7 
 
 §xmt ai# tijt §fllkir 
 
 I 
 
GREECE, 
 
 AND THE 
 
 OLDEN HORN. 
 
 Bt 
 
 STEPHEN OLIN, D.D. 1L.D., 
 
 tATK PRESIDENT OF THE WESLETAN UNITBRSITT. 
 
 WITH AN INTRODUCTION, 
 
 BY REY. JOHN M‘CLLNTOCK, D.D. . 
 
 NEW YOKE: 
 CARLTON & PHILLIPS, 
 200 MULBERRY STREET. 
 1854 . 
 
Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1854, by 
 JULIA M. OLIN 
 
 In the Clerk^s Office of the District Court for the Southern District of 
 New York. 
 
 
 BTIRaOTYPKD BT 
 
 THOMAS B. SMITH, 
 216 William Street, N. Y. 
 
 PRINTED BT 
 
 JOHN A. GRAY, 
 93 & 97 Cliff St. 
 
t 
 
 TO THE FRIEJfDS 
 
 OF 
 
 J h c 31) e 3 1 e y {) ii ll 11 i b c l' ,s i t y . 
 
 THIS VOLUME, 
 
 WRITTEN BY A PEn'fOREVER LAID ASIDE, 
 
 rcspectfulla? tietifCcitetJ. 
 
 A CORDIAL WELCOME FROM THEM, MAY GIVE IT POWER 
 TO AID AN INSTITUTION, FOR WBICH A SAINTED ’ 
 SPIRIT LABORED AND PRAYED. 
 
 
|ntr0htction 
 
 The work now presented to the reader was left in manuscript 
 by the lamented author. Ilis “ Travels in the East,” which has 
 been for some years before the public, has gained the rank of a 
 standard work upon the lands of the Bible ; indeed, it is in many 
 respects the best work on those countries, for general readers, that 
 has yet appeared. This is eminently true with regard to Dr. Olin’s 
 account of Egypt, which brings together the best account of the 
 policy of Mehemet Ali and of its results in the condition of the 
 country, that can be found anywhere, to our knowledge, within 
 the same compass. 
 
 The present volume is characterized by the same excellent 
 qualities that have marked all Dr. Olin’s writings. His mind was 
 singularly comprehensive; but, at the same time, had a rare faculty 
 of accurate and minute observation; and these qualifications, 
 combined with a severe and conscientious truthfulness, fitted him 
 admirably to write books of travel. He does not, indeed, give us 
 romance ; but reality is better ; he tells what he saw, not what 
 he dreamed. It is true, that amid associations such as those that 
 haunt the hills of Athens, his calm mind grows imaginative, and, 
 to use his own language, “ finds it easy to repeople scenes that 
 have been consecrated by the highest examples of genius and 
 virtue;” but his judgment, ever cool and collected, does not fail 
 him under any degree of intellectual excitement, and his words 
 may always be taken for true in their full meaning. 
 
 It must be remembered, however, that these pages were not 
 prepared for the press by Dr. Olin. It cannot be expected, there- 
 
Vlll 
 
 Introduction. 
 
 fore, that they will show the fineness of finish, or even the full- 
 ness of detail that would have been given them by his final re- 
 vision. 
 
 The countries of which they treat have always been full of in- 
 terest ; but now men’s eyes, in all lands, are turned with straining 
 anxiety to “ Greece and the Golden Horn.” Within the terri- 
 tory indicated by those titles, will be found the earliest seats of 
 empire, the scenes of God’s nearest approach to man, the ground 
 hallowed by the feet of the Saviour, the sites of the Apocalyptic 
 churches — in a word, all the sacred localities of the Bible. W’^ithin 
 that territory the noblest races and the highest acts of mankind 
 liave originated and flourished. It has been the seat of more 
 history than any other portion of the earth’s surface ; and this 
 day, its strangest history, perhaps, is enacting before our eyes. 
 The Mussulman and the Giaour have often met in deadly combat ; 
 for ages there has been hereditary strife between them. It has 
 been thought that prophecy, and policy, and wisdom have all 
 alike called for the overthrow of the Ottoman, and the rescue of 
 the holy places from his sacrilegious hands. But now a new 
 crusade is preached within the coasts of England and through 
 the valleys of France,— not to drive the Turk from Byzantium 
 and Jerusalem, but to keep him on his tlirone, and to preserve 
 the integrity of his dominion. The Czar is, by profession, a 
 Christian monarch ; the faith of his people is that wiiich for- 
 merly w'as preached in St. Sophia; but France and England 
 unite with the Sultan against the Czar. How is this change to 
 be accounted for ? 
 
 The reason is not far to seek. The old names do not mean the 
 old things. The Czar affects to consider Turkey moribund, and 
 wishes to be in at the death and take the lion’s share of the spoil. 
 To secure his ends he has exhausted every artifice of fraud and 
 dissimulation, and now resorts to force of arms, seeking to call 
 out the fiercest ferocity of his savage hordes by baptizing his am- 
 bition with a Christian title, and declaring, unblushingly, to all 
 the world, that he is fighting the old hereditary battle of the 
 Cross against the Crescent. In all this he commits at once a 
 
Introduction. 
 
 IX 
 
 great mistake and a great crime. His mistake is in supposing 
 Turkey to be dying at the very time when she shows a most un- 
 conquerable vitality, and is, indeed, taking to herself new powers 
 and a new lease of life, by dropping her old and worn-out forms 
 of life. One great principle of political vitality it ha? always had 
 — a principle which will prevent too rapid changes, and at the 
 same time make all needful changes possible without revolution — 
 namely, municipal privileges and a free provincial distribution of 
 authority. Neither in extent of dominion, in resources, nor in 
 spirit, is Turkey either dead or dying. Michelsen gives the fol- 
 lowing statistics : 
 
 “ The Ottoman Empire extends over a part of Europe, Asia, and 
 Africa, embracing an area of about 913,000 square miles. 
 
 “ Including the tributary provinces, the population is as follows : 
 
 EUROPEAN TURKEY (rUMILI). 
 
 Thrace . . . 
 
 . 1,800,000 
 
 Bulgaria . . * . 
 
 . 4,000,000 
 
 Moldavia .... 
 
 . 1,400,000 
 
 Wallachia .... 
 
 . . 2,000,000 
 
 Bosnia and Herzegowina . 
 
 . . 1,400,000 
 
 Rumelia .... 
 
 . 2,600,000 
 
 Servia ... 
 
 . 1,600,000 
 
 Islands of the Archipelago . 
 
 . 700,000 
 
 15,500,000 
 
 ASIATIC TURKEY (aNADOLU). 
 
 Asia Minor 10,700,000 
 
 Syrians, Mesopotamia and Kurdistan 4,450,000 
 
 Arabia, (Mecca, Medina, Habesh) . 900,000 
 
 16,050,000 
 
 AFRICAN TURKEY (GARB). 
 
 Egypt . 2,000,000 
 
 Tripolis, Fezzan, Tunis . . 1,800,000 
 
 3,800,000 
 
 35,350,000 
 
X 
 
 Introduction. 
 
 Dividing the population into races and tribes, the result is as 
 follows ; — 
 
 Races or Tribes. 
 
 In Europe. 
 
 Ottomans 
 
 1,100,000 
 
 Slavonians 
 
 7,200,000 
 
 Rumanians 
 
 4,000,000 
 
 Arnauts 
 
 1,500,000 
 
 Greeks 
 
 1,000,000 
 
 Armenians 
 
 400,000 
 
 Jews 
 
 70,000 
 
 Tartars 
 
 230,000 
 
 Arabs 
 
 
 Syrians and 
 
 
 Chaldeans 
 
 
 Druses 
 
 
 Kurds 
 
 
 Turkomans 
 
 
 In Asia. In Africa. Total. 
 
 10,700,000 11,800,000 
 
 7,200,000 
 
 4,000,000 
 
 1,600,000 
 
 1 , 000,000 2 , 000,000 
 
 2.000. 000 2,400,000, 
 
 100.000 170,000 
 
 230,000 
 
 900.000 3,800,000 4,700,000 
 
 23^,000 235,000 
 
 26.000 25,000 
 
 1.000. 000 1,000,000 
 
 90.000 90,000 
 
 16,600,000 16,060,000 3,800,000 
 
 36,350,000 
 
 Taking the population according to religious creeds, the result is ; 
 
 Creeds. In Europe. In Asia. In Africa. Total. 
 
 Mohammedan 8,800,000 12,950,000 3,800,000 20,660,000 
 
 Greeks and 
 
 Armenians 11,870,000 2,360,000 13,730,000 
 
 Ro. Catholic 260,000 640,000 900,000 
 
 Jews 70,000 100,000 170,000 
 
 16,600,000 16,050,000 3,800,000 36,360,000 
 
 Here is a so-called Christian population of fifteen millions ; and 
 besides these, there are foreign Protestants to the number of 
 many thousands, with Protestant missionaries from England and 
 America planted in the most important centres, and engaged in 
 spreading evangelical Christianity. Tlie simple question necessary 
 to be answered, in order to decide on which side lies the Cliru- 
 tianity in this quarrel, is, wdiether these Christian populations 
 and Protestant missionaries can enjoy greater privileges and lib- 
 erties under the Czar than under the Sultan ? Tlie claims of the 
 
Introduction. 
 
 XI 
 
 Czar are maintained by some parties in England ; and even in 
 America, Bishop Southgate at least has declared his “ every feeling 
 of truth and equity convinces him that the claim of Russia is just 
 and moderate, and that it ought to be sustained.” Let us see. 
 
 It is believed that no copy of the Scriptures has been printed 
 in the vernacular language in Russia since 1823. Alexandek 
 favored -the Bible Society, and even established presses to print 
 the sacred book ; but Nicholas has changed all that, and now, 
 according to a statement made by Lord Shaftesbury in his place 
 in Parliament, no printing presses are permitted for printing the 
 Bible in modern Russia^ nor is a single copy of the Bible in that 
 language allowed to circulate. There are two millions of Jews in 
 Russia, but the Czar will not permit a single copy of the Hebrew 
 Bible to pass his frontiers for their use. His policy is to keep his 
 people everywhere in the worse than Asiatic superstition that 
 characterizes his so-called Greek church, and to let them know 
 nothing better than a form of worship, compared with which 
 Jezebel’s worship of Astarte could almost be called rational and 
 respectable. He represses evangelical missions with an iron hand, 
 not merely when they seek to make proselytes from the Greek 
 church, but even when they attack only the heathenism of his 
 outlying provinces. The Moravians had gathered 300 converts 
 among the Calmucks, but the Imperial edict forbade their baptism, 
 and the mission was disbanded. The Scottish mission in Russian 
 Tartary was compelled to end its labors just as they were begin- 
 ning to be productive. The missionaries of the Basle society were 
 ordered to quit the Russian empire in 1833. And in 184:1, the 
 mission of the London Society in Siberia was suppressed by an 
 order from the Russian Synod, under the plea “ that the mission, 
 in relation to that form of Christianity already established in the 
 Russian empire, did not coincide with the views of the church 
 and government.” It would not be diflScult, moreover, to show, 
 that while Russia rejects all ameliorating religious influences from 
 without, the exercise of its own power degrades the moral and 
 religious condition of every province that it touches. 
 
 On the other hand, it can be shown “ that the Turks have for 
 
XU 
 
 Introduction. 
 
 many years been in reality — no matter under what compulsion^ 
 no matter from what motives — the protectors of nearly all the 
 genuine Christianity that exists in Eastern Europe and in Western 
 Asia, while Russia is slowly, surely, terribly, moving down to de- 
 stroy, as the frozen mass of a glacier makes its way, year by year, 
 to overwhelm the homesteads of the valley.” In more than fifty 
 towns and villages of Turkey there are Protestant congregations, 
 many of them composed of seceders from the Greek church. 'A 
 correspondent of the London Christian Times gives the following 
 comparative statistics : 
 
 Number of Protestant clergymen in Constantinople 
 
 and its suburbs in 
 
 Ditto ditto 
 
 Number of Protestant sermons preached on every 
 Sabbath in different languages, in ditto 
 Ditto ditto 
 
 Number of Protestant schools in ditto 
 
 Ditto ditto 
 
 1830 — 0 
 1854 — 19 
 
 1830 — 0 
 1854 — 26 
 1830 — 0 
 1854 — 14 
 
 These statistics refer to Constantinople and its immediate en- 
 virons alone. In the entire empire (including Constantinople) 
 there are now sixty-five Protestant preachers. Did Nicholas 
 reign instead of the Sultan, there would not be one. The facts of 
 the case fully justify the strong remark made by Lord Shaftesbury 
 (in the speech before referred to), that “ Turkey had done every- 
 thing to advance, and Russia everything to prevent the progress 
 of Christianity among the millions of mankind.” The Turkish 
 system allows free scope to Christian missionaries, whether Pro- 
 testant or Catholic, to carry on their operations by preaching, 
 teaching, printing or circulating the Scriptures. There are presses 
 at Constantinople, Bi»harest, aud elsewhere, at which the Bible 
 is printed in almost every Oriental tongue, including the Turkish. 
 “ There are forty depots for the sale of the Bible in Turkey, and 
 at this moment there are colporteurs and native agents engaged 
 in every province.” 
 
 Let Turkey succumb in the approaching conflict, and Russia 
 
Introduction. 
 
 xm 
 
 obtain the power she seeks, and all this will be chpged. The 
 Muscovite S 3 ’stem of absolute exclusion will prevail, and all Pro- 
 testant missions must come to an end. The war, even at this 
 early period, has benefited the Protestant missions, and its suc- 
 cessful prosecution on the part of Turkey will be accompanied by 
 still further concessions to his Christian subjects. Islamism, as 
 such, is of course opposed to such concessions ; but the advances 
 of Turkey for the last twenty years have all been made at the ex- 
 pense of Islamism. The defeat of Russia will secure to the Chris- 
 tian population of Turkey a more independent position and a 
 higher influence than they have ever yet enjoyed. “ They have 
 long been obtaining concessions of civil liberty. Their religious 
 liberties are secure. The great oflScials of the empire help them 
 to build their churches. One stigma after another has been re- 
 moved. They are rising in the social scale ; and it is to be hoped 
 that when they have attained that true equality which is now 
 fairly in view, they will not forget that there was a time when 
 the shelter of the Ottoman Empire was sought by Christians un- 
 der Christian persecution, by Jews, and by all who were driven 
 from Christian lands for liberty of thought, religious or political.” 
 In view of all these facts, Christians — and most of all, Protestant 
 Christians — owe their sympathy and their prayers to Turkey, 
 England and France, in the present war. 
 
 The views expressed by Dr. Olin with regard to the new Greek 
 kingdom in the following pages, evince his keen political discrim- 
 ination and foresight. Thirty years ago English and French 
 fleets blindly fought the battle of Russia against the Turk. Aptly 
 does Dr. Olin ask (p. 252), What good has been done by the 
 battle of Navarino ? Greece, too weak to be independent, and 
 too corrupt and ignorant for freedom and self-government, has 
 become virtually a province of Russia, under a stupid king, 
 whose rule is decidedly more oppressive than that of the Turk.” 
 
 One word may be proper as to the pecuniary results of the 
 present publication. The Wesleyan University, at Middletown, 
 Conn., of which Dr. Olin was President, lay very near his heart. 
 In his will he made provision that, in case he should leave no 
 
 > 
 
XIV 
 
 Introductiok. 
 
 children, the copyright of liis “ Travels in the' East” should be 
 given to the University; and moreover, that on the death of 
 Mrs. Olin^ and in default of children to inherit, the whole of his 
 property should fall to the University. His wife and son survive 
 him — and long may they remain — but the present volume is dedi- 
 cated, in the spirit of his last "will, to the object he so dearly 
 cherished. The whole jproJiU of the hooh will accrue to theWea- 
 ley an University^ to whoso Trustees the copyright has been as- 
 signed* 
 
 J. M‘OLINTOCK. 
 
 April 27, 1864. 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 PA9K 
 
 Corfu— Albanian shores— Bay and town of Patras— Island of Zante— Harbor of 
 Argostoli— Wind and rain— Want of cleanliness— A comparison— Roar of the 
 sea — Fine view of Argostoli — Enchanting scenes 13 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 V 
 
 Tedious delays— Citadel of Navarino — The modern town— Violation of interna- 
 tional law— Fortress of Modon— Bare and rocky islands — Bay of Coron, the an- 
 cient bay of Messina — Cape Matapan — Sterile coast — Fair wind and a smooth 
 sea— Hydra — A city of granite and marble— Refuge from Turkish oppression — 
 
 The Hydriots, their gallantry and successes 29 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Bay of Egma, compared with the Bay of Naples— Distant view of the Acropolis 
 — First impressions of Athens— Position of the Athenian forum favorable to 
 high displays of oratory — Pulpit of Demosthenes— Paul on Mars’ Hill — The 
 academy of Plato 36 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 The Tbeseion- Pentelic marble— Remains of an ancient temple — Massive wall 
 of the ancient Agora — Tower of the Winds— Remains of a Clepsydra— Lantern 
 of Demosthenes— Street of the Tripods — Curious sun-dial — Theatre of Bacchus 
 — Noble site— Odeon of Regilla— Temple of Jupiter Olympius— Aerial habita- 
 tion — Magnificent columns — The Ilissus— The Stadium— Contests of gladiators 
 — The Lyceum — No vestiges of classic groves, or structures dedicated to serene 
 meditation r 42 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 The Acropolis— The Propylea— Magnificent colonnade — Sculptured frieze — Elgin 
 marbles— Lord Elgin, the spoiler of the noblest monuments of geniua— The 
 
XVI 
 
 Contents 
 
 FAQE 
 
 Parthenon, the crown of the Acropolis— The Erccklheion— Ionic style— Cary- 
 atides— Temple of the Wingless Victory- The Museus — The Pnyx— Cyclopian 
 architecture— Pulpit of Demosthenes 53 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Walls of the Acropolis— Cyclopian wall— Wall built in troublous times— History 
 written on the wall — Temple of the Eumenidos — Grotto of Pan — Interesling 
 fragments— Three hundred churches in Athens- Rude, grotesque structures — 
 Solitary fanes— The Long walls 59 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Population of Athens— Streets and dwellings— Built on a portion of the ancient 
 city— Reasons for and against making Athens the capital of Greece — Rapid 
 growth of the city— Parade of business— Coffee-houses— Saints’ days 66 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 The Greek Church— Support of the clergy— The priests badly educated— Destitute 
 of influence,— their preaching,— coslume—Public morals— Vices born of op- 
 pression and servitude— Education— University of Otho— Number of schools in 
 Greece— Mrs. Hill’s school in Athens— The Bible the book of the schools of 
 Greecc—Missionarios— Preaching the gospel entitled to the first place among 
 the agencies for the salvation of heathen as well as Christian nations 72 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 A government and a liberal party in Greece— Blunders and oppressions of the 
 Regency — The young Otho- Mistaken policy— Oppressive taxation— Despotic 
 government— Act of lawless oppression- A degraded people— Dismissal of the 
 Bavarians— The King thrown on his own resources — Splendor of his palace. . 80 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Great expense of the army— Extreme poverty of the country— Cultivation of the 
 land— Sale of the public lands- No forest trees— Dry beds of rivers and streams 
 — Domestic and economic habits of the people— Want of capital — Bank on 
 English cai)ilal— Shallow artifice 88 
 
Contents 
 
 xvu 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Departure from the Pii-aeus— Heavy gale— Night in a coffee-house— Group of sleep- 
 ers— Rocky soil— Aerial town— Magnificent view — Temple of Jupiter Panhelle- 
 nius— Venerable ruin— Precious remains of antiquity— Diminutive size of an- 
 cient temples 100 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Ancient Epidaurus— Slight remains of a powerful and opulent city — The modern 
 town— Primitive plough,— probably the same used in the days of Homer — 
 Adoption of the Frank dress— An upper room — Grotesque cortege— Precipitous 
 paths— Grove of Esculapius— Ancient theatre— Stadium— Remains of ancient 
 baths 110 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Peasants cutting w’ood — Shepherds and their flocks— Napoli— An unhealthy city 
 —The Palymede — A fortress-prison, — the commandant— Fine pieces of ord- 
 
 » nance — Fortification constructed by Venetians and Turks— The bastions— Im- 
 pregnable fortress— Oriental entertainment— Dishonest publican — Only good 
 road between Macedonia and Cape Matapan 118 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Fertile plain of Argos— Ancient city of Tyrius — Reasons controlling the selection 
 of the sites of ancient cities — Gateways — Huge stones, — work ascribed to giants 
 —Ruins of Mycenae — Great antiquity — Cyclopian remains — Tomb of Aga- 
 memnon— Gate of lions— The citadel— Walls of the citadel— “ The void place” 
 —Illustrations of prophetic language— Remote antiquity 125 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Argos, — market-day — Source of the power of the ancient Greeks— Journey in the 
 rain— Dervenaki,— the Thermopylae of the late Greek Revolution— Vale of 
 Nemea— Remains of the temple of the Nemean Jupiter— Difllcult paths and 
 sagacious horses — Immense sand-hills — Corinth — Fragment of a temple of Nep- 
 tuue— Hospitality of the governor 137 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 Isthmus of Corinth— Proposed canal— Reasons of its failure— The advantages it 
 would afford— Kind attentions from the governor of Corinth— The Ravarian 
 regency- Municipal system— Coast of the Gulf of Lepanto— Scala 144 
 
xviii Contents. 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 Pag* 
 
 Lovely View— Krisso— Ferlile valley— Sarcophagi— Delphi — Fountain of Castaiia 
 —Sacred rocks— narrow chasm 151 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 Ancient gymnasium— Modem use of ancient treasures— The Stadium— Valley of 
 Delphi — Ancient dreams, and modem realities— Ancient cemetery — Terraced 
 vineyards— Village of A rracaba— Remote position— Visit to a Greek family,— 
 style of building,— comfortless mode of living 158 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 Desolate region— Llvadia — Scene of savage grandeur— Fountains of memory 
 and oblivion- Chamber in the rock 167 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 Great fertile plain— Site of the ancient Cheronea— Leuctra — Interesting remains 
 —Khan of Leuctra,— wild ducks — Platea— Fertility of celebrated battle-fields— 
 Gallantry of the Plateaus 173 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 Public Domain— Thebes,— peculiarity of its site, —no splendid remains,— accumu- 
 lations of mbbish— Successive masters of Greece— Modem Thebes,— st/ength 
 as a military position- Memorable night 178 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 Magmflcent plain-Cattle and sheep of Greece— The feathered race— Halt at 
 noon-day— Uncourt eous treatment— Dining in public — View of the island of 
 Negropont— Mountain scenery- Parnassus and Helicon— Transparent atmos- 
 phere— God’s works all c/can— Oropo— Advantage of an honorary title 184 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 The Greek like the North American Indian— Aspect and dress of the peasantry — 
 Rocky road— Plain of Marathon — Noble area- Rude monuments — Theatres of 
 great battles — Boyish imaginations — The battle of Marathon, a conflict be- 
 tween light and darkness— Mighty consequence of this conflict — Battle of 
 Cheronea- Greece, the civilizer of the world— Battles of Marathon and Chero- 
 nea, separate triumphs of the same principle — Evening meditations on the 
 field of Marathon 192 
 
Contents 
 
 XIX 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Summit of Mount Bourgaloue— P’xtensive view— Turk?, — veiled women— Circular 
 structure on a rock in the sea— Tomb of Sultan Ahmed — The Almeidan — 
 Obelisk — Spiral pillar of brass — Burnt column— Cistern of Bin-bir-derek S05 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 Long bridge over the Golden Horn— Jews’ quarter — Apparent wretchedness— 
 Greek quarter— Greek church— Oblique gate — Fountain— City walls— Gipsies 
 —Venerable bulwarks— Adrianople gate — Cannon gate— The seven towers — 
 Extensive cemeteries 213 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 Armenian quarter— Armenian women— Aqueduct of Valens— Hostility towards 
 Christians— Sarcophagus of Theodosia— Lunatic asylum — Brown bears— Turk- 
 ish veneration for the insane 220 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII. 
 
