| { E | | | : | 8 | | | a5 | | A a4 a3 | | L ee — fe Fhomas Bliork, Ae Spence, fk O Boroum, Ached Llliched by IS Cotman rf? 1816. si aa ee renee ENGRAVINGS OF SEPULCHRAL BRASSES NORFOLK AND SUFFOLK, TENDING TO ILLUSTRATE THE ECCLESIASTICAL, MILITARY, AND CIVIL COSTUME , AS WELL AS TO PRESERVE MEMORIALS OF ANCIENT FAMILIES IN THAT COUNTY. BY JOHN SELL COTMAN, ESQ. WITH AN INTRODUCTORY ESSAY BY DAWSON TURNER, ESQ, F.RS. FLSA, &e. SECOND EDITION, WITH ADDITIONAL PLATES, AND WITH NOTES BY SIR SAMUEL RUSH MEYRICK, LL.D. F.S.A. &. ALBERT WAY, ESQ. AND SIR N. HARRIS NICOLAS, K.C.M.G. VOL. I. “LONDON: HENRY G. BOHN, YORK STREET, COVENT GARDEN. MDCCCXXXIX. ENGRAVINGS OF SEPULCHRAL BRASSES NO RF OLE K, TENDING TO ILLUSTRATE THE ECCLESIASTICAL, MILITARY, AND CIVIL COSTUME AS WELL AS TO PRESERVE MEMORIALS OF ANCIENT FAMILIES IN THAT COUNTY. JOHN SELL COTMAN, ESQ. WITH AN INTRODUCTORY ESSAY BY DAWSON TURNER, ESQ. F.R.S. F.S.A. &c. SECOND EBDITION, WiTH ADDITI AND WITH NOTES BY SIR SAMUEL RUSH MEYRICK, LL.D. F.S.A. &c. ALBERT WAY, ESQ. AND SIR HARRIS NICOLAS, K.C.M.G. LONDON: HENRY G. BOHN, YORK STREET, COVENT GARDEN. MDCCCXXXVUI. Sn J. B. NICHOLS AND SON, 25, PARLIAMENT-STREET. PREFACE. Tue Author of this work, not aware at its commencement of the magnitude of his task, intended to have comprised in a single volume the Sepulchral Brasses of Nor- folk and Suffolk. In the former county, however, alone, he found so great a number, and those in general so curious, that he has been induced, with the concurrence of his friends, to restrict to Norfolk the present volume, having collected in another, limited to the sister county, an almost equally interesting, though smaller, series. Such a deviation from his original plan will, he trusts, prove acceptable to his sub- scribers in general, as enabling him more fully to display the riches of two counties, both eminently abounding in this branch of antiquarian research; while any person who wishes to possess only a single volume, may be certain of procuring the best specimens that the county comprises. In the double series he believes he has given a set of figures, which will convey an adequate idea of the costumes during the period when memorials of this kind were in use, and also will throw no small light upon the families, once the principal in the counties, a great proportion of which happily remains unto this day. For another reason, also, this work may prove acceptable, inasmuch as it tends to perpetuate a species of memorial fast vanishing from our churches: the hand of rapine, more quickly destructive than that of time, is inces- santly at work, and already some of the finest brasses represented in these pages are totally destroyed. But it is not to the antiquary and genealogist only, that the utility of a work of this nature is likely to be confined. The historical painter and classical admirer of the theatre may equally deduce from it the most faithful materials for their professions: every friend to the liberal arts may have an interesting view of their progress, by records of unquestionable authenticity; and, to sum up all, there is scarcely any department of elegant literature, in which the student may not find some light thrown upon his researches, by means of the figures engraven on Sepul- chral Brasses. They, also, who have pleasure in beautifying or illustrating their libraries, will, in these plates, meet with highly important additions to numerous of the most splendid works; especially Gough's Sepulchral Monuments, Dugdale’s Mo- nasticon and Baronage, Blomefield’s History of Norfolk, and Lysons’ Magna Britannia. iv PREFACE. If, now, the present selection fairly fulfil any of these purposes, little apology is neces- sary for offering it to the public. As an Introduction, a short historical essay upon these memorials is prefixed, borrowed principally from Gough’s Sepulchral Monu- ments and Strutt’s Ancient Dresses. It had been better, perhaps, had it been entirely copied; as, in the few instances, where it ventures without their guidance, the reader will perceive mistakes, for which the Author intreats the reader’s indulgence. The List of Plates is accompanied with brief notices of the persons and families repre- sented ; with remarks upon peculiarities in the figures; and with such inscriptions, as, though now torn from their places, may be collected from Gough, Weever, or Blomefield. A double Index had been projected ; but that here given, with the List of Plates just noticed, appeared so fully to answer the purpose, that on farther con- sideration it was found unnecessary. The gentlemen who have furnished him with impressions of brasses, or otherwise directed his research—the Rev. Thomas Dade, the Rev. John Homfray, Rev. James Layton, Rev. Thomas Kerrich, Rev. William Spurdens, Rev. John Grove Spurgeon, Rev. Thomas Talbot, Dawson Turner, Esq. Rev. Richard Turner,—these, and all those who have in any way assisted him in the prosecution of his work, the Author entreats to accept the tribute of his grateful acknowledgement—of his heartiest thanks; to the offering of which, he hopes it will not be considered invidious, if he adds, that it is to Mr. Talbot and Mr. Layton he is indebted for being able to lay this volume before the public: to the latter he owes whatever may be interesting, in a literary point of view; while, without the unwearied researches and equal liberality of the former, a great proportion of its most valuable contents never would have been in his possession—indeed, never could have been known to him. INTRODUCTION. Tur principle of pride or religion, respect or affection, which induced our forefathers to inclose a corpse in a coffin, before they committed it to the grave, was such as could be acted upon by the rich alone. The lower classes of society, even to the time of Elizabeth, had no other coffin than the winding-sheet. In many old country churches might lately be seen a wooden box, ridged, with one or two lids, which was used as a bier to inclose and carry out the poor dead. Coffins were anciently made of various materials—of brick, stone, wood, or lead : once a glass coffin was found near Walmesford, in Northamptonshire: the most com- mon, however, were of stone. The introduction of these is lost in the distance of time: they are traced from as early a period as the ninth century, and in the time of Henry III. were generally used; after which they are of rare occurrence, says Dart. Sayers, however, would lead us to enlarge their era two hundred years; and tells us that, in the reigns of Henry V. and VI. they were made with necks, distinguishing the head and shoulders. Wooden chests or tombs were introduced soon after the conquest. “ Burial in lead does not appear to have been adopted before the time of Edward I., and it then seems to have been confined to persons of high rank.” * The most ancient stone coffins were buried, many having been found in barrows; yet the principle which first operated being still continued, they were, as early as the ninth century, so little sunk, that the top was level with the ground, and, being within sight, became at once the cover and the memorial of the deceased : sometimes they were placed upon the surface itself, and their sides ornamented with carving, as was that before the south door of St. Nicholas’ chapel at Lynn. (Vide Architectural An- tiquities of Norfolk.) In these situations, the top was generally ridged, en dos @ dne, that it might throw off the wet, for its better preservation; and when the deceased was a religious, or latterly, perhaps, a layman, was usually ornamented with a large calvary cross, at first plain, but afterwards flory. Examples of these, with various degrees of richness or extravagance, are to be met with im most of our Norfolk churches. We sometimes meet with a large flat stone, having a small cross in the centre, and one at each corner. These, however, are not monumental stones, but have been altar-tables, and are thus marked, in allusion to the five wounds of Christ. The simple cross flory may, when found in a church or chancel, be concluded to be the memorial of some former rector; if it be joined with an escalop shell, it signifies that the deceased had been on a pilgrimage to. St. James of Compostella; the cross * Sayers’ Disquisitions, p. 204. | vi INTRODUCTION. | patée is the token of a Knight Templar. Where a sword is found with a cross or crosier, it denotes a union of temporal with spiritual authority. None of these sculp- tured coffins are probably anterior to the conquest. There are instances where a cross is on the lower part of the lid, and, on the upper, a head or bust in basso relievo. Contemporary with these is the full-length effigy in mezzo-relievo, of the same piece with the lid, and usually of dark, shelly marble, as the knight at Mautby, (Sup- plement, Plate I. page 53), and the lady at Stratton Strawless. Afterwards the coffin was inclosed in a monument, on the top of which was placed a recumbent statue of stone, or wood, or metal; which, improving in execution as the arts improved, and | varying in dress and posture as our customs have varied, has descended to our time. i} In the thirteenth century, we find the flat gravestone, level with the pavement, with an inscription engraven round its border, or inlaid with fillets, tablets, crosses, or effigies in brass. A cavity being cut in the stone, of the form, size, and depth of the plate of metal, this is bedded therein with pitch, and fixed with rivets to the stone. Those old letters, which now appear so deep and rudely cut, were only matrices for brass capitals, which, as they were too small to be riveted like larger plates, were sooner picked out, and yet the excavations are legible. The earliest of these upon record is that of Simon de Beauchamp, who completed the foundation of Newenham Abbey, and died before 1208, and was buried in front of the high altar, in St. Paul’s church, at Bedford, “ with this epitaphe graven in brass, and set on a flat marble stone :* “ De Bello campo jacet hic sub marmore Simon fundator de Newenham.” | | Jocelyn, Bishop of Wells, who died in 1242, had a brass in the choir there. } Richard de Berking, Abbot of Westminster, who died in 1246, had his figure in pon- | tificalibus, and an inscription on the ledge, in brass. Bishop Gravesend, 1279, had his figure inlaid with brass, in Lincoln Cathedral. So was it also with Bishop Longe- spée, 1297, at Salisbury; and with Elias de Beckenham, 1298, at Bottesham, Cam- bridgeshire. “ Ela, Countes of Warwick, a woman of very great riches and nobilite, lyethe