12 
 
 a gill stringing flowers; these strings, or wreaths of gaudy flowers, are hung in 
 festoons and fanciful devices over the doors and windows of houses on holidays; 
 offering of flowers are also made to the various idols; at Christmas, the houses of 
 the Europeans are made perfect flower gardens by the offerings of their Hindoo 
 servants. Near her stands a servant, whose business it is to keep flies, and other 
 insects, from annoying his employer; this is performed by flourishing his 
 chowree, or fly-flap, made of the tail of the Thibet cow, kusa grass, or peacock’s 
 feathers. 
 
 69 .— Fakir. 
 
 There are four sects of Fakirs or wandering devotees in Hindoostan, some of 
 whom go entirely naked, with their bodies frightfully painted. The Yogees of the 
 Senassee tribe travel over all India, and sometimes unite in large armed bodies in 
 pilgrimage to sacred temples or rivers; many are devotees of the strictest order, 
 remaining buried in holes, or under banyan trees, their whole life in one position; 
 some drag heavy burdens, others craw l on their hands and knees, or roll them¬ 
 selves on the ground half over the empire; some swing, tear their flesh out piece¬ 
 meal, hang by the heels, or rub themselves with sugar that insects may torture 
 them; they all however agree in one point, collecting alms for the avowed pur¬ 
 pose of building a pagoda, sinking a well, &c. 
 
 70 .—Europeans attended by a Ch'hata Wala. 
 
 During the day it is imprudent for Europeans to encounter the heat of the gun 
 without being provided with a ch’hata, or umbrella. The ch’hata walas are 
 always at hand, and are engaged for a mere trifle; the ch’hata is formed of silk, 
 or red or blue curwah, on a frame of bamboo. 
 
 71 .—Procession of an Indian Prince. 
 
 The state of the native princes, who retain any power, consists principally in 
 the number of their elephants, camels, horses, armed and other attendants ; and 
 on the occasion of their visiting a durbar of the governor general, these used to 
 be displayed with great magnificence. This useless parade has, however, been 
 for some time on the decline, and is now nearly dispensed with; indeed, excepting 
 on very especial occasions, elephants are not permitted to come within five miles 
 of the city. Tippoo Sultan kept 7,000 elephants, 6,000 camels, and 11,000 
 horses. The Vizier Ally, who ended his days so miserably in the fort, had 1,200 
 elephants, and 3,000 saddle horses. The largest elephants are sometimes eleven 
 or twelve feet in height, but the general average is nine: their natural life is 
 about 120 years, and they are nearly half that time before they attain their full 
 growth. The Indians are very fond of them, and they return this attachment in 
 a remarkable degree: when very well trained, their value is about 5 or 6,000 
 rupees, and they have been know n to fetch 20,000; the howdahs, or seats, are of 
 various forms, and generally made to hold two persons; sometimes they have 
 canopies in the fanciful form of birds, &c., particularly the peacock ; others are 
 of silk or velvet. Those used by Europeans when hunting, are in the form of the 
 body of a gig, with a high splashboard to lean against when firing. The mahoot 
 or driver, sits on the neck of the animal, and directs his movements by a short 
 spiked iron; the assistants on foot keep continually talking to him, telling him to 
 be careful where to tread, &c. 
 
 The camel is the most patient and serviceable of all the animals in India. 
 They are fit for burden at three years of age, and seldom outlive twenty-five. 
 Their burden is usually from five to six hundred-weight, with which they travel 
 at the rate of three miles per hour, and are content with the coarsest food, and 
 very little water. 
 
 The dogs used in hunting are of a breed peculiar to India, and are very 
 ferocious. They are not allowed at large in Calcutta, and are therefore always 
 accompanied by the doorea-a, or keeper. 
 
 The cheeta, or small leopard, forms also a part of the hunting establishment of 
 a great man; care is, however, always taken, to have raw meat at hand, to appease 
 their ferocity, in the event of the game escaping; hawks and falcons are also kept, 
 and the sport much followed. The remainder of the procession consists of armed 
 Sipahees in various costume, innumerable servants, and their assistants, &c. 
 
 J, ami C. Adlaid, JPriutcrs, tiariholomew Close. 
 

 X ML AIATIO M of a VIEW of edrihUin^ | a t the PAM© PAM A JLEIC E STElSpA U E 
 
 u 
 
 X 
 
 ' 1 M# 
 
 Wb 
 
 ; P 5 fT 
 
 'faSS 
 
 mmgnm 
 
 il 
 
 25. 
 
 rJA.— Ifftl ft 
 
 27 i 
 
 Pm 
 
 < 
 
 - V’, 
 
 v\« ,• f 
 '\ 
 
 uj rpir 
 
 i- r :w ’ 11 
 U.:> ‘ 
 
 f l l k /'\ £■ ? 
 
 rrrr^± 
 
 
 =e-^ 
 
 si 'S:MM deds GrcL'Z.i& 
 
 2 . ’ 8 -Maairizio, 
 
 ’ 3 SMM Sogrr&t/s . 
 
 4 Archamo PobPbno 
 
 5 .MdrUzRosa, 
 
 CSEOio. -- •. ■ ■*• • 
 
 7 Mcrrti&Moro ■ 
 
 8 FPtschsm 
 
 ■9" CasMUs 
 
 10 Broleito \ 
 
 21S Pmaso zoo tArramala 
 
 12 Palazzo Clones 
 
 13 S Pro Also ad Monacos 
 
 24 Arenac ' " V ' : 
 
 iSvnplori 
 
 17■ Jungfram 
 18 FmstMAarlvjrn . 
 
