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Digitized by the Internet Archive 
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 https://archive.org/details/tourfromcityofneOOdarb_0 
 
^ TO IT R 
 
 FJIOM THE CITY OP NEW-YORK, 
 
 IN THE MICHIGAN TERRITO 
 
 MADE BETWEEN THE 2d OF MAY AND THE 22d OF SEPTEMBER, 1818, 
 
 The Tour extends from New-York, by Albany, Schenectady, and Utica, to 
 Sacket's Harbor, and thence through Lake Ontario, to St. Lawrence river, and 
 down that stream to Hamilton village. Thence along both banks of the St. Law- 
 rence, from Hamilton to the Thousand Islands ; thence to Sacket's Harbor by 
 water ; from that place by the route of great Sodus, Geneva, Canandaigua, and 
 Batavia,to Buffalo; and from thence to Black Rock, Fort Erie, the Falls of Ni- 
 agara, Qucenstown, Lewiston, and the memorable fields of Bridgewater and 
 Chippewa. After viewing the interesting pass of Niagara, the author traversed 
 the south shore of Lake Erie to the City of Detroit, and visited in the latter range 
 Dunkirk, Erie, Cleveland, Sandusky, and other places of less note. 
 
 The Tour contains notices of what fell under the author's observation concern,, 
 lag the natural history and geography of the region over which his travels ex- 
 tended, with brief remarks upon such remarkable events and characters as have 
 ii'ontributed to give interest to different places. 
 
 THE TOUR IS ACCOMPANIED WITH A MAP UPON WHICH THE 
 ROUTE WILL BE DESIGNATED ; A PARTICULAR MAP 
 OP THE PALLS AND RIVER OP NIAGARA, 
 AND THE ENVIRONS OP THE 
 CITY OP DETROIT, 
 
 BY WILLIAM DARBY, 
 
 MEMEER OF THE NEW" YORK HISTORICAL SOCIETY. 
 
 .Author of a Map and Statistical Account of Louisiana; and Emigrant's Guide 
 
 NEW-YORK: 
 
 PUBLISHED FOR THE AUTHOR, BY KIRK & MERCEIN, 
 
 And sold by Kirk h Mercein, A. T. Goodrich k Co. James Eastburn & Co W B 
 Gilley, Charles Wiley & Co. R. M'Dermut, William Hooker, and Collins h Co 
 JNew-Yorkj and by some others of the principal Booksellers in the Unite. 1 
 States, 
 
 1819. 
 
>OUi HERN DiSf illCf OF NEW-YOllK, ss, 
 
 BE i r REMEMBERED, That on the sixteenth da £ of January, 
 in the Eorty-third year of the independence of the United States 
 Hili%IJS °^ America, A. D. !8l9, WILLIAM DARBY, of the said district, 
 vM^'?V ^atli deposed in this office the Title of a Book, the right whereof 
 V^Jy^i 1 * lie claims as Proprietor, in the words following, to wit : 
 
 " A Tour from the City of New-York, to Detroit, in the Michigan Territory, 
 made between the 2d of May, and the 22d of September, 1818. The Tour ex- 
 tends from NewrYork, by Albany, Schenectady, and Utica, to Sacket's Harbor, 
 rind thence through Lake Ontario, to St. Lawrence river, and down that stream 
 to Hamilton village. Thence alongboth banks of the St. Lawrence, from Ha- 
 milton to the Thousand Islands ; thence to Sacket's Harbor by water ; from that 
 place by the route of great Sodus, Geneva, Canandaigua, and Batavia, to Buffa- 
 lo ; and from thence to Black Rock, F ort Erie, the Falls of Niagara, Queenstown, 
 Lewiston, and the memorable fields of Bridge water and Chippewa. After view- 
 ing the interesting pass of Niagara, the author traversed the south shore of 
 Lake Erie to the City of Detroit, and visited in the latter range Dunkirk, Erie, 
 Cleveland, Sandusky, and other places of less note. The Tour contains notices 
 of what fell under the author's observation concerning the natural history and 
 geography of the region over which his travels extended, with brief remarks 
 upon such remarkable events and characters as have contributed to give interest 
 to different places, The Tour is accompanied with a Map upon which the route 
 will he designated : a particular Map of the Falls and River of Niagara, and the 
 environs of the City of Detroit. By William Darby, Member of the JNew- 
 Vork Historical Society. Author of a Map and Statistical Account of Louisia- 
 na : and Emigrant's Guide." 
 
 In conformity to the v\ct of the Congress of the United States, entitled, " An 
 Act for tiie encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of Maps, Charts, 
 and Books, to the Authors and Proprietors of such copies, during the time there- 
 in mentioned.** — And also to the Act, entitled, " An Act supplementary to an 
 Act, entitled an Act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies 
 of Maps, Charts, and Books, to the Authors and Proprietors of such copies, du- 
 ring the times therein mentioned, and extending the benefits thereof to the arts 
 ■M' desigiiifig, eng^avin^', and etching historical and other prints/' 
 
 JAMES DILL, Clerk of the Southern District of New-York. 
 
« I wrapped myself in my cloak, and lay down under a 
 laurel, on the bank of the Eurotas. The night was so purr 
 and so serene, and the milky way shed such a light, reflected 
 by the current of the river, that you might see to read by it, 
 I fell asleep with my eyes fixed upon the heavens, having the 
 beautiful constellation of Leda's swan exactly over my head, 
 I still recollect the pleasure which I formerly received from 
 thus reposing in the woods of America, and especially from 
 awaking in the middle of the night. I listened to the whist- 
 ling of the wind through the wilderness ; the braying of the 
 does and stags; the roar of a distant cataract; xvhile tint 
 embers of my half extinguished fire, gloived between* the foli- 
 age of the trees. I loved even to hear the voice of the Iro- 
 quois, when he shouted in the recesses of his forests, and when, 
 in the brilliant star-light, amid the silence of nature, he seem* 
 ed to be proclaiming his unbounded liberty* Ml this may af- 
 ford delight at twenty ; because, then life suffices, in a man- 
 ner, for itself, and there is in early youth, a certain restless* 
 uess and inquietude, which incessantly encourage the creation 
 of chimeras, ipsi sibi somniafingunt: but in maturer age, the 
 mind contracts a relish for more solid pursuits, and loves, in 
 particular, io dwell on the illustrious examples recorded in 
 history. Gladly ivould I again make my couch on the banks 
 of the FAirotas, or the Jordan, if the heroic shades of the 
 three hundred Spartans, or the twelve sons of Jacob, were to 
 visit my slumbers ; but I would not go again to explore a vir- 
 gin soil, which the ploughshare has never lacerated. Give 
 me now ancient deserts, xvhere I can conjure up at plea surf, 
 
3 V PREFACE. «^ 
 
 the walls of Babylon, or the legions of P7i«rgaft«— grandia 
 osa ; plains whose f urrows convey instruction, and where, 
 mortal as J am, I trace the Mood, the tears, and the sweat, of 
 human kind"* 
 
 I cannot conceive the satisfaction it can give, to a generous 
 and feeling heart to trace the last fragments of a ruined ci- 
 ty, 1>r behold reduced to desolation, fields that once waved in 
 golden harvest. To the eye of reason and philosophy, a re- 
 view may be desirable of the revolutions of human society* 
 in all the various stages from the savage horde to the most 
 refined civilization ; but to me, it M ould yield more pain than 
 gratification, to behold Rome, Athens, or Jerusalem, in dust 
 and ashes. The reminiscence that should reeal former great- 
 ness, that would raise in imagination trom the tomb the Peri- 
 cles, Euripides, Maccabees, the Scipios or the Csesars, 
 would excite, rather a tear of bitter regret, than a pleasing 
 sentiment of poetic enthusiasm, on glancing over the ocean 
 of past time. I would rather indulge my fancy in following 
 the future progress, than in surveying the wreck of human 
 happiness; I would rather see one flourishing village rising 
 from the American wilderness, than behold the ruins of Bal- 
 bec, Palmyra, and Perse pol is. 
 
 Like Chateaubriand, I have often reposed in the woods and 
 plains of North America, in the silence of night, under the 
 glances of the swan of Leda, the gleams of Sinus, or the 
 beams of the pale moon playing amid the leaves of the fo- 
 rest, or exhibiting the fairy picture of the distant prairie, 
 I have thus often in the awful solitude of the cane brake, 
 or the cedar groves, contemplated the rapid march of active 
 industry; I have fancied the rise of towns and villages, the 
 clearing of fields, the creation of rich harvests, of orchards* 
 meadows, and pastures. I have beheld the deep gloom around 
 me dispelled, the majestic but dreary forest disappeared, the 
 savage was turned into civilized man ; schools, colleges^ 
 
 * Travels in Greece, Palestine, Egypt, and Barbary, by F. A. 
 de Chateaubriand; Sfcorbell's translation, N.'Y. p. 109. 
 
t 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 churches, and legislative halls arose. The liver, upon whose 
 bunks now grew the tangled vine, and in whose waters the 
 loathsome alligator floated, became covered with barks load- 
 ed with the produce of its shores ; 1 heard the songs of joy 
 and gladness ; I beheld fair science shed her smiles upon a 
 happv and enlightened people ; 1 beheld the heavenly form 
 of religion, clothed in the simple garb of love and truth, 
 teaching the precepts of present and everlasting peace; I 
 saw liberty and law interposing between the shafts of op- 
 pression and the bosom of innocence ;— and I saw the stern 
 brow of justice bedewed with a tear over the chastised vic- 
 tim. 
 
 Many were the long and tedious hours I have thus beguil- 
 ed, when no sound interrupted my chain of reflection, 
 except the sighing of the nightly breeze, and I have enjoyed 
 a pleasure greater than man ever felt amongst " broken co- 
 lumns and disjoined arcades." I have seen on an immense 
 surface, these warm anticipations realized. In west Virgi- 
 nia, in west Pennsylvania, in Kentucky, Ohio, Indiana, Illi- 
 nois, Tennessee, Missouri, Mississippi, Louisiana, and Ala- 
 bama ; in west New-York, Michigan, and in Canada, I have 
 for thirty-five years, been a witness to the change of a wil- 
 derness to a cultivated garden- I have roamed in forests, and 
 upon the same ground now stand legislative halls, and tem- 
 ples of religion. New states have risen, and are daily rising 
 upon this once dreary waste. 1 am willing to leave the man 
 unenvied to his enjoyments, who would prefer the barbaric 
 picture uow presented by Greece, Asia Minor, Syria, and 
 Palestine, t j the glowing canvass whose tints are daily be- 
 coming richer and stronger, upon the livers and hills of 
 North America, I would rather read the immortal works 
 of Homer, Thucidydes, or Demosthenes, upon the banks of 
 She Ohio or St. Lawrence, than search the deserted tombs of 
 I hose mighty geniuses, in their now desolate native land. 
 These men have left their bones to oblivion, their works 
 they have bequeathed to the human race. Amid the thou- 
 
\\ PKEFACE. 
 
 sand objects that are constantly before the mental eye, m 
 this new moral creation, none is more wonderful or more al- 
 luring than the existence of more than a thousand semina- 
 ries of education, where less than thirty years past, stood no- 
 mansion of civilized man. 
 
 In this as in every other of my works, I have given my 
 naked reflections to the reader. Too much of my life has 
 been spent in actual travelling, to admit the order and polish 
 of a writer who enjoyed more closet leisure ; but to relate 
 what I saw, needed not a linished erudition, it demanded afr 
 respect for truth and human esteem ; a respect, the sense of 
 which I trust never to lose, until I cease to exist amongst 
 mankind. 
 
 WILLIAM DARBY. 
 
 New-Fork, January i, 1819, 
 
TO THE READER. 
 
 Before perusing this treatise, the reader is respectfully requested to observe 
 and note the following omissions and corrections. 
 
 I find on reviewing the sheets, that I have not been sufficiently explicit in my 
 notices of the following places, upon the St. Lawrence river : Hamilton, Og- 
 densburgh, Prescott, Brockville, and Morristown. I have subjoined the follow- 
 ing brief description of these towns : 
 
 Hamilton, is a village in St. Lawrence county, in the state of New-York, stand- 
 ing upon the bank of St. Lawrence river, opposite Ogden's island. This village 
 has been recently established ; it is thriving, and like all towns upon the St. 
 Lawrence, has a fine effect, from the gentle acclivity of the ground upon which 
 it stands. The soil in this neighborhood is excellent ; timber, composed of hem- 
 lock, pine, and sugar maple. 
 
 Ogdenshurgh stands upon the lower point of land, formed by the junction of the 
 Oswegatchie with the St. Lawrence river; the site is high, and like all other 
 parts of the St. Lawrence banks, rises by gradual acclivity from the water. Og- 
 densburg is the seat of justice in and for St. Lawrence county, and has a pros- 
 perous appearance, with a post-office, three or four taverns, eight or ten stores, 
 several mechanics' shops, such as carpenters, hatters, shoemakers, and fay* 
 lors. The town contains about 80 dwelling-houses, and about 400 inhabitants. 
 The mouth of the Oswegatchie river forms a good harbor for small vessels. 
 
 Prescott) in the township of Augusta, county of Grenville, stands upon the Can- 
 ada shore of St. Lawrence river, opposite Ogdensburg. The two towns do not 
 /differ much in extent or number of inhabitants. Prescott is the seat of justice 
 for the county in which it is situated, and is a flourishing, commercial village. 
 
 Prescott and Ogdensburg, occupy the lowest points of ship navigation from 
 lake Ontario ; two steam-boats are in operation between these towns, and 
 Kingston, Sacket's Harbor, and other places in lake Ontario. 
 
 Brockville, the seat of justice for the county of Leeds, Upper Canada, stands 
 upon the bank of St. Lawrence, in Elizabeth township, 18 miles above Prescot t 
 The situation of Brockville is pleasing and romantic. The banks on the Cana- 
 da side, above and below the town, are high, rocky, and precipitous, and the 
 river chequered with islands. The opposite bank of the river, in the state of 
 New-York, is yet a forest. The neighborhood around Brockville is well culti- 
 vated and populous; the town is flourishing and commercial. 
 
 Morristown is a small village upon the St. Lawrence, in the county of St. Law- 
 rence, about two miles below Brockville. This village has but little to render \\ 
 remarkable, consisting only of about a dozen houses, with a post-office. 
 
 Describing Utica, (see page 55) I omitted to mention its fine bridge over the 
 Mohawk river, 
 
Vili 
 
 TO THE READER; 
 
 Page 27, third line of the note, for " this latter circumstance, ivas, however, il& 
 doubt" read, this latter circumstance was no doubt. 
 
 Page 37, 9th line from the top, for "from the margin dell," read from the mar- 
 gin. 
 
 Page 55, fourth line from the top, for " city of Utica" read, town of Utica. 
 Page 59, line 12th from the top, for " colonial" read, colloquial. 
 Page 61, third line from tiie top, for " producing effects," read, which produced 
 effects. 
 
 Page 72, line 11th from the bottom, for " side land" read, land side. 
 
 Page 73, lines four and five from the bottom, for " ten or twelve miles," read, 
 two or three miles. 
 
 Page 91, line 15th from the top, for " muddings" read muddiness. 
 
 Page 118 ; I there mention an intention to note the comparative quantity of 
 water in the St. Lawrence and the Mississippi rivers, but have omitted that of 
 the latter ; the reader will please substitute for (" see appendix, No. 2,") the 
 following words, applied to the Mississippi : 
 
 " We may imagine a semi-ellipsis, whose longitudinal diameter represents the 
 river's breadth, and whose longest ordinate, its depth ; allow 150 feet as the 
 length of the ordinate line, or depth of water at the greatest elevation, and 2,400 
 feet as the extent of the elliptical diameter or river's breadth, we are confident 
 that those constituent principles will give a very correct result. From the ap- 
 plication of the above elements, 141,372 cubic feet would be contained within 
 one foot longitudinal section of the river. At the rate of one mile an hour, 
 5,280 feet in length would be discharged every hour, or 746,444,160 cubic feet s 
 of the entire mass ." 
 
 [Darby 1 s Louisiana, JV\ Y. Ed. p. 58. 
 Page 161, line 19th from the top, for " G. D. C. ; W. P" read, G. D . C. ; A. T.G.; 
 and W. P. he. 
 
 Page 169, line 7th from the bottom, for October " 8th, 1814," read, October 12th x 
 1812 ; and bottom line, for " Real," read, Kial. 
 
 Page 212, line 4th from top, for " Mr. Isaac Kibbe," read, Mr. Kibbe. Mr. Isaac 
 Kibbe is the brother of the gentleman of tha' name, who Keeps a public \nn 2 m 
 the town of Buffalo 
 
A TOUR 
 
 FROM NEW-YORK TO DETROIT. 
 LETTER I. 
 
 Albany 9 May 3d, ISIS, 
 
 Beak Sir, 
 
 Amid the violence of wind and rain, I arrived in this 
 city at b o'clock this afternoon. Though spring has made 
 some advances near New-York, here (he face of nature ; 
 marked with all the bleakness of winter, ®%w* 
 this season, no scenery can exhib^ « 
 that of the Hudson \ ~ 
 leafless r 
 
 xiudson river 
 -^ivea most places of note on 
 
 jl nad then occasion to make a remark I have since found 
 just ; that the arrangements of the Steam-Boats, deprive 
 passengers of the view of much of the richest scenery of 
 this interesting region. The passage of the river, through 
 the Fishkill mountains, is indeed one of the finest landscapes 
 
 H 
 
viii 
 
 TO THE READER; 
 
 Page 27, third line of the note, for " this latter circumsianee, was, however, m 
 doubt " read, this latter circumstance was no doubt. 
 
 Page 37, 9th line from the top, for "from the margin dell,'" read from the mar- 
 gin. 
 
 Page 55, fourth line from the top, for " city of Utica" read, town of Utica. 
 
 Page 59, line 12th from the top, for i: colonial" read, colloquial. 
 
 Page 61, third line from the top, for " producing effects," read, which produced 
 effects. " . ' v . ■ - ~ §.) 
 
 Page 752, line 11th from the bottom, for " side land" read, land side. 
 
 Page 73, lines four and five from the bottom, for " ten or twelve miles," read? 
 two or three miles. 
 
 Page 91, hue 15th from the top, for " muddings," read muddiness. 
 
 Page 118; I there mention an intention to note the comparative quantity of 
 water in the St. Lawrence and the Mississippi rivers, but have omitted that of 
 the latter ; the reader will please substitute for (" see appendix, No. 2,") the 
 following words, applied to the Mississippi : 
 
 " We may imagine a semi-ellipsis, whose longitudinal diameter re presents the 
 river's breadth, and whose longest ordinate, its depth ; allow 150 feet as the 
 length of the ordinate line, or depth of water at the greatest elevation, and 2,400 
 feet as the extent of the elliptical diameter or river's breadth, we are confident 
 that those constituent principles will give a very correct result. From the ap- 
 plication of the above elements, 141,372 cubic feet would be contained within 
 one foot longitudinal section of the river. At the rate of one mile an hour, 
 5,280 feet in length would be discharged every hour, or 746,444,160 cubic feet;, 
 of the entire mass." 
 
 [Darbifs Louisiana, JY. Y. Ed. p. 58. 
 Page J 61, line 19th from the top, for " G. D. C. ; W. P." read, G.D.C.; A. T.G.; 
 and \V. P. he. 
 
 Page 169, line 7th from the bottom, for October " Zth, 1814," read, October 12th* 
 1812 ; and bottom line, for " Real," read, Rial. 
 
 Page 212, line 4th from top, for " Mr. Isaac Kibbe," read, Mr. Kibbe. Mr. Isaac 
 
 m Mow* erfopwm Mectei afUr 
 'printed. 
 
 V 
 
A TOUR 
 
 FROM NEW-YORK TO DETROIT. 
 
 LETTER I. 
 
 Mb any, May 3d, 18 IS. 
 
 Beau Sir, 
 
 Amid the violence of wind and rain, I arrived in this 
 «ity at b o'clock this afternoon. Though spring has made 
 some advances near New-York, here the face of nature is 
 marked with all the bleakness of winter, except snow. At 
 this season, no scenery can exhibit a more dreary aspect than 
 that of the Hudson ; naked rocks or precipices, with a few 
 leafless forest trees, are the only objects that in many places 
 meet the eye of the voyager in passing many miles upon 
 this truly singular river. While the cold damp wind 
 sweeps along the current, If ic view of the distant farm houses 
 have a solitary and even gloomy appearance. 
 
 Perhaps in no equal distance on 'earth, is the contrast be- 
 tween the smiles of summer and the frowns of winter, so 
 strong as upon the Hudson banks between New-York and 
 Albany. I travelled upon both shores of the Hudson river 
 in the summer of 1816, and visited most places of note on 
 or near its margin. 
 
 I had then occasion to make a remark I have since found 
 just ; that the arrangements of the Steam-Boats, deprive 
 passengers of the view of much of the richest scenery of 
 this interesting region. The passage of the river, through 
 the Fishkill mountains, is indeed one of the finest landscape* 
 
 B 
 
10 
 
 [let. I* 
 
 in North America, and yet is seen but by very few of those 
 who traverse through its sublime portals, and who travel 
 expressly for the purpose of beholding nature in her most 
 attractive garb. In the first instance, travelling by a land 
 conveyance and by slow stages, I had the advantage of be- 
 holding the various parts rather more in detail, than I could 
 have, had I passed by the ordinary means of the Steam-Boat. 
 As you have imposed upon me the task of relating what I 
 have seen or thought, and as you have had the kindness to 
 express more estimation for the matter than the manner, I 
 w ill give a detail of my notes, during my first voyage up the 
 Hudson. 
 
 I left the city of New-York, on the afternoon of August 
 20th, 1816 ; the weather was extremely boisterous for the 
 season ; a strong north wind impeded the progress of the 
 Steam-Boat, and as usual, I passed the Highlands in the 
 night, and landed about midnight at Newburg. 
 
 The morning of the 21st, repaid amply the fatigue of the 
 evening before, the violence of the wind had subsided, the 
 air was serene and cool ; and afforded an excellent opportu- 
 nity to review with advantage the fine landscapes in this 
 neighborhood. 
 
 The scite of Newburg is admirably adapted to produce* 
 from a variety of points, the most striking effect that water, 
 hill, dale, and mountain can give. Rising by rather abrupt 
 acclivity from the water, the houses in the town appear like 
 the steps of a pair of stairs. From a hill to the westward 
 of, and which rises above the village, the entire adjacent 
 country is spread before the eye. The prospect is on all 
 sides extremely picturesque, the fields and farm houses on 
 the east side of the Hudson, ase seen lessening into the hor- 
 izon far into Dutchess county, towards (lie borders of Con- 
 necticut. The Fishkill mountains rising into bold, though 
 not rugged prominences, and covered with trees to their 
 summits. But the passage of the Hudson river, through 
 the Highlands, is far the most pleasing part of this beauti* 
 
I.] 
 
 li 
 
 ful picture. Tlie smooth surface of the river silently ap- 
 proaching this confined opening, the projecting rocks appa- 
 rently menacing (he flitting vessels beneath, the diversified 
 groups of trees, the distant view of the hills of Putnam 
 county, and the soft white clouds exhibiting their airy forms 
 along (he clear blue heaven, forms a landscape that is equal- 
 led by few on earth* 
 
 It is obvious that the Hudson did not always find its course 
 to the Atlantic Ocean, through the Fishkill mountains. The 
 whole face of the country, north of that pass, evinces an ex- 
 posure to submersion by water. By either abrasion of a 
 cataract, or disruption by some convulsion of nature, but 
 much more probably the former, the mountain chain has 
 been broken, and the rushing waters found their way to the 
 now New- York Bay.^ 
 
 During the afternoon of Aug. fist, I crossed the riverfront 
 jNcwburg to Fishkill landing, enjoyed in the traverse, the 
 ehanging view of the narrows, and after landing, turned and 
 
 # In Dr. S. L. MitchePs excellent observations upon the Geologv 
 of North America, which are attached to Kirk and Mercein's 
 edition of Cuvier's Theory of the Earth, occur the following 
 •observations upon the Fishkill mountains. 
 
 " They are composed chiefly of granite and kneiss, abounding 
 in loose nodules and solid veins of magnetical iron ore. The 
 width of the chain may be rated at about sixteen miles. The 
 height of the most elevated peaks, have been ascertained baro- 
 metrically by Capt. Alden Partridge, of the corps of Artillerists 
 and Egineers. According to his observations, Butterhill on the 
 west side of the river, is 1529 feet above tide-water, and the new 
 Beacon 1565 feet. 
 
 " This thick and solid barrier seems in ancient days, to have 
 impeded the course of the water, and to have raised a lake high 
 enough to cover all the country to Quaker hill and the Taconick 
 mountains on the east, aud to the Shawangunk and the Catskill 
 mouutains on the west. This lake may be calculated to have ex- 
 tended to the Little Falls of the Mohawk, and to Hadley's Falls 
 on the Hudson." — Kirk Sf Merceiri's Cuvier, page 337. 
 
 A careful review of the structure of the adjoining country, 
 leaves no reasonable doubt of the correctness f»f the foregoing, 
 conclusions dra wn by this able geologist. 
 
12 
 
 HUDSON" 1UVEK. 
 
 [let. I. 
 
 beheld the two villages of Ncwburg and New-Windsor hang- 
 ing upon (he western slope of the opposite shore. I had 
 here again another opportunity of admiring the ever varying 
 scenery of this truly deiighful neighborhood. Often as I 
 have beheld with a sensation of real pleasure, the setting of 
 an unclouded sun, never before (or since) ( did I see that lu- 
 minary take his nightly leave of man, with more serene ma- 
 jesty, or amid so many objects to heighten the beauty of the 
 scene. Seated upon an elevated bank, in a grove composed 
 of spruce and cedar, I watched the departure of the king of 
 day j the slow and silent advance of darkness, at length 
 shrouded in gloom a picture, whose (chits can only be for- 
 gotten when my bosom ceases to beat. 
 
 Environed by the massy and sublime monuments reared 
 by the hand of nature, and enjoying the softened beauty of 
 such an evening, I could not repress a retrospection upon the 
 march of time ; I could not avoid reflecting that an epoch 
 did exist, when the delightful valley in which I then sat was 
 an expanse of water ; that the winding and contracting 
 gorge, through which the Hudson now flows, did not exist, 
 or was the scene of another Niagara ; I beheld the lake 
 disappear, the roar of the cataract had ceased, the enor- 
 mous rocky barriers had yielded to the impetuous flood. 
 The river now glides smooth and tranquil, in its passage 
 through this glen, dark and deep. The war of elements 
 have subsided. The mountains have apparently separated, 
 and given the waters free egress to the ocean. 
 
 In order to have ample means of reviewing this region, to 
 as much advantage as possible, I hired a man to convey me 
 in a sail boat, from Fishkill landing to West-Point ; and on 
 the morning of the 22d, passed the Narrows with a light 
 wind. A slight mist floated over the highest peaks of the 
 mountains, but below the air was clear and pleasant. Ap- 
 proaching the most confined part of the passage, the vast 
 granitic ledges seemed to raise their frowning projections to 
 ike clouds, the trees upon their summits appear like shrubs,. 
 
.LET. l.j WEST-POINT. 13 
 
 Iti the intervening vales or rather ravines, (lie fisherman and 
 woodcutter have reared (heir huts ; the curling smoke is 
 seen issuing from cabins e in bosomed amid these \riigged 
 rocks. 
 
 West-Point presented its structures perched upon a small 
 cape of level hind, but every Where surrounded hy masses 
 that seemed to mock lime itself. 
 
 I landed, and rose the winding path that led to (his ever 
 memorable spot a place that was the seeae of some of 
 
 * Whilst preparing these sheets for publication, the following 
 elegant lines appeared in the Columbian, from the pen of Dr. 
 Van Gelder, of New- York. I could not deny my readers tin- 
 pleasure of leading so fine a description of the grandeur, even 
 in ruinSj of Fort Putnam. 
 
 ON THE RUINS OF FORT PUTNAM^ WEST-POINT. 
 
 Dreary and lone as the scenes that surround thee, 
 Thy battlements rise 'mid the crags of the wild, 
 
 Yet dear are thy ruins, for brightly around thee 
 ? Twas here the lirst dawn of our Liberty smil'd. 
 
 But lonely's thy terrace — thy wails are forsaken, 
 In ruins around thy proud ramparts are low, 
 
 And never again shall thy cannon awaken 
 The echo that sleeps in the vallies below. 
 
 Silence now reigns thy dark ruins among, 
 
 Where once thrill'd the fife and the war-drum beatloud ; 
 
 Now the scream of the eaglet slow gliding along, 
 Alone sends its note from the mists of the cloud. 
 
 But where are the heroes whose home once was here, 
 When the legions of Tyranny peopled our shore — 
 
 Who here rais'd the standard to Freedom so dear, 
 And guarded their home 'mid the battle's fierce roar I 
 
 They sleep in yon vale — their rude fortress below, 
 Where darkly the shade of the cedar is spread, 
 
 And hotirse through the valley the mountain-winds blow, 
 Where lowly they rest in the sleep of the dead. 
 
 The flowers of the forest have brighten'd that spot, 
 The wild rose has scatter'd its bloom o'er that ground 
 
 Where lonely they lie — now forgetting — forgot — 
 
 Unawak'd by the mountain-storm thundering around, 
 
 B2 
 
WEST-FOIST, 
 
 [let. r< 
 
 ihe most remarkable events of our unequalled revolution* 
 It was here that Arnold's treachery was met by the stern 
 virtue of Washington ; it was near this place that Andre ex- 
 piated his folly with his life, and gained an immortal name 
 by an ignominious death. 
 
 West-Point presents but little that can interest the travel™ 
 ler, except it be the noble scenery, of its neighborhood, and 
 events of historical reminiscence. The barracks of the offi- 
 cers and cadets, with a few scattering houses belonging to 
 individuals, are all the artificial improvements worth notice 
 at this establishment. The bank is high, and very abrupt 
 from the surface of the water in the river, to the level of the 
 plain upon which the barracks and houses are built. 
 
 With considerable fatigue, I scrambled up the mountain 
 to the ruins of Fort Putnam. Silence and dilapidation now 
 reign over this once important Fortress. It would be diffi- 
 cult to conceive of a more impregnable position. Seated 
 upon an elevated mass of granite, the Fort occupied almost 
 the entire surface upon which a human foot could be set, 
 A very steep ascent, of more than 500 perpendicular feet, 
 leads from the plain of West-Point to the scite of the Fort, 
 and a deep rock bound valley, separates it from the general 
 mass of the adjacent mountains. A cistern had been hewed 
 out of the solid granite, which was full of water when I 
 visted the spot. Cannon placed upon the walls of this Fort, 
 could rake the entire surface of West-Point ; but I could 
 not perceive any serious opposition it could have presented 
 to the passage of ships of war, ascending or descending the 
 Hudson river. 
 
 The landscape from the ruined battlements of Fort Put- 
 nam, is very interesting. The Fishkill mountains seen 
 from this place, have a much more naked and rude aspect, 
 than from either New burg or Fishkill landing. Except 
 upon the opposite shore in Putnam county, but very little hu- 
 man culture enlivens the view. West-Point has itself a sol- 
 
X«ET. I.J 
 
 FORT-PUTNAM. 
 
 Hary appearance, and to (he west, nought is seen but woods, 
 and mountains, in their primitive wildness. 
 
 If seclusion from the busy haunts of men, can he of any 
 benefit to the students at West- Point, they enjoy this advan- 
 tage in its fullest extent. Isolated upon the confined cape, 
 from which the name of the place is derived, the river ou 
 one side and towering mountains on the other, an unbroken 
 silence reigns around this seminary. Looking down from 
 the broken walls of Fort Putnam, Dr. Johnson's Rasselas, 
 came strong to recollection. I could not avoid recalling to 
 imaginary life, the men who once acted on this little but re- 
 markable theatre. I felt a sentiment of awe, amid this now 
 lonely waste, on recalling to mind that here once depended 
 the fate of a new born nation. Even the fallen fragments 
 of stone which once composed part of its buttresses, inspi- 
 red me with a feeling of respect. Washington, Greene, 
 Putnam, Andre, and Arnold, are no more ; their names 
 have now taken their respective stations in history. The 
 opinion of mankind is formed upon the merits of the three 
 former, and the shame of the two latter. It is now as far 
 beyond the reach of calumny, to tarnish fh$ unfading re- 
 nown of a Washington, a Greene, or a Putnam, as it would 
 be for the human hand to level to common earth the enor- 
 mous masses of the Fishkill mountains. 
 
 With slow steps I descended from the grey remains of this 
 venerable pile, and cast a frequent and repeated retiring look 
 towards its mouldering turrets. The shades of evening were 
 setting in, the darkened sides of the distant mountains, seem- 
 ed to mark a sympathetic gloom with that which hung over 
 the deserted Fortress. The busy hum of the students it* 
 their evening walks, produced an interesting contrast with 
 the repose in which rested the surrounding scenery. Such 
 was the events, and the reflection of my day's visit to West- 
 Point. 
 
±6 
 
 [let. f. 
 
 On (lie morning of the 23d, I again passed with enereased 
 admiration the Highlands, and refurned to Fishkill landing. 
 Jn the afternoon I went to visit the iinc Factory of Mate- 
 owan.# owned by Messrs. Sehcnek'S. 
 
 The scenery near Maieowan is wild, picturesque, and 
 pleasing. Here I first witnessed the effect, produced upois 
 the smaller streams which flow into the Hudson river, from 
 ihe high table land from which their sources are derived, 
 Flowing over a surface, elevated many hundred feet above 
 tide water in the Hudson, the tributary waters of that river 
 all enter by cataracts of more or less elevation. Fishkill, 
 (Mateowan) commences its fall some distance above Messrs, 
 ScheneVs factory, giving any desirable facility to the appli- 
 cation of its volume, in the propulsion of machinery. This 
 characteristic is however, general to almost all streams that 
 fall into the Hudson from either bank, and gives to the in- 
 habitants near the borders of that river, a facility in the con- 
 struction of labour-saving machinery, possessed cn so large 
 a scale in few, if any other parts of the earth. 
 
 If it was possible for American industry to contend, in the 
 present order of things, successfully against European mo- 
 no-jolv, the banks of the Hudson could become two extend- 
 efl lines of manufacturing establishments ; but our native 
 exertions wither in the presence of foreign commerce and 
 perverted taste. Nature is slowly asserting her rights m 
 opposition to absurdly continued custom. If habit had made 
 us familiar with sending our wheat, to be converted into 
 ilour in English mills, we would now consider bread made 
 from this native grain and foreign machinery, in the same 
 favourable degree of preference, we now give to muslins 
 made in Europe, from Carolina and Georgia cotton. 
 
 9 Mateowan is the Indian name of Fishkill. No nations, per- 
 haps that ever existed, gave more sonorous names to places, than 
 the native savages of North America. It is much to be regretted 
 that their nomenclature had not been more generally preserved* 
 
LET. I.j TIMBER 17 
 
 Above Fishkil! the country assumes a hilly and rocky, 
 but not mountainous aspect. The strata are inclined m 
 nearly parallel direction to the Catskii! mountains. Some 
 limestone occurs. The general strtietu^c of the hills is, 
 however, rnica slate. The soil does not exhibit a fertile ap 
 pearanee in genera!, though Dutchess county has been fam- 
 ed tor its productive crops. This character I believe just 
 as respects orchards and meadows. Too inueh of the land 
 Is cleared. A- scarcity of timber strikes the eye of f \u 
 traveller at every step, and the trees which exist I;, 
 stinted appearance. 5 ^ 
 
 • The following extract demonstrates that improvident waste 
 of timber, and neglect to supply daily cpasuroption, js not eon- 
 lined to Dutchess county. Error, however, gains nothing but 
 notoriety from its extent. 
 
 64 The Duke of Athol is now enjoying the benefit which pro- 
 vident ancestors sometimes confer upon their heirs. His Grace's 
 estates have been hitherto considered as rather extensive, than 
 productive ; but his forests have now attained to such a growth, 
 that, we understand, he will be able to cut timber to the amount 
 of 20,0001. a year, we may say almost in perpetuity, as he lias 
 continued the practice of his noble father, and planted millions 
 of trees annually." 
 
 In reading the above article, we could not suppress a feel- 
 ing of rep ret at the evident contrast presented in* the cond uct 
 of the Duke of AthoPs 44 provident ancestor," to the improvi- 
 dence of landholders generally in this country. The decrease 
 of timber for building, fuel, &c. is already a great inconvenience, 
 and is every day becoming more serious in the prospects growing 
 out of it. The evil is not so much in the use or consumption of 
 the timber, (although that may be unnecessarily extravagant) but 
 in the utter neglect which appears every where to prevail, of re- 
 pairing the devastation, by planting new trees, and taking care 
 of the young growth. Observation has convinced us, that in no 
 part of the country is its neglect more apparent, than in the low- 
 er parts of Delaware, and the adjacent parts of Maryland. We 
 mention this district of country particularly, because in travelling 
 over it, (we allude especially to the country called the Levels, 
 and on the Bohemia, and Sassafras rivers,) we were struck with 
 its fine appearance, in soil, its fine streams, and its easy access U* 
 market. Jt is probable to this last circumstance that the evil 
 complained of may in some part, be attributed \ the high price 
 
AGIUCtLTURE. 
 
 Ii\ all the extent of settled country within the United 
 States, two epochs have preceded each other in the progress 
 of agriculture. In the first epoch, immense extent of land 
 is cleared of the timber, and the soil rather tortured than 
 cultivated. This lasts until the impoverished fields and ruin- 
 ed forests, oblige the farmers to commence the second epoch. 
 They now come to the point from which they ought to have 
 set out. They now cultivate a more limited extent, but tha£ 
 extent by manure and a careful routine of crops, becomes 
 
 of timber at Baltimore having induced the proprietors or tenants 
 to apply the axe with so devastating a hand, that the country is 
 almost bare of timber, and no efforts seem to have been adopted 
 to supply the waste. The consequence of this destructive habit is, 
 that the best land in the peninsula, and as good as any in the coun- 
 try, with all its advantages from fine navigable streams will not 
 sell for mare than 15, 20, or 25 dollars per acre, in addition to 
 the inconvenience arising from a deficiency of fuel, and timber 
 for building. It may be said, that the tenures by which real pro- 
 perty is held in this country, and its frequent circulation from 
 fraud to hand, present an obstacle to any plans of permanent im- 
 provement, that farmers do not like to expend money, the pro- 
 fits of which are to be enjoyed by posterity. 
 
 We would regret to see such an objection seriously urged, in- 
 volving as it does a censure upon the freedom of our institutions, 
 which are intimately connected with the proper circulation and 
 equalization of real property. We suggest the subject to the 
 agricultural society of this county, as a proper one for their con- 
 sideration, if they will encourage the planting of forest trees, and 
 support it with their examples, it will have a good effect. The 
 price of land will be undoubtedly increased, and the interests of 
 agriculture advanced. # 
 
 There is one fact of which the society must be aware ; that 
 in this country and the peninsula generally, it is the custom with 
 farmers to sow or cultivate a much greater quantity of land than 
 they can properly manage ; a consequence of which is that a 
 great deal of good land is thrown away ; producing about one 
 third or one fourth of what it would if properly manured and at- 
 tended to. If, therefore, many of our farmers would limit'their 
 industry to the cultivation of one half or one third of their usual 
 quantity of laud, they would economize their labour greatly, cul- 
 tivate their lands much better, produce a greater quantity of grain 
 and grass, and the surplus would remain for the propagation of 
 ti m b e r . ' ? — Bela wet re TFatchma n . 
 
£,ET. I.J DUTCnESS C0LNTY* 19 
 
 annually more and more productive. It would no doubt 
 have resulted, from the great labour and expense of clear- 
 ing land, that farmers would have commenced by making 
 the best use of small enclosures, if agriculture had been un- 
 derstood scientifically. That was not formerly the case any 
 where in the United States, and now only in few places. It 
 is pleasing to see even the germ of a better system. Agri- 
 culture is improving ; our citizens begin to learn that their 
 fields may be made more profitable, and less expensive. 
 
 Dutchess county is about 15 miles long north and south, 
 and twenty-five miles in breadth east and west, from Con- 
 necticut line to the Hudson river. This county at present, ex™ 
 tends over an area of very nearly 800 square miles. Dutch- 
 ess was formerly more extensive, the townships south of the 
 Fishkill mountains, Philipstown, Kent, Paterson, Southeast, 
 and Carmel, were in the Legislative session of 1812 erected 
 into a separate county, and named Putnam. By the census 
 of 1810, the entire county ot Dutchess, possessed a popula- 
 tion of 51,412, but of this amount the now county of Put- 
 nam contained 8,182 persons ; leaving in Dutchess a nvtt 
 amount of 42,930. This divided by 800, yields 53, 6 + to the 
 square mile, a very thin population ; yet the county is per- 
 haps more than two thirds cleared of wood ; and if so, al- 
 lowing the population to be now 60 to the square mile, Mould 
 average more than seven acres of open land to each individ- 
 ual. I am well convinced this calculation is by no means 
 overrated near the Hudson, or indeed in any part of the 
 county. The great distances between the houses, and the 
 wide sweep of the fields and meadows, give the country a 
 lonely appearance. 
 
 Eight miles above Fishkill, Wappinger's creek falls into 
 the Hudson. The latter is a much more considerable 
 stream than the former, but are similar in tumbling over el- 
 evated ledges of rock, previous to joining the Hudson.— ~ 
 Where the road passes Wappinger's creek, some mills and 
 other machinery have been erected. The road crosses 'the 
 
20 WAPI'INUEK's CUEEXv. [let. j„ 
 
 creek by a substantial wooden br idge, over nearly the mid- 
 dle of the fall. The volume of water was considerable, even 
 when I passed it, though a long dearth had preceded my 
 journey. The white surge dashing impetuously over the 
 shelving rocks, and amongst the wheels of the different wa- 
 ter works, produced a fine effect. This place affords a picas 
 ing variety on this road. 
 
 Above Wappinger's creek, the face Of the country be- 
 comes more uniform, and the soil assumes ulcss rude aspect 
 than between the creek and the now receding Highlands. 
 
 Many points of rising ground, present very extensive and 
 beautiful landscape views. The Highland, Shawangunk, and 
 Catskiil mountains, are alternately and often all visible from 
 the same place. The Hudson can sometimes be seen glitter- 
 ing low In the deep vale, through which it flows. Here in 
 many places, appear the vestiges of the ancient lake, which 
 filled the region above the Highlands. Independent of ihe 
 mountains, the hills which once bounded this sheet of water, 
 are distinctly discernible to the east and west. These hills 
 are about 30 miles separate, the intermediate space was the 
 breadth of the lake, giving it, though on a larger scale, the 
 general characteristic of the yet existing lakes Champlaia 
 and George. 
 
 Viewing a map of Orange, Ulster and Dutchess counties, 
 a singular fact in the geology of the region they occupy, ob- 
 trudes itself to observation. The w ater courses on the west 
 side of the Hudson, in Orange and Ulster, flow considerably 
 north of east, and enter that river very obliquely. This is 
 the ease with the streams of Wallkill, Rondout, and Esopus. 
 In Dutchess, Fi&hki!!, Wappinger's, and other creeks, run 
 south of east, in very nearly parallel courses, but contrary 
 directions to those which enter by the opposite bank. 
 
 The elevated table land from which all these streams de- 
 rive their sources, lies apparently nearly on a general level, 
 and forms a valley, which crosses the Hudson in the direc 
 lion of the water courses. Are we not justifiable in conch?- 
 
ZET. I.J 
 
 POUGHKEEPSIE. 
 
 21 
 
 ding that (his was once the course of the lake discharge ? 
 By what process of nature did (lie Hudson scoop its present 
 channel, so far beneath the bottom of this former inland 
 sea, so far even beneath the level of the ocean, and through 
 a continuous mass of rock ? If you can answer this query, 
 if you can explain this phenomenon, you will do me and the 
 worlds favor. I am unable to even conjecture the process 
 of (his mighty, this unequalled work, 
 
 Poughkeepsie, the seat of justice for Dutchess county, 
 stands upon the table land of the Hudson, sixteen miles from 
 Fishkill. 1 arrived here in the afternoon of the 25th Aug. 
 and on the morning of the 26th, took an extensive ramble 
 over its streets and environs. The town is in the form of a 
 cross, the two principal streets crossing each other nearly 
 at right angles. The houses are scattered, and the inter- 
 vening spaces planted with trees. A road leads down a long, 
 steep, and in many places very abrupt hill, f pom Poughkeep- 
 sie to the? landing, on the Hudson river. This circumstance 
 subjects the inhabitants to great inconvenience. The oppo- 
 site shore is broken, rocky, barren and desolate. The town 
 contains at present about 2000 inhabitants. The houses have 
 a decent plainness in their exterior, a character they have no 
 doubt received from the moral taste of the inhabitants. I 
 have visited few places, where a more mild, conciliating de- 
 portment was observed to the stranger. 
 
 Some manufactures are established in Poughkeepsie ; the 
 principal of which, is that of Messrs. Booth's woollen cloth 
 manufactory. Some very beautiful and very excellent cloth 
 has been made at this establishment. It is now contending 
 like all similar works in the United States, with high wages, 
 enhanced price of raw material, European competition, and 
 long established public prejudice in favor of foreign produc- 
 tions. 
 
 Except the inconsistency of their opinions and conduct, 
 nothing can be more idle, than the expressions you may now 
 hear in every conversation in our country, upon domestic 
 
jPOVGUKEEPSIE. 
 
 manufactured goods of any kind. " Encourage theframcrs 
 « of our own products. I prefer to see my neighbors dres- 
 « scd in home made cloth. The day we trust is not far dis 
 " tant when we can put European nations at defiance. Our 
 
 necessities will be supplied at home." A thousand such 
 declamations may be heard in every assembly of people, and 
 in many instances, not one yard of home made clothing 
 coidd be found upon the whole company. 
 
 This is not, however, the only instance, where theory and 
 practice are at variance in the affairs of mankind. 
 
 Stepping into a Bookstore in Poughkeepsie, I was led to 
 make a reflection I have often made before. Bookstores 
 afford, particularly in small villages and country places, the 
 best data, from which can be calculated the state of public 
 literary improvement. Booksellers, like other merchants* 
 are regulated in their importations by the taste of their cus- 
 tomers. 
 
 In large cities, where schools, colleges, and other estab- 
 lishments for the promotion of general instruction, exist on 
 a large scale, almost all kinds of books are found in Book- 
 stores ; but in remote country villages few books are offer- 
 ed for sale, except those of daily demand. 
 
 After school books, the most common are religious tracts 
 of different kinds, published for the use of the various sects 
 which inhabit the country ; these, with a few of the most 
 popular novels, form the mass of the volumes upon the 
 shelves of the village bookseller. 
 
 Works on general science arc rare, and even treatises upon 
 political economy, '(except pamphlets upon daily occurren- 
 ces, mostly personal) arc not often seen beyond the limits of 
 our large commercial cities. 
 
 In tSie United Slates, the most useful of all human read- 
 ing, history, is neglected. The most prominent events of 
 their own country, are known to but comparatively few of 
 our citizens. British history has shared the most attention 
 from our readers, but even that heterogeneous and conflicting 
 
JfiET. I.] 
 
 RHINE BECK. 
 
 ±3 
 
 subject, they generally but superficially understand. Though 
 it may bo doubted whether the reading of history, tends to 
 produce all the beneficial results, usually expected to flow 
 from that species of literature ; yet it is in history alone, 
 that the treasured experience of our race is recorded. It is 
 true that lessons of experience, when not taught by physi- 
 cal suffering, are seldom very profoundly remembered, or 
 correctly acted upon. It is also (rue, that though the im- 
 pressions made upon our minds by the virtue or crimes, the 
 wisdom or folly of others, are slight and transient, in a ratio 
 of distance from the scenes of our own personal cares ; yet 
 salutary impressions are made, and liberal opinions contract- 
 ed, from reading the events of nations that exist no more, as 
 well as from those which concern the most remote people 
 upon our planet. 
 
 August 27th, I left Poughkeepsie early in the morning ; 
 a shower in the preceding night had given freshness to the 
 air. Proceeding along the road towards Rhinebeek, I found 
 the country extremely pleasant. A turnpike road has been 
 made from Poughkeepsie 11 miles ; the surface of the 
 ground uneven rather than hilly. A few miles from Pough- 
 keepsie the table land becomes more fiat, and in some places 
 so much so, as to resemble the bottom of a large river. 
 Rhinebeek stands upon one of those elevated plains, is built 
 in the Dutch taste ; all the houses have a comfortable, and 
 a few an elegant exterior ; they are interspersed with orch- 
 ards, meadows, grain fields and gardens. To me, no object 
 is more satisfactory than these scattered villages, w here ev- 
 ery species of cultivation seem blended. In large cities, the 
 great field and rich mead are banished, to make w ay for the 
 various objects of luxury and commerce ; but in these rural 
 villages, enough remains of rude nature toreeal the mind to 
 the ages of primitive simplicity, whilst enough is created by 
 art to gratify the wants of civilized man. 
 
 In ascending towards the north from the Highlands, along 
 the elevated plains of the Hudson, as the Fishkill mountains 
 
KINGSTON. 
 
 [let. li' 
 
 are depressed by recession, those of Calskill rise from ap- 
 proach. The latter chaia presents a hold and imposing 
 front from Rhineheek. Rising in majesty their blue tops, 
 and gradually sloping sides, are peculiarly pleasing to the 
 eye, whilst their pyriaiidaj form evince a duration, commen- 
 surate with time itself. The village of Rhineheek stands 
 near two miles from the margin of the Hudson, with, as usu- 
 al, a high rocky intervening hank. From Rhineheek vil- 
 lage the ground falls rapidly. When the river is approach- 
 ed, a wild and picturesque landscape opens ; the west hank 
 of the Hudson is rugged and extremely broken ; the Cats- 
 kill mountains rise upon the background, and terminate with 
 their rounded cones the distant view. The road from 
 Rhineheek ferry, winds up the western steeps of the Hud- 
 son, amid broken fragments of rock. The eminences are 
 clothed with pine, cedar and oak ; evey object announces 
 sterility. Nothing is seen, that can give the slightest anti- 
 cipation of the fertile and beautiful valley of Esopus, into 
 which* a ride of three miles from the Hudson river carries 
 the traveller. 
 
 I do not remember to have ever enjoyed a more agreeable 
 surprize, or to have seen a transition more rapid, than in 
 passing from the sterile and shapeless summits of the Hud- 
 son bilk, to the fine and extended plain, upon which stands 
 the romantic village of Esopus or Kingston. This little, but 
 interesting town, recals to mind some memorable events of 
 the revolutionary war. Its inhabitants were amongst the 
 first and most zealous opposers of British aggression, in the 
 then colony of New- York, and of course marked for ven- 
 geance by the officers of the crown, who commanded on 
 the New-York station. In the summer of 1777, while Gen. 
 Burgoync was penetrating from the north towards Albany, 
 a British squadron ascended the Hudson river from New- 
 Y r ork, and landed a body of troops near the month of the 
 Wallkill, who marched to, and burnt the defenceless village 
 oF Kingston. 
 
JLET. I.j 
 
 Kingston*. 
 
 The inhabitants had but a few moments* information of 
 the approach of their enemy, before their actual arrival. 
 A tumultuous flight ensued, and before quitting the view of 
 their dwellings, the smoke of the fire that devoured them 
 ascended to heaven. The consequence of this act of blind 
 rage, was just what commoif senie would have expected ; a 
 more inveterate opposition to the British government. To 
 feelings of revolutionary enthusiasm, was added personal 
 resentment. Some of the stone walls still remain, to attest 
 the destructive scene. Most of the houses then burned, 
 have long since been repaired or re-built ; but a few stand 
 untouched ; their mouldering remains, force (lie imagination 
 to retrace thejapse of thirty-nine years, and amid the smok- 
 ing ruins of their once happy homes, behold the mournful 
 visages of the returning inhabitants, behold them turning 
 an eye of vengeance after the destroyers of their property. 
 An inscription upon the end of the village church, records 
 this deed of barbarism, this day of mourning, the 14th of 
 October, 1777. The hour of vengeance was indeed near ; 
 three days after, Burgoync and his army surrendered pris- 
 oners of war at Saratoga. The pride of the spoiler was 
 turned to defeat, modification and disgrace. 
 
 Time and industry have here effaced tl\e ravages of war. 
 Few, if any villages in theUnited States, present at this mo- 
 ment, an air of more domestic comfort, plenty and ease, 
 than does Kingston. The houses are scattered, and gener- 
 ally built after the old Dutch taste, low, with few windows, 
 and those small. Some more modern dwellings, are excep- 
 tions to the common mode, being constructed with an ele- 
 gance and convenience equal to the houses of any of our 
 country towns. 
 
 Kingston stands upon an elevated and extensive plain, be- 
 tween the Rondout and Esopus creeks. Confining the view 
 to the site of the town and adjacent country, the traveller 
 would suppose himself on the alluvion of a river. He is so 
 in fact, the plain is a complete accretion, formed by the an- 
 
 B 
 
KINGSTON. 
 
 [LET, I. 
 
 cient slate of the country, and by the neighboring streams. 
 The soil is sandy, but extremely fertile and well cultivated ; 
 the meadows and orchards are numerous and excellent; I 
 had no means to ascertain with precision, the elevation of 
 the Kingston plain above the level of tide water in the Hud- 
 son, but carefully examhyng 4he ground, along which the 
 intervening road winds, should be led to believe that the dif- 
 ference of level, must exceed three hundred feet. Though 
 16 miles distant, the'Catskill mountains, from their eleva- 
 tion, seem to be much nearer, and give to Kingston an ap- 
 pearance of lying low, though standing upon ground so 
 much above the surface of Hudson river. 
 
 In making the tour of this part of the Uryted States, no 
 traveller ought to pass without visiting Kingston, and every 
 stranger will be pleased with the soft beauty of its scenery, 
 with its retired situation, and with the plain but affable man- 
 ners of its inhabitants. 
 
 August 29ih, I left Kingston, and in the evening of the 
 same day arrived in Hudson. It is along this part of the 
 Hudson, that the Catskill mountains can be seen to most 
 advantage. Their august cones seem almost to rise from 
 the river though eight or ten miles distant.^ 
 
 * The following statement of the heights of mountains on the 
 Hudson river, were calculated by Capt. Partridge, and are deem- 
 ed correct. 
 
 Anthony's Nose, 
 Bare Mount, 
 Crow's Nest, 
 Butter Hill, 
 New Beacon, 
 Fort Putnam, 
 
 Round Top, 
 
 Neversink Heights,- 282 feet, 
 
 State']] Island, - - - - - 307 feet, 
 
 Hempstead Harbour Hill, - 319 feet. 
 
 [JWwbUrg Toliticcd Inde#.~) 
 
 Highlands. 
 
 
 
 935 feet, 
 
 Sugar Loaf, 
 
 866 feet, 
 
 1350 feet, 
 
 Bull Hill, 
 
 1484 
 
 feet, 
 
 1418 feet, 
 
 Break Neck, 
 
 1187 
 
 feet, 
 
 1529 feet, 
 
 Old Beacon, 
 
 1471 
 
 feet, 
 
 1535 feet, 
 
 W. Point Plain, 
 
 188 
 
 feet. 
 
 598 feet, 
 
 
 
 
 Catskill Mountains. 
 
 
 
 3105 feet, 
 
 High Peak, 
 
 3019 
 
 feet 
 
 Below New-York. 
 
 
 
LET. I.J 
 
 €ITY OF HUDSON". 
 
 •27 
 
 Concealed by the peninsula, between the Hudson and 
 Catskill creek, but a small part of the town of Cat ski 11 can 
 be seen from the river. As I desired to see all the towns 
 near the margin of the Hudson, I determined to return to 
 Catskill, before ascending to the north of the town of Hud- 
 son* 
 
 This latter village has a prosperous appearance ; Us site 
 is the most favorable to connect the adjacent country to the 
 liver, of any town on the Hudson, between New-York and 
 Troy. The situation of Hudson is pleasant, rising first by 
 a steep bank of 50 or GO feet, and thence gradually from 
 the bank. That part of the town which approaches the wa- 
 ter, stands upon a peninsula projecting considerably into the 
 river, and affording a very fine view both to the north and 
 south, particularly the former. On the opposite shore 
 staiids the village of Athens, in Greene county. The latter 
 town rises like Newburg, though less abrupt from the water 
 edge ; every house and the adjacent farms can be seen at one 
 view, from the bank of the Hudson. Athens is small, and 
 no great prospect exists of any augmentation of conse- 
 queuee. The Schoharie turnpike road leaves the Hudson 
 river at Athens, and fallowing the valley of Catskill along 
 its north side, penetrates the interior of New-York, by 
 winding round the Catskill mountains. The Susquehanna 
 turnpike road leaves the Hudson at the town of Catskill, and 
 following the south side of the creek of thai name, runs 
 
 When I passed the same part of the Hudson' on my last tour, 
 (May 3d, l?>i8,) the Catskill mountains were coVered with snow, 
 Apparently almost to their base. This latter circumstance, was 
 however, no douht a deception in vision, as many of the hills 
 near the Hudson bank, are five or six hundred feet high, and the 
 snow had now disappeared from their summits. The whole 
 country had, however, the dreary marks of winter. Scarce a 
 new born leaf announced the approach of spring. ' The air was 
 cold, chilly, and moist. The mountains of BerKshjrC, in Massa- 
 chusetts, and the Green mountains in Vermont, appeared far oh 
 the JS T . E. horizon, also white with snow. 
 
 % 
 
KElGllBORiAG SCESERl*. 
 
 liET. f< 
 
 •nearly parallel (o the Schoharie road, and like it leads 
 through Greene county, into the central parts xif the state. 
 These roads render Hudson a thoroughfare from the 
 New England states, for emigrants passing to the north part 
 of Pennsylvania, and the contiguous part of New-York. 
 
 A ridge of land, rocky, precipitous, and generally very 
 barren, follows both hanks of the Hudson river, occasionally 
 interrupted. Behind these ridges and parallel to them, lies 
 two broken valleys of more or less width. All the towns 
 upon this singular river, are placed upon the interruptions 
 of these ridges. Hudson is a remarkable example. I have 
 already noticed the peninsula, which forms the port of Hud- 
 son. This peninsula is bounded on the north by a bay, ter- 
 minated by clay bluffs, which are yielding to the action off 
 the water ; and on the south extends another bay, which 
 gradually shallows, and ends in a deep morass. South of 
 this swamp rises a very high hill, the north abutment of one 
 of the ridges I have already noticed. Behind the town of 
 Hudson, to the eastward, the ground rises into considerable 
 elevation, overlooking from its summit a vast expanse of 
 country, including the towns of Hudson and Athens ; the 
 l iver for many miles ; its variegatad shores, and perhaps 
 the best prospect that exists of the Catskill mountains. To 
 point out the charming views included in this elegant pic- 
 ture, w ould be to describe every hill, dale and slope within 
 its limits. In every direction to which the eye can be turn- 
 ed, a new and elegant landscape opens, and presents its 
 beauties, its character of distinctive attraction, and an out- 
 line that renders it a little whole in itself. 
 
 It may indeed be considered as peculiar to the Hudson 
 scenery, that almost all the variety that the face of the earth 
 can afford, is often condensed into a compass of very limited 
 extent. Environed by cliffs, crowned with dwarf oak, pine 
 and cedar, the traveller often finds a projecting bank, some- 
 times rising bold, rude and rocky ; at others, swelling above 
 the wave in rounded prominences. Upon such banks, are 
 
JCET. I.] 
 
 XfilGilBOHIXQ SCEXETIT, 
 
 built many of the finest country seats in the United States ; 
 and if a variegated country can give gratification to refined 
 taste, there are few places on earth where summer can be 
 enjoyed with more delight. In passing the Hudson, it is in 
 the highest degree pleasing, to view those edifices amid so 
 many natural contrasts. From the city of New-York this 
 elegant variety greets the voyager, above the highlands it 
 becomes more frequent and striking, and in no extent of the 
 Hudson river, does its peculiar traits arrest attention with 
 more force, than near the town of Hudson. The second day 
 after my arrival in the neighborhood, I traversed the road 
 from Hudson to Columbiaville, near the month of Kinder- 
 hook. The road follows the dividing ridge between the eas- 
 tern branch of Kindcrhook creek and the Hudson river, and 
 in many places, commands very extensive views of the sur- 
 rounding country. 
 
 At one glance is often seen the majestic Hudson, its ever 
 varied banks, the fleeting sail, apparently mingling with the 
 farm houses, and above and beyond this soft picture of peace- 
 ful industry, rises the blue ridges of the distant mountains. 
 
 Near the mouth of Kindcrhook, commences a very striking 
 change in the physiognomy of the banks of the Hudson ; the 
 hills are less abrupt, and the bottoms are now more extensive 
 than farther south. The soil presents no very striking dif- 
 ference from that found in the interval between this place and 
 the Highlands ; but the general aspect of the country as- 
 sumes a new character. Though still broken, the face of 
 the country on both banks, is more uniform than the surface 
 of either Dutchess, Orange, or Greene counties. 
 
 Kindcrhook Creek is formed from two branches, the Cla- 
 verack, and the Kinderhook properly so called. The for- 
 mer rises in the township of Hillsdale in Columbia county, 
 and running first east, gradually turns south and south-west, 
 and approaching within three or four miles of that river, fin- 
 ally assumes a northern course, forming in all its course, a 
 semi-ellipse of about thirty miles in length. Kinderhook 
 
 1)2 
 
RIXDEIUIOOK CREEK, 
 
 [LET. I. 
 
 ibises in the township of Berlin, in Rensselaer county, and 
 pursuing a course south or south-cast, in very nearly an op- 
 posite direction, joins the Claveraek about one mile and a 
 half from the Hudson ; the united stream unites with that 
 river, after being precipitated over considerable ledges of 
 transition slate. The curious structure of this country ap- 
 pears from the circumstance, that the Jansens or Ancram 
 creek, rising also in Hillsdale, winds round the Claveraek, at 
 seven or eight miles distance from the latter stream. The 
 courses of, indeed, nearly all the watercourses in this neigh- 
 bourhood, have a correspondence, approaching the regulari- 
 ty of ar< i their position must have been determined by 
 some general cause, some operation of nature, common to a 
 considerable extent of country. It preserves, however, so 
 much of the general character of the Hudson hanks, as to 
 present a more broken surface near, than at a distance from 
 that river. 
 
 Where the road from Hudson to Albany crosses Kinder- 
 Look creek, a line wooden bridge was erected a few years 
 past. Within a few paces below the bridge, on the south side 
 of the creek, the Messrs. Jenkins' of Hudson, have a fine 
 merchant mill, and directly opposite the mill, stands a large 
 cotton factory. During the last war a little village rose 
 around this factory, inhabited by weavers, spinners and oth- 
 er workmen. It is now languishing like other similar es- 
 tablishments, aiid from like causes. 
 
 The creek rolls over different ledges of rock, under and 
 above the bridge, which produces the fall of water necessary 
 to propel the machinery below. The tide flows up to the 
 mill and factory. The adjacent country is hilly, particular- 
 ly south of the creek. The works lie so low that the trav- 
 eller is within a few paces before he can perceive their posi- 
 tion ; and when viewing them from the south bank, cannot 
 but be pleased with the rural features of the place. From 
 the eminence above the mill, can be seen the fine farm and 
 seat of Mr. Robert Livingston, upon the 'point of land be- 
 
LET. I.] 
 
 COLUMBIAViLLE. 
 
 31 
 
 tween (he mouth of Kinderhook creek and Hudson river, the 
 opposite shores rising gently from the water, and retiring 
 far into the distant landscape, in the township of Coxackie. 
 Turning the view a little more to the south, rises the highest 
 jieaks of Catskill mountains, in the township of Windham. 
 
 The south side of the little bay, if^de by Kinderhook 
 creek, is steep and in many places precipitous, clothed with 
 timber and underwood, its scenery is romantic and solitary; 
 I had the good fortune to be kindly and hospitably treated, 
 by Mr. Marks Barker and his family, who reside near this 
 seductive spot. In company with those innocent and tvh \in]y 
 people, and the sweet companion of my life and of this 
 journey, I traversed those wilds. Within a few paces of the 
 cultivated farm, or « busy mill," we might have imagined 
 ourselves transported to the abodes of primeval silence ; 
 we could have conceived ourselves carried back to the primi- 
 tive ages, when cultivation had neither disfigured or adorn- 
 ed the face of the earth. Many of the dells, dark and deep, 
 overshadowed with oaks, pine, cedar and maple, seemed to 
 have never before been visited by human beings ; tiie turn 
 of a step dispelled this illusion, by disclosing the gay aspect 
 of the garden, orchard, field and meadow. 1 had before 
 ranged over many of the most uncultivated and unvisited 
 parts of this continent. I had often seen the rapid change, 
 from the savage waste to the highly decorated abode of civ- 
 ilized man, but I do not remember to have been, ever be- 
 fore, so strongly impressed with the contrast. The scenes 
 were before me in all their majesty. The whole contour, 
 shading, and parts of one of the most finely blended pictures 
 in nature, was open to view. It was a day I can only forget 
 when I cease to exist. It was enjoyed amid objects that 
 now retain in my mind all their force of recollected interest. 
 And it is a spot that the traveller may again, and again re- 
 visit, and never cease to admire. 
 
 August 30th, with great reluctance I left Columbiavilie ; 
 the name given to the little establishment on Kinderhook, 
 
CATSK1LX 
 
 [LET. I. 
 
 and relumed through Hudson and Athens,- to Catskill. 
 Like Columbiavillc, Catskill stands upon the bay or mouth 
 of a large creek, surrounded, overshadowed and almost con- 
 cealed by hills. The latter town is apparently flourishing 
 and commercial, having a rich and well cultivated country 
 along Catskiil, to support its prosperity. It was with pain I 
 was obliged, from the nature of my private concerns, to 
 forego the pleasure of visiting the vicinity of Catskill town- 
 From the alpine nature of part of this region, from the 
 beauty and variety of aspect it presented to my eye, when 
 seen from the Hudson hills, and from all the descriptions of 
 its features, that I have seen, I am confident I lost much, its 
 not being able to range over its plains and mountains. There 
 is no doubt, but tha*t this is one of the most interesting 
 tracts in the United States, and perhaps the one where the 
 strongest contrasts can be found in the shortest space. All 
 the variety of soil, and formation from primitive granite to 
 the most recent alluvion, can be examined here in less than 
 one day. 
 
 A good statistical and geological description of Greene 
 county, would present many of the noblest features of the 
 United States to view. The mouth of Catskill creek lies- 
 level with the Atlantic tides, and the most elevated of th© 
 Catsbergs. in Windham, rises to about 3500 feet. Between 
 these extremes, how immense the variety of vegetable pro- 
 duction ; perhaps the mineral kingdom would not be less 
 productive, if as accessible to human research. 
 
 In this region, the traveller now finds some scenes of sub- 
 lime interest. « The round-top, is found to be elevated 
 « 3655 feet above the level of the river j the high-peak 
 ** 3\87. These summits are in Windham, Greene county, 
 " about 20 miles west of Hudson, and in full view from that 
 ** city. A turnpike road which crosses this range ofmoun- 
 « tains, near these summits, winds up until it reaches the 
 " astonishing altitude of 2274 feet j and from this spot the 
 
LET. I.] 
 
 KATERSKILL, 
 
 « view is inexpressibly grand."* Tliis is the highest road 
 in the United States, exceeding by far in elevation any of 
 the passes of the Allegany chain, south of this place. 
 
 In this alpine region, exists also, one of the most interest- 
 ing cataracts in North America ; not from the mass of wa- 
 ter, but from the perpendicular descent of the stream, and 
 peculiar structure of the adjacent country. It is a curiosi- 
 ty but little known beyond the neighborhood where it exists* 
 though within a very short distance of the mountain road I 
 have already noticed. " The high fall of the Katerskill is 
 ** about half a mile from this road, near the summit of tho 
 " mountain and twelve miles from Catskill. The stream 
 '< arises from two small ponds, one quarter of a mile apart* 
 «« and runs gently two miles, where it breaks over a rocky 
 " precipice of 310 feet, perpendicular height."! The 
 mountains are inhabited to their summits, enabling travel- 
 lers who visit them, to find accommodation in their most ele - 
 vated valleys. 
 
 My time spent in the vicinity of Catskill, was too short 
 to gratify my own curiosity, or to collect extensive informa- 
 tion on local subjects. The general outline was all I could 
 examine, and even that imperfectly. I saw enough to ex- 
 cite a regret, I can only eradicate by returning under cir- 
 cumstances, which will enable me to remain long enough to 
 ascend the highest mountain, and range the lowest valley in 
 this diversified tract. 
 
 September 4th, I set out from Hudson for Albany. A- 
 bove the village of Columbiaville, the road follows the val- 
 ley of the Kinderhook creek. The country in many places 
 level ; so much so, as to remind me often of even Louisiana, 
 This recollection was, however, only momentary j high 
 rocky hills appearing to the eastward at short intervals. 
 The flourishing village of Kinderhook, stands upon the allu- 
 
 * Spafford's Gazetteer., page 9. 
 f Spafjford's Gazetteer, page 330, 
 
KINDERHOOK* 
 
 [LET. I. 
 
 vial banks of Hie creek of the same name, twelve miles 
 above Hudson. Above Kinderhook village, commences a 
 body of level land, covered in its native slate with pine 
 timber. This tract affords a very remarkable instance of the 
 revolutions, to which the price of landed property is subject. 
 I was informed on the spot, that about thirty years ago, this 
 pine land was considered of so little value, as to render its 
 possession onerous to the proprietor. Now, some of the 
 most valuable farms in the two counties of Columbia and 
 Rensselaer, arc formed upon its surface. To my eye, who 
 had travelled over so many millions of acres of pine land, 
 in the states of Louisiana, Mississippi, and the Alabama 
 territory, the very existence of pine timber in any great bo- 
 dies, produced ideas of sterility. It is to gypsum that the 
 region I am now speaking of, owes most of its reputation 
 as productive soil. Improved modes of agriculture, and 
 the use of manure, have their share very extensively in pro- 
 ducing so beneficial a change. It delighted me the more, 
 to see flourishing farms amid forests of pine, as it convin- 
 ced my mind, that the pine regions I once considered con- 
 demned to irremediable barrenness, may be made highly 
 fruitful. If this conclusion is correct, and I now see its 
 practical demonstration, the possible existence of many mil- 
 lions of human beings is made manifest, that could never exist 
 if pine lands were unimprovable. Considerably more than 
 one half of all that part of the United States, south of lat. 
 35, east of the Mississippi river, and bounded south by the 
 Gulph of Mexico aad Florida, is covered with pine. All 
 Florida may be considered a pine country. 
 
 Approaching Albany, the road from Hudson passes over 
 a very hilly and sandy tract. The plains terminate with the 
 waters of Kinderhook ; but pine every where now presents 
 itself as the prevailing tree, and though I had seen the prac- 
 tical possibility of cultivating usefully, land upon which this 
 tree abounds, to even the exclusion of all others, yet so con- 
 firmed were my habits of thinking on the subject, that it 
 
LET. I.j 
 
 ALBANY* 
 
 8* 
 
 gave to (be vicinity of Albany an air of barrenness 1 Lave 
 since been convinced it docs not deserve. 
 
 The approach to Albany upon thi^road, affords one of 
 the finest landscapes on the Hudson. About one and a half 
 miles from the city, the valley of the Hudson opens, present- 
 ing 'Albany, Grcenbush, the wide sweeping bottoms of the 
 river, and the adjacent farms ; though thirty miles distant 
 the peaks of Windham, and up the Hudson, the elevated 
 country beyond Troy and Lansingburgh. The view of Al- 
 bany itself, is from tins hill extremely advantangeous j from 
 the rapid acclivity upon which that city is built, scarce a 
 bouse is unseen. There is no point in the respective vicini- 
 ty of either Baltimore, Philadelphia, New-York, or Boston*, 
 where those cities can be so completely cngrasped at one 
 glance of the eye ; the view of Pittsburg from the Mononga- 
 hela coal hill, is the only position that I have seen, which 
 equals that near Albany. The lattcHs, however, superior 
 as commanding a much wider field of vision. 
 
 Yours,, 
 
*6 
 
 xitor. 
 
 [^ET. II> 
 
 •BETTER II, 
 
 Troy, May 5th, ISIS, 
 
 Bear Sik, 
 
 The weather lias been uniformly and excessively in- 
 clement since my departure from New-York, and in a par- 
 ticular manner since my arrival in Albany. The roads in 
 this neighborhood are scarcely passable. With some dan- 
 ger and difficulty I yesterday came to this town. We have 
 this morning an interval of clear sun-shine, which is cheer- 
 ful, and has exposed from the front street the snow capped 
 summits of the Catsbergs. -The absence indeed of ice and 
 snow, is the only circumstance that even here marked the 
 approach of spring ; every object has otherwise, the cold 
 and solitary aspect of winter. The Tludson is excessively 
 swelled by the recent rains, and by the melting ice and 
 snow towards its source. 
 
 The banks near this town, at Albany, and for a few miles 
 below that city, indicate the diminished influence of the 
 tide, and the effects produced by mountain streams. Exten- 
 ded alluvial bottoms, and a continued current to the south- 
 ward, though still checked by the swell below, are changes 
 that obtrude themselves to the immediate notice of the 
 traveller. 
 
 This town is the first upon the Hudson, that can be con- 
 sidered as built upon the bottoms of that river. The site 
 is not elevated more than eight or ten feet above the level 
 of high water mark on the river bank, sloping gradually to 
 the water edge. Some of the lower parts are now inunda- 
 ted. The base of the bottom on which the town is placed* 
 is rolled pebble with an alluvial covering ; it is about 800 
 yards wide, from the foot of the hill to the river bank, 
 The hills rise with a very # steep acclivity, but without preci- 
 pices. 
 
JCET. II.] 
 
 TROY. 
 
 37 
 
 I measured a base 235 feet, in Col. Albert Pawlin's gar- 
 den, upon a very level plain from the extremity of which I 
 took angles of elevation, to standing objects upon the hill 
 in the rear of the city ; the calculations founded upon the 
 base and angles gave Zhk feet as the height of the hill, at 
 the distance of 3951 feet from the south extremity of the 
 base. The garden, in which this operation was performed, 
 is situated at the lower end of the city, about 100 feet 
 from the margin dell, and not more than two feet above 
 the level of the Hudson river, at the time the admeas- 
 urement was made. 
 
 Troy is formed by one main street inclining with the in- 
 flections of the river, and crossed by others running from 
 the river, to the base of the adjacent hills. Standing at or 
 near the head of tide water, lying so nearly level with the 
 Hudson, and having a well cultivated country above and in 
 its rear, Troy is well situated for a commercial town. In 
 point of wealth, business, population and extent, it is the 
 third town in the state of New-York. Most of the buildings 
 are of brick, and have an elegant and spacious appearance ; 
 the inhabitants cannot fall short of seren thousand. 
 
 We have often, in conversation, spoke of the Hudson as a 
 long narrow bay, rather than a river. This body of water 
 has indeed but one characteristic, that could ever give it the 
 appellation of a river j that is its great length, when com- 
 pared with its ordinary width. In every other respect* it 
 exhibits the common features of a bay, I do not remember 
 to have ever read in any author, an attempt to define the 
 real difference between a river and a bay ; you will recol 
 leet that in our little hydrographical definitions, we consid- 
 ered that body of water a river, whose opposing banks, did 
 actually or very nearly form corresponding curves j and we 
 viewed that body of water a bay, into which, if connected 
 with a sea having tides, those tides flowed, and whose oppo- 
 site banks did not obey opposing inflections. If these prin- 
 ciples of analysis are correct, the Hudson is a bay to the 
 
TROY, 
 
 [XET. II. 
 
 junction of its north branch with the Mohawk. It is to be 
 regretted, that the continuity of the Hudson above Water- 
 ford, wad not received a distinctive name from the bay or 
 river below. In reality the Mohawk and the upper Hudson, 
 after rolling over considerable falls, both enter the head of a 
 bay. The features of those two latter rivers, except in 
 magnitude, differ but little from the other streams, which 1 
 have their sources in the higher extremities of the Hudson 
 valley, and which flowing over a comparative table land, 
 approach near, and are then precipitated over elevated ledg- 
 es of rock, before finding the level of the recumbent bay. 
 
 Examining the environs of Troy, Lansingburg, and Wa 
 terford, I found PocstenVKil!, which enters the Hudson at 
 the lower extremity of the former town, rolling over reite- 
 rated cataracts, similar to all the streams I had seen from 
 the Highlands upwards. The Mohawk dashing over the 
 Cahoos falls, and the Hudson over its numerous rapids, all 
 seem influenced in their motion by one common cause. 
 
