JFRONTISPITECIE A TRIP T O A R I I N JULT and AUGUST, 1792. B V MR. T W I S S. 2D.uM(tt: W. WILSON, CONTENTS. ROAD from Calais. Unneceflary Paflports.. Chantilly I Expenfes 7 Mifcellaneous Obfervations. Chefs-men. Tree of Liberty. Crucifixes. Virgins. Saints. Bifhops. Old Women - 10 Wall round Paris. New Bridge. Field of the Federation. Baftille - - 19 Coins and Tokens 24 Theatres - - - - - 3 1 Pantheon. Jacobins. Quai Voltaire. Rue Roufleau. Cockades - - "35 Execution of two Criminals with a behead- ing machine - - - - 41 Verfailles. Botany. Sounding meridians 49 Dogs and Cats. Two-headed Boy - 64 Mifcellanies. Books burnt. Chefs. Convents 70 Drefs. Inns - - - - 83 Aflignats CONTENTS. Aflignats 88 Battle and Maffacre at the Tuileries - 92 Statues of Kings pulled down. New Names 109 Beheading. Dead naked Bcdjes - - 116 Courage and Curiofity of the Fair Sex. Maffacre in 1572 - - - - 121 Mifcellanies. Number of flam - - 129 Breeches. Pikes. Neceffary Paffports 137 Mifcellanies. Dancing. Poultry. Taverns. Wig^ - - - - - - 145 Extent, Population, &c. of France - 151 Emendations and Additions. Return to Calais 162 Epilogue - » - - - 170 TRIP T O PARIS. ROAD FROM CALAIS. UNNECESSARY PASSPORTS. CHANTILLY. The following excurfion was under- taken for feveral reafons : the firft of which was, that though I had been many times in Paris before, yet I had net once been there fmce the Revolution, and I was defirous of feeing how far a refidence of a few years in France might be prac- ticable and agreeable ; fecondly, a Coun- ter-Revolution, or, at leaft, fome violent B meafures [ 2 ] taeafures were expe&ed, and I was will- ing to be there at the time, if poffible ; and laftly, I wanted to examine the gar- dens near Paris. • I mull here premife that I fent for a pafiport from the Secretary of State's of- fice, which I knew could do no harm if it did no good, thinking I ihould have it for nothing, and obtained one figned by Lord Grenville, but at the fame time a demand was made for two guineas and Jixpence for the fees ; now, as I have had palfports from almoft all the European nations, all and every one of which were gratis, I fent the pafs back ; it was how- ever immediately returned to me, and I was told that, " A paiTport is never ifliied from that office without that fee, even if the party afking for it changes his mind." I paid the money, and that is all I Jhall fay about the matter. Mr. [ 3 ] Mr. Chauvelin (the minifter from France) fent me his pafs gratis ; thole which I afterwards received in Paris from Lord Gozver, and the very effential one from Mr. Petion, were likewile^/7?//V. That of Air. Chauvelin has at the top a fmall engraving of three Fleurs de Lys between two oak branches, furmounted by a crown : at the bottom is another fmall engraving, with his cypher F. C. it was dated London, 1 7th July, 1 792, 4th year of Liberty, No pajfport of any kind, is neceffary to enter France. At Calais one was given to me by the magiftrates, mentioning my age, ftature, complexion, &c. and this would have been a fufficient permit for my going out of France by fea or by land, if the difturbances in Paris, of the I Oth of Auguft, had not happened* I em- [ 4 ] . I embarked at Dover on the 25th July, at one in the afternoon, and landed at Calais after a pleafant paffage of three hours and a half. I immediately procured a national cockade, which was a filk ribband, with blue, white, and red ftripes ; changed twenty guineas for forty livres each, in paper, (the real value is not more than twenty-five livres) hired a cabriolet, or two wheeled poft-chaifeof Dejfin, (which was to take me to Paris, and bring me back in a month) for three louis (Tors in money, bought apoft-book, drank a bot- tle of Burgundy, and fet off dire&ly for Marquife (about fifteen miles) where I paffed the night. The next day, 26th, I proceeded only to Abbeville, and it was ten at night when I got there, becaufe a gentleman in the chaife with me, and another gentleman [ $ ] gentleman and his wife, who had not been in France before, and who accom- panied us all the way to Paris, wifhed to fee Boulogne. We accordingly walked round the ramparts, and then went on. The 27th we remained a few hours at Amiens^ and faw the cathedral, and the engine which fupplies the city with water, called La Tour d^Eau. We flept at Breteuil) w r hich is a paltry town ( Bourg.) The 28th. We were five hours occu- pied in feeing Chantilly. This palace is the moft magnificent of any in Europe, not belonging to a fovereign. In the cabinet of natural hiftory, (which has lately been very confiderably augmented, by the addition of that of Mr. Valmont de Bom are, who arranged the whole) I obferved the foetus of a whale, about fourteen inches long, preferved in fpirits; B 3 and t 6 ] and the fkin of a wolf fluffed. I faw this identical wolf at Montargis, a palace beyond Fontainebleau, in 1784, foon after it had been (hot. The carp came, as ufual, to be fed by hand. Some of them are faid to have been here above a century. As to the gardens, they are well known ; all that I fhall fay is, that they do not contain a fingle curious tree, fhrub, or flower. We hired a lan- dau, at the inn, to drive us about thefe gardens, and in the evening proceeded to St. Denis, which is only a fingle pofl from Paris, where we remained, as it would not have been fo convenient to feek for a lodging there at night. The next day, Sunday 29th, early in the morning, we entered Paris, and put up at the Hotel d'EJpagne, Rue du Co- lombkr, and in the evening went to the opera of Corifandre. EXPENSES* [ 7 ] EXPENSES. THE whole expenfes of our journey from Calais to Paris was as follows. The diftance is thirty-four polls and a half, the laft of which muft be paid double.* The two chaifes were each drawn by two horfes, at 30 fous per horfe, and 20 fous to each poftilion per poft, is 35 and a half pofts, at eight livres^ is - - - - - Livres 284 Greafmg the wheels and extra gra- tifications to drivers, about 32 The fees for feeing Chantilly, in- cluding the hire of a carriage, 24 Inns on the road, four days and four nights, about 200 Liv. 540 This, * A poft is about two leagues, or between four and fix miles, as the pofthoufes are not exactly at the fame diftance from each other. [ 8 ] This, at 40 livres per guinea, amounts to thirteen guineas and a half ; to which muft be added, for the hire of the two chaifes to Paris, three Loins in money, adequate to three pounds fterling, which altogether amounts to about four guineas each perfon, travelling poft above two hundred miles, and faring fumptuoufly on the road, drinking Burgundy and Champagne, and being as well received at the inns as if the expenfes had been quadrupled. One hot meal a day, at three livres a head, one livre for each bed, and the wine paid for apart, was the cuftomary allowance. After this manner I have travelled feveral times all over France, to Bourdeaux, Touloufe, Montpelier, Marfeille, Toulon, Uteres, Avignon, Lyon, £sfc. Had the exchange been at par, the expenfe would have been doubled? in Englilh money ; but even then would have [ 9 ] have been very reafonable, compared to the coft of a fimilar journey in Eng- land. At Paris I received 42 livres 15 fous for each guinea ; foon after which I was paid forty-two livres for every pound fterling which I drew on London : on my return to Calais I found the ex- change to be forty-four livres per guinea, and once it was as high as forty-nine. This, of courfe, very much injures the trade between England and France ; but, for the fame reafon, Engliih families refiding in France at prefent, almoft double their income, by drawing bills on London for fuch income, and it will probably be many years before the ex- change will be at par again. MISCEL- [ ™ ] MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS. CHESS- MEN. TREE OF LIBERTY. CRUCIFIXES. VIRGINS. SAINTS. BISHOPS. OLD WOMEN, &c. ) THE whole way from Calais to Paris the land was in the higheft ftate of cul- tivation. The fandy foil near the gates of Calais abounded with the Chdidonium Glauclum % or common yellow homed poppy. The firft vines on this road are about a mile on this fide of Breteuil. Between St. Juft*and Clermont is a magnificent chateau and garden belong- ing to the ci-devant Due de Fitzjames : this feat has never been defcribed ; it is not fhewn to ftrangers at prefent, as the proprietor is emigrated. The [ » ] The country all around Chantilly, con- fifts of corn-fields ; formerly it appeared barren, becaufe the immenfe quantity of game which infefted and over-ran it devoured all the crops and ruined the farmers, who were lent to the gallies if they fhot a bird. I paffed this way in 1783 and 1784, and faw vafl numbers of pheafants, par- tridges, and hares crofs the road, and feed by the fide of it, as tame as poultry in a farm-yard ; but at prefent the game is all deftroyed; neither are there any more wild boars in the foreft, which is of 7600 acres. Thefe animals ftill inhabit the foreft of Fontainebleau. This foreft (which covers almoft four times as much ground as that of Chantilly contains a greater number of trees, of a more enor- mous * It is about five fquare miles, or rather, eight miles in length, and from two to four miles in breadth. [ ^ ] mous fize, than I have feen in any other part of Europe, growing amongft rocks and ftones equally remarkable for their dimenfions. I know not of any parallel to the fitblime-be dutiful, and to the wild and romantic grandeur of the fcenery here difplayed. The landfcapes of Sal- vator Rofa appear to have been taken from natural objects, fimilar to thofe which are here feen. It is only forty miles from Paris. In the treafury of the Abbey at St. Denis were formerly preferved the Chefs- men of Charlemagne ; thefe I defcribed in the firft volume of Chefs, publifhed .in 1787 ; they are now either folen or frayed, and will probably never more be heard of. All the horfes (many of which were ftone-horfes) we had occafion to make life of along this road were very gentle, and [ 13 3 and fo were the cattle which were feed- ing on the grafs growing on the borders of the cornfields, (without any inclofure) which they were prevented from enter- ing by a firing tied to their horns, one end of which was fometimes held by a child of five or fix years old. The peo- ple here are very merciful and kind to their beafts. I have feen droves of oxen walking leifurely through the green mar- kets in the cities, fmelling at the vegeta- bles, and driven to the flaughter-houfe by children. There are no inftances here of mad oxen, mad dogs, or run-away horfes- In every one of the towns between Calais and Paris a full-grown tree (gene- rally a poplar) has been planted in the market-place, with many of its boughs and leaves ; thefe laft being withered, it makes but a difmal appearance ; oil the top of this tree or pole is a red wooll- C en [ *4 1 en or cotton night-cap, which is called the Cap of Liberty, with ftreamers about the pole, of red, blue and white rib- bands. I faw feveral ftatues of faints, both within and without the churches (and in Paris likewife) with fimilar caps, and feveral crucifixes with the national cock- ade of ribbands tied to the left arm of the image on the crofs, but not one with the cockade in its proper place ; the reafon of which I know not. I was both furprifed and forty to fee the wooden images, many of them as large as the life, on croffes, painted with the natural colours, to the amount of perhaps twenty between Calais and Paris, Hill fufFered to remain nuifances on the fide of the road. The perpendicular of each crofs being feafoned, by having been expofed many years to the open ' air, [ '5 1 air, might make a couple of excellent pike ftaves ;* but the remainder would, as far as I know, be of no other ufe than for fueL Another abfurdity which has not been attended to as yet is, that moft of the almanacks, even that which is prefixed to Mr. Rabaufs Account of the Revolu- tion, contain againft every day in the year, the name of fome faint or other, male or female ; fome of them martyrs, and others not, others archangels, angels, arch-bilhops, bi£hops, popes, and virgins, to the number of twenty-four, and of thefe,four were martyrs into the bargain; and this at a time when churches are fell- ing by auction and pulling down, when the convents are turned into barracks, when there h neither monk nor nun to be * This was written after I had become fa mi- Ihiized to pikes. [ 1 be feen in the kingdom, nor yet any Akbe% and when no priefl dares appear ip any facerdotal garment, or even with any thing which