Cour from ^Iston^oor 
 
 TO 
 
 HARROWGATE AND BRIMHAM CRAGS. 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 
 in 2014 
 
 https://archive.org/details/tourfromalstonmoOOpenn 
 
TOUR 
 
 FROM 
 
 ALSTON-MOOR 
 
 TO 
 
 HARROWGATE, 
 
 AND 
 
 BRIMHAM CRAGS. 
 
 By THOMAS PENNANT, Esq. 
 
 tontion: 
 
 Printed by C. Mercier and Co. Northumberland-Court Strand, 
 
 FOR JOHN SCOTT, NO. 447, STRAND. 
 
 1804. 
 
ADVERTISEMENT. 
 
 The Tour from Aljlon-Moor to Harrowgate and 
 Brimham Crags, being a continuation of the Tour 
 from Downing to Aljloti-Moor, was left by Mr. Pen- 
 nant among his Manufcripts prepared for the Prefs ; 
 and the Editor, in prefenting it to the Public, trufts 
 it will be found equally interefting with the former 
 Works of this efteemed Author. 
 
 February, 1804. 
 
/ 
 
 ITINERARY. 
 
 Durham. 
 Blackmoor, i 
 Kellophead, 2 
 Wierdale- Chapel, 3 
 Stanhope, 7 
 WoJfingham, 7 
 Bradley-Hall, 8 
 Witton-Caftle, 10 
 Bifhop Aukland, 12 
 Aukland St. Andrew's, ib. 
 Brancepeth-Caftle, 15 
 Whitworth, 17 
 Bier's-Green, ib. 
 Aukland St. Helen's, 19 
 Weft Aukland, ib. 
 Raby-Caftle, ib. 
 Staindrop, 27 
 Streatlam, 2,8 
 Barnard-Caftle, 29 
 
 Yorkshire. 
 
 Eglefton- Abbey, 32 
 Rokeby-Houfe, 38 
 Maglovc, 42 
 Greata-Bridge, 44 
 WyclifF, ib. 
 Forcet, 45 
 
 Ravenfworth-Caftle, 45 
 Middleton Tyers, 46 
 Catarrick-Bridge, ib. 
 Hornby-Caftle, 47 
 Bedal, ib. 
 Seemimg, 48 
 Burnifton, ib. 
 Cathorp, ib. 
 
 Thornborough-Heath, ib. 
 WeftTanfield, 51 
 Hackfall, 54 
 Norton Coniers, 56 
 Wath, 64 
 Ripon, ib. 
 Studley-Park, 73 
 Fountain's-Abbey, 75 
 Fountain's-Hall, 90 
 Hutton-Heath, 91 
 Borough-Bridge, ib. 
 Aid borough, 94 
 Knarefborough, 98 
 Grimbald-Bridge, 107 
 Scriven-Hall, 109 
 Scriven-Moor, no 
 Gatefliill, ib. 
 Harrowgate, in 
 Ripley, 115 
 Brimham Crags, 118 
 
LIST of PLATES. 
 
 Page 
 
 Bradley Hall 8 
 
 Brancepeth Castle 13 
 
 Raby Castle 19 
 
 Rippon Minster . . . 67 
 
 Fountain's Abbey 75 
 
 Tomb of Sir William Slingby 101 
 
 Brimham Crags, Plate I. . 121 
 
 Brimham Crags, Plate II 123 
 
 Brimham Crags, Plate III 124 
 
■ 
 
 TOUR- 
 
 FROM 
 
 ALSTON MOOR 
 
 TO- 
 
 * HARROGATE, 
 
 r 773v 
 
 I now refume the Tour which I had left unfinifhed at 
 
 Aljlon-Moor. Beyond the town is Black-Moor lofty and 
 
 bleak, abounding with minerals. Befides the late Earl of Minerals of 
 , - Blackmoor. 
 
 Derwentwater s property, Sir Lancelot Allgood y or Nun- 
 
 wicky Northumberland^ Knt. has- alfo a coniiderable tract. 
 
 At this time the lead-ore fold only at 61. a ton, probably 
 
 by reafon of the diflance from .a port, whole vicinity would 
 
 enhance the price by the facility of carriage. The ore 
 
 feems very impure, being much mixed with black-jack and 
 
 ftone. The vein is often three yards thick, and is followed 
 
 to the depth of a hundred fathoms: levels are much inufe 
 
 b here 
 
2 
 
 KELLOPHEAD.— THE WE A RE. 
 
 here to draw off the water. The ore is fmelted near the 
 mines, as coal abounds in the neighbourhood. I afcended 
 a fteep hill following the courfe of the mines. At the top, 
 the counties of Northumberland, Cumberland, and Dur- 
 ham, meet at a crofs; I entered that of 
 
 DURHAM. 
 
 Kellophead. This hill, called Kellophead, is of great height, and 
 the defcent to the eaft tedious, exceeding bad, rocky, and 
 dangerous ; the profpect around black and terrible. After 
 two miles walk, for riding was unfafe, I reached W lerhead, 
 
 The We are. or the head of the Wier or TVeare, which flows fouth- 
 eafterly by Stanhope and BiJJoop Jlukland\ then turns 
 northerly to Durham, there affumes a courfe due north to 
 Chefter-le-Street, from whence it goes full eaft into the 
 fea at Wear mouth. At JVierhead begins fome cultivation, 
 and the appearance of a few trees. I arrived at the bottom 
 in a narrow valley, called Wearedale', and after a mile's 
 ride reached Wearedale Chapel, 
 
 The road of this day is little frequented, except by 
 miners; but in general forms, in this dry feafon, a good 
 horfe-path, excepting part from Kellop to this place. 
 
 Travel- 
 
WEAREDALE CHAPEL.— STANHOPE-PARK. 3 
 
 Travellers in carriages, from Carlijle, are obliged to go 
 round by IVewcaJlle; or by Brought in Wefti?ior 'eland. 
 
 The hills that bound this vale are low, cultivated almoft 
 to their tops. Wearedale Chapel is a fmall town of one Wearedale 
 
 C H A P £ L 
 
 regular row, and fome fcattered houfes. On one fide of 
 the place is alfo a mine-town, in the lordfhip of the 
 Bifhop of Durham. The chapel is a neat building, erected 
 of late years by Sir Walter Blacket. In the ancient chapel 
 was a chauntry, dedicated to our Saviour, and St. yohn the 
 Bapti/l, for which Biihop Booth for 20 1, granted his li- 
 cence, dated the 4th of June, 1465, to Robert Rodes^ 
 for one chaplain to pray for the happy eftate of King Ed- 
 ward IV. ; George N evilly Archbifhop of York ; Bifhop 
 Booth ; the honourable Lady Elizabeth Burcejlre ; the faid 
 Robert Rodes, and ^4gnes his wife; and for the fouls of 
 John and Ijabel, his father and mother; and Henry Ra- 
 venfworth; with authority for the chaplain, and his fuc- 
 ceflbrs, to receive an annual rent of iooj. out of the 
 manor of Whitley* 
 
 I continued my ride along the dale: the ground is laid 
 
 out in pafture, and would be beautiful but for the ftone 
 
 inclofures. I parTed by Stanhope-Park — the houfe at prefent Stanhope 
 
 Pa. r k • 
 
 a common farm. The park was very extenllve, but rudely 
 
 b 2 inclofedj 
 
4 
 
 SCOTCH INROAD. 
 
 inclofed : it belonged to the Bifhops of Durham, who here 
 took their great foreft hunt : their tenants aflembled with 
 horfes and dogs, and furnifhed them with all the neceffa- 
 ries for the chace. They had here their great officers of 
 the chace, and exercifed all the foreft privileges apper- 
 taining to the royal ftate. 
 
 Inroad of In 1327, the Scofs, to the number of twenty thoufand 
 
 the Scots in 1 
 
 1327. men, under Sir Thomas Randolph, Earl of Murray, and 
 
 Sir yames Douglas, furnamed the Good, made a dreadful 
 
 inroad into thefe parts, and marked their courfe by fire 
 
 and fword. 
 
 Repelled by Edward III, then a youth of fixteen, with the fpirit 
 
 Edward III. ' 1 
 
 and alacrity which afterwards diftinguifhed his long reign, 
 
 inftantly raifed an army of fixty thoufand men, to put a 
 flop to the excefTes of the barbarous foe. Notwithstand- 
 ing its number, its place could not have been difcovered, 
 but by the flames or fmoke of the burning villages ; even 
 this did not direct him to the enemy. He difencumbered 
 himfelf of his heavy baggage, and by forced marches 
 through woods, moralTes, and deferts, reached the Tyne, 
 in order to intercept the enemy retiring, as he fuppofed, 
 with the plunder of their inroad. For the difcovery of a 
 great army, he was obliged to have recourfe to an expe- 
 dient, 
 
EDWARD III. NEARLY TAKEN. 
 
 5 
 
 dient, apparently more adapted to the detection of a fu- 
 gitive individual. He proclaimed a reward of lands, to 
 the value of one hundred pounds yearly for life, to the 
 perfon who mould firft difcover the enemies * in dry 
 ground, where they could be attacked.' Many knights 
 and fquires fwam acrofs the river, and fet out upon this 
 lingular fearch*. 
 
 Still he marched three days fouthward in vain: at length 
 'Thomas Rokejby, who had been taken prifoner by the Scots, 
 efcaped, and gave intelligence to the King that they were 
 ftationed on a rising ground, with the Wier in front, equally 
 ignorant of the motion of the Englijh, as the EngUJh of 
 theirs. Edward, finding that the Scots began to want pro- 
 vision, offered battle, which the enemy declined. The 
 Scots fuddenly decamped to a ftronger poft, two miles 
 higher up the river; the King placed himfelf opposite to 
 them near Stanhope-Park, 
 
 While tilings were in this situation, at dead of night, Edward 
 
 NEARLY 
 
 Douglas, with two hundred horfemen, approached Ed- taken. 
 ward's camp; under the guife of znEnglijh commander, 
 making the rounds, he called out, having got the watch- 
 
 * Annals of Scotland, by Sir David Dalrymple, Vol. II. p. 119. 
 
 word, 
 
6 
 
 STANHOPE-HALL. 
 
 word, " Hah ! St. George, is there no watch here?" and thus, 
 eluding the centinels, pafled on undifcovered to the royal 
 quarters. His companions fhouted, ' a Douglas, a Doug- 
 las ! Englijh thieves, you fh all all die.' They overthrew 
 whatever oppofed their paflage, and furioufly aflaulted the 
 King's tent. Edward's domeftics made a bold ftand to 
 fave their mafter : his chaplain, and others of his houfe- 
 hold were llain, and himfelf hardly efcaped. Douglas, 
 difappointed of his prey, rufhed through the enemies, and, 
 with ineonliderable lofs, retreated. 
 
 This is related on the authority of Hemingford, II. 208, 
 by Sir David Dalrymple, II. 120, the moft exact of 
 our annalifts ; and may be further depended on as an ad- 
 venture worthy of the fpirit of the great Douglas. 
 
 Stanhope Down the vale was a pretty view: I paffed by a large old 
 Hall. 
 
 houfe, called Stanhope- Hall, with battlements at top, and 
 guarded by a curtain- wall, to which is an afcent in front 
 by a flight of many fteps; once the refidence of the 
 younger branch, according to Kearjley, III. 122, of Fe- 
 therfton-Haugh, of Northumberland, who, in a remote 
 period, had married the heirefs. It continued in this line 
 till the death of Colonel Fetherjlonehalge (killed at the 
 battle of Blenheim), the laft poffeffor of the Stanhope 
 
 eftate; 
 
STANHOPE-TOWN. — WOLSINGHAM. 
 
 7 
 
 eftate; which, after his deceafe, was fold to the Earl of 
 Carlt/Ie, and put a period to the name in this country. 
 Let it be obferved that this younger branch added Halge 
 to the end of the name, this fignifying a low fltuation, as 
 Haugh does a higher one. 
 
 I reached Stanhope, a fmall town, very irregular, but mixed St anhope- 
 
 TOWN. 
 
 with trees ; it makes a pretty appearance. The roofs of the 
 houfes here and in thefe parts are very fleep, to permit 
 the fnow, which falls in great abundance here, to Aide 
 off: many are covered with heath. The church is old, 
 has two rows of pillars with round arches, and a fort of 
 choir with flails, placed there by Bifhop Butler. In the 
 church-yard is an ancient grave-ftone, or coffin-lid, with 
 a fingular fort of crofs, and a {hears cut on it. The rec- 
 tor's is a good houfe; he is non-refident, but his revenue is 
 very considerable. The mineral country is ftill continued. 
 
 I paffed through Wolftngham, another fmall town : the vale Wolsing- 
 widens and improves in beauty; ftone-walls difappear, 
 hedges take place. In the church-yard is a fmall ftone, 
 with four ridges placed over as many infants, the produce 
 of a fingle birth. On a high bank on the fouth fide 
 of the town, flood the cattle \ nothing remains but a great 
 mount and a deep fofs on the acceflible fide. 
 
 I met 
 
8 OLD CUSTOMS OR TENURES.— BRADLEY-HALL, 
 
 I met abundance of horfes laden with timber for the 
 mines ; numbers of great lime-kilns on all the road ; black 
 marble, with oblong fungitae, found in quantity in the 
 neighbourhood. 
 
 Old Customs Wolfingham is a manor of the bifhops, and its ancient 
 
 or Tenures. 
 
 tenures were fervile; the villain did all his hufbandiy 
 work with the help of the lord's bondfmen; but when 
 they carried the hay and corn, each had a loaf of breads 
 Roger de Bradley held lands by the fervice of the foreft, 
 forty days in farming- time,, and forty in rutting- time,, by 
 fencing and keeping Bradley meadows* Ralph, the bee- 
 keeper y held iix acres for tending the bees. Henry, the 
 Jhepherd, had twelve acres : the gardiner had lix. The 
 punder had fix acres, and rendered forty hens and four 
 hundred eggs. This officer was the pounder , or pindar f 
 who took care that no trefpafs was done, and had the 
 charge of the pound or pinfold. There were various 
 other offices, done away as grievances in more enlightened 
 days. 
 
 ADLEY About a mile beyond Wolfingham, I paffied by- Bradley- 
 Hall. Hall, a great houfe in ruins. The front has a fort of 
 loggio, with a fingle pillar in the middle, on each fide of 
 which is a great window \ the whole falient, like a portico 
 
 from 
 
( 
 
BRADLEY-HALL. 
 
 from the front. It is in the ftyle of the reign of Queen 
 Elizabeth^ and moft probably built by its new mafter, Sir 
 George, who as an architect had done himfelf no fmall 
 credit. I communicated a drawing of it to Mr. Hutchin- 
 Jon, who has engraven it in his 3d vol. at p. 152. On 
 the back part are the foundations of much building, once 
 guarded by two great dykes and a deep fofs, forming a 
 fquare. At a diftance, the whole is enclofed with a great 
 fquare wall, and a round tower at each end. 
 
 Bradley-Hall^ in ancient times, was poiTelTed by a fa- 
 mily of its own name; but in the year 1345, or before 
 Bifhop Hatfield held the fee, it was part of the property 
 of the great Baron Ralph Eure, or Evers, who rendered 
 for it 22s. From Bifhop Langley, Robert Eure, in 1421, 
 got leave to fortify and embattle it. We are told that 
 Bradley was an eftate of the Temp efts, who forfeited it to 
 the Queen, for the fhare they had in the northern rebellion 
 in 1569. Elizabeth granted to Sir George Bowes*, of 
 
 Streatham, 
 
 * This houfe, with fome few acres, ftill continues in the poffemon of the 
 Bowes (an older branch than thofe of Streatham ). I believe it came into this 
 family in Henry the Eighth's time, by marriage of Lord Eure's daughter. — 
 Mr. Man. 
 
 c 
 
 Sir 
 
o WITTON-CASTLE.— THE EURES. 
 
 Streatham, their eftates, in reward for his mercilefs con- 
 duct after the fuppreflion of the rebellion. 
 
 Wit ton Wit ton Cajlle ftands to the fouth of the IV ear e, at a 
 
 0> 'V S 1* L E 
 
 fmall diftance from its banks, and about four miles to the 
 fouth- eaft of Bradley-Hall. It feemed to me to have been 
 a cancellated houfe, and fuch it proves. It was a royal 
 manor held by the crown, till the time of Henry II. 
 when it was granted to Henry de Pudfey, the bifhop's ne- 
 phew, for two thoufand marks of filver, paid by the 
 bifhop. The cattle was built before the year 141 05 there 
 had been one built before, probably by one of the Baron 
 The Eures. Eures, who made it their relidence: the time of their 
 poffeiling the manor we are not told. We find that Ralph 
 Eure held it of the fee; and that Bifhop Bury, who died 
 in 1345, had granted him his pardon for marrying with- 
 out the licence of him his lord. In 141 o, Bifhop Hat- 
 field granted Sir Ralph Eure permiillon to fortify the 
 houfe, which mews it had been built before. It then 
 became the baronial caftle of the family. The barons 
 were famed, for a long period, for their valour again/! the 
 
 * A "•{ f ' 
 
 Sir William Bowes, Knt. Embaflador in Scotland (deleft fon of Sir George 
 Bowes, Knight-Marfhal), died without iffue-male, leaving his nephew, Sir 
 George Bowes, of Bradley, his heir-male. 
 
 Vide Birch's Memoirs of Queen Elizabeth, Vol. I; p. 335. ■ 
 
 Scots', 
 
BISHOP AUKLAND. 
 
 Scots', none more than Sir Ralph, in the reign of Heitry TV. 
 They are faid to be defcended from the Lords of Clavering 
 and Warkworth, in this county. Sir William Dugdale 
 tells us, that they came originally from Eure, in Bucks ; 
 and feated themfelves at TV arkworth, in Northumberland, in 
 the time of Henry III. William Eure was called to Par- 
 liament by Henry V II L in his 3 5th year, by the title of 
 Lord Eure, of Whitton. The title became extinct in the 
 perfon of Willi a7n Eure, in 1706. 
 
 The caftle was inclofed in a narrow oblong precinct, 
 confirming of an embattled wall ; it never feemed confide-r* 
 able: the fortified part is at one end, and confifts of 
 fquare towers. Amidfr. fome buildings is a fhort fquare 
 one, and an edifice, poflibly the chapel. The place was 
 fold by one of the Lord Eures to the Darcies. Sir Wil- 
 liam Darcy pofTefTed it during the civil wars, when it was 
 befieged and taken by Sir Arthur Hazelrig, who fequef- 
 tered the effects. About the year 1743, it was fold by 
 Henry Darcy to William Cuthbert, Efq. for the fum of 
 140,000/. I obferve, in Eclons Lib. Val. that a Lord 
 Darcy was at that time patron of the church of Wit ton* 
 le-Wear. 
 
 After a ride of about four miles, I crofted a fine bridge of 
 
 c 2 two 
 
2 BISHOP AUKLAND.— ST. ANDREW'S AUKLAND 
 
 two arches over the Weare^ and reached the palace at Bijhop 
 Aukland, catching my worthy friend the bifhop, as he 
 was fitting down to dinner. I continued with his lordfhip 
 fome days, and experienced every attention during my ftay 
 that could render it agreeable. From this place, as from my 
 head-quarters, I made feveral fhort excurfions to the en- 
 virons. I committed my remarks on them, and the palace, 
 to paper; and having in my Tour in Scot/and, 1772, 
 printed almoff. the whole of them, think it unneceflary 
 to trouble the reader, and fhall give here only the few 
 omiiTions I may have made. 
 
 Newfield. I rode two miles farther to Newfield crags — a vaft 
 precipice, wooded, tremendoufly overhanging the Weare. 
 The other fide is fteep, but lefs fo; the ftrata indicate 
 coal. From the fummit a rich view of two reaches of 
 the river. 
 
 t. Andrew's After dinner I went to South Churchy or St. Andrew s 
 
 AUKLAND. 11 • • 1 • 1 -n-n /1 
 
 Aukland) once collegiate. It is parochial to Bijhop Aukland\ 
 there being no church at the laft, only the magnificent 
 chapel built by Bifhop Cofin^ to replace that built by 
 Bifhop Be/i, who died in 1310, and which was demolifhed 
 by the facrilegious Hazelrig. The chief tomb is of a 
 Pollard, a crofs- legged knight, in twitted, mail, even to 
 
 the 
 
BRANCEPETH-CASTLE. 
 
 the finger's end; his veft is of flips reaching to his knees; 
 has a fhort broad- fword, a lion at his feet^ a conic helm. He 
 had lands granted him for deftroying a dragon, or fome 
 monfler, by the tenure of delivering to every new Bifhop 
 of Durham a falchion. The lands are to this day held by 
 this cuftom, and are called Pollard lands. In another 
 place, the flaying of the dragon is attributed to a Sir 
 jfohn Conyers. Near him is the figure of a woman, fup- 
 pofed to have been a Bellafys, at full length, in a thick 
 fquare cap. 
 
 An infcription to Fridefmonde, the wife of Bifhop 
 Barnes^ with her figure on a large brafs plate. 
 
 A brafs plate of a Monk, Lancelot Claxton^ dated 
 i 506. 
 
 Near this church was the deanery ; a houfe ftill remains 
 of that name. 
 
 Early in the morning I went to Brancepeth-Caftle, fix Br 
 miles diftant north, originally the feat of the Bulmers^ 
 and built, according to Camden y by one of the name ; 
 pofTibly by Henry ^ Lord of Buhner ^ Brancepeth, Middle- 
 ham^ and other great eftates in York/hire and Durham ; he 
 
 being 
 
BRANCEPETH-CASTLE. 
 
 being the firft mentioned in the pedigree given by Mr. 
 Hutchinfon, in his Durham, III. xxvi. The family muft 
 have been of high antiquity, for Bertram Bulmer, fecond 
 of the name, and fourth in defcent from Henry, was co- 
 temporary with King Stephen, The caftle and eftate paffed 
 into the Nevilles, afterwards Earls of W 'ejlmor -eland \ by 
 the marriage of Emma, only daughter of Bertram, firft 
 of that name, with Geoffrey Neville, grandfon of Gilbert 
 de Neville, who came in with the Conqueror. Charles, 
 the kit. Earl of Weftmor -eland, made this caftle the ren- 
 dezvous of his people, immediately before they bur ft into 
 rebellion, in 1569; and here he was joined by his aftb- 
 ciate, Thomas, Earl of Northumberland, from whence 
 they took their fatal march. 
 