under a very fair, flat marble, in the habit of a woues (vowess or nun) graven in a coper plate,” says Leland, who speaks as an eye-witness. She died 1300. These authorities assign an early date to brass figures; and, by the beginning of 1 | the fourteenth century, they were become so common, that, in 1308, a canon of Here- ford could afford a very handsome one, though it is still the oldest sepulchral brass now entire and well preserved that I have seen, says Gough, 1786. How fast such memorials multiplied after that period, may be judged of by the following instances in Norfolk alone. | Thomas de Cailey, Rector of West Bradenham from 1318 to 1324, had a brass in the chancel there. At the summit of the stone, in a niche like a quatrefoil, was the * Leland, Itin. i. fol. 116. + Leland, Itin, ii. fol. 19, viii. fol. 71. INTRODUCTION. vil head of a priest in brass, and a cross runs the length of the stone, with something couchant at the feet of it. The inscription in capitals round the rim, Continet. hec. fossa. Thome. nune. corpus. et ossa. Ecclesie. rector. hujus. extitit atque protector Gratia, queso. Dei. propitietur. ei —Blomef. vi. 146. William de Nieuport, Prebendary of Credington and Wells, and Rector of Reden- hale, 1326, had one with his figure, and an inscription in ancient capitals. Ici: gist: sire: Will: de: Nieuport: jadis: persone: de: ceste : eglise: prebend : de: Credington: et: de: Welles: qui: mil: ccc... priet : pur: V alme: que: Dieux: en: eit: merci: Amen: Blomef. v. 358. Blomefield (v. 194) describes a slab robbed of its brasses in St. Mary’s church, at Stratton, for Sir Roger de Bourne, who died in 1331. In our Lady’s chapel, at Hethersett church, he mentions an altar-tomb, having the portraiture of a knight armed cap-d-pied, with a sword hanging from his head, which lies on a cushion, his spurs on, and a lion at his feet ; he is in a surcoat of his arms, and hath his shield of them, viz. Bernak, Ermine a fess, gules. By him is his lady, with a dog at her feet; and on her mantle are the arms of Bernak impaling Driby, argent, three cinquefoils and a canton gules. The inscription was, Obitus Domini Willi de Bernak, m ccc xxxix. vi. mensis Aprilis. Obitus Domine Alicie de Bernak, mccc xu. x11. die Aprilis.—Blomef. v. 30. That of Sir Hugh Hastings, at Hlsing, is referred to 1347. That of Walter Stutelee, Rector of East Dereham, is but two years later; as also that of Sir Edmund Illey and his lady, at Holme Hale church, thus inscribed : Vous que cette tomb voies, pour les ames Edmond Illeye, Chevalier, et Alice, sa femme et les enfans priez. Blomef. vi. 13. The brass of Adam de Walsokne and wife, at Lynn, of the same date, is in the highest state of perfection, and is followed in fifteen years by its compeer, that of Robert Braunch and his two wives. From this period down to the time of the first Charles they are very common: one occurs so late as 1702, for John Somers, at Cerne, in Dorset, and even in 1776, for the learned Jeremiah Markland, in Dorking church. Figures are sometimes engraven in the stone itself, and not inlaid with metal. The earliest instance of this species of insculpture is at Wyberton, in Lincolnshire, and commemorates Adam de Franton and his wife Sibilla, 1325. In Derbyshire they are common; but in Norfolk I have met with only two: one is at Geystwick; the other at Dersingham, which covers the grave of John Pell, 1607, and is given in this work, Plate LXXXVIII. More frequent is the inscription cut between two straight lines, and forming a border to the stone. vill INTRODUCTION. On the continent are * brasses bearing as early a date, or at least commemorating persons who died at as early a period, as in our own country. A plate OL copper enamelled, in the church of St. Julien, at Mans, exhibits the figure of Geoffroi le Bel, Comte de Maine, who died 1150. A second instance, and perhaps more coeval with the person whom it represents, is that of Robert de Suzanne, king of arms, who died in 1260. Both these are engraven in Montfaucon’s Monum. de la Mon. Frangaise, ii. t. 12. f. 7, and t. 29. f.3. Margaret, Queen of France, consort of St. Louis, who died 1295, had a tomb plated with brass (tombe platte de cuivre) in the church of St: Denys. In the same church, among several other brasses, were those of Mathieu de Vendosme, Gilles de Pontoise, and Guy de Castres, Abbots of St. Denys, who died in the years 1286, 1326, 1350, respectively. Many figures, in the same style, appear to have been engraven in stone (pierre de liais). (Vide Felibien’s Histoire de ? Abbaye de St. Denys.) A brass plate, in a church at Arras, was engraven with the figure of a man bareheaded, with short curled hair, in a close round coat down to the feet, fastened round the waist with a girdle, from which depends on the right side a purse, and on the left a short sword. On his left is his wife, ina gauze head-dress, extend- ing wide behind, but close in front, and square at the top, with an embroidered kirtle, and flowing mantle. The head of each is supported by a pillow. Their hands are closed, pointing upwards, and two dogs are seated at their feet. At the upper corners two angels hold the carpet, which is the ground of the plate, and on which the persons appear to recline. This commemorates Robert le Jove, Bailly d’ Amiens et Gouver- neur d’ Arras, et Dame I’ Aiguicourt sa feme, and is dated 1463. Engraven stones are to be seen in abundance in the north of France (they may be equally common all over it); but at Rouen and St. Omer they are particularly beautiful. Now all those above-mentioned are executed in the style of the brasses at Lynn. They are not mere effigies let into the stone; but are large sheets of metal, covering the whole, and, where not occupied by the effigies itself, are filled with tabernacle work, or represent an embroidered carpet. It is further observable, that, in the brasses in France, and those at Elsing and Lynn, the effigies have cushions under their heads, which are to be found in none other of that epoch in Norfolk: this * T ought, perhaps, rather to have spoken in the past tense; the French Revolution having been even more destructive to such memorials abroad, than the times of our own Commonwealth were with us. + See Stothard’s Monumental Effigies, Plate 1I. There is no authority for attributing this monu- mental plate to Geoflry Plantagenet, whose arms were, or are said to have been, Gules a chief argent, over all an escarbuncle of eight points pomelty fleury or, while those on the shield, which appears in profile, are Azure four lions (or six if displayed) or. Stothard seems to have relied on Montfaucon. The arms mentioned by the monk of Marmoustier were lions in a field gules instead of azure, which has been the traditionary blazon from the conquest of the bearing of England ; and there is nothing in the Latin inscription on the plate to fix it to Geoffry. It is with much more probability referred by Sandford to William D’Evreux, Earl of Salisbury, the father of Ela, wife of William Longespee ; for it is more likely that the latter would take the paternal arms to the earldom than those of his grand- father (if such they were), especially as he was an illegitimate grandson. We must, therefore, take from the antiquity of this enamelled plate at least fifty years. S.R.M. INTRODUCTION. ix feature seems more decidedly to indicate their being of the same family. Two brasses, which, there is every reason to suppose, are of the same period as those at Lynn, and were probably executed by the same artist, are found in Hertfordshire: one, in the abbey church of St. Alban’s, commemorates Abbat Thomas De la Mare, who died 1396; but this representation was certainly executed at an earlier time, very probably about 1356, when he solicited permission from Edward III. to retire from the station of Abbat:: or else, on the completion of the extensive buildings shortly after projected by him, at St. Alban’s. This, like the Lynn brasses, is composed of several sheets, forming together one immense plate of metal, 9 feet 3 by 4 feet 4: it is engraved by Carter, in his Ancient Sculpture and Painting. See Plate XXXIII, new edition. A second, doubtless by the same hand, though inferior in size, and not formed like the others of one plate, the effigy being detached from the tabernacle work which surrounds it, may, however, vie with the rest in elegant design and delicate workmanship. It represents an ecclesiastic, probably an incumbent of the church of North Mimms, where it exists: and although no clue has yet been found to identify the person, it is doubtless of the same period as the other, about the middle of the fourteenth century. This has been etched by Blore, in Clutterbuck’s History of Herts, i. 464. It is worthy of remark, that on none of these brasses, which exhibit the most lavish display of ornament, appear indications of the beautiful art of enamelling having been employed to give variety and relief to the intricate design. As, however, we find that in the brass of Sir Hugh Hastings, some parts in which regular cross hatchings appear, were originally enamelled, a representation of which is given in the Ancient Painting, Plate LXXI, it is possible that enamel may have been similarly introduced in these. Indeed it may be a question, whether, besides the practice of enamelling parts of the field, or ground of the plate, which usually were hollowed out, to receive a layer of the coloured composition, the engravers of brasses did not also heighten the effect of their work by filling up the lines themselves, in common instances with some black composition, but occasionally with colour or enamel. Their elegance, too, and beauty, when compared with their contemporary at Ingham, or even with any which succeeded them, compel us, if not to grant to France the honour of the invention, at least to acknowledge that her artists had, in sculpture, advanced immeasurably before their brethren of England.