might mark him as an eccleliaftic. It muft however be ac- knowledged, that the faints have loft all their credit in France, and of courfe fo have the Bienheiireux, or Blejfed. In order to arrive at faint-hood, the candi- date muft firft have died en odeur de Saintete, which, were it not too ludi- crous, might be tranflated fmeliing of holinefs ; he was then created a Bienheu- reuxj and after he had been dead a cen- tury, the pope might canonize him if he pleafed ; after which he, the faint, might work miracles if he could, or let it alone. France formerly contained eighteen arch-biftiopricks, and one hundred and thirteen bifhopricks ; the Arch ones are all abolifhed, and likewife forty-feven of the [ '7 J the others ; there are, however, plenty remaining, no lefs than feventy-three, which includes feven new ones, and one in Corfica. The churches in Paris are not much frequented on the week days, at prefent; I found a few old women on their knees in fome of them, hearing mafs ; and, at the fame time, at the other end of one of thefe churches, commiffaries were fitting and entering the names of volun- teers for the army. The iron rails in the churches which part the choir from the nave, and alfo thofe which encompafs chapels and tombs, are all ordered to be converted into heads for pikes. On Sundays, before the I oth of Ali- gn ft, the churches were ftill reforfed to, G 3 but but by no means crowded ; I know not whether this be the cafe now. All the jours dc fete^ holidays, are very judicioufly abolifhed, and like wife les jours gras^ tt maigres^ (Flefh and mea- gre days). All fhops are allowed to be open, and every trade carried on on Sundays, notwithftanding which, few are open excepting thofe where provisions are fold ; the inhabitants chufing to have one day's relaxation in feven, to take a little frefh air, and to appear well drefled. r WALL [ '9 1 WALL ROUND PARIS. NEW BRIDGE. FIELD OF THE FEDERATION. BASTILLE. THERE is a Wall which encompafies Paris, of about twelve feet high and two feet thick, about nine miles long on the North fide, and five on the South fide ; this was built juft before the Revolu- tion, and was intended to prevent goods from being fmuggled into Paris. On the North fide are thirty-fix barriers, and on the other fide eighteen ; cf thefe fifty-four I faw only ten. They were intended for the officers of the cufloms ; at prefent they are ufed as guard-rooms. Moll of them are mag- nificent buildings, of white ftone, fome like temples, others like chapels ; feveral of thefe are defcribed in the new Paris Guides ; [ 2° ] Guides ; but views of none of them have as yet been engraven.* A bridge of white (lone was juft finifh- cd and opened forthepaflage of carriages; it was begun in 1 787, it is of five arches, the centre arch is ninety-fix feet wide, the two collateral ones eighty-feven feet each, and the other two feventy-eight, each of thefe arches forms part of a cir- cle, whofe centre is confiderably under the level of the water ; it is thrown over the river from the Place de Loins XV. to the Palais Bourbon. The Champ de la Federation, former- ly Champ de Mars, is a field which ferved for the exercifes of the pupils of the Royal military School ; it is a regular parallelogram of nine hundred yards long, * The Rotunda tV Orleans y in this wall, at the back of the gardens of the ci-devant Duke of that name is worthy of obfervation. [ 21 ] long, and three hundred yards broad, exclufive of the ditches by which it is bounded, and of the quadruple rows of trees on each fide ; but if thefe are in- cluded the breadth is doubled. At one extremity is the magnificent building abovementioned, ~f~ and the river runs at the foot of the other. In this field is formed the largeft Circus in the world, being eight hundred yards long and four hundred broad; it is bordered by a flope of forty yards broad, and of which the higheft part is ten feet above the level ground ; the lower part is cut into f In 1788 die fchool was fuppreffed, the fcho- larswere placed in the army, or in country colleges, and the building is intended, when the neceffary alterations are completed, to be one of the four hofpitals which are to replace that of the Hotel- Dieu. This hofpital is in fuch a bad fituation, being in the midft of Paris, that a quarter of the patients die. It contains only two thoufand beds 5 each of the four new hofpitals is to con- tain twelve hundred beds. [ ** ] into thirty rows, gradually elevated above each other, and on thcfe rows or ridges a hundred and fixty thoufand perfons may fit commodioufly; the upper part may contain about a hundred and fifty thoufand perfons Handing, of which every one may fee equally well what is doing in the Circus. The National con- federation was lirft held here, 14th July, 1790, and at that time a wooden bridge was thrown on boats over the river for convenience. Of the Bajlille nothing remains but the foundations; it was demolifhed and levelled with th^ ground in about eleven ixiohtlis ; the expenfes amounted to about twenty thoufand pounds fterling* The materials were Ibid for half that fum, and the nation paid the remainder. And on the 14th of July, 1790, the anniverfary of the day of its having been taken, a long mail was ere&ed in the [ *3 J the middle of the place where it flood, crowned with flowers and ribbands, and bearing this fimple and expreflive in- fcription; Id on Danfe. Here is danc- ing. COINS [ u i COINS AND TOKENS. In the Hotel de la Monnoye (the Mint) I procured fome new coins. The filver crown piece of fix livres has on one fide the king's head in profile, round which is Louis XVL Roi des Francois, 1792; over this date is a fmall lion paffant, being a Mint mark. The reverfe, is a human figure with an enormous pair of wings,* holding a book in its left hand, which book refts on an altar, and with its other is reprefented as if writ- ing in it ; the word Conjlitutlon is al- ready feen there. The figure is naked, except a flight drapery on the left arm ; behind the figure is a bundle of ftaves, like * There is to be a new coinage without the king's profile, and it is to be hoped thefe wings, or rather the whole figure, will be left out. [ *5 ] like the Roman Fafces, furmounted by the cap of liberty, and behind the altar is a cock {landing on one leg ; the in- fcription is Rcgne de la Lot. V An 4 de la Liberie. Befides this, there are two other Mint marks, one a fmall lyre, and the other the letter A ; at the foot of the altar is Dupre^ the name of the perfon who engraved the die ; and on the edge is La Nation , La Loi, ct le Rci y in Relievo. There are no new half crowns* The dies of the new thirty and fifteen fol pieces are juft like that of the crown, except that their value is ftamped on them 30 Sols^ 15 Sols, and that there is no infcription on the edge. There are two other coins, made of / ; a fort of bell-metal ; one of two Sols, with the king's profile ; infcription and date like thofe on the filver coin^ and D on [ *<5 ] on the' reverfe the Fafces and cap, between two oak branches, and the in- icription, La Nation, La Lot, Le RoL I J An 4 de la Liberie. 2 S. The other of half this fize, and with the fame im- preffions, except that its value is fpeci- fled thus, 12 D. or Deniers, equal to one SoL I have not feen any new Louis. No paper money or affignats is known in the Mint ; I bought fome coins here, and paid for them in guineas, which are current for twenty-five livres. There are twelve or fourteen mills, which were all at work in coining crown pieces, and likewife feveral hammering machines, one of which was coining 2 Sols pieces. Befides the national coins, feveral tradefmen have been permitted to fabri- cate filver and copper medals or tokens, for public convenience ; the moft beau- tiful [ *T ] tiful of which are thofe of M. Monneroru The largefi is of almoft pure copper, exa&iy of the fize and thicknefs of the crown piece ; in an oval is reprefented a female figure with a helmet on, fitting on an elevated place, on which is Dupre f. (or fecit) holding a book, infcribed Conjlitution des Francois ; at her iide is a fhield with the arms of France, and at her feet an altar, on one fide of which is the profile of the king; feveral foldiers are reprefented extending their right arms, as if taking the oath ; at top h Pa&e Federatif; at bottom 14 Juilkt^ 1 790 ; round the oval vtvre llbres on maurir, which is repeated in one of the banners carried by a foldier. On the reverie in a circle, is Medal He de conn- ance de clnq-fols rcmbonrfable en afftgnats ds 5o L - et au dejfus. 1J An IV. de la Liberie ; round this is Monneron Freres Negocians a Paris , 1792; and on the edge [ 28 ] edge is cut Departernens de Paris , Rhone ct Loire. Da Gard. I have another of thefe pieces, not quite fo large nor fo well executed ; one of the fides is fimilar to that already de~ fcribed ; on the other is MedaiUe qui Je vend 5 Sols a Paris ebez Monneron pa- tente. I] An IV. de la Liberie. Round this is, Revolution Fran caife, 1792; and on the edge, Bon pour les 83 Depart e^ mens. I am told this was made at Bir* mmgham. The other token of the fame merchant is rather larger and thicker than our halfpenny. On one fide is a woman fitting, with a ftaff in her right hand with the cap of liberty ; her left arm leans on a Iquare tablet, on which are the words, Droits de F Homme. Artie. V.* the * This article is, " The law has the right of prohibiting only thofe actions which are hurtful to fociety." [ *9 ] the fun fhines juft over her head, and behind her is a cock perched on half a fluted column ; round the figure, Libert e fous la Loi, and underneath, VAn III. de la Liberie. On the re- verfe, Medaille de conjianee de deux fols a ech anger contre des affignats de $Q La et au dejfus. 1791. Round this the merchant's name, as in the firfi ; and on the edge, Bon pour Bord. Marfeih Lyon. Rouen. Nant. et Strafo. I have feen a filver token almoft as big as a fhilling. On one fide is repre- fented a woman fitting, leaning with her left arm on a large open book, at her right is a cock perched on half a fluted column j and the infcription round thefe figures is, Le Fevre, Le Sage et Comp ie - n% u a Paris. On the reverfe is B. P. (bon pour) 20 Sols a ech anger en ajjignats de 5Q 1 " D 3 anjd [ 3° ] and round this, et au dcjfus fan 4 me de la Liberie^ 1792. f In this Hotel is the cabinet of the royal fchool of mineralogy, which Mr. Le Sage has been four and twenty years in forming and analyzing; it is contained in a magnificent building, with a dome and gallery ^Imoft entirely of marble. f This and the former echanger 9 t&c. and rem* favrJhBIe s 5SV. appear to be fuperfluous. THEATRES* [ '3' J THEATRES. AT this time there were ten regular theatres open every evening. The firft and moll ancient of which is the Opera, or Royal Academy of Mufic. The old houfe which was in the Palais Royal, was burnt in 1781, and the prefent houfe, near St. Martin's Gate, was built in feventy-five days. The number of performers, vocal and inftrumental, dan- cers, &c. employed in this theatre is about four hundred and thirty. The price of admifhon to the firft boxes is feven iivres ten fous, about fix fhillings and five pence, (or three fhillings and nine pence as the exchange then was.) 2. The French playhoufe is at prefent called Theatre de la Nation. In the vef- tibule [ 3* ] tibule or porch is a marble ftatue of Voltaire , fitting in an arm chair; it is near the Luxembourg. 3. The Italian theatre behind the Boulevart Richelieu. Notwithftanding the name, nothing but French pieces, and French mufic, are performed here. 4. Theatre de Monfieur. Rue Fey- deatu Comedies and operas are per- formed here, three times a week in the Italian, and the other days in the French language ; for which purpofe two fets of players are engaged at this houfe. 5 Theatre Fran^ais. Rue de Riche- lieu. At thefe four theatres the price of admiffion into the boxes was a crown. 6. Theatre de la Rue de Louvois. 7. Theatre [ 33 J 7. Theatre Franqais. Rue de Bondy. 8. Theatre de la Demoifelle Montan- lier, au Palais Royal. The box price of thefe three laft was half a crown, 9. Theatre du Marais, quartier St. Antoine. 