 After the forfeiture to Queen Elizabeth, it continued in 
 the crown till it was conveyed in 1636 to Ralph Cole ; who, 
 in consideration of 16,800/. and an annuity to himfelf of 
 500/. and 200/. to his wife, if fhe furvived, conveyed 
 it to Sir Henry Bellafys, Knt. His only daughter died 
 unmarried in 1774: fhe bequeathed the caftle and eftate 
 to Earl Fauconberg, her relation. 
 
 The caftle con rifts of a large fquare tower, now mo- 
 dernifed, and a habitable houfe, which impends over fteep 
 
 and 
 
/ 
 
 CHURCH AND TOMBS. 
 
 and wooded dells : the reft, which is the wall of the caftle- 
 yafd, with one or two fquare towers, is on a flat. The 
 part of the wall that is quite entire has fmall fquare 
 towers on the fummit, with corbeil truffles, for pouring 
 down hot water, &c. on aflailants. 
 
 The church is admirably fitted up by the piety of Bifhop Church and 
 
 Tombs, 
 
 Gofin y who was to the diocefe of Durham what Bifhop 
 Hacket was to that of Litchfield, The feats, the pulpit, 
 the reading-defk, are carved; a neat fcreen, with tabernacle- 
 work before the altar, and flails there. In the middle, on 
 the- floor, two figures recumbent in oak of a foldier 
 and his wife ; he in armour, and with a collar of rofes^ 
 and a boar pendant; on his breaft a coat of arms; at his 
 feet a great dog. He lies on his creft, a bull's head. Mr. 
 Allan is unacquainted with the names of the perfons for 
 whom this was defigned. The female has on her head a 
 high hat flat at the top, and a long flap hanging down 
 each fide of her neck- At each of their feet is an angel 
 holding an altar* 
 
 Gn a brafs plate is an infcription to Richard Drax y 
 prieft, rector of this church, who died in 1456; and at 
 each corner of the ftone are plates, with the four beafts of 
 the Apocalypfe. 
 
 On 
 
CHURCH AND TOMBS. 
 
 On the fide of one is a flone figure, crofs-legged, {even 
 foot feven inches long, recumbent; chain-worked helmet, 
 and fhoulder-piece ; long-flriped veft ; arms and legs co- 
 vered with chain armour: on one arm is a fhield; a rich 
 fillet round his head, and rich flowered belt : he reclines on 
 a pillow; weeping angels and young lions, with a great lion 
 at his feet. The church is dedicated to ,5V. Brandon, an 
 IriJJj Saint, of the firfl reputation. The Golden Legend, 
 at P- 353> records his piety and miraculous adven- 
 tures. 
 
 On the fide of the chancel opening into the veflry, is 
 a round arch, with feveral arms painted, quartered, with 
 three boar's-heads : beneath is a vafi altar-tomb. 
 
 In the middle of the ve-flry-room is another; alfo a 
 very old cheft, neatly carved. 
 
 On the chancel-floor is a flone, infcribed to Thomas 
 Calverley de Littleburn, died 1613, set. 81: alfo to John 
 Caherley, Efq. Cuflos Rot. Durham, set. 61, 1638. 
 
 One of the family, in a jealous frenzy, determined to 
 murder his children, and did deflroy all but one, who was 
 at nurfe at fome diflance; was overtaken and terrified by 
 
 thunder, 
 
WHITWORTH. 17 
 
 thunder, and fo prevented. In remorfe, to preferve his 
 eftate to this one, he endured and died under the peine dure 
 et forte. . ■ ' 1 ' ' 
 
 I returned by TVhitworth^ Mr. Shaftos. In the church- Whitworth. 
 yard is a tomb of a knight crofs-legged ; his fhield over 
 his body, his fword beneath it ; his helmet over his face ; 
 an angel at his feet, a dog lying by him : he is called 
 Willia7n de Whitworth. 
 
 I breakfafted with Mr. Thomas Wright , at Biers Green^ Tier's 
 
 Green. 
 
 author of Louthiana, &c. His houfe fmall, admirably well Mr. Thomas 
 
 Wright. 
 
 contrived, with moft neat little rooms ; his collection of his 
 own drawings innumerable and fine : he had another volume 
 ready for another Louthiana> or rather of the antiquities of 
 Ireland. His drawings of buildings, for various purpofes, 
 of admirable fancy ; in particular one for an univerfal aca- 
 demy; another for an univerfal mufeum; a Chaldea pavi- 
 lion; a TholuS) on Varrios plan; a menagery, &c. are 
 of ftupendous magnificence, and imperial works only. 
 
 I returned with him to Bifhop Aukland. 
 
 The Bifhop of Durham^ when at Durham^ fits in the 
 choir on the right hand; in all other places on the left. 
 
 d On 
 
1 8 INSCRIPTION TO BISHOP COSIN. 
 
 Inscription On the gateway to Bifiop Aukland, was once this in- 
 
 to Bishop 
 
 Co sin. fcription : M Johannes Epifcopus Dunelmenfis totum hoc caf- 
 trum pofuit, et in formam quam nunc cernitur redegit." 
 The Bifhop here alluded to was John Cojin, who, on the 
 Reftoration, deftroyed the magnificent palace built by 
 the impious Hazelrig, and rebuilt it in its. prefent form.. 
 
 \Aug\ 28. I left Bi/hop Aukland, with a moft grateful 
 fenfe of the polite and friendly reception I met. with from 
 the hofpit.able prelate *. 
 
 Having in the preceding year 3 in my return from Scot- 
 land, taken from hence the route of Fierce-Bridge, on 
 my return home I determined this year to vary the road, 
 and to crofs the Tees at Bernard-Caftle, about fifteen miles 
 from Bifiop Atikland-. By taking a new way, I had the 
 advantage of feeing Raby-Caftle, and other places, worthy 
 the attention of the inquifitive traveller. At near a 
 mile and a half's ride, I quitted the road to Fierce-Bridge^.. 
 and. continued my. journey to Bemard-Caftle. 
 
 From this fpot the road takes a direction fouth-weft by 
 weft, through a fine country, in general level, varied 
 with, fmall rifings; of which the former inhabitants had. 
 
 * Bifliop Egerton. 
 
 taken. 
 
* 
 
AUKLAND ST. HELENS. — RABY-CASTLE. 
 
 *9 
 
 taken advantage, and erected a tower, or ftrong fmal 1 
 
 houfe: every man then feared his neighbour. I pafTed by 
 
 Aukland St. Helens, a chapelry, which, Mr. Hutchinfon Auk land St. 
 
 Helens. 
 
 fays, contained, in 1633, eight hundred communicants; 
 but the poor curate received no more than 4/. per ann. 
 from certain Garths, which were the greater! part of his 
 and his predecefTor's maintenance s and yet a wretch, who 
 had purchafed the prebend from which thofe dues if- 
 fued, and had been part of the revenues of fifteen cu- 
 rates fuccefiively, had the cruelty to refufe payment in 
 1633. How will every humane perfon rejoice to hear 
 that he loft the trial, and the tithes were awarded to be 
 paid to the plaintifTI 
 
 I pafTed through the hamlet of TV eft Aukland, and from 
 St. Helens Aukland to Raby-Caftle, four miles diftant. This 
 is the princely feat of the Earl of Darlington, whom I 
 found at breakfaft, and who received me with great po- 
 litenefs. It is an ancient fortrefs, was once the property of 
 the fee of Durham, and, in the reign of Edward III. permit- 
 ted by the bifhop to be embattled. It at times belonged to 
 the Buhners, the Cliftons, and the Nevilles, A tower bears 
 the name of the fir ft and laft ; the gateway that of Clifford, 
 It is an irregular but magnificent pile, and of great flze. 
 Some part has been burnt; and at prefent the great fquare 
 
 d 2 tower, 
 
 Raby 
 Castle, 
 
20 
 
 THE BULMERS. 
 
 tower, called Bulmers, is detached: all the towers are 
 fquare. It is furrounded by a great forTe ; part only is now 
 filled with water : a fine parade goes quite round the caftle 
 
 Bulmer's with battlements. On Bulmers tower was a great bas-relief 
 
 Tower. 
 
 of a bull, holding a flag-ftaff in one foot, with a flag to 
 it; and over his moulder is a fhield, with the Neville arms. 
 The founder has marked his tower with two great B B, 
 for Bertram Bulmer. The fculpture of the bull is now 
 removed into the front of a great caftle-houfe, built by his 
 lordfhip. Let me obferve, that the bull's head was the 
 creft of the Neville's, and bulls fupporters of their arms. 
 The bearings in the fhield, above the bull, fhew it to 
 have belonged to the Nevilles, and to have been put 
 up by one of the Earls of Wejl morel and, not a Bulmer, 
 
 The Bul- This great family, I prefume, took their name from 
 the W apo7ttake, of Bulmer, in York/hire, where it has great 
 pofTefiions. It flourifhed till the reign of Henry VIII,; 
 when Sir yohn Bulmer, and feveral other great men y difcon- 
 tented with the religious innovation, engaged, in 1 536, in the 
 rebellion, called the Pilgrimage of Grace ; of which AJke was 
 the leader. They alTembled a motley army of forty thou- 
 fand priefb, peafants, and labourers ; which were difperfed 
 by a proclamation, with offers of pardon at the head of an 
 army. The chiefs were taken and brought to capital punifh- 
 
 ment ; 
 
 M ERS. 
 
GRAND ENTRANCE. 
 
 21 
 
 ment ; among them was Sir John Bulmer, who was hanged, 
 drawn, and quartered, at Tyburn', and his wife, fome fay 
 his paramour, Margaret Cheincie, burnt in Smithjield. 
 The ufual attainders and forfeitures followed. Branches 
 of the family remained long after, and fome may exift to 
 this day. 
 
 The chief entrance into the caftle is on the weft, and Grand En. 
 
 TRANCE. 
 
 is very grand ; it leads to a fquare court, and in that is a 
 great hall, fupported by fix pillars ; the capitols diverging 
 and running in ribs along the arched roof. A ftaircafe 
 leads from this into an upper hall of the firft magnitude, 
 ninety feet long, thirty-fix broad, thirty-four high. Here 
 alTembled, in the time of the Nevilles, 700 knights, who 
 held of the family. 
 
 Over the chimney is a pi&ure of Queen Elizabeth. 
 
 In a break faft- room the receffes are in form of a femi- 
 circle, fcooped out, I may fay, of the wall, which are 
 nine feet one inch thick: a window is in each of thefe. 
 I faw alfo a recefs for a bed gained out of the wall, and 
 feveral other conveniencies and communications quarried 
 out of it ; and in fome places pillars are left, as in col- 
 lieries, to fupport the roof. 
 
 The 
 
OVEN. — KITCHEN. 
 
 The oven was of dimenflons fuited to the hoipitality of 
 the pile; higher than a tall perfon, for the talleft may 
 ftand upright in it, and I think its diameter muft be fif- 
 teen feet. At prefent it is converted into a wine-cellar; 
 the fides are divided into ten parts, and each holds a hog- 
 {head of wine in bottles. 
 
 Kitchen, The kitchen is a magnificent and lofty fquare; has three 
 chimnies, one for the grate, a fecond for ftoves, the third, 
 now flopped up, was for the great cauldron: the top is 
 arched, and a fmall cupola lights it in the center ; but on 
 the fides are five windows, with a gallery pafling all round 
 before them, and four fteps from each pointing down to- 
 wards the kitchen, but ending at a great height above the 
 floor, and feem neatly ornamented From the floor is 
 another ftaircafe that conducts to the great hall, but the 
 pafTage is now ftopt — What hecatombs muft have been 
 carried that way! 
 
 « 
 
 Pictures. The pictures in the houfe are few: a fine marriage of 
 St. Catherine , by Correggio. 
 
 Duke and Dutchefs of Cleveland, father and mother of 
 the prefent. 
 
 22 
 
 Oven. 
 
 Hen- 
 
PICTURES. 
 
 Henrietta Cavendijh, Countefs of Oxford. 
 
 Honourable Mrs. A?m V ane. 
 
 Dutchefs of Thomas Mollis > Duke of Newcajlle. ' 
 
 Lord Darlington rode with me round his grounds, which 
 are extenfive and well improved; his farm-houfe very hand- 
 fome, with a caftle front new built by him; his flock of hay 
 amazing; his plantations great , his grounds rife one above 
 another in form of terraffes, and the view they command 
 into Torkjhire great : the caftle lies on the loweft. A 
 ferpentine river is to range for three miles at the foot of the 
 loweft ; it will be very fine, but towards the end will be 
 difgraced by fome drip-drip-a-drips, mifcalled cafcades. 
 
 The view (from an urn) of the caftle is fine, and fhews 
 it in three parts very diftincl: and grand. 
 
 I dined here; the old Duke of Cleveland with us — a 
 cheerful, old. man, and in converfation very far from an 
 ideot. 
 
 Mi 
 
 The caftle is of great antiquity: Mr. Allan fuppofes it 
 to have been built by W altheof, Earl of Northumberland, 
 
 in 
 
24 PRETENDED TENURE OF RABY. 
 
 in the time of King Ethelred. It was held of the fee of 
 Durham, by the yearly rent of a ftag and 4/. upon St. 
 Cuthbert 's day, in September. I cannot trace the origin 
 
 Pretended 
 
 Tenure of of the claim, but it rauft have been early. It was warmly 
 
 R A B Y 
 
 claimed by the Nevilles, who pretended they held Raby 
 by that annual offering. It was as ftrenuoufly denied by 
 the priors of Durham, which occasioned great difputes. 
 I will inftance one between Ralph Neville and Hugh de 
 Darlington, the laft elected prior, about the year 1258: 
 — The prior alledged that the ofTering of the ftag was 
 rather a rent than an oblation ; in regard he held Raby, 
 with the eight adjoining townfhips, by the yearly rent of 
 four pounds and a ftag: for, contrary to the cuftom of his 
 anceftors, he not only required that the prior of Durham, 
 at the offering of the ftag, ought to feaft him and all 
 the company he mould bring, but that the prior's own 
 menial fervants fhould, for that time, be fet afide, and his 
 peculiar officers and fervants put in their ftead. Where- 
 upon, amongft other of his guefts, he invited John Bal- 
 ' Uol, of Barnard-Cajlle, who refufed to go with him, al- 
 ledging that he never knew the Nevilles to have fuch a 
 privilege there. Sir William de Brompton, the bifhop's 
 chief-juftice, likewife acknowledged that he himfelf was 
 the firft who began that extravagant practice; for being a 
 young man, and delighting in hunting, he came with 
 
 the 
 
CLAIM DROPPED. 
 
 25 
 
 the Lord Neville at the offering of the ftag, and faid to 
 his companions, Come, let us go into the abbey , and wind 
 our horns ; and fo they did. The prior further adding, 
 that before the time of this Ralph, none of his predecef- 
 fors ever made any fuch claim ; but when they brought 
 the ftag into the hall, they had only a breakfaft; nor did 
 the lord himfelf ever ftay dinner, except he was invited. 
 
 A fucceflion of altercations enfued between the Ne- Claim drop- 
 ped. 
 
 villes and the priors ; till at length the former, convinced 
 of the injuftice of their claim, refigned their preten- 
 tions. 
 
 But to return to the fucceflion to Raby. By the mar- How ac- 
 quired BY 
 
 riage of Geoffrey de Neville with IJabella, daughter and the Ne- 
 fole heirefs of Robert Fitz-Maldred, Lord of Raby, de- 
 fcended from Earl Waltheof, he became Lord of Raby, 
 From him defcended Ralph, created Earl of Wefimor eland 
 by Richard II. There were fix Earls of that title fuccef- 
 fively defcended from him; they became the moft power- 
 ful barons of their days. Added to them were numbers 
 of other Nevilles, probably allied to them, who enjoyed 
 peerages; among them, the famous Richard, Earl of War- 
 wick, himfelf a hoft. 
 
 e The 
 
26 REBELLION OF NEVILLE. 
 
 The laft Earl of Wejlmoreland was Charles, who, in 
 1569, brought utter ruin on himfelf and family, by his 
 Rebellion rebellion againft Queen Elizabeth. His riling was ill- 
 
 OF X H E L \ S T 
 
 ' concerted, and timidly conducted. After attempting to re- 
 ftore the mafs, and other popifh. ceremonies, in the cathe- 
 dral of Durham, he, and the Earl of Northumberland, 
 partner of his guilt, fled before the forces of Elizabeth, 
 headed by the Earl of Sujfex, and Sir George Bowes, of 
 Streatlam. Wejlmoreland took refuge in Flanders, where, 
 in time, he died in the mod miferable manner. A mod 
 mercilefs revenge was taken upon the poor commoners ; 
 the Earl of Sujfex caufed above a hundred to be hung in 
 different places : but Bowes put no limits to his cruelty ; 
 at Durham he executed threefcore and fix conftables, and 
 others ; after which he did execute in every market-town 
 fome, and other places between Newcaftle and Wetherby , 
 for about lixty miles in length and forty in breadth, as 
 fays Stowe, p. 664, " himfelf reported unto me." His pedi- 
 gree dignifies Sir George with the title of Knight- Marfhal; 
 it mould be Provojl- Marjhal, an office he was admirably 
 qualified for. 
 
 Forfeited. This noble caflle, Brancepeth, and all the vafi pofTeilion 
 of the Earl, were, on his attainder, vefted by Stat. 13. 
 Eliz. t 5 7 1 , in the crown 5 till granted by Charles I. to 
 
 Sir 
 
FALL OF THE GREAT EARL OF STRAFFORD. 2; 
 
 Sir Henry V ane, Knt. anceftor to the Earls of Darling- 
 ton, in whom it ftill continues. 
 
 I mull not quit Raby-Caffle } without mentioning that Raby— - the 
 
 Fall of thb 
 
 when that haughty ftatefman, Sir Thomas Wentworth, in great Earl 
 1640, was advanced to the dignity of Earl of Strafford, 
 and dignified with other titles, he, in contempt of Sir 
 Henry Vane, folicited and gained the title of Baron of 
 Raby, which the Vanes looked up and juftly thought they 
 had a claim to. This infolence of Strafford coft him his 
 head. Sir Henry V a7te purfued him with the moll unre- 
 lenting vengeance; aflbciated himfelf with Mr. Pym, and 
 other difcontented men of the time, and never defifted 
 from his purfuit till he had brought him to the block. 
 Thus, as Lord Clarendon obferves, Vol. I. p. 259, 260, 
 fell the greatefl: fubjecl: in the kingdom in power, and in- 
 ferior to few in fortune; a vi&im to his over-ruling paf- 
 fion — pride, by a wanton provocation, and by two things 
 he moll defpifed, the people, and Sir Harry Vane. 
 
 I proceeded to Staindrop, a fmall town, a mile diftant Staindrop. 
 from Raby. In the church are feveral tombs, one of ala- 
 bafter, very magnificent, in memory of Ralph, firft Earl 
 of Weflmoreland, who died in 1425. He has a conic 
 helmet, which refts on his creft, a bull's head; round his 
 
 e 2 fhoul- 
 
 ✓ 
 
28 
 
 STREATLAM. 
 
 moulders is a collar of S. S. up to his neck, in net-work, 
 over which hung his whifkers. By him lie his two wives; 
 his firft, a daughter to Hugh> Earl of Stafford, was buried 
 at Brancepeth\ his fecond, "Joan, daughter of *John of 
 Gaunt, lies by him; by her he had iffue, eight fons and 
 five daughters. 
 
 The other tomb reprefents Henry, fifth Earl of Wefl- 
 moreland, between two of his three wives : he died in 
 1 564. His head is without a helmet, and covered with 
 hair in fhort drops; round his neck is a chain, with the 
 George pendant. Among his children around the tomb 
 (which is of oak), is the unfortunate Charles before men- 
 tioned. 
 
 I left on the right, about three miles diftant from 
 Streatlam. Staindrop, Streatlam, the feat of the Bowes; a modern 
 houfe, built of good Afljler ftone, in form of a Roman H. 
 The fituation is very indifferent: report made it not worth 
 a vifit. I, therefore, have trufted to Mr. Grofes account, 
 and the print in the Antiquary's Repertory, p. 277. 
 
 Streatlam was part of the polTeilions of Bernard, Ba- 
 li ol, grandfather of John Baliol, King of Scotland, and 
 founder of Bernard Cajlle. Sir John Trayne acquired 
 
 Streatlam- 
 
THE BOWES.— BERNARD-CASTLE. 
 
 29 
 
 Streatlam-Caftle and lordfhip by his marriage with Agnes, 
 niece to Baliol. Alice, the produce of the match, trans- 
 ferred it to Sir Adam Bowes, about 13 10; and the family 
 continued poflelTed of it to the prefent time. 
 
 The new houfe, jufl defcribed, was erected on the 
 fcite of a caftle built by a Sir William Bowes, knighted at The Bowes. 
 the battle of Verneuil, in 1424. In 1767, the place de- 
 parted from the ancient family of Bowes, by the marriage 
 of that terrible woman, in body and mind, Mary Elea- 
 nor, only child of George Bowes, Efq. Knight of the fhire 
 for the county of Durham, to that accomplifhed noble- 
 man, yohn, Earl of Strathmore; whom fhe foon drove 
 into his grave by intemperance, the refult of his conduct. 
 This terrible woman, in 1777, married as terrible a man, 
 in the Irijh Andrew Robinfon Stoney, who, I have heard, 
 and really believe, did his beft to revenge the caufe of 
 her amiable lord. 
 
 1 rode along a good inclofed country: at a diftance 
 appear the high moors, which piece with others equally 
 barren in York/hire. I reached Bernard-Cajlle, about Bernard- 
 two miles farther a large town, on the fleep fide of a 
 hill, on the banks of the Tees, once considerable for its 
 manufacture of Scotch camlets, but now much on the de- 
 cline. 
 
r 
 
 WHEN FOUNDED.—COMES TO THE VANES. 
 
 cline. The church is battlemented, but does not boafl of 
 a fteeple^ the chief hreet long and fteep. The town had 
 great privileges granted by the Baliols, and for a long 
 fpace it was annexed to Scotland. 
 
 The fortrefs was founded about the year 1 1 70, by 
 Ber?iard Baliol, great-grandfather to John Baliol, King 
 of Scotland. The family of Baliol held it from the crown 
 for five defcents, per baroniam integrum, with juria rega- 
 lia, fays Spearman, p. 48, till the defection of John Ba - 
 liol, when Edward I. granted it to Beck, Bifhop of Dur- 
 ham : but finding he abufed his power, granted it to Guy 
 Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, whofe family held it to the 
 time of Edward IV. In after times, we find it polTeffed 
 by the Nevilles. On the rebellion of Charles, Earl of 
 Wejlmoreland, it was feized by Sir George Bowes, who 
 kept it againft all the power of the rebels, till want of 
 provilions compelled him to furrender, which he did on 
 the moll: honourable terms. 
 