 Caf6s of the Solomynia— Curious pipes— Oriental repose— A Frank taking notes 
 —Exaggerated reports of opium eaters— Number and elegance of the coffee- 
 houses— Seraskier’s Tower— Noble view— Sitesof public edifices— Multitude of 
 mosques— War department— Signal for fires— Shops for vessels of brass 22G 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 
 The bazars— Bazar for the sale of shoes and slippers— Splendid bazar for the sale 
 of rich embroidery— Saddle bazar,— glittering wares— Armenian trader in furs 
 —Characteristics of Oriental traffic — Imposing spectacle— Dignity of the Turk- 
 ish merchant— Different bearing of the Jew — Armenian bazars — Exposure to 
 fire 233 
 
 CHAPTER XXIX. 
 
 Greek churches built by voluntary contributions— Burnt district — Frequency and 
 extent of conflagrations— Fearful scenes— Exhibition of selfishness and bigotry 
 “Slight structmes— Ready to be burned 240 
 
 CHAPTER XXX. 
 
 Beautiful Armenian church— IMonumental slabs used in its erection— Armenian 
 burying-grounds— Armenian and Turkish monuments— Simple memorials of 
 the dead— The resting-place of the dead a favorite resort for the living 245 
 
XX 
 
 Contents 
 
 CHAPTEll XXXI. 
 
 pAan 
 
 The Sultan’s navy-yard — Old ships of war— Question of the East — Political as- 
 pects— Strangers not readily admitted into the navy-yard— Mr. Rhodes, the 
 Sultan’s naval architect— Jealousy of Turkish oflicers— Oppression of the peas- 
 antry— New system of reform— Ruined palace of Constantine 250 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIL 
 
 Burning heat— Changes in the temperature— Howling Dervises— Shrill frantic 
 cries— Convulsive movements — A great Santon 258 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIII. 
 
 The Mussulman Sabbath— Unsuccessful effort at sight-seeing— Royal visit to a 
 mosque — A caique— Greek boatmen— Salutations to the Sultan— Martial inu- 
 sic- Exciting race— Sultan in the place of prayer— Expectant crowd— Royal 
 barges— Officers of State— The Sultan-Gorgeous spectacle 265 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIV. 
 
 The heavenly waters— Turkish soldiers— Young recruits— The military system of 
 Franco adopted in the Turkish army— Frank costume— Tlie fez, or rod cap— 
 Ample Oriental costume- Slow and measured pace — Dancing dervises— Ve- 
 locity of their whirl— The scarlet fleece 274 
 
 CHAPTER XXXV. 
 
 Boatmen of the Bosphorus— Fine steamboats built by Mr. Rhodes— Head of the 
 Golden Horn— Valley of Sweet Waters — Kiosk of the Sultan— Royal palaces 
 — Childish policy— Monument to the Sultan’s skill in archery — The enchanted 
 arrow— Armenian church at Haskra— Intolerance rebuked— Armenian school 
 — Mosque of Eyoub— Its peculiar sanctity— Sultan’s tomb— Turkish fashion of 
 endowing tombs— Turkish mode of fostering native talent 281 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVI. 
 
 Egyptian bazar— The slavc-market -Aspect and cheerfulness of the slaves— Po- 
 c\iliar features of OrienUU slavery — White slaves — Richly ornamented fire-anns 
 -Damascus blades-Magniflcent bazars 284 
 
Contents 
 
 XXI 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVII. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Seraglio point— Uncouth exhibition— Agitated sea— Gate of death— Secret exe- 
 cutions — Mute emissaries of death — Fishing houses — Illuminated fishing boats 
 —Columns in the wall 294 
 
 CHAPTER XXXYIIL 
 
 Establishment for printing calicoes— Region desolated by fire — Armenian quar- 
 ter— Perilous position — Turkish obstinacy— Desperation— Summary punish- 
 ment— Offensive accumulations 302 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIX. 
 
 Cost of a firman — St. Sophia — Grand central dome — Sublime expanse — Four im- 
 mense pillars— Spieridid antique columns — Beautiful mosaics — ^The mosque 
 a place of deposit for treasure 312 
 
 CHAPTER XL. 
 
 The Seraglio— Tragic court register— Site of the ancient Byzantium— Halls of au- 
 dience— Thick cypress grove — The keeper asleep— Column of Theodosius the 
 Great— Deep shade — Green houses — Festive halls— The treasury — Mint — 
 Worthless coins— The armory — Oriental repose trying to Frank impatience — 
 Brazen camp-kettles of the Janissaries — Desecration of an ancient church. — 
 Last day in Constantinople 317 
 
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GREECE AND THE GOLDEN HORN. 
 
 CHA-PTEli I. 
 
 THE IONIAN ISLANDS 
 
 CoEFiT is tlie first Greek town we have seen. It is 
 said to contain three thousand five hundred inhabit- 
 ants, and is situated upon the eastern side of the 
 island, opposite to Albania, from which it is about 
 two miles distant. Near the middle of the channel is 
 the small island of Yidi, consisting of a few acres of 
 rock, out of which has been excavated an impregnable 
 fortress, not yet entirely complete. This fortress quite 
 commands the channel, which is deep enough for ships 
 of the line on the Albanian side, as well as towards 
 Corfu. There are also strong forts in the city oppo- 
 site to Vida, and it appears hardly possible for an en- 
 emy to disturb^this stronghold of England, which, 
 along with Gibraltar and Malta, must secure to her 
 the dominion of the Mediterranean, so long at least as 
 she maintains her naval superiority. The bay, per- 
 fectly shut in by mountains, is of great extent and 
 depth of water, but is said to be exposed to winds 
 from the Albanian mountains. The entrance is by a 
 
14 
 
 Corfu. 
 
 narrow winding channel that seems to be quite blocked 
 up with mountains, Avhen you look back to it from the 
 cit}^ There was but little shipping in the harbor — 
 mostly small Greek vessels employed in the coasting 
 trade. The island of Corfu, seen at a distance, seems 
 only a mass of desolate mountains. It, however, con- 
 tains many fertile valleys, which produce olives in 
 great abundance. These constitute the agricultural 
 wealth of the island. Corn is imported from the Black 
 Sea by the government, and sold to the people at cost. 
 Vegetables, some vines, and lately potatoes, are the 
 other products. 
 
 The city of Corfu is built upon a point of land, just 
 opposite to Vida, and though not perfectly flat, is not, 
 with the exception of the citadel and the streets near 
 the governor’s palace, greatly elevated. The houses 
 built of stone or brick, and plastered and whitewashed, 
 have a neglected and decaying appearance. The 
 streets are very narrow, and, with a few exceptions, 
 the shops are small, poor, and dirty. Only a few of 
 the coarsest articles are exhibited for sale, and though 
 the streets are several of them crowded, there is but 
 little appearance of business. Multitudes of people 
 stood or sat idle, laughing, talking, or smoking. No- 
 thing could be more picturesque and un-European than 
 the whole scene. It was decidedly oriental, and the more 
 striking for being the first oriental town I had visited. 
 The flowing and various costumes of the Greeks, Turks, 
 and Albanians, were mingled in gay confusion. 
 
 With very few exceptions, all was marked with 
 the impress of squalid poverty. Tlie boatmen, who 
 
Corfu. 
 
 15 
 
 «eem to be active and expert, generally speak a lit- 
 tle English, as do many of the shop-keepers, several 
 of whom are, in fact, Englislimen. The aspect of the 
 people is decidedly Greek, and it is only here and 
 there that, with the exception of tke military, a man 
 is seen dressed in the European faskion. Corfu, whicli 
 is the key to the Adriatic and the Archipelago, may 
 be expected to increase in size and importance. The 
 expenditure of the army and for public works is a 
 source of prosperity. The fleets of England are often 
 here, and considerable trade is carried on with the 
 neighboring coast of Turkey. The High Commis- 
 sioner is said to have the prosperity of these islands 
 much at heart, and the native legislature, though by 
 no means an enlightened body, concur to a good de- 
 gree in his views. Good roads have been constructed, 
 a thing unknown in other parts of the Levant.* A 
 
 * A fearful hurricane burst on the island of Corfu on the night 
 of the 19th of February, 1853. The country was everywhere rav- 
 aged, and the most lamentable misfortune was occasioned. The 
 houses were agitated as if by an earthquake ; doors and windows 
 were torn from their fastenings and hurled through the air, and the 
 roofs of houses fell crashing into the streets. The town of Corfu 
 suffered severely. Several houses were blown down ; all the ships 
 at anchor suffered, while many were wrecked ; upwards of one hun- 
 dred trees on the Esplanade were uprooted, and a portion of the 
 walls supporting the land was demolished by the sea. One account 
 says that twenty-nine lives were lost in the environs, and another 
 eighty. One village is spoken of as entirely destroyed. A letter 
 dated the next day after the hurricane says ; 
 
 “ The magnificent forest of olive-trees, which was the pride and 
 wealth of Corfu, is entirely destroyed. The country is literally 
 sacked. The few trees which remain standing may be counted, but 
 
16 
 
 Corfu. 
 
 college, wliicli is well attended, has been endowed. 
 The professors were mostly educated in Italy, and 
 some of them are Italians. An Englishman was ap- 
 pointed to one of the chairs, but upon an alleged in- 
 terference with the religious prejudices of the country, 
 was compelled to retire, and a statute forbids the ap- 
 pointment of another. There is a growing attention 
 to common schools, which are also established by the 
 government. The land of the island is held in small 
 estates, which are valuable in proportion to their num- 
 ber of olive-trees. The Ionian islands pay annually 
 for the British connection, £36,000, beside maintain- 
 ing their own local institutions and improvements. 
 The governor receives £5,000 per annum. Inter- 
 course with the eastern part of Turkey is embarrassed 
 by a rigorous quarantine. 
 
 Upon leaving Corfu, the Albanian shores continue 
 bleak and mountainous, with scarcely an interruption, 
 for I should think more than a hundred miles. The 
 same is true of the island, though the mountains are 
 less lofty and abrupt. Ithica, which we passed before 5, 
 on the morning of the 21st of November, has a similar 
 appearance, as has Cephalonia, of which we had a more 
 distant though distinct view. These, with many 
 smaller islands, are masses of mountains apparently 
 
 it is impossible to reckon the thousands which are torn up and 
 broken to pieces, Is ever have I witnessed such a deplorably deso- 
 lating scene, of whose horrors description is impossible. All the 
 roads are blocked up by trunks of trees ; the country no longer has 
 the appearance of a land inhabited ; it has the aspect of a chaotio 
 overthrow.” — Ed. 
 
Patras. 
 
 17 
 
 consisting of many rocks and peaks of a gray askey 
 color, nearly destitute of verdure, and quite without 
 trees. Many of the valleys and some small plains have 
 great fertility, though but a thin soil. 
 
 We entered the bay .of Patras between 9 and 10 
 A. M. The shores on either hand are still bounded 
 by mountains of considerable height, and almost per- 
 fectly bare of verdure. Not a tree is to be seen, and 
 the eye rests upon boundless sterility. Nearer Patras 
 the hills recede a half a mile from the beach, and a 
 strip of level ground, apparently fertile, stretches 
 along the coast for several miles. Back of this narrow 
 plain, the elevation is less than elsewhere, and ap- 
 peared to be planted with olive-trees. The town is 
 built close to the water, extending back to the foot of 
 a high hill which is surmounted by a citadel that quite 
 overlooks the town, and, though constructed with 
 little solidity, might resist a sudden incursion of undis- ‘ 
 ciplined foes. It is not kept in repair, nor has it any 
 garrison at present. 
 
 The town is entirely new, and with the exception 
 of five or six houses, is built in the most shght, 
 wretched manner. The walls are, many of them, of 
 bricks dried in the sun — some of small shapeless 
 stones, laid in mud. A large majority are mere 
 cabins of the worst possible kind, not more than four 
 or five feet high, without floors, filthy and without 
 furniture. The people, who seemed all to be iu the 
 street, or in the front of their open sliops, were, with 
 few exceptions, meanly dressed in the coarsest clothes, 
 many of them dirty, ragged, without stockings, and 
 
18 
 
 Shores of Z ante. 
 
 slipshod. Still their costume was picturesque. Con- 
 siderable quantities of cheap coarse goods were dis- 
 played in the shops, and the market was well supplied 
 with vegetables, chiefly cabbages and onions. We 
 saw no antiquities at Patras, though ruins of a temple 
 of Ceres are said to exist there. It has been the site 
 of a city for several thousand years, has a favorable 
 situation for trade near the entrance of the Gulf of 
 Corinth, and there is said to be a fertile country in the 
 vicinity, though it was hid from our view by the 
 mountains. I heard that there are four or five Eng- 
 lish merchants resident here, who carry on a direct 
 trade with Great Britain. The few ships in the harbor 
 were of small dimensions, and, with the exception of 
 two brigs, not fit for any but coasting voyages. The 
 population is variously reported at from five thousand 
 to eight or ten thousand. It gives one but a sad idea 
 of the progress of this new kingdom, to be told that 
 Patras is one of its three most important and commer- 
 cial towns. 
 
 November 21st. The boat was detained here till 
 near midnight, taking in coal, which is deposited here 
 for the supply of the Austrian line of steamers. The 
 night was dark and rainy, and the sea very boisterous. 
 At sunrise we had not advanced in our voyage above 
 twenty -five or thirty miles, and upon going on deck 
 I found the boat struggling against a powerful head- 
 wind, just off the shores of Zante. The violence of 
 the wind continued to increase for three hours more, 
 till, our vessel becoming quite unable to make head 
 against it, the captain, with the entire approbation of 
 
Z ANTE. 
 
 19 
 
 the passengers, wbo were mostly becoming sicK:, re- 
 solved to seek tlie nearest port, and for this purpose 
 turned directly back for the harbor of Zante. 
 
 The island, as we coasted along the shore at the dis- 
 tance of not more than half a mile, appeared — though, 
 like all the islands and coasts of Greece, composed of 
 mountains — to be much less elevated and precipit- 
 ous than those we had previously seen. The hills 
 were verdant with olive-yards. White cottages con- 
 trasted beautifully with the evergreen foliage. Every- 
 thing bore the appearance of culture and civilization, 
 and the whole scene, aided no doubt by the bare and 
 desolate regions at which we had for some time been 
 looking, had an aspect of signal and picturesque 
 beauty. In a little more than an hour, we came in 
 view of the city, and congratulated ourselves upon the 
 unexpected opportunity of visiting the loveliest place 
 we had yet seen in Greece. 
 
 Several of our company were forming a party to 
 visit the Opera, which is said to be good, not doubting 
 but the friendly storm would continue for at least 
 twenty-four hours. These anticipations of pleasure 
 were soon disappointed. The harbor, which is a mere 
 roadstead, quite unsheltered on the side of the sea, 
 was in great agitation. There was no safe anchorage, 
 and it would have been quite impossible to reach the 
 land in a small boat. It was soon announced that we 
 were to proceed about thirty miles more in our retro- 
 grade course, to seek shelter in the more secure port of 
 Cephalonia. We passed very near to the town, and 
 had a good view of its beautiful site and environs. 
 
20 
 
 Z A N T E. 
 
 The city of Zante is built upon the edge of the sea, 
 mostly upon a level area; but partly upon rising 
 ground at the base of the hill, or rather mountain, 
 by which it is bounded on the land side. This gives 
 to it a showy, amphitheatrical appearance. Viewed 
 from the sea, it seems to occupy the whole open space 
 upon the beach, and to extend back a considerable dis- 
 tance along a gorge of the mountain, which allowed us 
 to see, above the tops of the houses, an extensive re- 
 gion of high hills and rugged cliffs — an imposing, wild 
 background to this beautiful place. The loftiest pin- 
 nacle of the mountain is occupied by the citadel, which 
 must command perfectly, not only the city, but all ap- 
 proach to it at least by sea. To the left of the town 
 are seen several sugar-loaf hills, covered to the top 
 with luxuriant olive trees. On the right, the moun- 
 tain declines a little into a high table-land, clothed 
 likewise with a noble forest of the same beautiful ever- 
 green, extending as far as the eye could reach. It is a 
 large town of apparently two or three thousand inhab- 
 itants, commercial, wealthy, and prosperous — a con- 
 trast to nearly everything in this blighted region. 
 
 A company of Germans left us at Patras to proceed 
 by land to Athens, by the way of Corinth, Thebes, 
 and Delphi. There being no roads in this country, 
 they of course travel on horseback. For this I was 
 previously prepared, but no report of travellers had 
 made me understand that it was necessary to have an 
 escort of armed soldiers in every part of Greece, but 
 such it seems is the fact. This company, I believe 
 eight in number, were well armed with double-barrel- 
 
IIarbor of Argostoli. 21 
 
 led guns and swords. They were advised by their con- 
 sul at Patras, that it would be unsafe to proceed with- 
 out the additional security of a guard of soldiers. 
 This is regarded as quite indispensable in journeying 
 in the interior. 
 
 November 22d. We anchored last evening, at five, 
 in the harbor of Argostoli, having been tossed about 
 by a violent tempest for six or eight hours. The en- 
 gines of the boat, two of fifty horse-power each, are 
 quite unequal to such a time. The boat, with the as- 
 sistance of a sail, was nearly unmanageable. About 
 three in the afternoon, our danger of being thrown upon 
 a rocky and preci|)itous shore was imminent. The 
 capt .in was manifestly alarmed. The old sailors gath- 
 ered round him with their advice, and altogether it 
 was a time of anxiety to the -passengers. These men 
 seem not to possess the skill and courage of our Amer- 
 ican sailors. There is a familiarity between the cap- 
 tain and the sailors which is little favorable to discip- 
 line, and it is altogether impossible to feel the same 
 confidence that is inspired by a higher degree of 
 dignity and decision. We were all glad to anchor 
 in the well-sheltered harbor of Argostoli, and I hope 
 some were thankful for their escape from imminent 
 peril. The harbor is formed by an arm of the sea, 
 which, for several miles, has the appearance of a 
 river from a mile to a quarter of a mile wide, which 
 seems to terminate a little above Argostoli, where it is 
 crossed by a low bridge of wood. It is perfectly shel- 
 tered by the hills that rise like an amphitheatre in all 
 directions. 
 
22 
 
 Wind and Eain. 
 
 Here we are at anclior, witli little prospect of sailing 
 again at least for a day or two. The sky is alternately 
 black witli angry clouds, and bright with a most bril- 
 liant sun. At intervals of every half-hour our deck 
 is inundated by violent showers of rain. Gusts of wind 
 from different points of the compass rush down upon 
 us from the mountains, with great though transient 
 violence. But for these clear indications of the bad 
 weather which prevails at sea, it might not be easy to 
 keep our patience or even good-temper in exercise. 
 
 We were to have been in Athens to-day. So far 
 from this, we are forty miles farther from that desired 
 goal than we were two days since, and we must sail near- 
 ly four hundred miles along a bad coast, must double 
 Cape Matapan, must in all probability be tossed three 
 days and nights more before our arrival in this city — 
 a city which contains, it is said, the only good hotels 
 in Greece. 
 
 To render this delay the less tolerable, to say no- 
 thing of our anxiety to see a city of so many attrac- 
 tions for the curious and classical traveller, we are sub- 
 ject to want and inconvenience of a grosser sort. Our 
 fare on board the boat, bad from the first, is now much 
 deteriorated. Towels, napkins, table-linen, are all 
 thoroughly soiled, with, I fear, no hope of a fresh sup- 
 pl}^' The little attention which was paid to cleanli- 
 ness at the beginning of the voyage has quite subsid- 
 ed, and our table utensils, cabin, and every article of 
 food, seem to vie with our Italian stewards and their 
 apparel in disgusting filth. These people seem to think 
 that cleanliness is no longer of any importance after 
 
Want of Cleanliness. 
 
 23 
 
 fheir passengers are well on board and the anchor is 
 weighed. The same thing is observable in the hotels 
 of Germany and some parts of Italy. An apartment 
 is put in such a state as not to disgust a traveller at 
 first sight ; but after he has once taken possession, 
 everything is neglected. The floor is not swept, the 
 bed-linen is seldom changed, snuffers, candlesticks, 
 tumblers, are left in statu quo. 
 
 One hardly knows whom to reproach with the bad 
 management and filth with which we are now afflicted 
 — I mean what people. The boat is Austrian, the' 
 master an Ionian Greek, I believe, from Cephalonia, 
 the crew is Dalmatian and Greek, the gens de service 
 Italian and Greek. From the observations I have 
 been able to make, no injustice would be done by 
 charging all these races with a great deficiency in the 
 virtue — it has been called, and I am not now at least 
 inclined to detract from its dignity — in the virtue of 
 cleanliness. In passing from Ilolland into Hanover, 
 the grievous contrast in this respect is the first thing 
 that strikes the traveller. ‘In Prussia one at first is 
 less disgusted with dirty habits. A more intimate ac- 
 quaintance with the people, for whieh he need not go 
 beyond the best hotels in Berlin or Potsdam, does not 
 fail to remove any favorable impressions which he may 
 have too hastily received. Leipzig, Dresden, Prague, 
 Vienna, much more the provincial towns, merit the 
 same reproach, — some of them even to a much higher 
 degree than Northern Germany. Trieste one hardly 
 knows whether to consider an Austrian or an Italian 
 city. The streets, like those of Vienna and Dresden, 
 
24 
 
 A Comparison. 
 
 are well enougli, but the interior of the hotel soon ad- 
 monishes the voyageur that he has little to hope for on 
 the score of cleanliness from this blending of German 
 and Italian habits. 
 
 The Dutch are certainly entitled to be considered 
 the most cleanly people proper in the world. It is a 
 perfect monomania with them — a perpetual annoyance 
 to all who are so unlucky as to come within reach of 
 the pumps and scrubbing-brushes. The Enghsh are 
 perhaps before the French in this respect, though I 
 could not say that their hotels are better kept generally 
 than those of the same grade on the opposite side of 
 the channel. In their farm-houses and cottages, this 
 claim is much better supported. . The French, how- 
 ever this question may be decided between them and 
 their insular neighbors and rivals, are indisputably 
 before the Italians in this mark of advanced civiliza- 
 tion. In comparing the Italians with the Germans, it 
 may be said, I think, that the latter are more attentive 
 to out-door cleanliness. Their streets are swept and 
 kept with greater care. The eye is seldom offended 
 with the disgusting exhibitions which in Italy, and 
 too often in France, are sure to meet you the moment 
 you walk over the threshold of the hotel. But in the 
 more important matters of clean beds, clean tables and 
 table furniture, and all the et cetera of the interior 
 economy of a lodging-house — taking my own experi- 
 ence as a guide — a decided preference must be given 
 to the Italians.' These discussions upon the borders 
 of Greece, do not bespeak a very lofty and absorbing 
 classic enthusiasm. Our circumstances just now arc 
 
Argostoli. 
 
 25 
 
 not very favorable to high imaginings. Tlie animal 
 nature of man has its claims, and is sometimes fairly 
 entitled to assuage its griefs by uttering complaints. 
 Another day will be more favorable to the dominion 
 of classical meditations, and will make oblivion of 
 sensual grievances more easy. 
 