10. Theatre de Moliere. Rue St. Martin. To thefe muft be added about five and twenty more ; the .bed of which is the Theatre de Pambigu comique, on the North Boukvarts j* the box price was half * Thefe Boulevarts were made in 1536, and planted with four rows of trees in 16685 thefe beautiful walks are too well known to be de- fcribed here ; they are 2400 Toifes (4800 yards, cr almoft three miles) long. The South Boule- varts are. planted in the fame manners were fi> nifhed in 1761, and are 3683 Toifes> or fathom (above four miles) in length* [ 34 ] half a crown. The others were rope dancers, and fuch kind of fpe&acles as Sadler s Wells , &c. and the prices from two fhillings down to fixpence. The French themielves, laughing at the great increafe of their theatres, faid, " We fhall fhortly have a public fpe£tacle per ftreet, an ador per houfe, a mufician per cellar, and an author pdr garret. PANTHEON. [ 35 J PANTHEON. JACOBINS. QUAI VOLTAIRE. RUE ROUSSEAU. COCKADES. THE new church of Salute Genevieve was begun in 1 757; b ut the building was difcontinued daring the laftwar ; in 1 784 it was refunded, and is at prefent almoft iinifhed. The whole length of the front is thus inferibed in very large gilt capi- tals : Aux grands hommes : la Fatrie reeonnoijfante. To great men : their grateful country. And over the en- trance : Pantheon Francois. V An III de la Liberie. As to the fize of Paris, I faw two very large plans of that city and of London, on the fame feale, on which it was faid, that Paris covered 5,280,000 fquare Toifes y and London only 3,900,000, A Toifc [ 36 ] A Toife is two yards ; and from the plan it appeared to be near the truth. The new buildings which furround the garden of the Palais Royal form a parallelogram, that for beauty is not to be matched in Europe. They conlilt of fhops, coffee-homes, mufic-rooms, four of which are in cellars, taverns, gaming-houfes, &c. and the whole fquare is almoft always full of people. The fquare is 234 yards in length, and 1 00 in breadth ; the portico which fur- rounds it confifts of 180 arches. The celebrated Jacobins are a club, confiding at prefent of about 1 300 mem- bers, and fo called, becaufe the place of meeting is in the hall which was for- merly the library of the convent of that name, in the Rue St. Honor e, about 300 yards diftant from the National AfTem- bly. The proper name of the club is, Society [ 37 ] .Society of the Friends of the C'onjlitutiorl. There are three or four other focieties of lefs note. The %utii) which was formerly called des Tbeatins, is at prefent named Quai Voltaire, in honor of that philofopher, who died there in the houfe of the Mar- quis de Villette, in 1778. The ftreet which was formerly called Platriere, and in which the general poft- office is fituated, is called Rue yean yaques RouJJeau, in honour of that wri- ter, who refided fome time in this ftreet. I found him here in 1776, and he co- pied fome mufic for me : he had no other books at that time than an Englifti Robin fon Crnfoe and an Italian Tajpfs Jerufalem. He died ift July, 1778, very foon after Voltaire, at the country feat of le Marquis de Girardin, about E ten' E 33 ] ten leagues from Paris ; and is buried there, in a fmall ifland. And the ftreet which was formerly called Chauffc d" Antin is now named Rue de Mirabeau^ in honour of the late patriot of that name. The church des Innoce?i$ was pulled clown in 1786, and the vaft cimetiere (burying ground) was filled up. Every night, during feveral months, carts were employed in carrying the bones found there, to other grounds out of Paris : it is now a market for vegetables. Very near this place was a fountain, which is mentioned in letters patent fo long ago as 1273. It was rebuilt with ex- traordinary magnificence in 1550, re- paired in 1708, and at lafl, in 1788, carefully removed to the center of the jnarket, where it now {lands. The [ 39 J The new H^uai de Gefvres was eon-- ilrudedin 1787, and.- ail the (hops which formed a long narrow alley for foot pal- ienger.s only,,, were deitreyecL At this time no perfon was permitted to walk in any other part of the Tuileriet- gardens than on the terrace of the Feu- UlpnS) w hich is parallel to the Rue St^ Honor e y under the windows of the N&-- tlottal Ajfernbly : the only fence to the'" other part of the garden was a blue rib- band extended between two chairs Hitherto cockades of fiik had beau worn, the arlflocrats wore fuch as were of a paler blue and reel, than thofe worn by the democrats, and the former were even diftinguiffied by their carriages, on which a cloud was painted upon the arms, which entirely obliterated them^ (of thefe I faw above thirty in the even- ing promenade, in the Bob de Boulogne:) but [ 40 ] but on the 30th of July, every perfon was compelled by the people to wear a linen cockade, without any diflin&ion in the red and blue colours, EXECUTION EXECUTION OF TWO CRIMINALS, WITH A BEHEADING MACHINE. ON the 4th of Auguft a criminal was beheaded, in the Place de Greve. I did not fee the execution, becaufe, as the hour is never fpecified, I might have waited many hours in a crowd, from. which there is no extricating one's fel£ I was there immediately after, and faw the machine, which was juft going to be taken away* I went into a coffee- houfe and made a drawing, which is here engraven. It is called la Guillotine , from the name of the perfon who firft brought it into ufe in Paris : that at Life is called h Loulfon^ for a fimilar reafon. - In Engli'fli it is termed a maiden** E 3 I have * Mr. Pennant, in the fecond volume of his r vjr in Scotland, has given a long account of fuch [ 4* ] I have feen the following feven en- gravings of fuch an inftrument. The moll fuch a machine,, from which the following par- ticulars are taken. (< It was confined to the li- mits of the breft of Hard wick* or the eighteen towns and hamlets within its precinfts. The execution was generally at Halifax : Twenty-five criminals fuffered during the reign of Queen Elizabeth : the records before that time were loft. Twelve more were executed between 1623 anc ^ 1650, after which it is fuppoied ilie privilege was no more exerted. This machine is now deftroyed ; but there is one of the fame kind, in a room under the Parliament houfe, at Edin- burgh, where it was introduced by the Regent Morton, who took a model of it as he paifed through Halifax, and at length fuffered by it him- felf. It is in form of a painters eafel, afnd about ten feet high at four feet from the bottom is a crofs-bar, on which the felon laid his head, which was kept down by another placed above. In the inner edges of the frame are grooves ; in theie is placed a fharp axe, with a vaft weight of lead, fupported at the fummit by a peg : to that peg is fallencd a cord, which the executioner cutting, tiie axe falls, and beheads the criminal. If he was [ 43 1 moft ancient is engraven on wood, merely outlines, and very badly drawn; it is in Petrns dc Natalibus Catalogus $an£lorw?i) -1510. There was a German tranflation of fome of Petrarch's Works, pubiiihed in 1520; this contains an engraving in wood, reprefentirig an execution, with a great number of figures, correctly drawn. Aldegrever, in 1553, pubiiihed ano-= ther print on this iubject. The fourth is in Achlllis Bocchn ^u^/Iwues Symbolics, l'$SQ* There is one in Cats' 9 s Dutch Emblems , 1650. , And was condemned for ftealing a horfeor a cow, the ftring was tied to the beaft, which pulled out the peg and became the executioner. [ 44 ] And the two laft are in Golfrieds's Hifto- rical Chronicles, in German, folio, 1 674. Thefe five laft are engraven on copper. In all thefe reprefentations the axe is either ftraight or femicircular, but al- ways horizontal. The floping pofition of the French axe appears to be the beft calculated for celerity. Machines of this kind are at prefent made ufe of for executions throughout all France, and criminals are put ta death in no other manner. The following is the account of an execution, which I had from an eye- witnefs. The crowd began to aflemble at ten in the morning, and waited, expofed to the intenie heat of the fun in the middle of July, till four in the afternoon , [ 45 ] when the criminals, a Marquis and a Prieft, were brought, in two coaches \ they were condemned for having forged affignats. The Marquis afcended the fcaffold firft ; he was as pale as if he had alrea- dy been dead, and he endeavoured to hide his face, by pulling his hair over it; there were two executioners, dreffed m black, on the fcaffold, one of whom immediately tied a plank of about 1 8 inches broad, and an inch thick, to the body of the Marquis, as he ftood up* right, fattening it about the arms, the belly, and the legs ; this plank was about four feet long, and came almoft up to his chin ; a prieft who attended, then applied a crucifix to his mouth, and the two executioners directly laid him on his belly on the bench, lifted up the ' upper part of the board which was to receive his neck, adjufted his head [ 46 ] head properly, then fhut the board and pulled the firing which is faftened to the peg at the top of the machine, which lifted up a latch, and down came the axe ; the head was off in a moment, and fell into a bafket which was ready to receive it, the executioner took it out and held it up by the hair to fhow the populace, and then put it into another bafket along with the body : very little blood had iffued as yet. The Prieft was now taken out of the coach, from which he might have km his companion fuffer ; the bloody axe was hoifted up, and he underwent the fame operation exa&ly. Each of thefe exe- cutions lafted about a minute in all, from the moment of the criminal's afcending the fcaffold to that of the body's being taken away. It was now feen that the body of the Marquis made fuch a violent expiration that the belly raifed the lid of [ 47 J of the bafket it was in, and the blood ruihed out of the great arteries in tor- rents. The windows of the Place de Greve were, as ufual on fuch occanons, filled with ladies.* Many perfons were per- forming on violins, and trumpets, in order to pafs the time away, and to re- lieve the tedioufnefs of expectation. I have on feveral other days feen fe- lons fitting on ftools on this fcaffold, with their hands tied, and their arms and bodies fattened to a ftake by a girth> bare- * Mrs. Robinfon tells me, that when {he was at Paris, a few years ago, her valet de place, came -early one morning, informing her there would be a grand fpeclacle y and wanted to know if he thould hire a place for her. This fuperb fpe&a* •cle was no other than the execution of two mur- derers, who were to be broken alive on the wheel, in the Place de Greve, on that day. She however fays, that (he declined going. [ 48 ] bareheaded, with an infcription over their heads, fpecifying their crimes and punifhment; they are generally thus ex- pofed during five or fix hours, and then fent to prifon, or to the gallies accord- ing to the fentence. VERSAILLES^ [ 49 J VERSAILLES. BOTANY. SOUNDING MERIDIANS. I went once to Verfailles ; there is hardly any thing in the palace but the bare walls, a very few of the looking- glaffes, tapeftry, and large pictures re- maining, as it has now been near two years uninhabited. I croffed the great canal on foot ; there was not a drop of water in it. In the Menagerie I faw the Rhinoce- ros, which has been 2 3 years there ; there is likewife a lion, with a little dog in the fame den as his companion, and a zebra. The collection of orange trees cannot be matched in any country where thefe F trees [ 5o ] trees do not grow naturally; the number is about fix hundred, the largeft trunk Is about fifteen inches in diameter, and the age of the moft ancient of thefe trees exceeds three centuries. The Jar din Potager, or kitchen gar- den, is of fifty acres, divided into about five or fix and twenty fmall gardens, of one, two, or three acres, walled round, both for fiielter to the plants, and for training fruit trees againft. One of thefe gardens, of two acres, was, entirely al- lotted to the culture of melons, and thefe were all of the warty rock canta- lupe kind, and were growing under hand glafles, in the manner of our late cucumbers for pickling. The feafon had been fo unfavourable for w-all-fruit, that (as the gardener told me) all thefe gardens had yielded lefs than a dozen peaches and nedlarines. The [ 5i "J The fruit was fent regularly to the Royal Family in Paris. There is a botanical garden at the Petit Trianon, in the park of Verfailles, but the perfon who fhows it was out of the way, fo that I did not fee it. I pafTed feveral mornings in the Bota- nical National Garden, ( ci-devant yar- din du Roi.J That part of the garden which contains the botanical collection is feparated from the other part, which is open to the public at large, by iron palifades. The names of the plants are painted on fquare plates of tin, flack ifi the ground on the fide of each plant, ) faw a Strelitzia, which was there called Ravenala, (probably from forne modern botanift's name) Mr. Thouin, who fuper- intends this garden, faid to me, " We will not have any ariftocratic plants, neither will we call the new Planet by any [ s* ] any other name than that of its difeo- verer, Eerfchel" I negle&ed to afic him why the plant might not retain its origi- nal and proper name of Heliconia Bihai? papers. Many defcriptions and figures of this plant are to be found in old books, and the dried plants are frequently to be met with. Old Gerard very juflly fays, ** The coiner fpoiled the name in the mint, for of all plants that have been written of, there is not any more unlike unto the rofe." The annexed figure reprefents a fingle plant ; it had been tranfplanted into a deep pot, which had been filled with earth, fo as to make it appear like two plants. The ftalks are Ihrubby, the leaves are fleihy, and of a glaucous i / i' m i ■ [ 53 ] glaucous or fea-green colour. The corolla confifts of four very fmall white petals* Its fcientific defcription may be found in Linnaus*. One of the filicles is drawn magnified. Mr. Thouin pointed out to me a new and very beautiful fpecies of Zinnia^ of which the flower is twice the fize of that of the common fort, and of a deep pur- ple colour : a new vcrbafcum^ from the Levant ; it was about four feet high^ the leaves were almoft as woolly as thofe of the Stachys lanata^ and terminated in a point like a fpur ; it had not yet flow- ered. And a new folanam^ with fpines the colour of gold. He recommended the flower of the fpilanthus Irafiliana, which our nurfery- men call Verbejina acmella as an excellent dentifrice. F 3 . i alfo * Genera plant arum y 798. [ 54 ] I alfo found here the amethyjlea caru- lea : this annual has been loft in Eng- land above twenty years.