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 Ulrich Middeldorf 
 

 
 801. An Italian Voyage, or a compleat journey through Italy, in two 
 parts, with the characters of the people and the description of the - 
 chief towns, churches, monasteries, tombs, libraries, etc., as also of 5 
 tne interest, government, riches, force, etc., of all the princes, with! 
 instructions concerning travel. By Richard Lasses, gent. The second] 
 edition, with large additions. Two parts in 1 vol., calf rebacked. Lon-] 
 don, 1698. $20.00 
 
 This is one of the earliest and most interesting English travel books to Italy. Lowndesj 
 III, 1314. 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 in 2015 
 
 
 
 https://archive.org/details/italianvoyageorcOOIass 
 
A N 
 
 Italian Voyage 
 
 O R, A 
 
 Compleat JOUR NET 
 
 THROUGH 
 
 I T A L 
 
 — . .-t __ 
 
 In Two Parts. 
 
 With the Characters of the People, and the 
 Defer iption of the Chief Towns, Churches, 
 Monafteries, Tombs, Libraries, Pallaces, Vil- 
 la’s, Gardens, Pictures, Statues and Antiquities. 
 
 AS ALSO, 
 
 Of the Intereft, Goverment, Riches, 
 Force, &c. of all the Princes. 
 
 With Inltru&ions' concerning T RAF EL. 
 
 By Richard Laffels, Gent, the Second Edition 
 with large Addition^, by a Modern hand. 
 
 l o. i<r d o N, 
 
 Printed for Richard Wellington , at the Lutz in St 
 Pad's ClWch-Yard,and B. Barnard Limott^zx 
 the Crofs-Keys , in St. Martins- Lane ^ near 
 Long* Acre. 1697. 
 
 \ 
 

A 
 
 l 
 
 v 
 
 PREFACE 
 
 TO THE 
 
 READE R. 
 
 CONCERNING 
 
 ^rebelling* 
 
 W HEN I firft fet Pen to Paper to 
 handle this fubject, I had not 
 the lead: thought of the Prefs ; 
 nor of erecting my felf into an Authour. I 
 only difcharged my memory haftily of 
 fome things which I had feen in Italy ; 
 and wrapt up that untimely Embryo in 
 five fheets of Paper, for the ufe of a No- 
 ble perfon, who fet me that Task. Yet 
 this Embryo liking the perfon for whom it 
 was conceived, obliged me to lick it o- 
 ver again, and bring it into better form. 
 Second thoughts, and fucceeding Voya- 
 ges into Italy, have finifbed it at lait, 
 and have made it what it is; A Compleat 
 Voyage, and an exact Itinerary through 
 Italy • ' . . 
 
 A And 
 
And ?, ere I thought to have drawn bri- 
 dle and veiled, after fo long a Journey * 
 when a arned Friend hav ; ng purufed 
 this my A aription of Italy, defired much 
 to fee a i ace to it cf my falhion, and 
 Concerning ! ' ravelling. I could refufe no- 
 thing to fuch a Friend ; and have done it 
 here willingly, both for my' own, andmy 
 Countries fake. 
 
 For my own fake ; to pre-excufe forne 
 things in my Book, which fome perchance 
 may diflike. 
 
 For fome, I fear will quarrel with my 
 English, and juftly, feeing three long Voy- 
 ages into Flanders, fix into France , five in- 
 to Italy, one into Germany and Holland, 
 have made me live half of my life-time in 
 Foreign Countries, to the difturbance of 
 my own Language : Yet, if I bring not 
 home fine Language, I bring home fine 
 Things ; and I haveleen great Ladies, both 
 in France and England, buy fine things of 
 Chirnney-fveepers and Pedlars , though they 
 fpake but courfe Lombard Language, and 
 grofs Scotch. 
 
 Others perchance will find fault, that I 
 write merrily fometimes : And why not ? 
 Seeing I write to young Men, and for 
 them; and mirth is never fo lawful! as in 
 '] 'ravelling: where it fhortens long miles, 
 and fweetens bad ufage ; that is, makes a 
 bad dinner go down, and a bad horfe go on. 
 
 Others 
 
Others will fay, That I fill my Book 
 with too much Latin : But thefe rauft be 
 minded, that I am writing of the Latin 
 Country ; and that I am carving for Scho- 
 lars, who can digeft folid bits, having 
 good ftomachs. 
 
 1 Others will fay, I jeer now and then : 
 And would any man have me go through 
 fo many divers Countries, and praife all I 
 fee ? Or in earneft, do not fome things 
 deferve to be jeered, when things cannot 
 be cured but by jeering : Jeering , faith 
 Tertullian , is a duty ; and I think the Cy- 
 nick Philofophers {truck as great a blow 
 at Vice, as the Stoicks . 
 
 Others will fay, I change ftyle often, 
 and fometimes run fmoothty, and fome- 
 times jokingly : True, I travelled not al- 
 ways upon fmooth ground, and pacing 
 horfes : SwiJJerland and Savoy are much 
 different from Campania and Lombardy ; and 
 it’s one thing to defcribe a Pleafant Gar- 
 'denrfindthdr thing tddefcribe a Venerable 
 Cathedral : and if in the one, and the other, 
 we have feveral looks, much more ought 
 we to have feveral words in defcribmg 
 them. 
 
 Others will fay, I affect a world of exo- 
 tick words not yet naturalized in England : 
 No, I affect them not ; I cannot avoid 
 them : for who can fpeak of Statues, but 
 he muff fpeak of Niches ; or of Churches , 
 
 A 2 
 
 Wrought 
 
Mr. W dr- 
 cup. 
 
 Mr. Fay- 
 znond . 
 
 Wrought Tombs , or in-laid Tables, but h® 
 mull fpeak of Cupola’s ; of bafio relie vo ; and 
 of pktre commeffe ? If any Man understand 
 them not, it’s his fault, not mine. 
 
 Others will fay, I hunt too much after \ 
 Ceremonies and Church-antiquities. No, 
 I only meet them. And as a man cannot 
 fpeak of Hercules, but he mull: fpeak of 
 Clubs, of Combats , of Labours and Victor tes : 
 fo I cannot fpeak of Rome as it is now, 
 but I muft fpeak of Relicks, Ceremonies and 
 Religion. Yeti believe, I give my Reader 
 no very unfinifh’d draught of prophane 
 Antiquities , Mafque taa.es. Shews, Drejjings 
 and Pajlimes, 
 
 Others, in fine, will fay, that I do but 
 a thing done already ; feeing others haye 
 Written of this Subject in Englijh. Well ; 
 if others have Written upon this fub- 
 jeft, why may not I ? They did the bell' 
 they could, I believe : but they di:ew not 
 up the Ladder after them. Some write 
 much of Italy, and fay little : And others 
 write little, and leave out much : I impute 
 to theses writing out of old. And if 
 thefe Ingenious Gentlemen have painted 
 out Italy in bujlo only, and profile : why 
 may not I endeavour to paint her out at 
 full face, and at her full length ? If they, 
 like ancient Statuaries, have reprefented 
 Italy unto us like a naked Image, I may 
 perhaps be allow’d to fay that I kaue fet 
 
 her 
 
her out in all her beft Attire and Jewels, 
 And thus much for my felf. 
 
 For my Country : To redd to my Coun- 
 try-men two profitable Lefions: The firft. 
 Of the Froft of Travelling : The fecond, 
 Of Travelling with Froft, 
 
 i. For the firll, to wit, the Profit of 
 Travelling ; it’s certain, that if this world 
 be a great Book , as St. Augufiline calls 
 none ftudy this great Book To much as the 
 Traveller. They that never ftir from . 
 home, read only one Page of this Book • 
 and, like the dull fellow in Pliny, who could 
 never learn to count farther than five, they 
 dwell always upon one LetTon. They are 
 like an acquaintance of mine, who had al- 
 ways a Book indeed lying open upon a 
 Desk ; but it was obferved that it lay al- 
 ways open at one and the fame place, and 
 by long cuftom, could lie open no where 
 elfe. He then that will know much out 
 of this great Book, the World, muft read 
 much in it : and as Vly files is let forth by 
 Homer as the wifeft of all the Grecians, be- 
 caufe he had travelled much, and had feen 
 multorum hominum mores & Tries, the 
 Cities and Cufiloms of many Men: So his Son 
 Telemachus is held for a very fhallow-wit- 
 ted man : and Homer gives the reafon, be- 
 caufe Ins Mother Penelope, inftead of fend- 
 ing him abroad to fee Foreign Countries, 
 had always kept him at home, and fomade 
 
 him 
 
nec. 
 
 him a meer Onocephalus and a homeling 
 Mammae uth. So true is the faying of <Sf- 
 neca, that, Imperitum eji animal homo , & 
 (ine magna experientia rerum , fi circumfcriba^ 
 tur Nat alii Jbli fine. 
 
 2. Travelling prefer ves my young No- 
 bleman from forfeiting of his Parents, and 
 weans him from the dangerous fondnefs of 
 his Mother. It teacheth him wholefome 
 hardfhip ; to lie in beds that are none of 
 his acquaintance ; to fpeak to men he ne- 
 • ver faw before ; to travel in the morning 
 before day ; and in the evening when ’us 
 dark, to endure any horfe and weather, as 
 well as any meat and drink. Whereas the 
 Country Gentleman that never T ravelled, 
 can fcarce go to London without making 
 his Will, at leaft without wetting his 
 Handkerchief. And what generous Mo- 
 ther will not fay to her fon with that An- 
 cient ; Niola tibi male efie y qt/am molliter : 
 I had rather thou fihouldfi be fick, than [oft ? 
 Indeed the Coral-Tree, is neither hard nor 
 red, till taken out of the Sea, its native 
 home. And I have read, that many of the 
 old Romans put out their Children to be 
 Nurfed abroad by Lacedemonian Nurfes, 
 till they were three years old ; then they 
 put them to their Uncles, till feven, or 
 ten ; then they fent them into Tofcany 
 to be inftructed in Religion ;and at iaft in- 
 to Greece to ftudy Philo fophy. 
 
 \ 
 
 3. Tra- 
 
g. Travelling takes my young Noble- 
 man four notches lower in his felflcon- 
 ceit and pride. For, whereas the Coun- 
 try Lord, that never faw any body but 
 his Fathers Tenants and Mr. Parfon ; and 
 never read any thing but John Story, and 
 Speed, thinks the Lands-end to be the 
 Worlds-end ; and that all folid greatnefs, 
 next unto a great Pafty, confilfs in a great 
 Fire, and a good Eftate. Whereas my 
 Travelling young Lord, who hathfeenfo 
 many greater Men and Eftates than his 
 own, comes home far more modeftand ci- 
 vil to his inferiours, and far lefs puft up 
 with the empty conceit of his own great- 
 nefs. Indeed nothing cured Aicibtades his 
 pride fo much as to fee in a Map (fhewed 
 him for the nonce by Socrates ) that his 
 Houfe and Lands, of which he was fo 
 proud, either appeared there not at all, or 
 only a little Spot or Dab ; and nemo in pu~ 
 fdlo magma. 
 
 4. Travelling takes off, in fome fort, that 
 aboriginal curfe, which was laid upon man- 
 . kind even almoft at the beginning of the 
 j World ; I mean, the confufion of Tongues : 
 i which is fuch a curfe indeed, that it makes 
 Men who are of one kind, and made to be 
 fociable, fo ftrangely to fly one another, 
 that as great S. Auftin faith, a Man had 
 rather be with his Dog, than with a Man 
 whofe Language he underflrands not. Nay, 
 
tills diverfity of Language, makes the 
 wifeft Man pafs for a Fool in a ftrange 
 Country, and the belt Man, for an excom- 
 municated Perfon, whofe Convention 
 all Men avoid. Now travelling tabes of 
 this curfe, and this moral excommunicati- 
 on ; by making us learn many languages, 
 and converfe freely with people of other 
 Countries. 
 
 5 . Travelling makes us acquainted with 
 a world of our kindred we never faw be- 
 fore, For, feeing we are all come from 
 one man at fil'd, and confequently all a-kin 
 to one another ; its but a reafonable thing, 
 that a Man fhould once at lead in his life- 
 time, make a Journey into Foreign Conn- j 
 tries, to fee his Relations, and vifit this j 
 kindred : having always this faying of : 
 young jofeph in his Mouth ; quaro fratres 
 meos. 
 
 6. Travelling enables a Man much for j 
 his Countries Service. It makes the Mer- 
 chant rich, by fhewing him what abounds, I 
 and wants in other Countries ; that fo' 
 he may know what to import, what to 
 export. It makes the Mechmick come 
 loadenhome with a world of experimental 
 knowledge for the improving of his 
 Trade. It makes the Field Officer , a 
 knowing Leader of an Army, by teaching 
 him where an Army in Foreign Coun- 
 tries, can march fecurely, pafs Rivers ea- 
 
fily, incamp fafely, avoid Ambufcadoes 
 and narrow paffages difcreetly, and re- 
 treat orderly. It makes the Common Sol- 
 dier play the Spy well, by making him 
 fpeak the Enemies Language perfectly, 
 that fo mingling with them, he may find 
 their defigns, and crofs their Plots. In 
 fine, it makes a Nobleman fit for the no- 
 bleft Employment ; that is, to be Ambafta- 
 dor abroad lor his King in Foreign Coun- 
 tries, and carry about with hint the King’s 
 Perfin, which he reprefents, and his King’s 
 Word, which he engageth. 
 
 7. Travelling brings a Man a world of 
 particular profits. It contents the Mind 
 with the rare difeourfes we hear from 
 Learned Men, as the Queen of Sheba was 
 ravifhed at the Wifdom of Solomon . It 
 makes an Ingenious Man much the wifer 
 by making him fee the good and the bid in 
 others. Hence the Wifeman faith ; Sa- 
 1 piens in ter ram alienigenarum gentium per- 
 trahjiet : bom enim & mala in hominibus 
 tentabit. It makes a Man think himfelf 
 at home every where , and fmile at 
 unjuft exile : It makes him welcome 
 home again to his Neighbours , fought af- 
 ter by his Betters , and liftened unto with 
 admiration by his Inferiours. It makes 
 him fit ftill in his ol d age with fatisfaftion; 
 and travel over the World again in his 
 Chair and Bed by difeourfe and thoughts. 
 
StraJa di* 
 mo fielg. 
 
 In fine, it’s an excellent Commentary upon 
 Hiitories ; and no Man underftands L?vy-. 
 and Cafar, Guicciardin and Monlac , like 
 him, who hath made exactly the Grand 
 Tour of France , and the Giro of Italy. 
 
 8. Travelling makes my young No- 
 bleman return home again to his Coun- 
 try like a bleffing Sun. For as the Sun, 
 who hath been Travelling about the 
 World thefe five thoufand and odd years, 
 not only enlightens thofe places which 
 he vifits, but alfo enricheth them with 
 all forts of Fruits and Metals : So, the 
 Nobleman by long travelling, having en- 
 lightened his underftanding with .fine 
 notions, comes home like a glorious Sun , 
 and doth not only fhine bright in the 
 Firmament of his Country, the Parlia- 
 ment -Floufe ; but alfo bleffeth his inferi- 
 ours with the powerfull influence if his 
 knowing Spirit. 
 
 q. In fine, Examples (the beft Philofo- 
 phy) fhew us, that the greateft Princes 
 Europe hath feen, thefe many years, to 
 wit, Charles the V. and the Kjng of 
 Sweeden, Guflavus Adolphus , were both of 
 them great Travellers ; thefirft had been 
 twice in England , as often in rffrick, four 
 times in France , fix times in Spain , fe- 
 ven times in Italy , and nine into Germa- 
 ny : The fecond had travelled incognito 
 (asM, Watts writes of him) into Holland, 
 France, 
 
France, Italy and Germany , in his youth; 
 which made him fay afterwards to the 
 French Amhajfador Marefchal Breze , in a 
 kind of threatning way, that he knew 
 the way to Paris , as well as to Stockholme. 
 
 Add to this, that the wifeft and greateft 
 among the ancient Philofophers , Plato, Py- 
 thagoras, Anaxagoras , Anacharfts, Appollo- 
 nius, Ar chit as, and Pittacus , (which laft 
 left his fupream Command of Mytelen to 
 travel) were all great travellers ; and that 
 St. Hierom (who being no ’Bifhop, and 
 confequently not obliged to refidence) ha- 
 ving travelled into France , Italy, Greece, 
 and the Holy Land, purchafed to himfelf 
 fuch rare acquifitions of Learning by his 
 ! Travels and Languages, that among all 
 the ancient Fathers and Doftors, the 
 Church in her Collect on his day, calls 
 him only, DoBorem maximum ', the great- 
 eft DoBor. And fo much for the profit 
 of Travelling. 1 
 
 Now for as much as concerns the fe- 
 cond Lefton, to wit, The Travelling with TteTrayeU 
 Profit, divers things are to be taken notice 
 of ; fome by the Parents or Guardians of 
 thofethat travel ; others by the Travellers 
 themfelves. 
 
 As for the Parents their greateft care 
 ! ought to be of providing their Children 
 (I ipeak to Men of high condition) a good 
 Governour, to travel with them, and have 
 \ a 
 
a care of their Perfons and breeding : that 
 is, piay the part of the Archangel Raphael 
 to young Toby, and Lead them fafe a- 
 broad , and bring them fafe home : Ego Ja- 
 num ducam & reducam f Ilium tuum. Tob . 
 gy.v.70. And here I could wifh indeed 
 that Parents could be as happy in their 
 choice, and find Men Angels for Gover- 
 nours to their Children, upon condition 
 they fhould requite them, as young 1 'oby 
 offered to requite the Archangel his Go- 
 vernour, whom he took to be a Man. For : 
 the education of Children is a thing of 
 that high concern to the Commonwealth, 
 that in this, Parents fhould fpare no coft 
 whatfoever ; but rather imitate the old 
 Lacedemonians-, who took more care of 
 their Youth, than of any thing elfe in their 
 Commonwealth. Infomuch, that when 
 Amigonus asked of them fifty young 
 Youths for Hoftages, they anfwered him, 
 that they had rather give him twice as 
 many made Men. Seeing then young 
 youths are the future hopes of Famalies 
 and Commonwealths , their education 
 ought not to be committed but to Men 
 of' great Parts and excellent Breeding. 
 For I have always thought, that a young 
 Noblemans Train ought to be like his 
 Cloths, His Lacqueys and Footmen are 
 like his Galofhoos, which he leaves at the 1 
 door of thofe he Vifits : His Valets de 
 
 Ch ombre 
 
Chdmbre , are like his Night-Gown, which 
 lie never .ufeth but in his Chamber ; and 
 leaves them there when he goes in Vifits; 
 His Gentleman Attendants are like his 
 feveral rich Suits, which he wears not all 
 at once, but now one, now another, and 
 fometirnes none at all of them : His Groom 
 is like his Riding-Cloak, and never ap- 
 pears .near him but upon the Road : But 
 his Governour is like his. Shirt, which is 
 always next unto his Skin and Perfon ; 
 and therefore as young Noblemen are cu- 
 rious to have their Shirts of the fineft Li- 
 nen : fo fhould they have their Cover- 
 nours of the fineft thread, and the beft 
 fpun Men that can be found. Hence the 
 Ancients, as they were careful in honou- 
 ring the Memory of thofe that had been 
 Governours to great Heroes, as of Chiron , 
 Governour of Hercules , Jafon, Paris , A- 
 ' chilles , and other brave Heroes ; Mifcus 
 ! Governour of Vlyfies ; Eudorus of Patro - 
 r dus ; Dares of Hector ; Epitides of Julus ; 
 >1 Cmnidas of Thefeus ; all of them choice 
 men: So they were for choofing.the fineft 
 men for that great Employment, to be 
 Q :heir Childrens Governours ; that is in their 
 jj Language, Cuflodes v & comiter juventutis 
 0 Principum & mxgnatum . For not every 
 iS loneft and .vermous Man (as feme Parents 
 e :hink) is fit for this Employment : Thofe 
 parts indeed would do well in a Steward 
 
 « ' * - • X 
 
The 
 
 raft?' of 
 good Go- 
 vernor. 
 
 and a Solicitor ; but many things elfe, be- 
 « fides thefe, rauft concur to make up a 
 good Governour. I would have him then 
 to be not only a Vertuous Man, but a 
 Vinuofo too, not only an honeft Man, 
 but a Man of honour too : not only a 
 Gentleman born, but a gentile Man alfo 
 by breeding : a Man not only comely ot 
 perfon by nature ; but gracefull alfo by 
 art in his Garbs and Behaviour ; a good 
 Scholar, but no meer Scholar : a Man that 
 hath travelled much in Foreign Coun- 
 tries, but yet no fickle-headed Man ; a 
 Man of a ftout Spirit, but yet of a ditcrefet 
 Tongue, and who knows rather to wave . 
 quarrels prudently , than to maintain . 
 them floutly ; a Man cheerhill in con- 
 verfation, yet fearfull to offend others ; 
 a Man of that Prudence, as to teach his 
 Pupil rather to be wife than witty ; and 
 cf that Example of life, that his deeds 
 may make Ins Pupil believe his woids . 
 n fine, I would have him to be an En- 
 ziiflman, no Stranger. I fpeak not tins 
 out of an envy to Strangers, but out of 
 aiove to my own Country-men. For ! 
 have known divers Englfjb Gents emen 
 much wronged abroad by their Govei- 
 i -ours that were Strangers. Some I have 
 known that led their Pupil to Geneva , ( 
 where they got fome French Language, 
 
 but loll: all their true Engl/fo Allegiance * 
 
 and i 
 
arid refpect to Monarchy ; others I have 
 known, who, being married and having 
 their fettlements and intereft lying a"t 
 S aumur^ kept young Gentlemen there 
 all the time they were abroad ; and made 
 their Parents in England believe, that all 
 good breeding was ill that poor Town 
 Where their Wives were breeding Chil- 
 dren. Others, I have known, who ha- 
 ving their Miftreffes in the Country, per- 
 i waded their young Pupils, Men of great 
 Biitn, that it was fine living in a Country 
 Houfe, tnat is fine carrying a Gun upon 
 their necks and walking a foot : Others 
 bee » obferved to fell thir Pupils to 
 Malters ofExercifes, and to have made ’em 
 elieve that the worft Academies were 
 tne belt, becaufe they were the beft to the 
 cunn ; ng Governour, who had ten pound a 
 Man for every one he could draw thither : 
 Otners I have known who would, have 
 married their Pupils in Francs , without 
 their Parents knowledge ; and have facri- 
 ficed their great Truif, to their fordid Ava- 
 nce : Others I have known who have 
 locked their Pupils in a Chamber with a 
 Wanton Woman, and taken the Key awav 
 Nay, thislcan fay more, that 
 or all thofe Strangers that I have known 
 Governors to young Noblemen of Eng- 
 land (and I have known feven or eight) 
 
 I never knew one of them to be a Gen- 
 
 a 
 
 2 
 
tkman born ; but for themoft part, they 
 were needy bold Men, whofe chief parts 
 
 were nt'cuy r r 
 
 were, the'.r own Language and lorn e La- 
 tin \ and whofe chief aim was, to lerve 
 themlelves, not their Pup , Is. 
 
 But to return again to our Subject ; the 
 Parent having found out fuch a Gover- 
 nor for h.:; Son, as we have defcribed 
 here ah ve, he rnuft refign over unto him 
 his full Authority, and command his Son 
 to obey him •• otherwifelct the Governour 
 be the wifeft and the moft Compleat 
 Man in the World, if bis Pupil do not o- 5 
 bey him, and follow liis Gounfel, all will 
 (to wroiw. I have feen eat difoi dci s 
 befal for want of tins. • Hence f have 
 often thought of great Clemens Alexan- 
 dria, who faith wifely , That out Saw- 
 car Chrift is the only true Preceptor Or 
 Governour, becaufe he cannot only give 
 the heft Inftru&jons to young Men, but 
 alfo can give them grace to execute thole i 
 infer, iTons ; whereas other Governoursj 
 (Cafftmra like) telling tlieir Pupils many 
 excellent Truths, are not believed by 
 them nor can they, force their incli- 
 . nations to execute them, except the l a- 
 rents commands come in to their aiiilt- 
 ancs • and it isbutreafonable, that as Go- 
 vernours are the Seconds or Parents, in t.re 
 breeding of their Children, fo Patents 
 
 ihould iecond Governouis too, 
 
 in making 
 then 
 
their Children obey them; And f o much 
 for the Parents Care. 
 
 For the Son’s Care, it muft be this. 
 Firft to take a view of England before he 
 enter into Foreign Countries. This will 
 enure him to travel, to fee company, to 
 obferve Towns and Rarities, and fharpen 
 his appetite for Foreign Curiofities. I 
 would wifh him withal in travelling o~ 
 ver England, to fall in, as often as’ he can, 
 with the Judges in their Circuits, not 
 only to fee how his Country is Governed 
 in point of judicature ; but alio to fee the 
 Gentry of feveral Countries, who flock 
 to great Towns in the Affize week. It 
 would be alfo profitable to him, to caft 
 to be at all the chief Horfe-races, where 
 he will eafily fee al fo the Gentry of the fe- 
 veral. Counties in a compendiousView. Ha- 
 ving thus feen his own Country in a Sum- 
 mers fpace, and having got his Majefties 
 Licence to travel beyond the Seas (in 
 which Licence I would wifh this claufe 
 were inferred, That all young Gentlemen 
 fhould, at their return, pref exit tiiemlelves 
 to hisMajelly, to give him an Account 
 of their Travels and Obfervations) I 
 would have him depart England about the 
 beginning of October. 
 
 2. At his going out of England, let 
 him take his right aim ; that is, let him 
 
his pleafuresonlv. 1 have known many 
 ‘Etiglfjhmen , who for want of fight aim- 
 ing, ha ve miffed the white of Breeding, 
 whole Heavens breadth. For fome in 
 travelling, aim at nothing but to get 
 loofe from their Parents, or Schoohnafters, 
 and to have the fingering of a pretty Al- 
 lowance ; and thefe Men, when they come 
 into France, care for feeing no Court, 
 but the Tennis-Court ; delight in feeing 
 no Balls but Tennis-Balls ; and forfake 
 any Company, to tofs whole days toge- 
 ther with a tattered Marker in the Tripot. 
 
 Others defire to go into Italy, only be- 
 faufe they hear there are fine Courtifans 
 in Venice ; and as the Queen of the A- 
 mazons , in j Utjtin, went thirteen days 
 Journey out of her Country, only to have 
 a Nights Lodging with Alexander the 
 Great ; fo thefe Men travel a whole month 
 together to Venice, fora Nights Lodging 
 with an impudent Woman. And thus 
 by a falfe aiming at breeding abroad, they 
 return with thofe Difeafes which hinder 
 them from breeding at home. 
 
 Others travel abroad, as our Ship-Boys 
 do into the Indies : for whiles thefe Boys' 
 might bring home Jewels, Pearls, and 
 many other things of value, they bring 
 home nothing but Firecanes, Parots, and 
 Monkeys ; fo our young T raveilers, whiles 
 they might bring home many rich obfer- 
 
 rations, 
 
I vations, for the Governing themfelves, 
 and others, bring home nothing but Fire- 
 canes, that is a hotfpur humour, that takes 
 Fire at every word, and talk of nothing , 
 but Duels, Seconds, and Elclairciffements ; 
 or elfe Parots, that is, come loaden home 
 with Ribons and Feathers of all Colours 
 like Parots, and with a few borrowed 
 Complements in their Mouths, which 
 s make them talk like Parots, or elfe Mon- 
 keys, that is fome afteded Cringes, Shrugs, 
 and fuch like Apiih Behaviour. 
 
 3. At his embarking let him have a fpe- 
 cia! care not to carry himfelf abroad with 
 himfelf in travelling ; Many Men^ faith 
 Seneca^ return home no better than they 
 went out, becaufe they take themfelves 
 along with themfelves in Travelling : and 
 as a Man in a Fever, finds himfelf no 
 better than he was, by changing his Bed, 
 ►becaufe he carries his Fever with him 
 wherefoever h.e lies : fo many young Men 
 return home tired and dirtied, but not 
 better and wiier, becaufe they carried a- 
 broad their bad Cuftoms and Manners 
 with them. I would then that my young 
 Traveller fhould leave behind him ail wir* 
 fulnefs and ftubbornefs all tendernefs, 
 and feeking his cafe too much ; all effemi- 
 natenefs and delicatenefs ; all Boyifh 
 Tricks with Hands or Alouth, and mock- 
 iftg of others ; all delight of bdngaccoun- 
 
 a 4 ted 
 
ted beft Man in the Company ; ' all laming^ ' | 
 •nty with Servants, and mean Men ; all [ 
 Taverns, and intemperancy of eating and 
 drinking ; having that faying of Seneca 
 often in his mouth and mind ; Major fum 
 dr ad major a natut, auam ut manic if i am 
 (im carports mei ; I am a greater Man and born j 
 to greater things, than that 1 jhould yield 
 my plf a flave to my Body . In line, I 
 would have him imitate that young Gen- 
 tleman of whom S. Ambrofe fpeaks ; who 
 returning home from Foreign Travels, 
 and meeting with his old 'Mi ft refs, a 
 Wanton Woman, feemed not to know 
 her ; whereat jlie wmndring, told him 
 that hie was fuch an one ; it may 
 be fo, laid he, but I am no more L A 
 rare Apothegm • which I would wifti 
 my young Traveller to take for his Mot- 
 to, as well as this young Man for his Ex- 
 ample. 
 
 4. Being thus got out of England , its L 
 a great queftion into what Country he 
 Jhould firit go, to make his aboad. The 
 common cpurfe is, to go firft into France, 
 and then into Italy , and fo home by Ger- 
 many, Holland and Flanders , as I did once : 
 but my opinion is, that it’s better for a 
 Young Man to go ftrft into Italy, and re- j 
 turning by Germany, Holland and Flanders , 
 come into France, to give himfelf there 
 : :ie laft hand in breeding. And my rew 
 
ion is this ; For feeing the intention of 
 Travelling is to make a Man a wife 
 Man, not a finical Man, it’s better to fea- 
 ion his mind betimes with a ftaid wife 
 Breeding, than to fill it up to the brim at 
 firft with a phantaftical giddinefs, which 
 having once gotten poffefiion of the mind, 
 bolts the doors on the infide, locks out 
 all forms of fettled Reafoning, and makes 
 my young man delight in nothing but Va- 
 nity, Cloths, Dancing, Liveries, Balls, 
 and fuch meer outfides : I would there- 
 fore have my young Nobleman’s Gover- 
 nor to carry him immediately into Italy 
 at fifteen or fixteen, and there feafon 
 his mind with the gravity and wife 
 maximes of that Nation, which hath civi- 
 lized the whole world, and taught mankind 
 what it is to be a Man. Having fpenttwo 
 or three years in Italy in learning the Lan- 
 guage, viewing the feveral Courts, ftudying 
 their Maxims, imitating their Gentile Con- 
 verfation, and following the fweetExerci * 
 fes of Mufick, Painting, Architecture, and 
 Mathematicks , he will at his return 
 know what true ufe to make of France. 
 And having fpent three years more there, 
 in Learning to Fence, Dance, Ride, Vault, 
 Handle his Pike, Musket, Colours, &c. the 
 Map, Kiftory, and Books of Policy; he 
 will be ready to come home at twenty 
 or one and twenty, a Man molt com pleat 
 
 both 
 
Wh& t9 b 
 harm m 
 France^ 
 mi w& xt 
 
 111: a t in I 
 taly, and 
 what net. 
 
 both in Body and Mind, and fit to fill the 
 place of his Calling. 
 
 r 5.I lay, Make true ufe 0^ France. For 
 I would not have my young Traveller 
 imitate all things he fee's done in France , 
 or other Foreign Countries ; I would 
 have him learn of the French a handfome 
 confidence; but not an impudent boldnefs. 
 He muft learn of them to come into a 
 Room with a Bonne mine ; but not to rufh 
 into a Mans Chamber, as they do, with* 
 out lb much' as knockingat the Door. He 
 muft learn of them to dance well, to get 
 a good Grace in walking and laluting, 
 as they do ; but he muft not dance as 
 he 'walks as many of them do. He muft 
 learn of the French, to become any Clothes . 
 well; but he muft not follow them in 
 all their Phantaftical and fanfaron Clo- 
 things. He muft learn to fence well, as 
 they clo ; but I would have his Sword flick 
 fafter in the icabbard than theirs ufually do. 
 
 In fine, I would have him open, airy, and 
 gallant as they are ; but not affefting to be 
 the Gallants of all Ladies, as they do. 
 
 So in Italy , I would have him learn to 
 make a fine Houle ; but I would not have 
 him learn of the Italians to keep a good 
 Houfe, He may learn of them to be Sober 
 and Wife ; but I would not have him 
 learn of them to be jealous and diftruftfuh 
 I would have him learn of the Italians, 
 
 to 
 
o receive thofe that vifit him with great 
 Civility and Refpeft ; but I would not 
 have him ftand upon all their little Forms 
 and incommodious Punctilio’s I would 
 have him to be free of his Hat, as they • 
 are, but I would have the Heart to go 
 to the Flat as well as the Hand, and his in- 
 clination to be concern’d in the Comple- 
 ment. 
 
 In Germany, I would have him learn to M** ™ 
 offer a Man a Cup of Wine at his coming 
 in ; but I would not have him prefs fo not. 
 much Wine upon him, as he lhall not be 
 able to go out again, as they often do. I 
 would have him learn of them to go freely 
 to War for the defence of his Country ; 
 but I would not have him learn the 
 cuftom of thofe vendible fouls there, who 
 carry their lives to Market, and ferve 
 any Prince for Money. Hike well their fha- 
 king hands with you, when you fir ft enter 
 into their houfes ; but I like not their quar- 
 relling with you for not pledging a health 
 ; of a yard long, which would ruin yours. I 
 like very much their finguiar modefty and 
 chaftity, which allows not baftards to be 
 free men of themoft ordinary trades ; but 
 I like not their endlefs drinking in feafts, 
 which is able to make them freemen of 
 all vices. 
 
 In 
 
Whitt in 
 Holland, 
 
 and rvhtt 
 xokm 
 
 In Holland aifo I would have him ham 
 to keep his houfe and hearth rieat ; but I 
 would not have him adore his houfe, and 
 ftand in l'uch a we of his hearth, as not to 
 dare to make 4 fire in it, as they do. I 
 would have him learn of them a fpare di- 
 et • but I would not have him drink fo’ 
 much, as would keep him both in good di- 
 et and cloths, as they do. I would have 
 him learn of them their great I ml li- 
 ft ry ancl Oeconomy ; but not their 
 rude exacting upon Noblemen Strangers 
 m their Inns, for their Qualities fake only, 
 as they do. I would have him learn of J 
 them a lingular love to his Country ; hut 
 he mud take heed of their clownilh 'ha- 
 tred of Nobility. Thus in all Countries I j 
 would have' illy young Traveller do, as * 
 men do at a great Feaft, where there is no 
 tear of ftarvi'ng ; that is, not eat greedily 
 Of all that’s before' him, but fall to the 
 Bell: Meats, and leave the word for the 
 Waiters. 
 
 6. That he may follow the forefaid 
 Rule the better, and pick out of every 
 Country what’s the bed in it, let his Go- 
 vernour lead him betimes into the bed 
 Company, for there the bed LefTons are 
 yo. be learned. Now by the word 
 beft, I ‘do not mean the greated Men in 
 Birth, but in parts. For the w'orld is not fo 
 happy, as that the greated Men are always 
 
the beft : but by the word befit I mean 
 thofe that are the wifeft, the beft bred, 
 the beft principled, the beft behaved, and 
 the moft cryed up by civil Perfons : for 
 of fuch Men much is to be learned : Then- 
 life is a perpetual Lecture ; their words 
 fp many Oracles ; their difcourfes fo many 
 wife Maxims : and though young Men 
 be not able to bring their difh with them 
 and club wit equally with thefe Men, yet 
 it’s a great matter to fit ftill in their Com- 
 pany, and be a refpeQful Catechumen 
 to them. For if it be true which Qiiin- 
 tilian faith of thofe that love Cicero, Ci~ 
 ctronem amajfe, profecijfe ejl , it’s alfo molt 
 certain, that a Man that loves good Com- 
 pany, mull be good himfelf in time. 
 
 7. And that he may be able toappear 
 in good Company without blufhing, lhs 
 Governour muft get him, asfoon as he can, 
 to fpeak the Language of the place in hand* 
 fome terms, and with a good accent. Next 
 he muft have a care that he be well adju- 
 fted and fet out in apparel : For if ancient- 
 ly Jewels were called the Ufhers of. Ladies, 
 becaufe all Doors flew open to them 
 .that prefented themfelves fo richly ador- 
 ned ; fo now a-days good Clothes may be 
 called Mens Ufhers, feeing they make 
 way for them into all Companies. He 
 muft have a care that he know his Con- 
 gies perfectly, and have a free Garb or 
 
 Car- 
 
Carriage, a Cavalier way of entering into 
 a Room ; a gratefull managing of his 
 mouth and fmiles ; a chironomy or decent 
 afting with his hands, which may humor 
 his words gravely and freely, vet not af- 
 lectedly or mimically : hi fine, a liberty or 
 freedom in all his actions, which the 
 French cz\\ liberte da corps ; and it mu ft ap- 
 pear to be a la negligence , and yet muft be 
 perfectly ftudied aforehand. And though 
 theie things be but the Elements and Al- 
 phabet of breeding, yet without them he 
 can never fpell Gentleman rightly, though 
 his infide be never fo good. Indeed iris 
 long ago tnat great Men dwelt no more 
 in thatched Houfes. 
 
 8. But it is not enough to get him into 
 Language and Garbs, if he get him not 
 into Coach and Liveries, without which 
 lie can never appear at Court, or in good' 
 Company, efpecially in Rome and Paris, 
 the two chief Towns of long abode a- 
 broad. For let a man be of a Race as ancient 
 Plutarch. as the Autoclhenes of Athens ; w hoi laid they 
 were as ancient as the Earth ; and let him 
 quarter his coat of Arms with the three 
 Lyons of England , and the three Flower - 
 de-lys of France , as I know a Gentleman of 
 I .it tie Brit any doth, (by the grant ancient- 
 ly of both thofe Kings) yet I dare boldly 
 lay this, that in Paris no colours blazon 
 a Mans nobility behind his Coach fomuch 
 
 as 
 
as three Lacqueys and a Page, in a hand- 
 fome Livery. In other Towns of France, 
 where young Gentlemen ufed to live at 
 firft, till they get the Language, a couple 
 of faddle horfes would be very ufeful, both 
 to take the air on, asalfo to vifit the Gen- 
 try in the Country at their Summer Hou- 
 fes, where a Man will find great Civilities 
 and Divertifements. Befides, riding out 
 foin the freih evenings of Summer, will 
 not only wean my young Gentleman from 
 little Company, and the crowd of his 
 Countrymen, who will be then preffing 
 upon him ; but will alfo afford his Gover- 
 nour many fine folitary occafions of plying 
 him alone with good Counfels and In- 
 ftruftions. 
 
 9. And feeing I have touched fomething 
 before of his Servants and Lacqueys, I will 
 add this, That feeing it is none of the 
 leaft bleffings of a young Gentleman 
 to have good Servants about him, it be- 
 longs to his Governour, not only to choofe 
 him flood ones, but alio to have power 
 to turn away bad ones. Many Men carry 
 over with them Englijh Servants, becaufe 
 they were their School-fellows, or their 
 Tenants Sons ; and thefe are of little ufe 
 for a long time, and even then when a 
 Man hath molt need of Servants. Befides, 
 they are often too familiar with their Ma- 
 ilers, their old Play-fellows ; and as often 
 
 trouble- 
 
troublefome to their Governors by taking their ybung 
 Mailers part againfl them ^ ana by ravelling out at 
 night, as they get their Mailers to bed, all that the 
 prudent Governor hath bfcen working in the day time. 
 Others carry over Frenchmen with them : but thefe 
 often, byreafon of their prerogative of Language, 
 which their Mafters want at firit, get fuch an afcen- 
 dent over them, that they come often -times to be 
 bold and fawcy with them. For my part, I would 
 have his Governor to take him new Servants in every 
 place he comes to Hay and thofe lightly, rather than 
 too fprightly Youths.: Dull people are made, to tug 
 at the Oar of Obedience, faith Anfiotle whilit wit- 
 ty People are fitter to fit at the Helm of Command. 
 
 But then, a Governor ought to take good fecurity 
 that fuch Servants become faithfull, and impofe not- 
 on his Mailer, or betray him in any thing to his 
 Countrymen, amongil whom he is a ilranger : For 
 Travellers above all others find it true, that Front] 
 nulla Fide. 
 
 io. But I am to blame to give advice to Governors 
 whom I fuppofe tobewifer Men than my felf^ and 
 therefore Will end here, by wifiiing them a good jour- 
 ney and fafe return : To the effecting of both which 
 I found no better Secret, than that in my lail journey 
 which was to be mounted upon our own Horfes (five 
 of us together) andjto fpare for no coil : For by this 
 means we went at our own rates, and eat to our own 
 minds : fo true is the Italian Proverb, Pic ole giorndtc $ 
 ^randi fpefe , ti conducono fanp al tno paefe. 
 
 In fine, I would have my young Traveller make ... 
 the fame prayer to God, as Apollon iusThyarmis made 
 to the Sun at his going out to Travel, that is. That 
 he would be fo favourable to him, as to ihew him all 
 the braveil and beil Men in the World, 
 
 A 
 
C * 3 
 
 A 
 
 VOYAGE 
 
 B Efore I come to a particular defcription 
 of Italy, as l found it in my Five fe- 
 veral Voyages through it, I think it 
 pot amifs to fpeak fomethingin gene- 
 ral of the Country it felf, its Inhabitants, their 
 Humours, Manners, Cuftoms, Riches, and 
 Rejigion. 
 
 For the Country it felf, it feemed to me to be The Fertility 
 Nature's DarlingfxA the El deft Sifter of all other °/ Ital y* 
 Countries *, carrying away from them all the 
 greateft bkffmgs and favours, and receiving 
 
 T O 
 
 PART L 
 
 B 
 
 fuch 
 
2 3 SlOptlgC to I T A L Y, Part X; 
 
 fuch gracious looks from the Sun and Heaven^ 
 that If there be any fault in Italy, it is, that her 
 Mother Nature hz th indulged her even to wan- 
 tonnefs - Witnefs luxuriant Lombardy and Cam - 
 fmid antonomaftically Fcehx, which Floras, Tro - j 
 and Livy , think to be the belt parts of the j 
 World, where CVm and Bacchus are at a perpe- | 
 tual ftrife, whether of them fhall court Man 
 the moll: fhe by filling his Barns with Corn* 
 
 he by making his Cellars fwim with Wine : 
 \¥hilft the other parts of Italy 'me fw eating , 
 out whole For efts of Olive-Trees, whole Woods , 
 of L emons and Granges, whole Fields of Rice, ! 
 R urky Wheat, and Muskmillions and where 
 thofe bare Hills, which feem to have been 
 fhaven by the Sun, and to have curfed Nature 
 - for their Barrencefs, are oftentimes impreg- 
 nated with Marbles, that become the Orna- 
 ments of Churches and Palaces, and the Re- ; 
 venues of Print es : witnefs the Prince of Majfa, '■ 
 whofe great Riches are his Marble Quarries : . 
 Nature here thinking it a far more noble thing 
 to feed Princes, than to feed Sheep. It abounds 
 slfo in Silk-worms, out of which they draw 
 great Profit : And for the fupport of thefe lit- 
 tic Republicks, one may fee with what care 
 they nurfe innumerable Groves of Mulbery- 
 Trees, on whofe leaves they feed. The cu- 
 rious Work that is made by thofe Worms, is 
 none of the leaft of the Wonders of Nature * 
 which tho an Excrement of theirs, yet ferv ing ! 
 oftentimes to our Pride, as well as to our necef- ■ f 
 fary ufe ^ and in both for our Apparel : It 
 may be laid, of ns, that our Clothing is Hill •' 
 like that of our firft Parents - 7 or at leaft but one * 
 
 remove 
 
Part I. a CJiJpffe to I T A L Y. 
 
 remove from Leaves. It’s rich alfoinP^- 
 rage and Cattle , efpecially in Lombardy y where 
 I have feen Cheefes of an exceffive greatnefs 
 and of a Parmefan goodnefs. The furface 
 alio of the Earth is covered with many curi- 
 ous Simples and wholefome Herbs : Hence fo 
 many rare Elferices, Cordials, Perfumes, Sweet 
 Water, and other Odoriferous Diftillations 
 fo common here, that Ordinary Barbers and 
 Laundrefles will fprinkle them in your Face 
 and perfume your Linnen with them over and 
 above your bargain. Hence none of the mean- 
 If. c ° be £ een ln J**ln arc the Fondaries or Stil- 
 ling-Houfes of the Great Duke of Florence the 
 sectary or Apothecaries Shops of the Domini* 
 
 F# °\ St - Marco , and of the Auguftfos of St: 
 
 Spit ito in Florence y of tne Roman College , and of 
 the M mimes pi Trinita de Monte in Rome •’ where 
 even death it felf would find a cure in Nature 
 nad not her great Creator otherwife determi- 
 mined , when by the Sin of mankind, he was 
 provoked to pronounce a Cnrfe on Nature’s 
 .e!f In fine, it excels in all kind of Provilions 
 either for dyet or fport • and. I have feen in 
 Rome vvnole cartloads of Wild Hoars and Veni- 
 on brought in at once to be fold in the Mar- 
 ket- and above threefcore Hares in Florence 
 >rought in, in one day, by the two Compa- 
 nes of Hunters, the Fiacevoli and Piatelli on 
 ii general Hunting day. ’ 
 
 ■\ eC . after all this, fome cry out againft Italy 
 or being too hot ■ and pain* us out its Air as > 
 n unwholefom Peftilential Air - its Sun, as iton^ 
 
 n^nngry Comet, whofe beams are all pointed gLmfl 
 m 1 and Fevers, and the Country it 
 
 B 2 
 
 
& JiCpage ta I T ALT. Parti 
 
 Jnfwer. 
 
 mf as a place where ftarving is the only way 
 
 to live in health, where Men eat by Method 
 and Art i where you muft carry your body 
 lteadily,or elfe fpill your life- and where there 
 are fo many Provincial Sitknefics and Difeafes; 
 as the Catarrhs of Genoa, the Gout of Milan, 
 the Hamerrhoids of Venice, the Falling Sicknejs 
 of Florence , the Fevers of Rome, and the Goijtre 
 
 of Piedmont, > , 
 
 For my part, when I am told, that there 
 
 were inf-Ws timeiourteen millions of Men m 
 
 / „ i * .1 nAur nhAUP 
 
 dierd /. 1 1 
 
 c, 1 1 
 
 Fritter Italy v when I read that there are now above 
 Bovifacitts three thoufand Cities in Italy , ana nimt ot 
 hlll ; lu them Cities of Garbo : when 1 meet with Na- 
 tional DiSeafes in ever v other Country, as the 
 Kin as-Evil in Spain, the Fox in -France, the 
 Cork umvt ion in Portugal , the C click in England , 
 the Dy fernery in Gafcony, the Hekd-ach in |Ton 
 lonfe , (Sc. when I refleft how this Sim hath blel- 
 fed Lombardy , and made Campania Happy: 
 when i call to mind, that it hath filled the 
 Cellars of Italy with above Thirty ievera. -orts j 
 of Wines : when I -remember what Health it . - 
 hath poured into feveral Herbs here, what ad- 
 mirable Fruits it furnifheth the Markets withal, 
 what Ornaments it- affords to Gods Houles, 
 crofting alraoft all the chief Churches lot Italy 
 with fair marbles : when I confider, in hne,how . > 
 this Sun hath helpt to makefo many >’'aycSol- - 
 diers and Scholars, I dare not fpeak ill ot the 
 
 Scl&ko- 
 
 UiClb M tiC-o * J I 
 
 mg T ; Sun or Jir Of Italy, left Balzsc check me as 
 ratkom - Zuchus did him who fpoke iU of his Mother, 
 
 Mica w frit die its i cjnd Tiber utn\ 
 
 77 j n. 
 
 riutarchts with a 77/ Ma.. , , i, r .1 I 
 
 i? Graccio (jracchum genm ? Van ft thou fie ait ill of 
 
 w Siva which help to make Cafar ? { 
 
 Vter, 
 
 i.vol 
 
Part I. a Ctopage to I T A L Y. 5 
 
 If this great blefling of God, this warm Sim, LG r,:h. 
 which hath fo throughly baked th s Italian Wits, 
 that while ( according to the observation 
 Charles the V. ) the French appear not wife/ 
 but are wife * the Spaniards appear wife, bus: 
 are not wife-theX?/#^ neither appear wife nor 
 are wife. Hence the Italians anciently afforded 
 us thofe prodigies of Wit and Learning, and- 
 fet us thofe fair Copies in Liberal Arts and 
 Sciences, which all men would follow, bur. 
 none attain to fo much as the Italians them- 
 ifelves. 
 
 In fine, it cannot be faid that any Country 
 in the world did ever produce fo many learn- 
 ed Men and Heroes as this : For ’twas here that 
 the renowned Philofophers Pliny, Cato and 
 Seneca fiourilhed, as well as the famous Ora- 
 tors Cicero, Horten fins, Portias, Latro, Gimius, 
 
 , Gallio, Milius, F ufc us. and Antonins the great 
 Hiftorians Livy, Tacitus, Valerius Maximus, 
 
 Salkfi •, the delicate Poets, Virgil, Lucretius, O- 
 . vid, Catullus, Tibullus and Propertius: The fam’d 
 Saty rifts, Horace , Juvenal and Perfius : The no- 
 ble Comedians PUutus andTrrm-^with infinite 
 others. In the la ft Ages, file bieft mankind 
 with thofe great Divines Tho. Aquinas, BtiUrmin 
 and Baronins add taught us to know the har- 
 mony of her Language, by the fweemefs of 
 the Oratory of the learned Pamgarvhts, Man- 
 zini, Varchi and Loredano : The Tliftorians, 
 that made themfeives to be taken notice of as 
 excellent Perfons and learned Men, were 
 G nicciardine, Bentivoglio , Davila and Strada . Pi- 
 cas Mirandula , Volateranus and Rudolph us gave 
 Rules of Humanity to her improving and am- 
 
6 a (Uopage to I T A L Y. Part l. 
 
 bit ions Youth : Ficinus and Cardan became her 
 Philofophers } Tajfo , S anaz.arimMay inOyVetrarch 
 and Guarini were her Poets And for Archite&s 
 and Statuaries fhe boafts Brunallcfchi , Palladio , 
 Fontana •* Olivcrio and Bernini have been excel- 
 lent in Sculpture .• and, to name no more, 
 Raphael y Michael Angelo , Titian and Smo were 
 her excellent Painters. If it be faid, that there is 
 at prefent a decay of Learning amongfl; the j 
 Italians , it cannot be wholly denyed • but that 
 one may as freely enquire, whether it be not * 
 only when they Hand at the feet of their No- ,j 
 ble Anceftor^y not as they are compared with \ 
 any other parts of the learned World. How- 
 ever it be as to other things *, for other Lan- 
 guages befides their own, the people of Italy 
 are generally great Grangers to ’em ^ the La- j 
 tin it felf not excepted. I might proceed and ^ 
 write a Volume of her noble valiant Heroes, j 
 who for long Series of Years upheld the Gran- 
 deur of Old Rome y but I mull remember that ' 
 
 1 am a Traveller, no Hiftorian. It will there- i 
 * fore be fufficient for me to fay, that Ihe had ne- 
 
 ver been faluted with the Title of Miftrefs of j 
 the World, had Ihe not nurfed up in her Bo- 1 
 fom fuch great Men. 
 
 And if the antient Italians had their braveC4/> 1 
 € td \ ns ^ their Scipio , DuiliuSy Marius and Cafar> the 
 ^trains. &* A0CAern Italians have their Scipio too, to wit, . 
 their Alexander Fame fe, whofe true addons makes 
 Hero’s inRomances blulh, having done that really 
 •whkhFables can fcarce feign inGalkmtry, their 
 Tullius too, their Andrea D or i : a the Neptune of j 
 the Ligurian Seas y who alone taught ills Coon- 3 
 try not to ferve ; their Marius aifo, to wit, j 
 
 their 1 
 
 1 
 
Part I. 3 dopage tfl ITALY. 7 
 
 ! their brave Cafiruccio y who from a Common 
 Souldier mounted up by deferts to the high- 
 eft: Military Commands in the Emperor’s 
 Army. In fine, their Cafart oo, to wit, the 
 Marquifs SpinoLt, or rather the Achilles of Itdy y 
 who took that other T roy , Oftend, after three 
 years liege : this Siege was far more famous than 
 that of Troy, becaufe far truer. For in the Siege 
 ofTroyh was Poetry only that made the War, 
 that framed and filled the Wooden Horfe with 
 Worthies:, that dragged Hettor round about the 'ireVerfb- 
 Walls - it was Pen and Ink that killed fo many 
 Men fomno vindme feptdtos •, and Troy waseafily 
 burnt, becaufe it was built of Poets Paper. But at 
 O fiend all was real, and all Europe almoft, whogewee 
 had their forces or eyes there, were witneffes of 
 lit ^ and all this done by Spinold an Italian, 
 
 Italy was governed by divers Kings, and be- 
 came jTubje& to feveral Republicks ; untiil at 
 length her cheif City Rome became the lea&Jof 
 an imiverfal Empire. 
 
 She hath been called Saturnia from Sat wit ^ % 
 
 Latum \ Oenotria^ndHefperia , from three other 
 Princes, who planted feveral Colonies there : 
 tho it may feem that the Grecians had given 
 |her this name becaufe of her wefterly fkuation: 
 feme affirm,that K./^kf,otbers that <twao/ (Oxen 
 bred here) gave it the name of Italy ^ Butthefe 
 names were us’d for Italy , when it was at firlt 
 Subjeft to thofe Kings/the utmoft extent of 
 whofe Dominion was not more than half of 
 what Italy now is. The fucceeding Confab fab- 
 dued the Neighbouring Nations by degrees ; 
 
 And the Roman Empire was riot edablilhed til! 
 the happy Reign of Augufitis : Its grandeur be- 
 
 B 4 gan 
 
s 
 
 7 he Itali- 
 an Hu- 
 mor, 
 
 9 clopage ta ITALY. Part I.: I f 
 
 gan to decline in the Fifth Century, when the f 
 Goths ^Lombards ^French, Normans, Saractns^Ger- \ 
 
 mans, and many other Nations did in their turns 
 revenge the Injuries that had been done them • 
 and every one in their time fettled and feated 
 themfelvesin Italy. But the Emperor Juftinian 
 expel’d numbers of thefe Barbarians by the 
 good Conduct andVaiour of his brave Captains j : 
 Relltfarius and Narfm, and erected an Exarchate i 
 in the City of Revena. But the Lombards again \ 
 recovered it, and being now its Lords, founded 
 the Kingdom of Lombardy A. D. 508, in Gallia | 
 Cijalpim . This Kingdom flood for about 204 
 years *,but was utterly ruin’d by Charlemain 774 \ 
 who thereupon gave to the See of Rome a con- 
 fiderabie part of its Teritories. The Moors 
 did, in the ninth,tenth and eleventh Centuries, 
 make Incnrfions into Italy j and took poffeffion I 
 of the Ifland of Cicily, but the Normans made 
 head againft ’em, and drove them out A. D „ 
 1058. Afterwards the French and Spaniard 
 have by turns obtained the Government: But at 
 prefcnt all the Princes thatpoflefs land in Italy 
 a&a.t their own pleafure, and conformably to 
 their own Interefls, depending either on the j 
 Pope or the Emperor of Germany. 
 
 As for the Italian Humour , it is a middling j 
 humour, between too iTjnch gravity of the Spani* \ 
 
 a‘d, and too great levity of the French. Their 
 gravity is not without Tome fire, nor their levity 
 without foine flegm. They are apifh enough in 
 Carneval time:, and upon their Stages as long j 
 as the Vizard is on * but that once off, they are ) 
 too wife to play the Fools in their own Names, ] 
 tmd own it with their own Faces. They have 
 
 ftrong j 
 
9 
 
 Part I. £1 tJfrpge tO I T A L Y. 
 
 ftrorig Fancies, and yetfolid Judgments. A hap- 
 py temper, which makes them great Preachers , ^ 
 
 I Politicians and Ingeniers \ but withal they are a 
 little too melancholy and jealous : They are great 
 Lovers of their Brethren and near Kindred, as 
 jthe Firft Friends they are acquainted withal by v 
 ' Nature ; and if any of them lie in pafs and fair 
 jadvancement, all the reft of his Relations will 
 lend him their Purfes, as well as their Shoul- 
 ders, to help him up, though he be but their 
 younger Brother. They are fparing in Diet, 
 whereby they both live rn health and live 
 handlomly, making their Bellies contribute 
 to the maintenance of their Backs, and their 
 Kitchin help to the keeping oftheirStable.Sobri- 
 lety is one of their principal moral Virtues, for 
 I they neither eat nor drink to excefs. It is the 
 greateft affront for a man to be called fmbriaco 
 | or Drunkard:, And notwithftanding all the excel* 
 lent wines they have in Italy ^ one fiiall never fee 
 lanyPerfon drunk there.They are ambitious Hill 
 of Honors, remembring they are the Succefiors 
 ! of the Mafters of the World, the Old Romans ^ 
 land to put the World ft ill in mind of it, 
 
 | they take to themfelves the glorious Names ot 
 \Camillo^ S-cipioxe, JuHoyMario, Pompco , &c . They 
 | are as fenfiblealfo of their Honour, asdefirous 
 of Honours $ and this makes them obferve 
 their Wives, even to jealoufie, knowing that; 
 for one Cornelius T dcitas, there have been ten 
 Pub In Comelii ; and that Limns C or ni ficus is the 
 moft affronting Man. They are hard to be 
 plea fed, when they have been once incenftd, 
 but they care not to take revenge in the open 
 field, 
 
 in. 
 
i«5 $ (Homage to ITA L Y, Part I, 
 
 In fine, they affedt very much compounded 
 mines as Piccolomim , Capilnpo, Bentivoglio, Ma- 
 kfpina, Boncompagno-, MalvezjtJ Riccobono , Mala- 
 tefia , Homodei , and fuch like married 
 Names. 
 
 7 fair msn- 
 •suers* 
 
 See: Man- 
 fignor Ca- 
 Stc ~ 
 phtiTiO' 
 Gwa?^n 7 
 F&Iiiqar 
 C$0 i? hove 
 
 J' O 
 
 As for their Manners, they are moll com- 
 mendable. They have taught them in their 
 Hooks, they pradife them in their adions, and 
 they have fpread them abroad over all Europe 
 which owes its Civility unto the ft JbHam as well 
 as its Religion. They never affront ft rangers 
 in what Habit foever they appear * and if the 
 ftrangenefs of the Habit draw the Italians eye 
 to it, yet he will never draw in his rhouth to 
 laugh at it. As for their Apparel or Drefs, its 
 commonly Black and Modeft. They follow the 
 French infafhion, but not too haftily, except in 
 thofe places that are of the Spdnifli Fad ion, or 
 under that Government, for then one fhall fee 
 them dteff as well as walk all Spamjh. 
 
 They value no Bravery but that of Coach 
 and Hdrfcs- and Staffers • and they facrifice 
 a world of little Satisfactions to that main 
 one of being able to keep a Coach. Their 
 Points de Ccnice, Ribbons and Gold Lace, are 
 all turned into Hmfes and Liveries \ and that 
 Money" which we fpend in Treats and Ta- 
 verns, they fpend in Coach and Furniture. 
 They are indeed frugal almoft to excefs 
 for it is nfual for Princes and Cardinals, that 
 have received a Prefent of Sweetmeats, Fowls, 
 Cot. to make fde of ’em to the Confedioner 
 
 Poulterer, er. which would here be thought 
 
II 
 
 Parti. & (Homage to I T A L Y. 
 
 no lefs than the effects of a covetous and mi- 
 ferable temper. 
 
 They will ahnfe no one by aSatyrical Drol- 
 ling or Jelling, or making fuch fevere Refle- 
 xions that one is not able to bear. It is no 
 eafie matter for a Stranger to find accefs to. 
 their company, but, once gain’d, it will be 
 found very fweet, civil, and obliging, fo as 
 they may neither offend the Company in which 
 they are, nor any. Perfon, Relation or Friend ; 
 fo refpedfai are they one to another, that the 
 greateff familiarity does not make them re- 
 cede from all flridefl Rules of courteous Car- 
 riage. They are inollextreamly civil to Stran- 
 gers, avoiding whatfoever might difguft them ; 
 they will not take any occafion of refentment 
 from a Stranger , from hence it is that they 
 avoid indultrioufly to ask any one of his Re- 
 | ligion nor will, when know, enter into any 
 Difputes about that Subjed that may occafion 
 ' a Quarrel. 
 
 They do not only fuffer every one to fpeak 
 I in his turn, but alfo attend till he has done, 
 counting it a piece of ill breeding for any one 
 ' to interrupt another in his Difcourfe : they 
 whifper not in Company, nor talk in ano- 
 ther Language, that all the Company does 
 ; not underlland ; and Backbiting is with 
 I them look’d on as an unpardonable Af- 
 front. 
 
 They are precife in point of Ceremony and r ^ sir Ce ' 
 i Reception , and are not puzzled at all when they rzmmzu 
 i near a great man is coming to vifit them. 
 
 There’s not a man of them, but he knows how 
 
 to 
 
12 a mym tQ I T A L Y. Part I. J 
 
 to entertain men of all conditions ; that is, 
 how far to meet, how to place them, how tbf 
 Pile and treat them, how to reconduft them, 
 and how far. They are good for Nunciatures , 
 Embajfies , and Employments, being men of 
 
 good behaviour, looks, temper, and difp-etion, 
 and never outrunning their bufineft. They 
 are great Lovers of Afufick, Medals, Statues, 
 and Pifl-ures, as things which either divert their 
 Melancholy, or humor it: and I have read of 
 one Jacom Raynero , a Shoemaker of Bolognia , 
 who gather’d together fo many curious Medals 
 of Gold, Silver and Brafs, as would have be- 
 come the Cabinet of any Prince. In fine, they 
 are extreamly civil to one^another, not only 
 out of an awe they hand in one towards ano- 
 ther, not knowing whofe turn it may be next 
 to come to the higheft Honours, but alfo out 
 of a Natural Gravity and Civil Education, 
 which makes even Schoolboys (an infolent Na- 
 tion any where elfe) mod refpe&fu! to one ano- 
 ther in words and deeds, treating one another 
 with Fojtra Signoria , and abttaining from all ' 
 gioco di mano . Nay, ' Matters thernfelves here 
 "never beat their Servants, but remit them to 
 Juttice, if the fault require it \ and I cannot 
 remember to have heard in Rome two Women 
 fcold publickly, or Man and Wife quarrel in 
 words, except once, and then they did it fo 
 privately and fecretiy, and fcolded in fuch a 
 low tone, that I perceiv’d the Italians had Rea- 
 fon about them, even in the rtidft of their 
 Choky, 
 
Parti, aciopageto ITALY. 13 
 
 I 
 
 As for their particular Onflows, they are many . 7 heir par- 
 They marry by their Ears oftner than by their ticuUrC 11- 
 Eyes, and fcarce fpeak with one another till ftoms * 
 they meet before the Parifh Prieft, to fpeak 
 the indiffolvable words of Wedlock. They make 
 Children to go bareheaded till they be four or 
 five years old, hardhing them thus againfh 
 Rheums and Catarrhs when they lhall be old 0 
 Hence few People in Italy go fo warm on their 
 Herfds as they do in France % Men in their Houfes 
 wearing nothing upon their Heads but a little 
 Calotte, ?. nd Women for the moil part going all 
 bareheaded in the midft of Winter it felf. Wo- 
 men herealfo wafh their Heads weekly in a wafh 
 made for the nonce, and dry them again in the 
 Sun, to make their Hair yellow, a colour much 
 in vogue here among Ladies. And one ma^ 
 add to this, that they paint, than which 
 nothing is more common ^ and for all forts of 
 Ornaments and Decorations, they ufe as much 
 as their Husbands and Friends will permit : 
 
 There goes a Saying of ’em. That they are Mag- 
 pies at the Door, Saints in the Church, Goats in the 
 Garden, aingels in the Streets, Syrens in the Win- 
 dows, and Devils in the Houfe. The Men throw 
 off their Hats, Cuffs, and Bands, as well as their / 
 
 Cloaks, at their return home from Vilits or Bu- 
 finefs, and put on a grey Coat, without which 
 they cannot dine or fup • and 1 have been in- 
 vited to dinner byt an Italian, who before din- 
 ner made his Men take off our Hats and Cloaks, 
 and prefent every one of us (and we were five 
 in all) with a colour’d Coat, and a little Cap, 
 to dine in. At dinner they ferve in the belt 
 Meats firft, and eat backwards • that is, they 
 
1 4 3 (Homage to I T A L Y. Part I. j 
 
 Begin with the fecond courfe, and end with 
 boyfd Meat and Pottage. They never prefent 
 you with Salt, or Brains of any Fowl, led they 
 may feetn to reproach unto you want of Wit. 
 They bring you Drink upon a Sottocoppa of Sil- 
 ver, with three or four Glaflesupon it, two or 
 three of which are ftrait-neck’d Glalfes, (cal- 
 led there Caracas') full of* feveral forts of 
 Wines or Water, and one empty drinking Glafe 
 into which you may pour what quantity of 
 Wine and Water youpleafe to drink, and not 
 Hand to the difcretion of the waiters, as they 
 do in other Countries. At great Feafts no man 
 cuts for himfelf, but feveral Carvers cut up ail 
 the Meat at a Side-table, and give to the Wai- 
 ters,^ be carried to the Guefts \ and every one 
 hath the very fame part of Meat carried unto 
 him, to wit, a JVing and a Leg of wild Fowl, | 
 &c. led any one take exceptions that others 
 were better ufed than he. The Carvers never 
 touch the Meat with their Hands, but only 
 with their Knife and Fork, and great HI ver Spoon 
 for the Sauce. Every man here eats with his" 
 Fork and Knife, and never toucheth any thing 
 with his Fingers but his Bread • this keeps the 
 Linen neat, and the Fingers fweet. If you 
 drink to a w Italian ^ he thanks you with bend- 
 ing, when you falute him, and lets you driiik 
 quietly, without watching ( as we do in Eng- 
 land') to thank you again when you have drank, 
 and the fir ft time he drinks after that, will be 
 to you, in requital of your former Courtefie. 
 They have a ftrange way of returning Affronts 
 when they happen * they break, if they can, a 
 fettle of Ink on the per fan," efpeciallf if (lie is 
 
Part I. a aopap ta ITALY. 
 
 a Woman, or elfe over the Door of the Honfe, 
 fo that it remain fpotted j and this is taken 
 for the greatelt mark of Infamy that can re- 
 main upon one. It is very trouble feme to tra- 
 vel with Fire-arms here, becaufe we are forc’d 
 in moft Cities to leave ’em at the Gate with the 
 Guard, till fuch time as we leave the place : 
 
 This is done to prevent private AlTaults and 
 Murders, which would happen here very of- 
 ten, by reafon of their Jealoufie, did they not 
 take this courfe. When we part from one Ci- 
 ty, we muft either take a Bill of Health, or we 
 fliall not be admitted into another. 
 
 They count not the hours of the day, as we 
 do, from twelve to twelve , but they begin their 
 count from Sun-fet^nd the fir ft hour after S un- 
 fa is one a-clock and fo they count on till four 
 and twenty , that is, till the next Sun- fa again. 
 
 1 have often dined at fixteen a- clock, and gone 
 abroad in the Evening, to take the Air, at two 
 and twenty. They call Men much by their 
 Chriftian Names, Signor Pietro , Signor Francefco , 
 
 Signor Jacomo, &c. and you may live whole ^ 
 Years with in Italian^ and be very well ac- quafim- 
 quainted with him,without knowing him, that 
 is, without knowing his diftinflive Surname. St * 
 People of quality never vilit one another, but 
 they fend firft to know when they may do it, 
 without troubling him they intend to viiit * by" 
 this means they never rulh into one anothers 
 Chambers without knocking, as they do in 
 France nor crofs the Deligns or Bufinefs of 
 him they vifit, as they do in England , with 
 tedious dry Vifits ^ nor find one another ei- 
 ther undreSed in Clothes, unprovided in Com- 
 plements 
 
* 6 a to I T A L Y. Part X. 
 
 plements and Difcourfe, or without their At- 
 tendants and Train. In the Streets Men and 
 Women of Condition feldom or never go to- 
 gether in the fame Coach, except they be ftran- 
 gers, that is, of another Town or Country ; 
 nay, Husbands and Wives are feldom. feen to- 
 gether in the fame Coach, becaufe all. men do 
 not know them to be fo. In the Streets ,w feen 
 two Perfons of great quality meet, as two Am- 
 bajfadours, or two Cardinals , they both ftop 
 their Coaches, and complement one another 
 civily, and then retire ^ but Hill he that is in- 
 feriour mufi: let the other’s Coach move firfr. 
 
 If any man, being a foot in the Street, meet a 
 great man, either in Coach, or a foot, he mult 
 not falute him in going on his way, as we do in 
 England and France, without flopping, but he 
 muftftand ftill whilft the other pafleth, and 
 bend refpedfully to him as he goes by, and 
 then continue his march. In fine, of all -the Na- 
 tions I have feen, I know none that lives, 
 clothes, eats, drinks and fpeaks fo much with 
 Reafon asthe Italians do. 
 
 As for their Riches, they muff needs be great, 
 niches. That which is vifible in their magnificent Pa- 
 laces, Churches, Monafleries, Gardens, Foun- 
 tains, and rich-rurnifh d Rooms, fpeaks that to r 
 be great which, is in the Coffers : and that & 
 which the King of Spam draws vifibjy from 
 Naples every year, fhews what the other parts h 
 of Italy could do for a need, if they were put 
 to it by neceffity. Nay, I am of opinion, that 
 the very S aerify of Loretta , the Gallery of the fc 
 Duke of Florence , and the Treafury of Venice, pi 
 Would, upon an emergent occafion of a Gothick Iq 
 
 U 1 1 
 

 part i. a aiopage to Italy. 
 
 or Turkijh Invafion, be able t®- maintain an 
 Army for five years fpace ; and the Plate in 
 Churches and Monafteries would be able to do 
 its much more, if the owners of it were 
 foundly frighted with a new Cot hick Eruption. 
 As for the Riches of particular Princes in Italy 
 I will fpeak of them as I view their States here 
 below. 
 
 The Nobles and Gentlemen of Italy delight 
 to inhabit their Cities, from whence - ^ it is that 
 they are fc great, and fine, and well built, fo 
 opulent and rich, great P.rfons chufing more 
 to fpend their Eftates in building Palaces, and 
 i adorning them with Paintings and Statues 
 Tpacious Orchards, Gardens, and Walks, and 
 • in keeping Coaches, and fine Horles, and great 
 Retinues of Servants, &c. than in keeping great 
 Houfes and plentiful Tables. They are fuch 
 Admirers of Pictures and Statues, that they 
 will give any rate for choice Pieces of either. 
 They love very much a Theatrical Pomp, and 
 are feen very often at publick Shows, & c . and 
 ,the inferiour Gentry affeft to appear in pub- 
 lick with all polfible fplendor, chufing to deny 
 :hemfelves many fatisfadlions at home, that 
 :hey may better keep a Coach, and therein 
 nake the ' Tour a-la-mode about the Streets of 
 their Cities, as it js the manner of the Gentry 
 o do, efpecially in Venice. When there are 
 many Brothers of oneHoufe, ’tis not ufual for 
 more than one to marry- nor any belides the 
 ildeft, it he fhall pleafe but if he has no In- 
 clination, then any other, as it can be agreed 
 )n among them j and all the reft do what they 
 ::an to make him great that is married, there- 
 
 C by 
 
1 S 3 to I T A L Y. Fart I v 
 
 by to keep up the Port of the Family : But the 
 Brothers that marry not, many of them keep 
 and carefs themfelves in the wanton Embraces 
 of lewd Courtefans. 
 
 There are Hofpitals in many of their Cities, 
 where Pilgrims and poor Travellers are enter- 
 tained, and have Diet and Lodging given them 
 for three days, befides, a piece of Money at 
 their departure ^ but we were told by feme, 
 that this Charity is very much abufed of late, 
 the', having no occafion to make tryal, I could 
 not find out any means of gaining certain in- 
 formation. There are alfo fome Hofpitals to 
 receive Children that are expos’d, where care* 
 is taken of ’em : this is faid to be done on puv- 
 pofe to prevent Peoples murdering their Chil- 
 dren to conceal their Shame. 
 
 A Flefh-d inner in Italy fhall be drefs’d tilt 
 one may fhake it to pieces upon .a Fork : it is 
 naturally more lean and dry than ours, but by 
 r.hcir over-roafling, &c. they leave in it no 
 Juice at all • and their Fires are made under 
 
 the Spit, that the Fat may drop on them, and 
 give the Meat a tin&ure. They ferape Clieefe Ljj 
 upon all their Dilhes, even of Flefh, counting t ' 
 that it gives the Meat a good relilh. Froggs L 
 ferv’d up is a great Difii with them *, they are L 
 irfuallv fry’(L and font up with Oyl ^ but at. L 
 Venice they eat only the Loins and hind Legs y |i|, 
 as alio at Florence , and that on Fifh-days, Li 
 Snails boil’d and ferv’d up, with Oyl and Pep--' * 
 per put into their Shells, is very common, arid: Mj 
 in good efteem with them. They eat all man--- L 
 Ker of fmall Birds, as Wrens , Titmoufe, &c. and,; T 
 
f? rt I. 9 GJopage to ITALY. 
 
 19 
 
 vti feed on, as Magpies r Jays^ W jodpeckers. 
 Jackdaws , &c. ana v^ n in&>/»e ’tis common 
 to fee Kites and Hawks lying on Poulterers 
 Stalls. They have many excellent Fruits, 
 which come to a greater perfe&ion than ours. 
 They efteem very much of Chefmtts roafted, 
 and the Kernels ferv’d i?p with Juice of Le- 
 mons and Sugar : Roafted Chefmtts are a great 
 part of the Diet of the poor Pefants in Italy. 
 In their fecond Courfes they frequently ferve 
 Up Pine kernels. They often ufe Water-melons^ 
 and, at the time of the Year, green Almonds . 
 They prize cxtreamly a kind of Sweetmeat or 
 Coafedion made of Muftard and Sugar, which 
 ;i they call Italian Mufiard j they ufe it to cool 
 and refrefh themfelves. And for their Wines 
 I they ufe Snow, t or Ice, which they keep all 
 i Summer *, they that are much us’d to this way 
 j will not in this Country, even in Winter, 
 dilink without Snovv. 
 
 ! I could not obferve any Vice which the It a- 
 fans had been guilty of fo much as thefe j they 
 are moft extravagant in their Revenge, never 
 1 forgiving any Injury ^ moil fecret and trea-^ 
 cherous in the Defign, making no difeovery of 
 i the leaft Difpleafure, till they find an Oppor- 
 tunity to afiault • and if then prevented by 
 fome unexpected Accident, at the fame time 
 , implacable in their Hatred, refolving to exe- 
 cute their defign even in the very . moment 
 when they fay they will forgive, and at that 
 cl iinftant when they p'omife Pardon ; whence it 
 is that they fo prophanely fay. That Vengeance 
 % m fofweet a things that the Almighty refer ves it to 
 ;• d-mfelf hecaife be have no Mortal partake 
 
 C a 
 
 with 
 
20 
 
 a (Homage to IT AL Y. Part Iy 
 
 with him in fo great a G ood* I *^oK notice of 
 tteir LuJt alfo. whk»* * obferv’d to rage a- 
 mongH: them huth naturally and unnaturally* 
 Their extraordinary jealoiiile I believe to be 
 an unhappy Effedl of the former, by reafon of 
 wlndi I took notice that their Women for the 
 moil part live miferabiy. Add to thefe. that 
 they are great Swearers, Priefts and Monks 
 themfeives being fcarceable to abllain from it. 
 
 The Language which they fpeak is a. corrupt 
 Latin s the Goths, Vandal-, Lombards, and many 
 other Nations, having mix’d with ’etn, and 
 taught ’em their feveral harfh and unpleafant 
 jargons- the moll polite manner of expreirion 
 Is tiled chiefly at Tufcany but this Dialed 
 ought to be pronounced by a Roman, who fets 
 it off with the moll delicate accent, which gave 
 occafem to that Proverb among this People, 
 Zi#gm V&feana in Bote a Rcmana. Indeed the 
 Itdum is a very elegant Language, and deferves 
 well to be ftudied by an ingenious Lingnill * 
 
 It is reckon’d the moll harmonious and fono- 
 tious of all modern Languages, and the fittefi: 
 for Songs * it is not fpoken in all Italy, for, in 
 Savoy and Piedmont the French Tongue is moll ' 
 isfed. In Sne, 
 
 The Religion of this Country is that which 
 we call Roman Catholic!:, or the Religion of the 
 Pap ills, which they derive from Papa , and it 
 fignifies Father, the Title of the univerfal Pon- 
 tiff the* they do generally aflame to themfelves 
 the name of Catholicks t how notorious foever it 
 be, that there are Churches in the World, and 
 thole not a few, that have like Pretenlions to . 
 he of the Church Catholick, who yet are net , 
 
 of 1 
 
Part I. 51 (Homage to I T A L¥. 
 
 of her Communion. Their Religion is pro- 
 felled all ovxr Itaiy\ and the lflquifitiors h in 
 moft places fo ftrhft, that it is very dangerous 
 to be of any ether, for only feme few Jews are 
 tolerated, on the account of Trade : however^ 
 in the Valleys of Piedmont there are many Pro - 
 t eft ams that are called Baudot’s ftn n amber about 
 Fifteen thpufand, which . have maintain’d the 
 Purity of their Religion more than Twelve 
 hundred years, tho’ they have fofrerd very 
 great Perfecuticns moft part of the time by 
 the Dukes of Savoy 5 they have lately obtain’d 
 Liberty for the exereife of their Rdigbii/rosi 
 the prefeut Duke. 
 
 Having faid thus much of Italy irs general, I 
 will now come to a particular Defolpfios of 
 it, according to the ocular Obfer/ations I made 
 of it in five feveral Voyages through it 5 m 
 which defeription, if I be, a little prolis, it is 
 becaufe I rid not poft through Italy when l&w 
 it ' 7 nor will I write poft through it i&ddarl* 
 bing it ^ being allur’d that Epitomes in Ceo* 
 graphy are as diffetisfaSory as Laconic! Let- 
 ters would be in State Relations * and that, tte 
 great -At las y in nine great volumes in foim* h 
 not only Atlas tnajor 7 but alto Atlas mdm\ 
 
a dlopage to I T A L Y. Part L 
 
 The jevcral Ways by which a Man 
 may go into Italy. 
 
 HE ordinary ways which an Englifn-man 
 may take in going into Italy are five, to 
 
 wit, either through Flanders and Germany, and 
 fo to fall in at Trent or Trcvifo , and lb to Venice, 
 Or elfe by France, and fo to Marfeilles^rA thence 
 to Genoa by Sea. Or elfe by Land from Lyons , 
 through Swifferland , the Grifons Country, -and 
 the Valtoline , and fo pop up at Brefcia . Or elfe 
 from Lyons again through the Fakfians Country 
 over Mount Sampon, the Lake major , and fo to 
 Milan . Or elfe, in fine, from Lyons ftill over 
 Mount Cehk, and fo to Turin, the nearelt Poifc- 
 way. I have gone or come all thefe ways, in 
 my five Voyages into /r^/y, and tho’ I prefer the 
 lafl for fpeed and conveniency, yet l will de- 
 fcribe the others too, that my young Traveller 
 may know how to fleer his courfe, cither in 
 time of Plague or War, 
 
 My First Voyage into Italy. 
 
 M Y firfl Voyage was through Flanders and 
 Germany , and fo to Trent, The way isj 
 from England to Dunkirk from thence to 
 Fumes, JSievof ort,0 fiend, Bruges, Ghent, Brujftls, 
 Lo-vmn, Liege, Cologn > Mayence, Franc ford^ and fo 
 ctofilng to Munichen, the Coutt of the Duke of 
 Bavaria, and fiom thence to Aushurg, and ln- 
 fpruck, you come Toon to Trent, which Hands 
 
 
Parti. aOopgetP ITALY. 
 
 upon the Confines of Germany', and lets yon into 
 Italy , by Trevifo, belonging to the Venetians^ To 
 defciibe ail thefe ’forefaid places, would take 
 me too much time from my defign of defending 
 Italy, and therefore i content rpy felf only to 
 have named them. 
 
 My fee end Voyage . 
 
 M Y ft con d Voyage was by the way o f France, 
 where I ftarted from/Vw, and made to- 
 wards Lyons \ in the way I took notice of thefe 
 places. 
 
 Iffow a neat houfe belonging then to Mon fie nr } 
 Efjolm . The Houfe is fo pretty, that 1 think it 
 worth the Travellers feeing, and rny ctefcri- 
 hing. -It Hands in the fhade of a thick grove 
 of Trees,, and is wholly built and furnilhed al- 
 Jtaliana . Under the fide of the Houfe, runs a 
 little Brook, which being received into a Balon 
 of Free-ftone, juft as 'long as the Houfe, and 
 made like a Ship, (that is, (harp at both ends 
 .and wide in the middle) it is cloven, and di- 
 vided into two by the fharp end of this Ship , 
 and conveyed in clofe Channels of Free-Hone* 
 on both fides of the Ship or Bafon, into which 
 it empties it felf by feveral Tunnels, or Pipes : 
 fo that all this Water fpouting into the open 
 Ship on both (ides, by four and twenty Tun- 
 nels, makes under the Windows of the Hbufe* 
 fuch a perpetual purling of Water, (like ma- 
 ny Fountains ) that the gentle noife is able to 
 make the molt jealous Man fteep profoundly. 
 At the other end of the Houfe, this Water 
 ISEaeth cut of the other end of the laid Ship,ar4 
 "T C 4 is 
 
3 SlOpagt t0 IT ALY. PartL 
 
 is courteoufly entreated by feveral hidden pipes 
 of Lead, to walk into the Houfe, inftead of 
 running by fo faft : which it doth, and is pre- 
 fently led into the Cellars, and Buttery j and 
 not only into thefe, but alfo into the Kitchin, 
 Stables , Chambers , and Bathing Room, all 
 which it furnifheth with Water either for 
 Neceffity or Pleafure. Then being led into the 
 curious Garden, it ? s met there by a world of 
 little open Channels of Free-ftone, built like 
 Knots of Flowers ^ all which it fills brimful, 
 and makes even Flowers of Water. Then run- 
 ning up and down here and there among the 
 fragrant Delights of this Garden , as if it had 
 forgotten its Errant to the Sea, it feems to be 
 fo taken with thofe fweet Beds of Flowers, J and 
 io defirousof refting upon them, after f© many 
 miles running, that it offers to turn it felf into 
 any ppfture, rather than be turned out of this 
 fweet place. 
 
 From Tjfone I came to Fount ain-bleatt , where 
 I faw that Kingly Houfe. the Nonfuch of France r 
 It Hands in the mid ft of a great Forejf full cf 
 Royal Game, and a place of Delight of Henry 
 'the Fourth. The Houfe is capable cf lodging 
 Tour Kings with feveral Corns. The Court of 
 Cheval Blanc is a noble fquare of Buildings : but 
 thelownefs of the Buildings and Lodgings fhews, 
 they are for the lower fort of People, and the; 
 Servant Lodgings to the Royal Apartments. 
 
 • The Oval Court is a good old Building, The 
 Kings and Queens Lodgings with their Cabinets 
 Thr Gdie- groan under their rich gilt Pvcofs. The Gallery 
 of Staggs Heads is a Hardy Room, than which 
 nothing can be more Cavalierly furnifhed 7 
 
 except 
 
 fount; n 
 oleau. 
 
 the Court 
 of the Che- 
 , Blanc 
 
 f r: Oval 
 Court. 
 
 1 of 
 Stags 
 Heal 
 
2 5 
 
 Part I. a Qopage to I T A L y. 
 
 except fuch another Gallery hung with Turhifh 
 Standards won in War. The other long 6'aJH 7 ‘f G f¥f~ . 
 ries of Romances and fables , painted by Simon ^^ 4 . °1 
 and others, are much efteemed : the on- 1 f 
 ly pity is that fuch true painting ihould not 
 [have been employed upon true Hiftories. 
 
 The Salk of the Conference is a ftately Room, The Salk 
 [where the Bifhopof Frnux ( afterwards called oftheCon- 
 j the Cardinal dn Perron) in prefence of King^J^* 
 Henry the Fourth , the Chancellor, five Judges p U buck 
 of both Religions, and the whole Room full of Ms of ilk 
 learned Men, difputed with Monficnr Plcffis CGn fe reyics 
 I Morjsay , the Achilles of tbofe of Charenton . T he^ r ^^ ^' u 
 Mall of Masks, and the Lodgings of Madam 1 01 * 
 
 I Cabriclle with l)er Pitture over the Chimney like Madam? 
 
 j a Diana Hunting , are fine Rooms ■* yet the Gabriell% 
 fair Pi&ure cannot hinder Men from blaming Pi urea 
 
 I I her foul Life *, nor from cenfuring that Solcecifm 
 
 I of the Painter, who made Chafte Diana look 7> t 
 1 like Madam Gabrklle . There are alfo here two 
 Chapels , the old and the new. The old one 
 | is a poor thing • and feems to have been built 
 for Hunters .* but the new one is both neat and 
 {lately , and built upon this occafton, as a 
 Biftiop in France told me. A Spanifb Embaffador 
 rcfiding in Paris in Henry the IV. his time went 
 one day from Paris to Fountain -blean , to 
 this French Ffinrial. Arriving, he lighted after 
 his Country fafhion, at the Chappel Door 
 (the old Chappel) and entering in, to thank 
 Gcd for his fafe arrival, he wondred to fee fo 
 poor and dark a Chapel , and asking with in- 
 dignation, whether this were the Cafa di Dios. t 
 the Houfe of God ? he turned prefently away 
 with fcorn, fayingjiVb quiero ver mas ^ I care for 
 
2 6 
 
 M Carps. 
 
 V? Ft 
 
 3 ClOpnge tp I T A L Y, Part I, 
 
 feeing no more : not flaying to fee that place, 
 where the King had fo fine a Houfe, and God 
 fo poor a Chapel. This being told the lafl King 
 Levon the XilL he commanded forthwith the 
 new Chapel to be built in that fumptuous po- 
 fture we now fee it. 
 
 Going out of the Houfe, you find a hand fo me 
 Mail, and lare Ponds of Water, which even 
 baptize this place with the name of Fountain'* 
 blean. In thefe Ponds, as alio in the Moat a- 
 bout the Houfe, are kept excellent Carps ^ 
 fome whereof were faid to be an hundred years 
 old } which, though we were’not bound to be- 
 lieve, might make Men believe that there are 
 gray [calcs, as well as gray hairs \ and decayed 
 i lilies, as well as decrepit Men : efpecially 
 when Columella fpeaks of a Fifh of his acquain- 
 tance, in Cafars Fife-ponds near Fauflippus , 
 which had lived threefeore years ^ and Gtfne* 
 rus, relates, that in a Fife-Pond near PI ay [rum 
 \w Suable, a Fifh was catched Anno 1497, with 
 aBrafsRingat hisGills,in which were engraven 
 thefe words : 1 am the firfi Fiji) which Frederick 
 the fecond,G otembur of, the world, put into this Pend 
 the 5 of O&oher 1 * 0 . 3 . By which it appears, 
 that this Fife had lived two hundred and fix tv 
 odd years. But to return again to our Carps of 
 Fountain- hie an. It’s an ordinary divertifement 
 here, to throw a halfpenny loaf into the Moqt 
 among the Carps, and to fee how fome will 
 mumble and jumble it to and fro ; how others 
 w ill puff aad fimff, how fuch hot Paffions feould 
 be found in cold Water ; but every thing that 
 lives, will fight for that whereby it lives, ks 
 Vi&uals* 
 
 Ha- 
 
Parti, a ajopage to I T A L Y. 27 
 
 Having fee n Fomtain-blcau , I faw one ex- Au di in* 
 traordinarv thing in the reft of the way to 
 ons, it was an old Infcription in Letters of Gold, ° 
 
 upon a Wooden Fabrick, a mile before 1 came 
 to Montargis, importing, that the Englifl) being 
 encamped here, had been forced to raife their 
 Siege before Montargis , by reafon of great 
 Rain and fudden Inundations. Some of the 
 French Hiftorians will have it, that it was the 
 Count de Dunois , that forced the Englifh to raile 
 the Siege here .* but I had rather believe publick 
 jnicriptions, than private flattery : and it was 
 more honourable for the Englifh to be over- 
 come by God than by Men. 
 
 From hence I palled through Montargis , 
 neat pleafantTown • in the great Halloi whofe 
 Caftle is painted the Hiftory of the Dog that 
 fought a Duel with the Murderer of his Maftcr\ 
 and it is not ftrange that the Dog that had put 
 on Humanity, overcame him that had put itofF, 
 i to efpoufe the devouring humour of a Dog. 
 
 1 This is the chief Town of the GaftinOus. 
 
 From hence I went to Briar e, where I faw the Brizr? 
 
 I cut Channel that joyns Loire and Sene together 
 - in TrafEck, whofe Beds other wife ftand wide ^ 
 
 ;| from one another in fituation. • * Se7: ^ 
 
 From thence to Cofne la Charite Longues famous 
 for wholefome ftinking waters Li cures famous 
 for Glafs Houfes^ Moulins famous for Knives and 
 Settlors •, La Paliffe , where they make excellent 
 Winter-Boots ♦ Roanne , where I.oire, begins to 
 be navigable, and fo over Terrara Hills to Lyons. 
 
 Lyons is one of the greajteft and richeft 
 Towns in France . It ftands upon the Rivers 
 $*one and Rhofm, {Afar is and Rhodanus) and 
 i - • in- 
 
2 ? 
 
 A noble 
 Chapter. 
 
 S . ^ohns 
 L hurch . 
 
 9 to ITALY. Pari. L 
 
 intercepting all the Merchandife of Burgundy'*.. 
 Gernumy and Italy : here you have handfom peo- 
 ple, noble houfes, great jollity, frequent. balls* 
 and much bravery •, all marks of a good Town: 
 and could it but intercept either the Parlia- 
 ment of Aix or Grenoble, it would be as noble 
 as its name, cr as Its Cathedral Chapter, whole 
 Dean and Brdnnds are ail Counts , and noble of 
 four defeents. They got the Title of Counts , 
 thus A great conteft arifing between the 
 Chapter of St. John s Church and the Count 
 de Forrefts , called Gum, for fome rights over 
 the Town of Lyons , which they both Pretended 
 to ^ at la HtJnnox x 66, they came to an agree- 
 ment, upon this condition, that the Count 
 fliould leave to the Chapter his Country of 
 Forrefts •, which he did ♦, and fo ever fince the 
 Dean and Prebends have been called Counts of 
 St. John. 
 
 The chief things to be feen in Lyons are, 
 thefe. , 
 
 i. The great Church, or Cathedral called" j 
 Johns church. Its the Seat of an Archbifhop, ^ 
 who is Primate of Gaul. St. Irenaus was a great . 
 Ornament of this Church, as was alfo Eucherm. 1 
 
 Upon Solemn Days the Canons officiate in Mi~ | 
 ters like Bilhops. They fing here all the Of- 
 fice by Heart, and without Book, as alfo with- 
 out Prick-Song Mufick, Organs, or other Inflru- 
 ments, ufing only the antient plain fong. The 
 High- Altar islikethofe of Italy , that is open 
 on all Tides, with a Crucifix and two little Can- / 
 dlefticks upon it. I never faw any hangings, Fj 
 in this Church, not upon the greatefi; days, but 
 
 venera* I 
 
l*ktt i. acLTOPOge to ITALY. 29 
 
 venerable old Walls. -The Clock here is mqch 
 cvyed up for a rare piece. 
 
 2. The ftately new Tmvn-h$nfe , of pure 
 
 S white Tree-Hone, able to match that of Am- The Town- 
 far dam } and indeed they Teemed to me to b ehoufe* 
 
 1 Twins , for I faw .'them' both in the fame 
 | year a$ they were in building. The curious 
 Stair- Cafe , and Ball above, are the things 
 limoft worthy taking notice of, the one for its 
 contrivance- the other for its painting. 
 
 3. The Jcfuits College and fair Library. 
 
 4. The Carthufians Monaftery upon a high other rz- 
 
 Hill. ritku 
 
 5. The Minims Sachrifty well painted. 
 
 6. The reft of the old Aqnedud upon the 
 Hill. 
 
 I ^ 7. The Mail, and the fweet place of Bella ■ 
 
 (Spur. 
 
 8. The Heart of St. Francis de Saks in the 
 in the Church of the Vifitation in Belle Com \ 
 
 9. The C barite, where all the poor, who 
 are kept at work with admirable Oeconomy : 
 
 It looks like a little Town, having in it 
 nine Courts, all built up with lodgings for the 
 poor, who are about fifteen hundred, and di- 
 vided into feveral Clafles, with their feveral 
 Refreftories and Chapels. 
 
 10. The Head of St. Bonaventure in the Cor- 
 deliers Church. 
 
 1 1 . The Caftle of Pierre Ancife , built upon 
 1 Rock. 
 
 S I2. Noftre Dame de Fourier ftanding upon a 
 high Hill, from whence you have a perfeft 
 view of Lyons . 
 
 13. Laft- 
 
aaiopagcto I T A ly. Pnctn 
 
 ml 
 
 13. Laftly, the tare Cabinet of MonfieurSer* 
 vier, a moil ingenious Gentleman \ where I faw 
 moll rare experiments in Mathematicks and Me- 
 thatiickj-) all made by his own hand • as the Synv 
 pathetical Balls, one fpringing up at the ap- 
 proach of the other, held up a pretty diftance 
 off; thedemonflration of a quick way hovv to 
 pafs any Army over a River with one Boat, and 
 a Wooden Bridge eafily to be folded up upon 
 one Cart : the Moitfe-dial, where a little thing, 
 like a Moufe, by her infenfible motion, marks 
 the hours of the day. The Lizard-dial is much 
 like the former, only the Moufe moves upon 
 a plain Frame of Wood which hath the hours 
 marked on it $ and the Lizard creeps upward 
 from hour to hour. The Night dial , fhewing 
 by a lighted Lamp fet behind it, the hours of 
 the night, which are painted in colours upon 
 oyled Paper, and turn about as the, time goes* 
 The lortoife- dial \ where a piece of Cork cut 
 like a Tortoife, being put into a Pewter-difh 
 of Water, which hath the twelve hours of the 
 day marked upon its brims, goeth up and 
 down the Water awhile, Peeking out the hour 
 of the day that is then, and there fixing it felf 
 without ffirring. The Rare Engine, teaching 
 how to throw Grcmad<?% into befieged Towns, 
 and into any precife place without failing. 
 The way how to fee up a Watch-Tower with 
 a Man in it, to look into a Town frosp without, 
 and fee how they are drawn up within the 
 Town : A way how to change Dining-Room's 
 
 three or four times with their 
 and Gufcffs being by the 
 traniportecl fitting, out of 
 
 Fables, the Seat-, 
 turning of a wheel 
 one Pvoom into ano- 
 ther i 
 
Part I. % dopage to ITALY, 
 
 ther, and fo into three or four more Rooms 
 varioufly hung, with Tables cover’d. The Desk - 
 ! Dial, which throws np a little Ball of Ivory 
 without reft, and thereby marketh the hour of- 
 the day, and Iheweth what a clock it is ; the 
 Dial of th z Planets, reprefenting the Days of 
 the Week by feveral Figures of the Planets in 
 Ivory; the Oval Dial, in which the Needle 
 that marks the Hours fnrinketh in, or ftretch- 
 eth out it felf,according as the Oval goes ; the 
 Dial fhewing to every one that toucheth it his 
 predominant Pajjlon ; with a world of other rare 
 [Curiafities, all made by this ingenious Gentle- 
 man. 
 
 Leaving Lyons , I embark’d in a Cabanne, or 
 little cover’d Boat, and defcending the rapid 
 Rhofne, I came poft by Water to Fienne, where V kme. 
 wont'ms Pilate, banifh’d hither, threw himfelf off 
 a high Tower, and kill’d himfelf. The Cathe- 
 dral of this Town is a fair Church, dedicated 
 to God, in the honour of St. Maurice ; there 
 are neither Figures nor Hangings in this 
 iGhurch. 
 
 From hence I went to Tour non, where I favv Toumon . 
 p good Library in the College. 
 
 Thence to y dtnce in Dauphine , where Law T Valence, 
 is taught. 
 
 From whence I came to Pont Saint Efprit , Pom s. 
 ramous for its long Bridge of thirty three Ar- Efpriu 
 ches, and for the Bones of a Gyant, which are 
 confer ved in the Dominicans Convent here- 
 and from hence to Avignon, 
 
 -d-vignon is the head Town of a little Country 
 tail a vulgarly the Comnd le Cor.tad A Avignon. Avigtmo 
 (t belongs to the Pope, having been purchas’d 
 
 by 
 
3 (Homage to I T A L Y. Part L 
 
 by one of his Predeceflors anciently of Jane 
 Queen of Naples, and Councefs of Avignon ; 
 and it ferved for a fafe retreat to divers Popes 
 confccutively, during the Troubles of Italy, 
 which lafted above feventy years. At laft 
 Italy , and the Pope's Territories there, being 
 clear’d by the admirable Courage and Conduct 
 of brave Cardinal Albomozx.o , who conquered 
 again all the Pope’s Eftate, the Pope Gregory 
 the XL returned home again to Rome . Of the 
 'forefaid Cardinal Albormzxjo I cannot omit to 
 tell one thing ^ That after his great Services 
 render’d to the Pope, being envied by fome of 
 the Court, who had perfwaded his Holinefs 
 to call him to an Account for the great Sum ms 
 of Money he had fpent in reducing again the 
 whole State of the Pope unto its Obedience ' 
 lie brought the next morning a Cart laden 
 with Chains , Bolts, Locks and Keys, belonging 
 once to thofe Towns which he had retaken for 
 the Pope, and placed it under the Pope’s Win- 
 dow • thengoingup, one defiring his Holinefs 
 to draw to a Window, to fee his Accounts the 
 better, he open’d the Window, and fliew’d him 
 below, the Cart laden with Chains , Bolts, Locks 
 and Keys, faying, Holy Father , I /pent all your 
 Afoney in making you Ad after again of thofe Towns 
 Tvhoje Keys , Locks, Bolts and Chains you fee in that 
 Can below. At which the Pope admiring, de- 
 fired no more Account of him, who proved 
 his Honefty by whole Cart-loads of Services., 
 Ever (ince that time, Avignon hath belong’d to 
 the Pope, and he governed! it by a Vice- Legate 
 immediately, the Pope’s Nephew, pro tempore 9 
 being always Legate of this Town. 
 
Part L a aopage to I T A L Y. j j 
 
 The things I faw here were thefe : i . The the %tri- 
 Cathedral Church^mth divers Tombs of Popes ties . 
 in it that died here. 2. The Church of S. D*- 
 with the Tomb of Petrus Damianus , who 
 follow’d the Pope hither : He was famous for 
 his learned Works, and his known. Sandity. 
 
 3 . The Church of the Celefiins , with the Tomb and 
 neat Chapel of Cardinal, Veter of Luxemburg , a 
 young Mail of a great Family, and of a greater 
 Sandity. 4 . Th eCarthu/ians Monaftery in the 
 Bourg of V Ukneuye^ where you fliall fee much 
 good painting. 5. The Dominicans fair Con- 
 vent, with the Chapel and true Pidure of St. 
 Vincentius Ferrerius , a holy Man of this Order. 
 
 6 . The Cordeliers Church, famous for its wide- 
 nefs, and yet not fupported by any Pillars : 
 
 Here lies buried Madam Laura , render’d fo 
 famous by Petrarch' s Verfes } not that fne was 
 a difhoneft Woman, but only chofen by him 
 to be the Poetical Miftrefs of his Sonnets. 
 
 '7. The Church of the Fathers of the Chriftian 
 Dottrine , with the Body, yet entire, of the 
 Founder of their Order, P. Cafar de Bus , a Man 
 of fuch lingular Sandity, that Cardinal Kichlieu , 
 banifh’d hither, whilft he was only Bilhop of 
 Lufm , offer’d and vow’d a Silver Lamp to God 
 attheTombof this holy Beato. 8. The fine 
 Free-ftone Walls of this Town, the admirable 
 Bridge, many handfome Palaces, and curious 
 Gardens. 9. The Trading of this Town, 
 which confilts much in Silk-ftufFs, perfumed 
 Gloves, Ribbons, and fine Paper. 10, The 
 Inhabitants here, who love to go well adjufted 
 and Appear in fine Clothes. 
 
 D From 
 
34 2 Ctcipage tc I T A L Y. Part I. 
 
 From Avignon 1 went by Land to Alx in Pro- 
 J:X ' fence , an Univerfity, a Parliament Town, and one 
 
 of the neateH Towns in France * of the Parlia- 
 ment of this Town Monfieur du Fair was the 
 fir if Prcfident^ and a lingular Ornament, by 
 rcafon of his famous Eloquence. This Town 
 is the Seat of an Archbifhop, and is now pofifef- 
 fed by Cardinal Grimaldi,^ bo is Archbijhop here. 
 From hence I went to Marftilks. 
 
 Marfdlks. Mar falls i is a very ancient down, built 633 
 years before our Saviour’s time, and fo famous 
 anciently for learning, that it was compared 
 with Athens. It Hands upon the Mediterranean 
 Sea, and hath a moH neat Haven and Harbour 
 for Ships and Galleys. 1 Hay’d here eight days 
 to wait upon the return of two Galleys of Ge- 
 noa, that had brought an. Emhafladour from 
 thence into France, and were to return with- 
 in a few days, In this time i had leifure to 
 make a little cxcurfive Voyage to the famous 
 t& Stints place of Devotion called La Same Beamne, 
 Beaume. w here S. Mary Magdalen lived a moH peniten- 
 ce Thro- tial life in thefe Mountains and Defarts, even 
 nius F. An. after fine had been allured of her Pardon by 
 c Vdm s om * $ av * our himfelf : the place itfelf is able to 
 collie. any Man that confidereth it well melt in- 
 Gerard of to fome Pennance too, and figlu at leaH, to fee 
 Naxareth, how much file (a Woman) did,and how little he 
 (a Man) doth for excellent iff ma anhnadverten- 
 '/ ; t i, ne mdiocria rgaidem pr aft are, rubor i oportet effe, 
 
 i .nth a great Author. In Marftilks it felf there 
 Vrd. remain fome prints of .her begun Pennance > 
 Muir. >7 • but Hie that had been a Sinner in the City (and 
 / perchance by that occafion only) thought the 
 ciU! " Lefan afafer place, and fo ftitw’d her Conver- 
 
 fiort 
 
fart I. aOopagetOlTALY. 35 
 
 fion to be true, by flying the occafions of her 
 former Sins. 
 
 If you ask md how Mary Magdalen came hi- See Barone 
 ther, I muft ask you how Jofeph of An math ea 
 came into England and learned Baronins will cautFn 
 anfwer us both, by telling us, that upon a Per- chalfm , 
 fecution raifed again ft the Chriflians in Hieru- and Monf. 
 fak?n, Mary Magdalen , her Sifter Martha , her du v * lr * 
 Brother Lazarus , with Jofeph of Armatheafiud 
 divers others of the firft Chriftjam, were expo- 
 fed to Sea in a Ship without Sails, without Rud- 
 ; der, without Anchor, without Pilot, and yet 
 the Ship came happily to Mar fettles , where La- 
 | writs preaching the Faith of Ghrift, was made 
 i the firft Bilhop of this Town, aiid Jofeph of 
 j Arimathea came into England . 
 
 Near to Sainte Bemrne ftands the Town of 
 | 5 . Maximin , famous for the Church of S.Maxi* s. Maxi- 
 1 min, govern’d by Dominican Friars. In this min. 
 
 ! Church are to be feen many famous Relinks of 
 j S. Mary Magdalen, as her Head in a Cryftal 
 ! Cafe enchafed in Gold *, her Body m a gilt 
 Chaffe, and divers other rich things. 
 
 Having feen MarfeUles, , I embarked in the 
 Torefaid Gallies^ and was nine days in them 
 I before I arrived at Genoa , having feen in the 
 way Toulon, Nice , Antiho , Monaco , Savona, 
 which brought us to Genoa . 
 
 Thus I palled, though tedioufly yet fecurely, 
 from France into Italy by Sea ^ and 1 could al~ 
 moft vvilh my Traveller to take the fame courfe 
 if he were furc to find two Galleys fo well 
 ! manned, as I did, to carry him thither ^ other- 
 wife to venture himfelf (as Men ordinarily 
 with extraordinary danger do) in a little FeNca^ 
 
 D 2 a Boat 
 
3 6 $ td I T AL Ye Part t 
 
 a Boat little bigger than a pair of Oars," is a 
 Tyrrbo di- thing I would wifil none to do but Tyrrhenians^ 
 cebM,mUi z ^ Indifferent*^ who think danger and fecurity 
 be the f ame thing. For my part, though I 
 & mnern. & are not fay with that cowardly Italian, who 
 being laughed at for his running away in a Bat- 
 tel , anfwer’d, I was not afraid , to o»/y /W ^ w/W 
 to try how long a Man's Skin well kept would l aft •* 
 Yet I dale fay with generous CatOy that I re- 
 pent me foundly, if ever I went by Water 
 when I could have gone by Land. 
 
 My Third Voyage. 
 
 Sk ’ 
 
 M Y third Voyage into Italy was again by 
 the way of Paris and Lyons y but now by 
 Geneva and Swifferland. 
 
 Farting then from Lyons y I pa fled over the 
 Grand Credo , a fmart Hill, through Nantua 
 itanding upon a Lake, and in two days came to 
 Geneva. 
 
 Gentva. Geneva is built at the bottom of Savoy r France 
 
 and Germany. 
 
 rhe iidn- The things which I faw in Geneva were thefe : 
 i. The great Church of S. Peter 7 the Cathedral 
 anciently of the Bifliop of this Town. In the 
 Quire I faw yet remaining the Pidures of the 
 twelve Prophets on one fide, and the Pidures of 
 the twelve Apoftles on the other fide, all engra- 
 ven in Wood • the Pidures alfo of theBleffed 
 Virgin Maryy and S. Peter , in one of the Win- 
 dows. Here alfo I faw the Tomb of the Duke 
 of Bouillon y General of the Army of Germansy 
 called then in France the Reiters , who in the Bat- 
 tel of A vine an were beaten by the Duke of 
 
 Gaifey 
 
Part h 91 dopage to I T A LX 
 
 Guife , and forced to fly to Geneva^ having loll* 
 1 800 of their Men upon the placo, moil: of 
 them with Charms about their Necks, which 
 , they thought would have made them (hot-free. 
 Mounting up to the Steeple, I faw a fair Bell 
 with a Crucifix caft upon it, and four good 
 pieces of Ordnance, that none may fay, the 
 Church of Geneva wants Fcclefiafiical Cannons , 
 And a little below, in the Bclfrey y there live in 
 feveral Chambers three or four Families. From 
 the top of this Church you have a fair profpeifb 
 ! upon the Lake and neighbouring Countries “ 
 which makes them brag here, that they can fee 
 from their Steeple into fix feveral Principal!- 
 j ties, to wit, their own-, France^ Savoy 7 Swiffer- 
 1 land, the Falefians , and the Franchccoimty z but 
 ; 1 told them, it would be a greater Brag .to fay, 
 that they could fee into no other Country or 
 ; Dominion but their own. 
 