 Nov. 23d. At 9 A. m. we are still in the harbor of 
 Argostoli, with the wind in the unfavorable quarter, 
 (the south,) and the clouds still threatening — at least 
 so it seems to my unpractised eye. The force and 
 fury of the elements have, however, partially subsided, 
 and ships are busy in getting up the steam and making 
 other preparations for again attempting the passage to 
 Athens. Though we are quiet enough in this shel- 
 tered harbor, the sea is very far from being calm, as is 
 manifest from the perpetual roaring of the waves, 
 whose mighty voice, as they dash against the shore 
 several miles from us, and separated by a high pro- 
 montory, is perfectly audible. In the stillness of the 
 morning at day-break, it Was almost terrific. I doubt 
 much whether we shall be able to proceed to sea. I 
 think the captain does not expect it, but feels bound 
 to make the trial, to guard himself against blame with 
 the company at Trieste. 
 
 We have not been allowed to land at Argostoli, 
 though we have been for forty hours within a quarter 
 of a mile of the shore. We have, however, obtained 
 some supplies of provisions and fuel. In despair of 
 carrying us through upon the first courses, the steward 
 has at last given a change of napkins and towels, and 
 we are upon the whole in circumstances a little more 
 
 2 
 
Argostoli. 
 
 26 ' 
 
 favorable for passing a day or two longer at sea witb 
 some tolerable comfort. 
 
 We have from the deck a very fin© view of Argos- 
 toli and its environs. Its situation favors this view 
 greatly. Like the other towns which we have seen in 
 Greece, — Corfu, Patras, and Zante,— it is built upon the 
 beach, and extends back along the base and side of 
 the mountain, which, verdant with the evergreen 
 olive, forms a striking, picturesque, and lovely back- 
 ground, seen high above the houses, and stretching 
 away till it is lost in the distance or in the clouds. 
 This is a peculiarity belonging to the cities upon the > 
 Mediterranean, to which there is nothing similar in 
 America, or, as far as I have had opportunity of ob- 
 serving, in the more northern parts of Europe. There, 
 as in the United States, the shore, though sometimes 
 sufficiently elevated, is generally flat, and the city is 
 upon the same level with the surrounding country. 
 Dover, and some other less important places, may be re- 
 garded as exceptions to this remark ; still even they have ' 
 none of that surpassing beauty of position that belongs 
 to these Grecian towns. The noble amphitheatre of 
 hills and mountains, rising one above another, as far 
 as the eye can reach, is wanting. So also is the green 
 foliage of the olive and the orange, embosoming lovely 
 villas often to the very summit of the mountain. The 
 whole scene of enchantment is often crowned with ex- 
 tensive monastic establishments and churches which 
 occupy the pinnacles of the mountains. These edi- 
 fices, as well as the country-houses and cottages that 
 occupy the declivities below, are kept perfectly white, 
 
Enchanting Scenes. 27 
 
 and seen in a clear day and by the rising or setting 
 sun, are dazzling. 
 
 This very imperfect description applies to all the 
 towns we have yet seen in Greece, as well as to 'most 
 of the maritime cities of Italy and the south of France. 
 Nearly the whole shore of these seas is a wall of moun- 
 tains rising abruptly out of the water, without leaving 
 space even for a road. Occasionally in some quiet 
 bay an alluvial plain of small extent has been formed 
 at their base by marine deposits. The declivities in 
 such situations are usually more gentle than elsewhere ; 
 and the city built, the commercial part of it upon 
 the narrow plain of the shore, and the residences of 
 the more opulent and tasteful upon the ascent above, 
 with the cottages, groves, villas, and churches, which 
 always constitute the back-ground, is always beautiful 
 when beheld from the sea, or from some of the heights 
 in its neighborhood, though upon a closer inspection 
 of the interior, one may find little or nothing that 
 seems fitted to contribute to the agreeable impression 
 produced by the whole. The narrow streets, the 
 wretched hovels, the paltry shops and merchandise, 
 and, above all, the filthy, ill-clad, and wretched multi- 
 tude that throng the public squares, seldom fail to dis- 
 sipate whatever illusion may have been produced by 
 the goodly and gorgeous tout'ensemhle which was seen 
 at a distance. 
 
 Not having been allowed to take this nearer view 
 of Argostoli, we shall leave its neighborhood with very 
 agreeable impressions. It has the appearance of being 
 well built, and of being kept in good repair. The 
 
28 
 
 Argostoli. 
 
 number of vessels in the port, certainly more than a 
 hundred, of all sizes, though generally small, indicates 
 an active commerce, at least with near neighbors. 
 The land appears to be more susceptible of culture 
 here, and to be better tilled than the other regions 
 equally mountainous which we have observed. The 
 rugged sides of these mountains are covered with a 
 thin soil. Some ploughed fields, said to be sown in 
 barley, are visible upon the more level parts. The 
 olive, which seems to thrive best in the worst soils, 
 occupies the more bare and rocky portions ; and, above 
 all, the Corinthian currant, the chief product of this 
 and the other Ionian islands, as well as of the Morea, 
 is extensively cultivated. 
 
1 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 FROM ZANTE TO HYDRA. 
 
 November 24th. We set sail this morning at ten, 
 the wind still adverse but less violent. Our progress 
 was very slow, scarcely three miles an hour — ^the sea, 
 though not unnavigable, was much agitated, and our 
 passage excessively uncomfortable. It was after dark 
 before we passed the harbor and town of Zante, and 
 ten o’clock when we reached that part of the coast of 
 the island from which we turned back on Friday. 
 Our course had been hitherto partially sheltered from 
 the violence of the wind by these islands, and much 
 anxiety was felt lest upon entering the open sea, we 
 might again find ourselves unable to proceed, and so 
 be coinpelled to retrace our laborious and disagreeable 
 course to Argostoli — the only harbor during the prev- 
 alence of the Sirocco. 
 
 We were happy to find that the boat was still able 
 to proceed, though slowly. This would have been 
 quite impossible had not the wind declined, as it did 
 perceptibly, a little before we passed the last headland 
 of Zante. We retired to rest with a good hope of 
 being able in the course of a few days at least, to reach 
 the port for which we were embarked. The time had 
 
30 
 
 Navarino. 
 
 already elapsed by one day, when we had at first ex- 
 pected to be released from the discomforts of our sea- 
 faring life. The delay has been attended with one 
 advantage. We have seen much more of the Ionian 
 islands than falls to the lot of travellers who are so 
 fortunate as to meet with fair weather and a smooth 
 sea. 
 
 Nov. 25th. I arose this morning and went upon 
 deck at half-past four, as we were told we might ex- 
 pect to see Navarino before day -light. This sluggish 
 boat, however, is sure to disappoint the most reasonable 
 and moderate expectations. It was nine o’clock before 
 we came in sight of Navarino Yecchio, and this was 
 several miles short of the modern town. The citadel, 
 the only remains of the ancient city visible to us, occu- 
 pies the top of a lofty hill, at whose base the town and 
 harbor are situated. It is a conspicuous and noble 
 object, as seen from the sea. It perfectly commands 
 the town and all approaches to it by sea, but is said 
 to be itself commanded by higher elevations within 
 cannon shot. It is in ruins, as well as the town, of 
 which not a house remains. A few cottages on the 
 beach, at no great distance, were indistinctly visible, 
 and had, like everything seen on continental Greece, a 
 wretched appearance. 
 
 The island of Sphacteria extends from near Navarino 
 Vecchio, I should think, three or four miles south- 
 ward. It is a moderately elevated ridge of land, quite 
 overlooked by the mountains on the main-land, be- 
 tween which and the island lies the bay of Navarino, 
 where the Turkish fleet was destroyed by the allies. 
 
M O D O N. 
 
 31 
 
 The entrance into the bay is around the south end of 
 the island, between some high rocks rising abruptly 
 out of the sea. 
 
 The citadel of Navarino is ujx)n the main-land, over- 
 looking and apparently capable of commanding per- 
 fectly this inlet into the harbor. The depth of water 
 is so great, that large fleets of ships of the line passed 
 the strait without difficulty, and made this fine bay, 
 which is six miles in circumference, the bloody theatre 
 upon which the long-protracted struggle for the inde- 
 pendence of Greece was finally decided. Whether the 
 great powers who interfered so unceremoniously in the 
 affairs of the Ottoman Empire now approve of the 
 policy pursued, is at least questionable. That it was 
 unjust towards Turkey — a flagrant violation of inter- 
 national law — few of the writers of the present day 
 hesitate to declare. It violated the sovereignty and 
 broke the spirit of a nation which is now regarded as a 
 great bulwark against the ambition of Eussia. It re- 
 mains to be seen whether the degenerate race in whose 
 behalf this sacrifice of blood, and still more deplorable 
 sacrifice of principle, was made, is destined to make 
 some atonement to humanity for the crime upon which 
 its independence was built, by assuming a worthy and 
 honorable place amongst civilized and Christian na- 
 tions. 
 
 The next object of interest on this coast, and about 
 six miles distant from Navarino, is Modon, — a fortress 
 built upon a point of land projecting into the sea. 
 This is regarded as the strongest place in Greece, and 
 is kept in repair, and garrisoned by a considerable 
 
32 
 
 Bay of Coron. 
 
 body of Greek troops. The town, as usual, consists of 
 some ten or twelve hovels, at no great distance from 
 the walls. Opposite Modon is the bare and rocky 
 island of Sapienza, which extends several miles south 
 ward, — forming a sound, one or two miles broad 
 Near this is the smaller isle of St. Marie, and at a little 
 distance farther south is Cabrera, — more forbidding 
 and desolate in its appearance than the other two, and 
 apparently nearly as extensive as Sapienza. The 
 channel between these islands and the main-land is 
 sheltered from most winds, and may be, I should 
 think, good anchorage. It is exposed, however, to the 
 Sirocco. These islands are bare mountains, with only 
 here and there a thin soil. The mountains upon the 
 opposite coast are of the same description, — bare of 
 trees — of the color of ashes — more precipitous and 
 much more lofty. The whole region bids defiance to 
 culture. 
 
 Our passage by Cape Gallo, and across the bay of 
 Coron — the ancient bay of Messenia — was rough and 
 uncomfortable. The bay, measured from Cape Gallo 
 to Cape Matapan, may be twenty -five miles wide. It 
 is quite unsheltered, and the wind and the waves filled 
 it with agitation. Cape Matapan as the most southern 
 land of the continent of Europe, is a point of intense 
 interest, though it presents nothing remarkable to the 
 voyager. The coast maintains its character of cheer- 
 less sterility. It is here, as along the rest of our voy- 
 age, composed of high and bare rocks, without vegeta- 
 tion or a single tree. We passed in the night from 
 Cape Matapan to Cape St. Angelo, — more than thirty 
 
Bay of Nauplia. 
 
 88 
 
 miles across the bay of Kolokythia, the aneient bay 
 of Laconia ; so that I missed what I much desired to 
 see, Cerigo, the last of the Ionian islands. We passed 
 it about 1 A. M. ; and at daybreak, when I went upon 
 deck, we had doubled Cape St, Angelo, and were 
 steaming northward, with a fair wind and a smooth 
 sea. 
 
 Nov. 26th. T have seldom seen a more lovely day 
 than this. All the angry clouds which had covered 
 the sky since our departure from Corfu, and even 
 after the return of sunshine had lingered in the horizon 
 in a very suspicious manner, had disappeared. The 
 atmosphere was mild and soft — ^balmy would not be 
 an inapt epithet, — and the sky was bright and clear 
 beyond anything I had seen in Europe, out of Italy. 
 We sailed along the bay of Nauplia, the ancient Argos, 
 at the rate of eight miles the hour — wonderful speed 
 for an Austrian steam-boat. All the passengers were 
 now, for the first time, able to^ keep the deck, and the 
 whole scene was one of unmingled pleasure. • The 
 satisfaction of the present was heightened by contrast 
 with previous discomfort and peril, and by a lively 
 anticipation of what was before us. We were now 
 approaching the end of .our voyage, and the most in- 
 teresting portion of Greece was near us. Argos and 
 Mycence were at the head of the bay ; and just beyond 
 it, in full view, was Hydra, which has earned a repu- 
 tation worthy of the best days of Athens, by its devo- 
 tion and sacrifices in the cause of Grecian liberty. 
 We passed within four or five miles of Spezzia, but 
 saw nothing but sterile rocks. The town, which con- 
 
84 
 
 Hydra. 
 
 tains four thousand inhabitants, and has- some mari- 
 time prosperity, was hidden from us by an interesting 
 height. 
 
 We 2^assed near Hydra, and had a gopd view of the 
 island and the town. Nothing can be more cheerless 
 and absolutely forbidding than the whole aspect of 
 this place. It consists of a high mountain, absolutely 
 a bare rock, without a tree or shrub. Not a field nor a 
 garden cheers this desolate waste. It is said that there 
 is not upon the whole island enough earth to form a 
 grave. The harbor even, the only boon which nature 
 has conferred upon this doomed spot, is insecure, and, 
 to a great extent, artificial ; and in the days of their 
 commercial and maritime greatness, the Hydriots were 
 compelled, when certain winds j)revailed, to find a 
 shelter for their ships behind some rocky islands in 
 the neighborhood. 
 
 The only thing that recommended this spot was the 
 security it afibrded against Turkish oppression. Ani- 
 mated by a noble love of liberty, these brave men 
 built a city upon its rocky shore, that soon rose 
 to great commercial importance. They were all 
 merchants and mariners, and grew rich by the carry- 
 ing trade. They had, before the Kevolution, a city 
 built of granite and marble — a population of four 
 thousand — and four hundred ships. These, with all 
 their wealth, were consumed in the struggle, though 
 tlie town was never sacked, — secured by its position 
 from the common fate of Greece. The houses are now 
 mostly empty. Five thousand are all that remain of 
 this gallant people. They are no longer rich; they 
 
The Hydriots. 
 
 35 
 
 subsist barely by maritime enterprise, but their trade 
 has mostly disappeared. The Hydriot was the chief 
 instrument in securing Grecian independence. They 
 furnished the most distinguished naval commanders. 
 Their fire-ships were the terror of the Turkish fleet, 
 and their successes revived the spirit and hopes of the 
 people when depressed by disasters. 
 
 The remnant of the people deserve well of the na- 
 tion. Their city, with so few natural advantages, and 
 in the absence of the adventitious circumstances that 
 raised it to such a height of prosperity, is probably 
 destined to still further decline. The towns of conti- 
 nental Greece, with the advantages of better harbors 
 and of a back country susceptible of agricultural im- 
 provement, present superior attractions to emigrants 
 from abroad, and have even drawn a large majority of 
 the Hydriots from their barren rocks, to become 
 inhabitants of more favored regions. Many of them 
 are said to have taken up their residence in Syr a, 
 which possesses great commercial advantages. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 BAY OF EGINA. 
 
 Having passed Hydra and Cape Skyllo, wRicli is 
 nearly opposite to it upon the coast of the Morca, we 
 had a line view of the bay of Egina, its islands, and 
 the surrounding coast. I was quite unprepared to see 
 so noble a sheet of water. It is much more extensive 
 than the bay of Naples, being, I should think, not less 
 than sixty or seventy miles in compass. It wants, too, 
 tlie noble city, as well as the smaller towns that rise on 
 all sides of the latter, and make it the most enchanting 
 and magnificent locality in Europe, or probably in the 
 world. Yet if any part of the world is worthy to be 
 compared with this, it is the gulf of Egina, and I can- 
 not but think there are some features of striking re- 
 semblance, though my companions, to whom I pointed 
 out this likeness, could not discern it, or at least did 
 not feel it as vividly as I did. 
 
 To my view the promontory of Sunium and of Cape 
 Skyllo answered well to Sorento and the opposite 
 headland that form the entrance to the bay of Naples, 
 while the islands of St. George, Zea, and Hydra, are 
 similar enough in their situation and appearance to 
 Capri d’Ischia to constitute a very decided likeness to 
 
Bay of Egina. 
 
 37 
 
 the entrance of the bay of Naples, when seen from 
 within ; and then the lofty ridges of Hymettus, and 
 the other mountains which reach from Cape Sunium 
 to Athens, and those again that constitute the island 
 of Salamis and its magnificent background, as seen by 
 one approaching the Pirasus, form a scene of beauty 
 and even of impressive grandeur which lacks nothing 
 but Vesuvius, with its eternal cloud of smoke, to make 
 it equal to any other scene of loveliness and sublimity 
 upon which my eye has rested. 
 
 The Acropolis was in full view at least twenty -five 
 miles from the shore, and by the aid of telescopes we 
 were able, in this transparent atmosphere, to discern 
 the splendid temples and ruins that crown this classic 
 mount, and even to distinguish and determine accu- 
 rately the different objects, from their resemblance to 
 the engravings with which we were familiar. The 
 city, rising from its ruins, soon becomes visible, as did 
 the beautiful plain of Attica, which extends from the 
 sea to the city, and stretches away for many miles to 
 the north and the north-east, till it meets the lofty 
 mountains by which it is bounded. It was a glorious 
 view, and I have seldom been able to look upon a 
 scene so famous in the history of the world, with a 
 feeling so unmingled with disappointment — with a sat- 
 isfaction so perfectly sustained. 
 
 Nature, I could not but feel, has here prepared a 
 worthy theatre for the creations of genius and the 
 achievements of heroic patriotism. A more intimate 
 acquaintance with Athens, and a careful observation 
 of its topography, have fully sustained these first im- 
 
38 
 
 First View of Athens. 
 
 pressions. There is nowhere else such a multitude of 
 commanding positions. Every important edifice com* 
 manded some large, magnificent prospect. The site of 
 the greater part of the ancient as well as the modern 
 towns is sufficiently level, yet it comprehends several 
 lofty hills, rising abruptly or more gradually into 
 heights of various but considerable altitudes', overlook- 
 ing each other, the city and the plain of Attica, and 
 commanding all of them the most enchanting view of 
 the mountains, the gulf, and the archipelago, with sev- 
 eral of its islands. 
 
 The Acropolis rises precipitously near the centre of 
 the old city, to the height of, I should think, two hun- 
 dred feet. It of course overlooks all the other parts 
 of the town ; and the glorious structures with which it 
 is crowned are visible at great distances to those who 
 approach the city by sea or land. Mars Hill is only a 
 little less elevated, and commands on all sides, except 
 that towards the citadel, a view hardly less extensive 
 and delightful. The Pnyx, the hill upon which the 
 assemblies of the people met and consulted in the open 
 air, is nearly of the same height. The eye of the ora- 
 tor who spoke from the tribune looked down upon the 
 city which was spread out before him like a map. 
 The Acropolis, with all its splendid structures, was in 
 full view to the right. A little to the left, also in full 
 view, rose upon lower ground the temple of Theseus 
 the founder of the city, which, after a lapse of two 
 thousand four hundred years, is the most perfect and 
 complete structure that bears testimony to the genius 
 of the ancients. 
 
Pulpit of Demosthenes. 89 
 
 It is obvious tliat tlie position of tlie Athenian forum 
 was chosen for effect, and not accidentally. The tribune 
 from which the orator spoke, is said formerly to have 
 commanded a view of the ports of Salamis and the 
 whole gulf of Egina, as well as the range of magnificent 
 objects above enumerated. Themistocles was wont to 
 point to the fleets, and to the theatre of the naval glory 
 of his countrymen, in order to inspire them with addi- 
 tional attachment for the maritime service, which he 
 regarded as the means of warfare best suited to the 
 Athenians. 
 
 The Thirty Tyrants, by removing the Bema nearer 
 to the Agora, and a little farther down the hill, effect- 
 ually concealed those inspiring objects from the view 
 both of the speaker and the people. This was done in 
 order to repress the ardor of the people for high enter- 
 prises, and with this for freedom. About twenty or 
 thirty yards in the rear of the pulpit of Demosthenes 
 there are steps cut in the rock, and other appearances 
 to justify the opinion that that was the post of the ora- 
 tor before the days of the Tyrants. 
 
 From that spot, all the objects above enumerated — 
 maritime and inland — as well as the more distant moun - 
 tains which nature had reared up like walls for the 
 ornament and security of Attica, were in view of the 
 orator when he harangued the Athenians to resistance 
 and to daring enterprises. A situation more favorable 
 to high displays of oratory and to powerful effects, 
 certainly never existed ; and one is less surprised at the 
 superior efficiency of Athenian eloquence after stand- 
 ing upon the platform where Demosthenes pronounced 
 
40 
 
 Mars Hill. 
 
 Ins masterly harangues, and viewing the inspiring oh- 
 jeets that offered their powerful aid in exeiting and 
 controlling the passions of the most intelligent and 
 mercurial peojole who ever listened to the voice of an 
 orator. 
 
 The sites of all the public buildings, theatres, tem- 
 ples, and schools, were chosen with the same good taste 
 and philosophical view to effect. It should be stated 
 that the pulj)it of Demosthenes was not one of those 
 boxes bearing the name in our days, but a broad plat- 
 form of solid rock, ascended by three or four steps. 
 It was nearly thirty feet long and twenty wide, with no- 
 thing before the speaker, who was fully exposed to the 
 audience, and had ample room to walk to and fro, and 
 indulge in the vehement action which we know char- 
 acterized Grecian eloquence. 
 
 The Apostle Paul seems to have availed himself of 
 the favorable local circumstances that the elevated posi- 
 tion of the Areopagus supplied, in his discourse to the 
 curious Athenians. I have already said that this hill 
 was nearly as high as the Acropolis — not less, I should 
 think, than two hundred feet above the bed of the 
 Ilissus. It, too, is a rock, rising abruptly on all sides 
 but the western. It is ascended by a flight of steps 
 cut out of the solid stone. The top, too, has been 
 levelled by the chisel, and presents an extensive surface, 
 capable of accommodating a large assembly. There 
 are scats also on a part of the rock, which are sup- 
 posed, no doubt correctly, to have been occupied by 
 the judges. 
 
 It was in the middle of this noble area that the 
 
PAUL PREACHINc; AT ATHENS. 
 
Mars Hill. 
 
 41 
 
 Apostle stood, when he, with so much courage and 
 skill, reproved the Athenians for their idolatry, and 
 preached to them the Unknown God, who made the 
 world and all things, and dwelleth not in temples made 
 by hands. From the position where the Apostle then 
 stood, he had all the principal temples of .Athens in 
 full view before him, including certainly the most per- 
 fect and sumptuous structures ever reared for religious 
 worship. The evidence of their superstition was clear 
 and conclusive, and not to be contradicted by those 
 whose eyes rested upon the Partheon, the Theseion, 
 and all the minor temples of the Acropolis and the 
 Agora. 
 
 The Academy of Plato, about two miles north of 
 the city, upon the plain of Attica, combined with the se- 
 clusion and stillness most congenial to study and med- 
 itation, an enchanting view of the most beautiful and 
 sublime scenery. It is within a quarter of a mile of 
 two little hills of similar shape and elevation. It was 
 by these hills, compared by an ancient writer to the 
 breasts of a woman, that the site of the academy was 
 ascertained, as no monument or ruins remained to at- 
 test it. Many fragments of sculpture, and, I believe, 
 some inscriptions, have since been found in excavating 
 for building and in agriculture. The ground is now 
 occupied by a vineyard and a country seat. 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 ANTIQUITIES OF ATHENS. 
 
 The Theseion, a temple dedicated to Theseus, built 
 in the age of Cimon, is the best preserved of all the 
 ancient edifices of Athens. It is certainly the finest 
 specimen of architecture that I have seen. This edi* 
 fice has suffered little from the lapse of centuries. All 
 its columns are standing. The cella has apparently 
 undergone some repairs, and a portion of it near the 
 eastern front is covered with stucco. The ornaments 
 of the frieze are mostly gone, though some very fine 
 sculptured figures, having reference to tlie achieve- 
 ments of Hercules, still remain. They increase our re- 
 gret for what is irrevocably lost. 
 
