#■ 
 
PnUis/icd by W. H AlUw & Co leaderoJuill Street ^ April ^ 1S4j^^ 
 
JOURNAL 
 
 OF 
 
 A RESIDENCE OF TWO YEARS AND A HALF 
 
 IN 
 
 GREAT BRITAIN; 
 
 BY 
 
 JEHANGEER NOWROJEE 
 
 AND 
 
 HIRJEEBHOY MERWANJEE, 
 
 OF BOMBAY, 
 NAVAL ARCHITECTS. 
 
 LONDON : 
 
 Wm. H. ALLEN AND CO., LEADENHALL STREET. 
 MDCCCXLI. 
 
PRINTED BY W. NICOL, 60, PALL MALL. 
 
DEDICATION. 
 
 TO 
 
 SIR CHARLES FORBES, Bart., &c. &c. 
 Sir, 
 
 During our residence of two years and a 
 half in Great Britain, we have, from the day of 
 our landing up to the present time, received innu- 
 merable acts of kindness, attention, and friend- 
 ship from you. Your valuable advice upon all 
 occasions has proved of the greatest advantage 
 to us, and the interest and anxiety you have 
 evinced for our welfare, has far exceeded our 
 most sanguine expectations. 
 
 Your unwearied exertions for our country and 
 her children, are too well known to need any 
 comment from us, but your uniform and never- 
 ceasing attachment to the Lowjee Family, of 
 which we are members, deserves our most grate- 
 ful public acknowledgmentSo 
 
 Your first contracted friendship was with our 
 
iv 
 
 grandfathers, then with our fathers, and latterly; 
 with ourselves. Thus you have through three 
 successive generations preserved that friendship 
 with the same warmness of heart, and with the 
 same disinterested motives. 
 
 Allow us, therefore. Sir, respectfully to dedi- 
 cate to you this brief and unpretending volume, 
 which is the result of our sojourn in this country, 
 as a slight token of our gratitude ; and with senti- 
 ments of respect and esteem, we have the 
 honour and gratification to subscribe ourselves, 
 
 Sir, 
 
 Your most grateful and 
 
 obliged humble servants, 
 
 Jehangeer Nowrojee. 
 
 HiRJEEBHOY MeRWANJEE, 
 
 London J April, 1841. 
 
0 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 During our residence in England we have 
 been so often asked our motives for leaving 
 our homes and placing ourselves under instruc- 
 tions in ship-building at Chatham, that we have 
 deemed it expedient to draw up a brief account 
 of our actuating motives, and also to exhibit a 
 faint outline of those things^ which we had an 
 opportunity of witnessing during the limited 
 time that we allowed ourselves for recreation, 
 and to give a little repose to our minds. We 
 considered that keeping the bow always bent 
 would only tend to weaken it, but we were care- 
 ful in our hours of relaxation to visit such ex- 
 hibitions, and to associate with such people, as 
 would instruct while they amused, and of which 
 the following pages contain the result. 
 
 It has not been our intention to journalize our 
 proceedings or to describe things in the order that 
 we saw them, but we have endeavoured to place 
 before the reader a sort of bird's eye view, as it 
 were, of what we have seen from the 29th of 
 March, 1838, the day we left Bombay, until the 
 
vi 
 
 middle of April, 1841, when we cease this com- 
 pilation, being about to return to that place. 
 
 First, then, as to our actuating motive, there 
 are two of us, Jehangeer Nowrojee, the son, and 
 Hirjeebhoy Merwanjee, the nephew, of Nowrojee 
 Jamsetjee, Esq., the present master builder in the 
 Honourable East India Company's dock yard at 
 Bombay, and we are grandsons of Jamsetjee Bo- 
 manjee, who was also for years master builder of 
 that yard. We were both educated with a view 
 to being brought up in the profession of our fore- 
 fathers, and were attached at an early age to the 
 Bombay dock yard, which was founded by our 
 progenitor, Lowjee Nasserwanjee, in the year 
 1735, and after whom our family is called, viz., 
 Lowjee Family." It is necessary to state that 
 before the above named year all vessels were 
 built at Surat, the principal commercial city on 
 the western side of India, The Bombay go- 
 vernment having contracted with a Parsee 
 builder there in the same year, to build a ship, 
 which was called the Queen," Lowjee super- 
 intended this vessel in the capacity of a foreman, 
 and Mr. Dudley, who was sent to Surat by the 
 government of Bombay to see her properly built, 
 was so much pleased and struck with the atten- 
 tion and ingenuity of the foreman, that he per- 
 suaded him to accompany him to Bombay, in 
 order to establish a building yard there. To 
 
vii 
 
 this he consented; and having brought twelve or 
 fourteen shipwrights with him, selected the pre- 
 sent spot for the dock yard, and thus laid the 
 foundation of that establishment^ which now is 
 considered the finest naval arsenal in India, and 
 that period may be considered an era in the 
 history of Bombay, as the prosperity of the 
 island began rapidly to increase, and in little 
 more than a century the place^ formerly an in- 
 significant and small island, now ranks amongst 
 the cities of Hindoostan, and promises to become 
 one of the best in India. 
 
 Lowjee afterwards brought up his two sons 
 Manockjee and Bomanjee to his own profession, 
 who each had a family of four sons, some of 
 whom were also brought up as shipwrights, but 
 Jamsetjee, the son of the latter^ built the largest 
 and the first ship for the British navy, the 
 
 Minderiy' of seventy-four guns, and afterwards 
 six other ships of the line. He was well known 
 as a naval architect to all naval commanders, 
 and men that went to India ; and his own as well 
 as his predecessor's services have frequently 
 called forth the testimony of the Honourable 
 East India Company and the Boards of Admi- 
 ralty, from whom he had from time to time re- 
 ceived numerous marks of approbation. 
 
 The present master builder has also built 
 
viii 
 
 several ships for the navy, namely, the Asia, 
 Bombay y and Calcutta, all of eighty-four guns, 
 and which are acknowledged to be the finest 
 and strongest two-deckers in the world. 
 
 There have been in the whole ten ships of the 
 line, several frigates and smaller vessels ; and nu- 
 merous other vessels for the Hon. Company and 
 the merchants of India have been built at Bombay, 
 besides the defects of Indian squadrons under 
 several eminent admirals have been repaired, 
 and in fact the dock yard may be the just boast 
 of the Honourable Company, for the advantages 
 and prosperity it has afforded to the commerce 
 of Bombay. Several members of the Lowjee 
 Family have distinguished themselves in other 
 points, Hormasjee Bomanjee was well known in 
 India and England for his commercial enterprise ; 
 and the extensive trade he carried on, in con- 
 junction with the celebrated house of Forbes and 
 Co. (the oldest in Bombay), tended much to 
 benefit Bombay by paving the way for others. 
 Pestonjee Bomanjee was also a partner in the 
 well known firm of Bruce, Fawcett, and Co., now 
 Remington and Co. 
 
 Nasserwanjee Manockjee, also a member of 
 the same family, encouraged French com- 
 merce, and his son, Jehangeer Nasserwanjee 
 carries on the same business. Ahnost all French 
 
ix 
 
 ships that come to Bombay are consigned to him, 
 as also French ships of war, and the credit- 
 able and regular manner in which he conducts 
 the business, has excited the approbation of his 
 Majesty, the King of the French, who sent him 
 a very handsome present of a gold medal, and 
 deputed the celebrated Marshal Soult to write to 
 him and to say that it was a special mark of the 
 King's favour. In addition to this, he has the 
 American ships consigned to him, so that it may 
 not be presumptuous to state that our family has 
 been very instrumental in promoting the com- 
 merce and the prosperity of Bombay. 
 
 We ourselves are the fifth generation from 
 Lowjee that continue to serve the Honourable 
 East India Company, with fidelity and attach- 
 ment, through a period of one hundred and six 
 years as ship builders. But we heard much 
 of the progress making by that giant Steam ; we 
 found that it was becoming more extensively 
 applied to marine purposes ; that instead of its 
 being only used for inland navigation and short 
 distance, vessels were sent to Bombay to keep 
 up the communication between India and Eng- 
 land ; we were informed that vessels of immense 
 tonnage were designed to cross the Atlan- 
 tic, and that steamers were applied to purposes 
 of war ; that, indeed, there appeared to be 
 no bounds to the mighty strides that it was 
 
X 
 
 taking from the applicability of steam as a pro- 
 pelling power to ships of all sizes. 
 
 The Head Builder was, therefore, advised by 
 many of his friends that though as constructors 
 and builders of ships, himself and his ancestors 
 were highly complimented for their skill and 
 ability, yet a new era had arrived when the at- 
 tention of scientific men must be turned to that 
 form of a body, which was to be rapidly propelled 
 through water by wheels, instead of by the power 
 of wind and canvass, and that he should, there- 
 fore, send two or three young men to England, 
 where steam vessels of all descriptions were be- 
 ing designed, — from a small river boat to those 
 magnificent passage vessels employed in crossing 
 the Atlantic, and those still more noble fabrics 
 constructed in the several royal yards for the 
 conveyance of mails, and also those destined for 
 " men of war." 
 
 Among the friends that thus advised him the 
 foremost was John Seppings, Esq., surveyor of 
 shipping to the Honourable East India Com- 
 pany at Calcutta, who had come to Bombay in 
 February, 1838, to return to England by the 
 overland route, he strongly urged the necessity 
 of taking such a step in order that Bombay dock 
 yard should keep pace with the improvements 
 of the day, and being an eminent naval archi- 
 tect himself gave the head builder the assurance 
 
xi 
 
 of our having every opportunity of perfecting 
 ourselves in that branch of naval architecture in 
 England. 
 
 Having been encouraged by Mr. Seppings, 
 and hearing the same thing from the then worthy 
 superintendent, Rear-Admiral Sir Charles Mal- 
 colm, he at once applied to the government for 
 sending two of us to this country. Government 
 approved of the measure, and very kindly pro- 
 mised to recommend us to the notice of the 
 Honourable Court of Directors of the East India 
 Company. 
 
 To these two sincere advisers of our Father and 
 Uncle we owe every thing, they w^ere actuated by 
 the best of motives, and a disinterested anxiety for 
 our welfare, v/hich we shall never forget. It was 
 through Sir Charles Malcolm and Mr. Seppings 
 that we have had the good fortune of coming to 
 England, and we here beg to convey to them our 
 best thanks and grateful feelings for it, as well 
 as for the kindness and attention w^e subsequently 
 received from them in England. 
 
 With the specific object, therefore, of acquir- 
 ing a correct knowledge of the construction of 
 steam vessels and ships, we left our relatives and 
 friends at Bombay, and embarked on the 29th 
 of March, 1838, on board the Buckinghamshire, 
 with our friend and preceptor, Dorabjee Mun- 
 cherjee, and two servants of our own caste. We 
 
xii 
 
 have spent a large sum of money upon our main- 
 tenance and education, and we humbly hope that 
 our residence in this country has been attended 
 with the desired result. 
 
 We had the opportunity of daily visiting 
 Chatham dock yard, where large steamers were 
 being built, by the kind permission of the Lords 
 of the Admiralty, to whom we feel most grateful. 
 We have availed ourselves of the able instruc- 
 tion of John Fincham, Esq., the talented master 
 shipwright of Chatham dock yard, who was for 
 many years the superintendent of the school of 
 naval architecture at Portsmouth, and who is 
 also the author of several works on ship building ; 
 to him we feel particularly indebted for the in- 
 formation that he imparted to us. 
 
 We have also to acknowledge the uniform 
 kind disposition shown to us by all the officers 
 of that as well as other royal yards that we have 
 visited. We more particularly allude to Richard 
 Blake, Esq., master shipwright of Portsmouth 
 yard, and T. Hawkes, Esq., master shipwright 
 of Plymouth yard. It would be invidious to 
 name others, as we here publicly acknowledge 
 our thanks to all from whom we asked for infor- 
 mation, and we may state without vanity that we 
 have made such progress as to enable several of 
 our professional friends to give us testimonials so 
 strongly worded as amply to compensate for our 
 
xiii 
 
 long separation from our families, friends, and 
 country. 
 
 Language will not express the gratitude we 
 owe to the Honourable Court of Directors of the 
 East India Company, particularly their two late, 
 and the present Honourable Chairman, Sir 
 James Law Lushington, Sir Richard Jenkins, 
 and William Butterworth Bayley, Esq., also the 
 worthy Secretary, James Cosmo Melville, Esq., 
 and J. C. Mason, Esq., of the Marine department, 
 for the uniform kindness, patronage, and liberal 
 encouragement w^e received from them officially, 
 and the zeal and disinterestedness which they 
 evinced for our welfare, in return for which we 
 can only offer the assurance of earnest and in- 
 defatigable attention to our duties in Lidia. 
 
 To our worthy patron. Sir Charles Forbes, we 
 feel highly obliged, and w^e cannot sufficiently 
 ej^press ourselves in acknowledging his nu- 
 merous acts of patronage, sound advice, and 
 real friendship, not only tow^ards us, but to the 
 family to which w e belong, and the paternal care 
 with which he watched over our studies, move- 
 ments, comforts, &c., during our residence here, 
 and we must take the liberty of referring our 
 readers to that part of our work where we have 
 expressed our gratitude to him and his family, 
 but which we consider not at all adequate to the 
 good-will he entertains towards our countrymen 
 
xiv 
 
 generally, and his unceasing exertions for pro- 
 moting their welfare and happiness. 
 
 We must not forget our worthy and able in- 
 structor, the Rev. George Hopkins, of Egham, 
 in whom, during our stay of twelve months under 
 his superintendence, we found not only an in- 
 structor, but a very sincere and disinterested 
 friend, alike anxious for our acquirements, health, 
 and comfort, and it is justice to him that we must 
 with pleasure state, that though himself a clergy- 
 man of the Church of England, he never upon 
 any one occasion condemned or ridiculed that;, to 
 us dearest of all, the religion of our forefathers ; 
 on the contrary, he, to his honour be it spoken, 
 evinced considerable anxiety that we should per- 
 severe and act up to what we firmly thought and 
 believed to be true. It is to him that we are 
 mainly indebted for the success we have had in 
 studying our profession at Chatham, as we read 
 the writers on naval architecture with ease and pro- 
 fit, in consequence of the preparatory instructions 
 we received from him. It is also due to the sound 
 knowledge he imparted to us in the limited time 
 of twelve months that we have been able to com- 
 pile this volume, we shall, therefore, always recol- 
 lect him with feelings of respect, esteem, and 
 admiration. 
 
 To our kind friend. Captain Robert Cogan, of 
 the Indian navy, we are much indebted for the 
 
XV 
 
 assistance and advice he cheerfully afforded us 
 when we needed them, we therefore convey our 
 thanks to him. 
 
 From Sir WiUiam Symonds, the Chief Sur- 
 veyor of the Navy, and his assistant, John Edye, 
 Esq., we have received much kindness and at- 
 tention, which we shall ever gratefully recollect. 
 
 It would indeed be an endless task to enume- 
 rate here all from whom we have received 
 courtesy in England, but the above-named gen- 
 tlemen we could not consistently pass over, and 
 we candidly acknowledge that we return to our 
 native land deeply impressed with the hospitable 
 and affable character of the British people, and 
 the civilities we have experienced during our 
 short sojourn will never be obhterated from our 
 memory. 
 
 With regard to our observations upon the dif- 
 ferent scenes in England, we cannot imagine that 
 they will afford either instruction or amusement 
 to Europeans, but we do think that to the 
 natives of India who may be about to visit Eng- 
 land, they will prove useful, they will point 
 out to them such things as are worth inspection, 
 they will give them a faint idea of what those 
 places are about which they have heard so much, 
 and our remarks may teach them that although 
 worshipping their Creator through a different 
 medium, that they will in England receive much 
 
xvi 
 
 of kindness and of courtesy, that they will see 
 manufactories of almost every description of 
 articles ; they will see glass made, cotton manu- 
 factured, and^ congregated together for exhibi- 
 tion^ models for performing every possible opera- 
 tion. 
 
 With these views, we have noted down those 
 things, and although we may be deemed pre- 
 sumptuous for putting our ideas in print, we have 
 only to hope all who read our little work will 
 make due allowances for our want of correct 
 English phraseology 3 and we state that if upon 
 any subject our remarks appear of erroneous 
 construction, it must have been from want of 
 knowing better, as we have no prejudice against 
 any one, or no feeling that could in any way lead 
 us to personalities. 
 
 We must also request indulgence for any 
 errors, typographical or otherwise, that the 
 reader may meet with, as the work has been 
 hurried through the press to get it out before our 
 departure. 
 
 In conclusion, we hope, that should our humble 
 efforts promote and increase the existing kindly 
 feehng towards the natives of the East in the 
 breast of the British public, our highest ambition 
 will be gratified, and we shall indeed think that 
 toe have not travelled, studied, and written in 
 vain. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I.— p. 1. 
 
 VOYAGE FROM BOMBAY TO ENGLAND. 
 
 Cannanore — Cochin — Canoes — Heavy Gale off the Cape — Sy- 
 monds' Bay — Cape Town — St. Helena — Strange Sail — Dover 
 — Gravesend. 
 
 CHAPTER n.— p. 26. 
 
 ARRIVAL AT GRAVESEND, AND PASSAGE TO 
 LONDON. 
 
 Steam Boat Accommodations — Traffic on the Thames — Bustle of 
 London. 
 
 CHAPTER HI.— p. 30. 
 
 INTRODUCTION TO SIR CHARLES FORBES. THE 
 
 DIORAMA AND THE ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS. 
 
xviii 
 
 CHAPTER IV.— p. 35. 
 
 INTRODUCTION AND RECEPTION AT THE EAST 
 INDIA HOUSE. 
 
 Sir James Rivett Carnac, Bart., Earl of Minto, &c. 
 
 CHAPTER v.— p. 39. 
 
 PUBLIC CONVEYANCES AND BRIDGES. 
 
 Fares — Cruelty to Half Starved Horses — Job Carriages and 
 Horses — Suggestion for Omnibus System at Bombay — View of 
 London, from the Bridges, at Night and at Sunrise — Riches of 
 England — Corn Laws. 
 
 CHAPTER VI.— p. 64. 
 
 WAX-WORK. MADAME TUSSAUD. 
 
 Her Majesty — ^The Royal Family — Archbishop of Canterbury — 
 Duke of Wellington — O'Connell — Lord Brougham — Cobbett — 
 Pitt— Fox— Voltaire, &c. 
 
 CHAPTER VII.— p. 76. 
 
 RAILROADS. EGHAM. WINDSOR. 
 
 Locomotive Engines — Travelling — Post Office — Maidenhead — 
 Windsor — Great Park — Egham. 
 
 CHAPTER VIIL— p. 93. 
 
 BRITISH MUSEUM. 
 
xix 
 
 CHAPTER IX.— p. 98. 
 
 THE PARKS. 
 
 CHAPTER X.— p. 101. 
 
 THEATRES. 
 
 Her Majesty at the Opera — Extravagant Pay to Dancers — Drury 
 Lane — Van Amburgh — Promenade Concert — Covent Garden — 
 Madame Vestris — Saloon — Unhappy Females — Astley's — Carter 
 and his Wild Beasts — Victoria — Blanchard performs a Monkey 
 — Power of Money — Rudeness of the Lower Orders. 
 
 CHAPTER XL— p. 111. 
 
 SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS. 
 
 Adelaide Gallery — Steam-Gun — Daguerreotype — Polytechnic In- 
 stitution — Its numerous and highly interesting contents-r 
 Blessings to England, in Coal and Iron — Hall's Water Elevator 
 recommended to India — Benefits arising to Science from the 
 former pursuit of Astrology, &c. — Mechanics' Institutes. 
 
 CHAPTER XII.— p. US. 
 
 BAZAARS. LAYCOCK^S DAIRY. — MARKETS. 
 
 CHAPTER XIII.— p. 150. 
 
 NATIONAL AND CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 
 
 Greenwich Hospital — Guy's Hospital — Christ's Hospital — Na- 
 tional Schools. 
 
XX 
 
 CHAPTER XIV.— p. 164. 
 
 HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. 
 
 Constitution of the Commons — Reform Bill — House of Lords — 
 Debate in the Commons, 25th Feb. 1841 — Visit to the House 
 of Lords, 26th Feb. 1841.— Westminster Hall. 
 
 CHAPTER XV.— p. 186. 
 
 POLICE AND CRIMINAL COURTS. 
 
 Guildhall — Grand Jury — Trial — Story of Sir William Garrow — 
 Obstinate Jurymen. 
 
 CHAPTER XVI.— p. 195. 
 
 EXHIBITIONS OF THE FINE ARTS. 
 
 f oliseum — (Observations on London, occasioned by the Picture 
 of the View from St. Paul's — Size — Wealth — Cheap Shops — 
 Adulterated Tea — Tricks of Trade — Jews — Bankrupt Stocks — 
 Quacks — Citizens, their Country Houses — Expensive Establish- 
 ments and Education of their Children — Numerous places of 
 Worship — Streets and Squares) — National Gallery — Royal 
 Academy, &c. — Miss Linwood — Panorama of Acre. 
 
 CHAPTER XVIL— p. 216. 
 
 PUBLIC BUILDINGS, &C. 
 
 St. Paul's — The Monument — The Thames Tunnel — xVdmiralty — 
 Somerset House — Surveyor of the Navy's Model Room — The 
 Tower— Bank— Post Office. 
 
XXI 
 
 CHAPTER XVIIL— p. 232. 
 
 RESIDENCE AT EGIIAM AND VISITS TO WINDSOR 
 AND FROGMORE LODGE. 
 
 The Queen on the Terrace — The Authors' Names and Country 
 enquired after — Egham,^ — Runimead — St. Ann's Hill — Mrs. 
 Fox — Frogmore — Affability of the late Princess Augusta — 
 Disappointed in English Gardens, not equal in arrangement, 
 &c., to those at Bombay — Fruit — Virginia Water. 
 
 CHAPTER XIX.— p. 246. 
 
 CHATHAM DOCK YARD. 
 
 Description of the Yard, Buildings, &c. — Preparations for Launch- 
 ing the Maeander Frigate — Launch — Expences of the Yard — 
 Consequent Taxation — Launch of the London, 92 guns* — Sea- 
 man's Song 
 
 CHAPTER XX.— p. 288. 
 
 CHATHAM^ ROCHESTER^ AND MAIDSTONE. 
 
 Almshouses — Theatre — Aylesford — Wateringbury — Hop Picking 
 — Brewing — Apples — Curiosity of the People. 
 
 CHAPTER XXL— p. 300. 
 
 SHEERNESS DOCK YARD. 
 
 Curious Model of the Yard— Roman Cement — Organic Remains 
 in the Isle of Sheppy. 
 
xxii 
 
 CHAPTER XXII.— p. 307. 
 
 WOOLWICH YARD AND ARSENAL. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII.— p. 312. 
 
 THE CUSTOM HOUSE AND THE DOCKS OF 
 LONDON. 
 
 Houses in Frame for Australia — Emigrants — Blackwaii Railway. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV.— p. 317. 
 
 VAUXHALL GARDENS. 
 
 CHAPTER XXV.— p. 319. 
 
 ILLUMINATION OF LONDON. 
 
 Homage of the People to the Queen — Aspirations for her welfare 
 — Political Popularity uncertain. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI.— p. 324. 
 
 WINDSOR CASTLE. 
 
 Splendour and Taste of George IV. — Private Apartments — State 
 Apartments — Grandeur and Magnificence of St, George's 
 Chapel — Immense value of the Plate Room. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII.— p. 342. 
 
 THE EAST INDIA HOUSE. 
 
 External Architecture — Short Account of the Company — Interior 
 — Museum— Encouragement to Talent and Genius in the Na- 
 tives of the East. 
 
xxiii 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIIL— p. 358. 
 
 STEAM MANUFACTORIES IN LONDON. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIX.— p. 362. 
 
 THE ROYAL INSTITUTION. 
 Evening Lecture, by Mr. Goddard — Daguerreotype Portraits. 
 
 CHAPTER XXX.— p. 365. 
 
 NEWSPAPERS AND PERIODICALS. 
 
 Adoption of their opinions, laughable — Valuable as Journals of 
 Historical Facts — Changes in Politics — Inflammatory Language 
 — Expenses — Opinions on diflferent Papers — Advantages to So- 
 ciety — Anonymous Slander — Annuals — Reviews — Edinburgh 
 — Quarterly, &c. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXI.— p. 385. 
 
 TOUR TO THE NAVAL ARSENALS AND PRINCIPAL 
 SEAPORTS. 
 
 Southampton Railway — Southampton — Portsmouth — Dock Yard 
 — Plymouth — Devonport — Bristol — Great Western Steam Ship 
 Company — Gloucester — Birmingham — Liverpool — Niger Expe- 
 dition — Glasgow — Pottery — Asylum for the Blind — Greenock — 
 Return to London and Expense of Tour in Time and Money. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXII.— p. 451. 
 
 CUSTOMS, AND MANNERS, EDUCATION, &C. 
 
xxiv 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIIL— p. 465. 
 
 ALBUMS. EPITAPHS. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIV.— p. 479. 
 
 CLIMATE OF ENGLAND. 
 
 Salutations indicative of the Climate — Ice — Beautiful appearance 
 of Snow — Tulips— Fruits — Harvest — Christmas — Advice on 
 Preservation of Health. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXV.— p. 487- 
 
 CONCLUDING OBSERVATIONS. 
 
CHAPTER I. 
 
 VOYAGE FROM BOMBAY TO ENGLAND. 
 
 On the twenty-ninth of March the Buckingham- 
 shire was announced to leave^ and as the time 
 drew near^ we began to feel uneasy. The idea 
 of leaving our homes^ the happy island which 
 gave us birth ^ the sacrifice of comforts we were 
 about to make^ and three years' absence from our 
 wives^ our parents^ and relatives^ made us very 
 melancholy ; however hope animated us and we 
 reflected with what pleasure we should see them 
 all on our return^ and moreover what advantage 
 our countrymen in Bombay would derive by our 
 being acquainted with the resources of a country 
 on w^hich their life and property depended^ and 
 we hoped that it would be paving the way for 
 them^ and that by our communicating to them 
 what we had seen of England^ and her inha- 
 bitants, they would be actuated to visit her, and 
 that by the frequent interchange of ideas and 
 feelings much benefit would result to both. 
 
 B 
 
2 
 
 On the morning of the twenty-ninth we bade 
 adieu to our families and friends, and many were 
 the tears of sorrow that flowed from all eyes at 
 that critical hour. All were melancholy and sad ; 
 many came on board the ship with us and re- 
 mained there as long as they could, but oh ! what 
 words can paint the grief when we thus severed 
 from each other ? 
 
 The Captain gave orders to weigh the anchor, 
 and the wide sails were now spread, and the noble 
 ship stood out for sea. 
 
 Every soul on board except ourselves, and some 
 native seamen, were full of joy, with the antici- 
 pated pleasure of seeing their native land and the 
 associates of their younger days. Our case indeed 
 was different, we were leaving our birth place for a 
 strange country, and had exchanged homely com- 
 forts for the troubles of a long sea voyage. We 
 gazed on the happy land we had just left till we 
 could see it no longer. 
 
 We soon became reconciled to . our lot and 
 contrived means to amuse ourselves as well as we 
 could. For three days and three nights we saw 
 nothing but the wide ocean before, and the sky 
 over, us. 
 
 Our fellow passengers were mostly public ser- 
 vants, whose names would be of very little interest, 
 suffice it to say, that there were upwards of sixty 
 including the children, who were about fifteen in 
 number. 
 
3 
 
 Many of the passengers were sea sick, but to 
 the great astonishment of all, the whole of us 
 escaped it and were totally free from the slightest 
 symptoms of its approach ; this we attribute to 
 be caused by the abstemious mode of living we 
 adopted at sea. We here beg to suggest to all 
 those, who wish to escape the unpleasant effects 
 of sea sickness, to refrain from taking any wine or 
 spirits, and to be moderate in their meals for the 
 first few days, as we have found it of advantage 
 in keeping our health, though out of us five, only 
 one of our attendants had been to sea before. 
 
 On the fourth of April we saw the land about 
 Cannanore, from which place we had to take some 
 soldiers and a young officer of the Army as 
 passengers in the ship ; in the morning of the 
 following day we came into the Bay of Cannanore, 
 which is said to be the best on the coast of 
 Malabar. 
 
 The Town is defended by a fortress, and has, 
 we were informed, some very good houses. As 
 our ship was expected to leave the place in a few 
 hours none of the passengers went on shore ; we 
 saw some very neat bungalows belonging to the 
 English, close to the beach with gardens sur- 
 rounding them. 
 
 A boat was sent on shore with the second 
 officer and the purser, with whom we had the 
 opportunity of sending some letters to Bombay 
 by the post. 
 
4 
 
 Soon after the ship entered the Bay we were 
 surrounded by the natives^ who came with their 
 canoes loaded with all sorts of fruit, cocoa nuts, 
 and vegetables, which was very acceptable to us, 
 and we purchased them with great eagerness. 
 The boat returned in the afternoon with the 
 passengers, and we once more made for sea. 
 
 We had to take some more passengers from 
 Cochin, as well as our living stock, such as fowls, 
 geese, &c., with which the coast of Malabar 
 abounds; we sailed along the coast keeping it 
 in view all the time. The coast between Canna- 
 nore and Cochin, is of uniform height and thickly 
 covered with cocoa nut trees, and had altogether 
 a very beautiful appearance. 
 
 On the morning of the tenth of April we 
 reached Cochin, there were several small vessels 
 in the harbour and the steamer Semiramis/^ 
 belonging to the Honourable Company. Appre- 
 hensions were entertained about her safety at 
 Bombay when we left, because she had been more 
 than three months on her passage from England, 
 but we here understood that she was detained at 
 many places on her way to take in fresh supplies 
 of coals. 
 
 We did not come to anchor at this place, 
 because we expected to start again in the evening; 
 the captain fired guns to warn the passengers on 
 shore of his arrival, in order that they might come 
 on board during the day. Here the ship was 
 
5 
 
 again hemmed in by the native canoes, contain- 
 ing great quantity of fruit and vegetables, in 
 addition to which they had brought numerous 
 parrots, and mungooses, which the sailors were 
 very desirous to buy, and to take them to their 
 friends as the living curiosities of this side of 
 India, and such was the bustle and noise which 
 prevailed in making the bargains, and so many of 
 the crew were willing to purchase the birds, that 
 a momentary suspension of their duties took place, 
 and the accommodation of the ship^s company was 
 likely to become a menagerie of birds, but the 
 Captain issued peremptory orders for the owners 
 to leave the ship. 
 
 After breakfast we took a small canoe and 
 went on shore ; we immediately repaired to the 
 house of a Parsee, who was a merchant and had a 
 building yard of his own ; we were very hand- 
 somely treated by his domestics, and though he 
 was not at home, he left orders always to shew 
 hospitality to any one of his own caste, who may 
 happen to come there. Having taken dinner we 
 went to our host^s dock-yard to pay our respects 
 to him and to thank him for his hospitality, but to 
 our great regret he was not there. The town of 
 Cochin is not very extensive and from its prox- 
 imity to the Teak wood forests many building 
 yards have been established by private individuals, 
 and some very good ships have been built here. 
 Cochin was ceded to the British, in the year 1814, 
 
6 
 
 by the Dutch^ wlio captured it from the Portuguese* 
 We saw some ruins of buildings which formerly 
 must have had an air of grandeur. Dutch, Portu- 
 guese and Jews are to be found in great numbers 
 here. The trade is considerable in Sandal wood^ 
 Cardamums, Pepper, Cocoa nut, and Teak wood, 
 and ample supplies of poultry can be procured at a 
 very cheap rate, consequently ships bound for 
 long voyages take their living stock at this place. 
 Fowls are procurable at two rupees a dozen. 
 Ducks three rupees per dozen. Geese from two 
 to two rupees and a half a couple, and Turkies 
 from two rupees and a half to three rupees a 
 couple. 
 
 The streets in the Town are very irregular, 
 and the houses have a very indifferent external 
 appearance, though many of them are commodious 
 within. 
 
 At four in the afternoon we came to the land- 
 ing place, and we saw the ship^s boat, with the 
 second mate and the purser loaded with poultry, 
 return to the ship; they advised us to follow them 
 as soon as possible as the ship was waiting for 
 them. 
 
 It was more than half an hour before we could 
 procure a boat to carry us, all of them being em- 
 ployed in conveying coals to the steamer ; how- 
 ever we succeeded in getting a miserable small 
 craft, with two men to row her ; we began to be 
 very apprehensive that the ship would have to 
 
7 
 
 wait for us^ but our boatmen pledged themselves 
 to take us on board in an hour. 
 
 The canoe^ as these crafts are called, was an 
 indifferent one ; they are scooped out of a solid 
 log of wood, and are round bottomed so that the 
 least overbalance will upset it; there were two 
 men on the oars and one at the rudder, the wind 
 was blowing fresh, and tide against us, so that 
 they had hard work to pull the canoe. The sea 
 was very high and the boat was tossed about a 
 great deal, and we were very much frightened, 
 and were in danger of upsetting, however we 
 persevered in keeping our balance and in an 
 hour reached the ship. The passengers being all 
 on board the Captain was anxious to avail him- 
 self of the fresh breeze, and we set sail, but 
 within an hour it was ascertained that nearly a 
 third part of the live stock, which came on board, 
 was dead from the effects of the salt water and by 
 the tossing about of the gig while coming to the 
 ship. We were consequently forced to put back 
 for the place, and cast anchor in the road on 
 account of a heavy squall that came on. Early 
 next morning the gig was sent ashore with the 
 purser and second officer to procure a further 
 supply, and they returned to the ship at three in 
 the afternoon. By this time the Semiramis 
 having taken in all her coals, got her steam up 
 and weighed anchor to leave for Bombay; she spoke 
 to us as she passed by and we had the satisfac- 
 
8 
 
 tion of sending a favourable report of all on board 
 by her to Bombay. 
 
 At five in the afternoon we weighed anchor, 
 and set sail^ with the hope of making a speedy 
 passage to the Cape, which was the next place we 
 wanted to go to for replenishing provisions and 
 water for the rest of our passage. 
 
 We were gazing on the shore till it was quite 
 dark, and bade adieu to the fair land of Hindostan 
 for some time to come. 
 
 Before we reached the Cape we fell in with a 
 great many ships, exchanged colours with some, 
 and spoke to many of them ; but it would be te- 
 dious and unnecessary to enumerate them all here, 
 however on the eighteenth of May we fell in with 
 the barque Earl of Liverpool, we exchanged 
 colours, and she came alongside at six in the 
 evening ; she had left Bombay a few days after us, 
 and the news she gave us of that place was of 
 very little importance. The following morning we 
 saw her within a hundred yards of us, and it being 
 a perfect calm the commanders of both ships 
 found it an excellent opportunity of comparing 
 their chronometers. 
 
 The Commander of the Liverpool in conse- 
 quence came on board our ship after breakfast, 
 and left after dinner ; it was indeed pleasing to 
 all on board to see a stranger at sea^ which was a 
 change from the monotony of our passage^ and 
 served as a topic of conversation. 
 
9 
 
 On the 22nd of May we were between the 
 Fish Bay and the cape Lagullas, on the southern 
 coast of the continent of Africa, and were now 
 expecting to encounter a heavy north-western 
 gale, which commences blowing here from May 
 till August; the barometer was going down 
 rapidly, and all were in apprehension. The 
 Captain had ordered every thing to be prepared 
 to meet the expected gale, when, on the afternoon 
 of the same day, it began to blow hard ; all the 
 sails were taken in immediately, except the fore- 
 topsail, which was double reefed; the gun deck 
 ports were shut, and our cabin presented a most 
 gloomy appearance ; the ship began to roll and 
 pitch a great deal, and we had to give additional 
 security to ovir things in the cabin for fear of any 
 giving way ; this was the very first time we were 
 in such a sea, and here we felt the necessity of 
 warm clothing. We had hitherto had a favorable 
 passage on the whole, considering the season of 
 the year^ but we began to feel uneasy when we 
 were told that the gale would not subside at least 
 for a fortnight, and we very much regretted not 
 having left Bombay by the overland route, because 
 we should have been very near the place of our 
 destination by this time. On the morning of 
 the following day, we were informed that the jib- 
 boom and the sprit-sail yard were carried away 
 during the night. The gale kept on blowing very 
 hard, the sea ran mountains high, and the ship 
 B 2 
 
10 
 
 rolled and pitched to that degree that we could 
 hardly stand on our legs ; our cabin was so dark 
 and gloomy that we could not bear sitting for an 
 hour in it. 
 
 The dim light admitted from a bull's-eye^ and a 
 small scuttle through the side^ was not sufficient 
 to read a book, and when we endeavoured to do 
 so, we found it a difficult task because of the 
 motion of the vessel. You are obliged to hold 
 anything that is a fixture with one hand to keep 
 yourself steady, and your book in the other ; but 
 then how are you to turn the leaves as you read 
 them? If you loose your hold the next lurch 
 will throw you off your seat, and you are in 
 the danger of breaking your neck. On the deck 
 the wind was so cold and blowing so hard, that it 
 was no pleasure or enjoyment to pass a few hours 
 there ; thus we were sadly in want of amusement^ 
 and not we only, but we believe all the passengers 
 on board. It was also a difficult task for our 
 servants to prepare our victuals, as they could 
 hardly keep the cooking utensils steady on the 
 fire. 
 
 Though the Captain had allowed us a separate 
 caboose, which was placed between the foremast 
 and the riding bits^ in a portable house built for 
 the purpose, our cook dared not move from it, 
 because close to it was stowed a quantity of hay, 
 for a fine Arabian steed and two cows which were 
 on board. The things on the cuddy table were 
 
11 
 
 often carried away, and we found much difficulty 
 in taking our meals ; the plan we adopted was 
 that of holding the plate in our hand and eating 
 out of it, but the most laborious task was that of 
 taking tea; we were obliged to hold the cup in 
 our hands, and pour out the liquid and drink it 
 off as fast we could. Such was the difficulty we 
 had to encounter during this gale : here we were 
 strongly reminded of the comforts of home, and 
 we lamented undertaking the voyage by sea ; and, 
 indeed, had there not been the number of happy 
 innocent children on board, whose playful tricks 
 and smiles amused us, it would have proved an 
 extremely tedious passage. We, therefore, strongly 
 recommend those who leave England or India for 
 either country, by all means to go by the overland 
 route if they can possibly affi^rd it. It may 
 appear presumptuous of us to recommend a 
 route we have not travelled by, but we have 
 heard a great deal from those who have had 
 experience in it, and by comparing them to the 
 narrative of our voyage, we have drawn a conclu- 
 sion in its favor, and have resolved to return to 
 Bombay by the same conveyance. We hear that 
 the track is so completely beaten, that there is 
 very little fatigue attending it, except crossing the 
 desert of Suez, but you are amply repaid for it by 
 reaching to your destination much sooner, and 
 seeing the countries which you traverse. How- 
 ever, with all the inconveniences here cited, we 
 
12 
 
 had reason to be thankful to the AUwise Provi- 
 dence for landing us safely on the shores of 
 England. 
 
 The contrast in the appearance of the ship 
 \vas remarkable ; hitherto she had carried many 
 large and wide sails, but now a triangular one 
 (called storm-sail) was her lot, and she was as it 
 were deprived of her beautiful clothing. It was 
 quite depressing to see her in that state. 
 
 We continued on thus till the 4th of June, and, 
 unfortunately, much of the live stock which we 
 had taken at Cochin died every day during this 
 tedious gale, and there were only two sheep on 
 board ; and it was the opinion of all, that the wind 
 would not change its direction for a fortnight, at 
 least there was every appearance of its conti- 
 nuing to blow from the same quarter ; and as we 
 were taking tea in our cabin our kind friend Mr. 
 Stuart, the purser, came in and said that he had 
 an unpleasant message from the Captain to 
 deliver ; it was this, — we had hitherto been 
 allowed mutton and fowls, but as there were no 
 fowls on board, and only two sheep, the Captain 
 regretted he could not supply us with any meat 
 after they were consumed, and as it was uncer- 
 tain when we should reach the Cape, we were 
 requested to subsist upon rice, peas, &c. till then. 
 There was a great quantity of salt beef and ham 
 on board, but we could not as Parsees partake of 
 them from our religious scruples. 
 
13 
 
 This was no unpleasant message" to us^ be- 
 cause there were many other things upon which 
 we could live for weeks together ; and moreover 
 we had a quantity of preserved meat with us, 
 which was very little consumed^ and proved 
 of the greatest use and convenience to us, as it 
 only required warming a little and it was fit to eat. 
 But we were extremely sorry to hear that we 
 should have to endure the discomfort^ as much 
 again as we had already experienced. 
 
 It was very fortunate that the ship did not 
 sustain any other injury or loss than that of her 
 jib-boom and the sprit-sail yard^ and much of it is 
 to be attributed to the excellent management of 
 Captain Hopkins and his officers. The boom 
 and the yard were soon replaced^ but the poop 
 and the upper deck now became very leaky ; by 
 the constant rolling of the ship the caulking 
 became loose, and there was every passenger 
 complaining about it ; no remedy however could 
 be done to it before the gale subsided. 
 
 On the morning of the 5th the wind moderated^ 
 and we were able to set sail. Oh ! how de- 
 lightful was it, every body was full of joy^ and 
 every heart forgot all the past trouble, and looked 
 forward with pleasure to reach Simon's Bay the 
 day after the following. In the evening there 
 was only a slight breeze and the sea considerably 
 smoother, and we made towards False Bay. 
 
 On the morning of the 6th we fairly entered the 
 
14 
 
 Bay^ but the wind being against us we had to tack 
 about^ or beat to the windward^ to enter that safe, 
 long- wished haven — Simon's Bay. 
 
 There are very high mountains on both sides of 
 False Bay, and there was Uttle verdure on them 
 on account of its being winter, but they appeared 
 destitute of wood. The ship^s company and the 
 officer had a hard work to tack the ship about the 
 whole of the day, and at three o'clock on the 
 morning of the 7th, we fairly cast anchor at 
 Simon's Bay. 
 
 Simon^s Bay is about twenty-two miles north- 
 east of Cape Town ; it is much frequented by ships 
 during the north-westerly gales for which the 
 Cape is celebrated ; it is entirely sheltered from 
 the winds by high mountains with which it is 
 surrounded ; many of them are more than three 
 thousand feet in height from the level cf the sea. 
 We saw her Majesty^s ship Melville, 74 guns, 
 bearing the flag of Admiral Honorable George 
 Elliot, and two or three other ships of the navy. 
 
 Simon^s Town is situated opposite the bay at 
 the foot of the hills, and is much warmer and 
 pleasanter than Cape Town, which lies exposed 
 to the wind. The view of the town from the 
 harbour is very good. The houses are principally 
 one story high, detached from each other, and 
 facing the bay. 
 
 We were anxious to see Cape Town, and as 
 our friend Mr. Stuart was going there, we wanted 
 
15 
 
 to accompany him, but he informed us that there 
 was only one carriage by which he was going, and 
 as he had other friends with him it could not take 
 us all, and we must consequently wait till the same 
 carriage should return back, to which we agreed, 
 and, upon our request, he promised to arrange 
 about our lodgings at that place. 
 
 Many of the passengers proceeded on horse- 
 back to Cape Town and some of them were 
 content to spend a few days at Simon^s Town. 
 
 We were very much tired of the ship, and our 
 friend assured us that the carriage would come for 
 us on the 11th and we were to proceed by it at 
 once to Cape Town. Accordingly we went on 
 shore at the appointed hour, but to our great 
 surprise there was no carriage, and we were told 
 that it might possibly arrive in the evening but not 
 before. We consequently took up our abode at a 
 place called ^' Clarence Hotel the only one of 
 the kind. The houses in Simon's Town are 
 mostly built of stone and whitewashed, with flat 
 roofs. The inhabitants are principally the Dutch 
 and the Hottentots. Here is a naval yard with 
 storehouses, &c. to supply the Queen^s ships, and 
 a beautiful building appropriated for the residence 
 of the Admiral and his suite. Shops are very few 
 here and the place from its lonely position is very 
 dear, no provisions are to be got in any quantity ; 
 the ships are supplied from Cape Town, from 
 whence things are conveyed to this place by 
 
16 
 
 waggons drawn by horses and bullocks. Water is 
 very plentiful here and exceedingly good ; here the 
 houses are supplied by pipes leading from the 
 very many beautiful springs that flow from the 
 mountain in every direction. 
 
 Evening came but no carriage arrived^ nor was 
 there any intelligence about it, we were therefore 
 compelled to remain at our present quarters till 
 the next morning. 
 
 At length after a great deal of anxiety on our 
 part, at seven in the evening we saw a chariot 
 with six horses coming towards our Hotel, and we 
 concluded it was for us ; it brought one of the lady 
 passengers of our ship, and we had a note from 
 our friend stating, that he did not reach Cape Town 
 before the evening of the 11th, in consequence of 
 his carriage coming in contact with a waggon on 
 the road which disabled it from proceeding onwards 
 and which accounted for the delay. At six 
 o^clock on the following morning we started by 
 the coach, and we were very much astonished with 
 the driver, who sitting on the coach box drove six 
 horses at a very rapid pace. It must be a very 
 difficult task for one to hold and manage six 
 horses in hand, and driving furiously. There was 
 another man with a long whip in his hand by the 
 side of the driver, who kept urging the horses. 
 Cape horses though not possessing the beauty and 
 the speed of the Arabian are very strong, and 
 capable of standing a great deal of fatigue. The 
 
17 
 
 first three or four miles of the road from Simon^s 
 Town is very bad and irregular, but the rest is 
 good and even. 
 
 We passed through a beautiful part of the 
 country and saw many beautiful cottages, farms 
 and woods, the scenery altogether was very lively 
 and romantic. 
 
 We were driven to the George's Hotel, a large 
 and respectable place where arrangements were 
 made for our reception, and we found every 
 comfort at this place. We here found our friend 
 Colonel Henderson* late Clothing Agent at Bom- 
 bay, who having heard of our arrival was kind 
 enough to come and see us. We remained three 
 days at this place, and were favored with a call 
 from John Warden Esq. the Chief Magistrate of 
 Bombay, and we were introduced to two mer- 
 chants of some note, Mr. Burnie and Mr. Ruther- 
 foord, from whom we received much kindness and 
 attention. 
 
 The colony of the Cape of Good Hope was 
 taken from the Dutch by the British in the year 
 1802, and its capital is Cape Town. This celebra- 
 ted Cape was first doubled by a celebrated 
 Portuguese navigator, Vasco de Gama in 1494, 
 and who was the very first European that came to 
 Hindostan, and the first place that he landed at 
 was Calicut on the coast of Malabar; thus he 
 opened the way for other adventurers, and many 
 discoveries were made by the Portuguese after- 
 
18 
 
 wards^ the Dutch followed their example, and 
 reaped a rich harvest by trading with India, and 
 subsequently the Enghsh, who are now rulers of 
 the country. 
 
 Cape Town is very neat and well built^ and 
 stands on a gentle declivity towards the sea^ the 
 streets are very wide and straight^ and intersect 
 each other at right angles, which adds considerably 
 to its beauty ; the houses are principally two 
 stories high. Canals of water run through many 
 of the streets and fine shady trees are to be found 
 in some of them. 
 
 The Town is watered by a stream that issues 
 from the Table Mountain. The inhabitants are 
 the Dutch, English and Hottentots, or the natives 
 of the colony. There are batteries, many forts 
 and a castle to defend the town. Mr. Burnie 
 kindly took us to see the Botanical Garden, where 
 all sorts of plants and shrubs were reared and 
 taken care of for experiments; it was not very 
 large, but well conducted, and in good order. 
 
 The celebrated Table Mountain is in the view 
 of the town, and the land at the summit of this 
 mountain, called Table Land, is 3582 feet above 
 the level of the sea, and is very flat. 
 
 The climate of the Cape is very healthy and 
 salubrious ; it neither has the extreme cold of 
 England, nor the oppressive heat of India ; and 
 from the equality of the seasons and the pecu- 
 liarity of the soil, vegetation, both of Europe and 
 
19 
 
 Asia^ thrives very well. Here we saw pomegranate 
 trees, plantain trees, and others of Indian produc- 
 tion, and we were told that much of English fruit 
 and vegetables were to be had in their proper 
 seasons. 
 
 On the whole we were highly delighted with 
 what w^e saw of the place; and we returned to 
 Simon^s Town in the same carriage and six, in 
 three hours : the cost of the conveyance was 12/. 
 
 By the 21st of June, having completed our 
 water and provisions, and having caulked the deck, 
 and repaired or replaced every thing that had 
 suffered from the gale, we weighed anchor, and 
 put to sea with a favorable breezCo We should 
 have mentioned, that False Bay abounds with 
 plenty of fish, mackerel especially, of which the 
 ship^s company caught a great many, and it was a 
 very great treat to us for some days. 
 
 At 10 A. M., on the morning of the 6th of July, 
 we descried the Island of St. Helena. It appeared 
 as a huge rock standing in the midst of the wide 
 ocean, and the same evening we were so close to 
 it that we might have thrown a biscuit on shore. 
 This island may be conceived to be a stupendous 
 rock rising out of the bosom of the sea, quite 
 inaccessible except at one place ; it is situated in 
 the Atlantic ocean, and about 1200 miles distant 
 from the West coast of Africa. 
 
 The whole area of it is, we understand, about 
 30,000 acres, a greater part of which is unfit to be 
 
20 
 
 cultivated. The cliffs, on all sides, are from 700 
 to 1200 feet in height, and it is so well defended 
 by fortifications, as to be considered invincible in 
 the hands of the British. 
 
 As night came on, we hove to on the other side 
 of the island ; and on the following morning we 
 came opposite James' Town ; a boat was sent on 
 shore, which returned in a few hours, and we set 
 sail with the hope of touching at nowhere else 
 but England. 
 
 The only town on the island of St. Helena is 
 James^ Town, and the population is said to be up- 
 wards of four thousand. Thisbarren and lonely place 
 became the scene of great interest, from being the 
 confinement of that extraordinary man Napoleon 
 Buonaparte, who having for a series of years dis- 
 turbed the peace of Europe, became an exile to 
 this place in 1816, where he ended his earthly 
 career on the 5th day of May, 1821, and was 
 interred with all the honors due to him as a 
 great military man. We have since read, that 
 his remains were conveyed to Paris by the French, 
 and buried in that country. 
 
 On the afternoon of the 10th of July we passed 
 Ascension Island ; and on the 26th of the same 
 month, about the parallel of the Azores, or the 
 Western Islands, we descried a sail early in the 
 morning, right ahead of us. We hoisted colours 
 at seven, when she was sufficiently near ; but 
 she did not do so ; and after repeated attempts, 
 
21 
 
 we could not learn what she was : it was^ there- 
 fore^ thought that she must be a pirate ship, and 
 we were informed that these latitudes were much 
 frequented by this description of vessels formerly, 
 and they took shelter among the islands when 
 chased. There was only a slight breeze, and the 
 captain took the precaution to give her the best 
 possible reception he could. Accordingly, the 
 poop ladders were removed, and the deck cleared 
 for action. We had only six guns on board, which 
 were kept in readiness — the gunner was called 
 upon to do his best in case of action. The cap- 
 tain, in the meantime, kept watching her move- 
 ments by the aid of his glass. 
 
 A dead calm now succeeded the wind ; and as 
 we and many others were looking at our suspected 
 enemy from the poop, and forming all sorts of 
 conjectures about her, one of the midshipmen 
 cried out, she is shortening the sails. " What ?" 
 exclaimed the captain. She is shortening the 
 sails, sir,'^ was the answer. He looked through 
 the glass, and found that it was the fact ; and our 
 suspicions were the more enhanced that she was 
 really a pirate ship, and there were many opinions 
 expressed about her superiority over us in force, 
 and how ill-prepared we were to meet her. How- 
 ever, there was a great deal of anxiety and activity 
 on board.. 
 
 The captain being sensible of his inferior force 
 as a merchantman, very prudently did not allow 
 the sails to be taken in, lest he should excite the 
 
22 
 
 attention of the Pirate, but made every possible 
 effort in defensive preparations. An hour elapsed, 
 but there was no further symptoms of hostihty on 
 her part, and we could not make out what she 
 was about. 
 
 She was now within two miles ahead of us, and 
 the captain again ordered the colours to be hoisted, 
 and we were rather surprised to see that she 
 exhibited in return the American flag. It was 
 now concluded that she was a trading ship, and 
 we could, by the aid of our glasses, see that her 
 deck was quite destitute of guns; and the few 
 hands that we saw, convinced us of her being far 
 from what we had suspected her to be. 
 
 A boat was immediately sent on board, in order 
 to learn what news she had brought from America. 
 Our friend the purser, the second officer, with 
 three other passengers, went with it, and the 
 account they brought was, that she was an Ame- 
 rican barque, bound for the African coast, for the 
 purpose of seal fishery: she had no later news 
 than what we had had at St. Helena, and her con- 
 dition was not worth noticing, and having mis- 
 taken us at first for a ship of war, she purposely 
 concealed her colours. A breeze having sprung 
 up at night, we lost sight of her the next morning. 
 
 We entered the English Channel with a favor- 
 able wind, and on the 20th of August, at five in 
 the afternoon, we descried the land, and in the 
 evening saw the light of the Eddystone light- 
 house ; and the joy, evinced by all the people on 
 
23 
 
 board on seeing the shores of their native land 
 after such a long and monotonous passage^ and 
 the anticipated pleasure of seeing their friends and 
 families after a long privation^ may be more readily 
 conceived than described. 
 
 We arrived at Dover with a favourable and 
 fresh westerly gale, and it was a beautiful sight to 
 see the ship move at the rate of eight knots an 
 hour with double-reefed topsails ; a great many 
 of the passengers left the ship; our friend Mr. 
 Stuart also went on shore to proceed to London, 
 and from thence to send two steamers to tow us 
 into the Thames River. From here we took a 
 pilot on board, and came to anchor at the Nore, 
 with the assistance of a steamer that arrived to 
 tow us. 
 
 We should have mentioned, the cliffs at Dover 
 are high and chalky, and the celebrated castle 
 called Dover Castle, is seen standing on the 
 highest part ; immediately below it, to the west, 
 is situated the town of Dover. This place is 
 considered of the greatest importance in a mili- 
 tary point of view, as it defends the entrance to 
 the rivers Thames and Medway ; the fortifi- 
 cations have received many improvements during 
 the last French revolution, and it was made a mili- 
 tary station. It has extensive excavated barracks, 
 which would contain upwards of three thousand 
 men. 
 
 The strait of Dover divides England and 
 
24 
 
 France^ and the castle is about 21 miles distant 
 from the coast of France, which is in sight. 
 
 Here we were greatly surprised to see the 
 amazing number of ships going out and pour- 
 ing into the Thames^ and steamers every now 
 and then running backwards and forwards; we 
 cannot convey to our countrymen any idea of 
 this immense number of vessels^ and the beauty 
 of the sight. You will see colliers, timber ships, 
 merchantmen, steamers, and many other crafts, 
 from all parts of the world, hastening, as it were, 
 to seek refuge in a river, which is but a stream 
 compared to the Ganges and the Indus, or the 
 still larger rivers of America. We thought it a 
 great wonder that such a small and insignificant a 
 speck as England appears on the map of the 
 world, can thus attract so many nations of the 
 world towards her ; and we asked ourselves, why 
 should not those mighty rivers and countries, 
 which have naturally much better accommoda- 
 tions for commerce than England, be not fre- 
 quented as much. But a moment's reflection 
 satisfied us on this point — the answer presented 
 itself — and we will tell our countrymen that it is 
 the persevering habits of the English, it is the 
 labour and skill of that people, that is the cause 
 of such attraction. They are never satisfied with 
 any one thing unless it is brought to perfection, 
 it does not matter at what sacrifice. They are ever 
 ready to receive improvements, and thus they have 
 
25 
 
 attained that celebrity in their manufactures that 
 countries which grow materials bring them here 
 to be converted into useful things, which are 
 distributed all over the world; and while other 
 countries were satisfied with what they had, 
 England was eager to augment her resources. 
 And how has she effected this ? What has been 
 the principal means of her doing it ? Why, by 
 knowledge or science put in practice, because 
 knowledge is power ; and it is by the power of 
 knowledge alone^ and not by the power of arms, 
 that she has so many means of attracting the 
 world to her^ and extending the spread of her 
 manufactures : however, this is a digression — we 
 will speak of it another time, and now return to 
 our voyage. Another steamer arrived the next 
 day, and we were taken to Gravesend by their 
 joint efforts. Thus ended our voyage, and we 
 returned thanks to our Creator in thus conducting 
 us safely through the numerous perils of the 
 ocean. Before we take leave of the subject, we 
 have to acknowledge the uniform kindness and 
 attention we received from our good friend Cap- 
 tain Hopkins, as well as the trouble he always 
 took in studying our comforts during the voyage ; 
 and we feel equally sensible of the civility we 
 received from his officers, to all of whom we 
 would wish to return our sincere thanks. 
 
26 
 
 CHAPTER 11. 
 
 ARRIVAL AT GRAVESEND, AND PASSAGE TO 
 LONDON. 
 
 On the 27th of August^ 1838^ the Buckingham- 
 shire arrived at Gravesend^ at five o'clock in the 
 afternoon^ and we immediately went on board a 
 commodious steam-vessel belonging to the " Dia- 
 mond^' Company, in order to proceed to London ; 
 the distance between these two places is thirty 
 miles. This was the first time we were ever on 
 board a steam-vessel going from one place to 
 another^ and we were very much struck with the 
 good accommodations for so short a passage. 
 There are three cabins^ or saloons ; the one nearest 
 the stern is appropriated to the female passengers 
 (who pay 2^. each for their passage), fitted all 
 round with handsome sofas ; and there is also a 
 large cabin adjoining, called the grand saloon, 
 where both males and females, who pay 2s», are 
 mingled together. This is elegantly fitted up ; 
 handsome couches all around. A large mirror is 
 over the fire-place, and a number of mahogany 
 tables are distributed about the saloon, which has 
 a most beautiful appearance. There is also a very 
 
27 
 
 large cabin in the fore-part of the vessel^ where 
 all persons who pay Is. 6d. each for their passage 
 resort ; and upon the deck, abaft the paddle-boxes^ 
 there are several cabins for those who pay the 
 same fare as the after cabin : any person who 
 passes to the sternward of the funnel pays the 
 higher rate of passage money. 
 
 In the principal saloon, you can have either 
 breakfast, dinner, or any refreshments you re- 
 quire, consisting of tea, coffee, and cold meats, 
 ale, porter, or wine, at very moderate charges. 
 One shilling and sixpence for a hot dinner, exclu- 
 sive of wine, or any spirit ; one shilling for either 
 breakfast in the morning, or tea in the afternoon, 
 with butter, and good new bread. A very large 
 proportion of the passengers take a meal on board 
 to save time, thus eating as they travel. 
 
 These boats have carried as many as twelve 
 hundred passengers at one time, and one of the 
 vessels carried fourteen hundred on the day King 
 William IV. was buried. 
 
 There were many people on board, and we were 
 the objects of great attraction, and many were 
 anxious to know where we came from, and who 
 we were ; and our friend Captain Hopkins, who 
 w^as with us, satisfied their curiosity on these 
 points. It was a beautiful clear evening, and the 
 wind being favourable to us made it very agreeable. 
 The steamer was going at the rate of 11 miles an 
 hour, and the music playing on board was really 
 
28 
 
 delightful. The river Thames is the largest river 
 in England ; and when we came within about five 
 miles of London^ we were surprised at the amazing 
 number of vessels, from the humble barge to the 
 more beautiful ships and steamers of all descrip- 
 tions. The colliers were the most numerous, and 
 vessels were anchored close to each other, and 
 the river seemed to be almost covered with ves- 
 sels ; and the masts and yards give it the appear- 
 ance of a forest at a distance. Indeed, there were 
 to be found ships from all parts of Europe, Asia, 
 Africa, and America ; and a great number of 
 steamers ply about, in all directions, filled with 
 passengers. 
 
 None of our countrymen can form an idea 
 of this noble river, and the shipping on it. The 
 English may well be proud of it, though a small 
 stream, compared to some of the largest rivers of 
 the world. The traffic that is carried on, is, we 
 may say, not to be surpassed by any. 
 
 London is said to be at present the metropolis 
 of the commercial world, and we never can doubt 
 the assertion, because we have had opportunities 
 of seeing the extensive trade carried on, and the 
 means the English have of supplying the world 
 with the produce of their labour and industry. 
 
 It was nearly dusk when we arrived at London 
 Bridge, notwithstanding which, an immense num- 
 l3er of persons flocked round us to view our cos- 
 tume ; for in addition to our two selves, we were 
 
29 
 
 accompanied by a friend, and also by two of our 
 domestics^ and five individuals in the Parsee 
 costume^ collected quite a mob^ through which it 
 was difficult to pass to our carriage ; we think quite 
 a thousand persons were congregated together. 
 We proceeded through the city of London to the 
 Portland Hotel^ where arrangements for our re- 
 ception had been j)reviously made. And from 
 the immense number of people^ and vehicles of 
 every description^ that we saw hurrying along, 
 aj^parently in great haste, and from the increasing 
 noise, we were apprehensive that some public 
 commotion had taken place, or that there was 
 some grand spectacle to be witnessed, towards 
 wliich they were thus hastening. But yet it 
 appeared so odd, that there was as much haste 
 and desire to get forward in those who moved 
 eastward, as well as in those who were progressing 
 westward. Every street down which we looked, 
 appeared to be pouring out countless multitudes 
 to swell the throng. And we w^ere lost in conjec- 
 ture as to what this bustle could possibly mean. 
 But when we were afterwards informed that this 
 constant tide of human beings was to be witnessed 
 every day for twelve or fourteen hours, we were, 
 indeed, lost in amazement, at the myriads that 
 must exist in London, to furnish out of doors 
 such an exhibition of people. 
 
30 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 INTRODUCTION TO SIR CHARLES FORBES. — THE 
 DIORAMA AND THE ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS. 
 
 We were honored by being called upon by our 
 kind and worthy friend Sir Charles Forbes^ Bart, 
 his son George Forbes^ Esq. and Captain Cogan. 
 Sir Charles Forbes very kindly took us to the 
 Regent^s Park, where John Romer Esq. late 
 Councellor and acting Governor at Bombay^ re- 
 sided, and to whom we had letters of introduction ; 
 we were handsomely received by him. 
 
 Sir Charles then took us to see an exhibition 
 called the Diorama, situated in the Park. It is a 
 most extraordinary optical illusion. Upon our 
 entering we beheld as we believed the interior of a 
 spacious buildings intended to represent the in- 
 terior of a church at Florence ; most beautiful 
 v/ere its fittings^ and its style of architecture was 
 magnificent ; whilst we were looking on in wonder 
 and surprise, it became enveloped in flames, and 
 we much regretted to see so beautiful a place 
 thus destroyed. The fire continued to rage until 
 all the decorations and fittings disappeared, one 
 after the other, and in a short time we saw only 
 
31 
 
 a mass of ruins, where we had just previously 
 been gazing upon that beautiful building. We 
 have since learned that the mode adopted to pro- 
 duce this imposing spectacle is a modification of 
 an exhibition called the Phantasmagoria, which 
 some forty years ago used to fill crowded audiences 
 with much terror. Spectral figures appearing to 
 approach, and retire ; appearing sometimes as 
 small as a rupee and gradually assuming a colossal 
 stature, and then again gradually becoming less 
 and less until finally disappearing. It is managed 
 with a magic lanthorn prepared especially with 
 lenses of great power, and the shadow is caught 
 and embodied upon very fine muslin, which is 
 drawn across between the lanthorn and the be- 
 holders, and the light is judiciously admitted from 
 above and at the sides, and the fire of course is 
 merely chemical or false fire, — at all events it w^as 
 to us a very great treat. The terms of admission 
 is two shillings. 
 
 Sir Charles Forbes in the afternoon of the 
 same day, took us in his carriage to a most lovely 
 spot in the Park, called the Zoological Gardens ; 
 on our way thither we saw a great number of very 
 elegant carriages, drawn by beautiful spirited 
 horses, with harness of superior description, and 
 the coachmen and servants behind the carriages 
 dressed in liveries of every known colour ; with- 
 in the carriages as they swiftly rolled by, we saw 
 many women, fair and with light hair, many 
 
32 
 
 of them appeared to us most beautiful. All of 
 them appeared to have mild blue eyes^ and very 
 sweet expression of countenance^ and we saw 
 more of female beauty in a few hours^ than we 
 had ever beheld in all our lives. 
 
 The buildings within the Park are magni- 
 ficent. This establishment is kept up by annual 
 subscription and every subscriber has an un- 
 limited number of tickets, which admit themselves 
 and the resident members of their families gra- 
 tuitously, and any other person who may present 
 them upon payment of one shilling each. 
 
 Within this garden, in appropriate buildings, are 
 congregated almost every description of foreign 
 and domestic animals and birds. From the 
 lordly half reasoning Elephant down to Mice, 
 and from the Ostrich and Cassowary down to the 
 Humming Bird. There are Lions, Tigers, Panthers, 
 Bears, Wolves, Hyenas, Jackalls, Wild Boars, 
 Zebras, and indeed all and every known animal. 
 Of the monkey tribe there were hundreds, from the 
 Ourang-Otang to the little Marmoset no longer 
 than a Rat. And to see their antics and freaks 
 perpetually in motion, squeaking, grinning, making 
 all sorts of grimaces is very amusing. 
 
 The birds were of all sorts ; of the Parrot and 
 Macaw sort, there were several score. And oh ! 
 how beautiful were they, scarlet, green, gray? 
 white, all the colours of the rainbow. Eagles of 
 every known sort. Owls a great number. Hawks 
 
33 
 
 an immense variety, and the Water Fowl from 
 the graceful Swan to the minute little Teal and 
 Dabchick. We were very much delighted. 
 
 The Elephant was so extremely docile and 
 obedient to his keeper that he took a small piece 
 of money and handed to a person who sold cakes to 
 receive some of them in exchange for his money. 
 The Bears too amused us very much, they were in 
 a deep pit in the centre of which there was fixed 
 a straight pole of wood, up which they kept 
 crawling to receive from the spectators a cake 
 upon a stick, when clasping the pole with their 
 claw^s, down they slid just like a sailor with a rope. 
 Some of the monkeys appeared to be quite de- 
 lighted to be taken notice of. Every thing 
 connected with the animals is kept perfectly clean 
 by the keepers, a large number of whom are con- 
 stantly employed. The expences of this establish- 
 ment must be enormous, if we take into con- 
 sideration the first cost of the animals; the 
 Rhinoceros only we were told cost one thousand 
 guineas, which in round numbers is equal to 
 eleven thousand rupees, the daily consumption of 
 food, the wages paid to the servants, and the 
 keeping in constant order the buildings necessary 
 for the safety and preservation of so large a 
 collection. This place is always resorted to by 
 those w^ho can afford to pay for admission in the 
 evening, especially in summer, and here while 
 they amuse themselves they gain information. 
 
34 
 
 During the whole time we were in the Garden, 
 we attracted a very great number around us from 
 the pecuharity of our dress, and we w^ere objects 
 of very great curiosity to the visitors, — as much so 
 perhaps as the winged and four footed inmates of 
 the place. 
 
 It was amusing to hear one call us Chinese, 
 they are Turks says another ; no they are Spanish, 
 vociferates a third ; thus they were labouring 
 under mistakes, and taking inhabitants of British 
 India for natives of Europe. 
 
 We have also seen the Surrey Zoological 
 Gardens, which lie about a mile and a half above 
 the Blackfriars Bridge on the Surrey side of the 
 Thames, but with the exception of a conservatory 
 of beautiful plants upwards of three hundred feet 
 in circumference, it has so near a resemblance in 
 its inmates to that in the Regent^s Park, that no 
 particular description is necessar)^ 
 
 The plants are principally rare climbers, and 
 and will Avell repay the florist for his trouble in 
 visiting this place. 
 
 Here is a better collection of wild beasts ; and 
 an order of a subscriber and the payment of one 
 shilling admits you. 
 
35 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 INTRODUCTION AND RECEPTION AT THE EAST 
 INDIA HOUSE. 
 
 Shortly after our arrival in England, we were 
 taken by our friend, Mr. George Forbes, to the 
 East India House in Leadenhall Street, and we 
 had the honor of being introduced to the then 
 Chairman of the Honorable East India Company, 
 Sir James Law Lushington, and the Deputy Chair- 
 man, Richard Jenkins, Esq. (now Sir Richard 
 Jenkins). We were received with great conde- 
 scension by them, and were assured of our re- 
 ceiving every encouragement during the prosecu- 
 tion of our studies in Great Britain. 
 
 We were very much struck with the appearance 
 of the India House, and we could not help re- 
 marking how much of the future happiness or the 
 misery of the countless millions of India depended 
 on the transactions carried on within the walls of 
 this building, and as we thought that our country- 
 men would like to know something about this 
 celebrated place, we have, in another part of this 
 little work, annexed a brief account of it, as well 
 
36 
 
 as the origin and the history of the Company, 
 which we hope will prove acceptable. 
 
 We subsequently waited upon several members 
 of the Honorable Court of Directors, and their 
 worthy Secretary, James Cosmo Melvill, Esq., 
 and J. C. Mason, Esq. (Marine Branch), from all 
 of whom we met with the kindest reception, and 
 subsequently experienced many favors, which 
 we have acknowledged in our preface. 
 
 We had brought a letter from one of our native 
 friends, to our present worthy governor, Sir 
 James Rivett Carnac, Bart., and it would be 
 impossible for us to express our gratitude in 
 terms strong enough for the numerous favors 
 conferred on us by that excellent and w^orthy 
 personage. We had the high honor of being 
 introduced to the Right Honorable Earl of 
 Minto, First Lord of the Admiralty, the Right 
 Honorable Lord Glenelg, the then Colonial 
 Secretary, Sir John Barrow, Bart., Secretary to 
 the Admiralty, and Sir WiUiam Symonds, Sur- 
 . veyor of Her Majesty's Navy, by the means of 
 letters which Sir James honored us with, and 
 the reception and civility we met with from these 
 noblemen and gentlemen, far exceeded all our 
 expectations. We hailed his Excellency's appoint- 
 ment (which very shortly took place), as Governor 
 of Bombay, with much pleasure and satisfaction, 
 as we knew the regard he had for the natives of 
 India : and on our waiting upon His Excellency a 
 
37 
 
 few weeks before his departure, he most kindly 
 and condescendingly expressed a desire for us to 
 come from Egham to pay our respects just before 
 he left England. We did not fail to do so; and 
 on our taking leave, we sincerely prayed to our 
 God for health and happiness to himself and his 
 family, and we deeply regret the indifferent ac- 
 counts, that have reached us since his Excel- 
 lency's arrival at Bombay, concerning his health, 
 but trust that Providence will, ere long, restore 
 him to strength and vigor, and that he may long 
 enjoy all the blessings in this world. 
 
 The anxiety His Excellency evinced for our 
 improvement was very great; it was now three 
 months since we had commenced our studies, and 
 had made a little progress in them, with which 
 His Excellency was much pleased, and suggested 
 the propriety of sending out the book we had 
 written to our friends, in order that they may 
 know what we have been doing, at the same time 
 he condescendingly undertook to take them out and 
 deliver them to our friends at Bombay. This we 
 considered a very great favor, and we very much 
 admired the affability and kindness with which 
 His Excellency treated us, who were so much 
 inferior to himself in station of life, rank, and 
 fortune ; but we concluded that it is by good be- 
 haviour that one secures kindness and esteem of 
 great men in England, and not by wealth and 
 
38 
 
 fortune. We also had the honor of being mtro- 
 duced to one of the Misses Carnac, 
 
 We beg the indulgence of our readers for occu- 
 pying so much of their time in enumerating all we 
 have said, but we feel that we should be w^anting 
 in gratitude did we not inform our countrymen 
 of the attention we met with in England, in order 
 that they may be actuated to visit the country for 
 the purpose of educating and enlightening them- 
 selves, and that by their seeing the wonderful -pro- 
 gress the English have made in the arts and 
 sciences, they may excite the energy of their fel- 
 low-brethren in India, and impress them the more 
 with the great importance of knowledge, and of 
 which we are so much in need. 
 
89 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 PUBLIC CONVEYANCES AND BRIDGES. 
 
 One of the first things that struck us with asto- 
 nishment was the immense number of carriages 
 of different descriptions^ that are to be made use 
 of in London for conveyance of passengers from 
 one part to another, and the largest^ which are 
 called Omnibusses^ first claim our attention; a 
 carriage of this description is in the possession 
 of Framjee Cowasjee, Esq., at Bombay, which, we 
 believe, he ordered to be made in England, for his 
 own use, a few years ago. Where they all come 
 from, where they are going, where the people 
 could be found to fill them; how the owners, 
 drivers, and conductors were to be paid seemed 
 a mystery to us, and we diligently sought for in- 
 formation upon this subject. We hear that nearly 
 seven hundred are running in all directions every 
 day; and as some of them perform their jour- 
 neys four times each day, they pass a given spot each 
 day eight times, thus making above five thousand 
 trips a-day. They cost from £100 to ^140 each, 
 and are so constructed as to carry twelve or fourteen 
 
40 
 
 persons inside^ with their faces to each other, and 
 three or four on the top. They are mostly fitted 
 up very nicely inside^ lined principally with a kind 
 of plushy something like velvet, either red or 
 green ; many of them have a lamp at the end ; 
 and to the great mass of London population are a 
 very great comfort. The price charged is six- 
 pence for each person, and for this sum you may 
 ride from below Islington to Charing Cross, about 
 five miles, and from the East India Docks to Ox- 
 ford Street, which is about six miles, for the same. 
 But although you may ride this distance, and 
 many do, yet the greater proportion only ride 
 about half the distance ; and the calculation is 
 made by the proprietor, that they will in a journey 
 of that length have two separate loadings. It is 
 quite amusing sometimes to see a stranger get 
 into one of these vehicles, and desire to be set 
 down at a named place, which perhaps is not 
 more than a quarter of a mile from the spot 
 where he got in. The better plan for a stranger 
 to pursue is to ascertain that the Omnibus he 
 gets into is nearly full, then will he be sure, if 
 there is no accident, to reach his desired object 
 rapidly. But should he get into one nearly 
 empty, he will be annoyed by finding that his 
 journey will be indeed a long one; for, although 
 there is a heavy penalty against their stopping 
 at any except particular places, or to take up a 
 passenger ; still they evade the law by not indeed 
 
41 
 
 Stopping, but moving at such a pace that one 
 could with ease get on twice as fast by walking. 
 The greatest number that run in any direction 
 are from Paddington to the Bank^ which is quite 
 five miles^ and a very bad road to travel^ as there 
 are steep hills. They run about one in every 
 three minutes^ from soon after eight in the morn- 
 ing until after ten at night. In addition to the 
 first cost of the Omnibus and harness^ we must 
 add that of the horses ; and, although the Omni- 
 bus is only drawn by two horses^ every proprietor 
 of two Omnibusses is obliged to keep at least 
 seven horses^ so as to give the proper rest to 
 enable them to drag these heavy loads. The Om- 
 nibus weighs about 17 cwt. of 112 Ibs.^ and eigh- 
 teen passengers^ a driver and a conductor^ would 
 weigh more than a ton ; so that they have, a 
 great portion of their journeys, to drag nearly two 
 tons Aveight, at an average speed of more than six 
 miles an hour. The cost, then, of two Omni- 
 busses, and their harness for horses, would be at 
 least £250; the seven horses would cost quite 
 £25 each ; there are the daily wages of the driver 
 and conductor (the latter receives 4^. a day). 
 Then there is the keep of each horse, which at 
 least, to keep them in good condition, would 
 amount to 1^. 6d, a day each. There is the 
 constant wear and tear of machines and harness, 
 the shoeing of the horses, the mileage duty which 
 they pay for running, the turnpikes, the accidents, 
 
42 
 
 the occasional fines for breaches of law ; and it is 
 wonderful how^ with sixpenny fares^ they can 
 make it pay them. But although a doubtful spe- 
 culation to the owners, to the public they are a 
 very great accommodation; from every place within 
 four miles of London they are constantly run- 
 ning, and at several periods of the day they have 
 quite different classes of customers. At about a 
 quarter before nine you will see all the Omni- 
 busses approaching the neighbourhood of the 
 Bank with sober-looking business-hke persons, 
 who are principally clerks in the Bank of England, 
 the numerous private banking houses, or some of 
 the thousand mercantile firms in that vicinity. 
 At first sight it appears extravagant that you 
 should daily see the same persons, at the same 
 hour, alight from the same vehicle, and you think 
 it a lavish daily expenditure ; but most of them 
 are married men with large families, who reside 
 in a neighbourhood where they can have a com- 
 modious house in an airy situation at a moderate 
 rent, which enables them to add the six shillings 
 per week which they pay for riding to the article 
 of rent, and even then they can get a house at 
 nearly half what they would pay for one in a con- 
 fined situation nearer to their business. At about 
 ten, or half past, you see men a little gayer in 
 their attire, a great deal stilFer in their manners, 
 and who seem to think themselves very great 
 men ; these are the upper clerks and cashiers of 
 
43 
 
 banking houses. About this time^ too, you will 
 see smirking^ priggish-looking men arriving in 
 great numbers, many of them, if not Jews, looking 
 to have a cross of the Israelite in their blood : should 
 you happen to be in the same Omnibus with 
 them^ you can immediately detect them ; should 
 an intimate friend get into the Omnibus, they will 
 play some quiet practical joke upon him as he 
 passes, either by putting out their feet to cause 
 him to stumble, pulling his coat tail, or some 
 boyish freak to get their hands in for their child- 
 ish play, when they get to kicking each other^s 
 hats to pieces in their room for business. Some 
 of these are members of the Stock Exchange, 
 where money operations are transacted. The 
 next lot consists of the principals of firms, who 
 ride up in the Omnibus to their house of busi- 
 ness in the morning, and their wives and daughters 
 come about two or three in the afternoon, in their 
 own carriages, to fetch them for a drive in their 
 way home. Most of these persons are daily 
 taken up at their own doors ; and at the several 
 hours of three, four, five and six, may be seen 
 progressing to the side of the Bank to re-enter 
 their vehicles, upon their return to spend a plea- 
 sant evening in the bosom of their families. 
 Ver)^ few ladies are to be met with in Omnibusses ; 
 they do occasionally ride in them, but only in or 
 out of town. To travellers in quest of orders, 
 visitors to London who wish to see all they can as 
 
44 
 
 soon as time will admits and at as cheap a rate 
 as possible, Omnibusses are of very great advan- 
 tage. 
 
 We were also much surprised to see standing 
 in the middle of the principal streets a very great 
 number of carriages drawn by two, and smaller 
 ones by a single horse, all of which are for hire ; 
 and for very small sums you can go to any dis- 
 tance you please. The larger ones are called 
 Hackney-coaches, and the little ones are called 
 Cabs. Their drivers are very apt to impose, and 
 the law has fixed what they are to charge ; and 
 they are heavily fined if they demand more 
 than they ought to do. Their rates are as fol- 
 lows : — For Hackney-coaches, any distance not 
 exceeding one mile, one shilling; and for any 
 distance exceeding one mile after the rate of six- 
 pence for every half mile, or any fractional part of 
 half-a-mile. But as many persons who hire 
 them wish to call upon their friends, and pay a 
 visit, and prefer the coach to wait for them, the 
 following is their fares computed by time : — 
 
 Not exceeding 
 
 s. 
 
 d. 
 
 Not exceeding 
 
 s. 
 
 d. 
 
 30 minutes .... 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 45 „ .... 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 2 hours and a quarter 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 1 hour .... 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 2 hours and a half . 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 1 hour and quarter . 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 2 hours and 3 quarters 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 1 hour and half 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 
 G 
 
 0 
 
 i hour and 3 quarters 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 
 and go on, for any time not exceeding three 
 
45 
 
 hours^ after the rate of sixpence for every fif- 
 teen minutes^ or a fractional part of fifteen mi- 
 nutes. 
 
 The driver has the power to charge by distance 
 or time; cabriolets (or cabs) are one third less 
 than the above. Strangers^ who have boxes or 
 any luggage, should always say to the driver^ before 
 they get into either a hackney-coach or a cab^ 
 
 Remember, you are not to charge anything for 
 my luggage/^ when they will always agree to 
 make no extra charge for that; else, when they 
 put you down, they will always try to make you 
 pay for it. You should always take the number, 
 which is painted outside coaches and cabs, or shewn 
 on a metal plate with raised figures hung inside the 
 carriages ; because, if the drivers are insolent, or 
 overcharge you, or if you leave anything in them, 
 you have only to apply to the office in Somerset 
 House, where they are registered, to get justice 
 done you. 
 
 The number of hackney-coaches which are about 
 London streets is from six to seven hundred; a 
 very great proportion of them are large, and will 
 carry six persons ; and although they are only 
 licensed to carry four, the coachman will not 
 object to as many riding as wish to get in, but he 
 claims an extra fare for every person above 
 four that he may be required to carry. A great 
 many of them, perhaps ninety out of every hun- 
 dred of them, have formerly been carriages be- 
 
46 
 
 longing to the nobility and gentry: the coach 
 builders have taken them in exchange for more 
 modern ones, and after being fresh painted 
 and varnished, they are purchased by the pro- 
 prietors of hackney coaches. There are a con- 
 siderable number of chariots, to carry three 
 persons inside, most of them also were built and 
 first used by gentlemen, and when they began to 
 get soiled and to look shabby they got into their 
 present occupation. The cabriolets (or cabs) as 
 they are most commonly called are small light 
 two wheeled carriages to carry two persons drawn 
 by one horse — although there are some modern 
 ones with four wheels which shut uj) and you get 
 in at a door at the side. Omnibusses answer the 
 purpose very well for all persons in London who 
 are going to any place close to the street through 
 which they pass, and where saving of money is an 
 object, as for the small charge of sixpence, you 
 can ride for many miles as previously shewn. 
 But if you are going to any of the squares, at the 
 west end, and are not in a great hurry, for one 
 shilling per mile you can have an hackney coach 
 or chariot, but if you want to go only one hun- 
 dred yards it is still a shilling. The great 
 advantage to strangers is that the drivers of 
 hackney coaches and cabs know every place, and 
 you have only to name where you wish to go to, 
 when they drive forthwith to the spot, and know- 
 ing all the bye streets they are enabled to get 
 
47 
 
 quicker to their journey^s end, than if they kept 
 in the principal thoroughfares^ where there are 
 frequently long stoppages. But before you get 
 in^ ask of some respectable shopkeeper or of a 
 policeman^ how far it is to where you wish to 
 go, and then tell the coachman that you under- 
 stand it is so far, and if he will take you and 
 your luggage for such a sum you will go, and not 
 otherwise, then you will be secure from imposi- 
 tion ; or tell him to drive you two, three, or four 
 miles in the direction of the place to which you 
 wish to go. 
 
 It is supposed there are about fifteen hundred 
 cabs and their charge is eight pence per mile, and if 
 you are in haste to get any where, you can readily 
 select one with a good horse, which will get you 
 over the ground at more than eight miles an hour ; 
 it is wonderful they are not crushed to pieces ; you 
 will see them fly through an opening between an 
 omnibus and a heavy waggon with not more than 
 an inch to spare on either side, and it is quite 
 fearful to a stranger to see them thus braving all 
 risks to gain time. It is very amusing to those 
 who know London well to see how cunning and 
 knowing the drivers of these vehicles look, when a 
 stranger directs them to drive to any place not 
 more than a few yards distance. Their thumb is 
 placed to their nose and a twirl of their out- 
 stretched fingers announces to their brethren that 
 they have caught a flat,^^ to use their own words. 
 
