H CENTf^ /^c~- inr^ (sVX- f%L. J^X-rj ? Ai Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2016 https://archive.org/details/naturepropertiesOOIucc THE /' NATURE AND PROPERTIES OF ILLUSTRATED : WITH A DESCRIPTION OF THE ENGLISH FLEECE. * BY JOHN LUCCOCK, WOOLSTAPLER. J ‘ As an object of national attention, the coat of the sheep is of the first importance ; and every wilful attempt to supplant, or debase it, is an act of treason against the state.” Marshall. — LEEDS: PRINTED BY EDWARD BAINES, AND SOLD BY J. HEATON, LEFDS; AND J. HARDIN©, st. James’s street, London. 1805 , <£nttrel> at Stationers’ l^alt. PREFACE. The small volume, now offered to the attention of the public, depends for acceptance en- tirely upon its own merit. If it posses any, patronage will not be wanting ; if it be destitute of interest, the author is content that it should be consigned to oblivion. He published, because he was vain enough to think that he possessed some important informa- tion which does not fall within the common line of reading. The work was written hastily, and printed as it was composed ; this circumstance will account for some of the errors which it contains, and some slight inaccuracies. It is true, we have no reason to expect that the public will tolerate indolence, but when persons employ the leisure hours, which busi- ness affords them, in communicating their observa- tions to the public, and in attempting to rouse attention to a great national object, they must be allowed to express themselves in unadorned language, and sometimes in terms which the man of taste would utterly discard. The 11 The reader will perceive, that the author has not completed his original intention. Some hints are thrown out which indicate a design of including a decription, not only of the English fleeces, but also of the wool produced in Scotland and Ireland. It was found, however, that either the subject must be treated very concisely, or the volume enlarged be- yond a reasonable bulk. The first is not readily submitted to when the author has some degree of vanity, nor the last when he despairs of securing attention. In many instances the want of information is lamented. — It is almost impossible to write with pre- cision upon such general subjects as the culture, and the quantity of English wool. Should any palpable mistakes be observed, the author will be thankful for better instruction. J. L. Leeds, September 25th, 1805 . THE NATURE AND PROPERTIES, Kc. OOL is an article very closely connected with the interest of every class of society. Considered as a production of almost every farm in the kingdom, it becomes the immediate object of attention to the whole body of Agriculturists, and the same prin- ciple which renders it desirable, that we should ob- tain from the soil all its produce in the most perfect state, applies with more particular propriety to wool, than to most other articles. Indeed we cannot help wishing that our fleeces possessed all the ex- cellencies which the climate, and the circumstances of the country will admit of, and that no limitation w ere set to their improvement, below the point of absolute and complete perfection ; for then only can the grower receive from them that compensation for his labour, and ingenuity,, which he deserves ; and the land owner that interest upon his capital, and remunera- tion for his confidence, which he has a right to expect. If either the quality of wool be inferior, or its quantity smaller, than it ought to be, the commu- nity loses annually a portion of those advantages which nature solicits it to receive ; and makes the A most 4 most ungrateful return for her liberality. The more we can obtain from the ground of any va- luable commodity, and the greater degree of ex- cellency which it attains, so much the larger re- ward we receive for our industry, and so much the more we increase our wealth. As an article of manufacture, wool assumes, at least, the second place in the rank of importance. It is closely connected with our comfort, and affords many of the ornaments of social life. It fur- nishes a large portion of our population with em- ployment, and gives them their daily bread, con- tributing at once, like all similar manufactures, to the strength and the affluence of the country. But if it were possible to suppose that these should withdraw their support, or even languish for a con- siderable period, the workmen would fall an heavy incumbrance upon the land; they must derive their subsistence from the wealthy, the active and the benevolent. It is desirable therefore to maintain them in their full vigour, and to render their happy influence, if possible, uniform and permanent. The best mode of attempting this, is to occupy the people in working up the best of materials, to produce by their labour goods of the most valuable quality, and those which at once are in most request, and afford the largest returns for the capital originally employed. These, almost invariably, occupy a larger number of hands in their completion than fabrics of an inferior quality, they allow greater wages and contribute most liberally to the comforts of the poor. Fortunately, at present, the prevailing taste in Britain is for cloths of the first excellency, and very few amongst us are contented to appear in those of a lower 5 fewer order. Hence,, the demand for prime wools is perpetually increasing, and the looms call loudly upon the farmer, and the merchant, to supply their deficiencies. Hence too, every man contributes, in a much higher degree, a share towards the public employment ; brings into circulation a larger capital than is necessary in the manufacture of inferior goods ; and gives that activity to it which is the source of wealth. If however instead of furnishing the raw material from our domestic productions, we seek it from other countries, or import it from rival nations, we do ourselves a real injury,, and indirectly transfer a por- tion of our advantages to the hands of strangers; a conduct which, however noble and disinterested it may appear in a personal view, deserves, in a political one, the severest censure. We cannot justify, I fear in this respect, the existence of our commerce for Spanish wools without hinting, at the same time, that our forefathers have been too indolent, or too in- attentive ; a charge, from which, I trust, their sons will be anxious to redeem their own character. If the raw material be so far inferior as to render it impossible to produce from it, with the utmost ingenuity, the very best of commodities, we open a wide door for the introduction of rival fabrics ; and although we may endeavour to bar their way by pro- hibitions and penalties, they will nevertheless insinuate themselves amongst us, and too frequently become the objects of envy, especially if their superiority in my respect be strikingly evident. By this means, also they silently sap the foundations of our own ma- nufactures,, by producing an unfavourable opinion of them, and, if brought into the country in consider- A 2 able 6 able quantities, tend to render them languid and un- settled. What indeed can that country expect, whose inhabitants are perpetually wishing for the silentand secretintroduction of foreign manufactures, but that those who are employed in similar ones at home, will watch their conduct with a jealous eye* and be ready on every occasion, when they think themselves aggrieved, to seek a less precarious mode of employing themselves and their property ? Where- as, on the other hand, a confidence in the superior excellency of their materials and their workmanship induces them to push their trade, proves the best stimulus to enterprize, reduces difficulties, renews the vigour of genius, collects capital, and points out new paths to riches. Happily the manufactures of Britain have obtain* ed an opinion in the foreign markets pre-eminently favourable ; and it is sound and necessary policy to do ail we can to render it more extensive and per- manent, to subdue prejudices, remove difficulties which still lie in the way of their introduction, and to excite comparisons which we are sure must end in our own advantage. But even, this superiority produces jealousies, which must not be overlooked. It incites those nations, which receive our goods, to continual exertion, in order to prevent their impor- tation ; and, to promote those fabrics of a similar kind, which exist among themselves, they load ours with very heavy duties, or entirely prohibit them. In such a situation it is evident that we can re- tain our trade no longer than we can produce goods of superior materials, ^or better texture, or at a lower price ; no longer than we can give to our rivals new objects of imitation, and are careful that they they do not overtake us in the competition for per- fection. Thus do our manufactures perpetually call upon those who produce the raw material, to im- prove it rapidly, in order to render their superiority over foreign ones more decisive; that; they may gain a firmer footing in the countries which receive them, and extend themselves to those where they are not admitted. The export trade of any article, the material of which is produced at home, is of very great import- ance ; for so long as the looms of our country do more than supply our own consumption, ’tis by this channel alone, that the surplus can find its vent. It keeps our domestic markets free, and produces that degree of competition which is salutary to all. But the instant that surplusbecomes an incumbrance, priceslower, employmentslackens,and discontent pre« vails amongst those who are first affected, and who are commonly too ill-informed todiscoverthe causeof that difference which they perceive in their circumstances . g Nor should it be imagined by him who produces the material, from which goods are fabricated, and upon whom any depreciation in their value must ultimately fall, that a small surplus upon the market Is of trivial consequence ; for it is scarcely to be con-* eeived how much a circumstance of this kind will affect the demand for goods, and the price of them. These remarks apply to manufactures in general^ but are more particularly suitable to those of wool, not only as it is a production of our country, but because the goods into which it is wrought, form a principal part of the attire, and are used for man}? household purposes, throughout most of the tem- perate regions of the globe. When 8 When we recollect the number of succeeding ages through which this valuable material has been applied to some of the prime conveniences of life, and the immense number of persons who have made it an object of their regard, we are almost induced to believe that it must already be produced in its most perfect state, that its general properties must* be universally understood, and that the most ready means of rendering them useful, have been ev»*y where adopted. But when we notice the state of “ Wool-bearing Animals,” either in our own coun- try, or as they exist among foreigners, we are com- pelled to form a very different opinion ; and the improvements which have been adopted in almost every branch of the woollen manufactory, at diffe- rent periods of its history, serve to convince us that there is still much to be attained, even by nations who have most reason to boast of their superior proficiency^ The imperfection of the British fleece has of late years been very generally acknowledged, and the mode of improving it most sedulously sought after. The experiments of a Sovereign, anxious to promote, by every means, the welfare of his subjects, have ascertained that the soil and climate of Eng- land are adapted to the growth of much finer wool than has generally been produced there, and have diffused an enterprising spirit among the gentlemen of large landed property, from which the most happy effects may be predicted. The exertions of the British Wool Society, while it subsisted, did much tov r ards depasturing the hills of Scotland wfith an improved race of the most useful of quadrupeds, and lead us to expect that the time is not very remote, when 9 when the fleeces of the northern part of the island will be in no respect inferior to those of the southern districts; and when their number shall be increased in a very large proportion. The efforts also of private individuals, who have taken pains to stock their farms with a better race of sheep, whether they have been chosen from the cotes of the most eminent breeders, or judiciously selected from the lambs of their own rearing, entitle them to the gratitude of every one, who is capable of seeing with an honest pride the growing riches of his country. Influenced by an earnest desire of promoting, so far as it shall be in his power, the amelioration of the British fleece, and by no means pretending to a superior degree of information respecting its pro- perties, cr the improvement of which it is suscepti- ble, than may be easily attained by all who are engag- ed in growing, or manufacturing it,, the author of the following pages, commits them to the candour of the public, convinced that he has undertaken a task, which, in many respects, must be imperfectly exe- cuted. No one, at least to the best of his know- ledge, has hitherto attempted to describe? the essential qualities. of wool,- — the circumstances up- on which its adaptation to manufactures depends, the peculiarities of the British fleeces,— nor the num- ber of them which these islands produce ; although the discussion of such subjects appears to be an object of some importance, in the present state of political inquiry, and agricultural experiment.. Whatsoever he has met with upon these points, in the course of his reading, is either too general to afford much satisfaction, or scattered too widely through a num- ber 10 her of detached publications to be of general utility^ Of all the assistance, however, which he could de- rive from the writings of others, he has most freely availed himself, and here embraces the opportunity of acknowledging his obligations. Some of the re- marks, which he has met with and adopted, were new to him ; many have been comfirmed by his own observation, in almost every district in England, and through the course of several years attention to his occupation as a woolstapler. The deductions which he has made, he trusts, will be authorized by the premises from which they are drawn, and though they cannot always be supposed to arrive at the cer- tainty of demonstration, yet he hopes that they will always approximate to truth. And if, upon the whole, it shall appear that he has treated subjects interesting to his countrymen, in a manner worthy of their attention, his utmost expectation will b§ grati- fied. SECTf SECTION r. Wool in General . YV E are so accustomed to consider this substanc* as the exclusive production of the sheep, and indeed as the peculiar characteristic of that tribe of animals, that it excites some degree of suspicion, lest the per- son who first informs us, that these opinions are not well founded, should be only amusing* us with tales, or trying the extent of our credulity. If by acci- dent a sheep, which never produced wool,, attracts our attention, we deem it an animal in whose forma- tion nature has departed from her established course. Yet, with whatever suspicion such accounts may be received, it is a fact, ascertained beyond the possibi- lity of doubt, that there are sheep, whose backs are as perfectly destitute of wool as those of a deer, or a greyhound. In every other respect, they are truly and properly sheep. It is as impossible to class them otherwise, as it is to deny, that the different varieties of dogs belong to the same family, merely because one has a sleek, and another a shaggy covering. Most of those sheep however, which are destitute of wool, have some kind of ooat. Sometimes short, stiff, opaque hairs start fromidieir pelt, at considerable distances from each other,, somewhat in the manner that. 12 that bristles do from the sides of the hog, and shew between them the fleshy colour of the skin ; others have a coarse, but smoother coat, whose silky lusture invites the touch, and which under the management of an eastern shepherd, assumes a compactness supe- rior to that of our well dressed horses. Sheep of this description, are found in a large proportion of Tartary ; while those of a roughercast, disperse them- selves in Africa, in the East Indies, and the Chinese empire. Another kind of sheep, if we distinguish them by the coat alone, bears a much longer and shaggy hair, placed not very thickly upon it, but hanging down in a close and waved staple. These, to the eye, seem to resemble in some degree theoldlong-wooled sheep of the midland counties; but upon a close inspection, their covering is found to be decidedly a hairy substance, which concealsabout its roots, a fine short and downy wool. This, by means of instruments adapted to the purpose, is separated from the hair, and employed in manufactures. This variety of fleeces abounds in the north of Europe, in many parts of the Russian empire, on the shores of the Black Sea, among the Tartars of Asia, at the Cape of Good Hope, and in South America. These fleeces differ very considerably from each other in the length of the pile, their weight, colour, and the porportion of short and silky wool, which maj' be separated from them. In some, the pile is very long, and seems adapted to withstand the rigours of the Arctic winters. In others, it is better adapted to the milder regions by its lightness, and to the animals, which wander in search of food over wide extended wastes, whose saline soils yield but 13 but a scanty herbage. It is not possible to state* from what we at present know of these flocks, any opinion of the average quantity of the softer sub- stance which they yield. Perhaps it can scarcely ex- ceed four ounces. The “ hair” of this wool, i. e. the fineness or coarseness of the pile, the first object of a stapler’s concern, is of a very inferior kind, such as we should appropriate to almost the lowest of purposes. Most of the other sheep, that we meet with, fur- nish that substance which we denominate wool, although the diversity of its properties, and of the pur- poses to which it is applied, is much greater than is commonly imagined ; for almost every country, and every province, has its peculiar fleece, and its distinct manufacture. These animals, producing a more or less valuable coat, abound in the western, and the southern parts of Europe; on the northern shores of Africa; in Syria, and Persia^ and most probably in some parts of Tibet. They exist in Denmark, Swe- den and North America* being recently introduced there. It seemed necessary to give this general descrip- tion of fleeces, not onlyfo correct the common error t)f those, whose opportunities of attaining more cor- rect information are very limited, but also to lead them to remark, that as some varieties of the sheep possess a covering which differs but little from that of other quadrupeds, so also, there are beasts, which yield a fur in many respects resembling wool, and which is used for precisely the same purposes. We allude particularly to the goat, the camel, and the dromedary, in the East, and the vicuna in South America. When these animals are stripped of that covering, which nature has given to them, it is sometimes called wool, and in reality possesses so many 14 many of the properties of that which we obtain from sheep, that we are compelled to consider them as substances of a similar kind. It is not easy to point out the precise difference betwixt wool and hair ; for though, in general, when both are presented to us, we decide without hesitation, yet, in many instances, their properties so blend with each other, as to oblige the best judges to determine differently, and the same person, after a short inter- val, will sometimes contradict his former opinion. In fact, it is not very uncommon to find filaments, which, in different parts of their length, exhibit both substances too visibly to be mistaken. This pheno- menon, however, so far as I have had opportunities of observing it, appears most frequently in the fleeces, which have received from culture but little alteration ; which approach nearest to the state of those obtained from sheep, "of which little or no care has been taken since the period, when their first progenitors were turned upon the mountains, where the race has existed through such a number of successive generations, that their origin is now un- known. Such kind of hairy wool is so very common in the north of England, and among the rougher fleeces of the hilly tracts of Scotland, as to leave no doubt of the fact. It may easily be attested by taking the kemps, or coarse hairs with which it abounds, from the staple, and observing them minutely. Some- times it will be clearly a hairy substance., about one half its length, and the remainder wool ; in this case, the wool is generally finer than the other part, and is more inclined to assume a crumpled form, like a line drawn in very irregular curves. The hairy part is sometimes found at that end of the filament, which, at 15 at the time of shearing, was nearest the skin ; not im~ frequently at the other ; it has also been observed in the middle part of it. Conclusions upon this point, however, ought not to be hastily formed, for there are millions of fleeces in which no such appearance can be discovered, and those who meet with only such, perhaps may doubt the correctness of the state- ment. Nevertheless, such kinds of filaments have been observed, and with proper pains may doubtless be found again, with sufficient frequency to convince us that there is a much nearer alliance between the two substances than has been generally supposed ; and that by some unknown process, while growing, they may be converted from one to the other. When we attend closely to the state of the staple, in many parts of the kingdom, we find that the points of it are 'very different from the other part ; a small portion is often much coarser, more brittle, and opaque than the rest, and is such as very few, who are accustomed to discriminate between the two kinds of substance, would scruple to call hair. But these points are pre- cisely the portion of the fleece, which was left upon the back of the animal by the shearer, when he last performed his office. At that period it was doubtless wool, for the part of the staple through which the shears passed to separate it from the sheep (and which is commonly called the leech of the fleece) is wool in the best state which that animal could pro- duce it ; and yet we see that it has gradually chang- ed its nature as it proceeded in its growth, so as, in the space of a year, to become a very different sub- stance. This is another, instance of transmutation, which deserves the attention of the grower, and points out the very intimate connection that subsists B between 16 between two binds of filaments, which have generally been considered as totally distinct from each other. The cause of this gradual alteration we have sought for in the exposure of the pile to the coldness, and the moisture of the atmosphere, to thescorching heatof the summer’s sun, and to the influence of the soil upon which the animal reclines. We have considered whe- therit might not be owing to the perspiration which ex- udes through the skin, an'd mingles with the wool, or to the want of that yolk which, from the external parts of the fleece, is so easily washed off by the showers, or whether it be not the effect of all these causes unitedly. At present we have not met with any rela- tion of experiments which decide our opinion, and have no means of performing them ourselves in order to obtain satisfaction. It is obvious, however, that sheep which are kept in the richer pastures, and in good condition, do not yield a fleece with such hairy tops as those whose lodging is upon dry fallows, and which are obliged to travel over a large space, with a heavy load, in order to obtain their food. From the circumstance of the same animal pro- ducing both wool and hair, in different parts of its body, which are sometimes separated from each other by a bold and regular outline, drawn by nature ; and as this line does not always occupy precisely the same portion of the skin ; and more especially as the two kinds of filaments are often observed to grow most intimately mingled with each other ; we may conclude that the fluid, or whatever it be which pro- duces the one, does not differ much from the secretion which forms the other. We find two kinds of hair, it is true, upon many other animals, as the mane and ihe tails of horses, which differ very greatly from the covering 17 covering of the other parts of their body, but then we always find them upon the same parts, and never in- termingled with each other over the whole surface of the skin. Hence, therefore, we conclude that there is in these parts, where each is observed to grow* some peculiar secretion formed which is adapted to its peculiar production. But in sheep we sometimes find the whole head, and legs and belly, covered with a short stiff hair, sometimes enveloped in a close and thick wool. Some fleeces are quite pure from kemps, while others are very full of a short and brittle hair* which has been produced with the staple, and grown almost from the same root as its wool has done. While attempting to illustrate the transmutation of wool, and the little difference that exists between that substance and hair, I alluded only to the British fleeces, because they fall more readily under the notice of every one who wishes to inspect them. In these coats, however, the intermixture of kemps is considered as an accidental circumstance, and the proportionate weight of them is generally small, when compared with that of the whole fleece. But there are foreign breeds, in which, as we have already' stated, these are more prevalent, and where, con- trary to what is observed amongst us, the production of wool is considered as the surprising and accidental case. Probably in them we should find more striking objects to confirm or correct our opinions. At present I cannot help thinking that there is originally but little difference between the coat of sheep and that of other animals ; that it is only a fur of a particular species, and with properties which render it better adapted to manufactures. The covering with which Providence, always afc- B 2 tentive 18 tentive to the wants of his creatures, has furnished most quadrupeds is peculiarly adapted to the cli- mates which they inhabit. In those, where the thick and heavy coat would prove an incumbrance, we find even the sheep destitute of its usual fleece. On the other hand, from latitudes where the rigours of winter are more severe we import those furs which contribute to the comfort and elegance of our own attire ; while the native, contented with the more common and less expensive produce of his folds, wraps himself in sheep skins, and blesses that hand which made their pile thick, warm and pon- derous. Carefully examining the furs of these animals which differ most from the sheep in their disposition, their habits, and theirforms, we shall observe that they are generally composed of two very different kinds of hair ; the one straight, glossy, and very elastic ; the other more pliable, curled in its appearance, and much softer to the touch. Frequently they are very greatly intermingled with each other, and none of the more downy kind appears upon the sur- face, being greatly overtoped by the rest, corres- ponding exactly, in this respect, with that kind of fleece which is observed to be the production of sheep, in most countries, where it has been greatly neglected ; and the down, or wool, which may be obtained from both, is not only very similar in its appearance, but capable also of being wrought into the same kind of goods, and by precisely the same process ; the best proof of their being not very dissi- milar in their nature. There are furs too of another description, in which these two kinds of hair, instead of being mingled with each other, form a particular portion 19 portion of every filament. In this case, the point of it, or exterior of the pile, is generally more brilliant, brit- tle, and elastic ; that which is nearer to the skin more soft, curled, and woolly ; and the part where the transmutation takes place, is commonly discerni- ble and definite. To be convinced of this, no per- son need do more than examine, with common atten- tion, the furs which are usually worn by the ladies; and he will also remark that, when they have been long exposed , to friction, the brittle hair breaks off, and leaves the muff and the tippet of a ragged and woolly appearance, which totally unfits them for use. ’Tis then, however, that they have become the most proper for manufactures, and having lostthe longand unmanageable hair, they are reserved as a substitute for wool, and offer another reason for believing that the two substances are very nearly allied. When, from the notice of animals, which are so dissimilar from the sheep as the bear, the beaver, and the fox, we turn to those which bear some relation to it, as the moufion and the goat, we shall not be sur- prised to find a much greater resemblance in their fleeces. The long shaggy hair of the latter, it is well known, is spun in the same manner as wool, and used as the common yarn fabricated from our fieeces ; and so very nearly are they alike, that it is uncertain, to this day, whether the celebrated shawls of Cash- mire, though often examined, be wrought from a ma- terial which is produced by the sheep or the goat. The shaggy covering of the goat, it must be con- fessed, is very different from that which v r e find in most of our well attended flocks ; but in many parts of Asia, it appears that they feed together, and are said by some to produce a mongrel offspring, which B 3 bears 20 bears a very exact resemblance both in carcase and in fleece to the worst kind of sheep. Even in our own island it has been maintained, by those whose opinion was determined (perhaps too hastily) by the similarity of their coats, that a variety of the sheep which extends itself very widely over the Highlands of Scotland, is indebted for its peculiarity to the blood of this baser animal. The mouflon, the argali of Dr. Pallas, which is now, perhaps, entirely banished from Europe, bears so great a resemblance to our domestic sheep, and possesses so many of its properties, as to be deemed by naturalists the parent stock. Their fleeces are indeed so much alike, that the description of one almost answers equally well for that of the other. They consist, “ in summer, of a short hair, sleek, and resembling that of a deer.” In winter of ■wool, like down, mingled with hair, every where an inch and half long at least, concealing, at its roots, a fine woolly down, of a white colour in general.” This is the description given of it by Dr. Anderson, in his very excellent “ Account of sheep found in the Russian empire,” and communicated by Dr. Pallas himself. Other authors have represented it of a “ nut brown colour,” “ a grey,” anda“ feruginous gre «” Perhaps it may assume this variety of hues in the different situations where it has been found. It is now confined almost, if not entirely, to Asia, and is so shy, that as new colonies settle it retreats from their observation to the most wild and naked rocks, where it delights to bask itself in the unintercepted rays of the sun. For a larger account of it we refer the reader to the work quoted above, and to other writers on natural history. The skin of one has been presented to the British Museum by Mr. Pennant. Observing Observing in this manner the different kinds of fleeces, which are produced in countries where the domestic animals have undergone the least alteration, and remarking how nearly they correspond with the coats of those which retain their native wildness, we perceive the astonishing effects of cultivation. The celebrated burdens borne by the sheep of Spain, Persia and Cashmire, were, doubtless, in their ori- ginal state, as coarse and hairy as those which are now produced on the wastes of Tartary, or among the morasses of Siberia. It is probable that in most, if not all these countries, the race which now inhabits them is a breed imported from some neighbouring region. But history, which is always defective in the narrative of rural affairs, is not sufficiently explicit to enable us, at this distant period, even to guess at the time when they were first introduced ; nor can we trace from it the different stages of their improve- ment. Those of Spain, probably, were brought from the opposite coast of Africa ; and England is undoubtedly indebted for the flocks, which adorn her pastures, to various parts of the Continent. It seems, however, from hints casually thrown out by early writers, and by circumstances which exist in many parts of the East, that the sheep were at first intirefy of a black colour, or very nearly approaching to it. This was most certainly the case with the flock of Laban, the first of which we have a particular account, even by the earliest historian. His shepherd and son-in-law was, in that day, the most scientific of breeders, and knew not only how to multiply his sheep in a larger proportion than was then common, but was well acquainted with the art of preserving any acci- dental varietjq which might contribute to his own wealth. Q2 wealth, and the advantage of society. The altera- tion seems to have taken place very gradually in the southern parts of Europe ; for it had not reached its western side until a very late period. So slowly were agricultural improvements adopted in these ages, that no less than eighteen centuries passed away while it travelled from Syria to Spain ; and the most ready way by which it could proceed was through the nor- thern kingdoms of Africa, for there it met with the speediest reception, and the fewest obstacles to its progress ! At what period this alteration in the co- lour of wool established itself in Greece I know not, and leave it for those to determine who are better ac- quainted with the early state of that country ; but if it had not taken place before the Argonautic expedi- tion, may it not be conjectured that the celebrated golden fleece bears some allusion to the yellowness / which the yolk generally gives to white fleeces be- fore they are washed ? Certain it is, however, that the amelioration of the flocks has always been closely connected with the progress of the arts, and of civilization ; for we uniformly find, in countries where these have flourish- ed, a race of sheep which yield wool much superior to that which we And all around them. Where the best blessings of social life have been but little culti- vated, we sometimes meet with the strong and shy argali, which bounds before its hunters, anxious for those recesses which never were imprinted with the human footstep. But where the mattock of agricul- ture turns the soil, the goat, and its kindred sheep, little differing from each other in their shape or their fleece, croud around the tent of the herdsman, and demand that care which is necessary to their subsist- ence. 23 ence. Such coarse animals as these, which even afe present wander over the plains of old Scythia, are the strongest proof that they have never been cheered and invigorated by the sunshine of science. But in other countries, beyond the Alps for instance, we notice the descendants of a race which flourished in the better days of Borne. In Turkey, even under its present mental degradation, we trace the vestiges of flocks which once spread over the plains of Ar- cadia, the delight of their shepherd, and the subject of bis song. In Syria and Persia, the influence of antient manufactures is still visible in the superiority of the fleece which is collected from their folds. Nor is the monument of Lybian luxury less conspicu- ous on the shore of Africa, where we meet with fleeces not unworthy of European envy. Perhaps also it may not be destitute of foundation if we con- jecture that the acknowledged superiority of the wool of Taurida was derived from the early establish- ment of the Grecian colonies, and from the fostering care of those sent out in later times from Venice and Genoa, which diffused, through that delightful coun- try, taste wealth and luxury. The hills of Spain also could notboast of their well attenuated pile, untill the country rose into eminence for knowledge, and com- mercial spirit ; nor have we reason to think that she has improved it since the period when she disturbed her manufacturers, and despised their employment. The most prosperous days of Britain, we trust, are still to come, when the ingenuity and spirit which she displays shall have compleated that improvement of of her flocks, which was begun almost seven centuries ago, and which, with respect to one class of her fleeces, gave her a long pre-eminence above her rivals 4 24 rivals. A change in the seat of manufactures, an al- teration in fashions, the interruption of the usual channels of commerce, and the impolitic laws which have been passed in order to secure it, for a time checked her progress, and disheartened her husband- men. But, fortunately, their spirit is again revived, and extends itself, with additional energy, both to the long wool and the short. Let not the recollection of former disappointment damp your ardour, or lead you to depasture the richer plains, which you cultivate, with a woolless sheep, or even with one which is too light for the soil. Manufactures, if worth pursuing, must ultimately reimburse you. Let both kinds of wool receive a due proportion of your regard, and proceed with an equal and unimpeded step towards compleat perfection. Then if the period should ar- rive, may it be very far distant, when strangers shall contemplate the symmetry of British flocks, and the ex- treme beauty and utility of their fleece, they shall be- hold one of the least changing monuments of departed glory, and confess to what an elevated pitch of re- finement and of science you had attained. Perhaps the furs ol other quadrupeds are not so susceptible of improvement as that of the sheep, or this species, it is probable, would not have been the only one selected as the object of culture. Experi- ments, however, are wanting to decide the question ; and it behoves us to hold our judgment in suspence, for I recollect no instances in which the trial has been made, except in the most casual and imperfect form. Yet if it be fair to reason from the effects which take place upon the coats of our cattle and our horses b}' attention and cleanliness, and also by a judicious selection of the male and female parent, we are in- clined 25 dined to suppose that every kind of fur may be ren- dered either beautiful or useful to a degree yet un- thought of. A pursuit of this kind would be Very impolitic in a country where land is valuable, and im- portant manufactures already established, if we could suppose that it would occupy the attention of farmers in general. Their time and their ingenuity is much better applied to the raising of materials, for which there is already a demand, and where their success is certain. But the parks of our nobility, and the lawns of our wealthier graziers, might, very proper- ly, become the theatres of experiments, where all the useful combinations of stock might be exhibited, and the alterations which it is possible to produce in the carcase or its covering minutely displayed. To the honour of the age, this is in some good measure the case. But the system might be extended with advantage, and we should soon find that the more the attempts at improvement were multiplied, so much the more rapidly, and certainly, would the country derive information, and adopt what appears to be of decided importance. In such places, and under such influence, there can be no reason to dread the contemptuous smile of ignorance and folly, nor can there be danger of misapplying that industry upon which a family depends. If it be possible