 This temple has fourteen beautiful Ionic columns 
 on each side, and six on each front. Two also stand 
 at each of the doors or entrances into the interior of 
 the temple, of which the eastern front had one, and 
 the western another. The whole number of columns 
 is forty-two. The present roof of the temple is mod- 
 ern. There was none originally, though it is believed 
 an awning was sometimes used as a substitute. The 
 site is upon a hill which quite overlooks the city, 
 
The Tiieseion. 
 
 43 
 
 though of less elevation than the Areopagus and the 
 Pnyx. 
 
 The materials are the fine white marble of Mount 
 Pentilecus, of which all the public buildings of Athens 
 were composed. The quarry, which is still worked, is 
 about ten miles from the city. The columns of this 
 temple no longer shine with their original snowy 
 whiteness. Twenty* two centuries have imparted to 
 them a rich autumnal hue, inimitable by the painter, 
 in harmony with the serious but agreeable reflections 
 which this venerable historical' monument is so well 
 calculated to excite. The Theseion is now a Greek 
 church, though not used for the ordinary purposes of 
 worship. 
 
 At no great distance from this edifice, to the east, 
 and in the heart of the modern city, stand several pil- 
 lars in good preservation, surmounted by a portion of 
 the ancient architrave. This is presumed to be the 
 remains of an^ ancient temple, but to whom dedicated 
 is not well ascertained. It has been thought to have 
 been erected under the Koman sway, in honor perhaps 
 of one of the emperors. . 
 
 A little farther in the same direction, enclosing in 
 part the present bazar, is a massive ancient wall, evi- 
 dently a part of a quadrangle. The northern side is 
 nearly perfect. It is, I should conjecture, for I had 
 not an opportunity of measuring it, at least a thousand 
 feet in length and from twenty to thirty feet in height. 
 A part of the western front also remains, which seems 
 to have been the principal one, and to have contained 
 the principal entrance. It is still adorned with eleven 
 
44 
 
 Tower of the Winds. 
 
 Doric columns, several of them in good preservation. 
 The whole is built in the most substantial manner, of 
 large blocks of hewn stone, and if it shall not be de- 
 molished by man, may exist for thousands of years to 
 come. It is thought to have formed a part of the an- 
 cient Agora, or market-place, for which it is still used. 
 It reminded me strongly of the massive wall in Kome, 
 known as the forum of Nerva. 
 
 TOWER OF THE WINDS. 
 
 Still farther east is a small octagonal building in 
 good preservation, called the Tower of the Winds. 
 Upon its eight faees are so many emblematical figures, ‘ 
 representing the various winds which are most fre- 
 quent in Attica. Those figures flying through the air 
 — horizontal nearly in their position — express both by 
 their visages and habiliments, the peculiar character 
 of their several winds. Those which represent warm 
 and genial breezes, are unclad, and have a mild ex- 
 pression of countenance. The embodied representa- 
 tions of damp and chilling blasts are robed in winter 
 vestments, and have a stern and ferocious expression. 
 The conception of the whole, as well as the execution, 
 is exquisitely beautiful. This fabric was surmounted 
 by a Triton, moveable upon a pivot to indicate the 
 direction of the wind. It served also as a sun-dial. 
 By it many persons still regulate their time-pieces. 
 
 Finally, there are some remains of a Clepsydra, or 
 water-clock, which kept the time in cloudy weather. 
 A part of the aqueduct which conducted a stream of 
 
Lantern of Demostuenes. 45 
 
 water to move this machine, is still entire. It ap- 
 proaches to within a few feet of the town. The con- 
 struction of this curious chronometer is not known, 
 but the most able antiquaries agree in believing that 
 the remains under consideration belong to such a ma- 
 chine. Altogether, this structure is one of the most 
 curious and interesting remains of ancient art. 
 
 THE LANTERN OF DEMOSTHENES. 
 
 The Lantern of Demosthenes is near the north-east 
 part of the Acropolis. This is a beautiful structure in 
 marble, with finely sculptured ornaments in the frieze. 
 Its figure is, I think, hexagonal, with a graceful Ionic 
 pillar at each angle, projecting in high relief from the 
 cella. It is hardly more than ten feet in diameter, and 
 it is now generally admitted that it was formerly sur- 
 mounted with a tripod in honor of those who had ex- 
 celled in the performances of the theatre. 
 
 - An ancient street, called the Street of the Tripods, 
 extended from this beautiful edifice over very precipi- 
 tous ground, along the base, or rather upon the eastern 
 side of the Acropolis, to the theatre of Bacchus. This 
 whole street was occupied by splendid trophies of 
 their theatrical victories, which gave it the name. 
 Two only remain beside the Lantern of Demosthenes. 
 These are two simple marble pillars, which stand upon 
 a high cliff that overhangs the theatre. 
 
 They were formerly surmounted by tripods, as is 
 known by an inscription found upon the spot. Upon 
 the same cliff, by the side of these columns, stands a 
 
46 
 
 Theatre of Bacchus. 
 
 curious sun-dial, made of a larg6 block of marble — its 
 southern surface concave— upon which are drawn the 
 lines that mark the hours of the day. This was visible 
 to the people in the theatre, and was doubtless for 
 their accommodation. 
 
 The theatre of Bacchus is excavated in this side of 
 the Acropolis, almost immediately below the Parthenon. 
 It is semi-circular, of immense extent—the arc toward 
 the Acropolis, and hewn out of the solid rock — the chord 
 upon the declivity of the hill toward the Ilissus. This 
 lower side was supported by an immense wall of large 
 blocks of hewn stone, many of which are still in their 
 places. The seats rose amphitheatrically upon the side ' 
 of the hill, one above another to a great elevation. The 
 greater part of these is covered with a mass of rub- 
 bish. Some of the highest seats have been disinterred. 
 These are cut in the solid rock. 
 
 This, as well as the other Grecian theatres, was with- 
 out a roof, the exhibitions being in the open air. It 
 commands a grand view of Ilymettus, the sea, and 
 several of the interesting localities, calculated to have 
 /an inspiring influence upon the audience as well as the 
 performers, an object of which these people never lost 
 sight in choosing the sites of their public assemblies. 
 The theatre of Bacchus was capable of seating at least 
 from ten to twenty thousand people. It is difficult to 
 conceive how a speaker in the open air could make 
 himself heard by the vast multitudes who assembled 
 here, and in the jolace of public meetings upon the' 
 Pnyx. The climate is certainly very favorable. This 
 pure atmosphere transmits sound admirably, and I 
 
Temple op Jupitee Olympius. 47 
 
 am sure that a man may be heard^ as well as seen^ 
 distinctly much farther than nnder more, troubled 
 skies. 
 
 The Odeium of Regilla is a Eoman theatre, also high 
 up the side of the Acropolis, and commanding, like 
 that of Bacchus, a magnificent view of land and sea. 
 It is very large, though of less extent than the other. 
 Tery large remains of the walls are extant. The en- 
 trance looks to the north-east, where the arches rising 
 upon arches remind one of the Flavian amphitheatre 
 at Eome. This structure is of a comparatively mod- 
 ern era, and it never was, like the theatre of Bacchus, 
 associated with the public business as well as the 
 amusements of the Athenians. Many of the marble 
 seats of this theatre are still in their place, and the 
 workmanship is substantial. It was built by Herodes 
 Atticus, and named in honor of his wife. 
 
 THE TEMPLE OP JUPITER OLYMPIUS. 
 
 This temple is east of the city, near the Ilissus. This 
 was unquestionably the largest and most sumptuous 
 of Greek temples,— it was perhaps the largest in the 
 world. Begun in the early ages of Greece, it was sev- 
 eral centuries in building. The emperor Adrian com- 
 pleted it. Nothing remains but the immense platform 
 upon which the vast edifice was reared, and sixteen 
 splendid Corinthian columns, which still bear testi- 
 mony to its grandeur. They are about sixty feet in 
 height and twenty in circumference, all of Pentelic 
 
48 Temple of Jupiter Olympius. 
 
 marble.* A portion of the architrave still rests upon 
 these pillars. It consists of massive blocks of marble, 
 which lead us to admire the skill that raised them so 
 high, when, if the conjectures of many learned men 
 are correct, little was known of those contrivances by 
 which human strength is now aided in accomplishing 
 such works. Upon a portion of this architrave is a 
 cell, built of brick, in which it is said a hermit spent 
 many years of his life, having his food brought to him 
 by means of a ladder of ropes. lie remained for six 
 years in this aerial habitation without descending. 
 The foundation of this temple covers several acres. 
 
 * Thomas Bellot, F.R.C.S.E., Surgeon of the Royal Navy, gives 
 the following account of the fall of one of these pillars, a catastrophe 
 of which he was an eye witness : — “ On the night of the 26th of Oc- 
 tober, 1852, the centre pillar of the three, which formed a part of 
 the inner south peristyle of the Temple of Jupiter Olympius, was 
 thrown down by the gale from the south-east. The column fell due 
 north, and lies prostrate, the drums (the sections of the shaft) pre- 
 serving nearly their relative positions, though separated. The fallen 
 pieces lie horizontally, and nearly touch each other, like bricks 
 arranged to knock each other down in their fall. The upper half 
 of the capital, with its Corinthian volutes, is completely capsized. 
 The square marble base of the column rested upon two square courses 
 of coarse limestone, two feet thick each course. The soil or earth 
 giving way under the north side of the pillar, the course broke 
 across from east to west, and when the column was inclined at a cer- 
 tain angle, the second drum or section slipped off the first or lowest, 
 carrying with it all the upper column in one piece. The column 
 fell at a right angle to the long diameter of the temple, which lies 
 east and west. The drums were each connected by two small iron 
 bars, five inches long and an inch and a half square, fitted with lead 
 into the marble, so as to prevent the oxidation of the iron discoloi'- 
 ing the marble. These bars are either drawn* from their sockets or 
 broken across. Tlie pillar is capable of being re-erected.” 
 
The Ilissus. 
 
 49 
 
 It must have been the most expensive of ancient 
 temples. 
 
 The columns are the most magnificent I have seen. 
 It is believed that there were at least one hundred and 
 sixty, — many more according to some antiquaries. 
 Enough does not remain to furnish a full plan of the 
 original edifice, though no doubt is left that it was the 
 principal work of the kind in Greece. Some very 
 large remains of the terrace which supported the foun- 
 dation of this temple upon the south, are still to be 
 seen. This wall is constructed of large blocks of 
 hewn stone, and has an elevation of nearly twenty feet 
 in the highest part. This was demanded by the nature 
 of the ground, which here declines very rapidly to- 
 wards the Ilissus. 
 
 This ancient river is now dry. Its bed lies along 
 the base of Mount Hymettus — is rocky, and in some 
 places precipitous. During my stay in Greece it had 
 no water. It makes some figure in the Greek writers, 
 though it was only an inconsiderable rivulet, serving 
 the ancient city for a variety of useful purposes. It 
 flowed close to the walls of the city. It was probably 
 a perennial stream, though it is. said to have forsaken 
 its channel at times to 'pursue a subterranean course. 
 Now it is dry for eight months in the year. 
 
 THE STADIUM. 
 
 The stadium, the place for gymnastic exercises, was 
 situated less than half a mile from the temple of Jupi- 
 ter Qlympius, higher up the Ilissus, and on the oppo- 
 
 3 
 
60 
 
 The Stadium. 
 
 site side. * A stone bridge, of wbicb there are ample 
 remains, gave access to it from the city. This stadium 
 is excavated from the lower declivity of Mount Ily- 
 mettus. It is of an oblong form, and of great extent, 
 capable of holding all the citizens of Athens when its 
 population was greatest. Nothing remains but the ex- 
 cavated area, — the seats and other apartments having 
 long since disappeared. It was an amphitheatre ; and 
 rising from the centre, which was the arena devoted to 
 the wrestlers, were the seats for the spectators, one 
 above another for a great distance up the inclined 
 sides which were formed by excavating the hill. 
 
 By a careless observer this area might be mistaken 
 for a small valley formed by the hand of nature. Its 
 perfect regularity of form, however, demonstrates that 
 it was wrought by human skiU. The notices of 
 ancient writers leave no doubt that it is the Stadium. 
 Undet* the Koman dominion, it was devoted to the 
 contests of gladiators. The Greeks, it is believed, 
 never encouraged this species of amusement, and none 
 of their public places seem to have been constructed 
 for this purpose. Nothing gives us so unfavorable an 
 opinion of the Eoman character as their fondness for 
 these bloody exhibitions. . A people who could relish 
 such amusements must, no doubt, have been essentially 
 defective in the finer sensibilities of our nature, or 
 grievously demoralized by long familiarity with scenes 
 of violence and crime. 
 
 The Lyceum was situated about half a mile farther 
 up the Ilissus, in a retired and quiet spot near the 
 city, and yet sufficiently remote from its tumults to 
 
The Lyceum. 
 
 51 
 
 favor study and contemplation. There the ingenuous 
 youth of Athens resorted, to imbibe the lessons of 
 wisdom and virtue to which this classic spot was con- 
 secrated. Some gardens and a field of wheat now 
 occupy the level spot, which antiquarians agree in 
 assigning to the groves of the Lyceum. Not a tree re- 
 mains. No vestige of the structures which adorned 
 this haunt of the Athenian philosophers — none of the 
 splendid fountains and statuary which lent their 
 attractions to the scene — have escaped the ravages of 
 time and the cupidity of collectors. 
 
 The Lyceum is nearly east of the city, much nearer 
 than the Academy ; but its situation is less conspicuous 
 and commanding, and not less favorable to contempla- 
 tive retirement.' None of the interesting localities of 
 Athens have at present less to distinguish them from 
 the surrounding region in which they are nearly lost, 
 than these two celebrated spots. Probably they never 
 contained any considerable structures. The groves, 
 under whose shades the lessons of wisdom were uttered 
 — some seats, to diminish the fatigues of study, with 
 the fountains and statues, always to be found in the 
 gardens and promenades of the Greeks as well as the 
 Eomans, — were composed of such materials as could 
 easily be removed and converted to other purposes. 
 This may account for the want of all such remains as 
 might have been expected to fix their localities with a 
 degree of certainty that should be entirely satisfactory 
 to the curious inquirer. 
 
 Fortunately, these sites are surrounded by some of 
 those permanent natural objects which remain when 
 
52 
 
 The Lyceum. 
 
 the works of man are obliterated. By them we are 
 guided to the interesting places where Socrates and 
 Plato instructed the youth of Athens in the lessons of 
 an enlarged and humanizing philosophy. It is in the 
 midst of associations like these that the calmest mind 
 is allowed to become imaginative, and finds it easy to 
 recall and re-people scenes that have been consecrated 
 by the highest examples of wisdom and virtue. 
 

 
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CHAPTER V. 
 
 ANTIQUITIES OF ATHENS. 
 
 The Acropolis contains upon its summit some of 
 the finest antiquities of Athens and the world. 
 
 The Propylse stands at the only entrance of this 
 fortress. It is, as its name indicates, the gateway 
 through which access is had to the interior. This 
 beautiful structure stands upon the upper part of the 
 steep declivity on the western side of the mount. It 
 is composed of magnificent Doric columns of Pentelic 
 marble. Twenty-one are now standing. This colon- 
 nade has two fronts, — one towards the Pnyx and the 
 Areopagus, which was seen by those who ascended to 
 the citadel, — the other towards the interior. They are 
 similar in appearance — each consisting of six columns, 
 surmounted by an architrave and frieze, which was 
 formerly richly ornamented with sculpture. Another 
 row of six columns stands between the eastern and 
 western fronts. The whole number of columns wa? 
 sixty. Of these, thirty-nine are now standing, sur 
 mounted for the most part by the architrave. 
 
 The splendid sculptured ornaments of the frieze- 
 
54 
 
 
 The Elgin Marbles. 
 
 the chef d' oeuvre of Phidias, and the peculiar glory of 
 this temple, — have been for the most part removed. 
 Some of the figures are lying mutilated upon the 
 ground, but a large part of them were carried by Lord 
 Elgin to England, where, under the name of the Elgin 
 marbles, they constitute the most precious treasure of 
 the British Museum. Lord Elgin was for a while 
 regarded as a patron of the arts, and a public benefac- 
 tor. This opinion has been reversed, and perhaps no 
 man has been the object of more frequent and bitter 
 reproaches. It is difficult not to confirm the sentence 
 of condemnation. 
 
 Every one who looks upon the mutilated fagade of 
 the Parthenon must desire strongly to see these dilapi- 
 dations restored so far as may yet be possible. The 
 feeling may not have been so strong while the Turkish 
 power continued; but now that Greece has become 
 an independent Christian state, and increasing numbers 
 of scholars are annually visiting its classic remains, a 
 more deep pnd pervading indignation will be felt 
 towards the spoiler of this noblest monument of 
 genius ; and the British nation, by retaining what was 
 so unjustly and sacrilegiously taken from its rightful 
 possessors, will be regarded as participators in the 
 crime. 
 
 The sculpture of the frieze that rests upon the interior 
 range of pillars belonging to the western front, is 
 nearly entire, and most admirable. Nothing can ex- 
 ceed the truth and spirit of the figures ; and the finish 
 is exquisite. How careful must this great artist have 
 been of his reputation ! These ornaments were made 
 
The Parthenon. 
 
 55 
 
 to be elevated more than forty feet from the earth, 
 where the perfection of their finish cannot be appre- 
 ciated, and where small defects must be concealed. 
 Still, every part is finished with the most laborious and 
 accurate attention. The utmost care was bestowed 
 upon beauties which, in their original situation, must 
 have remained wholly undiscovered. Nothing which 
 has since been produced by the chisel gives us so high 
 an idea of the power of sculpture as these fragments 
 of Phidias. 
 
 The light and chaste proportions of this temple, 
 which can yet be fully appreciated, though a part has 
 fallen, fill the mind with lively admiration. One be- 
 comes dissatisfied with all inferior creations of the 
 architect. The choicest remains of Kome are heavy 
 and lifeless. The beautiful Madelaine of Paris, an 
 avowed copy, is felt to be a bungling imitation of 
 what human genius seems destined never to equal. 
 In this department of art, Athens, to the present day, 
 stands unrivalled. The Parthenon is the crown of the 
 Acropolis. It is the first object seen in approaching 
 Athens, whether by land or sea, and the view to be 
 had from its summit is one of the most beautiful and 
 interesting in the world. 
 
 There are two other temples upon the Acropolis. 
 Anciently there were several more, of which no ves- 
 tige now remains. The Erechtheium is an unique edi- 
 fice, having three fronts, through which entrance was 
 had into as many separate parts of this edifice, each 
 dedicated to a separate divinity, and constituting in 
 effect three temples. This structure is in the Ionic 
 
56 
 
 Temple of Victory. 
 
 style, of which fourteen beautiful columns are stand- 
 ing.* They perfectly satisfy all that the mind is able 
 to conceive of chasteness and beautiful proportion. 
 Their slender, inimitable form, contrasts admirably 
 with the massive Doric pillars of the Parthenon, which 
 we have just left. 
 
 The main body of this edifice is about ninety feet 
 in length. One of the fronts, south, is adorned with 
 beautiful caryatides instead of columns, which have 
 been the admiration of all visitors. One of these, too, 
 has been rifled to adorn a British collection. 
 
 Another small temple stands to the right of the 
 front of the Propylae in entering the Acropolis. It 
 was dedicated to the wingless Victory, a beautiful 
 conception of the Athenian mythology, according to 
 which the favors of the fickle goddess were to remain 
 forever with the favorites of Minerva. This temple 
 was for several ages entirely lost, but the present in- 
 telligent antiquary, who is fortunately intrusted with 
 the care of the precious monuments of art in Athens 
 and the vicinity, has succeeded in discovering its scat- 
 tered parts, and is reconstructing one of the most 
 agreeable and delicate of the ancient edifices of this 
 wonderful place. It is of the Ionic order, and has 
 
 * Two of these columns were blown down and broken in pieces 
 by the violent hurricane which devastated Athens on the night of 
 the 26th of October, 1862. The two beautiful cypresses, one by the 
 Tower of the Winds, the other by the mosque in the Agora, also fell ; 
 one of them snapped in two, ten feet from the ground. There was 
 also immense damage done to the Palace-garden, where all the large 
 trees were blown down, and the interior of the Palace greatly in- 
 jured on the south side. 
 
Pulpit of Demosthenes. 57 
 
 seven of the eight original columns standing. The 
 cella is hardly more than fifteen or twenty feet in 
 length. The site is commanding. It was placed in 
 front of the Parthenon, but from its inferior size, does not 
 hide or obstruct the view of that magnificent edifice. 
 
 The other ancient structures, of which remains more 
 or less perfect have come down to us, are less import- 
 ant and striking than those above enumerated. North- 
 west of the Acropolis, and distant about half a mile, is 
 a high hill called Museium. This is surmounted by 
 a monument in honor of Philopappus. It is of white 
 marble, and there are yet some remains of the statues 
 of which a considerable number once adorned it. This 
 structure faces the Acropolis, and is about forty feet 
 in height. 
 
 The large arena of the Pnyx, designed for the pub- 
 lic assemblies of the Athenians, rests at its lower side 
 upon a remarkable terrace. It is of Cyclo]3ian archi- 
 tecture, constructed of enormous polygonal stones, 
 laid without cement. It is certainly a work of the 
 earliest days of the republic. . This vast area is exca- 
 vated upon its upper side out of the rock, to the depth 
 of nearly twenty feet. 
 
 The Pulpit of Demosthenes is excavated in the same 
 rock, as well as the steps by which it is approached on 
 the side of the area, and those also which form the 
 ascent from this platform to the higher parts ot the 
 hill, rising immediately behind the orator, where it is 
 believed stood the old tribune which commanded a 
 view of the sea and the ports. The circular area of 
 the Pnyx which was thus prepared by this huge Cy- 
 
 r * 
 
68 
 
 Pulpit of Demosthenes. 
 
 clopian wall, and bj excavations for the meetings of 
 the people, is of great extent, capable of bolding at 
 least a thousand. There is no appearance of seats, nor 
 is it likely that any such conveniences were provided 
 for the multitude. 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 THE ACROPOLIS. 
 
 The walls of the Acropolis, which enclose so many 
 precious monuments of antiquity, are themselves well 
 worthy of attention. Parts of them are very ancient, 
 and of great historical interest. They are the work 
 of different ages and races. The most ancient portion 
 is the Pelasgic wall on the northern side of the citadel. 
 It is thought to have an antiquity corresponding with 
 the residence of those people in Greece — an era if not 
 strictly fabulous, remote and obscure. This wall is of 
 the Cyclopian style, and is the only specimen of this 
 massive species of architecture in Athens. Farther 
 east upon the same side of the citadel, is a portion of 
 the wall built immediately after the retreat of the army 
 of Xerxes. It bears evidence of the haste with which 
 the Athenians reconstructed their fortifications, and 
 affords a very interesting confirmation of a passage of 
 Grecian history, which reflects the deepest disgrace 
 upon Sparta. The jealousy with which that selfish 
 and ambitious State always regarded Athens, was 
 strikingly manifested at this time, when, under pre- 
 text that the citadel of the rival city, which was now 
 only a heap of ruins, might afford a dangerous shelter 
 
60 Walls of the Acropolis. 
 
 for the enemy, in case of another invasion, and become 
 a stronghold from which the Persian forces might sally 
 forth for the conquest of Grreece, it was secretly re- 
 solved to prevent the Athenians from rebuilding their 
 ruined walls. Themistocles penetrated this base and 
 wicked conspiracy against the liberty and indepen- 
 dence of his country. He was ambassador to Sparta, 
 and warned his country of the design of their jealous 
 rival, at the same time urging them to labor day and 
 night in rebuilding their fortress, whilst he with con- 
 summate address prevented the Spartans from taking 
 any decisive measure till he had upon various pre- 
 tences gained time enough for the completion' of the 
 new walls. lie then boldly reproached them with 
 their cowardly designs, and defied their power. 
 