* The datura fajluofo^ the French call Trompette du jugement a trois jlenrs Vune dans T autre ; I have myfelf raifed thefe with triple flowers, both purple and white, though fome of our nurferymen pretended the flowers were never more than double, The anthemts arabica, a very fmgular and pretty annual. A 'zin- nia hybrida, winch laft has not yet been cultivated in England. Twenty-two forts of medic ago polymorph a, (f nails and hedgehogs J of thefe I had feen only four in England. Here was a final! Angle mofs-rofe plant, in a pot, which is the only one I ever * The feeds which' are fold in the London (hops, for thofe of this plant, are thofe of the hyffbpus Iraftmtus* [ 55 ] I ever faw in France. The air is too hot for thofe rofes, and for the fame reafon none of the American plants, fuch as the magnolia tulip tree kalmia^ &c. thrive in France, though kept in pots in the fhade and well watered ; the heat of the atmofphere dries the trunk of thefe trees. But there are many other plants, to the growth of which the cli- mate is much more favourable than it is in England. In the open part of this garden are a great number of bignonia- catalpa trees, which were then in flower, refembling horfe-chefnut flowers at a diftance, but much larger and more beautiful ; and many nerhim oleander trees, in wooden chefts ; feveral of thefe trees are about eight feet high and the trunk a foot in diameter ; they were then full of flowers of all the forts, fingle and double, red and white : thefe are placed in the green-houfe in the winter. On [ 56 ] On a mount in this garden is a meri- dian fonnant (founding meridian) this is an iron mortar which holds four pounds of gunpowder, it is loaded every morn- ing, and exactly at noon the fun dis- charges the piece by means of a burning glafs, fo placed that the focus at that moment fires the powder in che touch- hole. The firft meridian that was made of this kind is in the garden of the Palais Royal^ at the top of one of the houfes : I could not fee it, but it is thus defcribed iiKthe Paris Guide : " The touch-hole of the cannon is two inches long and half a line (the twentieth part of an inch) broad, this length is placed in the direc- tion of the meridian line. Two tranfoms or crofsjlaves placed vertically on a hori- zontal plane, fupport a lens or burning glafs, which, by their means, is fixed according to the fun's height monthly, fo as to caufe the focus to be exa&ly over the touch-hole at noon. It is faid to have [ 57 1 have been invented by Rouffeau." Small meridians of this fort are fold in the (hops ; thefe are dials of about a foot fquare, engraven on marble, with a lit- tle brafs cannon and &kns. The market for plants and flowers in pots, and for nofegays, is kept on the £>uai de la Megijferie^ twice a week, very early in the morning ; the follow- ing were the mod abundant : Nerium^ double flowering pomegranate, vinca rofea, (Madagafcar periwinkle) prickly lantana^ peruvian heliotr opium (turnfole) tuberofes, with very large and numer- ous fingle and double flowers, and very great quantities of common fweet bafil, which is much ufed in cookery, I vifited the apothecaries garden, and alfo two or three nurfery gardens in that neighbourhood, but found nothing re- markable in them. There [ 5« ] There are many gardens in the envi- rons of Paris which are worthy of notice, but I was prevented from feeing them in confequence of the difturbances here- after mentioned. In the books which defcribed thefeplaces, 1 find the village of Montr cuii-Jous-le-Bois particularly men- tioned on account of its fertility. In the Tableau de Paris it is faid, " Three acres of ground produce to the proprietor twenty thoufand livres annually, (near 800 guineas.) The rent of an acre is fix hundred livres, and the king's tax fixty (together about fix and twenty guineas,) The peaches which are pro- duced here are the fineft in the world, and are fometimes fold for a crown a piece. When a prince has given a fplen- did entertainment, three hundred Louis d'ors worth of thefe fruits have been eaten." It is fituated on a hill, juft above Vincennes, about three miles from the fauxbourg SmM Antolne % and is like- [ 59 1 wife celebrated for its grapes, ftrawber- ries, all forts of wall fruit, peafe, and every kind of efculent vegetables. In the garden called Mouceaux, which belongs to the ci-devant Duke of Orleans ; at the extremity of the fauxbourg du Roide are, it is laid, magnificent hot-houfes, of which I have no recollection, though I was in the garden in 1776. There is a defcription of thefe gardens in print, with fixteen copperplates. In the Lux- embourg gardens only common annuals were growing, fuch as marigolds, fun- flowers, &c. probably felf fown ; nei- ther were there in the Tuileries gardens, which I afterwards faw, any remarkable plants. I bought very large peaches in the markets at 30 fous each, the ordinary ones were at 10 fob. The melons, (which are brought to market in wag- gons, piled up like turnips in England) were [ 60 ] were all of the netted fort, and of fo little flavor, that they would not be worth cul- tivating, were it not for the fake of cool- ing the mouth in hot weather ; they were fold at 15 or 20 fous each. Straw- berries were ftill plentiful (fecond week in Auguft.) Gerneaux, which are the kernel of green walnuts, were juft com- ing into feafon. I had now no opportunity of acquir- ing any more knowledge of the plants in France, and fhall only add, that I paffed the winter of 1783 and 1784, at Marjcille and at Hieres ; and that be- fides oranges, lemons, cedras,* pifta- chios, pomegranates, and a few date palm trees, * Thefe trees are planted as clofe together as poffible, hardly eight feet afunder, and no room is left for any walks, fo that thefe gardens are, properly fpeakmg i orange orchards. The oranges were then fold at the rate of ten for a penny Englifli* t « 3 If ees, I Found feveral fpecies oigtraniuin^ myrtles, and caSlus opuntia^ (Indian fig] growing in the foil, and likewife the mirnofa farnefiana^ fweet fcented fponge tree, or fragrant acacia, the flowers of which are there called fienrs de cajfier ; thefe flowers, together with thofe of the jafmine, and thofe which fall from the orange and lemon trees, are fold to the perfumers of Provence and Lan* guedoc. Among the fmail plants, the arum arifarum^ (friar's cowl) and the rufcus aculeatus (butcher's broom) were the moft confpicuous ; this latter is a pretty ever-green fhrub, and the berries were there as large as thofe of a common Jolaniimpfeudo capjicum, (Pliny's amomiim^ or winter cherry) and of a bright fcarlet colour, ifluing from the middle of the under furface of the leaves ; I never faw any of thefe berries any where elfe. G Park'mfon i [ 62 ] Parkinfon, in his Theater of Plants y 1 640, fays, after defcribing three or four fpecies of this genus, " They fcarfe beare flower, much lefle fruite, in our land." Perhaps the berries might ripen in our hot- houfes. Many arbutus> or ftrawberry-trees, grow here, but they are not equal iij fize and beauty to many which I faw both in Portugal and in Ireland. In 1784, M. y. J. de St. Germain , a nurferyman in the Fauxbourg St. Antolne^ publifhed a book in 8vo of 400 pages, entitled Manuel des Vegetaux^ or catalogue in Latin and French, of all the known plants, trees, and fhrubs, in the world, arranged according to the fyftem of Linnaus ; thole plants which grow near Paris are particularly fpecified, and a very copious French index is added to the Latin one. The author [ 63 ] author died a few years ago ; the plants were fold, and the nurfery ground is at prefent built upon. f)OGS [ «4 ] BOGS AND CATS. TWO-HEADED BOY. LION Dogs and Cats are common in Paris* The lion-dog greatly refembles a li- on in miniature ; the hair of the fore part of its body is long, and curled, and the hinder part fhort; the nofe is fhort, and the tail is long and tufted at the extremity ; the fmalleft are little larger than guinea-pigs, thefe are natives of Malta, and are the moft valuable ; thofe which are produced in France are con- iiderably larger, and the breed degene- i-ates very foon. Their general colour is white; they are frequently called Lexi- cons ^ which word is derived, not from a dictionary, but from a French com- pound [ 65 ] pound word of nearly the fame found,, defcriptive of one of their properties. The lion-cat comes originally from Arigora^ in Syria. It is much larger than the common cat ; its hair is very long, efpecially about the neck, where it forms a fine ruff, of a filvery white- nefs and filky texture, that on the tail is three or four inches long ; thefe cats frequently fpread their tails on their backs, as fquirrels do. The colour is generally white, but fometimes light brown ; they do not catch mice. This beautiful fpecies does not degenerate fpeedily, and it appears to thrive better in Paris than in any other part of Eu- rope. The figures of both thefe animals are in Buff on s Natural Hi/lory. About the Palais Royal perfons are frequently found who offer for fale white mice in cages ; thefe are pretty little G 3 animals, [66 ] animals, their fur is fnow white, and their eyes are red and fparkling. Other perfons carried for fale canary-birds, linnets, and two or three other forts of fmall birds, perched on their fingers j thefe birds had been rendered fo tame that they did not attempt to fly away. But the greateft curiofity in Natural Hiftory, which I faw there, was a male child with two heads and four arms ; it was then three months old, the two faces were perfectly alike, the nofes aquiline, the eyes blue, and the countenances pleaimg; the two bodies were joined together at the cheft, and the remainder was juft like that of a common male child ; one navel, one belly, one fienis r one anus r and two legs. The two bodies were face to face, fo that they could embrace and kifs each other-' in their natural pofition. they formed an angle of 65 degrees, like the letter Y. I remained above an [ 67 ] an hour with this child, it's mother and the nurfe, and faw it fuck at both breads at the fame time* It was tolerably ftrong, the fkin was very foft and almoft tranfparent, the arms and legs were very lean, and the latter were croffed, and appeared incapable of being extended voluntarily ; fo that if the child (hould live two or three years, which I do not think probable, it is not likely it will ever be able to walk. One head would laugh while the other cried, one head would fleep whilft the other was awake ; the infpiration and expiration of the breath, in each, was alternate, that is to fay, one infpired while the other ex- pired its breath. There was nothing remarkable in the mother (a peafant's wife) except her obffinacy in refufmg to difencumber thefe two poor heads from a couple of thick quilted blue fat- tin caps with which they had drefled them, and which I endeavoured to convince [ 68 ] convince both her and the nurfe would heat the heads, fo as to be the means of fhortening the child's life, and con- fequently of curtailing the profits arifmg from this unique exhibition, To this defcnption an Englilh phy~ fician, who likewife faw it, adds, " It muft have had two brains, as " motion and fenfation were equal, " and apparently perfect, in each head " and cheft, and in all the four u arms. It had two hearts and tw r o " fets of lungs ; it had alfo two paf~ " fages into the ftomach, but, as was " fuppofed, only one fet of abdominal " vifcera, as the belly was not larger " than that of a common child of that " age ufually is. The hearts and arte- 14 ries beat more ftrongly than was con- 4^0. 