 Comes to The caftle, honour, and privileges, were purchafed by 
 the Vanes. 
 
 an anceftor of the prefent Earl of Darlington ; and, in 
 1640, Sir Henry Vane had a grant of fundry privileges 
 annexed to the manor of Baby, and the honour of Ber- 
 nard-CaJlle. William III. eredted the kft into a barony, 
 
 and 
 
 When 
 Founded. 
 
BERNARD-CASTLE. 
 
 and conferred the title on Sir Chriflopher Vane\ and now 
 it gives title of Lord Bernard to the eldeft fon of the 
 Earls of Darlington — a title firft beftowed on Henry V ane, 
 in the year 1754. 
 
 The caftle impends high above the river, and has a 
 moft venerable extent of front, almoft totally clothed 
 with thick ivy. A round- tower, of great fize, graces it 
 on the weft end, built of fine j4Jhler ftone; the vault 
 over the lower part ftill remains, and is finely conftructed, 
 plain, without ribs, or any fupport: the caftle is of 
 great extent; the keep, or inner-court, is protected by a 
 vaft foffe cut out of the rock, with a portal at one end. 
 From the caftle is a moft beautiful view up the Tees, of a 
 Jong reach with rocky wooded banks; and downwards of 
 a pretty bridge of two arches.. 
 
 Mr. William Hutchinfon> attorney at law, the topogra- 
 pher of the counties of Durham and Northumberland, 
 and his brother Robert , of Sidney- College, Cambridge, 
 fupped with me. The laft draws finely, and promifed 
 me many fketches ; but his death fpeedily prevented the 
 performance. 
 
 Aug* 
 
EGLESTON- ABBEY. 
 
 Aug, 29. — This morning I croiTed the bridge over the 
 Tees, and immediately entered the North-Riding of 
 
 YORKSHIRE; 
 
 in the civil divifion called Richmond/hire, and in the ec- 
 clefiaftical, ftyled the Deanery of Richmond, in the dio- 
 cefe of Chefler. After a ride of half a mile, I reached the 
 remains of Eglejlon- Abbey* ', feated on the high cliffs of 
 the Tees : part of the houfe is entire, and at prefent occu- 
 pied by a farmer. The ruins of the church are in form of 
 a crofs, and are confiderable ; the ftyle, that of the later 
 Gothic. It is now deflitute of monuments; but, in the 
 time of Leland-\, ftood two fair tombs; one of Sir Ralph 
 Bowes, the other of a Rokefby, This had been a houfe 
 of P retnonjlrulenfian Canons, founded, according to Bimop 
 Tanner % ( on the authority of the AJhfnolea?! manufcript), 
 by Ralph de Mult on, before the year 1207; for I find his 
 name to a grant to his abbey, of the manors of Eglejlon 
 and Kihington, made by Philip de PoiSliers, who was Bi- 
 fhop of Durham, from 1 195 to that year §. Out of thefe 
 he referved five marks a year to his church of Thornton, 
 It alfo appears that the manors had been held of the fee 
 
 * Buck. ii. 325. 
 
 t i- 38. t 677. 
 
 § Goodwin, 117. 
 
 of 
 
EGLESTON-ABBEY. 
 
 of Durham, by Gilbert de Leya, by the fervice of find- 
 ing one foldier; and that, before the bifhop made this 
 grant, he obtained the confent of Marillis, widow of 
 Ley a *. 
 
 The regular number of canons refident here, were thir- 
 teen; but fix more were afterwards added by John de 
 Dreux, Earl of Brittany and Richmond, for the purpofe 
 of officiating at his caftle at Richmond. The agreement, 
 between him and the abbot, is dated in 1 275 f ; by which 
 the canons, and their fueceflbrs, are bound to find fix of 
 their convent to celebrate divine fervice in the caftle for 
 ever. The firft to fing mafs for the day, or feftival, or of 
 the Holy Ghoft, with note; the fecond, of the BlefTed Vir- 
 gin, with folemn note; the third, for the foul of his wife 
 Beatrix: and the fame perfon (on the death of the earl), 
 is then to fay mafs for both their fouls jointly ; adding the 
 office for all other fouls departed in peace. The fourth 
 and fifth, the mafs of the Holy Virgin without note; and 
 the fixth for the foul of Beatrix, till the death of the 
 earl; and afterwards for both their fouls, and the fouls of 
 all the faithful deceafed J. Thefe fix were to be perpe- 
 
 * Dugdale Mon. ii. 196. f Ibid. 
 
 % Dugdak's Baron. I. p. 51. 
 
 tually 
 
EGLESTON- ABBEY. 
 
 tually refident in the caftle; but their places were to be 
 fupplied by others in the convent, fo that the number of 
 thirteen mould always be kept up. 
 
 In consideration of thefe conceflions, the earl beftowed 
 on the abbot and canons, and their fucceffors, his capital 
 meffuage at Multcn, and the lands belonging to it; with 
 eight bovateSy or ox-gangs of land, near the fame eftate. 
 He alfo allowed them twenty-four cart-loads of turf, and 
 twenty of heath, annually : allotted them an apartment in 
 the caftle, with free ingrefs and egrefs, excepting in time 
 of war, when he prudently reftrained them to the faying 
 their mafTes in their, own convent. 
 
 According to Dugdale y its revenues were 36/. Ss. $d. 
 Edward VI. granted it to Robert Shelley r , or Strelley. 
 Mr. Hytehinfony in his Tour to the Lakes, p. 370, gives 
 a plate of the remains, and names them thofe of Athelr 
 flan- Abbey. 
 
 Leland celebrates the fine quarry of black and white 
 marble found in the cliffs of the Tees y near this place. 
 
 The river runs in a moft pi&urefque channel, precipi- 
 tous, deep, and darkfome; fhaded by the trees impend- 
 ing 
 
EGLESTON-BRIDGE. s 
 
 ing from the fummits of the rocks that bound it on 
 
 each fide. Below the abbey is a moft magnificent bridge, _ 
 
 J D ° Egleston 
 
 of a lingle arch, built by Mr. Morrit, of Rokeby-Park- } Bridge. 
 of a ftupendous height, is now flung from rock to 
 rock, and adds much to the richnefs of the fcenery. 
 The reach of the river runs eaft of it for a considerable 
 way, in a manner wildly charming. I lamented the lofs 
 of it, notwithftanding it was compenfated by variety 
 of new Beauties, and ideas ariiing from the contempla- 
 tion of works of art, the labours of periods, fome remote, 
 others of the paft age; others again that do honour to 
 the prefent. 
 
 Mr. Hutchinfon, in his third volume of Durham, 
 p. 279, 280, 281, has prefented us with three moft de- 
 lightful views on the rocky courfe of the Tees. We are 
 told that Nature has been, for the greater part of the 
 way, wildly prodigal of the awful and pi&urefque fce- 
 nery, exhibited in the time-worn rocky-bed. 
 
 The Tees, the difputed Tuefis of the ancients, rifes in 
 Crofsfell mountain, and paries through the Weel-Lake, 
 on the borders of Wejlmor 'eland, into the bifhopric. The 
 flrft of the wonders is Winch-Bridge, flung over the river 
 
 f 2 from 
 
EGLESTON- BRIDGE. 
 
 from precipice to precipice, about two miles above Mid- 
 dleton^ where the water falls in repeated cataracts. It is 
 made of chains ftretched from rock to rock, feventy feet 
 in extent, over a chafm of fixty feet deep. The bridge 
 is only two feet wide, with a hand-rail on one fide, and 
 planked at the bottom. It is a common pafTage for ftrong- 
 headed miners; but fuch is its tremendous motion, and 
 fuch the awe of the dreadful gulph beneath, that few are 
 the paflengers t befides, I dare fay, that the architect of 
 this bridge never heard of that of Chooka, in the diftant 
 Bootan^ flung acrofs a river of the fame name; ftretched 
 from buttrefs to buttrefs, founded on the rocks, and, in 
 all refpe&s, conftructed with chains, and planked at bot- 
 tom. Yet, in my Hindoofian y II. tab. xiii. I can produce 
 one not more wonderful than that of the confentaneous 
 thought of a BritiJJj bridge-builder, at thoufands of miles 
 diftance. 
 
 The pafTage over the 'Tees at Caldron-fnout is lefs artifi- 
 cial, but attended with ten thoufand more horrors than 
 the preceding. It is upon a fingle beam* of forty feet, placed 
 from buttrefs to buttrefs, without any rail, over the deepefl: 
 part of a vaft chafm. In the level part of the country is 
 a long canal, in which the river is as dull as that of Lethe. 
 
 It 
 
EGLESTON-BRIDGE. 
 
 It arrives at the brink of a precipice, and rufhes inftantly, 
 from fteep to fteep, along a feries of Hopes, and falls for 
 the fpace of two hundred yards, foaming and roaring with 
 the opposition of the rocks, and bounded on each part 
 by mural and columnar fides, darkening the deep abyfs. 
 A Weljhman would call this bridge of beam the moft 
 magnificent Pont-pren in the univerfe! 
 
 I now fpeak of a third cataract, called Tees-force, about 
 twelve miles above Bernard- Caftle, in which art has no 
 concern. It is a magnificent exertion of nature in the 
 elements of rock and water:— a vaft theatrical chafm, 
 bounded by noble mural rocks, often fpiring into columns, 
 and darkened with trees, ifluing out of the fiftures of the 
 horizontal ftrata of ftone on which they reft. Thefe 
 fhade numbers of caves and grottoes, in which parties 
 often dine with the. moft pleafing luxury of fcenery. 
 The water appears at % the head of the chafm in two falls, 
 which foon unite, and fall with a dreadful noife and vaft 
 fpray, eighty- two feet into a deep bafon; the whole exhi- 
 biting a fcene inexprellibly grand. 
 
 After leaving Eglejlon-Bridge, I foon fell in with the 
 ancient military way that led to Lavatra> or Bowes- 
 Caftle, weftward; and to Greata-Bridge, the old Mag- 
 love, 
 
3§ 
 
 HOKEBY-HOUSE. 
 
 love, and from thence to CataraSlonium, or Catarrik, 
 fouthward. 
 
 Rokeby- Rokeby, an elegant houfe in the Italian flyle, built by- 
 Sir 1 horn as Rohinfon — well known in his day by the name 
 of Long Tom — from a delign by William Wakefield, Efq. 
 in 1724, diverted me a little from my road. The front 
 extends ninety- fix feet: it has a ruftic-bafement, and in 
 the centre four columns and two pilaflers fupport a Corin- 
 thian ordonance. The entrance is through a low vefti- 
 bule in the ground-floor, in which are feveral low apart- 
 ments ; more fuitable to the warm climate of Italy than 
 to our chilly vapoury regions, where the fun mould meet 
 the fullefr. welcome. In the principal ftory is a gallery, 
 iixty-feven feet long: in this, as well as throughout the 
 houfe, is a profufion of ftatues, bufts, fculptures, and 
 moft elegant fepulchral urns, collected from abroad; and 
 
 in a room, called the Mufeum. are piled, in diforder, mul- 
 
 Antiqui- ' -J J r » 
 
 ties. titudes of altars, infcriptions, fculptures, &c. found either 
 at the adjoining ftation and burying- ground, near Greata- 
 B ridge, and at Bowes-Cafile, or brought here from the 
 caftle of Naworth, in Cumberland, and gathered from the 
 neighbouring ftations on the wall. I fhall mention only 
 thofe that were difcovered in this part of Tork/hire, and 
 •ferve to contribute towards the hiftory of the place. 
 
 The 
 
ROKEBY-HOUSE. 39 
 
 The firfl is a milliare, or mile-ftone, found on the fide Roman 
 
 Mile-Stone. 
 
 of the road near Rokehy ; for the Romans , as well as our- 
 felves, marked the diftances by ftones, ad quartum lapi- 
 dem *, ad decimum lapidem f . This, and others which I 
 have feen, are of a cylindric form, and very high. The 
 infcription, on theftone preferved here, , is addrefTed to the 
 emperor Gal/us, and his fon V olujianus, whom he had af- 
 fociated with him in the empire. Imperatoribus Dominis 
 nojlris Gallo et Volusiano Augustis. 
 
 The next antiquity is an altar, found near Greata- Altar. 
 Bridge", infcribed, as Mr. Horfely ingenioufly conjectures, 
 to the little river Elauna, or Lune, which falls into the 
 Tees, a. few miles higher. The infcription runs thus: — 
 Deje Nymphs Elaunje Inebrica et Januaria jilia.libentes 
 ex voto folverunt., 
 
 The honours paid to rivers and their deities are not 
 unfrequently exemplified in the clafTical writers. Achilles, 
 in defpair of returning to his native country, and per- 
 forming his father's vow, of facriflcing his golden locks 
 to the river Sperchius, places them in the hands of his 
 departed Patroclus. 
 
 * Suetonius, . Vit, Oft. Caef. Aug. c. 94. f L'.vii. 
 
4-0 
 
 ROKEBY-HOUSE. 
 
 Lmi^yit, ctWois, &C. * 
 
 Sperchius, whofe waves in mazy errors loft, 
 
 Delightful roll along my native coaft ! 
 
 To whom we vainly vow'd, at our return, 
 
 Thefe locks to fall, and hecatombs to burn : 
 
 Full fifty rams to bleed in facrifice, 
 
 Where to the day thy filver fountains rife ; 
 
 And where in fhade of confecrated bow'rs 
 
 The altars Hand, perfum'd with native flow'rs ! 
 
 So vow'd my father. Pope. 
 
 Another. The laft is an altar, difcovered at the fame place with 
 the former. To whom it was dedicated does not appear, 
 that part of the infcription being defaced: but the perfon 
 who devoted it was Ellinus^ a beneficiar'tus^ or attendant 
 on the conful of the upper province, ox Britannia fecun- 
 da\ which, according to the di virion made by Severus^ 
 comprehended the weft of England -f. 
 
 I now defcend to more pleating works, and of later 
 
 5 o r t r a i t s ^ at:e ~ — to an account of a f ew portraits of perfonages, dif- 
 tinguimed in this and the laft century. Among them 
 appears that gallant commander, Lord Hop ton, a fine half 
 length, in armour, with buff fleeves and ikirts; with a 
 truncheon, in fhort hair ; aet. 51. This nobleman is cha- 
 
 * Iliad, xxiii. v. 144. f Gale's Comm. 3. 
 
 ra&erifed, 
 
ROKEBY-HOUSE. 
 
 ra&erifed, by Lord Clarendon, as the firft in integrity and 
 virtue in the royal army; of a good understanding, clear 
 courage, indefatigable induftry, and inexhauftible genero- 
 iity, but too flow in his refolutions; and when refolved, 
 not always conftant in perfevering in them. Yet it ap- 
 pears that his fuccefles were the refult of his own merit ; 
 his defeats, the fault of his men, or the effect of the 
 weaknefs of his army, and the jealoufy of the officers 
 under him. When he undertook the command of the 
 fragment of the weftern army, he acted in conformity to 
 an heroic obedience to the royal order. He forefaw he 
 muft lofe his honour, if any honour could be loft by a 
 brave man, from the diffolution of an army of difpirited 
 foldiers and envious officers. He met with his final defeat 
 at Torri?tgton, fled to the prince in Silley, and died in the 
 year 1652. 
 
 A celebrated beauty fucceeds this rough warrior: Ifa- 
 bella, daughter and fole heirefs to the famous ftatefman, 
 Henry Bennet, Earl of Arlington. She married the flrft 
 Duke of Grafton, flain at the liege of Cork in 1690, and 
 furvived him thirty -two years. She is painted fitting, 
 with a book in her hand; dreffed in red, with a blue 
 mantle. 
 
 G 
 
 I faw, 
 
/ 
 
 2 ROKEBY-HOUSE. — MAGLOVE. 
 
 I faw, with deteftation, the head of that oftentatious 
 monarch, Louis XIV, ; that depopulator of Europe in 
 the laft and prefent century. I fpeak this as a citizen of 
 the world! As an Englijhman^ I admire thofe follies that 
 flung an immenfe and endlefs fund of wealth and manu- 
 facture into our ifland ; the bleiTing of which every coun- 
 try is fenfible of } except itfelf. 
 
 The portrait of Sir Robert Walpole concludes the lift: 
 that focial benevolent minifter, born to nurture, fupport, 
 and mature thofe advantages, which unfeeling tyranny had 
 flung into our power. 
 
 After leaving the houfe, 1 walked through the exten- 
 Great a- five plantations, and down to the Great a \ a pretty river 
 
 Rjver. n i • i i r 
 
 flowing between high mural rocks, finely wooded. It 
 here forms feveral fmall cafcades, whofe waters have at 
 times heaped up, a little below, piles of ftone of raoft 
 tremendous and uncommon magnitude, 
 
 On croffing a wooden-bridge, I found myfelf in a large 
 meadow, bounded on two fides by the Greata and the 
 Tees, where their junction is effected. This fpace I take 
 Mag love, to have been the fcite of the ancient Mag/ove. The 
 
 Roma?is 1 
 
BIES. 
 
 MORTON-TOWER.— THE ROKEBIES. 43 
 
 Romans , it is fud, had a bridge over the Great a to it; 
 built below the fpot occupied by the prefent. 
 
 At the top of this field is Morton, or, as Leland calls 
 
 it, Mortham-Tower, an old houfe of defence: confifting Morton- 
 
 ° Tower. 
 
 of a fquare tower, with a leffer at each corner. Here 
 are fome lower buildings, and a battlemented- court : over 
 a door are the arms of the Rokebies y the former owners, The Roke^ 
 who had ponefTed it for ages, and with great reputation. 
 It had the honour of producing 'Thomas de Rokeby, twice 
 chief-juftice of Ireland, in the reign of Edward III. ; 
 who left the country, after reforming the infamous cuf- 
 tom of coigne and livory* ; and with that amiable faying, 
 that he would eat in woodefi dijhes, but pay for his meat in 
 gold and Jilver. 
 
 A fecond Thomas Rokeby was the valiant fherifT of the! 
 county, in the reign of Henry IV. who, with an inferior 
 force, confiding of the powers of the fhire, attacked, 
 defeated, and flew, the rebellious peers, the Earl of Nor- 
 thumberland and Lord Bardolfe, in 1408, on Bar ham- 
 Moor, fouth-eaft of York, This eftate was purchafed in 
 the reign of Elizabeth , from Sir Thomas Rokeby, by Wil- 
 
 * Fuller's Worthies, p. 218. 
 
 g 2 Ham 
 
 V, 
 
44 
 
 GREATA-BRIDGE. — WYCLIFF. 
 
 Ham Robin/on, a defcendant of the clan Struan, in Scot- 
 land; in whofe family it continued till it was fold by the 
 prefent Sir Thomas Rohinfon (with the houfe and all its 
 curious contents), to Sawry Morrit> Efq. 
 
 I returned the fame way to Rokeby, rode through the 
 Great a- park, and got again on the high road at Gr -eat a- Bridge ; 
 
 Bridge. . 
 
 an elegant ftructure, with balluftraded battlements. About 
 half a mile from thence, on the Lees, is Wycliff, a new 
 houfe, belonging to my worthy and refpected friend, Mar- 
 maduke r>u72jlall^ Efq. in the parifh of the fame name. 
 Wycliff. The celebrated John TVy 'cliffy the proto-reformer, took 
 his name from this place; being that of his birth. He 
 bravely withftood the incroachments of the Mendicant 
 orders, at length attacked the tenets of the church of 
 Rome, and had the good fortune to die in peace, in 
 1384; leaving his bones for his adverfaries to wreak their 
 revenge on, twenty-eight years after, by taking them up 
 and burning them to allies. 
 
 My courfe was now directed nearly fouthward, along 
 rt of the W ailing- fir eet road, called Seeming-lane ; 
 which bears the fame name for numbers of miles in this 
 place : it runs along the middle of a lofty ridge almolr. 
 (Irak. The fubjacent country, on both fides, is very 
 
 plea- 
 
FORCET. — RAVENSWATH-CASTLE. 
 
 45 
 
 pleafant, being finely cultivated. On the weft is a far- 
 winding valley, on the eaft an extenfive plain. 
 
 From a natural round-mount, called Didirfton-Hill, Didirston. 
 I had a moft extenfive view; a little to the eaft is Forcet, Forcet. 
 a feat belonging to Mr. Shuttleworth, in old times one of 
 the numerous manors of the Earls of Bretagny and Rich- 
 mond. The monks of the cells of *SV. Martin, near the 
 town of Richmond, by the piety of Stephen, third earl of 
 that line, had two fheafs of all the tythes of this de- 
 mefne. 
 
 I continued my journey, and near the road obferved a 
 fmall obfervatory camp, with a prcetorium. I muft not 
 omit that on the right in the bottom lay Ravenfwath- Ravens- 
 
 W A TH- 
 
 Cafile, the property of the Fitz-hughs, from the time of Castle. 
 the Conqueror to that of Henry VII. when it pafled by a 
 female to the family of the Parrs *. 
 
 You have near the camp a diftant view of j4jk, Rich- 
 mond, and Gilling ; places vifited and defcribed in my 
 journey of 1772. I muft here recal my fuppofition, that 
 the firft had been the property of Sir Robert j4jk, leader 
 
 * Dugdale's Baron, i. 402, 405. 
 
 of 
 
CATARRICK. — ROMAN ROADS. 
 
 of the rebellion called the Pilgrimage of Grace, in the 
 reign of Henry VIII, That gentleman was of the an- 
 cient family of the Afkes^ of Aughton, fix or feven com- 
 puted miles north of Howden* \ on his execution in 1537, 
 the family probably fell to ruin. 
 
 We leave on the left Middkton-Tyas, a parifh noted, fome 
 years paft, for a very rich copper-mine; found, I think, 
 on the vicarial glebe. 
 