 ,- 19 S PM del Canrrarn ■■ 
 
 . 20 Tealro FileBrajrwMco 
 21 S Sangolzascrio 
 ■ 22 Teatro deUzt S'cola, 
 
 23 Brem 
 
 24 Ida a d/lZugamo 
 
 23 MjtU&. S ■ Gorton do . - 
 26 Cams 
 
 ■ 27 Fodsuzzo Marins 
 • 28 Dunns 
 
 29 Palazzo In Gmstazioc 
 
 30 Cmmcr 
 
 31 SBorriondonn 
 
 32 Crenwnm ■ ' 
 
 33'S. StcFano Mantns 
 34 Pods ‘ 
 
 33 SlMPde laPazo 
 
 36 S.Banned) as \ 
 
 37 S.Antsnio r . 
 
 38 8 Coutariaza 
 
 39 Pal/izzo Retie 
 
 WW 1 
 J 
 
 F* 
 
 m 
 
 i 
 
 w 
 
 I : I 
 
 l ft| 
 
 
 i f 
 
 tim? 
 
 ,, . i. 
 
 I'iiui Em^ianwir ~ 
 !i 
 
 i 
 
 
 Ajs 
 
 
 \36 
 
 
 / 
 
 408. Goltando 
 
 41 FortarBomanzL 
 
 42 Ospedaln Granin' 
 
 43 S. MMdel Faradoso 
 
 44 STfazano Mag 
 
 45 S. Sofas . • 
 
 46 Paata 
 
 47 Certs set 
 
 48 S.CeZso 
 
 49 8 Paolo 
 
 30 PFawslan do Pavra, 
 
 31 Speco/mZFoscaM 
 
 32 3. Bus tergm 
 
 33 Palazzo Sforza Vtscovds 
 ' 54 S.AJefsaaidro • 
 
 55 8Lorenzo 
 
 56 Lal7ut6>7ta, 
 
 '57S. Satdv ' 
 
 ■58 8. Scbastanmo 
 
 59 Morin 77s o ■ • • • 
 
 60 Turin ; ' 
 
 • 61S.Marten ■ ■ ■ . 
 
 . 62B idblaotecsz Aminos laoia, 
 
 ■ 6 3 Marti Conan - 
 .. 64 8 Aartbrogis 
 . 65 SMztore . -w .. .• 
 
 . • v:'- M 
 
 at MS- ’ v l 
 
 31 
 
 mem 
 
 ^-5 —-Vvs-v~ 
 
 B V 7 k 48 
 
 40 
 
 Jt£ 
 
 A- 
 
 r 
 
 .V 
 
 
 fi\ 
 
 o — 
 
 il 
 
 &S2 
 
 64 ■' 
 
 M -56 
 
 riSwl^ w S m M '-'r 
 
 S’ 
 
 yi ■ 
 
 ».■ ■ 
 
 J 
 
 “te 
 
 r ■ 
 
 “|it( 
 
 f' 
 
 I • 
 
 
 >.[. . 
 
 I? 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 
 ! -V 
 
 P 
 
 1 1 
 
 4 
 
 V 
 
 i 
 
 ’ V 
 
 Wi 
 
 r. 
 
 f 
 
 if. 
 
 .1 6C L 
 
 6r 
 
 62 
 
 63 M SP' 
 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 in 2018 with funding from 
 Getty Research Institute 
 
 https://archive.org/details/descriptionofvie00burf_9 
 
DESCRIPTION 
 
 OF 
 
 A VIEW OF THE CITY 
 
 MILAN, 
 
 AND THE 
 
 SURROUNDING COUNTRY, 
 
 NOW EXHIBITING AT THE 
 
 PANORAMA, LEICESTER SQUARE. 
 
 PAINTED BY THE PROPRIETOR, 
 
 ROBERT BURFORD, 
 
 FROM DRAWINGS TAKEN BY HIMSELF IN 1830. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 PRINTED BY T. BRETTELL, RUPERT STREET, HAYMARKET. 
 
 1832. 
 
NOW EXHIBITING, 
 
 IN THE UPPER CIRCLE, 
 
 A VIEW 
 
 OF 
 
 FLORENCE 
 
MILA N. 
 
 This large and flourishing city, the capital of the Austrian kingdom of 
 Italy, forms an exception to an almost general rule, by not being built 
 on the banks of a navigable river, which is the more remarkable as the 
 Adda and the Ticino on either side, and the Po in front, offer at no very 
 great distance that advantage ; it stands on a perfect flat at the com¬ 
 mencement of the immense plain of Lombardy, without the least natural 
 defence, and has been indebted for its commerce and importance to two 
 great canals, cut (one in the twelfth, the other in the fifteenth century) 
 from the before-mentioned rivers; there not being the smallest rising in 
 the ground, the immediate vicinity of the city offers but little variety, and 
 the two formal canals, which completely encircle it (which from the 
 height of the buildings are not seen in the Panorama), tend rather to 
 increase than diminish the sameness; but beyond, the eye ranges to an 
 immense distance over the rich and fertile plains of Lombardy, Piedmont, 
 and the Venetian States, luxuriant with every description of rural beauty, 
 intersected by rivers and lakes, and thickly studded with towns and 
 villages, with their attendant gardens, groves, and vineyards. The Northern 
 horizon, from East to West, is bounded by the vast chain of the Alps, 
 which form a magnificent semi-circle at from eighty to one hundred and 
 twenty miles distant, Monte Rosa, Monte Cenis, Monte St. Gothard, the 
 Simplon, &c. covered with eternal snow, being conspicuous from their 
 towering height; towards the South the view is bounded by the Ap- 
 pennines, extending across the peninsula from the Mediterranean to thf 
 Adriatic ; and on the south-west, the Piedmontese hills, in the neighbour¬ 
 hood of Turin, appear a faint purple line on the horizon, so small as to be 
 scarcely visible; the purity of the atmosphere enables the eye to discern 
 the most distant objects with accuracy, and the brilliant sunshine gives 
 inconceivable splendour to every part of the scene; each antique spire 
 and curiously-wrought tower sparkles brightly in its beams, whilst the 
 dark foliage of fine trees, even in the heart of the city, relieves the eye, 
 and produces a beautiful and pleasing effect. 
 