* The intercourse with the continent, through the port of Lynn, enabled the wealthy merchants and manufacturers of that ancient town to obtain the richest brasses; and it is a circumstance worth notice, that these brasses are not in one entire piece, but composed of several squares, for the greater convenience of packing and importation. It was probably owing to the interest excited by these early ex- * This fact I believe to be undoubted ; and they had outstripped us in architecture at least as much as in sculpture ; but, upon the origin of the Sepulchral Brasses, I have just seen an opinion by a sen- sible and well-informed writer in the Gentleman’s Magazine for April, 1818, p. 299, that « they were invented in Flanders, and sent to England, chiefly from Ghent, and are therefore found to abound chiefly in those countries which supplied the Flemings with wool.” A.W, b x INTRODUCTION. amples, that this species of sepulchral monument came to be generally adopted in Norfolk, which, above every other county, abounds in brasses, commemorating her knights, and citizens, and yeomen. The hand of rapine or of fanaticism has robbed her of by far the greater part of what she once possessed: every effigy in her Cathe- dral church at Norwich, every morsel of brass at Yarmouth, is gone; nor is there a village church but bears the mark of the despoiler’s violence.. A portion of the mis- chief is to be traced as high as the Reformation ; still more is ascribable to the mad fury of the Commonwealth; and what remained from these has in our days gradually been disappearing : here, from the ignorant stupidity of parish officers ; there, from the thievishness of workmen; but, in too many instances, | am sorry to say, from the inconceivable folly and villany of antiquaries themselves, who have been the cause of an immense number of sepulchral brasses, and of a still greater quantity of painted glass, being stolen from the churches which they illustrated and adorned. This work, however, contains a selection from above three hundred whole-length figures yet remaining, besides numerous busts. I ought to have said lately remaining ; for, in 1800, the chancel at Ingham was completely swept of all its beautiful memorials of the Stapleton family. They were sold as old metal, and it was commonly reported by whom they were sold and bought; but nobody sought to recover them: neither minister nor churchwarden cared for any of those things. Mr. Gough has mentioned an instance, in Norton Disney church, Lincolnshire, of a brass, bearing a Dutch inscription, having been turned and engraven with an effigy, about 1580. A similar instance of economy, though not on so large a scale, occurs in the stone of Anna Clere, at Stokesby, in 1570. A brass tablet, longer than was wanted, but not of sufficient width, was cut into three pieces, and thus made to answer the purpose. The middle piece is gone: the lower, being loose, discovers part of an inscription in bold Roman characters, finely relieved, and very sharply cut. There is sufficient of it to show that it also is Dutch, but not the purport. It is by no means uncommon, on turning up those tablets which bear merely an inscription, to find them cut from some effigy; and in one instance, a tablet to the memory of a man in the sixteenth century, bears on the reverse a like memorial of one in the century preceding. These, however, we may suppose were spoils of the monasteries sacked and pillaged by Henry VIII. rather than the fruits of that system of petty thieving, which, ere long, will equally clear our churches. Some of the brasses were enamelled in various colours. That of Sir Hugh Hastings was so; and Mr. Carter has given a plate of one of the smaller figures, as it originally appeared. See Ancient Sculpture and Painting, Plate LX XI, new edit. The fillet of jewellery round the head of Joan, lady of Sir Miles Stapleton, 1365, at Ingham, was represented by composition of different colours, which, in spite of ill usage, remained entire till 1800. The surcoat of the knight also was enamelled; so was the brass of Sir Ralph Shelton and lady, at Great Snoring: that of L’Estrange, at Hunstanton, bears to this day marks of brilliant enamelling ; likewise does that of Sir Simon Felbrigge, standard-bearer to Richard IL, at Felbrigge, where gilding is added INTRODUCTION. xi to heighten the effect of the heraldic tinctures. This art of enamelling flourished particularly at Limoges, in France: Charpentier observes, that it was a frequent orna- ment of the most sumptuous tombs. Occasionally some parts of the dress are repre- sented by lead, as in the case of Sir Thomas Sherborn and lady, 1418. Lead is fre- quently intermixed with brass, in coats of arms. In the chapel -belonging to the Berneys, at Reedham, 1504, the shields, inlaid at the corners of the stone, are lead, blazoned in their proper colours.* It was a custom at Wadhurst, in Sussex, where there were iron-founderies, and in the neighbourhood, when a person was buried within the church, to lay, in place of a stone, a thick iron plate, with the name, arms, &c. of the deceased cast thereon. In Yarmouth church, to the wall of the north aisle, is affixed a similar plate, with an inscription cast in relievo, to the memory of George England, 1674. There is little difference in the attitudes of those statues which were placed on coffins, or monuments. They are all recumbent, with the head supported by a cushion, till about 1350, and subsequently by a crested helmet, and with the feet resting against some animal. Till about 1230, we find a knight drawing his sword, and the bishop and abbot with the hand uplifted, as in the act of blessing}: from that time, nearly all have the hands joined over the breast, in the attitude of prayer. The case is much the same with the brass figures; unless, indeed, they may be supposed to stand, rather than lie, the generality having neither cushion nor helmet under the head. The husband has his wife on the left hand; but the exceptions from this rule are frequent. At the end of the fifteenth century they commonly face each other, and are often kneeling: sometimes, when in this attitude, after the Reformation, a book lies open before them on a desk, termed a prie-Dieu, and, instead of in- treating the prayers of the passers-by, they pray for themselves. Sir John Spelman and lady are thus represented at Narburgh, in 1545, with the prayer issuing from their lips. From some plates the phrases ‘ Orate pro anima,’ and ‘ cujus anime pro- pitietur Deus’ have been effaced, lest, being obnoxious to the zeal of the Puritans, the plates themselves should have been torn away. Croisaders, not they only who served in the Holy Wars, but they also who contributed pecuniarily, or vowed to serve, or even to visit the Holy Sepulchre, are cross-legged, usually with the right leg over the left. Founders have models of churches in their hands; and priests, robed according to the respective orders or degrees, hold chalices or bibles. Alice Clere, 1538, at Ormesby, has a heart between her hands, like Agatha de Narburgh, 1293. Norfolk does not contain a single example of the cross-legged effigy in brass. There are two in the neighbouring county, (vid. Selection of Suffolk Brasses, Plates I. and II.) at Acton and at Gorleston. The former is a memorial of Robert de * The metallic composition, which is of very frequent occurrence in parts of sepulchral brasses, resembling lead, but usually much harder than that metal, was probably only a ground upon which the enamel or other colouring was applied. A.W. + Abbots usually held the crosier with the right hand, bishops with the left. xii INTRODUCTION. Buers. In Buers church was an inscription, as given by Weever, “ Hic jacet Andreas de Buers, et Robtus de Buers, fili? ejusdem Andree milit}, qui Andreas obiit 12 die Aprilis A° Dili 1360, et détus Robtus obiit 7 die mensis Octob. A° Diii 1361, quot aiab®, &e.” Yet does Gough suppose this Robert to have been buried at Acton, and to be represented by this effigy; but so ill do his mail armour and long surcoat agree with the costume of that day, that I would rather suppose it the grandfather of Sir Andrew than his son, and date it about 1300.* Whom the effigy at Gorleston represents 1 have no means of guessing. Report ascribes it to a Bacon. By the vambraces and gousettes of plate, it appears rather later than the other. The first instance of them that Iam acquainted with, is on the monument of Aymer de Valence, 1323. (Vid. Stothard’s Monum. Effigies.) Only two others are known. One at Trumpington is supposed to cover Sir Roger de Trumpington, 1289. The other at Chartham, in Kent, represents a Septvans (Gough says Sir William Septvans, who was living in 1382). Could we suppose it Sir Robert Septvans, con- temporary with Sir Roger de Trumpington, it would better agree with the description given of it in Sepulchr. Mon. ii. 108+ The three last-mentioned effigies have those standing ailettes or pennons behind them, termed gonfanons +; and they are the only instances among all our sepulchral monuments. Those of the figure at Gorleston are charged with the cross of St. George ; the others with the arms of the wearers. These gonfanons are common on French monuments. Sir Jerre de Bleneu, 1285; Robert fifth Karl of Dreux, 1329; and several intermediate examples, are mentioned by Gough: and before 1329, I would, judging by the dress, date the latest instance in our country. Children, when depictured on their parents’ gravestone, are usually grouped. Sons kneel behind their father, or stand about his feet ; and daughters are with their mother; as on the stone of Roger Felthorp, at Blickling, 1454: sometimes they are close ranged in a line beneath, as the sixteen children of William Yelverton, at Rougham, 1586 ; at other times they stand on separate pedestals, as the Cremers, at Snettisham, 1610; or have their names subscribed, as under the Symondes, at Cley, 1518. Where a man has a family by two wives, care is taken that each mother shall * By the note contributed by Mr. Gage to the new edition, it will be seen this figure is of the date 1331. + The brass at Chartham appears to be nearly contemporary with that at Acton, and would seem by a few letters of the inscription, which may be decyphered, to represent William de Septvans, son of Sir Robert de Septvans; he died 16 Edw. II. 1322-3. If this be correct, the brass at Acton, to which it is certain that the inscription aboye quoted had no reference, may probably be assigned to Robert de Bures, who died 5 Edw. III. 1331: and this supposition is confirmed by comparison with the brass at Stoke Dabernon, Surrey, which is similar in character and execution to the others, but the legs are not crossed. This last by the inscription appears to represent Sir John de Abernoun, senior, who was returned by the sheriff in 1822, as too infirm to attend a summons to the great council. See Parl. Writs. A.W. { They were perhaps sometimes so termed, but their proper name is ailettes (or little wings). See the authorities in Sir S. R. Meyrick’s Critical Enquiry into Antient Armour. ; 3 The gonfanons were, strictly speaking, the small flags, like ships’ vanes, at the end of