 A portion of the wall which was built under these 
 interesting circumstances, remains. Though solid and 
 massive, the material . is heterogeneous, and was 
 manifestly taken from other buildings. Amongst them 
 are many frusta of fluted marble columns, the remains, 
 no doubt, .of those superb temples which had been de- 
 molished by the barbarian enemy. These splendid 
 fragments are apparently, for they are at a great height 
 above the spectators, not less than four feet in diame- 
 ter. One account says that Themistocles caused these 
 fragments of the temples of the gods to be built into 
 the wall, in order to inspire posterity with a lasting 
 hatred against their sacrilegious invaders. The former 
 seems to be the true history of this interesting section 
 of the Acropolis. 
 
 Considerable portions of the present wall are ascribed 
 
Walls of the A c ko p o l i s . 61 
 
 to Cimon. Finally, the Venetians and the Turks, and 
 the modern Grreeks, have each constructed a part, — 
 exhibiting, as these successive masters of Greece do, 
 whenever their works are seen in juxta-position, a 
 lamentable proof of the progress in degradation and 
 decline of the arts from the days of Themistocles to 
 the present time. The havoc made of the splendid 
 structures of the Acropolis by successive wars — the 
 shells and fragments of shells which are dug up by the 
 excavations, and left in all parts of this fortress, — are 
 affecting proofs of the bloody vicissitudes of which this 
 interesting spot has long been the theatre.* 
 
 * During the past year, most interesting excavations have been 
 made at the Acropolis by M. Beiile, member of the School of Athens, 
 at the expense of the French Government. An enormous breach 
 •was made in a "wall built by the Turks, -which hid the Propyla). 
 The earth which covered the bastions was also removed, and now, 
 instead of a low door badly built, and placed in the side walls, a 
 majestic entrance to the Acropolis is revealed, fronting on the Pirajus 
 and Salamis. The newly-discovered wall is of white marble, deco- 
 rated with friezes and cornices, and complete, although the materials 
 are defaced by time. Two towers defend the entrance, at the right 
 and at the left ; and in the middle is a Doric gateway, corresponding 
 with the grand gateway of the Propylae. It is from these that one 
 can behold the grand plan of the monument of Mnesicles. The im- 
 mense stair-case, which ascends to the summit of the Acropolis, and 
 of which the last steps have been discovered, is seventy feet in 
 height. The king of Greece has expressed the most lively satisfac- 
 tion at the brilliant results of these efforts to reveal the glory of the 
 ancient citadel of Athens. Before leaving Athens, M. Beul6 had 
 placed near the gate of the Acropolis a large slab of marble, on 
 which is engraved a Greek inscription, of which the following is a 
 translation: — “France has discovered the gate of the Acropolis, the 
 walls, the tower, and the stair-case. 1853. Beul^.” 
 

 62 GrottoofPan. 
 
 ✓ 
 
 The temple of the Eumenides is rather a work of 
 nature than of art, though of great interest to the 
 curious and intelligent traveller. It is under the 
 south-eastern angle of the Areopagus. A fissure has , 
 been made in the lofty rock, apparently by some con- 
 vulsion of nature. An immense mass is severed from 
 the mount, from which it is removed fifteen or twenty 
 feet at the base, while at the summit the distance is 
 much less. This deep and gloomy chasm, sheltered 
 by the overhanging rock, was the temple of the Eu- \ 
 
 menides. There is a fountain in the most interior part ^ 
 
 of this cavern, dry, it is said, in summer, but full, j 
 
 when I saw it, of a blackish, nearly stagnant water. I 
 
 There are some niches in the rock, designed, no doubt, | 
 
 for statues or votive offerings. It seems highly proba- | 
 
 ble that this cavern, or temple, is nearly the same now \ 
 
 as it was when seen by the ancient writers ; and cer- \ 
 
 tainly no architectural erection could have been better ■ 
 
 adapted to the rites of a gloomy and terrible supersti- 
 tion. It is immediately below that part of the Areop- 
 agus which was occupied by that judicial assembly. 
 
 The Grotto of Pan is also a natural cavern in the 
 north side of the hill of the Acropolis. Here, too, 
 are several niches cut out of the living rock. In the > 
 eastern side of the Pnyx there are some chambers 
 four or five yards long, by half that width and height. 
 
 These are excavated from the rock, and are closed 
 with doors. I know not upon what authority they are r. 
 called the prisons of Socrates. It is currently said, f 
 that the philosopher was confined there by his capri- . 
 cious and ungrateful country. These cells would cer- ; 
 
Churches in Athens. 63 
 
 tainly be very secure, and not ill adapted otherwise to 
 the purposes of a prison. 
 
 I have here enumerated all the antiquities of Athens, 
 with the exception of a multitude of interesting frag- 
 ments and inscriptions, to be seen in several collections, 
 or in the walls of modern buildings, or finally in vari- 
 ous localities, where they have been found in excava- 
 tions for foundations or for building materials. Almost 
 every house, however mean, has in its wall some frag- 
 ment of marble, often exquisitely chiselled, and evi- 
 dently a part of some ancient structure. One sees 
 capitals, and fragments of beautiful pillars, lying half 
 buried beneath heaps of rubbish, or built into the 
 stair-cases or walls of modern houses, which have 
 themselves become ruins by the violence of war, or the 
 action of the elements upon their frail structures. 
 
 Nearly all the churches contain columns and other 
 remains of ancient edifices. These precious relics of 
 better days are arranged with an utter disregard to fit- 
 ness and symmetry, which sufficiently shows that they 
 are not indebted for their present situation in holy 
 places to any lurking remains of taste for the arts, 
 though a certain blind reverence for antiquity may 
 have exerted some influence on the architects of these 
 grotesque buildings. There are, it is said, three hun- 
 dred churches in Athens. Not one has the slightest 
 architectural pretensions. Most of them are without 
 roofs, — many never had any, but are mere enclosures 
 of loose stones with a kind of rude altar consecrated to 
 the honor of some saint. Twelve or fifteen churches 
 
64 
 
 The Long Walls. 
 
 would oe an ample supply for the population rif 
 Athens. 
 
 There is, however, no reference to utility in these 
 constructions. It is deemed an act of piety to build a 
 church or chapel. This is sometimes prescribed as a 
 penance. They are often built upon the summits of 
 hills and mountains, remote from the population and 
 nearly inaccessible. Hundreds of these commonly 
 wretched structures are seen in a journey through 
 Greece, where public service is never celebrated, or 
 at least only upon the fete-day of the saint to whom 
 they are devoted. I was informed that the priests 
 often direct persons, for particular delinquencies, to 
 procure a certain number of masses, by way of expia- 
 tion, to be performed in these solitary fanes. These 
 chapels abound where the ruins of ancient edifices af- 
 ford ab-undance of materials, without any other labor 
 than that of piling them up in some rude way. At 
 Lewctra, and some other places, nearly all the old 
 materials have been in this way consecrated, though 
 nothing appears but walls laid up in the clumsiest man- 
 ner, having at one end of the enclosure two upright 
 stones, often the fragments of pillars, surmounted by 
 a slab of marble, by way of an altar. The peasants 
 cross themselves as they pass, and as to the rest, sheep 
 and goats enjoy free ingress and egress. 
 
 Of the celebrated Long W alls, sixty feet in height, 
 connecting Athens with the sea, there are inconsider- 
 able remains near the PiraBus. They consist of large 
 blocks of square stone, partly in their original positions 
 and partly removed. These stupendous monuments 
 
The Long Walls. 
 
 65 
 
 of the enterprise and wealth of the Athenians seem to 
 have been of the most solid construction, and we 
 should be surprised at their disappearance but for the 
 great facility afforded for removing the materials by 
 the proximity of the sea. 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 MODERN ATHENS. 
 
 By a census which was completed just before I ar- 
 rived in Athens, its population was found to be seven- 
 teen thousand. A number of these, perhaps a ma- 
 jority, are foreigners, — that is, not natives of the king- 
 dom, but Greeks from Turkey and Asia Minor, and a 
 good many Europeans. A large part of the scanty 
 capital which is employed in building and trade, was 
 brought in by these foreigners. The city has probably 
 a larger population at present than at any period since 
 the Turkish domination commenced. It has little reg- 
 ularity, convenience, or elegance in its plan, though in 
 these respects it seems, judging from the ruins that re- 
 main, not to be inferior to the town which was destroy- 
 ed in the late war. It is even said that ancient Athens, 
 with all its splendor and wealth, was no better in this 
 respect, the houses of private individuals being mean 
 and the streets narrow and irregular. Those of the 
 present city are excessively contracted, being hardly 
 six or eight feet wide. They arc not paved,’ and are 
 extremely filthy. Still, there are several thoroughfares 
 of better dimensions. More time will doubtless pro- 
 
Improvement in Athens. 
 
 67 
 
 (luce furtlier improvements. Pavements will be made 
 and rubbish removed. 
 
 Nine years since, there was not one habitable house 
 in Athens. All had fallen a sacrifice to the violence 
 of war. The people returned with the return of peace, 
 poor and unsheltered, and it was out of the question 
 to impose upon them an obligation to widen the streets 
 and build eligible houses. That necessity which ac- 
 knowledges no law pressed upon them with a severity 
 hardly ever known. Beside, they were quite unaccus- 
 tomed to the style of building which pervades in more 
 wealthy and civilized countries. I apprehend the pres- 
 ent town is more elegantly built than anything even in 
 Greece, since the fall of the Byzantine empire. I 
 thought Athens a very poor and unsightly collection 
 of shabby habitations, but after I had made the tour 
 of Greece it had the aspect of a well-built town. What 
 is most to be regretted is, that the most populous part 
 of the town covers a portion of the ancient city, which 
 has never been excavated. It stands upon a bed of 
 accumulated ruins from ten to fifteen or twenty feet 
 thick, which is no doubt a rich mine of antiquities, 
 which must forever be lost to the world, unless some 
 terrible revolution shall again overspread this fat?d 
 land with new desolation. 
 
 The government has been much blamed for making 
 Athens its capital, chiefly because it has rendered im- 
 possible those excavations which could hardly fail to 
 enrich the world with many highly valuable discov- 
 eries. Some think that Nauplia, others that Corinth, 
 Patras, or the Piraeus, should havx had tbe prcfe/ymce. 
 
68 
 
 Prosperity of Athens. 
 
 as better suited to commerce, and as free from tho 
 strong objection I have just mentioned. Athens should 
 have been left in its venerable ruins — a place of pil- 
 grimage for the antiquary and the scholar. I do not 
 think so unfavorably of the choice made by the gov- 
 ernment. I know not how far a government is at lib- 
 erty to allow sentiment and classical enthusiasm to in- 
 fluence the decision of economical questions. The 
 ground which it would have been most desirable to re- 
 serve for excavations is precisely that upon which the 
 town destroyed by the war was built. Of course, it 
 was private property which the government was not 
 able to buy, and could not interfere with on other 
 terms. The people here, as in other parts of the coun- 
 try, returned to their former homes, with ajffection for 
 the sacred spot, hallowed by its having been the home 
 of their fathers for thousands of years, and but the 
 more deaiito them for its calamities. Would it have 
 been wise in the government to disregard this natural 
 attachment, and to renew the attempt made two thou- 
 sand years ago, to transplant the Athenians and lay 
 the foundations of a new city ? Corinth and Nauplia 
 are decidedly unhealthy, whilst Athens is famed for 
 the salubrity of its situation. 
 
 The rapid growth of this city I consider as sanction- 
 ing the choice made by the government. Multitudes 
 have no doubt been attracted by its name and ancient 
 renown, and the affluence of intelligent strangers will 
 ensure a degree of wealth and a rapid advance in civ- 
 ilization and refinement much wanted by the country, 
 which could not have been realized in any other locality. 
 
Parade of Business. 
 
 69 
 
 A good road has been constructed to the Piraeus, 
 and a railway, which, as the ground is very favorable, 
 could be made with little expense, would go far to re- 
 move the commercial objection. No one would ever 
 wish that Edinburgh with its schools were removed 
 from its present beautiful site, of which Athens strong- 
 ly reminded me, to the more commodious trading po- 
 sition of Leith. Athens is now the only spot in Greece 
 which exhibits any appearance of active prosperity. 
 The residence of the court has much influence in pro- 
 ducing this result, but its lovely, healthful situation, 
 and its classical wealth and association, I think, have 
 done much more, by the strong inducements they hold 
 out to wealthy travellers and emigrants. 
 
 A stranger, in w^alkiug through some of the streets 
 of this renovated capital, is struck with the great ap- 
 pearance of activity and business. The number of 
 shops is very great in proportion to the size of the 
 town. Several of the streets are much thronged, and 
 a multitude of people are seen engaged in mechanical 
 employments. More careful observation and more 
 familiar acquaintance, however, show that this activ- 
 ity and bustle are greatly out of all proportion to the 
 business done. Everything is done in the smallest 
 way. There are no large stores, and very few con- 
 siderable ones. Business that ought not to employ 
 more than one or two persons, and that might be con- 
 fined to a single shop, is subdivided amongst a dozen. 
 Capitals are excessively small. Men being strangers 
 to each other without mutual confidence, combina- 
 
70 
 
 
 
 
 Coffee-Houses. 
 
 tions in trade are impossible. Hence a ranltitude of 
 small traders with little business upon the whole. 
 
 There is much of the parade and ostentation of busi- 
 ness, with only the most trivial results. Two or three 
 Pearl street merchants sell more than the whole of the 
 craft in Athens. The stores and shops are all open in 
 front, the whole being formed of moveable planks, and 
 closed only at night. The goods of the merchant, as 
 well as the work of the mechanic, are all exposed to 
 view. The number of shoemakers and tailors is so 
 large, that I presume they not only supply the demand 
 of the town, but of the country where mechanics are 
 scarce. Bakers are also numerous, but one sees very 
 little manufactures of any sort beyond these three 
 classes, who labor to supply immediate wants. Paper,' 
 leather, and other articles, the first with which a civil- 
 ized and industrious country supplies itself, are im- 
 ported. 
 
 I was struck with the number of coffee-houses and 
 drinking and smoking establishments in this city. I 
 know not how many there may be in the city, but I 
 am sure that I have seen several hundreds of persons 
 in these places of idle resort, in a walk of ten minutes 
 after dark. They are seated around low tables, with a 
 cup of coffee or a glass of spirits or wine before them, 
 and the largest portion of them engaged in playing 
 cards. They seemed to play for money — small sums, 
 no doubt, as the coin upon the table was always cop- 
 per. I could but fear that a very low state of morals 
 prevailed. The common people are loud and quarrel- 
 some. Their tones are angry and their gesticulations 
 
Saints’ Days. 
 
 71 
 
 violent and alarming, but I never saw them strike, 
 though I often expected serious results. In this they 
 reminded me of the French populace, who storm and 
 beat the air furiously, but always keep the fear of the 
 police before their eyes. The industry of the country 
 is greatly injured by the holy days of the church, 
 which are, I beheve, more numerous than they are 
 amongst the Catholics. They agree, too, with the 
 Catholics in paying more respect to their saints’ days 
 than to the Sabbath. The shops are open, and busi- 
 ness proceeds as usual after the morning service in the 
 churches, whilst upon a fete day a Grreek cannot be 
 induced to work. All the circumstances of intemper- 
 ance which have fallen under my observation, have 
 occurred on such occasions. I arrived in Athens the 
 night before the commencement of Lent, when, 
 during a period of forty days, the Greeks are prohib- 
 ited the use of animal food — not of flesh merely, as 
 the Catholics are, but also of butter, cheese, and eggs. 
 The streets were thronged by riotous Bacchanalians, 
 who were indemnifying themselves in advance for the 
 privations of this holy season. Their songs and out- 
 cries resounded from street to street, and, though much 
 fatigued, I was quite unable to sleep during the whole 
 night. 
 
CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 THE GREEK CHURCH. 
 
 I MADE many inquiries with regard to the Greek 
 church and its influence over the people. The clergy 
 derive their support from marriage, christening, burial, 
 and other fees, and from the contributions of the peo- 
 ple when these fees prove inadequate to their mainten- 
 ance. Their whole income, from whatever source 
 derived, is very inconsiderable. The management of 
 ecclesiastical matters belongs chiefly to a synod com- 
 posed of the principal clergy. The bishops, who be- 
 long to this body, have a stipend from the State. 
 Others, as well as the inferior priesthood, receive no- 
 thing from the government, though this church is the 
 established one. All religions are tolerated by the 
 fundamental laws. The Greek clergy are said to pos- 
 sess little influence over the people, though there is a 
 bigoted attachment to the church. The priesthood is 
 chiefly of the lower orders, and badly educated. I 
 heard anecdotes of them that went to show the preva- 
 lence of the most gross and shameful ignorance. 
 
 This sufficiently accounts for their want of influence. 
 The people of all ranks, it is said, regard them in the 
 discharge of their sacred functions at the altar, with 
 
The Greek Church. 
 
 73 
 
 the highest veneration, but personally and in the in- 
 tercourse of life, they enjoy little consideration. They 
 are not often seen in conversation with gentlemen in 
 public places, but are manifestly left to associate with 
 the lowest of the people. This one observes of the 
 Catholic clergy in several countries in ^Europe devoted 
 to that faith. The Catholic clergy, however, differ 
 from the Greek in maintaining everywhere a decided 
 influence over their flocks. It is not at the altai 
 only that their power is felt. It is pre-eminent in 
 political and other questions, and those who seek to 
 act upon public opinion, are studious to secure the co- 
 operation of this powerful body. In Greece, I could 
 not perceive that the influence of the clergy was taken 
 into the account in political questions. The liberals 
 speak of it as insignificant, though, in general, un- 
 friendly to their designs. Perhaps they undervalue it, 
 and are too little solicitous to secure the aid of a nu- 
 merous body of men, who, it seems to me, must always 
 possess considerable weight in all questions in which 
 they please to enlist, so long as they are regarded by 
 the multitude as true ministers of Christ. The king 
 has not, it seems, been inattentive to the clergy, whose 
 favor he has, to a considerable extent, secured. 
 
 The doctrines of the Greek church find much more 
 favor in the eyes of the Protestants than do the dog- 
 mas of the Catholics. No opposition has hitherto been 
 raised in Greece against the circulation of the Scripr 
 tures, though the reading of them is not urged as a 
 duty ; nor is it deemed very essential to those who en- 
 joy the privilege of attending on public worship, and^ 
 
 4 
 
 
74 
 
 The Greek Clergy. 
 
 \ 
 
 of learning their Christian duty from the mouth of the 
 priesthood. From all I could learn, these instructions 
 are at best of doubtful tendency. A gentleman who is 
 well acquainted with this subject, and who takes a 
 lively interest in all that is connected with the spread 
 of piety, assured me that the preaching of the Greek 
 clergy is little calculated to produce high moral results. 
 It is almost wholly employed in the inculcation of the 
 mere ceremonial of the church. It dwells upon the 
 enormity of indulging in the use of flesh or eggs dur- 
 ing the Fasts, when they are prohibited, — upon the 
 efficacy of confession or of penance, — and a tedious 
 et cetera^ — wffiich, to Protestants at least, must appear 
 pitiful trifles. The clerical costume is a black cap and 
 gown. The beard is worn long. As far as I had 
 opportunity to observe, the priests are men pf vulgar 
 manners, — many of them are filthy in their dress and 
 persons, and would be taken for men without much 
 intelligence or education. 
 
 It would not be very hazardous to infer, from what 
 I have said of the character of the teachers of religion, 
 and of the dogmas upon which they lay the greatest 
 stress, that public morals are deficient in elevation and 
 purity. I, however, saw nothing to induce me to be- 
 lieve that the Greeks are essentially worse than their 
 western neighbors. From certain vices, which flourish 
 only in connection with luxury and great wealth, they 
 are, of course, nearly exempt. Their females lead 
 quiet and retired, and may we not hope exemplary 
 lives ? 
 
 The only theatre in Greece is still in an unfinished 
 
Public Morals. 
 
 75 
 
 state. Thus far, therefore, the country has been ex- 
 empted from a most potent corrupting influence. The 
 Greeks are commonly charged with dishonesty in their 
 deahngs, and with being, almost universally, liars. I 
 am sorry to say that I saw nothing which induced me 
 to question the correctness of this statement ; and I 
 much fear that this people are more deplorably deficient 
 in integrity and- veracity than any of the nations of 
 western Europe. These are vices that are nurtured by 
 oppression and servitude. The Greeks have been 
 trained in this school for many generations. An age 
 of liberty, if Providence shall deign to admit them to 
 such a privilege, or even of a regular administration of 
 tyranny, — of which they have some tolerable prospect, 
 — may work a great change for the better in this 
 respect. I saw more instances of drunkenness in 
 Greece than I saw in France and Italy during a much 
 longer residence. Compared with Americans, how- 
 ever, they must not be called intemperate. This is a 
 vice that does not legitima,tely belong to their soft and 
 genial climate. Bobberies are still very common, and 
 seem hardly to be regarded as crimes here. A Greek 
 speaks of having followed this profession with perfect 
 unconcern, and he finds employment as a laborer or a 
 servant as readily as if he had been bred to peaceful 
 avocations. This is one of "the fruits of civil wars, 
 which so long desolated the country. A generation 
 must pass away before rapine and bloodshed will be 
 viewed ^vith merited detestation and horror. 
 
 Education receives the encouragement of the gov- 
 ernment, and the people manifest great eagerness to 
 
76 
 
 Education. 
 
 secure to their children the benefit of schools. The 
 University of Otho, at Athens, has two hundred stu- 
 dents in the several departments of study. Twenty- 
 seven professors give lectures in the modern Greek 
 language. A library of considerable extent has been 
 secured, chiefly by donations from Europe ; and col- 
 lections in natural history are commenced. Six or 
 seven of these professors are Germans — the rest are 
 Greeks, who have had a European, mostly an Italian 
 education. To diminish the expenses of the establish- 
 ment, many of the professors hold other ofiices under 
 the Government. Students are here from Macedonia, ^ 
 Asia Minor, and Constantinople. 4 
 
 More than, two hundred attend the lectures, which f 
 are in modern Greek. I have heard several anecdotes ^ 
 
 of the sacrifices and poverty of the students, which i 
 
 indicate a degree of enterprise and stubborn pur- 
 pose that would do honor to New-England, As yet, 
 no suitable building has been provided to accom- 
 modate the University. The foundations of such an 
 edifice have been laid, and an appeal made to the 
 friends of Greece in Europe and the United States, for 
 the means of completing it. Very liberal subscriptions 
 have been obtained in Greece for the same purpose. 
 
 The funds of the State are too much embarrassed to 
 accomplish this important object. The University 
 has a department for the instruction of teachers. 
 
 There are three hundred schools, of various grades, 
 in different parts of Greece, — many, perhaps most of 
 them, are on the Lancastrian plan. The school in J 
 
 Patras has three hundred scholars, and one in Argos { 
 
 t 
 
 t 
 
Schools. 
 