 Milan, anciently called Mediolanum, is supposed to have been founded 
 by the Gauls, nearly six hundred years before the Christian era, and was 
 governed consecutively by the Romans (under whom it flourished long 
 and splendidly, being frequently the residence of the Emperors), the 
 Goths, and the Lombards; after the destruction of the kingdom of 
 Lombardy by Charlemagne, it was subject to the Emperors of the West; 
 
4 
 
 but having shown impatience of the yoke, Frederick Barbarossa, in 1162, 
 destroyed the walls, gates, and principal edifices, with the exception of 
 three churches, sowed salt on the ruins, and compelled the inhabitants to 
 submit to the greatest indignities; recovering very slowly from this 
 destruction, it became subject, in succession, to the families of the Torriani, 
 Visconti, and Sforza ; and, when governed by its dukes, gave laws to the 
 other states of Italy. In 1536, Charles V. seized Milan as a fief of the 
 empire, and gave it to his son, Philip II., whose successors, kings of 
 Spain, held it until 1706, when it was appended by Joseph I. to the crown 
 of Austria, at which period it was a place of great importance, capable of 
 raising 30,000 men atarms. In 1796 it was subdued by the French, and 
 formed part of the Cisalpine Republic ; in 1799 it was taken by the allied 
 Russians and Austrians; and the following year, after the battle of 
 Marengo, was retaken by Buonaparte, and continued the seat of his 
 Viceroy, Eugene Beauharnois, until 1814, when it was restored to Austria; 
 being on the borders of Italy, it has been continually exposed to the 
 ravages of war, and has often fallen beneath its barbarous invaders; it has 
 been forty times besieged, twenty times taken and sacked, and four times 
 almost entirely destroyed ; it has also suffered much from internal discord, 
 but has always rose from its misfortunes with renewed lustre, and still 
 ranks as one of the finest cities of Italy. 
 
 The form of the city is nearly circular, about ten miles in circumference, 
 although perhaps the thickly built and more densely populated part may 
 be confined to an area of half that size. There are several large and 
 handsome squares, but the streets, with very few exceptions, are neither 
 wide or regular; the pavement is formed like that of Paris, of small sharp 
 pebbles, with occasionally a narrow footway on each side, and the addition 
 of two (or in the wider streets four) strips of flat stones in the centre, 
 forming a sort of railway, on which the carriage wheels run with great 
 smoothness and very little noise. The churches, hospitals, establishments 
 for the poor, and other public institutions, are numerous, and display all 
 the richness and magnificence of Italian architecture, and are at the same 
 time endowed on a most liberal scale; the ancient palaces of the nobles, 
 vast and rude, bear stamp of the importance of the city in the middle 
 ages, when they served as domestic fortresses, and lodged well-appointed 
 and numerous retinues; and although they cannot at present vie with 
 those of Rome or Genoa, yet they display considerable architectural 
 luxury, and contain fine collections of works of art; attached to 
 many are large and well-stocked gardens, which add much to the beauty 
 of the city. Very little regard is paid to regularity of appearance in the 
 general buildings; they vary in height, from two to five stories, and are 
 built of brick, or granite from the Lago Maggiori, plastered, coloured, 
 or ornamented, according to the taste of the owner; many are still without 
 the luxury of glass in the windows; the shops are numerous and well 
 furnished ; their entrances, as well as those of the coffee-houses, are fre¬ 
 quently defended only by a coloured drapery, which, with the silk and 
 tapestry hung at the church doors, and occasionally from the balconies, &c. 
 has a gay and pleasing effect; indeed the whole appearance of the city ; 
 is cheerful and flourishing. The population is estimated at about 150,000, 
 
5 
 
 
 who are, generally speaking, an active and intelligent set of people. 
 During winter the city is inhabited by a vast number of persons of 
 rank and fortune, who formerly displayed in their mansions and style ot 
 living a degree of splendour and magnificence unknown in other parts of 
 Italy, and who still make great show in the decorations of their carriages 
 and in the number and liveries of their servants. The season of the 
 Carnival is peculiarly devoted to the exhibition of pomp and pleasure, 
 and the citizens are privileged to hold it four days longer than at any 
 other place in the Pope’s dominions. The latest French fashions are the 
 prevailing costume; the only peculiarity in female dress being the total 
 absence of bonnets, a transparent veil of black or white, or a thin muslin 
 cap being substituted; a fan also is generally carried. 
 
EXPLANATION OF THE ENGRAVING. 
 