 The view from the hills near Troy is extensive, but the 
 quantity of pine and cedar, give here, as near Albany, a 
 sterile aspect to the neighboring country. I have before ob- 
 served, that associating ideas of sterility with these ever- 
 greens, is in part a mistaken application of data, taken from 
 a distant and in many respects a very different country. 
 W ell informed men have observed to me, when speaking of 
 those lands that appeared so barren, that, good husbandry 
 never failed to render them very productive. Your intelli- 
 gent friend B*****l, of Albany, who has made the experi- 
 ment upon part of the worst of those lands, confirms in 
 strong language their liability to amelioration. I am font! 
 of dwelling upon, and often recurring to such subjects. It 
 is pleasing to be convinced that a dense and happy popula- 
 tion, may be subsisted upon places where once incurable 
 sterility seemed to reign. Adieu. 
 
£ET. III.] 
 
 SCHENECTADY. 
 
 30 
 
 LETTER III. 
 
 Schenectady, Mai) 8lh, 1S1#. 
 
 Dear SrR, 
 
 I would have been pleased to have extended my ram- 
 bles more into (he adjacent country, near Albany and Troy, 
 but the incessant rain prevented any comfortable or benefi- 
 cial excursion. The 6th of May the rain fell in torrents, 
 in the midst of which I returned from Troy to Albany* 
 where I remained until the morning of the Sth, when I set 
 out in the stage for the westward. The rain had ceased in 
 the night, but the roads for about (wo miles from the city*, 
 were so intolerable as to oblige the passengers to leave the 
 stage, in order to enable the horses to drag the vehicle 
 through the deep mud. After attaining the summit level 
 at the western part of Albany, the country is level, the 
 surface a clay mixed with sand and whether the wretched 
 road that exists there, is the necessary consequence of the 
 nature of the surface or soil, or the effect of a defective po- 
 lice, those most concerned ought to explain. As it was, I 
 was glad to arrive safe over this marsh, and attain the sandy 
 plains farther to the westward. 
 
 The distance from Albany to Schenectady is sixteen com 
 puted miles; the intermediate country is broken, rolling 
 sandy, and in its natural state extremely barren. The prin- 
 cipal timber white pine and red cedar, admixed near the 
 streams with some white oak, black oak, and white birch, 
 with a few stems of red flowering maple. The water courses 
 which cross the road flow north-east towards the Mohawk, 
 and have some fine extensive farms upon their alluvial bot- 
 toms. Before reaching Schenectady a high hill gives tiie 
 traveller a full view of the adjacent country. At the time 
 of the year in w hich I travelled a few blossoms upon the 
 maples and birch trees, were the only harbingers of ap- 
 
40 SCI1ENEGTADY. PLET. III. 
 
 • • • ^ 
 
 proaehing spring. The slopes of the Mohawk were clothed 
 with pine and cedar ; the leafless branches of the other trees 
 were hid amid the deep green boughs of those hardy sons of 
 the forest. Descending into the vale in which stands the 
 comparatively ancient village of Schenectady, another and 
 more pleasing scene opens. The very flourishing village 
 standing upon the fertile alluvial flats of the Mohawk pre- 
 sents a rich picture of cultivation, contrasting strongly with 
 the sandy hills towards Albany, or the equally arid eminen- 
 ces beyond the Mohawk to the north of Schenectady. 
 
 This town, or city, is situated upon the flats at the bottom 
 of the hills, on the south or right side of the Mohawk river ; 
 it is more regularly laid out than most of the ancient towns 
 established by the early settlers of New- York, now contains 
 more than 500 houses, and perhaps S000 inhabitants. Many 
 of the buildings are large, expensive and elegant. This town 
 is well placed to receive the benefits of an extensive com- 
 merce with the rich and prosperous settlements which bor- 
 der the Mohawk to its source. The inhabitants seem to 
 have availed themselves of their advantages, the trade of the 
 place appears productive. 
 
 Schenectady recals many facts of historical interest. It 
 formed for a long period of time, the frontier town towards 
 the Indian country. In February, 1690, a marauding party 
 of French and Indians surprised the inhabitants before day 
 light in the morning. Aroused from their peaceful beds by 
 the explosion of the fire arms, and the piercing yells of their 
 savage enemies, an indiscriminate slaughter ensued. The 
 mother and the babe, the husband and wife, the brother and 
 sister shared the same fate. A few escaped, who almost 
 naked, through frost and snow carried the distressful tidings 
 to Albany. This was one of the many, and one of the most 
 tragical scenes of savage border warfare, that has occurred 
 with some intervals, around our settlements for upwards of 
 two centuries, and which is far from having terminated. 
 The massacre at Fort Mims, and many others within five 
 
LET. III. J 
 
 SCHENECTADY. 
 
 41 
 
 years past, are only recent instances of the continuation of 
 this most dreadful of all species of war. The circle is 
 widening, the very nation has ceased to exist, which reduced 
 Schenectady to ashes and buried in its ruins the remains of 
 its murdered citizens, but other hordes of savages have con- 
 tinually presented their ferocious front, and our frontiers 
 have ever been stained with the blood of helpless innocence. 
 Those tribes have apparently receded, but in fact they have 
 been rather extinguished. 
 
 The Mohawks,^ who once gave law to an immense extent^ 
 the centre of which was the present New- York, have also dis- 
 appeared from the world, and have only now remaining to at- 
 test their former existence, the name of the beautiful stream 
 upon which is situated the town of Schenectady. Its current 
 once stained with human gore, now flows gentle, pure and 
 steady, through some of the finest settlements in all America* 
 
 Schenectady is the seat ot justice for the county of the 
 same name, and as such, contains the usual buildings neces- 
 sary for courts of justice and prisons. It is also more 
 honourably remarkable, as having within its limits Union 
 College, a respectable literary institution, incorporated in 
 179^, and took its name from the union of several religious 
 societies in its formation.f It is now in a flourishing situa- 
 tion, having an ample library, philosophical and chymical ap- 
 paratus, and upwards of 130 students. The annual expense 
 Of board and education about gi20 per annum. Doubts 
 have been suggested whether a good moral policy would 
 justify the reduction of collegiate education so lotv. Many 
 reasons more specious than solid, have been adduced, to 
 shew, " that little learning is a dangerous thing" and that 
 man, 4 must drink deep, or taste not of the Pierian spring.'* 
 I can never forget your reply, when I once observed, that 
 the time never could arrive when all mankind could be learn^ 
 ed. Your expression was, that comparatively, almost any 
 
 * The allies, not the enemies of the people of Schenectady, 
 t Spaftbrds Gazetteer, page 44. 
 
 E 
 
VALLEY OF THE MOHAWK RIVER. LET. lit. 
 
 member of a civilized country was learned, when compared 
 with savages ; and the common mode of expression would 
 suppose, that, all men ought to remain savage, or attain the 
 empyrean heights of literary excellence. Some light head- 
 ed dunces have become pedants by obtaining a few words in 
 the learned languages ; as our friend A***s, who spouts 
 languages living and dead, without more utility than a par- 
 rot would gain by using the same sounds. It cannot now, 
 however, be doubted, but that the human character is enno- 
 bled, the human heart softened, and public morals purified, by 
 genera! instruction.' Though slight abuses may arise in some 
 instances from the weakness or depravity of individuals, 
 those abuses deteriorate no more from the value of educa- 
 tion, than the ordinary defects of all human institutions do, 
 from any amelioration whatever in the condition of our spe- 
 cies. 
 
 For my own part, I viewed the buildings composing the 
 three colleges w hich bear the name of Union in Schenectady, 
 with a similar reverence, with which I had formerly felt 
 when passing Cambridge, Yale, Columbia, Princeton, and 
 Dickinson. Those, and other such edifices, are the true 
 temples of reason. 
 
 In the vale of the Mohawk, I considered myself as in a 
 new region. I had now passed the utmost limit of (he At- 
 lantic tides. Clinton's Inaugural Discourse, and Dr. Mitch- 
 ill's notes to Kirk and Mercein's edition of Cuvier's 
 Theory of the Earth? had enflained my desire to visit the 
 interior of this continent. I also wished to contrast with 
 each other, the two extremities of the United States. My 
 progress from the city of New-York to Albany, and even to 
 Schenectady, as merely introductory to my real tour* 
 Hitherto I had travelled over a region remarkable in itself, 
 but with features of considerable resemblance to the scenes 
 to which you are most familiar, but from hence objects are 
 new, and of a nature very dissimilar to those over which we 
 have been in the habit of rambling. 
 
 You will hear of me again from Utica, Adieu. 
 
XET. IV.] 
 
 SCHENECTADY. 
 
 LETTER IV. 
 
 Utica, May lif.fi, 181$. 
 
 Dear Sir> 
 
 By an unexpected good fortune the Weather continued 
 without- rain during my journey from Schenectady to this* 
 town. The roads were in many places extremely bad, which 
 circumstance had one good effect, it enabled me to keep in 
 advance of the stage, and by travelling on foot, and in some 
 measure at my leisure, procured me a much better view of 
 the country than I could have gained by continuing in the 
 vehicle. I kept my pocket book and pencil in my hand, and 
 made my notes as the objects presented themselves. Rough 
 as these notes are, 1 have seiit you a copy, lean add nothing 
 material by putting them in any other form. You expressed 
 a kind desire to hear from me, and to have as near as pos- 
 sible a picture of my route, and a description of the incidents 
 of my tour, as these incidents transpired. The distances are 
 given from Albany, as it was on leaving that city, that I 
 commenced to note regularly the stages and diversities of 
 the country. 
 
 MILES* 
 
 10 From Albany to Schdrteetady. 
 
 As soon as I had finished breakfast in the latter 
 town, I seized my cane, put your letter in the 
 mail, and preceded the stage over the Mohawk. 
 The road here passes this stream by a fine wooden 
 bridge, said to be the masterpiece of the celebra- 
 ted bridge builder, Theodore Burr ; it is 997 feet in 
 length. The structure was entirely new to me* 
 and could not be satisfactorily given without a 
 diagram. The most facile mode of conveying to 
 you, an idea of the principle upon which ihh 
 bridge is formed, is by an placed lengthwise* 
 
MOHAWK RIVER. 
 
 [LET. IV* 
 
 MILES. 
 
 — 16 The decumbent curves resting upon abutments, 
 and the incumbent ones supporting the roof; the 
 w hole fabric has the appearance of great strength. 
 The abutments are composed of stone, the super- 
 structure wood i the curved arches are framed out 
 of thick plank. 
 
 The road to Ballston leaves that to Utica, at the 
 north extremity of the bridge. The latter road 
 proceeds over the Mohawk flats, a rich and level 
 alluvial bottom, which has much the appearance of 
 having once been the bottom of a lake. These 
 plains are now extremely productive, though envi- 
 roned on the north and south sides by sterile pin© 
 hills. 
 
 fi — '21 Haveleifs tavern* 
 
 8**-29 Groat's tavern. 
 
 Between the two last stages, the country has be 
 come extremely variegated and broken; The #orth 
 bank along which I travelled, was hilly, and often 
 so precipitous, as to leave scarce room for the road 
 to pass ; the south side slopes gradually from the 
 river, with numerous farms rising above each 
 other as far as the eye can reach. The soil of the 
 north side appears sandy and sterile, that of the 
 south must be of a greatly superior quality. The 
 prevalent timber on the hills pine, with different 
 kinds of oak and white birch ; that on the river 
 bottoms and contiguous banks, white walnut, 
 shell bark hickory, some liriodendron tulipifera 
 and chesnut. 
 
 The river is about 250 yards wide, and filled 
 with islarfds, which follow each other in rapid 
 succession. Sand and rounded pebbles form the 
 superstratum, but schistose limestone appears pro- 
 jecting from the banks in a horizontal position* 
 marking the commencement of a secondary region* 
 
LET. IV. j 
 
 TRIPES HIJL1U 
 
 >IIXES. 
 
 1— 30 E. E. Degraff's: 
 1_31 G. Manny's. 
 
 Horizontal or Floetz limestone, becomes more 
 frequent. The opposing banks maintain their rela- 
 tive characters. 
 
 2 — 33 Village of Amsterdam in Montgomery county. 
 
 This is a romantic village, situated on the slope 
 of the hills, with the Chucktanunda, a large creek 
 foaming over ledges of limestone amongst the 
 buildings, and rushing impetuously down the adja- 
 cent declivities towards the Mohawk. The sud- 
 den effect of this admixture of houses and cataracts 
 is extremely pleasing and picturesque. The south 
 shore continues to sweep before the eye, in far dis- 
 tant stages of cultivated acclivities. 
 & — 37 Tripes Hill, opposite the mouth of Scoharie river, 
 or creek. 
 
 This is one of the most singular and difficult 
 passes on the Mohawk river. The hill rises 
 abrupt, is high, sandy, and extremely painful in 
 the ascent. There is no mode to avoid this in 
 convenience, as the bank of the river is an ele- 
 vated ledge of rock on the north side. The table 
 land is a sandy plain, and the descent above is also 
 but little less abrupt than the ascent below. From 
 the highest part of the hill, the mouth and valley 
 of the Schoharie is in full view. The bottom of 
 the Mohawk is here extensive, but extremely flat 
 on the south side ; the Schoharie is seen meandering 
 over this plain in its course from the hills to the 
 Mohawk river. The bottoms appear extremely 
 fertile, but must be subject to occasional inundation, 
 and from their undeviating level, the crops must 
 suffer great injury when these accidents occur, 
 
PALATINE. 
 
 [iLT/r. IV 
 
 MILES. 
 
 2 — 39 Converts tavern. 
 
 3 — *2 Village of Caghnawaga, 
 
 4 — 43 Johnson's creek. 
 
 6 — M Conueh/s tavern. 
 
 5— 57 Palatine lower Village. 
 
 Between the two last stages, the road passes 
 generally upon the river bottoms, which are narrow 
 and terminated to the north by steep hills or per- 
 pendicular ledges of secondary rock. The south 
 bank is also broken, rocky and much less cultiva- 
 ted than any equal distance I have yet seen on the 
 Mohawk. The soil black, and no doubt fertile : 
 even that of the hills assumes a more inviting ap- 
 pearance as I have ascended. The timber is now 
 strongly indicative of productive soil ; sugar maple 
 is so common as to form the principal article of 
 fuel, this tree never flourishes abundantly, except 
 upon the very best lands ; it is here often seen of 
 gigantic size along the bottoms, and often upon the 
 highest and steepest banks visible from the road. 
 Other timber trees, though fewer in number, con- 
 tinue as before noted. 
 
 The rock strata is schistose limestone and sand-, 
 stone, alternately overlaying each other. 
 4—61 Falatine njyper village. 
 
 Face of the country continues unchanged, on ea«h 
 side of the river, perpendicular precipices frequent* 
 I remained over night in the latter village, and at 
 the dawn of day, on the morning of the 9th of May, 
 set out on foot in advance of the stage, and walked 
 
 6— 67 to Palatine church. Slope of the country has now 
 
 changed to the north or left side of the stream. 
 Sugar maple the prevailing timber, and almost ex- 
 clusive fucL 
 
X.ET. IV.] 
 
 GFPENIIEIM. 
 
 *7 
 
 MILES. 
 
 7 — 7i Mouth of East Canada creek* and village of Op* 
 pcuheim. 
 
 The village stands near the bank of the Mohawk 
 above (he mouth of the creek. Lower or East 
 Canada, is a fine mill stream of about twenty-five 
 miles in length, independent of particular bends, 
 rising in Montgomery county upon the same table 
 land from which flows the Saeondago branch of 
 Hudson river. The two streams interlock, and 
 falling over a number of precipices, pursue their 
 respective courses with great rapidity, until lost in 
 in the larger stream, into which their waters are 
 discharged. It may be here repeated that all (he 
 tributary streams of the Hudson, and its branches 
 seem to be peculiarly adapted to the construction of 
 water machinery. East Canada creek forms from 
 its mouth, about twenty miles of the boundary be- 
 tween Montgomery and Herkimer counties, 
 
 Oppenheim is a small village, with nothing iti its 
 construction or situation worthy particular notice. 
 3-^77 Van Walkenburgh's Inn. 
 
 Since leaving Oppenheim, I travelled over high 
 hills ; the slope has now again changed to the south 
 side of the Mohawk, which presents an elegant ac- 
 clivity rising to considerable elevation, chequered 
 with farms and copses of wood, intermingling in 
 endless variety. A summer excursion over this re 
 gion must afford the most charming contrasts in 
 nature. It is now pleasing in the undress of nature, 
 with banks of snow still resting upon many of the 
 hill sides. 
 
 The timber continues to present similar varieties 
 as before noticed, since leaving Palatine, except 
 that sugar maple, now encroaches still more upon 
 the other species of trees. 
 
48 
 
 KITTLE FALLS. 
 
 [LET. IT. 
 
 MILES, 
 
 M Little Falls. 
 
 This cataract is caused by a chain of granitic 
 mountains of no great elevation, which crosses the 
 Mohawk at this place. The chain is a ramification, 
 or perhaps a continuation of the Catsbergs. Ap- 
 proaching the pass, I was struck with its great re- 
 semblance to the passage of the Juniata, through 
 the Warrior mountain below Bedford, in Pennsyl- 
 vania, except that the scenery of the latter is on a 
 larger scale, and the mountains covered with a less 
 ■vigorous growth of trees, than those which occasion 
 the Little Falls in;the Mohawk. In both, the rivers 
 at the distance below, of half a mile, seem to issue 
 from the base of the mountains, which seen oblique- 
 ly, conceals the narrow glens through which the 
 waters work their toilsome way.^ 
 
 * The description given by gov. De Witt Clinton, of the Little 
 Falls, will continue to supercede the use of any other. It is in« 
 deed a line specimen of topographical painting, and places the 
 attendant phenomena before the mind's eye. I had Dr. Mitchill's 
 notes on Cuvier, into which this description is copied, in my hands 
 when passing this interesting cataract, and amid the wildness 
 of the scene, and in hearing of the roar of the gushing waters, 
 read and felt the truth of this excellent view of one of the great 
 scenes that our country presents to the admiring traveller. Few 
 hi this country but who have often read the respective works I 
 have mentioned in my text, and have seen of course, the descrip- 
 tion of the Little falls, to which I have alluded. The reader 
 will pardon, however, its insertion from the original work, in a 
 note ; some may not have read it, and few who have, will find ^ 
 second perusal tedious. 
 
 u The Little Falls on the Mohawk river, in connexion with the 
 surrounding country, exhibit a very interesting aspect. As you 
 approach the falls the river becomes narrow and deep, and you 
 pass through immense rocks, principally of granite, interpersed 
 with limestone. In various places you observe profound exca- 
 vations in the rocks made by the agitation of pebbles in the 
 fissures, and in some places the river is not more than twenty 
 yards wide. As you approach the western extremity of the hills a 
 you find them about half a mile distant from summit to summit^ 
 
1ET. IY* 
 
 XITTXB FAiLS; 
 
 49 
 
 MILES. 
 
 The scenery near the Little Falls, is wild and 
 striking. As you approach this place, the Talley 
 of the river seems to close, the road approaches the 
 pass obliquely, winding along the foot of hills 
 
 and at least three hundred feet high. The rocks are composed 
 of granite, and many of them are thirty or forty feet thick, and 
 the whole mountain extends at least, half a mile from east to west. 
 You see them piled on each other, like Ossa on Pelion, and in 
 other places, huge fragments scattered about, indicating a violent 
 rupture of the waters through this place, as if they had been for- 
 merly dammed up and had formed a passage, and in all directions 
 you behold great rocks exhibiting rotundities, points and cavi- 
 ties, as if worn by the violence of the waves, or hurled frpm 
 their ancient positions. 
 
 " The general appearance of the Little Falls indicates the for- 
 mer existence of a great lake above, connected with the Oneida 
 lake ; and as the waters forced a passage here and receded, the 
 flats above were formed and composed several thousand acres of 
 the richest land. Rome being the highest point on the lake, the 
 passage of the waters on the east side left it bare ; the Oneida 
 lake gradually receded on the west side, and formed the great 
 marsh or swamp, now surrounding the waters on Wood creek. 
 The physiognomy of the country from the commencement of 
 Wood creek to its termination in the Oneida lake, confirms this hy- 
 pothesis. The westerly and north westerly winds continually drive 
 the sand of the lake towards the creek, and you can distinctly 
 perceive the alluvion increasing eastward by the accumulation of 
 sand, and the formation of new ground. Near the lake, you ob- 
 serve sand without trees, then to the east a few scattering trees > 
 and as you proceed in that direction, the woods thicken. The 
 whole country from the commencement to the termination of 
 Wood creek, looks like made ground. In digging the canal in 
 Wood creek, pine trees have been found twelve feet deep. An 
 old boatman several years ago, said that he had been fifty years 
 in that employ, and that the Oneida lake had receded half a mile 
 within his memory. William Colbreath, one of the first settlers 
 at Rome, in digging a well, found a large tree at the depth of 
 twelve feet. This great lake, breaking down in the first place, 
 the barriers which opposed the progress of its waters to the east, 
 and then gradually receding to the west, is a subject well deserv- 
 ing of minute investigation." — Clinton's Introductory Discourse, 
 page 52. 
 
 Since my return to the city of New-York, I had the pleasure 1 
 p{ meeting there ? with Mr. Isaac Briggs, who is mentioned in this 
 
*0 
 
 IITTLE FALLS. 
 
 [LET rt* 
 
 MIES. 
 
 —81 covered with enormous sugar maples whose rougli 
 boughs hang over the heart of the passenger. An 
 elegant white tavern house stands near the en- 
 trance into the narrow glen below the cataract. 
 After passing the house a few yards, the road turns 
 suddenly to the right, and scenes of grandeur suc- 
 ceed each other in rapid review. The huge un- 
 shapen fragments of granite and other rocks, lie 
 disrupted in an infinity of positions, interspersed 
 and overgrown with sugar maple, elm, hemlock, 
 oak, pine, and other trees. Toiling about half a 
 
 eorrrespondence as one of the gentlemen- employed under the 
 authority of the state of -New-York, as an engineer on the grand 
 canal. Mr. Briggs in the execution of his official duty, has mea- 
 sured and levelled the Mohawk river and its banks from Rome to 
 the Little Falls, and who had the goodness to give me the follow- 
 ing measurements of the hills adjacent to the Little Falls. 
 
 Falls-hill, where the road (pn the south side of the Mohawk.) 
 passes it, is 518 feet higher than our level above the falls; 5T L i 
 feet higher than our level two miles below the fails 5 473 feet 
 higher than Rome level \ and 323 feet higher than the surface of 
 lake Erie, 
 
 This admeasurement shews, that the present level above the 
 Falls is only forty-five feet different from the level of Rome. Of 
 course, if the time ever existed when the water at the Falls was 
 more than forty-five feet above its present level, then did a lake ex- 
 tend to the present Oneida, making the whole one sheet of water. 
 The most incontestable proofs remain upon the rocks, in and 
 near the present fall, that the water once flowed more than fifty 
 feet higher than it does now. What revolutions ! what sudden 
 and.gradual changes have wrought their effects upon the crust of 
 our planet ! what we now see of the surface of our globe is almost 
 composed of water, or of broken fragments torn by violence from 
 their pristine position, at times beyond our records, and in many 
 instances, by means that elude our research 
 
 To pursue the investigation of these changes, is not always an 
 idle application, as in the instance before us, where the examina- 
 tion of the phenomena enables us to form rational opinions upon, 
 how far we can effect beneficial improvements upon the now exis- 
 tent waters in this singular region. A region where rivers appear 
 in many instances in their youth. 
 
XET. IV.] 
 
 JLITTLE FAliIiSf 
 
 51 
 
 WHILES, 
 
 —-81 mile, you first hear the din and (hen approach 
 within sight of the foaming stirge, tu hi: with 
 irresistible violence over its rocky bed. From the 
 foot of the falls, the road winds its tortuous way up 
 the steep ascent, and in about a quarter of a mile* 
 brings the traveller to a beautiful, well built vil- 
 lage. Here every feeling of taste meets a rich 
 repast ; so many, so variant, and so striking are 
 the objects which the hand of nature and art, have 
 here engrouped in one prospect. The rock in 
 thousands of forms, trees and shrubs rising from 
 their interstices. The white surge of the falling 
 waters ; beyond which is seen the smooth surface 
 of the Mohawk, whose placid stream advances 
 slow and silent to the scene of tumult below. Still 
 farther to the south-west, opens the fine expansion 
 s&f the German flats, chequered with all the de- 
 corations of field, orchard, meadow, houses and 
 copses of wood. The clear blue heaven and fleecy 
 clouds form the back ground of this delightful 
 landscape. A landscape the traveller can enjoy 
 from the windows of an excellent inn, which stands 
 . in the romantic village which raises its well built 
 houses between the almost perpendicular crags on 
 one side, and the struggling stream on the other. 
 The marks are numerous and manifest of an ante- 
 rior and much greater elevation of the water than 
 found there at present. Many of the rocks are 
 perforated with round holes, made by the rotation 
 of pebbles in a running stream. Those rocks are 
 often of immense size, and placed where they have 
 lain for countless ages. These imprinted evi- 
 dences of geological revolution, evince a slovv and 
 gradual, not a sudden or violent change. The op- 
 posing hills seem as if sawn asunder by the pei*- 
 
GERMAN FLATS. 
 
 [.IiET» IV, 
 
 MILES. 
 
 —81 petual abrasion of the water. No farther altera- 
 tion of consequence can take place in future, as the 
 bed of the river is worn down to a level with the 
 bottom of the ancient decumbent lake. 
 
 Fassing above the falls, the road follows the 
 bank of the river, from which the adjacent hills 
 rise by a very steep ascent. Prominences pro- 
 trude themselves frequently to the margin of the 
 w ater, and force the course of the road to rise to 
 considerable elevation, giving reiterated opportu- 
 nities to enjoy the prospect of the truly rich coun- 
 try, known by the name of the German flats. This 
 region takes it name from the circumstance of the 
 first civilized emigrants being Germans. Upon no 
 part of the United States have the inhabitants suf- 
 fered more from that murderous border warfare, 
 instigated by whites, and pursued by savages, than 
 did the early settlers on the now smiling German 
 flats. For a long period of time after the settle 
 tlements made by the French in Canada, and by 
 the English and Dutch upon the Atlantic coast ; the 
 Mohawk and Oswego rivers, formed the line of 
 eruptive communication, and blood marked its va- 
 rious points.^ The aged yet remember, and re-? 
 count with a melancholy recollection, many of 
 those tragical scenes. Time has changed the 
 drama, the rage of war has subsided, the savages 
 have perished or dwindled to a wretched remnant. 
 Towns, villages, churches, schools, and farm 
 bouses, now adorn this once dreary waste. The 
 cultivated mind may shed a tear upon the horrors 
 of the past, but a tear like rain drops in the beams 
 
 * Some of the horrors of this long chain of sanguinary events^ 
 will be noticed in the sequel of this treatise. 
 
£ET. IV.] 
 
 WEST CANADA CHEEK, 
 
 53 
 
 MILES. 
 
 — 81 of the sun. A review of the present must be de- 
 lightful to every generous and feeling heart. It is 
 a picture on which is traced, the most interesting 
 revolution in the moral and physical condition of 
 human nature. There is seen the region, where a 
 few years past, roamed the blood stained sayage, 
 and where now dwells in peace and plenty the 
 civilized man. "Where in times remote, stood an 
 expansive lake, and where now bloom the most lux- 
 uriant harvests. Spring had made but little ad- 
 vance, at the time I passed this remarkable place $ 
 I amused my fancy in contemplating what it would 
 exhibit when decked in all the gaiety of the vernal 
 season, or when the fields and meadows were 
 clothed in the rich garb of summer. Lost in this 
 pleasing reverie, time past unheaded until my re- 
 collection was aroused by finding myself at the 
 mouth of 
 7—86 West Canada creek. 
 
 From the projecting hill below this creek, a very 
 comprehensive view is afforded of both the German 
 and Herkimer flats. These expansive bottoms are 
 in fact, the same body of soil, being only divided 
 by the Mohawk river, winding from the hills on 
 its south, to those on its north side. West Canada 
 creek is a stream of considerable magnitude, rising 
 in a very hilly or rather mountainous country 
 which forms the south-west angle of Hamilton 
 county. This elevated tract is the continuation of 
 the same ridge that crosses the Mohawk at, and 
 forms the Little Falls, and which gives rise in the 
 same neighborhood to the two Canadas, and to the 
 Sacondago branch of the Hudson. West Canada^ 
 like its namesake, falls impetuously in almost all 
 its course. Its higher branches flow westwardly 
 
54. VJIX^GE OF HERKIMER. JLET. IV.] 
 
 MILES. 
 
 — S6 about twenty miles, unite and enter Herkimer, and 
 bending abruptly south, wind through the latter 
 county twenty more miles, and is then lost in the Mo- 
 hawk. The spring floods of (hose short mountain 
 streams, are terrible. A fine wooden bridge for- 
 merly crossed West Canada near its mouth, but the 
 ♦ freshet of last winter carried it away ; the inhabi- 
 ' tants are now erecting another, which will be, no 
 doubt, completed in the course of the ensuing sum- 
 mer. I passed the creek in a skiff, and soon found 
 myself in 
 
 1 — 87 The village of Herkimer. • 
 
 This village stands upon an elevated but alluvial 
 plain, composed of rounded pebbles, sand and clay. 
 It occupies the central part of the flats of the same 
 name. The neighboring country is well cultivated, 
 the soil exuberantly fertile, and the improvements 
 exhibit an air of wealth and industry* The Herki- 
 mer flats do not appear to be so tamely level as those 
 on the opposite side of the Mohawk. In point of 
 timber, they present one general character j sugar 
 tree, elm, white walnut or butternut, prevails upon 
 the bottoms near the streams ; on the hills or ele- 
 vated slopes are found oak, hemlock, linden, (bass- 
 wood) sugar maple, elm, ash, and hickory. Of 
 oak, ash, and hickory, several species of each oc- 
 cur. 
 
 I remained but a short time in the village of 
 Herkimer, set out, and after passing the small and 
 
 S— 93 unimportant village of Schuyler, found myself about 
 four in the afternoon in 
 
 8_t0i Uliea. 
 
 The plain of the Herkimer flats continues from that vil- 
 lage to Schuyler, where the road rises upon higher but still 
 level land. The slope is here on the north side. Some part 
 
LET. IV- j 
 
 UTICA 
 
 S3 
 
 of (he country is not very well improved* More wood land 
 remains here than I had seen any where else since leaving 
 Schenectady. This character however changes in approach- 
 ing the city of Utica, whose vicinity exhibits a well cultivat- 
 ed and wealthy neighborhood. The whole country presents 
 marks of not very ancient submersion. The super-stratum 
 is every where sand, loam and rounded pebbles ; the materi- 
 als in various degrees of respective prevalence and commix- 
 ture $ the whole affording in many places a soil of extraor- 
 dinary fertility. 
 
 Utica is approached from the north, in part by a very bad 
 road, and in part by a very good causeway. The latter is 
 about a mile in length, but does not cross the level alluvial 
 flats of the Mohawk. The residue of the road, was, when I 
 passed it, in a wretched condition. 
 
 Utiea occupies the site of old fort Schuyler, and stands 
 upon the right or south bank of the Mohawk river, in Oneida 
 county, and in north latitude 4.3° 06. The site of this town 
 is a gentle ascent, not exceeding two degrees, if so much. 
 The opposite bank of the Mohawk is for about a mile and a 
 half a perfect unbroken plain. The town stands at the low- 
 est depression of the ancient basin. The adjacent country 
 rises so imperceptibly that no elevation of consequence is 
 perceivable from the streets. Few trees are visible except 
 Hemlock and sugar maple. This town has two banks, one 
 a branch of that of Manhattan, in the city of New-York, the 
 other formed by the citizens, and incorporated since 1812. 
 Some very productive manufactories exist in this neighbor- 
 hood. The commerce of the place appears flourishing ; a 
 matter of course, as Utica is a kind of thoroughfare between 
 Albany and the central and western parts of the state of 
 New-York. The grand canal will pass through this town* 
 and add much to its importance as a place of business. 
 
 ? The latitude 1 obtained in Utica from that accurate mathe- 
 matician Isaac Bpjggs, who also gave me the variation of th# 
 magnetic needle there, 4® 19> W. 
 
£6 
 
 UTICA. 
 
 [LET. T. 
 
 Utica contains at this time near 3000 inhabitants, between 
 4 and 500 houses, with stores, taverns, book stores, and 
 other appendages of a flourishing country town. Here roads 
 diverge in all directions ; down the valley of the Mohawk 
 to Schenectady j westward to Auburn, Geneva, Canandai- 
 gua, Batavia, and Buffalo ; southward towards the valleys 
 ef the Delaware and Susquehannah rivers $ and northward 
 to Sacket's Harbor. 
 
 The day I write is heavy and threatens rain. The stage 
 does not leave this town until to-morrow ; I shall however 
 trust the weather and ray feet, and set out as usual, with my 
 cane in one hand and my tablets in the other. You will not 
 again hear from me before I reach Sacket's Harbor ; in the 
 mean time, though I am daily advancing farther from home? 
 I am not the less sincerely, 
 
 Dear Sir, 
 
 Y&iir devoted friend* 
 
 LETTER Y. 
 
 Sachet 9 s Harbor, May 12th, 1818* 
 
 l>EAR SlRj 
 
 Drenched to thfc skin, I arrived here yesterday evert- 
 ing, at 10 P. M. Enclosed you have a transcript of ray jour- 
 nal from Utica to this town. I was fortunately favored with 
 good weather the greatest part of the way, and only had & 
 heavy rain to close my journey hither. 
 
 MIXES. 
 
 1 From Utica to tro$s-roads. 
 1 — 2 Road to Rome, 
 
 Leaves that which leads towards Sacket's Har- 
 bor j the latter now assumes its north-west course* 
 
LET. V.] 
 
 ROAD FROM ITTICA. 
 
 MILES. 
 
 1 — 3 JVorthrop's. 
 
 After leaving tllica and proceeding as Far as the 
 cross roads, I had the fortune by carelessness or 
 some other cause to take a wrong road, and wan- 
 dered to the northward about two miles, but find- 
 ing my error I with some trouble regained nsy in- 
 tended road. I found the country rising more ra- 
 pidly than I anticipated. A small creek which 
 rises in the high ground north of UCiea, and which 
 enters the Mohawk river nearly opposite that 
 town, has cut so deep a ravine in the yielding ma- 
 terials through which it flows, as to be passed with 
 difficulty, I strayed to the east of this creek, and 
 was forced to return to the cross roads to regain 
 my way. 
 
 Above North rop's the road ascends in some pla- 
 ces gently and others abruptly, along the acclivity 
 of the hills. I frequently turned to enjoy the 
 prospect behind me, which though interrupted by 
 the woods, was exposed at intervals by the farms 
 which have been cleared near the road. As I ap- 
 proached the summit I found the ascent more rapid, 
 and the adjacent land more free from timber, con- 
 sequently the prospect expanded at every step ; and 
 on the extreme brow a large farm exposed to full 
 view the city of Utica, the vicinity, and the valley 
 of the Mohawk to the farthest limit of vision. 
 The eye has a range of more than thirty miles 
 «ast, south and southwest. Utica, though five 
 miles distant, seemed to lie at my feet. As I stood 
 and gazed upon this noble prospect, I could not 
 avoid exclaiming mentally « that I had seen many 
 u more sublime views, many more grand, but not 
 
 one had ever before met my eye, that so com- 
 u pletely answered to my conceptions, of the truly 
 P 
 
1WAB FKOM UTICA. 
 
 [let. v. 
 
 MIXES. 
 
 f — 3 h soft and beautiful in landscape." Certainly I 
 had more than a thousand farms spread before me, 
 main hundreds could be seen at one glance. Those 
 war were seen most distinctly, whilst those more 
 remote gradually diminished in size, and became, 
 from increased distance, less distinct, until, like 
 the vast inclined plane upon which they stood, they 
 were finally lost upon the verge of the distant iky* 
 
 That mind must be void of the least sympathies 
 of human nature, who could behold this fine pros- 
 pect, without feeling a strong sensation of pleas- 
 ure. Gratifying indeed must be the reflection 
 upon the sum of domestic peace, plenty, affection* 
 and comfort, enjoyed within its limits, 
 
 3—0 Tavern upon the table land of the MIL 
 
 % — 8 do. rqion Vac bottom northward of the hill. 
 
 1 — -9 Carvers tavern irpon nine mile run, Jloxcing soullt- 
 west into the Mohawk. 
 
 i— 13 Vilmge of Trent on. 
 
 Thus far I proceeded the same evening I left 
 Utiea, and found myself very well disposed to rest, 
 after a walk of seventeen miles, including the di- 
 rect distance, my error and its remedy, in my out- 
 set from Utica. 
 
 Between Utica and Trenton I found four varie- 
 ties of soil and timber. Upon the Mohawk flats 
 exist a deep black alluvial loam, with a slight in- 
 termixture of pebble. As the different banks rise, 
 pebble becomes more plentiful and decumbent, in 
 relation to the other materials of the soil. The 
 timber upon the alluvial, as also upon the contigu- 
 ous banks, is composed of hemlock, beech, sugar, 
 maple and elm, with rare examples of other trees. 
 The productive quality of the alluvial soil is very 
 strong*, that of the contiguous slopes but little in- 
 
.LET. V.] 
 
 YXCE OF THE COUNTRY. 
 
 MIXES. 
 
 — 13 ferior. The latter species of land more spungy 
 and wet than the former, though the contrary 
 would appear from relative position. The general 
 crop in this section of the state of New-York, ap- 
 pears (o 1x3 maize, wheat, rye, oats, and meadow 
 grass. Fruit trees suitable to the climate, such as 
 apples, pears, plumbs and cherries, appear plenti- 
 ful. Peach trees cannot here endure the severity 
 of winter -cold. 
 
 Rising above the alluvion and contiguous banks, 
 appears the second species of soil ; tliis latter va- 
 riety of land it called in the colonial language of 
 the country interval land. This soil is, as f have 
 already observed, more spungy than that of the 
 alluvion, and certainly much less productive. I 
 -ought, however, to premise that unusual rains had 
 preceded my visit to this country^ and that many 
 places appeared 'then wet and even inundated? 
 which would not be subject to similar inconven- 
 ience in a more moderate season. The water left 
 on the ground by recent rains, could not neverthe- 
 less, destroy the means of forming a correct com- 
 parative estimate. From a greater slope, every 
 other circumstance equal, Hie interval land ought 
 to be less moist than the alluvion, the contrary is, 
 ■as I have observed the fact. The varieties of 
 timber upon the interval, does not materially dif- 
 fer from those upon the alluvial land, except black 
 Inreh (befula nigra) which is more abundant upon 
 the former than upon the latter soil. 
 
 Ascending towards the summit of the hills, and 
 before gaining the apex, I found deep ruts made 
 m the wash of the road, the sides of which laid 
 !>are projections of secondary mica slate. lying in 
 
60 
 
 FACE OF TUB COUNTRY. 
 
 [let. >. 
 
 MIXES. 
 
 — 13 its original position ; forming the the third variety 
 of soil. 
 
 Though apparently productive as the interval 
 tract, this slate region must, from its greater ele- 
 vation, be more subject to early and late frost, than 
 either of the two preceding varieties of land. 
 Farms of great extent are open upon each section. 
 The highest summit of the hill where the road pas- 
 ses is cleared land, and affords to the traveller a 
 convenient opportunity of reviewing the vast ex- 
 panse around Utica. 
 
 Upon the table land above the miqa slate, now 
 repose immense bodies of rounded granite and bas- 
 altic pebble. The present respective position of 
 these rocks, are so different from that assigned 
 them by geologists, and the difficulty of accounting 
 from any know n operation of nature, for the trans 
 portal ion to such distance from their primitive beds, 
 and elevation to such heights of blocks of granite 
 and basalt, often eight or ten feet diameter, that 
 the task of accounting for existent phenomena 
 must be left by me, to those better qualified, or 
 more disposed to enter into the disquisition. I can 
 only observe, that the schist or slate demonstrably 
 reposes in its primitive position ; whilst the incum- 
 bent pebbles, enormous as they are, have evidently 
 been forced into their present state, by the agency 
 of some fluid. Water, as that body now operates 
 in either of its known states of ice or fluidity, 
 could never preserve in motion, consequently 
 transport one of the blocks I have seen to any, 
 even the smallest distance, much less cover an im- 
 meose surface with these rounded masses, which 
 exhibit all sizes, from a grain of sand to bodies of 
 more (Iran twenty feet diameter. This with many 
 
LET. V.] 
 
 FACE OF THE COUNTRY, 
 
 MILES. 
 
 —13 other phenomena I have seen, induces me to believe 
 that an order of things once, and for a great length 
 of time, existed upon this planet, producing effects 
 that remain when their causes have ceased to ope- 
 rate, perhaps forever. 
 
 Upon the table land, sugar maple ceases almost 
 entirely, though so very abundant upon the alluvi- 
 al, interval, and even upon (he schistose tract. 
 The black birch commences a shrub near the Mo- 
 hawk river, but when elevated upon the table tend, 
 assumes the size and majesty of a forest tree of the 
 firsi ^ ^ n ; tu( j e Beech on the contrary, a stately 
 tree on the io„ woim( i s> dwindles in mounting to 
 a more alpine air, arm mwn the table land is PaW5j? 
 and of stinted growth. Elm hemlock forms 
 the mass of the forest upon the table kino. 
 
 Either from the flatness of the land or from* 
 some other cause, the table land is extremely 
 swampy, and of course inconvenient to cultivate : 
 it is here narrow, not exceeding a mile in width. 
 
 Upon the northern brow fcf the hill, a prospect 
 expands of little less dimensions than that seen 
 from its southern slope. The northern landscape 
 is less interesting than the southern at this time, at 
 presenting only a mass of woods with a few open* 
 ings only, whereas that of the south exhibits an 
 immense surface of cultivated country. 
 
 To me this northern view was highly pleasing, 
 as it first laid before me, upon its back ground, part 
 of the basin of the Canadian sea. Descending the 
 declivity, I gazed upon the blue verge before me 
 as if I had felt myself entering into a new w orld. 
 To me this transition was not illusory. Though 
 upon the same planet, and even upon the same 
 continent, the images I now see around me are go 
 F2 
 
CvZ t'TlCA TO TXIESTOS* [LET* V. 
 
 —13 difierent from thos-e I baye been Tor a long period 
 accustomed to behold, that my sensations would 
 not he much more changed if i was transported to 
 another world in reality. 
 
 I found the surface of the slope as I descended, 
 composed of clay, sand, and immense bodies of 
 rounded pebble. The present state of the interior 
 of North America, exhibits phenomena at every 
 step, which demonstrate that water or some oth- 
 er fluid has flowed over the surface of the land p " 
 
 dS been 
 
 a very great length of time. This fl*»' ' . 
 
 4U * r wi m -iie surface near 
 
 the agent ot modiiication. wm' 
 ,, t. A . uin a state of subiner- 
 
 the Canadian sea conti^" _ 
 
 . Pilule that the lace of the earth 
 
 sion, it is very s> 
 
 _^*frty uniform though inclining When 
 was src~- * . . 
 
 „o waters retired, the drain occasioned by rains 
 
 and springs, were the commencement of our pre- 
 sent rivers, which in the long lapse of ages, have 
 been worn down to their present level. Whilst the 
 land continued submersed, fragments of granite, 
 trap, and other rocks, may have been disrupted 
 from their original beds, and gradually forced for- 
 ward, and whilst in motion rounded by attrition, 
 and finally deposited over more recent formations. 
 As the abrasion of the waters in the new formed 
 rivers deepened their beds, the debris of primitive 
 rocks became exposed, and rolled down in vast bo- 
 dies along the declivities of the hills. This latter 
 process is Use only part of the great geological re- 
 volution, that continues in operation ; the river 
 beds are daily becoming deeper ; strata that for- 
 merly caused cataracts, are many of them com- 
 pletely cut by the streams, and all are yielding t© 
 the force of the ever acting fluid, that passes over 
 their broken ledges. 
 
XET. T.] 
 
 UTICA TO TllEXTOxYc 
 
 MILES. 
 
 — 13 After reaching (he base of (lie hill, on (lie side 
 opposite to (hat of Utiea, commences a sanity 
 legion, which continues to Trenton. Timber near 
 the latter village, hemlock, beech, sugar iiiaple^ 
 elm, ash, and black birch. Though much cleared 
 land appears near the road, I saw but very little 
 winter grain growing in the fields. Demanding of 
 some of the inhabitants the reason, of what ap- 
 peared to me defective husbandly, 1 uniformly re- 
 ceived in reply, that the early and unseasonable 
 thaws during the winter and spring, destroyed the 
 small grain. How far the opinion of the inhabi- 
 tants was founded on correct experience, or upon 
 bad farming, I cannot pretend to determine, but 
 am inclined to ascribe the effect to the latter cause. 
 My own opinion is formed from the appearance of 
 the soil and timber, and from the geographical po- 
 sition of the country. Sugar maple is here so abun- 
 dant, as to form the principal article of fuel used 
 by the inhabitants, and affords them the means of 
 manufacturing a considerable quantity of sugar, 
 an advantage the benefits of which, they have but 
 partially realized. Ever since passing the Little 
 Falls in the Mohawk, I have noticed the constant 
 decrease of every species of oak in the forests ; 
 and since passing Utica, I have had still more rea- 
 son to make this remark. This circumstance is a 
 subject of regret, for many of the most indispen- 
 sable uses in domestic economy and agriculture, 
 no known tree does effectually answer the purpo- 
 ses of oak. Orchards I perceive are rare, and 
 confined almost exclusively to the apple. Neither 
 the climate or soil can be ehargahle with this defi- 
 ciency ; it can only be accounted for in un pardon 
 able neglect. The settlements are, in a consider* 
 
L'TJCA TO TRENT05. 
 
 [LET. V» 
 
 MILE5?. 
 
 —13 Lie pari recent, improvements will follow (lie in- 
 crease of population, wealth, and intelligence. 5 *- 
 
 * The following is from that very valuable citizen Mr. Ray de 
 Chaumont, and was published in the Mercantile Advertiser of the 
 city of New- York, Nov. 1 ith, 18 18. It will be seen that I have the 
 honor to agree in opinion with Mr. Chaumont, as to the true rea- 
 son why orchards are not more frequent in the north-west part of 
 the state of New- York. I do not remember to have ever seen 
 condensed in so few words, the various inducements to planting 
 and cultivating orchards, as in this short, appropriate, and judi- 
 cious address. 
 
 Extract from an Address, pronounced before the Agricultural 
 Society of Jefferson county, at their first annual fair, held at 
 Watertown, Sept. 29, .1818— By J. Le Ray de Chaumont, Pres- 
 ident of the Society. 
 
 " To those who have not been sparing enough of their fencing 
 wood, I would recommend the planting of young hemlock to 
 make hedges. I met with such near Philadelphia, on the farm of 
 Judge Peters, one of the most distinguished agriculturalists of the 
 age, whose example alone must have great weight. 
 
 " It was for some time doubted by many whether this country 
 would ever become favorable to the growth of fruit trees. It is 
 true, that in man) places, the first attempts were rather unsuc- 
 cessful; but as those of a later date have proved more fortunate, I 
 believe that all are convinced this early failure was owing to some 
 temporary cause. Perhaps it might have been found in the na- 
 ture of that part of the soil that lay quite at the surface. Gene- 
 rally, to the depth of from 6 to 10 inches, it is a black mould 
 made by the annual decomposition of the leaves of trees and 
 small vegetables. This mould may be too highly charged with 
 vegetable matter to afford nourishment to fruit trees. At any 
 rate, it has been noticed by many, that though orchards have 
 been planted on such land, and totally failed, yet a new attempt 
 upon the same land, after ploughing several years and warming 
 it with animal manure, has been completely successful. Let 
 this be as it may, it is now well ascertained that few countries in 
 the world are more congenial to the growth of the apple, the 
 plumb, many species of the cherry, and most of the smaller froits^ 
 such as the strawberry, raspberry, and currant, which are found 
 to grow luxuriantly, producing in the greatest abundance. It is 
 much to be regretted that so many have neglected this subject^ 
 >\uce the results of late experiments must have effectually re- 
 moved every doubt as to the success of future attempts. The 
 expense of planting an orchard is trivial, compared with its ad- 
 
TjET. v. 
 
 1JTICA TO TRENTON, 
 
 65 
 
 MILES. 
 
 4 — 17 Remsen, 
 
 A village in (lie right bank of West Canada 
 creek. 
 
 2— 19 L. Hough's. 
 
 3— 22 T. M. tiheldons. 
 1 — 23 Ilalman's. 
 
 3 — 26 llaivleifs. 
 1 — 27 Skinner's. 
 
 I — 31 JBoonvilie upon lite head streams of Black river, 
 
 vantages, considering it merely as a source of profit. But the 
 comfortable luxury it affords is of itself a sufficient inducement; 
 and I might further add, if necessary, that a man of spirit would 
 draw encouragement from the circumstance, that a good orchard 
 is the ornament of a farm, and gives the stranger a favorable 
 opinion of the wealth, taste, comfort and economy of the owner, 
 while on the contrary, the sight of a farm destitute of these use- 
 ful improvements, gives him the idea of barrenness and indolence. 
 Those who have neglected the planting of fruit trees would do 
 well to visit some of the flourishing orchards at a small distance 
 from this village. There they would receive a lively reproof for 
 the past, and great encouragement for amending in future. Some 
 will regret that the owners of those fine orchards have not extend- 
 ed their industry to the cultivation of peach trees. Why would 
 they not grow here, when many years ago a number of those 
 fruits arrived to their due maturity in one of the most northern 
 positions in this country, at the old ferry upon the St Lawrence? 
 But I must give place to a judicious observation made by an ex- 
 perienced gardener lately come into this country. We do not 
 let the the roots of our fruit trees have a sufficient share of cold 
 in the winter. Sometimes, before the ground is sufficiently froz- 
 en to reach the most nutritive roots of our fruits trees, the snow 
 falls, and communicates genial warmth to the earth, which, ac- 
 companied with the melting snow, starts the vegetation too early. 
 Then come the late frosts, which finding the trees too far ad- 
 vanced, give them a check fatal to their production. The reme- 
 dy offered is to take away in the early part of the winter, the 
 snow which surrounds the more delicate of your fruit trees, the 
 one for instances which produces the peach, so as to let the roots 
 have their share of the cold. Then let the snow be the cover 
 which will foster this protecting cold till a period more desirable 
 for the vegetation of the tree." 
 
66 
 
 BEER KlVEK. 
 
 [LET. Y. 
 
 MILES. 
 
 5 — 36 Sugar vkrr. 
 
 One of the main branches of Black river, flow- 
 ing with great rapidity to the eastward in the main 
 stream. Secondary limestone, with little admix- 
 ture of shells, and extremely hard, now forms the 
 base of the country. Timber continues as before 
 noted. The country is very hilly and broken. Black 
 river is in every respect a mountain stream ; the 
 tributary waters which form it flow on each side 
 from very elevated land, when compared with the 
 bed of the principal river. Hills rising very abruptly 
 range along to the west of the road, and now at 
 near the middle of May, are pouring down floods 
 formed by melting snow, masses of which are fre- 
 quently visible from the road, reminding the trav- 
 eller that the chill of winter is not passed. 
 2 — 38 Village of Ley den. 
 
 2 — 40 Ley den Post Office. 
 
 6 — 16 House's. 
 
 3 — 49 Gulf creel:, a large branch of Black river. 
 
 2 — 51 Martinsourg, seat of justice, in and for Lewis* 
 county. Here I remained over night, and on the 
 morning of May 12th, recommenced my journey. 
 
 4 — 55 Louville. 
 <j_64 Wright's. 
 1—65 Deer river , 
 
 A considerable and extremely rapid branch of 
 Black river. Its banks and bed schistose lime, 
 stone, a ledge of which forms a beautiful cascade 
 within fifty yards above the road, which passes the 
 stream at this place over a good substantial wood- 
 en bridge. The river has worn a deep channel 
 whose banks arc nearly perpendicular. Deer river 
 has its source in the same ridge of hills, which pro- 
 duces Salmon river. The very considerable falls 
 which occur in both streams, prove the great el©- 
 
<JjET. T.] 
 
 WATETlTOWtf. 
 
 67 
 
 MILES. 
 
 —6b vation of (heir sources. Salmon river rises, partly 
 in Lewis and partly in Oswego county ; its general 
 course is, however, w *W latter, running west 
 thirty r ^i*-3, enters Mexico Bay of lake Ontario, 
 nventy-Gve miles, a little west of south, from Sack* 
 el's Harbour. Beside a number o-f cataracts of less- 
 er note, this short river has in one instance, a fall of 
 upwards of one hundred feet. 
 
 ■1—66 T. CampbeWs. 
 
 3 — 69 Champion Village, 
 
 6 — 75 Village of Rutland, Tn! lie's tavern. 
 
 This village stands upon a bed of schistose 
 limestone, at the foot of a very high and steep hill. 
 The limestone in many places with a very slight 
 covering. Rising the hill above the village, I had 
 the pleasure to behold an extensive prospect back- 
 wards over the country towards Utica. Between 
 Rutland and Watertown, Black river has a large 
 bend or sweep to the northeast, and a circumstance 
 worthy of note, is, that both branches of the Os- 
 wegatchie have similar and correspondent bends. 
 This adds another to the numerous proofs afforded 
 by the courses of our rivers, that in their original 
 formation, they were influeneed^in many instances, by 
 causes w hich operated over extensive tracts of coun- 
 try, and produced a uniformity w hich strikes forcibly 
 attentive observers, upon our geological phenomena. 
 
 o — 8 1 Watertow n . 
 
 A fine newly built village, on the right hank of 
 Black river, in Jefferson county. A very visible 
 change is now apparent in the soil and timber, and 
 surface of (he country. From Utica to Deer river, 
 hemlock swamps are frequent, much of the road pass- 
 es these swamps, on causeways or round logs, pro- 
 ducing very tiresome and tedious travelling. These 
 
6$ 
 
 SROWXVILLE. 
 
 [LET. T. 
 
 MIXES. 
 
 — 81 swamps become rare, since passing Deer river, 
 and before reaching Watertown entirely cease. 
 Oak and hickory now intermixes with the other 
 species of timber trees <h e composition of the 
 forests. Hemlock has become scarce. rv\ ie SU p er „ 
 stratum of the soil, is a black loam, iaterm>^ 
 with rounded pebbles, resting upon a base of strata- 
 fied limestone. Fields of small grain are here 
 visible in every direction, and in many places 
 where the stratum of incumbent soil above the 
 limestone, is so scanty as would seem to preclude 
 culture. Good thriving orchards of apple and pear 
 trees also abound. 
 
 At Watertown, Black river has worn a channel 
 into the solid limestone of forty or fifty feet in 
 depth, The river is about sixty yards wide, and 
 has by far the most rapid current of any river, 
 great or small, that I have ever seen ; it may, 
 indeed, be considered from its source to its mouth 
 as a chain of rapids, interpersed occasionally with 
 placid intervals, which are compensated by falls, 
 of from 10 to 70 feet perpendicular. Black 
 river is, in point of size, the third stream whose 
 entire course is in the state of New- York. The 
 quantity of water in its current at this season, is 
 no doubt, above the medium of its volume, but at 
 all times this stream must discharge a body of 
 water greater than would be expected from its 
 comparative length on our maps. 
 4—8 5 Brownville. 
 
 Leaving Watertown, the road crosses Black river 
 on a fine wooden bridge, and continues to Brown- 
 ville along the bank of Black river, over a bed of 
 limestone, in many places naked rock without any 
 vegetable earth, trees often standing upon the 
 smooth surface of the stone, and only prevented 
 
LY.T. V.] 
 
 BUOWNVILLE. 
 
 69 
 
 MILES. 
 
 — -85 from falling by extending their roots between the 
 interstices of the rock. 
 
 About half a mile below Watertown, the river 
 rushes over a rapid of more than four hundred yards 
 in length. Lined on both banks by precipices of 
 limestone, upon which, the stream impetuous as it 
 is, can make but a very slow impression. Dashing 
 w ith apparently irresistible force, the rage of the 
 current is repelled by the rough shelving shores. 
 Where the road passes near this cataract, the river 
 is one sheet of foam, presenting a scene of grandeur 
 much superior to what would be commonly ex- 
 pected from the supposed diminutive volume of 
 water. 
 
 The village of Brownville is indebted for not 
 only fits name, but its existence also, to that dis- 
 tinguished American general, Jacob Brown, who 
 has his family residence within its precincts. The 
 village is built upon the right bank of Black river. 
 A cataract with a perpendicular fall of 15 or 20 
 feet, opposite the village, has afforded a very eligi- 
 ble site for mills, which has been improved. A 
 substantial wooden bridge has been extended over 
 Black river above the mills. I passed this place 
 in a heavy rain, and had not so good an opportunity 
 of observing its position as I could have desired. 
 From all I could perceive, the village and the ad- 
 jacent country exhibited marks of prosperity and 
 rapid improvement. 
 
 Black river continues below Brownville its ordi- 
 nary rapidity for about two miles, where it is lost 
 in the head of the former bay de Nivernois, a small 
 part of which forms the well known Bucket's Har- 
 bor. 
 
 The road after crossing Brownville bridge, winds 
 
SACKfeT*S 11AUB0K. 
 
 {IMT. VI. 
 
 MILES, 
 
 — 35 about three miies down the valley of Black river, 
 then rises upon the fiat table land, and continues 
 five miles farther over a bed of schistose limestone, 
 to the village of 
 8—93 Suckers Harbor. 
 At (he time I travelled in this quarter, the public stage 
 stopped at Watertown, and travellers were obliged to hire car- 
 riages from individuals. My company and myself were ahlc 
 to procure only open waggons ; and as disappointment or 
 any other kind of misfortune seldom comes unattended, the 
 moment we set out from Watertown, commenced a heavv 
 and cold rain, which continued to fall in torrents during our 
 journey of twelve miles to Saeket's Harbor, where we ar- 
 rived chilly, wet and hungry, at a little after 9 P. M. The 
 village affords very good entertainment, and its cheer was 
 never much more welcome than to the cavalcade of which 
 I made a part. 
 
 Yours sincerely. 
 
 LETTER VI, 
 
 Backers Harbor, May %2th 9 1818, 
 
 Bear Sir, 
 
 Buownvixle and Saeket's Harbor, but particularly 
 the latter, have gained both in extent and celebrity by the 
 late war with Great Britain. The residence of the land and 
 naval forces of the United States have been, and continue to 
 be of great advantages to the citizens of Sacket's Harbor. 
 This town stands upon the south-west side of the bay, N. jat. 
 
fiET". VI.] 
 
 SACKET 9 S HARBOR. 
 
 71 
 
 43°, 56*. W. long. 76°. from London, or l p . east of Washing- 
 ton city. The bay and harbor are both well situated for 
 shelter and defence. It is in some measure, land locked by 
 two large, and some smaller islands, standing in the mouth 
 of tlie bay eight miles distant to the west, from the village* 
 Chaumont bay, is an embranchment of the same sheet of 
 water which forms the harbour below the mouth of Black 
 river. Chaumont bay does not contain as good anchorage* 
 nor does the position of its shores render it so favourable a 
 site, either as a naval, military, or commercial depot as the 
 bay, now known as Saeket's Harbor. The latter is perhaps 
 one of the best situations in the world for ship building. A 
 narrow and low crescent of land extends from the lower ex- 
 tremity of the village, and forms an inner and outer harbour f 
 the latter within two fathoms of the shore has depth of wa- 
 ter for the largest ships of the line, that can be formed. The 
 vessels can be framed on nearly a level with the water, and 
 launched with the greatest case. The depth of water con- 
 tinues to the mouth of Black river, near which another very 
 excellent position exists for the construction of ships, either 
 of war or commerce. In each of those places of ship archi- 
 tecture, now lie the hull of a first rate man of war. One of 
 which, at Saeket's, the New-Om-eans, I have seen. Be^ 
 fore seeing this enormous vessel, 1 had no idea of the im„ 
 rnensity of ship building. Under her stern, I really felt a 
 sentiment of awe, when by an upward glance, I received the 
 wide sweeping and towering arch of her swelling sides. I had 
 seen the Franklin on the stocks, near Philadelphia, and had 
 been frequently on board of that vessel after she w as launch- 
 ed ; I had been on board of the Independence in the harbour 
 of Boston ; and had also seen under sail, the British 71, 
 Plantagenet. AH of those ships are large according to their 
 rate, but neither gave me an adequate conception of the 
 immensity of a first rate ship of the line, a conception I 
 never formed, until I traversed, from prow to stern, the 
 New-Orleans. Sunk beneath the surface of the water, the 
 
72 
 
 sacket's harbor. 
 
 [let VI, 
 
 hull of a line of hatlle ship when launched, is concealed, 
 leaving to view her more shewy, but less substantial upper 
 works, but while on the stocks, the vastness of this intended 
 battery is visible. 
 
 The naval officers have erected an immense frame building 
 over the New-Orleans. Under the shelter of a close roof, 
 her timbers will rather gain in quality than deteriorate 
 by time. She now stands, in silent, but in terrible prepara- 
 tion. A stair way leads from her prow, to the highest part 
 of her stern, ending in a railed balcony with seats, from 
 which in one comprehensive prospect is included, the town, 
 barracks, harbour and adjacent shores. An ascent to this 
 singular observatory > is amongst the most interesting treats 
 awaiting the traveller to Sacket's. Captain Woolsey, the 
 commodore upon this station, exercises the most laudable 
 politeness towards strangers ; his kindness enabled me to 
 enjoy this, which is one of the most gratifying pleasures of 
 my life. 
 
 Very excellent stone barracks stand upon the bank of the 
 bay, about 400 yards east of the village. The material is the 
 blue schistose limestone, which forms the base of the whole 
 adjacent neighborhood. The barracks are in the form of 
 three sides of a parallelogram, enclosing the approaches on 
 *he side land, the face towards the bay is open. 
 
 May lith. I had the double pleasure of seeing the bar- 
 racks, and on their parade a review given in honor of gen. 
 Winfieid Scott. Gens. Brown, Scott, and their suits were 
 present. The troops made a very respectable appearance, 
 though the weather was unfavorable for their evolutions. 
 
 1 would have examined more extensively, the vicinity of 
 Sacket's Harbor, but the season was so continually incle- 
 ment during my stay, that my excursions were necessarily 
 very limited. 
 
 Tours with respect and esteem. 
 
t;et. vii.] 
 
 HAMILTON* 
 
 LETTER VII. 
 
 Hamilton, May 19/fc, 1818. 
 
 Dear Sir, 
 
 I departed from Sachet's Harbor on Saturday last, and 
 reached this neighborhood on Sunday afternoon. The weath- 
 er during the voyage, and since my arrival, has been very 
 unfavorable for either extensive or accurate observation* I 
 found one circumstance, however, remarkable ; the season is 
 much more forward below than above the Thousand Islands. 
 From Sachet's Harbor to the entrance into the St. Lawrence, 
 the shores presented all the desolation of winter ; the birch 
 was the only forest tree (hat indicated approaching spring. 
 This backwardness continued until we passed the Thousand 
 Islands; below which, though advancing northward, an evi- 
 dent change was visible. The sugar tree, willow, birch, and 
 many shrubs and other vegetables, were in considerable ad- 
 vance. The fields on the Canada shore, from the greater 
 exposure to the sun, were more advanced than those oppo- 
 site, in New- York. 
 
 I have now seen, and navigated part of the surface of the 
 two most majestic rivers of North America ; and as far 
 as I have observed, no two streams on earth afford features 
 of more marked contrast. Before visiting i?s banks, I had 
 always considered the St. Lawrence as commencing' oppo- 
 site Kingston ; but the current is not perceptible, until whir 
 in about ten miles above this village. In tti&iiy places the 
 river, as it is improperly called, is four or five miles wide, 
 and chequered with islands, of infinite variety of shape and 
 size. In fact, it is a continuation of Lake Ontario ten or 
 twelve miles below Ogdensburg, where the true St. Law- 
 rence begins to flow. 
 
 On leaving Sackct's Harbor, the ad jacent shores of the 
 main,, and those of the islands, are low, and composed of 
 
 G 
 
?4 
 
 ItlVEU ST. LAWKEACE. 
 
 [LET. VII. 
 
 what in geognostie language, is called floefz limestone, ad- 
 mixed with animal exuvise. The border of the lake is uni- 
 formly low, not being elevated above (be water more than 
 three or four feet ; (he debris thrown up by the action of the 
 lake, are rounded pebbles of limestone, with a very few 
 fragments of someolher kind of stone. The timber, sugar 
 tree, pine, linden, elm, oak. ((wo or three species, though 
 scarce) — birch, and beech ; soil extremely fertile. When 
 at some distance from the shore, the high hills near the 
 source of Black river, and between Utica and Oswego, are 
 seen far inland. 
 
 This uniformity remains with but little interruption, until 
 the entrance of St. Lawrence ; here (he islands are many 
 of them thirty qr forty feet elevated above the water. — 
 What is called the Thousand Islands, seems to be a gra- 
 ttite chain w hich crosses the river, and divides its bed into 
 a maze, intricate beyond imagination ; a scene more savage, 
 rude, and wild, does not perhaps any where exist on earth. 
 The placid and most purely limpid water, reflects the bro- 
 ken rocks, and the few trees and shrubs that rise amid 
 their fractured ruins. No human habitation appears, to en- 
 liven for an instant this picture of eternal waste. Passing 
 this region of silent desolation, a fairy scene opens ; a scene 
 that to me was the more delightful, because unexpected. 
 Where the Thousand Islands terminate, the river opens first 
 into a kind of bay, and then in two or three miles again con 
 tracts ; the shore rising on each bank by a gentle acclivity, 
 presents a country I have never before seen equalled, in res- 
 pect either to soil or situation. The Ohio, beautiful as are 
 its banks, affords in all its extent, nothing comparable to 
 the banks of St. Lawrence, from the Thousand Islands to 
 this place. The Canada side is by far the best cultivated* 
 and as I have already remarked, possesses the advantages 
 of more exposure to the sun. For many miles the margin 
 of this river appears like a well cultivated garden. The 
 
XET. VII.] 
 
 HAMILTON. 
 
 American or U. S. shore, exhibits rapid improvement, and 
 Ogdensburgh and this place are flourishing new villages. 
 J will write you more at large shorty. Adieu for the pre- 
 sent. 
 
 May Wlh 1S18. 
 After enclosing the within, and returning to our camp, 
 Major Frascr arrived, in the evening* I accompanied him 
 to (his village to-day, and finding that my letter was still on 
 hand, I opened it, to convey to you and Mrs. Darby, the la- 
 test news of my proceedings. Gen. Porter is not yet arrived, 
 •but no doubt will in two or three days. The principal sur- 
 veyor on the side of Great Britain, has not arrived, but is 
 hourly expected. We will, perhaps, commence business on 
 the boundary line, in the ensuing week. 
 
 The season continues unpleasant, and though rain does not 
 fall in any great quantities, it is frequent. The river St. 
 Lawrence is about two feet perpendicular above its ordina- 
 ry level, and slowly rising, and will no doubt fall as slowly. 
 Notwithstanding, however, the chilly air produced by sa 
 much moisture, spring advances daily, and promises a sea 
 son more pleasant. The atmosphere, and the present state 
 of vegetation, have a remarkable resemblance to similar phe- 
 nomena in lower Louisiana, early in March. From what 1 
 have seen, I have no doubt but that June and July are here, 
 as every where else in North America, the most agreeable 
 months in the year. 
 
OOli E ft S B V 11 G H. 
 
 [LET. VIII. 
 
 LETTER Vlit. 
 
 Ogdensburgh, June 28, 1818. 
 You have, no doubt, seen in the public prints some state- 
 merits respecting a man of the name of Gourlay, who is now 
 making a political tour through the Canadas. The day be- 
 fore yesterday, a township meeting w as called directly oppo- 
 site our camp, which terminated in a riot, in which Mr. 
 Gourlay was severely beaten. I have not been able to learn, 
 with any certainty, what object this man has in view r ; no 
 doubt, however, but more is meant than meets the eye. He 
 is not long from England. If any symptoms cf revolutiou 
 should appear in these provinces, the exciting cause must be 
 in Europe. Neither the population or position of the coun- 
 try, are suited to contend with the British Government^ un- 
 less the other parts of the empire were also in a revolution- 
 ary state. 
 
 The inhabitants of Canada appear to be very happy and 
 contented with their situation, and with their government 
 generally. What they could gain by a revolution in the 
 present order of things, I must confess I cannot compre- 
 hend. 
 
 The commerce carried on upon the St. Lawrence is im- 
 mensely greater than we in the United States commonly be- 
 lieve. Hie single article of lumber must employ very con- 
 siderable numbers. Rafts are passing almost constantly. 
 Flour and many other articles are exported to a very great 
 amount. The entire line of the Canada side of the river 
 from Montreal and even from Quebec, is well peopled and 
 cultivated. 
 
 Since writing the above, I have seen a National Intelligen- 
 cer, containing some notices of Gourlay, and explaining 
 who he is and from whence he originated. The substance 
 of this communication is no doubt true, and obliges me to 
 
XET. VIII.] 
 
 POLITICAL. 
 
 77 
 
 believe (hat, as I have before staled, (here is more than 
 meets the eye in this business. The magistrates of Upper 
 Canada are much at a loss to know how they ought to pro- 
 ceed.* 
 
 * This embarrassment does not seem to have been removed, 
 as will be seen by the following extracts from the proceedings of 
 the Colonial legislature of Upper Canada. From the expressions 
 used by the governor in his address, he has viewed the operations 
 of Gourlay as a serious affair; and so it may become, if any very 
 coercive remedy is applied. The governor and his council ex- 
 press respect for the constitutional right of petition, and they are 
 correct in their cautionary proceedings on that subject ; any open 
 attempt to abridge the liberty of remonstrance might lead to a 
 recurrence to the last resource of the oppressed. g A law of pre- 
 vention may operate by inflaming the malady it will be intended 
 to cure. 
 
 Fork, (TJ. C.J Oct. 20. The speech of the governor, sir Peri- 
 grine Maitland, on the opening of the parliament of Upper Cana- 
 da, contains the following paragraph in relation to the conven- 
 tion : 
 
 " In the course of your investigation you will, I doubt not, feet 
 a just indignation at the attempt which has been made to excite 
 discontent, and to organize sedition. Should it appear to you 
 that a convention of delegates cannot exist without danger to the 
 constitution, in framing a law of prevention, your dispassionate 
 wisdom will be careful that it shall not unwarily trespass on that 
 sacred right of the subject to seek a redress of his grievances by 
 petition. 7 ' 
 
 To this passage, the legislative council made the following re- 
 
 " We shall at all times feel a just indignation at every attempt 
 which may excite discontent or organize sedition, and if it shall 
 appear to us that a convention of delegates cannot exist without 
 danger to the constitution, in framing a law of prevention, we 
 will be careful that this shall not, unwarily, trespass on the sacred 
 right of the subject, to seek a redress of his grievances by peti- 
 tion." 
 
 To the same paragraph, the commons house of assembly re- 
 ply as follows : 
 
 " We feel a just indignation at the systematic attempts that 
 have been made to excite discontent and organize sedition in 
 this happy colony, whilst the usual and constitutional mode of 
 appeal for real or supposed grievances has ever been open to the 
 people of this province, never refused or even appealed to, and 
 
 G2 
 
78 
 
 POLITICAL. 
 
 .LET. VII J.. 
 
 My opportunity of observing either the political or moral 
 situation of the people of Canada, has been too limited to 
 enable me to form a very correct opinion upon their views ; 
 but from all 1 have seen or heard, I am inclined to consider, 
 that the temper of the people of Canada is much the same 
 as that of the inhabitants of the colonies, which formed the 
 present United States, previous to their secession from the 
 parent stale. Whilst Great Britain, continues to exercise 
 moderation towards her colonies in Canada, so long her pow- 
 er over them will remain unimpaired. Any exertion of au- 
 thority, however, that will in any manner compromit t\m 
 rights of the Canadians, will dissolve the spell, that pre 
 scriplive habit has formed between the rulers and the ruled. 
 The history of Great Britain would hardly justify an ex- 
 pectation, that the political proceedings of its government, 
 will be conducted prudently, in all cases, towards any peo- 
 ple subjected to her power. AVe would risk little in suppo- 
 sing, that some indiscreet ministry will repeat towards Canada 
 similar folly to that which severed from the mother country 
 the United States. As matters now stand, a serious rupture 
 cannot be expected, nor would be prudent on either side. 
 
 There is auother light, in which the people of Canada of- 
 fer an interesting spectacle to those of the United States; 
 that is an approaching union or rivalry. In cither case, ti c 
 latter people will be greatly affected by the former. Though 
 speaking the same language, enjoying a similar system of 
 
 deeply lament that the insidious designs of one factious individual 
 should have succeeded in drawing into the support of his vile ma- 
 chinations, so many honest men and loyal subjects to his majes- 
 ty We remember that this favored laud was assigned to our fa- 
 thers as a retreat for suffering loya!ty, and not a sanctuary for 
 sedition. In the course of our investigation, should it appear to 
 this house that a convention of delegates cannot exist without 
 danger to the constitution, in framing a law of prevention, Ave 
 will carefully distinguish between such convention and the lawful 
 act of the subject in petitioning for a redress of real or imaginary 
 grievances, that sacred right of every British subject which we 
 will ever hold inviolable.' 5 
 
T.ET. VIII.] 
 
 POLITIC A Ti. 
 
 79 
 
 jurisprudence, and regulated in their private conduct by (lie 
 same religion, yet in political opinion, a wide difference ex- 
 ists between the Canadians and the people of ihe United 
 States. In the latter country, one generation has passed 
 away since the memorable revolution, that gave them na- 
 tional birth ; the men that now act upon the theatre of pub- 
 lic affairs have been bred republicans, and such tlfey are in 
 custom, manners and form. The Canadians have been edu- 
 cated, at the same time,, in the highest tone of royally. One 
 party views the trappings of regal pageantry with contempt, 
 the other considers attempered monarchy, as the surest gua- 
 rantee of private right. Both have a strong sense of human 
 dignity, both consider governments instituted for the protec- 
 tion, and not oppression of society ; both feel the amor pat- 
 ria with al! its force. 
 
 If Canada was by any means made an integral of the 
 United States, and like Louisiana, given a legislative equali- 
 ty in the national councils, the force of the preconceived 
 opinions of its inhabitants would soon be felt. By a singu- 
 lar inconsistency, the men who in our last war with Great 
 Britain, were anxious for a conquest of Canada, were also, 
 as a party, those who had every thing to fear from the ac- 
 complishment of their own wishes. In case of union, it de- 
 mands but little foresight to anticipate the consequence. 
 
 Many citizens of the United States will smile at the sug- 
 gestion of rivalry, between their country and Canada. For- 
 ty-three years ago, so smiled the ministry of Great Britain. 
 The march of time, and the developement of events, have 
 taught the administration of that haughty government, a 
 lesson of bitter experience. I wish our nation may profit, 
 by one of the most astonishing events in human history,* an 
 event that gave it a name on earth, and an event that ought 
 to convince the world, how little dependance there is in the 
 stability of comparative power. Every year gives me more 
 and more scepticism, respecting worldly wisdom. Accident 
 
BO rOLITICAXi. [LET. Till, 
 
 seems to disturb and influence, if not regulate the progress 
 of nations. 
 
 The work! at this moment, presents very nearly the same 
 evidence that has been given by every country and every 
 age, that wisdom and foresight but rarely have much influ- 
 ence, in producing extensive revolutions. So much depends 
 upon circ.umsti.nces, beyond all our powers of calculation? 
 that in almost every instance of human history, the events 
 Lave been productive of consequences, directly contrary to 
 prediction. A few, and a very limited few, have ever pos- 
 sessed talent enough, to form correct estimates of the real 
 bearing of great commotions among mankind. Effects are 
 continually mistaken for causes. 
 
 If we date the civilization of those nations from whom we 
 are descended, and from whom we have derived our arts and 
 opinions, from the discovery of the alphabet, there will be 
 exhibited a period of about thirty centuries of accumulated 
 experience. Precepts have been deduced from example, 
 with how little fruit the present moral condition of man, is a 
 melancholy proof. There are many irrefragible reasons, 
 however, to convince an unprejudiced mind, that this appa- 
 rent hopeless depression of the human intellect, has been 
 produced from causes that admit removal. The exalted ele- 
 vation of the human understanding, in lite principles of many 
 sciences, would warrant the induction, that if ever the most 
 valuable of all sciences, happiness, could be duly compre- 
 hended, the means to secure it would become attainable. 
 Hitherto we have been taught to consider our social state, 
 sis a remediless scene of suffering. We have bartered the 
 certainty of happiness on earth, for lessons of metaphysics, 
 upon the principles of which no two of our teachers have 
 ever been of accord. We have given the sv?eat of our brow, 
 to the most idle and useless of our species, and have received 
 stripes and contumely in exchange. We have divided our 
 attention between the wretchedness of the thousand and the 
 glitter of the one. Our ears have been assailed with the 
 
LET. VIII.] 
 
 POLITICAL. 
 
 SI 
 
 cries of hunger and slavery, or regaled with the orgies of 
 pampered luxury. 
 