1665 ; and in the Medical Mlfcellanles^ which were printed in Latin at Lepzig, in feveral quarto vo- lumes, in 1673. that it was a pity all their books of di- vinity, and almoft all thofe of law and phyfic, were not added to the pile, but he comforted himfelf with reflecting that fa viendra* All the coats of arms which formerly decorated the gates of Hotels are taken away, and even feals are at prefent en- graven with cyphers only. The Chevaliers de St. Louis ftill con- tinue to wear the crofs, or the ribband, at the button-hole ; all other orders of knighthood are abolilhed. No liveries are worn by fervants, that badge of fla- very is likewife abolifhed ; and alfo all corporation companies, as well as every other monopolizing fociety, and there are no longer any Royal tobacco not fait fhops,, I went [ 73 1 I went once to the Cafe de la Re-* gence* with the intention of playing a game at chefs, but I found the chefs- men fo very little different in colour, that I could not diftinguifh them fuffici- ently to be able to play. It feems it is the fafhion for chefs-men at prefent to be made of box-wood, and all nearly of the fame colour. I then went to ano- ther coffee-houfe frequented by chefs- players, and here the matter was worfe ; they had, in addition to the above-men- tioned fafhion, fdbflituted the cavalier ^ or knight, for the fou> or bijhop, and the bi/JjGp for the knight^ fo that I left them to fight their own battles. Books of all forts are printed without any approbation or privilege. Many are H expofed * Roufleau ufed to play at chefs here almoft and the immediate fcene of battle were covered with bodies, dead, dying, and drunk : many wounded and drunk died in the night ; the ftreets were filled with carts, carrying away the dead, with litters taking the wounded to hofpitals ; with women and children crying for the lofs of their relations, with men, women, and children walking among and ftriding over the dead bodies, in filence, and with apparent unconcern with troops of the fans-culottes running about, covered with 'blood, and carry- ing* * The whole of the foregoing account is taken from verbal information, and from all the French papers that could be procured. Although I was not an eye-witnefs, I was however an ear-witnels of the engagement, being only half a mile diftant from it. [ io 5 1 ing, at the end of their bayonets, rags of the clothes which they had torn from the bodies of the dead Swifs, who were left ftark naked in the gardens* One of thefe fans-culottes was bragg- ing that he had killed eight Swifs with his own hand. Another was obferved lying wounded, all over blood, afleep or drunk, with a gun, phlols, a fabre,. and a hatchet by him. The courage and ferocity of the wo- men was this day very confpicuous ; the firft perfon that entered the Tuikrks r after the firing ceafed, was a woman, named Teroigne, fhe had been very adtive in the riots at Bruffels, a few years ago ; fhe afterwards was in prifon a twelvemonth at Vienna, and when fhe w^as releafed, after the death of the Em- peror, went to Geneva, which city fhe was foon obliged to leave; fhe then came to [ io6 ] to Paris, and headed the Marfeillois; fhe began by cleaving the head of a Swifs, who folicited her protection, and who was inftantaneoufly cut in pieces by her followers* She is agreeable in her per- fon, which is final!, and is about twenty- eight years of age. Many men, and alfo many women, as well of the order of Poiffardes (which are a clafs almoft of the fame fpecies and rank with our fifhwomen, and who are ealily diftinguifhed by their red cotton bibs and aprons) as others, ran about the gardens, ripping open the bel- lies, and dafhing out the brains of feveral of the naked dead Swifs,* At * At the taking of the Baftilie, on the day of which only eighty-three perfons were killed on the fpot, though fifteen died afterwards of their wounds, thefe Poiffardes ^were likewife foremoft in bravery and in cruelty, fa much, that the Parifians [ I0 7 1 At fix in the evening I faw a troop of national guards and fans-culottes kill a Swifs who was running away, by cleaving his fkull with a dozen fabres at once, on the Pont-royal^ and then caft him into the river, in lefs time than it takes to read this, and afterwards walk quietly on. The fhops were fhut all this day, and alfo the theatres ; no coaches were about the ftreets, at leaft not near the place of carnage ; the houfes were lighted up, and patroles paraded the ftreets all night, Not a fmgle houfe was pillaged. The barracks were ftill in flames, as well as the houfes of the Swifs porters at the end of the gardens ; thefe laft gave light Parifians themfelves ran away from them as foon as they faw them at a diftance. They are armed ? feme with fabres and others with pikes* [ io8 ] light to five or fix waggons which were employed all night in carrying away the dead carcafes. STATUES [ 1o 9 ] STATUES OF KINGS PULLED DOWN* NEW NAMES. THE next day, Saturday the nth, about an hundred Swifs, who had not been in the palace, placed themfelves under the protection of the National Aflembly. They were fent to the Palais Bourbon^ efcorted by the Marfeillois, with Mr. Petion at their head, in order to be tried by a court-martial. The people were now employed, Tome in hanging thieves, others with Mademoifelle Teroigne on horfeback at their head, in pulling down the ftatues of the French kings. L The I 110 ] The firft was the equeftrian one in bronze of JLewis XV. in the fquare of the fame name, at the end of the Tui- lerles gardens ; this was the work of Bouchardvn^ and was erected in 1 763* At the corners of the pedeftal were the ftatues, alfo in bronze, of ftrength, peace, prudence, andjuftice, by Pigallc. Many fmiths were employed in filing the iron bars within the horfe's legs and feet, which faftened it to the mar- ble pedeftal, and the fans-culottes pulled it down by ropes, and broke it to pieces; as likewife the four ftatues abovemen- tioned, the pedeftal, and the new mag- nificent baluftrade of white marble which furrounded it. The next was the equeftrian ftatue of J^ewis XIV. in the Place Vendome^ caft in bronze, in a fingle piece, by Keller, from the model of Girardon, twenty men might with eafe have fat round a table [ "I I taSle in the belly of the horie ; it flood- on a pedeftal of white marble of thirty* feet in height, twenty-four in length, and thirteen in breadth. This ftatue crufhed a man to pieces by falling on him, which mail b<^ attributed to the inexperience of the pulTers-dow?i« The third was a pedeftrian ftatue of Lewis XIV. in the Place ViEloire, of lead, gilt, on a pedeftal of white marble; a winged figure, reprefenting vi&orj* with one hand placed a crown of laurels on his head, and in the other held a bundle of palm and' olive branches,, The king was reprefented treading on Qer- bcrus^ and the whole group was a fingle caft. There were formerly four bronze- naves at the corners of the pedeftal, each of twelve feet high ; thefe were removed in 1790. The whole monu- ment was thirty-nve feet high, and was ^rec3:ed in 1689, at the expeiice of the [ 112 ] Duke de la Feuillade, who likewife left his duchy to his heirs, on condition that they fhould caufe the whole group to be new gilt every twenty-five years ; and who was buried under the pedeftaL On Sunday the*]: 2th r at about noon, the equeftrian ftatue, in bronze, of Henry IV. which was on the Pont-nenf r was pulled down ; this was ere£led in 1635, anc * was foft °f tiie kind in Paris. The horfe woe begun at Florence, by Giovanni Bologna, a pup'l of Mic- hael Angela, finifhed by Pietro Tacca y and lent as a prefent to Mary of Medicis, widow of Henry IV. Regent. It was fhipped at Leghorn, and the veflel which contained it was loft on the coaft of Normandy, near Havre de Grace, the horfe remained a year in the fea, it was, however, got out a,n.d. feat to Paris in 1614. f **3 J This ftatue ufed to be the idol of the Parifians ; immediately after the revolu- tion is was decorated with the national cockade ; during three evenings after the federation, in 1790, magnificent feftivals were celebrated before it. It was broken in many pieces by the fall ; the bronze was not half an inclt thick, and the hollow part was filled up with brick earth, The fifth and laft was overthrown in the afternoon of the fame day ; it was fituated in the Place Roy ale ; it was an equeftrian ftatue in bronze, of Lewis XIII. on a vaft pedeftal of white marble; it was erected in 1639. The horfe was the work of Daniel Volterra ; the figure of the king was by Bisrd. The people were feveral days employ- ed in pulling down all the ftatues and L 3 bufts [ r ' r 4 J bufts of kings and queens they could' find. On the Monday I faw a marble or ftone ftatue, as large as the life, tumbled from the top of the Hotel de Ville into the Place de Greve, at that time full of people, by which two men were killed, as I was told, and I did not wifh to verify the affertion myfelf, but retired. They then proceeded to deface and efface every crown, every jleur de lis^ every infcriptlon wherein the words king, queen, prince, royal, or the like, were found*. The hotels and lodging- houfes were compelled to erafe and change their names, that of the Prince de Galles muft be called de Galles only ; that of Bourbon muft have a new name ; a fign au lys d" or (the golden lily) was pulled down ; even billiard tables are no longer noble or royal. The t *i5 I The Pout-royal, the new bridge of Lewis XVI. the Place des ViEloires, the Place Royale, the i?if£ cT Artois, &c. have all new names, which, added to the divifion of the kingdom into eightyr three departments, abolifhing all the an- cient noble names of Bourgogne, Cham- pagne^ Provence,, Languedoc, Bretagne^ Navarre, Normandie, &c. and in their ftead fubftituting fuch as thefe ; Ain r , Aube, Aude, Cher, Creufe, Daubs, Eure y Card, Gers, Indre, Lot, Orne, Sarte, Tame, Far, Ss?h which are the names of infignificant rivers ; to that of Paris into forty-eight new fe&ions, and to all titles being likewife abolifhed, makes it very difficult for a ftranger to know any thing about the geography of the king- dom, nor what were the ci-devant titles of fuch of the nobility as ftill remain in France, and who are at prefent only known by their family names, BEHEADING* [ "6 j BEHEADING. DEAD NAKED BODIES, BUT to return to thofe " a£blve citizens, whom ariftocratic infolence has ftiled fans calottes,, brigands "* On Sunday, they dragged a man to the Hotel de Ville, before a magis- trate, to be tried for having ftolen fomething in the Tuileries, as they laid* He was accordingly tried, fearched, and nothing being found on him, was acquitted ; n importe, laid thefe .