 1 .—Santa Maria delle Grazie. 
 
 A church much venerated by the Milanese, founded by the Jacobins 
 in 1463, and repaired and beautified at a great cost by L. Sforza, in 1492. 
 The facade is Gothic, and the interior is divided into three naves, with a 
 splendid dome; the chapels, which form a semi-circle on each side, are from 
 the designs of Bramante, and contain many fine paintings, by Leonardo 
 da Vinci and his pupils. Those of the Virgin, and the Borromeo family, 
 are particularly fine ; the former contains the Maria delle Grazie, a wax 
 figure, the size of life, with luxuriant ringlets, in a rich brocade dress 
 covered with gems, and an Infant in her arms, with a flaxen frizzed wig; 
 around the figure hangs petticoats, stays, and every article of female 
 dress, votive offerings of true believers. The adjoining convent now forms 
 barracks for the city guards, and the corps of firemen ; in the refectory, a 
 large unornamented room, is the celebrated Cenecola, or “ Last Supper,” 
 of Leonardo da Vinci, on which he was employed sixteen years, which, 
 after having existed 350 years, and undergone various misfortunes, is now 
 nearly defaced. In the same room is a second painting, of the Crucifixion, 
 by Montafarno, in better preservation. 
 
 2 .—San Maurizio. 
 
 A very ancient church, many parts of which are supposed to have be¬ 
 longed to a temple of Jupiter, which occupied the site; it was one of the 
 three churches spared by order of Barbarossa, when he destroyed the 
 city. The others were the cathedral and St. Ambrogio. The present 
 church is partly the old one repaired, and in part rebuilt from a plan by 
 Dolcebono, with a fine facade by Pirovano; it contains many ancient 
 monuments and works of art. The monastery attached, called Monastero 
 Maggiore, from its antiquity, and the privileges granted it, serves as a 
 refuge for those expelled from the suppressed houses. The two ancient 
 circular towers formed the prisons of the martyred saints, Gervaise, 
 Protaise, Victor, &c. 
 
 3 .—Santa Maria Segrcta. 
 
 An ancient church, built in the eleventh century, and reduced to 
 its present state in the seventeenth, by Galliari. 
 
7 
 
 4 .—Archirio Pubblico. 
 
 A large building, erected in 1233, for the safe keeping of the public 
 archives. It is surrounded by other buildings, being offices of the dif¬ 
 ferent tribunals, and the whole forms a kind of exchange. 
 
 9 -— Castello. 
 
 Two ancient towers are all that remain of the old ducal fortress, demo¬ 
 lished in 1801, when commodious barracks for infantry and cavalry, with 
 a noble entrance of red granite were erected, under the superintendence 
 of Colonel Rossi. Adjacent, is the celebrated Arco de Trionfo, erected 
 by Buonaparte, to celebrate his victories in Italy. 
 
 10 .— Broletto , Prefettura Dip le ■ e Municip. 
 
 The ancient palace of P. M. Visconti, afterwards the residence of the 
 Carmagnola family, from whom it was confiscated in 1605, and presented 
 to the city. It is very large, and forms the residence of the magistrates 
 of the municipal and provincial bodies, their offices, and the depository 
 of their archives. 
 
 11 .—San Tomaso in Terramala. 
 
 A small church, of one nave, with six chapels, containing some good 
 paintings. It is said to have gained its name from J. M. Visconti having 
 ordered a cure to be buried alive, who refused to perform the funeral 
 service over a person whose friends were too poor to pay the fees. 
 
 12 .—Palazzo Clerici. 
 
 Formerly one of the finest and best furnished of the palaces, now the 
 offices of the civil tribunals of the first instance: many of the ceilings are 
 finely painted by Tiepolo, the only remains of its former greatness. 
 
 13 .—San Protaso ad Monacos. 
 
 A small neat church, of one nave, with six chapels, from a plan by 
 Pelligrini, erected on the ruins of the house of Saints Gervaise and 
 Protaise, martyred in the year 77. 
 
 14 .— Arena. 
 
 A building in the form of the ancient amphitheatre on the Piazzo di 
 Castello, erected by Buonaparte, from the designs of Canonica, in 1806. 
 Here he witnessed, in person, the rejoicings that celebrated the birth of 
 his son. The principal gate is of granite, with four columns, and a frieze 
 of the Doric order. The pulvinare, for the royal family, is a fine building 
 of the Corinthian order, with pillars of red granite; the seats, which are of 
 turf, will accommodate 40,000 persons. The arena can be filled with 
 water for nuumachia , &c. 
 
8 
 
 19 .—Santa Maria del Carmine. 
 
 Erected in the thirteenth century, by the Carmelites, and at a sub¬ 
 sequent period rebuilt, in a fine Gothic style, by Richini; the chapels are 
 adorned with many rare works of art. 
 
 20 .— Teatro Filo Dramatico. 
 
 Erected on the ruins of a monastery, by a society of amateurs, under 
 the title of Philo Dramatic Academy. It is composed of academicians, 
 associate performers, and pupils. The theatre has four tier of very com¬ 
 modious boxes, and will hold 800 persons. The performances are once a 
 week; the admission by tickets, from the members only. 
 
 21 .—San Simpliciano. 
 
 A neat Gothic church, originally erected by St. Ambrose, but took the 
 name of Simpliciano, when that saint was interred in it, in the year 400. 
 The adjoining convent is converted into barracks, for the guard of honour 
 and a regiment of cavalry. 
 