 2. I faw the Arfenat, little, but well fibred 
 1 with defenfive Arms. They never forget to 
 fhew the Ladders of the Savoyards , who attem- 
 pted to furprize this Town by fading, but were 
 themfelves taken and beheaded a la chaude^ left 
 fome Prince (hould have interceded for them. 
 
 | 3. The Toxvn-houfc^ with the Chamber where 
 
 the Magifirates fit in CounfeL 
 
 4. They (hew’d me here a Library , but none 
 of the befa 
 
 The Government of this Town was an- 
 ciently Monarchical, and the Bilhopwas Prince 
 of it under the Duke of Savoy 3 but it is go- 
 vern’d by Laymen and Minifters of Calvin s 
 way ^ yet the Bifliop keeps his Title (till, and 
 the Chapter its Revenues and Lands, which 
 
 D 3 lie' 
 
 '-A) 
 
38 & (Homage to I T A L Y. Part L 
 
 lie in Savoy, out of the Jnrifdiftion of Geneva : 
 Both the Bifliop and Chapter have, as I was 
 told, their Refidenee at Almfy in ’Savoy, and of- 
 ficiate in the Church of the Cordeliers. S. Fran- 
 ck de Sales , who made Four thoufand Sermons 
 to the People, was Bifhop of this See. 
 
 Having thus feen Geneva. , I made towards 
 Ths Lai e of s wijferland, leaving the Lake on rny right hand, 
 Geneva. or rather taking it on my right hand, for it 
 would needs accompany me to Lattfanna. 
 
 This Lake is absolutely the faireft I have 
 feen it’s fairer than either the Lake^jor, the 
 Lake of Como, the Lake of Zmc, the Lake of 
 IVaUinftade , the Lake of Ifee, the Lake of Ma- 
 rat, or the Lake of Garda . In fome places this 
 Lake of Geneva is eight miles broad, . and well 
 nigh fifty miles long. I have read of a ftranger 
 who travelling that way alone in Winter? when 
 the Lake was ail frozen over, and covered 
 with Snow, took the Lake for a large Plain, 
 and rid upon it eight or ten miles, to the Town, 
 where lighting at his Inn, and commanding the 
 fine Plain, over which he had ridden, was gi- 
 ven to underftand, that he had ridden, if not 
 jn the Air,at leaf! fifteen fathom above ground - 
 at which the poor man, receding upon the 
 danger he had been in, fell down dead with the 
 conceit of it. Thus we are troubled not only 
 at evils to come, but at evils pafl, and are ne- 
 *er fo near the danger of death, as when we are 
 newly paft it. ho Animal, but Man. hath this 
 Folly. 
 
 z ufanru . Laufamd is a T own in Swijferland, belonging 
 
 to the Canton of Berne. Here I law an ancient 
 Church of a noble Structure , and once a Bi- 
 
 ftops 
 
39 
 
 Part i. a aopage to italy. 
 
 ihops Cathedral, but now poflelfedby Miniflers 
 of Calvins Communion ^ and the man that 
 file wed us the Church (tho 7 not a Papift') told ^ 
 us 5 That the Records of that Church bore, that 
 Mpfs had been faid in it thirteen hundred years 
 ago. 
 
 From Lew} anna I went towards Solear, skirt- swiftr- 
 ing through the Cantons, fometimes of Berne, Und* 
 fometimes of Friburg , and fometimes in one 
 days Journey I paffed into a Papal Canton , and 
 by and by into g P rot eft ant Canton again, for 
 here Papift and Proteftant Villages are mingl’d 
 together, and make the Country look like the 
 back-fide of a pair of Tables, chequer’d with 
 white and black, in one Village you have a 
 Crofs fet up, to fignifie that it is Papal, be- 
 longing to the Canton of Friburg \ by and by, 
 in another Village, a high Flag with the picture ^ rn . e/ 5 ' 
 of a Bear in it, to fignifie that it belongs to ^cb Z 
 the Canton of Berne , and is Protellant •, andikar, 
 yet they live civilly and neighbourly together, 
 without quarreling about Religion. 
 
 Paflieg thus along, I came to Solesrr 9 ($blotter? Sol&r* 
 num in Latin) a neat Town, and head ofaCan- 
 ton: they are all Papifts here ^ and here it is 
 that the French Enibajfadors to the Swifter s al- 
 waics refide, as the Spanijh Emhaffadors do at 
 Lucerna. This Town is very ancient, as the 
 golden Letters upon the Clock telfifie, for Petros fs- 
 thofe words make Sole nr to be only younger miutlim in 
 than her Sifter Trevers , which, as *a£neas SyP Cmiolog . 
 vim writes, was built 1 300 years before Rowe, f ^ 
 As for Soleur , I find in good Chronologers that ^^f* 
 it was built 2030 years after the Creation of 
 t;he World . 
 
 D 4 From 
 
4 ° 
 
 Murat . 
 
 The Lake 
 of Murat. 
 
 3 eiapage to I T A L Y. Parti. 
 
 From Soleur I went to Murat, a little Town 
 famous for a great Battle fought hard by it, 
 by the Duke of Burgundy and the Srvijfers ; for 
 the Duke cf Burgundy befieging Murat, the 
 Swiffers came upon him with a great Army, 
 and defeated him. I was told here, that the 
 Duke feeing his Army defeated, and himfelf 
 environ’d on one fide by a Lake that is here, 
 and on the other fide by theEnemies conquer- 
 ing Army, chofe rather to truft himfelf to the 
 Lake than to his Enemies ; whereupon fpurring 
 his Horfe into the Lake, one of his Pages, to 
 fave himfelf alfo, leaped up behind him as he 
 took Water ; the Duke out &f fear either per- 
 ceived him not at firft, or diffembled it till he 
 came to the other fide of the Lake,which is two 
 miles broad: the (lout Horfe tugged through 
 w ith them both, and faved them both from 
 drowning, but not both from death ; for the 
 Duke feeing in what danger his Page had put 
 him, fobbed the Page with his Dagger Poor 
 Prince! thou might’fl have given another Of- 
 fering of Thankfgiving to God for thy efcape 
 than this • nay, thou might’ft have been as ci- 
 vil as thy Horfe ; thou might’ft at leaft have 
 fav ? d thy Honour, hadfl thou fav’d a wretched 
 Page, who had offended rather out of fear of 
 Death than out of Malice • and thereby too 
 have truly faid, thou hadfl not loft all thy Men 
 in that Battel : but Paflion is a blind thing; 
 nothing is fo dangerous to Man as Man ; and 
 as I obferved above, we are never in greater 
 danger than when we think our feives efcap’d. 
 The Bones of the Burgundians, flain in this Batj- 
 ?el are feen in a great Chapel, which ftands a 
 
 little 
 
Part I. 9 2l0pap to I T A L Y. 41 
 
 little diftant from the Town, and upon the 
 Road, with a; uifcription upon it touching the 
 time and tiieumftances cf this Defeat. 
 
 From Mnun 1 made towards Zaric , a head 
 Town altb of a Canton. It Hands moft fweetly 
 upon a Lake, whofe Cry ftalline Waters would 
 delight any body elfe but Swijfers. They are 
 all here Followers of Zwinglwj and they tell 
 us, when Marefchal d'Eftree, the French Embaf- 
 fador to Rome , palled that way r> and lodged at 
 the great Inn of the Sword , as he was combing 
 his Flead one morning in his Combing-cloth, 
 with his Chamber-window open, fome of the 
 Townfmen, who faw him (from another oppo- 
 fite Window) putting on that Combing-cloth, 
 and thinking it had been a Frieil putting on 
 the Amice, and veiling himfelf for to fay Mate 
 before the Embaffador in his Chamber, began 
 with a Dutch clamour to ftir up the People to 
 a Mutiny about the Embaflador’s Houfe, and to 
 call for the Prielt that was faying of Mafs : the 
 Embafiador at firft, not understanding the caufe 
 of this Uproar about his Houfe, ran down with 
 Sword in hand, and in his Combing-cloth, to 
 check the fir ft Man that Should dare to enter 
 his Lodgings j but underftanding at laft that 
 his Combing-cloth had caufed this Jealoufie,he 
 laughed at their Folly, and retired away con-^ 
 tented. 
 
 The beft things to be feen in Zuri* are 
 thefe : 
 
 1. The neat Jrfenal , furnifli’d with ftore of 
 fair Cannons and Arms of all forts. 
 
 2 . The great Library , but in this much lefs 
 efteem’d by me, becaufe a Woman had the Key 
 
 of 
 
42 
 
 9 Sopag e to ITALY. Part L. 
 
 of it, and let us in to fee it. This piece o* 
 falfe Latin at the entrance difgu fired me with 
 all that 1 faw there, and made me haften out 
 quickly: Good Libraries ' fiiould not fall m 
 
 qnenoHike. 
 
 3. The Wheels which draw up Water from 
 the Lake of themfelves, and empty it into fe- 
 veral Pipes, and fo convey it all over the 
 Town. 
 
 4. The publick great Drinking Hall , where 
 there are a world of little tables for Men of 
 feveral Corporations or Trades to meet at, 
 and either talk there of their Bufmefs, or make 
 drinking their Bufmefs. Over every Table 
 hangs the fign of each Trade ^ as, a Laft for 
 Shoemakers, a Saddle for Sadlers, a Sword for 
 Cutlers, &c . there is a great Bell that rings 
 to this meeting-place every day at two a clock, 
 and when 1 heard fo folemn a ringing, I thought 
 it had been to fome Church- devotion^ not to a 
 drinking Afiembly. 
 
 a Jong From Zuric 1 went by Water, that is upon 
 Sndg?. the pake, a whole days Journey, and paifed 
 under a Br idge of Wood which crofied quite 
 over the Lake for two miles. It’s entertained 
 at the coft of the King of Spain, to pafs the 
 Souldiers which he often raifeth in the adja- 
 cent Countries. 
 
 Coir s. From hence I went to Coire, or Gear, the 
 
 head Town of the Grifons , the Bilhop and 
 the Clergy of the great Church, with fome 
 few other living within the Preci lifts of the 
 Cloyfter of the' great Church, are Papifts, and 
 perform their Devotions in the Church with- 
 out controul *, the reft of the Inhabitants are 
 
 Zwia* 
 
Part-" to ITALY, !' 45 
 
 7 ,-••• 'ffefs the Town, yet they * 
 
 fuffe: ch - : ' nd his Clergy to live quiet- 
 ly ii"- o them. They Ihe wed me here 
 
 \ in this Church divers fine Relicks, efpeeially 
 
 the Be d (enchafed in Silver) of our ancient s Luc . 
 Brttijh King Lucius, the fir ft Chriftian King tBsffift 1 * 
 that ever made pyofeffion of Chriftian Religi- chriftian 
 on, and the fir ft who help’d to plant it here. Ki”g* 
 The ancient Church* Office here relates all this, 
 as their Books (hewed me. 
 
 From the Griffins I went to the Country of The Vahar 
 the Futtaim, a Country fubject to the Griffins, line * 
 and keeping its Fidelity to them , even when it 
 would not have wanted sffiftance from Spain 
 and Italy if it would have been falfe to itsSu- 
 perionrs the Griffins, under the colour of Reli- 
 gion • thofe of the Faltaline being all Papifts , 
 and their Soveraigns the Griffins , Cahmfts . In 
 a little Town of the Griffins (called Herberga) 
 
 I was ftiew’d a Cheefe fand given to taft of it 
 too) by mine Hoft, the Mayor of the Town, a 
 Gahinifl in Religion, and a venerable old man, 
 who allured me ferioufly, that that Cheefe 
 was an hundred years old : a Venerable Cheefe 
 indeed. 
 
 Between thefe two Countries of the Griffins 
 and the Faltaline ftands the great Hill Berlino , Mount 
 over which I palled, and fell from thence upon 
 Poffiiavo , a little Bourg, and fo to ourLadiesof 
 Tirano , a neat Church, with a fair Inn hard 
 by it. 
 
 Others, to avoid the Snow of Berlino , are 
 forced now and then (as I was once) topafs o- 
 verthe Mountain Splug, which is Hill enough Le Splug* 
 for any Traveller. 
 
 From 
 
44 
 
 Mount 
 Amigo, 
 The Lakes 
 of Wallin- 
 fct.ad.£, and 
 licew. 
 
 . 
 
 77v Vde- 
 
 aUirt'S,. 
 
 21 SOpage tO I T A L Y. Part L 
 
 From our Ladies of Tirana I went up a 
 ftnart Hill called Mount Aurigo, and fo making 
 towards the Lake of Wallmftade, I patted it over 1 
 in a Boat, as I did alfoxfoon after that of Jfie y 
 and fo fell into the Territories of Brefcja in 
 Italy , belonging to the State of Venice. 
 
 My fourth Voyage* 
 
 M Y fourth Voyage into Italy was from 
 Lyons again and Geneva, where I now 
 took the Lake on my left hand, and pairing a- 
 long the skirts of Savoy, 1 came to Boveretta , a 
 little Village, and fo to St. Maurice , the firft 
 Town in the Flalefians Country. This Town is ! 
 , fo called from St. Mmrjfe, the brave Comman- , , 
 der of the Theban Legion, in the primitive 
 times, and who was martyr'd here for the pro- 
 feflion of Chriftian Religion, together with his 
 whole Legion. Hence an Abbey was built 
 here by Sigifmmid King of Burgundy, and called 
 St. Maurice . 
 
 Now this Country is called the Country of 
 the V* defiant, from the perpetual Valley in 
 which it lieth. The People have for their Prince 
 the Biihopof S/o»,the chief Town of the Coun- 
 try : their Valley is above four days Journey 
 long, befides their Hills,* which are two more : 
 Molt of their little Towns and Villages Hand 
 upon Hill-fides, leaving all the plain Country 
 for tillage and pafturage : their Houfes are. 
 low and dark, many of them having no Win- 
 dows, and the reft very little ones. Sed cafa pvjr- 
 naces Curios angufia tegebat. As for the People 
 here, they are ail Papifts, and feem to be honeft 
 
 Men 3 
 

 S>art I. 91 SOPagC to I T A L Y. 
 
 Men, of flout courage, and of innocent lives, 
 much Snow quenching their Luft, and high 
 Mountains Having off from them all Luxury 
 and Vice : they have Ihott Hair on their Heads, 
 but Beards in folio ' they are got fo far in to the 
 grande mode, as to wear Breeches and Doublets, 
 but that’s all, for otherwife their Clothes look 
 as if they had been made by the Taylors of the 
 old Patriarchs , or as if theFafhion of them had 
 been taken out of old Hangings and Tapeflry. 
 
 In fine, both Men and Women here are great 
 and maffive, and not eafily to be blown away ; 
 fo that I may juflly fay of this People as Cardi- 
 nal Bentivoglio faid of the Swifter s , that They arc 
 good for the j4lp.es t and the Alpes for them . One 
 thing I obferved particularly in this windy 
 Country, which is, that they have many natu- 
 ral Fools here, which makes me think it no 
 vulgar Error which is commonly faid, that the 
 Climates that are mo ft agitated with Winds produce 
 more Fools than other Climates, do. 
 
 As for their Strength, upon adefenliveocc^- Their 
 fion, they can alienable Forty thoufand Men to- strength.* 
 gether under their known Commanders, who 
 are oftentimes the Innkeepers, in whofeHoufes 
 we lodge *, but out of their own Pit they are 
 not to be feared, having neither Spirits nor Si- 
 news, that is, neither Ambition nor Money to 
 carry on a foreign War, 
 
 From S. Maurice I went ffo Martigni , a great Martigni, 
 Inn in a poor Village, and from thence to 
 Sion. 
 
 Sion (anciently Sedmum ) is the chief Town Sion. 
 of the Country, and Hands in the center of it. 
 
 Here the Bifhop, who is Prince, relideth with 
 
 his 
 
4 <5 
 
 Jle bsft 
 Guards of 
 a Prince . 
 
 Plus tuta' 
 tur amor. 
 
 luck. 
 
 3ngn, 
 
 Mount 
 
 Samp/on, 
 
 $O0£8geta IT ALY. Part L 
 
 his Chapter and Cathedral on one Hill, and his 
 Cattle ftands on another Hill hard by. The 
 Court of this Prince is not great, becaufe of 
 his and his Peoples quality. A good Bilhop 
 hath fornething elfe to do than to be courted, 
 and good plain People mutt follo w their Trades, 
 not Courts . This Prince hath no Guards, be- 
 caufe no Fears * and if Dangers fhould threa- 
 ten him, his People, whofe Love is his only 
 Arfenal, have hands enough to defend him. So 
 that the Prince and People, that is, the Body 
 Politick of this State, and the Soul that ani- 
 mates it, feem’d to me like the Body natural in 
 Man, where the Soul and the Body confpire 
 together for their mutual Felicity. 
 
 From Sion I -went to Lucia, but lodged a 
 quarter of a mile from the Town, and from 1 
 thence I reached Briga at night 
 
 Briga is a little Village, ftanding at the foot 
 of great Hills -, where having retted well all 
 night at the ColonePs Floufe (the bett Inn here) 
 we began the next morning to climb the Hills 
 for a Breakfatt. For the {pace of three hours 
 our Florfes eafed us, the a fee at not being fo 
 furly as we expe&ed from fo rugged a browcf 
 Hills ^ but when we came to the tteep of the 
 Hill it felf. Mount Sampson, (one of the great 
 Stair-cafcs of Italy) we were forced to comple- 
 ment our Horfes, and go a foot. It was to- 
 wards the very beginning of. October when we 
 patted that way, and therefore found that Hill 
 in a good humour, other wife it’s fro ward e- 
 nough. Having in one hours time crawi’d up 
 the tteep of the Hill, we had two hours more 
 riding to the Village and Inn of Sampm, where 
 
47 
 
 fart I. SI Qcpage to ITALY. 
 
 arriving, we found little Meat, and poor 
 Drink j cold Entertainment, tho* in a hot Sea - 
 fon. • 
 
 At lad, having paid for a Dinner here, tho’ 
 we faw nothing we could eat, we were the 
 jighter in Purfe, as well as in Body* to walk 
 well that afternoon, rather than that after-din- 
 i ner. To defcribe you the rough way we had 
 between Sampon and Devedra , down Hill al- 
 ways, or fetching about Hills upon a narrow 
 : way artificially made out of the fide of thofe 
 Hills, and fometimes (licking out of them, as if 
 it had been plailter’d to them, were able to 
 make my Pen akein writing it, as well as my 
 Legs in walking it. And here I found the Pro- 
 verb falfe, which faith, That ids good walking 
 with a Hor/e in ones Hand , for here we could 
 neither ride nor lead our Horfes fecurely, but 
 either the one or the other were in danger of 
 flumbling, that is, of falling five hundred fa- 
 thom deep j for here, as well as in War ,ftmel 
 t ant' urn pccatur, a Man need but Humble once 
 for all his life-time : yet by letting our Horfes 
 go loofe, with the Bridle on their Necks, and 
 making a Man go before each Horfe, led they 
 fhould jumble one-anotber down, as I once faw 
 the like done by Horfes in Swijferland, we arri- 
 ved fafely at JDtvedra that night. You would 
 do well alfo to light from Horfe at the going 
 over all the little trembling Bridges of Wood 
 which you will find there, remembring the 
 Italian Proverb, which faith, Quando tu Fedi m 
 falli pa honor e che tu non fat a an Conte . 
 
 Ha- 
 
 Devedrd* 
 
4 S 
 
 DomoAo- 
 
 J'cela • 
 
 Margufti 
 Lake Ma- 
 jor. 
 
 Seflo. 
 
 Civ it a Ca 
 (lellan^a. 
 
 Mount Ai- 
 gue belle t. 
 
 a Voyage to I T A L Y. Part & 
 
 Having repofedall night in the Houfe of the 
 Signor Caftellano, we went the next Morning 
 to Domodofcela , a little Garrifon Town of the 
 State of Milan, tr^ublefome enough to f Tra- 
 vellers that pafs from Milan this way, and car- 
 ry Piftols and Guns without Licenfe. 
 
 From Domodofcela we palled through a fine 
 . plain Country to Mdrguzjzj, a little Village 
 Handing upon the Lake Major y (anciently ealPd 
 LactisKerbanus) where making our bargainwith 
 our Boat-men, to carry us in one day from 
 thence to Sefto, and keep aloof off from the 
 command of all the Caftles, which now and 
 then warn Boats to come in, and under pre- 
 tence of fearching t’ era for Merchandife, flop 
 Paffengers till they have fcrew’d a piece of 
 Money out of them. 
 
 .Arriving fafe at Seflo that night, we took 
 Coach the next day for Milan , and Dining at 
 Chita Caftelianza , arrived betimes at that great 
 Town which was call’d anciently Mera Roma, 
 
 a fecond Rome . 
 
 My Fifth Voyage. 
 
 v . r' ■ \ 
 
 M Y Fifth Voyage into Italy was HiH from 
 Lyons, but now by the way of Mount Ce- 
 nts and Turin, the ordinary Poll-road, and I 
 think the eafielt way of all the reft.. 
 
 Parting, then from Lyons on Horfeback, we 
 puffed through F'erpillier, La Tour du Fin , Beau - 
 voyfin, (whole Bridge parts France and Savoy) 
 and came in two days to the foot of Mounts 
 Aigtiebcliet , the Threshold of the sllpes • this is 
 a pretty breathing Hill, and may be called 
 
 afoul 
 
49 
 
 Part I. a mm Z W 1 T AL Y, 
 
 afoul Draught of the Alpes, or the Alpes in arun- 
 nin % Hand, and not in that fair Text-hand which 
 I found Mount Cem to be in. It hath all the Li- 
 neaments and Shapes of the great Alpes ? that 
 is, much winding and turning, deep Precipices, 
 
 Marons, or Men with little open Chairs, to car- 
 ry you up and down the Hill for a Crown, and 
 jnuch Humbling work. In fine, this Hill re- 
 fembles Mount Cents, as a proper Man may do 
 a Giant. 
 
 Having pafled this Hill, and by it through 
 the very Clouds, we fell as it were out of the 
 Skies upon Chambery, the chief Town of Savoy , Cbamb&y. 
 and where the Parliament refides. 
 
 We call to be there at the folerrin Entry, 
 which this Duke made for his new Spoufe, the 
 third Daughter of the late Duke of Orleans, 
 when fhe came firft into this Country. To de- the Entry 
 fcribe all the Triumphal Arches in the Streets, oftheVuke 
 with their Emblems and Motto’s rarely paint- ^ r D f 
 ed *, jthe (lately Throne a little out of the Town, 
 where the Duke and Duchefs received the com- 
 plements of their Subjedh ; the rich Liveries 
 of the young Townfmen on Horfeback ^ the 
 Glailantry of the Noblemen and Gentlemen of the 
 Country (800 in all) with their Horfes as fine 
 as they j the Parliament-men, and other Officers 
 of jufiiee all in black Velvet Go wns> the tlergy 
 and Religious marching in the mean time hum- 
 bly a foot, and in proccffion the Duke’ s two 
 Companies of Horfe in Velvet Coats of crimfon 
 colour, embroider’d with Gold and Silver , the 
 Pages and Footmen of the Duke and Duchefs in 
 crimfon Velvet laid thick with Gold and Silver 
 Lace • iri fine, the Duke and Duchefs on Horfe- 
 
 E back. 
 
50 2 Oovaeje to I T A L Y. Part i. 
 
 back, as brillantas the Sun ^ would fill a Book 
 2 lone, which I have no mind to do. Teeing 
 there is one extant already in a juft Vo- 
 lume. 
 
 Leaving then Chamhery the next day after 
 Mr, ims- the Show, we went to- MontmdUn to dinner. 
 Tins is a fbrong Caftle upon a high Rock, over- 
 Ifjrt. looking the River 7/1?^ and commanding the 
 pafiage here, which is freight between the hills. 
 The Strength of this Caftle appear’d when it 
 with flood the Royal Army of Lewis the XIII. of 
 France for fifteen months, and made him raife 
 the Siege when he had done. Here is' flill a 
 ilrong Garrifar. in it, and itoreof Ammunition, 
 and all things necelfiiry, for the defence cf a 
 Ilrong place. They fhewM us in it their deep 
 Well for frefh Water, in* the midft of a high 
 Rock * their excellent pieces of Artillery , one 
 of which is faid to carry four miles, that is, to 
 Fort Bunco#} a little Fort belonging to France, 
 which is two leagues from hence ; and which 
 you fee from this Gallic. 
 
 Jsgttekll:* From Mont melt an we had rough way to Ai- 
 sFfohn guebtlk') thence to S. John Morlan, to S. -MichcL 
 ^% un ' and at la ft to lafnebonrg, which Hands at the 
 t ,r 'r\ foot of Mount Cans, the higneft of all the Hills 
 I paired over in my feveral Voyages into Italy , 
 or out of it, to wit, Sarny ion, Berlin, 5T//£,and 
 Sc Cndaarde. 
 
 This Hill of Momt Cans parting 'Savoy, arid 
 Italy, flail be the place Where 1 will now be- 
 £ in my Befcrlphn of Italy , having hitherto on* 
 •T : defcrlb’d the federal Ways into, it. - 
 
 Italy 
 
Fart I. aoopaffe to ITALY. 
 
 Italy defcribed, in a Voyage 
 
 thither. 
 
 B Eing arriv’d at the foot of Mount Cents , Mount 
 anciently called C'mfium , and havingreft- Cen ** 
 ed all night at Lafaebourg , \ye agreed with the 
 Marons to carry us, up the Hill, and .down the 
 Hill, as aifo over the .Plain, and in fine, ail the 
 way to Novalefe it feljf. All this is to be ex- 
 prefled in your bargain with them, otherwife 
 they will cavil with you, and make you go 
 over the Plain a foot : the price is, a Spanijh 
 F'iftole for every Man that’s carried ^ thofe 
 that are flrong and vigorous ride up upon 
 Mules, and walk down on foot. 
 
 We began to mount at our going out of our 
 Inn at Lafnebonrg] and having palled by Ln 
 Ramajfa, (where Men are polled down the 
 Hill upon the Snow in Sledges with great Ce- 
 lerity and Pleafure) after two hours tugging of 
 our Chairmen or Marons, we came to the top 
 of the Hill, and a little after to the Pofthoufe , 
 and a little Hofpital upon .the Plain thence 
 pahlng by the Chapel of the Iran [is, (that is, 
 of thofe who are found dead of. cold in the 
 Snow, and are buried here) we. came to the 
 great Crofs and Tavern , where we began to de- 
 fend, This Hill of Mount Cents is four miles 
 
 E 2 in 
 
5 a 
 
 Xo^tkjh 
 
 Sufi , 
 
 Ze pas de 
 Safe. 
 
 Tkdvrom. 
 S* Ambro- 
 fiO. 
 
 Rfiolle, 
 
 Turin, 
 
 The Oliver 
 Po. 
 
 Petr at a S, 
 l\omttaJdc , 
 C>o. j. 
 
 a tlopgC to I T ALY* Part % 
 
 in the going up, four miles upon the plain, 
 and two in its defeent to Novdefe . 
 
 Arriving about noon at Novdefe, we dined, 
 faorfed, and went that night to Sufa. 
 
 Sufa, aticiently Segefurm, is a flrong Town, 
 and one of the Gates of Italy •, for this reafon 
 the French, in their long War with Spaing pt 
 it a long time in their hands, as well as Pjgne- 
 rol , to let them into Italy when they pleas'd. 
 Its Strength cohlifts wholly in a Caftle built 
 upon a high Rock ciofe to the Town, and 
 commanding all the paffage betwixt the two 
 Mountains. This Town is famous in the lat- 
 ter Hiftory for the frnart Aftionof the French. , 
 when they beat down the twelve feveral Bar- 
 Tiers, whereby the Duke of Savoy thought to 
 have clioak-ed their pailage : this Afiion is fa- 
 mous in Hiflory, by the name of k pas de Safe. 
 Here at Safa begins Pkdrapnt, 
 
 From Snfit we went to S. Ambrofo , and puf- 
 fed by Rivolie, a fine Houle of the DukRs, ftand- 
 fftg in a good Air, and at flight we came to 
 Turin, \ ' 
 
 Turin, aliciently called Auffifa Takrinorutn , 
 is fituated in a Plain, near the" foot of the Hills, 
 and upon the Banks of the River To , which 
 begins here to be navigable, and from hence 
 carries Boats to Ferrara , Chiofa , and Venice, 
 This Po is a noble River, and very large in 
 fome places, tfpeciallra little below Ferrara -, 
 yet I have read, that in a great drouth which 
 happen’d in the year of the World 2476, it 
 was dry’d np and render’d innavigable. 
 
Parti. aaTopage to ITALY. ' 51 
 
 This Turin js the Seat of one. of the greatdb 
 Trims in Jtdy , the Duke of Sfdy, and 
 of Piedmont, who is alfo treated 
 
 of Jltetxa Reale, and Kicano Generate Gntsaef*. 
 
 in Italia. This Houfe of Savoy, w hich now. go- ^^*4 
 verns here, came anciently from 
 Kine of Saxony, in the year of Chrift ( 5 36' and 
 hath conferved itfelfever fin£e,tha'tis, for a 
 thoufand and odd years, in a continual femes ot 
 Heroical Princes, whofe Pedigree was never 
 vitiated nor interrupted by any degenerate 
 Offspring. Five Emperors and foui Kings have 
 
 ifliied out of this Houfe. 
 
 Anciently the Dukes of Savoy Kept then 
 Court at Chamhry , or elfe at Ronrg en Sreffe, 
 a Country now belonging t oFranee, upon ex- 
 change with the Marquifate of Salstz&o, as ma- 
 ny of their tombs curioufly cut in Marble m 
 the Amfiins Church there, yet fhew. It was 
 Amadec, the fifth of that Name, Duke of Savoy, 
 that transferr T d the Court to Turin. It was 
 alfo this Jmadeo, who in the memory or his 
 Grandfather Amadeo the IV, who had defend- 
 ed Rhodes fo bravely,inftituted the K nighthood 
 of the Ann unci at a. ^ with this (ingle Motto in the 
 Collar of the Order, F. £. R. T * iignifying,that 
 Fortitude! Ejus Rhodum Tenuit* 
 
 The Subjects of this Prince are faid to m 
 bout eighteen hundred thoufand Souls. 
 whole Country with Piedmont and all, is judged 
 
 ■tries ex- 
 '.test* 
 
 w UaZ, V- VKfifif y mm ♦ r - ^ 
 
 to be two hundred miles long, and nlty pro*& 
 
 His Forces thirtv three thoufand Foot, and fivq BUFme^ 
 thoufand Horfe'- and his Revenues to be about Ssve*xu 
 a million of Crowns, befides what ne can now 
 and then raife out of that fat Country of Pied- 
 
54 3 ©opage to I T A L Y. Part 1. 
 
 Eis im~ wont. His Int&eft is to keep well with France , 
 re ft‘ and not fall out with Spain . 
 
 The Town As for the Town it (elf of Turin, it’s almoH 
 of Turin. fquare,and hath four Gates in it, a Hrong Cit~ 
 tadel with five BaHionsto it • its well furnifhed 
 with good Provifions in the Market,*, it Hands 
 in a fat foil, which makes it a little too dirty in 
 Winter *, and it is a llniverfity. 
 ns things The chief which I faw here, were 
 
 to befeen thefe. 
 
 in Turin. i. The Dowo , or Great Church , in which 
 ThsHoiy is kept with great Devotion the Holy Syndon, 
 syndon. wherein they fay our Saviour’s Body was wound 
 Baronius up and buried : It’s kept in a Chapel over the 
 EccUEift. High Altar, and fhown publickly upon certain 
 ad Av.i 4 . days, an d privatly to Embaffadors and Prelates 
 :mm. 138. as t h e y pafs that way. The late Dutchefs, 
 Madam Chriftiana *, began to make a fine Cha- 
 pel for to keep it in, but it was not quite fini- 
 ihed -when 1 pafied that way laft. The Chapel 
 is all of black Marble, adorned with ftately 
 black Marble Pillars : Indeed winding Sheets 
 ( fuch as this Rclic'k is ) are things of mourn- 
 ing , and are beft fet out in a mourning 
 way. 
 
 The cma - 2 * The Cittadell, Handing at the back of the 
 
 ML * Town, and keeping it in awe, ThisDukeand 
 his Mother fohnd the Convenience of this Cit- 
 tadell , when by FaSions within the Town 
 againH them, they were forced to this Citta* 
 dell , and there weather it out Hourly, Hill fuc- 
 cour coming to them from France , madethem 
 MaHexs again of the Town, and their Ene^ 
 mieSo • 
 
 3, The 
 
Part 1 . Ct dopngC to I T A L Y. 5 5 
 
 3. The Duke’s new FaUce iVndlbmly. built Tbs Puiac* 
 with a fair Court before it, a great jPS& 4 if,and 
 
 a large open ftreet leading up it. The Cham- 
 bers are fair, and hung with hangings of Cloth 
 of Tyffue, of a new and rich Fabrick, with rich 
 embroidered Beds, Chairs, Stool's, Cloth of 
 State, and Canopies, Here yau have the 
 Dutchcffes Cabinet, the.curioJS Bathing -placet a- 
 bove, hung round with the true Pictures in 
 Little of the prime Ladies of Europe. The cu- 
 rious invention for the Dutchefs to convey her Ba '\ 
 felf np from her Bed-Chamber to that Bathing 
 Room, by a Pully and a fwing, with great 
 eafe and fafety : the great Hall painted cur i- 
 duffy : the Noble Stair Cafe : the old long 
 Gallery 100 paces long, with the Pictures in it 
 of the Princes and Princcffss of the Houle of ,$V Tfctid 
 voy, with the Statues of the antrent Emperours Gzl ^> 
 and Philofophers inmarble,witha rare Librar y 
 locked np in great Cupboards : Thefeare the 
 chief Rooms and Ornaments of this Palace, I 
 few alfo the Apartments or Lodgings of the 
 ' old Dutchefs, Madam Chrifiiana, which' jova 
 to the Old Gallery, and in her Cabinet 1 few 
 many choice ; iefures. 
 
 4. The New- ft reetpv hie h runneth from the 'The. jsr<n*r . 
 
 Palace to the Piazza Re ale, is a fair Rreet,and/t r «r, 
 built uniformly. The flops below afford great 
 conveniency to the Towns-men, andthefeir 
 lodgings above to the Noblemen and Cour- 
 tiers. ' \ ‘" v ' • ■ ’ ' ' l 
 
 5. The Piazza Rc ate is built ha nd fa rpely up- The Yin 
 on Pillars, like oar Covent Garden: and? is full fuaie* 
 of nothing dfe but Noblemens Houles. 
 
5 6 
 
 Au- 
 guftins 
 Church . 
 
 7 he Capu.- 
 clvns 
 Church . 
 
 La Vcne- 
 ry Roya- 
 
 La Valen 
 tine. 
 
 a Qopagc to I T AL Y. Parti. 
 
 6. The j4ttgufiins Church , called St, Carto 0 
 {landing in this Piazza, adorns it much, being 
 a neat Church, and the bell contrived that 1 
 faw in this 1 own. 
 
 7. The Capuchins Church upon a.hiil out of 
 the Town, is above the rate of Capuchins * but 
 you muft know who gave it, not who have it. 
 From hence I had a perfed view of Turin^ with - 
 the Country about it. 
 
 8. Some three miles out of the Town,! faw 
 a neat Houfe of the Dukes, called La Venery 
 Roy ale. The Court fet round with Staggs- 
 Heads , the Chambers full of good Pidures • 
 the Hall painted with great Pidures of the 
 Duke, his Mother, his Sifters, and other Ladies 
 all on Horfeback, as if they were going a Hunt- 
 ing ^ the Place where they keep Phefants , Par- 
 tridges , and other fuchlike Birds ^ the Stable 
 for 100 Horfe, and the neat Dogkennel, are 
 the beft things to be feen in this Houfe. 
 
 9. On the other fide of the Town, about a 
 " mile off, I faw the old Dutchefles Houfe called 
 • La Valentine . It ftands pleafantly upon the 
 
 Banks of Po, and is adorned with great varie- 
 ty of Pidures. In five or fix Rooms, on the right 
 hand of the Houfe., they (hewed me a world 
 of Pidures of all forts of Flowers : on the left 
 hand as many of all forts of Birds, with other 
 Pidures curionfly painted. The four Pidures 
 reprefenting the four Elements, with all that 
 belongs to them y as, all the Birds that fly in the 
 Air y all the Beafis that are found upon the 
 Earth ail the Bjhes and (hells x that are found in 
 tfie Water *, and all things that belong to Fire. y 
 are fo curionfly painted in their feveral parti- 
 cular 
 
Part I. Si SJopage tO I T A L Y. 57; 
 
 cular (bapes and colours, tliat thefe four Pieces 
 are an abridgment of all Nature .and the ad mi- 
 ration of all that behold them. There arc fome 
 other good pieces here too • as, the Magdalen. 
 fallen into an.extafie ; the Raft of the Sabins, 
 and divers others. 
 
 The other Houfes about the Town, as Mil- 
 kfleur. belonging to the Duke; the Villa of the 
 Princefs ’Mary ; with divers others which fhew 
 themfelves upon the Hill fide, are very (lately, 
 and worth feeing. 
 
 Having thus feen Tam, we left the ordinary From Tu- 
 Road which leads to Milan, to wit, by the way t0 ^ 
 of Vercelle and Novara, two ftrong towns, fron- 
 tier to one. another, through which I pafled in 
 another Voyage, and to avoid two Armies 
 which lay in the way, chofe to deer towards 
 Genoa by the low way of Savona ; and palling 
 through a melancholy Country, by Alt are and 
 other little towns for the fpace of three days, 
 we came at lad to Savona . 
 
 Savona (anciently called Sabatia or Sab at turn) Avon** 
 is the. fecond Town, or elded Daughter of Ge- 
 noa, and jik*e a good Daughter indeed fne Hands 
 always in her Mothers pre fence, yet keeps her 
 didance ; it being within fight of Genoa , yet 
 five and twenty miles off. It fiends upon the 
 Mediterranean Sea , or, as they call it here, upon 
 the Riviera di Genoa, It's fortified both by An 
 and Nature, that is, by regular Fortifications 
 towards the Sea, and by ludy Affennine Hills 
 towards the Land. YetwhildS^c^ fear’d no 
 danger from either Sea or Land, it was almoft 
 ruin’d in the year 1648, by Fire from Heaven, 
 to wit. Lightning,-, which falling upon a. great 
 
5§ %mm* to I T A L Y. Part t 
 
 Tower in the mid ft of the Town, where Gun- 
 powder was kept, blew it up upon a fudden, 
 and with it threw down two hundred Houfes 
 round aboifi: it, and Houfes of note. For, paf- 
 fing that way fix months after, and walking a- 
 mong the Ruins, I faw in many of the Houfes, 
 which were but half fallen clown, curious pain- 
 ted Chambers, and fine gilt Roofs,’ which 
 {hew'd me of what Houfe many of thefe Hou- 
 les had been; and of what weak defence gilt 
 Roofs and painted Walls are again ft the Ar- 
 tillery of Heaven, Thunder and Lightning. 
 
 This Town is famous in Hiftory for the In- 
 terview of two'great Kings here, to wit, Lewis 
 the X 1 1 of France , and Ferdinand King of Naples . 
 This Interview pafted with demonftrations of 
 muturfl civilities, not ordinary in Interviews of 
 Princes ; for Lewis feared n6t to go into the 
 Galleys and Ships of Ferdinand without Guards 
 and unarm’d and Ferdinand remain’d for ma- 
 ny days together in this Town, belonging then 
 to Lewis i whom he had lately ftripp’d of the 
 Kingdom of Naples , and beaten him to boot in 
 a Battel. 
 
 Of this Town were Julius See an dm and Sixtus 
 Qjsartm, two Popes of the Houfe of Roueri ; 
 and two great Cardinals, Peter and Raphael 
 Riar iu 
 
 Embarking at Savona in a Felucca, we row’d 
 id Ri v'w\x along the Shore (call cl la Riviere di Genoa) un- 
 riGetm. to Genoa it feif ; and all the way long we faw 
 inch a continual Suburbs of [lately Villas and 
 Villages , that thefe fcantlings made us in love 
 with the whole piece it felf, Genoa , I confefs, I 
 never faw a more [lately abord to any City 
 
 than 
 
Parti. 3 (Homage to I T ALX 59 
 
 than to this , and if we had not had Genoa ful} 
 in our fight ail the way long, we fiiould have ta- 
 ken fome of thefe Hately Villages for Genoa it 
 felf, and have imitated Hoftfngiis, the Leaderof 
 the Normans, who coming into Italy about the 
 year 860, with a great Army, and finding Luna 
 (a Town in the Confines of Genoa) fo fumptu- 
 oufly built, thoughtVeally it had been Rome, and 
 thereupon taking it, he gloried that he had 
 facked theMiftrii's of the World Gratatur te- JDreido <t. 
 ncre fe Monarchiam totius Imperii , p£r 
 putabat Fomam, faith hisHifforian. 
 
 Sailing thus along this pleafanl 
 came betimes to Genoa. 
 
 Genoa is one of the chief Towns that Hands, dmcc. 
 upon the Mediterranean Sea, and one of the belt 
 in Italy j the common kalian Proverb calls it 
 Genua la Superba : and if ever 1 few a Town 
 with its Holiday Clothes always on, it was 
 Genoa. It Hands upon the fide of a Hill, and 
 riling by degrees, appears to thofe that look 
 upon it from the Sea, like an Amphitheatre. 
 Heretofore it was only fortified by Marble 
 Bulwarks,, that is, great Hills of Marble, 
 which backt it up, but fome forty years ago it The iva. ' . 
 was environ’d with new Walls, carrying fix 
 miles in compafs, and yet finiftfd in eighteen r 
 months. 
 
 The Haven heretofore was very unfafe, and 
 many Ships which had tug’d through the molt - 
 dangerous Seas abroad, were feen to fink here 
 in the Haven and at home ^ the French , then Ma- 
 ilers oi Genoa, not fuffering her to fhut up her 
 Haven, leH file feould (hut them out. But fince 
 fee hath feaken off the French Yoke, fee hath 
 
 lock- 
 
 urbera mam s * Quintim 
 ‘ 1 lib . 1 , de 
 
 rnorib. Fj 
 
 we 
 
 Att/Ncrm. 
 
6o. 3 ©apge ta IT A L Y. Part T 
 
 locked up her Treafures, and bolted the door 
 on the infide, by that admirable Mola, which 
 croffing almoft quite over the Bay or Haven* 
 doth not only bolt out all Enemies* hut even 
 locks up the hoilferoiis Sea it felf* and makes 
 it tame in the Haven, It’s a prodigious Work* 
 and able to have puzzl’d any two Kings in Eu- 
 rope to have done it. 
 
 At one end of this Moia fend? the Pharos * 
 7k Pharos upon a little rock-, With a Lantern upon it* to 
 give notice, by known figns, what Ships* how 
 many, and from what fide they come • or elfe 
 to guide their own Ships home fafely in the 
 night. At firft it was only a little Fort, that 
 might help to bridle Genoa, and it was built by 
 Lems XIII, of Frame. 
 
 7k City it As for the Town it felf of Genoa * it’s nioft 
 M* beautiful to behold, many of the Houfes being 
 painted on the out fide,, and looking as if they 
 were turned infide out, and had their Arras 
 Hangings hung on their outildes. The tops of 
 their Houfes are made with open Galleries, 
 where the Women fit together at work in du- 
 ffers, and where alfo they dry their Hair in the 
 Sun, after they have waflfd it in a certain wafh, 
 us’d on purpofe to make it yellow, a colour 
 much affe&ed here by all Women. 
 
 Toe Streets Th t Streets are very narrow *, fo that they 
 
 ufe here few Coaches, but many Sedans and Lit- 
 ters : this makes the noife in fhe Streets Ids 
 and the expence in the Purfe fmaller. But* 
 for want of Ground and Earth, they make 
 Heaven pay for it, taking it out in the heightb 
 of their Houfes, what they want in breadth or 
 length • fo that Genoa look’d in my Eye like 
 
 a proud 
 
Parti, seepage to ITALY. Si 
 
 a proud young Lady in a ftrait-bodied flower’d 
 Gown, whicfrtnakes her look tall indeed and 
 fine, but binders her from being athereafe, 
 and takitig breath freely. 
 
 Yet I muft except the Strada Nova here,^^ 
 which for a fpirt furpafieth all the Streets I Noval 
 ever f&vt any where elfe for neatnels and pro- 
 portion ; and, if it had but Breath enough to 
 hold out at the fame rate a little longer, it 
 would be the true Queen- ftreet of Europe : Or- 
 dinary Honfes are fo out of countenance here, 
 that they dare not appear in this Street, where 
 there’s nothing but Palaces, and Palaces as fine 
 as Art and Coft, or as Marble and Painting, 
 can make them/ 
 
 Having faid thus much of Genoa in general, 
 
 1 will now come to the particulars that are to 
 be feen in it. * 
 
 i . The Domo , or great Church of St. Lawrence Dcm . 
 
 prefents it felf to my fight ^ it’s the Cathedral 
 of the Archhifiop. This Church is of a noble 
 ftrutfhire, all of black and white Marble inter - 
 mingled, and all maflive fquare Stones. In a 
 Chapel over againft: the Pulpit is kept reve- 
 rently an authentick Relick of St. John Baptijr , 
 under the Altar, as we are told • and the great 
 Dilh of one Emeraud , in which, they fay here, 
 our Saviour eat the Pafchal Lamb with his Di- 
 j fciples. Berth thefe were given to the Genoefi 
 by Baldwin Ring of Hterufalem , for their great 
 Service done againft the Turks in the Holy Land . * 
 
 Of the Relick of St. John Bavtifi^Baronms fpeaks 
 boldly in his Ecclefiaftical Hiftory ; But for the Barotl# ^ 
 Difh of Etoeraud, I find no Authority at all for An. iloi. 
 it, either mBam/jus or any other Author,that 
 
6 z 3 (Homage to I T A L Y. fart T. 
 
 our Saviour ufed it * efpecially feeing venera- 
 Beia, l dt ble Be da writes, that the Difh in which our Sa- 
 ioc. faith viour eat the Pafchal Lamb was of Silver. 
 
 2 After the Lomo^l faw the Church of the 
 ^ An . ^'Munciata, which draweth up the Ladder 
 nuncuta. after it for neatnefs. It’s ftill in building, and 
 not quite finifh’d. It’s thus beautified at the 
 Giisignori coff of two Brothers, rich Gentlemen, and 
 LoradinL Merchants of this Town, who allow the third 
 part of their Gains to the adorning of this 
 Church. The Roof of it is all gilt, and fet 
 with curious Pi&ures in Flat-found , the Altars 
 tdund aboiit the Church are cheeked with, ex- 
 quifite Pillars, and adorn’d with rare pi&Ures; j 
 the two rows of vafi Pillars which hold upthe 
 Roof of the Church, are fo beautiful, being of 
 a red and white Marble, that they look Tike 
 Jafper, and ravifh the I e holders, whilft they 
 gaze on their curious Work. 
 
 S. Ambro- 3- The Church of S. Jmbrofio , belonging to 
 fitu the Jefdts , is neatly ovcrcrufted with Matble, 
 and gilt above in the Pvoof. It wants a little 
 length, for want of room to build on ^ it be- 
 ing too near the jD^’s Palace, and not daring 
 to advance a If ep further, for fear of treading 
 upon his Keels. , . ; 
 
 :.Cjro. 4 . The Church of the Thcatw 0 <$nVd 5. Cyro t 
 Is very handfom, with its double vow of white 
 Marble Pillars^ which fet it out very graceful- 
 ly. The Cloy Her alfo is very neat, and the 
 Fathers very civil. 
 
 Tfc’Pf/,*- 5 The Palaces here are mod Turn ptuous - 
 c fa ‘ thofc of Strada Nova are the bed, and the befl: 
 of thole is that of the Prince d? Orta \ it’s built 
 upon white round Marble Pillars, which fap- 
 
 port 
 
Part 1. a (Hopatje to I T A L Y. 
 
 port its Galleries, and thofe Galleries let you 
 into noble Rooms, adorn’d with all the Akdli- 
 menti of It dun Palaces. The other Palaces too 
 in this Street defcrve particular mention in 
 this defcription of Genoa^ and may take it ill I 
 fay nothing of them * but they mult excufe my 
 brevity, and impute the fault partly to them- 
 felves, feeing admirable things are liable to 
 this inconvenience, that they are alfo unex- 
 preffible. 
 
 6. 1 faw alfo the two Palaces of the Signori ? h . e 
 Balbi, inThe Street of the Annunciate y in the ^j£| nori 
 one whereof (on the left hand) 1 faw, among 1 
 other rich things, a Looking-glafs, valued at 
 threelcore thoufand Crowns • it’s much of the 
 
 fee of thofe Looking-glades which Seneca calls 
 fpecuiatoti corpori paria , that is, as big and brit- 
 tle as thofe that look themfelves in them : the 
 Frame of it is all of Silver, fet thick with a 
 thoufand little armed Figures like Cupids, as if 
 the plain Mirrour of this Looking-glafs were 
 the plain Field where Cupid pitcheth his T ent s, 
 and begins his Conqaefts over fair Ladies. The 
 round Pillars fet in the Porch of this Houfe, 
 and the Giuocbi di Accrue in the Garden, will 
 make themfelves be taken notice of. 
 
 7. The Palace ofthe .D^.^or biennial Prince The Doges 
 here, with the feveral Chambers of Jufrice i and Ptlacc. 
 the Armory in it for thirty thoufand Men,ought Jhe Arm , 
 to be carefully feen. In one of the great Flails r y. 
 
 of this Palace you have twelve Statues of white 
 Marble, reprefenting twelve famous Men of 
 this Town, who had render'd great Service to 
 the Commonwealth. In the Torefaid Armory 
 you fee a Halbard with two Piflol-barrels in 
 
 the 
 
6\ 3 Slopatje to I T A L Y„ Part L 
 
 the lower end of it. You fee alfo the Armour 
 of the Gemefian Anuuums^ who went to the War 
 in the Holy Land , and carried themfelves gal- 
 lantly. Here’s alfo a Cannon of Leather fo 
 light, that a Man may carry it. 
 sayi Pietro 8. But that which is the moft taking in £?o 
 in Arena, n0 a , is that which is out of Genoa , 1 mean, the 
 ftately Suburbs of San Pietro in Arena, where 
 for a mile together Villa’s adorn’d with Mar- 
 bles, Painting, Statues, Gardens, Arbours of 
 Gelfomin, Orange and Limon Trees, Grotfcs, 
 Ponds, Ghiochi dfAcqua, Fountains, high Walls, 
 with Shades born up by Marble Pillars, &c . 
 cortfpos’d of many Palaces and Gardens, fuch 
 a beautiful Landskip, that the whole place 
 feem’d to me to be the charming Paradife of 
 the King of the Mountains anciently, and I was 
 almoft going to fay, that we durft not blefs 
 our felves, left this enchanted place fliould 
 have vanifn’d. The beft Villa’s or Palaces 
 here, are thofe of Hkronymo Negrc y and that 
 of the Imyeridi ^ the iirft beautified with all the 
 graces of Italian Furniture, as alfo with Gar^ 
 dens, Walks, Ponds, Water works, Aliys, 
 the other, betides all thefe, hath an excellent 
 profpeft ^ for the Mailer of tins Houfe can fee 
 out of one Window of it, Twelve thoufand 
 Crowns a year of his own, only in let Houfes. 
 
 The other Palaces here expect 1 fhould fay 
 fomethingof them, and they defer ve it well ; 
 but really, to give them their full due, 1 can 
 only fay this of them, That tiiey ought to 
 be feen by the Eye , not defcribed by the 
 Pen, I 
 
 . f • » 91 
 
 • . " ’• „ *’ ' 
 
 9 - /S 
 
 I 
 
Parti, aaopage to ITALY. 6 5 
 
 9. As you return from San Pietro in Arena jhe VilU of 
 to the Town, not far from the Gates, ftands the the Duke 
 Villa, or Palace of the Duke £ Orta . I refer- d ’Oria. 
 ved this for the laft, four fair bonne louche. It 
 fttnds upon the Seafide,and its Garden towards 
 the Sea is built upon three rows of white Marble 
 Rails , born up by white marble Pillars , which a- 
 ftending by degrees, is fo beautiful to behold 
 from the Sea, that Strangers pafling that way 
 to Genoa , take this Garden for a fecond Para - 
 dife . In the midft of it ftands the rare Fountain 
 of Neptune, reprefenting the true looks of brave 
 Andrea £ Oria, the Neptune of the Ligurian Sea y 
 and the man who put his Country out of Live- 
 ry, and taught it not to ferve, All along one 
 fide of this Garden ftands a Cage of Iron, about 
 a hundred paces long, and fo high, that it fetch - 
 eth in a world of L aurel and other Trees, clad 
 with chirping Birds of feveral forts ^ and, to 
 make the poor Birds believe that they are ra- 
 ther in a Wood than in a Prifon,the very Cage 
 hath put even the Wood itfelf in Prifon.Then 
 entring into the Palace, we found it moft curi- 
 oufly adorn’d with Rarities and Riches fpitable 
 to the Country’s humor and theMafter’s purfe. 
 
 It’s true, when this Queen of Spain palfed from 
 Germany into Spain, byway of Milan and Genoa , 
 the Governor of Milan told her, that fhe (hould 
 fee in £ Ori£s Palace here many fine things, but 
 all borrow’d of the Townfmen. Which d'Oria 
 hearing of beforehand, caufed to be written 
 over the great Gates of the Palace, where the 
 Queen was to enter and lodge, thefe words in 
 Spanifil, By the G race of God , and the King's Fa- 
 vour, there s' nothing here borrow'd . It may be the 
 
 F cun* 
 

 a (BBp^toIt'ALY. Patti. 
 
 lift: 
 
 momma** 
 
 Ae Qpeen this, to oblige the Duke aP Oria to 
 prefer fome of his heft things to the Queen, 
 to feew bar that they were his o wn - as it’s laid 
 
 ILadks, who laid he had only borrow'd it ^ but 
 thewife Italian by this trick both kept his own, 
 and yet fatisfied the Queen. Indeed he hath 
 thiags here both to© good to be given away, 
 md t 30 ©gre at to be carried away • witnefs thofe 
 rare Siivsr Tdbks which are in his IVardrobcpnz 
 whereof weigheth twenty fourthoufand pound 
 weight. From the Palace we were led over 
 the Street to hisgrpat Garden upon the Hill fide, 
 where ail the Graces that can make up a Gar- 
 dea are found. 
 
 As for the Government, Falhions, Wealth, 
 Strength, and Intereft of Gmoa, I found them 
 t© he thus: 
 
 Their Government is Democmical or Popu- 
 lar , by a Doge (chofea every two years) and 
 eight Senators, who live with him in the Pa- 
 U& t and affift him with their Counfel. The 
 Great Council here, which is the Foundation of 
 die Government, confifts of Four hundred men 
 cholen indifferently out of all the Families of 
 the Town ; thefe deliberate with the S igniora^ 
 of ail things that belong to War or Peace, 
 Anciently, as I hinted before, Genoa was under 
 die French Domination, till Andrea d'Oria fet it 
 free. Hiftorians write of it, that Berengarias the 
 third, and the Saracens, fo ruin’d Genoa , that 
 they left it fwimming in its own Blood, which 
 Ram w&s forewarn'd by a Prod igy of a Fountain 
 
 of 
 
97 
 
 Parti, a aopage to I T AL Y. 
 
 of Blood, which ran in the very Streets of Ge- 
 noa. It had like to have fwam a fecond time 
 in its Blood, when Lewis XII. of France enter- 
 ing into Genoa vi&orioufly with Sword in hand 
 threatning the utter mine of that People, was 
 pacified by the mournful Gries of Four thou- 
 fand little Children, who, clad in Sackcloth, 
 and placed in the great Piazjuty cry’d out to 
 the King in a piercing accent, Mifericordia 
 e Piet A y Mercy and Pity. But fince Genoa Ihook 
 off* the French Yoke, it hath lived perpetually 
 jealous of the French, efpecially fince it difco- 
 ver’d, Tome years paft, divers attempts of 
 France againft it, whilft the French had Porto - 
 Ion gone and Piombino . 
 
 For this realon the Genoefi lean much to the 
 Spanifh Fa&ion • andFaffiions following Fa fti- 
 ons they lean much to the Spanifh Fafhion both 
 in Humor and Apparel. Hence I found here 
 broad Hats without Hatbands, broad Leather 
 Girdles with Steel Buckles, narrow Breeches, 
 with long-wafted Doublets and hanging-fieeves 
 to be a la mode , as well as in Madrid. And 
 I found all the great Ladies here to go like 
 the Donna’s of Spain , in * Guardinfantas'y * Child- 
 that is, in horrible overgrown Fartingals^™^* 
 of Whalebone, which being, put about the 
 Waft of tiie Lady, and full as broad on both 
 Tides as fhe can reach with her hands, bear out 
 her Coats in fuch a huffing manner, that fhe 
 appears to be as broad as long. I was told by 
 one of their Noblemen, that a certain Lady of 
 a Noble Houfe, when her Son was a condemn’d 
 Prifoner, deliver’d him both from Captivity 
 arid Death, by taking him under her Guar din - 
 
 F 2 fanta^Sy 
 
68 
 
 a fflapage to I T A L Y. Part L 
 
 fantas^ and carrying him thence, fupported by 
 her Women, from whence fhe could privately 
 fend him out of the State. So that the Men 
 here with their little clofe Breeches looked like 
 • Tumblers that leap through the Hoops *, and 
 the Women like thofe that danced anciently 
 the Hobby- korfe in Country Mummings. 
 
 As for their Riches , I am told they pafs not a 
 1 Million and two hundred thoufand Crownsa year. 
 Indeed the K ing of Spain, Philip the IL a)K>ve 
 a hundred years ago, borrowed of this Rcpnb- 
 tick the fum of eleven Millions, and keeps them 
 Hill in his hands to keep this Rep Mick in awe *, 
 yet paying the intereft duly unto them. So 
 that the Common Purfe here, is nothing fo rich 
 as that of Venice, though the particular Men 
 here are far richer than thofe of Venice. They 
 have great Trading both with Frame and Spain-, 
 and are great Bammers, making the Change in 
 all the Banks of Europe, go as they pleafe. Bo- 
 lides they utter a world of T affdtaes, Velvets , 
 S (trains, Poms of needle, work, and divers o- 
 ther things of Value. 
 
 As for their Strength , it’s enongh to defend 
 si?iV£\h. themfelyes, fcarce enough to offend others. 
 For Genova is back’d up by the Hpptnnincs, 
 where all paflages are eafily made good 3gainft 
 Invaders*, and it isfo well fortified on the other 
 fide by the Sea it felf, twelve or fourteen good 
 Gabies, twenty Shipe of War, and it’s incompara- 
 ble Molo, that they could, fcuffle notably in 
 their ow.n defence, Befides, Genova is fortifi- 
 ed not only with its Hills and Sea, butalfb 
 with its new Walls aud bull- war ks of Stone ; 
 nay, and with its Bone-w alls too, that is, with 
 
 a La- 
 
Parti, (I aiopge £0 ITALY. 
 
 a Lacedemonian Wall of a world of Inhabitants, 
 and with the illuftrious Families of df Oria, 
 Sfinola , Grimaldi , Sauli, Durazxi , Catanei , 
 and others, whofe feveral names would goal- 
 moft for feveral Armies. Yet for a need, they 
 can raife thirty thoufand Men, and arm them 
 well out of their ArfWal. I confcfs heretofore 
 they were ftrong enough to offend others ^ for 
 they made War againlfc the/P//W,and worfted 
 them .* They fet alfo upon th eJjland of Coffita y 
 diltant from Genoa about a hundred miles, and 
 took it. This Ifiand gave the Repuhlick^o f Ge- 
 noa more honour than profit : for, it being once 
 a Kingdom, gives flill to Genoa the Title* of 
 I ber'eniffima, and a Clofe Regal Crown over its 
 Coat of Arms. In fine, the Genoefi were ftrong 
 enough heretofore, to lend great Succours to 
 G'odfny of Bulten in his holy Conqueftof Hkru* 
 falem. Hence upon the very Area of the Holy 
 Sepulchre in Hkrtifakm , are written thefe words: 
 Prapotens G enoenfinm pr&fidium . 
 
 As for their Intereft, it feemed to me to be fix.; 
 far more Spaniflj than French , by reifqn of the?'# 
 great profit they draw from Spain , which cor- 
 refponds with the rich Stare of Milan in Men 
 and Moneys, by means of the Genoefi * yet they 
 are well with all Chriftian Princes, except 
 with the Duke of Savoy , who pretends to' Sa- 
 vona. 
 
 As for the learned men of this Town, I find r *-- 
 them not to be fo many. The rich Banqmer 1 ^ 1 
 is more efteemed here, than the learned 'Di- 
 vine. Yet I find here alfo fome famous for 
 learning, ’tb wit, Baptifla Fregofm , or Ffitgofm y 
 who for his lingular parts being choieji Doge 
 
 F 3 of 
 
70 
 
 CLTOpagc to IT ALY. Parti. 
 
 of Genoa , and by his own diQoyal kindred cha- 
 fed from Government and Country, comforted 
 himfelf in his Studies ^ and having obferved 
 many particular things in Hiftory,he reduced 
 them to Heads, and left us a juft volume of 
 Memorable Sayings and Deeds of the Antients^ 
 for which work, heisftiledby Alberto Lean* 
 drOy the Falcrm Maximus of Italy . He wro e 
 in Italiarty and dedicated his Book to his Son, 
 The other learned Men of this Town are Jn - 
 flrnianuSy Balus, Mafcardiy and Chriftopher Co- 
 Iambus, 
 
 Genoa alfo hath given to the Church of Rome 
 three Popcsy Adrian the V. Innocent the IV. 
 and Innocent the VIII. 
 
 The Auk- Here is an Academy of Wits called the Ador- 
 my of Wits* mentati *, which together with the other Aca- 
 demies of the like nature in all the Towns of . 
 Italy , I would wifh my Traveller to vifit parti- 
 cularly, that he may fee how far the Italians 
 excel us, in palling their time wett *, and how 
 it’s much better to fpend the week in making of 
 Orations and Ferfesy than in drinking of Ale and 
 fmoaking of Tobacco. 
 
 ih\r Hi- He that defires to know more of Genoa ^ let 
 jhmn. him read Auguftinm Juftinianus of the Hiftory 
 of Genoa . 
 
 Having fpent fix days in Genoa , we agreed 
 with an honeft Fetturino to conduft us to Milany 
 which is about four little days journey from 
 hence. In another Voyage I went from Genoa 
 Monferrat , to Turin by Mont f err at , and faw in my way 
 Novi ( of which by and by ) Trino Cajfaky one 
 Cafal of the ftrongeft places of ' Italy y having a ftrong; . 
 Cittadell , a ftrong Cafile > ftrong Town- walls 
 
 and 
 
J Part L taJepge fa ITALY, 71 
 
 and Ditches ~ and Alexmsdrm dido- FagSa^ aMexub 
 ftrong Town (landing upon the Pa ^ Ji> 
 
 But now at this time leaving; G 4 nm* m$ in- 
 tending for Mil mi t we rid through; Sm- Fkrm 
 £ Arena * by the- Carthtifams Mcnaflzry* 6ter ffe 
 Jfemm Bills* and in a. day and ahal.fca.tse' to 
 NavL 
 
 Novi is a rattle feong Town 
 Gemefi % and Frontier to Mtiaacf, Ir&femt 
 twelve. Miles, diftant from Tmma* the. irU 
 Frontier Town of the State of Milan. *; 
 
 : caufe thefe Frontiers were then.pdlerd; wMa 
 Randm* a Nobleman of Genoa* who was in «r 
 company* begg’d of the' Governor of N$m a 
 Convoy for himfelf and ias*t© fecure m m%w~ 
 tom The Govemonr prefently granted 8$ & 
 
 Convoy of eight ®t ten Borfe-me® r b»fc>, tbo fe 
 very Men he. gave us for imr Convoy, were 
 ’ Bandits themfelvcs^ wtoMngbaniikd fe« 
 the State . and! Town of Gw(u$- for their m££fe~ 
 meanors* had tw ©Month 3 a year aloweiltikni 
 to. come freely into Frontier Towns* and! nego- 
 tiate with the St^te. Thefe Men wefctfefiu^fc 
 by the Governor to be our Mel: Guards, la 
 danger* Having been thus convoyed by mbt 
 honed Rogues paft all danger, we paid tiMrn 
 forne three Piiloles* and feared no more dra- 
 ger* till we fhould meet, with fuch Servants- z% 
 thefe another time* ’ I confsfs* it feemtdaS;. 
 
 £rft a fearful thing*' to fee mv felves intte - 
 hands of thofe* who had . their hands ®km m . 
 
 Bloods yet there is. iuch a charm in a Gover- 
 nors Parole* that wet bought ©urMv.es aswdfi . 
 armed with 1 it* as, if we- had been 
 and had had all the Snlis t£ Laphml about *&. 
 
 F 4. ' Wh 
 
72 > S^opagetaXTALY. PartL 
 
 Tortona. We had no fboner parted from thefe our 
 Guards, but paffing over a little River on 
 Horfeback, we entred into the Milanefe , and 
 came at night to 7 ortona, a ftrong Frontier 
 Town of the Milanefe ; where Charles the 
 VIII. of France , in his return from the Con- 
 queffc of Nafles, beat the Venetians^ and the 
 Milancfi in a Battle. 
 
 Pavia. From Tortona we went the next day to Pavia, 
 the fecond Town of the State of Milan , and 
 once the Seat of twelve Kings of the Lon - 
 Ticinum. gobards. It Hands upon the River Ticinum, and 
 hence it’s alfo called in Latin Ticinum . Here’s 
 an Univerfity, either founded or furnilhed 
 at firfl , with Readers , or by Readers of 
 the Univerfity of Oxford . The chief Colleges, 
 The JDmo. that of Pius Quintas, a»d that of S. Charles 
 Borromaus. The other remarkable things here, 
 are, i. The Domo^ in which lieth buried the 
 Body of a holy Bifhop of this Town, called 
 Sadi, who was contemporary to S. Charles 
 Borromaus, and of the fame fpirit and zeal. 
 Near the great door of this -Church (on the 
 infide ) they ffiew you a little Mafi of a 
 Boat, which they make ignorant people believe 
 (for fport) to have been the Lance of Orlando 
 : Furiofo . 
 
 The Eque- 2. Near the JDomo, in the Piazza, Hands 
 firis su- a Brazen Statue, which fome affirm to be the 
 
 Tninuf 71 ’ ^ tatue °f Conftantme the Great j others, more 
 minus. p ro b a b]y^ 0 f jintonimis Pius . It was brought 
 from Ravenna hither by Vi&ory *, and it had 
 like to have been carried back again to Ravenna 
 by Viftory. For Lotrech the French GeneraTm 
 the taking of this Town, having granted this 
 
 Statue 
 
Parti. 3 2 lopcl(|e to ITALY. 7 j 
 
 Statue to a Soldier of Ravenna (who lerved un- 
 der him, and who having mounted the Breach 
 firft, asked nothing for his recom pence but that 
 Sftff/r^taken antiently from his Native Town.) 
 
 Yet afterwards moved with the generofity of 
 the Townfmen ( who having left all things elfe 
 with fome patience, to the prey of theSouldiers, 
 burft into Tears, when they heard that this Sta- 
 tue was to be taken from them.) Lotrech chang- 
 ed his Gift to the Souldier, and left the Citi- 
 zens of Pavia their dear Statue. 
 
 3. I law the jQuguflins Churchy where the S. Jugtt- 
 Body of that great Father of the Church S, j4a-fl ins Bod h 
 guftin lieth buried. It was tranflated hither 
 
 out of Sardinia by Luitprandus King of the Lon- Baroyi% 
 gobards *,an Arm of which S. Augufiin a King of ^Xn. an. 
 England redeemed at a great rate, and yet cheap 1015. 
 too, if it were his writing Arm, wherewith he 
 wrote fuch admirable Books. The new Tomb 
 in the Sacrifiy is all of white Marble, raoft ex- 
 quilitely carved with Hiftorical Statues re- 
 prefenting the moft remarkable a&ions of that 
 Doctor. 
 
 4. In the lame Church we were fhown the 
 
 T omb of Severinus Boctius , Author of that great 0 f s :vc ri- 
 little Book d.e ' Confolatione Philofophica, which nus Boeti- 
 he wrote in his Exile, to comfort himfelf. He 11S * 
 was a Conful of Rome for dignity, another St , See - 
 Denys for Learning and Loling his Head : and ahm 5 ~ " 
 held a Martyr by many. 
 
 5. In the Cloifter of this Convent of the 
 ylugnftinsj lie buried two Englifimen of note, 
 the Duke of Suffolk^ and an Englijh Bijhop called 
 Parker , of the Houfe of Morley , upon whofe 
 T ombs are. handfome Epitaphs. 
 
 .<>. The 
 
9 gjopap to I T A L Y. Part L 
 
 6. The Chapel where th t Bones of th t French* 
 men killed in the Bank of Pavia are kept and 
 fhown to Strangers. 
 
 7. In the Francifcans Church here, lies buried 
 Baidas the famous Jurifconfuit. 
 
 8. The long Wooden- Bridge , covered over 
 head with a perpetual Penthoufe, to defend 
 men as well from the Sun,, as from the Rain. 
 
 Of this Town were Ennodius fTmnenfs y and 
 LanfrancHs y ArchbifllOp of Canterbury^ who 
 wrote againft Berengarias for the Real Prefence » 
 He that defires to know the particular Hiffio- 
 The Hifto- *7 °£ let him read Antonio Spelta y and . 
 
 runs,- Sacco . •* 
 
 From Pavia we went to Milan , fome twen- 
 ty miles off y and in the way, fow the famous 
 Monafiery of the Cart ha fans, near unto which,, 
 upon S. Matthias his day (a day favourable to 
 Chortles the V, teeing he was bom on that day. 
 Crowned Emperor on that day,, and got this 
 Ficlory on that- day ) was fought that memo- 
 rable Battle between the laid Emperours For- 
 ces, and the French King , Anno 2 525, where 
 l 'k Battle Francis the I. of France was taken Prifoner, ha- 
 /f Pavia * ving loft the day, not for want of courage,but 
 conduft: for he had a little before, fent away 
 half of his Army to the Conqueft of Naples y 
 by which he fo weakened the reft of his Army 
 here, that he both loft the day, and did nothing 
 againft the Kingdom of Naples \ a great fault 
 iee Mg}h obferved by one that was prefent there, to wit, 
 luc’s Com- Monfear Mon lac. Francis being thus taken pri- 
 remarks, foner, was presently conduded to the Cartha~ 
 fan Monafiery , which was hard by. Enter- 
 ring into the Churchy and finding the Monks 
 
 fog- 
 
 74 
 
 learned 
 
 Men. 
 
Parti, aaiopage to ITALY. 75 
 
 finging in the third hour this vcrfe of the Pfulm y 
 Coagulatuni eft ft cut lac cor comm, ego vero le~ 
 gem [tuam meditatus fum, he ftrufi up with 
 them at the next vcrfe , and lung aloud with a 
 piety as great as his lofs, or courage, Bomtm 
 mhi quia humiliafti fne, ut difcam juft ificationes tu- 
 as * that is, ids well for me, that thou haft humbled 
 me , that I may learn thy Juft ific at ions. After he 
 had heard Mafs here, he was carried to Dinner 
 in the Monaftery , and was ferved by three Ge- 
 nerals of the Spanijh Army, Launoy , Bourbon, 2nd 
 the Marquis of Vafti -, the one holding the Ba- 
 fin, theiecond pouring Water upon his hands, 
 and the third prefentirig him the Towel. Some 
 fay he refufed to be ferved by Bourbon, looking 
 upon him as a revolted Traytor, rather than 
 as an Enemy : indeed the brave French Knight 
 Bayard ( firnamedthe Chevalier fans peur, who 
 died in the Battle,) being found expiring in the 
 Field by Bourbon, who faid to him, Boor Bayard ? 
 
 I pity thee \ anfwered him with all the courage 
 and life that was left him No, Traytor, Jam 
 not to be pitied, who die nobly , ferving my ICing 
 and Country : bi t, thou rather art to be pitied , 
 
 who live ft a Traytor to thy King and Country. As 
 for the King he was led Prifoner into Spain, 
 where he was kept at Madrid till he paid his 
 Ranfom. Hence the Spaniards brag, that they 
 had once a French /C/^-Prifoher, and the French 
 had never any King of Spain Prifoner : but the 
 French anfwer* that their King had not been 
 Prifoner had he fought as the Kings of Spain 
 do of late , that is, by Proxy , and not in 
 Perlon. However this Francis the firft defer- 
 ved better Fortune, being a Prince of great 
 
 Cou- 
 
7 6 - 3 SlOpage tQ I T A L Y. Part L 
 
 ■, Courage and Honour, and a great lover of his 
 f Soldiers. For not long before, he had beaten 
 the Swifter s in the Battle of Sari Donato, where 
 his Soldiers fought for him with lingular Cou- 
 ; rage and Zeal. And he had deferred it all .* 
 For he was fo good to his Soldiers in that ex- 
 pedition, that he would ride up and down the 
 Camp in the night to vifit the wounded Solde- 
 ers, and help them to all neceflaries, command- 
 ing even His own fleets to be cut in pieces to 
 bind up their Wounds. 
 
 7 h s Car- As for the Monaflery it felf of the Carthufians ■ 
 
 thufians it’s one of the mod; Cutely Monafteries of Ita~ 
 Monxftzry. ^ and, j believe, the fecond of that Order . 
 The great Cloifter is all covered with Lead. 
 The Church is one of the handfomeft of Italy 
 though built a U Tedefca . The Frontiipieceof 
 it is adorned with a world of Heads and Figures 
 of white marble. The Chapels within are 
 richly adorned and painted. The Tabernacle 
 is worth fourfcore thonfand Crowns. The 
 Tomb of their Founder, John Gal a~z.o Vifcoimti, 
 Duke of Milan , which Hands a little 1 without 
 the Quire , with the cumbent Statues of Ludo- 
 vico Mpro the la ft Duke of Milan and his Wife, 
 lying under the other, is a (lately Monument . 
 In the Sacriftv we were fhown many fine 
 Relicks , much rich Church-plate, and the curious 
 back of an o4ltar of Ivory cut into Hiflories af- 
 ter a rare manner. 
 
 Pafling from hence we came to Milan. This 
 Town is furnamed the Great and rigbtly/ee- 
 ing it carries full ten miles in compafs within 
 the Walls. It hath ten Gates to it two hun- 
 dred Churches within it, and three hundred 
 
 thoh- 
 
Part I. 3 2Joyase to I T A L Y. 77 
 
 thoufand fouls dwelling in it. Hence it was an- 1 c e J?f tch ^ 
 tiently called „ Altera Roma a fec-ond Romo , both °J 1 * n ' 
 bccaule of its Greatnefs, and becanfe of its 
 other Titles , which made it look like Rome . 
 
 It’s the Head of the bell Dutchy in Europe, 
 which is a hundred miles long from North to 
 South , and containeth four hundred Towns in it. 
 
 It’s called Miland quafi Midland , being a pure 
 Mediterranean Town, and having (which is a 
 wonder not fo much as a River of its own run- 
 ning in it ‘ 7 but is only ferved by two Channels 
 cut out of the Ticine and the Adder. This Town 
 hath heretofore iuffered much by War \ great 
 Towns being the faireit marks to fhoot at , 
 and Milan hath been forty times (hot at by 
 Sieges, and twenty times hit, and taken, ha- 
 ving had the misfortune to have been under 
 divers Fa&ions and Rulers : as the Emperours, 
 the Turriani , the Fifconti , the Sforzje , the 
 French and the Spaniards , who now keep it, 
 merce al Cafiello , which Haveth off all at- 
 tempts of Strangers. France pretends to this 
 Dutchy as Heir of Falentia Fifconty , who was 
 married to Lewis Duke of Orleans, whofe houfe 
 was excluded from this Dutchy by FrancisSfor- 
 za, who poflefled himfelf of this State. 
 
 As for the things which I faw in Milan, they 
 are thefe. 
 
 i. A great number of Genty and Nobility store of 
 here, which I perceived to be very numerous. Gentry. 
 becaufe of an hundred Coaches (no Hackneys) 
 which 1 faw Handing before a Church upon a 
 private Feftival-day of that Church. 
 
 a. Great 
 
7* 
 
 Store of 
 Artiuns. 
 
 S, Am- 
 
 brof/j 
 Church , 
 
 Am- 
 
 brofe 
 
 Tomb, 
 
 $ead S. 
 
 Auguftin, 
 
 9 . 
 
 Conf, c, 7 . 
 
 Numb., 
 
 21 . 8 . 
 
 5Fa£tf 3. 
 
 l > 4 * 
 
 3 damage td I T A L Y. Part I. 
 
 2. Great {lore of Artisans , as Goldfmifchs, 
 
 Armourers, Gunfmiths* Weavers, Silkftockin- 
 makers, Refiners of Gold, thofe that work in 
 Cryftal, and a world of others • which gives 
 occafion to the Proverb, which faith, That he 
 that would improve aH Italy, mufi deftroy Milan 
 firfij for if Milan were deilroy’d, the many 
 Artizans that are there, would fpread over all 
 ltaly^ and furnifh the other Towns, which want 
 Artizans,, . 
 
 3. The Churches here,and firfl that of S.Am- 
 brofc , where that glorious Father of th z Church 
 refus’d ftoutly to Theodofms the Emperor , en- 
 trance into that Church , becaufe of his paffio- 
 nate commanding the Maffacre at Thejfalorica^ 
 where feven thoufand Men were murder’d for 
 the fault of a few. Under the high Altar of 
 this Church Iieth the Body of S. Ambrefe y as al- 
 fo the Bodies of Gcrvafius and Frotafius , two 
 primitive Saints, whofe Bodies were laid to be 
 found whilft S. Aufiin liv’d at Milan , and who 
 alfo relates a famous Miracle, which, they fay, 
 was known to have been wrought by God, at 
 thetranflation of thofe holy Martyrs Bodiesin- 
 to this Church, In this Church alfo is feen upon 
 a high Pillar of a round form, a Brazen Ser- 
 pent, like that eredted by Mofes in the Defart , 
 and commanded by God himfelf to be made : 
 
 I imagine it was fet up here for the fame end 
 for which it was commanded by God to be fet 
 up myftically in the Defart, that is, to put Men 
 in mind of our Saviour’s exaltation upon the 
 Crofs for Mankind, the frequent memory of 
 whichisafoveraign Antidote againft the ltings 
 of the infernal Serpent, the Devil 
 
 4' Near 
 
Parti. aaiepagetaiTALY. 7$ 
 
 4. <Near unto the ’forefaid Church of S. Am- 
 $>roje ftands the little Chapel, where S. Auguftin 
 with his little Adeodatus, and his Friend Alippi- 
 us , was baptiz’d, as the Words over th$ Altar 
 teftihe - and From this little Chapel it’s faid 
 5 . Amhrofe and S. Auguftin (then become Chri - 
 {Hans) going proceffionally to the great Church, 
 
 made the Hymn T e Deum, as they went, one The Hymn 
 making one Verfe, the other another, Te Deum. 
 
 5. The other little Chapel on the other fide 
 
 of $. Ambrofe* s Churchy is built upon the place 
 where S. Augufiin was firft converted by a 
 Voice, which faid to him, Tolle lege , Tolle lege ■: 
 meaning S. Paul's Epiftles : Which he doing, 
 pitch’d juft: upon thofe Words to the Romans, Thephceof 
 Non in cubilibus & mpudicitiis , fed induimini *be c on ~ 
 Jefum Chriftum, &c. And fo of an impure AT a- v ^T l $ 
 mchean he became a chafte Chriftian. * Ll iru 
 
 d. I faw adjoyning to this Church of S. Am- 7he Cifter ^ 
 hroje, the ftately Monaftery, with two curious * ia n s Mo ' 
 Cloyfters built upon round Pillars. The Mo- aJ try * 
 naftery, as well as S. Ambrofe' s Church, belongs 
 to the Ciftcrtian Monks . 
 
 7. Then I faw the Church of S. Tittor, be- s. viaor 
 longing to the Olivet an Fathers, with the ad mi- hu church 
 table Pifture of S. George killing the Dragon, of 
 the hand of Raphael Vrbin . This is a neat 
 Church when it is adorn’d in its beft Hangings, 
 as it was when I faw it. The double Cloyfters 
 hereof the Monaftery, built upon round Pil- 
 lars, ought to be feen. 
 
 & In the Church of S. Naz^arius are to be & mime 
 feen the Tombs of the Trivultii j ftately Mo- 
 numents. 
 
 S>. In 
 
So 
 
 S. Euftcr - 
 gio. 
 
 the Dome, 
 
 5. Lorenzo, 
 
 3 Clopage tfl IT ALY. Part h 
 
 p, Irr the Church of S. Euftorgins I faw the 
 j4rca, or old Tomb, in which repofed the Bo- 
 dies of the three Magi who came to adore our 
 Saviour in Beth km, whofe Bodies were faid to 
 be trartflated from hence to Colen in . Germany, 
 where I have feen them, by reafon of the de- 
 ftruclion ©f Milan . 
 
 io. 1 faw alfo the Church of S. L awrence , 
 built like that of Santta Sophia in C on ft ant inople. 
 Here lies biiried PlacUia r ibx Sifter of Honorius 
 the Emperor. 
 
 i \ . There are difers other Churches here, 
 all worth particular vifiting, by reafon of fome 
 rare thing in them *, as in that of S.*AIark, the 
 rare piece of Simon Magas s fall from the Skies. 
 In that of the Paffion, the rare PiSure of the 
 laft Supper, by Chriftophoro Cibo. In that of 
 & Celfo^a rare Pifture of Raphael's hand in the 
 Sacrifty. The Theatins and the Jefuits Churches 
 are very neat. 
 
 i 2 . But the belt of all the Churches of Milan 
 is the new .Dew, in the midft of which lieth 
 buried the new S. Jlmbrofe of Milan f I mean 
 S. Charles Borrornaus, another S. j4mbrofc in Pa- 
 floral Dignity, Zeal and Sandtity. This Church 
 I take to be the fecond in Italy for folid work, 
 being built all of white Marble, with Illes and 
 Pillars, each Pillar worth ten thoufand crowns, 
 and there are a hundred and threefcore fuch 
 Pillars in all, of maffive white Marble,, not can- 
 died and frozen over with a thin cruft of Mat> 
 ble, as moll of the other fine Churches of Ita- 
 ly are. There are alfo fix hundred white Mar- 
 ble Statues fet round about the outfide of this 
 Church, each of them coft a thoufand crowns. 
 
 That 
 
Parti, g damage to italy. 
 
 That of S. Bartholomew , with his Skin upon his 
 Arm, and that of Adam i arc two pieces much 
 admir’d, and are of the hand of Chrifiophoro 
 Ciho . The Frontifpiece is not yet finifh’d, but 
 if that be the true defign of it, which I have 
 fcen in Pi&ures in the Capuchins Cloyfler in 
 Rome, it will be molt llately. The Church it 
 felf is laid to be 25 0 cubits long. Near the 
 Quire, and almoft in the middle of the Church, 
 lieth the Body of S'. Charles Borrprnaus , in a low 
 Vault, turn’d now into a Chapel, open at the 
 top, with low Rails round about it : The in- 
 lide of this Chapel is hung with Hangings of 
 Cloth of Gold, over which runs a Cor nidi of 
 Jiher Flate nailed to the Wail. Upon the Altar 
 lieth the Body of S. Charles at length in a fair 
 Cryftal Coffin made of feveral great Squares of 
 Cryftal, thro 5 which (the wooden Cafe being 
 open’d by fpecial leave from the Archbifhop) 
 wefaw his Body lying all along in his Epifcopal 
 Robes ^ his Face, Hands, and Feet are only 
 feen, and his Nofc and Lips are fhrunk and 
 parched. The true Pi&ure of this Saint hangs 
 at the entrance below into this Chapel, and his 
 Hiftory and wonderful Actions are hung up in 
 painting round about the Church, on high. 
 Over the high Ahar, in the very Roof of the 
 Church , is kept one of the Nails of the Crofs of ^ . 
 our Saviour, given anciently to the MiUnefi, by N ' ul 
 the Emperor Theodofius. There burn always 
 before it a number of little Lamps, fet crofs- 
 wife, and drawn up thither with a Pulley, to 
 iliew the people where that h ly Relick is. In 
 fine , the Steeple of this Church is not to be for- 
 gotten , it’s not quite finifh’d yet, but it’s hHh 
 
 G enough 
 
0 SlopflgC to ITALY. Part L 
 
 enough to tire any man, and to fhew him from 
 the top of it the whole Town of Milan, the 
 whole compafs and circumference of the rare 
 Caille, and the whole Country round about for 
 twenty miles on every fide 3 a fight fo plea- 
 fant, that I would wifh my Traveller not only 
 to mount up to the top of this Steeple, but (for 
 this Steeples fake) to make in his conftant pra- 
 dife (as I did) to mount up the chief Steeple 
 of all great Towns. 
 
 13. The great Hofpital , built in a quadrangle 
 upon arches and round pillars, is a moil mag- 
 nificent thing. Really, if Sicknefs were not a 
 little unwholefome and troublefomej a Man 
 would almoft wifh to be a little lick here, where 
 a King, tho’ in health .might lodge handfomly. 
 The place where the lick people are kept, is 
 built crofs-wife,and in the middle ofthatcrofs 
 Rands an open Altar,where all the fick people 
 from their feveral quarters, and from their very 
 beds, may hear the Divine Service at once* 
 Four thotifand Men are entertained daily in 
 this Hofpital, and' therefore it hath great Re- 
 venues. S. Charles was a great Benefactor to 
 it, and gave away to it and other pious ufes, in 
 half an hour, five and twenty thoufand crowns 
 of Inhentance,which were fallen to him (being 
 a man of eminent birth) half, an hour before. 
 Indeed he had no other Wife than ins Church , 
 nor other Children than the Poor. 
 
 14. The irately Seminary* arid the College 
 for the Siviffers , are noble Buildings, arid the 
 
Part I. a to I T a L Y. § 5 
 
 15. The Lazaretto is a vaft Building, car • rhe 
 tying in compafs a thoufand and eight hundred n txo. 
 yards. It Hands near the Town Wails, yet 
 out of the Town, and is to receive into it thofe 
 that arefick of the Plague. There are as many 
 Chambers in it as there are Days in the Year. 
 
 In the middle of the fquare of this vaft Court, 
 or Quadrangle, Hands around Chapel, cover’d 
 at the top, but open on all Tides in fuch a man- 
 ner, as that all the People, from their feveral 
 Chambers and Beds, may behold the Prieft fay- 
 ing Divine Service, and joy.n their Devotions 
 to his. I have read in the life of S, Charles Borro - 
 mans, that in a Plague time he vifited thofe 
 that were infefted, and miniftred the holy Sa- 
 craments to them himfelf in perfon, and went 
 in a folemn Proceffion in the head of the Cler- 
 gy, with a Rope about his Neck, and barefoot 
 upon the Stones, to move ftony Hearts to re- 
 pentance, and to appeafe the Wrath of God, 
 angry with his People. 
 
 16. The Bibliotheca Ambrofiana is one of the jfa 
 heft Libraries in Italy , becaufe it is not fo coy 7." 
 as the others, which fcarce let themfelves be 
 feen *, whereas this opens its Doors publickly 
 
 to all comers and goers, and Puffers them to read 
 what Book they pleafe. It was begun to be 
 built by S. Charles ^ and continued by his Ne- 
 phew Cardinal Frederica Borrom&o ; but it was 
 much augmented fince by the acceflion of Pin - 
 centins Pinellfs Books, which, after his death, 
 being foip’d by his Heirs for Navies , and taken 
 by the Turks, were many of them thrown over-? 
 board by thofe An alphabet Rogue , who looked 
 for other Merchandife than Books *, yet many 
 
 G 2 oi 
 
$4 3 QO|)ap to IT ALT. Parti. 
 
 of them were recover’d again for Money, and 
 fet up here. Over the heads of the higheH 
 Shelves are fet up the Figures of learned men, 
 a thing of more coft than profit, feeing with 
 that coll many more Hooks might have been 
 bought, and learned men are belt feen in their 
 Books and Writings : Loquere at te videam. 
 lie Guile- 17 . Behind the Library Hands the Gallery of 
 'tuu s >1 ' where I faw many choice Originals cf 
 
 prime Mailers, and fome exquifite Copies, as 
 thole four pieces of the four Element which 
 certainly are copied after thofe that I deferib'd 
 above, in the Houfe of. the Duchefs of Savoy 
 near Turin, called La Valentine. -But the rarefi; 
 Piece of all, either in the Library or here, is the 
 rave Manufcript kept here, of Jlbcrto Dureo. 
 Three hundred pounds have been refufed 
 for it. 
 
 ?fc Domi- i 8. The Dominicans Library is very confide- 
 nicans Li- rable too : But you mult not omit to fee the 
 bw}* Refettory here, where you fhall find an admira- 
 ble Pidure of the La ft: Supper, made by rare 
 Laurent ius Vine ins. The painted Cloylter here 
 defervesa Viflttoo. 
 
 The Grate . J9 The Monaftery alfo called the Gratie ? is 
 one of the bell in Europe , in whofe Church is a 
 rare pidureof Chrift crown’d with Thorns, of 
 the h. nd cf Titian. 
 
 20 . The famous Gallery and Cudofities of 
 'I h Cali- CanonicoSetali , far better than that of Monfieur 
 mi oj Ca- Scrvier in Lyons, of which above. And here I 
 no hlo be- w jfh my Pen were as ingenious to deferibe all 
 the rare things of this Gallery, as the noble Ca- 
 non Set alt hath been in gathering them, and 
 c:oi iteaus in Die wing them : fome of thefe cu- 
 rious 
 
Part I; 3 mVtlQZ to ITALY. 85 
 
 rious things I yet remember, for my Reader’s 
 fakey as, a great variety of Barnwg-glaijfc ; , and 
 yet not Convex^ as ours ordinarily are, one of 
 them fet fire prefently to a piece of board an 
 inch thick that was brought forth. g. A Man- 
 dr agora. 3. A Bird without Feet, called by An- 
 Jhtle, Abodes. 4. A Stone, out of which is drawn 
 a thread, which being fpun and woven, makes a 
 Stuff-like Linnen, but of an incombuftible na- 
 ture:. The Stone is called Jsb'e(los y and the Stuff 
 Amyantkus , which being foul and foil’d, is n:t 
 to be made clean by wafhing in Water, but by 
 throwing into the Fire. Baltaz.ar Bom facias in 
 his HijloriaLudicra tells of many who had Inch 
 Stuff. 5. A world of rare Medals of the old 
 Confuls and Emperors in Silver, Gold, and 
 Brafs. 6. A world of wooden things, as alfo 
 Fruits and Fnngi^ all putrefied and turned into 
 Stone, and yet no Metamorphofis neither, the 
 things retaining their prilline forms. 7. Divers 
 curious Clocks, whereof one (hews the time of 
 the day (ftrange) even in the night by a quadrant, 
 
 ?. The little round Cabinet , Hat above like a 
 Child's Drum, with a fmooth Glafs^ the Ma- 
 tter fet ting little Ships, Coaches, &c. upon the 
 Glafs, they wheel and move up and down as it 
 were of themfeives, when all is done by a fym- 
 pathetical vertue, and by the Matter’s turning 
 fecretly a little Wheel, where there is fatten’d 
 fome Loadftone,and the little Ships andCoaches 
 having alfo fome piece of Iron in their bottoms 
 which touch the Glafs,and fo the Iron running 
 after the Loadttone moved by the Wheel, 
 makes thefe Ships and Coaches feem to move 
 of themfeives. 9. Apiece of a Thmderbo V, 
 
 G 3 which' 
 
 r 
 
 ' • 
 
 , . * 
 
 ' 
 
$6 9 dlO^agC to ITALY. Part I. , 
 
 which the Canon himfelf faid he cut out of a 
 Man’s Thigh firucken with it. io. Livers pie- 
 ces cf Coral juft as it grows in the Sea. 1 1 . A 
 Lttle Pillar two handful high, of Marble, fo 
 cracked, that it gapeth wide on one fide with 
 the crack, and is yet firmly united on the other. 
 
 1 2 . A world of rich jewels , ftran gc Stones, Ca - 
 wives, riElitres, Cryftals, little Inf mis in Wax in 
 glafs Cafes, and many other exotick Rarities, 
 which are better feen than deferibed. 
 some Pit- 2 1 . There are fome Palaces here ^ as that of 
 bees, t p e Q overners ^ ra ther vaft than ciirious, and fit- 
 ter to lodge Regiments of Guards in, than 
 roys. The Palace of Marini is of a noble ftru- 
 dure : That of the Archbifhop is very hand- 
 fom. 1 faw alfo the Palace of the Borromd 
 painted within at the entrance, with the Motto 
 of S. Charles , (who was of this Family) H 11 - 
 MILITAS. It’s related in the Life of this ho- 
 ly Prelate, that in twenty years fpace that he 
 was Archbifhop and Cardinal here, be went but 
 twice to viiit his own near Relations in this 
 Palace, and defeended but twice into his own 
 Garden in his Archiepifcopal Palace. The Pa- 
 laces alfo of the Fifcomi of the Sforzj , of the 
 7 rivuttii, and many others, deferve to be feen. 
 
 ' (be C aftk . 22. The Caftle or C it t addle is one of thebeft 
 
 in Europe, in the opinion of the Duke of Rohm, 
 who was a competent judge. It is fituate on 
 the back of the Town, and commands on every 
 fide. It’s guarded by a Garrifon of five hun- 
 dred natural Spaniards , with a Ipecial Governor 
 of its own, independant of the Governor 
 of Milan, it. looks more like a Town than a 
 Caftle, bring a mile and a half about, and fur- 
 
Part I. a etopcige to ITAL Y. 8 7 * 
 
 niftfid with all Conveniences a Soldier; can re* 
 quire. The large Streets in it, the (lately Hou- 
 fes and Palaces for the chief Commanders, the 
 neat Piazza’s, the number of wefi-furaifhd 
 Shops in vail kinds, even Goidfmiths too, the 
 live Fountains or Weils hot to be dried up, the 
 Mil!, the Hofpital ^ the Church, with eight or 
 ten Chaplains in it, and a Curate the fair 
 place of Arms, capable of fix: thoufand Men ^ 
 two hundred great pieces of Canon upon, the 
 Wails ^ the fix Royal Baftions,the regular For- 
 tifications or Outworks ^ the underground way 
 from one Baftion to another-, the infinite heaps 
 j of Cannon bullets, fome whereof weigh 800 
 pound weight •, the three large and deep Dit- 
 ; ches round about the Caftle ^ the (lately En- 
 trance, Gate, and two ftrong Towers, make 
 this Caftle one of the moll Cavalier Curiofities 
 a Man can fee in Italy . They Ihew’d me here 
 the Cannon which kill’d Marefchal Crcquy be- 
 fore Ertme, and for that Service it’s allow’d to 
 • reft here for ever. 
 
 23. The Shops of Cryftals, where you have ^ 
 a world of Curiofities in Cryftal ^ as Watch- 
 cafes, Twizer-cafes, little Boxes, Pictures cut 
 ; in Cryftal, Crofies and Beads of Cryftal, chr. 
 
 ’ The Shops alfo of Silk-ftockings, which are 
 hugely efteem’d in Italy ^ bepaufethey are twice 
 as ftrong as ours, and very maffive. The Shops, 
 inline, of Embroiderers, whole Embroidery in 
 j Gold and Silver is the belt in the World, and 
 the cheapeft. 
 
 24 Here is an Academy of Wits , call’d the the A-.tfe- 
 Nafcofti^ or Hidden Men. But why hidden ? rfivits. 
 \ Wir y like the Sun, (hould fliine publickl>% and 
 
 G 4 not 
 
88 
 
 3 CfopagC to ITALY. Parti. 
 
 not bury it felf, except it be to Lew us, that 
 as the Sun never Lines brighter than after he 
 hath been hidden in a Cloud, fo Wit never 
 Lines more, than'after it hath been hidden in 
 Study. Hence was that Saying of a grave Phi- 
 lofopher, abfconde vitam , that is, lye hidden a 
 while , at the Bag of the Booh, Indeed Deniofthe - 
 nes caufed his Hair to be Laved off, that by 
 that Deformity he might be afnam’d to go a- I 
 broad, and fo be obliged to ftudy at home. 
 
 As for this Academy, it helps much to animate 
 with Wit this great Town, which otherwife ; 
 would look like Polyphemus, (having loft his 
 Eye) great, but blind ^ Tumor non eft magni- 
 tude). 
 
 %ftdle timed 25, The moft famous Men of this Town for I 
 ■M cm learning have been thefc : Valerius Maximus for 
 
 Hiftory } tAlcktus, Decks and fafon, for Law • 
 Cardan for Philofophy'*, Panigarola and Paulas 
 Are pus for Sermons ^ Bomcina for Canon Law 2, 
 and Oft awius P err arks (whom 1 knew lately in 
 Padua) for belle lettere, 
 
 A jirorg 26 . Two other Men here are famous for 0- 
 
 Ecdy, tber things, to wit, Vberto Cmcio. , and 67 ;- 
 Leandro Uelmo P after ula * the firft fo ftrong, that he 
 Aberto. con \& fL 0 p a Horfe in his full gallop with one 
 hand, lift up upon his Back a Horfe laden with 
 Corn, and ftand fo ftifly upon his Legs that no 
 Man, tho ? running againft him with all his 
 force, could puL him out of his place or po- 
 Jftrong fture. The other without any Learning at all, 
 "Pftp except his firft Grammar Rudiments, could 
 with his natural Wit only, decide Law-cafes, 
 and make fuch good Orders, that thebeft Law- 
 yers could not find what to add to them. It’s 
 
Parti, sajopage tfl IT ALY. 89- 
 
 I pity thefe two Men had not been melted into 
 one, to have made one excellent Man, by their 
 clubbing Wit and Force together, and their 
 mingling of Sana mens with Corpsre fano. 
 
 The Revenues that Spain draws from Milan lJS 
 yearly are two millions and four hundred thou- nueSm ' 
 land Crowns, befidesthe Thirds, to which they 
 are obliged in time of War 
 
 This State, for a need, can raife fifty thou- Its 
 fand Men. strength. 
 
 He that defires to know the Hiflory of Mi - j ts jFfio- 
 lan , let him read Corio of theHiftory of Milan, runs. 
 Ripamontius , Scipio Barbono of the Lives of the 
 Dukes of Milan , and Paola Morigi. 
 
 Having thus feen Milan in fix days time, we 
 took Horfe for Bologna , fix days Journey from 
 hence, and pahed through Marignano, Lodi, Pia- 
 cenza , Parma , Regia , Modena , Fort Vrbano , and 
 fo to Bologna ^ of each I will fay fortieth ing. 
 
 Marignano is a little Town about ten miles BLarigran 
 diflant from Milan , and from thence to Lodi no ' 
 the way is moftpleafant,and level as an Alley. 
 
 Near to this Town Francis the Firff of France 
 fought with th eSwiffers a famous Battel, and kil- 
 led 16000 of them, and took Ludovkus Sforza 
 the Duke of Milan , who thought to have efca- 
 ped in the Swijfers Clothes, but was difeover’d. 
 
 Lodi is a good T own, and Frontier upon the Lrj! n m 
 Venetians *, the River Jidda runs under its 
 Walls, It’s call’d Lodi either becaufe it’s built 
 upon the Ruins, or near to old Lodi, which 
 was call’d Laas Pompeia , becaufe Pcmpey had re* 
 flor’d it. This Town is famous for excellent 
 Neats Tongues, and Cheefes as big as Mill- 
 flones. A. Gentleman of this Town caus’d four 
 
 Cheefes 
 
8$opaget0 ital y. 
 
 Fan I. 
 
 Cheefes to be made, each one weighing 500 
 pound weight. The People here mow their 
 Hay three times a year, and 1 am afraid they 
 are polled as often with Taxes. 
 
 JP iumiA* Piacenza, or Pltafancc, defer ves its name* by 
 
 > * ^ * reafon of its fv\eet fituation in a rich Country 
 near the Po and Trebia^wo great Rivers. Near 
 the lafl: of which Hannibal overcame Scmpromus 
 the Roman Conful. The Country round about 
 this Town is very rich in Pafturage j hence 
 their excellent Cheefes and rare Cream. It a- 
 boundeth alfoin Salt-pits, which afford 110 fmall 
 profit. This Town belongs to the Duke of 
 Parma. 
 
 jn iuri~ The heft things to be feen here, are, the E- 
 ii.s. queftris St atm of the fecond Alexander the Great , 
 or the firffc Alexander of Parma. It’s in Brafs 
 in the Market-place. The old Fountain made 
 by Augujhts Cajar ^ the rare Pi&ure of Raphael's 
 hand, in the BemdtiHns Church, behind the high 
 Altar ^ the Churches of the Dominicans, and 
 Canon Regulars , are no contemptible ones. 
 
 4 . piece of I obferved in this Town a notable piece of 
 
 ihrift. Thrifcinefs ufed by the Gentlewomen, who 
 make no fcruple to be carried to their Country 
 Houfes near the Town in Coaches drawn by 
 two Cows yoked together } thefe will carry 
 the Signora a pretty round trot under her Vil- 
 la * they afford her alfo a difh of their Milk, 
 and after collation, bring her home again at 
 night, without fpending a penny. 
 
 ]ti He that defires to know more of Piacenza, 
 
 J let him read Vmberto Loccatj . 
 
 Of, 
 
Parti. 3 (Homage to ITALY. g* 
 
 Of Piacentd, where Cornelius Muffo, Bilhopof 
 Bitonti , a great preacher, and a T rent Father ; 
 as alfo F err ante Paliavicini. 
 
 Parma belongs alfo to the Duke of Parma, of Parma, 
 the Houfe of Farnefe, This Dutchy was given 
 to Pier Luigi Farnefe , by Paulas III, upon condi- 
 tion it fhould hold of the Pope, and pay him 
 yearly ten thoufand Crowns ^ it’s worth to the 
 Duke two hundred thoufand Crowns: This 
 Town of Parma is three miles in compafs, hath 
 the River Parma running thro’ it, over which 
 is built a handfom Stone Bridge. The Country 
 round about the Town is moft fertile, and be- 
 gets fuch credit to the Cheefes, that Parmefan 
 Cheefes are famous over all the World. 
 
 The chief things to be feen in Parma , are 7 he Dukes 
 thefe • the Duke’s Palace, with the Gardens, P^e. 
 Fountains, wild Beafts, the admirable Theatre 
 to exhibit Opera's in } the exquifite Coaches of 
 the Duke, one whereof is all of beaten Silver, 
 with the Seats and Curtains embroider’d with 
 Gold and Silver another fo well gilt and a- 
 dom’d, that it’s almoft as rich as the former. 
 
 Laftly, the Stables, where I faw Hprfes fuita- 
 blc both in Hrength and beauty to the ’forefaid 
 Coaches. 
 
 Then 1 went to the Domo r whofe Cupola was Ue i>mo, 
 painted by the rare hand of Coreggio. 
 
 Laftly, to the Capuchins , in whofe Church TbeCapu- 
 lies buried my noble Hero Alexander Farnefe , ^! ls x ri , r 
 Duke of Parma , whom 1 cannot meet in this 
 my Voyage without a Complement. He was*‘ 
 the third Duke of Parma, but the tenth Worthy „ 
 
 Indeed his leaping the firft Man into theTurks 
 Galleys, in the Battel of Lepanto ; with Sw r ord 
 
 ■ ’ in 
 
92 ■ 3 Sopge 10 ITA L Y.- Part I, 
 
 in hand , and in the eighteenth year only of his 
 age^was fucha Prognoltick of his future worth, 
 his reducing Flanders again, with the prodigious 
 Adions done by him at the taking of Antwerp^ 
 was fuch a making good of the Prognoltick - 
 ^ ^ . and his coming into France in his Slippers and 
 ticks bold Sedan, to fuccour Rouen , befieg’d by Henry IV, 
 Quintus was fuch a crowning ot all his other Adions, 
 Curtins that his Hiltory begets belief to Quintus Curti « 
 to be a % and makes Men believe^ that Alexanders 
 can do any thing. 
 
 The Dice's The Revenues of this Prince are fajd to be 
 Revenues. Six hundred thoufand Crown* ay ear. He is now 
 hu Me- of the French Fadion, and in all his Territo- 
 Te fl* ries he can raife 28000 Men, 
 
 UeAclie- ^ ere * s an Academy of Wits, call’d the Inno- 
 my of wits minati, as they that had rather be wife than bo- 
 talked of, or famed for fuch. 
 
 This Town hath furmfh’d latly with two ex- 
 cellent Painters, Coreggio and Parmigiano. 
 its nift cry He that would know the particular Hillory 
 of Parma , let him read Bonaventura Arrighi. 
 
 Regie. From Parma we went to Regio^ a Town be- 
 longing to the Duke of Modena \ here is a neat 
 Cathedral Church, of which Church S. Proffer 
 was Bifhop. Of this Town were thefe three 
 learned men, Guido Pancirola , Cardinal Tofco , 
 and fharling Ca/rehetro. 
 
 Modena. Modena is the Town where the Duke keeps 
 his Court, It’s a hand fome Town, and by its 
 high Steeple (hews it felf to Travellers long 
 before tl; y come to it. It hath alfo a Urong 
 Cittadel which lying flat and even with the 
 Town,- fie wet h the Town, that indeed it can 
 be even with it whenfaever itfhall rebel. 
 
 The 
 
I Fart L a'Sfo? affCtO ITALY. 9* 
 
 The Palace of the Dake hath fome Rooms in 
 it as neat, and rich, as any I faw in Italy^ wit- 
 , nete thole Chamhers hang round with the Pi- 
 s' ftures of thofe of his Family, and Wainfcoted 
 I with great Looking- G Uffes and rich guilding. 
 
 This Duke is of the Family of Efte , but not Fhc Fmi _ 
 
 ! of the true Line : Wherefore for want of law- iy 0 f Efte. 
 
 ful Heirs Male, Ferrara and Commachio fell to 
 ; the Church in Clement the VlIFs time, and re* 
 main there ever iince. 
 
 Of the true Houfe of Efte, was the brave Cm mefs 
 Countefs Matilda the Dry-Nurfe , as I may fay, Matl da# 
 of the Roman Church. Foi it was Ihe defended 
 Gregory the VII. againft the Emperor Flenry the 
 VI. and brought him to acknowledge his fault, 
 and cry the Pope mercy. It was file aifo that by 
 Will and Teft ament Azit the Pope Parma , Regio , 
 
 Mantua. , and Ferrara. Hence Vrhan the VIII. 
 out of gratitude to this Pfincefs, caufed her 
 Statue and Tomb to be fet up in St. Peters 
 Church in Rome. The Will and Teftament of 
 this Princefs are kept in Lucca to this day. 
 
 Hard by Modenawzs fought the famous Bat- the loft 
 tie where Hirtius and Panfa being Confuls, the Con ~ 
 Senate loft in them its Authority. -* u u 
 
 Of Modena were thefe Famous Men in learn- j ts i ear . 
 ing. Cardinal Sadoletus , Carolus Sigonius , and ned Men . 
 Gabriel Falopius. 
 
 | In "Modena are made the beft Vifards for 
 Mafquerades • and it’s no fmall profit which 
 they draw from this fpolilh Commodity, feeing 
 
 Stultorum plena funt omnia. 
 
 The Revenues of this Duke are Three hun- 7^? nuke's 
 dred thoufand Crowns a year : and he is now Revenues. 
 oithsFnnch Fadbion. He can raife 30000 Men. Inu ~ 
 
 ¥xom reJt 
 
94 3 fljopage to I T A L Y. Part I; 
 
 His Forces From thence palling the River vve came foon 
 Ul ~ to Fort Vrban, a Cittadal moft regularly built 
 by the Command of Pop e Vrban the VIII. from 
 whom it’s called. It’s fo flrong, that it is not a* 
 fraid to Hand night and day alone in the fields, 
 
 Ca ft el and upon the Frontiers of the Pope’s EHate. 
 
 Franco. Palling from hence through C aft el Franco, anti- 
 ently called Forum Gallorum , we arrived be- 
 times at Bologna. 
 
 Mogna* Bologna is one of the greateft Townsof Italy, 
 arid one of the handfomeft. It^s the fecond of 
 the Pope’s Dominions • and the chief Univer- 
 lity of Italy for Lavv. Hence the Jurifts fay it 
 is, Aiujarum domus, atque omnis nutrjcula Jurit^ 
 and the very common Coin of the Country 
 tells you that Bononia docet. 
 
 It’s named by the Common Proverb, Bologna 
 Lagrafa : becaufe of the fcrtil Soyl in which it 
 Hands, to wit, in the very end of Lombardy * 
 and the many Springs which humeft it from the 
 Apennine Hills, at whofe feet it Hands. 
 