 Let no one deny the truth of the above, and bring the 
 United States as an example of Us fallacy. The people of 
 the United States form a very small part of the human fam- 
 ily, and are themselves far from being improved to the ut- 
 most, or absolutely secured against retrogradation. They 
 nevertheless aiford evidence of an entire change in opinion, 
 a change against which sceptres and mitres will in vain con- 
 tend. Europe has by no means recovered from the conse- 
 quences of the fall of the Roman Empire. Afflicting as it 
 may be, it is a fact, there exists not one well coalesced gov- 
 ernment in Europe, except France. No ether political as- 
 sociation, but is composed of shreds of heterogeneous ma- 
 terials, either in a state of anarchy or forced connexion. 
 Nothing has appeared to shew that the monarchs of the 
 day have any adequate conception of producing any better 
 state of things. 
 
 It may not be irrelevant to our subject, to view the nations 
 of Europe as they now stand, in relative numbers. To gain 
 any philosophical result, language must be the line of di- 
 vision and comparison ; it is the only durable mark of dis- 
 tinction. At this time there are in Europe about thirty mil- 
 lions who speak French ; thirty millions who speak Ger- 
 man and its dialects ; between thirty-live and forty millions 
 who speak Sclavonian and its dialects; twenty millions who 
 use the Italian ; fifteen millions of English ; about an equal 
 number of Spaniards and of modern Greeks. The Turks, 
 though in Europe for upwards of 350 years, are still foreign- 
 ers, and few in number. 
 
 It is singular that, except the French, none of the nations 
 of Europe are formed out of, and contain masses who speak 
 the same language. The political divisions have arose from 
 blind chance, or the people have been driven together by vi- 
 olence. The art of government, as directed towards its on- 
 ly legitimate ends* the security, protection* and instruction 
 
POLITICAL* 
 
 [LET. VI1T. 
 
 of the great body of naticns, h not even in its infancy ; as a 
 science it exists nat. This b a bold, but unfortunately true 
 assertion. The feudal system reigns in all its pristine 
 strength, as far as the abstract science of government is con- 
 cerned. 
 
 There appears to have been a curious mixture of supersti- 
 tion and ferocity in the character cf the northern nations^ 
 who overcame the Roman Empire. Either employed in 
 acts of cruelty, or piety — building churches or castles. From 
 this bent of the human mind, has arisen the principle, that 
 produced the present corporate establishments of Europe, 
 Every thing bends either to religion or war. Schools, colle- 
 ges, and academies, are directed either by soldiers or priests* 
 The revenues cf the various states, are expended on schemes 
 of ambition, or paid to men who are worse than idle. 
 
 Whole nations, the same in language, customs, manners^ 
 and dress, are kept artfully in a slate of hostility ; such as 
 the Germans, Italians, and now the English. Kations who 
 differ in every respect, have no common interest, are stran- 
 gers to each oilier, and w ho by a difference of language, are 
 prevented from forming any tie of sympathy, arc united un- 
 der one monarch : such are the Germans, Bohemians, and 
 Hungarians ; such are the Italians and Germans ; such am 
 the Dutch and Belgians ; such the English, Irish, and 
 Scotch ; such are the Russians, Poles, and Einns, and such 
 are the Turks and modern Greeks. 
 
 With stieh systems of government, can any wonder be ex- 
 cited that hatred and contempt should prevail every where. 
 The people are kept in a state of profound ignorance of 
 their rights, have long abandoned any conception of asserting 
 that, for them were all governments instituted, and hy them 
 ought all governments to be administered. A haughty 
 aristocracy, and cringing hierarchy, possess the execution and 
 fruits of power; the creator of the goods of life, the farm- 
 er and artisan, depressed, wretched and poor, haye retained 
 
LET. fWI.] 
 
 POLITICAL- 
 
 the possession of scarce enough of the things (hey themselves 
 have? made, to preserve existence. 
 
 The truth of this picture cannot be denied. It may seem 
 difficult to account for such gross ignorance, such apathy, 
 and such forbearance in society ; but when the sources from 
 which the instruction of the people are examined, the phe- 
 nomenon of their degradation vanishes. That German 
 .should be arrayed against i^ernjan ; Jiaiian against Italian, 
 and English against English, and that the most enlightened 
 nations of the globe in many other respe< ts 3 should in the 
 most important of all their concerns, moral government, be 
 still in the most barbarous state, cannot excite astonishment, 
 when it is known how little has been done to instruct, and 
 how much to brutify man, 
 
 A few, an invaluable few have existed in Europe, who 
 have labored silently to raise the species from their wretched 
 slate, have endeavored to inspire men with ideas of their own 
 dignity, and have been rewarded with persecution from the 
 rulers, and neglect from the ruled. Speculators, innovators, 
 infidels, and all the vocabulary of abuse, have been lavished 
 upon their heads ; even the word philosophy itself, has been 
 changed to an epithet, ami applied to the most w ise and be- 
 nevolent plans. 
 
 The struggle between good sense and power, has continu- 
 ed wit Si daily increasing violence, since the invention of print- 
 ing. How (his contest is to terminate, it is now difficult to 
 predict ; but such is the powerful aid given to reason by the 
 press, that the best result may be hope d. The French rev- 
 olution was nothing more than an effect of this long?opposi- 
 tion of prescriptive usurpation, against a relinquishment of 
 power. Those who view the triumph of despotism as com- 
 plete, know little of human nature, and less of the ordinary 
 course of things in the world. Every symptom evinces an 
 approaching storm, of perhaps tenfold more violence, than 
 the one so lately abated. That the potentates of Europe 
 will be compelled to accede to the wishes of their subjects, and 
 
cS4 
 
 POLITICAL, 
 
 [LET. VIII. 
 
 participate, rather than engross the sovereign authority, or 
 agam defend their antique rule by the sword, is very cer- 
 tain. Whether, after long and reiterated abortive attempts, 
 the gross of society will crouch to an Asiatic principle of 
 divine right, or succeed in forming more rational, and of 
 course more stable forms of government, will be soon de- 
 termined. 
 
 Upon this approaching whirlwind, the people of the United 
 States look with their accustomed indifference, little aware 
 how much their own affairs must be influenced by the issue; 
 Living under a form of government, having many of the 
 most seductive features of the feudal system, we are far 
 from having any other guarantee than our own prudence, 
 against the ordinary ill effects that have been experienced in 
 every instance, where that system has been tried. In our 
 state, and confederated governments, we are feudal in a high 
 degree. If not prevented by a train of extremely fortunate 
 events, our posterity must one day And, that neither .similar- 
 ity of language or opinion, can secure them against the con- 
 sequences of ambition, pride and violence. Religious or 
 moral precepts, are but feeble barriers against the evil pro- 
 pensities of the human heart. We have, however, two insu- 
 perable advantages, that do more for our security than 
 our so much boasted institutions : — the PRESS and FREE 
 SUFFRAGE. Whilst legislators and rulers can be drag- 
 ged before society, and adjudged without evasion, so long 
 will our institutions remain inviolate, and their provisions 
 applied to the intended purpose ; but when the right of suf- 
 frage is retrenched* and when, if so deplorable an event 
 ever does occur in our history, our press is subjected to the 
 control of rulers, then, in crimes, deception, pride, and de- 
 gradation ; in insolence and tears, our posterity will continue 
 to exhibit the same disgusting picture that human nature has 
 afforded, since its acts have been first put on record. 
 
 There now exists two English nations, who are, with all 
 their moral resemblance, politically separate, and opposed 
 
XET. Till.] 
 
 POLITICAL. 
 
 85 
 
 to each other in views of commerce and national power ; 
 and to these may be added another, in Canada. And on 
 this continent, may also be repeated the violent contention of 
 two fragments ot a congenerous people. Whether the rivalry 
 or forced union, would be the greatest source of mutual in- 
 jury, can scarce be made a question. With a very limited 
 share of forbearance, it would be infinitely preferable, for 
 the happiness of each party, to remain independent ; and 
 should the folly, ambition, or cupidity of either or both, 
 involve them in national disputes, the transitory evil of 
 war, could not be much worse than that of perpetual mis- 
 trust, the necessary consequence of a connection without uni- 
 ty of sentiment. 
 
 Canada, with the other British possessions in North A- 
 merica, exhibit, in one respect, a singular contrast with 
 their forner colonies along the Atlantic coast. At the mo- 
 ment of their revolt, the thirteen original states of our con- 
 federacy, extended in a long narrow, and very accessible 
 strip, nearly parallel to the shores of the Atlantic ocean. 
 The inhabited parts of Cabotia, or British North America, # 
 on the contrary, presents a very confined and unapproachable 
 front towards the ocean, with an immense line winding far 
 into the interior of the continent. From its local position* 
 if safe from an attack in flank, a much less force would 
 be able to defend Canada, than w as necessary to preserve 
 the inde pendence of the United States. 
 
 Presenting, in common with the U nited States, a long and 
 apparently an exposed and weak line of frontier, yet even 
 on that side, the Canadas have been found very defensible ; 
 but in front, towards the Atlantic, this country would be ex- 
 tremely difficult to attack successfully. No doubt the day 
 is approaching, when a trial must be made, how far this peo- 
 ple are capable of maintaining their claim to nationality. 
 
 * Cabotia, in honor of Cabot the original discoverer, is the 
 very appropriate name given by the British geographers, to the 
 vast regions claimed upon this continent by the British crown. 
 
H6 
 
 POLITICAL. 
 
 [let. vtit. 
 
 You will naturally feel some surprise, at the little notice I 
 liave taken of the circumstance of the diversity of nations, 
 which compose the population of the Canadas. In my opin- 
 ion, that diversity is not of much consequence, in the view 
 we are taking of this country. The descendants of the 
 French do, particularly in Lower Canada, form a large part 
 of the mass of society, but in Upper Canada, and the east- 
 ern provinces of Nova Scotia and Aew Brunswick, the off- 
 spring or natives of the British islands, are more numerous 
 than all other classes of society taken together; and in all 
 parts of the British colonies in this quarter, are not only the 
 ruling but the efficient people. At present the French are 
 generally passive, though no doubt in a great measure dispo- 
 sed, if any probability of success offered, to oppose in con- 
 cert with the other inhabitants, the British government, and 
 will follow the current of events, flow as it may. Active 
 and gallantly, as did the French of Louisiana conduct them- 
 selves during the British invasion of that country, and with 
 all their habitual hatred of the British name, I saw enough 
 to convince me, that their conduct would have been very 
 passive, had not gen. Jackson acted with uncommon inspi- 
 ring energy. Indeed, if I know the French character cor- 
 rectly, the very striking contrast it often exhibits, between 
 extraordinary decision and passiveness, is not confined to the 
 descendants of that nation, in either Louisiana or Canada. 
 
 Detesting as I do all conquest, not rendered imperatively 
 necessary for self security, I would always consider an at- 
 tempt on the part of the United States to conquer Canada, 
 as in the highest degree impolitic ; and in any incorporation* 
 without the free consent of the people, excessively unjust* 
 It is a conquest, however, that the British officers seem to 
 consider an object of national policy, on the part of our 
 government. Mr. Bouchette, in his work on the Canadas, 
 page &9t, observes that « The views of the United States, 
 « with respect to Canada have been too unequivocally de- 
 " monstratcd to leave a shadow of uncertainty, as to their 
 
XET. IX.] 
 
 POltTlCAl. 
 
 87 
 
 " ultimate object $ and as the preservation of this valuable 
 « colony has always been deemed worthy of Our strenuous 
 <• efforts, we cannot be too touch on our guard against the 
 <• slow working policy, by which that government endeavors 
 < k to compass its ends, or too heedful in adopting precaution- 
 " ary measures to avert a threatening danger, however re- 
 <* mote it may at iirst appear." 
 
 Bouchette is a respectable writer, and a native of Canada ; 
 he, it appears, Uas been, however, cither deceived, as it res- 
 pects the real views of the United States, or he charges our 
 government with what, if true, would be gross folly. Cana- 
 da, w ith all its loyalty, has been rather a charge than a ben- 
 efieiary appendage to Great Britain ; to the republic an in- 
 stitutions of the United States, it would be a dead weight. 
 Our empire is already too extensive to be easily governed, if 
 the whole surface was well peopled. An accession of terri- 
 tory with reluctant or refractory citizens, would be worse 
 than an unprofitable incumbrance. Adieu. 
 
 LETTER IX, 
 
 Ogdemhirgh, July ±7ih, 181 
 
 Bear Sir, 
 
 The Commissioners are advancing with the survey of the 
 St. Lawrence river, and its islands, in order to designate the 
 boundary line, between the United States and Upper Canada. 
 The operations of last year terminated about a mile above 
 Ogden's Island, opposite the village of Hamilton, where we 
 commenced this season, and have progressed to a little above 
 
ST. lAWREKCE RlVES. 
 
 [JLET. IX. 
 
 this village. The survey is conducted with great precision, 
 but with a consequent slowness, that is extremely incompat- 
 ible with my views, and induces me, together wiih some oth- 
 er reasons, to quit the business and proceed on a tour to the 
 westward, through New-York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Michi- 
 gan, and Upper Canada. I expect to set out in the Steam- 
 Boat to-morrow, on my way to Sacket's Harbor, and Buffa- 
 lo, and Detroit. 
 
 1 have already mentioned to you, in a former communica- 
 tion, that the St. Lawrence, properly speaking, commences 
 near this town, as above this place a very slight current is 
 perceptible. 1 have been engaged In surveying the Gallop 
 rapids and island^, at the head of which the strong currents 
 first commences. A map of this very curious group is en- 
 closed, which will serve to exhibit the peculiar constructor* 
 of the St. Lawrence islands. 
 
 Whenever I attempt a general or detailed description of 
 this beautiful river, I feel the difficulty of the undertaking;, 
 from its dissimilarity to any oilier stream with which you 
 are acquainted. I doubt indeed, if it has any near parallel 
 upon our globe. Though I may not succeed in giving you 
 any very precise conceptions of its more minute features, I 
 hope to place before you such a picture of its general physi- 
 ognomy, as will enable you, with your accustomed force of 
 fancy, to form an adequate idea of its great outline. Though 
 in compliance with the common mode of expression, I call 
 the St. Lawrence a river, j et according to the principles laid 
 down, when speaking of the Hudson, the former stream 
 would be more correctly a strait, uniting the great lakes to 
 the Atlantic ocean, than a river, in the strict meaning of 
 that term. Since my arrival on the boundary, I have seve- 
 ral times had arguments with different members of the com- 
 mission, respecting the comparative volume of the St. Law- 
 rence and the Mississippi rivers. In my statistics of Louis- 
 iana, I have calculated the quantity of water discharged by 
 the Mississippi ; I shall now for your satisfaction institute a 
 
LET. IX.] 
 
 ST* LAWRENCE RIVER. 
 
 general estimate of, and comparison between (hoselwo great 
 North American rivers. I have already premised that 
 when speaking of 'the quantity 'of water in, or land drained 
 hy the Mississippi and St. Lawrence rivers, all the country 
 h meant, which is watered by their tributary branches. 
 
 The following fable exhibits the area of the different see- 
 lions of country, drained by the St. Lawrence* 
 
 TABLE 
 
 ®F THE SUPERFICIES, DRAINED BY THE VALLEY OF THE ST. LAW- 
 
 HENCE RIVER. 
 
 
 Medial 
 
 Media' 
 
 Area 
 
 Region ly ing N. W. of Lake Superior, 
 
 Length. 
 
 Breadth 
 
 Sq. Uiles 
 
 300 
 
 80 
 
 34,000' 
 
 do. north-east of do; 
 
 400 
 
 80 
 
 32,000 
 
 firth fif* T ,q!^p Hnrnn nnn wjp'jf cii 
 
 
 
 
 lilt; aUtllLca Ul lllU KJlhcl vvcta 1 lvtl j 
 
 200 
 
 AUK) 
 
 a r\ r\c\f\ 
 
 40,000 
 
 Peninsula between Lakes Huron, 
 
 
 
 
 Erie, and Ontario. 
 
 200^ 
 
 80 
 
 1 \Jj\J\J\J 
 
 North-west of St. Lawrence, below 
 
 
 
 
 the sources of the Ottawas river, 
 
 700 
 
 220 
 
 1 54.000 
 
 'Total area N. W. of St. Lawrence, 
 
 
 
 2 6 b,000 
 
 Kegion N. E. of the St. Lawrence, 
 
 
 
 
 from its mouth to that of the Rich- 
 
 
 
 
 elieu, - - - - 
 
 500 
 
 D\J 
 
 -6 0.,OOO 
 
 Triangle included between Black, St. 
 
 
 
 
 Lawrence, and Richelieu rivers, 
 
 230 
 
 50 
 
 16,500 
 
 South of Lake Ontario, west of 
 
 
 
 
 Black river, - - 
 
 200 
 
 80 
 
 1 6,000 
 
 South-east and south of Lake Erie, 
 
 
 
 
 and east of Maumee river, 
 
 300 
 
 30 
 
 6,000 
 
 Peninsula of Michigan, 
 
 250 
 
 150 
 
 37,500 
 
 West of Lake Michigan^ and south 
 
 
 
 
 of Lake Superior, - 
 
 400 
 
 120 
 
 48,000 
 
 Total south-east and soutfi-west, - 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 418,000 
 
 Area of Lake Superior, 
 
 300 
 
 100 
 
 30,000 
 
 Huron, 
 
 200 
 
 100 
 
 20*,000 
 
 Michigan, - . - 
 
 270 
 
 50 
 
 13,500 
 
 Erie, - - - 
 
 250 
 
 60 
 
 15,000' 
 
 Ontario, 
 
 180 
 
 40 
 
 7,200 
 
 Allowance for the area of St. Law- 
 
 
 
 rence river, and the smaller lakes, 
 
 
 
 1,500 
 
 ' t - ' • * 
 
 
 
 
 H 
 
90 
 
 MISSOURI IUVISK. 
 
 [let. IX, 
 
 SUMMARY. 
 
 Square Miles. 
 
 Total area north-west of St. Lawrence river, 206,000 
 Total south-east and south- west of do. - 152,000 
 Total covered with water, — - - 87,200 
 
 Total area of St. Lawrence valley, 
 
 505,200 
 
 TABLE 
 
 OF THE SUPERFICIES, DRAINED BY THE MISSISSIPPI AND ITS TRIBL'' 
 TARY BRANCHES. 
 
 Valley of Ohio, - - * * 
 do, of the Mississippi proper, 
 
 above the mouth of Missouri, 
 do. of tiie Missouri and its con- 
 fluents, - - - - 
 do, of Arkansaw river, 
 do. of Red River, 
 Narrow strip east of the Mississip- 
 pi, and below the mouth of Ohio. 
 Valleys of White and St. Francis 
 rivers, - - - 
 
 Total area . of the Mississippi val- 
 ley, - ... 
 
 Medial 
 Length. 
 700 
 
 750 
 
 1350 
 1 100 
 
 \mo 
 
 400 
 200 
 
 Medial 
 Jbrcadth. 
 300 
 
 300 
 
 500 
 100 
 100 
 
 70 
 
 250 
 
 Area 
 So! Miles, 
 
 5 75,000 
 110,000 
 100,000 
 
 28,000 
 
 50,000 
 
 l,394,Ov>0 
 
 Before leaving New-York, and when employed in writing 
 the Emigrant's Guide, I carefully measured and calculated 
 the respective superficies, drained by the St. Lawrence and 
 Mississippi rivers, the former caipe so near to 500,000 
 square miles, that I assumed that area in round numbers, 
 re-measuring the same stream by sections, the result is, as 
 you perceive. At the same period I also measured the Mis- 
 sissipi, and found its area varied so little from 1*400,000 
 square miles, that I assumed that number as sufficiently ac- 
 curate for general purposes. Calculating again by sections, 
 I found 1,39*, 000 square miles. From these various esti- 
 
X'ET. IX,] 
 
 III V Ell ST. X.UVttESCE. 
 
 91 
 
 mates, I am confident t hat neither of these surfaces are es- 
 sentially incorrect, as far as our maps are entitled to con- 
 fidence, 
 
 The outline of the two streams are respectively as fol- 
 lows : that of the St* Lawrence 3,500, that of the Missis- 
 sippi 5,0001 Of these distances the two rivers have inter- 
 locking branches, from the head of the Allegany branch of 
 Ohio, to the sources of the Mississippi and Lake Superior, 
 which following the sinuosities of the dividing line, stretch 
 along 1,300 miles. 
 
 Rising from the same vast table land, and having such ex- 
 tended connexion, it is surely worthy of remark, that no 
 two rivers ou earth so essentially differ in ihelr general 
 features, as do the Mississippi and St.- Lawrence. The for- 
 mer is turbid, iri jnany parts to. muddings, the latter unequal- 
 ly limpid. One river is composed of an almost unbroken 
 chain of lakes, t!se other in all its vast expanse, has no lakes 
 that strictly deserve the name* Annually, -the Mississippi 
 overleaps its bed and overwhelms the adjacent shores to a 
 great extent ; an accidental rise of three feet in the course 
 of fifty years, is considered an extraordinary swell of the. 
 waters of St. Lawrence ; this circumstance has occurred 
 the present season, for the first time within the lapse of for 
 ty years past. The Mississippi flowing from north to south, 
 passes through innumerable climes ; whilst its rival, winding 
 from its source in a south-east direction to near N. Iht. 41, 
 ♦urns gradually north-east, and again flows into its original 
 climate of ice and snow. The Mississippi before its final 
 discharge into the guiph of Mexico, divides into a number 
 of branches, having their separate egress ; the St. Law- 
 rence imperceptibly expands to a wide bay, which finally 
 opens into the gulpli of the same name. The banks of the 
 Mississippi present a level, scarce rising above the superior 
 surface of that stream ; those of the St. Lawrence, by a 
 gentle acclivity, exhibit the opposing sides of an elegant ba- 
 ««* Much of the surface, watered by the Mississippi, is a 
 
RIVER ST. tAWKEXCE. 
 
 [let. IX. 
 
 region of grass, where few shrubs or frees rise to break 
 the (lull monotony of the face of the earth ; the shores that 
 bound the St. Lawrence are, when in a state of nature, cov- 
 ered with an almost continuous and impervious forest. And 
 last, though rafter an accidental than a natural distinction, 
 the Mississippi rolls its mighty volume, swelled by more 
 than a thousand rivers, through one empire, and is, as I once 
 before observed, •'the largest stream on this globe, whoso 
 entire course lies within one sovereignty." The St. Law- 
 rence is, for more -than thirteen hundred miles, a national lim- 
 it, and as such, marked with the sanguinary points which dis- 
 tinguish the bounds of rival power. Both rivers have a 
 name in the hearts of the people of the United States, upon 
 both have their arms, been wreathed with never fading lau- 
 rels. 
 
 Mr. Boimhette, page 32 of bis topographical description 
 of Canada, commences a description of St. Lawrence, which 
 from the extensive local knowledge of this author, is w& 
 doubt the best notice of this river that has yet been publish- 
 ed to the world. I am ignorant whether you have read Mr. 
 Couchette's statistics or not ; from its voluminous size, it is 
 a scarce and expensive work in the United States. As it 
 would not be in my power to give so extensive, or except in 
 a small part, so accurate a picture of this remarkable 
 stream, 1 have sent you a copy of Mr. Bouchette's descrip- 
 tion, w ith occasional notes from myself, which together will, 
 1 trusty convey a tolerable comprehensive view of the most 
 singular object in North American hydrography. 
 
 " The river St. Lawrence, (which from its first discovery 
 in 1565, has been called by the inhabitants of the country, to 
 mark its pre-eminence, the Great river,) receives nearly all 
 the rivers, which have their sources in the extensive range 
 of mountains to the northward, called the Land's Height, 
 that separates the waters falling into Hudson's Bay still fur- 
 ther to the north, from those that descend into the Atlantic ; 
 and all those that rise in the ridge which commences on its 
 
XET. IX.] HIV Ell ST. XAWKEXCE. 9* 
 
 southern hank, and runs nearly south-westerly, until it talis 
 upon Lake Champlain. Of these, the principal ones are the 
 Ottawa, Musquinonge, St. "Maurice, St. Ann, Jacques C>ir- 
 tier, Saguenay, Betsiawiles, and Manieouagan on the north"; 
 and the Salmon river, Chateaugay, Chambly or Richelien, 
 Yasnaska, St. Francis, Beeancour, Du Chene,- Chaudiere, 
 and Du Loup, on she south. In d liferent parts of its course 
 it is known under different appellations ; thus, as high up 
 from the sea as Montreal, it is called St. Lawrence ; from 
 Montreal to Kingston in Upper Canada, it is called the 
 Cataraqui, or Iroquois j* (Cataraqui was the Indian name 
 for the river Iroquois, the name jgiVen by the French to th<* 
 six nations) between lake Ontario and lake Erie, it is cal- 
 led Niagara river; between lake Erie and lake St. Clair, 
 the Detroit; between lake St. Clair and lake Huron, the 
 river St. Clair ; and between hike Huron and lake Supe- 
 rior, ..the distance is called the* Narrows, or the falls of 8u 
 Mary forming thus an uninterrupted connexion of '2000 miles. 
 Lake Superior, without the aid of any great effort of imagi- 
 nation, in ay be considered as (he inexhaustible spring from 
 whence, through an num.be red ages, the St. Lawrence has 
 continued to derive its ample stream. 1 am no!, aware that 
 the source of this river has' thus been defined before ; but ex- 
 amining the usual mode of tracing large rivers' from their 
 heads to the estuaries, I venture to believe that J am warran- 
 ted in adopting the .hypothesis. This immense lake, une- 
 qualled in magnitude by any collection. of fresh water on the 
 globe, is almost of a triangular form ; its greatest length is 
 331, its breadth 1C1, and its circumference little less thai*, 
 
 * Cok Ogilvie, the British commissioner on the boundary, in-, 
 formed the author of these letters, that in the old deeds to laud 
 granted by the French, soon after their < settlement in Canada, 
 the now Ottawa was then called the St. Lawrence ; but cus- 
 tom has changed this nomenclature. The Ottawa has reas.su meri! 
 its Indian name, whilst Catarajqui has bee:) superceded by thv-r 
 French term St, Lawrence. 
 
 II 2 
 
XAKE SUPEU10K, 
 
 [LET. IX. 
 
 \\b% miles ; and as remarkable for the unrivalled transpa- 
 rency of its waters, as for its extraordinary depth. Its 
 northern coast, indented with many extensive hays is high 
 and rocky ; but on the southern shore the land is generally 
 low and level ; a sea almost of itself, it is subject to many 
 vicissitudes of that element, for here the storm rages, and 
 the billows break with a violence scarcely surpassed by the 
 tempests of the ocean. In the distant range of mountains 
 that forms the Land's Height, bejond its northern 
 and western shores, several considerable rivers, and nu- 
 merous small ones have their rise, which being increased iu 
 their course by many small lakes, family discharge them- 
 selves into lake Superior. To the southward also there is 
 another lofty range, dividing the waters that find their way 
 to ihe Gulf of Mexico, through the channel of- tho Mis- 
 sissippi, from those that take a northern course into the 
 great lake ; so that its vasfness is increased by the tributa- 
 ry streams of more than thirty rivers. On its north and 
 i;or4.h-eas*. sides there are several islands, of which one, call- 
 ed Isle Royale is (lie largest, being one hundred miles long 
 and forty broad. Out of Lake Superior a very rapid cur- 
 rent is interrupted and broken by several small islands, or 
 rather huge masses of rock, through a channel of twenty- 
 seven miles in length, at the end of which it flows into lake 
 Htirgn ? The Falls of St. Mary are nearly midway between 
 the two hikes •; this denomination, though generally ghen* 
 but little accords with the usual appellation of Falls, as ap- 
 plied to the descent of large bodies of water precipitated 
 from great heights, that so frequently occur on the rivers of 
 America j* for in this place, it is only the impetuous stream 
 
 * The French term, said, literally jump, or leap, from Use 
 ei h Muter, to jump or leap, answers rather to the English noun 
 rapid, than loan actual perpendicular jf&l/ of water. The French 
 noun chute, is mdifiereiitly applied to either a fail or rapid, but 
 also, more correctly to the latter 5 cataract signifies the £niu<t 
 gensc in bod). In ngu ages. 
 
iET. IX.] LAKE HLHOX U5 
 
 of the enormous -discharge from lake Superior, forcing its 
 way through a confined channel, and breaking wills propor- 
 tionate violence among the im pediments that nature has 
 thrown in its way; yet this scene of tumultuous and un- 
 ceasing agitation of the w aters, combined with the noise and. 
 dazzling whiteness of the surge, is not deficient either in 
 grandeur or magnificence." 
 
 «• Luke Huron, in point of exteat, yields but little to Lake 
 Superior, its greatest length from west to east is $LB statute 
 miles .; at its western extremity it is less than one hundred, 
 and at about one hundred miles from its eastern shore, bare- 
 ly sixty miles broad ; but near the centre it suddenly bends 
 away southward, to the breadth of one hundred and eighty 
 miles ; measuring the circumference through all its curva- 
 tures, will give a distance of little less than 812 miles ; in 
 shape it is exceedingly irregular, yet, with a little assistance 
 from fancy, may be fashioned into something like a triangu- 
 lar. From its western side an extensive series, called (he 
 MauatorJin Islands, stretches in an easterly direction for one 
 hundred and sixty miles ; many of them measuring from t wen- 
 ty to thirty miles in length, by ten, twelve, and fifteen in 
 breadth, on some of which the land rises into elevations of 
 considerable height. Besides this great chain, there are 
 many ethers of inferior dimensions, numerously grouped in 
 various parts, rendering the navigation intricate, and in some 
 places, and particularly towards the west end, dangerous. 
 On this lake also, the navigation is of'teii assailed by violent 
 storms, attended with thunder and lightning, more terrifie 
 thrill in any other part of North America. At the western 
 angle of lake Huron is lake Michigan, which, although 
 distinguished by a separate name, can only be considered as 
 a part of the former, deepening into a bay of miles in 
 length by sixty-five in breadth, and whose entire circumfer- 
 ence is 731 miles. Between it and Luke Huron there is a 
 peninsula that, at the widest part, is 150 miles, along which, 
 and round the bottom of Michigan, rumv part of the chain 
 
96 
 
 JL AX E S HURON AND MICHIGAN. 
 
 [LET. IX, 
 
 forming (lie Land's Height, to the southward ; from whenee 
 descend many large and numerous inferior streams that dis- 
 charge info it.* On the north side of Jake Huron, many 
 rivers of considerable size run from the Land's Height 
 down to it. One of them, called French river, communi- 
 cates with lake Nipissing, from whence a succession of 
 smaller ones, connected by short portages, opens an inter- 
 course with the Ottawa river, that joins the St.. Lawrence- 
 near Montreal. !* On the eastern extremity of the lake is 
 
 *The peninsula between lakes Michigan* Huron, St. Clair and 
 Erie, and the rivers St. Clair and Detroit, now forms the Michi- 
 gan Territory It is confidently asserted by many, that, at high- 
 fioods a communication does exist, between- lake Michigan- and 
 Illinois river. If tins assumption be well founded, it affords one 
 of the most astonishing hydrographical anomalies on earth. It. 
 has long since been determined that the surface of lake Erie is 
 565 feet above the level of tide water in the Hudson river at 'Al- 
 bany. The difference of level between lakes Ene and Michigan 
 by the descent of the rivers Detroit and St. Clair, cannot exceed 
 twenty-nine feet, if so much. Detroit is 26 ? and St. Clair river 
 V>2 miles in length, and allowing six inches per mile for the per- 
 pendicular fall of hot!) rivers, is an ample estimate of their ag- 
 gregate descent. This computation would yield 594 feet as the 
 elevation of the surface of lakes Huron and Michigan above the 
 Atlantic tides ^ and if the hypothesis be founded on correct data, 
 of a counter current from the Illinois river into Michigan lake, 
 and vice versa, then the point of separation of those currents js 
 equi elevated above the level of the gulfs of St. Lawrence and 
 Mexico, and would divide this continent into two vast though un- 
 equal islands. Baron Humboldt has established the fact of the 
 existence of a similar interlocutory communication between the 
 waters of (he Orouoco and Amazon rivers; and I have in these 
 letters, upon the respectable authority of Mr. Isaac Briggs, pub- 
 lished the fact that the Waters of the Upper Mohawk do, when 
 swelled by Hoods, flow partly down the Mohawk and partly dawn 
 the Oneida livers 
 
 f It has already been stated, upon the authority of Col. Cgib 
 vie, that the original French term St. Lawrence was continued 
 above Montreal by the stream of the Ottawa. Mr. Bouchette 
 unequivocally establishes the transposition of names, to which J 
 have before alluded. ' 
 
 The Ottawa is a very large and impetuous stream flowing ou* 
 of the mountains which wind north of lake .Huron. The general 
 
X»ET* IX.] RIVEHS OTTAWA AND SAGUEtfAY. 
 
 the Maehedash river, which, though another succession of 
 lakes, separated only by one short portage, establishes a 
 communication by lake Simeoe, Holland river, and longe- 
 
 oourse of the Ottawa is tolerably well known, as the traders, from 
 Montreal frequently follow that river in prosecuting their voyages 
 to the north-west. For the distance of three hundred miles from 
 its source, the course of the Ottawa is south-east, to where it ap- 
 proaches within sixty miles of Kingston in Upper Canada ; it 
 then assumes a course a little north of east, and flowing in that 
 direction about 20Q miles joins the St. Lawrence by the lake of 
 the Two Mountains above Montreal. The volume contained in, 
 and discharged by the Ottawa, is immense; few if any rivers on 
 earth of au equal length equal this stream in quantity of water. 
 It is extremely interrupted by rapids and falls, frequently che- 
 quered by islands and dilated into lakes of a considerable extent. 
 Settlements have been made upon the Ottawa along both banks 
 between i 00 and 200 miles above its mouth ; much of the soil is 
 very fertile, and supplied with inexhaustible forests of various 
 kinds of timber. 
 
 It has been generally believed -that the Ottawa was the largest 
 branch of St. Lawrence, but Mr. Bouchette gives that rank to the 
 Saguenay ; his description of the latter river is in the following 
 words: " The river Saguenay, which discharges itself into the 
 St. Lawrence, at Point e aux Mlouettes, is the largest of all the 
 streams that pay their tribute to the Great river. It draws its 
 source from lake St. John, a collection of waters of considerable 
 expanse, lying in N. ]at. 48® 20' W. long. .72° SO' receiving ma- 
 ny large rivers that flow from the north and north-west, from an 
 immense distance in the interior, of which the Piecougamis, the 
 Sable, and the Pariboaca are the principal ones. At its eastern 
 extremity two large streams, one called the Great Discharge, and 
 the otjier the Kinogami, or Land river, issue from it ; which, af- 
 ter flowing about 57 miles, and encompassing a tract of land of 
 the mean breadth of twelve miles, unite their waters, and become 
 the irresistible SAGUENAY; from which point it continues its 
 course in an easterly direction for about 100 miles down to the 
 St. Lawrence. The banks of this river throughout its course are 
 very rocky and immensely high, varying froni 170 even to 340 
 yards above the stream. Its current is broad, deep, and uncom- 
 monly vehement. In some places where precipices intervene, 
 there are falls from fifty to sixty feet in height, down which the 
 whole volume of the stream rushes with indescribable fury and 
 tremendous noise. The general breadth of the river is fiom two 
 miles and a half to three miles, but at its mouth the distance is 
 contracted to about one mije. The depth of this cnornious 
 
»8 
 
 III Y Eli SAG UK NAY* 
 
 [let. IX, 
 
 street, with the town of York, now called the capital of Up- 
 per Canada ; this route would most materially shorten the 
 distance between the upper and lower lakes, and is capable 
 of such improvement, as would render it highly beneficial (o 
 Upper Canada,* a subject that will be hereafter adverted to. 
 
 stream is also extraordinary. At its discharge, attempts have 
 been made to find its bottom, with live hundred fathoms of line^ 
 bat without effect ; about two miles higher up, ithas been repeat- 
 edly sounded from one hundred and thirty to one hundred and 
 forty fathoms ; and from sixty to seventy miles fr om the St. .Law- 
 rence, its depth is found from fifty to sixty fathoms. The course 
 of the river, notwithstanding its magnitude, is very sinuous, ow- 
 ing to many projecting points from each shore. The tide runs 
 about 70 miles up it, and upon account of the obstructions occa- 
 sioned by the numerous promontories, the ebb is much later than 
 jn the St. Lawrence; in consequence of which, at Jow. water in 
 the latter, the force of the descending stream of the Saguenay is 
 felt for several miles. Just within the mouth of the river, oppo- 
 site to Fointe aux Alloucttes, is the harbor of Tad.oussac, whicit 
 is very well sheltered by the surrounding high lands, and has 
 good anchorage for a great number of vessels, of a large size- 
 where they may lie in perfect safety. On the northern shore of 
 the St. Lawrence, and at many places on the Saguenay, there 
 are stations for trading with the Indians for peltry, and for carry- 
 ing on the whale, seal, porpoise, and salmon fishery; these are 
 known by the name of King's Posts/ and are now let, with all 
 their privileges, to the North West Company at Quebec, on a 
 lease at a thousand and twenty-five pounds per annum. An es- 
 tablishment is maintained at Tadoussac, at Chicoutami, on the 
 Saguenay, at Lake St. John, at Les isles de Jerimie, near Betsia- 
 mitis point, at the Seven islands, beyond Cap des Monts Peles x 
 and at Cap des Monts. At those towards the sea the fisheries 
 are pursued during the summer, and at the interior ones the fur 
 trade is carried on with the Indians during the winter. About 
 the trading post at Chicoutami the land is tolerably fertile, and 
 the timber of a superior quality. In the little agriculture that is 
 here paid attention to, it lias been observed that grain ripens 
 sooner than it does in the vicinity of Quebec, although the situa- 
 tion [of the former place] is much further to the northward. 
 Another of the many anomalies that distinguish the climate of 
 Canada." [Bouchette-s Canada, page 563-566. 
 
 * In the progress of population along the border of the Cana- 
 dian lakes, an open water route from New- York to the eastern, 
 angle of lake Huron, will no doubt be formed ; and will more sc.- 
 
X.ET. IX.] 
 
 RIVER ST. CXAITi. 
 
 From the extremity of Lake Huron to the southward, the 
 course of the waters are contracted into a river (called St. 
 Clair's) that flow between moderately high banks, adorned 
 by many natural beauties for a distance of sixty miles, * near- 
 ly due south, when it again expands into (he small lake St. 
 Clair, almost circular in form, its diameter about SO miles, 
 and about 90 in circuit, too diminutive, when compared vltir 
 the preceding ones, (and not being otherwise remarkable) 
 to demand a further description. Out of *his lake the wa- 
 ters again assume the form of a river, (called Detroit) con- 
 tinuing the same southerly course for 40 miles] into Lake 
 Eric $ its stream is divided into two channels from space to 
 
 riously affect the course of commerce in that quarter, than any 
 improvement within human power, after that of the Grand Ca- 
 nal in the state of New- York. From the post of Michiiimakinac 
 to York in Canada, by lakes Huron, Erie, and Niagara river, is 
 650 miles, whilst it is only 350 miles between those two points by 
 lake Huron and the intended canal by la!<e Simcoe. How far 
 the intervening country between lakes Ontado and Huron, is fa- 
 vorable to the formation of a canal, I am uninformed, but am in- 
 clined to believe that there does not exist any very serious im- 
 pediment to such an enterprise. Every tiling else equal, the in- 
 habitants on the north side of the Canadian sea have against 
 them a difficulty sufficient to prevent a successful competition 
 with their more southern rivals; that is the climate. This is a 
 circumstance affecting the comparative advance of the two coun- 
 tries which must remain unchanged for ever, maugre all human 
 efforts. If an equal share of active enterprize in the great body 
 of the people, and equal protection to person and property in 
 their government distinguishes the contiguous states of the Uni- 
 ted States, as the British Canadian Provinces, the progress of the 
 former must be more rapid than the latter. The resources of 
 both are, however, immense, and demand for de\ elopement only 
 the energetic application of their increasing means. 
 
 * The distance is here over-rated considerably. From actual 
 survey, it is less than forty miles from the bottom of lake Huron 
 into lake St. Clair. This subject will be more particularly no- 
 ticed in the sequel of this treatise. 
 
 f This distance is also stated too large, as will he seen by re- 
 ference to that part of this correspondence relating to Detroit 
 gnd its environs. 
 
LAKE ERIE, 
 
 [LET, IX. 
 
 space, by islands of various sizes, the largest being about 
 ten miles long. On the east side of this river (he prospect 
 is diversified and agreeable, displacing some of (he beau(ies 
 of an exuberant soil, aided by a very respectable slate of 
 culrivation, and enlivened by the cheerful appearance of set- 
 tlements and villages, gradually rising into consequence by 
 the industry of an increasing population. The Detroit 
 opens into the south-west end of lake Erie. This lake ex~ 
 tends from south-west to north-east two bundled and thirtv 
 one miles, in its broadest partis 63 i-2, and in circumference 
 658. Near the Detroit it is adorned by many pleasing and 
 picturesque islands,, whilst its shores on both sides, have ma- 
 ny indications of settlement and cultivation. Gales of wind 
 frequently occur, and bring wkh (hens a heavy swell, with 
 every characteristic of a gale of wind at sea ; but there ar® 
 many good harbors, particularly on the northern side** thai 
 
 * Here the partiality of the Canadian appears. Lake Erie is 
 unfortunately deficient in good harbors on both shores, but if no 
 other circumstance except the confluent rivers existed, that alone 
 would give a decided preference to "the southern shore. It is a 
 singular fact that the Ouse or Grand river is the only stream of 
 any consequence which enters lake Erie from the Canada shore; 
 whilst on the opposite side enter the Cataraugus, Ashtabula, 
 Cayahoga, Black river, Vermillion, Huron of the state of Ohio, 
 Sandusky, Maumee, Raisin, and the southern Huron of the Mi- 
 chigan Territory; and besides these, many of which afford good 
 shelter for vessels, are the harbors of Dunkirk and Erie, into 
 which no rivers are disembogued. Put-in-bay, in the southern 
 Bass island, is an excellent harbor; perhaps, except Detroit riv- 
 er itself, the best in lake Erie. As the author visited most of 
 these bays and rivers, particular descriptions will be found in 
 the course of this treatise, to which the reader is referred. 
 
 The Ouse or Grand river rises in Upper Canada, about fifty 
 miles north-west of the western extremity of lake Ontario, and 
 following a south-south-east course of about 80 miles falls into 
 lake Erie 35 miles west of fort Erie; it has a bar at the mouth 
 like all other lake rivers. Interlocking with the Ouse rises the 
 river Thames, the riviere a la Tranche of the French, or Escan- 
 sipi of the Chippewa Indians. The Tha mes flows to the south- 
 west, about 15 miles from and very nearly parallel to lake Erie, 
 and finally falls into lake St. Clair about 40 miles east from Xlm 
 
SET. 
 
 NIAGARA KIVER: 
 
 101 
 
 afford protection to the numerous vessels that navigate it. 
 Its greatest depth of wafer is between 40 and 45 fathoms, 3 * 
 its bottom generally rocky* which renders the anchorage 
 precarious, particularly in blowing weather* From the 
 north-east end of lake Erie, the communication to lake 
 Ontario is by the Niagara river, 30 miles in length, and va- 
 rying from half* a mile to a league in breadth, its course 
 nearly north. The stream in some places is divided into two 
 channels by islands, the largest of which is seven miles in 
 length. The current h impetuous, and being broken in ma- 
 ny places by the uneven rocky bottom, is very much agitated. 
 The banks on each side of the river are almost perpendicular, 
 anil considerably more than one hundred yards higb.f On 
 the western side the road passes aiong its summit, and de- 
 lights the traveller with many interesting views both of the 
 river and the country, which is thickly inhabited, and under 
 excellent culture. Here also his mind will be lost in wonder 
 at viewing the stupendous Falls of Niagara, unquestionably 
 one of the most extraordinary spectacles in nature, that pre- 
 sents to the imagination as powerful a combination of sub- 
 limity and grandeur, magnificence and terror, as it can well 
 experience. Any description, however animated, whether 
 pourtrayed by the glowing pencil of art, guided by the live- 
 liest fancy, or flowing from the most eloquent pen that em- 
 bellishes the page of narrative, would, most probably, 
 
 town of Detroit. Several indentings of the north shore of lake 
 Erie produce harbors, one of which, the North Foreland, has 
 fjreat resemblance to the bay of Erie, though upon a larger scale $ 
 some others, like Dunkirk, are open semi-elliptical bays, with no 
 great depth of water. Maiden, or Amherstburg, is incompara- 
 bly the best harbor in Canada, in or contiguous to lake Erie. 
 
 * Medium dqpth about 20 fathoms. 
 
 t This is fact only between the falls and Queen stown. Many 
 places above the falls the banks are nearly on a level with, and m 
 others, rising but little above the surface of the river. Below 
 Queenstown, the banks gradually decline, until near lake Onta- 
 rio, they are subject to occasional inimdafcioiau 
 
403 
 
 NIAGARA rUVEft* 
 
 [LET. IX. 
 
 fall short of doing adequate justice (o the reality. The at- 
 Ccmpt* however, 1ms been so frequently made, and in some 
 few instances Avitli tolerable success, as to convey an idea of 
 Sis immensity, that, M a description of the Falls of Niagara" 
 l^as become familiar to almost every general reader. For 
 this reason, and also because in any new endeavor, I should 
 jeertainly fee! hut little confident of either reaching tlie mer- 
 it of the subject, or contributing to the stock of knowledge 
 already obtained thereon. I will excuse myself from re- 
 peating what has been so often related before, and proceed 
 in describing, with my best means., the general outlines of 
 this majestic river. 
 
 " Five miles from the great Falls is another, and scarcely 
 less tremendous natural curiosity, called the whirlpool ; it is 
 occasioned by the stream as it passes from the cataract 
 sweeping with impetuous violence round a natural basin en- 
 closed between some rocky promontories, wherein it forms a 
 vortex, that ensures inevitable destruction to whatever 
 comes within its attraction. By thus diverging from its 
 forward direction, and being as it were emhayed for a time, 
 the velocity of the current is cheeked, and subdued to a more 
 tranquil course towards Lake Ontario. Four miles from 
 hence is Quccnstown, a neat, well built place, deserving of 
 notice, as being the depot for all merchandize and stores, 
 brought from Montreal and Quebec, for the use of the upper 
 province ; but not less so for the romantic beauty and local 
 grandeur of its situation. For seven miles further on, to tho 
 town of Newark or Niagara, the river forms an excellent 
 capacious harbor for vessels of any size, exceedingly well 
 sheltered by high and bold banks on each side, with good 
 anchorage in every part. The river of Niagara communi 
 catcs with the west end of Lake Ontario, rendered memora- 
 ble by events recently passed, and most probably destined to 
 become the scene of contests, that will be pregnant with 
 momentous import to North America in future ages. In 
 length it is 171 miles, ait its greatest breadth 59 1-2, and i67 
 
XET. IX.] 
 
 XAK1& ONTARIO. 
 
 103 
 
 in ..circumference. The depth of water varies very much, 
 but is seldom less than three, or more than 50 fathoms, ex- 
 cept in the middle, where attempts have been made with 300 
 fathoms without striking soundings.* Its position is nearly 
 east and west. The appearance of the shores exhibits great 
 diversify ; towards the north-east part they are low, with ma- 
 ny marshy places j to the north and north-west they assume 
 a lofty character, but subside again to very moderate height 
 on the south.f Bordering the lake the country is every 
 where covered with woods, through whose numerous open- 
 ings frequent patches of settlements are seen that give it a 
 pleasing effect, which is greatly heightened by the white 
 cliffs of Toronto, and the remarkable high land over 
 Presque Isle, called the Devil's Nose, on the north ; the 
 view on the south is well relieved with a back ground pro- 
 duced by the ridge of hills, that, after forming the precipice 
 for the cataract, stretches away to the eastward ; the finish* 
 ing object of the prospect in this direction is a conical emi- 
 iteacc towering above the chain of heights, called Fifty Mile 
 Hill, as denoting its distance from the town of Niagara. Of 
 the many rivers flowing into Lake Ontario, if the Genesee 
 
 * When on lake Ontario, I was informed by sundry captains 
 of vessels, that, -after leaving the shores a short distance, the 
 soundings varied from 75 to 89 fathoms ; seldom so low as 70 or 
 so high as 90 ; which would give a medium depth of 82 fathoms. 
 From every information I have received, the bottom of the lakes 
 vary considerably, having hills, dales, and slopes 5 similar to dry 
 land ; but with less abruptness in the ascents and descents. Com- 
 pared with the surface Ontario is the deepest of all the Canadian 
 lakes, and like Erie receives its principal rivers from the south 
 shore. 
 
 f This is only correct as respects the immediate shores ; along 
 the south side of lake Ontario runs a narrow strip of land, occa- 
 sionally rising into banks of 30 or 40 feet high, and often low, 
 and sometimes marshy ; but four, five or six miles from the shore 
 the country rises into high hills, with often a very broken and 
 even mountainous aspect. The country near Sacket's Harbor is 
 flat, but resting upon a bed of limestone, with hills of considera- 
 ble elevation in the rear. 
 
NIAGARA 2UYEJI. 
 
 and Oswego rivers be excepted, there are none (bat lay claim 
 *o particular notice, unless it be for the peculiarity of all 
 of them having a sandy bar across the entrance. There are 
 some fine bays and inlets, wherein vessels of every description 
 may find protection against bad weather. Burlington bay 
 is both spacious and secure ; but these advantages are ren- 
 dered of little importance by i(s narrow entrance being so 
 shallow as to admit nothing larger than boats* Hungry 
 bay, on the contrary, is conspicuous, as affording good an- 
 chorage, and safe shelter among the islands to- ships of (he 
 largest size at all seasons. York and Kingston harbors, be- 
 longing to the English, and Saeket's Harbor to the Ameri- 
 cans, are unquestionably the best upon the lake, as they pos- 
 sess every natural requisite ; the two latter are strongly 
 fortified, being the arsenals where ships of war, even of the 
 first rale, have been constructed by both powers, and from 
 whence have been fitted out those powerful hostile squadrons 
 that have conferred so much consequence upon the naval op- 
 erations in this quarter.^ Very heavy squalls of wind fre- 
 quently occur, but they are unattended with either difficulty 
 or danger, if met by the usual precautions every seaman is 
 acquainted with. 
 
 Of the many islandsat the east end of Ontario, the Grant! 
 Isle, lying abreast of Kingston, is the most extensive, and by 
 being placed at the commencement of the Cataraqui riv- 
 er, forms two channels leading into it, that bear the 
 name of the North or Kingston Channel, and the South or 
 
 # Except the barracks noticed page 72 of this treatise, there 
 exists no defensive or offensive military works at Sacket^ 
 Harbor. The temporary lines of defence, erected during the 
 war, are now neglected or removed. It is a position with 
 great natural advantages which might be made, if necessary, very 
 strong. It is also a post of the utmost importance to the U. S. 
 If I was called upon to point out which place, in my opinion, on 
 all the Canadian border, concentrated the most eligible site for a 
 naval and military depot, I would unhesitatingly give the mouth 
 of Black river the preference. 
 
1ST. IX ] 
 
 RiVSR ST. LYWREME. 
 
 105 
 
 Carleton Island Channel. Cafaraqui, from lis eniWttifee ifr 
 the place called Petit Detroit, about 39 miles; is almost filled 
 "with one continued cluster of small islands, so numerous a$ 
 to have occasioned the general denomination ofMillcs Isles.* 
 
 * Thousand islands. There is groat vagueness in the above 
 description which [eaves the commencement of the Cataiiicjiii un- 
 defined. Indeed it is very difficult to mark with precision the 
 termination of lake Ontario, or the commencement of the Ckta- 
 raqui br St. Lawrence river. Before reaching Grand Isle, a num- 
 ber of smaller islands chequer the bottom of the lake between 
 Sachet's Harbor and the eastern extremity of the Peninsula of 
 Prince Edward. The lake gradually contracts approaching the 
 west end of Grand Isle, where it is about teii nines wide; three 
 miles further to the north-east, from Kingston to Cape VincciUj 
 the distance is eight miles in a direct line. Below Kingston, the 
 river, or more correctly, the lake slowly contracts for about fifty 
 miles in a direct line to Broekville, where it is but little above one 
 mile wide. The intermediate space between Kingston and 
 Broekvilie is an almost continued cluster of islands, but distin- 
 guished by very different characters. Grand island, Carlton 
 island and Well's island with some others in their vicinity, rise 
 fifty or sixty feet above the level of the water with sloping banks* 
 and a productive soil covered with timber of various kinds, of 
 which pine, elm, maple and linden are the principal species. 
 The banks of the main shore are flat or rise very gradually with 
 a base of secondary or floetz rock. The region known by the 
 distinctive appellation of the Thousand islands is granitic. The 
 islands are mostly small, and many of them naked rock ; pine is 
 the prevalent timber. The banks of the main shore often pre- 
 cipitous. 
 
 A chain of primitive mountains leaves the elevated country 
 south-west of lake George, and proceeding to the north-west 
 through the state of New- York, between the waters of the < • - 
 gatchie and Black rivers, cross the St. Lawrence between King- 
 ston and Broekvilie, and continuing into Canada, divides the wa- 
 ters that flow north-east into the Ottawa, from those which flow 
 south-west into lakes Huron and Ontario. The passage of the 
 St. Lawrence over this chain, forms the Thousand islands 
 Every step I have taken on this stream presents phenomena to 
 demonstrate that this ridge was once unbroken, and that in it, 
 some where existed a cataract, above which the waters of lake 
 Ontario were elevated greatly above their present level. The dis- 
 ruption, or gradual wear of this mass of rocks, let loose the im- 
 prisoned fluid, inundated the country below, and then, perhaps, 
 commenced the cataract of Niagara. 
 
 I 
 
106 
 
 It I Y ER ST. XI WHENCE. 
 
 [let. el. 
 
 The distance between Kingston and Montreal is about 190 
 miles; (lie banks of the river display a scene that cannot 
 fail to excite surprize, when the years that have elapsed 
 
 Below the Thousand islands, commences a secondary region 
 consisting in great part of schistose sandstone, upon which oftea 
 rests an alluvial deposit In this manner is formed the unequal- 
 led country below Brockville, as far as I have visited the river St, 
 Lawrence. Though not bearing the name, the islands between 
 Morristown and Brockville are formed from similar materials 
 with the Thousand islands. About midway, between and a little 
 below those two towns, occur the last of these granitic islands, 
 and what is very singular, the banks of both shores are formed 
 of floeiz or schistc >se rock. Immediately below Brockville, the 
 Canada shore is formed by a high and perpendicular ledge of 
 the latter formation, and about four miles above Morristown, the 
 margin of the river is a ledge of fine white sandstone in hori- 
 zontal strata. Below this place, the river is without islands 
 fifteen or sixteen miles, is from a mile to one and half mile wide, 
 with shores rising by a gentle acclivity from the water, and where 
 cultivated, inexpressibly beautiful. The soil exuberantly rich^ 
 and covered with a growth of timber, indicative of extraordinary 
 fertility, such as white birch, red maple, sugar tree, elm, linden, 
 hemlock,* and white pine. 
 
 Four miles below Ogdensburgh, another group of islands com- 
 mence, but with a physiognomy totally different from any of the 
 preceding. This group is near thirty in number, of different sizes 
 from one and a half mile to twenty yards in length, almost all of 
 an elliptical form, and rising from the water by a globular swell. 
 Such of those islands which have formerly been cleared of tim- 
 ber, and which are now again overgrown by a new generation 
 of trees, are incomparably the most delightful spots I have either 
 seen or whose existence I could conceive. The limpid water 
 that surrounds them, clumps of trees without underbrush, and 
 in summer an air attempered to the most delicious softness. A 
 few days past, our agent col Samuel Hawkins, gave a fete 
 champetre.wpon one of them, to the members of the commissions 
 on both sides ; the day was, even on the St. Lawrence, uncom- 
 monly fine, and amid the groves of aspen, wild cherry, and 
 linden trees, the scene seemed snore than earthly. Mrs. Hawkins 
 presided, and in the bowers of St. Lawrence, recalled the most 
 polished manners of civilized cultivated society in the crowded 
 city. At the close of evening, major Joseph Delafield and my- 
 self, walked over the island, and in full view of the objects which 
 excited our feelings, concluded that no spot on the globe could 
 unite within so small a space, more to please, to amuse and grati- 
 fy the fancy. 
 
LET. IX.J RIVER ST. LAWRENCE. 107 
 
 since the first settlement of (his pari of the country (hi 1783) 
 are considered. They embrace all !he embellishments of a 
 numerous population, fertility, and good dukivatioii-,* Well 
 constructed high roads leading close to each side, with oth- 
 ers branching from them into the interior, render communi- 
 cation both easy and expeditious, whilst the numerous loaded 
 batteaux and rafts incessantly passing up and down from the 
 beginning of spring until the latter end of autumn, demon- 
 strate, unequivocally, a very .extensive commercial inter- 
 course. The islands, the shoals, tlie rapids, with contrivan- 
 ces for passing them, form altogether a succession of novel- 
 ties that gives pleasure while it creates astonishment.'* 
 
 Before reaching Montreal, the lakes St. Francis. Si- 
 Louis, and dfes Montagues, present themselves : they do not 
 admit of comparison with those already noticed, and, can 
 indeed, only be considered as so many widening® of the 
 
 * The rapid change made upon an uncultivated! country by the 
 introduction of the necessary arts of civilized life, never did re- 
 ceive a more striking exemplification, than is now given by the 
 left shore of the St. Lawrence below the Thousand islands, as far 
 down as Hamilton. 'Fields joining to fields, farm -houses, with 
 their most attractive decoration, garden, meadow, and orchard, 
 smile along this truly elegant slope. Villages with many of the 
 highest traits of cultivated life, and -with ali the first principles of 
 civilization, rise along this once desolate waste. Brockville, 
 Prescott, and Johnstown, are now what were once New- York and 
 Philadelphia, what were once Quebec and Montreal, and ranging* 
 farther back in the lapse of ages, wiiat was once Athens, Rome, 
 Paris and London. 
 
 Many times, when the rising and setting sun spread a glow of 
 golden lustre over this attractive picture, have I demanded of 
 myself, was this country a gloomy forest scene only five and thirty 
 years past ? The rich lustre of harvest would have answered, 
 that upon this expanse the labor of ages had been expended ; but 
 history faithfully points to the contrary. In 1 783 the ax first 
 resounded on these shores ; and now, \S\8 } the world can pre- 
 sent but few, if any regions of equal extent, where all that can al- 
 lure the eye, or gratify the mind, can be found more condensed 
 into one view. Savage life has disappeared for ever, and in its 
 place now stands the residence of the instructed man. 
 
1C8 RIVER ST. LAURENCE. [LET* IX. 
 
 river.* They are of no great depth, but form an agreeable 
 variety, by having many pretty islands scattered about them. 
 St. Francis is 25 miles long by five and a half miles broad ; 
 the shores in some places are marshy, as they do not rise 
 much above the level of the water. St. Louis and Deux 
 Montagues, are formed at the junction of the Ottawa with 
 the St. Lawrence ; the first is 12 miles long by 6 broad ; the 
 latter is very irregular, and in its whole length 2<* miles, but 
 varying in breadth from 1 to 6 miles. 
 
 <• At the confluence of the two rivers are the islands of 
 Montreal, isle Jesus, Bizarre, and Perrot ; the first is pro- 
 bably the most beautiful spot of all Lower Canada. On the 
 youth side of this island is the city off the same name, and its 
 convenient port. 580 miles from the gulf of St. Lawrence, to 
 which ships of six hundred tons can ascend with very little 
 difficulty.! On the north-west lies Isle Jesus, that, by its 
 
 # If the first springs that afterwards form the rivers west of 
 Jake Superior, are taken into the account then lake Superior it- 
 self is nothing more than a dilatation of the waters as they are ag- 
 gregated in descending from their original source. Lakes Huron, 
 Micliig'aiij Erie, and Ontario, differ in nothing but comparative 
 extent, from those of St. Francis and St. Louis in the St. Law- 
 rence l iver ; from lake George and Champlain in the Richelieu ; 
 j l'om J a ke Pepiu iu the Mississippi, and from lake Leman in the 
 Rhone; The smallest brook, presents all the features of the 
 largest river, where the plain has too little inclination to admit 
 direct descent, a pond or lake is formed, and where the descent 
 becomes rapid, a flowing stream is the consequence. From these 
 simple principles, arise all the features perceivable from the dimp- 
 ling pool, to the vast expanse of lake Superior, or the Caspian sea ; 
 from the rippling rill to the overwhelming torrents of the Missis- 
 sippi and St. Lawrence All streams are, in fact, composed of 
 chains whose links are themselves alternately lakes and cataracts, 
 the cause of the existence of the former, is a greater approach to 
 *he curye of the real sphere ; the latter is produced by an in- 
 clination of more or less obliquity to that curve superficies. 
 
 t Compared with any other stream of the globe, the St. Law- 
 rence, when free from ice, certainly affords the best ship naviga- 
 tion. No other river can be ascended so far with equal vessels, 
 and with so little impediment. The only streams that can corn- 
 pete with the St. Lawrence, are the Oronoque and Rio de la 
 
XET. IX.] 
 
 RIVER ST* LAWRENCE. 
 
 109 
 
 position, forms two other channels of a moderate breadth, 
 one called la Riviere des Prairies, and the oilier !a Riviere 
 <le St. Jean, or Jesus. They are both navigable for boats 
 or rafts, and unite again with the main river at Bout tic V 
 Isle, or east end of Montreal island. From this city the na- 
 vigation assumes a character of more consequence than what 
 it does above, being carried on in ships and decked vessels of 
 all classes. In the distance from hence to Quebec, 180 
 miles, the impediments to vessels of large tonnage sailing 
 either up or down are not many, and may be overcome with 
 much ease, if it be judged expedient that their cargoes should 
 be so conveyed in preference to transporting them in small 
 craft. On either side the prospect is worthy of admiration. 
 The different seigniories, all in the highest state of improve- 
 ment that the agriculture of the country will admit of, denote 
 both affluence and industry. The views are always pleasing 
 and often beautiful, although the component parts of them 
 do not possess that degree of grandeur w hich is perceivable 
 below Quebec. Numerous villages built around a handsome 
 htone church, seem to invite the traveller's attention, while 
 single houses and farms at agreeable distances appear to 
 keep up a regular chain of communication. In fact, who- 
 ever passes from one city to the other, whether by water or 
 by land, will not fail to have his senses highly gratified, and 
 to meet with many subjects worthy both of observation and 
 
 Plate,. both in South America. The Amazon and Mississippi can 
 neither present so much facility for internal commerce, as far as 
 the ingress of large ships is concerned. On the eastern contin- 
 ent, the Elbe, Garonne, Wolga, and Ganges, are the rivers that 
 admit the highest descent of ships, neither of winch are equal in 
 that respect, to the Hudson or the Delaware. 
 
 The beauty of the St. Lawrence islands has been noticed ; that 
 of Montreal has the preference of greater extent than any other 
 with equal elegance of natural physiognomy* The scenery 
 around this city is on a vast scale, being bounded by mountains 
 more than eighty miles distant, uniting in itse ! f, a most attractive 
 local, with a position equally favorable for external and internal 
 commerce : it now contains 25,000 people. 
 
 I 2 
 
RITE It ST. XAVTEENCE. 
 
 j [LET. IX. 
 
 reflection. About 45 miles below Montreal, oh the south 
 side, is the town of William-Henry, op Sorrel, built at the 
 entrance of the river Richelieu in(o the St. Lawrence, not 
 far from which the latter spreads into another lake, the last 
 in its progress towards the sea ; it is called St. Peters, is 25 
 miles long and 9 broad ; like most of the others, this has a 
 group of islands covering about 9 miles of the western part ; 
 between them two distinct channels are formed, the one to 
 ihe south being the deepest and clearest is consequently the 
 best for ships. The banks on each side are very low, with 
 shoals stretching from them to a considerable distance, so 
 that only a narrow passage, whose general depth is from 12 
 to 18 feet, is left unobstructed. About 45 miles from William 
 Henry on the north side, at the mouth of the river St.Mannee, 
 stands tike town of Three Rivers, the third in rank within 
 the province. At this place the tide ceases entirely,* and, 
 
 * Or in other words, the town of Three Rivers, stands at the 
 head of tid<j water in the St. Lawrence. If it is ISO miles from 
 Quebec to Montreal, and 90 from the latter to Three Rivers, than 
 the tides flow 90 miles above Quebec, or nearly 400 miles from 
 the gulf of St. Lawrence, and an unequalled distance into the 
 interior of this or any other part of the earth. Like as in the 
 Hudson, the tides in the St. Lawrence, pass through a chain of pri- 
 mitive mountains, upon the ruins of which stands Quebec. As 
 i have before observed of the chain which passes the St. Law- 
 rence, and forms the Thousand Islands, I repeat respecting that 
 which traverses the same river near Quebec, that it was once 
 continuous, and confined the waters above it, forming a lake, 
 which must have been drained by some of those operations of na- 
 ture, which impose lasting changes upon our globe. 
 
 " When this opening was made by the force of the included 
 water, the land was le id bare on both sides of that river (St. 
 Lawrence,) as fur as St. Regis, including the islands of Montreal 
 and Jesus; and by the same operation, the land on both sides of 
 lake Champlain would be drained as far as Ticonderoga and 
 Whitehall.'' — Br. S. L. MitchiWs Notes on Cuvier 7 * Theory of 
 the Earth, page 39 1 . 
 
 This ancient lake was not bounded by St. Regis ; at that village 
 there exists no land of any considerable elevation above the level 
 of the water in the river that could set bounds to the included lake. 
 S have already observed that no current of any consequence exists 
 Ln the St. Lawrence, from lake Erie to the lower extremity of the 
 
XET. I^.] 
 
 RIVER ST. XAWKENCE. 
 
 Ill 
 
 indeed, is net much felt at several miles below it : from 
 hence there is scarce any variation in the general aspect of 
 the St. Lawrence, until arriving at the Richelieu rapid (about 
 52 miles,) where its bed is so much contracted or obstruct- 
 
 Thousand islands ; consequently the present depression of the 
 river commences at that place. The fa II. in St. Lawrence, is 
 from the beginning of its current, to tide water 231 feet, (see my 
 letter to Charles G. Haines, Esq.) therefore if any impediment 
 of that height was now raised at Quebec, the accumulated waters 
 would again assume a level to the west end of lake Ontario. It is 
 probable that the outer or Quebec barrier, yielded* before the up- 
 per, or that of the Thousand islands, and that a cataract of very 
 considerable elevation, existed for a great length of time near 
 where Brockville now stands. The waters, by their abrasion, 
 finally cut the inner granitic chain, and a depression in life depth 
 and . great contraction in the extent of lake Ontario was the effect. 
 It appears from the phenomena exhibited by most rivers, that 
 schistose secondary yields more slowly to the action of water, than 
 do primitive rocks, though the latter, are in fact, harder in their 
 texture, than the former, A stream glides smoothly over a bed 
 of horizontal slate, without producing much effect; primitive 
 rocks by their fractured surface, oppose points of contact to the 
 falling fluid which imperceptibly tears away the broken frag- 
 ments of rock, and finally gains a smooth uninterrupted channel. 
 All the rapids in the St. Lawrence rush over smooth, beds of floetz, 
 limestone, or sandstone, whicli have prevented the stream from 
 producing a greater effect upon the incumbent primitive strata 
 above, towards lake Ontario. 
 
 If a similar effect had been produced in the St. Lawrence that 
 has taken place in the Hudson, then would the Atlantic tides 
 have flowed to Niagara. The medium depth of lake Ontario is 
 about 82 fathoms, or 49 2 feet, and as we have already seen, the 
 difference of level between the surface of lake Ontario, and tide 
 water is 23 i ; of course the bottom of lake Ontario is generally 
 below tide water 2*6 1 feet. It is now evident that if the interven- 
 ing barrier was broken, the lake would again depress 23! feet and 
 leave immense spaces dry laud which are yet submerged ; though 
 a residue would remain which would still have a depth of 26 1 feet, 
 far greater than is now the case in lake Erie. 
 
 The breadth, strength, and texture of the composing materials 
 in the St. Lawrence, however, renders a farther depression of its 
 volume the work of unlimited ages, and compared with the 
 epocha in human history, the present order of things in that 
 quarter may be considered perpetual. No earthquake, short of 
 a convulsion which would disrupt the earth to its center could re- 
 
HlVi:K ST. LAWRENCE* 
 
 [let. IX. 
 
 « il by huge trusses of rock, as to leave but a wevy narrow 
 channel, wherein at ebb tide there is so great a descent, that 
 much caution, and a proper time of the ebb is necessary to 
 pass through if ; at the end of the rapid, there is a good an- 
 < borage, where vessels can wait their convenient opportuni- 
 ty. From Monti cul, thus far, the banks are of a very mo- 
 derate elevation, and uniformly level, but hereabout they 
 uw much higher* and gradually increase in their approach 
 to Qui bee, until they attain the height of Cape Diamond, 
 Upon which the city is built. At this capital of the pro- 
 vince and seat of government, tin re is a mosi excellent port 
 smd a capacious basin, wherein the greatest depth of water 
 is 28 fathoms, with a tide rising from 17 to 18, and at (he 
 .springs, fiom To to 2i feet. From whence, and from Point 
 Levi on the south shore, o:ie of the most striking panoramic 
 views, pes haps, in the whole w orld, offers itself to notice 5 
 the assemblage of objects is so grand, and though naturally, 
 yet appear so artificially contrasted with each other, that 
 they mingle surprize with the gratification of every beholder. 
 The capital upon ihe summit of the cape, the river St. 
 Charles, flowing for a great distance, through a valley, 
 abounding in natural beauties, the falls of Montmorency, the 
 island of Orleans, and the well cultivated settlements on all 
 *ddes, form together a coup d' eil, that might enter into 
 competition with the most romantic. At the basin, the St. 
 [Lawrence is two miles across, and continues increasing m 
 hreadth until it enters the gulf of the same name, where* 
 from Cape Hosier to the Mingan settlement on the Labia 
 
 ynove such enormous masses, and if such a catastrophe ever does* 
 occur, an entire change will ensue in rivers and lakes, and pro- 
 duce a new physiognomy on the earth's surface. I have lon^ 
 been of opinion, that the accidental agency of earthquakes and 
 volcanoes, has been overrated, whilst the slow, but constant in- 
 fluence of water has met with too little attention from philoso- 
 phers and naturalists. This subject will again come in review 
 when we are examining the features of lake Erie and Niagara 
 river* 
 
I,ET. IX.] 
 
 1UVEU ST. TAW'REKCE. 
 
 ilor shore, it is very near 105 miles wide. A little below the 
 i ity is the isle of Orleans, placed in the midway, consequent* 
 ly forming two channels) the one to the south is always 
 used by ships, the shore on that side is high, and on the op- 
 posite, in some places, it is even mountainous, but in both, 
 extremely well settled, and the lands in such a high state of 
 improvement, that a (urge tract in the vicinity of Riviere 
 <lu Sud. is familiarly called the granary of the province. 
 Beyond the island of Orleans are several ethers, as Goose 
 island, Crane island, and many small ones ; these two are 
 tolerably well cultivated, but the rest are neglected. At 
 Riviere du Sud, the great river is increased to eleven miles 
 in width, and the country that adjoins it, cannot be easily 
 rivalled in its general appearance. The great number of 
 churches, telegraph stations and villages, whose houses are 
 almost always whitened, are so well exhibited by the dark 
 contrast of the thick woods covering the rising grounds be- 
 hind them up to their summits, and the termination so com- 
 pletely defined by the distant range of lofty mountains 
 forming the boundary before noticed, that very few land- 
 scapes will be found actually superior to it. Beyond Riviere 
 du Sud, is a channel named the Traverse, which deserves 
 mention from the circumstance of the river beins: here thir- 
 teen miles across; yet the Isle aux Coudres, the shoal of 
 St. Roche, and another called the English Bank, interrupt 
 the fair way so much, that this passage, which is the usual 
 ione the pilots choose, is not more than from 17( 0 to 1800 
 yards between the two buoys that mark the edge of the 
 •shoals ; it is the most intricate part of the river below Que- 
 bec, the currents are numerous, irregular and very strong, 
 on which large ships must consult the proper time of the 
 tide to pass if without accident. On the north shore between 
 the Isle aux Coudres, and the main there is another channel, 
 but the current is &o rapid, the depth of water so great, and 
 I be holding ground so bad in case of heing obliged to anchor 
 within it, that pilots always give the preference to running 
 
114 
 
 -KIVELt ST. LAWRENCE. 
 
 [LET. IE. 
 
 tlj rough the Traverse. Not the smallest difficulty will ever 
 be found in making (his passage good, if the bearings ani 
 directions laid down upon my topographical map be duly at- 
 tended io. Passing the Traverse, a very agreeable view of 
 the settlements of the bay of St. Paul, enclosed within an 
 amphhheatre of very high hills, and the well cultivated Isle 
 aux Coudres at its entrance, presents itself. Continuing 
 down the river, the next in succession are (he islands of 
 Kamoura.sea, the Pilgrims, Hare Island, and the cluster of 
 small ones near it, named the Brandy Pots, these are reck- 
 oned 103' miles from Quebec, and well known as the ren- 
 dezvous, where the merchant ships collect to sail with con- 
 voy. From hence, at no great distance, is Green island, on 
 which h light-house, where a light is shewn from sun-set to 
 sun-rite, between the 15th of April to the 10th of Decem- 
 ber* Near Green island is Red island, and abreast of it on 
 the northern shore is the mouth of the river Sag ue nay, re- 
 inarhahlc even in America for the immense volume of wa- 
 ter it pours into the St. Lawrence. Proceeding onwards is 
 Bic island, 153 miles from Quebec, a point that ships al- 
 ways endeavour to make on account of its good anchorage, 
 as well as being the place where men of war usually wait 
 the comiftg down of the merchantmen ; next to Bic island, 
 is the Isle St. Barnahe, and a little farther on the Point aux 
 Peres- From this point the river is perfectly clear to the 
 gulf, and the pilots being unnecessary any longer, here give 
 lip their charge of such as are bound outwards, and receive 
 those destined upwards. Below Point aux Peres, are two 
 very extraordinary mountains close to each other, called the 
 Paps of Matanc, and nearly opposite them the bold and 
 Ibfty promontory of Mount Pelee, where the river is little 
 more than 25 miles wide, but the coast suddenly stretches 
 almost northerly, so much, that at the seven islands, it is 
 increased to 73 miles. The settlements on the south side 
 reach down thus far, but hereabouts, they may be consider- 
 ed to terminate, as to the eastward of cape Chat, the pro- 
 
xet. in.] 
 
 RIVER f P. XAtrRJ&NCE. 
 
 115 
 
 gress of industry is no longer visible ; on the north side, (he 
 cultivated lands extend only to Mallbay. In the river itself 
 nothing, (farther) claims our attention, except the separation 
 of its shores to the distance already mentioned, from cape 
 Rosier to the Mingan settlement. 
 
 « I must still trepass upon the patience of my readers long 
 enough to mention, that the observations hither made, apply 
 only to one part of the year ; and also, to notice, that from 
 the beginning of December, until the middle of April, the 
 water communication is totally suspended by the frost. 
 During this period, the river from Quebec to Kingston, and 
 between the great lakes, except the Niagara and the rapids, 
 is wholly frozen over. The lakes themselves, are never en- 
 tirely covered with ice, but it usually shuts up all the bays 
 and inlets, and extends many miles towards their centres. 
 Below Quebec it is not frozen over, but the force of the tides 
 incessantly detaches the ice from the shores, and such im- 
 mense masses are kept in continual agitation by the flux 
 and reflux, that navigation is totally iQipractieable in these 
 months. But though for this length of winter, the land and 
 water are so nearly identified, the utility of the river, if it be 
 diminished, is far from being wholly destroyed, for its sur- 
 face still offers the best route for land carriage, (if the me- 
 taphor can be excused ;) and tracks are soon marked out by 
 which a more expeditious intercourse is maintained by ve- 
 hicles of transport of all descriptions than it would be pos- 
 sible to do on the established roads, at this season so deeply 
 covered with snow, and which are available until the ap- 
 proach of spring makes the ice porous, and warm springs 
 occasioning large flaws, render it unsafe* When this altera- 
 tion takes place, it soon breaks up, and by the beginning of 
 May, is either dissolved or carried of by the current. 2 * 
 
 * This can only be correct in common years, as instances do 
 occur of the ice between Montreal aud Quebec • remaining after 
 the first of May. The ice in the Hudson river breaks up always 
 sooner than in the lower part of St. Lawrence, and even in the 
 
11C> 
 
 RIVER ST. XAWREXCE. 
 
 [LET. IX. 
 
 " The gulf of St. Lawrence, that receives the waters of 
 fhis gigantic river, is formed between the western part of 
 Newfoundland, the eastern shores of Labrador, the eastern 
 extremity of (he province of New Brunswick, part of the 
 proyince of Nova Scotia, and the island of Cape Breton. 
 Jt communicates with the Atlantic ocean by three different 
 passages, viz : on the north by the straits of Belieisle between 
 Labrador and Newfoundland 5 on the south-east by the pas- 
 sage from cape Ray; the south-west extremity of the lat- 
 ter island, and the north cape of Breton Island j and lastly 
 )>y the narrow channel named the gut of Canso, that divides 
 cape Breton from Nova Seotia. The distance from cape 
 Breton to cape Bay is 79 leagues, and from Nova Scotia to 
 Labrador one hundred and six." 
 