to produce a beneficial alteration in the furs of animals in general, there seems noreason to set bounds to our conjectures ; and it would certainly be an important point gained, if the same animal which we rear for food could be formed to till the soil, and yeild from its sides an annual tribute to its owner. It must be long, we are well aware, before the common beeves of our country could be made to ' do 26 do so, even if it were possible to effect it ; but there are cattle, enumerated b}^ Dr. Anderson, and de- scribed with his usual candour, ingenuity, and judg- ment, which claim a larger portion of our attention than they have yet received. SECT. SECTION II. On Cultivated Wool. HP HR domestic sheep is an animal so feeble and de- fenceless, that it depends for its subsistence, almost entirely, upon the care of man, and is never found at great distances from his habitatiop. Left to itself, it becomes the subject of disease, and the prey of more ferocious creatures ; or if these should spare it, its own fleece becomes the abode of insects, which con- tinually nourish themselves with its blood, and de- stroy its constitution. Its enemies indeed are so nu- merous, and constantly at hand, that it has no chance of escaping them. But every sheep of this kind does not produce what we call cultivated wool, although it should re- ceive a considerable share of attention from its shep- herd, and its fleece a casual benefit by the improve- ment of the carcase, such as we find in many parts of the north of Europe, and in some districts of Asia. We include, under this general description, only that class of fleeces, which have at one time constituted a distinct object of the grower’s attention ; and which have received from it some degree of alteration. In some cases, the grower’s care has been long since re- c laxed 3 28 laxed, and perhaps the quality of his wool may have degenerated several degrees ; yet there are few, I be- lieve, in which it has lost all the benefit of his regard, and returned entirely to its original condition. An idea of what we mean by the original state of wool will be formed by those who have perused the preceding section, much more precisely than if we were to attempt an accurate definition of it. They will observe, that we do not think it necessary to refer to that age when there was no difference in the fleeces of sheep, if we can suppose that such an one ever existed, but that we deem it allowable to consider it as in its primitive state in any country where it is universally neglected, and where we can trace no particular instances of improvement. Such is the wool in Iceland, Guinea, and Siberia, although in each country it differs very materially from that which is produced in the others* To trace all the alterations which the substance has undergone, is in this age utterly impossible, nor does my acquaintance with ancient history permit me to be positive as to the period when they were successive^ introduced into different parts of the civilized world. We must satisfy ourselves with mentioning some circumstances, which appear to have had a considerable influence in promoting its improvement, hoping that some literary gentleman will, at a future time, condense the information which is scattered through the ancient writings, and gratify the public curiosity upon a subject so interesting. The laniferous animals were very early diffused over the western parts of Asia ; the time, when they were introduced into Europe, is too remote to come within the range of authentic history. At first probably 29 probably they were domesticated for the sake of their milk, t lie common nutriment even now of most pastoral nations. But this was not long the sole ob- ject of their owner’s care, for he soon found that their skins also were capable of contributing very materially to his comfort, especially in damp situa- tions and mountainous countries. In this state of society, sheep and goats appear to have been thought of nearly equal value ; and, if there was any prefer- ence, it was given to the latter animal. Perhaps the amelioration of the fleece, like the improvements of mankind in most of the useful arts, was less the result of design than of accident ; and if the Argali were really the parent of the domestic sheep, it must have advanced considerably before we have a particular account of its changes. The first flock, which is minutely described, was found about seventeen hundred and sixty years before the Chris* tian sera, in Mesopotamia, or that part of Persia which lies between the rivers Euphrates and Tigris. It was perfectly domesticated, consisting both of goats and sbeep, the former of which were black, and the latter a brown colour, a circumstance which proves that it had undergone less alteration than might have been expected. The state of the flock excited no surprize in the mind of a traveller, who had gone thither from Syria, which it probably would have done, had it not been familiar to him in his own country ; and appears to intimate that black and brown were the usual colours of these animals throughout the extent of both countries. In his na- tive land, moreover, he bad superintended the de- scendants of flocks and of herds, which, about a hundred and fifty years before, were brought out of C 2 ' Egypt ; 30 Egypt ; and, if these continued to be of a dark and clingy hue, it is more than probable that their proge- nitors were of no other colour, and that the flocks of the then known world were, in this respect, nearly similar. During his residence in a foreign land, he continued the orofession of a shepherd, and produc- ed little or no alteration in the colour of his fleeces for the space of fourteen years. At the end of this term, the capricious temper of his master induced one to offer, and the other to accept, as the reward of continued service, that portion of the flocks which had anv white in them, and those lambs and kids which should be produced with a mottled coat, whe- ther their dams were like themselves, or of one uni- form colour. As a skilful breeder, he took proper measures to produce a ring streaked and spotted race ; while, as one determined to enrich himself, he concealed the superiority of his knowledge, and the means which he adopted. From this apparently tri- vial circumstance arose that entire change in the breed of the flocks, which was first witnessed in the eastern world, and which is known to have established itself, at successive periods, in the western. It was not owing to the demands of manufactures, nor even to the volatility of taste ; but is one of those numerous circumstances in human affairs, which history often hints at but never pursues, although they are found to have an influence upon all succeeding generations. This new variety of flocks soon established itself in the country where it was produced, and gra- dually diffused itself southwards, as far as the desart of Arabia, so that in the space of three hundred years, its tvhiteness had become proverbial. Indeed the colour of the fleece must have been particularly attended SI attended to, and have attained a high degree of ex- cellency, for a devout poet of that age, in the subli- mity of his description, compares it to the snow ; and an amorous one, shortly afterwards, asserts that the teeth of his swarthy mistress were like a dock of sheep new from the washing ; and although in these cases we may be disposed to make allowance for the fancy of the poet, and the strength of eastern comparisons, yet we cannot but suppose that the beauty of the fleece gave some propriety to the simile, and delica- cy to the compliment. In the desart, where people were less associated, and the influence of wealth and taste less prevalent, the sheep perhaps retained their original colour for nearly five centuries longer. Another striking instance of the slow progress of agricultural improvements, especially among people who adopt a wandering and unsettled mode of life. This alteration in the colour of wool evidently took the line of the richest soils, and spread its in- fluence most readity through countries where the arts of husbandry had made the greatest progress, but seldom passed their boundaries. From Persia, de- scending the Euphrates, and passing over the richer countries of Syria, it reached the borders of the Nile. But it is unreasonable to suppose, that it proceeded only in that direction. If it extended itself north- ward, and ascended the river, it must soon have reached the banks of the Phasis, and have been spread through the old kingdom of Colchis. In later ages, as we have already conjectured, it passed frem thence into Greece. When it was found possible to procure a white kind of wool, the taste of the world appears to have been favourable to its production \ otherwise it must C 3 soon 32 soon Lave degenerated to its primitive colour. How it comes to pass that this taste existed, and even con- tinues to display itself in most nations where wool is produced in any shape, we have no need to enquire ; the fact is sufficiently obvious, and certainly had some influence in promoting its culture, both in the earlier and later ages. And when we investigate the causes which have contributed to the improvement of our flocks, we ought not entirely to overlook it. The su- perior cheerfulness which sheep and goats, with white fleeces, communicate to rural scenery, the cleanli- ness which wool of that description is calculated to promote, when used as an article of furniture or dress, and above all the greater variety and vividness of the artificial tints with which it may be imbued, which always gratifies the taste for gaudy trappings, so common among the ruder nations, have doubtless conspired, in some good measure, to render it more valuable than that, which was remarkable only for its brown and dusky appearance. Among a people, however, whose possessions and comforts are almost equally distributed, the influence of taste must be small, when compared with that which results from their absolute w’ants. As an arti- cle of clothing, the furs of animals were soon adopt- ed, and the skins of sheep, among those of other beasts, were worn without distinction, but became more common as flocks became more numerous, and the wilder animals were extirpated. In this state of society, that kind of fur would be sought after which was best suited to the climate and the condition of the people. The two chief requisites were most cer- tainly a proper degree of warmth, which was essentially necessary to the comfort and health of the wearer. 83 wearer, and that adhesion of the pile to tlie pelt which would render the garment more durable. The tendency of some sheep to cast their coat at one sea- son of the year would render those skins less valua- ble which were procured in the height of summer ; and if it were possible to produce those which might retain their pile with equal firmness through every variation of the heat, one considerable object would be gained. In some of the northern regions, and those of lower latitudes where the temperature is irregular and uncertain, and if no artificial altera- tion has been produced, we find a kind of shaggy coated sheep, whose fleeces are attached to them with a great degree of firmness. In the warmer regions so many changes have succeeded each other, and so little has been said of the particular kind of wool which they formerly produced, that it is impossible to ascertain its peculiar qualities ; yet we cannot sup- pose that the state of society would have less influ- ence upon it there, than we have reason to think it had in other countries, from whence better accounts have reached us. So long as the skins of the sheep, dressed with the wool on, were used for domestic purposes, it is obvious that only one fleece could be obtained from the animal ; and that if its coat detached itself every succeeding summer through which it Jived, there must be an immense waste of its produce. Happily, however, it was soon observed that even the detached fleece, by means of moisture arid pressure, might be made to produce a compact and pliable substance, equally applicable to the common purposes of life, quite as durable, more convenient, and more elegant than the skins were which had been formerly used. This 3 4 This appears to have been the first effort of genius to produce a woollen manufacture ; and when the proper- ty upon which it depends was once applied to this purpose, the knowledge of the art was widely diffus- ed. The tents of the Arabs, the T urcomans, and the Tartars, all of which are made of felt, manufactured from the wool of sheep, mingled with the hair of goats, camels and other quadrupeds, are probably the remains of it ; and these, together with the taste for that kind of substance, which even at present pre- vails in Persia and other Eastern countries, manifest how permanently customs and habits establish them- selves and triumph over the revolutions of empires and of mind. The discovery of such a valuable pro- perty in wool as the felting quality, must greatly have increased the value of every kind of hair which was found to possess it ; and by promoting the comforts of society, it contributed to the amelioration of the fleece. So soon as men exchanged a wandering life for one that was more settled, and congregated in towns, their new mode of living gave rise to new wants and other habits, and ingenuity was exercised to supply their demands. In Egypt they attended to the culti- vation of flax, and soon attained a great degree of proficiency in its manufacture. In that country, the arts of spinning and weaving were firstinvented, and probably employed in the fabrication of that fine linen which was so justly celebrated. But when they were first introduced into the woollen manufac- ture is by no means certain. About the year fourteen hundred and ninety before the vulgar rera, we observe them in Arabia, under circumstances which intimate that 35 that they had not been long known there ; perhaps introduced by a wandering people who had lately left the borders of the Nile, and were finally settled upon those of the Jordan. There are hints, it is true, which might lead us to suppose that they had been adopted in the land of Canaan, and the country of Uz, more than four hundred years earlier, but when the expressions are carefully examined, they appear rather the proverbs of the historian’s day than those of that age whose events he was relating. At whatsoever periods these arts were invented, and ap- plied to general use, it is certain that, when first mentioned, the garments composed of both a warp and a woof were the common dress of those coun- tries, which lie at the eastern extremity of the Medi- terranean sea, and that flocks which produced the raw material had undergone a considerable alteration. We hear much less respecting goats in this than in the preceding ages. The reason of general taste for woollen clothing, upon which the effects of the loom and the shuttle had been employed, is very easily dis- coverable in the superior pliability of that substance, and the more convenient shapes which it may be made to assume. Among its benefits we enumerate the readiness with which it could be fabricated in every family, the taste which might be displayed in its texture, the quantity of employment which it furnishes, and the stimulus which it gave to inge- nuity and exertion, by diffusing a spirit of competi- tion among the people. The value of the manufac- ture is evident from the comfort which it diffused in the country where the art of weaving was first in- yented, by the wealth which it collected there, and the superior polish and influence which it gave to the inhabitants. 36 inhabitants, from its gradual adoption in neigh- bouring countries, and the alteration which it pro- duced in the dispositions, the activity, and the pur- suits of man, and above all, from its existence in modern ages, in every country, and throughout all changes. While the woollen manufacture was thus enlargr- O ing its influence, and producing a proportionate effect upon the raw material, it derived considerable advantage from the invention and the improvement of those instruments which were adopted by its ar- tists to aid their efforts, and to shorten their labours. After the arts of spinning and weaving were intro- duced, it was impossible to work without the assist- ance of some kind of machinery ; but the distaff and the loom, in their first form, were little more in the hands of the manufacturer, than the spade in those of the husbandman. Spinning and weaving, as we have already observed, were in use at least fifteen hundred years before the sera of common reckoning, but the manner in which they were performed is not related until about three centuries afterwards. Then the loom consisted of a frame of wood, in some respect different from the modern one, but well adapted to the same purposes. The alterations, which have been made in it, consist perhaps more in the position of the beam, and the mode of opening the web for the pas- sage of the shuttle, than in any other circumstance. Nor was the earliest mode of spinning less perfect than that'which was practised in the most celebrated manufacturing countries for many ages afterwards. It was performed by means of a rod or staff, about which the wool to be spun was carefully wrapped, and held in the left hand, while a rough kind of spin- dle, 37 die, quickly twirled betwixt the right hand and the thigh, was suffered to continue its motion when sus- pended by the thread, which the artist gradually lengthened with her fingers. This least complex of spinning machines is not entirely laid aside even now. A few years since it was not uncommon in the coun- ty of Norfolk, and its continuance in use through so many ages is the best proof of its excellency. Re- specting the mode of preparing the wool for this ma- chine, in the first stages of the manufacture, we have met with no information ; probably before the intro- duction of the card, it was performed either by the fingers or the thistle, which, with its rough and hooked awn*, was admirably adapted to the purpose, and has continued in use, with a similar view, to the pre- sent hour. Rut the invention of implements adapted t© agriculture and manufactures is seldom mentioned in the records of time. Their introduction has gene- * A gentleman, distinguished for his knowledge of bota- ny, informs me, that “ the Fuller’s teasel, Dipsacus fullonum, was called a thistle, Carduus, by the older botanists, on ac- count of its prickly nature and general appearance ; but is now known to differ essentially from plants of that genus, in many botanical characters. It is at this day called Cardere in French, and aptly denotes the use to which it ha? long been applied. That part of the structure, which has recommended it to the notice of the woollen manufacturers, is the singular hooked awn, or spinous termination of the scales of the recep- tacle, which separate the florets of the general capitulum, or head. It was considered by Linnaeus as merely a variety of the Dipsacus sylvestris, or wild teasel, common on ditch banks, and waste places on the borders of fields, in many parts of England ; and which differs from it chiefly, if not solely, in having the termination of the scales perfectly straight, and therefore unfit for the purposes of the manufac- turer. rally 38 rally been slow and unperceived ; or if conveyed to us by tradition, the accounts of them are so mingled with conjecture, that it is not always wise to credit them. This remark is scarcely better exemplified than in the instances of the card, the comb, and the spinning wheel, which have been applied to the ma- nufacture of woollens, perhaps at different periods of its history, with a degree of silence which throws con- siderable doubt upon the time of their introduction. Probably the first of them was a substitute for the Roman carduus or teasel, and as is most natural to conjecture, was used before that empire had suffered the total subversion of order and of science. But the name of its inventor, the time when he lived, and the place where he practised the art which he improved, are not conveyed to us even by the vague whispers of tradition. The comb, another instrument well known and in common use, is said, according to vul- gar report, to have been invented b} T Bishop Blaise, to have been used by him in Alderney, conveyed from thence to Flanders, and afterwards to England. Probably the latter part of the account may be cor- rect, but we greatly doubt whether the Bishop is en- titled to the honour of the invention. Perhaps it was not known until after his days as an instrument ap- plied to the manufacture of wool, nor does it appear that he was Bishop of Alderney. lie lived in Ar- menia, was raised to the episcopal dignity about the time of Dioclesian, and suffered martyrdom under that merciless tyrant. Before he was beheaded, he endured great torture by means of iron combs, with which his flesh was torn ; and hence, when an instru- ment of that kind was brought into common use among the workmen, they chose him for their patron saint. 39 saint, but without any reference to the inventor* The application of the wheel to the spindle, for the purpose of spinning, is likewise unnoticed in any history which has fallen into our hands. Had it taken place so early as the Catharine who was first canno- nized, it would probably have been more generally adopted in the early ages of the revived manufac- tures*, Perhaps here also, when the instrument was generally adopted in the Low Countries, those who used it, according to the custom of the times, chose for themselves a patron saint, and selected Catharine, because she had suffered upon the wheel. But though we know so little of the early introduction of these instruments, yet when actually applied, their in- fluence in promoting the manufacture and the cul- ture of wool, was no less certain and efficacious than if they had been announced in the most pompous lan- guage, and the memory of their inventors celebrated from year to year. They imperceptibly improved the raw material, by rendering it better adapted to their own operation. Among the collateral arts which sprung up with the manufacture of woollens, which derived from it aid, and afforded reciprocal assistance, that of giving to substances an artificial colouring, was one of the most considerable. Dying was practised in an early age, and without doubt was promoted by the taste for showy attire, which is so common among the ruder nations, and which scarcely can be thought to have had less influence in the early ages than in the present. Blue, purple and scarlet were the tints most admired ; and though the ingredients, by means of which they were produced, are in some measure unknown, yet we have the most indubitable D testimonies 40 testimonies to their excellency, and the estimation in which they were held. To produce them in their richest lustre a selection of the wool most adapted to receive them must be made, and this would operate with great precision upon the sorter’s attention, al- though it might more slowly arouse the shepherd’s care. In a succession of ages, however, its effects upon the fleece could not be inconsiderable. While the manufacture of wool was confined to the houses of the grower, and the business of it trans- acted by his domestics in a secluded manner, there was less room for the stimulation and exercise of -ge- nius than in after ages, when it became the appropri- ate calling of one particular part of the community, and their success depended upon the opinion which others formed of the fabric. Yet in the simplest days of Greece it was not deemed an employment unsuit- able to palaces, nor did a princess degrade her dig- nity by superintending the labours of the loom, the distaff* and the dying vat. It was in such occupa- tions that she contended for the prize of fame, and often with her own fingers drew the lengthened thread, or conducted it through the dividing web, happy to form a more splendid, a finer, or richer gar- ment than her rivals could. By such innocent com- petition the} 7 produced the most salutary effects upon the workmanship of each other, the classes immedi- ately below them, and upon the fleeces of their coun- try. Doubtless they were at first compelled to exert their ingenuity upon imperfect materials ; to attempt the production of soft and attenuated threads, like those which they saw in the linens of Egypt, from coarse and elastic wool, to give the beauteous colour- ing of the several flowers to dark and dingy fleeces. Under 41 Under such disadvantages, and excited by an almost unbounded spirit of emulation to display their taste, and gratify the vanity of their masters, the golden fleece of Cholehis must have appeared to them a trea- sure sufficiently valuable to become in part the object of a voyage full of dangers, and to be celebrated in the songs of Orpheus. Perhaps the intrepid adven- turers, who went to seek it, did not return with the living sheep ; nor were they to be procured in these early days by the individual exertions of commerce. After the manufacture had obtained that degree of perfection which we have observed in the East, it received no very considerable and general improve- ment during many ages. It continued to diffuse it- self* indeed, more widely along both shores of the Mediterranean, and by improving the flocks in its progress, bestowed comfort upon the people. It would be tedious to follow it from Greece into Italy, to observe its establishment in Rome, and its progress with the arms of that mighty empire, through Gaul to Britain, and to Spain. In Persia, -where the domi- nion of luxury was most absolute, after that the ma- nufacture of woollens had been generally adopted, the materials were produced in the most perfect form, and the workmanship obtained a degree of ex- cellency beyond the competition of rivals. But after the dissolution of that empire, of the Macedonian monarchy, and especially in still later days, when the Saracens, with more than brutal ignorance, like a swelling torrent, had** overflowed the country, and borne down what remained of its best distinctions, wealth, and luxury, and enterprise fled from their ancient seats, and manufactures assumed the pallid hue of contagion. The ruins of these celebrated fa- D 2 brics 42 brics are yet conspicuous, and astonish the reflecting mind as greatly as the proportioned pillar, the sculp- tured wall, and the widely scattered fragments of Balbec, of Palmyra, or Persepolis, do the eye of the wondering traveller. The introduction of the woollen manufacture into the different countries of Europe, has been attended with circumstances much more similar than might have been expected. It always followed the increase of wealth, and the exertion of the human faculties, the promotion of taste, learning, and luxury. It commonly followed the progress of the Roman ar- mies, when they passed through a country less civiliz- ed than Italy, and continued to extend its influence until the capitol tottered to its foundation, and bar- barians sacked the provinces. At that eventful pe- riod, the artisan driven from his loom, and the hus- bandman from the quiet culture of the field, sought to forget in solitude the oppression which had al- ready fallen upon the cities, and must soon extend its influence to the loneliest retreat. Then the hu- man faculties, destitute of stimulus, lost their vigour, and were no longer employed to render social life either elegant or pleasing. Every one sought only what was essential to his existence, and bore with sullen apathy the privation of those comforts to which he had been accustomed. The presence of the Vandal, utterly unacquainted with the enjoy- ment connected with refined manners, soon convert- ed the busy towns which he had subdued into haunts of ignorance, brutality and rapine, and their once cultivated districts into barren wastes or widely ex- tended forests, where the bear and the wolf, or men of character more ferocious than either of them, roaqaed roamed in search of prey. In circumstances like these, the subsistence of the farmer was most preca- rious. His herds and. his flocks grazed only by suf- ferance. And when tyranny had reached utmost its height, the man himself was claimed as the indubita- ble property of a master who had marked the boun- daries of his estate with the point of his sword, and Avho disposed of the fate of his inferior vassals almost as he pleased. Such oppression, it is true, could not destroy the existence of the fleece, nor render the sheep naturally incapable of producing wool of the same quality as it had done in former years. But it rendered the pasture where the animal fed less fer- tile, and the herbage it cropped more scanty. It was the means of converting the once appropriated plains into barren heaths, where the woolly tribe wan- dered promiscuously, and propagated the species without selection. ’Tis not possible to say how far the sheep degenerated, but he who supposes that it could improve either in its shape or its fleece, must be extremely ignorant of rural concerns. He must have forgotten, that all agricultural improvement de- pends upon a free a spirited and happy peasantry ; that whensoever they are rendered careless and su- pine, the best formed schemes of their superiors to advance the interest of their own estates, and their country’s welfare, will prove abortive. The barba- rian chiefs, however, in the eighth century, were not acquainted with this political axiom, and their op- pression continued, in many parts of Europe, through- out almost five hundred years. Yet these ages of darkness, as they have been fre- quently called, did not totally destroy that spirit of enterprise which had been previously excited. Ve- D 3 nice 44 nice arose out of the ashes of Rome, being selected by a few of the fugitives from that inhuman enemy of mankind who had been justly stiled the “ Scourge of God,” as a situation too obscure or too contempti- ble for his notice, and maintained the connection be- tween Italy and the East. This city, together with Pisa, Florence, and Genoa, instituted the manufac- ture of woollens, and soon became celebrated from their success in the arts, and in commerce, while their example, their wealth, and the consequent de- mands of luxury, operated most favourably upon the husbandman and the shepherd. But had they been less jealous of each others rivalship ; had their flocks never been disturbed by the din of arms, nor driven from the plundered fold to feed the encamped batta- lions ; had they united with ardour in the prosecu- tion of that commerce, which one could not mono- polize, and which was sufficient for the employment of all, they must have become strong in union, and rich without a rival. Their manufactures would have been more firmly established, and more widely dispersed, and perhaps they would have remained much longer the emporia of the world. While these manufactures continued, their influence was very considerable, and they promoted improvements, whose effects upon the fertile soil are still perceptible. In general, the wools of northern Italy, either from the superior culture which they received under the Ro- man government, or that which was given to them by the succeeding republics, or perhaps because there was less time for them to degenerate, are in a better condition than those which w r e meet with on the other side of the Alpine mountains. In pursuing the influence of manufactures upon the 4 5 the folds in the other parts of Europe, we find no- thing extraordinary, from the fall of the western em- pire until the conquest of Spain by the Moors. Be- fore that event, which occurred about the year seven hundred and thirteen, the flocks of that country were very much neglected ; but these industrious people soon introduced the improved sheep of Africa, and established the woollen manufacture upon broad and useful principles, contributing to the wealth and the power of the districts which they had conquered. How far they might have pushed these improve- ments, had they not been harrassed by the Christians, who continually gained ground upon their invaders, is uncertain ; but it is remarkable that the wool of Spain was used in England for the fabrication of fine cloths so early as the twelfth century, and was, no doubt, superior to the native produce. If this ame- lioration was really the effect of Moorish industry, and if it was not partly owing to the superior quality of the fleeces which were produced in Spain before the conquerors arrived there, it is one of the most asto- nishing alterations which we meet with in modern agriculture, and a striking instance of the effect of manufacture. But this influence, in whatever de- gree it exist d, was greatly impaired when the Ca- tholicism of her princes compelled the industrious African to leave the soil which he had so greatly contributed to enrich, and to Garry back with him the arts which he had practised with so much success*; anci this too at a period when the population was di- minished by that thirst for gold which had drawn the natives in crowds across the ocean ; when the de- mand for the fabrics was becoming more clamorous by the establishment of colonies ; and when the Spa- niard^, 46 niartl, by the influx of the precious metals, was ren- dered too haughty and too indolent to practise the humble and laborious duties of the field and the workshop. Since that time, we have no reason to think that Spain has greatly improved her flocks, or increased their numbers ; for besides providing for a large internal consumption, which was lessened by the expulsion of the Moors, she exported a conside- rable surplus of her wool to Flanders and to England, and its quality was such as to ensure a market in either country. The laws of the Mesta, i. e. those by which her wandering flocks are regulated, have not contributed to their improvement so much as has generally been supposed. The utmost that could reasonably be expected from them was the preven- tion ofthe sheep mingling with those of an inferior kind ; and they are such as could be endured only in a most wretched country, a miserable substitute for agricul- tural energv. But the fifteenth century did not by any means compleat the wretchedness of this ill-fated people. It was reserved for the seventeenth to give the decisive blow to the manufactures and their in- fluence, by the extermination ofthe workmen, with a degree of inhumanity which can be attributed only to long fostered rancour, inflamed by religious zeal. If any improvement of her wool can be expected now from Spain, it must be derived, not from her ma- nufactures, although exertions have been made to re- vive them, but from her connections with other coun- tries, and a desire to supply them with an unrivalled article. The operation of this principle must always be feeble, and perpetually exposed to obstruction, when it is perceived that others are treading fast upon her heels, and are almost ready to bear away the 47 the palm, A disheartened competitor, tvho depends upon the export of a commodity which is produced by every country around him, and who already feels that the superiority of his own is of a doubtful na- ture, may be expected to resign the contest without any violent struggles, and relax his attention to an object the demand for which rests principally upon the exertion of foreign manufacturers, and the scan- tiness of that supply which they yet procure from other nations. The art of producing from the fleece a warm and substantial clothing was never lost, even during the darkest days of ignorance. It began to revive, and became the separate occupation of one class of the community, about the middle of the tenth century in the Low Countries, where it remained the glory of the people, and the source of their opulence, through more than four hundred years. The wool which it consumed, for the first few years was the produce of their own pastures, which had but lately been re- claimed from the forest ; but as the manufacture ex- tended itself, the demands became larger, and were supplied from a greater distance. The wealth which it distributed was soon visible, and people crouded into the country, engaged in its commerce, and pushed their speculations with encreasing vigour through a hundred and fifty years, when an inunda- tion of the sea threatened to involve the art, the ar- tist, and the country in one general destruction. The dispersion of the people, who fled from the calamity which appeared to overwhelm their hopes, instead of destroying the infant manufacture, gave it additional vigour, and was the means of establishing a con- nection between the Netherlands and foreign coun- tries. 