 77 
 
 has about that number. Every town and village is 
 required to have a school. The Government aids in 
 their support only when there exists an inability on 
 the part of the people to provide for the necessary ex- 
 pense. The plan, though designed to be uniformly 
 adopted, is, as yet, but partially carried out, as is ob- 
 vious from the' number of schools, — ^three hundred, in 
 a population of eight hundred thousand, being a very 
 inadequate supply. 
 
 A number of schools are sustained by contributions 
 from abroad. That of the Kev. Mr. and Mrs. Hill, in 
 Athens, is the most important. It has six hundred pu- 
 pils of all ages, and of both sexes. Mrs. Hill has three 
 or four assistants besides Greeks. She has pupils from 
 Asia Minor and Constantinople. The school establish- 
 ed by the Eev. Mr. Kobertson in Syra, is now conducted 
 by a missionary in the employment of the Church of 
 England, and is said to be flourishing. Finally, the 
 missionaries of the American Board of Commissioners 
 for Foreign Missions have a prosperous school in Sparta 
 — one of the most savage parts of Greece, where such 
 an enterprise falls strictly within the proper sphere and 
 character of missionary work. Many other schools 
 are supported by the Greeks themselves, by voluntary 
 contributions. 
 
 Upon the whole, the interests of education are high- 
 ly appreciated, and have made a gratifying progress.* 
 
 * There are in Greece at this time (1854) three hundred and thirty- 
 eight primary schools for boys, and forty-nine for girls, attended, the 
 former by thirty-three thousand eight hundred and sixty-four boys, 
 and the latter by six thousand three hundred and twenty-three 
 
78 
 
 Agencies for Good. 
 
 ■ It is a circumstance of no small moment that the New 
 Testament is the most common book in all the schools, 
 native and foreign. The Avant of suitable books was a 
 serious obstacle to the success of the first attempt in 
 behalf of education. The liberality of individuals, but 
 chiefiy of the Bible Societies of England and America, 
 has supplied this want in the best possible manner. 
 The children of Greece are imbibing the pure truths 
 of the gospel from the uncorrupt and living fountain. 
 The blessing of God may make this the means of pu- 
 rifying the Church, and of introducing a pure and sav- 
 ing Christianity. The American Board of Foreign 
 Missions has four missionaries here, laboring with a 
 zeal and fidelity for which the agents of that society 
 are everywhere proverbial. Two are stationed at 
 Athens, whose chief business is the 'publication and 
 distribution, by sale and donation, of Bibles and relig- 
 ious books. From this source the schools of Greece 
 receive a large supply of valuable publications. This 
 is, perhaps, the most hopeful of the influences that are 
 now active for the regeneration of Greece. Dr. King, 
 the pious and veteran missionary, also preaches to a 
 
 girls. There are eighty-six secondary ancient Greek schools, with one 
 hundred and fifty-eight teachers, and four thousand three hundred 
 and eighty-three pupils ; seven gymnasiums or superior schools, with 
 forty professors, and one thousand and seventy-seven pupils ; and a 
 university, with thirty-nine professors, and five hundred and ninety 
 students. Besides these, there is a Normal school for the formation 
 of schoolmasters, an ecclesiastical seminary, besides the faculty of 
 theology, a polytechnic school, a school of agriculture, and other 
 establishments necessary for instruction, such as the National Li- 
 brary, the Botanic Garden, the Astronomical Observatory, cud the 
 museums. The State expends yearly for public instructiQB, $701,673. 
 
Agencies for Good. 
 
 79 
 
 small Greek congregation. His excellent colleague, 
 the Kev. Mr. Benjamin, is wholly employed in pro- 
 ducing good books. No particular encouragement has 
 as yet attended the preaching of the gospel to this peo- 
 ple. Still, as the appointed and honored means estab- 
 lished by Christ, it is entitled always to the first place 
 amongst the agencies to be employed for the salvation 
 of the heathen as well as Christian world.' As yet, the 
 circulation of books, including the Holy Scriptures, 
 must be regarded only in the character of an experi- 
 ment — an experiment indeed of high and sacred inter- 
 est — yet but an experiment, which God may honor by 
 imparting an efficiency commensurate with the vast ex- 
 tent to which it has been adopted by His peojDle ; — or 
 he may dishonor and reject it, to manifest more fully 
 the superior dignity and importance of the living min- 
 istry, which Christ has himself ordained. For this, the 
 Church, nothing slothful in the great work which it 
 has prayerfully begun, should yet be prepared. 
 
 I am not aware of the mode of action adopted by 
 the missionary from the Baptist Board in the United 
 States, stationed in Patras. I did not see him when in 
 that cit}^, not having been informed of his residence 
 till at a subsequent period. 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 
 OTH O . 
 
 The success of the means used for the moral eleva- 
 tion of thi“=i kingdom, is so dependent upon the gov- 
 ernment of ui .e country, as to make the unpromising 
 tendencies of King Otho’s rule a subject of lively re- 
 gret to those, who usually abstain from all participation 
 in politics. There is in Greece a government and a lib- 
 eral party, — the latter is almost universally favorable 
 to the efforts made by American and English Chris- 
 tians to enlighten the people ; the former is believed to 
 be decidedly hostile to all such foreign interference. 
 
 The king, though absolute, is not sufficiently firm in 
 his position to manifest active or open enmity. Per- 
 haps he is unjustly suspected, and may yet prove a 
 friend to measures, connected certainly with the best 
 interests of his people. 
 
 It- is well known that Otho was selected, when yet a 
 boy, to be king of Greece, ostensibly that he might 
 receive an education suited to his future position. A 
 regency administered the government during his mi- 
 nority. Its blunders were gross — its oppressive meas 
 ures bore hard upon the prosperity as well as the 
 
Otiio. 
 
 81 
 
 spirit of Greece. Still there was hope in the early as- 
 sumption of the reins of government by the king. The 
 people had been taught to expect the promulgation of 
 a liberal constitution, and the establishment of a repre- 
 sentative body by which their wishes might be heard 
 and their wrongs redressed. 
 
 In the meantime, the young Otho, whose crown was 
 held in abeyance till he should learn how to rule, 
 drank in the principles of absolutism. His accession 
 to power brought to the expectant Greeks no guaran- 
 ties for liberty, nor even for security. They have 
 clamored for representation to the present moment, 
 but without success, and with some faltering of hope. 
 They have succeeded in getting rid of the largest 
 part of the mercenary Bavarian army, which the king, 
 with an incredible fatuity, had brought for the security 
 of his throne against the brave people, who had invit- 
 ed him to rule over them. But one Bavarian minister 
 is left, though many are still engaged in the subordi- 
 nate offices. These sacrifices have been made to allay 
 the popular feeling, which was greatly excited by a 
 policy that regarded the Greeks, who had just shaken 
 off the Turkish yoke by prodigies of valor and incred- 
 ible sacrifices, as a conquered race, and sought to make 
 them an appendage to a third-rate German State. 
 
 The army of mercenaries has, however, been replaced 
 by one of natives, ten thousand strong, the largest, in 
 proportion to the population which supports it, known 
 in the civilized world. 
 
 The taxes imposed under the Turkish rule have 
 been variously and greatly increased, whilst the annoy- 
 
 4 -^ 
 
82 Oppressive Taxation. 
 
 ing and ruinous mode of collection remains unchanged. 
 A revenue of fourteen millions of Drachmas, nearly 
 two and a half millions of dollars, is paid by eight 
 hundred thousand people, the poorest perhaps on the 
 face of the earth, and inhabiting one of the most sterile 
 regions of the globe — a people without manufactures, 
 without trade, and nearly without agriculture. Two 
 millions only result from duties levied on commerce. 
 Twelve millions press upon the agriculture of the coun- 
 try. The tax is collected in kind, and. amounts to a 
 tythe of the products of the land. The produce of the 
 worst land, of which a large part or the whole of the 
 value has been expended in the culture, pays in the 
 same proportion with that of the best, which has yield- 
 ed the most abundant profits. The taxes are farmed, 
 and the purchaser, who is his own collector, has a dis- 
 cretionary power, which he does not fail to abuse to 
 the oppression of the poor peasant. 
 
 The grain is carried, before threshing, to a public 
 floor, to prevent concealment or fraud. The farmer’s 
 tenth is then carried to the market, if not more than 
 six leagues, by the peasant, who has also to carry home 
 his own part of the wheat — his straw and chaff. Count 
 also the loss in carrying wheat in the bundle on the 
 backs of mules, for there are no roads, and some esti- 
 mate may be formed of the oppression of this most 
 barbarous and wicked system. It is from a treasure 
 thus obtained, that the King takes a hundred and 
 twenty millions of drachmas for his own expenses, and 
 to build a splendid marble palace, expected to cost five 
 millions of dollars. Since his accession, a tolerable 
 
Despotic Government. 83 
 
 / 
 
 road of about twenty -five or thirty miles has been made. 
 Besides tins, there is none in Greece upon which a cart 
 can pass. There are no carriages except in Athens, 
 Nauplia, and Argos. It was well said to nie by an 
 intelligent Greek gentleman, “ The Bavarians have 
 placed the huge saddle of a camel upon the back of a 
 poor donkey.” The people bear a system so intolerably 
 oppressive, partly from fear of foreign interference 
 should they resist — ^partly from a dread of anarchy, 
 from which they have suffered evils even worse than 
 those of tyranny — and partly from the hope of melior- 
 ation, by the final introduction of representation, 
 which they believe a press yet partially free, and the 
 growing intelligence of the country, will finally ex- 
 tort from the ruling power without bloodshed. 
 
 In the meantime the king uses, and will use the 
 means, which are always at hand, to fortify his power 
 and silence opposition. He has ofiices to bestow ; and 
 the Greeks — the best of them — are too poor to resist 
 such attacks upon their independence. The attractions 
 of Court, few and poverty-stricken though they must 
 be — ^have yet a seductive power over persons of a cer- 
 tain class, and are not without their influence upon 
 the public mind. The progress, too, of time and 
 events, along with .a growing despair of realizing the 
 bright anticipations of freedom which cheered the 
 Greeks in the field of battle, will produce its sedative 
 influences, — ^in some, a sullen indifference, — in others, 
 an oblivious contentment, — in all, a growing indispo- 
 sition to distrust a system of government which has 
 the advantage of being established, and which gives a 
 
84 
 
 A Degraded People. 
 
 sort of security to person and property, without being 
 utterly inconsistent' with some degree of social and 
 domestic enjoyment. 
 
 Some facts have come to my knowledge, which show 
 that security for property is at best imperfect. When 
 King Otho laid out the grounds preparatory to the 
 erection of his palace, he paid no attention to private 
 property. Amongst others, he appropriated the land 
 
 of Mr. F , an Englishman, and that of Mr. , a 
 
 citizen of the United States ; and this without consulting 
 them — without having made them any compensation, 
 though several years have since elapsed, and this 
 act of justice has been repeatedly solicited at his 
 hands. Such an act of lawless oppression would shake 
 the throne of the sternest despot in civilized Europe. 
 In Greece, where first principles are still to be settled, 
 it only excites some complaints. 
 
 It must not be forgotten that the king of Greece' has 
 a most difficult part to perform. It is no easy thing to 
 adapt a system of laws and administration to a people, 
 degraded and demoralized by centuries of such oppress- 
 ion as Turkey has exercised over Greece. Men, long 
 habituated to a government of caprice, violence and 
 injustice, learn servility, disloyalty, treachery and 
 cunniog ; and they should not be expected to adopt 
 suddenly the practice, or even the semblance of the 
 opposite virtues. Greece is essentially barbarized. 
 She has not — she could not by any possibility possess 
 the qualifications which fit a people for republican in- 
 stitutions. Great, and, in many instances, insuperable 
 difficulties have been met with in attempting to replace 
 
Liberty of the Press 85 
 
 the half-feudal, half-robber municipal regulations which 
 prevailed under the Turkish rule, by a system bor- 
 rowed chiefly from the French code. 
 
 The press is not legally free, but it is so in fact. 
 The French system is adopted. A publisher must de- 
 posit a large sum of money to pay fines, if he shall 
 incur such a penalty, and a responsible editor is an- 
 swerable to the tribunals for all that appears in his 
 paper. The affair is managed thus : a company having 
 raised the money requisite for the deposit, some person 
 who will endure imprisonment for moderate pay, com- 
 monly an indigent student, is announced as editor. 
 The paper is conducted in a free and fearless spirit, 
 canvassing public measures without restraint, only 
 avoiding what may be personally offensive to the king. 
 If trouble arises, the vicarious editor is ready to go to 
 jail, where he can still pursue his studies, make some 
 money, and fare better than he does elsewhere. It is 
 said the office is rather coveted. An untrammelled 
 press is a check upon an arbitrary government, and no 
 doubt the best substitute for a representative assembly, 
 to which I think it must ultimately lead, if its freedom 
 be not stifled. 
 
 The people have been unfit to exercise the elective 
 franchise, even in the humble sphere of village ap- 
 pointments ; and the petty functionaries, upon whom 
 they confer the power, seldom fail to practise the les- 
 sons of tyranny, peculation and bribery, which they 
 learned from their old masters. I had these facts 
 from a gentleman of great intelligence, familiar with 
 the internal condition of Greece, and withal a liberal. 
 
S6 Policy of the King. 
 
 who wishes the establishment of representative gov- 
 ernment. He deems it, however, as many of the best 
 friends of the nation do, an evil only of less magni- 
 tude than the unenlightened despotism, which now 
 presses like an incubus upon the country. Doubtless, 
 many allowances are to be made for the young king, 
 who has to choose between such evils. Birth and edu- 
 cation have prepared him to lean towards absolutism. 
 With all the good intentions which his friends claim 
 for him, and which even his enemies concede, it is 
 morally impossible that he should possess the requisite 
 knowledge of the people, and of the condition of the 
 country, to govern wisely. He has no means of 
 becoming acquainted with the public wants — no ex- 
 perience which would enable him to adapt the meas- 
 ures of his government to the exigencies of a people, 
 where everything is to be created de novo ^ — ^habits and 
 character, as well as intentions. 
 
 Compelled to dismiss those counsellors upon whom 
 he naturally relied, and who did not fail to demon- 
 strate that, however hacknied in the state dogmas of 
 European absolutism, they were unfit to make laws 
 for Greece, he has selected others, who probably lack 
 his confidence no less than that of the nation. This 
 has thrown him upon his own very scanty resources. 
 He is believed to originate all the measures of govern- 
 ment himself, not because he is competent to legislate, 
 but because his ministers are even less so. The odium 
 of unpopular measures must hereafter rest upon the 
 sovereign. He has lost one advantage by the dismissal 
 of the Bavarians. Yet this act, which was certainly 
 
Policy of the King. 
 
 87 
 
 one of necessity, ought also to be regarded in the more 
 favorable light of a sacrifice to the wishes or to the 
 prejudices of his people. 
 
 The favor extended by the king to public education,' 
 is another bright feature in his policy. In some minor 
 things, he seems not disinclined to conciliate the re- 
 gards of his subjects. He has adopted their national 
 costume. . Though a Catholic, and of the most bigoted 
 Catholic stock in Europe, he assists at the religious 
 ceremonies of the Greek church on certain occasions. 
 In more favorable circumstances, he would probably 
 be neither worse nor better than his father, and other 
 more absolute kings. He but follows their example in 
 taxing the people to the full extent of their ability to 
 pay, in improving the capital and neglecting the rest 
 of his kingdom, and in providing for the gratification 
 of his luxury and vanity, by the erection of a sumptu- 
 ous palace, such as might have suited Louis XIY. or 
 Catherine of Kussia, together with several other edifices 
 of great utility, but beyond the resources of the 
 country. 
 
 f 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 
 NATIONAL EXPENSES. 
 
 Of all the improvements desirable and possible in 
 the system of government which now presses upon 
 this unhappy country, the diminution of the taxes 
 seems to me the most indispensable. How it can be 
 effected it is difficult to conjecture. The ]3ublic debt 
 is considerable, and neither principal nor interest is 
 paid. Yet the annual receipts of the treasury fall 
 short of the expenditure by two millions of drachmas. 
 The army is the most expensive part of the public 
 establishment. The amount of the civil list, though 
 much less considerable, is so disproportioned to the 
 resources of the kingdom, that the grievance is even 
 greater than the oppression. No retrenchment can be 
 expected in this quarter. The maintenance of royal ' 
 dignity and splendor is deemed doubly important 
 when it has no basis of public alTection and coufi- 
 dencc. The same considerations will probably pre- 
 vent any reduction of the army — the most enormous 
 abuse under which Greece at present suffers. This 
 army of a thousand men Ls equal, taking the popula- 
 tion at eighty thousand, to one soldier to eighty in- 
 habitants. 
 
National Kesources. 89 
 
 This army is independent of a considerable police 
 force, which is indispensable, and of the national 
 guards. The revenue at fourteen million drachmas, 
 equals about three dollars per head, or fifteen dollars 
 to each family. This is less than is paid in Great 
 Britain and France, but taking into view the extreme 
 poverty of Greece, it is a higher rate of taxation by 
 far than is known in civilized Europe, and sufiicient, I 
 am confident, to prevent any considerable'progress in 
 wealth and civilization. It is in this view that I con- 
 sider heavy taxes the worst part of the system of King 
 Otho. 
 
 I have been disappointed in Greece. With regard 
 to its historical and classic interest, and its ancient re- 
 mains, my expectations have been more than realized. 
 It is on these grounds, the precise region which an ed- 
 ucated man would desire to see above any part of the 
 world. , It is with regard to its resources and present 
 condition, that I had been misled by the numerous ac- 
 /Counts of the country, which have been read with so 
 much avidity in America since the revolt from Turkey. 
 I think these accounts have generally been colored by 
 a certain enthusiasm, natural enough, and perhaps al- 
 lowable in the writers, but not very favorable to the 
 purposes of such readers as seek for accurate infor- 
 mation. 
 
 It would not be easy to give a stranger an adequate 
 idea of the poverty of the country. In the first place, 
 the whole kingdom contains only a little more than 
 thirty thousand square miles, about as much as Vir- 
 ginia or Missouri. Of this area, three -fourths at least 
 
90 Poverty OF the Country. 
 
 are composed of barren rocks, which are incapable of 
 tillage. From Albania to Negropont, the whole sea- 
 coast of Greece is encumbered with a continuous chain 
 of rugged, bare mountains — ^literally naked rocks with- 
 out trees or verdure, and perfectly destitute of soil. 
 Within this mountain wall, which encompasses the 
 whole kingdom, there are many fertile valleys and a 
 few plains of a large extent. In several instances, the 
 hills and the declivities of the mountains are suscepti- 
 ble of a laborious and expensive tillage by means - of 
 terraces. 
 
 The plain of Argos contains, it may be, fifty square 
 miles of good land. The arable part of that of Lavidia 
 is less extensive, but very productive in wheat, cotton, 
 tobacco, and rice. Boeotia has a large region of excel- 
 lent land — now, as it was anciently, the best part of 
 Greece. The tracts of good land here enumerated, are 
 always spoken of as the best as well as the most con- 
 siderable in Greece. I travelled about three hundred 
 miles in the interior, and, judging from what I saw, as 
 well as from all I could learn from many intelligent resi- 
 dents in the country, I am persuaded that the arable 
 land in the whole kingdom is not equal to half a 
 dozen counties in the United States. More than that 
 is under cultivation, but I speak cT land suited to the 
 plough, and of fertility to reward its labor. A multi- 
 tude of little patches, tilled with the spade or hoe, are 
 found in various situations. Corn or vines or olives 
 are grown on terraces. Considerable portions of the ^ 
 interior mountain districts afford a scanty herbage, 
 upon which flocks of sheep and goats are subsisted. 
 
Cultivation of the Land. 91 
 
 One-fourth part of the whole country — possibly a 
 third, though I think not — ^}:>ossesses a measure of those 
 facilities out of which a hardy and abstemioas race of 
 men, impelled by dire necessity, learn to force a mea- 
 gre and barbarous subsistence. Greece, as is well 
 known, imports a large part of its corn, as well as all 
 the manufactures which it consumes. The exports, 
 chiefly of currants, amount to two million drachmas. 
 Whilst many parts of the country, little fitted for agri- 
 culture, are laboriously tilled for very scanty returns, 
 scarcely one-half of the arable land is occupied. Two- 
 thirds of the good land belong to the State. It was 
 public property under the Turks, and was greatly 
 increased by confiscations upon their exports from 
 Greece. 
 
 A small part of this government land is tilled by 
 tenants, who rent from the king ; but for the most part 
 it lies waste, overrun with thorns and brambles. The 
 shepherds bring their flocks hither, when the exhaus- 
 tion of the mountain ranges drives them to winter in 
 the valleys. Cultivators prefer to rent the lands of 
 private persons, who make advances of capital in the 
 shape of seed-corn, implements, and stock. This the 
 government does not do, and the lower rent at which 
 its lands are offered do not compensate for the want of 
 these facilities, in a country where the tenants are ex- 
 tremely poor. 
 
 A system has been adopted for the sale of the pub- 
 lic lands, but hitherto it has had little success. The 
 lands are offered at public auction to the highest bid- 
 der. The sum thus ofiered is payable in instalments 
 
 / 
 
92 Scanty Gtrowth.of Timber. 
 
 of nine per cent, per annum for thirty years, when the 
 land is granted in- fee to the purchaser. Thus thirty 
 years are necessary to perfect a title, which in most in- 
 stances must devolve upon another generation. Few 
 sales would be effected on such terms even in countries, 
 where the credit and stability of the government are 
 above suspicion. 
 
 One of the most striking features of Greece is its 
 want of wood. I travelled twelve days in the Morea 
 and Northern Greece, without seeing a single forest- 
 tree, with the exception of half a dozen stunted ones 
 from ten to twenty feet high in the island of Egina, 
 and an old plane-tree at Delphos. On the thirteenth 
 day I saw a few pines and planes near the Straits of 
 Negropont. On the road thence to Athens, one every 
 now and then secs a few bushes, and here and there a 
 stunted tree. I was cheered with the sight of a score 
 of venerable oaks on the northern declivity of Mount 
 Pentelicus. 
 
 I was told that some parts of the North of Greece 
 and the island of Negropont have a better supply of 
 timber. , With the exception of the oaks I have just 
 mentioned, I did not see a single tree fit for the pur- 
 poses of architecture and ship-building. Timber for 
 these purposes is imported from Trieste. Much of the 
 timber, it is said, as well as everything else of any 
 value, was destroyed by the Turks. I presume it was 
 very scarce before. A plentiful supply of fuel is ob- 
 tained from the uncultivated lands, where there is a 
 low growth of knotty, crooked bushes, which seem, 
 however, to have no tendency to become trees. These 
 
Poverty of the Country. 93 
 
 are cut up, or rather dug up, by the peasants, and car- 
 ried upon donkeys, often a great distance, to the vil- 
 lages and towns. ' 
 
 There is reason to believe that the mountains of 
 Greece were once clothed with wood and verdure, at 
 least to a much greater extent than now. The soil 
 has been gradually borne away by rains and torrents 
 into the valleys beneath, till nothing is left to alford 
 nutriment to vegetation. This is no doubt partly the 
 result and partly the cause of the disappearance of 
 forest-trees. Another result has been the drying up of 
 rivers and streams of water. One is perpetually pass- 
 ing over these dry beds, which are never full except 
 after long rains. Many rivers and streams of classical 
 and historical celebrity, and of great utility for econom- 
 ical purposes, no longer exist. Their dry and rocky 
 channels alone remain, to bear testimony to the vera- 
 city of ancient geographers, and to the important phys- 
 ical changes which have no doubt largely contributed 
 to increase the sterility of a country, which, however, 
 could never have been extensively adapted to agricul- 
 tural purposes. 
 