 22 .— Teatro della Scala. 
 
 This noble and well known theatre, the largest in Europe, may be con¬ 
 sidered, for accommodation, splendour, and ingenuity, a chef d’ceuvre. It 
 was erected on the ruins of the church of Santa Maria della Scala, by the 
 celebrated Piermarini, in 1768. The fafade, in the Composite order, is very 
 handsome ; the interior contains six circles of boxes, of forty-seven in each 
 tier, having small retiring apartments behind every one; the royal saloon 
 occupies the space of three boxes, three tier in height, in the centre of the 
 house. The whole will accommodate 3200 spectators. 
 
 23 .— Brera. 
 
 A vast, noble, and solid edifice, of the Doric order, by F. Richini, 
 formerly belonging to the Jesuits, now the college of fine arts; in which 
 are the schools of painting, sculpture, engraving, &c. The building is of 
 two stories ; in the upper is the pinacoteca, or national gallery, formed by 
 the French, of all that could be purchased or collected from the suppressed 
 monasteries, forming together a noble collection. Other halls are also 
 filled with statues, busts, casts, models, and every description of works of 
 art. The library contains about 70,000 printed books and manuscripts, 
 some very scarce, and valuable. The observatory is a square well-con¬ 
 structed edifice, erected for the Jesuits in 1766, by the celebrated 
 astronomer Boscovich : it is furnished with a good collection of French, 
 English, and German instruments, and a small astronomical library. The 
 botanical garden is kept in good order, and contains many curious plants. 
 
 28 .— Cathedral. 
 
 This grand and imposing specimen of pointed Gothic architecture, the 
 finest extant (by the natives termed the eighth wonder of the world). 
 
9 
 
 stands near the centre of the city, and may, on many accounts, be con¬ 
 sidered one of the most stately and splendid foundations of Italy. It ranks 
 next in size to St. Peter’s, being in length 490 feet, in breadth 298, in 
 height, internally, 260, and externally, to the top of the tower, 400; unlike 
 most buildings of the kind it is not cased, but is composed, in all its 
 parts, even to the covering of the roof, of solid fine white marble, every 
 piece most elaborately carved, and connected together by a cement, 
 which has the durability and appearance of stone itself; the whole is re¬ 
 markable for extreme lightness of construction, elegance of form, and 
 resplendent brilliancy of material. The foundation was laid in 1386, by 
 Giovanni Galeazzo Visconti, Duke of Milan, in fulfilment of a vow made 
 by him to the Virgin ; and from the vast number of artists employed, and 
 the immense sums annually expended on the work, it appears almost in¬ 
 credible that, after 400 years, it should have been in an unfinished state, 
 yet such was the fact; the munificent donations given and left by various 
 individuals, amongst whom, a citizen named Carcano gave, in one sum, 
 230,000 crowns of gold, were all expended, and the work standing still, 
 when Buonaparte, viewing it, as every one must do, with admiration and 
 delight, gave orders in 1805, for the completion of the fa 5 ade (which had 
 been commenced at the expense of San Charles Borromeo, by the cele¬ 
 brated Pellegrini), and provided for the purpose five millions of Milanese 
 livres, arising from property belonging to the church itself. The original 
 plans having been lost, new ones were furnished, by Carlo Amati and 
 Giuseppe Zanojo, and in about three years the whole was finished, in its 
 present gorgeous and splendid style : this part alone contains 250 statues, 
 forty-two bassi-relievi, and innumerable other sculptured ornaments. 
 
 The cathedral stands in a square, unfortunately not parallel with the 
 front, partly occupied by the royal palace, a handsome building, yet being 
 of the Ionic order, ill suited to the cathedral, to which all should be sub¬ 
 servient, and partly by a line of ancient buildings, supported on slender 
 Gothic pillars, under the arcades of which are a range of shops. A broad 
 flight of steps leads to the superb fapade, and five gates open to the five 
 naves ; these doors and the lower windows are the remains of Pellegrini’s 
 plan, and, having Roman pilasters and pediments, are discordant with the 
 Gothic ornaments by which they are surrounded. The front forms a 
 pyramid, rising in a straight line from the sides, without divisions, the 
 want of which gives it a great breadth to the eye ; pillars or buttresses, sup¬ 
 ported on the shoulders of colossal figures, rise between the doors to the 
 whole height of the building, and terminate in most beautiful pinnacles 
 surmounted by statues; the niches of these buttresses are filled with sta¬ 
 tues, and the pedestals enriched with bassi-relievi; indeed every part is 
 decorated with seulpture by the first Italian artists. Over the principal 
 entrance is a fine bas relief, representing the formation of Eve, by G. 
 Vismara, for which he was paid 33,000 livres. Over the side doors are 
 portions of the histories of Judith and the Queen of Sheba, by the same 
 artist; of Esther, by C. Biffi; and of Sisera, by P. Lasagna; each of which 
 cost upwards of 5000 livres. The flowers and fruit are the work of Bono 
 and Castelli; and the modern ornaments are from the chisels of the most 
 approved artists, after the designs of Felix Soave. Over the dome of the 
 
10 
 
 church rises a tower, with a spire or obelisk, which, although in itself 
 elegant, rich, and fantastic, and extremely ingenious in its construction, 
 from its insignificant size adds but little to the beauty or magnificence of 
 the structure; it was erected in 17G3, and is surmounted by a large figure 
 of the Virgin, of copper gilt; from the tower is an extensive and beautiful 
 view. 
 