lances. S. R.M. INTRODUCTION. xiii have the honour only of her own. Under the brass figures of two of the Carew family, at Beddington, 1414, the children are represented by thirteen busts. The effigies of children on the parents’ tomb are not common till the end of the fifteenth century. If “ the glory of children are their fathers,” at this time the fathers appear to have had no less glory in many children, and omit not an opportunity of displaying it; nay, so zealous were they, that their deceased offspring are repre- sented in winding-sheets, but a little apart from their living brethren. Richard Calthorp, 1554, pourtrays on his gravestone the effigies of nineteen children; and the stone of William Berdewell, at West Herling, in 1460, commemorates a family of thirty sons and daughters. : The heads of military men (prior to 1350), and those of kings, ladies, ecclesi- astics, and burgesses, when represented recumbent, rest on cushions, single or double, called, in the Lincolnshire church notes of 1629, in the British Museum, a “ pillow and bolster.” On each side of these is usually placed an angel, emblematic perhaps of the ministering angels, who are ever about the path and bed of the faithful, smooth the pillow of the dying, and carry the disembodied soul to receive the blessing of its Maker. This last part of their office is shown on the Elsing brass, where, as from the head of the knight, two angels are carrying to heaven in a sheet his glorified spirit. On the Lynn brasses, the soul is traced to its utmost stage, and is seated in the bosom of the Father; to whom the angels are offering incense, and in whose praise they are striking their celestial harps. The most beautiful example of this is given by Gough, ii. p. 311, from the monument of Lady Percy, at Beverley Minster. In no writer do I find a satisfactory account of the animals placed at the feet of effigies. A knight has generally a lion, sometimes a dog; and Sir Bryan Stapleton, on his brass at Ingham, rests one foot on a lion and the other on a dog, whose name “ Jakke” is written on a label: other animals are occasionally found in the same situation.* The dog is almost constantly sitting at the ladies’ feet. In many in- stances, they are doubtless the cognizance, or supporter of the arms of the deceased, as the white horse at the feet of the Earls of Arundel ; or a rebus of the name, as the rabbit on the brass of Walter Coney, in St. Margaret’s church, Lynn: but this solution affects few cases. Readily, therefore, do I adopt the opinion of Dawson Turner, esq. whose suggestions I ever gladly follow, as the beacon conducting me to the right point, that the lion is there meant the type of strength and courage, qualities of course inherent in every knight; and the dog, of attention and fidelity, virtues inseparable from the female character: for chivalry boasts that all her sons are brave, and all her daughters virtuous. This explanation, however, will not solve the enigma on the great Lynn brasses. Gough says, “ Under the feet of Robert Braunch is a singular, but classical repre- sentation of Prometheus and the Vulture.” If it be allowable to differ from such au- thority, I would say, that the fable of Prometheus entered not into the designer’s * At Deerhurst, Gloucestershire, are brasses of Sir John Cassy, who died 1400, and his lady, at whose feet is a little dog with the name “ Terri” inscribed on a label. A. W. xiv INTRODUCTION. thoughts; but, as over the heads of the effigies he has given us his idea of heaven above, so in this case does he give us that of hell beneath; with the infidel in tor- ments, fallen under the power of the evil one, “ the lion that walketh about, seeking whom he may devour ;” “ the great dragon, whose abode is in the bottomless pit.” The effigy is generally intended to represent the person as alive: nobles and burgesses, priests and laymen, all are attired in their richest apparel. Occasionally in the fifteenth century, and more frequently afterwards, an attempt is made to show the present state of the deceased and the change he has undergone, by the figure of a skeleton, or of a corpse in a shroud tied over the head and feet. There are many of this species of monitory memorial in Norfolk, and I have given a selection exhibiting its varieties. The skeleton of Thomas Childes, 1452, at St. Lawrence’s church, Nor- wich, is an early specimen. At Rougham, the swaddling-clothes of two infants become their winding-sheets. On the stone of Archdeacon Rudyng, 1482, atBiggleswade, Death, under the image of a skeleton, armed with several spears, is holding a dialogue with his victim. At the distance of nearly a century, he appears again, under the same form, at Lowes- toft, in Suffolk ; where “ mortifera tela cruenta manu Mors fera visceribus torsit” of Thomas Annot, in 1577. The barrow, the gigantic and truly wonderful monument of early times, ill ac- complished the purpose for which it was raised: the name of its tenant, and the memory of his deeds, soon passed away. It bears, however, a testimony widely dif- ferent from that of the monument of our days. While this, attributing to the de- ceased such a combination of virtue and talent as man possesses not, proves the pride merely that existed in his bosom or in that of his heir, or possibly the blind affection of a sorrowing individual; that shows the gratitude and enthusiastic admiration of a people, thus urged to such an enormous expense of labour, at a time when money existed not, and fame could not be purchased. The simple tablet of brass has done better, and, in many instances, has delivered to the successive generations of nearly six hundred years the name committed to its charge; with a request, that all who read it would pray for the deceased, and that God would have mercy upon his soul; leaving it to us to infer that, raised a little above his contemporaries in wealth and influence, he was in all other respects such an one as ourselves. For many ages after the conquest, learning, even in its humblest forms, being con- fined to the clergy, upon them devolved the office of writing epitaphs; and the Latin language was generally adopted. Norman French, however, was introduced in the thirteenth century. The epitaphs of Robert de Vere, Earl of Oxford, 1221, and of William de Tracy, 1223, are the first in this tongue, and are followed, at the distance of fifty years, by that of Henry III. ; afterwards, instances of it occur more and more frequently, till, by 1350, it became as common as Latin, and continued so till the begin- ning of the next century, when it suddenly disappeared, the latest instance recorded by Gough being on the brass of Sir John Cobham, 1407. It is to be observed, that it very seldom was used but for the laity; though the epitaph of William de Nieuport, INTRODUCTION. Xv 1326, rector of Redenhale, before mentioned, shows that it was not wholly confined to them. About the time that French ceased on our monuments, English probably began to take its place; the first instance of it, that I meet with, being on the brass of Judge Notingham, 1414, at Holm by the Sea, in this county. Our native language, however, but seldom occurs before the reign of Henry VII.; then it is frequent; and, by the middle of the sixteenth century, in common use, and had completely superseded the Latin. Turning from language itself to the mode of representing it, I transcribe the fol- lowing, from Sayers’ Disquisitions (p. 205), as illustrative of the subject before me : “ Saxon characters, or characters much resembling them, commonly denominated Langobardic, were chiefly used in inscriptions on tombs, &c. from the time of the Norman conquest, till the beginning of the fourteenth century.* The Gothic letter, ‘ or church text,’ then prevailed, and continued in use in sepulchral and other brasses and tablatures till about the end of the sixteenth century, when the Roman character was revived. I have said revived, because it may be inferred, I imagine, from the inscription on the tomb of Arthur, discovered at Glastonbury by Henry IL., that the Roman letters, or most of them at least, had been adopted by the Britons in the sixth century, or before that time. On the cross of Ovinus, mentioned in Bentham’s Ely, and deemed to be a work of the seventh century, the Roman character again occurs. It afterwards appears at various, though unequal and distant intervals. Very few of the letters on the coffin-lid of Gundreda, daughter of the Conqueror, the wife of Harl Warren, 1081, at Southover church, Sussex, partake of the Saxon form: those on the stone of Roger, Bishop of Salisbury, 1139, are altogether Roman ; as is the inscription on the tomb of Philippa Duchess of York, 1431, and those on the brasses of Sir Robert Clere, at Ormesby, 1529, and of Sir Thomas Boleyn, father of the Queen, Earl of Wiltshire and Ormond, 1539, in Hever church. The Roman letters continued also to be cut on brass during the reign of Edward VI., and part of Elizabeth’s, but not so frequent. “ Before the disuse of the Langobardic letter, a small cross was prefixed to the legend. Iam not aware that the figure of a fish (the emblem of our Saviour) was ever so common upon the tombs of this country, as upon those of the Christians at Rome. It occurs, however, on some monuments of the sixteenth century: as on that of Bishop Stanley, in the collegiate church of Manchester, and on that of Cardinal Pole, in Canterbury Cathedral. It is said by Prosper to have been adopted from an union of the initials of the following words—Iyjcous Xprrros, Ocov Vics, Borne. aanenlertens AX Q are also, I believe, very rarely to be met with on sepulchral tablets in this island. They are not unfrequent in Catholic countries, or at least in * He should have said the middle of the fourteenth century; the first recorded instance of Gothic or church text being on the brass of William de Rotherselle, 1351; and the last instance of the Lango- bardic, on the stone covering the bowels of Bishop Skirlaw, at Howden, in Yorkshire, 1405. This latter, however, mixed with Roman capitals, formed the circumscription of our seals, according to Gough, to the sixteenth century. Xvi INTRODUCTION. Italy, where they chiefly appear in inscriptions of the eleventh and twelfth centuries ; an engraving, however, of a very old tablet, probably of the seventh century, in which these letters occur, may be seen in Montfaucon. (Travels in Italy, 8vo, p. 129.) The letters IHS, which occur in our churches, &c. are erroneously deemed to be the initials of ‘ Jesus Hominum Salvator,’ as the H is an Eta, and the whole is an