48 
 
 Mr. Austin the master Rigger of Chatham Yard 
 was Boatswain to Admiral Nelson and after one 
 of his great victories had occasion to visit the 
 Admiralty, he knew little of London^ and having 
 been stopping at the Golden Cross, Charing Cross, 
 which is in sight_, and within a few yards, of the 
 Admiralty, he called a coach and ordered to be 
 driven there. He was shut into his vehicle 
 driven round by Spring Garden, instead of cross- 
 ing the road direct to it, and in a few seconds was 
 set down and paid his shilling. He often now 
 laughs heartily at his short ride. Coaches and 
 Cabriolets with their horses are to be found with 
 their drivers night and day, rain or shine, upon 
 tbeir stands; the horse has his food in his nosebag, 
 a man to w^ater them is upon each stand, and the 
 horses and drivers appear to be of that description 
 of animals that no weather can hurt, no disease 
 reach, and in fact weather proof. It is said that, 
 the expenditure upon a hackney coach for the 
 duty, licenses and feeding of their horses is up- 
 wards of thirty shillings per week, there is then 
 the driver to keep, an occasional new horse, and 
 repairs to their carriages, so . that these also, 
 although a great comfort and convenience to the 
 public, must be a speculation not paying largely 
 for the capital employed, including risks. 
 
 We may as well at this part state that private 
 vehicles of every description may be hired in 
 London, and on the evening of Sunday it is 
 
49 
 
 curious to see the thousands of various carriages 
 and horses which are coming from all points 
 into. London, You will see Stanhopes^ Dennetts 
 and Cabs of high finish and good horses ; you will 
 see Gigs and Pony Chaises, Taxed Carts and 
 every other description of known vehicle into 
 which a horse can be placed ; the poor horses 
 dragging along their heavy loads^ as if every body 
 was resolved to get as much work out of them as 
 they possibly can. You will see many hundreds 
 of four wheeled open chaises drawn by one horse, 
 with seven or eight heavy persons behind a poor 
 worn out animal^ and generally the lash of the 
 whip worn off, and part of the leather thong un- 
 twisted by thrashing the wretched creature to 
 make him increase his speed. You will see poor 
 miserable undersized donkeys drawing a cart full of 
 people and the driver with a stout stick constantly 
 beating the poor half starved animal ; all this 
 may be seen at any of the principal entrances, 
 such as Hyde Park Corner, Elephant and Castle, 
 or Shoreditch Church. 
 
 Yet perhaps no where can such really elegant 
 carriages and good horses be procured, as may 
 be had for hire in London by those to whom 
 money is no object ; you can at some of the 
 Mews in London procure for about two pounds 
 for the day of sixteen hours, a carriage that 
 cannot be distinguished from the undeqorated 
 carriage of a nobleman, with horses as good as are 
 
 D 
 
50 
 
 driven by any gentleman, and you may be driven 
 (as far as the strength of the horses will enable 
 them to draw a carriage) by a decent dressed 
 coachman^ whom nobody would know from a 
 servant out of livery. 
 
 Very many persons who have houses with- 
 out the convenience of stables for their horses^ 
 or being without a coach house, contract at 
 perhaps £300. a year for a man and pair of 
 handsome horses with a beautiful carriage to come 
 to their houses every day, and in fact use them 
 exactly as if they were their own, having this 
 additional advantage that whereas sometimes their 
 own horses would be unwell, and they would be 
 unable to use them, the parties agreeing to furnish 
 the horses and carriages, have to provide horses 
 every day in the year by substituting fresh horses 
 when necessary : Physicians and Surgeons do this 
 sort of thing very often. 
 
 There are other persons who wish to ride 
 three times in every week upon fixed days 
 at certain hours, and these persons for riding 
 four or five hours each day in a similar vehicle 
 pay about £lOO. a year. There are others who 
 always have a good vehicle on the Sunday for four 
 or five hours, and pay about £6*0. a year, all the 
 above named terms are for first rate carriages and 
 horses ; others from which the first gloss has been 
 worn off and horses of second rate quality are to 
 be had for much less money, perhaps about half 
 
51 
 
 the sums named. Another mode is for persons 
 who keep their own carriage hiring by the year 
 from the Livery Stable keepers, horses which are 
 groomed, and driven by the gentleman^s own 
 servants, the person constantly agreeing to furnish 
 them continually with good handsome horses. A 
 large proportion of travelling in England, is by what 
 are called post horses and post chaises. These 
 are carriages like chariots, and are drawn by two 
 horses most usually, but four when required. The 
 carriages are very good and easy to travel in, but 
 in a conspicuous situation upon all of them is 
 placed the owner^s name and place of abode, so 
 that they cannot be mistaken for private carriages. 
 For a chaise with a pair of horses you pay fifteen 
 pence per mile, and at about every eight or ten 
 miles you have fresh horses, and post boy, to 
 whom about two shillings and six pence per stage 
 of eight or ten miles is given. If you add to this 
 the payment of turnpikes to keep the roads good, 
 it will amount to about one shilling and ten pence 
 per mile. If you have four horses you have two 
 post boys to pay, and then there is thirty pence a 
 mile for chaise and horses to pay. You can travel 
 from seven to eleven miles per hour at your 
 discretion by either of these modes. 
 
 But for travelling expeditiously and pleasantly 
 there is nothing like a well horsed stage coach^ where 
 four, or in some coaches six ride inside, and ten or 
 twelve on the top. These stage coaches are many 
 
52 
 
 of tliem beautifully built and tastefully decorated, 
 with high bred blood horses that only require to be 
 guided and scarcely touched with the whip. The 
 coachmen are many of them in appearaace quite 
 gentlemen, indeed we believe there is one noble- 
 man, there certainly is one Baronet, and many of 
 the sons of gentlemen who drive stage coaches. 
 These travel at upwards of ten miles an hour, 
 they have fresh horses every eight or ten miles^ 
 and to those who wish to see scenery and to enjoy 
 a rapid travel through the country, let them some 
 fine summer^s morning get upon a coach box, 
 alongside of the coachman, who knows every 
 place and every thing connected with it, and we 
 are quite sure they will be amply repaid for their 
 trouble ; the rate of travelling is about threepence 
 per mile outside, and about fourpence halfpenny 
 per mile in the inside, added to which every time 
 you change your coachman, which in long journies is 
 about every thirty miles, the outside passengers 
 give the coachman one shilling each, and the 
 inside passengers two shillings each. 
 
 Having given the description of the public and 
 private conveyances of London, we cannot con- 
 clude the subject without suggesting to our 
 countrymen and proposing a plan for adopting the 
 omnibus system at Bombay. 
 
 We know that there are thousands of persons 
 residing out of Fort, and who hold appointments 
 in Town, at the numerous mercantile houses and at 
 
53 
 
 the public offices as clerks^ cash-keepers and others 
 employed in various duties, and many of them 
 are not in a position to keep a horse and gig, they in 
 consequence make up generally a party of three or 
 four and engage a bullock or horse carriage 
 for a sum of about 15 or 20 rupees per month 
 to convey them to and from the scene of their 
 business ; besides there are many who in very 
 hot sultry days or in wet weather prefer hiring a 
 conveyance to the fatigue of walking ; we are 
 therefore of opinion that if a company was 
 formed, and a sum sufficient to answer the cost of 
 carriages, horses, harness, &c. were raised, and 
 were these vehicles to leave town and the places 
 where those who thus daily come there reside, at 
 certain and convenient hours of the day they would 
 be sure to find a great number of passengers, who 
 would be glad to prefer it to the uncomfortable 
 and slow mode of locomotion we have at present. 
 
 A sum of 15000 rupees will be we think 
 sufficient for providing a dozen of omnibuses, 
 (which need not in the first instance be quite so 
 expensive as in England^ yet capable of carrying 
 as many passengers,) the horses and other furni- 
 ture, the keeping of them with the wages of the 
 driver and conductor and other expences including 
 the interest of the capital invested would come to 
 about one thousand rupees a month. Now sup- 
 pose we calculate each carriage to make daily 
 journies, conveying, at an average, twelve people 
 
54 
 
 backwards and forwards at the very moderate 
 charge of two annas each^ the daily income would 
 be six rupees^ and at that rate the whole of them 
 would bring 2160 rupees per month, which after 
 deducting the expences would leave a profit of 
 1160 rupees to the proprietors. Thus we have 
 shown on a rough calculation that it is not an 
 unprofitable speculation, and we most sincerely 
 trust that some of our countrymen will weigh and 
 consider the subject, and we are confident that 
 this mode of conveyance would add a great deal 
 to the physical comforts of the inhabitants of 
 Bombay. 
 
 Indeed the undertaking is within the reach of 
 a single individual, and we must observe that 
 should our suggestion be put in practice, it will be 
 necessary to obtain the sanction of the proper 
 authorities for it, as well as their protection to 
 the parties for the first few years against com- 
 petition, as a reward for the first enterprise. 
 
 BRIDGES. 
 
 We went to look frequently at the several bridges 
 of London, and beautiful structures they are ; we 
 cannot but regret that we could not insert plates 
 of them, but we can give all particulars about 
 them. 
 
55 
 
 
 Length. 
 
 Width. j 
 
 Height. 
 
 Number of 
 Arches. 
 
 Span of 
 Centre Arch. 
 
 Materials. | 
 
 i 
 1 
 
 Commenced. 
 
 Opened. 
 
 
 feet 
 
 feet 
 
 feet 
 
 
 feet 
 
 
 
 
 Old London Bridge . . 
 
 930 
 
 20 
 
 40 
 
 19 
 
 70 
 
 Stone and 
 
 1176 
 
 1209 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Rubbish. 
 
 
 
 Altered by Sir R. Taylor 
 
 >> 
 
 48 
 
 t> 
 
 20 
 
 
 
 »» 
 
 >» 
 
 New London Bridge 
 
 928 
 
 56 
 
 55 
 
 5 
 
 150 
 
 Granite. 
 
 March 15, 
 
 Aug. 1, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1824 
 
 1831 
 
 Westminster Bridge 
 
 1066 
 
 42 
 
 58 
 
 15 
 
 76 
 
 Portland 
 
 January, 
 
 1/50 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Stone. 
 
 1739 
 
 
 Blackfriars Bridge . . 
 
 1000 
 
 42 
 
 69 
 
 9 
 
 100 
 
 Portland 
 
 June, 
 
 1770 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Stone. 
 
 1760 
 
 
 Vauxhall Bridge . . . 
 
 809 
 
 36 
 
 >> 
 
 9 
 
 78 
 
 Iron and 
 
 May, 
 
 July, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Granite. 
 
 1811 
 
 1816 
 
 Waterloo Bridge . . . 
 
 1326 
 
 42 
 
 54 
 
 9 
 
 120 
 
 Cornish 
 
 October, 
 
 March, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Granite. 
 
 1811 
 
 I817 
 
 South wark Bridge , . 
 
 700 
 
 42 
 
 53 
 
 3 
 
 240 
 
 Iron. 
 
 September! 1819 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1814 
 
 
 London Bridge, it will be found above, has five 
 arches ; they are what architects call semi-elliptic^ 
 and they are by far the largest of this description 
 of arch ever previously erected. The middle arch 
 has a span of 152 feet, and is 29 feet 6 inches 
 above high water mark. The arches, on either 
 side next to the centre arch, have each 1 40 feet 
 span. The roadway is 53 feet wide between the 
 parapets ; and each of the footpaths occupy nine 
 feet out of that quantity. The rise in the road is 
 only 1 in 132. The bridge is all composed of 
 granite, and there were 120,000 tons of that stone 
 used in building it. To help the Corporation of 
 London to defray the expense of building it, they 
 are allowed, for 26 years, to charge a tax of lOd. 
 per chaldron of 36 bushels, upon all coals enter- 
 
56 
 
 ing the port of London. It was opened by the 
 King in person^ on the 1st of August, 1831, with 
 a very grand procession. It cost very nearly, 
 wdth the ground and houses they were obhged 
 to purchase for the approaches, two milhons of 
 pounds, or sixteen milhons of rupees. Some 
 of the piles of English oak, which were driven in 
 in the year 117^, were taken up in 1832, and Sir 
 Edward Banks, who was the contractor for build- 
 ing new London Bridge, finding them as sound 
 as when they were first driven, had several pieces 
 of handsome furniture, tables, &c., made from 
 them, which are now in the possession of his son 
 Delamarck Banks, Esq., of the Isle of Sheppy, 
 who is now, in 1841, the High Sheriff of Kent, 
 We ourselves have a box presented to us by Mr. 
 Baldock, the receiver of Chatham Dock Yard, 
 made from one of the piles, and which was given 
 to him by Mr. D, Banks. 
 
 Westminster Bridge is built of huge masses 
 of Portland stone ; few of them weigh less than a 
 ton, while many are two, three, four, and some as 
 much as five, tons each. The span of the middle 
 arch is seventy-six feet. The bridge, and its 
 approaches, cost £387,500. Government paid 
 the whole of this. ^197,500 was raised by lot- 
 teries, and the remainder was voted by parlia- 
 ment. There is supposed to have been twice as 
 much stone used in this bridge as in building St. 
 Paul's Cathedral. 
 
57 
 
 Waterloo Bridge^ which it will be seen^ is 
 the longest of the bridges, being one thousand 
 three hundred and twenty-six feet long, was built 
 by private individuals, but we know not the cost ; 
 it was thought that the toll of a penny for each 
 person passing, and a small sum to be paid for 
 each horse or carriage passing, would well repay 
 the proprietors, but it has not done so; even 
 this small payment has induced the crowd to pass 
 over the bridges where there is nothing to pay. 
 At this bridge there is an ingenious contrivance 
 by means of a turning stile, which registers the 
 number of individuals that pass the bridge, and 
 it is a great protection to the company against any 
 impropriety on the part of the toll gatherers, who 
 are answerable for the money received from the 
 public, and which must be equal to the registered 
 number. 
 
 We have learnt that the proprietors have re- 
 solved to reduce the toll to a halfpenny, instead of 
 a penny, which is paid at present. 
 
 SouTHWARK Bridge has also a toll, and be- 
 longs to a private company ; it consists of three 
 very large arches of cast iron; the span of the 
 centre arch is two hundred and forty feet, and of 
 the side ones two hundred and ten feet; the 
 lower part is of masonry. This bridge also, we 
 hear, does not repay the proprietors for the 
 capital advanced. During the years 1839 and 
 1840 there have been public meetings in London 
 
 D 5 
 
58 
 
 to petition parliament to vote a sum of money to 
 give to the proprietors of these bridges^ and to 
 throw them open to the pubhc free of toU^ or 
 faiUng in that, to raise by subscription, or by a 
 local tax upon some article, a sufficient sum for 
 the purpose. It would be a great convenience if 
 these bridges were free of toll ; for London and 
 Blackfriars bridge are, at certain times of the day, 
 almost blocked up with carts, omnibuses, and 
 other carriages, a great many of which would go 
 over Southwark and Waterloo bridges, but for 
 the payment of toll. 
 
 Vauxhall Bridge was the first iron bridge 
 erected over the Thames; it cost upwards of 
 £300,000. We have thus described at length 
 all the history of the bridges, as we were very 
 much struck with their beauty and their magnifi- 
 cence. On a very dark night, to stand upon 
 Southwark or Waterloo bridge, and to look on 
 both sides at the beautifully lighted up bridges, 
 is a grand sight. And upon a fine summer^s 
 morning, to stand upon the centre of either of 
 them to behold the glorious sun rise, and to see 
 the gilding of the top of St. PauFs, and of the 
 numerous high buildings that are visible from 
 hence, is a sight that has been witnessed by few 
 perhaps of the inhabitants of London, except 
 those whose occupations require them to be up at 
 that early hour. But we would advise those who 
 wish to see London to advantage, to rise at four 
 
59 
 
 o^clock some summer^s morning, and they will 
 see a beautiful view^ there being then scarcely 
 any smoke ; and the great luminary of light will 
 beam upon and illuminate every thing, and it will 
 kindle in the human heart feelings of thanksgiving 
 and praise to the great author of the universe. 
 We could not refrain from asking ourselves where 
 all the money could come from to build these 
 bridges, and we were wondering what number of 
 people London, and indeed, if it could be ascer- 
 tained, all England, consisted of, to raise these 
 immense sums. We therefore asked of a friend, 
 if he could guess the number of living beings in 
 England. He told us, that from 1801 parliament 
 had directed every ten years an account of the 
 population to be taken in every parish in England, 
 Scotland, and Wales, by competent persons, and 
 that they made a return of the same, which par- 
 liament printed, with their ages, and whether 
 males or females, also the number of houses ; 
 and we find that the following are the numbers 
 given for England and Wales in the years 
 
 1730, 
 5,796,000 
 
 1760, 
 6,736,000 
 
 1790, 
 8,675,000 
 
 1821, 
 11,978,075 
 
 1740, 
 6,064,000 
 
 1770, 
 7,428,000 
 
 1801, 
 8,872,980 
 
 1831, 
 13,894,574. 
 
 1750, 
 6,167,000 
 
 1780, 
 7,953,000 
 
 1811, 
 10,163,676 
 
60 
 
 No actual dependence is to be placed on any 
 except the last four; viz.^, 1801, 1811, 1821, 
 1831, as previous to this, there was no accurate 
 mode of taking the census, as it is called. 
 
 The following table shews the population of the 
 principal towns of England. 
 
 
 1801 
 
 1811 
 
 1821 
 
 1831 
 
 
 864,845 
 
 1,009,546 
 
 1,255,694 
 
 1,474,069 
 
 Manchester, Salford and Suburbs 
 
 94,876 
 
 115,874 
 
 161,635 
 
 237,832 
 
 
 79,722 
 
 100,240 
 
 131,801 
 
 189,244 
 
 Birmingham and Suburbs . 
 
 73,670 
 
 85,753 
 
 106,721 
 
 142,251 
 
 Bristol and Suburbs .... 
 
 63,645 
 
 76,433 
 
 87,779 
 
 103,886 
 
 
 53,162 
 
 62,534 
 
 83,796 
 
 123,393 
 
 Plymouth, Devonport, and Stonehouse 
 
 43,194 
 
 56,060 
 
 61,212 
 
 75,534 
 
 Portsmouth, withPortsea andGosport 
 
 43,461 
 
 52,769 
 
 56,620 
 
 63,026 
 
 
 36,832 
 
 37,256 
 
 50,288 
 
 61,116 
 
 Newcastle on Tyne, with Gateshead . 
 
 36,963 
 
 36,369 
 
 46,948 
 
 59,937 
 
 When we see this immense population up to 
 1831, and which will be much greater when the 
 population for this year (1841) is taken, we could 
 not wonder at seeing bridges, churches, hospitals^ 
 or any thing else built, as a few shillings from 
 every one would raise a sum of money of large 
 amount. 
 
 The following number of acres of ground is the 
 probable quantity in England and Wales, as stated 
 in the third report of the Emigration Committee 
 laid before the parliament. 
 
61 
 
 
 Cultivated 
 Acres. 
 
 Uncultivated, 
 but capable of 
 Cultivation. 
 
 Unprofit- 
 able. 
 
 Total. 
 
 England . 
 
 25,632,000 
 
 3,454,000 
 
 3,256,400 
 
 32,342,400 
 
 Wales 
 
 3,117,000 
 
 530,000 
 
 1,005,000 
 
 4,752,000 
 
 Total . . 37,094,400 
 
 So that if it were requisite to lay a direct tax 
 immediately to raise a large sum of money upon 
 any sudden occasion, it might be readily done in 
 two ways^ either by calling upon every living 
 human being in England to pay one or two 
 shillings per year each, or to let the owner of 
 land pay a shilling or two for every acre per year ; 
 at the first appearance it would seem a hardship 
 to tax the owners of the land but it would not in 
 fact be a tax upon them but upon all the people 
 who consume the produce of the land. For if a 
 man now is about to hire a farm of land^he calcu- 
 lates so much for rent, so much for poor rate, so 
 much for church rate, and then sells all his corn, 
 or bullocks or sheep at prices to bring him his 
 outlay back, with profit to live upon. And as it 
 is necessary to raise a great deal of money in 
 England for taxes, and for revenue in a duty paid 
 upon timber, cotton, and every thing that comes 
 into England, which is expensive in the collec- 
 tion, we think as much as could be laid upon land 
 should be, as it is easy to collect, the produce 
 would be certain, and but little expence to receive 
 
62 
 
 ity and as wheat and other corn is not allowed to 
 come into England from abroad without paying a 
 very high duty to protect , as it is said^ the English 
 Landowner from the competition of the Land- 
 owners of Poland^ Prussia^ and America^ it is no 
 more than right that the Landowner should bear 
 a great proportion of taxation ; yet we see that 
 upon looking at tables, that wheat has varied 
 very much in price notwithstanding they have a 
 fluctuating duty, in 1792 a quarter of eight 
 bushels of wheat sold for 435., in 1800 for 113^., 
 in 1801 for 118^., in 1803 for 56^., in 1810 for 
 106^., in 1812 for 125^., in 1822 for 43^., in 1827 
 for 56^., in 1840 for 80^., and this variation in the 
 price of wheat, has no doubt been produced by 
 the fluctuating duty to be paid for all wheat im- 
 ported into England, which is as follows ; 
 
 Whenever wheat is 62s, per quarter 
 of eight bushels and under 63^. in 
 the markets as declared by an average 
 of the prices of all sold at all the 
 markets in England 
 Whenever 63^. and under 64^. per qr. 
 
 The duty to 
 be paid for 
 every quarter 
 ■ shall be 
 
 £. s. d. 
 
 14 8 
 
 64^. 
 65s. 
 66s. 
 67s. 
 6Ss. 
 69s. 
 70s. 
 
 65s. 
 66s. 
 67s, 
 68s. 
 69s. 
 70s. 
 71s. 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 1 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 8 
 8 
 8 
 
 18 8 
 16 8 
 13 8 
 10 8 
 
63 
 
 7ls. „ 72s. 6 8 
 
 72s. „ 73^. 2 8 
 
 And whenever above 73s. per quarter 1 0 
 
 Now as by this mode of paying duty great 
 inducements were held out to persons to speculate 
 largely^ and by selling from one to another on each 
 market day large quantities of wheat at a nominal 
 high py^ice^ to be purchased back again on the 
 next market day^ at a much higher nominal price ^ 
 the loheat in fact never being really sold at all, 
 the average prices which govern the duty are got 
 up to above 7^s. per quarter^ and then hundreds 
 of thousands of quarters of foreign wheat are 
 liberated from bond at only one shilling per quarter 
 duty- The revenue of the country is not ma- 
 terially benefited^ and the growers of corn are 
 seriously injured, as the holders of foreign corn^ 
 their speculation having been carried out, sell 
 their corn which is very fine, and prevent the 
 English grower from selling his, until prices have 
 fallen by so much corn being in the market. 
 
 If therefore it is necessary to protect the 
 English wheat grower by any duty, it should be 
 a permanent fixed duty of a few shillings per 
 quarter ; and then it will not be worth while for 
 the rich capitalists to speculate in buying up corn, 
 and the prices would be more equal at all times. 
 
64 
 
 CHAPTER VL 
 
 WAX WORK MADAME TUSSAUD. 
 
 Soon after our arrival in England we went to pay 
 a visit to an exhibition of Wax-work Figures, 
 in what was formerly a great horse and carriage 
 bazaar in Baker Street, Portman Square, where 
 there are a great many figures as large as life, 
 dressed exactly in the costume that they are, or were, 
 in the daily habit of wearing, and in all respects so 
 exactly resembling living men, that when the room 
 is crowded with visitors it is very difficult, at a 
 very small distance, to distinguish the living real 
 man from his waxen representative. Queen Vic- 
 toria had been crowned as queen of England on 
 the 28th of June, 1838, and in the centre of the 
 room there was an exact representation of the 
 group that actually surrounded her Majesty at 
 the time. We have, since that time, had the 
 honor and pleasure of seeing her Majesty, and 
 we can bear testimony to the very strong likeness. 
 A very venerable and good-looking old man, the 
 Archbishop of Canterbury, who is the head of 
 the English Church, is just about to place the 
 
65 
 
 crown upon the head of the Queen. We are 
 told his grace is a most correct hkeness ; and if 
 we are any judges of human countenances he is 
 and must be a very good man. He looks so 
 placid^ so humble^ that if he is not one of the 
 greatest of hypocrites^ he is a man who^ by ex- 
 ample as well as precept^ would teach people to 
 live properly that they may die happily, and after 
 death go to that place where good men, whether 
 Parsees, Christians, Hindoos or Mahometans, 
 will all be in a state of happiness superior to any- 
 thing which we can have upon earth. Surround- 
 ing the Queen are — her good mother the Duchess 
 of Kent ; and if ever any individual ought to feel 
 proud of a mother, Queen Victoria has reason to 
 love, venerate and respect her mother. Although 
 there did not appear much chance of her ever 
 being sovereign, her prudent mother would not 
 allow her to be made the stalking horse of any 
 faction. She kept her aloof from every inter- 
 ference with public affairs, gave her a sound good 
 practical education, directed her attention to a 
 proper course of reading, and through her care 
 and her sound discretion she was enabled, at 
 eighteen years of age, to assume the sovereignty 
 of England with a well informed and vigorous 
 mind, and bids fair to prove the most popular 
 individual that ever sat upon the British throne. 
 How much, then, do the subjects of Queen Vic- 
 toria owe to the Duchess of Kent for her wisdom 
 
66 
 
 in thus rearing, thus fitting her daughter to 
 assume with dignity, with discretion, and, better 
 than all, with good sound common sense, the 
 attributes and duties of a queen. Bearing the 
 sword of state, near her Majesty^s right hand, 
 was her prime minister. Lord Melbourne; 
 an exact representation of a good humoured- 
 looking, kind English gentleman, possessing, 
 perhaps, a countenance more representing 
 frankness and candour than dignity. In the 
 group is the Duke of Devonshire, one of the 
 richest and most benevolent of the Enghsh nobi- 
 lity. The Queen's uncle, the Duke of Sussex, 
 is also near her. He is very popular, mixing 
 much in society, and presiding over meetings cal- 
 culated to diffuse happiness and to encourage 
 science. He was for many years President of 
 the Royal Society, and is always happy when Tie 
 can promote benevolent objects. The Duke of 
 Wellington is also there; there is no mistaking 
 his likeness; it is the very man himself. Yes, 
 there stands — the hero — the general — the com- 
 mander, who, with his master mind and high 
 courage, marched triumphantly even to the very 
 capital of his renowned enemy, Napoleon Buona- 
 parte ; and who, in the quiet times of peace, has 
 immortalized himself by removing from the 
 people of Ireland that mark of degradation, which 
 had previously been imprinted upon every man 
 who chose to worship his God as a Roman Ca- 
 
67 
 
 tholic. To the Duke of Wellington belongs the 
 high honor of having removed all those foul 
 stains ; and a Catholic now is eligible to sit in 
 parliament^ to hold offices of trusty and^ in nearly 
 every position^ to possess the rights and privileges 
 of his Protestant brethren. 
 
 In another group we were shewn Alexander, 
 the Emperor of Russia; Frederick William the 
 Third, King of Prussia; that extraordinary man 
 and great general, Napoleon, late Emperor of 
 France; Bernadotte, King of Sweden; Lord 
 Nelson, the brave British admiral, who was killed 
 at the battle of Trafalgar; Blucher and PlatofF, 
 Prussian and Russian generals ; Marshal Ney, the 
 celebrated French general, who was shot for his 
 devotion to his unfortunate master. Napoleon 
 and several others of great note. 
 
 At the upper end of the room we saw George 
 the Fourth, his queen, Caroline, and she who was 
 once the nation^s hope, the Princess Charlotte of 
 Wales, daughter of George the Fourth and 
 Queen Caroline ; she married Prince Leopold of 
 Saxe Coburg, uncle to the present Queen and 
 brother of the Duchess of Kent, and now King 
 of the Belgians. She unfortunately died in 
 giving birtli to a child, who also died at the same 
 time. William the Fourth and his queen, Ade- 
 laide, are also there. He looks the very picture 
 of good nature, and in after time he will fill an 
 important niche in British history from having 
 
68 
 
 passed the Reform Bill. Previous to his being 
 King he was for some time Lord High Admiral 
 of England, or, in other words, he filled the 
 highest office at the head of the naval administra- 
 tion of affairs, commonly called the Admiralty. 
 He was brought up a sailor, having at an early 
 age gone to sea as a midshipman and as a lieute- 
 nant. He had a large family prior to his marriage^ 
 having lived for many years with Mrs. Jordan, a 
 first-rate actress, who performed on the London 
 stage several years, whilst living under his roof. 
 Standing close by each other were Lord John Rus- 
 sell and Sir Robert Peel; admirable likenesses of 
 the two great men, who are the leaders in the House 
 of Commons of the political parties called Whigs 
 and Tories. We also saw a first-rate likeness of 
 Mr. Daniel O^Connell, a member of parliament, 
 and the man who has attracted much attention 
 by the conspicuous part which he always takes in 
 any matters connected with Ireland, which he 
 constantly describes as being harshly dealt with. 
 He is paid very largely for his exertions by an 
 Irish contribution called " Rent^'' to remunerate 
 him for having given up his practice as a barrister. 
 Lord Brougham is also here. He is the man, 
 who, as plain Henry Brougham, member of par- 
 liament, was always the advocate for the diffusion 
 of useful knowledge, and who has immortalized 
 himself, if he had never done anything else, by 
 writing the introductory pamphlet to the Library 
 
69 
 
 of Useful Knowledge. It is called the Objects^ Ad- 
 vantages^ and Pleasures of Science it shows how 
 gigantic is his mind, and the general knowledge 
 that he possesses. He was the Queen^s (Caro- 
 line) counsel when she was tried in the House of 
 Peers^ and in conducting her defence made use of 
 such strong remarks upon the conduct of her 
 husband^ George the Fourth^ then the reigning 
 sovereign, that the King never forgave him ; not- 
 withstanding which his talents and popularity 
 were such^ that in the next reign he became the 
 Lord Chancellor, the highest dignity that any 
 individual can arrive at, being the keeper of the 
 King's conscience^ and the head of the law. 
 Since he has been a peer he has not been so 
 popular as when he was plain Mr. Brougham. 
 He has not held any office for a number of years, 
 and by his friends it has been a source of regret 
 that he ever was made Lord Chancellor. 
 
 Wilberforce is there; who has not heard of 
 Wilberforce ? he was the champion of the poor 
 slave. He it was who for a series of years de- 
 nounced the slave trade, and told of the horrors 
 of West Indian slavery; and who, by his assi- 
 duity and dauntless zeal, first annihilated the 
 slave trade, and at length knocked off the fetters 
 of the wretched slave. There are two wretched- 
 looking men, named Hare and Burke, whose vil- 
 lainous looks cause you to shudder. They gained 
 a livelihood for a long period by decoying persons 
 
70 
 
 to their residence, giving them opium in their 
 drink and then smothering them, to sell their 
 bodies to surgeons for dissection ; they were ap- 
 prehended, and were put out of this world by 
 hanging. Close by the entrance is a likeness of 
 that extraordinary individual, Fieschi, with the 
 machine with which he attempted to destroy 
 Louis Philippe, the present King of the French. 
 The machine consists of a number of barrels, 
 twenty perhaps, all of which he loaded with gun- 
 powder and bullets, and fired as the King was 
 just passing his residence ; an accidental stoppage 
 of the procession saved the life of the King ; 
 several of the nobility and soldiers who were 
 accompanying him, and who were close to his 
 person at the time were severely wounded. 
 
 There was, opposite to him, a very laughable 
 representation of a very favorite actor of comical 
 characters, Mr. Liston, in a character called Paul 
 Pry, which amused us much. We should have 
 mentioned that Fieschi, who is represented as 
 standing up and looking at the machine, is so 
 constructed as to gradually keep his head in 
 motion, as if he were very minutely examining 
 the barrels ; and so much is he like a living man, 
 that several persons have enquired of him the 
 nature and intent of that which seems so much 
 to occupy his attention. Seated on one of the 
 long forms placed for the accommodation of the 
 visitors, is a wax representation of that extraor- 
 
71 
 
 dinary man, William Cobbett, a great political 
 writer. He, Cobbett, is one of the numerous 
 instances of which we have heard, of men from the 
 humblest rank in society rising by talent alone 
 and unaided, to wealth and distinction. Cobbett 
 was the son of poor parents, and had but a very 
 indifferent education, and was induced by poverty 
 to enlist as a common soldier. He, however, 
 took great pains with his education, and became 
 the writer and printer of a weekly political period- 
 ical (the Register), which was constantly attacking 
 the acts of government. He published an Eng- 
 lish and French grammar^ said to be the best of 
 its kind, wrote a history of England, and many 
 other volumes of books, and at last became a 
 member of parliament. To prove how very 
 closely he is in appearance to an animated being, 
 a gentleman with whom we became very intimate 
 told us that he went with a friend to see the 
 exhibition, and being himself at first deceived, 
 thinking Cobbett was alive, he sat himself down 
 alongside of the figure (which also keeps his 
 head constantly moving, as if looking at the 
 group of foreign princes in front). He, of 
 course, preserved his gravity, and kept his features 
 quite still. He wore spectacles, and endeavoured 
 to imitate the motions of the figure. He had not 
 sat long before a gentleman and lady took their 
 seat by Cobbett^s figure, and the gentleman asked 
 of it, who the persons were in the inclosure in 
 
72 
 
 front ; upon receiving no answer he whispered to 
 his companion^ It is not a man^ it is a figure f 
 she said, " Oh, yes, I knew that, and so is the 
 next to him immediately upon which, to test 
 her judgment, the gentleman asked a question of 
 our friend, and upon not receiving an answer, 
 went to some of the spectators, and asked who 
 those two figures were. This drew the attention of 
 several of the spectators to them, and after they 
 had looked for a few minutes, our friend put his 
 hand suddenly in his pocket, took out his cata- 
 logue, got up and walked away as if he was inno- 
 cent of the deception, and a loud and unusual 
 burst of laughter was produced. The best time 
 to see the exhibition is when it is lighted up in 
 the evening, as the countenances look more na- 
 tural then. The music which is played here is 
 very pleasing, and generally there is a very great 
 concourse of people. The dresses are very good. 
 
 We paid a second visit, after the marriage of the 
 Queen, and we then saw a group of figures, repre- 
 senting those who were present on the 10th of 
 February, 1840, when her Majesty was married 
 to her cousin. Prince Albert of Saxe Cobourg 
 and Gotha. He would not be twenty-one years 
 of age until the 26th of August in that year, and 
 she would be twenty-one on the 24th of May in 
 that year. His Royal Highness' likeness is very 
 good ; they are both looking very happy ; he has 
 every appearance of being a good kind-hearted 
 
73 
 
 man. He has a very small moustache, which is 
 very becoming to him. Queen Adelaide is in 
 the group, and Prince Albert's father and brother. 
 The Queen^s favorite uncle, the Duke of Sussex, 
 is also there, in capacity of father, to give her 
 away ; there are several beautiful women of her 
 household about her person, but the Queen and 
 Prince Albert of course engage the attention of 
 spectators. There is scarcely any body who has 
 attracted the attention of the public, but what is 
 to be found here. It may, perhaps, amuse some 
 of our own countrywomen to know how the 
 Queen was dressed : she wore on her head a 
 wreath of orange blossoms and a lace veil, with 
 diamond ear-rings and necklace. Her gown was 
 of white satin, with a great deal of beautiful lace, 
 and with orange blossoms all over the body and 
 train. The cost of the lace alone was £1000; 
 the satin was made in London in Spitalfields, 
 where a great number of silk weavers live. As 
 the Queen could not wear, so as to exhibit it, the 
 order of the Garter, where it is usually worn by 
 males, she wore it upon her arm, with its motto 
 of " Evil be to him who evil thinks and she 
 also wore the star of the order. 
 
 We saw at this exhibition William Pitt and 
 Charles James Fox, whose names are familiar to 
 every one who knows anything about the political 
 history of England ; they having, for very many 
 years, been the leaders of the parties known as 
 
 E 
 
74 
 
 Whigs and Tories. There is a group which seems 
 most attractive to young people^ which is Louis 
 the Sixteenth of France^ Marie Antoinette^ his 
 queen^ and their young son^ commonly called the 
 Dauphin^ or next heir to the throne. The King 
 and Queen, it is well known, were beheaded by 
 their subjects in the Revolution at the end of the 
 last century. There is also a representation of a 
 very beautiful woman, w^ho is lying at full length 
 on a bench, and who is represented as being 
 sleeping, and who, from her chest heaving, 
 and the apparent actions of a person whilst slum- 
 bering, is often taken for reality. 
 
 There is also Voltaire, the French political 
 writer, and a man who thought very differently 
 from many of his neighbours with regard to 
 religion, and who was called an Atheist, because 
 he promulgated opinions which w^ere opposed to 
 the Catholic Religion. In India we have heard 
 much of him, and we are informed he worshipped 
 one God, and his revilers three, or what they call 
 Trinity, and that they should have named him 
 Deist instead of Atheist. He is an extraordinary 
 looking man, dressed so oddly too, with little 
 pinched-up features, and his hair so curiously 
 arranged. We looked much at him, thinking he 
 must have had much courage, and have thought 
 himself quite right in his belief to have stood 
 opposed to all the existing religious systems of 
 his native land. He, however, and those who 
 
75 
 
 th ought differently from him^ have long since, in 
 another worlds experienced that if men onhj act 
 up to what they believe to be right, that the Maker 
 of the Deist^ the Christian, and the Parsee, will 
 receive them into his presence ; and that it is the 
 professor of religion, who is nothing but a pro* 
 fessor, let his creed be what it may, that will meet 
 with the greatest punishment from Him who 
 ruleth all things. 
 
 We have said much about Madame Tussaud's 
 Wax-work, because we were very much pleased; 
 and we know of no exhibition (where a person 
 has read about people) that will afford him so 
 much pleasure, always recollecting that it is only 
 one shilling, and for this you may stop just as long 
 as you feel an inclination. We saw a wax-work 
 figure of Madame Tussaud herself in the exhibi- 
 tion, and when we saw her alive upon leaving the 
 room, we could scarce discover the real from the 
 imitation. 
 
76 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 RAILROADS. EGHAM. WINDSOR. 
 
 We were apprehensive upon our voyage that we 
 should have had some difficulties in retaining our 
 customs^ which our religion as Parsees call upon us 
 to do. 
 
 We are accustomed to have our food cooked by 
 one of our own caste, and we require private 
 apartments to perform our devotional duties, and 
 we thought we should have met with some trouble 
 to carry on these things, but in the Portland 
 Hotel, and every other inn and lodging house, 
 where we subsequently lodged, we found every 
 convenience, every comfort, and we and our 
 servants w^ere allowed unmolested to do every 
 thing we required. 
 
 Neither did we in the course of our residence in 
 England among our numerous acquaintances, find 
 one who condemned our religion or ridiculed its 
 ceremonies ; on the contrary, many of them who 
 knew that we could not partake of their hospi- 
 
77 
 
 tality for reasons above alluded to, took great 
 pleasure in entertaining us in every way conforma- 
 bly to our manners and feelings. 
 
 We came to England by the Buckingham- 
 shire" Captain Hopkins, we were now desirous to 
 procure a thorough knowledge of the English and 
 mathematics, and were anxious to place ourselves 
 under a tutor who would instruct us, and a brother 
 of Captain Hopkins, a clergyman, who preached 
 at a small village called Wraysbury, in the county 
 of Buckinghamshire, and who lived at Egham, 
 undertaking to instruct us, we went by the railroad 
 to see him, and to look at a house which it was 
 thought would suit us. And if we had been 
 astonished at the several description of carriages 
 that we had seen^ how shall we describe our very 
 great astonishment at what we saw" on the railroad ? 
 It was called the Great Western, and it leaves 
 London at Paddington, opening a way to the 
 western coast of England, and is intended to run 
 to Bath, Bristol, Gloucester and Cheltenham. 
 
 We travelled to a place called Slough, twenty- 
 five miles, in fifty minutes. Only think, within 
 an hour, seated quietly in a beautiful carriage, w^e 
 were twenty-five miles from London ! We did 
 not feel that we were passing so rapidly through 
 the country when we looked at distant objects, but 
 when we looked upon anything near to us, we but 
 saw it and it vanished, and when the other train 
 of carriages passed us, it was almost as if a flash 
 
78 
 
 of lightning had gone by, we could not dis- 
 tinguish any one of the carriages. But what is 
 the train ? And how is it moved ? We will 
 endeavour to explain all this ; — we have read. 
 
 When railroads were in their infancy, it was 
 a puzzle how to contrive means, not to make the 
 wheels of the carriage turn round but to make 
 them move onwards ; for it was imagined that the 
 smoothness of the rails, would permit the wheels 
 " to slip, and that thus though they would revolve, 
 they would not go on. Many ingenious con- 
 trivances were made to overcome this imaginary 
 difficulty, amongst others a most ingenious pair 
 " of metal legs were to push the carriage onwards. 
 
 But at last it was found out that rails and 
 " wheels were not so smooth faced to one 
 another, and there was friction enough between 
 " them to let the carriages run. Then came the 
 question of how are the carriages to be moved ? 
 " Shall we pull them by horses ? Or build 
 stationary engine houses and haul away with 
 ropes ? Or drag by locomotives ? The decision 
 on the Manchester and Liverpool Railway, the 
 earliest of the great railroads, was in favor of 
 locomotives, and so locomotives have become 
 the prime moving power on railroads.^^ 
 Locomotive engines are so named, because they 
 possess the power of moving from place to place. 
 They consist of a strong iron frame supported on 
 four wheels, and a cylindrical boiler made of 
 
79 
 
 wrought iron plates, which is fixed to this car- 
 riage ; the chimney is in the front and the furnace 
 at the hinder end; the smoke and hot air pass 
 through a number of brass tubes which traverse 
 the lower half of the boiler^ on their way to the 
 chimney, and which at the same time com- 
 municate additional heat to the boiler, to generate 
 steam ; the cylinder in these engines is placed 
 almost in every variety of position, as vertical, 
 horizontal, and inclined. The engineer stands on 
 the hinder part of the carriage and by a long rod 
 moves the throttle valve for admitting the steam 
 into the cylinder, which regulates the motion and 
 consequently the speed of the carriage, to prevent 
 ignited fuel escaping into the air and doing mis- 
 chief, a wire netting is placed on the top of the 
 chimney. A carriage called the tender with coke 
 or welsh coal, and water, is following the engine 
 or the steam carriage ; this supplies the furnace 
 and boiler with their necessary food ; this engine 
 will take twenty carriages, loaded with passengers 
 with their luggage, at the rate of thirty miles an 
 hour, if required, and with only common caution 
 there is little fear of accident. The carriages for 
 passengers are of two kinds, those for the first 
 class are fitted up beautifully with cushions and 
 glass windows, they hold three persons on each 
 side, and the seats are detached from each other, 
 and on some railroads they have a lamp inside for 
 night travelling. The second class carriages are 
 
80 
 
 fitted with benches and are only covered at the 
 top. The place from where the train started, is 
 covered with a magnificent and commodious roof 
 with suitable apartments for passengers. The 
 iron rails on this line are placed at the distance of 
 seven feet apart (while the distance in other lines 
 is four feet eight inches) and are laid lengthways 
 on continuous bearings of wood^ which we are told 
 is a deviation from other railroads, and for which 
 innovation Mr. Brunei, the chief engineer met 
 with a great deal of opposition. 
 
 In going from Paddington to Slough, we saw 
 more than fifty bridges, either over or under the 
 line ; the distance between London and Bristol is 
 one hundred and twenty miles, and this gigantic 
 work will cost about 50,000,000 of rupees when 
 completed ; the train carries more than six hun- 
 dred passengers daily, but the number since has 
 increased to three thousand, and the w^eekly 
 receipt at present amounts to £2000 sterling. 
 
 In a commercial point of view, this railway will 
 bring Ireland and London nearer each other, in- 
 dependent of the facility it will afford in conveying 
 colonial produce from Bristol to the metropolis. 
 A writer in speaking of railroads, thus describes 
 them in the London Saturday Journal : — " You 
 " bid your friend good night and fancy that 
 like yourself he will go to supper, and to bed, 
 " and that next day he will revisit his accustomed 
 haunts, with beard neatly trimmed, and a clean 
 
81 
 
 sweet neckcloth round his neck^ but he^ after 
 coolly giving you the countersign for the nighty 
 " walks to Euston Square, throws himself into a 
 " carriage, and in the morning has tea and a kidney 
 " at Liverpool ; and while you have been slumber- 
 ^^ing on that faithful bed, which has nightly 
 received your precious body for half a century, 
 " he has been sweeping through hills, under 
 bridges, over rivers, along valleys, in fact, quietly 
 going through adventures which exceed the 
 wildest of your dreams, now ploughing his way 
 in the darkness of a tunnel — now rushing be- 
 tween walls of chalk, while high above aerial 
 bridges look like the perches of fairy land — now 
 rattling along a viaduct, while the placid stream 
 below still wanders at its own sweet will — now 
 " toiling onwards in a delightful valley, startling 
 the cattle asleep in the field, and almost scaring 
 away the quiet church of the hamlet ; the day 
 after your friend, who has been floated some five 
 or eight hundred, or even a thousand miles of 
 " hill and dale, takes his seat at his desk with a 
 provoking equanimity which would not have 
 been tolerated a few years ago if one had only 
 taken a half holiday and gone to Hornsey Wood 
 House ; time was indeed, when the public were 
 " used more frequently to walk, and Islington or 
 Primrose Hill constituted an excursion worth 
 talking about ; time was when coaches had no 
 springs, and roads were full of ruts, and my Lord 
 E 2 
 
82 
 
 Mayor's lumbering machine was the pink of 
 elegance and grandeur ; time was when fair 
 ladies were carried in sedan chairs and could 
 
 ^' modestly draw the curtains^ lest the torches of the 
 link boys should glare too rudely on their beauty ; 
 time was when the mail hobbled on a sorry nag^ 
 
 " and a miserable post boy was at once carrier and 
 guardian ; time was when hackney coaches were 
 few^ and the Thames watermen flourished^ and 
 cabriolets were unknown^ and omnibuses were 
 
 " not. Aye_, and time was^ and that but yesterday, 
 when our level roads, our picturesque mail 
 coaches, and our country inns were thought the 
 
 " summit of perfection, and made us the envy of 
 surrounding nations, and the admiration of the 
 world, but all that is passed or passing, for the 
 inspiring blast of the guard^s horn we have the 
 shrill whistle of the locomotive ; for change of 
 horses, we have merely a supply of coke and 
 water, and for John^^ the ostler, and Mary^^ 
 the chambermaid, and William^' the waiter, 
 
 ^' with cold beef, bread and cheese, and glasses of 
 ale ; we have policemen and porters all as like 
 
 ^' one another as peas, while the stomach has to 
 be stayed by a hasty stare at a station house, 
 
 " above all, one sadly misses the driver, at once so 
 conceited and so cool, now praising his team, or 
 
 ^' quizzing a passenger — now touching his hat for 
 
 " the expected half crown, and sneering when it 
 proves only a shilling. As for the scarlet 
 
83 
 
 " coated mail guards he was always too important 
 " to get very familiar with^ the man felt that he 
 had a post office time piece in his pockety and 
 was serving his king at the rate of ten miles an 
 ^* horn*. Ten years ago^ railroads as a means of 
 general transit for passengers and goods were 
 " almost untried^ now they are spreading over the 
 country like a net work ; about one hundred and 
 fifty railroads are already in use in Great Britain 
 and Ireland, and upwards of sixty millions of 
 money are invested in them ; they are upsetting 
 all our former notion s, and altering our social 
 condition — they are pouring the country into 
 " London, and spreading London over the coun- 
 " try ; Northward, we are carried as far as 
 Lancaster, a distance of two hundred and forty- 
 one miles from London, in eleven or twelve 
 " hours by the London and Birmingham, the 
 Grand Junction, and the continuation to Pres- 
 ton and Lancaster ; where though for the pre- 
 sent it stops, there will probably be a con- 
 tinuation to Penrith, to Carlisle, and Glasgow ; 
 the same lines, the London and Birmingham, 
 and the Grand Junction, link with Liverpool 
 and Manchester, at Rugby, eighty-three miles 
 ^' from London, on the London and Birmingham 
 " railway. The Midland Counties Railway carries 
 " us to Nottingham and Derby, and at Derby, we 
 " can get by the North Midland and its Junctions, 
 to Chesterfield, Sheffield, Leeds and York, or 
 
84 
 
 ^' instead of going on to York, we may double like 
 " a hunted hare, turn olF to Hull by Selby, or 
 " from Selby to Leeds. At York, the Great 
 North of England Railway now in progress, will 
 " carry us on to Durham and Newcastle, and at 
 Newcastle we can cross the Island to Carlisle. 
 " Returning to London, we find the Great 
 " Western Railway opening to us the western 
 coast, and by it and its junctions, not only 
 enabling London citizens to spend a day com- 
 " fortably at Windsor, but joining Bristol and 
 Bath, Gloucester and Cheltenham, either now 
 or shortly. The south coast again is almost free 
 " to us by the Southampton and the Brighton 
 railways, along with the Greenwich and its 
 adjuncts, to Croydon and Dover, all either 
 made or making. Again, the north east coast is 
 " accessible by the Eastern Counties railway, to 
 " Ipswich or Norwich, and all who wish to avoid 
 the intricacies of the London portion of the 
 Thames, called the pool, or who are in a hurry 
 to reach a dinner of white bait, can be whirled 
 " from the city to Blackwall by the Blackwall 
 railroad. 
 
 The locomotive steam engines are high 
 pressure engines, no vacuum is produced in the 
 Cylinder, and therefore the whole of the con- 
 densing apparatus, the cold water cistern, con- 
 " denser, air pump, cold water pump, &c. are 
 dispensed with, and nothing is retained except 
 
85 
 
 the boiler^ cylinder, piston and valves ; by this 
 ^' means, the locomotive is rendered light and 
 portable, but at the same time there is required 
 " the action of an intense heating power within a 
 small compass. The railroad from the City of 
 London to Blackwall, though a short one, is an 
 interesting one, from the admirable system 
 adopted, no locomotive engines are used, the 
 " trains being pulled by ropes, moved by sta- 
 tionary engines, at each end of the line. Though 
 the line is a short one, there are several inter- 
 mediate stations where passengers get out and 
 in, and when a train starts from London it pro- 
 ceeds in the following order, each station having 
 its own carriage and each carriage its driver. 
 The carriage for Blackwall goes first, then the one 
 " for Poplar, the one for the West India Docks, 
 Stepney, &c. the carriage for Stepney being the 
 nearest station to London goes last, and as the 
 train approaches the Stepney station, the driver 
 turns his carriage off, while the rest of the train 
 " goes on without stopping, thus carriage by car- 
 riage is turned off, the rest proceeding unchecked, 
 and the intermediate stations being all passed, the 
 Blackwall carriage arrives alone, and with as 
 " much rapidity as if it started singly, danger of 
 collision is thus rendered impossible, and a 
 " whole train of carriages is not placed at the 
 " discretion of a single man, as in the case with 
 " trains drawn by locomotives. There is also an 
 
86 
 
 electric telegraphy by which constant and almost 
 instantaneous communication is maintained be- 
 tween the termini^ and a casual question being 
 ^' asked in the London station house will have an 
 answer in a few seconds from Blackwall^ the 
 " length of the railroad being nearly four miles/' 
 
 It may not be amiss here to mention that upon 
 the great railroads^ the London and Lancaster for 
 instance^, there is a travelling post office in which 
 the bags of letters are received from the several 
 post towns and are sorted immediately by one or 
 more clerks and the several bags of letters sealed 
 up and delivered as they pass along : the post 
 office travelling upon the Birmingham railroad 
 cost £600. it is fifteen feet^ three inches long, 
 seven feet^ seven inches wide^ and is six feet ten 
 inches in height, the carriage is fitted internally 
 with nests of pigeon holes to receive the letters 
 as sorted, with drawers, desks and pegs and is 
 divided in the middle by a partition, and the 
 guard and mail bags that are to go through are in 
 the hindermost part, the clerks keep on sorting 
 and arranging the letters during the journey, and 
 the guards tie up and exchange the mail bags. A 
 Mr. J. Ramsay contrived the following ingenious 
 process, by which the bags of letters are received 
 and given out, without stopping the train or slack- 
 ening the speed, for this purpose attached to the 
 near side of the office is an iron frame with a 
 piece of net^ which is expanded as they approach 
 
87 
 
 a post office station to receive a bag from the arm 
 of a standard at the side of the road^ at the same 
 moment that a bag is delivered into the net, 
 another is let down from the office by the 
 machine; and thus an exchange of bags is in- 
 stantly effected. The speed of the mail trains on 
 the Birmingham railway, is as follows, from 
 London to Birmingham five hours, a stoppage 
 of eight minutes is allowed at Tring, ten minutes 
 at Wolverton, three minutes at Weedon and nine 
 minutes at Coventry ; making a total of twenty-five 
 minutes occupied by the stoppages, and only four 
 hours and thirty-five minutes in performing the 
 journey of one hundred and twelve miles and a 
 quarter ; according to the Parliamentary report 
 the price for conveying the mails on the London 
 and Birmingham railway, is settled by arbitration, 
 namely from the first of May, 1839, at £24. 4^. 
 and 4d, per day, or ^6 10,340. per year, for a day 
 mail up and down, and a night mail up and down, 
 for this the contractors provide the post office 
 carriages and convey each trip a guard and two 
 clerks ; the contract is for three years and the 
 weight carried nearly ten tons. 
 
 We have written a long article upon rail- 
 roads and we have only got as far as Slough 
 in our way down to Egham. We walked with 
 our friend Captain Hopkins to his residence 
 at Maidenhead, is was a neat small cottage, 
 ^ and which we should call a Bungalow, with the 
 
88 
 
 River Thames on one side and a beautiful 
 piece of garden on the other. The situation was 
 very lonely but pleasant^ the English are particu- 
 larly fond of such quiet and rural habitations, and 
 here they generally contrive to amuse themselves 
 by gardening, growing vegetables, and fruits for 
 their own use, and flowers to adorn and beautify 
 the place, and render it cheerful by their various 
 and beautiful colours ; many, even as gentlemen 
 living independently, dig the ground with their own 
 hands, and in fact go through all the duties of a 
 gardener merely to pass away their time. Having 
 taken some refreshments at our friend's house we 
 had a post chaise and went to Windsor ; the castle 
 has for very many centuries been the residence of 
 the Kings and Queens of England. It is in Berk- 
 shire, twenty-one miles west of London. Windsor 
 Forest is fifty-six miles in circumference, the 
 Great Park contains near four thousand acres 
 and the Little Park about five hundred acres of 
 ground. The castle is upon an eminence com- 
 manding a fine view of the Thames, and is sur- 
 rounded by a terrace extending nearly two thou- 
 sand yards, it has within the last twenty years had 
 immense sums expended upon its alterations, and 
 is now a palace which has no equal in the world 
 for magnificence and convenience. The long 
 walk in the Park is considered the most beautiful 
 thing of its sort in Europe, a perfectly straight 
 road runs from the principal entrance of the 
 
89 
 
 castle to the top of a commanding hill in the 
 Great Park^ called Snow Hill, a distance of more 
 than three miles ; upon each side of this walk or 
 road is a double row of fine old elm trees but 
 they are passed their prime and in a fev/ years 
 will decay and be blown down. 
 
 It will no doubt strike the mind of those whose 
 business it is to attend to this matter, at once to 
 plant others, that when in the course of nature 
 these trees have disappeared others will spring up 
 and take their places. It is very beautiful to look 
 along this immense straight road with its beauti- 
 ful fringe of vegetation ; and upon the hill, at 
 the end of the walk, the prospect is of vast 
 extent, and embraces a highly interesting district. 
 Windsor Castle is at the feet of the beholder; 
 on the left is beautiful forest scenery ; to the 
 right runs the Thames towards Richmond; on 
 whose surface you will see the light pleasure 
 boats gliding along with parties, who have quitted 
 London, and its smoke and noise, to have a little 
 pure air — to unbend the mind — to behold the 
 varied and beautiful scenery which is to be so 
 much admired all the way from London. And 
 oh, how diversified is that which meets the eye 
 from the summit of this hill ! We can, in the 
 different glimpses which we catch of the Thames, 
 see the small steam boats which are constructed 
 for passing through the numerous bridges, deco- 
 rated with their gaily floating flags with which they 
 
90 
 
 are dressed, and bearing hundreds of happy 
 beings to have a day's pleasure. Previous to 
 Gravesend becoming the place of resort which it 
 has done within the last few years, in consequence 
 of the cheap and excellent accommodation afforded 
 by the steam vessels, all these parts used to be 
 weekly inundated by' visitors; but now it is the 
 quieter resort of many happy groups, who, with 
 their provision in their boat and with a few chosen 
 friends and the Inembers of their families, thus 
 rationally contrive to have a day of recreation and 
 of happiness. 
 
 About the year 1831, a very large equestrian 
 statue of the King on horseback (George the 
 Third) has been erected on the highest part of 
 this hill ; it is at the end of the long road from 
 the Castle, and is to be clearly seen all the way ; 
 it is placed upon stone work like a huge rock, of 
 twenty-four feet high, and the horse and man are 
 twenty-six feet high, thus being fifty feet above 
 the road. We are told by those who knew George 
 the Third, that it is very much like him ; he is 
 not, however, dressed as an Englishman, and we, 
 as foreigners, should have taken him for some 
 Roman figure, similar to those in the British 
 Museum. We understand the sculptor, Mr. 
 Westmacott, thought it would make a better 
 figure than if in the uniform, cocked hat, and large 
 boots, which King George the Third wore. It 
 may look better, perhaps, to the eye; but the 
 
91 
 
 grand object, of handing down the name and 
 memory, the likeness, and the costume of the age 
 in which he hved, is thus quite lost. 
 
 We then proceeded to Egham, saw the house 
 selected for us by our tutor, which we ap- 
 proved of; and having arranged about what 
 we should require, we looked out at the quiet 
 little unobtrusive village, which was to be our 
 residence, until we should feel that we knew 
 enough of mathematics and English benefi- 
 cially to study the writers upon ship-building 
 and the displacement of bodies, so that we mightL 
 advantageously judge from theory, and combine 
 with practice, all that we should see, hear, and 
 read upon the noble science of constructing a 
 ship. Our arrival in this quiet spot with our 
 Eastern costume created quite a sensation; all 
 the people were gazing from their doors and 
 windows at us ; and, for a short period, we were 
 looked upon quite as curiosities. Our tutor, the 
 Reverend Mr. Hopkins, gave us always whilst we 
 were with him^ valuable assistance and advice; we 
 received much kindness from him, and we thus 
 express our entire satisfaction of the treatment 
 we always received, and the information we gained, 
 from him. Having settled ourselves down at 
 Egham on the 28th of September, 1838, where 
 we studied very regularly for a twelvemonth, it is 
 not our intention to treat of anything that we 
 saw in the order in which we viewed it, but we 
 shall endeavour to describe all and every thing 
 
92 
 
 that we have seen at different periods, when we 
 gave ourselves a httle recreation ; and our readers 
 must bear in mind that we did not go by chance 
 to see this thing or that, but whenever we read a 
 description of places worth seeing, or if any of 
 our friends hinted that it was proper for us to 
 visit certain places, we endeavoured so to do. 
 We cannot for one moment imagine that our 
 impressions, or description of what we saw and 
 felt, will either instruct or amuse English people ; 
 but we do think many of our own countrymen, 
 both Parsees and Hindoos, will be amused at 
 hearing of what we saw in England ; we may as 
 well state here that we have confined ourselves 
 strictly to truth ; and if we have put a wrong con- 
 struction upon anything that we have described, 
 it has been for want of knowing better. We 
 hope, in our little journal, any remarks we may 
 make, may not be of that nature to give pain to 
 any one. We have endeavoured to avoid all per- 
 sonal remarks ; and when we speak of any sect, 
 we mean our observations to apply generally, and 
 not to individuals. We have, in our long stay in 
 England, had much to make us attached to it. 
 We have received friendly kindness from many, 
 and have formed some friendships that on our 
 side will cease but with our lives; we have 
 received courtesy from a still greater number, and 
 we shall ever think of England with sentiments of 
 esteem and admiration. 
 
% 
 
 93 
 
 CHAPTER VIIL 
 
 BRITISH MUSEUM. 
 
 We paid a visit to the British Museum, in Monta- 
 gue House, Great Russell Street, near Russell 
 Square, it was opened to the public in 1759. It 
 appears that a celebrated physician. Sir Hans 
 Sloane, had collected an immense quantity of 
 books, manuscripts, and objects of curiosity, and 
 in his will after his death, it was directed, that all 
 these things should be offered to the British 
 government for £20,000 to form a public Museum. 
 This offer was acceded to^ and thus was com- 
 menced this grand collection of books, specimens 
 of minerals of all descriptions, of stuffed animals 
 and curiosities from all parts of the world. There 
 was soon added a large library, called the Cot- 
 tonian manuscripts collected by Sir Robert Cotton, 
 and then a library belonging to Major Edwards. 
 George the Second presented a library of books, 
 which the kings of England, from Henry the 
 Seventh, had collected; and King George the 
 Fourth, in 1823, gave all the books belonging to 
 
94 
 
 his late father George the Third, supposed to have 
 cost £200,000. There are also the Lansdowne, 
 and the Burney, and the Macintosh manuscripts, 
 and by the law of publishing, a copy of every new 
 book is obliged to be given ; so, that, as a library, 
 there never was in the world any place where so 
 much information was collected together. 
 
 And any person may obtain admission, either to 
 read or to copy out anything he may wish. 
 
 Any individual wishing to become a reader has 
 to apply in writing to the chief librarian, and 
 must have his application signed by some known 
 person. 
 
 If the person recommending the party is known, 
 immediate admission is granted, otherwise they 
 have to wait a few days until enquiries are made^ 
 and this is done to prevent disreputable persons 
 from getting in. When the person is admitted he 
 receives a ticket for six months, and at the end of 
 that time it must be renewed. General visitors to 
 the Museum are not admitted to the library or 
 reading rooms as they would merely see the out- 
 sides of an immense number of books, and would 
 only disturb those persons who come to study or 
 to copy out such matters as they may require. 
 
 In the Museum^ there is every thing that is 
 curious; there are several Mummies, specimens 
 of Hindoo sculpture^ Burmese Idols, several 
 Arabic inscriptions on columns, there are large 
 Egyptian statues brought home by Belzoni the 
 
95 
 
 traveller^ particularly Memnon's head. There are 
 Obelisks from Cairo^ covered with Hieroglyphic 
 characters. There are also fine specimens of 
 stuffed animals^ there are two Giraffes or Cameleo- 
 pards of immense size being eighteen feet high, 
 and a Musk Ox ; there are also a collection of 
 the Marble sculptures from Athens, brought home 
 by Lord Elgin and bought for £35,000, in 1816. 
 One of the most beautiful things is the beautiful 
 Portland or Barberini Vase, its height is ten, and 
 its diameter six inches, the material is a dark but 
 transparent blue substance, upon this the figures 
 are formed of a white substance ; it is difficult to say 
 how they are united ; it was discovered about the 
 middle of the sixteenth century enclosed in a 
 marble sarcophagus, supposed to have held the 
 remains of the Emperor Alexander Severus, near 
 Rome. The Duke of Portland bought it of Sir 
 William Hamilton. 
 
 On the first floor the room is surrounded with 
 glass cases, with curiosities from the South Sea 
 Islands, and the dresses of the Esquimaux who 
 live near the North Pole. Here are rude spears, 
 arrows, and harpoons ; in the centre of the room 
 are glass cases with magnificent shells, beautiful, 
 and arranged in nice order. 
 
 In another room collections of dried plants of 
 nearly all known sorts, and then a collection of 
 English fossils, and in another room, carefully 
 preserved in cabinets, are specimens of nearly all 
 
96 
 
 known sorts of insects ; then there is a large 
 collection of Seals^ Vases, and Hindoo Bonzes^ 
 then there are several rooms full of all sorts of 
 animals^ birds^ beasts, fishes^ stuffed so as to look 
 just as if they were alive, very large Bats, 
 Monkeys of all sorts ; there is a curious animal 
 called Ornithorhyncus paradoxus, which has the 
 bill of a Duck upon the hairy body of a four- 
 footed animal, it is half beast, half bird, from 
 New Holland ; where things are quite unlike any 
 other place, they have animals, half bird and 
 half beast, and they have timber half Fir and half 
 Beach, called Cowdie. 
 
 There are beautiful specimens of Goats, Deer, 
 Antelopes, immense Serpents called Boa Con- 
 strictors, Eagles and Hawks of all sorts and 
 sizes, and then all the British Birds, the Lark, 
 Bulfinch, Thrush, Goldfinch, Titmouse, and great 
 numbers of other Birds of England. It is 
 neither our wish or intention to offer a catalogue 
 description of any of the sights of London, we 
 only wish to inform our countrymen of what is to 
 be seen in this mighty city, and if we had seen 
 nothing else but the British Museum, we should 
 have said how happy is the country possessing 
 such an establishment ; for here poor as well as 
 rich are constantly admitted. Every thing is so 
 well described, there is no charge allowed to be 
 made for seeing it, and here are to be found books 
 treating upon every possible subject, shells and 
 
97 
 
 geological specimens of every description^ ores 
 and stones from all parts of the world^ dresses and 
 costumes of all the rude natives, and their imple- 
 ments of war, &c. &c., birds and beasts stuffed so 
 as to resemble life, and we could have spent whole 
 days in examining the several objects contained 
 herein. The Enghsh may well pride themselves 
 in possessing this magnificent Institution ; it re- 
 flects great credit on them for here is laid open a 
 most extensive field of learning, where every lover 
 of knowledge has access without any expense, 
 and thousands of books before him, to store his 
 mind with information — in fact he can here 
 satisfy his curiosity in every natural, and artificial 
 object. 
 
 F 
 
98 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 THE PARKS. 
 
 The extent and beauty of the Parks of London^ 
 at once struck us and impressed us with the mag- 
 nificence of the city, said to be the first in the 
 world. 
 
 St. James's Park. — The oldest in the Metro- 
 polis, was so called from St. James's Palace being 
 at its north side. Henry the Eighth found a rude 
 marsh here, caused it to be drained, pulled down 
 an ancient Hospital called St. Jameses and built 
 the Palace of St. James's; Charles the Second 
 caused the trees to be planted and had aviaries for 
 birds in that part now called Bird Cage Walk* 
 You can enter by the Horse Guards in Whitehall 
 Street, there are entrances also by Hyde Park 
 Corner, — in all we believe eight entrances where 
 sentinels are on duty, the public who are freely 
 admitted have only this restriction not to pull the 
 trees ; the Treasury, Admiralty, and Horse Guard's 
 look into this park ; you may walk many miles 
 in it ; Glueen Victoria lives here in a fine house 
 originally old Buckingham House, but which has 
 been nearly rebuilt and is now called Buckingham 
 
99 
 
 Palace. A large statue on a high pillar of the late 
 Duke of York looks into this park; it is near 
 where the Palace of George the Fourth stood^ 
 called Carlton House, now pulled down. 
 
 The Gkeen Park goes up to Piccadilly, it is all 
 surrounded by iron railings and a great number of 
 the houses of the nobility look into this park on 
 the western side ; there is a large sheet of water 
 in it and upon a high part called Constitution 
 Hill there is a good view of Buckingham Palace, 
 St. Jameses Park, Westminster Abbey and the 
 hills of the counties of Surrey and Kent, you may 
 every day see a great number of beautiful car- 
 riages, handsome horses and persons of all sorts 
 in large numbers walking, 
 
 Hyde Park contains four hundred acres^, and 
 as you enter it from the upper end of Piccadilly, 
 at the south east corner, close to the house of the 
 Duke of Wellington, is a large figure called 
 Achilles, put up in honour of the Duke of 
 Wellington and those who fought with him ; it 
 weighs thirty tons and was cast from cannons 
 taken at the battles of Salamanca and Waterloo. 
 There is a small river called the Serpentine, which 
 is very pretty for London, it adjoins Kensington 
 Gardens, which is also a park laid out in flower 
 gardens ; in Hyde Park the . soldiers are reviewed 
 and they have sham fights. No stage coaches are 
 admitted in Hyde Park, the road through this 
 park towards Kensington is called Rotten Row, 
 and here on most days from three until five o^-clock, 
 
100 
 
 Iler Majesty with her suite and all the fashionable 
 people in London, including the nobility, are to 
 be seen either on handsome horses or in magnifi- 
 cent carriages moving steadily along and nodding 
 to each other, and on Sundays from two until five 
 in addition to all the carriages and horses, thou- 
 sands of well dressed people of both sexes may be 
 seen walking : there are five entrances open from 
 sun -rise until nine at night. 
 
 The Regent^s Park is considerably more to the 
 northward and has enclosed about four hundred 
 and fifty acres. This park has all around it 
 magnificent houses looking* into it, built in every 
 varied style of architecture. At the south end is 
 an immense building called the Coliseum which we 
 visited and will describe at length as it deserves ; 
 at the end of the park is the Diorama, which we 
 have described, and the Zoological Gardens are 
 also in Regent^s Park which we have before 
 noticed ; we consider these parks as most condu- 
 cive to the health of the inhabitants of London. 
 All these parks are inclosed in by iron railings 
 with handsome gateways and they are infinitely 
 superior to the Esplanade at Bombay, the only 
 place of resort for the public near that city ; 
 here is to be found pure air, healthful exercise 
 can be taken, and here at certain hours every day, 
 more wealth, more respectability, more beauty, 
 is to be seen collected in one spot than is to be 
 found congregated in any other part of the 
 world. 
 
101 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 THEATRES. 
 
 The Italian Opera. — We were sent by our 
 kind friend^ Sir Charles Forbes^ to the Italian 
 Opera House, called the Queen^s Theatre. It is 
 situated at the corner of the Haymarket and Pal! 
 Mall, and is considered the most splendid of all 
 the London Theatres ; and the richest and most 
 fashionable of the inhabitants of London are to 
 be seen within its walls. The boxes will hold 
 nine hundred persons, and the pit and gallery 
 eight hundred each, thus two thousand five hun- 
 dred persons can be accommodated. The stage 
 is sixty feet deep and eighty feet longj thus afford- 
 ing plenty of room for the beautiful dancing. 
 This is one of the best and most respectable 
 places of amusement, patronised by the Queen 
 and the nobility, many of whom have boxes hired 
 for the season, entirely for their own use, and for 
 which they pay a large sum of money. The 
 Queen's box is easily distinguished from the 
 others by the richness of its fittings. It is on the 
 first tier, and the first from the stage on the left 
 
102 
 
 hand side. We were highly dehghted with it, 
 and the number of people that were congregated. 
 It is indeed always fully crowded when her 
 Majesty honours it with her presence^ which she 
 very frequently does. On the evening that we 
 were there, part of the performance was " William 
 Tell/^ who had struggled in former times for the 
 liberty of Switzerland, and who^ being an expert 
 marksman, had to shoot with an arrow by a 
 tyrant^s command, an apple from the head of his 
 son, which he did. The Queen was present, and 
 from our situation we had an excellent opportunity 
 of the honour of seeing her. She was elegantly 
 but simply dressed in white, and looked as happy 
 as a queen could look surrounded by wealth, 
 beauty, and by people who dearly loved her. 
 Upon the stage we saw a great many females 
 dressed exactly alike, all very handsome, dancing 
 and performing difficult evolutions, standing upon 
 one leg, and whirling rapidly round, with the 
 other stretched straight out. It was the last 
 evening upon which Taglioni, the favorite French 
 dancer, was to dance in England, and an English 
 friend who accompanied us very frequently asked 
 us how we liked her dancing. He, for his part, 
 was very much delighted with it, but to us it 
 appeared of very little interest ; and we were 
 very much surprised to hear that for every night 
 that she had appeared upon the stage she had 
 been paid one hundred and fifty guineas ! ! ! 
 
103 
 
 Only think, — one hundred and fifty guineas every 
 night to be paid in England to a woman to stand 
 for a long time like a goose upon one leg, then to 
 throw one leg straight out, twirl round three or 
 four times with the leg thus extended, to curtsey 
 so low as to nearly seat herself upon the ground, 
 to spring occasionally from one side of the stage 
 to another; all of which jumping about did not, 
 on her part, occupy an hour; and to get more 
 money for that hour every evening, than six 
 weavers in Spitalfields (who produce beautiful silk 
 for dresses) could earn all of them, working four- 
 teen hours every day, in twelve months ! It does 
 appear so absurd that a dancing woman should 
 thus take out of English pockets every night, for 
 an hour's jumping, more than would keep six 
 weavers of silk, their wives and families, for a 
 whole year. Had we not seen instances that con- 
 vinced us the English were clever people, we 
 should have thought them very foolish indeed 
 thus to pay a dancing puppet. 
 
 This, together with the elegant and fashionable 
 dresses of the ladies in the boxes, of a variety of 
 colours ; the chaste and appropriate decoration of 
 the interior of the house; the brilliancy of the 
 gas lights, and the multitude of wax candles ; the 
 soft and melodious harmony of the music; afforded 
 us the most magnificent and grand spectacle we 
 had ever beheld. Improper persons are not 
 allowed to enter this place, and we saw one man 
 
101 
 
 expelled without any ceremony^ on account of 
 some improper liberties he had taken. There is 
 also a large and handsomely fitted-up refreshment 
 room attached to this house, where refreshments, 
 such as pastry^ fruit, and the favorite beverages of 
 the seasons^ are to be procured. The visitors, at 
 least many of them, resort to this place in the 
 intervals of the different acts. The expenses of 
 this establishment must be enormous, as they pay 
 the singers many thousands a year^ at least the 
 principal ones, and some of the best dancers are 
 paid very largely; and there are such beautiful 
 performers on the musical instruments^ that they 
 and the swarm of dancers must cost much money. 
 The boxes are, most of them, subscribed for the 
 season ; but boxes and stalls may be engaged by 
 going to booksellers' at the west end of London, 
 at fourteen shillings and sixpence, pit tickets are 
 eight shillings and sixpence each, and the admis- 
 sion to the gallery is five shillings, 
 
 Drury Lane Theatre.— This is a very 
 large place, with a noble external appearance ; it 
 is 131 feet by 237 feet. There are boxes, pit, 
 and two galleries ; admission one shilling and two 
 shillings to the different galleries, three shillings 
 and sixpence to the pit, and five shillings to the 
 boxes. There is a box for the queen, and several 
 private boxes ; the lower tier of boxes is called 
 the dress circle, where none are admitted except the 
 well dressed. It was full, but of quite a different 
 
105 
 
 class of persons from the Opera House. The 
 persons in the gallery made much noise, whisthni^ 
 and yeUing. There is a beautiful chandelier, 
 lighted with gas, hung from the centre of the roof, 
 or dome. We saw here Van Amburgh with his 
 lions ; it was most wonderful to see the state of 
 subjection he had these fierce beasts in. We 
 were much surprised to see the boldness with 
 which he entered their den^ putting his head 
 between their teeth, and treating them as if they 
 were quiet dogs. Although a wonderful perform- 
 ance, it was not pleasing ; for we thought if their 
 savage nature should return to them the man 
 must die, and then people would reproach them- 
 selves for going to encovirage him in putting his 
 life in danger. 
 
 We again visited Drury Lane Theatre^ and 
 found it much altered : a boarded floor had been 
 laid over the pit level with the stage, and there 
 were many hundred persons walking about to 
 hear a beautiful concert of instruments ; some of 
 the finest music and best performers were to be 
 heard here for only one shilling each. 
 
 CovENT Garden Theatre — We went to 
 see Covent Garden Theatre^ the prices of admis- 
 sion were the samxC as at Drury Lane ; the theatre 
 appears to us much in the same style as Drury 
 Lane, but smaller. We saw performed the Critic: 
 we saw Madame Vestris (or Mrs. Charles Ma- 
 thews), who is the manager of this place; we 
 
 F 2 
 
106 
 
 should not have taken her for more than twenty- 
 six years of age^ and we are told she is near fifty ; 
 we forget the name of the second piece in which 
 she performed, but we were much amused. The 
 English, when they are pleased with anything in 
 a theatre, clap their hands and stamp their feet ; 
 and if they wish a dance or a song repeated, they 
 do both clap and stamp and whistle; and thus 
 they keep on until the person comes back and 
 does over again what they require. Attached to 
 the great theatres, is the saloon, where refresh- 
 ments of all kinds are to be procured, but virtuous 
 females could not be seen here ; for here, at the 
 half price, are to be found swarms of well-dressed, 
 highly-painted, but unhappy females, who, having 
 lost their virtue, resort, as a means of mainte- 
 nance, to the saloons of theatres, and with much 
 wantonness endeavour to draw young men into 
 the snares of vice and misery of which they them- 
 selves have been the victims. We do think this 
 very discreditable to be allowed ; and we also think 
 that much of the dissipation, and many of the 
 robberies committed by young men, may be traced 
 to an intimacy with improper females, which com- 
 menced within the saloon of a theatre. The 
 saloons of those theatres that are allowed to be 
 infested with such characters, are, instead of 
 being an accommodation to the public, harbours 
 of vice, at which a virtuous man would frown 
 with disgust. 
 
107 
 
 Astley's Amphitheatre. — This theatre is 
 situated a little beyond Westminster Bridge^ on 
 the Surrey side of the Thames. Here is to be 
 seen some capital horsemanship. We saw a man 
 ride and manage four horses at the same time; 
 and a little girl danced upon the horse^s back 
 whilst it was galloping ; she also danced upon the 
 tight rope. Some men took most extraordinary 
 leaps over a great many people's heads^ and ponies 
 jumped through hoops, and did many feats quite 
 like dogs ; we felt much pleased with these things. 
 The horses are admirably trained, they rise up 
 and lie down at the word of command ; they 
 lie as if dead at the bidding of the rider; and 
 when the tune is played they dance with their 
 feet as if they were human beings. At this place 
 a man of the name of Carter exhibits his collection 
 of wild beasts, consisting of a noble Bengal tiger, 
 a large African lion and lioness, and about five or 
 six other small tigers ; and he has so completely 
 tamed these wild animals, that a description of it 
 would be almost incredible to those who have 
 not seen them personally. 
 
 We saw one of the tigers seize him by the 
 neck, while he feigned to be asleep in a forest, 
 and drag him down a flight of stairs as if really 
 to devour him ; the scenery so well resembled a 
 wild jungle that a stranger will take it for 
 reality, and think the man to be really a victim to 
 the fury and rapacity of the beast : he, however, 
 
108 
 
 after a short struggle, completely overpowers the 
 animal. 
 
 He next drove the African lion in a car on 
 the stage, and it was curious to see the animal 
 harnessed and dragging the car with the driver, 
 who whipped him as if he was a waggon horse ; 
 he then entered the den in which all the animals 
 were kept together, and began boldly to thrash 
 them and make them obey his commands. He 
 made a bed of one, a pillow of another, and bol- 
 ster of a third, to take, as it were, his nightly 
 rest, while a fourth animal played all manner of 
 tricks with him ; and there he was, composed and 
 fearless, as if he had been bred and born amongst 
 the ferocious and greedy children of a wild and 
 dreary forest. The terms of admission are — 
 Boxes, four shillings ; Pit, two shillings ; Gallery, 
 one shilling. 
 
 Victoria Theatre. — This is a beautiful little 
 theatre, situated on the Southwark side of Water- 
 loo Bridge. We saw here Paul the Rover,^^ in 
 which we saw Mademoiselle Goodesham dance ; 
 she is the Taglioni of this place ; she is a pretty 
 little woman, and a very nice dancer. But here 
 we saw the Incredibles/^ in which Monsieur 
 Laroche and Monsieur Noel, two Frenchmen, 
 performed some extraordinary feats of strength. 
 They were bound to a whirling pole, and, sus- 
 pended by one leg, lifted several persons. A 
 bridge with sixteen persons was lifted, and a car, 
 
109 
 
 with an immense number of peojjle in it, was 
 lifted. Suspended by their feet, they drew up 
 several persons to the ceihng of the stage, and 
 exhibited various proofs of their great strength 
 and muscular power ; they were both fine made and 
 powerful men. In another very amusing piece, 
 called the ^^Dumb Savoyard," a Mr. Blanchard 
 performed a monkey, and it was almost impossible 
 to distinguish him from a real monkey. He ran 
 rapidly on his hands and feet about the stage, 
 played all manner of tricks, ran up the side of the 
 house to the ceiling, and all round the gallery, 
 descending on the other side. Every body w^as in 
 constant laughter at his freaks. We w^ere much 
 pleased with our evening's entertainment. 
 
 The English are decidedly a wonderful people, 
 and money in England can do every thing ; it 
 makes Horses dance, Lions work as Horses, and 
 men assume the appearance of Monkeys. 
 
 Besides these there are a great many other 
 Theatres in London, where we have not heen to, 
 such as the Haymarket Theatre, the Surry Theatre, 
 the Adelphi in the Strand, the Princess Theatre in 
 King Street St. James's, and others, the whole of 
 them are about twenty in London, but as they are 
 minor ones to what we had seen we did not deem 
 it prudent to waste our time by visiting all of 
 them. 
 
 In concluding our description of the Theatres 
 of London, we have to recommend to our country- 
 
110 
 
 men, should any of them on their visit to England 
 desire to see the Theatres in London, always to 
 go to the boxes, which are frequented by a res- 
 pectable class of people, and there they will receive 
 much civility and attention, but never for the 
 sake of economy go either to the pit or gallery of 
 any of them, (except the Italian Opera) because 
 these places are always resorted to by the humbler 
 classes, as well as by rogues, thieves, and pick- 
 pockets, and should a stranger happen to be there, 
 he is often teased and insulted with gross and 
 abusive language by these fellows, besides he could 
 not see much of the performances ; we state this 
 from the treatment we^ once experienced at 
 Astley's Amphitheatre, but on our discovering 
 the error, we immediately left the place. We 
 therefore advise our readers, always to pay a little 
 more and go to the boxes, rather than be in com- 
 pany with a set of fellows, who derive pleasure at 
 the expense of your comfort. 
 
 And here we would inform our countrymen 
 that the majority of the lower orders in England 
 are very rude in their manners and behaviour to- 
 wards strangers, whom they do not like to see 
 in their own country. 
 
Ill 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS. 
 