 Catarrick. I defcended to Catarrick-Bridge, of four arches, over the 
 Swale. At the fouth end is an ancient buildings, with 
 fmall windows, formerly a chapel. On the oppolite fide 
 of the river, near the church, flood the Roman flation . 
 Catarractonium\ of which, at prefent, there are no re- 
 mains. The former celebrity of this place has beenjuftly 
 inferred from two obfervations of Ptolemy, made on this 
 fpot; the one of the length of the longer!: day here, the 
 other of its latitude from the equator. I may alfo remark 
 a third inftance of its importance, in having two military 
 Roads. ways branching from it to the north; one to Greata y 
 the other to Pierce-Bridge, and a third to Ifurium, or 
 Aldborough. The church and village lie a mile from the 
 
 * Gent. Mag. 1754. 358, 408. 
 
 bridge, 
 
HORNBY-CASTLE. 
 
 47 
 
 bridge, on the road fide: at one end of the village is a 
 large mount, called Pollards, which is the only relique 
 of antiquity I could perceive. 
 
 The Swale now is freed from its rocky bed, fuch as 
 kept it within bounds in Swale-Dale; but here flowing 
 through a flat country, and, clear of conftraint, makes a 
 moft licentious ufe of its liberty, by ravaging far and 
 wide. 
 
 A little fouth of the eighteen mile-ftone are veftiges 
 of dikes; and in a field on the left ftands a tumulus. 
 Near this is Leafes, a fmall neat houfe of Mr. Mar- 
 riGt. 
 
 Hornby-Caftle, a fine feat of Lord Holdernefs, and the Hornby- 
 
 C A 5 x L £ 
 
 great tower of Bedal-Church, were feen at fome diftance 
 on the right; and far beyond them the high hills near 
 slfcrig. To the left appear thofe of Black-Hamilton, 
 noted for the races — infames fcofuli! where many a fair 
 fortune has been wrecked. The road, at this time, was 
 filled with fures minores gentis, hot from York races, to 
 the great annoyance of the quiet pafTenger, 
 
 I pafled 
 
4 8 
 
 DANISH TILTING-CIRCLES. 
 
 I pafTed through the village of Seeming, which gives 
 name to this long lane. CrofTed a canal. 
 
 I reached the JVeiv-Itw, a very neat houfe, twelve miles 
 from Borough-Bridge, in the parifh of Burnijlon'y and 
 within fight of Pickil -Church. 
 
 Aug. 30. — I returned northward for about half a mile, 
 and quitted the great road, riding weft ward. I pafTed by 
 Bumi/Ion- Church, a handfome embattled building, with a 
 pretty fpire : I foon after went through the village of Cathorp, 
 and after pa fling feveral clayey lanes, reached Thorriborough- 
 . Heath. About this common are three of thofe circular 
 
 )anish 
 
 ilting- enclofures, which are attributed to the Danes, and called 
 
 1RCLES. 
 
 camps. They lie in a line palling from north-weft to fouth- 
 caft, about nine hundred yards, diftant from each other. 
 It feems to me that they were not deflgned as places of re- 
 treat, in a country hoftile to them; for the great foffe, 
 which would have been the chief fecurity, is on the inner 
 fide. Their form,, as I have juft mentioned, is an exact 
 circle. The firft thing obfervable is the outmoft ring, 
 which conilfts of a, very fmall ditch: about twenty-four 
 paces from that is a mound, or dike, of earth, of a vaft 
 llze, not lefs than twelve or fourteen feet high, covered 
 with fod, and Hoping both outwardly and inwardly. At 
 
 the 
 
DANISH TILTING-CIRCLES. 
 
 49 
 
 the foot of this a terrafs, fourteen paces broad, furrounds 
 a very deep ditch, at leaft lixteen paces broad at top. This 
 inclofes a circular area, fmooth and even as could be form- 
 ed, about a hundred and thirty-two yards in diameter. 
 To this are two entrances, exactly in the middle, and op- 
 ponte to each other. Thefe are cut through the dyke, 
 and fill the ditch in that part, to the level of the area. 
 
 One of thefe circles is very entire ; the other has been 
 injured by the plough. I mention a third, which I faw 
 in a furvey I was lately favoured with ; for I did not walk 
 far enough to difcover it. 
 
 The intent of thefe rings is cleared up by Saxo Gram- 
 maticus % Among the northern nations duels were fought 
 within circles: if the combat was fudden, the fpe&ators 
 themfelves formed the ring, as is cuftomary with mobs from 
 the days of Ajax f to the prefent time. If the combatants 
 were men of rank, and the caufe important, then the ring 
 was inclofed with pales, or with ftones, or earth. This 
 place was called, in the old Danijh, Holmur\ a (ingle 
 combat, Holm-ganga\ to enter into the ring at gange a 
 hchn\ and the laws of duel Holm-ganga leg. 
 
 * Lib. iii. p. 48, and Notes, p. 97. 
 t Confedere duces et vulgi ftante corona, 
 Surgit, &c. 
 
 h The 
 
DANISH TILTING-CIRCLES. 
 
 The terraces were allotted for the numerous fpectators, 
 who fat round this arctic amphitheatre ; the entrances 
 placed oppolite to each other, for the champions to enter 
 at, to divide the field ; and on the fignal given by the he- 
 ralds, to rufh on each other, to make their congre£us y 
 and to deal out their wrath according to the precife laws 
 of duel. 
 
 Saxoy in his account of that between Ubbo and S/avus 9 
 gives a lively account of all that might be fuppofed to 
 have happened here :— 
 
 Nec mora, Circulatur campus. Milite circus Jlipatur. 
 Concurrunt pugi/es. Fit fragor. Fremit fpeclatrix turba 
 votorum difcors. Excandefcunt igitur athleta animis^ et 
 mutuis in vulneribus ruentes> eundem lucis^ ac pugna exi- 
 ium fortiuntur*. 
 
 The fate of the conquered was uncertain, and depended 
 on the humour or generofity of the vi&or, or the fub- 
 jecl of the quarrel. If it was only a point of honour, 
 the bodies of the ilain were allowed the honours of a fu- 
 neral. If not— 
 
 * Lib. i|i> p. 48. 
 
 Putida 
 
WEST-TANFIELD. 5 
 
 Putida fpargantur campis, aviumque terenda 
 Morfibus. 
 
 Or, as our Shakfpeare expreffes :— 
 
 Their monuments 
 
 Shall be the maws of kites. 
 
 I imagine that the duels performed in thele places fell 
 within the firft defcription ; for I found between two of 
 the circles four tumult , fmajl, round, and exactly in a 
 line with each other: and, to the north-weft of the mid- 
 dle are, noted in the plan, three others, which efcaped 
 my notice. 
 
 I muft obferve that the ring near Penrith, in Cumber* 
 land, is an exacl: miniature of thefe ; and, I dare fay, 
 was formed for the fame purpofe. All thefe are of the 
 fame fize: their whole diameter, from outer- ditch to 
 outer-ditch, is two hundred and fixty-four yards. 
 
 Not far from r Ihornborough lies the village of Janfield, West-Tan- 
 
 FI ELD. 
 
 where the land nfes fuddenly, and prefents a pidlurefque 
 front, clothed with trees. The river Ure, ruftnng out 
 of Wenjley-Dale, here finds entrance into the open coun- 
 try : I crofted the ftream on a bridge of four arches, and 
 
 h 2 paffed 
 
THE MARMIONS. 
 
 palled through the village. In heland\ time here was 
 only a ferry. The owners of this trad, in old times, 
 were the Jemegans*. In former days the king, as well 
 as the fair, was to be woed, in order to obtain a rich heirefs, 
 if me held of the crown. Thus, in the reign of King 
 John, Robert Marmion, a potent baron, gave his majefty 
 three hundred and fifty marks, and five palfreys, for leave 
 to marry Amice, daughter of Jernegan Fitzhugh f, by 
 whom he got this and other great eftates. His grandfon 
 John obtained from Edward I, a charter, for free warren 
 on moft of his property. 
 
 Maud^ wife to John Marmion, fon to the former, 
 founded in the church a chauntry, confifting of a warden 
 and three priefts, to pray for her foul, that of her hufband, 
 and thofe of all their defcendants. 
 
 His fon Robert^ being a man of a weak conftitution, 
 married his fecond fifter Avice to Sir John Grey, of Ro~ 
 therfie/d, and their children aflumed the name of Mar- 
 mi on. By Elizabeth, daughter of Sir Robert Grey, one of 
 their defcendants, it was conveyed to her hufband, Henry 
 Fitzhugh, one of the heroes of the reigns of Henry V. 
 
 * Camden, ii. p. 920. 
 
 I Dugdale\ Baron, ii. p. 377. 
 
 and 
 
THE MARMIONS. 
 
 53 
 
 and VI. Another female of his line married Sir PFilliam 
 Parr ; and on the failure of iffue male, by the death of 
 Richard Fitzhugh, it fell to his fon, Sir Thomas Parr, 
 
 I did not vifit the church, but find by fome notes of Tombs. 
 Roger Gale, Efq. that in 1729 the following monuments 
 exifted : a very ancient one on the north fide, with the 
 arms of Marmion, Grey of Rotherfield, and Defpe?tcer. On 
 another, near the former, a knight in armour, crofs legged ; 
 and two more old tombs without arms or infcriptions. 
 Another made of fine alablafter, with a figure of a large 
 man in armour, and a woman lying by him ; but neither 
 arms nor infcription. All, except the firft, belonged to the 
 Marmions. This probably is of John Lord Marmion, who 
 built the caftle; or of his fon John, whofe widow Maud, 
 daughter of Lord Furnival, founded the chantry in this 
 church. 
 
 In a fouth window were two efcutcheons, one of the 
 arms of the Marmions ; the other of the St, ^uintins. In 
 another fouth window was a figure of a man in a furcoat 
 kneeling, and above him this infcription : " Prie pro Jo- 
 han, Mar my on Chival." And in one of the chancel win- 
 dows, the arms of the Fitzhughes ; and in the eaft windows 
 
 thofe 
 
54 
 
 THE MARMIONS. 
 
 thofe of the Marmtons. To conclude, on a grave ftone 
 in the chancel was the following infcription, cut in brafs : 
 
 " Dum vixit Re£tor de Hanfield, nomine Thomas Sutton, et jacet hie, gradua- 
 " tus et ille magifter Artibus, ac etiam Canonicus hicque Weft Chefter, fic 
 " Norton Vi&or, vota fundite pro me." 
 
 Mr. Grofe gives a view of a noble fquare gateway oppo- 
 fite to the tower of Weft Tanfield church. It probably was 
 the approach to a houfe now deftroyed, belonging to one 
 of the great families above mentioned. The Marmions had 
 also one called the Hermitage, in the wood ; which, ac- 
 cording to Leland, was a house which Edward II. gave 
 licence to fohn de Marmion, to caftellate. This, ac- 
 cording to the old antiquary, flood on the ripe of the Ure, 
 about two miles and a half from HackfalL Not a veftige 
 at prefent is left : but he takes notice of the gateway at 
 Weft Tanfield. See his Itinerary, Vol. I. p. 94. 
 
 Backfall. After a tedious ride from hence through fields and in- 
 tricate by-lanes, I reached the little village of Gruel- 
 thorp, and viiited the celebrated Hack/all, one of the moll: 
 pi&urefque fcenes in the north of England : it confifts of 
 two vaft dingles, covered on each fide with wood, except 
 in fuch parts where the naked fears contribute to vary the 
 
 view. 
 
HACKFALL. 
 
 view. This romantic fpot is the property of Mr. Aijlabie, 
 which he retires to from his houfe at Studly, eleven miles 
 diftant. His buildings here are only paviliions, covered 
 feats, and other accommodations for a fhort repaft. It is 
 experimentally known that a long refidence, even in the 
 moft romantic fcenes, is apt to cloy : fo the owner wifely 
 has prevented all rifk of fatiety, by adapting his edifices to 
 a vifit only of a few hours. He has laid out the walks with 
 much judgment ; but the number of little cafcades that 
 continually drip along the fides of the hills, are rather 
 too artificial, where nature has been fo nobly bold. The 
 moft capital views are from the Fijhers Hut, which com- 
 mands the whole of the two dingles, where they fork from 
 each other, with the bottom of each quite filled by the 
 rapid lire, which in places runs finely foaming. This view 
 is truely American, for nothing is to be feen from it but 
 hanging woods, an extent of fear, air, and water. 
 
 The other profpeel: from the Mowbray ruin commands 
 the fame bofky dells, and the water ; but overlooks a vail 
 extent of plain, enriched with corn, meadows, and groves 
 — a tracl: of unequalled beauty and fertility. It is a ge- 
 nuine refemblance of one of the fine fcenes of Claude Lor- 
 rain, drawn from an eminence overlooking a foft and deli- 
 cate faifage. 
 
 At 
 
5° 
 
 NORTON CONIERS. 
 
 At my requeft the gardener conducted me up a hill be- 
 yond the limits of his charge, to fee a camp called Mow- 
 bray's Camp, and Cafile-Hill. I found it to be Roman, 
 fquare, defended, on one fide, by the fteep of the hill ; 
 on the other, by a dike, and deep ditch on the outfide. 
 The ruins of the Pratorium fhew themfelves in a heap of 
 Hones. There is a veftige of a fquare building on the out- 
 ride, near the ealt end, and various marks of inclofure ap- 
 pear in different parts of the common. 
 
 The views from this hill are contrafted : one takes in a 
 rich and pleating tract ; the other a feries of barren moors, 
 rendered frill blacker by frequent collieries. 
 
 I returned partly the fame way I took from Tanfield : but 
 on arriving on the plain, I crolTed certain meadows, forded 
 the Ure, and did myfelf the pleafure of waiting on Sir Bel- 
 Uhgham Graham, at his feat or Norton-Coniers. 
 
 7'his had been the property of the venerable Richard 
 Norton, who, with three fons, engaged in t 569 in the re- 
 ligious rebellion of the Earls of Northumberland and Wefl- 
 moreland, againft Queen Elizabeth. To infpire their fol- 
 lowers with fit enthuiiafm, they put into the hands of 
 Norton a flag; painted with the five wounds of our Saviour. 
 
 It 
 
 Nor to n- 
 Coniers. 
 
 » 
 
NORTON CONIERS. 57 
 
 It feems to have been a fecond Pilgrimage of Grace, like 
 the infurre&ion under AJke. This was foon fuppreffed. 
 Mr. Norton, and his Ions, were executed, among multi- 
 tudes of others, and his eftate granted to a Muf grave ; 
 who difpofed of it to an anceftor of the prefent owner. 
 From one of the younger Nor tons, Sir Fletcher is faid to 
 derive his defcent. 
 
 The great hall, and fome other parts of the ancient houfe, 
 ftill remain in ufe : the reft is modernifed, or new. The 
 portraits are numerous, and feveral of diftinguifhed perfo- 
 nages. I fhall firft take notice of the founder of the fa- 
 mily, Sir Rtchard Graham ; a borderer of the Eaft S JR Richard 
 
 Graham. 
 
 Marches, near the banks of the EJk, but a cadet of an 
 ancient houfe. His firft education was in the ftable * of 
 the favourite Duke of Buckingham : he was promoted to 
 be mafter of the horfe under that great peer; and, it is 
 recorded, that he kept the ftud in grounds adjacent to 
 Norton. When Charles I. then Prince of Wales, took his 
 romantic journey to vifit the Infanta, Sir Richard was one 
 of his llender train. On their arrival on the confines of 
 Spain, they found themfelves one day in aclual diftrefs for 
 provifions. Luckily a flock of tame goats appeared : 
 
 *• Wilfons Life of James I. 225. 
 I 
 
 Graham, 
 
58 NORTON CONIERS. 
 
 Graham^ probably accuftomed in his younger days vivere 
 
 ex raptOy took his piftols and mot a kid, to the great di- 
 
 verfion of the Prince, who rallied him heartily on the 
 
 force of habit. His talents caufed him to have frequent 
 
 employ, and his expedition was admirable. When he was 
 His vast Ac- l j 1 
 
 tivity. fent as a courier to Spain, he returned with fome momen- 
 tous difpatches, before he was fuppofed to have arrived at 
 the place of his deftination : in memory of the deed, a 
 pair of wings was added to his creft. He feemed, by his 
 portrait, to be formed for fpeed ; being tall, thin, and 
 well-made. He is drefTed in a red and filver SpaniJJo 
 drefs ; in brown boots, flat ruf7, with fine topt gloves, 
 Sir George and great fpurs. His fon, Sir George Graham, of Ne- 
 
 Graham. niii* i r t i • i*r • 
 
 therby, a boy, lianas by him. He clofed his life in a 
 faithful attachment to his matter ; fought valiantly in his 
 caufe at Marflon ; and, retiring from the field covered 
 with wounds, juft reached his own houfe and expired. 
 
 Sir Richard Sir Richard, fecond fon of the former, to whom this 
 eftate was left, a graceful youth of twenty-two, drefTed in 
 brown, with brown boots : behind is a fervant holding his 
 horfe. He lived to 1711, aged ninety. He had been 
 very active in his younger days in fupprefling the neigh- 
 bouring banditti, and had once his horfe wounded by a 
 fhot from a gang of ruffians, as he was pafling over Hut- 
 ton- 
 
NORTON CONIERS. 59 
 
 ton-Moor, in revenge for his having brought fome of their 
 companions to juftice ; but he got home fafe, and foon 
 after extirpated the remaining ruffians. 
 
 A head of the Duke of Buckingham^ patron of the firft 
 Sir Richard Graham* 
 
 His elder brother, Sir John Villiers, Vifcount Purbech, Viscount 
 
 • 1 PuRBECK. 
 
 in black ; van: breeches, very long, beiet with points round 
 the bottom, with red ftockings. This lingular perfonage 
 fat in Richard\ convention-parliament, and was fo violent 
 againft the royal caufe, as to hate his own name, becaufe 
 his family were active on the fide of the unfortunate Charles ; 
 he therefore changed it to Danvers* On the Reftoration, 
 he was arretted by order of the Houfe of Lords, on a charge 
 of high-treafon ; but he denied their jurifdiction, alledg- 
 ing that he was a commoner. The affair ended by his re- 
 fignation (on his own petition), of his peerage, of which 
 he feemed to be, in every refpecl, unworthy *. 
 
 Bafil de Hapfiurgh, Earl of Denbigh, in long hair, and Basil, Earl 
 
 • t 1 ■ r tt r • • i t 0F DENBIGH. 
 
 a rich drels. He was a Ipinted officer, under the Parlia- 
 ment, in the civil wars ; while his father took as active a 
 
 * Drake's Parliamentary Hiftory, xxii. 361, 383. 
 
 1 2 part 
 
6o 
 
 NORTON CONIERS. 
 
 part in the caufe of royalty, in which he loft his life. — 
 So much do civil commotions diffolve the ties of nature, 
 and all the deareft relations of life. 
 
 Mr. William Herbert \ a fine head, long hair, in a dark 
 gown, with the neck open. 
 
 A full length of Sir John Gage y Knight, of Longftow> 
 Cambridge/hire ; in black ; fhort hair, iingle flat laced 
 ruff. 
 
 Lord How- j n the hall is a head of that infamous peer, Lord How- 
 ard, of Es- r 
 
 crick. ard, of Ef crick-, in a cravat, long wig, with a thin mean 
 countenance, expreflive of the timid foul that encouraged 
 the confpiracy ; yet, on the firft appearance of danger, 
 betrayed the life of his generous friend, the noble 
 RuJfeL 
 
 Musgrave, A lingular pidure fucceeds : a plain man, in a white 
 °cach. jacket, black fleeves and breeches, with a fpear in his 
 hand. This was Mr. Mufgrave, of Cum-cach *, who, 
 tradition fays, was hanged, on fufpicion of killing Lord 
 William Howard's, of Naworth-Caftle, cat, and forfeited 
 
 * Whofe daughter Catherine was wife to Sir Richard Graham. 
 
 his 
 
/ 
 
 NORTON CONIERS. 
 
 61 
 
 his eftate. The truth may be, the eftate was convenient 
 to his lordfhip, and poor Mr. Mufgrave\ crime of no very 
 deep dye; as it is well known that Lord William, Warden 
 of the Eaft Marches in the time of Elizabeth , was a moft 
 fummary performer of juftice. 
 
 An Earl of Rutland, in a green coat. 
 
 Sir William Waljh, Knt. in white, with a great ruff, and SirWilliam 
 
 Walsh. 
 
 gold-chain; a head : 1583, aet. 25. 
 
 His Lady, in white, worked with black ; quilled ruff, 
 a rich gold chain, her cap very elegant, adorned with a 
 round plate, big as a milling, hanging on one fide of her 
 head. 
 
 Edward, third Lord Herbert, of Cher bury, in armour, Edward, 3D 
 with a long wig : diftinguiflied in 1659, by rifing in Shrop- ber^, of 
 /hire, to promote the attempt of Sir George Booth, to- 
 wards the reftoration of Charles II. He fuffered impri- 
 fonment on the mifcarriage, was fpeedily releafed, and died 
 in 1678. 
 
 Sir Richard Graham left in the houfe feveral portraits 
 
 of 
 
 Cherbur y. 
 
62 
 
 NORTON CONIERS. 
 
 of illuftrious foreigners, which he purchafed in one of his 
 Spanijh journies. 
 
 Charles V. Charles V. and his ambitious fon Philip II. appear in 
 one piece: in his countenance are wholly omitted the ex- 
 preflions that might defcribe the great events of his bufy 
 life. I would paint Charles the moment after his resigna- 
 tion of the empire of the world to his ungrateful fon; 
 when eafe and fatisfa&ion mould appear in his face on 
 quitting the mighty burthen. I would exprefs the figh he 
 uttered, and the reflection that he made, in his retirement 
 (when in vain attempting to bring a number of clocks to 
 ftrike at the fame inftant). He owned his own folly, that, 
 in fulnefs of power, he fhould think of introducing an 
 uniformity of opinion, in religious matters, among man- 
 kind, and could not fucceed even in adjufting the move- 
 ments of a few pieces of mechanifm. I would paint him 
 in the laft fcene of his life, celebrating his own funeral, 
 when his imagination feemed to have carried him paft the 
 grave; and full of the beatific vilion, exulting in that 
 happinefs, of which plenary repentance gave him every 
 reafonable hope. 
 
 Philip II No pencil could paint the dark foul of Philips which 
 was too unfeeling to fhew itfelf in his countenance. He 
 
 pur- 
 
NORTON CONIERS 
 
 63 
 
 purfued his defigns with unrelenting obftinacy: good or 
 ill fuccefs never produced the leaft change in his fea- 
 tures. 
 