 This Country was aiitiently called Felftna , 
 Gallia Cifalpina , Gallia Togata , to diflinguilh it 
 from Gallia Brace at a, the Country in France 
 near Narbonne , and from Gallia Comat a, the 
 Country in France called La Guienne. In 
 middling Ages it was called Romagnola , be- 
 caufe Bologna, Ravenna , Cesuena, Forli , Faenza, 
 and Imola Hood conHant to the City of Rome 
 againH the Lombards for a long time. 
 
 As for the Town of Bologna now, it’s excel- 
 
 The Tom: lently well built, and for the moll part upon 
 Arches , like the Covent-Garden in London j only 
 the Pillars are round. Thefe Arches bring great 
 conveniency to the Inhabitants, who can walk 
 
 T* 11 ' 
 
Ym i; a damage to x T a l y* 9 5 
 
 all the Town over cool and dry, even in .July 
 and January . It’s five miles in compafs,and ah 
 excellent Summer Town, were it not that the 
 Air is not altogether fo pure, and the Wines 
 heating. It’s groverned by a Legat a Latere, 
 fent hither by the Pope, and in change, it fends Its Co- 
 and Embafiador to Rome to refide there : fo vemnetltt 
 that Bologna is treated by Rome rather like a 
 Sifter 1 than a Subject : and defervedly, feeing j ts Frhi - 
 Bologna fell not to the Church any other way bat leges. 
 by her free giving her felf to thcPope, referving 
 only to her felf fome particular Privileges • as 
 power to fend Enibafladors to Rome *, and that 
 if any Townfman kill another, and can but e- 
 i fcape away, his goods cannot be confifcated. 
 
 1 ftaid fix days here, in which time I faw 
 thefe things. ^ jhe Domb 
 
 1 . The Dominicans Church and Convent. In nicans 
 the Church, I faw the Tomb of S. Dominick Bonn- Church, 
 der of that Order. Its all of White Marble cut 
 with curious Figures relating to his Life. In 
 this Church is kept a Famous Manufcript,to wit 
 the Bibleit felf written in Parchment by Eftdras 
 him felf, faith Leandro Alberto, the Cambden of 
 Laly, and a Friar of this Convent. They fhew 
 you alfo here a curious Lamp fent to St. Domi- 
 nicks Tomb by the new converted Indians . It's 
 ofa mofir rare Workmanfhip. Behind the high 
 Altar Hands the Quire, fo famous for the Seats, 
 which are of rare Mofaick work of Coloured 
 _Wood, inlaid into Pi&ures reprefenting the 
 Old and New Teft aments ,and all wrought by one 
 Lay Brother called Fra. Damiano di Bergamo , 
 
 This kind of Mofaick Work in Wood was anti- 
 ently ( faith Safari ) called Tar ft a, and in this 
 
 kind 
 
9 6 9 (Hopage to I T A L Y. Part I, 
 
 kind of Work Brunellefchi and Mahno did good 
 things in Florence . But John Feronefe improved 
 it much afterwards by boiling Wood into fe- 
 veral colours, and then ; inlaying it into what 
 Poftures and figures he pleafed. This Quire 
 is fhevvn to Strangers as a rare things and wor- 
 thily, fince the Emperor Charles the V. had the 
 curiofity to fee it, and with the point of his 
 Dagger to try whether it was inlaid, or only 
 painted • and the piece which he picked out 
 with his Dagger, was never put in again for 
 a Memorandum. In this Church, 2s alfo in 
 the Chapter houfe and Cioifter of this Convent, 
 lie buried many Readers of the Law,- who ha- 
 ving lived here by the Law, died here alfo by 
 the Law of Nature. 
 
 The Domi- . 2. The Convent here is one of the faireft in 
 niexns Europe , in which i 50 Friars constantly live and 
 
 Convent. ft uc [y # The little Chapel, which was once S. 
 DpnrinicJi s Chamber ^ the vaft Dormitory • the 
 fair Library the great EefeBory , and curious 
 Celler are (hewn courteoufly to Strangers. 
 
 FeBocly g The Nunnery of Corpus Chrifli. It’s ofS. 
 therin-^ a ' Clare's Or der^nd famous for the B dy of Beata 
 Catherinadi Bologna a me ft holy Nun of this 
 Order and Convent. I faw her Body fitting 
 Rraight up in a Chair, in her Religious Habit: 
 She holds her Rules in her right hand ^ and we 
 fee her Face and Feet plainly, but thofe black 
 and dried up. 
 
 lie Corfo . 4, From hence I went on to the Town Gate, 
 
 a little out of which Gate lies a fair Street 
 where they make the Corfo of Coaches in Sum- 
 mer Evenings. 
 
 Turn’* 
 
 ■ 
 
 
Part I. 3 MOM* t6 I T AL Y. & 97 
 
 5 . Turning from hence on the left hand, ts+ Michael 
 went to S. Michael in Eofco a (lately Monaflery in 
 
 of Olivetan Fathers , Handing upon a high Hill. 
 
 From this Hill I had a perfect view of Bologna 
 under me, and of all the Country about it .* 
 which being level and Hr owed with a world of 
 white Houfes and Villas, looked like a Sea 
 leaden with Ships under fail. Entering into this 
 Monaflery, I faw the Oval Court painted by 
 feveral Prime Mailers, of which Guido Rheni 
 of Bologna was one. Then mounting up to the 
 Dormitory, 1 found it to be one of the faireft I 
 had ever feen. 
 
 6. The Monaflery, or Convent of the Fran- other flats* 
 ci/cans , with the rare row of Pillars, and Por- 
 
 tico towards the Street, the excellentGloiflers , nc5 ' 
 and the curious Cellar. 
 
 7 . The Monaflery of St. Salvatore with its 
 two vail Courts or double Gloifler built upon 
 Galleries above, it’s a noble Building. 
 
 8 . The Monaflery of the Servits , that of the 
 j4uguftins , and that of the Carmalites , are all of 
 them fuch (lately Buildings, that I may boldly 
 fay, that no Town in Europe is comparable to 
 Bologna for fair Monafleries. 
 
 p. Then I vifited San Petronio, (landing in P^tro- 
 the end of the great Piazza, of which Church nio ‘ s 
 Leandro dlbarto writ .a hundred years ago, that % rc " 
 he thought it would not be ended but with 
 the World. And I am half of his opinion : 
 for when I palled that way lad, I found the 
 Scafolds yet (landing, which! had found there 
 one and twenty years before ; and yet in all 
 my five Voyages into Italy , I found them al- 
 ways knocking and making as much noife and 
 H dull 
 
9§ 3 ddPitije t0 I T A L Y. Part 1/ 
 
 duflr, as if this Church fhould be finifhed with- 
 in half a year, when as yet half of it is only 
 finifhed. In this Church Charles the V. was 
 crowned Emperor by Clement the VII. 
 jheVmo . io. The Domo, which is not yet half finifhed 
 
 neither : yet that part which is finiflied pro- . 
 mifeth fair for the reft. 1 
 
 Qt l cr ? ii. The New Church of St. Paul hatha cu- 
 c kinoes. r j ous High Altar. In the Church of St. Cio 
 varni in Morte is the rare Picture of St. Cecily 
 of the hand of Raphael Vrbin . The jefuits 
 Church, the Church of St. Stephen, and that of 
 the Pajfion, defer ve to be feen. 
 
 •7k Legats j 2 . After the Churches and Monafteries, we 
 Tahce. went on with vifiting the reft of the Town, and 
 faw the Palace of the Popes Legate : in this Pa- 
 lace I faw the rare Cabinet and Study of Aldro- 
 . vandus, to w hem Pliny the Second i f he were now 
 
 alive, would but be Pliny the Sixth, for he hath 
 printed fix great Volumes of the nature of 
 things, each Volume being as big as all Plinf s 
 d -r Works. They fhewed me here two or three 
 study and hundred Manufcripts, all of this Mans own 
 Cabinet . hand-writing, and all of them N6tes out of the 
 beft Authors ^ out of which Notes he compiled 
 his fix great Volumes which are nowin print. • 
 Seeing thefe Manufcripts, I asked whether the 
 Man had lived three hundred years, or no, as 
 it's laid Joannes de Temporibns in Charles the 
 Great's time did : but it was anfwered me, that 
 he lived only fourfcorc and three : a Ihort age 
 for fuch a long Work • but it fheweth us how- 
 far a Man may travel in Sciences in his Life 
 time if he rife early and fp»r on all his Life 
 time with obftinate Labour. Certainly had he 
 
 wrote 
 
99 
 
 Part I. a (Elopage to I T A L Y. 
 
 wrote before Solomon , that wife Man would 
 have changed his faying, and inltead of fend- 
 ing the flothful Man to learn of the Pifmire 
 how to labour, he would have fent him to 
 Aldrovandus his Study and Example : Fade ad 
 jildrovandam piger. 
 
 13. The Great Schools here where the Do- 2 i k School's 
 ftors of the Univerfity read, are ftately both 
 within and without. 
 
 14. The Spanijh College founded here by no- TkSpa- 
 
 ble Cardinal Albernoz.z.9, deferves to be taken ^ Coh 
 notice of. It’s well built with a handfome 
 Church and five Priefts to ferve it. The in- 
 tention of his College is to furnifii all the 
 King of Spains Dominions in Italy with able 
 Magistrates and Officers of Juftice. None can 
 live in it but natural Spaniards ( except the 
 Chaplains,) and thofe Spania rds mull be Do- 
 ctors of the Law before they can be admitted 
 here ^ they only learn the language and Cu- \ 
 
 ftoms of the Countries, and perfect themfelves 
 in the ftudy of the Law, that they may be fit 
 to fill up the firft vacast places of Judicature 
 that fall either in the Stape of Milan, in the 
 Kingdom of Naples , or in Sicily . They have 
 
 a revenue of twelve thoufand Crowns a year. 
 
 They keep two Coaches, live very nobly, and 
 ledge all Spanish Embaffadors , Cardinals and 
 Prelates of their Nation that pafs this way. In 
 the College you fee the Pictures of many great 
 Statefmen and Cardinals and others who have 
 been of this College : but no Fixture pleafed 
 me like that of their brave Rounder, Noble 
 Cardinal Albemow, which is in the Church* 
 
 H 2 and 
 
100 
 
 3 Cllop&ge tfl I T ALT. Parti. 
 
 and reprefenting him in the fame poftuj*e he 
 was in, when he recovered all the Pope’s State 
 in Italy, unto the Pope then at Avignon ^ of 
 which I have fpoken fufficiently above in de- 
 fer ibing Avignon . 
 
 Tfx two 1 5 . The two Tower/ here in the midft of the 
 Towers. Town, the one very high and freight, called 
 Be gli Afinelli \ the other low and bending, cal- 
 led, La Cariffenda . They would make us be- 
 lieve that this bending Tower was made crook- 
 ed a-purpofe ; and it’s ftrange to fee how molt 
 Men make it their bufinefs rather to fee this low 
 crooked Tower, than the other, which is both 
 higher and freighter. But there’s no Myftery 
 to make things ill, and to mifs of .our aims ^ 
 and I rather think the Cariffenda or low Tower 
 went not up higher, becaufe the Archited per- 
 ceiv’d it went up awry. But we Grangers ad- 
 mire every thing in ftrange Countries, and that 
 makes that none admire us^ upon which ccca- 
 fion I would wifh my young Traveller never 
 to admire any thing in outward fhew, but to 
 look curioufly at every thing, with crying out, 
 O che Bela Cofa ! This will get him and his Na- 
 tion far more honour, for Admiration is but the 
 Daughter of Ignorance j and Magnammus (faith 
 Ariftotle ) nihil admir at nr. 
 
 The Houfs i 6. Then the Hottfcs here, which are general- 
 in Bologna ly well built, and in Summer-time fetting open 
 their Doors and Gates towards the Street, you 
 may look quite through their Courts. Entries, 
 Porches, Houfes, and a huge way into their 
 Gardens, which, even from thence, will f lute 
 your Eye with a fair profpeft of Fountains, 
 and frelh Verdure *, and your Nofe too with 
 
 dc- 
 
IOI 
 
 Part I. a aopage tfl ITALY. 
 
 delicate fmells of Jefominand Orange flowers. 
 
 Now the belt Palaces here are thofe of Mai- 
 vez^i, Oampeggi^P epoli^ Facbinctti, Cefpi , and o- 
 thers. 
 
 17. Thefe fine Honfes are full alfo of Nobili- r ^ Ko ^ 
 ty,and I remember to have feen here at a Corfoiity , 
 
 di ?aglio upon Midfummer-day , the long great 
 Street lined quite through with Coaches on 
 both fides,and thofe Coaches double lin’d with 
 Ladies and Cavaliers of Garbo. Indeed it would 
 be pity that fuch a ftately Town as Bologna 
 fhould, like Leyden in Holland , be fufl only of 
 Honfes and Boren . 
 
 18. Their Traffic^ here confifteth much in TheTrajfick 
 Silks, Velvets, Olives, Leather-bottles, Gellies, 
 Wafhballs, and little Dogs for Ladies, which 
 
 here are fo little, that the Ladies carrying 
 them in their Muffs,have place enough for their 
 Hands too. 
 
 t 9. Their Markets here are alfo well fur- The Mat- 
 nifh’d with all Provihons ^ witnefs their Sal- keu '\ 
 fieri, only, which are a Regalo for a Prince. 
 
 20. But that you may not think them better The Aade- 
 fed than taught ^ they have ere&ed here an my of Win. 
 
 cade my of Was, called Gil Otiofi , or Idlemen , per 
 antiphrafin , becaufe they are not idle. It’s this 
 Academy (I believe) which hath heiptto fetout 
 three excellent modern Writers of this Town, 
 
 Cardinal Bentivoglio , the Marquifs of Malvezxi The Lear- 
 and John Baptifta Manzani j the hr ft, a Titus ned Men. 
 Livius } the fecond, a Lucius Floras ^ and the 
 third, a Marcus Tullius of his time. To whom 
 I may add Leandro Alberti , the Camden of 
 Italy , 
 
 H 3, 
 
 21 . He 
 
■ 02 
 
 }he ffifio- 
 runs. 
 
 Remember 
 this Bolct* 
 tina, Tra- 
 veller, 
 
 ‘The Jpen- 
 vdn e hills 
 
 7'emrf. h 
 de Pceni- 
 tent, c, 12 
 
 Tioren^uo- 
 
 Ur 
 
 a eiopa se to I T A L Y. Part i. 
 
 21. He that defires to know the particular 
 Hiftory of Bologna , let him read Bartholomew , 
 Galeotti , and Giovanni Garzjc >, where he fliall 
 find how Bologna fuffer’d much anciently by the 
 two oppofite Fa&ions of the La?nbartaz,zi and 
 the Cere met. But now they enjoy quiet and 
 repofe under the Pope. 
 
 Having thus feen Bologna , and being arm’d 
 . with a Bo kt tin a di Sanita , taken here, to make 
 us be let pafs into the State of Florence ,we fleer- 
 ed on Horfeback towards Florence , and reach’d 
 it in two days, the firft days Journey by Piano- 
 ra , Loiano,Scargo,L Azino,Pietra Lialaflnd over 
 the Apennines, was long and tedious enough, till 
 
 • the night came, at which time we were much; 
 recreated with the fight of a Fire which appea- 
 red fome two miles off, in the fide of a Moun- 
 tain on our left hand. This Fire appears here 
 frequently, efpecially in cloudy weather ; and 
 it appear’d to me for an hour together as I rod e 4 
 along, to be (till of the fame bignefs, and of the 
 fame glowy colour (Furnace like) and of a per- 
 feel round form, and not pyramidiai, as other 
 flames are : the Country People here call this 
 Fire, La Bocca d' Inferno , HelPs Month ; and 1 
 know not why they may not as well call this 
 Fire fo, as Ten Allan calls F’efavius and zAZtna ( two 
 
 • burning Mountains Fumariola Inferni , Heffs Chim- 
 neys. Taken in fine, with this fixed Meteor, 
 we forgot the tedioufnefs of the way, and came 
 
 ' to Fiorenz,uola *, the next morning patting by 
 Scarf cria and II fonfa we arriv’d betimes at Flo- 
 rence* 
 
! Parti, aaopagetu ITALY. ioj 
 
 I confefs I ftirred not'out of my Inn that My arrival 
 \ night, becaufe Fair Florence (as the Proverb atVl ®' 
 
 | calls her ) is not to be fee n in foul Linnen 2nd re ‘ lce * 
 i Riding-boots; but' riling betimes the next 
 Morning, I made my Eyesfurvey filch Beauty, 
 as even Princes Eyes might feaft upon. 
 
 But 'before I come to the particulars of what 
 1 I faw in Florence, \ will conlider it in great, and 
 | then come to the retail of it. 
 
 Divers good Authors are of opinion that this Florence. 
 Town ftas firft built by Syllas Soldiers, to whom 
 he had given thisSoyl, for their fervices done 
 him in his Civil Wars. They built it near the 
 Current of two Rivers ( Arno a xAkMimio) and 
 from thence it was called at firft rFfoentia (as 
 CoblentTL in Germany, from the meeting of Pavers, 
 is called Confluent ia. Afterwards by the Inhabi- 
 tants it was called Florentia , by reafon of the 
 fruitful foyl which made it flourifli with all de- 
 licacies ; as alfo for the flourifhing Wits of the 
 Inhabitants, who were fo famous antiently in 
 point of Wit, that the very Romans ufed to fend 
 their Children firft into Tttfcany , to be bred in 
 Learning and Religion, and then into Greece , to 
 learn G> errand Philo] ophy. 
 
 I fpent a month in this Town, and the things 
 I obferved moft: were thefe: 
 
 1. The Chapel of St. Laurence , which is the the chapel 
 neateft thing that ever sye beheld. All the in- ^ , 
 
 fide of it i$ to be over-crufted with Jafper La ‘ ucivg "‘ 
 Atones, of feveral Colours and Countries, with 
 other rich Stones, all above Marble, and all 
 fo neatly polifhed and Ihining, fthat the Art 
 here exceeds the Materials. This Chapel is 
 rounds and round about are to be fixed within 
 
 H 4 the 
 
$ (Linage £0 ITALY. Part I. 
 
 the Walls, as high as a Man can reach, the 
 Tombs of all he great Dukes of Florence , in a 
 mod gallant manner, and of molt exquifite 
 polilhed Stones, with a great Culhion of fame 
 richer Stone, and a Ducal Crown of Precious 
 Stones repoling upon that Culhion. Over thefe 
 T mbs the Statues of all the Great Dukes, at full 
 length, and in their Ducal Habits, all of Brafs 
 guilt, are to be placed in Nicks round about 
 the Chapel. The Roof is to be vaulted all over 
 with an over-crulting of Lapis Lazuli ( a blue 
 precious Stone with veins ofGold ink) which 
 will make it look like Heaven it felf. Between * 
 each Tomb are inlaid in the Walls, the .Arms, 
 qrScutchions of the feveraiTowns of the Great 
 Dukes Dominions, all blazoned according to 
 their feveral Colours in Heraldry by feveral 
 precious Stones which compofe them : and ! 
 thefe are not made in little, but are fair great 
 / Scutchions made purpofelyof a large fize for to 
 fill up the void places between the Tombs : the 
 Towns are thefe Florence, Siena 7 Pifa^ Livorno , 
 Token a, jtre?„zo, Piftoia , Cortona , Monte Pal- 
 ciano , &c. which contributed ( I fuppofe ) 
 fomething each of them to this Coftly Fabrick. 
 
 In fine, this Chapel is fo rich within with its 
 own fiiining bare Walls, that it fcornsall Hang- 
 ings , Painting, Gilding, Mofaick Work, and 
 fuch like helpers ofF of bare Walls, becaufe it 
 can find nothing richer and handfomer than 
 its own precious Walls. It'S now above 
 threefcore years fince it was begun, and there 
 are ordinarily threefcore Men at work daily 
 here, and yet there’s only the Tomb of Fer- 
 dinand the Second, perfectly finiftied. The ve~ 
 
 '■ -V *1 
 
Parti. aiTapage tO ITALY. 105 
 
 
 
 ry Cufhion which lieth upon his Tomb, colt 
 threefcore thoufand Crowns , by which you 
 may guefs at the reft. Indeed thefe ftately 
 Tombs make almoft death it felflook lovely, 
 and dead mens aftes grown > proud again. As 
 for the Altar and Tabernacle of this Chapel, 
 
 I will fpeak of them by and by, when I will 
 defcribe the Gallery of the Great Duke, where 
 they are kept till the Chapel be finifhed. 
 
 2. The Church of St. Laurence , to which be- The Chun f 
 longs the Chapel, or rather to which this Cha- °f Su Lo ~ 
 pel belongs *, is a very handfome Church de- renl0 ‘ 
 ligned by Brunellefchi himfelf. The things that 
 grace this Church are the neat double row of 
 round Pillars which hold up the Roof of this 
 Fabrick. The Picture over the Quire painted 
 in the Roof, reprefenting the general Judg- 
 ment. It’s a bold piece , and of Pontornoz 
 The two Brazen Pulpits wrought into Hiftories 
 by rare Donatello : The curious deiigned Pi- 
 cture of S. Anne and our Blefled Lady, in chia- 
 ro e ofcuro , by Fra, Bartolomeo, commonly called 
 Del Prate, is fo well a deiigned Piece, that a 
 Duke of Mantua having feen it, offered to buy 
 it at any rate, but was refufed. The new Sa~ 
 crifty rfrade to ferve the fine Chapel defcribed 
 above) deferves tobe carefully vifited, be- 
 caufe of the Bbdiesof the Princes of the Family 
 of Medices , which are depolited here, till the 
 Chapel mentioned above be finifhed. In this 
 new Sacrifty alfo are feen the four Statues 
 made by Michael Angelo, reprefenting the Day , 
 the Night , Aurora , and the Evening - the four 
 parts which compofe Time, by which all Men 
 are brought to their Graves ; That which re- 
 
 prefents 
 
i o6 a mm? to I X A L Y. Part I. 
 
 prefents Night is a rare Statue, and hugely cry- 
 ed up by all Sculptors and Virtuofi. See alfo 
 in the Wall of the old Sacrifty the neat Tomb 
 of John and Peter Mcdices , Sons of Cofmits, fir- 
 named Peter P atria : It’s the work of jindrea 
 Varochio. In the midft of this Church before 
 the High Altar, lies buried Cofmrn Peter PetrU, 
 the raifer of the Medicean Family. In the Cloi- 
 fter joyning to this Church, is ere&ed the Sta- 
 tue of Panins Jovins the Hi dorian *, and near 
 floe Libra - to this Statue you mount up a pair of Stairs to 
 7 > the rare Library of Manufcripts, called Bibli- 
 otheca Laurent tan a , the Catalogue of whofe 
 Books is Printed at Jmfterdam Anno 1611 . 
 in OElavo. 
 
 3. The Gallery of the old Palace. This is 
 'rhe great that Gallery fo famous, and fo frequently vifi- 
 J^uies ted by all Strangers. At your entrance into 
 Gallery, t | 1 j^ Oallery you fee a vaft long Room made like 
 an L .* on the left hand of this Gallery, there 
 runs a perpetual glafs Window •, on the other 
 fide are fet a row of Piftures in great, ofthofe 
 . of the Medicean Family : under the Windows, 
 x and alfo under the Paid Pictures Hand a row of 
 curious Marble Statues, antient ones all, and 
 of prime hands. Over the Hid Windows 
 and Pi&ures runs a clofe row of lefs Pictures, 
 reprefentingto the Life, the molt famous Men 
 of Latter times for Learning and Arms , the 
 Soldiers being on the right hand, and the 
 Scholars on the left. The Statues aforefaid 
 are well nigh a hundred in all, but all rare 
 ones * Some whereof I yet remember, and they 
 are thefe .* that of Leda , of Diana , of Bacchus, 
 of HercdtSy of the Gladiator Handing on his 
 
 Guard, 
 
Parti. 3 (UcpngE to I T A L Y. 107 
 
 Guard, of Scipio Africanas in Brafs, fhewing 
 the ancient Habit and Drefs of the old Romany 
 far different from our modes, that of a little 
 young youth in Brafs, with his Sword in his 
 hand’, that of a little Boy Beeping upon a 
 Touchftone, the Head of Cicero in Marble, that 
 of Seneca, the Head of Michael Angelo Bonarota 
 in Brafs of his own hand making" .* in fine, 
 the Head of Brants, one of Cafar' s Mur- 
 derers. It was begun in Marble by Michael 
 Angelo , but informidly • and fo left by him : 
 
 If you will know the reafon why he finifhed it 
 not, read the diftich written in Brafs, under 
 this Head by the faid fculptor himfelf, thus : 
 
 M. Dam Bruti effigiem Sc alpt or A. 
 de marmore dacit, 
 
 B. In mentem fceleris V'enit, & F. 
 abfiimtit. 
 
 The four Corner letters fignifying that Michael 
 Angelas Bonarota Fecit . Among the Pictures I 
 took particular notice of thefe Soldiers, of p ^ ures 
 Hannibal that frighted Rome, of Scipio that took famous 
 Carthage and vanquifhed Hannibal, of Pyrrhus Soldiers . 
 that made the Romans glad to make Peace with 
 him, of Scanderbeg that made the great Tark st- 
 ir aid to fight with him, of Venerius that helpt 
 to win the Battle of Lepanta, of Alexander Far- 
 nefe that never loft Battle, of Cortefus that 
 •found out new Countries, of Magellams that 
 found out new Seas, of Andrea £ Oria who beat 
 the French by Sea, of Gaft on de Foix who had 
 beat the Spaniards by Land, if he had but known 
 how to life his Viftory, of the Duke of Alva, 
 
io8 0 ITOPage to I T AL Y. Part L 
 
 who only lamented dying, that he had never 
 fought a pitch'd Battle with the T Ms, of Anne 
 de Montmorancy , who died in a pitch’d Battel 
 againft the Hignots , of Ecc lino the Fauduan 
 Tyrant, of whom no Man can fpeak any good, 
 oiCaflrutio^oi whom no Man can fpeak any ill* 
 with a world of ether bra vcHcroes, with whofe 
 true looks I was very glad tc be acquainted. 
 Among the Pi&ures of the learned Men, I 
 liclurcsof took particular notice of thefe Italians , to wit y 
 Petrarch, Arioflo , Joannes Cafa , Poggio , Mac - 
 chiavel, Gukciardin , Paulo Jovio, Sannazario, 
 Bocaccio , Vlatina , Brunellefchi , Michael Angelo , 
 BaphelVrbin, Columbus, Americas , and Galileo , 
 with many others too long to relate, and too 
 many to be remembred. Having thus gazed our 
 fill at thefe Statues and Pi&ures, and by particu- 
 lar taking notice of them, complimented the 
 great Worthies they reprefent, we were let in- 
 to the great Cabinets, or Chambers \yhich joyn 
 upon this Gallery. 
 
 Firft,we faw the Armory, that is, three or four 
 The Amo- great Chambers full of exotick curiofities * as 
 the Habits of two Indian Kingsvm&z of Parrats 
 Feathers fowed together • the Habits of forne 
 Janifaries in Turkey , of red Velvet fet thick 
 with little Nails of gold, which they can take 
 out and drefs up other frits with ^ the habit of 
 the King of China *, the skin of a Horfe pafted 
 upon a Wooden Horfe, the Mane of which 
 Horfe is kept there in a Box all at length, and 
 it is above five Ells long : This Horfe had been 
 fent to the Great Duke by the Duke of Lorain. 
 Then we were fhown Hannibal's Helmet ^ the 
 
 Helmut 
 
Part Ir 3 ®0}>age to I T A L Y. 1 c 9 
 
 Helmet of CW/ei the V. the Sword of Henry i he 
 IV. of France , a curious Helmet thin and light, 
 and yet of Musket proof, a huge heavy Helmet 
 and Sword of one of the old Paladins of France \ 
 the true Sword of ; canderbeg , a world of Cime- 
 tars, Scabbards , Caps , Saddles^ and other 7 ptrleijh . 
 Furniture fet thick with TSurquoifes in Gold , a 
 great Gun, whofe thick Barrel is of pure Gold, 
 and yet as Jong as an ordinary fowling piece, 
 and as heavy as a ftrong Man can well level 
 with •* It’s valued at 1500 Piftols, and (hoots 
 twice as far as another Gun of Iron doth, but 
 kills (I believe ) with the fame pain that others 
 do, though with a little more honour. Here 
 is a great Piftol of Gold. Then the buona notte , 
 or Set of Piftols, ( five Piftol Barrels fet toge- 
 ther in an Iron Frame)to put into your Hat, and 
 to be all (hot off at once from thence, as you 
 feem to falute your Enemy, and bid him Good 
 night. The Piftole with eighteen Barrels in it^ 
 all to be fhot off at once, and fcattering defpe- 
 rately about a Room, fix little Cannons fet in 
 Star-wife. The little Brafs Cannon which may 
 be taken in pieces prefently,and fet together as 
 foon, and fo be carried eafily into any Steeple, 
 
 ■ or Tower : fuch Cannons as thefe might eafily 
 , be carried in deep Countries, and over high 
 Mountains, every Soldier carrying a Piece. 
 
 ! The Statue in Brafs of the King of Spain , Philp 
 1 the Fourth on Horfeback, .juft of the brightnefs 
 Of that of Geld which the Great Duke fent to 
 the faid King of Spain for a Prefent : It was 
 made by rare John di Bologna. Then 1 faw the Ar- 
 mour for Horfeand Man of two Kings of Perfia. 
 The Armour of the Great Duke Ftrdinad, a good- 
 ly 
 
I IO 
 
 the i. Ca- 
 binet . 
 
 8 (Hap geta ITALY. Part 1° 
 
 ly Man. The King of Swecde’ s Cornet taken in 
 Germany in a Battle. The Buckler with the Me - 
 dufds Head on it, painted by Michael Angelo. A 
 Turhfh Bell to ring in time of Battle. A Horn 
 ufed in Turkey to call Men to their Mofques in 
 Head of Bells, as we have. The head of a Hal- 
 bard ringing like a Bell. A Halbard to fold up 
 in three, and to carry under your Cloak private- 
 ly. A Staff of white Cane, in which are curioufly 
 engraven in black, theHiftories of th cApocalypfe. 
 It was the Duke of Vrbins. In fine, the Load* 
 ftonc holding up threefcore pound weight of 
 Iron * and holding one Key to another, for a 
 matter of five or fix Keys. 
 
 After the Armory, we were let into the five 
 Cabinets full of precious Jewels, Piftures’ and 
 other rare curiofities.. In the firft Cabinet I was 
 fliown a curious Candleftick to hang up in the 
 middle of a Room , with feveral Branches 
 fpreading from it, and all of yellow Amber , 
 including within it a world of little figures ox 
 white Marble or Wax, neatly cut in little ,and 
 appearing through thetranfparent yellow Am- 
 ber ‘ This Candleftick was given by the Dut- 
 chefs of Lunenburg, to the Duke of Saxony, and 
 by him to Prince Matthias Brother to this Great 
 Duke of Florence . In the fame Cabinet I faw a 
 Table of polifhed ftones of feveral colours and 
 luftre, inlaid into Birds and Flowers. The 
 head of Tiberius Cafar in one Turkey ftone, as 
 big as aDucks egg, and of an ineftimable value. 
 A curious Cabinet,or two of Ivory Cups, brought 
 out of Germany by Prince Matthias. In the fame 
 Cabinet I faw the picture of Cardinal Bembo 
 in a neat Atofakk work v and another piece of 
 
 divers 
 
Ill 
 
 Part i. a aiopage to i T a l y. 
 
 divers Birds in Mofaik alfo, rarely done by 
 Marcellas Provincials* • I fa w alfo there divers 
 little old Pagan Idols in Iron and Brafs, a de- 
 fign of Raphael's own hand *, and fome good 
 Pictures. 
 
 In the fecond Cabinet I law two great Globes , ? 
 which were made in this Room, being too great c 
 ever to be carried out, or brought into it by mu 
 the Door. 1 faw alfo here a curious Table of po- 
 lifli’d ftones, reprefentinga Town in Bohemia , 
 with divers Pi&ures of Men,Horfes,3nd Land- 
 skips : where there is a Tree represented mod 
 i naturally, becaufe it is reprefented by the very 
 Wood of a T ree Petrified into Rone, and look- 
 ing like Wood as it was ^ and fhining like po- 
 liced Rone, as it now is. The Statues, or Bn- 
 JhPs of three or four of the Great Dukes, in Por- 
 phyry, A curious looking Glafs over the infide 
 of the Door, which placed dire&ly over the 
 Picture of a Man, contrafts into it the Pi&ure 
 of a Woman that Man’s Wife) which you fee 
 plainly in it ^ drawing thus Eve out of Adam 
 again by a curious reflexion. 
 
 In the third Cabinet I was fhown a curious rhe £ £ . 
 Table of polifhed Stones reprenting perfeftly bineu 
 the Town and Haven of Legome , A great Ca- 
 binet of Ebony befet with precious Stones on the 
 outfide, and with theHiRory of the Holy Scrip- 
 tares curioufly exprefled in miniature in Several 
 little Squares of rich Stones fet here and there. 
 
 In the top of it there is a German .Clocks now out 
 # of order, and no Man dare mend it. Within 
 this gr«at Cabinet Lfaw the paffion of oar Saviour 
 curioufly cut by Michael Angdo in Ivory ( fay 
 they ) but I believe it’s in white Wax. There 
 •' is 
 
1 1 2 & aopage to I T A L Y. Part I. 
 
 is alfo in it the figures of our Saviour and his 
 twelve Apoftles in yellow Amber, with their 
 Heads in whiteAmber: All thefe feveral pieces 
 are not feen at once,butcome up into fight one 
 after another, as the Man turns them. 
 
 This Ebony Cabinet was fent to the GreatDnle 
 by the Duke "of Bavaria , and it’s valued at four- 
 fcore thouland Crowiis : I believe, if it were 
 to be fold, it would not yield forty thoufand 
 Crowns* but it’s handfome, faith Seneca^ for 
 thofe that receive courtefies,to value them high. 
 Here arc alfo fome Pi&ures of great value, as 
 the Adam and Evert the hand of Albert oD are 0, 
 an Original piece, valued at 1500 Crowns. An 
 original V'enm of Titian , that in the Poggio Jm~ 
 periale here (of which below) looking but like 
 a good copy of this. Here are alfo feveral Per - 
 fian Chairs, and other good Originals of prime 
 Hands. 
 
 The j.tL j n the 4th Cabinet, called II Tribuno we faw 
 
 c met. more r i c hes than in all the others. This 7W- 
 buno is a great Room built round with a Cupola , 
 whofe Vault is painted with a deep fangiiin red, 
 fet full with the fhells of Mother of Pearl. The 
 Walls of this Room are hung with green Silk, 
 and loaden with excellent Pi&ures of the prime 
 Mailers of the World, Titian , Raphael , Andrea 
 del Sarto ^inci^ Hans Ido lb aifi\ Van dike and others. 
 The St. John Baptifi is of Raphael's hand } as is 
 alfo that of Leo the X. with two Cardinals, Ju- 
 lio Medici , and Cardinal R&jji behind him. The 
 Pifture of Southvoel , Privy Counfeller to Henry 
 the VIII. is of the hand of rare Hans Holbain. 
 The Picture of our Lady with our Saviour in 
 her Arms, is of the hand of Andrea del SartOi 
 
 The 
 
tart Ji 3 QflpgC tO I T A L Y. i 
 
 The Pi&ure of Cardinal Bentivoglio fitting in a 
 Chair, is of the hand of Fan dike. There is alfo 
 a rare Pifture in miniature of GiiJieClorio* s hand, 
 and three fair pieces in 'miniature of an Augu- 
 fiin Briar yet living, and a Man of great efleem, 
 having taken the right courfe to befamous,that 
 is, to make but few pieces, but thole finifhed 
 with all the patience: which miniature requires. 
 
 In tfiis Tribun o I faw alfo the famous Nail, 
 half Gold, half Iron ^ made by the famous Al- 
 chymifl Thurnheufer . They (hewed me alfo a 
 great Lump of Gold, not yet Hampel into 
 Coyn • two (hells of Mother of F earl with their 
 tevo Pearls Hill flicking to them, and juH as they 
 grow •* The Pearls are rich Pearls and found. 
 The two pieces of Emerauld -Rock, the one 
 fcarce formed yet into perfect Emerauld, but 
 only begun: the other quite finifhed and green. 
 Then twoclofe Cupboards within theWalls of 
 this Room, in which I faw a world of curious * 
 j Cups and V af$$ of Cry Hal, Agate ^ Laois , Lazuli, , 
 and other fuch curious, but brittle matter, yet # 
 of rare Fabrick and Shape : they value them at * 
 
 '■+ two hundred thou find Crowns. The Vnicorns 
 j Horn , and the AlabaHer Pillar, are not to be 
 forgotten. The great Cabinet of Ebony Handing 
 at tne.further end of this Tfibntzo, full of anci- 
 ent Medals of Gold, Silver and Brafs, of the an- 
 i cient Gonfuls and Emperours, all digefled into 
 their fevera! Series ^ and yet this Cabinet isab 
 moll as rich without, as it contains riches with- 
 in* ^ being fet without with precious Hones of i 
 vail bignefs and value ^ to wit, a Saphir as broad 
 as a twenty (hillings piece, and half an inch 
 thick * ? a Ruby full as great, but far richer ; an£- 
 • 1 pier ah Id 
 
Ii4 '3 CLToj»age ta I T A L Y. Parti. 
 
 mranld not infer iour to the reft } a Pearl as big 
 as an ordinary Walnut} a world of Diamonds 
 and other lefier Stones, but rdl of fo great va- 
 lue, that this Cabinet, with that which is in it, 
 is valued to be worth five hundred thoufand 
 Crowns. Laftiy, I faw here the great round 
 Table made of inlaid precious ftones poliftied 
 neatly } A Table would make the moft hun- 
 gry Stomach forget its grumbling, whiiftthe 
 eyes are fed upon the unroafted Birds, which 
 together with curious flowers ccmpofe this 
 • admirable piece } Pearls, Rabies, Sapphires , 
 Cornelian, Emeraulds, Lapis Lazuli; &C. are em- 
 ployed here artificially to the making of thefe 
 Birds and Flowers. You’ll conceive better of 
 thisTable,when 1 Shall tell you, that it’s worth 
 a hundred thoufand Crowns, and that it was 
 fifteen years in making, and yet thirty Men 
 wrought at it daily. In the midft of it is the 
 great Ball of the Arms of the Duke of Ho- 
 race in precious ftones. 
 
 ihe ^ik The fyh. Cabinet Handing at the further end 
 t kj s Gallery, containeth the Altar and Ta- 
 bernacle, which are to be fet up in the new 
 Chapel of S. Laurence deferibed above. The 
 Cryftal Pillars curioufiy wrought, and being a 
 full Ell long, with vheir CapitcPi of pure Gold} 
 the four like Pidnres of precious Scones which 
 were five years each of them in cutting : the 
 Variety of other precious ftones fet thick here 
 and there, and of great ffee.- the neat contex- 
 ture of other poliihed Stones of feveral co- 
 lours apd luftre : the pictures of inlaid preci- 
 ous ftones, which ccmpofe the Antependmn of 
 the Altar : the variety of rich Cameos which 
 
art I. a (UOpage ta ITALY 
 
 it? 
 
 We fet here and there, and cut into Pictures ; 
 
 In fine, the whole compofure of this Altar and 
 Tabernacle, being the height of Wit and Ri- 
 ches, I can neither defcribe enough, nor you 
 admife fufficiently. • rBeJr- 
 
 4 . Having thus feenthe Gallery, aadadjoyn-^mr/i. 
 Iilg Cabinets , 1 was prefently led into another 
 quarter of this Palace, where I faw the Great 
 Duke’s Argent aria, or Plate . Entring into this 
 great fquare Room I faw twelve great Outboards, 
 as high as the Room, fet with excellent Plate 
 in all kinds. In one of •them they fhewed me 
 a whole fervice of beaten Gold, as Difhes, 
 
 Plates, Forks, Spoons, Knives, with a world 
 of other rich Veffels let in Gold ^ alfo little 
 Pi&ures in miniature % curious little Cablets 
 befet with Gold and Jewels ^ a Turkish Sci^tar 
 whofe Handle and Scabbard of Gold, are thick; 
 fet with Diamonds and precious Stones tw 6 
 other Swords with their Hilts of Gold curi- 
 oufly wrought with Diamonds ; a Dagger fui- 
 fcable to one of them, and of the fame rich- 
 nefs a great Grofs fet thick with Diamonds, 
 and other precious Stones, a rare Cup pf 
 one great Emerauld, with a cover to it of 
 the fame a Bafon and Ewre of Gold fet very 
 thick with Turky Stones. In another Cupboard 
 l faw great variety of Silver Plate in all kinds* 
 
 In another they fhewed me a Saddle and 
 Bridle with Stirrups of Gold, all fet thick 
 with Turky Stones, Diamonds, Pearls, ancfo- 
 ther rich Stones, with the Saddle Cloth, or 
 Houjfe, all embroidered with Gold and Pearl 
 this was a Prefent from the Emperor to the 
 Grand Dake, *In another Cupboard they ftiew-. 
 
 l z cd 
 
ii 6 3 Scrags to I T A L Y. Parti* 
 
 ed me the four great Silver Bed- polls enam- , 
 mcVd here and there, and fet with polifhed 
 Stones of divers Colours : They were made 
 for the Marriage feed of the Great Princefs, 
 Daughter to the late Duke of Orleans . In ano- 
 ther they fhewed me a curious /nttfendium for 
 for an Altar, all of beaten Gold let with Pearl, 
 precious Stones, and the Pidure cf Cofniw the 
 Second in the middle of it, of curious enam- 
 mefd work, with his ucal Crown fet with 
 Diamonds very richly : all along this Jrtepen- 
 dtum above runs an Infcription in Letters 
 compofed of many itubies each Letter being 
 two fingers long, and importing thefe words ; 
 
 COSMUS II. DEI GRATIA MAGNUS 
 D®X ETRURIA EX VOTO. 
 
 r 
 
 In another Cupboard I was Ihown the Foot 
 cf an Elan , an 4 a Fifard all fet, and covered 
 with T h'rky Stones. 
 
 The great Defending from hence, we were led in- 
 
 BaIU ro the great Hall of this Palace, a vaH Room, 
 painted on all fides of the Walls withhold 
 Fainting, reprefenting the Victories of the Flo- 
 rentines antiently. Here it is that on fr'id/m- 
 mer-day the Country People come and Dance 
 before" the Great Duke, and the bell: Dancers 
 are recompenfed with an Honourable re- 
 ward. 
 
 jhe long From whence I was let into the. long Cor-. 
 
 c enuor. y' t£ ) or ^ or c | c p e Gallery, which runs from the 
 New Palace to the Old, over the River,.and o- 
 ver the tops ofBoufes, for thefpace cf half a 
 mile, with many Turnings and Windings. It’s 
 
 very 
 
 pr ' •• 
 
 V 
 
Il 7 
 
 Parti. 3 fflOPitge to ITALY. ‘ 
 
 very ufefoll for the Prince when he will go fee 
 his precious Treafure in the old Palace, or elfe 
 go privately and hear how juftice is miniftred 
 there. For the Great Duke Francis gave order 
 to Buontaknti , a rare Archited, to break a Win- 
 dow from this Corridor into the great Room in 
 the old Palace, where the Magilfrates render 
 Jultice, but yet fo privately, that none fhould 
 perceive it. The Architect did it, by fetting 
 up there the Dukes Arms at large, and break- 
 ing a Window behind than lb imperceptibly, 
 that the Great Duke thro’ the little Holes made 
 in the fix Boule’s of his Arms, could both hear 
 and fee how Juflice was rendred there by his 
 [Officers. And one day hearing a poor Woman 
 opprefied by an unj uil Sentence, he Feat for the 
 Judges, and reprehending them feverely, he 
 reverfed the former Sentence, and hearing the ’ 
 Caufe a-new him felf, pronounced Sentence for 
 the poor Woman. 
 
 7. This long Corridor led us to the new Pa- Tlx nr® 
 lace, called the Paiazaj) di Fiti , becaufe it was 
 begun to be bulk by Luca Pifi , after the defign 
 of Briwsllqchi : but the expences gr6wing too 
 gre.it for Pitts Purfe, it was bought by the 
 Mother of great Cofmts the II. and afterwards 
 carried on by her to that perfe&ion we now fee 
 it in, and which makes it one of the prime Pa- 
 laces of Europe. The defign of it (for it is not 
 yet all quite built) is to be a perfedt Roman H, 
 with double Rooms on all fides. As you afcend 
 up to it, by an eafie afcent from the If reet, it 
 p relents you with a fair Broad-fide of building, 
 in which l counted two and twenty great Win- 
 dows all in a row, and all alike, and all of them 
 
 | 3 cheekt 
 
?i8 a Lepage 10 ITALY. Parti. 
 
 ,/ 
 
 The G&r- 
 4?n°' : 
 
 cheekt up on either fide by fine Stone PillarSa 
 The falhion of building in this Palace, as in 
 raoft of the beft Palaces of Florence , is that 
 which they call in Architecture, U maniera 
 mfiica • where great Free-ftones are made ad- 
 vancing a little one over the other. • Entering 
 into the Palace, we faw the fair Court-, and 
 in the end of it, the Grotta or Fountain with Si- 
 large Bafon, in which they keep Fifh fc r prefent 
 ufe.This Courtis fquare, and open only on one 
 fide towards the Garden, but hedged in with 
 a high Terrafs of Stone, whofe top is level 
 with the ground of the Garden. Beyond this 
 Terrafs and Court, lies a fine green fpot of 
 ground level with the firft Story of the Palace, 
 and half compafled about with a demicircle of 
 Laurel Trees high and thick. Under thefeTtees 
 of the demicircle, rife up Hone feats, fix rows 
 high, like the feats in an Amphitheater, and 
 capable of twothoufand Men, who may all fir 
 here with cafe, and behold the fports of Caval- 
 ry which areoften exhibited upon this fair green 
 fpot of ground by the Nobility : the Great 
 Du^e and the Court beholding all this from the 
 Windows of the Palace, while the r eft of the 
 Nobility and Ladies are feated conveniently in 
 the Amphitheater under the Trees. The reft of 
 this Garden is curioufly fet forth withThlckcts 
 of Bays, clofe fhady Walks, fine high open 
 Walks, over-looking both the Town and Coun- 
 try, great Ponds of Water, a world, of Statues 
 of Marble andStone, a rare round Bafon of Wa- 
 ter,' ‘with' Fountains, *and much wetting fports 
 the place for Birds and Beafts, the curious 
 Ice-Houfe, and cool (pellar under it, where the 
 -• ■ ■ ■ tin cr . 
 
Part I. 2 doMge tO ITALY* 1 1 9 
 
 ' 
 
 melting Ice dropping down upon the Barrels 
 of Wine, refrelh it fo exceedingly, that in all 
 my Life time I never drunk' fo cool as I did at 
 the Tap in this Cellar. But to return again 
 to the Palace from whence this Garden hath 
 led me •, from the Garden we afcended into 
 the Chambers of th c.Great Dukes Apartment, Ik? Buie's 
 and found them moft fumptuous, both for ccn- J P~ n ~ 
 trlvance and furniture. Some of them are Vltht ^ 
 painted over head by Pietro diCortonathc prime 
 Painter now living : others exped his return 
 again from Rome, and fcorp to be painted by 
 any hand but his : In another Chamber we 
 were fliown the Hiftory of Seleucns , giving to 
 his only Son Antioch^ (languifhing and pining 
 away with the love of his Mother-In-Law) 
 his own beloved Wife Str atonic a \ (hewing by 
 this llrange and unick example, that Paternal 
 Love is greater than Conjugal. All this is rarely 
 painted upon theWall over the Hangings. In 
 apnother Chamber(the Great Dales Chamber of 
 Audience) I fa\£ a Suit of Hangings valued at 
 a hundred, and fifty thou fa nd Crowns : The^/w sm 
 Ground cf them is Cloth of Gold., upon which ^ 
 are embroidered a World of Birds, Beafts,^'* 
 Flowers, Trees, Rivers, Landskips in Silk and 
 Silver ^ and in fuch a rich* manner^ that I take 
 this to be one of the faireft Suits of hangings 
 in Europe; In another Chamber here I few a 
 rare Coliedion of Pidures, all Originals^ and 
 of the beft’ hands in the world, Titians, Ra- 
 phaels, Michael Angelas, Andrea del Sarto's, and 
 many others. The beft of them is that of Ra- 
 phael, and painted by his own hand. This is the 
 belt Collodion of Pidures that I ever faw^and 
 
 I 4 . it 
 
, 0*5 
 
 12 © 
 
 a aiopagetolTA^Y; Paftl 
 
 it belongs to Prince Leopold the Great Dukes 
 Brother and a great Firtuofo. In the Great 
 Dutch dies Chamber I faw half a dozen of ex- 
 cellent pieces of Raphael. and others. In another 
 Chamber (the Dukes Bed chamber) we faw 
 his curious Therometers , or Weather-GlafTes, 
 which are moft curious. *ln another Chamber 
 (the Doors being fet open for the nonce) we 
 . looked through fixteen Chambers at once* and 
 all of them fair great Rooms upon one Floor. 
 And after all the Rooms ofthisHoufe (as, the 
 Cool, low Summer Room, the Masking Room, 
 the feveral Apartments of the Great Prince 
 Son of the Great Duke, and of Cardinal John 
 Carlo , Prince Matthias, and Prince Leopold , all 
 three Brothers of the Great Dab, and all lodg- 
 ing at once in this great Palace) by fpeckl fa- 
 vour we got the fight of the Great Dukes fair Dta- 
 Ihefmcm mov'd , which he always keeps under Lock and 
 Diamond. Key .It’s abfolutely the fairefi: in Europe, 1 1 weigh- 
 eth 1 38 Carats, and it’s almofl an inch thick: and 
 then our Jewellers will tel] you what it’s worth. 
 I 'am fore Monfieur $imom in Lyons (a famous 
 Jeweller) to whom I fhewed the weight and 
 thicknefs of it, valued it to be richly worth a 
 hundred thoufand Crowns between Merchant 
 and Merchant, and a hundred aatl fifty thou- 
 fand Crowns between Prince and Prince. 
 
 7 he An- ' 8. Going from the Great Dukes Palace, we 
 
 uftins fell prefe fitly: upon the jiugufttns Church. This 
 Church. j s a neat Chime h-defigned by Brtimlefcbi , and 
 much beautified with bandfome Pillars. The 
 
 Tabernacle and high Altar coll a hundred thou- 
 fand Ct ow ns, 3rd yields to few in Italy for 
 lieatnefs and fUt e< Behind th^ High Altar in 
 
 the 
 
121 
 
 Patti, a to ITALY. 
 
 the very end of the Church, is a rare Pifture 
 of our Saviour abfolvingthe poor Woman cateh- 
 ed in Adultery. Theconfulion that appears 
 in the Face of this Woman, makes it appear 
 what a rare Painter Allori was, who made this 
 Pi&ure*. 
 
 9. Palling from hence over the Bridge(where rk vh\- 
 four white Marble Statues reprefenting the %a. 
 four feafonsdf the year, ftand, all made by 
 Michael Angelo) we came to the Piazza of the 
 Gran Duca, where I faw the Equeftrian Statue 
 of Cofmus the Great in Bronze, with hisVi&ories 
 and prime a&ions in the Pedeftal of the fame 
 Metal. At the corner of the old Palace in this 
 Piazza , ftands the brave Fountain,with a Nep ■ 
 tune, Britons , and Nereides. Near the Gates of 
 the Palace here, ftand two* Statues of more 
 • t.han Gygantean bulk .* that of David is the 
 hand of Michael Angelo : and that of Her- 
 cules killing Cacus is of the hand ©f BandinellB 
 The other Statues here in the Portico hard by, 
 are much cry’d up for rare Pieces, as that of 
 Per feus in Bt afs ^ that of the rape of the Sabins 
 in Marble • and that of Judith in Brafs, holding 
 a Sword inone*hand, and Holofernes his head in 
 the other. 
 
 10. Looking up from this Piazza to the top 
 of the palace, I beheld the high T omr mounted 
 thereupon. It’s a hundred and fifty yards from 
 the ground, and which is the wonder, it hath 
 no other foundation than the Wall of the Pa- 
 lace and the top of the Houle : Hence it’s faid 
 thatthe Florentines have three wonderful To- ^IrabU 
 wers . one in. the Air, to wit, this Tower: ano- f Qmr s, 
 ther in theWuter, to wit, the Banal of Legom: 
 
 • and 
 
1 2 ? a mn$z ta I T AX J. Part I, 
 
 and the third in the Earth, to wit, the Campa- 
 nile of Florence , whofe Foundations are exceed- 
 ing deep in the ground. 
 
 ii. Going from the Piazza towards the 
 Domo, vve were prtfently ftopt by the Church 
 of S. Michael , a fquare flat Churchy whofe out- 
 fide is adorned with rare Statues. The beft 
 are, that of S. Matthew in bra fs made by Lm- 
 rent jus Cion k that of S. Thorns in* brafs touch - 
 The church j n g the f i( ] e 0 f 0ur Saviour, with great de- 
 MckH. mon ^ rat i° n of diffidence in his looks, is of 
 jindrea Farrochios \ land. That of S. Peter in 
 Marble is excellent for the Drapery of it. That 
 of S. George in Marble is compared to'the beft. 
 in Rome, and hath been praifed both in Profe 
 and Ferfe: that of St. Mark hath fo grave and 
 honeA a Countenance, that Michael Angelo (a 
 competent Judge) flopping one day to behold, 
 it, and being asked what he thought of it, an*, 
 fwered, if St. Mark had fuch a countenance 
 as this, as • it’s likely he had, a Man might 
 almoft, for his looks fake, believe all that he 
 WTote. 
 
 jp om6 , 1 2 . Going from hence we were prefently at 
 the t>omo . Thi , 1 believe, was the. fineA Church 
 in Italy when it was built. It was anciently, 
 called S. Repot at oa Churchy but finds it is cal- 
 led Santa Maria Florida , a fit name for the Ca- 
 thedral of Florence . The Foundatkmsaad Ar- 
 chitecture of it were contrived by Arrolfo diLa » 
 pOyZDktchman, and a la maniera ntfitca , faith Wa~ 
 fan of it, in his Lives of Painters. It’s one of 
 the neateft Churches without that I ever be- 
 held *, being clad in white, red, and black Mar- 
 ble, but it’s only white plaftered within, with 
 
 Pillars 
 
Part I.' g 2 J 0 t>an;e to I T A L Y. 125 
 
 Pillars of a dark coloured Free-ftone. It feems 
 as if theArcbiteft of this Church had been fome- 
 what of Diogenes his mind : and' as the latter 
 thought the World would be' turned up-fide 
 down one day ; fo the former might be of o- 
 pinion that the World would be turned infide 
 out, and that then this Church would be the 
 faireft in theWorld, and all lined with Marble: 
 
 As it is, it looks a little Hypocritically *, tho’ 
 theStrudure within be of a notable contrivance. 
 
 On the top of it Hands mounted a fair Cupola, 
 
 (or Tholus) made by B rune lief chi ?Elorentinc.Th\s Tk Cupo- 
 was the firft Cupola in Europe } and therefore the ll ' 
 more admirable for having no Idea after which 
 it was framed ^and for being the Original even 
 of that of S. Veters in Rome, after which fo ma- 
 ny young Cupola's in^owe,and elfewhere, have 
 Been made fince. Hence it is faid, that Michael ' 
 Angelo coming now and then to Florence (his 
 Native Country) whiles' he was making theCV- 
 pola in Rome of S. Peters Church, and viewing 
 attentively this Cupola of Florence , ufed to fay 
 fo it ; Come te non voglio * tneglio di te non pojfo . 
 
 It’s faid al-lo, that Brunellefchi making this C«* 
 p6la, caufedTaverns, Cook-lhops and Lodgings 
 to be fet in it, that the Workmen might find 
 all things necefiary there, and not fpend time 
 in going up and dowri : and he had reafon,fcr 
 this Cupola from the ground below, to the top 
 of all the Lantern , is two hundred and two Brae - 
 cie or yards high. The ftraight Paffage from 
 the top of the Cupola to the round Brazen Ball, 
 is thirty fix yards high. The Ball is four yards 
 wide, and capable of four and twenty Men : 
 and theCrcfs at the top of this Ball eight 
 
I 
 
 a Sopap ts I T A L t. Pirt I, 
 
 yards long, The Hraight Paflage upon the Ball 
 is neatly contrived like around Chimney of 
 white Marble, with holes on both fidcs, and. 
 brazen Heps crofs thofe holes to climb up ea- 
 fily by hand and foot, the paffitge being clean 
 and fmooth. From the top of , tms Cupola^ tar , 
 king a perfed view of Florence under us, and of 
 the whole Country about it, with the fight of 
 two thousand Viliams or G antry Houfes, feat- 
 tered here and there, rqund about the Town, 
 we came down again to view the in fide of this 
 Church. It is about. three hundred Foot long, ■ 
 from the great Door to the Quire, and from 
 thence to the end almoft two hundred more. 
 The Quire is round and perpendicularly under 
 the Cupola , being of the fame bignefs and, up- 
 on folemn days, when the wax Candles are light- 
 ed round about it, it looks glorioufly : other- 
 wife in winter time it feems too dark. The* 
 High Altar, which Hands in this Quire, is plain 
 like thofe of ancient Cathedrals, and adorned 
 with a rare Statue of a dead' Jefus in white 
 Marble, made by the hand of Bandimlli. Look-r 
 ing up from the Quire to the Cupola,you fee it 
 painted on the inlide with a reprefentation Qf 
 Heaven, Hell and Purgatory. The Painters 
 were Georgio Vafari , and Thaddeo Zxccbari. be- 
 hind the Higher Altar are the rare Statues of 
 Adam and Eve, by the hand of Bandtnelli . Near 
 the Door of the SacviHy you may read an in- 
 feription, importing how that in this Town of 
 Florence had been held a General Council, where 
 the Re-union of the Lrtin and Greek Church had 
 been made. The Golden Diploma of this union 
 written both in Latin and Greeks andfubferib’d 
 
 unto 
 
Parti. 8S?opaget0 ITALY; 125 -7 
 
 unto by the hands of the Pope and Cardinals on 
 the one fide *, and by the Emperor, of Confian- 
 tinofle, with the Patriarch of Constantinople, and Leandrg 
 the . Ak Biihops on the other fide • to which 
 ^re pit the Leaden Seal of the Pope, and the lt e ^ : 
 Golden Seal of the faid Emperor ^ It is kept in 
 the Archives, or Regdl.rs of Bologna. In this'7^ Com* 
 Council both the Pope of Rome, Eygenim \V . 
 and Faleolugiv the Emperout of CGnftantinofk, rence ’ 
 were pr efent, with the Cream of Bifhops, both 
 of the Eailern and W^ftern Churches ^ and in 
 this Council not only the Proceffion of the Ho- 
 ly Ghoft :rom the Father and the Son was fa- 
 vourably vindicated , but alfo that there was 
 anEIiay that Purgatory fhould be proved fo the 
 Greeks , out of their own Fathers as well as from 
 the Latins ^ and divers other points of Cere- 
 mony and Pradice were afferted and' great en- 
 deavours made that they fhould be eftablifhed. 
 
 Unto all which it is pretended that the laid 
 Emperor and Patria rch,andthe othtvGreck. Bi- 
 fliops (except pnl y Marcm Ephefinw) fubferi- 
 bed ^as did alfo the Ar mcnians, Ethiopians, G eor- 
 ' gians, and Jacobites ho all hereupon were ad- 
 mitted to Communion by the Roman Church. 
 
 In fine, in, this Church you fee -the Statues of 
 divers Saints, who have been Archbifhops of 
 this Town and the Tombs of divers Famous 
 Men • as of MarfilinsFicinus the FlatonickChri- 
 ftianPhilofopher of Dante the Florentine Poet , 
 vvhofetrue Pidure is yet to be feen here in a red 
 Gown : of Joannes Acmirn an fyglijh Knight, 
 and fometimes General of th ePifnni, as the old 
 Gothick Letters fet high upon the Wall un- 
 der his Pidure on Hoi feback, told me. Yet 
 
 Frr- 
 
1 2 6 '2 (LtOgage 10 ITALY. £art Ii 
 
 'in his nr- fferflegan will not have him to have been cal- 
 fltmionof l ec j sir John Sharpy but Sir John Hankwood . But 
 tdUgencT. lt i m P or ts little to me what his name was, fee- 
 ing he was a brave Englitywian^ and deferved to 
 see B^ker have his Tomb and Inscription here, and his 
 the Third. among the other Worthies in th tDuhes 
 
 Gallery. Here’s alfo in this Church the Tomb 
 of Bninellefchi^ ok Philipp m Brunaltiw, who made 
 the Cupola ai this Church 5 as alfo the Tomb 
 of Giotto , who made the Campanile^ or fine 
 Steeple here. And in fine, here lies Cimabue 
 "the Lives ^ f anfl0lis Painter of his time. It was he that 
 IfpJmers, firftreftored Painting again, which had been 
 in Ciina- * loft for many year in Italy , and taught it to 
 bue. Giotto^ Gaddi % Taffi, and others, who carried it 
 The cam- on to a great height. 
 
 * x m e * 13. Near to the Dorn Hands the Campanile , 
 
 or high Steeple of Fhrerice made by Giotto. It’s a 
 hundred and fifty Braccie , or little yards high, 
 and half as deep in the ground. It’s flat at top 
 and crufted all over with curious little poliffi- 
 i ed Marble Stones, Marble Pillars, and Statues }. 
 fo that, (as Charles the V. faid of it) if it had a 
 cafe to cover it withal, and hinder it from be- 
 ing feen too frequently, Men would flock thi- 
 ther at the taking off of this cover, as to fee a 
 wonder. Indeed it’s a kind of wonder, to fee 
 that in three hundred years Apace, not the leaf!: 
 part of that Steeple (allcrufted over with Mar- 
 ble) is perifhed. There are divers good Statues 
 on all fides of it, but the bell of them all is that 
 of the Zuccone , or Bald Man , made by Donated 
 /a, which he himfelf efteemed fo much, that when 
 he would affirm any thing ferioufly, he ufed to 
 fay, Alla fe cWio fortoal, /Mo Zuccfrte ; and the 
 
 fame, 
 
Fart t 3 £0 1 T A L Y. .227 
 
 fame Donatello having finifhed it, fpoke to it, 
 in Jeft, and faid - 7 Favella 7 horfa y favella 7 o ti 
 >wjga ilcaca fangue ^ fueh good conceits have 
 fantaftical Men of themfelves and their own 
 works. * 
 
 14. Near to the Domo alfo, Hands the Bap- rkBm*. 
 tifrery, or round Church of St. John, where all flew? 
 the Children of the Town are Baptized. The 
 Brazen Doors of it (three in al!) are admirable, 
 efpecially that; which looks towards the Great 
 Church, of which Michael Angelo being asked 
 hisopinion, anfwer’d,That it was fo well made, 
 that it might Hand at the entrance of Paradife. 
 
 Thefe Doors are all of. Brafs hflloried into fi- 
 gures, containing the Remarkable Hiftories of 
 both the Teftaments. They wen? the work of 
 brave Laurentm Cion 7 who fpent fifty years in 
 making them : a long time, I confefs \ but, this 
 is it which Applies called aternitati pjngere 7 to 
 work things that will out-laft Brafs, and be fa- 
 mous for ever. Within this Baptijlerf 1 faw 
 a Statue of St. Mary Magdalen of the hand of 
 Donatello j and it’s a rare piece, if you confider 
 Magdalen in her Pennance. Here’s alfo a neat 
 Tomb'of Baltajfar Cojfa , once called John the 
 XXIV, but depoled in the Council of Confirmee 
 for the Peace of the Church. The Tomb of 
 this Baltajfar looking fomewhat like a Cradle, %jf Qn r a 
 may be called the Cradle of the greatnefs of i n 
 the Mediccan FamilyTor fomeWriters fay,that hisCom- 
 CbfimtsMedices , firnam’d a! te rw a r ds PaterPatri^ Pl n ^ 
 being Heir of this Baltajfar Cojfa (who died at'™* 
 Florence , in the Houfe of John Medkes ) with 
 the Money that he found belonging' to ‘him .af- 
 ter his death, did fuch good Deeds to the peo- 
 
 pie 
 
128 
 
 a ®0?.ag;e to i T a l ¥;>• P|rt j- r 
 
 plc^ that he won to himfelf the name of pa- 
 ter FatrU i and to his Family that credit* 
 which got it afterwards the fupream com- 
 mand. 
 
 15.? cannot omit here to take notice of a 
 little round Pillar, m theFiaz.z,a$ near this Bap- 
 tiflery, with the figure of a Tree in iron naiPd 
 to it, and old words engraven upon it, import 
 ting, that in this very place flood anciently an 
 Elm-Tree, which being touched cafually by the 
 Hearfe of St. Zenobius, as they carrjed it here 
 inProceffion, theTree prefently hereupon bud- 
 ded forth with green Leaves of flveet Odour,- 
 though in the Month of unitary. In memory 4 
 of which Miracle, this Pillar was fet up in the 
 fame place for a memorial 
 The 'Church 1 6 . From thence going to the Church of $. ' 
 
 fc/J.Mark. Mark belonging to the Dominicans ,.I faw there 
 
 the Tomb of S .Antoninus, Arcbhifhop once -of ! 
 this Town, and Friar of this order. TheTomb 
 is under the Altar, in a neat Chapel on the left 
 hand, made by John di Bologna . In this Church 
 alfo 1 faw a^are Pi&ure of" S. Mark, made by j 
 Bartholomeo del Frate , it Hands full in your 
 light as you enter into the Church-, and a j 
 Man muft be blind not to fee it, and dull not 
 to like it. On the left hand, as you enter in- j 
 • to the Church, is the Tomb of Ficus Mir an-. \ 
 dula, commonly called the Phoenix of Prin- 
 ces, with this Epitaph written upon the fide of , 
 the Wall 
 
 Joannes jacet hie Mir an dula, cater a nor Pint. 
 
 Et Tagus & Ganges j for fan & Antipodes. 
 
fart I. aaiopage to ITALY, 129 
 
 Near this Tomb is a fine Pidure upon an Al- 
 tar, where two little Angels are made playing 
 upon Mulical Inftruments, Thefe Angels are 
 held to be the rardl Pieces that can be feen in- 
 Painting. They are of the hand of Bartholomeo 
 M Prate. In the Convent of thefe Friars I faw 
 often their Still-Houfe, where they make and 
 fell excellent Extractions and Cordial Waters, 
 
 There is alfo a neat Library here filled with 
 good Books. 
 
 17. Turning from hence on the left hand, ITbe An- . 
 came prefently to the Ann me i at a ^ a place of^ckuo 
 great Devotion. The Pidures of Faith and 
 Charity over the Arch in the Antiporto, or o- 
 pen Porch built upon Pillars,are of the hand of 
 y Acomo Tontcvno , being but yet nineteen years 
 old *, which, when Michael Angelo firft faw, he 
 faid, This Jacomo, if he continue thus, will car- 
 ry up Painting to the skies. Entering into the 
 little Court that {lands before the ChurchDoor y 
 you fee it painted round about in Frefco by rare 
 hands. Thofe Pieces thztAndrea del Sarto made, 
 are the bed, and his Head in white Marble is 
 fet in the YVall. In the Cloifter, over the door 
 that goes into theChuch, is feen a rare Pidure 
 in Frefco , upon the Wall of the hand of Andrea, 
 del Sarto . It reprefents the Virgin Mother with 
 cur Saviour upon tier knee, and St. Jofeph in a - 
 cumbent polture, leaning upon a Sack full ftuft 
 and reading in a Book. The Pidure is admi- 
 f rable for fweetnefs and ma jelly, and is allied 
 La Madonna del Sacco , and it got Andrea fuch 
 credit, that Titian himfelf preferred it before 
 all the pieces he had ever feen, and ufed often 
 to fay, that it grieved him, that he could net 
 
 K often 
 
SI <[3.0?3g£ to I T A L Y. Part © 
 
 often fatiaie.his fight with the beholding of To 
 rare a -Pi & are ^ and Michael Angelo talking once 
 in Rome with Raphael Vrbin concerning Pain- 
 ters, faid thus to him : There is vnhmm corto , 
 
 0 little fellow in Florence (meaning this Andna) 
 who had he been employed in great matters as 
 thou ait, would make thee fweat again. Air- 
 thofi make a gi eat cl ifpute w hich of thofe three 
 painters was the rnoft excellent .* RaphaelVnbin, 
 Mi chad Angelo or Andrra dt l Sarto. But the 
 Vvifefb give every one his particular praife or 
 excellency : Raphael was excellent in colwiiMi- 
 chad Angelo in defign * and Andrea in making 
 things feem to be of rclkv% and look as God 
 made them, that is, pulpy, and riling, up like 
 livingflelh. Having thus admired the work of 
 Andrea , we entred into the Church of the Ay- 
 rntncuita , and there faw the curious Silver Al- 
 tar, behind which, upon the Wall, is kept the 
 miraculous Figure of the Annunciation, which 
 gives the name of Annmcma to this Church. 
 The little Picture of our Saviour* about a foot 
 and half long, which is feen upon the outTide 
 of the Tabernacle, is of the for eft id AndfcJfs 
 hand, and much efteemed. In t his Church li- 
 eth buried Baccio Bmdinelti y a famous Sculptor, 
 in a curious Marble Tomb, with his own and 
 hisWives Pictures engraven in Marble with his 
 own band. Behind the .Quire lies buried Joan- 
 
 nes di To gna,% fatuous Sculptor alfo, as his fe- 
 veral worxs in Florence fasti him to have been^ 
 as the Rapt of the Sabins before the old Palace. 
 The Cent aure in the Streets. The Chapel of S. 
 Antoninas in S. Marks Church. This Chapel in 
 the Am uric lata here, and the golden Horie and 
 
Part I. 9 filopage ta I T A L Y. i 3 i 
 
 Man fpoken of above in the Duke’s Armory, 
 do witnefs, 
 
 1 8. From hence, having firft feen the Statue 
 of the Great Duke Ferdinand on Horlebaek in 
 Brafs, which ftands in the Piazza before the ^ ^ 
 Amnmciata , I went to the Church of the Fran - cmes. 
 cifcans , called Santo Croce . This Church is of a 
 large bulk and height, but fomewhat too dark. 
 
 The fide Altars are many, and cheeked with 
 round Pillars, and adorned with excellent Pi- 
 tres. The .Pulpit would become a Cbryfoflome^ 
 or a Chrvfologue : It’s of white Marble, in which 
 are graven the moft notable Adions of S. Fran- 
 cis in a baffo relievo. I never beheld it, but I 
 found Jfome new graces in it. Somewhat be- 
 hind it, near to a little door, is the Tomb of 
 Michael Angelo, thcTrlfmegift of Italy y being the 
 greateft Painter , the greateft Sculptor , the great* 
 eft Archited of bis time. Hence over his 
 Tomb, and under his Pidure, are placed three 
 Women in white Marble reprefenting Archi- 
 tecture, Painting and Sculpture, holding in 
 their hands the feveral Inftruments belonging 
 to thefe profeffions. Jf you ask me whither of 
 the two. Painting, or Sculpture, is to be pre- 
 ferred, though a blind Man being chofen judge 
 once of this queftion, when he was given to 
 underftand that in the fmooth Painting there 
 were Heads, Arms, Legs, Hands and Feet, as 
 well as in the bulky Statue which he had felt, 
 judged prefently for Painting 5 yet Michael An 
 gelo himfelf preferred Sculpture before Painting 
 as the Body is to be preferred before theSu- 
 perSces of a Body. But to return again to the 
 Tomb of this great Artift,! fouud fome words 
 
 K 2 upon 
 
91 OopagC to I T A L Y. Part I* 
 
 upon the Tombftone,but thofe fo dull and hard 
 to be read in that dark corner, that one in the 
 Company chofe rather to make him a new E- 
 pitaph, than read that which is written there : 
 and it was this • 
 
 Cur indigntmur mor tales mortt perire ? 
 
 Fcce, fiupor mmdi l hie Angelas ipfeperit . 
 
 And I think the modern Roman was of the fame 
 mind too, when he chofe alfo to makehimthis 
 Epitaph : 
 
 Roma mihi mortem trihuit , Fhrcntia vitam: 
 
 Nemo aliis <vtlkt nafei , & Ghire , lock. 
 
 In the midfl of this Church I found buried an 
 Englijh Bifhop, called Catrick^ who had been 
 Embaffador here from England, and likely in 
 the time of the Council of Florence . HisAvms 
 were three CatsArgent in a Sable field.ln fine*, 
 at the very end of this Church the left hand 
 Hands a neat Chapel, with a painted Cupola, 
 belonging to the Family of the Nicolim f in 
 which Chapel there are excellent Statues and 
 D’idcres. 
 
 ibbey. 1 9 - Not far from hence Hands the Ahhadia 
 an Abbey of Benedittin Monks. In the Church 
 isthe Tombof the Founder of this Abbey, a 
 German Nobleman, call’d Conte Hugo , who com- 
 manded Tofcany under the Emperor Otho thd' 
 III. The occalion of building this MonaHery 
 and many others by this Hugo , is too long to 
 tell,and perchance would not find belief every 
 where. It’s told publickiy every year upon 
 
 S,Tk>- 
 
Part I. 3 Qopage to ITALY. 133 
 
 S. Thomas his day in high Mafs time here, by 
 fome one or other of the chief Wits of the Aca- 
 demy of the Critfca : Bat I mull beg pardon of 
 the curious, if I defire them to go and hear it 
 there, as I did. 
 
 20. From thence I went to the Church of s 
 Santa Maria Novella belonging to the Domini - Novella* 
 cans . Here it is, that the Council of Florence , 
 fpokenof above, was held. There are many 
 
 good Pictures in this Church, as alfo divers 
 neat Tombs of holy Men and Women, and o~ * 
 thers : among which, that of Jofefh^ Patriarch 
 of Conflantinople. 
 
 21. Returning from hence along the River ^ Stetme 
 fide, we came to the High Pillar with the Sta- offujii a. 
 tue of Juftice in Porphyrj upon it. It was erect- 
 ed here,bec‘aufe it was in this very place where 
 Cofnms the Great heard the news of the redu- 
 ction of Siena . A witty Nobleman feeing this 
 Statue of Juftice upon fo high a Pillar, (aid, 
 
 that Juftice here was too high placed for poor 
 Men to arrive to it. Another obferv’d, that 
 Juftice there turns her back to the Courts of 
 Juftice, which ftand not far from thence. 
 
 22. Having feen the chief things in theTown, poggio hnr 
 I vifited fome places out of the Town ^ a n&psrialc* 
 chiefly, the Poggio ImperUle , a Villa, belonging 
 
 to the Great Datchefs, and about a good mile 
 diftant from the Town. In this houfe I faw 
 rare Pi&ures, and great ftore of them, the 
 Hoafe being furnifhed with nothing elfe. In 
 one Gallery are the true Pi&ures of divers late 
 Princes of the Houfe of jixftria y of the Houfe 
 of Mcdic.es, and of other Princes their Allies. 
 
 In ether Rooms we faw a world of rare Piftures 
 
 K a as 
 
a GJopage to I T A L Y. Pait I. 
 
 as the Venus of Titian, though I think it be 
 but a Copy : the admirable S. Hierom of A'~ 
 bcrto Dureo i a Magdalen of Raphael ’ s hand .* 
 a St. John Baptifl of C ar a v agio’s hand : an A- 
 dam and Eve cf Alberto Dureo : A Piece of 
 Pietro Perugwo’s, Virgin Mother with our Sa- 
 viour dead upon her knee : $ B J»hn Evangellift, 
 and three other Ferfons {landing, or knee- 
 ling by, with weeping Faces, and moft fad 
 looks *, it's one of the mod moving Pieces 
 that I ever beheld. Then the Pifture of 
 the Aflumption of our Lady in the Chapel, 
 of the hand of Andrea del Sarto } with a 
 World of other mod exquifite Pi&ures. The 
 little neat Oratory in this Houfc, called the O- 
 ratory of LhzGrcatDutcbefs^cnrloufiyintejd into 
 Flowers, by polifhed Stones of divers colours ^ 
 that is, a whole clofet of fhining Marble inlaid 
 into Flowers, is the neared little Room that, 
 ever I faw\ In fine, the little Grotto , and the 
 Statue of Adonis made by the hand of Michael 
 Angelo are much edeemed. 
 
 23. Another day we went to Prato lino, a 
 Villa of the Great Duke, feme fix miles didant 
 from Florence. Here we law in the Garden ex- 
 cellent Grots, Fountains, Water- works. Shad v- 
 Walks, Groves, and the like, all upon the fide 
 cf a Hill Here you have the Grotto of Cupid 
 with the wetting-dools, upon which, fitting 
 down, a great Spout of Weter, comes full in 
 your Face. The Fduntainof the Tritons over- 
 takes you lb too, and watheth you foundly. 
 Then being led about this Garden, where there 
 are dore of Fountains under the Laurel Trees, 
 we were carried back to the Grots that are un- 
 
Parti, aaopgeta ITALY. i 
 
 der the fteirs, and fa w there the feveral Gniochi 
 d y Aqua • as that of Pan (hiking up a melodious 
 tune upon his Mouth-Organ at the fight of his 
 Jkdftrif ^appea r ing over i n ft him: that where 
 
 the Angel carries a Trumpet, to his Mouth, and" 
 fonndethit-, and where the loam y Clown offers 
 a Difh of Water to a Serjem^ who drinks of it, 
 and lifteh up his head when he hath drunk : that 
 of the Mill which feems to break and grind O- 
 li ves : the PafcrMill : the Man with the Grinding- 
 Stone : the Saracens head gaping and fpewing 
 out Water: the Cfr&to of Galatea^ who comes 
 j out of a Door in a Sea Chariot with UvoNymvhs^ 
 and faileth a while upon the Water, and io re- 
 turns again in at the fame Door : the cnrbus 
 round Table capable of twelve or fifteen Men, 
 with a cmiousFonntain playing conftantly in the 
 I mid ft of it, and places between every Tren- 
 I cher or Perfon, for every Man to fet his bottle 
 of Wine in cold Water : the Samaritan Woman 
 corning out of her Home with her Buckets to 
 fetch Water at the Fountain, and having filled 
 her Buckets, returns back again the fame way : 
 in the mean time you fee Smiths thumping, 
 Birds chirping in Trees, Mills grinding, and 
 all this is done by water, which lets thefe little 
 inventions a-work, and makes them move as it 
 were of themfelves * in the mean time an Or- 
 gan plays to you, while you dine there in 
 frefco at that Table, if you have meat. Then 
 the heat Bathing Place, the Pillar of petrefied 
 Water, and la ft ly, the great Pond and Grotto, 
 before the Houfe, with the huge Gy ant (looping, 
 to catch at a Rock to throw it at Heaven. T his, 
 Gyant is fo big, that within the very Tighof 
 
1 36 a mm* to 1 t a l y. vm % 
 
 him is a great Grotto of Water, called the 
 Grotto of Thetis ,and the Shell-Fifties all fpouting 
 out Water. 
 
 Impggio* 24. I went al fo to Lampeggio^ a Villa force 
 five miles diftant from Florence, belonging to 
 Prince Matthias. It’s curioufly adorned with 
 Pi&ures, efpecially Battles of the hand of T 'em- 
 pefta. Here I law a Curious Cabinet of Coral 
 and enamell’d work The fine Guioco di Mecha 
 or Jnrktjh play, the curious Glades, and little 
 Armory. 
 
 TxSti- 2 v Returning to the Town again, we fav/ 
 the Great Duke’s Stables full of excellent well 
 managed Borfes. 
 
 7 he mid '' 26 . Near to the Stables jlands the Seraglio 
 
 where the Wild Bealls are kept, which are of- 
 ten made to fight one with another. Here I 
 faw Lyons, Leopards, Tygers, Bears, Wolves, 
 Wild Boars and Foxes,all which they can let out 
 feverally at the Doors of their feveral Dens, 
 into a fair Court to fight, and when they have 
 done, they can bring them back again into 
 their Dens by a fearful Machine of wood made 
 like a great Green Dragon , which a Man within 
 it rouls upon wheeles ; and holding out two 
 lighted Torches at the Eyes of it, frights the 
 ficrceft BeaHthereby into his Den. ThePrince 
 and the Court in the mean time Handing high 
 above may fee the Combats of thefe wild Bealls 
 with eafe and without danger. I have read, 
 chronology t * iat a L y 9n ^ erc once efcaping out of this place 
 of Petrus fcy chance, and running up and down the 
 Roniuai- Streets, met at laft(al] others flying into houfes) 
 dusto. 1. a little Child, who had neither fear nar wit 
 : r : enough to retire ; and feized upon him. The 
 
parti, a mm? to i t a l y. 
 
 Mother of the Chi’' hearing in what cafe he 
 was, ran out prefe-m^ and calling her felf 
 upon her knees v;tb Tears in her eyes, and 
 humble poflures of Supplication moved fo the 
 Lyon to pity, that he rendered her the Child 
 without hurting it, or her. 
 
 27. 1 faw alfo here divers Palaces of No- 
 blemen upon occafion of their Feiline. For it is 
 the Cuftom here in Winter to invite the Chief 
 Ladies of the Town. (Mar ried Women only) 
 to come to play at CardsTn Winter Evenings 
 for three or four hours fpace ^ and this one 
 night in' one Palace, another night in another 
 Palace. Thither the Ladies go, and find the, 
 Houfe open to all Comers and Goers both La- 
 dies and Gentlemen, that are of any Garb. In 
 eveyy Chamber the doors are fet open, and for 
 the moft part you (hall fee eight or ten Cham- 
 bers on a floor, going out of one another, with 
 a fquare Table holding eight Perfons, as many 
 Chairs, two Silver Candleflicks with Wax 
 lights in them, and /tore of lights round about 
 the Room. At the hour appointed. Company 
 being come, they fit down to play, a Cavalier 
 fitting between every Lady, and all theWomen 
 as fine in Clothes and Jewels, as if they were 
 going to a Ball. The Doors of all thefe Rooms 
 being open, the light great, the Women glit- 
 tering, and all glorious, you would take thefe 
 Palaces to be the Enchanted Palaces of the old 
 King of the Mountains. Any Gentlemen may 
 come into thefe Palaces and Hand behind the 
 Gamefters, and fee both how modeftly they 
 play, and how little they play for. In the 
 mean time there’s a Side-Chamber always open 
 
1 3 8 91 (Hopap to I T A L Y. Part I. 
 
 for Gentlemen to into, and refrefh themfelves 
 with Wine {landing in Snow, or with Limo- 
 nade, or feme fuch cooling Drinks, which are 
 alfo offered to the Ladies. In a gre^t Room 
 belew, at the entrance of the Palace, there is 
 a long Table for Garaefters that love to play 
 deep, that is, that love to play only for 
 Money. 
 
 _ The Florentines enjoying by the goodnefs and 
 
 7 J ylr Wifdorn of their excellent Prince, the fruits of 
 p eace ^ have many other Recreations, where 
 the People pafs their time chearfully,and think 
 not of Rebellion by muttering in comers. For 
 this reafon, both in Winter and Summer they 
 have their feveral Divertifements. In Winter 
 ;/ Giuoco their Cinoco di Catcio (a play fomething like our 
 ai c .iLio- p 00 t-ball, but that they play with their hands) 
 every night from the Epiphany till Lent, with 
 their Principi di Calcio. This being a thing par- 
 ticular to Florence , deferves to be deferibed. 
 The tw.o Factions of the CWdo,the Red a;<d the 
 Gicen, choofe each of them a Prince, fome 
 young Cavalier oi a good Purfe, Thefe Prin- 
 ces being chofen, choofe a world of Officers, 
 and lodge, for the time, in fome great Palace 
 where they keep their Courts^ receive EmbaiTa- 
 dors, from one another, and give them publick. 
 Audience in State, fend Poll to one another ; 
 complain of one another's Subjeft^, and take 
 Priihners from one another ^ hear their Coun- 
 cillors one afeer another, diffwading from, or 
 petf.yading to War *, give Orders for fettling 
 Hicir Affirirs at home, hear the Complaints of 
 theirSubjefts, jeer their Enemy Princes in Em* 
 hiffi;s, and at laft rcfolve to ftght, with pro- 
 claiming 
 
j 
 
 Parti. S aispte to I T A L Y. 
 
 claiming War. During thefe ferious Treaties, 
 which laft for many nights, the Secretaries of 
 State (two prime wits) read before their fe- 
 yerai Princes Bills for regulating and reforming 
 the abufes of their Subje&s and read openly 
 Petitions and' Secret Advices : in all which they 
 jeer a world of people in the Town, and (how 
 prodigious Wit. In fine, having fpun out thus 
 the time till near Camay ale or Shrovetide , the 
 two Princes refolve on a Battle at Calc in ^ to 
 be fought in the Piazza of Santa Croce , before 
 the Great Duke and Court. Upon the day ap- 
 pointed, the two Princes of the Calc jo come to. 
 the place in a mofb fcately Cavalcata , with all 
 the young Noblemen and Gentlemen of the 
 Town, upon the beft Horfies they can find, 
 with Scarffs red or green, about their Arms. 
 Having made their feveral Cavalcataes before 
 the Great DukesThrone or Scaffold, they light 
 from their Horfes and enter into the Lifts 
 with Trumpets founding before them, and ac- 
 companied with a Stately Train, and with 
 their Combatants in their feveral Liveries. 
 Having ranked themfelves a pretty diftance 
 one from the other, their Standard Bearers at 
 found of Trumpet, carry both at once, their 
 Standards to the foot of the Great Bakes Scaf- 
 fold . This done, the Ball, or Ballon is thrown 
 up in the midft between them, and to it they 
 go with great nimblenefs, flight and diftretion; 
 and fometimes they fall to it indeed, and cuff 
 innafomely ; but upon pain of Death, no Man 
 rrmft refent, afterwards out of* the Lifts, what 
 ever happened here j but all animofities arifing 
 ticre ; end here too. At laft, that fide which 
 
 throws 
 
a damage to I T A L Y. Part I: 
 
 throws or (hikes the BalUn over the Rails of 
 the other fide, wins the day, and runs to the 
 Standards, which they carry away till night, 
 at what time the Conquering Prince entertains 
 them at a Feftino di Ballo at Court, made to fome 
 Lady, and where all his Chief Officers and 
 Combatants dance alone with theLadies at the 
 Ball, none elfe being permitted to dance with 
 them that night. Belides thefe Pa .(limes, they 
 have once a week, dancing at the Court, 
 from Twelfth-day till Lent, at which Balls, 
 all the Ladies of the Town are invited, to the 
 number fometimes of two hundred, and thefe 
 all married Women, and all invited by a parti* 
 eularT icket. Then the fe/eral Opera’s or Mu- 
 fical Drama a are acted and fung with rareCoft 
 and Art. La Illy, the;r publick running at the 
 Ring, or at the Fauchirr, for a piece of P!a f e. 
 And in Summer, they have their feveral Dan- 
 cing days, and their frequent Corf dtPalio upon 
 certain known days, and for known Prices, and 
 ail before the good Prince, who countenanced! 
 all thefe Sports with his Prefence, thinking 
 wifely, that there’s Ids hurt in publick Mirth, 
 than in private Mutinies. 
 t. H aving faid thus m uch of Florence , I will now 
 
 fay fomething of the Court, the Government, 
 Strength, Gentry, Riches, Intereft, Language, 
 and Learned Men of this Town. 
 
 For the Court, ids dearly one of the beft-of 
 Italy, Great Riches make it look plump, and 
 give it an excellent en bon point. The Noble 
 Palace, the Prince, his Title oi Sercniffimo, his 
 1 rain and Retinue of Noble Officers and Gen- 
 tlemen, his (tore of Pages ^ Palfremcrs , Guards^ 
 
Parti. SSJopagetO ITALY. 141 
 
 of Smjfisrs with Halbards, his Troop of Horfe, 
 waiting upon him,make this Court appear fplen- 
 did. The Duke himfelf alfo, who makes this the Grot 
 Court, makes it a fine Court.His extraordinary j). t y % 
 Civility to Strangers, made us think our felves 
 at home there. He was above Fifty, and hath 
 an Auftrian Look and Lip, which his Mother 
 Magdalena of Auftria, Siller to the Emperor 
 Ferdinand the II. lent him. He admits wil- 
 lingly of the vifits of Strangers, if they be 
 Men of condition *, and he receives them in the 
 midll of his Audience-Chamber Handing ; and 
 will not dijfcourfe with them, till they be co- 
 vered too. It’s impoffible to depart from him 
 difgufted, becaufe he pays your Vifit with as 
 much Wit as Civility .* and having entertain’d 
 you in his Chamber with Wife difeourfe, he 
 will entertain you in your own Chamber too 
 with a Regalo of dainty Meats andWines, which 
 he will be fure to fend you. The Great I)ntehefs 7 p uu ^ 
 too is another main Pillar of this Court. She 
 is of the Houfe of the Duke of Vrbin , once a 
 Soveraign Prince in Italy , but now extind in her 
 Father, who was the laH Duke : and (he had 
 been Soveraign of that Dutchy, had (he been 
 of the Soveraign Sex : but what Nature refu- 
 fed her in Sex, it hath given her in Beauty, and 
 fo made her a Greater Soveraign, ever of Flo- 
 rence. Of her the Great Duke hath two Sons, 
 
 Cofrmt: the Prince of Tofcany married one of 
 the Daughters of the late Duke of Orleans . A 
 great Traveller, and one that vilited moft 
 of the Princes Courts of Chriftendom. The 
 Name of this Family is Medices } a Family 
 Which hath given to the Church four Popes 5 and 
 j to 
 
1 42 3 Q'Opagc ta I T A L Y. Part I. 
 
 7 fe Medi- to France two Queens. This Family is ancient* 
 c’mFmil- anc l came firft out of ,j4tht ■. It was always 
 it- confiderable during the Republick of Florence, 
 but far more, fince it hath got the ftart of all 
 the other Families fofar, as ro become their 
 Sovereign. The beginning of the greatnefs of 
 this Family came from Cofmus Medices , firna- 
 See Alfon- med Pater P atria. This Man being very rich 
 
 fo Lofchi an( j 0 f a libirai mind, fpent four hundred thou- 
 Zlpetid fand Crowns in publick and private buildings, 
 liiftor. * one hundred thoufand Crowns niore in loan 
 Moneys to the poor Citizens. Thefe Gene* 
 rous A&ions,. which fhouid have got him the 
 love of all Men, purchafed him the hatred of 
 fomeofthe great Ones, who accufing him of 
 affecting Soveraignty, railed a ilrong Fadiqn 
 again ft him. The heads of this Fad-ion were 
 
 Rinaldo Albizzi^ P ala Strozz.ii> RMfo Peraftti, 
 and Nicola Barbadori . Thefe Men corrupting 
 the Suffrages of the Senate, caufed Cofmus to 
 be clapt up, with an intention to takeaway his 
 Life. Cofmui in Pi ifon fearing poyfon, abftai- 
 ned from Meats four clay s together,and almoft 
 died of Hunger, for fear of being killed with 
 povfon .* At laft hew as refeued from this me- 
 lancholy humor by his honeftKeeper .5 w ho gave 
 him fuch affurances: that he fnould not be poy*, 
 fon’d that he took Meat again, and kept in .his 
 vital Breath, which was almoft come to his, lips. 
 Then his Keeper (not content to be half cour- 
 teous) having recover’d his Body, ftrove to re- 
 cover his Mind too, which was fore fpent with 
 Fears and Melancholy •, and for this purpofe 
 brought unto him the Buffbn of Bernardo Gnadagni 
 then Confanolkro, the Chief Magiftrate of the 
 
 Republick, 
 
Parti, aaopagcto ITALY. *4$ 
 
 Rejpublick, wfio with his Witty Jeffs, fo cheer- 
 ed' 'him up with mirth, tiiat he began not only 
 to think of living again, but alfo of getting out 
 from thence, that he might live long. To this 
 end he works with th e Baffin to carry a promife 
 inWriting from him to the C onfaloniero , of i ooo 
 Crowns of Gold, upon condition he would 
 free him. The Baffbn undertakes it, and mo- 
 ney takes with the Confanohero , who under 
 pretence of exaiminingtheCaufe to put him to 
 Death, finds him only worthy of Banifhment, 
 to which he condemns him ^ and the place of 
 his Banifhment was Fenice. This was it that he 
 defired, for being at Fewer, he wrought fo well 
 by Friends with the People, that loved him, 
 that he wasreftored again to his Country, and 
 got the Title of Pater Patrice by a publick de- 
 cree. By this Title his Family grew into that 
 efteem, that it overtoptthe reft, and in time 
 wrought it felf into Soveraignty. 
 
 For the Government of Florence , it is now Mo- The Go - 
 narchicaland Defpotical, the Great Dukes W ill vemment* 
 being abfolute, all great bufinefles palling thro’ 
 his knowledge and liking : fo that he wants no- 
 thing of a King, but the Name ; and that too 
 he almoft hath under the Name of Great 
 Duke. 
 
 As for the Strength of this State, it hath 2© l he 
 Epifcopal Cities ^ 500 little Walled Towns ± s * r w&b+ 
 llrong Forts on the Confines .* and can make 
 an Army of Forty thou find Foot, three thou- 
 fand Horfe, twelve Gallics, two Galleafles, 
 two Galleons, and twenty Ships of War. 
 
 For 
 
i 4 4 
 
 Ihe Gen- 
 try of Flo- 
 rence. 
 
 .farkr. 
 
 tnterefi* 
 
 8 aopage to i T aly. Part if 
 
 For the Gentry, they are both Ingenious and 
 Rich. The fubtil Air of this Country, and the 
 Academy of the Crnfeah ave fharpned themin- 
 tomuch Wit ; and their good Husbandry, and 
 under-hand Traffick hath put them notably 
 into Purfe. For they think it no difgrace to 
 have a Banc® at home, and meet daily at the 
 Exchange about Traffick and Trading \ while 
 their Wives take their Pleafure in riding in a 
 good Coach and attended by liandfom Liveries. 
 This makes them hold up their Nobility by the 
 Chin, and not only preferves their Families 
 from finking, but rather makes them fwiin ini 
 a full Sea of Honour ^ for they are by this means 
 enabled to buy Great Offices for their Children 
 in other Courts, whereby they often make them 
 mount to the Higheft Dignities ^ when they 
 are there, no Man reproaches nnto them the 
 way they took to come thither,whethef byWa- 
 ter, or by Land •, by Traffick, or by the Sword j 
 by the School-Book, or Count-Book. If the 
 French Gentry would follow this way, they 
 might have Shooes and Stockings for theirChil- 
 dren (which fome of them want in the Coun- 
 try) wherewith to keep their Noble Blood 
 warm in Winter. 
 
 For the Riches of this Fri nee, they are about 
 a Million and a half of Piafiri , or Crowns. Thefe 
 are his Annual Revenues ; feefides his Jewels. 
 Forfeitures, and his Datii : which laft are of 
 vafl: profit to him. 
 
 The Intereft of this Prince is much Juftria* r 
 and consequently Sjranifl) ♦ yet not fo far, as to 
 break with France, to which he opens his Ports 
 and PalFages for his own fake. He loves to 
 
 favt 
 
fart I. a Slopge to I T A L Y. *4*5 
 
 have no War in Italy , becaufe he hath fomc- 
 thing to lofe .* and though he loves to have the 
 Pope his Frieqdjet he cares not for having any 
 of his Subje&s Pope . A Pope of liis Family, Cle- 
 ment VII. haying made him what he is, he isaf- 
 fraid a Pope of fome other Florentine Family would 
 flrive to make him what he was. , 
 
 As for the Language of Florence , it 7 s pure^Tfo tan* 
 but in their Books, not in their mouths : Theyg^* 
 do fo chcak it in the Throat, that it s almoft 
 quite drown’d there : nor doth it recover it 
 felf again till it come to Rome, where Lingua 
 *1 of can a in bocca Romana is a molt Iweet Lan- 
 guage. T he Academy of the Crtifca, y hath much The Act 
 contributed to the enriching of this Language^ 6 / 
 with choice words. The rich Dictionary made'" 
 by this famous Company, and called from * 
 them the Cmfca , was forty years in compiling, 
 but it will be in vogue as long as Menfiiall fpeak 
 Italian. 
 
 Finally, for the Learned Men of this Town^ z ^“ 
 in latter times, they are thefe *, Marfdm Fici-^ 
 ms the Chriftian Platonick 3 Dante and Pe- 
 trarch in Poetry : Guicciardin in Hiftory : Poggio 
 in raillery ; VefpHcius in Geography : Accmfms 
 in Law .* Michael Angelo in Painting : * Joannes 
 Gafa in Pra&ical Morality : Naclantus in Divi- 
 nity : GaliUo in Aflronomy / Doni, Luigi, Ale - 
 manni , and others in Belle Letters , 
 
 Lie that defires to know the Hiftory of Flo-- 
 rente, let him read Giovanni Viliam,, Matthao Vil- runs * 
 lani, Scrp ion 2 Ammirato, .and the Life of Gran 
 CdfimOo , . 
 
 Having 
 
— T7T) i jlajl i. rartb 
 
 Having thus feen Fair Florence we, defired to 
 fee Ligdrne,Mnd make an exettrfive Journey by 
 riftoh. -Piftoia, Lucca and Fife. Fifloia, j$ an ancient 
 Town in a plain Country. Of this Town was 
 Pope Clement the IX. of the ancient Family of 
 Rofyigliofi : and that is all I can fay of it : for it 
 looks baldly of it felf,either out cf pure old age, 
 elfe by reafon of its Neighbourhood to Florence, 
 which hath fleeced it, or^ which I rather think, 
 by reafon of its Civil Factions heretofore which 
 had almoft quite ruin’d it. 
 
 Lucca is a pretty little Common- wealth, and 
 incrx* y et itfleeps quietly within the Bolbm of the 
 Great Dukes State. But that State may wifely 
 fear none, which no State fears ; and the Great 
 Duke may be unwilling to meafure his Sword, 
 with that of little Lucca, left the World iliou’d 
 cry ihkme upon him, and bid him meddle with 
 in Co- his Match. This little Republick looked in my 
 Qernmsnt, eye, like a perfect Map of old Rome in its be- 
 ginning. It's goyerned by a Confahnkro and 
 the Gentry. The great Ooimfel confifts of 1 60 
 Citizens who are changed every year. It’s un- 
 der the Emperors Protection and it hath a- 
 bort thirty thoufand Souls in it. Approaching 
 unto it, it looked like a pure. Low- Country 
 Town, with its Brick Walls, large Ramparts 
 fet round with Trees, and deep Moats round 
 an out the Wails., It hath eleven Baft ions well 
 'si ren th. guarded by the T ownlmen , and well furnifned 
 with Cannons of a large hze. The Town is 
 three miles in compafs • it hath thirty thoufand 
 Muskets dr half Muskets in i ts Arfenal, eight 
 thoufand Pikes, two thoufand iireft pieces of 
 % Musket proof, and ftore of great Artillery .The 
 
 whole 
 
Part I. 9 Ciopage t(i IT A L Y. 147 
 
 whole State, for a need jean arm eighteen thou- tissue* 
 Fand Men of fertice-, and it hath about five hun - nueSe 
 dred thoufand French Livres a year, it was in 
 this Town that Cafar, Pompey , and Cr affix met, 
 and agreed, among themfelves that all things in 
 Rome fhouid pafs as they pleafed. 
 
 The chief things to be feen here are the Ca- 
 thedral, called S. Martins , whofe Bifhop hath 
 the Enfigns of an Archbifhop, to wit, the me of 
 the Pallium ahd the Crofs, and whofe Canons iii 
 the Quire wear a Rochet and Camail, and Mi- 
 ters of Silk like Bifnops. 
 
 2 The Town-Hoafe, oy Senate- Houfe^ where 
 the Confalonicro lives during the time of his 
 Charge. 
 
 3. The Church of S Frediam belonging to the 
 Canon Regulars, where in a Chapel on the left 
 hand is the Tomb ofS. Richard King of England j 
 who died here ia his Pilgrimage to Rome. 
 
 4 The Mgufiins Church,where is feen a hold 
 where the Earth opened to fwallow up a blaf- 
 pheming Gamefler. 
 
 Of this Town was Pope Lucius III. The two 
 famous iMen of this Town, the one for Soldi- 
 ery, the other for Learning, were brave Ca- 
 ftrucio, and Sanfttts Pagnimx a great Efybrecian , 
 
 There are five To wns more belonging to 
 Lucca , to wit, C a-magior, Tiareggia, Montignofc^ 
 Catfilione, and Minnceiano . 
 
 From Lucca we went to Pifa , fome ten miles p^y 
 off. This was once the head Town of afiouri- ‘ 
 filing Rep Mick, and then the Nnmantia of Flo- 
 rence, and fcorning its yoke ^but now it crou- 
 cheth to it. It (lands in no verv good Air, and 
 therefore hath been vex'd with divers pldgitesj 
 L 2 The 
 
I 4 S 3 (HOJ?age.ta ITALY. Part L 
 
 The Grafs in the Streets of this VniMrfity read 
 me this Le&ure, and I believed it, Whereup- 
 on I ref jived to ilay herd one day only, in 
 which rime I faw, 
 
 _ n i . The Domo, whofe Canons officiate iaSc^r- 
 thc omo. ^ j^ e Q arc jinals. This is a neat Church for 
 ftrufture, and for its three Braz.cn Doors hifto- 
 ried with a fine Bajfg relievo . It’s built after La 
 camera 1 edefeha^ a fafhion of Building muqhu- 
 fed in Italy four or five hundred years ago, and 
 brought in by Germans or Tedefchi^ faith Safari. 
 77 :,’ bend- 2 .Near to the Do mo ftands(if leaning may be 
 ingjomi' ft an ding) the bn ding Tower , fo artificially 
 
 made, that it feems to be falling, and yet it 
 ftands firm : Ruituraque f nnper fiat Q wirum ), moles . 
 
 3, On the other fide of the Domo , is the (fam- 
 po Santo , a great fquare place cloiftered about 
 with a low Cloifter curioufly painted, It's cal- 
 led the Campo Santo , becaufe therein is confer- 
 red the Holy Earth brought from Hiem(dem 
 in 50 Gallies of this Republick, an. 1224. 
 Thefe Gallies were fent by the Republick of 
 Fifa^ to fuccour the Emperor ^yE^obarbe^ in the 
 Holy Land , but hearing of his death when they 
 came thither, they returned home again loaden 
 vriththe Earth of the HolyLa?id , ot which they 
 made this Campo Santo . 
 
 ScMS Ccl ' 4.Some good Colleges there ate, but unfrequen- 
 lc &*‘ ted then by reafon of a late Plague : 'none run- 
 ning fafter from the Plague than Scholars, efpe-* 
 cially when it comes near to the Schools. 
 
 7 he Libra,- 5 ' The publick Library is much enriched 
 
 ry. with the acceifion of Jldits Mammas his Library. 
 
 The rhy- 6- The Garden of Simples may be rare y but 
 fick Gar- we not underftanding this Herb Language, ha- 
 
 denl fted 
 
Parti, aaiopgeta ITALY. I 49 
 
 fled to the Houfe of the Knights of St* Stephen. 
 
 7 . This is the only Order of Knighthoodthat 1 Tlx 
 perceived in Florence \ and it’s very common. 
 
 They wear ‘a Red Crofs of Satin upon their ^Ste x iu-| 
 Qoak$, anc} profefs to fight againfl the Turks* ' 
 
 For this purpofe they have here a good Houfe' 
 and Maintenance. Their Church is beautified 
 without with a hand fbm 6 F act a-t a of WhiteMar - 
 hie , and -within with Turkish Enfigns and divers 
 ■Lanterns of Captaneffe Gallics. In this Houfe the 
 'Knights live in common, and are well maintain- 
 ed. Tn their Treafiry they fhew you a greatZ?//cT 
 ler ail of Pearl and Diamonds, won in a Battle 
 again H the Turks. Indeed Bucklers of Diamonds 
 do but fhevv our Enemies where we are, and 
 what they may hope for by killing us. They 
 have in their C'ancejldria , a Catoiogue of thoft 
 Knights who have done notable Service a- 
 gainfi: the Turks , which ferves for a powerful 
 exhortation to their Succeffors, to do, and die 
 bravely, hi fine, thefe Knights may marry if 
 they will, d'rid five in their own particular Hou- 
 fes, but many of them choofe celebacy as more 
 ’ convenient for brave Soldiers *, Wives and Chil- 
 dren being the true impediment a excrcitus. 
 
 Heretofore, dining the great difordersof the 
 Gsieffs and the G hike tins, Anno 1282, This 
 Town was governed by Vgolrn a proud Man, 
 who ruled here despotically. This Man invi- 
 ting one day all his Friends to a great Feafl ^ 
 began in the mid ft of it to brag, that nothing 
 was wanting to him : Tes* (laid one of his beffc 
 Friends, becaufe one who flittered him not) 
 there s one thing yet wanting to thee , Ugolin, to 
 wity the Singer of God. which is not far from thee.. 
 
a 23opag;e to I T A L Y. Part 1. 
 
 And it proved true, for prefently after, thetfW- 
 btlins rilfhing into the Palace of Vgolin (chief 
 of th eGftelfs) killed in his fight, one of his Sons 
 and his Nephew, and taking him with 'two o- 
 ther of his Sons and three Nephews, they fhut 
 him up in a ftrong Tower, and threw the Keys 
 into Arm : where the poor Man that bragged 
 even now in a Feaflgdied footi after or Hunger, 
 having mil feen his Children and Nephews 
 die of hunger in his Arms. A rare example 
 to teach proud Men, that there’s often but one 
 day between a powerful Man and a poor Man ^ 
 between a great Feaft and a great Fa ft. Hero 
 
 in Pifa were called two CouncilSjthe one 1409, 
 the other 1 51 1. 
 
 prom Pifa we went to LigornefPortus Libernm 
 in Latin) through a plcafant Foreft.This is the 
 only Haven the Great t) ah hatband the mouth 
 which letteth in that food which fajtteneth this 
 State. We Hayed not long here, the feafon pref- 
 fing us to be gone, and theTown being focr, (ten, 
 for it’s but little, though one of the neat-eft; 
 Haven Towns a Man can fee. Heretofore it 
 was not fufFerable by reafon of the b d Air 
 but fince Ferdinand the firft built it ane% and- 
 dryed up the neighbour ingf ^(gathering much 
 of the Water into a cut Channel, which goes 
 from hence to Pifa , and carries great Boats), 
 the Town is twice as whokfome, and thrice as 
 rich as it was. 
 
 The things 1 faw in thisTown were thefi*. 
 Th&fi&ole ’which (huts up the Haven. 2. T he Lan- 
 tern which with feven lights guides in Ships in 
 the night. 3 . The Haven it felf where Ships 
 ke and the. little Havenf within that, which 
 f ■ * ■ ' ferves 
 
I 
 
 Pan I. a as opaaeta ITALY. 
 
 ferves for a withdrawing Room to the great 
 Haven, where the Galleys themfeives retire. 4. 
 
 'i he Statue of Ferdinand the hr (Lin marble, 
 with the Statue in bronze of four flaves at his 
 feet. Thefe are the 4 Claves that would have 
 ftoln away a Galley and have rowed here 
 themfeives alone j but were taken in their 
 great enter prize. 5. The Greek Church. d.The 
 Cape. 7. The Tower in the Sea where they 
 keep Gunpowder. 8 . The Jews Synagogue. 
 9. Two Windmills which are rare things in /- 
 taiy , and therefore muft have a place here a- 
 mdng the rarities of this Town. 
 
 I found not any Academy of Wits here, nor 
 any Records of any learned Men of thisTown. 
 All the Latin here is only , Me am a*nd c Inum % 
 and their Wits aree^ercifed here how to make 
 good Bargains, not good Edep. Indeed what 
 . fnould the Muffs do here amongll the horrible 
 nolle of Chains, of Carts,of bawling Sea~men,of 
 cfamerous Porters, and where the Slaves of 
 Barb ary are able to fright all Learning cut of 
 the Town with their looks, as all Latin with 
 their Language. Yet I nuift confefs they ftudy 
 her s belle Lcttere : for, if the ti ns’ belle Latere 
 be Letters of Exchange, your Merchant here, 
 if you prefeat him a Letter of Exchange from 
 his Cor refpon dent, will read it oyer and over 
 again, and ftudy upon it, before he give you 
 the Contents of it in Money. 
 