48 tries, which proved of the highest importance to commerce. It contributed to a much more speedy recovery of the arts connected with the woollen manufacture from the ruin which seemed to threaten them, and gave a striking instance of their partiality for the seats where they have once flourish- ed, under the patronage of a government liberal enough to encourage, and sufficiently powerful to protect them, even though the places should be at- tended with great natural disadvantages. The influ- ence of these manufactures upon the fleeces of the Low Countries must have been very considerable, for before the year nine hundred and sixty we have no reason to suppose that their quality was superior to that which we find in the neighbouring districts ; yet it was not very long ere Flanders and Brabant became famous for the manufacture of fine cloths, even at a period when they imported but little foreign wool. Perhaps the fabrics might not be equal to those which we now produce from the fleeces of Spain, or even from the improved ones of our own sheep, but they were preferable to those of England and the nations of the continent, Italy and Spain ex- cepted. It was about the year twelve hundred that the merchants began to import the wools of other cli- mates, to extend their connections much more wide- ly, and to grow, by this means, still more rich and powerful. The manufactures had required a larger quantity of the raw material than usual, and the po- pulation of the country had reached that degree which does not admit of a great number of sheep being kept, even though the employment of the people depend upon the fleeces, and their subsist- ence upon the food which they furnish. We shall observe instances of a similar kind, when we treat more 49 r e , PartiCU,arl ^ of E "g Ia " d - The operation of the=e two causes was evidently sufficient to induce the manufacturer to go farther from home, and to seek the most convenient methods of supplying his have t' • Vj ght baYe been ex P ected ‘hat he vfould e turned his attention to France and to Germany • but independent of the hostile dispositions of some or the neighbouring sovereigns, the raw material was too bulky to be conveyed, at an easy expence, through the bad roads of a half cultivated country- and theships of Spain and of Britain, who found an ini terest m supply, ng the wants of the Netherlands, un- laded the.r cargoes almost at his very door, and soli- cited m payment but little else than the goods which ie had manufactured. Hence we perceive the rea- son why these flourishing woollen manufactures had so little effect upon the fleeces which were produced on the continent, while they influenced most power- fully those of England; for the merchants of the staple would prefer that kind of fleece, which was best adapted to the wants of his foreign correspondent, and found the readiest sale abroad. It could scarcely be expected that a people so conversant with marl- |t.me affairs as the English were, and who possessed so much spirit for commerce as thev did, should lone pursue a traffic in raw materials produced within their own is and, without endeavouring to promote the manufacture of them at home. In fact, they be- came the successful rivals of their former customers, which tT l ° * hei j ° Wn P° rts t!lat commerce which had hitherto found its way to those of Flan- ders, and soon exported a considerable quantity of those very articles to the Netherlands, which thev had once drawn from thence. Unfortunately, at that time, the 50 the resources of the manufactures of the Low Coun- tries failed them, the work people were disturbed, and the population considerably diminished ; the plough again took the precedence of the shuttle, and their fields, instead of being thronged with men, were again more thickly studded with the flocks of sheep. But they were of a race very different from those, which had formerly adorned their plains and contri- buted to the renown of the fine cloths which had been the source of their affluence, and the envy of rivals. They exchanged their stock for sheep of a longer staple, whose pile was better adapted to the manufac- ture of worsted goods, and every species of the new drapery. In this line, the artisan had fewer compe- titors; and as the demand increased beyond all reason- able calculation, it was attended with profit which most amply repaid the labours of genius, and induc- ed the manufacturers again to seek in' England the supplies of their looms. But as a different kind of wool was necessary to promote the new species of manufacture, they could procure it from few other places than the marshes of Kent and Lincoln, and the low track which lies near the mouth of the Hum- ber. From these places they were in some measure supplied, and there the influence of the new fabrics w as most sensibly perceived. The kind of sheep, which was then encouraged, has been preserved ever since, and bears some affinity to those which were reared on the other side of the water, whose descend- ants have been emphatically stiled the flower of Flanders. From the middle of the fifteenth century, when the woollen manufactures of Brabant, and the Nether- lands in general declined, chiefly owing to the turbu- lence Si lence of the people, the impolitic restrictions which were laid upon the trade, and to religious persecu- tions, the workmen withdrew to Holland, Germany, France, and England, where they were received with hospitality, and contributed, by their knowledge and connections, to promote that rivalry which proved fatal to their native country. In Britain they were treated with great attention, and in return established those works which have so long benefited, and at pre- sent enrich the country. The fabrication of woollens was introduced into Britain by the Romans, Avho not only taught their rude subjects the art of weaving, but succeeded so far as to induce them to exchange the skins in which they had hitherto been clothed, for the more comfort- able attire of their conquerors. They established a manufacture at Winchester, so extensive as to sup- ply the Roman army ; and it cannot be supposed, al- though history besilent upon the subject, that it should either be confined entirely to that city, or easily aban- doned byRiat people, so long as they had possession, of the country. It is more probable that as the other arts, which are immediately connected with the com- forts of society, advanced through that whole period, so the knowledge of spinning and weaving would be more widely diffused and generally practised. Per- haps the employment of the loom was not always se- parated from that of the field. He who sometimes directed the shuttle, at others guided the plough, or handled the flail ; and the old Britons, in this respect, resembled the inhabitants of the continent. If the manufacture subsisted under the patronage of the Romans about the space of four hundred years, it is not at all probable that it should be neglected by the E natives •natives after that their friends had left them. Nor is there, that I know of, the most distant hint in the re- cords of history to support such a conjecture. In- deed the silence of historians upon this point, if it prove any thing, shows that the practice of convert- ing wool into cloth was so common as to excite no sur- prise. Improvements could scarcely be made either in the manufacture or in the flocks during the ravages of the Piets, the Saxons and the Danes, for property was then too precarious, and the spirit of the natives too much humbled. But Alfred was born to noble purposes. He subdued the invaders, and recovered his kingdom. He established a strict police, and rendered property secure. He gave encouragement to the arts, by exciting the emulation of his subjects. He had travelled far, and seen the comforts of other countries ; and it is scarcely possible to believe that a person of his sagacity, and who had done so much to promote the welfare of his people, should totally over- look a mode of disposing of their wool most intimate- ly connected with their enjoyment, their health and their civilization. Hence then we have some reason to conclude that through the first nine hundred years cf the Christian sera, the wools of England were not entirely neglected, although it does not appear, from any documents which now remain, that they were in any respects superior to those produced at that time upon the continent. From the prices of wool which are mentioned as the current rate of the fleece, in the early periods of our history, we are induced to think that the article was cultivated with considerable attention. About the year nine hundred and twenty five a fleece was valued at two-fifths of the whole sheep, a proportion much S3 much greater than that which it bears at present, and which shows that either the demand for the carcase was much smaller, or that for the fleece was much more considerable than it is in our own times. The value of the sheep continued nearly the same through several hundred years ; but in eleven hundred and thirty five it declined fifty per cent, while wool afe the same time greatly advanced in price, and conti- nued to do so through the space of two centuries. This was most probably owing to the improvements which it received from culture, and to the increased demand for it at home and abroad. From the obscure hints which remain of these pe- riods, we conjecture that the number of sheep in the kingdom was very inconsiderable ; and the existence of wolves before the reign of Edgar have retarded their increase. But the measures adopted by that prince in nine hundred sixty six to destroy those animals, which are the natural enemies of sheep, ma- nifest a degree of solicitude for the preservation of the flocks, which we could scarcely have expected at a period so early, and were admirably adapted to promote that attention to them, which contributes to their improvement. It appears, however, that the amelioration of the fleece did not keep pace with the inclination of the people for fine cloth. In the reign of Henry II. Spa- nish wool, doubtless on account of its superior excel- lency, was imported and manufactured in this king- dom * but the policy of the age did not long permit it, and the Mayor of London was ordered to burn every piece in which it was found. The statute which enjoined this was framed for the encourage- ment of the British farmer, and the improvement of E 2 his 54 his wool ; yet we cannot think that the principles upon which the measure was adopted were sufficient- ly enlarged even for that day. It tended to destroy that commercial spirit which began to manifest itself, and threw the best of materials into the hands of fo- reigners, who already knew their value, and who soon afterwards supplied even England with the goods which were made from them. About twelve hundred and forty, the importation of fine cloth into England began to be encouraged ; although its effects upon the fleeces of that country, and upon the inter- ests of its farmers, must have been more pernicious than the manufacture of Spanish wool could possibly have been, had not the restless spirit of commerce counteracted the evil tendency, and carried out the surplus of wool which it was calculated to create. This kind of traffic between England and Flanders subsisted about a hundred years, without interrup- tion. But a people, which had displayed so much en- terprise as was observable among the British, could not long continue satisfied with conveying their own produce in an unmanufactured state to others, from ■whom they received it again at a much higher rate. About the year thirteen hundred and thirty, they be- gan seriously to encourage the manufacture of wool- lens among themselves. Conscious of the superior expertness of the Flemings, some of these people were tempted to come over and settle in the country. They taught the natives to exercise the art of trufhu- facturing wool with dexterity equal to their own, and contributed to promote the true interest of the community. This important step being once taken, the sanguine temper of the legislators induced them to suppose that the English fabrics would soon be ex- tensive 55 tensive enough to require all the wool of the king- dom, and in order to anticipate their wants, or per- haps rather to create them, a law was passed totally- prohibiting the exportation of it. The event suffi- ciently manifested how much influence the looms of the Netherlands had exercised over the pastures of England, and how greatly they had contributed to the production and improvement of her fleeces. It shows the folly of attempting to compel the current of commerce to take a new direction, and the ease with which, by gentler means, it may be allured to change its channel. The surplus of wool, from the time of Henry II. down to that of Edward III. appears to have con- stantly increased ; and the exportation as regularly took it off the hands of the grower. But it is not probable that while the demand for fine wools was so great abroad, the stapler should be utterly in- attentive to the quality of that which he sent to mar- ket ; nor while the taste for superior cloths continued at home, that the manufacturer would be careless re- specting the kind which he made use of. Both cir- cumstances contributed to operate upon the grower’s attention, and induced him to prefer those kinds which met with the readiest sale, and procured him the best prices. Accordingly we find, in the southern parts of the island, where the manufacture was most attended to, and from which the largest quantity was exported, that there the flocks are in the best condi- tion, and the quality of the staple most desirable. The growing influence of the foreign trade may be estimated with some degree of accuracy by the quan- tity which it took off at the commencement and the close of the period. In the beginning of the thir- E 3 teenth 56 teenth century, it was probably less than one thou- sand and sixty-eight sacks ; about the year thirteen hundred and forty, it was scarcely less than thirty thousand, each of them weighing three hundred and sixty-four pounds. After the grand experiment which prohibited the exportation of wool had entirely failed, England adopted a much more rational sj stem to promote the interest of her woollen manufactures, and saw them rise by degrees to an importance which she had not calculated ; beheld them diffuse their influence not only over the most fertile parts of her own provinces, but also to the most barren comities, to the pastures of Ireland, and the sheep walks of Spain. She saw the hills of Scotland depastured with an improved breed, and sought a supply of the raw material not only from thence, but also from the circles of Ger- many, the banks of the Tagus, the states of Italy, the islands of the Archipelago, the coasts of Barbary, and even the snowy summits of the Cardilleras. She has taken pains to furnish her parks with the wool- bearing animals of other countries ; has ascertained with care the respective value of each, and has min- gled, with incalculable advantage, the blood of the Negretti with that of her native flocks. Nor are the products of her looms at present confined within nar- row bounds. She disperses them through the greater part of Europe, along the shores of Africa, in the plains of India, to the confines of Persia, to the farthest Tartary, in the empire of China, and upon both continents of America. In the bay of Aboukir her artillery re-opened the passage to the Levant. The measures, which have been adopted to pro- mote the extendon of the manufacture, have not al- ways 57 ways been suggested by wisdom. Sometimes they have disheartened the farmer, and made him careless as to the kind of wool which he produced, and at others have induced him to cultivate that sort which has been least valuable ; seldom have they excited him to try whether he could not supply the looms of his country with a material equal to that which our merchants imported, and have too often draw n from him complaints of the selfish temper of the manufac- turer, and the partiality ot the legislature ; com- plaints which have too great an appearance of justice. Some of the restrictions were most certainly wise so long as the manufacture had powerful and long established rivals to contend w ith ; but became unne- cessary the instant that it took a decided lead in the markets, and hurtful the moment they induced us to seek those supplies from abroad which ought to have been first cultivated at home, and which it is now ascertained might have been produced here. Since the days of Edward III. the state of the woollen ma- nufacture in Britain is totally altered. Then it was necessary to provide a channel by which the annual surplus of our w'ools might be vended ; now it is as absolutely required of us to supply their deficiency. At that period the British fleeces w ere admirably adapt- ed to the kind of cloth w'hich w^as in greatest request ; now they are generally unequal to the production of that which is sought after. Formerly foreigners paid a duty upon the wool w'hich they received from us ; now we as frequently pay one upon that which we require from them. Surely this change in circum- stances demands a corresponding change in legisla- tive prudence. But we must not attribute the success of the woollen 58 woollen manufacture in Britain entirely to the mea- sures which were adopted by the state to promote it, even when governed by wisdom. The improvement of agriculture, and the increase of wealth and popu- lation both at home and in the colonies, contributed to its support in no small degree. The greater ex- tension of trade gave us more celebrity abroad, and induced other nations not only to become our cus- tomers, but to disperse our manufactures through their own connections, and the influence which they possessed in distant countries was of conside- rable service. The influx of wealth into Europe from the mines of Peru, and the commerce of the East Indies, diffused more money among those who purchased our fabrics, and the share of it which was exchanged for them encouraged both our mer- chants and manufacturers. Even the calamities which have befallen other countries, through the dis- pensations of Providence have contributed to the welfare of our own. Thus when the plague prevail- ed in the south of France, when the Moors were in- humanly extirpated from Spain, when the Due d’ Alva ravaged the plains of Flanders, when the Edict of Nantes was revoked and the confidence of protes- tants failed them, the manufactures of England were promoted and triumphed by the fall of rivals. In later years the genius of our countrymen has contributed to give permanency to our manufactures, and to extend them more widely than any cir- cumstance which is noticed in commercial history. The combination of the mechanical powers in the machines of Arkwright, and the application of elastic fluids for the purpose of producing motion in the im- proved steam engine of Watt, have given us a degree S9 of power adapted to manufactures, which could never have proceeded from the largest increase of popula- tion, and an energy of mind never before exhibited even in the pursuit of wealth or of fame. With these advantages we shall not be deemed fanciful if we ven- ture to predict the most happy result, and to assert that our commercial consequence is only in its child- hood, and that (unless checked by political events) its career will become more rapid through succeeding generations. The effects which the manufactures have already produced upon the fleece are such as confirm our conjectures, and encourage the belief that we are yet unacquainted with the extent to which its improvement may be carried. It might have been expected that the neighbour- hood of France to the early seats of the woollen ma- nufacture would have induced that country to esta- blish a similar one upon its own territory. Yet it does not appear that she took all the advantage, which her situation afforded her. Too much occu- pied with military affairs, engaged too often in war with her Northern neighbours, and induced by cir- cumstances to pay attention to the manufacture of silk, she greatty neglected the fabrication of wool- lens. It was practised indeed in a domestic form, but made no figure as a distinct object of pursuit until the sixteenth century. Under her two great minis- ters, Iiichlieu and Cobbert, it made considerable pro- gress both in the nature of the establishments at home and demand for it abroad. More happily situated for the Turkey trade than the English and the Dutch, and perhaps feeling more readily the convenience of light cloths in the southern part of the kingdom than they could amidst the dampness of their climate, she gained CO the ascendency in the East, and almost beat them out of the market. To secure her advantage, she took great pains in the improvement of her fleeces, and procured a selection of the best native and Spanish breeds to graze her pastures. But the revocation of her solemn pledge to the protestants disturbed her manufacturers, and drove them to foreign countries,, where they might enjoy greater liberty of conscience, and prosecute their callings with more personal se- curity. Those who fled to Saxony were received with that humanity which distress is entitled to, and with a liberality of welcome which might be expected from an enlightened and patriotic sovereign. They contributed to perfect the manufactures of the coun- try, and laid the foundation of that fame which it has since attained on account of the perfection of its co- louring. They were the first who introduced among the work people that particular tint which is deno- minated the Saxon blue. In every place where the fugitives fixed their subsequent abode, they contri- buted, by their exertion, their skill, connections and capital to the success of the native manufactures, and enabled them with more decided superiority to rival those of France. The late disorders of that unhappy kingdom have occasioned new emigrations, distress- ed her artisans, and destroyed her commercial con- nections ; and thus have contributed amazingly to the preponderancy of the trade of Britain. The manufacture of wool has been long establish- ed in Ireland, and doubtless its influence upon the fleece has been no less certain there than in other places. Yet hitherto only that kind has been pro- duced which is suited to the low cloths of country consumption, and to the fabrication of worsteds. The 61 The former are adapted to the demand of a poor dis® trict, and the latter has been promoted by the expor- tation of her yarn. In Sweden and in Russia the woollen manufac- ture, considered as a distinct occupation, is compari- lively new ; yet it has subsisted long enough to produce amazing alteration in their flocks. As it was attempted in later periods, and conducted by scientific men, the best means were adapted to pro- mote the improvement, and new breeds of sheep have been introduced into both countries. The same general remark applies to Saxony and other ; circles of the German empire ; and even Hungarian flocks are not without evident marks of change for the better. Besides those general effects which the applica- tion of woollens to the common purposes of life have produced upon the flocks of different kingdoms, we ought also to notice that more particular and partial influence which must be attributed to the invention of new kinds of woollen articles, and the cessation of the demand for old ones. It is now too late to as- certain all the changes which the manufacture has { Undergone in the different periods of its history, and it would lead us too far from our purpose to attempt I the investigation. It is possible that many kinds of goods may have been produced by the loom of which we have lost the very names, and there are others which have but recently attracted notice. When the manufacture was in a more simple state we ob- serve only two kinds of substance, that which was distinguished by the name of Felt, and that which was peculiarly denominated Cloth, although under each there was probably a diversity of article. At this . 62 that period the wants of man were very easily satis- fied, and he sought not by variety to multiply his comforts, or the objects of his caprice. But in later times the felt was applied not only to the con- struction of the tent, it became a part of the house- hold furniture and was made a covering for the divan and the floor ; while the cloth was compelled to assume a vast variety both of colouring and of pattern. In subsequent ages the invention of the comb, or the application of that instrument to the manufacture of wool, was the means of giving fresh scope to genius in the production of a multitude of different articles. The catalogue of their names alone soon became so extensive as to be tedious in the repetition, and yet in still more recent years it was enlarged by the addi- tion of those articles in which the woollen and wor- sted threads are combined with each other, and also by those textures in which either of them are inter- woven with those of silk, linen and cotton. Every one of them as they rose into request, as the de- mand for them became greater, and as it diminished, must have had a corresponding influence upon our flocks, and induced their proprietors to regulate the length of the staple, and to attempt the production of proportioned supply. As we know not the age when the comb was in- vented, so we are unacquainted with the period when worsted goods were first manufactured. It is pro- bable that they were originally woven in the East, and that the knowledge of them was brought into Europe either by the Armenian merchants or those who returned from the extravagant expeditions which were undertaken for the recovery of the Holy < Land from the dominion of infidels. The garment t which ; 63 which are now worn by the Turks, some of which seem to have been produced by means of the comb, the incidental mention of that instrument in an ac- count which we have of Angora, and the demand for worsted goods through the Levant confirm the con- jecture, and lead us to suppose that there exist very considerable manufactures of this kind in the Turkish empire, although we know little more of its domestic and rural condition than can be obtained from the most vague accounts and uncertain deduc- tions. After the art of spinning worsted yarn was known in these western regions, the looms of the Ne- therlands became active in converting it into those peculiar kinds of goods to which it was adapted, and it seems as though the distinction between these and O woollen articles was not generally noticed until some years afterwards. Norwich, the first seat of them in England, in the year thirteen hundred and forty eight, had attained to some degree of eminence in this particular branch of manufacture, was already large and populous, and the artists were spread through the county of Norfolk ; yet the quantity produced was by no means adequate to supply the demands of the kingdom, for in that very year we observe new regulations which respect the importa- tion of worsteds from foreign countries. Never the- less in the short space of twenty seven years, we find that this 'trade had so greatly increased as to allow of a considerable exportation, even after the demand | for the articles at home had been supplied. There exis ed, in ail probability, a kind of barter of worsteds between this country and the Netherlands for a very | considerable date. We sent to them the peculiar I fabrics of our looms., and received in exchange those F kinds 64 kinds which were wrought only in foreign ones. During the remainder of the fourteenth and the first half of the next century, the manufacture continued to make the most rapid advances ; extended itself not only through the county of Norfolk, but even through Suffolk and Cambridgeshire ; in process of time sent its colonies into Essex, the midland and southern counties, and even into Yorkshire. In the season of its prosperity it received encouragement both from the increase of the demand for worsted goods at home, and the persecutions for conscience sake which arose abroad. The Flemings, oppressed by religious bigotry in their own country, sought for that secu- rity which ours seemed to promise them, and found employment in the workshops of the eastern district. In all the different seats where the woollen manufac- ture established itself we may easily observe its influ- ence upon the fleece. They were undoubtedly se- lected on account of their neighbourhood to some of the richer tracts of the island, whence they might be supplied with that kind of wool which was essentiallv necessary to their existence, and which, when the arts of husbandry were less improved than at present, could not be produced upon the thinner and dryer soils. The looms of the eastern parts of the kingdom depended for their supply upon the lowlands of Nor- folk and Lincolnshire ; those of the southern upon the marsh of Romney ; in the midland counties they were furnished from the rich meadows which abound there; and in Yorkshire from the divisions of Holder- ness and Cleveland. The effects of the manufactures upon the fleeces of their respective districts, through the course of several hundred years, must have been very considerable ; and we are not surprised to ob- serve 65 serve in them those sheep which have departed the most widely from the state of nature. In the lapse of ages the manufacture of worsteds, like that of every other article, has been subject to changes. At present many kind of goods which were once in great request are no longer sought after, and the materials from which they were produced must have ceased to be cultivated, or have fallen as a dead weight upon the hands of the grow-er, had not the ap- plication of genius converted them to other purposes, and the enterprize of commerce conveyed them to distant markets. This will be sufficiently illustrated by adverting to thedemand for cambletsand shalloons, which was so very great only a few years ago in this country, but which has now become nearly extinct. The wool, from which they were produced, is at pre- sent wrought by other means into articles which re quire a long and woolly knap ; or being fabricated into substances similar to the old ones, is exported to other climates. Among the articles, which have gone out of fashion with us, tapestry is one of the most singular. Like old paintings, the remnants of it exhibit the manners of former times ; and though the designs may not always be correct nor applicable to the age when it was wrought, yet it displays a great degree of invention and most excellent workmanship. The specimens which I have seen have generally been very old, and the wool of which they were composed proved to be excellent beyond my utmost expecta-* tion. So long as the demand for it prevailed in Eng- land, as it does at present abroad, it would have a proportionable effect upon the quality of the wool ; F 2 but 66 but the want of that influence is most amply supplied by the more general use of the modern carpet. Prior to the year fifteen hundred and sixty one the coverings of the legs were made of woollen cloth, as they are at present in some parts of Asia ; but about that time, when the art of knitting stockings was introduced, and the knowledge and practice of it generally diffused among thrifty housewives, a new stimulus was given to the cultivation of long wool by the increase of its consumption, and the grey fleece was dedicated to domestic employment. This kind of manufacture also became the object of undivided attention, and was instituted with most success in the counties of Leicester and Nottingham, at Aberdeen in Scotland, and at Bala in North Wales. The in- vention of the steel frame so soon as twenty seven years after the needles had been applied to the for- mation of stockings shows an attention to the rising art, which must have contributed greatly to its success, and to render its influence upon the fleece more per- manent and extensive. It soon demanded a finer wool than was cultivated upon the richer soils, and one longer than that which the card required. It was supplied with that middle kind which was not well adapted either to worsted or to woollen goods. The art of knitting, however, was not unknown in this country previous to the time when it was ap- plied to the purposes just mentioned. The knitted cap had long been the usual covering for the head, and those who manufactured it complained of the ge- neral adoption of felt hats as a circumstance which would deprive them of employment. These had been more or less in use from the year fourteen hun- dred 67 dred and eighty two, but the contest between the manufacturers did not subside for more than a hun- dred years. In the reign of Elizabeth the cappers made a violent struggle to counteract the trade of their rivals, and to restore their own article to its ac- customed estimation. As they used different kinds of wool the influence upon the fleece would vary as one or the other prevailed. The effect which the finer cloths produced upon wool, when the taste for them began to prevail, has been noticed already, and these instances may be sufficient to give an idea of the changes which are perpetually taking place in the different branches of the woollen manufacture ; one article is continually and almost imperceptibly trenching upon the demand for another, and this again resuming its former im- portance. Yet it is not often observed, when the taste for a particular kind of goods has subsided, that it rises again to its former consequence. Political assistance may support the demand some time longer than it would have existed without it, but can pro- duce no permanent and but little valuable effect ; the continued operation of those causes which pro- duced the decline, countenanced by the public incli- nation, will finally prevail over all artificial means to counteract them. In this light we view the late mea- sures adopted in the county of Lincoln to promote the consumption of long wool, and to establish the manufacture of it within the country where it grows. Notwithstanding all the advantages which are point- I ed out, and the efforts made to realize them, it is more than probable that the scheme will fail ; ror it is j 3n vain for ladies to appear at balls and public places in stuffs of domestic manufacture, so long as the F 3 greater ' 68 greater part of females in the district prefer the showy attire of the printed callico, or the more flow- ing robe of transparent muslin ; so long as dimities are preferred to calimancoes and cotton to worsted ; or while kid, Spanish leather and morocco take pre- cedence of everlasting stuff. It is of much greater consequence and more congenial to their nature that our ladies should mark the rising taste ; and, if it be advantageous to the community, that they should afford to it all the aid of their fascinating charms, ra- ther than lend them to support a mode of dress that is growing obsolete. At present almost every article of female habiliment, and many of those which are connected with household convenience, are drawn in the raw material from foreign countries, the produce of a distant soil, almost new within a centurv and many of them in less than three score years. It is certainly wise in Britons, notwithstanding the de- cline of home consumption, so long as foreign mar- kets can be found to take off the goods of old English fashion, to produce them both in the loom and in the field ; to exert their utmost power to supply, as we do at present, with our own wool the wants of those who cultivate the cotton shrub, while in order that we may spare it for them we clothe ourselves in the more elegant fabrics which are produced from the materials they send to us in exchange. While this kind of barter continues there can be no danger of a superfluity of fleeces, and the numerous woollen ar- ticles which we now produce, and the variety of new modes in which they are applied to use in this and other countries give the grower of the wool the most ample security that there will be no surplus left upon his hands for many years to come, if he only i take take care to observe what is in demand, and to culti- vate it with attention. Such is the operation of the grand cause upon 1 which all improvement in wool depends, the ap- plication of it to useful purposes. I have endea- j voured to trace it from the earliest ages and to give an historical sketch of its progress ; of the arts which I are connected with the manufacture ; of the instru- ments employed in conducting it ; of the changes to which it lias been liable, and of the policy of England with respect to it, at all times taking for granted these obvious principles that the value is in proportion to the demand, and that every man is desirous to pro- duce that article, which he supposes will afford bun the largest return for his labour. In order to have a compleat view of the subject, it will be necessary to apply ourselves to the consideration of those more particular causes which operate directly upon the fleece. In attempting this we feel more than usual diffi- dence, for although if be a subject compleatly experi- mental, and in connection with which all unsupported theories are idle and delusive, truth and candour com- pel us to acknowledge that we have performed no agricultural experiments, and that we are totally un- acquainted even with the rudiments of farming. Con- fined almost entirely within the precincts of com- merce, rural concerns reach us only by report, and render us always liable to commit palpable mistakes, when we apply to preconceived theories, facts which are related, and deduce from them conclusions. Should these pages therefore fall into the hands of a professed grazier, we commit them to his candour and solicit information. The 70 The Naturalist has commonly classed the tribe of sheep by their fleece, the colour of the face and legs, by the structure of the ears, the horns, the tail and the rump. The Grazier classes them precisely in the same manner, but instead of using the term spe- cies, he considers each class as a distinct “ breed and in order to distipguish the varieties which he per- ceives he calls them “ cross breeds.” The term, it must be confessed, arises naturally from his peculiar pursuits, and is by no means improper. The wool- stapler on the other hand, whose attention is confined chiefly to the fleece, has his peculiar arrangement ; he distinguishes the hairy sheep, that which yields wool mingled with hair, and the pure wool-bearing animal. The first of these classes is evidently uncon- nected with his profession. In the coats of the two last he observes numberless dissimilarities, and arranges them according to the colour of the pile, the length of the staple, the soil upon which the fleece was produced, and the country where it was shorn. These are the principal points to which he attends. The last is of no consequence except so far as it is connected with his knowledge of the district. It then serves to give him a general idea of the wool which happens to be the subject of discourse. Hence he most commonly connects with his description of the fleece the name of the kingdom or the county where it was grown. He speaks of the wool of Spain, of Portugal, or of Germany, of the fleeces of Sussex, of Norfolk, of Shropshire, of Northumberland or of Scotland ; and conveys to the ear of another sta- pler, by the epithet which he uses, an idea of the properties of the wool as correct as the graziers do of 71 cf sheep when they speak to each other of the Norfolk, the Ryeland, the Cheviot or the Dishley breeds. The division of fleeces into distinct classes, which the woolstapler so constantly adopts and finds so use- ful in his business, is intimately connected with a fact in natural history, which has been long since esta- blished beyond all possibility of doubt ; that the sheep is so constituted as to yield a fleece peculiarly appropriated to its distinct breed ; and that at every annual return of the season for shearing, the same animal, under the same circumstances, will afford a similar kind of wool. If therefore the colour of the pile was once white, it will be found so again ; if the staple was long, it will return in the same form ; if it was coarse and hairy, it will be so still. A tempo- rary and partial alteration may be produced in the fleece, by circumstances which we shall notice here- after ; but there is no reason to suppose that in any case the constitution of the animal is so changed, as to yield a kind of wool permanently different from that which it once afforded. The operation of slighter causes upon wool is constantly visible, and their effects have been noticed with some degree of precision ; but the consequences which some of the more violent ones produce, such as affect very sud- denly the temperature to which sheep are exposed, theirnourishment and their health, have been suffered to pass unrecorded and perhaps too often unobserved. The degree of information we at present possess, in- duces us to attribute the slight variation, which we perceive in the fleeces of the same flock at different seasons of shearing them, not to. the constitution of the animal, or to any ch nge which takes place in its characteristic peculiarities, but to the influence of external 7 2 external circumstances, which are perpetually vary- ing, and seldom if ever change in a similar manner throughout two succeeding years. If the fact, that the fleeces which the sheep produces are similar to each other, be well established, and if it be not in the power of the less violent causes to produce a material difference in them ; then nothing can more strongly evince how important it is for the wool grower to mark well the peculiarities of his flock ; to place no dependence upon accidental and external circum- stances for the production of good fleeces, but to rely entirely and with confidence upon the properties with which nature has endowed his sheep. The perpetuity of animal properties is scarcely any where more strikingly exhibited than in the cer- tainty and regularity with which the parent sheep convey to their offspring their own distinguishing characteristics. It is easy to trace the features and to observe the disposition and the fleece of both its progenitors in the lamb, but so blended and softened as to produce a character distinctly its own. What an amazing field for the exercise of human genius and assiduity has the Great Disposer of nature open- ed by this arrangement! In this as in most other in- stances he has committed to man’s own hands the management of his comforts. By this means the shepherd is enabled to combine the peculiarities of his flock with those of another, and to improve them both. It w r as upon this circumstance that the great Bakewell seized, and by means of it produced a race of sheep which will convey his name to future gene- rations. His example diffused a spirit of experimen- tal enterprise among his brethren, who have acted upon his ideas with the most happy success, and pro- mises 73 mises to extend its influence until the first of human arts has attained a degree of perfection, which it is not possible to describe. ’Tis upon this combination of j the parents’ properties in their offspring that we