 His fon, the unfortunate Don Carlos^ is placed near His son Don 
 him, in a white clofe habit, a ruff, and a long chain : a 
 fon worthy of the father, undtftiful, obftinate, plotting. 
 Confinement foon followed detection, and death the fpeedy 
 confequence. The manner of his end, like that of Alex-~ 
 iwitz, fon of Peter the Great, is obfcure ; whether the 
 effect of fullen grief, or by the hand of the executioner, 
 remains a matter undecided in hiftory. 
 
 Here are three other diftinguiflied perfons of that pe- 
 riod, in the fame habit, that of the order of the golden 
 fleece, a red cap, and a gown. Of them, the firffc is the 
 
 famous Don John of Auftria, natural fon of Charles V, DoN J OHN 0F 
 
 Austria. 
 
 immortalized by his victory over the Turkijh fleet at Le- 
 panto. His arms were afterwards turned againft the re- 
 volted Netherlands, where, after fome fucceffes, fortune 
 frowned on him ; and he died in the camp, near Namur y 
 either of grief, poifon, or the plague. 
 
 Matthias, Archduke of Aujlria, is the next, governor Matthias, 
 
 ,A RCHDUK E 
 
 of the Low Countries in the time of Philip II.y where his of Austria. 
 
 equity 
 
6 4 
 
 RIPON. 
 
 equity and moderation gained him the affection of his 
 long oppreffed fubjects, under the Duke of Alva, and 
 Don Lewis de Requefen\ — whofe portraits conclude, this 
 lift. 
 
 Wath- This houfe is in the parifh of Wath. or Warth. one of 
 Church. r 
 
 the eftates of the Marmions. In the church are two en- 
 graven figures of the IVortons, on brafs, both Richards > 
 one died in 1433, the other in 14**. Here is alfo a mo- 
 nument of an armed knight kneeling, with his lady by 
 him ; his children beneath : and an imperfect infcription 
 in memory of the lady of the flrft Sir Richard Graham^ 
 1649 *. 
 
 Ripon. From Norton I vifited Ripon, a good and well-built 
 town, between three and four miles to the fouth, feated 
 between the Ure and the little river Skell. It lies on a 
 fmall hill, with a fall on all Udes : has a handfome fquare, 
 with a lofty obelifk in the centre. Is at prefent deftitute 
 of trade, but formerly pofleffed a confiderable woollen 
 manufacture ; which, about the latter end of the fifteenth 
 century, was transferred to Halifax^ by Mr. Waterhgufe^ 
 a native of this town. It was, belides, once noted for 
 
 * Cent's Hift. Ripon, Suppl. 42, 
 
 the 
 
RIPON. 
 
 65 
 
 the excellency of its fpurs ; "As true ft eel as Ripon 
 rowels, being an old proverb, but that trade has likewife 
 ceafed. 
 
 This place was called by the Saxons, Hrippun, It 
 owes its rife to the piety of very early times ; for, in the 
 feventh century, Eata, Abbot of Metros, in Scotland, 
 founded here a monaftery*; for which purpofe Alchfrid, Monastery, 
 King of the Northumbrians, made him a prefent of the 
 ground. But Eata being called away before the building 
 was completed, fortunately for the place, that eminent 
 architect, St. Wilfrid, was appointed Abbot in his /lead, 
 before the year 661. He built it new from the ground, 
 with fine hewen ftone, and adorned it with variety of 
 columns and porticos; and, as foon as it was finifhed, 
 gave it a folemn confecration, in prefence of King Eg/rid, 
 and of all the great people of the realm f. He died in the 
 monaftery of Oundle, near Stamford, and was interred 
 here with great funeral pomp. King Athelftan endowed 
 the houfe with great privileges, and made it a fanctuary 
 from all crimes for the fpace of a mile round. His char- 
 ter for that purpofe, in old Englijh, is very curious : — 
 
 * Bede Vit. CudberEIi, c. vii. viii. 
 
 f Vita Wilfridi in Gale, iii. 59, 60. 
 
 k Wyt 
 
RIPON. 
 
 Wyt all that es and es gan 
 
 Yat ik King Adeljlan 
 
 As gyven als frelith as i may 
 
 And to ye capitell of feint Wilfrai 
 
 Of my free devotion 
 
 Yair pees at Rippon 
 
 On ilke fide ye kyrke a mile 
 
 For all ill deedes and ylke agyle 
 
 And within yair kirke yate 
 
 At ye ftan yat Grithftole hate. 
 
 Within ye kirke dore and ye quare 
 
 Yair have pees for les and mare. 
 
 Ilkan of yis ftedes fal have pees 
 
 Of frodmortell and il deedes 
 
 Yat yair don is, Tol, 'Tern, 
 
 With iren and with water deme 
 
 And yat ye land of feint Wilfrai 
 
 Of alkyn geld fre fal be ay. 
 
 At na nan at langes me to 
 
 in yair Herpfac * fal have at do 
 
 And for ik will at yai be fave 
 
 I will at yai alkyn freedome have: 
 
 And in all thinges be als free 
 
 As hert may thynke or eygh may fe 
 
 At te power of a kinge 
 
 Malls make free any thynge. 
 
 And my feale hav i fatt yerto 
 
 For I will at na man it undo. 
 
 * For Frithfoke, i. e. immunitatis locus, 
 
RIPON. 
 
 67 
 
 The monaftery flourimed near two hundred years from 
 the death of Wilfrid ; till King Edred, enraged at the 
 rebellion of the Northumbrian Danes , carried fire and 
 fword throughout the north; and in 950, in his wrath, 
 
 Destroyed. 
 
 forgetting the fanctity of the place, included it in the 
 general devaftation. This monaftery ftood in a bottom, 
 diftant from the new minfter, in a place where there was 
 a chapel of Our Lady*. It never rofe after this calamity: 
 but the prefent collegiate church fprung from its aflies, 
 
 vO L LEG I AT E 
 
 founded by Aldred, Arehbiftiop of Vork, at the time of Church 
 
 BUILT. 
 
 the Conqueft. Tanner informs us, that the church had 
 been built before, by OJwald and others, predeceffors to 
 Aldred. The firft, admonimed by a virion f, had difco- 
 vered, among the ruins of the old monaftery, the bodies 
 of St. Wilfrid and (bme other abbots. The firft he placed 
 in a rich fhrine, and tranllated to Worcefler. I do not 
 learn, by the writer of his life, that he had any concern in 
 the building of the church. There are not to be found, 
 in the prefent church, any traces of the early architecture, 
 excepting in a crypt, hereafter to be defcribed. Two fpe- 
 cies of Gothic ftyle remain : the front, and the great tower, 
 feem to have been built in the reign of Henry III. or 
 Edward I. when the feries of narrow pointed windows, 
 
 * Inland's Itin. i. 91. f Wharton's Angl. Sacr. ii. 205, 206. 
 
 K 2 
 
 placed 
 
68 
 
 RIPON. 
 
 placed one above the other, began to prevail. The body 
 of the church is evidently of a far later date: for after the 
 town and that part of the minfter were deftroyed by the 
 ScotSy in a barbarous invafion in 1318, the body was re- 
 built by means of the treafureof the church, and the con- 
 tributions of the neighbouring gentry *. It is both elegant 
 and light j the arches pointed, the. columns adorned with 
 four round pillars, and fluting between each: in the win- 
 dows, the arms of a benefactor or prebend. 
 
 The choir is feparated from the body by a fkreen of ftone 
 of elegant workmanfhip. It is neatly fitted with (tails ; 
 of which eight are allotted for the dean, fub-dean, and fix 
 prebends. At the difTolution, the crown aiTumed all the 
 revenues. The church lay neglected till the reign of 
 yames I. who, at the inftance of his Queen, Anne of 
 Denmark^ eftablifhed here a dean and feven prebends, and 
 endowed the college with two hundred and forty-feven 
 pounds a year. 
 
 Chapter- The chapter- houfe is a long room, fupported by two 
 
 House. ...... . . . - r 
 
 pillars. Beneath is a vault, containing a quantity or 
 
 coarfe wooden fculpture, belonging to the old church. 
 
 * Leland's Itin. i. 92. 
 
 The 
 
RIPON. 
 
 69 
 
 The ancient crypt is in the body of the church, to be Crypt. 
 defcended into by a flight of federal fteps. After going 
 through a narrow paffage, I reached a fmall room, arched 
 at top ; in which is a holy water-pot, a nich for an image, 
 and the place for an altar. Another narrow paffage half 
 furrounds this chapel : at the end is a ftaircafe, now made 
 up, which led to the choir. Through the wall into the 
 chapel, is a narrow hole, which is called St. TVilfrid\ 
 needle. It was pretended that this was the teft of chaftity; 
 and that none, except vejlals, could pafs through, even 
 were they as meagre as Swift 's Daphne. 
 
 The moft remarkable tombs are thele : Mofes Fowler , Tombs. 
 fir ft dean of Ripon y after it was refounded by James I. 
 He lies reclined, in a gown and ruff. . 
 
 A buft of Hugh Ripley, thrice mayor, and the laft 
 wakeman of this town: he died in 1637, and with him 
 that ancient office, which was of Saxon origin. In old 
 times he wore a horn, in token of his duty. He was to Office of 
 caufe it to be blown every night, at nine o'clock ; if after Wakeman - 
 that any lofs was fuftained by any inhabitant, the damage 
 was to be fuftained by the community; and for this infu- 
 rance every houfeholder was to pay four-pence annually : 
 but, if he had a back-door by which thieves might alfo 
 
 enter, 
 
RIPON. 
 
 enter, he was to pay double, as the public ran the greater 
 rifque *. 
 
 Sir Thomas Norton^ and his wife, both colofial, recum- 
 bent on an altar- tomb ; he armed. 
 
 Sir William Burton y and his lady, refembling the for- 
 mer. 
 
 Sir Edward Blacket, reclining, in a vaft perriwig: his 
 two ladies, in plaifter, ftand mourning over him. He 
 died in 171 8. 
 
 A long infcription to the honourable 'John Atjlabie^ of 
 very little importance. 
 
 A mural monument to Sir John Mallory, an eminent 
 royalift, who furprifed and put to the fword a number of 
 the parliament- forces, who had juft been defacing the an- 
 cient tombs of this church. He died in 1655, and his 
 remains were depofited in this church, with the following 
 infcription :— 
 
 * Gent's Ripon, 101. 
 
 * Here 
 
R1P0N. 
 
 " Here lies Sir John Mallory, of Great Studley, alias Studley Royal, in the 
 county of Tork, Knt. a loyal fubjetr to his prince; who married Mary, one of 
 the daughters and co-heires of John Mofeley, of the city of Tork, Efq.; and, 
 upon the 23d day of January, 1655, and in the forty--fifth year of his age, 
 departed this life. He had feven children, fix daughters and one fon, WiU 
 Ham Mallory, who died the 9th of February, 1666, and in the twentieth year 
 of his age, and was buried near this monument ; which the Lady Mallory, 
 in the year 1678, in memory of her hufband, caufed to be ere£ted." 
 
 Leland mentions fome other ecclefiaftical antiquities in 
 this town; fuch as certain very ancient croiTes, the walls 
 of Our Lady's chapel, and the pyramids, or fpires, on 
 the central and two firft towers, none of which exift at 
 prefent. 
 
 I faw, in my walk round the town, two vaft artificial Mounts. 
 mounts; the work either of the Saxons or Danes. In one 
 are daily found numbers of human bones, it being the 
 common burial-place at the time of the plague, which 
 raged here in 1666. 
 
 I muft not omit that, till the diflblution, here were Hospitals. 
 three hofpitals. The moft lingular was that of St. Mag- 
 dalene , founded by Thurftan *, who died archbifhop of 
 Torky in 11 39. The firft institution was for a chaplain 
 
 * Tanner^ 656. 
 
 and 
 
7 2 RIPON. 
 
 and religious lifters, who were to keep a chaplain to per- 
 form divine fervice ; and to give to all lepers, born in 
 Ripp07iJJjire > a garment, called rak> and two pair of fhoes, 
 yearly; and daily a loaf, half a pitcher of beer, a portion 
 of flefh on flefb days, and three herrings on maigre days. 
 At length the lifters were changed into brothers ; and, as 
 lepers ceafed coming, a dole was given to the poor, on the 
 day of St. Mary Magdalene* 
 
 There are a few more particulars to be mentioned of this 
 Charters, place : fuch as the charter of Henry I. granting it a fair 
 of four days ; another of Stephen *, confirming all its 
 privileges, eccleliaftical and civil ; and a third of Henry V. 
 giving a piece of ground to the church, for the building 
 of fix houfes for the vicars, that they might live together f. 
 I muft mention that it only fent members the 23d of 
 Edward I. .and ill: of Edward II. and then ceafed till 
 the laft parliament of Edward VI. or firft of Mary, when 
 the privilege was reftored. The town was incorporated 
 in 1604, under government of a mayor, recorder, twelve 
 aldermen, and twenty-four afftftants 
 
 * Drake's Hift. York. App. xcii. 
 f Steven's Mon. Dugd. 353. 
 % Willis's Notiiia Pari. iii. 67. 
 
 I may 
 
STUDLEY-PARK. 
 
 I may conclude, that here was carried on the treaty in 
 1640, between Charles I, and his Scotch fubjedts ; who, 
 fearing the power of the Earl of Strafford, at York, in 
 this place wafted fome time, in what each party determined 
 to difagree about. 
 
 Two miles farther is Studley-Parh The firft of the name 
 of Aijlabie who poffefTed this place, was George AiJJabie, of 
 the ecciefiaftical- court at York, principal regiftrar, who 
 died in 1674. He married Mary, eldeft daughter of Sir 
 fohn Mallery, before mentioned; and, by the death of 
 Sir Johns fon under age, became mailer of his fortune. 
 His fon, John Aijlabie, mayor of Ripon'm 1702, became 
 chancellor of the exchequer in 171 8 — 1720. In the year 
 1721, for his iniquitous concern in the South Sea fcheme, 
 he was fubje&ed to large forfeitures, by act of parliament, 
 and expelled the houfe. However, he emerged with 
 a noble fortune, after all his loffes ; being allowed all the 
 eftates he pofTerTed before the year 171 8, and allowed his 
 country-houfe, goods, jewels, &c. ; all the reft ena&ed to 
 be forfeited. He died in 1742, aged feventy-one. His 
 fon died in 1781. 
 
 No iflue male furvives of his two daughters. The el- 
 deft, widow of Charles Allanfon, of Bramham-Biggen> Efq. 
 
 l is 
 
STUDLEY-PARK. 
 
 is the prefent poflelTor. On her death, it defcends to 
 the other filter, wife of William Laurence^ Efq. who 
 has only a daughter, who will inherit; then, in failure of 
 ifTue to the Wallers^ and to the prefent Lord Grantham x 
 by entail. 
 
 The houfe, I imagine, has nothing in it to attract the 
 attention of Grangers ; but the park and improvements are 
 extremely deferving of a vifit. They confilt of above a 
 thoufand acres, finely broken into variety of inequalities, 
 and clothed with large timber of different kinds. The 
 views are great : Ripon and its minder form capital obje&s. 
 The walks, in the dreffed part, were laid out in the fea- 
 fon when the ftiff magnificence of Dutch gardening pre- 
 vailed : yet, I am told, they were not begun till the year 
 1720, and under the direction of yohn Aijlabie^ Efq. 
 We may be content that Naffau gave us liberty; and not 
 repine that he was not the introducer of tafte. The place 
 is full of lofty hedges, nicely trimmed : ftrait lines polTefs 
 every part. The waters are numerous, and kept tame 
 within nice borders, bounded by angular inclofures. The 
 itreams, too, that mult neceiTarily efcape, drop precifely 
 down very artificial cafcades. Still there is an admirable 
 greatnefs, even in this faulty ftyle of improvement. That 
 was the defect of the time ; and very venial : I wifii I 
 
 could 
 
 V 
 
FOUNTAIN'S- ABBEY. 
 
 75 
 
 could as well excufe Lot's wife, now frefhened into the 
 flump of a tree ; and a green man, from the leaden exhi- 
 bition near Hyde-Park corner, terrifying the vifitor, in the 
 action of fhooting him, at his firft entrance into thefe 
 furprifing fcenes. 
 
 The whole is adorned with pavilions and buildings, that 
 do credit to the architect ; and are difperfed, with no fmall 
 profufion, over each eminence and bottom. From one of 
 the heights, I was fuddenly furprifed with the awful re- 
 mains of Fountain 's- Abbey * : that filled from fide to fide Fou-ntainV 
 the midway of a long and narrow little vale, watered by 
 the Skell ; bounded on each part by high hills, fhaded 
 with trees, and varied with fears. The vale is continued 
 for fome fpace beyond the monaftery, and terminated with 
 a wooded eminence. 
 
 Time has had lefs effect than ufual on thefe venerable 
 reliques. The late owner preferved them, through refpect 
 to the ancient religion of the place: the prefent is fenlible 
 that they are the brighter!: ornament to Studley-Parh 
 
 In 1 1 3 2, certain monks, of the Benedi&ine order, at 
 
 * Buck, ii. 326. Gro/Ss Torkjhire, two views and a plan. 
 
 L 2 St, 
 
 How 
 
 FOUNDED. 
 
FOUNTAIN'S- ABBEY. 
 
 St. Marysy in York, fcandalized with the relaxation of 
 difcipline in their convent, and fatiated with the luxury 
 of their life, determined to migrate where the monaftic 
 manners were practifed with the feverity of primitive times. 
 They had heard much of the fame of the aufterities of 
 their brethren, of the Ctflertum order, at Rzevau/x, in 
 Cleveland^ a colony fent into England, in 1 128, by St. 
 Bernard, Abbot of Clairvaux, in Champagne. 
 
 They determined to embrace the rules of this fociety ; 
 and, for that purpofe, applied to Thurjlan, Archbifhop of 
 York, not only to favour their defign, but to viiit their 
 abbey, and endeavour to reftore the loft difcipline. Thur- 
 ftan, attended by a large train of refpeclable clergy, went, 
 on a day appointed, to St. Marys; where he found the 
 Abbot, with the like attendance, ready to oppofe the re- 
 folutions of the Archbifhop, and to punifh the preemp- 
 tion of the difcontented brethren, who had the infolence 
 to think of leaving his houfe. 
 
 The Abbot refufed the Archbifhop entrance into the 
 chapter-houfe ; a riot enfued; and the prelate, after inter- 
 dicting the abbot and the monks, retired, and took under 
 his protection the prior, fub-prior, and eleven religious, 
 who withdrew from the abbey, and were joined by a monk 
 1 from 
 
FOUNTAIN'S- ABBEY. 
 
 from JVhitby\ all of whom were entertained by the Arch- 
 bifhop at his palace for eleven weeks and five days, where 
 they fpent their time, for the moll part, in failing and 
 prayer. 
 
 During that fpace the Abbot was incelTant in his com- 
 plaints to the King, the Bifhops, Abbots, and neigh- 
 bouring monafleries, againft the Archbifhop, for thus de- 
 priving him of part of his flock ; and exerted every argu- 
 ment with the holy deferters to return to their ancient ha- 
 bitation. Two only were prevailed on : one of whom, 
 quickly repenting of his irrefolution, rejoined his com- 
 panions. The other, captivated w T ith the BenediStine lux- 
 ury, entered, as my hillorian relates, into a league with 
 the rlelh, continued in his convent, and grew enormoufly 
 fat *. 
 
 At Chriftmas they followed the Archbifhop to Ripon\ 
 who, probably confulting the aullere turn of the pious 
 fugitives, allotted them, as a fpecial favour, this place, 
 then called Skell-Dale> for their relidence : being the moil: 
 favage in the whole neighbourhood, the habitation of wild 
 
 * Dugdales Mon. i. 739, to whom I am indebted for many materials re- 
 fpe&ing this abbey. 
 
 beafls, 
 
FOUNTAIN'S- ABBEY. 
 
 hearts, and overgrown with wood and brambles. He alfo 
 gave them an adjacent village, called Sutton. The monks 
 elected for their abbot Richard, their late prior, and im- 
 mediately withdrew to their defert, destitute of every ne- 
 cefTary, and entirely dependent on Providence for their 
 fupport ; excepting during the fmall fpace that the Arch- 
 bifhop fupplied them with bread, and the river Skell was 
 their beverage. 
 
 During the remainder of the winter, they had no other 
 fhelter than what a great elm-tree afforded. They made 
 a thatch of ftraw, and prayed, eat, and lodged, under its 
 protection. 
 
 At the expiration of the fevere feafon, they difpatched 
 a meffenger to St. Bernard, to acquaint him with their 
 refolution of becoming of his order. He approved of their 
 intention; wrote to Thurjlan to confirm his good defigns 
 towards them ; and to their late abbot, to vindicate their 
 retreat. He alfo caufed one of his monks, Geoffrey, to 
 return with the meffenger, in order to inftruct them in the 
 rules of his order, and to direct them to build cottages 
 and other conveniencies. Numbers reforted from other 
 quarters, attracted by the fame of the fanctity of the new 
 inhabitants of the place. 
 
 Thefe 
 
FOUNTAINS-ABBEY, 
 
 Thefe additions ferved but to heighten their diftrefs ; 
 for their poverty was as great as ever. The abbot himfelf 
 was reduced to beg in vain round the country j and, as the 
 year proved a year of famine, he and hi^ companions were 
 under the neceflity of living on the leaves of trees > and 
 the herbs of the field, boiled with fait ; for even the 
 Archbifhop could fupply them but very fparingly. 
 
 Their benevolence was of uncommon magnitude ; but 
 it met with its reward as unfought as unexpected. At a 
 time when their whole flock of provifions coniifted but of 
 two loaves and a half, a ftranger, almofl famifhed, im- 
 plored their charity. The abbot ordered one of the loaves 
 to be given, declaring that God would provide for them. 
 Immediately after, as if heaven directed, Euftace Fitzjohn^ 
 Lord of YLnarejborough, fent them a cart loaden with the 
 fineft bread, 
 
 Still they laboured, for two years, under variety of 
 hardships: they began to fink under them, and to enter- 
 tain thoughts of leaving the place, and retiring to their 
 patron at Clairvaux. But the period of their neceflity 
 was finimed by thefe events. Uug/j, a wealthy Dean of 
 York, falling fick, determined to end his days among thefe 
 pious men. He removed here with all his effects, and a 
 
 library 
 
FOUNTAIN'S- ABBEY. 
 
 library ot holy manufcripts, which he had collected at a 
 great expence ; and thus laid the foundation for the future 
 profperity of Fountains, Part of his riches was devoted 
 to alms, part to building, and the remainder to the ufes 
 or the houfe. 
 