 Having fini Hied, this exciirflye journey, we 
 returned again to Florence \ and having refled 
 our Horfesa day or two, we took a new rife 
 from thence to Rome? which feemed to beckon 
 L 4 us 
 
152. 3 Qopage to I T A L Y. Parti. 
 
 ms, and whither the main Torrent of our curio- 
 fit y hurried us. 
 
 Some three miles beyond Flfctrkfc we pafled 
 under a Alonafiery of C dr thrift arts ated upon a- 
 round hill , whole feveral celits and little Gar- 
 dens (walled about) branching out on all Tides 
 like feveral Editions, made this Mnnaftcry look 
 like a ipi ritual Fort, or devout Cittadel. 
 
 From hence palling through Sm Caftiano^ 
 un Caffi- arrived at night at Poggi a little 
 
 Poggi Bern- To w r», famous for perfumed Tabaco in Powder 
 */. ’ which the Italians and Spaniards take far more 
 
 frequently then we, as needing neither Candle 
 nor Tinderbox to light it witha} *, nor ufing a- 
 ny other Pipes than their own Nofes. 
 sictid. From. Poggi- Epnti we' came at Dinner to 
 Siena. Thisis the feconi Town of the Floren- 
 tine State. It was heretofore a powerful Re- 
 publics, commanding threefcore miles into the 
 Country, and now and then beating the Floren - 
 rheJms t * ncs \ but at la ft, after much Smuggling, this 
 of siena Wolf received the muzzle, and Siena is now the 
 zre i Wolf, humble fervant of Florence . This happened 
 Anno 1555. 
 
 This Town is feated in a very whole To me 
 Air and Soil, and therefore much frequented 
 by Strangers. It’s called Sena in Latin, from 
 the r enones , people of Gaul, w ho coming into 
 Italy with Brtnnks\ built this Town. The 
 Streets are all paved with bricks fet up edge- 
 way, which makes the Town always dry and 
 neat. It’s built high and low, with many high 
 Towers in it, built anciently in honour of it’s 
 well deferving Citizens, who had doge feine 
 j.pedal Service in the Re tub I id : and this makes 
 
 T - * - V • *V ’ V ‘ 
 
. * 5 ? 
 
 Parti. 3 2l0{?age to I T A L Y- 
 
 it feen thirty miles off. oa Romes fide. The 
 People here are very civil, and even fociable 
 too, which together with the good Air, the 
 good Exercifes for Gentlemen, the good Lan- 
 guage, and the great Priveleges, make many 
 Strangers draw Bridle here, and pafs the Sum- 
 mer at ' iena y the Orleans of Italy . 
 
 The prime things I faw here, were thefe. 
 
 t , The Domo , one of the neateft Cathedrals The Doma . 
 of Italy i though it.be built a la mameraTedefcha . 
 It’salfof black and white Marble within and 
 without! The Frontifpiece is carved curioufiy 
 and fet thick with Statues. Yet it wan’ts a 
 larger Piazza before it, to give it it’s full 
 Grace. The infide of this Church is very ta- 
 king, Under the roof immediately runs a row 
 of white marble heads of all the Popes till this 
 time. The Pavement h the bell in the World : 
 and indeed too good to be trod on ^ hence 
 they cover a great part of it, with Broads 
 handfomely laid together, yet eafie to be ta- 
 ken up, to fhew Strangers the Beauty of it $ 
 
 Its of Marble inlaid with Pictures, .and thofe ve- 
 ry great ones : feveral great Marbles of feveral 
 Colours making the Shadows and the Lights, 
 and compofing all together fuch a new kind of 
 Mofaick work, as all Men admire, but none 
 «dare finifh. This work was begun by Duccio 
 Sanefe , and afterwards carried on by Dominico 
 Beccafumi , but not fmilhed by him, faith* Vafa- 
 ri . They told me here, that it was Meccharm , 
 that made this Pavement, but I had rather be- 
 lieve Vafari. That part which they uncovered 
 for us, reprefented the Hiitory of Abraham go- 
 ing to Sacrifice his Son Ifaac \ and the hiftery of 
 
9 S 
 
 1 54 
 
 % ilm$Z ta I J A L Y. Part I* 
 
 the Maccabees', and the like. I confefsl fcar.ce 
 faw. any thing in Italy which pleafed me bet- 
 ? libra, - ter than this Pavement. On the left hand 
 (within the Church) Sands the Library, painted 
 with a rare Frefco, which is yet ravifhing and 
 lively after two hundred years : Indeed, the 
 brave adions of Mine as Sylvias, (afterwards 
 Pope Pins il.) which thefe Piftures reprefent, 
 deferve to be painted by the Sun-beams. The 
 Piftures are of the hand of ietro Perugpw, 
 
 . Raphael' $ jM after ' but when all's done, give me . 
 Books in a Library , not Pictures , In the Church 
 you fee the Statues of Alexander the 111, of 
 Pius II, of Patti as V, and of Alexander the VII 5 
 r , ad Popes, and Natives of Siena, 
 
 ~}yr X 2 . I faw here the fever al places which S. 
 iia. Katherine of Siena had made famous by her 
 Devotions •* as, her Chamber, where (he recei- 
 ved the holy Stigmata, now turned into a 
 Chapel .* the Chamber where (he lived, with 
 other memorials of her Devotions, in the Do- 
 minicans Churchy where they alfo (hew her 
 Head and Finger . her Body being" transferred 
 to Rome, and lying in a little Chapel within 
 the SacriHy of the Dominicans, at the Minerva* 
 r j , r P: _ ft. The other things ordinarily fhown here 
 ° are the great Hofpital : the Houfe of Pius IL of 
 the Family of th zPiccofamom: the great Piazza: 
 the Pillar with the Wolf of Brafs upon it : the 
 Marble Pillar as you come into the Town 
 from Florence, with the Arms of the Empire 
 and of Portugal upon it ^ hecaufe here it was 
 •that the Emperor met E'eanora of Portugal y zn& 
 married her in prefence of Mineas Sylvius then 
 Archhifhop here, • and afterwards Pope Pius 
 thell. 4 ,T 
 
Parti. a (Hoyage to ITALY. 
 
 *55 
 
 4. I Taw here the Academy of Wits, called gli In - Tbs Ac a ds- 
 tronati : why they ffoa'd mkc that ambitions name ra I °f WTtu 
 I know not, tmlefs it be . i reference to the faying of 
 
 a Philofopher, who [aid, that then finally Kingdoms 
 ihonld be happy, when either Philosophers fhould be 
 chofen Kings,* or King^ played the Philosophers, 
 
 Indeed Arijfotle holds, that they that are #rong ©f 
 Body, are made to ferve and tug at the Oar of Com- 
 mands .* and they that are Strong in wit, are born by 
 nature to fit at the Helm, and command others. 
 
 5 , This Town hath furnilhed the Latin Church 
 with a General Couticel of an hundred and thirty 
 Bilhops, call’d by Nicolas HI. with three great Saints. 
 
 S, Bernard: n 7 reformer of' the Minorites \ St. Ka- 
 therine the holy Virgin, and Be at ns Colnmbanusfiu- 
 #i tutor of the Order of the Jefnati , faid to be a 
 Man-of great Learning and Sanctity : with four Popes 
 to wit, Alexandtf 111. of the Houle of Bandinelli ; 
 
 Puts II. of theHoufe of Viccolomini ; Panins V. of 
 the Houle of Bnrgefi ; and Alexander VII. of the 
 Houfe of Chifi: And in fine, it hath furnifhed the 
 World with two Champions in Learning Ambrofins 
 Politi (or Katharines) who wrote again# Luther 
 and Erafmm *, and Adriano Politi y who wrote a- 
 gain# Ignorance by his Learned Didionary. 
 
 He that w r ould know the particular Hiflory of The Ilifio- 
 'Slena 7 let him read Orlando Malevolto . • fy. 
 
 From Siena viz want to Bon Convento y Tornicri 7 
 San Qmrico , inconfiderable places upon the rode, godiceyue*. 
 And fo to Rodicofino 7 a ftrong Caflle upon a high Hill, 
 built by De fid cries King, of the Longohards . This 
 is the la# place of the Florentine State, but not the 
 La# in ftrength. 
 
 Dining here at the Great Dukes Inn at the bottom 
 of the Hill, we went to lodge at Atfnapefidente 7 which Aquapar- 
 is fome 12 miles off, and the fir# Town of the Popes dm*. 
 State. 
 
 This Tow r n #ands upon a Hill, from which the 
 Waters trickling down foftly are laid to.hang there, 
 and give it the name of Apiapendente. Of late this 
 * Town 
 
3 mvm to I T A L Y; Part I. 
 
 Town is made*a Bifhops Seat by the demonlifhment 
 of Caftroy and ' the removal of the Bi/hops Seat 
 from thence hither, which hath happened upon this 
 occafiom (V Afro was a Town belonging to th& 
 Duke of Parma-, thither Pope Innocent X. fent a 
 good Bilhop to govern that Flock 3 but the Bilhop, 
 upoir his arrival being killed there, the Pope fent 
 Conte V'idman (General' then of the Church) with 
 order to demoiilh Cafiro : and he himfelf transfer- 
 red the Bil hops Seat from thence to Aq impendent 
 all which was, according to the Canon Law, which 
 ordains, that the City which kilis its Bilhop fhould 
 be deprived of the Bilhops Seat ever after. 
 
 From Aquapendente we came to a little Town cal- 
 led San Lore :■? £0, and not long after to Bolfena, an- 
 ciently called Vrbs Volfinenfium. Here it was that 
 we were told of a famous Miracle, that they give 
 out to have been done in this place, in confirmati- 
 on of the real prefehce of £ hr ills Body and Blood 
 in the Sacrament, which happened Ahfho 1263, and 
 . which gave occafion to Pop z 'Urban IV. - to com- 
 mand that the Fead of CorpusChrlfti iLou id be ]&pt 
 Holy-day ever after.Thj Miracle isrdated by I- a - 
 dec 'Alberti the Camden of Itdu and by Omp/rC 
 u: fan Anns , in the Life of VrbanlV. 
 
 ■ We paffed alfo that morning by the fide of the 
 Lake of Bo/fena 3 in the middle of which is a little 
 Bland, in which Amalafuinta. Queen of th z Ofiro- 
 fpths l a Woman of fmgular parts, was miferably 
 furthered 'by her neared; kindred. Here’s alfo a 
 little Convent of Capuchins. 
 
 • Having pa fled along this Lake a great while, we 
 entered at lad into a Wood called anciently June us 
 k r oi : '.nenfui);i, and now. Bo/co Helerno . it was for- 
 merly a dangerous Paffage for Bandito s : but now 
 its free from danger, fmee Sixtus Qsunuis purg'd the 
 Ec cl ei radical State of that Vermin, by making a Law, 
 that wholbever Ihould bring in the head of aRaiw 
 ditdj Ihould have pardon, impunity and re^ompenlh 
 too, of fame hundreds of Crowns, whereupon the 
 Bandits (pon de llroyed one another. . From 
 
Part i* a aiopage to i i al y. 
 
 i n 
 
 From this Wood we foon tame to ftfontefiafcone Momefia* 
 ilanding upon a Hill. Its' a Bilhops Seat, and fane. 
 famous for excellent Muftcatelo Wine ; and this 
 Wine is *fiunous for having killed a Dutchman here 
 who drunk too much of it. The Story is true, and 
 thus. < A' Dutchman of Condition travelling thro" 
 
 Ita ly , fc nt his Man before him always, with a charge 
 to look oat 'the Inns where the belt Wine was, 
 and there write upon the Wall of the Inn the word 
 £ST, that is to fa} 7 , Here it is. The Servant co- 
 ming hither a little before his Mailer, and finding 
 the Wine excellently good, wrote upon the Walt 
 EST-, EST ^ EST, "Signifying thereby the fuper- 
 lative goodnefs of this Wine. The Mailer arrives, 
 looks for his Mans hand-writing } and finding, three 
 EST 5, is over- joyed. In he goes, and relolyes to 
 lie there } and he did fo indeed : for here he lies 
 Hill, buried firit in Wine, and then in his G^ave } 
 for drinking too much of this good Wine^ he 
 dyed here, and was buried by his Servant, in a 
 Church here below the Hill, with this Epitaph up- 
 on his Tomb, made by the fame. Servant, Propter 
 EST , EST y hems mens m or tints eft. It was here 
 alfo, that the Gallantry of the brave Roman Ge- 
 neral Camillas appeared very much. For, while he 
 was befieging this Town, called then Phdlfctsm or 
 Phaleris, a Treacherous School-Mailer , having 
 brought unto him the chief young Youths of the 
 Town, whom he had deceitfully drawn unto the 
 ' Roman Camp, under pretence or taking the Air a- 
 broad, by which means Camillas rnight have fright- 
 ed their Parents to an unworthy Rendition .■ the 
 brave Roman who fcorned tq overcome by any e- 1 
 ther way than that of Gallantry, eaufed the School- 
 mailer to be dripped, and his hands to be tyed be- 
 hind his back and to be led into the. #own again, 
 with the little youths whipping him as, he went, 
 till he had brought them home again. This noble - 
 nefs of Camillas took the Town prelently, becaufe 
 
 it took with the Townfme'n 
 
 who admiring the 
 
 Roman 
 
158 2 (Homage taXTALY* Part h 
 
 Roman Gcnerofity, fubrrimitted willingly to Ca- 
 millas, who Sad chofen rather to take Towns by 
 his own Valour than by other Mens^ iniquity : In- 
 deed, (as Valerius Maximus faith) it did not be- 
 come Rome , built by the Son qr Mars, to take 
 Towns otherwife than Martially: . 
 
 Viterbo . From Monte fiafcone we went down the Hill by an 
 
 eafie defcent unto Viterbo* This is an Epi (copal 
 Seat, ftanding in a wholefome Air, and therefore 
 called Viterbium , as it were, Vita Vrbijtm. Here 
 are excellent Fountains of Water, and ftore of 
 them : but it’s pity none of them run with good 
 Wine, to make amends for the bad, which aVe ^ 
 moftof them Vini cotti. The two Fadions here 
 of the Gatti and the Maganefi , (thefe ftanding for 
 the VrfiftL thole for the Colon efi) ruined hereto- 
 fore Viterbo over and over again. In the Demo 
 there are the Tombs of four Popes, as alfo in the 
 Francifcans Church fome Tombs of Popes and 
 of St. Rofa : you fee the body of that Saint yet entire, 
 though buried above 10® years ago. She lies along 
 in her Tomb, andisfeen by drawing of a Curtain 
 from before her. 
 
 the 4cade~ Here’s an Academy of Wits called Gli Ofiinatij 
 
 ivy of Wits. t 0 f] ]e w perchance, that a Man cannot be learn- 
 ed without obftinate labour and pains. Hence 
 the Poet makes the Learned Man to be one who 
 mult am fudavit & alfn : and Perfius tells us, that 
 his delight was to grow pale with obftinate night 
 Study : Velle fmim caique efi. See. 
 
 At me noFfurnis juv at imp able j cere ebartis. 
 
 About a mile from Viterbo ftands a neat Church 
 and Convent, called Madonna del Querco , and as 
 Tar again beyond that, a fine Houfe^with a Gar- 
 den of Water-works and Fountains, worth fee- 
 ing- • 
 
 Ciprarola. From* Viterbo (being upon our own Horfes ) we 
 went to fee Caprarela , a ftately Houfe belonging tc 
 the Duke of Forma . The Houfe is held to be one 
 of the fineft in Italy for Architedure. It ftands 
 
Part J. a mvm to 1 1 AL L 159 
 
 a little out^f r the Travellers rode, but not of his 
 way : for it’s much in a Mans way to fee fuch a 
 lovely Houfe as this. It Hands upon thefide of a 
 Hill,and from one of the Balconies it fiiews yoi 
 fome two and thirty miles off. It's built in a Pen - 
 iagone (if I remember well) without, and round 
 within. The Chambers for all that are fquare, 
 and well proportioned; The chief of thefe Cham- 
 bers are painted by the hand of Pietro Orbifia , fiou- 
 rilhing thus upon the noble ad ions of Panins ill. 
 
 Among the other Chambers, the whifpering Cham- 
 ber is curious, for four Men here handing, each 
 one in one of the four corners of this great Cham- 
 ber, hear difUndly what any of them whifpers in 
 'alow tone, in his Corner, tneir Faces being turn- 
 ed to the Wall *, and. yet thofe that Hand in the 
 midfl of the Chamber cannot hear it; The other 
 Chamber is no iels curious, where, Handing in 
 the mjdHof it, and Hamping hard wi$hyour foot 
 thofe that are without at the door think that they 
 hear the cracks or reports of PiHols. The other 
 Rooms here alfo, as the Kitchin, all of one Stone, 
 the low Cavealfawith the Pillar in it, cut like- 
 wife out of a rock and bearing up the whole Pave- 
 ment of the round Court which lets light into this 
 Cave by divers round grates of Iron, are* worth the 
 beholding ; Then the'Garden upon the Hill Tide with 
 the great variety of Water-wqrks, Grots and wet- 
 . ting fports, are all curious things. Having wal- 
 ked this Garden about, you'll delire, after lo much 
 Water, a little Wine, which- will not be wanting 
 to you, from the rare Cellarlying under, the great 
 Terraffe before the Houfe ^ and perchance you’ll 
 think the W ine-works here as fine as the Water- 
 works* 
 
 From C aprarola we fell into our way 3gain at Mon- MmerojX 
 terofa , from whence palling by Bacano, and the Ho- 
 fieri a del Stort.o , we came at night Xo Rome. 
 
 All the way from Monterofii to Rome almoH, be- 
 longed anciently to xhzFeientes (io called, faith Re- 
 
 roffu 
 
i6o 
 
 V *£T 'Oi% 
 id a, 
 
 Valzr. 
 
 /« I 
 
 c.s- 
 
 3 (Homage to I T A L T. Part I. 
 
 roftMy from the carrying about with then} in Carts, 
 all their goods.) Near to Bacan is a Lake out or 
 which runs the River Farca y anciently called Crc - 
 merdy near unto which the Feientes killed in one 
 Battle, three hundred Fabli , that is, the whole fa- 
 mjly of the Fabiiy (who had vowed themfelves to 
 death for die Common- Wealth fervice) except 
 one little boy not able to bear arms, from whom 
 Fabius Maxima the terror of Hannibuly and Romes 
 buckler defeended. 
 
 Upon this rode alfo flood anciently the Town 
 Veiiy a Town which held out ten Summers againfl 
 the Romans^ and Hood in need of no Ids Man than 
 Camillas to take it. This Town was once fo great 
 that Rome being deft royedalmoft by the GW/, the 
 Senators held a Confutation in the Comiti#m y whe- 
 ther they fliould retire to Feiiy and leave Rome quite, 
 or rebuild again Romes walls y but during this Con- 
 futation , the Troops returning out of Garrifon, 
 arrived by chance into the Comit'ium 7 where the 
 Centurion entring, and not thinking the Senators 
 had been there, cryed out to the Standard- bearer, 
 Slgnifer flat ne figmim y hie optime manebimas *, which 
 words the Senators hearing, cryed out to one ano- 
 ther, A ".ctpimiis omen y and prefently laid aftde all 
 further thought df retiring to Feii. 
 
 Some twelve miles before we came to Rorney we 
 faw the Cupola of St. Peters Church, and were as glad 
 to fee it afar off, as the weary Trojans in lAZneas his £ 
 Company, were glad to fee Italy, after fomuch wan- 
 dering. Some few hours after, having paffed by an 
 old Tomb, which fomecall Nero's Tomb, and over 
 the Ponte Molo (of which more in my 2. Part) W’e 
 eutred into Rome by tile Fid Flaminedy and Porta 
 del Popnlo. 
 
 The End of the firjl Part s 
 
 i 
 
A N 
 
 ITALIAN-VOYAGE, 
 
 O R, 
 
 A Compleat Journey 
 
 THROUGH 
 
 ITALY. 
 
 The Second PART. 
 
 With a Character of the People, and 
 theDefcription of the Chief Towris,Church- 
 es, Monaiteries, Tombs, Libraries, Palla- 
 ces, Villas, Gardens, Pi&ures, Statues, An- 
 tiquities : 
 
 AS ALSO, 
 
 Of the Intereft, Government, Riches, Force, 
 &c. of all the Princes. 
 
 By RICHARD LASSELS , Gent. 
 
 The Second Edition ; with Large Additions, 
 by a Modern Hand. 
 
 LONDON, 
 
 Printed for f(. Wellington, at the Lute in St. Ptul's- 
 Church-Yard, MDCXCVIII. 
 
Part II. 
 
 A 
 
 I 
 
 JOURNEY 
 
 Through 
 
 ITALY- 
 
 PART II. 
 
 EING arrived at Rome , we Lodged 
 I in an Inn for three or four days, till 
 I j we had found out, and furnifhed a 
 JLbmJr Jioufe to our fatisfa&ion. That done, 
 I began prefently my Incite ft , and 
 made Hue and Cry after every little thing which 
 time feemed to have robbed us of. 
 
 But as we approach not to great Perfons in 
 Italy , without informing our felves firft of their 
 Titles , that we may know how to Stile them : 
 So before I bring my Reader acquainted with 
 Rome , I think it not amifs to tell him how this 
 great City is commonly called. 
 
 And although Rome were anciently ltiled The 
 Head and Miftrefs of the World y an Earthly God - 
 defs \ the Eternal City \ the Compendium of the 
 World \ the common Mother and Nurfe of all Vir- 
 A 2 ' tues v 
 
 
4 
 
 How Fome 
 if Riled* 
 
 gomtt U 
 Santa, 
 
 Serm,x.de 
 Haul. A- 
 poft. Petri 
 & E*u!. 
 
 $ S? tfyotlgfy Italy. Part IL 
 
 tues ; (while iiu.. . yet Heathen ,) Yet fince 
 her Ladyflrip v, as Baptized and became Chrifttan 
 ( though Ihe have had great Elogies made of her 
 by the Holy Fathers) 1 find no Title fo honour- 
 able to her, as that of Roma la Santa , Rome the 
 Holy which is given her by the Common Pro- 
 verb, and common Proverbs are nothing elfe 
 but the obfei various of common Senfe : For 
 whereas the other Cities of Italy are Proverbially 
 called, either Fair , Gentile , Rich, Proud, Fat 
 ot Great , as Florence Naples, Venice j Genua , 
 Bologna , ..Milan , Rome only is friled the\Holy : 
 and this ckfervedly, for many Reafons. 
 
 Firfl, for being the Epifcopal Seat of St. Peter 
 and his SucccJJors , • to the number of 240 and 
 odd Popes. 
 
 2. For having been watered at the roots, fay 
 the Preaching and blood of tfie two Glorious 
 Apofiles St. Peter and St Paul , which made St. 
 Leo, fpeaking to Rome of thefe two great *dpo- 
 files 0 make her this Hpofiropkc. F/i Jimt qui te 
 ad banc glorjam provexenmt , ut gens fan$a v po- 
 pulus elcthis , civitas Sacer dotalis Regia, per fa- 
 cram Beau Pi tri fedem caput orbis effetta, latius 
 prafideres religione divina quam domination ter- 
 vena. 
 
 3 For having been looked upon in all Ages, 
 as the Center of Catholic Communion : and the 
 place where the Alatrix and Radix Ecclefia , the 
 Mother Church and the Radical Church (as Sr. 
 Cyprian calls her) did fiourilh always. 
 
 4 . For having been walhed and purged in the 
 blood of fo many thoufand AFartyrs in the Pri- 
 mitive times, which even baptized Rome a new, 
 and made it be called by Holy Fathers Nova 
 Sion, a New Siom 5. For • 
 
5 
 
 Part II. g tgo^age tl^OUSl) Italy. 
 
 5 . For having fo many Saints bodies lying in 
 its Churches ; and fo many Churches within its 
 Precin&s, which are above three hundred in all. 
 
 6. For having been the happy occafion of 
 Converting moil of the Nations of Europe, and 
 many others out of Europe, unto the Faith of 
 Chrift, by Preachers fent from thence. 
 
 7 . For having been the Depofitary (as St. Ire - 
 neeus calls her) of the Holy Apoftolical Traditions 
 and Dottrine , which have always been confer- 
 ved in her Church . 
 
 8 . For having always conferred the Symhole of the 
 Creed inviolably ( faith St. Hierome.) 
 
 Belides thefe forefaid Re^fons, Rome may de- 
 fervedly be called Holy , for the many and fingu- Great chi- 
 lax a&s of Charity which are done there daily, rides in 
 more than in any other place. Charity is the Rome. 
 Queen of Vertues , and if ever I faw this Queen in 
 her Throne, it was in Rome . For there i faw no 
 evil, either of body or w*W,but it had its reme- 
 dy, if curable j at lead its comforts if incurable. 
 
 Forth tfirft, to wit, Evtls of Body, it hath its ^edies 
 Hofpitals , and thofe many, and many of tho k for evils of 
 are Hofpitals in Folio . Belides no Pilgrim comes the body. 
 to Rome , but he finds Rome, as Adam did Pa - 
 radife, with the Table covered, and Bed made 
 ready for him. Poor young Girls find Portions 
 either for Husbands or Nunneries, according to 
 their choice *, Infants whom cruel and unlawful 
 Mothers, like Wolves, expofe to death, Rome Meretrices 
 receives to life, and thinks it but a fuitable An - vo ^ m 
 
 tipelargefis to nourifh Wolves Children, feeing a c 
 
 She-Wolf nourifhed her Founder being expofed Auguftin. 
 by Men. Fools too and Madmen , fo much the de Civit. 
 more miferable, as not being fo much as fenfible D gi - 1 - lS * 
 
 1 
 
I 
 
 6 a @09^ tftong# Italy, Part II. I 
 
 Quint. of their Condition (tor fape calamitatis folatiutn 
 curt . eft noft'e fortern fuam) have here thofe that take 
 
 care of them. Poor Men find Flofpitals when 
 they are Tick ; and Gentlemen , whom Nature 
 hath not exempted from common Miferies , 
 Rome exempts from common Flofpitals *, and not 
 being able to give them better health fhe gives 
 them at lead better accommodation in their 
 ficknefs. Here you fhall find an Apothecaries- 
 /hop , founded by Cardinal Francis Barber in, with 
 a yearly revenue of Twelve Thpufand Crowns, 
 and this for ever } to furnilh the Poor with Phy- 
 fick gratis . 
 
 Here you fhall find the Hofpital of the Holy 
 Trinity , which in the Jubile year of Clement the 
 VIII, is found to have treated at Table, in one 
 day, Fifteen Thoufand Pilgrims. And in the 
 whole year Five Hundred Thoufand. The laft ' 
 Jubile year 1650. I my fclf was prefent one day, 
 when the laid Hofpital treated Nine Thoufand 
 Pilgrims that day.* The Pope himfelf ( Innocent 
 the XI) and many of the Cardinals having been 
 there to wafh the feet of the Pilgrims, and to 
 Almoft e- ferve them at Table. Add to this, that every 
 very Nati - Nation hath here its feveral Hofpital and Refuge , 
 on bub An with Church and Churchmen to ferve it. As the 
 Rome 7 m ^ n gtifh CoUedge , once an Hofpital for the Fn- 
 glifh : That of the Anima , for the Germans : 
 That of St. l A ewvs % for the French : That of St. 
 Iacomo y for the Spaniards \ That of St. Antony 
 of Padua, for the Portuguefe : That of St. Julian 
 for the Flemmings : That of St. Amhrofe for the 
 Lombards: That of St. Juo for the , Britans ; 
 That of St. Hierorn for the Illyrians : That of St. 
 Mary Egyptiaca for the Armenians ; That of St. 
 
 Stephano 
 
Part IE a Qfttyftge tftoagp Italy. $ 
 
 Stephana for the Hungarians: That of St. Stef- 
 niflaus for the Polomans . Befides a world of o- 
 thers. Nay altnoft every Corporation or Body of 
 Artifam have their Hofpital among themfelves, 
 which they maintain. In the Church of the 
 Twelve Apoftles they chufe yearly Twelve No- 
 blemen and one Prelate, who is called their 
 Prior : Thefe go into every corner of Rome to 
 feek out poor Men who are afham’d to beg* 
 and yet are in great want. Thefe bafhful poor 
 Men put their names into a- Coffer well lock’d 
 up, and Handing in a publick place, by which 
 means thefe Charitable Noblemen find them out, 
 and relieve them. 
 
 What (hall I fay of the publick Charity of 
 the Pope himfelf, well known to all* befides a 
 world of private Charities which he gives by his 
 Secreto Limofimero to thofe that are afhamM to 
 beg publickly. 
 
 The like do many Cardinals by their own 
 hands } and in that high meafure, that Cardinal 
 Montalto (to name no more) is found by his 
 Books of Accounts , to have given away above a 
 Hundred and Seven Thoufand Crowns to the 
 Poor. Of which pious Cardinal I cannot omit 
 to write this following Story* as I have learned 
 it from very good relation. 
 
 t: A poor Widow of Rome * Mother of one aintrgm- 
 46 only Daughter both young and handfome* ouspisce oj 
 cc got her Living honeftly by her own* and her charu ^ . 
 IC Daughters Labour * and rub’d out poorly* but 
 “ yet honeftly : Now it happened that this Wi« 
 u dow falling Sick, and her Daughter having 
 4t enough to do to tend her, their work went on 
 
 fo faintly, and their gains came in fo flowly* 
 
 A a 4 44 that 
 
8 $ wage t&OUgft Italy. Part HC 
 
 44 that at her recovery, fhe found her Purfc as 
 cC much fpent as her Per fin . Whereupon be- 
 44 ing called on for the quarters Rent of her 
 44 Chamber, and not knowing what to do, fhe 
 44 was advifed by her Confefiarius to go to Car* 
 44 dinal Mont alto (who gave publick Audi- 
 44 ence thrice a Week to all the Poor in 
 44 Rome , and to beg as much of him, as would 
 <c pay her little debt. PrefTed therefore by her 
 44 great neceflity, and emboldened by the fame 
 44 of the Charity of this good Cardinal , (he en- 
 44 tred the Palace, and found him in his great 
 44 Hall, giving Ear and Alms to all thofe that 
 11 could give him a good account of their wants. 
 44 In her turn Ihe and her young Daughter ap- 
 44 proached unto him, fitting at his Tables End ; 
 44 and exprefling modeftly her wants caufed by 
 44 her three Months Sicknefs, Ihe humbly be- 
 44 fought his Eminence to give her five Crowns 
 44 for to pay the Rent of her Chamber, and pa- 
 44 cifie her Landlord, who otherwife threatned 
 44 to put her out of Doors. The Cardinal fee- 
 44 ing as much modefty in her looks as Sicknefs 
 44 in her Countenance j and liking well, that fhe 
 44 did not go about to fright him into Charity, 
 44 by urging the danger of being forc’d one day 
 4C to expofe her Daughter to lewd Courfes (a 
 4C common Rhetorical figure of Beggars in all 
 44 Countries,) wrote down in a little Paper, Fifty 
 44 Crowns to be given to her ^ and folding up 
 44 the Paper, he bid her carry it to his Servant 
 44 below at the entrance of the Palace, who 
 44 kept the Cardinals Bills, and payed the 
 44 contents of them. She did fo with humble 
 * Prayers of thankfulnefsj and the Servant up- 
 
 44 on 
 
Part II. a Storage Italy. 9 
 
 44 on the Sight of the Paper, pi ck ally threw her 
 fifty Crowns, and bid her make an acquittance 
 Ct for it*. The poor Woman feeing fifty Crowns 
 cc counted out for her, who had asked but five *, 
 
 <f and fearing left the Servant upon fight of 
 tc her handfome daughter, might have ‘done 
 * c this by way of Bribery, told him fmart- 
 44 ly, that tho’ fhe were Poor, yet fhe was 
 tc honeft, and that file fcornM to go by one 
 44 Corruption to another. The honeft Servant 
 u civilly replied, that he underftood not her 
 * c words : nor I your deeds, fold fhe, I asked 
 44 the Cardinal five Crowns , he granted me my 
 <c requeft, and why then do you offer me fifty 
 *’ Crowns ? The honeft Servant to fhew his In- 
 44 nocency, lhevvs his Mafters hand writing, im- 
 44 porting fifty Crowns. Then your Mafters 
 44 hand, faid (he, for hafte outfhot his Intenti- 
 44 ons. I asked him for five Crowns , and more 
 * c in Confidence I cannot take. The Servant, 
 
 44 though he knew his Mafters Generality, yet to 
 44 take all fcruple from the poor Wo man, locked 
 up his Money and Papers, and defired the 
 44 poor Woman to go up with him to the Car - 
 44 dinal again to clear this doubt. The Cards- 
 44 nal hearing from this Servant the whole paf- 
 44 Page, and that the poor Woman was afraid 
 44 his hand had been miftaken in writing fifty 
 44 Crowns infteadof five *, 5 tis true, faid he, my 
 ct hand was miftaken indeed j and calling for 
 a his Pen again, as if he would have corre&ed 
 44 the Cypher which made the Bill fifty, he put 
 44 in another Cypher, and fo made it five Hundred 
 tc Crowns $ reading it now aloud to his Servant 
 44 and the poor Woman '■> commanding her to 
 
 44 beftovv 
 
 . u 
 
io 9 SUOfflge t&OttSfe Italy* Part II. I 
 
 lL bedew Pier Daughter with that Money 7 and 
 w if it were not enough, to come again to 
 4t him, and he would make it up. A true Ro- 
 u man Charity. 
 
 As for thofe Charities which concern the 
 for^Eviis Mind y if a great King of Egypt wrote over his 
 fa Library- door, Medicina Animay Phyfick for the 
 
 Mind. Mindy here in Rome I find (lore of fuch Phy- 
 Cfmunduas [ n Libraries ^ Colledges , MonafierieSy and de- 
 
 apud/Lro- v ° u t Cdmpanies. And fir It for Libraries 7 you 
 fhall find here (befides the Libraries of every 
 Religious houfe) the incomparable Library of 
 the Vatican (of which more below) thofe al- 
 Ubr tries ^ ar ^ na ^ Barber in 7 of the Duke of Alt emps'y 
 
 ' that of Sapienaay and that of the Augufiins 7 the 
 laft two being open to all Men every day, 
 with a courteous Gentleman to reach you any j 
 Book, and a learned Alanufcript in Folio , ad- 
 drefling you to the Authors that treat of any 
 Subject you define to be informed of, which 
 affords great help to the painful Student. Then 
 Colledges. the Colledges and Seminaries of almoft all Na- 
 tions where youths are both fed and bred up 
 in Learning for nothing. 
 
 Monajle- Add to this the variety of Monafleries and 
 ties. ConventSy both of Men and Women, where 
 they may hide themfelves fecurely, donee tran- 
 feat Iniquitas . 
 
 r Then the taking away of young GirUy at 
 h<h ifesfor ten or twelve y ears old f rom t hei r poor fufped- 
 Girh. ed Mothers $ and the bringing them up ver- 
 tuoufly, under careful Matrons of known Ver- 
 tue,till they either chufe the Nuptial Flammeutn 9 
 QiXh^Saered Velum . 
 
 Then 
 
Part II. 3 dKOfftge Italy- i f 
 
 Then the Remedies for ill Married Women , Remedies 
 whofe unadvifed choice ('Marriages being often ^ r !^ ar * 
 made for IntereftJ or incompatible humours^ 
 force to a Corporeal reparation • and left fuch 
 unfortunate Women (hould either live inconti- 
 nently indeed, or give fufpicion of it, they are 
 provided here with a Houfe where they live 
 retiredly under Lock and Key , till they either 
 reconcile themfelves again to their Husbands j 
 or upon juft occafions, leave them for ever. 
 
 Over the door of this houfe is written. Ter le 
 dome mal maritate . 
 
 Then the Convent of Penitent Whores (that The Con - 
 none may perifh in Rome who have a mind to vent of 
 be favedj called SanCta Maria Magdalena in Penitents, 
 Corfo ; where many of thofe poor Magdalens 
 have led fuch penitential Lives, (as the bloody 
 Walls of their Cells , caufed by frequent dis- 
 ciplining, (hewed to all Rome in a conflagrati- 
 on of that Monaftery) that Paulus Quintus 
 himfelf being informed of it, would needs be 
 carried thither, to fee thofe Bloody Chambers 
 from the Street, and having feen them, wept 
 for Joy ; and 1 can fcarce hold from crying 
 out: O felt x culpa. . ■ 
 
 What (hall I fay of the Congregation of Ad- C j^^ rs °* 
 vocates and Anomies , inftituted in Rome , where - in Rome, 
 they meet once a Week to examine poor mens . 
 Law-Suits } and either dehort them from pro- 
 ceeding in bad caufes, or profeeute good cau- 
 fes for them at the coftof this Congregation. 
 
 What (hall I fay of feveral pious Clergy -men Broken 
 (efpecially the good Trtefts of the Oratory , Friend-Jet* 
 happy in this employment ) who make it tsrSm 
 their task to reconcile difagreeing Families, 
 
 and 
 
1 2 g age t&Otlg# Italy. Part II, 
 
 and with great zeal and piety, exhort firft 
 the one, then the other cf the parties, in- 
 tervene between them, fpeak well of the 
 one to the other, clear and take away jea- 
 lous mifunderftandings, and in fine, piece ar 
 gain broken Neighbours ? 
 
 Four Ser - What (hall I fay of the four Sermons daily in 
 
 mons daily the Chief a Nova , by the mod learned and good 
 in one Rriefts of the Oratory, who being mod of them 
 
 Rome* learned Men, as Baronins, Bofsus , Juftinianus , Re~ 
 naldus y &c. and able to fly high, yet in their 
 Sermons ftoop to a low pitch, and a Popular 
 facile way, which aims rather at converfion, than 
 oftentation and doth great good, though it 
 make little noife Dominus in Uni aura. 
 
 Weekly What fhall I fay of the Weekly Sermon to the 
 the Jew, upon Saturday-, where they are bound to 
 be prefent to the number of three hundred: 
 where the Pope entertains a learned Preacher, to 
 convince them out of their own Scriptures *and 
 thofe that arc converted, are provided for in the 
 Hofpital of the Catechumen s, till they be through- 
 ly intruded ? I have fecn divers of them bap-p 
 tized. 
 
 The Schol* What fhall I fay of the Schol* pi* in Rome, a 
 &*• company of good Religious Men, who look like 
 Jefuits, fave only that they go bare-foot in San- 
 . dais ? Thefe good Fathers make a profeffion to 
 teach poor boys gratis, their firft Grammar Ru- 
 diments, and to make them fit to be fent to the 
 Jefuits Schools *, and having taught them thus in 
 the Schools, they accompany them home in the 
 Streets, left they fhould either learn waggery as 
 they go home, or pradife it. Nay thefe hum- 
 ble Men make it their profeffion not to teach 
 
 higher 
 
Part II. a $UO?tfge t&otfjj# Italy. i j 
 
 higher Schools ; where there might be fome pro- 
 fit and honour, at leaft fome fatisfadion and 
 •pleafure : but they content themfelves to go 
 barefoot, and teach only the lower Schools , and 
 firft Rudiments ; by which they neither grow 
 wifer nor richer : A ftrange mortified trade ; 
 but Beati pauperes fpiritu , 
 
 What fhall I fay of the Fathers of the Agoni- ji e 
 zants , whofe Vocation is, to be the Seconds of thers of 
 thofe who fight againlt death it felf ; that is, the jgonU 
 whofe profeffion is, to ailift thofe that are in l m s< 
 
 * the Agony of Death ; and to help them to make 
 then thofe pious Atts, which Chriftians fhould 
 molt of all then rouze themfelves up to ? 
 
 What can be faid more; yes, Rome not con- 
 tent, to have fed, to have bred, to have conver- 
 ted, baptized, reconciled the living ; and affix- 
 ing the dying ; fhe extends her Chanty even be- 
 yond death it felf, and hath inftituted a pious 
 Confraternity , called La compagnia de MortijNhofe 
 office is to bury the Dead, and to vifit thofe 
 that are Condemned , and by praying with therrt, M or * t t * 
 exhorting them, and accompanying them to the 
 Execution, help them to dye Penitently, and bu- 
 ry them being Dead, and Pray for their Souls 
 being Buried ; after which. Charity can do no 
 more to Man, and therefore I will conclude, 
 that feeing fuch lingular Ads of Charity , both 
 for Body and Mind , are pradifed no where fb 
 much as in Rome , its true which I aflumed a- 
 bove, that Rome deferves to be call’d the Holy . 
 
 Having faid thus much of the Title of Rome , I 
 will now make my Reader better acquainted 
 with her, by deferibingthe Particularities which 
 I obferved here. And chat 1 may not ramble 
 
 in 
 
*4 
 
 Ponte An- 
 gelo* 
 
 The tri- 
 umphal 
 Bridge . 
 
 3 ©SMS t&Otlgft Italy; Part II. 
 
 in writing of Rome , as mo ft men do in vifiting 
 of it, I will begin at the Bridge called now Pon- 
 te Angelo, and from thence take the whole Gyro 
 of the City in Order* 
 
 Arriving then at the Bridge called anciently 
 Pons Elius , becaufe it was built by the Emperor 
 Etius Adrianus , but now called Ponte Angelo, be- 
 caufe it was upon this Bridge that S . Gregory the 
 Great faw an Angel upon the Afo/^^r/^/,fhea th- 
 ing his Sword after a great Plague : here we faw 
 the ftately new decoration of Iron- work with 
 the twelve Marble Statues fet upon it by this 
 prefen t Pope Clement the Ninth, and looking 
 down into the River on the Left-hand, we faw 
 the ruins of the Triumphal Bridge. 
 
 This Bridge was called the Triumphal Bridge , 
 becaufe over it Triumphs were accuftomed to 
 pafs anciently to the Capitol. This made it fo 
 proud, that it fcorn’d that any ruftics, or Coun- 
 try-Fellows fhould pafs over it; and got a De- 
 cree of the Senate for that purpofe. But pride will 
 have a fall ; and the proud Triumphal Bridge 
 hath got fuch a great one, that there’s but juft fo 
 much of it left, as to Ihew, where it was once ; 
 fo true is the faying of Aufonius , 
 
 Mors etiam Saxis nominibufque venit . 
 
 At firft the Romans were modeft enough in their 
 Triumphs , as in all other things : Hence Camillus 
 was content with four white Horfes in his Chariot ; 
 but afterwards luxury and excels banilhing out of 
 the City old modefty, they began to ftrivc who 
 fhould be the moft vain in this point.Hence/V/?- 
 fey was drawn in Triumph by four Elephants ; 
 
 Mark- 
 
Part II. S&Ofagt Italy. 15 
 
 
 Mark- Antony , by four Lyons : Nero by four Her - Vanity in 
 mophrodites, which were all four both Horfesand Triumphs. 
 Mares : Heliogabalus by four Tygers *, Aurelianus 
 by fix Stags \ and Firmicus by eight Oftriches. 
 
 At the end of Ponte Angelo (bands the Cafiel Ca J* el ** 
 Angelo, (o called, becaufe, as I faid before, S.Gre- & 0% 
 gory in a folcmn Procejfion during the Plague, faw 
 an Angel the top of Moles Adrians ftieathing 
 his Sword, to fignifie, that Gods Anger was ap- 
 peafed. Before this Miracle happened, it was cal- 
 led Moles Adriani , becaufe the Emperor Adrian 
 was buried here. It was built anciently in around 
 form of va(t (tones going up in three rows or (lo- 
 ries, lelfer and lefler, till you came to the top j 
 where ftood mounted that great Pine-apple of 
 Brafs guilt , which we fee now in the Garden of 
 Belvedere . Round about it were fet in the wall 
 great Marble Pillars , and round about the feveral 
 Stories Rood a world of Statues * This Moles be- 
 ing found a (trong place, Bellifarius put Men in- 
 to it to defend it againft the Goths , and they de- 
 fended themfelves in it a great while > J>y^bre3k- 
 ing the Statues in Pieces, and throwing them up- 
 on the Heads of the Gothes that befieged them. 
 
 Since that time divers Popes have turned it into 
 a formal Cafile. Boniface the VIII, Alexander the 
 VI, and Vrban the VIII, have rendered it a Re- 
 gular Cafile, with live (trong ' Baft ions, (lore of 
 good Cannons , and a conftant Garifon maintained 
 in it. From this Caftle I faw divers times thefe 
 Fortifications ; and below divers great pieces of 
 Artillery, made of the Brafs taken out of the 
 Pantheon \ and they (hewed us one great Cannon 
 which was made of the brazen Nails only, that 
 nailed that brafs to the walls of th c Pantheon, the r 
 
 length 
 
1 6 a wage t&OUgfr Italy. Part II, 
 
 length and form of thofe Nails, is feen upon that 
 Cannon , to fhew unto pofterity how great they 
 were, with thefe words upon it \ ex clavis trabia - 
 libus Portions Agrippce. In [this Caftle are kept Pri- 
 foners of State , the five Millions laid up there , 
 by Sixtus Quintus j the Popes rich Triple Crowns % 
 called Regni, and the Chief Regifters of the Ro- 
 man Chur cl. From the top alfo of this C tftle 
 you fee diftindly the long Corridor or Gallery, 
 Corridor w kich runs from the Popes Palace of the Vatican 
 from the t0 this Caftle , for the Popes ufe in time of dan- 
 Fihce to ger. It was made by Pope Alexander the VI. and 
 the Caftle. u f e( J by Clement the VII. who by it got fafe 
 into the Caftle, from the fury of the German Sol- 
 diers, who being many of them Lutherans , fwore 
 they would eat a piece of the Pope. 
 
 From hence entering into the Borgo, we went 
 towards S. Peters Church , and in the way flept in- 
 to the Church or the Carmelites, called Santa Ma - 
 Santa r * a Tranfpontina , where, in a Chappel on the 
 Maria left hand as you enter, are feen two Pillars of 
 Iran ft Stone enchafed in wood, to the which S, Peter 
 
 ponwta, anc j $ p au i were ry ed when they were whipped 
 before their death, according to the Romans cu~ 
 Horn. Here’s aifo the Head of S. Baftl the Greek 
 Father furnamed the Great. Here’s alfo a curi- 
 ous Pidureof S. Barbara in the Vault by Cava- 
 lier Giofeppe. 
 
 Going on from hence., we came prefently to 
 the Palace of Campeggi , fo called, becaufe it be- 
 longed to Cardinal Campeggi , the Popes Legat 
 in England , to whom Henry the V1U. gave it. 
 The Engiijh Heretofore ic belonged to the Engijh Embaila- 
 d™s pa- and was one of the belt in Rome, both for 
 
 l^e. being near the Pope’s Palace, and alfo for that 
 
 it 
 
Part II. 
 
 *7 
 
 it was well built by famous Bramante . It be- 
 longs now to Cardinal Coloma. 
 
 Over againft it Hands a little Piaz.za r with a 
 fine Fountain, and joyning to it a little Church 
 Called San Jacomo ScbizACavatli^ix which, under 
 an. Altar on the right hand, I faw the Stone upon sco??l° m 
 which Abraham offered to Sacrifice his Son Ifaac, cavalli. 
 and under another Altar on the left hand, the 
 Stone upon which our Saviour was placed, when 
 he was prefented in the Temple. Both thefe were 
 brought, or fent to Rome , by Helen Mother of 
 the Emperor Conftantine the Great. 
 
 Prefently after, you come to the Piazza of rheVovtU 
 St. Peter j built round about with a noble Portico C o of the 
 of Free-ftone, born up by four row^ of (lately Piazza of 
 round Pillars, under which, not only the Pro- Su Peter * 
 cejfion upon Corpus Chrifti day, marched in the 
 ihade v but alfoatl People may go dry, and out 
 of the Sun in Summer or Winter, unto St. Peter’s 
 Church, or the Vatican Palace. This Portico is 
 built in an oval form, and fetcheth in the great 
 Piazj^a^ which is before St. Peer’s Church, and 
 therefore can be no lefs than half a mile in com- 
 pafs. This noble Stru&ure was begun by Alex- 
 ander the VII, and half of it finifhed, and the o~ 
 ther half is now almolt finifhed. I never faw 
 any thing more flately than this. The number 
 ' of the Pillars and of the Statues on the top, I do 
 not jaftly remember. In the rnidfb of this Piazza 
 Hands the famous Guglia^ which was brought Tlx great 
 out bf tsEgypt, in the time of the old Romans , Guglia be* 
 and dedicated to Auguftus Ccefar and Tiberius , as f ore , 
 the words upon it import. It lay hid long in Ne - ter 
 ros Circus , which was there where now Sf. Peters 
 • Sacrlfy is, and at la ft, Sextus Quintus having 
 
 Bb 
 
 propofed 
 
i? Until. 
 
 propqfcd great rewards to him that would ven- 
 ture to fee it up here without breaking, it was 
 happily undertaken by Dominico Fontano , a rare 
 Archite<ff of Como 7 and fo placed as you fee it 
 stow. The manner of bringing it out of zsFgyfc 
 and of erecting it here, are both painted inFrefco 
 upon the walls of the ratican Library : This 
 
 Guglia is all of one Hone except the Bafts 7 and 
 it hath no Hicroghpbes upon it. TheHoneisa 
 GramtQ^ or freckled Marble , which together 
 with its BtifiSz is a hundred and eight foot high. 
 It refts upon four Lyons of Brafs gilt 7 and at 
 the top of it is planted a Crqfs of Brafs mounted 
 upon, three Mountains, with a Star over them 
 {the Arms of Sextus Quintus , whofe name was 
 Mmtalto.') Within the Crofs, is a piece of the 
 Holy Crofs of our Saviour, included here by 
 Sextus Quintus, The whole Guglia is faid to 
 weigh 956148 pound weight, i wonder what 
 Scales they had to weigh it with. 
 
 ? TkFeun- On each fide of this Guglia is to Hand fair 
 mns * Fountains, one whereof is that which is feen 
 there dpw 7 which throweth up fuch a quantity 
 of water, that it maketh a Mill always about it, 
 and oftentimes a Rainbow when the Sun llrikes 
 obliquely; upon it. 
 
 TbsPi&txa* T his Piazza is capable of two Hundred Thou- 
 fand (Men, and delivers you up to the Stairs 
 which lead you up to the Church of St. Peter, 
 
 St Peters Coming therefore near to St. Peter's Church., I 
 s * was glad to lee that noble ftructure, where great- 
 nefs and neatnef$,bulk and beauty are fo mingled 
 together, thatr'ins neither neat only, like a fpruce 
 Gallery 7 nor vaH only, like a great Hall 7 but 
 it’s rather like a proper Man ? and yet well pro- 
 portioned. 
 
Part II. a Italy. v) 
 
 portioned. You mount up to this Church by an The Marble 
 eafie afcent of four and twenty Steps of Marble ta 
 
 Stairs, as long as the Ftontifpiece of the Church chunL % 
 is wide*, thefe Stairs were thofe of the old 
 Church of St. Peter , and Baronins obferves, Baron ai 
 That when the Emperor Charlemagne mounted aH * 774 « 
 up thofe Stairs firft, he killed every fcep as he 
 went up. 
 
 Thefe Stairs lead you up to the Frontifpiece of The Fron» 
 the Church, which hath Eve doors in it, letting, tifpiece. 
 you into the Porch *, and thefe doors are cheeked 
 with vaft round Pillars of free-ftone twenty four 
 foot in compafs, and eighty fix in height. Over 
 thefe Pillars runs the Architrave, and over it the 
 Lodge or great Balcony, where the Pope is 
 Crowned, and where he gives his Benedi&ion 
 upon Eafter-day. Over this Lodge runs a conti- 
 nual Balufter or row of Rails, upon which' ftand 
 Thirteen vaft Statues of our Saviour, and his 
 Apoftles cut in Rone. 
 
 Entring into the Porch, you will admire the The Porch, 
 length, breadth and height of it. For the length 
 of it , it’s two Hundred Eighty nine Foot, the 
 breadth forty four foot, the heighth a Hundred 
 Thirty three foot. lc 5 s adorned on both lides 
 with great Marble Pillars, and a curious gilt 
 Roof. In fine, this Porch any where elfe would The church 
 be a handfom Church. ** fttf* 
 
 Over againft the five Doors of this Porch, 
 ftand the five Doors of the Church ^ one where- 
 of is called the Porta to##, and only open in the p ^ u Sin ~ 
 Jubile year : The others are daily open ^ and the 
 two principal doors are called Ealvce Santii Petri , y d j v ^ 
 and are covered with Brafs, by the command of Petri. 
 Eugenios the IV. whole memorable aftions, to 
 B b i wit. 
 

 20 3 t dotage Italy. Part it 
 
 wit, the Crowning of the Emperor Stgifm&mf 
 and the reunion of the Greek Church with the 
 Latm y are exprefled in them. Thefe Falva are 
 thirteen Foot wide, and forty five high j and to 
 them aM Popes Bulls are nailed at their publica- 
 tion. 
 
 Th infile Entring into the Church, I found it to be built 
 t inGrofs-wife; containing in length five hundred 
 st Veter anc * twenC y f° ot ? and three hundred eighty five 
 c in breadth. So that it pafleth in greatnefs,' the 
 famous Temples of Antiquity, to wit Solomon * s 
 Temple, long Threefcore Cubits: The Temple 
 of Diana in Ephefus , long four Hundred: Twenty 
 five foot j and the great ■ Mozli at long a 
 Hundred and fifty Cubits. f 9 
 
 Tbs Hoof. The Roof or Vault of this Church is arched 
 with great fquares, and each fquare is adorned 
 with a great gilt Rofe, which ai mod fills the 
 fquare. This Roof is born up by great Pillars 
 of Freeflone, of a fquare form, whofe Capitelli 
 are curioufly wrought, after the Corinthian order, 
 and joyned to one another above, by Arches and 
 a perpetual Cornice , over which are cut in ftone, 
 the Statues of feveral moral Vertues. Thefe Pil- 
 lars are a Hundred and five Foot in compafs, 
 and diftant Forty Foot one from another. On 
 that fide of them, which looks towards the Body 
 of the Church ^ they are to be over-cruffed with 
 white Marble, with two rows of niches in them, 
 for great Statues of Brafs gilt. The other iides 
 of thefe Pillars are already adorned with a neat 
 overcrufting of a reddifh Marble, befetwith the 
 Heads of the primitive martyr’d Popes, held 
 up by two Angels, and with the Pigean of Jnno- 
 cent tfre>X. (who made this decoration) and all 
 
 theft 
 
Part II. a ©Otage Italy. 21 
 
 thefe are in rnez.no rilievo, and of pure white A- 
 labafter. Behind thefe Pillars is a large Ifle, or 
 pafiage, and behind that Ifle immediately, ftand 
 fair Chappels, which flanck up this Church no- 
 tably, and each Chappel is graced with a little 
 Cupola of its own. 
 
 In the midftoftheCrofs building of this Church 
 is mounted the great Cupola , which looks like a 
 great Crown, wherewith this Queen of Churches 
 is Crowned. It refts upon four Pilaftri or great 
 Pillars, which make the corners of the Crofs of 
 this Church, and from them it rifeth into fuch 
 a high Vault, that it feems to walk into Heaven. 
 
 Its full as round as the Pantheon mRomejhat is, 
 it carrieth the compafs of an hund red 'and ie veri- 
 ty Paces, as you may eafily meafure upon the 
 circle of white Marble in the Pavement which 
 environeth the Altar of Sc. Peter, and is made 
 there on pirrpofe perpendicularly under theC&- 
 pola to fhew its greatnefs, the infide of this Cu- 
 pola is curioufly painted with Pictures in Mofa- 
 ick vyork, reprefenting a Heaven, indeed no- 
 thing but Heaven it felf can be finer or higher. 
 
 - So that I may fay truly to Rome with RutiUius . 
 
 Non procul a creh per tua Templa fumus . 
 
 In a word, this Cupola is the boldeft piece of 
 Archite&ure that perhaps the World hath feen j 
 and it was the laft and greateft work of Sextus 
 ■Quintus his Purfe. 
 
 The four Pilaftri upon which this Cupola reft- the four 
 eth, are vaft fquare Pillars, a Hundred and twen - great Pila- 
 ty foot in Compafs, and capable of Stairs within^ 7, 
 them.and large Sacrifices above, for the holy re- 
 Bb 3 licks 
 
22 a wm& Italy. Part XL 
 
 licks that are kept in them} to wit, the Volto 
 Santo or Print of our Saviours Face, which he 
 imprinted in the Handkerchief of St. Veronici } 
 The piece of the holy Crofs } the top of the 
 Launce wherewith our Savior’s Side was pierced, 
 and the Head of St. Andrew the Apoftle tranfla- 
 ted hither into his Brothers Church by Pius Se - 
 cundus. Hence in thefe great Pillars are cut 
 Niches, and in them plac’d four van Statues of 
 white Marble. Under the Rclick of the Volto 
 Santo Hands the Statue of the Veronica , under 
 the piece of the Holy Crofs, the Statue of St. 
 Helen. Under the top of the Launce, the Statue 
 of Longinus : under the Head of St. Andrew , the 
 Statue of St. Andrew. Thefe Statues are of Co- 
 lofj'ean greatnefs, and made by Mailers as great 
 as themfelves. 
 
 In the midlt of the Crofs of this Church, and 
 The ^perpendicularly under the very Cupola ft ands the 
 Aim. high Altar of this Cjuirch. This Altar may well 
 be called the high Altar, {Alt are quafi alt a ara ) 
 The Tomb or l ^ Q ^ tare Ma]us\ being the nobleft Altar in 
 of su Pe- t i ie World, both for matter and form. The 
 ter. Altar it felf Hands over the Tomb of St. Peter , 
 half whole Body, together with half of S t.Pauls y 
 lies buried here} and the other half of their Bo- 
 dies in St. Pauls Church. Over this Altar four 
 Hately Pillars of Brafs bear up a Canopy of the 
 fame Mettal, wrought about the Edge like a 
 Canopy indeed, with Vallanccs and a gilt 
 Fringe, yet all of Brafs. Over the corners of 
 this Canopy, Hand four great Angels of Brafs 
 gilt, and in the midH of it is mounted high a 
 round Ball of Brafs gilt, and a fair Crofs upon 
 it of the fame mettal. 
 
 Thefe 
 
Part II. 
 
 2 ? 
 
 Thefe four Pillars are as great in compafs (f ^ Us four 
 fpeak by experience, having taken the meafure 
 them upon their model ) as three ordinary men ta9 • 
 
 are thick. Their Form is Serpentine, wreath- 
 ed about withVine-trees and Leaves *, but all of 
 Brafs; as alfo adorned with little Angels of Brals 
 clambering up thofe Leaves and Branches, and 
 with Bees here and there alfo, relating to Pope 
 Vrbans Arms, who made them. Thefe Pillars 
 are fifty foot high from the ground. Eveigr one 
 of them weigheth five and twenty Thoufand 
 Pound weight, and all of them together make 
 this Altar, the Altar antonomafticaliy, as this 
 Church is the Church of the World. So that 
 if the Climax be truef as true it is) that Churches 
 are for Altars, Altars for Priefts,Priefts for God, 
 
 I know no Religion which payeth fuch honoura- 
 ble tributes of W orfhip to God, as the Roman- 
 Catholick Religion doth, which hath the noblefl: 
 
 Church, the nobleft Altar, £he nobleft Prieft,the 
 noble ft Sacrifice, and all this to the nobleft God. 
 
 Deus Dcorum Dominus. Hence the Pope may fay 2 . FaraJip. 
 with Salomon : Domus quam tfdificarc cupio mag - c. 2. 
 na eft y magnus eft entm Dominus nofter fuper om - _ 
 
 'nes Deos . 
 
 Behind this Alter (not in refpecf of him that The Con* 
 comes into the Church by the great door, but 
 refpeft of him that ftands at the Altar) ftands 1 e£ri * 
 the Confeffion of St. Peter ; fo called, becaufe 
 that in the Primitive times, the place where the 
 Bodies of Saints and Martyrs were kept, was cal- 
 led Confeffioy and in the Greek Church Martyri - 
 um. For in ancient Writers the word Confeflor 
 was taken often for a Martyr, who had confeiled 
 Chrift fo far as even to die for him : So that Mar- 
 
 w: 
 
 B b 4 
 
 tyrs 
 
24 awojsget^oogft Italy. Part II. 
 
 tyrs are fometimes called ConfefTors, and Con- 
 feffors Martyrs, though they did not a&ualiy die 
 in Torments ; as you may fee plainly in the An- 
 Hm. i. notations of learned Pamelius upon TertuUians 
 Book ad Martyr es, Now this place becaufeitcon- 
 ferves the Body (fat leaft half of the Body ) of St. 
 Peter , is called the Confeffion of Peter. As for 
 this Confeffion, it’s made like a hollow Gave, open 
 above, and railed about with low Rails, fo that 
 the People kneeling may look down to the Iron 
 door and grate, behind which the Tomb of St. 
 Peter Hands, under the Altar *, for thefe Rails 
 fetch in a demi-circle from one corner of the Al- 
 tar to the other. There are alfo a double pair 
 of open Stairs, of fome twelve ftepsa-pieee,for 
 thofe to defcend by who officiate, and there are 
 two little half doors which let them in to thofe 
 Stairs. And I conceive at the bottom of thefe lit- 
 tle doors, the Limina Apojiolcrum to be. For 
 though I know it’s generally held, that to viftt 
 7k Limina Li m i n <x Apoftoloyim ( which Bifhops by their 
 lorrn Canon Law are oblig’d unto,) is to vifit St. Pe- 
 ter's Church; and that divers learned Authors 
 think the Limina Apoft riorum to be the very Heps 
 of the entrance of the great door of the Church; 
 yet I am of opinion, that thefe little half doors 
 and theHepsabout the Altar, are moll properly 
 the Limina Apoftolorum , becaufe I found thefe 
 very words written in Golden Letters in the 
 bottom of the like little doors, which Hand a- 
 bout the high Altar in St. Paul's Church, where 
 the other half of the Bodies of St. Peter and St. 
 Paul are intomb’d. 
 
 riis/ Pe- R oun( * a k° ut t ^is Church Hand Side ChappekJ 
 
 tri. * " fome fix and twenty in all, called anciently Cu- 
 
 bicub , 
 
Part II. amO?agfetWg^Italy. 25 
 
 bicula, and thoiV whom v/ec4li Chaplains were Via Ana- 
 anciently called Cubicnlarit : Hence the title of ^ BiM- 
 Cubicularius S. Pstn. Now thefe Chappels have 
 for the mod part fame remarkable thing in Pan!in.°" 
 them. In one of them is always referv’d the B. Epift, *, 2# , t 
 Sacrament for the daily u(e of Pilgrims that de- ^ Sever, 
 lire to communicate iii St. Peters Church, and 
 other devout People. In that of St . Gregory 
 Nauanzen, is the Body cf that Saint tranflated zcnsJomb 
 hither out of the Church of the Nuns of Camp 
 Marzo. In the Chappel of the Canons, repo- 
 feth the Body of St. Chryfofiome. In the Chap- ^* Chrifo-. 
 pel called the Clementina , repofeth the Body 
 St. Gregory the great, who being Pope of Rome, st. Grego- 
 and moved by Godly Indindion (as John Stow ries Tomb. 
 faith) fent Auguftin , Juftus , Melitus, and other Stow hit 
 Monks living in the fear of God, to convert the 
 Angles , or JEngli/h , to the Faith of Chrift } and s axons J 
 therefore I took particular notice often of his 
 Tomb, as being (as venerable Bede calls hiin) 
 our Apoftlc. In a Chappel at the very farther 
 end of the Church is fet up the Chair of St. Pe- 
 ter, held up by four Doctors of the Church, - all 
 cad in Brafs in a ftately Poflure. This Chair J- S e f c ^ tr 
 is of Wood, but much fpent with old Age ^ * C 
 
 and therefore Pope Alexander the Seventh cau- 
 fed it to be fet up here, and enchafed curioufly 
 to preferve it. I once faw it near at hand, be- 
 ing expos’d to publish view in the middle of 
 the Church upon the Fead day of St, Peter's 
 Chair in Rome. In another Chappel is the Cru- 
 cifix made three hundred Years ago by rare Pie- 
 tro Cavalino. In another Chappel you fee cut in 
 white Marble the Hiftory of St. Leoh meeting 
 Attila out of Rome , and his hindering him from 
 coming any nearer to the City* As 
 
_ J 
 
 26 a wage if%. Partir. 
 
 The chief As for the Relics and Bodies of Saints which 
 Zghcs. are j n this Church, befides thofe mentioned al- 
 ready, there are the bodies of SS. Simon and 
 'Jude, of S. Petronilla , of SS. Proceffus and 
 Martini anus, of ten firft Popes after St. Peter j 
 with a world of other precious Relics kept in 
 the Sacrifty. 
 
 Some As for the Tombs which are in this Church a- 
 
 Tombs. bove ground, they are thefe.That of Sextus IV. of 
 
 Paulus III j of Vrban the VIII of Leo the XI. of 
 Innocent the VIII *, of Gregory the XIII j of Inno - 
 cent the X j and laftly that of the Countefs Ma- 
 tilde, the only fecular Perfon that I find to have 
 a Tomb in this Church above ground. Indeed 
 fhe deferves well to lye in St. Peter's Church, 
 who deferved to be called St* Peters Daughter , 
 and file deferved this furname, for having de- 
 fended the Church fo gallantly in its greateft 
 conflid, again tt; Henry the IV. Emp. and having 
 endowed it with a good part of its Patrimony. 
 Her Body was tranflated from Mantua hither, 
 in the year 1633. by the command of Pope 
 Vrban the VIII. 
 
 Near the Confeflion of S. Peter, is an old bra- 
 zen Statue of S. Peter, fitting with his hand up 
 as giving his blefling ; and holding his right foot 
 a little out, to be killed. At firft, fome wonder 
 to fee devout People flocking thither, and kitting 
 the Foot of that Statue, and putting their heads 
 under that Foot, when they have done but 
 when they are well informed, that all this is 
 done, only to teftifie that they fubmit them- 
 felves to the Authority which was given by our 
 Saviour, to S . Peter and hisSucceflbrs, they reft 
 fatisfied. 
 
 Over 
 
27 
 
 part ii. a $ mstb 
 
 Over the Holy-water-pot, on the left hand, 
 as you enter into the Church, is feen, faitned 
 to the wall, an old Iufcriptiqn upon a fquare 
 Stone, importing, that that was the very itone 
 upon which the Bodies of St, Peter and St. Paul 
 were divided, when half of their Bodies were 
 buried here, and the other half in St. PauPs 
 Church, by St. Silvefter. 
 
 As for the prime Pi&ures that are in this some 
 Church j they are thefe: That of Sr. Michael in P r hm Pi- 
 Mofaick wor£, is of the defign of Cavalier Cio- & ures * 
 feppe : As alfo the defign of the Mofaick work in 
 the Cupola . That of St. John Evangeliif, and St. 
 
 Luke juft . under the Cupola y are of the hand of 
 Giovanni de rechi. The Pi&ure where St. Peter 
 cures the lame man, is of the hand of Ludivico 
 da Civoli. That of the fall of Simon Magus , is 
 of the hand Krnni of Siena. That where ££. Pe- 
 ter is painted with Annanicvs dead before him, is 
 of the hand of Cavalier Kane alii. That of the 
 Altar of St. Gregory , is of the hand of Andrea 
 Sacco Romano. That of the Creation of the 
 World, is of Pietro Berettino de Cortona . That 
 of Medic# fidei 0 is of the hand of Lanfranco. 
 
 Having thus feen the Church, I went to fee rhe Sacru 
 the Sacrifty of this Church, where by exprefs fty cfst. 
 leave from the Monfignor , who hath the chief Peter, 
 care, as well as the Keys of it, I faw the Holy 
 Relics, and neat Church-plate belonging to this 
 Church. The Relics are many, and richly en- 
 chafed in Gold and Silver. The Church Plate 
 is both plentiful and of great value, as many 
 'Chalices of pure Gold fet with Jewels, huge Sil- 
 ver Candlefticks, with a Crucifix of the fame, as 
 heavy as a Man can lift, with a world of other 
 J T fuch 
 
aS a wage Italy. Part II. 
 
 fuch like Plate. But that which pleafed me molt 
 here, was the ancient Picture of St. Peter and St. 
 Paul, which St. Stlvefier fhewed to Conftantine 
 the Great, to confirm the truth of his Villon. 
 The Piaure is very old, yet the faces, are per- 
 tiZT m ceivable and that is all. It’s let in a frame of 
 ' Silver. The Hiltory of it is both long and 
 known : And if any man be ignorant of it, let 
 him read it in Baronins. There is alio in the 
 faid Sacrifty, another Picture nailed high upon 
 the wall, which was made by N. Carpi with his 
 Fingers, inftead of a Pencil. 
 
 The Grot Being now j n the Sacrifty, I got leave to go 
 
 Peter’s*" dovm int0 the Gr0t undtr this Churdl ’ with a 
 Chunk practical Clericus, with a lighted Torch to fliew 
 
 me and explicate unto me the moll confidera- 
 ble things that are there : As the Tomb of St. 
 Peter with an Altar over it, at which any Bifhop 
 or Pried may fay Mafs : a world of ancient fta- 
 tues (fet in the low Ghappels, and in the wail of 
 this Grot) which belonged to the old Church of 
 St. Peter, and ihewing the Antiquity of Piftures 
 in Churches : The Tomb of the molt honoura- 
 ble Churchman of our Nation, Pope Adrian the 
 Adrian the IV. the only Englifii Pope that ever was: The 
 1 T 0m b of the Emperor Otho the fecondpn a great 
 
 iwram. Porphiry shrine: The Tombs of divers other 
 great Popes and Cardinals : And in fine, the 
 Tombftone of Charlotte of Luugnan, Queen of 
 Jerusalem, Cyprus and' Armenia, who having been 
 driven out of her Kingdom by her Baftard Bro- 
 ther came to Rowe in Sixtus Quartus his time, 
 and there died. She transferred before her death 
 her right to the Kingdom of Cypm, to the Duke 
 of Savoy her Brother-in-law \ which makes that 
 y Duke 
 
Part II. a tlttOttgl) Italy. 29 
 
 Duke give a clofe Crown over his Arms, and be 
 ftiled by his Subje&s, Altera Real , Royal 
 Highnefs. 
 
 Having thus feen this Church both within and p Peter ^ 
 under ground, I was defirous to fee it alfo a ' 
 
 bove. Afcending therefore by a fair Stair-cafe 
 I arrived at the great Terras over the Ledge, 
 and there faw the Thirteen Statues of our Savi- 
 our and the Twelve A pofties, near hand, which ' 
 feem below, a little taller than the Statue of our 
 tailefl Men, and yet here above are eighteen 
 Foot high. There alfo 1 faw the feveral little 
 Cupola’s , which give light to the fide Chappels 
 of this Church,and look like the iffue and fpawn 
 of the Great Cupola. Then mounting a little 
 higher, I beheld a rare Fabrick of the Mother 
 Cupola , both within and without. The Stairs to 
 mount up into it, the double Vault in it, and 
 flairs between the two Vaults : The Lantern up- 
 on the Cupola : The narrow Stairs in one of the 
 Pillars of that Lantern, up to the Ball : Laltly, 
 the flraight neck ofthe paffage into the Ball, and 
 the Ball it felf, are ail worth particular obferva- 
 tion, as being the height of Architedlu re. The 7h , 
 Ball it felf of Brafs gilt, is capable of thirty Men, BtiVdpt- 
 though from below, it looks only as bigas twicer of 3 o 
 a Mans Head. We were eight in it at once, and Men. 
 
 I am fire we could have placed thrice as many 
 more. Upon the round Ball is mounted a great 
 Crojs of Iron gilt, to fignifie, that the vertue of 
 the Crofs by our Saviour’s paffion,hath triumphed 
 over the World, of which this round Bail is the 
 exprefs Emblem. From this Cupola we had a 
 perfect view of Rome under us, and of all the 
 Villas about it. But nothing was fo wonderful, 
 
 as 
 
30 a mot age Part IL 
 
 Praife of as to fee S. Peter* Church and Palace, look like 
 St ; Peter '-y a Town under us, which we knew to be but one 
 Church, church and Houfe. 
 
 You will wonder perchance too, when you 
 Iball hear that this Church is the eighth wonder 
 of the World, that the Pyramids of Egypt, the 
 Walls of Babylon , the Pharos Colojfus , &c. were 
 but heaps of Stones compared to this Fabrick: 
 That it hath put all Antiquity to the blufh, and 
 ail pollerity to a Non-plus : That its feveral parts 
 are all incomparable Mafter-pieces : ItsPidures 
 all Originals: Its Statues perfed models : That 
 it hath a revenue of above Twenty Thoufand 
 Pounds a year, only for the Fabrick : That it 
 The revs - COx ^ tl ^ l * ie y ear I( ^S4- (The accounts be- 
 
 nue of si. ing then fummed up) Forty Millious of Crowns : 
 Peter’x That molt of the Popes fince Julius the II. his 
 church, time ( and they have been twenty three in all J 
 have encouraged and advanced this'work : That 
 the prime Architeds of the World, Sangalla , 
 Bramante , Baldajjere , Buonarota , Giacomo della 
 Porta, Giovani Fontana , Carlo Madcrno , and 
 now Cavaliero Bernino , have brought it on to 
 this perfedion : That the whole Church it felf 
 is nothing but the Quinteflence of wit and 
 wealth, drained into a religious defign of ma- 
 king a handfome Houfe to God, and of fulfil- 
 ling the Divine Oracle which promifed ; that 
 magna erit gloria domus ifiius noviffimec, pluf~ 
 Jggzi 2. 9 . epuam prim#. 
 
 Going at laftout of this Church, and fumming 
 up in my thoughts all the Rarities I had feen in 
 it, I began to think of Ammonias (a holy primi- 
 tive Saint, and afterwards Bifhop in the Coun- 
 cil 
 
Part II. 
 
 cil of Sardis) of whom its written, that coming Baroniua 
 to Rome with S. Atbanafius , he defired to fee no- 390* , 
 thing there but S. Peter’s Church, and knew not n * 
 the way to any place elfe } I think, that if this 
 good man had feen S. Peter’s Church as it is now, 
 he would never have cared for feeing any thing 
 elfe in the World, and would even have forgot 
 his way home too. 
 
 Near to the Church of S. Peter ftands the Va- Us Vati- 
 tican Palace, where the Popes ufe to Winter, can?*/#*. 
 To defcribe it to you all at length, would take 
 me up too much time , nor indeed is it fit for 
 me to dwell there. I will therefore pafs thro* 
 it quickly, and rather point you out what’s to 
 be feen there, than paint you out in words what 
 I faw there. 
 
 1 . From the Church of St. Peter you afcend 
 into this Palace by an eafic and ftately pair of 
 Stairs, capable of ten Men a Breaft. Thefe 
 Stairs render you up arthfe great Hall called 
 Said Regia, becaufe the P’ope receiveth here WeSzk 
 Embafladors of Kings in their Embaffies of Regia. 
 State. It is beautified with rare Pictures in a 
 "great volume: as that of the Emperour Frede- 
 rick killing the Popes Foot, of the Hand of Gi- 
 ofeppe del Salviati Garfagnino. That of the Ltg- 
 ne in France : that of Coligni , that of the Pope 
 condemning Herefie, that of the Pope return- 
 ing from Avignon , are all of the hand of Geor - 
 gio FdJJdria. That of the Emperor Charles the 
 Great, figning the brief of the Donation, is of 
 the hand Tbadeo Zuccare : that of the battel of 
 Lepanto , with the Pi&ure of Faith at the fide of 
 if, is of the hand of Donato Formello . 
 
 2. This 
 
3 2 a dosage t Italy. Part II; 
 
 2. This great Hall Hands between two Chap- 
 pels, the Paulina and the Sifta. In the Vaulina 
 is feen a rare Pidure of the Crucifying of St; 
 Peter, by Michael Angelo. The roof of it alfo 
 was rarely painted by Fiderico Zuccari , but the 
 finoak of the Candles upon Manday Thurfday, 
 when this Chappel ferves for the Sepulcher, 
 hath fo defac’d thefe Pidures, that a far worfe 
 Hand would have ferv’d there. 
 
 Us Popes 3. The Chappel of, Siflo is that in which the 
 chappel. pope holds Capella upon certain days, and where 
 all the Cardinals intervene. In the end of this 
 Chappel upon the wall is Painted the laft Judg- 
 ment by Michael Angelp , a Piece Famous over 
 all the World. The green Garments of St. 
 Katherine, and the Head of St. Biagio , are of 
 the Painting of Daniel of Kelt err a , who was pre- 
 fently fet a work to m^ke thofe Garments, when 
 the Pope had given exprefs order, that this 
 rare Pidure fhould be defac’d, becaufe of fome 
 nakednefs in it. Upon great days this Chappel 
 is hung with a rare fait of Hangings of the de- 
 fign of Rapheal Vrbin , wrought with Gold and 
 Silk, containing the Ads of St. Peter, and Su 
 Paul. 
 
 The Popes ^ Behind this Chappel Hands the Popes Sa- 
 Sacrify. • a place fcarce known to Strangers, and 
 
 therefore feidom feen by them, tho’ very well 
 worth the feeing. It’s kept always by a Pre- 
 late, who is always an Auguftin Fryar, and a 
 Biihop, and called Monfignor Sacrifta. In Au- j 
 thors of high times we find mention of this j 
 Officer, under the names of Cimilidtcha, or chief j 
 Sacriftan . Here I faw rare Church-Ornaments 
 for the Popes ufe. Thefe in particular 1 can not 
 
 let 
 
Part It 9 QWge Italy. 3 j 
 
 lec pafs without mentioning. The Cope of St. 
 
 Silvefter Pope, thirteen hundred years ago. The 
 neat Chafuble of Cloth of Tifllie, with the Pi- 
 ctures of the miniftring the Seven Sacraments, all 
 embroider’d in it in Silk and Gold fo rarely, 
 that the late Lord Marfhal of England , Tho. Earl 
 of Arundel , got leave to have it painted out, and 
 fo much th<b more willingly, becaufe it had been 
 given to the Pope by King Henry the VIII% a 
 little before his Schifme. Then the incompara- 
 ble Suits of Ornaments for Prieft, Deacon, anti 
 Sub-Deacon, to be us’d in high Mafs y which were 
 ; given by King Sebaftian of Portugal , and fet all 
 over with Pearl, and thefe Pearls were the firft 
 that came out of the Indies , and were in all eight 
 ' Hundred pounds weight of Pearl. The other s 
 ! rare things here, were the Head of St. Laurence , ^ ^ 
 
 which I law near at hand, through a Chryftal : a Head. 
 piece of the Spunge, in which the Jews gave our 
 Saviour gall to drink : the Camifia of St. Prifia 
 a Primitive Saint Martyr’d in it 1400 years ago, 
 the Crucifix in which is fet under a Chryftal, a 
 piece of the Holy Crops carved with the paffion 
 of our Saviour in it : a Thorn of our Saviour’s 
 Crown of Thorns, which belonged to Pius Quin- 
 tus , a Crofs fet with Diamonds and Pearls, which 
 the Pope wears at his breaft in great Fun&ions, a 
 great Ring which he alfo wearech in fuch Fundi-, 
 ons j it’s fet with a fair Saphyr, and four great 
 Pearls : a fair Crucifix enamei’d and befet with 
 ftore of Pearl and Jewels : the Popes Pallium 
 which he wears in great Functions : the Fiftula 
 or Pipe of Gold, wherewith the Pope receives 
 the confecrated Blood of our Saviour in rhe 
 Chalice upon great days : the rare Chalices of 
 
 0 c Gold 
 
34 3 me tlfttitfgft Italy* Part IL 
 
 Gold fee wirii t'eiT and yec more precious for 
 their Workmanfhip than for their mattery the 
 great Chalice of Gold, into which the Cardinals 
 put their written Votes in chufing the Pope by 
 Scrutiny; the five Triple Crowns called Regni f 
 four whereof are fet thick with precious ftones 
 andPearls of great value, and therefore ordinarily 
 kept in the Catlie Angelo: two Mitres of the fame 
 Richnefs ; the chryftal Pixe in which the Blefled 
 Sacrament is kept in the Sepulcher upon Manday 
 Thursday : In fine, the Book of the GofpePs 
 painted in Miniature by the Famous Giulio Glorio y 
 for whofe firft Pifture here(of the lafl Judgment) 
 Paulas Terrius fent him fifteen hundred Piftols, 
 as Monfignor Sacrifla allured me. 
 
 5 . Faffing from hence through the Sala again,' 
 I was led into the great Room hard by, where 
 the Pope wafheth the Feet of thirteen Pilgrims 
 upon Manday Tburfday ; and then giveth every 
 one of them a great Meddal of Gold with Four 
 Piltols, and another of Silver. 
 
 The Gd- Thence I was led into the open Gallery 
 .Vrv pim- w hj c h Jooketh upon the Court ; 1 mean the fe- 
 phael. va * conc * ffor there are three fuch open Galle- 
 ries) where the Hi (lories of the Bible are paint- 
 ed moll curioufly in the roof of it by prime Ma- 
 ilers. That of Adam and the Creation : that 
 where Ad cm fows: that where the Sheep drink? 
 that where Jacob fa w the Ladder; that of the 
 iaf: Supper of Chrill with his Apoftles : that 
 where Mofa fhews the Laws, are all of the hand 
 Raphael Vrbin. That of the Deluge, and of 
 the adoration of the golden Calf, are of the hand 
 of Raphael dal Borgo . That where Jofue com- 
 
 mands the Sun to Hop : that of Berfabe and the 
 
Part n. a mmii tijJOttSij Italy. 3 1 
 
 like, are of the hand of Pierino del Jfago. That 
 of the Chariot and fome others are of the hand 
 Caravagio . That of Mofes fir iking the Rock ; 
 that of the Judgment of Solomon , and fome o- 
 thers, are of the hand of Julio Romano. That of 
 the Baptifm of Chrift, with other fuch like, are 
 of the hand of Pellegrino da Modena . Yet be- 
 caufe in ail thefe Pictures Raphael Vrbin gave ei- 
 ther the defign, or fome touches, this Gallery is 
 called Raphael's Gallery : Indeed nothing but 
 the Divine Hiftory it lelfcan be finer than this 
 Painting of Divine Raphael. And it belongs only 
 to Rome to have the Bible fet out tnub in its own • : 
 
 colours : and if Pidures be the bed Books for ig- 4 
 
 norant People, who can fay that the Bible is 
 kept from the People here,feeing it’s painted and 
 Printed here in the mod vulgar Tongue, and 
 known Language, Pidures ? In a word, Raphael 1 s 
 Colours feemed to me to illustrate the Text very 
 much, and to be an excellent Comment upon 
 the Holy Scripture. 
 
 7 . From this Gallery I was led into the great 
 Chamber, where ConfiantinPs Vidory over Ma- Con ^ an 
 xentius is fo rarely painted upon the walls by Ra- tine’s bD- 
 phael 1 s own hand , that this Painting ferves this tel with 
 Chamber not only for a richTapeftry,but alfo for Maxen- 
 an Internal Trophee to that Emperor. The fe- tius * 
 veralpoftureshereof Men and Horfes all in Con- 
 fuiion, yet all in fuch due proportion, make this Tbebeftde- 
 Pidure (in the Judgment of Monfieur poujfin a fa - fignedPi- 
 mous Painter) therarefl thing in the World for dun in the 
 defign. In the ocher following Rooms there are World* 
 divers ocher rare pieces of the fame hand ; as 
 that of Attila and Pope Leo: that of St. Peter in 
 Prifon, a Piece much admired for the perfpedive 
 
 C c 2 of 
 
5 6 a ©Otage Italy. Part II. 
 
 of it : That pt the B. Sacrarhfcnt : that of the 
 burning of the Sorgo : that of zAZneas carrying 
 his Father Anchifes out of the Flames, are of Ra- 
 phael's hand. The Hiffory of Heliodorus over the 
 Chimney, is of the hand of Julio Romano y Ra- 
 phael's Scholar. 
 
 8. Going up from hence into the higheft: open 
 Gallery, you! find it painted with Geographical 
 Maps of the Hand of Antonio da rarefe. The 
 roof of it is alfb well Painted by Pomerancio , Pa- 
 ris Romano , and BronzJni^ excellent Painters all. 
 SaUClc - 9 - Then coming down, I faw the Sala Clamen- 
 
 memina. tina y a Noble Room. The rare perfpectives in 
 the Roof, and in one of the Corners, both of 
 them expreffing the Arms of Clement the VIII. 
 are worth your attentive confideration. 
 
 10. Then the divers Chambers of his Hoii- 
 nef$,.hung ail with Damask Hangings in Sum- 
 mer, and Velvet Hangings in Winter, are very 
 neat. In the Popes Bed-chamber, I faw the grave 
 Picture of our Lady with her Son in her Arms, 
 called S. Mary Major , is painted curioufly upon 
 a white Tranfparent Scone, three fingers thick, 
 
 . - and yet, {hewing the Pi&ure on both fides 5 if 
 held before the Sun. 
 
 1 1. The great Room gilt over head, where 
 the Pope treats at Dinner great Princes, when 
 they come to Rome . 
 
 12. The old Appartment of Pius Quintus y 
 with the great wooden Bed, or rather the little 
 wooden Chamber ot Paulus Quintus. 
 
 Arm 13. The rare piece of Perl'pedive, over the 
 Tkce of door of the long P^oom leading to the Gallery of 
 ^ a P s * At the firft looking upon it, you fee no- 
 thing but certain Types or Figures of the Blef- 
 
 fed 
 
Part II. S OJOtage Italy. 37 
 
 fed Sacrament out of the Old Yeftament } but 
 being placed directly under it, and looking up- 
 wards, you fee all the forefaid Types contract- 
 ed into the form of a Calice, and an Holt over 
 it, to fhew, that thofe old Types and Shadows, 
 prefigured only the Body and Blood of our Sa- 
 viour, in the holy Sacrifice of the Altar. 
 
 14. The Long Gallery of the Maps of Italy Theme 
 ■ painted upon the Walls on both fides, by Paulus 
 Brillus a Flemming and others} and that fo di- ^ * 
 ltinctly, that you fee plainly every State, Pro- 
 vince, City, River, Village, Cattle, High-way of 
 Italy ^ and where any Famous Battel was Fought, 
 either in the Romans time or fince ; A Gallery 
 which I wifn I had fpent as many hours in, as I 
 fpend days in going up to Rome. Divers other 
 Galleries there are in this Houfe, which I pafs 
 over in lilence. 
 
 1 4. But I cannot pafs over fo, the long Gallery ^ g oiler 
 leading to the Belvedere , in which is kept the 0 f t j d QCon- 
 Conclave of all Popes : In this one great Room, clave. 
 Fifty or Threefcore Cardinals lodge, and have 
 
 every one two Chambers, one for himfelf, and 
 the other for his Conclavifb } Ex ungue Leonem , 
 you may judge by this what the whole Houfe is } 
 or elfe by this what they allure you, when they 
 tell you, that there are five Thoufand Chambers 
 in that Palace. 
 
 15. From the middle of the forefaid Gallery, They ati- 
 you enter into the Vatican Library, Famous all caa Librx ’ 
 the learned world over, for having in it, befides 
 
 the Regittcrs of the Roman Church, the choifett 
 Manufcripts of the World in holy Languages. 
 
 This Baronius found, who drew from hence no- 
 table fuccor, fur the maintaining this Eccleilafti- 
 
 C c 3 cal 
 
38 
 
 a mo^age tt)?Otl£$ My. Part SL 
 
 cal Hiftory againft the Centuriators of Magde- 
 bourgi who wanting thefe afTured aims, and be- 
 ing otherwife wrongly biafied, made faults in 
 their Hiftory as many as their Centuries, and as 
 great as their Volumes. The defcription of this 
 Library hath been made by learned Angclus Roc - 
 ca in Latin^ and by Mutius Panfa in Italian : Yet 
 for the fatisfadlion of my curious Countrymen, 
 
 I fhall fay fomething of it. Firft the Room is a 
 vaft long Room, fprcading it felf in the further 
 end, into two wings of building, which are full 
 of Prefles, where the Manufcripts are kept care- 
 fully from Mice and R.ats, and moift weather. 
 At the entrance into this Library, you are let in- 
 to a fair Chamber full of Desks for a dozen of 
 Writers, who have good ftipends to copy out 
 Books in all Languages j and they are bound to 
 be writing fo many hours in a morning. Round 
 about this room hang the Pictures of all the Car-* 
 dinals that have been Bibliothecarii fince Sixtus 
 7he libra* Quintus his time. Then entring into the Li- 
 rj it felf. brary it felf, I faw the vaft wide Room fuppor- 
 ted (like a Church J by great iquare Pillars, a* 
 bout which are as many Cupboards where the 
 Manufcriprs are conferved. On the wall on the 
 right hand, are painted in Frefco the General 
 Councils of the Church, with the Bible in the 
 midft, laying open upon a ftately Throne, and 
 with the order and place of precedency obfer- 
 ved in them : As alfo fome notable Accidents in 
 Eccknnfticai Hiftory. On the left hand are 
 painted all the famous Libraries anciently men- 
 tioned by Authors : And upon the great Pillars 
 are painted the firft Inventors and Promoters of 
 Learning. This long room fpreads it felf at laft 
 
39 
 
 Part II. ft QlOpSge tifcOUgt) Italy. 
 
 nto two wings on each hand ; both which are 
 full of curious Books, both Manufcriptsand Prin- 
 ted Books ; divers of which were (hewn me with 
 great civility, by Monfignor Holjlonius then Kee- 
 per of this Library,wbom I had formerly known. 
 
 The chief of thefe Books were thefe. 
 
 A vaft Hebrew Bible, too heavy for any man 
 to lift up. 
 
 An Ancient Copy of the Septuagints Tranfla- Some nn 
 tion in Greek, after which the Bible hath becn* w * f krf. 
 Printed both in Borne and London. 
 
 The A&s of the Apoftles in Greek, curioufly 
 written in Golden Letters. 
 
 The Gofpel written by St. Cbryfoftom's own 
 hand. 
 
 An Hebrew Bible written in (beets of Parch- 
 ment palled to one another,and rowled up: hence 
 the word Tolumen for a Book. 
 
 A little Book written in Bark of Trees : hence 
 the word Folium for a Leaf in a Book. 
 
 Certain old Roman Table-books. 
 
 A China Table-book of Wood, in which they 
 wrote with a pointed Steel. 
 
 A curious China Book all in Hieroglyphics, 
 and folded up in many folds : Our Purchas in 
 his curious Navigations hath both Printed and 
 deciphered it. 
 
 Polidore ptrgiP s Hiftory of England , written 
 with his own hand. 
 
 An old Book of Sermons in Latin, in whofe 
 Margin St. Thomas of Aquin hath made notes with 
 his own hand. 
 
 An old Virgil, with the Pictures of the Hifto- 
 ry in old Painting. 
 
 C c 4 
 
 An 
 
4 o a WWW tuougfy Italy. Part II r 
 
 An Oid Terrence written Twelve Hundred 
 years ago, and the ancientdt that ever Politan 
 faw, as he teftifieth under his own hand, in the 
 infide of the cover of this Book. 
 
 Baronius his Annals in his own hand Wri- 
 ting. 
 
 The rare quotations out of the ancient Fa- 
 thers, painfully and faithfully Colle&ed out of 
 the belt Copies, by Learned Cardinal Sirleto , in 
 the time of the Council of Trent , and fent by 
 him weekly, by the Poll from Rome , to the Fa- 
 thers in the Council, who proceeded to their 
 Definitions, by the Ancient Tradition of the 
 Church, found fo plainly and unanimoully in 
 thofe Fathers. Thofe Quotations make fix Vo- 
 lums in Folio : And this was it, which our Ad- 
 verfaries call, the fending down of the Holy 
 Ghofi: to Trent , in a Cloak-bag j when it was ; 
 only the fending down of thefe faithful Teftimo- 
 nies of the Tradition of the Church, gathered 
 out of the molt Ancient and Authentic Copies. 
 
 Henry The Letters of Henry the VIII. of England to 
 the VIII. j 4 nn Bolen his Miltrifs then, in his own hand 
 
 to Ann Bo- W ril * n £b f° me * n fome in French, but 
 
 4 o 1 all A^matory. It is eafie to imagine them writ- 
 ten by him, if you compare the Hand-writing 
 of thefe Letters, with thofe two Verfes written 
 by the Kings own hand,in the Frontifpiece of the 
 following Book j to wit, 
 
 The Book which the laid H. wrote againlt 
 tie viir Martin Luther , and Dedicated it by a couple of 
 hpf BooTa-, Latin E'erfes , written with his own Hand, in the 
 gainft Lu- Frontifpiece of it, to Pope Leo the Xth. Which 
 fker 0 Book purchafed to K. Hen . the Honourable Ti- 
 tle of Defender of the Faith 9 
 
 Then 
 
Part II. aojovagetlliottsfc Italy. 41 
 
 Then I was (hewn the Library of the Duke of The Libra* 
 Vrbin , who dying without Heirs Male, bequea- 
 thed his Library to the Vatican Library here. In 
 this, I faw many rare Manufcripts written in 
 Parchment, and painted in minature : Efpecially 
 that Book, in whofe Margins are Painted by a 
 rare hand, and wonderful diligence, all the In- 
 feds in Nature, in their lively Colours and true 
 Refembiance. 
 
 Over againft this Library, they {hewed me in The Libra, 
 the fame Room, the Library of Heidelberg, fent ^ ^ Hei ~ 
 to Rome by the Duke of Bavaria , after he had tlL xrg * 
 dilpofleffed the Elector Frederick , Prince Palatin 
 of Rbene } of his Country, as well as of the King« 
 dom of Bohemia which he had feiz’d on, at the 
 mitigation of Bethclem Gabor and others. See 
 the Mercure Franfois. They (hewed me bere,a- 
 mong divers other Books, the Book of defigns of 
 the faid Prince Eletfor Palatin , which he had dc- 
 ligned being young. Happy Prince, if he had 
 not defigned to himfelf another Mans Crown. 
 
 In the great room of this Library, there is an ffe pj ace 
 Iron door, which letteth you into a more fecret ofHegi- 
 Room, where the Regilters of the Church offers. 
 Rome are kept: The Keeper of which Regilters 
 was anciently called Chartularius j an Office much 
 like to that in the Greek Church ; called Charto- 
 phylax. 
 
 In fine, I was fiiewn here divers Letters of 
 great Perfons andPrinces,written with their own 
 hands, as of S. Charles Boromeus , to Cardinal 
 Sirleto , who had a hand in his Education } of 
 Queen Mary of England ; King Philip the Se- 
 cond of Spain her Husband, {tiling himfelf King fins. 
 pf Spain 7 England , and France j of Francis the 
 
 firlt 
 
42 SI aorage Italy. Part II, 
 
 f/drjk La- 
 tin . 
 
 Canon Paf- 
 chalis. 
 
 The Belve- 
 dere, 
 
 The great 
 Tine-apple, 
 
 The two 
 Ppicocks, 
 
 firft of France \ of Margeret of Parma that Go- 
 verned Flanders when it revoked ^ of Prefident 
 Vargat a Spaniard, and a great Statefman in 
 Flanders , but no great Latinift, as it appeared by 
 his Anfwer to the Do&ors of Lovain ( petitio- 
 ning him in Latin for their priviledges) when he 
 faid \ Non curamus voftros privthgios, Mali fa* 
 xerunt ttmpla j boni nihil faxerunt contra : Ergo de- 
 bent omnes pattbulari : The terms of the expoftu- 
 lation, being as harfh as the conclufion of it 4 
 and fome old polite Orators had rather have 
 been hangM indeed, than threatned in fuch bad 
 Latin. 
 
 A little before I went out of this Library, I 
 faw near, the door, the Statue of Hyppolitus Bi- 
 fhop ofPonua ('who lived 1400 years ago) fit- 
 titf§ in a Chair of ftone, upon which is cut in 
 Greek Letters, the ancient Canon Pafchalis , up- 
 on which Schaliger and others have written. It’s 
 a curious piece of Learned Antiquity, and wor- 
 thy to be taken notice of. 
 
 1 6. Having feen the Library, we were led on 
 by the long Gallery, mentioned before, unto the 
 Belvedere, where we defeended into the Popes pri- 
 vate Garden, full of Orange-trees, fine Walks, 
 and Fountains. Here are three or four unavoid- 
 able wetting places to thofe that are not acquaint- 
 ed with them. Hence you go down to fee the rare 
 Fountain of the Iron Ship. In this Garden I faw 
 the Pine-apple of Brafs gilt, which is as great as 
 three men can fathom about, and twice as high as 
 the talleft men can reach. Here alfo ftand by it 
 the two great Peacocks of Brafs gilt, which flood 
 anciently upon Scipio Affricanus his Tomb, and 
 are fome three or four yards long. 
 
Fart II; 91 W«ge t&MIflfc Italy. 43 
 
 17. From hence we were led hard by, to fee The Beive- 
 the Belvedere of the Mafcbere , which Michael 
 Angelo called his Study. It’s a fquare Court fet Ma c ere * 
 with Orange-trees, in whofe walls are great 
 Niches, with leaves to them of wood, where 
 the choice Statues of the World are conferved 
 under Lock and Key, and free from ill weather. 
 
 The chiefeft Statues are thefe : That of the Ri- 
 ver Nilus, and that of Tyber % both in cumbent t ^ e u * 
 poftures : That of Antinus , minion of the Empe- we * 
 ror Adrianas of pure Oriental Marble,and rarely 
 cut: That of Cleopatra : That of Venus coming out 
 of a Bath: That of Commodus the Emperor: That 
 of Laocoon and his Sons, involved about with Ser- 
 pents.This Statue of Laocoon is the Mafter-piece of 
 Sculpture .That in the middle of the Court, of Her- 
 cules ,’ without Arms, Legs, orHead,isfo rare a trunk, 
 that Michael Angelo profefs’d, he had learned more 
 skill out of that broken Statue, than out of all the Michael 
 whole ones he had ever feen. Hence you fee al- Angelo’* 
 ways a world of Sculptures defigning it out: A Study. 
 piece of Lyons skin, yet appearing, made me not 
 doubt but it was the Statue of Hercules . 
 
 1 8. From hence we flept into the great Gar- rhe ut 
 den of the Belvedere^ full of Exotick Trees, cu- Garden of 
 rious Fountains, fhady Walks, and great variety Belvedere, 
 of Grots and wetting fports. 
 
 1 p. Laftly, in your return again through the ^ 
 Vatican Palace, we fa w the Armory full of Arms ry % 
 for Thirty Thoufatfd Men, Horfe and Foot, and 
 well kept. _ * 
 
 Having thus feen the Vatican Palace, I went 
 on with the reft of the Curiofities of the Town, 
 and took them in order as they lay. Hence go- 
 ing from S. Peter s t and leaving the Palace of the 
 mnH " ' Santo 
 
44 S wage tlfeoag& Italy. Part II. 
 
 Santo Santo Officio, on my right hand, I came prefent- 
 Officio. ]y to the Hofpital of S. Spirito , which is hard 
 » by. The licuation of this Hofpital near to S. Pe- 
 Spidto. * ters Church, was not done cafually j but with- 
 out doubt, upon deflgn, and for this end, that 
 Men might learn by the very iituation of Hos- 
 pitals, near unto great Churches fas I obferved - 
 in many other places, both in Italy and France ) 
 that Ghriftians, after they have performed their 
 duties to God, ought to pay in the next place 
 their duties to their Neighbour } and let that 
 Faith, which they came from exerciung in the 
 Church towards God, be made appear by good 
 works, exercifed prefently in Hofpitals toward 
 Men. Now this Hofpital of S. Spirito , is one of 
 the faireft in Europe both for bignefs and revenues. 
 
 It hath a thoufand Beds in it for the lick : A Pre- ; 
 late to govern it \ ftore of Priefts, Phyficians, and 
 under Officers to attend on them, and a revenue 
 of Seventy Thoufand Crowns a year. There is 
 alfo a Monaftry of Women in it, in a place fepa- 
 rated from the reft, capable of 500 young girls. 
 
 In the Appartments above ftairs there is hand- 
 fome accommodation for poor Gentlemen, found- 
 ed by the Gentleman-like Charity of Pope Vrban 
 the VIII, to this end, that thofe whom Fortune 
 had priviledged by better Birth, might not be 
 involv’d in common iniferies. There is alfo a 
 grate towards the ftreet, where little Infants are 
 put into a fquare hole of a Turn, and fo turned 
 in by Night by their unlawful Mothers, who not 
 Lewis dating t0 own them, would otherwife dare tode- 
 Guyon in ftroy them. Conftantine the great founded Inch 
 diver, kc. Hofpitals for expefed Children. The perfon that 
 L 2. c. 16. brings the Child in the Night rings a little Bell, 
 
 whofe 
 
part ii. a stooge t$?oo2& Ital y- 4$ 
 
 whofe Rope hangs at the outlide of chat grate, 
 and an Officer within comes prefently and recei- 
 ved! it^and having firft ask’d whether it be baptiz’d 
 or no,carrieth it prefently away, and recommends 
 it to a Nurfe, of which there are always llore in 
 readinefs entertain’d there at the Goff of the Hof- 
 pital on the Womans fide of the Houfe. When 
 the Children are grown fit for Inftrudion, 
 they are fet to Trades, the Girls are carefully 
 brought up by Religious Women there, till they 
 be fit for Marriage, or a Nunnery, according to 
 their Vocation. 
 
 From hence I went to Onofrios Church upon the ^.Onofri- 
 hill, where I faw the Tomb and Pidure over it, of os C ^ urc ^ 
 rare Torquato Tajfo whofe warlike Mufe is able 
 to infpire mettle into hisReader’s Breaft,and dif- 
 pofe him to the engagement of a new Croifade ^ omb 
 againft the Turks. This I can fay of him, if f Q Taffo^ 
 i Virgil hinder’d him from being the firft of 
 Poets, he hinder’d Virgil from being the only 
 Poet. 
 
 Returning down again, and going along the 
 Longara , l faw the ffately Palace of the Duke of Longim. 
 Salviati on the right hand, and the Villa of Chifi v 'iU chi fi* 
 (now called the Garden of t arncfi) on the Left 
 hand. In this Villa 1 faw rare painting attribu- 
 ted to Raphael Vrhin. 
 
 Over againif this Garden, lives now the Queen 
 of Suede ^ in whofe Palace, belides the rare hang- Queen 
 ings of Cloth of Gold, and of Arras, hangings Chriftinas 
 of Silk and Gold, I faw a curious Colledion of 
 Pidures, Originals all, and of the prime Ma- 
 ilers of the World : That of Sir Thomas Moor 
 is without doubt of Hans Holh'aim hand, and a 
 rare Piece. 
 
 Faffing 
 
4* a mm® tJ&OBgfr Italy. Part It 
 
 Puffing on the Longara ftill,l came to th e Por- 
 ta Septimiana , fo called from Septimius Severn; y 
 who built here his Tberme ; and fo up the hill to 
 St. Pan- Saint Pancratius his Gate, and to the Church of 
 Church ** t ^ lat pofiefTed now by difcalced Carmelits. 
 Camttlri- Under this Church is the Cameterium Calepodiij 
 nm Cak- where many Martyrs Bodies were buried. Here 
 poiis. was buried Crefcenttus the Tyrant, who feizing 
 upon the Cattle Angelo, fvvay’d all in Rome for 
 a while. 
 
 viiu Pam* From hence I went to the PtRa Pamfilia , which 
 fiti** is hard by. It’s a new rtUa y but its feated very 
 high, and from the tarrafs upon the top of the 
 Houfe you have a fine Profped. There are di- 
 vers good Pidures and Statues in the Houfe, and 
 fine Water-works, and a Grotta in the Garden. 
 The beft Pidures here are the Crucifixion of St, 
 Peter , and the Converfion of St. Paul, of Mt~ 
 cbael Angelo's hand. The entry of the Animals 
 into the Ark of Noah is a rare piece : the beft Sta- 
 tues are the wreftling of Jacob with the Angel in 
 white Marble : Seneca r s Statue, and the Bufio of 
 Innocent the X. of Porphiry : and his Head in 
 Brafs. 
 
 Returning again into the Town the fame way 
 we came. I faw the brave Fountain made by 
 Th* Foun ^ au ^ us Quintus, who caufed the water to be 
 Ui s n0 f un ' brought thither from the Lake of Braeciana , a* 
 Paulus v. bove thirty Miles off, by a ftately Aquedud * 
 and from hence it is difpers’d into the City, and 
 there makes new Fountains. 
 
 San Pie- Hard by ftands the Convent of Francifcans, 
 tro Mon- upon a Hill, called St. Pietro Montorio , where St. 
 torio. Peter was Crucified with his Head downward, in 
 that very place of the Court where there’s now 
 
 a 
 
47 
 
 Fart II. 3 tlOfage tftougft Italy. 
 
 around Chappei. £iuk c into the Church, I 
 was much taken with the Pifture, for the high 
 Altar reprefenting our Saviour’s Transfiguration, 
 
 It was the laft and beft piece of Raphael Vrbin's 
 making, and then I may lay it is the bell in the 
 World. I guefs it to be the beft of Raphael's pie- 
 ces y becaufe dying he commanded that this Pi- 
 dure of all his Pi&ures (hould be fet up at his 
 Feet after his Death. In this Church lies buried 
 the Earl of Tyrone , who fled from Ireland hither 
 in Queen Elizabeth's time. Here are two fine 
 Statues in Marble of St. Peter and St. Paul 9 of the 
 hand of Michael Angelo. 
 
 Going out of this Church you have a fair 
 fight of Rome under you from this Hill. This 
 Hill was anciently called Janiculus \ and upon it Mons 
 was buried Statius the Poet, and at the Foot of it ?iicu]us . 
 Nutna Pompilius . 
 
 Near the Foot of this Hill ftands the Church 
 and Convent of the Scala 9 belonging to the Dif- La Scai ** 
 calced Carmelits . The high Altar is very neat, 
 and the good Fathers (hewed us in a little Chap- 
 pel within the Convent the Foot of St. Therafa % 
 which is plainly feen through a Chryftal, in 
 which it’s kept. 
 
 Not far from hence ftands Santa Maria Tran - Santa Nkr 
 ftevere 9 the firft Church built in Rome (faith Ba- rU Tran - 
 roniuT) and built there where anciently ftood theft evsre - 
 Taberna Meritoria , where the maimed Souldiers M r — 
 received their Pittance daily. The gilt Roof, emori ^ 
 ,and the two rows of Marble Pillars, do much 
 beautify this Church. Under the high Altar is 
 yet feen the place where Oil ilfued out, as from 
 a Fountain, a little before our Saviour’s Birth, as 
 denouncing his Birth to be at hand, who was 
 
 to 
 
4 8 
 
 S. Fran- 
 cefco vi 
 Ripz Gran- 
 de, 
 
 Ripa Gran- 
 de, 
 
 S . Cicilies 
 Church . 
 
 Sf.€icilies 
 Tomb . 
 
 g Sopge Italy. Part H. 
 
 tb bz ca'iea Chrtjhis , that is -‘pointed. la this 
 Church lie buried Cardinal Hofms ,a molt learned 
 Trazf Father, and Cardinal Camptgms the Popes 
 Legat in England , in Henry the VI if. time. You 
 fee here the Stone that was ty’d about the Neck 
 of St. Calixtus Pope, when he was thrown into, 
 a Weil 
 
 Here alfo you fee great round Hones which 
 were hung at the Feet of the Martyrs to torment 
 
 them. 
 
 The Convent of Francifcan Fryars, called S. 
 Francefco in ripa grande , is hard by, where I faw 
 the Chamber where great St. Francis lodged 
 when he lived in Rome. It’s now turned into a 
 Chappel. In the Church there is an excellent 
 Pifture of Piety, made by Caraceio. Here in the 
 Church is the Tomb of Beat a Ludovico. ATathei I 
 of the third order of St. Francis. 
 
 I took the Ripa Grande in my way* and faw 
 there the Boats of Merchandife which come to 
 Rome from Ligorn , Ctvita Fechia , Naples , and o- 
 ther places, and difembark their goods here. 
 