* Thefe are the words of a Frenchnewfpaper, called, Journal univerfel, ou Revolutions dex RoyaumeSj, par J. P. Audorin. No. 994, for Sdoday, 1 2 Auguft, 4th year of Liberty, under the motto of Liberty, Patrk>tifm and Truth. [ "7 1 chefe citizens, we muft have his head for all that, for we caught him in the a£t of ftealing. They laid him on his back on the ground, and in the pre- fence of the judge, who had acquitted him, they fawed off his head in about a quarter of an hour, with an old notched fcythe, and then gave it to the boys to carry about on a pike, leaving the carcafe in the juftice- halL* At the corner of almoft every chief ftreet is a black marble flab, inferted in the wall about ten feet-high, on which is cut in large letters, gilt, Loix et attes. de r anthorite publique (laws and a£ts of * This is inferted on the authority of a lady, a native of the French Weft-India IHes, who refided in the fame hotel with me, and who, with two gentlemen who attended her, were witnefles to this tranfa£Hon, which they told to. whoever chofe to liften. [ m ] €>f the public authority)- and under- neath are pafted the daily and fome- times hourly decrees and notices of the National Aflembly. One of thefe ac- quainted the citizens, that Mandat (the former commander-general of the national guards) had yefterday under- gone the punifhment due to his crimes ; that is to fay, the people had cut off his head* During feveral days after the day I procured all the Paris newfpapers, about twenty, but all on the fame fide, as the people had put the editors of the ariftocratic papers, hors d'etat de par- kr (prevented their fpeaking) by be^ heading one or two of them, and de~ ftroying all their preffes, They, about this time, hanged two money changers (people who gave paper for lotus d' ors^ crowns, and gui- neas) i "9 1 neas) under the idea that the money was lent to the emigrants. On the Saturday mornings at feven f I was in the Tuikries gardens ; only thirty-eight dead naked bodies were ftill lying there ; they were however covered where decency required ; the people who ftript them on the preceding evening, having cut a gafh in the belly, and left a bit of the flint flicking to the carcafe by means of the dried blood* I was told, that the body of a lady had juft been carried out of the Garonfel iquare; fhe was the only woman killed* and that probably by accident. Here I had the pleafure of feeing many beautiful ladies (and ugly ones too as I thought) walking arm in arm with their male friends, though fo early in the morning, and forming little groups., occupied in contemplating the mangled naked and ftiif carcafes. The t 120 ] The fair fex has been equally coura- geous and curious, in former times, in this as well as in other countries ; and of this we fhall produce a few Iflrftances, as follows. tOURAGE i 1*1 ] COURAGE AND CURIOSITY OF THE F*UR SEX. MASSACRE IN 1572* ON the 24th of Auguft, Si Bartho- lemew's day, 1572, the maflacre. of Lhe Hugonots or Calvinifts, began by the murder of Admiral Coligni ; the fi^nal was to have been given at midnight ; but Catherine vf Medicis, mother to the then King Charles IX. (who was only two and twenty years of age) hajl- ened the fignal more than an hour, and -endeavoured to encourage her fon, by quoting a paflage from a fermon : " What pity do we not fhew in bekig cruel ? what cruelty would it not be to have pity ?" M In [ *4t J in Mr. WraxalFs account of this jnaiTacre, in his Memoirs of the Kings of France of the Race of Valois, compil- ed from ail the French hiftorians, he fays, Soubife, covered with wounds, after a long and gallant defence, was 1 finally put to death under the queen- mother's windows. The ladies of the court, from a favage and horrible curio- fity, went to view his naked body, dis- figured and bloody, An Italian fir ft cut off Coligms head, which was prefented to Catherine of Medicis. The populace then exhaufted all their brutal and unreft rained fury on the trunk. They cut oif the hands, after which it was left on a dunghill ; in the afternoon they took it up again, dragged it three days in the dirt, then ,on the banks of the Seine, and laftlv carried it to Mont-fancon (an eminence between the Famxbourg St. Martin and the [ m % the Temple , on which they erected" k gallows). It was here hung by the feet with an iron chain, and a fire light- ed under it, with which it was half roafted. In this fituation the King ar J feveral of the courtieni went to furvcy it. Thefe remains were at length taken- down privately in the night* and inter - red at Chan! illy**' " During feven days the maiiacre c\3 not ceafe, though its extreme fury fpen; ftfelf in the two firfb* " Every enormity, every profanation* every atrocious crime, which zeal, re- venge, and cruel policy are capable of. influencing mankind to commit, ftaln the dreadful regiftcrs of this unhappy period. More than five thoufand per-- fons of all ranks periihed by various {pedes of deaths. The Seine was loaded with carcafas floating on it, and Charles- fed [ 12 4 ] fed his eyes from the windows of the Louvre y with this unnatural and abo- minable fpedtacle of horror. A butcher who entered the palace during the heat of the raaffacre, boafted to his fovereign, baring his bloody arm, that he himfelf, had difpatched an hundred and fifty." " Catherine of Medicis y the preliding demon, who fcattered deftrudtion in fo many fhapes, was not melted into pity at the view of fuch complicated and extenfive mifery ; fhe gazed with favage fatisfadtion on the head of Collgni which was brought her." Sully only flightly mentions this maf- facre, of which he was notwithftanding an eye-witnefs, becaufe he was but twelve years of age. Mezeray gives the moft circumftantial account of it ; he fays, " The ftreets were £ &5 ] Were paved with dead or dying bodies,/ the portes-cocheresy (great gates of the hotels) were flopped up with them, there were heaps of them in the public fquares, the ftreet-kennels overflowed with blood, which ran gufliing into the river. Six hundred houfes were pillaged at different times, and four thoufand per- fons were maflacred with all the inhu- manity and all the tumult that can be imagined." " Among the flain was Charles de ^uellene Pontivy, likewife called Soubife, becaufe he had married Catherine y only daughter and heirefs of Jean de Partenay Baron de Soubife : this Lady had entered an a&ion again!! him for impotence ; His naked dead body being among others dragged before the Louvre, there were ladies curious enough to examine leifurely, if they could difcover the M 3 caufo, I 126 J caufe or the marks of the defeat of which he had been accufed." Brantome, in his memoirs of Charles IX. fays, " As foon as it was day the king looked out of the window, and feeing that many people were running away in the fanxbourg St. Germain, he took a large hunting arque-hufe, and Ihot at them many times, but in vain, for the gun did not carry fo far."* He took great pleafure in feeing floating in the river, under his windows, more than four thoufand dead bodies." A French writer, Mr. du Laure r ia k Defcription of Paris, juft publifhed^ fay , " About thirty thoufand perfons w r ere !:illed on that night in Paris and in the country ; few of the citizens but were * The kin^ was fhooting from the Louvre^ an<£ the Fauxbourg St* Germain is on t>he other fide of the river. [ l2 7 1 were either aflaffins or aflaffinated. Am- bition, the hatred of the great, of a woman, the feeblenefs and cruelty of of a king, the fpirit of party, the fana- ticifm of the people, animated thofe fcenes of horror, which do not depofe fo much againft the French nation, at that time governed by ftrangers, as againft the paffions of the great, and the ill- directed zeal of the religion of an igno- rant populace." Another French publication fays, M The ioth of Auguft, 1792, was much more terrible than the 24th of Auguft, 1572," for the reafons I muft refer to the pamphlet. * A few * Revolutions de Paris, No. 10 r, par Prttd- homme % membre de la Societe des indigens, fous la; devife" Les Grands ne nous paroifent grands que parceque nous fommes a genoux—Levons nous. — (The Great are only great becaufe we are kneel- ing. — Let us rife.) [ "8 ] A few more modern inftances of fe- male fortitude are given in a- note.* * On the 25th of March, 1757, Damiens, who flatbed Lewis XV. was executed in the Place de Greve \ four horfes were to pull his arms and legs from his body : they were fifty minutes pulling in vain, and at laft his joints were obliged to be cut : he fupported thefe torments patiently, and expired whilft the tendons of his moulders were cutting, though he was living after his legs and thighs had been torn from his body ; his right hand had been previoufly cut off*. I was in Paris in 1768, and then, and at various times fince have been allured by eye-witnefies, that almoft all the windows of the fquare where the execu- tion was performed were hired by ladies, at from - two to ten louis each. Mr. Thicknefle in his " Year s journey through France and part of Spain y " in a letter dated Dijon in Burgundy j 1776, mentions a man whom he faw broke alive on the wheel by, u the executioner and his mother, who affifted at this horrid bufinefs, thefe both feemed to enjoy the deadly office." I have formerly given an account of the Spanifh ladks enjoying the barbarities of the bull-fights. MISCEL- [ 12 9 ] MISCELLANIES. NUMBER OF SLAIN. ON that fame Saturday morning the dead Swifs, the broken furniture of the palace) and the burning woodwork of the barracks, were all gathered together in a vaft heap, and fet fire to. I faw this pile at twenty or thirty yards diftance, and I was told that fome of the women who were fpe&ators took out an arm or a leg that was broiling, to tafte : this I did not fee> but I fee no reafon for not believing it* On the afternoon of this day, the coffee-houfes were, as ufual, filled with idle people, who amufed themfelves with playing at the baby-game of doming. No [ l 3° ] No coaches except fiacres (hackney- coaches) were now to be feen about the ftreets : the theatres continued on the following mornings to advertife their performances, and in the afternoon frefh advertifements were pafted over thefe, faying, there would be relache au theatre (refpite, intermiffion.) - A few days after, fome of the theatres advertifed to perform for the benefit of the families of the flam, but few perfons attended the reprefentation, through fear 5 becaufe the fans-culottes talked of pulling down all the theatres, which, they faid, gataient Its mteurs, (corrupt- ed the morals) of the people. Ever fmce the ioth, I knew the bar- riers had been guarded, to prevent any perfon from leaving Paris, but I now was informed that that had been the. cafe three days previous to that day, which may feem to imply that fome ap~ prehenfions prehenfions were formed, that violent meafures would take place fomewhere. About this time the officers were obliged by the fa?is-culottes to wear worft- ed inftead of gold or filver fhoulder- knots ; and no more cloudy carriages were to be feen in the ftreets. Portraits of the king, with the body of a hog, and of the queen, with that of a tygrefs were engraven and publicly ibid. A book was published, entitled, Crimes of Louis XVI. the author of which advertifed that he was then print- ing a book of the Crimes of the Popes ^ after which he intended to publifh the crimes of all the potentates in Europe. As I could not get out of Paris, to make any little excurfions to nurfery and other gardens, to Vincennes^ to Mmtrewl, and as the inhabitants of Paris t 1J» 1 Paris were too much alarmed to retain any relifh for fociety, (public places out of the queftion,) I was defirous of get- ing away as foon as poflible, and applied firft to the ufual officers for a pafs, which was refufed. That of Lord Gower (the ambafiador) was at this time of no ufe, but it became fo afterwards, as fhall be mentioned. On the Monday (13th Auguft) I wrote a letter of about ten lines to the Prefident of the National Affembly, foliciting a pafs. This I carried myfelf, and fent it in by one of the clerks. The Prefident immediately read the letter, and the Aflembly decreed a pafs for me ; but the next day, when I applied for it to the comite de Jurveillance^ (committee of infpedion) it, or they, knew nothing of the matter. I then went to the mairit {mayoralty houfe) but m vain. Hei£ t *33 ] Here an officer of the national guard who had been prefent during the whole of the battle of the 10 th, faid to me, u La journee a ete nn pen forte, nous avons eu plus de quince cens des nofrei de tues" (the day was rather warm ; we have had more than fifteen hundred of our own people killed.) This was confirmed by many more of the officers there, with whom I had a quarter of an hour's converfation, and they all efti* mated the number of the flain at above fix thoufand, which may probably be accounted for in the following manner^ but a demonftration is impoffible. Some affert that there were eight hundred Swifs foldiers in the chateau of the jTuileries ; others but five hundred : let us take the medium of fix hundred and fifty. They had, as every one allows, fix and thirty charges each, and they fired till their ammunition was N expended* [ x 34 J -expended. This makes above three and twenty thpufand fhot, every one of which muft have taken place, on a mob as thick as halftones after a fhower : but allowing for the Swiis themfelves, who were killed during the engagement, which diminifhes the number of fhot, and then allowing likewife, that of two thoufand perfons who were in the palace, we here fay nothing of the remaining thirteen or fourteen hundred, moft of whom were firing as well as they could, perhaps it may not