 I have spoken elsewhere of the scarcity of domestic 
 animals, with the exception of sheep. When, in addi- 
 tion to the physical and actual condition of Greece, it 
 is recollected that almost every species of moveable 
 and visible property — houses, money, stock in trade, 
 ships, and implements — were annihilated by the most 
 desolating war which history records, some adequate 
 notion may be formed of the extreme poverty of the 
 kingdom, and of its inability to bear a rate of taxation 
 
r 
 
 1 
 
 94 Domestic Habits. 
 
 which would be burthensome to a rich and advanced 
 people. It seems absolutely incredible that tha Greeks 
 should be able, by any sacrifices, to satisfy the exor- 
 bitant demands of the tax-gatherer. ' 
 
 We may better understand this subject by a consid- 
 eration of the domestic and economic habits of the 
 people. If -they lived as expensively as Americans, 
 or even Europeans, not only could they not pay their 
 taxes, but their sterile country could by no possibility 
 support them. As it is, there is room for a consider- 
 able increase of population. I think the daily expense 
 of one American would support five Greeks. They 
 eat no meat, and, with few exceptions, neither butter, 
 cheese, nor milk. A piece of black bread of the coarsest 
 and cheapest sort, and a few garlics or olives, consti- 
 tute their food — the whole cost of which for a day may 
 be four cents. 
 
 What I say on this subject is the conclusion derived 
 from careful observation and many inquiries. Our 
 servant and muleteers often ate nothing till after noon, 
 and said they were accustomed to such abstinence and 
 found no inconvenience from it. Other expenses arc 
 on much the same scale. The common Greek has no 
 costly furniture, neither table, chairs, nor beds, neither 
 floor, chimney, nor windows to his house. He has no 
 carriages nor carts, no barns nor outhouses. A hovel, 
 which demands no skill above his own for its construc- 
 tion, contains him and his family, his oxen, donkey, 
 &c. He is inured to filth and vermin, and to all the 
 privations implied in the destitution I have described. 
 His clothes are of the coarsest, cheapest sort. There 
 
Degradation of the People 95 
 
 are no higliways to Avhose construction and repair he 
 must contribute — no contributions, or next to none, to 
 build churches and school-houses, which are of the 
 same style with his dwelling. A benignant climate 
 renders this primitive, barbarous style of living, con- 
 sistent with the preservation of life and health. The 
 Greek, therefore, having no expensive wants of his 
 own, is able to contribute so largely of the meagre 
 product of his industry to satisfy the exorbitant de- 
 mands of his government, which, with the habits of 
 civihzed life, he could not possibly do. In this view, 
 it is the interest of the government to keep him what 
 he is, a stark barbarian, — an object which, whether 
 designed or not, will be pretty effectually secured, 
 by means as simple as the annual collection of the 
 revenue. ' 
 
 The standard of taste and comfort is degraded. No 
 wonder that centuries of oppression should have pro- 
 duced such results. Still, the flattering accounts which 
 had fallen under my notice had not prepared me for 
 so general a prevalence of degradation and barbar- 
 ism. Those who look and labor for the regeneration 
 of Greece, and her elevation to the dignity of a civil- 
 ized country, must have patience. Great changes 
 cannot be wrought hastily. It savors of a school-boy 
 enthusiasm to expect that, because in the days of 
 Pericles and Epaminondas, the Greeks were polished, 
 and highly civilized, the present occupants of the 
 country, who are perhaps as nearlj^ allied to many 
 tribes of barbarians, who have at different periods over- 
 run and occupied the classic land, as to the heroes of 
 
96 
 
 Moral'Influences. 
 
 Marathon and Platea, are to be suddenly invested with 
 the high attributes of moral, social, and intellectual 
 excellence, which are always of slow growth, and the 
 results of favorable circumstances, accompanied with 
 careful and long culture. In Athens, and some other 
 places, the intercourse of trade and commerce, and 
 still more, the settlement of a large number of foreign- 
 ers, may be expected to work a speedy and considera- 
 ble improvement; but many years, probably genera- 
 tions, will pass away before an effective civilization, 
 such as pervades the masses in the United States, and 
 in one or two of the nations of Europe, can reach the 
 interior and remote parts of Grreece. 
 
 I do not distrust the power of moral influences. In 
 proportion as these are multiplied and judiciously 
 directed, may we hope for the regeneration of the peo- 
 ple. Should it please God to revive Christianity in the 
 Greek church, all that I have said of obstacles and de- 
 lay should be greatly modified, or wholly rejected. 
 Unfortunately, there is not, as far as I can learn, any 
 very decisive indication of such a revival. With a 
 creed not very remote from the truth as it is in Jesus, 
 this church, to which the people are bhndly devoted, 
 has neither intellectual nor spiritual power for great 
 moral achievements. The foreign agencies are decid- 
 edly unequal to the wants of the country, nor have 
 they, as far as I can learn, been signalized by any very 
 marked token of the divine approbation. 
 
 Agriculture, and other branches of industry, have 
 been retarded by the want of capital. Money has 
 been sca,rce since the peace, though the disbursements 
 
Scarcity of Money. 
 
 97 
 
 of Europeans liave no doubt brought considerable 
 alleviation. Capital has also been imported into Greece 
 by the foreigners, chiefly Asiatic Greeks, and pthers, 
 who have invested it in building in Athens. Some 
 Europeans also have made purchases of pro^Derty, but 
 I think chiefly of the Turks, who left the country, and 
 were allowed, in northern Greece, to sell their land, 
 which in the Morea was confiscated. Still, great 
 inconvenience has been felt for want of funds, which 
 has been aggravated by the course of trade, — the im- 
 ports having exceeded the exports from two to three 
 or four-fold. The payment of interest on the foreign 
 loans, if that shall ever occur, will produce another 
 exhausting drain. No uniform rate of interest has 
 been adopted, or indeed could be, under such circum- 
 stances. It has ranged from 15 to 80 per cent., accord- 
 ing to the demand for money, and to the security 
 which the borrower was able to give. 
 
 The agent of a rich English house has arrived in 
 Athens, within the last two or three months, to obtain 
 permission from the government to establisli a bank on 
 English capital. A charter was granted, during my 
 stay in Greece, for a bank and a loaning institution. 
 The proprietors were allowed to take 8 per cent, on 
 loans secured by real estate, and 10 on ordinary dis- 
 counts. Sanguine expectations are entertained of the 
 good to be derived from this institution ; and, if prop- 
 erly and liberally conducted, it may tend greatly to 
 the encouragement of industry and enterprise. Many 
 land-owners are now obliged to permit their estates to 
 remain totally waste, for want of capital to put them 
 
 5 
 
98 Bank on English Capital. 
 
 in a state of cultivation. This class of persons, espe- 
 cially, is expected to derive great advantages from the 
 loans, whicji it will form a part of the business of the 
 new bank to advance upon mortgages. 
 
 Those who have observed the effect of these institu- 
 tions in other countries, in stimulating speculation and 
 producing ultimate embarrassments and bankruptcies, 
 will hardly expect that Greece will realize all the ad- 
 vantages so confidently anticipated from an institu- 
 tion which is hailed by them as the harbinger of un- 
 exampled prosperity, and even of the establishment of 
 a liberal legislation. This effect, it is thought, the 
 bank will indirectly produce, by giving rise to an 
 independent class of agricultural proprietors and culti- 
 vators, which can hardly be said at this time to exist. 
 
 The government has shown much doubt and inde- 
 cision as to the course it should adopt with regard to 
 the introduction of this monied interest into Greece. 
 After receiving the proposals of the English agent 
 favorably, and making considerable progress in the 
 arrangement of terms, unexpected obstacles arose, and 
 objections were multiplied. The removal of these 
 only tended to produce new ones, till at last the agent 
 became convinced that the government had no other 
 design but to defeat, by delay and management, an 
 entcrjDrise which, in the state of the country, and 
 especially with the exaggerated expectations of the 
 public, they were unwilling formally to reject. Under 
 this impression, he gave notice that, if the charter 
 should not be granted by a certain early day, which 
 was fixed, he would break off the negociation, and cm- 
 
Shallow Artifice. 
 
 99 
 
 bark for England. The day arrived without any news 
 from the ultimatum. He sent his baggage to the steam- 
 boat, and his family followed. The gentleman was 
 aecidentally delayed in his departure for a short time, 
 after he was expeeted to leave. At this moment the 
 permission so long sought for in vain was sent to his 
 hotel. Under all the eircumstances, it was universally 
 believed that it was the intention of the government to 
 defeat the enterprise by withholding the communiea- 
 tion until after his departure, and to eseape the odium 
 of rejecting a public advantage by this poor artifice. 
 
CHAPTER XI. 
 
 EGIN A. 
 
 November 3d. We left Athens at 8 in the morn- 
 ing, having engaged a boatman to take ns from the 
 Piraeus to Egina, and thence to Epidaurus, for which 
 we are to ]eay forty-three drachmas — about seven dol- 
 lars. Upon our arrival at the wharf, we met with a 
 vexatious delay of nearly two hours, and finally got 
 off at 11 o’clock. Our dragoman, Demetrius, bore it 
 more patiently than we. lie is hired by the day, and 
 it is his interest to prolong our journey by ^ all prac- 
 ticable means. He alleged some difficulty in procur- 
 ing the necessary papers at the health office, for these 
 profitable manoeuvres are practiced in young Greece 
 with a dexterity that would do credit to the hungry 
 employes of older governments. We had given the 
 man special orders to prevent delay by making due 
 provision the previous night, and as this was rather 
 an inauspicious commencement of operations, we gave 
 him a lecture upon his carelessness or bad faith, which I 
 hope may prove useful hereafter. Our boatmen steered 
 directly for an ancient temple upon Egina, which was 
 the chief object of our visit, but after we had ap- 
 
Heavy Gale. 
 
 101 
 
 proaclied within three or four miles of the landing- 
 place, 'they sheered off to the right for the harbor of 
 Egina, which was at the distance of ten miles, alleging 
 that there was no good anchorage nearer, and in spite 
 of all our remonstrances, refused to attempt a landing. 
 This adds one day at least to our voyage, since we 
 must visit the temple on horseback to-morrow, and 
 then proceed to Epidaurus, instead of reaching that 
 place to-night, according to our original plan. We 
 thought this change unnecessary, and did not fail to 
 remonstrate against it earnestly. It, however, turned 
 out for the best. 
 
 The light, changeful breezes, by which we had been 
 baffled and delayed, became after an hour a heavy 
 gale, which tossed our frail bark to and fro at its will. 
 We secured ourselves as well as we might from the 
 cold, suddenly become very piercing, by creeping un- 
 der the deck and covering ourselves with our quilts. 
 We were soon intolerably sick from the motion of the 
 boat, and, I apprehend, in no little danger. The boat 
 was small, though of the usual size of Greek craft 
 employed upon these coasts. With little ballast, — 
 of sand covered with gravel, upon which we spread 
 our quilts under a deck raised about three feet above 
 the primitive floor, the sails were of enormous di- 
 mensions, and either from want of force or skill, our 
 padrone and his three assistants, two of whom were 
 boys, managed them with great difficulty, which was 
 of course greatly increased, as it became necessary to 
 tack frequently, and the sea was greatly agitated by 
 the furious blast. It was eight o’clock in the evening 
 
102 
 
 Group of Sleepers. 
 
 when we landed at Egina, though the distance from 
 the Piraeus is estimated at only eighteen miles, and 
 we had embarked at 9j, and sailed at 10 J A. M. We 
 sent Demetrius on shore to engage a place to sleep 
 upon the floor of the only inn in the place — the only ac- 
 commodation of the kind in Greece, with the exception 
 of Athens, where we found tolerable hotels, and as we 
 have been informed, Patras and Napoli di Koma. Our 
 messenger soon returned with the unpleasant tidings 
 that the tavern was occupied by revellers and dancers, 
 and could not afford even this poor accommodation. 
 
 We at length found shelter in what passes for a 
 coffee-house — a wretched place without a floor or any 
 other comfort, except a roof and a few rough chairs. 
 The front room, the best in the house, is partly paved 
 with pebbles. The family and the lodgers were al- 
 ready gone io rest upon a bench of convenient width 
 and height, that extended around three sides of this 
 apartment. They were stretched one after another 
 upon the bare plank, covered* with their garments, and 
 some with their hooded capotes of thick hairy cloth, 
 and gaudily trimmed according to the fashion of the 
 country. I observed that they had no pillows, or sub- 
 stitute for them, but laid their heads upon the bench, 
 of course considerably below the horizontal position 
 of the body. They slept soundly, however, and seen 
 by the glimmering light of a small lamp suspended in 
 the middle of the room, the group was picturesque. 
 
 We were shown into a back room used for cook- 
 ing, and occupied by old tubs, barrels, utensils, fuel, 
 lime, })ilcs of vegetables, with nameless kinds of filth. 
 
EgIN A. 
 
 103 
 
 wliicli we had neither time nor inclination to investi- 
 gate very closely. In one corner of this room was an 
 elevated platform, where Mr. and Mrs. C. spread their 
 bed. In another was a low arch, not unlike an enor- 
 mous oven, in which an old table had been placed 
 apparently as a receptacle for such unsightly objects 
 as it did not comport with their style of housekeeping 
 to place in more conspicuous positions. Here, after 
 Demetrius had performed some ablutions with an old 
 broom, I contrived to spread a thick cotton quilt, 
 which I had bought in Athens, to answer the purpose 
 of mattress, sheets, and all other appliances of a bed, 
 and with my cloak tightly rolled for a pillow, I soon 
 fell asleep, and enjoyed for several hours a profound 
 repose, such as I had not had for many months. , Un- 
 fortunately, the customers who were asleep when we 
 came in after eight o’clock, began to rise at three, and 
 I was disturbed by the landlord, who came to kindle a 
 fire and make coffee for his guests. There was no 
 more quiet for the rest of the night. 
 
 November 4th. The harbor of Egina, where we 
 landed last night, is fit only for small craft, for which 
 it seems to be safe. A few only were visible, not more 
 than fifteen or twenty, with fishing-boats of still small- 
 er dimensions. There is little appearance of trade, 
 though the town is said to possess more comm.erce 
 than it formerly did, and to have, as well as the whole 
 island, an increased population. This, however, can- 
 not amount to more than a few hundreds. The houses 
 are several of them well built, at least for Greece, 
 where all that is old, even so old as twenty or thiTty 
 
104 
 
 Rocky Soil. 
 
 
 years, is in ruins, and wliat is new is generally of tlic 
 slightest and cheapest construction. The chief build- 
 ing in the j)lace.is a very extensive structure of stone^ 
 erected, during the administration of Capo d’lstria, for 
 a seminary of education. 
 
 It might from its appearance accommodate several 
 hundred students, but it is now unoccupied, and is 
 likely to be so, as it is superseded by another institu- 
 tion of the same kind — a school of industry which has 
 been established at Athens. Another building, which 
 I took for the town-hall or court-house, is also substan- 
 tially built and of considerable dimensions. 
 
 The region back of the town to the extent of two 
 or three miles, is nearly level, and, possessing the ad- 
 vantage of a fruitful soil, is well cultivated in vegeta- 
 bles, grain, vines, and olives. Considerable quantities 
 of vegetables are sent to the Athenian market. Im- 
 mediately behind this fruitful plane rise lofty, sterile 
 mountains, like those which constitute all the islands 
 as well as the mainland of Greece, so far as I liavo 
 seen it. These, however, are interspersed with many 
 valleys of small extent, yet susceptible of tillage. The 
 sides of the mountain^, too, when not quite bare of 
 soil, are terraced with much labor, and planted with 
 olives or sown in grain. Upon the whole, Egina is 
 better cultivated and seems to be more productive than 
 Attica. 
 
 Some travellers speak of it as a fruitful garden, rich 
 in the products of a genial soil. I saw little in pass- 
 ing through the island to justify these praises. It has 
 the general appearance of sterility, and the larger por- 
 
Aerial Town. 
 
 105 
 
 tion of its surface is incapable of tillage. The rest is 
 nearly all covered with stones, and at the depth of 
 only a few inches in many places where excavation 
 had been made, all is solid rock. The scarcity of 
 water must render irrigation impracticable to any 
 great extent. Considerable industry is exhibited in 
 cultivating what is tillable, and several comfortable 
 cottages and good farms are seen in different parts of 
 the route to the ruins of the temple of Jupiter Panhel- 
 linius, which is nearly at the opposite end of the 
 island from the port, the road passing nearly through 
 its centre. 
 
 It is not indeed a road, being hardly practicable for 
 foot passengers. It is a steep, narrow, rocky pathway, 
 winding in every direction along gullies and preci- 
 pices. No labor is employed to keep it in repair, and 
 it was obviously made at ffrst, as it is now maintained, 
 by the feet of the donkey and human beings who 
 travel it. 
 
 About half way between the present town and the 
 temple, are the ruins of another Egina, built by the 
 Venetians. It was built near the top and on the almost 
 perpendicular side of a conical mountain. This place 
 could have been chosen only for the security which a 
 citadel occupying the pinnacle of the mountain afford- 
 ed to the city below, which it overlooks, as indeed 
 every house completely overlooks the one immediately 
 below it. No carriage of course ever ascended this 
 aerial town, and it must have been nearly impossible 
 for loaded donkeys to do so, though it is difficult to say 
 what these hardy, docile animals may not be trained 
 
106 
 
 Magnificent View. 
 
 tO' achieve in the way of climbing. Two or three 
 houses seem still to be occupied. The rest are unroof- 
 ed, and the most of the walls have fallen in. I ob- 
 served one church, which seemed to be kept in repair. 
 This town was deserted to build the one upon the 
 shore, which is every way superior in position and 
 commercial advantages. It occupies the site of the 
 ancient Egina, though no ruins are visible, with the 
 exception of a single marble column, a few rods north 
 of the limits of the town, supposed to have belonged 
 to a heathen temple. 
 
 The ruins of the temple of Jupiter Panhellenius was 
 *the chief object of our visit to Egina. It is situated 
 near the eastern end of the island, here not more than 
 a mile wide, upon the ridge that rises nearly equi-dis- 
 tant between the northern and southern- shores. The 
 hill is of considerable elevation, but it is overlooked 
 by those which lie near it, both east and west. It is, 
 and, for aught that appears, always was, remote from 
 human habitations. The ascent is easy, and the view 
 one of the most magnificent that can be conceived. 
 It embraces nearly the whole island of Egina, with its 
 precipitous, rocky mountains and deep valleys. To 
 the north are Athens and the Piraeus, together with the 
 splendid ruins of the Acropolis. The mountains of 
 Attica, and the coast as far as Sunium, the island and 
 gulf of Salamis, with its numerous smaller islets, and the 
 coast of the Morea, are seen from the same side. On 
 the south, the view is scarcely less extensive, though 
 certainly the objects are less imposing. They include. 
 
Temple of Jupiter Paniiellenius. 107 
 
 however, Ilyclra and several other islands, the shores 
 of Peloponnesus, and a vast extent of sea. 
 
 This temple is represented to be one of the oldest in 
 Greece, and the gray porous stone of which it was con- 
 structed give to its remaining columns, corroded as 
 they are by time, the appearance of hoary age beyond 
 any ruins I have "elsewhere seen. These columns, 
 originally thirty- six in number, twelve on each side 
 and six at the ends, besides two rows of smaller ones 
 in the interior, of which many pieces remain, though 
 all are fallen, are about nine feet in circumference at 
 the base. They are of the Doric order, — each has 
 twenty flutings, which are therefore a little less than 
 six inches wide. Twenty -three of these columns are 
 yet standing. 
 
 The eastern front is unbroken, and, seen at a little 
 distance, the columns appear to be perfect, though, 
 upon a close inspection, they are found to be consider- 
 ably abraded. Their solidity is unimpaired, and, with- 
 out some convulsion of nature, they may stand two 
 thousand five hundred years more — a memorial of the 
 taste and genius of the ancient Greeks. Twenty-two 
 of these columns are surmounted by huge blocks of 
 the same species of stone, constituting the architrave 
 of the temple, which is thus far entire, though the cor- 
 nice and frieze, formed of less massive materials, have 
 all fallen and disappeared. They have probably been 
 carried away by antiquaries and amateurs to adorn the 
 galleries of Europe. 
 
 Portions of them are said to have been purchased by 
 the King of Bavaria, and now adorn his mil|eum at 
 
108 Temple of Jupiter Panhellenius. 
 
 Munich. When this sale took place, I know not. 
 Who, it might be asked, has a right to dispose of 
 these precious remains of antiquity. Is it possible 
 that the government of Greece has increased its reve- 
 nues by the sale of what should be considered the most 
 valuable resources of this poor and exhausted country ? 
 It is a disgrace and a crime to have perpetrated or to 
 have connived at such a transaction, and it is hardly 
 credible that such a lover and patron of the fine arts 
 as the King of Bavaria is known to be, should have 
 been a participator in it. He is understood to have 
 neglected the more important interests of his kingdom 
 in his zeal for the promotion of architecture, sculpture, 
 and painting, and it would be peculiarly unfortunate 
 for his reputation, should he fix upon it the stigma of 
 having robbed the dominion of his son of any of those 
 inimitable works of art which constitute their peculiar 
 attraction, and may, if left to their rightful owners, 
 the Greek nation, have a decided influence in acceler- 
 ating their return to wealth and civilization. 
 
 This temple had its front to the east, where a large 
 part of the ancient pavement remains entire. The 
 ascent to it was by three steps, which are also in good 
 preservation. They are little calculated for the com- 
 fort of those who may ascend them, being nearly a 
 foot and a half in height. It is remarkable that in all 
 these public edifices, the Greeks had more regard for 
 symmetry than convenience. The steps leading into 
 the Parthenon, are nearly two feet in height. It is ob- 
 vious that these- must harmonize with the magnitude 
 of such structures far better than such as have more 
 
Size of Ancient Temples. 109 
 
 adaptation to convenience. It may be said that these 
 temples were not designed for public assemblies. It 
 seems probable that few besides those immediately 
 engaged in the performance of religious ceremonies, 
 were accustomed to enter them. Those who were 
 mere spectators remained without in the open air. 
 The diminutive size of many Greek as well as Koman 
 temples, renders this conclusion unavoidable. The 
 stones of which the temple of Jupiter Panhellenius 
 was built, are large and massive. I measured one, 
 which must have occupied an elevated position in the 
 building, that was about fourteen feet long by four 
 thick, and it was of still greater width. 
 
 We returned from these interesting ruins at 1 p. M., 
 much fatigued but highly gratified. Our voyage to 
 Epidaurus was accomplished in two and a half hours, 
 with a fair wind and a smooth sea. 
 
CHAPTER XII. 
 
 ANCIENT EPIDAURUS. 
 
 December 5th. We spent a little time last night 
 in looking at the very slight remains of ancient Epi- 
 claurus, a city which possessed some importance 
 amongst the Grecian republics. It was built on both 
 sides of a promontory of small extent, but of consider- 
 able elevation, which rises from a flat back-ground into 
 the bay of Salamis. On either side of this promontory 
 is a small harbor, said to have been occupied by the 
 ships of the ancient city. Only one is now used, in 
 which a few coasting vessels, or rather large boats — I 
 should think not more than five or six, were moored in 
 apparent security from the sea. Several fragments of 
 statuary, evidently antique, are lying in a ploughed 
 fleld, which was probably near the centre of old Epi- 
 daurus. 
 