 [Bonchclte's Canada, page 32—55. 
 
 Jt has already been observed that the St. Lawrence was 
 rather a strait than a river ; below Quebec it assumes more 
 the character of a bay, than either that of a strait or river* 
 In such rivers as the St. Lawrence. Hudson, Delaware, Sus- 
 quehanna, Rio de la Plate, and Elbe, it is very difficult to 
 determine where the river ceases, and the bay commences. 
 Kxeept width, no essential change in the ordinary features 
 of the stream of the St. Lawrence takes place below Que- 
 bec. It is perfectly similar at the Island of Orleans, and 
 opposite Cape Rosier. 
 
 Amongst the most interesting problems suggested by a re- 
 view of this mighty river, is the comparative quantity of 
 water contained in its volume or discharged at its m< uth. 
 No river of this globe can ditfer so much in the mass of 
 contained fluid and its expenditure as the St. Lawrence. I 
 have already given a table of the area of this river and its 
 
 former, the i^e not unfrequeutly continues firm late in April, as 
 was the case in 1818, the present year. The occurrence of rain 
 Las the greatest agency hi producing the removal of ice in spring 
 in any river subject to be frozen hi winter. 
 
X.ET. IX.] 
 
 RlYEIt ST. XAWIIESCE. 
 
 117 
 
 lakes, expressed in square miles ; and have also observed 
 (hat the depth of the lakes was very unequal, and difficult 
 to reduce to a medium. Without pretending to a very strict 
 accuracy, I will endeavor to estimate the quantity of water 
 contained in the St. Lawrence and its lakes, assuming my 
 former superficies as data for the surface, and estimating 
 the depth from the best information in my reach. It ap- 
 pears from the united information of all those who have 
 made the necessary experiments, that lakes Superior and 
 Huron are vast, and in some places unfathomable gulfs ; that 
 of all the great lakes that of Erie is the most shallow, not 
 exceeding an average of more than 20 fathoms ; and that 
 Ontario varies from 75 to 89 fathoms, with a medium depth 
 of 82 fathoms. The St. Lawrence itself varies very much 
 in depth, and exhibits phenomena that shew its bottom to be 
 excessively uneven. In order to be within the limits of re- 
 ality, I have assumed a medium depth of 20 feet, for all the 
 surface contained in the last item of my estimate, of 1,500 
 square miles for the superficial area of St. Lawrence river 
 and the smaller lakes : I have also assumed for lakes Supe- 
 rior, Huron and Michigan 150 fathoms or 900 feet, and upon 
 these data have constructed the following : 
 
 TABLE 
 
 OF THE QUANTITY OF WATER CONTAINED IN THE ST. LAWRENCE; AKD 
 ALL ITS CON TRIBUTARY LAKES AND RIVERS. 
 
 Lake Superior, 
 Huron, - - 
 Michigan, * 
 Erie, - - - 
 Ontario, - - 
 St. Lawrence, ' 
 & other riv- 
 ers & smaller 
 lakes. 
 
 Medium 
 Depth. 
 
 900 ft. 
 
 900 ft. 
 
 900 ft. 
 
 120 ft. 
 
 492 ft. 
 
 Superficial Area 
 in feet. 
 
 836,352,000,000 
 
 557,5 68,000,000 
 
 376,898,400,000 
 
 418,176,000,000 
 
 200,724,480,000 
 
 41,176,000,000 
 
 Solid Contents 
 in feet. 
 
 752.716,800,000,000 
 
 501,81 1,200,000,000 
 
 339,208,560,000,000 
 
 50,181,120,000,000 
 
 98,756,444,160,000 
 
 83.520.000,000 
 
 12,430,894,880,000 ! 1 ,742,757,644,1 60,000 
 
tl& RlVfiti ST, LAWRENCE. ftET. IX. 
 
 Incredible as it will appear to yourself and most other 
 persons, it is nevertheless a fact thai this enormous mass of 
 fresh water is here underrated, and yet amounts to more 
 than one half of all the fresh water on this planet. This 
 'Unequalled source of water, you will perceive, propels d«wn 
 the St. Lawrence a stream that flows with nearly equable 
 quantity throughout the year. Amongst the many traits of 
 singularity, that give to the St. Lawrence a character ol 
 unity, none is more distinctive than the unchangeable quan- 
 tity and velocity of its current. 
 
 Another problem now presents itself for solution, that is 
 the quantum of discharge, which, though very large, dees 
 not bear a proportion to the mass contained. 
 
 Three places present themselves from where the dis- 
 charge can be calculated with most precision ; opposite 
 Black-Hock, in the Niagara Strait, and above Ogden's Isl- 
 and, at the Narrows, or at Point Iroquois. At all of these 
 places, the whole volume is contracted into less than a mile 
 In width, but flowing with great velocity. In estimating the 
 mean discharge of rivers, a general mistake is prevalent, to 
 assume the upper current as that of the whole river. Al- 
 io wing the St. Lawrence to be three-fourths of a mile wide 
 at any of the places I have pointed out, and to flow three 
 miles an hour, with a mean depth of fifty feet, the result 
 would be, that 4*4ransverse section of the river would con- 
 tain 105,600 superficial feet, which multiplied by 15,8*0 the 
 lineal feet contained in three miles, would yield 1,072,701,000 
 cubic feet as the hourly discharge. This estimate exceeds 
 by more than one half, the quantity I formerly calculated 
 for the expenditure of the Mississippi j (see Appendix No. 2,) 
 and, though contrary to my opinion when I first arrived on 
 the banks of the St. Lawrence, I am convinced falls below 
 reality. The greater surface drained by the Mississippi, 
 is counterbalanced by a much greater evaporation than 
 takes place on the St. Lawrence. 
 
 Yours respectfully. 
 
LET. ft] 
 
 SACKET's HAKB6S. 
 
 ±19 
 
 LETTE3, X. 
 
 $ac!:ti'$ Harlor, July ZQlli, 18±S. 
 
 DfiAR Sir, 
 
 I left Ogdensburgh the day before yesterday, and 
 came on in the Steam-Boat to this village, from which I ex- 
 pect to set out in a few hours. on my tour or voyage west- 
 ward. The extracts I have transmitted from Mr. Bou- 
 chette, will have given you the general outline of the natu- 
 ral features of the St. Lawrence ; it will be only necessary 
 for me to condense a recapitulation of the minute features, 
 to which 1 have been more particularly a witness. 
 
 With partial exceptions, the banks of this great stream 
 rise by acclivities of more or less inclination, from the mar- 
 gin of the water to often half a mile distance, and from 
 thence become more level in retiring farther from the river. 
 The soil, except among the granitic rocks of the Thousand 
 islands, is extremely fertile. 
 
 That part of its shores which I have traversed, lies in 
 the counties of St. Lawrence and Jefferson, in the state of 
 New-York, and is divided into the townships of Houndsfield 
 which includes this village, Lyme, Brownville, formerly Pen- 
 net's square, Le Ray, in Jefferson j. Eossie, Hague, Oswe- 
 gatehie, Lisbon, and Madrid, in St. Lawrence. On the Can- 
 ada shore, in ascending from opposite Hamilton, I traversed 
 the point of the township of Matilda, in the county of .Dun- 
 das ; of Edwardsburg and Augusta, in the county of Gren- 
 ville, and of Elizabethtown and Yonge, in the county of 
 Leeds. 
 
 In many respects this is amongst the most remarkable, 
 and certainly is one of the most diversified tracts on the St, 
 Lawrence. In the whole range from Broekville, in Eliza- 
 beth township, as far as I descended, the shores of Canada 
 
an 
 
 HlVtU ST. LAWRENCE; 
 
 [let. X. 
 
 present one expanse of cultivated land. The farms, from 
 the regular ascent of the ground, Lave a fine effect when 
 seen from the river or opposite shore. From the season of 
 my arrival and residence, I had a good opportunity to see tho 
 rapid advance of vegetation. On the 20th of May, very 
 littie progress in the foliage of spring was perceptible, and 
 vet the first of June was ushered in in all the richness of 
 vernal green. I have seen nothing to prepossess my mind 
 with a favorable idea of Canadian fanning, yet the crops 
 appear abundant ; orchards are neglected, though in apples 
 and pears very productive. Meadows have a peculiar rich 
 aspect, and no doubt reward their cultivators with an over- 
 flowing recompense. 
 
 The U. S. shore, from its recent settlement, remains most- 
 ly in woods, but where cleared presents a similar aspect with 
 the opposing bank. The progress of improvement on the 
 side of New-York, has been no doubt retarded by the land 
 remaining in the hands of a few wealthy owners, who by 
 demanding excessive prices, and by other injudicious ar- 
 rangements, have contributed to turn the tide of emigration 
 into other channels. 
 
 The timber is excessive for its quantity, variety, and gi- 
 gantic size. I had often an occasion to make a remark on 
 t'lis subject, which lam unabhTto explain. When I return- 
 ed to the middle states from the rallies of Ohio and Mis- 
 sissippi, I was every where from Richmond to Boston, struck 
 with the diminutive size of the forest trees, This impres- 
 sion continued until I visited the upper Mohaw k, where the 
 trees commenced to present the enormous trunks every where 
 seen on the Ohio and Mississippi waters. As I advanced 
 northwards, and particularly below the Thousand islands* 
 the hemlock, sugar maple, linden, elm, pine, and two or 
 three species of hickory, rose to a majesty of size and ele- 
 vation sufficient to excite admiration and astonishment. The 
 white pine in the neighborhood of Ogdensburg, affords often 
 masts of upwards of one hundred feet in length. 
 
LET. X.] 
 
 RIVER ST. IAWttE5X'E. 
 
 121 
 
 Oak is rare, and when k occurs docs not rival ia weight of 
 wood the oilier trees. Excessive labor is indispensable, in 
 clearing from its natural state, land covered with suefo a 
 dense forest ;. formidable as it is, it is failing daily, before tho 
 farmers and (he lumber workmen. Though so many more 
 attractive allurements have drawn emigration south- 
 west, yet the banks of the St. Lawrence are peopling slow - 
 ly. The caprices of mankind are difficult to reconcile. 
 With a soil at least equal, and with a climate incomparably 
 more congenial to their habits, it is curious that the north- 
 ern emigrant has so often neglected the banks of Si. Law- 
 rence to seek thore of the Mississippi. 
 
 Coldness, barrenness, and asperity of surface, are the 
 features in which the fancy of the people of our middle 
 states have clothed this country. No deception was cer- 
 tainly ever more complete. The reverse is the fact in eve- 
 ry point. It is doubtful with me, whether any part of the 
 earth can exhibit a more delicious summer than this suppo- 
 sed region of frost. Spring, in the acceptation of that term 
 as commonly applied in the middle and southern states, does 
 not here exist. The transition from winter to summer occu- 
 pies but a few days ; and all seasons are accompanied with 
 the highest behest of heaven, health. The pale cadaverous 
 visage of hopeless disease is seldom seen. If the inhabit - 
 ants earn their bread by the sweat of their brow, they eat 
 it with a good appetite. I am confident that the lumber 
 trade has been a severe injury to the inhabitants, and has 
 had no little agency in preventing a more rapid advance of 
 settlement and increase of wealth. I did not converse with 
 one man on the subject that did not give that opinion deci- 
 dedly, and some even with bitterness. It is a business with 
 excessive labor in its pursuit, and with poverty and hunger 
 for its common reward. Of all the occupations of man, 
 where the soil will admit culture, lumber merchandize is 
 perhaps the most exceptionable ; and yet, with all its obvi- 
 ous ruinous consequences, hundreds, upon a soil of exube- 
 
 K 
 
123 
 
 RIVER ST. I.AWKENCE. 
 
 [LET. X. 
 
 rant fertility, spend their lives between cutting and floating 
 timber, and wretchedness and dependence. 
 
 Small grain such as wheat, rye, oats, and barley, grow 
 extreme ly well. Indian corn here, as in most places where 
 late and early frosts frequently occur, must be a precarious 
 crop, yet it is much cultivated, and I am credibly informed 
 often yields a good product of twenty -live or thirty bushels 
 to the acre. 
 
 Bottom land, in the sense understood in the middle states, 
 there is none on the St. Lawrence. Upon the banks of the 
 Potomac, Susquehanna, Delaware, Hudson, and some of the 
 rivers of New England, alluvial bottoms are found, compo- 
 sed of the debris, carried down by the overflowing of the 
 streams from towards their sources, and deposited in the 
 form of rich flats. This latter kind of soil exists on the 
 Potomac, near Washington City ; on the shores of the Sus- 
 quehanna, near Hatrisburg ; on the Delaware river, above 
 Philadelphia to Trenton ; above and below Albany on Hud- 
 son ; in Connecticut, on the banks of Housatonick, Wal- 
 lingford, and more particularly Connecticut river. Viewing 
 St. Lawrence, I have frequently endeavored to imagine a 
 river, with whose scenery you were acquainted, and to 
 which this river bore a strong analogy ; but I knew none 
 possessing those strong resemblances, where preconceived 
 images could give an accurate conception of unseen objects. 
 The east bank of Hudson below the Highlands, and both 
 banks of that river from New burg to Red-Hook ; the banks 
 of the Mohawk below the Little Falls, and these of Con- 
 necticut river, near Middletown, afford landscapes whose 
 features have many traits of comparison with those of St. 
 Lawrence ; but with a tarn ewss unseen and unknown on that 
 noble stream. Tt is comparing an ir fant to a man, a pigmy 
 to a giant, or a rill to a torrent, to compare any of the east- 
 ern streams of the United States to the St. Lawrence. 
 
 I have alrrad , si ewn. that the Mississippi and its conflu- 
 ents present features so different; that nothing but contrast 
 
LET. X.] 
 
 RIVER ST. LAWEKNGE. 
 
 can be drawn between them and the Si. Lawrence. In pas- 
 sing from one stream to the oilier, a new world opens to the 
 traveller, the face of nature changes, the objects are of new 
 species, almost of new genera, and it is difficult to conceive 
 ourselves upon the same planet* 
 
 In nothing, however, do the two rivers so essentially dif- 
 fer as in their islands ; those of the Mississippi, like the 
 banks of that mighty stream, arc flat, many of them sub- 
 ject to overflow, none marshy ; those of the St. Lawrence 
 are mostly elevated, never entirely level unless marshy, and 
 always of an exuberantly rich soil* Both rivers are che- 
 quered with islands, but those islands have characters es- 
 sentially different j those of the Mississippi follow the di- 
 rection of that river* and seldom occur in groups ; those o^ 
 the St. Lawrence lie scattered promiscuously upon the face 
 of its current, and are almost always grouped* 
 
 Of the islands of St, Lawrence, after those of the Thou- 
 sand islands, the most remarkable are the Gallops, and 
 those in their vicinity. You will reoiember that I have re- 
 marked, that the St. Lawrence* from a little below Brocks 
 ville to three orfour miles below Ogd<-nsburgh* was entirely 
 free of islands ; then commence? a large group, of which 
 that of the ancient Fort Levi is the first in descending, and 
 that of Presque Isle above point Iroquois the last. I notice 
 particularly these islands, as they are a good representation 
 of the islands of 'frat river generally. 
 
 When descending the river in the middle of May, I was 
 particular impressed with the peculiar features of these 
 islands and being afterwards employed to survey them and 
 the adjacent shores, became necessarily intimate with their 
 position. 
 
 Some miles above OgdCnsburgh, even opposite Brock- 
 ville, a slight current is perceptible, which very gradually 
 increases, and at isle Fort Levi has assumed considerable 
 force. In the space between Hroekville and isle Levi, the 
 river varies in breadth from one to one and a half miles ; hut 
 
S1VEU ST. X.AWRENCE. 
 
 [let. X, 
 
 at isle Levi dilates to near two miles wide. To the north 
 of isle Levi lie a number of others, whose names being 
 merely local 1 omit, hut whose situation and appearance arc 
 in the highest dcgrc e elegant ami agreeable. Upon tw*o of 
 this group, our commissioners encamped, and upon one of 
 which was given (he .fete chumpctre I have already noticed. 
 Still lower down, commences the cluster more particularly 
 designated as the GALLOP ISLANDS. Here the river 
 is divided by the principal island into two channels, in each 
 of which the current runs with great velocity over ledgrs of 
 schistose limestone. Below the grand Gallop lie scatter- 
 ed (en or twelve more islands, between which, as also along 
 the shore, the stream flows very irregularly a:ul with great 
 velocity. Still lower down than the Gallops, and three miles 
 distant are two islands, past which the river continues to run 
 with the velocity of a cataract. The line between the (own- 
 ships of Ed wards burg and Matilda, and of consequence be- 
 tween the counties of Grenville and Dundas, strikes the 
 river opposite the Gallop islands and rapid. A short dis- 
 tance below* this line the river is united again into one vol- 
 ume, which in two places, point Iroquois and the Narrows, 
 is contracted into less ihym, half a mile wide, with a very 
 deep and rapid current. Ogck^s island, opposite Hamilton, 
 again divides the St. Lawrence into two unequal volumes, the 
 main stream being on the Canada shot**. From this place, 
 though the river presents two parts, as fk«> F-apid Plat and 
 Long Said, which arc marked as cataracts, ^ct in reality 
 from Hamilton to lake St. Francis, the whole tost a nee is 
 a rapid running \Vhh great violence. Thc.-i£ p of latitude is 
 rendered in a particular manner remarkable, by striking the 
 liver at the head of lake St. Francis; here the stream, 
 which, from the head of the Gallops has run with such pro- 
 digious velocity, becomes tranquil, and expands into a lake 
 of near thirty miles in length by three or four in width, with, 
 in many parts, low, marshy shores. Lake St. Francis con- 
 
XST. *.J 
 
 IMVEU ST. XAWUENCE. 
 
 125 
 
 tracts at its lower extremity into (he rapid of the Cedres, be> 
 low which, though the river occasionally flows with much 
 rapidity, it gradually loses its current in the level of the 
 tides. 
 
 Between Montreal and Ogdensburgh, the navigation of 
 this great' river is laborious, in some measure precarious, 
 and, without much skill and care, dangerous. It is a com- 
 pliment to (he vigijanpe aad foresight of the boatmen who 
 conduct the various rafts and vessels, that so few accidents 
 occur. A kind of keel boat, of nearly equal size prow and 
 stern, is the ordinary mode of transporting merchandize 
 from and to Montreal as high as Kingston. These boats* 
 are managed with great dexterity by the Canadians, who 
 handle with equal adroitness poles and oars. The rapids 
 are often so strong as to oblige the boatmen to use a drag 
 line, and it is wonderful the patience with which these mm 
 continue their exertions, against the force of the stream. 
 Descending demands little less labor, and more attention 
 than ascending. 
 
 Taken as a whole, I cannot conceive of a more pleasing 
 region than that along both shores of (he St. Law rence, and 
 when the United States' shore is as well cultivated and im- 
 proved as the Canadian, it will be a voyage of real pleasure 
 to pass along its current. 
 
 The islands were claimed by the St. Regis Indians, who 
 have made a sale of their right to the soil, to David A. Og- 
 den, Esq. Except Mr. Ogdcn's own residence near Hamil- 
 ton, and a few settlements made upon the grand Gallop 
 under lease from the Indians, those incomparably beautiful 
 islands are mostly uninhabited. Their settlement would add 
 very greatly to the decoration of the scenery of the country. 
 Human imagination could form an idea of places, where 
 more elegance of s^te and prospect would be combined, 
 than on almost a# of these islands. The fine seat of Mr. 
 Ogden, -opposite Hamilton, is an example. Clearing away 
 
 K2 
 
±26 
 
 GENEVA. 
 
 [LET. XI. 
 
 (heir shores would also facilitate navigation, by enabling 
 boatmen to take more advantage, than is now in their power, 
 «}f the opposing eddies and currents. 
 
 Yours, 
 
 LETTER XI, 
 
 Geneva, July 22, 181& 
 
 Bear Sik, 
 
 Bt the route of Great Soilus bay- I arrived yesterday 
 in this village. I left Sacket's Harbor on Sunday, and from 
 adverse winds, could not make Sodus before Monday morn- 
 ing, and Mas detained there until Tuesday morning, I did 
 not regret the detention, as it enabled me to examine the 
 bay and adjacent shores with some attention. 
 
 The bay of Great Sodus, lies partly in Seneca and partly 
 in Ontario counties* the division line running south from the 
 bead of the bay 5 having on the west, the township of Sodus 
 the north-east angle of Ontario, and on the east, the tow n- 
 ship of Wolcott, the north-west angle of Seneca county ; 
 with two villages, Troupsville in Sodus, standing on the 
 point between the bay and lake Ontario, and port Glasgow 
 standing at the head of the bay in Woleott. Neither of 
 these \iil s are yet of mueU consequence, but will no doubt, 
 keep pace with the progress of Oie adjacent country. 
 
 I have seen no map whereon Sov\ lls i s very correctly de- 
 lineated J on both Lay's and Eddy's ma^ die mouth is too 
 wide and not represented as much land Wkcd, as it is in 
 fact. Two points project towards each othei from the op- 
 posing sides of the bay, The western most of these pointy 
 
XET. XI.] 
 
 50BUS. 
 
 127 
 
 is composed of loose sand and pebbles, lip along (he lake, 
 and is, indeed, only the rubbish thrown up by the perpetual 
 surf which bears Hie shore. About half a mile from the ex- 
 tremity of the western point, an island lies in the mouth of 
 the baji united to the main shore by a natural causeway, 
 also formed, no doubt, by the surf of the lake. The space 
 between the island and point is the entrance into Sodus, has 
 about 8 feet water, and leads into an excellent harbor, safe 
 from all winds. 
 
 The siiores of lake Ontario, both east and west of Sodus, 
 are composed of vast banks of earth, twenty or thirty feet 
 high, and every where yielding to the abrasion of the waters 
 of the lake. One dense and continuous forest covers the 
 shore, occasionally relieved by new farms. The country is 
 extremely beautiful, picturesque and variegated, around the 
 bay. . The soil excellent* At the time 1 was there, the 
 fields were yet covered with grain, harvest being rather in 
 its commencement than completed. This circumstance 
 gave me some surprize ; I hud been often told that to 
 the west of Saekei's uarbor, the climate became more 
 mild in a given latitude. The phenomena, visible to me 
 since my arrival here, does not tend to give force to the 
 correctness of such an opinion. Sodus stands in N. lat. 43° 
 20* and very nearly due north from Washington City. 
 
 July 21st, at 8 o'clock A. M. I left Sodus and proceeded 
 towards this place. I found the intermediate stationary dis- 
 tances nearly as follows : 
 
 Miles. 
 
 From Sodus to Griffith's, - - —5 
 
 Reynold's, - 5—8 
 
 Village of Lyons, - - - 8 — 16 
 
 Geneva Church, . - „ g — %^ 
 
 Village of Geneva, - - * 6—30 
 
 On leaving Sodus, the road follows the bluffs of Ontario 
 two miles, frequently in view of the lake ; it then turns to 
 abruptly south, willing along the western side of Sodus 
 
[let. • XJ. 
 
 bay, and (hence over the ancient alluvion of lake Ontario 
 to Reynold's. What is called (he ridge road or natural 
 turnpike is passed at Griffith's. Contiguous to Sodus the 
 surface of the ground is broken-* the vallies are, however, 
 only the fissure worn sinee the rece ssion of lake Ontario j¥ 
 as when the height of the table land above the bay is attain- 
 ed,, a plain of great extent commences with very little as- 
 perity of surface. It is evident that lake Ontario has re- 
 ceded at different times. The natural turnpike is upon 
 the alluvial •plain ; upon this ancient shore of the lake its 
 waves' must have beat many centuries, and yet incontestable 
 document exists to prove, that, for perhaps as many or more 
 
 * FROM THE ROCHESTER TELEGRAPH. 
 
 " Something for Geologists. — In sinking a well at Carthage, a 
 short time since; the workmen discovered twelve or fifteen ft'Ogs, 
 t^bedcM in a layer of close compacted marl, about nine feet 
 belqw tl e surface. Particular care was taken to discover whe- 
 ther any communication vvith the surface could have existed ; but 
 it was satisfactorily shewn that there was none. They were of a 
 li brbWn (Color, apparently about half grown, and very active. 
 Tfoey \ere in a kind of nest, like mice, and appeared to be iso- 
 I i> om the rest of animated nature. We have heard of frog* 
 be sf. Sfecdv-fereti in tiecs, and in rocks ; but have never before 
 v itiu ssed. them so far under ground. In sinking the same well about 
 foiii feet farther, several more frogs were discovered in a layer 
 of loose sand, totally disconnected with the superincumbent stra- 
 tum, or with any possible communication with the exterior. It is 
 believed by the writer, that they have existed therefrom the period 
 of the recession of lake Ontario*, which is probably not less than a 
 thousand years: if so, their longevity surpasses that of Thomas 
 Farr of the moderns, or Methuselah of the ancients, and deserves 
 to be recorded. The doubter is challenged to produce his rea- 
 sons. • X. 
 
 44 Carthage, Nov. 7, 1818." 
 
 Though I do not believe the last recession of lake Ontario to 
 have taken place within a thousand years past, I have published 
 the iaboVe as a curious fact, both in the revolutions of our globe 
 
 fl in the laws of animal life. Many instances are however on 
 record of cold blooded animals existing in marl, limcstcrcy and 
 marble. 
 
.XET. XI.] 
 
 laYONS. 
 
 centuries, (his lake must have had a surface twenty or thirty 
 feet above the natural turnpike. 
 
 At Reynold's the alluvial plain terminates, and a very 
 rugged, hilly region commences. The transition is abrupt, 
 and here from every appearand**, was the original south 
 shore of lake Ontario ; at times the remoteness pi which I 
 have not the temerity to attempt a calculation. Above 
 Reynold's, the road leaves the alluvial piain and ascends the 
 hills by a gorge, over the mouth of which is a natural cause 
 way, which was evidently formed by a process similar to that 
 which formed the points of Sodus bay and the natural cause- 
 way, though at least thirty feet above the latter. 
 
 The timber from Sodus to the hills is generally composed 
 of hemlock, sugar maple, red oak, black oak, elm, and lin- 
 den, the soil extremely fertile though too flat ; and very 
 much mixed with rounded granitic pebbles. 
 
 The face of the country from Reynold's to Lyons is ex- 
 cessively broken ; the hills are not very elevated, but ex 
 tremely abrupt and steep with a fertile soil. Lyons stands 
 upon the bank of the outlet of Canandaigua lake, a short 
 distance below where that outlet joins JViud creek. The 
 village occupies the verge of the hills, and stands upon a ve- 
 ry broken site. The route of the grand canal is traced 
 through Lyons, and up the valley of Mud creek to its source. 
 The outlet is a large creek, with banks much more resem- 
 bling a bayou of lower Louisiana than a water course of the 
 state of New-York. Lyons has a Nourishing appearance 
 amid a fine increasing settlement. 
 
 Crossing the Canandaigua outlet J found myself upon a 
 country generally level, but not so- talncJy qniform as the 
 alluvial plain of Ontario. Cultivatio i now increased at ev- 
 ery step; the soil excellent, fine farms, meadows and orch- 
 ards on every side, which continued to the village of Ge- 
 neva. 
 
 This is one of the few towns in America named from i 
 tswn in Europe, where common sense and analogy were eon* 
 
GENEVA. 
 
 [iET. XI. 
 
 suited in the borrowed nomenclature. Geneva stands in the 
 township of Seneca, Ontario county, at the lower extremity 
 of Seneca lake. It is built along the margin of the lake 
 extending about half a mile in length. The site of the vil- 
 lage is truly delightful, standing upon a waving ridge lying 
 parallel to and rising 50 or 60 feet above the water in the 
 lake j the view of which is extensive and romantic. The 
 opposite shore in Seneca county rising gently from the wa- 
 ter to considerable elevation, clothed with timber or che- 
 quered with farms. To the north and north-east the pros- 
 pect is also charming, and is now a sea of golden grain, rich 
 orchard or meadow ; the houses appear to stand in an 
 ocean of plenty, I have never visited a place which seems 
 to combine in so small a compass so much to please in the 
 softer features of rural landscape. I was detained here one 
 day, and amused myself in walking along the banks of this 
 beautiful lake, and could not avoid exclaiming, that here, 
 with health and competence, could I spend the remaining 
 years of ray life, without a sigh to return to the bustling 
 commercial capitals, where for so many years I had scarce 
 enjoyed a quiet day. My reveries were the dreams of fan- 
 cy excited by a weariness of travelling, the painful recollec- 
 tion of absent family and friends obtruded, with the addi- 
 tional subject of regret that every day carried me farther 
 from that family and those friends. 
 
 We are seldom left without some subject of consolation. 
 I had a letter from Gov. Clinton to Col. Robert Troup, of 
 Geneva, which procured me a kind and friendly reception, 
 and every aid in the prosecution of my object. To this can- 
 did, gentlemanly and hospitable old soldier, I am under ob- 
 ligations that will carry their recollection lo my grave. 
 To meet with such men when far from home amongst 
 Strangers, excites feelings* that no man need attempt to im- 
 agine, who has not been in a similar situation with me, when 
 I met with the venerable Col. Troup. 
 
LET. XT.] 
 
 CAXAXDA1GUA, 
 
 m 
 
 Canandaigua, July 2%, 1818, 
 Yesterday in (he afternoon I quit wilh regret the village 
 of Geneva, and proceeded on foot towards Canandaigua $ the 
 distance is 16 miles by the following stages : 
 
 
 
 
 Seid's, 
 
 
 —01 
 
 Parson's, 
 
 
 2—03 
 
 Densniore's, 
 
 
 1 — 04 
 
 Torrence's, 
 
 
 1—05 
 
 Whitney's, 
 
 
 2—07 
 
 W. D. Murray's, 
 
 
 3—10 
 
 Hart's & Woodward's 
 
 
 1—11 
 
 Canandaigua, 
 
 
 5—16 
 
 The day was excessively warm, and towards evening 
 threatened rain. The lowering clouds, however, contribu- 
 ted Co give additional amusement to that I enjoyed in viewing 
 the truly charming country through which 1 whs travelling. 
 The face of the earth has in the intervening distance from 
 Geneva (o Canandaigua, neither the dead monotony of the 
 alluvial plain of lake Ontario, or the harsh features of the 
 hilly region north of the village of Lyons. Hill and dale 
 now present themselves with diversified but gentle effect. 
 
 When I had reached the slope that leads down to Canan- 
 daigua lake, evening was rapidly advancing ; the black rain 
 clouds gathered heavy over the eminences to the south of 
 the "town of Canandaigua, which was now in full view though 
 three miles distant. The scenery every moment became 
 more and more interesting, and my mind more deeply inter- 
 ested. While descending the steepest part of the hill, I 
 was rapidly passed by a man in a single horse carriage, w ho 
 stopped as soon as he gained the bottom and awaited my com- 
 ing up, and very frankly invited me to take a seat beside 
 him, which I gratefully accepted. He then drove rapidly 
 forwards, as the rain commenced to fall in large drops. 
 When we came to the lower extremity of the Canandaigua 
 lake, and the extensive fields, orchards and meadows near 
 
13& 
 
 CANANDAIGUA. 
 
 [LET, XI, 
 
 the town came in view, I expressed, my admiration at th@ 
 state of improvement every w here risible ; my fellow travel- 
 ler replied— " twenty nine ;;ears ago 1 came up this outlet, 
 " and at that time no mark of the human hand was here to 
 " bt* seen, except those made by savages* a village of whom 
 
 existed on that point/ 9 — shewing me the lower end of the 
 now Nourishing town of Canandaigua. I could r.ot doubt 
 bis information, though there was something in the short- 
 ness of the period, when compared with the effects of ho man 
 labor under my eye, that seemed almost the effect of magic* 
 
 "We arrived at the public house, just in time to save our- 
 selves from being drenched in a heavy shower, and after I 
 bad returned him my acknowledgements for bis politeness, 
 he informed me that his name was Yates, and that he was 
 then in his 72d year. His hale, healthy and firii} aspect* 
 rendered this part of his information as remarkable as his 
 short but impressive history of Canandaigua. The whole 
 scene was in fact one of those, which was calculated to ex- 
 hibit the rapidity of improvement in the United States* 
 This mm entered this then wilderness, at an age commonly 
 considered as the meridian of life, 43 years; and while- yet 
 in the vigor of his limbs and faculties, a smiling residence ibr 
 civilized man bird arisen under his eye. 
 
 I arose this morning early, in order to examine this won- 
 der of western New-York, and was not disappointed in my 
 anticipations; I found it by far the most richly built town of 
 its extent I had ever seen. It does not admit of comparison 
 vith Geneva ; the two places so essentially differ in their lo- 
 cality and position respecting the lakes on which they are 
 built, that few traits of resemblance exist between them, 
 Both are objects of astonishment when we recollect how 
 short a period has elapsed since a forest occupied their po- 
 sition. 
 
 I found the site of Canandaigua to be that of ao inclined 
 plane, rising from the lower extremity of the lake of the 
 same name. A valley, or rather bottom, skirts along ihe 
 
XET. XI,] 
 
 CANANBAIGITA. 
 
 133 
 
 south side of the (own, beyond which the country rises into 
 hills of considerable elevation ; to the north and nortk-w^st 
 extends a waving but not hilly country ; the east side is oc- 
 cupied by the lake and low grounds of its cutlet. 
 
 The town extends in a street of upwards of a mile m 
 length from the lake, rising by a very gentle acclivity. Ma- 
 ny of the houses would decorate the oldest and fnost exten- 
 sive cities in the United States, and from a number of places 
 the view of the lake and surrounding country would reward 
 a tour of considerable distance. I sincerely doubt w hether 
 a more desirable village exists in the United States, if in the 
 world. * 
 
 * On my return from the westward, and during a few days stay • 
 at Canandaigua, the following statement made its appearance in 
 the Ontario Repository. I have not the least doubt of its cor- 
 rectness, except as. respects the population, which is certainly 
 underrated if any judgment can be formed upon the extent of the 
 town and the number of persons that are to be seen in the streets, 
 
 " THE VILLAGE OP CANANDAIGUA. 
 
 " A few days since, three gentlemen, from a laudable curiosity, 
 volunteered their services to take a census of the inhabitants re^ 
 siding within that part of the town of Canandaigua, Which is in- 
 corporated, as a village, and to ascertain the number of buildings 
 it contains. It will doubtless be interesting to our citizens, and 
 gratifying to the public, to know the result. 
 
 " From the statement it appears, that the village contains 1788 
 souls, of whom 9J9 are males, and £59 females, and including 
 136 blacks, of whom 30 are slaves. Of the whole number, 47 I 
 are under the age of 10 years — 184< between 10 and 2 1 — and 
 over 21. Of buildings, there are 21/ dwelling-houses, 39 ston > 
 76 shops, 30 offices, and 153 stables. The above are exclushe 
 of the public buildings, viz. one congregational meeting-house,* 
 one episcopal church, one methodist chapel ; a court house, a 
 jail, and a county clerk s office ; an academy and five school- 
 houses. Of the buildings, we believe not one is vacant, except 
 half a dozen stores. It ought to be added, that besides the aca- 
 demy, which is undergoing a thorough renovation, and the com- 
 mon and Sunday schools, there are two respectable private fe- 
 male seminaries, in which the higher branches of education are 
 successfully taught. The style of building may he said to be not 
 inferior to any, since travellers, who make public their remarks, 
 call our village not only well, but extravagantly built. 
 
££Jb fUNANDAieVAk [LET. XI* 
 
 Canandaigua is the scat of justice for the rich, fertile* and 
 flourishing county of Ontario, and occupies one of the most 
 eligible agricultural and commercial positions in our western 
 country ; it has now a water communication with the Seneca 
 river by the outlet of its Jake, which as I before observed 
 unites with Mud creek at Lyons, and the united stream meet- 
 ing the discharge of Seneca and Cayuga lakes, below Monte- 
 zuma, forms Seneca river. The peculiar construction of 
 Shis country can only be seen by recurrence to a map ; either 
 Lay's or Eddy's exhibits with precision the interlocking wa- 
 ters ; but neither have attended with sufficient care to the 
 ranges of high land. The best map, in the latter respect* 
 that I have seen, is that of Mr. John H. Eddy, of the West- 
 ern part of the state of New- York, published in 1811. As 
 1 intend to give you a recapitulation of the peculiar geologi- 
 cal structure of the route of the intended Grand Canal, and 
 contiguous parts, I will enter less minutely at present into a 
 topographical review of this neighborhood. You will hear 
 from me again soon after my arrival at Buffalo, and visit to 
 the Falls of Niagara* In the interim, I remain* as ever* 
 Sincerely yours. 
 
 (e The above surely presents a flattering account of the prosper 
 rity of the pleasant village in which it is our happiness to dwell 
 While other places round about us boast how early they have 
 become great— how by magic their trees have been converted 
 into houses — old Canandaigua has been growing apace, display- 
 ing the sturdy vigor and healthful aspect of natural increase. 
 
 u Cut flattering as tins account may appear, some danger is to 
 be apprehended from the number of taverns and groceries em- 
 braced in the limits of the village. Who, that has not counted 
 them, would suspect that there are no less than fourteen taverns ? 
 Of groceries, there are also too many. The public convenience 
 does not require such a number of inns, and their toleration can- 
 not but he detrimental to the morality of the town. Public offi- 
 cers, whose duty it is to regulate these things, should recollect, 
 that it is much easier to prevent, than to root out the evils which 
 grow from such causes/' 
 
LET. XI.] ©It EAT WESTERN CANAL. 
 
 135 
 
 LETTER XL 
 
 [The following correspondence took place after my return 
 to NewYork, and therefore not in order of time with the other 
 communications made during my tour ; but being relevant to 
 the subject of my letter from Geneva and Canandaigtw, 1 
 have judged it most expedient to insert the subject in this 
 place.] 
 
 Neiv-Fork> October 2, 1818. 
 
 William Dauby, Esq, 
 
 Sir, — The New- York Corresponding Association for the 
 Promotion of Internal Improvements, solicit your aid and 
 patronage towards the great objects of the institution. Will 
 you please to answer the following questions : 
 
 1. What canals and water communications could be con- 
 nected with the line of the great western canal, in our state, 
 for the promotion of internal improvements ? 
 
 2. What great roads could be united to tht line of the west- 
 ern canal, in our state, for the promotion of the same object ? 
 
 3. What advantages does New-York possess over New- 
 Orleans for supplying the country north-west of the Ohi® 
 river, with goods and merchandize ? 
 
 With high considerations of respect, I am, sir, 
 Your ohd't servant, 
 
 CHARLES G. HAINES. 
 
 Neiv-Fork, October 11, 1818. 
 
 Mu, C. G. Haines, 
 
 Sir— Yours of the 25th ult. was duly received, but the 
 pressure of my private business on my return from a tour of 
 nearly five months, prevented an earlier attention to ydur 
 communication* Y 7 ou request my opinion in the first instance 
 upon — ► 
 
136 
 
 ORG AT WESTERN" CANAD. [LET. XII. 
 
 What canals and water communications could be con- 
 nected With the line of the great western canal, in oar state, 
 for the promotion of internal improvements, 55 ' 
 
 The most obvious, and by far the most beneficial water 
 communication iliat; can be made between the great west- 
 ern cana! and circumjacent rivers, is (he contemplated canal 
 between the head of Seneca lake and the Susquehanna. If 
 the two canals were now completed as far as Seneca lake 
 and Cayuga river, the inhabitants of Pennsylvania and New- 
 York states, would exchange their heavy but invaluable ar- 
 ticles of coal, gypsum, salt, iron, and pot metal. 
 
 Three obvious points of water* connexion, between the 
 great western canal and lake Ontario, present themselves— 
 by the Niagara, Genesee and Oswego rivers, all of which 
 are obstructed by cataracts of more or less depression from 
 (he lowest part of the plane of the canal to the surface of 
 the lake. 
 
 Before proceeding farther in this investigation, permit me 
 io make a few geographical remarks. The commercial fa- 
 cilities naturally existing between the Atlantic states and the 
 valleys of the Mississippi and St. Lawrence,} may be divi- 
 ded into three great divisions ; which we will designate as 
 the Northern, Middle and Southern. All that part of the 
 
 * In ternal Improvements. — It appears by a report of the com- 
 missioners appointed to explore the route of a 'contemplated ca- 
 nal, between Seneca lake and Tioga river, that there can be ob- 
 tained a supply of water at tiie summit level, adequate for every 
 purpose — that the fall towards Seneca lake is 140 feet, and will 
 require 57 locks; that towards Tioga river is 43 feet, requiring 7 
 locks. The length of the canal is estimated at about 20 miles. 
 Among the inducements held forth for opening this navigation, 
 are, the transportation of military stores to the frontier, in the 
 event of future wars, and to send our salt and plaster to Pennsyl- 
 vania, and to receive their iron and coal in return.". — Niagara 
 Fat riot. 
 
 t By the valleys of the Mississippi and St. Lawrence are here 
 meant, all the region watered by the tributary streams of these 
 Biighty rivers. 
 
X.ET. Sal;] 
 
 137 
 
 continent of North America, watered by the St. Lawrence 
 river and confluent branches, to (he north of Che Falls of 
 Niagara, must have a commercial outlet and inlet by that 
 great rivef, through Montreal and Quebec, — South and 
 Southwest of the Rapids of Ohio, at the town of Louisville, 
 the produce of human industry will pass to New-Orleans, 
 and the articles of necessity and luxury, not found in the 
 country, will be purchased in that city. Between the Chute 
 of Niagara and that of Loui&ville, from the Allegany moun- 
 tains to the sources of the rivers of lake Superior, w ill form 
 the middle commercial district, and New-York, Philadel- 
 phia and Baltimore, will divide the profits of exchange ; 
 Cincinnati, Pittsburg, Detroit and Buffalo, will be in the mid- 
 dle, what Kingston and York, in Upper Canada, will be in 
 the northern, and what Louisville, St. Louis, Natchez and 
 Natchitoches will be in the southern division. Partial inter- 
 communications may, and no doubt will, daily occur in com- 
 mercial- exchange between the points of contact of these 
 natural sections, but these interchanges must be viewed as 
 exceptions to a great permanent rule formed by nature her- 
 self* 
 
 In examining the subject of any improvement, MAN 
 uught to seek what is practically useful, and not exhaust upon 
 idle fanciful speculation, what is due to attainable objects of 
 real utility. A water route from the Atlantic ocean to the 
 immense western waters, has now arrested the attention of 
 the most enlightened citizens of New-York and Pennsylva- 
 nia ; and the subject is one, upon which the pens of ttie 
 ablest politicians or economists of these great states, may 
 be most beneficially employed. It is an object worthy the* 
 deepest reflection of a public mind, at once rich in experience 
 and strong in moral youth. It is to be regretted that in the 
 developement of our natural advantages* local prejudices* 
 party and personal animosities should impede the progress of 
 rational research. It is wretched logic, to confound ques* 
 
 L 
 
GREAT WESTERN CANAL. 
 
 [LET. XII. 
 
 Hons of national interest, with the trifling views of faction, 
 or the narrow conceptions of corporation politics. 
 
 I have met with two works on a similar subject ; one, 
 "A topographical description of the province of Lower 
 Canada, and on the relative connexion of both provinces, 
 with the United States of America." By Joseph Boi> 
 ciiETTE, Esq. 
 
 The other, « A Sketch of the Internal Improvements al- 
 ready made by Pennsylvania ; with observations upon her 
 physical and fiscal means for their extension ; particularly 
 as they have reference to the future growth and prosperity 
 of Philadelphia." By Samuel Breck, Esq. 
 
 Whoever reads attentively these two treatises, will I regret 
 to say, find very nearly as much liberality from Mr. Bou- 
 chette, respecting the United States in general, as from Mr. 
 Breck, when contrasting the city of Philadelphia with the 
 neighbouring cities of New-York and Baltimore, and partic- 
 ularly New-Orleans. The latter writer^indeed appears in 
 one point to extreme disadvantage, he seems to consider 
 Pennsylvania as an incidental or secondary object, when in- 
 eluded in the same prospect with her commercial capital ; 
 Mr. Bouchette, to his credit, extends his views to the causes 
 which may lead to the aggregate prosperity of all the Cana- 
 das, and does not confine his anticipations to Quebec. 
 
 To a reader unacquainted with the relative political posi- 
 tion of affairs on this continent, both ot these writers would 
 appear to be inhabitants of countries environed with rival and 
 even hostile states. This spirit of rivalry is as injurious as 
 a generous emulation would be beneficial to the progress of 
 improvement. The inherent principles of human nature 
 will, however, operate, maugre all that sophistry can op- 
 pose to their progress. Men will carry their superabun- 
 dance to the best markets, whether in New-York, Philadel- 
 phia, Baltimore, New-Orleans, or elsewhere. 
 
 Mr. Breck, page 13, anticipates the time when the com- 
 merce of the waters of the Missouri and Mississippi, be- 
 
LET. XII.] GREAT WESTEUX CANAX. 
 
 130 
 
 yond the mouth of Ohio, will come to Philadelphia ; in fine, 
 that an era will arrive when human beings will toil 1,600 
 miles mostly up stream, to obtain a worse market than they 
 could find by floating down stream half (he distance. If this 
 prophecy is e.ver realized, the old proverb, *< go farther and 
 fare worse,' 5 will receive a very remarkable application. 
 
 I notice Mr. Breck's work as it embodies much of the 
 common place philosophy on the subject upon which I am 
 now descanting. To consider that gained to Pennsylvania 
 which is lost by New-York, or vice versa is just about as 
 correct, as it would be for an individual to desire a palace 
 for a residence with mud-walled, thatched-covered, hovels, 
 to decorate the prospect from its portals. In fact, the ad- 
 vance of any city or state of our common country has a re- 
 flective effect ; the science, wealth, and liberal institutions 
 of any part, must shed their kindly Ueams upon the whole, 
 and (he illumination must be stronger in direct ratio to ap- 
 proximation to the centre of light. 
 
 But to return to our subject. The relative territorial ex- 
 tent of the three great commercial sections of the central 
 parts of our continent, Is as nearly as I estimate them, as 
 follows : 
 
 sq. MILES. 
 
 Valley of the St. Lawrence below Niagara, 210,000 
 Middle or central section, 320,000 
 South and southwestern section, 1,200,000 
 Each of these grand divisions have their appropriate ad- 
 vantages, which it is, and will continue to be the duty of the 
 inhabitants respectively to improve. Of the three, the 
 greatest number of practical and indispensable canals and 
 roads, can and will be formed in the middle or central sec- 
 tion. Until the completion of the great Western Canal be- 
 tween the waters of the river Hudson, and those of lake 
 Eric, that between the Seneca lake and the Susquehanna 
 river, and that between the Hudson river and lake Cham- 
 
SUIi.iT WESTERS CANAL. 
 
 [let. XII* 
 
 plain, no others ought to be ever seriously thought of by the 
 citizens of this state. 
 
 Your second inquiry is, " What Great Roads eould be 
 united to the line of the Western Canal, in our state, for the 
 promotion of the same object ?'* 
 
 This latter inquisition would admit of a much wider range 
 than the. former, if pursued in all its details; there is 
 scarcely live miles upon the whole line of the canal, from 
 which useful and necessary roads may not be drawn ; but of 
 these, two obtrude themselves to immediate notice. One to 
 the village of Hamilton upon the Allegany river, in Cata- 
 raugus county, and the other between the towns of Buffalo 
 and Hamilton, The lately perceived importance of these 
 two latter places, has prevented their having excited the in- 
 terest they so eminently deserve. The proper point of eon- 
 tact with the canal, or its confluent waters, by the Hamilton 
 road, is something difficult to fix with precision. Geneva, 
 and Canaudaigua, present each some respective advantages 
 of position when contrasted with each other* and have eith- 
 er a decided superiority, as points of departure, over any oth- 
 er places in this state. I have visited both these (owns, and 
 from information there received, have no doubt but that ex- 
 cellent roads can be formed, from each to Hamilton, at no 
 extraordinary expense. If I was called upon to dictate a 
 plan upon this subject, I would direct the formation of a 
 turnpike road from both Geneva and Canaudaigua, in the di- 
 rection towards Hamilton. These roads should converge 
 somewhere in the northwest angle of Steuben county, at or 
 near the village of Dansviile, or Arkport, and run thence 
 to Hamilton by Angelica. No loads that could be possibly 
 formed in this stale, in addition to those already made, would 
 produce so great and immediate benefits, as these I have 
 traced. If this route was laid open by good roads, it would, 
 even independent of the Grand Canal, become instanter the 
 thoroughfare between (he New-England states and the Ohio 
 Valley. To those who are acquainted with (he extent and 
 
hET. XII J GREAT WESTERS CAXAt, Jft 
 
 mass of the title of emigration now setting southwest, and 
 annually increasing, the advantages of such a route will be 
 apparent. Much eEnharrassment is now experienced by em- 
 igrants from Massachusetts, New-Hampshire and \ crmont 
 states, for the want of a direct and easy mci*ns of transpor- 
 tation to Pittsburgh. No part of the western territory of 
 New-York is so thinly peopled, as the country included la 
 Steuben, Allegany and Cataraugus counties; good roads 
 would tend greatly to encourage settlement. 
 
 Though not equal in importance or necessity with the 
 roads from Hamilton to Canandaigua and Geneva, yet a 
 good solid road from Hamilton to Buffalo, would be of great 
 utility and convenience to the people who inhabit the extreme 
 western section of this state. In a military point of view, 
 the latter road would be of incalculable advantage in a war 
 with Great Britain, in opening more extensively than ai pre- 
 sent exists, lines of ready communication with our interior 
 and Canadian frontier. 
 
 It is much to be desired that a good road was also carried 
 from Hamilton to Pittsburg. In execution of such a work, 
 the people of New-York and those of Pennsylvania ought 
 to act in concert : both parties are deeply interested, though, 
 the former rather more than the latter, as the country upon 
 the Allegany is yet but thinly inhabited* From the influ- 
 ence of frost in winter and heat in summer, many of otu* 
 rivers are rendered useless as channels of communication, 
 often half the year. This is the case with all our interior 
 streams north of Maryland. Durable roads are, therefore, 
 as indispensable as canals, and in places where heat may ex- 
 haust or cold congeal water, roads and canals ought to be 
 formed co existent, and made in their turn subservient to 
 the facility of human intercourse, ;|nd the augmentation of 
 human enjoyment. 
 
 The road from Utica to Sacket's Harbor, though already 
 epen, demands very extensive improvements, I travelled 
 fhrs route in the scemd week of last May, asd found manv 
 
142 
 
 Gil RAT WESTERN CANAL. 
 
 [LET. XII. 
 
 parts in a wretched state. The season was indeed exti emcly 
 inclement ; n time, therefore, that the roads could not he 
 expected to afford pleasant travelling ; but if they were well 
 formed and preserved with care, they will at least always 
 secure safe conveyance. It would be waste of time to point 
 out the very high importance of a goal road, solid at all 
 seasons of the year, from the interior of the state of New- 
 York, to the most exposed and by far the most valuable mili- 
 tary and naval station on our Canadian border. 
 
 The following are the stationary distances of each of the 
 proposed roads, as near as I have been able to estimate. The 
 distance and stations upon the road from Utica to Sacket's 
 Harbor, were taken from the former to the latter town. 
 The others arc taken from Eddy's Map of New -York, a very 
 meritorious work lately published : 
 
 Jlilcs. 
 
 From Utica, over the alluvion of the Mohawk 
 
 river, - - - 1 1-2 
 
 Height of land between the Mohawk and hike 
 
 Ontario, - - - .3 1-2—5 
 
 Tillage of Trenton, - 8 13 
 
 Sugar Creek, one of the head branches of 
 
 Black river, - - - 23 36 
 
 Thus- far the road is now tolerable, but from Sugar Creek 
 it fellows, generally, the valley of Black river, and is in ma- 
 ny places barely passable, in the spring season. 
 Martinsburgh, seat of justice for Lewis coun- 
 ty, - - - 14 3-4—50 3-4 
 Lowville, - - -3 1-2—54 1-4 
 Deer river, a large and impetuous branch of 
 Black river— a good wooden bridge where 
 the road passes, - - - 10 — - — 04 3-4 
 
 Watertown, on the left bank of Black river, 16 SO 3-4 
 
 Brownville, right bank of Black river, 4 84 3-4 
 
 Jacket's Harbor, - - . * § ~— 92 3-4 
 
LET. XII.] 
 
 GREAT WESTERN CANAL 
 
 1*3 
 
 A direct road runs from Watertown to Backet's Harbor, 
 distance 8 miles, but at (he time I travelled the country, this 
 latter road was pronounced impassable. I was, therefore, 
 obliged to take the more circuitous route by Brownville, and 
 of course traverse Black river twice. Good bridges have 
 been formed over that precipitous stream, at Watertown and 
 at Brownville. 
 
 Route from Geneva to Hamilton. 
 Height of land between Canandaigua and Crooked 
 
 lakes, - - - - 30 
 
 Arkport, - - - - - 20— -50 
 
 Angelica, - - - - - 20 70 
 
 Hamilton, - - - - - 30 — 100 
 
 Intersecting route with the above, from Cannadaigua. 
 Naples, - - - 20 
 
 Arkport, - - - - 23 — ; ±3 
 
 From the foregoing it will be seen, that the distance from 
 Geneva is 100, and from Canandaigua 93 miles, to Hamilton. 
 The land distances could be shortened by passing by water 
 from Geneva, through the Seneca and Crooked lakes, and 
 from Canandaigua, by the Canandaigua lake. If the proposed 
 roads were made, it is probable they would intersect near 
 the Conhoetoa branch of Susquehanna, or between the Con- 
 hocton and Arkport. Diverging roads could be easily form - 
 ed from the main lines to the heads of Canandaigua, Seneca, 
 and Crooked lakes, and thus open still more extensively the 
 channels of transportation, in a very improvable and im- 
 proving country. 
 
 From the head of Crooked lake to Bath or the Conhoc- 
 ton, is only about 5 miles. From Bath, rafts and boats can 
 be and have been conveyed down the Conhocton into the main 
 stream of Tioga, and finally into the Susquehanna river. 
 Route from Hamilton to Buffalo. 
 
 MILES. 
 
 Cataraugus Creek, - - - - - 30 
 Buffalo, - - - - - - - - 30^-60 
 
GKF.AT WEJTEKJT GANAL. 
 
 [LET. XII. 
 
 This distance is measured upon the map direct ; it is not, 
 however, probable, that a road could in reality be made in 
 less llraii 70 or 75 miles between Buffalo and Hamilton. The 
 face of the country from the Allegany river to Cataraugus 
 creek, at>d for some considerable distance north of the lat- 
 ter stream, rises info high hills. The road would cross the 
 faille land between the waters of the Ohio and those of lake 
 Erie. It may not be irrelevant to remark, in this place, a 
 circumstance of considerable import in the investigation of 
 the subject of the connexion between lake Erie and Ohio 
 river. Jlv actual admeasurement, as reported by Mr. Gal- 
 latin, Brownville, or rather the Monongahela river at thai 
 town, is elevated 850 feel above tide water in Chesapeake 
 Bay ; and by careful measurement made in preparing for 
 the commencement of the great western canal, the surface 
 of lake Erie is elevated 565 feet above the tide water in th& 
 Hudson river at (he city of Albany. From this data, the 
 Monongahela at Brownville, is 285 feet higher than the 
 surface of lake Erie. I am well acquainted with the Mo- 
 nongahela river between Brownville and Pittsburg, and 
 cannot be induced to consider the waterfall from the former 
 to the latter place above 45 or 50 feet perpendicular : which 
 estimate, if correct, w ould yield a fall of nearly £50 feet 
 from Pittsburg to Buffalo. This statement will be relieved 
 from all improbability by a very cursory glance upon a map 
 of our continent. The muel) greater distance from Pitts- 
 burg to tide waler ia the gulf of Mexico, than from 
 Buffalo to tide water in St, Lawrence river wiH^he apparent, 
 It has been found from actual survey, as marked upon Ed- 
 dj's map of Niagara river, that the difference of level be- 
 tween lake Erie and Ontario is 334 feet. Supposing the 
 gulf of St. Lawrence rml the Hudson river at Albany to be 
 on a level, and the distance cannot be considerable, there 
 are 565, less 334, or 231 feet as the fall of water from the 
 bottom of lake Ontario, to tide water in St. Lawrence river ; 
 a prodigious depression for the distance, and amply accounts 
 
GREAT WESTERN CAXAL. 
 
 for (he rapidity of (he rapids a( Grand Gallop, Point Iro- 
 quois, Rapid Plat, Grand Suut, and St. Mary's Rapid helovr 
 Montreal* 
 
 Assuming (lie above heights and depressions as correct, 
 (here will be about 250 feet from any inicrtenifig point more 
 depression (o reach the waters of lake Erie (ban those of 
 the Ohio a( Pittsburg* The dividing ridge approaches in 
 Cataragus county, near Portland, within less than five mile* 
 of lake Erie. Sailing along (hat lake, within about three 
 miles from the New- York shore, this ridge appeared to me 
 to be 1000 feet high ; some of its points I was then led to 
 believe at least 200 feet still more elevated than the general 
 range of the hills. About 20 miles S. W. of Buffalo this 
 ridge first appears distinctly visible from Lake Erie, and 
 continues in view beyond the town of Erie, and from (hence 
 gradually retires into the state of Ohio ; in clear weather it, 
 however, remains in sight from the lake, even opposite the 
 mouth of Sandusky bay. Huron and Cayahoga rivers in- 
 dent it, and when opposite the mouths of these streams it 
 disappears, but in the intervening space rises prominent 
 above the adjacent country. 
 
 Your third and last subject of enquiry is, "What advan- 
 tage does New-York possess Over New-Orleaus, for supply- 
 ing the country, north-west of the Ohio river, with goods and 
 merchandize P* 
 
 To this interrogatory, I would answer briefly, that as 
 matters now stand, it would be nearly, if not altogether as 
 idieap, to ship goods and merchandize from the former to 
 Hie latter city, and have (hem thence transported by water 
 to Cincinnati, or even to Pittsburg, as it would be to con- 
 vey them by the embarrassing land and water routes now ex- 
 isting between the Hudson and Ohio rivers.* The complex 
 
 * On this subject I have since found that I was mistaken, as 
 the following documents will show. If in the present situation 
 of affairs, goods can be transported as stated from New-York to 
 Pittsburg, consequences flowing from the Grand Canal are easy 
 to foresee— -a very great commercial revolution* 
 
±10 GREAT WESTERN CANAL. [LET. XII. 
 
 lion of the canal from the Mohawk to the Seneca, and a good 
 road from thence to Hamilton, would, if nothing else was 
 done, change the face of affairs. New-York would then en- 
 joy the benefits of her nearer approximation to the water of 
 the Ohio ; she would he enabled to counterbalance, by her 
 existing capital, the superior local advantages of New-Or- 
 leans ; and she would forever preserve her now relative rank 
 amongst the cities of the United States. If a direct water 
 tommunication was open with lake Erie, the resources of 
 
 FROM THE ALBANY ARGUS. 
 
 " In our columns of to-day, will be found an advertisement for 
 the transportation of merchandize to the western states and ter- 
 ritories ; and we have likewise subjoined the printed lists of routes 
 to Pittsburg, through the stale of New- York, and cannot but ex- 
 press our astonishment that the efforts of the adventurer to ac- 
 quire for this state so very lucrative a branch of commerce, have 
 hitherto been unaided by an enlightened public. From the above 
 mentioned list it appears, that by two routes property can be con- 
 veyed from the city of New-York to Pittsburg, in the state of 
 Pennsylvania, for five dollars per cwt. ; by a third at five dollars 
 and a half, and by a fourth, at five dollars and three quarters per 
 cwt. The largest estimate as to time, does not exceed forty days $ 
 the residue thirty to thirty-five days. 
 
 " It has been said, that the western merchants are generally anx- 
 ious to buy their goods in New- York, where assortments are more 
 easily obtained, at a cheaper rate, than at Philadelphia : but that 
 the risk and delay of the voyage by sea, or the expense of land 
 carriage, from New- York, compels them to give the former place 
 a preference : in fine, that Philadelphia and Baltimore have re- 
 gular forwarding establishments on which the western trader can 
 jit all times rely ; while New-York for want of capital or enter- 
 prize, cannot afford them the same accommodation. 
 
 " The object of the advertiser appears to be, to convince the mer- 
 chants of Kentucky and Tennessee, by offering to them the choice 
 of four distinct routes, that New-York possesses advantages su- 
 perior to those of Pennsylvania and Maryland ; that in no case 
 will his charge per cwt. equal that of Philadelphia and Baltimore 
 per hundred pounds ; and that if the purchases be made in the 
 city of New- York, the mode of conveyance now recommended, 
 on the score of safety and expedition, must claim a decided pre- 
 ference 
 
 " We confess ourselves converts to the correctness of his opin- 
 ions—indeed, all doubts are removed by the circumstance of his 
 
LET. XII.] 
 
 GREAT WESTERN 1 CANAL. 
 
 147 
 
 the state and this city w ould be si ill more enlarged. We 
 have been in the habit of undervaluing the regions watered 
 by the confluent waters of the Canadian lakes. The real 
 fact is, that in many respects the countries, contiguous to ti e 
 great chain of interior seas, are superior to most parts of 
 our continent of equal extent. The soil is generally good, 
 and every where produce, in abundance, the Cereal gram in a. 
 To the west of Niagara, as far as lake Superior, the cli- 
 mate is mild. All the shores of lakes Erie and Michigan* 
 
 engagement to transport at those prices ; and it is no more than 
 justice to express our conviction, that Mr. Smyth would not un- 
 dertttke what he cannot perform. Apart from the advantages 
 which would accrue to those of our citizens, who are immedi- 
 ately concerned in this carrying trade, the general interests of 
 our state would be greatly promoted by the success of the con- 
 templated project. The mere expenditure of one million of dol- 
 lars* per annum, at which the transportation from Philadelphia 
 and Baltimore to Pittsburg has been calculated, enormous as the 
 amount may be considered, would be trifling in comparison to the 
 increase of active commerce in our cities — of the immense ac- 
 cession of patronage and support to our steam-boats and other 
 numerous establishments in the interior. 
 
 <; The trouble and expense of maturing these extensive ar- 
 rangements, must have been sufficient to appal and discourage 
 an ordinary mind. Mr. Smyth deserves great praise for his en- 
 terprize and perseverance, and when we consider the interest 
 w hich the state has at stake in the success of the undertaking, we 
 most heartily wish that this public spirited individual may fully 
 realize the fruition of his hopes." 
 
 "Albany, \ 6th November, 1818. 
 <• I take the liberty to lay before you the annexed Advertise- 
 ment and List of Routes to Pittsburg. In addition to the state- 
 ments therein contained, allow me to inform you, that during the 
 w inter season, transportation to kuy point west of Albany can be 
 obtained at very reduced prices. If goods therefore were pur- 
 chased in New- York immediately before the closing of the river, 
 and shipped to this city to wait for sleighing, they can, beyond a 
 doubt, be delivered at O'ean for $2.50 per cwt., with a certainty 
 of reaching Pittsburg on or about the first of April. Winter 
 transportation between New- York and Albany never exceeds 
 three dollars, and is frequently no more than two dollars per cwt. 
 
 * We have seen this expense stated at three millions of dollars per annum, 
 
GREAT WESTERS CAN At; 
 
 [LET* XII. 
 
 undercut pari of those of Huron, will afford fine settle- 
 merits. With but very few exceptions, those regions are 
 healthy and supplied with excellent water. 
 
 Let the produce of their labor pass where it may, the 
 number of human beings that are now daily pasiing Buffalo 
 will soon dissipate the forests and supply their places with 
 towns, villages, farm-houses, fields, meadows, orchards, and 
 gardens. The beautiful and highly cultivated lands of the 
 strait of Erie, are now a specimen, of what in forty years 
 will be the landscape from Niagara to Chieaga* 
 
 u Although the navigation of the Allegany, from Olean to* 
 Pittsburg, may 'be depended upon more safely in the spring and au- 
 tumn than during the summer months, yet a person well acquaint- 
 ed with that river has engaged to convey for me any quantity of 
 property, at least once a week, and appears to feel the utmost 
 confidence in his ability to reach Pittsburg at all times between. 
 April and December, in eight days. 
 
 u Respectfully soliciting your influence in favor of the under- 
 taking, I remain 
 
 " Your most Obed't Serv't. 
 
 « CHARLES SMYTH." 
 
 u TRANSPORTATION TO PITTSBURG, THROUGH THE STATE OF 
 NEW-YORK. 
 
 " The subscriber having lately formed a connexion with a gen- 
 tleman residing near the head waters of the Allegany river, again 
 offers his services to the Merchants of the Western States and 
 Territories, as agent to transport property of every description 
 from the city of New- York to Pittsburg, in the state of Pennsyl- 
 vania. Assortments of goods, (not single packages, or those 
 whose bulk is out of all proportion to their weight) if shipped at 
 New- York on board the sloops of the 6 Western Lin»,' will be 
 delivered at Pittsburg for Five Dollars per cwt., all charges, 
 except cooperage, included. Six months credit, with interest, 
 will likewise be given, when demanded, for approved New- York 
 or Albany acceptances. 
 
 " For more particular information, printed lists of the several 
 New- York routes have been transmitted to Messrs. Richard Bow- 
 en & Co. Pittsburg, and Mr. Benjamin Armitage, No. 54 Pine- 
 street, New-York. 
 
 « CHARLES SMYTH, 
 
 " Albany, \6th November, 1818." 
 
XEX. Xll.j 
 
 GLE11 WESTERN CANAL. 
 
 119 
 
 Jt is a very gratifying anticipation, to behold in our fancy 
 the epoch to come, when this augmenting mass of population 
 will enjoy, in the interior of this vast continent, a choice 
 collection of immense marts, where the produce of the 
 banks of innumerable rivers and lakes can be exchanged,, 
 
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 GREAT WESTERN CANAL. 
 
 [XET. Xii. 
 
 on or near (he shores of (he Atlantic ocean for the conven- 
 iences of Europe, and (he luxuries of the Indies. 
 
 In the Edinburgh Review, for June, 1818, when speaking 
 of Mr. Morris Birbeck's tour in America, and the stream 
 of population passing from the borders of the Atlantic ocean 
 into the region we now call relatively western : occurs this 
 remarkable passage : 
 
 w Where is this prodigious increase of numbers, this vast 
 extension of dominion to end ? What bounds has nature set 
 to (he progress of this mighty nation? Let our jealousy 
 burn as it may ; let our intolerance of America be as un- 
 reasonably violent as we please ; still it is plain that she is a 
 power in gpitjp of us, rapidly rising to supremacy ; or, at 
 least, that each year so mightily augments her strength, as 
 to overtake, by a most sensible distance, even the most for- 
 midable of her competitors. In foreign commerce she comes 
 nearer to England than any other maritime power, and al- 
 ready her mercantile navy is within a few thousand tons of 
 our own ! if she goes on as rapidly for two or three years, 
 she must overtake and outstrip us." 
 
 Such are the impressions already made in Europe by our 
 existing state, such the views of our future progress ! The 
 bounds that nature may have in preparation, to limit the 
 prosperity, wealth, power or science, of the people of the 
 United States will never be seen by either you or me. With 
 sentiments of sincere esteem, I am, dear sir, yours, 
 
 WILLIAM DARBY, 
 
 Charles G. Haines, Esq.""] 
 Cor. Sec'ry. of (he Socie- V 
 ty for (he Promotion of f 
 Internal Improvement. J 
 
JJST. XII I. BUFFALO; 151 
 
 LETTER XIII, 
 
 Buffalo, July 31, 1818. 
 
 Dkar Sir, 
 
 On the 24th inst. I left Canandaigua, and arrived here on 
 the 27th, I have, as usual remitted the stationary distances, 
 as by recurrence to particular places I can more clearly 
 convey precise information upon the topography of the coun- 
 try. 
 
 
 
 Miles. 
 
 Canandaigua to Ross's, 
 
 
 —2 
 
 Bates's & Shaw's, 
 
 - 
 
 2 4 
 
 Steel's, 
 
 
 1 —5 
 
 Loomis's, 
 
 
 1 6 
 
 Carter's 
 
 
 1 —7 
 
 Church in Bloomiield, 
 
 
 1 8 
 
 Eggle's, 
 
 
 2 1-2—10 1-2 
 
 West Bloomiield, 
 
 
 3 —13 1-2 
 
 Honeoy creek, 
 
 
 1.2—14 
 
 Minor's, 
 
 
 1-2—1 i l-£ 
 
 Tinker's, 
 
 
 1 i-2— 16 
 
 Lima Church, 
 
 
 1 1-2 — 17 1-2 
 
 Brown's in Avon, 
 
 
 g 1-2—21 
 
 W. T. Hosmer's, 
 
 
 3 —24 
 
 Albert Hosmer's, 
 
 
 2 —26 
 
 Genesee river arid bridge, 
 
 
 3-4—26 3-4 
 
 Sylvester Hosmer's, 
 
 
 3 1-2—30 1-4 
 
 Caledonia, 
 
 
 3 1-2 — 33 3-4 
 
 Nash's, 
 
 
 2 1-2—36 1-4 
 
 Ganson's in Leroyville, 
 
 
 2 3-4—30 
 
 Clark's, 
 
 
 4 —43 
 
 Daniels's, 
 
 
 2 —45 
 
152 
 
 BUFFALO. 
 
 [1.ET. XIII. 
 
 Miles. 
 
 Churchill's. 
 
 2 
 
 — 17 
 
 J*! ecocide/ ftti'a — 
 
 1 1-2—13 1-2 
 
 
 
 ■2 — 51 
 
 AlpClriiokon'^ hriilefi over 
 
 Ton new an (a 
 
 
 
 
 —55 
 
 M lil/UA 3, • • 
 
 
 — J/ 
 
 X UUaylvj s 9 
 
 
 
 TVTiipi'Ipp prppk. - 
 
 JTl Ul Uvl. l/l ttl\) 
 
 - - O 
 
 — oij 
 
 rTftl fUPQ's - - 
 Jl.UlIllv.3 3, 
 
 X 
 
 — ui* 
 
 1 Ui It l 3, 
 
 8 
 
 —77 
 
 Miller's. 
 
 J.? JL 1 1 1 v.' 1 3, 
 
 
 —81 
 
 Hcnshaw's, 
 
 1 
 
 —82 
 
 IJopkin's, 
 
 1 
 
 —83 
 
 Atkins's, 
 
 « - 3 
 
 —86 
 
 Averill's, 
 
 3 1 
 
 -2—88 1 2 
 
 BUFFALO, 
 
 2 1 
 
 -2—91 
 
 Leaving Canandaigua, the country along the road for sev 
 eral miles continues flat, and in some places even swampy. 
 The soil exuberantly fertile, timber, sugar maple, elm, lin- 
 den, white hickory, ash, hemlock, and some oak. The 
 farms have a fine appearance, and the whole country seemed 
 in a state of rapid improvement. The rapidity in which the 
 public houses succeed each other, evince the great publicity 
 of the road. 
 
 Great pains have been taken in West New-York, to open 
 and render convenient the highways ; but in few countries 
 are the construction of good roads more difficult. The rich 
 fertility of the soil, and its depth of vegetable mould, though 
 so very desirable in an agricultural point of view, oppose 
 very serious obstacles against the formation of roads. In 
 the winter season, unless when the surface is completely fro- 
 zen, travelling must in this quarter be very difficult and 
 painful. 
 
 Approaching Bloomfield, a very great change in the as* 
 peat of the ground is visible ; the dull monotony now disap* 
 
LET. XIII.] 
 
 GENESEE UIVBR. 
 
 pears, hills gradually rise into considerable elevation. A 
 circumstance is here apparent (hat is really a mutter of as- 
 tonishment. As you perceive the surface of the earth swel- 
 ling into eminences, you find the ridges all lying parallel to 
 each other, and to the chain of lakes which form the Seneca 
 river. This configuration continues to Buffalo, and to the 
 Falls of Niagara. In many parts of the road I found my- 
 self continually rising and falling over this chain of ridges 5 
 and could not avoid observing, that if their intervening val- 
 lies were filled with water, a cluster of islands would be pro- 
 duced, of astonishing resemblance to that of the Gallops in 
 St. Lawrence river. The ridges have the same regular 
 globular swell which you will remember I have noted, as 
 characteristic of the features of the Gallops. 
 
 Schistose limestone extremely fissured, is the first rock 
 that is seen, overlaid by sand, rounded pebble, and vegetable 
 earth. No farther change worth notice occurs between 
 Canandaigua and Genesee river. That stream has a very di- 
 minutive aspect. I am convinced that all travellers are dis- 
 appointed in their anticipations of its volume. When I pas- 
 sed the Genesee, its waters were rippling over its pebbly bed 
 at the bottom of a deep but narrow channel, of not above 
 50 yards in width. A good substantial covered wooden 
 bridge has been erected where the road passes. 
 
 The west side of this river for about two miles, is formed 
 by what iscalledlhe Genesee flats. These are extensive allu- 
 vial plains ; the part passed by the road is held by the Seneca 
 Indians, and like all lands under the control of savages, lies 
 mostly in its natural state. 
 
 Passing the flats, a country commences essentially differ* 
 ent from that east of Genesee. Oak becomes now the pre- 
 valent timber, a very serious deterioration of soil prevails* 
 every object bespeaks a region of much less productive pow- 
 er, than that which gives bloom to the vicinity of Geneva 
 and Canandaigua. Farms are now less frequent* and have 
 
 M 
 
TONNEWAtfTA CREEK. 
 
 [LET. XIII. 
 
 far less prosperous features thau those I so much admired to 
 the eastward. 
 
 Approaching Batavia, the seat of justice in Genesee coun- 
 ty, another change presents its variety ; ponds and flats in- 
 tervene amongst the hills, and give to the hot (orris of the 
 Tonnewanta the look of recent and moist alluvion. Batavia 
 is a flourishing village, hut to me, neither itMmprovements 
 or seite was so pleasing as I expected. I remained one 
 night in this town, (July 25ih) and on the morning of the 
 26th sat out for Buffalo. The road follows for some miles 
 the valley of the muddy and sluggish Tonnewanta. Had not 
 the timber prevented such a deception, I might have imagi- 
 ned myself following the sinuosities of a stream of the low- 
 er Louisiana; but the dark green of the immense hemlock 
 forests, reminded me that I was tracing another region. 
 Hemlock, beech, sugar maple, and linden, compose the mass 
 of the timber. The soil is excellent, but too flat for either 
 health or very beneficial culture. Schistose limestone forms 
 the base, overlaid as I have before noted. 
 
 After passing a short distance over Murder creek, the road 
 leaves the Tonnewanta, and rises into a hilly, broken country, 
 in which, however, some tolerable extensive flats occur. 
 This part of the country is rendered most worthy of re- 
 mark, from the enormous masses of schistose fissured blue 
 limestone. Many places are seen where this rock covers 
 large spaces, and has every appearance of having once form- 
 ed the bed of a body of water. I did not perceive the exis- 
 tence of shells in the composition of this stone, but my time 
 and opportunity was too limited to admit extensive research ; 
 to note the general appearance pf the country was all that 
 was in my power. Timber in this neighborhood, pine, elm, 
 sugar maple \ soil fertile, though agriculture must in many 
 places be incommoded by the large bodies of naked or slight- 
 ly covered limestone. 
 
 Water courses all flow north-west into the Tonnewanta. 
 and every where wash the rough surface of the fractured 
 
.LET. XIII.] 
 
 BUFFALO. 
 
 155 
 
 limestone, and before reaching the main stream fall over 
 considerable precipices of the same rock. 
 
 Five miles from Buffalo, at Atkins's, near the seat of 
 judge Granger, the last of those creeks cross the road, and 
 within about two hundred yards to the north of where it 
 passes, the road falls down a considerable ledge. The coun- 
 try then assumes a waving rather than a hilly appearance, 
 to within about a mile from Buffalo, when an almost uniform 
 plain commences, which is terminated by the banks of lake 
 Erie. 
 
 It was evening when I arrived in Buffalo, therefore unable 
 to gratify my curiosity by a review of the place until the 
 morning of the 28th. The events of the last war between 
 the United States and Great Britain, had rendered Buffalo 
 an object of interest to the American traveller. I also felt 
 anxious to see lake Erie, which in addition to its natural po- 
 sition, had also gained a rank amongst the parts of our coun- 
 try, which during the same war that exposed Buffalo and 
 "Washington to the flames of an incendiary, also gave re- 
 nown to the nation, and left land-marks of glory which will 
 only be effaced by the ruia of the world and human litera- 
 ture. 
 
 I arose early in the morning and hasted to examine the 
 village and its vicinity. Like most other new towns, Buffa- 
 lo is composed in great part by one street following the 
 course of the road towards the eastward, though the town 
 itself lies very nearly in a north and south direction, A few 
 others cross the main street, but are but little improved. 
 But very little appearance remains of the destructive rage 
 of war. Most of the houses are rebuilt, but as in Kingston, 
 some vestiges still exist to attest the fury of invasion. Ma- 
 ny good and convenient, and some elegant dwellings and 
 store houses have been erected since the termination of the 
 last war. Three or four excellent inns, and many decent 
 taverns offer their accommodations to the traveller. 
 