appear exaggerated to fay, that out of above twenty thou- fand fhot, four thoufand mull have taken place mortally ; and this includes the fifteen hundred of the national guard, which were ceitainly known to be milling. Of the other two thoufand five hundred flain, the number could not fo correctly be afcertained, as they confided of citizens without regimentals pr unrf rnru and of fans~cuhttes, none of [ 135 1 of whom were regiftered. AH the pfcf* ions in the palace were killed ; of theie, few, if any, were taken away imme- diately, whereas when any of the ad- vene party were killed, there were people enough who were glad of the opportunity of eicaping from this (laughter, by carrying away the corpfe* We muft then reflect on the number of waggons and carts employed all night in the fame offices, and then we ihail fee great reafon to double the number of the fiaii^ as has Been done in various publications. No idea of this number could ber formed by feeing the field of battle* becaufe feveral bodies were there lying in heaps, and of the others not above two or three could be feen at a time, as the ilreets were after the engagement filled with fpedators, who walked among and over the carcafes. Of [ ] Of the feelings of thefe fpe£tators 5 I judge by niy own : I might perhaps have diHiked feeing a fmgle dead body, but the great number immediately reconciled me to the fight* SPEECHES. [ l 37 J BREECHES. PIKES. NECESSARY PASSPORTS, ANOTHER particular relative to the fans-culottes is their ftandard, being an old pair of breeches, which they carry on the top of a pike, thruft through the waiftband ; the poijfardes likewife ufe the fame ftandard, though it fo happened that I never faw it. On the memorable 20th of June laft, a pikeman got on the top of the Tuileries, where he waved the enfign, or rather fhook the breeches to the populace. The pike-flaves for the army are of different lengths ; of fix, nine, and twelve feet : by this means three ranks N 3 of . [ J of pike-bearers can ufe their arms at once, with the points of the three rows, of pikes evenly extended. The letter which I had written to the Prefident, notwithffcanding its even- tual ill fuecefs, caufed feveral Englifh perfons jointly to write a fomewhat fimilar letter; in which, after having reprefented that their wives and chil- dren wanted them, they faid, they hop- ed their reafons would appear vrai- ftwbhbles, or have the femblanee of truth. The AlTembly on hearing this burft into a laugh, and palled on to the order of the day. On the 1 6th I carried a paffport from Lord Gower to the office of Mr. le Brun y the minifter for foreign affairs ; here I was told to leave it, and I ihould have another in its ftead the next day. The next [ l 39 J next day I applied for it, and was told, no paflports could be delivered. The matter now appeared to me to become ferious, as the courier who had carried the account of the affair of the ioth to London was not yet returned, and that rumours were fpread,. that the Englifh in Paris were aim oft all grands feigneurs Iff artjiocrates ; fo that I faw only two probable means of fafety ; one of which was, to draw up a petition to the National Affembly, in behalf of all the Britifh flibjedts, to get it figned by as many as I could find, and who might chufe to fign it, and to carry it to the Affembly in a fmall body, which might have been the means of procuring a pafs ; and in cafe this was refufed, the other plan would have been for all the Britifh to have incorporated them- felves into a Legion Britannique^ and offered their fervices according to the exigence [ I 4° I exigence of the cafe.* This petitior was accordingly, on the 18th, drawn up by a member of the Englifh Parlia- ment ; tranflated into French, and car- ried about to be figned ; when at the bankers we fortunately met with a per- fon who informed us, that our pafles were ready at the moment, at Mr. le Briins : thither we went ; 1 obtained my pafs at two o'clock afternoon, the petition was torn and given to the winds ; I took a hackney coach that inftant, to carry me to the Pqfle mix chevaux, or- dered the horfes, and before three I was out of the barriers of Paris.. Here follows a copy of my pafifport. At * Before, and on the ioth of Auguft, there v/ere not above thirty Britifh travellers in Paris, but after that day, in lefs- than a week it was fuppofed that above two thoufand had from all parts of the kingdom reforted to the capital, in order to o r >tain paffports to get away. [ I 4 I 1 At the top of the paper is an engrav- ing of a fhield, on which is infcribed Vivre litre on mourir (Jive free or die,) fupported by two female figures, the dexter reprefenting Minerva Handing, with a cap of liberty at tiie end of a pike ; the finifter, the French conftitution per- fonified as a woman fitting on a lion, with one hand holding a book, on which is written Conjlitntion Frangaife, droits de V homme, and with^he other fupport- ing a crown over the fhield, which crown is effaced by a dalh with a pen. Thm follows La nation , la loi f k rol ; this is alfo obliterated with a pen, and inftead is written Liberte, Egalite An no?n de la nation. A tons officiers, civils et militaires., charges de furveiller et de maintenir Forctee [ H' 2 1 fcrdre public dans les differents departe- mens du Royaume, et a tons autres qu'il appartiendra il eft ordonne de laiffer librement paffer T—~ anglais retournant en Angleterrc, porteur iPitn ccrtificat de Jon amhajfadeur* Sans donner ni fouf- frir qu'il lui foit donnc aucun empeche- ment, le prefent paiTe-port valable pour quin i ze jours feulement. Donne a Paris le 1 6 aouft Tan 4 dc la liberte Tu & fa Malrk tt 17 aoujl 1792* Van 4^ de la liberte, Petiotu Here * What is here in italics is in manufcript in the original. There is no Monfieur nor Madame > the word, anglais fhowing the gender of the per- fon to whom the pafs was granted, and is fuf~ ficient for the purpofe. [ M3 1 Here is an impreffion, in red wax, of the arms of Paris, which are gules y a -three-maft fhip in full fail, a chief a%ur% feme with jleurs de or 9 the fhield environed with oak branches and the i cap of liberty as a creft. The infcrip- tion underneath is Maine de Paris , 1789. On one fide of this feal is an efcutcheon with the arms of France, crowned, and over the crown there is a dafh with a pen. And underneath, Gratis- Le miniftre des affaires * etrangeres Le Brun* Vu pajfer Abbeville en Confeil permanent le 20 Aovjl 1 792. Signed by a municipal officer. And on the back of the paflport, Vu au cornite de la feclion pGiJTonniere ce 18 aouft 1792. Signed { *44 1 Signed* by two commiffaries at the barriers of St. Denis, at Paris. Permis cV embarquer a Calais le 22 miijl 1792. Signed by a Secretary* r [ 145 i MISCELLANIES. DANCING. POULTRY. TAVERNS. WIG. SOME days before the demolition of the ftatue of Henri IV. on the Pont- nenf, there was a flag placed near that ftatue, on which was painted citoyens la Patric ejl en danger; (citizens, the mother-country is in danger) and it ftill remained there when I came away. On the Monday after the Friday, I law a paper on the w^alls, among thofe publifhed by authority, wherein a per- fon acquainted the public, that on the preceding Saturday, in confequence of fome fufpicions which had been enter- tained of his principles, his houfe had been vifited by above thirty thoufand O perfons ; r h* i perfons ;* and that notwithftandmg mafons and fmiths had been employed in pulling down, breaking open and fcrutinizing, the people had found nothing to criminate him, and he had found nothing miffing in confequence of their fcrutiny. I had the pleafure of reading this aloud to an aflemblage of elderly ladies, not one of whom could fee to read it, as it was placed out of theis focus, or too high, as they faid. Before the I oth I faw feveral dancing parties of the Potjfardes and fans-culottes in the beer-houfes, on the %uai des Orrnes and the t>uai St. Paul, and have played the favourite and animating air of fa ira y on the fiddle, to eight couple of dancers ; the ceiling of thefe rooms (which open • into * Poco mas o mems y (a little more or lefs) a> the Spaniards fay when they are complimented with Viva V.S.. mil ams (may foti live a tho&ftad years.) C H7 1 into the flreet) Is not above ten feet high* and on this ceiling (which is generally white waflied) are the numbers I 2 to 8, in black, and the fame in red, which mark the places where the ladies and gentlemen are to ftand. When the dance was concluded, I requefted the ladies to falute me (mtmbr offer ) which they did, by gently touching my cheek with their lips. But a period was put to all thefe amufements by the occur- rences of the 10th; after which day, moft of my time was employed in en- deavouring to obtain a paflport. On the Sfudi des Augujlins^ at fix or feven in the morning, may be feen a market of above a quarter of a mile long, well flocked with fowls, pigeon 5^ ducks, geefe, and turkies : thefe birds are all termed Volatile* Rabbits are likewiie fold in this market. I alfo faw here.:... a., few., live p-ieafants, . red- leaded- [ ] legged partridges and quails in cages, for fale. I did not fee a louts cfor this time in Paris ; it is probable that a new golden coin may be ftruck of a different value and name, and without the name of the die-engraver. There are few, if any, tables d'hote (ordinaries) in Paris at prefent, except at the inns. I have not feen any for many years, becaufe the hour of dining at them is about one o'clock, and that it is cuftot- mary to be ferved in thofe coffee-houfes which are kept by rejlaurateitrs and traiteurs (cooks) after the Englifh man- ner, at fmall tables, and there are bills of fare, with the prices of the articles marked. The moft celebrated of thefe houfes is called la Taverne de Londres^ in the garden of the Palais-Royal : here are large public rooms, and alfo many f r 49 ] linall ones, and a bill of fare printed on a folio fheet, containing almoft every fort of provifion, (carp, eels, and pickled falmon are the only fifh I have feen there*) An Englifhman may here have his beef-fteak, plum-pudding, Chefhire cheefe, porter and punch juft as in London, and at about the fame price, (half the price as the exchange then was,) Thirty-five forts of wine are here enumerated. That of "Tokay is at two livres for a fmall glafs, of which a quart-bottle may contain about fifteen. Rhenijh, Mountain, Alicante, Rota, and red Frontignan at 6 livres, Cham- pagne y Claret, Hermitage, 4/. ioj. Port, 3/. iol Burgundy, 3/. Porter, 2/. i ox. Moll of the diihes are of filveiy and I dined at two or three other taverns were all the difhes and plates were of filver. The [ ISO ] The barters or hair-dreffers have generally written on their fign lei on rajeunit : rajeunir means properly to colour or die the hair, but in this inftance it only exprefies, here people are made to look younger than they are, by hav- ing their hair drefled. I faw a peruke- maker's fign reprefenting the fable of the man and his two wives, thus : A middle-aged gentleman is fitting in a magnificent apartment, between an old lady ai).d a young one^ fafhionably drelfed. His head is entirely bald, the old lady having juft pulled out the black hairs, as the young one did the grey : and Cupid is flying over his head, hold- ing a nice periwig ready to. put on it. EXTENT, [ i5i ] EXTENT, POPULATION, &C OF FRANCE. THE authorities for a great part of what follows are Mr. Rabaufs Hiftory of the Revolution, 1792 ; Mr.du Laures Paris, 179^ Geograpbie de France, 1792, fecond edition, and Voyage dans les Depart emens de la France, 1792. France is a country which extends nine degrees from North to South, and between ten and eleven from Eaft to Weft, making fix and twenty thoufand fquare leagues, and containing twenty- feven millions of people. In 1790, u There were four millions of armed men in France acquainted with their own ftrength and above all with their rights ; [ ^ ] rights ; three of thefe millions wore the uniform of the nation." The number of warriors, or fighting men, is very conliderably encreafed fince that time. " In this immenfe population, is found at leaft three millions of indivi- duals of different religions, whom the prefent catholicks look upon with bro- therly eyes. The proteftant and the Catholick now embrace each other on the threfhold were Coligni was murdered; and the difciples of Calvin invoke the Eternal after their manner, within a few paces* of the balcony from whence Charles IX. fhot at his fubje&s." In * The church of St, Louis du Louvre is at pre- fent made ufe of as a place of