ancient and common contraction of the word Iycous.” Arabic numerals never appear on sepulchral monuments before the middle of the fifteenth century; till that time dates were always expressed in words or a circumlo- cution of phrases, or in Roman or Romano-Lombardic capitals.. The first instance of Arabic numerals that I have met with in Norfolk, is on the brass of William Yelverton, at Rougham, 1481. The date, 1452, on the brass of Katharine Howard, Duchess of Norfolk, at Stoke, in the adjoining county, being copied from Weever, is of no authority ; as he frequently expresses in Arabic numerals, that which on the monu- ment is given in words. In turning from these subjects to the costume of our fathers, and the various changes or improvements it underwent from the influence of caprice or the progress of knowledge, a wider field lies before me; and the subject will be best understood by inspection of the plates themselves: yet the following remarks, extracted principally from the Introduction to Gough’s Sepulchral Monuments, a work not within the reach of readers in general, may, perhaps, in this place, be not altogether without their use. Though the monuments, commemorating some of the burgesses at Lynn, and exemplifying the civil costume, are among the earliest, and are far the most splendid of the kind to be met with in this county, or perhaps in the whole kingdom, I shall, nevertheless, begin with noticing the military habit, as at that time almost every dis- tinguished layman adopted the profession of arms. Armour may be divided into mail and plated. By mail, I mean that which was composed of rings, commonly double, or small circular plates, as contradistinguished from the large plates, which were fastened by straps and buckles, and which gradually encroached upon the former. Mail itself appears to have been of two kinds. First, Rings, mutually interlinked, so that each is connected with four others; the kind generally represented on brasses. Second, Chains, or detached rings, or circular plates, sewed on a leathern or woollen garment, and overlapping each other like scales.* An ancient writer describes a knight as arming himself in the following manner : “ He first drew on the Chausses, or breeches of mail; he then put on a Goubaison, or Gambeson, a vestment fitted to the body, and reaching to the middle of the thighs ; to this succeeded the Gorget, called in French hausse col ; and over the gorget he placed a Hauberk, or shirt of mail, which reached to his knees; and the breeches, or hose of mail, were attached to the hauberk; so was also a Capuchon, or hood of mail, * This subject is treated of at great length in my paper in the xixth vol. of the Archwologia, on * the Body Armour anciently worn in England,” and in that on the « Military Garments formerly worn in England.” S.R.M, INTRODUCTION. xvii which covered the head, and might occasionally be thrown back upon the shoulders. The hauberk was girt with a large belt, or girdle of leather, called anciently in French Baudrier, and in English Baudricke, and from which the Sword depended: besides the sword, the knight usually wore a small knife or Dagger, called Mercy ; because, when a combatant was cast to the ground, and saw the knife in the hand of his oppo- nent, he begged for mercy, if he desired to be respited from death.”* By a leathern girdle} round the neck hung a Shield; the heels were equipped with Spurs, the insignia of his dignity. These were of two sorts: { one, with a single point, called a pryck ; the other, consisting of a number of points, radiating from, and revolving on, a centre, and thence termed the rouelle, or wheel-spur: the first prevailed till the middle of the fourteenth century, though the other was occasionally used. Over all, men of considerable family wore surcoats, charged with their armorial bearings. At first, the mail, which protected the head and throat, was part of the same piece which covered the whole body with the arms; but, as this much confined the motion of the head, it was, before 1300, separated, and formed a hood, falling on the breast and shoulders, and over the hauberk. Over this appears to have been worn a steel helmet, somewhat resembling an inverted kettle. Of this helmet we have no example on brasses, nor have we any of the hood of mail in Norfolk, though in Suffolk there are two, at Acton and Gorleston. (Vid. Suffolk Brasses.) About the beginning of the reign of Edward III., this double covering was simplified, and the mail pro- tecting the throat (the Camail,{) was neatly attached, by studs and a silk cord, to a pointed steel scull-cap, termed a basinet, || such as that worn by Sir Miles Stapleton ; and this continued about one hundred years. The helmet of Sir Hugh Hastings is of rare occurrence: it is a round steel cap, fastened probably with a thong, having a visor (visiere), which falls upon, and is fitted to, a broad steel collar or gorget, embracing the neck, and coming so high as to protect the chin also: the visor is represented as lifted up, and so are those of three knights, at the side of his canopy. Thomas Earl of Lancaster, eldest son of Edmund Crouchback, who was beheaded at Pontefract in 1322, is the first we know whose helmet is surmounted by a Crest.4] The gambeson (called also haketon,** jaque, and by a variety of other names,) * Vide Strutt’s Dresses, ii. p. 171. + This was termed the Guige or Gige ; hence Chaucer’s expression, which has puzzled all his com- mentators, “‘ gigging their shields.” S.R.M. t There was another that preceded these, termed the spear-spur, which had an elongated pyramid of iron, and is apparent in Anglo-Saxon and Frankish illuminations, as well as in the Bayeux tapestry. Specimens are preserved in the principal armoury at Goodrich Court. S.R.M. § So called from its resemblance to the camalaucum or tippet of camel’s hair, S.R.M. || The only specimen of the basinet of Edw. IJ. and Edw. ITI.’s time is at Goodrich Court. It came from Naples. S,R.M. {{ Except in equestrian figures on seals. S.R.M. ** The distinction is clearly pointed out in Sir R. Meyrick’s paper in the Archexologia before mentioned. c xviii INTRODUCTION. was a kind of long double waistcoat of buckram or leather, and stuffed with wool, tow, or hair (in itself no inconsiderable defence), for the purpose of making the iron shirt sit more easy upon the body, and also of breaking the stroke of the lance, which, though unable to pierce the mail, might otherwise have driven it into the flesh. The hauberk, or coat of mail, with sleeves and gloves, stockings and shoes, was the great defence of the body, and is sometimes understood to be the whole mail- armour of a knight. Between this and the haubergeon we are told there was a dif- ference, but in what this difference consisted we are nowhere (that I know) clearly informed : according to Grose, the latter wanted the sleeves of the former, and was a less complete covering.* Collecting, however, all that Iam able on the subject, I venture to put it as a question (rather than an opinion), whether the haubergeon was not the lighter hauberk, or shirt of mail, worn in the fourteenth century, strengthened and supported by the breastplate, and other pieces of plate-armour, which helped to defend the limbs. Immediately under the hauberk was a gorget, or throat-piece; a collar of steel fitted to the throat, for its better protection. This, probably, was the source or beginning of the breastplate, afterwards adopted for the greater security of the breast ; and which last itself eventually became the cuirass, in the fifteenth cen- tury, when the haubergeon was laid aside. Mail armour, to use the words of Gough, maintained its ground from the Nor- man conquest to the reign of Henry IV., who is the last of our Kings that appears in it on his great seal. But this must be understood as having respect to the body only : it had gradually fallen into disuse for the limbs during the preceding century. The same author goes on to say, that when plated armour came into fashion, it was com- posed of different pieces for the back, breast, shoulders, arms, hands, thighs, knees, legs, and feet, under the several names of cuirass (comprising a back and breastplate), pauldrons, brassarts or gardebras, or vambraces (avant bras), gauntlets, cuissarts with genouillieres, greaves,-- and iron shoes. The vambraces included all the defence of the arm, from the shouldert to the wrist. At the joint or bend they were cut ob- liquely ; and the vacancies on the inside, when the arms were extended, were pro- tected by plates, called goussetts, § of various forms, as hearts, circles, ovals, irregular triangles, and squares, more or less adorned. Sometimes these arm-pieces, in the upper division, or from the elbow to the shoulder, left the mail-shirt partially bare, or only covered the outer part of the arm ; and sometimes the shoulder-pieces were divided into several scales or folds, at a greater or less distance from each other. The other gauntlets were of mail: afterwards they were made of small plates of * It did not reach so low down as the hauberk. S.R.M. + Called also jambs and sollorets. S.R.M. { From the elbow to the wrist, while that from the elbow to the shoulder was termed the rerebrace or arriére bras. S.R.M. § The goussetts or gussets were the pieces of mail applied to the arm-pits, the bends of the elbows, and knees, and also the insteps. Gussets of plate were not known before the time of Henry VII, and then only used as protections to the arm-pits. §.R.M. INTRODUCTION. xix iron or steel, riveted together in imitation of a lobster’s tail, so as to yield to every motion of the hand: some inclosed the whole hand in one case; others were divided into fingers, each finger consisting of eight or ten joints, lined with buff leather like a glove: in general, they reached no higher than to the wrist. To the back part of the cuirass was affixed a piece of armour, called Garde de reins, or Culettes.* The cuisses were composed either of stripes of iron plate, laid horizontally over each other and riveted together, or of an entire upper and under casing, and sometimes only an upper, leaving the part next the horse bare: they were made flexible at the knees, by joints or knee-pieces. The cuisses are sometimes studded, as are those of Sir Miles Stapleton, 13 and the studs are occasionally ornamented, assuming the form of leaves or flowers. The knee-pieces of Sir Hugh Hastings have pointed bosses, and also those of King Edward III., on the same brass ; and subsequently, at the distance of two hundred years, those of L’Estrange. Those of Robert de Buers (Suffolk Brasses) are highly ornamented, as are his cuisses. Cuisses of mail are termed chausses.