 The Gallery of Practical Science is 
 situated in the Lowther Arcade, near Charing 
 Cross, in the Strand, which is kept for the exhibi- 
 tion of models of all kinds of machinery ; there 
 is to be seen the Steam-Gun of Perkins, which 
 showers forth bullets, more than one hundred and 
 sixty every minute, and we could not help think- 
 ing, if universally adopted, the Steam-Gun would 
 go far towards putting an end to war. For when 
 the inventions of man have so far improved the 
 numerous instruments of destruction ; so that men 
 marching to a breach in a fortress, go to certain 
 death, no word of command will urge them for- 
 ward. And the strong man will then no longer 
 be able to tyrannize over the weak. For provided 
 any fortress is but provided with a few steam- 
 guns, throwing out bullets made of iron instead 
 of lead, column after column would be mown 
 down. Ships, which at present attack forts, 
 almost with a certainty of success, would by a well 
 
112 
 
 pointed steam-gun, have their decks swept of 
 their men and they themselves would be perforated 
 through and through and be sunk. We can also 
 conceive there would be no difficulty if the balls 
 were of iron in firing them red hot. And then 
 the trifling expence of the machine required for 
 the steam-gun, places it within reach of every 
 body^s pocket. We saw here very beautiful models 
 of locomotives, and of engines, and machines of 
 all descriptions. And we also saw the Daguerreo- 
 type which is the most extraordinary production 
 of modern times. We know not how better to 
 describe it than to say, that it is embodying a 
 shadow, or, in other words, that it permanently 
 fixes upon a plate previously prepared for the 
 purpose, the reflection of houses, trees, &c., and 
 the picture is more perfect than any painter can 
 make it. The French government purchased the 
 discovery of Monsieur Daguerre, and very kindly 
 made it known to the public. In a room fitted 
 up as a Theatre, w^ith shutters by which the light 
 can be totally excluded, M. Dele Croix, a French 
 gentleman, explains all the process. Five distinct 
 processes are required to perfect a drawing by 
 means of the Daguerreotype. The plate which is of 
 thin copper silvered over, must be carefully polished^ 
 an operation requiring much care and nicety of 
 hand, very fine pumice stone is applied in the first 
 instance with cotton and oil. It is then applied 
 with dried cotton, after which, a small quantity of 
 
113 
 
 diluted nitric acid is carefully dropped on the 
 plate^ and accurately distributed over the surface, 
 another light polishing succeeds, after which, the 
 plate is heated over a spirit lamp, which must be 
 moved beneath by the hand so as to distribute the 
 heat equally; or, which is preferable over char- 
 coal, until its surface is evenly covered with a 
 white appearance like a veil spread over it, when 
 it must be suddenly cooled by laying it on a cold 
 stone or a marble table ; after this process, the 
 operation of the acid is repeated three times, but 
 the plates are generally put by after it has been 
 twice applied, that the operation may not be too 
 long delayed ; the third and last application must be 
 made immediately before the plate is used. This 
 polishing is the only part of the operation that can 
 be said to be seen : for in all the others, except 
 placing the plate in the Camera, which in the 
 Adelaide Gallery was done out of the room, the 
 day light must be excluded, and the light of a 
 small taper is alone allowable. As soon as the 
 plate is polished, the shutters are closed and the 
 operator places the plate in a close box to under- 
 go the second process — The application of a sensi- 
 tive coating. This is done by fixing the plate face 
 downwards in a box contrived for the purpose, in 
 the bottom of wiiich stands a cup with Iodine, 
 broken into small pieces and covered with gauze. 
 The fumes of the Iodine rise, and being evenly 
 distributed by the gauze, spread themselves over 
 
114 
 
 the plate^ which^ within half an hour is covered 
 with a fine coating of a yellow gold colour. 
 The moment it has acquired a sufficient coat- 
 ing of the Iodine, it is removed to a box, 
 and being closed up, the third process is, 
 preparing the Camera Obscura and placing the 
 plate in it. In order to judge of the effect of the 
 object to be represented, the focus is regulated 
 through a powerful lens, on a plate of ground glass 
 occupying the position in which the prepared plate 
 is to be placed. When every thing is properly ad- 
 justed, the box containing the plate is introduced 
 and exposed to the focus of the Camera. The 
 time necessary to complete an impression varies 
 according to the power of the sun^s rays, some- 
 times in about twenty-five minutes a representa- 
 tion is formed on the plate, or speaking otherwise, 
 the shadow is then embodied. 
 
 The fourth operation is bringing out the image. 
 To do this, the board with the plate is removed 
 from the box and adjusted face downwards, at an 
 angle of forty-five, in an iron box contrived for the 
 purpose, in the bottom of which is a cup of mercury 
 which is heated by a spirit lamp placed beneath ; 
 after it has remained here some time, it is replaced 
 in the case with folding doors until the fifth and 
 last process (removing the sensitive coating) is 
 performed. This operation is to remove a portion 
 of the Iodine when a solution of common salt is 
 made use of. The plate is first dipped in common 
 
115 
 
 water, and is then plunged into the salt and water 
 and carefully moved round with a copper hoop ; 
 when the yellow colour has departed, the plate is 
 placed on a desk at an angle of forty-five, and dis- 
 tilled water warm, but not boiling, is carefully 
 poured over the surface. As soon as the moisture 
 has evaporated, the operation is completed, and 
 the drawing may be safely exposed to the full 
 light of day. The appearance of these drawings 
 is very peculiar. The shadows are a dull grey, 
 varying until they become almost blacky and 
 though the pictures they delineate are accurate in 
 the extreme, they are not pleasing. They appear 
 unnatural and look somewhat Hke a moonlight 
 scene. The Daguerreotype, with all its necessary 
 apparatus, is maimfactured and sold in Paris, for 
 about £20. In Bombay, where the sun is always 
 powerful^ pictures of scenery could daily be 
 produced. And one great advantage is, that for 
 copying, their fidelity to nature will strongly 
 recommend them. We cannot take leave of the 
 Adelaide Gallery without expressing our admira- 
 tion of the usefulness of such an institution. 
 There is a powerful microscope and lectures upon 
 several subjects are delivered, and for all tkis^ 
 the admission is only one shilling. 
 
 Polytechnic Institution. — We often went 
 to see this Institution, 309^ Regent Street, it was 
 established in 1838, upon the same principle 
 as the Gallery of Practical Science, in the 
 
116 
 
 Lowther Arcade, but having had the advan- 
 tage of seeing the working of that institution^ 
 it started with pecuhar advantages over its 
 predecessor, and we are quite sure that there is 
 not in any country to be procured so much 
 intellectual amusement for a shilling, as is to be 
 had at the Polytechnic Institution ; for you can be 
 constantly amused and your mind improved, from 
 half-past ten in the morning until half-past four, 
 and only pay one shilling, or you can go from 
 seven until nearly eleven at night, for a similar 
 sum. A band of music plays daily from three to 
 five o'clock^ and in the evening from about eight 
 until the exhibition closes. There are thirty 
 different rooms connected with the institution. 
 The whole building is three hundred and twenty 
 feet in length. 
 
 The first apartment you enter, is a hall forty- 
 five feet long and forty feet wide, devoted to ma- 
 chinery and manufactures. All the machines in 
 this hall are worked by steam j)ower. There is a 
 lathe for turning ivory, hard woods, brass, &c., 
 with all the apparatus, for the most beautiful of 
 ornamental turning. A loom for weaving ribbons, 
 a loom for weaving checks, a braiding machine, a 
 twisting machine, a warping mill, and a beautiful 
 four horse power steam engine. On the opposite 
 side is a gem engraver at work, a copper plate print- 
 ing press at work, steel and copper plates en- 
 graving, also a manufactory for optical instruments, 
 
117 
 
 and for grinding and preparing lenses for tele- 
 scopes and glasses for spectacles^ &c. 
 
 You then proceed to the great hall^ one hun- 
 dred and twenty-feet long, forty feet wide, and 
 forty feet high ; in the centre are two canals with 
 a surface of seven hundred feet of water, attached 
 to which are all the appurtenances of a dock yard, 
 constructed by the government engineers^ the 
 models deposited by permission of the lords of the 
 admiralty, with a great many locks to keep up a 
 head of water upon canals^ and a series of w^ater 
 wheels in motion, to illustrate lectures on naval 
 architecture and hydrostatics. At the end of the 
 canal is a deep reservoir of water into which a 
 diving bell capable of containing four or five per- 
 sons is lowered to a considerable depth under 
 water, air being supplied by two powerful air 
 pumps, so that visitors may descend with con- 
 venience, and whilst we were there w^e saw several 
 persons go down, among whom were some ladies^ 
 the only inconvenience experienced whilst under 
 the water is a great pressure upon the inside of 
 the ears, which to stout persons of a full habit of 
 body becomes very painfully troublesome. We 
 know several persons who have descended and 
 they have felt no ill effects from it. A diver, 
 clothed in a patent water and air tight diving 
 dress, goes doAvn a ladder to the bottom of the 
 reservoir of water, being supplied from the air 
 pump with air through a tube that enters into his 
 
118 
 
 dress ; he is when prepared to descend^ the oddest 
 looking creature ever seen, he has an immense 
 helmet of white metal over his head, and in front 
 of his eyes are two large thick pieces of glass 
 protected by bars of metal, this helmet is strongly 
 strapped to his water proof dress, and he then 
 presents a most laughable appearance ; he is 
 obliged to load himself with heavy weights before • 
 he gets into the water, otherwise his buoyancy 
 would cause him to float on the surface, but thus 
 loaded down he goes, and will pick up money or 
 any small thing thrown down to him, walking 
 about the bottom of the clear water as uncon- 
 cerned as possible ; a model of a ship containing a 
 small charge of gunpowder is sunk some depth 
 under the water, to which the diver attaches wires, 
 communicating at a considerable distance with a 
 Voltaic battery which when connected instantly 
 explodes the powder and the vessel is shattered to 
 pieces, thus illustrating Colonel Pasley^s clever 
 method of destroying the wreck of the Royal 
 George at Spithead. 
 
 An illustration of the patented plan for prevent- 
 ing ships from sinking and for raising them when 
 sunk without injury is also exhibited. The diving 
 bell is made of cast iron, open at the bottom with 
 seats all around, and is of the weight of three 
 tons; the interior for the divers is lighted by 
 openings in the crown of thick plate glass, which 
 are firmly secured by brass frames screwed to the 
 
119 
 
 bell : it is suspended by a massive chain to a large 
 swing crane, with a powerful. crab, the windlass of 
 which grooved spirally and the chain passes four 
 times over it into the well beneath, to which chain 
 is suspended the compensation weights, and it is 
 so accurately arranged, that the weight of the bell 
 is at all depths counterpoised by the weight acting 
 upon the spiral shaft ; the bell is put into action 
 ^several times a day, and visitors may safely descend 
 a considerable depth into the tank, which with 
 canals, hplds nearly a thousand gallons of water, 
 the whole of which if required, can be emptied in 
 less than one minute. The diver's dress, helmet^ 
 air-tubes, &c., are patented articles, having been 
 introduced by Mr. Deane. With the diving bell 
 and the diver's dress, every thing almost can now 
 be performed under water ; the tops of piles can 
 be sawn off, an eye bolt can be driven into a 
 sunken vessel to make purchases fast to, in 
 order that she may be hove up. Rocks can be 
 blasted by the introduction into them, at any depth 
 under water, of charges of powder, which can be 
 exploded through water proof tubes, or by a 
 galvanic battery by wires. 
 
 A gallery runs all round this hall, which is 
 thickly studded with models and curiosities of all 
 kinds. At each end of the gallery is placed large 
 metallic circular reflectors, about twelve feet in 
 diameter; they must be quite one hundred feet 
 apart from each other, — and yet, although there is 
 
120 
 
 a constant noise from the operations of the several 
 working models^ and of the number of persons 
 who are talking, a person whispering to one, is 
 distinctly heard by his friend at the opposite side 
 in front of the other shield. 
 
 The effect in looking down from this gallery 
 upon the several things in constant motion, is 
 quite enchanting, and we do not hesitate to say^ 
 that if we had seen nothing else in England besides 
 the Adelaide Gallery and the Polytechnic Institu- 
 tion, we should have thought ourselves amply 
 repaid for our voyage from India to England. 
 
 There can be nothing conceived more interest- 
 ing to persons like ourselves, who having from an 
 early age been taught to believe that next to our 
 duty of thankfulness and praise to our God and 
 Creator, that it is the duty of every man to do all 
 that he can to make all mankind happy; we were 
 early instructed that the man who devoted his 
 energies to the works of science and of art de- 
 served well of his fellow men. To us then 
 brought up in India for scientific pursuits^ and 
 longing ardently to acquire practical information, 
 connected with modern improvements^ more par- 
 ticularly with naval architecture, steam engines, 
 steam boats, and steam navigation, these two 
 Galleries of practical science seemed to us to 
 embrace all that we had come over to England to 
 make ourselves acquainted with, and it was with 
 gratitude to the original projectors of these insti- 
 
121 
 
 tiitions that we gazed upon the soul exciting scene 
 before us^ we thought of the enchantments as re- 
 lated in the Arabian nights entertainments^ and 
 they faded away into nothingness compared with 
 what we then saw. Here within this limited 
 space were miniature steam ships, with every 
 possible variety of improved machinery^ gliding 
 upon the water ; here were exhibited all and every 
 description of paddle wheels for propelling them 
 through the water. There was a ship upon the 
 stays ready to be launched upon the removal of 
 the dog shores ; here was every possible variety of 
 lock gates for entrances to wet docks, calculated 
 to open with facility and to resist the pressure of a 
 great weight of water when the ship was in 
 dock ; here you could learn how safely to descend 
 into the sea with diiferent contrivances and here 
 you were taught how you might best ascend into 
 the air in a Balloon. Here the scientific man 
 for hours and days may acquire valuable inform- 
 ation and here the man in quest of pleasure and 
 amusement may day after day gaze upon pleasing 
 inventions and beautiful models of a light nature 
 to please the eye whilst his ear would be charmed 
 with good music. 
 
 It is not our intention to describe all we saw at 
 the Polytechnic, or to follow any particular rule or 
 order with them, but we must point out a few of 
 those things which most delighted us. We should 
 speak first of models ; steam boats, life boats, &c. 
 
 G 
 
122 
 
 invented by Captain George Smith, R. N. a tem- 
 porary rudder fitted with chain rings^ a lower mast 
 fitted with iron fishes to preserve it if wounded or 
 injured^ paddle wheels fitted with grooved and 
 cogged w^heels for the application of manual labour 
 at the capstan and winches in case of accident to 
 the steam engine or to be used before the steam 
 can be got up, an alarum to be used on board 
 steam vessels in a fog, the gong or bell to be con- 
 stantly kept striking by the machinery, a life boat 
 formed of the upper section of the paddle box of 
 steam vessels, the ends are made with two air 
 tight cases or tanks, and the model is intended 
 to shew the practicability of every steam vessel 
 carrying two large boats for the purpose of saving 
 the lives of the passengers and crew in the event 
 of the vessel being burnt, wrecked, or sunk by 
 coming in collision with other vessels. The 
 model is fitted to shew an easy method of getting 
 the boats into the water when required, this plan 
 has been adopted and fitted to Her Majesty's 
 steam vessels Carron and Firefly and to the 
 Pacific company's vessels, Chili and Peru, and 
 ordered for those of the Royal Mail company and 
 of the Niger expedition ; there are also plans of 
 his for propelling steam vessels by propellers in 
 the shape of feathered wheels astern the vessels, 
 instead of having paddle wheels at the side; all 
 these things look very pretty in models, and 
 many persons think if they perform correctly 
 
123 
 
 upon these small scales they must answer, but 
 the fact is otherwise. It is from its great weight 
 absolutely necessary to have the boiler and steam 
 engine near the centre of all vessels and the 
 great awkwardness about having wheels astern 
 is that a very large shaft is required to pass from 
 the engine to the stern in order to have the power 
 of giving motion to the wheels, which is very in- 
 convenient, inasmuch as it interferes with the 
 internal arrangements of the vessel^ and there is 
 always danger of the shaft becoming out of order; 
 it also gives a great tremor to the stern of the 
 ship, and is very likely to strain that part. We 
 know it is very desirable to keep the wheels 
 out of the way of shot in action but we think 
 much consideration is required before it is decided 
 to abandon the present paddle wheels, as they can 
 and do propel ships through the water under all 
 the action of rough sea, contrary winds and 
 powerful tides. Look at the extraordinary quick 
 passages made by the Great Western and the 
 British Queen and more recently by Mr. Cunard's 
 Halifax Mail packets. We hope these new fangled 
 things will be well tried before our good old well- 
 working paddle wheels are laid by. 
 
 The safety boats over the paddle wheels is a 
 most important improvement, and every steam 
 vessel should be obliged to have them, as they are 
 no inconvenience and are beautifully arranged for 
 quickly being lowered for use. 
 
124 
 
 There is a Lecture Room capable of containing 
 five hundred persons and in the course of the day 
 the following different lectures, are delivered; 
 Electro-Magnetic and Electrical demonstration, 
 Coining Press and Electro-Magnetic Motive 
 Machine^ Aerostation^ in which balloons are infla- 
 ted and liberated. Chemical Lecture, Electrical 
 Lecture, and Microscope, also on the Electro- 
 type, method of protecting ships from Lightning 
 and several other branches of Natural Philosophy, 
 and all this recollect for one shilHng only. 
 
 The Electrotype is the most extraordinary dis- 
 covery of modern days. A copper plate engraving 
 of a finished picture, that has taken an artist 
 months to complete^ can here by chemical solu- 
 tions and an electric shock produce a duplicate 
 plate so exact that the print taken from the one 
 or the other cannot be distinguished. A wax 
 impression of a seal can in a few hours be so 
 admirably taken in copper by the Electrotype 
 that impressions exactly resembling the wax im- 
 pression may be produced without any person 
 telling the copy from the original. Every stamp 
 or any raised figure may be copied exactly. It is 
 an important discovery, but it is a very dangerous 
 one. All stamps to deeds can be produced ex- 
 actly like the Government ones, the raised em- 
 bossed Queen^s head intended as the Government 
 postage stamp, we have heard, is about to be with- 
 drawn, irom the ease with which any body can 
 
125 
 
 make a die to produce them. And dies for mak- 
 ing counterfeit money can be produced without 
 any trouble. These are the evils^ on the other 
 hand the cheapness with which endless facsimiles 
 may be made of wood and other engravings will 
 materially lessen the price at which books with 
 good pictures can be sold, and there is no saying 
 where this thing is to end ; dies for embossing 
 plate can be multiplied^ and every thing that has 
 a raised surface can be copied exactly. 
 
 We saw in the lecture room numerous living 
 animalculse in water, exhibited through Cary^s 
 Oxyhydrogen Microscope, upon a screen con- 
 taining four hundred and twenty-five square feet, 
 and to see the hundreds of monsters of horrid 
 shapes in a drop of loater magnified so as to ap- 
 pear several feet long, and to see a flea made to 
 look as large almost as an Elephant, and the 
 myriads of live eels in a bit of sour paste no 
 bigger than a pin's head filled us with wonder and 
 awe of that Being, who has created the most 
 minute living thing with all the air vessels and all 
 the functions of life similar to the larger objects of 
 his creation ; and when we remembered to have 
 heard it said, that there were men who say there 
 is no God, we could only wish that such men, 
 if any such there be^ could be brought here to see 
 these things, and then surely if they were not 
 devoid of all reason they would say these things 
 cannot be the effect of chance ; there must have 
 
126 
 
 been, and now is a great, a good God who created 
 all things for some wise and good purpose, and if 
 we cannot penetrate all his designs, if there are 
 some things for which we cannot account, let us 
 bow with awe before our Creator, and acknow- 
 ledge that all his productions are good, and let all 
 human beings upon the face of the earth praise 
 the Lord their God. 
 
 There is a very complete laboratory under the 
 Hall, where Mr. Maughan, Chemist of the Insti- 
 tution, has a chemical glass, and where ores, 
 minerals, earths, &c. are tested and their com- 
 ponent parts made known. 
 
 In a room under ground there was a beautiful 
 picture of Canton by a Chinese Artist, twenty- 
 five feet long, magnified very much by powerful 
 glasses. And through them we looked upon two 
 paintings on glass from pictures by the celebrated 
 Mr. Martin, Joshua commanding the sun to 
 stand still,'^and " the destruction of Nineveh,^^ and 
 they were most beautiful. Opposite to these several 
 drawings taken by the Daguerreotype were exhi- 
 bited through powerful magnifying glasses, and we 
 have to express our thanks to the gentleman who 
 exhibited them, and who we understood to say 
 that he had taken several of the views himself, for 
 his kindness in changing the pictures several times 
 whilst we were there, in order that we as inhabi- 
 tants of another land might see as much as 
 possible. We saw a view near Windsor, some 
 
127 
 
 views taken from the front of the Institution and 
 several views of places in and near Paris. We 
 should not forget to mention that the temperature 
 of the whole building is kept uniform and of a 
 pleasing warmth byBramaVs hot water apparatus. 
 
 We looked into an apartment where there was a 
 remarkable model of a portion of the Isle of Wight, 
 modelled according to a scale, by Captain Bosca- 
 wen Ibbotson, and where every elevation or 
 declivity, every hill, every thing upon it for nine 
 miles is shewn with mathematical precision ; we 
 were told it was the work of many years, and 
 we should think that an individual, who was 
 capable of producing so finished, so laborious 
 a piece of art as this, could have been much more 
 beneficially employed, for after all it is good for 
 nothing, you peep through the glasses and see 
 that it is there, and regret that so much valuable 
 time should have been consumed in so valueless a 
 production. 
 
 We were much pleased to see a great many 
 models of machines for cultivating the earth, 
 agricultural instruments upon improved plans; 
 of ploughs, harrows, rakes, threshing machines 
 and bone crushers, and drills for sowing seeds 
 instead of throwing them with the hand : a beau- 
 tiful model of a shop front in Regent Street very 
 much pleased us. We were also pleased with the 
 twenty-three articles illustrating the English ma- 
 nufacture of glass at Mr. Apsley Pellatt^s Glass 
 
128 
 
 Works;, Bankside, London. Here were articles 
 of all sorts of colours, beautifully cut ; in parti- 
 cular the Queen^s portrait, and a decanter with 
 equestrian figures from the Elgin Marbles in the 
 British Museum : there were also beautiful speci- 
 mens of the manufacture of English China-ware, 
 being part of services executed for the royal 
 castle at Windsor. We also saw a beautiful spe- 
 cimen of ivory turning, being a bust of the 
 Queen, and several small busts of the Queen, 
 Prince Albert, and Duke of Wellington, in 
 marble, and a beautiful specimen of cloth manu- 
 factured from glass. We here saw a pneumatic 
 telegraph (Crosley's) which, by means of air in a 
 tube, will convey signals many miles; and Dr. 
 Arnott's hydrostatic bed, upon which sick persons 
 can move readily, and are not liable, if confined a 
 length of time by illness, to become sore from 
 lying in bed. We saw also a specimen of cloth 
 four thousand years old, taken from a mummy ; 
 a very ingenious weighing machine (of Marriott's) : 
 you sit down in a chair, and a hand, like that of a 
 clock, points out your weight. We observed a 
 very curious Egyptian astronomical clock, made 
 by Mr. T. Richards of Droitwich^ and it is an 
 illustration of the Egyptian system of astronomy ; 
 representing the eastern hemisphere of the earth 
 as a fixed body, the tides in progressive motion 
 round the earth, the moon, surrounded by stars, 
 performing her diurnal motion round the earth, to 
 
129 
 
 a second of time; exhibiting her phases, indi- 
 cating her age, her position in the heavens, her 
 proximity to the sun, her time of rising, setting, 
 &c. The sun, as a body, is represented making 
 his apparent diurnal revolution ; his situation in 
 the heavens, together with the minute he rises 
 and sets each day ; the relative duration of day 
 and night ; the sun's meridian altitude ; the 
 ebbing and flowing of the tide in the Thames is 
 seen in a view of London, and the time of high 
 water is pointed out ; the day and the name of 
 the month are exhibited throughout the year^ 
 with the number of days in each month. This 
 clock has been in action two years, and fully 
 realizes the expectations of the inventor; the 
 mechanism and combinations being quite free 
 from perplexity, its motions are not liable to 
 derangement, and it requires no other attention 
 than a common time -piece. 
 
 There are two most amusing machines, called 
 Phantasmascopes, one on each side the gallery on 
 the l^rass rails. A large circular plate, called a 
 disc, is perpetually revolving ; and when you look 
 through the apertures in the one, the optical 
 deception is so arranged that, from the quick 
 revolution of the disc, all the figures appear to be 
 rapidly playing on the fiddle, and in the other 
 
 playing at leap frog/' that is jumping over each 
 other's backs. 
 
 There is a very ingenious model of an appa- 
 
130 
 
 ratus to rescue persons from the upper windows of 
 a house^ the lower part of which may be in 
 flames; it is called a Fire-escape; it consists of a 
 yard similar to that of a ship, made by quickly 
 fitting together several pieces of wood, and a 
 basket at one end; this is attached to the fire 
 engine, by a windlass and very easy machinery it 
 may be by two people thrust towards a window, 
 ' to receive and rescue the persons within from 
 the flames, and lower them safely to the ground. 
 
 There was a glass case containing a series of 
 objects illustrating the manufacture of Caoutchouc, 
 or India Rubber, with specimens of the raw vege- 
 table gum, in various forms, as it is imported, 
 and likewise numerous articles manufactured from 
 it, from the ropes for the breechings of a ship's 
 gun, to the silk-like fabric of a lady^s dress. It 
 is astonishing how extensively India Rubber is 
 used in England ; the climate is so variable that 
 it is at all times, if you go far from home, advis- 
 able to be prepared for rain; it was therefore 
 always considered right to possess an article of 
 clothing that would resist v/et. Mr. Mackintosh 
 discovered a mode of dissolving India Rubber in 
 a cheap spirit, called Naptha, obtained extensively 
 from the manufactories where coal gas is made ; 
 and he applied this dissolved India Rubber to 
 bringing together two pieces of cloth, and, passing 
 them through heavy rollers, produced a good- 
 looking material, from which he made most ex- 
 
131 
 
 tensively cloaks^ coats, trousers, and divers other 
 articles, perfectly water-j^roof. These articles, 
 although now manufactured by several persons, 
 still all go by the name of Mackintoshes. A Mr. 
 Cording, three or four doors to the westward of 
 Temple Bar, has manufactured a light cloak of 
 water-proof muslin, very durable, and so port- 
 able that you can with ease put it into a large 
 pocket, whilst it keeps out the heaviest rain 
 quite as well as the heaviest garment would. 
 Tubes for various purposes are manufactured 
 from India Rubber, and we have heard it can be 
 used with iron wire so as to form a rope almost 
 indestructible, and yet that it can be tied and spliced 
 quite as readily as if it were made of hemp. 
 There are elastic soles to boots and shoes, depo- 
 sited in the Polytechnic, by Davie of Charing 
 Cross, in which India Rubber largely enters. 
 India Rubber is now used very extensively, in- 
 stead of glass, for stoppers of decanters, and they 
 are found highly serviceable, as they totally 
 exclude the air. 
 
 Here is to be seen Bramah's and Dickson's 
 Rotatory Engine ; it consists of a cylinder having 
 an inner cylinder whose axis is eccentric to tlie 
 outer one, and which is furnished with four 
 blades, or pistons, working freely through it; 
 the steam acts^ on the outer edges of the blades 
 and drives them round, thus producing a rota- 
 tory motion. Here we also sav/ an ingenious 
 
132 
 
 model of the Thames Tunnel. Here is also to be 
 seen a mast-rigging model, with specimens of 
 cordage made of wire. We are told that the 
 Blackwall Railway has a rope more than ten miles 
 in lengthy made of wire^ and that it has been in 
 daily severe use for some weeks^ and that it is 
 highly spoken of for pliability and durability. 
 Should the manufacture of this description of 
 rope be found to answer^ it will be a very grand 
 thing for England. 
 
 Iron is found most abundantly in England^ and 
 of course in its manufacture gives employment to 
 an immense number of persons, who all consume 
 articles that bring in wealth to the Revenue^ such 
 as Beer, Tea, Sugar and Coffee, and wear clothes 
 made from cotton which pays a duty, whilst hemp 
 is brought from Russia and is paid for in English 
 money and the Russians do not take in return 
 any of the manufactured articles of English make, 
 so that if iron wire can produce ropes even as 
 good only as hemp, all that money will spread 
 itself usefully over England from the hand work- 
 ing man through the shop-keepers and do much 
 good. It is most extraordinary to see the multi- 
 plicity of purposes to which iron is now applied, 
 steam boats, and indeed steam ships, are built 
 now of iron ; Mr. Waghorn has carriages on the 
 desert on the overland route to India composed 
 entirely of iron, lighter than they could be made 
 of any other material and possessing this advan- 
 
133 
 
 tage that hot weather will not cause them to 
 shrink. Iron cables we have all seen and the strong 
 prejudice that existed against them^ of their want 
 of elasticity^ is dying away, for singular as it may 
 appear, iron cables have in use, really more elasticity 
 than hempen ones ; for a ship always rides with her 
 hempen cable in a state of tension (that is drawn 
 out in a line from the anchor to the ship's bow), 
 but on the contrary from its weight the iron cable 
 always hangs slack, (bellying as sailors term it,) 
 and the fact is when the ship heaves the giving 
 up of this bellying of the cable yields greater 
 relief than the elasticity of a hempen cable can 
 possibly do. We have chain used for standing 
 rigging and for securing the bowsprit, we see it 
 used most extensively for knees of ships^ we use 
 it in ships for hawse holes, and for facings to bit 
 heads, it has been used for boats, it is used by 
 thousands of tons for Rail-roads. Within doors 
 in England every domestic article may be met 
 with in cast iron, it is used for stair-cases, for 
 mantle-pieces and for cooking kettles^ and in the 
 church yard it is used for monuments instead of 
 tomb-stones, on the high road it is extensively 
 used to supersede mile stones, and we hear that it 
 is used even for coffins. 
 
 How much does England owe to her inexhaust- 
 ible mines of coal and of iron ; it is to them she 
 is indebted for all her riches, gold and silver mines 
 are not to be compared to those of coal and of 
 
134 
 
 iron ; gold and silver would employ but few- 
 persons and enrich but very few, but coals and 
 iron in their processes afford employment to 
 countless thousands, they are the parents of the 
 steam engine, — no country, destitute of coal and 
 iron, can compete with England in steam machi- 
 nery, it would be an endless subject to treat upon. 
 Coals and iron are the parents of the power loom, 
 of the spinning jenny, of all the machinery in 
 England. Oh ! happy England, possessing within 
 yourself this source of employment, of manufac- 
 ture, and of wealth, old happy England you are, 
 and long will be, the wonder and envy of the 
 world, you possess materials that enable you to 
 work machinery, that allows you to bring cotton 
 from India, thousands of miles, to manufacture it 
 into fine muslin, and to send it back to India and 
 to sell it there much cheaper than it can be made 
 there, although a few pence per day will there 
 keep those employed in manufactures ^ — it enables 
 Englishmen in every market upon the Continent 
 of Europe to offer cloths, cottons, stockings and 
 silks at prices so much lower than they can be 
 produced even in those places were labour is cheap^ 
 that in many parts they prohibit EnglisJi goods in 
 order that their manufactories may not be closed, 
 from inability to produce such goods so cheap. 
 What does not coal and iron do ? What is there 
 in England that cannot be done by steam ? Car- 
 riages fly upon iron rail roads heated by coal. 
 
135 
 
 wood is sawn by steam, iron is hammered into 
 anchors, and rolled into plates^ bars, and wire by 
 steam. 
 
 The very fires to get up all these powerful ma- 
 chines are blown up by steam, water is pumped 
 by steam^ butter is churned by steam, books are 
 printed by steam, money is coined by steam, ships^ 
 heedless of wind and tide, navigate the seas by 
 steam, guns are fired by steam, flour is ground 
 by steam, and every article of clothing from head 
 to foot is made by steam. 
 
 A very great improvement has taken place in 
 the manufacture of steel from British iron by 
 Messrs. Hollis, Solly and Son of Birmingham, 
 specimens of which are deposited in the Poly- 
 technic Institution. In this institution also is a 
 complete mummy of a female, supposed to have 
 been the wife of a priest in the reign of one 
 of the Pharaohs, three thousand six hundred 
 years since. Were we inclined to find fault with 
 anything in this institution, we should say that the 
 models of the ships are not sufficiently good in 
 comparison with the other things. We think 
 if it is necessary to exhibit any of them here 
 they should be good and highly finished. Here 
 is a model of a carriage to be put into 
 motion by electro-magnetism, and also Taylor's 
 electro-magnetic motive machine, and it is seri- 
 ously thought either by this method or by 
 forming a vacuum by an air pump^ vessels and 
 
136 
 
 machinery may be set in motion without using 
 steam. This however by most persons is laughed 
 at^ but when we kno\^' how persons were ridiculed 
 when steam boats were first talked of, we will not 
 venture to say but that some propelling power 
 may be found that may answer the same purpose ; 
 certain it is that Brown^s vacuum machine has 
 propelled a small boat, but then as we have said 
 before, working models are one thing and working 
 in reality is another. There is an ingenious plan 
 of ^' battens for a compressor for checking and 
 stopping chain cables when running out of a 
 ship. 
 
 There is a most ingenious method of raising 
 water called " HalPs patent hydraulic belt or 
 water elevator;" this entirely novel and important 
 invention is one of the cheapest, simplest, and 
 most powerful hydraulic machines ever known ; it 
 consists of an endless woollen band or belt, passing 
 over two plain rollers, one fixed at the top of the 
 shaft, and another below the surface of the water, 
 by moving the upper roller in such a way as to 
 give the belt a velocity of one thousand feet per 
 minute^ the adhesion of the water overcomes its 
 gravity and a larger quantity than in the case of a 
 common pump is raised and discharged in a 
 uniform and continuous stream at the required 
 elevation. The following testimony in favour of 
 the hydraulic belt is extracted from the Polytech- 
 nic Journal for the month of November, 1840^ 
 
137 
 
 " For thousands of years the brains of philoso- 
 phers have been racked in the pursuit of means 
 " for lifting water^ wherein the greatest possible 
 " amount of capacity, simplicity and economy 
 ^' should be combined ; odd as it may appear^ and 
 ^' it does appear odd, it was reserved for the 
 present age to accomplish and bring forward an 
 invention, which far surpasses in these important 
 requisites any thing of the kind previously 
 known, an invention which has withstood the 
 test of experiment under every form and circum- 
 stance of disadvantage to which new things 
 brought for the first time into practical use^ 
 without the aid of lengthened or indeed of any 
 experience, are necessarily exposed^ the power 
 which this water elevator posseses by nature is 
 one of the most extraordinary and least easily 
 explained things about it. A common pump 
 will lift water thirty feet at an expenditure of one 
 hundred to produce sixty, that is for every hun- 
 dred pounds of mechanical force applied to the 
 piston sixty pounds of water will be raised^ and 
 this is the extent of its capacity under the most 
 " favourable circumstances ; but in the case of a 
 force or lift pump where water has to be carried 
 above the height of thirty feet by the force of 
 compression, this per centage will materially 
 decrease in proportion to the height to which 
 the water has to be elevated. This part of the 
 subject appeared to us to be so all important 
 
138 
 
 and absorbing, that we made a point of having 
 an experiment tried in our own presence^ in 
 " order to discover if the statement made by Mr, 
 Hall^ that his belt would lift at great depths, 
 eighty-five to ninety pounds of water for every 
 hundred pounds of power employed^ was sub- 
 stantially correct. The result of that experi- 
 ment which was made at a well in the Portman 
 " market, one hundred and thirty feet deep was, 
 that steam power equal to one hundred and 
 seven thousand eight hundred and ninety^two 
 pounds, lifted ninety-six thousand four hundred 
 and sixty pounds of water, or nearly ninety per 
 " cent. Here then, we have the simplest hydraulic 
 machine known, which shall do more work than 
 the most complex can get through, and the cost 
 of which, both in its original construction, 
 and subsequent working shall be a great deal 
 " less. Its portability too is another great feature 
 " in the way of recommendation.'' 
 
 We have taken much pains to give the pre- 
 ceding report of this most economical and admi- 
 rable mode of raising water, thinking that it may 
 be very useful in some parts of India. It is as a 
 large working model fully proved to be what it is 
 represented, and we think it right to give this 
 publicity to it. 
 
 We have given a very long account of the 
 visits we paid to the Polytechnic Institution, 
 because we saw nothing in London, — nothing in 
 
139 
 
 England, half so good. We should have men- 
 tioned that the locks for holding water in canals^ 
 shew the method of passing vessels up an inclined 
 plane by the resistance of her own paddles, as is 
 practised by those vessels that go up the American 
 rapids. Here also are good and very correct 
 models of a building slip, and of the launching 
 slip, with the ship^s cradle, bilgeways, &c., and also 
 a dry dock with improved gates for opening and 
 shutting by improved machinery ; also of a graving 
 slip, with the means of hauling ships up. There 
 is also on a pier, a model of the masting sheers, 
 by which a very few men could lift with compara- 
 tive ease the largest ship^s masts, and put them in 
 their places. Here is a powerful electric machine, 
 and a powerful voltaic battery by which severe 
 electrical shocks can be given. We could say 
 much more of the many good things that we with 
 so much pleasure saw here, but our time will not 
 permit us. Oh, how much do we wish to see 
 something of this kind commenced at Bombay. 
 It must not be looked upon as a toy or as an idle 
 lounge to kill time ; here every human being, let 
 his taste be what it may, must be pleased, must 
 be improved. And we consider the greatest 
 advantage of such an institution, to be the saving 
 of much valuable time. Many men have spent 
 years of their lives in attempting to discover 
 perpetual motion, and have sacrificed money and 
 labour to make a machine to go for ever, without 
 
140 
 
 stopping, when if they had had access to such a 
 place as this, they would soon have learnt by inspect- 
 ing good, correct, highly finished working models, 
 that no such thing as perpetual motion can ever 
 exist. And yet, perhaps, some of the most im- 
 portant mechanical improvements that have been 
 made_, have been discovered by chance, by in- 
 dividuals who have been perseveringly engaged in 
 pursuit of perpetual motion. And this is not the 
 only idle pursuit that has been beneficial to man- 
 kind, some two centuries since, very many of the 
 cleverest of men had an idea that there was a way 
 of making gold, and that certain chemical com- 
 pounds would produce a substance to be called 
 the philosopher's stone, and that this when founds 
 would enable the possessor to produce gold at 
 will. This idea induced people to go to very 
 great expenses to endeavour to discover a thing 
 that had no existence, but in trying to discover 
 what was not, they made some of the most im- 
 portant and grand discoveries in chemistry. Again, 
 from a very early period of society, there were 
 persons who pretended to judge of the influence 
 of the stars, and to foretell coming events from 
 the motion of them, and of the starts aspects to 
 each other ; these people were called astrologers, 
 and if they were told the moment precisely that an 
 individual was born, they produced what they 
 called his horoscope, and thus by their science, 
 called astrology, they pretended to decide what his 
 
141 
 
 propensities were to be, and what his future 
 destiny. Ridiculous as this may appear, it was 
 believed by the learned, the great, the good, and 
 the wise. And what was the fact, whilst persons 
 were devoting their whole time to an idle pursuit, 
 they were doing very great good, for whilst they 
 were themselves in the idlest of all idle chaces, 
 they were making rapid strides in improving the 
 most beautiful of all studies, the science of astrono- 
 my. And thus we see how the great and good 
 God produces from the follies of mankind, improve- 
 ments to benefit the whole world. For what can 
 be more beautiful than the idea, that poor man 
 is enabled for three or four years before hand, to 
 calculate to the very moment that such a star 
 will be visible above the horizon, if the telescope 
 is placed in such a direction. 
 
 Mechanics^ Institution. — We should not 
 forget to mention, that for the improvement of the 
 working classes in almost every large town in the 
 kingdom, there are mechanics^ institutions, where 
 a large proportion of the respectable inhabitants 
 unite with the day-labouring and subscribe sums 
 not exceeding ten shillings a year, more usually 
 two shillings per quarter, and hire or build a large 
 room where lectures upon those subjects con- 
 nected with mechanics, or the principles of nature, 
 are delivered, very frequently, either by clever 
 gentlemen in their neighbourhoods, or by pro- 
 fessional lecturers hired from London. Geology, 
 
142 
 
 Electricity, Hydraulics, Hydrostatics, Pneumatics, 
 and the powers of the microscope thus become 
 familiar to them all. Persons in the first instance 
 present books, and as their funds allow, they 
 make purchases, until in a very short time, they 
 get extensive collections of first rate books. We 
 have heard our friend John Fincham, Esq., who 
 is a great encourager of these institutions, lecture 
 to the Chatham Mechanics^ Institution, and we are 
 perfectly satisfied that these institutions are calcu- 
 lated to do much good, as working men here become 
 acquainted with correct data, as regards moving 
 powers, the steam engine_, &c., and many, very 
 many will be enabled to carry out any little ex- 
 perimental improvements from hints which they 
 may hear at mechanics^ institutions. At all events, 
 it will afford to such as wish to become clever 
 men an opportunity to do so, as the books which 
 they can get at these places could not be procured 
 by them unless such institutions were in existence, 
 and many a young working man is kept out of 
 bad company by having the lecture room and the 
 library of a mechanics' institution to resort to, in- 
 stead of being the visitor of the drinking room of 
 a public house. We heard there was much pre- 
 judice against their being established, but the 
 advantages of them have at last become so ap- 
 parent and obvious, that nearly every one now 
 thinks they are a blessing to the class of people 
 for whom they were intended. 
 
143 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 BAZAARS. LAYCOCK^S DAIRY. — MARKETS. 
 
 There are in London several bazaars for the sale 
 of trinkets, cutlery^ artificial flowers, &C.5 there is 
 an extensive one in Soho Square, King Street 
 Bazaar, Portman Square, and the Pantheon in Ox- 
 ford Street, they are very well conducted^ and as we 
 consider the Pantheon in Oxford Street, to be 
 superior to all the rest, we shall endeavour to 
 describe it. You enter first a hall where there is 
 sculpture and a great many vases for sale, and you 
 then go up a wide stair case to a most extensive 
 valuable and beautiful collection of oil painting ; 
 here are to be found some very magnificent pictures 
 occupying three spacious rooms, and in a very 
 large gallery, as well as upon the ground floor, are 
 to be purchased at stalls kept by well dressed and 
 most orderly behaved young ladies, almost every 
 fancy article that is to be procured in any of the 
 shops in London. Here is to be found jewellery^ 
 
144 
 
 music^ china work boxes, tastefully made chil- 
 dren's frocks, all sorts of children's toys, and 
 waxen flowers, so natural, you cannot tell them 
 from nature — you are not importuned to purchase 
 — you walk about as long as you please — look at 
 every thing, and if you ask the prices, have a 
 civil answer. Many of the young women who 
 keep these stalls are very handsome. We should 
 think there are nearly two hundred of them. 
 There is here also a magnificent conservatory, 
 where beautiful plants and nosegays of flowers 
 may be purchased, and here flower seeds and 
 flower roots may be obtained, and a person may 
 be quite satisfied from the respectabihty of the 
 proprietor, that all the things are good of their 
 sorts. There is no charge made for admission. 
 
 We spoke of the Adelaide Gallery being in the 
 Lowther Arcade. It is a very beautiful erection. 
 It is two hundred and forty-five feet long. It is 
 twenty feet wide, and is thirty-five feet high. It 
 is a covered paved promenade lighted by skylights 
 in the roof, and the shops on either side, which 
 are all uniform as to size, are well stocked with 
 jewellery, millinery, cutlery, perfumery, toys and 
 fancy articles. It is a very nice place to walk in in 
 the heat of the day, and next to the bazaars, one 
 of the prettiest sights of the sort in London ; when 
 it is not much thronged with people, the perspec- 
 tive from one end of the Arcade to the other is 
 very beautiful. There is also an Arcade of a 
 
145 
 
 similar nature in Piccadilly, called Burlington, 
 which perhaps is frequented by more fashionable 
 people for a lounge^ but it is in its nature so 
 much like the Lowther Arcade, that a further 
 description would be useless. 
 
 Laycock's Dairy. — Accompanied by our 
 friend Mr. Baldock, of Chatham, we paid a visit 
 to Thomas Flighty Esq., of Highbury Terrace, 
 who is the proprietor of Laycock^s dairy, Isling- 
 ton, near London ; and which place we visited, and 
 were shown and explained every part of it. It is 
 certainly one of the curiosities of London, and is 
 a most valuable and extensive property. 
 
 There are fourteen acres surrounded by a high 
 wall, and which is nearly covered with buildings 
 for the several purposes required. And first there 
 are upwards of four hundred cows^ which are kept 
 for supplying milk, and twice in each day, viz. at 
 three o^clock in the morning, and at noon they are 
 milked by women. The whole of the cows are 
 kept in stalls^ and the food is varied as much 
 as possible. Mangel wurzel, a large species of 
 beet root^ is their chief food, and then they have 
 turnips^ cabbages^ carrots and clover, when they 
 do not continue to give a large quantity of milk ; 
 oil cake and other things are given to fatten them 
 for sale at Smithfield market. All the cows were 
 fine animals, sleek as race horses, and they are 
 curried with a comb every day. As it is quite 
 necessary to have four hundred cows to milk each 
 
 H 
 
146 
 
 day^ they are obliged to keep more than that 
 number on the premises^ and there is a hospital 
 for the cows to have their calves in^ and where 
 any that are unwell have medical treatment. 
 
 The milk is taken into a dairy as soon as milked, 
 which place is kept most scrupulously clean, being 
 scoured with hot w^ater, and every thing in it twice 
 every day. It is supposed, in London, that more 
 than eight million gallons of milk are used in a 
 year. There are immense pits for the reception 
 of grains, which is a great article of food for 
 the cows. Grains are the refuse of malt after beer 
 has been made from it, and we were surprised 
 to learn, that if covered from the air, they would 
 keep good, and fit for the cows to eat for seven 
 years. There must be an immense capital locked 
 up, as each of the cows are worth more than 
 twenty pounds, and the proprietor is obliged to 
 have four farms, to supply all the varied green food 
 that is required. He has a great number of horses 
 constantly fetching grains, and the daily food re- 
 quired, and to cart away the manure. He has 
 also numerous male and female servants about the 
 premises to pay. 
 
 Whilst inspecting the dairy, we were forcibly 
 reminded of Bombay, for from a farm of Mr. 
 Flight^s, at Enfield, a number of oxen arrived, 
 bringing the turnips for daily consumption, and 
 one of them requiring to have a shoe put on, we 
 went to witness that operation, and here was a 
 
147 
 
 great improvement upon the plan pursued at 
 Bombay. The animal, instead of being thrown 
 down^ was placed in a frame in which he stood 
 upright, and in a few seconds^ he was secured 
 therein by straps^ and he was shod quite as readily 
 as a quiet horse. Attached to the dairy within 
 the walls, are buildings appropriated as layers for 
 cattle, and where when they have been driven 
 some distance to market, they rest for a day or 
 two before they are exposed for sale. A large 
 proportion of the oxen that come by steam from 
 Ireland and Scotland, are placed here for a few 
 days, where they are rested, sheltered, fed, and 
 abundantly supplied with good water. The charge " 
 for sheltering and feeding is very moderate, and 
 upon Sundays it is not unusual for upwards of 
 two thousand animals to be within the walls, and 
 upon some occasions, even two thousand five 
 hundred have been here. We were much pleased 
 with our visit to this place, never having seen 
 cows in such numbers, and in such fine order 
 before. When we name Sunday as the day when 
 such numbers of sheep and oxen are to be found 
 reposing here, — it is right we should explain why. 
 It is that they may be ready for Smithfield 
 market, which is held every Monday. It is as- 
 serted that the carcases of different cattle consumed 
 in one year in London, is as follows : — Oxen and 
 cows, 110,000; sheep, 770,000; lambs, 250,000; 
 calves, 50,000 pigs, 250,000, and that their in- 
 
148 
 
 dividual average weight is as follows : — Oxen 
 (each) 800 lbs.; calves^ 140 lbs. ; sheep, 80 lbs. ; 
 lambs, 50 lbs. It may be as well for us to say 
 here, that the cattle in Smithfield are all sold alive. 
 There are daily, large markets for slaughtered 
 animals in Newgate market and at Whitechapel. 
 There is also daily, a large fish market at Billings- 
 gate and Hungerford. At Billinsgate alone it is 
 said, that 120,000 tons of fish are sold within 
 the year, and of the following sorts : — Salmon, 
 45,446 ; turbot, 87,558 ; cod, 441,138 ; herrings, 
 3,366,400 ; maid, plaice, skate, sprats, and soles, 
 115,215 bushels; haddock, 90,604; mackerel, 
 482,492 ; lobsters, 3,076,700 ; whiting, 1,954,600 ; 
 eels, 1,500 weight; crabs, 500,000. 
 
 The great vegetable market of London, is 
 situated in Covent Garden, and it amply repays 
 any one for paying it a visit. It has forced vege- 
 tables and fruit all the year round, and the prices 
 that are paid for these forced things and early 
 flowers exceed belief. All the fruits of England, 
 when in their proper season, may be bought in 
 London, cheaper than on the spot where grown. 
 As from there being a certain sale in London, it is 
 preferred to send it where it is sure to sell in pre- 
 ference to selling it with difficulty and uncertainty 
 in the country. 
 
 The annual produce of the garden grounds, 
 cultivated for supplying the London markets 
 with vegetables and fruit, is said to amount to 
 
149 
 
 £1^045,000. There are capital poultry markets 
 in London^ of which Leadenhall and Newgate are 
 the best. The quantity of poultry alone without 
 game^ annually consumed in London, amounts to 
 £80,000. The annual consumption of butter is 
 11,000 tons, and of cheese 13,000 tons. 
 
150 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 NATIONAL AND CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 
 
 Greenwich Hospital. — We paid a visit to 
 this place^ which is about five miles east south- 
 east from London. It has a royal park 3 and 
 from One Tree Hill, on a clear day, the view of 
 London and the river Thames is most command- 
 ing. Here old worn-out sailors, called pensioners, 
 are to be found with very good spying glasses, 
 which they offer to visitors, who usually give them 
 a few pence for their civility. Greenwich is the 
 great resort of persons whose occupations will not 
 allow them much time for recreation ; for every 
 half-hour steam boats leave London and carry 
 passengers at sixpence per head^ and the railroad 
 carriages start every quarter of an hour, so that a 
 very few minutes convey persons to a spot where 
 pure air and a delightful park can be eiyoyed. 
 Adjoining Greenwich Park is Blackheath, from 
 which very beautiful views are to be seen. Black- 
 heath is nearly surrounded by very beautiful 
 houses belonging to the nobility and merchants ; 
 
151 
 
 and Queen Caroline, the wife of George the 
 Fourth^ had a house here. Morden College^ 
 which was founded by Sir John Morden^ a Turkey 
 merchant^ more than a century ago, is for decayed 
 merchants, who receive a sum of money sufficient 
 to maintain them, and have handsome apartments 
 allowed them. But the great object of attraction 
 at Greenwich is the Royal Naval Hospital for old 
 worn-out and crippled sailors, who are all dressed 
 in old-fashioned- cut blue coats and blue knee 
 breeches with worsted stockings, and three-cor- 
 nered cocked hats. They are here well fed, have 
 lirst-rate medical attendance, and in their cabins, 
 or wards, have good sleeping berths. The pen- 
 sioners mess, as it is called, together ; that is, they 
 take their meals at the same table. There are 
 some hundreds of them ; and it is most gratifying 
 to see these men, who have been fighting the 
 battles of their country, some of whom have lost 
 their arms, some their legs, and others an eye, 
 thus bountifully provided for by their countrymen. 
 In addition to the inmates there are a great num- 
 ber of sailors, called out-pensioners, who receive 
 quarterly a few pounds as a reward for their ser* 
 vices at sea. On the site of the Royal Hospital was 
 the residence of some of the British monarchs — 
 Queen Ehzabeth lived here. It is a beautiful 
 building ; the front, by the side of the river, is 
 eight hundred and sixty-five feet long, and has 
 two superb domes, which may be seen for 
 
152 
 
 several miles. It was founded by William tlie 
 Thirds in one thousand six hundred and ninety- 
 four. In the Painted Hall is a capital collection 
 of pictures connected with naval subjects, many 
 of which were presented by George the Fourth, 
 and represent the sea fights of the Nile, Trafalgar^ 
 and others; and here are pictures of Nelson, 
 Hardy, and of all the great admirals and captains 
 connected with heroic actions. In Greenwich 
 Park is the Royal Observatory, where astrono- 
 mical observations are made, and where the calcu- 
 lations are made for publishing the nautical alma- 
 nacks, which are prepared for the three forth- 
 coming years, and show the hour of the sun^s 
 rising, the changes of the moon, and the position 
 the stars will be in for the next three years ; and 
 this is done for the purpose of enabling persons 
 in command of ships to tell by observations, and 
 these tables, which latitude they are in. This is a 
 grand institution, most worthy of England ; and 
 as correct time to an instant is of the utmost 
 importance to these calculations, chronometers 
 that keep most perfect time are kept here in great 
 numbers, made by all persons who feel disposed 
 to send them for competition, and the most cor- 
 rect receive rewards every year. By observation, 
 and by the best of watches and clocks, they here 
 obtain correct mean time ; and, to enable all ships 
 to have their chronometers exact in their time 
 w^ith Greenwich time, at one o^clock precisely 
 
153 
 
 every day an immense black ball, which has pre- 
 viously been hoisted to the top of a building 
 visible for a great distance is dropped, and all 
 watches and clocks are thus proved in their rate 
 of keeping time. To those who are unacquainted 
 with navigation this appears to be a mere toy; 
 but every man who is aware of the difficulties of 
 working a ship in long nights, when they have no- 
 thing but stars to guide them and tell them where 
 they are, the value and importance of this obser- 
 vatory will be appreciated. Yes, England is 
 indeed a great nation; she publishes charts for 
 every part of the known sea, where the shoals, 
 the rocks, and the currents are pointed out, and 
 the latitude and longitude are described ; and this 
 Nautical Almanack completes the good work. 
 
 Guy's Hospital. — We had an opportunity, 
 through the kindness of a friend, of paying a visit 
 to Guy's Hospital, one of those grand public 
 institutions for the reception of the sick and 
 hurt poor; and where all persons who have 
 served their apprenticeship to learn the healing 
 art, are allowed to attend to see the operations 
 performed, to see the sick prescribed for, and to 
 see anatomical operations performed upon the 
 dead, to teach them how to do such things to the 
 living ; and we also saw the anatomical museum 
 in it. It is a splendid establishment. This noble 
 charity has been conducted in such a manner as 
 to restore health and freedom from pain to a 
 H 2 
 
151 
 
 large number of persons. The average quantity 
 of in and out-patients is from four to five thou- 
 sand annually. The wards for the patients are 
 very neat and in beautiful order ; separate wards 
 are of course provided for the males and females. 
 All the inmates seemed^ as far as they could 
 be, happy and comfortable, the number of whom 
 varies from five hundred to five hundred and 
 fifty. In a vault in the hospital are deposited 
 the remains of Mr. Thomas Guy, the founder, 
 who built it in the year 1722, at an expense 
 of £18,493 16^., and about two years after 
 he died, leaving for the purposes of this hospital 
 the sum of £219,499. There was also the re- 
 mains of a Mr. Hunt, who gave a large sum 
 of money toward this institution. The building 
 is in a quadrangular form, having a middle and 
 two side wings and an excellent yard in the 
 front, in the midst of which stands the monument 
 of the benevolent founder. The hospital, the 
 museum, and the buildings for the officers, &c., 
 stand upon five and a half acres of ground. 
 Oh, happy England ! possessing hospitals where 
 the poorest persons receive as much, or more 
 attention than even the rich can command 
 when labouring under sickness, or meeting with 
 accidents ; in London only there are several 
 of these. There is St. Thomas's, which con- 
 tains nineteen wards and four hundred and 
 seventy-four beds for in- door patients ; St. 
 
155 
 
 Bartholomew's Hospital, where three thousand 
 seven hundred and twenty-five have been admit- 
 ted^ cured and discharged in one year. There 
 is also a large hospital at Charing Cross^, one in 
 connexion mth the London University, one called 
 London Hospital, another for the Jews; there 
 is also one for small pox, another for fever^ and 
 one for diseases of the eye, where the first-rate 
 men of the medical profession give constant 
 superintendance and advice ; one for women when 
 in parturition ; and, in fact, an establishment for 
 every species of disease. 
 
 Christ's Hospital. — We had an opportunity 
 of inspecting this excellent and useful institution 
 through our kind friend Mr. Rice of Chatham 
 Yard, who gave us a letter to the Rev. Dr. Rice, 
 Master of the Grammatical School, who intro- 
 duced us to Mr. Brooks, the Steward, and the 
 latter gentleman conducted us through the esta- 
 blishment and gave us all the information relating 
 to it. 
 
 This institution was founded in year 1552, by 
 King Edward the Sixth, and the place where it 
 now stands was a monastery called Greyfriars. 
 Charles the Second founded the GrammarSchool 
 and it has since been encreased by voluntary con- 
 tributions, eight hundred boys are here lodged, 
 fed, clothed, and liberally educated. The whole 
 expence of the establishment is from fifty to sixty 
 thousand pounds annually and the income is 
 nearly the same. The management is under the 
 
15G 
 
 hands of a number of Governors and a Treasurer^ 
 the latter is an important man, and is always a 
 member of the Court of Aldermen. The Go- 
 vernors have the privilege of recommending a 
 boy to be admitted, once in three years, and any 
 one might have that privilege by once paying a 
 sum of five hundred pounds towards the insti- 
 tution. 
 
 The boys wear a sort of livery consisting of 
 a long blue coat reaching to the ancles, and 
 fastened round the waist with a leather strap, a 
 yellow worsted petticoat worn underneath, yellow 
 stockings, and a small black cap, which they very 
 rarely wear, and we have often wondered when we 
 saw the boys walking the streets of London with 
 their heads uncovered how they escape catch- 
 ing cold. The uniform we think is very pic- 
 turesque, and more so than the ordinary dress in 
 England ; there is something very pleasing to the 
 eye, and indicating gravity and seriousness in it. 
 
 The boys we were informed are verj^ proud of 
 their dress on account of its connection with the 
 institution, and from the circumstance of the blue 
 colour of the garment, they are commonly called 
 " Blue Coat Boys and the Hospital " Blue Coat 
 School.^' 
 
 The principal entrance to the premises is from 
 Newgate Street, and except the New Hall that 
 was built about ten years since, the buildings are 
 very irregular. 
 
 We were first shewn into the kitchen and we 
 
157 
 
 found it in very high order and cleanliness ; the 
 boys are allowed bread and butter and milk for 
 breakfast, meat and bread for dinner five days 
 in the week, plum pudding, bread and butter 
 one day, and pea soup and bread one day in the 
 week, and they have table beer to drink as much 
 as they like at dinner time, and for supper they 
 are allowed bread and cheese ; every boy has 
 equal share of provisions and the daily allowance 
 made for them is more than they can eat, and we 
 were told that many poor people were daily fed 
 with their families from the fragments, or what 
 was left by the boys. Great care is also taken 
 for proper management and economy in this 
 department. The articles supplied by tradesmen 
 such as bread, butter, cheese, &c. are the very 
 best of their sort, and the food is prepared with as 
 much attention and cleanliness as in any private 
 family. Ten hundred weight of cheese alone was 
 consumed in a fortnight. There were storehouses 
 attached to the kitchen where the provisions are 
 deposited and daily served out. 
 
 The boys rise at six in the morning, take their 
 breakfast at seven, dinner at half past twelve and 
 go to bed after supper at seven, they are allowed 
 to go out of the school every other Wednesday to 
 their friends, besides the vacations at Midsummer 
 and Easter holidays, and every Saturday and every 
 other Wednesday are half-holidays, but they must 
 remain within the limits of the premises. 
 
158 
 
 We were next conducted to a large room at 
 one corner of which was a large boiler^ and two 
 rows of troughs in the middle were arranged com- 
 cunicating with it, by means of a number of pipes 
 for conveying hot water and a similar communi- 
 cation with a small reservoir at the other end for 
 cold water ; this was the room where the boys 
 washed themselves, and so excellent was the 
 arrangement that each boy had a separate cake of 
 soap, separate taps of water hot and cold, and a 
 towel, so that every possible care for their health 
 and comforts was taken as well as for their educa- 
 tion : there are four such rooms, each capable of 
 admitting a hundred boys to wash at once. Their 
 sleeping wards were also very neat and clean, 
 bedsteads of iron were placed in range with a 
 small chest attached to each to place their things 
 in, the rooms are very airy and contain fifty beds, 
 which are all numbered, and their towels num- 
 bered accordingly and hung on hooks bearing 
 corresponding figures, so that each boy has his 
 separate towel. There are sixteen such wards 
 and a wardrobe attached to each of them, where 
 the Sunday clothes and clean things are deposited, 
 in fact every one is placed upon a happy equality, 
 so that there is no complaints, or no jealousy 
 among the boys, on the contrary we found them 
 as happy and as comfortable as possible. 
 
 An infirmary is maintained for the boys ; 
 when they are ill, they have medical aid and all 
 
159 
 
 necessary wants are supplied and the comfort of 
 the patient is most scrupulously studied, in so 
 much that it would be morally impossible for 
 them to be better looked after even under parental 
 care, — however parents are allowed to have their 
 children home in case of sickness if they pre- 
 fer it. 
 
 At half past twelve the bell for the dinner was 
 rung, and we saw the hall which is a large and 
 magnificent room full of all the boys, and narrow 
 tables with benches were ranged along. In the 
 middle against the wall was a pulpit from which 
 the chaplain said grace before the meal, and then 
 pieces of bread and butter were handed rounds 
 and the pudding soon followed, each boy had a 
 knife and fork, a wooden spoon and a wooden 
 plate in which he has his pudding or meat, earth- 
 enware is not used here because of economy ; they 
 have their milk in wooden bowls, and the soup 
 and meat are also conveyed from the kitchen to 
 the hall in wooden pails and troughs, they also 
 have the beer in wooden vessels, all of which were 
 remarkably clean, so that it is not at all unpleasant 
 to eat or drink out of them ; we also saw that 
 many of the boys could not eat all they had 
 which was a proof that they had quite enough. 
 We were very much pleased in seeing eight hun- 
 dred children in one room, it is a very beautiful 
 sight. 
 
 A splendid and large organ is placed in the 
 
160 
 
 hall upon which the music master played and 
 many of the boys sang what they call an anthem 
 after dinner. 
 
 We were very much pleased and struck with 
 the order that generally prevailed throughout 
 dinner^ there was no noise, no irregularities, and 
 every one seemed to mind his own ; our appear- 
 ance and costume excited a great deal of curiosity 
 among them, and they generally take a delight in 
 seeing a stranger who comes to inspect their 
 school. We should have mentioned that as the 
 boys are not allowed to go off the premises there 
 are two shops on the spot containing pastry, sta- 
 tionary, &c., for them to spend any little money 
 their friends allow them, these shops are con- 
 ducted by the families of beadles or porters of the 
 establishment. 
 
 We shall now say something about the educa- 
 tion, there are separate departments in the school, 
 the boys are admitted about the age of ten, before 
 which in a branch school kept at Hertford, about 
 twenty miles from London, they are taught the 
 first elements of the language and then transferred 
 here, where they remain till they are fifteen, within 
 which time they have a thorough good mercantile 
 education, consisting of the English language. 
 Arithmetic, Geometry, and if the boys are atten- 
 tive they are by this time sufficiently versed to 
 carry on business. 
 
 A certain number of boys are carried through 
 
161 
 
 higher branches of mathematics^ algebra^ Euclid, 
 trigonometry^ geography^ greek^ latin, astronomy, 
 and are taught navigation. The parents of these 
 youths are bound to provide a ship for them, 
 either in the mercantile or in the royal navy, and 
 as soon as they leave school, they are obliged to 
 go through a severe course of examination at the 
 Trinity House, and then go to sea; thus this 
 useful establishment supplies the wants of the 
 merchants and the admiralty, by sending forth a 
 number of highly qualified and proficient officers to 
 navigate ships, and such officers are eagerly sought 
 after, many of them have done great honour to 
 the school. The celebrated naval commander. Sir 
 Cloudesley Shovel, was educated here. 
 
 There are others who are called Grecians^ they 
 prepare for the Universities at Oxford and Cam- 
 bridge, and receive much better education than 
 those intended for sea; they generally leave the 
 school at the age of twenty, and after going 
 through the University education, they are ap- 
 pointed ministers of the church of England. 
 
 The Grecians have higher privileges, they dine 
 at their own wards, and have separate rooms to 
 themselves to study in. 
 
 Our countrymen will now see the utility of this in- 
 stitution,forwhatcanbemore conducive to afather^s 
 happiness than to see his son settled at this place, 
 where he is fed, clothed, liberally educated, and 
 every comfort for his body and mind studied, and 
 that without the least expense to \he father ; it is 
 
162 
 
 a blessings and we earnestly hope that its patrons 
 may increase and its inmates may become more 
 and more every year. 
 
 The internal government of the establishment, 
 together with the economy and the regulation of 
 it, was an object of great admiration to us. The 
 behaviour of the students was most praiseworthy, 
 and reflects the highest credit on them. We 
 have in conclusion to return our thanks to the 
 Rev. Dr. Rice, the mathematical master and the 
 steward, for their attention to us, and we cannot 
 refrain hoping, that our countrymen, after know- 
 ing the advantage of public education, will be 
 actuated to devote more time and labour to the 
 bringing up of their children, and to get up by sub- 
 scriptions more schools on the plan of the native 
 education institution at Bombay. 
 
 There are a great many other schools in the 
 metropolis, such as Westminster school, St. PauPs 
 school, Foundling Hospital, all of which have 
 been founded by some benevolent person, and 
 have since been supported by voluntary con- 
 tributions. 
 
 The National schools are about forty-three in 
 London, including the suburbs, educating twelve 
 thousand children (boys and girls) and we under- 
 stand that there are about four hundred of them 
 all over the country, to diffuse the blessings of 
 education among the poor, and where students of 
 all feelings and persuasions are admitted. 
 
 Sunday schools are established for teaching such 
 
163 
 
 children as are employed in trade, and consequently 
 have no leisure except on Sundays. 
 
 The teachers visit the children at their homes 
 in week-days, to impress their parents with the 
 necessity of inculcating sound principles into their 
 minds, we are informed that upwards of seventy 
 thousand poor children are taught upon this 
 principle, in our opinion a most praiseworthy 
 one. 
 
 There are also numerous private charitable in- 
 stitutions for the education of the poor, and where 
 a certain number of children are taught reading, 
 writing, arithmetic, &c., to a certain extent. These 
 are principally founded by benevolent individuals 
 who have left large amounts of money towards 
 the maintenance of these useful objects. 
 
 It would be almost impossible for us to give 
 an account of all the educational places in 
 London in our limited work, but we assure our 
 countrymen, that there is perhaps no country 
 where they are so numerous as in England, and 
 happy is the country, which can boast of possess- 
 ing them. 
 
164 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. 
 
 We copy from a periodical work, called Cham- 
 bers's Edinburgh Journal, the following account 
 of the British Commons House of Parliament : — 
 The House of Commons consists of six hun- 
 dred and fifty-eight members, viz. sixteen 
 barons of the Cinque Ports, eighty knights of 
 the shire for England, twelve for Wales, thirty 
 for Scotland, and sixty-four for Ireland ; and 
 " three hundred and forty-three burgesses for 
 England, twelve for Wales, fifteen for Scotland, 
 and thirty-six for Ireland. By law these mem- 
 bers, in all cases, ought to be elected by the 
 people without any undue influence either from 
 " the crown, the peerage, or any other power. 
 
 Anciently, in the Saxon times, the affairs of the 
 " kingdom were regulated in national councils, 
 and such councils were by law to be held twice 
 in every year ; but the Commons of England, 
 as represented by knights, citizens, and bur- 
 gesses, were not specifically named until the 
 
165 
 
 latter years of Henry the Third's reign, when 
 the brave Simon de Montfort, Earl of Leicester^ 
 caused them to be duly summoned for the pur- 
 pose of employing their influence against the 
 arbitrary domination of the crown. 
 " In the fourth of Edward the Third (chapter 
 14) it was enacted that a Parliament should be 
 
 " holden every year twice, and more often if need 
 be ; and this continued to be the statute law, 
 although frequently violated by our sovereigns, 
 
 " until after the restoration of Charles the Se- 
 
 " cond, when an act was passed for the assembly 
 of and holding Parliaments once in three years 
 at least, which act was confirmed by William and 
 
 " Mary soon after the glorious Revolution of 
 
 " 1688. 
 
 In the first year of George the First, the 
 then existing Parliament most treacherously, 
 under the influence of the crown, enacted that 
 " they should sit for seven years. Many attempts 
 " have since been made to restore triennial par- 
 " liaments, which every judicious writer on con- 
 stitutional authority conceives to be the surest 
 safeguard of a people^s liberties, but hitherto 
 without success ; and our Parliaments now sit 
 for any period not exceeding a septennial dura- 
 " tion, at the will of the ministry. 
 
 " When a member speaks he addresses the 
 Speaker only, and is not allowed to speak a 
 
166 
 
 second time during the debate_, unless in 
 reply (if he was the mover of the question), or 
 in answer to personal reflections, or in a com- 
 " mittee of the whole house, into which the 
 " Commons frequently form themselves for greater 
 " freedom. Forty members are requisite to form 
 a house, nor can any business be commenced 
 until that number be present. The usual time 
 of taking the chair is four o'clock, p.m. The 
 Speaker is elected from the body of the mem- 
 " bers on the first day of the meeting of a new 
 parliament. In voting the words used are ^yea' 
 and ^nay\ In divisions one party always quit 
 the house, the number of each being counted by 
 " two tellers of the opposite side, but to this 
 " there is one exception, viz. in committees of the 
 " whole house, when they divide by the ^ yeas ' 
 " taking the right, and the ^ nays' the left of the 
 chair. The great measuse of a reform in Par- 
 liament, which is now, so happily for Great 
 Britain, a part of the law of the land, bids fair 
 " to remedy all those abuses in the representation 
 which had previously rendered the proceedings 
 " of this house the most disgraceful and inconsis- 
 tent of any portion of the legislature. It is 
 most probable that after having thus revivified 
 itself, one of its earliest acts will be a return to 
 the old and more salutary arrangement of trien- 
 " nial, if not annual elections.^^ 
 
167 
 
 Thus far we copy from the Journal to which we 
 have alluded^ and it was written directly after the 
 passing of the Reform Bill. 
 
 Before the passing of the Reform Bill^ at very 
 many places, the persons who were owners of the 
 houses and land in the small towns^ called 
 Boroughs^ used to make their tenants vote for 
 such persons as they wished to have chosen 
 members of parliament. And the thing at last 
 became so public that such places were called 
 Pocket Boroughs J and a rich Jew for many years 
 was the owner of so many of these places that he 
 returned six or seven members at leasts receiving 
 very large sums of money from those who wished 
 to be returned to Parliament. It was notorious 
 that Dukes and Lords members of the House 
 of Lords at that time could^ and did cause to be 
 returned more than half the members of the 
 commons^ thus destroying the independence of 
 that third estate, as the persons put in by Noble- 
 men were of course obliged to vote as they were 
 desired by their patrons. Others who were in 
 want of money sold their seats thus ; in order to 
 meet the pockets of those who could not pay so 
 large a sum as was required for the whole session, 
 which some times lasted six years, but which was 
 always uncertain as to its duration_, an annual 
 payment used to be made of one thousand pounds, 
 or one thousand two hundred pounds for the 
 privilege of being returned. 
 
168 
 
 Now this was considered a very bad system 
 and things continued in this state for many years^ 
 until petition after petition having been disre- 
 garded, the people almost unanimously declared 
 they would have a Reform or Revolution. Re- 
 form was therefore conceded, but as the parties in 
 the House of Commons became so nearly equal 
 that ten votes was considered a large majority out 
 of six hundred and fifty- eight members ; and as 
 this was not considered sufficient to carry on the 
 busi'ness of the country, and as the party out of 
 power thought if they could get eight or ten more 
 members, they should be ministers of the crown ; 
 every place that became vacant was contested as if 
 a matter of life or death. And it is said^ the base 
 and grovelling men of both parties did not vote in 
 the early part of the day, and when thirty or forty 
 votes would win an election, thirty,forty, and even fifty 
 pounds a piece have been given to that number of 
 of people to sell their votes, their honor, and their 
 consciences. This becoming generally known, it 
 is now quite usual for a large proportion of voters 
 at elections to refuse to promise their votes, that 
 they may keep themselves, as it is thought, in the 
 market for the highest bidder. 
 
 A friend of ours who has taken a very active 
 part in elections, informs us, that he has found 
 almost always those parties who have not promised 
 either party, were of that description of people 
 who wished to take money for their votes. But 
 
169 
 
 this is called bribery, and there is a heavy penalty- 
 attached to it. And why is it not prevented ? It 
 is from the heavy penalty that it is not more fre- 
 quently discovered. The party who gives the 
 bribe, and the person who receives it, are subject 
 to fine and imprisonment, and can never vote 
 again. And if the person who gives the money can 
 be proved to be an agent of the person who is thus 
 elected to be a member of parliament, the mem- 
 ber so elected cannot continue to sit in the house, 
 neither can he be returned for that parliament ; 
 so that the Reform Bill^ although it has removed 
 some of the objections which formerly were urged 
 against the elections, yet from its having admitted 
 a much larger proportion of poor people, bribery 
 is more open, more common, and higher sums are 
 given than before. This will only continue to be 
 carried on to its present extent, whilst parties 
 continue so nearly equal ; whenever either party 
 can command a majority of forty, votes will fall 
 in the market ; although it will be a long time 
 perhaps before it is quite done away. Yet, when 
 many seats are forfeited — when many have been 
 imprisoned — when many have been fined^ and 
 when such people are held up to public execration, 
 this imperfection will be removed. 
 
 But notwithstanding all this the British con- 
 stitution is acknowledged to be the best in 
 the known world, and a perfect model to be imi- 
 tated by others for the legislation of their coun- 
 
 I 
 
170 
 
 tries. It affords the same protection to the life 
 and property of the peasant as to the nobleman, 
 and makes them both equal in the eyes of Law 
 and Justice. We may observe that it is not 
 formed by despotism or by the whim of great 
 men, but it is the result of a long experience, as 
 all defects have been from time to time consi- 
 dered and remedied in such a manner as to im- 
 prove, advance, and secure the happiness of the 
 people, and by this mode gradual changes were 
 effected and the system has come to that per- 
 fection as to excite approbation even from their 
 enemies. 
 
 We have described the House of Commons, but 
 strictly speaking the British Parliament consists 
 of the Sovereign in his Royal capacity, and the 
 three estates of the realm, viz. first, the lords 
 spiritual, second, the lords temporal, both of 
 whom form the House of Lords, and third, the 
 knights, citizens and burgesses who form the Lower 
 House, or the House of Commons. The whole 
 Parliament sat together originally but about the 
 reign of Edward the Third, the Lords and Com- 
 mons separated and have from that time held their 
 parliamentary meetings apart. 
 
 The House of Lords at the present time is 
 thus composed, three princes of the royal blood 
 (dukes,) twenty-one dukes, twenty marquisses, 
 one hundred and thirteen earls, twenty viscounts, 
 two hundred and nine barons, sixteen peers of 
 
171 
 
 Scotland, twenty-eight peers of Ireland, twenty- 
 four archbishops and bishops of England, and 
 four archbishops and bishops of Ireland ; and 
 how have these peers who form this House 
 of Lords been made, and what are they? In 
 the earliest ages persons, who were possessed 
 of much land, kept about their houses a great 
 many persons called retainers who followed them 
 to fight, and upon occasions when the king re- 
 quired a number of supporters, he used to summon 
 these land owners at a particular time and place 
 for their assistance and counsel ; and this was the 
 first House of Peers. After sometime admirals of 
 the navy and commanders of the army were made 
 noblemen and sent to the House of Peers, some- 
 times persons have been made noblemen for 
 lending their lives to the King, sometimes if a 
 person has been very troublesome in the House of 
 Commons and been constantly asking for inform- 
 ation not pleasant for the Government to give, 
 he has been made a nobleman ; if a minister 
 wanted votes upon a particular measure which he 
 was anxious to carry, a peerage has been con- 
 ferred upon a person to abstain from voting 
 against the question ; and if a man who held a 
 little place in the ministry was found to be of 
 no use, and would not resign his situation, he was 
 made a nobleman and sent to the House of Peers. 
 The lawyer who made himself the active instru- 
 ment of Government and hesitated not to decide 
 
172 
 
 always as the ministry wished him, was made a 
 nobleman and sent into the House of Peers; a 
 very great many of the House of Lords were 
 make peers because they were owners of Pocket 
 Boroughs and could return several members to the 
 House of Commons. 
 
 In the reign of James the First, he was so very 
 poor that he allowed those who felt disposed to 
 buy, actually to buy peerages with money ; in the 
 reign of George the First Sir Robert Walpole, 
 (first minister,) openly and notoriously bought 
 votes whenever he wished to carry any measure, 
 many he bought with money, several he bought 
 by making them Peers. Mind we only speak 
 of these things as we gather them from printed 
 histories of the House of Peers ; it is well known by 
 almost every English person, when and for what 
 every peer was made ; if our journal would admit 
 we could name parties who have been made for all 
 the causes we have stated, and it may be asked of 
 us, thus composed how do they act ? and what 
 manner of people are these peers ? We will tell 
 you it is very many years since that some of these 
 noblemens' ancestors were made peers ; many of 
 them some centuries since, although very many 
 are within a few years, but most of them are 
 passed through two or three generations since they 
 have been enrolled, and from their ancestor's 
 wealth they have been well educated, and several 
 of the peers have been men who by their virtues 
 
173 
 
 and talents have secured- themselves the admira- 
 tion and esteem of their countrymen. (Many it is 
 true pursue a very different course of life and 
 conduct from these^,) still virtuous or vicious, 
 talented or half witted^ they as noblemen have a 
 right to vote upon all parliamentary questions, 
 and as they are not obliged to be present when 
 they vote, but are allowed to vote by proxy as it is 
 called, that is by allowing some other peer to hold 
 their written authority to vote, it is really possible 
 that a man might be deprived of his senses, be 
 a madman, be in the daily commission of the most 
 offensive crime and yet have his vote every day 
 recorded as a peer of parliament* 
 
 Is there then no bright side to this picture ? 
 Yes, the House of Lords composed as it 
 is, forms a good safeguard, and is most admira- 
 bly calculated to uphold the national honour 
 in the strict principle of justice. Times might 
 occur when the people, who return the mem- 
 bers of the house of commons, might require 
 such sudden changes in the mode of carrying on 
 the Government, such alterations in taxation, or 
 such modes of electing parliaments, as would be 
 unwise and unsafe as well as dishonest to grant ; 
 and yet the people might so order the members 
 of the House of Commons, that they would be 
 compelled to carry the measure ; then the House 
 of Lords, who are not answerable to any one for 
 their conduct^ would refuse to comply, and thus 
 
1/4 
 
 would check the measure until persons had time 
 to think coolly upon the business. There is how- 
 ever another check upon the House of Lords and 
 Commons^ because no measure that is passed by 
 the Lords and Commons^ can be brought into 
 operation without the royal assent being obtained 
 for it. 
 
 Several noblemen have been authors. Lord 
 Byron was a famous poet; Lord Holland, Lord 
 John Russell^ Lord Morpeth, Lord Mahon, Lord 
 King, and Lord Mulgrave, are well-known as 
 writers, and many others^ no doubt, whom we, of 
 course, have not heard of. 
 
 On the 25th of February, 1841, accompanied 
 by our kind friend, Thomas Baldock, Esq., who 
 procured for us admission, we paid a visit to the 
 House of Commons, and were allowed to sit in 
 the body of the house, under the Strangers' Gal- 
 lery, and were separated from the members only 
 by a slight rod of iron. We had previously paid 
 a visit to the House of Commons, through the 
 kindness of our friend. Sir Charles Forbes, but 
 as we then had nobody with us to tell us the 
 names of the members, our first visit lost much 
 of its interest. 
 
 This night was a very important night, as it 
 was to be a trial of strength between the Liberals 
 and the Conservatives ; and out of six hundred 
 and fifty-eight members, five hundred and ninety- 
 seven were that night present. The question 
 
175 
 
 under discussion was a Bill introduced by Lord 
 Morpeth^ a member of the Whig administration, 
 relative to Irish Parliamentary Voters. A Bill of 
 the same name, introduced by Lord Stanley, now 
 a Conservative, but who had been, a short time 
 since, a minister of the Whig government, was so 
 different in some of its clauses, that it appeared 
 all the Conservatives had agreed to vote against 
 the second reading of this Bill, and of course all 
 the Ministerialists were gathered together to vote 
 for it ; and almost all the sixty-one members who 
 wiere not present to vote this evening had, what is 
 called, paired off: that is, a Conservative who 
 wished to be away, agreed with a Liberal who 
 also wished to be away, that neither of them 
 would vote, and this neutralizing of each other\s 
 votes is called pairing off. We were admitted 
 into the body of the house somewhere about six 
 o'clock on Thursday evening, and there we sat 
 until half-past two on Friday morning, about 
 eight hours and a half. Shortly after we entered 
 the house an influential gentleman among the 
 Conservatives told our friend that the Ministers 
 would have a majority of six, and about eight 
 o^ clock he said another ministerial member had 
 posted home from Vienna, and that the majority 
 of votes would most probably be seven ; and to 
 prove how accurately he made his calculation, the 
 Ministers had a majority of five; one of the 
 persons who was expected to vote with the 
 Ministerialists voted with the Opposition, and 
 
176 
 
 thus accounted for the variation. The gentleman 
 in question is sometimes called the whipper-in of 
 the Conservatives, that i<s to say, he urges all to 
 vote^ knows where every member is^ and if he 
 intends to be in the house or not. This must be 
 a troublesome office. 
 
 The present House of Commons is a temporary 
 affair only. The former place where they met 
 was destroyed by fire a few years since ; and a 
 magnificent erection for the Houses of Lords and 
 Commons is now building close to the West- 
 minster Hall, and very near to the present build- 
 ing. The Speaker, who is one of the members, 
 is the chairman; he is seated in a raised chair 
 near the extremity of the large room, and where 
 he can see all the members. On his right 
 hand, on seats raised one above the other, the 
 ministers of the day and their friends sit; the 
 most influential on the upper front seat, called the 
 treasury benches, nearest to the Speaker. The 
 opposition members sit on the left hand of the 
 Speaker, and are arranged according to their im- 
 portance to their party, similar to their opponents 
 opposite. The Speaker is much disfigured by 
 wearing an immense wig of whitish hair and a 
 black gown, and, seated at a table before him, 
 are three persons similarly attired in wigs and 
 gowns, who are not members^ but are Clerks of the 
 House, and keep the records. And upon the table 
 is laid a beautiful silver gilt ornament, three or 
 four feet long, called the mace. When the house 
 
177 
 
 is in what is called Committee of the House, Mr. 
 Bernal, member for Rochester, sits at the table, 
 and the Speaker does not sit in the chair ; but 
 Mr. Bernal, who is called Chairman of the Com- 
 mittees, acts then exactly as if he was the Speaker. 
 In a raised chair, at the opposite end to the 
 Speaker, is seated Sir William Gossett, the ser- 
 jeant-at-arms, who is to preserve order below the 
 bar, and to take into custody any member, or 
 other person, upon the command of the Speaker, 
 who may do anything contrary to the usages of 
 Parliament ; when he wishes to withdraw for a 
 short time, John Clement, Esq., deputy serjeant- 
 at arms, takes his seat. When we entered the 
 house Mr. Gisborne was addressing the house 
 from the ministerial side, and there were not then 
 perhaps one hundred members in the house, and 
 then Mr. Cholmondeley answered from the oppo- 
 sition ; Mr. M. J. O^Connell replied to him, and 
 Mr. Tennent opposed the second reading, and 
 Mr. W. Roche spoke in favour of it. This was all 
 what soldiers would call light skirmishing; and 
 now what they call the big guns began to go off, 
 Mr. Shaw, the Recorder of Dublin, from the 
 opposition benches, in a very lengthy but good 
 speech, spoke against the Bill, and this called up 
 the great Irish agitator, Mr. Daniel O^Connell. 
 He spoke upwards of two hours, addressed the 
 house in most energetic terms, imploring the 
 members, for the safety and welfare of Eng- 
 
 I 2 
 
178 
 
 land and Ireland^ to do justice to Ireland/' by 
 placing her upon the same footing as England in 
 all things. He spoke most feelingly — most for- 
 cibly, and with his large figure, clear distinct 
 voice, and peculiar Irish pronunciation, he at- 
 tracted much of our attention, particularly when 
 he said very loudly, — Grant this Bill, and you 
 will take away much of my powerful influence : 
 I call upon you to disarm me by doing justice 
 to my country/^ He was very many times 
 loudly cheered by the members who sat on his 
 side of the house. 
 