 Good fortune now poured in upon them. Serlo and 
 Tojli, opulent canons of York, devoted themfelves, and all 
 they had, to the benefit of the convent. Robert de Sards, 
 a neighbouring knight, and Rachevilla, his wife, beftowed 
 on them the town of Harlefnows, and the fields belong- 
 ing to it, and the foreft of Warkefale ; and were both 
 buried here. Serlo de Pembroke, at the approach of death, 
 — as very frequent in days of fuperflition, — gave them the 
 expiatory gift of the village of Caiton\ and received here 
 the favour of interment. 
 
 By this time it feems as if the buildings were become 
 conilderable ; for, about the year 1140, when the civil 
 war raged in England, between Stephen and his competi- 
 tor, a party of foldiers, favourers of William, Archbi- 
 fhop or York, then depofed in favour of Henry Murdoc, 
 Abbot of Fountain s, came here and burnt the monaftery, 
 and half of the oratory. 
 
 I can- 
 
FOUNTAIN'S- ABBEY. 
 
 I cannot find any account of the progrefs that was made 
 in the building of the abbey. The church was begun by 
 the abbot, John de Eborac, in 1204, who laid the foun- 
 dation, and raifed fome of the pillars. John Pherd, his 
 fucceffor (afterwards Bifhop of Ely), made rapid advances 
 in carrying on the work ; and John of Kent, who fuc- 
 ceeded, is faid to have finimed this noble ftru&ure, and 
 erected nine altars. I fuppofe that the great tower was 
 built, or at leaft heightened, after the death- of this abbot, 
 which happened in 1245; f° r there is on it the date of 
 1283. 
 
 A profufion of wealth flowed in, and great numbers of 
 grants and privileges ; the numerous lift of which is pre- 
 ferved in Dr. Burton s Hiftory of the Abbeys of this 
 County. Extravagance, the frequent companion of riches, 
 proved, in a little time, the caufe of much anxiety to the 
 brethren of this houfe; for, in 1294, it appears they 
 were in great neceflity. John le Romaine, a cotemporary 
 Archbifhop of York, attributes it to their mifconduct ; and 
 fays, they were become the derifion of the whole king- 
 dom. 
 
 Soon afterwards their fufferings were increafed by the 
 depredations of the Scots, who carried fire and fword 
 
 m through 
 
FOUNTAIN'S- ABBEY. 
 
 through this part of the kingdom. Edward II. out of 
 regard to their lolTes, granted them, in 13 19, an exemp- 
 tion from all taxes. In aftertimes they emerged from their 
 misfortunes, and became extremely opulent. At the dif- 
 folution, according to Dr. Burton, their revenues amounted 
 to 1 1 25/. 18s. \\d. 
 
 The value of their plate amounted, at that period, to 
 708/. 5X. qld. 
 
 Mr. Burton, in p. 143, 145, 146, Monaflicon Ebora- 
 cenfe, gives a moft curious particular of this fpecies of 
 wealth, extremely worthy of perufal : — 
 
 They were pofTefTed of 2356 horned cattle; 1326 meep; 
 86 horfes; and 79 fwine: — 117 quarters of wheat; 12 
 of rye; 134 of oats; and 392 loads of hay. 
 
 In their granary 18 quarters of wheat; 18 of rye; 90 
 of barley and malt; and 2 of oats. 
 
 Such was its affluence at its latter end 1 when the irre- 
 gularities of a few of the religious houfes, the wealth of 
 moft, and the attachment of all to a foreign ecclefiaftical 
 jurifdidtion, involved the whole in a general ruin. 
 
 The 
 
FOUNTAIN'S-ABBEY. 
 
 The laft abbot of Fountain 's (except one), William 
 Thrujl^ or Thrijke^ fuffered at Tyburn^ in "January^ 1537. 
 We are not informed of his crime; but, as he was exe- 
 cuted with Sir John Bulmer y and others, concerned in the 
 religious commotions, it is probable he was a favourer of 
 their treafons, as many of the great abbots were. 
 
 Mr. Grofe has preferved two very curious letters, that 
 fling fome light on the character of this unfortunate prieft; 
 which, with the mutual indulgence that gentleman and I 
 have agreed to give each other, I mall take the liberty of 
 copying*. 
 
 " Myne entierly wel biloved and allured Frend. 
 " In right harty maner I fignifye unto you that is credable imformation 
 maid unto me upon the fute and behalf of the convent and bretherne of the 
 moneftary of Fount aince in the county of York that the abbot there doith not 
 endevoure himfelfe lyke a difcrete father towards the convent and the profet 
 of the hous but haith againft the fame as well folde and waftyd the great 
 parte or all theyre ftore in cataill as alfoo theyre woodis in dyverfe contreis 
 beying in like manner as I am informed in his owne converfation after fuch 
 forte as the quyet of the faid hous which flioulde depende anenft theyme is 
 moch tedews and uncharitable J whereby the fervice of Godd fhuld not be 
 maynteyned like to the ancient cuftome there J And for that mine anceftors and 
 I are benefa&ours to the faid moneftary | the information was more inforced 
 to be maid unto me at this my beying here to the intent uppon the promifes I 
 
 f Article Fountain's Abbey, Tab. II. 
 m 2 
 
 might 
 
FOUNTAIN'S- ABBEY. 
 
 might caufe advertifement to be maid unto my fingler good lord legate that 
 his grace wd ponder the premifles by his power and au&orite of comiflion to 
 fome difcrete fathers in that countrey of religious howfes | thereby to author- 
 ryfe theyme that if mater of depryvacion may be founde to have the fame in 
 execution with a free eleccion to be grauntyd by his grace to the faid convent 
 before the faid religious perfons commiffioners | And the faid convent havying 
 efpeciall refpeel: to the corooditie and profet that may infewe upon the fame 
 and the better mavnteinment of Goddis fervice [ And perceyvyng in the con- 
 trary theyre | great impoveryftiment would for the increafe agayn of the faid 
 hous j gyf towards the advancement of hys gracious lege, fyve hundreth 
 marks to have lyke comyfTion to be adreffyd into the contrey defyring you moft 
 hartely for that I cannot by reafon of my difeafes attend my lord myfelf ac- 
 cording to my bounden dutie j that ye wolde be meane unto his grace upon 
 the contents with effect which as I perceyve that be a right charitable acl: to 
 be executed accordingly | And thus hartely fare ye well [ at befids Elfing- 
 ton this xxvj day of June 
 
 <c Yours affuryd 
 
 « H. NORTHUMBERLAND." 
 
 " To my bedfellowe dtrendell." 
 
 Layton\ letter was addreffed to Lord Cromwell^ the 
 great inftrument of the King in fupprefling the abbeys 
 and humbling the clergy; whom, on account of their oath 
 to the Pope, he properly called his Majefty's half fub- 
 jeds. 
 
 " Pleafe your worfhip to underftand that the abbot of Founiayns hath fo 
 greatly dilapidate his houfe, waited ye woods, notorioufly keeping fix whores, 
 and fix days before our coming he committed theft and facrilege, confeffing 
 the fame ; for at midnight he caufed his chapleyn to ftele the keys of the fex- 
 
 ten 
 
FOUNTAIN'S- ABBEY. 
 
 ten and took out a jewel, a crofs of gold with ftones, one Warren a goldfmyth 
 of the Chepe was with him in his chambre at the hour, and there they ftole out 
 a great emerode with a rubye, the fayde Warren made the abbot believe the 
 rubye was a garnet and fo for that, he paid nothing, for the emerode but 
 twenty pounds. He fold him alfo plate without weight or ounces. Sub- 
 fcribed your poor prieft and faithfull fervant 
 
 " R. LAYfON."- 
 
 " From Rkhmont (in com. Ebor) the 20th Jan. 1 * 
 
 I think that the third article of Laytons charge muft 
 be confidered as exaggerated, and delivered with the zeal 
 of a violent vnitor. The reft fhews the apprehenlions the 
 religious had of their approaching diftblution ; and that 
 the convents (like thofe at prefent in a neighbouring king- 
 dom, perhaps under like fears), were difponng of their 
 effedts, to prevent them from falling into profane hands. 
 
 I have nrft given the letter of Henry, Earl of Northum- 
 berland, on which I remark, that the information feat by 
 that Lord fuited the difintereftednefs of his character; for it 
 does not appear that he reaped the leaft advantage from the 
 ruin of this houfe. He, who could beftow on the King 
 and others the forfeited eftates of his brother, Sir Thomas 
 Percy*, which he had power to retain, was not likely to 
 profit by the misfortunes of a few monks. 
 
 Vincent's difcoverie, &c. 383. 
 
 The 
 
FOUNTAIN'S- ABBEY. 
 
 The fucceflbr of the poor abbot was Marmaduhe Brad- 
 ley, fuffragan Bifhop of Hull, who complied with the 
 meafures of the court, and furrendered his convent on 
 November 26, 1540. He had a penfion of 100/. a year 
 afligned to him: his monks had alfo, annually, allowances 
 from SI. to 5/. each. 
 
 On approaching the abbey, the view becomes the more 
 awful ; when the greatnefs of the whole is apparent, as well 
 as the elegance of the parts. Oppofed to us, on this 
 quarter, is the eaft end of the venerable church ; the great 
 window, the double row of narrow windows on the fides, 
 the vaft buttrefles, and the rich perfpe£Hve of the great 
 columns that grace the far-extended body. The lofty 
 tower, placed Angularly on the end of the north tranfept, 
 is another fine objecl: : it is a building of great ftrength ; 
 the angles formed of a feries of buttrefles, elegantly lelTen- 
 ing as they approach the top. It wants the nice decoration 
 of the florid Gothic : a few ftatues once filled the niches 
 difperfed over the buttrefles. The height is 156 feet: 
 the date 1283. 
 
 The length of the whole church is nearly 120 yards; 
 that of the tranfept 1 2 7 feet ; the breadth of the nave 
 about twenty-eight feet; of the fide-aifles a little more 
 
 than 
 
FOUNT AIN'S-ABBEY. 
 
 than twelve ; the diameter of the columns five feet fix inches. 
 They have a magnificent ftrength, are plain, and round; 
 but, on the fide next to the aides, have a lingular addi- 
 tion of two fmall pillars, that end in a capital ffiort of 
 the height of the columns they adhere to. 
 
 The mixture of architecture is very uncommon : in fome 
 parts are feen the narrow fharp- pointed windows ; in 
 others, the round arches prevail. The great earl; window 
 is an exception to both, being of a noble breadth, and the 
 arch much pointed. 
 
 This great pile, like many others of that period, was 
 defigned with a grandeur, that required a longer fpace for 
 its completion than the life of the original architect. New 
 modes of execution arofe, and the firft plan was deviated 
 from; which occafioned the variety of windows, arches, 
 and columns, that we often fee in the fame building* The 
 moft ancient date I could difcover here, was 1202. 
 
 There had been, I believe, a central tower, long fince 
 deftroyed. 
 
 The two Iriafts, of vaft columns, are ftill to be 
 feen at the end of the choir. They had once been fur- 
 
 3 rounded 
 
FQUNTAIN'S-ABBEY. 
 
 rounded by flender pillars of marble, as appear by the 
 fragments. 
 
 There is not a fingle tomb in all the church, except a 
 mutilated one, of a crofs-legged knight, partly covered 
 with a mantle. This was in memory of Roger de Mou- 
 Ira}', a great baron in the reign of Edward /. He died 
 at Ghent, and was interred in 1297 *. 
 vroonrv Jfiw otlr .ikvsiq zzdoiz Lnr/oi cdi t 3uriio 
 
 From the body of the church I palled into a fpacious 
 fquare court, now fpruced into a flower-garden. On one 
 fide extend the ftone feats of the monaftic inhabitants ; on 
 another is an arcade of five round arches ; beneath one 
 of which is the entrance into the chapter-houfe, a rec- 
 tangular room, once fupported by two rows of pillars. 
 
 South of the court is the refectory, a long room, 105 
 feet by 46. It appears formerly to have been fupported. 
 by four pillars: on one fide is the reading-gallery, for a 
 portion of fcripture was always read to the monks during 
 meals. Beneath this is a very neat confole, in form of. an 
 expanded flower. 
 
 * Dugdale's Rami, i. 126. 
 
 The 
 
FOUNTAIN'S-ABBEY. 
 
 The kitchen and fcullery are on one fide; on the other 
 a fmall fquare room, with a vault for liquors. The firft 
 feems to have been a fort of apartment for perfons in 
 waiting;. 
 
 Eaft of the kitchen are fome ruins, which Dr. Burton 
 fuppofes to have had once over them a fet of lodging- 
 rooms. 
 
 But the moft ftnking of all the buildings is the cloifter. 
 The form is very uncommon, being a vaft extent of ftrait 
 vault, 280 feet long, and 42 broad; divided lengthways 
 by nineteen pillars and twenty arches. Each pillar divides 
 into eight ribs at the top, which diverge and interfect 
 each other on the roof in a moft curious manner. The 
 windows are narrow and darkfome ; fome rounded, others 
 pointed. The whole has a moft inexpreftible folemnity, 
 heightened by the deep murmur of the river, which flows 
 under the lower end, beneath arched channels. 
 
 Above the cloifters was the dormitory, whofe eaft end 
 communicated with the church. 
 
 The other remaining buildings are the chapel for the 
 poor, a little weft of the fouth end of the dormitory ; 
 
 n and 
 
90 
 
 FOUNTAIN'S- ABBEY. 
 
 and weft of that again two buildings, the eleemofyna- 
 ries, or rooms, where the alms of the houfe were diftri- 
 buted. 
 
 The manor court-houfe is fupported by a fingle pillar. 
 Notwithftanding its ruinous ftate, the courts are ftill kept 
 in it. 
 
 At a diftance beyond the abbey is Fountain s-Hall, a 
 feat built by Sir Stephen ProBor, in the ftyle of King 
 James's Gothic. It had been inhabited this century by the 
 Mejfengers, one of whofe anceftors married the heirefs of 
 Sir Stephen. 
 
 Near this place are fhewn fome very venerable yews, 
 which, you are told, gave fhelter to the flrft monks: but 
 ancient ftory gives that honour to an elm. 
 
 To whom Before I take leave of Fountains, I muft mention that 
 
 GRANTED. 
 
 this abbey, with a great part of its eftate, the fcite of 
 Swyne- Abbey ', in Holdernefs, and the monaftery of Nun- 
 Keeling, with their churches and bells, and many of their 
 eftates, were fold by the King, on the diffolution, to Sir 
 Richard Grejham, for about the fum of 1163/. That Sir 
 Richard fold Fountains, with many of the lands belonging 
 
 to 
 
BOROUGH-BRIDGE. 91 
 
 to it, to Sir Stephen ProBor, one of the efquires to 
 James I. who built Fountain s-Hal/ out of the ruins of 
 the monaftery. His fucceftbrs, as above recited, were the 
 Meffengers, who difpofed of the place to Mr. Aijlabie^ S ° LD T0 Mr ° 
 
 i\ I S L A B I E. 
 
 about the year 1726. The old manfion-houfe was added, 
 and much improved, by the late Mr. Aijlabie. 
 
 Sept, 1. — This day I finally left Norton-Comers ; and, 
 taking leave of the cheerful hofpitable Baronet, renamed 
 my Tour. 
 
 Palling over Hutton-Heath, a tracl: of eighteen hundred 
 acres of good land, I again found myfelf in Leman-lane, 
 which extends from Pierce-Bridge to Borough-Bridge , Borough- 
 being the diftance of thirty-four miles. At the laft I 
 croffed the Ure, on a ftone- bridge of three arches, into 
 Borough-Bridge; diftant about feven miles from Norton- 
 Comers, 
 
 Near this place, in 1322, the unfortunate Prince, Iho- 
 maS) Earl of Lancafter^ made a fhort ftand againft the 
 powers of his nephew, Edward II, then commanded by 
 Sir Andrew de Harcla, The Earl, difgufted with the 
 royal favourites, the Spenfers y precipitated himfelf into 
 rebellion, with a few of the nobility ; but, finding him- 
 
 n 2 felf 
 
BOROUGH-BRIDGE. 
 
 felf obliged to fly,, here, after a fhort flcirmilh, yielded 
 himfelf to the enemy, who had polled himfelf on the banks 
 of the river. 
 
 He tried with Harcla the power of perfuafion; entreated 
 his favour againft the caufe of the minions, and offered 
 him one of his five earldoms, in cafe he would defert the 
 royal party. Finding Harcla obdurate, the Earl, with a 
 prophetic fpirit, foretold the former his fhameful end, and 
 that he fhould die the death of a traitor. Then retiring to 
 a fmall chapel, and fixing his eyes on the crucifix, ex- 
 claimed : Good Lord> I rendre myfelj to thee, and put me 
 yn thy mercy *. 
 
 The unhappy Earl underwent every indignity : was 
 mounted on a moft wretched jade, his head covered with 
 an old hood, and, fo attired, was brought before the 
 King. All his crimes were urged againft him ; and, with- 
 out any trial, he was led to an eminence near, where his 
 head was ftruck off by a Lo?tdon ruffian. 
 
 Moft of his partizans were taken, and fome flain ; 
 among others the potent baron, John de Bobun, Earl of 
 
 * Leland's Col/eff. i. 464. 
 
 Here- 
 
 1 
 
BOROUGH-BRIDGE. 
 
 93: 
 
 Hereford^ who, in pailing the bridge (then of wood, and 
 a little lower down the river), was run through with a 
 lance, by a foldier who lurked beneath. 
 
 The Ure is not navigable higher than Borough-Bridge ; 
 near which the canal from Ripon, about fix miles diftant, 
 communicates by means of a lock. The river, about two 
 miles and a half below the bridge, receives tlie Swale, which 
 rifes remote near the borders of Weft morel and, in Swale- 
 dale. The Ure continues its courfe towards the fouth; 
 but, in a very few miles at Oufeburn, lofes its name, and. 
 receives that of the Oufe y for a vaft fpace, till it is loft by 
 its junction with the Trent and the Humber. 
 
 The town of Borough-Bridge is fmall. This, with the 
 neighbouring village of Aldborough, and the manor, ho- 
 nour, and caftle of Knarejborough, were, in the 13 th of 
 Henry III. granted to the famous Hubert de Burgh, pay- 
 ing 1 00/. a year into the exchequer: but forfeited by the 
 fon, in the fame reign, for fiding with Simon de Montfort, 
 at the battle of Eve/bam *. This place remained in the 
 crown till the reign of Edward II. who beftowed it on 
 his infolent favourite Piers Gavefton f. 
 
 * Dugdate's Baron. 1. 695. 700. f Idem, ii. 43. 
 
 This 
 
 1 
 
94 DEVIL'S ARROWS. 
 
 This place and Aldborough are borough- towns : each 
 fend two reprefentatives. The firft received its privilege 
 from Queen Mary, in 1553 ; the other from Philip and 
 Marjy in 1558: both are in the fame parifb, that of 
 Borough-Bridge ^ and it is the only fingle parifh in England y 
 which fends four members feparately elected. 
 
 Devil's Ar- 
 rows. 
 
 At a fmall diftance weft of Borough-Bridge ', ftand the 
 noted monument, vulgarly called the Devil\ Arrows* 
 Formerly thefe were four : one was broken down and de- 
 ftroyed in the laft century. The remaining ftand about 
 two hundred feet from each other, are of an obelifkal 
 form, and of a ftupendous iize. The tops feem as if 
 iplit, and fomewhat decayed by weather; and the fides 
 deeply furrowed for a certain fpace downwards. 
 
 The height of the talleft, according to Mr. Drake, 
 who, in his plate, gives a fcale of them, is about twenty- 
 two feet and a half from the ground ; the greateft circum- 
 ference fixteen. The depth below ground (as appears by 
 Mr. Drakes fcale*), is four feet and a half. This, and 
 probably the others, were fixed in the earth very artifi- 
 cially ; bedded in feveral ftrata of pebbles, laid in blue 
 
 * Drake's Hiji. York, 27. 
 
 clay, 
 
DEVIL'S ARROWS. 
 
 clay, and that fo hard, that the fpade could not penetrate. 
 That part of the ftone that was beneath the earth, ap- 
 peared to the Rev. Edward Morris, to have had a firft 
 drefling with the duffel; and I believe that to have been 
 the fact. 
 
 The fecond ftone is about twenty- one feet high; the 
 girth feventeen feet four. The third about feventeen feet 
 high, and not lefs than twenty- two feet round. 
 
 Mr. Morris, in 1708, vifited this place, to make his 
 obfervations on thefe ancient columns, for the ufe of Dr. 
 Edmund Gibfon, afterwards Bifhop of London*, then me- 
 ditating a new edition of Camden 's Britannia, It is from 
 the circumftance of their being bedded in blue clay and 
 pebbles, as the reader will find the foundations of the 
 walls of the neighbouring ljurium were, that Mr. Drake 
 imagines they were erected by the Romans* Leland con- 
 jectures that they were trophies fet up by them; and the 
 learned Gale, in his Anton, iter Brit. p. 17, that they 
 were Hermce\ and, from their number, that they expreffed 
 four ways meeting in this place : but that they were 
 Herma, or Mercuries, I deny; fuch being mutilated of 
 hands and feet, and mounted with the head of the deity, 
 or of fome hero. 
 
 Thefe 
 
DEVIL'S ARROWS. 
 
 Thefe monuments of ours are quite artlefs, no relique 
 of fculpture in any part. The furrows, miftaken for 
 flutings, are merely the operation of chance ; the wear- 
 ing by water, of which I have feen a thoufand proofs, in 
 natural columns of limeftone, on a neighbouring moun- 
 tain, called Pen y Gelli, near Downing, 
 
 Mr. Richard Frank, a native of Cambridge, and a fa- 
 mous peripatetic angler, took a walk from his native place 
 to John-a-Groafs houfe, to enjoy his favourite amufe- 
 ment. In 1658, he publifhed his tour, and tells us that 
 he faw, near Borough-Bridge, feven of thefe {tones : fee 
 p. 224. I am forry to diftruft Mr. Frank', but it feems 
 not probable that the number of fuch laborious erec- 
 tions mould have increafed, fince the days of our great 
 antiquarian. 
 
 Thefe enormous maffes were brought from a quarry at 
 Plumpton, two miles beyond Knarejborough. The ma- 
 chines known to the Britons to convey them, and the 
 powers to erect them, in times fo remote, ftrike us with 
 wonder. It is to the ancient natives that we mull: afcribe 
 them. They were either monumental memorials of fome 
 departed heroes ; or the rude objects of worfhip, fuch as 
 the Ifraelites bowed to, when they departed from the 
 3 purity 
 
ALDBOROUGH. 
 