-- The greaves were either of iron plates or cases, covering only the front of the leg, and fastened with straps round the leg; or of two pieces, united by hinges, and em- bracing the whole. We occasionally find both the greaves and the cuisses formed by straight bars of steel down the front and outsides of the thigh and legs, and fastened by rivets to the mail, as in the instance of Sir Guy Bryan, 1390. (Stothard’s Mon. Eff.) Until about 1320 they had sabatons of mail conforming to the shape of the foot; subsequently they had iron shoes, with joints at the instep, frequently of mail. These shoes, during the reign of Edward III., became very long-toed and sharp- pointed, { and continued sharp generally during the following century, though occa- sionally very broad-toed shoes are to be met with. It must be observed, that the iron covered the upper part only of the foot, and was kept firm by straps underneath. The most common spur, till the time of Edward III., is that called the pryck, or single point: such is that of John of Eltham, 1334. The sword, universally of the stabbing or long kind, was either worn perpendi- cularly by the side, or across the leg in front; but this fashion did not become common till after 1450. The shield was suspended by a strap passing over the right shoulder : it was triangular; and, when the Normans first came over, was at top nearly semi- cylindrical. Its length was uncertain; sometimes covering more than half the body, as does that of William Marshal, Earl of Pembroke; at other times not half a yard long, and, when flat, is now commonly called the heater shield. When arms were put on shields, they were frequently adorned with beautiful work termed Diapering ; of which we have an example in the maunche of Sir Hugh Hastings, at Elsing, 1347, which is both the smallest and the last instance of the shield that I have met with. * The front was similarly protected. S.R.M. + The chausses covered the whole of the legs and feet. S,R.M. t There is a very fine pair at Goodrich Court of this date, stamped with the name of Pope Urban V. in the letters of the time. S.R.M. xX INTRODUCTION. On the right breast of Sir Miles Stapleton, great-grandson of the founder of Ingham Priory, 1466, is what I suppose the Rest for the spear, an addition not uncom- mon about that time. Over the armour was the surcoat, a garment of stuff, at first long, reaching even to the feet, but gradually shortening, till, by 1370, it was no longer than the body, on which were embroidered the arms of the knight.* It received several names, depend- ing probably on some slight alteration in its form. The surcoat of Sir Miles Stapleton I believe to have been termed a cointise ;} for I read, in Strutt’s Dresses, of a coin- tise of red silk, powdered with mullets of silver. The surcoat in question was green, with gold spots. This perhaps was worn only for show, and sometimes covered by the surcoat with arms, of which, during this king’s reign, there are many examples. On the breast of plate-armour the arms were sometimes enamelled or relieved ; but this method appears to have been in fashion for a short time only, and never to have been universally adopted. Of clerical habits, Norfolk affords us almost every variety. Prelates and abbots add to the common robes only the mitre, crosier, and gloves, and a more costly fashion of trimming. The following description of the habit of a priest is well illustrated by the figure of Richard Thaseburgh, at Heylesdon, 1380: “ The upper vestment was a close Cope without sleeves, with a standing cape. Under that was the Chesible, or Chasuble, a sort of cope, open only at the sides, and worn at mass.” This is not upon the figure just mentioned. “ As he lifts up his hands, from under the close cope are seen the sleeves of the Alb, of which the cuffs are embroidered, and which is worn under the chesible. On his left arm is seen the end of the fanon, or Maniple, which the priest wears round his left arm, when he celebrates mass: it was first worn in imitation of the Jewish or Pagan priests, who used a towel or napkin when offering burnt-offerings. it is embroidered and fringed at the bottom. From under the cope appear the two ends of the Stole, which the priests wore about their necks over the alb: this also is embroidered and fringed at the bottom. In the middle of the bottom of the alb is a piece embroidered with a species of flower, which may possibly be imagined to repre- sent a Greek X.” William Mowbray, at Upwell, has on a Rochet, embroidered down the front ; and from under it is seen his black gown, according to Gough. Next to the ecclesiastics, rank the students or graduates of the universities, of whose habits there are several examples: indeed, priests are oftener thus represented, and distinguished by the tonsure, than vested for the altar. The following brief view of the fashions of each reign is quoted by Gough (v. i. p- 128), from the historian Rous of Warwick :— “Tn the Confessor’s time, the garments reached to the knees, the arms were loaded with golden bracelets, the head was shaved, the beard let to grow on the upper * And then termed the Jupon. S.R.M + Not the cointise, but the Jupon, S,R.M. INTRODUCTION. xxi lip, except of priests, and the skin disfigured with various marks. Their arms were staves and battle-axes : those of the Normans swords and arrows. “ After the conquest, the Norman fashion of shaving the beard and letting the hair flow to the shoulders was adopted. Malmsbury says, the men’s hair was so long they looked like women. Henry I. rounded the hair to show the ears. “ In William Rufus’s time, a great abuse of dress and luxury in wearing the hair, and a horrid fashion of picked and turned-up shoes obtained, and men adopted a mincing gait and a looser dress. “Tn the reign of John, as appears by the seals, the men wore tunics over their coats of mail, but not before ; and the tunics reached down to the heels. “ In that of Henry IIL, they had, as usual, on their seals, horsemen in armour, with their swords, and first introduced their coats of arms in shields, at the reverse of their seals, e¢ facies ymaginum primo habuerunt wmbrelles. “ After the taking of John, king of France, by Edward III., the English, who till then had worn their beards and shaved their heads, and worn tunics, colobia, and bracelets, first came to wear long robes and hair, and shaved their beards, and, leaving out the figures of horsemen on their seals, put their arms into small shields. “In the time of Richard II. began the detestable use of picked shoes, fastened with silver and sometimes gilt chains to the knees. The ladies of quality then wore high head-dresses, with horns and long mantles, with trains, and rode on side-saddles, a fashion introduced by the respectable Queen Anne, who was daughter to the king of Bohemia.” (These long-pointed shoes were restrained to two inches by Edward IV., on pain of cursing by the clergy, and fine of twenty shillings.) Of the extravagant fashions of his own time, the reign of Henry VIL.,. Rous gives this picture. “They let their hair grow so long, that it hid their forehead : they scarce concealed the parts which nature bids us conceal, by the shortness of their garments, or by having servants following to lift up their trains. The capes of their tunics and mantles were short: formerly they were high, that they might stand up, to keep the cold out of their necks. The women of the present time wear mourning-hoods, as if in mourning for some near relation.” To judge from the broad seals of our Norman princes, in Sandford, and other sources, ; William the Conqueror wore short hair, large whiskers, and a short round beard. Rufus : his hair a degree longer than his father, but no beard or whiskers. Henry I. and Stephen: neither hair, beard, nor whiskers. Henry II.: short hair, no beard or whiskers on his first seal, or on his monument ; but on his second seal, large whiskers, and short double-pointed beard. Richard I.: longish hair, without beard or whiskers; but on his monument, both. John: short hair, large whiskers, and short curled beard, and the same on his monument. xxii INTRODUCTION. Henry III.: hair of ordinary length, no beard or whiskers on his first seal; on his second, whiskers and short round beard, and the same on his monument. Edward I. and II.: short hair, no beard or whiskers. Edward III.: long hair, no beard or whiskers on his first and second seal ; shorter hair, large whiskers, and double-pointed beard on his third seal: all these on his monument are long and flowing. Richard II.: in his picture and monument at Westminster, short curling hair, and a small, two-pointed, curling beard: in his seal, both longer. Henry IV.: on his monument, long whiskers and short bifid beard. (In this reign they appear not to have been universally worn, and in the next ceased altogether, and came not again into fashion till the days of Elizabeth.) Military men are very seldom represented on their monuments otherwise than in arms—at once their profession and their pride. When the knights were not clad in armour, they wore dresses that seem to have more than Asiatic softness and effeminacy : for the examples of these, I refer my readers to the prints and illuminations of the times, or to the excellent collection in Strutt’s Dresses, The only class of laymen represented on monuments, except the military, seems to have been merchants or burgesses: these are chiefly to be found in borough towns, or the parochial churches of large commercial counties, where the woollen manufacture flourished ; and of these, the first and by far the most splendid in this county are at Lynn. Adam de Walsokne, 1349, is represented in a plain close coat, open in front, from the middle downward, the loose sleeves of which come no further than the bend of the arm, and there, being slit above, fall down in short lappets, leaving exposed the long tight sleeve of an inner garment; closely fastened from the elbow to the wrist by very many small buttons. Over his shoulders is a short hood, inde- pendent of the coat, and having a standing cape, but falling down in front. The shoes appear as if intended to fit the foot, yet are sharp-toed, and, coming close round the ankle, are laced up on the inner side. Hair flowing. The dress of Robert Braunche is the same, except that the elbow-lappets are longer, and his shoes are tied across the instep. In both these instances, the dressés of the men