 Strangers are not allowed to be present in the 
 House of Commons by the strict rules of the 
 house ; and, in fact, they are supposed never to be 
 present: but in a gallery behind the Speaker's 
 chair are forty or fifty reporters for the different 
 newspapers, who are writing down in short-hand 
 all that is said, and who go out and are relieved at 
 stated periods ; and it is a fact that although on the 
 morning of the 26th of February, the debate did not 
 close nor was the division declared, until near 
 three o'clock, every speech that was made in the 
 house was printed just as delivered, in the several 
 newspapers, and, soon after eight o'clock, was laid 
 upon the breakfast tables of the inhabitants of 
 London. The Speaker is supposed to be ignorant 
 of these people being present, as they are behind 
 him ; and the strangers admitted by the members 
 into the gallery over which we sat, and the persons 
 
179 
 
 near us who were admitted by the Speaker^ would 
 be ordered immediately out of the house if any 
 member were to rise and say^ Mr. Speaker there 
 are strangers in the house/^ he would then call 
 out^ Strangers must withdraw." And whenever 
 any member chooses to divide the house^ that is^ 
 to request persons to vote upon any subject^ all 
 visitors have to go out instantly. 
 
 We were, as a matter of course, dressed in our 
 costume ; and, sitting in the foremost seat allowed 
 for strangers^ we had a capital view of all the 
 members^ and could hear remarkably well nearly 
 everything that was said ; and consequently every 
 member could see us. We fancied once, when 
 Mr. O'Connell was speaking, that he observed and 
 alluded to us. He was looking towards us^ and 
 at that time in his most forcible manner he said. 
 
 Mind what you are doing, the eyes of the whole 
 world are upon you;" or words to that effect. 
 It might be fancy, but such was our impression at 
 the time. 
 
 After Mr. O'Connell had finished his speech. 
 Sir Robert Peel, (who was formerly first minister 
 of the crown^ and who has been for some time 
 leading man of the Tory party,) rose, and looking 
 very angrily at Mr. O'Connell, attacked him for 
 sometime for the threats that he (Mr. O^Connell) 
 had indulged in towards England ; he said He 
 " has spoken in a tone totally unworthy of the 
 " representative of the Irish people. In atone and 
 
180 
 
 temper unworthy of that character ; such as I 
 never heard. I do not complain of the high tone 
 which that honorable and learned gentleman 
 takes, but I do complain of the apparent delight 
 with which he gloated on the past animosities 
 between the two people/' Sir Robert also said^ 
 I believe you libel your country ; you libel your 
 country when you insinuate that they would 
 " not join us in repulsing the attacks^ either of 
 ^' France or America/^ In making these observa- 
 tions, he seemed as if he was much angry and 
 could not control his feelings. We think a good 
 debater should never lose his temper ; if he does, 
 we think he may sometimes lose sight of his argu- 
 ment. After a little more than a quarter of an 
 hour, the violence of Sir Robert Peel towards Mr. 
 O^Connell appeared to abate, and he then went 
 into the merits of the proposed measure, and 
 calmly stated his views and opinions in very 
 fluent language. Mr. O'Connell, after Sir Robert 
 had finished his personalities, packed up his 
 papers, made his bow to the Speaker, and left him 
 to his two hours' speech. And we think him a 
 great speaker, but his actions were odd, as 
 he kept thrusting one of his hands out between 
 the flaps of his coat, and swinging himself 
 round. We should have called him an orator, 
 but for his losing his temper. Still we should 
 say he reasoned well, and his speech appeared 
 to make a great impression upon his side of 
 
181 
 
 the house. The cheers were loud and often^ 
 and he appealed in very strong language to 
 the Ministers of the Crown^ who sat opposite 
 to him^ as to what they would do upon cer- 
 tain other questions with their now sworn 
 friends^ Mr. O^Connell and his partisans. At 
 all events. Sir Robert Peel seemed determined 
 again to go at length into the details of the question^ 
 and to oppose it with all his power. We could 
 but smile at the loud cheers and the enthusiasm 
 that was shewn then to him by his party^ among 
 whom, we were informed, he was a short time 
 since rather unpopular, in consequence of his 
 not having moved quite so quickly or violently as 
 they wished, so that we fancied the mass within 
 doors were almost as fickle in their minds as the 
 mob without doors. 
 
 Lord John Russell a minister of the crown, and 
 the political ministerial leader of the House of 
 Commons, then rose, and we were surprised to 
 find that he did not speak fluently ; he appeared 
 to have an impediment in his speech, but after a 
 little while he shook off his apparent impediment, 
 and he, for nearly two hours, spoke principally in 
 explanation of the question before the House. 
 His side of the House cheered him quite as loudly 
 as Sir Robert Peel had been cheered. We looked at 
 him, he was a little pale looking man, with a tole- 
 rably loud voice, but not harmonious, and his action, 
 although energetic^ was not altogether pleasing. 
 
182 
 
 But after all these people had spoken, and 
 argued^ to gain converts as it were, the result was 
 nearly as it had been foretold at an earlier hour 
 in the evening. For upon a division the ministers 
 of the crown had only a majority of five. So that 
 all these long speeches might have been spared, 
 and all the members of the House, the messengers, 
 and the reporters, might for all the good effect 
 the debate had had, all of them been quietly 
 enjoying their night^s rest. We were told that this 
 was a grand trial of strength, and if the minis- 
 ters had not had most votes with them, conserva- 
 tives would have changed sides in the house, and 
 the liberals would no longer have been ministers. 
 We saw in addition to those who spoke, several 
 members of whom we had heard much — Sir James 
 Graham, Lord Stanley, Lord Morpeth, Lord 
 Howick, Mr. Hume , Mr. Byng, who has been 
 more than fifty years member for Middlesex, Sir 
 John Hobhouse, Mr. Bernal, Sir Charles Adam, 
 and a host of others. This is an evening that we 
 shall never forget. We consider it the most exciting 
 eight or nine hours that we ever spent, and yet 
 upon the whole we were disappointed. We had 
 expected to have seen the representatives of all the 
 wealth, all the talent, all the resources of the 
 country, better dressed and a different looking set 
 of men. We saw them with their hats upon their 
 heads for the last two or three hours sleeping in 
 all directions, and only opening their eyes now 
 
183 
 
 and then^ when a cheer louder than common struck 
 upon their ears ; still such an assemblage of men 
 holding the destinies of millions in their hands^ 
 we may never again see. 
 
 On Friday, the 26th of February, 1841, our 
 friend Mr. Baldock, having procured a letter of 
 introduction, accompanied by him, we paid a visit 
 to the House of Lords; we went at four o'clock, and 
 as there w^as nothing of much importance expected 
 to come before the House, the Lord Chancellor 
 was not expected to take the chair, but instead 
 thereof, Lord Shaftesbury, who is the chairman of 
 committees for the House of Lords, was just about 
 to take his seat on the Woolpack, which is a seat 
 at the upper end of the House in front of the 
 Throne. He was preceded into the House by 
 Mr. William Butt, deputy sergeant at arms, who 
 carried before the earl the beautiful silver gilt 
 mace^ which he laid upon a seat before him in the 
 House. We here beg to acknowledge the very 
 great kindness we then received from Mr. Butt^ 
 who is a hearty old gentleman, not looking more 
 than sixty, but who told us he was upwards of 
 seventy, he took us into the gallery through which 
 the Queen passes to the throne. And we have 
 also to thank James Pulman, Esq., Yeoman 
 Usher of the House of Lords, who, whilst we were 
 at the bar of the House, v^^as kind enough to point 
 out the several noblemen present; of bishops 
 there were three, London, Exeter, and Ripon. 
 
184 
 
 The same rule is observed here as in the House of 
 Commons^ the ministerial peers sit on the right 
 hand of the Speaker, and the opposition on the 
 left hand. We saw the Duke of Wellington; 
 his grace had been attacked with sudden indis- 
 position a few nights previously in the House of 
 Lords, and as soon as Lord Brougham came in, 
 he went over to the Duke of Wellington, and 
 taking one of his hands between both his, he 
 expressed his hope that he was recovered, and his 
 joy at seeing him out. Although it was not a day 
 of much business we saw Lord Melbourne, first 
 Lord of the Treasury and Prime Minister, Lord 
 Normanby, the Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, Lord 
 Minto, first Lord of the Admiralty. And we heard 
 Lord Brougham twice speak. Lord Mount Edge- 
 combe presented a petition relative to the removal 
 of packets from Falmouth, and praying they might 
 be allowed still to proceed from thence, so as to 
 benefit the county of Cornwall, upon which Lord 
 Melbourne answered him as a minister of the 
 crown. Lord Mount Edgecombe replied, and 
 then Lord Minto spoke. It was but a short 
 meeting, but we saw some of those we wished to 
 see, and we had an opportunity of hearing them 
 speak. The Duke of Wellington and Lord Broug- 
 ham came down close to where we were. The apart- 
 ment in which the Lords now assemble, was 
 formerly the painted chamber; over the bar, where 
 we stood is the gallery for the use of the reporters 
 
185 
 
 and for such persons as are admitted by peers^ 
 orders. The place where we stood, below the bar, 
 is always open to the members of the House of 
 Commons. Strangers of all sorts are supposed 
 not to be present at the House of Lords, and are 
 excluded upon all divisions. 
 
 Westminster Hall, adjoining nearly the House 
 of Lords and Commons, is considered to be the 
 largest room in length unsupported by pillars. It 
 is two hundred and seventy feet long and seventy- 
 four feet broad. Parliament was frequently as- 
 sembed in this hall, and here was held the ancient 
 court of justice, in which the king presided. In 
 Westminster Hall, the kings of England have 
 always had their coronation feasts ; it is also 
 generally used for the trial of peers accused of 
 high treason, or other crimes against the state, 
 and it was in this hall that Charles the First was 
 tried. The Court of Exchequer, Court of Chancery, 
 King^s Bench, and Common Pleas, being the 
 great law courts, are here all held under this 
 Roof. Opposite this hall is a very beautiful Col- 
 legiate Church called Westminster Abbey, it is 
 said to have been built in 1220. Here all the 
 kings and queens of England have been crowned, 
 and here also very many of them previous to 
 George the Third are buried; he, and all since 
 him, have been buried at Windsor. Here also 
 most of the nobility, many of the poets and 
 philosophers, and very many of the great men of 
 England have been buried. 
 
186 
 
 CHAPTER XV, 
 
 POLICE AND CRIMINAL COURTS. 
 
 We consider that we should speak of the pohce 
 courts of London; every district has one^ Bow 
 Street, Hatton Garden, Thames Police, and others 
 have a paid magistrate who is constantly sitting 
 to hear charges for robberies, assaults, &c. We 
 went to one adjoining the Guildhall, where one of 
 the Aldermen of London was sitting as a magis- 
 trate. The Aldermen of London are not paid for 
 acting as magistrates, and as the course pursued 
 there is similar to what is usual at all the courts, a 
 brief description may not be uninteresting to our 
 countrymen. The magistrate sits on a raised chair 
 so as to command a full view of all the court, and on 
 a seat immediately behind him, is a lawyer, called 
 the magistrate's clerk, and whose duty it is to 
 explain to the magistrate any doubtful point, as to 
 whether it is proper to send the prisoner to gaol 
 for trial, or to remand the case to a future day, or 
 to let the prisoner out upon security that he shall 
 appear when called upon to meet the charge, or to 
 
187 
 
 let him go at large from not having sufficient 
 evidence to commit him. 
 
 The case under investigation when we entered^ 
 was a charge made by a person^ we believe a 
 tailor, against a respectably dressed good looking 
 young woman, who, there was reason to appre- 
 hend gained her living by prostitution, to the 
 following effect. He was first sworn upon the 
 Christians New Testament of their scripture to 
 speak the truth, and having the book in his right 
 hand, and having kissed the book^ he was allowed 
 to state, that on the previous evening at a very 
 late hour, he and his foreman were coming down 
 Cheapside after all the shops were closed, and he 
 then had his purse in his pocket with rather a 
 large sum of money in it; that the young woman 
 addressed him wantonly, and put her arm once 
 or twice round his person, and that he almost 
 immediately missed his purse, that he called for 
 the police, and upon one of those men approach- 
 ing, the young woman ran up a passage where 
 they soon followed her, but could not, upon her 
 nor in the court or passage, find the purse. To all 
 these facts the foreman and the pohceman were 
 sworn, and the tailor was very closely questioned 
 as to the certainty of his having had the purse 
 when the young woman approached him. 
 
 This is the usual course pursued at all police 
 courts. We should have mentioned that a spot 
 opposite the magistrates is railed off from the 
 
188 
 
 court, and at a raised spot the parties charged with 
 offences are placed with the policeman or gaoler 
 who have them in charge. In a spot between the 
 prisoner and the magistrate are raised seats for 
 solicitors or barristers who may come to bring the 
 charges or to defend the prisoner, and there is 
 room for forty or fifty spectators to hear what is 
 going on ; and at most of these police courts a 
 reporter from the newspapers attends to report in 
 their papers such things as are deemed interesting. 
 All these courts are open to the public. 
 
 When a prisoner is committed for any offence, 
 he is furnished with a copy of the evidence that 
 has been produced against him, in order that when 
 he is tried he may prepare his defence. And he 
 has also before his trial a copy of the bill of in- 
 dictment that is preferred against him, that his 
 solicitor may see if he has any good defence to 
 offer. When the sessions, as they are called, 
 come on, most respectable persons are summoned 
 upon, what is called, the grand jury. And all the 
 witnesses who went before the magistrate to swear 
 to the commission of the offence, have then to go 
 before twenty-four of these persons called the 
 grand jury, in a room attached to the sessions 
 house, and there they again swear to all they know 
 of the matter. If the jury are satisfied that the 
 prisoner committed the offence^ they find a true 
 bilP^ that is, they think the bill of indictment 
 containing all the charges, contains sufficient 
 
189 
 
 proof of the fact to put the prisoner upon his 
 trial, otherwise they write upon the back not a 
 true bill^^ and the prisoner is then entitled to his 
 discharge from prison, and is to be considered as 
 quite innocent. 
 
 When a true bill is found, thirteen respectable 
 persons (who occupy houses rated to a certain 
 amount, or who are possessed of a house or houses 
 of their own) are sworn as a jury to say guilty, 
 or not guilty/' according to such evidence as may 
 come then before them, and a barrister of some 
 standing and of high legal knowledge presides as 
 a judge. The judge is dressed in a wig something 
 like that worn by the speaker of the House of 
 Commons, and a large red gown or cloak, and the 
 seat in which he sits is considerably raised, having 
 a gallery round it in which magistrates sit. On 
 the right hand of the judge separated from the 
 rest of the people are the jury, who as soon as 
 they are sworn, select one of their number for 
 their foreman and who usually puts any questions 
 they may require, and returns their verdict of 
 guilty or not guilty.^^ 
 
 In a sort of pit below are a number of sallow- 
 looking men, dressed in black gowns with pow- 
 dered wigs with little tails, and these are called 
 barristers. At a bar, in front of the judge, stands 
 the prisoner with the gaoler, or one of his assist- 
 ants by his side in charge of him ; and he is first 
 arraigned by the Clerk of the Peace saying, You 
 
190 
 
 stand charged with /* naming the offence ; 
 
 What say you ? are you guilty, or not guilty/' 
 Most usually the prisoner answers (which is called 
 pleading) Not guilty.'^ Upon which he is then 
 asked, " How will you be tried?" and he replies, 
 " By God and my country/^ The jury then are 
 called over who are to try him ; and if he sees^ 
 when they come to be sworn, any persons whom 
 he thinks would not do him justice, he objects to 
 their being sworn in, and others are then called in 
 their place. One of the barristers then, address- 
 ing the judge and the jury, opens the case, as 
 they call it, by stating what the prisoner is 
 charged with, and then proceeds to call and swear 
 the witnesses to prove the charge. As soon as 
 the barrister who is counsel for the prosecution 
 has got the witness to state all he knows about 
 the matter, the counsel for the prisoner then 
 rises and proceeds to cross examine the witness ; 
 and to a person unacquainted with the object in 
 view, it would rather appear that the court was 
 assembled to inquire into the respectability of the 
 witness under examination, and whether he was 
 to be believed upon his oath, rather than to ascer- 
 tain whether the prisoner at the bar was guilty^' 
 or not guilty." 
 
 In order however to make this sort of thing 
 more clear we will describe an actual scene as 
 told to us by a friend. It was some years since 
 and a gentleman who had dined with some friends 
 
191 
 
 at Rochester and took too much wine was pro- 
 ceeding from that place to London in a post 
 chaise alone, and being under the influence of wine 
 fell asleep, he roused himself at Dartford, where he 
 had fresh horses, and a few miles nearer to London 
 at the foot of Shooters' Hill, his carriage was 
 stopped by a robber on foot with a piece of crape 
 over his face and a pistol in his hand, who 
 awakened him, and took his money and watch. 
 Whilst he was doing this his crape fell from his 
 face and the post chaise driver looked round (for 
 it was a very moonlight night) and took such 
 notice of his features, that upon shortly after 
 meeting with a mounted patrole he gave such a 
 description of the robber, that he was almost im- 
 mediately after taken into custody, and being 
 sworn to by the chaise driver was committed for 
 trial ; for his defence he procured the services of 
 Mr. Garrow, (who afterwards became the Judge 
 Sir William Garrow) and as the gentleman could 
 not from his intoxication at the time recognize 
 the man, all the actual proof rested with the 
 chaise driver; and after he had sworn most posi- 
 tively and unreservedly to the person of the pri- 
 soner, and was about leaving the witness box, 
 Mr. Garrow said, My friend, just one word with 
 ^^you; where did you dine to-day?'^ He an- 
 swered, Why, if you must know^ I dined at the 
 " Three Tuns/' Well, then,^' said Mr. Garrow, 
 " was not your first toast after dinner, ' Success 
 
192 
 
 to the cause ?' You know you are to get 
 forty pounds if you get this man hung/^ He re- 
 pUed, I don't know anything about toasts ; that 
 a'nt got nothing to do with this trial : reward 
 money will be pretty well mulcted by thief taker 
 and lawyer afore it comes to me/^ ^^Come, come, 
 come,'^ said Mr. Garrow, don^t you lose your 
 " temper, you know youVe come here to-day to 
 swear this man^s life away. Now^ remember 
 you are upon your oath^ Sir : you never saw this 
 man before that evening ; you merely turned 
 round upon your saddle and caught sight of his 
 face for a few moments. NoWy Sir, do you mean 
 to swear the unhappy prisoner at the bar is the 
 man.^^ The driver replied, Yes^ I know he was 
 the manP Very well, Sir,^^ said Garrow, 
 mind what you are about. Now, you never 
 saw me before to-day, did you " No, 
 never Very well, then, Mr. Post-boy. 
 N0W5 suppose I was to come up the Rochester 
 road to London, stop at the Bull and George at 
 Dartford to change horses ; the first-turn boy is 
 called, and with the fresh horses out come you. 
 Now^ Sir, look at me. I have now got my wig 
 and gown on ; and do you mean to say that by 
 just catching a slight peep at me, dressed, mind, 
 in quite different clothes — I mean to ask you — 
 now look at me hard — could you swear to me 
 Garrow gained his point; the witness lost his 
 temper, and answered, " Know you, d you ! 
 
193 
 
 Yes, I'd swear to you through thick and thin, 
 
 d you!" The Judge turned towards one of 
 
 the officers of the court, and said, ^^Let that 
 impudent vagabond be turned out of court 
 immediately. I do not hold a fellow like that 
 deserving of credit/^ And this is what is called 
 breaking down a witness by cross-examination. 
 
 But to proceed with our description of a crimi- 
 nal court, witness after witness is examined and 
 the prisoner is then called upon for his defence 
 and he sometimes endeavours to prove what is 
 called an x\libi, that is that he was in another 
 place when the offence was committed ; and at 
 other times produces a host of witnesses to prove 
 his hitherto unimpeachable good character. After 
 which the Judge reads over what every witness 
 has said, usually making remarks upon what they 
 have each sworn to ; and then the Jury turn 
 round and consult with themselves upon the 
 evidence and the Clerk of the Peace says to them ; 
 Gentlemen are you agreed in your verdict, is the 
 Prisoner " Guilty ^' or " not Guilty,^' upon which 
 the Foreman replies guilty or not as the case may 
 seem to them, the Clerk then says ^ You say the 
 Prisoner is guilty, that is your verdict and thus we 
 say all.' The Judge then proceeds to pass sen- 
 tence ; if for murder he sentences the prisoner to 
 be hung by his neck until he is dead. There are 
 numerous offences where great discretionary 
 power is left with the Judge ; in sentencing he 
 
 K 
 
194 
 
 may transport for life beyond the seas to work in 
 chains as a convict^ or he may imprison for a few- 
 hours ; and this power is left that a judge may 
 discriminate whether it is an old hardened offender 
 or one new to crime. 
 
 We should have mentioned that all the twelve 
 persons composing the Jury must be of one mind, 
 and it has frequently happened that one obstinate 
 man has for hours prevented a Jury from return- 
 ing a verdict ; after they have retired to consider 
 their verdict, they are not allowed fire, candle, 
 victuals nor drink, and they are shut up until they 
 can agree ; and it is said that two or three have 
 held out in their opinions fourteen or sixteen 
 hours and brought round the other portion to 
 their way of thinking. 
 
195 
 
 CHAPTER XVL 
 
 Exhibitions of the Fine Arts. 
 
 Coliseum. — We paid a long and very plea- 
 sant visit to a building at the south end of 
 Regent^s Prrk^ called the Coliseum; it has a por- 
 tico called Doric, and a circular roof rising from a 
 polygon of sixteen facings and occupies an area of 
 four hundred feet. It was built for the purpose 
 of exhibiting a panoramic view of London and 
 the country for several miles round London, as it 
 may be seen from the upper part of the steeple of 
 St. PauPs Cathedral Church; all the sketches 
 were actually taken in 1821, by Mr. Horner, when 
 repairs were going on and scaffolds were erected, 
 and it was painted from those sketches by Mr. 
 Parris upon canvass ; the walls of the building 
 are eighty feet high and the top of it is one 
 hundred and twelve feet from the ground, the 
 dome is seventy five in diameter and attracts 
 universal attention from its singular shape, as well 
 as its immense size. There is machinery that 
 raises you to view the panorama if you wish to 
 
196 
 
 decline the trouble of walking up stairs. The 
 space of canvass that it is painted upon is said to 
 be 46^000 square yards, and the correctness of 
 every building that is represented^ (and every 
 building in London is shewn here,) is of that 
 nature that we quite forgot we were looking upon 
 a picture. But we fancied we were indeed 
 looking from a high building upon reality. No 
 language that we can use can possibly convey our 
 feelings. It must be seen before any one can 
 imagine the fidelity with which every thing, every 
 place, is pictured. You see from a gateway a 
 coachman driving out a stage coach, his horses 
 are just out of the stable and full of life, and upon 
 getting into the street they are all terrified, and 
 you see the coachman troubled to get them 
 together, and you are about to call to the people 
 to take care of themselves. The illusion is com- 
 plete throughout. If there is any locality with 
 which you are intimately acquainted, any building 
 which has any peculiarity attached to it, look to 
 that spot and you will see the broken turret or the 
 painted chimney, or the gothic window, every 
 thing however minute is particularized, and it is 
 one of the greatest works of art ever achieved. 
 
 The architect was Mr. Decimus Burton, it was 
 commenced in 1821, and finished in 1827:? and 
 must have cost an immense sum of money. 
 You pay one shilling for admission. We stood 
 gazing upon this painted representation of London 
 
197 
 
 and as we looked upon the various prominent 
 buildings^ forgetful that it was but a picture, we 
 could not but think what an extraordinary place, 
 taken as a whole, London is. We had under- 
 stood that it now occupies eighteen square miles 
 of surface and that the circumference is upwards 
 of thirty miles. That there are twelve thou- 
 sand streets, nearly two hundred thousand 
 houses, and with strangers, who are constantly 
 visiting London, there are perhaps two mil- 
 lions of people every day in that space ; and that 
 by far the greater proportion of this immense 
 population have either by head or by hands to 
 obtain their daily sustenance. We thought of the 
 splendid shops of all descriptions, of the immense 
 wealth contained within these shops. Take for 
 instance a first rate silversmith, or silkman, or 
 watchmaker, or linen draper, or cloth seller, or 
 glass dealer, or china man ; and think how many 
 thousands of pounds are within each of their 
 shops. And here we would wish to remove an 
 error in which many of our countrymen are. 
 Most of the natives of India are of opinion that 
 in England only particular people in each trade 
 can produce, and do sell^ first rate genuine articles. 
 We tell them that in all trades there are venj 
 many respectable persons who sell goods equal in 
 quality to each other, and at the same fair prices. 
 The greater number of respectable shopkeepers 
 would sell to a child of twelve years old as honorably 
 
198 
 
 and as fairly as to a person of mature age. But 
 always bear this in mind, really good articles, well 
 manufactured of the best materials although ap- 
 parently a little dearer, are cheapest in the end. 
 They who profess to sell cheap cannot procure a 
 good article at less than their fair dealing neigh- 
 bours. And we would say be careful how^ you 
 deal with a man who advertises extensively. 
 You are quite sure you and every customer must 
 pay part of his advertisements, or else get an in- 
 ferior article to that made by the man who spends 
 no money upon advertisements^ and never deal 
 at a shop that has two prices^ asking in the first 
 instance more than they mean to take. One very 
 great advantage in the shops of England is that 
 they are all numbered, and the names of the 
 owners, together with their respective trades are 
 upon the door or door posts. They also have 
 their name, place and trade printed on cards, 
 which they give you in order that you may not 
 forget them and know the particulars if you should 
 require to go in future. These practices we 
 would strongly recommend to be adopted in 
 Bombay. You will in passing the streets have 
 bills thrust into your hands of cheap shops^ tailors 
 who profess to make a suit of clothes of best cloth 
 for less money than the cloth is to be purchased at. 
 These are men who have glossy shewy cloth that 
 wears rough and will not last. You have Tea 
 dealers offering to sell Tea at a less price than it 
 
199 
 
 is to be bought of that description at wholesale 
 prices, this is inferior or else adulterated Tea ; 
 in February, 1841, a person was detected in 
 London who collected leaves of Tea after they 
 had been used, and by a poisonous process gave 
 them the appearance of Gunpowder Green Tea 
 and sold them to be mixed by professed Cheap 
 Tea dealers. 
 
 In every trade there are these cheap professors, 
 knives, scissars and razors are made to sell, not to 
 cut J plated goods are manufactured with so little 
 silver that they will not bear a second time clean- 
 ing. Glass which has been cast in moulds is sold 
 for cut glass. Cotton shirting is stiffened up, 
 glazed and sold for flax shirting. Cabbage leaves 
 are steeped in tobacco water and made into cigars. 
 Cheap printed cottons are sold that will not 
 wash. Watches are made that only go whilst 
 you carry them. Every trade has its disreput- 
 able branch. And the Jews are the principal 
 sellers of these inferior articles. There may be 
 and no doubt are honourable exceptions among 
 them. But it is seldom safe to deal with them ; 
 they always ask three or four times as much 
 as they intend to take for their articles. They 
 call God to witness their articles are first rate, and 
 it is of very rare occurrence, that any person has 
 any dealings with a Jew, but what he disco- 
 vers in some way or other that he has been 
 cheated. 
 
200 
 
 We therefore say always deal at a reputable 
 shop. Whenever you see a shop pretendhig to 
 sell " Bankrupts^ Stocks at great sacrifice/^ when- 
 ever you see a shop with goods to be sold at 
 " immense sacrifice^' pass it quietly by and go to 
 some quiet business like shop not where there is 
 a long train of carriages waiting at the door, 
 because there if you walk in^ you are not waited 
 upon until the carriage company are all served. 
 Also avoid making purchases at a shop where the 
 front is very handsomely decorated and extrava- 
 gantly fitted up, if you do you must contribute to 
 the folly of the owner by paying in proportion for 
 the shew, besides that of the actual worth of the 
 article you buy. These shops are frequented by 
 those who care little for money ; but for a man of 
 moderate fortune they are much more pleasant to 
 look at and admire than make purchases at. 
 
 You will also read in newspapers advertisements 
 for pills which cuxq all sorts of head aches'' — 
 dinner pills'^ — ^^antibilious pills^' — ^' cough drops'^ 
 with long comment upon their good qualities, and 
 often testimonies of those who have been relieved 
 by using these medicines. Do not believe a word 
 of it, all this is put in the papers by persons who 
 know nothing about medicines, (they are called 
 " Quacks" in England) who make large fortunes 
 by preparing and selling these medicines, and 
 they are mixtures of a great many spurious drugs. 
 Many valuable lives have been lost by taking 
 
201 
 
 things prepared by these unprincipled men, many 
 of whom have been tried and punished for ad- 
 ministering to patients such medicines, as were 
 calculated to increase the distemper rather than 
 cure it. For instance can a man of common sense 
 beheve that one suffering head-ache brought on 
 by drunkenness, another suffering it through the 
 want of food, and the head ache of a third proceed- 
 ing from a severe fall or from watchfulness and 
 anxiety can be treated in the same way ? And yet 
 you find it assserted in a most solemn tone that 
 one particular thing does equally well for all. 
 
 The best advice we can give to our readers is 
 this. If you want medical aid and are not in a 
 position to procure it, go to one of the commonest 
 Druggists, who knows the properties of articles he 
 gives you, but do not for one moment rely upon 
 all the nonsensical puffs and advertisements you 
 read in the newspapers about these misnamed 
 medicines. 
 
 But we have now to speak of the great civility 
 that we have always received in shops ; they are 
 anxious to shew you things even if you do not buy, 
 and however small the amount you may purchase, 
 they are always anxious to send it home for you. 
 You see in all the shops respectable well-dressed 
 assistants \ and it is to us most astonishing, con- 
 sidering the great number of shops of every 
 description, how the proprietors of them manage 
 to get a living. It is a fact, that in some of the 
 K 2 
 
202 
 
 large silk mercers and dealers in threads, tapes, &c., 
 nearly one hundred young men are kept and 
 boarded upon the premises, all of whom besides 
 have a good salary. Then when we consider the 
 rent and annual outgoings, is it not wonderful how 
 they make it answer ? But a large proportion of 
 the citizens of London with their families live in 
 superb country houses at Holloway, Highbury, 
 Islington, Paddington, Blackheath, or in some other 
 of the environs of London. And here they have 
 large and expensive establishments ; their wives 
 and families are quite shocked if you name the 
 shop. They keep in very many instances a carri- 
 age with two male servants and three female 
 servants. They, when they give dinner parties, 
 have three or four courses of seven or eight dishes 
 each course, have five or six sorts of wines, and 
 bring up their sons and daughters with much ex- 
 pense at very high priced schools, thus unfitting 
 them to serve behind counters, and yet these people 
 who live at more expense than half the respectable 
 portion of people of independent property, often 
 talk of the badness of the times, and wonder at 
 their neighbours not thriving in the world ; unfor- 
 tunately this class of people forget who and what 
 they are. Their wives lavish upon their dress and 
 that of their daughters, more than ought to keep 
 their families, and if we knew the real history of 
 half of the shopkeepers, who in modern days have 
 become bankrupts and robbed their creditors, we 
 
203 
 
 should find it arose from their country houses and 
 their wish to outdo their neighbours. 
 
 We shall now present, from the well known 
 paper entitled the Connoisseur, published in 1754 
 by Mr. Bonnel Thornton and Mr. George 
 Colman, an article descriptive of the London 
 citizen of that time spending the Sunday in his 
 country box. 
 " The London citizen of the reign of George 
 the Second. In those dusty retreats where the 
 want of London smoke is supplied by the smoke 
 of Virginia tobacco, our chief citizens are ac- 
 customed to pass the end and the beginning of 
 every week. Their boxes (as they are mostly 
 called) are generally built in a row, to resemble 
 as much as possible the streets in London. 
 Those edifices which stand single, and at a dis- 
 tance from the road, have always a summer 
 house at the end of a small garden ; which 
 being erected upon a wall adjoining to the 
 highway, commands a view of every car- 
 " riage, and gives the owner an opportunity of 
 displaying his best wig to every one that passes 
 " by. A little artificial fountain, spouting water 
 " sometimes to the amazing height of four feet, 
 " and in which frogs supply the want of fishes, is 
 one of the most exquisite ornaments these 
 gardens have. There are besides (if the spot of 
 ground allows sufficient space for them) very 
 curious statues of Harlequin, Scaramouch^ 
 
204 
 
 " Pierrot and Columbine^ which serve to remind 
 " their wives and daughters of what they have 
 seen at the play-house. I went last Sunday^ in 
 compliance with a most pressing invitation from 
 ^' a friend to spend the whole day with him at one 
 " of these little seats^ which he had fitted up for 
 " his retirement once a week from business. It 
 " is pleasantly situated about three miles from 
 London^ on the side of a public road, from 
 " which it is separated by a dry ditch over which 
 is a little bridge consisting of two narrow 
 planks leading to the house. The hedge on the 
 other side the road cuts off all prospect whatso- 
 ever, except from the garrets, from whence 
 indeed you have a beautiful vista of two men 
 hanging in chains on Kennington Common, 
 with a distant view of St. Paul's cupola, enve- 
 loped in a cloud of smoke. 
 " I set out on my visit betimes in the morning, 
 accompanied by my friend^s book-keeper who 
 was my guide, and carried over with him the 
 London Evening Post, his mistresses hoop and 
 a dozen of pipes, which they were afraid to trust 
 " in the chair. - When I came to the end of my 
 walk I found my friend sitting at the door in a 
 black velvet cap, smoking his morning pipe. 
 "He welcomed me into the country and after 
 " having made me observe the Turnpike on my 
 " left and the Golden Wheatsheaf on my right, he 
 " conducted me into his house, where I was re- 
 
205 
 
 " ceived by his lady who made a thousand apo- 
 " logics for being caught in such a dishabille. 
 
 The hall (for so I was taught to call it) had its 
 " white wall almost hid by a curious collection of 
 
 prints and paintings. On one side was a large 
 " map of London, a plan and elevation of the 
 " Mansion House with several lesser views of the 
 " public building and halls, on the other was the 
 ^' Death of the Stag, by the happy pencil of Mr. 
 
 Henry Overton finely coloured, close by the 
 
 parlour door there hung a pair of stages horns, 
 " over which there was laid a red roquelaure and an 
 " amber headed cane. 
 
 " When I had declared all this to be mighty 
 " pretty I was shown into the parlour, and was 
 
 presently asked, who that was over the chimney 
 
 piece. I pronounced it to be a very striking 
 " likeness of my friend, who was drawn bolt 
 " upright in a full bottomed perriwig, a laced 
 " cravat, with the fringed ends appearing through 
 " a button hole, a black livery gown, a snufF 
 " coloured velvet coat with gold buttons, a red 
 
 velvet waistcoat trimmed with gold, one hand 
 " stuck in the bosom of his shirt, and the other 
 
 holding out a letter with a superscription ' To 
 
 " Mr , Common Councilman of Farringdon 
 
 " Ward Without. ' My eyes were then directed 
 
 to another figure in a scarlet gown, who I was 
 " informed was my friend's wife^s great uncle, and 
 " had been sheriflF and knighted in the reign of King 
 
206 
 
 " James L Madam herself filled up a pannel on 
 " the opposite side in the habit of a shepherdess, 
 " smelling to a nosegay and stroking a ram with 
 gilt horns. 
 
 I was then invited by my friend to see what 
 he pleased to call his garden, which was nothing 
 more than a yard about thirty feet in length, 
 " and contained about a dozen little pots ranged 
 on each side, with lilies and cockscombs sup- 
 ported by some old laths painted green, with 
 bowls of tobacco-pipes on their tops. At the 
 " end of this garden he made me take notice of 
 ^' a little square building surrounded with fiUeroy, 
 which he told me an alderman of great taste 
 had turned into a temple, by erecting some bat- 
 tlements and spires of painted wood on the 
 front of it. 
 
 After dinner, when my friend had finished 
 his pipe, he proposed taking a walk that we 
 
 " might enjoy a little of the country; so I was 
 obliged to trudge along the footpath by the 
 road side, while my friend went puffing and 
 blowing, with his hat in his hand and his wig 
 half off his head. At last I told him it was 
 time for me to return home, w^hen he insisted 
 on going with me as far as the half-way house 
 
 " to drink a decanter of stingo before we parted. 
 We here fell into company with a brother livery- 
 man of the same ward, and I left them both 
 together in a high dispute about (Elizabeth) 
 
207 
 
 " Canning, but not before my friend had made 
 " me promise to repeat my visit to his country 
 house the next Sunday. 
 
 " As the riches of a country are visible in the 
 number of its inhabitants and the elegance of 
 their dwellings, we may venture to say that the 
 present state of England is very flourishing 
 and prosperous ; and if the taste for building 
 increases with our opulence for the next cen- 
 tury, we shall be able to boast of finer country 
 seats belonging to our shopkeepers, artificers, 
 and other plebeians, than the most pompous 
 descriptions of Italy or Greece have ever re- 
 corded. We read, it is true, of country seats 
 belonging to Pliny, Hortensius, LucuUus, and 
 other Romans. They were patricians of great 
 
 ^' rank and fortune ; there can, therefore, be no 
 doubt of the excellence of their villas. But 
 whoever read of a Chinese bridge belong- 
 ing to an Attic tallow-chandler or a Roman 
 pastry-cook ? Or could any of their shoemakers 
 or tailors boast a villa with its tin cascades, 
 
 " paper statues, and gothic root houses ? Upon 
 the above principles we may expect that poste- 
 
 " rity will perhaps see a cheesemonger's Apiarium 
 at Brentford, a poulterer^s Theriotrophium at 
 Chiswick, and an Ornithonomeion in a fish- 
 monger's garden at Putney. 
 
 As a patriot and an Englishman I cannot but 
 wish that each successive century should increase 
 
208 
 
 the opulence of Great Britain ; but I should be 
 " sorry that this abundance of wealth should 
 ^' induce our good citizens to turn their thoughts 
 " too much upon the country. At present we 
 are deprived of our most eminent tradesmen 
 " two days out of six. It is true the shopkeeper 
 and the travelling part of his family, consisting 
 " generally of himself, his wife, and his two eldest 
 ^' daughters, are seldom sufficiently equipped to 
 take leave of London till about three o'clock on 
 " Saturday in the afternoon ; but the whole morn- 
 " ing of that day is consumed in papering-up 
 cold chickens, bottling brandy punch, sorting 
 clean shifts and nightcaps for the children, pin- 
 ning baskets and cording trunks ; as again is the 
 " whole afternoon of the Monday following in 
 unpinning, uncording, locking-up foul linen, 
 and replacing empty bottles in the cellar. I am 
 afraid, therefore, if the villas of our future trades- 
 men should be become so very elegant, that the 
 shopkeepers will scarce ever be visible behind 
 " their counters above once in a month.^^ 
 
 When we looked upon the immense number 
 of Churches, Catholic Chapels, Dissenting places 
 of Worship, Jews' Synagogues, and all those 
 varied places that are set apart in London for the 
 different modes of worship, we could but think 
 w^hat extremely odd creatures men were ; and we 
 said to ourselves, ' Oh, that all those places were 
 what they appear to be, and what they were pro- 
 
209 
 
 fessedly built for ! for men to pray to their God 
 therein for all the human race^ and to offer thanks 
 to their Maker for the numerous benefits bestowed 
 upon them ; instead of which some of them, it is 
 to be regretted^ are used to find fault with each 
 other's creed^ and to point out the rocks and 
 shoals upon which other sects have split, instead 
 of looking out for the whirlpools into which they 
 are themselves rapidly gliding/ Oh, we thought, 
 would that religion in England was not taken 
 up as a trade ! would that charity and brotherly 
 love were preached up and acted upon, instead of 
 finding faults with their fellow brethren, and ex- 
 citing each other to bitter religious hatred, which 
 has for centuries past thrown discord among men, 
 and severed the dearest ties of friendship and love in 
 society. Here we looked down upon something like 
 two hundred churches, upwards of two hundred 
 dissenting places of worship, nearly twenty Roman 
 Catholic chapels and Jews^ synagogues. 
 
 The streets of London attract the attention of 
 every stranger. They are all paved with stone, 
 and a broad flagged stone path on each side for 
 foot passengers : they are brilliantly lighted with 
 gas. The mud is constantly scraped up and 
 taken away in carts by scavengers ; and there are 
 drains called sewers under all the streets for the 
 water to run off* through iron gratings, and thus 
 into the river Thames. 
 
 We could particularly mention Regent Street, 
 
210 
 
 and Regent^s Quadrant and Circus^ as containing 
 some of the finest and best furnished shops in 
 the world. Oxford Street, Holborn^ Cheapside, 
 Fleet Street^ and the Strand, have all capital 
 shops, in which all the productions of the known 
 world can be obtained. But in these places^ 
 with all the care that can be used, after a heavy 
 rain the streets are in a most dirty condition, 
 and foot passengers can scarcely cross without a 
 chance of getting over their shoes in mud ; and 
 then the neverceasing noise in Cheapside, or 
 any of the great thoroughfares, obliges you to 
 quite distress yourself in talking loud to make 
 yourself heard by your friends. 
 
 The squares at the west end of London are 
 composed of princely houses fit for palaces. 
 There are gardens in the centre of each square, 
 with many shrubs, railed round with iron pali- 
 sades ; and the carriages of the nobihty and the 
 gentry that are constantly passing and repassing, 
 give an air of life and gentility quite opposed to 
 the heavy carts, waggons, and omnibnses which 
 are always rumbling about in the city. We could 
 talk almost for ever of the magnificent view of 
 the Coliseum. We think it a master-piece of 
 human ingenuity, and we would say to our own 
 countrymen who visit England, and to such 
 Englishmen who have not yet seen it, that there 
 is nothing in London that will better please them 
 than the Coliseum, and that for only one shilling. 
 
211 
 
 Below there is a saloon, where statues of eminent 
 men are in great number. 
 
 The National Gallery. — ^This is a very 
 large building situated in Trafalgar Square^ Charing 
 Cross, where a number of beautiful paintings and 
 pictures are exhibited to the public without any 
 charge being made. The building was erected at 
 a cost of £75,000 by the government, and the 
 first stone was laid in 1834. It consists of a 
 centre and two wings ; the whole length is four 
 hundred and sixty-one feet, and width fifty-six 
 feet, and occupies the whole of the north side of 
 Trafalgar Square ; it is an immense pile of build- 
 ing, but the appearance is not very pleasing, and 
 regular. The eastern wing is appropriated to the 
 Royal Academy of Arts, and the western wing for 
 the exhibition of pictures of the National Gallery. 
 
 The foundation of this latter Gallery was the 
 collection of Mr. Angerstein, a merchant, purchased 
 by government for ^60,000. and many additions 
 have been made to it since. The entrances to the 
 wings are from doors under the portico which 
 leads to a lobby, and ascending a staircase to the 
 left you find yourself in the exhibition rooms, 
 where many pictures painted in oil colours by 
 some of the best artists of former days are 
 deposited. Here a man fond of seeing the fine 
 arts will derive much pleasure ; the rooms are very 
 capacious and the pictures are very well arranged ; 
 benches are also placed in the rooms for the 
 
212 
 
 comfort of the visitors, and it is always thronged 
 by the people. A catalogue of all the particulars 
 is to be had at the place in which the subject, as 
 well as the names of each individual painting are 
 arranged in regular order. 
 
 In the western wing of the building is the 
 Royal Academy of Art, where a certain number of 
 young artists study their profession, they are 
 taught and their works are examined by an 
 eminent man called the President, appointed by 
 the government ; it was established at the Somer- 
 set House, 17^8, for the purpose of encouraging 
 English artists^ and is now removed to this 
 building. 
 
 The productions of these academicians are 
 annually exhibited to the public, commencing from 
 the first week in May, and terminating in July. 
 
 The pictures here exhibited are all new, as those 
 which have been once exhibited are not allowed 
 to be there again. There are also a large number 
 of miniature portraits, most exquisitely finished 
 and pleasing to the eye. The disposition of 
 rooms is the same as in the National Gallery," 
 and in a room on the ground floor are several 
 fine specimens of sculpture. 
 
 It is considered a great honor by the artists or 
 sculptors, whose productions are considered worthy 
 of exhibiting at this place, in consequence of which 
 they are excited to competition by which the art re - 
 ceives considerable attention by those who practise it. 
 
213 
 
 In the sculpture room we had the pleasure of 
 seeing the bust of our worthy friend Sir Charles 
 Forbes^ executed by Sir Francis Chantrey^ who is 
 said to be the best modern sculptor^ and we can 
 bear testimony as to its faithfulness. 
 
 The statue of Sir Charles which is to be erected 
 by the natives at Bombay, will^ we were informed, be 
 executed from the bust which was there placed to 
 test its accuracy of representation, and we con- 
 gratulate our countrymen, that should it be a true 
 copy of the bust, they will have the very picture 
 of Sir Charles. There were a great many busts and 
 statues of distinguished men in the room, the work- 
 manship of which we very much admired. 
 
 There is also in Pall Mall, the British Institu- 
 tion,^' the Gallery of a society of noblemen and 
 gentlemen encouragers of the Fine Arts, where 
 some very good paintings by British artists are 
 to be seen, at the payment of one shilling 
 each. 
 
 There are a great many other exhibitions in 
 London, but we were satisfied with viewing the 
 first three establishments. 
 
 It is to be lamented that there is no taste about 
 this excellent art among our countrymen, but in 
 England it is considered a great accomplishment ; 
 ladies almost generally learn to draw and sketch 
 in pencil and in oil and water colours, and it is 
 really a great source of amusement, and their 
 leisure hours are devoted to such occujjations, 
 which would have otherwise appeared tedious. 
 
214 
 
 besides how pleasant it must be for them to take 
 a sketch of a place they have once been to, to imitate 
 nature and beautiful scenery^ landscapes, flowers, 
 &c. ; we hope in conclusion^ that our countrymen 
 will evince a disposition to adopt all such 
 accomplishments, as we have described the Eng- 
 lish to possess, and which we cannot too strongly 
 recommend. 
 
 Miss Linwood^s exhibition of needle work in 
 Leicester Square, is a most extraordinary produc- 
 tion of human ingenuity, or rather application, it is 
 no less than an exhibition of sixty-four pictures 
 from the largest to the smallest size, containing 
 likenesses of man, animal, birds, landscape, sea 
 views, &c., all worked with the needle and coloured 
 woollen threads upon coarse linen fabric, by this 
 lady's own hands. 
 
 They are tasefully arranged in three rooms, two 
 of which are one hundred feet in length, and are 
 so well executed that they cannot be discovered 
 from real paintings at a short distance 5 the last 
 picture she finished about seven years ago, since 
 which she has given up working with them in 
 consequence of imperfection in eye sight. 
 
 At the two ends of the second large room are 
 two artificial caves and pictures of a lion and a tiger 
 are placed in it, which so exactly resemble life, 
 that we actually took them to have been stuflfed 
 and placed there for show. In the third room 
 there is a likeness of Christ, for which we were 
 informed she was offered £3000. We admired 
 
215 
 
 her perseverance very much^ it certainly does 
 great credit to her. The admission here is one 
 shilling, and catalogue sixpence. 
 
 In Leicester Square also there is Burford^s 
 Panorama, where we saw a representation of St. 
 Jean de Acre, and the bombardment of it by the 
 British fleet ; we saw many ships firing shots, and 
 the steamers throwing shells into the fort. The 
 scene we here beheld was awful, we observed some 
 of the Egyptian troops lying here and there killed, 
 and wounded, while others were busy in firing at 
 the ships. The blowing up of the powder maga- 
 zine, which was supposed to have taken place by 
 one of the shells from the steamers finding its way 
 into it, and which killed nearly 3000 Egyptians, it 
 was a terrible sight as we saw hands, legs, heads, 
 &C.5 of these unfortunate beings flung into the air. 
 The town of Acre also presented a galling and 
 heart-rending spectacle, it was a mass of ruin and 
 every house was shattered to pieces. 
 
 We noticed the Egyptians as fine and athletic 
 men, but not disciplined, because there was great 
 confusion and disorder. The panorama was very 
 well painted, particularly the ships and the sea : 
 we were very much pleased with it. They vary 
 the subjects frequently, and it is a far better 
 mode of representing a place than in a picture, as 
 from being on a large scale it admits of minute 
 delineation of objects. The price of admission is 
 one shilling. 
 
216 
 
 CHAPTER XVIL 
 
 PUBLIC BUILDINGS,, &C. 
 
 St. Paul's Cathedral. — We should have 
 previously mentioned St. PauFs Cathedral^ there 
 has been three edifices upon the same spot burned 
 down^ the last was in 1666. The present was 
 built from designs by Sir Christopher Wren, and 
 the first stone was laid in 1675 it is the principal 
 ornament of London and stands between Cheap- 
 side and Ludgate Hill close to the new Post office. 
 It is built of Portland stone and has a magnificent 
 dome one hundred and forty-five feet in diameter, 
 there are two turrets two hundred and twenty-two 
 feet high in one of which are the bells, and in the 
 other the clock, upon the top of the building are 
 statues of some of the saints of the christian 
 church, St. James, St. Peter, and others ; the 
 dome or cupola is most magnificent, the following 
 are the principal dimensions : — whole length of 
 the church and porch 500 feet; breadth within 
 the doors of the porticoes 250; breadth of the 
 west front with the turrets 180 ; breadth of the 
 
217 
 
 west front without the turrets 110 ; outward 
 diameter of the dome 145 ; inward diameter of 
 the same 108; height from the ground without 
 to the top of the cross 340 ; height to the top of 
 the highest statues on the front 135 ; height of 
 the lantern from the cupola to the ball 50 ; 
 diameter of the ball 6 ; height of the cross with 
 its ornaments below 6 ; circumference of the 
 building 2292. 
 
 The best place to get a good view of the dome 
 is from under the portico of the Post Office in St. 
 Martin's le grand, the best place inside to view 
 the paintings and the interior of the dome is from 
 the Whispering Gallery ; here if the door is shut 
 it resembles thunder^ and a low whisper breathed 
 against the wall can be most distinctly heard on 
 the opposite side of this immense circle by placing 
 your ear against the wall. 
 
 In the south turret is the clocks it is wound up 
 daily, and the outward dial (eighteen feet ten inches 
 in diameter) is regulated by a smaller one within- 
 side. The length of the minute hand is eight 
 feet and its weight seventy-five pounds. The 
 length of the hour hand is five feet five inches 
 and its weight forty-four pounds. The length of 
 the hour figures is two feet two and half inches. 
 The diameter of the great bell is about ten feet 
 and its weight is about eighty-five hundred weight 
 or nine thousand five hundred and twenty pounds. 
 In the direction of the wind its sound may be 
 
 L 
 
218 
 
 heard at the distance of very many miles. On 
 the bell are these words Richard Phelps made 
 me in 17 16 the quarter hours are struck on two 
 smaller bells. The great bell is never tolled, 
 except at the deaths and funerals of any of the 
 Royal Family^ the Bishop of London^ the Dean 
 of St. Pauls^ and the Lord Mayor, should he die 
 whilst he is Lord Mayor. And when tolled it is 
 the clapper and not the bell that is moved. 
 
 It is unnecessary for us to speak of the fine view 
 from the top of St. Pauls having alluded to it at 
 the magnificent view taken from this spot by Mr. 
 Horner. The powerful organ was built in 1694 
 by Schmydt a German, it was taken to pieces and 
 improved in 1802. 
 
 There are some monuments in the Chancel 
 erected by the country, one to a very charitable 
 good man of the name of John Howard who died 
 in 1790. Also to Dr. Johnson a very clever man 
 who died in 1784. One to Sir William Jones 
 who died at Bengal in 1794. And Sir Joshua 
 Reynolds, a celebrated painter, who died in 1792. 
 Very handsome monuments to Captains Mosse 
 and Riou killed in action near Copenhagen in 
 1801. Another to Major Dundas who died in the 
 West Indies in 1794. Another to Captain West- 
 cott killed in the Battle of the Nile in 1798. And 
 to Captain Burgess killed off Camperdown in 
 1797. A beautiful monument to Sir Ralph 
 iVbercrombie who fell in battle in Egypt, in 1801. 
 
219 
 
 Another to Lord Howe who died in 1799. A 
 most beautiful one to Marquis Cornwallis who 
 died in India in 1805. A very handsome one to 
 Lord Nelson who was killed in the battle of 
 Trafalgar in 1805^ and who was brought home 
 in his ship the Victory and buried here. There 
 are also monuments to Admiral Collingwood, 
 Lord Rodney and Sir John Moore, the General 
 who was killed at Corunna. 
 
 St. Paul's Cathedral is the most prominent 
 feature in all the views of London, its peculiar 
 cupola or dome catches your eye, look at London 
 from what point you may. And the only thing that 
 causes you to doubt the reality of the view of 
 London, that you see in the Coliseum, is that there 
 is no St. Paul's Church in it. We are quite 
 inclined as the final observation upon our visit to 
 this country to say, in the world there is but one 
 England, one London, one House of Commons, 
 one St. Paul's ; truly England is a wonderful place. 
 
 The Monument, is upon Fish Street Hill 
 and but a short distance from London Bridge, it 
 was built to commemorate the dreadful Fire of 
 London; was commenced in 1671 and was finished 
 in 167 7^ it is a fluted column of the Doric order 
 and is 202 feet high and has an iron balcony 
 upon the top, within the column are three hun- 
 dred and forty-five black marble steps and upon 
 paying sixpence you can ascend to the balcony, at 
 the top, and upon a clear day the view of London 
 
220 
 
 and the country around it, is very beautiful. 
 Three persons, two males and one female, have, 
 at different periods within the last few years, 
 throw^n themselves off from the top of the Monu- 
 ment, and of course killed themselves by the fall. 
 Upon three sides of the pedestal, at the bottom, 
 there are carved figures, or inscriptions, relative 
 to the great fire it was built to commemorate. 
 The Monument, as well as St. PauPs, forms a 
 very prominent part in the feature of London, 
 view it where you may. 
 
 The Thames Tunnel. — We paid a visit to 
 a most extraordinary operation which is going on 
 at Rotherhithe, which is nothing less than to 
 make a tunnel under the bed of the river Thames, 
 instead of a bridge, to allow carriages, horses, 
 cattle, and foot passengers to pass from the 
 Kentish to the Essex side of the river. To any 
 persons except Englishmen the work would have 
 presented insurmountable difficulties, and would 
 never have been attempted; but in 1802, a Cor- 
 nish miner having been selected for the purpose, 
 operations were commenced three hundred and 
 thirty feet from the Thames, on the Rotherhithe 
 side. Two or three different engineers were 
 engaged and the affair nearly abandoned, until, in 
 1809, when it was quite given up. 
 
 Some few years afterwards a celebrated en- 
 gineer, Mr. Brunei, the same person who contrived 
 the block machinery at Portsmouth, and the saw- 
 
221 
 
 mills at Chatham^ undertook to carry it on, and it 
 was proceeded with by means of an ingenious 
 shield that was moved forward with the workmen 
 upon it as fast as the brickwork arch was com- 
 pleted ; but having exhausted all the subscribed 
 capital public subscriptions were solicited, and in 
 the early part of 1824 a large sum was raised, 
 sufficient to enable them to proceed with the 
 excavation. 
 
 A powerful steam engine, to clear out the 
 springs of water, was erected, and drains were 
 sunk. In 1827 the river broke through the top 
 into the tunnel, but within a month clay was 
 thrown over the top, and all the water pumped 
 out. Several other similar casualties befel them, 
 and at length application was made to parliament 
 for assistance ; and before the expiration of this 
 present year, 1841, the Thames Tunnel will be 
 opened to the public, as they have now (March, 
 1841) got over all their difficulties, and have only 
 to sink a shaft, and to make the approaches on 
 the Wapping side of the river. The dimensions 
 of the Tunnel will be : — length, thirteen hundred 
 feet ; width, thirty-five feet ; height, twenty feet ; 
 clear width of each archway, including footpath, 
 about fourteen feet ; thickness of earth between 
 the crown of the Tunnel and bed of the river, 
 about fifteen feet. This will stand forth as one of 
 the most extraordinary productions ever effected 
 
222 
 
 by man, and a proud monument of British talent 
 and enterprize. 
 
 The Admiralty Office is situated near 
 Charing Cross^ between the Treasury and the 
 Horse Guards ; and all the transactions of the 
 Royal Navy, the appointments of the dock yards 
 and naval officers, as well as sending out ships in 
 time of war^ and the entire management of the 
 navy is here carried on under the authority of a 
 first lord and six other personages ; some of 
 v/hom, though not ennobled^ yet from the virtue 
 of their office are called Lords of the Admiralty. 
 
 The front recedes from the street^ and there 
 are two wings in connection with it by which a 
 small quadrangular yard is formed. The building 
 is not very handsome, but the interior is capacious 
 and convenient to contain the offices for secreta- 
 ries, clerks, and other branches of the depart- 
 ment. The side wings are appropriated to the 
 residence of the Lords of the Admiralty and the 
 Secretaries, and which are very large and com- 
 modious. 
 
 The first lord is always a minister of the crown^ 
 and is either a member of the House of Com- 
 mons or a peer, by which he has a right to sit in 
 the House of Lords. 
 
 Somerset House stands on the north bank 
 of the Thames, close to the Waterloo Bridge. 
 The old building was erected by the Duke of 
 
223 
 
 Somerset, who was for some years protector of 
 the throne of England. The present noble edi- 
 fice was erected by the government in the year 
 177^9 for the accommodation of several pubHc 
 offices, on the plan of Sir William Chambers, 
 The front consists of nine arches, and the entrance 
 to it from the Strand is through three open 
 arches. In going through the entrance the build- 
 ing presents a complete square, and we find our- 
 selves in an extensive paved court yard, in the 
 middle of which stands a colossal statue of King 
 George the Third. The appearance of the build- 
 ing from this place is very imposing and grand, 
 and shows the wealth of England. It is quite 
 worthy of the mighty city of London, and may 
 be ranked the first of all the public buildings. 
 
 Within this are the offices of the Surveyor of the 
 Navy, Stamps and Taxes, Navy Pay Office, Audit 
 Pay Office, the Poor Law Commissioners^ Office, 
 &c. &c. It will be seen that a large government bu- 
 siness is carried on in this truly splendid building. 
 The present surveyor of the navy is Sir William 
 Symonds, successor to Sir Robert Seppings, and 
 who has made important changes in the construc- 
 tion of ships, and the elliptic stern, which is now 
 generally adopted in the navy. All the ships in 
 the dock-yards are built upon the plan of the 
 surveyor. There are, connected with this depart- 
 ment, a great many clerks, draughtsmen, and 
 
224 
 
 other officials ; but the object most worthy of 
 observation is the Model Room^ to which admis- 
 sion may be had by applying to the surveyor^ or 
 his assistant. 
 
 We were very kindly permitted by Sir William 
 to go there at any time^ and we have often spent 
 our leisure hours in the Model Room. There are 
 two large rooms^ containing beautiful and correct 
 models of all the ships and many steamers that 
 have been built upon his plan ; two of which^ 
 ^' The Queen and the The Vanguard/^ are 
 very exquisitely finished. 
 
 There are sectional models of different ships^ 
 showing the manner of combining and fastening 
 together different parts of ships. Boats of all 
 descriptions^ and of a great many variety of forms^ 
 are to be seen here. The method of different 
 modes of rigging ships^ models of different sorts 
 of made masts and yards^ models of anchors^ 
 cables^ and all sorts of iron works that are neces- 
 sary in building and equipping a ship of war ; and 
 gun carriages of a variety of construction are de- 
 posited here in glass cases. Paddle wheels of every 
 invention^ with machines for various purposes^ 
 such as windlasses^ capstans^ &c. &c. are got up 
 with the greatest accuracy. There are also very 
 complete models of the block machinery at Ports- 
 mouthy made by Mr. Maudesley the engineer^ and 
 which are said to have cost two thousand pounds. 
 
225 
 
 These are working models^ and have been exhi- 
 bited at the Polytechnic Institution by the appli- 
 cation of steam. 
 
 All the things that will interest a naval archi- 
 tect^ or illustrate any branch of ship-buildings are 
 to be found here. Some very good specimens of 
 petrified wood^ ana specimens with foliage of all 
 sorts of timber from the four quarters of the 
 globe^ are systematically arranged^ which is ex- 
 tremely useful and instructive to one who is fond 
 of botanical pursuits. 
 
 The whole of these are valued at about a hun- 
 dred thousand pounds^, and additions are made 
 almost every day to this valuable and scientific 
 collection^ and an extension of rooms will be 
 necessary in a short time. We must here state 
 that it has been principally done by Sir William 
 Symonds^ who^ on being appointed to the sur- 
 veyorships made many augmentations to the 
 original collection, and caused it to be systemati- 
 cally arranged. It is now considered to be the 
 finest Model Room in the world. 
 . Before quitting this subject, we must be allowed 
 to offer our sincere thanks to the talented sur- 
 veyor, Sir William Symonds, and his excellent 
 and kind-hearted assistant, John Edye, Esq., for 
 the kindness and attention we have received at 
 their hands, and the valuable advice they gave us 
 as to the best mode of obtaining information in 
 our profession. 
 
 L 2 
 
226 
 
 The Tower op London. — The Tower of 
 London is upon the bank of the Thames^ on the 
 eminence called the Tower Hill ; it has a broad 
 piece of water round it^ and a drawbridge^ by 
 which you enter it. 
 
 The most ancient part is said to have been 
 built eight hundred years ago. Within these 
 walls persons called traitors^ or those who endea- 
 voured to promote rebellion, were kept in prison ; 
 and upon Tower Hill very many noblemen and 
 gentlemen were in ancient times beheaded for 
 treason. The Governor of the Tower is always 
 a man of some importance^ and the present go- 
 vernor is the Duke of Wellington. 
 
 The Horse Armoury in the Tower is well worth 
 inspection^ and all the former Kings and Queens 
 of England are here arranged in the regular chro- 
 nological order, on horseback. The representa- 
 tions of some of these are in the very armours 
 which they wore ; and we were here very forcibly 
 put in mind of^ once our own country^ Persia^ 
 v/here this iron clothing was made use of ; but 
 alas ! we have no remains of them^ all we know 
 is from historical works^ and here we were capable 
 of forming a distinct idea of what armour was. 
 Some of them were very beautifully inlaid with 
 gold, and the room where the equestrian figures 
 are deposited is one hundred and thirty feet long 
 and thirty feet wide, and the figures are about 
 twenty in number. 
 
227 
 
 The walls and ceilings of this room are very 
 beautifully decorated with a great many devices 
 formed principally with old implements of wars. 
 
 Queen Elizabeth^s Armoury is in the White 
 Tower^ and the walls of this building are seventeen 
 feet six inches in substance. Here we saw a great 
 many instruments of war, some of them of the 
 most torturing and cruel nature. 
 
 In another building is what is called the Train 
 of Artillery, which is nearly three hundred and 
 fifty feet, and a great many arms are deposited 
 here in large chests. In a portion, which is cut 
 off by a partition from the whole length of the 
 room, are a great many guns and cannons of brass 
 and iron, and some of them are very elaborately 
 cast. From this room you ascend a fine staircase, 
 which leads to a noble room three hundred and 
 forty-five feet in length. We were very much 
 struck with the appearance of this repository of 
 arms ; and the arrangement is so complete that it 
 is difficult to give a description of it: for here 
 are one hundred and fifty thousand arms, all 
 newly flinted and ready for immediate service ; 
 and this enormous quantity is so well disposed 
 that every one of them can be very easily got at. 
 The walls and the ceiling of this room are very 
 handsomely decorated with devices of old arms, 
 such as cutlasses, swords, pistols, &c., representing 
 stars, crowns, and many other pretty groups. 
 The perspective of the room, from one end to 
 
228 
 
 the other^ is also very beautiful^ and we were 
 quite repaid for our trouble in going to see the 
 Tower. 
 
 There is one part of the Tower to which the 
 public are admitted at the payment of one shil- 
 ling ; where the regalia, consisting of the crown 
 and the other various jewels that are and have 
 been used for coronations and other state occa- 
 sions in England are kept. 
 
 The crown made for her Majesty^s coronation 
 is also here, and a beautiful salt-cellar which is 
 used on the royal table at the day of the corona- 
 tion; it is a model of the tower, and is an excel- 
 lent piece of workmanship. The whole of the 
 jewellery in this room is valued at three million 
 pounds. The admission to the Horse Armoury is 
 one shilling, and proper persons are kept pur- 
 posely to conduct the visitors all round, and 
 acquaint them with the particulars of all that is 
 shown them. 
 
 We cannot conclude our journal without speak- 
 ing of that most useful and important institution, 
 called the Bank of England, which is not however 
 as many persons imagine a bank belonging to the 
 government, it is the property of such parties as 
 are the owners of bank stock, as it is called. 
 Originally when it was first established by royal 
 charter, 27th July, 1694, parties who were the 
 then proprietors, deposited certain sums of money 
 and received an acknowledgement for every £100. 
 
229 
 
 which acknowledgement is transferable and sold 
 in the public stock or money-market^ and 
 the persons who hold a certain number of 
 these securities are eligible to become Di- 
 rectors or Managers of the Bank^ and all per- 
 sons who hold any of this sort of property, are 
 entitled annually to vote for persons who are 
 qualified to fill the before named offices which are 
 as follows : — there is a governor, deputy-governor^ 
 and twenty-four directors. They give employment 
 to several hundreds of persons^ including cashiers^ 
 clerks, and porters. The bank is an immense pile 
 of buildings in Threadneedle Street, and is nearly 
 opposite to the Mansion House, at the bottom of 
 Cheapside, and facing the spot where the new 
 Royal Exchange is building for the meeting to- 
 gether of merchants for the transaction of their 
 daily business. The exterior walls of the Bank 
 measure three hundred and sixty-five feet on the 
 southern side ; four hundred and forty feet on the 
 western side ; four hundred and ten feet on the 
 northern side ; and two hundred and forty-five 
 feet on the eastern side. The charter was granted 
 to the Bank of England, in consequence of the 
 first proprietors lending £1,200,000. to the go- 
 vernment. The charter of the Bank of England 
 prohibits them from dealing in any goods or 
 merchandise, but they may deal in bills of 
 exchange, bulHon, foreign gold, silver coin, &c., 
 and may lend money on pawns or pledges, and sell 
 
230 
 
 all those which should not be redeemed within 
 three months after the time agreed upon. Within 
 the walls of the Bank^ are nine open courts:? 
 and a spacious rotunda^ which is a lofty apart- 
 ment fifty-seven feet in diameter terminating 
 in a dome. There is an armoury, a printing 
 office^ a library^ besides apartments for the chief 
 officers of the Institution^ and spacious offices 
 for the clerks in the different departments. At 
 the Bank the interest is paid upon the national 
 government debt which are called the stocks. It 
 is a magnificent building and the immense quantity 
 of money that is received and paid here daily 
 would exceed belief. 
 
 The General Post Office is one of the 
 largest public edifices now existing in the city of 
 London ; it is situated near where Cheapside and 
 Newgate Street unite, and there is more interest- 
 ing business carried on within its walls than in any 
 other building in the world. It is amusing to 
 think of the diversity of matter that must be con- 
 tained in the hundreds of thousands of letters 
 which pass through here every week, and now 
 they are considerably increased, as within the last 
 year it has been so arranged that a letter not 
 exceeding in weight half an ounce, may be sent to 
 any part of the United Kingdom for one penny, 
 if paid before hand, or for two-pence, if not paid 
 for until delivered. This is one of the greatest gifts 
 that a government ever bestowed upon the people ; 
 
231 
 
 persons can now write to all their friends and 
 relatives without feeling the heavy expense of 
 communication^ and we make no doubt that there 
 will soon be arrangements made^ that letters will 
 be able to be prepaid in India, as well as in Eng- 
 land, that persons in India may correspond with 
 their friends in England, without taxing them with 
 the expense of all the postage out and home, 
 
 The office of the Inland department, is a hall 
 85 ft. 6 in. in length, by 48 ft. 6 in. in breadth, 
 but including the office for paid letters, it would 
 be 101 ft. It is an institution doing credit to such 
 a country as England. 
 
232 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 RESIDENCE AT EGHAM AND VISITS TO WIND- 
 SOR AND FROGMORE LODGE. 
 
 Shortly after our settling at Egham^ we became 
 acquainted with a gentleman of the name of 
 Barras^ whose son was a midshipman in the Buck- 
 inghamshire^ who on one Sunday in November^ 
 was kind enough to take us to the Terrace at 
 Windsor, in order to see Her Majesty promenad- 
 ing in the gardens. We left our house at two in 
 the afternoon, in his own carriage, and drove to 
 the Castle, which at first sight appeared to us an 
 immense pile of building, and the appeararKie was 
 so imposing, that we could but gaze with wonder 
 and surprise upon this truly magnificent palace, 
 and we were lost in amazement how such a 
 stupendous work was achieved, and how much 
 time, labour, and money, it must have taken. 
 
 The Terrace is very large, extending the whole 
 breadth of the Castle, and is very tastefully laid 
 out in flower gardens and wide gravel walks. It is 
 
233 
 
 open to the public^ and is always thronged on 
 Sundays when the Queen resides there. 
 
 The Castle stands on an eminence, by w^hich it 
 commands a beautiful view several miles round. 
 On our going to the Terrace we saw a great 
 number of men, women, and children, in their 
 best clothes, walking about and enjoying the fresh 
 breeze. In the middle of the garden, a beautiful 
 fountain is playing constantly, and there are seats 
 provided for the royal band. At about half past 
 four the band (which was the best we had ever 
 seen) began to play, which announced the Queen^s 
 approach. 
 
 In a very few minutes we saw Her Majesty 
 coming on the Terrace, and every body ranged 
 themselves on both sides of the road to pay their 
 respects and have a peep at their youthful sove- 
 reign. She was plainly dressed, and we had the 
 honour and gratification of seeing of her. 
 
 She passed by close where we stood, and had in 
 attendance upon her, Lord Melbourne, and Lord 
 Falkland ; there were many others who were not 
 pointed out to us. We were of course steadfastly 
 and earnestly gazing upon the interesting face of 
 that young lady, who holds so high and im- 
 portant a post as the dueen of Great Britain, and 
 we were asking ourselves, whether she would not, 
 in all probability have been happier, had her lot 
 been to have passed through life as Princess 
 Victoria, without being called upon to fill the high 
 
234 
 
 responsible position she now does. When attracted 
 by seeing ns in our costume, she turned her head 
 and looked upon us, we made our salaams (an 
 Indian bow), but w^e received an answer in that 
 look, an answer to what had been passing in our 
 minds. 
 
 We saw in an instant that she was fitted by 
 nature for, and intended to be, a Queen ; we could 
 perceive a native nobility and expression about 
 her, which induced us to believe that she could, 
 although meek and amiable, be y?m and decisive^ 
 and that whether whigs or tories were the ministers 
 of the day, that she would still be the Queen and 
 have her own will and judge for herself. 
 
 We imagined no man or set of men would be 
 permitted by her to dictate a line of conduct, but 
 that knowing and feeling that she lived in the 
 hearts and affections of her people, that she would 
 endeavour to temper justice with mercy, and we 
 thought that if no unforeseen event (which God 
 forbid) arose to dim the lustre of her reign, that 
 the perod of her sway in Britain, would be quoted 
 as the golden age. 
 
 Shortly after she had passed us, one of the 
 attendants came to inquire who we were and what 
 country we came from, which we informed him, 
 but he returned again to say that Her Majesty 
 was pleased to know our names, and as we knew 
 the difficulty an Englishman has to pronounce 
 our names, we gave our cards to him which he 
 
235 
 
 handed to Lord Melbourne^ and no doubt were 
 read to Her Majesty, who did us the honour upon 
 reaching the end of the Terrace again to look upon 
 us, and what to her was the novelty, our costume. 
 
 We felt highly honoured in thus being noticed 
 by our gracious sovereign, the greatest in the 
 world, and we were highly delighted with the 
 loyalty which the English people present, evinced 
 towards Her Majesty, as we observed every in- 
 dividual that was on the Terrace take off their 
 hats, and pay proper respect and homage to her. 
 We returned to Egham in the evening, and 
 thanked our friend for his trouble and attention. 
 
 Egham is ^situated about eighteen miles from 
 London, and four miles from Windsor ; it is a quiet 
 and retired villagCj and the town extends about a 
 mile in length on the Great Western road, which 
 is a considerable thoroughfare to the western and 
 southern parts of England, and stage coaches to 
 Reading, Windsor, Exeter, Taunton, and a great 
 many other places pass through Egham ; we were 
 told that before railroads were introduced, more 
 than eighty coaches used to pass daily through 
 this village. 
 
 There are few shops, but sufficient to supply the 
 wants of the place; a church for the people to 
 perform their devotion in, and a circulating 
 library with a reading room is also established for 
 the lovers of literature ; we cannot indeed speak 
 
236 
 
 of it but with pleasure^ it shows that the people of 
 England have as much facility to acquire know- 
 ledge in a small village, as well as in a town of 
 considerable magnitude. 
 
 Egham also boasts of a most useful and chari- 
 table institution, founded by a Mr. Strode, about 
 the year 1704, it consists of almshouses for six 
 poor men, and the same number of women to 
 each of whom are allotted two rooms, with an 
 allowance of six shillings a week, and an annual 
 supply of coals and articles of clothing sufficient (if 
 taken care of) to carry them through the year. In 
 addition to which, there is a charity school where 
 about a hundred boys of the inhabitants of Egham 
 are instructed in reading, writing, and arithmetic, as 
 far as decimal fractions. Adjoining to the school 
 room, is a fine building as a residence for the 
 master, and the present master is our worthy in- 
 structor, the Rev. George Hopkins ; we have 
 frequently been to see the school, and were much 
 gratified to see the progress the boys were making 
 under his able superintendence, and the discipline 
 which he has introduced, and we think that these 
 children must in after life, become industrious and 
 sober men, in consequence of having had the 
 advantage of education. 
 
 The establishment is under the management of 
 the Cooper's Company, who are the trustees of 
 the charity fund; many improvements were made 
 
 ✓ 
 
237 
 
 while we resided at Egham^ six new almshouses 
 were built and a handsome gateway erected in the 
 front, enclosed with iron railings. 
 
 We consider this institution a great blessing to 
 the people of Egham, and especially to the poor 
 people, who could not spare any money to edu- 
 cate their children. 
 
 The locality of Egham is very interesting, on 
 account of the historical facts connected with it. 
 The famous spot, called the Runimead, is situated 
 on the north side of Egham, on the banks of the 
 river Thames ; and this was the place where King 
 John signed the great charter called the Magna 
 Charta, in the year 1215. 
 
 It appears that the King, by his tyranny, and 
 by encroaching upon the liberties of the people, 
 drove them to rebellion, and a great many of his 
 courtiers took up arms and demanded a reparation 
 of the injuries he had done them, and a confirma- 
 tion of their former rights and privileges, to 
 w^hich the King, much against his will consented, 
 and Runimead was the spot chosen for the people 
 and the King to meet, and here they had this 
 charter signed, which was the greatest era in the 
 history of England, as it was the foundation of 
 British liberty. A facsimile of the original char- 
 ter is deposited in the British Museum. The 
 meadow contains about one hundred and sixty 
 acres of ground, and serves as a race course. 
 
 The races take place every year, on the last 
 
238 
 
 Tuesday in August^ and the two following days, 
 when some good horses are to be seen. 
 
 Many noblemen and gentlemen from the neigh- 
 bourhood come to see them, and for whose accom- 
 modation booths are erected ; and some members 
 of the Royal Family also honor the races with their 
 presence, which, however, was not the case when 
 we were there. 
 
 Staines is an old and much larger town than 
 Egham, situated on the Middlesex side of the 
 Thames, and about a mile and a half eastward of 
 Egham. 
 
 Staines Bridge is constructed of stone, and is a 
 beautiful structure. It consists of many arches, 
 three only of which are passable for barges. 
 
 The celebrated Cooper^s Hill stands on the 
 west side of Egham, and commands one of the 
 finest views, including the town of Windsor and 
 the castle, and the height affords a varied and 
 romantic prospect to the eye. 
 
 St, Ann^s Hill is also a very noted place, and 
 Mrs. Fox, the wife of the noted statesman, resides 
 there in a beautiful mansion. We once went to 
 see it, and were amply repaid with the romantic 
 scenery we beheld from the top of it ; the height is 
 considerable, and a carriage can be driven to the 
 summit, through a steep road which leads to it. 
 
 In the month of August, accompanied by our 
 tutor, Mr. Hopkins, who procured admission for 
 us, we went to see Frogmore Lodge, the then 
 
239 
 
 residence of Her Royal Highness the Princess 
 Augusta^ sister to the late King, and aunt to her 
 present Majesty, Queen Victoria. It is situated 
 on the high road which leads from London to 
 Windsor. The house has a neat appearance, with 
 a handsome portico, and a semicircular drive in 
 the front of it. On entering the front door we 
 ascended a flight of beautiful steps railed with 
 brass, and richly carpeted. We were very 
 kindly received by Miss Wright, a lady of her 
 Royal Highness^ household, and a friend to our 
 tutor. She conducted us to the drawing room, 
 which was very beautifully fitted up; the sofas 
 and chairs were covered with silk, and we saw 
 many beautiful paintings, principally portraits, of 
 the Royal Family, in this room. 
 
 The adjoining room was the Princess' sitting 
 room, and where she was then present. We were 
 desired by Miss Wright to wait where we were 
 till she had procured permission from her Royal 
 Highness to view the house and the gardens. In 
 a few minutes, to our great surprise, we found her 
 coming out of the room with her Royal Highness, 
 who, she said, had expressed a desire to see us. 
 We were then introduced to her, and had the 
 high honor of conversing with her about five 
 minutes. She particularly inquired after our 
 healths, and seemed much interested with our 
 costume ; she then very kindly gave us the per- 
 mission to see the house and the gardens. We 
 
240 
 
 were then conducted through a great many rooms, 
 all of which had some objects of attraction, such 
 as paintings, musical instruments, old-fashioned 
 furniture, and other things, all costly and elegant. 
 
 The library was very good; it was a room 
 about sixty feet in length and half as wide, and 
 the walls were covered with valuable books from 
 top to bottom. 
 
 We then walked in the gardens, a large piece 
 of ground, which is laid out in lawns and gravel 
 walks with shady trees on both sides of them ; 
 and some antique vase, or a pillar of any ruins, 
 placed here and there to give effect. 
 
 There is also a piece of water, and a part of the 
 ground is laid out in flower gardens. 
 
 Here we would wish to remark that we were 
 disappointed with the gardens in England. We 
 have seen some which our English friends would 
 call beautiful, but to us they appear more like a 
 wood; because they are principally laid out in 
 lawns, flower gardens, and trees which bear no 
 fruit. 
 
 The arrangement is not like the gardens in 
 Bombay : there we have fruit trees standing in 
 the middle at certain distances, and vegetables 
 growing between them ; then the narrow gravel 
 walks having plants of rose, jessamine, and many 
 other scented flowers, on both sides, give a pretty 
 and varied effect, and the trees in blossom or 
 fruit, and the flowers of various colours, in bloom. 
 
241 
 
 heighten the beauty. To walk here in the lull and 
 quiet of a beautiful moonlight nighty the gentle 
 and cool breeze and the fragrance of the rose or 
 jasmine, or the lilly of the valley is extremely 
 refreshing, and is the most pleasant enjoyment we 
 have. In vain have we longed for such a night 
 in England, and we have been reminded very 
 often, w^hen thinking upon this point, of our dear 
 native land. 
 
 In England on the contrary flowers and fruits 
 are grown in separate pieces of ground, the latter 
 very often of one particular sort, so that when the 
 season is over, they present a dull appearance, 
 which is not the case in India, in consequence of 
 the arrangements we have just mentioned. 
 
 The fruit in this country is not so good as in 
 India, there is not the powerful sun to bring it to 
 the same perfection, and of all we liked the pears, 
 greengages, raspberries and strawberries best ; the 
 English however by their industry contrive to 
 grow foreign fruits such as grapes, pine-apples, 
 oranges, &c. in hot-houses, which are nothing 
 more than light buildings glazed all round, in 
 which a fire is kept in winter to preserve a uni- 
 form temperature, but the grapes are not so 
 good as those imported from Spain and Portugal. 
 Very fine oranges are also imported from these 
 countries in large quantities, they are sold very 
 cheap and are very sweet and wholesome ; in the 
 months of February and March they are to be got 
 
 M 
 
242 
 
 in perfection^ and^ in addition to those sold by the 
 fruiterers, poor people sell them almost in every 
 corner of the streets in London. Flowers in 
 England are very good but not scented, nor is 
 there the profusion of that delightful flower the 
 rose^ as in India ; we left Frogmore highly delight- 
 ed with the honour we had of conversing with 
 the illustrious Princess and with the distinction 
 she conferred upon us. 
 
 We have since learned with much regret the 
 death of her Royal Highness, by which the 
 neighbourhood is deprived of one of the most 
 benevolent personages, as she was extremely kind- 
 hearted and charitable, and many poor people 
 were subsisting upon her bounty ; it may not be 
 amiss here for us to inform our countrymen that 
 this princess was never married, she died at the 
 age of seventy-two, but she did not look quite so 
 old when we saw her ; she was plainly dressed in 
 blue silk, without any profusion of jewels or other 
 valuable things. 
 
 We then proceeded to Virginia Water, which is 
 an artificial lake, said to be the largest of the kind in 
 the kingdom. It is about two miles from Egham 
 and is perfectly secluded from the high road. 
 The entrance to it is from an Inn called the 
 Wheatsheaf, where admission to it is easily ob- 
 tained ; a road or rather a foot-path through an 
 intricate but a romantic wood leads to it, and the 
 boundary of the water is so judiciously con- 
 
243 
 
 cealed from the sight that we imagine it a large 
 river. 
 