 97 
 
 purity of adoration*. Thefe are ftyled, in Wales , me'mi- 
 hirion y and meini-gwyr ; which fignify high-Jlones, and 
 men-ftones : the laft exprefllve of the firft- mentioned de- 
 figni 
 
 Aldborough lies about a mile on the other fide of Bo- ALDBORouctf. 
 rough-Bridge, Leland fays, that it was porTefTed by the 
 family of the fame name ; and that there were in the 
 church the monuments of two or three knights of that 
 houfe. But it is far more noted for having been a great 
 Roman ftation ; the Ifurium, or Ifubrigantum. It is of a 
 rectangular form, about a mile and a half in circumfe- 
 rence, and was once defended by ftrong walls, ftill vifible 
 in a few places : but, even in Leland's time, were, as he 
 fays, only vejligia quadam, fed tenuria. They are difco- 
 vered, on digging, to be of great thicknefs, and founded 
 on a vaft bed of pebbles, lodged in a blue clay. The 
 town llopes down to the river. 
 
 Towards the middle is a mount, called the Borough- 
 Hill', perhaps raifed by the Saxons, after the retreat of the 
 Romans; and, with the addition of aid, or old, gave the 
 prefent name : as the river Ure, or the Roman Eur us, 
 
 * Rowland's Mona Antiqua, 56. 116. 
 
 o which 
 
KNARESBOROUGH. 
 
 which it ftands on, might have given the ancient Ifw 
 rium. 
 
 Infcriptions, and numbers of antiquities, have been 
 found here, and feveral tefTalated pavements difcovered ; 
 one of which, in a pretty entire ftate, is preferved, by 
 being covered with a fmall room by the poor people, for 
 the fake of getting a little money, by fhewing it to the 
 curious. It is compofed of blue, red, and brown tejferula, 
 difpofed in various elegant forms, furrounded by a plain 
 broad border. 
 
 The coins, which have been found here, are numerous. 
 The owner of the cottage fhewed me a gold one of Trajan y 
 and two of brafs of Antonine and Commodu$\ and others 
 as low as Conftantine and Caraufius* 
 
 Multitudes of other antiquities have been difcovered in 
 thefe precintfs; for an account of which I refer to Mr. 
 Gougtis celebrated edition of Camden^ and other writers, 
 who have treated more particularly of them. 
 
 From hence I viiited KnareJborough> about fix miles to 
 the weft, a large borough-town, feated on a cliff above 
 the little river Nid. The market-place is fpacious, the 
 o fale 
 
KNARESBOROUGH. 
 
 99 
 
 fale of corn considerable ; much grain being brought here 
 for twenty miles eaftward, to fupply the barren moory 
 tract that extends far weft. Here is a flourifliing manu- 
 facture of coarfe linens, from i6d. to 2od. a yard; and 
 all the Hopes near the town are covered with the yarn, 
 placed there to bleach. The collieries, near Leeds, fup- 
 ply the place with coal. 
 
 The caftle is lituated on a lofty cliff, and defended on Castle^ 
 the accellible fide by a vaft foffe, with ftrong works on the 
 outfide. It was ruined in the civil wars; but, by the 
 fcattered fragments, appears to have been a fortrefs of great 
 extent. Parts of towers, and fome ftupendous femi- round 
 buttreffes, yet remain ; and a fquare tower, called the 
 Queens, from a tradition that the royal confort of Henry 
 III, had refided in it. This is the moft complete of 
 any, and at prefent ferves for a prifon. 
 
 Among the prints publifhed by the Antiquarian Society, 
 is one of this caftle in its perfect ftate ; taken from a 
 drawing in the Dutchy of Lancafier office. It appears 
 to have been poliedrous, and to have had within a large 
 yard. Buck, in vol. ii. p. 330, gives a view of its ruins, 
 and Mr. Grofe another. 
 
 o 2 
 
 This 
 
100 
 
 knaresborough: 
 
 This fortrefs was founded by Serlo de Burgh, I think, 
 in the time of William Rufus, or Henry /. He was fuc- 
 ceeded in his poffeiTion by Euftace Fitz-john, a. great fa- 
 vourite with the laft *. It was afterwards refumed by the 
 crown; for we find it granted (with Borough-Bridge J, by 
 King John, to William de Efioteville, for the fervices of 
 three knight's fees f. 
 
 In the fucceeding reign, or that of Henry III. the 
 fame honours were beftowed on that great judiciary, Hu- 
 bert de Burgh, on payment of 100/. a year into the ex- 
 chequer. In the reign of Edward II. it was in the noble 
 family of Vaux%, or De Vallibus-, but again beftowed 
 by that prince on his infolent favourite Piers Gavefton §. 
 On his death it reverted to the crown, and remained in it 
 till 1 371 ; when Edward III. granted the caftle, manor, 
 and honour of this place, to his fourth fon, John of 
 Gaunt, Duke of Lancafler \ in which Dutchy it ftill 
 remains ||. 
 
 * Dugdale's Baron, i. 90. 
 f Idem. 457. 
 
 J Madox Antiq. Exch. ii. 117. 
 § Dugdale's Baron, ii. 43. 
 {J Magna Br. vi. 375. 
 
 The 
 
I 
 
 \ 
 
 I 
 
KNARESBOROUGH. 
 
 IOI 
 
 The church, with the tithes, chapels, &c. did once Church. 
 belong to the neighbouring priory ; but, in 1230, it be- 
 came part of the prebend of Bickhill'*, in the cathedral of 
 York. The molt remarkable things in it, are the tombs of 
 the Slingsbies, in a fide chapel. 
 
 The moft ancient is that of Sir Francis S/mgfiy, Knt. Tombs. 
 
 Sir Francis 
 
 and his lady, Mary, daughter to Sir Thomas Percy, and Slingsbt. 
 lifter to two Earls of Northumberland. They lie recum- 
 bent on an altar-tomb: he in a fhort ruff and clofe cap, 
 with whifkers and forked beard ; fhe with a half moon at 
 her feet, and a lion and three luces on her gown. The firil 
 the badge, the others the arms of the Percies, Around the 
 tomb is a long infcription, which informs us that he 
 had been Mafter of the Horfe to Henry VIII. ferved at 
 the iiege of Boulogne, and was a commander of the horfe 
 at Mujfelborough fight; and that he died in 1600, aged 
 feventy-fix, 
 
 The next is a moft beautiful memorial of Sir William Sir Wil- 
 
 L I AMi 
 
 Slingfiy, who is reprefented ftanding in a nich, in an eafy 
 attitude. His head reclines a little on one hand, the elbow 
 refting on the guard of his fword ; the other hand hangs 
 
 * Burton's, Monaji, Ebor. 306. 
 
 down, 
 
102 
 
 KNARESB0R0UGH. 
 
 down, and holds a fhield, with the family arms. On his 
 head is a high crowned hat; his hair and beard finely 
 curled : he has on a buff* jacket, loofe breeches, boots, and 
 fpurs. The body has a gentle and molt elegant reclination* 
 The whole is one of the bell: fculptures I have feen in our 
 churches. 
 
 This gentleman was the feventh fon of Sir Francis, and 
 diftinguifhed in three reigns as a foldier, courtier, and 
 magiftrate ; in thofe of Elizabeth, James, and Charles L 
 He died in 1634, aged feventy-four. If the conclufion of 
 his epitaph is true, his life and death were happy : — V ado \ 
 fed nec me ttedet vita , nec timeo mori. 
 
 His eldeft brother, Sir Henry, died in the fame year. He 
 is reprefented in another monument, {landing in his fhroud : 
 above is an angel founding the laft trumpet, with the awe- 
 ful fummons, venite in judicium. 
 
 Sir Harry. The martyr to loyalty, Sir Harry Slingfiy, fon to the 
 former, lies beneath an altar-tomb, covered with a ftone, 
 that once lay over the remains of St. Robert, the noted 
 faint of the place. He was one of the laft facrifices to the 
 fears of the ufurping powers, in 1658; being beheaded 
 
 that 
 
KNARESBOROUGH. 103 
 
 that year, as he expreffed himfelf exultingly on the fcaf- 
 fold, for being an honeft man. 
 
 The walks on both fides of the Nid are very pidu- 
 refque, and have near each end a bridge over the Nid. 
 Thofe on the farther fide are through woods, hanging over 
 the water ; with mofr, beautiful peeps through the trees, 
 at the lofty clifTs, the town, and the cattle. At the end 
 of this walk is the celebrated dropping- well ; which, fa- Dropping- 
 
 WELL. 
 
 turated with terrene fparry matter, incrufts, in a fhort 
 fpace, every thing it falls on, and conforms to the fhape 
 of the fubjecT:. Variety of things are placed for that pur- 
 pofe beneath the dropping water, fo that the curious may 
 be fupplied with petrified eggs, birds-nefts, and perriwigs. 
 The fituation is pidturefque and prettily wooded, placed 
 clofe to the Nid. The fpring rifes from a limeftone-rock, 
 part of which projects and overhangs. A regular fhower 
 falls perpendicularly, and pleafes the ear with its perpetual 
 patter. 
 
 A mower from the heavens drove me into a neighbour- 
 ing cottage, where I was amufed with the hiftory of 
 Mother Shipton ; and from her life (here fold), was firft Mother 
 informed of the place of birth of this great perfonage ; 
 
 w 
 
 hich> 
 
 I 
 
104 KNARESB0R0UGH. 
 
 which was beneath thefe cliffs : begotten by an Incubus, 
 on a mortal parent. 
 
 Near this place the van: precipitous cliffs, darkened 
 with the ivy which fpreads over their fides, exhibit a moil 
 magnificent fcenery. Numbers of fmall houfes are built 
 at the bafe, to feveral of which are apartments, fcooped 
 out of the rock. Daws inhabit and caw far above on the 
 face of it, while children are heard prattling in its 
 bowels. 
 
 Crag-House. Some entire dwellings are excavated out of the cliff. I 
 vifited one fo formed, half way up the fides. It was in- 
 habited by a contented family, which lived beneath a folid 
 roof, many fathoms thick ; and had nothing artificial but 
 part of the front. 
 
 St. Robert's Farther on, at the foot of this range of precipices, is 
 Chapel. ' , 
 
 St. Robert s Chapel ; a neat piece of work, wholly cut out 
 
 of the live rock, with a neat arched and ribbed roof, and 
 
 a window and Gothic door cut through the live ftone : the 
 
 ribs reft, on neat pilafters. On one fide are four hideous 
 
 faces; in front is an altar; on its furface are five round 
 
 holes, one in the centre, and one at each corner. On the 
 
 floor is a fhallow hole, poffibly in which was placed a 
 
 crofs ; 
 
KNARESBOROUGH. 
 
 crofs; and four niches, long fince defpoiled of their images, 
 are to be feen on two of the fides. 
 
 The front of the altar, and one of the niches above, 
 are very prettily ornamented with Gothic carving. The 
 length of this cell is ten feet, the breadth eight feet three, 
 the height feven and a half. Near the door, on the out- 
 ride, is cut a tremendous figure, in the action of drawing 
 his fcymeter ; pofTibly defigned for the gigantic genius of 
 the faint, which, as we fhall mention a greatly befriended 
 the pious Robert^ who was a perfon of diftinguifhed 
 virtue. 
 
 This had been the labour of St, Robert, z. hermit, co- 
 temporary with King John ; and, as the legend fays, fon 
 of Took Floure, twice Mayor of York. He underwent 
 great perfecutions from William de Eftoteville\ who, terri- 
 fied by a gigantic apparition *, relented, and made a grant 
 to the holy man of all the lands between the cell and 
 Grimbald crag-ftone. 
 
 About a mile's diftance from the chapel, is the cave of jj is q a 
 the faint, and his ufual refidence. It has, by way of en- 
 
 The whole legend is preferved in Mr. Drakes Hift. York, p. 372. 
 
 p trance, 
 
DER THERE. 
 
 1 06 KNARESBOROUGH. 
 
 trance, a fmall fquare door; and within extends above fif- 
 teen feet. 
 
 HorridMur- This feat of P iet T was > in February, 1745, prophaned 
 by the barbarous murder of Daniel Clark, of Knarefbo- 
 rough ; who, with one Eugene Aram, and two others, 
 had confederated to defraud numbers of their neighbours 
 of plate and goods to a great amount. Here three of them 
 aiTembled to divide their prey, or to fettle the difpofal of 
 it. Clarke was murdered by his partners in iniquity, and 
 buried in the cave. When he difappeared, it was gene- 
 rally fuppofed that he had abfconded. Aram, in a little 
 time, retired into Norfolk, where he lived thirteen years ; 
 at the expiration of which the finger of Providence pointed 
 out the murder in a mod lingular manner. 
 
 DISCOVERED. 
 
 Strangely A labourer difcovered, in a neighbouring quarry, a 
 fkeleton. The minds of people, ftill intent on the odd 
 difappearance of Clark, imagined that it might have been 
 his. The coroner was called in: and the wife of Aram, 
 who had been deferted by her hufband, was examined. Her 
 evidence led to the fufpicion of one Houfeman, confede- 
 rate with Aram, and the perfon murdered, and as deeply 
 concerned in the guilt. 
 
 On 
 
GRIMBALD BRIDGE, 
 
 On his examination, great confufion appeared in his 
 countenance; and he unwarily feized on one of the bones, 
 and heedlefsly declared, " That it was no more Daniel 
 Clarke s bone than it was his." This produced a farther 
 and clofer interrogation, which, at length, terminated in a 
 full confeflion. Aram was taken up at Lynn> in Nor- 
 Jblky in 1758; was tried at Tork, where he delivered a 
 defence, admirable for its ingenuity and difplay of anti- 
 quarian knowledge. He was convicted ; and foon after 
 made an ample acknowledgment of his guilt. His end 
 was horrible; for he attempted to prevent the only expia- 
 tion of his crime, a public execution, by fuicide ; and 
 fucceeded fo far, as to be brought almoft infenfible to the 
 fatal tree. 
 
 Near this cave is Grimb aid- Bridge ^ of a Angle arch. 
 The views of the water-mills, the cafcades formed by them, 
 and of Grimbald crag, are extremely fine. 
 
 A little farther are fome flight remains of the priory of p RI0 
 friars, of the order of the Holy Trinity, brought into our 
 ifland in 1224. They were of the order of St. Auftin, 
 and wore white robes, with a red and blue crofs on their 
 breaft. They allotted one part of their revenues for their 
 own fupport; another for the relief of the poor, and a 
 
 p 2 third 
 
 Grimbald- 
 Bridge. 
 
PRIORY. 
 
 third for the redemption of Chriftians, captured by the 
 infidels. A ftone, feven feet by two, was found here in 
 1776 ; with fculpture, expreflive of their piety, in the lad 
 divifion of their income. On one fide were the arms of 
 the houfe ; on the other, a fleet of fhips, and feveral men 
 and women in the habit of flaves. The workmen de- 
 ftroyed this curious relique. 
 
 Leland fays, that the priory was begun by St, Robert *, 
 who was interred in the chapel of his own building: 
 all that I can difcover is, that he was highly favoured by 
 King John, who bellowed on him forty acres of land in 
 Swinefco; which were confirmed to his fuccefTor Ivo> by 
 Henry III, In the grant they are ftyled, Brethren and 
 Hermits of the Holy Crofs in Knarejborough -f-. 
 
 There feems no certainty of the founder: but, by the 
 grant of Richard, Earl of Cornwa/, and King of the Ro- 
 mans, in 1257, it appears that the order had been es- 
 tablished here before that year : for the confiderable fa- 
 vours which he bellows on them, are exprefsly given — 
 Deo et fratribus ordinis fanftte Trinitatis et captivorum de 
 Knarejburgh \, They continued here till the diffolution : 
 
 * Itin. i. 98. f Dugdale's Monaft. ii. 833. % Dugdale, 834. 
 
 at 
 
SCRIVEN-HALL. 10g 
 
 at which time the laft prior, Thomas Kent, furrendered 
 the place to the King, and received a penfion of 13/. 6s. $d. 
 per ann. The revenues were 35/. \os. Sd. The fcite was 
 granted by Edward VI. to Francis, Earl of Shrewsbury ** 
 
 From Knarejborough I vifited Scriven-Hall, which lies Scriven- 
 
 # Xi A L l 5 
 
 about a mile diftant. It is a good ftone houfe, of eleven 
 windows in front ; has a handfome approach, winding 
 through a wood, and a good view towards the city of York. 
 It is at prefent pofTeffed by Sir S avi lie Sling fby^ Bart, of 
 the order of Nova Scotia ; who derives it from a train of 
 anceftors, the flrft of whom who fettled here was JVillia77i 
 de Slingjby, who acquired it by marriage with a daughter 
 and heirefs of Thomas de Scriven, hereditary forefter of the 
 forefts and parks of Knaref borough-, to which William 
 fucceeded about the beginning of the reign of Edward 
 Illf. 
 
 Among the portraits preferved here, is one of the victim Portraits. 
 to loyalty, Sir Henry, reprefented in prifon, dreffed in 
 black, a turnover, and with grey hair and a fmali beard. 
 I cannot but recount a complaint he made, of the ex- 
 pence of his election for Knarejborough, in 1640 .:— 
 
 * Tanner, 681. f Collin's Baronets, iv. 341. 
 
 " There 
 
I IO 
 
 SCRIVEN-MOOR. 
 
 <c There is an ill cuftom," fays the worthy baronet, " at 
 Rich elections, to beftow wine on all the town, which coft 
 me fixteen founds at haft, and many a man a drunken 
 pate," 
 
 In the dining-room is a fine portrait of Henry Percy, 
 Earl of Northumberland^ kneeling on one knee, with a 
 book before him, on a ftool. He has on a fmall ruff, is 
 dreffed in black and gold, furred ; the George pendent from 
 his neck, and the garter on his knee : his hair fliort : the 
 date A. D. 1566, aet. fuse 38. The motto, efperance may 
 comphort. — This fpirited nobleman had been committed to 
 the Tower, on light fufpicions of an imaginary plot; and 
 being apprehenlive (as was too frequent in that period), 
 that his ruin might be effected by the power of his enemies, 
 or the luft after his fortune, put an end to his own exift- 
 ence, on Jtme 21ft, 1585: and was heard to declare, 
 
 " That the b (meaning Elizabeth), fhould never have 
 
 his eftates." 
 
 Sc riven- On my return I went over Scriven-Moor, from whence 
 
 Moor. . 1 . . r 1 • • r i i • c 
 
 is a charming view or the river running tar beneath, in form 
 of a horfe-fhoe, round a fine promontory, with a tract of 
 wood ftretching along the banks ; and a profpect of a vaft 
 extent of country far beyond. 
 
 On 
 
CAMP.— HARROWGATE. 
 
 in 
 
 On a point, called Gates-Hill, bounded on one fide 
 by the Nid, which flows at the foot of a vaft fteep, 
 are the veftiges of a camp, of an oblong irregular Camp. 
 figure: it is vulgarly attributed to Cromwel, but is ap- 
 parently Roman \ but of a form which departed from 
 what was ufual with that military people, which, as Ve- 
 getlus obferves, was allowable, whenever the quality of 
 the ground, or the neceflity of the occafion, made it re- 
 quirite. It was protected by an agger and a foffe ; had an 
 entrance at one end; and, within, a tranfverfe diviflon, 
 in which had been one, if not two, porta. It probably 
 was an inner camp to fome of the great ftations in this 
 country ; was in a fecure place, and had the command 
 of water, and a vaft, as well as beautiful, view of the 
 country. 
 
 In the year 1773, I did not think the neighbouring 
 Harrowgate worthy a vifit; but in May, 1777, I had a 
 ferious call to that noted fpa. On the 1 2th of that month 
 we left Ealing, then the refidence of my worthy nfters, 
 now deceafed; and paffing through London, took the di- 
 rect road by Bedford, Stilton, Wandsford, Grantham, 
 Newark, Retford, and Done after-, thence to Ferry-bridge, 
 by Bramham-Park, Spofforth, and Wet her by, to Harro- 
 gate. 
 
 Upper 
 
112 
 
 UPPER HARROGATE. — NEW CHAPEL. 
 
 Upper Har- Upper Harrogate, long celebrated for its medicinal 
 
 R O G A T E • 
 
 fprings, and for the great refort of company during the 
 fummer-feafon, lies in the parim of Pannall, about four 
 miles to the fouth of that hamlet. The church is a vica- 
 rage, dedicated to Robert Flower, better known by the 
 name of St. Robert, of Knarejhorough; who was in high 
 efteem with the great men of his time. Many miracles 
 were attributed to him ; fuch as the taming wild beafts, 
 and the yoking of ftags, and making them fubfervient to 
 the ufes of the hufbandman : but our faint did not want 
 the aid of fuperftition to exalt his character. 
 
 The places of entertainment confifl: of feveral excellent 
 inns, fcattered along the edge of a dreary moor. The 
 company eat together. Each houfe is furnimed with a large 
 parlour, and breakfafting-room. 
 
 New Cha- Till the year 1744, by reafon of their diftance from 
 the church, the inhabitants were obliged to attend divine 
 fervice at Knarejborough, In that year, a fubfcription was 
 raifed among them to build a chapel in Upper Harrogate, 
 Lady Elizabeth Haft in gs led the example, by a donation 
 of fifty pounds. The building being complete, divine 
 fervice is performed in it on Sundays, Wednefdays, and 
 3 Fridays, 
 
 PEL. 
 
SULPHUR-WELL. 
 
 113 
 
 Fridays, during Summer ; and on Sundays only during 
 Winter. 
 
 The firfl fpring difcovered here was the old Spa, or vitri- 
 olic fpring. It was found out in 1571 by Mr. William 
 Slingfby, a travelled gentleman, who obferved that it had 
 properties fimilar to thofe of the German Spa. For fome 
 time he relided at the Grange, and afterwards removed to 
 Bilton, at that period, a royal park well Rocked with deer ; 
 at prefent a hamlet, with feveral houfes : there are other 
 chalybeate fprings, which are occaiionally applied to ; but 
 the principal, and that which occafions the great refort of 
 
 r r 3 & Sulphur 
 
 company, is the Sulphur Well, in a bottom, at what is Well. 
 called Lower Harrogate, and near which are confiderable 
 buildings for the reception of patients, amidft a vapour 
 moft fetidly falutary. This fpring is remarkably efficacious 
 in fcorbutic complaints, and has effected fuch cures as have 
 brought it into very great and deferved reputation. The 
 bathing is in tubs in the diftant houfes, or in baths in thofe 
 near the fprings. The refort is great : we often fee — 
 
 Mifs Scratchit go in, and the Countefs of Scales, 
 Both ladies of very great fanhion in Wales. 
 Then all of a fudden two perfons of worth — > 
 My Lady Pandora Mac-Jcurvy came forth, 
 With General Sulphur, arrived from the North. 
 