resemble, in their general features, those of their wives. These lappets were common to both sexes, during the remainder of the reign of Edward III. Of the four men at the sides of the canopy, on the last brass, one is habited in a short coat, buttoned in front, and in a hat, with a feather standing up, and tied under the chin. A second, instead of the hat, has a cloth hobdd over his head, which, falling low down on his breast and shoulders, is slit on the right side for the convenience of the arm, and the front is thrown back over the left shoulder. The third is habited much like the first, as is the fourth, with the substitution of a loose cloak (thrown over the shoulders, and gathered round the waist by the left hand) for the short coat: all these have long piked shoes, and their hose and breeches are of one piece. INTRODUCTION. Xxili Robert Attelathe, 1376, another burgess of this wealthy corporation, and a mayor,* (as shown by the buttons on his shoulder), has a long loose coat to his ancles, fastened down the front by many buttons, in pairs, and round the waist by an em- broidered girdle. The sleeves of his coat are buttoned at the wrist, and on his hands are half gloves, or mittens, of a rich flowered pattern. His cloak, to which there is a standing cape, is fastened on the right shoulder. His shoes, which are rather longer pointed than in the preceding examples, and come up very high behind, are buckled over the instep. I am disposed to recant what I have said respecting the beard of Adam de Walsokne (that it was rubbed down by the feet of walkers in the church), and believe him not to have worn one, according to the fashion in the former part of the reign of Edward III. Braunche has the long whiskers without beard, which suc- ceeded ; and the thin whiskers, and little curling bifid beard of Attelathe, well suit the reign of Richard II., when most probably that monument was made. To the girdle of Simon Felbrigge, about 1380, is attached his bag (mail, or malle), which subsequently became a common appendage, or in its place a purse. Sir William Calthorpe, about 1495, has a splendid one, and by it hangs his rosary also, to one end of which is fastened his seal. On the left side of Judge Notingham, 1414, hangs, from a richly-embroidered girdle, an Anelace (something between a sword and dagger), the sheath of which is itself also made the subject of ornament. In the same situation, William Curteys, notary, 1491, wears his pen-case and ink-horn. “The beau of Edward the Third’s time was a party-coloured animal. He wore hose of one colour on one leg, and of another colour on the other. He was alto- gether like a shield of arms, divided quarterly, Argent and vert, or azure, &c. “In the beginning of Henry the Fourth’s reign, the fashion of dress was extravagant, especially of gowns, with deep wide sleeves, commonly called Pokys, shaped like bagpipes.” Judge Notingham, above mentioned, has an embroidered collar about his neck. Sir William Calthorpe, 1420, has a collar of SS. Collars in pictures have been mistaken for badges of knighthood. They were worn by esquires, knights, and lords in the king’s service, but were not the insignia of their several ranks. Collars were appendages to every officer of the rank of esquire in the royal household; and thus the serjeants of every denomination, from the ser- jeant at arms to the serjeant of the scullery, wore collars, and they are all at this day esquires by virtue of their posts. Collars were not added to the insignia of the garter till the reign of Henry VII. The collar of the lord mayor of London was given in the reign of Henry VIII., when it was enacted that no person, unless he were a knight, should wear a gold collar, called a collar of SS,+ before which time we sometimes find them on the necks of noble ladies. The lord mayors of that time were mostly knighted. * He was mayor of Lynn 1374. + See an article upon Ancient Collars of the King’s Livery by G. F. Beltz, Esq. K. H. Lancaster Herald, in the Retrospective Review, new series, vol. ii. p, 500. xxiv INTRODUCTION. To these succeeded gold chains (limited in the twenty-fourth year of Henry VIII. to such as could afford to spend two hundred pounds per annum), which appear in portraits of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. It remains to say a few words on the subject of the dress of females. They ~ have been charged by many writers, from an early period, with being much given, in this respect, to capricious change. The charge, however, does not appear to be well supported by the examples left us in the illuminations of ancient manuscripts: they do not seem so changeable and capricious as the sex, which, in those days at least, claimed superiority in intellect. On our monuments we find tokens of a contrary spirit : we find the same dress prevalent for more than half a century. The costume of females of rank, in the latter part of the thirteenth century, appears to have been graceful. The hair of Eleanor, 1272, Queen of Edward I., sur- mounted by a diadem, waves freely down her neck: her mantle, confined upon her shoulders by a cordon, drawn forward and held by her left hand upon her breast, falls easily and in many folds about her feet, and open in front shows a full robe, with loose but not large sleeves. Aveline Countess of Lancaster, twenty-three years before, has her head covered by a coif, from under which, a little below the temples, appears a wimple, passing over her chin, and covering her neck: in other respects her dress re- sembles Eleanor’s. The prevailing head-dress of the earlier part of the fourteenth century was somewhat like a turban, under which the hair was entirely concealed, though in some instances it was allowed to flow unrestrained—a liberty it seldom after enjoyed during three centuries; for presently succeeded the inelegant fashion of plaiting the hair stiffly down each side of the face, like that of the wife of Adam de Walsokne, 1349, and of Joan Stapleton, 1365; or of pursing it up in hard masses, inclosing the whole face with a formal frame, as with Ismena de Wynston, 1371, and Cecilia Kerdeston, 1391. Subsequently, or perhaps contemporarily, it was collected in bunches over the ears; thus it is on the monument of Blanch de la Tour, 1340, in Westminster Abbey; but this was not common until the beginning of the next century. These have been termed the reticulated head-dress, and appear to have been formed by gathering the hair tight into an embroidered cloth, and sometimes covering that with a silk net, having jewels at the intersections of the meshes. Over this is frequently found a veil, sometimes coming forward, and at others thrown back from the forehead, and discovering a fillet of jewellery, as in the instance of Joan Stapleton before mentioned. This veil was * called a couvrechef, and subsequently a kerchief. Hence arose what is termed the mitred head-dress; for the side bunches gradually extending upwards, the veil thrown over sunk into the hollow between, and at last the raised hair was superseded by a wire frame. The beginning of this fashion is marked on the figures of Sir Ralph Shelton’s lady, 1423, and of Cecilia, the wife of Sir Bryan Stapleton, 1432: it afterwards assumed the form seen on the subsequent brasses, which continued common until the end of the reign of Henry VI. About that time the bunches quitted their stations at the sides, and coalesced in one equally INTRODUCTION. XXV inelegant, at the back of the head, wrapped, as before, in an embroidered cloth, and the light veil floated far and wide behind, supported by wires. The first example of this also (the veil or flowing head-dress) is on the stone of a Stapleton, 1466. Each of these fashions appears to have held its ground about twenty years. In the time of the seventh Henry a conical cap, usually higher, and coming to a sharper point than that of Margaret Clere, 1488, was worn; which, with a veil, or broad band, passing across the forehead and falling back over the shoulders, has some- what the appearance of a cap of maintenance. This was not of long continuance. In the same reign, or perhaps before, the pedimental head-dress, pointed in front, and made of velvet or embroidered cloth, came into fashion. We find it on the brass of Lady Howard, at Stoke, in Suffolk, 1452, and on that of Sir John and Lady Wode- house, 1465, in this county; neither of which do I believe to have been made till the end of that century.. This dress continued common on monuments till the reign of Mary, with whom came in the close cap (termed the “ Paris hede”) and ruff; though the change did not reach our county till the days of her successor. The wimple made its appearance in England towards the conclusion of the twelfth century, and seems to have been a piece of linen, passing in front of the throat and chin, and crossing behind the head; over the top of which the ends were carried, and hung down on each side; and the whole was kept in its place by a band round the forehead: over it was frequently worn a veil. Of this we have no example on monumental brasses, but it is represented on the statue in Westminster Abbey, of Aveline Countess of Lancaster, 1269. (Vid. Stothard’s Monum. Effigies.) Very similar to this in appearance is the gorget, which consisted of several folds round the neck, fastened with a great quantity of pins, and raised up, high as the ears, on each side the face: when this is worn in conjunction with the veil, as it is by Ela, widow of Sir Miles Stapleton, 1418, it can hardly be distinguished from the wimple. The barbe was a chin-cloth, worn in mourning, and having many plaits. Christiana Baxter, 1432, who we hence infer survived her husband, wears it ; as does the widow of John Braham, 1519. The last lady neglects an ordinance made in the eighth year of Henry VII., which declares, that “ duchesses and countesses, and all higher estates, may be barbed above the chin; every one, not being under the degree of baroness, may wear a barbe about the chin; knyghtes wives are to wear the barbe under the chin; and all other gentlewomen, beneath the throat-goyll” (gullet). (Vid. Strutt’s Dresses, p. 325.) Montfaucon makes the veil a mark of widowhood, in the fourteenth century. It was not uncommon for widows to retire to some religious house, and assume the veil. Joanna Braham, just mentioned, is expressly Deo devota, so late as 1519. Gough (v.i. p. 119) has given the form of registering the vow of chastity, made by Isabella Countess of Suffolk, in 1382. The tippet varied much in its size and form: it was at some times so large