156 
 
 [LFT. X1XI. 
 
 j Tlie natural situation of the town of Buffalo, though 
 presenting nothing either grand or striking, is nevertheless 
 extremely advantageous as a commercial depot. The at- 
 tendant diagram will exhibit its relative situation as respects 
 lake Erie, Buffalo creek, and the adjoining parts of New- 
 York and Canada ; but. cannot convey an adequate concep- 
 tion of the minute features of its local. Buffalo creek en- 
 ters lake Erie meandering over an alluvial plain, whose sur* 
 face is not elevated above the ordinary level of lake Erie 
 more than four or five feet. This plain extends down the 
 lake and Niagara river, terminates above Black Bock, and 
 is about 300 yards wide. Rising above this plain fifteen or 
 twenty feet, extends another level composed of sand, rounded 
 pebble, and a substratum ot\ vegetable earth. Upon the 
 latter stands the town of Buffalo. 
 
 The creek is formed by the union of Cayuga, Seneca, and 
 Oizuiovi i branches ; which rising in the hills to the 
 south-easts approach Buffalo by a very rapid current, 
 which* however, subsides before the united waters reach 
 lake Erie. Seneca and Cayuga creeks rise in the town- 
 ship of Sheldon, in Genesee county, interlock with the 
 Tonnewanta, and How nearly parallel to each other to- 
 wards the north-west, enter Niagara county, and contin- 
 tiing the same direction about twenty miles in comparative 
 course, turn to the west, and unite live miles a little 
 south of east from the town of Buffalo. Cazenovia creek 
 rises in the south-east angle of Niagara county, interlocking 
 with the head waters of Cafaraugus, flow s nearly parallel to 
 Seneca, falls into the united streams of Seneca and Cayuga 
 three miles south-east of Buffalo, and from thence to their 
 junction with lake Erie take a common name with the town. 
 
 The harbor formed by this creek is excellent and perfectly 
 safe from all winds ; but from the shallowness of the bar at 
 its mouth, will only admit small vessels of four or five feet 
 draught. A light-house is now standing upon the point be- 
 tween (he lake and creek, and is certainly a great conven- 
 ience to persons navigating the lake. The creek is navigabl e 
 
J*ET. XIIl.] 
 
 BUFFALO. 
 
 157 
 
 for boats to (lie first forks above its mouth, from whence 
 upwards it is interrupted by falls. 
 
 Large vessels are obliged to be anchored out in the lake 
 or fail down below Bird island in the mouth of Niagara 
 river. The current commences to be apparent opposite the 
 mouth of Buffalo creek, but is l here very gentle, gradually 
 and imperceptibly augmentisu* as the strait contracts, until 
 opposite Black Rock, where the whole volume is less than a 
 roi'e wide; the velocity of the stream cannot be less than 
 five or six miles an hour, with a medium depth of from 
 twenty to thirty feet. 
 
 I walked down the beach from the mouth of the creek to 
 the village of Black Rock. The greatest part of the dis- 
 tance (two miles) is a sand bank. From the mouth of the 
 «reek about half a mile the shore is low, but then rises into 
 a ridge of at least ten feet perpendicular height above the 
 water. This enormous bank of sand and flat pebbles has 
 been produced by the dashing of the waves for imlimited 
 ages, and is no doubt daily accumulating. Its elevation 
 must originate with the winds unaided by tho water, as no 
 storms that could now occur, would ever raise the surge of 
 the lake to the higher part of the bank. 
 
 Bird island is nothing more than a mere ledge of rocks 
 vising above (he surface of the M ater, but admirably situated 
 to shelter vessels from almost all winds that could much af- 
 fect them in this place. 
 
 Ever since my arrival on the St. Lawrence waters, I have 
 been impressed with reiterated facts, which combine to prove 
 the general prevalence of a current of air which moves in 
 the same direction with the waters. So incessant is the 
 prevalence of this wind upon the St. Lawrence, below the 
 Thousand islands, that the entire forests have a visible bent 
 to the north-east. The same effect is very perceptible near 
 Sacket's Harbor, and after crossing the Genesee river trav- 
 elling westward, becomes more and more apparent as lake 
 Bri« is approached. The orchards are particularly influen- 
 
BLACK ROCK, 
 
 [let. XIII 
 
 £edby this current, and between Batavia and Buffalo are so 
 regularly and so uniformly bent eastwards, as to appear al- 
 most the effect of design in those who have planted the trees. 
 Near the beach of lake Erie, this, I may say, -almost un- 
 changing wind has forced the forest trees to assume a stoop- 
 ing posture. 
 
 July 2i)(h I visited Black Rock. This is a small but ap- 
 parently a thriving village, two miles north of, and built 
 upon the same plain with Buffalo. Here the banks of the 
 Niagara river or strait, present a very exact resemblance 
 with those of the St. Lawrence, from Brockville to Hamil- 
 ton. Rising by gentle acclivity from the water ; both sides 
 of the river being cultivated afford a line prospect, though 
 from its longer settlement, the Canada shore is much more 
 improved than that of New-York. Unless in a cataract, I 
 never before witnessed so large a mass of water flowing with 
 such prodigious rapidity. The bottom of the river is com- 
 posed of smooth rock, over which the water glides. If 
 the stream flowed over broken masses of stone it would 
 be impassable. 
 
 After viewing Black Rock I took advantage of a boat go- 
 ing down, and hasted towards one of the great objects of 
 my journey, the Falls of Niagara, The day was intolerably 
 warm, with scarce an air of wind to move a leaf. I found 
 the river much more winding than I had expected from the 
 maps 1 had seen. Our boat followed the west channel, leav- 
 ing Grand island to the east. Passing this island I was 
 struck with its remarkable resemblance to many of the St. 
 Lawrence islands, having a similar swell rising from the 
 water. Some new openings are now making, but the great- 
 est part of its surface is yet forest. I had no means of ex- 
 amining the timber, but at a distance the trees had a similar 
 mixture with the opposite shores, hemlock, sugar maple* 
 film, oak, and iinden.* 
 
 "* Since my return to New-York, the following appeared if* the 
 
XET. XUfrl.] 
 
 TONNE WANTA CHEEK. 
 
 Tonnewanta and EUicott's creek enter (he east channel of 
 Niagara strait very nearly opposing to the middle of Grand 
 island. Extensive marshes and swamps skirt the Tonnewan- 
 ta from its mouth, for more than twenty miles upwards* 
 This creek or rather river, rises in the town of OrangeviJle, 
 in the south side of Genesee county, interlocking with the 
 sources of Cataraugus and Buffalo creeks, and wi<h some 
 streams which euter the west branch of Genesee river. 
 From its source the Tonnewanta crosses in a northern direc- 
 tion Orangevillc, Attica, and Alexander townships, reaches 
 Batavia after flowing about twenty-five miles ; it thence 
 gradually curves to the north-west, west, and south-west by 
 west, falls into Niagara river forty miles from Batavia, hav- 
 ing an entire course of sixty-five miles. This stream has 
 now become an object of interest, from the circumstance of 
 
 public prints, extracted from the Niagara Journal, published at 
 Buffalo. • 
 
 FROM THE NIAGARA JOURNAL. 
 
 " Population of Grand Island. — A very considerable settlement 
 of squatters has been made upon this island, principally in the 
 course of the last season. There are now, we are informed, more 
 than one hundred families, collected from all quarters; many 
 from Canada and the middle counties of this state, and conside- 
 rable improvements are making. The island is situated in the 
 Niagara river, and commences about three miles below Black 
 Rock, and extends to within a mile and a half of the falls. It is 
 twelve miles long, and from two to seven miles broad. The 
 whole of it, before the recent inroads, was clothed with heavy 
 timber of an excellent quality. The soil is said to be strong and 
 rich, well adapted to cultivation. The title to it has not yet been 
 determined by the commissioners, but it is generally admitted to 
 be within the territory of the United States. Our readers will 
 probably recollect, that the Indian title to this and the other 
 islands in the Niagara was ceded to the state of New- York, by 
 treaty made at Buffalo, on the 12th of September, 1815, between 
 Gov. Tompkins and others, commissioners on the part of the 
 state, and the chiefs, &c. of the Seneca nation. The state paid 
 one thousand dollars down, and secured an annuity of five hun- 
 dred dollars. This island will probably, at no distant period, be- 
 come very populous, and highly cultivated." 
 
 / 
 
[let. XIII* 
 
 its bed being for some distance intended as tlie route of the 
 Grand Cam*! ; (he land ^contiguous to the lower j,art of its 
 course from Batavia, is, as I have already observed, subject 
 in many places, to submersion by water. It is navigable 
 for boats upwards of twenty miles from its mouth. Be- 
 tween the mouth of the Tonnewanta and old Fort Schlosser, 
 the marshes in some places border the strait ; and what is 
 remarkable, the Chippewa river entering the Canada side a 
 short distance above the falls, exhibits in some measure, 
 similar phenomena with the Tonnewanta. Seen from the 
 strait below (lie lower extremity of Grand isle, the whole 
 adjacent country appears almost level, no elevation being 
 visible that materially breaks the monotony of the land- 
 scape. The strait here turns nearly abruptly to the west, 
 and first exposes to view the cloud that constantly rises from 
 the cataract. Nothing is seen, however, that anticipates in 
 any manner the sublime and awful scene below ; even the 
 rapid current that sweeps past Black Eoek, is now tranquil- 
 lized : the strait is here nearly as still as a lake on the U. S. 
 shore, and Hows gently- on that of Canada. Navy island is 
 a small extent of land lying in the Canada channel, at the 
 lower extremity of Grand island, below which commences 
 the rapids that precccio the cataract of Niagara. I passed 
 between Navy and Grand islands, and landed near old Fort 
 Sehlosser, and walked down the shore to "Whitney's, opposite 
 the falls; it was near sun-set, silence began to reign over 
 the face of nature. Slowly and at intervals I heard the 
 deep, long, and awful roar of the cataract ; my mind which 
 for years had dwelt wi«h anticipation upon this greatest of 
 the world's traits, approached the scene with fearful solici- 
 tude. 1 beheld the permanent objects, the trees, the rocks; 
 and I beheld also the passing clouds, that momentarily flitted 
 over the most interesting picture that nature ever painted 
 rnd exposed to !he admiration of intelligent beings, with 
 no.c than my common forbearance, I concluded to behold 
 
XIII.] WtJkmMA TALIS, ±d 
 
 amid the beams of a rising sun the greatest object ever pre- 
 sented to human view. But faM'Si thes stairs of the ni.rht 
 gleamed through the rifisty atmosphere of (his apparently 
 fairy land, I walked forth ro the margin of the cataract, and 
 in fancy conceived the beauties, the horrors, and she won- 
 ders the coming mw\i wftttld produce. Thai morn opened, 
 f July $Gtb) it was cl^ir and Beteliis ; I hasied to ihe verge of 
 the cataract ; i expected much, ainl was not disappointed* 
 The point of Imii above A. is a thick wood standing upon a 
 sloping hank. The noise of the cataract is heart!, but its 
 features unseen, &Bti! the observer advances to the verge of 
 the fall ; it is r.-en sefcti so obliquely as to destroy its best 
 effect. Defective however, as was this perspective of Nia- 
 gara, It presented beauties infinitely transcending any 1 had 
 ever seen before, 1 stood upon the very slope over which 
 the torrent rushed, and for many minutes forgot everj other 
 object except the (indescribable scene before me ; but when 
 the fervor of imagination had in some measure subsided, I 
 beheld under my feet, carved on the smooth rock G. J). C. ; 
 W. P. and J. B. ami many other initials of friends that land 
 visited this incomparable spot, and left these memoria, that 
 friends only could understand. On beholding these recol- 
 lections of home, you will forgive me when 1 acknowledge 
 having dropt upon their traces tears, that were rapidly swal- 
 lowed in the vortex of Niagara. The beams of morning came, 
 and glanced upon the curling volumes that rose from the 
 abyss beneath; my eye searched the bottom of this awful 
 gulf, and found in its bosom darkness, gloom, and indescri- 
 bable tumult. My reflections dwelt upon this never ending 
 conih'ct, this eternal march of (he elements, and my very 
 soul shrunk back upon itself The shelving rock on which 
 I stood trembling under my feet, and the irresistible flood 
 before me seemed to present the pictured image of evanes- 
 cence. The rock was yielding piecemeal to ruin, fragment 
 after fragment was borne into the terrible chasm beneath j 
 
29 1 A GAB .1 ¥ALLS» 
 
 [jLET. XXII. 
 
 and (he very stream that hurried these broken morsels to 
 destruction, was itself a moimmc nt of changing power* 
 
 I retraced my steps to Col. Whitney's, and after breakfast 
 returned, and descending the almost perpendicular bank of 
 rocks, found myself under the tremendous FALL OF 
 WATER, that even in description has excited the admira- 
 tion of cultivated man ! I crossed the Niagara strait about 
 250 yards below the chute. The river was in some measure 
 ruffled by the conflict it had sustained above, but no danger 
 approached the passenger. Perpendicular walls of rock 
 rose on both sides, to the appalling elevation of between 
 three and four hundred feet. The trees which crowned the 
 upper verge of this abyss appeared like shrubs. I was 
 drenched to the skin by the spray of the cataract ; but the 
 sublime scene towering over my head, was too impressive to 
 permit much reflection upon a momentary inconvenience. 
 The river below the fall flows with considerable rapidity* 
 but with less velocity or turbulence than I had been induced 
 to expect. The opposing banks are perfectly similar, both 
 being perpendicular about half the descent ; below which 
 enormous walls extend slopes, composed of the broken frag- 
 ments i hat have been torn from their original position by 
 the torrents from above. Most maps of Niagara are very 
 defective, the river being represented too straight. The 
 best delineation of this phenomenon which I have seen is 
 contained in the map of Niagara river, published with Gen. 
 Wilkinson's Meivoits. In that draft, the river abo.e the 
 falls is represented, as it is in fact, flowing almost westward. 
 Below the chute the stream flows abruptly to the north-east, 
 which course it pursues more than a mile, from whence it 
 again resumes a northern direction, which, with some par- 
 tial bends, it continues to the place of its final exit in lake 
 Ontario. 
 
 Between the lower extremity of Grand isle and the mouth 
 of Chippewa river, the Niagara is upwards of a mile wide, 
 but contracts a little as the rapids eewmence. The banks 
 
XET. XIII.] 
 
 NIAGARA *ALLS, 
 
 as high as Chippewa river, are not very much elevated above 
 the surface of (he strait, hut apparently rise in descending 
 to the pitch or chute. This change of relative height is on- 
 ly a deception in vision, occasioned by the wear of the cata- 
 ract. After crossing as I have already mentioned, I traversed 
 the Canada shore to the hank above the grand or Canada 
 chute. On the diagram enclosed, I have marked the letter 
 C. upon the spot, from where the best view can be taken of 
 the falls, rapids and islands. Many persons have insisted 
 that the best view of the falls is to be had from Goat island. 
 At this time I cannot form a comparative judgment, us the 
 bridge built by judge Porter, from the New-York shore to 
 Goat island, was broken by the ice of last winter. I am 
 doubtful of the fact, of the falls being seen to very much 
 advantage from this island, as the perspective must be very 
 oblique. The rapids are, however, but little less worthy of 
 a visit than the tails themselves, and can no doubt be seen 
 with much greater effect from Goat island than from either 
 shore of the strait. The rapids indeed on the Canada chan- 
 nel is a scene of sublimity and grandeur, Tumbling over 
 ledges, many of which are 8 or 10 feet perpendicular de- 
 scent ; these rapids are in fact a chain of cataracts, over 
 which the immense volume rolls its terrific mass towards the 
 still more awful scene below. The New-Ycrk channel has 
 also its appropriate beauties and attractions to the traveller ; 
 many small islands covered with cedar stand between the 
 main shore and Goat island, round which the foaming surge 
 dashes with endless rage. One of these inlets han^s upon 
 the brow of the falls, and produces a small middle sheet of 
 ten or fifteen yards wide, standing in mimic majesty between 
 the two gigantic torrents on each side. 
 
 No adequate idea can be formed from description of this 
 wonder of interior North America. Its pitch in feet, its^ 
 width, velocity, and consequent mass, can be estimated with 
 considerable accuracy ; but the effect upon the mind can only 
 be produced from actual view. If the massy wails of rock, 
 
NIAGARA EAXXS; 
 
 [LKT. 
 
 and the rapids above are excepted, there is nothing near Ni- 
 agara that is striking in the scenery. It is left alone i^sim- 
 ple and sublime dignity to strike the soul with a sensation, 
 that loss of life or sense alone ean obliterate, hut the nature 
 of which no language can convey. If towering mountains 
 and craggy rocks surrounded Niagara, I eannot hut believe 
 that much of its fine effect would be lost,' as it exists it is 
 "an image whose whole contour is at once seen, and the re- 
 collection unbroken by extraneous objects even sound is 
 
 * A few days after my return to the city of New- York, I had 
 the pleasure to read the following lines, from the 4th canto of 
 Childe- Harold, by Lord Byron. It is a description of the cata- 
 ract of Velum. Words of fire ! used to paint to the soul an ob- 
 ject, no doubt worthy the mighty genius of the greatest modern 
 poet; but an object compared to which, Niagara is as a tower- 
 ing oak beside a rose shrub. If Lord Byron had given intellec- 
 tual existence to this grand effort of a master mind, under the 
 very spray, in view of the emerald verge, and with his soul arous- 
 ed to heaven by the sound of the waters of Niagara, his image 
 would not more vividly pourtray this scene, whose traits only a 
 poet can describe. 
 
 a The roar of waters ! — from the headlong height 
 Velino cleaves the wave-worn precipice ; 
 The fail of waters! rapid as the light, 
 The (lashing mass foams shaking the abyss ; 
 The hell of waters! where they howl and hiss, 
 And boil in endless torture ; while the sweat 
 Of their great agony, wrung out from this 
 Their Phlegethon, curls round the rocks of jet 
 That gird the gulf around, in pitiless horror set, 
 
 And mounts in spray the skies, and thence again 
 Keturns in an unceasing shower, which round 
 With its unemntied cloud of gentle rain, 
 Is an eternal April to the ground, 
 Making it all one emerald : — how profound 
 The gulf and how the giant element 
 From rock to rock leaps with delirious bound 
 Crushing the cliffs, which, downward worn and rent 
 With his fierce footsteps, yield in chasms a fearful vent 
 
 To the broad column which rolls on, and shows 
 More like the fountain of an infant sea 
 Torn from the womb of mountains by the throes 
 Of a new World, than only tfatrs to be 
 
XET. XIII.) 
 
 STAG AH A FALLS* 
 
 subservient to the impression made upon the heart, none is 
 heard except (he eternal roar of the cataract. I would 
 have been rejoiced to hare seen this place in a tempest. 
 The whole time I was there, the weather, though warm, 
 was otherwise serene and pleasant. Amid the howling of 
 the black north-west wind Niagara musthave something of 
 more than common inierest. I am inclined nevertheless to 
 believe, that winter alone can give all its most appropriate 
 attendant imagery to the falls. But at all times, at all sea- 
 sons, and I might say by all minds, will this matchless picture 
 be viewed with wonder and delight, and remembered with 
 feelings of pleasure. 
 
 Many silly remarks are however made respecting the 
 falls : their plunging into an abyss of which no one knows 
 the depth is one. The waters mostly fall upon an inclined 
 plane, formed by the broken fragments of rocks which have 
 been and are daily falling from the precipice over which the 
 waters are precipitated. Canoes and other vessels being 
 earned to the verge of the fall with persons in them, gliding 
 
 Parent of rivers which (low gushingly, 
 Willi many windings, through tiie vale : — Look back ! 
 Lo ! where it comes like an eternity, 
 As if to sweep down all things in its track, 
 Charming the eye with dread, — a matchless cataract, 
 
 Horribly beautiful ! but on the verge, 
 From side to side, beneath the glittering morn, 
 An Iris sits, amidst the infernal surge 
 Like HOPE upon a death-bed, and, unworn 
 Its steady dyes, while all around is torn 
 By the distracted waters, bears serene 
 Its brilliant hues with all their beams unshorn 
 Resembling, ? niid the torture of the scene, 
 Love watching madness with unalterable mein. ? ' 
 
 Only with this description, can be compared that of the Gha* 
 rybdis by Homer : it cannot be deemed presumption to say it hag 
 no other equal in human literature. Let any person of warm 
 fancy, read these lines in view of Niagara, in a fine summer 
 morning, and while the Tris beams upon his eye, he will exclaim, 
 " this indeed is the language of enraptured poetry 
 
106 
 
 NIAGARA FALLS. 
 
 [let. xiii; 
 
 rapidly but smoothly fo destruction, is another romance : 
 any vessel whatever, would be dashed to splinters by the ra- 
 pids before coming within half a mile of the chute. 
 
 Unless it may be from Goat island, which I did not see, 
 the best situation to see the falls, is from the Table Roek,^ 
 or to my mind more safe and more pleasant from the hill 
 above. Mr. Whitney is now constructing a stairway from 
 the New-York side, to lead down to the margin of the stream. 
 This work, when completed, will afford a more safe and 
 commodious passage than the wretched ladder down which 
 the curious traveller has been hitherto conveyed. f 
 
 * Before my return from Detroit to Buffalo, a fragment of 
 rock on the Canada side, supposed to be the Table Rock, broke 
 and fell. It was not however the Table Rock that fell, as the an- 
 nexed extract will explain. 
 
 "FALLS OF NIAGARA. 
 
 (c Mr. Salisbury — I have seen it observed in your paper, that 
 the celebrated Table Rock, had precipitated itself into the Niaga- 
 ra river. This is not correct. The part that fell did not extend 
 to within 50 yards of the Table Rock; it was about 20 rods in 
 length, and from 1 to 4 in breadth. This part, the day previous 
 to its falling, was passed over by a large party of visitors. Per- 
 haps it would be proper to state, that since that event, (which de- 
 stroyed the pathway) Mr. Forsyth has constructed a new and safe 
 pathway to the Table Rock." — Buffalo pap. S. 
 
 t " Goat Island. — This beautiful Island, which divides the 
 Falls of Niagara, seems to have been rent from the American 
 side by some violent convulsion of nature ; the strata of rocks, 
 the soil, and the growth of the timber corresponding with those 
 upon the main land. 
 
 " The difficulties of approach to this island have, in all pro- 
 bability increased with time, and as the fall has receded ; for we 
 are informed, that it was once a place of frequent resort for the 
 French garrisons in Niagara and Schlosser, and of the British 
 who succeeded them. There are numerous inscriptions upon the 
 trunks of the trees, some of which are obliterated ; the earliest 
 now legible is of the year 1769. The only mode of access in 
 those days, was to drop down the current from Schlosser upon 
 the point of the island, and great care and circumspection were 
 necessary by avoiding the draft of the current, to escape being 
 carried over the tremendous precipice. But in later times, ai- 
 
LET. Xlll.j 
 
 NIAGARA TAILS. 
 
 167 
 
 Visitors increase annually. Mr. Forsyth, keeper t)f the 
 public inn on the Canada shore, has kept a register of the 
 names of persons who have lodged at his house on their 
 visit to Niagara, The number of names are considerable, 
 and each succeeding year the excess becomes greater. In 
 no other situation in the United States can buildings and oili- 
 er accommodations for the use of travellers, be established 
 with more certainty of remuneration. The cause that leads 
 the stranger to this spot is not the acquisition of wealth, nor 
 is it the debates of a legislative assembly that draws him 
 thither ; but the attractions that allure him are a combination 
 of many of the most astonishing features of nature, the rich 
 painted landscape, whose outline was traced by the HAND 
 by whom the world was framed, and whose strong con- 
 
 though the curiosity of some surmounted the dread of danger, 
 few were hardy enough to adventure. 
 
 "Abridge was built last fall, by the hon. judge Porter, and 
 sanguine hopes were entertained that it would have withstood the 
 torrent; but an unusual collection of ice in the spring occasioned 
 it to be carried away. The perseverance of that enterprizing 
 gentleman, however, was not to be discouraged, and a new bridge 
 has been constructed in a more favorable position, which bids 
 fair to brave the dangers which proved fatal to the first. 
 
 " The highest praise is due to Messrs. Pierce & Whitney, the 
 contractors, arid to Mr. Osborn. the builder, for the judicious lo- 
 cation of the building, and its remarkable construction. By 
 means of this structure, which few would have designed or exe- 
 cuted, Goat island has become the most interesting spot that fan- 
 cy can depict ; as it affords the best and most varied views of 
 that stupendous cataract which " enchants the world." 
 
 " The view from Table Rock, on the British side, has hitherto 
 been much admired; but that spectacle is infinitely surpassed by 
 the grandeur of the views from several points of the island, which 
 exhibit the majestic fall, and the surrounding scenery in unrival- 
 led splendor. From the same point the eye embraces the rapids 
 above, dashing with impetuous fury as if madly hastening to pre- 
 cipitate themselves into the yawning gulf: the tremendous volume 
 of water sends its spray to the heavens, and the winding of the 
 foaming torrent below the precipice ; no imagination can con- 
 ceive, no language can describe thewiidness and sublimity of the 
 scene."— Niagara Patriot. 
 
^CEENSTOff. 
 
 [LET. XIII 
 
 tour has and will endure through the changes of countless 
 centuries. 
 
 July 30th, 1 left Mr. Forsyth's and traced the shores of 
 the strait to Queenston, a distance seven miles along a road, 
 over a rolling but not hilly country. From the heights 
 above Queenston, a prospect- opens only second to that of tho 
 falls, though of a character totally different. The wide 
 sweep of the alluvial plain of lake Ontario lies beneath, 
 chequered with meadows and farms ; the deep and rapid 
 strait, issuing in its dark profound from the shelving rocks 
 above, the two towns of Queenston and Lewiston ; and far 
 on the back ground the ocean-like expanse of lake On- 
 tario, closes the perspective. 
 
 It is when standing upon the brow of these heights, that 
 the fact becomes demonstrative that here once dashed Nia- 
 gara, mingling his foaming surge with the wave of Ontario. 
 •The rocky bed has yielded to the ever rolling waters, and 
 the cataract has retired to the deep and distant dell where it 
 now repeats the thunders of ages, and continues its slow 
 but certain march to Erie. Time was when Niagara did 
 not exist, and lime will come when it will cease to be ! But 
 to these mighty revolutions, the change of empire is as the 
 bursting bubble on the rippling pool, to the overwhelming 
 volume that rolls down the steep of Niagara itself. Since 
 this cataract fell where Queenston now stands, have risea 
 and fallen Assyria, and Persia ; Macedonia, and [tome ; the 
 flood of northern barbarians issued forth from their native 
 woods, and in the storm of savage fury profaned the tombs 
 of the Fabii, and the Scipio's, and in the march of time the 
 polished sons of those mail clad warriors, now seek with re- 
 ligious veneration the fragments of the statues that their 
 fathers broke; and whilst this moral stream was flowing 
 through the wide expanse of ages, has the Niagara continu- 
 ed its unceasing course. Housed from the sleep of a thous- 
 and years, the energies of the human mind sought another 
 world, and found America $ and amid this new creation 
 
LET. XIII.] 
 
 I4TE WAft. 
 
 169 
 
 found Niagara. Daring (he change of nations, religion and 
 language, this vast, this fearful cataract unceasingly pursued 
 and pursues its slow and toilsome way. 
 
 But in soberness, no man ever did or ever can trace 
 this ground, without the intoxication of enthusiasm. I re- 
 I raced my way back to Buffalo, passing along the Canada 
 shore as far as the ferry below Fort Erie. 
 
 There is, however, no scene which the traveller visits, that 
 sq little answers his expectations as that of a field of battle. 
 In the splendid accounts of fine positions chosen, defended, 
 or lost, the movements of armies, the shock of battalions* 
 and the victory acquired, or defeat, sustained by celebrated 
 generals, we are apt to consider the ground upon which these 
 events transpired, as offering something of deep interest on 
 review ; but when seen this illusion vanishes, and the eye 
 finds nothing beyond the common objects in nature to render 
 conspicuous the scene of the greatest battles. 
 
 The last war between the United States and Great Bri- 
 tain, has been rendered forever remarkable by some of (hose 
 events which continue land-marks in history. The victories 
 of our infant navy gained against the leviathan of the deep? 
 the burning of Washington, and the destructive defeat of a 
 veteran army of 10,900 men at New Orleans by less than 
 half their number of militia, are facts imperishable as the 
 literature of the world. But in no part of the vast theatre 
 of this memorable war, were the operations of the respec- 
 tive armies so sanguinary as on the Niagara river. Perhaps 
 *o the number of men engaged, no battles were ever more 
 obstinately contended, or victory more dearly bought, than 
 were those of Queenston, October 8(h, 181*, in which gen. 
 Brock was killed ; that of Chippewa, July 5th, 181*. and 
 that of Bridgwater, July 2.5th, 181k The latter was indeed 
 one of those desperate conflicts^ where the oOlccrjg and sol- 
 diers of both armies, seemed to have lost the feeling of eve- 
 ry other sentiment except that of victory. Gens. Brown 
 and Scott were wounded, and Gen. Real, of the British army* 
 
 N 
 
170 
 
 JLATE WAR, 
 
 [LET. XIII. 
 
 taken prisoner. The following fads from Gen. Brown's 
 re 1 urn of this engagement, lire amongst (lie moti singular 
 in human history : on the American side the 
 
 « Return of killed, woundtd and missing, in (lie above 
 a action — killed, 171 — wounded, 570— -missing, 117 — total, 
 H S58." 
 
 u The British official account of the ahove action, makes 
 " their loss as follows, viz : — killed, Si — wounded, 559— 
 «? missing, 1£3 — prisoners, 42 — total, 878." 
 
 Fay's Idlers, page 221. 
 
 If to these bloody battles are superadded the not less ru- 
 inous and destructive operations at fort Kiagara, fort Erie, 
 and at Buffalo, every spot of this strait have now become 
 classic ground, and the traveller for ages will seek she he- 
 ro's grave. As 1 passed these fit Ids, I could not but con- 
 trast the storm that once raged upon their surface With the 
 deep and solemn calm that reigned around me. Fields once 
 covered with the dead and dying soldier, now smiled in gold- 
 en harvest. 
 
 Upon the rising ground near Forsyth's, I stopped to take 
 a parting view of Niagara, gazed a few moments upon its 
 ever pleasing features, hurried on, passed the fields of 
 Chippewa, and about noon of the 31st August, found myself 
 again in Buffalo. 
 
 The following are the stages and distances, on the Cana- 
 da sAie, from fort George to Buffalo. 
 
 Mites. 
 
 Fort George to Queenston, - - 7 
 
 Stamford at the Falls, - - - 7—14 
 
 Chippewa, - 3 — 17 
 
 Palmer's, „■ - - - . 9—26 
 
 Ferry dele* fort Erie, - - - 6 — 32 
 
 Black Rock, - - - - 1—33 
 
 Buffalo, - 2 — 35 
 
 Detained by contrary winds in Buffalo to the evening of 
 the 2d of August, I had a good opportunity of examining the 
 
JLKT. XIII.] 
 
 BUFFALO. 
 
 171 
 
 place. It does not appear to me (hat the value of that i8n- 
 ation has been duly appreciated by our government. Many 
 reasons concur to enforce the necessity of rendering the 
 harbor of Buffalo capable of containing vessels of any size. 
 Such an undertaking is by no means visionary. At less than 
 a mile from the mouth of the creek, there is sufficient water 
 fo admit a first rate ship of the line. If a strong mole was 
 constructed running out from above the light-house into the 
 lake, a safe shelter for vessels would be formed. In a na- 
 val point of view, such a work would be invaluable, and 
 contribute not a little to secure to the United States the safe- 
 ty and superiority of their flag on lake Erie, and to prevent 
 the repetition of the desolating inroads of an enemy m time 
 of war.* 
 
 Adieu, 
 
 % Some facts relative to the operations of Commodore Perry 
 and life fleet in last war, will be found mentioned in the sequel of 
 this work, which will more strongly point out the necessity of 
 some more secure naval station, than any that now exists on the 
 north-east extremity of lake Erie. The following account of 
 the effects of the winds on that lake has been published at the 
 moment of preparing this sheet for the press ; I have grven it 
 entire, as a specimen of the tremendous gales that sweep over 
 those inland seas ; gales that are appalling indeed, where no ha- 
 ven presents its shelter to the wretched mariner. 
 
 ci Gale on lake Erie. — fn addition to the loss of the Hercules? 
 heretofore stated, we gather from the Cleveland Register, of Nov* 
 2.4, which came to hand this morning, the following particulars of 
 fatal disasters : 
 
 • u The schooner Independence, of Sandusky, John Brooks mas*- 
 ter and owner, John Chambers seaman, cleared from the mouth 
 of Black river, on Saturday the 1 4th inst. for Detroit, loaded with 
 corn, for John S. Reid, esq. who sent his son Cornelius Reid to 
 assist capt. Brooks, and dispose of the corn. The vessel was cap^ 
 sized in a gale — the cargo lost, and every soul on board drowned — 
 tiie wreck drifted on shore near the mouth of Black river. A 
 wreck of a vessel, bottom upwards, seen off the mouth of Grand 
 river. Schooner Pauline, was driven on shore near the mouth of 
 Grand river and bilged — her crew saved, but her cargo, consisting 
 of salt, lost. Schooner Boxer, lying in the mouth of Grand river, 
 dismasted, bilged, and a complete wreck— crew saved. Sehooner 
 
172 DETROIT* [LET. XI*. 
 
 LETTER XIV. 
 
 Belroil, Jivgnsi 13, 
 
 Dear Sir, 
 
 On the evening of the 2d inst. I left Buffalo for this city, 
 in the schooner Zephyr, eapt. Wilcox, and had a tedious pas- 
 sage of eleven days, but at length found myself agreeably 
 rid of the vessel, and on shore to*day. Since it is over, I do 
 not regret having encountered contrary winds in my passage, 
 as the circumstance enabled me to visit most of the towns 
 along the south border of lake Erie. 
 
 A gale commenced to blow with great violence from the 
 2$; W. soon after we left Buffalo creek, and continued to rage 
 all night. The darkness of the night, and the narrowness 
 of the mouth of the harbor we left, prevented our return ; 
 ihe course of the wind kept us from sheltering under point 
 Abino, on the Canada shore, and of course left us to the 
 mercy of the storm and waves. I have the misfortune to 
 be very subject to sea sickness, and never did I pass so dread- 
 ful a night. The short chopping waves of lake Erie give 
 a vessel, during the prevalence of a gale, an unspeakable 
 disagreeable motion ; the nature of its shores renders it, 
 amongst the most dangerous parts of the earth to navigate 
 
 Wasp dismasted, and driven on shore at the mouth of Cunning- 
 bain's creek, bilged — her crew saved, but cargo lost. Schooner 
 general Brown was driven on shore near the mouth -of Black 
 liver, on Wednesday the i 8th inst. — her crew all safe, but the 
 vessel considerably damaged. Schooner general Jackson left 
 Green bay for Mackinaw, sometime since, and has not since been 
 heard of — fears are entertained for her safety. British brig Lord 
 Wellington, of Canada, was driven on shore at point Abino* 
 and went to pieces— crew saved, bat cargo lost."' 
 
iET. XIV.] 
 
 DUNKIRK. 
 
 A fine steam boat is now building a|- Black liock, and will 
 be an invaluable acquisition when put in motion*^ 
 
 We made Dunkirk harbor in the evening of the &fh, w here 
 we remained wind bound until noon of the 7th. It is a cu- 
 rious Pact, that in a distance of 45 miles from Buffiio to 
 Dunkirk, there is no place where the smallest vessel can 
 ihni shelter, except the mouth of Cataraugus creek, which 
 affords but little water, consequently useless for vessel* 
 drawing more than four or five feet. Dunkirk is in Chatuu- 
 • que county, township of Pomfret. The alluvial bank of 
 lake Erie is at this place about four miles wide, from the in- 
 ner border of which, rise the hills which divide the waters 
 flowing into the Ohio valley, from those whhh fall into lake 
 Erie. This ridge becomes visible from the lake immediately 
 after leaving Buffalo, though from (hat place they are dis- 
 tant between twenty and thirty miles in a direct course. 
 Following nearly an east and west direction through Genesee, 
 Cataraugus, and Chaiauque counties, the dividing ridge »p« 
 proaehes lake Erie obliquely, and at Portland eighteen miles 
 
 * This boat is called Walk in the Water, an aukward term giv- 
 en in compliment to an Indian chief lately dead ; she left Buffalo 
 on her first trip about the 1 7th or 1 8th inst. The following ex- 
 tract from the Buffalo Gazette, shews the result. The circum- 
 stance 1 have mentioned of the prevalence of S. Wl winds, ren- 
 ders steam navigation invaluable on the St. Lawrence, though 
 Walk in the Water is too large, to answer all the purposes to 
 which, from the shallowness of most of the harbors in lake Eric, 
 she might be applied, if her draught was less. 
 
 u The steam-boat Walk in the Water has returned to Buffalo 
 from her first trip, and is found on trial, to equal the best expec- 
 tations of her builders and proprietors. She reached Detroit, a 
 distance of more than . 309 miles, in 48 hours, and afterwards 
 proceeded to lake St, Clair, and brought down a number of troops. 
 May she prove as profitable to the enterprising proprietors, as 
 she is likely to prove beneficial to the public at targe. 
 
 <; Thus there is now established, on the St. Lawrence and its 
 waters, steam-boat accommodations for about 800 miles ; and the 
 distance of these facilities to travel, will probably be doubled in 
 a very few years, by the introduction of these boais upon lakes 
 Huron, Michigan; Superior, &c." 
 
 N2 
 
174 
 
 ULJN&IUK. 
 
 [let. xiy. 
 
 south-west from Dunkirk, teaehei >v ithia less than three 
 miles of the margin of the lake. The hills seen from the 
 lake appear to rise much more abrupt than they do in fact. 
 Their slope towards the lake, presents an immense forest 
 chequered with comparatively few farms. 
 
 Dunkirk is a new village on the shore of lake Erie. A 
 semicircular hay lies in front of the village, formed by two 
 capes, distant from each other about a mile and a half, with 
 a bar extending from cape to cape, over which there is seven 
 feet water. Vessels capable of passing the bar, find good 
 shelter from east south-east, south, or south-west winds, and 
 the bar breaking the waves, the harbor affords a refuge also 
 from she winds blowing from the lake. The bottom of the 
 bay affords good anchorage within two hundred yards of the 
 shore. Dunkirk is invaluable as offering the only port be- 
 tween Buffalo and Erie. A number of gentlemen in Albany 
 are the principal proprietors of this village and its vicinity ; 
 they have expended considerable sums in the erection of a 
 wharf, a road to Fredonia, and other improvements. The 
 site is a dead level, which extends back towards the hills 
 two or three miles, before any considerable eminences dis- 
 turb the monotony of its surface. The soil is composed of 
 sand and a rich loam, forming an alluvion of great fertility. 
 Timber, hemlock, various species of oak, elm, linden, pop- 
 lar, (iirodendion tulipifera) sugar maple, and beech. The 
 trees of all kinds are remarkable for their extraordinary 
 size. 
 
 The day aftcumy arrival at Dunkirk I walked out to Fre- 
 donia, formerly Canadaway, four miles. Canadaway creek 
 ; risc3 in the dividing ridge, interlocking With the sources of 
 the Conncwango branch of the Allegany river, and flowing 
 north-west towards lake Eric, tumbling from precipice to 
 precipice until it reaches the alluvial border of lake Erie, 
 which it joins two miles above Dunkirk buy. Fredonia is 
 built upon each bank of this creek, is a new and flourishing 
 village, The road from Buffalo to Erie passes through and 
 
JiET. XIV.] DUNKIUK. 175 
 
 divides at Fredonia, info what is called the lower or like 
 road, qnd (lie upper or Chataitque road. 'Phem roads do 
 not again unite until within the precincts of the Iowa of 
 Erie. The settlements follow generally these roads, par- 
 ticularly the form©!' or lake route. 
 
 I should h ive been much rejoiced to h ive been able to de- 
 termine the elevation of the dividing ridge above the surface 
 of Jake Erie, but could not have that satisfaction, from want 
 of instruments and time. Independent of their apparent 
 height* two circumstances combine to prove that (hey cannot 
 fall much short of 12J0 feet. First, the distance to which 
 they are visible is at least forty miles. Any object capable 
 of being seen upon the curve of the earth's surface forty 
 miles, must be within a trifle of 1100 feet high. The second 
 datum to demonstrate the considerable elevation of these 
 hills, is, thai from them (low water, w hich enters the gulf of 
 Mexico upwards of twelve degrees of latitude distant from its 
 source. The surface of lake Erie h known to be 5(>k5 feet 
 above the ocean tides, and allowing (lie dividing ridge an el- 
 evation of 1100 feet, would produce 166-kd feet as the entire 
 height of this ridge above the Atlantic ocean. Sloping very 
 gradually towards the south, a rapid depression of, as we 
 have seen, 1100 feet takes place on the side of lake Erie. 
 The extreme head waters of Chatanque lake, rises in the 
 township of Portland, within less than three miles of lake 
 Erie, and is the point of nearest approach of the Mississippi 
 waters, to the margin of any of the Canadian lakes. 
 
 Canals have been projected to unite the Ohio and St. Law- 
 rence waters, many points have been mentioned, and amongst 
 others by Chatauquc lake. You will perceive the obstacles 
 that nature lias opposed to the completion of such a project, 
 by the enormous difference of level, and the very sudden de- 
 pression. It is a subject to me of some surprize, that the 
 Erie chain of hills is, even by many persons of good infor- 
 mation, considered as rising but very little above the surface 
 •f lake Erie ; bnt n© sooner is the real elevation of Erie 
 
DVSILIRK. [LET, XIV. 
 
 known, limn the conviction must be irresistible, that a very se- 
 i ions rise must be necessary from that hike, to admit a •current 
 of Hteh prodigious length as that of the Allegany, Ohio, and 
 Mississippi rivers. If indeed lake Erie was nearly as much 
 elevated as the source of Allegany river, then would the fall 
 of W&ter in the Niagara*s(i ait and St. Lawrence river, be as 
 great in less than SCO miles, as that of the Mississippi and 
 jfs tributaries in six times that distance ; the certain conse- 
 quence would be that either the fall of Niagara would be 
 SCO or 9G0 feet, or that the St. Lawrence, from its great 
 rapidity, would be unnavigahle. 
 
 With good roads, and a thriving interior, Dunkirk must 
 advance in a ratio with the neighboring country, being the 
 only port, no rival can be raised to cheek its progress nearer 
 than forty-live miles. Should the current of commerce turn 
 towards the city of New-York, then would Dunkirk become 
 the shipping port to a semicircle of at least thirty miles radi- 
 us. At present the village consists of about 20 houses 
 newly built. The proprietors are employed in forming a 
 rtotd; to join both above and below the village with that of 
 the lake margin. 
 
 A tig. 6th, in the evening I left Dunkirk, and, as in leaving 
 Buffalo, encountered another gale, but as it came from the 
 north-cast, it carried us rapidly forward. The gale set in 
 about three hours before day, and bore our vessel about SO 
 miles from llmJurk by morning 5 as the sun arose the wind 
 abated, and at 8 o'clock P. M. we passed the town of Erie, 
 into the harbor of w hich we did not enter. Much of the 
 shore between Dunkirk and Erie, is composed of shelves of 
 reeks,, twenty or SO feet high, and extremely dangerous to 
 vessels, as no place of refuge exists even for boats. The di- 
 viding ridge is visible from the lake, following a similar di- 
 rection with its shores. Above the tow n of Erie the alluvial 
 border becomes k wider,|and the slope of the dividing iidgii 
 less abrupt, and gradually retiring into the state of Ohio, 
 about tirctity miles above Erie it ceases to be in view from 
 
JET. XIV.] GRAND illVKK. 177 
 
 the lake. Settlements become more rare ; the border of 
 the lake presents one vast forest. Thirty miles from the 
 town of Erie and near the mouth of Conneought creek, is 
 the division line bet ween the states of Pennsylvania and Ohio, 
 We passed this place, and also the mouth of Ashtabula river 
 in the night, and at noon of the 8th, we also passed the 
 mouth of Grand river. At 1 o'clock P. M. we were be- 
 calmed which continued two or three hours, and was follow- 
 ed by a strong head wind, which forced us back into the 
 mouth of Grand river. The dividing ridge is visible from 
 the lake opposite this place. 
 
 Grand river is a stream of some consequence rising in 
 Portage county, flows over the north-west angle of Trum- 
 bull t^unty, assumes a north course, enters Ashtabula county, 
 through which it winds five and twenty miles, turns suddenly 
 westward, enters Geauga county, through which it flows 
 upwards of twenty miles, falls into lake Erie hi the latter 
 county, after an entire course of more than seventy miles, 
 it is about seventy yards ^ide at the mouth, with seven feet 
 water on the bar near the entrance into the lake. The east 
 bank rises to the height of 30 or 40 feet, affording a very 
 handsome site for a village. The harbor is excellent for 
 such vessels whose whole draft of water will admit entrance. 
 A village called Fairport, has been laid out on the point 
 below or east cf the mouth of the river. Some houses are 
 -built, two taverns and three stores have been established, 
 with a warehouse at the bank of the rher. Preparations 
 are making to form wharves, extending beyond the bar in 
 such manner as to afford a harbor to vessels of any draff. 
 If such a work is completed Fairport will he amongst the 
 most flourishing villages on the south shore of lake Erie. 
 
 The soil is here on the high banks composed of sand, peb- 
 ble, and vegetable earth, and no doubt very productive, though 
 of that 1 had no other means of forming a judgment than 
 by the natural growth, as no cleared lands are yet to be seen 
 near the vijlage. 
 
 / 
 
i7S «fc«VEXAK0« £bCT. XIV. 
 
 Three miles from Fairport, upon liie left bank of Graud 
 river, stands the very flourishing village of Painesville, the 
 richest and most commercial in the county, containing a num- 
 ber of stores, taverns, ropls, and otr;ei machinery : a po§t- 
 office^ and a fine wooden bridge over Grand river. The soil 
 of litis neighborhood is a rich vegetable mould, resting upon 
 rounded pebble or clay. The Lw! in fact of all the Con- 
 necticut reserve is fertile, with bat partial exceptions. r i lie 
 timber, hickory, sugar maple, black walnut, elm, oak, and 
 oilier trees indicative of deep, strong soil. Though hut Jit- 
 tie cultivation appears along the lake shore, the interior is 
 rapidly advancing in settlement. Fairport has all the ap- 
 pearance of a commercial place ; in infancy it must be con- 
 fessed, but yet wih such marks as will justify (he anticipa- 
 tion of vigorous maturity. 
 
 Aug. 9th, Heft Fairport early in the morning, with alight 
 breeze from the N. E. and at 2 o'clock P. M. reached 
 Cleveland, at the mouth of Cuyahoga river. 
 
 Cleveland, like Fairport, occupies the eastern point be- 
 tween the lake and river, and is, after Buffalo and Erie, the 
 largest town upon the shores of lake Erie. Similar to all 
 rhers (hat How into any of the Canadian lakes, a bar cros- 
 ses ih mouth with a depth of 7 feet. Cayahoga river rises 
 in Geauga and Portage by a nun her of creeks, which unite 
 at the north-west angle of the latter county, then enters that 
 of Cuyahoga, and falls into lake Erie at Cleveland. A road 
 winding up a very high and steep bank leads from theharhor 
 to the fow'fijj which stands upon the table land. The situa- 
 tion of Cleveland is the most pleasing of any town I have 
 yet seen on lake Erie. The general slope of the ground plan 
 of the town inclines towards the lake, though elevated per- 
 haps 60 feet above its surface. Cleveland stands higher 
 than Fairport, but both are subject to the serious objection 
 of having banks abrupt and difficult to ascend from the 
 margin of the water in the harbor. That of Cleveland pro- 
 duces, from its inclination towards the lake, a very pleasant 
 
LET. XIV.] 
 
 CLEVELAND. 
 
 and extensive prospect, which adds no little to Hie airy and 
 healthy appearance of the town and its vicinity. The soil 
 of the neighborhood is extremely fertile, composed as every 
 where else on lake Erie, of sand, <clay, and rounded pebble, 
 in different degrees of mixture. For the first time in the 
 St. Lawrence valley, I saw the peach tree with a vigorous, 
 healthy look, in the gardens and orchards near Cleveland : 
 and here also appears more effects of culture, than in any 
 part of the lake shore from Buffalo. 
 
 Cleveland is the seat of justice for Cayahoga county, with 
 a court-house, bank, printing office, a number of stores and 
 taverns, and a pest-oiiiee. It is a position of considerable 
 consequence, lying in a direct line of communication between 
 PiUsliurs and Detroit, 151 miles from the former city. Du- 
 ring last war, the mouth of Cayahoga was found to be a 
 point of great convenience for the transportation of stores, 
 provisions, and building of small vessels for the use of the 
 army and navy. Why large vessels could not be as well con- 
 structed here as at Erie, I am unable to comprehend ; the 
 water upon the respective bars is equal, whilst the harbor of 
 Erie, from its openness, would be certainly less defensible 
 than that of Cleveland; and the communication between 
 Michigan Territory, and the interior of Ohio, Pennsylvania, 
 Kentucky, and Virginia, more direct by the latter than the 
 former port. 
 
 Vic left Cleveland in the evening of (he 8?h, with a good 
 north east breeze; we proceeded up the lake with so much 
 rapidity as to be obliged to lie to, in order to have day-light 
 to enter Sandusky bay. On the morning of the 9th, our 
 vessel was under way at sun-rise; Cunningham's island and 
 point Peninsula in view to the west ; the main shore of Hu- 
 ron county, in (he state of Ohis, to the seuih, and Point-au- 
 Ple, in Canada, to the north ; the hill3 towards the sources 
 of Huron river to the south-east ; but in every other direc- 
 tion, the adjacent shores and islands seemed level, and to 
 rise to no great elevation above the water. 
 
ISa SANDUSKY. [LET. XIV. 
 
 Between seven and eight A. M. I entered Sandusky bay. 
 This sheet of Wider is formed by (he expansion of Sandusky 
 river, and a Jong, narrow strip of land, whieh runs from be- 
 tween chc inoulh of that stream and Portage river. The 
 strip forms the outside of the bay towards the iakc^ and has 
 reeeived the name of point Peninsula, forms a part of Hu- 
 ron county, and has been erected into the township of Dan- 
 bury; it is about twenty miles long, and from two to three 
 miles wide. From the eastern extremity of the peninsula, 
 extends a low, narrow point about two miles long, approach- 
 ing within a mile of a similar low, long, narrow bar project- 
 ing from the main shore. The space between these bars 
 is the entrance into Sandusky bay. The point of the penin- 
 sula is eaJ!ed pint Prospect, the one opposite point Sandy. 
 A small round island lies inside of point Prospect, called Bull 
 island. The points are covered with dwarf trees, and are, 
 though on a larger scale, in every other respect similar to 
 those whieh form Sodus bay in lake Ontario. 
 
 The entrance lies close upon point Sandy, and like almost 
 all harbors in lake Erie, has seven feet water at the shallow- 
 est pari, Our ship passed Bull island to the westward and 
 proceeded to the custom house, which is now on the peninsu- 
 la, and kepi by a Frenchman of the name of Peter P. Ferry. 
 Whilst our captain was regulating his affairs with the cus- 
 tom house officer, I walked forth to. examine the adjacent 
 country. I found the surface rising from the bay by gradu- 
 al acclivity, to at least 20 feet elevation. Soil a deep black 
 loans, admixed with sand and pebble ; timber, black walnut, 
 shag-bark hickory, white oak, elm, linden, ash, and syca- 
 more, with a shrubbery of alder, sumach, and grapevine. 
 On no land of whatever quality did 1 ever before see so much 
 black walnut on a given spa^e. Tjbis tree, whose existence 
 is m unerring proof of uncommon fertility, is here the pre- 
 valent timber, and is found of enormous size and height. 
 
 Most part of the peninsula is yet unsettled though some 
 farms are commenced, and it is needless to say, after what 
 
LET, xrv.j 
 
 SANDUSKY. 
 
 181 
 
 I have already slated of the soil, that the crops are very 
 promising, particularly maize or Indian corn. The proper- 
 ty of soil to the lands of the peninsula, belongs to those who 
 enjoy the benefits of what is called the fire lands. The na- 
 ture of that (enure you know arose from a remunerative 
 grant made by the government of the United States, to some 
 sufferers by British depredation, during the war of the 
 revolution, such as the inhabitants of Fairfield, Norwalk. 
 and some other places. Like most public donations for the 
 moderate benefit of the many, the fire grant has made the 
 fortunes of a few ; the property has been, perhaps, foolishly 
 undervalued, by most of those for whose use it was origi- 
 nally separated from the public domain. 
 
 The town of Dan bury or the peninsula of Sandusky, con- 
 tains at least 40 sections, or about. 25,600 acres, sufficient 
 for more than one hundred moderate farms. r J he land is 
 generally level, some prairie,* the forest land extremely 
 well timbered ; it will no doubt become the seat of a flour 
 ishing settlement. 
 
 I crossed the bay from the peninsula to the town of San 
 dusky or Portland, as it seems the village bears both names. 
 The bay is here about four miles wide, which breadth it 
 maintains almost to its head, except at the narrows about 
 five miles above the village of Sandusky. The shores are 
 every where but little raised above the water, in some pla- 
 ces flat and marshy, soil exuberantly fertile. 
 
 It is curious to see in the heart of the continent of North 
 America, a country so perfectly alluvial, as that which en- 
 circles the south-west and west part of lake Erie. Except 
 the hill behind the custom. house on the peninsula, every oth- 
 er object in Sandusky bay reminded me strongly of some 
 parts of lower Louisiana, and indeed few places can be more 
 similar though so distant, and so differently situated respect- 
 
 * Prairie, this word is from the French, and signifies liter <lly 
 meadow. 
 
183 
 
 SANDUSKY. 
 
 [LET. XIV. 
 
 ing the ocean. All the rivers which flow into lake Erie are 
 intersected by ledges of rock, at a greater or less distance 
 from the margin of (he lake. I have already noticed the al- 
 luvia! border skirting from Buffalo, along the south-east side 
 of the lake, with more or less breadth ; though in some places 
 very narrow, as between Dunkirk and Erie. This alluvial 
 border is continuous^ in no place entirely interrupted, and 
 west of Cayahoga river spreads to the width of from five 
 to ten miles. The ridge of hills which separate the waters 
 of Ohio river from those of lake Erie, and to whose phe- 
 nomena I have drawn your attention, enters the state of Ohio 
 near the dividing line of Ashtabula and Trumbull counties ; 
 pursuing a south-west direction it intersects Trumbull and 
 Portage diagonally, giving rise no its south-east slope to 
 Beaver river of Ohio, and from its north-west inclination 
 flow Grand and Cayahoga rivers. From the south-west an- 
 gle of Trumbull county, the dividing ridge assumes a west 
 direction, which it pursues along the northern border of 
 Stark, and Wayne, and more than half of that of Richland 
 county. From this latter part of the ridge, flow to the 
 south the head waters of Muskingum, and to the north, part 
 of that of Cayahoga, and the sources of Rocky, Black, 
 Beaver of lake Erie, Yermillion, and Huron rivers. In 
 Richland county the ridge turns south-west, which course it 
 maintains through the remainder of the state of Ohio ; dis- 
 charging southwardly the waters of Scioto and Miami, and 
 northwardly those of Sandusky and Maumee rivers. This 
 ridge does not every where appear in the actual form of hills, 
 with intervening vales, but spreads into an extensive table 
 land. It is, however, every where a distinctive land-mark, 
 and forms an important geological feature in the physiogno- 
 my of our country. It appears to rest upon, and to be in 
 great part, except the mere surface, composed of micaceous 
 or limestone schist. The rocks forming shelving acclivities, 
 produce the rapids and falls, which are found in all its rivers. 
 The lowest visible ledge of this vast schistose mass, borders 
 
XET. XIV.] 
 
 SANDUSKY. 
 
 (he great Like Eric alluvial plain, which I have noticed. 
 The plain has all flic features of recent alluvion ; the streams 
 are sluggish in their motions, their beds having hut little in- 
 clination ; the land along the banks is the highest part of the 
 ground ; the intervening spaces between the rivers are low 
 and mostly swampy ; much of the entire surface is prairie, 
 and covered with an exuberant herbage ; the soil, where 
 sufficiently elevated for culture, is productive to excess ; and 
 the inhabitants are subject to intermitting fevers, during the 
 latter part of the summer and beginning of the fall season. 
 These are the attributes of recent alluvion, from the fens of 
 Lincolnshire, and Holland ; from the Pontine marshes to 
 those of the Amazon, Oronoco, Mississippi, and the shores 
 of Erie. 
 
 The extent, and unhealthfulness of the lake Erie alluvion, 
 has been very greatly overrated. Its greatest positive 
 breadth is at the mouth of Maumee, and there it falls short 
 of twenty miles. Following the curve of lake Erie, from 
 the mouth of Huron river, in Huron county, to Brownstown, 
 in the Michigan Territory, is about 100 miles, and allowing 
 the alluvion ten miles wide, would produce 1000 square 
 miles or 6*0,000 acres. I am convinced from all I have 
 been able to learn respecting the country, that the foregoing 
 is too large an estimate* Swamps and itats exist above the 
 lower falls in the rivers, but are of a nature essentially dis- 
 tinct from the alluvial plains along the lake shore. 
 
 The village of Sandusky contains only a few new houses. 
 The bank slopes from the water eilgs a short distance, and 
 then becomes an almost uniform level. The depth of soil is 
 not considerable | the bank upon which the town is built 
 rests upon a bed of schistose sandstone, of excellent quality 
 for building and pnving. This schistose base no doubt un- 
 derlays the whole adjacent country, extending un/ier the 
 mass of similar rock over w hich the w aters of the various 
 streams are precipitated in (heir way from the higher inte- 
 rior region. 
 
VENICE. 
 
 [LET. XIV. 
 
 I walked from the village of Sandusky to that of Venice, 
 Tour and a half miles higher up the bay. Quitting the vil- 
 lage of Sandusky a very short distance, I was more than 
 over impressed with the resemblance of the surface of the 
 earth to many places I had seen on the southern waters of 
 the Mississippi. The timber was in great part different 
 from that of Louisiana, but with the exception of sugar ma- 
 ple considerable resemblance exists in the forests of the two 
 countries. I found here upon the Sandusky plain three or 
 four species of hickory, three or four of oak, intermixed 
 with ash, elm, linden, sugar maple, and an underwood of 
 alder and sumac. 
 
 I found Venice situated upon the western shore of a muddy 
 creek, upon a bank much lower and more disadvantageous!* 7 
 situated than that upon which stands the village of Sandusky 
 or Portland ; though the former village is at present much 
 larger than the latter. Each have the appearance of towns 
 in the first stage of their existence. In January 179S, I saw 
 the now flourishing Steubenville, in the state of Ohio, not 
 more advanced or promising than are now Sandusky and 
 Venice. The great fertility of the lands in their neighbor- 
 hood* and their situation upon one of the best harbors' of 
 lake Eric, are propitious circumstances in favor oi their fu- 
 ture prosperity. The western line of the Fire lands and of 
 the surveyed part of the state of Ohio, crosses Sandusky bay 
 about two miles west of Venice, and continuing north crosses 
 the peninsula and leaves the township of Danbury to the 
 cast. 
 
 Monday, August 10th, I left Sandusky bay with a breeze 
 from the west, and after clearing the bar had a fine view of 
 the peninsula, Cunningham's island, and the southern Bass 
 island. With a light wind upon our quarter we sailed to the 
 north-west, between Cunningham's island and the peninsula* 
 tlie channel about three miles wide- I had a very fair view 
 of the adjacent shores, and found them composed, as I had 
 formerly heard them represented, of schistose sandstone and 
 
LET. XIV.] 
 
 PUT-IN-BAY. 
 
 crumbling limestoac ; (lie latter frequently tohite as ehalfc* 
 and appears worn into chasms by the surf of the lake, and 
 rising from one to ten feet above the water. Cunningham's is 
 the easternmost and largest of the lake Erie islands, is about 
 8 niiles long by one medial width, or covering perhaps two 
 thousand acres of land. Some settlements were formerly 
 made upon this island, but (he inhabitants were obliged by 
 the savages to abandon their farms during the last wan 
 
 Passing Cunningham's, the Bass islands came in view to 
 die N. W. about eight or ten miles distant. Approaching 
 the southern Bass, (lie first prominent object that is now- 
 seen, is what is called Edward's clearing* or Put-in-bay* 
 The west wind prevented trie from visiting this noble harbor, 
 decidedly the best in all lake Erie, and dear to the American 
 heart, from the events of last war. It was from here, that 
 on the morning of September lCMh, iSiS, Commodore Perry 
 led his fleet, to obtain the first naval victory, in squadron, 
 ever obtained by the United States ; and it was into this 
 bay, that on the evening of the same day, the captured Bri- 
 tish fleet was conveyed by its intrepid conquerors. You have 
 so often read, and so well remember the detail of this evenly 
 that a repetition here would be lost time tons both. 
 
 I passed the eastern mouth of Put-in-bay at the distance 
 of half a mile ; its form and situation are both admirable* 
 The Bass islands form a group of seven, lying xibout three 
 miles from part of the Sandusky peninsula, and, as I have 
 already observed, seven or eight niiles north-west of Cun- 
 ningham's island. Putin-hay, is formed by a curve of the 
 largest and most southern of the Bass groups, having 
 two entrances, one from the east and the other from the west. 
 The bay is very finely land-locked. The second large island 
 ©f the group, stretching from east to west across the widest 
 part at half a mile distant, and one of the smaller islands 
 lying opposite each channel. The three main islands do not 
 differ much in extent, though that in which is Put in-bay is 
 the largest* All are uninhabited, and covered with a dense 
 
 9 
 
±86 
 
 & CHICKENS. 
 
 [let. XIV. 
 
 forest. I had no means to determine their area with certain" 
 ty, but judged the three main islands to average about one 
 and a half miles long, and half a mile wide, and may cover 
 from 2,500 to 3000 acres taken collectively, resting upon a 
 solid mass of schistose rock in great part limestone. From 
 here limestone, for the purpose of making lime, is carried as 
 far as Detroit and Cleveland. The soil is excellent, and 
 would admit a little settlement of thirty or forty families. 
 But every object of utility to which the Bass islands could 
 be applied, yields to (he importance of Put-in-bay. This 
 line haven admits entrance and anchorage for vessels of any 
 supposabic draught, safe from all winds. It must become, 
 from its position and depth of water, an object of great na- 
 tional value. No harbor in lake Erie, or in its connecting 
 waters, except in Erie strait, can in any respect compare 
 with it ; its occupation as a naval and commercial station 
 must one day take place. 
 
 The w ind continuing light, we passed the Bass island slow - 
 ly, sailing north, and when opposite the north-westernmost 
 of the group, could also distinctly see point Pele island 
 on the Canada shore. Clearing the Bass islands, we turned 
 again north-west, but were almost becalmed all the afternoon ; 
 we, however, passed (he group of small islands, called the 
 Hen & Chickens, consisting of four, lying in a kind of cres- 
 cent, five or six miles north-west of the northern Bass. We 
 left the Hen & Chickens to the north, and in the evening had 
 the Bass islands to the south-cast, the Hen & Chickens north- 
 east, and the eastern Sister island to the west. We were 
 now upon or very near the scene of Perry's battle ; the eve- 
 ning was serene and beautiful ; our little bark glided smooth- 
 ly and slowly over the waves, w here exactly five years, less one 
 month before, the United States' Hag was hoisted oVertheBri- 
 tish ensign. I do not remember to have ever spent an evening 
 ;»< sea with so much pleasure. I literally fell asleep on deck, 
 listening to a sailor repeatedly singing a rude song, com- 
 memorative of this event of national glory. The song 
 
XET. XIV. 
 
 SISTER ISLANUS. 
 
 187 
 
 ster had himself been in the battle, and seemed to feel a 
 strong emotion of national enthusiasm in passing the now 
 peaceful scene, where lie saw the humbled pride of the ene- 
 mies of his country. 
 
 There are three islands extending south west from the 
 Hen & Chickens, and stretching towards Maumee bay, they 
 are called the eastern, middle, and western Sister, though 
 in fact they lie from each other north-east and south west ; 
 they are all small, neither exceeds twenty or thirty acres. 
 The eastern Sister, the smallest of the three, being about 
 three acres, on which a considerable part of general Harri- 
 son's army, the same which reconquered Michigan, and de- 
 feated general Proctor on the Thames, was encamped from 
 the 25th to the 27th September, 18t3. It was, in all human 
 probability, for that length of time, the best peopled island 
 that ever existed oil our globe. 
 
 On the afternoon of the 11th, I arrived in (he city of De- 
 troit, considerably fatigued, and very willing to enjoy solid 
 land, though so short a time in the vessel. You will hear of 
 me again in a few days, 
 
 Adieu* 
 
 LETTER XV, 
 
 Detroit, August 14, 1818; 
 
 Dear But, 
 
 I HAVjfi now been three days in this city, which for many 
 reasons has excited and continues to excite more attention 
 than its apparent magnitude would seem to justify, Tim- 
 
488 
 
 4>KTK0IT. 
 
 [LET. XV. 
 
 events of last Mar contributed to render both the city and 
 country objects of great interest to the American people. 
 Like most events that have taken place in the world, where 
 so much passion was excited, I am convinced that those in 
 this quarter, and the operations of affairs here, have never 
 been given to the world in all the naked purity of truth. 
 This much may be said, without once attempting to call in 
 question the veracity of any individual. Much distortion of 
 judgment may exist without a breach of rectitude. It would 
 perhaps be dangerous to offer an opinion in mitigation of the 
 conduct of general Hull, and yet if the expressions of those 
 most concerned and best informed on this subject, that is 
 the persons wiio were here before the war, and remained 
 here to its termination, deserve any weight, that unfortunate 
 officer was rather incapable than treacherous, rather borne 
 down by the weight of the difficulties thai environed him on 
 all sides, than disposed to sacrifice either the interest or 
 honor of a country, in whose service he had grown grey. 
 And yet if these mitigating opinions be founded upon reality* 
 general Hull, if his days were not abridged, the remaining 
 years of his life were doomed to be passed in bitterness and 
 regret, for causes over which he had no control, for calami- 
 ties in which he himself was a sufferer, and without the 
 power to produce a preventive or remedy. 
 
 Detroit, politically and commercially, is separated by an 
 expanse of water, and by an uncultivated waste, from the 
 other parts of the United States, and remains, together with 
 the little community in its environs, an isolated moral mass, 
 having few sympathies in common, and but a slight tie of 
 interest to unite it to the sovereignty of which it forms a 
 part. Much of the association is formed with, and great 
 part of the trade of Detroit is yet carried towards a foreign 
 state. This separation of sentiment and action, is daily be- 
 coming less distant between the great body of the United 
 States community, and a small but important member. The 
 ravage tribes arc retiring, and civilized man extending hi* 
 
•JiET. XV\g 
 
 DETROIT. 
 
 189 
 
 dwelling over the wide expanse, from Ohio river lo lakes 
 Michigan and Huron. 
 
 Many years past, when I resided in Louisiana, and when 
 by a freak of folly so common with Spanish officers, the 
 port of New-Orleans was closed upon the interior commerce 
 of the United States ; I well remember that the two great 
 political parties, into which our country was then divided, 
 though discussing warmly the most proper means of procu- 
 ring this commercial key, in one circumstance they were of 
 accord, that was, that the surplus produce of all our states 
 and territories, situated upon the tributary streams of the 
 Mississippi, must find a vent by that great outlet ; and poli- 
 ticians of all parties conceded that the power, whether that 
 of Spain, France, Great Britain, or the United States, 
 which possessed New-Orleans, must, with that city, secure 
 also the political and moral government of the inhabitants of 
 countries, whose vital interests were there concentrated. I 
 have heard and read many reasons given foi* and against the 
 Grand Canal of New-York, but the most potent incentive to 
 its completion, that ought to influence those who are employ- 
 ed to carry that vast project into execution, has been geuer- 
 rally overlooked. If such a channel of commerce was open, 
 the consequence would be, not only to secure to the United 
 States the benefits of the produce of its own industry, but 
 also to secure the moral attachment of the inhabitants of some 
 of its remote, and, as matters now stand, most detached parts. 
 Above the falls of Niagara, Canadian commerce would also 
 flow with the most open, unobstructed current, and give to 
 the people of the United States an irresistible influence over 
 the widest extent, and most fertile part of Upper Canada. 
 Buffalo, Detroit, Michiiimakinac, and Green bay, would 
 form an immense chain of inter-communication, and by Fox 
 and Ouisconsin rivers, the commercial rivalry of New-York 
 and New Orleans would cojne in contact in the heart of our 
 country. 
 
 O 2 
 
"DETROIT. 
 
 [LET. XV 
 
 Detroit is now a |>laee of extensive commerce, with all 
 the attributes of a seaport ; it forms the uniting link between 
 a vast interior, inhabited jet, in great part by savages, and 
 1 he eiviiized Atlantic border. Yoa here behold those pon- 
 derous packages of articles destined for Indian trade, and 
 while viewing those hales of strotid and blankets; 1 could not 
 avoid calling to recollection the time when I beheld the same 
 objects upon the Ohio, at Pittsburg, "Wheeling, Marietta, 
 Cincinnati, and Louisville; places, whereat this time, those 
 rude articles are replaced by objects to satisfy she wants, or 
 gratify the luxury of a polished people. The resident society 
 of Detroit, Iras ail the exterior features of a flourishing and 
 cultivated eomm unity, as much so, equivalent to numbers, as 
 any city of the United States. I particularly remarked the 
 great resemblance between the current of business and mix- 
 ture of people here, and at Natchitoches on Red river, in 
 Louisiana, Each place occupies the point of contact, be- 
 tween the aboriginal inhabitants of the wilderness, and the 
 civilized people, who are pressing those natives of North 
 America backwards, by the double force of physical and 
 moral weight. In each place, you behold at one glance the 
 extremes of human improvement, costume, and manners. 
 You behold the inhabitants in habiliments that would suit the 
 walks of New - York, Philadelphia, London or Paris, and jou 
 also behold the bushy, bare-headed savage, almost in prime- 
 val nudity. In the same store-house, you see placed upon 
 l he same shelf, objects to supply the first and last wants of 
 human nature. 
 
 The city of Detroit is situated upon the right bank of the 
 strait of the same, which unites lakes Erie and Huron 
 N. lat 42° 15' 36"— W. long, from Washington city , 5° 30 — 
 or 82« 36' west from London. The strait (Detroit) is of 
 very unequal breadth, its narrowest part is immediately op - 
 
 # Detroit, is the French for Strait, and literally signifies JWr- 
 row ; from which change of an adjective to a noun, comes the 
 name of Detroit. 
 
XET. XV.] 
 
 DETROIT. 
 
 191 
 
 posite the cily of Detroit. I bad letters to Peter Audrain, 
 esq. Register of (lie land ouiee in this city, which procured 
 me access to the maps in his office, amongst which is an excel- 
 lent representation of that part of the Michigan Territory 
 which lias been surveyed, together with the straits of St. 
 Clair and Erie, and lake St. Clair, connected with the adja- 
 cent shores of Canada. I have copied this map, from which 
 the following table is constructed : 
 
 TABLE 
 
 0F THE STATIONARY DISTANCES FROM LAKE ERIE TO LAKE HURON, 
 WITH THS WIDTH OP THE SRAITS OPPOSITE EACH STATION. 
 
 Station. 1 Mile*. Breadth, 
 
 Huron river, U. S. shore, 
 Lower extremity of Celeron island, 
 Month of Brown's creek, U. S. shore, 
 Bois Blanc island, opposite the lower end 
 
 of Gros isle, - 
 Upper end of Bois Blanc, 
 Amherstsburg, and Fort Maiden, Canada, 
 River aux Canards, 
 Lower end of Grand Turkey island, 
 Upper end of Gros island, U. S. slioie, 
 Mouth of the river Ecorces, 
 Upper end of Grand Turkey island, - 
 River Rouge, U. S. shore, 
 Sandwich, in Canada, 
 City of DETROIT, 
 Lower end of Hog island, 
 Upper do. do. 
 Lower end of Peach island, 
 Upper do. do. 
 Mouth of Huron river, of lake St. Clair, 
 
 and entrance to Anchor bay, 
 Mouth of St. Clair river, 
 Outlet of the Eagle channel, 
 Outlet of the Warpole channel, 
 Outlet of the Chenail Ecrate, 
 Mouth of Belie Riviere, 
 Mouth of Pine river, 
 Lower end of isle aux Cerfe, 
 Upper end of do. 
 River Delude, U. S. shore, 
 Fort Gratiot, M. T. and entrance to lake 
 
 Hurcn, - - - 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 1 1-4 
 1-4 
 3 1-2 
 I 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 1 1-2 
 
 2 l-' 
 2 
 
 I 
 1 
 
 19 
 7 
 
 4 
 3 
 2 
 
 4 
 8 
 4 
 2 
 5 
 
 21 1-2 
 
 4 
 5 
 5 
 9 
 
 10 
 12 
 14 
 17 
 13 
 20 
 2 
 
 24 
 26 
 27 
 28 
 
 47 
 54 
 58 
 61 
 63 
 67 
 75 
 79 
 81 
 86 
 
 1-4 
 1-2 
 
 89 t 
 
[l.ET. XT. 
 
 These distances are not taken with precision to small frac- 
 tions of a mile, hut measuring <hc entire distances by live 
 mile sections taken from the scale, the respective results are 
 sufficiently near as to answer all general purposes, and w ill 
 suffice to enable you to form an accurate idea of the rela- 
 tive position of the places named. I have not given in 
 the table (he bread! h cf St. Clair river, above (he Che- 
 nail Ecarte,* as it is uniformly about three fourths of a 
 mile. 
 
 Approaching the month of Detroit river, the shores on 
 ^11 sides are low* no land is seen that rises to any considera- 
 ble elevation above the water. The ship channel hcing-on 
 the Canada side, vessels pass close upon the cape below 7 Am- 
 Jjerstfaurg ; the shores rise here very gently from the lake, 
 soil sandy, but appear well settled and cultivated. Huron 
 l iver of lake Erief enters from Michigan Territory, where 
 the lake is so contracted as to render it a suitable point to 
 commence the name of the strait, though no perceptible 
 current appears below the bottom of Bcis Blanc island. A 
 jjroup of small islands encircle the lower end of Gros isle, 
 of *vlsieh Celeron, Hickory, Sugar, Fox, and particularly 
 Bois Blanc, are the principal. The latter is indeed of great 
 consequence, It is high, dry, and fit for culture, covered 
 with timber, soil extremely fertile ; but what renders it a 
 particular object of interest, is the circumstance of its com- 
 pletely commanding the main ship channel to Detroit. A 
 much wider expanse of water lies between Bois Blanc and 
 Gros isle, and between Gros isle and the continent of Mi 
 
 * The terrh Chenal, or mere correctly Chenal Ecarte, signifies 
 literally dispersed or scattered, and is very well applied o the out- 
 let of rivers; but the same name is given in several instances in 
 Canada to waters flowing into others, therefore very improper. 
 
 f There are three rivers of this name, two of which enter lake 
 Erie, and one Anchor bay in lake St. Clair. It is extremely per- 
 plexing, such repetition of the same narjes (or places so near each 
 
 other. . 
 
XET. XV-. ] 
 
 AMHERSTBURft. 
 
 193 
 
 chigan Territory, than flows between Bois Blanc and (he Can- 
 ada shore, but the latter, though not above one quarter of a 
 mile wide, is deep enough for the largest vessel, whilst the 
 others are shallow, and perplexed with small islands and 
 sunken bars. 
 
 During last war, a small battery was erected on the lower 
 point of Bois Blanc, 'which is now deserted, and the island 
 now serves as a camping ground for the savages w ho visit 
 Ainherstburg. This island will he one of the most impor- 
 tant points which the commissioners, wilder the treaty of 
 Ghent, will have to deters inc. At Amherst burg the banks 
 have gradually risen to fifteen or twenty feet above the water, 
 sloping by very gentle acclivity. The town contains from 
 250 to 300 houses, mostly of wood, and perhaps twelve hun- 
 dred people. The harbor is excellent, the water continuing 
 deep to very near the shore. Some fine ware-houses line the 
 banks, and with the shipping give a commercial air to the 
 plaee. The adjacent farms have an elegant appearance, 
 and follow each oilier without inn eh interval of uncleared 
 land. 
 