 The neighbourhood is very fine, the verdant 
 walks, the variegated surface of the ground, and 
 the woodland scenery agreeably relieve the eye. 
 On the water is kept a royal yacht called the 
 Royal Adelaide" completely masted, rigged, and 
 in readiness to set sail at the shortest notice. 
 She was constructed for King William the Fourth 
 by the present talented surveyor. Sir William 
 Symonds, and was built and launched on the spot 
 by our worthy friend John Fincham, Esq. who 
 had the honor of dining with the King on the 
 evening of the launch, and has received a hand- 
 some plate as a token of His late Majesty^s 
 approbation of the ability and skill with which he 
 completed the vessel, we are told that it is the 
 model of the Pique thirty-six gun Frigate. The 
 Queen or any other member of the Royal Family, 
 now and then take a sail in this vessel, on the 
 lake ; she is very conveniently and richly fitted up 
 for the reception of the illustrious personages. 
 
 Here is also the long boat of the Victory, Lord 
 Nelson's Flag Ship in the Battle of Trafalgar, and 
 there are other boats kept in readiness for fishing 
 and the amusement of the Royal Family. On one 
 side of the water is a wooden building called the 
 Fishing Temple, its appearance is altogether very 
 fanciful and is more like Chinese architecture than 
 any thing else. The inside is fitted up as a dining 
 
244 
 
 and a sitting room and was the favourite resort of 
 George the Fourth^ who was a great patron to this 
 beautiful place. He caused an artificial ruin to be 
 placed here which has a pretty effect, but it does 
 not excite that solemn reflection in our minds as a 
 real ruin^ which stands upon the site where it has 
 for years withstood and defied the elements in all 
 its former glory, and we now behold it withered 
 and decayed by the unrelenting hands of Time. 
 
 There is also a beautiful artificial cascade and 
 the walks about it are very verdant. It is an ex- 
 cellent place for the Lovers of Solitude, as here 
 nothing is heard but the noise of the waterfall, 
 and the chirping of the birds. We were very 
 much pleased with our visit to this place, and re- 
 turned home in the evening, well repaid for the 
 trouble we had taken. 
 
 Before we left Egham we had been to Windsor 
 Castle and we only saw the public apartments, as 
 a permission is required from the Lord Chamber- 
 lain to view the private apartments. We have 
 subsequently been fortunate enough to see them 
 through the kindness of our friend T. Baldock, 
 Esq., who procured the required order for us, and 
 we have given a description of the whole in 
 another part of this work. 
 
 We quitted Egham on the 24th of September, 
 1839, being exactly a twelvemonth since we took 
 up our abode here, and we can with much pleasure 
 speak of this quiet village. 
 
245 
 
 The inhabitants are though few yet very re- 
 spectable and honest, and we know from our 
 having seen other places, that Egham, from its 
 retired situation, is free from many of the vices 
 and corruptions to which large towns and sea- 
 ports are subject. 
 
 We forgot to mention that we had our tutor^s 
 brother, Mr. Joseph Hopkins, living with us, 
 during the time we were under his superinten- 
 dence. He is an excellent penman, and by 
 following his directions we improved our hand- 
 writing very much, and by constantly conversing 
 with him we made a more rapid progress in the 
 English language than we otherwise might have 
 done, in addition to which he was a most agreeable 
 companion. 
 
246 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 CHATHAM DOCK YARD. 
 
 We paid a visit to the Queen's Dock Yard at 
 Chatham^ accompanied by our kind friend John 
 Seppings, Esq., who introduced us to Mr. Stone, 
 the then master shipwright, and Messrs. Moore 
 and Laire, the assistant master shipwrights. We 
 w^ent from London Bridge by a steam boat to 
 Gravesend for two shiUings each, and from Graves- 
 end to Chatham in a very easy van as they called 
 it, for two shillings each. The ride from London 
 to Chatham by the coach is very beautiful; the 
 view from Shooters^ Hill and from Dartford Hill, 
 is very fine, and the view from Northfleet to 
 Gravesend of the Thames, with the never failing 
 supply of ships and vessels saiUng thereon, is most 
 pleasing. In all England we are told there is not 
 a prettier ride than from Gravesend to Chatham. 
 Upon the top of Stroud Hill, the view of the 
 towns of Stroud, Rochester, Chatham, and Bromp- 
 ton, with the river Medway, the Barracks, the 
 Naval Hospital, and the Dock Yard and Gun 
 
247 
 
 Wharf is very good^ added to which, that tine 
 old building Rochester Castle, the Cathedral, 
 and the Bridge, and Baths, and the pretty 
 Church of Frendsbury, on the left hand with St, 
 Margaret's, Rochester, on the right, and towering 
 above all the ramparts and fortifications of Chat- 
 ham^ the Citadel ; all these combined, present as 
 beautiful a sight of its sort, as is to be met with. 
 We have subsequently rode over this ground 
 always with pleasure and often. When we are in 
 Bombay, will our thoughts return to those who are 
 dwelling within the view that is to be seen from 
 Stroud Hill. 
 
 Nearly all the roads out of London^ after you 
 have got out of the smoke of London, present 
 very fine views, and then the roads are so good* 
 that with the good horses and carriages you almost 
 appear to fly over them, so swiftly and easily do you 
 pass along. We were very much pleased with our 
 visit, and we aferwards resided and studied our 
 profession of shipbuilding there, under the able in- 
 struction of John Fincham, Esq., who became the 
 master shipwright upon the death of Mr, Stone. 
 We have, therefore, thought it proper to procure 
 as correct an account as we could of that large 
 naval establishment. 
 
 This celebrated Dock Yard which has been 
 considerably enlarged, and received many addi- 
 tional improvements within these few years, occu- 
 pies an extensive area on the south east bank of 
 
248 
 
 the river Medway. Including the Ordnance 
 wharf^ it measures about a mile in lengthy and is 
 surrounded by a high wall, and defended on the 
 land side by strong fortifications^ principally of 
 modern origin. The entrance is by a spacious 
 gateway, over which are the royal arms, flanked 
 by embattled towers. The houses of the captain^ 
 superintendant, and of the principal officers, are 
 large and handsome buildings, and the various 
 offices for managing the different departments of 
 the yard, especially those which were erected in 
 1811, for the principal clerks and officers, are 
 extremely neat and commodious, and well become 
 the opulence of the English nation, and the im- 
 portance of the navy. In the storehouses, one of 
 which is 660 ft. in length, are deposited prodigious 
 quantities of sails, rigging, hemp, pitch, tar, resin, 
 and all other necessaries for the equipment and 
 building of ships. The coils of cordage, and of 
 chain cables, the heaps of blocks, and innumer- 
 able articles requisite for the service, are arranged 
 in exact order, so that in times of emergency, they 
 can all be taken out without confusion, and every 
 department being under the superintendance of 
 proper officers, the business is so much accelerated 
 that even a first rate man of war, has often been 
 equipped for sea in a few weeks. The principal 
 mast house is nearly 240 ft. long, and 120 ft. 
 wide ; some of the masts deposited here are 3| ft. 
 in diameter, and 40 yards in length ; the timbers 
 
249 
 
 to form the masts^ are constantly kept floating in 
 two spacious basins constructed for that purpose. 
 The new rope house is 1110 ft. long, and nearly 
 50 ft. wide, in which cables of all dimensions are 
 twisted, some of which are 120 fathom long, and 
 22 inches in circumference; the labour of making 
 these cables is partly executed by machines. 
 
 The sail loft is 'JO yards long, and the other 
 workshops are of proportional extent. The wet 
 docks are four in number, all of which are suffi- 
 ciently capacious for first rates, two of which are 
 roofed over. There is also a stone dock upon a 
 much larger scale than any of the others. There 
 also are six slips on which new ships are constantly 
 built, all of which have roofs over them that cost 
 about £8000. each. The smithes shop (where 
 anchors of all sizes, some of which weigh nearly 
 five tons, are constantly made) contains about 
 forty forges ; the fires are blown by a blast of air 
 from a wheel turned swiftly in an adjoining build- 
 ing. The dock yard chapel built for the accom- 
 modation of the officers, artificers, and ship- 
 wrights and their families, was completed in 1811, 
 and is reported to have cost upwards of £9000. 
 It is a neat plain structure of brick, and the interior 
 is extremely light, elegant, and pleasing. 
 
 The Royal dock yards are all of them similarly 
 supplied with an abundance of valuable timber 
 and stores, but as we had constant daily oppor- 
 tunities of visiting Chatham yard, we are more 
 
 M 2 
 
250 
 
 conversant with that than any other of the yards ; 
 and we could not but observe with great pleasure^ 
 the disposition that has been shewn by the 
 Admiralty of late years to get froin every quarter 
 of the world timber of all description^ to test which 
 is the best adapted for ship building purposes. 
 They have had oak timber from Italy, from Istria 
 and from Styria for timbers of ships, and from 
 Dantzic and Memel oak plank for bottom, this 
 last is imported from three to six inches thick, is 
 free from knots and is of hard texture and very 
 durable ; a great deal of the Italian oak is large 
 and nicely formed for ship^s timbers, and the 
 Istrian oak, for building steam vessels, the prettiest 
 small compass timber that was ever seen and 
 appears to be of good texture. There are also 
 several sorts of Larch, Italian, Polish and North 
 American or Hackmetak. A merchant ship of 
 near five hundred tons came to Chatham twice, 
 whilst we were there, built in Prussia of Polish 
 Larch, by the person who was her captain, she 
 had been fourteen years employed since she was 
 built, had never had any repairs done to her, and 
 was quite as sound and good as when built. The 
 Polish Larch is coarse looking timber, but the 
 knots are well collared, and it appears well 
 adapted for ship building. The Italian Larch is 
 of a finer grain, freer from knots, but we know 
 nothing of its durability. The Hackmetak Larch 
 was small and straight and did not bear a compa- 
 
251 
 
 rison with Italian or Polish Larch. There was 
 also a large quantity of African timber, by some 
 misnamed Teak, it is a hard reddish wood, straight 
 or compass, it appears to be very durable, but 
 with great loss upon its conversion, and it is un- 
 pleasant timber to have to do with, for sometimes 
 without exhibiting any symptoms of decay on 
 the outside, there will upon sawing it be found 
 hollow places witliin the log, large enough for a 
 man to lie down in. It is however useful for bitts, 
 for beams, and loamings of hatchways. It is also 
 useful for steps of ladders on board ships, for pillars, 
 &c. There is also another timber called pitch 
 Pine from Savannah, when it is good it is very 
 durable, but it is full of a hot resinous substance, 
 that as soon as the tree is past its prime appears, 
 if not cut down then, to eat up and destroy all 
 the fabric. It is of uncertain quality, and not a 
 pleasant timber to convert for that reason. They 
 are also using a very curious timber from New 
 Zealand, called Cowdie, the trees are very large, 
 some of them being sixty to seventy feet long, 
 and from twenty to twenty-four inches in diameter 
 and holding seventeen inches at the top end. It 
 has no knots and is capital for topmasts, and for 
 cutting in planks for steam vessels, as it can be 
 worked in long shifts. After all we have seen we 
 think there is nothing like Teak, and if the 
 British Government do not build ships in India, 
 we wonder they do not import Indian Teak. It 
 
252 
 
 is almost everlasting^ and although the first cost ap- 
 pears high it would be cheaper to use it at any 
 price that it might cost. 
 
 A fourteen horse power engine drives the 
 machine at the ropery, for winding each thread of 
 the yarn as it is spun and passed through hot tar^ 
 as well as four capstans for forming the strands^ 
 that is a number of yarns pass through a tube^ 
 and are connected to a machine called " an equal- 
 iser,^^ which gives the proper twist and compres- 
 sion to the said strands, preparatory to closing 
 three of them together into one rope. 
 
 In a building close to the ropery is what is 
 called " the lead mill/^ where leaden pipes as well 
 as sheet lead is manufactured by machinery, 
 driven by a beautiful engine of twenty horse 
 jjower. For carrying on the process, lead pipes 
 are first cast in pieces of two or three feet in 
 length, having an iron rod equal to the diameter 
 of the bore passing through them, they are then 
 removed to what is called " drawing triblet,^^ 
 which consists of a strong cast iron frame fitted 
 with appropriate machinery, which carries the 
 pipes backwards and forwards ; square pieces of 
 iron, (called dies), having holes of graduated size, 
 are fixed to this triblet, through which the pipes 
 successively pass till they arrive at the required 
 thickness, which governs the length of the pipes, 
 varying from fourteen to twenty-two feet. 
 
 Sheet lead is manufactured by first casting a 
 
253 
 
 large thick piece of lead, and passing it between 
 two iron rollers, which exert an enormous pressure 
 against it, and expand it every way at each 
 revolution ; the distance between these rollers 
 diminishes gradually and by this means the lead 
 is framed into a sheet of any required size. 
 
 In addition to this work, the same engine pro- 
 pels the machinery in an adjoining part of the 
 building, where paint is manufactured ; dry white 
 lead is first bruised under heavy stone rollers, and 
 afterwards sifted; it is then put into the mill with 
 a sufficient quantity of oil to be mixed to a cer- 
 tain consistency, ready for the grinding stones. 
 
 The advantage of substituting steam power for 
 manual labour is here admirably illustrated ; it 
 will be seen that an engine of twenty horse power 
 does as much work as would require six or seven 
 times as much men to perform. 
 
 At the north-east extremity of the Dock- yard 
 stands a new work, called the Saw Mills, projected 
 and executed by that excellent and talented engi- 
 neer, Mr. Brunei, who has done more for the me- 
 chanical arts than any man living, and who is the 
 constructor of the Thames Tunnel and the Block 
 Machinery at Portsmouth Dock Yard. The saw 
 mills, as their name imports, are for the purpose 
 of converting timber into planks or boards for 
 the various purposes of ship-building, and the 
 general service of the yard. 
 
 The building is erected on an eminence, thirty- 
 five feet above the level of the lowest part of the 
 
254 
 
 yard, and the operation of conversion is performed 
 by the agency of steam. The mill is on an ex- 
 tensive scale, and the mechanism may be reduced 
 to three principles : — 
 
 First, — That the saw is drav/n up and down, as 
 long as is necessary, by a motion communicated to 
 the wheel. Second, — That the piece of timber to 
 be cut is advanced by an uniform motion to re- 
 ceive the stroke of the saw, and not the saw to 
 follow the wood. Third, — That when the saw has 
 cut through the whole length of the timber, the 
 whole machine stops of itself, and remains im- 
 moveable ; lest, having no obstacle to surmount, 
 the moving power should turn the wheel with too 
 great a velocity, and injure the machinery. 
 
 The room in which the saws are worked is 
 ninety feet square, and covered with a light roof 
 of wood and wrought iron, which contributes 
 much to the internal beauty of the place. In 
 this room there are eight saw frames and three 
 circular saw benches, besides the capstans for 
 supplying the frames with the wood, by drawing 
 the pieces from the outside of the mill to the side 
 of the saws. 
 
 These frames are entirely independent of each 
 other, and are capable of carrying from one to 
 twenty-four sav/s; the number of saws put into 
 one frame will depend on the number of cuts that 
 are to be made, and may be arranged at different 
 distances, according to the thickness required. 
 
 The supplying the saws vvith timber may l)e 
 
255 
 
 regulated at pleasure according to the nature of 
 the wood or the number of cuts, though the saws 
 always make the same number of strokes^ viz. 
 eighty in a minute. The drags which convey the 
 timber to the saws^ besides their progressive, have 
 a retrograde, motion, and roll backwards when the 
 timber is cut. There are likewise various inge- 
 nious contrivances for holding the timber while it 
 is sawn, and also for following the natural bend of 
 the wood when requisite. 
 
 Two of the saw frames are appropriated to deal 
 slitting, an operation which is performed with 
 amazing rapidity and the greatest precision. We 
 have seen at one frame two deals ten feet in 
 length, slit into four boards in the short space of 
 ten minutes ; and the two frames have produced 
 in six days (working only seven hours and a 
 quarter each day) thirty-four thousand superficial 
 feet of timber. 
 
 The whole of this machinery, together with 
 the three circular saws^ are propelled by an engine 
 of thirty-six horse power; wedges, and other 
 light work for joiner?^ are cut by the circular 
 saws. In an adjoining room are lathes for turn- 
 ing brass and iron work for capstans,, windlasses^ 
 treenails, and all kinds of metal and wood re- 
 quired for the service. 
 
 Some very extensive waterworks are connected 
 with this steam engine ; iron pipes are laid at differ- 
 ent parts of the yard, and on them^ at certain dis- 
 tances, are fixed cocks^ which^ when required^ 
 
256 
 
 throw streams of water above the highest build- 
 ings* From these pipes all the offices and houses 
 in the yard are supplied with water; and there 
 are also pipes at the river side to supply the ships 
 in ordinary with this necessary article of clean- 
 liness. 
 
 Necessity is the mother of invention ; the saying 
 is well exemplified in the instance of the saw-mills. 
 We have stated that the building stands on an 
 eminence, which made it very laborious and ex- 
 pensive for logs of timber to be brought to the 
 saw mills from other parts of the yard for conver- 
 sion. This defect engrossed the mind of the 
 ingenious constructor of the mills, and led him to 
 invent one of the simplest and prettiest pieces of 
 mechanism we ever saw, and which has com- 
 pletely remedied the imperfection. 
 
 The ground on the north side of the mill is 
 appropriated to the stowage of timber. Rafts are 
 floated from the river by means of a canal, which 
 runs open about two hundred and fifty feet, and, 
 on entering the rising ground, becomes a tunnel 
 about three hundred and thirty feet in length, 
 and opens into an elliptical basin which is in 
 length ninety feet; breadth, seventy-two; and 
 depth, forty-four. 
 
 The operation of raising the timber from this 
 basin is worthy of observation, and the steady, 
 though quick motion, with which it ascends, is 
 truly astonishing. We have witnessed a balk, 
 "sixty feet long and sixteen inches square, raised 
 
257 
 
 to the top of the standard, sixty feet, in the short 
 space of twenty seconds ! merely by the waste or 
 condensed water being allowed to run into an 
 iron vessel, to outweigh the timber. It is then 
 farther hfted by two cranes, given motion to by a 
 vibrating rod connected with the steam engine, 
 and, when suspended on the said cranes (which 
 are portable, and weigh about nine tons each 
 without the load), the logs are transported to any 
 of the stacks alongside of a railroad eight hun- 
 dred and twenty-eight feet long, having an inclina- 
 tion of two feet ten inches in every hundred feet; 
 so that its own gravity takes it down, and it 
 is brought back by means of an iron chain wind- 
 ing round a large drum, which is moved by the 
 engine. The speed with which it runs down with 
 the loads is uncertain, but is moved back at the 
 rate of three miles an hour. 
 
 There is a tank over each wing of the saw-mill 
 building to receive the water when raised, fifty- 
 seven feet long, thirty-two feet wide, and two feet 
 deep ; and they each hold about 22,500 gallons of 
 water. 
 
 Besides supplying the yard and the ships with 
 water, this engine has to supply the same to the 
 Royal Marine Barracks, Naval Hospital, and 
 Infantry, or Chatham Barracks ; these establish- 
 ments at least consume from three to four hun- 
 dred tons of water. / 
 
 There is also a fifty horse power engine for 
 pumping the docks, which works a pump of four 
 
258 
 
 feet in diameter^ which dehvers about fifty-five 
 cwt. of water per stroke; the strokes are from 
 twelve to fourteen per minute. 
 
 In the same building is a twenty ^horse power 
 engine^ as a substitute, should anything happen 
 to the above engine ; it has two pumps, one of 
 twenty-eight inches and the other of twenty-two 
 inches, to drain the docks. This engine is also 
 adapted to give motion to a three barrel engine 
 pump for the fresh water, which will produce the 
 same effect as the saw-mill engine. 
 
 The fans for blowing the smithy fires are 
 driven also bv this enojine at the rate of one thou- 
 sand revolutions per minute ; and it drives a large 
 volume of air, through proper passages under 
 ground, to the smith's shops and the quantity is 
 regulated by valves fitted into the tubes. This 
 has been a very great iitiprovement and all the dock 
 yards now have been or are about to be supplied 
 with the blasting machine, the smithy is ren- 
 dered delightfully cool and pleasant by the 
 constant current of fresh air, which makes it 
 much more healthy for the people to work in. 
 
 The mould loft is a very capacious room with 
 a fine even deal floor of three inches in thickness 
 and coated over with black paint ; this is the place 
 where moulds for the various component parts of 
 ships are made, and the true size, form and the 
 dimensions of them are delineated for the guidance 
 of the builder, which process is called laying 
 off \^ it requires great nicety and sufficient practice 
 
259 
 
 to lay off a ship on the mould-loft floor^ as it is 
 the very foundation from which the ship is built, 
 and the excellency of a design may be entirely 
 lost through neglect in this department. 
 
 No one can be called a good practical ship- 
 wright, unless he has a thorough knowledge in 
 this branch of the practice of naval architecture, 
 as the economy of material greatly depends on it. 
 We should here observe that great care is taken 
 in the Royal Dock Yard in laying off a ship, and 
 well acquainted persons are intrusted with it. 
 There are two persons at Chatham to delineate the 
 lines and two to make moulds, apprentices are also 
 sent to the loft to be instructed in "laying off,^^ 
 and the whole work is most admirably carried on. 
 
 The Frigate Meeander of 46 guns, which had 
 been standing on the slip 16 years, was ordered 
 by the Admiralty to be launched, and the 5th of 
 May was the day our friend John Fincham, Esq. 
 appointed for it. We were very glad in having 
 thus had the opportunity of witnessing the Eng- 
 lish mode of fitting the launching apparatus. The 
 principal dimensions of the Mseander are — 
 
 Ft. In. 
 
 Length on the range of the deck - 159 0 
 Do. of the keel for tonnage - 133 2^ 
 
 Breadth extreme - - - 41 5 
 Do. moulded - - - 40 9 
 
 Depth in hold - - - 13 6 
 
 Burthen in tons No 1215 || 
 
260 
 
 Before we give an account of the launch, 
 we think it will be interesting to our readers to 
 have a brief description of the principle on which 
 the launching of a ship depends. 
 
 It is well known that the first process of build- 
 ing a ship is to lay down the keel on blocks about 
 four or five feet apart, and with an inclination of 
 five-eighths of an inch to a foot, but this is not the 
 general rule, because local circumstances may 
 require a little variation. The keel is the founda- 
 tion on which frames are erected, which are planked 
 both inside and out to combine the whole into one 
 common mass ; to keep the two sides together, and 
 to give security to the whole fabric, beams are 
 thrown across, resting their ends on a longitudinal 
 tie called the shaft pieces, which run all round, and 
 are firmly secured to the sides, the beam ends are 
 bolted through another tie called waterways, which 
 lay on them, and against the sides to which they are 
 secured with iron or copper bolts, thus the bolts 
 for the beam ends pass through the waterway, the 
 beam and shelf, on the lower part of which they 
 are clenched on a ring. 
 
 When the keel is in its place the frames are 
 gradually raised, and shores or posts are erected to 
 keep the fabric in its position and to sustain the 
 weight. 
 
 Now at the time of launching, the question is, 
 to remove the shores and to find out some means 
 to balance the ship and to sustain her weight, and 
 
261 
 
 that support must be moveable in order to sustain 
 the ship, while in the act of descending downwards, 
 till she is received by the water. 
 
 To effect this, therefore, two inclined planes, one 
 on each side are constructed parallel to and at 
 about one-third the distance of the half breadth of 
 the ship from the centre line of the keel, and 
 extend in length from the fore extremity of the 
 ship, to as low down as the ebb tide will permit, 
 in order to support the vessel in her descent. 
 
 The surfaces of these planes (technically called 
 sliding-planks) are about two feet below the body 
 of the ship, amidships, and their inclination from 
 about three-quarters of an inch to an inch and a 
 quarter. Their breadth is guided by the size of 
 what are called the bilgeways ; these are as- 
 semblages of timber connected together from about 
 fifteen inches to two feet square, and in length a 
 little more than two-thirds of the length of the 
 vessel. When the inclined planes are ready, the 
 bilgeways are laid upon them parallel to the 
 keel, and square ribbons are brought outside of 
 them at a very small distance, say, about three 
 quarters of an inch, and firmly secured to the 
 sliding plank. 
 
 Now, the space between the upper part of the 
 bilgeways and the bottom of the vessel, is filled 
 up with solid pieces of wood of short length, but 
 as the space considerably exceeds at the extre- 
 mities, square pieces of timber called poppets are 
 
262 
 
 introduced there in a vertical position^ with a three 
 or four inch plank under their heels^, and the heads 
 or upper ends secured to the bottom by letting 
 them into a plank screwed to the sides for the 
 purpose. These poppets should be sufficiently near 
 each other to receive the pressure. 
 
 The whole of this apparatus is called the cradle" 
 or the moveable support^ having the bilgeways 
 for the base^ and with which the ship will eventu- 
 ally glide down into the water. 
 
 It should be observed^ that wedges (called slices) 
 are introduced between the bilgeways and planks 
 under the poppets, as well as between the bilge- 
 ways and the solid pieces amidships, in order 
 that the whole work may be set closer together, 
 and to take off a part of the weight from the 
 blocks under the keel previous to their being split 
 out. When the whole of this is fitted, it is taken 
 down and the sliding planks and the lower part of 
 the bilgeways are greased to lessen the friction, 
 and ensure a rapid sliding of the vessel, this is 
 done the day previous to the launch, and the 
 cradle is then refitted. 
 
 Early on the morning of the day the slices are 
 manned by a sufficient number of men with heavy 
 mauls in their hands, and by a succession of 
 simultaneous blows the wedges are driven in and 
 the ship is set up, that is, her weight is partially 
 transferred from the keel blocks to the sliding 
 planks. 
 
263 
 
 All the shores are then removed from the sides, 
 and the blocks under the keel are split out and 
 taken away^ mth the exception of three or four at 
 the fore-end, which are reserved for the critical 
 moment of launching. 
 
 The question will be naturally asked, what 
 prevents the vessel now from descending ? Pieces 
 of wood from six to ten feet in length, and 
 from six to twelve inches square, are so placed as 
 to receive the pressure of the cradle at one end, 
 and the other abuts against the fore-end of the 
 ribbon before-mentioned, these hold the vessel, 
 and enable us at a moment's warning to knock 
 them down and let the ship go : it is astonishing 
 how these two comparatively insignificant pieces 
 of wood stop such a stupendous mass of materials 
 as a ship is ; the science of mechanics however 
 enable us to do it. 
 
 The dog-shores are knocked down either by the 
 blows of heavy mauls, or by letting weights which 
 are suspended by a string simultaneously fall upon 
 them ; these weights must be placed at a height to 
 fall upon the dog-shores with sufficient momentum 
 to knock them down. 
 
 The Maeander was christened by Lady Marshal ; 
 booths were erected for the accommodation of the 
 officers and their families, and the visitors were 
 admitted by tickets. The sight was very beautiful 
 and quite novel to us. 
 
 The preparation of the launch was carried on 
 by our very kind friend Mr. Adams, under the 
 
264 
 
 superintendence of the master shipwright^ and so 
 excellent was the arrangement that there was not 
 the slightest confusion, and the launch was ex- 
 ceedingly good, as the vessel glided down the very 
 moment the dog-shores were down. 
 
 We here copy a very interesting description of 
 the launch, written by a gentleman at Chatham, 
 in the " Kentish Coronal/^ 
 
 On Tuesday, May the 5 th, at about half-past 
 " two, p. M._, was launched from Her Majesty's 
 " Dock Yard, Chatham, the frigate " Meeander/^ 
 
 amid the firing of cannon, the waving of flags, 
 
 and the shouts of assembled thousands ; she left 
 " the slip whereon sixteen years since, her strong 
 
 keel was lain, to which have been added, joint 
 " after joint, and plank after plank, rivetted and 
 " bound together by immense bolts and bars of 
 
 metal, until she has become what we now behold 
 
 her, a thing to wonder at, with an admiration 
 
 almost amounting to awe. 
 
 Many a stately tree, once the pride of the 
 
 woodlands, has been cut down, and in the words 
 ^' of ' Barry Cornwall' — 
 
 " His arms from the trunk are riven, 
 
 " His body all barked and squared, 
 ** And he's now like a felon driven, 
 
 " In chains to the strong Dock Yard. 
 
 " He's sawn through the middle, and turned, 
 
 " For the ribs of a frigate free, 
 " He's caulked, and pitched, and burned. 
 And now he's fit for sea. 
 
265 
 
 Many a hundred weight of ore has been dug 
 " out of the bowels of the harmless earthy smelted 
 " and wrought into shape and fitness by oft re- 
 peated blows of ponderous hammers wielded by 
 the brawny armed smiths ; or in the swift re- 
 " volving lathe turned, grooved and polished with 
 a celerity, precision, and beauty of finish, that 
 seemed like the work of enchantment. Many 
 " a muscular fxame has become weary of the 
 " labour which was to fit her for encountering 
 ' the battle and the breeze,^ toiling day after day 
 " and year after year, at what must have appeared 
 " an almost interminable task^ so vast the bulk 
 and so complicated the structure of this citadel 
 of the deep. At length she is finished, and 
 stands prepared to go forth upon the waters^ 
 " wanting but the masts and rigging to enable her 
 to fly like a winged creature over the bosom of 
 " the ocean, and bear the flag of our country to 
 " whatsoever quarter of the globe it may be 
 deemed necessary or expedient. Go mark her 
 giant bulk, so huge yet graceful in its fair pro- 
 " portions ; gaze on the massy timber which like 
 the ribs of some vast animal bulge out on either 
 side on her beams of immense girth, her iron 
 stancheons, the planks of goodly oak which 
 ^' form her decks and confess that the mind of 
 " man may conceive^ and his hands execute works, 
 which would seem the result rather of super- 
 " human than merely mortal power. Yet let not 
 
 N 
 
266 
 
 " this reflection make thee vain glorious, for re- 
 " member there is One far mightier, whose works 
 
 are infinitely more wonderful^ in the hollow of 
 " whose hand are the waters held ; who piled up 
 " the mountains, and bade the trees of the forest 
 " rear their heads on high, who created the 
 
 Behemoth and the Leviathan merely by the 
 
 impulse of his will. He spake and it was done. 
 
 He who can crush the framework of this noble 
 " frigate, wrench her strong joints asunder, and 
 
 scatter her timbers upon the face of the waters, 
 " as easily as the summer zephyr scatters the 
 
 thistle-down upon the hills. — But lo ! the signal 
 " is given ; the impediments are removed ; and 
 " slowly and majestically she glides into the 
 
 river, the band playing ' Rule Britannia,' and 
 ^' the spectators shouting with might and main. 
 " ^Tis an anxious moment to all concerned in 
 " getting her afloat, but more especially so, to the 
 
 Master Builder, on whom rests the greatest 
 
 responsibility : a slight error or deficiency in 
 " the completeness of the arrangements may be 
 
 attended with the most serious consequences, 
 
 destruction of property^ and what is of far more 
 " importance loss of human life. But nothing 
 
 occurs to mar the proud satisfaction, with 
 ^' which he marks the consummation of the labour 
 
 of so many years, safely she rides on her sub- 
 " ject element and all cause for anxiety on her 
 " part is at an end. Yet we cannot help thinking 
 
267 
 
 that he and every one concerned in her erection, 
 who have watched her growing year by year 
 
 " into the fullness of her strength and beauty, 
 must feel deeply interested in her career, yearn- 
 ing towards her with a fondness almost parental. 
 The following lines were the result of our 
 reflection on viewing the above spectacle, and 
 
 " we trust our readers will pardon the shall 
 
 " we call it egotism, which prompted their 
 
 " insertion in the Coronal. 
 
 " Another mighty instrument for evil or for good, 
 '* This day with spirit stirring cheers is launched upon the flood, 
 " How gracefully she glided down amid the foaming tides, 
 " That leapt as though to welcome her and kiss her swelling sides, 
 " And over to the ^arther bank, she moved like a queen, 
 " That goeth with a stately pace, her people's ranks between ; 
 " She went with music and with shouts, and blazonry so brave, 
 " To take possession of her throne upon the subject wave, 
 *' And calmly now she lieth there upon the river's breast ; 
 " Unheeding whether destiny may send her east or west, 
 *' Unconscious of the many souls she'll bear upon the deep, 
 " And dreamless all of rocks and shoals, and waves that madly 
 leap. 
 
 " How beautiful she looketh now, a stately thing to see, 
 
 " A fabric that we wonder at, how long will it thus be ? 
 
 ** Perchance no distant period may see her timbers rent, 
 
 " And scattered here and there, the sport of the vexed element. 
 
 " Thus man when first he goeth forth upon the sea of life 
 
 " Is fair and comely to the view with strength and vigour rife, 
 
 *' But soon alas the storms may come, and he before the blast 
 
 " May drive a shattered wreck with scarce a vestige of the past. 
 
 " Oh may this floating citadel — this mighty ship of war 
 
 " Be never used for purposes but such as peaceful are : 
 
268 
 
 " To devastate and to destroy, and make man's labour vain ; 
 Oh never may her thunders wake the echoes of the main." 
 
 An alteration in the concluding stanza has 
 " been suggested by a friendly critic, because he 
 " infers that a ship of war cannot be applied to 
 other than warlike purposes. The truth of this 
 " inference we deny. She may be the means of 
 conveying the man of science to regions of 
 ignorance and barbarism, and thus become a 
 mighty instrument for the spread of civilization 
 and diffusion of that knowledge, by which man^s 
 physical nature is elevated, and made capable of 
 " rightly appreciating the value of scientific pur- 
 suits. She may be rendered subservient to the 
 uses of commerce, and thus afford a means of 
 ^* enlightenment to the dark places of the earth : 
 and she may merely be a shew of overwhelming 
 power, without once using those engines of de- 
 " struction, which the bad passions of mankind 
 have prompted them to invent, awe into quiet- 
 ness many who are stirred by avarice or ambition 
 to become disturbers of the world^s peace, and 
 " destroyers of their fellow creatures/^ 
 
 After the launch we had the pleasure of spend- 
 ing the day at our kind friend Mr. Fincham^s 
 house, where a splendid collation was served up 
 to all the principal officers of the dock yard and 
 many of his private friends ; we heard some good 
 speaking, the company departed at six p. m. all of 
 them highly delighted with the doings of the day. 
 
269 
 
 We see by the Navy Estimates prepared 
 February, 1841, for Parliament to vote the sup- 
 pHes of 1841 and 1842, that the following officers 
 upon salary are required for Chatham Yard : — 
 
 Per Year. 
 
 Captain Superintendent - - ^1000 
 
 Master Attendant - - - 480 
 
 Assistant Master Attendant - 300 
 
 Master Shipwright - - - 650 
 
 Two Assistant Master Shipwrights, each 400 
 
 Storekeeper . _ _ ^oo 
 
 Store Receiver - - - 450 
 
 Director of Police - - - 250 
 
 Surgeon - - 500 
 
 Assistant Surgeon - - - 200 
 
 Chaplain ... 350 
 
 Boatswain - - - 200 
 Two Clerks, first class from ^300. to 
 
 £450. per year. Gross amount - 825 
 Five Clerks, second class from £150. 
 
 to £300. per year. Gross amount 1422 
 Nine Clerks, third class from £80. to 
 
 £150. per year. Gross amount - 1323 
 
 Master Smith - 260 
 
 " of Saw Mills - - - 250 
 
 " Sailmaker - 250 
 
 " Rigger - - - 250 
 
 Ropemaker - - - 250 
 Six Foremen of the Yard - - . 250 
 
 Timber Converter - - - ^ 250 
 
270 
 
 
 
 Per Year. 
 
 Assistant Timber Converter, first 
 
 180 
 
 a 6C 
 
 second 
 
 160 
 
 Conductor of Lead Mills 
 
 
 200 
 
 Foreman of Painters 
 
 
 200 
 
 of Ropemakers 
 
 
 200 
 
 Acting do. do. 
 
 
 200 
 
 Foreman of Smiths 
 
 
 150 
 
 Fifteen Inspectors, each 
 
 
 100 
 
 Three Layers in Rope Yard, each 
 
 100 
 
 Leading man of Storehouse, first 
 
 120 
 
 (C CC 
 
 second 
 
 100 
 
 The following are the sums proposed to be 
 voted for the Year 1841, for wages to Artificers, 
 Shipwrights, and Labourers, for the several Yards 
 named : — 
 
 Deptford - - - £ 5 800 
 
 Woolwich - - 50,500 
 
 Do. Steam Engine Manufactory 20,000 
 Chatham - - - . 81,200 
 
 Sheerness . . - 53,000 
 
 Portsmouth - - - 126,000 
 
 Plymouth - ... 126,000 
 
 Pembroke . . - 39,000 
 
 Deal ----- 500 
 and the following expenses are to be incurred for 
 wages, clothing, &c., of the police in the Dock 
 Yards : — 
 
 Woolwich - - . - £2224 
 Chatham 2974 
 
271 
 
 Per Year. 
 
 Slieerness - - 2244 
 
 Portsmouth - - - 3179 
 
 Plymouth - - 3974 
 
 Pembroke - 1379 
 
 Deptford - - - 2431 
 
 Deal - - - - 91 
 
 When we look at the large sums thus required 
 for building and keeping up a Navy, and when we 
 know the immense sums that such a large army 
 as that kept up by England must cost, we are not 
 surprised that such heavy taxes are required upon 
 every thing that is introduced into England. 
 
 A friend of ours gave us the following descrip- 
 tion of taxation, supposed to have been written 
 by an eminent statesman, now a law lord : — 
 
 The effects of war are taxes upon every article 
 " which enters into the mouth, or covers the back, 
 " or is placed under the foot ; taxes upon every 
 " thing which it is pleasant to see, hear, feel^ smell, 
 or taste ; taxes upon warmth^ light and loco- 
 motion ; taxes on every thing on earthy and the 
 " waters under the earth ; on every thing that 
 " comes from abroad, or is grown at home ; taxes 
 " on the raw material ; taxes on every fresh value 
 that is added to it by the industry of man ; 
 " taxes on the very source which pampers man's 
 appetite, and the drug that restores him to 
 health ; on the ermine which decorates the 
 judge, and the rope which hangs the criminal ] 
 
272 
 
 " on the poor man^s salt, and the rich man^s spice ; 
 " on the brass nails of the coffin, and the ribbons 
 " of the bride ; at bed or at board^ couchant or 
 
 levant^ we must pay ; the schoolboy whips his 
 " his taxed top ; the beardless youth manages his 
 
 taxed horse, with a taxed bridle, upon a taxed 
 
 road, and the dying Englishman pouring his 
 
 medicine which has paid seven per cent.^ into a 
 " spoon that has paid fifteen per cent.^ flings 
 
 himself back on his chintz bed which has paid 
 " twenty-two per cent., makes his will on an eight 
 
 pound stamp, and expires in the arms of an 
 
 apothecary^ who has paid a license of £lOO. for 
 " the privilege of putting him to death. His 
 " whole property is then immediately taxed from 
 
 two to ten per cent. Besides, the probate, 
 " large fees are demanded for bringing him in the 
 
 chancel, his virtues are handed down to pos- 
 " terity on taxed marble, and he is then gathered 
 " to his fathers to be taxed no more.''^ 
 
 We have frequently made enquiries as to any 
 article that is not taxed, and we do not know any 
 thing that is in general use which has not a tax^ 
 with the exception of gas lights ; candles, and oil, 
 pay duties, but gas is used every where and pays 
 nothing. 
 
 The preparations for launching the London, was 
 the same as the Meeander, but being a much larger 
 ship, the dimensions of all parts of the launching 
 apparatus was proportionably large, and the whole 
 
273 
 
 was superintended by our friend Samuel Read, Esq. 
 The judicious management of our worthy instructor 
 John Fincham, Esq., in launching the steamer on 
 the same day, attracted thousands of persons 
 to witness such an interesting scene ; the affair in- 
 deed was so grand and so much were we delighted^ 
 that we feel we could not by our own words^ con- 
 vey more exactly our feelings upon and give an 
 account of that^ to us a novel, and to every body 
 so highly interesting a spectacle, we therefore copy 
 a description of these launches as appeared in the 
 Maidstone Gazette, (editor, Mr. Whitings,) which 
 was published nine miles from Chatham, and with- 
 in ten hours after the launches, and came out the 
 next morning, copies of which papers were pro- 
 cured for us by a kind friend of ours at Chatham ; 
 the account it gives is so very minute and faithful^ 
 that it does a great credit to the writer, and we think 
 that we should only spoil it did we add one single 
 word of our own to it, in consequence of which 
 we quote exactly as it appeared in that journal. 
 
 " Grand Ship Launch at Chatham. — 
 " Public notice having been given that the steamer 
 ' Polyphemus^ and the ship of war ' London^ 
 would be launched yesterday, a large concourse 
 of people assembled to witness the imposing 
 ceremony. The weather in the morning was 
 gloomy and unpromising, and continued squally 
 throughout the day, with occasional showers. 
 " Fortunately, however, the amount of rain which 
 
 N 2 
 
274 
 
 fell before the launch^ was so inconsiderable as 
 " to prove of little inconvenience to the vast 
 " multitude that assembled. 
 
 The gates of this dock-yard were not opened 
 to the public till twelve o'clock, although they 
 were literally besieged for admission at an early 
 hour. The few who were, however, fortunate 
 " enough to obtain admission earlier, found ample 
 subjects for meditation and admiration in this 
 important national establishment. In addition 
 to the ships to be launched, there are now on 
 the stocks, or in dock, the vessels : — 
 
 Calypso . . 20 Guns. Commenced Dec. 1837 
 
 "Active. . . 36 1836 
 
 " Cumberland 70 May 1 836 
 
 "The Mars . . 30 Jan. 1840 
 
 " Also the Formidable, preparing for commission. 
 
 " All these vessels, in different stages of com- 
 " pleteness, and exhibiting some of the most stu- 
 " pendous results of human ingenuity that can 
 " probably be witnessed on the earth, aiforded 
 " the liveliest scope for wonder and delight to 
 " thousands, who had never before witnessed the 
 " progress of naval architecture ; whilst the inge- 
 " nious mechanical arrangements of this great 
 " national factory elicited equal admiration. 
 
 u The ' Polyphemus,^ a beautiful war steamer of 
 " eight hundred tons burthen, was first launched. 
 " Half-past twelve was the hour named for launch- 
 
275 
 
 " ing this beautiful vessel ; but the strong wind 
 having somewhat delayed the rising of the tide, 
 " she was not launched till one o^clock. Long 
 " before that hour a numerous crowd of respecta- 
 " bly dressed persons^ with a full proportion of 
 that female elegance and beauty for which Kent 
 is said to be famed, had occupied every point 
 " from which a view of the operations could be 
 gained. At this moment^ and subsequently, 
 we noticed amongst the company Sir C. Adam^ 
 " Sir W. Symonds, Admiral Digby, Sir J. Mar- 
 " shall, Admiral Fleming, Sir J. Hill, Sir T. 
 Baker, Captain Blundreth, Captain Baker, Dr. 
 Beattie, Captain Clavell, &c. &c., most of 
 w^hom were accompanied by their families. 
 Indeed, from the vast number of equipages and 
 " persons of consideration present, it must be 
 assumed that nearly all the leading families for 
 ^'^ miles round attended. 
 
 " J. Fincham, Esq., master builder of the dock- 
 yard, having seen that every thing was in readi- 
 " ness for launching the ^ Polyphemus,^ Miss 
 " Flora Clavell, on whom the honor of christening 
 devolved, prepared to take her part in the cere- 
 mony. The old mode of christening a vessel 
 " previous to launching, was that of throwing a 
 bottle of wine at the bow of the vessel, with, of 
 " course, sufficient strength to smash it and bathe 
 ^' the vessel with the generous juice. The unfe- 
 minine operation of ^ throwing,^ and the diffi- 
 
276 
 
 culty of finding a lady who could make certain 
 " of hitting a seventy-four^ however, suggested 
 that the advancement of science, which had 
 done so much for building, should do a little 
 for christening. The present mode is that of 
 slinging a bottle of port horizontally, in a line 
 attached to the stem of the vessel, removing 
 the bottle to a sufficient distance and breaking 
 it against the keel, its own gravity being almost 
 sufficient to effect that object. Making allow- 
 " ance for the trepidation natural to christening 
 an object of such magnitude^ the fair baptizer 
 executed her task a merveille. Scarcely had 
 she pronounced the words, ' The Polyphemus, 
 ' may she do honour to her builder/ when the 
 air was rent with the heartiest huzzas, the dog- 
 shores were knocked away, and by the mere 
 force of her own gravity, the ship ' walked the 
 ^' ^ waters like a thing of life,' a fearful instrument 
 " of good or ill, as human reason and benevolence, 
 " or human passion and prejudice, may chance to 
 " prevail. 
 
 " The company then proceeded to view the 
 " launching of the ^ London.^ The public were 
 " admitted on board this really splendid vessel 
 " till within a short period of her launching. In 
 
 the opinion of several naval authorities who 
 
 inspected her, the finishings (even to the cabin 
 " tables), are the most complete of any vessel 
 
 ever turned out of hand. The vast dimensions 
 
277 
 
 and accommodations, the immense quantity of 
 materiel used in her construction^ the power of 
 " her armament, being the largest fighting vessel 
 " of two decks ever built, the magnitude of her 
 " weight, and the length of time which had been 
 consumed in welding together (if we may use the 
 term) the many thousand loads of British oak of 
 " which she is composed, all combined to strike 
 the beholder with admiration, amounting to awe, 
 at the stupendous and immeasurable power of 
 the intelligence which had designed and pro- 
 duced her. 
 
 The ^ London^ is called a line of battle ship of 
 92 guns, on two decks. The following are her 
 " principal dimensions, and some other particulars 
 concerning her : — 
 
 feet in. 
 
 ** Extreme length - 242 6 
 
 " Length on the gun deck (lower fighting do.) - 205 7 
 Length of keel for tonnage - - - 170 6 
 
 " Ditto on the blocks - - - - 192 0 
 
 '* Breadth, extreme - - - - 54 2 
 
 " Ditto for tonnage - - - - 53 6 
 
 " Ditto, moulded - - - - 52 8 
 
 " Depth from taffrail to keel - - - 57 6 
 
 " Ditto from figure head to keel - - 50 9 
 
 " Ditto in hold - - - - - 23 0 
 
 Burthen in tons, 2602. 
 Guns. 
 No. 
 
 " Gun Deck - | ^ 
 
 26 
 4 
 30 
 
 Qr. deck and forecastle 26 
 
 Upper Deck - 
 
 in. 
 
 Pr. 
 
 cwt. 
 
 length 
 
 8 
 
 68 
 
 65 
 
 9 0 
 
 6 
 
 32 
 
 56 
 
 9 6 
 
 8 
 
 68 
 
 65 
 
 9 0 
 
 6 
 
 32 
 
 56 
 
 9 6 
 
 6 
 
 32 
 
 41 
 
 8 0 
 
278 
 
 " Total weight of metal (or shot) - 3304 lbs. 
 
 Broadside - - - - 1652 lbs. 
 
 Total weight of guns - 242 tons 12 cwt. 
 
 Number and Weight of Anchors for Sea. 
 4 of 95 cwt. each 
 
 Total Weight, 
 tons cwt. 
 21 4 
 
 Value 
 £ 1054 
 
 Masts. 
 
 Length 76 ft. 3 in. 
 113 7 
 121 9 
 77 8 
 
 Diameter 40 in. 
 ... 37 
 ... 40 
 ... 26 
 
 1 25 
 1 12 
 " 1 7 
 
 " Bow Sprit 
 *' Foremast 
 
 Main Mast 
 " Mizen Mast 
 
 '^^ The preparations for the public accommodation 
 " were excellent^ as might have been anticipated 
 " from the assiduity and attention of the kind-heart- 
 " ed and hberal master shipwright, Mr. Fincham, 
 " under whose direction everything was arranged. 
 Each side of the immense shp was occupied by a 
 magnificent booth, offering covered seats, rising 
 " from the front, for nearly 3,000 persons, who 
 were admitted by ticket. These booths were 
 handsomely decorated with flags and colors, and 
 afforded complete protection from the inclemen- 
 cies of our ever-varying climate. A spacious 
 covered platform was erected at the head of the 
 vessel, for the accommodation of the nobility and 
 the official authorities connected with the 
 " business of the day. On different sides of the 
 " vessel were stationed the excellent bands of the 
 " Royal Marines, the dock-yard, and the 96th foot, 
 who during the day very considerably contri- 
 buted to the general enjoyment and hilarity. 
 
by their spirited performance of some of tlie 
 
 " most soul-stirring of our national and naval airs. 
 On this platform were also placed the choristers 
 
 " of Rochester cathedral, assisted by about twenty 
 female and fifty male singers, who executed the 
 pieces selected (considering the disadvantages of 
 the immense space that required filling and the 
 
 " dense crowd around them) in a very creditable 
 manner. The end of one of the booths nearest 
 the river was reserved for the Lords of the Ad- 
 
 " miralty, and splendidly decorated with flags. 
 One of the most pleasing features of the day's 
 proceedings was the appearance of the poet 
 Campbell on the platform. At the suggestion of 
 
 ^' Mr. Baldock, he was greeted with the appropri- 
 ate air ^ the Campbells are coming' from the 
 Marine band, and the general heartfelt expres- 
 sions of regard which hailed his appearance 
 must have been peculiarly gratifying to this 
 
 " highly gifted bard. It was truly pleasant to see 
 the voluntary and ready homage which was 
 paid by rank, wealth, and power to the supre- 
 
 " macy of mind. Numerous were the introduc- 
 tions of his admirers to the poet, through his 
 friends. Dr. Beattie and Mr. Baldock. 
 
 For a few minutes before the launch the coup 
 d'ceil presented from the platform was certainly 
 
 " the most magnificent scene imaginable. Twen- 
 ty thousand persons are said by the police to 
 
 " have entered the dock-yard within two hours. 
 
280 
 
 and including the parties on both sides of the 
 river, very nearly 30,000 persons must have 
 " been present. The galaxy of beauty and 
 " elegance that filled the booths on either side of 
 " the vessel, clad in all the hues of the rainbow ; 
 the profusion of union-jacks and national em- 
 blems which decorated the vessel and the 
 booths ; the gay and varied uniforms of the 
 " numerous military and naval officers ; the sin- 
 " gular costume of some natives of the East ; 
 (alluding to ourselves) " the steamers lying mid- 
 river covered with people, and ornamented with 
 " flags ; the crowds and groups of people congre- 
 gated and scattered over the green hills and 
 marshes in the distance ; the intense interest in 
 " the proceedings evinced by those who had 
 " climbed up the timbers which supported the 
 roof of the slip, and had even mounted on the 
 roof itself of the neighbouring slip ; the sun- 
 burnt hardy-looking row of smiling faces be- 
 longing to Jack tars and Jack tars' sweethearts, 
 which were ranged along the bulwarks of the 
 stem, and filled the foremost port-holes of the 
 gigantic object of interest, — these and numerous 
 other striking peculiarities of the scene induced 
 " us to regret, that such a spirit-stirring and truly 
 national exhibition as a ship launch had never 
 to our knowledge formed a subject for the ge- 
 nius of either of our eminent painters. 
 
 At this moment Miss Clavell (sister to Miss 
 
281 
 
 " Flora Clavell who had named the Polyphemus) 
 " dashed the bottle against the coppered keel^ and 
 exclaimed ' Success to the London^ and may 
 " she prove a terror to our enemies.' Loud and 
 hearty cheers succeeded^ the bands played ' God 
 save the Queen/ after which the choir sung 
 
 God save the Queen ! Long live the Queen ! 
 
 May her reign be prosperous ! 
 Victoria reigns ! may her reign be prosperous ! 
 
 The worthy master shipwright then took his 
 station on the platform, and explained to the men 
 below the signal on which they were to knock 
 away the dog-shores. The signal is given. Three 
 " or four blows are heard, and a moment of awful 
 suspense succeeds. During fourteen years, heads 
 that are now low have anticipated the moment 
 " when by her own innate power she would require 
 " but the cutting of a thread to enable her to slide 
 off the comparatively slight frame on which she 
 " is so delicately balanced. For fourteen years have 
 " ' thews and sinews' that are now crumbling into 
 dust been engaged in fashioning the gnarled oak 
 into the graceful and irresistible form she now 
 wears. The triumph, or failure of human intellect 
 is at hand. Thirty thousand breasts are swelling 
 " with expectation. The sound of the last blow 
 " from the hammer has scarcely died away. For an 
 " instant, which seems an hour, the stillness of the 
 
282 
 
 grave prevails. She moves. A streak of electric 
 fire follows the progress of her cradle along the 
 slips, handkerchiefs and hats are waved in wild 
 exultation ; a shout, such as is heard from 
 " Britons alone, peals along the vaulted roof, is 
 " taken up by the hundreds on board the vessels 
 in the river, and re-echoed from the myriads on 
 the opposite shore. In the next instant the 
 magnificent vessel is breasting and cleaving the 
 mighty waters with the gracefulness of a swan. 
 So sw^eetly and smoothly does she glide into the 
 waves^ that you can scarcely believe that she 
 has not grown in them, and find it almost im- 
 possible to suppose that she has for years rested 
 " motionless in the mighty chasm now gaping at 
 your feet. A flood of light is let into the 
 
 " inclosure by her removal it is reflected from 
 
 " thousands of sparkling eyes and happy faces, 
 who now for the first time discover that the 
 " powerful brass band has been playing ^ Hearts 
 " of oak^ ever since she first began to move. 
 
 Campbell's vigorous and highly appropriate 
 " ballad ' Ye Mariners of England' is sung by the 
 " choir, with keener enthusiasm inspired by the 
 " presence of the poet. 
 
 " Britannia needs no bulwarks, 
 
 " No towers along the steep, 
 " Her march is o'er the mountain waves, 
 
 " Her home is on the deep. 
 
283 
 
 were truths, never more forcibly felt, or heartily 
 responded to, than on this occasion. ^ Rule 
 Britannia^ is played, and an original version 
 of ^ God save the Queen' is sung, and the 
 
 " immense multitude, after seeing Scott, the 
 
 " American diver, leap from the mast-head of a 
 brig, depart to their homes with the most 
 
 " perfect decorum. 
 
 A dejeuner was afterwards given by J. 
 
 " Fincham, Esq. (whose excellent arrangements 
 may be said to have been perfect) to about 
 eighty of the most considerable guests, and heads 
 
 " of departments, and is said to have been in 
 many respects the most distingue entertainment 
 that has been witnessed in Chatham for some 
 years. 
 
 " The conduct of the police was admirable. 
 " They stopped above thirty men of known bad 
 
 repute at the dock-yard gates. Not a single 
 
 theft or accident was heard of, and we are glad 
 " to be able to state that the body of the police 
 " (with Lieut. Hubbard their superintendent) re- 
 
 ceived the thanks of the Lords of the Admiralty 
 
 for their good conduct. 
 
 ^' We ought not to close this report without 
 ^' acknowledging the polite attention and civility 
 
 offered to the representatives of the public press 
 " by the master shipwright and Mr. Baldock, with 
 
 whose general character for urbanity such atten- 
 ^' tions are perfectly consistent. 
 
284 
 
 " The inhabitants of Rochester and Chatham 
 describe the attendance at this launch as being 
 more numerous than that at any former one. 
 The complement of the London is 800 men 
 and officers/^ 
 
 To us these launches were of great professional 
 importance. The London had been designed by- 
 Sir Robert Seppings^ formerly surveyor of the 
 navy, father of our friend John Seppings, Esq. of 
 Calcutta ; a great portion of her had been built by 
 our kind friend John Fincham, Esq., master ship- 
 wright : and we had every day for some months 
 watched the progress of her completion ; we there- 
 fore felt deeply interested upon this occasion. 
 
 Early in the morning of the 28th September^ 
 we were in the Dock-yard to see the London set 
 up, preparatory to her blocks being split from 
 under her for launching. We were conversing 
 with our friend Mr. Baldock, his daughters, and 
 Mr. and Mrs. Flight, of Highbury Terrace, near 
 London, when a messenger in the master-attend- 
 ant's office, who had formerly been a sailor in the 
 British Navy, and who has the blessings of having 
 been well educated, presented to Mr. Baldock the 
 following piece of poetry, of his own composing, 
 on the launch that was to take place that day: — 
 
 Ye artizans, ye men of Kent, 
 Your ancestors were long content 
 To charge the watery element 
 
 With barques by tempests undone , 
 
285 
 
 But you, more fortunate than they, 
 You flourish in a happier day, 
 And nobler energies display, 
 In building of the London, 
 
 A finer, firmer ship than she, 
 To grace the line, or stem the sea, 
 By art constructed could not be ; 
 I mean to say, the London. 
 
 With stern sublime, and ample side. 
 Where white and black in shade divide 
 The parts of her who is the pride 
 Of Chatham, Kent, and London. 
 
 Well might our great metropolis 
 Be proud of such a ship as this, 
 To represent the wealth that is 
 In mighty matchless London. 
 
 Her guns, in number ninety-two, 
 Well served by tars expert and true, 
 Shall send her charges through and through 
 The ship that braves the London, 
 
 Apart from each and every care, 
 Spectators, now yourselves prepare 
 To see the sights you came to share. 
 The launching of the London. 
 
 And while she is gliding down the ways 
 Rend, rend the air with loud huzzas, 
 In Clavell's and in Fincham's praise, 
 For launching well the London. 
 
 After the launch was over^ we were 
 Mr. Fincham to spend the day at his 
 
 invited by 
 house^ and 
 
286 
 
 we had the high pleasure to meet at his hos- 
 pitable table the greatest number of persons that 
 we had ever seen assembled in a private residence 
 in England. There were all the resident officers, 
 and their families, of Chatham and Sheerness 
 Dock-yards, several of the foremen of the yard, 
 and some of the clerks. Amongst the guests was 
 T, Campbell, Esq., a very celebrated English 
 poet; Montgomery, a writer, and Dr. Beattie, 
 also a celebrated author. Our good friend, John 
 Seppings, Esq., surveyor of shipping at Calcutta, 
 
 was also there, and Sketky, Esq., a very 
 
 celebrated painter of marine views, consisting of 
 ships, yachts, &c. We heard some good speaking, 
 and some very nice songs ; whilst upon the table, 
 of every thing, whether of game, chickens, pastry, 
 tarts, cakes, jellies, and all choice fruits, there was 
 a great abundance. Wines of a great many sorts, 
 champagne, hock, claret, &c. were freely partaken 
 of, and it was a most delightful day. 
 
 We should be wanting in gratitude did we con- 
 clude the subject of Chatham Dock-yard, which 
 we are proud to call our professional school^ with- 
 out returning our heartfelt and most sincere 
 thanks to Captain Clavell, the worthy superin- 
 tendent, and his assistant, Thomas Vinall, Esq., 
 for the kindness they evinced towards us. We 
 are at a loss how to express our gratitude to our 
 worthy and talented instructor, John Fincham, 
 Esq., who, besides the instructions we received 
 
287 
 
 from him in our profession^ evinced an uniform 
 kind disposition^ and his amiable family were not 
 backward in welcoming us in every way. We are 
 no less indebted to the assistant master ship- 
 wrights and all the foremen of the yard^ together 
 with their families, for the attention we expe- 
 rienced from them ; all of whom we here beg to 
 assure that they have not bestowed favors upon 
 ungrateful objects, as we shall through life bear 
 them in lively recollection, and look back with 
 pleasure on the pleasant and happy hours we have 
 spent with them. 
 
288 
 
 CHAPTER XX- 
 
 CHATHAM^ ROCHESTER, AND MAIDSTONE. 
 
 Chatham is very populous, but very irregu- 
 larly and ill-built ; it consists principally of one 
 long street, extending along the banks of the 
 Medway ; Chatham, Rochester and Stroud being 
 one long continued street of above two miles in 
 length. There are very good shops, at which 
 nearly every thing can be procured nearly as cheap 
 as in London. 
 
 In Chatham there is an excellent institution 
 founded by Sir John Hawkins, — almshouses for 
 poor decayed mariners and shipwrights, these 
 w^ere built in 1592, and twelve poor old sailors, 
 or shipwrights, have a good house, a quantity of 
 coals, and a few shillings each per week to make 
 the latter end of their lives comfortable. 
 
 In Rochester there is a valuable charity founded 
 by Richard Watts, Esq., on the 22d of August, 
 1579, and a stone over the door of the house 
 where his charity is daily dispensed, will tell its 
 own story. On it are these words : " Richard 
 
289 
 
 " Watts^ Esq., by his will dated 22d of August, 
 " 1579^ founded this charity for six poor tra- 
 ^' vellers, who^ not being rogues or proctors^ may 
 
 receive gratis^ for one nighty lodging, entertain- 
 " ment, and fourpence each/^ How rogues and 
 proctors came to be thus named together is not ex- 
 actly known. But the common report is, that hav- 
 ing once been taken suddenly ill, and having em- 
 ployed a proctor or lawyer to make his will, upon 
 his recovery he looked at the will made in his 
 illness, and found that the proctor had left all the 
 money to himself ; and to perpetuate the know- 
 ledge of this act of villany, he thus left his be- 
 quest. There are also some very nice almshouses 
 on the new road, Rochester, called St. Cathe- 
 rine's Hospital, where several elderly females, 
 who have known better times, have a small house, 
 with sufficient weekly income to keep them. 
 These are very good things. These are such 
 things as do honour to Englishmen. And we 
 are told that there is scarcely a large town of 
 ancient origin but what has some of these bene- 
 volent institutions. 
 
 There is a very small theatre at Rochester for 
 the amusement of the inhabitants, and in Chatham 
 a Mechanic's Institution, and it is matter of sur-^ 
 prise that in this populous place, the neighbour- 
 hood of which is surrounded by many wealthy 
 individuals, there is not a public building of any 
 pretension of architectural beauty, or a room to 
 
 o 
 
290 
 
 accommodate two hundred people^ nor is the 
 theatre worth noticing. 
 
 Brompton is a very populous village, situated 
 on an eminence above the dock-yard^ and inha- 
 bited principally by the artizans employed in the 
 dock-yard. Extensive fortifications are erected, 
 which comprehend within their range this village 
 and Chatham Church. The barracks are very 
 large, and in addition to the one called Marine or 
 Chatham barracks^ there are two others for bring- 
 ing up soldiers for foreign service, and many hun- 
 dreds of troops w^ere sent to India during our 
 residence at Chatham. 
 
 The country round Chatham is very fine, and 
 the walks are very good^ particularly the one to 
 the neat and quiet village of Gillingham, which 
 in summer is a most pleasant ramble. Chatham 
 races take place every year on the place called 
 the Lines^ where the soldiers are reviewed ; it is 
 a large plot of ground, and very appropriate for 
 the purpose; the races commence on the first 
 week in September, and continue three successive 
 days ; several booths are erected^ and many stalls 
 are set up for the sale of refreshments, and a 
 stand for the accommodation of the people^ who, 
 on the payment of a trifle, can have comfortable 
 and commanding seats for viewing the races. 
 
 Whilst we were residing at Chatham we were 
 often told that hops and apples were the chief 
 productions of the county of Kent, and we were 
 
291 
 
 persuaded to go and see them growing. And on 
 Sunday^ the 20th September^ 1840, accompanied 
 by our friends Mr. Baldock and Dorabjee Mun- 
 cherjee, and by one of our domestics, we pro- 
 ceeded in an open barouche w^ith a pair of horses, 
 in the direction of Maidstone, the county town. 
 We passed through Rochester, and from thence 
 by a road leading through a wood, and where^ in 
 consequence of the approach of the EngHsh au- 
 tumn, the several sorts of trees were all of them 
 clothed with leaves of different colours, and beau- 
 tiful they were to behold. The trees were not 
 large, as they are cut down every ten or twelve 
 years to make hop-poles and fire-wood ; but 
 there w^as every variety of hue among the leaves, 
 from the deep red to the lively green. We shall 
 not soon forget the beauty of that valley on the 
 right hand. We kept ascending an eminence for 
 four miles, when we came to a magnificent prospect 
 from the top of what is called Blue Bell Hill. And 
 here we were most forcibly reminded of our own 
 ever dear Bombay. For upon the top of the 
 hill Mr. Baldock pointed out to us a bungalow, or 
 country-house, erected by an intimate friend and 
 distant relative of his, the late Walter Prentis^ 
 Esq., for the express purpose of receiving and 
 entertaining his numerous friends there. And as 
 some of our happiest hours in India are spent in 
 bungalows, this, and the extensive and varied 
 view, and the then strong gleam of sunshine^ glad- 
 
292 
 
 dened our hearts, and our parents, wife, child, 
 and relations, all became present to us in our 
 minds. We descended a very steep hill, and we 
 had pointed out to us a mound of stones which 
 are said to have been there ever since the year 
 455, and that a great battle was then fought there 
 between the Britons and the Saxons^ in which 
 their leaders were killed. Catigern is supposed 
 to be buried here. What renders these stones 
 more curious is, that there are no stones of a 
 similar description within a great many miles of 
 the spot, and consequently they must have been 
 brought here. And how they managed to re- 
 move them and to set them up here with the 
 i*ude machines they had in those days is truly 
 astonishing, as they are very heavy, weighing 
 each upward of eight tons, and about eight feet 
 high. The view from the top of Blue Bell Hill, 
 all the way to Kitscottie house, is very pleas- 
 ing ; there was not, it is true, any of the grand 
 features of picturesque scenery. No mountains, 
 no lakes, or no cataracts. There are, however, a 
 long high range of hills which bound the view ; 
 and in the bottom, the river Medway, which takes 
 an immense number of circuits, and which adds 
 much to the beauty of the view. Corn fields, 
 green meadows, orchards, hop gardens, here 
 were all blended together, and formed a varied 
 scenery. 
 
 We here quitted the high road to Maidstone, 
 
293 
 
 and descended a narrow and almost precipitous 
 hill to the village of Aylesford. Here there is a 
 bridge over the Medway. The parish church is 
 upon an eminence just above the village^ and the 
 quiet^ home view from this spot, would make a 
 lovely 23icture at high water; for, at low tide, 
 when the water lias receded, this village loses 
 much of its beauty. In this quiet church lay the 
 remains of several of the family of Lord Grey 
 and of the Colepeppers ; they were some cen- 
 turies since active partakers in the wars of their 
 days, and their armour and weapons are some of 
 them hanging now over their tombs. What a 
 contrast ! here in the quiet retirement of a peaceful 
 little nook lay those whose lances were stained 
 with blood. Here awaiting their final judgment 
 lay the mighty men of arms, who in their life 
 times led on to slaughter and to devastation. 
 The village of Aylesford is on the north bank 
 of the Medway, and close to it is the Friary, 
 the country residence of the Earl of Aylesford ; 
 it is situated close to the Medway, and from it is 
 to be seen one of the prettiest pictures that can 
 be imagined, embracing the picturesque bridge, 
 the old fashioned church, and the village, — all 
 surrounded and shut in by beautiful green ver- 
 dure, form a scene of quiet that would make one 
 think if peace and happiness are to be found in 
 the world, that here^ if sought for, it is to be 
 
294 
 
 found. On the opposite side of the bridge is 
 Preston Hall, the abode of Charles Milner, Esq., 
 an elegant building situated in a park of great 
 beauty. We proceeded through Mill Hall, and 
 East Mailing, through a tract of fertile country 
 to Wateringbury, and had some refreshment at 
 the King's Head Inn at that place. We walked 
 out to look at the hops, as they were growing in 
 great abundance in this spot, and which are indeed 
 beautiful to behold. The hop plant is cultivated 
 at a heavy annual expense. Poles, from 10 to 20 
 feet long are placed at angles all over the gardens, 
 and the plant, which is a climber, grows to the 
 top of them, twining round, and when at the top, 
 stretching out its bine and catching hold of the 
 other poles. The hop itself, at a short distance, 
 very much resembles grapes ; but upon ap- 
 proaching closely, you find that they are com- 
 posed of minute leaves, which upon being rubbed 
 between the fingers, give out a gummy matter, 
 which has a perfume, and are of a bitter taste. 
 The leaf of the hop plant is very elegant in 
 its form; and no one can picture the perfect 
 beauty of a hop garden. It must be seen to be 
 duly appreciated. Hops, when dried, are sub- 
 ject to a duty of 18^. Sd. per hundred weight of 
 112 lbs., and pay a large sum to the revenue ; but 
 they are very uncertain in their produce. In the 
 year 1803, they paid for duty £433,054. 11^.; in 
 
295 
 
 1805, only £57,158. 17^. lid. ; and in 1808, 
 £437,697. 7^^. 3^/.; in 1825, only £42,290. 10.s% 
 4jrf.; and in 1839, £357,456. 16^. 8c?. 
 
 It was the time for gathering the hops when 
 we were at Wateringbury, and it affords for a few 
 weeks employment for some thousands of men, 
 women, and children. The hops are carefully 
 picked, one by one, and dropped in a bin, which 
 is a cloth formed into a pit, which will hold a1)out 
 twenty bushels, by crossing long poles. And the 
 hop-pole being laid across the top thereof, the 
 hops are gathered, then measured, as the pickers 
 are paid by the bushel, and then taken to the kiln 
 called an oast-house, where they are dried over a 
 coke fire upon horse-hair cloths, and then pressed 
 down by men stamping them into coarse cloth 
 bags, which usually w^eigh two hundred weight 
 and a half, or into finer cloth, called pockets, 
 weighing one hundred weight and a half, and they 
 are then fit for making beer. They fluctuate very 
 much in price, having been sold for upwards of 
 £20. per hundred w^eight, and at £2., so that very 
 many persons who speculate in them have been 
 ruined. Hops are used for making the daily 
 drink of Englishmen, called beer. A grain called 
 barley, is placed in water until it sprouts for 
 growing ; when it is placed in a kiln the vegeta- 
 tion is stopped, and the grain is roasted ; this is 
 called malt, which is bruised in a mill, and water 
 at one hundred and sixty-eight degrees of tern- 
 
296 
 
 perature is poured over it in the proportion of 
 about fifteen gallons of water to eight or nine gal- 
 lons of ground malt; this is stirred about vio- 
 lently^ which is called washings and after about 
 an hour, the liquor thus obtained, called sweet 
 wort, is placed in a copper, and to about seven- 
 teen gallons, one pound of hops is added, which 
 being boiled for an hour, is then poured out and 
 cooled as quickly as possible ; when it is down to 
 blood heat, a little yeast (or leaven) is added, 
 which causes it to ferment, and then it is beer. 
 Beer is of several descriptions of strength and 
 colour, according to the proportion of malt, and 
 the different states of roasting to which the malt 
 has been subjected. Brown stout and porter, 
 from high roasted malt, is nearly black. And 
 ales from pale malt are nearly without colour. We 
 saw in Wateringbury pleasure grounds belonging 
 to Alderman Lucas of London, ^ ho has a country 
 residence here, which, from the road, looked very 
 pretty, having several w^aterfalls in them. We 
 crossed the Medway again from Teston to Far- 
 leigh, and here we saw a very pretty waterfall, 
 the waste water of the Medway running over a 
 tumbling bay, which had a pretty effect. Far- 
 leigh is celebrated for its hops, and the fruit 
 called apples, and it may well be spoken of. We 
 saw, indeed, here a sight we may perhaps never 
 see again. In one large apple orchard near the 
 church there were immense apple trees, with con- 
 
297 
 
 siderably more apples thereon than leaves, and so 
 weighty was the fruit, that hundreds of wooden 
 supporters were obliged to be kept under the 
 branches to prevent them from breaking down. 
 There are, perhaps, more than a hundred different 
 sorts of apples, some fit to eat when first gathered 
 from the trees, others that will keep good eight or 
 nine months. They are a most valuable fruit ; in 
 England they are good to eat as a fruit, and are 
 used in either puddings, pies, or tarts ; the juice 
 of them when pressed makes a drink called cider, 
 which is nearly as good as champagne. The 
 apples, when growing, present a very beautiful 
 appearance ; they are of varied colours ; some of 
 them have rosy cheeks, some yellow, others of 
 every variety of green, whilst others are perfectly 
 brown and rough. We shall not soon forget the 
 pleasure of seeing apples and hops growing. This 
 clearly proves every country has its beauties. 
 France and Portugal boast of their vines, India 
 her plantains, mangos, and palm trees, and Eng- 
 land her apples and hops. We should think we 
 passed through a village called Tovil, where there 
 are several large paper manufactories, to Maid- 
 stone, and drove to the house of an intimate 
 friend of our companion, Mr. Baldock. His name 
 was Thomas Charles, Esq. ; he lived in a very 
 large old-fashioned house, called Chilhngton Man- 
 sion ; he is what is called an antiquarian ; he 
 shewed us a large collection of very ancient coins, 
 
298 
 
 a quantity of old armour^ and curiosities without 
 number; he has also some fine old paintings, and 
 is himself a very good painter ; he shewed us 
 scores of his own sketches taken from nature. 
 He was kind enough to allow our servant to pre- 
 pare tea and coffee for us, and treated us very 
 kindly. We saw among his collection a valuable 
 Indian inlaid cabinet. We walked about Maid- 
 stone; it is an old-fashioned, well-built town; 
 it has a bridge over the Medway, and is 36 miles 
 from London ; there are several manufactories of 
 paper close by. We w^alked to see the barracks, 
 which are for horse soldiers designed for India ; 
 but we were followed by a dense crowd of persons 
 attracted by our costume, and as our friend knew 
 the governor of the gaol, we went in there to get 
 rid of the pressure ; but when we came out, they 
 had increased so very considerably, that we could 
 not see all that our friend wished to shew us. 
 We went through the churchyard, from whence 
 there is a very pretty view, and walked over the 
 bridge to an eminence called Rocky Hill, where 
 there is a spring, that supplies by pipes the town 
 of Maidstone with water. Maidstone is seen to 
 much advantage from the upper part of Rocky 
 Hill. The gaol, and the court-house adjoining, 
 where the prisoners are tried, is most extensive. 
 They are built of Kentish rag-stone, quarried upon 
 the spot, and possess every advantage which 
 prisons can have for keeping prisoners distinct, 
 
299 
 
 with tread wheels for the incorrigible^ and the 
 cleanliness of the cells surpasses belief. They 
 must have cost very many thousands of pounds. 
 We were accompanied in our walks all over the 
 town by vast numbers of people. And we should 
 have said^ that all the little places through which 
 we passed^ poured forth nearly their whole popu- 
 lation to gaze upon us in our foreign costume. 
 We took refreshments with Mr. Charles^ and 
 although it was dark when we quitted his resi- 
 dence^ some scores of people were assembled out- 
 side to see us get into our carriage. We were 
 much pleased with our ride through the most 
 l>eautiful part of Kent, and we think it is very 
 properly named, from the variety of-its produc- 
 tions, the '^^ Garden of England.^^ 
 
 We now take leave of the county of Kent^ but 
 not without conveying our grateful acknowledg- 
 ments to our valued friend Thomas Baldock, Esq., 
 through whose kind and polite attention we have 
 been enabled to see a great many sights, and have 
 obtained much general information. 
 
300 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 SHEERNESS DOCK YARD. 
 
 During our residence at Chatham, we went to 
 inspect this Dock Yard, accompanied by our kind 
 friend Mr. Adams, of Chatham Yard. Sheerness 
 Yard is a proof of what money and science will do 
 in England, as it is built upon a point of land 
 consisting of mud which was once part of the sea, 
 and under the coating of mud are quicksands in 
 which long piles driven for the masonry to rest 
 upon, used often to go down and disappear in 
 the sands. A fort was built to defend the 
 entrance of the Medway and the Thames, and a 
 Dock Yard estabhshed at Sheerness, in the reign 
 of Charles the Second. This Dock Yard is well 
 worth inspection ; since the year 1815, it has been 
 very considerably enlarged. The area of the yard 
 is 59 acres, and it is surrounded by a wall, except- 
 ing that part which faces the water ; the length 
 of the west wall is 2093 feet ; length of south wall 
 880 feet ; there are three basins within the yard ; 
 the largest one (capable of containing several first 
 
301 
 
 rates with their guns^ ballast^ and stores of every 
 description on board them fit for sea) is 520 feet 
 long, and 300 feet broad, having an entrance of 
 60 feet, secured by a Caisson, which always keeps 
 the water within of sufficient depth, to prevent the 
 ships grounding. The middle basin is 250 by 
 200 feet, having an entrance of 49 feet, and the 
 north basin 282 feet 6 inches, by 200 feet six 
 inches, with an entrance of 102 feet. In the 
 south basin there are three dry docks, 248 feet 
 long, 88 feet wide, and 30 feet deep^ having 
 entrances 57 feet wide, and which admit of ships 
 being docked and undocked at any time. 
 
 And here is also a frigate dock 207 feet long^ 
 75 feet broad, 19 feet 9 inches deep, with an 
 entrance 57 feet wide. Some idea may be formed 
 of the magnitude of the works carried on in 
 altering and enlarging the dock yard, when it is 
 stated that for making the foundation alone, ninety- 
 nine thousand piles were driven. One of the 
 most curious things to be seen in Sheerness Dock 
 Yard, is the very extraordinary model of the yard 
 upon a very large scale. We have mentioned that 
 where Sheerness Yard now stands, the sea used to 
 flow over ; we have told that it is constructed 
 upon a muddy ooze which had no firm bottom^ 
 having quicksands beneath^ and there never were 
 perhaps greater obstacles to be overcome than in 
 getting a foundation. Piles almost innumerable 
 were driven, grouting of lime^ gravel, and cement 
 
302 
 
 poured in by thousands of tons^ upon which 
 bricks^ sleepers^, and masonry were placed^ and at 
 last^ at an enormous outlay of capital^ and the ap- 
 phcation of the greatest mechanical and archi- 
 tectural talent^ all the difficulties were overcome, 
 and that yard stands as a monument of what 
 British capital and British assiduity can execute. 
 
 It became necessary to have large culverts and 
 drains, and as drawings would not so well explain 
 all these things, and where many piles were 
 driven, it was determined to have this model made, 
 it is in the upper part of the quadrangular store- 
 house, in a room of immense size, and it is curious 
 indeed to inspect it ; every building more particu- 
 larly the smithy is quite full of piles, under each 
 of the slips and of the docks the piles are driven 
 as closely as they could be got together. Every 
 erection has a forest of piles of timber beneath it, 
 and then the execution of the model, how beauti- 
 ful, how accurately every thing is delineated ; there 
 is the house built for the commissioner and prin- 
 cipal officers, view them through a powerful mag- 
 nifying glass, and you are led to believe you look 
 upon the reality instead of the mere model. It 
 may appear a useless expense, but when it is re- 
 membered how important it may be should any 
 buildings sink, or any of the drains blow up from 
 the pressure of the water in them, that the exact 
 position of every part should be known, it will 
 sanction the expense. The model of the basin 
 
303 
 
 with its caisson entrance and the gates of the 
 docks are beautifully finished^ and although it has 
 been the work of years^ we think the money well 
 laid out^ as there is nothing in the shape of a 
 model for accuracy and elegance to equal this in 
 England. 
 
 The storehouses in the dock yard are all built of 
 stone and iron^ and the roofs covered with slates^ 
 pillars^ beams^ rafters, window-frames, doors, &c. 
 are all made of iron, and w^ood is totally dispensed 
 with, it is a great protection against fire to the 
 buildings, and should unfortunately a fire happen 
 it can never injure the houses. 
 
 The great object of establishing this yard, was 
 that of fitting out of ships in time of war; the 
 difficulty of vessels getting into the Thames or 
 Med way for going either to Woolwich or Chatham^ 
 was thus completely got over, however, the rapid 
 strides in steam navigation makes it very easy to 
 tow large ships into either of these rivers at pre- 
 sent, and takes away from Sheerness Yard that 
 importance which was then attached to it. 
 
 The first stone of the north end was laid in 
 November, 1809, and the basin was opened^ and 
 the first ship taken in, in September, 1823, since 
 which period, considerable improvements have 
 been made by the erection of storehouses, roofs to 
 the docks, and buildings for the manufacture of 
 roman cement, which is carried on here very 
 extensively to supply all the dock yards at home 
 and abroad. 
 
304 
 
 A very valuable stone which is found mixed 
 with the shingle or pebbles^ is thrown up by the 
 sea upon the beach close to Sheerness^ which is 
 used for the manufacturing of the roman cement ; 
 it is a species of clay petrified^ of a whitish brown 
 colour, and is sought after with much avidity, for 
 its superiority over every other description of 
 cement stone ; and when collected^ is sold for 
 fourteen shillings per ton, for burning into cement, 
 for stuccoing the fronts of houses, and for uniting 
 stones, and is in a few minutes after it is mixed as 
 hard as stone itself. 
 
 A splendid residence has been erected for the 
 Port Admiral, at the Garrison Point, and very 
 commodious houses for the principal officers, have 
 also been built, eight within the dock yard, and 
 seven outside the yard facing the beach. The 
 dock yard chapel is without the walls of the yard, 
 adjoining the officers' houses; it is a handsome 
 erection and capable of containing about fifteen 
 hundred persons. 
 
 The cliffs of the Isle of Sheppy are about six 
 miles in length, (the highest about 90 feet high) 
 on the north and north east side of the island, 
 they have long been celebrated for the numerous 
 organic remains found in them ; upwards of seven 
 hundred different specimens of fossil plants, fruits, 
 berries, and ligneous seed vessels have been 
 enumerated. Among the animal remains found 
 in these cliffs, are several varieties of the crab ; 
 
305 
 
 the nautilus in abundance^ tortoises^ the jaws of 
 crocodiles, lobsters^ and fishes^ in fine preserva- 
 tion ; all these remains (animal and vegetable) are 
 impregnated with sulphuret of iron, or pyrites, and 
 it is necessary for the preservation of them pre- 
 vious to placing them in a cabinet^ to dip them 
 into boiling linseed oil, otherwise, after a few 
 years they will crumble into pieces. Large masses 
 of petrified wood are frequently found, principally 
 oak and elm. 
 
 Sheerness is in the Island of Sheppy ; it has the 
 river Thames and Medway on the west, and the 
 ocean on the northern, and eastern sides. Sheppy 
 is about 30 miles in circumference, being about 
 13 miles long, and 6 miles broad. A pier extend- 
 ing 1300 feet into the river, affords a good landing 
 place. Until near the close of the last century, 
 much inconvenience was felt from the want of 
 fresh water, there being no wells in the place, and 
 the ships and inhabitants of the town were sup- 
 plied with water from Chatham, 14 miles distant, 
 but the government having at a great expence, 
 dug to the depth of 320 feet, and passed through 
 several quicksands, procured at last a plentiful 
 supply of good water, and three other wells have 
 since been dug to supply all the town with this 
 very necessary article for cleanliness, and for the 
 purpose of quenching thirst. The view from the 
 dock yard gates at Sheerness is most beautiful, as 
 it looks towards the mouth of the river Thames, 
 
306 
 
 and here every ship must pass to go to London, 
 consequently ships of all sizes and of every nation 
 are constantly passing and repassing^ and there is 
 a fine sea view looking out to the Nore, and thus 
 away to the great ocean. 
 
307 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 WOOLWICH YARD AND ARSENAL. 
 