as to resemble a short mantle, as on the brass from St. Hdmund’s, Norwich, about 1520; and at others (and generally at first) narrow, like a facing of the top of the d xxvi INTRODUCTION. gown, as with the wives of Sir Miles Stapleton, 1466: it assumes a neater form with Elizabeth Clere, 1488. The ruf’ came into fashion about the middle of the sixteenth century, and continued to be worn during seventy years, though with James I. neck-bands were introduced : these were sometimes propped up with wires, and at others fell upon the shoulders, and were termed falling-bands : those of Thomas Holl, 1630, are orna- mented with a broad border of lace. A vestige of this fashion remains in the clerical habit of the present day. The figure of Jane Coningsby, in 1608, gives an excellent example of the kerchief (couvre-chef) covering the head and shoulders. When the part which there covers the head was afterwards thrown back, jt became what was called the neck- kerchef, and since, still more improperly, the neck-handkerchief, which at first was usually worn double. In this last form I do not meet with it in Norfolk; but it occurs on the brass of Anne Bedingfeld, in 1618, at Darsham, in the adjoining county. (Vid. Suffolk Brasses.) I have been thus particular in describing the head-dresses which are most common, because they are of great assistance in ascertaining dates. In gowns, robes, and mantles, there has never been much change. There is, however, one word, kirtle*, of frequent occurrence in the volumes of Gough and Strutt, to which I find no definite idea attached; and there is a garment (that of the wife of Adam de Wal- sokne), common from the middle of the fourteenth century to late in the fifteenth, which is neither described nor named. * « The kirtle is a part of dress used by the men and women, but especially by the latter: it was sometimes a habit of state, and worn by persons of high rank; sometimes it was laced closely to the body, and probably answered the purpose of the bodice or stays.” (Strutt’s Dresses, p. 371). Vide also the Index and Notes to the Journal of Bishop Beckington, p. 119, for several illustrations of this article of dress. | ZW x\ eS) ay S S ASK cK ey HS Ry 3S) tos oO, 0) 1 | | SEPULCHRAL BRASSES OF THE COUNTY OF NORFOLK. PEATE: SIR HUGH HASTINGS, AT ELSING, 1347. Gough’s Sepulch. Mon. i. 98. Carter’s Ant. Sculpt. i. 99. Tuer is no doubt that the person represented on this brass was of the family of Hastings, from the maunche on his shield and tabard, and scarcely any doubt that it was Sir Hugh Hastings, who built the church at Elsing, and died in 1347. He was son of Sir John de Hastings, Lord Abergavenny, by Isabel his second lady, daughter of Hugh le Despencer, Earl of Winchester; and married Margery, one of the coheirs of Jordan de Foliot, by whom he acquired this lordship. His pedigree,* as far as relates to this monument, is given in Carter's Ancient Sculpture, i. p.99. The whole figure is admirably characteristic of the dress of the times, but is singular in the gorget, which is on no other that I am acquainted with. Of the eight figures on the buttresses, one is crowned, two bareheaded, and the rest fully armed, and the bearings discover their alliance with the principal figure. The first is King Edward III., who first quartered the arms of France with those of Eng- land, in 1341, (bearing 1 and 4, Azure, semée of fleurs de lys or; 2 and 3, Gules, three lioncels passant guardant in pale or.) Opposite to the King is Henry Plantagenet, Harl of Lancaster, great-grandson of Henry III., who bears Gules, three lioncels passant guardant in pale or, under a label of three points azure, each charged with as many fleurs de lys or. Under * The Pedigree alluded to shows his connexion with the persons who are represented on the | Brass. N. + They were thus borne till Charles VI. of France, reduced the semée of fleurs de lys to three, when our King did the same; as appears by a seal of Henry, Prince of Wales, annexed to a writing dated 1407. B 2 SEPULCHRAL BRASSES OF THE COUNTY OF NORFOLK. Edward III. is Thomas Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick: his arms, Gules, a fess between six cross-crosslets or. The second figure on the sinister side, and the third on the dexter, are both now gone. The former was taken away by the ill-advised zeal of an antiquary : it is therefore here copied from Carter’s plate, and, in copying, a mistake has been made in the shield, which should have borne Hastings quartering Valence, Barry of ten, argent and azure, an orle of martlets gules. The person represented ‘was Lawrence Hastings, Earl of Pembroke, who died 1348, and this has been supposed the oldest example on record of a subject quartering arms. Of the other lost figure nothing is known, but that it represented a Despencer. The third sinister figure is Ralph; Lord Stafford, who bore Or, a chevron gules. The lowest on the opposite side represents Roger Grey, Lord Grey of Ruthyn, whose arms are, Barry of six, argent and azure, in chief three torteaux. And the remaining figure is that of Lord St. Amand, who married a daughter of Hugh le Despencer, Harl of Winchester, and bears, Or, fretty sable, on a chief of the second three besants. All the shields were formerly enamelled with the arms in their proper colours : the lines of the brass were also filled with enamel, and the ground of the fillet, which went round the whole, and contained the inscription, was enamelled red; so that this monument, when entire and in good preservation, must have been singularly splendid. Above the canopy is an excellent example of the ridiculous attempts of our forefathers to embody their ideas of heaven and heavenly things. The Almighty Father, under the figure of an aged king, is giving his blessing to the Virgin, who, in the corresponding niche, is listening with pious humility to the salutation of the angel Gabriel, while another angel in the clouds above is wafting incense from his censer. [Sir Hugh Hastings, and the second figure on the sinister side, wear, instead of the camail, gorgets of chain mail; and about the neck, collars formed of two plates ; their basinets are furnished with movable visors. The armpits and elbow joints are protected by round plates, and the chain-mail sleeves are further strengthened by plates attached outside; and at the wrists are seen under the hauberk the sleeves of the hauketon. Sir Hugh wears chausses on his legs; the rest have greaves of a single piece on the forepart of the legs, with sollerets of overlapping plates. Sir Samuel Meyrick describes the knee-caps as formed of circular pieces laid over each other, smaller and smaller, and terminating in spikes. See Ancient Armour, ii. 22. On the finial of the pediment, which forms the canopy, is placed a tilting helm,* bearing the crest of Hastings—a bull’s head. A more remarkable defence for the head is worn by Almaric de St. Amand, the lowest figure on the sinister side: perhaps it may be the chapelle de fer, or the shining steel Montauban hat mentioned by Froissart: it here appears to be worn over the basinet, and without any defence for the face. Of this description of helm, which appears repeatedly in contemporary illuminations, no other * The tilting helmet of the Biack Prince at Canterbury, and that of Sir Richard Pembridge, one of the first Knights of the Garter, preserved at Goodr!ch Court, are supposed to be the only ones extant of this early period. S.R.M. neater tes genre renee nen Margaret > pris Wife y, Shee ? 72 Vz SE UES lam De Walsoleer? and ee CEEOL re eH “y US O f Ae \| t} Ht} a naa} i iit] } {i} it} 1} Mi aa | Ht} | HII | ian) | i} ait Wt } } a | i i 1} || SEPULCHRAL BRASSES OF THE COUNTY OF NORFOLK. 3 instance has been observed amongst monumental effigies :* in actual combat it seems to have been occasionally drawn forward over the brow, so that the projecting brim, in some degree, protected the face. A. W.] [Sir Hugh de Hastings was born in 1311, and at the death of his mother Isabella in the 9th Edw. III. was twenty-four years of age. He was summoned to Parliament in 1342, but never afterwards; and dying at the age of thirty-six, in 1347, left issue, by Margaret Foliot, two sons, John, who was then seventeen, and Hugh. In a contempo- rary Roll of Arms he is said to have borne Or, a maunche gules, with a label azure ; which agrees with the arms on his shield, tabard, and on his sword. In the above description of this brass notice ought to have been taken of the figure of St. George in the centre, and of the Hastings’ crest, a bull’s head, on the helmet. N.] Prats II. ADAM DE WALSOKNE, IN ST. MARGARET’S CHURCH, LYNN, 1349. The last plate exhibited a beautiful specimen of the military costume in the middle of the fourteenth century; the present plate affords us an equally or still more beautiful example of the contemporary domestic costume, in the effigies of a rich merchant and his wife. Beautiful, however, as it is, it is not noticed by any antiquary, excepting indeed Mackerell, who, in his History of Lynn, contents himself with giving the words merely of the inscription. It is not perhaps less extraordinary, that the person whose wealth procured him this splendid monument, should have left no other memorial of his existence: his name is not so much as mentioned by the historian of Norfolk. The story at their feet is to me perfectly unintelligible: the twelve figures in niches on the buttresses represent of course the twelve Apostles, beginning with St. Peter ; and the hieroglyphics in the corners are emblems of the four Evangelists. [Adam de Walsokne, who appears from the inscription to have died on the 5th of June 1349, was a manucaptor of Thomas de Massingham, who was burgess in Parlia- ment for Lynn in the 17 Edw. II. 1324, and was mayor of that town in 1334 and 1342. Of the two shields, of which only the charges are now visible, one contains the arms of Edward the Third, and the other Walsokne’s merchant's mark, surrounded by cinquefoils. The following description of this elaborate-brass occurs in the General History of Norfolk, but attention ought to be drawn to the ornaments worked on the dress of the female, consisting of dogs’ heads among foliage. N.] [‘‘ Adam de Walsokne is represented in a plain close coat, open in front from the middle downwards, the loose sleeves of which coming no further than the bend of the * A similar one is sculptured on one of the equestrian figures of Aymer de Valence on his monu- ment in Westminster Abbey. S.R.M. + Mackerell’s History of Lynn. SSS SEE LID) Se) VAG. AX Tee 2 ( SAEED SY Oe = 5 O