 Fort Maiden, by which name Amherstburg was formerly 
 known, stands above the town, but is now in ruins, only some 
 dilapidated breast works and barracks remain,, be perhaps 
 never repaired. * 
 
 Gros isle is a fine body of land, eight miles long by a me- 
 dial width of one and a half miles, contains about twelve 
 sections of a mile square, or 7,G80 acres of excellent land. 
 Several farms have been opened on this island, but the great- 
 est part of its surface continues under a heavy forest. From 
 the upper point of Bois Blanc island, the ship channel grad- 
 ually leaves the Canada shore, and passes between Gros and 
 Grand Turkey island, the main channel about two miles 
 wide. Turkey island is about seven miles in length and one 
 mile medial breadth, much of its surface marshy. The 
 riviere aux Canards or Duck river, falls into the strait 
 from the Canada side, one mile below the lower point of 
 
STRAIT* 
 
 £let. XV. 
 
 Grand Turkey island ; the riviere aux Ecorees or Bark 
 liver from Michigan Territory, enters something above i(s 
 middle* or two miles above the higher point of Gros isle ; 
 riviere Rouge or lied river, falls into the strait, also from 
 Michigan Territory, four miles above t!i£ riviere aux Iv or- 
 ees, and one mile above the higher extremity of Grand Tur- 
 key island. Above the latter island, (he strait suddenly con- 
 traets from four to one and a "quarter wide, and continues 
 becoming narrower to the city of Detroit, where its width 
 falls short of a mile. 
 
 In -coming up the strait, when the woods of Gros isle are 
 cleared, both shores exhibit lines of farm houses, intersper- 
 sed with orchards and gardens. The settlements on the 
 United S(aie3 side, continue up the rivieres Ecorees and 
 Rouge, which, together with those along the shore of that 
 strait, present a country in a high state of culture. The 
 Canada shore is not less improved than that of the United 
 States ; farm follows farm upon both banks, which, with the 
 houses, wind-mills, and vessels on the strait, afford a fine 
 picture of agricultural and commercial prosperity. 
 
 The banks upon the United States shore, rise from the 
 waterless abruptly than those of Canada, except at the 
 spring mill, three miles below the city of Detroit, where the 
 former rises to the height of 'twenty or thirty feet, appear- 
 ing as a comparative hill as seen from the strait. All the 
 rivers and creeks enter from both sides, through low;, 
 swampy land covered with folle avoine, or wild oats, This 
 aquatic grain, though thus named, is nevertheless essentially 
 different from either oats or rice j no vegetable that I have 
 ever seen, has a more beautiful appearance than is exhibited 
 by the immense marshes, covered with the folle avoine ; it 
 is now in blossom, exhaling a peculiarly pleasing fragrance. 
 
 Sandwich is a smalltown, though the seat of justice in 
 Essex county, Upper Canada ; it stands upon the banks of the 
 strait, one and a half mile below Dotroit. I walked down 
 yesterday to the ferry opposite, and crossed over to Sand- 
 
XET. XY.] 
 
 DETROIT, 
 
 wieh, and returned to this city in the evening. I found it a 
 village built principally of wood, composing a single street 
 running parallel to (he strait* with about as many stores and 
 taverns as would be found in a place of similar size in the 
 United States. The banks slope gradually from the water, 
 though immediately above the town, they rise abrupt, and 
 appear considerably higher than those opposite, upon winch 
 tiie city of Detroit is built. The shores of the strait on both 
 sides are cleared of timber from one and a half to three 
 miles from the water, giving the country in the rear of the 
 front farm houses a naked appearance. The woods, where 
 not cut down, is excessively dense, and the timber large. 
 The soil, if any judgment can be formed by the aspect of the 
 crops, is very productive. The bank of the strait has been 
 \aunted, I believe correctly, for its fine orchards ; fruit trees* 
 apples, pears, peaches, and plumbs, have a very healthy ap- 
 pearance. 
 
 The city of Detroit is exceedingly well situated for a com - 
 mercial port ; the banks rise gently from the water, afford- 
 ing an easy communication with the store-houses in the city. 
 Several wharves have been extended to considerable dis- 
 tance into the stream, the largest and best of which was 
 made by the officers of the United States troops, for the use 
 of, and in front of the garrison. The streets are laid out 
 at right angles to each other, but are all inclining from the 
 banks of the strait. The main-street leaves the strait in 
 front of the garrison, but at the upper end of the city lias 
 two other parallel streets between it and the wharves. r I lie 
 cross streets are not of much consequence at present, having 
 but few houses built upon them, except near line main-street. 
 Leaving the lower end of the city, it is difficult to know 
 where it. terminates, as the farm houses are so closely uni- 
 ted to each other. Above the city, though the margin of 
 the strait is well cultivated, the farm houses do not stand 
 so compact as they do below. 
 
19$ DETROIT* [LET* XlT. 
 
 I have found two men hei*e> from whom I have received 
 inuch useful information and polite treatment, governor Cass 
 and judge May, the hitler of whom has resided at Detroit 
 forty years, and possesses, perhaps, more correct knowledge 
 of its history, than any man living. Gov* Cass resides on 
 the banks of the strait below the garrison. To these two 
 excellent men I am under very great obligations. The gov- 
 ernor leaves this city on the 16th to meet the governor of 
 Ohio, in order to hold a treaty with the Putawattamies, Wy- 
 andotS; Seneeas. Weas, and other nations of Indians.-^ 
 
 * This treaty resulted in the following cessions of Iand ? with 
 the annexed reservations. The cessions are of great conse- 
 quence to the frontiers of Ohio ajud Michigan, as it tends to re- 
 move the savages to a greater distance westward. 
 
 " Cincinnati, Oct. 15. 
 
 " Treaties tvith the Indians. — Our correspondent at St. Mary's 
 lias furnished us with the following hasty sketch of the treaties 
 concluded with the Indians by our commissioners. The treaties 
 were signed on the 6th inst. By these treaties the United States 
 liave seem ed more than seven millions of acres of land. 
 
 " We learn from our correspondent that the Miamis manifest- 
 ed a great deal of duplicity in their negotiations. 
 
 (i To the states of Ohio and Indiana these acquisitions are of 
 immense importance. In a few years these almost interminable 
 forests will be converted into flourishing towns and villages, and 
 cultivated farms : the silent footsteps of the savage will give way 
 to the resounding of the axe, the din of industry, and the bustle 
 of commercial enterprise. 
 
 " REVISION OF THE TREATY OP 1817. 
 
 " Additional reserves by the V/yandots at Upper Sandusky % 
 on tl\e north side between the Cherokee Koys reserve and the 12 
 miles 640 acres, connecting the two $ and on east side of the 12 
 miles. 55,680 acres. 
 
 " To the Wvnndots, residing at Solomon's town, 16,000 acres 
 to centre at Big Spring, between Upper Sandusky and Fort Find- 
 in v and 163 acres lower side Mrs. Whitaker's reserve at Lower 
 Sandusky, reserved fot a ferry or crossing place for the ■Indians. 
 
 " To the Shawanoes on the cast side of the former reserve at 
 Wupnkanetto, 12,800 acres. 
 
 " To the Shawanoes and Seneeas on the west side of Lewis? 
 reserve of 7. miles, 8,960 acres ; all to be equally divided east and 
 west the north half for the Seneeas. and the south half for the Shaw- 
 .anoes. 
 
XET. XV.] 
 
 MICHIGAN, 
 
 197 
 
 Respecting the present state of the population of the Ter- 
 ritory of Michigan, I do not expect to receive much pos- 
 itive information, not contained in the census of 1810. Of 
 the position of the settlements, and the quantity, quality and 
 
 # To the Seneca Indians adjoining south of their reserve of 
 1817 on eaeli side Sandusky river, 10,000 acres. 
 
 u Additional Annuities. — To the Wyandots, 5 00 .dollars ; Shaw- 
 anoes and Senecas of Lewis' town, 1000 dollars ; Senecas on San- 
 dusky river 300 dollars : Ottaways, .,500 dollars ; perpetually to 
 be paid annually. All, together with annuities heretofore grant- 
 ed, payable in specie. 
 
 " treaty of 1818. 
 
 " The Putfawattamies cede from the mouth of Tippecanoe riv- 
 er up the same to a point that will be 25 miles from the Wabash 
 on a direct line ; thence parallel with the general course of the 
 Wabash to the Vermillion river, down the same to the Wabash, 
 thence down the Wabash to the place of beginning (supposed to 
 be 50 or 60 miles,) all their title south of the Wabash, for which 
 they are to receive $2,500 in specie, annually forever, to be paid 
 equally at Detroit and Chicago 5 also annuities heretofore grant- 
 ed to be paid in specie. 
 
 "Grants to the following persons, half bloods, James, John, 
 Isaac, Jacob and Abraham Burnet, two sections of land each ; 
 and to Rebecca and Nancy Burnet, one section of land each — 
 half of the same on the lower side of the mouth of Tippecanoe 
 river, on Wabash, and the other half on Flint river. 
 
 " 610 acres to Peerish, a Puttawattamie chief, on Flint river, at 
 his residence. 
 
 j£ 640 acres to Mary Chattalie, on Wabash, below the mouth of 
 Pine river. 
 
 "The Weas cede their whole interest in Ohio Indiana and Il- 
 linois — Reservation of 7 miles square, on Wabash, above the 
 mouth of Raccoon creek. The United States to pay them a per- 
 petual annuity of 1 150 dollars, which, added to annuities hereto- 
 fore, makes 3000 dollars annually, all payable in specie. 
 
 6i The Delawares cede all their claims in Indiana on White river. 
 The United States to furnish them lands to settle on west of the 
 Mississippi, on the Arkansas ; pay them for their improvements 
 where they now live in 120 horses, not to exceed 40 dollars in 
 value each ; furnish perogues for transportation, provisions for 
 their journey, permit them to occupy for three years hereafter 
 their farms oil White river, and to pay them a perpetual annu- 
 ity of 4000 dollars, which, together with annuities now existing 
 arc payable in specie — Also to furnish them with a blacksmith 
 when they settle west of the Mississippi. They reserve two and a 
 
198 
 
 MICHIGAN* 
 
 [LET. XV. 
 
 locality of the cultivatihle soil, I have procured considerable' 
 document not hitherto made public. Our ordinary maps are 
 deplorably deficient respecting (he peninsula of Michigan, 
 some of the most important livers are slightly marked or 
 wholly omitted. Before proceeding to give you a detail of 
 the extent, position, and respective quality of the soil, 1 will 
 present you with the result of what I have learned in gen- 
 eral, respecting the geological" structure of the peninsula, 
 contained between lakes Michigan, Huron, St. Clair, and 
 Erie, and the straits of Erie and St. Clair. 
 
 It is most probable that the entire region above the Thou- 
 sand islands to lake Superior, reposes upon a bed of floetz or 
 schistic rock, of various component parts. I have already 
 noticed the phenomena which came to my knowledge, along 
 the south and west of lake Erie, and pointed out their effect 
 upon the structure of the rivers of that tract of country. 
 Beyond the Maumee to lake Huron, all the streams, without 
 exemption, which draw their sources from the interior part 
 of the peninsula, are precipitated over considerable falls be- 
 fore arriving at their mouths. You will perceive by the! 
 notes extracted from Audrain's map, 5 * the materials which 
 compose the rocks, ever whose ledges these falls of water 
 are thrown. It appears also that at the distance of twenty 
 
 half sections of land at First creek,above Old Fort and are to receive 
 13,320 dollars for the liquidation of debts owed bv them to traders, 
 &c. 
 
 The Miamiescede their interest to the country east of the Wa- 
 bash, south of a line from Fort Wayne west to the Wabash ; re- 
 serving one tract of 30 miles square on the Wabash, besides a 
 great many others ofless magnitude. The United States to pay 
 them $ 15,000 per annum, perpetually, in specie. 
 
 # I have given this map the name of Audrain in the text, as it 
 was from Mr. Audrain I procured a copy ; but in justice it ought 
 to be noticed that the map was constructed by Mr. Greely, the 
 United States' Surveyor in Michigan Territory, and those useful 
 notes were made upon the original map by Mr. Greely, in his own 
 'hand writing. 
 
LET. XV-] MICHIGAN- 199 
 
 or twenty-five miles from (he extreme depression of the val- 
 ley of St. Clair and Erie, that the table hind of Michigan 
 becomes flat, and covered with innumerable ponds and inter- 
 locking water courses. The rivers have (heir sources upon 
 fills extensive flat, and flow south-east into St. Clair and 
 Erie, and north-west into Michigan, passing over an arable 
 border of about twenty-five miles wide, which skirt the lakes 
 and straits from Maumee to Calumet. Some of the interior 
 plateau is described as good land, but the face of the coun- 
 try is generally too level, and of course subject to immersion 
 in wet seasons. 
 
 The length of the rivers which flow from this table land 
 is remarkably equal, and their banks composed of very sim- 
 ilar soil, and covered with timber of correlative species. 
 Extensive tracts, are open natural meadows or prairie. 
 
 From the foregoing you will perceive that the peninsula 
 of Michigan is a vast cape, projected northwards from the 
 elevated region, from which ilow the Wabash, Maumee, and 
 the eastern streams of the Illinois river. 
 
 In executing the surveys in the Michigan Territory, a 
 meridian line has been drawn, commencing on the river 
 Raisin about five miles above its mouth, and continuing from 
 thence due north seventy-two miles, from whence was drawn 
 another line due east fifty two miles, which intersects the 
 head of St. Clair river at Fort Gratiot. I do not know in 
 what manner the surveys were made, but this is their out- 
 line, as they stand represented in the land office in the city of 
 Detroit. Bounded west and north by these lines, and upon 
 ail other sides by St. Clair river, St. Clair lake, Detroit 
 river, and lake Erie. The ancient settlements were formed 
 along the water courses, and continue to be in most part the 
 only establishments yet made in the territory. 
 
 The superficies included in the surveys, does not vary 
 much from 2,500 square miles or 1.600,000 acres. Some 
 part of the United States land in this area has been sold, 
 but the sales did not operate to add much to the population 
 
200 
 
 MICHIGAN. 
 
 [let- XV. 
 
 of (he country. The valuable fractions of sections were in 
 a great share purchased by the resident inhabitants, and an- 
 nexed to lands already in their possession. Though the soil 
 is good in general, some of it excellent, and all parts well 
 situated for agriculture and commerce, some causes have 
 hitherto operated to prevent any serious emigration to the 
 Michigan Territory. For upwards of a month that I have 
 been (ravelling between this city and Geneva, in the state of 
 New-York, I have seen hundreds removing to the west, and 
 not one in fifty with an intention to settle in Michigan Terri- 
 tory. By the census of 1S10, the inhabitants then were 
 4,762, falling short of 5,000. I cannot be led to consider 
 this enumeration correct, there were in all reasonable modes 
 of calculation, more than 6,000 people in this territory at 
 that period. I cannot consider the present number short of 
 10,000. though since 1810, no increment has been added of 
 consequence to the mass, except that of natural increase. 
 The city of Detroit contains at least 1,200 people, and it 
 does not include more than one eighth of the whole body. 
 
 The lines of settlement extend along the river Raisin, Hu- 
 ron of lake Erie, Detroit river, riviere aux Eeorces, river 
 Rouge, lake St, Clair, Huron of St. Clair, and St. Clair 
 river. Many other minor streams are also lined with set- 
 tlements. I have already observed the great uniformity in 
 the quality of* the land. In no country in which I have trav- 
 elled, are there to be seen so much sameness in that, and in- 
 deed in many other respects, This monotony does not, how* 
 ever, extend to the productions of the soil, which are as 
 varied as the climate will admit ; small grain of all kinds 
 that can be cultivated north of lat. 42°, can be reared in 
 abundance. Fruits are remarkably productive. 
 
 The climate, at least as far north as Fort Gratiot, is as tem- 
 perate as that of the western parts of the state of New-York, 
 and perhaps more healthy. It is conceded that the seasons 
 arc much more mild at Detroit than at Buffalo, the differ- 
 ence is greater than could be expected from the small differ- 
 
MT, XV.] 
 
 MICHIGAN 
 
 201 
 
 enee m latitude, less than one degree. The phenomenon 
 may be, and I believe it is produced by the prevalence of 
 westerly winds, which crowd the ice continually into the 
 W« E. angle of lake Erie. 
 
 The following notes I extracted from the map in Mr. Au- 
 drain's office ; they will afford you some knowledge of parts 
 of our country hitherto unknown. 
 
 " Riviere aux Raisins, (Grape river) is a rapid stream of 
 about 150 miles in length, and generally four chains in 
 breadth. During the time of freshets, large rafts of tim- 
 ber can descend the river from the confluence of the Nee- 
 meeon, a considerable branch, about 2* miles from lake 
 Erie. Six miles above the mouth of the river Raisin, its 
 rapidity is such that it can only be ascended with light ca- 
 noes j at the mouth it has a sand bar, which obstructs the 
 entrance of vessels drawing more than two feet water. 
 
 The banks are clothed with heavy oak, hickory, ash, elm, 
 linden, yellow wood (liriodeutlron tulipifera) the latter an- 
 swering well for boards ; the soil is a black loam." 
 
 " Huron of Erie, can be ascended 150 miles to a portage 
 ef about 3 miles, into a stream called the Grand river, en- 
 tering into lake Michigan. The river Huron is about 200 
 miles in length ; course from the west, and general width 
 four chains 88 yards. 
 
 Vessels drawing four feet water can enter and ascend four 
 miles. The land is generally hilly on the southern border, 
 having good limber and rich soil ; and on the northern bor- 
 der extensive prairies, light sandy soil." 
 
 " Riviere Rouge is about two chains in width, discharging 
 into the strait of Erie about four miles below the city of De- 
 troit ; it is navigable for vessels drawing 16 feet water, four 
 miles from its mouth to the ship yard ; thence for craft 
 drawings feet water, 8 miles, it then branches into conside- 
 rable streams, upon which the lands are excellent. The 
 fimbcr on the banks of this river is oak, sugar maple, elul« 
 
 P 
 
MICHIGAN 
 
 [LET. XV. 
 
 bass wood, f linden J poplar, fliriodendron tulipifcra J and 
 oak. The soil is a black loam," 
 
 « Huron oflake St. Clair, is generally about three chains 
 (65 rai ds) hi width, and navigable for boats drawing three 
 ieet \va(er ten miles, It) (he first branch. The main branch* 
 interlocks witli the northern branches of the r iver Rouge. 
 r J he border of (his river is covered with excellent w hite oak, 
 and the soil is equal to any in the territory." 
 
 These notes were taken by me from the original map, in 
 the surveyor's, Mr. Aaron Grcly's own hand writing. I 
 deem them of statistical importance, as being made from 
 actual observation under the authority of the United States 
 government, and as they tend to establish the great general 
 features of the rivers of Michigan Territory. 
 
 It may be observed as a curious geological coincidence, 
 that the Michigan peninsula is contrasted with another pro- 
 jection of land, of a similar general form and very nearly 
 equal extent. The Canadian peninusula is, however, more 
 insulated -than that of Michigan. The former is also dis- 
 tinguished from (lie latter by some other peculiar features. 
 The river Thames (hi riviere a la Tranche) of the French 
 or Escansippi of the savages, rises in very near the centre of 
 the Canadian peninsula, runs to the south-west, having also 
 another parallel and almost equal stream to the Chenal 
 Ecarte, flowing both into the eastern side of lake St. Clair. 
 
 It is remarkable that these two streams are without fails 
 or rapids in ail their course ; the Thames about one hundred, 
 and the Chenal Eeartc eighty miles in length. This exemp- 
 tion from rapids is the case, however, with all the known 
 streams of this part of Canada, and proves that its surface 
 is much lower (ban that of the Michigan peninsula. The 
 mil of the former, from a!! the concurrent accounts I have 
 penl is even siili more fertile than that of the hitter. 
 
 Mr. Samuel 11. Brown, author of the Western Gazetteer, 
 i r peaking from personal observation, having been in general 
 Harrison's army when that officer pursued general Proctor 
 
LET, XV. j 
 
 MICHIGAN. 
 
 203 
 
 up the Thames, stated (hat, " The land in this pari of the 
 «• Upper Province is uncommonly fertile* and admirably eal- 
 *« eulated for farms. Oa the river there are extensive hot- 
 • 4 ioms, then a gentle rise of beautiful limbered land, to 
 ii which succeed openings well calculated for wheat. 95 
 
 [Jlr. Broicn's fmnphUU Troy, 181*, p< 0& 
 Smith's Gazetteer of Upper Canada, describing the 
 Thames, observes that, " I.t is a fine inland canal, and capa- 
 " ble of being greatly improved. The lands on i(s banks 
 *« are extremeJv fcftijf.," 
 
 Mr. Bouchette gives a richly coloured, bnt 1 am induced 
 to believe a true sketch of this charming country. 
 
 " Along the northern part of the Niagara district runs a 
 ridge called the Queenstown heights, stretching across the 
 river Niagara, and away eastward into the state of New- 
 York ; the altitude of this range in any part of it, does not 
 exceed 160 yards above the surface of the lake, (Ontario.) 
 This space containing (he Newcastle, the Home, ami the Nia- 
 gara districts, is watered by a great number of streams, both 
 large and small, that greatly contribute to il s fertility ; in 
 the latter district is the Weiiand, formerly called the Chip- 
 pewa, a beautiful river, flowing through a remarkable fertile 
 country for about forty miles, and wholly unobstructed by 
 falls ; aiso the Quae or Grand river, a stream of much great- 
 er magnitude, rising in the interior of the country, towards 
 lake Huron, and after winding a long and picturesque course, 
 falls into lake Erie : across its mouth there is a bar, but 
 always with eight feet water upon it. It is navigable for 
 small voxels from the lake many miles upwards, and for 
 boats to a much greater distance. 
 
 • 4 The land through the whole of the last mentioned dis- 
 trict is uiKomnionly rich and fertile, with a considerable por- 
 tion of very flourishing settlements upon it. From the river 
 Ouse, proceeding along the shore of lake Erie, up to the 
 lake and river St. Ckir, the whole space is extremely even. 
 With scarcely a league of it but what displays excellent situ- 
 
MICHIGAN. [let. xv# 
 
 aiions for settlements, and in spots where (lie land is already 
 under tillage ; finer crops or more thriving farms are not to 
 be met with in any part of either province.' 
 
 M The portion of the western district, lying between lake 
 Erie and Sake Si, Clair, is perphaps the most delightful of 
 all the province. The fertility of the soil, the richly dive 
 sificd and luxuriant beauties that every where court tin 
 view, the abundant variety of excellent ftsli that teem in ihi 
 rivers, and the profusion of game of different species that 
 enliven the woods, the thickets and (he meadows, combine 
 to insure a preference to this highly favored tract for the 
 establishment of new settlements. 
 
 f* From the Ouse to lake St. Clair, the space is occupied 
 by the London and Western districts ; it is watered by ma- 
 ny small streams falling into lake Erie, besides the river 
 Chenal Ecarte, and the exquisitely picturesque river 
 Thames, formerly called the riviere a la Franehe. The 
 latter rises far in the interior, about the township of Bland- 
 ford, and after pursuing a serpentine course in a direction 
 nearly south-west, discharges itself into lake St. Clair. It 
 is navigable for vessels full twenty miles from its mouth, 
 and (or boats and canoes- nearly tip to its source, but little 
 less than one hundred miles. The river Chenal Ecarte runs 
 almost parallel to the Thames, at about ten miles from it, 
 siml also fails into Lake St. Clair. The portions now des- 
 cribed are those only that are more or less settled upon, 
 III the rear of the townships arc large tracts of land stretch- 
 ing far to the northward, covered with immense forests, and 
 lit tic know n except to the Indians ; but it has been ascer- 
 tained that there are many wide spreading extents of rich 
 and fertile soil, particularly bordering upon the south-West 
 bank of (he Ottawa river. Through these regions, as jet 
 unexplored by civilized man, there are many streams, and 
 some of great size that flow both into lake Huron and into 
 the Ottawa river but none of (hem have been sufficiently 
 traced to admit of being delineated on any map. Timber in 
 
) 
 
 LET. XV.] MICHIGAN. £Qj 
 
 almost every variety is found in the greatest profusion; the 
 oak, beech, walnut, (hickory) ash, maple, elm, pine, syca- 
 more, lurch, and many other sorts are of peculiar excellence, 
 ami of capital dimensions. Tire climate is so peculiarly sa- 
 lubrious, that epidemic diseases, either amongst men or cat- 
 lie, are almost unknown ; its influence upon the fertility of 
 ttie ^oil is jnore generally perceptible Shan it is in Lower 
 Canada, and supposed to be congenial to vegetation in a 
 much superior degree. The winters are shorter, and not. 
 always marked with such rigor as in the latter ; the dura- 
 tion of the frost is alw ays accompanied w ith a fine clear sky 
 and a dry atmosphere ; the spring opens, and the resump- 
 tion of agricultural labor takes place from six weeks to two 
 months earlier than what it does in the neighborhood of 
 Quebec; the summer heats rarely prevail to excess, and the 
 autumns are usually very friendly to the harvests, and favor- 
 able for securing all the late crops. In fact, upon so good a 
 soil, and under such a climate, industry and an increase of 
 population are only wanting to render this colony flourishing 
 and happy." 
 
 [Bouchettcs Remarks upon Upper Canada, p. 593. 
 
 The valley in which flow the river Thames and Chens I 
 Ecarte, in Canada, occupies the same relative part of the 
 peninsula, in w hich it exists, as does the table land of that 
 of Michigan, giving great advantage to the former. In 
 point of soil and climate no particular difference can be per- 
 ceived between the opposing banks of the straits of Erie and 
 St. Clair. All the Canadian, and most of the Michigan pe- 
 ninsula, are south ol the forty-fifth degree of north latitude ; 
 considerable difference in the seasons exists between the 
 northern and southern parts ; spring is much earlier, and 
 autumn more protracted at Detroit, Sandwich, and Amherst- 
 burg, than at York and Fort Gratiot. 
 
 Taken as an entire whole, I very much doubt if any part 
 of the earth does greatly exceed the St. Lawrence valley, 
 in the natural benefits which, judiciously cultivated, secures 
 
 F2 
 
:ZOG MICHIGAN. [LKT. XV. 
 
 the happiness, comfort* arid indulgcfrcies of human life. The 
 summei'i arc to a proverb delightful!, rtie winters are cold, 
 when compared with those of even our twiddle states, but a 
 Canadian w inter if cold, is uniform to a degree inconceiva- 
 ble, to most of those who are acquainted wiihthe changeable 
 .seasons below the forfy-s( eond degree of north latitude, in 
 the meaning of the term Canadian winter, I do not simply 
 intend those of Canada only ; it applies with equal force to 
 nearly, if not all the countries drained by the St. Law rence? 
 of course includes immense tracts comprised within the ter- 
 ritorial limits of the United States. 
 
 I am now v\ion the eve of returning to the city off New 
 York, of retiming my steps, and of bidding, perhaps silt 
 eternal adieu in a few clays to a country, where the pain, 
 anxiety, and vicissitudes of travelling, dkl not prevent iii^ 
 from beholding and admiring the face of nature in her rich- 
 est garb. I have endeavored to convey to the friend of my 
 heart the impressions I have received. Yon know how far I 
 have succeeded. ] now turn *! a longing livgtrivglocIS' to- 
 wards heme, and the dearest associations of life,; I hope in 
 jess than one month to f%ain embrace those friends, wlioity 
 amid even the wonders of Niagara, or the storms of Erie I 
 could not forget. I hope to fetivc this city to-morrow, in t\w 
 mean time? 
 
 Adkm, 
 
LET. XVI. 
 
 BUFFALO. 
 
 '207 
 
 LETTER XVI. 
 
 Ikifj'ido, August 31, IS 18. 
 
 Dear Sir, 
 
 As I informed ytiit in my last, I left Detroit on the 23d 
 inst. and have arrived here yesterday. I took my passage 
 in a lake schooner. The steam-boat Walk-5n-thc-water was 
 impatiently expected at Detroit, but did not arrive until after 
 I left that city ; I did not see lief, but learned at the' town of 
 Eric that she was gone up and performed well, though draw- 
 ing rather too much water to suit entirely the navigation of 
 lake Erie. She stranded in about seven feet w ater on Erie 
 bar. A more fatal fault in the eons! ruction of any vessel 
 to be used on lake Erie could not be easily committed, as 
 that of too great draught of water. The harbors arc few, 
 narrow, and difficult to enter, and the intermediate shores 
 dangerous in the extreme. With the exception of the Nia- 
 gara river below Bird island, Put-in-bay in the southern Bass 
 island, and Detroit river, there exists no harbor in lake 
 Erie that can be safely entered in a swelling; sea, with a ves- 
 sel drawing seven feet water. To the number of vessels 
 which are actively employed, I am convinced there are ma- 
 ny more wrecked on lake Erie, than on the coast of the 
 United States, dangerous as is some parts of that coast. 
 Dunkirk is an open harbor, but for suitable vessels can be, 
 except Put-in-bay and Detroit river, most easily entered of 
 any in the lake ; and next to Dunkirk in facility of entrance, 
 are Maumcc and Sandusky, The bays are indeed generally 
 more easy of approach than are the rivers. 
 
 I was much pleased to find that the schooner in which I 
 performed my passage, was to take Maumee bay in its 
 course, as that and Erie were the only places of particular 
 importance, along the United States shore of lake Erie, 
 which I had not visited going up. 
 
ISlTi'JLjLtf. 
 
 [jLKT.. XX3, 
 
 Our vessel fell down Detroit river with a fine light breeze 
 which died si way in I he evening and left us lying quiet most 
 part of the night ; hut on the morning of the 2ilh a light 
 KT. "W. wind sprung up, which increasing with the rise of th$s 
 sun, carried us finely along. 1 had a view* though at a dis- 
 tance, of the mouth of (he rivers Huron and liaisin, the 
 houses of the inhabitants standing like white spots upon the 
 disk of the horizon. Leaving the western Sister a small 
 distance to the east, ahout b o'clock P. M. our little bark 
 was safely at anchor in Maumee hay. 
 
 The whole coast from Ainherstbut g to Maumee is an Tin- 
 deviating flat. Approaching Maumee bay, I sought on all 
 sides for some eminence, or some distant range of hills, Uy 
 break the monotony of the perspective, none such appeared ; 
 one dead uniformity,, one narrow line of woods, or the endless 
 expanse of water marked the horizon. Maumee bay is 
 formed with some resemblance to that of Sandusky, though 
 the former is neither so wide or long as the latter. The 
 Maumee river after tumbling over a ledge of l ocks near Fort 
 Meigs, gains the level of the great alluvial plain, noticed m 
 my last, over which it meanders a few miles, expands to two 
 or three miles wide, and opens into the extreme south-west 
 angle of lake Erie. An island in the form of a crescent, 
 about three-fourths of a mile long, lies very nearly midway 
 between the two exterior capes of ihe bay, of course (wo 
 channels lead into this harbor. Behind the crescent island, 
 vessels And safe shelter and excellent anchorage. I had nm 
 means to measure the exact-distance from the island to the 
 opposing capes, but would judge about three miles, and very 
 nearly a similar distance to a part of the shore to the cast of 
 the mouth of Maumee river. Like most of the harbors of 
 Erie, Maumee has seven feet water on the bars east and west, 
 of the crescent island. Our vessel passed into the bay the 
 west channel, close upon the point of the island, and anchor* 
 ed in the bay formed by its curve. 
 
I ET. XVI .] 
 
 MAi'MEE. 
 
 I landed upon tlie crescent, and found U a beautiful sand 
 bar, about one hundred and fifty yards wide in its broadest 
 part, and covered with dwarf bushes of different kinds,, 
 Near the middle, and consequently widest pat?!, the two sides 
 of ihe island are higher than the center, leaving the latter* a 
 pond of water, in which are growing rushes, and other 
 aquatic plants. Many years past 1 witnessed the gam© 
 feature in the structure of the islands between New- Or- 
 leans and Mobile bay. 1 have in fact found an astonishing 
 resemblance between the appearance of much of the coasl 
 of the Mexican gulf, and the shores of Erie, from Cleveland 
 to Detroit. Crescent island no doubt, like the points which 
 enclose Sandusky bay, has been formed by the meeting of 
 two currents ; it is now an admirable natural mole to se- 
 cure the mouth of Maumee, and forms for the depth of wa- 
 ter, one of the best harbors in this lake of storms. 
 
 As I did not attempt Ho penetrate the country, I remained 
 upon the island and in the ship, whilst our captain went up 
 the Maumee mer to transact his affairs, and on his return 
 left the bay on the 2(Jth. We sailed nearly east, having the 
 coast of Maumee to Sandusky bay on our right, and the 
 Sisters and Bass islands to our left : clearing the narrows 
 between the southern Bass and a cape of tire Sandusky pe- 
 ninsula, vvc veered to the south-east between Cunningham* a 
 island and the eastern extremity of the peninsula* and held 
 upon that course until opposite the mouth of Sandusky hay, 
 we then changed to a little north of east, and having a fine 
 steady south-west breeze, we hove to on the 2ivh nbtftit noon, 
 opposite the month of Ashtabula river, borne of our pas- 
 sengers, beside myself, went on shore : little is here to be 
 seen. Ashtabula is a small and unimportant river, rising 
 about thirty miles from the lake, in the slate of Ohio, giving 
 name to the north east county of that state. Vessels of five 
 feet draughtj of water can enter Ashtabula two or three 
 miles. Only a couple of farm houses can be seen at its 
 mouth, hills appear rising almost from the margin of 
 
21® ERIE. [LET. XVI. 
 
 lake ; here indeed is one of 'the narrowest parts of the Jake 
 Erie alluvial border. Ashtabula enters (he lake obliquely, 
 (lie river running Jo the .north-west, leaving a high sandy 
 point projecting between the river and lake. 
 
 Not liaiing any part icular object .of detention, our ves- 
 sel left Ashtabula at 2 o'clock P. M. and being detained by 
 a calm, did not reach the harbor of Erie before about sun- 
 rise on llie 28th. I liastcd on shore, as I had long desired 
 to see that place. 
 
 The town of Erie, formerly Presque isle, stands at 42» 
 7' N. hit. ,3" 7 ! W. long, from Washington city. r J'hc 
 hank upon which the town is buiW, rests upon an immense 
 schistose mass of rock, surmounted by a stratum of clay, 
 rises in bluff and broken abruptness to the height of SO or 
 -":(> fefet, from whence it sj)reads into a level plain, with no 
 great inclination la any direction. A small drain which 
 traverses the town, has cut a deep ravine, which, near the 
 bay, exposes the solid rock. The main street runs at nearly 
 right angles to the bay shore, a little N. E. of the ravine. 
 So much sameness prevails in all small towns, that little 
 "description suffices to (hose who have seen but a few of such 
 places. Erie, Hke almost all other villages, is composed in 
 great part by one main street built along the principal road 5 
 Erie has, however, some cross streets, upon which are good 
 substantia! buildings. The town has a very neat appearance, 
 saaiiy of the houses are elegant, with trees planted in front. 
 I have seen very few places of its extent, v>hich exhibited so 
 nwuk of the air of a commercial depot. It is the seat of 
 justice for Erie county, has a good substantial court-house 
 and its attendant a jail, many good stores and taverns, 
 blacksmith's, hatter's, shoe-maker's, and laylor's shops. 
 
 Tiie bay or harbor of Erie is formed by the shore, and a 
 long, narrow, low, sandy isthmus, which projects from it two 
 miies south-west from where the village now stands. To- 
 wards its termination the isthmus inclines a little towards the 
 main shore, giving an elliptical form to the bay. The bar 
 
IvET. XVI. 
 
 21 1 
 
 runs out from the isthmus some distance above the point, Unit 
 has barely 7 Riet water. The channel is VCry;tv$miin}£ until 
 about half a mile below tl^e town, w here the water fepens, 
 to twenty feet or more. No winds, except flloisc frfem the 
 north-east could afreet ships at aWhbr in this bay,- and even 
 from that quarter the swell would be broken oft t he hah 
 On all shies it is effectually land locked, The isthmus is 
 not more than four or five feet above the watciy is bvergrowsi 
 With cedar trees, arid cranberry bushes. 
 
 in a cove of the isthmus now lie the hulks of Perry's 
 squadron, and his captured British ships. The Lawrence an (J 
 Niagara now lie very quietly beside the I) droit* (|ueen 
 Charlotte, and Lady Provost. You are no doubt acquainted 
 with the fact, that the strongest part of the squadron was 
 prepared at Erie, which* produced this groat national vic- 
 tory ; the Law rence and Niagara were both built here, and 
 were taken over the bar by a curious contrivance. Tiro 
 captain of the schooner in which I cause from Delrdif, was 
 then (1813) a shipwright, and assisted to transport these ves- 
 sels into the lake, which, as he described the means and pro- 
 cess to me, were the following : Two large fiat's or seows 
 fifty feet long, ten wide, and eight deep were prepared, laid 
 along side one of the vessels, filled with water, and fastened 
 lo each other and to the vessel by large beams of hewn tim- 
 ber run through the port holes ; then the water pumped 
 irons the scows, which, as they became empty, buoyed up tire 
 vessel, and the whole machine rendered capable of passing 
 the bar. By good fortune, the British either could iiotfj or 
 they i\egleeted to oppose this operation, and lost the naval 
 superiority on lake Erie. The same fleet which conquered 
 Barclay's squadron, carried general Harrison's army to t lie 
 city of Detroit, produced the re-eonqucst of Michigan, and 
 the chastisement on the Thames of tiro sanguinary and fe- 
 rocious Proctor, 
 
 A few hours enabled me to sec Erie and its environs, and 
 to leave me at leisure to desire to be again on my way to- 
 
?4* ALEATsi;. [let. XV jk 
 
 wards Buffalo, winch was the case, at alio u( an hour before 
 strn-set of the same day ivc arrived. Nothing worth notiee 
 intervening until the morning of the 30th, (Sunday) I gladly 
 found myself at Mv. isauc Kihhe's tavern in Buffalo. 
 
 One of the fu st pieces of news which reached me on roy 
 arrival, w as* that the table rock at Niagara had fallen a day 
 or two before. This was a projecting shelf of slate rock on 
 the Canada side, where curious visitors went to view the 
 falls. The certainly of its stability had been doubted for 
 some lime past, not without foundation it appears. Fortu- 
 nately it fell whilst no persons were upon it, for if such had 
 been the ease, some amiable human beings would have been 
 plunged to swift destruction. I will be detained here a few 
 days, per haps three or four. I intend to return by the Cher- 
 ry Valley route. Yon w ill hear from me again at Albany. 
 
 Adieu. 
 
 LETTER XVII. 
 
 Jllbamj, September iS 9 ±818. 
 
 pE-iB Sir, 
 
 Aftem a long journey of twenty-one days, I arrived 
 here the day before yesterday from Buffalo \ I left that 
 town on the 27th uSt. and came by the route of Batavia* 
 Canandaigua, Geneva, Aufcurn, Cazenovia, Cherry Valley, 
 nnd Schenectady. Over this tract as far as Geneva I had 
 been before, but from that place to Schenectady, the inter- 
 
CANANDA I G L*A * 
 
 215 
 
 mediate country was new to me, Willi renewed pleasure I 
 i*e-visited Canandaigua, again reviewed (his extraordinary 
 production of a few years past. When passing that village an 
 my way to the westward, I had a letter from governor Clin- 
 ton to Mr. Gideon Granger, who was at that time absent, 
 At the time of my return I was more fortunate ; I found 
 Mr. Granger, and received from that excellent man a recep- 
 tion that, to a stranger, was sincerely gratifying. Mr. 
 Granger's elegant mansion stands upon the highest part of 
 the plain, upon which .Canandaigua is bniit, and adds con- 
 siderably to the decoration of that unequalled village. This 
 expression you may say is extravagant ; it is not, however, in- 
 accurate. Viewed in all respects, I am persuaded that no 
 village in the United States can compare in the beauty, va- 
 riety, and taste of its edifices. The gentle slope cf the 
 ground upon which it is erected, contributes to give full effect 
 to the perspective. The main street is wide, with paved 
 side walks, and planted with trees. Many of the houses are 
 seated at some considerable distance from the street, with 
 wide, well shaded side walks in front. To my eye, (his 
 mode of constructing dwellings in tow ns, villages, and even 
 in cities, has a very pleasing appearance. It gives an air of 
 comfort and quiet — that must always constitute much of the 
 satisfaction we feel, when viewing the dwellings of man. 
 That of Mr. Granger, splendid as it is, gains another inter- 
 est, more gratifying than the mere admiration of architect- 
 ural magnificence ; the generous politeness of its owner* and 
 the friendly deportment of his family. Princely wealth, is 
 here combined with the warmest feelings of hospitality. It 
 is such men, who render the possession of the gifts of for- 
 tune in their hands a public benefit. 
 
 I left Geneva on the afternoon of the 10th, and proceeded 
 down the outlet of the Seneca lake. A water communica- 
 tion with lake Ontario now exists by this route. At Water- 
 loo, five miles from Geneva, the Seneca outlet is obstructed 
 by4al!sj or rather rapids, past which locks have been con- 
 
21* CANANDAIGUA. [l/ftT. XVII. 
 
 si rue ted. Below l.he falls, (he Seneca outlet runs north-east 
 ten nulivs, ;wid joins Cayuga ■ outlet at I lie lower extremity of 
 Cayuga Sake. The united stream winds in a northern direc- 
 tion fiye itlUeSj receives from (he west the Canandaigua out- 
 let. 5 ^ At the junction of those streams it is intended to pass 
 wUh the errand canal. The country near the outlet, between 
 Geneva and Cayuga, is np& so uniformly level as i expected 
 to tlnd ; there is, however, no striking objects of ranch inter- 
 est. The road erosscs the outlet of the falls, and proceeds 
 
 # Facts are daily transpiring which tend to exhibit the rapid 
 improvement of this part of the slate of New-York. The 
 Canandaigua outlet, is like that of Seneca, precipitated oyer 
 ledges of rock. The following extract is interesting, but by no 
 means sufficiently explicit. It is much to be desired, that those 
 who write on statistical subjects, would be more particular in de- 
 scribing local objects. It will be seen by referring to my letter 
 from Canandaigua, that a considerable stream is formed by the 
 junction of Mud creek with the outlet of Canandaigua lake, this 
 stream is now rendered of more importance by the removal, or 
 rather obviating an obstruction in its bed, in the towr/ship cf 
 Galen, Seneca county. 
 
 FHOM THE WATERLOO GAZETTE. 
 
 "NEW LOCK NAVIGATION. 
 
 " Mr. Leavenworth — It is with extreme satisfaction, thai 
 through the medium of your press, I can inform the public, that 
 on the i 9 1 1 1 ult. the first heavy laden boat passed the Lock, lately 
 constructed on the Clyde, near the new milling establishment of 
 the Messrs. De Zong, at the village of Clyde, in the township of 
 Galen. This valuable improvement completes an excellent Dur- 
 ham boat navigation, through perhaps the most fertile sections of 
 Seneca and Ontario counties, for upwards of forty miles west from 
 the Seneca river; and creates an eligible scute for all kinds of 
 hydraulic operations, at a point where it lias hitherto been con- 
 sidered utterly impracticable to raise a sufficient head of water. 
 
 M Besides, it is not the least pleasing reflection, that in the 
 course of a very few years, this stream may become a most im- 
 portant link in the chain of our western inland state navigation. 
 
 u In justice to an undertaking of such magnitude and utility, I 
 am proud to acknowledge the enlerprize of the Messrs. De 
 Zohg, advised and directed by the skill of that able architect, and 
 mill-wright, Mr. James Valentine. May success reward their ef- 
 forts. "A SENECA FARMER." 
 
JGET. XVII.] 
 
 FALL PRE Eg. 
 
 (hence east to Cayuga bridge and Tillage. Tim bridge is, 
 perhaps, (lie longest in the United States, situated at any con- 
 siderable distance fWm the sen hoard ; it exceeds a mile by 
 a small fraction, is foi med of wood, upo:i a frame res&kig 
 upon the bottom of (he lake. The outlets of all (he 
 chain of hakes, of which Cayuga is one, have great sameness. 
 Cayuga is (he longest, and no doubt contains -more water 
 than any of the others 5 Seneca approaches nearest to it in 
 magnitude. 
 
 Fail creek rises in the township of Homer, in Courdant! 
 county, flows souih into Virgil, turns (o (fewest and efrterS 
 Dryden, in Tompkins county, receives a large branch from 
 Locke, in Cayuga, then assumes a south-west course to 
 Ithaca, in Uiysses, where it receives a number of ether 
 streams, and turning abruptly lo the north, suddenly ex- 
 pands into Cayuga lake. The sources of the Fall creek are. 
 very considerably higher than the lake into which their wa- 
 ters are discharged j* this is the ease also, w ith all the tribu- 
 
 * I have inserted the following extract, as it illustrates the 
 structure of the country, and opens to the curious traveller a 
 source of instruction and amusement. The scenery of our 
 country has been too much neglected. Many very interesting 
 objects in the best settled parts of the United States, are scarce- 
 ly known beyond the neighbourhood where they exist. 
 
 " Ithaca, (M Y.) June 10. 
 <l OUR CATARACT. 
 u The numerous and magnificent cataracts in our country, 
 have been themes of wonder and delight, and are considered as 
 a peculiar feature in the physiology of the western part of this 
 state. Niagara has fang been viewed as the greatest natural 
 wonder of the world — and for sublimity and grandeur is doubt- 
 less unrivalled. 
 
 " The falls of the Genesee, the Cohoes, the current on the 
 Black river, have all been noticed by the traveller and journalist. 
 Bijt the falls near this village, which next to the Niagara, do not 
 yield in point of sublimity, beauty i and extent, to any in the 
 state, are scarcely known out of their vicinity. Fall creek, on 
 which our falls are situated, rises in the north east corner of th is 
 county, and, after a course of twenty miles, empties into the head 
 
M(i CAYUGA. [let. xvir. 
 
 tary waters of the other hikes contiguous to Cayuga. The 
 relative size of Seneca ami Cayuga lakes is not materially 
 different, the former is thirty-three and a half miles Jong, 
 from Salubria to Geneva, the flatter thirty-five and a half, 
 from the mouth of Fall creek to that of Seneca outlet ; the 
 widest part of eaeh of these lakes is opposite 1 'omulus, in 
 Seneca county, and is nearly equal, three miles. Both 
 lakes diminish very gradually towards their respective ex- 
 tremities. The advantage of these lakes to the agriculture 
 and commerce of the country in which they are situated is 
 incalculable J and when their outlets are improved in such 
 
 of Cayuga lake. When it arrives within three miles of the Cay- 
 uga lake, the chain of falls commences, and continues with lit- 
 tle interruption, about one mile and a half, when the water is pre- 
 cipitated over the last and grandest fall, to a level with the lake. 
 The whole descent of water in this distance, has been estimated 
 at three, hundred and fifty feet. The view of the precipice from 
 the bridge at the foot of the falls is the most grand and pictu- 
 resque I ever beheld. The water failing nearly perpendicular, 
 from the height of about ninety feet — the steep and craggy banks 
 towering to an ahnost equal height above, and crowned with 
 evergreens, give a wild and romantic effect to the scenery, une- 
 qualled by any thing that can be imagined. After clambering 
 up the rocky banks, another fall presents itself to view, of about 
 half the height — and ten or fifteen rods above this, the stream 
 pitches about forty feet, presenting the form of a half circle, in 
 its descent over the broken and craggy rocks, tumbling and foam- 
 ing with inconceivable velocity. " 
 
 " Ithaca, Sept. 30. 
 a Census of Ithxtca.—X friend has favored us with a census of 
 this vilage taken during the past week. By this it appears, that 
 the village contains a population of 61 1 persons, of which 313 
 are males, and 298 females — 186 are under the age often years ; 
 143 between ten and twenty; 269 between 20 and 45 ; and thir- 
 teen only over forty-five. The buildings are 226 in number, com- 
 prising a church and court-house, 77 dwelling-houses, 4 inns, 19 
 stores, (2 vacant) 7 groceries, 28 mechanic's shops, 8 offices— 
 and out-houses to complete the est i mate. " 
 
 This is the clearest and most satisfactory, of all the recent 
 enumerations of the population of the villages in west New- 
 York, that I have been able to procure. 
 
1ST. XVI I. J SENECA AND OSWEGO RIVERS. 
 
 21T 
 
 a manner as to admit an uninterrupted communication with 
 Seneea river, and ultimately with the grand canal, the whole 
 will present a picture of convenience of intercourse, that 
 may challenge an equal in any part of this earth, so far re- 
 moved from a sea coast. And as if nature intended to lav 
 ish (he richest and most essential of her gifts upon this fa- 
 vored region, salt and gypsum abound. It would in fact be 
 a tedious and useless task, to enumerate a small part of the 
 various advantages possessed by the inhabitants of this sin- 
 gular country. I must draw your attention to some facts, 
 respecting the geology of the region watered by the Seneca 
 and Oswego rivers. The peculiar features of the former 
 stream, will best appear from inspection upon a good map. 
 You will perceive that it is formed in most part by the out- 
 lets which we have been noticing, and that its general course 
 is from west to east, at right angles to these outlets and their 
 parent lakes. The lakes themselves occupy the base of very 
 deep v&liies. On this latter circumstance I had, until this 
 period, very erroneous opinions. I had conceived that 
 i he spaces between the lakes were plains, or at least very 
 little elevated above the surface of the water in the lakes; 
 1 now find that so far from being plains, those intervals are 
 elevated to an astonishing height, from which the streams 
 rush with an impetuosity in proportion to their rapid de- 
 scent. 
 
 Independent of the long ridges which rise between the 
 lakes, another of more elevation winds between the waters 
 of Susquehanna river, and the streams which flow northward 
 towards lake Ontario. In reality the latter ridge is the 
 spine of this country, from which the former diverge like the 
 ribs of an animals. The descent from the parent ridge is 
 very gradual to the southward, but to the northward is 
 abrupt.* How far the peculiar features of the intermediate 
 country will contribute to facilitate or impede the intended 
 
 * ^ee page 136, note upon Internal Improvements. 
 
 Q 
 
218 
 
 AUBURN. 
 
 [LET. XVII,. 
 
 water communication between Susquehanna river and Sene- 
 ca lake, 1 am not prepared to decide. 
 
 I stopped on the morning of the 11th at Auburn. This 
 village has for many reasons become an object of considera- 
 ble attention. It stands upon the outlet of Owasco luke, in 
 the township of Aurelius in Seneca county, upon a bottom 
 or level piece of ground. The village of Auburn is more 
 recent than cither Geneva or Canandaigua, and in point of 
 population, 1 would suppose exceeds the former place.* 
 The country in the vicinity of Auburn seems to be well cul- 
 tivated. The houses in the village are many of them well, 
 and some expensively built ; many good taverns and stores, 
 are interspersed amongst the other buildings. 
 
 The circumstance which contributes most to render Au- 
 burn an object of attention, is that of its being the site of 
 the second penitentiary erected within the state of New- 
 
 u Jahiirn, October 7. 
 
 * u The village of Auburn contains 2047 souls — 64 i males, and 
 423 females — 466 males, and 443 females, under the age of eight- 
 een — free blacks, 35 males, and 29 females — slaves 8 males, and 
 2 females. Whole number of families 294. One Presbyterian 
 church, one Episcopal church, and a house of public worship for 
 the Methodists, a court-house, a county clerk's office, and state 
 prison. 211 dwelling-houses, 12 offices 23 stores, 2 market- 
 houses, 16 groceries, 7\ mechanic's shops, 10 mills, 6 stills, and 
 164 qut-houses, making an aggregate of 525 buildings* 
 
 " Among the 130 labourers on the state prison, 75 are suppos- 
 ed to be transient residents.* 
 
 il It is worthy of remark^ that among a population of 2047, 
 two persons only were confined to their beds. 
 
 " This village contained, in April, 1817, a population of 1506, 
 increase in 17 months, 541." 
 
 The foregoing census is anolher instance of the want of pre- 
 cision in the most necessary details. I cannot avoid expressing 
 a hope, that as public attention seems now turned upon such sub- 
 jects, that more perspicuity will be used than is now frequently 
 the case ; the true benefits of such publications must be lost, in 
 proportion as the subject- matter is unconnected, or inconclusive. 
 
 * We presume it will be understood, that the state prisoners arc not number 
 ff, in our census, 
 
XVII.] 
 
 -SfiESEATEfcB'S. 
 
 219 
 
 York. I went, together with some oilier travellers, to see 
 * his house of punishment, and (bund it a large oblong build- 
 ing, enclosed within a strong stone wall. We were conduct- 
 ed over the building by the keeper. Every necessary atten- 
 tion appears to be paid to the safeguard and health of the 
 convicts. I have always considered that the best lessons 
 that the United States ever gave to the world, was upon the 
 subject of crimes and punishments. 
 
 Between Auburn and the outlet of Skeneateles lake, the 
 country continued to present no very striking changes of 
 scenery, from that between Geneva and Auburn. At the 
 village of Skeneateles, the outlet leaves the lake, and con- 
 tinues to flow northward about fifteen miles* then falls into 
 Seneca river* After crossing the outlet I turned southward 
 &p the iake, The Skeneateles is in form similar to those of 
 Seneca and Cayuga, but of much less extent than either of 
 Ihe latter, being fifteen miles in length, with a medial width 
 of less than one mile* 
 
 The space between Gwaseo and Skeneateles rises rapidly 
 from each lake, to a ridge of at least four hundred feet high* 
 mostly covered with an enormous forest ; some farms are 
 seen, but the greatest part of the surface is yet in woods* 
 East ©f the Skeneateles the country is more improved, but 
 also presents an immense and very much inclined plane* 
 rising gradually from the water. The road winds along 
 Ihis slope, about half way from the lake to the apex of the 
 hills | the farms have a curious aspect when viewed either 
 from above or below the road. The soil is good, but very 
 stony, and in many places must he inconvenient to cultivate* 
 from the very great steepness of its surface. The timber is 
 composed of hemlock, sugar tree, elm, several species of 
 hickory, and oak. The whole country is well supplied with 
 excellent spring water. 
 
 The lower half of Skeneateles lake lies in Onondaga 
 county, and the higher moity forms the demarcation he* 
 
220 
 
 CAZENOVIA. 
 
 [let. xvir 
 
 twccn the township of Scmpronious, in Seneca, and Spaf- 
 ford, in Onondago county. 
 
 I remained the night of the 11th near the head of Skene 
 atelcs, in Spaftbrd, and on the morning of the 12th set out, 
 crossing tire (country towards Otisco Jake. No roads are 
 yet formed in this part of Onondago except the common 
 country roads. I traversed the ridge between the lakes* 
 and found it elevated to an astonishing height, when 
 contrasted with its representation upon a map. Farms che- 
 quer the hill sides in their steepest parts, and spread along 
 the bottoms, in every direction. The settlements are less 
 frequent, and have the appearance of being much more re- 
 cently established, than those to the northward near the 
 great western turnpike. After clambering the Skeneateles 
 and another very high and steep ridge, I found myself upon 
 the Skeneateles turnpike road about two miles above Otisco 
 lake. I found the turnpike leading eastward through the 
 south parts of Onondago and Madison counties. The coun- 
 try improved at every step, though continuing hilly and bro- 
 ken. The weather was dark and gloomy. I felt weary, 
 and for the first time I was seriously indisposed since my 
 leaving New-York. I got to my lodgings, near the church 
 of Cazenovia a little before sun-set, having travelled on foot 
 over a very rough country more than thirty miles. 
 
 Sept. 13th. I found myself considerably refreshed and 
 renewed my journey eastward. The road passes along the 
 dividing ridge between the head waters of the Chenango 
 branch of Susquehanna, and the Chittinengo river flowing 
 north into the Oneida lake. 
 
 At Cazenovia church,* the character of the country is es^ 
 
 * Strangers from the southern and western states are not un- 
 frequently embarrassed when travelling in the state of New- 
 York, and to the eastward of that state, by the common custom 
 of naming the villages from the townships in which they are 
 situated. This is the case with Cazenovia. I did not personal- 
 ly visit the village of that name, but passed through the southern 
 part of the township. The custom of publishing the progressive 
 
LET. XVII.] HAMILTON— -BR00KFIE1D. 221 
 
 scntially different from that westward through Which I hail 
 been (ravelling (he three preceding days. The regular and 
 almost artificial aspect of (he hills and lakes from Geneva 
 to Otiscolake, gradually yielded loa more irregular though 
 still broken country. With the exception of some vallies, 
 which I crossed at nearly right angles, I found no level 
 country between Skeneateles and this city. The many flats, 
 lie upon the head waters of the Chenango, but are mere bot- 
 toms between surrounding Iiiits ;# the soil every where Ter* 
 tile, an * in many places well improved. 
 
 Advancing eastward through Hamilton and Brookfield, 
 forming the south-east angle of Madison county, the face of 
 the country becomes extremely hilly, rocky and generally of 
 recent settlement. I had travelled through no part of the 
 state of New-York,, where the hand of man had made so 
 little change in the primitive rudeness of nature. The road 
 in this quarter crosses the sources of Chenango and Una- 
 dilla rivers; the latter forming the boundary between the 
 southeastern part of Madison and the northwestern of Otsc~ 
 
 population of our new settlements is laudable, but editors of 
 public prints ought to be careful to procure correct data on that 
 subject. I have in this treatise appended as notes, as many of 
 these enumerations as have met my eye relating to places upon, 
 or near the line of my route. 
 
 " Cazenovia. — The village of Cazenovia, in Madison county, 
 New-York, was first settled in May 1793. — In 1806, it had 21*2 
 inhabitants— in 18 10, 440 inhabitants— -and it now contains 
 709 souls. — It has three churches, several manufactories, and 
 all the appendages of a thriving village." 
 
 * While the above notes were in the hands of my printer, I was 
 told that a valley existed, out of which the waters of the Che- 
 nango flowed south, and those of Oneida north, without any ele- 
 vated intervening ground between the sources of these streams, 
 Jf this information is correct, it is of greyt importance, and may 
 ere long lead to the formation of another link in our interior 
 communication. A minute and skillful examination of the in- 
 terlocutory branches of other streams, with those of the Susque- 
 hanna, is really an object of great import in the adjustment of 
 some of the most serious questions in our internal policy, 
 
CHEKltr *V ALLEY* 
 
 [LET. XVII, 
 
 go eouuty. The road keeping so near a dividing ridge, pass- 
 es, I ani inclined to believe, the least attractive parts of Ot- 
 sego, as from every information I received, the average im- 
 provement in this county would very much exceed what 
 A\ould result from an estimate founded upon the part over 
 which I -travelled. 
 
 Rising one hill af(er another, I found myself at about four 
 miles west of Cherry Valley, where I spent the night, ami 
 about two hours before day on the 14th, resumed my journey. 
 During my whole tour, this was the only instance & which 
 I travelled in the night ; the moon shone very clear, and ei- 
 ther from the elevation of the country or the advance of the 
 season, the air was keen $nd sharp, with a white frost, I 
 walked on and passed Cherry Valley before day. I regretted 
 the circumstance, but my mind became daily more anxious 
 to regain my home. I could by the clear moonlight perceive 
 the general aspect of the place. The village is seated be- 
 tween the base of a high and very steep hill, and a smalt 
 creek, the source of a considerable stream, from the unw& 
 of which, that of the village is derived. The. hill, ©r rasher 
 mountain, rises east of the village, and m a part of the same 
 chaiifi which forms the Little Falls in the Molmvk river. Seer& 
 by day light, I have no doubt but that the vicinity of Cherry 
 Valley wmild have a wild and romantic appearance $ to my 
 eye it presented that contrast every where found in New- 
 York, in the towns and villages of ancient date the low 
 Dutch built mansion and the stately modern edifice; 913d al- 
 so like almost all towns laid out by the original settlers of 
 this state, the streets follow the inflections of the roads. In 
 opposition to common opinion, 1 have been led to consider* 
 the right angled mode oflayingout cities as inconvenient ami 
 unnatural, where neither the varieties of the ground or fa- 
 cility of intercourse with contiguous places are consulted. 
 
 The road towards Albany leaves Cherry Valley, winding 
 up the steep ascent of the mountain, for two miles before it 
 attains the summit level. Da v light began to appear over ih% 
 
I*ET. XVII.] 
 
 HILLS AND M01NTA1N>, 
 
 223 
 
 verge of the highest peaks, before I gained the extreme 
 height, anil before reaching the opposite slope, the sua had 
 risen over the valley of the Mohawk. The morning was 
 remarkably clear, and gave to the perspective all its extent, 
 The richly cultivated vale lay before me, scattered peaks of 
 the Cherry valley mountain extended along my right, termi- 
 nated by the bjue apex of the Catsbergs, on my left as far as 
 the eye could reach, arose the broken fragments of the chain 
 through which the Mohawk breaks at the Little Falls. Far 
 distant upon the disk of the horizon, arose the elevated hills 
 of Montgomery county, between the Mohawk and Sacondago 
 rivers. To the eastward towards Schenectady, was spread 
 an endless variety of hill and dale; fields, meadows, orchards, 
 farm-houses, and copses of wood, varied to almost infinity, 
 by the charming irregularity of its features, I gazed upon 
 this truly expansive prospect, and pronounced it by far the 
 finest landscape I had ever seen. There was an extent and 
 striking contrast of parts, that rendered the whole a picture 
 that must attract the entire attention of every beholder. The 
 southern extremity of Herkimer and the southwest angle of 
 Montgomery are the points where the waters of the Susque- 
 hanna make the nearest approach to those of the Mohawk* 
 In the townships of Litchfield and Columbia, in the south- 
 west angle of Herkimer, the sources of the TJnadilla river- 
 rise within eight miles of the banks of the Mohawk at the 
 German Flats. In the townships of Columbia and Warren* 
 are also the extreme north sources of the main branch of 
 the Susquehanna river, which rise within less than ten miles 
 of the Mohawk at the Little Falls. The chain of mountains 
 w hich passes Cherry Valley, and as I have observed forms She 
 Little Falls, leaves Otsego county in the township of Spring- 
 field, and enters Herkimer county dividing the township of 
 "Warren from that of Danube. 
 
 I have observed in my Emigrant's Guide, page 190, that 
 hills and mountains are not only specifically but genetically 
 distinct. It is commonly considered that mountains and hills 
 
HILLS AND MOUNTAINS. 
 
 [LET. Xfil* 
 
 are mere relative terms, but the philosophy of such »n opin- 
 ion is not founded in fact. In the United Slates instances 
 are numerous where the chains of hills and mountains pas& 
 each other at a great diversify of inclination. 1 have al- 
 ready pointed out the remarkable chain of liills which sepa- 
 rate the waters of St. Lawrence from those of the Ohio val- 
 ley. You will perceive, that the same ridge which winds 
 along the south shore of lake Erie, continues through the 
 state of New-York, by an inflected line. This ridge leaves 
 the state of Pennsylvania, in the north-east part of Erie 
 county, and following nearly the general course of lake Erie* 
 and within five or six miles of the shore of that lake, wind& 
 through Chatauque into Cattaraugus county ; then tarns 
 south-east about twenty miles, reaches w ithin ten miles of the 
 bank of Allegany river, at the month of Little Valley creek, 
 Turning to the north-east, through the residue of Cattarau- 
 gus, the ridge enters Allegany county ; upon the west border 
 of the latter county it assumes a south-east direction, be- 
 tween the waters of the Genesee and Allegany rivers, enters 
 Pennsylvania in Potter county, through which it curves, and 
 again enters the state of New-York, in the south-west angle 
 of Steuben county. It then pursues a north-west course^ 
 again enters Allegany county, turning by an elliptical curvo 
 returns into Steuben county near Arkport, and following a 
 north-east direction enters Ontario county in the township of 
 Springwater, but curves rapidly again into Steuben county*, 
 and winding through the latter to the south-east, enters Tioga 
 county discharging to the south-west the creeks of the Conhoc- 
 ton branch of the Susquehanna, and to the north-east streams 
 flowing into Canandaigua, Crooked, and Seneca lakes. Wind- 
 ing along the northern border of Tioga county, through the 
 townships of Catherine, Cayuta, Danby, and Caroline, at- 
 tains the north-east extremity of the county, and turns to tlm 
 north, forming the east border of Tompkins, and the south- 
 east of Cayuga, reaches the head of Skeneateles lake, inilm 
 
XVII.] 
 
 HI VERS AND MOUNTAINS. 
 
 225 
 
 north-west angle of Courtland county ; from the latter place 
 the ridge assumes a course east-north-east to the village of 
 Argos, in Madison county, where it attains its extreme north 
 point. From Argos the course of the ridge is nearly east-* 
 to its intersection with the prolongation of the Oatsbergg, 
 near the village of Cherry Valley. Uninterrupted by the 
 Catsbergs this remarkable ridge continues down the Mo- 
 hawk river, and is gradually lost between Schenectady and 
 Albany. The Schoharie river is the only stream which 
 actually crosses the ridge in all its length. 
 
 It is really an object worthy of great attention, the uni- 
 form character of this singular spine south of lake Erie $ 
 where dividing the Mississippi waters from those of St, 
 Lawrence river ; and where separating the numerous branch- 
 es of the Susquehanna from those of the Mohawk, its fea- 
 tures have a Striking similitude. Sloping imperceptibly to 
 the south, and jailing abruptly to the north, is the peculiar 
 trait in the natural hktory of this ridce. which will have the 
 greatest influence in the operations of human improvement. 
 It may be observed aiso as not the least wonderful trait of 
 this ridge, that it forms a limit between that part of the con- 
 tinent of North America, remarkable for the magnitude 
 and abundance of its lakes, and that part as remarkable for 
 the almost total want of lakes. 
 
 The Mohawk river flows along the eastern part of the 
 ridge we are noticing, at a medium distance, above Schoha- 
 rie river, of from ten to twenty miles. The natural struc- 
 ture of the Mohawk is little less peculiar than the ridge it- 
 self*. Occupying the narrow vale of two exhausted Jakes* 
 this stream rises in the secondary region west of the granit- 
 ic ridges, which form the nueleous of the Allegany moun- 
 tains, with its sources so nearly poised, as to leave the wa- 
 ters at liberty to flow either towards the Hudson or St. Law- 
 vence. Flowing from this table land with a very uniform 
 current, between perfectly alluvial banks, for thirty-five 
 
226 RIVERS AKD MOUNTAINS. [LET. XVli*' 
 
 miles, (he Mohawk meets its first considerable obstruction, 
 by intersecting the Calsbergs at the place now called the 
 Utile Falls. Here the stream pours over a ledge of primi- 
 tive rocks, and enters a region which, in soil, timber and 
 geological structure, differs very essentially from the coub- 
 try west of the Calshergs ; the stream, however, again flows 
 with a very equable current about sixty miles, to the Co- 
 hoes Falls, over which its waters are literally plunged inte 
 the Atlantic tides. You will perceive that the elevation of 
 is lie summit level of the Mohaw k, south of the village of 
 Iloine, follow ing the report of the canal commissioners, page 
 89* *s above tide water in the Hudson river, near Troy, with* 
 in a small fraction of 419 feet. Of this degression 132.85 
 i >et, including the Little Falls, are found between Rome and 
 Schoharie creek, and 286 feet between the latter stream and 
 the level of Hudson river, below the head of tide water. 
 
 The range of the Catsbergs being in some measure an 
 anomaly in our geography, has given rise to. considerable 
 ainluguity in our maps, and are not strictly correct on any 
 representation with winch I am acquainted. The late ex- 
 cellent, and much to be lamented John IL Eddy, left that 
 part of his map of the stale of New-York unfinished at his 
 death. I was employed by Mr. Thomas Eddy, to sketch 
 these mountains, which I did, following the best information 
 1 could procure. I found the Damascus mountain, in Wayne 
 county, Pennsylvania, marked upon Mr. Eddy's map ; but 
 10 the east of the O^checton Falls, in the Delaware, the 
 map was a blank, as respects the very distinctive chain 
 which forms those falls. 1 sketched the mountain ridge 
 which winds from the Cochection Fall, through Susquehan- 
 na and TJister, to the borders of Greene county, in the 
 state of New-York, and which, in the latter county, rises 
 into the remarkable Catsbcrgs, whose conic summits have 
 so fine an aspect, seen from the Hudson river. The center 
 <>f Greene county is formed by a curve of this chain, out of 
 ^hich flow the sources of the Schoharie, Viewing a map 
 
JLKT. XVII.] Ill VERS AND MOUNTAINS, 
 
 of this part of the state of New-York, it would appear that 
 the sources of the Schoharie ought to flow into the Papac~ 
 ton branch of the Delaware river ; but after pursuing a> 
 north-west direction, within the curve of the mountains, the 
 various branches of Schoharie unite in the township of 
 Windham, and entering the southern angle of Schoharie 
 county, pierces the Catsbergs, and assuming a northerly 
 course, crosses Schoharie and part of Montgomery coun- 
 ties, falls into the Mohawk river opposite Tripe's hill.— 
 The origin and course of the Schoharie river, very re- 
 markably exemplify the little influence of the moun- 
 tains of the United States upon the direction of the 
 streams. No part of the valley of the Schoharie is less 
 than 286 feet, and its sources are 2,800 or 2000 feet 
 above tide water in Hudson river. The country watered by 
 this small but beautiful river, below its passage through the 
 Catsbergs, is amongst the most charming regions of the 
 United States. I passed through the townships of Caimjo-? 
 harie and Charlestown, in Montgomery, and Buanesburg 
 and Princeton, in Schenectady county, and found the country 
 on both sides of the road well cultivated, and extremely 
 pleasing to the eye. If any part of this region deserves 4 
 preference in soil, variety of site, and general improvement^ 
 it is that near the Schoharie river. 
 
 Entering Schenectady county, the country insensibly dete- 
 riorates both in soil and cultivation, and contrary to hat 
 might be expected, the approach to Albany is over a tract of 
 land, in great part in a state of nature, covered with a for- 
 est of evergreen trees, growing in a loose, sandy soil. Nor- 
 man's Kill rises in Schenectady county, and flowing south- 
 east falls into the Hudson river below Albany. The country 
 watered by this creek is mostly broken, rocky, and along the 
 stream often precipitous, giving to the traveller a striking 
 contrast to the fine region along the Mohawk. 
 
 Drenched by a heavy rain I arrived in Albany, Tuesday, 
 Sept. 15th, 131 days from my departure from that city, I 
 
228 
 
 ALBANY. 
 
 [LET* XVIi. 
 
 have now, strictly speaking, closed my lour ; (he remaining 
 part of (he distance I have to pass over in order (o return 
 home, is (oo well known to you (o render any tardier ob- 
 servations necessary. Yon will see me in New-York in a 
 few days. I expect (o remain in (his city (hree or four days, 
 in the mean time 
 
 Adjm 
 
ADDENDA* 
 
 NO. ft 
 
 EXTRACTS FROM BOUCHETTE-'S CANADA. 
 
 u IN forming the plan of government for Canada, the general 
 principles of tire English constitution were introduced, wherever 
 it was practicable: in the Upper Province no impediments to 
 this course of proceeding were met with; but in the Lower one 
 some small deviations from them were found necessary, in order 
 to reconcile it to the genius of a people so long accustomed to a 
 different regime. The civil department is administered by a go- 
 vernor, who is generally a military officer and commander of the 
 forces, a lieutenant governor, an executive council, a legislative 
 council, and a house of assembly, or the representatives of the 
 people. The governor and lieutenant governor naturally exer- 
 cise their authority under the royal commission. The members of 
 the executive council, amounting to seventeen, derive their appoint- 
 ment from the king, and this body exercises a direction over the con- 
 cerns of the province, nearly similar to that of the pri vy 'council 
 in the affairs of England. The legislative council, by the act of 
 the constitution, consists of fifteen members, (although at present 
 that number is increased,) atl of whom are appointed by man- 
 damus from the king, and may be termed the second estate of the 
 province; and, with the third branch or house of assembly, forms 
 the provincial parliament. The governor is invested with power 
 to prorogue,, and in the exercise of his own discretion, to dissolve 
 
U feOtTCIIETTES CANADA. f ADD JEN 13 A ftd. I 
 
 tlie parliament ; lo give the royal assent or refusal to bills passed 
 by it, or to reserve them in case of doubt or difficulty, until his 
 majesty's pleasure be known thereon. Such acts as receive the 
 governor's assent are usually put in immediate force, but he is 
 enjoined to have copies of them transmitted to England, that 
 they may receive the approbation of the king in council, and his 
 majesty has the right, with the advice of his council, to cancel 
 any act so passed by the provincial parliament within two years 
 from the date of its arrival in England: but hitherto its wisdom 
 has been so well directed, in the arduous task of legislating, that 
 there is no instance on record, of this prerogative ever having 
 been exercised. The acts that emanate from the provincial par- 
 liament, are all of a local nature, such, for instance, as provid- 
 ing for the internal regulation of the country, through the vari- 
 ous departments ; for its defence, as far as relates to enrolling 
 and embodying the militia ; and imposing taxes for raising the 
 necessary supplies, to defray the expences of government. But 
 an}^ acts, having for their object the alteration, or repeal of any 
 laws existing antecedent to the constitution granted in 1791 ; the 
 tithes ; grants of land for the maintenance of the Protestant 
 clergy ; the rights of presentation to rectories, or the endowments 
 of parsonages ; whatever relates to the exercise of religious 
 worship, or disqualification of religious tenets; the rights of the 
 clergy; to changes or modifications of the discipline of the 
 church of England; or of the royal prerogative on the subject 
 of waste crown lands, must, after having passed the provincial 
 parliament, be submitted to the British parliament, and receive 
 the royal assent before they can pass into laws. The house of 
 assembly is composed of fifty-two members, and is a model,, on 
 & small scale, of the house of commons of the imperial parlia- 
 ment ; the representatives are extensive proprietors of land, and 
 are elected for the districts and counties, by the votes of persons 
 being actual possessors of landed property, of at least forty shil- 
 lings clear annual value : for the city of Quebec and the towns, 
 they arc chosen by voters, who must be possessed of a dwelling- 
 house and piece of ground, of not less annual value than five 
 pounds sterling, or else have been domiciliated in the place for 
 one year previous to the writ of summons issuing, and have paid 
 one year's rent, not under ten pounds sterling, for a house or 
 
-ADDENDA fco. f.J 
 
 BOUCHETTE*S CANADA 
 
 • ; * 
 it 
 
 lodging. There exists no disqualification either for the electors 
 or elected on account of religious tenets, for, in this country, 
 where toleration reigns in its plenitude, every one, whatever 
 may be his faith, is eligible to fill any office Or employ, provided 
 the other qualifications required by law are not wanting. The 
 sittings of the house begin in January, and all the public and 
 private business is usually gone through by the latter end of 
 March, about which time it is prorogued, so that the session ne- 
 ver exceeds the term of three months, between January and 
 April. Should parliament not be dissolved by the governor, a, 
 circumstance that, indeed, very seldom occurs, its duration is li- 
 mited by the act of the constitution to the period of four years, 
 when its functi6ns expire, and writs are immediately issued for 
 the election of another. At such a crisis the independence and 
 energy of the various voters, the professions and humility of the 
 candidates, are as strikingly pourtrayed as in the more turbulent 
 contents, that take place on similar occasions in the country. 
 
 " The criminal code of the United Kingdom extends to Canada* 
 and is carried into effect without the slightest variation. For the 
 administration of civil justice, there is a court of appeal, in which 
 the governor presides, assisted by the lieutenant governor, not 
 less than five members of the executive council, and such of the 
 principal law officers, as have not had cognizance of the previ- 
 ous trial; against the decisions of this court, as a final resource, 
 an appeal may be made to the king in council. A court of king's 
 bench, a court of common pleas, with each a chief justice, and 
 three puisne judges. Quarter sessions of the peace held four 
 times a year, besides a police and subordinate niagisliature for 
 determining affairs of minor importance. 
 
 " By far the largest portion of inhabitants* are descended from 
 French ancestors, the reader will readily surmise that the pre- 
 vailing religion is Roman Catholic; of this persuasion, there is a 
 Bishop of Quebec, a coadjutor with the title of Bishop of Salde. 
 nine Vicars General, and about two hundred curates, and mis- 
 sionaries spread over the different districts of the province, by 
 whom the tenets of their religion are inculcated with assiduity 
 
 * Only correct as respects Lower Canada, t-;* fact is the con- 
 trary in the bp per Province. 
 
* V BOUCHETTE's CANADA. [ADDENDA AO. S. 
 
 and devotion, W little tinctured with bigotry or intolerance, un- 
 happily so frequently characteristic of the same faith in the old 
 world. Exercising their sacred functions under the auspices of a 
 Protestant government, they feel the value of mildness in their 
 own conduct, and strenuously endeavor to repay its protecting 
 power by a zealous performance of their duties, and by instilling 
 into the minds of their flock, a grateful obedience to the laws, 
 with a reverence for the constitution, as well as the obligations* 
 imposed upon them in their character of good citizens. They 
 are also chiefly employed in the important cares of education, oi 
 which they acquit themselves in a manner that reflects the high- 
 est credit upon their exertions. To this fact the seminaries of 
 Quebec and Montreal, and the college of Nicolet, bear a power- 
 ful testimony. In these establishments, where the higher and 
 more abstruse sciences yield to those of more extended and pri- 
 mary utility; professors are employed to teach the various bran- 
 ches of the classics, mathematics, and belles-lettres, whose learn- 
 ing would acquire them reputation in any country. In commu- 
 nicating their instructions, the French idiom is in general use, but 
 in the college there is a professor of the English tongue, an exam- 
 ple worthy of being followed by the two former, as this language 
 now becomes an essential part of youthful studies. The reve- 
 nues of the Catholic clergy are derived from grants of land made 
 to them under the ancient regime, and the usual contributions 
 ordained by their ecclesiastical government, which are, perhaps, 
 more cheerfully paid by the Canadians, and collected in a man- 
 ner much freer from vexatious exactions than in any country 
 whatever. 
 
 u The spiritual concerns of the Protestant part of the commu- 
 nity arc under the guidance of the Lord Bishop of Quebec, nine 
 rectors, and a competent number of other clergymen, who are 
 supported by annual stipends from the government, by the ap- 
 propriation of all granted lands as provided for in the act of the 
 constitution, and" the other sources of revenue peculiar to the 
 church of England. In a degree of moderate affluence, exempt 
 on the one hand from inordinate impropriation, and on the other 
 from penurious parsimony ; thereby giving to the clerical order> 
 the degree of consequence in the superior ranks of society that is 
 due to its ministry. 
 