 From the Ripa I went to St. Cicilies Church, 
 built where her Houfe was, and where fhe was 
 put to death for the Chriftian Religion. Under 
 the high Altar of this Chur ch is the Tomb of this 
 primitive Sainr, with her Statue in a couchant 
 Poilure, andjuft as her Body was found in Clement 
 the Vlllths time, wrapt up in vails Rain’d with 
 Blood j and cover’d with a Robe of Gold. The 
 neat Decoration before the high Altar, with the . 
 Silver Lamps burning before the Tomb of this 
 Saint, was the Foundation of Cardinal Sfondrati. 
 
 At the end of this Church, as you come in, are 
 feen yet the Stoves in which St. Sicily was Hint 
 
 up 
 
v Part II. gmotage- tfoOU&P Italy. 49 
 
 up in her own houfe to be (lifted, but that failing 
 fhe was Beheaded. The (loves are yet entire,and 
 (hewing the manner of the ancient (loves. In the 
 Church Porch I found the Tomb of one Adam an cardinal 
 Engltjh Bifhop of London 7 and Cardinal of this Adams 
 Title y who died in Rome s An. 1397. It hath Tomb. 
 thefe Verfes upon it„ 
 
 Artibtis ifle pater famofus in omnibus Adam 
 
 Theologus fummus 7 Cardinalifque erat p or Puit. 
 
 Anglia cut patriam , titulum dedit ifta Beat<£ 
 
 , kAides C<zcili<£ 7 morfque fitprema Polum . 
 
 Not far from this Church, (lands St. Chyfogo- St. Chry- 
 ms his Church, a neat Church, repair’d fome Togonus. 
 years ago by Cardinal Burghefi. The four Pil- 
 lars of the high Altar look as if they were of 
 Sand and Chryftal petrified together. On the 
 Left , hand of the Wall near the great door lies 
 buried Robert Arch-Bifhop of York , and titular Cardhai 
 of this Church \ this was all I could learn out of Robert 
 the Tombftone. Jrchbijbop 
 
 Having thus wandred over the Trajlevere 7 I York » 
 made towards the lie of St. Bartholomew 7 \\\ which 
 (lands a good Hofpital, and a Conveht of Fraricif- 
 eans 7 in whofe Church repofeth under the hi?h 
 Altar in a fair Porphyry Tomb, the Body of St. 
 Bartholomew Apoflle. This lie was anciently cal- j^.Bartho 
 led infula Tiberina 7 and it was firtt made by the lomews 
 1 Corn of Tarquinius Superbus 7 which being (after 7mb * 
 
 1 his ejedion out of the City J pluck’d up by the 
 roots, and thrown into the River, by reafon of 
 the quantity of Earth tha t (luck to the roots,(lop- 
 ped here where the water was low 5 and this fto'pf- 
 { page once begurij all the Sit’d 6f the River came 
 
 0 d jffter 
 
50 
 
 a fSKWe t&IOtigft Italy. Part II. 
 
 afterwards to ftop here too j and fo in time to 
 form a little lie in the midft of the River. 
 
 Tome Going out of the lie by the Bridge of four 
 quarto Gz- Heads, anciently called Pons Fabricius^ which 
 * u joyns this He with the City, I looked down the 
 P ns fubli- ^ ver on m y Rig* 11 Hand, to fee the Pons Sub- 
 Items , which Cocks alone defended againftan Ar- 
 my, till the Bridge was cut down behind him : 
 Which he perceiving leapt into the River armed, 
 and fwam fafe to his fellow Citizens, who were as 
 glad to fee him come off fafe, as to find them- 
 felves fafe. It was called Pons Sublicius, from the 
 word Sublica in Latin, which iignifies great Beams 
 of Wood, of which it was made : it was after- 
 wards built of Stone by <t^Emiiius. From this 
 Bridge the wicked Emperor Heliogabalus was 
 thrown into the River and drowned, with a great 
 Hone about his neck. 
 
 No fooner was 1 over this Bridge, but I faw 
 on my left hand, the great back door of the Jew- 
 Jx Jewry. r y . f or h ere j em ,Q ve altogether in a Cor- 
 
 ner of the Town, and are locked up every night. 
 I entredinto their Synagogues here (which they 
 call their Schools J where they meet upon Satur- 
 days, and fing and pray. 
 
 I wondred at fir ft, that they had learned no 
 more manners in thefe their Schools, than to en- 
 ter into them to pray, without either putting off 
 Hats, lifting up Eyes, or bending of Knees to the 
 great Jehova , whom they rather fear than love. 
 Mojes going to him, put off his Shooes, and I 
 expe&ed, that thefe Men fhould atieaft^have 
 put off their Hats at the entrance into their Sy- 
 nagogues : But th$y are Arch Clowns, and their 
 fowl Towels, at the entrance into their Syna-' 
 
 gogues, 
 
part ii. a tuopage Tta b- 
 
 gogues, told me as much. I once law aCircum- 
 cilion, but it was fo painful to the Child, that it 
 was able to make a Man heartily thank God that 
 he is a Chriftian. And really, if the little Child 
 could fpeak and wilh, 1 believe he would wifh 
 himfelf the greateft curie in the World, and to 
 be a Woman rather than a Man upon fuch 
 terms. I few alfo a Marriage here performed 
 with many Ceremonies. 
 
 Returning out of the Jewry by the fame Gate 
 I entred, I faw on my left hand, the Palace of 
 Prince Savelli : It’s (built upon the ruins of the 
 Theater of Marcellas, built by Augufius, in ho- 
 nour of his Nephew MarceUus: It was capable 
 of Fourfcore Thoufand Men. 
 
 Pafling on, I came to an Ancient Church cal- 
 led Santa Maria in Cofmcdin , or in Schola Greca , 
 where St. Auftin 7 before his Converllon, taught 
 Rhetorick. In the Porch of this Church ftands 
 a great round Hone, cut into the face of a Man, 
 with a great wide mouth, commonly called, La 
 Bacca detta verita , the mouth of truth , but this 
 not being affirmed by the mouth of truth, I dare 
 not believe it: I rather believe it ferved in fome 
 old Building for a Gutter fpout : 1 know truth 
 may fpeak loud and have a wide Mouth ^ but he 
 that takes every wide mouth for the mouth of 
 truth, is much miftaken. 
 
 The next Church 1 came to was Santa Maria 
 Egypti'aca: It was the Temple of the Sun and 
 Jupiter. This Church is nearly adorned with cu- 
 rious chauelled Pillars. 1c belongs to the Armeni - 
 tf»*,who have an Hofpitalalfo here, belonging to 
 the Catholick Pilgrims of that Country: And 
 the Pope allows them to celebrate Mafs here after 
 their own Armenian rite D d 2 Q& 
 
 5* 
 
 Tkeatrum 
 
 Marcelli. 
 
 Santa Ma. 
 rid in Cof- 
 medin. 
 
 Bleed della 
 Verita. 
 
 Sr. Maria 
 Etjpiiacd. 
 
5 2 a ©Of age tftOttgft Italy. Part II. 
 
 On the other fide of the great Piazza ftands 
 the Church of St. Steven. Its rounded with cha- 
 nelled Pillars alfo. It was anciently the Temple 
 of Juno Matutina Morning Juno, or Alba Dea , 
 the break-of-Day Goddefs : A Goddefs, which 
 * our Ladies that never rife till noon, would ne- 
 ver have been devout to. 
 
 The Cloaca Clofe by this Church (which ftands by the Ri- 
 Maxima. ver fide ) the great fink of Rome , called Cloaca 
 Maxima , emptied it felf into Tyber. And tho 
 this were but a fink, yet it deferves to be men- 
 tioned among the rare Magnificencies of ancient 
 Rome. For it was nobly built by Tarquinus Prif- 
 cus 9 of Free-ftone, Arched over head, with a 
 world of Springs running into it : And it was fo 
 great, that a Cart might have gone in it. This 
 fink was one of the evident tokens of the great- 
 nefs and magnificence of Rome anciently } and in- 
 Marks, of deed a far greater evidence than that of Helioga - 
 ^eatnefs balus - 7 who caufed all the Spiders Webs of Rome 
 anciently. t0 be gathered together and weighed, that by fo 
 many pound weight of Spiders Webs, the great- 
 nefs of Rome might the better be conje&ured. 
 
 Going on from hence by the River fide, I 
 came to the foot of the Mount Aventin , and left 
 on my left hand, a Chappel belonging to the 
 Knights of Malta. Our Antiquaries tell us, that 
 The Temple n€ar to t hi s pl ace ft 00 d the Temple of the Bona 
 § ea ona Dea , into which no Man was to enter : And that 
 Cacus hU Cacus his Den was alfo in the fide of this Hill, 
 Pen* into which he drag’d Hercules his Oxen by the 
 tails, that no man fhould find out his theft by the 
 Footfteps. Upon the fide of this hill ftoodalfo 
 Scan Gg . £ [ ie Scalec Gcmonide ^ down which Criminal Perfons 
 wer^ tumbled into Tyber. 
 
 Going i 
 
Part II. 3 ©Otf&ge tft* Gtlgft Italy. 5 j , 
 
 Going up this Hili I went to St. Alexius his -ft. Alexi- 
 Church, where I faw the wooden Stairs, under hls f 
 which this Saint lodged for feventeen years in 
 his own Fathers Houfe (after fifteen years ab- 
 fence ) without being known to any Body, till 
 after his death. The body of this Saint lies under 
 the high Altar, together with that of St. Bom- 
 facius the Martyr. 
 
 Hard by upon the fame Hill, ftands St. Sabi - ^.Sabinas 
 no's Church, whither the Pope conies upon AJ h - C ^ urc b* 
 wednefday in a Solemn Cavalcata , accompanied 
 , with the Cardinals. 
 
 t Here alfo upon this hill, ftood anciently th efbeArmi- 
 , T emple of Liberty, and the Romans Armilujlrtum. 
 
 Dcfcending from hence, I made towards St. 
 
 PauPs Gate ^ and in the way I faw on my right 
 Hand the hill called Mons Teftacius , which was &- 
 , made of the broken Pots thrown there in the ft* clus * 
 i Romans time by the Potters . Its half a Mile a- 
 ) bout, and 1 60 foot high. 
 
 A little nearer the Gate of St. Paul y I faw the 
 Tomb of Cams Ceftius , built like a Ptramtd of Toe Tomb 
 [ and all of pure white Marble. This is °f C Ce- 
 
 il the molt entire work of all the ancient Roman ' * 
 
 » worfts. This Ceftms (as the words upon his Tomb * 
 t import) was feftemvir E^ulonum y that is, one of 
 I thofe feven Men called .Epulones anciently, be- Epulones* 
 t caufe they had the devouring of thofe Banquets, 
 which were fee before the Gods in their Le&ifter- 
 \ ftiSy in the Temple of Jupiter Cafitolinus . 
 
 » Paffing thence through the Gate of St. Pat 4 y tbeGate^ 
 i anciently called Porta Tergemina ; and Porta Ofei- St ‘ Pau * 
 enfis ; 1 went to St. PauPs Church, a little Mile 
 from the Town. In the way I took notice of a. 
 
 J little Chappei on the Left hand, where St. Peter 
 
 Dd 3 and 
 
54 
 
 Si tfljOtlgl) Italy. Part II. 
 
 one another, before 
 
 St. Paul's 
 Church. 
 
 Jft pros, 
 mho 
 
 and Sr* Paul took leave of 
 they were led to Martyrdom. 
 
 Soon after I came to S. Paul's Church* here S* 
 Paul was buried by Lueind a Roman Lady , and 
 therefore Conftantin the Great built this Church 
 in the honour of S Paul , as he had done that of S. 
 Veter mentioned above. It’s built crofs- wile, and 
 the body of it is 477 foot long, and 258 broad ; 
 with a hundred pillars in all, fet in four ranks \ 
 all of them ancient round marble pillars, taken 
 out of the Baths of Attcnius , faith Tajjari. Yet 
 in all this vaft body of the Church there are no 
 Chappels, nor any decoration, except at the 
 very end of it, near the great door, where there 
 is an Altar with thefe words in Hone over it. 
 Hie inventum eft caput S. Pauli . The moH re- 
 markable things which I faw here, were thefe. 
 The high Altar, with a Canopy of Hone 
 
 like a Tabernacle , born up by four Porphyry pil- 
 lars, and adorned with Hatties. Under the Altar 
 repofeth half of the bodies of S. Peter and S. Paul, 
 (as I obferved before in S. Peter's Church) and as 
 the Infcription upon the fide of the Altar here af- 
 firms in thefe words : Sub hoc altari requiefeunt 
 ' gjoriofa corpora Apoftolorum Petri & Pauli pro me - 
 dietate. Behind this Altar Hands the Confeffion of 
 S. Paul , like that of S. Peter deferibed above. 
 Under the little low doors which let the PrieH 
 into the Heps of the Altar, are written thefe 
 words in golden Letters, Limina Apoftolorum , 
 limmi A . raa } ;es me bold to hold againH fome Mo- 
 
 W alarm -(jem Writers, that this was the precife place, 
 and not the door of the Church, which was called 
 Limina Apoftolorum. 
 
 2. In 
 
Part II. a flotage Ikaiy. 55 * 
 
 2. In the old Arch m the top ot the roof, is yet 
 feen a piece of Moiaic Work reprefen ting our Sa- 
 viour in the midfl of the four and twenty Elders 
 of the A 'poclaypfe . This piece was made there 
 twelve hundred years ago in the time of S. Leo the 
 great j and at the colt of Placidia Galia (Caught 
 ter of Tbeodoftus , and Siller of Honorius) as the 
 two Verfes in that Arch teflifie thus : 
 
 Placidia pia mens operis decus omne reportat 7 
 Gaudet Pontificis Jludio fplendere Leonis . 
 
 3. The famous Miraculous Crucifix (Ttanding The min- 
 in a Chappel on the Epiflle fide of the High Altar) ™ious 
 which fpoketo S. Brtdgit . This Crucifix favours 
 
 the opinion of thofe who affirm that there were 
 two nails in. our Saviour’s feet. 
 
 4. The neat Chappel and Tabernacle of the B. 
 
 Sacrament , with the rare pictures relating there- 
 unto, made by Cavalier Lanfranco. 
 
 5. The picture of the Altar of S. Steven r made 
 by a Lady of Bologna , called Lavinia Fonta- 
 
 . na. 
 
 6 . The chief Relics kept here, are the Head Baron. A 
 of the Samaritan Woman Converted by our Sa- Matirol. 
 viour: The Arm of S. Anne Mother of our .?°* 
 blelfed LADY, and the Chain of S.unt miu 
 Paul. 
 
 From S. Paul's Church I went to the Tre Fort* 
 tane above a mile and a half off, and in the way, 
 
 1 palled over the place where S.Zeno 7 and ten thou- 
 fand Cbnjlians were martyred at once by t[ie com- 
 mand of Dioclefian the Butcher. Their blood 
 made this way holy all along. 
 
 Dd 4 
 
 Arriving 
 
t 56 a dosage mourn ifciy. Part n, 
 
 fre Few*- Arriving at tne Tre Fontane I faw there three , 
 Churches ftanding within a place anciently cal- 
 TheChurch Salviws. The firft of thefe three 
 
 of St. Vin- Churches is that of S. Vincent and Anaftafe , be- 
 cent mi ca^fe of their Relics fent hither- For about the 
 Anaftafe., y ea r the Emperor Htraclius fent the Head 
 of S. Anaftaftus with the Pidure of the fame Saint 
 Baronius unto Pope Honorius the Firft. A courteous Father, 
 
 An, 627. Q f § fiernarcPs Order here, did me the favour to 
 lhew me near the high Altar, this Head, and this 
 Pidure. Thefe two are moft authentical things, 
 for the atteftation of them is in the very Acts of 
 the fecond Council of Nice , held an. 789. where 
 to prove the lawfulnefs of facred Images againft 
 the Iconoclafts , the facred Council cites a Mira- 
 ® aron# ^* cle wrought by this very Pidure of S. Anaftafnts: 
 An! nit Barcnius quotes divers others wrought by the 
 fame Pidure. 
 
 The round In the fecond Church here, to wit the little 
 Church, round Church on the right hand, there is a fa- 
 mous Pidure of S. Bernards Extafis . Under 
 this Church I was led into a Vault where many 
 of the Bodies of the forefaid ten thoufand Chri- • 
 ftians, who were martyred with S. Zeno , are bu- 
 ried. This Vault goes a mile under ground. 
 
 Tre Fma- In t ^ e third place ftands the little Church of . 
 *<?. the Tre Fontane, ' fo called, becaufe S. Paul was 
 here beheaded, and where his head jumpt thrice 
 three Fountains gufhed out. Upon an Altar on 
 the left hand, is an excellent pidure of S. Veter's 
 Crucifixion, of the hand of Guido Rheni. On 
 the other fide is feen a little block ( within an 
 iron, grate J upon which they fay S. PauPs head 
 was cut off 
 
 Going 
 
Part II. a dotage tDjOlfg& Italy. 57 % 
 
 Going from hence, I went over the Fields to UeAn. 
 the Church of the Annunciata , one of the Nine nurj£ M*. 
 Churches of Rome, vifited by Pilgrims \ and 
 from thence to S. Sebaflians . 
 
 St. Sebaftiatfs Church is one of the Seven s. Scbafll- 
 Churches, and of great Devotion by reafon of an** 
 the Catacombes which are under it. Here I faw the c hureb. 
 Tomb of St. Sebajfian under an Altar on the left 
 hand : many relics kept over an altar on the right 
 hand, and the Vault underneath where Pope Ste- 
 ven was beheaded in his own Seat of Stone, and 
 where St. Peter's and St. Paul 9 s Bodies were hid- 
 den many years. 
 
 Thence 1 was led into the Catacombes , which The Cm- 
 are under this Church, and which from thence combes . 
 running many Miles under ground, made anci- 
 ently a Chriftian Rome under the Heathen. There 
 were divers of thefe Catacombes in the primitive 
 times, and they were called diverfly : Arenaria, 
 
 ' Cryptte, Arete, Concilia Afar ty rum, Poliandria ; 
 
 ; but moll frequently Cameteria, that is, Dorme - 
 : toria , becaufe here repofed the Bodies of the ho- 
 j ly Martyrs and Saints, qui obdormiverunt in Dg - 
 » mtno. But the greateft of all thefe Ctemeteria was 
 I this of Calixtus. In thefe Catacombes during the Cameteri- 
 Perfecutions raifed againlt the ChrilHans by ten 
 Heathen Emperors, the faithful Believers, toge- 
 ther with their Popes and Pallors, ufed private- 
 l ly to meet to exercife their Religion, and Real 
 their Devotions j that is, to hear Mafs in little 
 round Ghappels painted over head poorly } Mi- 
 nifter the Sacraments •, bury the dead Martyrs - 
 and ConfefFors in the Walls of the long Alleys, 
 
 Preach, hold Conferences } and even celebrate 
 Councils too fometimes. I defcended feveral 
 
 times 
 
5 S a tUO^age Italy. Part II. 
 
 times into federal parts of thefe Catacombes with 
 a good experienced guide (which yon mud be 
 fare of) and with wax Lights (Torches being j 
 too difling) and wandered in them up and down j 
 with extraordinary Satis fa&ion of Mind. The I 
 Streets under ground are cut out with Mens hands \ 
 and Mattocks. They are as high as a Man for the \ 
 mod part, and no broader than for two Men to 1 
 meet. All the way along, the Tides of thefe Al- ! 
 leys are full of holes as long as a. Man, and fome- j 
 times there are three rows one over another, in 
 which they had buried their Martyrs and Confef- 
 fors ? and that Poderity might* afterwards know t 
 which were Martyrs, which Confeflors, they 
 engraved upon the Stone which mur’d them up, 
 or upon one of the Bricks, a Palm Branch, in 
 fign of a Martyr and a Pro Chrifto in Cyphers 
 for a Confeflor \ it’s recorded, that during the 
 forefaid Perfecutions, a hundred and feventy 
 four Thoufand Martyrs were buried here in this 
 Cxmetary of Calixtus ; among whom were nine- 
 teen Popes Martyrs. Hence thefe Catacombes 
 have always been edeenPd as a place of great De- 
 votion, and much frequented by devout perfons : 
 The words over the door, as you defcend into 
 them from the Church of St, Sebaftian , tell you, ! 
 St. Hie- how Sk Hirome confefleth, that he ufed every 
 rom in Sunday and Holyday, during his flay in Rome , j 
 Ezechiel. to go to thefe Catacombes, and a Pi&ure hung over 
 * 4 ° # the fame door, fheweth how St. Philip Neri ufed 
 to frequent thefe holy places in the Night j and 
 from whence I believe he fucked that true Spirit 
 of the primitive Church, which reigned in him, 
 and dill reigneth in the breads of his mod ver- 
 tuous Children,the pious Priefts of the Oratory of 
 
 Rome , 
 
59 
 
 Part II. 3 ©OpftSt t&CUSlj Italy;, 
 
 Rome , whom l raoit ai^a } >;*u- wherefoever I 
 find them, becaufe 1 always find them either wri- 
 ting holy things, or living them , that is, either 
 writing Books fit to be lived, o^ living lives fit to 
 be written. Indeed it 7 s incredible how much the 
 prefence of thefe holy Martyrs bodies hath fan- 
 dbified this place: in fo much that no man enters 
 into the Catacombes but he comes better out, than 
 he went in. Catholics come out far more willing 
 to die for that faith, for which fo many of their 
 i Anceftors have died before them. The Adverfa- 
 ; ries of the Roman Church come out more ftag- 
 ; gered in their faith, and more mild towards the 
 ; Catholic Religion, to fee what piety there is even 
 in the bowels of Rome } Atheifts come out with 
 that belief, that fureiy there is a God, feeing fo 
 many thoufands of Martyrs have teftified it with 
 their blood. 
 
 From S. Sebafiians I went to the place hard by, capo At 
 called Capo di Bovc, Handing upon the Via Appia . Bove. 
 
 It is a great Building faced about with marble 
 Hones. It was the Sepulcher of Metella wife of 
 rich CraJJus. It’s now called Capo di Bove becaufe 
 of the Ox heads cut in marble which cojnpofe the 
 Cornice that runs about’ the top of the Moles . 
 i Entering into it you will wonder at the thicknefs 
 of the walls, which are above eight ells thick. It 
 was begun to be pulled down,efpetially the great 
 marble Hones on the outlide ot it, to make up the 
 Fontana di Tnvi $ but Cardinal Barberino would 
 not fuffer it to be fo defaced. 
 
 Clofe by Hand the ruins of the Pretorium , the ^ j* rm „ 
 Quarters of the Pretorian Bands, which the Em- rium, 
 perors lodged here, a little out of the throng of 
 the Town, that they might not occafion fo eafdy 
 
 tumults*, 
 
6o a ©Otsje Italy. Part IL 
 
 tumults } and that they might exercife them- 
 felves often in the Circo of Caracalla which was 
 hard by. 
 
 :freus Ca - This Circus was made by the Emperor Caracalla , 
 Acallx* and j s t h e mo ft entire of all the Circos that were 
 in Rom. You fee where the Careeres , or ftarting 
 place was, where the Meta j where the Gugha 
 were. You fee how long it was, and the walls yet 
 fhow you what compafsit carried. In the midft 
 of it ftood that Guglia which now ftands in the 
 midft of Piazza Navona. I faw it lye here broken 
 in three pieces, and neglected quite, till the Ear! 
 of Arundel our late Lord Marfbal , offering to 
 buy it, and having already depofited threefcore 
 Crowns in earneft for it, made the Romans begin 
 to think that it was fotne fine thing, and ftop the 
 tranfporting of it into England . At laft it light 
 upon a good ftone-fetter, who joyned it fo well 
 together, that it now ftands ftreight upon a rare 
 hqfis y and adorns the very heart of Rome : Thanks 
 to' that ingenious Architeft Cavalier Bernini , who 
 fet it up there in the anno fantfo, and whom it fet 
 up too again in the Pope’s favour Innocent the X. 
 which he had loft, by a crack in the roof of the 
 Porch of S. Peter\ Church, caufed by the heavy 
 fteeple which he had placed upon it. 
 the temple Near the end of the Circus of Caracalla , ftands 
 ef Venue an old round Temple, with another little Ante- 
 md Ho- Temple, clofe joyned to it ^ and out of which you 
 * m ' go into the other. What if this were the Tem- 
 ple of Honour? into which there was no paffage, 
 but through the Temple of Vertue, which was 
 joyned clofe to it, as this is: to manifeft, that 
 Vertue is the way to Honour. Now it’s certain 
 that thefe two Temples ftood not far from the 
 
 Porta 
 
St 
 
 Fare II. $ ©0page t&OWgfc Italy. 
 
 Porta Carpena (now called S. Sebafliatf s Gate,) as 
 thefe two do. But I declare that this is but 
 gueffing. 
 
 Hard by the forefaid old Temple there is an 
 Eccbo which heretofore (as they fay) would repeat ^ Ecc ^ % 
 after you a whole Verle of Virgil, but if fo, it u 
 was my fortune to find her when fhe had catch- 
 ed a cold *, for I could get nothing from her but 
 the two laft words of a Sentence. Indeed Aufoni - 
 us calls the Eccbo the tail of Words ; and Sympo * 
 fius faith, that the Eccbo is like a modeft Virgin, , 
 which fpeaks nothing but when fhe is asked. 
 
 Returning from S. Sebaftians towards the town 
 again, I pafled by a little Chappel called, Domine 
 quo vadis ? and anciently called, Santta Marta ad 
 pafjus , It’s called Domine quo vadis , becaufe our Domine 
 Saviour appearing here to St. Peter , flying out of 
 the Prifon of Rome , was asked by Peter , Domine 
 quo vadis ? Lord whither go you ? And he an- 
 iwered, Vado Romam ut ibi iterum crucifigar , I 
 am going to Rome, there to be Crucified again j 
 which words Peter undemanding rightly, ot 
 ChrtJP s fuffering in his Members the faithful Be- 
 lievers, returned again to Rome, and was fooa 
 after Crucified. In the middle of this Chappel 
 are feen the Prints of our Saviour’s feet in a white 
 marble flone, with an iron grate over them. 
 
 Entring into the Town by S. Sebafttarf s gate, s. Kerens 
 I went on (freight to the Church of S. Nereus and ani Achii- 
 Acbilieus , of which Church Baronins was Car- !eySv 
 dinal. The bodies of thefe Saints are under the 
 High Altar. Cardinal Baronius caufed this 
 Church to be painted with the Hiftories of Saints 
 and Martyrs, to excite others to devotion by 
 their Examples, 
 
 Almolb 
 
62 0 mmit Italy. Part It 
 
 SmSifto, Alraoit over agai oft V mb Churchy Hands the 
 
 Church of S. Sift a with its Monaftery made fa- 
 mous by S. Dominic , who made it his habitation, 
 and by whom God wrought many Miracles here. 
 It Hands in a moil unwholefom place called anci- 
 ently the Pifcina Publica , becaufe the People ufe 
 to wafh themfelves here. Here are buried S* 
 Sixtus , Lucius, Luc i anus, Sotherus , and Zepheri - 
 ms. Popes and Martyrs. 
 
 Here’s a fine Picture of St. Vincent ius Ferre - 
 rius . 
 
 i*f. John From thence I went towards the Porta Latina, 
 Ants Vor- and there fa w the Church, where St. John Evan* 
 um Lati - gelift was put into a Caldron of boyling Oyl. 
 ^T'lohn Then following the walls of the Town for a 
 Lateran’f g 00< i w hde, I came at laft to S. John Laterals 
 Church . Church, the Mother Church of all Churches in 
 
 The Pope's the World, and the Pope’s Cathedral. In fay- 
 Cathedral j n g t hi s j h aV e enough; and I fay this after 
 the words which are written in the architrave o- 
 ver the Porch of this Church, and after the Bull 
 of Gregory the XI. who declared this Church to 
 be the Popes chief feat, and to have the prehemi- 
 nency over the other Churches, Orbvs & Vrhis ; 
 even over S. Peter's Church too by name. It was 
 built by Conjlantine the Great upon mount Callus i 
 and dedicated to our Saviour himfelf, for whofe 
 fake it deferveth the headihip over all the other 
 Churches in the world, as he, to whom it is dedi- 
 cated, is the head of all the Eleft. Yet it is cal- 
 led diverfly by Ecclefiaftical Authors. Sometimes 
 BafilicaConftantiniana , becaufe Conftantin built it; 
 fometimes Bafilica Salvatoris, becaufe it was dedi - 
 cated to our Saviour. Sometimes Baftlica St. Jo - 
 annvs , becaufe it was near to the two Chappels 
 
 dedicated 
 
Part II. subpage Italy. 6 1 
 
 dedicated to the two St. Johns, in the Baptilkry of 
 Conftantine : fometimes it was called Bafilica St. ^ 
 Joarmis in Laterano, or St. John Laterals Church, 
 becaufe it was built upon the. place, where Plan - 
 tins Later anus, the defign’d Conful, had a fair 
 Houfe and a Garden, which Nero the Tyrant 
 made bold withal, having firft made bold with 
 their Mailer by killing him. Now this and the Tacitus 
 other great Churches of Rome are called Bafilica, and Juvc- 
 either becaufe they are built after a Royal and nal > Sau 
 ftately manner, or elfe becaufe they are built to 10# 
 the King of Kings. 
 
 As for this Church of S .John Later an. It. is here 
 that the Pope taketh poffelfion of his Papal charge, 
 after he hath been chofen and confecrated Bifhop 
 (if he were none before) in S. Peter's Church. For 
 this reafon all the chief Epifcopal functions of the 
 particular Diocefe of Rome , are performed here *, 
 as the confecrating of Bilbops and Priells, the con- 
 ferring of the Sacrament of Confirmation } the 
 Baptizing of converted Jews and Infidels. For this 
 reafon it’s looked upon by the Popes with great 
 refped, and hath been not only beautified by 
 them with coftly decorations, fuch as thofe that 
 Clement the VIII, and Innocent the X. made *, 
 but alfo favoured by them with great Preroga- 
 tives^ one declaring by his Papal Decree, that 
 this is the Mother Church of all Churches } ano- 
 ther fixing her -very Altar it felf (of wood) on 
 which St. Peter and the primitive Popes had of- 
 fered Sacrifice^ another allowing the Clergy of 
 this Church the Precedency over the Clergy of 
 all other Churches in publick proceifions, and to 
 carry before them two Crucifixes } another fix- 
 ing here the Pleads of St. Peter and St. fml 
 
 As 
 
8 mage tpmsb Ita| y- fart u 
 
 As for the things mofl to be taken notice of 
 here, they are thefe. 
 
 1. The Soffeta or roof of this Church mofl 
 richly gilt. 
 
 2. The Body of the Church all made new al- 
 moft by Pope Innocent the Xth y as to the inflde 
 of it. 
 
 3. The rare painting that runs crofs the Church 
 from the (lately Organs to the Altar of the B. 
 Sacrament, containing the chief aftions of Cow* 
 ftantine the Great, and other Hiflories. That of 
 the Afceniion of our Saviour, with the Apoftles 
 looking up after him, is of the hand of Cavalier 
 Giofoppe . The Hiflories and Figures about the 
 Chariot of Conftantin , are of the hand of BtUar- 
 dino. That of the apparition of our Saviour, that 
 of Mount Sorafte , that over againft Conftantin * s 
 Baptifm, are all of the hand of Parts Romano . 
 That of the Baptifm of Conftantin , is of the hand 
 of Cavalier Ricelli. In the Quire of the Canons 
 the pidlure of S. John is of the hand of Cavalier 
 Giofeppe. In fine, the pidlure of our Saviour in 
 the very Trihuno , or Ahfide , was the firft pidlure 
 that appeared publickly in Rome , and which was 
 miraculoufly conferved in the burning of this 
 Church. There are divers other pictures in that 
 vaulted Tribune in Moftcuc work; and fome fym- 
 bolical figures relating to our Saviour’s Life and 
 Paffiori, which were much ufed anciently in 
 Churches, as you may fee in many other Chur- 
 ches, and in the rare Book called Roma So terra - 
 nea, 
 
 4. The High Altar here, within which is fhut 
 up the wooden Altar, which S. Peter and the pri- 
 mitive Popes made ufe of in faying Mafs upon 
 
I ■ 
 
 Part IL a sopage ti)?Ot!gf) Italy. 6 ; 
 
 it, during the Perfections, and before they had 
 any fetled Churches, S. Silyefttr in the dedicati- 
 on of this Church, fixed it here, and none can 
 fay Mafs at this Altar, but the Pope, or during 
 the Popes indifpofitlon, fome Cardinal, with a 
 i particular difpenfation, or Afpofiolical Brief which 
 | mud be faftned to one of the four Pillars of the 
 Altar, during the Cardinal’s faying Mafs there. 
 
 Over this Altar (hands a great Tab'ernacle cf 
 Marble born up by four Pillars, not only ferving 
 For a Canopy to the Altar, but alfo for an Area 
 to the Heads of S. Peter and St. Paul , which are the He ah 
 kept within it, and fhown there to the People °t St • Pe ^* 
 upon great days through an Iron grate which en-p^ Sti 
 virons them. 
 
 ! 5. The Altar of the B. Sacrament adorned by 
 
 the cod of Clement the VIII, with a curious and 
 precious Tabernacle of rich polifhed (hones, and 
 I with four pillars of Brafs gilt, about fifteen foot 
 high. Over this Altar is the Table it felf upon 
 which our Saviour eat the Pafchal Lamb before 
 his pafifion, and then prefently indituted the Ho- 
 ly Sacrament, of which the Pafchal Lamb was but 
 a figure. 
 
 <5. The Brazen Tomb of Marlin the V. of 
 the Houfe of Colonna , who was chofen Pope in 
 ; the Council of Corifiance . 
 
 7. The Tomb of Alexander the lit, of the 
 Houfe cf 'BandtntlU in Siena^ neatly adorned by 
 Pope Alexander the VIl ? who took his name of 
 Alexander from him. 
 
 8. The Tomb o f Laurent ins Fall a ^ learned Ro± 
 man , and Canon of this Church ^ of whom, as 
 the redprer of pure Latine language after Goikk 
 Bdrbaroufnefs , Latonm fung thus ; 
 
 E © 
 
 Komulia 
 
66 & WQ$m Italy. Part II. 
 
 Apui $ o - Romulus eft Vrbis , Falla eft idiomatis author .* 
 vimu in E- 
 
 vfror° 8 ° r Teparat primus , primus ut ille ftruit . 
 
 p. In old Gofick Letters upon the Architrave 
 of the porch of this Church you read thefe Leo- 
 nine Verfes, 
 
 Dogmate Papali datur ac fimul Imperially 
 Quod Jim Cunttarum Mater & Caput Ecclefiarum. 
 
 io. In the Cloifter of this Church, I faw the 
 Chair of Porphyry , which ufeth to be placed near 
 to the great door of the Church, on that day the 
 Pope taketh pofleflion of his Charge in this 
 Church jin which chair the Pope is placed a while, 
 and at his riling from it again, the Quire lings this 
 verfe of the 1 12 Pfalm, Sufcitat de pulvere egenum 
 & de ftercore eregit pauper em : and this Ceremony 
 and pierced Chair are only to put the Pope in 
 mind of his human infirmities, arnidfl His glo- 
 teww/e^ ous exaltations, and the peoples applanfes. For 
 Jtonunuv. f 0 alfo the Greek Emperors on the day of their 
 1 . 1. Sett. Coronation, had a great many marble ftones, of 
 2. c. 3. feverai colours, prefen^ted to them, to chufe 
 which of them they would make their Tomb 
 Zenar and 0 f # Tins was to put them in mind of their mor- 
 Xdren. £a j; t y ami( jp; thofe great honours. 
 
 But it’s ffcrange to lee how the Enemies of the 
 Popes, give cut maliciouily, that this Chair 
 (whofeufe we fee fo plainly in the very Ceremo- 
 nial of Rome ) was only intended ad explorandum 
 fexum , and Jio hinder the inconveniency of ano- 
 ther Pope Joanne . For this reafon I think it not 
 
 amifs 
 
Part II. a B0£8ge t^OUglj Italy. 
 
 amifs to examine a little this table of a fhe Pope, 
 or of a Pope Joanne. 
 
 I am not afraid at all to call this a Fable, 
 both for the nnlikelinefs of it in general *, as alfo 
 for the fufpefted authority of its fir ft broachers ; 
 the contrarieties in the ftory } and the little credit 
 given unto it by the karnedeft Adversaries of 
 the Roman Church. Firft, what can be more un- 
 likely than that a Woman fhould furprize luch a 
 wife nation as the Italians are, and fogrofly? what 
 more unlikely, than that a woman fhould pafs 
 her youth in thofe fevere ftudies, which are re- 
 quired in Popes, without being known to have 
 wronged, or difeovered her Sex j and that fhe 
 muff juft do it, when fne was in a declining age, 
 at which age Popes ordinarily are chofen ? What 
 more unlikely, than that a woman finding her- 
 felf great with child, fhould vendue, to gofo far a 
 foot in a proceifion ? What more unh . d • , chan 
 that, if there had been fuch a fhe pope,t: . Gv xk 
 Church ("which then was. at odd* with th c - Roman 
 •Church ) fhould have pafled it over in nler.ee, and 
 not have upbraided her with fuch a disgraceful 
 Pa ft or, efpccially feeing the Roman Church had 
 upbraided the Greek Church 'with having an Eu- 
 nuch for her chief Patriarch i Wiiat in hne more 
 unlikely than that there fhould l a ve been fucii a 
 fhe Pope fo pnblickly convinced to have been a 
 woman, and that Anaftafms Bibiiothecarms who 
 wrote the lives of the Popes ibme thirty 1 years 
 after that pretended time, and who muff have 
 lived in her time, fpeaks nothing of any fuch wo- 
 man, or any fuch ftrange accident ? 
 
 Secondly, the firft broachers of this ftory make 
 •is very much fufpeded, feeing Martini:, Polonus 1 
 
 £ e % and 
 
 6 1 
 
 7 Is Fable 
 of Pope Jo- 
 anne. 
 
 VnlzkeJi- 
 nefs of tbit 
 Fable. 
 
 Enemies 
 
 iharge no 
 Proof, 
 
Contradi- 
 ction in the 
 Tale , ajign 
 if 'falfity. 
 
 Adverfa 
 ries con- 
 
 6S a^aget^Ottg^Italy. Part II. 
 
 and fonie others of thu Enq>*ors fa&ion (then 
 at variance with the Popes) are the firR that men- 
 T/earfay no tioned this Fable : and Platina, who quotes no 
 conviction, higher authors for it, grounds a itory of this con- 
 fequenceupon no better authority than a weak, 
 ft dice, it’sfaid. 
 
 Thirdly, the apparent contradictions in the 
 Tale, convince it of falfity : as that this Jone was 
 an Englifh Woman born in Mentz .. which all 
 men know* to be a Rhenifh Town in Germa ^:and 
 that (he had ftudied at Athens in Greece, which 
 long before this time had been deRroyed. 
 
 Fourthly, the lirtle credit given to it by the 
 learnedeft Adverfaries of the Roman Church, to 
 a^Falle ^ w * c ^ our P r * me Miniftersof France ( who take this 
 hiftory for a meer fable ) proves, iufficiently that 
 it’s worfe than an old wives tale. For Mr. Blondel 
 a French MiniRer, whom I knew in Paris above 
 twenty years ago^and a man of that account there, 
 that he was chofen to anfwer the learned Book of 
 Cardinal Ptron : this Blondel , I fay, made a Book 
 in French (Printed at Amfierdam by Bleau, Anno 
 i '647 in Octavo) on pur pole to fhew,that this Ro- 
 ry of a fhe Pope called Joanne was a meer fable. 
 And that we may not think that Blondel alone of 
 all ProteRant MiniRers,held this for a fable, Mon- 
 fteur Seravius a great CalviniR and Counfellor of 
 the Parliament of Paris , in a Letter of his to Sal- 
 mafius, having mentioned to him this Book of 
 Blondel , addeth thefe words : Noli autem credere 
 primum aut folum e nofir 'vs Blondellum ita finfifie } 
 quamvis fortaffis nemo unquam fortius & prejjius i- 
 Jrud folum calc aver it. Fuere enim in eadem fenten- 
 ua non incelebres inter Reformatos Tbeologi 7 & ad - 
 hue vigent in hac Vrbe infignis fide & pictate viri , 
 / qui 
 
 Epift. Ser 
 ravii . 
 
Part II. a tao^age t^otlg^ Italy. 69 
 
 qui audierunt ex' ore Camerii^ fe iftam hrftoriam^ Chamier, 
 vulgo credit am Jabulofts dtp ut are. Fidi nuper fcrip- 
 tas literal docii & vegeti Jems , tibique & mihi a - 
 tnictjjtmi , Petri Moltnai , qwbusidcm fempcr ftbi 
 ejfe vi.fum affirmabat. 
 
 Penes me funt liter a Sctmuelis Bocharti , quikus d u m 
 j teflatur fibi ejje pro comperto vamtm & fiihtium^ lin. 
 
 quicquid hattenus de ea Jit proditum.- Thus Mon- Bochart. 
 j four Seraviw in a private Letter (though .his Son 
 after his death printed his Letters) to a friend of 
 the fame Religion : And thus you fee, how this 
 Fable, maintained'.highly a long time by the Ad- 
 verfaries of the Roman Church, expired at lalt 
 ! (as all lyes do) and was carried to it’s Grave up- 
 on the (boulders of four French Minilfers *, Blm- 
 del , Chamier ^ du Moulin^ and Bochart, If i have 
 been a little too long in this digreffion you will 
 pardon me. We are all debtors to Troth, and 
 all Men ought to be glad to fee themfdves difa- 
 billed. 
 
 Going out of the little Back-door of this Church, r !* Et P~ : 
 
 I went to fee the BaptiRery of Conftantine the 
 Great, our nrdft noble Country-man, and the firft tine. 
 Emperor, * that ptablickly profefFed Ghriftianity. 
 
 This Baptiilery is built round, and in the center 
 of it in a defcent of four Reps, Rands the very 
 Font, in which the faid Emperor was Baptiz’d by 
 Pope Sylvefier* It’s environed w it h low rails of 
 .Marble, and adorned with ten or twelve great 
 Pillars of Porphiry (the faired in Rome') which 
 bear up the painted Vault over the Font : fa that 
 People Handing about thefe Rails, may fee con- 
 veniently the Baptizing of jews and infidels in the 
 Pit below. Upon the walls of the round Chap- 
 pel are painted in Frtfco the mod memorable a- 
 
 Ee 3 £ti<m 
 
SI ?»0£8§£ Italy. Part II. 
 
 \ 
 
 ftions of Cmfiaruide the Great : as his vifion of 
 the Crofs in the Air, with thefe words above if. 
 
 In hoc figno vimes : his overcoming the Tyrant 
 Maxentm : his Baptifm here by S. Silvefier , his 
 burning the Libels again ft Catholick BiQiops, pre- 
 ferred to him by the Arrians : his killing the 
 wounds of thofe good Billiops in the Council of 
 Nice , who had either their fingers cut off, or 
 one Eye put out by the Tyrants,, 
 
 The Sc ah On the other fide of Sr. John Later ans Church 
 Sanu, (lands the Scala Santa, and the S tntta Sanctorum. 
 The Scala Santa h called from the Stairs twenty 
 eight in all, up which our Saviour was led in 
 his Paflion to Pilate's Houfe. Upon fome cf them ' 
 you fee the places where the precious Blood of 
 our Saviour had fallen, and for that reafon they 
 are covered with little grates of Brafs, which let 
 in Eyes, but keep off Knees : I fay Knees : for 
 none go up thefe holy Stairs otherwife than Kneel- 
 ing, and this out of Reverence to him who often 
 fell upon his Knees as he was d rag’d up and down 
 thefe Stairs. It’s painful enough to go up thefe 
 Stairs upon your knees *, yet I (aw it done hour- 
 ly in the Jubilc-year, by continual flocks of de- 
 vout People, both Men and Women $ of great 
 'Condition as well as of great Devotion. Thefe 
 holy Stairs were fent from Hierufalem to Conftan- 
 \ tine the Great, by his Mother Queen Helen , to- 
 gether with many other Relics kept in St .John 
 Laterals Church. They are of white Marble, 
 and above fix Foot long. 
 
 fk sane U At the head of thefe Stairs (lands the Chappel 
 $<wttorm . c a ]| e d santta Sandorum , becaufe of the holy 
 things kept in it. Hence over the Altar in this 
 Chappel, are written thefe words. 
 
 Non 
 
 
Part II. a wage t&OUgft Italy, j , 
 
 Non eft in toto Sanffior Orhe Locus , 
 
 Upon the Altar is kept the miraculous Pidure 
 of our Saviour, it reprefents him about thirteen 
 years old, and only his half Body. It’s about 
 a Foot and a half long, and its faid to have been . 
 begun by S. Luke, but ended miraculoufiy by an ** 
 Angel. ; others fays that St. Luke having only pre- 
 pared the ground, and before he had drawn one 
 ftroke, fell to his Prayers to beg of God that he 
 might draw his Son right, and rifing up again 
 he found his Pidure already finiflied. Hence 
 Domenico Magri (a learned Antiquary ) is of opi- 
 nion, that this Picture of our Saviour is that very 
 Piduie which Anaftafius Bibliothecarius in the life 
 of Stephen the II, calls Achyropata , that is, made 
 without hands. Round about this Pidure goes Euhfafil 
 a fee of great Jewels, enriching the frame of it. d in verba 
 Under the Altar repofeth the Body of St. Ana- A,hjJop&& 
 ftatius , of whbfe head and Pidure I fpoke above 
 m the Defcription of the Church of this Saint at 
 the Tre Fontane. Here are alfo kept the Heads 
 of St. Agnes , and St. Vraxcdes , with many other 
 precious Relics. Anciently, (as the Records 
 here mention) the Holy Prepuce, or fore-skin of 
 our Saviour was kept here too : but being taken 
 away in the Sack of Rome by one of Bmtbw? s 
 Soldiers, it was left in a Country Town called 
 Calcata , fome fifteen Miles diilant fron? Rome* Cskxt?. 
 by the fame Soldier, who could not reft day nor 
 night, as long as he had that Relick about him. I 
 .once palled by that Town Calcata by chance, and n 6, io* 
 by the civilities of the Lord of the Town, Count 
 of AnguiUara j at whole Houle we were nobly 
 E e 4 entertain’d 
 
7 * 
 
 a cuoyage t^JOUgij Italy. Hut IL 
 
 entertain’d ail night, had the happinefs the next 
 Morning, to fee this precious Relic through the 
 ChryRai Cafe, this Count keeps one Key of it, 
 and the PariPn Prieft the other, without both 
 which it cannot he feen. 
 
 Triclinium Near to the Scala Santa is feen a famous piece 
 Leonti. of Antiquity of ChriRian Rome, called Triclini- 
 um Leonvs : where is feen a Mofaic Pi&ure of our 
 Saviour refufciated, and holding out a Book to 
 his Difciples, in which are written thefe words. 
 Pax vobis , Peace be to you ; .which Picture Leo 
 caufed to be made eight hundred years ago, as an 
 Emblem of his peaceable return again to his Sear, 
 after he had been chafed out by his Enemies. Up- 
 on a Pillar on the Right-hand is painted our Sa- 
 viour fitting upon a Throne, and giving with one 
 hand' the Keys of the Church to St. Peter, and 
 with the other, the Imperial Standard to Conftan- 
 tine the great. Upon the other Pillar on the left 
 hand, is reprefented in Mofaic work alfo, St. 
 Peter fitting in a Chair, and with one hand giving 
 unto Pope Leo the 111, the Papal Role j and with 
 the other the imperial If andard unto Charlemagne , 
 who had reftored this Pope Leo to his Seat again. 
 
 From hence palling again by St. John Laterals 
 Church, I faw firft the Palace of the Pope here, 
 built by the Sextus quintus : then the great Guglia 
 (with Egyptian Hirogliphes figur’d upon it) which 
 had Rood anciently in the Circus Maximus : it’s 
 above a hundred foot high, and was brought from 
 Alexandria to Rome , by Confiantine the great. 
 LaRly in a low Room joyning to the Church, I 
 faw the Statue in Bronze of Henry the IV. of 
 France , fet up here by the Canons of St. John 
 Laterans , for having caufed ten thoufand Crowns 
 
 a 
 
7 ? 
 
 Part II. a dotage tfcjOUg# Italy. 
 
 a year to be reHor’d to this Church, which was 
 due to it in France. 
 
 I looked aifo into the fair Hofpitai which (lands 
 hard by the forefaid Church, and fo well fervM 
 and tended r that many perfons of quality in their 
 Sicknefs defire to be transferred hither, that they 
 may be better looked to, than they can be: at 
 home. Taking the Wall of the old AqUiduU of 
 Claudius along with me. I went to San Stefano 
 Rotondo , (landing upon the Mount Calm too.This 
 Church now belongs to the Seminarifts of the Ger- 
 man College. Upon the round Walls are painted 
 curioufly the Martyrdoms of ancient Martyrs; 
 with the divers Inflruments of the Heathens, 
 wherewith they tormented the poor ChriHians. 
 
 Over againlt this Church Hands the Church of 
 Santa Maria della Navicella , fo called from a lit- 
 tle Hone Ship which Hands before it, being a vow T 
 of certain Boatmen. This Church in ancient Au- 
 thors is called in Dominica , or in Ciriaca, becaufe 
 of a Holy Woman called Ciriaca, in whofe 
 houfe here St. Lawrence diHributed all the Church 
 goods, he, as Deacon, had in his hands, unto the 
 Poor. 
 
 Hard by Hands the Villa of the Duke Matthei , 
 where I favv the Neat -houfe full of curious Statues, 
 and cruHed on the -out fide with rare anticaglie . 
 Among the relt 1 took particular notice of the 
 heads of Brutus and Portia, Man and Wife in 
 one Stone : the Statues of Cleopatra : of Hercu- 
 les: of three little Boys lleeping and hugging one 
 another : the Head of Cicero rarely well cut : the 
 Statue of Marcus Aurelius , a rare table of preci- 
 ous Stones. In another Houfe here (looking to- 
 wards San Sifto) I faw the incomparable Satue of 
 
 Andromeda^ 
 
 
 The Hofpi- 
 Ul of St * 
 John La* 
 terans. 
 
 St. Stefa- 
 no Roton» 
 do. 
 
 St. Mart| 
 in Ndvi- 
 cclti . 
 
 Villa Ma* 
 thei. 
 
i 
 
 74 3 Wage t#?6!$g& Italy. Part It 
 
 The Am- 
 
 pUtbeAtex* 
 
 Rome 
 faded, fix 
 times . 
 
 Vefari in 
 prefa. 
 
 t&ny. 
 
 Andromeda % expofed to the Sea-Monfter, it’s of 
 pure white Marble, and of the Hand of Oliviero \ 
 that other there of Apollo fleaing Marfias, is an 
 excellent piece too, and in white Marble : fo is al- 
 alfo that ef the Satyr plucking a Thorn out of his 
 Foot, The curious Alley, Water-works, Grots, 
 Walks, Wetting-places, and the intricate Laby- 
 rinth, area] very delightfom. 
 
 Descending from' hence I went to the old Am- 
 pr^rAir, ca'Ied now the Colifto , becaufe of a 
 Coloilean flaoie that flood in it. This is one of 
 the rareit pieces of antiquity in Rome \ and though 
 Rome be grown again, by her new Palaces, one 
 of the finefl Cities of Europe , yet her very ruins 
 are finer than her new buildings. And though I 
 am not ignorant how Rome , fince her Ladyfhip 
 govern’d the World, and was at her greatnefs, 
 hath been fix feveral times ruined, and facked, 
 by the envy and avarice of Barbarous Nations, 
 ( Ftfegoths , Wandals , Ernies , Oftrogoths , Tot; l a 
 who fet fire on Rome 1 8 days together, and the 
 Germans under Bourbon ) whofe malice was fo 
 great againft Rome, that of thirty fix Triumphal 
 Arches once in Rome, there remain but four now 
 vifibly appearing } that of ten Therm ce anciently, 
 but two remain any way vifible } that of feven Civ- 
 cos, but one now appears: yet as of fair Ladies, 
 there remain even in their old age, fair refts of 
 comlinefs : fo the very ruines of Rome , which ma- 
 lice could not reach to, nor avarice carry away, 
 are yet fo comely, that they ravilh Ml the be- 
 holders eye with their Beauties, and make good 
 the faying of an ancient Author, that Roma 
 jacens quoque miraculo eft : Rome is a miracle even in 
 its ruines , But to return to the Colifeo \ it’s another 
 
 wonder 
 
Part II. a ©Ot«ge t^Otrg$ Italy. 7 5 
 
 wonder of the world : and I wonder indeed, how 
 fuch prodigious flones could either be laid toge- 
 ther in a building, or being laid together, could 
 fall. V'efpajian began it, but Doniitian finiflied it ; OrnnUCe- 
 and Martial flattered it as a wonder which out-^^ y ^* 
 llript all the wonders of Egypt and its Pyramids, phitbeatro , 
 It was of a prodigious height, as that part of it uvumpre - 
 yet Handing fheweth. The form of it was round cuntti*fa- 
 without, and oval within,and the cutfide of it was mtL J 0< { mtur 
 adorned with the three orders, of pillars, great °^ iS ' 
 arches below, open galleries above, both to walk 
 in, and to let People into the Amphitheater, and 
 out again without crowding, fo that two hundred 
 thoufand people could go in or out in half an 
 hours time, without crowding. Within, it went 
 up from below by fteps of Hone unto the top,and 
 afforded room enough to all that world of people 
 to fit conveniently, and. fee the combatsand fports 
 that were exhibited in the Arena . Anciently the 
 top of it was fet round with flames, and in time 
 of great heats or rains, it was all overfpread with 
 great fails. From its roundif form it got the name 
 of Amphitheater , from feeing on ail fides. Under- 
 neath were the Caves for the wild bealts, out of 
 which they turned them loofe to fight, fometimes 
 againft condemned men, fomedmes againft inno- 
 cent Chriftians.Itfro made thcChriftians be clad in 
 the skins of Bealls; and fo to be expofed to Lyons 
 and Bears. Sometimes alfo Gladiators fought 
 againft Gladiators; and one Gladiator againft 
 twenty others: Nay, the very noble Romans them- 
 felves would now and then fight here publickly, 
 either to fhew fport or valour. And all this was 
 done by the politick Romans , to teach Men not 
 to be afraid of bloodflied and death in time of 
 
 wars, 
 
y6 3 fKOfftge fl&OtlSfJ Italy. Part II. 
 
 wars, with which they had been fb acquainted 
 in time ot peace., 
 
 The old round rubbage of Brick, which is 
 here near the Am\bmmter , was anciently a fine 
 Mew Su - Fountain called Meta Sudans y ferving for the ufe 
 d&ns* of thofe that came to the Iports here. It was all 
 faced with Marble, and had a Statue of Jupiter 
 of brafs upon it. 
 
 TbeTrwm. Hard by ftands the Triumphal Arch of Con- 
 phai Arch ftantine the great. It’sall of Marble,witha world 
 of Con- of curious Statues anciently, but now head lefs/ 
 
 tkeGreat anc ® wlt ^ b*^ or * es m bajfi rilievi. It was ece&ed 
 e rm * to him in memory of his Vi&ory over the Ty- 
 rant Maxentius , as to the freer of the City, and 
 Founder of publick quiet. As the words here 
 import. Liber atari Vrbts , Fundatori Quictvs , 
 
 From hence I went to the Church of St. John 
 Su G'rego- and Paul , and thence to St. Gregorics Church, 
 ries # which anciently had been his houfe. They fhew 
 ChmK us y et t j )e pi ace ant [ t he Table where this Holy 
 Man, in recompence of his charitable hofpitality 
 to the poor, deferved to have an Angel, and the 
 Lord of Angels for his Guefis, he treated daily 
 here twelve poor Men in honour of the twelve 
 Apoftles. In one of the Ghappels, you fee a fine 
 Statue of white Marble, of S. Gregory in his 
 Pontifical Robes y it was ere&ed to his honour by 
 Cardinal Baronm y who was a devout admirer of 
 him. 
 
 In the Garden belonging to the Monaftery of 
 St. Gregory , there is to be feen a Cave in which l 
 faw upon the wall fome old painting of the high- 
 eft times of Pagan Rome : Pitiful ftuff, yet eon- 
 fiderable for its ancientnefs. 
 
 From 
 
Part II. % <8*0?age t&OUgfc Italy. 77 
 
 From hence I went to the Baths or Therm#, of Antemius 
 the Emperor Antonius^ looking more like a Town, ** Bltku 
 than a bathing-place. Indeed Ammianus MarceUi- 
 nus out-throws me, and calls thefe, and the other 
 Therm £ in Rome , Lavacra m modum Provincial 
 rum exftrutta: Bathing-places built like Provinces* 
 
 And judge whether of us hath moiereafon, by 
 that which we read in the Exceptis Olymptodori, 
 where it’s faid, that thefe baths of Antonins had a 
 thoufand fix hundred feats of polifhed marble j for 
 as many perfons to fit and bathe in a-part : nay, 
 fome of thofe bathing-places were paved with 
 filver, and were adorned fo curioufly with filver 
 pipes for the water, with Statues, Figures, and 
 precious Stones, that Seneca cries out ; Eo deiicia - 
 rum vfjpimus % ut nifigemmas calcar e nolumus } We 
 are come to that delicacy that we fcorn to tread 
 upon any thing but Jewels : Now thefe Baths 
 ferve only for the Roman Seminaries to recreate 
 in. 
 
 Returning from hence between the Mount A- 
 ventin , and the Mount Palatm , I faw the' place 
 where the Circus Maximus Hood. This was the circus 
 greateft of ail the Circus in Rome, as its name Maximus . . 
 fhews. It was begun by Tarquinim Prifcus , but ^ 
 afterwards much augmented by Julius Ccefar and 
 Auguftus. It was three Hades long, and four acres 
 wide (the Roman Hade was 625 foot, or 125 pa- 
 ces ) at laft it was adorned with Hatues and pillars 
 by Trajan and Heliogabalus . A hundred and fifty 
 thoufand men could fit conveniently in the three 
 open Galleries } one of which was for the Sena- 
 tors, the fecond for the Gentlemen, and the third l 
 for the common People. The two great Obelicks, to 
 wit,that before Rorta del Populo, and that before S. 
 
 John 
 
7 s 
 
 The Empe- 
 rors Ta~ 
 lace. 
 
 Templum 
 
 fm. 
 
 St. Geor- 
 ges Church 
 
 The Vela - 
 prum. 
 
 Italy. Part IL 
 
 John Later am flood in it. Under this building were 
 many vaulted Caves, called in Latin Fornices, where 
 lewd women proflituted themfelvesformony,and 
 fo from thefe Fornices cams the word Fornication . 
 
 Going from hence to S .Georges Church*! faw on 
 my right hand, the goodly ruins of the Emperors 
 Palace, called Palazzo Maggiore . It poffeffed al- 
 moft all the Palatin hill, as the ruinslhew. State- 
 ly ruins l confefs : but ruins, and imperial ruins. 
 And here I could not but wonder to fee the Pa- 
 lace of the perfecuting Emperors ruined quite, and 
 the Church of the poor Filherman Handing Hill* 
 more glorious than ever. 
 
 Before I came to S. Georges Church, I flept into 
 S, Anaftaftus Church, which was anciently the 
 Temple of Neptune y and from thence to the old 
 fquare Temple, commonly held to be the Tem- 
 ple of Janus Quadrtforis : and with fome reafcn, 
 becaufe it hath tour doors in it, and twelve Ni- 
 ches upon every fide of the fquare out-fide. The 
 four doors reprefented the four Seafons of the 
 year *, the twelve niches,the twelve months of the 
 year *, yet others will have it to have been only an 
 Arch, or Portia, or a Lodge j and while they 
 difputeit, Pil go on to S. Georges Church } hard 
 by to which Church is joyned an old Arch curi- 
 oufly carved in marble* which was ere&ed here, 
 by the Merchants or Gnldfmiths, to the Empe- 
 rors Severus , and M. Aurelius. 
 
 Near unto this Church of S. George came anci- 
 ently the Water of Tybcr ^ and this water or 
 creek of the River was called f r elabrwn y becaufe 
 men puffed over the River here by Boat, and 
 fometime with a little. fail, when the wind flood 
 fair. 
 
 c 
 
 f 
 
 { 
 
 From 
 
79 
 
 From hence I went to the round Church of S. 
 
 Theodoro , {landing in the Foro Boar to. This was Forum Bo- 
 anciently the Temple of Romulus and Remus , be- &*****__ 
 caufe it was here that thofe two Brothers were 
 expofed, and nourifhed by a (he-wolf, which 
 found them here. 
 
 Not far from hence I flept into the Kofpital of 
 our Lady of Confolation. This was once the 
 Temple of V^efta. And here it was that the Veftal The Tempt 
 Virgins finftituted by Nutna) kept the Eternal «/Vefta-. 
 fire j the extinguifhing of which was -held by the 
 fuperftitious heathens, fatal to the flate^and. there- 
 fore they committed the keeping of this fire to 
 Virgins of great repute and honour. Thefe Vir~ 7le VeftaJ 
 gins were to be io years in learning their profef- Virgins, 
 lion, io years more in exercifing it, and other io 
 years more in teaching it to others. And for this 
 reafon they had great Priviiedges given them. For N uma# 
 if in going up and down the City, they met by 
 chance s a criminal man going to be executed, they 
 had power to free him. If any of thefe Veftals, 
 forgetting herfelfhad wronged her virginity, they 
 would not, out of reverence to her Frofeflion, 
 lay violent hands on her by the common Execu- 
 tioner, but they buried her alive in a low vault 
 made for that purpofe. 
 
 From hence 1 entred into the Campo Vacctno Cm ^ 
 and prefently fell upon three Pillars of admirable Vdccino. 
 ftfu&urej they belonged to the Temple of Ju- The Temple 
 piter Stator built by Romulus j the occafion was^J u P lter 
 this, Romulus in a battel again ft the Sabins fee ing° tacor ’ 
 his men give back, made a vow prefently to Jit* 
 piter , that if he would flop their fight and make 
 them ftand to it, he would build him a Temple *, 
 
 Sifie fecdamfugam, fa id he to Jupiter \ the Men 
 flood, and the Temple was built to Jupiter Stator , 
 
 who 
 
8o 
 
 a 3»0fage tl&Otlgf) Italy. Part Ili 
 
 who made den (land. But this Jupiter Stator 
 could not make his own Temple Hand ; for it’s 
 now fo ruin’d, that Antiquaries are icarce fare 
 where it Hood. 
 
 Clofe to thefe three Pillars Hands the Church 
 of Santa Maria Liber atrice at the foot of the P ala- 
 tin Hill. Why this Church is fo called, both a 
 long writing in the Church, and Baronins in his 
 Annals, tell at length. 
 
 JcUn.i 24 Near to this Church Hood the Lacus Curtii , a 
 
 ixcm Cur - ninking puddle which annoy’d the Romans much* 
 tu% and which the Oracle allured was not to be Hope 
 up but by caRing into it the moH precious thing 
 in Rome, Hereupon the Ladies threw in their 
 ben Jewels; and the Noblemen every one what he 
 had the moH precious, but all in vain. At laH 
 Curtins , a brave young Nobleman, thinking that 
 there was nothing more pleafant than a gallant 
 Man ; mounting on Horfe-back in a brave Equi- 
 page, in light of all the People, jump’d into this 
 See Tit Lake alive, as a Victim devoted to his Coun- 
 Livi U s ^ tries Service, and the hole hereupon clofed. I 
 others, confefs a brave Cavalier is a precious jewel indeed: 
 and I remember that a Roman Lady having Ihew- 
 ed her Jewels to Cornelia the Mother of theGVtfc- 
 chi , and having dehred her to fhew alfo her Jew* 
 els, ihe called for her two young Sons (brave 
 The fine fi youths,) and faid, here Madam are my Jewels: 
 fends, and in my opinion, Curtins was fomewhat Vain- 
 glorious, to think himfelftobe thebraveH Man in 
 the City. If the Votes and Judgment of all the 
 People had declar’d him to be fo fas they did 
 afterwards declare Scipio Nafiita to be the beH 
 Man of all the Romans ; and the Matrons declared 
 Sulpitia to tie the chaHeH Matron of her timejf 
 then he might have devoted himfelf more freely 
 for his Countries fafety. Going 
 
Part II. aS»0J8ge%0tlJ$ Italy. 81 
 
 Going on from hence on the Right-hand ft ill, 
 
 I came to the door of Farnefes Garden. This Farnefes 
 Garden Hands upon the Mount Palatin , where 
 anciently the Emperors had their Palace, which 
 took up all the upper part of this Hill, but not 
 | all the Skirts of it j for I find that the Goddefs 
 Feaver, and the Goddefs Viriplaca had their 
 Temples here, and Catalin and Cicero their hou- 
 fes. Entring into this Garden I found fome pretty 
 Water-works and grotts at the Entrance, and fine 
 high Walks above, overlooking the place where 
 the Circus- Maximus flood anciently. The Scho- 
 lars of the Englifh College in Rome have a piece 
 of this hill for their Vinea and recreation placej ’ 
 to breath on upon days of Vacancy. 
 
 Following ftill my right hand, I came to the 
 Arch of Titus : a Triumphal Arch, ere&ed to Ar & 
 him upon his viSory over the Jewsi Hence you 
 fee here engraven in Mezzo rilievo the faid Empe- 
 ror in a Triumphal Chariot, and on the other the 
 Holy Candleftick of the Temple of FJierufakm , 
 the Ark of the Alliance, and the Tables of the 
 Law, which this Emperor brought with him af- 
 ter his taking of Hierufafem, to grace his Tri- 
 umph: This is the mod* ancient Triumphal 
 
 Arch in Romc^ and it flood in the Via Sacra which 
 went under it. 
 
 Wheeling about the Camp Vacciiw^ ftill on 
 my right hand, I came to the Church of Sanfta 
 Francefca Romany bfherwife called Santa Maria Tk chunk 
 nuova. Here I faw the neat Tomb of that Saint of Su 
 in Brafs gilt, made at't he cod of Pope Innocent 
 the X. Here’s alfo cut in white Marble, and 1 ' r 
 Handing. upon an Altar the Hiftory of the Pope’s 
 returning ' again to 'Rome from Avignon: l law 
 
 t { ■ rffo’ 
 
 » 
 
$ ilOfage Italy. Part IL 
 
 alfo here a rare Suit of Hangings belonging to 
 this Churchy and given by the Sifter of Pope In - 
 nocent the X. 
 
 The Temple . Hard by ftands the Temple of Peace, that 
 ° s mc ' is , fome remnants of that Temple. It was once 
 the moft noble of all the Temples fas the pil- 
 lar before St. Mary Majors great Door,which be- 
 longed to this Temple, fheweth) it was 200 Foot 
 large, and 300 long: but now little figns of its 
 Beauty remain : Wars and time defacing the 
 monuments of Peace. It was built by Fejfoa/ian 
 who plac’d in it the fpoils of the Temple of Hie * 
 rujalem , brought to Rome by Titus . 
 
 Behind this Temple ftands a neat Garden, be- 
 longing once to Cardinal Pio y where I faw neat 
 Water- works. It’s now fold to another Mafter. 
 The Church Going on ftill in the Campo Faccino on the right 
 of i't.Cof- hand, I came to the Round Church of St. Cofmo , 
 an( * ^ >amiano i anciently the Temple of C aft or 
 mmo * and Pollux : becaule the Romans having feea two 
 Men upon fweating Hories, that told them news 
 of a Battel won by their Conlul, and fo vanilh’d, 
 
 * they imagin’d them to be Caftor and Pollux, and 
 thereupon decreed them this Temple. The 
 Mofaick work in the roof of the Tribune deferves 
 your particular attention, for the Symbolical Fi- 
 gures fake. 
 
 Going on ftill, I came to the Church of St. 
 St, Loren* Lorenz.o in Miranda . It was once a Temple de- 
 land dicated to Fauftina the Emprefs, by her Husband 
 Antonius . Poor Man ! he could not make her 
 
 Meffia in an honeft Woman in her Life-time, and yet he 
 viu M. would needs make her a Goddefs after her Death. 
 
 The Porch of this Church is ftately ftill, by rea- 
 nC^iu f° n lti S reat garble Pillars, 
 
 ' A 
 
 ( 
 
 i 
 c 
 t 
 t 
 
 t 
 
 ii 
 ( 
 
 [ 
 
 ( 
 
 C 
 
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 fl 
 
 if 
 
 m 
 
 A 
 
 io 
 
 D 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
Part II. a tuopage tfttOUJ# Italy. Sj 
 
 A little further Hands the Church of St. Jlndri- An- 
 ano, anciently dedicated to Saturn , who firffc dnano * 
 taught the Italians to make Money, and there- 
 fore the Romans plac’d their *Airarium Publicum , 
 the pubiick Treafury in this Temple, and had 
 their Mint hard by it. 
 
 St. Martinas Church follows the next ; and in 
 a low Chappel neatly adorned, I faw her Tomb* 
 here flood anciently the Temple of Mars the 
 Revenger. 
 
 Before this Church Hands the Triumphal Arch ^ ^ 
 of Septimius Severus rarely cut with figures in um pbal 
 marble in mezjLo relievo. Half of it is buried un- Arch of 
 der ground, the other half is fore battered with Sevcrus. 
 the air. Who would think the Air and the Earth 
 to be devouring Elements, as well as the Fire and 
 the Water? But why do I accufe the Air, when 
 it’s only time (which taketh a pride to triumph 
 our Triumphs) that hath battered this Trium- 
 phal Arch, and moultered even marble ? 
 
 A little higher on the Hill-fide Hands the little 
 Church of St. Jofepb y where I faw in the low S* .Jofeph. 
 Grot underneath, the Prifon called anciently 
 Tulliamm, into which Prifon St. Peter and St. Paul rhe 
 were fhut up. I defcended into the low Dungeon mm% 
 where St. Peter baptiz’d Procejfus and Martinia- 
 nus , his two Keepers, with divers others. The 
 Fountain of Water that fprung up miraculoufly 
 for that holy fun&ion is Hill feen there in the bot- 
 tom of that Dungeon. 
 
 Many other brave buildings Hood anciently in UeCmU 
 this Foro Romany worth remembring, as the Co- 
 mitium , or pubiick place of Affembly ; fo called 
 a Coeundo , it being the great Hall of JuHice, in 
 j which was erefted a large Tribunal, where the 
 
 F f 2 Prater 
 
84 a ©O^age ttftOlfgft Italy, Part II. 
 
 Prtftor ("out Lord Chief J u$ice ) fat in' an Ivory 
 Chair, called Celia Curulvs^ and miniftred Ju- 
 ftice to the People.ln this Comitium flood the fla- 
 , tue of Horatlus Codes j and in the Corners of it, 
 thofe of Pythagoras and Alcibia'des. In this Foro 
 alfo flood the Rojlra ( a great Pulpit made of the 
 Roftra or brazen fnouts of the Ships won from 
 the Antiates ) where Orators ufed to Plead, and 
 where Tully ThunderM. Behind the Roftra flood 
 Romulus his Tomb, and before the Roftra the 
 Tomb of Fauftus , the Fofter Father of Romulus. 
 
 Mounting up from hence to the Capitol by the 
 Coach- way, I faw upon the fide of the Hill, the 
 Pillars that .belong’d once to the Temple of Con~ 
 cord built by Camillus , and not far from hence, 
 three other pillars of neat Fabrick which belong- 
 ed to the Temple of Jupiter Tonans , Thundering 
 Jupiter , built there by Auguftus Cafar^ after he 
 had efcaped a Thunder-clap whick kill’d his Ut- 
 ter-man clofe by him. 
 
 fbeCapitoU Arriving at the Capitol, I was glad to fee that 
 place fo famous in the Roman Story. Its name 
 of Capitol came from the Head of a Man (Caput 
 in Fatin') found under ground when they firfl 
 laid the Foundation here of the Temple of Jupi- 
 ter Capitolinus . Juftus Lypftus , as if he had been 
 the Godfather of that Man whofe Head was 
 found here, faith, that his name was Tolus^ 
 and that from Caput Toll came Capitolium . This 
 Head found here portended, that Rome ffiould 
 one day be the head of the World. And this 
 title is fo univerfally known to belong to Rome % 
 that all Authors affirm it, and every petty Arti- 
 lan in Rome will tell you fo:though in falfe Latin y 
 as one did me, when hearing me praife Rome 9 
 
 
 
Part II. awase t^oug^ Italy. 8$ 
 
 and thinking that I did it not enough, cried out to 
 me half in Italian , and half in Latin , Cafpitra, 
 
 Signore, Roma eft: capus mundi which laying 
 made me both fmile and fay to my felf, that fuch 
 a Head as this Fellows, found now under ground, 
 would portend the ruin of the Latin Tongue. 
 
 i wentfirft to the higheft part of that Hill, cal- 
 led anciently Rapes Tarpeia , it looks down upon the 'types Tar* 
 Theater of MarceUus , and is nothing fo high a P eia * 
 
 Hill as I conceiv’d ’when \ fir It read Liyy. For 
 1 expe&ed to have found here a Hill at lead like 
 that in India called Dori^wbicb Curtins defcribes, 
 
 Munfter paints out, and Hercules could not take \ 
 blit coming to it, I found it to be a Hill of that 
 ealie afcent, that I had ridden up higher in Savoy 
 and Swifferland . 
 
 2. Then returning the fame way again to the TheZquc* 
 Piazza of the Capitol, I faw there the Famous 
 Equeftm. St atm of Marcus Aurelius, once . gilt ^relTiS* 
 over, but now appearing to be plain Brafs. This 
 
 is the Nobleft Statue in ^ the World v and I was 
 going to fay, the nobled Statue Living ; for it 
 feems almod to Live and Breath by the Work- 
 man's Art : It is noble alfo, bscaufe it reprefents 
 a Man. fo Noble as Marcus Aurelius , who was a 
 double Emperor, being both a great Emperor, 
 and a great Philofopher. 
 
 Hard by this Equeftris Statue are feen two Co- 
 lojfean Statues, pouring out two Rivers, the one 
 reprefenting Nilus , the other Tygrvs . Over them 
 (lands a Statue of Rome fomeching like Pallas , 
 her Face is of white Marble, her Garments of 
 Porphyry. 
 
 3. I faw the Trophies of Marius cut anciently JJ* Tro* 
 in Stone in honour of that great General, who 
 
 F f 3 from 
 
%6 at»Ol?aget$jOU&fj Italy. PartIL 
 
 from a common Souldier, came by his Warlike 
 Vertue, to be feven times Conful. 
 
 4 . 1 viewed the two great Statues of Conftantin 
 the Great in white Marble, with the Horfes. 
 the Mil- 5- * ^ aw t ^ ie MilUaruritj that is, a little pillar 
 liarun* " °f Stone, with a great round Brazen Ball upon it. 
 This Pillar ftood anciently in the Foro Romano 
 before St. Adrian's Church, and it was ere&ed by * 
 Auguftus Crtfar. It was called Milliarum , becaufc 
 from it the Romans counted the Miles that were 
 from Rome to every great City of Italy , or of the 
 Empire,and the firft Mile diftant from this Pillar, 
 was called primus ab orbe Lapvs , and fo of the reft. 
 The Con - Then entring into the Confervatorio \ that 
 
 fcrvdtorio . is the Palace of the Confervatori , or Sena- 
 tors, I faw there the Statues of Julius Cajar 
 and Auguftus Cafar. Then in the little Court 
 1 faw marked up upon the out-wall in a Marble 
 Stone, the Roman Meafures, as their Canna , 
 Palmo , &c. (as we have ail meafur’d by the Ell, 
 and Yard,) that all . Merchants may know 
 where to find whether his Meafure be Lawful 
 and Juft, or no. Then the Foot, Hand, Thighs 
 and Head, in Marble fcattered here and there 
 in this Court, yet all looking as if they had be- 
 longed to the great Colojfus of Apollo , made by 
 the command of Lucullus. Then the rare Sta- 
 tue of a Lyon tearing a Horfe. The Tomb of 
 Mamta and Alexander Severus her Son, with the 
 Rape of the Sabines upon it in a Bajfo Relievo . 
 The little Egyptian Idol fet high up over this 
 Tomb. The head of the Emperor Commodus in 
 Brafs, with a hand of the fame. 
 
 Colovna 7 . Hard by the Stair-foot as you mount up to 
 p.oftrm. the Chambers, ftands the Colonna Rofirata , a 
 
 ~ marble 
 
Part IL a borage % 0 Ug& Italy. 87 
 
 marble Pillar fome twelve foot high, decked with 
 Stems of Ships cut in Marble, and flicking out of 
 the Pillar, with an lnfcription in the Bafts below 
 in fcurvy old Latin . I found it fpoke of a Sea- 
 Vi&ory won over the Carthaginians , and of D«- 
 illius ; and I car’d for no more, becaufe Livy in 
 better Latin tells me the reft: to wit, that it was 
 Dulius that of all the Romans got the firft Naval 
 Victory $ and then I eafily concluded, that this 
 Pillar was efe&ed to him for that Service. It’s 
 almoft as hard a thing to conftruc this old Latin 9 
 as to have won that Victory } and therefore Pie 
 leave the words to Petrus Cioconius a fkgmatick 
 Spaniard to comment upon. Yet I learnt out of 
 this Left-handed Latin , this obfervation, that the 
 brave Romans of the higheft times, cared more to 
 do well, than tofpeak well \ and that the Roman 
 Common-wealth was turned towards her decline,, 
 when fine Language was in vogue. 
 
 3 . Hard by this Pillar Hand mounted two lit- 
 tle quarter Cannons: a poor Arcenal for the Ro- 
 wan Senators now a-days. 
 
 9. Then mounting up fome ten Steps, I came 
 into a little Court, whofe Walls are all encrufted 
 over with four excellent pieces of Marcus Au- M. /W<r- 
 rclus his Triumph cut in Marble. In one of them bus bh 
 he triumpheth in his open Chariot : in another Tnm t*' 
 he Sacrificeth : in another he giveth Largefles to 
 the People : in the fourth he receiveth the Pre- 
 fent> of the Romans . They are all fo well cut, 
 that you doubt whether it be the Emperor or 
 the Sculptors that triumphs here. Indeed the 
 Emperor’s Chariot hath got new Wheels of late, 
 and his Horfes new Shoos and Feet, elfe all is 
 old* 
 
 F f 4 to. Then 
 
8S 3 flUOfSge t^OUgl i Italy. Part II. 
 
 10. Then going up the Stairs higher* I faw an 
 old Plate of Brafs nailed up, in which the Roman 
 
 leges De- Laws of the ten Tables were written; good 
 iemTabu- Laws, but few. And I was glad to fee them 
 mum * yet kept ; if that be to keep Laws, to keep them 
 nailed faffc to the Wall. 
 
 1 1. Then entring into the Chambers and great 
 Hall, I faw the Statues of Alexander Farnefe Duke 
 of Parma , of M. Antonius Colonna , the Pope’s 
 General in the Battel of Lepanto : and of Don 
 John of Auftria Gencralijjimo. I faw upon the walls 
 painted in Frefco , the rape of the Sabins , the duel 
 of the Tergemini Fratres, three Brothers agai-nft 
 three Brothers, Horatii againfi; Cwiatii : Scevola 
 holding his hand over the burning Coals : Codes 
 defending, the Bridge alone againfi: an Army of 
 Men : Scipio , and Hannibal with their feveral 
 Armies, fo rarely painted by Pietro Perugino , that 
 the Romans now are in love with Hannibal Then 
 the Pifture of the firft Conful Brutus commanding 
 the Death of his own Son : that of the Tarqui- 
 nii : that of the conquering of the Sabines , &f. 
 All pieces as bold as the very a&ions they repit- 
 fent. Here alfo in the other Chambers, 1 faw 
 forae fine Statues, as that of Caius Marias ; tint 
 of Hercules in Brafs being but yet a Lad ; tlat 
 of Junius Brutus in Brafs ; the heads in Marble of 
 Diogenes , Plato, Socrates : the Statues of Cjffro, 
 Virgil^ and Plato ; the Brazen Statue of the 
 Wolf that gave Suck to Romulus and Rems. 
 But the belt Statue here is that of the young Man 
 picking a Thorn out of his Foot. It’s only of 
 Brafs, but worth its weight in Gold. The Story 
 of it is this. A young Foot- poll: bringing Letters 
 of Angular Importance unto the Senate 3 and prick- 
 
Fart II. a ©OFSge ttyOttglj Italy. 89 
 
 ing his Foot as he ran, would not (lay to pick 
 out the Thorn \ but haftning to Rome with all 
 fpeed, delivered his Letters in full Senate prodi- 
 gioufly foon, as it appeared by their Dates. But 
 then clapping himfelf down upon the ground be- 
 fore them all, he began to pick out the Thorn, 
 in the poiture you fee him here. The Senate fee- 
 ing the hafte he had . made, and the pain he 
 had endured, decreed prefently, that his Statue 
 in that pofture, fhould be ere&ed • in the Ca- 
 pitol. 
 
 Thus the old Romans not having then recom- 
 pences enough for well deferving men, or elfe 
 not willing to recompence them other wife, 
 perfwaded men, that no recompence was like 
 to that of a flatue in the Capitol, or to walk up 
 and down the flreets with a Crown of Laurel , or 
 Oaken Leaves upon their heads. Poor Fools ! 
 
 Was a Crown of leaves fuch an honour, when 
 even Bawdy-houfes and Privies, faith Tertullian y x ertU | # de 
 were crowned too ? Or was it fuch a folid Coma. * 
 honour to have a ftatue in the Capitol, when Mil it. 
 Geefe and Wolfs were honoured fo too ? But 
 quod rarum , ch arum eft. And,as Alexander the s eneca j 
 Great hearing that the Corinthians would make j. de Be- 
 him a Citizen of their Town, fcorned it at firft : vefic. 
 but after he had been allured that they never 
 offered that honour to any man but to Hercules 
 and him, he was well pleafed with that offer : 
 fo the rarity of having a Statue in the Capitol 
 being an honour granted to few, and thofe well 
 deferving men, made men think it the highefc 
 of recompences. Among thofe few, were Scipid 7 
 for having overcome Antiochus : tAHmilius Lepidus 
 for having while he was but yet a Boy, freed 
 : 1 “"* 7 " : a 
 
9 ° 
 
 a «*Of«ge Italy, Part IX. 
 
 a Roman Citizen in a battel : Metelius for faving 
 the Palladium out of the burning Temple of 
 Vefta : Cornelia for having furnilhed Corn to the 
 People in a dearth, out of her own moneys^ 
 and fome few others. 
 
 Having thus feen the Capitol, I went into the 
 Anc*li. Noble Church of Ara Coeli , which is joyning to 
 the Capitol upon the fame hill, an.d built in the 
 fame place where anciently flood the Temple 
 of Jupiter Capitolinus , or Jupiter Fcretrius. Here 
 it was the Sybille (hewed unto Auguftus Cafar , at 
 the birth of our Saviour, that a greater Lord 
 than he was born ; whereupon Auguftus forbad, 
 that any man fhould call him Lord from that 
 time forward. In this Church is the Tomb of 
 S. Helen, Mother of Conftantin the Great. 
 
 Defcending from hence by the marble flairs, 
 which are a hundred in alJ, and all fo large, 
 that twelve men in a breaft may go up at once *, 
 Tkcjefuits | came t 0 the JeJuits Church and Houfe called 
 chunk t j le Ca j* a p r0 fcjja. The Church is neat and 
 capacious, the Chappels well painted, and the 
 Ornaments in the Veftry very rich. Under 
 the Altar where S. Ignatius his Pi&ure is, lyes 
 the body of that Saint, Founder of the Order 
 of the Jefuits. Near the high Altar on the Gof- 
 pel fide is the Tomb of Cardinal Bellarmin . In 
 the Houfe of thefe Fathers I faw the Chamber of 
 St. Ignatius , now turned into a Chappel, and a 
 fair Library. 
 
 Palling from hence, I flept into a Palace of 
 s. Marks S. Mark, belonging to the State of Venice, and 
 VtUv, the lodging place always of the Venetian Ambaffa* 
 dors refiding in the Court of Rome . This Pa- 
 lace* as alfo that of the Cancellaria 9 and that of 
 
 Farnefe , 
 
 
Fart II. a < 0 O?age tftOUIft Italy. 91 
 
 Farnefe, are faid to have been built of the Hones 
 that were taken from the great Amphitheater } 
 and yet a great part of it remains Hill \ and I 
 believe, as much as would make three more fuch 
 Palaces. 
 
 From St. Marks Palace I went towards the 
 Mount Qmrinal , now called Monte Cavello , and 
 as I went, palled through that part of the Town, 
 which anciently was called Forum Trajani , and 
 there faw that which Trajan himfelf never faw, 
 to wit, the wonderful Pillar of white Marble e- 
 reded there to Trajan , and therefore called Co- CoJofWA 
 lonna T r ajana , but never feen by him : For he Trajani. 
 died in foreign expeditions, returning from Per- 
 fia without ever feeing it. This Pillar is made of 
 four and twenty great Hones of Marble, in which 
 are carved the exploits of Trajan , efpecially in 
 his Wars againft the Dacians. It’s a hundred 
 twenty eight foot high, without its bafts, which 
 is twelve foot high. Within it there are a 
 hundred fourfeore and five flairs, which deliver 
 you up to the top of it, and there are forty little 
 Windows, which let in light enough for you to 
 go up. On the top of all this Pillar were anci- 
 ently buried the alhes of Trajan the Emperor : 
 
 But Sixtus Quintus caufed, in place of them, the 
 Statue in Brafs gilt of St. Peter to be fet up here. 
 Heretofore all the bads of it was buried under 
 ground in the ruins, but now they have digged 
 about it and cleared it } yet by this we may fee 
 how much the flreets of Rome are higher than 
 they were} Rome now being built upon the ru- 
 bles of Rome . 
 
 From hence going up the hill, I came to the The T*U:e 
 
 Palace and Garden of Aldobrandim. The Houfe °f 
 
 branduu. 
 
92 
 
 a wage t&otigfj teafy- mm, 
 
 is but little, yet neatly funuihed with Statues and 
 Pidures. Some whereof are thefe : An old Pi- 
 dure made in the time of the Pagans , reprefent- 
 inga Marriage after the old Romans falhion. I 
 take this to be the ancienteft Pidure in Rome ^ and 
 the rarity of it is fo great, that Cavalier Poz,zo (a 
 brave Gentleman, and a great Firtwfo^g&t leave to 
 copy it out, and this copy is to be feen in the houfe 
 of his Brother, among other rare curiofities, near 
 St. Andrea deUa Valle . Next after this I was fliown 
 in the forefaid Palace, the true Pidure of Mar- 
 tin Luther : A rare St. Sebaftian in the Chappel, 
 of RaphaePs hand : Upon the Stairs a Statue of a 
 Man hanging by the hands, with great ttonesat 
 his feet, weighing, him down : A torment much 
 ufed by the Heathens, and pradifed by them up- 
 on Chrittians: With a world of other Pidures 
 and Statues in the Chambers. 
 
 7 be Palace From hence I went to Cardinal Mandarin ? s 
 
 of Mazza- Palace, and there faw in the Garden the famous 
 rini * Pidure of the Aurora , made by Guido Rheni , fa- 
 mous over all Rome . In the Court of this Pa- 
 lace, I faw the belt riding Matters of Rome teach 
 young Gentlemen to ride the great Horfe : But 
 I found them here far fhort of the Matters in 
 France , both for good Horfes, and good Scho- 
 lars, and graceful riding. In the fame Court, 
 in the Summer Evenings, they play at Ballon , a 
 manly exercife much ufed in Italy, and far more 
 gentile than our rude Foot-ball Sport. 
 
 The Tope's Near to this Palace ftand the Pope’s Stables, 
 Stables, where I faw all the Genets that had been prefent- 
 ed to the Pope, fince his creation, by the King 
 of Spain for the Kingdom of Naples ; every 
 year one, with a Eurfe of Gold. The other 
 . " Horfes 
 
9J 
 
 Horfes here were only Coach- Horfes ; for when 
 the Pope goes any whither abroad upon publick 
 Ceremony, the Cardinals and Prelates upon Mules, 
 and the Noble- ±Men of Rome upon their own Hor- 
 fes, wait upon him : and when he goes out of 
 Town, his own Horfe-guards attend him. 
 
 From hence I was prefently in the Piazza of 
 Montecavallo , where I faw the two Famous Manteca* 
 Horfes in Marble, with each one a Man holding vaiip, 
 him } they were lent to Nero for a Prefent by 
 Tiridates King of Armenia . In the Pedeftal of 
 
 thefe ftatues are written, under the one of them. 
 
 Opus Pbidite : under the other, Opus Vraxiielh. 
 
 It’s Paid that thefe two Horfes and Men vyere 
 made by thefe two ancient Sculptors of Greece , to 
 reprefent Bucephalus , and Alexander the Great. 
 However thefe Horfes give name to this Hill j 
 and whereas it was formerly called Mom Quir ma- 
 lts y it 5 s now called Montecavallo. Upon this Hill 
 flood anciently the Therm re Conftantiniana , or 
 Baths of C'onftantin the great, of which there 
 are fcen fome remnants in the garden of Colonna , 
 which lies behind the wall of this Piazza . 
 
 Over againft the forefaid Horfes Hands the 
 Pope’s Palace where he ordinarily lives in Sum- 
 mer. The houfe is a noble ilru&ure, and the p™™' 
 rooms [lately : but I faw nothing rare in them 
 but themfelves. The Garden of this Houfe is 
 curious for fine Walks, ftore of Fountains, and 
 the cool Grotta under great fhady Trees, where 
 there are fine Water- works, and an Organ play- 
 ing without any fingers to touch it. Over a- 
 gainft the back-door of this Garden flands the 
 Novitiate of the Jefuits, with the neat new 
 i Church, and fine Gardens. 
 
 Returning 
 
94 $ mtm t%m$h Ualy. Part II. 
 
 s . Sflvc* Returning from hence, I ilept into the Church 
 
 of * b °^t. fylvefteri over againfl: the Palace of Maz.- 
 
 b “ rc * marina belonging to the Theattns ; and there faw 
 ■ the Tomb of Cardinal Beritivoglio, the modern 
 LiDy of Italy. The Garden here (landing in a fair 
 Propped, is very pleafant and delightfome, 
 Defcending from hence, by a private Street, I 
 St. Aga- went to St. Agatha* s Church in the Saburra near 
 the foot of the Quirinal hill. The Body of St. 
 m 0 Agatha lies under the Altar. Before the door of 
 this Church are fome ancient Statues of fome lit- 
 tle Boys, in the habit of a Pratexta , a habit be- 
 longing to Noblemens Children. 
 
 From hence, pafling by the Church of Madon - 
 na del monte (a Church of great Devotion) 1 
 St. PeterV went up the Hill to St. Peters ad vincula \ where 
 ad viruu* x faw the famous Statue of Mofes fitting. It’s of 
 white Marble, and adorning the Tomb of Jultui 
 SecundusAt's enough to tell you that it was made 
 by Michael Angelo , and admir’d by all Sculptors. 
 Here’s near unto the door of the Church, an 
 Altar with the Statue of St. Sebaftian , attheere- 
 fting of which, the Plague ceafed in Rome , faith 
 Baron.^. Baronius . In the Sacrifly of this Church I faw 
 the Chains in which St. Peter was fetter’d in Pri- 
 fon } and which make this Church to be called 
 St. Peter ad vincula. 
 
 Sr. Mar- St. Martino in monte follows next, and is a 
 Moate neat Church now. In a Cave below there were 
 two Councils held by St. Silvejler in the primitive 
 times of Perfection, as the words upon the wall 
 as you defeend into the Cave, and Baronius tefli- 
 fie. It’s Paid that in this place was exercifed the 
 £rft publick Profelfion of Chriftian Religion. 
 
 Then 
 
Fart II. agiotage tymsft Italy. • 95 
 
 Then to the Church of St. Praxedcs, where St. Prax- 
 I faw the Pillar at which our Saviour was cdes * 
 whipp’d. It’s alow round Pillar of fpeckled rhe 
 Marble. It Hands within a little grate of Iron, at *>bid 
 The old writing over the door of that Chappel, our Savi • 
 tells you,that it was brought to Rome from Hieru - our . w fj 
 fdlern four Hundred years ago, by Cardinal Co- 
 lonna . In the mid ft of the Church is a Well 
 (now covered) where St. Praxedes hid the Relics 
 and Bodies of Martyrs. In another Chappel I faw 
 the Pidure of the defcent of our Saviour from the 
 Crofs, made by Guido. In the Balconies above 
 in the Pillars, 1 faw, by fpecial favour, many 
 curious Relics. 
 
 From hence I went to St. Mary Majors Church, Sma 
 fo called, becaufe it is the greateft of all the ria Mag-* 
 Churches of our L«ady in Rome. It’s built upon giorc* 
 the Monte Efauilitio , and upon the place which 
 was covered miraculoufly with Snow upon the 
 fifth of Auguft. The Hiftory of it is known by 
 the Solemn Feafi in the Kalender, called SanQa 
 Maria ad Nivesj and it is exprefled in the old Mo- 
 faick Pidures, which are let here in the Wall 
 over the Pillars that bear up the roof. The molt 
 remarkable things I faw here were thefe. 
 
 i. The Tomb of the Founder of this Church, 
 
 Pdtritius , whofe Body lies in a Tomb of Porphy- 
 ry near the great door. 
 
 X. The noble gilt Roof, or Sojfita , which 
 was gilt with the firft Gold that came out of 
 the Indies in Alexander the Vltbs time, whofe 
 Arms are fet up in this Roof. 
 
 3 . The Mofaick Pidures which run along this* 
 Churcb,eontain.ing the Hiftory. of the old and new’ 
 
 Teftamcnt* 
 
9 6 3 t&oug?) it%. Part if. 
 
 Teftament, and the Hiftory of the building of 
 this Church, 
 
 4 . The , high Altar under which repofeth the 
 Body of St. Mathias the Apoftle, whofe Head 
 is expofed upon the Altar in a Chryftal upon his 
 day, 
 
 5 . The Tomb of an EmbalTador of Congo to 
 Paulus V. It’s over againft the Statue in Brafs, 
 of Paulus V. near the Sacrifty. 
 
 6 . The little back Court there, with the Eccho 
 in the Well, which anfwers you indeed, but like 
 a fharp Scold, too quick and Ihort. 
 
 The Chap- 7* The rare Chappel of Sixtus V. made by 
 pel of Six- bominico Fontana , which co ft Seven Hundred 
 tus V. Thoufand Crowns. The molt famous A&ions 
 of Sixtus Quintus , and of Pius Quintus , who 
 made Sixtus Cardinal, are carved in white Mar- 
 s tm Hie- ble round about the Chappel. St. Hkromh allies 
 rom’s are buried here in a fide Altar on the left hand : 
 
 Tomb. and where fhould we look for St. Hierome , but 
 
 The Holy near our Saviour’s Crib ? which is here enchafed t 
 crib of our in Chryftal in a low Chappel, under the high 
 Saviour. Altar of this Chappel. It’s (hewn publickly up- i 
 on Ohriftmas day. The Tabernacle of Brafs, held ii 
 up by four Angels of Brafs with one hand, and 
 holding each one a Torch in the other hand, is 
 moll Stately, 
 
 The chap- 8 . Over againft this Chappel Hands the Chap- 
 j pel of Pau- pel of Paulus V. much like the other in all things,* 
 lus V. except that the chief Altar Hands not in the mid- 
 dle, but at the end of it. This Altar is a very 
 neat contrivance, and of as rich materials. Four 
 great Pillars of Jafper pollilh’d, adorned with 
 Capitels and Bafes of Brafs gilt, hold up the 
 back of this Altar* which is all of Laps Lazuli, 
 
 Of 
 
Part II. SI tSJOtmSfc tfjJOUgfj Italy. 97 
 
 or Oriental blue Azure Stone 7 in the midft of 
 which is a little Nicbio in the Wall, where the 
 Pi&ure of our Blefled Lady, with our Saviour Aptlur* 
 in her Arms, made by St. Luke 7 is conferv’d and 0 / 0lir \ 
 feen. This Nicbio is furrounded with a row of r 2 
 rich precious Stones of great value, fet thick a- Luke? 
 bout it - 9 and fhut up with two little half-doors* 
 qf two whole Agates, each of them two foot long, 
 and a Foot large. Theodoras Lcttor an ancient 
 Author makes mention of this pidure, and faith* 
 Pulcheritf, Eudocia Imaginem rnatris Cbrijli , qmm 
 Lucas Apoftolus pinxerat , Hterefolymis mi fit 7 That Theodor 
 is, Eudocia fent unto Pulcberia from Hierufalem ln 
 the pidureof the Mother ofChrift which Euke^a^ 1 * 
 the Apoftle had painted. ThePidure it felf is rum. 
 fo old, and plac’d fo high,that it’s hard to perceive 
 the lineaments of the Face unlefs you fee it with 
 a wax Taper at the end of a long Pole^ as l did* 
 
 |n fine, this was the Pidure which St. Gregory 
 the Great,a Thouftncj years ago, carried in Pro? 
 ceffion upon Eafter day, when he faw over the 
 Moles Adriani , an Angel fheathiqg his Sword in 
 fign of the ceafing of the Plague. The roof or 
 little Cupola of this Cbappel is painted by the hand 
 pf Guido Rbeni of Bologna. The fide Walls of 
 this Chappei are of white Marble cut in Mei m 
 relievo , and containing the chief adions of Cle- 
 ment vIII. and Paulus V. whofe flames are $lfo 
 here in white Marble. 
 
 9. Without the Church ftand two great Pillars 
 pt each end of it: the one an Egyptian Qugiia cut 
 with Hieroglyphics \ the other a Roman Pillar 
 taken out of the Ruins of the Temple of Peace, 
 frvhiyjj is of a prodigious height, with the Sfatus 
 
 Q g ' of 
 
9 8 
 
 Sf. Vito 
 CS> Mode- 
 
 fto. 
 
 1 he Arch of 
 Galienus. 
 
 ^.Eufebio. 
 
 Santa Cro- 
 ce in Hie- 
 rufalem. 
 
 -See Baro- 
 nius in his 
 Annals t 
 
 3 <!!*01?age Italy. Part H. 
 
 of our Saviour and our Lady upon it, in Brafs 
 gilt. 
 
 From St. Mary Majors I went to the Church 
 of St. Vito and Modefto. It’s built near the ruins 
 of the Triumphal-arch of Galienus the Emperor. 
 The great Keys that are nailed to the top of that 
 forefaid Arch, were the Keys of the City Tufcu- 
 lum (now called Frefcate ) and hungup here in me- 
 mory of a Vi&ory won over that Town, under 
 Honorius the V. almoft five hundred years ago. 
 
 From hence I went to the Church of St. Eufe- 
 bio , built upon the ruins of the Thermae of the 
 Emperor Gordiano , and his Palace, whofe Court 
 had Fifty Pillars on every fide. Near unto this 
 Church were found the Trophies of Marius , 
 which I fpoke of above in the Capitol. 
 
 Continuing on my way, I came at lafl: to San - 
 ta Croce in Jerufalem. It’s one of the feven Chur- 
 ches of Rome , and built by the Emperor Conftan- 
 tine the great. It ftands near the Walls of the 
 Town in the end of the Mount Callus . Hard by 
 it appear fome Prints of the Temple of Venus 
 and Cupid , which the faid Emperor ruined, to 
 build a Church in the place of them, in honour 
 of the Holy Crofs, and fo repair the injury which 
 the Infidels had done to the Holy Crofs in Hie - 
 rufalem, by placing the Statue of Venus upon 
 Mount Calvary , and Arriving to blot out the name 
 of Mont Calvarie , and bring in that of Mont 
 Venerie . This Church is called Santa Croce In 
 Hierufalem , becaufe of the Earth of Mount Cal- 
 varie , which was brought from Hierufalem 9 and 
 laid here. The things I obferved here, were thefe. 
 
 t . The Painting in the Tribune, or roof of the 
 Choir, containing the hiftory of the Exaltation of 
 
 the 
 
Fart II. a tWOtflge tfc w& Italy, 9? 
 
 the Holy Crofs. It looks like the Painting of 
 Pietro Perugino 7 or fome of his Scholars •, and it 
 was thought fine work, before Raphael raifed 
 Painting to a greater height, 
 
 2. The Chappel below, where the Holy Earth 
 fent by St. Helen from Hierufakm 7 to her Son 
 Conflantin the Emperor,' was put. 
 
 3. The Relics in the Sacrifly above, to wit f 
 three pieces of the Holy Crofs, one of the Nails 
 of the Crofs of our Saviour *, two Thorns of the 
 Holy Crown of Thorns , a great piece of the 
 Title of the Holy Crofs^ a finger of St. Thomas 
 the Apoftie 7 and one of the thirty pieces of Alo- 
 ney for which our Saviour was fold. 
 
 Not far from hence Hands the Church of San - i’.Bibian*, 
 ta Bibiana. This Church Hands in the place cal- 
 led anciently Vrfa Pileata , becaufe of the Statue 
 of a Bear with a Hat on, which Hood there. This 
 place is alio famous for the Church-yards fake, 
 or Cameterium 7 called inter duas lauros. Here is 
 fome good Painting in this Church of Campdli 
 and Pietro Cortonefe . The Statue of the Saint is 
 of Semin? s hand . 
 
 From hence J found a way that led me to the 
 Gate of St. Laurence , through which I went to $ L au . 
 the Church of that Saint called San Laurenz.0 r ence his 
 furori delle mura 7 by reafon of divers others built Chunk ? 
 in honour of that Saint within the Wails. This 
 Church was built by Conftantme too, ard enrich- 
 ed by him, with many Prefects and Ornaments. 
 
 It was built upon the Camtterwm Sand# Ciriac<e 7 
 where that Holy Woman ufed to bury the Bo- 
 dies of the Holy Martyrs, in Hands in the Ft# 
 Tiburtina 7 and is one of the feven Churches of 
 Ramtp and one of the fi ve Patriarchal Churches 9 
 
 Gg ? and 
 
 nf 
 
i oo a wage tftougi) Italy. Part II. 
 and therefore is not titular of any Cardinal. The 
 things that I faw here, were thefe. 
 
 1. The Tomb of St. Laurence , under the high 
 Altar. 
 
 2. Behind the high Altar, the Stone upon 
 which the Gridiron flood, upon which St. Lau- 
 rence was broiled. It’s covered with a great glafs 
 through which you fee it. 
 
 3.1n the roof of this Church I found thefe words 
 cut in great Letters of wood, Quam clarificata efi 
 Hierofolyma Stephano , tam iUufiris fad a efi Roma 
 Laurentio , taken out of S. Leo in his Sermon 
 upon the Feaft of S. Laurence . 
 
 4. The Catacombes under this Church, where 
 many Saints Bodies were buried anciently. 
 
 Returning again into the Town, Iftept into 
 y. Antonio St. Antonies Church and Hofpital, near to St. Ma- 
 ry Majors 7 before which Church ftands a Pillar 
 with a Crofs upon it, ereded here upon the con- 
 verfion of Henry the IV. of France. 
 
 Paffing behind St. Mary Majors , I went to San- 
 s p u den- ta Ludentianas Church, ftanding in the ancient 
 tiana. ftreet called Ficus Patricius. This Church was 
 built upon the place where the houfe of Pudens 
 a Senator and Father of S t.Pudentiana lived. And 
 here it was that St. Peter 7 at his firft coming to 
 Rome lodged, having Converted this Pudens and 
 ~ . his two Daughters, Pudentiana and Praxedcs . 
 
 Here I faw thefe things. 
 
 i . The dry Well into which St. Pudentiana put 
 many Relics of Martyrs to conferve them. 1 
 looked into it with a lighted Taper let down in 
 a ftring *, and faw many curious Relics desked up 
 in the fide of the wall. 
 
 ' j . v. 
 
Part 17. a 3»0?age Italy. i o i 
 
 2. The wooden Altar upon which St. Peter faid 
 Mafs at his being here. 
 
 3. The two Marble Statues of our Saviour and 
 St. Peter . They are both excellently well cut, 
 and perchance by rare Olivieri . 
 
 4. The neat Chappel of the Caetani , with the 
 back of the Altar in white Marble, curioufly cut 
 by Olivieri in a bajfo rilievo , reprefenting the a- 
 doration of the Magi. 
 
 Near the high Altar, is the Pi&ure of the 
 fo'rementioned Senator Pudens , in his Senators 
 Robes. • . 
 
 From hence I went to St. Lorenzo in Panifpcr - St. Lan- 
 na. Here it was that St. Laurence was broiled up- ren ^ tn 
 on a Gridiron, by the command of the Emperor ^ nif I >er * 
 Deems , whofe Palace flood where this Church 
 now ftands. Upon the wall of this Church is 
 painted the Martyrdom of St. Laurence in Frefco . 
 
 Here lie buried the Bodies of St. Bridget a 
 Holy Virgin of Scotland \ and of the Cardinal 
 Sir let us. 
 
 Going from hence by a little unfrequented 
 flreet, running under the foot of MontecavaUo , 
 
 I came to the Church of St. Vttalvs, which ftands ^ Vita I is. ' 
 joined to the Garden of the Jefuits Novitiat. It’s 
 laid, that the Temple of Quirinus or Romulus 
 fcood here, and that it was here that Proculus 
 fwore he faw Romulus after his death, who bid 
 him go tell the Romans , that he would be ado- 
 red by them under the name of Quirinus : When 
 indeed it was thought that the Senators had torn 
 him in pieces in the Senate-Houfe, and carried Pfc- 
 away under their Gowns, every one a piece of ca ch * 
 him ; and finding the People to mutter much at 
 his not appearing, had got this Proculus to depofe 
 
 Gg 5 a * 
 
ios i mt 8get$*£lttS$ Italy, PartIL 
 
 as above; and io quieted the People, who are 
 as eafily pacified again with a vain tale, as ftir- 
 red up with a fond rumour. 
 
 QuatroForj • From hence I went to the Quatro Fontanc , 
 
 Hnc * which Hand at the head of four ftreets which 
 meet here. Thele Fountains ifiue out from four 
 Statues which lie here in cumbent poftures ; and 
 they were made here by Lepidus. 
 
 Then following that fair ftreet, I went to San* 
 Sma Ma* ta Maria della Fittoria , fo called from the Victo- 
 ria della r y won at the Battel of Prague. The Flags and 
 Vittoria. Cornets taken in this Battel, are fet round about 
 the Church. In one of the Flags over the door, 
 
 I found Crofs Keys* Cardinals Caps, Miters and 
 Priefts corner’d Caps, all turned topfy turvy, 
 with this fingle motto, Extirpentur. Here are ve- 
 ry neat Chappels, efpecially that on the left hand* 
 where is feen the reprefentation of S.Terefa woun-* 
 ded by a Seraphin. It’s an admirable piece of 
 Bernini. In the Convent you fee painted in a Sa- 
 la , the Battel of Prague , and ^n the Sacrifty, a 
 Sepulcher of our Saviour all of Ivory, extraor- 
 dinarily well wrought. 
 
 Before the door of theaforefaid Church, Hands 
 the great Fountain, called Fontana felice, where 
 the Aquedudt of Sixtus Quintus (who before his 
 aflumption to Ecclefiaftical Dignities, was called 
 in his Monaftery Fra Felice) disburdeneth it felf 
 into a great ftone Bafin, and from thence is car- 
 ried into divers parts of the Town. 
 the Gtr- From hence I went to the garden of Montalto , 
 m* *t2 It w ^ c k * s hard by. This is one of the belt gardens 
 1 ont * in Rome, and therefore deferves well to be feen. 
 
 At your entrance into it, you fee a round table 
 of a blewifh ftone, upon which the Arms of the 
 
 Houfe 
 
I 
 
 Part II. a flllopage tf»OU$> Italy. ioj 
 
 Houfe of Montalto are engraven, at which, while 
 you gaze curioufly and near at hand, the Gardiner, 
 by preiling his foot upon a low Iron Pump, un- 
 der the Table, prefleth out water on all fides of 
 that round Table, and welcometh the Hrangers 
 | that come to fee his Garden. 
 
 Then mounting into the little Palace near the 
 door, I fa v divers good Pidures and Statues, of 
 the Houfe of Montalto , and others. There alfo I 
 faw a wooden Organ, Pipes and all, and yet of no 
 ungrateful found. 
 