 Accompanied by our cousin Ardaseer Cursetjee, 
 we paid a visit on the 18th of April, 1840, to this 
 dock yard, it is eight miles east of London, situated 
 on the banks of the river Thames, in the county 
 of Kent ; Woolwich Dock Yard, is said to be the 
 oldest royal dock yard in the kingdom. It is about 
 three quarters of a mile in length, and about one- 
 sixth of a mile in depth. Woolwich yard has 
 several building slips and dry docks, but it has of 
 late years been more immediately appropriated for 
 the fitting out of steam vessels belonging to the 
 crown, and for this purpose an immense basin has 
 been dug in the yard, capable of containing several 
 of the largest steam ships which can lay afloat in 
 the basin, and their steam machinery is fitted, 
 tried, and adjusted here. There are several build- 
 ings surrounding the basin where the boilers are 
 examined and repaired, and indeed, there is here 
 every thing required for steam engines, and more 
 particularly marine steam machinery. It is one of 
 
308 
 
 those establishments in which the English govern- 
 ment keep pace with the improvements of the 
 day^ and we think it would be very desirable for 
 the government to rear up^ in their own establish- 
 ments, large nmnbers of men of every department 
 connected with steam machinery^ by taking young 
 men apprentices,, and thus in a short time the 
 different steam ships when launched^ could be 
 fitted with their engines and machinery by their 
 own people^ instead of being obliged as they now 
 are to get part of their engines in London, some 
 from Scotland, &c. 
 
 Large docks are now constructing in this yard, 
 and a great many improvements have been made of 
 late, so that there is very little doubt from its 
 proximity to the seat of government, and its 
 situation on the banks of the Thames, that this 
 arsenal in course of a few years will become one of 
 the first importance. 
 
 The buildings and the storehouses are very 
 large, and all the officers have suitable residences 
 within the walls of the establishments. 
 
 There is a large smithy which has two steam 
 engines, one of fourteen and the other of twenty 
 horse power, the former is employed in blowing 
 the fires, by forcing the air through large cylinders, 
 and the latter in lifting two large tilt hammers, 
 each of which weigh nearly four tons, they are 
 lifted by machinery at the height of nine inches, 
 and the strokes are from forty to fifty in one 
 
309 
 
 minute. These hammers are principally used for 
 manufacturing anchors, knees, and other large iron 
 works connected with the establishment. A small 
 steamer called the Locust was to be launched this 
 day at this dock yard which we witnessed^ and had 
 the honour of seeing Lord Minto, who was come 
 there to see the launch. 
 
 At Woolwich also is an extensive establishment 
 for making cannons, fireworks, and gun carriages ; 
 it is called the Royal Arsenal, and one of the 
 furnaces here will melt seventeen tons of metal at 
 one time. The cannons are first cast into moulds, 
 and then bored with machines^ moved by three 
 horses; these animals are so trained that they 
 stop and go on by the ringing of a bell ; we were 
 astonished to see them evince such signs of in- 
 tellect, and it shows that animals have, with the 
 exception of the faculty of speech^ reason and 
 understanding equal to man. It takes about four 
 or five days to bore a large gun ; the process is 
 extremely simple^ and upon our remarking why 
 a steam engine was not used to propel the ma- 
 chinery, we were told that the present plan is so 
 perfect that eighty years have now elapsed since 
 its adoption^ and that during this long period it 
 has not cost £lOO. to keep it in order; notwith 
 standing this an engine is to be erected very 
 shortly, and there is little doubt that the work will 
 be performed with much more rapidity than at 
 present. 
 
310 
 
 In a building called the laboratory are deposited 
 models or samples of congreve rockets, bomb- 
 shells, hand-grenades, carcasses, fire-ships, and all 
 the articles used in modern warfare. A man who 
 is in charge of the building explains the use of all 
 the things that are to be seen here. 
 
 There is a large building 300 feet in length, on 
 the ground floor of which are to be seen an immense 
 number of difl'erent things with which ships of 
 war are supplied, and there were 150,000 muskets, 
 which were kept in deal boxes, ready to be 
 issued ; above this is what is called the harness 
 room where 10,000 military saddles and a great 
 number of harnesses are kept in readiness for the 
 army, the whole arrangement is very good, as 
 there appeared to be a place for every thing and 
 every thing for a place. 
 
 On two sides of this building are large plots of 
 ground where thousands of guns and shots are 
 kept which appear very beautiful. The whole of 
 this establishment occupies an area of 60 square 
 acres, and here diflferent people are taught the art 
 of gunnery, or how to use most effectually the 
 articles here manufactured for destroying armies, 
 burning ships, storming fortresses, and bombard- 
 ing towns. 
 
 We admired the arrangement, and order, and 
 discipline of the establishment, but we cannot say 
 that we were pleased with it ; we could not help 
 thinking what a sad and melancholy reflection 
 
311 
 
 it is upon poor human nature, thus to construct 
 machines as it were for the wholesale destruction 
 of human life — for destroying our fellow brethren 
 on earth, whom the merciful and benevolent God 
 created to love and do good to each other. 
 
 We indulge in the hope that these implements 
 may never be used for the purpose they are in- 
 tended, that when education has more generally 
 diffused itself, that all warfare will cease, and peace 
 and love will prevail, and that when nations or 
 states quarrel, they will appoint arbitrators to 
 settle the difference without any bloodshed. 
 
312 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 THE CUSTOM HOUSE, AND THE DOCKS 
 OF LONDON. 
 
 Among the busy scenes of London^ perhaps 
 there is not, on certain hours of the day, one of 
 more activity than the Custom House, to which 
 we paid a visit. It is not very far from London 
 Bridge on the side of the river ; it is the place 
 where all ships that are leaving London, with 
 cargoes, or even if in ballast, have to obtain a 
 cocket or clearance, stating the day they left the 
 port and the nature of the cargo. All ships, upon 
 their arrival, have to be reported, and the strictest 
 account given of every thing they have on board, 
 in order that the several officers connected with 
 the customs may take an account of the same, 
 and that the duties may be paid thereon. The 
 Custom House is a beautiful building of modern 
 erection, (the former one having been burnt down 
 in 1814. The length of the front is about 
 500 feet ; and the great room for business, 
 commonly called the long room is nearly 190 feet 
 long and 66 feet wide. And there are many 
 
313 
 
 hundreds of persons^ consisting of captains and 
 mates of ships, clerks to merchants, brokers, and 
 shipping agents, in this room every day. 
 
 The commerce of London is much faciUtated 
 by the capital accommodations afforded to shipping 
 by the immense large docks for the merchant 
 v^sels, where they have their cargoes taken out 
 and put into warehouses. In these docks many 
 vessels lay in still water alongside quays. The 
 London Dock Company was formed in 1800, and 
 their docks extend from Wapping to Shadwell, 
 containing in the whole about 70 acres of ground ; 
 the docks are large enough to contain three hun- 
 dred ships, exchisive of lighters, and the ware- 
 houses can hold 200,000 tons of goods. There 
 are also vaults or cellars for 70,000 pipes of 
 wine or spirits, and in addition to which there 
 is a commodious jetty 800 feet long and 65 feet 
 widC;, with a shed thereon 450 feet long, under 
 w^hich an immense quantity of goods intended for 
 shipment to India, or Australia, are stowed con- 
 veniently for putting on board the vessels which 
 lay on either side to receive goods. There are at 
 this time (March, 1841,) thirty-two large ships 
 taking in their cargoes, and it was amusing to see 
 the varieties of articles shipped for some of the 
 new Australian settlements. There were entire 
 houses cut out in frame, and numbered and marked 
 ill such a way that they can readily be put together in 
 a few hours after their arrival. We -1 that 
 
314 
 
 a church had been sent out this way^ and we saw 
 all the varied furniture^ glass, china, earthenware, 
 &c. shipped here, and one would think there was 
 enough to stock a nation. 
 
 Two ships deeply loaded for the Australian 
 colonies were just passing out^ and we saw a face 
 or two^ peeping from the cabins, of persons^ wj^o 
 no doubt were about bidding a long, most likely a 
 last, farewell to their native land. 
 
 The western dock has 20 acres, the eastern 
 dock 7 acres, and the Wapping basin 3 acres^ of 
 water. The Shadwell entrance is three quarters 
 of a mile below the Wapping entrance^ it is a 
 mile below the Hermitage entrance and nearly a 
 mile and a quarter below the entrance to the St. 
 Katharine's dock ; the whole of the wharfs were 
 strewed with casks^ called puncheons, of 100 
 gallons, and hogsheads of 56 gallons, full of 
 brandy, of which immense quantities are now 
 being imported, it being generally thought, that 
 the import duty upon brandy and French wines 
 are about to be lowered. 
 
 They sometimes employ here from three to four 
 thousand persons. There are also the East India 
 Docks at Blackwall, the West India, the Commer- 
 cial Docks, St. Katharine^s Docks, and the 
 Grand Surrey Canal Docks. We were here in- 
 formed of what appeared to us a most singular 
 fact, that the number of acres of water in the 
 London Docks, are just equal to the whole 
 
315 
 
 number of land and water within the St. Katha- 
 rine^s Docks^ and that the acres of water in the 
 West India Docks are just equal to the whole of 
 the land and water contained in the London 
 Docks. 
 
 These docks are of great importance and value 
 tGUthe merchants of London^ as prior to their con- 
 struction, ships had to be unloaded in the river 
 into barges^ lighters^ or hoys^ and the plunder 
 was immense^ but now the property is secure 
 from danger, as the several dock companies hold 
 themselves responsible for the safe custody of all 
 goods landed in their respective docks. 
 
 Much inconvenience is experienced by parties 
 who formerly used to deposit goods in the East 
 and West India Docks^ from the heavy expense 
 of carting them, in consequence of their being 
 situated about three miles from the city, and it 
 was thought by some that the difficulty would be 
 obviated by the erection of the Blackwall Railway^ 
 but competent persons who have seen the opera- 
 tion of other railways now in use^ tell us that 
 heavy bulky articles will never be conveyed in any 
 quantities upon rail roads, as the price charged per 
 ton for conveyance will become very expensive. 
 
 The East India Docks are now and have been 
 for some time used as a sort of canal for steam 
 ships, and others^ to lay up in instead of for 
 the purpose they were originally intended. The 
 outlay in the erection of the London Docks some 
 
SiG 
 
 some years since, was proved to have been three 
 million and two hundred thousand pounds. We 
 strongly recommend every person who can obtain 
 an order to pay them a visit as they possess much 
 to attract general interest 
 
317 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 Vauxhall, Gardens. 
 
 We paid an evening visits during our residence in 
 England^ to this delightful place of amusement. 
 They are on the Surrey side of the water^ not far 
 from Vauxhall Bridge, and we were amply repaid 
 for the trouble we took to visit this place. The 
 lamps^ of all sorts of colours^ with which this 
 place is illuminated, are almost innumerable ; the 
 gardens are laid out most tastefully, and upon 
 nearly every tree lights are hung, as well as all 
 along the gravel walks, arranged the same as ours 
 in Bombay upon festive occasions, commonly 
 termed Lunca.^^ At one end of the gardens is 
 a handsome fountain of water, where Neptune, 
 the heathen god of the sea, is represented in the 
 act of driving his chariot with five horses ; the 
 figures and the attitudes of the horses are re- 
 markably well executed; the water is forced 
 through the nostrils of these animals by a steam 
 engine, but the most surprising thing is the smoke 
 or vapour that comes from the nostrils similar to 
 
318 
 
 that which is seen to arise from hard driven 
 horses, when they are out of breathy and which is 
 accompanied with the noise similar to that which 
 is made by horses when they breathe with diffi- 
 culty caused by being overdriven. We spent four 
 hours promenading in all the parts^ and saw most 
 magnificent fireworks, which were very far supe- 
 rior to any we have in Bombay. Refreshments 
 of all kinds may be had in the boxes fitted up for 
 that purpose in the gardens; the prices of all the 
 things that are sold are fixed up in each box. 
 The entertainments, besides the brilliant illumi- 
 nation and the fireworks, consist of little theatrical 
 performances, with some very good hired dancers, 
 singings and a very good concert by a large band, 
 which plays until a very late hour; and if the 
 weather is fine, a large number of the persons 
 amuse themselves with dancing. The gardens 
 were open three nights in each week, Monday, 
 Wednesday, and Friday; the price of admission 
 was four shillings. The doors opened at eight, 
 and the performances commenced at nine. It 
 was (for we speak of it as a thing no longer in 
 existence) a most charming way of spending a 
 rational agreeable evening. 
 
31.9 
 
 .CHAPTER XXV. 
 Illumination of London. 
 
 On the 10th of February, 1840, Her Majesty, 
 Queen Victoria, was married to her first cousin, 
 Prince Albert of Saxe Coburg and Gotha, and as 
 we were near London, we made up our minds to 
 see the beautiful illuminations that were to take 
 place in the evening in honor of that event. 
 The weather had been squally during the day, but 
 in the evening it became tolerably fine. The 
 greater part of the illuminations consisted of 
 small variegated oil lamps of all colours disposed 
 into fanciful devices, and in many instances form- 
 ing words. The gas was in many instances used 
 instead of lamps ; and very beautiful devices and 
 wreaths was the lighted gas made to form. The 
 prevalent devices were a star, a crown, V. A. for 
 Victoria and Albert, or V. P. for Victoria and 
 Prince, or V. R., Victoria Regina, and P. A., 
 Prince Albert. Wreaths, called love knots, were 
 to be seen, and another brilliant one, called a 
 bride's favour, was abundant. The East India 
 
320 
 
 House had two stars enclosing the letters V and 
 surrounded by two cornucopias, or horns of 
 plenty ; the whole supporting a magnificent impe- 
 rial crown, with laurels, &c. Along the columns 
 in front were suspended strings of lamps, and a 
 double string of lamps extended along the whole 
 front of the building. The whole of the illumi- 
 nation of the India House was in variegated 
 lamps, and had a most beautiful effect. There 
 were immense crowds in the street, and upon 
 Cornhill we got separated from our friend. There 
 was a pretty transparent lighted picture at the 
 British Bullion Office, on which was Long may 
 she reign. The Mansion House had V. A., a 
 star, and a crown. At the Bank of England the 
 illumination was very beautiful — ^it was a perfect 
 glare of light. Each lamp along the front had a 
 star in gas over it; and the whole row of lamp 
 posts was united by double festoons of variegated 
 lamps. In Cheapside there was a beautiful 
 transparency at Butler^s, the chemist^s, and the 
 Atlas Insurance Office, was very beautiful. So- 
 merset House, in the Strand, crowns and stars 
 in gas, and beautiful lamps. At Ackerman's, the 
 printseller^s, in the Strand, was a beautiful tran- 
 sparency of the Queen, and the motto, 
 
 " Great and glorious, firm and free. 
 Still victorious may she be 
 and, underneath, Britain's pride the arms of 
 England, and the Lion and Unicorn. This was 
 
321 
 
 by far the handsomest thing we ever saw. A 
 great crowd was assembled here. All the club- 
 houses at the west end of London, where the 
 nobility and gentry resort to, were very beautiful ; 
 and all the houses belonging to the tradesmen 
 with whom the Queen lays out her money, were 
 brilliant. The Ordnance Office in Pall Mall was 
 the most brilliant ; with lamps in the centre were 
 the arms of the Ordnance Department, and, in 
 the upper part, white roses and Albert and Vic- 
 toria, the order of the Bath and the order of the 
 Garter, the order of the Thistle and the order of 
 Saint Patrick, with branches and fruit on them, 
 and, below, cannons with piles of cannon balls. 
 This was as beautiful as an illumination could be. 
 The Admiralty had, in variegated lamps, an an- 
 chor and the union jack flag, and branches with 
 V. R. and P. A., all in lamps. The War Office, 
 crown, initials, and the order of the Bath. The 
 Horse Guards was most brilliant; it was gas 
 lights introduced into coloured lamps, and was 
 most beautiful. The Treasury was also very bril- 
 liant. We cannot select any others, as the whole 
 of the streets was a perfect blaze of light ; and it 
 has never been our good fortune to see so brilliant, 
 so beautiful, so gorgeous a spectacle. It was truly 
 pleasing to behold the countless thousands of 
 people orderly and happily doing homage to their 
 Queen, and thus cordially testifying their appro- 
 bation in the choice she had made of a husband ; 
 
322 
 
 and we^ as subjects of the British Crown^ felt as 
 much happiness and interest in the scene as any- 
 one ; and we had passing in our minds that the 
 great and good God would bless this marriage. 
 We hoped that to the Queen individually^ and to 
 the nation generally^ the union that had that day 
 taken place might be productive of lasting benefit. 
 We felt happy that as she had thus early become 
 a wife^ that she might have a something in this 
 world especially to love and to live for — that she 
 might have a kind constant friend^ an agreeable 
 companion. And we wished^ what we stopped in 
 England long enough to see realized, that their 
 union might be blessed with children. We would 
 implore of our universal Deity that health may be 
 her portion for many years. May she have firm- 
 ness of mind to enable her to reign in the hearts 
 of her people for very many years. May she 
 always, remembering the valuable instruction she 
 received from her mother, set apart a portion of 
 every day to superintending the early education of 
 her offspring, grounding them strongly in the love 
 of virtue and the abhorrence of vice ; so that in 
 after days should any of them be called upon to 
 rule over a mighty nation^s destmies they may be 
 found fitted for the task. May Prince Albert her 
 husband love and cherish her as he has sworn to 
 do. May their pilgrimage on earth be for many, 
 many years; and may they both so live as to 
 occupy positions of bhss in a brighter sphere. 
 
323 
 
 It may not be known to many of our countrymen, 
 that the husband of a reigning Glueen of England, 
 does not by his marriage become a King. And 
 as he is not allowed any political power, he has 
 a difficult part to abstain from mixing up in the 
 political parties, that are constantly before the 
 public with some agitating question, but in so 
 doing he will promote his own happiness. For 
 what makes the public cheer a man in the streets 
 of England one year, the self same public, or mob 
 as they are called, will hoot the same person for 
 years after. Political popularity is very uncertain. 
 Very many of those who were almost worshipped 
 by the mob a few years ago, now because they are 
 not prepared to go quite so far as public feeling 
 requires are quite unpopular. Men who have 
 been foremost in introducing reformation into 
 certain institutions, because they are not prepared 
 for a total change, are thought to be altered men 
 by tlie public. When the real fact is that it is 
 the public who have altered and not the indi- 
 viduals. A great many important alterations have 
 been made within the last ten years in govern- 
 ment regulations, but still the people w^io carried 
 out these things know that there must be a stop 
 some time to alterations, and then the public say 
 
 they are not prepared to go far enough. Mol) 
 popularity is therefore not to be coveted. 
 
324 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 WINDSOR CASTLE. 
 
 On the 31st of March^ 1841, we went to 
 Windsor to see the private and public apartments 
 at the castle, for which we had an order from the 
 Lord Chamberlain^, the Earl of Uxbridge. We left 
 London in company with our friend^ Mr. Robert 
 Adams of Chatham Yard by the Great Western 
 Railway at nine o'clock in the morning, and 
 reached Slough in about thirty-five minutes, from 
 whence we proceeded to Windsor by an omnibus. 
 
 The entrance to the castle is seen by turning up 
 Castle Street, and a fine road leads to it. The 
 first building that arrested our attention was St. 
 George's Chapel, a noble and magnificent old 
 structure, we then came to a most capacious 
 quadrangular paved court, at the west end of 
 which we saw an equestrian bronze statue of 
 King Charles the Second^ which we were in- 
 formed formerly stood in the centre of this square. 
 The appearance of the castle from the quadrangle 
 is very majestic and grand. The public apart- 
 
325 
 
 ments which are always open for inspection arc 
 on the north ; Her Majesty's private apartments 
 are on the east and south^ and the round tower on 
 the west side of the square. 
 
 A considerable portion of the castle has been 
 repaired and much improvements made by the 
 celebrated Architect Sir Jeffry Wyatville by the 
 order of King George the Fourth^ to whom^ the 
 credit of rendering this place truly worthy of 
 the residence of British sovereigns, is to be attri- 
 buted ; he spent large sums of money in augment- 
 ing and furnishing the palace, and his notions of 
 things is said to have been princely; this personage 
 is represented as the first gentleman of the age he 
 lived in, he was the most accomplished man that 
 ever adorned the British throne, and for politeness 
 and elegance of taste he is said to have been 
 never exceeded. 
 
 He never had any thing done which was not truly 
 splendid and magnificent, he cared little for spend- 
 ing thousands of pounds upon objects which were 
 of no other use than to please the eye. 
 
 We first saw the private apartments, we en- 
 tered through what is called the visitors' entrance, 
 and a lady, who is the housekeeper, showed us 
 the apartments. On ascending a noble stair case 
 we entered a corridor which at first sight struck 
 us with amazement and wonder, it is what we 
 should call a varendah, 520 feet long and about 
 1 8 feet wdde, by folding doors it communicates with 
 
326 
 
 all the principal rooms. It is also used as an 
 indoor promenade when the weather is unfavour- 
 able and is so costly and tastefully furnished as 
 to bafHe all description. The ceiling is very 
 richly gilt in various pleasing and ornamental de- 
 vices^ and on both sides of the corridor are placed 
 a variety of ornamental and curious things^ elegant 
 cabinets^ tables, chairs and such other things^ 
 ancient and modern, so distributed as to afford a 
 varied and pleasing picture to the eye ; here are 
 some hundreds of busts in marble of members of 
 the Royal Family, foreign princes, English noble- 
 men, heroes who fought battles and other distin- 
 guished persons living and dead, almost all of 
 which were the productions of the best sculptors. 
 
 The corridor is divided into two parts by a pair 
 of folding doors, which when opened the whole 
 length, with the splendid furniture give it an air 
 of grandeur and magnificence not to be surpassed. 
 
 We were then shown into the Dutchess of 
 Kent^s apartments, which consisted of a drawing- 
 room, a dressing and a bed room, the walls of 
 these rooms are hung with beautiful and light 
 coloured silk damask, and the ceiling and doors 
 are chastely ornamented with gilt mouldings ; the 
 bed was after the French fashion, that is, a bed- 
 stead, without the curtain poles, is placed against 
 the w^all and three poles project out above the bed, 
 the middle one of which is a little higher than the 
 other two, over these the curtains are thrown, it is 
 
327 
 
 also called a canopy bed. The frame of her 
 Royal Highnesses bedstead was nicely carved and 
 gilt and the curtains was of fine silk. 
 
 We then came into a small room in which we 
 were informed that the late King and his brother 
 King George the Fourth died^ it was handsomely 
 fitted up, but not in use. 
 
 From this we were conducted to Her Majesty's 
 writing room, which was a small one but elegantly 
 furnished, the walls were covered with silk and 
 the ceiling and the doors had some very good 
 carving, which was gilt. 
 
 There are three large rooms which are called the 
 white, green, and crimson drawing rooms, which 
 are the best, and the most expensively fitted up ; 
 their walls are hung with fine silks of the colour 
 that their names respectively indicate, and chairs 
 and sofas cushioned with silks of the same colour 
 and quality, the carpets are very beautiful of the 
 first rate workmanship, and of the colour to match 
 the hangings. These rooms are hghted with very 
 large and handsome windows, and command a 
 delightful view of the park together with the coun- 
 try several miles round. 
 
 The doors which lead from one room to the 
 other have on their pannels, carved devices, all 
 different from each other, the carvings are the 
 most perfect specimens of the art and masterly 
 executed ; all the doors are most luxuriantly gilt 
 and burnished, and the appearance of these rooms, 
 
328 
 
 the magnificence and the costliness of furniture 
 and the profusion of gilded decorations^ all is so 
 beautiful and so truly splendid, that we cannot 
 by any possibility convey even the faintest idea of 
 it to our countrymen ; suffice it to say that it is 
 quite ivorthy of the occupation of Kings and 
 Queens of this mighty country. 
 
 Next to the crimson drawing room is the 
 Queen^s dining room^ which is of princely dimen- 
 sions. On a gilt table stands the magnificent 
 wine cooler^ made in London by the celebrated 
 jewellers, Rundell and Bridge, for King George 
 the Fourth ; it is silver gilt^ richly chased, and 
 most exquisitely finished. We could not learn 
 its weight, but is large enough for a full grown 
 person to sit in wdth ease, and requires six men 
 to lift it. This splendid thing is said to have cost 
 £10,500. sterling! 
 
 We forgot to mention, that in the corridor 
 there is a cabinet of dark wood, very beautifully 
 carved, and which belonged to Cardinal Wolsey, 
 who lived in the sixteenth century, and that all 
 the cabinets in the splendid suite of rooms we 
 have just noticed, are of most superb manufac- 
 ture, many of them were inlaid with mother of 
 pearl, ebony, satin, and such other expensive 
 wood. 
 
 We are much indebted to the housekeeper for 
 her attention to us. We here think it proper to 
 state, that the Queen's own apartments are not 
 
329 
 
 allowed to be shewn to any one^ and they are 
 only open when her Majesty resides at the castle^ 
 and the private apartments can only be seen 
 during her absence from Windsor. 
 
 The state apartments are open to the public 
 every day (except Sunday)^ from nine in the morn- 
 ing till six in the evening. They are also magni- 
 ficent and well decorated rooms, and will amply 
 repay the trouble of visiting them. These apart- 
 ments command a delightful prospect of the pic- 
 turesque and almost evergreen neighbourhood of 
 Windsor, and contain a valuable collection of oil 
 paintings and tapestry. 
 
 The entrance for the public is through a porch, 
 Avhere a porter is stationed (the present porter is 
 a civil man, and has all the court politeness about 
 him), and ascending a flight of stairs, we come to 
 a small room called the Queen's Audience Cham- 
 ber; the walls are decorated with French tapestry^ 
 that is^ pictures made by coloured woollen threads^ 
 on a coarse fabric, and so beautiful is the working 
 of it, that one could hardly believe it was not 
 a painting, and to prove how nearly it resembles it^ 
 the ceiling, which is really painted in the same 
 style, is very difficult to distinguish from the 
 tapestry, as the whole looks as if it were done 
 by one artist. 
 
 Going through a door on the right, v/e find 
 ourselves in the Queen^s ball room, which is of 
 great length, but the appearance is very plain ; 
 
330 
 
 the ceiling is of stucco, and there are a great 
 many pictures by a celebrated artist called Van- 
 dyke, among which is a portrait of his own, and a 
 head of King Charles the First, in three different 
 views, which has a rather novel appearance. 
 
 The next is the Queen's drawing room, which 
 has eight paintings by Vandyke. The ceiling of 
 this room is of stucco, and emblematically painted 
 with the arms of England, and bearing the initials 
 W. R. Leaving this, we were shewn into the 
 Queen's closet ; it is a small room, and there are 
 a great many paintings by different masters ; we 
 had one particularly pointed out to us, which we 
 were told was painted by a German of the name 
 of Quintin Matsys; the picture represents two 
 misers in the act of counting their money, and, 
 indeed, it appeared to us to have been masterly 
 done ; the money, both in gold and silver, was so 
 w^ell painted, that it appeared as real coins ; this 
 picture is very much admired. We here saw two 
 tables, of about three feet in length and eighteen 
 inches wide, made of massive silver, and highly 
 finished ; they were both presented by the Cor- 
 poration of the City of London to Charles the 
 Second, and William the Third; here are also 
 three large glasses with massive silver frames. 
 The hangings are of light blue flowered silk, and 
 the frames of all the pictures are silvered instead 
 of gilt, which matches with the silk, and the whole 
 of the furniture has a chaste and elegant appear- 
 ance. 
 
331 
 
 The King^s council^ and drawing rooms, are 
 very fine ; they have silk crimson hangings, on 
 which are worked the Crown, the Order of the 
 Garter, and the initials G. R. (Georgius Rex), they 
 are decorated with good paintings, and the ceil- 
 ings are also painted, there is the anchor, trident, 
 and other emblems of naval superiority and pride 
 of England, painted on the ceiling of the Council 
 room. 
 
 The Throne room is complete, with the excep- 
 tion of the throne, and the part of the ceiling over 
 the throne is very richly decorated ; it is of large 
 dimensions, and has three full sized large portraits 
 of King George the Third, and Fourth, and the 
 late King; we looked at these likenesses with 
 wonder and surprise, at the perfection this fine art 
 is brought to in England ; we could not speak as 
 to their faithfulness, but the robes, and the effects 
 of light and shade, are very beautifully done. 
 This room is used by the Queen on state occa- 
 sions, when the throne is placed for her to sit 
 upon. 
 
 We were next shewn into a splendid apart- 
 ment, called the ball room, which is 90 feet in 
 length and 34 feet in width, this surpassed every 
 thing else that we saw in the castle. We gazed 
 on this splendid room, and at the costliness of 
 its fittings, with perfect astonishment. The walls 
 are hung with tapestry of the best kind, and the 
 ceiling is divided into five parts, the moulding and 
 
332 
 
 centres of which are decorated with various de- 
 vices in high rehef ; the cornice is equally elegant^ 
 and the whole of the relief work is gilt very beau- 
 tifully. The room is 33 feet in height, and four 
 elegant chandeliers are suspended from the ceil- 
 ing, which, when lighted^ must, we think, produce 
 an effect not to be seen any where else but within 
 the walls of Windsor Castle. Large doors^ which 
 lead from this magnificent apartment to the throne 
 room and the Waterloo gallery, have superior 
 and gilt carved work^ that can never be described 
 except by the pencil of an artist — they bear the 
 initials G. R. — as well as the fire-places, which 
 are in workmanship suitable to the room. 
 
 King George the Fourth had this room fur- 
 nished, and it shews his taste and his fondness of 
 splendour. W^e should say, that it would be next 
 to impossible for any man to attempt an improve- 
 ment. It is the most perfect and unique in itself, 
 and will admit of no alteration that could give it 
 a better appearance. The chairs and sofas are all 
 richly gilt, and have cushions of a most lively and 
 beautiful silk crimson velvet. We strongly re- 
 commend every stranger that visits England, and 
 every Englishman who can afford to pay the ex- 
 pense of going to Windsor, to see this room only, 
 if not all the public apartments, for which no 
 charges are made, and we are quite sure that they 
 will be amply repaid for their trouble. The floor 
 is of oak, and tastefully inlaid with ebony. At one 
 
333 
 
 end^ the room is lighted by a large gothic win- 
 dow^ and commands a very fine prospect. 
 
 The AVaterloo Chamber or Gallery as it is some- 
 times called is 98 feet long^ 47 feet broad, and 45 
 feet high, and is in the Elizabethan style of archi- 
 tecture. In this room all round are hung por- 
 traits of eminent men, sovereigns (except Napoleon) 
 commanders, and statesmen connected with the 
 battle of Waterloo, the hero (Duke of Wellington) 
 who fought the battle, is very conspicuously 
 placed in the centre of the wall at one end, and we 
 think if his antagonist was placed opposite to him, 
 it would have added considerably to the interest 
 of the collection ; four massive chandeliers are 
 suspended from the ceiling, and there are pro- 
 jecting galleries at either end of the room for the 
 musicians. The furniture, as well as the doors, 
 panellings, and the waihscoating at the lower 
 part of the walls are of light coloured oak. 
 
 We should think that this room will not at 
 all please a Frenchman, nor will he wish to see a 
 thing so wounding to the vanity of his country, 
 or to the national pride. 
 
 There is also a large room called the guard 
 chamber, where a great many things and trophies 
 taken in former wars and battles are preserved, as 
 a sort of national and military pride, — for here is a 
 piece of the mainmast of Lord Nelson's ship, the 
 Victory, through which a 10 inch shot passed, at 
 the battle of Trafalgar. On the top of the mast. 
 
334 
 
 is a bust of the immortal commander himself, 
 executed by Sir Francis Chantrey, On both sides 
 of this are two pieces of brass ordinance taken at 
 the capture of Seringapatam^ one of which is 
 richly inlaid with gold and silver. 
 
 There are also busts of the two greatest heroes 
 Eno-land ever produced, the Duke of Marlborough 
 and the Duke of Wellington, and a shield made of 
 silver and inlaid with gold, presented by Francis, 
 King of France, to King Henry the Vlllth, it is 
 beautifully engraved and revolves on a pivot over 
 the fire-place. Many armours and implements of 
 war such as we have described seeing in the 
 
 Tower of London,^' are also to be seen here. 
 
 The celebrated St. George's Hall is 200 feet in 
 length, 34 feet in breadth, and 32 in height ; the 
 south side of this room is entirely occupied by 
 windows which are thirteen in number, and the 
 north wall and the ceiling are embellished with the 
 shields and the armorial bearings of all the Knights 
 of the Garter, since the time of its establishment. 
 The ceiling is executed in plaster, and painted in 
 imitation of oak, which is so well done that one 
 is apt to be deceived unless told of it. The 
 armorial bearings are arranged in chronological 
 order, and are all numbered so as to be easily dis- 
 tinguished. The furniture such as sofas, chairs, 
 &c., are all of oak, and at either end there are 
 galleries for musicians, and at the east end is a 
 large chair on a platform for the sovereign to sit 
 
335 
 
 upon^ at the time of the installation of the Knights 
 of the Garter^ the ascent to which is by a flight of 
 oak steps, and the view and the perspective of the 
 hall from this platform is very beautiful. 
 
 The next room we saw was the state ante-room ; 
 some fine tapestry and carved work form the 
 principal decorations of the room ; here is also a 
 beautiful painting on glass of King George the 
 Third in his coronation robe, and the ceiling is 
 also beautifully painted, the subject of which is 
 from the heathen Mythology. 
 
 Here are some additions made to the castle, 
 consisting of a vestibule and a fine staircase, by the 
 late king ; it is in the Elizabethan style of archi- 
 tecture, the walls and the staircase are of Bath 
 stone with steps of Portland stone, and a beauti- 
 ful statue of George the Fourth, executed by Sir 
 F. Chantrey, is placed here. 
 
 The staircase communicates with rooms below, 
 and leads to the quadrangle, this improvement 
 must have cost a large sum of money. 
 
 There is belonging to the palace a very curious 
 and singular building called the Round Tower, 
 which is the residence of the governor or constable 
 of the castle. In former times when England was 
 perpetually disturbed with foreign and domestic 
 wars, this edifice was intended for the imprisonment 
 of distinguished men, and many foreign kings, 
 English and other noblemen have suffered cap- 
 tivity within the walls of this building ; the last 
 
336 
 
 person that was here confined was a German of 
 the name of Mareschal de Belleisle_, in the reign of 
 George the Second. 
 
 The Tower stands on an artificial eminence, 
 it is circular and built entirely of stone, the 
 diameter is about 100 feet^ and it is upwards of 
 200 feet in height, there are two hundred steps 
 from the bottom to the top, from whence there is a 
 most extensive and luxuriant view all round ; we 
 were told that on a clear sunny day twelve diffe- 
 rent counties are seen from here. 
 
 When the Queen is at Windsor, a flag, which 
 is called the royal standard is hoisted on a staff, 
 the extreme length of which is 73 feet. The flag 
 is 36 feet in length, and 24 feet in breadth. 
 When we looked round from the top we could see 
 but very imperfectly the prospect which it com- 
 mands in consequence of the day being hazy, and 
 we could not help thinking how charming and de- 
 lightful a view from such a place would be in India, 
 where there is always a clear sky, and if we may 
 use the term, perpetual Summer. 
 
 The beautiful place of worship called St. George's 
 Chapel, where the Queen and others who reside in 
 the castle perform their devotions, is entirely built 
 of stone ; the roof which is of the same material, 
 is of an elliptic form, supported by lofty and 
 handsome pillars, the principal entrance is near 
 the west end, and we were very much struck with 
 the neat and elegant appearance of the interior of 
 
337 
 
 this edifice. At the west of the chapel is a monu- 
 ment called the Cenotaph^^ of Princess Charlotte 
 of Walesj daughter of George the Fourth, it is 
 executed in marble, the Princess is represented as 
 sleeping, and her body covered with drapery, but 
 the outline is well preserved, and there are two 
 female figures, deeply bewailing her loss, and 
 absorbed in the deepest grief, the whole is very 
 well executed, and it was a very affecting sight to 
 behold. 
 
 The floor is paved with black and white marble, 
 and underneath it is the vault for laying the 
 bodies of members of the royal family ; we were 
 told that the bodies are enclosed in coffins and 
 stowed away in this vault. 
 
 There is no door or any other entrance to the 
 vault, and it is never opened except to deposit a 
 body, for which an aperture is formed by taking 
 up a few stones of the paved floor, which are re- 
 placed soon after. There are many distinguished 
 persons interred here, and marble tablets are 
 placed where they are buried to record the event, 
 as well as to preserve their memories. Close to the 
 altar which is at the east end of the chapel, 
 is the Queen^s pew, it is on a raised platform, 
 and very plain in appearance; below the pew 
 is a very beautiful and elaborate piece of steel- 
 work, wrought and most exquisitely finished by 
 the celebrated Quintin Matsys, who was a black- 
 smith, at Antwerp, and who afterwards dis- 
 
 Q 
 
338 
 
 tinguished himself in the art of painting. The 
 work consists of a pair of gates between two 
 towers^ and is a perfect specimen of its kind. 
 
 The joinery and the canopies over the pews, 
 which range on both sides of the chapel are of 
 very good workmanship_, and have a great deal of 
 carved work. We admired the whole of the inte- 
 rior of this chapel very much^ though the outward 
 appearance is not very pleasing, because it shows 
 signs of decay in some parts. This edifice with 
 all the decorations must have cost a great deal of 
 money, and we remarked to our friend whether he 
 considered it necessary that such grandeur and 
 magnificence was required in a divine place^ 
 where men had only to pray to their Creator for 
 the forgiveness of sins ; and we were informed by 
 him, that it was the great fondness of architectural 
 beauty in former times that led people to erect 
 costly edifices for worship, but that modern 
 churches are very plainly built, we approve this 
 plan very much, as we think that the money 
 spent on mere beauty may be applied to other 
 more useful and charitable purposes, and relieving 
 the necessities of the poor. 
 
 We were next conducted to the royal stable, 
 where we saw the Queen^s horses, there were a 
 great many of bay coloured, large, strong English 
 horses ; we were informed that there are seventy 
 of them, and are used for driving in the carriage ; 
 we also saw a number of ponies and riding horses. 
 
339 
 
 and two carriages, a phaeton and a landau, both of 
 them were without any decoration, they were quite 
 plain, and we should think not very Q^cpensive; 
 these two carriages are expressly for her Majesty^s 
 own use; she drives in them in the great park, 
 for which purpose they are very slightly con- 
 structed. We were told that all the other carriages 
 were in London in consequence of the Queen re- 
 siding there at the time ; we have had the honour 
 of seeing the Queen driving in these carriages, 
 they are very magnificent and costly, and such as 
 we may never perhaps see in our own country. 
 
 There is also a very peculiar carriage called the 
 state coach^ very beautifully carved and gilt, and 
 is said to have cost upwards of £7000.^ it was 
 built in 17^2, and is made use of on state occa- 
 sions, such as opening and closing of Parliament 
 and at the coronation. 
 
 A room of considerable dimensions called the 
 riding school, and large stables are now building 
 at Windsor for which a sum of £70,000. was 
 voted by the House of Commons last year. This 
 we think was very necessary, because the present 
 stables are by no means handsome or worthy of 
 accommodating royal carriages and horses, as there 
 are a number of small rooms^ the largest of which 
 could not contain twenty horses- 
 # The last thing we saw before leaving the castle 
 w^as the plate room, of which we can but give 
 a very imperfect description. There are two rooms. 
 
340 
 
 the smaller one is called the closet. In the large 
 room is kept a complete silver gilt service by 
 George the Fourth^ to dine one hundred and 
 thirty persons ; it comprises every necessary ar- 
 ticle in a dinner set ; there are thirty-two dozens 
 of plates^ which are said to cost twenty-six guineas 
 each^ and other articles in proportion. On a table 
 in the centre are placed various richly chased and 
 gilt ornaments, which appear very beautiful, and 
 we were informed that eighty large chests contain- 
 ing the plate were at Buckingham palace. 
 
 In the closet we saw in glass cases a great many 
 things, some taken from the Spanish Armada, 
 some from Burmah; one vessel belonged to Charles 
 the Twelfth of Sweden, and a small elephant in 
 silver belonging to the king of Ava. There are 
 two beautiful things taken at the capture of Se- 
 ringapatam from the palace of Tippoo Sahib, one 
 is a peacock set in many kinds of precious stones, 
 valued at £30,000., and the other Tippoo's foot- 
 stool; it is a tiger^s head made of pure gold, 
 having a solid ingot of gold for his tongue, and 
 crystal teeth ; it is very beautifully finished, and 
 is valued at £15,000. sterling. 
 
 Numerous ornamented shields are also here, one 
 of which was made from snufF boxes of King 
 George the Fourth, besides which there are a great 
 many curious things, and the whole is valued at 
 about £1,750,000!! placed under the superin- 
 tendence and care of a polite and gentlemanly 
 
341 
 
 person^ and who was very civil to us. The plate 
 rooms are in a damp situation^ which does not al- 
 low the things to remain bright^ as they soon tar- 
 nish and require frequent cleaning. We were very 
 much astonished at seeing this, and we were filled 
 with wonder at the magnificence of the castle and 
 every thing that it contains ; it is impossible to 
 set any value upon the whole, it must be a sum 
 that would appear incredible; we can only say 
 that none but the English nation could make and 
 support such an establishment, and we do not 
 doubt the assertion we have often heard that 
 Windsor Castle stands unrivalled in Europe. It 
 appears most extraordinary to imagine the large 
 sums that are spent upon public institutions and 
 establishments in England, and it is very justly 
 denominated the most powerful, the wealthiest 
 and the most wonderful country in the w^orld. 
 Our countrymen must know that besides Windsor 
 Castle, there is the Buckingham Palace in London, 
 and a palace at Brighton for the residence of the 
 sovereign, which though not so large, yet must be 
 equally well furnished. We were highly delighted 
 at seeing Windsor Castle, of which the English 
 may be very properly and justly proud. 
 
342 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII. 
 
 THE EAST INDIA HOUSE. 
 
 This celebrated and well known building is 
 situated very conspicuously in Leadenhall Street^ 
 a small building formerly occupied the site of the 
 present east wing^ and the inconvenience that was 
 then experienced in accommodating the various 
 branches of the Company^s business led them in 
 1799^ to the construction of the present stately 
 edifice from the designs of Mr, Jupp, a celebrated 
 architect. 
 
 The front is composed of stone^ with a noble 
 central portico and the two wings are 200 feet in 
 length ; the portico is very high, and consists of 
 six beautiful fluted pillars which support a hand- 
 some entablature and pediment^ the frieze is very 
 ornamentally sculptured, on the apex of the pedi- 
 ments stands a fine statue of Britannia^ and at 
 each corner figures of Asia and Europe the former 
 mounted on a mule and the latter on a horse. The 
 pediments contained emblematic sculptured figures 
 representing the commerce of the Company pro- 
 
343 
 
 tected by King George the Third, during whose 
 reign the building was erected ; the King has a 
 shield in his right hand as if to shelter the other 
 figures. The portico gives the front an air of 
 magnificence and splendour quite worthy and be- 
 coming the great and influential body to whom it 
 belongs, and the vast and important transactions 
 that are carried on within its walls. 
 
 Before we describe the interior of this magnifi- 
 cent buildings we will endeavour to convey to our 
 countrymen a short account of the origin of this 
 company^ the history of which is unparalleled and 
 unprecedented in the annals of nations, we could 
 but give a very imperfect sketch of this great 
 body, as it is a subject that requires extensive 
 knowledge on various points, and which task has 
 been ably performed by many English writers, to 
 which we refer our countrymen if they feel an 
 inclination to peruse them. 
 
 We would now proceed with the account that 
 we propose to give, and which we have gathered 
 from works treating on the subject. 
 
 We have before observed that the Cape of 
 Good Hope was first doubled by the Portuguese 
 mariner, Vasco de Gama, which route opened 
 the way for the Europeans who were always 
 forward in commercial enterprize. The Portuguese 
 and the Dutch two powerful maritime nations in 
 that age enjoyed the privilege of trading with 
 India from which they derived great advantage. 
 
344 
 
 The attention of the English people having 
 been excited by the success of their neighbours^ 
 in the year 1600, a body of merchants formed 
 themselves^ and obtained a charter for exclusively 
 trading to the east^ for a period of fifteen years. 
 The number of persons that composed this body 
 was two hundred and sixteen, they chose twenty- 
 four members and formed a committee to manage 
 general affairs of the corporation^ and every pro- 
 prietor had to keep his own account^ and were 
 only restricted to a few regulations for the guidance 
 of all. About ten years afterwards the company 
 obtained a charter for an unlimited period, and 
 after two years they were permitted to establish 
 factories at Goga, Surat, Ahmedabad and Cambay 
 this encouragement led them to unite the capital^ 
 and new funds were raised to extend and facilitate 
 commerce^ and they reaped so good a profit by 
 the exclusive right they thus enjoyed, that in 1616 
 a new subscription was openedj which produced 
 a sum of one million six hundred thousand pounds 
 sterling. In 1627 people feeling jealous at the 
 prosperity of this association and doubting the 
 propriety of their enjoying the privilege of trading 
 for an unlimited period which was granted to 
 them, brought forward many complaints, and 
 licence was given by the crown to parties to trade 
 with India. This measure tended much to injure 
 the association and they in vain struggled to cause 
 this license to be withdrawn. In addition to this 
 
345 
 
 a division in 1655 among the proprietors took 
 place and the dissatisfied party succeeded in obtain- 
 ing permissoin from OHver Cromwell the Protector 
 to send out ships to India, they however united with 
 the parent company in the course of two years. 
 
 In the year 1693, after much controversy, the 
 House of Commons passed a resolution to the 
 effect, " that it was the right of every Englishman 
 to trade to any part of the world, unless prohi- 
 bited by act of Parliament/^ This, of course, 
 threw open the way to those who were wealthy 
 and enterprising. A new association was now 
 formed, and through their interest with the Go- 
 vernment, they obtained a charter for incorpo- 
 rating themselves into a public body, and of course 
 became rivals to the existing company. These 
 two corporations, however, experienced so much 
 difficulty in carrying on their commerce^ and each 
 knowing how very detrimental it was to their 
 mutual interests, and how much they both suf- 
 fered from the ill effects of competition, that they 
 completely and finally joined together in the year 
 17O8, and assumed the title of ^' The united Com- 
 pany of Merchants trading to the East Indies.'^ 
 
 This union was recognised by Parliament, and 
 the company stood nearly on the same footing till 
 the subsequent acts, which deprived them of the 
 privilege of trade, and left to them the govern- 
 ment of India which they had gradually acquired. 
 During the time that we have thus briefly noticed 
 
 2 Q 
 
346 
 
 the transactions of this company^ they were com- 
 pelled, by the necessity of self-defence, to possess 
 themselves of several places in India to protect 
 their property, and were thus forced to become 
 masters of those places. The establishment of 
 Fort St. George, at Madras, and the grant of 
 Bombay in 1668; the footing gained at Calcutta 
 towards the end of that century tended much to 
 the permanent settlement of the British power in 
 India, and soon led to the acquisition of the inte- 
 rior of Hindoostan. The battle of Plassey finally 
 established the superiority of the English as a 
 warlike nation, the acquisition of the Mysore ter- 
 ritory, and the Maharatta countries, extended 
 their dominion, and Great Britain now holds 
 under her sway nearly the whole of the Peninsula 
 of Hindoostan. 
 
 The last charter was granted to the company in 
 1833, which completely deprived them of the 
 commercial privileges, leaving only the govern- 
 ment of the country in their hands, until the year 
 1854, when the charter must be renewed. 
 
 Our countrymen would now like to know how 
 the Court of Directors, of whom they have heard 
 so much in India, is composed, what they are, 
 and how they carry on the government of that 
 mighty country ; we therefore copy the following 
 account which we read in the first volume of Mr. 
 Montgomery Martinis History of the British Co- 
 lonies, and which we think far better and more 
 
347 
 
 comprehensive than what we with our limited 
 knowledge of the subject could give; and as that 
 gentleman has compiled the work from official 
 records, its authenticity cannot be doubted even 
 for a moment. He says : " The government of the 
 " British possessions on the continent of Asia is 
 vested in two powers with co-ordinate autho- 
 rity ; viz., the East India Company and a Mi- 
 nisterial Board, termed His Majesty^s Commis- 
 " sioners for the Affairs of India, the latter being 
 devised by Mr. Pitt, as a check upon the poli- 
 tical proceedings of the former. A few words 
 " will be necessary to explain this complex au- 
 thority. 
 
 " The Court of Directors. — The more im- 
 mediate governing power of British India, and 
 consequently, the patronage attached thereto, 
 is vested in the Court of Directors, or executive 
 " body of the East India Company. The capital 
 stock of this company is £6,000,000. sterling, 
 which is divided, according to a recent calcula- 
 tion, among three thousand five hundred and 
 seventy-nine proprietors, of whom fifty-three 
 have four votes, fifty-four, three ; three hun- 
 " dred and forty-seven, two ; one thousand four 
 hundred and fifty-four, one ; and two hundred 
 and twenty-one hold only £500. stock, and are 
 ^' not qualified to vote, but merely to debate on 
 " any question ; three hundred and ninety-six 
 " proprietors hold stock under £500., and are not 
 
348 
 
 qualified to vote or speak; and two hundred 
 
 " and twenty have not held their stock a sufficient 
 time to enable them to vote. The stock must 
 be bona fide in the proprietor's possession for 
 twelve months^ to enable him or her to vote ; a 
 
 " regulation adopted to prevent collusive transfers 
 of stock for particular Occasions. The total 
 
 " number of voters is estimated at two thousand, 
 and of the votes^ about one thousand five hun- 
 
 " dred are comprised within four miles of the 
 General Post Office. Women, as well as men, . 
 
 " foreigners, as well as Englishmen, if holding 
 stock sufficient, are empowered to yote or 
 debate. A late classification of votes gave, of 
 
 " gentry, bankers, merchants, traders, ship own- 
 ers, shopkeepers, &c., one thousand eight hun- 
 dred and thirty- six ; of women (married, widows, 
 and spinsters), forty- three; of officers, in the 
 King's and East India Company's army, two 
 
 " hundred and twenty-two ; of the clergy, eighty- 
 
 " six ; of officers in the royal navy, twenty-eight ; 
 of medical men, nineteen ; of the nobility, 
 twenty. 
 
 " The proprietors meet as a court regularly 
 every quarter, and specially, when convened, to 
 discuss particular business. The powers vested 
 in this court are, the election of qualified pro- 
 prietors as their delegates, or representatives, to 
 " form a Court of Directors, to frame bye-laws for 
 " the regulations of the company, provided they 
 
349 
 
 " do not interfere with Acts of Parliament^ to 
 control salaries, or pensions exceeding £200. a 
 year, or gratuities above ^600. It may confer 
 " pecuniary reward on any eastern statesman^ or 
 warrior, above the latter named sum, subject^, 
 " however, to the confirmation of the Board of 
 " control ; it can detnand copies of public docu- 
 ments to be laid before it for discussion and 
 consideration, but it is prevented interfering 
 with any order of the Court of Directors after 
 " the same shall have received the approval of 
 " the Board of Control. The court of proprietors 
 " did interfere, and with effect^ in the case of the 
 maritime compensations, on the ground that 
 their concurrence had not been obtained pre- 
 " viously to the application of the board. The 
 " Chairman of the Court of Directors is ex officio 
 Chairman of the Court of Proprietors — debates 
 " are regulated as in the House of Commons — 
 " and all questions and elections are decided by 
 " ballots. 
 
 " The Court of Directors^, or representatives of 
 the foregoing body of proprietors, consists of 
 twenty-four persons, qualified according to an 
 Act of Parliament, which provides, that each 
 must be a natural born, or naturalised subject, 
 of Great Britain ; possessed of £2000. stock (no 
 " matter for what previous period), he must not 
 " be a Director of the Bank of England or the 
 " South Sea Company; and by a bye-law of the 
 
350 
 
 company, he shall be liable to be removed if he 
 should promote his own, or the elevation of any 
 " other Director, by promises of reward, collusive 
 transfer of stock, or payment of travelUng ex- 
 penses, receive any pecuniary or other remune- 
 " ration whatever for any appointment in his gift 
 or patronage as a director. Six directors retire 
 annually by rotation, and are re-eligible after 
 twelve months^ absence ; the proprietors have 
 a review of every director in the course of four 
 " years, and can of course remove, if they think 
 " fit, such as they may deem not fit for the duty 
 ^' which they ought to fulfil. The Court of Di- 
 rectors elect from their own body a chairman 
 " and deputy chairman annually, meet once a 
 week, not less than thirteen form a court, and 
 all questions are decided by ballot. The court, 
 " in general, consists of men of various habits, 
 " views, and interests ; by a recent analysis, there 
 ^' were ten retired ci\nl and law officers of the 
 company ; four military ditto of ditto ; four 
 " maritime ditto of ditto ; three private Indian 
 " merchants ; and nine London merchants and 
 bankers ; of these, fifteen were under ten years 
 standing from the first election ; eleven from 
 ten to twenty ditto, two from twenty to thirty ; 
 ^* and two from thirty upwards. The Court of 
 " Directors enjoy full initiatory authority over all 
 " matters at home and abroad relating to the po- 
 " litical, financial, judicial, and military affairs of 
 
351 
 
 the company. But its proceedings are subject 
 " to certain Acts of Parliament ; to the superin- 
 " tendence of the Board of Control, and in several 
 
 matters to the approval of the Court of Pro- 
 " prietors. 
 
 " For the dispatch of business, the directors 
 are divided into three committees ; finance and 
 home, eight directors ; political and military, 
 seven ; revenue, judicial, and legislative, seven ; 
 
 " the duty of each is partly defined by the title ; 
 but there is a committee of secrecy, forming the 
 cabinet council of the company, consisting of 
 
 " the chairman, deputy ditto, and senior director ; 
 
 " its functions are defined by Parliament. 
 
 The business relating to the India government 
 transacted in England between the Board of 
 Control and the Court of Directors, is as fol- 
 
 " lows : — 
 
 All communications, of whatever nature, and 
 whether received from abroad, or from parties 
 in this country, come, in the first instance, to 
 
 " the secretary's office, at the East India House, 
 and are laid by the chairman before the first 
 court that meets after their receipt. Despatches, 
 when read or laid before the court, are consi- 
 
 " dered under reference to the respective com- 
 mittees and their officers, whose duty it is to 
 
 " prepare answers, and take the directions of the 
 
 " chairs upon points connected with them ; the 
 draft is prepared upon an examination of all 
 
352 
 
 documents to which the substance has reference^ 
 and submitted to the chairs ; it is then brought 
 before the committee^ to whose province the 
 subject more particularly relates, to be approved 
 or altered by them^ and^ on being passed^ is laid 
 before the Court of Directors. After it has 
 " passed the Court of Directors^ the draft goes to 
 the Board of Control, who are empowered to 
 make any alterations, but required to return it 
 within a limited time^ and with reasons assigned 
 for the alterations they have made. Previously, 
 " however, to the draft being laid before either 
 " committee by the chairs, experience has sug- 
 " gested the convenience of submitting it to the 
 " president of the board, in the shape of what is 
 called a previous communication. This is done 
 in communication between the president and the 
 chairs, in which stage, alterations, containing 
 the original views of the president, are made. 
 The draft being returned to the chairman, is 
 " laid by him, either with or without the altera- 
 tions, as he may see fit, before the committee, 
 is submitted to the court, and there altered or 
 approved, as the court may see fit. It is then 
 " officially sent to the board, who make such alte- 
 rations as they judge expedient, and return it to 
 the court, with their reasons at large for the 
 " same. Against these alterations the court may 
 " make a representation to the board, who have not 
 unfrequently modified the alterations on such 
 
353 
 
 representation ; but if the board decline to do 
 " so, they state the same to the court, and desire 
 
 the draft may be framed into a despatch, and 
 " sent out to India, agreeably to the terms of the 
 " A.ct of Parliament. In the event of a refusal^ 
 
 three Judges of the Court of King^s Bench 
 
 finally decide as to the legality of the board's 
 
 order. 
 
 The same authority speaking about the Board 
 of Control, observes that the East India Com- 
 pany's Home Government^ thus briefly de- 
 scribed, has been controlled by a ministerial 
 authority since 1784, which is termed the 
 " Board of Commissioners for the affairs of 
 India^ or more generally the Board of Control ; 
 " it consists of such members of the Privy Council 
 as His Majesty may be pleased to appoint, of 
 whom the two principal Secretaries of State, and 
 the Chancellor of the Exchequer shall always 
 ex officio form three. The President is also 
 nominated by the crown, is usually a cabinet 
 minister, and in all changes of administration^ 
 retires from the office together with the salaried 
 commissioners and secretary. The oath which 
 the commissioners take, imposes on them the 
 responsible duty of governing India to the best 
 " of their ability and judgment, as much and as 
 completely as if there were no executive court 
 " or administrative power. The controlling func- 
 " tions of the Board are exercised in revising all 
 
354 
 
 despatches prepared by the Court of Directors^ 
 and addressed to the government in India ; 
 
 " originating in requiring the court to prepare 
 despatches on any named subject, and in alter- 
 
 ^' ing or revising such despatches as it may deem 
 
 " fit/^ 
 
 The interior of the East India House is quite as 
 magnificent as the exterior ; the ground floor is 
 almost entirely appropriated to the use of the Di- 
 rectors^ who each have a room. There are also 
 a great many waiting-rooms for those who come on 
 business, or wish to see the Directors. On enter- 
 ing the front door we find ourselves in a hall, the 
 door on the right hand leads us to the proprietor's 
 room, and going through the left hand door we 
 perceive a staircase before us, ascending which, 
 we come to the Museum. 
 
 The passage which is at once seen opposite the 
 entrance, going through which and turning to the 
 right, we perceive a noble flight of steps, ascend- 
 ing which, we will find on the first floor the 
 Secretary's office, and the clerks, &c. of this de- 
 partment. The Marine branch is on the second 
 floor, and the Treasury office on the first. 
 
 Besides this there are other departments con- 
 nected with the multifarious business of the 
 honourable company, but so excellent is the in- 
 ternal arrangement, and so much accommodation 
 is there within this edifice, that there is no con- 
 fusion or people running about here and there, 
 
355 
 
 though containing many hundreds of persons 
 within its walls, every day from nine in the morn- 
 ing till six in the evening ; one would sometimes 
 think it is not at all inhabited, because there are 
 so many passages and windings that extend to 
 every part of the house, that a stranger sometimes 
 in going through does not see a single soul, 
 neither will he be able to find out his way without 
 enquiring of some one he may happen to meet. 
 In the Museum there are a great many curiosities, 
 principally from India, China, and Burmah, con- 
 sisting of paintings, ivory carved work, and other 
 articles, models, illustrations of vehicles, and con- 
 veyances made use of in India, and trophies taken 
 in the battles. 
 
 In one there is an extensive collection of stuffed 
 Indian Birds, and beasts, and very beautiful speci- 
 mens of butterflies and other insects. The library 
 is full of works printed in the English and oriental 
 languages, relating to India ; there are also many 
 Persian manuscripts and Chinese books ; we saw 
 this Museum two or three times, and w^ere very 
 much pleased and interested in viewing things 
 and productions of our own country. This 
 Museum is very liberally thrown open for the 
 public inspection every week, and no gratuity is 
 expected by the person in charge of it. This 
 example is worthy of imitation in many other 
 public places in London. In order to see the 
 Museum on the other days of the week^ a Direc- 
 tor's order is requisite. 
 
356 
 
 Before taking leave of the India House^ we must 
 endeavour to remove an erroneous impression 
 under which many of our fellow brethren in India 
 labour; we think we should be doing great in- 
 justice to our own feelings, and fail in duty to our 
 country, did we not touch upon this subject. It 
 is thought in India, that there is a disinclination on 
 the part of the government to give offices of trust 
 and emolument to the natives. We are quite pre- 
 pared to say, that this is a great mistake, and we 
 could by our own experience as well as what has 
 passed in England before our own eyes, prove 
 that no such feeling is in existence among the 
 Court of Directors, or, we may venture to say, 
 among the members of the several local govern- 
 ments in India; we have been in England a suffi- 
 cient time to form an opinion on this point ; we 
 studied under the patronage and protection of the 
 honourable company, and during the whole time 
 we have been in England, have received from the 
 Honourable Court of Directors, individually and 
 collectively, uniform encouragement, kindness and 
 facility, towards, accomplishing our object, and we 
 can assert that there is every disposition to 
 encourage native talent and genius — to give our 
 countrymen situations of honour and trust, and to 
 promote in every way the welfare of the natives — 
 to prove it, we would point out our cousin 
 Ardaseer Cursetjee, whom the honourable court 
 appointed chief engineer and inspector of the 
 steam foundry, at Bombay, in August last; we 
 
357 
 
 think every native ought to rejoice at this, it will 
 convince them that talent alone is recognized^ 
 without any regard to dress, colour, or rehgion. 
 
 W e therefore assure our friends in India, that if 
 they would only prove themselves capable and 
 qualified for conducting any post of honour and 
 confidence, their services will be cheerfully ac- 
 cepted by the government, and that they wdll meet 
 with the just reward their conduct may merit. 
 
358 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 
 STEAM MANUFACTORIES IN LONDON. 
 
 During our sojourn in England we had the 
 pleasure of becoming acquainted through our 
 cousin Ardaseer Cursetjee, to the eminent engi- 
 neers of London, Messrs. John and Samuel 
 Seawards who are the manufacturers of steam 
 engines particularly those for steam vessels. Our 
 cousin studied the steam engine scientifically in 
 their Foundery, and by the able instructions of 
 these gentlemen he made himself qualified in a 
 short time to carry on the duties of an engineer, and 
 is appointed chief inspector of the Honourable 
 East India Company^s steam factory at Bombay. 
 
 During our relative's sojourn we often visited 
 this establishment, it is situated on the north 
 bank of the Thames about three miles from 
 London Bridge and nearly opposite to Deptford. 
 It is an extensive establishment, not inferior to 
 any in London, and there are constantly employed 
 upwards of five hundred workmen and boys. The 
 machinery for turning, boring, planning, and 
 other various purposes are worked by a steam 
 
359 
 
 engine ; they are very numerous and of the first 
 rate description. The general arrangements of 
 the shops for the different departments of business 
 are very good^ particularly the iron foundery in 
 which large castings can be made with facility. 
 The shop for fitting and erecting the engines pre- 
 vious to their being fixed on board the vessels is 
 sufficiently extensive to receive eight or nine pairs 
 of the largest size at one time^ and a very fine 
 smithy containing between twenty and thirty large 
 smiths' forges. There is also a noble wharf attached 
 to the works with a great depth of water alongside, 
 in which steam frigates of 1100 tons burthen 
 have remained during the shipment of the engines 
 and machinery ; on the wharf is fixed a powerful 
 pair of sheers (a particular description of crane 
 with three moveable legs) 80 feet high, capable of 
 lifting the weight of 50 tons. 
 
 The boilers, which are made in large and heavy 
 pieces are manufactured at a separate establish- 
 ment belonging to the same firm, which is fitted 
 with extensive machinery for that purpose. 
 
 Messrs. Seaward and Co., have made several 
 improvements in marine engines, the principal of 
 which is, the arrangement by which the moving 
 power of the engine is placed immediately over 
 the cylinder, doing away wdth the usual cast iron 
 framing sway beams, side rods and cross leads 
 They are called the " Gorgon Engines" from 
 their being first applied to the " Gorgon^^ Frigate 
 
360 
 
 in Her Majesty's service fitted with steam power. 
 These engines are much hghter and take up less 
 room than the old plan. 
 
 The total or aggregate power they make is 
 about two thousand horses annually besides re- 
 pairing old engines. The consumption of coals 
 in twelve months is 3000 tons^ of iron 2500, of 
 copper 200, and of brass 100 tons. The Factory 
 was established about fifteen years ago, and 
 Messrs. Seaward have during the last ten years 
 made eighty pairs of marine engines, varying 
 from twenty to three hundred and twenty horse 
 power, and we are informed that the wages they 
 pay weekly, is about £800. and the expenses of 
 the establishment, rent and taxes about £9,000. 
 per annum so that the wages, rent and taxes all 
 amount nearly to £50^000. a year, 
 
 Messrs. Seaward and Co., have received great 
 patronage from the English Government, who 
 principally employ them in making engines for 
 the steam vessels of the navy ; the whole arrange- 
 ment of their establishment together with the 
 manner in which it is conducted, and the eminence 
 they have arrived at in the short period of fifteen 
 years reflects great credit upon these gentlemen. 
 
 We were favoured with a letter of introduction 
 to the celebrated engineers Messrs. Maudsley and 
 Field, and they very politely conducted us round 
 their magnificent manufactory of steam engines, 
 which is situated a little beyond Westminster 
 
361 
 
 Bridge on the Surrey side of the Thames^ it is a 
 very large, and we are told the largest establish- 
 ment of the kind in London, 
 
 But after speaking of the factory of Messrs. 
 Seaward and Co. we will not trouble our readers 
 with any details of it, suffice it to say that its 
 arrangements are nearly the same and the various 
 operations are carried on by the aid of very good 
 steam engines, and they manufacture a great num* 
 ber of land as well as marine engines. 
 
 R 
 
362 
 
 CHAPTER XXIX. 
 
 THE ROYAL INSTITUTION. 
 
 On the 26th of March, 184 1, our kind friend Mr. 
 George Forbes procured tickets for us to attend a 
 lecture at the Royal Institution^ Albemarle Street^ 
 Piccadilly, that was to be delivered there by a 
 Mr. Goddard on a very interesting subject, viz. 
 the application of Daguerreotype to obtain like- 
 nesses of living men. 
 
 This institution is very respectable indeed, as 
 none but noblemen and gentlemen are allowed to 
 be members of it, who are elected by ballot the 
 first Monday of every month. The members pay 
 six guineas as an admission fee, and an annual 
 payment of five guineas, or sixty guineas in lieu 
 of all payment. The members have the privilege 
 of attending public lectures, the Museum and even- 
 ing meetings. 
 
 At eight o^ clock the lecturer entered the theatre 
 of the institution, which is a room fitted with seats 
 one above the other, and a gallery above. The seats 
 were all crowded, and a great many ladies as well 
 
363 
 
 as gentlemen were in the gallery. He first briefly- 
 described Monsieur Daguerre^s apparatus^ and 
 then proceeded with the subject of the lecture. 
 
 The method of fixing likenesses on the plate is 
 nearly the same as the Daguerreotype^ only that 
 the process is much simplified and the apparatus 
 improved and of a different form than that of M. 
 Daguerre^s. The plates require only once polish- 
 ing with nitric acid and tripoli powder, and they 
 are made so sensitive as to receive an impression 
 in a few seconds on a fine summer^s day, and even 
 on a cloudy day by keeping it a longer time in pro- 
 portion to the diminished quantity of light. We 
 saw him prepare the plate and take the likeness of a 
 bustthat was placed thereforthe purpose, a powerful 
 oxy-hydrogen light was thrown on its face to em- 
 body the shadows on the plate, and within three 
 minutes the image was fixed, the fidelity of which, 
 as well as the effect of light and shade, can never 
 be doubted, from the circumstance of its having 
 been taken without the aid of an artist, neither will 
 it flatter or give a smiling countenance to one who 
 really does not possess it. * 
 
 The appearance of the picture is very dull, but 
 this discovery will be one of the greatest value 
 to artists, as they can copy it and bring out 
 the nicest effects of light and shade in colour; it 
 will also enable them to take a likeness of a per- 
 son, who has the photogenic portrait of himself, in 
 half the number of sittings. 
 
364 
 
 This discovery is at present only confined to ob- 
 tain miniature portraits, as the plates are only 2 
 inches and a half by 2 inches, but there is not the 
 slightest doubt that its application will be extend- 
 ed to larger size. 
 
 We were very much pleased in seeing this in- 
 stitution before our departure from England. The 
 library is a large room^ and contains a great num- 
 ber of valuable books, which must have cost a 
 large sum of money. 
 
365 
 
 CHAPTER XXX. 
 
 NEWSPAPERS AND PERIODICALS, 
 
 We could not reside so long in England without 
 learning the great importance that is attached by 
 English people to their newspapers. We believe 
 to very many^it is the greatest pleasure they have 
 in life to get the newspaper at their breakfast 
 in the morning, and it is laughable to see how irn- 
 mediately readers of a certain class^ adopt the 
 opinions of the daily paper they take. 
 
 The Times says there must be war with 
 America, and Fm sure its true/' says one. 
 
 Why the Chronicle says, that it is not the 
 report of congress, but only of a private com- 
 mittee, and we shall have no war depend upon it,^^ 
 replies his friend. Look what the Times pays 
 for its foreign expresses,'^ says one. — I don't 
 believe one word that the Times says,^' replies 
 his friend ; and thus it is, that many confirmed 
 political men act, and put full faith and confidence 
 in their respective papers, and to enter a news-room 
 where a number of newspapers of different sides 
 
SGG 
 
 of politics_, are lying on the table^ is to us (who of 
 course have no pohtics at all) most amusing ; and 
 to read the account of the same meeting described 
 in papers of opposite pohtics ; they are so com- 
 pletely at variance with each other ; the speakers 
 on their side of the question^ were listened to with 
 profound attention ; their party had by far the 
 largest number present. When the other paper 
 states, the speakers on the opposite side were in- 
 audible^ and the assemblage very thin^ and so on, — 
 so much for where party leads them. 
 
 But as journals of historical facts, as furnishing 
 daily information of whatever is going on in the 
 world, nothing is to be compared with an English 
 newspaper. And the enormous expense of con- 
 ducting a leading daily paper, is such a sum that 
 would scarcely be credited. In the first instance, 
 to commence a morning paper of importance^ to 
 compete with the Times, a capital of upwards of 
 £50,000. is required to be invested ; and as it 
 is always a hazardous affair, it is generally 
 managed by a few associated proprietors, and when- 
 ever any very strong new political question is 
 before the public, all the proprietors are called to- 
 gether, and it is by them decided which side of 
 the question their paper is to take, or to use their 
 own form of words, whether they are to write it 
 up or to write it down. This may account for the 
 change which some of the daily papers have made 
 in their pohtics, and after a little while changed 
 
367 
 
 back again. This line of conduct only proves how 
 improper it is for any one to allow the leading 
 article of any newspaper to actuate them in their 
 movements upon any matter, and we cannot 
 imagine what sort of people they can be who write 
 upon both sides of a question, as it is evident that 
 only one must be approved and dictated by their 
 conscience ; the other therefore must be directly 
 against their will and intentions. It is a matter ot 
 regret, that the public mind should be excited 
 daily with strong and inflammatory language, and 
 with subtile reasoning, and we cannot help remark- 
 ing, that men who have been blessed by Providence 
 with such superior abilities as the editors of the 
 newspapers are, should pursue such a course. 
 To them many paths to fame are open, and were 
 they only to write what they really do think to be 
 right, their observations would be extremely use- 
 ful, and instructive to the public, but by such 
 narrow minded proceedings, they forfeit public 
 confidence, and make use of the best of their 
 language and ability, in reviling and finding fault 
 with their fellow brethren. 
 
 We saw an article in Chambers' Edinburgh 
 Journal, of the Year 1835, (No. 153), in which 
 was the current expenses of a daily morning news- 
 paper, and as they pledge themselves to its being 
 true, we borrow their calculation. They state 
 there is an editor, a sub-editor, and upon some 
 papers a city editor. From ten to fourteen regular 
 
368 
 
 reporters with salaries ; thirty to thirty-five com- 
 positors (who set up the type for printing) ; two 
 readers^ two reading boys, who read the copy 
 aloud whilst the others correct the proofs ; a 
 master printer, or foreman, machine men and 
 boys, a publisher, and sometimes a sub-publisher, 
 office clerks, to receive advertisements and keep 
 accounts, a porter, errand boys, casual servants, 
 &c. But the actual nature of the expenditure 
 will be best seen by the following statement 
 drawn up by a gentleman formerly connected with 
 the London newspaper press, and whose report 
 may therefore be reckoned pretty accurate. He 
 gives the following as a fair estimate : — 
 
 
 Per Week. 
 
 Per Year. 
 
 
 Principal Editor 
 
 £21 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 £1092 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 Second Editor 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 546 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 City Editor - 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 546 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 Twelve Reporters, each 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 3276 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 Two Readers, both 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 273 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 Two Reading Boys 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 159 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 Publisher - 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 218 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 Clerk .... 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 109 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 Printer - 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 218 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 Porters and Errand Boys 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 218 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 Treasurer and Manager 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 546 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 Compositors, Machine Men, in- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 cluding all the Requisites for 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Printing, about 
 
 80 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 4160 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 Circuits 18, each perannunri, 
 
 20 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 360 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 Expresses of all kinds, including 
 (French £436 10s.) Postages, 
 
 Carriages, &c. - - 546 0 0 
 
369 
 
 Per Year. 
 
 Occasional Reports of Police Offices, 
 Inferior Courts, Inquests, Meet- 
 ings, &c. - - - 546 0 0 
 
 Literary Assistance, not included 
 in above. Foreign Correspon- 
 dence, and occasional payment 
 
 for private information - 1092 0 0 
 
 Office Rent, Taxes, Light, Wear 
 and Tear, and Interest on fixed 
 
 Capital . - - 1092 0 0 
 
 Total £14999 0 0 
 
 There is reason to believe that this is con- 
 sidered much under the actual outlay of the 
 Times Newspaper: provided a paper depended 
 upon the sale of its newspapers only^ it would 
 lose a very considerable sum of money every year. 
 But when a paper has the credit of having a large 
 circulation, a great number of persons advertise 
 therein ; and it is these advertisements that repay 
 for the capital and the annual outlay upon these 
 papers, as large sums are paid for inserting these 
 advertisements. 
 
 The expense of carrying on an evening paper 
 is not half so much as that af a morning paper, 
 as there is no necessity of employing parliamentary 
 reporters, they taking the reports from the morn- 
 ing papers ; and, generally speaking, the evening 
 newspaper is not half the size of the morning 
 ones : consequently they do not expend nearly so 
 
370 
 
 much for printing, and for the other contingent 
 expenses. 
 
 There are other papers which are pubhshed 
 three times a week only, and they are pubhshed 
 by the proprietors of a daily paper ; and the same 
 paragraphs that are set up in type for the daily 
 papers answer without any expense for the paper 
 published three times a week^ and they only re- 
 quire the care of an individual to select and 
 arrange them^ and write a short leading article for 
 it. Some of the weekly papers are got up in the 
 same manner as these three times a week papers. 
 But^ on the contrary, some of the weekly news- 
 papers are admirably got up^ and their remarks 
 upon passing events are most beautifully written. 
 The public press in England follows the public 
 opinion, or, in other words, it does not govern 
 the minds of the pviblic as it formerly did ; yet 
 there is an action and reaction between the both. 
 As most of the London weekly newspapers are 
 Sunday papers, although they are actually printed 
 on the Saturday, they do not reach the great mass 
 of their readers until Sunday, they consequently 
 occupy a great portion of the time that was for- 
 merly occupied in rehgious pursuits. Of the 
 daily morning papers the Times has the greatest 
 circulation. It was for years a Tory paper; it is 
 said to have advocated whig principles in Lord 
 Grey^s administration, and at the breaking up of 
 which it became a conservative paper, which it 
 
371 
 
 still remains. The Chronicle has always been 
 a whig newspaper^ and upon the Times leaving 
 whig principles in 1831^ its circulation increased 
 rapidly : it is now said to be the largest in circula- 
 tion next to the Times. The Morning Herald is 
 of Conservative principles, and has a large circu- 
 lation; it does not go to the expense that the 
 Times and Chronicle do for foreign information. 
 It however has much general local news, and its 
 reports of the police offices and of criminal and 
 other trials are very good. The Morning Post 
 is a Tory paper, and its chief intelligence is about 
 fashionable parties, and little bits of news relative 
 to the nobility and gentry. The Morning Adver- 
 tiser is a paper that has great circulation in public 
 houses. It belongs to the society called Licensed 
 Victuallers, or in other words Publicans," and 
 the profits of it go to a fund they have for decayed 
 publicans. It is of liberal principles, and has a 
 good circulation : it is not a very good paper for 
 general information. The Sun which is a Radical 
 paper has the largest circulation of any of the 
 evening newspapers ; and the proprietor is said to 
 pay a large sum for his expresses ; and he adopts 
 the plan of sending a second express edition at a 
 rapid rate, whenever news of importance arrives 
 after he has published his paper, and after the post 
 has left London. He has also recently started a 
 morning edition of the Sun paper. The Standard 
 is a Tory evening newspaper; it is edited in a 
 
372 
 
 very superior manner, and has an immense circu- 
 lation. It is also said to pay largely for foreign 
 expresses and information. The Globe evening 
 paper is the ministerial paper at present^ and has 
 always the earliest and most correct information 
 as to what ministers intend to do, and what official 
 appointments are to take place; generally its 
 leading article is an outline of what ministers in- 
 tend to do upon any question to come before 
 either Lords or Commons that evening. It has a 
 good circulation. The Courier was for many 
 years a Tory, became a liberal paper supporting 
 the administration, but has turned again, and is 
 now a conservative. 
 
 The three times a week papers — are, the St. 
 James's Chronicle, which is published from the 
 reserved paragraphs of the Standard, and, of 
 course, is Conservative ; the Evening Mail, which 
 is done in the same way from the Times, and, of 
 course, Tory ; and the Evening Chronicle, which 
 is made up from the Morning Chronicle, is a 
 Whig paper. The paper which has the largest 
 circulation among the weekly newspapers, is the 
 Weekly Dispatch, belonging to a Mr. James 
 Harmer, who was an alderman of London, and 
 who would in this year (1841) have been Lord 
 Mayor of London, but he employs, as a constant 
 writer to his paper, an individual who signs him- 
 self Publicola, who, in his weekly addresses, made 
 use of language so exciting, and calling upon the 
 
373 
 
 lower classes to upset all the established institu- 
 tions^ and, in fact^ using arguments of such a 
 nature, that^ if carried out, monarchy would cease^ 
 and universal discord be dominant 3 that when 
 Alderman Harmer was put in nomination for 
 Lord Mayor of London, he was opposed openly 
 and avowedly for being proprietor of a paper in 
 which articles so inflammatory were inserted. He 
 was not allowed to be Lord Mayor, and he then 
 threw up his alderman's gown, and became a pri- 
 vate individual, still continuing to be the propri- 
 etor of his profitable Weekly Dispatch, and still 
 allowing Publicola to write his weekly letter^ but 
 in a modified tone. We hardly know what poli- 
 tics to call the Weekly Dispatch. It is neither 
 Tory nor Conservative^ but does more injury to 
 the cause it professes to support (that is Libe- 
 rahsm) than any paper published. It alarms the 
 timid, serves its opponents to point at^ and does 
 more to retard the progress of Reform than any 
 print in England. 
 
 The Examiner and Spectator are both liberal 
 weekly papers admirably written ; but the former 
 goes quite to the extreme of Radicalism, 
 
 BelFs Weekly Messenger is a quiet^ useful 
 paper, of large circulation^ moderate Conservative 
 politics, and w^ell written. 
 
 The Age and the Satirist are papers (the first a 
 Tory, the second a Liberal) that indulge so much 
 in obscene paragraphs and personalities, that no 
 
374 
 
 respectable families or decent people take in such 
 prints. There is much wit in both of them, but 
 of that nature as to raise a blush, and we think 
 them disgraceful to the period they are pub- 
 lished in. 
 
 The Observer is a paper of general information,' 
 large circulation, and admirably got up ; it is of 
 Whig principles. It is the only weekly new^s- 
 paper that brings its intelligence up to Saturday 
 at midnight. 
 
 BelFs Life in London, and the Sunday Times, 
 are sporting papers, giving an account of horse- 
 races, dog-fights, men-fights, and all that sort of 
 thing; they are to be met with in the hands of 
 horse betting people, and sporting public houses. 
 
 The Atlas is a very large Sunday paper, and is 
 very excellent for the great variety of news it con- 
 tains. There are very many more that we know 
 but little about, and in addition to these, there is 
 scarcely a large town in the kingdom but what 
 publishes one or more weekly papers, all of which, 
 of course, are supported by the political parties 
 whose side is taken up by them. 
 
 There is one great advantage, that people can 
 do as we have done ; go to places where, for a few 
 pence, they can read all sides of the question, and 
 thus judge for themselves. The only mischief is, 
 that where dangerous language is used to the 
 humbler class, they are too apt to think that every 
 grievance that is spoken of is real ; and we all of 
 
375 
 
 us know^ that it is much easier to excite people^ 
 and to make them discontented and unhappy^ 
 than it is afterwards to keep them quiet and to 
 assure them that they have been deceived^ and are 
 not in so bad a situation as newspapers would 
 make them beUeve. In a free happy country hke 
 England^ newspapers do much to keep alive the 
 spirit of liberty. No man^ let his station in so- 
 ciety be what it may, can do much harm in his 
 neighbourhood before it gets into the public 
 prints ; and if he is oppressing his poorer neigh- 
 bours, or setting public decency at defiance;, he is 
 sure to be roughly handled in the newspapers ; 
 that if he does not for decency's sake quit his acts 
 of outrage, it induces persons to come forward to 
 investigate the case, and, by public subscription, 
 to uphold the sufferer, and to shut out the offender 
 beyond the pale of respectable society. 
 
 There is no good without a corresponding evil ; 
 low-minded men anonymously attack the character 
 and feelings of those whom they have not the cou- 
 rage openly to attack, by putting offensive para- 
 graphs in the papers. But it would be a matter 
 of regret that the acts of a few base men should 
 ever shackle the liberty of the press, whioJi has 
 done, and is doing so much to enlighten and 
 secure the freedom of mankind. 
 