NO. I.] 
 
 BQUCIIETTE's CANADA,. 
 
 V 
 
 11 In the unrestrained exercise of two systems of divine worship 
 so widely differing in l\.e\v tenets, \t is s\ pleasing fact, that the 
 discipline of the two churches never encounters \hc smallest oh 
 struct* oil from each other ; on the contrary, the greatest goooV 
 will antl harmony is observed to pievail, as well between the nas- 
 loss, ias flocks com milted to J heir charge. 
 
 u For the defence of the two Canadas, a regular military esta- 
 blishment is maintained by the British government, which, in 
 time of peace, may amount to about six or seven thousaud men, 
 including artillery, engineers, commissariat, &c. Out when we 
 nve at war with the United States, this force is increased as the 
 pressure of circumstances demands; ami at t|)|s period, (18 15) 
 I may venture to compute i4, although without official documents, 
 lb fix the the precise numerical strength, at from twenty-seven to 
 thirty thousand men in both provinces. In aid of the regular 
 troops, and in order that, under any exigency, the government 
 may be enabled to bring a sufficient force jjnjo the field, the low- 
 er province is apportioned into fifty-two' divisions, wherein all 
 males from fifteen to sixty years of age, ar$ bound by law to en- 
 roll their names every year, with the captains of companies ap* 
 pointed for their parish, within the month of April. After the 
 tmrohireni is completed, they are mustered four times in a year, 
 either on Sotidays or holidays, when they are instructed in as 
 much of the rudiments of military exercise as the occasion will 
 allow; besides these four muster days, they are once in each 
 year, reviewed by the commander in chief, or the officer com- 
 maiding the division. This is denominated the sedentary mili- 
 tia; and as the average strength of each division so enrolled, 
 may be computed about a thousand, it makes the aggregate 
 amount upwards of 52,000 men.* The incorporated militia, by 
 an act passed in the provincial parliament on the 19th of May, 
 1 812, is fixed during the war, at two thousand men ; but by virtus 
 of authority vested in the governor, it is at present increased' tp 
 five battalions, or nearly double the number, which, on the re-esr 
 tablishment of peace with th^ United States, will be reduced to 
 the standard named in the act. This body is chosen by ballot 
 from the unmarried men of the sedentary militia; its term of 
 
 * In the Lower Province onlv. 
 
B 0 UC HE TTE *S CANADA. 
 
 [ADDENDA SO. I 
 
 Service is two years. It is also provided that one half of each 
 regiment may be discharged annually, and the vacancies filled 
 up by a fresh ballot ; a plan that will have the good effect of ex- 
 tending gradually a certain degree of military discipline over the 
 greater part of the population capable of bearing arms. The 
 battalions thus formed of single men, renders the military ser- 
 vice le& obnoxious to the individual, and less expensive to the 
 state, by saving the provision otherwise necessary to be made for 
 wives and children of militiamen actually embodied. By the 
 same. act, the sum of twelve thousand pounds annually is raised 
 for the maintenance of this constitutional force. The incorpo- 
 rated militia is weir equipped and in a state of discipline that 
 merits the highest commendations, by which it has been able to 
 brigade with the regular troops during the existing contest, and 
 to take so distinguished a part in some of the actions fought, that 
 it must press upon the consideration of government, a firm reli- 
 ance upon its future exertions, and devotedness in the cause of 
 its country. 
 
 " In the Upper Province, the same system, with some trifling 
 modification, prevails, but from the more scanty population the 
 force is proportionably much less; however, the militia of Upper 
 Canada had its full share of the hardships of the war, as well a* 
 many opportunities of distinguishing itself in presence of the ene- 
 my ; and the real magnitude of its service may be estimated, 
 when it is considered, that, by availing himself of it, the gover- 
 nor general, Sir George Prevost, was enabled with a number of 
 troops of the line, inadequate according to usual military calcu- 
 lations, not only to repel every attempt of the American com- 
 manders to invade the British territory, in the years 1813 and 
 18 14, but to overwhelm the assailants with defeats, that for a long 
 time will leave an indelible sFain upon thei/ military reputa- 
 tion." 
 
 Geographical Description of the Province of Lower Canada, 
 with remarks upon Upper Canada. — London y 1815. Bif 
 Joseph Bouchette. Page 15 — 24*.] 
 
 + 
 
ADDENDA NO. 1.] 
 
 BDUCIIETTE's CANADA. 
 
 " AMERICA possesses a climate peculiar to itself ; the quantity 
 and prevalence of heat and cold, seems to be governed by laws 
 materially differing from those that regulate the temperature of 
 other parts of the earth. It is certain that a person would be 
 materially led astray, were he to form an opinion of the tempe- 
 rature of Canada from the analogy of local situation ; it lies, for 
 instance, in the same parallel of latitude as France, but instead 
 &f exhaling the exquisite fragrance of flowers, and ripening de- 
 dicate fruit?, delicious excellence, as is the case in that country, 
 its surface is covered with accumulated snows for nearly one half 
 Of the year, and vegetation is suspended for nearly the same 
 period by continued frost. Yet this circumstance is ^unattended 
 with so much rigor as any one would be disposed to su spec t, and 
 notwithstanding the apparent severity, Canada enjoys a climate 
 that is congenial to health in an eminent degree, and highly con- 
 duces to fertilize its soil. Heat and cold are certainly to ex- 
 tremes ; the latter both for duration and intensity by far the most 
 predominant, is supposed to derive much of its force ; from the fol- 
 lowing cause, viz. the land stretches from the St. Lawrence to- 
 wards the north pole, which it approaches much nearer to, anfc! 
 with a less intervention of sea, than that on the old continent % 
 it expands also an immense distance to the westward \ therefore^ 
 the winds between the north-east and north*west passing over a 
 less surface of water than in the same portion of the other he- 
 misphere, are consequently divested of a similar quantity of their 
 hi tense frigor, and afterwards sweeping across the immense chain 
 of mountains, covered with perpetual snows and ice that intersects 
 the whole of these cheerless regions, they acquire a penetrating 
 severity, by traversing so vast a tract of frozen ground, that even 
 Mieir progress into lower latitudes, cannot disarm them of. Of 
 these winds the north-west is the most rigorous $* and even in 
 summer, as soon as it prevails, the transition from heat to cold is 
 so sudden, that the thermometer has been known to fall nearly 
 thirty degrees in a very few hours. The highest range of the 
 
 * This is also the case in all parts of North America, east of 
 the Chippewan mountains; the frigid influence of the north-west 
 current of air is severely felt upon the shores of the gulf of Mexi- 
 co. ...Upon 'the Atlantic slope, east of the Allegany chain, the 
 muds from the northwest are peculiarly piercingly cold. 
 
VUl 
 
 BOUfcllETTE S CANADA, 
 
 (^ADDENDA XO. f\ 
 
 summer heat, is usually between 96 and 102 degrees of Fahren- 
 heit f 1 but an atmosphere particularly pure, abates the oppressive 
 fervor felt in other parts at the same point. In winter the mer- 
 cury sometimes sinks to 31 degrees below zero, but this must be 
 considered its very greatest depression, and as happening only 
 once or twice in a season, or perhaps not more than thrice in 
 two seasons, and then its continuance rarely exceeds forty-eight 
 hours; but the general range of cold in medium years, may be 
 estimated from twenty degrees above, to twenty-five degrees be- 
 low zero. The frost which is seldom interrupted during the win- 
 ter, is almost always accompanied with a cloudless sky, and pure 
 dry air that makes it both pleasant and healthy, and considera- 
 bly diminishes the piercing quality it possesses when the atmos- 
 phere is loaded with vapours. At the eastern extremity of the 
 province, from its vicinity to the sea, fogs are brought on by an 
 easterly wind, but to the westward they seldom prevail, and even 
 at Quebec are almost unknown. The snow usually lies on the 
 ground until the latter end of April, when it is melted by the 
 powerful rays of the sun, rather than dissolved by the progress of 
 thaw, the air still continuing pure and frosty; when it has disap- 
 peared, the spring may be said to commence ; and as the ground 
 being protected by so thick a covering during winter, is seldom 
 frozen many inches deep, the powers of vegetation almost imme- 
 diately resume their activity, and bring on the fine sea- 
 son, that would excite in a stranger to the country the 
 greatest degree of astonishment. Rain prevails most in the 
 spring and fall of the year,f but is seldom violent or. 
 
 * If the thermometer of Fahrenheit ranges in Canada, in 
 summer, between 96 and 102, the intensity of Canadian heat is 
 greater than in Louisiana ; I never was made acquainted with a 
 higher range of the thermometer in New-Orleans, when proper- 
 ly placed, than 94 Q , 
 
 f Taken in the sense understood by Mr. Bouchette, when he 
 wrote the above expression, the same observation would apply 
 with equal force to all those parts of North America, included in 
 the Canadas and United States. But, in reality," the rainy season 
 of all these vast regions actually commences about the beginning 
 of November, and continues until the latter end of April. Snow- 
 is only water in a state of congelation; and in fact that element 
 falls from the clouds in all states, between complete fluidity, tQ 
 that of the most solid ice. It is therefore, unfounded in princt- 
 
ADBENBA NO. l.j BOUCHETTX's CANADA, 
 
 of long duration in the level parts of the province. Towards the 
 mountains, however, their frequency, and duration are both in- 
 creased. Borderiug on the gulf of St. Lawrence, as the face of 
 the soil is rugged and mountainous, the climate somewhat influ- 
 enced thereby, participates in its ungenial nature ; but advanc- 
 ing to tiie westward, it becomes more mild, and encourages the 
 resumption of agricultural labours at a much earlier period, par- 
 ticularly in ihe western district of the Lower, and all the settled 
 parts of the Upper Province ; at Montreal, for instance, only 79 
 geographical miles south ward, aad 145 miles due west from the 
 meridian of Quebec, the spring is reckoned to commence from 
 five to six weeks earlier than at the latter place. Vegetation is 
 proportionately more luxuriant and vigorous, producing crops of 
 greater increase, by seldom experiencing checks in their early 
 stages from the hoar frost, so injurious to the rising growth where- 
 ever it prevails. In a comparison between the climates of Great 
 Britain and the Canadas, some advantages result to the latter, be- 
 cause the prevalence of fine clear weather, and a pure atmos- 
 phere greatly exceeds that in the former; besides, the degree of 
 cold is proved by actual experiment, not to be proportionate to the 
 indication of the thermometer; as a corroborating instance, it is 
 remarked, lit Its utmost severity, which is in the months of Janu- 
 ary and February, the labour of artisans in out-door employments 
 is rarely suspended many days in succession. 
 
 « From the climate of a country, its soil comes under notice 
 by a sort of natural transition. On making a calculation of the 
 superficial eon tents of the area, enclosed between the two 
 principal ranges of mountains before spoken of, about 16, 
 u23-,000 square acres may be computed, to include the great- 
 er part of live land in the Lower Province yet surveyed, that 
 is capable of 4>eing turned to any favorable account in an 
 agricultural point of view.. In so great an extent, undoubt- 
 edly every gradation of quality, between very bad and very 
 good is to be found; but it would be attended with some dif- 
 
 ples of true meteorological philosophy to call spring and autumn 
 our rainy seasons. In all places where winter is of : sufficient 
 length and frigidity to permit considerable accumulation of snow, 
 ihe^spring floods in rivers, owe their augmentation /more to the 
 melting of that meteor, than to the rain tlrat falls -dn riii g #e vim 
 sjjjf the waters. 
 
 R3 
 
s 
 
 £0U€HETTE 5 S CANADA. 
 
 [addenda ko. « 
 
 ficulty, to state with tolerable correctness the relative proportion 
 of each kind. Sensible that ? in thus gene ralizing the whole, oh;1j 
 an imperfect sketch can be given, it is my intention that as mmh 
 care as possible shall be used to render the subject more clear and 
 familiar, when treating the different districts and divisions topo- 
 graphically. For the present then, it may suffice to say, that? 
 with respect to goodness, the eastern parts are inferior to the 
 western, being of a more irregular and uneven surface, m many 
 places consisting of a light soil, of a sandy nature, laid upon s& 
 stratum of perfect sand or gravel, in others it is varied with mix- 
 tures of clay, loam, and sometimes a good vegetable mould upsm 
 tgk reddssli argillaceous bottom, constituting a medium between the 
 two extremes; this latter species is rather supposed to exceed the 
 inferior classes m quantity, and with a moderate degree of care- 
 ful husbandry will yield the farmer pretty fair returns. In the 
 western part of the province, although the variety is nearly a$ 
 great as in the other, in its nature it is very superior ; the sort 
 most esteemed, is a composition of fine rich loams, both a yellow 
 and bluish colour, with a good black earth, forming a soil, that ire 
 the country is supposed to, be endued with the greatest share" of 
 fertilizing properties of any of the natural classes > and of this 
 $ort consists the chief portion of^aml ii\ the western division ; the 
 remaining pari is always above mediocrity $ in fae£, it may h& 
 fairly asserted, that through the whole of North America, and in- 
 deed in many other countries, it will |>e difficult to meet with land 
 more inviting to form new settlements upon, or where.it is alrea- 
 dy cultivated, capable of being made more generous and produce 
 five, by the introduction of an improved system of husbandry*. 
 Its superiority over the contiguous districts of the United States 
 is fully manifest, by the readiness with which American families 
 m considerable numbers, have for years past, abandoned the less 
 fertile fields of their nativity, to settle upon a soil that they are 
 certain will abundantly repay the industry and art bestowed upon* 
 it. Undoubtedly the burthen ®€ the taxes and peculiar laws will 
 have had some share in causing these migrations across the bor- 
 ders, into a country where neither would be felt. But be this as 
 it may, many farmers thus changing the scene of their labours, 
 have, either by purchase or by lease, obtained extensive estates 
 and endenizened themselves under the British government ; wl^tel 
 
'A5D2XDA NO. I.J BOUCHETTE's CANADA. X i 
 
 others, as eager to enjoy the same advantages, but less honest in 
 their manner of obtaining them, have selected convenient situa- 
 tions among the reserved lands, wherein they have unceremoni- 
 ously domiciliated without license or title; and even without the 
 acknowledgement of rent, have continued to cultivate and inn 
 prove their favorite spots thus chosen.* 
 
 " This species of tenure certainly ought not to be allowed by 
 the crown, and means should undoubtedly be taken to eject such 
 tenants, because their prior occupancy, the irregularity of its be* 
 ing generally unknown, deprive^s4he natural subject of taking the 
 lots upon the terms before recited. It is also desirable not to 
 permit the pernicious example of such unauthorised possession of 
 valuable property to -communicate its influence, or, indeed, to ex* 
 ist at all. It is much to be wished, that the system of manage- 
 ment in Lower Canada was as good as the land, upon which it is 
 exercised ; agricultural riches would then flow in a copious and 
 inexhaustible stream ; for if the natural excellence of soil and 
 goodness of climate, contending against the disadvantages of a 
 very inferior, not to say bad mode of husbandry, be capable of 
 
 * How far a disaffected citizen of the United States, is qualifi- 
 ed to make a good British subject in Canada, I am unable to de- 
 termine. Where Mr. Couchette is uninfluenced by national or. 
 political prejudices, he is a respectable writer ; but when descant- 
 ing upon any subject relating to the United States, he evinces 
 more than the mere partiality of an Englishman. My opinion 
 lias been given in the text, that iu no part of his Britannic ma- 
 jesty's dominions, except India, are to be found so many persons 
 in proportion to given uumbers, averse to the people and govern- 
 ment of the United States, as in the two Canadas, New-Bruns- 
 wick, and Nova Scotia. Great moral change in public feeling 
 must take place, before the inhabitants of these provinces can 
 relish our institutions. Wise and reflecting men in the British 
 North American possessions, would, to avoid a frequent recurring 
 border warfare, an evil they have experienced, consent if all cir- 
 cumstances were favorable to a separation from Great Britain; 
 but would very reluctantly be amalgamated into the Union of the 
 States. Indeed without violent and repeated infractions upon 
 their personal rights, the people of Canada will long remaiu as 
 ihey now are, sincerely attached to the government of the parent 
 state. It was such infractions pertinaciously continued, that 
 produced the United States; let England profit by the folly and 
 crimes of her former rulers* 
 
Xit BOUCHETTJe's CAXADA, [ADBtfN#A x&A>. 
 
 yielding crops of 15 to 18 to one, what might not be expected 
 from it, weie the modern improvement in implements as well a* 
 culture, that have been introduced with so much benefit in Eng- 
 land, to be applied to it? The Canadian farmer unfortunately 
 and it is a subject much to fcc lamented* has hitherto had wj 
 means of acquiring instruction, m the many new and beneficial 
 methods, by which modern science has so greatly assisted the la- 
 bors of the husbandman. Unskilled in any other mode, he con- 
 tinues to till his fields by the same rule that his forefathers follow- 
 ed for many generations^ which long habit and au unprofitable 
 partiality engrafted thereon, seems to have endeaied to him ^ 
 knowing the natural bounty cf his land, he places his greatest re- 
 liance upon it, and feels satisfied when he reaps a crop not infe- 
 rior to that of the year gone by, apparently without a wish to in- 
 crease his stores by the adoption of untried means. .Apprehen- 
 sions of failure aiid consequent loss, operate more strongly than 
 disinclination, for a desire to enlarge his profits is full as lively hi 
 him as in other men, which) aided by a genius active in imitating^ 
 would certainly impel him to try his success at any innovation,, 
 productive of corresponding advantages, that might be introduc- 
 ed by another. Example is the only stimulus required, and H is 
 well worth the attention of those to whom the welfare of the Bri- 
 tish colonies is confided, and who must be sensible of the import- 
 ance of this one in particular, to consider of means by w hie h tin's 
 stimulus could be most effectually excited. Whatever encourage- 
 ment might be given as an incentive to the industry cf the native) 
 or the alien settler, to persevere in an approved phn of clearrng > 
 draining, and getting under cultivation the new lands, or of 
 provement ujpon such as are already under management, by a re- 
 form of the present system, a judicious variation of crops, ami 
 the introduction of neiv articles suitable to the? climate, of winds 
 there are many> would be attended with so much benefit that in a 
 very few years these provinces must become one of the most va- 
 luable of all the exterior possessions of Great Britain. 
 
 44 The practice of husbandry in Canada is defective m some 
 very principal points: in the tirst place the use of the plough, 
 which ought to be viewed as the base of all agrarian improve- 
 ment, is not enough attended to, and where it is applied, it is 
 •done in a manner so inadequate to the purpose, that the^ood hv : 
 
*uWexda no. t§ 
 
 COUCHETTE 5 S HA^AVA. 
 
 xiu 
 
 tended to be derived from it, is powerfully counteracted ; general - 
 ly speaking, this operation is performed so light ly, that scared) 
 more than the surface of the ground is broken by it ; the weeds 
 that ought to be extirpated are only cut off, they consequently 
 shoot out again and absorb much of the vigor of the soil, that 
 otherwise would nourish the seed and plants committed to it. If 
 the Canadian husbandman could witness the difference between 
 the style of ploughing in England and his own, I am certain that 
 he would readily be convinced of its utility., and willing to adopt 
 a method so much in favor of his autumnal expectations. Ano- 
 ther main object in farming improvements, is, the judicious ap- 
 plication of the various manures to different soils, in which es- 
 sential particular it must be admitted the Canadian practice |» 
 much in arrear, as it is only within a few years, and in the neigh- 
 bourhood of the huge towns, that it has in some degree been at- 
 tended to by a few farmers more intelligent than their brethren ^ 
 this neglect, added to the pernicious practice of sowing the saint; 
 sort of s rain year after year, upon the same laud, without other 
 means of renovation than letting it lie fallow for a season, must 
 excite wonder that it should produce such crops as it actually 
 does. When the' heart of the land is supposed to be gone, or 
 greatly deteriorated, the remedy is, after taking a crop of wheat 
 from it, to allow a natural layer of clover and grass, which serves 
 as summer feed for cattle. In autumn it receives a ploughing in 
 the usual way, and in tho ensuing spring is again put under wheat 
 t)r oats. This plan is unprofitable and injudicious, the stock de- 
 rives but little advantage from the herbage, while with a little 
 more care the grounds might be turned to much better account. 
 The introd notion of -different kinds of grasses and other succu- 
 lents, regulated by a moderate degree of skill, could not fail be- 
 ing attended with complete success. Among the various serts, 
 the English red, and Dutch wl-nte clover are worthy of notice^ 
 being calculated as well for summer teed as excellent winter store. 
 To these might be added the yellow Swedish turnip, a species per- 
 haps superior to any other of its class, as it will endure the mcst 
 violent frost, and maintains its goodness unt'il the spring, as well 
 as in autumn : that the acquisition of such a plant to a country 
 always subject to a long winter would soon become valuable, does 
 not admit of a questioii. Ills entitled to the farmer's attention, 
 
X,V - BOtl HETTE'S CANADA. ^ADDENDA NO, li 
 
 as beh*g a profitable article; from 20 to 25 tons per acre may be 
 raised by careful management, which if housed before winter sets 
 in, would furnish an undeniable food for cattle during that season ; 
 by its means he would obtain a beneficial employment in fatten- 
 ing his stock intended for market, and also a large quantity of va^ 
 luable manure from his farm-yard, ready to be applied to the 
 poor and exhausted lands at the breaking up of the frost. Many 
 other advantages would be the result, if a systematic arrange- 
 ment in the change of crops were to take place of the undeviat- 
 Ing practice at present existing; by it a great progress would be 
 made in the science of agriculture, and a long catalogue of he- 
 reditary errors, wuuld no more remain unopposed by any radical 
 improvement. I must again repeat, that example only is wanting 
 to induce the Canadian farmers to explode the unproductive me- 
 thods they have so long followed, and yield ta the admission of 
 profitable innovations. There is yet another article or two of 
 culture of the very first importance to the mother country, which 
 would most certainly prove highly beneficial to these provinces if 
 sufficient attention were to be paid to them. The first of these 
 is hemp, well known to be a native plant of the country, with 
 climate and soil peculiarly well adapted fo its growth ; in small 
 quantities it has bce ( n raised on many farms, though as an object 
 of commerce, the cultivation of it has not been attended with 
 success, notwithstanding it has been tried under the sanction of 
 government, that held out the encouragement of premiums, with 
 the additional inducement of a certain good price, per ton for all 
 such as might be produced fit for its purposes; as so desirable an 
 object hath not been accomplished under these circumstances, ii 
 would seem to imply that some insurmountable obstacle opposes 
 it. In reality there is none such, both soil and climate are favor- 
 able as nature could form them, and the extensive demand of 
 Great Britain must ever ensure an undoubted market at prices 
 high enough to remunerate the growers very handsomely : the 
 cause of failure in the attempt, must be sought for somewhere else 
 than in any natural deficiencies. That time and considerable 
 sums of money have been wasted is unquesliouably true, but it is 
 equally a fact, that the good intentions of administration have 
 been defeated by the inadequate measures pursued in the execu- 
 tion of the plans; and not a little impeded by a want of general 
 
ADDENDA NO. I.J 
 
 B 0 V C il E T'i £ ? S C AN AD * , 
 
 XV 
 
 agricultural knowledge,* n the persons to whom its management was 
 confided. It is not to be denied, but that there are some existing 
 difficulties to be removed before the cultivation of hemp can be 
 made generally agreeable to all persons interested in the agricul- 
 tural produce of the province; but as the chief of these arise 
 from the discountenance the clergy might show to its introduction 
 on an extensive scale, from a supposition that it would interfere 
 with raising wheat and other grain upon (he lands now in tillage,, 
 and thereby somewhat diminish their revenues ; may they not 
 be surmounted by making it a tithable article, and fixing the 
 rate to be paid as it is in England, namely, live shillings per 
 acre, or otherwise in the same proportion as the contribution of 
 grain is at present taken by them, a 20th part ?— Under such a re* 
 gulation the ecclesiastical body would consult its own interest, by 
 promoting the increase of this production ; a measure whicl* 
 could easily be accomplished by the powerful influence thai body 
 possesses in all the concerns of the country people, whether tem- 
 poral or spiritual, I have been unequivocally assured by a gen- 
 tleman, who has devoted the greatest part of his life to the im- 
 provements of growing and dressing both hemp and ilax, that he 
 has carefully examined several parcels of the former, sent some 
 time ago from Canada to London, and is decidedly of opinion, 
 that the growth is rnueh superior to what is in general imported 
 from Russia: but on the other hand, from mismanagement after 
 pulling, and from being steeped in bad water, its quality and co- 
 lour, are greatly inferior to what they would have been, had it 
 Undergone a proper process. The management of this plant 
 contains nothing of mystery, and is so plain that it may be car- 
 ried on by the least intelligent husbandman in the colony, if ho 
 be but once put in the proper routine, The choice of a soil fk 
 for the purpose is a leading point, and the kind which js consider* 
 ed the best, is a rich deep loam, whereon a very good crop may 
 be raised without manure, but it rnay be grown on almost any 
 species not absolutely of a bad quality, if it be well manured, ex- 
 cept where there is a cold sub-foil or a very shallow staple. To 
 ensure a good crop, the most careful attention must be paid to 
 ploughing and preparing the land. The tilth should be as line 
 and as deep as possible, a circumstance hitherto but little noticed 
 by the most part of ouv Canadian farmers, and in consequence of 
 
^1 feoulli>E TTK S 6ANABA. [ADDENDA NO. I? 
 
 4his neglect, their produce has been most materially reduced in 
 quantity. The seed, of which about four bushels should be al- 
 lowed per acre, ought not to be put in the ground until the wea- 
 ther is become warm 5 for the young plants when they begin to 
 shoot up are exceedingly tender, and liable to be injured if night 
 frosts happen in the early period of their growth. May is gener- 
 ally the best month for sowing it 5 but in Canada this time must 
 be pointed out by a correct knowledge of the climate. After the 
 seed is got in, a light harrow should be used, and nothing more 
 is required until it is lit for pulling; this will be, in from ten to 
 fourteen weeks. In iremp the male and female plants are mom 
 distinctly defined than in almost any other species 5 the former 
 bears a light coloured (lower, but never produces any seed, the 
 fetter, on the contrary, yields tlie seed but does not bear a flower. 
 Land is not at all impoverished by the growth of hemp, for after 
 a good crop has been pulled, it cannot possibly be in better condi- 
 tion to be laid under wheat, or indeed any tiling else. 
 
 f;f The different soils both of Upper and Lower Canada, are like- 
 Vise adnnrably well calculated for the growth of flax, an article 
 well deserving the farmer's consideration, from its yielding, with 
 tolerable good management, a larger as well as more certain 
 profit than the greater part of other crops. Loam, loam mixed 
 w4th clay, grave!, or sand, or clay alone, indeed any land but 
 such is very wet or very shallow, is good for raising it. On 
 warm, dry soils the sowing may commence in the middle of 
 March, and continue according to the condition and quality ot 
 the land, until the first week in May ; but with it, as with hemp, 
 the seed time must be guided by a. knowledge of the climate. 
 The ground may be prepared by a moderate ploughing, which is 
 not required to be very deep. From two and a half to three 
 hushels of seed per acre may be sown, winch must be harrowed 
 h\,oi' bush harrowed, and afterwards well rolled. When the 
 plants are from four to six inches high, care should betaken to 
 have them well weeded, and then no further attention is required 
 until the season for p id ling arrives, it remains on the ground 
 .from twelve to sixteen weeks, and is sufficiently hardy not to re- 
 ceive any injury from -night frosts. Flax and flax seed, as well 
 as hemp, may be produced in Canada fully equal, to say the least 
 ^f iU to what is obtained -from any other country. But th«y have 
 
BO.U C H E TTK S C A N ADA * 
 
 always been so injudiciously managed after pulling, that their* 
 natural good qualities have been seriously deteriorated. From 
 whence one might deduce, that unless a very different system be 
 resorted to, no reasonable expectation of profit from growing it 
 can be formed, and consequently few endeavors will be made to 
 extend the cultivation of these valuable articles. But to combat 
 such a supposition, 1 feci infinite pleasure in being able to make 
 known among my countrymen generally, that the process oi 
 steeping and dew rotting now in practice, whereby the fruits of 
 their labor have been so seriously injured, may be entirely su- 
 perceded, and henceforward the culture of these imporant pro- 
 ductions may be pursued with an absolute certainty of deriving 
 an ample profit therefrom. However doubtful this assertion may 
 appear to many, it will nevertheless be realised by the use oi 
 machines for threshing out the seed, and separating the woody 
 from the fibrous parts, both of hemp and flax, invented by Mr, 
 Lee, to whom a patent has been granted for his highly valuable 
 discovery. From a minute .and attentive inspection of this ma- 
 chinery, simple in its construction beyond all conception, as well 
 as completely effectual in its performance, and from the occular 
 demonstration of the perfect success of its operation I have had 
 the satisfaction to receive from this gentleman at Ins factory, I 
 am warranted in saying with the utmost confidence, that if it be 
 introduced into the British North American colonies, the greatest 
 benefits will be derived, not only by them, but by Great Britain 
 also..*, As it will stimulate the occupiers of land to pursue this 
 
 * I have been more minute in making the foregoing and far- 
 ther extracts from Mr. BoueheUe's work, from a conviction that 
 any useful innovation, improvement or invention that can be in- 
 troduced into the Canadian provinces, can be. with at teas* as 
 much utility adopted in the contiguous parls of the United States., 
 The culture of flax, has since the extensive introduction of cot- 
 ton cloths, declined in the United States : but the benefits of the 
 change, in many places may be justly doubted. The invention 
 of the circular saw, for extracting the seed from the fibre of cot- 
 ton, was the epoch of the extension of that article, and its cheap 
 application to the wants of mankind. How far human genius 
 may obviate the expence to which the culture of flax has hitherto 
 been subject it is impossible to determine ; if the statements of 
 Mr. Bouchette are even partially correct, much is already done on 
 
xviii 
 
 BOUCHETTE ? S CANADA. 
 
 [addenda no. jfc 
 
 branch of husbandry more than any premiums offered, or means 
 resorted to by government, woutd be able to do under the old me- 
 thod. By the use of this invention, the necessity of steeping and 
 d&V rotting being avoided, the farmer havilig pulled his crop, has 
 nothing, to do but stack it, when sufficiently dry for that purpose, 
 and let it remain until convenient opportunities occur of bringing 
 it into a marketable state, which may now be performed in a 
 very few hours. 
 
 The superiority of this mode of preparation is very great, and 
 the advantages obtained by it in equal proportion. All the labour 
 and attendant expence of steeping, spreading and drying ; as 
 well as the losses incident to these operations, is wholly saved. 
 The produce of fibre is fully one-third greater by this than by 
 former methods 5 while the fibre itself preserves the whole of its 
 natural strength unimpaired by any destructive process. In 
 cieaning flax the whole of the seed is preserved, and some parts 
 of the plant that by steeping are entirely destroyed, are now 
 saved to be turned to a very profitable account. The chaff, for 
 instance, is an excellent food for horses, cows, sheep, &c. and 
 the woody part when separated from the fibre, is a strong manure, 
 particularly good as a top dressing for wheat ; both of these have 
 hitherto been wasted. The mode of using the machines is so easy 
 as to be worked by women or eveti children; they may ^without 
 inconvenience to a family, be fixed in cottages, or the out-houses 
 of any description, so as to furnish a constant in-door employ- 
 ment through the winter months. 'Hemp or flax prepared by this 
 invention is found, from experiment, to be greatly superior in 
 strength to any other. The most impartial criterion, namely, 
 that of suspending a weight by a line made of different sorts, of 
 the same length, thickness and weight, has been had recourse to, 
 when the one prepared in this manner has supported more than 
 double the weight of the other. 
 
 " From many conservations I have had with Mr. Lee, on the 
 subject of his patent, besides frequent proofs of its efficacy, I 
 feel the strongest conviction that the value of his invention will 
 soon be appreciated when it is introduced into Canada. With 
 
 that subject, and serves to shew how slowly the most- val imble 
 discoveries find their way into use 
 
>>i>D£NDA HQ. L] JJOUCIIETtE^S CAXAn/v, Xiv 
 
 such an impression on my mind, I am persuaded, i shttH be aid- 
 ing to increase both the interest and comfort of my fellow-coun- 
 trymen, by promoting, as far as lies in my power, the general 
 use of so simple and so well contrived an apparatus. To estab- 
 lish, in some degree, the reality of what has been adduced, I 
 will insert the following estimate of the expences and produce of 
 one acre of flax, which I have been repeatedly assured by the 
 patentee is the result of many years practical experience as a 
 grower, and formed upon such/ a calculation as any fair average 
 crop, properly attended to, will not fail of realising always, and 
 most freqently somewhat exceed it. 
 
 EXPENSE PER ACRE. 
 
 
 £ 
 
 s. 
 
 d. 
 
 $ 
 
 cts* 
 
 Rent of land, - 
 
 5 
 
 00 
 
 00 
 
 22 
 
 22 
 
 Plouchinp - and hnrrowirtfr. -* ^ 
 
 * 1 
 
 10 
 
 00 
 
 6 
 
 6£ 
 
 Sowing, harrowing, and rolling, 
 
 
 7 
 
 06 
 
 1 
 
 6$ 
 
 Weeding by hand, 
 
 
 15 
 
 10 
 
 3 
 
 32 
 
 Pulling and setting up, 
 
 I 
 
 00 
 
 00 
 
 4 
 
 44 
 
 Three bushels of seed, 
 
 1 
 
 1 I 
 
 06 
 
 7 
 
 00 
 
 Cartage and stacking, 
 
 - I 
 
 00 
 
 00 
 
 4 
 
 44 
 
 Threshing out the seed, and cleaning 
 
 the flax 
 
 
 
 
 
 fit for market. 
 
 8 
 
 10 
 
 00 
 
 37 
 
 77 
 
 
 £\9 
 
 u 
 
 00 
 
 $87 51 
 
 PRODUCE PER 
 
 ACRE. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 £ 
 
 5. 
 
 d. 
 
 $ 
 
 
 \0 Cwt. at 60 shillings per cwt. 
 
 
 00 
 
 00 
 
 133 
 
 33 
 
 9 bushels of seed at lf)& per bushel, 
 
 - 4 
 
 10 
 
 00 
 
 20 
 
 00 
 
 Chaff, - - - - 
 
 1 
 
 1 1 
 
 06 
 
 7 
 
 00 
 
 Manure, 
 
 2 
 
 00 
 
 00 
 
 8 
 
 8.8 
 
 
 o£38 
 
 01 
 
 06 
 
 169 
 
 21 
 
 Expence> - 
 
 - £19 
 
 14 
 
 00 
 
 87 
 
 51 
 
 Profit * - 
 
 £W 
 
 or 
 
 06 
 
 $8 l 70 
 
 * I have reduced this estimate to Federal money at an allow- 
 ance of 4s. 6d. to the dolLar. If the data are drawn from correct 
 sources, the benefits of cultivating flax amount to a very seduc- 
 tive aggregate, The value, of cotton, to the cultivator, does not 
 
BOUCHETTK S CANADA. 
 
 [ADDENDA NO. £ 
 
 Ci This account is made out from the ratio of agricultural ex- 
 pences in ■England. Some of its items are undoubtedly different 
 from wliat they would be in the colonies ; but the excess in one 
 would be balanced, or nearly so, by the reduction of another $ 
 and as the prices allowed foi the produce .are such as the ordina- 
 ry state of the market will always afford, and after making a 
 reasonable allowance for tythes, freight, and other incidental ex- 
 penccs, the general result is sufficient to induce speculation with 
 tolerable fair prospects of success. It must be also taken into 
 consideration, that the expense of the machinery is very mode- 
 rate ; nor should it escape notice that a steady demand will be 
 found in England, both for flax and seed at fair prices.* 
 
 much exceed the balance here shewn in favor of flax ; and if the 
 ordinary cxpences of the respective places where those two veger 
 tables can be reared, are taken into account, it would admit 
 doubt which of the two products promise the largest reward to 
 human labor. Rent of land enters largely into the above com- 
 putation, and though the price of land in tjie U. S. must be also 
 estimated, the interest of that price would seldom amount to 
 more than one dollar per acre, even with the addition of clearing 
 and fencing ; consequently the profit to the citizen of the U, S, 
 would be greater, than to the English farmer, by the enormous 
 difference of more than $20 per acre. 
 
 * Flax, if now cultivated in many of the most thickly popin 
 lated, parts of Europe, in places, where from the number of peo^ 
 pie and scarcity of land upon which to rear vegetables and ann 
 mals for food, llax would cease to be cultivated could the inhabi- 
 tants receive in commerce, that material at a moderate price 
 It is only since the introduction of the saw-wheels for cleaning 
 cotton from the seed, that the use of that excellent vegetable 
 wool lias become so prevalent. The plough itself, does not pro- 
 duce a greater comparative abridgment of labour, than does the 
 saw-wheels. Four horses, two men, and one boy will cleanse, 
 pack, and enclose in bales per day at least six hundred pounds of 
 clean cotton, with a common cylinder of fifty saws; in the an- 
 cient mode of extracting the seed by hand, four pounds of clean 
 cotton was an excessive quantity to be cleaned in one day by one 
 person. If the value of the machinery and attendance are as- 
 sumed at an equivalent often full grown workmen, there remains 
 a difference of fifteen to one in favor of the use of the sa w ma- 
 chinery in cleansing cotton. Jt is very probable that flax and 
 hemp admit a rapid transition from the crude plant to use, in ao 
 ^qual ratio. 
 
ADDENDA NO. i.] 
 
 BOUCHETTE*S CANADA. 
 
 u With respect to hemp, it can never be doubted but what his 
 majesty's government will be again ready to lend every support 
 and encouragement to the production of an article in our own 
 flominioiiS} that we have long been forced to purchase from 
 strangers 5 which cultivation meeting with success, in a few years 
 may render our country wholly independent of the north of Eu- 
 rope, for its supply, or at any rate liberate it from the apprehen- 
 sion of ever being put to serious inconvenience by any change of 
 political sentiments in sovereigns. The welfare of my native 
 province and its parent state, has ever been with me the strong* 
 est incentive to exertion; and a ray of hope that I may be an 
 humble instrument towards promoting a pursuit which would re- 
 dound to the advantage of both, hath occasioned me to enter 
 more largely into this subject than I at first intended. If my ex- 
 pectations are too sanguine to be borne out by the opinions of 
 persons more enlightened thereon than I can pretend to be, I 
 ^vould much rather they would be attributed to an erroneous 
 judgment, than a willingness to commit myself to the chance of 
 misleading a single individual, by hazarding any unguarded or 
 unfounded representations. 
 
 " To ascertain, in the scale of importance, to what degree the 
 North American colonies rise, their present value$ and now much 
 that val ue is capable of being increased, it is necessary to take a 
 view of their commercial concerns, in order to bring their re- 
 sources fairly before us. In attempting to introduce this subject, 
 Ifeel no small degree of diffidence, from the reflection that it is 
 one much out of the line of my professional pursuits, in the dis- 
 cussion of which erroneous opinions are very liable to intrude, 
 and that by meddling with it I may be blamed by many for the 
 imperfect performance. My object is to attract to this point tiie 
 attention of men well informed on the intricate questions of mer- 
 cantile policy,* in the hope that some much abler pen than mine, 
 
 * In discussing this very important subject, Mr. Bouchette, with 
 all his modesty, is infinitely more competent than me. Our pro- 
 fessional pursuits were indeed similar, and as far as those pur- 
 suits tend to disqualify us for examining the arcana of trade, our 
 x intellectual impediments are equal : but in an intimate know- 
 ledge of Canada, and of course with the adjacent regions, Mr. 
 Bouchette has no rival ; therefore his opinions where not warped 
 by political or national feelings, are^entitled to great credit \ 
 
BOUCHETTfi's CANADA. 
 
 [ADDENDA NO I. 
 
 may, at no remote period, place i t i n a more clear and palpable state, 
 rather than to promote decision by any observations of my own. 
 The extent of my endeavors will be limited to conveying some 
 general ideas of the capabilities possessed by these provinces, of 
 rising into commercial greatness, if their interests be attended to 
 and protected. The situation of both Upper and Lower Canada, 
 are replete with conveniences for trade. The great extent and 
 many ports of the St. Lawrence accessible to ships of considera- 
 ble burthen ; its inland navigation even to the extremity of the 
 lakes ; the numerous rivers and streams which fall into it, by 
 which produce of all kinds may be conveyed from the most dis- 
 tant settlements to Quebec,* or other places of shipment, open- 
 
 have minutely transcribed this gentleman's speculations on Ca- 
 nadian commerce, because 1 am aware that hrs observations con- 
 cern the inhabitants of the contiguous stales and territories of the 
 United States, if possible even more than the persons to whom 
 his words are addressed, With the single exception of its freez- 
 ing in winter, the St. Lawrence does certainly possess, in climate ? . 
 soil, productions natural and artificial, and in present culture, 
 resources far beyond what the people of the United Slates have 
 any adequate conception. In the revolutions of power, first im- 
 pressions are terrible weapons ; in the changes of commerce, pre- 
 vious establishments are rocks of adamant. If the rich and hour- 
 ly increasing products of the St. Lawrence valley once flow to 
 Montreal, to that city will they flow, maugre all that legal prohi- 
 bition, or even the suggestions of private convenience can op- 
 pose to the current. Though our independence politically, is se- 
 cured beyond the reach of British rivalry, it is the only instance 
 where we are independent of that active and insidious govern- 
 ment. Unfortunately we have citizens so morally dependant, as 
 to induce them to expend the fruits of their talents to prevent our 
 entire emancipation. 
 
 * This is only correct in its full extent below the Falls of Nia- 
 gara; that cataract forming a formidable interruption to the na-* 
 vigation of the waters of the St. Lawrence. Indeed the ship 
 conveyance in that river and its connecting lakes are naturally 
 divided into four sections, separated by irremovable impediments ; 
 first section, from Montreal downwards to the gulf ; second, from 
 Niagara to Qgderisbu rg ; ships might descend below the latter 
 village about five miles, to the head of the Grand Gallop Island 
 and Rapids, but no incentive does now, or probably ever will cx*- 
 ist, to induce owners of vessels to fall below the mouth of the 
 Oswegatchie. The third section includes lakes Erie, Huron, Mi- 
 chigan, and the mouths of their confluents, between the Falls of 
 
 t 
 
ADDENDA NO. I.] feOUCliETTE ? $ CANADA. XXlii 
 
 greater facilities to mercantile speetfations than perhaps any 
 other country can offer. This river is the only channel by which 
 the commodities of these two provinces find their way to distant 
 countries, and is also by far the most natural, as well as most ea- 
 sily available egress for such productions of the districts of the 
 United States that lie contiguous to its southern bank, as they are 
 ahie to furnish beyond their own consumption. Prohibitory laws 
 of the American Senate, have, indeed, of late been passed to 
 bar its subjects from exportation by this route ; but they have 
 not obtained so much attention as it was imagined they would.* 
 A very large tract of fertile country on their side of the border, 
 is thickly settled and in high cultivation; the industry of its in- 
 habitants always insures a large disposable stock of the fruits of 
 their labors, which the vigilance and invention of a speculative 
 disposition will not fail to discover means of transferring to the 
 readiest market, in despite Of enactments that arc no less disa- 
 greeable than disadvantageous. By fostering this intercourse, 
 Canada would always secure a vast addition of articles of the 
 first necessity $ in aid of its own surplus produce, to meet a great 
 increase of its export trade, were that trade relieved by the Bri- 
 tish government from some of the impediments thrown in its way 
 by existing regulations, that are highly favorable to American 
 commerce* 
 
 *? The principal exports from the Canadas, consist of new ships, 
 oak and pine timber, deals, masts and bowsprits, spars of all de- 
 nominations, staves, pot and pearl ashes, peitry^ wheat, flour, bis- 
 cuit, Indian corn, pulse, salt provisions, fish, and some other mis- 
 Nisigara and the* Saut St. Mary. The fourth section is compos- 
 ed of lake Superior and its confluent rivers. The* commerce of 
 the first two divisions, will naturally pass to Montreal and Que- 
 bec : that of the latter two, will, if the New- York canal was fi- 
 nished, in great part pass through that conveyence into the Hud- 
 son. 
 
 * The most efficacious prohibition would be a water rente, 
 open longer, leading to a better market, and included within our 
 own country. Laws that contravene, to any great degree, the 
 passions or avidity of mankind, have been 1 , and always will be, 
 nugatory. The universality of severe penal statutes against du- 
 elling, and the almost equal ubiquity of that practice, is & Jburt 
 speaking commentary on what 1 have advanced above. 
 
xxiv 
 
 Couchette's canada. 
 
 [addenda ko. t* 
 
 cellaneous ai tides, employing generally about 150,000 tons of 
 shipping. In this enumeration, the articles of primary conse- 
 quence to England, are the growth of the forests, whether consi- 
 dered as the source of employment to British ships and native 
 sailors in the carriage of it, if they were able to contend for the 
 freights against the indulgences granted to their opponents ; or as 
 to their being of great and continued consumption, therefore of 
 indispensible necessity. Since the year 1 806, the timber trade of 
 the colonies, but of the Canadas in particular, increased in aw 
 extraordinary degree, until the state of the country at the com- 
 mencement of hostilities with America not only checked its Ano- 
 ther progress, but from very obvious causes, reduced it below th@ 
 standard of former years. This diminution, however, must b<e 
 considered only accidental, and totally unconnected with the re- 
 sources of the trade, which, according to the most discreet me- 
 thods of calculation, is not only adequate to supply abundantly 
 the demand of the British West-India islands with square timber, 
 planks, deals, staves, and whatever comes under the general name 
 of lumber, but to furnish a large proportion of the same for 
 the use of Great Britain. This ability it was, and perhaps with 
 many may be still the fashion to consider problematical ; but let 
 the return of exports from 1806 to 1810 be examined, and it will 
 be readily seen, that in these four years they advanced from 
 about 100,000 to 375,000 tons from all the provinces, of which 
 nearly one half was from Quebec alone. To meet this demand,, 
 no difficulties were encountered in procuring the necessary quan- 
 tities, either w ith respect to the number of hands to be employed 
 in collecting it, or any thing like a failure in the forests ; and had 
 it been as large again, it might have been answered with propor- 
 tionate facility. Within the period cited, the increase of this 
 trade in the Canadas only was much more than equivalent to the 
 total consumption of the West-India islands, estimated at 142,000 
 tons, which is but little less than half the quantity annually requi- 
 red for the use of the royal navy. The export of timber in this 
 year, is, perhaps, the greatest of any that has taken place, yet the 
 ease with which it was procured is certainly an argument that 
 weighs strongly against the assertion, that the North American 
 colonies are unable to supply the necessities of the West-Indies. 
 " With respect to the exportation of flour and grain,, the pro* 
 
fc&EXDA NO. I.] 
 
 BOUCHETTE's CANADA. 
 
 xxV 
 
 ■gress- is not certainly so satisfactory as that of timber;* yet this 
 circumstance is far from being conclusive of inability to furnish 
 such quantities as are required for the use of the West-India isl- 
 ands, whose annual demand for flour, grain, and biscuit, is com- 
 puted at something more than 1,200,000 bushels. Of this quan- 
 tity, Canada has hitherto seldom exported, upon an average, but 
 little more than a third part. So great a disparity of numbers, is 
 not a sufficient reason to abandon, without some further reflec- 
 tion, the supposition, that the supply may be made to equal the 
 demand. Immediately, indeed, it could not; but after the lapse 
 of a very few years, may not so desirable an object be obtained, 
 when the £ood effects of an improved system of agricultural 
 management, and to the encouragement of which the most rigid 
 attention ought to be paid, begin to -show themselves, combined 
 with such measures as would make it the interest of the people of 
 the well cultivated countries of the United States that lie contigu- 
 ous to our frontier, to bring their disposable produce to the ports 
 of the St. Lawrence ? The foundation of these advantages would 
 certainly be laid, were the colonial merchants placed in a situa- 
 tion to contend against those of America, in supplying the islr 
 ands. Until the commencement of hostilities with us, the latter 
 enjoyed the profits of supplying our West-Indian possessions, 
 both with provisions and lumber, and which were, in fact, secured 
 to them by an act that passed the British parliament, in 1807, 
 whereby the privy council was authorised to suspend the opera- 
 tions of the Act 1 2th Charles the Second, excluding foreign ships 
 from trading with the English colonies* Under favor of this suspen- 
 sion, they employed an immense number of ships in thistrade,every 
 ton of which was a manifest detriment both to our provinces and 
 
 * When in Canada, several judicious persons resident in that 
 country, expressed to me their opinion, that the lumber trade was 
 the greatest existing impediment to the prosperity and improve- 
 ment of the people, as it employed their active able bodied labor- 
 ing men in that part of the year that ought to be appropriated to 
 agriculture. There is little doubt, but that timber trade is a very 
 nnproductive branch of commerce, and that a country must re- 
 main at least in a dependant and precarious condition, where 
 much attention is paid to an application of industry, where the 
 profits are so small compared with the necessary exertion and 
 ^consumption of time. 
 
xxvi 
 
 BOt.eHETTE*S CANADA. 
 
 [addenda no. %. 
 
 our commercial navy. The admission of American produce into 
 the ports of Great Britain, upon paying the same duties only as 
 are charged upon the importation of similar articles from our 
 own colonies, is another very powerful check upon their prospe- 
 rity, which from these various combinations against it, will expe- 
 rience much difficulty in rising to the eminence it would speedily 
 attain, if that country, so recently ceased to be an inveterate 
 enemy, be not again placed by the liberality of the British go- 
 vernment in a situation to impede its progress, and be hereafter 
 viewed in the same light, and put upon a par with other foreign 
 nations, in respect to restrictions and countervailing duties ; then 
 the North American provinces will soon greatly improve their in- 
 ternal situation, and the mother country derive such benefit 
 from tbem as will render Imr more independent of other nations 
 for supplies of the first importance, than she has hitherto been/' 
 
 [Topographical Description of the Province of Loit er Canada, 
 with remarks upon Upper Canada. Fij Joseph f$awU%T$% 9 
 Esq, London, 1815, Page 57—85.] 
 
ASBENDA NO. II. j GENERAL REMAK$$, tfXVii 
 
 NO. 1L 
 
 GENERAL REMARKS. 
 
 THE foregoing correspondence and extracts, contains th$ 
 substance of my own personal observations, and such explanato* 
 ry matter from others, as I could collect during my tour, and 
 since its termination ; I cannot, however, take leave of the read- 
 er, without claiming his patience during a recapitulation; and an 
 examination of some extraneous matter, which was not included 
 in my original letters, though of some importance to elucidate the 
 topography of the country over which I ranged. I am aware 
 that such productions as mine, where few personal incidents are 
 introduced, must draw their interest from the geographical in- 
 formation they may contain. It has been my endeavor to throw 
 as much Yight as in my power, upon the natural structure, and 
 present improvements of the tract over which I ranged; how far 
 I have succeeded, is now before the reader. There is one object 
 of general interest, upon which more is perhaps expected from 
 me than I can fulfil ; that is, the Grand Canal now in progress in 
 the state of New- York. On the subject of this truly great work, 
 I have been careful to collect all the information I could procure, 
 and have now presented the result to the public. Not having vi- 
 sited Ballston or Saratoga Springs, I addressed a letter to the Rev. 
 Reuben Sears, desiring that gentleman to give me such informa- 
 tion as he possessed, respecting these places of public resort. Mr^ 
 Sears very politely and satisfactorily replied to my letter ; his an- 
 swer I have annexed to this Addenda, confident that it contains 
 much valuable statistical matter. 
 
 In my letter to Mr. C. G. Haines, I have explained my views 
 of the connexions that nature seems to have designed between 
 New-York and Pennsylvania, and can add but little in this place 
 to what I then stated. From the demonstrations I have given of 
 the true respective levels, between the head waters of the branch- 
 es of Ohio river and those which flow into lake Erie, the forma- 
 
GENERAL REMARKS* 
 
 [Addenda no. if* 
 
 tion of water communication between these streams must be attend- 
 ed wit!) great difficulty. We will now proceed to examine some of 
 the various intended channels of intercommunication between the 
 Mississippi and St. Lawrence vallies, and also the routes cf the 
 two New- York canals. 
 
 No doubt now remains, but that the Chicago and Illinois rivers, 
 afford by far the most eligible natural connexion between the 
 northern and southern waters of the United States. It appears 
 that the great spine running from the Hudson to the Maumee li- 
 ver, terminates at, or is interrupted by the valley of the Illinois*. 
 The latter stream is formed towards its source by two branches,., 
 one of which rises south of lake Michigan, and the other (river 
 Plein,) rises in the flat country west of the Chicago, and flow ing 
 £outh, unite to the south-west of the extreme south part of Mi- 
 chigan. The Chicago heads in the same plain with the river 
 Plein, and winding for some distance parallel to the latter stream, 
 thence turns east, falls into lake Michigan. The Chicago and 
 Plein intermingle their sources, and afford one of those instances 
 where rivers have their sources in plains, so nearly approaching 
 the curve of a real sphere as to leave for the discharge of the 
 waters scarce inclination sufficient to determine their coarse^,, 
 This is the case with the two rivers we are now reviewing. The 
 precise descent of the Chicago, from its nearest approach to the 
 Plein, to the level of lake Michigan has never been ascertained^ 
 but it is known to be without falls, or even rapids. The Plein 
 also flows with a very slight current, and the two streams present 
 almost a strait between the Mississippi river and lake Michigan.* 
 
 * The following interesting notice, decides the long contested 
 problem of a natural water communication between the waters 
 of the St. Lawrence and Mississippi rivers, and contains ais4> 
 some other items of valuable information. 
 
 FROM THE ST. LOUIS ENQUIRER. 
 
 Communication itith the hikes.— Messrs. Graham and Phillips, 
 commissioners on the part of the United States, and Mr. Suili- 
 van, surveyor, have set out to lake Michigan, to mark the hounda* 
 ry liu.es of the lands ceded to the United States by the Ottawa, 
 Chippewa, a,nd PoUov\a4i«33a Indians id the summer of the year 
 
Aft&EfrcA NO, H.^ 
 
 GENERAL RtfMAItKS. 
 
 XX! k 
 
 The land contiguous to this important pass, was ceded to the 
 United States, hy the savage tribes who formerly possessed the 
 right of soil. The land thus ceded, is now about being sur- 
 veyed, and in course will ere long be sold to individuals and set- 
 
 " They will run a line from the southern extremity of this lake, 
 to the Mississippi, 
 
 " The Indians have ceded to the United States, what lies to 
 the south of this line. 
 
 u The commissioners will run two other lines from the south- 
 western part of lake Michigan, to the Illinois river. The lines 
 will be parallel to each other, and twenty miles apart, Tiiey will 
 begin in the shore of the lake, at points ten miles north and south 
 of Chicago, and will embrace the little rivers Chicago and Plein, 
 and the carrying place between them, which form the channel of 
 communication between lake Michigan and the Illinois river, 
 The Indians have ceded to the United States, this important pass, 
 with ten miles of country on each side of it, and it is the busi- 
 ness of the commissioners to mark out the limits of the gran I, 
 that the American government may reduce it to possession. 
 
 " The communication between the lake and the Illinois, is a 
 point which will fix the attention of the merchant and the states-: 
 man. They will see in it the gate which is to open the northern 
 seas into the valley of the Mississippi, and which is to connect 
 New- York and New-Orleans by a water line which the combined 
 navies of the world cannot cut off. Never did the work of na- 
 ture require so little from the hand of art, to complete so great u 
 design ! 
 
 " The lakes Superior, Huron, Erie, and Ontario, lie from west 
 to east, in the direction of the St. Lawrence, manifestly seeking 
 their outlet through the valley of that river. But the Michigan 
 departs from that direction ; she lays from north to south. Uni- 
 ted to the other lakes by a strait, she stretches the body of her 
 water down towards the head of the Illinois river, as if intending 
 to discharge .herself through that channel into the Mississippi. 
 And no hills or mountains intervene to prevent the conjunction; 
 o;i the contrary, the ground between is flat, and covered with 
 ponds in wet weather, which turn their waters partly to the lake 
 and partly to the river. The Chicago ami the Plein are the 
 drains from these ponds ; they have neither falls nor shoals : they 
 have not the character of streams, but of canals; the water 
 fyardly moves in their deep and narrow channels. The Illinois 
 itself is more a canal than a river, having hardly current enough 
 to bend the lofty grass which grows in its bed. The French of 
 Canada and of the valley of the Mississippi have communicated 
 through tbis channel since the settlement of the countries. In 
 high water, boats often or a dozen tons, pass without- obstruct 
 
GENERAL REMARKS. 
 
 [ADDENDA NO. II. 
 
 tied. The developement of the natural resources of this region, 
 will be disclosed with the ordinary celerity, that marks the newly 
 established settlements in our western world. 
 
 The course of lake Michigan contributes in some measure to 
 diminish the natural advantages of its connexion with the Illinois. 
 The mouth of the Calumet river, or southern part of lake Mi- 
 chigan, is near N. lat. 42 ; whilst the straits of Michilimakinac 
 is about 45°, 40', making a difference of latitude of 3°, 40'. This 
 difference of geographical position exposes the two extremes of 
 lake Michigan to great variety of climate; the navigation of the 
 northern part being annually, and of the southern frequently im- 
 peded by ice. J have annexed to this Addenda, tables which wilt 
 exhibit the relative distance from the city of New-York to Si. 
 Louis by the Canadian lakes and by the Ohio river. These 
 routes, however, are so different from each other* in climate, fa- 
 cilities, and in) pediment, that very little accurate induction can 
 be drawn from their respective length to determine a preference. 
 
 It can scarce be doubted, but that beyond Buffalo, when the 
 contiguous countries are equally inhabited, the Illinois river and 
 Canadian lakes will form the channel of communication with the 
 upper waters of the Mississippi, in preference to the route by 
 the Ohio. The navigation of the latter river is subject to great 
 embarrassment from frost, and long dry weather in the fall sea- 
 sou. So much of the norUiera channel of commerce permits 
 the use of vessels of considerable tonnage, that transportation 
 from Buffalo to Chicago, will be less expensive than that of any 
 equal distance by the Ohio route. If the people of the United 
 States ought to ever unite, in opening any channel of communi- 
 
 tirvn- In the dry season, they are unloaded, placed on vehicles, 
 and' drawn by oxen over a portage of a few miles, and launched 
 into the liver or lake, as the course of the voyage may require. 
 Hundreds, nay thousands of boats have been seen at St Louis, 
 wltich had made a similar passage. 
 
 u It may be hoped that the government will not limit \\seK to 
 lite barren work of marking the lines about this portage. While 
 Ute.state of New-York opens a canal of three hundred miles, the 
 federal government should not be appalled at undertaking one of 
 three hundred rods. It might Le dug in the time that a long- 
 winded member of Congress would make a speech against its- 
 '•oustitutior.ality," 
 
ADDENDA NO. II. j 
 
 GENERAL REMARKS., 
 
 XXX J 
 
 cation, it is that by the Illinois river and lake Michigan. If the 
 various points, from St. Louis to Buffalo, were united by commer- 
 cial facility, a numerous population would he the immediate con- 
 sequence, a population that would spread a shield before the in- 
 terior parts of our country, and vould give a preponderance up- 
 on ihe St. Lawrence waters, to the people of the United States, 
 which in future wars would prevent a repitition of some of the 
 disastrous events of the late contest with Great Britain. 
 
 With the particular features of the country around lake Mi- 
 chigan, I am unacquainted, but from all the scattered information 
 I have been able to procure, I am induced to believe that the 
 shores of lakes Erie and Michigan are in a great part similar, and 
 if such is the fact, the latter is environed with shores possessing 
 all the attributes necessary to permit a dense and nourishing set- 
 tlement. That part of the Michigan peninsula, projecting along 
 the south-west side of lake jlur^m, is equal in soil to any other ter- 
 ritory of so great extent in the St. Lawrence valley, or perhaps in 
 any country. From Buffalo to Chicago, is a distance, following 
 the inflections of the -shores, of 850 miles \ and including the 
 western and northern banks of lake Michigan, of 1,200 miles. If 
 we allow only the extension of 20 miles from the margin of the 
 lakes for settlement, we have a fine border containing 24,'QCO 
 square miles; to which if we add an equal width along the Chi- 
 cago, Illinois, and Mississippi rivers, to St. Louis, 400 miles in 
 length, the aggregate will produce an entire surface of 32,000 
 square miles, or 19,480,ooo acres ; and at the very thin popula- 
 tion of 50 persons to the square aide, would contain 1,600,000 
 people. That the soil of this tract is capable of supporting more 
 than four times the supposed number I have no doubt, and that in 
 ihe lapse of less than thirty years from this time, it will contain 
 more than one million and a half of persons I have as little 
 doubt Before the middle of the current century, if no catastro- 
 phe occurs to disturb the present course of events, there will ex- 
 ist, between the city of New- York and St. Louis, within less than, 
 fifty miles of the line we are now examining, more than five mil- 
 Hons of people, or about one half as many as are now in the whole 
 United States. This may perhaps excite a suspicion of visiona- 
 ry views in the writer, but some statistical facts may render the 
 i!^c ; pation at least probable. It may be doubted; whether there 
 
xxxii 
 
 General remarks. 
 
 [agenda no. ill 
 
 is now under cultivation in the United States, as much productive 
 soil as is contained upon the surface under review. If a pair of 
 compasses is supposed to be set down in the city of Philadelphia, 
 and extended to 100 miles radius, the sweep will include a surface 
 of about 20,000 square miles of solid laud, and more than one 
 million and a half of people, or nearly a sixth part of the entire 
 population of the United States. Jf 20,000 square miles is Assum- 
 ed as the land included in the radii of 100 miles from Philadel- 
 phia, and 1, 500,000 as the population, then this surface must 
 iiave an average population of 75 to the square mile, out of 
 which 300,000 iflay be supposed to inhabit the cities of New- 
 York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, and other towns. No person ac- 
 quainted with the comparative regions, would hazard the asser- 
 tion, that 20,000 square miles around Philadelphia, is equal in re- 
 spect to soil, to an equal surface along the Mohawk, in west New- 
 York, along the south side of lake Eric, in the Michigan penin- 
 sula, and upon the Illinois river; the fact is, that compared to 
 each other, a decided preference is due to the latter over the for- 
 mer section, in the quality of the soil, and in general commercial 
 advantages j all things considered, they are nearly equal. Many 
 counties in the western states have already a population of more 
 than 50 to the square mile, upon soil much less adapted to agri- 
 culture, manufactures, or commerce, than the north-western 
 range from the city of New- York to St. Louis. 
 
 The route by lake Eric, Maumee, and Wabash, is in point of 
 oourse, the most direct line of communication from the Canadi- 
 an sea, to the Ohio and Mississippi rivers but subject to some 
 inconveniences not found by the Illinois and Michigan passage. 
 Though not impeded by either falls or cataracts, the Wabash is a 
 rapid stream, and for ascending navigation difficult; this stream 
 is however navigable to very near its source, and waters a body 
 of very excellent land. Maumee river has its sources on the same 
 table land with those of the Wabash, and flowing to the north- 
 east falls into lake Erie. The navigation of the latter river is 
 obstructed by falls near its discharge into Maumee bay, or the 
 extreme south-western curve of lake Erie. The country water- 
 ed by the Maumee river is generally fertile and well adapted to 
 the production of small grain. The Indian title being now ex- 
 tinct to considerable tracts on that river, settlement by a white 
 
AGENDA, NC. II A 
 
 population will speedily ensue. The route by the Maumeeand 
 Wabash may be made useful to a large community on the banks 
 of those streams, though as a channel of active intercourse be- 
 tween the Atlantic coast and the Mississippi valley, the northern 
 route will be preferred. 
 
 Another route presents itself, which has been hitherto in great 
 p 'looked; that is, by the Huron of lake Erie, or river 
 
 Raisin, with streams falling into the south-east extremity of lake 
 Michigaar, From the narrowness of the table land of the Mi- 
 chigan peninsula, and from the great saving of distance by 
 Michilimachinac, no doubt but that this former route will, at some 
 future period, be found of great national utility, particularly in 
 winter. 
 
 A projected union of Sandusky with the Sciota river, has been 
 long conceived ; of either the facility of execution, or benefits if 
 completed, of this design I am unable to speak with certainty. 
 
 Viewing a map of the respective places, the most obvious con- 
 nexion between (fie western parts of lake Erie, and the Ohio val- 
 ley is by the Muskingum and Cayahoga rivers. If a canal or 
 good turnpike road united these latter streams, the benefits would 
 be immediate and certain. I find this subject has met the atten- 
 tion of the people of the state of Ohio ; and if the statistical part 
 of the follow ing extract is correct, can be effected with great case.- 
 
 " Cleaveland, Nov. 1 7. 
 ff Contemplated canal— We have conversed with gentlemen resit? 
 ing on the river Tuscarawas, (a branch of Muskingum river) who 
 informs us, that boats could be constructed so as to carry 300 
 barrels of flour up and down the river to a portage of eight miles 
 to the Cayahoga river — a navigable stream for boats of all sizes- 
 during the summer months, and as branches from both streams 
 head in a large pond, it would be an easy matter to cut a canal, 
 so as to unite those streams, and thereby secure to ourselves the 
 trade of the Ohio river, and the vast and fertile country on the 
 banks of the Muskingum. We would invite the attention of the 
 state legislature to this important object, inasmuch as it would be 
 a source of inexhaustible wealth to the state, and unite the inte- 
 rest of the south, with that of the more northern sections of our 
 country. 
 
 " As the great western canal, unking lake Erie with the Hud* 
 
XXXrV GENERAL tffcSlARKS. £A0D£iNDA U, 
 
 son rivci", is hi a stale of forwardness, and will in two or three 
 years be completed, at once opening an uninterrupted com muni- 
 cation between lake Erie and the city of New* York. The mer-* 
 chant can have his goods brought on for a trifle, and in return can 
 transmit the .surplus products of our country to a sure market. 
 This single circumstance, is amply sufficient to induce the legist 
 Mature of Ohio to follow the example of their brethren in the east, 
 and cut a canal of only eight miles, to bring the products from the 
 fertile banks of the Ohio, through lake Erie to the city of New- 
 York. If the state legislature, and heads of department are not 
 b'ind to the interest of the state, they will not let the present ses- 
 sion pass, without al least preparing to put this important work 
 into execution. " 
 
 This well written article deserves a more permanent record 
 than the columns of a newspuper, I have embodied it into my 
 addenda, as it may tend at least to stimulate enquiry into an im- 
 portant point of our geography and national policy. 
 
 From Cleveland to Buffalo*, except by good roads, the inter- 
 course will be difficult between the people who inhabit the shoies 
 of the Canadian sea, and those of the Ohio valley. 
 
 We now approach the most important part of our enquiry, tire 
 Primum Mobile, of nearly all the exertion that will be made to 
 give effect to any of the preceding improvements. The Grand 
 Canal of the state of New-York ; a work that has arrested less 
 attention than the creation of new, or the delinquency of old 
 banks ; and yet a work that is destined to produce more lasting 
 impressions upon our external and internal policy, than any un- 
 dertaking since the formation of the federal constitution. Noth- 
 ing can be more narrow, more selfish, more puerile, or more un- 
 founded, than the supposition that the slate of New-Y r ork, as she 
 is only to be benefitted, ought to bear the expense of this great 
 project. In fact, when coihpleted, the state of New-York, in 
 proportion to her extent and population, will gain less from the 
 usufruct of the Canal, than a part of Pennsylvania, the northern 
 part of the state of Ohio, ail the Territory of Michigan, all the vast 
 region Ixeoynd, to the sources of lakes Superior and Michigan and 
 all Upper Canada above the chute of Niagara. Without such a 
 channel to the Atlantic coast, remote and detached masses of 
 population will be either forced to form their commercial con- 
 
A*DDEXDA NX). TI.] 
 
 GENE HAL REMARKS*. 
 
 n,ex ions with Montreal, or remain in a state of inactivity. This 
 is exactly the case at the present moment. The man who con- 
 founds the subject of the Canal with local or personal politics, 
 lias very little sejrse of or respect for his own future fame j' and 
 such a mistake will be of more injury to those who commit it,- 
 than to the execution of the design. It will leave the imprint of 
 its patrons on the face of the globe, an imprint that will remain 
 centuries after the names of those who are now only rendered 
 remarkable by office, will have passed to the deep silence of 
 oblivion. 
 
 If a river flowed from Buffalo to Albany, with a slow and gen- 
 tle current, unobstructed by rapids or shoals, with four feet water, 
 nature would then have done for interior North America, onlv 
 what the Canal is calculated to perform. To oppose or thwart 
 such a work, from motives of rival politics, is, to say the least, 
 unwise, inexcusable in an individual however obscure ; hut in 
 those whose decisions have a higher authority, pernicious. Eve- 
 ry road, bridge, or canal that is formed, of however small ex- 
 tent, contributes to unite society, to promote social and moral 
 intercourse, and to render men more liberal and more happy. 
 The man who gives his mite to accelerate the formation of such 
 works, does a lasting good to his species. To obtain a high rank 
 amongst mankind ; to become at once the envy of rivals, and 
 admiration of friends, is the lot of few men ; hut to contribute 
 to national prosperity by aiding designs of public utility, is within 
 the reach of all men. And it is now a time to pause, and re- 
 flect whether the resources of the United States can not be more 
 advantageously employed in internal improvement than in for- 
 eign commerce. If this hour of r eflection is neglected, posterity, 
 whilst suffering the evils, may execrate the folly of the present 
 generation. 
 
 We will now take a cursory survey of the intended route of the 
 canal, and without waiting for petty details, rabidly glance over 
 the facilities offered by nature, or impediments opposed to its 
 execution. 
 
 The Canal leaves Buffalo, thence follows the shore of Niagara 
 strait to the mouth of Tonnewanta creek, turns up tire bed of 
 that stream to where the level of lake Erie terminates, then 
 leaves the Tonnewanta upon lake Erie leveL which it follows t6 
 
:&xvi 
 
 GENERAL REMARKS. 
 
 [addenda m.tt> 
 
 the brow of Ontario heights. The Canal then assumes its great 
 eastern direction towards Rome ; follows the Ontario heights 
 through the sources of Eighteen Mile creek. Oak Orchard creeky 
 Sandy creek, and some smaller streams to Genesee, which latter 
 ) iver the canal will pass by a dam, or on an aqueduct bridge, and 
 winding thence over the heads of Irondequot creek, enters the 
 sources of Seneca river by Mud creek. The Canal then follows 
 the channel of Mud creek to the outlet of Canandaigua lake, and 
 also down the united stream to its junction with the outlets of 
 Seneca and Cayuga lakes. The latter point is the extreme de- 
 pression of land between Rome and Buffalo, and thus far may the 
 waters of lake Erie be made subservient to the Canal, if neces- 
 sary. So many feeders flow across the Canal route, that a su- 
 perabundance of water is to be found in all its length. I have 
 here noticed the northern route, which, from lake Erie at the 
 mouth of Buffalo creek, to the intersection of the Canal with 
 Seneca river, is 99 miles. The commissioners who framed the re- 
 port, under the law of the state of New- York, of the 1 7th of April, 
 181 6 ; seem to have preferred the southern route, but for reasons- 
 not sufficiently explained in their report. The two routes diverge 
 from each other at the point, 1 I miles up the Tonnewanta, and 
 again unite at the west bank of Genesee river. The northern 
 route, as I have mentioned, never rises above the lake Erie level, 
 but the southern route rises above lake Erie, to gain the summit 
 level near Batavin, nearly 75 feet ; a descent it must fall in ap- 
 proaching Genesee river, together with the difference of level of 
 that stream and lake Erie, 194 feet; or in all, from the Ba~ 
 tavia level to Genesee, 269 feet. The northern route avoids any 
 descent between lake Erie and Genesee river, except the simple 
 difference of level between these waters, and is exempt from any 
 ascent whatever, above the lake Erie level. The northern route 
 must also possess the insuperable advantage, of a much greater* 
 and more certain supply of water. 
 
 Neither route as far as Seneca river, meets any very serious 
 impediments from natural obstacles, and can be no doubt execu- 
 ted within the estimates made by the commissioners. 
 
 The level near Rome is 48.5 feet higher than low water in Sen- 
 eca river; the intermediate space generally a rich alluvion- 
 Here are presented some of the most curious phenomena oF 
 
ADDENDA NO. II.] 
 
 GENERAL REMARKS. 
 
 .North America. The singular adaptation of the space between 
 Rome and Seneca river for a Canal, is described in the following 
 very striking manner by the commissioners. 
 
 " The exuberant supply of water for the canal, in this section, 
 must be at once perceived from an inspection of the topographi- 
 cal map. At its commencement, the waters of the Mohawk ri- 
 ver will be used, and they can be increased to any extent, by in- 
 troducing a feeder from Fish creek. Independently of numerous 
 small brooks, the canal can derive as much water as can be de- 
 sired from the Oneida, the Gowaslon, the Canasaraga, the Chit- 
 teningo, the Black, the Limestone, the Butternut, the Onondaga, 
 the Nine-mile, the Skeneateles, the Bread, the Cold-spring, the 
 Owasco, and the Crane creeks; some of which ar£ the outlets of 
 lakes, and others originate from perennial springs in high lands, 
 and will never be affected by the clearing of the country. 
 
 46 The adaptation of the grounds of this section, for a canal, is 
 peculiar and extraordinary. After proceeding two miles and 
 fourteen chains, it will be necessary to descend 6 feet ; after which, 
 the line of the canal proceeds 41 1-2 miles on one level. A de- 
 scent of 19 feet then takes place, from the foot of which another 
 level extends 30 miles. For the remainder of the distance to the 
 Seneca river, there are three departures from the level — one of 8^ 
 one of 9, and one of 6 1-2 feet. Thus the whole extent of this 
 section, occupying 77 miles, will require but six locks. 
 
 u In many places inexhaustible beds of gypsum exist, which can, 
 by means of this canal, be conveyed cheaper to the great agricul- 
 tural counties of the state, than it can be procured by importa- 
 tion. And nothing is more easy than, by a short lateral canal of 
 i 1-2 miles in length, to form a communication between Salina 
 and the great canal, thus furnishing fuel to the works, and salt tv 
 the whole country. A level has been carried from that of the ca- 
 nal, at the foot of the two locks near Onondaga creek, which 
 would require no greater deptli of excavation than four feet, in 
 any place, and no embankment, culvert, or lock." 
 
 Vide Commissioner's Report, page 59. 
 It may be said with justice, that the country west of Utica, is 
 peculiarly adapted to the formation of a canal ; and if no farther, 
 progress should ever be made than .uniting together by a water 
 e®romuaication ? the Mohawk and Seneca rivers, such a work 
 
 T 
 
xxxv iii 
 
 oEN.ERAt REMARKS. 
 
 [ADDENDA ?sO. n 
 
 ought to immortalize its projectors, and enrich those who carry 
 it into execution. I have shown that the Mohawk river near 
 Kome, at high water divides its stream and discharges water to- 
 wards the Hudson and St. Lawrence rivers; of course this cir- 
 cumstance renders the volume of the Mohawk subservient as a 
 feeder to the canal, both to the westward and eastward. 
 
 When writing on this subject,, the idea first presented itself to 
 my mind, that through either the Mohawk, or some valley to the 
 south-west of that village, once flowed the St. Lawrence river 
 Rome is only 188 feet above lake Ontario; aud the vallies of the 
 Chitteningo, perhaps not so high even near the sources of that 
 river. 
 
 Every step! advance in the inquiry respecting the Grand Ca- 
 nal, I am the more impressed with the belief that much valuable 
 information would be gained by an accurate survey of the inter- 
 locking sources of the Susquehanna river and the streams flowing 
 towards Oneida lake: The points chosen, Newton creek and Se- 
 neca lake, to unite the Susquehanna river to the confluent waters 
 of the Grand Canal, are the most obvious,* but I now very much 
 doubt their being the only points of contact, where very useful 
 improvements could be made. If ever lake Ontario was 18& 
 feet above its present level, then was its waters discharged, either 
 towards the Hudson or Susquehanna, or both. The ancient fea- 
 tures ^f this continent, must have been very different from the 
 present. It will be recollected, that the difference of level be- 
 tween lakes Erie and Ontario, is 334 feet; therefore, if the sur- 
 face of the^latter was again elevated 188 feet, its level would stilt 
 he depressed below that of the former 146 feet. 
 