 The interior, being much broader in proportion to its length than 
 Gothic churches usually are, is divided into five naves by four rows of 
 columns, or rather clusters of pillars, eighty feet in height, having niches 
 filled with statues, and heavy frowning capitals. The pavement is of 
 coloured marbles, disposed in various figures, and the whole is vast and 
 sombre. The chancel is separated from the naves by its superior height; 
 in the front, on four additional steps, stands the great altar, having behind 
 it the semi-circular choir, so the altar is between the clergy and the 
 people; one of the large pillars on either side is surrounded by a bronze 
 pulpit, supported by gigantic figures of the same material; the interior of 
 the choir is ornamented with fine carving of every description, particu¬ 
 larly in wood, which is highly esteemed. Numerous statues embellish 
 every part of the church, the total number being about 11,000. The 
 most remarkable in the interior is that of St. Bartholomew, just flead 
 alive, with his skin hanging over his shoulders; the muscles are well dis¬ 
 played, but it is rather a disgusting sight; it was the work of Agrati. 
 There are also many good sepulchral monuments. A subterranean chapel, 
 under the great altar, contains the remains of the good and pious St. 
 Charles Borromeo, who died in 1584. It is of an octagonal form, fifteen feet 
 in diameter, lined with silver, divided into panels, representing in relief 
 the principal actions in the life of the saint, whose body, dressed in full 
 pontifical robes of gold brocade, with a mitre and crown enriched with 
 jewels, lies near the altar, in a shrine of rock crystal; this shrine was 
 presented to the cathedral by Philip IV. of Spain. The pieces of crystal 
 are about ten inches square, so clear and fine, that they are more valuable 
 than their weight in gold. 
 
 30.— Crema. 
 
 A considerable town in the Venetian territory, twenty miles N.W. 
 from Cremona. 
 
 32.— Cremona. 
 
 A city of Lombardy, celebrated for its silk manufactories, and long 
 noted for the excellence of its violins, thirty-eight miles from Milan. 
 
 33 .—San Stefano Magno. 
 
 Formerly a collegiate, now a parish church, supposed to have been 
 erected by Bishop Martinien, in the fifth century; destroyed by fire in 
 the eleventh, and rebuilt. The present church was erected in 1G9G, by 
 the Cardinal F. Borromeo, from a plan by Aurele Trezzi. The interior 
 is very neat, and well arranged ; it consists of three naves, and has six 
 
11 
 
 niches on either side, in which are as many chapels, containing some fine 
 paintings. The ancient clock tower, which had been preserved, having 
 fallen, the present handsome one was erected by Jerome Quadri. 
 
 34.— Lodi. 
 
 A large town on the Adda, over which it has a bridge of wood, 600 feet 
 in length, celebrated for having been forced in a most extraordinarily 
 bold and intrepid manner, by Buonaparte, in 1796. Sixteen miles from 
 Pavia. 
 
 36 .—Sail Barnaba. 
 
 Founded in 1545 by a new order, called Barnabite, and established by 
 three fathers, to whom one Alexander Taegio gave the ground necessary 
 for the church and convent. The church is very neat, of a single nave, 
 with three chapels on each side, and a large presbytery and choir. At the 
 suppression of religious houses, the church and convent were purchased 
 by J. M. Andreani, and assigned as a refuge for those turned from other 
 houses, and some old and infirm priests, to whom he affords succour, who 
 form a community for the service of the church. 
 
 38 .—Santa Cattarina. 
 
 A branch of the great hospital, for the reception of pregnant women 
 and foundlings ; of the latter, about 4000 are received annually in a 
 turning-box at the entrance. The establishment is well conducted, and 
 the women treated with every care and kindness their situation requires ; 
 the foundlings are educated, some in the house, others in various parts of 
 the country ; most of the females are taught the art of midwifery, and 
 when married are presented with a dowry of 75 livres, 75 centimes. 
 
 39 .—Palazzo Reale. 
 
 A large and handsome building, of the Ionic order, in the Piazza del 
 Duotno, principally erected in the last century, a small portion only of the 
 old ducal palace having been preserved. A spacious court and fine stair¬ 
 case conducts to a noble suite of apartments, about fifty in number, fur¬ 
 nished with every comfort and luxury during the French dominion, for 
 the residence of their viceroy, Eugene Beauharnois. The ball room, a 
 noble apartment, 120 feet long, is surrounded by a gallery supported by 
 caryatides, finely modelled by Albertolli, between which are large mirrors 
 and superb draperies ol silk, in good taste. In another apartment is 
 some valuable Gobelin tapestry, representing the Cartoons at Windsor 
 Castle. Most of the ceilings are painted in fresco, by Appiani ; on that 
 of the audience chamber he has introduced the Apotheosis of Buona¬ 
 parte. The floors are inlaid with walnut, cherry, and white hornbeam 
 wood ; a few good busts are scattered about, but very few other works of 
 art. The small church of St. Gottardo, forming a chapel to the palace, is 
 very ancient, and has been often repaired—recently by Canonica. It 
 contains some fine stuccoes by Albertolli, and a few paintings. 
 
12 
 
 40 .—Torre della Capella San Gottardo. 
 
 This tower, belonging to the palace chapel, was erected in 1336, and 
 is considered a fine piece of architecture; it is surmounted by a large 
 figure of an angel, in copper gilt, which turns with the wind. The 
 clock in this tower is said to have been the first made to strike the hours. 
 