 In addition to the host of newspapers annually 
 printed in England, Ireland, Scotland, and Wales, 
 there are multitudes of what are called periodicals, 
 
376 
 
 that is, literary works that appear annually, quar- 
 terly, monthly, or weekly, and to commence with 
 the most ancient of the annuals ; the annual Re- 
 gister has been in existence for more than half a 
 century, and contains historical records of the 
 prominent events of the past year, as relates to 
 its political movements, criminal trials, and do- 
 mestic events, and a slight review, and extract 
 from books published in the year ; its price is 
 sixteen shillings. Within the last twenty years 
 many beautiful annuals, illustrated with first-rate 
 engravings, have made their appearance, and the 
 tales and poetry, in most of them, are contributed 
 by the first writers of the day ; they are elegantly 
 bound^ either in silk, morocco, or russia leather, 
 and are sold, when first published, at from £l. 1^. 
 to 10^. 6d. each, according to the style in which 
 they are got up. Among the earliest and the best, 
 we would mention the " Forget me Not and the 
 " Keepsake,^^ and they have been foUow^ed by 
 many others of superlative beauty ; the Land- 
 scape AnnuaV^ the ^^Book of Beauty,^' the Drawl- 
 ing Room Scrap Book,^^ and, indeed, by such a 
 numerous class of this description, that we cannot 
 say more of them, than that the pictures in many 
 of them are perfect gems, and the production of 
 these books must have done much to improve and 
 bring to perfection the art of engraving in- Eng- 
 land. About the year 1802, Mr. Brougham, 
 Erskine, Birkbeck, and JefFery, then young men, 
 
377 
 
 commenced a review, publishing it about once in 
 three months, called the Edinburgh Review 
 and though it only professed to review books, yet, in 
 fact, it became the medium through which some of 
 the most admirable essays in the English language 
 have been written and placed before the public, 
 but as it took a strong political side of the ques- 
 tion, all the articles l)eing strongly tinctured with 
 liberalism, the tory party in 1 809 started in oppo- 
 sition the Quarterly Review ; Mr. William Gifford 
 was its first editor, and we believe it is now edited 
 by Mr. Lockhart, the son-in-law of the late Sir 
 Walter Scott, whose salary we are told is £1,500. 
 per annum. Many first-rate men, including Can- 
 ning, Lord Dudley and Ward, Lord Francis 
 Egerton, &c. have written for this work, and the 
 articles in the Q-uarterly are quite as masterly 
 written as those in the Edinburgh. £100. and 
 upwards are not unfrequently paid for each of the 
 articles in the Quarterly, the circulation of which 
 is said to be about ten thousand. They both of 
 them continue most strongly to advocate their 
 political opinions, and when any strong political 
 question is agitating the public mind, under the 
 pretence of reviewing some little pamphlet upon 
 the question, they say all that can be said for or 
 against the measure. And in addition to this, 
 every new book that is worth notice is reviewed 
 by them so fully, that many persons who have 
 not much leisure, instead of reading the books 
 
378 
 
 read the reviews^ and they obtain general informa- 
 tion without much trouble. There is another 
 review also pubhshed every three months called 
 the Westminster RevicM^^ which adopts the same 
 course as the two others^ but the writers are radi- 
 cals and all its articles are for great and immediate 
 changes in the mode of government. These three 
 sell at 6s. each. There are also quarterly pubU- 
 cations of a scientific nature, such as Quarterly 
 Journal of Science, and Quarterly Agricultural 
 Journal, 6s. Of monthly publications there are 
 several, most of which have some well written 
 original articles on improving subjects, with pleasing 
 tales, a little poetry, and all of them nearly profess 
 to review books published within the past month. 
 The two highest priced magazines are the New 
 Monthly Magazine, 3^. 6d. per month^ and the 
 Metropolitan^ 3^. 6d.^ both of which are conducted 
 at great expense^ and have capital original tales. 
 Blackwood's Edinburgh Magazine, 2s. 6d. per 
 month, and Eraser's Magazine have always some 
 clever articles, but of too grave a class for the 
 generality of magazine readers. Bentley's Mis- 
 cellany^ 2^. 6d, per month, has always some laugh- 
 able stories in prose and poetry. Tait's Magazine, 
 \s. per month, is well written, but most of the 
 articles dry for magazine readers. Naval and Mi- 
 litary Journal, 2s. 6d. per month, is confined to 
 the two services, with occasional interesting tales. 
 The Polytechnic Journal is connected with im- 
 
379 
 
 provements in machinery. Gentleman^s Magazine, 
 2s. 6d, per month, confines itself pretty much 
 to describing antiquities, as buildings, coins, old 
 writings, &c. There are three or four monthly 
 publications connected with flowers; Harrison^s 
 Floricultural Cabinet, only 6d. per month^ gives 
 tolerable good pictures of new flowers, with full 
 directions for cultivating them ; and the Florist^s 
 Journal, also 6d, per month, does the same thing. 
 There are other periodicals devoted to particular 
 purposes : the Asiatic Journal, devoted to India ; 
 it is a very interesting work. The East India 
 Magazine is also devoted to India; and the Colo- 
 nial Magazine to India and to all the British co- 
 lonies : this periodical is most ably conducted, 
 and is admirably calculated to develope the re- 
 sources of the colonies, and contains genuine in- 
 formation upon all subjects- It is impossible for 
 us to particularize half the good works of these 
 descriptions published; we can only speak of 
 those we have met with, and of course of them our 
 descriptions must be very imperfect; but as we 
 would wish our countrymen to know all we can 
 communicate about England, we have described 
 to the best of our humble means these very useful 
 publications. 
 
 When we come to weekly publications, we know 
 not where to begin^ so many in number, and most 
 of them so useful and at such low prices that 
 every body can afford to purchase some of them. 
 
380 
 
 We believe the oldest weekly periodical is the 
 Mirror^ it is 2d, per week^ and has one or two pic- 
 tures^ and several pages of very closely printed 
 amusing little pieces of poetry and prose. There 
 is then the Literary Gazette^ ^d,^ and the Athe- 
 naeum^ A:d,^ both reviews of new works^ and are 
 well conducted. We next come to the Penny 
 Magazine; this was first published on the 31st 
 March 1832 and for one penny eight pages of 
 really useful practical matter and free from politics 
 is printed and distributed ; Lord Brougham^ Lord 
 John Russell and a numerous committee of 
 gentlemen first set this magazine in circulation 
 and it has now a very large sale, many thousands 
 of them on the Saturday finding their way to 
 the remotest part of the united kingdom ; every 
 number has two or more first rate wood engrav- 
 ings. It could not by any means be sold so cheap 
 did not the great number required enable the com- 
 mittee to transfer the wood cuts as well as the 
 type to stereotype plates, and the magazines are 
 in reality not printed from the wood cuts and 
 type but from these plates. There is also a penny 
 Cyclopedia of which a number is delivered every 
 Saturday, for one penny and a capital book of 
 reference it is. There is also by the same com- 
 mittee published the Library of useful knowledge 
 in sixpenny numbers, the first number of which 
 ^' The objects, advantages, and pleasures of science^' 
 was written by Lord Brougham, and if he had 
 
381 
 
 never written any other work, nor made a single 
 speech, nor contributed in any way to the di/Fu- 
 sion of knowledge, this one pamphlet would have 
 handed his name down to posterity as one of the 
 cleverest men of his age ; soon after the penny 
 magazine was started Messrs. William and Robert 
 Chambers started a weekly periodical for three 
 half pence per week, with eight pages of three 
 columns each printed very small called Chambers' 
 Edinburgh Journal, and filled with useful informa- 
 tion and most amusive matter ; we consider it the 
 most talented, and the best, periodical in the king- 
 dom. Its advice to all classes is such as, if followed, 
 would make men wise and happy. It endeavours 
 to make the working classes fond of reading, and 
 all its tales and observations point out the happi- 
 ness which results from virtuous actions. Messrs. 
 Chambers also publish weekly, price three half- 
 pence. Chambers' Information for the People, 
 which treats upon every known science, and gives 
 a valuable treatise, complete in itself, upon each 
 branch of science, for only three halfpence. This 
 is an invaluable work. 
 
 The Saturday Magazine, price only one penny, 
 conducted by a committee, is of the same size, 
 and has about the same number of engravings as 
 the Penny Magazine, and has a very extensive 
 sale; it is admirably conducted, and has much 
 useful information in it. We forgot to mention, 
 when speaking of the monthly publications, that 
 
382 
 
 three or four of the different sects of religion have 
 their sixpenny monthly magazine ; for instance, 
 the Evangelical^ the Methodist, and the Baptist. 
 
 We have seen several numbers of a very good 
 weekly publication two pence per week called 
 London Saturday Journal. There were two of 
 them, the other was called Grant's London Journal 
 but at the commencement of 1 84 1, they agreed 
 to unite into one, and it is now called London 
 Saturday Journal; this is a work with a good 
 deal of information and many original articles upon 
 existing customs, &c. There is also a very clever 
 work, the English Journal, three half-pence per 
 week with sixteen pages of closely printed inform- 
 ation and which we think very good. In addition 
 to these there are several at one penny per week, 
 such as the Odd Fellow, Penny Satirist and others 
 which no doubt sell tolerably well, as we see them 
 weekly at the pamphlet shops. With this host 
 of varied information it w^ould indeed be singular 
 if w^e did not find among the humble classes in 
 England many practical well informed men. We 
 do conceive it to be a great comfort to be able 
 to procure so much and so really valuable inform- 
 ation in a cheap form ; oh ! happy England where 
 the poorest of men have placed within their reach 
 so pleasing a recreation as this afforded by cheap 
 periodicals. Where evey human being may learn 
 the history and use of every thing that meets his 
 eye or his ear, and who by his own fireside in wet 
 
383 
 
 or cold weather can amuse himself by perusing 
 good and useful books. 
 
 We have now given a correct account of the 
 newspapers and periodicals of London which of 
 all the literary publications are the most useful. 
 They are free from all sorts of politics and the 
 information contained in them is calculated to 
 diffuse knowledge^ and in consequence of their 
 cheapness^ they are admirably adapted for the 
 humbler class^ thus providing poor as well as rich 
 with works of arts and sciences, and the good 
 these publications have done to society manifests 
 itself from the rapid increase that has taken place 
 within the last ten years in their number and 
 great circulation. 
 
 We have since writing the above received two 
 numbers of a periodical called ' Vidya Sagur' (river 
 of knowledge) conducted in Goozrattee language 
 at Bombay^ by Nowrojee Furdoonjee, formerly a 
 student of the Native Education Society and now 
 Assistant Professor to the College of Elphinstone 
 Native Education Institution. It treats upon 
 the Elementary Principles of Popular Arts and 
 Sciences^ History, and other miscellaneous sub- 
 jects, we have much rejoiced to see it, and we 
 strongly and earnestly recommend our country- 
 men to give all possible support to the work. It 
 is the first, the very first of its kind that has ever 
 appeared in the Goozrattee language, and the 
 laudable purpose the talented editor has in view. 
 
384 
 
 that of improving his countrymen, is well deserv- 
 ing of encouragement from the inhabitants of 
 Bombay ; he has indeed paved the way, for this 
 advancement and we hope that he will meet w^ith 
 due support. 
 
 We are finally of opinion that by giving due en- 
 couragement to such literary productions our 
 countrymen in a few years will perceive the 
 benefit that would result from it, and that the 
 progress they will have made in literature in a 
 short period will exceed their most sanguine 
 expectations. 
 
 In conclusion we sincerely congratulate the 
 editor in having been the first to have projected 
 and carried into effect this praiseworthy object^ it 
 reflects the highest credit on him and we trust 
 that he will long live to have the satisfaction of 
 seeing the beneficial result of his exertions, and 
 of observing others imitate his example. 
 
385 
 
 CHAPTER XXXL 
 
 TOUR TO THE NAVAL ARSENALS AND PRINCIPAL 
 SEAPORTS* 
 
 It was suggested, by many of our friends that 
 we should^ before quitting England, visit some of 
 the manufacturing towns, and the Royal Naval 
 Arsenals, which have, for years, been the pride of 
 the English people ; the noble specimens of human 
 ingenuity and of naval architecture that are here 
 produced are, and have been, the chief means of 
 establishing the maritime supremacy of the British 
 over every other nation on the surface of the 
 globe. 
 
 We were therefore desirous to see these great 
 national establishments, and stupendous works 
 of mechanical skill, and the commercial towns, 
 the names and celebrity of which we had 
 heard and read a. great deal about ; in order that 
 we might gain some more professional knowledge, 
 and also to convey to our countrymen a faint idea 
 of a country whose children have governed them 
 more than a century past j whose arms have been 
 attended with success unparalleled and unprece- 
 
 s 
 
386 
 
 dented in the annals of nations ; whose perse- 
 verance and industry have raised them from a 
 state of rudeness and barbarism, to the highest 
 pitch of civiUzation ; whose superiority in mihtary 
 skill, naval tactics, and mechanical and general 
 knowledge has filled the neighbouring powers 
 with admiration and envy ; and lastly, whose in- 
 exhaustible resources of those two most valuable 
 articles, iron and coals, have been the means of 
 undertaking and accomplishing the boldest pro- 
 jects that ever entered the human breast. 
 
 It was with these intentions that we were 
 determined to take a tour to these places, in the 
 month of April 1840, which is generally the best 
 time of the year, the days being fourteen hours 
 long, and the weather very mild ; and while we 
 were thinking to do so, orders were forwarded to 
 Chatham to launch the frigate Maeander of 46 
 guns ; this being the first launch since our entering 
 the yard, it was of importance for us to witness 
 the preparations of fitting the launching apparatus, 
 and to note down every detail and minutiae of it ; 
 we therefore gave up the idea till after the launch 
 which took place on the 5th of May, and the 
 account of which will be found in another part of 
 this work. 
 
 After the launch, we found that the steamer 
 Ardent, which was begun a few weeks since, was 
 complete in frame, and was progressing very 
 rapidly in order to be completed in July next; 
 
387 
 
 we also knew that the keel of the steamer^ Poly- 
 phemus was to be laid on the slip from which the 
 frigate was just launched, and at the same time, it 
 was said, the London of ninety-two guns would be 
 launched in August ; and as to be acquainted with 
 the construction and repairs of steam vessels was 
 our primary object^ we did not deem it prudent to 
 lose such precious opportunities of watching the 
 building of two steamers from first to last, and 
 the launching preparations of a second rate line of 
 battle ship ; we consequently deferred our tour till 
 September. The London and the Polyphemus^ 
 however, were launched on the 29th of September^ 
 and the Ardent was slowly advancing towards 
 completion. In the meantime we employed our- 
 selves in preparing some designs of steam vessels, 
 and witnessing the works of the two building in 
 the yard. 
 
 We had previously obtained permission from 
 the Honourable Court, and were now preparing 
 for our journey, when^ to our great dismay, one 
 of the domestics became very ill ; and we had the 
 mortification, on the day of the launch^ to see the 
 other and our friend share the same misfortune ; 
 they all \^'ere attacked with severe bowel complaints, 
 which were then prevalent in the neighbourhood. 
 
 The following was our new year's day, which 
 we were in the hope of enjoying, as well as we 
 could, in a strange country ; but this unforeseen 
 circumstance marred all our pleasures, and, in- 
 
388 
 
 stead of festivity and mirth^ which we always have 
 on the occasion^ our house had more the appear- 
 ance of an hospital. We two were left to manage 
 our meals as well as we could;, and this we could 
 but ill perform ; in addition to which we had to 
 look after the invalids, which indeed we never 
 before did in our lives. This misfortune put us 
 strongly in mind of home, and we could not help 
 thinking how comfortable and happy we should 
 have been, if we had been in Bombay that day, and 
 how much we might have enjoyed it in the bosom 
 of our families ; however w^e contented ourselves 
 with the anticipation of being at home that day 
 twelve month. 
 
 It was on the 12th of October that our friend 
 and domestics having partially recovered, we left 
 Chatham for our long expected tour, and pro- 
 ceeded to London. Having paid our respects to 
 the chairman, the secretary, and other friends at 
 the East India House, we were now prepared to 
 leave town for Portsmouth, which was the first 
 place we intended to visit. 
 
 Before we quitted town we were favoured with 
 three official letters of introduction from the 
 East India House, viz. : to Robert Napier, Esq. 
 of Glasgow, engineer, to Messrs. Forrester and 
 Co. engineers, ofLiverpool, and — Laird, Esq. the 
 celebrated iron steam-boat builder, at Liverpool. 
 
 W e must not omit to mention that the Lords 
 Commissioners of the Admiralty not only gave us 
 
389 
 
 permission through the Honourable the Court of 
 Directors to inspect the dock yards, but Sir 
 Charles Adams gave us letters to the Admiral 
 Superintendents of the yards^ from whom we 
 received great kindness^ and we here beg to offer 
 our sincere acknowledgments to them for the 
 facility they afforded us in gaining information in 
 the establishments under their controuL 
 
 Havings by the 15th of October^ procured let- 
 ters of introduction from our friends in London, 
 the following was the day we fixed upon for leav- 
 ing London by the Southampton railway ; it was 
 too late in the season^ winter had already set in, 
 the country had lost its beauty in a great degree, 
 and the days were getting shorter ; however^ from 
 the unavoidable circumstances which detained us, 
 we hoped to enjoy our tour as much as we could, 
 and to collect as much information as time would 
 permit us. We proceeded to the railway station 
 on the morning of the 16th^ at ten o'clock^ and 
 took our seats. The fare from London to South- 
 ampton for the first class is twenty shillings for 
 ladies and gentlemen^ and thirteen shillings for 
 servants. 
 
 The London station is situated a little above 
 Vauxhall bridge, at a place called Nine Elms ; it 
 is a large but plain building, with offices for 
 clerks^ and waiting rooms for passengers, con- 
 veniently fitted up. The locomotive engine, and 
 the carriages for passengers were nearly of the same 
 
390 
 
 description as those of the " Great Western 
 Railway;'^ the line terminates at the beach of 
 Southampton waters. 
 
 We started exactly at eleven o'clock, and ar- 
 rived at Southampton at a quarter past two in the 
 afternoon ; thus we travelled a distance of nearly 
 seventy- seven miles in three hours and a quarter^ 
 including the stoppages at nearly a dozen places^ 
 for taking supplies of coals and w^ater, as well as 
 to leave or take up passengers^ these are called 
 intermediate stations, where small suitable houses 
 are built for the travellers who have to wait the 
 arrival of the trains. The capital invested in this 
 undertaking is the sum of one million eight hun- 
 dred thousand pounds, or eighteen millions of 
 rupees, and the weekly income is said to be about 
 three thousand pounds ; this sum; we understand, 
 exceeded the expectations of the proprietors. 
 This railroad approaches near the British channel, 
 and it gives the town of Southampton a commer- 
 cial importance. Large docks are constructing 
 there for the shipping interests, and it is thought, 
 that vessels from the westward will terminate 
 their voyages at Southampton in preference of 
 going to the Thames through the strait of Dover, 
 which is attended with great trouble and danger, 
 in consequence of the crowded state of that river, 
 and the daily increasing trade of the greatest com- 
 mercial mart — the port of London — at the same 
 time the conveyance of merchandize to the me- 
 
391 
 
 tropolis by the railway will be, it is calculated, 
 less expensive than vessels going with their cargo 
 to the Thames. 
 
 Southampton is situated on the southern coast 
 of England, with a capacious harbour, where a 
 great number of ships may ride in safety, in con- 
 sequence of the harbour being sheltered from 
 winds. 
 
 The town rises gradually from the margin of 
 the water, and has a very good appearance. The 
 port carries on a considerable import trade in 
 wine, fruit, iron, hemp, timber, tar, and pitch, 
 from different parts of Europe. A coasting trade 
 is also carried on with Wales and Newcastle. 
 
 Immediately on our arrival, we hastened to the 
 steam pier to join the Portsmouth steamer, but to 
 our very great disappointment, she had left a few 
 minutes before, and there was not any more to 
 leave that day ; we were therefore forced to pro- 
 ceed by the Gosport coach, which was to leave at 
 four. 
 
 In the meantime we took some refreshments 
 at the Vine Inn, and then took a walk to the High 
 Street, which is the principal ; it is a fine broad 
 street, with rows of good houses on both sides, 
 and nearly three quarters of a mile in length ; the 
 town is well paved, and lighted with gas, and the 
 shops are well furnished with goods. 
 
 We ascertained the population to be about 
 twenty thousand, including the suburbs. We 
 
392 
 
 had no time to see any of the curiosities and 
 objects of attraction ; but we were told, it contains 
 an exhibition of paintings, a literary institution, 
 libraries and reading rooms^ assembly rooms, a 
 theatre, &c., for the relaxation of the inhabitants 
 and the enjoyment of visitors. 
 
 The landing pier is constructed of wood, about 
 nine hundred feet in length, for the convenience 
 of passengers to and from the Isle of Wight, 
 Portsmouth, and Plymouth. 
 
 The steamers of the Oriental Steam Company 
 start from Southampton every month, with the 
 Indian mails for Alexandria. 
 
 We reached Gosport at half past six in the 
 evening; the distance was only sixteen miles, 
 which was found much more fatiguing compared 
 with the seventy-seven miles by the railway. 
 
 W^e had to cross the harbour to Portsmouth ; 
 it was very dark and rainy, yet the dock-yard was 
 pointed out to us ; there was also in the harbour 
 the largest ship in the world, the " Queen,^^ and 
 the Victory,^' which once carried that gallant 
 and immortal British Admiral " Nelson,'^ who 
 fought the battle of Trafalgar during the last 
 French war ; the ship is kept in excellent order, 
 and is preserved for the commemoration of that 
 splendid victory, the anniversary of which was on 
 the 15th of October, on which day she was deco- 
 rated with wreaths of flowers, and a ball and an 
 entertainment was given on board this favourite 
 
393 
 
 ship. We subsequently saw the motto of Lord 
 Nelson, England expects every man to do his 
 duty/' marked, or painted conspicuously between 
 the upper and middle cheek-rails of the head of 
 the vessel ; and many of the veteran sailors, who 
 are now watermen at Portsmouth, seemed to take 
 a great delight in relating the achievements at 
 Trafalgar, and which they called the glorious 
 day." We were, indeed, gratified to see so much 
 respect paid to a warrior who sacrificed his life 
 for the good of his King and country, and whose 
 services were not yet forgotten by the nation, 
 from the circumstance of the ship being held up 
 as a monument. 
 
 On our landing at the Common hard, we went to 
 our friend, Mr. John Fincham, who was kind 
 enough to take us to our quarters, which he had 
 engaged for us in a beautiful part of the town of 
 Portsea, called St. George's Square. 
 
 Our next object was, on the following morning, 
 to go to the dock-yard^ and having delivered the 
 letters we had to the admiral, superintendent, and 
 the several professional gentlemen, we had the 
 opportunity of satisfying our curiosity in every 
 way during our residence of twelve days. We 
 saw the dock-yard, Haslar Hospital, the victual- 
 ling yard, where ship biscuits are manufactured 
 by steam, and where all provisions and spirits are 
 kept for the navy, of which we shall endeavour 
 to give a brief description to our readers ; we have 
 
 s 2 
 
394 
 
 particularly refrained^ as much as we could, from 
 making use of technical terms, in order to make 
 it interesting to the general reader. 
 
 Portsmouth Dock Yard is the largest and 
 the most extensive of all the naval arsenals of 
 Great Britain, it occupies an area of one hun- 
 dred and ten acres of ground, and has the best 
 means of fitting out a great many ships at once 
 in time of emergency. 
 
 The storehouses in this dock yard are very 
 large, and replete with different sorts of stores, 
 and the whole is very systematically arranged, 
 and proper persons are placed to facilitate the 
 equipment of ships. The entrance into this dock 
 yard is through a lofty gateway, but not very 
 inviting; but the numerous buildings for the 
 accommodation of the officers, and other branches 
 of this magnificent arsenal, fills a stranger with 
 admiration. The great basin contains an area of 
 thirty-three thousand square yards, and is capable 
 of receiving six line of battle ships at any time 
 from the harbour. In addition to which, the 
 basin also communicates with four dry docks, all 
 large enough to admit first rates. On one side 
 of it are erected sheers for masting the largest 
 vessels. 
 
 There is a double dock for frigates, and the 
 covered building slips are all very fine ; they were 
 all in repairs when we were at Portsmouth. 
 
 In this dock yard is the wonderful block ma- 
 
395 
 
 chinery invented by Mr. Brunei, who offered his 
 services to construct the same for the French 
 government and the United States of America, 
 without success ; but the British government 
 availed themselves of it, and caused it to be done, 
 according to his design, in the year 1800, it is 
 the only one of the kind in Europe, Blocks of 
 all sizes are manufactured here, from the first 
 process of cutting the wood, up to the completion 
 of the block, done by the machinery. The 
 rapidity and precision with which the operations 
 of boring, mortising, scoring, &c., are performed, 
 is truly astonishing ; ten blocks of four inches are 
 manufactured in the short space of five minutes. 
 The shives for the blocks are also cut, turned, the 
 brass bushes let in, and polished, in less than two 
 minutes. The iron pins which pass through the 
 shives are wrought and turned, when they are put 
 between three pieces of iron, so contrived as to go 
 round the pin, in order that it may be polished ; 
 but at the same time they exert a pressure of 
 more than a ton on all parts of the pin, by which 
 its quality is put to the test, as those of inferior 
 make were sure to split in two by this enormous 
 pressure acting against them. 
 
 The whole of the machinery was made by Mr. 
 Maudsley the engineer, and is put in motion by a 
 thirty-horse power engine, A duplicate of the 
 block machinery is kept in readiness at Chatham 
 
396 
 
 yard, in case of any derangement taking place 
 with the original. 
 
 In addition to this, copper sheets and metal 
 sheathing nails are also manufactured for the ser- 
 vice of the navy at this yard, the former works, 
 however, were not in operation when we were 
 there. Iron and copper bolts are also made here, 
 and the process is very simple. A quantity of 
 red hot iron is presented to two large iron rollers, 
 which revolve round their own axes, having gra- 
 duated grooves, either semi-circular or rectangular i 
 these rollers, therefore, when brought in contact 
 with each other present sections either of a series 
 of complete circles or squares, through which the 
 iron is successively passed till it is reduced to the 
 size required. Copper being a more pliable metal 
 than iron is first cast into thick pieces of certain 
 weight, and passed through the grooves in a cold 
 state. 
 
 The mast and rigging houses are upon extensive 
 scales. The rope house is of a great length and 
 four stories high, on the lower floor of which is 
 the machinery for making large cables, the three 
 others are used for the manufacture of cordage 
 and twine. 
 
 We here saw the ^^Imaum '^ 74 gun ship, which 
 was built at Bombay for his Highness the Imaum 
 of Muscat, who made her a present to King 
 William the Fourth. 
 
397 
 
 The worthy master shipwright of the yard;, 
 Richard Blake^ Esq., was kind enough to show us 
 the model room in which very many beautiful 
 models principally of his own inventions are de- 
 posited, many of them were calculated to econo- 
 mize the conversion of timber for building ships, 
 with which we were very much gratified. 
 
 There is a naval college at Portsmouth yard for 
 seventy students ; thirty, the sons of commissioned 
 officers in the navy, pay in proportion to their 
 rank for board, clothing and education ; and forty 
 sons of noblemen and gentlemen, who pay £120. 
 per year, and at the end of two years if the stu- 
 dents are qualified they are appointed midshipmen 
 in the navy. There is a semaphore here by which 
 intelligence can be conveyed to the Admiralty in 
 London in a few minutes. A school of naval 
 architecture for rearing respectable young men as 
 theoretical and practical ship builders, was estab- 
 lished in this dock yard in 1809, and our kind 
 friend John Fincham, Esq., to whom we owe so 
 much for his kind attention was the instructor 
 here for many years. It was found, that more 
 young men were here produced qualified for ship- 
 wright officers than situations could be found for, 
 and the system has been given up for the last ten 
 years. 
 
 Portsmouth and Portsea are both enclosed with 
 strong and extensive fortifications^ the latter is a 
 more modern town, but irregularly built ; Ports- 
 
898 
 
 mouth contains a mechanics institution^ which is a 
 great source of amusement to many of the mecha- 
 nics in the yard who wish to combine recreation 
 with instruction. The principal street^ which 
 almost in every country town in England is called 
 High Street, is very wide and regular^ and has a 
 great many shops well supplied with goods of every 
 kind. A steam bridge plies between Portsmouth 
 and Gosport every quarter of an hour, besides 
 which a great many boats are always in readiness 
 at that part of Portsea called the Common hard, 
 to convey people to and from the shore to the 
 ships of which there is always a large number 
 lying in the harbour, principally of the navy, and 
 merchant men which touch at Portsmouth in their 
 way to or from the port of London. 
 
 The boatmen here are apt to take great advant- 
 age of strangers, by demanding more than they 
 ought to have, but they have with them a book 
 given by proper authorities in which all the esta- 
 blished fares to the different places are written, and 
 the stranger must ask to see the book whenever 
 he thinks himself overcharged, as they are hable 
 to punishment if they hesitate to produce it, or de- 
 mand more than the book directs. Portsmouth 
 Harbour is said to be one of the finest in Eng- 
 land ; it is sheltered from the winds, and is capa- 
 ble of containing almost the whole of the British 
 navy. The entrance to the mouth of it is nearly 
 two miles in width, and the celebrated roadstead, 
 
399 
 
 called Spithead^ which lies between the coast of 
 Hampshire^ and the Isle of Wight^ is denominated 
 by sailors the King's bedchamber/' on account 
 of its capaciousness^ and the safety with which 
 ships may anchor here. 
 
 We saw nothing remarkable in Portsmouth and 
 Portsea, except the Dockyard and the fortifica- 
 tions. The trade here principally consists of cattle 
 from the Isle of Wight and West of England. 
 Irish corn is also brought hither^ and wine is 
 sometimes imported direct from the continent 
 of Europe^ but it has considerably declined since 
 the cessation of the last French war. 
 
 The town of Gosport is situated on the west 
 side of Portsmouth harbour^ and it carried on 
 considerable retail trade at the time of the late 
 war. The population is about 7000; but the 
 streets are narrow and irregular^ and the houses 
 are small and without any architectural beauty. 
 
 Gosport^ however^ is much benefitted by the 
 removal of the victualling "'yard to it from Ports- 
 mouth, because hundreds of people find employ- 
 ment in this establishment. A large quantity of 
 provisions are here deposited for supplying the 
 ships in the navy. 
 
 This establishment is also called the Royal 
 Clarence yard, and here ship biscuits for the whole 
 royal navy are manufactured by steam ; the several 
 processes for making them are carried on entirely 
 by steam, and the rapidity and precision with 
 
400 
 
 which the biscuits are made by the aid of the ma- 
 chinery is very astonishing. 
 
 The first process is the mixing of flour and 
 water into what is called dough ; this is done by 
 putting a quantity of flour into a cylinder of about 
 5 feet in length and 3 feet in diameter^ and the 
 water is supplied from a cistern close to the cy- 
 linder^ the quantity being regulated by a gauge. 
 The cylinder is divided into two parts^ so that when 
 the upper half is removed, the other part forms a 
 trough from which the dough is easily removed. 
 A shaft armed with knives passes through the cy- 
 linder and put in motion by the engine, mixes 
 the meal and water, and produces five hundred 
 weight of dough in two minutes. The dough is 
 afterwards taken to the breaking machine, that is 
 two large and heavy rollers moving backwards and 
 forwards, which pass very quickly over the dough 
 and reduce it to one uniform consistency and 
 thickness. It is then cut into small pieces prepara- 
 tory to being rolled to the thickness of the biscuit. 
 The latter process is carried on by placing the 
 pieces on a board of 3 feet in width and 6 feet 
 in length, and which by means of a series of fric- 
 tion rollers are reduced to the thickness of the bis- 
 cuits, and expanded into a sheet or square of 
 nearly the same dimensions as the table. This 
 sheet is now brought under a stamping press^ at 
 the lower part of which a series of knives are so 
 placed as to stamp but not separate the sheet 
 
401 
 
 into about forty hexagonal biscuits^ which are 
 then removed into large ovens to be baked. As 
 soon as the biscuits are baked^ they are stowed 
 away into a large room over the stoves, which is 
 always well aired, in order that they may be 
 thoroughly dried, when they are filled into bags 
 containing one hundred and twelve pounds of 
 biscuits, ready to be supplied to the ships. 
 
 Before the erection of the machinery, the bis- 
 cuits were made by manual labour, and a great in- 
 convenience was experienced in insuring a suffi- 
 cient and timely supply in cases of emergency. 
 Here the biscuits are manufactured at the rate of 
 5 J^/. per hundred weight ! There are similar ma- 
 chinery and bakehouses at Deptford and Ply- 
 mouth, and these with the one at Gosport will 
 produce annually upwards of seven thousand tons 
 of biscuits, which quantity, if made by hand, would 
 cost about 20d, per hundred weight ; it will there- 
 fore be seen that the machinery saves a large 
 amount of money to the Government. 
 
 We afterwards saw the store warehouses^ they 
 were very large buildings, some of them 500 feet 
 in length, in which were deposited an enormous 
 quantity of salt beef, ham, chocolate, casks of 
 rum, water-tanks and such other articles for the 
 navy ; it took us nearly two hours to inspect the 
 whole, and we were very much gratified in seeing 
 it, but especially the machinery. 
 
 Near the town of Gosport is the well known 
 
402 
 
 Haslar Hospital^ for the sick and wounded ma- 
 rines and seamen. The building consists of a 
 front more than 550 feet in length, and wings of 
 nearly the same dimensions. It is a royal endow- 
 ment^ and is capable of containing two thousand 
 patients. The hospital is surrounded with high 
 walls_, within which are inclosed residences for the 
 officers, surgeons, &c. ; there is also a very good 
 anatomical museum. We had a letter from our 
 friend Mr. Rice to Dr. Richardson, of Haslar 
 Hospital ; we received much kindness from him 
 and his family, and we had the pleasure of spend- 
 ing a very agreeable evening with them. We saw 
 some of the wards and the museum in the hospi- 
 tal, but they were nearly the same as those in 
 Guy's Hospital, which we have described else- 
 where. 
 
 On the 29th of October we left Portsmouth at 
 ten in the morning by the Brunswick steamer, a 
 more miserable and uncomfortable steam-boat 
 than her we never saw during our entire sojourn 
 in England ; she is an old vessel, and her engines 
 very much out of order. The accommodations 
 are, if we may use the term, very unprofessionally 
 planned, as there is no bulkhead or even screen 
 to detach the main saloon from the bed places, 
 it is in consequence very unpleasant for all pas- 
 sengers ; this plan would do very well where the 
 trip is only for a few hours, but where the pas- 
 sengers have to remain the night on board, the 
 
403 
 
 berths ought to be separated from the saloon in 
 order to make them private. And with all this 
 imperfection she was a very dull sailer^ and very 
 uneasy in her motions. We arrived at Plymouth 
 in twenty-four hours^ the distance being only 
 about 1 30 miles, so that with a powerful and well- 
 constructed vessel the trip can with ease be per- 
 formed in twelve or fourteen hours. We were 
 told that she was to be repaired very shortly; 
 we think she ought to have been condemned^ and 
 a new vessel substituted in her stead. The pas- 
 sage-money for the after cabin was 25s, ^ and the 
 fore cabin 15^. 
 
 We arrived at Southampton in two hours, and 
 having taken some more passengers which came 
 from London by the railway train,^ as well as a 
 carriage, a pair of horses, and about fifty large 
 packages belonging to the Earl of Brownlow, we 
 started again at three o'clock. At six next morn- 
 ing we reached Torquay, where we landed the 
 things belonging to the above nobleman, and pro- 
 ceeded onwards. We had just time to land and 
 look about a little. Torquay is situated on the 
 coast of Devonshire, and from its lonely position^ 
 it is a very dear place. The houses appeared to 
 us to be very neat, many of them standing on an 
 eminence overlooking the sea. It is a watering 
 place in summer; many fashionable people from 
 the west of England principally resort here for 
 the benefit of the salt baths. We sailed all along 
 
404 
 
 the coast of Devonshire, from Torquay to Ply- 
 mouth; the difFs are very bold, perpendicular, 
 and difficult of access. The county of Devonshire 
 is considered one of the most picturesque in Eng- 
 land. The harbour is called the Hamoaze, and 
 the view on entering it is remarkably fine. The 
 Drake Islands, situated in the centre of the har- 
 bour, Mount Edgecombe, the seat of Lord Mount 
 Edgecombe on the left, the victualling office, 
 which is a modern work, consisting of a beautiful 
 wharf, and capacious and lofty storehouses on the 
 right, together with that gigantic work, the break- 
 water, give a beautiful and varied effect. Mount 
 Edgecombe is a small mount covered with fine 
 shady trees, and affords to the people of Ply- 
 mouth and Devonport one of the most delightful 
 walks. We landed at the place called Admiral's 
 Stairs, and took our quarters at a lodging-house 
 in George Street, which is a very quiet and re- 
 spectable street in Devonport, and a great many 
 lodgings are always to be had here, as there is 
 few houses that are not intended for the accom- 
 modation of the strangers. We, immediately 
 after dinner, went and paid our respects to the 
 admiral superintendent, and the master ship- 
 wrights of the yard. Admiral Warren very kindly 
 gave directions that every facility should be 
 afforded us, and we here beg to convey our grate- 
 ful sentiments to him and the worthy master 
 shipwright, T. F. Hawkes, Esq., together with all 
 
405 
 
 the other officers of the yard for the pohte atten- 
 tion we received from them during om^ stay of 
 seven days at Plymouth. 
 
 The towns of Devonport and Plymouth are 
 much superior to Portsmouth and Portsea. They 
 are regular^ very well paved, and the houses are 
 nearly all built of limestone with which the 
 county of Devonshire abounds. After the esta- 
 blishment of the dock yark at Plymouth which is 
 situated about a mile from it, the neighbourhood 
 of the dock yard was occupied by houses of those 
 that were employed there and so rapidly did it, 
 improve, that in a short time it became a small 
 town, and was called Plymouth Dock. In the 
 year 1824, the inhabitants, proud of the rapid pro- 
 gress they had made in a comparatively short period 
 and knowing the importance of the town, applied 
 for and received permission from King George 
 the Fourth to call it Devonport. And a monu- 
 ment has been erected in Carr Street by the 
 inhabitants in honour of this event. 
 
 Near the monument is a Town Hall, erected 
 about twenty years ago, it is a fine building with 
 a handsome portico in the front and is used for 
 public meetings. 
 
 Plymouth Dock yard which should now be 
 called Devonport Dock Yard, stands on the east- 
 ern bank of the Hamoaze and is one of the prin- 
 cipal naval arsenals of England. The entrance to 
 it is through a large and handsome gateway, at 
 
406 
 
 the bottom of Fore Street^ which is the principal 
 one in Devonport. It is very wide and well 
 lighted with gas, and has an imposing appearance 
 from the Dock Yard gate. 
 
 The appearance of the Dock Yard at the 
 entrance is remarkably fine, and one would hardly 
 suppose that it is a busy place such as a dock 
 yard always is, no blows of hammers or no con- 
 fused noise is heard here, neither do we see the 
 dock and slips or persons moving about, or any 
 sort of material used in shipbuilding purposes, on 
 the contrary we see an extensive and wide avenue 
 in the front, the warden^s house on the right, and 
 the dock chapel, and the guard room on the same 
 side. On the left hand is a small piece of ground 
 containing a few flower plants and a fountain, and 
 a few strangers or visitors walking here and there 
 during the working hours of the yard. 
 
 This part is also kept remarkably clean and 
 free from chips or dirt, so that it presents a scene 
 far difi'erent from a naval arsenal. 
 
 Going through this avenue and turning to the 
 left we see a long range of building which is ap- 
 propriated to the residence of the senior officers ; 
 the Admiral's house is in the middle part and is 
 easily distinguished from the rest by its exter- 
 nal beauty, and largeness, the other houses are 
 also very commodious and a beautiful terrace 
 extends along the front of this building at the end 
 of which is the Admiral superintendent's office. 
 
407 
 
 The Dock Yard contains an area of 70 acres^ 
 and has magnificent store houses, and other build- 
 ings suitable to the importance of a great naval 
 arsenal. The new north dock was constructed in the 
 year 1789, it is 285 feet in lengthy 85 feet wide 
 and 29 feet deep, the smithy is situated near this 
 dock, and contains upwards of forty forges, in the 
 front of it is a wharf on which a great number of 
 anchors are kept. 
 
 In addition to these there is a double dock 
 called the north dock^ and a third one which was 
 built in the reign of William the Thirds and now 
 used for repairs of frigates. 
 
 The building slips are very fine and covered 
 over with beautiful roofs. We were here greatly 
 pleased to see the " Hindoostan^^ building all of 
 Teak, and there are also two new vessels building, 
 on the plan of the present surveyor Sir William 
 Symonds, these vessels will be the largest second 
 rates in the world, and will carry ninety guns on 
 two decks. 
 
 The rigging house is a fine building it is 
 three stories high, and four hundred and eighty 
 feet in length, where immense quantity of rigging 
 is kept in readiness for fitting out ships. 
 
 The Rope house is 400 yards long, where cables 
 and cordage are manufactured the same as at Chat- 
 ham and Portsmouth. There are also other 
 necessary workshops, such as bricklayer, plumber^ 
 glazier, joiner, &c. 
 
408 
 
 A steam engine is also erected to drain the 
 docks, and new saw mills have very lately been 
 introduced ; we may as well state here that the 
 Admiralty is said to have come to the determina- 
 tion of erecting sawmills in all the royal dock 
 yards. 
 
 The mould loft in the dockyard, is large, though 
 the floor is not quite so good as in Chatham 
 yard; but the operation of laying off ships, and 
 making the moulds or patterns is carried on with 
 the same accuracy and precision. 
 
 In the month of September, 1840, a fire broke 
 out at Plymouth, which completely destroyed the 
 Talavera, 74 guns, and the Imogene frigate ; and 
 the Minden, 74 guns, which was built at Bombay 
 by our grandfather, w^as in the Double, her head 
 caught fire, which injured her bow very much ; 
 but by dint of great exertion, the progress of the 
 flames was checked, and the ship saved from 
 destruction. We walked on board the vessel 
 with much pleasure and j)ride, as she was the first 
 ship that was built out of England for the Royal 
 Navy ; and our grandfather had received the appro- 
 bation of the Board of Admiralty for building this 
 ship, and for which they made him a present of 
 a handsome silver cup, made by Rundell and 
 Bridge, the celebrated jewellers and goldsmiths of 
 London. 
 
 There is also in and near Devonport, a gun 
 wharf, which was built nearly a century ago ; it 
 
409 
 
 lies north of the back yard^ and covers five acres 
 of ground. 
 
 There are two storehouses in it, which contain 
 a vast quantity of muskets, pistols^ cutlasses, and 
 other weapons ranged along the walls, and the 
 ground is occupied by a great number of guns and 
 pyramids of shots. 
 
 The Admiral was kind enough to give us his 
 own gig, in which we went to see the breakwater. 
 It is the most gigantic work that was ever under- 
 taken and accomplished. During the late war 
 with France there was a great difficulty ex- 
 perienced by the English vessels which were to be 
 fitted out at this grand naval arsenal, in conse- 
 quence of the harbour being open and exposed to 
 the ocean and the southwest wind which is very 
 prevalent in winter. A safe place of anchorage 
 was therefore greatly required ; and by the means 
 of this breakwater the natural defect of Plymouth 
 harbour has been completely remedied ; and it is 
 now considered one of the best in England. This 
 work is another great instance of English per- 
 severance, it so completely shelters the harbour. 
 We noticed the water within the mound was 
 smooth when the sea without it was in consider- 
 able agitation ; and we were informed that in 
 181 7^ two small vessels of war, that were anchored 
 without the breakwater, were lost during a hur- 
 ricane, w^hile a small collier, that was under its 
 cover, rode out the gale in safety. A writer, in 
 
 T 
 
410 
 
 speaking of this extraordinary and stupendous 
 work-in the Penny Magazine for the year 1836, 
 says, 
 
 It was not until 1806, when Lord Howick 
 " (the present Earl Grey) being placed at the head 
 of the Admiralty, the attention of the Govern- 
 ment was turned to this important object, it is 
 believed, at the suggestion of the Earl St. Vin- 
 cent. A careful survey of Plymouth Sound was 
 made by Mr. Whidbey, in conjunction with Mr. 
 Rennie. These gentlemen reported on the 
 practicability of rendering the anchorage secure 
 by means of a breakwater. The commencement 
 of the undertaking was delayed ; but on the Right 
 Hon. Charles Yorke succeeding to the Admiralty, 
 the engineers took measures for carrj'ing the 
 project into execution. 
 
 " The plan adopted was to form an impenetra- 
 ble barrier of large stones across the middle of 
 Plymouth Sound, extending from east to west 
 " 1700 yards, and leaving an entrance on each 
 " side sufficiently capacious to allow the largest 
 men of war an easy passage in and out of the 
 harbour. The centre of the breakwater was to 
 " be 1000 yards in a straight line, continued 350 
 yards more at either end, at an angle of 120 
 degrees, by which form it was expected the 
 force of the waves would be more effectually 
 " resisted. The breadth of the base was fixed at 
 " 120 feet; at the top SO feet, and the depth from 
 
411 
 
 the upper surface to the bed of the sea 40 feet. 
 It was computed that 2,500^000 tons of stone 
 would be required to construct the whole work ; 
 and the entire cost was calculated at £1,171^000 
 sterling. 
 
 Every thing being determined on^ a quarry of 
 " limestone, or rather grey marble, containing 
 about twenty-five acres, was purchased of the 
 " Duke of Bedford, for the sum of £10,000. This 
 " lying contiguous to Catwater, at the head of the 
 harbour, presented a secure spot to embark the 
 stones. Twelve vessels of a suitable construe- 
 tion were built in the Dockyard, and forty others 
 " hired, to convey the stones to their appointed 
 " station. Seven hundred artificers and labourers 
 " of all descriptions were engaged for the whole 
 service. The first stone M^as deposited on the 
 " 12th of August, 1832. iS LL 
 
 The vessels were laden and discharged by 
 means of the following contrivance : — Small 
 iron trucks, each capable of carrying a stone of 
 " from two to six tons weight, were conducted 
 " along an iron railway, leading from the quarry, 
 through the stern post, into the vesseFs hold. 
 Each vessel carried sixteen of these trucks. 
 The place where they were to discharge their 
 cargo was marked by buoys, and by sights 
 erected on the shore. On arriving at the spot, 
 the trucks, with their burdens, were drawn out 
 successively to the entrance port, the fall of 
 
412 
 
 which dropped the stone into its place^ while 
 
 the carriage remained suspended by its tackle. 
 " In this manner, a cargo of eighty tons was dis- 
 
 charged in forty or fifty minutes.'^ 
 
 The breakwater is now completed within about 
 80 yards at one extremity, w^hich is gradually pro- 
 gressing, and will be two or three years before it is 
 ready, because very few people are working at it. 
 
 We were very much pleased with our visit to 
 this place, and left it, on the 5th of November, 
 for Bristol, by a stage coach. We started at 
 seven in the morning from Devonport, and came 
 to Exeter where the coach stopped about half an 
 hour, to allow the passengers to take some re- 
 freshment. It is invariably a custom for stage 
 coaches to start from an inn, and to end their 
 journey at an inn also ; this is done especially for 
 the comfort and convenniece of travellers, who, 
 by this arrangement, have no trouble in finding 
 accommodations, at any hour of the day or night, 
 in a perfectly strange town or place. These inns 
 are very commodious, conducted by respectable 
 people, and where every variety of food and drink, 
 as well as beds, and private sitting rooms are to 
 be had at reasonable charges. Exeter is the 
 capital or the principal city of Devonshire ; it is 
 ^ 172 miles from London, and is famous for the 
 manufacture of woollen goods. At five in the 
 afternoon we reached Taunton, a town in the 
 county of Somersetshire; we here wasted only a 
 
413 
 
 few minutes to change horses, and after a tiresome 
 and fatiguing journey, arrived at Bristol^ and put 
 up at the Lion Inn/^ where the coach stopped. 
 
 The distance between Devonport and Bristol 
 is about one hundred and twenty-five miles^ and 
 in accomphshing this distance^ we changed twenty- 
 six pairs of horses^ at about every eight or nine 
 miles, and so expeditious they are in effecting 
 this, that there is not a moment of time unneces- 
 sarily wasted. There is a man to every stage- 
 coach, besides the coachman, who is called the 
 guard,'^ to take care of the passengers' lug- 
 gage ; he blows a horn, or a bugle, when at a short 
 distance from the station where the horses are to 
 be changed ; this is a warning to the people there, 
 who, on hearing the sound of the horn, bring out 
 the animals harnessed and ready to go into the 
 carriage. Immediately on the arrival of the ve- 
 hicle, the tired horses are relieved, and the four 
 fresh horses put in, within five minutes. 
 
 Bristol is situated on the western coast of Eng- 
 land, about eight miles from the mouth of the 
 river Avon, which empties itself into the river 
 Severn. It is said to be a very ancient town, and 
 is the nearest port of England for carrying on 
 trade with America. 
 
 The city has an ancient appearance, is not very 
 regular, yet considerable in extent, paved, and 
 lighted with gas, and some of the houses are very 
 large, and of much external beauty. 
 
414 
 
 We could speak but very little of this city, 
 because the weather^ during our stay of two days 
 at this place^ was very wet and disagreeable, and 
 another misfortune was, we had no friend here. 
 We were favoured with two letters of introduc- 
 tion from our kind friend, John Seppings^ Esq., 
 to Mr. Patteson, the builder to the Great Western 
 Steam Ship Company^ and to another gentleman 
 belonging to the said company, the former gentle- 
 man whom we were most anxious to see, with 
 the hope of deriving professional information, and 
 especially regarding the largest iron steam vessel, 
 that was there building for the Atlantic navigation 
 by the company, but to our great disappointment, 
 he was absent for a few days from Bristol. The 
 other letter, however, was useful, as we obtained 
 permission from the gentleman to whom it was 
 addressed to view the company^s dock yard and 
 the vessel in question. 
 
 The successful voyages the Great Western 
 steam ship made from Bristol to America, roused 
 the attention of enterprising men in London to 
 construct the large steam vessels, the British 
 Queen, and the President, for the same purpose. 
 
 The Great Western Steam Ship Company also 
 having seen the success of their first vessel, are 
 now building an iron vessel, which will be the 
 largest in the world. We went to see the dock yard, 
 and we were very much struck at the large dimen- 
 sions of this vessel ; we very much regretted the 
 
415 
 
 absence of the builder, and as his assistant was 
 also not there, we gathered but a very imperfect 
 account of this gigantic work ; her extreme length 
 is 343 feet, and is meant to be propelled by the 
 Archimedes screw, instead of paddle w^heels at 
 the sides ; her engines will be of 500 horse power 
 each, and she w^ill, when completed, cost about 
 £100,000. sterling. Her frames were all up, and 
 the bottom, which is composed of iron plates, 
 w^as completed as far as the wales, except the part 
 near the stern, and we w^re told that she would 
 take a twelvemonth more to be ready for sea. 
 Her engines were also to be made on the premises, 
 for which purpose a foundery has been erected by 
 the company, and a steam engine, lathes, planing 
 machines, cutting and boring machines, and other 
 necessary apparatus are fitted, and a part of the 
 engine was already made. 
 
 We consider this as a very hazardous under- 
 taking, because we have had but very little expe- 
 rience in sea-going iron steamers, as none of them 
 have been running a sufficient length of time to 
 prove the superiority of iron over wood, in salt 
 water. For river navigation iron-built boats are 
 very convenient, for they are lighter than wooden 
 vessels of the same size, consequently they require 
 a proportionate less draught of v/ater ; but where 
 that is immaterial, which is the case at sea, we think 
 wooden vessels are much superior ; they will last 
 longer than iron ones, and can be constructed to 
 
416 
 
 sail quite as fast as iron vessels. The Halifax 
 line of packets, now running between England 
 and America, have shewn what steamers built of 
 wood can achieve. We have conversed with 
 many of our professional friends on the subject, 
 and they a^ree with us in opinion that iron vessels, 
 in consequence of the action of salt water on iron, 
 by which it is soon destroyed, will not answer for 
 sea. 
 
 An eminent engineer told us that he was in- 
 formed by a ship builder of an improvement that 
 he had made in building iron vessels, which was, 
 that he used iron timbers, and made the bottom 
 of wood, our friend justly remarked, that that was 
 no improvement at all, it was only coming round 
 from iron to wood again ; this proves that iron 
 boats are only fit for fresh water. 
 
 Bristol contains several sugar refineries, and 
 the principal manufactures are, glass, tin work, 
 braziery, snufF, leather, gunpowder, earthenware, 
 and white lead. It also carried on a very consi 
 derable trade with West India and North Ame- 
 rica, and is said to be the second commercial city 
 in England ; it is, however, of late years, exceeded 
 by Liverpool. We have read, that very few 
 towns in England (the metropolis excepted) can 
 boast of so many useful and charitable institu- 
 tions ; there are infirmaries, hospitals, a literary 
 and philosophical institution, a public library, and 
 many others. 
 
417 
 
 The quay at Bristol is a wharf of upwards of a 
 mile in length, which affords a great facility to the 
 ships in loading and unloading their cargo, yet 
 much damage was formerly sustained in conse- 
 quence of vessels lying aground at low water. A 
 floating harbour was therefore constructed in 
 1809, by damming up the river across, and open- 
 ing a new channel, over which two fine cast iron 
 bridges are erected. The harbour is entered by 
 locks, and is capable of containing one thousand 
 ships, which come in or go out at neap tide. 
 
 This undertaking is said to have cost about a 
 million pounds sterling, which sum was raised in 
 shares of £135. each; there are also several mer- 
 cantile dock yards here, and the place presents a 
 scene of considerable activity and business. 
 
 On the 8th of November w^e left Bristol for 
 Gloucester, in order to proceed from thence the 
 next morning by the railway to Birmingham. 
 We started at four o'clock by the mail coach, and 
 in four hours arrived at the Bull Inn, Gloucester, 
 where we remained for the night. We found this 
 the largest hotel that we had ever seen in Eng- 
 land ; it had beds and accommodations for more 
 than one hundred and fifty persons, great atten- 
 tion is paid to persons that take up their quarters 
 here, and it is particularly noted for its respec- 
 tability. 
 
 Gloucester is an inland port, situated about 55 
 miles north east of Bristol, and we heard that 
 
 s 2 
 
418 
 
 ships are conveyed here by means of a circuitous 
 canal opened from the river Severn. 
 
 At seven next morning we left the hotel and 
 joined the train, which started at half past seven, 
 and as this line was not then completed as far as 
 Birmingham, the passengers were conveyed the 
 last seven miles by coaches belonging to the Rail- 
 way Company. The distance between Gloucester 
 and Birmingham is about fifty-four miles, and we 
 reached the latter place at half past eleven. 
 
 The Birmingham station is a very large build- 
 ing, and there is a large refreshment room fitted 
 up for passengers, and half an hour is allowed to 
 those proceeding from London to Liverpool at 
 this station for their meals. The train from 
 London arrived the moment we reached the 
 station, and we joined the Liverpool train which 
 started at twelve o^clock. This line meets the 
 Liverpool and Manchester at Newton, which is 
 half way between the two places, and is called the 
 Grand Junction Railway, and was completed in 
 1837- The whole distance from Birmingham to 
 Liverpool is 97 miles, which the train performed 
 in four hours and a half. At a quarter past five 
 we arrived at a place called the Edgehill station, 
 about a mile and a half from the Liverpool ter- 
 minus, and we were very much surprised at the 
 tunnel which leads from here to that place. After 
 we entered the tunnel there was complete darkness, 
 and in a few minutes we suddenly emerged into 
 
419 
 
 day light. The effect was rather singular^ and we 
 were very much struck with the grandeur and 
 boldness of the roof, and the surrounding buildings 
 belonging to the company. 
 
 Our countrymen will be astonished when we 
 tell them^ that over the tunnel stands a portion of 
 the town of Liverpool, and it seems very extra- 
 ordinary and curious to imagine our travelling 
 under-ground, while over our heads are moving 
 about horses and men, and in fact every transac- 
 tion carried on. Here then, again, is a remark- 
 able proof of our frequent assertion, that the 
 English are a most wonderful people. 
 
 We took up our abode at the Phoenix Hotel, 
 Lime-street, which is situated only a few yards 
 from the railway station. 
 
 We next morning went to the office of 
 Messrs. HoUinshead, Tetley, and Co. to whom we 
 had letters of introduction from our friends 
 Messrs. Forbes, Forbes, and Co., of London, and 
 it was owing to the kindness of the gentlemen of 
 this firm that we were able to see all that we 
 wished. They very politely directed a confidential 
 person in their office, in fact their own cash- 
 keeper, to devote his time in showing us about 
 while we were at this place. 
 
 Liverpool is at present the great rival port of 
 London, and 205 miles north-west of that great 
 metropolis. It is seated on the right bank of 
 
420 
 
 the Mersey, and has an excellent harbour^ formed 
 with much labour and expense. 
 
 We were told that about a hundred years ago 
 Liverpool was an insignificant place^ and contained 
 a few thousands of inhabitants, but so rapidly did 
 it increase in size, commercial importance, and 
 population, that at present the inhabitants are 
 said to be 200,000 in number, and the large docks 
 with ships from all parts of the world, at once in- 
 dicate the extensive trade of the port, and it is 
 at present said to be the second port to that of 
 London, and from the daily increasing traffic, and 
 the enterprize of the merchants, it is impossible to 
 say to what greatness this place may arrive in 
 half a century more. 
 
 Liverpool is not a manufacturing town, but it is 
 a great commercial mart, and from its proximity to 
 Birmingham, Preston, Manchester, and Glasgow, 
 large manufacturing towns, as well as the city of Dub- 
 lin, the capital of Ireland, it attracts innumerable 
 ships from all America, West and East India, and 
 other parts of the world, for the accommodation of 
 which large docks are constructed at a great ex- 
 pense, and the number of ships that are to be 
 seen here is truly astonishing, they appear almost 
 as a forest of masts, yards, and rigging, and the 
 town, as well as the river Mersey presents a scene 
 of considerable degree of activity, bustle, and 
 real business. 
 
421 
 
 The largest of all the docks is the Princess dock, 
 which was opened in 1821. It is 500 yards in 
 length, and 106 yards in breadth, and covers an 
 area of 57^000 square yards. On one end of it 
 are vessels discharging their cargoes, while the 
 other end is devoted to the foreign ships taking 
 in their freights principally of the American flag. 
 Large sheds are also erected all round to protect 
 the valuable goods from the ever-changing and 
 inclement English weather, the entrance to this 
 magnificent dock is by gates 45 feet wide and 
 34 deep, and vessels can be admitted at half tide. 
 
 The Trafalgar, Adelaide and Waterloo docks, 
 are also very fine, the latter was opened in the 
 year 1834, and contains an area of 30,7^4 yards. 
 These three are named, one from Lord Nelson^s 
 victory, one in honour of the Queen Dowager, 
 and the other from the victory of the Duke of 
 Wellington. 
 
 Besides these, there are the King^s, the Queen^s, 
 the Brunswick dock, which communicate with each 
 other, and near them are several merchant build- 
 ing yards. The Clarence dock is entirely appro- 
 priated to the use of the steam packets, that leave 
 daily from Liverpool to Glasgow and Dublin ; it 
 has an area of more than 29,300 square yards^ and 
 900 yards of quay room. There is also a basin of 
 considerable size attached to this dock, and the 
 steamers which lay here are all open for inspection 
 to strangers. 
 
422 
 
 The facility and the convenience these docks 
 afford in loading and unloading the ships is ex- 
 tremely beneficial to the commerce and to this 
 may be attributed the rapid advancement of the 
 trade of Liverpool. 
 
 We were very much amused, and quite asto- 
 nished at the enormous quantity of the valuable 
 property that was deposited under the sheds near 
 the docks, and the bustle that we witnessed here, 
 hundreds of waggons were hurrying along loaded 
 with cotton bales, piece goods, tobacco, hemp, 
 rum, wine, spirits, sugar, and a great many other 
 articles. Ships from every part of the world were 
 taking in and emptying out their cargoes, and 
 thousands of men, all full of business and activity 
 were moving about in every possible direction, and 
 we could not but help thinking what an advantage 
 it would be to our own country where docks such 
 as in England constructed there, and we hope that 
 sooner or later our countrymen in India will in 
 conjunction with their European brethren take 
 this into their consideration, and make a begin- 
 ning. The advantages of these docks manifest 
 themselves in what we have spoken about this 
 flourishing port. 
 
 The town of Liverpool is any thing but re- 
 gular, and the streets most of them are con- 
 fined, narrow and dirty. There are some how- 
 ever wide and straight, with fine shops and well 
 lighted with gas. Some of the private buildings 
 
423 
 
 buildings are good, and the part nearest 
 the docks is like the city of London/^ entirely 
 open^ devoted to the mercantile offices^ shops, and 
 immense warehouses for cotton, coffee, and other 
 staple articles of trade. The Town Hall is a noble 
 building, where the town council meet and public 
 dinners take place ; it is inspected by applying at 
 the treasurer's office for a ticket. Our guide Mr. 
 Littlejohn kindly procured admission for us, and 
 we were conducted through a suite of rooms by a 
 person paid for the purpose by the council, and 
 who does not expect (as is the case in a great many 
 public establishments in England) any gratuity. 
 The saloon contains some very good paintings, and 
 we were much pleased with the large dimensions 
 of the ball room ; it is 81 feet long, 41 feet 6 
 inches wide, and nearly as high. All the rooms are 
 very well furnished and kept in excellent order. 
 
 After viewing the interior we went up to the gal- 
 lery which surrounds the outside of the cupola, by 
 ascending a flight of winding stairs. The prospect 
 from this height is very good ; the river, docks and 
 shipping, together with the town and the country 
 round can be seen from here, but it being a foggy 
 day we could not see any thing to perfection. 
 
 At a short distance from the Town Hall is the 
 Exchange, where all the merchants congregate, 
 and where mercantile transactions are carried on ; 
 it is a fine regular building, and the exterior is very 
 neat and elegant. , It embraces three sides of a 
 quadrangle, in the centre of which stands a well- 
 
424 
 
 executed monument of that great and immortal 
 man^ Nelson. It was erected in 1813 by private 
 subscription^ and is said to have cost £90,000. 
 There is a news-room in this building which 
 astonished us very much, it is 92 feet by 54. and 
 we saw upwards of three or four hundred people, 
 some talking, some walking about, while a great 
 number were busy in reading papers, principally 
 foreign. This is a very excellent plan, because a 
 merchant can here learn all foreign news of trade, 
 and know every thing that is going on at home ; 
 he can also gain much information, and cultivate 
 acquaintances, and all these advantages can be se^ 
 cured by the annual payment of a small sum. On 
 a slate in this room we saw arrivals and depar- 
 tures of shipping, and intelligence of vessels either 
 at sea or in other ports. 
 
 The people of Liverpool are, strictly speaking, a 
 money making set, yet they have not neglected 
 literature, the fine arts, and patronizing places of 
 amusement ; for there is a fine exhibition of paint- 
 ings, a mechanics institution, a public library, 
 a zoological garden, three theatres, and several 
 charitable institutions and places for recreation. 
 The Theatre Royal is the principal one, and the 
 other two are called the Liver Theatre, and the 
 Amphitheatre, but we do not think it necessary to 
 notice them after having described the theatres of 
 London. They are not very large, and the ad- 
 mission to the boxes is only 3^. In the principal 
 one, Mr. Carter, of whom we have spoken in 
 
425 
 
 Astley^s Amphitheatre, was showing his collection 
 of wild beasts on the stage at Liverpool at the 
 time. 
 
 We went to see Mr. Laird^s Dock-yard at 
 Birkenhead, which is on the opposite bank of the 
 river, and small steamers convey people across. 
 We received much attention from him, and we 
 had the opportunity of satisfying our curiosity 
 about iron vessels. The process of building ves- 
 sels with iron is more simple and expeditious than 
 with wood ; there was one vessel nearly in frame, 
 and another was approaching towards completion. 
 There were smiths' shops, and a mould loft on the 
 premises. Mr. Laird had lately built three iron 
 steam vessels for the Niger Expedition. 
 
 We were anxious to see the three iron steam 
 boats which Mr. Laird had lately built, they 
 were in one of the docks at Liverpool; he there- 
 fore kindly promised to take us there the day fol- 
 lowing the next; and accordingly we accompanied 
 him on that day to the dock where the vessels 
 were fitting out. These three steamers are built 
 by the British Government for the purpose of 
 sending them to the river Niger, in Africa, in 
 order to explore the country, to establish trade 
 with the natives, to show them the advantage of 
 commerce, and to endeavour to put down the de- 
 moralizing influence of the slave trade which now 
 prevails among the Africans. 
 
 These vessels are built purposely for this laud- 
 
426 
 
 able object^ and the undertaking is called the 
 Niger Expedition/' and a vast body of influen- 
 tial and humane individuals have formed a society 
 collectively to co-operate with the Government in 
 this enterprize, and we hope they may be success- 
 ful in their praiseworthy object. The vessels are 
 all very good models^ and particularly adapted for 
 navigating shallow rivers. They were equipped 
 under the superintendence of Mr. A. B. Cruize, 
 Foreman of Portsmouth Dock-yard, and who was 
 kind enough to furnish us with the particulars 
 that we required of these vessels. The two which 
 are larger than the third are about 450 tons, have 
 two engines of thirty-five horse-power each, and 
 can carry coals for one hundred and eighty hours, 
 or seven days and a half. The third called the 
 Soudan, has only one engine of thirty-five horse- 
 power, and can carry coals for five days (of twenty- 
 four hours.) The interior of these vessels are 
 very conveniently fitted up, so as to contribute as 
 much as possible to the comforts of the officers 
 and the ship^s company. 
 
 In consequence of the warm and unhealthy 
 climate of Africa, which is very uncongenial to 
 European constitutions, great attention is paid to 
 proper ventilation. The plan adopted for this 
 purpose is very ingenious : Two fanners similar to 
 those used for blasting the smiths^ fires at Chat- 
 ham yard, are fixed in the engine-room, they are 
 put in motion by the engine, and when the engine 
 
427 
 
 is at rest they can be moved by a crank handle.- 
 The fanned wheel when revolving with great ve- 
 locity^ forces a quantity of air which is conveyed 
 to every part and every cabin in the ship by 
 means of flat square pipes under the beams^ and 
 valves of thin plates fitted in every cabin to regu- 
 late the draught. In addition to which^ similar 
 pipes, two in number^, are fitted in every cabin 
 from the deck^ having perforated tops or lids^ the 
 one reaching a little above the lower deck^ and 
 the other only a foot or two below the beams ; 
 and by this simple but scientific contrivance^ a 
 free ventilation is secured^ because the rarified at- 
 mosphere which always floats at the top^ or in 
 other words, near the ceiling of a room, will escape 
 through the short pipe, and fresh air will supply 
 its place through the long one ; thus there would 
 be a constant circulation of air, which would ren- 
 der the apartment delightfully cool and pleasant. 
 
 We were extremely gratified in inspecting these 
 vessels, they are very substantially built, and look 
 very handsome and lively above water ; the engines 
 were made by Messrs. Forrester and Co. of Liver- 
 pool, at their manufactory called the Vauxhall 
 Foundery, which we visited. On delivering the 
 letter we had from the East India House, much 
 politeness was shewn to us ; and we were conduct- 
 ed round their establishment. There were no large 
 works manufacturing. The foundery was large 
 and there was every thing that is required for a 
 
428 
 
 foundery^ and several small steam engines were in 
 progress. 
 
 On the 14th of November we left Liverpool by 
 a magnificent steam vessel called the Achilles^^ 
 for Glasgow. She was nearly 1000 ton in burthen 
 and four hundred and fifty horse power and her 
 accommodations were the best that we ever saw, 
 the saloon was very large, and well furnished, there 
 were two fire places, and mirrors fitted into frames 
 between the ports. The skylights were circular 
 and very handsome, and sofas covered with silk 
 were ranged at the upper end of the saloon, or the 
 part nearest the stern, and the bed places were 
 also very conveniently fitted up, and kept remark- 
 ably clean. 
 
 We entered the Frith of Clyde in the morning 
 and the scenery on both sides of it was very bold 
 and romantic. The mountains were very lofty 
 and the summit of the highest was already 
 covered with snow, which we were informed would 
 not melt before the month of March or April ; 
 at half past ten we reached Greenock, and as our 
 steamer could not go to Glasgow, on account of 
 its being ebb tide, we were put on board a small 
 iron steamer which conveyed us in two hours to 
 that place. We were on deck, and as we ap- 
 proached within half a mile of the landing place, 
 we attracted a great many people on shore, and 
 many of them actually took the trouble of running 
 along the beach, keeping pace with the steamer. 
 
429 
 
 (which was gohig at a slow rate in consequence of 
 the crowded state of the river) to the landing 
 place in order to peep at us ; and when we left 
 the vessel^ we were surrounded by at least a thou- 
 sand persons, all noticing the peculiarity of our 
 costume, which they very seldom see at that place, 
 as we believe that no Parsee save ourselves and 
 our cousin iVrdaseer Cursetjee^ had ever before 
 been to Glasgow ; we were not at all concerned 
 or annoyed at it, because we saw the Scotch people 
 were very much pleased at our appearance. We 
 however had a gentleman waiting our arrival who 
 immediately called a carriage for us^ and we all 
 were driven to Carrick's Royal Hotel in George^s 
 Square^ where we remained the whole time we 
 were at Glasgow, it is a fine place, and much at- 
 tention was paid by the proprietor to us. It being 
 Sunday we found every shop closed, and it appears 
 to us that the Scotch were very particular in keep- 
 ing the Sabbath. The next morning we were 
 favoured with a call from Mr. Wright, w^ho was 
 requested by our friends at Liverpool, to pay us 
 attention, he was accompanied by his son Mr. 
 John Wright who had been to Bombay and knew 
 our friends very well there, his brother is now a 
 partner in the firm of Messrs. Nicol and Co. of 
 Bombay and he himself is interested in the well 
 known firm of John Fleming and Co. of Glasgow. 
 And we must confess that we never dreamt of re- 
 ceiving so much attention from these gentlemen. 
 
430 
 
 the latter was so very polite as to leave his busi- 
 ness^ and mostly devoted his time in showing us 
 the beauties of the place. 
 
 We also had the pleasure of being introduced 
 to John Flemings Esq.^ and his partner, James 
 Watson, Esq., and we shall never forget the kind 
 acts of friendship and hospitality we received 
 from them and their families during our stay 
 at Glasgow. 
 
 Mr. Wright first took us to the Exchange, 
 which is a beautiful building of modern erection, 
 and has a handsome portico in the front. The 
 building is 177 by 62, and the principal room is 
 always thronged with merchants and others who 
 come to read newspapers, of which great numbers 
 are strewed about on the tables. There are about 
 five hundred subscribers, and a stranger may 
 be introduced by a subscriber and his name is 
 entered in a book, by which he may have the 
 privilege of going there for a fortnight free of any 
 expense. The Exchange stands at the head of 
 Queen Street, and at a small distance from it, is 
 now building a handsome edifice, which is to be 
 appropriated to the Royal Bank. 
 
 Glasgow is the principal commercial city of 
 Scotland, and is surrounded with all sorts of 
 manufactories, cotton mills especially, and there 
 are large establishments here which employ thou- 
 sands of people. It is situated on the north bank 
 of the river Clyde, on which glided the first 
 
431 
 
 steamer that ever was constructed ; and the 
 people of Glasgow boasted of having several of 
 them on the Clyde before there was one on the 
 Thames^ so that great credit is due to the Scotch 
 people in paving the way for this most useful im- 
 provement^ the adoption of which has been one of 
 the greatest use to mankind. 
 
 The harbour is called the Bromielaw^ and is 
 always crowded with steam-boats and small sail- 
 ing craft. There are no docks at Glasgow^ in 
 consequence of the river being shallow; it has 
 however been considerably deepened, and vessels 
 of 6'00 tons can now come up to the harbour, 
 where formerly there was not water enough for a 
 vessel of 300 tons ; this shews the industry of the 
 Scotch people, who, though not quite so active in 
 their movements as the English, yet are well 
 known for their indefatigable zeal and industrious 
 habits. By taking things coolly and calmly, and 
 making a steady progress, they have, within an 
 incredible short period, raised Glasgow to that 
 magnificence and importance as to be fit for the 
 metropolis of the proudest kingdom on earth. 
 The buildings, private and public, are quite as 
 good as in London ; they are all built of stone, 
 and the shops are very magnificent, and the streets 
 are very well paved, but not quite so well lighted 
 as London or Liverpool. The street called Tron- 
 gate, intersects the whole city from east to west, 
 is of considerable length, and it affords a very 
 
432 
 
 interesting piece of street scenery, and is the 
 noblest thing of the kind. 
 
 We went the same day (Monday) with Mr. 
 Wright to see a pottery belonging to Messrs. 
 
 ; it is a large establishment, and the 
 
 various processes in making this necessary article 
 of domestic use are very pretty and simple. 
 
 It took us nearly two hours to go over the 
 whole establishment, and we were so much 
 pleased with it, that we think our countrymen 
 would like to know how the articles, which they 
 daily make use of, are made, we therefore copy 
 a description of it from the Saturday Magazine 
 for the year 1836, which we think is much better 
 than any we could give. Before which, however, 
 we have to observe, that the material of which 
 pottery or porcelain is made, is composed of two 
 things, clay and flint ; a proper quantity of these 
 are well mixed together, and prepared in a pit 
 properly built. Great care is taken in removing 
 impurities — even a grain of sand is carefully 
 guarded against — and it has to go through two or 
 three processes before it is fit for use. 
 
 In the quotation we have omitted a sentence, 
 in which reference is made to the wood-cut in the 
 work. 
 
 " The clay being prepared, the potter forms it 
 into various articles by throwing, pressing, or 
 casting. Throwing is only employed in the case of 
 circular vessels, and the operation is performed 
 
433 
 
 " by means of a potter's lathe. The operator^ 
 " placing a lump of clay on the revolving wheel 
 ^' before him, moulds it into the required form 
 
 with his hands ; and in order to ensure an 
 
 uniformity in the size and curves of a series 
 ^' of vessels^ he employs hollow moulds and thin 
 
 pieces of wood^ whose edges are cut in different 
 
 curves^ as modelling tools. 
 
 " The vessel being now rudely formed into 
 something like the required shape, is removed 
 from the lathe, and set aside to dry. As soon 
 as it has become sufficiently dry for the pur- 
 pose, when it is in what is called its green state, 
 
 " it is removed to the turning-lathe ; here it is 
 turned, by means of iron tools, into a more 
 
 " correct form, and its surface is burnished with 
 a smooth steel instrument. In this part of the 
 
 ^* process the handles and ornaments are fixed on ; 
 the parts on which they are to be fixed are pre- 
 
 " viously wetted, and clay reduced to a thin con- 
 sistence and called slip, is employed for the 
 purpose of, as it were, glueing them on. They 
 
 " are now removed to a drying-stove, or oven, 
 which is kept at a temperature varying from 
 eighty to ninety degrees of Fahrenheit's ther- 
 mometer, and when removed from thence they 
 
 " are rubbed over with a whisp of tow to smooth 
 any inequalities. 
 
 Another process is pressing, by which mode 
 all oval vessels are formed. The mould into 
 
 V 
 
434 
 
 ^' which they are pressed is made of plaster of 
 Paris, generally in several pieces, so that the 
 " different parts of the vessel, when removed from 
 the mould, have to be united by means of pres- 
 " sure, the edges being first moistened with slip. 
 The third method of producing form is by 
 casting ; the clay, in this case, is made into the 
 consistence of cream^ and poured into a plaster 
 mould, previously dried. After remaining in 
 the mould a certain time, the liquid clay is 
 " poured off. That part, however, which is in 
 " contact with the dry mould, has had so much 
 " of its moisture absorbed by the plaster, that it 
 is too thick to flow, and remains in the mould, 
 " forming a thin coating on the inside, in the 
 form of the article required. The mould, and 
 its contents, are removed to a stove at a gentle 
 heat, and as the clay loses its moisture, it be- 
 comes firmer, and shrinks a little, so as to be 
 easily removable. 
 
 The ware, now dry and hard, is fit for the 
 " furnace, and is called, in this state, biscuit. 
 
 The kiln, or furnace, in which the biscuit has 
 " to be baked, is a building with a cylindrical 
 " cavity and a flattish dome ; the vessels are 
 " placed in cases or saggers. These are formed 
 of baked clay, and protect the Vvare from the 
 direct action of the flames of the furnace ; but 
 they are not employed in baking large common 
 red v/are. 
 
435 
 
 After passing through the furnace^ the vessels 
 are in a fit state to receive the printed designs 
 with which most of our earthenware is orna- 
 mented. The designs^ which are engraved on 
 copper-plates^ are printed at a rolling-press in 
 the usual manner ; but the paper on which they 
 are printed is previously rubbed over with soft 
 soap. 
 
 The colour employed is ground up with some 
 colourless earthy matter, and with linseed oil. 
 After the design is printed, the face of it is laid 
 
 ^' on the porous vessel, and pressed closely to it ; 
 the consequence is, that the colouring matter is 
 
 " absorbed, and when the paper is removed and 
 the surface wiped with a wet sponge, the design 
 appears distinctly on the surface of the pottery. 
 
 Almost every description of pottery is glazed. 
 The glaze consists of any substance which will 
 melt at a lower degree of heat than the vessel 
 itself, and forms a kind of enamel ; the use of 
 the glaze is to remedy the inconvenience of the 
 porous nature of the baked clay. The glaze, 
 except when salt is used, is formed into a liquid 
 of the consistence of cream ; into this the vessel 
 is dipped, and again subjected to the heat of 
 the furnace. 
 
 Many substances have been employed as 
 glazes ; some very imperfectly answering the 
 end proposed, and others extremely noxious in 
 
436 
 
 their use. The old method of glazmg common 
 ware, was by means of salt, which, w^hen thrown 
 into the heated furnace, filled it with a vapour ; 
 as this condensed, it settled on the vessels, and 
 
 " and formed, if not a very excellent, at least a 
 very wholesome covering. 
 
 Unfortunately, the glaze most usually em- 
 ployed for common ware, is composed of li- 
 tharge, a preparation of lead, which melts into a 
 kind of glass at a certain heat. This is dan- 
 gerous in two ways ; first, to the workmen, 
 for the fumes are highly deleterious ; and se- 
 condly, to those who use the vessel in cookery, 
 as the glaze is easily dissolved by acids, parti- 
 cularly vinegar, which converts a part of it into 
 sugar of lead, a very virulent poison. The 
 beautiful gloss formed by litharge, and the low 
 
 " heat at which it melts, are the chief causes of 
 
 " its being commonly used. 
 
 The cause of the cracking of the glaze is, that 
 the glaze itself, and the clay of which it is 
 formed, expand and contract in different de- 
 grees, by the alternations of heat and cold. 
 
 There is one description of common earthen- 
 ware, called stoneware, which possesses many 
 
 " valuable properties ; it is extremely hard and 
 strong, and although not glazed, it is not porous, 
 and has a tolerably well polished surface. In 
 spite, however, of these excellent qualities, it is 
 
437 
 
 seldom employed in the manufacture of any 
 other articles than pitchers, and blacking and 
 " soda-water bottles/^ 
 
 In another establishment, at a short distance 
 from the pottery, we saw calico printing, and w^e 
 admired it very much. We first saw white pieces 
 of muslin, passed under an engraven copper 
 roller which printed the ground pattern. Oil 
 colour is used for the roller, and for block print- 
 ing; when the piece w^as finished here, it was 
 removed to a table, and spread even on the sur- 
 face, and was printed with wooden blocks, having 
 different devices on one side, and filled with 
 colour ; this side of the block was placed upon 
 the muslin, and a quick but gentle blow of a 
 hammer was given to it, which transferred the 
 colour from the block to the muslin ; by this 
 process the whole piece is first printed with one 
 sort of colour, and, if there be a variety, it is done 
 in the same way one after another. We then saw 
 them making the printing blocks. The patterns 
 are obtained by letting in thin strips of copper 
 into the wood, the surface of which was smoothly 
 planed. 
 
 There were in the room several of these 
 pattern makers ; they were all seated near 
 tables, and were proceeding with their work with 
 an astonishing rapidity. Their tools were very 
 finely made ; and much care is required in making 
 the patterns, as the edges of the minute pieces 
 
438 
 
 of copper^ of which there niay^ perhaps, be up- 
 wards of a hundred in one blocks ought to be all 
 level and even ; the least projection will ob- 
 struct a proper impression on the calico. The 
 designs are first painted on paper for the 
 guidance of the pattern maker ; and this depart- 
 ment of the manufacture is exceedingly pretty. 
 
 We were shown some of the old blocks, in 
 w^hich the designs were carved; it must have 
 been a very tedious and expensive work, and the 
 designs could not be obtained to such perfection 
 as in the present way ; so that it is a very great 
 saving, and a decided improvement in the art. 
 
 On the 17th, we went to see Mr. Napier, the 
 engineer, but he was not in the foundery ; however 
 his foreman showed us all round his manufactory, 
 which is called the Vulcan Foundery. It is an 
 extensive establishment. Mr. Napier makes, on 
 an average^ about 3000 horse power of engines 
 annually. We saw a very large piece of casting ; 
 it was a foundation plate and condenser in one 
 piece, and the whole weighed about 37 tons; and 
 to show how difficult a task it is to cast such a 
 piece^ we were told that the entire cost of it was 
 £700 ; and the whole would have been lost had 
 there been a shght negligence. 
 
 In the several buildings there are all kinds of 
 machines for turning, cutting, and planing the va- 
 rious parts of the engine. At a short distance 
 from this is a smaller foundery also belonging to 
 
439 
 
 Napier^ and close to it a building yard^ in which 
 an iron steamer was buildings for the Honourable 
 East India Company, for the purpose of sending 
 her to India. She was only temporarily put to- 
 gether, in order to be taken to pieces. Six cap - 
 tains of the Royal Navy were studying steam 
 machinery under Mr. Napier at the time, and we 
 think that their services will be of much value 
 to the Government. 
 
 Our friend, Mr. Wright, took us to see a large 
 manufactory of carpets in the afternoon ; the esta- 
 blishment was very large, as 500 persons were 
 here employed ; and the works were carried on in 
 an extensive building four stories high. We first 
 entered the ground floor; and never were we 
 more surprised than at this place. We found that 
 there were various wheels, levers, and complicated 
 machines moving at a rapid rate, large quantities 
 of wool were strewed about, and a great many 
 women and children running about from one place 
 to another. 
 
 This was the room in which the wool was 
 spun by machinery, which is so very compli- 
 cated, and of such arrangement that it would 
 require a thorough knowledge of engineering to 
 give a description of it, and it would therefore be 
 vain for us to attempt it. We can only say that 
 we saw wool, in its coarsest state, put succes- 
 sively three times into the spinning-machines, 
 which cleared it from dust and impurities ; and 
 
440 
 
 it was then converted into yam for weaving the 
 carpet. The yarn is made by stretching and 
 twisting the wool on a number of reels^ which are 
 put into motion by the engine, and revolve at a 
 most rapid rate. This process is repeated accord- 
 ing to the degree of fineness to which the yarn 
 is to be made. 
 
 The yarn is then dipped into coloured liquid 
 prepared for the purpose ; this is called dying, 
 and then it is fit for the loom. 
 
 There were in the upper rooms about 150 
 looms, which are all worked with manual labour, 
 and not with engine ; and we saw them making a 
 great many sorts of beautiful carpets, varying in 
 price from Is. 6d. to 10s. a yard. We also saw here 
 some very fine specimens of Edinburgh carpet, 
 which is a patented article. The chief beauty of 
 it was the effect of light and shade that is worked 
 in flowers which appeared very elegant. 
 
 We would here wish to state that we saw a 
 silk spinning mill, and two or three cotton manu- 
 factories, all of which were very large, and the 
 process of spinning was nearly the same as in the 
 Carpet weaving establishment; but the looms 
 were worked with steam; and piece goods of 
 every sort, silk as well as cotton, are made at Glas- 
 gow. In one of the manufactories the owner has 
 invented a loom which weaves four pieces at 
 once, instead of only one, as is the case at present, 
 so that a great quantity of labour is saved ; and 
 
441 
 
 he told us that he will be able^ when this loom 
 will be extensively employed^ to sell piece goods 
 manufactured by it much cheaper than any hi- 
 therto offered to the public. We were quite con- 
 vinced of it^ as we saw that one person attended 
 two looms, and which wove only two pieces, and 
 this loom, which does four times as much work, 
 requires only one person to manage it ; half the 
 labour is therefore saved. 
 
 In all the mills, women and children are prin- 
 cipally employed ; but their appearance excited 
 our compassion, as we noticed almost all that 
 were thus employed, were meagre and pale looking 
 creatures, and their health is very soon injured 
 from the heat and impure atmosphere of the 
 rooms in which they work; however, on the other 
 hand, we wondered how occupations could be 
 found for the thousands of beings, and how could 
 they support themselves had it not been for these 
 establishments. 
 
 Our friend, Mr. Wright, took us to see the 
 chemical establishment of Charles Tennant and 
 Co., it covers an area of about 11 acres within its 
 walls, and the buildings, in which the works are 
 carried on are very numerous and of considerable 
 dimensions. They manufacture here sulphuric 
 acid, bleaching powder, soda, and soap ; we were 
 told that 600 tons of coals were weekly consumed 
 here. It was established in the year 1803, and is 
 said to be the largest and most extensive chemical 
 
442 
 
 works in Europe. In one room we saw enormous 
 quantities of soap, and in others soda and the 
 bleaching powder. 
 