 No person of ordinary observation, who examines the shores 
 of lake Ontario or the banks of St. Lawrence river, but will grant 
 that abundant evidences remain to attest an elevation of lake 
 Ontario of more than two hundred feet above its present surface. 
 Evidences also exist, to prove that the recession of that lake was 
 periodical. The chain of smaller lakes lying west of Rome, 
 north of the dividing ridge, and cast of Genesee river, were once 
 bays of Ontario. It is very certain, that the space between the 
 hills north of Utica. to those south of Skeneatcles lake, is stiil far 
 
 * See page 136, 
 
ADDENDA NO. II.] 
 
 $&NERiU* RE1VUIVKS. 
 
 XXXIX 
 
 the lowest gorge in the separating ridge that exists between the 
 Illinois river and lake Champlaiu; and admitting the ancient ele- 
 vation of lake Ontario to the level of the Mohawk river near 
 Rome, then through this pass once flowed the St. Lawrence wa- 
 ters. If such a disposition of things was ever the case* the an- 
 cient channel remains, and will, it is probable, be found the most 
 eligible channel of communication that nature admits, between 
 the waters of St.. Lawrence and Susquehanna rivers. 
 
 Happily the Grand Canal in leaving that of the Mohawk, pas<* 
 ses into the St. Lawrence valley, by this apparently ancient chan- 
 nel, and has received from nature a facility in effecting its execu- 
 tion, that no where else exists in all the line of connexion be- 
 tween the waters flowing towards the Atlantic coast, and those 
 which enter the Ohio valley. The Susquehanna river is render- 
 ed remarkable, from rising north-west of the Allegany mountains, 
 and from passing that entire chain in its course to the Atlantic 
 ocean. The foregoing is however a characteristic which the 
 Hudson participates with the Susquehanna; the Mohawk rises 
 north-west of the spine of the Allegany, and also passes over a 
 part of that chain, in its way to the Hudson, which latter pierces, 
 the residue. 
 
 After joining the Mohawk rjver near Rome, it is intended to 
 follow the margin of that river with the canal, keeping the south 
 bank. Except at the Little* and Colmes Falls, no impediment 0f 
 
 " New- York, Oot. 28, 1818. 
 *" Internal Trade. — The following is an extract of a letter, 
 addressed to the Editor, from a gentleman at the westward, whose 
 intelligence and opportunities are such as to give confidence to 
 his statements. 
 
 ' F rom the Company's books at the Little Falls,! find that the 
 .number of tons of merchandise and produce, transported in boat$ 
 through the locks at that place, during the year 18 17, is three 
 thousand seven hundred and thirty-Jive, From our limited trade, 
 for the want of an uninterrupted water communication with th© 
 western part of the state, &c. I estimate the price of transporta- 
 tion per ton at $60-- -which will make an aggregate of $224, iQQ 
 per annum. 
 
 ' The receipts at those locks only, for the last year, were about 
 $10,000 — and this year they will amount to about $12,000. 
 
 * There may be a distinct branch of commerce between Utica 
 and lake Ontario* &r. through Wood creek — but^of this I have 
 
 lio account. 
 
GENERAL REMARKS. 
 
 [ADDENDA NO. U, 
 
 any consequence exists in the distance between Rome and Alba- 
 ny. Locks already exist at the Little Falls, which enable the 
 farmers and merchants to transport their produce and merchan- 
 dise, by water from the upper Mohawk to Schenectady. The 
 note at the bottom of this page, will give some idea of the present 
 
 1 From an account taken for the purpose, at a turnpike gate 
 above the Little Falls, (where it will be recollected an important 
 road diverges to the north,) I calculate the number of two and 
 three-horse waggons employed in transportation, (exclusive of 
 the occasional trips of farmers' waggons, and of those removing 
 families and furniture,) to be 290 — making on an average twelve 
 trips a year, and carrying both ways two and a half tons each. 
 As the loads of such waggons do not generally go so far west as 
 those of the larger waggons, the transportation is calculated ai 
 but $30 per ton— amounting to $180,000 per annum. 
 
 * Of five, six, and seven-horse waggons, there appears to be 
 forty employed, carrying on an average six tons, both ways, and 
 making at least six trips (I might say seven) per annum — their 
 freight at $40 per ton, amounts to $57,600. 
 
 * For transportation by boats, - $224,100 
 
 do. small waggons, - 180,000 
 
 do. large - - ... 57,000 
 
 Total, $4 6?, loo 
 
 f I have submitted these statements to men who are competent 
 to decide, and they pronounce them rather low than otherwise. 
 The price of freight is lower than the estimate of Sidney ; but I 
 have reason to believe it is nearly correct, as a very large propor- 
 tion is started and landed short of Buffalo ; and produce is 
 brought to, much cheaper than merchandise is carried from Al- 
 bany. 
 
 6 It will be observed, that nearly half a million is now paid for 
 transportation annually, from above the Little Fails, and the 
 Black river roads, of course on one side only of the Mohawk,' and 
 upon the river itself— send that the transportation has increased 
 at least one sixth, since last winter, upon the river. What would 
 the people sav to a saving of but half of the above expense? 
 What would they say if that saving was doubled, by adding to llrt? 
 account the thousands of loads yearly transported by the farmers 
 themselves? And what would they not say, could they foresee 
 the immense quantities of produce and merchandise which must 
 necessarily pass this great thoroughfare to and from the western 
 world, whenever the canal is opened ? 
 
 c But I must not indulge fancy, when lam restricted by a want 
 of both time and capacity to do any thing like justice to my sub- 
 ject. I have collected a few facts, which are at your disposal, if 
 they are wox\h preserving." ? — Columbian. 
 
ADDENDA NO. I I.J GENERAL REMARKS.. xU 
 
 quantity and value of produce, which is transported through the 
 locks at the Little Falls. It will be recollected, however, that if 
 agriculture and commerce make roads and canals, roads and 
 canals re-act, and in their turn augment agriculture and com- 
 merce. Therefore, no estimate made as things are now situated, 
 can give an adequate conception of the trade of the Mohawk, if 
 that stream was connected with Seneca river and lake Erie. 
 
 The middle section of the canal, >s the only part which is yet 
 in progress, and is now so far advanced, as to render it probable, 
 that in the ensuing year, the communication with the Seneca will 
 be completed, and the middle and eastern parts of the state uni- 
 ted, which alone would be of incalculable gain to the state. 
 " The middle section of this canal," says the Utica Gazette* 
 is in nearly as great forwardness as that of the northern, and it 
 Is expected that it will be completed before the close of another 
 season. This section extends from Utica to Seneca river, a dis- 
 tance of nearly 90 miles, and in its whole course has but one set 
 of locks,- and those at Salina, 60 miles west of Utica." 
 
 Writing upon the subject of the canal, I proceeded rather as a 
 statist than an engineer; without attending to the minor details, 
 my endeavor has been to develope the general features of the 
 country through which this work is intended to pass, and rather 
 to show its practicability and usefulness, than the ordinary means 
 to effect its execution. 
 
 For further information respecting this project, I must refer to 
 the following documents. 
 Memorial to the New- York Legislature, when the Western Ca- 
 nal was first projected." Written by De Witt Clinton. 
 u , Reports of Canal Commissioners." 
 
 u Memorial to 1 the Congress of the United States, to solicit aid 
 in making the Grand Canal." 
 
 u Considerations on the Great Western and Northern Canals, in- 
 cluding a view of the expense, progress, and advantages.™ 
 Written under the direction of the New- York Correspondkig 
 Association for Promotion of Internal Improvements. By 
 Charles G. Haines. 
 
 This latter work, perhaps more than any other that has ap- 
 peared, gives a luminous expose of the canal and its certain be-» 
 jnefits to the nation, as well as state of New- York : and ought to' 
 
 T2 
 
}ye read impartially by every man who desires 1o think, speak, or 
 judge correctly on the important subject upon which it treats I 
 did not visit the region in which runs the Northern Canal between 
 the Hudson river and lake Champlain, therefore cannot include 
 any details respecting that undertaking in this treatise. 
 
 Among the many benefits that the people of t he interior of the 
 state of New- York, will derive from a water communication with 
 the Canadian sea, one of the greatest lias hardly been noticed,— 
 the lake fisheries, which may be extended to any possible demand* 
 These fisheries have been hitherto in some measure checked by 
 Me dearness and difficulty of procuring salt. This inconveni- 
 ence will be remedied by the canal, and the natural streams with- 
 which it will be connected. 
 
 " Lake Fisheries. — We cannot sufficiently appreciate tire good- 
 ness of Providence, for the peculiar bestowment of his favors 015 
 the people of this state. The sources of New-York yet only 
 dawn upon us. — Heaven has placed an exclusive supply of salt 
 In the heart of the state, and this necessary article is dispensed 
 Tor one shilling a bushel, where the transportation alone, if im- 
 ported, would cost twelve. Not only are the inhabitants of the 
 whole interior Of the state provided at a low rate, but a large sur- 
 plus is yearly exported. The current season, more than sixteen 
 thousand barrels have gone through lake Ontario, for Pennsylva- 
 nia and Ohio.— Gyp'sntti too, in quantity equal to every purpose 
 nnd beyond consumption, is found in vast beds where the distance 
 must, but for the bounty of the "great author of nature have deni- 
 zed the farmer this great aid in agriculture. These sources of 
 wealth and convenience have been frequently described, white 
 the no legs liberal hand of Providence in furnishing the wants of 
 many and the luxury of others, by means of the fish found in the 
 lakes, is hardly known or acknowledged. The reason for taking 
 fish is just closing — I have not to the data for an estimate of the 
 yearly product of this lake, but have ascertained from the most 
 correct sources the following to be the quantity and species of fish 
 taken and salted this season, in this and Chaumont bays. 
 " Siscoes or lake Herring, 4,000 barrels, 
 
 selling price $7 per barrel, is $2$,000 
 " White fish, } ,200 bbls. price $9 is ' 10,800 
 
 " Salmon Trout, 400 bbls. " 14 is 5,600 
 
 & Total, 5, 3 600 bbls* amount, $44,10*1 
 
ADDENDA NO. II.] GENERAL REMARKS. xiy| 
 
 " The distance comprised is less than twenty miles, and 
 ihe quantity is exclusive of the abundance distributed fresli 
 in the country, contiguous to the fishing grounds. From 
 this statement some opinion may be formed of the value^ 
 importance, and extent of our inland fisheries. Industry and la* 
 bor are aione wanting to share this bounty, and the poor are ena- 
 bled to provide a resource for winter with but little expense. To 
 ^ome they furnish the raeans of subsistence, while others atadi^s- 
 <ance seek them as a luxury. We are glad to have it in our pow- 
 er to state, tivat a law was passed by the late assembly to regulate 
 the packing of lake fish, and provides for the appointment of in* 
 specters, who have branded all those put up under their direction. ^ 
 
 It was not the seasoti for fishing when I was upon the Canadi- 
 an lakes, lam therefore the less enabled to give either accurate or 
 extensive information upon the subject. The inhabitants of the 
 contiguous shores consider the fish of the lakes as a very serious 
 part of their nourishment. The lower extremity of lake Onta- 
 rio, the Bass islands in lake Erie, and the Manatoulio islands in 
 lake H«ron, are gen erally represented as affording the best fishe- 
 ries in these respective lakes. The mouths of most of the rivers 
 also^bound with fish of various kinds, of excellent quality. 
 
 This article might indeed be extended to any length. The re- 
 sources of the St. Lawrence valley are so numerous, so widely 
 spread, and] I might add until lately, so little appreciated, that 
 a volume might be written to exhibit the neglected objects with 
 which it abounds, and that may, and no doubt will ere long be 
 brought into use. 
 
 I shall close this article by some observations upon travel- 
 ling through the St. Lawrence valley. Viewed in the light of a 
 tour of pleasurable amusement, I cannot conceive of a country 
 where more could be enjoyed, as far as the richest objects in na- 
 ture are gratifying to our taste. From the city of New- York to 
 that of Albany, and from the latter along the Mohawk and Sene- 
 ca rivers, the traveller finds renewed gratification at every step. 
 From Canandaigua to Buffalo, is the least interesting tract over 
 which I myself passed $ but even here, many circumstances m 
 the improvement of the farms, villages, and roads, will afford am* 
 pie gratification to minds who derive delight from seeing a wilder^ 
 4iess changed to a cultivated country* 
 
GENERAL REMARKS. 
 
 [ADDENDA NO. If. 
 
 When arrived at Buffalo, a tract opens, that the coldest heart 
 can scarce view with indifference. Here opens the expanse of 
 lake Erie, the richly spreading landscapes along Niagara river, 
 and above all, that cataract, that to have seen may he considered 
 a privilege. The steam-boat will in a few days waft the traveller 
 along the surface of lake Erie to Detroit; and whilst on this voy- 
 age, the swelling shores of that lake, the numerous islands in its 
 south-west extremity, above all, the well cultivated shores and 
 beautiful strait of Erie, with its towns, farms, and other objects^ 
 will combine to present a continually renewed feast to the mind. 
 Returned to Buffalo, the Niagara strait can once more be passed 
 with unabated pleasure. The steam-boats are again in readiness at 
 Lewiston or Queenston, to waft the traveller along Ontario to 
 Sacket's IlarLor. The scenery upon the shores of Ontario is move 
 varied, and of a bolder aspect than upon Erie, and though 
 the least in extent of the five great lakes of Canada, Ontario is 
 the most interesting of the whole groupe. With Niagara at the 
 one extremity, and the St. Lawrence at the other, and receiving 
 from its southern shores the Genesee, Oswego, and Black rivers, 
 this noble sheet of water may claim the first rank, when viewed 
 as the great connecting link, between the vast interior sea of 
 North America, and the unequalled stream flowing from its east- 
 ern point. And as if to render its superiority over its more ex- 
 pansive rivals decisive, it possesses the two fine harbors of Kings- 
 ton and Sacket's, where ships of the line of the first rate, 
 now lie in silent majesty, awaiting the period of war, to waft the 
 thunder of their hundred cannon over its deep and ocean-like 
 bosom. 
 
 Beside the features of Black river, which as high as Watertowu 
 well deserve a visit from the curious traveller, many other objects 
 near Sacket's Harbor, will amply reward the trouble and expense 
 of a review. The spot is indeed classic ground. It was here 
 that first budded the now majestic laurels of our living General 
 Brown ; and it is here, where rests the remains of the brave, the 
 generous, humane, and chivalrous Pike. Upon the point of land 
 overloeking the harbor, rests the ashes of this American hero$ 
 and few Americans will ever visit the spot without dropping a tear 
 to the too .early, but glorious exit of this gallant soldier. But 
 Pike rests not alone other heroes sleep beside him. Many of 
 
ADDENDA NO. I/.] GENERAL REMARKS. XrV 
 
 the best and bravest men of the nation, fell upon the Canadian 
 border. Their names have only in part survived the battle field ; 
 their dying sigh mingled with the last roar of the cannon, and 
 left their memory to be cherished by a few relatives and friends, 
 and forgotten by that country they so greatly served. The tra- 
 veler in seeking their graves, will often seek in vain ; no hand is 
 found to point to the spot where the soldier sleeps. Fame lavish- 
 es her plaudits upon a'fe\v, and 'eaves the many to perish without 
 a name ; and often the man whose sword saved his country, has 
 4iot eveu the poor memorial of a heap of earth, to render sacred 
 the spot where his remains have been laid ; and alas ! too often 
 his little orphans, mingle the bitterness of want, with tears foi? 
 a father who can neither " hear them sigh, nor see them weep." 
 
 It would be nothing more than strictly correct to add, that from 
 Sacket's Harbor to the city of Quebec, is a distance of about 380 
 miles that concentrates more to charm the eye, than can be found 
 upon any equal extent in North America, if not upon the earth; 
 The St. Lawrence river and islands, the shores and rapids, tire 
 distant mountains, the contrast of cultivated and forest land, vil- 
 lages, cities, vessels of great variety of size and form, and the 
 majestic and pellucid river, all form a tout ensemble, that can with 
 difficulty find a parallel. 
 
 Returning by the Richelieu river, lake Champ tain, and Hudson 
 river to Albany and New-York, will complete this truly delightful 
 tour. The following list of stages and distances, will give more 
 precise ideas of the time necessary to perform the foregoing tour. 
 
 
 
 MILES. 
 
 New -York to Albany,* 
 
 
 160 
 
 ,160 
 
 Utica, . - - 
 
 
 J 0.1 
 
 261 
 
 Auburn, - 
 
 
 74 
 
 » 335 
 
 
 
 
 357 
 
 Canandaigua, 
 
 
 16 
 
 373 
 
 Genesee river. 
 
 
 26 
 
 399 
 
 Data via, 
 
 ■r - - m m 
 
 26 
 
 425 
 
 
 
 40 
 
 465 
 
 Dunkirk, - 
 
 
 45 
 
 5 10 
 
 Erie, - 
 
 
 45 
 
 555 
 
 * I have given the above, because that number of miles is gen- 
 erally understood to exist between the two cities. The estimate 
 "is, however, erroneous ; it is, within a small fraction of a mile, 
 145 miles from New- York to Albany. 
 
GENERAL REMARKS. 
 
 [ADDENDA NO. lp 
 
 Sandusky Bay, - - 
 Bass Islands, - 
 
 JMouth of Detroit river, - - - w 
 Amhevstburg, - 
 DETROIT CITY, ..... 
 
 Return to Buffalo^ - - 
 
 Thence to the fails of Niagara, 
 Quecnstown and Lewislon, - 
 ¥ovt Niagara and Fort George, enter lake Ontario, 
 Genesee river, 
 t *reat Sod us Bay, 
 
 Oswego river, - - * - - " - 
 Jacket's Harbor, 
 
 Cape Vincent, enter Sfc> Lawrence l iver, 
 Urockvi Me, -Canada, and Morristown in U. S. 
 Ogdensburgh U. S. and Prescott in Canada, - 
 tjpper end of Grand Gallop Islands, - * 
 Lower end of ditto, 
 
 Hamilton, U. S. ----- - 
 
 Cornwall in Canada, St. Regis U. S. 45 Q N-. lat. 
 Montreal, % - - *■ * - 
 Three Rivers, 
 Quebec,- - 
 Return to Montreal, - 
 Plattshurg, > 
 Albany, * » 
 
 New- York, ^ 
 
 MILES. 
 
 
 90 
 
 
 
 50 
 
 695 
 
 
 16 
 
 71 1 
 
 
 O « 
 
 2o 
 
 7 J 4* 
 
 
 H 
 3 
 
 
 
 1 A 
 
 *7- X X 
 
 
 
 1 ? U4d 
 
 
 O 1 
 
 1 ,UOD 
 
 
 7 
 
 1 ,07 J 
 
 
 7 
 
 1 ,080 
 
 
 74 
 
 1 1 K. A 
 
 \ , 1 54< 
 
 
 *> t 
 
 OD 
 
 1 1 Qfl 
 
 l , i oy 
 
 
 O Q 
 >5 o 
 
 1 <)i7 
 
 
 
 \ o «y 
 * / 
 
 
 on 
 
 l } Z( t 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 A 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 1 ,.344 
 
 
 Q 
 
 
 
 1 U 
 
 1 <3 £ -"* 
 
 1 ,oo.> 
 
 
 35 
 
 1,398 
 
 
 60 
 
 1,458 
 
 
 105 
 
 1,563 
 
 
 65 
 
 1,628 
 
 
 165 
 
 1,793 
 
 
 73 
 
 11.866 
 
 
 178|2.iD44 
 
 
 |l 60 (2,204 
 
 III the above table, the distances are given rather from public 
 estimates than from real measurement, and are consequently too 
 liigb, by perhaps nine or ten percent., as is the case between 
 New- York and Albany ; the relative distances I believe to be near 
 ]y correct. 
 
 This line tour can be made within the period of forty days, 
 "with ample time to see the n*ost remarkable objects to be found 
 upon the route. The necessary expense cannot be so easily es- 
 timated, but would certainly fall, for one person, below three 
 hundred dollars. The best season of the year would be July and 
 August; though to enjoy the luxury of a Canadian summer, the 
 traveller must be on the St. Lawrence in July and the early part 
 of August. 
 
M)TfKki)A N@. II.] GOV. CLINTON 'S MESSAGE. 
 
 tflviv 
 
 The address of Governor Clinton, to the legislature of the state 
 of New- York readied the eity of New- York, on the evening of 
 the 7th January, 1819. The foregoing part of this Addenda wa£ 
 then in type, but I considered some part of the Governor's address 
 of so much import, ami m relevant to the subject on which the 
 Addenda itself was ftmtided, that I have taken the liberty to su* 
 peradd the following extracts from that luminous production. I 
 am the more emboldened to this procedure, from considering the 
 sentiments expressed, and the facts conveyed by that excellent 
 statesman, as national property. 
 
 " The progress of our internal improvements has equalled our 
 most sanguine expectations, in the course of the next session^ 
 the Northern Canal, extending from Whitehall at the head of lake 
 Champlain, to Fort Edward, on the Hudson river, a distance of 
 23 miles, and the whole of the middle section of the Western Ca- 
 nal comprising ninety-four miles, and reaching from the Seneca 
 l iver to the Mohawk river at Utica, will be completed and in a na- 
 vigable state. Thus, in less than two and a half years, Canals to 
 the extent of one hundred and seventeen miles will be perfected. 
 And, as the eastern and Western sections of the Canal from lake 
 Erie to Hudson river will be about 260 miles, it is evident that, 
 by the application of similar means and. the exertion of similar 
 powers, the whole of this internal navigation can be finished in 
 six years from the present period, including also the improvements 
 essential on Hudson river, from Foil Edward to the head of sloop 
 navigation. Jt is satisfactory also to know that, so far as we can 
 judge from tlie lights of experience, the iactual expenses have not 
 exceeded the estimates of the commissioners. And, with ail the 
 ad vantages arising from eirci eased knowledge, from improved skill, 
 and from circumspect experience, ive are fn raly persuaded, iliat 
 the aggregate expense will fail short of the total estimate. Jt is 
 •also a most gratifying consideration to find, that from the pro- 
 gressive and flourishing state of the fund appropriated to this ob- 
 ject, the whole undertaking can be completed without providing 
 any auxiliary resources, -and without imposing any taxes on the 
 community. From the commencement of the next year, the fi- 
 nished portions of the Canals will be in a state productive of con* 
 siderable revenue. 
 
 By the act respecting navigable communications between the 
 
xlviii 
 
 gov. Clinton's .message, [addenda no. i*. 
 
 great western and norlbern lakes and the Atlantic ocean, passed 
 the 15th April, 18.17., the commissioners are only empowered to 
 make Canals between the Moha wk and Seneca rivers, and be- 
 tween lake Champlain and the Hudson river. Possessing, how- 
 ever, under that act, and the act to provide lor the improvement 
 of the internal navigation of the state, passed the 17th April, 181-6, 
 authority to make the necessary surveys, and to lay out the pro- 
 per routes for the whole of the Western and Northern Canals, 
 they have not overlooked the latter, although their attention has 
 been principally de voted to the former object. By that initiatory 
 arrangement, it was obviously the intention of the Legislature to 
 bring the calculations of the commissioners to the touchstone of 
 experiment, and to determine whether the resources of the state 
 are adequate to the whole operation. 
 
 " This trial has taken place in the most satisfactory manner^ 
 and there cannot exist a doubt of the feasibility of the work, or 
 of the ability of the state. It is therefore highly expedient that 
 a law should be passed, during the present session, authorising 
 the completion of the whole work as soon as possible. In the 
 course of this year the routes can be then so far definitively settled , 
 as to enable the formation of contracts to take effect in the spring 
 of 1820, by which means a whole year will be saved to the ope- 
 ration, and the state will have the benefit of experienced con- 
 tractors, who might, under a different state of things, be employ- 
 ed in other undertakings. And, when we contemplate the im- 
 mense benefits which will be derived from the consequent pro- 
 motion of agriculture, manufactures, and commerce — from the 
 acquisition of revenue— from the establishment of character, and 
 from the consolidation of the federal union, we must feel ourselves 
 impelled by the most commanding motives, to proceed in our 
 honorable career, by perfecting with all possible expedition thi$ 
 inland navigation. 
 
 " At the present period a ton of commodities can be convey- 
 ed from Buffalo to Albany by land for $100, and to Montreal, 
 principally by water, for 25. Hence it is obvious that the whole 
 of the vast region to the west of that flourishing village, and the 
 greater part of the extensive and fertile country east of it, are 
 prevented from sending their productions to our commercial 
 emporium, and that they must either resort to the precarious 
 
ADDENDA NO. XI^ GOV. CLINTON'S MESSAGE. 
 
 markets of Canada, or, to places more distant, less accessible; or 
 less advantageous. When the great western canal is finished, 
 the expense of transportation from Buffalo to Albany, will not 
 exceed |10 a ton. Almost the whole of the ascending trade of 
 the west will be derived from the city of New- York, and a great 
 portion of the descending products will accumulate in that im- 
 portant depot. If half a million of tons are, at the present pe- 
 riod, transported on the waters of the Hudson river, it is reason- 
 able to suppose that the time is not distant, when the commodi- 
 ties conveyed on the Canals will be equal in amount. A small 
 transit duty will consequently produce an immense income, ap- 
 plicable to the speedy extinguishment of the debt contracted for 
 the Canals, and to the prosecution of other important improve- 
 ments. 
 
 " In these works, then, we behold the operation of a powerful 
 engine of finance, and of a prolific source of revenue. 
 
 " It is certainly more important, that the productive classes of 
 Society should have good markets, out of the state, than that they 
 should be exclusively confined to indifferent or fluctuating mar- 
 kets in it. In the former case, wealth is diffused over the whole 
 country, while in the latter, it is limited to a very few towns. A 
 wise government ought to encourage communications with those 
 places, where the farmer and manufacturer can sell at the high- 
 est, and buy at the lowest prices. And, as the acquisition of ma- 
 ny markets encreases the chance of good ones, and diminishes, 
 in many instances, the expences of transportation, and guards 
 against the pernicious fluctuations of price, I look forward with 
 pleasure to the speedy arrival of the time, when the state will be 
 able to improve the navigation of the Susquehanna, the Allegany, 
 the Genesee, and St. Lawrence — to assist in connecting the wa- 
 ters of the great lakes and of the Mississippi — to form a junction- 
 between the western Canal and lake Ontario by the Oswego river, 
 and to promote the laudable intention of Pennsylvania, to unite 
 the Seneca lake with the head waters of the Susquehanna." 
 
 The calculation contained in these extracts, of the time neces- 
 sary to complete the Grand Canal between Albany and Buffalo* 
 and the canal from the Hudson river to lake Champlain, are 
 founded upon data, that are too well based to admit either refuta- 
 tion or cavil. If the state of New-York is left by the nation at 
 
I 
 
 <JOV. CHNTON ? S MESSAGE. [AI>1ȣN1>A N0. Si* 
 
 large to carry into effect this mighty project, unaided, and in 
 some measure opposed ; and should a single state, thus placed* 
 actually effect such an undertaking, the result will exhibit the most 
 extraordinary instance of the energy of a small part, and the 
 npathy of the residue of the people of the United States, that has 
 yet met the eye of mankind. Such an issue, will be glorious in- 
 deed to New- York, but shameful to the nation ; it will be a tri- 
 umph of active reason, over inert prejudice. But In such modes 
 and manner ; in the struggle of science against prescriptive 
 opinion, has the progress of mankind hitherto advanced. The 
 Grand Canal will bean eternal monument erected to the memory 
 of its projectors and executors ; and the most solacing reflection, 
 that presses upon the mind when contemplating this unequalled 
 change made upon the physiognomy of nature, is, that not one 
 drop of this artificial flood will be drained from the tears of suf- 
 fering humanity. When the present generations have passed 
 away, and when the future voyager is wafted along the picturesque 
 vale of the Mohawk, amid all that can decorate the earth and de- 
 light the senses, he will recall with unmixed admiration the names 
 of those whose genius procured such benefieeuce to t,he men ot 
 every passing age: 
 
4$Mtt£N0A NO. JH.«] BAtLSTON SPRINGS* 
 
 no. in, 
 
 BALLSTON SPRINGS. 
 
 It was with much regret that on my return to Albany* I coukl 
 iiot spare time to visit Ballston. Curiosity to see one of the mosfc 
 noted places of public resort in the United States, would have 
 led me to that village, and over its environs, but calk of a more 
 imperative nature, deprived me of such a pleasure. The fol- 
 lowing letter contains very satisfactory information respecting 
 those celebrated waters? and from its source is entitled to full 
 confidence. 
 
 " Ballston-Spct, November 27, 181 8. 
 
 " The name of Ballston, though frequently applied to the 
 village at the mineral springs, belongs in strictness to a township 
 about five miles square, the north boundary of which falls within, 
 and embraces a part of the village ; the principal portion of 
 which lies, within the adjacent township of Milton. 
 
 a This village was incorporated in 1807, by the name of Ballsr- 
 ton-Spa, is under the government of three Trustees, annually 
 chosen, and invested with certain privileges, fpr the better regu- 
 lation of its own peculiar concerns, though for civil purposes geiir 
 erally, a part thereof acts with the town of Ballston, and a part 
 with the town of Milton. 
 
 * The distinction between Ballston and Ballston-Spa, ought to he 
 carefully observed by all wljo have occasion to correspond with 
 visitants at these celebrated waters ; a post-office being establish- 
 ed, not only at this place but also in the town of Baliston, at 
 some distance from the village. A similar observation might be 
 made with respect to Saratoga, and Saratoga Springs. 
 
 " The village of Ballston-Spa is in the county of Saratoga, 26 
 miles north of the city of Albany, in a beautiful and romantic 
 situation. It lies within and along side of a valley, through 
 which flows a stream of water, emptying itself immediately be- 
 low the village, into the Kayadarosseras creek. Tins valley com- 
 mences at the south- wcsU where the stream, which had previously 
 
ill 
 
 BALLSTON SPRINGS. 
 
 [ADDENDA NO. flf. 
 
 flowed towards the south, fetches a short compass round a point 
 of' land towards the north east, runs some distance in that direc- 
 tion, then turns and passes off towards the east. The valley fol- 
 lows the course of the creek, is narrow at first ; hut after it has 
 taken an eastern direction, its north bank suddenly recedes, and 
 forms a beautiful plain, opening to view the Kayadarosseras and 
 its buildings. The north-west side of the valley is bordered by 
 sand hills, high and very steep. At the south-west end commen- 
 ces a smooth and gentle ridge of land, which runs east, sloping 
 towards the north, until making a gradual circuit, it turns its in- 
 clining surface towards the west. The termination of this slope 
 is the curving bank of the valley along its south-eastern side, on 
 which bank the greater part of the village is built. The high 
 sand hills on the north-west, the ridge of land on the south and 
 east, with the 'open plain on the north-east, form the natural boun- 
 daries of the vi llage. 
 
 u This village contains 112 houses, exclusive of out-houses, 
 some of which being attached to taverns and large hotels, are 
 extensive, and add considerably to the village. The number of 
 inhabitants is 614. It is a place of considerable business through- 
 out the year ; the lands in the neighborhood, with the exception 
 of the pine plains towards the north, being generally fertile, and 
 the trade of the inhabitants centering here. There are at pre- 
 sent six large stores for the sale of dry goods and groceries, an 
 extensive hardware and two druggist stores ; two printing offices, 
 and a bookstore, with which is connected, for the accommodation 
 of strangers, a Circulating library and a reading room. On the 
 Kayadarosseras, a large and never failing stream, mills for vari- 
 ous purposes, with a cupola furnace have been erected, at a little 
 distance from, and within sight of the village. The court-house 
 for the county of Saratoga is located here, and is a large brick 
 edifice, newly erected and well built. We have also two houses 
 for public worship, an Episcopal and a Baptist church, in which 
 respectable congregations statedly assemble ; likewise an Acade- 
 my, in which a numerous and reputable school is constantly 
 taught. The inhabitants are intelligent, industrious, frugal, ami 
 remarkably temperate. A moderate degree of refinement and 
 fashion prevails* Regularity and good order exist to a consider- 
 
ADDENDA NO. III.] BALLSTON SPRINGS. 
 
 tiii 
 
 able degree, though as to religion and morality, it must be coiv 
 fessed, we fall much below the christian standard. 
 
 This place is famous for its mineral waters, which with those 
 of Saratoga near by, have attracted uncommon attention, and 
 annually draw great numbers from all parts to visit them, in the 
 summer season. Hence in addition to several inns, there are 
 three large boarding houses* expressly designed for the acconi 
 modation of strajigers, at the season of general resort. The 
 largest of these, the Sans Souci Hotel, will vie with any establish- 
 ment of a similar nature, for the style in which it~is4q?nt, and as 
 a spacious, airy, and commodious building. It presents^ front 
 three stories high, and i60 feet in length, extends back in a wing 
 at each end 153 feet, is surrounded by a spacious and beautiful 
 yard, which, with its extensive piazzas, large hail, and spacious 
 assembly-room, render it a delightful place. Here the rich, gay, 
 and fashionable, resort in crowds, during the months of July and 
 August. It is calculated for the reception of 130 boarders, and 
 frequently exceeds that number. Next to the San Souci, Al- 
 dridge's boarding-house is the most noted* It stands in the val- 
 ley, at the foot of a high sand hill, nearly opposite the public* 
 and formerly the principal spring, and is handsomely bordered 
 on the east and south by a court-yard and garden, by the side of 
 which flows the rivulet of the valley. The building itself is not 
 elegant, yet the reputation of the house is deservedly high, and 
 draws to it its full share of public patronage. 
 
 # Ballston-Spa. — By the Register kept at the Reading Room at 
 Ballston Springs, (says the Commercial Advertiser)it appears that 
 the number of persons who have visited those Springs, during the 
 past season, 1818, amounts to two thousand five hundred. Of 
 this number more than twelve hundred, it is stated, live south of 
 New- York. It is also stated, that the whole number were accom- 
 modated with board and lodging as follows : 
 
 [It is fair to calculate that the average expenditure at the 
 above place, was 50 dollars a piece — In this case the sum tots* 
 is 125,000 dollars.]— Gaz. 
 
 At J. B. Aldridge's 
 At Sans Souci Hotel 
 At David Cory's 
 At other houses 
 
 950 
 800 
 500 
 25© 
 
 Total 2,500 
 
 V 
 
liv ballston springs. [addenda no. III. 
 
 The tlii vd Targe boarding-house is Corey's, formerly Mrs. 
 White's. It stands at the head of the valley, on the ridge of land, 
 -which runs along the south side of tlie village. The building and 
 its accommodations rank with Aldridge's, yet being in a situation 
 more retired and remote from the springs, though highly pleasain 
 and agreeable, it is less known and less frequented. 
 
 The existence of this village, is owing entirely to the mineral 
 springs, which hi this favored spot, rise up from the bowels of the 
 earth. These, exclusive of a sulphur spring which has attracted 
 little or no attention, were but lately two in number, one on the 
 private property of Nicholas Low, Esq. over which he has erec- 
 ted a handsome bathing-house, and the other in the public high- 
 way, nearly opposite Alldridge's boarding-house. According t« 
 Mead's Analysis, which sustains a high reputation, the public 
 
 well contains in one quart of water : 
 
 Grains, 
 
 Muriat of Soda 42 
 
 Muriat of Magnesia - 1 3-4 
 
 Muriat of Lime - - - 3 1-4 
 
 Carbonate of Magnesia - * - 113-4 
 
 Carbonate of Lime - - •» 9 1-4 
 
 Oxide of Iron, - - - - - 1 
 
 Total, 69 
 
 Of aeriform fluids : Cubic Inches. 
 
 Carbonic acid gas - - - 6 1 
 
 Azotic gas - - - - - 2 1-2 
 
 Total, 63 1-2 
 
 And Low's well contains exactly the same ingredients, in near- 
 ly the same quantities. 
 
 " The natural appearance of these springs is curious and pleas- 
 ing; their waters are in continual agitation, are perfectly trans- 
 parent, and have a saline, pungent, and to those accustomed to 
 them, a- most agreeable taste. They possess a stimulating and 
 refreshing quality. Under the exhaustion of heat and fatigue, 
 rrothing can be more agreeable and reviving to the system. As 
 powerful remedies also, in 4iiany cases of disease, they are well 
 known and highly celebrated. 
 
ADDENDA NO. III.] 
 
 BALLSTQN SPRINGS. 
 
 " These springs, however curious and excellent as they really 
 are, have been recently eclipsed by a new spring, which little 
 more than a year since burst from the earth. In the month of 
 August, 1817, continual rains had swollen the creek, which passes 
 through this place, to a very great height, and produced a destruc- 
 tive flood. In the centre of the village, the furious stream cut for 
 itself a new course, and a few rods lower down, it again diverted 
 a little from its former channel, which upon the subsiding of the 
 water was left dry. In this deserted channel, which a few years 
 ago had been artificially made for the purpose of turning the 
 creek from its natural course, veins of mineral water were soon 
 discovered issuing up through the sand, and forming on the sur- 
 face a large fountain. As the water rose through a deep bed of 
 loose gravel, blue clay, and quicksand, was foul, discoloured, and 
 mingled with large quantities of fresh water; great difficulties 
 were apprehended in getting it into a state proper for use. This 
 object, however^ has been happily accomplished, and in a simple 
 and easy manner. Two tubes have been forced down to differ 
 tint depths, through which rise waters differing considerably in 
 their qualities, and constituting in fact two new springs. The 
 lirst tube was sunk to the depth of fourteen feet, is on a level with 
 the surrounding earth, and being not perfectly tight at the top, 
 never overflows with water. The depth of the second tube below 
 the surface of the earth, is twenty-throe feet, and into it an addi- 
 tional tube five feet long has been inserted, through the whole of 
 which length, that is, twenty-eight feet, the water rises to the sur- 
 face, boiling and sparkling in the most curious and l>eautiful man* 
 ner, and falling down in every direction over the sides of the tube. 
 These springs*, especially the latter, it has been proposed to call 
 the Washington fountain ; and they are commonly distinguished 
 from each other by the descriptive appellations of the low and 
 the high tube. 
 
 u With regard to the qualities of these waters, I cannot do bet- 
 ter than to make a few extracts from a letter, published in the 
 New- York Evening Post, of the 26th of September last, written 
 hy Dr. Mead> to the Editor of that paper. 
 
 6 I have found,' saith he, ' that the Washington fountain (mean- 
 nig thereby the high tube,) contains more carbonic acid gas, than 
 my other mineral spring which has ever been examined in t\m 
 
M BALLSTON STRINGS. [ADDENDA NO. 111. 
 
 country, and certainly much more than any in Europe of which 
 we have any correct account : — one quart of this water, or 55,750 
 cubic inches of it, contains nearly 76 cubic inches of this gas. 
 The adjoining well does not contain any thing like the same quan- 
 tity of gas. 
 
 i The next valuable qualities which these springs possess, arise 
 from the quantity of iron which they contain, held in solution by 
 the carbonic acid. According to my former analysis of the Bal&- 
 ston and Saratoga waters, I never found any of them to contain 
 more than one grain of iron in a quart, but I think I may ven- 
 ture to state, from actual experiments, that the Washington foun- 
 tain contains nearly double that quantity ; but the adjoining 
 spring not quite so much. 
 
 6 With respect to the saline contents of these springs, they d& 
 not differ materially in quality from those waters at Ballston, the 
 analysis of which I have given to the public. None of them con- 
 tain sulphats; in this they differ from most mineral waters; their 
 cathartic properties, therefore, are derived principally from the 
 muriut of soda, or common salt, with which they are impregnat- 
 ed. The Washington fountain, however, contains less of this sail 
 than any of the springs either at Ballston or Saratoga, while the 
 adjoining spring contains much more than any of them, except 
 the Congress spring 
 
 1 The Washington Fountain is so highly charged with carbonic 
 acid gas, and contains also so much iron, that it may be ranked 
 in the first class of tonic remedies ; but at the same time, it is one 
 the use of which requires much caution. It possesses all the 
 good qualities which are attributed either to the waters of the 
 Seltzer or Pyrmont, and some of them in a superior degree. It 
 is superior to the Seltzer or Spa, in containing iron, in which they 
 are both deficient; and it differs materially from the Pyrmont, m 
 containing a sufficient quantity of muriate of Soda, to act as a 
 cooling febrifuge, and to counteract, in some degree, the heating 
 and stimulating qualities of the other ingredients, which, in some 
 constitutions, would totally forbid the use of them. I have never 
 as yet met with, nor have I heard of any water that so nearly 
 resembles the waters of Germany, as the Washington fountain- 
 It may be drank with great advantage in all cases of general de^ 
 bility, whe^e there is great relaxation and loss of tone j and pas*- 
 ticularly in diseases of the stomach.* 
 
ADDENDA NO. Ill .J BALLSTON SPRINGS, 
 
 Ivii 
 
 " Of the adjoining spring, that is the low tube, Doctor Mead 
 remarks, that it 6 has been found to possess very powerful purga- 
 tive qualities, and may be considered as a sort of intermediate 
 between the waters of Ballston and Saratoga, It is evidently, 
 even to the taste, more saline than any of the springs at Ballston? 
 or than any, excepting one, at Saratoga ; and I have found by 
 analysis, that it contains nearly one-fifth more of muriate of 
 soda or common salt, than any oilier, except that one ; and be- 
 sides, possesses in the same proportion, all the other ingredients, 
 such as carbonate of magnesia, carbonate of lime, and iron. 
 It cannot therefore be doubted, that it becomes a very active pur- 
 gative, sufficiently effectual to answer almost all useful purposes, 
 particularly if drank under proper management, and with due 
 precaution ; the neglect of which will not only prevent the Con- 
 gress water from having the desired effect, but render too free a 
 use of it highly injurious to the system.' 
 
 " Of a place abounding with such invaluable waters, the geol- 
 ogy must be interesting. As that, however, is a science to >\I ich 
 I make no pretensions, I beg leave again to refer to Doctor Mead, 
 whose observations upon this subject, may be found in the intro- 
 ductory part of his chemical analysis of the waters of Uallstoii 
 and Saratoga, from which the following extracts are made. 
 
 < In the center of the village of Ballston, an excellent oppor- 
 tunity is offered of examining the situation of the strata. A 
 small rivulet runs through it, which has laid bare an entire range 
 of floetz or horizontal rocks, consisting of what may be called a 
 calcario argillaceous schist or shale. This schist is nearly of a 
 black colour, and from its staining the fingers, would appear to 
 contain a portion of carbon ; it effervesces slightly with acids, 
 which shews that it also contains carbonate of lime ; it breaks 
 easily into lamina? of any thickness, and impressions of vegeta- 
 bles, chiefly of a species of grass, can be observed between the 
 lamina? ; but when large masses are exposed for any length of 
 lime to the atmosphere, it rapidly shivers, or decomposes.' 
 
 { Alternating with this schist, and near the same place, wher- 
 ever the beds of sand wiH admit an inspection of the rock, solid 
 masses of calcareous rocks are observed. This limestone is near- 
 ly of a black colour, its fracture is slaty, it abounds with shells of 
 various forms, some of which are so very apparent in their struo 
 ture and form, as not to be mistaken. 
 
BALLSTON SPRINGS. 
 
 [ADDENDA NO. lift 
 
 i Besides these rocks which I have attempted to describe ^ and 
 which characterise a secondary country, it is necessary to state 
 that those undulating hills which surround the village of Ballston, 
 and which continue to prevail in the village of Saratoga, are 
 Forme'd principally of immense beds of fine siliceous sand, as 
 in ay be particularly observed irt the rear of Aldridge's boarding- 
 house, where the height of one of these hills, which is very pre- 
 cipitous, cannot be less than 150 feet ; under this sand lies im- 
 mense beds of stiff blue clay, which hardens when left for any 
 time exposed to the atmosphere ; it effervesces slightly, but does 
 not dissolve in acids, from which I should rather call it an argil- 
 laceous marie ; it appears with some probability to have been 
 formed by the decomposition of the schist in the neighborhood ; 
 it is to be found by digging in the valleys in any direction, and it 
 can be well observed on the side of a declivity near Lowe's well 3 
 where a considerable saline efflorescence can be seen on its sur- 
 face, particularly after rain, owing to the chrystallization of the 
 salt, which is produced by the sun's rays. This is a very interest- 
 ing fact, and as exactly such a peculiar species of clay is found 
 to prevail in the soil from which the waters of Cheltenham arise, 
 it may tend in some degree to explain from whence waters of this 
 description receive their saline impregnation. 
 
 * No metallic veins of ore have been discovered in this neigh* 
 borhood in any direction ; and except iron, which is found in all 
 the low grounds, in the state of an argillaceous or bog iron ore, I 
 know of no other metaiic deposit.' 
 
 H This village, though now considerable, will probably still in- 
 crease, and receive additional improvements. The waters, with 
 those of Saratoga, are unrivalled, and may be confidently expect- 
 ed to draw increasing crowds of visitants. The new springs are a 
 most valuable acquisition, and contiguous to them is an extensive 
 brick edifice, originally intended as a factory, but now unemploy- 
 ed, which, with capital and enterprise, might be converted into a 
 superb boarding-house, which doubtless would be filled with 
 guests, and prove not only an ornament to the village, but a 
 profitable establishment. 
 
 With sentiments of respect, 
 
 Yours. 
 REUBEN SEARS. 
 
 Willi Ay Darby. 
 
ADDENDA NO. IV.] 
 
 ROUTES. 
 
 ROUTE FROM THE CITY OF NEW- YORK TO ST. LOUIS, 
 
 BY HAMILTON; £ITTSBURG, CINCINNATI, LOUISVILLE. AND THE OHIO 
 AND MISSISSIPPI RIVERS. 
 
 MILES, 
 
 Newburg, - 
 
 
 
 
 
 GO 
 
 6$ 
 
 Coehecton, 
 
 
 
 
 
 120 
 
 Hamilton, - 
 
 
 
 
 
 294 
 
 3 54 
 
 PITTSBURG, 
 
 
 
 
 
 261 
 
 (3 ! 5 
 
 Steuben vi lie, 
 
 
 
 
 
 59 
 
 674 
 
 Cincinnati, 
 
 
 
 
 
 3 6 3 
 
 1037 
 
 Louisville, 
 
 
 
 
 
 131 
 
 1 1 67 
 
 Moutb of Ohio, 
 
 
 
 
 
 393 
 
 1560 
 
 ST. LOUIS, 
 
 
 
 
 
 198 
 
 1758 
 
 ROUTE FROM THE CITY OF NEW-YORK TO ST. LOUIS, 
 
 J?Y ALBANY, BUFFALO, DETROIT, M I C H f L I M A K I N A C , LAKE MICHIGAN, 
 ILLINOIS, AND MISSISSIPPI RIVERS. 
 
 MILES. 
 
 Albany, 
 
 w * - 
 
 
 160 
 
 Canandaigua, - 
 
 
 2 ! 3 
 
 373 
 
 Buffalo, 
 
 
 92 
 
 465 
 
 Erie, 
 
 m I' - 
 
 90 
 
 555 
 
 Cleveland, - 
 
 
 90 
 
 645 
 
 DETROIT, - 
 
 
 1 10 
 
 755 
 
 Fort Gratiot, - 
 
 
 67 
 
 822 
 
 Michilimakinac, 
 
 
 190 
 
 1012 
 
 Mouth of Chicago 
 
 ll ver, 
 
 280 
 
 1292 
 
 Head of Illinois 
 
 do. - 
 
 40 
 
 1332 
 
 Mouth of do. - 
 
 
 400 
 
 1732 
 
 ST. LOUIS, - 
 
 
 30 
 
 • 1762 
 
 It will be at once seen by an inspection of this table, that the 
 difference in distance, by the two routes, is trifling ; and, all things 
 considered, no great diversity exists naturally in the facility offer- 
 ed, or impediments opposed to mercantile transportation; but 
 with the Grand Canal from Albany to Buffalo, the advantages are 
 obviously in favor of the northern route. 
 
ABDENDA NO* V.] 
 
 GRAND CANAL- 
 
 NO. V. 
 
 The following very valuable letter came to hand this morning, 
 (Wednesday; January 20th.) I rejoice to have it in my power to 
 include its contents in my Addenda. Those persons who are ac- 
 quainted with Mr. Briggs, will appreciate the information thus con- 
 veyed on the interesting subject of internal improvements, the 
 more, as little doubt can be harbored as to the judgment, and no 
 suspicion can be fostered against the veracity of the author. 
 
 W. D. 
 
 u Albany, 1st mo. 1819. 
 
 cr M\ r ESTEEMED FltlEND, 
 
 u I duly received, at the village of Herkimer, thy favor of 2 2d 
 ult. requesting information of the actual state and progress of 
 the work on the Canals of the state of New- York, and that I would 
 promptly answer the following queries : 
 
 6 1st. How much of the Canals is actually completed ? 
 
 c 2d. What places are connected by the parts which are finished ? 
 
 c 3d. The names of the Engineers employed, and where ? 
 
 c 4th. Any other circumstances that you may deem of impor- 
 tance respecting the Canals ?' 
 
 u At the time I received thy letter I was engaged, almost night 
 and day, in making laborious calculations for a detailed report to 
 the Board of Canal Commissioners ; and, fearing that the short 
 space of time until this report ought to be presented would scarcely 
 admit of my doing justice to the subject, I requested my friend 
 David Holt to make to thee my apology, for the delay of my 
 answer, which I found to be unavoidable. 1 now embrace with 
 pleasure the first opportunity, which my arduous duties have 
 permitted, to answer thy queries. 
 
 " lmo. Portions of the Canals amounting to 65 miles are actu- 
 ally completed — 46 1-2 miles of the Western, and 18 1-2 miles of 
 the Northern ; 15 miles more are half done, and there is as much 
 work performed on the remaining parts, as is quite equal to the 
 finishing of those 15 miles, making an aggregate equal to 80 mite 
 of finished CanaL 
 
Ixll riRAND CANAL. [ADDENDA NO. V. 
 
 " 2do. No important places are yet connected by the parts 
 finished, on account of some works not completed crossing 
 streams in the Western, and Jocks in the Northern Canal. Btit 5 
 in the course of next season, Whitehall on lake Champlain, will 
 be connected with Fort Edward on Hudson's river, bv 23 miles 
 of Canal \ and the salt-works at Onondaga with Utica on the 
 Mohawk, by 60 miles. Between Utica and Onondaga, the Canal 
 passes inexhaii&tible beds of the finest gypsum ; so that, unless 
 the weather should be beyond probability unfavorable, or some 
 other improbable occurrence, 83 miles of Canal will, before the 
 close of next season, begin to yield revenue. 
 
 " Stio. The Engineers are Benjamin Wright, James Geddes, 
 and Isaac Briggs ; Canvass White, James Ferguson, Valentine 
 Gil!, and Asa Moore, have also been employed. I believe Canvass 
 White has been placed in the rank of Engineer, and James Fer- 
 guson still remains an assistant. Valentine Gill has been em- 
 ployed as a Draftsman, and Asa Moore as Surveyor. During the 
 late season Wright and White have been employed on the middle 
 section of the Western Canal ; Geddes and Ferguson on the 
 Northern ; and Briggs, Gill, and Moore, in exploring and locating 
 the Canal and its locks, on the Eastern section, from Utica down 
 the valley of the Mohawk. 
 
 " 4to. In my answer to the 2d query, I have said, that 83 
 miles of Canal will, before the close of next season, begin to yield 
 revenue. I will here add, that, in fair probability, the season 
 after next, (1820,) may commence with an active navigation on 
 117 miles of Canal ; and, if the legislature should, at their present 
 session, authorise the whole of the Western Canal to be made as 
 speedily as it can be economically done, there may be, at the close 
 of 1820, many miles more in great forwardness, and the whole 
 Canal may be finished, before the close of 1825, as easily as, and 
 at a smaller expense, than in any longer period. 
 
 " By a sound and prudent fiscal management, no burdens on the 
 people, beyond the present taxes, and these only for one year 
 more, will be necessary to accomplish this noble work. 
 
 u When the expense of a great project is previously estimated, it 
 usually happens that, after the thing is finished, the actual ex- 
 pense greatly exceeds the estimate. In the whole work hitherto 
 done, the contrary is found to be the fact, and an animating fact 
 
Addenda no. v.] 
 
 GRAND CANAL. 
 
 Ixiii 
 
 it is, the actual expense falls considerably short of the general 
 estimate made in 1817, when the subject was proposed to the 
 legislature. Although experience afforded such encouragement 
 in the middle section, yet there remained doubts respecting the 
 Eastern section, where probably the greatest difficulties exist. I 
 Jiave, during the late season, carefully and minutely examined 40 
 miles of this section, which portion includes some of the principal 
 difficulties, and it is my decided opinion, that this portion of the 
 Canal can be made for an expense averaging 16 per cent, or 2,700 
 dollars per mile, less than the estimate of the Commissioners. 
 
 " I have said that, after one year more of the present taxes, no 
 burdens on the people will be necessary for the Canal. Suppose 
 no more than 120,000 tons to be transported in one year, a dis- 
 tance of 1 17 miles, at a toil of 1 cent per ton per mile, this would 
 yield 140,400 dollars, the interest of 2,340,000, at 6 per cent. 
 Every succeeding year would add more freight, and bring into 
 use an additional portion of Canal The consequences are so 
 obvious, that I am persuaded it is unnecessary to pursue further 
 the calculation. A stimulus to useful industry and an increase 
 of individual happiness — the extension and enlargement of all 
 the resources of the state — an accelerated augmentation of its 
 population, wealth, and power — and, instead of burdens, an abun- 
 dant revenue $ these would be the consequences of a liberal and 
 enlightened policy. 
 
 " Respectfully, thy friend, 
 
 « ISAAC BRiGGS, 
 
 rf WiLLrAM Darby." 
 
JVote, ad. signifies Addenda. 
 
 A. 
 
 Abino, point 171, note 172. 
 
 Albany, author arrives there, p, 
 9; aspect of the country be- 
 tween and Kinderhook, p. 3*, 
 35 ; fine view of, ib. 
 
 Alloueites, Point des, 97, note. 
 
 Amherstburg, p. 101, note ; de 
 scribed, 193. 
 
 Amsterdam, village of, p. 45. 
 
 Andre, Major, p. 14. 
 
 Arnold, General, p. 14. 
 
 Ashtabula river, 209. 
 
 Athens, village of, p. 27. 
 
 Auburn, village of, 212, 2 18 ; cen- 
 sus of, ib. note 5 state prison 
 at, 218 
 
 Audrain, Peter, Register of the 
 land office at Detroit, supplies 
 the author with a manuscript 
 map of part of the Michigan 
 territory, 191. 
 
 B. 
 
 Batavia, village of, 154. 
 Ballston, road to, 44. 
 
 Spa, li. ad. 
 
 Bay de Nivernois, now Sack.et's 
 Harbor, 70. 
 
 Chaurnout, 71. 
 
 Barclay, Commodore, defeated 
 by Commodore Perry, 211. 
 
 Bass Islands, 184, 185. 
 
 Black river, at Watertown, 68 ; 
 at Brownville, 69 ; its rapidi- 
 ty, ib. 
 
 Black Rock, 138. 
 
 Bloomjield, village of, 1 52 ; coun- 
 try near, its features, 153, 
 
 Boi$ Blanch Isfrndj 193. 
 
 Booth's Factory, 2 1 . 
 
 Bonchette, Mr. Joseph, quoted, 
 86, 87, 92, 116, 203, 205. 
 
 Boundary line, between the Uni- 
 ted States, and Upper Catt&da. 
 proceedings on, 87. 
 
 Breck, Mr. Samuel, 1 38. 
 
 Bridge, over Wappinger's creek, 
 20. 
 
 over Kinderhook creek. 
 
 30. 
 
 — — over the Mohawk river^ 
 at Schenectady, 43. 
 
 over west Canada, 54. 
 
 over Deer river, 66. 
 
 over Black river at Wa~ 
 
 69 
 
 tertown, 68 ; at Brownville, 
 at the Falls of Niagara, 
 
 166. 
 
 over Cayuga lake, 215. 
 Briggs, Mr. Isaac, information 
 obtained from, respecting the 
 Little Falls, 49 ; gives the au- 
 thor the latitude of Utica, and 
 the variation of the magnetic 
 needle at that village, 55 $ let- 
 ter from him respecting the 
 Grand Canal, lxi. ad. 
 Brock, General, his death, 169. 
 Brockville, town of, 7, 105 note. 
 
 107 note. 
 Brown, General Jacob, his resi- 
 dence, 69 ; wounded, 169 ; his 
 military career, where com- 
 menced, xliv. 'ad. 
 Brown, Samuel R., quoted 203. 
 Byron, Lord, quoted, 1 64 note. 
 Buffalo, village of, 137. 155 ; 
 
 X 
 
IMJEX. 
 
 & reek ruear, 156; harbor of, 
 it. 157 ; destroyed, 170 ; road 
 from Fort George to, 170 ; 
 farther reflections upon its 
 harbor, 171. 
 Burgoyne, General, his marcl 
 towards Albany, 24 ; surren 
 ders liis arrnv, 25. 
 
 %. 
 
 Canada creek, east, 47. 
 
 creek, west, 53. 
 
 Upper, prov ince of, 74 ; 
 
 observations and reflections on 
 
 76, 87 5 its climate misunder 
 
 stood, 121. 
 
 %}afial, between Seneca lake and Chatauque lake, 175 
 
 Cfapi A Wen PaWrMge, 26", 
 note ; where seen to most ad- 
 vantage, 26 ; covered with 
 snow, May 3d, 1818, 27 note; 
 seen from Columbiaville, 31 ; 
 from Albany, 35 ; from Troy, 
 36 ; their peculiar range, 226. 
 Cater skill Falls , 33. 
 Cuyug a c 1 eek , 156. 
 
 village, 214. 
 lake^2 15. 
 bridge, ib. 
 Cayahoga river, 178. 
 Cazenovia creek, 156. 
 
 village, 212, 220. 
 
 Tioga river, 136 note. 
 
 grand, in the state of 
 
 New-York, 160, xxxiv. ad. 
 
 by Chatauque lake, 175 
 
 Channwnt, Mr. Ray de, quoted,64 
 note. 
 
 bay, 71. 
 
 Canadaway, 174. 
 
 Canandaigua, village of, 131; de- 
 scribed, 133 ; population, ib, 
 note ; road from to Buffalu 
 212, 215 ; revisited by the au- 
 thor, 212; observations upon, 
 213. 
 
 lake of, 131, 133, 134 
 
 Ghenal Ecurte, 202, 205. 
 Chenango river, 220, 221. 
 Cherry Valley, village of, 2\%9 
 222. 
 
 Chippewa river, 1 60 ; battle of # 
 
 169 ; river described, 203. 
 Claverack creek, 29, 30. 
 Cleveland, village, 178, 179. 
 Cllnion, Governor, his inaugural 
 discourse, 42 ; description of 
 the Little Falls, 48 ; extracts 
 from his address, xlviii. ad. 
 
 Canards, riviere aux, 193. 
 Cape Rosier, 1 1 2. 
 Cass, Governor, 196; concludes 
 
 a treaty with several Indian Columbiaville. 80 5 scenery near, 
 tribes, ib. note. 
 Carthage, curiosity near, 128 
 Cataract, of Caterskili, 33. 
 
 . of the Cohoes, 38. 
 
 Little Falls, 48. 
 
 Niagara, 101, 161, 169. 
 
 Cunningham* s Island, 179. 
 I). 
 
 Danbury, township or peninsula, 
 181. 
 
 Deer river, 66. 
 
 of Velino, description of', Detroit, river of, 99. 
 
 by Lord Byron, quoted, 164 
 
 note. 
 
 of Seneca outlet. 2 1 4, 
 near Ithaca, 215 note. 
 
 Cattaraugus creek, 156. 
 
 Catskill, village of, 27, 32. 
 
 — L. — mom 'tains, (Catsbergs) 
 17 5 f A ne view of, from Rhine- 
 beck, 243 their elevation by 
 
 city of, 100 note, 137, 
 187, 200". 
 Dunkirk, bay and harbor descri- 
 bed, 173; prospects of future 
 prosperity, 1 76. 
 Dutchess county, N. Y. its as- 
 pect, 17 ; timber in imprudent- 
 dently destroyed, 18, 19; its 
 extent and population, 19. 
 
INDEX, 
 
 on, ib. ; extent and quantity 
 of water in, 117; destructive 
 storm on, 171 note; dangers 
 of its navigation, 172; dis 
 tance from lake Huron, 191. 
 fort, 168, 170. 
 
 E. I Canada, 76; proceedings re- 
 
 JBddy'S map of the state ojf New- spectmg, in the provincial le- 
 York; 134. gislature, 77 ; observations on, 
 
 . Erie, town of, 210 ; harbor, ib. ib. 
 
 lake of, 100 note ; storms Grand, or Ouse river in U. C. 
 
 described 100 note, 177, 203 
 Grand Inland, in Niagara rive"r 7 
 
 1 58, 159 note. 
 Grand Gallop Islands., 106 note ; 
 
 described, 1 24. 
 Granger, Mr. 
 Gratiot, Fort, 200. 
 Greene, General, 14. 
 Greene county, 32, 33. 
 Gros Isle, in Detroit river, de- 
 scribed, 192, 193. 
 
 H. 
 
 Hamilton, village of, on St. Law- 
 rence river, 87. 
 
 — — village of, on Allegany* 
 river, 7, 140. 
 Harrison, General, reconquers 
 
 Essex county, Upper Canada, 
 
 194, L95. 
 Esopus, see Kingston. 
 
 F. 
 
 Fall creek, 2 15. 
 Falls of St. Mary, 94. 
 
 — of Niagara, 10 i, 160. 
 
 — — — of Montmorency, 112. 
 
 — in Fall creek, 215 note. 
 
 Fair port, village of, at the mouth 
 
 of Grand river, 177. 
 Fire lands, tenure of from what 
 
 derived, 181; now forms part 
 
 of Huron county, ib. 
 Flax, its culture in Canada,, ad 
 
 xvi. xix. 
 FisJikill landing, 12. 
 
 — mountains, passage of the 
 
 Hudson river through, 9, 10 : 
 their component parts, 1 1 
 note ; their height measured 
 by Capt. Alden Partridge, 1 1 
 note, 12 ; scenery, 14. 
 
 Fredonia, formerly Canadaway, 
 174. 
 
 French of Canada, tlreir charac 
 ter, 86. 
 
 G. 
 
 Gelder, Dr. Van, his poem upon 
 
 Fort Putnam, 13 note. 
 Genesee river, 153 ; flats of, ib. 
 Geneva, village of, 129; descri 
 
 bed, 130; revisited by the au 
 
 thor, 212, 213. 
 Goat Island, 166 note. 
 Gourlay, Mr. Robert, reflections 
 
 upon his operations in Upper 
 
 Gideon, 2 K 
 
 Michigan territory, 1 87 j de- 
 feats General Proctor, ib.-, a* 
 gain, 211. 
 Hawkins, Colonel Samuel, his 
 fete champetre, on one of the 
 St. Law re« ce islands, 100 
 note. 
 
 Haines, C. G K esq. correspond 
 dence with the author, 135, 
 150. 
 
 Hen and Chickens, islands, 186. 
 Herkimer village, 54. 
 Highlands, a term used for the 
 passage of the Hudson river 
 through the Fishkill moun- 
 tains, 20. 
 History, reading of neglected in 
 the United States, 22; lessons 
 drawn from, 80, 81. 
 Hudson river, its aspect in winter 
 9 ; its passage through the Fish- 
 kill mountains, 9, 10, 11 ; did 
 not always flow into New- 
 York bay, 1 1 ; creeks of, 20 * 
 peculiar features, of its bank^ 
 23, 29. 
 
Hudson, town of, 27, 28, 29-. 
 Hull, General, reflections upon 
 
 his operations in the Michigan 
 
 territory, 188. 
 Huron river, in the state of Ohio, 
 
 182. 
 
 of lake Erie, 201. 
 
 — of lake St. Clair, 202 
 
 ■ lake, 95 ; communication 
 
 between and lake Ontario, 98. 
 
 99 note ; extent and quantity 
 
 of water, 11 7 ^ distance from 
 
 lake Erie, 191. 
 
 2. 
 
 Ithaca, village of, 216 note. 
 K. 
 
 Kinderkook creek, 29, 33. 
 
 village of, 33, 34. 
 
 Kingston, town of, in Upper Ca- 
 nada, 97 note; 104 
 — village of, 24 ; taken and 
 
 dian name for Fishkill, \6 
 note ; scenery on, ib.; Schenck 7 s 
 factory on, i 6. 
 Maumee bay, 208, 209 ; country 
 near compared to that upon 
 the gulf of Mexico, 209. 
 Mexican gulf, 209. 
 Michigan Lake, 95, 108, 117. 
 peninsula, 96 note, 
 territory, 96 note; popu- 
 
 lation of, 197, 200; geological 
 structure, i 98, 199; settle- 
 ments in, 200 • climate, ib, 
 Mingan settlement, 112. 
 Mississippi river, contrasted with 
 the St. Lawrence, 88, 90, 9 1 9 
 92. 
 
 Mohawk river, 42, 48, and se- 
 quel ; valley of near Utica^ 
 57 ; its features, 225. 
 
 burnt by the British, ib. , pre- 
 sent state of, 25 ; situation, ib, 
 Kirk 8f Mercein, Booksellers of Mountains, Fishkill, ll,andse 
 
 Montreal, city of, elegance of its 
 site, 109 note; population of^ 
 4 ; noticed, 137. 
 
 quel. 
 
 the city of New- York, their 
 edition of Cuvier's theory of 
 the Earth, 1 1 note ; 42, 
 X. 
 
 Lakes and rivers compared, 108 
 note. 
 
 Lay^s map of the state of New 
 York, 134. 
 
 Little Falls, 48 ; description of, 
 by Gov. Clinton, ib. note; sce- 
 nery near, 49, 52; changes 
 that this cataract has under- 
 gone, 52. 
 
 Louisville, town of, IS7. 
 
 tyons village, 129, 131. 
 M. 
 
 fllaitland, Sir Peregrine, Gover 
 nor of Upper Canada, proceed- 
 ings of, respecting Mr. Robert 
 *Gourlay, 77 
 
 Maiden, 193. 
 
 Manufactures, American, disad-j 
 
 vantages opposed to, 1 6, 2 1, 22 
 MaUowanf actory at, 16; In- Normans Kill, 227. 
 
 Catskill, (Catsbergs) 17 ; 
 seen from Hudson, 29 ; from 
 Columbiaville, 31 ; from Alba- 
 ny, 35 ; from Troy, 36. 
 Murder creek, 154. 
 
 N. 
 
 Natchitoches, 137; compared 
 with Detroit, 190; noticed. 
 137. 
 
 Newburg, its site, 10, 32. 
 New-Orleans, ship of the line on 
 the stocks at Sacket's Harbor, 
 observations on, 71, 72. 
 city of, 145, 189. 
 
 New-York, seasons at compared 
 
 to those at Albany, 9. 
 Niagara, cataract of, described 
 by Mr. Bouchette, 101. 
 
 by the author of this trea- 
 
 tise, 160, 169. 
 
 _ river, 102. 
 
 fort, 170. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 o. 
 
 Ogdensburgh, village of descri- 
 bed, 7, 73, 74, 87, 106. 
 
 Ogden's Island, 87, 12 t. 
 
 Ogilvie, Colonel, his observations 
 respecting the St. Lawrence 
 and Ottawa rivers, 93 note, 9 6 
 note. 
 
 Ohio river, contrasted with the 
 St. Lawrence, 74, 145. 
 
 state of, boundary between 
 
 and Pennsylvania, 177; range 
 of the Erie ridge through, 182. 
 
 Olean, or Hamilton, on the Alle- 
 gany river, 145 ; trausit of 
 merchandise between and tho 
 city of New- York, ib. note. 
 
 Ontario, lake, 102 ; its depth, 103 
 104, 108 notes; noticed 109 
 note, 127; recession of, 128 
 note; noticed, 129; interest- 
 ing features of, xliv. ad. 
 
 Oppenheirn, village of, 47. 
 
 Orleans, island of, 1 13. 
 
 New, city, 145, 1S9. 
 
 Oswego river, 104, 217. 
 
 Ottawa river, 93, 97, note. 
 
 Otisco lake, 220, 221. 
 
 Owasco lake, 2 18. 
 
 Ouse or Grand river, 177, 203. 
 P. 
 
 Palatine, village of, 46. 
 
 Painesville, village of, 178. 
 
 Partridge, Capt. Alden, meas- 
 ures Uie height of Fishkil! 
 mountains, 11 note; those of 
 the Catsbergs, 26 note; some 
 others, ib. 
 
 Peninsula, between Sandusky and 
 Portage rivers, and extending 
 between Sandusky bay and the 
 Bass Islands, 179; described. 
 180,181. 
 
 Perry, Commodore, 171 note; 
 captures a British squadron on 
 lake Erie, 185 ; the vessels of 
 both flecis now in Eric harbor, 
 Sit. 
 
 Pike, General, his grave, xliv, ad. 
 
 Pirn lands upon the Hudson, 33, 
 34; compared with those of 
 Louisiana, Alabama, and Mis- 
 sissippi, ib. j their sterile as- 
 pect, 38. 
 
 Faitghkeejysie, town of, 21; 
 Booth's factory at, ib. 
 
 Prescott, town of, 7, K)7 note. 
 
 Proctor, General, defeated by 
 General Harrison, 211. 
 
 Putnam county, 14; taken from 
 Dutchess, 19. 
 
 General, 15. 
 
 fort, its situation, 13; 
 
 Dr. Van Gelder's poem upon 3 
 13 note; its scenery, 14, 15. 
 
 Put-in-bay, 100 note, 185, 186. 
 
 Quebec, city of, 102, 112, 127. 
 Queenstown, 102. 
 
 heights of, 203. 
 
 R. 
 
 Raisin, or Grape river, 20 1. 
 
 Rhinebeck, village, 23* 
 
 Rid?e, between lake Erie, and 
 Ohio waters, 173; itselevation, 
 175; visible near the mouth 
 of Grand river from the en- 
 trance into Sandusky bay, 179; 
 its range through the state of 
 Ohio, 182; through the state 
 of New- York, 217, 224. 
 
 Rivers, Ottawa, Musquinonge, 
 St. Maurice, St. Anne, Jacques 
 Cartier, Saguenay, Belsiami- 
 tes, Manacouagan, 93. 
 
 Rivers and lakes, their feature^ 
 108 note. 
 
 Rouge, riviere, 201. 
 
 Route from New- York to St. Lou- 
 is by Pittsburg, &c. lix. ad. 
 
 by Detroit, &c. lix. ad. 
 
 — from New-York to De- 
 troit, and down the St. Law- 
 rence, to Quebec, and return 
 to New- York, xlv. ad.- 
 
 Uv:thnd : villa-ge, 67. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 $ 
 
 Sacket's Harbor, 5 6 ; country be- 
 tween and Utica, 57, 70 ; re- 
 view at, 72; country between 
 and the Thousand islands, 73 ; 
 military works at, 104 note; 
 grave of General Pike, xliv. 
 ad. ; views near, ib. 
 
 Saguenay river, 93 ; described. 
 97 note. 
 
 Sandwich, Upper Canada, 194, 
 195. 
 
 Sandusky bay, ISO ; described, 
 181. 
 
 „ village of, 185. 
 
 Schenck's factory on the Mate- 
 owan, (Fishkiil) 16. 
 
 Schenectady, village of, its dis- 
 tance from Albany, 39 ; inter- 
 mediate country, ib. ; situation 
 of, 40; surprised by the sava- 
 ges, ib. ; Union College at, 4 !. 
 
 Schoharie creek, enters the Mo- 
 hawk river, 45 ; described, 227 
 
 Schlosser, fort, 1 60 
 
 Scott, General Winfield, visits 
 Sacket's Harbor, 72 ; wounded. 
 169. 
 
 Seneca, lake, 213; outlet of, 2 14 
 
 river, 217. 
 
 Sltawanzunk, mountain, 20. 
 Simcoe, lake, 97. 
 Sisle rs Is la nds , 186. 
 Skeneateles, lake, 219. 
 Smith's Gazetteer of Upper Ca- 
 nada, quoted, 203. 
 Sodus bay, described, 126. 
 Spafford^s Gazetteer, quoted, 32, 
 
 JJ. 
 
 Steam-boats, their arrangement 
 defective, 9 ; Walk-in-the- Wa- 
 ter, 173 note. 
 
 SI. Clair, river, 99. 
 
 lake, 19 U 
 
 St. Francis, lake, 107, 108, 124, 
 
 St. Lawrence, river of, 73 ; con- 
 trasted with the Mississippi, 
 its real commencement, ib : 
 
 commerce upon, 76 ; compa- 
 red to the Hudson, 88, 89 f 
 table of the surface drained by, 
 89 ; contrasted with the Mis- 
 sissippi, 88; noticed, 90, 91, 
 92, 106 note, 107 note; excel- 
 lent ship navigation in, 10& 
 note ; compared with the Oro~ 
 noco and Plate rivers, ib. ; con- 
 trasted with the Amazon and 
 Mississippi, 109 note; beauty 
 of its islands, ib. note ; effect 
 of frost on, 115, 116; compa- 
 red with the Hudson, Delaware, 
 Susquehanna, Rio de la Plate, 
 and Elbe, 116; quantity of 
 water in enormous, 117; tim- 
 ber on its shores, 120 ; features 
 of its banks where visited by 
 the author, 119; islands in 
 contrasted with those in the 
 Mississippi, 123 ; navigation of 
 between Montreal andOgdens- 
 burgh, 125; between Ogdeng- 
 burgh and Kingston, 125. 
 
 valley of, its natural ad- 
 
 vantages, 205 ; climate, 206. 
 St. Regis, Indians claim the right 
 of soil to the St. Lawrence 
 islands, 125. 
 Sugar river, 66. 
 
 Superior, lake, 93; extent and 
 
 quantity of water, 117. 
 Susquehanna river, 223. 
 T. 
 
 Table of the area drained by the 
 St. Lawrence, 89 ; by the Mis- 
 sissippi, 90. 
 
 of the extent and quanti- 
 
 ty of water in the Canadian 
 sea, 117. 
 — of the stationary distan- 
 ces from lake Erie to lake 
 Huron, 19 1. 
 Table Rock, near the Falls of 
 
 Niagara, 166 note, 212. 
 Thames river. II. C. 100 note : 
 described. 202. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Thousand Islands, described, 74 ; 
 
 their terminal ion, 74 5 noticed, 4 
 
 105 note. 
 Tonneicanta creek, its character 
 
 15 1, ib. ; described, 159. 
 Toronto cliffs, 103. 
 Treaty with several nations of 
 
 savages, 196 note, 
 'Trenton, village of, 63 ; adjacent 
 
 country, ib. 
 Tripes Bill, 45. 
 Troup, Colonel Robert, 1 30 
 Troy, village of, 36 ; situation of, 
 
 ib. ; in what manner built, 37 5 
 
 its environs 
 Turkey Island, in Detroit river, 
 
 i93. 
 
 IT. 
 
 Utica, village of, 42 5 country be- 
 tween and Albany, ib. and se- 
 quel 1 occupies the site of Fort 
 Schuyler, 55 ; latitude, ib. ; 
 population of, 56 ; roads from, 
 ib. 
 
 Union College at Schenectady. 
 41. 
 
 V. 
 
 Valleys of the St. Lawrence and 
 Mississippi, 130 note 5 compa- 
 red, 139. 
 Venice village, 184. 
 View near Utica, 57. 
 
 from Newburg, 1 I. 
 
 from West Point, '12. 
 
 View from Kingston, 2%. 
 
 — from Hudson village, 29s. 
 
 — from Columbiaville, 3!. 
 
 — near Albany, 35. 
 
 — near Troy, 36. 
 
 — of the country adjacent 1$ 
 Schenectady, 39. 
 
 — near Utica, 57. 
 
 — near Geneva, 130. 
 near Canandaigua, 13,1. 
 
 — of the Fallsof Niagara, 164. 
 
 — from QueenStown height', 
 
 — from Fort Putnam, 14. 
 
 — along the Hudson, 20. 
 
 — of the Caisbergs, from 
 Rhinefteci, 24. 
 
 168. 
 
 from the mountains near 
 
 the village of Cherry Valley, 
 223. 
 
 of Sacket ? s Harbor, xliv. ad. 
 
 of the grave of Gen. Pike, ib. 
 
 W. 
 
 Wapplnger's creek, 19. 
 Washington, General, 14. 
 Watertown, 67 5 adjacent coun- 
 try, ib. 
 
 Waik-in-the- TV r xter, steam- boat, 
 173, ib. note; her iirst trip 
 from Bktifald to Detroit, 173 
 
 , note ; return to Buffalo, 207. 
 
 Waterloo, village of, 212. 
 
 West Foint, 12; its local, 13-, 
 its scenery, 14, 15; students 
 at, their seclusion, 15. 
 Y. 
 
 Fates, Mr. his interesting history 
 
 of Canandaigua, 132. 
 York, city of 9 in Upper Canada, 
 
 seat of government there, 98, 
 
 THE END.