 41 . —Porta Romana. 
 
 Erected in 1598, from a plan by Martin Bassi, in honour of the entree 
 of Margaret of Austria, wife of Philip III., King of Spain and Duke of 
 Milan. It is a very handsome stone building, of the Doric order. The 
 wide street leading to this gate, called the Corso di Porta Romana, is a 
 much-frequented promenade. 
 
 42 . —Ospedale Grande. 
 
 The great hospital is a large and handsome building, forming a long 
 parallelogram divided into three nearly equal parts ; the centre forms one 
 handsome court 300 feet square, surrounded by an arcade of Ionic 
 pillars of granite ; above which is a gallery or second arcade, in the com¬ 
 posite style : the wings on each side are divided each into four small 
 courts. The facade of the whole is not uniform, having been erected at 
 different periods. This grand and useful establishment owes its founda¬ 
 tion to Sforza IV., Duke of Milan, and his wife Blanche, by whom one 
 wing was built in 1456. In 1610, J. P. Carcano completed the work, by 
 adding the centre and remaining wing, with a chapel, &c. from the 
 designs of Richini. The beds are arranged in single rows in large well- 
 ventilated halls, and every thing conducive to cleanliness and comfort is 
 provided. The ordinary number of patients is 1200, but 2000 have been 
 accommodated on extraordinary occasions. The poor are received gra¬ 
 tuitously ; those who can afford it pay a small sum. Portraits of all the 
 benefactors to the establishment are taken, which are publicly exhibited 
 once a year. 
 
 43 .—Santa Maria del Paradiso. 
 
 A very handsome church, the roof of which is finely painted with the 
 Assumption, by Ferdinand Porter; the walls are also decorated with 
 many rare and valuable paintings. In the convent, formerly occupied by 
 Franciscans, is established a manufactory of velvet, tapestry, satin, and 
 gold and silver stuffs, of the richest and finest kinds. 
 
 44 .—San Nazaro Mag. 
 
 This edifice is said to have been erected by St. Ambrose, in the year 
 382, to contain the body of St. Nazaro. A kind of sepulchre serves as a 
 vestibule to the church. It is ornamented with Doric pillars, but the 
 facade is not finished; the upper part is modern Ionic, with square win¬ 
 dows and a dome and lantern ; it has three doors. The interior is 
 octagonal, very simple in its architecture. Three doors again lead into 
 the church, which is square and irregular, and bears marks of great age. 
 
13 
 
 45 .—Santa Sofia. 
 
 Founded by St. Charles, for the education of the children of the poor, 
 who at the time of the plague, in 1576, were very numerous. In 1715, the 
 nuns of the Visitation were charged with its direction, under whose care 
 it still remains. The Emperor Joseph II. gave a large portion of the sup¬ 
 pressed convent of St. Appollinaire to increase its size. Fifty girls are 
 admitted. 
 
 46 .— Pavia. 
 
 A very ancient and considerable town on the Ticino, four miles from its 
 junction with the Po. Milan derives from this place and its neighbour¬ 
 hood large supplies of wine and cheese, brought by canal. 
 
 47 .— Certosa. 
 
 A considerable town in the Milanese, five miles from Pavia. 
 
 48 . — San Celso. 
 
 Said to have been erected in the year 396, to contain the relics of 
 St. Celso, brought by St. Ambrose; in 992 it was rebuilt, and attached to 
 a considerable monastery of regular monks, which has been suppressed, 
 and partly demolished ; the church contains some fine old paintings. 
 
 49 . — San Paola. 
 
 Formerly attached to a convent of Augustines, of which it is the only 
 remnant; it was erected in 1531 by the Countess Torelli, who expended 
 80,000 crowns of gold on the work ; the plan was by G. Alessi ; the 
 facade, which is very judiciously and richly ornamented, by Cerano ; and 
 the many statues, bas reliefs, &c., with which it is covered, by the best 
 artists of the day ; the interior forms a single nave with three chapels on 
 each side, richly decorated. Immediately above is seen the roof of 
 San Lucca, a handsome edifice, formerly belonging to the Benedictine 
 monks, whose order having been suppressed, it was opened as a college 
 for the orphans of military men in 1802; the number received is 300; of 
 these, 50 pay a small pension, the remainder are received gratuitously ; 
 they remain until they are eighteen years of age, when, if deserving, 
 they receive considerable military advancement. 
 
 50 .— Naviglio di Pavia. 
 
 This fine canal was commenced in the sixteenth century, but from 
 various political causes was shortly suspended. In 1805 the French re¬ 
 commenced the work; in 1814 it was navigable three-fourths of its 
 course, and in 1819 its junction with the Ticino was completed. It is 
 eighteen miles and a half long, and has twelve locks ; the expense was 
 7,694,707 francs. 
 
14 
 
 51 .—Specola Moscati. 
 
 Formerly the tower of a suppressed monastery, recently formed into 
 an observatory by the Count Moscati, a gentleman well known for his 
 talents and liberal encouragement of science, who has furnished it with 
 a fine collection of instruments. 
 
 52 .—San Eustorgio. 
 
 The foundation of this church is supposed to be the most ancient in 
 the city; it is said to have been erected in the fourth century, by San 
 Eustorgio, to contain the bodies of the three Eastern Magi who wor¬ 
 shipped our Saviour, which he brought from Constantinople. The 
 church has been several times destroyed and rebuilt, lastly from a plan 
 by Richini; the interior contains a fine Gothic shrine, in which are the 
 remains of St. Peter, the Dominican martyr; the tower, which from its 
 height and architecture is an ornament to the city, was erected in 1309, 
 and disputes with St. Gottardo the honour of having the first clock that 
 struck the hours. 
 