 It 
 
ii4 
 
 SULPHUR-WELL. 
 
 It appears that St. Mungo, a Scottijh faint, who, about 
 the year 543, driven by perfecution from his fee at 
 Glafgow, to the protection of his friend, St. David, in 
 South Wales, virlted this place, and left his name to a 
 well, which it ftill retains. It is probable he bathed and 
 bellowed his benediction on the waters. They are the an- 
 nual refort of numbers of North Britons, who with laudable 
 nationality bathe with double the faith in fprings fan&ified 
 by their faintly countryman. 
 
 Notwithftanding the difmal iituation of the inns and 
 lodging-houfes, yet they are placed in the centre of a 
 number of rides, which terminate in places extremely 
 worthy of the travellers' notice. I had here the good for- 
 Mr. Allan, tune to make acquaintance with George Allan, Efq. of 
 Darlington, a gentleman of the law, but fince pofleiTed of 
 a large fortune in that neighbourhood, which devolved to 
 him from his relation, Mrs. Ann Allan, of Blackwel 
 Grange. In his company I vifited Brimham Crags, about 
 nine miles to the north from Upper Harrogate. We had 
 determined not to neglect in our way any place worthy 
 attention. After two or three miles riding, we reached a 
 beautiful vale, watered by the river Nid, which divides 
 a track of meadows, animated with cattle and fheep, and 
 the riling grounds, richly cultivated and wooded. We 
 
 crofTed 
 
RIPLEY-HALL. 
 
 croffed a bridge of two arches, beneath which the river 
 
 loofes itfelf in the fhaded banks. We afcended a fmail 
 
 rifing to Ripley- Hall, the ancient refidence of the ancient Ripley 
 ° c < # Hall. 
 
 family of the Inglebyes, at this time reprefented by Sir 
 John Ingleby, a minor. The feat is at Ripley , a village 
 placed on an advantageous bank, and well wooded: the 
 guardian has lately fpoiled it of its prime honors, fome 
 aged elms, which meafured twelve feet fix in girth, and 
 were above feventy feet high. 
 
 The houfe is partly a tower of the time of Edward VI, 
 embattled : a more ancient edifice ftill remains of wood 
 and plaifter, and folid wooden ftairs. There is at prefent 
 a well ftocked library. 
 
 Here are preierved one of the two pigs of lead found in Roman pig 
 
 ... OF LEAD. 
 
 1 73 1, in Hay/haw- Moor, in the weft-riding: on thefe are 
 infcribed Imperatore Ctefar Domitiano Augujlo Confule 
 Septimum ; and on one Brig, fignifying it had been call in 
 the country of the Brigantes. This is engraven in the fii ft 
 volume of my Weljh tour ; and fome account of feveral 
 fimilar productions is given in that work. 
 
 The entrance to the houfe is through a porch, the de- 
 fcent into it by three fteps ; the hall is large and lofty, has 
 
 cl 2 its 
 
n6 
 
 RIPLEY-HALL. 
 
 its bow-windows, its elevated upper-table, and its table 
 for vaffals, and is floored with brick. 
 
 In a good modernized room are fome copied family por- 
 traitSj three-quarter pieces. 
 
 Portraits. Sir William Ingleby^ fhort hair and beard, whifkers, 
 fmall ruff, armour rich in gold. He was treafurer of 
 Berwick in the time of Edward VI. 
 
 Sir William^ his fon, with fhort curled hair, turn- over, 
 black-jacket and breeches, gold girdle, and a fhort fword. 
 
 yohn, brother to the treafurer, fhort hair, peaked beard, 
 great turn- over, black jacket, fitting. 
 
 Sir William, a volunteer at Marjlon-Moor : fhort hair, 
 in armour, a blue fafh. 
 
 Another Sir William, fitting, aged, bald front, long 
 whitifh hair, black veft and breeches, grey ftockings, 
 yellowifh furtout, on the arm of the chair. 
 
 A lingular portrait, an original on board : a man in fhort 
 dark hair, black veft open before, fmall turn- over, holds 
 i in 
 
RIPLEY- CHURCH. 117 
 
 in one hand a black-hiked fword ; the other hangs down 
 averted, as if rejecting the offer of a purfe from the clouds, 
 in a hand ; another hand appears oppofite, holding to 
 him a mirror: his back is againft a great tree: the motto, 
 Imparatus, paratus. Date, 1599, set. 25. 
 
 Our Saviour bound, crown of thorns, the high-prieft 
 behind, on board. 
 
 A cottage on fire, in a winter's night: great diftrefs in 
 the poor people. 
 
 In the church-yard, is a lingular bafe of a crofs. 
 
 In the church are tombs of the Inglebyes : one of a Sir Ripley- 
 Thomas and wife; he armed, me in a wimpler. Monks 
 in front, under an arch. 
 
 Another Sir William^ recumbent; armed, curled hair, 
 fon to the treafurer. 
 
 A great farcophagus, with a carved urn above, in a 
 nich, to Sir jfohn Ingleby^ 1741. 
 
 The owners of Ripley have been in poiTeflion, ever fince 
 
 the 
 
1 1 8 BRIMH AM CRAGS. — HALIFAX-PARISH. 
 
 the time of Richard II. ; when Sir Thomas de Inglehy, 
 one of the juftices of the Common-Pleas, in the year 
 1378, had it in right of his lady, daughter to — — 
 Ripley ) of this place. 
 
 A little beyond Ripley we paffed by a fchool, founded 
 in 1740, as the infcription denotes, in his life-time, by 
 Robert Long, Efq. rear-admiral in his majefty's fervice ; 
 endowed with forty pounds a-year, four acres of land, 
 and a good houfe for the mafter. 
 
 After leaving Ripley, the country grows very unplea- 
 fant, the road on a ridge almoft woodlefs. 
 
 Brtmham The celebrated Crags, the fuppofed aggregate of Drui- 
 dical antiquities, are on the rude plain of the fummit ; 
 beneath which is a vale, wooded with birch, holly, and 
 hazel. The crags are difperfed in all parts, in groups of 
 various extents ; and frequently in fingle maffes. They 
 are often undefcribable; and require the beft fkill of the 
 artift to give an adequate idea of their multiform fin- 
 gularity. 
 
 Druidical The fir ft gentleman who pointed out to our countrymen, 
 
 Halifax Pa- as Druidical remains, thefe phenomena of nature, was 
 rish. the 
 
BRIMHAM CRAGS.— HALIFAX PARISH. 
 
 119 
 
 the Rev. John Watfon, Re&or of Stockport, He difco- 
 vered them fingly, or in rocky mafTes, in or near the pa- 
 rim of Halifax. He dignifies them with the name of 
 Druidical remains, of which he gives a curious plate.— 
 A logon Jlone, or a rocking flone, is one. 
 
 This is the kind which, either by a fortuitous alighting 
 on a fmall apex, or being placed by human force, is capa- 
 ble, notwithftanding the vaft fize of many, to be fhaken 
 by a very fmall preflure. 
 
 The Druids, fays Mr. Toland (quoted by Mr. Watfon J, 
 imprefTed on their votaries that the moving of them was 
 miraculous, and a power referved to their facred orders. 
 
 Stones of this kind extend as remote as the diftant Cajh- 
 mer. The fame kind of deceit was attempted to be prac- 
 tifed on Bernier (fee his Voyage to that Paradife of the 
 Indies, p. 112), by the Mahometan Mollahs. The ftone 
 was large, and of a round form; and this they were to 
 lift with a {ingle finger from the ground. They, indeed, 
 went beyond the Druidical power, which was only to put 
 the ftone in motion. The other ftones, defcribed by Mr. 
 Watfon, are evidently Druidical \ fuch as circles, upright 
 columns, &c. 
 
 On 
 
1 20 
 
 BRIMHAM CRAGS. 
 
 On my arrival on the fummit of the hill, the feat of 
 wonders, my aftonifhrnent was unfpeakable ; the whole 
 was new to me; a flat covered with (tones of forms the 
 moil lingular, and many of lizes mofl ftupendous. 
 
 The conftant companion of my Tours, Mofes Griffith, 
 was immediately fet to work ; and did full juftice to their 
 grotefque figures and magnificence. My fancy could not 
 create remains of the works of art, or relics of Druidical 
 fuperflition. Like the philofophers in the court of Brob- 
 dignag, I (heltered my ignorance, that I had found nothing 
 but relplum fcalcath\ which is literally interpreted lufus 
 nature, the fports of nature : the coincidence of a mul- 
 titude of {tones, at the great event of the fublidence 
 of the waters after the diluvian cataftrophe, or which 
 nature, in her frolics, caufed to affume the variety of 
 imprelTed forms, we fee on them. The ftony part 
 will retain them to eternity : they were left concealed 
 in the foft or muddy part which fubiided with them, 
 till the frequency of leffer deluges warned away the 
 foft concealing parts, and expofed to view thefe femi- 
 miracles. 
 
 Such inftances are not infrequent on the mountains of 
 
 North 
 
BKOfHAM CRAGS, PLATE 1 
 
 riib.Feb. u^"4,T>v J.Seott.V!' 447, Strand. 
 
BRIMHAM CRAGS.— HALIFAX-PARISH. 
 
 I 2E 
 
 North Wales : the ftupendous ftones on the Glyder-V awr, 
 and alfo Cader-Idris, lying in wild direction, and others 
 of fize immenfe crofling them. Notwithftanding they 
 make no pretentions to Druidifm> do merit a vifit equal 
 to Brimham Crags, 
 
 Brimham Crags were examined by Mr. Rooke: his ac- 
 count was read before the Antiquarian Society, May, 1786. 
 They ftand in the parifli of Pately-Bridge. Mr. Rooke 
 gives us, in the eighth volume, two plates, with numbers 
 of figures. 
 
 Mofes Griffith made five drawings, of inconteftable ac- 
 curacy and great fublimity. There are groups aftonifhing, 
 noble, and various. The firft is of (tones, feeming of a 
 nature different from moll of the others; of a light grey 
 colour, large irregularly fhaped maffes, and fome of them 
 with fmall conoid bafes ; and the ftones impofed, or fettled 
 on them, vaft and overhanging. 
 
 The next has apparently a bafe of rock, poflibly form- 
 ing great ftrata beneath the furface : out of one part 
 arifes vaft beds of ftone, fquare, and placed by chance one 
 on the other, a double row, and flat at top. Numbers 
 of columns rife out of the adjacent ground, and one 
 
 R mag- 
 
122 
 
 BRIMHAM CRAGS.— HALIFAX-PARISH. 
 
 magnificently exalts itfelf from a great bafe. All thefe 
 columns confift of numbers of diftincl: flat ftones, one 
 upon the other, with their margin hanging over on every 
 fide. 
 
 The third group is compofed of columns, like the for- 
 mer, more flender and more elegant : one ftone of a molt 
 curious ftructure, a double cone, the bafes uniting and 
 (landing erect on one of its apexes, and feems very much 
 the work of art. The whole ground adjacent is covered 
 with vaft flatted ftone, formed of different layers. 
 
 In a corner of the drawing, my artift has taken in only 
 half an enormous upright ftone, with its fummit crowned 
 with another placed on it tranfverfely, and in form of a 
 wool-pack. It ftands on a great pedeftal, of a conoid 
 form, retting on its apex : the upper ftone may poflibly 
 rock. 
 
 Thefe rocking ftones, if not the effect of chance, are 
 certainly ftanding miracles. I beg leave of Mr. Rooke> to 
 extract from his ingenious work, fome remarks on one of 
 the larger! and moft wondrous of the kind. Speaking, 
 in p. 211, No. 5, in Plate xvi. he fays: 
 
 « This 
 
BRIMHAM CRAGS.— HALIFAX-PARISH. 
 
 123 
 
 " This is an extraordinary groupe of rocks, in which 
 <c there feems to be a kind of uniformity preferved. On 
 cc the top are three rocking ftones: the middle one refts 
 " upon a kind of pedeftal, and is fuppofed to be about a 
 " hundred tons weight on each fide. <z, and c, is a 
 " fmall one : on examining the ftone (^), it appears to 
 " have been fhaped to a fmall knob at the bottom, to give 
 C£ it motion ; though my guide, who was feventy years 
 " old, born on the moors, and well acquainted with 
 " thefe rocks, allured me that ftone had never been known 
 " to rock ; however, upon my making trial round it, when 
 <€ I came to the middle of one fide, I found it moved 
 " with great eafe. The aftoniming increafe of the 1110- 
 " tion, with the little force I gave it, made me very ap- 
 <c prehenlive the equilibrium might be deftroyed ; but, 
 " on examining it, I found it was fo nicely balanced, that 
 <£ there was no danger of its falling. The conftruction 
 " of this equipoifed ftone, muft have been by artifts well 
 " fkilled in the powers of mechanics. It is, indeed, the 
 t{ moft extraordinary rocking- (lone I ever met with; and 
 
 it is fomewhat as extraordinary, that it mould never 
 " have been difcovered before; and that it mould now 
 " move fo eaiily, after fo many ages of reft." 
 
 In this plate, as in plate xvii. of the fame volume, are 
 
 r 2 ftvcral 
 
124 
 
 BRIMHAM CRAGS.— HALIFAX-PARISH. 
 
 feveral other curious ftones ; fuppofed, by Mr. Rooke^ to 
 have been rock idols, or oracular, fome perforated ; and, 
 of the latter kind, to have delivered the oracle through 
 the hollowed paflage. 
 
 In plate xvi. No. 6, is a moft curious one. It partook, 
 in its form, of the idol kind, confifting of feveral large 
 rounded cake-fhaped ftones, growing thinner towards their 
 edges, applied one upon the other, fo as to form a fort of 
 column of a conflderable height, about nineteen feet. 
 The circumference of the outward edge of fome were, ac- 
 cording to my meafurement, forty-nine feet : the fide of 
 the loweft feems to reft againft the adjacent rock. The 
 whole of this amazing mafs is placed, whether by art or 
 nature I will not decide, on a very fmall truncated cone; 
 at top only one foot acrofs, at bottom two feet feven ; 
 and, beneath, is placed a flat, and feemingly a thinnifh 
 flag. 
 
 I neglected taking the meafure of this bafe, fo borrow it 
 from Mr. Rooke. I alfo did not obferve the flag which that 
 gentleman has placed under. I take leave of this ftone, 
 by referring the reader to the fidelity of the drawing made 
 by my fkilful fervant. 
 
 I finally 
 
BRIMHAM CRAGS. — HALIFAX-PARISH, 
 
 I finally take leave of thefe wonderous phenomena by- 
 faying, that oppofite to a weaver's-houfe, beneath the 
 crags, is a round fmall mount, on which is a rectangular 
 natural ftone, quite erect, and, at a diftance, taken for a 
 tower ; it is about thirteen feet broad, and about three feet 
 thick. The country people call it the Noon-Jlo?ie^ as the 
 meridian is made known to them by the mining of the 
 fun on it. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 A 
 
 Auckland, Bifhops, 12 
 
 ■ St. Andrew's, ib. 
 
 — — , tombs there, 
 
 St. Helen's, 19 
 
 , Weft, ib. 
 
 Altars, 39, 40 
 Alice, Sir Robert, 46 
 Aiflabie, family of, 73 
 Aldborough, 94, 97 
 
 ■ , antiquities there, 98 
 
 Arrows, the Devil's, 94 
 
 Aram Eugene, ftory of, 106 
 
 Allan, Mr. 114 
 
 Auftria, Don John of, 63 
 
 , Mathias, Archduke of, 63 
 
 B 
 
 Biackmoor, 1 
 Bradley-Hall, 8 
 Brancepeth-Caftle, 13 
 
 Church, 15 
 
 , tombs there, 
 
 15, 16 
 
 Bulmer, family of, 14, 20 
 
 — — — , Sir John, 21 
 Bier's-Green, 1 7 
 Bowes, family of, 29 
 
 , Sir George, 26 
 
 Bernard-Caftle, 29 
 Bedal-Church, 47 
 Burnifton-Church, 48 
 Borough-Bridge, 91 
 Brimham Crags, 118 
 
 , examined by Mr. 
 
 Rooke, 121 
 
 C 
 
 Cofin, Bifhop, 15, 18 
 Cleveland, William, Duke of, 23 
 Caldron, Snout, 36 
 Catarrick-Bridge, 46 
 Cathorp, 48 
 Charles V. 6*2 
 Carlos, Don, 63 
 
 D 
 
 Douglas, James, the Good, 4 
 Darlington, Earl of, 19 
 Diderfton-Hill, 45 
 Danilh Tilting-Circles, 48 
 
 Den- 
 
128 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Denbigh, Bafil, Earl of, 59 
 Druidical remains, 1 1 8 
 
 E 
 
 Edward III. 4 
 Eure, family of, 10 
 Egerton, Bifhop, 18 
 Eglefton-A bbey, 32 
 Bridge, 35 
 
 F 
 
 Fetherftone, family of, 6 
 Force t, 45 
 
 Fountain's-Abbey, 75 
 — — — — Hall, 90 
 Frank, Richard, 96 
 
 G 
 
 Grafton, Ifabella, Duchefs of, 41 
 Greata river, 42 
 
 ■ bridge, 44 
 
 Graham, Sir R. 57, 58 
 
 — , Sir George, 58 
 
 Gage, Sir John, 60 
 Grimbald-Bridge, 107 
 Gatelhil], 110 
 
 H 
 
 Hutchinfon, Mr. 31 
 Hop ton, Lord, 40 
 Hornby- Caftle, 47 
 Hackfell, 54 
 
 Howard of Ffcrick, Lord, 60 
 Hut ton-Heath, 91 
 
 Harrowgate, 1 1 1 
 
 , Upper, 112 
 
 ■ , New Chapel, ib. 
 
 fulphur-well, 113 
 
 — , difcovered 
 
 by Mr. Slingfby, 1 13 
 Herbert, of Cherbury, Edward Lord, 
 
 61 
 
 K 
 
 Kellophead, 2 
 Knarelborough, 98 
 
 Caftle, 99 
 
 Church, 101 
 
 < , tombs, 10 r 
 
 — walks, 103 
 
 dropping-well, ib. 
 
 ■ crag-houfe, 104 
 
 , St. Robert's Chapel, 
 
 ib. 
 
 , Cave, 
 
 io 5 
 
 , — , murder 
 
 there, 106 
 
 L 
 
 Leafes, 47 
 
 Layton, R. letter of, 84 
 Lancafter, Thomas, Earl of, 91 
 Long, Admiral, Robert, 118 
 
 M 
 
 Murray, Thomas Randolph, Earl of, 
 4 
 
 Maglove, 42 
 
 Morton- 
 
Morton-Tower, 43 
 Middle ton Tyers, 46 
 Marmions, the, 52 
 Mufgrave, 60 
 Mungo, St. 114 
 
 N 
 
 Newfleld-Crags, 12 
 Northumberland, Thomas, Earl of, 
 14 
 
 , Henry, Earl of, 
 
 1 10 
 
 — »- — — — , — , letters of, 
 
 83 
 
 Nevilles, the, 25, 
 New-Inn, 48 
 Norton-Coniers, 56 
 
 , portraits there, 57 
 
 Noon-ftone, 125. 
 
 P 
 
 Purbeck, Vifcount, 59 
 Philip II. 52 
 Piiory, 107 
 
 R 
 
 Raby-Caftle, 19 
 
 j pictures there, 22 
 
 • , tenure of, 24 
 
 Rokebv-houfe, 38 
 
 , antiquities, ib. 
 
 , pictures, 40 
 
 Robinfon, Sir Thomas, 38 
 Roman mile-flone, 39 
 
 KX. 129 
 
 Koman enmp, 43, 56, 111 
 Rokeby, Thomas de, 43 
 Rawenfworth-Caftle, 45 
 Roman pig of lead, 115 
 Ripon, 64 
 
 Monaftery, 65 
 
 , Athelftan's charter, 66 
 
 Collegiate Church, 67 
 
 Chapter- Houfe, 68 
 
 crypt, 69 
 
 « tombs, ib. 
 
 ■ ■ — hofpitals, 71 
 
 charters, 72 
 
 Ripley-Hall, 115 
 
 , portraits there, 116 
 
 Church, 117 
 
 * School, 1 1 8 
 
 S 
 
 Stanhope-Park, 3 
 
 Scots, inroad of the, 4 
 
 Stanhope-Hall, 6 
 
 Stanhupe, 7 
 
 Suffex, Earl of, 26 
 
 Strafford, Thomas, Earl of, 27 
 
 Staindrop, ib. 
 
 Streatlam, 28 
 
 Seeming lane, 44 
 
 Swale, the, 47 
 
 Seeming, 48 
 
 Studley Park, 73- 
 
 Slinglby, Sir Henry, 102, 109 
 
 Shiptor, Mother, 103 
 
 Scriven-Hall, 109 
 
 , pictures there, 109 
 
 s Scriven- 
 
130 
 
 Scriven-Moor, 110 
 T 
 
 Tees, the, 35 
 
 's iorce, 37 
 
 Thornborough-Heath, 48 
 Tanfield, Weft, 51 
 — , , tombs in the church, 
 
 53 
 
 V 
 
 Ure, river, the, 51 
 V 
 
 Vane, Sir Henry, 27 
 W 
 
 Wier, the, 2 
 Wierdale-Chapel, 3 
 Woliingham, 7 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Witton-Caftle, 10 
 
 Weftr-ioreiaad, Charles, Earl of, 
 14, 26 
 
 } Ralph, Earl of, 28 
 
 , Henry, Earl of, ib. 
 
 Whitworth, 17 
 Wright, Mr. Thomas, ib. 
 Winch-Bridge, 35 
 Walpole, Sir Robert, 4a 
 Wy cliff, 44 
 
 — , John, ib. 
 
 Walfl), Sir W. 6r 
 
 , Lady, ib. 
 
 Wath-Church, 64 
 Wakeman, office of, 69 
 Watfon, Rev. John, 119 
 
 Y 
 
 Yews, ancient, 90 
 
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