 There alfo I faw the Pidure of David killing 
 j Goliath : It turns upon a frame, and fhews you 
 both the fore-hde of thofe combatants, and their 
 backfidestoo, which other Pidures do not. Hare 
 are curious Urns j the true Bufio of Sixtus V. a 
 Tabernacle of rich Hones. There is a Pidure 
 in Hones of feveral colours, which held one way, 
 reprefents nothing but a bunch of Herbs'*, but 
 held up another way, it reprefents a Mans head 
 and face. In fine, here is in this little Palace, 
 a neat Library in a cool room, over the door of 
 which, on the infide, are written thefe words 
 Mcdicina animi ? as if Libraries were nothing 
 but Phyfick-gardens for the mind. 
 
 Defending again into the Garden, I faw Hore 
 of wetting-fports, and water-works, moH curL 
 bully contrived, and moH Hately walks. From 
 hence we went to the Carthuftans Church, which 
 is hard^by. This Church and MonaHery are 
 built upon the Ruins of the Baths of Diocletian . 
 
 For this cruel Emperor with his alfociate Maxi - £j an l ™;' 
 mian. , condemned Forty Thoufand ChriHians to 
 work in this Building, for the fpace of fifteen 
 years together, and afterwards condemned many 
 
 .... G g 4 Thoufands 
 
104 a ttioyage tifeofis# Italy. Part «, 
 
 Thoufands of them to death for their Religion, 
 Thus Men work for Tyrants. But fuch is the 
 wonderful providence of God* Churches ofChri- 
 ftians now ftand where Chriftians were condem- 
 ned to death and torments. The Blood of thefe 
 Martyrs was but the feed of Chriftians, and when 
 Diocletian condemned Chriftians to work here, 
 methinks he did but bid them go lay the foun- 
 dation of a Monaftery for Carthufians , and of a j 
 Chiirch for the worlhip of that God he fo much 
 perfecuted. 
 
 The p6pe*s Having feen this Church and Monaftery, I 
 pmmes. went to fee the Pope’s Granaries, vaft buildings, 
 
 two ftories high, and always full of Wheat for 1 
 the prefent ufe of the whole City. A world of 
 Officers and Ovei fters belong to thefe Granaries, 
 and are always turning over, and keeping the vaft 
 heaps pf Wheat from fpoiling and corrupting * 
 
 By flicking up Canes in the heaps of Wheat* 
 they can tell, finelling at the end of thefe Canes, 
 whether the Wheat begin to moiften and cor- 
 rupt, or no, and accordingly give order either 
 to turn it and air it, or prefently to give it out 
 to the Bakers : Thefe Granaries were alfo built 
 upon the ruins of Diocletians Baths. 
 
 The Church From thefe Granaries I went to the Town Gate 
 
 sto Ag-ftot far off, called Porta Pia , and from thence 
 - cs * (freight along for a good mile, to St. Agnefes 
 Church. Under the high Altar repofcth the 
 body of that tender Virgin, who being as inno* 
 cent as her name, fuffered Martyrdom at thir- 
 teen, and triumphed over the World before fhe 
 could know it. 
 
 Clofe by ftands the Church of S .Conftantia, a<- 
 flother holy primitive Virgin. Here I faw the 
 
 Famous 
 
Part It a Italy. 
 
 Famous Tomb, commonly called Bacchus his 
 Tomb, but falfely, feeing it was the Tomb of S. 
 Conftantia. It’s a vaft area , or Cheft of one Por- 
 phyry ftone, above half a Foot thick, and fix 
 Foot long. It’s all cut on the outfide with a bajfo 
 rilievo in a molt admirable manner. 
 
 From hence crofting over the Fields, I went 
 to Burghefis Villa and garden, which are a little 
 half mile from the Town. This is the greateft 
 Villa that’s about Rome . For here you have (lore 
 of walks, both open and clofe, Filh-ponds, vaft 
 Cages for Birds,thicketsof Trees, ftore of Foun* 
 tains, a Park of Deer, a world of Fruit-trees, 
 Statues of all fizes, Banquetting places, Grotta* s, 
 Wetting-fports, and a ftately Palace adorned 
 with fo many rare Statues and Pi&ures, that their 
 Names make a Book in Ottavo , which I refer 
 you to. As for the Palace it felf, it’s compafled 
 on both fides, by a fair femi-circle of Statues,, 
 which Hand before the two doors, like old Pend- 
 tes and Lares, The Wall of the Houfe is over- 
 crufted with a world of j4nticallie, or old Mar* 
 ble-pieces of Antiquity : As that of Curtins fpur- 
 ring into the Vorago: That of Europa hurried a- 
 way by Jupiter , become a Bull, with a world of 
 fuch like Fables. Entring into the houfe, I law 
 divers Rooms full of Curiofities. 
 
 i. In the great Hall ftands the Statue of Diana 
 in Oriental Alabafter, which was once a Deity 
 adored by Auguftus Caefiar, Here alfo hang two 
 great Pidures, the one reprefenting a Cavalcata 
 when the Pope goeth abroad in Ceremony ; the 
 other a Cavalcata , when the great Turk goeth 
 abroad in Pomp. 
 
 i°5 
 
 Burghefis 
 Villa . 
 
 2. In 
 
SL Me 
 
 Part II. 
 
 2. In another Room Hands the Statue of one 
 of the famous Gladiators anciently, who fought 
 alone againft twenty others, and being wounded 
 to death, ftems to threaten with his looks all his 
 Beholders. It’s terribly well made. 
 
 3. In one of the Chambers above, is the head, 
 in Profile^ of Alexander the great, cut in Marble. 
 
 4. In another Room below I faw the Statue 
 of Seneca bleeding to death. It’s of a black ftone 
 like Jeat, than which nothing can be blacker but 
 the crimes of Nero the Magifiricide , v/ho put this 
 rare man, his Mailer, to death. 
 
 5. - The Statue alfo of Daphne and Apollo in A- 
 labaltar , Apollo running after Daphne , and Ihe 
 IlifFening into a Tree, being overtaken, her Fin- 
 gers fhooting into Branches, and her Toes into 
 Roots, are admirably well done. It mull be 
 BerniniH work. 
 
 6. The Statue alfo of £neas carrying his old 
 Father Anchifes upon his Back, out of burning 
 Troy. The young Man is brawny and ftrong^ 
 the old man is made lean and weak : As alfo the 
 young man fhews a great deal of tender affection 
 towards his Father, and the Father as much fear 
 in his looks. 
 
 7. The Statue alfo of David flinging at ( 7 a- 
 liah. He frowns fo terribly as he flings, that you 
 would fwear he intends to fright him with his 
 looks, and then kill him with his fling. Thefe 
 two lalb Statues are alfo of the hand of Cavalier 
 Bernini. 
 
 8. In another Chamber above, l faw the great 
 Chair which locketh fall any Man that fittetb 
 down in it. It’s faid to be a Chair of Revenge,or 
 a Trap-chair for an Enemy : But methinks it 
 
 would 
 
 6 
 
 it 
 
 ■< 
 
 th 
 
 tu 
 
 Ir 
 
 tu 
 
 ra 
 
 fi 
 
 i] 
 
 w 
 
 t 
 
 ' ( 
 
 ( 
 
 
Part II. a wage ttftWftto Italy. 107 
 
 would be a fine Cftair for a reftlefs Student \ or 
 > a Gofiiping Wife. 
 
 I faw here alfo fome toys for young men 5 as 
 < the Clock, which being wound up, playeth a 
 S tuneable Dance, and little Men and Women of 
 j Iron painted handfomely, dance in a ring to that 
 ? tune, by vertue of the Wheels. The Fools Pa- 
 radife reprefenting firft a fine green Garden of 
 Flowers, then a Palace, and laftiy a neat Libra- 
 ry, is made alfo to recreate Children. 
 
 Returning from this E'tlla by the back door 
 which leadeth to the Porta del Populo , I ftept in- 
 to the Church of Madonna del Populo . This Madonnn 
 Church hath been much beautified of late by Pope delPofuto 
 Alexander the VII. becaufe of fome of his Ance- 
 ftors buried here. Here I faw the famous ftatue 
 of Jonas , made by the command of Raphael Vr- 
 hin , who lhewed the Sculptors of his time how 
 perfectly he poffeffed the Theory of Sculpture, 
 if he would but have dirtied his Fingers with 
 that dirty Art. In a Chappel near the Gofpel 
 fide of the high Altar, I faw a good Pi&ure of 
 the hand of Guido Rheni . Where now the high 
 
 Altar Hands, flood anciently the Tomb of Nero . 
 
 Going on from hence on the left hand, to- 
 wards the Piaz&adi Spagna, I firft pa fled by the 
 great Guglia , or Egyptian Pyramid, carved all o- 
 ver with Hieroglyphs. It’s looked upon by three 
 ftreets, and feen afar off. Then paffing a little 
 further, I came to the Greek Church and College, ^ke Greek 
 where, upon certain days, I faw their Ceremonies, Co e &* 
 and heard the Mafs fungin Greek, after the Greek 
 manner. Thefe Grecians are in union with the 
 Roman Church $ and have a Seminary of young 
 
 Students 
 
i o8 $ tffcotlg# Italy, Part IL 
 
 Students of their Country, maintained by the 
 Pope to return to their Country in Million. 
 
 Mounting from hence on the left hand to the 
 top of the Hill, by the Coach way, I went into 
 The Villa of the Villa of the great Duke, where I faw the 
 neat Gardens with Fountains, two or three huge 
 Veflels of Marble, and ftore of Statues, both in 
 the Palace, and in the long Gallery. That of 
 the two Gladiators wreftling : That of the Clown 
 whetting his Sithe, and hearing the Confpirators 
 of Cataline fpeaking of their Confpiracy, which 
 he difcovered, is one of the belt pieces of Sculp- 
 ture in Rome . That of Cupid and Venus are ad- 
 mirable, From the Chamber-window of this 
 Palace, you have a perfed light of Rome under 
 you. In the Garden there is a little Guglia , with 
 many other Curiolities. 
 
 Going out from this Garden, by the back door, 
 
 I crofted over the Street, and was prefently at 
 vitu Lu~ the back door allb of the Villa Lndovifta , belong- 
 iovifia, ing to the Prince Ludovifto . This Villa Itands in 
 an excellent air, being feated high. There are two 
 Houfes in this Garden, and both furnifhed with 
 exquifite Rarities. That which Hands near this 
 back door, afforded me thefe curiofities. A rare 
 ftejjrfl Pidure of the Blelfed Virgin Mary, made by 
 Muft. Guido Rheni . It’s the bell Pidure of her that e- 
 
 ver I faw. A Rich Cabinet, with the Pidure of 
 Pope Gregory XV. in a Cameo , and other rich 
 Stones adorning it. A neat little Clofet full of 
 divers rarities \ as a true Hydra's skin with feven 
 necks, a petrified fungus: The true Pidure of 
 Francis the firll of France , with that alfo of his 
 Phylician, both made by Laurenzo Vincij and 
 efteemed rare pieces, with many other little cu- 
 
 riolitks. 
 
Fart II. SI 5»02age t&OUgl} Italy. 
 
 riofities. In another Room, the heads in white 
 marble, of Gregory the XV. and his Nephew 
 Cardinal Ludovifto. A Chamber full of curious 
 Glafles. Upon the Stairs a little Cupid fo loaden 
 with a Quiver of Arrows, that another little Cu- 
 pid is forced to hold them up behind him. But 
 that which is the raoft rare thing in this Villa, or 
 perchance in any in Rome , is the incomparable 
 bedftead which is feen in one of the Chambers of 
 this Palace. It’s all of precious ftones, and va- 
 lued at an Hundred Thoufand Crowns. The four 
 Bed-pofts are all of Oriental polifhed Jafper, 
 The reft of it is of other rich Stones *, but the 
 head of it exceeds far the reft, for Riches and 
 Art, efpecially the midft of it, where the Arms 
 of the Family of Ludovifio , are curioufly fet in 
 rich Stones of feveral colours, according to the 
 colours of the Coat of Arms. Here you have 
 bunches of Grapes, fome red, fome white, but 
 all of rich Stones. Here are vaft udmetbyfts, one 
 fquare, another round in pyramidal form. Here 
 Phaeton in his Chariot in a Cameo, with the 
 Wheels of his Chariot of precious Stones ; and 
 a world of fuch rich work, which makes his Bed- 
 ftead the nonplus of art and magnificence. I do 
 not know for all that, why Beds fhould be made 
 of Stones, though precious ones? If it be for the 
 Pi incefs of this houfe to be brought to Bed in, 
 it portends unto her a hard labour \ if to lodge 
 in it the everlafting fame of the greatuefs of this 
 Family, it is a vain labour:, feeing precious 
 ftones will moulter away in time, as other ftones 
 do. 
 
 Omnia 
 
' ■ t j V M 
 
 no a Wage Italy. Part II 
 
 Omnia mortalia mortalitati damnata. 
 
 lift 
 
 I;!r 
 
 For my part, the beft ufe I know for it, is, to 
 lay the petrified Man in, whom we jfhall find 
 prefently in the other Palace of this Filla: Beds 
 of ftone are fitteft for Men of ftone. 
 
 Hard by this houfe ftand the Fountains and 
 Water- works, which, with their fhady Trees, 
 correct the hotteft Beams of the Italian Sun, and 
 afford unto the owner of this Pitta, Rain and 
 Clouds of his own at will, even in June and 
 July. 
 
 the fmnd From hence croffing through the Garden, I 
 Houfe, went to the other houfe that ftandsin it, where 
 I was fhewn, in the feveral Chambers, many cu- 
 rious things \ As, two brave old Gladiators in 
 ftone, fitting down : Four rare pieces of Guido 
 Rheni , to wit, a St. Francis , a Lucretia , a Judith , 
 and a Converfion of St. Paul : Divers curious 
 Pictures of the hand of Titian , Raphael^ Michel 
 Angelo , Carraccio and others : A rare head in 
 marble of Scipio Affricanus : The head of Sene- 
 
 ca in bujlo , of great value. Cicero's head alfo in 
 
 bufto : Some rich Tables of inlaid ftones ; the 
 little Boys in Ivory greater than I thought it pof- 
 fible for Ivory to have furnilhed : two rare Apol- 
 lo's in white marble} the Oracle of Porphyry which 
 fpake once : the ftatue of an old Gladiator dying of 
 his wounds/iin a great fquare box lined with Vel- 
 vet. I faw the body of a petrified man, that is, 
 A Petri - a man turned into ftone. One piece of the leg 
 ficd Mat!. fb ro k en to allure an Embaflador, doubting of 
 the verity of the thingj (hewed me plainly both 
 the Bone and the Stone crufted over it. The 
 
 head 
 
1 Fart II. &SOfSge t&?CUglj Italy. ru 
 
 head and the other parts lie jumbled up together 
 in the Box. If you ask me why they do not put 
 this Body into Tome Tomb to bury it, I anfwer 
 ) you, that it needs no other Tomb than this cruft 
 ! of Stone. Indeed I ne^er faw a body lb neatly 
 i intombed as this: You would fwear that this 
 Tomb is a pur zjujlaucorps rather than a Tomb : 
 
 ! It fits as dole as if a Taylor had made it. And 
 
 , that you may not think it an impoflible thing that 
 
 menfhouid be thus petrified, I mu ft mind you 
 what Ortelius faith, that upon the Mountains fi- Ortelius 
 tuated in the Weftern parts of Tartary are feen in Tab. 
 figures of Men, Cammels, Sheep and other Beafts, Geypapb. 
 which by an admirable Metamorphofis, were 
 changed into Stones, about three hundred years 
 ago. And A riftotle himfelf fpeaks of men petri- Ariflot. 
 fied in the hollow cave of a Mountain near Per- lib. dc an. 
 gamut. In another Chamber Hands a great Clock $°* 
 of bra ft, gilt, as tall as a man, and it Hands in- 
 deed ; for I think it hath not gone fince it went 
 out of Germany to Rome. They tell us pretty 
 things that this Clock did, when it was young \ 
 but now it cannot fa much as ftir its hand : Thus 
 time calhiers at laft its own Heralds *, and break- 
 eth the Clocks by which we know her. In ano- 
 ther Chamber of this houfe I law a new Statue 
 in pure white Marble, of the rape of Profirpna : 
 
 It’s of the hand of Bernini . In another Room 1 
 faw the rare Statue of Cejlius Marius , killing 
 himfelf with his dagger, upon fight of his dead 
 Daughter, who had killed her felf for fear of 
 falling into the hands of a 'luftful Emperor. De- 
 fending from hence into a long low Gallery of 
 Statues, I found here fome very good ones as 
 that of Junius Brutus , ofj tiero, of Domiuan^ &c. 
 
ir X 12 
 
 But the beft thing I faw there was the head of 
 Olympias (Mother of Alexander the Great) in a 
 bajfo rilievo , and in a frame. 
 
 The c<ipn- . Going out of this Filla by the great door be- 
 iWS * hind the Capucins, I flepftmto the Church of the 
 ^ laid Capucins , and faw there in the fecond Chap- 
 pel on the left hand the Tomb of Santo Felice , 
 a Lay* brother of this Order, famous all Rome 
 over for his known SanSity. Here lies alfo bu- 
 ried Cardinal Antonio Barberino , brother to Pope 
 Vrban the VIII. otherwife called Cardinal Sant y 
 Onofrio, who having been long a Capucin , was 
 made Cardinal by his Brothers exprefs com- 
 mand ; and being Cardinal, lived Hill a Capucin 
 in the efteem of all that knew him. His humi- 
 lity would not fo much as let his name be fet up- 
 on his Tomb-ftone \ but inHead of it, and his 
 other Titles, I found only thefe words, hie jacet 
 umbra , cinis, nihil . This Cardinal, and Cardi- 
 nal Mazat , made by Clement the VIII. are all the 
 Cardinals that the Capucins order hath had. 
 
 Over againH the Capucins Hands the Palace 
 Barberino. Q f ^ p am jjy 0 f Barberini poffeffed now by the 
 Prince of Paleftrina of that Family, this is one 
 of the noblefl Palaces in Rome , for its Hately fi- 
 xation upon an hills fide for the two neat Hair- 
 cafes } the noble Painting in the roof of the great 
 Hall by Pietro di Cartona ^ the world of Statues 
 and Pi&ures in the Gallery - 7 the rare fequens of 
 Chambers, one going into another j the double 
 appartiment , each capable to lodge any King in, 
 and each rarely furnifhed in fine, for the rare 
 Library of Cardinal Francefco Barberino . 
 
 Defcending from hence towards the Minims 
 of Trinita di Monte 7 I flept into a little Church 
 
 pf 
 
Part II. a nopage tl>JQUg!) Italy. 1 1 j 
 
 of Spani/h Auguftins , called Santo Jldefonfo, which SJUeforfy 
 I cannot pafs by without taking notice of; be- 
 caufe I think no body elfe doth, it is fo little ; yet 
 having (fefcribed tire greateft Church of Rowe TheUiJl. 
 ("St. Peters’) fo exactly ; l cannot but fay fome- Church in 
 thing of the lead Church in Rome : Dwarfs are 
 Men as well as Gyants, and though this Church 
 may feem rather to be a map or model of a 
 Church, than 5 a true Church ; yet feeing it hath 
 not only all the lineamfents, features, and meen 
 of a Church, but alfo all the noble parts of a 
 Church, as High Altars, Side Chappels, Cupola, 
 
 Quire, &c.' I fear not to call it a Church, tho^ 
 for bignefs, it would not -make the little finger of 
 Sk Peters . 
 
 From hence I went (freight on to the Minims Church 
 of Trinit a di Monte , belonging to Prance, and St. °L 
 Francis of Paula 0 s Order. This Convent is the mtCf> 
 bed feated of any in Rome, and one of theiiobled, 
 being founded by King Lewis the XI. of France , 
 overlooking all Rome , and looked upon recipro- 
 cally by the bed places in Rome. In the Church 
 1 faw divers good pieces, as the Affumption of 
 our Lady by Zuccary , the Pi&ure of the taking 
 down of our Saviour from the Crofs by Raphael ; 
 the Pidhire of our Saviour’s appearing fo St. Ma- 
 ry Magdalen , by Julio Romano Raphael's Scholar, 
 and imitating very much in this Picture Raphael's 
 colours. See in the dormitory of this Gonvent the 
 curious perfpe&ive of S. Francis of Paula , and a 
 rare Sun Dial ingenioufly contrived. 
 
 Defending from hence into the Piazza di Spag- ~ 
 na I faw the Fountain of the dip, whichtfn fum« *P a 8w* 
 mer nights they let overflow, to cool the Piazza 
 md the neighbouring ftreets. In this Piazza (lands 
 
 fill tilt 
 
1 14 a mopage Italy. Part II. 
 
 the Palace of the Spanifh EmbaJfador r belonging 
 always to him that is Embajjador here. In the 
 CoUegio de end of the Piazza Hands the College de propagan - 
 propaganda °f propagating the Faith, founded by £v- 
 
 J ban the VIII* to maintain divers Undents' of the 
 
 Eaftern Countries, and even of India and Ethio- 
 pia too, who hhving finilhed their ftudies in this 
 College, are fent back again to their feveral 
 Countries, with great profit and advantage to 
 thofe poor Infidels, who would fit Hill in the 
 darknefs of infidelity, were it not for the Pope’s 
 care and charity. 
 
 Jontmdc From hence I fleered to the Piazza of the 
 Invu Fontana de Trevt , and in my way, faw divers 
 ftately Palaces, inhabited by Cardirfals, becaufe 
 they Hand near the Foot of MontecavaUd , where 
 the Pope refides. This Fountain of Treve is not 
 yet finifhed, as to the ftru&ure that was intend- 
 ed \ but only the water is brought hither, and in 
 that quantity, that it feems to make three little 
 Rivers, at the three mouths, out of which it 
 ' gufheth. 
 
 7k Maro- From hence I went nearer unto the foot of the 
 rites Col- hill Montecavallo , and ftept into the College of 
 ie & e * the Maronites^ in whofe Church I heard them 
 flnging tylafs in their own language, and after 
 their own rites, as the Ghriftians of Mount Liba~ 
 ms have immemorably ufed to do. Their lan- 
 guage is Arabic, and they have always kept 
 themfelves free from Herefies and in Union' 
 with the Roman Church, thefe five Hundred 
 years. , 
 
 sS.Apoflo- Frortl ^ cnce 1 went to the Church of the SS* 
 \ h * p ( Apoftoli , built in honour of the Twelve Apoftles* 
 bjConJlantine the Great, who in honour of thofe 
 
 Holy 
 
 ;i 
 
 I 
 
 j 
 
 V 
 
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 C( 
 
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 tc 
 
 lx 
 
 Hi 
 
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 Pi 
 
 Hi 
 
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Part II. aao^aget^ous^ ltaif. 11$ 
 
 Holy Apoftles, carried out of the Foundation, 
 
 .twelve Baskets of Earth, upon his own Shoul- 
 ders. . In this Church lies buried, St. Philip and 
 Jaccib 9 two Apoftles. In the Piazza before this 
 Church, Hand four fine Palaces ; that of the 
 Prince Colonna , that of Cardinal Ghifi^ that of 
 Cardinal Sforza, and that of the Signori Mutt. 
 
 Crofting from hence into the Corfo, 1 took an The Corfi 9 
 exaft obfervation of this Street, which is the fair- 
 eft in Rome. It*s called the Corfo } becaufe here 
 it is that they make Horfes run againft Horfcs, 
 
 Jews againft Jeig/s, Boys againft Boys, and the 
 like. In Carneval time. Here alfo it is that the 
 Mafcarades nthrch in Carneval time, and make 
 ves and others merry : And all this is al- 
 
 the Italians , that they may give a little 
 
 vent to their Spirits, which have been ftifled. in 
 for a whole year, and are ready elfeto cfaoak 
 with gravity and melancholy ; moft men here 
 living alone in their Houfes and Chambers. If 
 our Stateimen in England had gone on in the 
 courfe their wife Anceftors had (hewed, and had 
 fuffered* as they did, fome honeft recreations to 
 the People, as Bowling, Shooting, Racing, &c. 
 to give vent to (their active Spirits, we had all 
 been happier: But while both the Tribunals,, 
 and the Pulpits thundred out againft moderate 
 Recreations and Affenptblies, out of Fear and 
 Fa&ion, they made the humour of the Englifh 
 men grow fo fowr and Bitter, that nothing would 
 pleafe them, but fiat Rebellion, and Fanatic!?; 
 Hereftes. Now here in Rome , once a year, in 
 Carneval time, every one vents his humour ac- 
 cording to his fancy, and (as it feems) accord- 
 ing to his need. One plays the Doftor of ch« 
 
 H h z 
 
 Law ; 
 
3 WfSge Italy. Fart II. 
 
 Law, and goes up and down the ftreets with his 
 Book in his Hand, dilputing with every man he 
 meets, and uttering pure rallery : And if by 
 chance two fuch Do&ors meet, they make fport 
 enough for half an hour, by their abufing one 
 another. Four of thefe pretended Do&ors, with 
 their Gowns and (Caps on, and their Books of the 
 Codex before theifa, got an Afs into their Coach, 
 who had alfo another Book before him } and 
 thus tljey went along the ftreets, ftudying and 
 turning over their Books. Another takes him- 
 felf to be a grand Cy w, and goes a Horfe-back, 
 with a rich Perfian Habit, and Plumes highly 
 mounted. One went a Foot gravely, with a 
 Cloak on, and cried a Secret againft Mice , and 
 opening'his Cloak, fhewed a Cat that he had u fi- 
 tter his Arm ; another went up and down the 
 ftreet, combing his Hair like a Spaniard^ fainting 
 'the Ladies, and twirling up his'Muftaches with a 
 flayed gravity. Some go in Coaches and there 
 play on Inftruments : Others go on great Carts, 
 with little ftages of boards thrown upon them, 
 and there aft little Plays as they go along, and 
 abufe Tradefmen. One rides like a Phylician 
 upon a Mule, with a world of Urinals hung 
 round about him. Others ride gravely through 
 ache ftreets, with great Cloak^-bags behind them, 
 as if they came from Polonia . Some Princes 
 here make glorious Carro\ with four Horfes on 
 a breaft, drawing them, and with rare Pageants 
 upon them, and a great train of Horfemen and 
 Trumpeters clad exotically, accompanying the 
 Cano in a moft glorious manner. Some Noble- 
 men of higheft Quality, as Dukes and Princes, 
 I have feen going a Foot, pelting, withfugar- 
 
 plumbs, 
 
Part II. a ssopsse Italy. 1 1 7 
 
 plumbs, thofethat were in Coaches and Win- 
 dows,and apgering them with their fugar affronts. 
 
 But never did any Mafcarade pleafe like that lpe- 
 culative Italian , who mocked both the French 
 and the Spaniards at once, by walking up and 
 down the ftreet,.clad half like a jDo», and half 
 like a Monfienr. One fide of his h.air hung down 
 in a long curled lock, powdered white : The o- 
 ther fide was black andfweaty. Half of his 
 beard was turned downwards : The other half 
 was turned up with Irons, and twirled in lil^ the 
 hilt, of an old Dagger. One eye was bare, and 
 the other had a Glafs or half Spe&acle before^, 
 held ? on by a fmall wire from under* his Hat. 
 
 Half his Hat was a narrow three fingered-brimM 
 Hat, with a little half Feather upon the Brim: 
 
 The other half of it was a broad Brim, with* 
 out fo much as a Hat-band. One half of his 
 Band about his neck, was of a broad bone Lace, 
 Itarched white, the other half was made-of courfe 
 Lawn, ftarched blew, and ftanding out upon a 
 pickydilly of wire. Half of his Face looked 
 white with Meal and Powder, the other half 
 looked black and tawny. Half of his Doublet 
 was white Satin with an open Sleeve, and a world 
 of fhirt huffing about his wrift, and half on Jiis 
 waft } the other half was of black Freeze, with 
 a black Taffety ileeve clofe and ftrait to the arm, 
 and a hanging fleeve of Freeze* One half of his 
 Breeches was of Scarlet, and vaflly wide at the 
 knee, with a confufion of Ribbonds, of fix co- 
 lours * the other half was of black Taffety, clofe 
 at the knee. Upon one leg he had a Linnen 
 Stocking, with a great laced Canon turn’d down 
 %o his half leg \ on the other he had a black filfc 
 Hh 3 Stocking 
 
i i 8 01 tWtage Italy, Part II 
 
 Stocking drawn up clofe. In fine, on one Foot 
 he had a white Spanilh Leather Shoe, with a ftiff 
 knot of fix coloured Ribbond, a quarter of an, 
 Ell long; on the other a little black flat foled 
 Shoe, tied with a fliort narrow Ribbond, Thus 
 this moral Hermaphrodite , and walking Emblem 
 of peace, between the two Nations, walked up 
 and down the Corfo gravely ; yet laughing with- 
 in himfelf, to fee how he carried about him 
 two fuch Antipathetical Nations in one Suit of 
 Cloatfis, By this you may guefs at their other 
 fooleffes in Cameval time, and fee how inno- 
 cently they divert themfelves : For you muft 
 know, that none are fuffered to carry Swords 
 or Arms, while they go masked thus ; nor to 
 enter into any houfe, nor to be abroad masked 
 after it grows dark ; nor to do or fpeak any thing 
 fcandaloufly, that may fliock civility or publick 
 view : for which reafon here are always Guards 
 fet, and Sergeants riding up and down the Street 
 of the CorJb 9 to ke^ep all in order, and to make 
 even Mirth obferve Decency. 
 
 In this Street alfo of the Corfo it is that Noble- 
 men and Ladies take the Air every fair Evening 
 in their Coaches. For this reafon there are ma- 
 ny fine Palaces built' in this Street ; as the Palace 
 SimePala. of Signor Fit ellef chi ^ where I faw ten Chambers 
 ms in the on a floor, and all of them filled with a rare Col- 
 Corfo. leftion of Pidures and Statues. Among the Sta- 
 tues I was pleafed exceedingly with that of Cincin- 
 natus , and with that of Brutus , defac’d by the 
 command of the Senate, where the very marks 
 of the punches of the Halberts wherewith they 
 defac’d it, aae yet feen. Not tar from it ftands 
 r the Palace of Principe Pamfilio 9 in which I faw 
 
 more 
 
Part II. a GJOpage tfaOUglJ Italy. ”9 
 
 more Riches and rare Furniture than in any houfe Tlx Value 
 in Rome, or almofl in Italy. For here they fhew- ^ lio# ani * 
 cd me excellent Plate of Gold and Silver: an 
 Agate Crofs fixed upon a foot of the root of 
 Sapbyr-Stone, and under it a Bafis befet round a- 
 bout it Cameos cut into Piftures : a great Silver 
 Crucifix upon an Ebony Frame, the whofe worth 
 12000 Crowns : a rare Cabinet with the Pidure 
 of our blefied Lady in it, the whole valued at 
 * ^ooq Crowns : a Sword whofe Hdt is of three 
 great Turky-Stones of great value : 'a Bafin of 
 gold fet thick with Turkey-Stones: three or four 
 great Bezoar Stones, as big as Pearmaens, which 
 had been prefented to Clement the VIII from all 
 Parts, becaufe he flood in need of them : a rich 
 Mitre, fet with precious Stones of great value, 
 and a world of curious Originals of the belt Paint- 
 ers hands : curious Saddles, Harnefs, Liveries of 
 fhow Embroidered with Gold and Silver, with 
 many other, rich Curiofities. The other Pala- 
 ces in the Corfo are thefe ; that of Principe Carho~ 
 niano ; that of Cardinal Franciotti j that of - Don 
 Augufino Chi ft, that of Principe Ludtvtjio, that 
 of the Duke Caetano . 
 
 There are alfo in this Street Tome Churches 
 worth taking notice ofj as that of St. Maria Mf. 
 
 Via Lata % which Hands near the Palace of the r [^ inVtAd 
 Prince Vamfilic . -It’s an ancient Church, and xtA * 
 Cardinals Title. Baronius faith, that it’s built 
 there where St. Paid lodged at his firft coming 
 to Rome. It’s faid alfo that in the Oratory here 
 St. Luke vvrote the Ads of the Apoftles. 
 
 There' is alfo in the Corfo the Church of SL 
 Marcello, a title of a Cardinal. It was built in j** Marcc * 4 
 the place where anciently flood the Temple of the 0# 
 
 H h 4 Infamous 
 
220 a«flget&OUg$ Italy, Part IL 
 
 Infamous Egyptian Goddefs Ifis , which Tiberius 
 himfelf caufed to be pulled down, the Idol thrown 
 into Tyber , and all the Priefts of it to be crucified,' 
 for having favoured a great crime committed by 
 a Roman Lady. Behind this Church Hands the 
 t, v Oratory of St. MarceUo y called the Oratory of 
 the Holy Crucifix, where there is a famous Cow- 
 fraternity in which many noble Men of Rome arc 
 enrolled. Every Friday in Lent there is excellent 
 Mufic, and one of the belt Preachers in Rome. . 
 From hence alfo in the Holy year I faw march a 
 Proceflion of 15000 Men, all in black Buckram 
 Coats to the Heels, with a white Torch in their 
 hands \ and they went from hence on the Night 
 of Manday Tburfday unto St. Peters Church. 
 
 St. Carlo Then the Church of St. Carlo in Corfo, where 
 in Cprfo. I faw the Heart of St. Charles Barromeo in aChry- 
 ftal cafe. This Church belongs to the Mila* 
 nefu 
 
 St Taco- Then the Church of St. Jacamode gP Incurable 
 mo deg? K a neat round Church belonging to the Hofpi- 
 Zncurabili. tal here, where they that are affii&ed with incu- 
 rable difeafes, are entertain’d and well tended. 
 
 The Con* Laftly, the Church of the Penitent Whores 
 vent of the with their Convent * where all thofe poor Souls 
 repented that repent themfelves of their bad life, are receiv’d 
 Whores, anc j k € p t a jj t hei r Life-time, at the coft of this 
 Convent. And here I found a great difference 
 between this Convent and the houfe in Awfter- 
 daMj where Whores are clap’d up a For here 
 thefe poor Souls are lock’d up with their own con- 
 fent and defire : there they are lock’d up by force 
 . and violence. Here the poor Women do great 
 a&$ of Aufterities and Penance; as the bloody 
 Walls of their Cells , laid t>pen by a Conflagrate 
 
 * pn ? 
 
Fart II; & ©Of age t&Olffi$ Ialy. 1 21 
 
 on, (hewed urfto all the City : there the young 
 Women laugh, and are merry. Here no Man is 
 permitted to fpeak alone with them, except their 
 Confeflor and Phyfician y there many Men go to 
 prattle and pafs their time with thofe waoton 
 Girls, at a reparation of rails. Here a Vail hides 
 thefe poor Womens faces: there I fa w divers 
 wittf black Patches on their Faces. 'Here all iigns 
 .of true Repentance are feen, there none. Here 
 the love of Virtue and Penance locks up thefe : 
 there the vice of Love locks in thofe, and not true 
 Repentance for really all the Repentance I faw 
 there was, that it repented me, that I had fuffer- 
 ed mine Hoffc (who would needs (hew me all the 
 Rarities of Amfterdam) to lead ihe thither. 
 
 O but faid an Hollander to mfc, the Pope al- otyeRion, 
 lows Whores in Rome . 
 
 To whom I anfwered, no more Sir, than y our Mfivcr; 
 States do Drunkennefs, which is a greater Sin of 
 the two, becaufe it rides double, and c&rrfeth 
 Luxury behind ir. Do not drink Wine in which 
 is Luxury, Epbcf. 5. 
 
 But faith an English Writer, I am told that cbjetl. 
 the Pope both permits, and takes Money of them 
 too for that permiflion. 
 
 You have been told many other falfe tales by 
 thofe who think it lawful to tell untruths, fo they Fenton in 
 fpeak but again# the Pope : in the mean time I 
 that have been five times in Rome , can tell you °t 
 the contrary ^ if, by permitting, -you mean allow- u 
 ingand approving of them in thatcourfe. There’s 
 a great difference between allowing and permit- 
 ting a thing. Mofes allowed not, but yet per- 
 mitted the Libel of divorce to the Jews , for the 
 hardnefs of their Hearts. So Ufury is permitted, Mtu u 
 
 but 
 
1 2S g mm* Italy. Part II. 
 
 but not allowed in diversCountries forTrades fake* 
 ol\e&* But why takes he Money of them ? 
 
 Anfxv* This Money is taken up by you upon credit, 
 not the Pope. For the Pope is fo far from recei- 
 ving any Money of thefe drabs, that he goes to 
 greatcoft to hinder their trading. No Man per- 
 haps hath told you this, and therefore Pie tell 
 you : know then that the Papeete hinder all young 
 Women from being naught, hath founded Hof- 
 pitals for poor Girls, where they are carefully 
 brought up till they become either married wives, 
 or Nuns. Nay he gives them Dowries alfo to 
 execute this their choice, diftributing yearly, up- 
 on the Feaft of our Lady day, in Lent, in the 
 Church of the Dominicans , fupra Minervam , a 
 Purfe of Money a piece, to three hundred young 
 Maids who are prefented to him by theOverfeers 
 of the aforefaid Hofpitals. Nor is this all, for he 
 caufeth young Girls of tender years to be taken 
 from their poor fufpe&ed Mothers, left Poverty 
 qua cogit adturpia , fhould make them facriSce 
 thofe tender Virgins to Rich Mens Lulls. In fine, 
 ferns* he hath caufed a Monaftery.to be built in Rome 
 & Rditiu- to receive thofe poor unfortunate Women in r 
 ckonoio* w ^ 0 wou ^ leave that infamous courfe, if they 
 giai trei- had but means to live on. Nay, hegranteth In- 
 jme. dulgences to any that will marry any of thofe 
 Women to free them from that lewd Courfe, 
 and make them mend. All this the Pope doth, 
 and much more \ which would be a deftroying 
 of his own trade and gain, if it were true, that he 
 countenanceth and allowejJi of Whores for his 
 gain. No Miller ever turned the Current of 
 Water from his own Mill. 
 
 But why doth not the Pope difcountenancc 
 
 and 
 
Part II, a tmopage Italy: 1 2 ? 
 
 and punifh Whores that arb known to be fuch ? * 
 
 He doth fo. For it is not a difcountenancing of Anfw. 
 them ,to forbid them to come to publick Meetings, 
 and Aflemblies, where women of Honour meet? 
 as at the Corfo , in the Evenings*; at public Marri- 
 ages ; at their fung Opera's and the like ? Is it not 
 a difcountenancing of them to forbid them to go 
 in Coaches in the -day time ; or to ftir out of 
 doors in the night ? Is it not a ptinifhment to them 
 to forbid them to live together,where they might 
 encourage one another, and paf3 their time more 
 chearfuily ? But for the mod part they live alone* 
 condemned* to the melancholy horror of their 
 Crimes,and the* Solitude of feven whole weeks in 
 Lent\ when, upon pain of rigorOusPunifliments and 
 Iraprifonment, they dare not admit of any Cufto- 
 mers. The like rigour is ufed againft them alfo 
 in Advent, that during the fpaCe of thofe holy 
 times, thefe unholy Women may have time to 
 think of themfelves, and admit of Gods holy In- 
 fpirations for their amendment. Is it not a Pu~ 
 nijfbment to them to be ‘oblig’d to enter their names 
 publickly in the Lift of Whores? For if Tacitus Tacit. M 
 obferves that the old Romans y Satis poenarum ad - z* 
 
 verfum impudiccts in ipfa pYofejftoneflagitii apud <i/£- 
 diles credebant ; thought it Punijhment enough , a- 
 gainft unchaft Women , in their very prof effing them - 
 f elves to be fuch before the £diks . I cannot but 
 think it a great Punifhment to Chriftian Whores 
 ( who are at leaft as fenfible as the Heathens, of 
 the horrible Difgrace of having their Name lift- 
 ed,) to be thus defam’d for ever, by remaining 
 Whores upon Record. Is it not a punching of 
 them, to deprive them all their Life-time fas 
 long as they live WhoresJ of the holy Sacra- 
 ments : and after their Death, of Chriftian Buri- 
 
124 Si »fSge t|£8**g! Italy. Part II, 
 
 dl? Is it not a Puniftiment, and a deterring of 
 them from Vice, to throw ffieir Bodies when 
 they die into an obfcure place, out of the Walls 
 ©f the Town, as if they defer v 5 d no other Buri- 
 al-places than that of Afles ? Is it not, in fine, a 
 Punifhment to them not to be allowed to make 
 any Will or Teftament, but to leave all their 
 Goods confifcated either totheHofpitalsof poor 
 honeft Girls, or to the maintaining of thofc 
 Guards, that are to watch over their deport- 
 ments ? If thefe Puniflimentsboth of Body, Soul, 
 and Honour, be infli&ed upon Whores in Rome , 
 as they are, do not urge any more, that Whores 
 are not punifhed in Rome, nor difcbuntenanced. 
 
 But why doth not the Pope punifhthem home, 
 and root them quite out by banifhment ? 
 
 This hath been attempted by divers Popes, and 
 namely by Pius Quintus of happy memory } fas 
 Thuanus in his Hiftory writes) but feeing greater 
 inconveniencies,and greater fins arofe upon it, Pru- 
 dence, which is the Salt that muft feafon all mo - 
 ral A&ions, thought it not fit to carry on that ri- 
 gor * nor yet allow of Fornication neither. So 
 that all the permiflion of Whores in Rome 7 that 
 can colourably be imagin’d, is only a not Punifh- 
 ing of them in all rigor ^ and even that too, for a 
 good end j and to hinder greater Evils. 
 
 $bje$. But the Pope being both a Temporal and an 
 Ecclefiaftical Superior , is bound, in my Mind, to 
 break through all reports, and fettle Innocency 
 in the World. 
 
 dxfw. It’s Zealoufly fpoken, and I wifii he could do it * 
 but difficilem rem opt as .generis bumani imocentiam % 
 , be wifheth a hard things who wifheth for the Jnno~ 
 
 °f Mankind^ faith a Wife Man. And if 
 
 Princes 
 
Part II. %imvm Italy. 125 
 
 Princes fometimes do not punilh fa&ious Subje&s, 
 
 •when they fee that the punilhing of them would 
 pull the whole State to pieces over their heads, and 
 put the whole Kingdom in danger, as it did in 
 Henry the Third’s time in France, upon his cau- 
 Eng of the Duke of Guifa to be killed in Blots : 
 if Generals of Armies take no notice of fome 
 treacherous Commander, who is univerfally be- 
 lov’d by the Soldiers \ left the punilhing of one 
 Man, lofe them the affe&ion of the whole Ar- 
 my, as we faw lately in the cafe of Lubemirsky 
 (how truly guilty I know not) and fome years a- 
 go I remember^in the cafe of Walflein , whofe Pu- 
 nilhment had almoft undone the Emperor : why 
 may not the Pope, without approving the Sin of 
 Whores, prudently wave the punilhing of it with 
 all Rigor,, when he fees that fuch rigor would 
 caufe greater diforders in that hot Nation, and in 
 that City where all nations feem to club Vices, as 
 Virtues ? Hence learned Abulenfts , a great Divine in c . 8. 
 faith; Lecct leges human a aliqua mala per mitt ant /• 
 non puniendo , nullum tarnsn malum permttunt fea~ 
 tuendo , 
 
 But the Pope (hould not: govern according ei« objed. 
 ther to humane Policy, or humane Laws and Ex- 
 amples. 
 
 You pretend Zeal, but you would do well to Anfvr. 
 take her Sifter Prudence with her, as our Saviour 
 did, who when he heard his Difciples defiring him 
 to let them call down Fire from Heaven upon 
 the criminal Samaritans, anfwer’d them calmly, Luke 9, 
 you know not of what Spirit you are. Nay doth 
 not God himfelf, . who being able to punilh all 
 criminal Perfons, and root them quite out of the 
 
 World, 
 
S.Tho. 
 
 2 . 2 . q.io. 
 
 12 6 a wage t&Otfg?) Italy. Part II. 
 
 World, -fuffer both his Sun to Rife and fliine up- 
 on Sinners, and Sinners, to offend in’ this Sunlhine, 
 and often by it ? Hence St. Thomas faith much 
 to my purpofe : Humanum regimen derivator a 
 art. 1 1 , in divino regimine & ipfum debet imitari. Deus autem 
 '* orpore. ^ uamv i s fa Omnipoteys, ac Jumme boms, permit- 
 tit tamen aliqua mala fieri in univerfo , qua prohibe - 
 re pojjet j ne its fublatis , major a bona tollerentur 9 
 vel majora mala fequerentur. Humane Govern- 
 ment is deriv'd from Divine Government, and ought 
 to imitate it. Now God although he be Almighty , 
 and highly good , yet he permits Evils to be done in 
 the World , which he could hinder , left by taking a- 
 i vay them , greater Goods Jhould be taken away , or 
 greater Evils Jhould follow. But I wade too far 
 in this puddle : yet remember who thruft me in- 
 to it, and you’ll pardon me. 
 
 Behind the Church and Convent of the afore- 
 faid Penitents, ftands the Church of $an Stive - 
 ftro in Capite , fo called from the Pidure of our 
 Saviour’s Head and Face, which our Saviour 
 himfelf made by Miracle, and fent to Abagarus , 
 King of Edeffd \ as you may read at length in 
 Barortius , and in Bofius in his rare Book called Ro- 
 ma Soterranea. Now this Pidure is kept here in 
 this Monaftery, and. with great Probability, fee- 
 ing it was here that divers Greek Monks, driven 
 out of their Country by Gonftantine Capronimus , 
 for the defence of Sacred. Images, were entertain- 
 ed by Pope Paul the firffc ; and it’s very likely 
 that thefe good Men brought with them this fa- 
 mous Pidure of our Saviour, to fave it from the 
 fury of the Inconoclafts . 
 
 St. Stive - 
 ftro in Ca- 
 pite 9 
 
 Returning 
 
Part II. a«2*0fage Italy. ta; 
 
 Returning from hence into the Corfo again, ‘ ! 
 went to fee there the Colonna d* Antonino , the Colon** 
 great Pillar of Antoninus the Emperor. It’s built ^movix* 
 juft like that of Trajan defcrib’d above. It was 
 built by Marcus Aurelius Antoninus the EmperOr, 
 in honour of his Father Antonins Pius. It’s all 
 of white Marble, engraven without with a Bajjb 
 relievo from top to bottom, containing the memo- 
 rable a&ionsjof M. Aurelius. It’s 175 foot high, and 
 hath in it 206 flairs wduch lead up to the top of it, 
 and 5 6 little Windows giving light to thofe 
 Stairs : and yet this high Pillar was made of 28 
 Stones of Marble. The Carving that is upon it 
 contains the brave A&ions of Marcus Aurelius o- 
 ver the Armenians r Parthians , Germans , Wan^ 
 dals 9 and Sarmats, or Polonians, but age hathlb 
 defac’d th efeBa/fi relievi that it is hard to deci- 
 pher them. He that’s curious to know them, may 
 buy them ift the printed Cuts fold in Rome. Up- 
 on the top of this Pillar Hands mounted the Satue * 
 in Brafs gilt, of- St. Paul , fet up here by Sixtus 
 Quintus . From the. top of this Pillar 1 had a 
 perfect view of Rome ,. and of almoft all the fe- The [even 
 ven Hills upon which it is built, and a*e withip Mils, of 
 the Walls : which are thefe. Rome, 
 
 1. The Capitolin Hill, where now Ay a Cosli MonsCx- 
 
 ftands, and the Confervatorio. pitolinus . 
 
 2. The Palatin Hill, I could not fee hecaufe it Falatinas. 
 ftands behind the former. It was fo called from 
 
 the Emperor’s Palace that flood upon it. 
 
 3. The Aventine Hill fo tailed from Aventi- Avmms* 
 nus 9 King of Alba, buried here where now St. 
 
 Sabinas is. 
 
 4. The C cell an Hill beginning at St. Gregories , Caiius, 
 and running to St, John lateranX 
 
 5. Tlie 
 
1 28 a <StO£*£e tftottg!) Italy Fart It 
 
 Zfluilinus* 5 . The Efquiline Hill, Exquilinus quaft excubr 
 nus y becaufe of the nightly Watch and Guard 
 upon it. Here ftands St. Mary Majors . 
 
 Vimivalis. 6. The Viminal Hill, fo called from Vimina , 
 that is y Ofters : wherewith it was anciently cover- 
 ed. Here ftands the Therm# Diocletiani, and the 
 Villa Montalto . 
 
 (guirinalif* 7. The Quirinal Hill, fo called from the Tem- 
 ple of Quirinus , or Romulus 7 which ftood upon it. 
 Here now ftands MontecavdUo . Thefe were the 
 feven ancient Hills of Rome , to which were added 
 three more, to wit, the Janicule hill, fo called, 
 ffanicklut. from Janus buried here. Here ftands *St# Retro 
 Montorio. 
 
 Vwctnus. The Vatican hill, fo called from the Vaticinate 
 ons and Soothfayings made here. St. Peters Church 
 ftands now upon it. 
 
 Hindus, or The Pincian hill, now called Montrinit a, De- 
 The Pa7- W * f cenc ^ n & fr° m hence, I went to the Pazzorella, 
 zorella." where they keep Madmen and Fools •, and law 
 there ftrange variety of humours in Folly : yet 
 I was pleafed to fee with what Charity and Care 
 tbofe poor Men were tended there. 
 
 From hence I ftept to conftdcr in the Piaz.x,a 
 di Pietra y the row of curious Pillars which a- 
 dorn’d the Ba/ilica of the Emperor Antoninus r 
 who had his Palace here, and his Forum . 
 
 Tk Ro- Then turning by little unfrequented Streets, I 
 nanc*/- came to the Roman College belonging to the Je- 
 fuits. 
 
 It’s a fair Building, and ftands conveniently for 
 Concourfe of Scholars from all . Parts. Here I 
 K$rkeriu$ few t ^ ie Schools and Gallery of famous Atbana- 
 biiGtUerj. fins Kerkcrius, full of pretty Curiofities and Ex- 
 periences, both Mechanical, Mathematical , and 
 
 Hydraulic ah 
 
Part II. a?U0t ! age tfijougfi Italy. 
 
 ' Hydraulic al : yet in my "Opinion, its far fliort of 
 Canonico Settala\ Gallery ip Milan , or Monfieur 
 Servtcrs in Lyons. Here’s alio a fair Library, ha- 
 ving no fault in it but the common fault of moll 
 Libraries, to wit, Locks and Keys to it. Good 
 Books fhould be as cpmnjon as the Sun, feeing 
 they arethe lights of our Minds, .and made pub- 
 lick by the Prefs : and I cannot but pity a Book, 
 that is imprifoned and lock’d up in a Library, 
 by faying unto it : Odifii claves & grata figiUa 
 yudictf. Panels oft ends genii r, & communia laudat. 
 
 In fine, I faw here the Apothecaries Shop, where 
 a Lay-Brother makes excellent Roman Treacle, 
 and other odoriferous Dill illations of Sovereign 
 Virtue. The Church belonging to this College 
 isdefigtiM to be* a noble thing, but it’s but half 
 guilty For want of a whole Founder. 
 
 From hence I went to the Dominicans Con- 
 vent, called La Minerva , becaufe it’s built upon Lx 
 the place where anciently flood the Temple of w* 
 Minerva . Hence alfo the Church is called San - 
 ta Mariafupra Minervam : in this Church I faw 
 many neat Tombs, as thofe of Leo the X, and 
 Clement the VII, both Popes of die Houfe of 
 Medic es .• they Hand in the Quire, and are 
 neatly wrought by that great Artift Baccio Band r- 
 nelli. Then the Tomb of Cardinal Pimentelli ? 
 a modern Cardinal. The Tomb of great Car- 
 dinal Morona , Legate for the Pope in the Coun- 
 cil of Trent ^ and a Man who had been thirteen . 
 times Legatus a Latere . Hefre alfo lie buried.xhe 
 Aftes of Egidio FoJcaria y iSlhop of Modena y cal- 
 led in the Council . of Trmt, Luminare Majiis . 
 The Tomb of a Lady of the Family of the 
 is very neat for the new manner of ipread- 
 I i ing 
 
!j O ISOtage Part II, 
 
 ing fas I may fay* and as you would thinks of 
 black Marble upon another coloured Marble •, 
 and both of them upon a round Pillar. Here 
 on the Gofpel fide of the high Altar flandeth a 
 Statue of our Saviour, made by Michel Angelo, 
 of white Marble a rare piece. At the Entrance 
 of the great door of this Church, lies buried, un~ , 
 der a plain flat Stone, Thomas a Vto Caetanus 
 St. Thomas of Aquin’s Second, his Brother in Re- 
 ligion, his Name-fake, his learned Commenta- 
 tor, and only not he. Out of humility he 
 would not be buried'wkhin the Church, but out ! 
 of it. In the Sacrifty of this Church, I law the 
 Chappel of Katherine of Siena , and this Chappei ; 
 was once her very Chamber in Siena : Cardinal 
 'Antonio Barberino , Protestor of this Order, cau- 1 
 fed it to be transferred hither from Siena. Her \ 
 Body lieth under the Altar of the Rofary in this 
 Church. 
 
 ^.Andrea From the Minerva I went to Saint Andrea del - 
 
 4tM Valle, la VaHe, a fine Church belonging to the Theatins . 
 It’s built upon the place where theTheater of Pom* 
 fey flood, anciently and where, in latter times, 
 flood the Palace of the Family of the Picolomi - 
 ni •, and perchance this was the reafon why two 
 Popes of that Family, to wit, Pius Secundus, and 
 Pius Tertius are now buried in this Church. The 
 Cupola was painted by Cavalier Lanfranco , the 
 three Corners under the Cupola, and the Tribune 
 are of the hand of Domenichini . The neat Chap-^ 
 pel of the Barberini, made by Pope Vrban the 
 VIII, while he was but yet Cardinal, is built up- 
 on the very place where St. Sebajlian was beaten 
 and thrown into a Sink after he had been fhot. 
 There fed been formerly a little Church built 
 
Part IL awopaget&ouglj Italy. iji 
 
 upon this place, and over this Sink, but Sixtus 
 Quintus gave leave ic fhould be pulled down, up- 
 on condition a Chappel of the newdefign’dChurch 
 ffiould be built in place of it. In fine, take all this 
 Church together, and it is one of the neateft 
 Churches ( except the Bafilica) jfhat are in Rome i 
 being of the Architecture of Maderna. . 
 
 In the Piazza, or rather the Street which goes 
 before this Church, lived not long ago, Pietro 
 della Valle, that ingenious Roman Gentleman, who Pietro 
 having fpent great means in Travelling, hath^ 4 ^» 
 left us three Volumes in Quarto of his curious 
 .relations of Voyages. In this houfe here he had 
 three whole Mummies with their Coffins or Cafes 
 painted anciently, and adorned with divers Hiero - ' 
 glypbics. He fpent much Money in buying many 
 other rarities, which he kept alfo here. 
 
 Behind this Church lived, when ‘I firft was ac- 
 quainted with Rome , another great Vrtuofo , and 
 Gentleman of Rome 9 I mean the ingenious Cava - Cavalier 
 Iter Pozzo, with whom I was brought acquaint- Pozzo* 
 ed, and faw all his Rarities, his curious Pi&ures, 
 
 Medals, BaJJi relievi , his excellent Books of the 
 rareft things in the World, which he caufed to 
 be Painted, Copied, and defig n*d out with great 
 Colt 
 
 From hence I went to the Palace of the Duke % Palace 
 Mattbei , where I faw many good Pictures and ^ Matthc i 
 Statues, efpecially that long Picture reprefenting 
 fully the manner of Clement the VIII his going 
 from Rome to take pofleflion of Ferrara. 
 
 Thence falling in at St, Carlo in Catepari , a 
 neat round Church^ I went to the Cancel- The Can* 
 laria , This Palace was built of the Stones of ceiUm, 
 the Califeo , by Cardinal Riarii. The chief ‘thing 
 
 i i 2 # ; i 
 
1 3 2 £ C*01>8ge t&OUglj Italy Part II. 
 
 I faw in it was the Gallery of Pictures of Cardi- 
 nal Barberin , who being Pice-Chancellor, liv.eth 
 always in this Palace, to exercife his Charge the 
 better. 
 
 s * n . L( £ €ttm This Palace looks into the Church of San Lo- 
 mafo. 1 Ye ^o in Damafo , a Collegiate Church. Under 
 the high Altai' repofeth the Body of St. Dama- 
 fus Popt. The Wails of the Body of the 
 Church are rarely painted with the Hiftory of 
 St. Laurence . 
 
 jfa Paiac^ jsj 0 t f ar f rom hence ftands the Palace of Far- 
 ® nefi belonging to the Duke of Parma. Before 
 it ftands a noble Piaz.z.a with two rare Foun- 
 tains in it. The Palace it felf is one of t{ie beft’ 
 in Rome , or elfewhere. It makes an Ifle, that is, 
 it hath no houfes joining to it. The form of it 
 is fquare, and it hath, in the midft of every 
 lquare, a great door, letting you into the Court. 
 This Court is built upon Pillars and Arches, 
 with a fair open Gallery above, letting you into, 
 feveral appartiments. In ’ this Court I faw the 
 famous Statue of Hercules , leaning upon his Club, 
 which was found in the Therme of Antoninus Ca- 
 racalla : One of the Legs is modern, the reft old, 
 and made by Glyco an Athenian , as the Greek 
 words upon it told me. 
 
 There is another Statue of Hercules oppofite to 
 it,and juft like it, but not fo good, being but a Co- 
 py of the former. The other Statues here of 
 the two Fiord* s, the two Gladiators and others, 
 are excellent pieces. Mounting up the great flairs 
 to go into the Chambers and open Gallery, I 
 law the curious ftatue of the Boy and the Dol- 
 phin } and at the door of the great Hall, the 
 ftatues* of two Parthian Captive Kings. Entring 
 % - " into 
 
Part II. a tJOpage Italy. 13? 
 
 into that Hall, I met prefently with the rare fta- 
 tae of Alexander Fame ft , Duke of Parma , tram- The. Statue 
 pling'upon twoproftrate Statues, repiefenting ^ A |f xan ’ 
 Herefie and Rebellion, while Fame Crowns him. n ^ ai> 
 All thefe fourfeveral Perfons are of white Mar- 
 ble, and of one entire ftone. Its pity that fach 
 a Statue Hands not in feme more publick place, 
 to teach Men to beware of the Mother and the 
 Daughter, Herelie and Rebellion \ and (hew* 
 them what long hands Kings have. In the fame^ 
 
 Hall I faw the two excellent ftatues of Charity 
 and Plenty, incumbent poftures} and they are 
 the Fellows to thofe two ftatues which adorn the 
 ^Tomb of Paulus Tertius , the raifer of this Fa- 
 mily, in St. Peter's Church. Round about this 
 Room alfo, Hand a world of ftatues of Gladia- 
 tors, Handing with their Swords in their hands, 
 and in feveral poftures, upon their guard. . In 
 the next Chamber I faw rare Pidures, contain- 
 ing fome adions of Paulus Tertjuj \ and they are 
 of the hand of Salvmti • and Federico Zuccari. 
 
 There is alfo the Pidure of Luther difputing 
 with Cajetan *, and a Picture of the four Latin 
 Dodors of the. Church, St. Hierome , St. Ambrofc^ 
 
 St. Auguftin y and St. Gregory , of the hand of Per - 
 donim. In another Chamber, a world of an- 
 cient ftatues of Philofophers and Poets : As £»- 
 rqideSy Plato 9 PoJJidanius , Zeno^ Seneca , D'toge - 
 nesy Pacchusy MeleagcYy and others : Another 
 Room full of Pidiires of choice hands, and a 
 curious Table of Pietre Commejfey about twelve 
 Foot long, and five wide. Then the rare Gallery 
 of ftatues, with the Roof of it painted moft ad- 
 mirably, by the ravilhing hand of great Hmib$ 
 Carraccioy and containingthe representation of the 
 
 I i 3 loves 
 
134 a <2IO?afie mm$ Italy. Part IL 
 
 loves of the Heathen Gods and Goddefles. This 
 Painting may be compared, if not preferred, be- 
 fore all the Galleries of Rome or Europe \ and the 
 very cuts of it in Paper Pictures, fold at the Sta- 
 tioners fhop, are moft admirable and worth buy- 
 ing. In the fame Gallery alfo Hands the incom- 
 parable ftatue of Apollo , in a flint' Hone, Here 
 is alfo a curious Library, in which, befides the 
 curious Books, are many rare pieces of minia- 
 ture, and rare Pi&ures of Raphael and Titian , 
 aid divers excellent defigns of the fame Raphael , 
 and of Michel Angelo \ that efpfcdally of his 
 Judgment. Returning again through the fame 
 Rooms, I could not but gaze again at the ftatue 
 of my favourite Heros , Alexander Famefi, and 4 
 began at laft to think that I was miftaken, even 
 now when I faid, that Hercules his ftatue ftood in 
 the Court below \ for upon better refledtion, l 
 find no ftatue in the Palace to refembie Hercules 
 fb much, as this of Alexander of Parma \ of whom 
 I may fay, as Sulla faid of Ccefar, Jn urn Cafare , 
 multi funt Marii : In one Alexander of Parma, 
 there are many Herculefes. 
 
 Then mounting up into an appartment over 
 the former, I faw divers Chambers exquifitely 
 furniftied with Pi&ures and lefler Statues. In the 
 long Gallery there are divers rare pieces, of the 
 hand of Carraccio. In the other Rooms many 
 ancient curious things, as an ancient piece of Pain- 
 ting, found in Adrian's Tilla, and made fifteen 
 hundred years ago \ another ancient Pidture of 
 Eugenius the IV. ftudying, and St. Bernard Han- 
 ding by him. A raredefign of Vaffari^ xt pre- 
 fenting a Town in FI anders^ taken by Alexander 
 Famfh Michael Angeloh true Pi&ure. The Te- 
 
Part II. a tOWge tfjJOUSfj Italy. i ? 5 
 
 ms of Michael Angelo. The little old Pi&ure 
 of our Lady, and St. John Baptift in a fmall Mo- 
 faick work. A Crucifix in Ivory of Michael 
 Angelo 0 s making. The defign, or rather the 
 perfed model of the Bridge thrown over the 
 Seel 'd , by which Alexander Farnefi took Antwerp. 
 
 A great Cabinet of Medals , with a world of o~ 
 ther rarities, too long to be related, but never 
 enough to, be feen. 
 
 Then defeending into a little back Court, I Tkfmm 
 faw there the famous Toro . It is a ftatue of a ^ 
 great Bull, to whofe Horns, a Rope being tied 
 at one end, and at the other end of it a Wohians 
 hair, two lufty Fellows are ftriving to puOi this 
 Bull from a promontory, into the Sea below, and 
 the ‘Woman together with him, to make her a- 
 way. The ftory is known, and it is of Ampbim 
 and Zetur^ who to revenge their Mother Antiope^ 
 for the wrong done her by Dine (who had got 
 Liens King of Thebes , to repudiate Antiopt f tor 
 to marry her) took this Dirce^ and tying her to 
 a Bulls Horns, threw them both, the Bull and 
 the Woman into the Sea. The Bull, the two 
 Brothers, the Woman, a little Boy, and a Dog* 
 are all cut out of one Marble ftpne. The (bai- 
 ling Fellow that keeps this Bull, or rather, whom 
 this Bull keeps, will tell you another ftory of this 
 Statue through the Nofe ; But feeing he fells his 
 ftory as well as tells jt, you had better give him 
 a ^ulio betimes, to be rid of him, than heat ano- 
 ther Long and new Fable. 
 
 Going from hence into the great fsazxa 
 I ftept into the houfe of the Signors 
 which ftands over sgainft the Palace of Farm/s j 
 to fee two Statues^ the one of Vtsm^ the other 
 
 I i 4 of 
 
i\6 a wage t&otlgl) Italy. Part II, 
 pf Adonis } both ancient ones,and fo rarely made, 
 that the Earl of Arondel , late Lord Marlhal of 
 . England , offered twelve Thoufand Crowns for 
 them, but was refufed. 
 
 Palling from hence towards the Palace of Car- 
 dinal Spada r I entered into it, and there faw ma- 
 ny, ex( }wfi te Pidures. 
 
 fronts Sifto Thence l went to Ponte Sifto , and from thence 
 tai tf°the ^ ^ ie of the Trinity., which deceives 
 
 HoijTri- Pilgrims coming to Rome , for three days, 
 pftj! and treateth them plentifully. I confefs, I went 
 often hither, and as often admired the wonder- 
 ful charity which is done here daily } but efpe- 
 dally in the holy week in Lent , by the Confra- 
 ternity of this Hofpitaly of which, moR are Gen- 
 tlemen. Here Noblemen, Bifhops and Cardi- 
 nals wafh the Pilgrims feet, and then ferve them 
 at Slipper in the long Refe&ory, where there are 
 frequently, in the holy week, four hundred Pil- 
 grims at once at Table. 
 
 $. GiroU- Returning from thence, I went to St. Girolamo 
 ■mo della j e ii a charita , a Church • and Houfe of good 
 mta ' PrieRs, and moR of them Gentlemen, living of 
 their own expences, yet all in Community. St, 
 Philip Neri inftituted them, and lived among 
 them thirty years. In the Church I faw, upon 
 the high Altar, an excellent Picture of St. Hie-. 
 Yome . 
 
 tklnglifh Hard by Rands the Englilh College, once an 
 College. Hofpital for the Englifh, and built by the En- 
 glifh Merchants in Rome , to receive Englifn Pil-s 
 grims in} becaufe a poor Englilh Woman had 
 f been found worried by Dogs, in the night, for 
 want of a Lodging* In the Church of this Col- 
 lege 
 
Part II. 3 voyage Italy. 
 
 lege lies buried, Cardinal Alan y the la^Engliih- 
 Cardinal of our Nation. 
 
 From hence I went to the Chief a Nuova , be- 
 longing to the good Friefts of the Oratory. This 
 is one of the neateft Churches in Rome , and the 
 bell ferved. It’s all painted in the roof, by the 
 rare hand of Pietro di Cartona , and richly gilt. 
 Here I faw the neat Chappel of St. Philip Neri y 
 a primitive Saint in all things but time. He was 
 the Inftitutor of this holy Company of Priofts, 
 who are Religious Men in all things but in vows, 
 and name. The Chappel and Altar of this great 
 Saint, is on the Gofpel fide of the high Altar, 
 his true Picture there, was made by Guido Rheni . 
 Under this Altar, in a lower Chappel, or Vault, 
 lieth the body of this Saint* in an Iron Chefl : If 
 you defire to know his Merits and Life, ask all 
 Rome which lately faw them, and daily feels 
 them. On the other fide of the high Altar with- 
 in the Rails, lies buried Cxfar BaroViius , once a 
 Prieft of this hOufe, and forced, after much re- 
 lu&ancy, to be made Cardinal by Clement the 
 VIII. He deferved this honour in the opinion of all 
 Men, for having written his incomparable Ecclefia- 
 ftical Hiftory : and if Hercules , for helping Atlas 
 to bear up Heaven one day only, was feigned by 
 Poets to have deferved to be taken up to Hea- 
 ven } I may juftly fay, that Baronius deferved 
 well the purple of the Church, for having alone 
 born up the caufe of the Church of God, a- 
 gainfi: a whole Troop of Centuriators. For my 
 part, 1 reckon it among my felicities, to have li- 
 ved after Baronins , and. to have fpent a good 
 part of three years ftudy, in reading his Sacred 
 „ Annans, which colt him ten times three years 
 
 
 The Chief a. 
 Nuova . 
 
 Cardinal 
 Caefar Ba- 
 ronius. 
 
qa a matm m?. Part ir, 
 
 ftudy in waiting. And here I could enter into a 
 . fair field of his Praifes } and like the Eagle, in 
 the (lory, having nothing elfe to give him, give 
 him a Feather, that is one call of my Pen ; 
 but that I write of Countries now,, and not of * 
 Men j and that his full Praifes may be included 
 in thofe three flsort Encomiums ^ Ecdefia Cocks j 
 Cafar Chrtftianus \ Orbis Locupletator. 
 
 The houfe of thefegood Priefts deferves alio to 
 be feen,for the Libraries fake, which is one of the 
 fheQr&wy beft in Rome , and for the great Oratories fake j 
 where there is every Sunday and Holy-day in 
 Winter at Night, the beft Mufic in the World. -■ 
 Mn&e* From hence I went to the Church de la Pace, a 
 neat Church, and adorned with excellent Paint- 
 ing and Statues. Here many famous Painters 
 have fignaliz’d their Memories, as PeruzjJ of $i° 
 tne, Vafaria , Lavinia 9 a Lady of Bolognia , Fon- 
 tana, Gentelefchi , Cavalier Giofeppe , Rofli, and 
 Raphael Vrbm himfelf, who painted the Prophets 
 and Sybils in the Chappel of Auguftino Chigi c 
 and fome think that he made the little Boys that 
 are fo well done. The Statues of St. Peter and 
 S, Paul are of the Hand of Michel Angelo . 
 
 Going from hence through the Street of the 
 Stationers , I came to Fiazxa di Pafquim , which 
 is thought to be the very Center of Rome. # And 
 here I cannot forget Pafquin himfelf, who forgets, 
 r*o man. This Pafquin is an old broken Statue, 
 foraething like that of Hercules in the Belvedere, 
 deferibed above, and of fome rare Hand. And 
 becaufeit (lands near three or four Streets,where« 
 by to efcape when they have fixed the Libels % 
 jeering Wits fet up here, and father upon 
 poor Meffer Pafquim * their Satyrical jells* exiled 
 
 from " I 
 
Part II. aaiOPge Italy. XJ9 
 
 from him, Pafauinades ; which Morforius , ano- 
 ther Statue near the Capitol , ufeth to anfwer. 
 
 From hence parting on to the Church of S. Pan- St. Panta* 
 taken, belonging to the Fathers of the Schola Icon. 
 
 Pi*. I was willing to enter into it, and fee it, 
 becaufe four Hundred years ago it was a Collegi- 
 ate Church, and poflefled by Englifb Priefls, 
 as may appear by the Infcription upon a Bell 
 which was cart: then. 
 
 From hence I flept into Pizza Navona , called 
 fo by corruption, from Piazza dPAgona, becaufe 
 this Piazza was, anciently a Circus for Sports, and 
 it was called Circus Agonalvs. In the midft of it 
 anciently flood a great Egyptian Pillar, with Hie- 
 roglyphics upon it y and how of late it hath got- 
 ten another fuch Pillar fet up here by Pope Inno- 
 cent the X, with a rare Fountain ifluing forth at 
 the Foot of it, and adorned with four great Sta- 
 tues of white Marble, reprefenting the four Parts 
 of the World. In this place alfo Hands the 
 new Church of St. Agnes, built upon the place The church 
 where fhe was condemned to the Stews. This Agnes, 
 Church is built at the Coft of Princepe Pampb\\io % 
 whofe Palace joyns upon it. This Palage over- 
 looking the Piazza Navona , deferes hot only a 
 glance of an Eye, but alfo an hours Infpection 
 within. The Chambers are many and fair, and the 
 ^the great Hall a moll lovely Room, if Paintings k? P **• 
 and variety of Pi&ures in Frames can make a ]t0 ' 
 Houfe handfome. 
 
 In this Piazza I faw the Palace of the puke 
 of Braccino , of the Houfe of Orfini , and that of 
 the Family of Torres . 
 
 The Spanijh Church here called S t.Jacotnos, St. Jaco- 
 is not to be forgotten. Here lies buried in it C ia - m <>« 
 
 .,V' conius , 
 
*4° » mm* t&OttjJlj Italy. Part IL 
 
 conius, a learned Critic for a Spaniard. The 
 Pi&ure here in Oyl of San Diego is of Annibal 
 Caraccio. 
 
 Over againft the Back-door of this Church 
 fhs SipU Hands the Sapienza, a faiV College, where the 
 publick Lettures are read. This College was 
 begun by Eugenius the IV, but much beautified 
 of late with handfome Schools,and a neat Church, 
 by, Vrban the VIII, and a public Library by 
 Alexander the VII. We have had in my time 
 two Englijhmen that were Readers here; Doftor 
 Hart, and Doftor Gibbs , a noble Gefarean Lau - 
 reat Poet, and the Horace of this Age. 
 
 From hence paffing through the Piazza Ma - 
 dama , and before the Palace of the Grand Due a, 
 
 St , Lewis. I went to St. Lewis his Church, belonging to the 
 French Nation. It’s an handfome Church, and 
 well ferved with French Priefts. There’s alfo an 
 Hofpital belonging to that Church and Nation. 
 In the Church I found, upon a Pillar on the left 
 hand, the Pi&ure of great Cardinal Doff at, a 
 French-man, whom I may juftly call Great, be- 
 * caufe he was both a great Statesman, and yet a 
 very, good Man ; that is, he was a great. Servant 
 to his King, and yet a great 'Servant of God. 
 His rare Letters fhew the one, and bis Life writ-, 
 ten by Du Verdier fhews the other. Here lies 
 alfo buried, in the middle almoft of this Church, ^ 
 an Englifb Prieft of great Vertue, by name More, H 
 of the Family of great Sir Thomas More ; and 
 Heir of that Family, if I miftake not. His 
 younger Brother and he ftriving whether of them 
 fhould be Prieft, it was his prerogative of Age, 
 which making him to be four and twenty before 
 his Brother, made him enter into Orders before 
 
 him, 
 
Part II. a wage tfciOllgfJ Italy. i 4 t 
 
 him, and become Prieft, leaving the Eftate to 
 his Brother, It was he that fet us out the 1 Life 
 of Sir Thomas More, in English : at lafl retiring 
 to Rome to be Agent for his Brethren the Clergy, 
 having ended this Bufinefs there happily ( which 
 was the procuring a Catholic Bifhop) he ended 
 his Life fo too, and was buried here by his own 
 Choice. 
 
 From hence I went to the Palace of Juftiniant , 
 which is hard by. Here I faw fo many Statues of ^ lu im ’ 
 the old heathen Gods, and fuch Rooms full of 
 old Marble Feet of them, that you would almofl: 
 fwear the Heathen Gods, when they were banifh- 
 ed out of th t Pantheon, had been committed hi-* 
 ther as to a Prifon : or that fome of the Ance- 
 flors of this Houfe had been Shoo-makers to the 
 old Gods, and therefore was oblig’d to have their 
 Lads and Meafures. For they had Gods of all 
 iizes,feeingf as Varro faithjthey had 30000 Gods. 
 
 A world of thefe Statues are yet feen in the Gal- 
 lery above, and in every RQom in the Houfe, 
 which they clog, rather than adorn. And yet 
 fcarce one of them but is a Palladium to this Fami- 
 ly ; and would portend its fadden ruin if aliena- 
 ted. For as I remember the old Prince Jufiinia- 
 ni dying without Heirs Male, left this Man his 
 Heit*, with this Proyifo, .that he fhould not fo 
 much as alienate, one Statue upon pain of forfeit- 
 ing the whole Houfe and Goods. Judge then whe- ^ 
 
 ther he had not need to keep the Statues chain’d 
 up, as the Tyrians did their Gods, in a Siege; or 
 whether the throwing of one of thefe Statues out • 
 
 of the Window, would not be properly a throw- 
 ing the Houfe out of the Windows. Upon 
 which occafipn, I cannot omit to tell you how the 
 
142 
 
 Cafliod. 
 
 ?• 7* 
 
 ft WOMge Italy. Part IT. 
 
 ancient Statues of Rome were grown at lad to be 
 fo many in number, that (as CaJJiodore faith wit- 
 tily of them) pofteritas pene paretn populum urbi 
 dedit , quam natura procreavit , Pofterity had 
 made almoft as many Men, by Art, in the City, 
 as were made by Nature. And thefe Statues 
 grew to that excefs too, that Marble ones were 
 thought too vulgar,and Gold and Silver ones were 
 ere&ed by riotous Men, who fcorned to be like 
 others in any thing but in being Mortal. But to 
 return again to this Houfe,l cannot leave it with- 
 out minding you of fome rare Pi&ures, of 77- 
 tian and other prime Matters, which are fliown 
 in the Gallery above , efpecially the rare Pi&ure 
 of St. John the Evangelitt, of the hand of Rapha- 
 el Vrbin $ and that of our Lady and St. Jofeph in 
 another Room, which is a rare Copy of that fa- , 
 mous Pi&ure in the Cloitter of the Annunciata in 
 Florence , of Andrea del Sarta. 
 
 Su Eufta- From hence I went to the Church of St. Eujta- 
 chio 9 having feen in the way the goodly Ruips of 
 the Therm# of Alexander Sever us. In the Porch 
 
 chio. 
 
 of f this Church I faw an Infcription in a Stone, 
 which told me that Alexander of Parma 
 
 -> 
 
 was 
 
 Chriftened here with his Brother, being Twins. 
 This Church ttands in the place where St. Eufia- 
 chius with his Wife Theopifia , and his Sons Aga- 
 pitus and Theopiftus , were put into a Brazen Bull, 
 and martyr’d by the brazen Heart of Trajan , 
 whom Euftachius had ferved twice as General of 
 his Armies, and gained him as many Victo- 
 ries. 
 
 the Rom- From hence I went to the Rotonda,othzxm& cal- 
 da or Pan- led anciently the Pantheonjoecaufe it was dedicated 
 fhcon. t0 a u Gods. This is a bolder piece of Archite^ 
 
 fture 
 
part ii. a mm%t 
 
 Sure than Men think. For whereas other Vaults 
 arc (lengthened and made good by being 
 {hut up dofe at the top, and in the Center of the 
 Vault, which hinders the Vault from fhrinking; 
 here this great maflive Vault is left wide open at 
 the top, with a hole above three yards wide in 
 Diameter. Indeed Sebafiiams Serlitis , an experi- 
 enced Man in Fabrics, thinks this Church to be 
 the Unic example of perfect Architecture *, and 
 Pliny in his time placed it among the rarefl 
 Works that were then extant. It hath no win- 
 dow in it, nor any otheHigljt, but what comes 
 in at th^ wide hole mentioned above. Anciently 
 it was covered with Brazen Tiles, and thofe gilt 
 too, as Lfyfius thinks^ but now it’s covered 
 with great flat Stones. It’s an Hundred and forty 
 . Foot high, and as many broad* and yet it hath 
 no pillars tc^bear up that great ftoof. Indeed it 
 ‘hath thruft all the Pillars out of doors, and 
 makes them wait in the Porch } fttfiere there are 
 thirteen great Pillars all of one piece, each one 
 53 Foot high, and fix in Diameter, ail of a gra- 
 nite or fpe'ckled Marble. The Capitelli of rhefe 
 Pillars are the belt in Rome , of Corinthian brder.. 
 Here is the Tomb of the incomparable Painter, 
 Raphael Vrbin, 
 
 Ille hie eft Raphael, timuit quo fofpite vinuL 
 
 Rerum magna Parens , & monente mart. 
 
 In this Temple flood anciently the famous Mi- 
 
 I nerva made by Phidias , of which Hiftories ring* 
 
 , There alfo was plac’d the Statue of in whofc 
 
 Ear that incomparable Pearl of . Cleopatra 
 
 II hung, which upon a riotous Wager with M. dn- 
 
 tony 
 
144 3 ® 0 £age Italy. Part .IT. 
 
 tony ( whether of them fhouid make the moft 
 coftiy Supper) flie was going to throw into a glafs 
 of Vinegar, to macerate it (as flie had done ano- 
 ther before) and drink it up*: But M. Antony 
 Hopping her hand, and confefling himfelf over- 
 come,the Pearl faith Pliny % was put in the Ear of 
 Venus in th e Pantheon. In the round holes over 
 the Altars, were fet thofe Heads of the Gods of 
 the Heathens, which are now feenin the Belvede- 
 re of the Mafchere. This Temple and its Porch 
 were fo lined anciently with Brafs, that there was 
 enough of it to make divers great Cannons, by 
 Pope Vrbans Command, and the great Canopy 
 with the four Pillars which adorn St. Peter’s high 
 Altar. 'And though the People and Pafquin , two 
 equally fcnfelefs things, murmured much at the 
 taking away of this Brafs, yet feeing the Panthe- 
 on receiv'd no. damage thereby, ancffeeing it was 
 improv’d to«that heighth, that it became Ecclefi# 
 1 , Ornament urn'ty Vrbi Mmimentum, the wifer fort 
 
 of Men thought it well employed, and let the 
 People nnd Malice talk. I had almofl: forgot to 
 tell you that this Temple was made by Agrippa , 
 who had been thrice Conful , as the words in the 
 Architrave of the Porch yet fhew. 
 
 From hence I went through the Campo Marzo , 
 .S’. Lorenzo unt0 t * ie ' Church of St. Lorenzo in Lucina 9 which 
 in Lucina. is ferved by Clerici Regolari Minori. l.t^s an an- 
 cient Church neatly repaired of late, and the 
 greateft Parifh Church in Rowe v 
 the Palace From hence I went to fee the Palace of Bur - 
 0 )f Burg- ghefi , which is hard by. This is one of the no* 
 h £ fl« bleft Palaces in Rome. It gives you a fair Broad- 
 fide of Windows, three Stories one over another; 
 and its Length is Prodigious. Mounting up to 
 
 th* 
 
 
 
Part II. Si £Icpage tfeaut# Italy. 
 
 the Chambers I found a fair open Gallery built 
 upon Arches and Pillars round about the Court. 
 This Gallery lets you into feveral Apartments *, 
 and on that fide which overlooks the Piaz,z.a , I 
 faw a Row of ten or twelve great Chambers, 
 through which I looked at once. In thefe Cham- 
 bers,and theotherRooms I obferv’d thefe things, 
 i . Rich Hangings, and over rhetn rare Painting, 
 made by a Capucin Lay-Brother. The Hiltory of 
 the Queen of Sabas coming to vifit Solomons 
 Court* and the rape of the Sabines , which make 
 this Fregio over the Hangings, are fo rarely well 
 done, that Raphael and Michel Angelo could not 
 have mended them for Colours. 2. A great Cabi- 
 net of Ebony , fet with Hiiloriescaft in Gold, and 
 fet with rich Precious Stones * it's valued ac 
 threefcore Thoufand Crowns. 3. A rare pi- 
 cture of Hercules and Anteus. 4. Raphael’s own 
 Pi&ure. 5. The laft Supper, by Titian. tf.The 
 Terrafs and Garden, with Box, Knots and Foun- 
 tains of Water, all at the very top of the Houfe, 
 and overlooking the Street, River, Meadows 
 and St. Peters. 7. The little black Gallery of 
 Pi&ures, where among others I was (hewn the 
 Pictures of Martin Luther, Ntcolas Macchiavel , 
 and Cafar Borgia •, the two laft great Corrupters 
 of Policy and Manners. 8. The low cool Gal- 
 lery, full of Statues and Pictures, efpecially of 
 the Borghefian Family. That of Paulas Quintus 
 in a fmall Mofaick work is fcarce to be difcover’d 
 from Painting : as alfo the aflumption of our La- 
 dy in the fame work. There I faw alfo 1 itian s 
 own Pi£hire, and the rare Crucifix made by Mi- 
 chel Angelo , fo to Life, that fome Men have fa- 
 buloufly given out that he drew it after a crucifi- 
 ed Man. K k From 
 
1 4 6 0 Slopage t!)40Uglj Italy. Part II. 
 
 Maujoleurt From hence 1 went to the Maufokutn Augufti, 
 or t h e Tomb of Augiftm Cafar, Handing near 
 Sr. Rocl^s Church, in a place hard to be found out. 
 It was once One of the neatefl Stru&ures in Rome . 
 And it was but fitting that the firfl of the Empe- 
 rors fliould have an honourable Tomb ^ and that 
 he who having found Rome built of Brick only, 
 had left it all of Marble, lhould have a Marble 
 Monument ere&ed to him after his Death. Vr- 
 kcm Latcritiam invent, mar more am relinquo : 
 find Anguftns. The Manfoleum was a round 
 Suttm. Building of white Marble, going up with four 
 Stories fet round with Pillars, and each Story 
 growing kfler and letter, with green Trees fet a- 
 bout every Story $ having at the top of all, the 
 Brazen Statue of Auguftus. It was two Hundred 
 and Fifty Cubits high. But now it’s much de- 
 faced, and we fee fomething of the greatnefs of 
 it, but little of its Beauty. 
 
 Going from hence to the Church of St, Antony 
 S p f nt ' dl ^ a ^ Ha belonging to the Forntghep ‘ I faw the 
 a u ‘ h Tomb of the great Canonift and Cafnifi Navarre, 
 
 or Martin Afpelemta , with his Statue in Bufto o- 
 ver it. This good Man hearing how his great 
 Friend CaransLa was called to Rome to anfvver for 
 himfelf in Points of Do&rin, which he was falfly 
 accufed of, followed him thither of his own ac- 
 cord, to defend his caufe and clear his innocency, 
 and having done it, died here. 
 
 Near to this Church Hands the Church and 
 St ; Augu- Convent of the Auftin Friers. In the Church I 
 faw the Tomb of Sr. Monica , Mother to St. 
 Angst ft in. Here alfo lies buried Onufr'm Fanvinus 
 a Fryar of this Convent, learned in facred Anti- 
 quities, and in the Hebrew Tongue. In the Con- 
 vent 
 
Part IF. Hfljapage tfeOUffB Italy. 
 
 *47 
 
 vent I often faw the neat Library, called Biblio- 
 theca Angelica , becaufe Angelas Rocca , a Bifhop Bibliotheca 
 and Mafter of the Popes Sacrifty , gave it- at his An & eli * a - 
 Death to his Convent* with anObiigation of let- 
 ting i t be open in the Mornings. There a- 
 raong many curious Books, I remember to have 
 feen the Prophecies of Joachim , where a- 
 mong other things he faith, that the Turks (hall ^p* c \*** f 
 be overcome and ruined by three Nations: by th?TmkL 
 the French , propter bonoseqnos: by the English . 
 prof ter bonos marinarios : and by the F'enetian s prop- 
 ter bonnm con filium. Thefearehis very words. 
 
 Near to the aforefaid Church (lands the s t . 
 Church of St. Apollin arts , and the German Col- nam 
 lege. Here the bed Singers of Rome meet con- rhe Germ 
 ftaruly. _ 
 
 Over againfl: this Church (lands the Palace zo j 
 of the Duke of Altemps : In which I faw the great temps. 
 Hall, and in it the triumph of Baccnhs in a Baffo 
 relievo cut in Marble, with exquifite Art. Ifaw 
 alfo here the reprefentation of a Town cut in 
 Wood, an ancient and curious piece. The Pi- 
 cture of our B. Lady, with her Son in her Arms, 
 valued at fiveThoufand Piftols ; it is of Raphael's 
 Hand. The neat Library full of divers good 
 Manufcriptsand other Books. In fine, the noble 
 Chapel with the Tomb of S. Anaclet Pope,under 
 the Altar, with the Head of this Saint in the Sa - 
 cri&y , enchafed inSilver, and.fet thick with rich 
 Stones. The rich ornaments here for the Church 
 Service, cod the Duke an Hundred and twenty 
 Thoufand Crowns. 
 
 From hence in fine, I went to St. John Floren- 
 tins , a neat Church belonging to the Fiorentins , at 
 whofe coft it was built. Here is in one of the ci £™ 11 ' 
 
 K k z Chap- 
 
148 a aiopage tf Italy. Part II. 
 
 Chappels the pidure of our Saviour’s Refurredi- 
 on, made by Lanfranc y a rare piece. And be- 
 ing lodged near this Church, I found that I had 
 wandered all over Rome, and was now come again 
 to the Bridg of St. Angelo, where I began my firft 
 days Journey thro Rome. 
 
 But feeing that in fuch Towns as this, there is 
 always fomerhing to be feen after all, I made ma- 
 ny irregular excurfions up and down Rome, to 
 view many things which I had not taken in my di- 
 red way before: as Tome Palaces, fome rare Foun- 
 tains, divers Antiquities, (Indies of Virtuofi, and 
 the like, which I have been forc’d, for Methods 
 fake, to pafs over*, yet becaufe there are whole 
 Books of all the Palaces, Fountains, Statues and 
 Antiquities, fet forth in Cuts and P'idures, I re- 
 mit my Reader to them, while I ask one queftion. 
 
 Where are now thofe rare pieces of Antiquity 
 which Hiftories rather mention,than we find now 
 in Rome ? as the Cymboum Marti 5 the Gregoftafls 
 theCuria Hoftilia , the Golden Houfe of Nero, 
 Tertuliib. the Theater ot Pompey, of which Terwllian faith, 
 de speftac, Pomptius magnus folo fuo Theatro minor ; the 
 s. 10. Forum Nerva y the Theater of Statilim Taurus •, 
 the Septiz.onium Severi y the Tower of Mecanof-, 
 the Hippodromm, the Houfe of Gordianus$ the 
 Circus Flaminius ; the Circus Maximus 5 the Atri- 
 um Libertatis *, Scipio’ s Houfe 7 the Triumphal 
 Arch of Auguflto C<efar y of Domuian ? And a 
 World of other fuch rare building$,whereby the 
 Romans thought to have eternized their memo- 
 ries,; if you ask for. thefe things in Books, 
 you fhould find their names only, if yob look for 
 them now in Rome, yon fhMl find no marks at all 
 of them : which makes me cry out with Petrarch, 
 « Crede 
 
Part II. 3 tlOPcIffC t&OUglj Italy. 
 
 Crede mihi alii* quam lapideis fundament is eget glo- 
 ria, ut Jit man fur a : Believe me , true permanent glo- 
 ry Jlands in need of other Foundations than thofe of 
 Stone . Hence Janus Pit alls an ingenious Italian 
 Poet, having obferv’d that all the old maftive 
 Buildings of Rome are mouldered away, and that 
 Fluid Tyher only remains [till, cries out with 
 this fweet Moral, 
 
 D ifce hinc quid pojfit fortuna ; imnota lahafcunt 
 Et qua perpetuo funt fluitura , manent . 
 
 But I cannot leave Rome without taking notice, 
 of the Devotion, Mufic, Ceremonies, Shows, 
 Government, and the Inhabitants of this place:of 
 each of which I will give a touch, both for.my 
 Travellers fake, and my Readers. 
 
 And firft for the Devotion of Rome, I found 
 it to be very great and real in thofe places where 
 the Quarante Hore and Stations are kept. For 
 all the year long the Quarante Hore go from one’ 
 Ghurch to another, through all the Churches of 
 Rome ; and there you fhall always fee a world of 
 devoutPeople praying and meditating and hear- 
 ing the Sermons, and giving of Alms, and all 
 this with that profound refped and filence, with 
 that affiduity and concourfe, with that fervor 
 and zeal, that you need not a^k where the Sta- 
 tion is, but only obferve where you fee the Peo- 
 ple flocking fo fafl in the morning, and where 
 the Poor make the greatefi: Hedge and Lane, in 
 other Churches of Rome, upon their Feftival days 
 (which happen almofl: every day, in one place 
 or other) they have the belt Mulic can be got : 
 and though this feems to draw mensEars to the 
 K k 3 Church, 
 
 149 
 
 Petr arc. 
 
 In Remed . 
 
 utriufyue 
 
 Fort, 
 
 Devotion 
 in Rome. 
 
1 50 3 olopage tIj?GUg& Italy. Part IL 
 
 Church, rather than their hearts 9 yet when I 
 remember what elevated thoughts it breeds in 
 the mind, and how innocently it detains Men 
 from doing worfe, I cannot but place Church- 
 Mufic among the a&s of devotion. 
 
 The Mufti Now, as for this Mufic, it is the befl: in the 
 cf/Rome. world, and in the befl: kind, which is Voices.For 
 my part having read in a learned Author, that 
 the hating of Mufic is a fign of a Soul quite out 
 of tune, and not right ftrung for predeftination 9 
 and that the Scythian King, who held the neig h- 
 ing of his Horfe to be far better Mufic, than 
 the Pipe of famous Timothens 9 was held for an 
 Afs himfelf 9 I thought it both comely and law- 
 ful to love Mufic : And being in a place where 
 the befl: Mufic was, 1 frequented it often with 
 Angular fatisfa&ion. Now the beft Mufic I 
 heard, was the Mufic of the Popes Chappel , | 
 confiftiug of pure Voices, without any Organ or 
 other Inftruments : Every finger here knowing 
 liis part fo well, that they feem all to be Matters 
 of Mufic, Then the Mufic of the Chiefa iVo- 
 va 9 of S. Apollinaris 9 upon St. Cecilies day in the 
 Church of that Saint, the Patronefs of Singers 5 of 
 the Oratory of St. Marcello every Friday in Lent 9 
 of the Jefuits, during th zQuaranteHore in Shrove- 
 tide ; of every good Church of Nuns upon their 
 Patrons day; efpeciaily that of the Nuns of 
 Campo Marz.o^ where I heard often Fonfeca fing 
 fo rarely well, that fhe feemed to me, to cheer 
 up much the Church in its Combats ; and to 
 make the Church Militant , either look like the 
 Church Triumphant , or long for it. In a word, 
 whofoever loves Mufic, and hears but once this 
 of Rome , thinks he hath made a faying Journey 
 
 to 
 
Part II. a ftlcpaffe t6?cag:& Italy. 1 5 1 
 
 to Rome , and is well payed for all his pains of 
 coming fo far. 
 
 Having given my ears many a break-fad up. m c ,-re- 
 on the Mafic, I gave my eyes many a Colla- rtioniss * 
 tion upon the Ceremonies of Rome , which were 
 chiefly thefe. The Ceremony of the Popes o- 
 pening of the Porta Santa of| St. Peter s Church, 
 inth ejabile year. The Ceremonies of the Popes 
 Chappel, when he afliits there, efpecially upon 
 Candelmas-day , Palmfanday y Mamday-Thurfday , 
 
 &c. The Ceremony of the Popes wafhing of 
 thirteen Pilgrims Feet 3 of his finging Mafs pub- 
 lickly in St. Peters Church, upon St. Peter's fay, 
 and other great days ; the Ceremony of Beati- 
 fying and of Canonizing of Saints; theCeremony 
 of his creating newCardinals,& giving them their 
 Cap in public Confiftoty 3 the Ceremony of the 
 Mafs fung in Greeks and according to th z Greek, 
 rites, in the Church of the Grech Seminary , upon 
 the Feaft of the Efipbany , and St. At hana fists his 
 day 3 the Ceremony of Baptizing the Jews 3 with 
 a world of others.One Ceremony 1 was not un- 
 willing to mifs in my five feveral Voyages, be- 
 caufe it always implies the death of a Spiritual 
 Father, 1 mean, the Ceremony of a Sede Vacantc : 
 
 And of all the bad Compliments that ever I heard 
 made, I like none fo ill as that of a Noble Man 
 of Germany , who being asked by Pope Innocent 
 the X. whether he had feen all the Ceremonies 
 of Rome, anfwered, that he had feen all, but a 
 Sede Vac ante, as if he had faid; Holy Father, l 
 have feen all the fine fights of Rome, but your 
 death. A horrible Tramontane compliment, which 
 put even the Pope himfeif to a imiie. 
 
 K k 4 
 
 As 
 
15 * 
 
 The Shows 
 
 of Rome 
 Sacred. 
 
 p ethane. 
 
 0 &0Mge tfJIOtigi) Italy. Part II. 
 
 As for the Shows, I faw divers, both Sacred 
 and Prophane. As the whipping Proceifionsin 
 the Holy W^ek. The great Proceffion from St. 
 Marcello's Oratory to Sr. Peter s Church, upon 
 Mamday Thiirfday, in the Holy Year. The 
 Sfanijh Prccellion, in Piazza Navona , upon Ea* 
 fttr-day in the Morning, in the Holy Year. The 
 Procefiion oft he Zitelle upon our Ladies day in 
 Lem. The Proceifion of the Priefts of the Ora- 
 tory upon ShroveTuejdayfio the feven Churches \ 
 with five or fix Thoufand perfons following of 
 them, all whom they treat in an open field, gi- 
 ving every one a couple of hard Eggs, and a Hice 
 of fatpgia^ with Bread and Wine. Thefeveral 
 Cavalcata* s of the Pope and Cardinals. The Spa~ 
 nl(h Cavalcata upon St .Peters Eve,when then Spa- 
 nijh Embafiador prefents.the purfeof Gold, and 
 the Gennet. The Girandola and Fireworks upon 
 St. Peter s Eve and divers inch like facred Tri- 
 umphs. 
 
 For the prophane Shows, I faw the folsmn en- 
 tries of Embaffadors, cfpecially thofe of Obedi- 
 ence, where each Prince's EmbalTador ftrives to 
 out-vye the other , and by cxceffive expences, 
 make their Mailers Greatnefs appear above that 
 of others. Their Cavalcata s to Court upon their 
 public Audience : Their reception in a public 
 Confiftory : Their Audience of Leave are all 
 Lately. Then the curious Opera , or mufical 
 Drammata , recited with fuch admirable art, and 
 fet forth with fucli wonderful changes of Scenes, 
 that.ncthingcan be more furprizing.Here I have 
 feen upon their Stages, Rivers fwclling,and Boats 
 rowing upon them ^ Waters overflowing their 
 {tanks arid Stage*, Men flying in the Air, Serpents 
 
 craw*? 
 
Part II. 9 ajo m* Italy. j 53 
 
 crawling upon the Stage, Houles falling^n the 
 ftddain, Temples and Bofcos appearing, whole 
 Towns, known Towns, itarting up on the fud- 
 dain with Men walking in the Streets; the Sun ap- 
 pearing and chafing away darknefs, SugarPlumbs 
 fail upon the Spectators heads like Hail, Rubans 
 flafh in the Ladies faces like lightning, with a 
 Thoufand fuchlike reprefentations. In fine, the 
 Carneval pomps in the Streets, exhibited by No- 
 ble-men, with great coftand glory. 
 
 As for theGovernment of Rome, I found itz^G*. 
 divided into two parts: The Government of the vernment. 
 City, and the Government of the Church. That Rome ‘ 
 of the City is exactly performed by a Cover- Th/ttofthe 
 nor (fome Prelate of great parts) conftituted by C £J/ ** 
 the Pope, to watch over the City carefully, and 
 to render him an acccounc weekly, of all that 
 paffeth. This Governour liveth always in the 
 heart of the City, and hath befides his own 
 Guards, a Barigello or Captain of the Shinty or 
 Sergeants, to keep all in order and awe, both 
 day and night. This Barigello hath, Argm like, 
 an hundred eyes to fpy into the deportments of 
 all that live in Rome , and, Briarem like, as many 
 hands, to carry to prifon thofe that infringe the 
 Laws. Hence juftice here is as exactly perfor- 
 med, as Orders are defcreetly given out. ^ The 
 prizes of all things are printed and affixed in pub- 
 lick Places, and Shops Inns and Taverns are 
 bound to have them fet up in their entrance, 
 that ftrangers may know the rates of all provifi- 
 ons, and blame none but themfelves, if they be 
 couzencd. So that its as hard a thing to be con- 
 vened here, as its hard not to be couzened in o- 
 ther places* And for thofe that cannot read or 
 
1 54 3 dopge t&?OU|j!) Italy. Part II. 
 
 fpeak the Language well, Sbirri will ask of them, j 
 what they paid a Meal, how much for a pound 
 of Meat, how much for a Pint of fuch and fuch 
 Wine, &c. and if they find him to have been 
 couzened either in the quantity, weight, or price, 
 they! right the dranger beyond his expectation, 
 and punifh the delinquent beyond his defire. 
 The lad Jubile year I was fhewn fome of the Shir - 
 ri in Pilgrims habits, on purpofe to mingle 
 themfelves with the other Pilgrims, the better to 
 obferve how they were ufed or abufed by their i 
 Hods in Inns or Taverns, and accordingly pu- 
 nifb them. In fine, Judice is fo well adminidred 
 here, and imprifoning cafes fo many, that the 
 lad Prince of Conde being in Rome , faid he won- 
 dred much at one thing there, which was, to fee 
 fo many Men go out of their Houfes in the 
 Morning, and return home again to dinner, with- 
 out being imprifoned. A Knife in a Man’s Poc-» 
 ket, a dark Lanthorn, a Sword worn without 
 leave, ( ire. will fuffice to make a Man be fent to 
 Prifon ; and a Pocket Pidol found about you, or 
 in your Cloakbag, is enough to make you be 
 fet to the Gallies, with tre tratti di corda , that 
 is, drappada thrice *, yet they mitigate the rigor 
 of thefe Laws to Strangers, who offend out of 
 ignorance. 
 
 That of the ^ or t ^ ie Government of the Church that’s 
 
 church!"* done partly by the Pope himfelf,in feveral Con- 
 gregations held before him : Partly by his Vicar 
 General, a Cardinal who hath under him a Vice- 
 Gerent ( a Bifhop ) to help him. There’s fcarce 
 a day in the Week, but the Pope holds one Con- 
 gregation or other, about Church affairs, in 
 which Congregations, not only Cardinals inter- 
 vene, 
 
Part II. a (Hopage tljiouglj Italy. 1 5 5 
 
 vene, but alfo Bilhops and Dodors ; and where 
 all bulinfefles are headed as well as handled with 
 great deliberation. Every three weeks the Pope 
 holds a Confiftory , where all the Cardinals than 
 are in Rom , meet his Holynefs , as at a Grand 
 Council, to advife with him concerning the ne- 
 ceffary affairs of the Church. And its pretty to 
 fee, how, like the motions of a well ordered 
 Watch, all bufineffes here move at once, and 
 yet never interfere or clafh with one another. 
 
 As for the Inhabitants of Rome , they follow rhetrMbu 
 the fortune of their City, and as when Rome was tmts of 
 but yet a new Town, the Inhabitants were but Rome, 
 three Thoufand iaall, faith Dionyfins , and when 
 it was come to its full growth, it had three or 
 four Millions of People : Infomuch , that in a 
 great Plague, the Bills of Mortality came to ten 
 Thoufand Men a day, and this for many days 
 together: So now, Rome having been fix times Eufcb m 
 fack’d and ruin’d(as 1 faid above)isnotthe tenth ckrmc§. 
 part fo populous as heretofore it was } and even 
 thofe Inhabitants that are now in Rome , are, for 
 the molt part, originary from other parts of Italy 
 and Europe \ and have been drawn to take up 
 here, either by preferment or bufinefs. The 
 Nobility it felfis, for the major part, foreign, 
 and fprung out of fuch Families of Popes, Prin- 
 ces and Cardinals, as have been Foreign before 
 their promotions and preferments. The true. 
 
 Ancient and Illuftrious Roman Families, I found 
 to be thefe few, Vrfmi , Cohnna , Fawlli^ Fran - 
 gepani , and fome few others. 
 
 Having thus* as Painters do, taken Rome in nil 
 her poftures, I confefs it happened to me, as it 
 did to Jpelles , taking the Figure of C ompufpe \ 
 
 that 
 
Ca filed. E 
 
 t’j>- 
 
 Rome 
 
 1 $6 9 (Hopage tfiiougf) Italy. Part II. 
 
 that is, by looking fo often and fo attentively 
 upon Rome , I began to be lb far in love with it, 
 as not only to fubferibe to Caffiodorus his opini- 
 on, who affirms it to be a kind of crime not to 
 live in Rome , when you can do it. Piaculi gems efi 
 abfentem fibi Romam diums facer e, qni in ea confii - 
 tuns poffit lay thus habit are , but alfo to fubferibe to 
 our old Britain Kings, C adwallader^ Cedwalla f 
 Coenred , Offa y Jna and Bnrrhed , who thought 
 Rome alfo the belt place to die in. For if thofe 
 places be thought by all Men, the belt places to 
 a live in, where a Man may learn the moftexpe- 
 fine place to vhmnt'aX knowledg, and how to manage great 
 Uve in. affairs, where can a Man leap more knowledg 
 than in Rome ? Where all Languages are fpoken, 
 all Sciences are taught, the ableft Men of Europe 
 meet, all the belt Records are found, ail Wits ap- 
 pear as upon their true Theater, all Foreign Em- 
 bafTadors render themfelves, ail Nuncio's at their 
 return to Rome , unload themfelves of the obfer- 
 vations they have made abroad \ and where eve- 
 ry Stone almoft is a Book \ every Statue a Ma- 
 tter *, every Infcription a Leffon, every Anti- 
 chamber an Academy ? And again, if thofe pla- 
 jrfnd a fine ces be the beft to die in, where all comforts of 
 place to die ^ f ou i are beft . w h a t place can be better 
 to die in than Rome 1 The very Center and Bo- 
 fom it felf of Catholick Communion $ and where 
 there is fo much devotion, and fo much vertue 
 pra&ifed, and where you have this comfort in 
 your grave ; that you lie in a ground which hath 
 been bathed in the blood of fo many Thoufand 
 Martyrs, 
 
 And thus much of Rome , in the deferibing of 
 which, if 1 have been too Prolix , remember 
 
 that 
 
 m 
 
157 
 
 Part I!. a SJopage t&OUglj Italy, 
 that greatLadies are long in dreffing* if too /hort, 
 remember that I only relate what I faw there, 
 not all that is to be feen there. 
 
 Having thus feen Rome , I agreed with the Pro - My journey 
 caccio , to carry me to Naples. Others take with from Rome 
 them a V'etturino , that lets them have Horfes, '* Na P le ^ 
 and diets them too 5 I mean, defrays a Man for 
 Meat and Drink and Horfe* hire, both going and 
 coming, and your Horfe five days at Naples ( but 
 not your diet there ) and lets you have his Hor- 
 fes two days, to go fee Vefuvim and Pozzolo ; 
 and all this for fourteen or fifteen Crowns a Man, 
 
 ItYtrue, a Man is ill lodged, and badly treated 
 in that journey, but it doth a Gentleman good 
 to be acquainted with hardfhip. 
 
 Parting then from Pome by the Gate of St. John 
 Later an, we pafied through thefe places. Marino 
 
 Marino , a neat little Town belonging to Car- u 
 dinal Colonna. It looks like a painted Town. 
 
 Feletri , famous for the birth of the Ance/tors Vehtri. 
 of Auguftus Cafar , Here’s a brazen Statue of 
 Vrban the VIII. and a neat Palace and Garden 
 of Cardinal Ginetti. Its an Epifcopal Town. 
 
 The Tre Taberne where St. Paul was met, at Tre Ta- 
 his firft coming to Rome , by the Chriftians of berm. 
 Rome. Aft. i2. v. i 5 . 
 
 Peperno, where Camilla the Amazon was born. Peperno. 
 Fojfa Nuo'va , where St. Thomas of Aquin go- N,im 
 ing to the Council of Lyons , fell lick and died, 
 
 Taracina ( old Anxur ) the head Town of the Traan*. 
 Volfcians , but now bare and bald ; /hewing no- 
 thing but fome old ruins of theHeaven which^- 
 toninus Pius, here adorned } and of an old Tem- 
 ple. Its an Epifcopal Town. 
 
 Not 
 
« 5 * 
 
 Amy da. 
 
 Ssrv.in lib . 
 lo. Eve id. 
 
 Amyclasjt • 
 lent non 
 tredidi t. 
 Proverb. a- 
 
 puds. Hie- 
 
 ron 
 
 Fundi, 
 
 iso Afer. 
 
 £ Ooyage t&OUgij Italy. Part II. 
 
 Not far from hence flood anciently, the Town 
 AmycU 7 than Pythagorical Town which was ruin- 
 ed by Serpents, becaufe none would kill them 5 
 Pythagoras his Do&rin forbidding Men to kill a- 
 ny living Creature. Another time it was ruined 
 by filence 5 no Man daring to fpeak of the Ene- 
 mies coming 5 too many falfe Alarms having 
 made theMagiftrates forbid, under pain of death, 
 that no Man ftiould fpeak any more of the Ene- 
 mies coming *, fo that when they came indeed, 
 no Man durft fpeak of it. Thus, not only Phi- 
 lofophy, but even filence it felf and obedience, 
 two noble Vertues are hurtful to Men, if they 
 be not accomopanied with difcretion. 
 