worfhip by pro- teftants. All the church lands are reverted to the nation* In a fpeech which the Abbe Maury made in the National AlFembly, about two years ago, he eftimated [ m J In this country there are no titles, no armorial bearings, no liveries, no cor- porations, no exclulive rights of hunt- ing, fifhing, warrens and dove-cots, no game-laws, no turnpikes, no trouble- fome and vexatious cuftom-houfe duties, no inquifitorial fearches to moleft tra- vellers on the road, nor citizens in their haufes, no monopolies, not even in the diversions of the people, fuch as play- houfes, eftimated the value of the property belonging to ecelefiafticks in France at two thoufand two hun- dred millions of Hvres, Deux milliards deux cens mill'wis ) near ninety-two millions fterling, the intereft or produce of which, at 3-*- per cent, per annum, amounts to the three millions before- mentioned. France fuffices to itfelf ; it contains all the in~ cligenous productions of Europe, The French hope, that the number of foreign- ers who will refort to their country, defirous of ranging themfelves under the banners of liberty, after it mall be more fettled, will abundantly compenfate the lofs of the emigrants* [ *54 I houfes, ball-rooms, &c. no licenfes, no apprenticefhips. The trade to India is allowed to every one ; the civil right?,, the equality of contributions, of admif- fion to public offices, of rewards, of punilhmen ts, are fixed; every liberty in addon in difcourfe, in writing,* in opinion, m religion, and in worfhip, is permitted under the prote&ion of the !a •, which only puniflies the evils done to fociety or to individuals. The capital, when compared to Lon- don, for extent is as 26410 195, (nearly as 7 to 5) that is to fay, according to the calculation beforementioned (p. 35) Paris ftands on 6tW fquare miles of ground, and London on 5ttp It contains a million and 1.30 thou- fand inhabitants, which is fifty thoufand more * This is not exa£ily the eafe relative to poli- tical writings at prefent. £ w ] more than it did two years ago ; thefe formerly inhabited Versailles ^ and left it at the time the court did. Lyon contains 160 thoufand perfons. Marfeille, the moft populous, in pro- portion to the iize, of any city in Europe, contains, in a fpot of little more than three miles in circumference, 120 thou- fand perfons, which includes about 30,000 mariners on board of the fhips in the harbour,* Bordeaux, 100,000. The popula- tion of many more cities is given in a note, * I was there in 1768, and again in 1783 and 1 7 84, above four months. People of all nations are there feen in their proper habits ; all lan- guages are fpoken \ it is a free port, and the ftaple of the Levant trade, as well as of the Weft-Indian commerce. — There are regular vef- fcls which fail monthly to Constantinople. t ] note,* befides which there are others, the number of whofe inhabitants I can- not learn, fuch as Touloufe^ Toulon ^ Br eft ^ Orange^ Blols^ Avignon^ &c. The * Dunherque 80,000 Dijon 20,000 Rouen 73,000 Valenciennes 20,000 Lille 65,000 St. Malo 18,000 Nantes 60,000 Beziers 18,000 Nifmes 50,000 Sedan 18,000 Strafvourg - 46,000 Carcajfonne 18,000 Amiens 44,000 Havre de Grace 18,000 Metz 40,000 Moulins 17,000 Caen 40,000 La Rochelle 16,000 Orleans 40,000 Poitiers 16,000 Refines 35,000 Auxcrre 16,000 Nancy 34,000 Perpignan 16,000 Montpellier 32,000 Chalons 15,000 Reims 30,000 Beauvais 15,000 Clermont 30,000 Riom 15,000 Troyes 30,000 Nevers 14,000 Grenoble 30,000 Boulogne 1 2,000 Befancon 26,000 Bayonne 12,000 Aix 25,000 SoiJJons + 12,000 Bourges 25,000 Anpoulhne 1 1,000 Tours 22,000 Pan 1 1,000 Arras 22,000 Alby 10,000 Limoges 22,000 Alais 10,000 Abbeville - 20,000 Grajfe 10,000 Verdun 20,000 Versailles 10,000 Aries 20,000 > [ l 57 3 The nation gains five millions fter- ing per annum by being without a court, and by not having any unnecefiary cler- gymen to maintain,"}" and the forfeited eftates of the emigrants are eflimated at immenfe funis* § The .f By a decree in November, 1 7 £9, no curate is to have lefs falary than fifty Louis per annum, not including his houfe and garden. Many of the French at prefent think that clergymen mould be retained like phyficiaris, and paid by thofe only who want them. By this means, they fay, reli- gious quarrels would be avoided ; of all quarrels the moll abfurH, becaufe nobody can underftand any thing about the matter. " Performe ii y attend rien" § The civil lift mentioned in page 78, was ac- cording to the old eftablifhment. In January, 1 790, the king was requefted to fix a fum for the civil lift himfelf, and in June following he fent a letter to the National Aflembly, demanding five and twenty millions of livres. It was de- creed that inftant. p [ <5* 1 The heavy taxes on fait ( la gabdle) and on Tobacco are fuppreffed, and thofe two articles are allowed to be ob- jects of commerce.* " No city in the w orld can offer fuch a fpedacle as that of Paris, agitated by fome great paffion, becaufe in no other the communication is fo fpeedy, and the fpirits fo adtive. Paris contains citizens from all the provinces, and thefe various characters blended together compofe the national chara£ter, which is diftinguifhed by a wonderful irnpe- tuofity. Whatever they will do is done." Witnefs the taking of the Bajlille in a fingle day, which had for- merly withftood the liege of a whole army during three and twenty days. And witnefs the i oth of Auguft. The majefty * Salt, which was formerly fold at fourteen fols per pound, is now at a fingle foL Tobacco is permitted to be cultivated by " whoever will." [ m I majefty of the people was never more confpicuous than on that day. I have been frequently told by per- Ions in England, that a regular and dii- ciplined army may eafily crufh a herd of raw and inexperienced rabble, inch as they fuppofed the French were, although ten times more numerous. This may poffibly be the event in fmall numbers ; but, if we ftate the cafe with- large numbers, for inftance fifty thou- fand men of the greatefl courage, and of the moft perfect difcipline,, and who are fighting for pay, without any per- fonal motive, againft five hundred thou- fand men, whom we fhall fuppofe ut- terly ignorant of the art of war, but who conceive they are fighting for their liberty and their country, for their families and their property, and then refledt on the courage and bravery of ihefe very men, on their impetuolity* their I 160 J their ncharnement, or defperate 'violence in fight, which may he compared to the irrefiftible force of water-fpouts, and of whirlwinds, it may not appear too par- tial to conjecture, that fuch perfons may perceive fome little reafon for fufpend- ing, if not for altering, their opinion,* and * 1 faw many thoufands of thefe men (from my windows) on their way to the TuUeries? early on the Friday morning ; their march was at the f?xt^ of perhapg five miles an hoiu% without run- ning Of looking ^fide j ana this was the puce they ufcd when they carried heads upon pikes, and when they were in purfuit of important bufineft* ruining along the ftreets like a torrent, and attend- ing wholly and folely to the objecT: they had in view. On fuch occafions, when I faw them ap- proaching, I turned into fome crofs ftreet till they were palled, not that I had any thing to pprehend, but the being fwept along with the crowd, and perhaps trampled upon. I cannot exprefs what I felt on feeing fuch immenfe bodies of men fo vigoroufly actuated by the fame prin- ciple. I faw alfo many thoufands of volunteers going L I and may now eftimate the degree of danger this nation may apprehend from the attacks of extraneous powers, pro- vided its own people are unanimous, EMENDATIONS, going to join the armies at the frontiers, marching along the Boulevards^ almoft at the fame pace, ac- companied as far as the Barriers by their women, who were carrying their mulkets for them ; fome with large faufages, pieces of cold meat, and loaves of bread, ftuck on the bayonets, and all laughing, or finging ga ira. The French writers themfelves fay, " In all po- pular commotions the women have always mown the greateft boldnefs." ^ 3 \ [ 1 62 I EMENDATIONS AND ADDITIONS, RETURN TO CALAIS. THE paragraph at the top of page 14, is intended to be merely de- fcriptive, but not ludicrous, fo that the reader is requefted to expunge the word night. In the enumeration of the Bifhop- ricks (page 1 6) I unaccountably omitted the ten metropolitan fees, which are thofe of Paris, Lyon, Bourdeaux, Rouen, Reims, Bejanfon, Bourges, Rennes, Aix and louloufe: Thus there are eighty- three bifhopricks, or one for each de- partment After [ 163 ] After what is faid (in page 1 15) rela- tive to the divifion of the country, there fhould, in juftice, be added : " To the confufed medley of Bailhvicks, Senef- chal-jurifdiEtions , Elections, Generalities, Diocefes, Parliaments, Governments, &c. there fucceeded a fimple and uniform divifion ; there were no longer any provinces, but only one family, one nation : France was the nation of eighty- three departments." Notwithftanding this, I regret the ancient names of the provinces. The old Atlas of France is become ufelefs, as the whole of its geo- graphy is altered. The land is at pre- fent divided into nine regions, and each of thefe into nine departments ; Paris and the country about ten miles around (24fquare leagues) forms one, and the Ifland of Corftea another department. In the modern Atlas, after every new name, is put ci-devant, and then the old name, thus : Region du Levafit, departement [ i6 4 ] departement de la cote d^or, ci-devant Bourgogne. I called one day after din- ing in a tavern, for a bottle of wine of the Departement de V Anbe, Region des Sources, the landlord confulted his Atlas , and then brought the bottle of Cham- pagne I required. It will be fome time before foreigners are fufficiently fami- liarized to the new phrafes which muft be ufed for Gafcon, Normandy Breton^ Proven fal f Picard, &c** The * The author of the Voyage de France fays a u The a&ual divifion of France may appear to geographers as defe£tive as the ancient one. Perhaps artifts fhould have been more confulted. Then there would not have been fhown in it fo much of the fpirit of party, which, in great aflemblies, too often fmothers the voice of reafon, nor fo many efFe£ts of the ignorance of political meafures, who lightly ftride over barriers which nature has oppofed- to them, and who appear to have forgotten the neceffity of communi- cations." C »% ] The following paragraphs are taken nom the new Voyage de France. " During fourteen hundred years, priority in follies, in fuperftition, in ignorance, in fanaticifm, and in fiavery, was the picture of France, It was juft, therefore, that priority in philofophy, and in knowledge, fhould fucceed to fo many odious pre-eminences." u The French people, to whom liberty is now new, arc like the waves of the fea, which roll long after the tempeft has ceafed : and of which the agitation is neeeflary to depofe on the fhores the fcum which covers them/ 5 " The confufion infeparable from a new order of things, has neceffarily cauf- ed Paris to fwarm with vagabonds ; fo that far from being furprifed that fome crimes have been committed, we ought rather [ 1 66 J rather to wonder that they are not more frequent," a When Louis XVI. was brought back to Paris (25 June, 1791) the in- habitants of the fauxbourgs pafted a pla- card (advertifement) againft the walls, faying, " Whoever applauds him fhall " be cudgelled, whoever attacks him " fhall be hanged." An awful filence was obferved." After the account of the Pantheon (p. 35) fhould be added : In April, 1 79 1 , the body of Mlrabeau was de~ pofited here ; and, in July following, that of Voltaire. Soon after this it was decreed, that Roujfeau had merited the honours due to great men, but that his aihes fhould remain where they were. To the lift of engravings of the Maiden muft be added another, pre- fixed t 167 ] fixed to a little trad, called Gibbet- Law. By pre?mer An de V Egalite, (firfl year of Equality) it is not to be imder- ftood that every perfon in France is equal, but that as they have no fove- reign, no perfon is above, but every perfon is equally under the protection of the law. This matter has been both mifunderftood and raifreprefented in England. On the 1 8th I was out of the bar- riers of Paris by three in the afternoon, and proceeded to Chantilly^ where we* arrived at nine, and remained for the night, * The Gentleman who came with me, an Englifh and an Irifh Gentleman, with their La- dies, in their own chaifes. There is an o