 A very large circular chimney was to be erected, 
 which we were told would be upwards of 400 feet 
 high ; the fire-places, furnaces, and retorts were 
 upwards of one hundred in number, and the 
 works are very well conducted. On the 19th we 
 had the pleasure of seeing Mr. Napier, who showed 
 us very great kindness, and nearly devoted the 
 whole of that day to us. We saw the improved 
 cotton mill we have spoken of through his kindness, 
 and he took us to the Bridewell, the prison for 
 criminal convicts, and we saw here a great number 
 of male and female prisoners ; many of them were 
 employed on hard work, the females were working 
 with a large wheel used for spinning cotton and 
 wool ; it appeared to us to be very hard work ; the 
 men were compelled to work at that which they 
 could best perform, or, in other words, to manu- 
 facture articles of their trade, there were tailors, 
 shoe makers, carpenters, weavers, and a great 
 many others busily employed, among them we saw 
 one who was making beautiful wheels and other 
 things for clock work, and we much regretted to 
 see a man there, who could by industry gain a decent 
 livelihood thus disgrace himself by committing 
 crimes and plunge himself into misfortune and 
 misery. 
 
 We afterwards saw the Andersonian Museum, 
 
443 
 
 where a great many curious things are very well 
 arranged in two rooms. Before we left Glasgow, 
 we spent a very pleasant evening with Mr. Napier, 
 who greatly obliged us with politeness and atten- 
 tion. 
 
 England and Scotland abounds with institutions 
 charitable and educational^ and we have noticed 
 some of them in the preceding pages, but we 
 were most delighted with the Asylum for the 
 Blind, which we inspected in company with our 
 friend, Mr. Wright ; we were first shown into a 
 room where poor blind females of different ages 
 were seated on benches, which were placed against 
 the wall, and all of them busily employed in knit- 
 ting stockings, doing needle-work, and preparing 
 household linen. A lady who was our guide then 
 called one of them, and bade her read a Bible 
 which lay on a table in the midst of the room ; 
 when it was open we saw that it was different from 
 common printing ; the leaves were printed not 
 with ink and common type, but with Roman 
 capitals in relief, that is, the letters were raised 
 from the surface of the paper so as to make them 
 readable by the touch, and we were quite asto- 
 nished to see the girl placing her finger upon 
 the letter, and by feeling read a few lines with 
 great ease, but what surprised us the most was the 
 dexterity with which she pointed out places and 
 towns on a map, which is constructed on the same 
 principle ; it was a board on which the boundary 
 
444 
 
 of different places and the courses of rivers were 
 delineated by thin wire, and pin-heads were placed 
 for cities and towns. We confess that we could 
 not point out places quite so readily, and we could 
 not help thinking what a blessing it must be to 
 these unfortunate beings, suffering under severe 
 privations, thus to be able to read and beguile 
 their hours of pain and affliction. They are also 
 taught music, which is also printed in embossed 
 types, and we were told that they learn very 
 quickly, and their memory (generally speaking) 
 is very good. 
 
 The types were invented by Mr. John Alston, 
 the treasurer of this asylum, for the instruction of 
 the blind, and we think that he has immortalized 
 himself by doing this act, calculated to alleviate 
 the sufferings of thousands of human beings, by 
 finding them intellectual occupation, who otherwise 
 might end their days in misery and ignorance. In 
 another part of the building we saw" a great many 
 blind young men who were making baskets, ham- 
 pers, shoes, &c., with such business-like style, that 
 they seemed to be for the moment insensible of 
 their privation, and seemed to be very cheerful 
 and perfectly reconciled to their lot : we saw some 
 manufacturing rugs, door-mats, and weaving a sort 
 of coarse cloth with looms. They are fed, clothed, 
 and taught all this, in the establishment, so that 
 when perfect in their crafty they are enabled to 
 obtain a livelihood. 
 
445 
 
 Among all the inmates, we noticed a person who 
 was deaf, dumb, and blind ; she is an object of 
 great sympathy, yet she seemed to be happy in 
 the situation that she was placed in; she was 
 cheerfully working away with a small spinning- 
 wheel. She was also taught to read and write and 
 communicate her wishes by certain signs. Our 
 guide pressed her fingers, shoulders, and the palm 
 of her hand, which she informed us was asking 
 how she was, and the poor creature by similar 
 means said she was very well.'^ There are 
 schools for the blind in all principal towns of 
 England and Scotland, and these benevolent in- 
 stitutions do the people of Great Britain a great 
 credit. We also heard them play a tune on an 
 organ in a room which was appropriated to divine 
 service. Voluntary contributions are received on 
 the premises, for which purpose boxes are placed 
 in two or three places, and we think every person 
 who can spare even a small sum ought to contri- 
 bute towards the maintenance of this humane and 
 charitable purpose. We also saw extensive chrystal 
 works belonging to Mr. Watson, of Glasgow, and 
 we here witnessed the method of making wine- 
 glasses, tumblers, and goblets. In the midst of a 
 large building was a circular furnace, having about 
 five or six fire places, and a great many people 
 were working here the various processes ; the pro- 
 cesses a glass undergoes before it is fit for sale are 
 
446 
 
 very pleasing, and well worth seeing. We cannot 
 give a proper account of a thing quite new to us, 
 and which we never saw again. We were told that 
 the materials of which glass is formed are sand, 
 saltpetre, red lead, and manganese. In another 
 room we saw them cutting and polishing various 
 domestic articles, such as tumblers, glasses, &c. 
 
 We also paid a visit to the warehouse of Win- 
 gate and Sons, where we saw some very fine 
 specimens of needle-work, both English and 
 French, and an enormous quantity of shawls, silk 
 handkerchiefs, and Scottish plaids. The warehouse 
 of Campbell and Co. is very large, and contains an 
 incredible quantity of cotton piece goods of every 
 description, and hosiery, but we were surprised to 
 find that the prices of the piece goods which we 
 expected must be cheaper than at Bombay, was, 
 on the contrary dearer than at that place. This 
 inconsistency can be only accounted for by sup- 
 posing the market at that place to be always over- 
 loaded with stock. 
 
 On the 2 1 st of November we went to Greenock 
 in a fine steamer called the Admiral, for the pur- 
 pose of seeing the vessel that was building by 
 Messrs. Scott, Sinclair & Co., for the Royal West 
 Indian Mail Company. Greenock is situated at 
 the mouth of the Clyde, about twenty-four miles 
 from Glasgow. Here are docks, building yards, 
 and steam-engine manufactories. We saw our 
 
447 
 
 friend Captain Kincaid^ who built the ship John 
 Fleming here ; he was kind enough to take us 
 over to the dock-yard, and we saw the steamer 
 that we were anxious about^ she was in frame^ all 
 her timbers were of good sound oak. This vessel 
 was building for the West India Mails ; we could 
 not see her plan in consequence of the absence of 
 Mr. Scott from the yard. We then accompanied 
 our friend to his house^ which was pleasantly 
 situated a little way beyond Greenock. The town 
 is very dirty and extremely irregular, and none 
 but those immediately connected with the dock- 
 yards, shipping, and the manufactories reside 
 there. We returned to Glasgow the same evening. 
 
 There is indeed so much to be seen at Glasgow 
 that one could very well spend five or six weeks 
 there ; but as we could not spare much time we 
 took our departure on the morning of the 25th, 
 highly delighted with all we saw, and equally 
 grateful to all who showed us attention and hos- 
 pitality ; it is but justice to say that the gentle- 
 men belonging to the various manufactories that 
 we inspected showed us much politeness, and 
 took a delight in giving us all the information we 
 required of them without the least reserve. It is 
 a noble feeling among the English and Scottish 
 people, they are always kind, hospitable, free and 
 full of politeness and affability, and ever ready to 
 oblige those who come from a distant clime to 
 
448 
 
 seek after knowledge in their truly fine and un- 
 equalled country. 
 
 We left Glasgow at twelve o^clock by the 
 Achilles/' the same vessel that brought us from 
 Liverpool, and after a detention of a quarter of an 
 hour arrived at Liverpool at eleven o'clock next 
 morning. 
 
 On the morning of the 1st of December we left 
 Liverpool by the railway at eight in the morning, 
 and after waiting half an hour at Birmingham^ 
 reached the station at Euston Square, London, at 
 half-past six in the evening without feeling the 
 slightest fatigue. Thus terminated our tour through 
 the country, which we shall always recollect with 
 much pleasure when in India. 
 
 We here annex a tabular form containing 
 the distance that we travelled in the whole in dif- 
 ferent conveyances, together with the charges 
 of passage-money, and the actual time that we 
 took in moving from one place to another, in order 
 to show our countrymen at one glance the facility 
 of travelling which exists in England ; we shall 
 therefore arrange the table in the same order that 
 we accomplished the tour : thus, 
 
449 
 
 Names of Places. 
 
 Distance in 
 Miles. 
 
 What 
 Conveyance. 
 
 Time 
 in hours. 
 
 rH ^ 
 
 C fcJO 
 
 From London to Southampton 
 
 77 
 
 Railroad. 
 
 3 
 
 20 
 
 From Southampton to Ports - 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 16 
 
 Coach. 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 From Portsmouth to Plymouth 
 
 130 
 
 Steamer. 
 
 24 
 
 25 
 
 From Plymouth to Bristol 
 
 125 
 
 Coach. 
 
 15 
 
 50 
 
 From Bristol to Gloucester 
 
 35 
 
 Coach. 
 
 34 
 
 14 
 
 From Gloucester to Birmingham 
 
 54 
 
 Railroad and 
 
 
 
 
 
 Coach. 
 
 4 
 
 15 
 
 From Birmingham to Liverpool 
 
 97 
 
 Railroad. 
 
 
 23 
 
 From Liverpool to Glasgow 
 
 250 
 
 Steamer. 
 
 21 
 
 15 
 
 From Glasgow to Liverpool 
 
 250 
 
 Steamer. 
 
 22 
 
 15 
 
 From Liverpool to London 
 
 206 
 
 Railroad. 
 
 10 
 
 53 
 
 Total . 
 
 1240 
 
 
 109 
 
 236 
 
 By examining the total number of miles, shil- 
 lings, and hours, it will be seen that in three days 
 and eleven hours we travelled 1,240 miles by three 
 different sorts of conveyances, on an average a 
 - little more than 2^d. per mile, and at the rate of 
 about eleven miles and one-third per hour. This 
 facility and cheapness no country can boast of 
 except England, and no people could effect it ex- 
 cept Englishmen. 
 
 What will our countrymen say, when we tell 
 them that in England a person might leave Lon- 
 don by the railway for Birmingham, a distance 
 exceeding by twenty miles that between Bom- 
 bay and Poona, and after taking his dinner, and 
 seeing a friend or two at that place, comfortably 
 
450 
 
 return home to enjoy his cup of tea in the bosom 
 of his family the same evening. It would also 
 seem extravagant to them when we say, that a re- 
 sident of London can accept an invitation to take 
 tea at a friend^s at Liverpool on a Sunday evening, 
 he may leave town for the latter place in the 
 morning, enjoy the company of his friends there 
 for four hours^ and by seating himself in a railway 
 carriage he would have his breakfast at home next 
 morning and attend his duty. In that time he 
 will have gone over four hundred and twelve miles 
 of ground, one hundred miles more than twice the 
 distance between Bombay and Surat ! ! ! 
 
 No country, therefore, can be considered to pos- 
 sess so much talent^ and means calculated to in- 
 crease and extend commerce, and the physical 
 comforts of its inhabitants, as Great Britain. 
 Surely it is a great country ; nay, the greatest on 
 earth at the present period. 
 
451 
 
 CHAPTER XXXII. 
 
 CUSTOMS, MANNERS, EDUCATION, &C. 
 
 We have during our visit to England had an 
 opportunity of seeing a good deal of Enghsh 
 society of several sorts, and if any of our observa - 
 tions upon manners §ind customs so dissimilar to 
 our own should appear to be of a personal nature, 
 we would here wish to say it is far from our inten- 
 tions ; as our only object is to convey to our 
 countrymen such things as appeared singular to us, 
 and we should consider ourselves very ungrateful 
 and undeserving, received as we have been into 
 families with perfect confidence, if we violated 
 that confidence by making any remarks, disre- 
 spectful to our good and kind friends. 
 
 Our customs of having our food prepared by 
 one of our own sect, prevented us from accept- 
 ing very many kind invitations, it has only been 
 at the houses of such of our friends who have 
 allowed our servants to occupy their kitchens 
 in preparing our meals for us, that we have been 
 
452 
 
 able to spend the day with them; we have however 
 had the honour to spend several evenings at the 
 house of our kind and worthy patron Sir Charles 
 Forbes in Fitzroy Square, and here we would beg 
 to express how deeply we feel the numerous kind 
 acts of friendship that we have received from him 
 and all the members of the family. We were from 
 youth told or rather taught to regard him as a 
 most attached friend to the natives of Bombay^ 
 and more particularly so to our own family, and it 
 has been our good fortune to know by our visit to 
 England that his kindness and zeal for the natives 
 of the east ivas not fully communicated to us, as toe 
 found and saw him much more devoted to their 
 cause than the idea that was conveyed to us of 
 him by ivords. For our own selves whenever we 
 wanted advice he kindly gave it, whenever we 
 asked for information it was immediately afforded 
 us, and whilst life and reason continue with us, 
 we shall recollect him and all his acts of patronage, 
 friendship and kindness. At Sir Charleses we often 
 met our good and warm friend Mr. John Forbes, 
 and how shall we tell our grief, that during 
 our stay in England, he was taken away from 
 earth ? Death laid his cold hand upon him and 
 his heart ceased to beat, and oh ! what a heart 
 was that ! ! ! yes, we felt that we had indeed lost a 
 friend. We knew that our countrymen were by his 
 death deprived of one of their warmest advocates, 
 and England, of one of her noblest citizens. In 
 
453 
 
 private life he was a moral^ virtuous^ polite and 
 philanthropic man^ indeed he must be considered 
 as it were a citizen of the world for he loved every 
 human being. We lament that a father should be 
 deprived of a son who was a perfect model of filial 
 duty. We feel sorrow that he should have been 
 taken away from his wife and his dear young 
 children. As private individuals, we deeply regret 
 losing a kind personal friend. But as Parsees we 
 grieved ! we grieved ! ! ! most deeply, that so 
 honest, so warm hearted^ so talented, so distin- 
 guished a man should be taken away from a sphere 
 were with his energies, and his abilities, he might 
 have made known to the world the estimation in 
 which he, from his knowledge, held many of the 
 natives of Bombay particularly ^ and of India gene- 
 rally. God's will, however, we must not repine 
 at, and we beg and pray of Him who made us to 
 shower down blessings on the worthy father of our 
 lamented friend and his family ; may health and 
 peace attend them. And that his children may 
 tread in the steps of their father and grandfather 
 is our fervent prayer. 
 
 We also met at Sir Charles Forbes's, Mont- 
 gomery Martin Esq., a gentleman who has by his 
 writings and by his exertions represented the 
 people of India in a more favourable light than 
 any previous writers, who from their limited 
 knowledge of the customs and manners of the 
 people of India, published statements completely 
 
454 
 
 at variance with facts. They wrote no doubt 
 what they were told, and what they beheved to be 
 true, hke a modern writer upon Bombay, who, in 
 describing the sect to which we belong, has in her 
 volume totally misrepresented from want of know- 
 ing better the Parsees and Parsee customs. She 
 seems to write from her own knowledge, and yet 
 half what she says about Parsees is inaccurate ; 
 she is made to say, — that when houses are burning 
 in Bombay the Parsees look quietly on, and do 
 not make the slightest endeavour to check the 
 progress of the flames in consequence of their re- 
 ligious scruples. Now this is notoriously at vari- 
 ance with the fact, as in many cases Parsees have 
 been the most instrumental, and useful in putting 
 out fires when they have occurred. We can assert 
 this without the fear of contradiction for we have 
 seen Parsees running to the scenes of destruction 
 when they unfortunately happen. A fire took 
 place a few years since at the residence of 
 one of our family, and the inmates [all Parsees) 
 were the very first who endeavoured to overpower 
 the destructiA^e element. It is true that we pay 
 a certain religious reverence to fire, but not so 
 much, as to suffer a house to be burnt to the 
 ground rather than extinguish it. 
 
 It is not necessary to enumerate dl the erro- 
 neous statements published by many writers, and 
 our knowledge of the English character forbids 
 our attributing wilful misrepresentation to any ; yet 
 
455 
 
 we cannot help regretting that imperfect and in- 
 accurate accounts should have ever appeared be- 
 fore the British public^ of the habits and customs 
 of a class of people^ who, it has been acknow- 
 ledged, are the foremost in doing good^ by sup- 
 porting charitable institutions, &c, &c.^ and who, 
 moreover^ are the best and most loyally attached 
 subjects of the British crown. 
 
 Mr. Martin has written much for India, and 
 he has put the English people in possession of 
 the first history of all the British coloniesthat was 
 ever published ; and all his observations in that 
 work have been founded upon facts and official 
 documents. We have felt proud in knowing a 
 man who has written so much and so ivell upon 
 our native country; and we think and believe him 
 to be a true friend both to England and India, 
 who inculcates the principles of love, affection, 
 and friendship between the people of both coun- 
 tries, as he invariably does. 
 
 We will now tell how we have been received and 
 treated at the house of an intimate acquaintance ; 
 upon entering the room^ the master and mistress 
 and all the family rise to receive you, and offer 
 you the seats of honour, which at the season of 
 the year when fires are required, are arm-chairs 
 next the fire. And we would prepare such of our 
 countrymen as may visit England, to expect a 
 hearty welcome, and a friendly shaking of the 
 hands, much courtesy, and great kindness from all 
 
456 
 
 with whom they may become intimate. Males 
 and females, old and young, all strive in their re- 
 spective ways to do something to make you pleased 
 and happy, or, to use their own strictly English 
 word, comfortable* You have only to express that 
 you like this thing or dislike that, and if it is in 
 their power, your wishes and views will be met. 
 
 One example of domestic society into which 
 we were most familiarly admitted, will convey 
 some idea of how English families in the middle 
 classes of society live. This gentleman is a 
 widower, and has been so for nearly two years. 
 He has seven daughters, the eldest sixteen, and 
 the youngest two ; so that there are about two 
 years difference between each. Six out of the 
 seven go as weekly boarders to a school in the 
 neighbourhood, and come home on Saturday at 
 12 o^clock, returning to school on Monday, at 
 nine in the morning. They are taught reading, 
 spelling, grammar, geography, and history ; and 
 they have weekly to repeat answers to questions 
 on miscellaneous subjects connected with useful 
 knowledge. A French lady resides in the house, 
 and they are all taught the French language. A 
 master teaches them writing and arithmetic, and 
 music is taught by a male and a female teacher. 
 They rise at school at seven, breakfast at eight, 
 dine at one, and have an evening meal at six. We 
 visited their school with their father It was 
 their dancing day ; all his six children, and about 
 
457 
 
 twenty others were being taught to dance^ to 
 walk, and to make a curtsy; they w^ere in- 
 structed, by their dancing master^ how to enter a 
 room, how to carry their heads erect, and how 
 gracefully to rise up from, and to take their places 
 in, their seats. It was to us very gratifying to 
 see these little innocent happy beings, who were 
 most of them to become mothers and heads of 
 families, thus taught how to carry themselves so 
 as to appear like genteel, well-bred young women. 
 At Midsummer, in June, and July, and at Christ- 
 mas, in December and January, they have holi- 
 days, and go home for six weeks each time ; and 
 it was then that, as a frequent visitor, we became 
 acquainted with their every day habits and cus- 
 toms. 
 
 Taking the summer as the period we would de- 
 scribe : they rise at seven, and take a little walk 
 in their flower-garden, and sit down to breakfast 
 at eight. Their breakfast would consist of coffee, 
 bread and butter, and toasted bread, some dried 
 fish, cold meat, consisting of ham or tongue, 
 and sometimes radishes or water cresses. Some 
 of them would then practice music upon the 
 piano, some would draw houses, trees, &c., 
 some would mend their clothes, some would work 
 raised figures, with wool, or silk, on canvas, or 
 net silk purses, or make little fancy articles for 
 presents to their friends, or perhaps some one 
 would read aloud an amusing book, or perchance 
 
 X 
 
458 
 
 one would sing a song. This would be done until 
 twelve or one o'clock, when they would liave a 
 luncheon of biscuit or cake with a little fruit and 
 water. And then they would take off their morn- 
 ing frocks, usually made of a neat printed cotton, 
 and put on their out door walking dresses of a fine 
 muslin made of wool, and covered with flowers or 
 checks. Straw-plaited bonnets with pretty ribbon 
 and a little cape to cover their shoulders, or a 
 thin silk handkerchief round their throats arid 
 necks. They would then walk and make calls 
 until four o^clock, when they dined. And as this 
 family professed to live in a plain w^ay, they w^ould 
 have either a joint of roast or boiled lamb or 
 mutton or beef, or, perhaps, fowls and a ham, or 
 ducks. Generally two or three sorts of boiled 
 vegetables, potatoes, cabbage, cauliflower, peas, or 
 asparagus ; and then would have puddings or pies 
 made from fruits, currants, gooseberries, cherries, 
 or raspberries, and at other times from apples, with 
 boiled or baked custard made from eggs, milk, 
 and spice ; and lastly, bread and cheese. Beer, 
 water, or wine would be drank whilst at dinner ; 
 and after that fruits, the production of England, 
 apples, pears, plums, peaches, apricots, nectarines, 
 grapes, cherries, currants, strawberries, raspberries, 
 gooseberries, such as happened to be in season, 
 with wine, would be placed upon the table, which 
 is called the dessert. They then either walk 
 again, or resume their morning occupations, or 
 
459 
 
 sometimes play at chess or draughts or cards^ or, 
 perhaps, write letters. At about eight, either tea 
 or coffee, and cakes or toasted bread or bread and 
 butter are partaken of, and sometimes they take 
 a little light pastry and fruit, with a little wine 
 and water before they go to bed. The younger 
 ones to go to bed about eight, and the three elder, 
 sixteen, twelve, and ten years of age, sit up until 
 after ten. 
 
 This is a only a quiet picture of every day life 
 in a family. The four eldest daughters write, 
 and understand arithmetic. They play tunes 
 upon the piano, and talk reasonably upon almost 
 everything. One about four and a half years old, 
 repeated perfectly a long piece of poetry, called 
 Pope^s Universal Prayer ; and one, six years old, 
 repeated a great many poems, and could spell 
 every word we asked her, and knew the multi- 
 plication table. 
 
 We have thus given the particulars of the 
 acquirements and education of young females in 
 England, in order to induce mothers in India^ the 
 wives of natives, to establish some such system to 
 educate their children. Why should they not 
 have boarding-schools conducted as the English 
 ones, always of course having female teachers 
 therein instead of males. For oh ! if they could 
 but know the host of amusements and recreations 
 that by education are afforded to females. They 
 can read in two languages generally, and how 
 
460 
 
 many hours does not this pass happily away. It 
 teaches them to think rightly and well upon most 
 subjects. And then, drawing; how delightful is 
 it, if you see a place^ that you are enabled to sketch 
 it upon paper, and to copy flowers and trees, and 
 even people. Music, too, how soothing! how 
 cheering ! how enlivening ! how pleasant ! for a 
 wife to be enabled to play to her husband, to her 
 children, and to sing to solace them. And then 
 to write to those when circumstances call them far 
 away ; to express to them at a distance the feel- 
 ings which those at home bear to them, and to be 
 able, though thousands of miles distant, to write to 
 tell of the manners and customs of those among 
 whom you are journeying. Oh ! our dear coun- 
 trymen, let us urge you, let vis implore you to add 
 to the happiness of your daughters by giving all 
 of them education. The education of boys in 
 England, sons of the middle and upper classes, 
 are at schools, where Latin, Greek, French and 
 German is taught, in addition to English, and the 
 mathematics are strongly enforced as a leading 
 oranch. 
 
 It is thought a public education is much the best 
 for boys, as it gives them a spirit of competition, 
 and a school is quite the world in miniature. Many 
 noblemen and gentlemen have a private tutor in 
 their houses for their sons ; but it has been found 
 that young men privately educated have not gene- 
 rally been so tolerated as those brought up at a 
 school. Very many private families have a go- 
 
461 
 
 verness in their houses to teach their daughters^ 
 and have masters to attend for writings music^ 
 singing, French and Itahan. But this of course 
 costs much money, and can only be done by those 
 who have first-rate incomes. The children of per- 
 sons with small incomes attend as day scholars at 
 schools where for about £4, a year they get a 
 good plain education. For the children of the 
 poor of both sexes, there is scarcely a parish in 
 England, but what there are schools kept up by 
 subscriptions among the middle and upper classes 
 of society, and where poor children are taught 
 reading, writing, and arithmetic, and the girls 
 plain work ; and in addition to this there are Sun- 
 day schools for those poor children who are 
 obliged to work for their livings on the other 
 days; and where charitable people give their 
 money to build school-rooms and also attend 
 themselves, both males and females, to instruct 
 the children of the humbler classes. 
 
 Yet notwithstanding these facilities for obtain- 
 ing education, a large number of poor people in 
 England do not send their children to any school ; 
 these people will have much to answer for. The 
 man and woman who can read and write, often 
 have a chance to better their condition by obtain- 
 ing an easier employment. And besides, how 
 much happier must that poor working man and 
 woman be, who, when their bodies are worn out 
 with toil and fatigue, can take up some book and 
 
462 
 
 amuse their minds by reading. We hope to see 
 schools for the poor extend all over India^ and 
 we should be most happy if every native of India 
 could read. We should state that to a great number 
 of persons in the middle and higher classes of 
 society^ the style of living before alluded to, does 
 not at all apply ; they have soups^ fish and game 
 every day^ and they almost always have six or 
 eight dishes of different meats or poultry, and 
 this would lead us to the remark of the great 
 length of time that is every day occupied at meals 
 by the English people ; they usually spend half 
 an hour at breakfast, nearly two hours at dinner, 
 and half an hour to their afternoon meal, and fre- 
 quently more than half an hour at supper. Now 
 this consumes nearly a quarter of their time, and 
 does appear to us to be a very great waste of that 
 invaluable com^modity. 
 
 We thus have described the manners of society 
 and the education of children in England, as well 
 as the advantages and pleasures that are to be de- 
 rived from an acquaintance with learning, and we 
 once more beg of our countrymen, we once more 
 implore them, to reflect as they read this work, in 
 which we have enumerated the advantages of the 
 scientific and literary institutions in England, and 
 they will at once see that they are the result of 
 unremitting perseverance of those who have in 
 former and present ages given themselves up in 
 pursuit of knowledge, and have immortalized them- 
 
463 
 
 selves by making known to the public^ or we may- 
 say to the worlds their discoveries and inventions^ 
 and the greatness which England has attained, 
 and the wealth she possesses is all the fruit of 
 knowledge, or in other Avords, science arranged in 
 a system, so as to l)e easily acquired, remembered, 
 and applied to useful purposes for the physical 
 comforts of men, in addition to the gratification it 
 affords to the mind. Thus, the English can ma- 
 nufacture articles to clothe men, make all sorts of 
 instruments to perform anatomical operations, 
 and medicines to alleviate the sufferings of human 
 beings. They can supply water to houses witli 
 steam, and light the streets wdthout oil^ they can 
 travel by land or sea with steam, and aye — they 
 can even cook the food which they eat wdth steam, 
 and this is all done by science. They can blow 
 up sunken ships and clear out harbours, they can 
 travel underneath a river, while over their heads 
 ships are passing, and this all done with the aid 
 of science and art ; in fact, it would be impossible 
 for us to show v/hat mighty works are performed 
 by the aid of science. 
 
 We will not conclude this subject without 
 observing that it is the incumbent duty of those 
 who have been liberally educated, to exert their 
 utmost endeavours, to come forward and show^ to 
 their fellow brethren the advantages of knowledge, 
 and the pleasures they derive, and the fruit they 
 reap from its blessed field. 
 
464 
 
 We are firmly of opinion that if those who can 
 afford to appropriate a portion of their income to 
 luxuries would unite into several small bodies^ and 
 were subscriptions raised among them to hire 
 rooms^ and collect a library of easy reading and 
 useful w^orks^ and take in daily newspapers, and 
 were the subscribers to frequent these places, a 
 taste for reading would thus be created, and it will 
 be the first but surest step towards further and 
 higher advancement to learning ; it may be as well 
 for any subscriber who is well acquainted with any 
 particular subject in art or science to lecture upon 
 it : and they will soon become so interested as to 
 extend the collection of books, and an increase of 
 members will speedily follow ; at least, such has 
 been the history of a great many of the useful in- 
 stitutions of London. 
 
 We also recommend those students of the Na- 
 tive Education Institution, who have brightly 
 shone forth in their acquirements to lecture on 
 the elementary principles of science^ to translate 
 such books as would excite people to higher and 
 more intricate branches of learning. 
 
 Such indeed must be the plan to diffuse know- 
 ledge and information amongst our countrymen, 
 and we hope we shall live to see the day, when it 
 will be extensively and generally carried into 
 effect. 
 
465 
 
 CHAPTER XXXII. 
 
 ALBUMS. EPITAPHS. 
 
 We forgot to mention^ that upon visiting the 
 houses of several of our friends in England^ 
 we found lying upon their tables^ handsomely 
 bound books with superior paper therein^ and em- 
 bossed cards, for the purpose of soliciting from 
 their friends, when they become sufficiently ac- 
 quainted, either drawings from their pencil, or 
 little pieces either of poetry or of prose composi- 
 tion, and it is found to be a lasting and a pleasing 
 record of friendships formed at every period of 
 their lives ; the piece is written and signed with the 
 name of the Avriter, and dated, and there is no 
 mode by which a friend, whom destiny has taken 
 to another quarter of the globe, can be so easily, 
 so pleasantly brought often before the mind, as by 
 this description of l)ook called an Album.^' We 
 have seen many at our friends^ houses and have 
 written in them, and in order to keep our kind 
 friends constantly in recollection, when we are in 
 our own country, we have kept an album each, 
 X 2 
 
46G 
 
 and we here copy some lines that are written in 
 them, some of which are original, and others 
 copied, in order to shew our countrymen the kind 
 feelings which they entertained towards us. 
 
 The following lines are written on the first 
 pages of our Albums : — 
 
 Let no false friend within this book, 
 Dare pen a line, or e'en presume to look ; 
 These are this Album's laws, this is its test — 
 Read, v)rite, or close it, you know best. 
 
 Adieu my Friends. 
 Jehangeer Nowrojee, 
 
 HiRJEEBHOY MeRWANJEE, 
 DORABJEE MUNCHERJEE." 
 
 " Farewell, it is a pensive word, 
 
 " Yet I must say farewell, — 
 " But if my fervent wish be heard, 
 
 " Thou wilt in safety dwell. 
 
 " At noon, at night, the throne of grace, 
 
 " I shall approach in prayer, 
 " That he who reigns in every place, 
 
 " May make thy life his care. 
 
 " The hours that we have spent alone, 
 
 *' In converse frank and free, 
 ** Will prove my friends, when thou art gone, 
 A solace sweet to me. 
 
 " And eft when yon pale star of eve, 
 
 " Shall deck the western sky, 
 *' My fancy still may yet deceive, 
 
 " And paint thee still as nigh. 
 
467 
 
 " But oh, my friends on England's shore. 
 
 " Hard by the restless main, 
 " At noon tide bright or evening hour, 
 
 " When shall we meet again? 
 
 That question wakes each tender chord, 
 ** That in my heart doth dwell, 
 " Farewell, it is a pensive word, 
 " Yet I must say " Farewell." 
 
 Fare thee Well'' 
 Herjeebhoy Merwanjee. 
 
 " And, is it thus ? must friendship's fire. 
 Just lighted in the breast expire, 
 Must the young blossom, scarcely blown, 
 " Wither before the hour of noon ! 
 
 Alas! and shall we meet no more, 
 " On earth, to spend the social hour, 
 " To tell alternate hopes and fears, 
 " Of all that damps, and all that cheers ? 
 " No ! Fare thee W^ell." 
 
 On Parting. 
 
 ' How painful the hour that compels us to part, 
 
 * With the friends that we cherish, as gems of the he^at, 
 
 * But, ah ! more severe when that parting is told, 
 
 * With a voice unimpassioned, an aspect that's cold, 
 
 ' When the sigh meets no sigh from an answering breast, 
 ' When the hand pressing warm vainly sues to be prest ; ^ 
 ' For then 'tis not absence alone we deplore, 
 ' But friendship decay'd, and affection no more. 
 
4m 
 
 ' From the friends that we love, when we wander alone, 
 ' Our thoughts unrefresh'd, and our feelings unknown, 
 ' Whilst Hope strives in vain through futurity's gloom, 
 ' To describe one bright moment in seasons to come, 
 ' Yet, then, if a sigh be heaved from the breast, 
 * If the hand pressing warm in requital be prest, 
 ' Some soft recollections will still be in store, 
 ' Though in parting we feel, we may never meet more/' 
 
 On « Good Bye." 
 
 Thou little word all fraught with sorrow^ 
 ** Thy presence damps each friendly tie. 
 And fond hearts grieve, when 'tis to morrow 
 " These joys must end in cold " good bye." 
 
 " It tells me Hirjee we must part, 
 *' These happy hours too swiftly fly, 
 
 " As each new pleasure warms my heart, 
 
 " Thou soon must bid thy friend good bye." 
 
 How cruel that a word so small, 
 " Should so much wretchedness imply, 
 " E'en pleasures sink and fortunes fall, 
 
 " When saddened by that word " good bye," 
 
 " Oh 1 Hirjee 'tis such pain to part, 
 " Methinks 'tis sweeter far to die, 
 
 ** Than with an almost breaking heart, 
 *' To bid a cherished friend good bye." 
 
 *' But there is One that reigns above, 
 
 ** He at my prayer will still be nigh, 
 " To watch and guard the friend I love. 
 Though I alas '.must say good bye.'* 
 
 ** Then fare thee well " forget me not," 
 " But as the lagging hours flit by, 
 
 " Think of that friend, whose varying lot, 
 *' Compels him now to sigh " good bye/* 
 
469 
 
 TO Jehanjeer Nowrojee. 
 
 " There is a soft and pleasing rite, 
 
 " Which India's gentle maidens prove, 
 
 " They down the Ganges send a light, 
 " By which to guess their fate in love. 
 
 *' How anxiously they watch its ray, 
 
 Lest storms should cast it on the shore, 
 " Or sunken rocks its course betray, 
 '* Or whirlpools whelm to rise no more. 
 
 " But how they look with keen delight, 
 
 *' "What soft presages fill the soul, 
 " As calmly onwards floats that light, 
 
 " To where the boundless oceans roll. 
 
 '* Dear J'angeer may thy lamp of life, 
 " Escape the rock and miss the shoal, 
 
 " Pass by the vortices of strife, 
 
 " Nor fail to reach the hoped for goal. 
 
 *' But down life's river, may it glide, 
 
 " Henceforth from storm, and sorrow free, 
 
 " And in the end triumphant ride, 
 " The oceans of eternity." 
 
 TO HiRJEEBHOY MeRWANJEE. 
 
 " Dear Hirjee you flout at our climate so stern, 
 
 " So uncertain, and chilly you say, 
 " And you smile at the thought of an early return, 
 
 " To the bright sunny skies of Bombay. 
 
 ^' Yet Hirjee remember, tho' rain drops fall fast, 
 
 *' Tho' snow-flakes lie thick on the field, 
 " That the soil is improv'd, that the winter's soon past, 
 
 " And rich is the harvest they yield. 
 
470 
 
 " And such be thy type, for should carets icy hand, 
 " Rain its sorrows, thy heart to annoy. 
 May they melt like the snow-flakes, yet feeling expand, 
 " And end in a harvest of joy." 
 
 The following were copied into our books : — 
 
 When forced to part from those we love, 
 " Tho' sure to meet to-morrow. 
 We yet a kind of anguish prove, 
 " And feel a kind of sorrow. 
 
 But oh, what words can paint the grief, 
 *' When from those friends we sever, 
 " Perhaps to part for days — for years, 
 " Perhaps to part /or ever'* 
 
 The annexed excellent and consoling lines 
 were written by one of our kind friends. 
 
 Lines addressed to my friends, Hirjeebhoy, 
 Jehangeer, and Dorabjee^ on their leaving 
 England, for Bombay, acompanied with best 
 wishes for their health and prosperity.'^ 
 
 ** Man's life is but a chcquer'd scene, 
 
 " A round of joy and sorrov/, 
 " We view the past^ as what has been, 
 
 " But v»ho foresees the morrow? 
 
 " Friends of the east, alike to you, 
 
 " Are providences cast, 
 " May blessings crov»^n life's journey thro', 
 
 ** More blessed than the past. 
 
471 
 
 " Though short your sojourn in our land, 
 
 " And soon, as friends, we part, 
 *' Long, long will friendship hold her hand 
 
 " Still cherish'd in the heart. 
 
 " You kindly say * departure hence, 
 " Will cause you pain and grief ! ' 
 
 " Then think of home — a charm from whence, 
 ** We all obtain relief. 
 
 " God prosper you, where'er you roam, 
 
 ** Be with you on the main, 
 " Conduct you safely to your home ! 
 
 " To meet dear friends again. 
 
 But say not, 'though the mighty main, 
 " Our homes in time may sever, 
 " That we shall never meet again, 
 " Say rather — soon for ever ! 
 
 " There is a land of endless joy, 
 
 " Where sorrows never dwell, 
 " Where friendship lasts without alloy, 
 
 " And all shall say, 'tis ivell. 
 
 " To that fair land, my valued friends, 
 
 ** May we our course pursue, 
 " And meeting there, when this life ends, 
 
 " A friendship pure, renew." 
 
 A Consoling Reflection. 
 
 What though on earth we meet no more, 
 ** And seas our homes may sever, 
 " Still let us hope when Ufe is o'er, 
 " To meet in Heaven for ever.'* 
 
472 
 
 Farewell. 
 
 *' Nay shrink not from that word " Farewell," 
 ** As if 'twere friendship's final knell; 
 Such fears may prove but vain : 
 
 So changeful is life's fleeting day, 
 " Whene'er we sever, hope to say, 
 
 " We part to meet again. 
 
 " E'en the last parting earth can know, 
 " Brings not unutterable woe 
 
 " To souls that heavenward soar, 
 " For humble faith, with steadfast eye, 
 " Points to a brighter world on high, 
 " Where hearts, that here at parting sigh, 
 
 " May meet, to part no more." 
 
 Remembrance. 
 
 ' When the soft tear steals silently down from the eye. 
 '* Take no note of its course nor detect the low sigh, 
 
 * From some spring of soft sorrow its origin flows, 
 
 " Some tender remembrance that weeps as it goes. 
 
 * Oh, 'tis not to say what will bring to the mind, 
 
 " The joys that are fled, and the friends left behind, 
 ' A tune, or a song, or the time of the year, 
 *' Strikes the key of reflection and moans on the ear. 
 
 ' Thro' the gay scenes of youth the remembrance strays, 
 
 " Till memory steps back on past pleasures to gaze, 
 ' Fleeting shades now they seem that glide silent away, 
 The remains of past hours, and the ghost of each day. 
 
 ' Let the tear then drop silent, nor mark the full eye, 
 " The soul's secret off'ering, no mortal should spy, 
 
 ' Few souls are prepared for a rite so divine, 
 " When the feelings alone sacrifice to the shrine." 
 
473 
 
 As many of our friends were kind enough 
 to permit us to copy any thing we Uked from 
 their books^ we here indiscriminately annex a 
 few^ which will convey to our countrymen, an 
 idea of what other things, besides the kind and 
 feeling expressions of friendship, are written in 
 Albums. 
 
 My Native Isle, 
 
 " Oh, tell me not of fairer lands, 
 
 " Beneath a brighter sky, 
 ** Of streams that roll o'er golden sands, 
 
 " And flowers that never die. 
 
 *' My native Isle ! My native Isle ! 
 
 Though bleak and bare thou be, 
 " And scant and cold the Summer's smile, 
 " Thou'rt all the world to me. 
 
 " The flowers that on thy mountain's brow, 
 
 When Wintry winds assail, 
 " Securely sleep beneath the snow, 
 " Their cold and kindly veil. 
 
 " Transplanted to a richer soil, 
 " Where genial breezes play. 
 In sickly gloom we droop awhile, 
 " Then wither and decay." 
 
 •* Women have whims and small requests, 
 " That agitate their tender breasts, 
 
 " Tho' we as trifles eye them ; 
 " But when their feelings they divulge, 
 ** With looks they ask us to indulge, 
 
 " Can any man deny them ?" 
 
474 
 
 ** Dust is lighter than a feather, 
 
 " And the wind more light than either ; 
 
 " But a woman's fickle mind, 
 
 *' Lighter than feather, dust or wind." 
 
 As lamps burn silent with vmconscious light, 
 " So modest ease in beauty shines most bright 5 
 *' Unaiming charms with edge resistless fall, 
 *' And she who meant no mischief does it all." 
 
 ** In Paradise a woman caused all 
 
 " The ruin of mankind by Adam's fall, 
 
 What wonder then if they o'ercome us here, 
 " When we're more weak, and they perhaps as fair. 
 
 My plan though mock'd by knave, coquet and fool 
 ** To thinking minds must prove this golden rule, 
 " In all pursuits, but chiefly in a wife, 
 " Not wealth, but morals mark the happy life." 
 
 " On his death bed poor Simon lies, 
 " His spouse is in despair, 
 With frequent sobs and mutual sighs, 
 ** They both express their care. 
 
 " A different cause, says parson Sly, 
 " The same effect may give, 
 
 " Poor Simon fears that he shall die, 
 " His wife, that he may live." 
 
 Between woman and wine, poor man's lot is to smart, 
 For wine makes his head ache, and woman liis heart." 
 
475 
 
 " When the tempest of life in a torrent descendeth, 
 
 " And the world like the whirlwind but seeks to destroy, 
 
 " How welcome's the hand that true friendship extendeth, 
 " That sweetens the cup and in sorrow gives joy. 
 
 " The willow may bend to the blast that is cheerlesSj 
 " Seek safety in stooping its neck to the storm, 
 
 *' But a friend like the oak of the forest is fearless, 
 " The greater the danger, the nobler the form. 
 
 " 'Tis a blessing, a treasure, that has not its fellow, 
 " 'Tis the comfort, the solace, of life's thorny hour, 
 The heart that has known it, can feel its full value, 
 " A friend with the will, a friend with the power." 
 
 " Of mortal blessings here the first is health. 
 
 And next those charms by which the eye we move. 
 " The third is w^ealth, unsounding, guiltless wealth, 
 " And then an intercourse with those we love." 
 
 Beauty's a blessing which soon fades away, 
 ** But virtue in woman will never decay, 
 " If beauty and virtue, in one woman be, 
 " If she wants a husband, recommend her to me." 
 
 EPITAPHS. 
 
 A singular custom prevails in England^ that 
 of putting up monuments in churches in 
 memory of dead persons, and of placing upon 
 their monuments in addition to their ages and 
 names, an epitaph as it is called ; some of them 
 are very affecting and pretty, others are quite 
 
476 
 
 ridiculous; we will copy a few of both sorts. — 
 In Maidstone church yard^ the county town 
 of Kent^ is the following : — 
 
 " The grave has eloquence, its lectures teach 
 ** In silence, louder than divines ean preach, 
 " Hear what it says, ye sons of folly, hear, 
 " It speaks to you, lend an attentive ear." 
 
 "Here Francis Jarrett, lies! What then? 
 " Frank, when his Master calls, will rise again." 
 
 ON TWO CHILDREN IN ESSEX. 
 
 " Two sweeter babes you never did see, 
 " Than God Almighty sent to me, 
 " They were surprised by Ague fits, 
 And here they lie as dead as nits." 
 
 " Reader, if patience, meekness, faith, and truth, 
 *' Have charms for age, or influence for youth, 
 " Pause on this spot, here drop one heartfelt tear, 
 " Here learn to die in hope, or hve in holy fear." 
 
 *' Here lies the man Richard, 
 
 " And Mary his wife, 
 " Their surname was Pritchard, 
 
 " They lived without strife ; 
 
477 
 
 " And the reason was plain, 
 They abounded with riches, 
 
 " They no care, had nor pain. 
 
 And the wife wore the breeches." 
 
 Very odd things are sometimes mixed upon 
 tomb stones ; sometimes they represent the 
 living as lamenting the dead^ at other times 
 the dead is as it were speaking from the grave. 
 And in Chatham church yard was a stone with 
 this upon it : — A man had buried two wives/' 
 after stating the name and age of the first^ was 
 the following The Lord gave, and the Lord 
 hath taken away, blessed be the name of the 
 Lord/^ In a few years his second wife died, 
 and following her name and age — was I 
 called upon the Lord and he heard me, and 
 delivered me out of all my troubles.'^ 
 
 " Forgive blest shade the tributary tear, 
 
 " That mourns thy exit from a world like this ; 
 
 " Forgive the wish that would have kept thee here, 
 " And stay'd thy progress to the seats of bliss. 
 
 " No more confined to grov'ling scenes of night, 
 " No more a tenant pent in mortal clay, — 
 
 ** Now should we rather hail thy glorious flight, 
 " And trace thy journey to the realms of day." 
 
478 
 
 *' Here lies the body of Sarah Sexton, 
 
 " Who as a wife did never vex one, 
 
 " We can't say that for her at the next stone." 
 
 We shall conclude our little collection of 
 epitaphs with one we think the best. 
 
 " Praises on tombs are trifles vainly spent, 
 " A man's good name is his best monument." 
 
479 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIV. 
 
 CLIMATE OF ENGLAND. 
 
 Some of the Customs of England;, of every day^s 
 occurrence^ appeared to us very odd ; when two 
 intimate friends meet in the street (particularly in 
 the country) they say to each other without stop- 
 pings but nodding to each other, How do ?^ 
 " how do you do/** pretty well/^ fine day/^ 
 
 looks like rain/^ good bye/' " good bye." 
 This we saw repeated constantly, very much to 
 our amusement, with^ of course, the variation 
 of very warm,^^ " quite oppressive,^^ or ^' very 
 gloomy,'^ all these remarks of course are brought 
 about by the variableness of the climate, and it is 
 indeed perpetually changing. 
 
 There are twelve months in the English 
 year, January is the firsts and is usually the 
 coldest in the year, so cold that water is 
 frozen ; all the inland rivers are frequently block- 
 ed, and ice is formed of such thickness, that 
 in 1814 the river Thames was so thickly covered 
 with ice that a fair was held on it^ and thousands 
 of persons were to be seen amusing themselves 
 
480 
 
 on what is usually water. So firm and thick was 
 the ice that fires were lighted and a bullock roasted 
 whole ; a printing press was set in operation on 
 the ice^ and several witty things were printed. 
 
 In January, usually, the ground is covered with 
 snow. In January, 1841, we saw it very many 
 inches deep, completely changing the appearance 
 of the country ; and oh ! how beautifully white it 
 makes every place ; when the sun, which in Eng- 
 land in that month has not much power, shines 
 upon it, nothing we can say can convey an idea of 
 its dazzling brightness, no collection of precious 
 stones are to be compared with it ; but then, how 
 cold it is, — even by the side of a large fire made from 
 coals, you cannot keep warm : when you pop your 
 head out of doors, the nose, the toes, and the 
 fingers soon make you feel that it is indeed severe. 
 There are animals in England furnished by their 
 Maker with the power of being torpid or inanimate 
 in severe cold weather ; frogs and snakes continue 
 for weeks as if dead; dormice, squirrels, and 
 field-mice are also gifted with this happy quality. 
 
 February, the second month, also has much of 
 cold, but towards the end of the month the sun 
 has more power, and there are some cheering 
 days, but usually much rain and snow falls in this 
 month of the year. 
 
 March, the third month, is usually dry, but it 
 has generally cold, severe, piercing, winds painful 
 even to natives of this variable climate, but to us. 
 
481 
 
 accustomed to perpetual warm weather, quite dis- 
 tressing ; still March has its pleasures. All the 
 hedges and trees that during the cold weather 
 have been without leaves, now begin to assume a 
 greenness, the buds in which the future branch is 
 in miniature, and has been asleep, is now pushing 
 forth ; the fields begin to look green, flowers are 
 to be seen peeping forth, and it is singular that 
 nearly all the earliest of English flowers are yel- 
 low ; we never could learn why. All the farmers 
 are busy ; this is their grand time of sowing their 
 seeds ; some sorts of wheat, beans, peas^ rye, oats, 
 and barley, are now sown. In March also the 
 wall fruit, peaches, and apricots, blow in the 
 gardens. 
 
 April, the fourth month, has weather most vari- 
 able ; in this month the cherry and apple trees 
 bloom, and the fragrance and beauty of a 
 large assemblage of these trees, in the month 
 of April, is most pleasing. Cherries and apples 
 are grown most extensively in the county of Kent. 
 A gentleman, named Barling, near Sittingbourne, 
 has, we are told, nearly eighty acres, all close 
 together, of the best sorts of apples, pears, and 
 cherries. April, however, is an unsafe month to 
 travel in, without being prepared for rain, as it is 
 one hour sunshine and then heavy rain, and again 
 in a few minutes, the beautiful cheering sun bursts 
 forth in his glory and gladdens all things. All 
 the fields now are covered with flowers, and the 
 
 X 
 
482 
 
 sides of the hedges and woods have beautiful 
 flowers. To us who hve in a perpetual summer, 
 these appearances would be as nothing; but to 
 those who dwell in England, where for several 
 months every year the trees are leafless, and the 
 fields destitute of verdure, when nothing is seen 
 but the bare earth for a long period ; it is a season 
 of joy and thankfulness to see all things vege- 
 tating, and to behold every field green, and every 
 tree looking beautiful in its new leafy clothing. 
 
 May is the month when a most gaudy and 
 variegated showy flower that is cultivated very 
 extensively in England is in bloom, and perhaps 
 no more beautiful sight can be witnessed than a 
 bed of first rate expensive tulips ; they are bul- 
 bous roots, and are planted in the month of No- 
 vember, in long beds of prepared earth, seven in 
 each row, four inches deep, and full seven inches 
 apart; the length of the bed depends upon the 
 size of the garden. Our friend^s bed consisted of 
 sixty rows, making four hundred and twenty 
 roots ; and just before they come into bloom, a 
 canvas roof is built over the bed, to protect the 
 flowers from the rain and the powerful rays of the 
 sun; the flowers are about two feet from the 
 ground, and consist of eight petals, and they 
 are of every diversity of colour. The three grand 
 distinctions are Bibloemen^s purple upon white 
 ground, Rosens which have red and pinkish stripes 
 upon white ground, and Bizarre's which have 
 
483 
 
 yellow ground^ with brownish or black stripes. 
 It is the variety and distinctness of these stripes 
 which render them valuable. And there is every 
 possible tint and hue of the above-named colours 
 that can be mixed together. A tulip bed of first 
 rate good flowers is very valuable ; several of the 
 roots being ten pounds each, very many five 
 pounds each, and the others varying from five 
 pounds to five shillings per root. 
 
 May is the fifth month, and is usually considered 
 the most beautiful month in the year in England. 
 The weather is most settled; and although 
 not hot there is a warmth and comfort in the state 
 of the temperature. The hawthorn hedges are 
 full of a beautiful assemblage of sweet-scented 
 bloom, which quite perfumes the air. The horse 
 chesnut tree is in bloom, with its large white 
 flowers, and everything looks blithe and cheerful. 
 
 June, the sixth month, is also a fine month, 
 with increased warmth. This is the season when 
 the grass is cut and made into hay, and the wool 
 is sheared from the sheep^s back in this month ; 
 and in walking in the country the perfume from 
 the fields of beans is most delightful, as also the 
 clover fields. In June, that beautiful fruit, the 
 cherry, is ripe ; and is so abundant and cheap, 
 being, in 1840, only a penny per pound, that 
 every person is enabled to partake largely of this 
 fleshy, firm, and delicious stone fruit. Cherries 
 
4M 
 
 are about the size of a betel nut, and are a most 
 refreshing beautiful fruit. 
 
 July the seventh month is usually a fine month 
 with increasing warmth. This month is the 
 great fruit month. Raspberries, gooseberries, 
 and currants, are quite ripe, and are to be met 
 with in abundance, and very cheap. 
 
 August the eighth month is the hottest month 
 usually, in England. In this month, the harvest, 
 or gathering in of the corn, is the occupation of 
 immense numbers of people. The wheat, barley, 
 and oats are now reaped with a sickle, and bound 
 up in bundles, and drawn in waggons to the 
 barn to be thrashed out. And hops, which are 
 used to make beer, are gathered in this month 
 ^nd dried for that purpose. 
 
 September the ninth month. All the apples 
 and pears are by this time ripe and fit to be 
 gathered. Apples are a most A^aluable fruit ; they 
 are a grateful flavour to eat, and many sorts will 
 keep good for six months. A friend of ours, 
 whose birth-day is the fifth of June, usually keeps 
 apples until that time. Cider, a very nice drink, 
 is made from the juice of apples, and is bottled, 
 and becomes effervescing, and is almost as good as 
 champagne, if made from choice fruit. Perry is 
 made from the juice of pears, and is also beauti- 
 ful to drink. 
 
 October the tenth month begins to shew ap- 
 
485 
 
 pearance of change ; the days shorten^ rough cold 
 winds blow^ and the leaves on the trees begin to 
 look yellow. This is a busy month with the 
 farmer; he ploughs his land^ and sows great 
 part of his wheat ; there are no flowers in the 
 fields ; the hedges look bare^ and then comes 
 
 November^ the eleventh months cold^ damp, 
 foggy, and miserable. All the trees become bare, 
 the weather becomes cold, and the spirits are 
 depressed, and this brings 
 
 December, the twelfth and last month. Frosts 
 and snow like what we described in January now 
 prevail, but there is a clearer atmosphere usually 
 in December than in November. The frosts 
 harden the ground so that one can walk pleasantly; 
 and in December is Christmas, the season of fes 
 tivity among Christians, being the birth-time of 
 Jesus Christ. There is great rejoicing ; great and 
 cheerful parties are made at each other's houses. 
 On Christmas- day, all the members of families 
 contrive to come from distances of many miles to 
 meet and dine at their father's house, and 
 Christmas makes all hearts merry. 
 
 We here wish to inform our countrymen that 
 the climate of England, though very cold, is not 
 unhealthy, because we kept our healths, generally 
 speaking, very good indeed, and by taking proper 
 care of ourselves, we escaped the rigour and seve- 
 rity of the winter. 
 
486 
 
 On account of the cold and the frequent changes 
 of weather^ it is necessary to wear flannel next the 
 skin, in order to keep the body warm and of an 
 uniform temperature. Great care ought to be 
 taken in keeping the feet warm, and never put- 
 ting on clothes which are the least damp, because 
 that is liable to give a severe cold in winter. 
 
 There are many precautions necessary in Eng- 
 land with regard to the climate, which our space 
 will not allow us to enumerate, but we shall men- 
 tion a few which would be useful to any of our 
 countrymen visiting England. In winter, be care- 
 ful not to put on damp shoes, never get unneces- 
 sarily wet, avoid going out in the evening as 
 much as possible. When you go out in cold 
 weather, put on as much clothing as would keep 
 you warm ; take plenty of exercise, even in very 
 severe weather (provided it is dry). Never stand 
 in open air after a long walk, or after you have 
 perspired. Do not sit with a window or a door 
 open, or where there is a draught of air. Never 
 go out of a warm room into oi3en air, or to a cold 
 place without some additional clothing. By fol- 
 lowing these suggestions, and by adopting a judi- 
 cious and moderate plan of Uving, we think that 
 a stranger will keep his health very good, and 
 consequently will enjoy all the pleasures of hia 
 travels. 
 
487 
 
 CHAPTER XXXV. 
 
 CONCLUDING OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 It is now necessary^ as the period draws near 
 for us to bid a final adieu and farewell to Eng- 
 land^ and to return to our ever dear and happy- 
 home, Bombay, that we should take leave of our 
 readers. First, then, we would address our own 
 countrymen, as it is for them that we have com- 
 piled this little volume, and we would say to our 
 brethren in the east, who have leisure and money, 
 by all means pay a visit to England. Amply, 
 most amply will they be repaid for the expenditure 
 of their time and a portion of their fortune. They 
 will see that England is a mighty country, con- 
 taining within herself all the elements of a mighty 
 people : that she has mineral productions of coal, 
 iron, copper, tin, and several sorts of stone, that 
 enable her children to take a prominent position 
 as a manufacturing people, and that no nation of 
 the present day can compete with her in her ma- 
 nufactures : that her machinery is of the most per- 
 fect description, and that by it she produces every 
 
488 
 
 material^ from the finest lace to the largest cable, 
 that her cutlery and other instruments are un- 
 rivalled both for their workmanship and for the 
 materials of which they are made : that her glass 
 is as pure and beautifully cut as it is possible for 
 such an article to be made : that her woollen cloths 
 for fineness of texture, brightness of colour, and 
 for durability are not to be matched any where. 
 That her linen and cotton surpass those manufac- 
 tured in any other part of the globe, that her silks 
 are now nearly equal to those of any other kingdom, 
 and her institutions are the greatest object of ad- 
 miration to all the nations on the face of the 
 earth. 
 
 Our readers will very naturally ask, why is it that 
 this little speck on the map of the world should 
 thus become unrivalled. Why cannot France, 
 containing in population double that of England, 
 compete with her ? why not the mighty continent 
 of America? why not the other European na- 
 tions ? We will answer this question in a very few 
 words. There is a great deal of private enterprise 
 among the English people, they are all of one mind, 
 and all working to one end — viz. the adopting of 
 such measures as will promote their happiness 
 and welfare. Almost all the institutions, educa- 
 tional, scientific, and charitable, belong to private 
 associations and companies, receiving but little 
 support and many none at all from Government ; 
 we have elsewhere described the bridges, railroads 
 
489 
 
 and other public conveyances which have been con- 
 structed by private individuals. Banks^ asylums, 
 &c. are private property, and to effect all these they 
 unite together in large numbers, by which means 
 wealth, talent and influence are concentrated into 
 one point, this leads them to the establishment of 
 great national works subservient to public good. 
 This system is decidedly mischievous when carried 
 out for the formation of projects, which individual 
 wealth is capable of effecting, as it tends to check 
 and discourage individual enterprise, but for 
 works such as railroads, bridges, banks and other 
 institutions, it is admirably calculated, as these are 
 beyond individual power to effect. To this in a 
 great measure in conjunction with the colonial 
 possesions and maritime enterprize may be attri- 
 buted the greatness of England and by this public 
 feeling, and union of sentiment among themselves 
 the English have now arrived at such national pros- 
 perity as to excite the admiration of the world. 
 
 To give an idea of the activity and fondness of 
 of public business that so pre-eminently distin- 
 guishes the English character from that of their 
 European neighbours, we may mention that we 
 became acquainted with a commercial gentleman, 
 whose enterprising spirit had led him almost un- 
 aided to form not less than five great companies, 
 all of unquestionable utility to the country, viz. 
 three banks, one gas light and one railway com- 
 pany, this same gentleman was likewise a magis- 
 
490 
 
 trate, a governor of two or three public institutions^ 
 a considerable money dealer, and the head of a 
 family of fourteen children, so that he must have 
 employed the whole period of his life with unre- 
 mitting attention to these things, thus sacrificing 
 with a noble and exalted patriotic feeling, his 
 private comforts for the good of his country and 
 his fellow- brethren. To this we repeat is to be 
 attributed their great superiority of wealth and 
 power, considering their amount of population as 
 compared with other countries 
 
 Nothing can thus more strikingly evince the 
 difference in the effect upon a nation^s prosperity, 
 where in the one case it emanates from the people^ 
 and in the other from the government. As no go- 
 vernment however wealthy can possibly support 
 the endless variety of useful institutions that are 
 to be seen in England. 
 
 We have been insensibly led into digression, 
 but now hasten to bring our observations to a 
 close. In the spring of the year, English scenery 
 with its greenness and its freshness, with the trees 
 in bloom and those bearing their fruit, is like a 
 perpetual garden of flowers, and the corn fields of 
 wheat, barley, oats, rye, peas, beans, &c. each in 
 their respective seasons, present various pictures 
 of great beauty, and we pronounce England^ as a 
 whole, well w^orth the trouble of coming all the 
 way from India to see. Our countrymen must 
 not think that we have given anything like a full 
 
491 
 
 description of England ; we came over with a 
 specific object in view, and it was only whilst re- 
 laxing from the study of our business that we 
 were able to see the things we have mentioned, 
 and to make our remarks upon them. 
 
 So far as we have given descriptions, we have 
 endeavoured to obtain the best information we 
 could gain upon the several subjects, and we are 
 inclined to hope our statements are generally cor- 
 rect ; still great allowances must be made for our 
 being strangers; we haA^e not perhaps in many 
 instances been able to obtain full information upon 
 all the points we could have wished, but if every 
 one visiting England would take the trouble, if 
 they have leisure, to put down every day their re- 
 marks upon the manners, customs, and everything 
 that they see in England, we are sure it would 
 amply repay them, and enlighten their country- 
 men by given publicity to the whole at the end of 
 their sojourn in the country. 
 
 It may happen that our little work may be read 
 by some of the English people ; we request them not 
 to judge too harshly of our production, as, being 
 sensible of the want of our intimate acquaintance 
 with the English language, we did not originally 
 intend to print our remarks in this country, but 
 having been repeatedly urged and encouraged by 
 some of our kind friends to do so, we at length 
 consented. We have received much kindness, 
 much polite attention, and much real friendship 
 
492 
 
 from both ladies and gentlemen in England ; with 
 some we have formed friendships w^hich we hope 
 will only terminate with our lives^ and we shall 
 always recollect England with sentiments of esteem 
 and admiration^ and we shall ever think of that 
 portion of our lives spent on her shores with feel- 
 ings of much pleasure and gratification. And now 
 in bidding adieu to her and the English people^ 
 we would say to them^ — be united^ — ^remember 
 the old English fable of the boy with the bundle 
 of sticks^ — and also the good old English proverb 
 — Union of sentiment is the strength of society^^ 
 — united^ you may bid defiance to the worlds but 
 if disunited^ any force however small may weaken 
 and destroy you. — Farewell. 
 
 FINIS. 
 
 PRINTED BY W. NICOI., 60, PAI L MALL. 
 
London, Jan. 1841. 
 
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 Policy, and of the British and Foreign Embassies to, and Intercourse with, that 
 Empire. With a Chart of Canton River. 8vo. 10s. 6d. boards. 
 
 10. 
 
 The HISTORY, ANTIQUITIES, TOPOGRAPHY, 
 
 and STATISTICS of EASTERN INDIA; comprising the Districts of Behar, 
 Shahabad, Bhagulpoor.Goruckpoor, Dinagepoor, Puraniya, Rungpoor, and Assam, 
 in relation to their Geology, Mineralogy, Botany, Agriculture, Commerce, &c. &c. 
 Surveyed under the Orders of the Supreme Government, and collated from the 
 Original Documents at the East-India House. By IVJONTGOMERY MARTIN, 
 Author of the History of the British Colonies," &c. Complete in 3 vols. 8vo., 
 with numerous Plates. £3. 12s. cloth boards, lettered. 
 
 ** This work is one of the most valuable additions to the literature of the pre- 
 sent day." — Literary Gazette. 
 
 F f f 2 
 
4 
 
 WORKS RELATING TO INDIA 
 
 11. 
 
 GZXiCKRIST'S EAST-IUDXA GUIDE. 
 
 GENERAL EAST-INDIA GUIDE and VADE- 
 
 MECUM, for the Public Functionary, Government Officer, Private Agent, 
 Trader, or Foreign gpjourner in British India. By J. B. GILCHRIST, LL.D. 
 8vo. I8s. cloth board* lettered. 
 
 12. 
 
 AN-DERSOWS ACKEEXflr. 
 
 ACHEEN, and the PORTS on the NORTH and 
 
 E\ST COASTS of SUMATRA; with Incidental Notices of the Trade in the 
 Eastern Seas, and the Aggressions of the Dutch. By JOHN ANDERSON, Esq., 
 late of the Hon. East India Company's ('ivil Service at Penang, Singapore and 
 Malacca. 8vo. cloth boards, 7s. 6d. 
 ** A useful little volume." — London Journal of Commerce, 
 
 13. ' 
 
 I.AW REI.ATZM'G to ZXTDIA. 
 
 The LAW RELATING to INDIA and the EAST- 
 
 INDI A COMPANY; with Notes and an Appendix. 4to. cloth. £3. 38. 
 
 ** A valuable volume, prepared apparently with great accuracy."— Time*. 
 
 14. 
 
 TOD'S WESTEB^N- ZirBZA. 
 
 TRAVELS in WESTERN INDIA, embracing a visit 
 
 to the Sacred Mountains of the Jains, and the most celebrated shrines of the 
 Hindu Faith, between Rajpootana and the Indus, and an Account of the Ancient 
 City of Nehrwalla. By the late Lieut.-Colonel JAMES TOD, author of " The 
 Annals of Rajast'han." Royal 4to. ^£3. 13s. 6d. cloth boards. 
 
 This Work is embellished with nine Plates and Vignettes, beautifully Engraved 
 from Sketches by Mrs. Hunter Blair. 
 
 " A work, which must be regarded as 
 the most important, the most full, and 
 the most interesting that has ever ap- 
 peared upon Western India."— ^to. 
 
 **As a sequel to the * Annals,' the 
 present publication takes its place 
 among the most valuable contributions 
 to our knowledge of India."— Lit. Gaz, 
 
 15. 
 
 RZCKAZtDSOTT'S I.ITERAXtir X.EAVES. 
 
 LITERARY LEAVES, or PROSE and VERSE. By 
 
 D. L. RICHARDSON. In 2 vols. 8vo., price £l. Is. cloth lettered. 
 
 " A collection of elegant and pleasing Essays, published at Calcutta."— TVofe to a 
 quotation from " Literary Leaves," in Bulwer's *' Alice." 
 
PUBLISHED BY Wm. H. ALLEN AND CO. 
 
 16. 
 
 Z^SMOZRS of an lTIJ>XIi.N OFFICER. 
 
 MEMOIRS of the EARLY LIFE and SERVICE of a 
 
 FIELD OFFICER on the RETIRED LIST of the INDIAN ARMY. (By Major 
 DAVID PRICE, formerly of the Bombay Army.) One vol. 8vo. 12s. cloth boards. 
 
 17. 
 
 THESIS on the NATURE and HISTORY of PLAGUE 
 
 as observed in the North Western Provinces of India. By FREDERICK 
 FORBES, M.A., M.D., of the Bombay Army. 8vo. 3s. 
 
 18. 
 
 ARTIIff'S BRITISH COIiOIflES. 
 
 STATISTICS of the COLONIES of the BRITISH 
 
 EMPIRE in the WEST INDIES, SOUTH AMERICA, NORTH AMERICA, 
 ASIA, AUSTRAL-ASIA, AFRICA, and EUROPE; comprising the Area, Agri- 
 culture, Commerce, Manufactures, Finances, Military Defence, Cultivated and 
 Waste Lands, Rates of Wages, Prices of Provisions, Banks, Coins, Staple Products, 
 Population, Education, Religion, Crime, &c. &c. of each Colony ; from the Official 
 Records of the Colonial Office. By MONTGOMERY MARTIN, Author of the 
 *• History of the British Colonies," &c. &c. In One large volume Royal Bvo., with 
 Maps, Plans, &c. Price £2. 2s. cloth boards. 
 
 A work of reference for the Statesman, Merchant, Emigrant, 
 Philanthropist, &c. 
 
 •*The mass of valuable intelligence j *• It forms, in fact, a complete Colo- 
 collected in this volume is prodigious." | nial Encyclopaedia."— ^rg-w*. 
 •—Literary Gazette, \ 
 
 19. 
 
 KORSFIEIiB'S FIiAITTS of JAVA. 
 
 PLANTS JAVANIC^ RARIORES, containing 
 
 Descriptions of some of the PLANTS found in JAVA. By THOMAS HORS- 
 FIELD, M.D. Part II. imperial 4to. sewed, price £l. 10s., or coloured, £,2. 10s. 
 Also may be had Part I. price £2. lOs., or coloured, £3. 10s. 
 
 The Descriptions, &c. have been prepared chiefly by John J.Bennett, Esq., 
 and Robert Brown, Esq, 
 
 20. 
 
 EARIi'S EASTERN- SEAS. 
 
 The EASTERN SEAS ; or, VOYAGES and AD VEN- 
 TURES in the INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO in 1832, 1833, and 1834; comprising a 
 Tour of the Island of Java— Visits to Borneo — the Malay Peninsula, Siam, &c. ; 
 Also, an Account of the Present State of Singapore, with Observations on the 
 Commercial Resources of the Archipelago. By GEORGE WINDSOR EARL, 
 M.R.A.S. 1 vol. 8vo. 12s. cloth boards. 
 
 "The volume contains much that is I ** The distinguishing character of 
 novel, communicated in an unaffected Mr. Earl's unpretending book is reality 
 and agreeable m2mQex"—Athen<£um. \ and distinctness." — Spectator. 
 
 F f f 3 
 
6 
 
 WORKS RELATING TO INDIA 
 
 21. 
 
 BRTCE on EBUCil.TZON' in TTfDlA, 
 
 A SKETCH of NATIVE EDUCATION in INDIA, 
 
 under the Superintendence of the Church of Scotland. With Remarks on the 
 Character and Condition of the Hindus, as these bear upon the question of Con- 
 version to Christianity. By JAMES BRYCE, D. D. 8vo. 9s. 6d. boards. 
 
 22. 
 
 GAXpZiOWAY'S COirSTITUTIOM' of ZITDIA. 
 
 OBSERVATIONS on the LAW and CONSTITUTION 
 
 of INDIA ; on the Nature of Landed Tenures ; and on the System of Revenue and 
 Finance, as established by the Moohummudun Law and Moghul Government ; with 
 an Inquiry into the Revenue and Judicial Administration and Regulations of Police 
 at present existing in Bengal. By Lieut.-Col. GALLOWAY, of the Hon. East-India 
 Company's Service. Second Edition, with additions. 8vo. I2s. cloth boards lettered. 
 
 23. 
 
 Tbe THUGS of ZITDZA. 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS of the HISTORY and PRACTICE 
 
 of the THUGS of INDIA : and Notices of some of the Proceedings of the Govern- 
 ment of India, for the Suppression of the Crime of Thuggee. One vol. 8vo., 15s. 
 cloth boards. 
 
 24. 
 
 BACOU'S FIRST ZXMCPRSSSIOM'S. 
 
 FIRST IMPRESSIONS and STUDIES from NATURE 
 
 in HINDOSTAN, embracing an Outline of the Voyage to Calcutta, and Five Years' 
 Residence in Bengal and the Doab, from 1831 to 1836. By THOS. BACON, Lieut, 
 of the Bengal Horse Artillery. 2 vols. 8vo., with Plates. £L 10s. cloth boards. 
 
 '* These volumes will be found a rich I ** A happy combination of correctness 
 storehouse of amusement and instruc- and gaiety."— fic/ectic Review, 
 tion."— Times. 
 
 25. 
 
 FRXTTSEP'S XX7D1A. 
 
 HISTORY of the POLITICAL and MILITARY 
 
 TRANSACTIONS in INDIA, during the Administration of the Marquis of 
 Hastings, from 1813 to 1823. Enlarged from the Narrative published in 1820. By 
 HENRY T. PRINSEP, Esq., of the Bengal Civil Service. 2 vols. 8vo. with 
 Maps and Plates, £l. 12s. cloth boards, lettered. 
 
 26. 
 
 TKORN-TOn-'S CAZiCUZiATOR. 
 
 The EAST-INDIAN CALCULATOR ; or, Tables for 
 
 Assisting Computation of Batta, Interest, Commission, Rent, "Wages, &c., in Indian 
 Money. By THOMAS THORNTON, M.R.A.S. 8vo. £1. Is. boards. 
 
PUBLISHED BY Wm. H. ALLEN AND CO. 
 
 7 
 
 27. 
 
 SOCZETV and XMCATO-Ntsrs in ZITDZA. 
 
 ANGLO-INDIA, SOCIAL, MORAL, and POLITICAL. 
 
 3 vols, post 8vo. £l. 7s. boards. 
 
 ** No work can afford better informa- | ** The papers entitled * English So- 
 
 tion regarding the East than these excel- I ciety in India ' will be found particu- 
 
 lent volumes."— Naua/ and Mil. Gazette. \ laily valuable."— ^f/a*. 
 
 28. 
 
 XZ£RKXiOTS*S QASrOOXa-.ZS-ZSXiAl^. 
 
 The CUSTOMS of the MOOSULMANS of INDIA. 
 
 By JAFFUR SHURREEF (a Native of the Deecan). Composed under the 
 direction of, and translated by G. A. HERKLOTS, M.D., Surgeon on the Madras 
 Establishment. Onevol.Svo., 16s. cloth boards lettered. 
 
 *** This work comprises a full and exact Account of the Various Rites and Cere- 
 monies of the Moosulmans of India, from the moment of Birth to the hour of Death ; 
 including their Fasts and Festivals (particularly the Mohurrum) ; their Vows and 
 Oblations for every Month in the Year ; their different Tribes and Sects, Saints and 
 Devotees; Religious Tenets, Prayers, and Ablutions; the Calculation of Nativities, 
 Necromancy, Exorcism, Casting out Devils, &c. &c. &c. 
 
 29. 
 
 TKOmPSOKT'S CHINA. TRABE. 
 
 CONSIDERATIONS respecting the TRADE with 
 
 CHINA. By JOSEPH THOMPSON, late of the East-India House. Post 8vo. 
 5& bds. 
 
 30. 
 
 EVZBSHrCZ: on the CIIZM-A TRADE. 
 
 MINUTES of EVIDENCE and REPORT, taken 
 
 before the Select Committee of both Houses of Parliament, 1830. CHINA TRADE. 
 2 vols. 8vo. £2. 2s. boards. 
 
 31. 
 
 THE ZSTDZAN- ARCKZPEZiAGO. 
 
 HISTORY of the INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. By 
 
 JOHN CRAWFURD, F.R.S., late British Resident at the Court of Java. 3 vols. 
 8vo., with Maps and Plates. £2. 12s. 6d. cloth lettered. 
 
 32. 
 
 BZiACXEZt'S MAHRATTA WAR. 
 
 MEMOIRS of the OPERATIONS of the BRITISH 
 
 ARM V in INDIA during the late Mahratta War of 1817, 1818, and 1819. By the 
 late Lieut.-Col. VALENTINE BLACKER, C.B., of the Madras Array. One vol. 
 4to., with Maps and Plans, £2. 2s. cloth boards lettered. 
 
WORKS RELATING TO INDIA 
 
 33. 
 
 KOUC^H on MEXiITAI&'Sr Xiil.W, &,c. 
 
 A CHRONOLOGICAL EXPOSITION of MILITARY 
 
 I/AW, deduced from the different Writers, from the years 1781 to 1838, containing 
 their latest opinions upon all points, from the Accusation, Trial, to Final Judgment, 
 &c By Major W. HOUGH, Bengal Artillery. 8 vo. 8s. boards (Calcutta printed.) 
 Invaluable as a work of easy and ready reference."— /as. 
 Also, by the same Author, 
 
 The PRACTICE of COURTS MARTIAL, and other 
 
 Military Courts; with Chapters on Inquests, Courts of Requests, Three Trials 
 (Arson, Larceny, and Murder, with full Evidence), Rules of Evidence, and other 
 Useful Matter and Tables. 8vo. 14s. 
 
 34. 
 
 Tlie ARABIiL^ ITIGKTS, in iLRABZC. 
 
 The ALIF LAILA ; or, BOOK of the THOUSAND 
 
 NIGHTS and ONE NIGHT, commonly known as The Arabian Nights' 
 Entertainments." Now, for the first time, published complete in the Original 
 Arabic, from an Egyptian MS. brought to India by the late Major Turner 
 Macan, Editor of the " Shah Nameh." Edited by Sir W. H. MACN AGHTEN, 
 Bart., of the Bengal Civil Service. Vols. I. to III. royal 8vo. £l 10s. each. 
 (Printed at Calcutta.) 
 
 This work will be completed in Four Volumes. 
 
 35. 
 
 TORREIO-S'S ilRABZArr lO-ZGKTS. 
 
 The BOOK of the THOUSAND NIGHTS and ONE 
 
 NIGHT, from the Arabic of the Egyptian M.S., as edited by Sir W. H. MAC- 
 NAGHTEN, B.C.S. Done into English by HENRY TORRENS, Esq., B.C.S., 
 B.A., &c. Vol. I., 8vo., cloth. 10s. 6d. 
 
 ** For the Arabian Nights, as they 
 are really written, the curious and 
 scientific must recur to Mr. Torrens* 
 translation."— Foreign Quarterly Re- 
 view. 
 
 '* It has superior claims over all pre- 
 ceding translations."— Nau«Z and Mili- 
 tary Gazette. 
 
 Far superior in attractiveness to all 
 preceding versions." — Atlas. 
 
 36. 
 
 WORKS by Sir GRiLVBS C. HiLUGHTOXJ, 
 
 (Member of the Institute of France, &c. &c.) 
 
 PRODROMUS, or an INQUIRY into the FIRST 
 
 PRINCIPLES of REASONING; including an Analysis of the Human Mind. 
 In one volume, 8vo. price 7s. cloth. 
 
 A SHORT INQUIRY into the NATURE of LANGUAGE, 4to. 2s. 
 
 BENGALI, SANSKRIT, and ENGLISH DICTIONARY. 4to. £7. 7s. 
 
 BENGALI SELECTIONS. 4to. £l. 10s. Ditto GLOSSARY. 4to. £l. 10s. 
 
 PURUSHA PARIKKYA. 8vo. 14s. TOTA ITAHAS. 8vo. 6s. 
 
 MANAVA-DHERMA-SASTRA. 2 vols. 4to. £5. 5s. 
 
 A LETTER to the Right Hon. C. W. W. V^YNN, M.P., &c., on the Danger 
 to which the Constitution is exposed from the Encroachments of the Courts of 
 Law. 8vo. 2s. 
 
PUBLISHED BY Wm. H. ALLEN AND CO 
 
 9 
 
 37. 
 
 WOXUCS by Professor H. WZX.SOM-, 
 
 (Of the University of Oxford.) 
 
 SELECT SPECIMENS of the THEATRE of the 
 
 HINDUS, translated from the Original Sanskrit. Second Edition. 2 vols. 8vo. 
 £l. Is. boards. 
 
 *** The Dramas selected are— The Mrichchakati— Vikrama and Urvasi — 
 Uttara Rama Cheritra — Malati and Madhava— Mudra Rakshasa, and Retnavali. 
 •* Curious — interesting — valuable — enduring." — Spectator. 
 
 DICTIONARY, SANSCRIT and ENGLISH, 4to. ^5. 15s. 6d. 
 
 M EGH A DUT A; or Cloud Messenger. Sanscrit and English. 4to. £2. 2s. 
 
 PROVERBS and PROVERBIAL PHRASES in the Persian and Hindoostanee, 
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 DOCUMENTS illustrative of the BURMESE WAR. royal 4to. £2. 2s. 
 
 REVIEW of the EXTERNAL COMMERCE of BENGAL, royal 8vo. 8s. 
 
 CATALOGUE of the MACKENZIE COLLECTION. 2 vols. 8vo. £l, 12s. 
 
 38. 
 
 WORKS by JOKK- SHAKESPEAR, Esq. 
 
 DICTIONARY, HINDUSTANI and ENGLISH, with 
 
 a Copious Index, fitting the Work to serve also as a Dictionary, English and 
 Hindustani. Third Edition, much enlarged. 4to. £7- cloth boards. 
 
 A GRAMMAR of the HINDUSTANI LANGUAGE. Third Edition, enlarged 
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 MUNTAKHABAT-I HINDI; or, SELECTIONS in HINDUSTANI, tor the 
 Use of Students. Third Edition. 2 vols. 4to. £2. 2s. boards. 
 
 39. 
 
 WORKS by J. 3. GZI.CKRIST, Xi.Xi.D. 
 
 HINDOOSTANEE PHILOLOGY ; comprising a 
 
 copious DICTIONARY, Enghsh and Hindostanee, with a Grammatical Intro- 
 duction, 4to. £2. 12s. 6d. boards. 
 
 DIALOGUES, ENGLISH and HINDOOSTANEE. 8vo. 15s. boards. 
 
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 stanee Multum in Parvo. 8vo. 15s. boards. 
 
 HINDEE-ROMAN ORTHOEPIGRAPHICAL ULTIMATUM; Exemplified 
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 boards. 
 
 The HINDEE-MORAL PRECEPTOR; or, Rudimental Principles of Persian 
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 40. 
 
 CVZiTZVATIOU of COTTOM*, &,c. 
 
 PAPERS respecting the CULTIVATION and MANU- 
 
 FACTURE of COTTON-WOOL, RAW SILK, and INDIGO. Printed by order 
 of the East-India Company. 8vo. 12s. cloth boards. 
 
10 
 
 WORKS RELATING TO INDIA 
 
 Select ot M^v&f CTiiarts, $(c. 
 
 Ma ps imported from India, 
 An ANGLO-HINDUSTANI MAP of INDIA, by J. B. 
 
 TASSIN. On Six Sheets on cloth, in a case, £4.; or on cloth, with roller, var- 
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 An ANGLO-PERSIAN MAP of INDIA, by J. B. 
 
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 MAP of the EASTERN FRONTIER of BRITISH 
 
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 MAP of the NORTH-WESTERN FRONTIER of 
 
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 MAP of UPPER ASSAM ; comprising the DISTRICTS 
 
 of JOORHAT, LUCKIMPORE, and SUDIYA. Shewing the TEA TRACTS 
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 MAP of the POST OFFICE STATIONS and POST 
 
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 A NEW and IMPROVED MAP of VARIOUS ROUTES 
 
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 cloth case, £2. 
 
 Maps published in England. 
 
 A MAP of INDIA, from the latest Surveys of the best 
 
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 A SMALLER MAP of INDIA, compiled from the latest 
 
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 MAP of the COUNTRIES on the NORTH-WEST 
 
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 Compiled by JOHN WALKER, Geographer to the Hon. East-India Company. 
 Four sheets, price 10s. (id., or on cloth in case, 17s. 6d. 
 
 MAP of the WESTERN PROVINCES of HINDOO- 
 
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 In this edition, the River Sutledge and the Southern Part of the Punjab are 
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PUBLISHED BY Wm. H. ALLEN AND CO. 
 
 11 
 
 MAP of CHINA and the ADJACENT COUNTRIES, 
 
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 INDEX, containing the Names and Geographical Posi- 
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 GENERAL CHART from ENGLAND to CHINA, 
 
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12 PUBLISHED BY Wm. H. ALLEN AND CO. 
 
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 THE 
 
 ASIATIC JOURNAI., 
 
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 CONTAINING 
 
 Original and Select Papers on Oriental 
 
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 Vols. I. to XXXIII. New Series (Jan. 1830 to Dec. 1840), 
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