de- i pend for the future improvement of the British fleece, and hope that those to whose superintendance it is entrusted will not be satisfied until every individual I quadruped, which produces wool, shall possess its full share of utility. The improvement of wool, it should ever be re- i i collected, consists in rendering it better adapted to manufactures. Alterations which fail of this i! grand purpose, if produced by design, are trifling and S contemptible. If they render it less susceptible of an ! application to useful purposes, they and the abettors ii of them deserve the severe reprehension of an en- lightened agriculturist, who declares that “the de- basement of the fleece is an act of treason against the I state.” But manufactures are so very changeable, and their demand for the raw material has been so uncertain in past ages, that the grazier ought to ob- ! serve with the keen eye of a statesman the public and the domestic occurrences of the moment, if he would q produce from the backs of his sheep a commodity, 1 which shall possess the highest intrinsic value, and be most assiduously sought after. ( It would be folly to attempt the description of a sheep, which would yield in every country the most valuable fleece. The circumstances of nations differ so widely from each other, and their manners their clothing and their manufactures are so very various, that the wool which is of the utmost value with one j people is very lightly esteemed amongst others. The ) agricultural system adopted in Bucharia, an exten- sive 1 1 74 sive country in Asia, where sheep are cultivated with as much attention as in many parts of Europe, furnishes one of the most striking illustrations of this remark. In these western parts of the old world the preference is given to white fleeces, and that for rea- sons which are deemed the most weighty ; but there black sheep are more esteemed because they furnish a kind of fur which is much worn, and sold for a great price among the neighbouring people. In Europe we rear them on ac'count of the carcase ; but in that part of Asia they are kept for the sake of the skin. Here the older sheep are slaughtered, and the lambs are nourished to supply their places; but there the lambs are destroyed, and the ewes are preserved so long as they are productive. Among us a woolly coat is an object of the first importance, but the in- habitants of that region are solicitous that their flocks should be distinguished for their covering of soft and silky hair. So greatly do nations differ in their ideas of beauty, utility and intrinsic value! In a country- like England, therefore, whose woollen manufactures are established, and where many of the articles are destined to a foreign market, it behoves the inhabi- tants to observe the taste and the prejudices of every people, to suit their goods to the ideas of excellency which their, customers entertain, and to push their trade to the utmost extent. While endeavouring to attain these grand objects, the manufacturer calls perpetually upon the wool grower to assist him by adopting those breeds of sheep, which yield a fleece the best adapted to the purpose. He intreats him not to be so prejudiced to old families and to ancient modes of management, like his ancestors, as to sub- mit with reluctance to the constant and imperious influence 75 influence of manufactures. He solicits him not to counteract the efforts of the loom, but to anticipate as much as possible its demands. He assures the breeders of sheep that their interests and his own run precisely in the same direction ; that fabrics well supported and abundantly supplied with the raw ma- terial have the best chance of maintaining their ground, that then they afford the largest return for capital and labour and that the profits are always di- vided between them both. He entreats them to recol- lect that he has in no case deserted his coadjutors but | with the utmost regret, that it has always been in | consequence of circumstances over which neither he nor they had any controul, and that he has been the first to point out to them the new kind of wool which | they ought to cultivate. The causes which produce such an astonishing j variety in fleeces are in a great measure unknown to us ; and when attributed to the constitution of the animal, it is.traced to a source calculated to convince l|| the world of our ignorance. But as the effects which i proceed from the influence of blood are always uni- i form, it affords a basis upon which the sheep master may found his conduct with the utmost confidence, and enables him to foretell the result of combinations in the breeding system with wonderful precision,, Yet how it is that the colour of one fleece differs so i, totally from that of another; that one portion of an : animal should produce an opaque and brittle hair, ' while another yields a transparent and elastic wool ; why in some breeds the fleece should be confined to | the carcase, and in others envelope almost the whole ( j animal ; why some families of sheep produce white J wool, although their faces and legs are black ; and G whence I - ■ 76 whence it is that we never find the converse of this, a race of sheep with white faces and legs producing black fleeces, we cannot tell. Ourignoranceuponthesesub- jects is universal and compleat ; and perhaps like many questions of a similar kind, which may be very easily asked both with respect to sheep and quadrupeds of a different description, all enquiries instituted with a view of removing it, must long remain unanswered, notwithstanding the illustrations of the learned, and the practical observations of the most attentive gra- zier. The breed of spotted sheep, so common in the parks of our nobility, is very different from that which is intended when we speak of one with white faces and legs producing a black fleece. In the vast variety, which the characteristic marks of this tribe assume in their distribution over the body of the sheep and in their dimensions, it is possible perhaps to find an individual whose fleece is black, and its face and limbs entirely colourless ; yet we have no reason to think that there exists a breed of this de- scription, a race which has communicated the pecu- liarity from the parents to the offspring through a number of succeeding generations. There is no other breed of sheep, in which nature distributes the colours so capriciously as in the spot- ted one. Most of these, which yield a fleece of a hue different from that of their extremities, exhibit a ten- dency to produce lambs of a darker cast than them- selves ; so that the flock, if left without the superin- tending care of its possessor, would in the course of a few generations become entirely black. This remark has been made by some of the most intelligent breeders. It is deduced from their intimate know- ledge of the animal, and from the care and watchful- ness 77 ness which they find absolutely necessary in order to preserve the beauteous whiteness of its fleece. Had they recollected the early history of the sheep, when it had departed but little from the undomesticated state, had the facts which have been mentioned in the former part of this section recurred to their me- mory, it is probable that the circumstance would not have surprized them. They would have pronounced with less hesitation their opinion, u that nature in this instance was only endeavouring to return to that course from which the genius and industry of man had long compelled her to deviate.” So pertinaciously does she seek this ancient path as sometimes to pro- duce even from unstained mates, in whose formation and fleeces culture has produced its most compleat and boasted alterations, a sooty coloured lamb, as if to remind us that though constrained in these well bred flocks to wear a fashionable garb she is ready on every relaxation of discipline to exchange it for a more loose and humble attire. The flocks also with black and dingy faces, in whose fleeces the tendency to degenerate has been most frequently noticed, and whence the conclusion was drawn that the original breeds were entirely of a dusky hue, are very widely scattered over the surface of the globe. Even in coun- tries of the highest polish, and where the utmost at- tention has been given to their wool, they range al- most without a variety, and evince how much may still be expected in the cultivation of an animal which both feeds and clothes us. The breed which is dis- tinguished by the whiteness of its face is confined within' much narrower limits, abounds most in the richer districts, is generally found both at home and abroad to produce the longer wools, and even in G 2 countries 78 countries where it ranges over wide extended hills is commonly deemed the most tender animal. But the peculiarities of blood are connected not only with the colour of the fleece, they have also a most material influence upon the structure of the pile. The filaments, which different breeds of sheep produce, are much more various in their nature than those who are not accustomed to observe them will readily conceive. When examined with the assist- ance of the microscope, the only mode of becoming acquainted with the minuter properties of wool, the filaments of white fleeces appear perfectly transparent and colourless ; they bear a very great resemblance to shreds of nicely spun glass. Some very good judges of wool have spoken of it as though they doubted the correctness of this description, and seem to consider it as an opaque but polished substance ; yet it appears to be indubitably transparent by the effect which it produces upon the rays of light when thrown through it from a good mirror to the lens of the instrument. It refracts them agreeably to the i laws of transparent substances, and precisely with the same appearances as the crystallization of salts by means of the solar microscope. But the hairy parts of the staple, when seen through similar in- struments, appear perfectly opaque ; where they change to wool, the filament becomes clear and trans- picuous ; another circumstance if an additional one were wanting to convince us that the coat of the sheep does not differ very essentially from that of other quadrupeds. The pile of a black sheep, al- though it seems to possess every quality of wool when examined by an unassisted eye, is nevertheless destitute of that clearness which the combination of lenses 79 lenses exhibits. Its opacity however is not always uniform. I have sometimes seen a black filament stud- ded with white transparent spots dispersed through its whole length ; which shows most evidently that its opacity and colour is rather the effect of the arrange- ment in the particles composing the pile, than any particular secretion formed b}^ the skin of the animal. The surface of black filaments appears so far as can be discerned smooth and uniform like that of whiter ones, and their outlines as well defined, so that the colour is probably owing to something distinct fro m that arrangement of surface which absorbs or dissi- pates the light. The transparency of wool, which has been found most perfect in the best kind of fleeces, seems to be connected with the breed of the sheep, and is therefore an object worthy of the wool grower’s attention. There are some other breeds of sheep which yield a wool remarkable for its brilliancy ; although the pile be not perfectly opaque, yet the surface of it seems to possess very fine polish , like that of a metal- lie needle ; and the lustre with which it reflects the rays of light has given it among workmen the appro- priate appellation of silvery haired wool. This is most frequent!}^ found upon the backs of sheep whose pile is remarkably Jong and hairy. ’Tis not so fre- quent in England as it formerly was, and the farmer willfflo well if he banish it entirely. There are still other breeds, which afford fleeces whose pile is ob- servable for a wan and sickly appearance, destitute of lustre and almost without elasticity ; and some, both in their general appearance and the structure of the filament, bear a resemblance to unwrought cot- ton. In the Vigonian wools we meet with a' staple G 3 nearly 80 nearly opaque, but remarkable for its smooth and silky texture. The particular shape of the filament is most pro- bably determined by that of the pore in the skin, through which it is protruded. In some families of sheep we observe the pile perfectly round and even, like a very nicely drawn wire ; and in others it is uniformly flat and smooth, like a small bar of finely polished steel. This difference is frequently disco- verable by inspection alone, but becomes more obvi- vious if one end of the filament be held fast while the other is rolled round its own axis betwixt the fingers. It then reflects the rays of light if it be flat in the same way that the metallic shreds, which we obtain from gold and silver lace, do when they are treated in a similar manner, and concerning whose shape we can have no reasonable doubt. This variety of arrangement which we observe in the particles com- posing the filaments peculiar to different breeds of sheep, and the laws by which it is regulated, are sub- jects not entirely unworthy of their notice who have time and inclination to pursue them, nor of his whose object is to produce wool in its most perfect form. Another topic, which might with great propriety be recommended to their attention, is the quality of that substance which is most commonly found inti- mately mingled with the pile of our fleeces, which on account of its yellowness and consistency, its egg like appearance, is aptly denominated yolk. The in- vestigation of its properties, and of the good effects which it produces upon the fleece while growing, is more properly the business of the grazier than of the wool-stapler, and he has the most abundant means of acquiring information. Hitherto it must be acknow- ledged 81 ledged that they have been too much neglected ; yet he few facts with which we are furnished indicate that without the assistance of yolk, or the application of some other substance which shall act as a substi- tute for it, wool possessing the best qualities cannot be produced. The celebrated breeds of Berry, of Castile and of Persia, we are informed, furnish the most copious supply of yolk, and at the same time yield those valuable fleeces which are eagerly sought after by the manufacturers of the countries where they are shorn, in order that they may be able to supply even distant markets with the most valuable commodities. The attempt to improve the fleeces of England, of Germany and of Sweden, by the intro- duction of foreign blood, has uniformly exhibited proofs of the value of this nutritious substance ; not only by communicating to the offspring a more soft arid attenuated pile, but by enabling them to yield for its support and preservation a much larger supply of this valuable fluid. And even the native breeds of our own island, whose unmingled blood has flowed through several ages, if attentively examined, evince that the power of producing a copious supply of healthy and nutritious yolk is one of the most im- portant qualities of wool-bearing animals, and that there is scarcely any property in which they differ from each other more widely. The fleece itself when shorn without washing most clearly shows that the breast and shoulders of sheep have generally | yielded it much more freely than parts remote from the vitals ; and the good qualities of the pile which is produced there are distinguishable by the most un- taught observer. On the hinder parts of those ani- mals which have been long neglected a coarse and shaggy 82 shaggy staple is most commonly observed, and the wool becomes finer and more valuable as it ap- proaches the fore quarters ; but in cases where the sheep have been improved, and a larger quantity of the animal juices directed to the thighs, the breech of the fleece has not only become less extensive, but is also composedof smaller hair, a circumstance which on many accounts is well worth the attention of the gra- zier. The quantity of yolk which our native breeds produce is in general smaller than that of foreign sheep, yet even among them the variety is so consi- derable as to furnish data for very useful conjectures. In the southern parts of the island it is sufficient for the production of a coat which enables the flocks to endure the rigours of winter without any additional covering, sufficient also to prevent the fleece from becoming thin or hairy ; but in the northern parts of the kingdom, and upon the hills of Scotland, some of the breeds of sheep produce it in such small quanti- ties as to render it unsafe for the farmer to expose his flocks to the severities of the winter quarter, un- less he furnish them with an artificial covering of grease mingled with tar, in order, as he says, to keep them warm. Yet he confesses that he finds this dirty coat as indispensibly necessary to the good qualities of the fleece as it is to the health of the animal ; with- out it the wool becomes hairy, thin and light, with it the fleece is full, soft and rich, possesses a sufficient quantity of healthy yellow yolk, and appears to thrive much better after the tar has been laid on than it did before ; the nature, the qualities and the condition of the wool are most wonderfully improved. From these circumstances we conclude that the yolk, a sub- stance which has been so greatly neglected, yet has so long 83 long deserved the attention of the grazier ; which has been perpetually under his eye through a long course of ages, is not only necessary to the produc- tion of a valuable fleece, but is the very pabulum of wool. The French have taken much greater pains to ascertain the nature of this valuable oil and its effects upon the fleece than the English, although we can boast of much older manufactures than theirs, and the assistance of the legislature through more than four hundred years. On the other side of the channel, intelligent manufacturers have been encouraged to institute experiments, and perform them with such ease as to convince themselves that some of the best qualities of wool depend greatly upon the quantity of yolk in which the fleece is produced. The English wool which they tried, and found remarkably deficient in this respect, they pronounce to be “ hard, dry and rotten.” When they assumed the character of experimental philoso- phers, and endeavoured to elicit the secrets of na- ture, we trust that their judgment was not influenced by the prejudices, which too often exist between rival artists ; nor should ours so far prevail as to ren- der us too proud to learn even from a junior and a foe. Some who have thought upon the subject have concluded from the oiliness of the yolk, that it con- sists of the common perspirable matter, which all ani- mals exude, mingled with a portion of that greasy substance which sheep so copiously secrete. But M. Yauquelin who has submitted it to the test of che- mical analysisdeclares as the result of hisexperiments, that 4 4 the greater part of it is a soap with a base of potash,” and that the remaining portion consists of that 84 that salt in a state of combination with other sub- stances. The whole of it he considers as the produc- tion of the animal, without the addition of any ingre- dients which the fleece might accidentally collect from the soil or the litter upon which the sheep repos- ed. The account which this learned chemist has . published upon the subject, together with some re- marks upon the method of scouring and bleaching wool, may be found in the Philosophical Magazine, vol. 1 y. We are sorry that a person so well qualified did not push his experiments farther and endeavour to ascertain whether the yolk be similar in all the va- rious breeds of sheep, and how far it differs from the matter perspired by other laniferous quadrupeds. The manner in which the yolk acts upon the wool is not accurately known. Some have considered it as the superabundance of that substance which forms the filament, and which by some unknown process while the pile is growing is consolidated into a trans- parent mass ; while others conclude, perhaps more reasonably, that it is a peculiar secretion, which ex- udes through the skin, and by intermingling with the pile renders it soft, pliable, and healthy ; affecting it much in the same way as oil does a thong of leather when kept immersed in it and perfectly saturated. A very curious and intricate question has been asked re- specting the mode in which the wool imbibes the yolk, whether by means of the root alone, or also by the pores which it is supposed may be scattered through the whole length of the hair. But as this question, if solved, promises no useful information, we shall leave it to the advocates of the respective hypotheses to determine, and satisfy ourselves with having bare- ly mentioned it. Much 85 Much need not have been said upon the nature of yolk and its intimate connection with the good quali- ties of wool, when speaking upon the peculiar consti- tution of sheep, had not this distinguishing feature of their different families been too much neglected. In general this substance has been noticed without any particular reference to the breed of the animal, or the qualities of the fleece which it bears ; sometimes as totally disregarded as the sand, or the hay seed, which are accidentally mingled with the pile. Yet the disposition to produce this valuable animal soap is certainly as important as some other characteristics of the sheep, and ought not to be overlooked when we describe their different varieties, or select them for our farms. I have not yet seen any of those animals or their produce which are said to afford a staple equally fine from every part of the body, but conjecture that if this breed were, minutely examined it would appear that the yolk is produced in equal quantity'on every part of the carcase. The sheep also which produce wool upon their bellies and shanks, like the Merino family, most probably yield a good and healthy yolk down to the very fetlock ; while those which cover these parts with a short and opaque hair, like the Wiltshire breed, afford the secretion so beneficial to the staple only from the upper parts of the half covered body. The dissimilarity of the fleeces yielded by these two kinds of sheep, the com- pleat envelopement of the one, and the scanty coat of (the other, leads us to suppose that the quantity of wool, which we produce from an individual sheep, is in a great measure regulated by the conduct of the grow- er. It he approach the purity of the Spanish blood he 86 he clothes his flocks in a kind of surtout which en- wraps every part of the animal, except the lower ex- 1 tremity of the face and the feet ; and by selecting his rams from the Downs of Marlborough, if he were am- bitious of such a distinction, he might probably pro- duce a race entirely devoid both of wool and of yolk. It has already been suggested that it would be the extreme of folly to point out any particular breed of sheep as that which, in all circumstances, might be con- sidered as the best. On this point the opinion of the wool-grower must be determined by the demands of the manufacture and the circumstances of his farm ; yet he may always depend upon it as an indubitable fact, that whether he produce long wool or short, of a coarser or a finer pile, it will be good or bad, adapted to the purposes for which it is designed or not so, in proportion to the quantity of sound and healthy yolk in which it is produced. Here, as in every other case, the breed is of the utmost consequence. It is the basis upon which all improvements of the flock must be founded ; the only source of hope that attempts to produce fine wool of the first quality will be followed by success. Other circumstances are generally imposed upon the shep- herd, and he has little more controul over them than over the storms of winter or the sultry heat of autumn. He may preserve his flocks from their extreme in- fluence, but cannot entirely counteract it. But the breed, the constitution of his sheep, he can change al- most at will ; it is submitted to his own direction and deserves his first regard. The temperature to which sheep are exposed has long been considered as one of the prime agents in the production of fine wool. This valuable substance was observed to abound most in countries 87 countries, which enjoy the influence of a mild and generous climate, exposed neither to the oppressive heat of the torrid zone, nor to the chilling winds of the frigid. The best fleeces are grown in Spain, Italy and Persia; countries which lie under almost the same parallels, and enjoy a temperature sufficient to maintain that copious and regular perspiration of the animal, which is undoubtedly favourable to the production of good qualities in wool, although not absolutely essential to the fineness of the pile. It was supposed that a greater degree of heat by dissipating the juices of the sheep prevented them from nou- rishing the wool ; and that the fleece by this means became short, thin and hairy. On the contrary, in regions where the climate was less warm, it was con- jectured that the yolk, or whatever it be that pro- motes the growth of the hair, was rendered unsuitable to the production of an attenuated pile, and caused the fleece to be coarse, long and shaggy. The opi- nion was supported not merely by observing the situ- ation of the countries where the better fleeces are grown, but aiso by remarking that when a sheep changed its climate it produced an offspring not so much resembling itself as the lanigerous animals which surrounded it ; and that in a few generations its descendants were scarcely distinguishable from the native sheep. The instances, which have been adduced with the greatest confidence, as affording a sufficient demonstration of the all-powerful influence of climate, were collected from accounts, which have been given of English sheep exported to the West Indies ; of Spanish to South America, the Cape of Good Hope and some other countries ; and of those, which were regularly conveyed by the Dutch Ii to 88 to the island of Java. The degeneracy of their off- spring has been thought a sufficient reason for sup- posing, that the constitution of the wool-bearing ani- mal was incapable of enduring without injury the ex- cessive heats of these southern regions. But. in these instances the intermixture of blood was entirely over- looked, and the animal absurdly expected to produce a lamb exactly similar to that, which it had dropped in its native country when mated with one which car- ried a fleece resembling its own. The insufficiency of this argument is now generally acknowledged, for by more accurate observations it has been discovered that the sheep of England, when transported to Ja- maica, yield the same kind of “ burly fleece” as they did at home, and if prevented from mingling their breed with that of the native stock, their offspring afford a wool exactly similar to that which they would have done in this climate. Even the hairy na- tive sheep of the island, which probably came origi- nally from the Spanish main, and were supposed to possess a coat without any admixture of wool, are found to produce that substance in small quantities concealed beneath their stronger and more brittle co- vering, and would most probably produce it in a larger proportion if proper measures were taken to cultivate it. But in a country where the fleece is not shorn, and in a climate where the woolly pile is little used, it is not wonderful that the flocks should be neglected or their produce little regarded. The samegeneral remarks apply to those sheep of Spain, which have been exported to the American colonies. So long as they were suffered to intermingle with those, which had been introduced from other quar- ters, the race invariably degenerated ; hut since care has has been taken to preserve them distinct, as good wool has been imported into Spain from Buenos-Ayres as the individuals would have produced at home. At the Cape of Good Hope the Spanish flocks have uni- form!}' exhibited the same phenomena.- When pre- served pure from the native blood, the lambs have been distinguished for the beauty of their fleece ; and the descendants of a pair, which have been car- ried even to the distant shores of New South Wales,, whose progenitors were conveyed from Spain to the United Provinces, and from thence to Africa, pro- duce a fleece so correctly beautiful as to rival, it is said, the best produce of the Leonean mountains. The animals also which have been observed to cast their fleeces, when sent on shore in Java, most evi- dently do so not because the heat of the climate is in- compatible with the growth of wool, but because the land about Bantam is naturally ill adapted to the i constitution of sheep. They are driven to the moun- tains, a more cool and dry situation, not so much with a view of preserving their fleece, as to secure their health, and prolong their lives. The existence of fine wool in the more temperate regions has been accounted for upon principles very different from the natural tendency of those climates to promote its growth. The superiority of the Spa- nish, the Italian, and the Persian fleeces, has been traced already to the establishment of ancient manu- factures, which continually affected the flocks through a long succession of ages. To this cause it is most naturally attributable, and there is no occasion to seek for an auxiliary one. Had the superior kind of wool derived its excellency only from the influence of the sun, of the clouds and the soil, the fleeces of 90 the southern parts of France, of Turkey and Arabia, even those of the northern portion of Hindoostan and of China, must have borne to each other a very consi- derable resemblance ; nor could the pile of Spain have greatly degenerated by being conveyed to the hills of Mexico or of the United States of America. If a moderate degree of warmth had been absolutely necessary to the existence of wool-bearing sheep, none of them would have been found on the coast of Gui- nea, nor in the scorching regions of Bengal ; it would have been impossible that both distinctions, those which produce a valuable pile, and those destitute of it, should exist together almost in the same plains, and crop with equal avidity the same arid grasses. The production of wool even under the Equator is one of the most convincing proofs that the fleeces of sheep are not so greatly affected by the sultry and oppressive heat of the climate, as by the constitution of the animals which produce them. But the effect of heat upon wool is nevertheless very remarkable. Dr. Anderson, in his observations upon the fleece, has clearly proved that the pile, pro- duced during the prevalence of hot weather, is visi- bly coarser than that, which the same sheep affords in the colder season. He supposes that the superior de- gree of heat expands the pores of the skin, and that the absence of it tends to contract them ; so that the pile which is protruded through them becomes thicker or thinner in the same proportion as the diameter of the aperture is larger or more con- tracted. It is to be regretted that he did not extend his experiments farther, to different breeds of sheep, and observe whether the effect was similar in all of them ; for it appears that his flock furnished a copious , supply 91 supply of the wool-producing humor, and that the the pores through which it passed were constantly full. We acknowledge that these experiments, so far as they proceed, are compleatly satisfactory, and they convince us that 44 a great degree of heat pro- duces upon the fleece an effect totally opposite to that which has been generally ascribed to it ; that it tends to render the hair coarser instead of finer.” Probably it might be easy to ascertain the influence of temperature, even in its extreme degree, if a sheep were conveyed to distant climates, shorn there, and the fleeces compared with those which it had yielded at home. If the manner in which wool is produced were more accurately noticed, if the effects of changing seasons were diligently noted, if care were taken to preserve the fleeces which an indi- vidual had afforded in different situations, and under varied treatment, so that they might be compared with each other, and if the staple were either measur- ed, or marked at regular intervals of time, we should ascertain a number of facts respecting the production of wool which we are at present ignorant of, and per- haps might be able to procure it in a much more per- fect state. Until our knowledge becomes more per- fect we must consider the influence of temperature as reduced to a single point, which requires only that the shepherd do not unnecessarily expose his flocks to the extremes of heat or of cold, nor to any capricious changes. If he wish to produce the best of fleeces he muct cultivate the breed with sedulous attention, and no longer attempt to apologize for the want of exertion, by complaints that his flocks do not bask themselves upon the sunny mountains of JLeon, nor crop their winter herbage on the genial H 3 banks 92 banks of the Douro. The most celebrated flocks of these regions have already dispersed their colonies, without injury to the fleece, over the gentler hills of England, the plains of France and Saxony, through some of the dells of Sweden, to the banks of the Plata, to Southern Africa, and the utmost regions of the Asiatic isles. The effects of dryness and moisture upon wool, although not frequently distinguished from the gene- ral influence of climate, are very considerable, and deserve the close attention of the grazier. No mea- sures I believe have been adopted to ascertain the de- gree in which these causes affect the fleece, and our information respecting them must be deduced from general cases and the prevailing opinion of those, whose employment calls upon them to observe the qua- lities of wool. There are few persons conversant with this article, who do not perceive when they examine the fleeces of a district, of which one part is much dryer than the other, a remarkable difference in those which each submits to their inspection. Upon the lower grounds, and in marshy countries, we almost invariably find a sheep producing a longer and coarser pile than its neighbours, which pasture upon the more elevated farms. Sometimes the husband- man of these more dry and healthy spots prefers a breed of sheep smaller than that which occupies the pasture of the richer farms, one able to roam much more widely in search of food, and to travel with less fatigue to a distant fold, such as yields -a fleece so different from that of the heavier flocks as to admit of no comparison with it in order to ascertain the precise effect of their damper situation. Yet there are some instances in which we meet with mem- bers bers of the same family in both parts of the district*, attended nearly with the same care and maintained almost in equal condition, and observe that the wool of the one is shorter, finer and lighter than the fleece of the other. Perhaps the dissimilarity may be part- ly owing to the smaller quantity of food, which the sheep upon thin lands can collect, to the extra fa- tigue they undergo in order to obtain it, and to the smaller portion of time w r hich they spend in repose and mastication ; but after every reasonable allowance is made for circumstances of this kind, there is a consi- derable proportion of the effect remaining, which we attribute with some confidence to the superior mois- ture or dryness of the farms where the fleeces were grown. No stapler, I am persuaded, whose opinion is founded upon a long course of observation, will seek among marshes and vapour for fine wool. He expects to find the fleeces of such situations more coarse, hairy and loose than those produced where the rays of the sun fall directly upon the field, and preserve both the fleece and the lodgment of the sheep dry and healthy. The moisture, which so fre- quently surrounds the summits of the loftier moun- tains, and rests upon their shoulders, especially if they be exposed to vapour rising from the 'ocean, is no less deleterious to the staple than the roists of lakes and morasses. On those mountains of Ireland, of Scotland and Norway, which rise from the shores of the Atlantic and are exposed to its influence, we find fleeces of a very inferior order, when compared with those which the same sort of sheep produce in more sheltered situations ; and still farther beneath the va- lue of those, which are procured from the dryer sides of the Castilian and Kermanian hills. The sheep of Shetland 94 Shetland, producing a small and valuable fleece al- though exposed to the influence of moisture in its utmost violence, and the race once diffused over the Highlands of Scotland, and which, notwithstanding the cloudiness of its pasture, yielded a wool much su- perior to that which is now produced there, may be selected as instances to show that too much is attri- buted to these causes ; and it has been supposed that the improvement, visible in the sheep of Cornwall and of the fens in Lincolnshire, evinces that a moist atmosphere is not so incompatible with the growth of good wool as we have stated it to be. But these in- stances by no means prove that these breeds of sheep upon drier pastures, and attended with greater care than they areat present, would fail to produce a much better fleece than they have done in a moist one ; and the improvements which have been adduced would probably have proceeded with greater rapidity, been effected with more ease, and attained a higher degree of excellency, had they been attempted upon flocks in situations better adapted to their nature and to the good qualities of wool. The bad effects of water upon the pile while growing may be owing to the readiness with which it mingles with the yolk, and carries off a quantity of that animal soap, which is so necessary to the good quality and even the existence of the fleece jd'or if care be taken to prevent this by the skilful application of tar mingled with butter, which act as repellants to the water, the lower part of the staple, which grew after the mixture was applied, contains a sufficient supply of rich and nutricious yolk, and is a much superior sort of wool to those points of the pile, which have been exposed without protection 9<5 protection to the dripping wetness of the wintry season. Some of the best qualities of wool, especially those of the finer kind of fleeces, have been attributed to the influence of pasture. Large and open downs which receive but little attention from the farmer, where the sheep with great labour can procure only a limited supply of food, have been often represent- ed as absolutely necessary to the production of that soft and attenuated pile, which is universally admired. The finest fleeces, which have been collected in our native country, have generally been obtained from the hills of moderate elevation, and from soils, which can- not boast of being enriched by the fertilizing collec- tions of the farmer’s yard. They are the produce of wide wastes, where the individual rights are not dis- tinguishable, but so blended as to form a common property and produce an indiscriminate advantage. Such fleeces, the produce of exhausted pasture and of meagre animals, are commonly much smaller, lighter and finer than those we obtain from lower lands and more highly fed carcases. It appears that the food which a sheep procures is directed by the hand of the universal benefactor chiefly to the sup- plyingmf those juices, which nourish it, and produce that plumpness of muscle so desirable in quadrupeds of this description ; that the formation of its coat is only a secondary object in the process of nature, and the humor suitable to this purpose is not secret- ed until that which is essential to the existence and the health of the animal has been produced. Hence it is that the fleeces furnished by the commons, which have been procured from half starved sheep, are uniformly small and light ; that their pile is al- ways 90 ways thin, weak and short ; that the condition of it is low and less mellow than it should be, and exhibits symptoms of improvement near the bottom of the staple. But the sheep grazing in richer pastures, where they easily obtain food, which both satisfies their appetites and furnishes a surplus of the juices necessary to their health, yield fleeces of longer pile, of greater weight and superior condition, less adapt- ed most certainly to many purposes of the woollen manufacture, but considered merely as wool afforded by a particular breed of sheep possess an intrinsic va- lue much superior to the starved pile. Theideathat dry fallows, commons and hungry soils, were neces- sary to the production of good wool, arose in the earlier ages of the manufacture, when the constitu- tion of the sheep was little attended to, and men at- tributed to the land that which is really the effect of the breed or family of the sheep ; and it is maintained even now by some, who do not discriminate between the different races, which stock the country, so rea- dily as between the soils which compose it. The state of the Spanish flocks and the management of them by shepherds, whose superior skill has been universally allowed, were often adduced as instances, which sufficiently prove the impossibility of growing the finest wool upon luxuriant pastures. It was ob- served that these were divided into two kinds, the travelling and the stationary ones ; that the latter, which continued through the whole year upon the plains and the best lands of their native country, afforded a wool distinguished neither by its fineness nor other good qualities; while those, which were compelled to travel from the lower grounds to mountainous provinces, and driven to crop the vege- tables 97 tables of the loftiest summits, upon which they spent the summer, returning to their former folds as the winter approached, yielded a fleece of the utmost beauty, and surprizingly adapted to the fabrication of woollen cloth. Some stedfastly maintain that this superiority of the staple is owing to the fatigue, which the sheep are compelled to undergo ; to the clima- ture and the herbage of the mountains upon which they spend the hottest season ; that if they had con- tinued on the plains their fleeces would not have been distinguished from those of the stationary flocks ; and that if these latter had ascended the mountains, and been managed as the others were, they also would have afforded a superior pile. Yet these gentlemen mention no instance of such an ex- change of treatment ; they describe no experiment made with a view of ascertaining its effects ; they for- get that there are as certainly different breeds of sheep in Spain as in any other country, and that the wool of every district, where manufactures have been established and long prosecuted with industry and discrimination, cannot be uniform. Nor is it more consistent to trace the superiority of the Spanish pile to sheep sent from England in the fifteenth century, because the wool of that country had then been dis- tinguished for its superior qualities even here, through more than three hundred years. A few sheep, which at various times have been brought from Spain and grazed upon the lawns of gentlemen, have yielded fleeces much more weighty, coarse.and long than were expected from them, and have appeared to sanction an opinion that the wool had undergone a great alte- ration by the exchange' of climate, of treatment and of pasture. A fleece of this kind was shown to me last 98 last summer, it weighed about nine pounds, and had been well grown in a plentiful supply of rather yel- lowish yolk, was evidently the produce of a male, and had nearly enveloped the whole animal. The wool was about nine inches long unon the shoulder, ' and four on the bell}*, not finer than the usual produce of large sheep, natives of England ; but the staple was well formed and exceedingly compact ; the hair was evenly disposed and but little curled. This sheep had been brought from BUboa by a merchant ship, and perhaps, like most of those imported into the country in a similar way, had been taken on board without any attention to the family from which it was selected, most probably from the meadows, which generally surround sea ports, or even from the marshes, which are so frequent near the mouths of rivers. There is no reason to believe that these sheep would have afforded a smaller fleece even in their own country, much less to suppose that they were . invigorated by the best blood of the superior breeds. A mattrass, which had been purchased at Cadiz, and supposed to be stuffed with the produce of the neigh- bourhood, contained the worst wool that I ever saw ; it was superior indeed to to the hair upon the shanks of English sheep, but not so good as the breech ob- tained from the worst kind of our own fleeces. If it be fair to reason from a fact so imperfectly stated, we must conclude that there is a race of sheep in that country, producing wool of a very inferior order, or one whose fleece does not envelop the belly and the legs of the animal. We place but little depen- dence upon facts so imperfectly described, and men- tion them only because they point out one method of collecting information, respecting the produce of a country 99 country which has commonly been very much neg- lected. The manufactures always contain the best samples of the raw materials. From the most accu- rate descriptions of the wool of Spain, which have fallen into my hands, there appears to be no ground for supposing that the sheep of that country belong entirely to one family. The state of the travelling flocks is minutely related, while that of the stationary ones is either passed over in silence, or but slightly noticed. Yet from these fragments which lie scatter- tered over the field of statistical enquiry we gather some hints, which induce us to conclude, that we should entertain just as correct an opinion of the British fleece, if we supposed from some slight accounts of it, which are published, that the breeds of Wiltshire and of Lincoln are precisely the same, as we do of the Spanish when we imagine that the same race ranges the mountains of Segovia and reclines upon the plains of Seville. If to the richness of the pasture we must trace the existence of coarse wool, as to its primary cause, we should observe it more frequently upon the backs of sheep which are distinguishable for their fatness ; and the size of the hair, upon some occasions, would indicate the period when an individual exchanged the down and the common for the meadow and the lich enclosure, for the quality of the pile must be- come less valuable in proportion as the condition of the sheep improved. Yet on the contrary, it is ge- nerally remarked that the fleece shorn from an animal in good condition is preferable to that which it pro- duced when in a leaner state ; and that the bottom of the staple, that part of it which grew during the spring, when the supply of food became more I plentiful 100 plentiful, and the carcase plump and weighty, is often more valuable than the other portions grown when the fields were least productive. We are well aware that long wool in its most per- fect state cannot be expected from sheep destitute of the quantity of food, which nature requires for her support. When the animal is pinched with hunger, it converts almost the whole nutriment which it re- ceives to the support of the carcase. The imperious demands of hunger must if possible be supplied, and the wool-producing humor, whatever it be, is imme- diately rendered tributary to the first necessities of nature. This is one of the resources to u'hich she applies in order to preserve the existence and the health of the animal ; she sacrifices a small conve- nience to obtain an essential good, and the fleece re- mains light as though half produced, while the pile is short and somewhat more fine than it would have been in a richer state. These effects have often been observed in the course of farming. They were much more common before it was the custom among graziers to procure a large supply of winter food ; and are still observed when the colder season proves unexpectedly severe, or contending with the growing year for protracted dominion requires that the shep- herd dispense his fodder with a sparing hand. Hun- ger, like cold, contracts the pores of the skin, and renders the yolk, that nourisherof wool, less copious or ill adapted to its natural purposes ; affects with keen severity the more tender breeds, but falls with peculiar weight upon the lambs which through two winters have borne their fleece. The hardier race, however, that which looks defiance to mountain storms, and with persevering patience breaks through the 101 the frozen snow to seardi its food, which is content- ed with the coarsest fare of the roughest pasture ex- hibits in its fleece no such symptoms of injured health or ill adapted yolk, though left to secure and to sup- ply itself. These effects of hunger upon the fleece should al- ways be attributed to their true cause ; they are less connected with the qualities of the pasture than with the constitution and disposition of the animal, and teach us that these should always be adapted to the farm upon which it is placed. The sluggishness of those creatures, which produce long wool ; requires that their food be rich, plentiful and at band, while the mountain breed, endowed w r ith a roving temper, which disdains the boundaries of a narrow pasture, seeks its nourishment through an extensive range, al- though it could procure it in the largest abundance with the least possible exertion. The sheep, like most other animals, is a creature of habit as well as instinct, delights in the modes of life to which it has been accustomed, and changes its dispositions only by degrees or the combination of blood. Both Bake- well and Culley were well acquainted with its pecu- liarities, and have succeeded in their attempts to produce a breed, in which symmetry of form is unit- ed with w'onderful adaptation to circumstances. The sheep of Dishley, heavy of fleece and of temper, have diffused themselves over the richer fields of Lei- cestershire and Lincolnshire ; while those of the Che- viot hills, bearing light fleeces and having long and well formed limbs, scale the mountains of the North and of Scotland. When this nice adjustment of the breed to the cir- cumstances of the farm is attained, when the quan- I 2 tity tity of food is sufficient to preserve the health of the sheep, and to supply its fleece with an abundance of valuable yolk, when the flock enjoys that ease and comfort which all animals desire, the mere richness or poverty of land seems to have no influence in ren- dering the fleece either coarser or finer. In the course of a few months flocks are sometimes obliged to change their pasture and to feed upon soils of a very different description ; and yet if their food be sufficient and their comfort undiminished, I presume no one has ever observed a variation in the fineness of the pile. When under such circumstances they have even exchanged the grasses of the mountains for the most nutritious kind of aliment, their fleece, it is thought, has not become more coarse than it was formerly. This opinion is countenanced by the ex- periments of a learned and judicious agriculturist, who has sought to diversify the monotony of profes- sional engagements by rural occupations, and upon his judgment and accuracy we rely with unsuspicious confidence. But when a sheep which had been ac- customed to labour for its food obtains it with great ease, and spends more hours in repose and mastica- tion, the staple of its fleece, although it retains its fineness, becomes considerably longer. This effect is often observed in the different flocks of the same parish, sometimes in the individuals of the same farm. ’Tis however the effect of ease rather than of pasture, and should be attributed to that as its proxi- mate cause. The extraordinary fineness of Spanish wool, the object of English envy through almost seven hun- dred years, was long attributed, among other causes, to the peculiar herbage of the mountains, upon which 103 which the sheep spent their summer months. They furnished, it was asserted, a large supply of aromatic plants which the flocks distinguished with the utmost nicety and devoured with the greatest eagerness; so that it was deemed from this circumstance utterly vain to attempt the production of an equal pile in any country, which possessed not the means of sup- plying the. flocks with the same delicate nutriment* But a traveller, Who examined the pastures of Spain with a botanic eye, assures us that these boasted plains, elevated far above the level of the sea, do not yield grasses materially different from those of other districts, under the same parallels, and of equal ele- vation. We should expect, if such were the cause, that the fleeces collected from the sides of the towering Py- ranees, would be equal in point of goodness to those of acknowledged beauty collected from the hills of Cas- tile and Leon ; that they must resemble the pile, which covers and adorns the shoulders of the Alps and the Appenines, of the Caucasian and the Altaic chains ; those of Atlas, Syria and Persia must be nearly alike ; nor could a great dissimilarity be observable in the more humble coats of England whether produced upon the South Downs, the Cotteswold, or the Cum- brian hills. Nor would it be wise in any case to at- tempt the improvement of our flocks without produc- ing a correspondent change among the plants of our farms ; instead of turnips and cole seed we must cul- tivate thyme and marjoram. But we reason no longer upon these points from theory or general facts, the question is clearly decided by the establish- ment of Spanish flocks in every quarter of the globe, in countries whose soil, temperature, climate and herbage differ most widely. In every place, if pre- I 3 served 104 served from the contaminating influence of inferior blood, they yield a fleece of a superior order, unaf- fected either by the difference of food or of treat- ment ; as distinguishable for excellent qualities as that of their progenitors. But the judicious woolstapler is by no means in- attentive to the nature of the soil upon which the sheep have been pastured. Calcareous earths, when mingled with the pile, produce a very singular effect upon it, and form the characteristic feature of that kind of fleeces, which the manufacturer distinguishes by the name of chalky wool. These substances ren- der it dry and hard, destitute of that lustre and yolky appearance, which most other wool possesses, and that felting quality, which fits it for the opera- tion of the fulling mill ; a process absolutely necessary in the fabrication of woollen cloth, but it is readily dispensed with in the production of some other arti- cles. Perhaps this kind of earth produces its per- nicious effect upon wool by absorbing that yolk which is so intimately connected with the best quali- ties of the fleece, or by destroying that peculiar com- bination of the fluid, which renders it best adapted to the nourishment of tiie pile. All mixtures of earth with this substance, even that of pure silicious sand, render it less proper for the purposes to which nature lias destined it, and it should be one object of the far- mer’s care to preserve it free from the smallest adul- teration. He will perceive a very material difference betwixt the effects of lime stone and of chalk upon Iiis fleece ; for the former, which is generally covered with a stratum of vegetable earth, does not so easily mingle with the pile and often produces it in very good condition, though seldom possessed of the best of 10 5 of qualities. There is one fact respecting this kind of land related very vaguely in Dr. Aikin’s Description of the Country round Manchester, which deserves the close attention of both the grazier and the wool- stapler. It is intimated that if flocks of sheep pre- cisely of the same breed, and I suppose in the same condition, be placed, one upon lime stone, and ano- ther upon grit, and kept there for a given time, the weight of the former will exceed that of the latter by four pounds per quarter, and “ that there is a still greater difference in their fleeces.” Perhaps upon minute inquiry it might be found that the obser- vation had not been made with all the accuracy, which agricultural experiments require, or that the sheep pasturing upon the gritstone had endured either more hunger or more fatigue than their com- rades ; a circumstance which seems to be indicated, at least to a person who is not a grazier, by the infe- rior weight of the carcase. A course of experi- ments calculated to illustrate the effects of the vari- ous soils upon the fineness, the length and the gene- ral qualities of wool, would be acceptable, to the shepherd, and instructive to the manufacturer. At present, we imagine, that to produce their fleece in its best state sheep should always crop a luxuriant herbage, in dry situations, on loamy soils, beneath a temperate sky, and lodge upon the thickest carpets of verdant nature. Here again we should observe, and the remark cannot be made too often, that the influence of pas- ture, climate and temperature are entirely subordi- nate to that of blood. ’Tis upon this the greatest changes depend, to this we look for the best improve- ment of flocks, ’tis this which first demands the shep- herd’s 106 herd's care, which he must regulate according to the unalterable circumstances of his farm, and to the de- mands of the manufacturer. In a business so deli- cate, and which relates to a substance so susceptible of change as to be rendered in the space of a few years extremely good, or destitute of valuable quali- ties, he should observe every process with the utmost attention ; should possess a profound knowledge of nature, of the woollen manufacture and of commerce. Happily the age is long since passed away when he seemed a loiterer with his flock, more ambitious that the valleys should resound with the melody of his reed than that his sheep should exhibit proofs of his superior knowledge and attention ; when he was more employed in whispering the soft sentiments of the heart to a blooming shepherdess, or receiving from her lovely hands the variegated garland, than in attentively noticing the form of his sheep and the peculiarities of their fleece ; when he formed the gay circle and 66 lightly tript it o’er the green,” instead of marking the hints, which nature daily gave him of her hidden operations, comparing them with each other under the direction of inventive genius temper- ed by the soundness of judgment and the maxims of experience ; instead of noting the progress of manu- factures, catching the first symptoms of improve- ment, and adapting the produce of his flock to the rising demand. From Arcadian plains indeed the too happy and unsuspicious swain has been driven by the brutal violence of a morose and phlegmatic conqueror ; but from the British fallows the lazy loungers, who after basking ail day upon the head- land, found it irksome in the evening “ to plod with’* heavy “ step their homeward way,” have been allur- ed 107 eel, not driven, to useful employments and social ha- bits. The calling of the shepherd is at length united with the pursuits of the naturalist, and the combina- tion of knowledge with laborious industry is doing much to improve the sheep of the British isles, to confirm the stability, and extend the circulation of their manufactures. The experiments directed by the genius of Bake well, and so happily seconded by the judgment, eloquence, fortune, influence and phi- lanthropy of the late Duke of Bedford, will long ren- der their names favorites of memory; while succeed- ing generations reap the benefit of their efforts in the improvement of flocks and the amelioration of their wool. So susceptible is the fleece of improvement that it most readily rewards the attention which is paid to it. If only freed from the thorns, burrs and filth, which it formerly collected from ill managed fallows, if it be nourished almost any where than upon balks, which produce little more than rushes or dry and in- sipid grass, and if it be relieved from those insects, which so often infect it and torment the sheep, it as- sumes a better appearance and becomes actually more useful. It is obvious to every one, who has observ- ed with the slightest attention, that dirt, leanness and disease, are as detrimental to brutes, as filth, poverty and hunger to human beings. After having determined what kind of wool the farm, which he occupies, is best calculated to afford, the sheep-master should endeavour to obtain from Ins flock the most perfect fleece, as uniform in every part of it as nature will admit. We see no reason why any person should be ambitious of raising in one flock, and especially upon the back of a single sheep, those various kinds of wool, which are adapted to manufactures 108 manufactures very different in their nature, and often placed very remotely from each other. In the old system of sheep farming this was a very common de- fect of the fleece, and is not entirely removed under the new one. I have never yet met with a single in- stance, in which a lock shorn from the buttocks of the animal was not greatly coarser than another, which had been taken from the shoulder, although in some cases they have borne a much nearer resemblance to each other than I once thought it possible to attain. There are fleeces, we are told, so uniformly alike through the whole extent that persons accustomed to observe wool, and even manufacturers, have been un- able to distinguish any difference in the fineness of the pile. When staples separated from different parts of the sheep have been presented to them, if any discrimination was made, they have sometimes pronounced that to be the best, which grew most re- mote from the vitals. Such is the description, which Dr. Parry gives us of the fleece of his new breed of sheep, obtained by combining the blood of the Spa- nish with that of the Ryeland race. The fact de- serves the attentive notice of the wool grower, for the advantages which would result from a single sheep producing only one kind of wool, and that equally fine from every part of the body are utterly incalcu- lable ; they are obvious to all. The possibility of procuring such a race seems to be ascertained by the facts just alluded to, and it is probable from the state in which we find the coats of other domestic animals. Every one, who remarks the condition of tue. fleece when offered to sale, is aware that a great num- ber of extraneous substances are mingled with the pile. The purest fleeces of Britain, which on ac- count 109 count of their excellent qualities might rank with those of almost any other country, are generally en- cumbered with yolk, sand, grass, pitch and even the excrement of the sheep. We know not whether it be possible for the grower to obtain his wool perfectly pure and undebased, without incurring an expence, which in many cases could not be reimbursed; per- haps spending more time and exercising more labour than would be compatible with the attention, which the more important duties of the farm require of him. Yet, without sacrificing his interest to unnecessary precision, it is desirable that the staple should ap- proach as near as possible to the state of absolute freedom from every thing that imposes a tax upon the manufacturer, or renders his employment more tedious and difficult. The yolk, which has been so intimately mingled with the pile through the whole period of its growth as to form with it a compact and almost impenetrable coat, does not compleatly separate itself from the wool by the mode of washing adopted in Britain, even though the operation be performed in the best constructed pool, and by the most careful workmen. The Spaniards, more aware of the advantages which result from the purity of the pile, shear their flocks • without subjecting them to the alarm, which agitates most quadrupeds when forcibly plunged into an ele- ment, for which nature and their habits render them peculiarly unfit. The staplers there break the fleece while in the yolk, and wash the sorts produced frotn it with a degree of care worthy the imitation of a British manufacturer ; and attain to a point of purity almost unknown in English fleeces. If the sheep be washed before shearing ever so perfectly, and the. utmost care 110 care be taken to preserve them clean during the in- terval between the two operations, the perspiration of the animal, when exposed to the fervour of the sun beams and oppressed by the weight of a coat better adapted to the winter months, mingling with the fleece, again debases its staple. English wool in the best state, in which I have ever observed it clipped from the back of the sheep, has contained about one- twelfth part -of its gross weight of this substance, im- portant to the fleece while growing, but of no value whatever in the process of manufacture; often it is mingled with one-eighth of its weight ; if heavily tarred, as in the north of the island, the quantity of pure wool seldom exceeds one-half; and in some cases is even considerably less than that. The very great difference of condition, in which British fleeces are brought to market, accounts in some measure for the variation of prices, which are often mentioned as the current rates of wool, in distant districts during the same season. To form any proper idea of its in- trinsic worth, and to obtain a well founded opinion of the relative value of our own fleeces, or those which are imported from other countries, it is neces- sary to reduce them to the standard of perfect pu- rity, to compare only wool with wool. That point is already determined by the treatment, to which wool is submitted while under the hands of the manufacturer. In some part^or other of the process, by far the larger proportion of the pile is scoured with soap and boiled in water; and when it will en- dure this operation, without losing a portion of its weight, we venture to pronounce it sufficiently clear of yolk for all the purposes of manufacture. The present mode of washing sheep in some parts of Ill of the kingdom, especially where water is scarce and the shepherds careless, instead of separating from the fleece all the sand, clay and other kinds of dirt, with which it is encumbered, supplies it with a still larger proportion. The inefficacy of plunging the sheep into stagnant water and muddy pools, of driving them two or three times through a rivulet rendered turbid by their passage, we should suppose is obvious to all ; and the inconvenience, which often arises from driving them while wet along dusty roads, of lodging them in that state upon dry fallows and sandy soils, is visible in the colour and the grittiness of the staple. ’Tis seldom that we examine a parcel of wool with- out finding more or less of those substances, which render it impure, and are thoroughly convinced that it is not always possible even for the most careful far- mer to prevent its contamination. The conduct of many graziers, who during the period in whch the fleece is preparing for the shearer’s office, watch it with unremitted attention, and endeavour to obtain their wool free from every alloy, is an annual re- proach upon those who seem to wash their flocks without any definite object, because it is the custom of the district where they live, and who neglect them entirely while their fleece is drying. The custom of marking sheep by means of melt- ed pitch or a mixture in which it forms the principal ingredient, is very detrimental to English wools, es- pecially the larger kinds; often rendering them abso- lutely incapable of being applied to the manufacture of worsted goods, their natural and appropriate desti- nation. It has long been complained of, and premi- ums offered for the discovery of a composition, which shall answer the same purposes without being inju- K rious 112 to the staple. The brand, as it is at present used, causes a great deal of trouble and some expence, for in the early stages of the manufacture it must be sepa- rated from the fleece, and boys are generally employ- ed in performing this service at the rate of a shilling or half a crown per week. The wages given for this work when not combined with any other, is com- monly about a farthing where employment is scarce, in other places a halfpenny, for every pound of branded wool. When a fleece has been rolled up, according to the usual and legal' method of winding every part of it is so distended, often so torn and mingled together, as to render it utterly impossible that the workman should spread it before him in its natural order. He is then obliged to spend a -great deal more time, than would otherwise have been ne- cessary, in examining every fragment which passes under his eye, and in searching for the pitch mark, which is always extended over a considerable space, and sometimes entangled with every other portion of the fleece. When separated from* the other parts he throws it to one general heap, which passes to the clipper, and when sufficiently cleaned, returns to himself, and undergoes a second time the opera- tion of sorting. But when sheep are not brand- ed with pitch, or any any other substance injurious to the staple ; none of this additional expence and labour is incurred, every part of the fleece goes oft' from the board to its proper sort, and is immediately ready for the manufacturer. Perhaps the best mode of preventing the inconvenience, which the brand occasions, would be to take it from the fleece before the sheep be shorn ; then it is easily found, is com- pact and might be separated from the wool with little trouble 113 trouble to the shearer, or inconvenience to the per- son who employs him. We are pleased to observe that of late years sheep are not commonly allowed to carry behind them those immense loads of their own excrement which so fre- quently disgraced the most verdant and beautiful of pastures. At present they are generally kept dean and unincumbered ; a symptom of their owner’s im- proving taste and humanity. Nor have the staplers so much reason to complain of those shameful decep- tions, which were once attempted to be practised upon them by rolling up a large quantity of the faeces with the fleece in order to increase its weight. At present, if deceptions are practised by the grower, they are commonly those of a more ingenious kind, such as he thinks will always remain undiscovered, or that the vestiges of them will be traced to some other cause than the moral turpitude of his disposition. Yet when we find a line of sand strewed along the unrolled fleece, or trace the evidences of its being wound in a moist state, circumstances which even a novice in sorting can distinguish ; when we notice that the parcel is piled upon a damp floor, in the north east corner of a barn far from the influence of the atmosphere and the sun, as though jealous of their evaporating power ; when we see these things we cannot help attributing them to some cause not al- ways accidental. And should such parcels be weigh- ed by the stapler with a little unusual dexterity the grower must not be severe, for one deception is insti- tuted only to counteract the effects of another, and it would be a mere chance which was most successful had not the stapler the advantage of being last player ; as such he is almost certain of winning the K 2 trick. 114 trick. But we plead not for deception; the man who stoops to use it is a villain, and his character oughtto be posted through society. In these enlightened times but few, we hope, are so destitute of honour and integrity, esteem the consciousness of virtue at so low a rate, and understand their interest so little, as to ask the favours of fortune by sacrificing at the shrine of dishonesty the first principles of social order. It is not probable that persons, whose attention is repeatedly called to the properties of wool, should be entirely ignorant of the readiness with which it im- bibes moisture, but perhaps few are aware of the tena- city with which it retains it. A quantity of wool, which betrayed no symptoms of an extraordinary de- gree of moisture, has been submitted to a strong de- gree of heat and dryed even to crispness. When ex- amined, being still warm, it was found to have lost one eighth part of its original weight, which it nearly recovered in a few days by being exposed only to the common influence of the atmosphere. Perhaps this disposition to attract moisture may be the cir- cumstance, which has led some to suppose that wool grows after it is separated from the sheep. The fact is not probable ; and the increase of weight, the only circumstance upon which the opinion rests, is easily accounted for upon more satisfactory principles. At the genial season when flocks are disburthened of their coat, and pay the annual tribute due for the protection and sustenance which they have received, it is common to collect them within some grassy in- closure near to their owner’s dwelling ; often within the precincts of Pomona, where with ruddy smile she ripens he* autumnal blessings. With the best inten- U5 tion tile superintendant of the busy scene directs that the sod be smooth)}’ shorn, but unsuspectingly produces by that means a vast variety of short bits of grass, which notwithstanding his utmost care attach themselves to the staple and are rolled up with the fleece. They do no material injury to the pile, but cause a great deal of trouble to some future work- man who picks them out of it ; for at some stages of the process, through which wool passes before it reach the consumer, they must be separated. If twisted into the thread and wrought with the sub- stance of the cloth they become the object of the burler’s notice, who leaves, for every particle which is extracted, a hole in the piece to be repaired at the fulling mill, or by the nicqr operation of the fine drawer. The trouble occasioned by the intermix- ture of dried vegetable particles with the wool is very considerable, whether they be collected from the weeds so commonly produced upon ill managed land, or from the hay, which owing to the usual structure of the rack, and by permitting the sheep to pull their fodder from the stack, or to crowd under it for shel- ter, drops >ts seed and smaller particles upon the fleece, especially that part which grows near to the head. The shepherds upon the Downs of Marl- borough, if I mistake not, have adopted the use of another kind of rack, whose structure promises to ob- viafce some of the objections made to the old one. Some of these circumstances may be considered as trifling ones, and beneath the attention of the wool grower. Perhaps we may be told, as we have been already, u that several of them are calculated to fur- nish employment for different classes of work people, who without it must become burthensome to the pa- K 3 fishes 116 rishes where they belong ; that the true reason why we object to the filth of the wool, its brand and the dag- locks, is the price at which they are purchased ; and that if the fleece were really rendered lighter and more valuable, by the absence of impurities, staplers would give no more per tod for it than if the parcel had been in a fouler state.” ’Tis wonderful to observe with what an air of sapience these remarks are some- times adduced ; and when disdaining to reply to them because it is impossible to communicate discernment to stupidity, or to derive information from prejudice, the triumph over us has been undisguised, and some- times followed by the loud laugh of ignorance. But of late years wool-growers have been better instruct- ed in the principles connected with their occupation, have ventured to dispute the wisdom of their great- grandfather’s maxims, and to differ from antiquated practice. Some of them are now convinced that every expence which the stapler and even the manu- facturer incurs, whether it be on account of waste, carriage or labour, falls ultimate^ upon themselves. They admit this most obvious of commercial max- ims, viz. that the price, which the consumer pays for an article, is upon anaverage of years neither less nor greater, than the sum which forms the total of the prime cost of the materials, the expences incurred in manufacturing them, and the reasonable profit of those whosecapital and skill are employed inthefabri- cation. If therefore, while the price of goods conti- nues the same, and the unavoidable expences in pro- ducing them vary ; if there be any alteration in the total sum, whose items we have just described, then the surplus, or the deficiency must be placed to the account of the farmer, and his pocket will undoubt- edly 117 edly receive the one or be obliged to famish the other. This position would be most abundantly verified, did it require any confirmation, by adverting to the his- tory of the woollen manufacture only during the last twenty years. It is the interest therefore of the wool-grower to contrive by every possible means to reduce the necessary expences of the manufacturer, to send his wool to market in that condition, which will require the least time and labour to return it in articles adapted to the common purposes of life. No circumstance connected with this object can be trifling. No measure calculated to attain it can be unworthy of notice. It is not possible that a person of common sense should really suppose that the sta- pler purchases dirt and impurities of any kind, which happen to be combined with a parcel of wool, at the price given for the staple. In appreciating fleeces, the waste, carriage and expences of every kind must be objects of calculation ; they form a sum to be deducted from the intrinsic value of the fleece if in a pure state, and both manufactured and consum- ed upon the spot where it is grown. The farmer then, who sends filthy wool to market, transports ma- nure, which might be well applied upon Ids own land. He sends it to the fields, sometimes of far distant counties, and pays for the carriage of it thither an extravagant price. In the management of wool, especially if we would obtain it in a perfect state, the time of shearing though not of prime importance is a circumstance deserving of some attention. It has frequently been:, asserted that the fleece, if left entirely to the opera- tions of natural causes, detaches itself from the skin of the sheep, and falls off, leaving the animal cover- ed 118 ©cl with a short and soft down, which proves to be the new coat in the incipient stage of its growth. The effect takes place during the prevalence of hot wea- ther, and may justly be considered as one mark of that wisdom by which the Creator, always provident for the comfort of his creatures, has distinguished every part of his works. Yet the decidence of the fleece does not appear to be a characteristic feature of the tribe, an universal law to which all sheep are subject, because some individuals have been observed to retain their coat through two whole years, a few have carried it even through three summers. We are not aware that this faculty of retaining the fleece is entirely confined to an)? particular breed of sheep ; it has been noticed in several of the English varieties, both those of the native stock and mingled with a fo- reign race, and the fact is not entirely unknown either in Spain or in Germany. Nor is it a quality common to every individual. The breeds producing the finer kinds of wool often peel or loose a portion of their coat early in the spring, and before the sum- mer had passed would probably part with the whole of it in the same manner, did not man interpose and appropriate to his own use that covering, which has become superfluous to the quadruped. The pile of the long-wooled sheep seems to be much more firmly attached to the pelt than that of the other breeds, for if the animal be kept in good condition, and in good health, throughout the whole period when the wool is growing, and if