 From Taricini we went to Fundi to Supper 5 
 having patted through a Foreft of Bay Trees, 
 and through an open Gate, called Portello y which 
 lets Men into the Kingdom of Naples , 
 
 Fundi is fo called, becaufe its built in a low 
 Flat. Its ancient, if you believe your Ears, not 
 your Eyes.. For it looks younger than the other 
 Towns 1 have pafied through before. The rea- 
 fon is, becaufe this Town was burned fome 1 30 
 years ago by Caradin Barbarous, Admiral of 
 the great Turk Solyman • It was this Caradin, 
 who, of a famous Pyi at, became King of Algiers , 
 having perfuaded thofe of Algiers to fhake off 
 the Spamjh yoke. This Caradin being upon the 
 Mediterranean Sea, and hearing, by his Spies, that 
 Julia Eonfaga ( widow of Vejpafian Colonna 9 zni 
 the handfomeft Woman in the World ) lived 
 here in Fundi 9 landed his Men in the Night, and 
 fent them to catch her nappingjrefol ved to make 
 a fine prefent of her to his leud Matter Solyman, 
 But fhe leaping out of her Bed, rid away in her 
 
 very 
 
159 
 
 Part II. 8 Qopase t&OUglj Italy. 
 
 veryLinne n, and efcaped fo narrowly, that had 
 (he (laid to put on any Cloaths, (he had for ever 
 put off all liberty. The Pyrats miffing of this 
 fair Helena , failed not to make a burning Troy 
 of Fundi * ranfacking it, and carrying away the 
 belt of its Inhabitants : Such dangerous things 
 are great Beauties to weak Towns. 
 
 From Fundi we went to Mela , upon the Tia 
 Appia, fo called, becaufe Appius Claudius , a No- 
 ble Roman made it, at his own coll, during 
 his Confulat . This Cawfey is one of the great- 
 eft Proofs of the Romans Greatnefs and Riches. 
 
 IhtVU 
 
 For it was five days Journey long ; beginning 
 at Rome and reaching through the Kingdom of 
 Naples to Brundufium. It was as broad as two 
 Carts might eafily meet upon it andpafs: It 
 was all of great black Flint Stones, each one as 
 big as two Men can carry, and laid fo dole to- See PIur - 
 gether, that they have held together thefe 1 800 inQracc °" 
 years, and feem, as Procopius faith ingenioufly . 
 to be rather Congeniti y than Congefti , bom 6G- /Xts'tb. 
 gether, than laid together. The frequent 
 paffing of Horfes and Mules (for fo many Years ) 
 upon this Cawfey, have made it both fo fmooth 
 and Alining, that when the Sun Alines upon it, 
 you may fee it glifter two Miles off, like a Silver 
 Highway. 
 
 Arriving at Molo , called anciently Fcrmia, I MoU Form 
 went to fee Cz'cero’jTomb, which ftands in a Gar- mi*. 
 den not far off. And 1 the more willingly be- 
 lieve it to be his Tomb, becaufe 'its certain, that 
 Tally had a Villa in Formiis (which was this place) 
 and thither he was going in his Litter , when he 
 was~overtaken by the executioners of the Trium - Max. 
 viri and Beheaded. There are no words upon /. c a 
 
 his 
 
1 60 a aiopage tl)?attg;& Italy. Part It 
 
 his Tomb5 of which if you ask me the reafon, 
 I can only tell you that either words in Profe 
 could not fpeak, their Tally being dead ;or Ver- 
 fes would not, out of Envy, praife him, who 
 had made Profe fo famous. 
 
 Having feen this, fome of our Company 
 and I took a Boat and four lufty Watermen 
 to row us to Caeta and back again, while the reft 
 flayed at Mola urprovide Dinnner. Arriving in 
 caefa. more ^ an an h our a t Caeta, we went 
 
 up to the Caftle where we faw the Sceleton of 
 Charles Bourbon , once Conftabie of France 5 but 
 afterwards taking againft his own King upon a 
 difguft, he ferved the Emperor Charles the V. 
 and was made one of his Generals and Gover- 
 nour of Milan . Where having borrowed Mo- 
 ney of the Milanefi , and laid a deep Curfe upon 
 himfelf,wifhinghe might die (in thefirft Enter- 
 prife he undertook ) if he paid not back the Mo- 
 The mjhop ny by fuch a time, he failed in his word, but his 
 of BeUey hi Curfe did not.For his next enterprife was to fade 
 m in ft or y. g ome . there his Curfe met him as hefcaled the 
 Walls 5 and being fhot with a Mufquet- Bullet, 
 he was forced to pay his debt to Nature. His 
 Body was carried to Caeta, where it ftands with 
 its Cloaths, Boots and Spurs on, in a long Box 
 ^ urbon ’ s ftreight up, with this Spani[h Epitaph over his 
 J } ' Head. 
 
 Francia mi Mo la lecche % 
 
 Efpagnalos y Ventura^ 
 
 Roma mi dio la muertc f 
 Caeta la Sepoltura . 
 
 France 
 
Part I L 3 aiapafle t&|OUg& Italy. 1 7 f 
 
 France gave me Milk , Spain Employments 
 
 gave, 
 
 Rom Qgave me Death^tnd here Caei* a Grave, 
 
 This Caftle (landing upon a Promontory o- 
 verlooketh the Town, and thirty Miles of Sea. 
 
 In the end of the Town, towards Land-fide, for Th . clovcn 
 this Town is a pure Peninjula, 1 faw the Cloven ^osk* ™ 
 Rock^ which Tradition here holds to have been 
 thus cloven at our Saviours Death, The long 
 Stairs going down between the two Mountains in 
 the very open gafh, and rendring you to a neat 
 Chappel below, ftrike you all the way long with 
 a facred Reverence. And are able almoil to rend 
 alfo a Stony Heart in two, with the thoughts of 
 our Saviour’s Paffion. 
 
 Upon the top of all this Promontory there is 
 an antient Monument of Manutius Plancns an old 
 Roman , with a great deal of old Latin upon it ; 
 but my riding Boots put me out of all reading 
 Humour, and I was very willing to let Plancns 
 lye quietly in his Monument above, foT could 
 but recover again our Boat and there fit dill. Of 
 this Town was the famous Cardinal Caetanus , of 
 St, Thomas Aquinas his Name, Order, and ai- 
 med Learning. This Town was built by ]Eneas 7 
 in honour of his Nurfe Caeta who died here. 
 
 Returning again to Mola , we went after Din- Cicero's 
 ner to fee Cicero's Grotte , and fo away. Grotte. 
 
 We had not ridden three hours but we came ^ 
 to the ferry of Carigliano , near to which I faw 0 y ^ 
 the fair Reds of an old Amphitheater Handing gliarto . 
 alone in the Fields,vvith the Reds alfo of an A- 
 queduft . I wondered at Srd to fee an Amphithea- 
 
 Li ter 
 
172 9 dosage tlptlgf) Italy. Part It 
 
 ter Handing alone, and far from any great Town : 
 but upon enquiry, I found that here had ftood 
 Minturna. once a noble Town called Mintnrna y but now fo 
 ruined that notone Stone of it appeareth. In- 
 deed we are often at this fault in Italy, and look 
 for Towns in Corn-Fields. Luna % Pofulonia, 
 Cutriity Baigy and Minturna cheat thus our Ex- 
 pectations, and leave us no Monuments of them- 
 felves, but a pure Fun llium y which though it 
 be Travellers lofs, yet it's Mans comfort, that 
 Towns do die as well as he : hence Rntilins 9 
 
 Non indignemnr mortalia Corpora folvi 5 
 Ctrnimns exentflis off Ida fojfe mri. 
 
 Having palled over the River in a Ferry-Boat, 
 Weentred upon the Meadows, in whofe Fens (cal- 
 led the Fens of Minturna ) Gains Marins lay hid a 
 while, and there with his ftern looks and manly 
 Voice, faying, dareft thou kill Cains Marins ? So 
 terrified the Slave fent there to kill him, that he 
 let him efcape to his Ship, and fc into Africk.ftz \ 
 Plutarch, may fpeak big that fpeaks for his Life* and any j 
 looks become a Man when he looks to himfelf 
 well in dangers. 
 
 While we rode along thefe Meadows we faw 
 before us the Mountain of 0*0, anciently called 
 Mans Matficus, famous for excellent Wines * as 
 well as the Country thereabout, which was called 
 Ager Fakrrms , fo famed by Poets for its tflnum 
 Falernum, 
 
 Pafiing thus along, we came at Night to St. A- 
 gathasy and the next Morning betimes we entred 
 Campania * nt0 Cam ? an ' u Felix r lo furnamM becaufe of its 
 j?cefe admirable Air, wonderful plenty of Corn and 
 
 Wine, 
 
Part II. 92l0|>agc tfjjaugfj Italy, j 63 
 
 Wine, and pleafant Profpedts on all fides, which 
 makes an Ancient call it, Cert amen Cereris & Bac- 
 chic the ftrife of Ceres and Bacchus. It was this 
 Country which, with its delights hr okz Hannibal's 
 Army 3 which neither Snow could cool, nor 
 Alpes flop, nor Romans vanquifh, fath Seneca. 
 
 Indeed the pleafarunefs of this Country made us 
 a full mends for all the ill way we had before : 
 
 Nature having fet that fcurvy way there on pur- 
 pofe that we might like her Favourite Campania 
 the better after it. I call this Country Natures 
 Favourite, in imitation of Pliny , who calls it Opus 
 gaudentis nature, that is, a Country made by 
 Nature when fhe was in a good humour. It 7 s 
 an Heathen that (peaks, and you mull pardon 
 him. 
 
 We intended that day to have gone to Capua 
 to Dinner 5 but when we came thither, we did Capua, 
 not find it at home. For this Town now called 
 Capua is two Miles diflant from the place where 
 old Capua flood. Indeed the old Capua was a 
 Town of Importance ; for it was either the fe- 
 cond or third in the World ; and flood in Com- 
 petition, as Carthage did with Rome. Nay it de- 
 manded of Rome to be ufed like a Sifler,not like a 
 Subject ; and flood high upon it, that one of the 
 Annual Confuls fhould always refide here. But 
 that Capua is vanifhed with its vanity j and this 
 Capua hath no reafon to be fo proud, being fa- 
 mous for nothing but that a&ion of many nobfe 
 Women here, who to avoid the Infolencies of^ r 
 the French Soldiers ( received into the Town 
 friendly ) leapt into the River Vulturno to fave rib. EccUf. 
 their Virginity and Honour, from their leudnefs : 
 an action rather wonderful, than warrantable. *$^1] 
 L 1 2 There * ' ' 
 
174 33Iopage tfj?GU0f) Italy. Part II. 
 
 There is a Cattle here of precty Strength, a 
 good River, and an Arch- Bijhop’s Seat. 
 sfvcrfa. From Capua we parted through Averfa, a 
 fweet Seat of a Town, and once great, till Charles 
 the I, King of Naples, almoft ruined it* It’s a 
 Naples. Kifnops feat ftill. Here it was that Queen Joanne 
 1 of Naples ftrangled her Husband Andreajfo y and 
 was her felf not long after ferved fo too in.the 
 fame place. Travelling fome eight Miles farther 
 we came to Naples before we could fe? it. This 
 Town wasantiently called Parthenope , from one 
 of the Syrens . It’s now called Neapolis , a new 
 Rowuaido cit Y ? becaufe the Inhabitants of Cuma having 
 in his Cro- out of Jealoufy ruined Parthenope, were fore vex- 
 mlog. Trea* ed with a Plague, till they had built it up again 
 J or • better than before. This happened about the 
 
 year of the World, 1 449. 
 
 As for Naples, it’s no w the head of a great King- 
 dom, fo called. This kingdom belonged once to 
 the Emperor : But after that it had been over- 
 rhc King . run By Sarazens, and freed by Pope John the X, 
 Naples un ^ te d with Alberico, Marquis of Tufcany, it ac- 
 knowledged the Church for its Miftrefs, and the 
 firft Man that was inverted by the Pope ( Inno- 
 cent the II, 1 130.) was Roger the Second, a Nor - 
 a man. Since that time the French and the Spani- 
 ard have ftrugled hugely for this Kingdom-, fome- 
 tiraes the one plucking it to him, then the other. 
 But now its under the Spaniard, who holds it 
 of the Pope, and for it payeth every year the 
 Purfe of Gold, and the Gennet fpoken of above. 
 
 This Kingdo/n is of great importance to Spain . 
 f ? It: makes his Party too ftrong for France in Italy . 
 
 Spain ' Ir C0rr€ fr 0 nds conveniently with Sicily, and Mi- 
 lan: And ftrengthens them both. In fine, it bear- 
 
 eth 
 
Part II. a (Horace tfjiouglj Italy. 175 
 
 eth up notably the Intereft of Spain in the 
 Court of Rome : And it fqueezeth it felf now and 
 then into huge Sums, four millions of Crowns, 
 to fend Tribute into Spains Coffers. For this 
 Kingdom is a Thoufand five Hundred Miles in 
 Compafs, four Hundred and Fifty wide. It hath 
 in it twenty Arch-Bifhops Seats 5 an Hundred 
 and twenty five Bifhops Seat ? A Thoufand o'* 
 five hundred Bourghs 5 two millions of Souls : ™j}. 
 
 Ten Principalities •, twenty three Dntehm\ thirty 
 Marquifats j Fifty four Counties j and about a Ns 
 Thoufand Baronies, whereof four Hundred are Siren z tht 
 Ancient : It can raife an Hundred and fifty T hou- 
 fand Foot,and an hundred Thoufand Horfe. It’s 
 ordinary Squadron of Gallies are but twenty. 
 
 As for the Town it felf of Naples , if it be the 
 third of Italy for greatnefs, it is the fir ft for V,0 J TrA>?i 
 ftrength and neatnefs 5 and therefore deforvedly fl / Na P les ’ 
 furnamed La Gentile , the Gentile. It hath Cam- 
 pania on one fide of it, and the Mediterranean 
 Sea on the other : So that it’s fed by Natures beft 
 Dugs, Sea and Land. Its Air was always e- 
 fteemed fo pure 5 that the great Men of Rome 
 had either their Villas, in Naples, or hard by. It's 
 well built, well paved, well furnifhed with excel- 
 lent Provifions, well filled with Nobility, and 
 the Nobility well mounted. The chief ftreet is 
 Strada di Toledo , Paved with Freeftone, and 
 flanked with noble Pallaces and Houfes. We 
 entred into fome of them, and others we faw 
 which had not recovered their emponpoint fince 
 they had been fick of Maz.ienello’ ) s Difeafe : Their 
 very looks fhewed us that theirSicknefs had been 
 Convulfion-Fits. The chief Palaces are thefe : 
 
 The ftately Palace of the Viceroy, that of Gra* 
 
s 66 3 aiopage Italy, Part IL~ 
 
 Carajfa , Vrfiio, Salmons , Toledo , &c. 
 Moft of the Houfes of A/ty/e* are made flat at 
 top, to walk upon : A moft convenient thing to 
 Breath upon in the frefli Evenings ,and eafy to be 
 imitated by other Countries. 
 
 I faw here alfo the feveral publick places of 
 Aflembliesof the Nobility, according to their 
 feveral ranks. Thefe places are like open walk- 
 ing places, rail’d about with high Iron Rails* 
 and painted within. 
 
 % he MqIo. Then the Molo running a quarter of a Mile 
 
 into the Sea, and affording great refrelhrnent to 
 the Towns-Men who walk here in the Evenings 
 in Summer, where they are fure to cool their 
 Lungs with a fweet Frefco. At the end of the 
 Molo fhnds mounted the high Lantern, to di- 
 red Ships home fafe in the Nighty and a fine 
 Fountain of frefli Water; 
 
 Th? As for the Churches here they yield to none 
 
 Churches in Italy. The Bomo is antient, and therefore 
 Naples, out of the mode a little: Yet it hath a modern 
 Chappel which is very Beautiful : and is one of 
 the fineft in Europe, both for Brazen Statues, 
 and rich Painting. The Cupola was painted by 
 the rare hand of Dotnenichino . In this Chappel 
 is the Tomb of St. Januarius , Bifhopof Benevent, 
 and now Patron of this Town whofe Blood be- 
 ing conserved in a little Glafs, and Concrete, 
 melts and grows liquid when it is placed near to 
 Biro nius his Bead, and even bubbles in the Glafs, A 
 r- Brcvla- French Nobleman, Count of La Val, was con- 
 rum RoKt verted from Calvinifm to the Catholick Religion 
 upon light of this Wonder. On the Left-hand 
 of this Chappel without, lies Buried Pope Inno- 
 cent the IV. who ordered firft, that Cardinals 
 
 fhould 
 
Part II. 9 fllopase tfeotlfj;!} Italy, 167 
 
 fhould wear red Hats, The Verfes upon hisTomb Petrus a$t. 
 told me this. In the Sacrifty are kept many pre- Romua,<, ° 
 cious gifts of Princes, and divers Relicks of Saints 
 enchafed in Gold and Silver. an. 1604. 
 
 The Anmtnciata is both neat and devout : The Thg ^ 
 Cupola and Roof are well painted and guilt.The 
 two Infants of Bethlehem with their feveral 
 Wounds, one in the Head, the other the Body, 
 are (hewn here. The Hofpital is joyningtoit, 
 and is of great reception: It maintains two Thou- 
 fand Sick and Decrepid in it; befides above eight 
 Hundred Orphans and poor Children. 
 
 Near the great Hofpital Hands St. Peters 
 Church, and before it the Altar upon which fas 
 the Infcription faith ) St. Peter faid Mafs at his 
 firft coming to Naples. 
 
 The Theatins Church called St. Pauls , is very St p au j 0 
 neat ; and if you faw it with its bell Hangings 
 on, you would think it one of the neateft 
 Churches in Italy. The Roof is curioufly paint- 
 ed and guilt. Here I faw the rich Tomb of Beato 
 Coetano a holy Man of this Order, and the Ta- 
 bernacle of the high Altar, both very Rich. In 
 the Sacrifty they have as rich Ornaments as in 
 any Church of Italy. 
 
 The Jefuits Church here is the beft they have The 
 in Italyji it be not a little too wide for its length. Qhurcb ' 
 
 In the Sacrifty I faw the richeft ornaments for 
 the Altars, and the beft Silver Candlefticks that I 
 have feen any where elfe. It’s rich in Painting, 
 Sculptures, and Marble. The High Altar was not 
 yet finilhed, but promifeth Wonders. 
 
 The Francifcans Church, called St. Maria ^ 
 
 Nova , is very trim, with its neat Chappels and ^ 0 y a< ariJ 
 Tombs, and guilt Roof. Here I faw the Tomb 
 
 Ll 4 of 
 
I? s a Oovage t!j20UB& Italy. Part IT. j 
 
 of Lotretch-, who commanded fo long the French 
 Forces in this Kingdom. His Virtue in Milica- 
 ry affairs was fo great, that his very Enemies ad- < 
 miring his worth, have caufed his Body to be 
 translated out of an obfcure place, where it lay 
 before, into this Church and Tomb. I wonder 
 they did not caufe thefe words of Virgil to be put 
 upon it. 
 
 ^ — — Si Ter gam a dextra 
 
 Defendi pojftm etiam hac defenfa fuiflent. 
 
 / ' Tb' - ;: V . 
 
 Dmim The Church of the Dominicans is very hand- 
 n'.lans fome too, if you do not furprize it, and take it 
 church . before it be dreffed. 1 faw it once in its bell at- 
 tire, hung with a rare fuit of Embroidered Hang- 
 ings, which fet it out with great advantage. I 
 faw alfo here, the Crucifix which fpoke to St.Tho- 
 mas of A quin, the Doctor of this Order and 1 
 Country, and faid, Bene de me fcripfifti Tboma. 
 In the Sacrifty of this Church are kept in feve- 
 ral Coffins (feme covered with white, lome with 
 black Velvet ) the Bodies of feveral great Per- 
 fons, depofited here till their Tombs Ihould be 
 made : As of Alpbonfo the firlt. King of Naples 
 and Arragon : Of Queen Joanne the unfortu- 
 nate : That of an Emperor of Constantinople : 
 That of Durango: That of the Marquis of Va- 
 n's : with divers others. 
 
 The Ohve • The Church of the Olivet anVzthzxs is {lately : 
 
 tam\ Here lies buried Alexander ah Alexandro , a great 
 Antiquary, whofe ingenious Book Genialium die- 
 rum, gives light to many Books, by the unlhel- 
 lingof a world of antient cultoms of the Ro- 
 mans, In this Church alfo is the Tomb of brave 
 
 Marchefe 
 
part II. a (Hopage t(j?0tlglj Italy. 1 79 
 
 Marchcfc di Ptfcara, furnamed the Thunderbolt 
 of War. The words upon this Tomb are fo 
 ingenious ( that though I profefs not to fet down 
 many Epitaphs in this my Voyage) I cannot but 
 ftrive to carry them into other Countries, They 
 are thefe. 
 
 Quisjacet hoc gelido fub mar more ? Maximus ilk 
 Pifcator , belli gloria,, facts horns. 
 
 Nunquid & hie fifees cefit ? Non . Ergo quid I 
 Vrbes , 
 
 Magnanimos Reges , oppida, regna , Duces. 
 
 Die quibus hac cepit Pifcator retibus I Jllto 
 Confilio , intrepido corde, alacrique mann . 
 
 £fui tantum rapuere ducem ? Duo Numina y AEars^ 
 
 Mors . 
 
 Vt raperent quidnam compulit Invidia. 
 
 Nil nocuere ipfi j vivit nam Fama fuperftes , 
 
 £ht(Z Martem & Mortem vincit , & Invidiam. 
 
 The Church of St.John Carbonare isconfide- 
 rablefpr it felf, but much more for the (lately 
 Tomb in it, of King Robert . In the Church 
 of the Nunnery which Hands at the foot of the 
 Hill, as you go up to the Carthufians , I faw a 
 moft curious Tabernacle upon the Altar, of pre- 
 cious polilhed Stones. Its one of the richeft I 
 have feen any where, but that of Florence deferi- 
 bed above. 
 
 Then we mounted up that winding Hill of the The fiat fly 
 Carthufians Church and Monaltry, called Sr. 
 
 Martin's. It’s the moft fumptuous thing in ail 
 Europe for a Monaftry, whether you regard it’s 1 
 fituation,or it’s fabric. It's htuated upon an high 
 Hill under the wing of the Gaflle St. Elmo , to 
 
 put 
 
i 70 a dosage Cfptlgf) Italy. Part fit. 
 
 put Cattles in mind, that they ought to defend 
 and protect Religion. The whole Quadrangle, 
 or Cloifter of this Monattry , is of pure polifhed 
 white Marble, paved with Marble fquares, and 
 adorned round with a Balufter, and white Mar- 
 ble Pillars. Then entring into an open Gallery, 
 we had as fine a ProfpeS as Europe can afford, 
 $arcly. iron not excepting that of Greenwich, thought by Bar* 
 Anir^rum. day , the belt Profpedt in Europe. For here I faw 
 ail Napte s under me, with the perfedt fight of the 
 two other Cattles, with the Haven, the Molo , 
 the Arfenal , the Ships, the Country round about 
 Naples , Mount ^efavius, Paufilipus , the Ships at 
 Sea, the Promontories of Mifenum and Miner- 
 va, the Ifle of Caprea , with a world of other 
 delightful lights. Then I was led into the apart- 
 ment of the Padre Vifitatore , where I fawmoft 
 neat Rooms, and fome good Pictures. Then 
 going to the Church, I found it to exceed the 
 Cloy fter, which before I thought to have exceed- 
 ed ail other things. It’s all of Marble, gilding 
 and painting. The Pavement is all of curious 
 red and white Marble fquares as alfo the Sa- 
 crifty. The Chappels and Pictures match the 
 roof, and the Pillars with their particular Gra- 
 ces. The Sacrifty is abfolutely the richeftl ever 
 faw. The great Cupboards are of fuch a rare 
 Mofaic wood work, inlaid into Pictures, that it 
 difputes hard with the Quire of Dominicans in 
 Bologna . Here they (hewed me a great Crucifix 
 of Silver, which had been fifteen years in ma- 
 king. The Remonflrance to expofe the B. Sacra- 
 ment in, is made like»a Sun, whofe Beams are 
 mingled with Silver and Coral. The great Can- 
 dkfticks of Maflive Silver,and the great Flower- 
 pots are curioufly wrought. Then 
 
Part II. a Oiopag e tfeOUfi# Italy, j 7 x 
 
 Then I went to fee the three Caftles; That 
 of St. Elmo, which is hard by the Carthufians , CajHe st. 
 was built by Charles the V. It (lands well upon El ™°- 
 its own Guard, by reafon of its high lituation : 
 
 But I doubt whether it can offend any enemy, 
 except Naples it felf, which is under it. 
 
 The Cattle Vo<vo was built by William the Caftl e Fo r 
 third of Normandy, upon a rock in the Sea ;and 
 from its oval form, is called C aft el vow. There 
 is a digue leading unto it from the Land. 
 
 The Caftle Nitovo was built by Charles of An- Ca ^ 
 jou , defigned King of Naples . It (lands near the Nu0V9r 
 Molo , and level with the Town and Sea, as if 
 it could defend and offend both. 
 
 Thefe three Cattles are guarded by natural 
 Spaniards and well furnifhed with great Can- 
 nons, by whofe language ( which is ultima ratio 
 Regum, Kings laft Arguments ) the Neapolitans 
 are either Catechifed into duty, or threatned 
 into obedience. Indeed, fuch a People and Town 
 are not eafily bridled ; Such a wanton Courfer 
 as Naples , is not to be ridden with Snaffles ; it 
 hath often plunged under the King of Spain , 
 but could never fling him quite out of the Sad- 
 dle, merce a gli tre Caftelli. 
 
 Then I went to fee the Markets here,and found Me Mn 
 them moft admirable, efpecially thofe of Fruit, * eTSm 
 which Campania fends hither : And were but 
 the Taxes taken off, or reafonably moderated, 
 
 Naples would be thecheapeftand richeft place in 
 the world. But the Kings Officers, if they fuck 
 in Milan , and fleece in Sicily , they fley in Na- 
 ples, which ufage drove the People fome years 
 paft, into fuch a defperate humour, that they 
 took up Arms, under the command of Ma- 
 . <■ z,aine!o 
 
I$2 9 (Homage Italy. Part II. 
 
 zanello ; His true Name was Thomas Annlm 
 Maia^ a poor Fifher-man, without Stockings or 
 Shooes, who, for ten days together, fwagger’d 
 here fo powerfully in the Head Two hundred 
 thoufand mutinous People, that when he com- 
 manded them to burn a Houfe, they did it: 
 When he commanded them to caft into the Fire 
 all the Goods, Papers, Plate, Beds, Hangings, 
 &c. of the Gabelliers , they did it without refer- 
 ving the leaft precious Piece to themfelves : 
 When he commanded them to cry out, Down 
 with the Gabells , they did it: When he put his 
 Finger to his Mouth, they were all filent again ; 
 as if this poor Filher-man had been the Soul that 
 animated that great Body of People : It was pro- 
 digious indeed,that fuch a poor young Man (not 
 pad Twenty three) in Waftecoat and Drawers, 
 and his Fifhers Cap on, fliould find fuch Obe- 
 dience from fuch Rich and Witty Citizens. But 
 as Tumultuous People make Arms of every thing 
 their Fury meets with, fo they make Captains of 
 every Man that will but head them ; and as the 
 Proverb goes, In [editions vel Androclides belli 
 discern agit. They (hewed me the Houfe of this 
 Fifher-Man •, but the other Houfes (hewed me 
 his Fury. Thoufands have not yet recovered 
 thofe ten days Tumults. Thus we fee, that when 
 Men are ripe for Rebellion, Cromwells and Ma- 
 z^anells are cried up for great Men : Or rather, 
 when God hath a mind to puniih, Flies and Gnats 
 are powerful things, even againft Princes. 
 
 The Acade- Here are two Academies of Wits, the one cal- 
 
 mies of led the Ardently to (hew their Ardor in ftudy- 
 ing : The other the Otiofi , wifely inftituted as 
 an allay to the others Hear 0 
 
 Some 
 
Part K. 9 ftlopage t^OUg!) Italy. 1 
 
 Some of the famous Men for Learning of this Lear 
 Town, were old Statins, rare SamazarMs, A - Men, 
 lexander ab Ale x an dr o, and John Baptifl Marini : 
 three excellent Poets, and one Antiquary. Na- 
 vies hath furnifhed the Church with eighteen 
 Popes. 
 
 Having thus feen the Town it felf of Naples , l 
 was moll willing to fee the Wonders of Nature, 
 which are near unto it. Horfing therefore be- 
 times one Morning, we went with a Guide to fee 
 Vefuv'm , the burning Mountain, fome feven Mm%m 
 miles diflant from Naples. Our honeft Guide tain Vefu- 
 had ftudied the Hiftory of this Hill, and could vius * 
 tell how often it had broken forth into Flames, 
 fince the beginning of the World, that is, twenty 
 times. Xiphilims the Epitomifl of j Dio, relates 
 at length, one that happened under the Emperor 
 Titus. But the lafl which happened in the year 
 1631. he remembred very well, and related it 
 to me as we went along, with a fad Preface, of 
 
 Jnfandum Feregrine jubes renovare dolor em, 
 
 becaufe he could alfo fay, 
 
 . — Et quornm pars magna fui , 
 
 haying been an A&or in that Diforder, For he 
 wasSon to a rich Husbandman here, and with 
 much ado, BLneat like, he had refcued his old 
 Father from the Alhes of V'efuvim, which over- 
 whelmed and buried whole Villages. Here faid 
 he, pointing to the place, flood a great Vineyard, 
 oneofthebeft of the Country 3 bnt now three 
 fathom deep in Alhes. Here flood a Village full 
 
a (Llopage tfjiouglj Italy. Part II. 
 
 of rich Husbandmen and goodly Houfes ; bi?t 
 now ruin'd by the Stones fhot at it from V'ejuvm . 
 Here ftood once a pleafant Vita, beautified with 
 curious Walks, Orange-trees, Fountains and 
 Arbors, but Jam cinis eft nbi villa fuit . In a 
 word, above Two thoufand People were burnt, 
 lamed or ftifled in this Eruption. Then he ihew- 
 cd me the vaft Stones, which overcharging the 
 Stomach of Fefnvius^ he had vomited up, with 
 fuch a boaking, that Naples thought the day of 
 Judgment had been at hand. Then he (hewed 
 me a Channel, where a River of fiery green 
 matter, mingled with Brimftone, Ailum, Iron, 
 Water, and Salt-Petre, had run from that fpew- 
 ing Hill. T he manner of its breaking out was 
 thus : The Hill began firft to fmoke more ve- 
 hemently than before : Then it flamed and call 
 out a Cloud of Afhes, which, had the wind ftood 
 toward the City, had cover’d all Naples , and 
 buried it in thofe Aflies : Then it began to roar , 
 as if Madam Nature her felf had been in Labour? 
 T hunder was but Piftol-crack to this noife : And 
 the mouth a Cannon a full mile wide, muft 
 needs give a great report. It bellowed and thun- 
 dered again: Naples trembled: The Ground 
 fwelled : The Sea it felf (hiver’d for fear, when 
 the Hill tearing its Entrals with huge violence, 
 was brought to Bed of a world of vaft Stones, 
 and a flood cf Sulphurous Matter, which rant 
 from the top of the Mountain into the Sea, for 
 the fpace of three Miles. All this he told me, 
 and this he fhew’d me afterward, in a public In- 
 fcription, upon a fair Marble Stone eredted hard 
 by. And all this made me but the more deft- 
 rous of feeing this Mountain. Wherefore fpur- 
 
 ring 
 
Part II. a Glm&Z t6?OUff6 Italy. 175 
 
 ring on, we came foon after to the foot of the 
 Hill j where leaving our Hories, we began to 
 crawl up that deep Hill for a good mile toge- 
 ther, to the mid-leg in allies. At laft, with much 
 ado, we got to the top of the Hill ; and peeping 
 fearfully ( remembring Pliny 9 s accident) into the 
 great hollow, from the brink of it, found it to 
 be like a vaft Kettle, far greater than thofe Hell 
 Kettles, near Diflington, in the Bilhoprick of 
 Durham, made by Earthquakes. For theOri- See Bakers 
 fice of this Kettle is a Mile or two wide, and ve- Chrmic ' in 
 ry nigh as deep. In the bottom of it, is anew HenriC '' 3m 
 little Hill, rifing out of the hollow of the old, 
 and fuming perpetually with a thick Smoke, as 
 if it alfo would play tricks too in it’s turn. Ha- 
 ving gazed a while at this Chimney of Hell (for 
 Tertullian calls JEtna and Vefuvm, Fumariola in He ^ t 
 ferni) we came fader down than we went up. He chimney u 
 that is not content with this my (hort defcripti- 
 on of the burning of this Hill, let him read jfo- 
 Um C&far Recufitus , who hath made a little 
 Book alone of it, called, Ds ft] uviano inctnAh 
 Nuncius . 
 
 Having recovered our Horfes again, we came 
 back to Nafles *, and the next Morning, taking a 
 new Guide, we went to fee the wonders of Na- 
 ture about Bau and Puz*z.nolo. 
 
 Horfing then again betimes in the Morning, 
 we palfed by the Caftle Vo^, and foon after to 
 Margtlino , to fee the Tomb of Sanrtaz.arius the 
 Poet, who lies buried in the Church of Santa 
 Maria Ad Porto , which was once Sannaz.arias 
 his own Houfe, which dying, he left to be made 
 a Church of, under that Title : So that in his Tm ± 
 Teftament, he wrote At firgims fartu, as well 
 
1 8 9 a SLtoya&e tfROUgB Italy. Part II. 
 
 as in bis Book : And he might as well have writ- 
 ten upon the Frontifpice of this Church, as upon 
 the Frontifpice of his Book -Opera Sannaz.arii dc 
 Virginis partit. His Tomb here is adorned with 
 Marble figures, and with this ingenuous Epitaph 
 made of him by Cardinal Bumbo. 
 
 Da [aero cineri f lores . Hie ille Maroni 
 Sincere Mu>\a proximus , nt tumulo , 
 
 His name was Jacobs Sannaz^ariusy but he chan- 
 ged his name for that of Sinceras , at the requefc 
 of Pontams , who alfo changed his Name too, 
 and caufed himfelftobe called Jovianus , as Jo- 
 vius, in Elogiis virorum dottornm^ faith. Not far 
 off this place, nor far from the entrance of the 
 Grom of Pau/Uipusy in the Gardens of St. Seve- 
 ral's Y ' mo > ftands VirgiP s Tomb, covered almoft over 
 Tomb. with Laurel, or Bay-trees : As if that Poets Lau- 
 rel were grown into a fhady Bower, to make a 
 whole Tomb of Laurel for the Prince of Poets* 
 From thence we returned again into our way, 
 and prefently came to the entrance of the Grotte 
 of Paufilipits. This Mountain lying at the very 
 back of Naples , and rendring the paffage to Na* 
 pies extremely inconvenient for carriages, it was 
 thought fit to cut a Cart-away under Ground, 
 quite through the Mountain: Some fay it was 
 Lncnllasy that caufed it to be thus boared : Ci- 
 thers fay it was Coccem Nerva, Certain it is, 
 that it is antient, feeing Seneca makes mention 
 of it. 
 
 lh Grot , e Encring into the Grotte of Panfilipus^ we found 
 cf Paufiir it to be about forty Foot highland broad enough 
 po. for two Carts laden to meet with eafe. They 
 
 % 
 
Part IL 3 (Homage tfROtlg& Italy. 187 
 
 fay here that it is a full Mile long; but I thought 
 it fcarce fo much. We rid fome forty paces 
 by the light of the wide Entrance ; but that 
 vanifhing,we were left in the Dark a good while, 
 till we came to the half way, where there hangs 
 a burning Lamp before the Pi&jure of our Savi- 
 our in theB. Virgins Arms. The light of this 
 Lamp was very grateful unto us 3 and I am con- 
 fident a Puritan himfelf, were he here, would be • 
 glad to fee this Lamp and Pi&ure,and love them 
 better for it ever after. All the way of this 
 Grotto, is very even and level,but hugely dully 3 
 as a Room mull be that hath not been fwept 
 thefe fixteen Hundred Years. The People of 
 the Country meeting here in the Dark, know 
 how to avoid one another, by going from Naples 
 on the right hand, and returning on the left 3 
 that is, by keeping on the Mountain fide going, 
 and returning on the Sea-fide : And this they ex- 
 prefs by crying out often ; A la Montagna, ora 
 la Marina 3 to the Mountain- fide, or to the Sea-fide , 
 to give notice whether they come, or go. Our 
 Guide underilood the Word, and he gave it 
 unto me, and I to my next Man, it ran through 
 our whole Brigade , which confilled of a dozen 
 Horfemen in all. Almoft all the way we rid in 
 it, we (hut our Eyes, having little ufe of them ? 
 and our Mouths and Nofes too, for fear of being 
 “ choaked with the Dull : So that our exterior 
 Senfes being thus (hut up, our Interior began to 
 work more freely, and to think of this odd place. 
 
 My thoughts, coming newly from Sannaz.arm 
 and Virgils Tombs, fell prefently upon Poetry, * 
 
 ( for all this Country is a Poetical Country) and 
 1 began to think whether this were not Polyphemus 
 & • “ Mm b\s 
 
188 SI (Uowp tf)?OUgl) Italy. Part II- 
 
 his Den, becaufe Homer makes it to have been 
 near the Sea-fide, as this is, and capable of hold- 
 ing great Herds of Sheep, as this alfo is. Some- 
 times 1 thought that it might have been here, 
 that Jupiter was hidden from his devouring Fa- 
 ther, 'Saturn, who came into Italy for certain % 
 as alfo becaufe Sophpdes makes mention of Jupi- 
 ter Faujilipns , Bi/t at lafl; I concluded that this 
 was the place where merry Gods and Goddeffes, 
 after their jovial Suppers, plaid at Hide and 
 Seek, without being Hood-wink’d. By this 
 time we began to lee the other end of the Grot a 
 far off, by a little Light which grew grater and 
 greater, till at laft we came to the Iffue of it. 
 ontu del Being got out of this Cymmerian rode, we be-r 
 La * e * gan to open our Eyes again to fee if we could ‘ 
 find one another , and our Mouths too to dif- 
 conrfe upon this exotick place. Thus we rid 
 difcourfing upon this Wonder, till we came to 
 the Grotta del Cane, a new Wonder. 
 
 Arriving there we prefently had a Dog rea- 
 dy ( though for the moft part the Dogs here run 
 whining away when they fee a troop of ftrangers 
 arrive) and I faw the Experiment of that famous 
 Grotta , which being but three yards within the 
 fide of the Hill, may be feen without entring into i 
 it. The Experiment is this. A Man takes a 
 Dog alive, and holding down his Head with a 
 wooden Fork to the Gound, the Dog begins 
 firft to cry, and then to turn up the white of the 
 Eyes, as if he would die. Then letting him hold 
 up his Head again, he recovers. And having 
 thus twice or thrice lhewed us the Experience of 
 this infe&ious place, he puts down the Dogs head 
 again, and holds it down fo long, till the Dog 
 
 ^ feems 
 
fartIL 32J0paffe t&JOUfffi Italy. 189 
 feems to be dead indeed. Then taking him by 
 the ftiff Leg, and running with him to the Lake 
 Agnrno, fome forty Paces off, he throws him 
 into the (hallow water of this Lake, and prefent- 
 ly he begins to recover, and to wade out. They 
 would make us believe, that as it is the nature 
 of this foie is the nature of this 
 
 Lake to revive dead things again. But if the Dog 
 were dead indeed, all the water of Agnano , tho’ 
 it were Aqua Fit<x, would not recover him : He is 
 only aftoniftied with the infe&ious Vapor which 
 breatheth put of this Sulphurous ground below. 
 
 The Peftilent nature of this Grotta was (hewed us 
 plainly by a lighted Torch, which as long as it 
 >was high from the Ground, burnt clearly : But 
 as it was approached by little and little near to 
 the Ground it grew dimmer and dimmer , till 
 ftt laft it burnt blew, and being held clofe to 
 the Ground, it went quite out. 
 
 Then wewerefhown hard by, the Stoves of 
 St. Gennaro , which by a natural fulphurous Va* 
 par iffuing flrongly from low caufes, put a Man ^ ar0 . en ° 
 prefently in a Sweat, and are excellent Remedies 
 for the Neapolitan Difeafe, called by fome Au- 
 thors, Campanm Morbus : Nature, an Indulgent 
 Mother , thinking her (elf bound to afford a Re- 
 medy to the diforders which (he her fe-lf hath en- 
 clin’d the Neapolitans unto. 
 
 Then fetching about theHills by a narrow un- Th 
 frequented way, we came to the Convent of the 
 Capucins (landing there where St. 5 Umar ins was 
 Beheaded.In a little Chappel on the Right-hand 
 as you enter into the Church, they (hewed us 
 the Stone upon which he was beheaded 5 the 
 Blood is ftiil upon it* 
 
 Mm 
 
 From 
 
0 aiopage tJjJOUgl) Italy. Part II. 
 
 From hence we defcended down into the Sul- 
 phatara, where the burning Sulphur fmokes out 
 perpetually from under ground. This Sulphata - 
 ra is a kind of Pit, environed on all fides with 
 Banks, and it is about fifteen Hundred Foot long, 
 and a Thoufand broad. We rid down into it on 
 Horfe-back, and it founded hollow under our 
 Horfes Feet, as if we had been riding over a 
 wooden Bridg. There are divers Spiracula, or 
 vents round about it, out of which the thick 
 Smoak preireth furioufly, as out of a Furnace j 
 and makes Poets and Potters find matter e- 
 nough ; thofe for their Fables calling it, Forum 
 Vulcani : Thefe for their Medicinal Pots, which 
 they make of this Brimftony Earth. 
 
 Near to Sulphatara (lands a roundPool of black, 
 thick Water, which jal ways boileth 5 and what- 
 foever you throw flffto it, it comes out boiled in- 
 deed, but not entire ^ fomethingor other of it 
 being always diminifhed, faith Leandro Alberti. 
 One putting in four Eggs in a long Ladle, pulled 
 out but three again : i wonder Poets feigned not 
 this Lake to be that part of Hell allotted to 
 punifh Ufurers, feeing it takes ufe for every thing 
 that’s pat into it. 
 
 Deicending from Sulphatara to Fuzrzuolo^ we | 
 wondered to fe the very High- way fmoak un- 
 der our Horfes Feet, when yet we found not 
 them fo fiery under us } but I found the Smoak 
 to come out of little chinks of the dried ground : 
 which (hewed us that the whole Country was 
 on Fire under us. Before we came to the Town 
 we faw the remnants of a fair Amphitheater , 
 and Cicero's Academy, 
 
Part II* 3 230page Italy. , j 9 i 
 
 Immediately after this we came to Puanuolo, Vuzzuoh. 
 fo called , either from the multitude of Springs 
 about it, or elfe a Putore, from thefmell which 
 this Brimftony Country affords. The Town is 
 but little, yet anciently a Bifhops Seat. Taking 
 Boat here prefently, we palled over the Creek 
 of the Sea to Baia, which is three Miles from 
 hence 5 and as wc row’d along, I admired the 
 w ild defign of Caligula , who built a Bridge from 
 Pu^uola to Ba'u: Some of the Arches yet Hand- 
 ing on both fldes, fhew us that his folly is real .* 
 
 And I believe Suetonius meant this work when 
 he taxeth the infant* fub ft r unions s r and made 
 buildings of this Emperor. That which con- 
 tributed much to the bold attempt 5 was the 
 nature of the Sand of this Country, which made pn n y and 
 into Morter, and let down into the Water, Vicruvi* 
 grows hard and folid, even to petrify there at us \ 
 laft. Put solan us fulvis , ft aquam attigit faxum Bai ** 
 eft. 
 
 Reaching the other fide of the Bay, and 
 leaving our Boat to attend us, we rambled for an 
 hour and an half among the Antiquities of this 
 ruined Paradife of Bau : For you know, Nullus 
 in orbe locus Bails prduxit am&nis. 
 
 Firft we were led to the Mercato di Sabato^ look- Mercato di 
 ing ftill like a Street with ruins of Houfes on Sabat9 ‘ 
 both Sides. 
 
 Thence we went to the EHzian Fields, which The Fuji** 
 are much beholding to Poets for their Fame : O- Fiel 
 therwifethey are but a very common Plat of 
 Ground without any gracefulnefs at all 5 except 
 only that if Bau were a Town ftill a Man might 
 make a fine Bowling-ground here. But Poets 
 who have Power and Licence to eredt Itbacum in- 
 
 M ra 3 to 
 
192 
 
 Pefcina 
 
 MirabiU' 
 
 prQtnmt. 
 M'i'eni. 
 Mare fnor 
 Tuujn Ccn< 
 CajnenU? 
 
 9 aiopage tf)J0Un:6 Itajy. Part II. 
 
 to a Kingdom, have out-poeted it here, by e- 
 reding this little fpot of Ground into a Para- 
 
 dife. 
 
 Thence we came prefently to the PifcwVMi- 
 rabili , a vail building under ground born up 
 by forty or fifty great fquare Pillars, long 
 ao Hundred and fifty Paces, forty wide, and 
 thirty high.Wedefcended into it by many Steps, 
 and it*s fo well walled with Stone, and Lime on 
 ail Tides, that Water cannot fink through* And all 
 this was only to keep frefh Water in, either for 
 the Roman G allies thatufed to lie hereabouts, in 
 this Harbor ; or elfe for the Romans Gufto \ 
 who having their curious PiBa's hereabouts, had 
 no mind to drink of the Springs of this Bitumi- 
 nous Country. At the top of this Pifcini Mira - 
 bill , I efpied fome Spouts of Stone yet remaining, 
 by which they ufed to let the Water from above 
 into the vail Refer ver. 
 
 Returning again, we were fhown the Pro- 
 _ montory of Mifemtm a far off ; and the Mare Mor- 
 t 0 warn hard by. 
 
 Then we went into the Cento CamereUe ; fo cal- 
 led from an Hundred little Rooms that were 
 built together like Chambers within oneanother, 
 to keep Slaves in, who ferved the Gallies. 
 
 Going again towards our Boat, we were 
 iliown the place where Agrippina ihould have 
 been drowned by a falfe-bottomed Boat ; but 
 that failing, her Son Nero caufed her to be Stab- 
 bed here. Indeed Breafts that had turn’d their 
 Blood into Milk, to give Suck to fuch a Mon- 
 ger, could expeft nothing elfe but to be emptied 
 of all their Blood ; but *he was defign’d to this 
 ill ufage long before. For being foretold, when 
 
Part II. 8 Oopage tij?0itg$ Italy. 1 93 
 
 fh£ was vyith Child of Nero, that ftie had in her 
 Womb b Son, who fhould be Emperor, but 
 withal, who Ihould kill her, (he cried out: Occi - 
 dat^modo imperet : Let him kill me Jo he he but Em - 
 feror 5 and fhe had her Wifh. It's faid alfo that 
 this Parricide ( for, Nero nunquam fine publici pa - 
 ricidii prefatione nominandus eft, ( faith Valerius 
 Maximus ) after his Mother was kill’d, would 
 needs have her ript up, that he might fee where 
 he had lodged nine Months together • And I be- 
 lieve that nothing haftened more the Confpiracy 
 of the Romans , againfl; him, than that they could 
 now no longer endure him, who could not en- 
 dure his own Mother. Hard by the Shear Hands 
 yet the Tomb of that unfortunate Princefs. 
 
 Then taking Boat again, we rowed by the . 
 ruins of Marius , and Cafars Villas, and divers ^Toml. 
 other feraps of Antiquity, and all along in the 
 Water ( in a clear day ) you may fee the Foun- 
 dations of Baia, and feme Arches, and the Pave- 
 ment of the very Streets -, all now in the Sea. 
 
 Omnia fert at as *, and Time, which in .all other 
 places is called Edax rerum, may here be called 
 Bibax rerum, having fup’d up here a whole Town. 
 
 Rowing on ftill by the Shoar, we came to 
 the Foot of Nerd's Pallace, near to the ruins of 
 which, Hands mounted a ftrong Gaftle, built a 
 lamoderna , upon a high Hill. Leaving here our 
 Boat again, we were wilhed to put our Hands 
 into the Sand of the very Sea which we found 
 to burn under the cold Water. 
 
 Then we went hard by to Cicero's Baths, a Zero’s 
 great fquare place, where antiently were writ- Baths . 
 ten over Head in old Letters, the names of the 
 Difeafes which thefe Waters Cured ; Which 
 Mm 4 Letters 
 
194 $ (Kopage t&OUB& Italy. Part 11. 
 
 Letters fotne Phyfitians caufed to be defac’d, pre- 
 tending that they were fuperftitious Characters, 
 when indeed they were unwilling Men fhould 
 be cured by any thing, but the ftrange Characters 
 in their Recipes. 
 
 Near thefe aforefaid Baths, are thole- of Trito- 
 ^Trltola. I** where we were led into the long Grotte y and 
 1 * prefently put into a Sweat by a ftifling heat that 
 
 met us violently in that long entry. I followed 
 my Guide, and finding the fleam to be Choak- 
 ing, I ftooped down low behind the Guide, to 
 let him break the hot Air before me. As I thus 
 ftooped, I found out by Experience what others 
 find by hearfay ; that the nearer the Ground a 
 Man ftoops here, the cooler he finds himfelf. 
 Thus Anteus like, fetching now and thenfuccor 
 from my Mother Earth, I found Humility to be 
 a fafe Remedy. In the middle of this long, nar- 
 row Entry there's a place for thofe that ftand in 
 need of Sweating, to ftand on ftradling wide, 
 and fo fweat abundantly. They told me that 
 at the end of this Grotta y there are Baths of So- 
 vereign Virtue ; but I being well without them, 
 had no mind to be choked in feeking out Health. 
 
 Returning from hence we had a huge walk of 
 it to the Lacas Avernus , made by the River A- 
 Lacu *f m cheron, i . e. fine gaudio : a fit name for the Ri- 
 ver of Hell. This Lake is famous for it's (link- 
 ing Air which was obferv’d to kill Birds as they 
 flew over here. On the farther fide of it was the 
 Temple of Apollo. 
 
 Leaving this Lake on our Right hand, we . 
 The Gr Otte mac * e towards the Grotte of Sybilla Cumaa, fo 
 of sibytu called from the City Cam*, which flood not far 
 cumna. off. This long Cretta war once a Subterranean 
 
 paflage 
 
Part II. 9 mym Italy. 195 
 
 paflage to the City of Cuma ( as that of Paufili - 
 pas is yet to Naplej ) and the Sybills Grotte is that 
 little dark Entry which ftrikes out of the Jong 
 Grotte . This leads you to the Chamber of the 
 faid Sybille and her Baths. It’s a fine retiring 
 place for a chaft Maid, that fears as well to fee 
 as to be feen : Tam timet videre y quam videri, 
 and fuch the Sybills were 5 who for their Virgini- Te rtu 
 ties fake, had the gift of Prophecy given them, 
 faith St. Hierome. This Sybilla Cnmaa Propheci- 
 ed very particularly of our Saveour’s Birth, and 
 for that reafon Julian the Apoft ate burnt her Pro- 
 phecies faith Ammiamis Marcellimss , an Heathen 
 Hiftorian of thofe times. 
 
 As we returned again from hence to our Boat, Mmg 
 we gazed upon a great Mountain called Monte Nuovo m 
 Nuovo becaufe it was call up in one Night ( on 
 Michaelmas Night, Anno 153 6) by a Earthquake, 
 which the Philofophers call Brafmarichas, that is, 
 when the Earth is thrown up, and Mountains are 
 formed. Some hold this Mountain to be three 
 Miles high, but I think it enough to give it a full 
 Mile. It cover’d ( at its riling up ) a great part 
 of the old Lacns Lhcy’whs , which was quite fuck- 
 ed up by this great fop. 
 
 Then taking our Boat again, we returned to 
 Tuz.z.uolo, and at night to Naples 5 where we ftaid 
 but one day more, as well to reft our Horfes, as 
 to fee the Silk-fhops, where they make curious 
 Silk Waftcoats, Stockings, Scarfs, &c. 
 
 He that defires to know the Hiftory of Naples , ThsUifl^rj 
 let him read the Book called, II Compendia ddl°J L a * 
 Hiftoria di Napoli , di Collennccio . 
 
 Having thus feen Naples , we returned again 
 towards Rome^ the fame way we came, without 
 
 any 
 
19 6 
 
 Take heed 
 of the Ga- 
 hellers of 
 fundi . 
 
 a Witym t&otlfff) Italy. Part II, 
 any danger of Bandits, but not without fome 
 trouble caufed us by the Officers of the GabelU 
 at Fundi ) who met us a quarter of a Mile out of 
 the Town, and ftopt us upon the Road to fearch 
 us, and fee whether we had any thing liable to 
 the Gabella ; or more Money of the Country, 
 than the Law allows Men to carry out. For my 
 part, I had taken care of all this afore hand, and 
 had nothing liable to the greateft rigor. But 
 fome of our Company, that did not believe the 
 rigor to be fo great, found it. For to fonae they 
 puiled off their Boots, fearched their Pockets, 
 Breeches, Doublets ; nay, even their Saddles, 
 Horfes tails, and the very Horfes feet. From 
 one Gentleman they took four Piftols of Gold, 
 becaufe he carry ed fo much more than was al- 
 lowed : Though with much ado we got the Gen- 
 tleman his Money again $ I have known divers 
 that have not efcaped fo wel],having been (trip- 
 ped in the open Fields, even to their Shirts, &c. 
 their Watches taken from them, though they 
 had brought them with them to Naples , and nor 
 bought them there. This is to learn my Tra- 
 veller to be inquilitive in all his journeys, of the 
 Laws of the Country where he travelled, efpe* 
 dally fuch obvious ones as concern public Paffa- 
 ges, Bridges, Ferries, bearing of Arms, and the 
 like; the knowledge of which cuftoms will make 
 him avdd many inconveniencies, which I have 
 known others fall into. 
 
 In another Voyage to Naples , in our return 
 to Rome, we made little excurfions, to take in 
 fome places about Rome , which he had not feen 
 before, as Arbano, CaftelGandulfo , Frefcati znA 
 Tivoli , which lay almoft in our way. 
 
 Riling 
 
Part H. 9 ©(Jpage tljJOttgi) Italy. 1 9 7 
 
 Rifing therefore betimes at Vtktri, we eroded 
 over the Hills, and came to Albano ( anciently Alba-no. 
 called Longo Alba ) and now one of the feven Bi- 
 fliops Seats about Rome , which are given to the 
 elded Bifhop Cardinals, that they may be at 
 hand always, and ready to aflift the Pope in his 
 affairs of importance. The others are Porto, 0 • 
 ftia , Frefcati , Tivoli , Prenefte , Veletri. In Alba- 
 no, I faw nothing of moment but an old Church, 
 and fome old Houfes : Yet feeing it (bands in fo 
 good an Air, I wonder the great Men of Rome 
 have not built Houfes here, where the Wine 
 is fo exquifitely good. Indeed this Wine makes 
 this Town to be much taken notice of by all 
 Grangers, as being the bell Wine that’s conftant- 
 ly drunk in Rome . 
 
 Hard by Albano (lands C aft el Gandulfo , the CajlkGan- 
 Popes Countr^Houfe, in Summer. It (lands ve- dul f- 
 ry pleafantly, having on one fide of it a Lake 
 and Woodsy and on the other, tht Campania o( 
 
 Rome y and the City it felf in view. I dept into 
 this Cattle but found nothing but bare Walls, it 
 being unfurnifhed. 
 
 From hence we went to Frefcati , called an- Frefcati, 
 tiently Tufcttlttm. This is abfolutely one of the 
 fweeteft places in Europe . The Town is but lit- 
 tle 5 but round about it, efpecially on the Hill 
 fide there arefo many anions Villas, P allaces. 
 Gardens, Fountains , jhady Walks, and Simmer de- 
 lights, that I wonder not, if Princes, Cardinals, 
 and other great Perfons, retire hither, in Sum- 
 mer. In a word, here Cato was born, here Lu- 
 cullus delighted himfelf, 2 nd Cicero ftudied and 
 wrote his Tufculan queftions. The firft place 
 we went to fee here, was the Villa Aldobrandam . 
 
 This 
 
1 9 S a aopaffe t&JOUgfj Italy. 
 
 Part II. 
 
 The Villa This ViU* is alfo called the Belvedere of Frefcati , 
 ALdobvan * b ecau f e it {lands fo pleafantly ; having the Cam* 
 J™ Be ve " fama of Rome, and Rome it felf in fight on one 
 fide and on the other* the Hill fide all covered 
 with Laurel Trees, curious Fountains, Cafaatas , 
 and other delightfome Water- works, which af- 
 ford here a cool feafon, even in the Months of 
 July and Augufi. The variety of thefe Water- 
 works, are lb many and fo curious, that I can- 
 not but cjtefcribe them. 
 
 Firft then, the rar eCafcata prefents it felf, and 
 The Cafia • j ts raa( j e ^us. At t he turning of a vafl Cock, 
 the Water ( which is brought through a great 
 Hill, from a fource five Miles off ) fpouts out of 
 the top of two high winding Pillars of Stone, 
 which ftand mounted upon the head of an high 
 pair of open Stairs, and then falling down upon 
 the fame Pillars again, it follows the winding 
 bent of them, cut intoChannels and little Gut- 
 ters, and fo warbles about thefe Pilars vifibly, 
 till it arrive at the foot of them. There finding 
 ifliie, it falls upon the forefaid Stairs, and covers 
 them all with a thin gliding Stream,which makes 
 an open Stair-cafe of Water. Befides, this Water 
 fets a number of little Fountains on work, which 
 ftandon either fide of thefe Stairs, and defeends 
 by degrees with them : So that in a moment the 
 whole Hill fide is fpouting out Water and fil- 
 ling the Air with a fweet murmur. 
 
 2. Then the Gardiner turning another Cock 
 above, gives, at once, fuch ftore of Wind and 
 Water to the great Gwandola, , below the Stars, 
 The Giran- the Grotta of Atlas , that it imitateth perfectly 
 doU ' Thunder, Hail, Rain and Mitt. 
 
 3. By 
 
Part II. a ftdpage tt)?OUgl) Italy. 199 
 
 3. By this time, the great Statue of theCen- TheGen. 
 taure, with an Hunters Horn at his Mouth, **"*• 
 windeth it duly, and in perfed meafure. 
 
 4. Pan alfo plays on his Mouth-Organ tune- pan. 
 ably. 
 
 5. Whilft the Lion and the Leopard fighting The Lion 
 together , fpit angerly in one anothers Faces, and the 
 though all pafs in cold Blood, becaufe in cold Uo * ar 
 Water. 
 
 6 . Thefe Waters alfo afford innumerable and 
 inavoidable wetting places 3 as the falfe fteps in 
 the Stairs 3 the wetting place behind Pan 3 the o- 
 wetting place behind the Centaure, and the lit- 
 tle under-ground fpouts on all Tides. 
 
 . 7. Then the Hall of Apollo is opened, where The Hall 
 he fitting upon Mount Parnajf^ and the nine 9 f^ ollot 
 Mufes under him in a Circle, with feveral wind 
 Inftruments in their Hands, ftrike up altogether 
 melodioufly,whilft an untouched Organ under- 
 neath the Hill, plays a foft ground to the Mufes 
 Inftruments. 
 
 8. During the Melody, a little round hole in 
 the midft of the Room, bloweth out from be- 
 low, fuch acoolandftiff Wind, that bears up 
 a little hollw ball of Copper, a yard from the 
 Ground. Over the Door is this diftich. 
 
 Hue ego mgravi Mufis comtatm Apollo. 
 
 Hie Delphi, hie Helicon, hie mihi Delos erit. 
 
 Then being led to fee this Hydraulic Organ, The Water 
 and to view what Fingers Art had lent untoWa- Organ, 
 ter 3 I found the Organ to be made thus. Firft, 
 the Pipes are like other Organ Pipes of Lead, 
 and fet in a clofe frame, as the manner is, with 
 
 ftops 
 
200 a amip t{j? 0 Ug& Italy, part IL 
 
 Hops, and touches to them. Clofe to the Hops 
 the force of water turns a Wheel, made like a 
 great Drum, and as long as the Organ. This 
 Wheel hath in it, here and there, divers pieces 
 ofBrafs, about the thicknefs of an half Crowa 
 piece, and juft as broad as the ftops of the Or- 
 gan. Thefe Brafs pieces flicking out juft fo far, 
 as to reach the ftops in their turning about, and 
 to prefs them down as the Organifts Fingers do^ 
 and being placed here and there, in that Mufical 
 diftance, as to ftrike their note in tune, as they 
 turn about leifurely , they altogether compofe a 
 perfett and fweet Harmony 5 the Wind-pipe of 
 this room (mentioned even now ) ferveth fulfil 
 ciently for Bellows to this Organ, as well as to 
 the wind Inftruments of theMufe5 and all is 
 caufed by force of Water. But as we were taken 
 a tenibk with thefe Water- works, which make this Organ 
 netting pj a y j n tune> we were fuddenly overtaken with 
 ? another Water-work, which playing terribly 
 
 upon us, put us quite out of tune : So feldom 
 doth Wind come without Water. 
 
 PiliaLudo - Having feen this Garden and Pallace, we went 
 
 to the Villa of Prince Ladovifia , which is hard 
 by. The Houfe is but little, but theGardenis 
 both large and adorned with ftore of Water- 
 works ; fo that if the Gardiner befriend you not, 
 you cannot efcape without being foundiy wet. 
 One thing I obferved in this Pallace here, that 
 the Curtains of the Beds are wrought with lit- 
 tle holes of Needle-work, that the Air may enter 
 by them, but not the Gnats. 
 hunte- Prom hence we went to the Villa of Prince 
 drwme. Bnrghefe, called Mont e- dr agon e, from the Dra- 
 gon in his Arms. It ftands a mile and an half 
 
 from 
 
201 
 
 Part II. a asopage t&otlgf) Italy, 
 from the Belvedere ,and the y ay to it, is through 
 curious walks of Laurel-trees. The Houfe is 
 (lately, and capable of lodging a King, with his 
 whole Court. The Chambers are neat and fit 
 for both Seafons, Winter and Summer. I favr 
 divers good Pictures in them. The laft Supper 
 is of Alberto Dureo’s Hand, and hugely efleemed. 
 
 The flory of Polyphemus is of the Hand of Lan- 
 franco* But that which pleafed me bell, was the 
 Hall below, full of the true Pictures of famous 
 Men, both for Learning and Arms. Its an ex- 
 cellent School, where a Man may learn much 
 true skill in Phyfiogmony, and fee how Wor- 
 thies looked. This Hall lets you out into the 
 little neat Garden, where you find Water- 
 works, wetting fports, and a pretty Girandola. 
 
 Having thus feen Frefcati , we went to Tivoli Tivoli. 
 fome fifteen Miles off. This is an antient Town, 
 
 Handing upon an Hill fome fifteen Miles diftant 
 from jRowe,and in fight of it. It was anciently 
 called Tyber, and held by the Romans for a deli- QjdT ^ 
 cious place. Wefaw here the old Temple^and y er ° 
 the Houfe of Sibylla Tyburtina. Then we faw the 
 Cafcata y mvich admired here by thofe that never The Ca r ca . 
 were in Smjferland> or at Ternu This here is ta. 
 made by the River Anio , which falls fuddenly 
 down a ftony Rock, and foams for anger, to 
 fee its bed grown too fhort for it. Indeed it 
 makes fuch a murmuring complaint againH 
 nature, to the Hones below, that it almoH 
 deafs, like the Catadoups of Niltts , all its neigh- 
 bors. 
 
 Thence we went to the Villa of Cardinal d'Efie* ^ / 
 
 It Hands high and overlooks the Campania of Ejte. 
 Rome. But the Garderis of this Villi, is chat 
 
 which 
 
202 
 
 a Oofage tljiotlfffj Italy, Part II. 
 which is here moft looked after. They lie npon 
 the fide of an Hill, and are placed in four rows 
 of Gardens, with four degrees in the defcent,all 
 furnifhed with Cafcatas , Grottas , and other ad-* 
 mirableWater*works:The Water is let in hither 
 from the River Anio, which runs behind this 
 Hill. For they have tapt the very Hill, and 
 bored the Rock quite through to the River 5 fo 
 that the Gardiner hereby turning a great Cock, 
 can let in as much Water as fills the Fountains, 
 the Cafcatas , the Grottas , the Girandola^ and the 
 other rare Water-works. Hence is made the 
 great Fountain of Leda ♦, the Stairs of Water ; 
 the long walk of two Hundred paces, fet all a- 
 long with little ftone Fountains and Bafins, pur- 
 ling in your ears, and catting out little tets of 
 Water as you walk along them. And here you 
 fhall fee as rare things for fight and delight, as 
 the World can afford in this kind. Here a per- 
 fect reprefentation of old Rome in a Perfpe&ive : 
 Where you fee the Capitol , the Pantheon , the 
 chief Triumphal Arches , the Circos, Theaters , 
 Obelifqnes , Maufoleas , and even Tyber it felf : 
 Here curious groves of Trees making a green 
 fpring in the midft of Winter : Here cool Grot- 
 tas and Fountains, making a cold Winter in the 
 midft of Summer. Here falfe birds chirping up- 
 on true Trees, every one according to his true 
 nature \ and all of them chattering at once at 
 the fight of a falfe Owl, appearing and howling 
 in a Tree. Here curious Grottas , efpecially the 
 Grotta of Nature, adorned with Nymphs, Shells, 
 Statues, and unavoidable wetting places, and Or- 
 gans playing without any Man touching them : 
 There a fearful Girandola of the Dragons, thun- 
 dering 
 
Part II. 3 (UOpap t&IOUffl) Italy. 303 
 
 dering as if they would fee Heaven on Fire with 
 cold Water, and pelt Jupiter from thence with 
 Haiiftones. But l wrong thefe-things, which are 
 rather to be feen chan deferibed: And my Travel- 
 ler will wrong himfelf much, if he ftay not here 
 three or four days, to view manitamente y thefe 
 wonders of Art.Having feen thefe famous places, 
 we returned to Rome again } where we law its 
 chief rareties over and over again 5 for Romam 
 juvat ufane videre , and all Men that have feen 
 Rome only once, defire to fee it again : Hence 
 the Romans taking leave of a ftranger departing 
 from Rome , after his firft Voyage, fay jelling to 
 him, a Riveder ci } that is,Farewel till 1 fee you 
 again } knowing that every Man who hath feen 
 Rome but once, will defire to return again. For 
 my part, I confefs I was of this fentiment in my 
 firft journey } but now having feen it five feveral 
 times, I took a long leave of it, and began to 
 think of returning homeward by the way of Lo- 
 reto and Venice. And that we might be fure to 
 be at Venice at the great folemnity of the Afcen- 
 fion , we left Rome the firft week after Eafter . 
 
 We fee out of Rome by the Porta del Popalo , 
 all along the via Flaminia , which reached as far y ia ^ 
 almoft on this fide of Rome> as the via Appia did minla 
 on the others that is from Rome to Rimini, Its 
 called Flaminia , becaufe the Conful Flaminim 
 made it by his Souldiers, in time of peace, left 
 they Ihould grow idle and have their ftrength to 
 feck when the War (hould break out. The reft 
 of the way from Rimini to Bologna, was paved 
 by ELmilitiS Lepidas the Collegue of F 'laminins , 
 and from him called via JEmilia . 
 
 N n 
 
 This 
 
204 
 
 Panto Molo, 
 
 Tyktr. 
 
 Harm. 
 
 *tcrni. 
 
 Spoieto* 
 
 a (Hopage t&QUglj Italy. Part IL 
 
 This via Flmwia led us firft to Pome Moio 
 ( Pons Mtlv'ms ) a good Mile diftant from the 
 Gates of Rome , where Conftantin the Great over- 
 came Maxentim the Tyrant, and drove him and 
 h is Men into the River. Here it was I faw Tyber 
 firft 5 and 1 wonder to find it fuch a fmall Ri- 
 ver, which Poets, with their Hyperbolical Ink* 
 had made fweil into a River of the firft rate. 
 
 Following on the way,we palled by Gaft el Nno* 
 
 Vo, Chita , Caftellana,Vtricoli , andfoto Narni: 
 fo called from the River Nar. It was anciently s 
 called Nequirmm (wicked Town) becaufe of the 
 Inhabitants, who being pr died with hunger in a 
 Siege refolved to kill one another, rather than 
 fall alive into the Hands of their Enemies. They 
 began with their Children, Sifters, Mothers, 
 Wives, and at laft fell upon one another } lea- 
 ving their Enemies nothing to triumph over but 
 bare Walls and Allies. This Town is an ancient 
 BilhopsSeat, and St. Juvenalis (whofebody ly- 
 eth in a neat low Ghappel in the Domo ) was the 
 firft Bifhop of it. A little out of the Town are 
 feen high Arches, belonging anciently to an A- 
 quedu£f. 
 
 From hence we went toTerni 7 a BilhopsSeat 
 too. It was called anciently Inter amna^ becaufe 
 of a world of little Brooks here. This Town 
 ftandsinamoft pleafant foyl, and is famous for 
 being the birth-place of Cornelius Tacitus the 
 great Hiftorian. Arriving here betimes, we went 
 four miles off, to fee the famous Cafcata , in the 
 Mountains, which far exceils that of Tivoli. 
 
 From Term we went to Spoleto. This is a 
 neat Town, which giveth denomination to the 
 Dutchy of Spolrn, Anciently the Country, here- ; 
 
 about 
 
Part II. 9 (IJopage tf)20tlgl) Italy. 205 
 
 about was called Vmbria , but in aftertitnes it 
 was called, the Dutchy of Spoleto , upon this oc- 
 cafion. The Emperor Juft in having called Nar- 
 fes (the great General ) out of Italy , he fent Lon - 
 ginus with the Power and Title of Exarch , in his 
 place. This Longinus fettled himfelf in Raven- 
 na, and governed the reft of Italy by his Cap- 
 tains and Officers called Duces , or Dukes. 
 
 Hence Rome loft her Confuls , ( Narfes and 
 Baftlins being the two laft Confuls) and was 
 governed by a Duke too, as well as Spoleto, This 
 Town hath been famous anciently, for holding 
 out againft Hannibal , even then when he had 
 newly overcome the Romans at the Lake Thraft - 
 meno near Perugia 3 in which Siege of Spoleto , 
 happened that famous Prodigy (which! may 
 call, in a manner, a Metaphyftcal transmutation, 
 rather than aMetamorphofes)mentioned by Lean- 
 dro Alberti, who quotes Livy for it 3 of a Man 
 in Spoleto , changed into a Woman in the time of 
 the Siege. Surely it was fome notable Coward, 
 whom Nature difavowing, degraded him of his 
 Breeches. Hence I remember that Plato faith, 
 
 Abjettori armor um Maxime convenirtt , ut in Mult Plato lib. 
 crem ex Viro tr an flatus, fic puniatur : A Man that 12 I* I*' 
 cafts aroay his Arms in a Battle , ought to be puni(h - gic ' 
 ed, by being changed from a Man into a Woman, 
 
 This Town of Spoleto gives the name to the plea- jhs Valley 
 fant Valley of Spoleto , Which lies near it. It’s of Spoleto. 
 above thirty Miles in Compafs,furrounded on all 
 lides with Hills, and thofe Hills are clad with ma* 
 ny fine Towns : People willingly dwelling here, 
 where the Air and the Earth, our chiefeft Nurfes, 
 are fo purely good. 
 
 N n 2 
 
 From 
 
SO 6 3 aiovagc tljjougf) Italy. Part II 
 
 Filigni. From Spoleto we went to Foligni ( Fnlignum in 
 Latin ) famous for Confettioners. Not far from 
 jffifium. hence Hands Ajfifium^ famous for St. Francis^ 
 Founder of the Francifcan Order *, the Convent 
 here is ftately, and much vifited by devout Pil- 
 Montefalco. gritTis : And Mmefalco famous for the miracu- 
 lous heart of B. Clara . 
 
 From Fologni , climbing up the Aparins, we 
 came to Tolentino , famous for the Tomb and 
 To * nUnQ * Relicks of St. Nicholas Tolentinas . Of this 
 Town was Fhilelphus a learned and noble Knight, 
 who defirous of pofieffing of the Greek Tongue 
 in Perfection, was not only content to go into 
 Greece in Perfon, and there vifit the ruins of A- 
 ihetiSy and the T ombs of the ancient Philofophers; 
 but brought thence with him a Grecian Lady, 
 whom he had married at Conftm inople ,by whofe 
 daily Convention he might learn the pure Ac- 
 cent of the Greek Tongue. And this he did in fuch 
 Perfection, that he triumph’d over the Grecians 
 themfelves in their own Language. Witnefs that 
 difpute which he had with Timotheus, a Grecian , 
 about the ForCe and Accent of a(7ml^Word, 
 where both of them growing hot, and betting 
 at lalt their Beards, which they both wore then 
 long, Philelphus won the others Beard :and cauf* 
 ed it to be fhaved off immediately, and kept it 
 in his Family as a Trophy : Though the poor 
 Grecian would have redeemed it with aconfide- 
 rable Sum o£ Money. Indeed they deferv’d both 
 to iofe their Beards, that could be fo hot about 
 fuch a Hairs matter, as the Accent of a Word. 
 The Statue of this notable Shaver, victorious 
 Fhilelphus, I faw here in the Town-houfe. 
 
 From 
 
Part II. 9 ClOP.lge tljmigf) Italy. 367 
 
 From Tolemino .we went to Macerata , a neat M»C (7 fit*. 
 Town of la Marco, 5 and palling through Recana- Recar/Af , 
 ta y another handforae Town of the fame Coun- 
 try, we came betime to Loreto . LoreU 
 
 Refolving but to (lay here one day, we put 
 out all our time to ufe prcfently, and Spent that 
 Afternoon, and the next day in viewing exadiy 
 this facred place,which is fo much frequented by 
 the devout Pilgrims of ail Chriftendom. This 
 place at firft was nothing but a plain High-way 
 till the Chamber of our Bleffed Lady ( in which 
 the Angel announced unto her the mv fiery of 
 the Incarnation of our Saviour in her Womb) 
 was tranflated thither miraculoufly by the Hands 
 of Angels^about the year 1 294,when Infidels and 
 Turks over-fpreading the holy Land, won'd o- 
 therwife have profaned that holy place, which 
 even from the Apoftles time had been turned in- 
 to a Chappel. For my part, though this be no 
 Article of Faith, yet when I remember what was 
 faid in this Chamber, by the Angel to our 
 Lady, to wit, Non eft impojfibile apud Deum omne 
 Verbum : Nothing is mpojftble to God , l eafily be- 
 lieve that he who plac’d this great World it felf 
 in a place where there was nothingbefore,can ea- 
 fily place aHoufe there where there was no Houfe 
 before; and that he who makes an Angel wheel 
 the Primum mobile , and the vaft Machines of 
 the Heavenly Orbs, quite round in four and 
 twenty hours, may eafily make Angels tranilate 
 this little Chamber of our Lady, from one part 
 of the World to another. Now that it was fo See Trufe- 
 tranflated de fafto, both ancient Records, foiid Hnus bu 
 depofitions, conftant tradition, and the belief of ' jf 
 
 all, aimoft of the 
 
 Catholick 
 N n 3 
 
 Princes of Ex- 
 
 rope 
 
20 § 
 
 The holy 
 hou! e of 
 Loreto. 
 
 3 tUo^age t6?OUff8 Italy. Part II. 
 rope ( who have fenc rich Prefents hither) do te- 
 ftify. Befides I can fay this, that the Walls are 
 of fuch a Stone as is not ufed in any Houfe in all 
 the Country about : A great Prefumption, that 
 this Wall is Exotic. Again, the holy Houfe here 
 having no foundation in the Ground ( as we fee 
 plainly ) it is not credible that it was built here 
 by Men who would have given fome little Foun- 
 d ation to W alls of that thicknefs, and to a Houfe 
 of that bignefs, efpecially Handing alone in the 
 Fields, as it did at firH, and expofed to all Wea- 
 ther. Add farther, that the very old Painting 
 which is feen upon part of the Wall on the in- 
 fide fheweth the high Antiquity of this Houfe. 
 In fine, the whole Country would have given 
 the Lie to his tradition at firft,or as foon as Men 
 had begun to cry it up for an Houfe brought thi- 
 ther miraculously. 
 
 Now for the h61y Houfe it felf it Hands inthe 
 midH of a great Church which hath been built 
 over it in latter times, for the better conveniency 
 of the Peoples Devotion, and the Church Ser- 
 vice: And roundabout it more immediately 
 there hath been built a decoration of white Mar- 
 ble, which Hands half a Foot difiant from the 
 holy Houfe, that Men may fee it was not intend- 
 ed fo much for a Prop, as for a Decoration to it, 
 as alfo to keep it from the hands of devout Pil- 
 grims, who otherwife would have made no fcru- 
 pie to have been nibling at the Stones of the 
 Walls here, and fo in time have much defac’d 
 the holy Houfe with their Pious Thefts. This 
 Decoration is fet round with two rows of ftatues 
 of white Marble, cut by the rareH Workmen of 
 Italy in thole times, to wit, Sanfovino^Bandineliu 
 
 $an 
 
Part ir* 32Iopage t&0U£$ Italy. 
 SanG alio, Monte Lupo y and others. The lower 
 rowofthefe Statues exprefieth the figures of the 
 ancient Prophets : And the other row above ex- 
 prefleth the Statues of the Sybills , who Prophe- 
 cyed among the Gentiles, and Heathens, of our 
 Saviours Birth of a Virgin, and his Paffion, as 
 you may read at large in Laftamns. 
 
 As for the matter and form of this Houfe, I 
 found it to be of hard, red Stone, like Brick^but 
 far harder and bigger than our Brick : The form 
 fomewhat fquare, about the bignefs of a reafon- 
 able lodging Chamber.There’s but one Window 
 in it, and anciently there was but one Door j but 
 now there are three ; one at either fide, and one 
 behind the Altar, for the Chaplains that have 
 care of the Lights and Lamps, which are always 
 burning here. Towards the upper end of the 
 Houfe there is an Altar, where the Holy Sacri- 
 fice of Mafs is offered from four in the Morning, 
 until one in the Afternoon. This Altar is of Sil- 
 ver, and was given by Cofmm II. Great Duke of 
 Florence . Before it hangs a Lamp of Gold, as 
 great as two Men could carry. It was the gift and 
 Vow of the Senate of Venice in a Plague time. 
 On either fide of the Walls are fattened two 
 great Candlefticks of pure Gold, made like Cor- 
 nucofias and neatly wrought, they were the gift 
 of the great Dutches of Florence , Magdeiena d * 
 Auttria, as her Arms upon them told me. On 
 the Gofpel fide of the Altar, there’s an old Cup- 
 board within the Wall, in which are yet kept 
 Lome little Earthen Difhes, which were brought 
 hither with the Houfe, and therefore Tradition 
 holds them to have been our Saviours Plate, and 
 our Ladies Vefiels.Now this Cupboard is adorn'd 
 Nn 4 with 
 
2 1.0 
 
 9 Clopage tsj’iOUglj Italy. Part II. 
 with z door of Silver given (if 1 remember well ) 
 by a Duke of Farma. In the* end of the holy 
 Hbufe there is a Window* where it is imagined 
 the Angel entred when he came Embaffador to 
 the Virgin Mary concerning the great Bufinefsof 
 the Incarnation of his Lord and Matter. This 
 Window is now cheeked and enriched with Sil- 
 ver, Round about above, hang Silver Lamps ; 
 and on the fidesof the Walls there remains yet 
 fame very old Painting, wherewith this Chamber 
 was painted when it was firft confecrated into a 
 Chappd in the primitive times. In the very bot- 
 tom of this Chamber, they fhewed me, by a 
 lighted Candle, how that it hath no Foundation 
 in the Ground ; but ftands here jutt as if it had 
 been let down from the Air, and fet upon the 
 plain Ground. 
 
 Clofe behind the Altar runs quite crofs the 
 Chappel, a great iron Grate, through which you 
 fee the Statue of Cedar % of our Bleffed Lady, 
 with her Son in her Arms. It’s faid to have been 
 made by St. Luke, and was brought hither, toge- 
 ther with the Chappel or holy Houfe. It fbands 
 up high in the very farther end of the Chappel: 
 Its about fourFoot high, and adorned with a par- 
 ticular kind of Vail hung before it, looking 
 fomething like a Womans Garment. They call 
 thefe Vails here, Fefii, and they are of divers 
 Colors and Stuffs ; but all rich and glittering ^ 
 witnefs that which I faw in the Treafury , which 
 was given by the Infanta Jfabella of Flanders , 
 which is valued at forty Thoufand Crowns. It’s 
 fet thick with fix rows of Diamonds down be- 
 fore, to the number of three Thoufand ; and it’s 
 all wrought over with a kind of Embroidery of 
 
 little 
 
 i 
 
Part II. 9 CJopage Italy. 2 1 1 
 
 little Pearl, fet thick every where within the 
 Flowers with great round Pearl, to the number 
 of twenty Thoufand Pearls in all. Upon the 
 Heads of our Saviour and our Lady in that 
 Statue, are fet two rich Crowns (clofe Royal 
 Crowns ) of Diamonds given by the Queen of 
 France Anne d y Anfiriche . Before the Bread of 
 this Statue hangs a Royal Tof one, or Fleece of rich 
 Jewels, given by a Prince of Tranfilvania : A 
 Collar of Rubies, Pearls, and Diamonds, and 
 a rich Crofs hanging at it, all given by Cardinal 
 Sfondrati . Round about the Niche , in which 
 this Statue (lands, there goes a clofe row of pre- 
 cious Stones of feveral forts and Luftres, but all 
 great, both in bulk, in value, and in number 5 
 being Seventy one, in all, and together com- 
 pofing a rich Iris of feveral colours. Between this 
 Statue of our Lady, and the Iron Grate, hang 
 a row of Lamps, (about twelve in all ) of pure 
 Gold, and all as big as a Mans Head, one where- 
 of exceeds the reft in curious Workmanfhip *, 
 and it was the gift of Sigifmond , King of Potoma. 
 
 All the reft of theChappel,where thofe Lamps 
 hang, is loaden with the rich Vows, and Prefents 
 of great Princes. Thefe I yet remember: To 
 wit, the Image in Silver of the eldeft Son of Fer- 
 dinand the Third, Emperor, with a Chain of Di- 
 amonds about it. An Angel of Silver, hold- 
 ing out and as it were prefenting to our Lady a 
 Child of Gold in Swathing-Bands, upon a Sil- 
 ver Cufhion. It was the gift of the aforefaid 
 Queen of France , being brougt to Bed of the 
 Dolphin, now Lewis the XIV. The Picture of 
 this Prince of Conde in Silver kneeling, a vow of 
 his Mother when he went firft to War. The Bafio 
 
 of 
 
2 1 2 a my age 1 6 ?OUg 6 Italy, Part JI, 
 
 of St. Barbara in Silver, fet with Jewels *, the gift 
 of an Arch Duke of Auftria. Another Buflo 
 of St, Girione y fet with Jewels alfo a gift of a 
 Queen of Bohemia . The Statue of St. Ladiflaus 
 in Silver * the gift of Ladiflaus the IV. King of 
 Tolonia . A fine kneeling Stool or Pew of Silver, 
 given by Cardinal Colonna , with a world of o- 
 ther Silver Prefents, wherewith this place is fil- 
 led. In fine, I faw there the very Chimney 
 which was anciently in this Chamber \ its under 
 the Statue of our Lady, and now adorned with 
 Silver. 
 
 Having feen the Holy Houfeor Chappel, we 
 ihelrw* were led the next Morning into the Treaflury , 
 ur y’ where many other rich prefents are kept. This 
 Treafury is a large Room forty paces long, and 
 about fifteen wide, like a long Chappel vaulted 
 and painted over head. On the left hand of this 
 Room, (land great Cupboards, which opening a- 
 bove, have little Nets of ftrong Wyar before 
 them, which let in Eyes to behold, but keep off 
 Hands from touching the ineftimable Treafare 
 contained within them. Some of thefe prefents 
 were given by Popes, fome by Kings, Qpeens, 
 Princes, Cardinals, Generals, Ladies and Noble- 
 men of feveral Nations. In one Cupboard they 
 Ihewed us a whole fervice for the Altar, that is, 
 Crucifix, Candlefticks, Cruets, Bafin and Eure, 
 and the foot of the Chalice, all of Amber. In 
 another, fuch a whole fervice of Agate. Ano- 
 ther fuch a Service all of Lapis Lazuli, given by 
 Count Olivares . Another aU of Coral given by 
 the Arch- duke Leopold „ In another, fuch a Ser- 
 vice in Chryfial. In another fuch a Service of 
 Silver, with Flower-pots neatly wrought, given 
 
Part II. & £ 3 opaffC tljJOtlgij Italy. 2 1 3 
 
 by Don Thadeo Barber ino , PrefeB of Rome. In an- 
 other, a ftately Crucifix of Ebony adorn’d with 
 many curious Pictures in Miniature, given by 
 Pope Clement the VIII. In another, the Spread- 
 Eagle of Diamonds, the Gift of Mary , Queen of 
 Hungary . Two Crowns of Gold enrich’d with 
 Pearl \ the Gift of a Queen of Polonia. A Crown 
 of Gold fet with great Rubies of extraordinary 
 fize , the Gift of a Dutchefs of Never s. In ano- 
 ther the Crown and Scepter of Gold enameH’d, 
 given by Chriftina, Queen of Sweden, at her firft 
 coming into Italy. In another, the enamelled 
 Pigeon, with a rich Jewel in its Breaft y the Gift 
 of the Prince Ludovifio. The Heart enriched 
 with Diamonds, with a great Emerald in the 
 middle of it, of an exceflive bignefs 5 the Gift of 
 Henry III. of France , at his return out of Polo- 
 nia. In another, the rich enamelled three cor- 
 ner’d Jewel, with the Picture of the Bleffed Vir- 
 gin in the middle of it *, the Prefent of two Bo- 
 hemian Counts and a Gentleman $ who being 
 thrown out of a Window in Prague, by the Cal- 
 vinifts, and recommended themfelves to God’s 
 Protection, and our Ladies Interceffion, fell 
 down all three gently? without the leaft hurt: 
 
 Their Names were Count Mar tint is. Count Sla - 
 vata , and a Gentleman that was Secretary to 
 Count Slavata , who being thrown out the iaft, 
 and falling upon the Count his Mailer, c'ryed 
 him mercy for his rudenefs in falling upon him : 
 Agreat argumentthat they were little hurt, when 
 they could Compliment with one another.There 
 are now three Pillars before that houfe in Prague, 
 put of which thefe three Men were thrown. In 
 another Cupboard I faw feveral great^hains oi 
 
 Gold, 
 
3 Oopage tf)?0Ug& Italy. Part II. 
 
 Cold, given by great Men; and fome of thefe 
 by great Generals. In another, a great Heart of 
 Gold, as big as both a Mans hands, enamelled 
 with blew, and fet on the outfide of it, with 
 thefe Words in pretty big Diamonds, JESUS, 
 MARIA, and within it are the Pi&ures of 
 the Blefled Virgin on one fide, and of the Queen 
 of England , Henrietta Maria , one the other 3 the 
 Heart opening it felf into two leaves. In another, 
 a neat little Heart alfo, of Gold, enamelled and 
 fet with Jewels, the Prefen t of Madam Cbriftina^ 
 Dutchefs of Savoy ^ and Sifter to the forefaid 
 Queen of England % with her own and her Sons 
 Picture in it. In another, the Pidture of our 
 Biefted Lady, with her Son Jefus in her Arms , 
 cut in a great Pearl, and fet in Gold. In ano- 
 ther Cupboard, I faw a Pidture of our Blelfed 
 Lady, wrought curioufly in Indian Feathers of 
 feveral Colors, and cut fhort as Plulh 5 which 
 Pidture changeth Colors as often as you change 
 its Situation, or your own Pofture. In another, 
 a great Cuftodia of Chry ftal, given by Chrittina 
 of Tufcany. In another, a Cuftodia of Lapis La - 
 zmU> In another, a Diamond valued at twelve 
 Thoufand Crowns, the gift of the Prince d’Oria , 
 in Genova. Another of almoft equal price, gi- 
 ven by a German Prince. In another, a curious 
 Book of Gold covered with Diamonds, with the 
 leaves of Gold,but rarely painted in Miniature, 
 the gift of a Duke of Bavaria. In another, the 
 Samaritans Well of Gold, with Pidtures of our 
 Saviour, and the Samaritan Woman in Gold al- 
 fo ; the Prefent of Cardinal Brancaccio. In di- 
 x^ers other Cupboards, I faw a world of Jewels 
 of all forts, which confounded my Memory a$ 
 
 well 
 
Part II. 9 (Llopap t|)|OUglj Italy. 
 
 well as dazled my Eyes.Inother greatCupboards, 
 they (hewed me excellent Church Ornaments, 
 of moft rich Stuffs, embroidered with Silver and 
 Gold, but one there was ( to wit, a whole com- 
 pleat Suit for the Altar , Prieft, Deacon and Sub- 
 deacon) fo thick covered with an Embroidery 
 of Pearl, and thofe no little ones, that I could 
 not perceive the Ground of the Stuff for Pearl: 
 All thefe were the Prefents of Catherine Zomoij - 
 ky, Wife of the Chancellor of Polonia \ and 
 they are valued at an Hundred and thirty Thou- 
 fand Crowns, I know not whether this fuitof 
 Church Ornaments, or that defcribed above in 
 the Popes Sacrifty , be the Richer. 
 
 On the other fide of this Room, are great 
 Windows, betwixt every one of which, arefet 
 upon long Tables, divers great Towns, fo pre- 
 cifely expreffed in Silver, with their Walls, Ram- 
 parts, Churches, Steeples,Houfe$,Streets,Wiod- 
 mils, &c. That whofoever had once feen thefe 
 Towns, would eafily know them again in their 
 Pictures here, they were all Vows and Gifts, and 
 all ingenious German Work, as well as German 
 Towns. 
 
 This is all I can Remember, though not half 
 I faw in this Treafary. And having thanked the 
 civil Prieft that Ihewed us this fine place, we went 
 out again into the great Church *, where I obfer- 
 ved upon the great Pillars that make the Ifles of 
 this Church,the Hiftory of the Holy Houle en- 
 graven in Stone, or written in Parchment in a 
 fair Text-hand, in twelve or thirteen feveral 
 Languages, for the ufe of the Pilgrims who flock 
 hither from all Countries; 
 
51 6 3 ao?age tDlOUfit) Italy. Part II. 
 
 Going out of the Church, I faw before the 
 Church door the Statue in Brafs of Sixtus Quin- 
 tusj and a (lately Fountain. 
 
 From hence we went to fee the Cellar of the 
 Holy Houfe, which furnifhed with Wine, not 
 only the Governors Houfe, the Canons and the 
 Church-men, the College of the Penitentiaries, 
 the Convent of the Capucins , the Sminarifis , 
 the Hofpitai and all thofe that belong to the 
 Church any way ; but alfo furnifh’d all Pilgrims, 
 yea even all Princes, Cardinals, Bifhops, Ambaf- 
 fadors, and great Men of known quality, with 
 Wine, as long as they flay here upon Devo- 
 tion. For this reafon there belong large Reve- 
 nues to this Church ; and this Cellar is abfolute- 
 ly the belt I faw in Italy. The Velfels are huge- 
 ly great, and not to be removed from hence. 
 They have a way to take out a piece of their 
 broad fides, and fo to make them clean. They 
 are all hooped with Iron, and fome of them 
 are fo contrived, that they can draw three feve- 
 ral forts of Wine out of one Velfel, and by the 
 fame tap. The Experience is pretty, but the 
 Wine is better. Now whether thefe Velfels be 
 too many, or the Revenues of the Holy Houfe 
 too great, you may eafily conje&ure, when fo 
 many Perfonsare fed daily, as I mentioned a- 
 bove, and fo many Thoufand Pilgrims pafs fo 
 * Jn hls frequently that way. Turfelims * writes, that be- 
 Hifl of Lc- tween Eafter and Wbitfuntide , there have flock’d 
 mo, l. 3. thither, fometims, five, fometimes fix Hundred 
 c thoufand Communicants j and in two days fpace 
 
 in September (about the Fealt of the Nativity of 
 our Blelfed Lady) there have appeared Two 
 hundred thoufand Communicants, moft of which 
 were Pilgrims, Having 
 
Part lh a SJopage t&2(Jtlg& Italy. . 217 
 
 Having refrelhed our felves in this Cellar, we TheApothe- 
 went to the Apothecaries- (hop, belonging to the Wies-jkop. 
 holy Houfe alfo^ and furnilhing Phyfick to lick 
 Pilgrims for nothing. There we faw thofe fa- 
 mous Pots, which make even Phyfick it felf look 
 fweetly, and draw all curious ftrangers to vifit 
 them. For round about a great inner Shop, 
 ftand Pots of a great Size, painted by Raphael 
 Vrhins own Hand, and therefore judged by Fir- 
 tfiofi to be of great Value. Witnefs thofe four 
 only, on which are painted the four Evangelifis , 
 for the which were offered by a French Em bails - 
 dor in his Kings name, four Pots of Gold of the 
 fame bignefs, and were refufed . Brave Raphael , 
 whofe only touch of a Finger could, Midas like, 
 turn Galli pots into Gold. But as Fhydm his 
 Statues of Clay were as much adored antiently, 
 as his Golden ones; So Raphaels Hand is as much 
 admired in the Apothecaries Shop of Loreto y as 
 in the Vatican Pallace of Rome . Tfcefe Pots were 
 given to the holy Houfe by a Duke of Vrhin y 
 whofe Subject Raphael was, and for whom he 
 had made them with more than ordinary Art. 
 
 He that delires to know more of Loreto , let 
 him read Turfelinus his Hiftory of Loreto. For 
 my part, my time being out, I muff be gone. 
 
 Taking therefore Horfe again, we made to- 
 wards Fenice, and faw thefe Places in our way. 
 
 Ancona, , the Capital Town of the Marca. , and Ancm ^ 
 one of the bell Havens in th zGulph: Correspon- 
 ding with Slavonia , Greece , Dalmatica y and ma- 
 ny other Countries. Its built upon a Promon- 
 tory, and back’d up Land- way, with a good Ca- 
 ttle. The Haven was built by the Emperour Tra- 
 jartj whofe Triumphal Arch is yet feen here. 
 
2 1 8 3 (UOpfige tlJlOltffb Italy. Part II. 
 
 and is the chief Monument of this Town. Here 
 is a Molo (hiking two Hundred paces into the 
 Sea . Pins II. whilfl he flayed here to animate in 
 Perfon, the great expedition againft the Turfa 
 which he had zealoufly given beginning toadied. 
 In the Vaults of the great Church, are kept ma- 
 ny Saints Bodies and pretious Relicks. Its called 
 Sc. Cir iaco's Church, and it is the Cathedral. 
 Smxallia Froin Ancona, we went to Senegallia, all along 
 **** the Sea fide. This Town is fo called from the 
 Senones Gallic Its a very neat and pleafant 
 Town, [landing in a fweet Air. ltsaBifhops 
 Seat. Here began anciently Gallia Cifalpina. 
 
 From hence we went to FanofFanum fortune) 
 becaufeof the Temple of Fortune built here in 
 memory of a Battle won by the Romans , near the 
 River Metanrns , hard by where Afdrnbal , Han- 
 nibaPs Brother was flain.Here’s an antient Tri- 
 umphal Arch ; yet [landing. Not far from this 
 Town alfo, jHarfoes overcame Totila, Its an E- 
 pifcopal Town. 
 
 Vefaro, From hence we went to Pefaro [landing alfo 
 moil pleafantly by the Sea fide. Its called Pefa~ 
 ro y and Pefanrnm in Latin, from the weighing 
 here of the Gold which the Romans befeiged in 
 the Capitol, fent hither to be payed to the Ganls^ 
 faith Servins. It once belonging to the Pukes of 
 Vrbhy but for want of Heirs Male, fell to the 
 Church by right. From the Bridge of Stone, 
 which is here, begins the Marca dp Ancona.Tho 
 Air is here thought by Vranofcopiftsyto be the bell 
 in Italy ° 7 as are alfo the Figs here. 
 cathliea From hence we palled by Catholicity a poor Vil- 
 lage, adorned with nothing but a [lately Name, 
 and an Igfcription upon the Wall of the Chap- 
 
 Pel, 
 
Part It 3 (3apgC Italy. 
 
 pel, rendering you the reaion why this Town is 
 called Catholics , which was this. When the 
 Eraperour Conftantius , a fierce Arum , ufed vio- 
 lence to the Fathers that had been aftemhled in 
 the Council of Arimini (a Town not far off) and 
 would not fuffer them to depart ( their bulinefs 
 being done, which they came for, to wit, the Ca~ 
 tholick Faith of the Council of Ntce being liere af* 
 ferted and confirmed) till they had complyed 
 with the Emperour’s fadion, confiding of Ari- 
 A.ns \ Many of them too weakly (being weary of 
 fo long a Hay from their Seats)fell to an unwor- 
 thy compliance with the Arum Party. Which 
 the zealous Orthodox Fathers feeing, left Rimm y 
 and came into this little Village, becaufe they 
 would not Communicate with the Arims .* 
 Whereupon this Village got the Name of Catho - 
 lica ^ becaufe the true Catholick and Orthodox Fa- 
 thers retired hither. If you ask me then, whe- 
 ther this Council of Rimini were good or no *, I 
 anfwer you, that the Council was good and Or- 
 thodox, and confirmed the Faith of the Nicene 
 Council againft the Ariatts ; which was the bufi- 
 nefs it was called. about. And what happened af- 
 terwards when the Council was ended by the op- 
 preflion of the Emperour, is not to be imputed to 
 the Council, but to feme weak Fathers, asaner^ 
 ror of Coverfation, and a too unworthy Com- 
 pliance. 
 
 From Catholics we went to Rimini , called A - Rii 
 riminum in Latin, this is a pretty Town, in which 
 the forefaid Council was kept. In the Market 
 place I faw the Stone (fet now upon a Pedeftal) 
 upon which Cafar flood when he made a 
 Speech to bis Souldiers, to make themrefolveto 
 
 0 o march 
 
220 
 
 C finer, 
 Forli. 
 
 ■ Rubicon* 
 
 Facnza, 
 
 a aiapage t&OUgfi Italy. Part IX, 
 march np to Rome. Hard by, in the fame Mar- 
 ket place, Hands a little round Chappel, famous 
 for a miracle wrought there by St. Antony of Pa~ 
 dun, in Confirmation of the real Prefence. The 
 Hiftory is too long, but feen here painted round 
 the Chappel, with a call of an Eye. 
 
 From hence we went through Cefena anEpif- 
 copal Town *, and Forli , Forum Livii another Bi- 
 fhops Seat , in the way before we came to Cefena , 
 we law an old Infcription in Stone, fet up by a 
 little River fide, which I found to be the very 
 Decree of the old Senate of Rome , forbidding in 
 general, any Officer or Souldier whatfoever, to 
 pafs over the Rubicon , upon pain of being judg- 
 ed an Eenemy to his Country, and guilty of high 
 Treafon. By which Words I gathered, that this 
 little River here now called Tiftatello , was Multi- 
 con, , mentioned in the Decree of the Senate 5 
 and that this Decree pointed at Julius Cafar and 
 his Army. Yet Cafar being refolved to march 
 up to Rome with his Army, made a Speech to his 
 Souldiers j and finding a compliance in their refo- 
 lutions, pafled over Rubicon , crying out : Ja&a, 
 efi aka : We muft either Sink^ or Swim , and fo 
 pafied on to Rome y which he foon poflefled him- 
 felf of, and then of the World. When once pow- 
 erful Men draw their Swords, they throw away 
 their Scabbards y and when once they have offen- 
 ded beyond Pardon , they ftrike at the very 
 Throat of Authority 5 running upon that hor- 
 rid Maxime , that feeler a feekribusfunt tuenda. 
 
 From Forli we pafled on the Right hand of 
 Faenza , Faventia in Latin ( leaving the way on 
 the Left hand, which leads to Imola and Bolog- 
 nia) Faenza is a neat Town, as all the others we 
 
 had 
 
II 
 
 Part IL ScHopage t&JOUfff) Italy. 
 
 had pafled by before : But having no confidera- 
 ble thing in it, but white Earthen Pots, called 
 Veflels of Faenz.a y we Hayed not long in it, but 
 made towards Ferrara. In the way I found lit- 
 tle worth Obfervation, except only, that as we 
 Travelled one Night fomewhat late for Coolnefs, 
 
 I faw Millions of little Flies in the Air,carrying a 
 bright Light about them like Glow-worms. They 
 continued all the way to our Inn for two hours 
 after Sun fet, efpecially upon the Corn Fields 
 and high Grafs. It was huge pretty me thought, 
 to fee Heaven upon Earth almoH, and flying 
 Stars conduct us to our Lodging. A Poet would 
 have fworn by all the Cords of Apollo* s Harp, 
 that Jupiter then was making Vulcan pave the 
 Vault of Heaven with a Mofacl^ Work of Dia- 
 monds, and that thefe were only the fparks that 
 fell from him : Or that he was repairing the old 
 Caufey of the Via Lattea with frelh Stars, and 
 that thefe were the old ones which he had thrown 
 away. I catched fome of thefe fiery Flies, to fee 
 where it was that they carried their little Lan* 
 term and Candles , and I found it was in their 
 Tails. The Country People call them Luccicle , 
 
 And I believe, thefe are thofe Flies which Flirty PUn. i. is. 
 calls CicinddaS) and Ariftotle calls l6 - , 
 
 Faffing thus along we came late to a little Vil- 
 Ja£e, and the next Morning betimes to Ferrara . ? ma \ % e \ ^ 
 This Town of Ferrara was once the Seat of a So- Ferrara • 
 vereign Prince of the houfe of Efte , but for want 
 of Heirs Male, after the Death of Alfonfo the II.it 
 fell to the Church, and Clement the VIII. took 
 poffeffion of it in Perfon, by an Entry and Ce- 
 remony, worthy of the Pen of Cardinal Bern - 
 voglia who was there. The Town (lands in a 
 O 02, Plain, 
 
722 a cubage t&QUgfi Italy. Part II, 
 Plain, carrying above four Miles compafs ; it 
 hath a good Citadel , ftrong Walls, Ramparts, 
 Bulwork$,and a good Garrifon of Soldiers* Here 
 are fair Streets, and very handfom Pallaces * but 
 People are fomewhat thin. The things which I 
 faw here were thefe. 
 
 The Rari - I# The Domo, Ancient rather than Beautiful. 
 
 tia - 2. Over againft it, two Statues in Brafs, of 
 
 the Princes of the Houfe of Efte$ the one Duke ; 
 the other Marqu.it ; the one Sitting, the other 
 
 on Horfeback. 
 
 3. Behind thefe Statues is the Houfe of Juftice, 
 or Town-houfc. 
 
 4. The ftrong Pallace of the Dukes anciently, 
 is in the middle of the Town, with a great Mote 
 about it ; the Court within is painted with the 
 Pi&ures of all the Dukes of Ferrara : here the 
 Popes Legate lyeth. 
 
 The Via . 5* The Diamond Pallace, as they call it, is of 
 
 wond Pal - white Marble without, whofe Stones are all cut 
 iace. Diamond ways, into (harp Points. Having feen 
 it without, I longed to fee it within, hoping that 
 a Diamond Pallace without, would be all Car- 
 buncle and Pearl within. But I was deceiv’d* for 
 entring in, I found nothing worth the Pains of 
 going up the ugly Stairs* and the poor Woman 
 that kept the Houfe told me as much, as well as 
 the cold Kitchin. 1 wonder the Matter of this 
 Houfe doth not keep it always lock’d up, that 
 Strangers might value it by its outfide only, 
 which is admirable indeed. 
 
 ArinffoV 6 ' The Monaftery of the BenediBins is ftately, 
 tomb. in whofe Church 1 found the Tomb of Ariofta, 
 Author of the long Poem called Orlando Furiofo . 
 He was efteemed,in hisLife«tirae,a great Poet, and 
 
Part II. 9 (Hopap tf)?0ttg!j Italy. 2 2 3 
 
 as fuch was Crowned Laureat Poet,by the Empe- 
 ror Charles the V. but he was oftentimes feen, 
 even in the Streets, to be too much tranfported 
 with Poetick Fury,and to become Ariofto Fariofo , 
 while he was penning his Orlando. He had a rich 
 Vein, but a poor Purfe *, and while his head was 
 crowned with Lanrel y his Breeches were often 
 out behind, as well as thofe o £ Torquato Taffo y 
 of whom Balzac faith, that though he were a 
 good Poet, yet he had des fort mauvaifes chaufes, 
 
 7. The Carthufians Church is neat and full of 
 good Pictures. 
 
 8. The Church and Convent of the Carmelites 
 is alfo neat, in whofe Library I fa w a Manufcript 
 of John Bacon y and another of Learned Thomas 
 Waldenfts y both Englijh-Men y and both Learned 
 Men. 
 
 Here’s an Academy of Wits called Gli Elivati. the Acaae* 
 Of this Town was Hyronymw Savonarola , Au .myyfwits. 
 thor of the Triumphs Crucis 5 and Baptifta Gua- T/ f e J' ear72m 
 rini Author of the PaHorFido , 
 
 He that defires to know the Hiilory.of Ferrara , The&farj. 
 let him read Giovanni Baptifta Pigna , who hath 
 written of it, exProfejfo, 
 
 From Ferrara wq went to Padua in two days, 
 the Seafon being good and dry y otherwife in 
 Winter, it’s too deep a way to go by Land y there- 
 fore molt Men embark at Ferrara y and go by 
 Boat to Venice, The firft day palling over the Po 
 in a Boat at Francalino y we reached Ruigo the firfl 
 Town of the Venetian ftate. This Town is built 
 near where Adria (from whence the Adriatic Sea Adria ‘ 
 is called) once flood, and almofl upon its ruins. 
 
 It’s governed by a Podefta and a Capitano G rande y 
 as the other Towns of St. A<fark * are. Of this 
 Go 3 Town 
 
*te , $ mym ttouglj Italy. Part 11^ 
 
 Town was Ccelm Rhodiginm , a Man of various 
 Learning, as his Books (hew $ and Bonifacms 
 Bonifacii another learned Humanift; 
 
 From Ruigo we arrived at Padua betimes, but 
 the define of feeing Venice, made us haften away 
 the next day 5 deferring to fee Padua till our re- 
 turn from Venice. 
 
 Embarking then betimes in the Morning at 
 Padua in a Piotta, a neat little Barge, taken to our 
 felves, and much more honourable than to go in 
 the great Tilt-Boat, where all forts of loufy 
 Ruffians and idle People throng you up, we faw 
 a world of (lately Pallaces and Gardens, (landing 
 upon the Banks of the River Bronta , and (hewing 
 us. that we were approaching to a great Town 
 indeed. 
 
 Some five Miles (hort of Venice , we left the 
 River and the Horfes that drew us, and rowed 
 through the (hallow Sea which environeth Venice 
 on all fides, for above five Miles fpace. This 
 LaLtguua. low Sea is called here La Laguna - 7 and the Water 
 is fo (hallow that no great Ships can come to Ve- 
 nice, little VefTels come by certain Channels which 
 are well fortified with Gaftles, Forts and Chains, 
 fo that no Man can come to Venice , but with 
 leave, or knocks. We arrived there betimes, 
 and all the way we admired to fee fuch a (lately 
 City, lying as it were at Anchor, in the midft 
 of the Sea 5 and (landing fixed where every 
 thing elfe Floats. 
 