 53 .—Palazzo Sforzia Visconti. 
 
 The ancient residence of this remarkable family at present belongs to 
 the family of Erba Odescalchi, who reside in a more modern and elegant 
 building adjoining, erected from a plan by Pellegrini. 
 
 54 .—San Alessandro. 
 
 An ancient church, rebuilt in 1602, from a plan by L. Binagni; it is 
 in the form of a Greek cross, in the Corinthian order, with a magnificent 
 dome; it has a fine but badly executed facade; the interior forms three 
 naves, and is celebrated for the costliness of its ornaments; the grand 
 altar, pulpit, and fine brass gates, are enriched with precious stones of 
 great value, partly the gift of the Marquess Modrone. 
 
 55 .—San Lorenzo. 
 
 An ancient church, rebuilt on its old foundation by S. C. Borromeo, 
 from a design by Bassi; it is of an octangular form, with four recesses, 
 forming three large chapels and the entrance; it has a fine cupola; the 
 four ancient towers, at the four corners, are remains of the former build¬ 
 ing ; the interior contains many rare works of art. In front of this church 
 stands the only remnant of antiquity Milan can boast, being sixteen beau¬ 
 tiful fluted columns of the Corinthian order, twenty-five feet in height, 
 with a frieze, found walled up amongst the buildings of a neighbouring 
 tannery; the inscription leads to the supposition that they formed the 
 colonnade to the baths of Maximium. 
 
15 
 
 5C).—La Vittorio,. 
 
 Erected in 1669, from a plan by Bernini, at the expense of Cardinal 
 L. Homodei, and attached to a considerable monastery now suppressed ; 
 the church is square, solid, and handsome; the fagade is still unfinished. 
 
 57 .—San Satiro. 
 
 This church, dedicated to the Virgin, was erected by order of 
 L. M. Sforza, from a design by Bramante; it consists of three naves, and 
 is in the form of a letter T, space being wanted to finish the last arm of 
 the cross ; this defect is ingeniously supplied internally by a fine arched 
 perspective in has relief, painted by Vasari. This church is generally 
 called St. Satiro, from being attached to a chapel erected in 869 by Arch¬ 
 bishop Aspert Confalonieri, in his palace, and dedicated to that Saint, who 
 was the brother of St. Ambrogio. 
 
 58 .—San Sebastiano. 
 
 Erected in 1576, from a plan by Pellegrini, in fulfilment of a vow 
 made by the citizens when the city was afflicted with the plague: it is 
 of two orders, the lower Doric, the upper Ionic, richly ornamented and 
 surmounted by a dome ; the choir is octagonal with a circular dome, and 
 the whole forms one of the finest buildings in the city. 
 
 60 .— Turin. 
 
 A large city of Piedmont, on the Po, 75 miles from Milan; it is the 
 capital and seat of the Sardinian monarchy, and was the scene of much 
 contention between the French and Austrians during the late war. 
 
 62 .—Biblioteca Ambrosiana. 
 
 This library, well known through Europe, is perhaps the finest 
 establishment of the kind ever founded by a single individual; it was 
 opened to the public in 1609, at the sole expense of Cardinal Fred. 
 Borromeo, nephew to the saint; it consists of 60,000 volumes and 15,000 
 rare and curious manuscripts. There is also a small collection of paintings, 
 but so fine that thirty-six of them were taken to Paris by Buonaparte ; 
 also some statues, casts, and antiquities ; the whole well arranged, in a 
 noble building erected for the purpose from the designs of F. Mungone. 
 
 64 .—San Ambrogio. 
 
 The most ancient and most remarkable church in the city, erected in 
 the fourth century on the ruins of the Temple of Minerva; it consists of 
 three naves, surmounted by a dome. St. Ambrose, who was Arch¬ 
 bishop of Milan from 375 to 397, used to preach in this church, in which 
 his liturgy is still used, and the curiously carved Cyprus-wood gates are 
 said to be those he closed against the Emperor Theodosius after the 
 massacre of the citizens of Thessalonica, although most persons consider 
 them the work of the ninth century. The church contains a fine monu- 
 
16 
 
 ment to the Saint’s sister, by Canova, the tombs of several of 
 Longobardic kings, the ancient stone chair in which the Archbishops r 
 robed before they proceed to the cathedral, and many fine works of art 
 sculpture, mosaic, and painting. The adjoining large monastery, buih 
 1498, by L. Sforza, was suppressed in 1797, and now forms a militr 
 hospital. In the ancient and dilapidated cloisters are many remnants 
 antiquity. 
 
 65 .—San Vittore. 
 
 Called in St. Ambrose’s time Basilica Portiana, and ennobled by 
 connection with that saint and his contests with the Arians. The chur 
 was rebuilt in 1542 in its present state by the Oliventan monks, to wh» 
 the adjoining convent belonged; the facade is not yet finished; f 
 interior forms three naves, divided by Corinthian columns, and is rick 
 adorned with paintings, &c. ; the dome is finely painted by Crespi, a 
 Moncalvo. The monastery was converted at its dissolution into cava) 
 barracks. 
 
 FINIS. 
 
 Printed by T. Brettell , Rupert Street , Haymarhet, London.