well attended by the shepherd, so as to promote its comfort, there is no symptom of a disposition to cast the fleece ; it is retained, if the staple be any criterion, with equal firmness through the coldest and the hottest seasons, while those sheep, which 119 ■which have been kept upon commons all the winter, or even in enclosures upon hard fare, will part with it very easity, when the food becomes more plentiful, and the condition of the animal is restored to its na- tural state. When the flesh of the creature lias de- clined during the winter months, and nature demands more nourishment than can be procured, the secre- tion which produces w r oo! seems to be destroyed, or applied to other purposes of nature, and the fleece which has been deprived of it, appears incapable of re-imbibing in the spring the renewed juices, but remains upon the pelt through the succeeding months, merely a dead substance ; and when the na- tural juices are again secreted, they form a new fleece, which gradually displaces the old one. Pro- bably at first, the new hairs are produced from a scanty yolk, for they are almost uniformly pointed, and grow gradually thicker, untill they occupy the whole diameterof the pores through which the}' pass. If the low condition of the sheep be connected with the decadence of the fleece, and the real cause of it ; and since none of the double fleeces exhibit any symptoms of an unhealthy state, or a low degree of flesh during the whole period of their growth ; it seems probable that every sheep, if proper care were taken of it, would retain its coat. Appearances observed in the fleeces, which have grown through two or three successive years, render it probable that the staple ultimatelr attains its maxi- mum of length ; but whether it would continue upon the back of the sheep, or detach itself from the pelt, giving place to a new pile, which would continue to grow through the same length of time, and then like the preceding coat become useless to the animal and be 120 be laid aside, we know not. No experiments that I have yet heard of, have been instituted to ascertain the point, nor have we been sufficiently curious in England to note the progress of the growing pile in the different seasons of the year. M. Fink, of Cositz, in Saxony, has communicated to the Board of Agriculture, an excellent paper upon the subject of sheep, and observes “ that by clipping them twice a year, a practice common in Germany, one tenth more wool is gained than by clipping them only once ; that a sheep clipped once in two years ; will certainly give one-third less wool than if it had been clipped four times in two years, and a sheep shorn once in three years, will furnish but half the wool it would have given, if it had been clipped six times in three years.” M. Fink adds, 66 the longer the wool the less quickly it grows, till at last, when it has attained the length appointed by nature, it entirely stops and does not grow longer.” Unfortunately this intelligent wool-grower, who has detailed his observa- tions in general with a great degree of precision and perspicuity, has not informed us whether the diffe- rent proportions, which he has given us, of the fleece grown through one, two, or three years, be deduced from the weight, or measure of the staple. If from the former, was the wool washed, or in an impure state? If weighed in the yolk, the proportions which have been stated, may be very erroneous ; because the fleece which has grown through more than one winter, exposed to the moisture of the season, may have lost a very considerable quantity of that yolk, which it would have retained, had it been shorn at two separate periods. This very curious paper, although unsatisfactory upon this particular point, deserves m deserves the closest attention. It relates facts in the natural history of the sheep not commonly met with ; and intimates that the wool of the larger German breed, attains its utmost length when continued upon the back about four years, and even then exhibits no more symptoms of separating from the skin, than the hair does of falling after the same period of growth from the human head. It furnishes data from which we infer that the utmost length of staple pro- duced from that race of sheep is about thirteen in- ches, and leads us to conjecture that with proper care, every animal of the species might be rendered capable of retaining its coat through any length of time deemed convenient. Hence it appears that the time of shearing, if the Hock be in a healthy condition, maybe regulated entirely by the will of the shepherd, and the kind of wool, which he found it most adviseable to cultivate. If the prejudices of the country would admit of it, and the manufacture required a very short and deli- cate staple, such would be easily procured by shear- ing the fleece at two different seasons. The wool which had grown through the winter quarter, if we may judge from the prices given for it by foreign manufacturers, who are accustomed to work both the spring and the autmnal fleece, would be more valu- able than that, which is produced only in the warmer season. But the difference in price is more than com- pensated by the additional quantity of wool ; and for several years it was observed, when the price of the article was advancing, that the autumnal fleece in Germany sold for more money than that which had been shorn and disposed of in the spring of the year. Most of the breeds of ffne^wooled sheep in Britain, it 122 it should be recollected also, produce a staple com- plained of by those who fabricate it into woollen cloths, on account of its exorbitant length ; a defect which would be most effectually remedied by clipp- ing it more frequently. But in this country where woollen manufactures are established most various in their nature and object, and not less so in the mate- rial they require, the sheers must be used with ex- treme caution. A large proportion of the British fleeces would be intirely spoiled, if separated from the animal oftener than once in the season. The worsted manufactures almost universally demand W'ool of twelve months growth; the hose trade could scarcely subsist without it ; and some portion of the pile yielded by the finest of our flocks, is so tender as to require its utmost length, in order that it may pass without injury through the process of carding and of fulling. Yet there are numerous fleeces, whose good qualities I am persuaded would become more conspicuous if shorn more frequently, and whose particular destination in the course of manu- facture does not forbid it. If it be possible also to procure a race of sheep distinguished for the fineness of its pile, and capable of retaining its coat through two summers, a ready Tvay is pointed out of obtaining long wool of a far superior quality to any that has hitherto been pro- duced ; such perhaps as would enable our worsted manufacturers to rival the envied beauty of the In- dian shawl, and to imitate the most delicate textures of cotton and of silk. The mere possibility of produc- ing such a kind of wool, should rouse the attention of the gentlemen in Norwich. They are best able to describe the purposes to which it would be appli- cable ; 1 23 cable ; the immense value of such a manufacture, in a country situated as ours is; and to point out the intrinsic value of a fleece which must far exceed that of all common productions. Yet in speaking of a material so uncommon and so valuable, it is not necessary to hint at the possibility of procuring it ; already the blood of the Merino race, with its soft attenuated pile but litte debased, has so far affected some individual fleeces, both in Britain andinSaxony, as to fit them for the fabrication of worsted goods, possessing a delicacy of texture suitable to the most sanguine expectation. But if the character or condition of the flock be such as renders it probable that the fleece will loosen from the skin during the prevalence of hot weather, then nature herself points out the proper time for shearing it. Yet, when sheep produce wool sufficiently short to meet the wishes of the manu- facturer, the operation should be deferred, at least if no particular advantage to the animal is to be obtain- ed by clipping it sooner, until the new coat appear like a line downy substance mingled with the bottom of the staple ; for this being shorn with the old fleece renders the pile more suitable to the manufacture of woollen cloths. It is naturally soft, fine and un- elastic ; contributes to the delicacy, solidity and strength of the thread into which it is twisted ; and can be brought to display upon the surface of the cloth the superiority of its qualities. In the blunt language of the clothier, who often expresses his ideas in very appropriate, though not always in the most elegant terms, wool of this description is distinguished by the epithets foody and flowery: words imme- L d lately 124 diately conveying to an English ear, a conviction of the high estimation in which such fleeces are held. In large wool, that which is applied to the manu- facture of worsted goods, a portion of the incipient coat is of no value, because it would be completely separated from the longer part of the pile by the first process through which it passes. This division of the longer from the shorter hair is one of the chief purposes, to which the comb is adapted. In all those articles also, though produced from long wool, which are wrought with the carding machine after the manner of woollen cloth, where the principal object is to procure a long and well formed knap, this short and downy substance cannot be of essential service. Large wool therefore should be shorn so soon as the staple is sufficiently long to answer those purposes, for which the manufacturer intends it. Should the grower find it difficult to determine this point from his own judgment, his stapler, if he be a man of ob- servation and liberality of sentiment, will most readily inform him. Some very humane people have railed loudly at the barbarous custom of pulling the fleece from the back of the sheep, instead of separating it by the use of shears. Indulging the imagination too freely, they have given vent to the sympathetic sentiments of their hearts, in language admirably adapted to rouse every indignant passion against the cruel tor- mentors of a creature so meek and helpless. They describe its agonies under the operation in terms which make the spirit bleed, and render it almost ambitious of emulating apostolic fame, by travel- ling among these rude barbarians to teach them the first principles of humanity. Yet while we venerate the feelings, from which such descriptions proceed, we 125 we can scarcely avoid smiling at the caricature which they exhibit, recollecting that the practice is adopted only where the sheep detach their fleece every return- ing summer, aud that the operation is performed at a season, when it is so loosely affixed to the animal, as to be separated almost with a touch ; that a great part of it has already been left among the thickets where the sheep has broused, or upon the rude hillocks where it reclined ; and that the office of these violent hands is sometimes rendered unnecessary by the pressure of the sheep against each other, vffien the flock is driven into a narrow compass. The shears however are useful instruments, by their assis- tance a careful workman both separates the wool with- out giving the smallest pain, and collects that portion of the fleece, which without them would have been scattered among the shrubs, or lost upon the wastes. The late Empress of Russia introduced twenty foreig- ners into her dominions, to teach her subjects how to perform this humane and simple operation. Such are some of the principal objects in the management of the fleece, to which every shepherd’s attention should be directed, who is ambitious of sending his wool to market in the most desireable condition, tie should particularly remark its uni- formity of pile, its purity, and perfection of growth. There are other circumstances connected with the management of the sheep, to which the production of fine wool has often been attributed, and for that reason they demand our notice. It was formerly considered as absolutely necessary that the sheep, from whose sides the most valuable wool was expected, should quit the pastures, which had nourished them during the winter season, and L 2 travel 126 travel toothers situated in a more northern or ele- vated region. It was remarked that the flocks of Spain, which spend the shortest days upon thesunny plains of Estramadura, Seville and Cordova, the longer upon the mountains of Castile and Leon, and the intermediate ones in passing from one station to the other, produced a much finer pile than those which had not been subjected to the fatigue of two long journies in the course of that period, which is commonly deemed necessary to the perfection of their fleece. Without adverting to other causes, the dif- ference was sometimes attributed entirely to the motion necessarily arising from one system of ma- nagement, and the stationary state resulting from the other ; and it was deemed impossible to produce in countries, which have no such extensive wastes, and variety of climate as Spain possesses, and where the institutions of society prevented such an exchange of pasture as is allowed to her flocks, a covering equally excellent. But when this breed of sheep was convey- ed to France, it was soon discovered that this system of management was not necessary, either to the health of the flock, or the perfection of its wool. In Saxony and England the experiment has been re- peated with equal success, and in Sweden the Spanish race instead of travelling to distant moun- tains for the purposes of fatigue or a change of climate, remain within doors through more than half the. year, and still preserve the goodness of their coats. Indeed the notion that travelling and fatigue are necessary to the production of fine wool is almost exploded ; it would be highly improper to impose them upon the heavier kind of sheep, for b}' injuring the health of the animal, or reducing its flesh, they would 127 would certainly contribute to the deterioration of thfe fleece. The lighter and more restless animals take a great deal of exercise, ramble far over the Downs, and very commonly produce a fleece of superior quality ; but the fineness of the pile is the resuit of blood, it has no more connection with fatigue than with the length or form of the tail, or the existence of the horns ; both these and the fleece may be changed at pleasure. In countries where the finer wools are produced, some have observed that the shepherds inclose their sheep every night in buildings reared for this pur- pose, and to this circumstance attribute the superi- ority of the fleece. Doubtless every attention which contributes to the health and comfort of the animal tends to improve its pile. But cotes were not erected with this particular view ; they W'ere first adopted when the beasts of prey prowling near the pasture and the building disturbed and endangered the flock, and are now resorted to chiefly in countries where these animals remain, or have been but lately extir- pated : in some others, they are made use of from mere habit. The practice of cotting sheep, having been adopted by their forefathers, a few of the pre- sent race of shepherds for that reason continue it ; ■while others, who have observed its effects with more attention, have both praised and censured the custom. But to crowd a large number of sheep together in alow damp and close building, although the fleece may possibly derive some advantage from the superior quantity of yolk w hich is furnished, must frequently be attended with the most pernicious con- sequences. Sometimes in the course of a single night, hundreds of the flock have been lost by suffocation; L 3 and 128 and it must be always dangerous to turn out the sheep from these steaming prisons, poisonous as the dun- geon of Calcutta, exposed to the chilliness of the morning air. That animal must derive his blood from the most hardy of progenitors, which can en- dure treatment like this without suffering a con- traction of its pores, and a consequent injury to the wool. The French observing that cotting of sheep has done harm when injudiciously managed, recommend that the cotes be large and airy, and that the flocks be kept within them until the dew is evaporated from the ground ; or in plainer language they desire us not to expose the flock to the extremes of beat and of cold, or to sudden transitions from one to the other. If managed with due care cotting may doubtless be made subservient to the goodness of the fleece by preserving the health of the sheep, promot- ing'^the regular production of the yolk, and prevent- ing the destruction of it by the beat of the sun and the dripping showers of heaven. But in all cases where it injures the sheep it must be detrimental to the fleece. The use of artificial grasses in the new mode of farming, which has been so generally adopted in most parts of the kingdom, was often assigned as one principal cause of the degeneracy, which has been observed in wool, in those instances where a dis- trict has changed the peculiarities of its fleeces. The pernicious effects of clover, coleseed and turnips, were a few years ago the common themes of those manufacturers and staplers, who found that the fleeces which they had been accustomed to purchase and to use had been almost banished from the dis- tricts where their connections were formed. With- out out considering that the cultivation of these plants enabled the farm to carry a heavier kind of stock, and that the shepherd in consequence of this was i*n- duced to alter the constitution of his sheep, they at- tributed to the mer s e succulency of the grass that which was really the effect of blood. They could not but observe the alteration, which the fleece had undergone, they could not but lament it because the pile was sometimes rendered unsuitable to tlse pur- pose for which they wanted it ; although in some cases, considered merelv as the production of a farm whence the grower must derive -a profit, or as a fleece adapted to some other branch of the manufac- ture, it had been greatly improved. If a district into which the new husbandry was introduced had for- merly produced long wooj, suited to the worsted ma- nufactures, it became stronger and better adapted to the violence of the comb ; and if the finer fleeces had usually been afforded there, the pile was more mel- low, soft and valuable. The alteration was most severely felt by those who had purchased the smaller and finer kinds of combing wool, adapted to the hose trade, and those small fleeces produced upon the commons which abounded even in the richest dis- tricts, and were used in the fabrication of woollen cloths. It is desirable that in all improvements in the system of agriculture, especially those calculated to enrich the soil and furnish a burger quantity of food for sheep with less labour and fatigue to them, that the wool-grower should take pains to improve the pile of his old flock rather than introduce a new one upon his farm. The former is already required by some established manufacture and will become better adapted to it, but the other may be very unsuit- able 130 able to the demands of trade and the wants of the neighbouring staplers ; and if every alteration of the stock tended to make the wool coarser or longer, the general produce of the kingdom must degenerate. It is most certainly desirable that every farm should be stocked with the kind of sheep most suit- able to the quality of the land ; but flocks have often been noticed, which seem to betray some want of attention on the part of the wool-grower to this material circumstance. Sometimes he has been ob- served attempting to produce a weighty fleece upon soils naturally poor and thin, and which afford a sup- ply of food so scanty as to require a degree of labour to procure it not reasonably to be expected from heavy tempered and overburdened animals. The most remarkable instance of incongruity betwixt the fleece and the soil, which I ever observed, was near to the road, which passes from Downham in Norfolk to Brandon. The pasture was one of the thinnest kind, and the flock evidenly a mongrel breed, in which the blood of the Norfolk race was mingled with that of the heavy polled sheep frequently found in some of the neighbouring marshes. Perhaps the farmer might possess a quantity of richer land to which this breed of sheep was well adapted, and that it was merety an accidental circumstance which oc- casioned them to be observed upon a soil so thin and unproductive; it* behoves us therefore to suspend our censures and to give the shepherd credit for a more considerable degree of judgment than he ap- peared to possess. We can seldom observe the con- verse of this case, because small fleeces when grown upon rich soils are generally improved by them, and we suppose that the shepherd will always stock his land in the full proportion that it will carry. Plenty health 131 health and ease we repeat are alwaysfavourable to the fleece, but hunger, illness and excessive fatigue are calculated to destroy it. Surely from ail the varieties of sheep, which exist in the island, a breed might be, procured adapted to the circumstances of every farm. The grazier who possesses one suited to his own land should prize it very highly, and be careful lest he increase the weight of his fleece more rapidly than he improve the quality of the pasture. Frequently we And wool which has been evident- ly produced without a sufficient supply of those nu- tricious juices, which render the pile close, pliable and soft; and the mixture sometimes used as a reme- dy for this defect, and which on some accounts is a very excellent substitute, produces effects upon the staple which render it less fit for the process of ma- nufacture. The oil which the mixture contains is most certainly useful, but the tar, a dirty and tenaci- ous substance, adheres to the wool so closely as fre- quently to corrode the hair, rendering the part to which it was immediately applied thin, rough and weak. When affected by the filthy custom of smear- ing, the pile is less capable of acquiring the softer and more delicate tints, which it is so often desirable to communicate to the different articles of the wool- len manufacture. A portion of that dirt, which it obstinately retains through every previous process, is dissolved amongst the ingredients of the djdng vat, and disqualifies them for communicating that vivid lustre, which they would have afforded to a purer wool, even though the artist supply his pans with a much larger proportion of the colouring materials. In the subsequent processes of the manufacture, this filthy staple produces much greater inconvenience, and is subject to more considerable waste than the purer 132 purer pile, even though we make every reasonable allowance for the weight of dirt which it obviously contains; in the jenny and the loom, the machines employed in spinning and weaving it, more dexterity and patience are required of the work-people, and the cloth which it produces is inferior in its quality, and smaller in quantity, than might have been obtained from the same pile in a pure state. These objections to tar, when it is applied to wool as a substitute for the yolk of the sheep, are collected chiefly from the clothier’s account of it, and appear abundantly suf- ficient to prompt him to require a less pernicious mix- ture. The only circumstance which can be mention- ed as a counterbalance to these objections is the consistency which it gives to oil or other greasy sub- stances, with which it is mingled, whereby they are retained among the pile, although exposed to the heat of the animal and the detersive influence of the rain. But if it be desirable in all substitutes of this kind to imitate as nearly as possible the combinations of nature, we should apply to the growing pile a thick coating of soap in all cases where the sheep is incapable from the peculiarity of its constitution of yielding a sufficient quantity of j T olk to secure a va- luable fleece. To this the shepherd will most reason- ably object the heavy expence to which such an ap- plication of an highly taxed article, if not entitled to the legal drawback, would subject him, and the great readiness with which it would separate from the fleece when moistened by the showers or the dew. It mi ■I Oft ■ I'toT 149 diseernable by every untaught eye, and most espe^ eially deserves the notice of the grower. He will find specimens of the inferior "kind most frequent in fleeces which have been shorn from a sheep, the pro- duce of very dissimilar progenitor's. No means have yet been discovered of communi- cating this peculiarly valuable and nameless pro- perty to wool, in which it does not naturally subsist. We depend therefore upon the breeder alone to pro- cure it, and are solicitous that in the various combi- nations of blood, which he is continually forming in his flock, that he should not loose sight of one of the distinguishing characteristics of wool, and that he should promote this as well as every other valu- able quality with the utmost care. In a country where the carcase of the sheep is more valuable than its pile, and where the cultivation of wool is at most only the secondary object of the farmer’s care, it is desirable to render the blood as perfect as possible, in order that we may obtain from it without labour even the minute excellencies of wool. But in Bucha- ria, where the shepherd is more solicitous about the fleece than the health or even the life of his sheep, artificial means are used to produce something like this shrivelling property, deemed so valuable in these western regions. There the lamb so soon as it is yeaned, is wrapped in linen bandages, is exposed to the sun and has water pouredmpon it every day. As it increases in size, the fiilets are gradually loosened, yet so as to preserve at all times a considerable pres- sure upon the wool. By these means the pile is com- pressed to the skin, and assumes a waved or damasked appearance, which is esteemed its supreme excel- lency. If it could be supposed that this compressure N 2 * of 150 of the fleece produces that kind of crumpledness, which is considered as an excellent quality in English wool, the process would be too expensive and trouble- some for our shepherds, and the superior price for which such wool could be sold not adequate to re- imburse them. But it is most probable that we should And, if we had oportunities of examining’the Bucha- rian fleece, that it was not at all more adapted to the woollen manufacture than it would have been, had no such pains been taken with it. Most of the wool produced at present in these kingdoms is too long for the perfect operation of the card, and the first process through which it passes after it has left the hands of the stapler is calculated to shorten it. This is the precise object of the structure and the use of the first engines, to which the pile is submitted. But the grower has a much more ready and less expensive remedy in his power ; for he can easily cultivate a race of sheep whose coat shall be sufficiently short for the nicest purpose, or he can shear it more frequently than once ayear, even before it has attained half its length. Yet he should be very careful how he adopts a measure of this kind, for he will observe that the wool of the second clip- ping of one season will not be exactly like that which he procured at the other. Although somewhat in- ferior in quality, in the hand of an expert manu- facturer it may be applied to excellent purposes. If inclined to try the experiment, which is by no means a new one, the shepherd will naturally consider whether the state of his flock, the nature of the sea- son, and the climature of his farm will admit of it. The wool intended for the manufacture of worsted goods of any description, is first reduced to a proper state 151 state for spinning by means of the comb, an instru- ment very different from the card, both in its struc- ture and operation. It consists chiefly of a piece of wood shaped very much like the letter T. Through the head or transverse part of it, which is generally about three incheshroad, a number of very long sharp teeth are thrust. They are finely tapered, made of well tempered steel, and generally arranged in three rows about thirty in each, and placed nearly at right angles to every part of the wood. The handle of the comb is represented by the perpendicular part of the letter. In using this instrument, the wool is care- fully hung upon the teeth in such a manner as to project over the front of the head; when sufficiently filled and firmly fixed, another comb of the same kind is drawn through the wool so as to unravel and lay each hair of it smooth and even. If we consider the full comb as the human head disgraced by a quan- tity of neglected, Jong and dishevelled hair, which we reduce to its natural and elegant order, we shall have a very just idea of the operation and the use of this instrument in the worsted manufacture. The very name shows its origine, application and use. But the comb is used for another purpose than merely to lay the pile straight and even ; for the staple of long wool commonly contains a consider- able number of hairs shorter than the generality of those which compose the fleece, and also a number of long ones which are tied in natural and indissolu- ble knots, highly prejudical when wrought into the worsted threads. These are collected by the pro- cess of combing betwixt the teeth of the instrument, and by a very curious and dexterous mode adopted to strip the comb of its longer pile, the workman N 3 . leaves 152 leaves them there until he has disposed of the long clear and valuable wool extracted by his fingers, and which from an old English word most aptly denoting the shape he has given to it, is denominated a sliver. When the instrument is cleared from the knots or noil, it is ready to repeat the operation. The comb therefore evidently requires that the wool, to which it is applied, possess sufficient length to permit its arrangement upon the teeth, strength or toughness enough to endure without being broken the muscular force necessary to draw the instrument through it, and such a degree of curvedness as will enable it to form a close and compact sliver. Even to this day the comb is almost in its simple state, very few alterations have been made either in its structure or dimensions from the time when it was brought into Europe ; and perhaps this is the princi- pal reason why we find so little difference in the hair of long fleeces with respect to its fineness. By far the greater proportion of this kind of wool produced in England, when the pile is accurately measured, varies only about the two hundredth part of an inch. The diameter of the hair is seldom larger than the space denoted by an unit when the inch is divided by six hundred; it is commonly not finer than that measure di- vided by eight hundred ; a very small quantity selected from fleeces of a shorter description, and submitted to the operation of the comb, will reach a thousand. To manufacture fine wool by means of this instrument, its structure must be less coarse, the teeth finer, shorter and placed more nearly together ; the “load” applied to them considerably smaller, and should be wrought by a less nervous arm. But t he manufacturers of worsted yarn are the best qualified to decide upon con- jectures 153 jectures of this nature, and I presume not to trespass upon their peculiar province, being satisfied with expressing an idea worthy of attention and calculat- ed I hope to excite it. In general if there be a de- mand for yarn of a finer quality than is commonly pro- duced, and for goods of a superior texture, manu- facturers, unless chargeable with a culpable want of commercial spirit, are always ready to seek, and de- termined if possible to obtain the one and to fabricate the other. When this laudable zeal is excited and encouraged, the raw materials necessary to the per- fection of the articles in demand are speedily either procured from abroad, or produced at home, and instruments adapted to the completion of the fabrics are improved or invented. Yet it seems to be peculiarly difficult to apply the powers of mechanism to the manufacture of the finer sorts of worsted yarn, for although long since em- ployed in the fabrication of almost every article of woollen goods, and even adopted with considerable success in spinning the coarser numbers of worsteds, yet the comb and the Catherine wheel are the only instruments to this day employed to furnish the more attenuated threads. Perhaps the very nice adjustment of the comber’s muscles when he draw's the sliver, and the adaptation of the spinner’s motion to the length and the tenuity of the pile, when she extends her thread, require a dexterity, the result of habit rather than of judgment, which is not compatible with the unvaried action of an unin* telligent machine. It is necessary that the combing wools of our country possess some degree of curvature, or dispo- sition to contract the length of the pile, for without it the 154 the workman could not form his sliver; but it is not desirable that this property should greatly prevail- The reason why long wool should differ so essentially from the pile of shorter fleeces will be easily under- stood, if we attend to the operation of the spinning wheel. In twisting a woollen thread, where the staple has been previously broken and the fragments of it, in the utmost disorder, are united only by their natural hooked ness, the turning of the wheel rolls them together without arrangement, and when placed in every possible direction. But in spinning a worsted thread, where every hair has been previously disposed by the side of others in the most regular order, the pile is drawn out in the direction of its length, every single hair being parallel to all those which lie near it, and is twisted in a spiral form, something like the threads of a compound screw. If those hairs contracted their length in any con- siderable degree, they could not be correctly arang- ed nor drawn out in that regular order, which the work requires, but would be twisted into the thread in an irregular and crumpled form ; a circumstance injurious to the yarn, and to the goods which are made from it. This general account of the different processes through which wool passes in the first stages of the manufacture, I trust, will be intelligible to every one, and sufficient to convince the grower that the good qualities of the fleece are not of a capricious kind ; that wool cannot be employed arbitrarily to any pur- pose which the manufacturer may choose, but that nature points out its peculiar destination ; that the workman is obliged to take the raw material with all its defects, and apply it to uses for which it is best adapted 1 55 adapted, although he observe in it qualities which injure his fabrics, and lament that it is not possible for his utmost skill and industry to counteract their effects. Thus situated, he looks anxiously to the grower for assistance, as to the only person who can change the properties of the fleece, and produce a perfect staple, most reasonably supposing that his wants should be attended to and his wishes grati- fied. Perhaps the independent spirit of the ma_- nufacturer might be mortified, if we hinted that he is the workman of the shepherd, or we could ask the farmer if he be not extremely solicitous to sow good seed, in order that he may furnish the miller and the meaiman with a prime article, while he is reproachfully careless of the quality of that commodity, with which he supplies the comber, the spinner and the weaver. The length of pile suited to the comb is upwards of four inches. The hose trade requires a consider- able share of that which measures from four inches to eight, and the longer kind is usually destined to the fabrication of worsted yarn ; an article which admits of very great variety in the mode of its manufacture. The shorter staple is applicable to woollen goods of almost every description, which beside the whole quantity of this sort of fleeces produced at home, require very large importations from abroad ; and no inconsiderable quantity of that pile which has been grown to the length of combing wool is submitted to the operation of the card. ’Tis chiefly that how- ever which possesses the contracting property in too great a degree ; which is too weak for the comb, or is used to produce articles requiring along and well- raised knap. Graziers 158 Graziers are able to increase the length of staple by various means. Most of them having been men- tioned already, it will be sufficient here barely to repeat them. The management of the breed is not only the most natural and easy method, but that also which is most usually adopted. Its effects are more per- manent than others, which are sometimes resorted to, but less pure from deleterious influence; for it is notnn- frequently observed that the ram communicating to his offspring an increased length of staple, gives to it also a coarser pile. Feeding the sheep upon the richer grasses, upon turnips and oil cake, thus forcing both the carcase and the fleece, seems to be a method of increasing the length of wool free from contaminating influence, but requires the animal to be constantly supported, even to the point of luxurious feeding ; and the effects of the system remain no longer than it is continued. Another method of increasing the length of the staple pointed out by nature, but seldom, perhaps never adopted with this particular design, is to keep the wool upon theback of the sheep through two whole years ; it requires only care that the ani- mal be not injured by cold or by hunger, during the period that the fleece is growing. Judging from my own limited acquaintance with the state of the worsted manufacture, it appears de- sirable that wool-growers should furnish a larger quan- tity both of those coarse and heavy fleeces wffiich are adapted to the manufacture of the inferior arti- cles ; and also of that superfine staple, which is ap- plicable to Crape, Bombazine, Shawls, and some of the other delicate textures of the Norwich loom. It is greatly to be wished that the delicacy of these fabrics could be carried to a higher degree of per- fection^ 157 fcction, and that every effort should be made for the adaptation of the modern machinery to yarn of a superior quality. If this could be effected, it would contribute more perhaps than any other circumstance j to the revival of our worsted manufactures; would enable them to rival some of the costly fabrics of India; and more successfully to resist the overbear- ing influence of cotton goods. We do not wish to recommend measures calculated to diminish the ma- j nufacture of even this foreign material, or to impede its progress, but cannot without regret observe || that it prevails to the absolute destruction of a taste for worsted fabrics. The pliability of wool is another of those qualities I in the staple, which deserve the closest attention of the shepherd, being esteemed by the manufacturer an essential property. All inflexible and brittle substances are evidently unfit for many of the opera- tions, through which wool must pass before it can be brought to that finished state of manufacture, which is intimately connected with the comfort and the ele- gance of life. It is impossible to produce from them a long extended thread, whose tenuity and compact- ness shall fit it for the action of the loom, the fulling : mill and the press. Indeed for many articles of the woollen manufacture the pile cannot possess too much pliability, if it does not loose that tendency to contract j its length and assume a crumpled form, which we have already described as one of the best qualities of the shorter staples. In the finer specimens of the Spanish wool, these two properties are admirably :! adjusted, the curvature of the pile is most delicate (> and true, its plastic quality is extolled to almost pro- verbial triteness; but the staple of most British fleeces is 158 is complained of as stubborn and elastic, counteract- ing the effects, which the spinning wheel should pro- duce, and rendering the thread loose and bristly. Yet it must be recollected that woollen articles re- quire a great variety in the degrees of elasticity, possessed by the wool from which they are made. Those designed to withstand the extreme rigours of the winter season, such as blankets and fearnoughts, as well as shags and some sorts of carpeting, re- quire a very large proportion of it, such as will enable the workman to form a long and swelling knap ; but in the finer and thinner fabrics, whose surface is in- tended to be highly polished, a great degree of elas- ticity is very injurious. It always causes these sub- stances to feel hard and prickly, because the ends of the hair starting from the body of the thread, and projecting from the surface of the cloth, affect the sense of feeling exactly like an immense number of short acute points fixed there. In finishing goods of almost every description, both of woollens and worsteds, excepting those already mentioned, the re- duction of this extreme elasticity is one object among others of the workman’s care. For this purpose lie employs the shears, the singing stoves and the press with its heated plates, and is able by these aids united with great industry to form a furface smooth, soft and glossy ; but the effect he produces upon strongly elastic wool is little more than temporary, since moisture restores its former stubbornness, and deprives it of that gloss which had been impressed upon it. The effect of heat upon wool is very singular, for when applied in a moderately high degree, it seems to furnish the pile with the power of expanding itself, as though it excited a mutual repulsion betwixt the hairs 159 hairs of which the staple is composed, and is often made use of in the processes of the woollen and worsted manufactures with great advantage, and when united with pressure it serves to fix the pile in the artificial direction which is given to it; an effect familiarly illustrated by the curling irons of the friseur. The adjustment of this neglected property may be recommended to the wool-grower’s attention with great proprietjr, because if we may judge from some of the fleeces produced by the most celebrated breeds, it is as much connected with the blood of the animal as any other quality which can be communi- cated from the parents to the offspring, and is a very weighty consideration when we are estimating the perfection of the pile. The short account before given of the manner in which wool is combed, and of the effect which the card is intended to produce upon it, will convey to those who have not been familiar with these processes, some idea of the value of a proper degree of toughness in the pile. If the staple be weak and easily broken asunder, it will not be able to endure the force which is necessary to drag the comb through it. Breaking to pieces in the operation, the fragments, collect in the instrument and form only a noil, an article of no use in the fabrication of worsteds. The grazier may easily perceive when his combing wool is too weak, for if the staple break when strongly pulled with the fingers of both hands, he may always conclude that it is ill adapted to the manufacture of worsteds, and most commonly rendered totally unfit for it. If he attempt to promote the growth of a superior kind of long wool, it is of the utmost consequence that he notice the strength and soundness of the staple ; for O if 160 if the fleeces, which he has cultivated with care and whose length of pile he has increased, be not suffi- ciently strong for the comb, he has not only failed to attain his object, but has greatly injured his wool. Peculiar care is necessary also, when the proprietor 1 of a long-woolled flock attempts to render the pile finer by a selection of rams carrying a smaller fleece, for there are only few breeds in the kingdom, which yield fleeces at once fine and sufficiently strong for the comb. A sensible wool-stapler who has long ob- served the English fleece, and whose judgment and candour I have heard spoken of among spirited agri- culturists with the respect they deserve, writing upon this subject, complains that by the improvement of sheep in the counties of Huntingdon, Northamp- ton, Leicester and Lincoln, the qualities of the staple j have been greatly injured, that the wool is rendered j too weak for the old established manufactures, and ' adds “ this is an evil that must soon remedy itself for deep strong wool will become the most valuable.” But on the contrary, the carding wools ought not to possess too great a degree of strength or tough- ness, because the first process through which they pass, is designed to break the pile into small frag- ments, which is by no means accomplished when the strength of the hair is sufficient to endure the force applied to it with the card, and enables it by ; passing through the interstices of the teeth to avoid i their proper action. Nor should it be supposed that the shorter pile cannot be too tender, for it is sometimes found so decayed as to be broken, when passing through the engine, more minutely than the natural hookedness -of the staple will admit j of, it is then easily dissipated by the motion of the | cylinders j 161 cylinders and wasted ; nor will the cloth, unless the wool of which it is made possess some considerable toughness, endure without injury the violent strokes of the fulling mill. Notechnical name, I believe, has yet been given to the felting quality of the fleece, although it has been long applied to useful purposes, and is of essential I importance in the fabrication of many kinds of woollen j goods. It is the basis upon which the hat manufacture depends among ourselves, and has for many ages been applied abroad to the production of pieces of domes- I tic furniture. In the fabrication of worsted goods it ! isnot employed, nor is it necessary in the manufacture ' of stockings, blankets, baize, flannels, nor any other article not submitted to the action of the fill- I ling mill. In some of them, when made of wool in I which it abounds, the housewife finds great inconve- I nience, and complains that her stockings and her flannels become too small for the wearer. From the different modes of manufacturing these articles, we may conclude that in general the felting quality is a valuable one in almost every description of fine and short stapled fleeces, and that it is not desarable in the greater part of the longer and coarser wools. There are few circumstances, in which the breeds of sheep most commonly met with in these islands, dif- fer more from each other than in their power of yielding a fleece, which possesses fully, or is par- tially destitute of this valuable property. It may her described as a tendency in the pile, when submitted to moderate heat combined with moisture, to cohere; together and form a compact and pliable substance. Bui this property does not belong exclusively to the pile of the sheep, the hair of other animals, parti- O 2 cularly 1 62 eularly the camel, the dromedary, the goat and the beaver are known to possess it in a high degree; perhaps few of the shorter furs are entirely destitute of it, although the longer hair, and that which has a polished and hard surface with a great degree of brittleness exhibit only slight symptoms of its exis- tence. I have never yet traced it in the hair of the human head, except in the disordered state of it com- mon in Poland, nor in that which is cut from the necks and tails of horses, nor in the bristles of the hog, although each of them have been observed mi- nutely in the growing, the raw, and manufactured state. Among the animals whose furs possess this valua- able property, the sheep is most distinguished; and if we may draw the conclusion from the quantity of felts used through all parts of the East, and the easy method in which some of them are formed, it seems that the wool of western Asia is not destitute of it ; that of France possesses it in a distinguish- ed measure, and the envied produce of Spain sur- passes that of neighbouring countries in this as in most other excellencies. From the fleeces of Eng- land, those have been selected as the best adapted to the fulling mill, which are obtained from the Norfolk, the Morf and the Cheviot breeds of sheep; while the South-Downs have been generally decried as produc- ing a kind of wool, notwithstanding all that has been said in their favour, notoriously deficient at least of this good quality. Perhaps it may be owing in some measure to the chalkiness of the land upon which these sheep pasture, for we have observed that both these and the Wiltshire breed, when removed to dif- ferent soils, produce a wool, which thickens in the fulling 1 63 fulling mill, although it proceeds more slowly in the operation than the pile of some other families. We must not conclude from this circumstance, that the difference observed in the felting quality of fleeces is entirely owing to the land, because w r e find upon soils known not to be injurious to wool different kindsof sheep, whose fleeces do not possessthis quality- in an equal degree. Graziers might easily ascertain to what cause the dissimilarity is owing ; and surely when the South-Down breed is diffusing itself so widely over the country, it becomes the breeders of Sussex to wipe off” every reproach from their stock. The felting qualit)’ of wool is not evident to the eye; and though there be some very general appear- ances, which indicate the existence of the property or its absence, yet they are so vague, that the best judges of wool consider this as a point to be asceiv tained only by trial. The application of moisture, warmth and pressure, is the most usual mode of bringing the quality into action. Without the aid of the first, it remains perfectly dormant; the two latter are employed to quicken the process. The tendency of thread of almost every description to contract its length as it imbibes moisture, has not only been generally known, but some kinds are con- sidered as acting so regularly, and so susceptible even of the slightest alteration m the cause which affects them, as to authorize their application to the most accurate purposes of Natural Philosopher. But the woollen thread possesses the quality of retaining its contraction after the cause which produced it has teased to operate, while most others, such as lines of catgut, horse hair, linen, hemp and cotton assume their former length. We know too little at present to O 3 enable o 164 enable us to assign the cause of this permanent con- traction ; but conjecture that it is owing to the par- ticles of the thread, which are brought into actual contact with each other, cohering exactly upon the same principle as the leaden balls do in the common experiment, so often exhibited in lectures upon Natural Philosoph}', to illustrate the attractive power of bodies. In this experiment, it is necessary to clear the lead from all foreign substances, at least in the points where the balls touch each other ; but in the felting of wool, on the contrary, it is equally necessary to use some fluid, which intimately mingles itself with the pile and promotes the attraction, as oil does when infused for the same purpose between two plates of glass. Moderate warmth evidently assists the process, but why it does so and how r it acts, are in a great mea- sure unknown. The degree of heat required to make the felting property act with its utmost force, is con- siderably below the boiling point of water ; a higher temperature loosens the texture of the thread, and increases the elasticity of the hair, thus giving it a disposition to start from the substance of the cloth and spoil its surface. Pressure seems to be useful by bringing a greater number of points into contact, and by divesting the thread of the air which is lodged in its interstices. But so little is known of the pro- ceedings of nature in the operation of felting, that the manufacturer who would institute judicious expe- riments, superintend them with care, and publish the results, would perform a service useful to his country. The mode of bringing this latent property into action has not been always the same. In the ruder ages, it seems to have been excited by the pressure obtained 165 obtained from the weight of the human body; the cloth in its rough state being placed beneath the feet of the workmen, they continued to trample upon it until sufficiently thickened. Hence the person en- gaged in this employment was called a waulker, or walker, of cloth ; and the machine afterwards intro- duced to answer the same purpose was denominated a waulking mill. Mrs. Guthrie, in her tour through the Taurida, informs us that the Tartars still use the patriarchal mode. Spreading two or three layers of d, k Ik in at P< ai; k 253 the land-owner by planting. But the same spirit of enterprise does not seem to pervade this county which has been observed in some others, situated more remotely from the scene and the centre of philosophic husbandry. In the inclosures the sheep have decreased in number, but their produce of wool weighs heavier than it did when more numerous Hocks wandered promiscuously over the same extent of land. The wool, it must be regretted, is of that kind which is least wanted, and which might be produced upon pastures not so well adapted to the growth of a finer staple. In every instance where land naturally suitable to sheep, which produce a fleece of the finest description, is employed in the support of one which yields coarser wool, whatever advantage an individual farmer may procure to him- self, the community is certainly a loser. The quan- tity of stock, as it is collected from the different accounts which have been given of it, amounts to ninety two sheep upon ninety seven acres, but as the farms from whence it is obtained were chiefly those of the better kind, and since a large proportion of the county is evidently incapable of supporting a stock so numerous, if allowed to correct this average by my own unsupported opinion, I should deduct from it one-fifth of the number of sheep ; leaving two hundred and four thousand as the pro- bable stock of animals of that kind, which graze upon nearly two hundred and sixty nine thousand acres, and produce an average fleece of almost five pounds, or about four thousand packs of wool. From the native sheep of Essex, which are now almost if not entirely unknown in the county, a fleece of long and coarse wool was obtained, usually weighing 254 “weighing about four pounds. Instead of its ancient stock, that part of the country now pastures the ( breeds of sheep which derive their origin and their names from Wiltshire, the South-Downs, Nor- folk, Dorsetshire and Wales. The Dishley race * has diffused itself around the coast, and has sometimes without judgment been placed upon the commons, contributing with other circumstances to spoil the w r ool of those flocks which it found there. But the farmers seem to be now convinced that this breed is ill adapted to such pastures, and to the neglect with which the sheep upon them are often treated. The white-faced Wiltshire, a more hardy family, distinguished by the scantiness of its coat, occupies the north-western part of the county ; and the Norfolk race is the most prevailing one on the border of Suffolk. Upon Epping forest, in the farms i near to it, and on the numerous commons with w’hich j i this county abounds, the breed of Wales is chiefly t distinguished. But the sheep known by that name I in Essex have little claim to the appellation, i They are indeed light mountain animals, w’ith some r features which resemble the stock of the Principal- ( lity ; but their blood is mingled with that of many a other families. The wool produced by them is often a coarse, short and kempy ; yet when they are | attended with more than usual care, the fleece is fine, pliable and soft, possessing some of the best n qualities of clothing wool. The black-faced family p of Norfolk, which w r as formerly numerous in this a . eastern division of England, is losing ground very B fast ; and the South-Down race occupies its pastures, q It has been introduced, and spread through a S1 large part of the district, by the influence of gentle- a men, Q55 men, who first reared them in their parks, and with praise-worthy exertion convinced their tenants of the superior advantages to be derived from the culti- vation of such a stock. Here, as in their native county, the Norfolk sheep yield about two pounds of wool ; those of the South Down breed nearly three ; and the descendants from the Wiltshire blood about three and a quarter. There are but few of the Dorsetshire sheep in Essex, and the breed of Dishley is now almost confined to the marshes of the county. No accurate accounts have been given of the stock of this part of the kingdom, but it is almost uniform- j 3y represented as a light one ; and placed very irregularly upon the soil, a circumstance frequently ! observed in districts where sheep-farming does not constitute one of the chief objects of the landholders , attention. If we estimate the number of sheep, as j it appears from an average of eight accounts, at | two upon three acres of land ; and the average ! fleece at three pounds, the result will be amply suf- i ficient to include all the wool of the county. The number of calculable acres being nearly seven hun- dred and seventy eight thousand ; that of the sheep amounts to five hundred and nineteen thousand; and the quantity of wool to almost six thousand five hundred packs. Several of the preceding particulars were fur- 1 nished by a gentleman, who for many years has purchased wool in different parts of the countv; I and the very handsome manner in which he com- municated them conferred an obligation, which re- , quires my public acknowledgment. But whenas- i sured 66 that he finds no data upon which to found a calculation of the quantity of stock,” it may be ,|j Y deemed &56 deemed presumptions in me perhaps to state even a conjecture respecting' it. The soil of Essex is certainly well adapted to the constitution of sheep, and to the growth of a valuable wool ; being for the most part dry, and free from a light sand, or a cretous surface. It is ge- nerally an inclosed and well sheltered county, and can boast of a mild and genial atmosphere. In the district, which, with some impropriety of language, may be denominated that of the Norfolk sheep, wool is often sold by the pound ; in some parts of it by the tod of twenty eight, and in others of twenty nine pounds ; but there seems through the whole a disposition to lay aside local customs, and to adopt those of a more general nature. The use of the strap, which has been described before, is not always dispensed with; but many farmers com- plain of it, and are disposed to adopt a new method of weighing their w’ool, one which is calculated to destroy all ambiguity in the tod which they make use of. Through almost every part of this district i the native sheep is acknowledged to be a bad one, and is gradually giving way to superior breeds. In the counties of Bedford, Huntingdon and Cambridge, the wool-growers are desirous to obtain a heavier race; and even in Norfolk itself, the distinguishing excellency of the South-Down variety is strongly pleaded for, as ascertained by actual experiment, j and some of its advocates are sanguine enough to ; expect, that in a few years it will be the only wool ( bearing stock of the county. c The sheep which we have had occasion to notice c as the favourite breed, even in one part of the Norfolk 5 district, takes its name from a long range of chalky hills. Q57 hills, which passing from the general bed of that kind of earth in the southern part of England, enters the county of Sussex on the west, and runs through it almost in a direct line, until it meets the sea, near to East Bourne. This range of hills, extending in the county almost fifty miles, is of considerable eleva- tion, destitute of inclosures, and contains a succes- sion of open Downs, distinguished by their situation and name from a more northern tract of similar soil and elevation, which passes through Surry and Kent, terminating in the rocks of the Forelands and the celebrated cliff of Dover. It was upon these South- Downs that the sheep of that name were first culti- vated with success ; and hence they sent out those colonies, which are gradually producing an altera- tion in the short-wooled sheep of the surrounding counties, and of some distant parts of England. But they have not yet, like the Dishley breed, sup- planted any race of the native sheep of those countries where they have been introduced ; for they still subsist only as foreigners, and exhibit to shepherds their properties and their produce as objects of com- parison, confident that when tried their superior value will be obvious to aih The animal, though its size place it among the smaller breeds of sheep,, and though its wool be short and fine, has no horns ; its face and legs are grey, and its limbs are not very long ; its head and upper part of the neck is thick, and appears heavy ; and the pile is planted v^ry closely upon the pelt. This kind of sheep, though greatly altered by management, is supposed to have descended with unmixed blood from the original stock which at a very early period diffused itself Y 2 over 258 over the southern parts of England, even from the eastern shore to the extreme point of Cornwall. In the fleeces of the South-Down sheep we have observed a great want of uniformity. That part of them which grew upon the back of the animal, often differs very considerably from the produce of the sides and shoulders ; and the breech becomes suddenly coarse, being larger also than might have been expecied from sheep bearing such fine wool, and grazing in the neighbourhood of the oldest manufactures. Sometimes the pile is not so uniform in itself as the clothier wishes it to be, but contains a number of those coarse and long hairs, which have been described in another part of this work, as giving the fleece a bearded appear mce, and proving hurtful to the cloth. The zeal, however, with which the shepherds of these parts pursue the improvement of their flocks, may have produced a great alteration in the qualities of the fleece, since the time when I was more accustomed to this kind of wool, than at present, and doubtless, under their superintendance, attempts will be made to remedy every known defect. Upon the Downs grazing of sheep is the chief object among farmers, and the condition of their flocks is uniformly represented as excellent. In the less elevated parts of the county these useful qua- drupeds exhibit symptoms of neglect. They are rougher animals, bear a much less valuable fleece, and in accounts which have been published of the rural concerns of Sussex, are often passed over in silence, or but slightly mentioned, while the good qualities of the other breed are repeatedly described. In this county we find the native stock of 259 ©f Hampshire, and also that which derives the pecu- liarities of its nature from the race which abounds most upon the plains of Dorchester. Upon the level tract, near to Pevensey, a breed is found of a heavier description such as was noticed upon the marshes of Romney ; but the sheep of this kind are few in number, and their produce of wool has been included with that of Kent. Among the soils of Sussex, that long tract of chalk, which has been mentioned as the native pas- ture of the South-Down breed of sheep, is most noticed by the wmolstaplers and clothiers ; some of whom, unacquainted with this part of the kingdom, are surprized, when informed that it contains a i quantity of rich fertile land, varying from a stiff clay to light and barren sand, and that the extent of the chalk is not more than one fourth part of the whole. Upon the variety of soils, the quantity of stock which is maintained, is very different. The chalk, with the assistance which it derives from win- ter food procured in the vale, supports a large num- ber of sheep ; and the country about Petwortb, and along the coast, seems to bear a heavy stock of the Dorsetshire breed, kept here, as well as in other places, principally on account of its early lambs ; but farther to the north few sheep are observed ex- cept upon the commons, which are numerous and sometimes extensive. In this district it is usual to shear the lambs ; the quantity of wool produced by each is commonly about eight ounces, but in some years amounts to considerably more, and in others falls short of it. The fleeces also of t-he full-grown sheep, produced at two different seasons of shearing, vary in their Y 3 weight 260 weight. If compleat dependence may be placed upon the returns of wool made to the custom-houses on the coast, the parcel entered by the same person, containing an equal number of fleeces, and most probably produced by the same flock, and upon the same land, in different years has varied full one seventh of its weight. If the flocks of other parts of the kingdom afford in different years fleeces so dissimilar in their weight, the total produce of the country must sometimes vary to a degree, which has not been commonly supposed. There is indeed scarcely any part of the island where the produce of wool, like that of most other substances, has not been served to be sometimes plentiful, and at others scanty. It would be useful to ascertain the causes upon which the variation depends, and the ex- tremes between which it vibrates. Upon the South-Downs, the sheep produce about two pounds of wool. Perhaps the average fleece is not heavier, although the entries at the custom- houses make it about two pounds five ounces. But it should he recollected, that no distinction is made there of the farms upon which the fleeces were grown, and in the less elevated parts of Sussex, and upon the stiffer soils, each sheep furnishes three pounds at least. This we shall consider as the aver- age produce of that part of the county.. The quantity of land occupied by the South- Down flocks must be taken at something more than the extent of the chalky hills, for in the win- ter season they derive a part of their support from the richer soils, A gentleman well acquainted with the district has computed that the extent of their pasture is about sixty miles long, and from five to 261 six broad, supporting a stock of three sheep to two acres. In some parts of the range, particularly to- wards the east, it cannot be lighter than two sheep upon every acre"; but from the banks of the Adur westward, to the extremity of the county, it scarcely exceeds one upon the same quantity of ground. From these data therefore, confirmed by many accounts, the land appropriated to this kind of sheep, may be estimated at two hundred and eleven thousand two hundred acres, the stock at three hundred sixteen thousand eight hundred sheep, and the wool at two thousand six hundred and forty packs. In the other parts of Sussex, after deducting from their general extent the level of Pevensey, the number of sheep seems to amount to nearly one hundred and four- teen upon a hundred and five acres. But this gene- ral average is evidently too large for many parts of the county, and has been affected by the descrip- tions of those places, where the system of sheep- breeding is adopted in preference to any other mode of occupying land. Making some allowance therefore for the sandy tract upon the northern verge of the county, and for the forests of Saint Leonard and Ashdown, where the stock of wool- bearing animals is light, we compute that six thou- sand eight hundred packs of wool are produced by almost six hundred and twenty four thousand acres, and five hundred and forty seven thousand sheep. Of this quantity of wool a considerable propor- tion ultimately reaches the manufactures of York- shire. Probably those of the West of England may derive from hence part of their supply, as the vicinity of the looms, the nature of their produc- tions, 262 tions, and the qualities of the fleece produced upon the Downs, invite a connection between the clothiers of Wiltshire, and the wool-growers of Sussex. But we have no means of tracing with c curacy the destination of the whole produce of the county, i Among those who manufacture the thicker kind of coloured cloth, a strong prejudice prevails against the South-Down wool, because it is generally found to be destitute of that felting quality, which is abso- lutely necessary to the perfection of those articles which they commonly fabricate, and although con- vinced that this deficiency in goodness is to be attri- buted to the influence of a chalky soil, and assured that land of that description does not extend through more than one third of the county, and that the soil of other parts is favourable to the production of a fleece distinguished for superior excellency, yet the clothier has heard so much of the South Downs of Sussex, and has so often suffered by misapplying their fleece, that he feels jealous of all the wool pro- duced in the county. It is unfortunate that the name of its native pasture should have been re- tained by that species of the sheep, which was first fostered here, when removed to other parts of the kingdom ; since it has rendered many of the wool buyers suspicious lest the fleece produced by it should retain its peculiar defect, even at a distance from the Downs, and though placed upon a soil ma- terially different from that which originally supported it. Some who have the interest of the country at heart, have been apprehensive lest it should commu- nicate the peculiar tenderness of its pile to some of the most approved wool of the island. The intro- duction of the Merino family upon some parts of these 263 * these celebrated pastures, so favourable to sheep, rs but.so much the object of dread to one class of clo- it thiers, will shortly ascertain whether the defect in the 8 Wool arise wholly from the soil, or partly from the | constitution of the animal, whether it may be f counteracted by the production of a larger supply | of yolk and a closer coat, the natural effects of a I combination with the Spanish race, or whether the S intermixture of absorbent earths with the growing I pile, will convert the best kind of fleeces into an ! ! imperfect staple, and destroy one of the most dis- tinctive qualities of wool. Here, as in the eastern parts of the kingdom, fleeces are weighed by the tod ; but in Sussex it has been raised to thirty two pounds instead of twenty eight, the original number, and that which is adopted I 1 through every district of long wool. England has derived from Flanders many of the technical terms, which the clothier and the stapler adopt, and some of the customs which prevail in their respective branches of trade ; but it is in the south-eastern quar- ter that these betray their origin most strongly, and indicate, as might have been expected, a closer con- nection between that part of the island, and the an- cient seat of the woollen manufacture. It is in these parts alone that the tod is used, and perhaps the advance in different places, from twenty eight to twenty nine thirty and thirty two pounds, might arise from some local circumstances which are now entirely forgotten. But as this weight is not ap- plied to in ascertaining the quantity of lamb’s wool, it is probable, that the practice of shearing those tender animals was not adopted until after the per- manent establishment of the woollen manufacture in 26 4 in England. The quantity of this hind of wool which is now procured in Sussex, if wp suppose that the whole produce is collected, amounts to about six hundred and thirty packs, reckoning that the number of lambs is generally about one third of the old sheep, and that the proportion of the slaughter is as one to five. When describing the wool of Romnev marsh, a general account was given of the native sheep of Kent, and of their fleeces, which it is not necessary to repeat. Both those which have been placed upon the richer land?, and those which have grazed a more elevated and adryer pasture, being derived from the same stock, exhibit nearly the same distinctive marks in their carcase, and in their wool. Yet, in the higher parts of the county, the native animals have long since admitted into the same fold the pecu- liar breed of Wiltshire, which has been very 7 gene- rally diffused through the country, and that of Dor- set, favoured among those who supply the London market with lamb, because they produce their young at an earlier period than most animals of the same kind. But the South-Down race, valuable on ac- count of its close feeding, its wed formed carcase, and its superior coat, is at present esteemed, and makes rapid progress. At some future period, if it supplant not the natural stock, it may so alter it as to procure a form aud a fleece nearly resembling those of Sussex. The county of Kent displays a great variety in its soils, which, though commonly resting upon a substratum of chaik, are usually thickenough to pre- serve the fleece from the pernicious influence of cretous earth. This substance abounds most in the 265 the nor them and eastern parts, and in some places gives them theappearance ofsterility, but generally requires a large stock of sheep. Toward the south is an ex- tensive tract of rich and fertile land, now improperly denominated the Weald of Kent, where the clayey soil is well adapted to the production of wood and of heavy animals, and is more devoted to oxen than to sheep. In the western quarter there is a greater variety of husbandry, and a more happy mixture of pasture and ploughed land. In the middle of the county but few sheep are observed during the sum- mer months; but in the winter season the fields are thickly set with the young stock, which is sent to these milder regions from the more exposed and boisterous climate of Romney marsh ; and in the western corner, the enclosed lands, owing to the vicinity of London, are too valuable to be employed as sheep pastures. Under these circumstances we cannot expect that the stock of the county can amount to more than four hundred and five sheep, upon five hundred and sixty two acres ; but the in- troduction of abetter breed than that of the old upland farms, and the neighbourhood of the first market in the kingdom, encourage extraordinary attention to this serviceable animal. The wool of the county is purchased by the pound, and finds its principal demand in London. It is sent chiefly to the northern manufactures ; and amounts to about seven thousand packs, shorn from almost five hun- dred and twenty four thousand five hundred sheep ; supported by seven hundred and twenty eight thou- sand acres of land. Each full-grown sheep is es- timated to produce three and a quarter pounds of wool ; and the lambs, which here also are stripped of 266 of their coat during the first year, furnish eaoh about eight ounces. But the system of sheep farming, which in many places has for its object the rearing of lambs for slaughter rather than for stock, does not allow the whole number to be considered as pro- ducing wool. The introduction of South-Down sheep into Hampshire, and the ready reception they meet with there, has induced me to place that county within ; the district, which may be considered as their more i appropriate pasture. The original stock was very different from that which derives its blood from the Downs of Sussex, and from that rougher sheep, which Mr. Marshall thinks was the original stock of the southern counties. The natives of Hampshire j had most commonly white faces and legs, which i beeame speckled only when their blood was mingled with that of some more dingy breed. They had horns, long limbs, and the carcase was light and j narrow. Almost every part of this description 1 would lead us to suppose, that these old sheep be- 1 longed to -a family of very singular character, which ; we shall have occasion to notice, when describing the j wool of Wiltshire, and which perhaps ought to be j a sufficient reason for including them with those of another district. In their improved form, which seems to have been effected in some measure by the judicious selection of rams from the same stock, and by spirited experiments which have been conducted upon a large scale, the length of the legs has been reduced, and the carcase rendered rounder and more compact, while in other respects they re- tain their old characteristics. But in those instances where they have been coupled with the Sussex b reed £67 breed, and which seems to be the mode of improve- ment most commonly adopted, the progeny resem- bles more exactly that of the South-Downs. This latter breed is found to thrive upon harder fare, and produces a finer fleece than the original stock, and in a county possessing a large quantity of dry and elevated pasture, situated near to extensive manufac- tures, and including within itself thescite of the first woollen loom wrought in Britain, this breed may ex- pect to be adopted with a superior degree of judgment and success, and with a nobler spirit of enter prize, formerly the wool of Hampshire was of inferior quality, but as is generally the case, attention to the carcase has produced a casual but very important effect upon the fleece. That wool which is grown upon the forest land, (a term which seems to be used provincially, and to denote uninclosed common land less elevated, or differing in soil from the Downs) is described by an elderly stapler as 44 fine, but filthy and full of sand ; that upon the Downs is larger and more harsh, and upon the arable land it is harder and harsher still.” Probably one part of the altera- tion which is allowed to have taken place in the fleece, produced in this part of the kingdom, may consist in rendering it more soft and mellow. From some circumstances mentioned in rural descriptions of Hampshire, and from the manufactures of the county, it seems to produce some long wool ; but in quantities too small, and too much in- termingled with the shorter kind, to admit of a sepa- rate estimate. The quality of its fleece in general is described as holding the middle place between that, of Wiltshire, which is better, and that of Dorset, which is worse. In weighing the produce of the Z sheep 268 sheep the tod is used, but varies from twenty eight to thirty one pounds. The latter is the most com- mon one, and perhaps that of twenty nine pounds is the least so. In this division of the kingdom, the stock of sheep placed upon a certain number of acres, varies con- siderably ; a circumstance easily accounted for when we observe the soils and local situation, which must always preclude uniformity in the mode and object of farming. Toward the North, the land is deep and good. A broad tract of chalky Downs, continued from those of Sussex, and similar to them in elevation and general appearance, passes from East to West through the centre of the county, and joins to land of the same description in Wilt- shire. Descending toward the South, the country becomes more fertile and woody, but owing to the numerous large bays which indent its coast, the at- mosphere is moist and ill adapted to the constitu- tion of sheep. The Downs, although usually de- scribed as chalky land, are said to have for their surface a thin stratum of another soil, but having: never visited this part of Hampshire, nor seen the wool which it produces, I am not able to say whe- ther it affords a fleece furnished with that felting quality, which is always essential to prime clothing wool. If we estimate the extent of Hampshire, exclu- sive of the Isle of Wight, and deduct one eighth for the land occupied by wood, buildings, and public roads, we have seven hundred and seventy five thousand acres, with a stock, calculated I hope with some degree of accuracy, at two sheep upon three of them. The animals each yield about three pounds