 ■ Origin Venice at firft was nothing but a company of 
 nf Venice, little dry Spots of Ground, which held up their 
 Heads in a (hallow Sea,furni(hed by (even Rivers, 
 
 Piavd, Sila y Livenz.a y To, Adige, Brenta y and 
 %tiliarnem % which run into it. To thefe little 
 
 dry 
 
Part II. 9 (Hopap Italy. 3 2 5 
 
 dry Spots of Ground, Fifhermen repaired anti- 
 ently for their Fifhing, and built little Cottages 
 upon them. But afterwards Italy being overrun 
 by Goths^ Hms , and Vifigoths , divers rich Men, 
 from feveral parts o{ Italy well asfrom Padua 7 
 fled hither with the beft of their Goods, to lave 
 them and themfelves in thefepoor Cottages, un- 
 known to thofe barbarous Nations: And finding 
 by Experience this to be a fafer place than any 
 elfe, they began to provide again ft thofe frequent 
 Difafters of barbarous Incurflons, by building 
 good Houfes here. This many Men did and 
 made at laft a fine Town here, and greater than 
 her Mother Padua. This happened twelve Hun- 
 dred years ago, which makes Venice glory, that 
 fhe is the antienteft Republick in Europe . To 
 which purpofe I cannot omit to tell you here a 
 pretty Story which was told me in Paris of a 
 Venetian Embaflador, who refiding in the Court 
 of France^ and finding himfelf in a Vifit, where 
 there were many Ladies,, was ferioufly asked by 
 a grave old Lady, (who heard him fpeak much 
 of the Seignory of Venice) whether the Seignory eJI elk 
 of Venice were fair or no ? Yes Madam faid he, belle ? 
 on of the faireft in Furope. Is (he great faid the 
 Lady again? Yes Madam faid the Embaflador, £/? eUo 
 fhe is great enough. Is fhe rich faid the Lady fS rand ^ 
 Worth Millions replied the Embaflador, Me- Eft elh 
 thinks then faid the Lady, fhe would be a good riche ? 
 Match for Monfieur the King’s Brother ; Yes Ma- Qudkai- 
 dam, replied he again, but that fhe is a little tnoge a die ? 
 old. Why how old is fhe I pray you, faid the 
 Lady ? Madam, anfwered the Embaflador, fhe 
 is about twelve Hundred years old. At which 
 the Company foiling, the good Lady preceivtt 
 
 Oo 4 her 
 
226 $ Clcragc t&OUgf) Italy. Part II. 
 
 her Error with hlufhing, and Adonfieur was un- 
 married for that prefent. Indeed Cofmography , 
 and Topography are hard Words ; and as the old 
 faying is y aliqud Sc eptrum ^aliquid Pleftr um^z Look- 
 ing-Giafs is not the fame thing with a Map. 
 
 Venice As for Venice now, ’tis one of the faireit Ci~ 
 ties in Europe , and called by the Proverbial Epe- 
 thite, Venetia la Riccha, Venice the Rich. It’s 
 well nigh eight Milns in Compafs, and in form 
 fomething like a Lute. It hath no Wall about 
 it to defend it, but a Mote of Water, that is 
 five Miles broad, which furrounds it. It hath 
 no Suburbs, but a world of little Iflands clofe 
 by it. The Streets of Venice are all full of Wa- 
 ter *, and for this Reafon they ufe no Coaches 
 here, but vifit in Boats. 
 
 rhg Gon . Thefe Boats they call here Gondolat , and there 
 
 arias.' are above twenty Toufand of them. For be- 
 fides, that every noble Venetian or rich Man, 
 hath two or three of his own ; there are always 
 a World of them Handing together at feveral 
 publick Wharfs *, fo that you need but cry out. 
 Gondola , and you have them lanch out prefen tly 
 to you: Thefe Gandolah are pretty neat black 
 Boats like our Oars, holding fix Perfons conveni- 
 ently upon the Seats, which are covered over 
 head with a thick black Cloath, with Windows 
 at either fide, which in Winter defends you from 
 the Wind, and in Summer from the Sun. The 
 multitude of thefe Gondola * s help to employ a 
 great many poor Men, and to make a world of 
 Mariners for publick Service, in time of need. 
 Ordinary people here may go up and down the 
 Town by little back Alleys, which they call 
 her zCahy thefe by winding up and down, ancj 
 
 deli- 
 
Fart II. a 2Japage t&Ottgf) Italy. 9 a 7 
 
 delivering them over feveral Bridges, hugely 
 puzzle Strangers at firft. Of thefe Bridges there 
 are above 1500 in Venice, all of Stone, and of one Bridges in 
 Arch reaching from one fide of the Street to the Venice, 
 other, while the Gondolas run under the Arch. 
 
 The greateft of thefe Bridges is called the Rialto , The Rialt* 
 built over the Canal Grande, all of white Marble. 
 
 This is one of the fineft Bridges in Europe , be- 
 caufe of the one Arch only, and of the vaft 
 widenefs and height of that Arch 5 the Channel 
 here being as wide as any Man can throw a Stone. 
 
 This Bridge bears upon its Back two rows of 
 Shops, and little Houles covered with Lead ; and 
 left this great weight Ihould make theFoundation 
 fink, they built upon Piloties , that is, great Trees 
 rammed into the Ground,To the number of fix 
 Thoufand in all. In fine, this Bridge co ft two 
 Hundred and fifty Thoufand Crowns. It were 
 a fine fight to fee, in an hard Froft, the ftreets of 
 Venice all frozen, and People walking u p and down 
 upon Diamond Streets, or a Chryftal Pavement. 
 
 In the mean time it’s no unpleafing fight to fee 
 the Streets full of Water, and fuch ftately Pal- 
 laces on either fide : Efpecially the Canal Grande , 
 which runs quite through the middle of the Ci- 
 ty, and is hedged in on either fide with ftately 
 Houfes ; among which are counted two Hundred 
 Pallaces fit to lodg any King. The whole City 
 hath in it Thirty two Monafteries of Religious 
 Men,Twenty eight of Religious Women; Seven- 
 ty Parilh Churches; and about an Hundred and 
 fourfcore Thoufand Inhabitants. 
 
 Having faid thus much of the Situation of 
 Venice , 1 will now fpeak of the Government, 
 Strength, Riches, Religion, and Intereftofthis 
 
 Republick, 
 
228 
 
 The Go - 
 wernment. 
 The great 
 Council . 
 
 The Doge. 
 
 3 CJopage t&IOUgt) Italy. Part II. 
 Republick, and then fall to the particulars I Taw 
 in it. 
 
 For the Government here, it’s purely Ar'tfio - 
 cratical , by the Doge, and the Nobles. The 
 great Council confifts of two Thoufand Gentle-* 
 men. This is the Bajis of the State Government : 
 Becaufe that out of thefe arechofenall the other 
 Magiftrates, Poteftas , Generals , Capitani , Gran- 
 fa, providetori Generali , Embaffadors , &c. This 
 great Counfel affembles frequently in one great 
 Room of the Doge's Pallace, where there are 
 Seats for them all, and where Bufinefles are voted 
 by Baloting ; that is, by putting in a clofe dou- 
 ble Box of two Colours, a little Ball about the 
 bignefs of a Button, which is made fofoft, that 
 no Man can hear into whether part of the dou- 
 ble Box the Ball falls* Every Gentleman in this 
 great Council hath two of thefe Balls given him, 
 one white, and the other red : The one fignifying 
 the Affirmative vote, the other the Negative : So 
 that they give their votes fecretly, and without 
 being known afterwards for what party they 
 flood, or without giving example to others to 
 follow them in their Votes, as leading Men 
 would do; and fo draw all into Faction andCabals. 
 
 To run through all the Magiftrates and Officers 
 of this Republick, the Pregiadi , the favi Grandi , 
 the favi fa Terra ferns a, the Javi de gli Ordini 9 
 the Configlio de died , &c. would be a work too 
 long for a Traveller, and too tedious for my 
 Reader. I will only fpeak oftheSupream Magi- 
 ftrate here, the Dog e, or Prince as they call him, 
 who represents the Head of this Republick.He is 
 now chofen by the whole Senate, and is for Life : 
 Heretofore he was Hereditary, till the year 1 032. 
 
Part II. 9 t&OUglj Italy. 
 
 The manner of Baloting in chooling the Doge, 
 is fuch a puzzle, that I had rather you fhould read 
 it in SabeUicui , than I give my felf the trouble of 
 defcribing it. For the moft part, they chufe a Man 
 well ftricken in years, and one who hath made his 
 Circle of Embaffies: That is, hath been fifteen 
 Years Embaffador in the chief Courts of Europe, 
 three Years a piece in every one : And fo acquired 
 unto himfelf a perfect knowledge of all States, 
 and State affairs.Beingchofen once,he cannot ftir 
 out of the Laguna without leave.Mor at home can 
 he do all things of his own Head j but with the 
 advice of his Counfellers, who are fix, chofen out 
 of the moft honourable Gentlemen of the City. 
 Thefe fix fit with him in Counfel, and execute 
 with him all Bufinefles, as to give Audience, read 
 Letters, grant Priviledges, and the like : Which 
 cannot be executed by the Doge , if there be not 
 four Counfellers with him ;and yet they can exe- 
 cute and aft without the Doge j and it’s they that 
 have Authority to propofe in the great Counfel, 
 things of concern. In giving Suffrages, his Suf- 
 frage is no more than an ordinary Senators in the 
 Senate^but he hath two Voices in the great Colin- 
 fel. The Doge and thefe Counfellours are called 
 It Collegio, but then in main publick aaffirs there 
 enter into this Counfel, Six Savigrandi , five Sa- 
 vi di Terra Ferma , five Save de gli Or dial , and 
 Three Cap de Quaranta Crwinali^hh full Col- 
 lege diftributes Bufinefs to the other Magiftrates 
 to be handed, having been headed here. 
 
 The Habit of the Doge is ancient, and hath 
 Something of the Pontifical Habit of it His Pomp, 
 Train, and Lodging are ail Princely *, and in pub- 
 lic Functions he hath carried before him the eight 
 
 Silver 
 
2 3° 3 dopage tljjotlgl) Italy. Part II. 
 
 Silver Trumpets, the gxziXVmbrtlU of Cloth of 
 Tiffue,the Culhion, the Chair,the gilt Sword, and 
 a white wax Candle carried by a Child. All Let- 
 ters of State are written in his Name, and Money 
 is coyned in his Name, but the Impronto , or 
 ftampof it, is always the figure of St. Mark, or 
 St. Marks Lyon. For the moll part the Doge is 
 Pmuratt chofen out of thofe whom they call here, Procu - 
 ri'&sant rator i di St. i^imThefe Procuratori are of high 
 Mam. rank and efteem in this Republick. Heretofore 
 there was but one Procurator i di San Marco, whole 
 Office was to have a care of all things belonging 
 to St. Marlfs Church, and the Treafure, But now 
 there are Twenty five, moll of which have made 
 their Circles of Embaffies in foreign Courts, and 
 are fit Wood to make Doges of : Though fome of 
 them of late have beenaffiumed to that dignity for 
 Money $ the State now making Money of all 
 Men, as well as of all things. 
 
 Their As for the Strength and Power of Veriice,i\s ve- 
 strength, ry great, their PolTeffions in Italy , being full as 
 great as the Pope’s 5 and out of Jtalfjhx greater. 
 In Italy they hold fourteen Provinces under them. 
 They are Lords of the Gulph, or Adriatic Sea . 
 
 They pofiels the Coall of Dalmatia , beyond the 
 Gulph. They hold the lies of Corfu , Cephalonia 
 and Zant. 
 
 Candia , or the lie of Creta , belongs to them by^ 
 due.The Kingdom of Cyprus alfois pretended to 
 by them* and by it and Candy, whole two Crowns 
 they Ihew us in the Treafury/'ewe is lliled Sere - 
 mjfima. The Kingdom of Cyprus came to the Ve- 
 netians by Catherine Cornaro, who was made Heir 
 of it by her Son, the King thereof, who died young 
 and without IfTue.about the year 1438/rhe ftoxy 
 
 is 
 
Part II. £ 3 opaBC t&Ottgl) Italy. 231 
 
 is this ^Catharine was Daughter of Marco Cornaro, ufchi in 
 and Neece of Andrew Cornaro, two Noblemen of 
 Venice, Andrew was lent Audit ore Cener al into Hi ^ or 
 the Kingdom of Cypru* , in the time of James 
 King of that Ifland, and helpt him to many thou- 
 fand Crowns, whereby he fettled his tottering 
 Crown.One day as the King was talking familiar- 
 ly with him, he let fall (whether by chance, or 
 defign ) a little Pi&ure in Miniature , of a very 
 handfom Lady.The King curious to fee it,caird 
 for it civilly ,and viewing it well, fell hugely in love 
 with the Original of An drew allured him 
 
 to be far handfomer than theCopy ^and withal ad- 
 ded,that if hisMajefty liked her,lhe was hisNeece, 
 and that therefore he offered her freely to him for 
 his Wife, with all the Money he had already lent 
 him, and an hundred thoufand Crowns more. 
 
 The King bit willingly at thele two Baits, Beauty 
 arid Money, and was not quiet till he had married 
 her. Of her he had but one Son, whom ( dying ) 
 he left under his Mothers Prote&ion,but he dying 
 alfo not long after, left hisMother heirof theKing- 
 dom y and (he at her Death, left this Crown and 
 Kingdom to the Venetians by Will and Gift.This 
 wholeHiftory I faw Painted in the Pallace of Cor- 
 naro by the hand of Paulo Vernofe. As for the 
 ftrong holds which the Venetians poffefs in Italy, 
 they are thele : Crema , Bergamo , Brefcia , Pefchte - 
 ra y Chiofa,an& Palma Nuova in Fruili. This lalfc Palfra 
 is one of the beft places in Europe. It hath nine Nuova. 
 Royal Baftions, Eighteeen Cavaliers, which com- 
 mand all the Neighbouring Campagnia : It hath 
 ditches of Water about it, thirty Paces broad and 
 twelve deep ^ Its Ramparts behind the Wall are 
 high and covering, and they are always fringed 
 
 with 
 
* 
 
 232 9 (HOpap tf)?OUgf) Italy. Part II. 
 
 with an hundred pieces of Cannon, and ready to 
 receive fix Hundred more, which are always in 
 its MagazJm, ready upon all occafions. And for 
 Men and Armour, as the great Arfenal in Venice 
 hath always Arms in readinefs for an hundred 
 Thoufand Men 3 fo this State being peopled with 
 three Millions of Men, would eafily find three or 
 four hundred Thoufand Men of Service, and an 
 hundred Gallies ; Yet their ordinary Militia is 
 but of fourfcore Thoufand Foot, and fome fix 
 Thoufand Horfe 3 and about thirty Gallies. 
 
 Their As for their Riches, though their ordinary 
 Riches. Revenues ( before the late Wars with the Turk) 
 exceeded not four Millions, yet now they fpur 
 themfe]ves,and theCountry up to exceffive fums. 
 Few die but they bequeath fomethingto fuch a 
 Chriftian Service as this War is. Befides this, the 
 Taxes are much augmented, and feizures and 
 forfeitures more narrowly looked into, to help 
 publick expenfes. In fine, befides this, the great 
 trading which Venice driveth ( Aleppo alone bring- 
 ing in fome years, four Millions of Gold ) the 
 Venetians have found out a very compendious way 
 to raife, in one quarter of an Hour, and by one 
 dafh of a Pen, fifty Hundred Thoufand Crowns, 
 to help themfelves withal at a dead lift, and in- 
 commodate no Man. This they did, Anno. 1646 
 when fifty rich Families in Venice gave to the 
 State an hundred Thoufand Crows a piece, to be 
 made noble Venetians . The like courfe they took 
 to raife Money, about an hundred Years ago, 
 when they were fet upon by mofl: of the Princes 
 of Ear ope at once. 
 
 Tbeb R e > As f° r t ^ ie ^ r Religion, its Roman Catholick^nd 
 ligin. 2 they have never changed it fince the beginning 
 
 of 
 
Part II. 9 SJopage tfftOUBt) Italy. 235 
 of their Republick. Hence Mr. Raymond in his 
 Mercnrio Jtalico, page 188. faith truly, that Ve- 
 nice hath this property above all other States 5 
 that fhe is a Virgin, and more, from the firft in- 
 fancy, Chriftian •, having never yet fell from her 
 Principles either in Government or Religion. 
 
 It began to be built the very fame year that St. 
 Auguftin died, as Baronins obferves. 
 
 As for the Intereft of the Publick, they are 
 now well with the Emperor ; not out with Spain , y** ln “ 
 nor too fecure of his Friendfhip 5 kind with the m 8 
 French , as long as they keep out of Italy $ well af- 
 fected to England , and juft friends with the Pope. 
 
 Now for the particulars which I faw in Venice, 
 they were thefe. 
 
 1. The Men themfelves here, who looked like 
 Men indeed : And as a Philofopher anciently faid 
 that when he came from Corinth to Sparta, he Tee- 
 med to come from Horfes to Men: So me thought, 
 when I came from France to Venice I came from 
 Boys to Men. For here I faw the handfomeft, 
 the moft lightly, the moft proper and grave Men 
 that ever I faw any where elfe. They wear al- 
 ways in the Town ( I fpeak of the Noblemen) a 
 long black Gown, a black Cap knit, with an edg- 
 ing of black Wool about it, like a Fringe, an an- 
 cient and manly wear, which makes them look 
 like Senators, Their Hair is generally the belt 
 I ever faw any where \ thefe little Caps not pref- 
 fing it down as our Hats do, and Periwigs are 
 here forbid. Under their long Gowns ( which 
 fly open before ) they have handfom black Suits 
 of rich Stuffs, with Stockins and Garters, and 
 Spanifh Leather Shoos neatly made. In a word, 
 
 I never fo many proper Men together, nor fo 
 
234 9 dosage tfj? 0 tlgfj Italy. Part II, 
 
 wife, as I faw dayly their walking upon the Piaz- 
 za of St. Mark - 1 may boldly fay , that I faw there 
 five hundred Gentlemen walking together every 
 day, every one of which was able to play the Em- 
 baffador in any Princes Court of Europe. But the 
 mifer y is, that we ftrangers cannot walk there with 
 them, and talk with them, but mud keep out of 
 their way,and dand a loof off.The reafon is this: 
 This ftate(as all Republics are) being hugely jea- 
 lous of her liberty and prefervation, forbids her 
 Noblemen and Senators to converfe with Fo- 
 reign Embaflfadors, or any men that either is an 
 a&ual Servant or Follower of an EmbafTador, or 
 hath any the lead relation to any Princes Agent, 
 without exprefs leave: And this upon pain of be- 
 ing fufpefted as a Traitor, and condignly punch- 
 ed. This makes them fhy to all Strangers, not 
 knowing what relation they may have to fome 
 Foreign States-man or Agent.For the fame rea- 
 fon, they will not let their Wives vifit the Wives 
 of Foreign EmbafTadors refiding in Yenice, for 
 fear of being fufpedted to commit Treafon by 
 proxy. They have in the Wail of the Pallace, in 
 divers places certain wide Mouths of Marble 
 Stone, over which I found written thefe words ; 
 Demme fecYete , private informations, into which 
 they cadfecretly Papers of accufations,by which 
 they accufe fecretiy any Officer or Nobleman, 
 whom they durft»not accufe publickly.This makes 
 Men dand hugely upon their guard, and be wary 
 with whom they converfe, and what they fay. 
 The noble 2 As f° r the Women here,fthey would gladly 
 Women of get the fame reputation that theirHusbands have, 
 Venice. of being tall and handfom 5 but they over-do it 
 with their horrible Cioppw , or high Sbooes, 
 
 • which 
 
Part II. 9 230 WC f) Italy, 235 
 
 which I have often feen to be a fall half yard high.' 
 
 I confefs, I wondered atfirft, to fee Women go 
 upon Stilts, and appear taller by the Head than 
 any Man 5 and not to be able to go any whether 
 without refting their Hands upon the Shoulders of 
 two grave Matrons that ufher them : But at laft, 
 
 I perceived that it was good Policy, and a pretty 
 ingenious way either to clog Women at Home by 
 fuch heavy Ihoes (as the Egyptians kept their 
 Wives at home by allowing them no fhoes at all j) 
 or at leaft to make them notable to go either far, 
 or alone, orinvifibly. As for the young Ladies of 
 this Town, that are not marryed, they are never 
 feen abroad, but masked like Mafcarades in a 
 ftrange Difguife,at the Fair time, and other public 
 folemnities or fhows, being at other times brought 
 up in Monafteries of Nuns, till they be marryed. 
 
 3. Then I went to the Church of St. Mar^the E- st. Mirks 
 vangelift,whofe body lyeth here, having been tran- church. 
 Dated hither from Alexandria, 820 and odd years 
 ago*,having ever fince been one of the chief Patrons 
 of this (late, as his Lion hath ever fince beentheArms 
 of the Republic, and its Seal in all public writings. 
 
 This Church is built a la Thedefca, as they call it, 
 and as the beft Churches built about thofe Times, 
 were. Its neither great , nor high ; but fo rich for 
 the materials, that nothing but Mofaick work and 
 Marble appear in it. The Roof and the Walls a 
 good way down, are curioufly Painted with Mo- 
 faici 1 Hiftories and Pictures* and the reft of the 
 wall is rare marble. Among tho fe Afofaick Fitturcs \ 
 there are to be feen in the vault of the Arch o- 
 ver the Door of the Treafury, two old Pictures 
 the one of St Dominick# the other of St. Francis ; 
 both* made before they inftituted their feveral 
 
 P p Or- 
 
a dlovm ttoOUgft Italy. Part II. 
 Orders, and yet both in the Religious Habits 
 which thofe of their Orders wear ^ and all this out 
 of the predictions of Joachim (Abbat of Caracwntj 
 9 and not of S.Flear^s fome wrongly call bim) who 
 lived before thefe Orders were inftituted. The 
 Picture alfo of the Pope, near to the Pictures of 
 the forefaid Saints, is faid to be a Prophetical Pi- 
 cture of the faid Abbats defer ibing } reprefenting 
 the laft Pope that fhall govern the flock of Chrift, 
 when all the world ihall be of one Religion. The 
 Pavement of this Church is fuitable to the reft, 
 being in fome places compofed of vaft Marble 
 {tones, naturally reprefenting the Waves of the 
 Sea $ in other places its curioufly inlaid with ftones 
 of feveral colors expreffing Flowers, Stars, Birds, 
 Beafts and the like :Among which ftones I precei- 
 ved here and there fome Turky ftones of great va- 
 lue among us, but here not fcorning to be trod 
 upon. Thirty fix Marble Pillars of a round form, 
 and two foot thick in Diameter, hold up the roof 
 of this Church. The high Altar is a rare piece, e- 
 fpecially when you fee the back of it open, as I did 
 upon the Afcenfion Eve. This back of the Altar 
 is richly adorned with divers rows of little ena- 
 melled Pictures,* laGreca , fet in Gold, and en- 
 riched with brave Pearl and Pretious Stones inter- 
 mingled every where between the Pictures. This 
 moft rich Ornament, or back of the Altar, was 
 given by a Doge of Venice, and brought trom Con - 
 ftantinople. Behind the high Altar ftands the Altar 
 of our Blefled Sacrament, where there are two 
 tranfparent round Pillars, four yards high. In the 
 Sacrifty, which is hard by, l faw neat Mofaic work 
 in the roof ^ and an admirable Picture of St Hie- 
 rom of the fame work alfo. Round about the in- 
 
 fide 
 
part II. a (Uopasye tfjiouefj Italy. 237 
 fide of the Church , over the Pillars, hang the 
 Scutcheons of feveral Doges , in a large fize. For the 
 Doges at their Creation, caufe three things to be 
 made: Firft their Picture which is fet up in the 
 Sala of the great Council : Secondly their Arms 
 or Scutchion, which are fometimes of Silver, and 
 of an huge fizej and are fet up after th t Doges death 
 in the Church for ever. Thirdly they rauft make 
 their Pi&ure in the Collegio , or Pregiadi . 
 
 4. From the Church we were let in to fee the rfo Tna- 
 Treafury of St which joyns to the Church. Jury of st. 
 It was (hewn us by the (pedal leave from above, Mar ^ 
 and by two noble Venetians, who are always pre- 
 fent when it is (hewn. We were firft (hewn the 
 Spiritual Treafury, and then the Temporal ; that 
 is, firft the Relics and then the Jewels. The Re- The spirit 
 lies were thefe principally. A great authentical J al Trea ~ 
 piece of the holy Crofs, above a fpan long, hiy*'*' 
 the greateft piece I have 1‘een any where, except 
 that in the Holy Chappel in Paris , and though 
 fome enemies of the very Crofs of Chrift, as well 
 as of other Relics, do jeeringly fay, that there 
 are fo many pieces of the Holy Crofs (hewn in 
 the World, they if they were all put together, they 
 would make a Cart load of Wood : Yet I dare 
 maintain more probably, that all the pieces, any 
 one Man can fay, are (hewn in Europe (and 1 have 
 feen a good part of it) would not make fo much 
 of the Crofs, as one of tbofe parts on which our 
 Saviours hands were nailed : Seeing the greateft 
 part that we find of it, is no thicker than an or- 
 dinary mans Finger, and little longer than a Span; 
 and that very part of it which I faw in the Popes 
 own Sacrifty in the Vatican , is no longer than a 
 mans little Finger ; And if the King of France { St. 
 
 P p 2 LemJ) 
 
238 a dovage t&OUg& Italy. Part II. 
 
 LewU) in his two expeditions into the Holy Land, 
 could get only fo little a piece of it, as that which 
 is fhown in Paris , in the Saint Chappelleihnd if the 
 Pope himfelf could get no greater a piece of it, 
 than mentioned above, I do not wonder, if in o- 
 ther places, they (hew fuch little fhreds qfit*> as 
 altogether would not make two foot of Timber, 
 much lefs a Cart load. We faw alfo h^re a finger 
 of St.AfoH^His Ring with a Stone in it,which our 
 Lapidaries cannot tell how to name. Some of our 
 Saviours Blood, gathered up in his Paflion, with 
 the Earth it was fpilt upon. A thorn of the Holy 
 Crown of Thorns. A Nail which nailed the two 
 pieces of the Crofs together. A Finger of St.Ma* 
 ry Magdalen. A piece of St. John Baptift's Cranium . 
 A Tooth of St. Mark, A piece of St. John Baptift* s 
 Habit. Some of our Blefled Ladies Hair. An anci- 
 ent Pidture of Sr. John Baptift, enamelled in Gold. 
 A piece of our Saviours white Robe when he was 
 fcourged.A very ancient Picture of our Blefled La- 
 dy, carried about anciently by Cenfiantine the 
 Great, who had it always with him. One of the 
 Stones of the Torrent ^ wherewith St. Stephen was 
 Stoned. And in fine, the Sword of St. Peter. 
 rbsTemf - Then leading us to the temporal Treafxre t in 
 
 rai Trea - another Room, they (hewed us ( by Candle light, 
 J ur *' as they did alfo the SpiritualTr^/w^thefe things. 
 Firft, the twelve Crowns of Gold, and the twelve 
 breaft and back pieces ( like Womens clofe bo- 
 dies ) of beaten Gold alfo, fet thick, as well as the 
 Crowns, with exquifite Pearl, both round and 
 big: Twelve young Virgins ufed to wear them 
 anciently upon a Feaft day. Then three great Car- 
 buncles, one whereof weigheth fix Ounces, and is 
 bigger than an ordinary Hens Egg : They value 
 
Part II St aiopaffe tfj?aug& Italy. 
 
 it at two Hundred Thoufand Crowns. Then the 
 twoCrownsofGold fet thick with precious Stones;, 
 one being the Crown of the Kingdom of Cypirw *, 
 the other of the ^Kingdom of Candy . After 
 this they ftiewed us the Doge’s Crown, called 
 here, U Corno , becaufe its made fomewhat fharp 
 and turning in at the top like a Horn. It’s fee 
 rotind with a clofe row of excellent Pearl, each, 
 one as big as an Hafel Nut, with a vaft Ruby in 
 the front of It, worth a HundredThoufandCrowns, 
 fay they, and one of the faireft Diamonds in Eu- 
 rope, in the top of it. Then they Ihewed us many 
 other rich things, as the Flower de Lace of Gold, 
 with a rich Diamond in it, given by Henry II L 
 oi France j at his palling by Venice , when he came 
 out of Poland. The two Vnicorns Horns, far lefs 
 than that at St. Denys in France ; but no lefs true. 
 The two Crucifixes fet with Pearland rich Jewels, 
 and in great number. The great Candlefticks and 
 Thurible of beaten Gold, and curioufly wrought, 
 each' one being almoft as heavy as a Man can car- 
 ry in both hands.The great Chalice of gold, as great 
 as a man can carry in both hands. A Saphyr weigh- 
 ing ten Ounces. A cup or dilh,as broad and deep as 
 an ordinary Cailote (or Cap, which we wear un- 
 der our Hats ) and all of one Turky-ft one entire, 
 and of huge Value 5 It was fent unto this Repub- 
 lic^ by a King of Perfia, A Velfel like a Tan- 
 kard, of a rich Gameo ; its Handel being* curioufly 
 engraven with a Diamond. A little Vafe of the 
 roots of Emerand. Another of Sardonick. A great 
 cup of Agate. Another of Roman Agate, far fi- 
 ner than the former, and more transparent. A 
 rich Pax of Mother of Pearl. A Spanifi Embaf- 
 fador, once viewing this T reafure, took a Candle 
 
 P p 3 and 
 
. 3^0 9 IXmQZ tljjougl) Italy. Part It 
 
 and looked curioufly under the long Tables, up- 
 on which thefe rich things are expofed 5 and be- 
 ing asked what he looked for, anfwered *, that he 
 looked whether this Treafure had Roots or no , 
 as his Mailers Treafure had, and therefore grow* 
 eth yearly: Meaning the India Fleet of Spain , 
 which bringeth home yearly to the King of Spain 7 s 
 Coffers and Treafure, twelve Millions, 
 jbe Doges' Having feen this Treafure, and thanked the 
 Paiiace? two noble Venetians that flood by, and requited 
 the under Officers that fhewed it ; we went into 
 the Doge's Pall ace, which joyns.to St.Af^Cburch$ 
 and mounting up the open flairs into theopenGal- 
 lery,we faw the two great Marble Statues of Mars 
 and Neptune , which ftand at the Head of thefe 
 Stairs, and fignifie the flrength of the Venetians , 
 both by Sea and Land. They are excellent pie- 
 ces, otherwife great Sanfovinus would never have 
 owned them by writing under them, Opus San* 
 fov'wl This open Gallery led us into a world of 
 Chambers of Juftice and Clerks Offices, all throng- 
 ed with buhnefs and bufy Men. Going up from 
 hence into a higher ftory,we faw the Doge's Cham- 
 bers of Audience, his Anti-chambers , his Dining- 
 room, and the like. From thence we were led in- 
 to feveral great Chambers of Council, all rarely 
 well painted. After that we faw the great Cham- 
 ber, or Sala y of the Senate-houfe, where the No- 
 bles meet upon affairs, as great as the Chamber. 
 For here they meet about the chufing of publick 
 Officers, either for the governing of the City or 
 Army: And fometimes they have been forced to 
 flay there eight days ( faith Sabellicus ) not being 
 able to agree about the Elections \ they not being 
 permitted to depart thence till they agree. This 
 
 Senate^ 
 
Part It 9 aiopage t&atlglj Italy. 24 1 
 Senate-houfe or great Chamber, is above three- 
 fcore paces long, and thirty wide. Its full of Seats 
 for the Noble Venetians^ to the uumber of two 
 Thoufand Men, who have right to enter here. 
 
 It’s painted on all Tides by the rareft Painters chat 
 were in Italy , when this Room was made. Over 
 the Doge's Throne, is a rare piece of painting, co- 
 vering the whole end of the Room above, and 
 representing Heaven in a glorious manner. h’sof 
 the Hand of Tintoret. 1 he great Pictures upon 
 that Ude of the Room, which looks towards the 
 Court of the Pallace, contain the Hiftory of Pope 
 Alexander the III. and the Emperor Frederic Bar- 
 barojfa . I faw alfo in this great Room, and in the 
 next joyning to it, the true Pi&ures of all the 
 Doges of Venice.ln the other Chambers of this Pal- 
 lace, in the Churches, and other Pallaces of this 
 Town, I faw fo many, and fo rare pieces of pain- 
 ting^ Tman'rmoret Bdhno, Gentile , C aft el, Fran* 
 co^BaJfano, Paolo Veronefe , Perdonone and others, 
 that with Madam Pomes leave, I dare boldly fay, 
 that no place of Italy hath fo many rare Pictures 
 in it, as Venice hath 5 and perchance, you will be 
 of my Opinion, if you read the curious Book of 
 Podolfi , who hath written the lives of the Pain- 
 ters of Venice^ and the Venetian State, and fets down 
 where their prime pieces are to be feen. 
 
 7. Having feen thefe Chambers of Judicature^ The at tit 
 we were led about to the Sala of the Configlio de drfenal. 
 Died (otherwife called, the little Arfenai) in the 
 Pallace ftill. It's a curious light, and therefore net 
 to be omitted by my Traveller. There are Arms 
 in it for a Thoufand Men, ready upon all occa- 
 fions of Sedition or Treafon. The Muskets are 
 always charged and primed, and every fix Months 
 
 Pp 4 they 
 
9 (Homage tD?OUg6 Italy. Part li. 
 they difcharge them, to charge them a frefli. Pikes 
 and Swords are alfo fo ordered here, that by pluck- 
 ing a firing, they fall into the hands of thofe that 
 fnould ufe them: So that in lefs than half an hour 
 a thoufand Men may Tally out armed. In the end 
 of the great Room where the Muskets hang, (lands 
 a great Iron Ball pierced through like a Baske t 
 hilr, and four times as big as a Soldiers Helmet, 
 withm which there is a Spring, which being un- 
 cock’d by the pulling of aGord, (trikes fire into 
 Gunpowder, which lieth round about within this 
 ball, in a train, and there are fo many feveral 
 ends of Match as there are Muskets here* half 
 of the Match hanging out of the holes of the Ball, 
 the other half being within, and reaching into the 
 train of Powder : So that the firfl; Man that (hould 
 come in and pluck theforefaid Cord, would pre- 
 (ently (Irik fire, and light the Match all at once * 
 and then overy Man catching a Musket, and one 
 of thefe Matches lighted , they are armed in a 
 moment. This Armory is to fecure the Doge and 
 the Senators (while they are affembled in Coun- 
 t'd) from (uch like Treafbns as have been plotted 
 againfithem, whilfl they were fitting in Counfel. 
 And for this purpofe, there’s a door which open- 
 eth out of the Senate-houfe, into this Armory } 
 and the Keys of it are always laid near the Doge , 
 when he firs here in Confultation : Nor is this fo 
 much an Italian Jealoufy, as a prudent Caution 
 caufed by pad Dangers. For they (hew us in the 
 great Arfenal, the Armory (with one Arm only, 
 to be worn under a Venetian Gown, while the 
 other Arm was fhowed bare, to take off all fufpi- 
 tion ) of Bajamante Theopoli and his Complices, to 
 the number of Eight Hundred Men, who intend- 
 ed 
 
Part It a GJopage tl)?OUS& Italy. 24? 
 
 ed to kill the whole Senate, while it was aflem- 
 bled *, and make Bajamante Matter of Venice, But 
 the Plot was dafht in the Execution *, becaufeite- 
 jamanttfs Brains were dafli’d out by a poor Wo- 
 man, who feeing him march under her window 
 in the head of his rebellious crew, threw down 
 from her Window, a great earthen Flower-pot 
 upon his Head, and killed him dead. His party fee- 
 ing this, retired, and were foon fubdued : And 
 his Houfe was turned into a Shambles for Butch- 
 ers ; a fit difgrace for him who would have been 
 the Butcher of his Prince and Countrimen. Here 
 alfo, in this Arfenal, we faw the Sword and Arms 
 of brave Scanderbeg , Prince of Albania , who won 
 feven Battels over feven,the moft illuftrious Baf- 
 fas the great Tur\ had, and died after all, peace- 
 ably in his Eftates, in fpkeof Amnrath. Us faid, 
 that the great rehearing how Scanderbeg with 
 his Sword had cloven Men in two, fent to him ; 
 and defired him to fend him his Sword, his cut- 
 ting Sword $ which he did : The Turk tried it up- 
 on his Slaves, and finding that he could not cleave 
 Men as Scanderbeg had done, Tent him word, that 
 he had not fent him his true Sword \ to whom 
 Scanderbeg replied, that he had fent him indeed 
 his Sword, but not his Arm. As for this Sword, 
 which they call here Scanderbeg* s Sword, its a 
 broad thin Blade of a reafonable length, but light, 
 and of as good Metal almott, as its Matter. We 
 law here many other curiofities : As the Standard 
 of the Doge Zani , who reftored Pope Alexander 
 the III. unto his Seat again $ with his Sword ,Buck- 
 ler and Helmet. The Standard of the great Turk. 
 
 The Standard of Horfes hair belonging alfo to the 
 great Turk^ and which he hung out always be** 
 
244 MtopagetSlOUgf) Italy. Part II. 
 
 fore Battle, as a fignal of combat. It was taken 
 by a French Man called Ciotar. The Statues of Lu- 
 dovico S for z,a Duke of Milan find of his Wife Vifi 
 conti . The Statue or head of Carara , whom they 
 call the Tyrant, but how truly I know not: The 
 Statue or head in Brafs of brave Venerio, General 
 of the Venetians , in the Battle of Lepanto . The 
 Head in Brafs, alfo of brave Bragandino y flead alive 
 by th eTurk* for his Countries Service.The Pidure 
 of Santajuftina in a great Cafe fet with rich Stones. 
 This Cafe was made for a great Looking-Glafs 
 which the Venetians fent unto the Sultanefs of the 
 great Turks, but the Ship that carried it, meeting 
 in the way a Frigat which brought the News of a 
 great Vidor y gotten over the Turks by the Veneti- 
 ans upon Santa Juflin\ day, it retured back a- 
 gain with the prefentj and the Senate caufed the 
 Glafs to be taken out, and Santa Juftind*s Pidure 
 to be fet in Place of it. Then we faw a rare Carpet , 
 or rather a curious piece pf Stuff with Figures in 
 it, fent to the Reipublick of Venice by a King of 
 Perfia . The habits of two noble Chine /?, who were 
 Baptized at Venice. The Armour of brave Catta 
 Mela , with the Pidure of a Cat in his Head-piece. 
 The Armour of fome of the ancient Doges of Ve- 
 nice , who, to the number of Forty or Fifty, w.ent 
 to War in Perfon,and did fuch things there, as to 
 make their very Armor to be Honourable. The 
 Habit, Buckler, and Sword of a King of Perfia 
 the Arms are fet with rich Stones. The Armor 
 of Henry the IV of France , with his Pocket Piftol. 
 The Armor of the Duke of Rohan . The com- 
 pleat Armour of a little Boy about ten years old, 
 who was found dead in a Battle, fighting for the 
 ^Venetians and his Country ^ and not known who 
 
 be 
 
Part II. 9 (Uopage tljiouglj Italy. 
 
 he was. Poor brave Child ! Who being worthy 
 never to have died, doeft not To much as live in 
 Hiftory ! Indeed I did not think till then, that Mars 
 had his Abortives too, dying before their time, 
 and before they were named. Then they (hewed 
 me AttiWs Helmet, with the Head-piece of his 
 Horfe. A Cannon (hooting feven Shots at once, as 
 if Death, with his fingle Dart, went too flowly to 
 work. Another Cannon (hooting threefcore Shots 
 in ten Barrels. A Halbert with a Barrel within 
 it, Ihooting fourteen Shots. Another Halbert (hoot- 
 ing feven Shots. A Cannon of Iron carrying two 
 
 Miles, and curioufly wrought into Flowers with 
 the points of Chizels. The Chollar of Iron of the 
 Taduan Tyrant ( as they call Him here ) Carara . 
 The little Iron Crofs- bow of the fame Tyrant* 
 with which he is faid to have (hot Needies a Span 
 long, and killed many Men privately, who knew 
 not how, or by whom they were hurt.Then the De- 
 vils Organs, or a Trunk of Leather, with ten Piftol 
 Barrels in it, of a Foot and half long *, and fo 
 difpofed in order like Organ-pipes, that upon the 
 opening of the Lock of this Trunk, all thefe Bar- 
 rels being charged with (everal Bullets, (hould let 
 fly at once ; and fo fcattering wide, kill all thofe 
 that (hould be in the Room. This Trunk was con- 
 triv’d by a revengeful Man, who having a Mind 
 to be revenged both of his Enemy, and of his Ene- 
 mies Friends at once, fent him this Trunk by an 
 unknown Bearer (asa prefent from a Friend) while 
 he treated his Friends at dinner. The holes through 
 the (ides of it, made by the Bullets, (hew the de- 
 vilifh efFed of this Trunk, and how well it deferves 
 the name of the Devils Organ. The Box of Bor - 
 targoes here is juft fuch another Invention. A Pi- 
 
246 a 5Joya0C tf)]Ollg& Italy* BsrlJX, 
 
 ftol in a Pocket-Boqk here is as bad as the others § 
 which being Chargd and let off, would prefent- ; 
 ly read your Doom. Swords and Daggers, with 
 Piftol and little Gun Barrels running along their 
 Blades, which being held drawn with the Broads 
 fide to a Man, appear to be only plain Swords and 
 Daggers, and yfct they difcharge thrufts not to be 
 parried by any fencing Guard* 1 faw alfoherea 
 fine Tabernacle of Chrifta! : A burning Lamp 
 found in Amenors Tomb in Padua. A Burning- 
 Glafs, which burneth half a Mile off : A rare A~ 
 dam and Eve , with the Serpent and the Tree, all 
 cut out of one piece of Wood by the rare hand 
 of Alberto Dare o : And in fine, the Picture of King 
 James of England, the only Pifture of any for 
 reign Prince that I faw there. 
 
 The Piaz* Having thus feen this Cabinet of Mars , we went 
 
 **ofst. out of the Pallace into the Piazza of St. Mark, 
 upon which both the afprefaid Church of St- 
 Marti, and the Doge’s Pallace look. This is one of 
 the noblelt Piazzas that a Man can fee in any 
 Town. It runs from the Sea-fide, up along the Pal- 
 lace, to the Church of St. Mark, and from thence 
 turning on the left hand, it fpreads itfelf into a 
 more large and longer open place, moft Beautiful 
 to behold ; for the whole Piazza, even from the 
 Sea- fide to the farther end, is built upon Arches, 
 and Marble Pillars and raifed up with beautiful 
 Lodgings, fit to lodg all the Proctor atort of St .Mark$ 
 all the rich foreign Merchants; a world of perfons 
 of condition ; the Mint, and the famous Library Jn 
 that part of the Piazza which lies under the Pa!r 
 lace the Nobili Fenetiani walk together,twice a day, 
 to confer about bufinefs of State.This meeting here 
 of the i^cbkmen is called the Broglio. And in the 
 
part II. a dtopage t&lOUgf) Italy . 
 
 emj of it,clofe by the Sea-fide,ftand two great Pil- 
 lars of rich Marble, the one bearing upon it the I- 
 mage of St. Theodora, the other the Lyon of St. 
 Mar\ 5 thefe two Saints, St. Mark and St Theodo- 
 ra, being the two Patrons of this City. Thefe two 
 Pillars were erected here by a Lombard, who requi- 
 red no other recompence for his Pains, than that 
 it may be Lawful for Dice-players to play at Dice 
 between thefe two Pillars, without being punilhed 
 or molelted •, nay, though they played falfe play : 
 Here alfo between thefe two Pillars they execute ^ 
 Malefaftors, to (hew that they deferve not the 
 Prote&ion of thofe two Patrons, who break the 
 Orders of that Town which is under the Prote- 
 <5tion. It’s pity that the Lombard himfelf was not 
 whipp’d here, at leafl,for making himfelf the Pro- 
 testor of idle Rogues there, where the Saints are 
 Patrons of honeft Men. Over againft the Pall ace 
 Hands the Mint , in a place called La Zeccha , and 
 from hence the Gold coined here is called Z eccbi- 
 tto a piece of Gold worth fome (even Shillings and 
 Sixpence of our Money. Hard by it Hands the Li- 
 brary, famous both for the quality and quantity 
 of the Books that are in h.Petrarch(once Canon of 
 the Church of Padua) gave his Library to it ; and 
 Beffarion a Greek Cardinal of great Learning and 
 Worth, gave as many great Manufcripts unto it, 
 as coH him thirty Thoufand Crowns, and yet by 
 this Legacy, Beffarion was but even with the Fe- 
 nttxansy who honoured him in fuch a particular 
 manner, as to fend out, the Bucentauro it felf to 
 bring him into Venice, being fent thither Legat by 
 the Pope. 
 
 8 . Going from hence into the other part of the 
 Biazza, which Hands before the Church, I efpied 
 
 upon 
 
a aopage t&OUgft Italy. Part II. 
 
 upon the very out corner of the Wall of the 
 Church ( as you come out of the PallaceJ four Por- 
 phiry Statues of four Merchants embracing one 
 another. Having enquired what thofe Statues were 
 fet for there, I was told by a grave old Gentlaman 
 of Penice-, that thofe whom thefe Statues reprefent, 
 were four Merchants and Strangers, who brought 
 hither moft of the Jewels mentioned above in the 
 Treafury : And that afterwards poifoningone an- 
 other out of Covetoufnefs, left this State heir of 
 all. Juft before the Church ftand three tall Malls of 
 Ships, upon curioufly wrought Pedeftals of Brafs, & 
 each Mail bearing, upon great days, a ftately Flag,& 
 Streamers. Thefe three Mails lignify the three no- 
 bleft parts of the Penmans Dominions, to wit, the 
 Kingdoms of Cyfrus , and of Candy, and the ftate of 
 Venice. In this Piazza I found always a world of 
 Strangers perpetually walking and talking of Bar- 
 gains and Traffick, as Greeks, Armenians, Albani- 
 ans, Slavonians , Polonians , jews, and even Turks 
 themfelves ; all in their feveral Habits, but all 
 confpiring in this one thing, to fell dear, and buy 
 cheap. Here alfo they have every night in Sum- 
 mer, a world of Montebanks , Ciarlatani, and fuch 
 ftuff, who, together with their druggs and reme- 
 dies, ltrive to pleafc the People with their little 
 Comedies, Popet- plays. Songs, Mufick, Stories, 
 and fuch like Buffonery. It’s ftrange to fee how 
 they find daily, either new fooling or new Fools, 
 not only to hear them,§but even they throw them 
 Money too for fuch poor contentments.In this Pi- 
 azza alfo ftands the Campanile, or high Steeple 
 of Penice, diftant fome fifty Paces from the Church 
 of St. Mark It’s built forty Foot fquare on all 
 Sides, and two Hundred and thirty fix high. The 
 
 top 
 
part II. a Oopage tteougl) Italy. 249 
 
 top of it is covered with gilt Tiles, which, in a Sun- The high 
 fhine day, appear glorioufly afar off. The Foun- steefU. 
 dation of it is almoft as deep underground^ the 
 top of it is high above ground ^ a wonder, if you 
 confider that it Hands in Venice. From the top of 
 this Camf anile we had a perfect view of Venice un- 
 der us, and of all its neighbour inglflands, Forts, Seas, 
 and Towns about it*, as alfo of theoutfideof St. 
 
 Marks Church, its Frontifpiece, its Cupolas, and 
 the four Horfes of Brafs gilt, which Hand over the 
 Frontifpiece. Thefe Horfes came out of the Shop, 
 not out of the Stable of Lififfw a famous Statu- 
 ary in Greece , and. were given to Nero by Tir aba- 
 tes, King of Armenia. They were carried by Con- 
 fiantine the Great from 'Rome to Conft antinople } and 
 from thence they were tranfported hither. In fine, 
 from the top of this Steeple we faw the compafs of 
 the great Arfenal of Venice, which looked like a 
 little Town in our Sight. Indeed feme make it 
 three Miles about ; but I cannot allow it fomuch. 
 
 The fight of this Magazin of War afar off, made 
 us haften down from the Steeple to go fee it nearer 
 hand. 
 
 9. Taking therefore a Gondola , we went to the The Ar ^ m 
 Arfenal, where, after the ordinary formalities of rta \ m 
 leaving our Swords at the Door, and paying the 
 Porters Fees, we were admitted, and led through 
 this great Shop of Mars. It’s fo well feated near 
 the Sea-fide, and fo well built, that it might ferve 
 the Venetian Senators for a CaHle, in time of d an- 
 ger : And in it there is a Well of frefh Water, not 
 to be poifoned, becaufe of the two pieces of V- 
 nicorns Horn fet fall in the bottom of it. I confefs 
 I never faw any where fuch Oeconomy as is here 
 obferv’d. Fifteen Hundred Men are daily employ- 
 
3 50 9 aiopage tf)?OUgf) Italy. Part JI. 
 
 ed here, and duly paid at the Weeks end, accord- 
 ing to their feveral Employments and Works.The 
 Expences of thefe Workmen amount to a Thou- 
 fand Ducats every day in the Year: So that they 
 make account that they may fpend in this Arfenai 
 four Hundred and thirty Thoufand Crowns a 
 Year : Enough almoft to maintain a pretty Ar- 
 my conftantly. Every Workman here hath Wine 
 twice a day, ahd that very good too, but that it 
 is a little mingled with Water. We were led 
 through all the vaft Rooms of this Magazdn^ 
 Rooms like vaft Churches : In one of them I law 
 nothing but great Oars for Gallies, fevenMen 
 going to one Oar. In another, nothing but vaft 
 Sterns. In another, nothing but vaft Nails for Gal- 
 lies and Ships. In another, they were making no- 
 thing but Salt-peeter for Gunpowder. In another, 
 they were calling great Cannons, Morter-pieces, 
 and Chambers. In another, they had nothing but 
 a pair of vaft Scales to weigh Cannons with. In 
 another, Mafts for Gallies and Ships, of a prodi- 
 gious greatnefs and length ; and yet of fuch a rare 
 Timber, that one fillipping up one end of them, 
 you hear it eafily at the other end, by applying 
 your Ear to it. Some of thefe Mafts are worth 
 fourfeore Pounds. In other vaft Rooms I faw (tore 
 of Cannons of all fizes, both for Ships and Gal- 
 lies \ where alfo I faw fome Turkijh Cannons with 
 words upon them in th sTurkith Language. There 
 I faw alfo one Cannon (hooting three Shots at once: 
 Another five * one great Cannon found buried in 
 Candy full of Gold Medals: The great Cannons 
 call here while Henry the III, of France dined in 
 this Arfenai. They had heretofore a prodi- 
 gious quantity of Cannons here, but now thefe 
 
 Rooms 
 
Part II. 9 fiJopge t&IOUgl) Italy. 351 
 
 Rooms are much emptied, by reafon of this War 
 with the Turks • In other great Rooms I faw huge 
 heaps of Cannon-Bullets of all fixes, with fome En- 
 ligns won over the Turks. Then mounting up into 
 the Chambers above, I faw in two vaft Rooms, 
 
 Arms for fifty Thoufand Men. In another. Arms 
 for twelve Gallies: In another, Arms for fifty 
 Gallies. Here alfo I faw the fuit of Armor of 
 Scanderbeg : That of th z Doge Zani , the Lan- 
 tern of Don John of Auftrias Ship in the Battle 
 of Lepanto: The Lantern of a Turkijh Gaily : 
 
 The Armor of Benjamante Theopoli, and his com- 
 plices, with one Arm only: Some Arms taken 
 from the Turks in the Battle of Lepanto .* Other 
 Arms taken from the G cnutfi 5 a great Crofs-Bow 
 Ihooting vaft Arrows of Iron, above five quarters 
 long :An Invention of great ufe, before Guns were 
 found out. A Cannon-Bullet with four long Irons, 
 like the tops of Halberts ; which (hut up clofe into 
 it when they put it into the Cannon, but open a- 
 gain of themfelves as foon as the Bullet is out of 
 the Cannons Mouth : And fo fpreading into four 
 parts, cut all they meet with ftrange Fury:, a dan- 
 gerous invention in Sea Battles, to fpoil Cordage 
 and Tackling. Here alfo they (hew us the Defcrip- 
 tion of the Town and Fort of CHJfa, and ho w it 
 was taken by the Venetians fome twenty years a-, 
 go. Then defending from thence, we went to fee 
 the places where they make new Gallies, and 
 mend old ones. There l found a vail fquare Court 
 three Hundred Paces broad in every fquare, and 
 full of vaft Penthoufes, capable of holdingin them, 
 
 Gallies of fifty Paces long a piece. In the midft 
 of this Court is a vaft fquare pond of Water, let 
 infrora the Sea, where the new Gallies are tryed \ 
 
 Qq and 
 
2 aojovnget^ougljltaly. Part IL 
 
 and the old ones are let into the Arfenal to be 
 mended and rigged anew. Here I faw a world of 
 Galleys, and a world of Men working about them 
 moll bufily. There were heretofore divers of thefe 
 great Courts full of Gallies, but now they are 
 much exhaufted \ the Gallies being abroad in 
 War. Hence it is obferved that this Arfenal, be- 
 fore thefe Wars, could arm two Hundred Gallies, 
 and two hundred Thoufand Men. Here it was that 
 they made a Gaily, and fet her out at Sea while 
 Henry the III dined here in the Arfenal*, which 
 made that King fay then, that he would give three 
 of the bell Towns in France (except his Parliament 
 Towns) for fuchan Arfenal. Indeed the Arfenals 
 of Paris , Genua , Zurich^ Naples , and Geneva , feem- 
 ed to me to be little Gunfmiths Shops in compa- 
 rifon of this. They were then making here two 
 new G alleajfes (when I was laft there ) of vail bulk 
 and Expences. In fine, I faw here the old Bucen - 
 toro \ and prefently after the new Bucentoro. This 
 laft is the Galley of State, of the Doge, when he go- 
 eth forth upon the Afcenfion-day, accompanied 
 with the Senate, toefpoufe the Sea as they call it 
 here. This is a noble Galley, all gilt without, and 
 wainfcotted round about the Deck, with gilt Seats. 
 There runs a Partition of Wood quite along the 
 Deck of the Galley, with Seats on bothfides, and 
 with a low open roof of Wood to let in Air, and 
 yet keep off the Sun *, and all this is gilt and paint- 
 ed, and capable of five Hundred Senators, who in 
 their fear let Robes wait upon the Doge that Day. 
 The Doge fits in the Puppejnz Chair of State with 
 the Popes Nuncio on one hand of him, and the Pa- 
 triarch of Venice on the other, and a place for Mu- 
 fic behind them. The Slaves are all under Hatches, 
 
 and 
 
Part II. 9 OiopffC tfpttgf) Italy. a 5 3 
 and not feen at all;but their Oars, (twenty on each 
 fide)move all at once, like great Wings, which make 
 the Bucentoro move moft Majeftically. And this is 
 all that I can remember in this Arfenal, except the 
 Cellar of Wine, and the great Rooms, ( as I came 
 out) where Women only are employed in mending 
 old Sails ; and Men ( a part ) in making great 
 Cables : And indeed thofe vafl Anchors which lye 
 near the wooden Bridge here at the entrance, 
 ftand in need of Cables of the greateft fize. 
 
 10. I happened to beat Venice thrice, at the The Jjfw 
 great Sea Trumph, or Feaftof the Afcenfion,^* 
 which was performed thus. About our eight in the 
 Morning, the Senators in their Scarlet Robes meet 
 at the Doge 3 s Pallace 5 and there taking him up, 
 they walk with him proceflionally unto the Shoar, 
 where the Bucentoro lies waiting them *, the Popes 
 Nuncio being upon his right Hand, and the Patri- 
 arch of Venice on his left Hand. Then afcending 
 into the Bucentoro , by a handforne Bridge thrown 
 out to fhoar, the Doge takes his place, and the Se- 
 nators fit round about the Galley as they can, to the 
 number of two or three Hundred. The Senate be- 
 ing placed, the Anchor is weighed, and the Slaves 
 being warned by the Captains Whittle, and the 
 Sound of Trumpets, begin to (trike all at once with 
 their Oars, and to make the Bucentoro march as 
 gravely upon the Water, as if (he al(o went upon 
 Cioppini, Thus they fleet for two Miles upon the 
 Laguna , while the Mufic plays, and fings Epithala - 
 miums ail the way long, and makes Neptune jea- 
 lous to hear Hymen called up in his Dominions. 
 
 Round about the Bucentoro flock a world of Biot - 
 tas y and Gondola^Sy richly covered over head with 
 fumptuous Canopies of Silk, and rich Stuffs, and 
 Q, q 2 rowed 
 
2?4 
 
 3 Oopage t()£0Ug& Italy, Part II. 
 rowed by Water men in rich Liveries, as well as the 
 Trumpeters. Thus foreign Embaffadors, divers 
 Noblemen of the Country, and Strangers of Con- 
 dition wait upon the D^e’s Galley all the way a- 
 long, both coming and going. At laft the Doge be- 
 ing arrived at the appointed place, throws a Ring 
 into the Sea, without any other ceremony, than by 
 faying: Defponfamiis te^Marejn fignum perpetui Do- 
 iniriri. We efpoufe thee , O Seafrn Tefiimony of our 
 perpetual Dominion over thee : And fo returns to the 
 Church of St. Nicolai in Lio ( an Ifland hard by ) 
 where he affifts at high Mafs with the Senate.This 
 done, he returns home again in the fame State j 
 and invites thole that accompanied him in his Gal- 
 ley, to Dinner in his Pallace : The preparatives of 
 which dinner we favv before th zDoge wasgot home. 
 This Ceremony of marrying the Sea, as they call 
 it, is ancient 5 and performed yearly in memory 
 of the grant of Pope Alexander the III. who being 
 reilored by th Venetians unto his Seat again, grant- 
 ed them Power over the Adriatic Sea, as a Man 
 hath power over his Wife;and th Venetians to keep 
 this PoQeffion, make every Year this watery Ca - 
 vale at a. I confefs, the fight is (lately, and a Poet 
 would prefently conceive that Neptune himfelf 
 were going to be married to fome Ntreide . 
 
 1 1 . Having feen this Ceremony in the Morning, 
 c . we wcnt a ft er Dinner to fee the Evening Corfo at 
 MMwino. Marano^ where we faw thofe fine Gondolas and Pt- 
 attas , which he had feen waiting upon the Doge 
 in the Morning, now rowing in State up and down 
 the great Canale of Murano , to the found of Trum- 
 pets^ and with all the force of the brawny Water- 
 men that row them. Sometimes meeting too thick 
 in the Arches of the wooden Bridge here , they 
 
 crack 
 
Part ir, & fllopage tfj? 0 Ug;() Italy, 1 5 5 
 
 crack one anothers Gondolas , break one anothers 
 Oars, overturn their Boatmen, and are ftopt for 
 an hour together without being able to untangle. 
 Embaffadors themfelves of Foreign Princes ap- 
 pear in Corfo this Evening, with all their bravery 
 (five or fix Gondolas all in one Livery, as well as 
 all the Gallants and Gentry of Venice^ who ap- 
 pear here this Evening at Corfo. 
 
 12. The next Morning no fooner appeared, but Tht fair. 
 new fights appeared alfo,and now upon land ; and 
 
 the Scene was St. Mark's place, where the Fair 
 opening this day, and lading for ten days, drew 
 all the Gallants of Venice to come, and behold all 
 the Gallantry and Riches that either Domettic or 
 Foreign Merchants could fet forth to fail. But the 
 mod part of the young Ladies that came to fee 
 the Fair, came in an odd drefs, with a falfe Nofe, 
 and a little beard of black Wool, difguifing their 
 Mouth and Note: So that they could fee all the 
 Fair, and be known to no body. Thus they go 
 often to Marriages, and other Aflemblies, when 
 they have no mind to be known. 
 
 13. Having thus feen thefe forefaid fights, we George, 
 went on with vifiting the other things in the 
 Town, and one day we went to the Ifland of St. 
 
 George Major , where we faw a (lately Monastery, 
 
 Church, Cloifler and Garden, which take up this 
 whole Ifland. The Church is one of the bell in 
 Venice, and built by Palladio , the famous Archi- 
 
 ted. In the Church I was fhewn the great filver 
 Lamp, as great as two Men could carry. In a Pil- 
 lar of Marble ftanding over a fide Altar, I was 
 fnewn the Pidure of a Crucifix, which was dif- 
 covered, at the polifhing of thisftone, to have 
 been naturally in the Vein of the. Marble. In the 
 CLq 3 Refedory, 
 
256 S damage t&Ctlgf) Italy. Part II. 
 
 Refe£tory,I faw an admirable Pi&ure of the Sup- 
 per of Cana in Galilee , made by Guido Rheni . 
 I vifited it often, and could never fatiate my Eyes 
 with fuch a rare Piece. It takes up the whole end 
 of the great Refe&ory. 
 
 TkePaUace 14. From thence we rowed to the Pallace of 
 9 f Si i nore Procurator Nani, which Hands in an Ifland be- 
 yond St. Georges. The Pallace is richly furnilhed 
 with the true Pi&ures of many modern Princes 
 and Ladies of France , England and Germany . This 
 Pallace hath one ftrange thing belonging to it , 
 beyond the Pallaces of Venice: To wit, a neat Gar- 
 den, for Gardens in Venice are as wonderful things 
 as Coaches : And I cannot remember, that look- 
 ing upon the Whole City, from top of the high 
 Steeple, 1 faw two places where there were any 
 green Trees. But the belt thing that I faw here, 
 was the Procurator Nani himfelf,the greateft Or- 
 nament of the Venetian Senate, whofe learned Pen 
 hath already given us an excellent Hiltory of Ve- 
 nice . 
 
 15. From hence we walked to the Capucins Con- 
 
 ** Um vent > ls the fame Bland, and Church 
 
 neatly built, and far above the rate of Capucins 
 but it was a vow of the Senate in time of the 
 Plague 5 and they regarded more, in building it, 
 their own Honor than the Capucins fimplicity . 
 
 1 6. From hence, returning again towards the 
 Town, we fleered our Gondola to the Church of 
 
 Madonna Madonna di Salute a new round Church, vowed 
 di salute, by the State in another plague Time, and likely 
 to be one of the fineft Churches in Venice , when 
 it (hall be ended. In the Sacrifty I faw a rare Pi- 
 cture of a Feaft, by Tintoret$ and others in the 
 roof, by Titian . 
 
 17. From 
 
Part It 9(Llopap tljpigf) Italy. a<>7 
 
 17. From hence we went to the Church of the L* Car#** 
 Canon Regulars, called La Carita , in whofe Mo- 
 naftery Pope Alexander the III. lay hid privately 
 
 like a poor Chaplain of this Church, unknown to 
 the very Fathers of this place : Til! at laft he was 
 difcovered by a devout Pilgrim, who having fben 
 him often in Rome y and hearing him fay M a fs 
 here, difcovered him to the Senate, and fo he was 
 both acknowledged by the Senate, and defended 
 by them, as we faid above. Over the entrance of 
 the Quire, is feen the Picture of Alexander the 
 III. receiving the Emperor Frederic to the killing 
 of his Feet, by the means of the Doge of Fmce^ 
 who Hands by : Here’s alfo a good Pitture of our 
 Saviour’s railing up Lazarus again to Life : Its of 
 the hand of BaJJdn . 
 
 18. Another time I went to the Dominicans 
 Church, called St. Qiovanne & Paulo , where I ™™j e 0 & 
 found, among the Tomb-Hones, that of the Lord au 
 Henry Aubigni{ fecond Brother to the Duke of Le- 
 nox and Richmond) who died here in his Travels. 
 
 Before the dobr of this Church Hands the Eque- 
 
 ftris Statue in Brafs guilt, of Bartolomeo Coleono 
 Bargamenfe , a great Commander, to whom ( as 
 the words bear \ ob militare imperinm optime gefium ) 
 the Senate decreed this Statue to be eredted. The 
 Tabernacle and Altar are veryitately. TheChap- 
 pel of St. Hiacinth , and the miracles of this Sair t 
 are of the hand of Bajfan and Palmarino. T he Mar- 
 tyrdom of St. John and Paul is a Maflerpiece ofthe 
 hand of Titian . The Convent alio of St.John 
 and Paul is one of the moH Hately ones in Laly . 
 
 The Refectory is famous for painting. 
 
 1 9. The Church of St ,Salvatore is a fair Church, s.Salvato • 
 and well adorned with neat Tomes of divers re - 
 
 Qq 4 Doges 
 
258 8 filopngc tbiouglj Italy, Part II. 
 
 Doga and great Perfons.Upon the back of the high 
 Altar is feen a Picture of the Transfiguration, of 
 the hand of Titian. Upon an Altar on the right 
 hand of the Wall, is a Picture of the Annuncia- 
 tion, under which Titian wrote thefe Words, 77 - 
 tianus, fecit, fecit , to affure Men by this double af- 
 . firmative,thatit was a good piece, worth his twice 
 owning. There’s another Picture of the laft Sup- 
 per, made by Titian's Mailer. Upon the Epiftlc 
 fide of the high Altar (lands a little Chappel, o- 
 ver whofe Altar is the Tomb of St .Theodoras with 
 his Body in it. He is one of the Patrons of this 
 Town. 
 
 Sr chrjfi- 20. In the Church of St. Chryfoftom , I faw,up- 
 fi 9 m 6 % on a fide Altar, on the left Hand, the Statues in 
 
 ftone of our Saviour and his twelve Apofties, neat- 
 ly cut, by Tullius Lombardos , whofe rare Statues 
 adorn alfo St. Antonie's Tomb at Padua . His Sta- 
 tues are eafily known by the neat Hands. 
 
 21. In the Church of the j4pofioli I faw a rare 
 Picture of St. Lacy , but now fcmewhat old. 
 
 22 In the Church of the Jefuits, I faw the 
 Tomb of St. Barbara , Virgin and Martyr. 
 
 The Dow 23. In the Domo (the Cathedral of Venice, but 
 {landing much out of the way) I faw little confi- 
 derable, but the Tomb of St % Laarentim Juftinia - 
 mu, an Holy Man, a great Preacher, and the firft 
 Patriarch of Fenice : The Patriarchal feat of Gra - 
 do, being removed hither in his Time. 
 
 Stjacomo. 2 4» I few alfo the Church of St. Jacorn , the 
 firft Church that was built in Feme, and built 
 twelve Hundred years ago, in the Infancy of Fe- 
 nice, as an old Infcription here told me. Here are 
 feme good Pi&ures 0 i Lanfrancas and * Mracns 77 - 
 tidiiits, old Titian's Nephew and Scholar. 
 
 25. And 
 
part II. 3 (Hopage tfpugf) Italy. 259 
 
 25 . And being in Fence upon S t, Georges day The Gredt 
 ( the 2$d. of April ) we went to the Creek Church, Church ' 
 
 I mean to the Gree^Schifmaticks Church, which is 
 dedicated to God, in honour of Sr. George, and 
 therefore this day was one of their greateftfolemn- 
 nities. Their Ceremonies and Service differed lit- 
 tle from the Catholick Greeks : And if any one de- 
 fire to know their Tenents, and how near they 
 come to the Roman Catholicks, let him read a Book, 
 in a thin Folio , Printed at Wittemberg , , Anno . i ^84. 
 under ti s Title, Atta & fcripta Theologomm Wit- 
 tembergenfium & HieremU Patriarch a. 
 
 26 . We went after dinner one Saturday , to fee The Jem 
 the Jews Synagogue. Among other things I heard Synagogue. 
 here a Rabbin make a Homily to his Flock. He 
 looked like a French Minifter, or Puritanical Le- 
 cturer, in a Ihort Cloak and Hat. The Snafling 
 through the Nofe, made all the edification that 
 
 I faw in it : It was in Italian , but the coldeft dif- 
 courfe that ever I heard in any Language. Indeed 
 it was their Sabbath day 5 and they eat no other 
 meat that day, but cold meat. 
 
 27 . Another day we went to Murano again, to The G /^ r 
 fee the Glafs-houfes which furnifh almoft all houfes at 
 rope with drinking Glades, and all our Ladies Ca- Mur am. 
 binets with Loking-glafTes. They utter here forth 
 
 two hundred Thoufand Crowns worth a year of 
 this brittle Ware; and they feem to have taken 
 meafure of every Nations Belly and Humour, to 
 fit them with Drinking-glades accordingly : For 
 the High Dutch they have high Glaifes called 
 Flutes, a full yard long; which a Man cannot drink 
 up alone, except his Man, or fome other, hold up 
 the foot of thefemore than two handedGlaffes.For 
 the Englifi that love Toafts with their Drink, they 
 
z6o 9 Oopage tljiouglj Italy. Part II, 
 
 have curions Tankards of thick Chryftal giafs 
 juft like our Silver Tankards. For the Italians 
 that love to drink leifurely, they have Glafles 
 that are almoft as large and flat as Silver Plates, 
 and almoft as uneafie to drink out of. And fo for 
 other Nations. In one Shop they were making a 
 fet of Glafles for the Emperor, of five Crowns e- 
 very Giafs: There were Drinking-glafles with 
 high Covers made like fpread Eagles, and finely 
 iilt. Sometimes to Ihew their art, they make here 
 pretty things. One made a Ship in Giafs, with all 
 her Tacklings,Guns, Mails, Sails and Streamers. 
 Another made an Organ in Giafs three Cubits 
 high, fojuftly contrived, that by blowing into it, 
 and touching the Hops, it founded mufically. A 
 third made a perfect Caftle, with all its fortifica- 
 tions, Ramparts, Cannons, Centry-houfes and 
 Gates.Here alfo I faw them make thofe vail Look- 
 ing-glafles,whofe brittlenefs Iheweth Ladies them- 
 felves, more than their reflection doth. Infineon 
 Mur mo , you fee the F allace of Signor Camillo 
 Trevifano , with the rare Garden and Fountains 
 a la Romana. 
 
 28. After this we went up and down the Town 
 7 he Shops, o fy e ntce^ fbmetimes afoot, to fee better the Shops 
 as thofe of Silks, Cloths of Gold, of Books,and 
 the Ai)otfeecaries Shops, where I faw them make 
 their famous Treacle : Sometimes in a Gondola , to 
 view over and over again, the Canale Grande , 
 and the Brave Pallaccs which hem it in on both 
 fides : Sometimes entring into the bed of thofe Pal- 
 laces, to fee their rich furniture and contrivances. 
 The bed are, of Jufiiniani , Mocenigo , Grimani , 
 The Palla - Friuli , Contarim , Fofcoli , Loredano , Gaffoni and 
 *es. Cornaro . 
 
 29. The 
 
part II. a SJopage tf)?OUg6 Italy. 261 
 
 29. Then I enquired what learned Men had The learned 
 adorned Venice, and I found thefe two to have been 
 
 chief, Laurentius Juftinianus, Hermolaus Barhams, 
 
 Petrus Benthos, Aloyfiut, Lippomams,P aulus Paruta, 
 
 Baptifia Egnatius, Ludovicus Dolce, Paulas Mann- 
 tius, with divers others. I faw fome years ago the 
 noble and ingenious Loredano , whofe witty Books 
 make him famous over all the Academies of It a. 
 ly and Europe. As alfo the Procurators Nani, whole 
 excellent Hiftory hath got him immortal fame. 
 
 30. Here’s an Academy of wits, called Incogniti, rhe Academ 
 and for their Arms,they have the river Nilas with my of wits. 
 this this motto, Incognito , & pur noto •, unknown, and 
 
 yet famous. 
 
 He that defires to know the Hiftory of Venice, 
 let him read Andrea Morafini, Paolo, Partua , Sa- u * *' 
 hellico, Berdino Tomapno, Corido and Nani. 
 
 Having thus feen all Venice, over and over a- 
 gain, in a months ftay there,! was moft willing to 
 leave it ; having found it true of Venice, what So - 
 orates faid of Athens , that it was melior meretrix , Venice! 
 quamVxor', a fine Town for a fortnight 3 butnoc ; 
 to dwell in always •, and this by reafon of fome 
 ftinking Channel, bad Cellars for Wine 3 worfe 
 Water, and the moift Air of the Sea, not the 
 moft wholefome fcarcity of Earth, even to bury 
 their Dead in 5 and little Fewel for firing. So that 
 finding the four Elements wanting here in their 
 purity I was willing to leave thefe polifhed Hol- 
 landers, and return to Padua . 
 
 Padua is the fecond Town to the Venetian State, p a dua, 
 though once the Mother of Venice. Its old enough 
 to be Mother of Rome it felf; having been built by 
 Antenor, whofe Tomb is yet feen here. The Town 
 is very great, and fuller of good Houles, than of 
 
 Men 
 
262 a Sopace tJj?Ottg;f) Italy. Part II. 
 
 Men of condition ; Tyranny and too frequent. 
 Murdershaving much depopulated it* in point of 
 Nobility. It Hands in the Marco, Trevigiana . The 
 Walls about it are ftrong, and back’d up with fine 
 Raraparts.lt lies near the Eugenian Hills, in a fer- 
 tile foyl, and plain, which makes the Proverb fay, 
 Bologna lagrajfa,tna Padua la pajfy. Its famous for 
 the ftudy of Phyfick, as many of our thrice worthy 
 Phyfitians in England can teftify, The chief things 
 I obferved in it are thefe. 
 
 1. Antenor* s Tomb with Gotic Letters upon it : 
 Mtemrs Which makes me doubt whether thisTpmb be 
 Tomb, fo antient as they make it. 
 
 2. The publick Schools called here II Bue , or 
 Oxe : What if the firft Readers here came from 
 Oxford as they did to the llniverlity of Pavia ? 
 
 3 . The Phyfick Garden, to acquaint the Student 
 in Phyfick, with the nature of Simples. 
 
 4. The Church of St. Antony of Padua, whofe 
 st, Antony's Body lies in the open Chappel on the left hand 5 
 Tomb. an d this Chappel is adorned with curious figures 
 
 of white Marble, reprefenting the chief actions of 
 this Saints life. Under the Altar repofeth his Bo- 
 dy, and before it hang fome twenty feven great 
 Lamps of Silver, or Silver gilt. Over againft this 
 Chappel, Hands juft fuch another open Chappel, 
 called the Chappel of San Felice, which is rarely 
 painted by famous Gietto, who made the Campa- 
 nile of Florence , In a fide Chappel on ^he right 
 hand, is the Tomb of brave GattaMela, whofe 
 true name was Erafmo di Narni, of whom more 
 by and by. The Tomb of Alexander Contarem 
 General of the Venetians, and it is one of the belt 
 cut Tombs I have feen : Its fattened to a fide Pil- 
 lar.. The Quire of this Church is all of inlaid Wood, 
 
 In 
 
Part II. SI Sopage t&10ttgf) Italy. 263 
 
 la the Cloifter of the Convent are feen many 
 Tombs of learned Men : And in that quarter of 
 the Cloifter, which lies upon the Church, I found 
 written upon a black Marble ftone, thefe words : 
 
 Interior a Thorns Howardi C omit is Arondelia ; The 
 Bowels of the Earl of Arundel , late Lord Marfhal 
 of England. No wonder if his Bowels be enchas- 
 ed in Marble, after his death, who in his life time, 
 loved Marbles con todas fus entranias , with his 
 whole Bowels. His Marmora Arondeliana, commen- 
 ted upon by learned Mr. Selden , Ihew this Suffici- 
 ently. This great Man died here in Padua , and yet 
 in a manner at home 5 becaufe he had made Ita- 
 ly familiar to him while he lived at home. 
 
 5. Going out of this Church, I faw the Equi- 
 flristt , atue of Gatta Mela, the Venetians General, 
 whofe Tomb I faw even now in the Church. He 
 was nicknamed Gatta, becaufe of his watchful- 
 nefs in carrying bufinefs. 
 
 6 . The Church of St. Jufiina , is one of the fi- St.jujhnar 
 neft Churches of Italy \ and no wonder, feeing ckurchand 
 its Architect was Palladio . Under the High Alar MQn ^ er ^ 
 of this Church, lies buried the Body, of St . Juftina. 
 
 The fine Cupolas ; the curious Pavement of red 
 and black Marble ; the rich High Altar,all of Pi- 
 etre comejfe *, the curious Seats, in the Quire, with 
 the Hiftoriesof the old and new Teftament cut in 
 Wood in them } the fine Pidture at the end of the 
 Quire, over the Abbat’s Seat, containing the Mar~ 
 ty rdom of St. Juftina , by the hand of Paolo Plerone- 
 ft \ the Tomb of St. Luk$ the Evangelift } and that 
 of St. Matthias ; the Well, full of Relics 5 and the 
 Tomb of St. Prof dochimus St. Peter’s Difciple, and 
 Rift Bifhop of Padua , do ail make this Church ve- 
 rvconfiderable. Before this Church and Monafte- 
 
 ry 
 

 a 64 
 
 The great 
 H*Um 
 
 3 (Hopiige tflJOttglj Italy. fart It. 
 ry lies the Campo Same, and a fair field, where they 
 keep Monthly a Merc at o franco, and where the 
 Evening Corfo is kept, by Ladies and Noblemen in 
 their Coaches in Summer. 
 
 The Monaftry here is one of the faireft in Ita- 
 ly, and the fecond of that Order. The painted 
 Cloifter, the neat Library, and thePifture of St. 
 Juftina in the Abbat’s Chamber, made by Paolo 
 Feronefe , are all worth your Curiolity. The Domo 
 is not 16 well built as it is endowed with rich Pre- 
 bendaries. hn hundred Thoufand Crowns a year go 
 to the raaintainance of an Hundred Clergy-Men, 
 and Officers belonging to it. The Prebends are 
 twenty feven, and ordinarily Gentlemen. # 
 
 8. The Pallaceof the Capitano Grande isftately 
 without : Here ftandsthe curious Library. 
 
 9. The great Hall called here, 11 Palagio di 
 Ragione, is a vaft Room 180 paces long, and for- 
 ty broad, without Pillars: It hath four great doors 
 to it, and over every door the ftatue of a learned 
 Paduan. This Hall is alfo painted in the roof, with 
 Aftronomical figures, reprefenting the influence 
 of the Superior Bodies over the Inferior. At one 
 end of it you fee a round Stone, with thefe words 
 written about it ,Lapis opprobrii , the ftone of difgrace $ 
 upon which whofoever will fit publickly, and de- 
 clare himfelf not to be Solvendo , cannot be clapt 
 tip in Prifon for Debt. At the other end of this 
 Hall ftands Livys Head in white Marble, and out 
 of a little Back-door there, joyningtothe Wall 
 of this Hall, ftands Livys Bufio in Stone with this 
 Epitaph under it in old Gothic^ Letters \Ojfa Titi 
 Livii Patavini unius omnium mortalium judicio dig- 
 ni , cujus prdpe invitto calamo invitti Populi Roma- 
 ni res gefia confcriberentur . 
 
 10. The 
 
Part II. 9 CJopage t&OUgl) Italy. 065 
 
 10 . The Picture of the High Altar in the An- St. Augu- 
 guftins Church, made by Guido Rheni 3 and that ftino * 
 
 of St. John Baptifi in the Sacrifty, of the fame 
 hand, are both exquifitely well done. 
 
 1 1. The Ruins of an old Amphitheater are feen L , ^ 
 hard by the Auguftins Church. There's now a 
 Houfe built upon the place, yet the Court is oval 
 Hill, and carries the name of Arena. Here they 
 tilt, and ufe other fports of Cavalry . 
 
 1 2. In the Dominicans Church there is a very ^ 
 ftately high Altar of Pietre Comeffe . Behind the n [ co ° mi 
 Altar (in the Quire ) are the neat Tombs 
 
 of the Carariy once Signors and Princes of Pa- 
 dua, till they were put out by the Venetians . 
 
 13. In the Church of San Francefco Grande, I st.Vvin* 
 faw a curious Altar of white polilhed Marble, eelco. 
 which pleafed me very much, and the Tombs 
 
 of Cavalcante and Lengolio . 
 
 14. In the little neat Church of the Oratorians , s ^ jmas 
 called the Church of S. Thomas of Canterbury , lies % c*ntua~ 
 buried the Lady Katherine iVhitenhall, in a Vault re- 
 made on purpofe,and covered with a white Marble 
 Stone.She was Daughter to the late Earl of Shrews- 
 
 bury, and Wife to the Noble and Vertuous Thomas 
 Whitenhall Efquire. If you would know more of 
 her, read here the Ingenious Epitaph written upon 
 her Tomb, and made by her fad Husband. For 
 my part having had the honour to fee her often 
 in her Travels, I cannot but make honourable 
 mention of her here in mine 3 She having fo much 
 honoured my profeflion of Travelling, by her 
 generous Humour of Travelling. She was as 
 nobly Born as the Houfe of Shrewsbury could make 
 her : as comely , as if Poets had made her . Her be- 
 haviour was fuch, that if jhe had not been noble by 
 
 Birth , 
 
266 3 filopgc t&pttgft Italy. Part II. 
 
 Birth, jhe would have faffed for fetch by her Carri- 
 age . Her good qualities were fo many , that if they 
 had been taken in pieces, they would have made fe - 
 veral Women Noble , and noble Women happy . She 
 was wife beyond her years , ft out above her Sex, and 
 worthy to have found , in the World , all things better 
 than jhe did , except her Barents and Husband . Her 
 only fault was that , which would have made up other 
 Ladies Praifes, too much Courage ; which, befel her 
 with the name o/Talbor. But whilft her only Courage 
 haled her on to Journeys above her Sex and force ( ha- 
 ving feen Flanders, France, and Italy, accompanied 
 by her noble Hus band, and an handfom Train ) in her 
 return back, like a tall Ship , coming laden home , and 
 fraughtedwith precious acquifitions of Mind , (he funk 
 almoft in the Heaven , and alas J Died. 
 
 The Acade- i 5-Here are two Academies of Wits •, the one call* 
 nuesof eli Recover ati: the other, Gli Jnfiammati . 
 
 ^rhe learned The moft famous Men of Padua for Learning 
 Men. were thefe, Livy , Apponius, Paulas the Jurifconfult, 
 Sperone Speroni, Antonias §uerenchus, Jacobus Za - 
 barella : and Titian the famous Painter. 
 
 The Hijlo - He that defires to know the Hiftory of Padua, 
 
 nans. let him read Angelo Portinari delle f elicit ade di Pa- 
 dua : Antonio Riccobono , de Gytnnafio Patavino , & 
 de ejus praclaris doBoribus : as alfo the Book called 
 G P Origin di Padua t 
 
 Having thus feen Padua, we fleered towards Mi- 
 vicenw l an again, to make the com pleat Gyro of Italy. The 
 fir ft days Journey was to Vicenza, a fine Town be- 
 longing to the Venetians, and ftanding upon the two 
 kivers Bachilione, and Rerone, Here we faw the neat 
 Town-houfe and large Piazza: TheHoufeand 
 fine Garden of Count Valmaranafw ith the curious 
 Labyrinth in the Garden : the Arcus Trinmphalis, 
 
 made 
 
Part II, 2 CElapage tJ)? 0 ttgf) Italy. 267 
 made by Palladio at the Towns end ; letting you 
 into a fair Field called the Champo Marw^clhe** 
 where Ladies and Cavaliers in great (lore meet Ur ' 
 at the Cor fa in their Coaches, every Summer 
 Evening : the admirable Theater for Plays and 
 Opera’s 5 it was made alfo by rare Palladio , and 
 is capable of Three thoufand People, who may 
 all fit and fee with conveniency. The fine Pa- 
 laces here, and thofe full of People of Condi- 
 tion. 
 
 Here’s an Academy of Wits, called Gl’Olym - rhe j c * dem 
 pick my o f wits. 
 
 He that defires to know the Hiftory of Vi- 
 cenza, let him read Jacomo Mazari, and Alfonfo rhe Hijlori- 
 Lofchi. rians . 
 
 From Vicenza we went to Verona , called Ve- y ercna , 
 rona la Nobile } belonging to the Venetians alfo. 
 
 It ftands in excellent Air, and no Man ever faw 
 it but liked it. Its watered with the River Ad - 
 defis, which coming out of Germany , runs by 
 Trent , and fo to Verona. Hence this Town a- 
 bounds with good Provifion, Wine, and Rich 
 Merchants, which makes me of Opinion, that 
 Verona would be a better Summer-Town for 
 Strangers to live in, than Padua, The things 
 that I faw here, were thefe ^ the three Cadies, 
 which with the new Bulwarks, make this Town 
 able to defend it felf againft any Enemy. 
 
 2. The Cathedral, or Domo, antient rather 
 than ftately : In it is buried Pope Lucim the III- 
 with this Ingenuous Epitaph upon his Tomb : 
 
 Luca dedit lucem tibi, Luci , Pontificatum 
 Oftia , Papatnm Roma , Verona miri. 
 
 Imo Verona dedit tibi Lncis gaadia, Roma 
 Exitinm , taros Ofiia , Luca mri. 
 
 Rr 
 
 3. The 
 
76$ S fiSo^age t&JQUgf) Italy. Fart It 
 
 3 . The famous Tomb of the Signor idella Sea* 
 la , who once were Matters here, and from Whom 
 Jojepb and Jalius Scaliger pretend to have come : 
 This Tomb is feen from the Street, and is much 
 efteemed for its heighth and Structure. 
 
 4 . In the Monaftery of St. George , the rare 
 Pidture of St. George^ made by Paolo Veronefe , 
 for which the late LorcLMarfhal of England 
 offered Twothoufand Piftols. 
 
 ThcAmpki- 5* The rare Amphitheater, built at ^rft by 
 theater, the Conful Flaminius , and repaired lmce by the 
 Townfmen, and now the moil entire Amphi- 
 theater in Europe. 
 
 The Atade- Here's alfo an Academy of Wits, called Gli 
 my *f Wits. Pkilormonici. 
 
 The team The famoufeft Men for Learning here, were 
 td Men. thefc $ Zeno far onenfis, an Antient Father, and 
 great Preacher *, Cornelius Neposy Pliny the Se- 
 cond, Catullus , according to that, 
 
 Mantua Virgiliogaudet , Verona Catullo. 
 
 FracaftoriuSy Onuphrius, Panuinw, Panlus 
 litu the Hi dorian, Francefco Pona , Aloyfius No - 
 varinttiy and Paolo Veronefe the ingenious Painter. 
 
 Near Verona, upon the Plains, before yon 
 Come to the Town, was fought a famous Battel , 
 where C. Marius defeated the Cmbers . Near 
 tins Town alfo was fought a famous Battel be- 
 tween Theodoric and Odoacer , where the latter 
 was defeated. 
 
 He that deiires to know the Hiftory of Verona, 
 The Hi ftp* let him read Torello Saraina, Girolamo di Cone, 
 nam. Compendio delP Jftoria di Verona \ and the Ant'u 
 quit ate $ Voronenfes of Onufrm Paminns. 
 
 From 
 
Part II,. i 8 ftopage tfpugl) Italy, 2S9 
 
 From Verona we went to Brefcia y by the way Pefchiera. 
 of Pefcbitr a and Difenz,ano, Pefcbiera is a ftrong 
 Fort belonging to the Venetians, and guarded 
 bf a conftant Garifon. It Hands upon the Logo Lano & 
 diGarday Lacm Benacta antiently* and is almoft Garda. 
 furrounded by its Cryftallin Waters. It’s a 
 raoft regular Fortification, with five Baftions, 
 and high Ramparts, which cover the whole 
 Town. 
 
 Difen^ano is a little Town upon the Lake of Difnx.no. 
 Garda alfo. Here they have excellent Fifti, and 
 Wine 5 that is, rare Carpioni , and Mufcatello , 
 which they call Vino Santo. 
 
 From hence after Dinner we arrived betimes 
 at Brefcia , another ftrong Town of the Vene. £ r 
 tians. We faw here the Callle, the Town- J 
 houfe, neat Churches, the Ramparts and Walls 
 of the Town 5 the Cryftalline Brooks running 
 through the Streets 5 and the Shops of the Gun- 
 fmiths* efpecially that of Famous Laz.z.arino 
 Comminaz.z. 0 . 
 
 The beft Hiftoriansof the Brefcian Affairs, is The Ufa 
 Ottavio Roffiy in his Book called Mmoria Bre - rj* 
 fciana. 
 
 From Brefcia 1 went once to Crena i and Ber - $ rem d, 
 gamo r twoftrongTowns of the Venetians, and 
 both Frontiers to the State of Milan. The firft 
 is very ftrong, and Famous for fine Linnen made 
 here. The latter is ftrong too, both by its Ca- Bergamo. 
 file, good Walls, and its high Situation upon 
 an Hill, which gives you a fair profped into the 
 Milamje for twenty or thirty miles. In the 
 Church of the AagnjUns lies bur ied A>?.brofu^5 
 Cakpmpsy Author of the excellent Lat in Dicti- 
 onary, v^hich Learned PafferattM hath fee out 
 fo 5 v •: Rr z fmee 
 
2?0 
 
 Mant V a. 
 
 Viler. 
 
 Maxim. 
 
 1. 2. C. 1. 
 
 9 (Uopap tijICtlgf) Italy. Part II, 
 
 fince with great additions. Its in lix Languages. 
 
 From Bergamo I went to Milan y one days jour- 
 ney. Another time 1 went from Brefcia to Mi- 
 lan by the way of Mantua , and Mirandola . 
 
 Manma belongs to a Sovereign Duke, or Prince, 
 of the Houfe of Gonfague. It (lands in the midft 
 of Marfhes, which are nourifhed by the River 
 Mincm 5 fo that there’s no coming to it but by 
 two long Bridges over the Lake. And yet this 
 Town was taken fome Forty Years ago: No 
 Town being impregnable where an Afs laden 
 with Gold can enter ; or where Faction keeps 
 one Gate. For about that time the Emperor’s 
 Army, by fecret Intelligence, prefenting it felf 
 before it, was let in *, and facked the Town. At 
 the entrance of the Town Gates, they obferve 
 the FaOiion of many other Towns in Italy , to 
 make Travellers leave their Piftols and Cara- 
 bins at the Gate where they enter, and not fee 
 them again till they meet them at the other Gate 
 where they go out ; giving them, for all that, 
 a Contrafegno , or little Talley, whereof you keep 
 one piece, and the other is tied to your Piftols, 
 whereby you may claim and challenge them. 
 This was an nfitient Cuftom in the Romans times, 
 as I find in Falerm Maximus, who faith, it was 
 the Practice of thofe of Marfeilles (then a Ro- 
 man Colony) Vt hofpitiafua^ cjuemadmdw ad- 
 'venientibas htimana funt , it a ipfis tuta f vat . As for 
 Mamua it felf, its well built, and full of good 
 Houfts. The Duke’s Palace was heretofore one 
 of thericheftof Italy. I was told that it had 
 feven changes of Flangings for every Room in 
 the Houfe 5 befides a world of rare Pictures, Sta- 
 tues, Plate, Ornaments, Cabinets, an Unicorn’s 
 
 Horn, 
 
Part H. a aovagc tltfOUffD Italy. 
 
 Horn, an Organ of Alablalter 5 fix Tables, each 
 three Foot long, the fir ft all of Emeralds, 
 the fecond of Turkey Stone, the third of Hya- 
 cinths, the fourth of Saphirs, the fifth of Amber, 
 the fixth of Jafper Stone. But the Imperialifts 
 fwept all away. The Origin of the Houfe of The 'Duke s 
 Gonfagtie is from Germany. For a long time they Faml b • 
 were only Marquifes of Mantua , till Charles V. 
 m?de them Dukes. The Revenues of this Prince His Revs 
 are about Five hundred thoufand Crowns. His 
 Intereft (as that of the other lefler Princes o f lnttr ~ 
 Italy) is to join with the (Longer of the two J 
 Nations, Frame or Spain . And he hath been of- 
 ten forc’d to put now and then a French Garifon, 
 and riow then a Spanifh Garifon into his ftrong 
 Town of Cafal ^ one of the ftrongeft Places I Cafal. its 
 faw in all Italy ; having an excellent Cittadel at strength. 
 one end of it, a ftrong Caftle at the other, and 
 ftrong Ditches, Walls, and Ramparts every 
 where. In fine, this Duke can raife about Fif- 
 teen thoufand Foot, and Two thoufand Horfe. 
 
 Of Mantua were thefe two Excellent Latin 
 Poets, Old Virgil^ and Modern Bapufia Mama- 
 anas a Carmelite* 
 
 He that defires to know the Hiftory of Man - Its Hl j ory ^ 
 tm y let him read Mario Aqaicola . 
 
 From Mantua we went to Mirandola , being Mlran- 
 invited thither by its wonderful Name. It is a dola * 
 Principality far more ancient than great •, and it 
 is fo called from three Children born here of a 
 great Lady, at one Birth. The Story, as it is 
 pretty, fo it is related by good Authors, and Francifcu* 
 therefore I will give it you here, in the end °^^ er 
 this my Italian Journey, as a Farewell. And Vis Aibatu^ 
 this ; Conflantifts the Emperor, Son of Confian- 
 R r 3 tine 
 
8 (Uowp tljlougf) Italy. Part II. 
 
 rise the Great, had a Daughter called Earidis S 
 who being grown up in Years, fell in Love with 
 Manfred, a Courtier of her Unkle Canftantine , 
 anhandfom well-bred young Gentleman. Man* 
 fred was both Courtier enough, and wife enough, 
 tounderftand this to be no fmall Honour ; and 
 therefore embraced her Affe&ion with a corre- 
 fponding Flame. In a word, they meet often 5 
 talk of it \ give mutual Promifes 5 make all the 
 Money they can, and Jewels, and flee away fe« 
 cretiy. They come into Italy, land at Naples , 
 from thence to Ravenna, and at laft pitch upon 
 this Country where now Mir andola ftands. It 
 was then a place overfpread with Thickets and 
 llnder-woods, and furnilliing fome Pafturage 
 for Sheep, and Cottages for Shepherds. Here 
 then they chufe to live privately, and converfe 
 *with none but Country Swains, and Shepherds. 
 Blind Love, whither doft thou hurry Princeffes, 
 to make them prefer Cottages before Courts ? 
 At laft, with their Money they buy Land, and 
 Manfred grew foon to that Authority among his 
 Neighbours, that they chufe him for their 
 Head 5 and recur unto him upon all occafions for 
 his Advice and Prote&ion : In the mean time 
 (having folemnly Married Euridis at his arrival 
 in Italy) (he brings him forth three Sons at once, 
 Picut, Pint) and Papaz.z.0 v and Manfred grows 
 far more confiderable daily in thefe Parts. At 
 laft the Emperor Conffiantim coming into Italy 
 upon his Occafions, and being Complimented 
 by all the feveral Provinces? thereof, this Pro- 
 vince, among the reft, chofe Manfred as their 
 Ambaftador to the faid Emperor, to carry to him 
 the tender of their Refpefts and Homage. Man- 
 ji,' i :i , , . -r.'.ifmi 
 
Part IT. ^Opaffetfptlffl) Italy. 373 
 fred accepted of the Employment, and carried 
 himfelf fo Gallantly in the Embafly, that the 
 Emperor Knighted him, and upon further trial 
 of his Worth raifed him to high Favour. Man* 
 fred feeing the Realities of the Emperor,thought 
 it now high time to difcover himfelf to him. 
 Wherefore calling himfelf one day at the Em- 
 peror’s Feet, and begging his Pardon, he difco- 
 vered himfelf unto him, and told him his whole 
 Story and Adventures. At firft the Emperor 
 was a little troubled \ but finding fuch Freedom 
 and Gallantry in his Carriage, mingled with 
 fueh humble Ingenuity in the Confeflion of his 
 Fault ; he not only pardoned what was pall, 
 but prefently fent for Euridu and her Children 
 to come to him, and live at Court with him. 
 
 This done, he makes Manfred Count and Mar- 
 quis of a great part of thefe Countries, and gives 
 him leave to build Towns and Cattles there : 
 
 And for his Arms gives him the Black Eagle. In 
 fine, in Memory of the three Children born fo 
 wonderfully at one Birth, he commands that 
 the chief Town Ihould be called Miranda . After 
 the Death of Canftantius , Manfred and his Lady 
 returned with great Riches unto their old 
 dwelling place, and there began to build Mi- 
 randa \ which in procefs of time was called Mi - 
 randola. This true Story, if it look like a Ro- 
 mance, you mull not wonder, feeing Romances 
 now a days look like true Stories. 
 
 The Prince of Mirandola receives yearly Four- 
 ffore thoufand Crowns. 
 
 The greatell Ornament of this Country, was jo. view 
 that Famous Joannes Ficus Aiirandulanm \ whofe Miranch* 
 Life Sir Thom* Moor mote, and having written !anus - 
 it, lived it. R r 4 From 
 
274 3 (Homage t&Ottglj Italy. Part II, 
 
 From Mirandola I ftruck’ to Pama y and fo 
 to Piacenza, Lodi , and Marigno J defcribed all 
 above \ and at laft to Milan again, where I had 
 been before, and where my Giro of Italy ended, 
 as now my Journey and Defcription doth. I 
 taking here a new rife from Milan , and crofling 
 through Swijferland by the Lake of Com , and 
 orver Mount St .Godart, came to Bafil ; here 
 Embarking upon the Rhine y I faw Stratburgh y 
 Brifac y Spire , Philipsburghy Openheinty Coblentz^y 
 Hamerfiede , Wormes y Franc forty Mayer, cey Co - 
 logny baffeldorpy Stynskfoncey RaiSy Wefdy Arne- 
 
 hemy and divers other Rhinifh Towns : Then 
 having viewed Holland and Blander s\ I came at 
 laft to Calais y and fo home to my dear Country, 
 JLnglandy by way of Dover • 
 
 FINIS . 
 
 THE 
 
 7 
 
TABLE 
 
 O F THE 
 
 NAMES 
 
 O F THE 
 
 Chief TOWNS contained 
 in this Second PARTS. 
 
 A C. 
 
 ^ ? I . . 
 
 A Dria 123 Gaeta rfo 
 
 Albano 1 97 Capua l6 3 
 
 Amiclas 143 Campania 172 
 
 Ancona 217 Carigliano* River 171 
 
 Affilium 2cd Cafal 27 1 
 
 Averfa 174 Catholica 21 3 
 
 Geravalle 1 1 5 
 
 B. Cafena 220 
 
 Crema 269 
 
 Bate 191 Curaa 194 
 
 Bergamt) id 9 Cicero's Baths 193 
 
 Brefcia 269 
 
 D. Difen- 
 
TheTAE L E. 
 
 
 D. 
 
 
 Lagodi Garda, 
 
 2 6$ 
 
 £ ■ ' 
 
 
 Loreto 
 
 207 
 
 Difenfano 
 
 269 
 
 kS. ■ -v. .*■’ ’ ’• 
 
 • 'CV -• ; - V1 #"• > > ' 
 
 
 
 
 M. 
 
 
 E. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Macerata 
 
 207 
 
 Elifian Fields 
 
 ipi 
 
 Mantua 
 
 270 
 
 
 
 Marino 
 
 *57 
 
 F. 
 
 
 Mtnturna 
 
 162 
 
 Faenza 
 
 220 
 
 Mirandola 
 
 271 
 
 Fano 
 
 218 
 
 Mola 
 
 *59 
 
 Ferrara 
 
 22s 
 
 Mons Maflkos 
 
 172 
 
 Follgna 
 
 20& 
 
 Monte Falco 
 
 206 
 
 Forli 
 
 220 
 
 Monte Garo 
 
 172 
 
 Formiae 
 
 *59 
 
 Murano 
 
 *54 
 
 FofTa Nova 
 
 8 57 
 
 
 
 Ferfcati 
 
 m 
 
 N. 
 
 
 Fundi 
 
 19$ 
 
 
 
 
 
 Naples. 
 
 *74 
 
 G. 
 
 
 Narni 
 
 204 
 
 Gandulfo 
 
 * 9 f 
 
 if; 
 
 
 Grotta dell Cane 200 
 
 
 
 Grottadi Pofilipo 1 89 
 
 Padua 
 
 261 
 
 St. Gannaro t 
 
 Stoves 
 
 Palma Nova 
 
 231 
 
 
 201 
 
 Paulilipus, Mu 
 
 
 K. 
 
 
 Peperno 
 
 *57 
 
 
 
 Pefaro 
 
 2>8 
 
 Kindom of Navies 174 
 
 Pefchiera 
 
 269 
 
 Kingdom of 
 
 Cyfrw 
 
 Puzzolo 
 
 I 9 I 
 
 
 230 
 
 
 
 L. 
 
 
 ! R: 
 
 
 La Laguna 
 
 224 
 
 Recanata 
 
 207 
 
 Lacus Avernus 
 
 ij> 4 
 
 Rimini 
 
 219 
 
 f '. ’’ 1 : l 
 
 
 
 Rome 
 
The TABLE. 
 
 Rome 3 ,&c. 
 
 Ruigno ' 223 
 
 Rubicon, River. 220 
 
 S. 
 
 Senegallia 218 
 
 Spoleto 204 
 
 Sulphatara i8p 
 
 V ft v & ; 
 
 T • 
 
 - -1 -1 ' 
 
 Taracina 157 
 
 Terni 204 
 
 Tyber, &Veri 204 
 
 Tivoli 2ot 
 
 Tolentino 20 6 
 
 Tres Taberne 175 
 
 V. 
 
 Veletri 157 
 
 Venice 2*4 
 
 Verona 267 
 
 Vefuvius, ,<Wr. 183 
 
 Via Apia. 1 39 
 
 ViaFlaminia 203 
 
 Vicenza. 266 
 
 Villa Ludovilia 200 
 
 . j iv; •>-, 
 
 , 
 
 Boofo 
 
 t ft . 
 
Books Printed, for Richard Welling- 
 ton, at the Lute in St.Va.vXs Church’ 
 
 Tard. 
 
 T H E next Week will be publilh’d the 
 Hiftory of Polybius the Megalaepoli- 
 ton: Containing a General Account 
 of the Tranfa&ions of the whtfle 
 World. In three Volumes ; the laft never be- 
 fore Publifh’d. Tranflated from the Original 
 by Sir Henry Sheets. With a Chara&er of the 
 Author, and his Writings, by John Lryden Efq; 
 
 Familiar Letters: Vol. I. Written by the 
 Right Honourable John y late Earl of Rochefter % 
 to the Honourable Henry Savile Efq* And other 
 Letters by Perfons of Honour and Quality* 
 With Letters written by the moft Ingenious 
 Mr. Tho . Otway , and Mrs K. Philips . Publifli’d 
 from their Original Copies : With Modern 
 Letters by Tho . Cheek m Efq^ Mr. Dennis, and 
 Mr. Brown . 
 
 All the Hiftories and Novels written by the 
 Late Ingenious Mrs Behn, entire in One Vo- 
 lume. Viz. I. The Hiftory of Oroonoko , or the 
 Royal Slave. Written by the Command of 
 King Charles the Second. II. The Fair Jilt , or 
 Prince Tar quin. III. Jtgnes de Caftro , or the 
 Force of Generous Love. IV. The Lover's 
 
 1Vatfh 9 
 
Watch, er the Art of making Love \ being Rules 
 for Courtftiip for every Hour of the Day and 
 Night. V. The Ladies Looking-Glafs to Drefs 
 themfelves by, or the whole Art of Charming 
 all Mankind. VI. The Lucky Miftake. VII. Me- 
 moirs of the Court of the King of Bantam. 
 VIII. The Nun, or the Perjured Beauty; IX. 
 The Adventure of thee Black Lady. Thefe 
 three laft never before Publilhed. Together 
 with the Hiftory of the Life and Memoirs of 
 Mrs Behn. Never before Printed : By one of 
 the Fair Sex. Intermixed with Pleafant Love- 
 Letters that pafs’d betwixt her and Min-Heer 
 Van Bruin , a Dutch Merchant ; with her Cha- 
 racter of the Country and Lover : And her Love 
 Letters to a Gentleman in England . The Third 
 Edition, with Large Additions. 
 
 The Whole Works of that Excellent Practi- 
 cal Phyfician Dr Thomas Sydenham. Wherein 
 not only the Hiftory and Cures of acute Dif- 
 eafes are treated of after a new and accurate Me- 
 thod 5 but alfo the fafeft and (horteft way of 
 Curing moft Chronical Difeafes : Tranflated 
 from the Original Latin, by John Techy , M. D. 
 <j£ the College of Phyficians. 
 
 There is newly Publiflfd, a new and ealie Me- 
 thod to underftand the Roman Hiftory. With 
 an exaCt Chronology of the Reigns of the Em- 
 perors \ an Account of the moft Eminent Au- 
 thors, when they flourifti’d ; and an Abridg- 
 ment of the Roman Antiquities and Cuftoms. 
 By way of Dialogue, for the life of the Duke 
 of Butgundy. Done out of French, with very 
 
 Large 
 
Large Addition^and Amendments, by Thm# 
 Brow. Very nfeful and proper to be read in- 
 Schools^ 
 
 A Mathematical Companion, or the Defcri- 
 ptionand Ufe of a new Aiding Rule, by which 
 many Ufeful and Neceflary Queftions in Arith- 
 metick, Military Orders, Ijicerefts, Trigono- 
 metry, Planometry, Sterenometry, Geography, 
 Aftronomy, Navigation, Fortification, Gunnery, 
 Dyalling, may be fpeedily refolved without the 
 help of Pen or Compafles» By William Hum 9 
 Philomath. 
 
 A Difcourfe upon the Nature and Faculties of 
 Man, in feveral Eflays : With fome confidera* 
 tions on the Occurences of Human Life. By 
 Tim . Nourfe , Gent. 
 
 Ovid Traveftie : Or a Burlefque on Ovid's 
 Epiftles, by Captain Alexander Radcliff. 
 
 Reflections upon Antientand Modern Learn- 
 ing. By William Wotton , B. D. Chaplain to the 
 Right Honourable the Earl of Nottingham . The 
 Second Addition, with Large Additions. With 
 a Diflertation upon the Epiftles of Phalaris , 
 Themifiocles , Socrates , Euripides, &C. and JEfop's 
 fables, by Dr Bentley. 
 
 The Family Phyfician ; being a Choice Col- 
 lection of Approved and Experienced Reme- 
 dies, to Cure all Difeafes incident to Humane 
 Bodies; ufeful in Families, and ferviceable to 
 Country People, by George Hartman , Chymift , 
 Servant to Sir Kenelm Digby , till he died. 
 
 , A General Treatife of the Difeafes of Infants 
 and Children, Collected from the moft Emi- 
 nent Practical Authors, by John Pef hey, of the 
 College of Phyficians, 
 
 Con- 
 
Contemplations Moral and Divine, in three 
 Parts i Written by the Late Lord Chief Juftice 
 Hales, to which is adde^ the Life of the Author, 
 by Gilbert Lord Bifliop of Sar*m 9 The third 
 Part may be had fingly. 
 
 Coder’s Decimal Arithmetick* the Second 
 Edition, very much enlarged, by John Haw- 
 kins, School-Mafter at St George's Church in 
 Southward 
 
 Fade Mecum $ or the Neceflary Companion* 
 containing SlvSam. Morelands Perpetual Alma- 
 nack, Chewing the Days of the Month for any 
 Year, paft, prefent, or to come. A Table oi 
 the Kings Reigns lince the Conqueft, compared 
 with the Years of Chrift. A Table wherein 
 any numbers of Farthings, Half-pence, Pence 
 and Shillings are ready caft up 5 of great ufe to 
 all Treaders. The Intereft and Rebate of Mo- 
 ney, the Forbearance, Difcount, and Purchafe 
 of Annuities. The Rates of Polb Letters, In- 
 w land and Outland. Account of the Penny-Poft. 
 The Principal Roads in England, fhewing the 
 diftance of each Town from London * alfo the 
 Market Towns on each Road, with the days of 
 the week the Markets are kept on * alfo the 
 Hundred and County each Town ftands in. 
 The Names of the Canties, Cities, and Bo- 
 rough Towns in England and Wales, with the 
 number of Knights, Citizens and Burgefles cho- 
 fen therein, to ferve in Parliament. The ufuai 
 Raters and Fares of Coachmen , Carmen and 
 Watermen. The Sixth Edition, much En- 
 larged. 
 
 flays 
 
Plays Printed for an fold by Richard 
 WellingtottyZt the Lute in St. Poufs 
 Church-Yard. 
 
 Where you may be furnijhed wit moSI Plays. 
 
 Op H E Irapofture Defeated : Or a trick to 
 X Cheat the Devil. A Comedy, as it was 
 Afted by his Majefties Servants, at the Theatre 
 
 in Drury-Lone. 
 
 Innocent Miftrefs 
 Unnatural Mother 
 Spanifh Wives 
 Unnatural Brother 
 Plot and no plot 
 Younger Brother, or 
 Amorous Jilt 
 Old Batchelor 
 Agnes de Caftro 
 Rover,or Banifh’dCa- 
 vilier 
 
 Relapfe, or Vertue in 
 Danger 
 
 Rule a Wife and have 
 a Wife 
 
 Country Wife 
 Rehearfal 
 
 Anatotniftjor the Sham 
 Dodtor 
 
 Cyrus the Great, or the 
 Tragedy of Love 
 
 Don Quixot in three 
 Parts 
 
 Roman bridesRevenge 
 The Marriage Hater 
 Match’d 
 Country Wake. 
 Negledted Virtue 
 Phyrrus King of Fpirus 
 Very Good Wife 
 Womans wit, or Lady 
 in Faihion 
 The Gallants 
 Sullen Lovers 
 Humcurifts 
 Mackbeth 
 Timon of Athens 
 Oedipus 
 
 Ibrahim the t jth Em- 
 peror of the Turks 
 Canterbury Guefts 
 Loft Lovers 
 

special 
 
 43 '£ 
 
 1*45 
 
 
 THE GETTY CENTER 
 
 library