of si S£ I s; 0 01 W! ca r I Sli 01 w th P 1 in flc an be P cu P r I lie j Tl I as pa I wa I tin Sii tbi 269 of Wool, and furnish as their total produce almost six thousand five hundred packs, amounting them- selves to nearly five hundred and seventeen thou- sand. But perhaps we ought to deduct more than one eighth from the general extent of Hampshire, owing to its forests, and the very large quantity of water which is found on its southern border. In that case the number of sheep would agree more exactly with another account, which states them in a round sum, at three hundred and fifty thousand, but with- out any circumstances to confirm, and with some which render the statement suspicious. One part of the wool grown here probably furnishes a sup- ply to the western manufactures, another portion most certainly reaches the northern ones. • Among the rural scenes and well cultivated pas- tures of the Isle of Wight sheep graze, which are si- milar to those of the native breed of Hampshire, lank and unsightly animals. The appearance of the flock is mended by some individuals of the Wiltshire and Dorset breeds, but will most probably derive its best improvement from the introduction of the South- Down variety, which to use the simile of an agri- cultural traveller, appear among the natives as the proud and well-combed steed of Arabia, among a herd of the the most humble and stupid of animals. The South- Down sheep produces here as good wool as upon its native soil, and the ridge of hills which passes from east to west, and verges considerably to- ward the southern part of the island, furnishes a pas- ture not widely different from the elevated parts of Sussex. Upon the farms which include a portion of the Downs’ sheep, as is commonly the case, yield a lighter fleece than that which is obtained from the Z 2 flocks 270 flocks whose pasture is confined to the more level plains ; and a larger quantity of wool is procured also from the animals which graze in the western part of the country, than from those which are maintained near to the eastern angle. The former afford a fleece whose weight is estimated at three pounds and a half, while the latter furnish only about three pounds of wool. Upon the less fertile soils the quantity of stock is about six sheep to five acres of Jand ; but upon the richer farms, which are not en- tirely appropriated to sheep, it amounts only to one animal upon two acres. It is not possible to estimate the extent of the upland pasture alone, with that minute exactness which is always desirable ; but perhaps we shall not be far from the truth, if conjecturing that it comprises about one third part of the island, we calculate that the whole of it sup- ports about sixty one thousand sheep, produces nearly eight hundred packs of wool, and furnishes them from eighty seven thousand five hundred pro- ductive acres. The wool after been weighed by a tod of twenty nine pounds, is sent out of the island, and most probably has the same ultimate destination as that of Hampshire in general. It has sometimes been supposed that the quantity of wool grown in the island, is not so large as we have reckoned it. The number ot sheep has been stated at thirty thou- sand, of lambs at eight thousand ; and some other accounts have given forty thousand as the total amount of both. In Surry, the last county to be included in the south-eastern district of short wool, the soil is less various than in many other parts of the kingdom. The interipr of the county is chalky, dry and barren, and 271 andcontainslarge tracts of sandy heath, which prodace but little food for sheep or other quadrupeds. About ninety six thousand acres are of this description ; and if we deduct any thing for the near neighbour- hood of London, which always prevents attention to sheep farming upon the richer soils, it may safely be supposed that one fourth part of Surrv produces as little wool as a similar space of ground does when selected from some of the widely ex- tended heaths of the North of England. At a greater distance from the metropolis, the Dorset- shire sheep are cultivated, and early lambs are reared, perhaps in greater numbers than in most other districts. The old native sheep, still found upon the heaths, are a branch of that family which has so often been mentioned as the native stock of these souther^ counties. From the better pastures it has been expelled, not only by the Dorset, but by the superior breeds of Wiltshire, and of Sussex, each of which produces here a fleece resembling that which is shorn from the inhabitants of its native pastures. The wool of Bansted Downs has been represented ft as short, thick and close, while that of the other heaths is longer, but more soft, coarse, dirty” (ili managed) “ and very full of sand ; 9> it is often distinguished by a dingy hue acquired from the soil, and possesses some of the best qualities of a fleece,. Upon the more tenacious land, the stock amounts to nearly five sheep on six acres ; or two hundred and seventy three thousand fleeces are produced from three hundred and twenty seven thousand acres of calculable land. And if we add to this the stock of the heaths, which may amount to about ten thousand sheep, and take the average fleece at three pounds, the Z 3 produce 272 produce of the county is something more than three thousand five hundred packs of wool. The greater part of it being sent to the London market, is ultimately consigned to the manufacturers of York- shire and of Lancashire. Wiltshire introduces us into a new district of short wool, where a sheep is found, which differs very widely in its features and fleece from those which have hitherto attracted our attention. Here the native flocks are composed of horned animals, with perfectly white faces and legs, a flat untufted front, a liglit and long carcase, which produces no wool upon the belly and lower part of the breast, and these sheep, by their tallness and short stapled-fleece, are qualified to obtain food from dry soils and widely extended pastures. Nature, and the modes of husbandry adopted in Wiltshire, divide the county into two parts. The South-eastern division is distinguished by an amaz- ing extent of high and chalky land, where open Downs succeed each other, and to the tired eye of a stranger appear dry, cold and comfortless. Yet here the reflecting traveller will notice the features and the soil of the country, the immense sh ells of cretous earth, which seem the general deposit of that substance, which forms so distinguishing a charac- teristic of the southern part of Britain. He will Observe, that though ill adapted for the habitation of man, the wilds are every where traversed by numer- ous flocks of sheep, attended by their solitary and unsocial conductors, and evince that the driest wastes, by human industry, may be rendered pro- ductive. Monuments of ancient transactions will recall to his recollection the manners, the taste, the 27 3 fbe turmoils, and the superstition of former times ; but upon the Downs of Marlborough, and the Plains of I Salisbury, he must expect no pleasure from rural scenes, for he will observe neither the secluded dell, nor the meandring brook, the verdant mead, ! nor well-planted coppice, the seat of easy affluence, i nor the humbler dwelling of contented labour. In I the lower parts of the district indeed, he will be de- lighted with the pursuits of husbandry, the patience of manufacture, and the bustle of trade. It is from this singular part of the kingdom, we repeat, that the three loftiest and most naked ridgesofthesouth-eastern quar- ter proceed, and regulate the system of agriculture in the counties through which the}? pass ; the first of these chalky tracts, after intersecting Hampshire and Sussex, terminates at Beachy-Head ; the se- cond extends to the eastern shore of Kent ; and the third, after conveying the Wiltshire breed of sheep even to Cambridgeshire, loses itself beneath the sands of Suffolk. The management of the flock is well understood in Wiltshire, and the animals which compose it ex- hibit, both in their structure and habitudes, evidences of great attention in their owners. Here the farms required an animal light and active, able to pass without injury over a large space in little time, to climb without difficulty the most abrupt steeps of a bil- lowy district, to endure the heat of the summer sna without a shelter, and to subsist upon the herbage which it could crop from the driest Downs. As the fold is the chief object for which flocks in this district are kept, they must travel far at morning and evening, to their pasture and their lodgment. For circumstances like these, eyery one who observe^ the 274 the Wiltshire breed of sheep, will find it well adapted both in its structure, disposition, and lightness of fleece. As they are objects of prime importance in the system of husbandry which prevails here, every farmer supports a large number. Those which sub- sist in the chalky division have been estimated, with their lambs, at five hundred thousand ; but the calculation is an old one, and the basis upon which it is founded loose and unsatisfactory. Another ac- count supposes that the same district supports a sheep and three fourths per acre ; hut perhaps, as is too commonly the case, it estimates the farm, without considering the advantage derived from a common right ; or the acre to w hich it refers may be a computed one, and considerably larger than the statute measure. It is said that the number is smaller now' than it formerly was; but the South- Downi breed, . a hardy animal, and one which allows of a numerous stock, is very generally adopted here. The best accounts to which I have had access induce me to suppose, that the stock in this division of the count}’, amounts to about four sheep upon three acres ; and that four hundred and thirty seven thousand productive ones, support five hundred and eighty three thousand five hundred sheep; which yield, at two and three quarters pounds each, a produce of nearly six thousand seven hundred packs of wool. The north-western part of the county, where* the mode and the object of farming are no less dif- ferent than the soil from that which prevails in the other division, supports a much lighter stock of sheep. There some portions are so entirely appropriated to cows, as almost to exclude all other cattle ; and the 27 5 the quantity of excellent cheese, which the country produces, indicates that the fleece is not an object, with farmers, of prime concern. From the accounts which I have been able to collect, the stock is about three sheep to four acres ; but this does not by afiy means correspond with the general descriptions, and the known circumstances of the country. If calcu- lated upon an average of one sheep to two acres, perhaps the result will be near the truth. Two hundred and thirty five thousand acres therefore maintain a hundred and seventeen thousand five hundred sheep ; and since each of them produces about three pounds of wool, the whole quantity of that article is fourteen hundred and sixty packs. Northern Wiltshire is much more pleasant than the other division of the county, is less elevated and better watered. Its lands are inclosed and contain more wood. Its soils are rich and warm, well adapt- to the Dairy, in the management of which its inha- bitants greatly excel. The wool of the county in general possesses a considerable degree of uniformity. The pile is for the most part white, soft, and remarkably clean ; and since the fleece is scanty, the sheep producing no wool uporv the bellies and lower part of the thighs, it is free from dag-)ocks and skirts. “ Upon the lands which have been broken up, the wool becomes coarser and more hard, perhaps owing to the more intimate mixture of the chalk with the pile, and in the inclosures, sheep are chiefly kept for the pur- pose of fattening.” The chalky Downs are, for the most part, covered with a thin stratum of other soil, but whether it be sufficient in all cases to preserve the perfection of the fleeee I know not ; for the wool £76 is almost entirely wrought in the western manufac- tures, and only a very small portion I believe reaches the northern looms. The county itself produces several articles of the woollen manufacture, to which the domestic fleece must be well adapted, though al- most destitute of the felting quality. On the southern side of Berkshire, and especi- ally upon the borders of Surry, a light and sandy tract, we meet with a very small sheep, which does ■ not yield more than a pound and a half of wool, fine, soft and pliable. Along the banks of the Kennet, and extending to some distance from the river, the land sustains a heavier sheep than is found in most other parts of the county and enables it to afford a larger fleece with a longer staple. Through the broadest part of the county, runs a ridge of chalky hills, where the farms are large and i the stock of sheep heavy, derived chiefly from the j ( Wiltshire breed, and producing a sort of wool si- i milar to that of their native plains. Toward the < northern verge of the county, the land is rich and , f fertile, perhaps equal in goodness to the best soils of i • England, and produces a fleece well adapted to the clothiers purpose. Even the chalky soils, by a thin j stratum of gravel which covers them, are rendered | less injurious to the fleece, which they afford, than the pastures of some other districts. The flocks of Berkshire are generally represented as composed of good and handsome sheep, very useful by their disposition and their form in the system of husbandry, which are commonly practised there. Some of the South-Down and Dorset breeds are also introduced, and promise to contribute their share toward the farther improvement of the flocks. At present the fleece varies, both in its weight and its fineness, ac- cording 277 cording to the soil and the kind of sheep which pro- duce it ; but in some parts of the county is too much neglected while growing, and managed, when shorn, in a careless and slovenly manner. Perhaps the average weight of wool, produced by the different sheep in this division of the country, may be about three pounds and a quarter ; the stock about three sheep upon four acres; the total number three hun- dred and six thousand six hundred, supported by four hundred and eight thousand eight hundred acres, and the whole produce four thousand one hundred and fifty packs of wool. A part of the fleeces is wrought by the western manufactures, and the remainder consumed by the northern ones. The weight most commonly made use of is the tod of twenty eight pounds. Part of Oxfordshire, particularly the northern corner, the tract of land which follows the river Gharwell, and a portion to the south of Oxford, is well adapted to sheep of the larger breeds. To the east and west of these richer pastures the soil is thin, and adapted to an animal producing a lighter fleece. The hills of chalk, which enter the county from Berkshire, and stretch across its southern division, furnish a pasture of a very inferior kind. On the richer lands, the pile is grown longer than some branches of the woollen manufacture require it to be, and the coarseness of the hair disqualifies it for the more delicate fabrics. Even in the stony dis- tricts, and upon the thinner lands, the wool is less valuable than it would be, if more care were taken to produce it for a definite purpose. Perhaps the existence of the blanket manufacture at Witney, and that of worsted shaggs at Banbury, both of which 278 which require considerable elasticity in the raw ma- terial, may have contributed to render the fleeces produced here less suitable to the fabrication of woollen cloth, than those of the neighbouring coun- ties. In the southerly division we observe the Wilt- shire sheep, with their short and scanty coat, and | as usual, cropping the dry grasses of a chalky pas- ture. Estimating the number of sheep by the best information which it was in my power to obtain, 1 four of them seem to occupy about five acres of the 1 surface. The fleece, which varies from three pounds 1 to seven, we take at an average of four pounds and a half for the northern division of the county, and at three and a half for the southern. Within the former almost two hundred and sixty thousand pro- j ductive acres are included, and one hundred twenty two thousand five hundred remain for the latter. The result therefore is nearly three hundred four thousand six hundred sheep, and five thousand three ; hundred packs of wool. Of this quantity one por- j tion is consumed at home, a second at Leicester, in the hose trade, and a third in Yorkshire for woollens. Buckinghamshire posseses on both sides of the Ouse a quantity of land, which supports middle- sized sheep, and some of their fleeces have a staple tv hose length and temcity adapt it to the comb. But the pile is finer than long-stapled fleeces usually are, and mingled with too large a porpor- tion of shorter wool ; very often it is rendered too tender by the severity of the seasons, or the inju- dicious intermixture of a different blood, which abounds on the upland farms. Further toward the south the fleece becomes m ucli 279 much smaller, especially that which is produced upon those gentle hills, which separate the waters of the Ouse from those which flow into the Thames ; and in the vale of Aylesbury, the richer soils are again favourable to the growth of a heavier staple. Across the South of the county proceeds a tract of chalky land, the continuation of that spur which has induced us to include Buckinghamshire within the district of Wiltshire. Upon these chalky Chiltern hills we again find the light-fleeced breed of sheep, distinguished from every other by the same strong and decided features, which characterize it in its native county. Descending from these dry and elevated regions, we meet with a great deal of wood and common land, with small and half-starved sheep, whose coats declare their own poverty and their master’s inattention. In general the wool of Buckinghamshire, except that which is produced on the chalky soils, is fit for the clothiers’ use, being short, soft and pliable ; but it is very often filthy, incumbered with a large and coar»e breech, and sometimes debased with an intermixture of kemps. The sheep most commonly met with are derived from the blood of the Dorset, the Wiltshire, and from a mongrel kind, which partakes of no decided charac- ter. In some parts of the county, where the wet- ness of the soil is injurious to the constitution of these tender animals, the farmer is induced to hire a flock from a distance, which, under the superintendence! of its owner, shaji be folded upon the land during the summer season. These foreign shepherds, as. they are called, tell us that they come from Shrop- shire, and represent the wool as the produce of sheep from that part of the kingdom, although A a both 280 both the flock and their own dialect contradict the assertion. The Dishley breed has been intro- d need into some parts of Buckinghamshire, and a taste for heavier fleeces very generally prevails. Butin many cases, while with pleasure we notice the increasing value of the carcase, it is to be re- gretted that the pile is greatly injured. Gentle- men in this county would do well to increase the value of their wool, by a selection of the most atte- . nuated coats ; for they are situated very far from the ultimate markets, whither it must be sent, and the transit thither is incumbered with an unusual expence. When cultivating wools of an inferior kind therefore they subject themselves to a de- duction from its real value, which bears a much larger proportion to the money they actually receive than they would have submitted to, had they pro- duced a less weight at a larger price. Here the stock is about six sheep to eleven acres, i. e. four hundred and eight thousand eight hundred acres of land support nearly two hundred and twenty three thousand sheep ; which, supposing each of them to afford three pounds of wool (a weight amply suf- ficient for the average fleece of this county) yield almost two thousand eight hundred packs. It is weighed by the tod of twenty nine pounds, and the greater partis converted into a useful state in the North of England, a small proportion of it is used at Leicester. The hills of a cretons texture, still stretching eastward, divide Hertfordshire from the counties of Bedford and Cambridge by a very irregular out- line. But the larger portion of the soil in this district is composed of a gravelly loam, resting upon % deep bed of chalk. With good cultivation it is extremely 281 extremely fertile, and produces a large quantity of wood. The sheep, which it supports, are chiefly of the Wiltshire breed, but often mingled with the blood of more northern districts ; and the distin- guished race of Sussex has not only been introduced with success, but at present is making rapid pro- gress, and will most certainly improve both the floek and its pile. The whole number of those valuable, soft-coated animals of ail descriptions amounts to rather more than two hundred and seventy seven thousand, which constitute the stock of almost i[ three hundred and seventy thousand acres of land. | Upon most of the farms a heavier fleece is found s than that which is produced by the pure blood of the Wiltshire stock. The carcase is more cotn- ; pletely enveloped with wool, and the staple is lon- ger than that obtained from soils less favour- j able to the production of a healthy pile. Some i old accounts make the average fleece weigh four pounds and three quarters, but as this seems to be taken without any reference to the fleeces of the commons, and before the introduction of a lighter stock yielding a smaller quantity of wool, we must i deduct something from it, and calculate at only four pounds and an half, which gives us the produce nearly five thousand three hundred packs of wool. Almost the whole of it is wrought up in the North of England, some little at Leicester, and some at Bury St. Edmunds. This also I conceive to be a district where finer fleeces might be grown with advantage both to the farmer and the community ; for the i| soil is dry and sound, the climate is free from the I; moisture which destroys the yolk of the fleece, and the chalk, except in the northern quarter, does not A a 2 lie 282 lie sufficiently near the surface to affect the quality of the wool. The amazing population of Middlesex imposes upon it a system of agriculture, totally inconsistent with the production of a large quantity of wool. Some poor and ill-formed sheep of the Wiltshirebreed procure a scanty subsistence from the commons ; but very few are kept in the inclosures, and those only for the purpose of producing early lambs, or fattening for the butcher. The parks of different gentlemen, with which this county abounds, perhaps more than any other in proportion to its extent, contain a great variety of sheep of different kinds, procured from distant parts of our own country, and from foreign regions. If more attention were paid to these isolated animals, the proprie- tors of them might obtain a degree of information respecting the growth of the fleece in general, and relating more particularly to the different varieties of the wool-bearing species, which cannot fall within the- compass of ordinary observation. The accounts which have been collected of the stock of sheep maintained in Middlesex, give us nine- teen upon thirty two acres ; but we cannot with propriety estimate more than half the surface as contributing to their support, and hence we con- jecture, that seventy six thousand acres produce, at four pounds per fleece, seven hundred and fifty packs of wool, from forty five thousand sheep. All of it may be classed among the shorter piles, and considered as applicable to woollen fabrics. Perhaps it was not perfectly accurate to consi- der some of those counties, whose produce has now been described, as parts of the Wiltshire district; since the the greater portion of their soils, their sheep and their fleeces, differs very widely from those of the Downs. But as the Wiltshire family is found in them all, especially upon the tract of chalk, which most proba- bly conducted them thither, and since almost all the other kinds of sheep in this part of the kingdom exhi- bit indistinct features, I know not how to arrange them more properly than I have done. One fact however is remarkable, the sheep to the South of the chalky range are, with a few exceptions, of a much smaller kind than those in the North. There charac- teristic marks are more decisive, and this singular tract of land appears to have formed for ages a bar- rier which the flocks on either side could not pass without other influence than that of the common principles of husbandry. The sheep of Dorsetshire, although bearing a great degree of resemblance to the variety just de- scribed, and perhaps descending originally from the same stock, are considered by agriculturists as a different breed. They have horns, which are placed boldly upon the forehead, and which project in some slight degree before it. Their faces and legs are commonly white, though some individuals betray a mixture of blood, by a dingy visage and a tufted front. They are gifted also by nature with a capacity of producing their young in great abundance, and at any season. In general, they are smaller than the Wiltshire breed, and lately have received some alter- ation by the introduction of the Dishley blood. la the neighbourhood of Weymouth, in the islands of Purbeck and Portland, and the country' about Wareham and Pool, a peculiarly small sort of sheep A a 3 subsists, 284 subsists, very different from those commonly called the native breed of Dorsetshire, and described as even smaller than those of Wales. This is an uneven district, of which a large proportion is well adapted to the support of the woolly tribe, and applied by its occupiers to that particular purpose. In the vicinity of Dorchester, even within eight miles of the town, it has been sup- posed “ that the whole number of sheep and lambs, including those of all ages, amounts to an hundred and seventy thousand”; and it has been sometimes quoted as an instance of hard stocking, which could not be paralleled in any other district. But if the terms “eight miles round Dorchester,” describe a circle whose radius is of that extent, and we do not see how it can be interpreted, so as to include a smaller space of ground, then the number of sheep amounts to seventeen upon thirteen acres, which we have seen to be more than equalled on some of the downs of Sussex, and also in a few of those districts which support a much larger animal, and produce a far more weighty fleece. But on the contrary, the author who supposes that six hundred thousand are maintained upon almost the same plot of ground, but within a circle whose radius is only six miles, must surely have made some great mistake, for it supposes a stock which could scarcely be supported by the most luxuriant soil. When these two accounts, both of which are given by high authority, are com- pared together, they show how precarious is the basis whereon all calculations of this kind are founded, and teach us to be diffident in similar deductions. From the best information which I have received, and different statements being corrected by each oi her £85 other, the sheep stock of the county seems to be about six hundred thirty two thousand three hundred, or twenty eight sheep to thirty one acres. Some other persons have conjectured that the number is rather larger than we have stated, but it is evident, even in the same pages that their deductions are not accurate. The extent of Dorsetshire is taken at seven hundred thousand acres, the average fleece at three pounds and three quarters, and the whole produce of wool at almost nine thousand nine hundred packs. It is not often that the total produce of a county is estimated lower by the author of these pages than it is by others, who perhaps have had better means of information ; but in this case, if they are correct, his statement is deficient by nearly two thousand packs. The wool in this part of the kingdom is described as short, fine and close, highly esteemed in the ma- nufacture of woollens,although inferior to that obtain- ed from the plains of Salisbury. Complaints also are made against the sand, and filth of other descriptions, with which it greatly abounds ; and some staplers have thought that part of it is too coarse and long* These latter defects I fear will not be remedied by the introduction of Leicester rams, and the taste, which at present prevails, is in favour of a large sheep and a weighty- fleece. Here also, as is com- mon in the southern counties, the Janibs are shorn, and the wool produced by each is about one third of the quantity obtained from the dams. The fleece of the older sheep is employed in the western manu- factures, and is weighed in a peculiar method. The integral quantity is denominated a Wey, contains thirty one pounds, and in making use of it great exactness seems to be observed, for it is generally described £86 described as e should sup- pose that the demand for wool would constantly vary, and that the price of it would experience cor- respondent fluctuations. Yet it has often been observed, that the depression of the woollen manu- facture 855 facture has but little effect upon the price of the material. This is owing, I conceive, to so large a pro- portion of woollen articles being consumed at home, and in the colonies ; to the close connection which subsists between this country and foreign ones ; and to our decided maritime superiority, by which the passage to every market is kept open, and rendered secure. The demand for woollen goods at home, in our distant possessions, and in the United States of America, is almost sufficient to take off the whole produce of our looms ; yet that portion of it which'iS sent to European countries gives a spirit to onr com- merce, which it would not otherwise enjoy, and serves many important purposes in the general ba- lance of trade. We cannot indeed suppose, as some do, that foreigners are dependant up6n England for a supply of woollen goods; yet it has often been ob- served, that when obstacles have been interposed to our commerce, the people of other countries hav& assisted in removing impediments, or in tendering them ineffectual ; hence it comes to pass that though the demands of trade be not always regular, yet in the course of months they become sufficiently large to require our whole surplus of woollen articles, r and at every returning season leave only a'small stock of the manufactured, or of the raw material. Wool moreover is an article of annual production ; the quantity of the best kinds which can be obtained, is always limited ; but the consumption is daffy, and the inclinations of people, both at home and abroad, tend to increase it. The immense establishments for conducting the manufacture, and the general use of modern machinery, require a rapid and regular supply of wool ; they are fully sufficient to consume the G g 3 whole 356 whole produce of the kingdom, and cannot be con- verted to other purposes without much e* pence ; they cannot remain inactive without considerable loss. Hence the deece is generally considered as a safe article pf speculation, and employs at one season of the year, a larger capital than would be embarked in more precarious concerns. The quantity of. mo- ney in the market, therefore, always operates with peculiar influence upon the price of tvool ; if rising if urges its course, and prevents its fall when the ma- nufacture labours under temporary depression. And should difficulties continue longer than was expected, and a surplus of wool be left upon hand at the return of summer, even then it is not a perishable article ; but with proper care may be kept back from market, and rather . improve in its condition than grow worse, gpyfyas th^e ate some of the principal circumstances* jyhich tend to counteract the natural effect of a vari* atiop in the demand for woollen goods ; their indu-r ence has frequently been observed, and their operation though silent, is generally irresistable. Many persons have formed their opinion of tho demand for wool, and regulated their notions of its value, by the quantity of cloth milled in the space of U, year, in the West-Riding of Yorkshire, a return of it being made to the sessions at Pontefract in the spring. But for several reasons, this is a very falla- cious mode of judging. These returns give no gene- ral view of the state of trade ; they mention only the number of yards manufactured, and take no notice of the weight of wool ; they do not distinguish between the goods made from the pile of British, and of foreign growth; they relate only to one kind of woollen arti- cles : and refer to the West-Riding of Yorkshire alone. The 35 7 The slightest acquaintance with the woollen manu- facures of England, and the materials used in them, must convince any one how unreasonable it is to draw general deductions from such premises as these. It ’iVill show that persons, who regulate their conduct by opinions formed in this manner, must be perpetually in danger of acting wrong. A connection exists between the price of wool, and the value of land. As the rents of faVms, and the expences of management increase, it is evident that all the produce must sell for more money, than it did when the disbursements of the agriculturist were less heavy ; and it is only reasonable to suppose that the fleece will bear its proportionate advance. The in- troduction of foreign wools is always attended with some difficulty ; they are encumbered with heavy ex- pences, and can operate as a check upon the price of British fleeces, only when purchased at a low rate, when the quantity actually brought in is very considerable, and when those who hold it are disposed to sell at inferior prices. The pile of Eng- lish growth therefore always possesses a considerable advantage, and will most probably continue to in- crease in value at the same rate as do the other articles of native produce. Judicious farmers also have observed, that by attention and care they can procure from their sheep either a larger or a smaller quantity of wool ; and that whatever they sacrifice in the fleece, they unvariably obtain from the car- j case. The price of wool, they assure us, must bear i some relation to that of mutton, for bince their pro- fits are made up of the joint produce, arising I both from the carcase and the fleece, they will cultivate the most sedulously that only which leaves ] them 35 $ them the largest share of advantage. The culture of sheep, likewise, is affected by the same law, and wheresoever it appears most advantageous to adopt the dairy system of husbandry, or to graze cattle, the produce of wool must be small. During the last seventy years, many have thought that the price of wool was regulated entirely by the arbitrary will of the purchasers ; and some have amused themselves by writing- long and bitter com- plaints against the combination of staplers, and the monopoly granted to manufacturers. To show that the grievances of wool-growers have in them something real Smith wrote his Memoirs, a dry and heavy work, but containing much historical informa- tion. The author, however, betrays so much igno- rance of trade, such a want of information respecting the quality, and the use of the. British fleece ; and is so prejudiced in favour of a party, that we cannot join in the extravagant admiration of an agriculturist and say, “ that the work ought to be printed in let- ters of gold.” We wonder too that intelligent and liberal minded men should be so far influenced as to retail his invective, and ask whether any person may not employ his. capital either as a stapler, a manu- facturer, or a merchant? Whether those who have long purchased wool do not vaiiie their connections among the farmers at a high rate J Are not all wool- buyers jealous lest others should prevent them from collecting their usual quantity ? Do not farmers take more pains to sell their fleeces than any other article which land produces? And is not every stapler to whom wool is offered eager to bargain, though almost certain that it is under a promise to ano- ther person? Does not the purchaser often enjoin secrecy with respect to the price? Does not he fre- 359 frequently promise that though the bargain be made at one sum he will give a larger price? Does not he even leave the price to be settled at some future period, and engage that he will give as much money as any wool sells for in the parish where the grower resides? Yea is it an uncommon case that a farmer should expect, and obtain, something extra for the wool which he sold in a former year, even though he has no legal claim upon the stapler who bought it, nor even the shadow of a promise from him to that effect? Arethesesymptoms of combination, orare they proofs of rivalry? What would farmers think of them in reference to any other article than wool ; in refe- rence to their corn, their cattle, their horses, their rents, or to bargains in the public funds? What must every person, who is accustomed to the routine of business, think of wool sold under such circumstances as these? Surely he would never conjecture “ that it does not obtain a fair price !’* But combination does really exist; the growers have among themselves numerous meetings, convened by public advertisement, for the express purpose of raising the price o*f wool? ; information is communi- cated to them from every part of the kingdom, and the result of their deliberations is transmitted to the most distant farms. Sensible men, however, will not complain of such conduct, because it is impossible, by any means whatsoever, to raise the price of wool above its value, when taken upon an average f of years. Depending upon principles wholly uncon- nected .with public meetings, the value of the article must increase so long as the growth, and the import of • Vid. the writings of Arthur Young and other Agriculturists. 360 of the kingdom are not equal to the demand ; but the effects which a surplus would produce, must soon be perceived, and no combination can withstand them. Yet it should be recollected that we manu- facture annually a large surplus of goods ; that these must be disposed of according to their value in other countries ; and if this be lower than the price at home, the consequence is known and certain. In the woollen trade it behoves the stapler, the clothier, and the merchant to look beyond the limits of Bri- tain, and to regulate their conduct by enlarged prin- ciples. We are not advocates for a depressed yeo- manry, but rejoice when the produce of land is suffi- ciently high to reward their skill, and to make a reasonable return for the employment of capital ; when it is low enough to allow the poor the comforts, and the decencies of life ; and to recompence the manufacturer and merchant for the hazards of their trade. Upon the balance of these interests the price of wool greatly depends ; it is desirable that it should be gradually augmented, but sudden and large ad- vances are calculated to snap the thread of our connection with foreigners, and to cause the surplus of manufactures to recoil upon ourselves. FINIS. Note to Page 24 6. The letter alluded to was afterwards noticed, and rather unceremoniously published in the Annals of Agriculture. Mr Y. cannot say that the sheep of Suffolk are increased, unless it be from a greater number of South-Downs being kept instead of Norfolks. Note to Page 32 2 , line 7. Mr T. Motley informs me that the lambs this year, when turned into a field of grass lately mowed, exhibited symptoms of a feebler constitution, and that some of them died. The cir- cumstance has since been accounted for by the system of “ breeding in and in.” Note to Page 339. The number of sheep and lamb skins stamped in Leeds within a year, amounted to 44,263. If such returns were correct, they might afford much information respecting the slaughter* f % fr/IM X< ‘J-Ob (