 One is a part of a monument to the dead, and is 
 of good workmanship. In several places are seen, 
 overgrown by a thick and tangled under-brush, mas- 
 sive blocks of stone, which were undoubtedly the foun- 
 dations of important public buildings. In another 
 locality, I saw a block of fine white marble, which had 
 
Ancient Epidaurus. Ill 
 
 the appearance of having been recently disinterred. 
 It was chiselled in the manner of an architrave, though 
 not elaborately. Other blocks of the common stone 
 lay partly uncovered in the same place, and all proba- 
 bly belonged to some edifice of which it is not im- 
 probable that further excavations may reveal the means 
 of forming some more definite idea. These constitute 
 the sole remains of a city once powerful and opulent. 
 
 The modern Epidaurus consists of half a dozen re- 
 spectable looking buildings, which seemed to be occu- 
 pied as shops, and of fifty or sixty cottages, mostly of 
 mud walls, and occupied by the cultivation of a small 
 tract of level fertile land, which lies between the beach 
 and the mountains. Several more were engaged in 
 ploughing with oxen, which are mostly used for this 
 purpose in Greece. The plough is here, and, I believe, 
 throughout the kingdom, of the most primitive and 
 clumsy construction. The beam is long, reaching to a 
 yoke, and the cattle are attached to it as to a cart. It 
 has but one handle, which is commonly held in the 
 left hand, and in the right is a pole eight or ten feet in , 
 length, armed at one end with iron, to clear the share, 
 and used also to quicken the speed of the oxen, for 
 which purpose it is sometimes pointed with a goad. 
 The share is only a straight piece of iron eight or ten 
 inches long by four wide, which turns the furrow 
 equally on both sides. The ploughing is shallow, and 
 certainly very imperfect. I have often seen the same 
 kind of plough in Italy, where it is in common, if not 
 exclusive use. It is the only plough in Greece, and is 
 probably the same which was used in the days of Ho- 
 
112 
 
 Primitive Plough. 
 
 mer and Hesiod. 1 was told that several proprietors 
 had lately imported English ploughs into Attica, with 
 the hope of introducing a more thorough and perfect 
 tillage. They were laid aside, however, by the peasants 
 after a short trial, and there seems little probability that 
 this approved implement of agriculture will soon be 
 supplanted, though certainly it would tend more to the 
 advancement of the country in wealth and civilization , 
 than the adoption of the Frank dress, which threatens 
 to become general at least in the towns. The peas- 
 antry, it must be allowed, have hitherto resisted this 
 innovation upon their hereditary customs, and perhaps 
 they at least may, for a long time to come, preserve 
 some of the distinctive features of ^the Grecian char- 
 acter. 
 
 Our accommodations at the inn were less disgustingly 
 filthy than at Egina, but they were less comfortable. 
 The weather had become cold. We landed chilled 
 with the east wind, which had wafted us so speedily 
 across the bay of Salamis, and were shown into a room 
 in the upper story, where there was no means of kin- 
 dling a fire. The wind poured in upon us through a 
 hundred apertures, and I found my thick quilt of cot- 
 ton an insufficient protection against the cold. We 
 engaged five of the horses to carry us to Napoli — three 
 for Mr. and Mrs. C. and myself, one for Demetrius, 
 and one to carry our baggage. They were all wretch- 
 ed-looking animals, such as no man in America would 
 think of attempting a journey with. For these horses 
 and their guides, of whom three accompanied us, we 
 agreed to pay five and a-half drachmas, about eighty- 
 
Ghotesque Cortege. IIS 
 
 two cents each. Mrs. 0. had brought a side-saddle 
 from Athens. I was complimented with a remnant 
 of an old Turkish saddle, the worst and least convenient 
 certainly in the world. The other horses were sur- 
 mounted with huge frames of wood, extending almost 
 the whole length of the animals, with cushions, or 
 some other appliances, under them to protect the horse, 
 and blankets and quilts above to protect the rider. I 
 believe there was a single bridle, and that broken in 
 several places, and without a throat-latch. The rest 
 rode with clumsy rope-halters, which, however, the 
 animals obeyed tolerably well. Our beds, bags, trunks, 
 baskets of provisions, and cooking-utensils, were piled 
 upon the pack-horse, till he was quite lost under his 
 huge burthen. The rest was distributed amongst the 
 riders, as they could take charge of it. 
 
 Thus prepared and equipped, we set off for Napoli, 
 about thirty miles distant, a little before 8 A. M. The 
 novelty of our situation, and the grotesque appearance 
 of our cortege, were at first a source of amusement, 
 and tended to beguile our journey of its fatigue. Our 
 way at first lay through a valley of a few hundred 
 yards in breadth, bounded by high mountains, not like 
 those we had been accustomed to see in Greece, bare 
 of trees and vegetation. A few stunted bushes and 
 scattered shrubs, which had not yet been discolored 
 with frost, partly covered their nakedness, and relieved 
 them of that aspect of savage and desolate sterility 
 which now impressed me with a feeling that bor 
 dered upon positive pain. The valley was naturally 
 fertile, and had formerly been tilled, as the scattered 
 
114 
 
 Precipitous Paths. 
 
 olive-trees bore testimony. It was now overrun with 
 a rank and tangled growth of bushes, briars and shrubs, 
 which overhung our path, and often left no room to 
 pass. To increase the difficulty, it rained with great 
 violence ; and the necessity of lowering our umbrellas 
 every moment, and of brushing off the rain-drops from 
 the obtrusive foliage with our heads or shoulders, 
 added materially to the discomfort and toil of the 
 journey. 
 
 As we advanced, the mountains on our right and left 
 gradually approached each other ; and by the time we 
 had advanced three miles, we were threading our way 
 along the dry bed of a mountain torrent, sometimes 
 on one side, and sometimes on the other of the rocky 
 pathway, always obstructed by the brushwood and 
 the projecting rocks, that scarcely left a place for the 
 careful animals to put down their feet. We soon 
 began to ascend the sides of the mountains, the valley 
 no longer having sufficient width. Our path became 
 more and more precipitous and difficult, till we were 
 clinging to the side of the steep declivity, at the 
 height of several hundred feet, — our path a mere in- 
 cision in the rock of hardly a foot in breadth, and an 
 absolute precipice above and below us. Our lives 
 evidently depended upon the steadiness and skill of 
 our horses ; and for several miles a single trip would 
 have been fatal. These sagacious and experienced 
 animals evidently reconnoitred every step, and warily 
 'chosc the «pot for every movement of the feet. They 
 stepped long or short, as the case might require, — 
 sometimes resting upon the projecting point of a rock. 
 
Ancient Theatre. 
 
 115 
 
 sometimes carefully reaching over a suspicious looking 
 place. 
 
 The road was for considerable distances worn into 
 the rock or hard soil, to the depth of a foot or more, 
 occasionally not six inches wide at the bottom, or ter- 
 minating in a positive acute angle. For nearly two 
 hours we proceeded in this way, without any accident, 
 and about 11 a. m. we came into a more open region. 
 This soon spread into a pleasant valley of considerable 
 extent, which formerly contained the grove of Escu- 
 lapius, and all the appliances of an ancient watering- 
 place. The ruins which still remain attest the great 
 extent and magnificence of this city of invalids. The 
 foundations of a large town are spread all around over 
 the valley. The sites of several temples are indicated 
 by masseS'Of hewn stones of large dimensions, such as 
 were hardly ever used in building private dwellings. 
 Besides these, there are remains of buildings so perfect 
 as clearly to point out their uses. 
 
 There is a large theatre on the south side of the val- 
 ley, formed by excavating the side of a mountain, so 
 as to form an area capable of containing an immense 
 audience, not less, I should think, taking estimates 
 made of other similar areas which I have seen, than 
 three or five thousand persons. There are fifty-eight 
 rows of scats, rising one above another around this vast 
 semi-circle. These seats are a little more than a foot 
 in height, from which the elevation of the whole struc- 
 ture is readily appreciated. They are, I think, more 
 than two feet wide, and, from the grooves cut in all 
 of them, seem to have had a wooden back, constructed 
 
Stadium. 
 
 ' 116 
 
 for the greater ease of the speetators, who are presumed 
 to have been invalids, as no other ancient building 
 appears to have this provision. There was a pas- 
 sage upon every seat behind the back, for passing to 
 and from each place without disturbing the occupants 
 of the others. Access to the different tiers of seats was 
 had by twenty flights of stairs, about two feet ifi 
 width, which extended from the bottom to the top of 
 this immense amphitheatre, at equal distances. A 
 large part of the seats and steps still retain their origi- 
 nal places, and very few of them have been removed 
 from the ground ; so that this may be regarded as one 
 of the most considerable and massive of the antiquities 
 of Greece. Like the other Grecian theatres, this had 
 no roof, the performances being held in the open air. 
 
 At a small distance from the theatre is a stadium of 
 large dimensions. It is not in so good preservation as 
 the former. Its form, however, is perfect, and many 
 of* the huge stone seats remain in their places. It is 
 oblong, and, like the theatre, was formed at least in part 
 by excavating the earth. 
 
 The only remaining ruin worthy of special notice is 
 a bath, partly at least below the surface. I did not 
 measure its extent, but it can hardly be less than 
 seventy-five or a hundred feet in length. The walls 
 of massive hewn stone remain almost entire, to the 
 height of eight or ten feet. A spout to introduce 
 water into the bath is made of red granite, each block 
 more than one foot square. Eows of massive stones, 
 prepared with large grooves for conducting water, may 
 be seen in the neighborhood of the bath and elsewhere, 
 
Remains of Ancient Baths. 117 
 
 indicating tlie existence of others of which no relic 
 now remains. There is also a large mass of brick- work, 
 in the Roman style, presumed to be the remains of a 
 public bath or of a temple. A rivulet running near 
 was said to have medicinal virtues, and, as the highest 
 recommendation, this was alleged to be the birth-place 
 of Esculapius, 
 
CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 NAPOLI. 
 
 From tlie site of these ruins to Napoli, tliougli the 
 road is hilly and rough, it can hardly be denominated 
 mountainous. There is a small agricultural village at 
 the distance of not more than a mile, with some fields, 
 apparently fertile, though badly tilled. Then succeeds, 
 for a distance of ten or twelve miles, an uncultivated 
 waste, much of it formerly tilled, but now overrun 
 with shrubs and bushes, none of them amounting to 
 trees of the size of a man’s arm. These the peasants 
 were cutting and carrying in bundles, bound with 
 ropes upon the backs of donkeys, to sell for fuel in 
 Napoli and Argos. This wood was seldom more than 
 one or two inches in diameter. The land, I was. told, 
 belongs to the king, and the peasants get the wood 
 without any expense but the labor. 
 
 We met in this valley many flocks of sheep and a 
 few of cattle, proceeding from the mountains of the 
 Morea, where they spend the summer, to the islands 
 which give sustenance in the winter. The shepherds 
 were accompanied by their families, with their tents, 
 their only dwellings, and their furniture — kettles, beds. 
 
Shepherds and their Flocks. 119 
 
 and corn upon droves of donkeys. The women car 
 ried large packs also, and many of them had their chil- 
 dren tied in a kind of long narrow box, not unlike a 
 miniature cannon slung upon their backs. These 
 groups, of which we met a large number, were wild 
 and picturesque. Their peculiar costume, and their 
 swarthy complexion, strongly reminded me of the North 
 American Indian. The sheep, of which we met sev- 
 eral large flocks, were small and lean, hardy in appear- 
 ance, with long coarse wool, which is made into a shag- 
 gy coarse cloth, worn by the shepherds and other peas- 
 ants without dyeing. The sheep are also milked, and 
 the butter and cheese made from them is much used in 
 the country. I have tasted the butter, which is pale, 
 and of a vile quality. 
 
 December 6th. I took an early walk through the 
 streets of Napoli, and along the quays. Many of the 
 houses are well built of stone, three or four stories 
 high. Two or three streets are of respectable width, 
 but the rest are narrow, inconvenient, and excessive- 
 ly dirty. Even at sunrise in the winter, the stench 
 was offensive enough, and in the summer it must 
 be intolerable, and pernicious to the health of the 
 city. Napoli has long been distinguished as a sickly 
 city. The plague has several times committed great 
 ravages, and autumnal fevers prevail from year to 
 year. These have been ascribed to the vicinity of some 
 marshes, which are, however, separated from the city 
 by the bay. A more probable, and of itself a suffi- 
 cient cause, is the filthiness of the streets, which, under 
 a less powerful sun, might be expected to scourge the 
 
120 
 
 Napoli. 
 
 population with diseases. Ilcre, where there is hardly 
 ever a cold day, when to the present moment the foli- 
 age has not been discolored by winter, and flowers arc 
 in full bloom, the plague and all its family of maladies 
 is but invited by such criminal and universal inatten- 
 tion to cleanliness. 
 
 There were a few, perhaps a dozen or more, small 
 coasting vessels in the harbor, which is very well shel- 
 tered and spacious, though of no great depth. Many 
 retail shops make some display of cheap wares suited 
 to the consumption of a poor population, but there is 
 very little appearance of activity or extensive business. 
 The trade of the place has declined since the seat of 
 government was transferred to Athens, and though 
 Napoli is better built and has suffered less from the 
 revolution than perhaps any other city in Greece, it 
 exhibits the same neglected appearance and tendency 
 to decline which I have observed elsewhere, Athens 
 only excepted. 
 
 With every advantage of situation, its trade is said 
 to have fallen off, and is threatened perhaps with still 
 further decline. It is strongly fortified by its natural 
 situation, and by the military works which have been 
 thrown up by its successive owners. Its princijial 
 fortress is the Palymede, a mountain which rises al- 
 most perpendieularly, on all sides but the north-east, to 
 the height of more tlian a thousand feet above the sea, 
 which washes its base. The city is itself a regular 
 fortress, surrounded by a wall and ditch, and having 
 within a lofty citadel ; but this citadel, as well as the 
 town and harbor, are overlooked and perfectly com- 
 
Commanding Citadel. 
 
 121 
 
 manded by the towering Palymede, which rises south 
 of the town, and is separated only by the fosse and 
 wall. The ascent from this side is by a long flight of 
 stairs, covered with arches of masonry. 
 
 We ascend by another flight of almost endless steps, 
 which is uncovered, and leads with many zigzags to 
 the summit. The labor of ascending these steps, 
 which, I think,, must amount to a thousand, is oc- 
 casioned by their bad construction. They are made in 
 many places of small stones, many of which are loose 
 or displaced — ^they are placed edgewise, or, if horizon- 
 tally, so as to form unequal and variously inclined 
 surfaces. In our ascent we were met by a company 
 of convicts, preceded and followed by a strong escort 
 of soldiers. This was the first intimation I had that 
 this aerial stronghold is a prison as well as a fortress. 
 One more perfectly secured I have not seen. When 
 the approaches are properly guarded, as they are con- 
 stantly by sentinels, escape is strictly impossible with- 
 out wings. 
 
 We were shown into the workshops, where the pris- 
 oners are employed in manufacturing cotton cloth. In 
 a second building, they make coats and shoes for the 
 army. This seems to be a part of the system lately 
 introduced, as the buildings are not yet complete. 
 The commandant, who seemed much interested in the 
 processes, and to whom we were introduced in the 
 workshops, apologized for the slender scale of the 
 manufactures, and said it was but a beginning. He 
 accompanied us through the fortress, showing and ex- 
 plaining all in the most obliging manner. The forti- 
 
 G 
 
 4 
 
122 
 
 Strong Fortress. 
 
 fications were mostly constructed by tbe Venetians, 
 and many fine pieces of ordnance bear tbe arms of 
 that republic. Some of a very large size were cast 
 nearly two centuries ago. They do not seem to be 
 impaired by time, and are perfectly fit for use. 
 
 The Turks have added to the works of defence, but 
 the style of their workmanship is very inferior to the 
 Venetian, though of a later date. The different bas- 
 tions bear the names of the heroes of ancient Greece, 
 Themistocles, Aristides, Miltiades, &c. The garrison 
 at present consists of one hundred and eighty men. I 
 should think two or three hundred necessary to man 
 the defences completely. The whole fortress, strong 
 by nature and art, seems to be impregnable. Certainly 
 it is capable of being made so, if any place in the world 
 is. Its immense elevation removes it quite out of the 
 reach of an enemy’s fire. Its batteries command every 
 point both of sea and land within gunshot. Large cis- 
 terns are constructed in different parts of the fortress, 
 to catch and preserve the rain-water, which is the only 
 supply. 
 
 The view from this place is extensive and beautiful, 
 though bounded on all sides, except a very narrow 
 vista into the Archipelago, by high mountains. Tay- 
 getus is seen in the distance in the south-west, covered 
 with snow. Argos and a number of agricultural vil- 
 lages are seen to the north, scattered over the lovely 
 and fertile Argive plains. 
 
 Having ordered a carriage to be ready at the hotel 
 to carry us to Mycenae, we hastened to complete our 
 survey and take leave, but the polite and hospitable 
 
Oriental Entertainment. 123 
 
 commandant would compel us to enter liis apartments, 
 which Avere tastefully furnished, and commanded a 
 most enchanting prospect. 
 
 We Averc entertained d la Turqv£. First, along pipe 
 was presented to each of us in succession, to take a feAv 
 AvFilfs, the commandant in his turn doing the same. 1 
 liad not been polluted Avith the contact of cigar or pipe, 
 I believe, for full tAA^enty years, but ventured to orien 
 talize for once. Then coifee Avas introduced, of AAdiich 
 each of us Avas presented with a small cup, AAuth sugar, 
 but no milk. It Avas of the finest quality. We then 
 rose and took leave. Our entertainer, hoAvever, led 
 ^frs. C. doAAUi several flights of stairs to a little floAver- 
 garden, Avhich Avas neatly laid out and AA^ell cultwated 
 in a nook of the mountain, and after presenting her 
 with a bouquet, bid us adieu, leaving us with the most fa- 
 vorable impressions of his politeness and good feeling. 
 
 We parted Avith our landlord a few minutes later, 
 bearing Avith us less agreeable recollections. Our ac- 
 commodalions had been of the Avorst sort — dirty rooms, 
 dirty beds, and, in spite of a change made at our ex- 
 press invitation, dirt}^ sheets. For these accommoda- 
 tions (two beds) and for a supper of soup and rice, and 
 a breakfast of mutton-chops and coffee, he charged us 
 fifty drachmas. After a vain attempt to obtain some 
 deduction from this extravagant bill, we paid it and 
 left him A\nth an assurance which Ave are likely to 
 make good, of not favoring him again Avith our custom. 
 
 We AA^ere soon in our carriage, the only vehicle 
 Avhich Ave had seen in Greece out of Athens. It A\ms 
 draAvn by two of the vilest horses AV^e had anyAvhere 
 
124 
 
 Fine E o a d . 
 
 seen, and by dint of good humor and kind words to 
 our driver, who was delighted at my addressing to him 
 some words of aneient Greek, which he repeated to me 
 in the proper modern pronuneiation, we rolled along 
 the fine road towards Argos, with a degree of rapidity 
 and comfort which, in this kingdom, no one may hope 
 to realize who does not happen to journey upon this 
 same highway over the Argive plain on the eight or 
 ten miles of good road in Attica, which are said to 
 constitute the whole amount of 'artificial highway be- 
 tween Macedonia and Cape Matapan. I suppose there 
 is not a carriage in the realm of King Otho beyond 
 the precincts of Athens and Napoli. 
 
 
CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 TIRYNS AND MYCEN^. 
 
 The plaia of Argos, celebrated for its fertility, both 
 in ancient and modern times, is a beautiful tract of 
 level land, extending about eight or ten miles from 
 Napoli to Greece, and of unequal width, ranging from 
 six or eight to not more than three or live miles. It 
 may contain sixty square miles of excellent land — the 
 best, I think it is reputed, in Greece, — fertile in 
 corn, wheat, vines, tobacco, and vegetables. It 
 reaches tht bay of Napoli on the south, and is sur- 
 rounded on all sides by high rocky mountains, bare of 
 verdure, and of the most dreary aspect. They have 
 nearly the color of ashes. A number of gray craggy 
 rocks, and several conical mountains of no great ex- 
 tent, rise upon different parts of the plain, without, 
 however, occupying any considerable portion of its 
 surface. This is the season for ploughing, and we saw 
 not less than a hundred yoke of oxen at work on this 
 broad field. 
 
 At about two miles from Napoli are the ruins of 
 the very ancient city of Tiryns. Long before the 
 Christian era, this city was, as it now is, a heap of ruins 
 
126 
 
 C Y C L O P I A N He m a i k s. 
 
 without inhabitant. From the solidity of the struC" 
 tureSy and the massive and imperishable materials of 
 'which it was composed^ these ruins may remain other 
 thousands of years, and excite the wonder of coming' 
 generations^ These remains^ which are of the class 
 denominated Cyclopian, from the massiveness of the 
 materials, and from our entire ignorance of the authors 
 and the age of these stupendous productions of human 
 art and industry, consist solely of an enclosure, two 
 hundred and forty -four yards in length by fifty-four in 
 breadth. Tlic enclosed space is too inconsiderable for 
 the area of a city, and must, therefore, have been the 
 citadel only. This is made quite certain by its situa- 
 tion. 
 
 These walls arc reared upon a mass of rock, or a 
 small mountain, which rises from the plain of Argos, 
 and is precisely one of those commanding and secure 
 positions which the Greeks always chose as ^he nucleus 
 of a city. In the early days of this people, when war 
 and the dread of violence were the most common pur- 
 suit and the most urgent motive, a proper site for a 
 citadel, where the people who built their houses around 
 its base might flee for protection in times of danger, 
 Avas an object of the greatest importance, ' and con- 
 trolled, in the selection of a site for a new town, as 
 completely as a good harbor does in these days of com- 
 merce. Such a site was the abrupt rock, commanding 
 the neighboring country, and out of the reach of any 
 higher eminence, upon which the ancient walls of this 
 venerable citadel now stand. 
 
 The exterior walls of the city, and the habitations of 
 
Gateways. 
 
 127 
 
 men, whicli were constructed of more frail materials, 
 have thousands of years since disappeared. No vestiges 
 of these, not even a mound to puzzle the antiquary 
 and provoke conjecture, remain at the present time. 
 Nothing is seen but the citadel, which was constructed 
 for their security ; and now that they have vanished 
 from the world, and even history has failed to make 
 any authentic record of them, this serves as a peiqiet- 
 ual and impressive monument of their high civilization 
 and stupendous energy. 
 
 The thickness of these walls is from twenty to 
 twenty-five feet. The highest part now standing is 
 about forty-five feet. It is evident, however, both 
 from the appearance of the wall itself, as well as from 
 the mass of stone that lay in disorder at its base, that 
 it was originally much higher, not less these data would 
 lead us to conclude, than sixty or seventy feet. They 
 are not perfectly straight, but bend a little, to follow 
 the direction of the rocky height upon which they are 
 founded, not, however, following all its irregularities. 
 There are two gateways still remaining — one small, 
 and still entire, the other partially destroyed, and much 
 larger, — both very peculiar in their shape and con- 
 struction. The former is on the western side, looking 
 towards Argos. It is pointed at the top, and there is 
 a large accumulation of rubbish upon its threshold. 
 It is now nine feet in height, and seven feet wide at 
 the base. The other is fallen in at the top, but from 
 what remains, is presumed to be of a similar form with 
 the last. It looks northward to the mountains, and 
 
1 
 
 128 Huge Stones. 
 
 seems to have been a very large and the principal en- 
 trance to the citadel. 
 
 The most singular feature of them is the great size 
 of the stones of which they are built. Some of them 
 measure twelve or fifteen feet in length, by four or five 
 feet in thickness, with an equal width. Most of them 
 are from four to five feet square. They are rough or 
 unhewn. They are laid without mortar in the most 
 solid manner, the interstices being filled up with small- 
 er stones. They were undoubtedly quarried at no 
 great distance from their present situation, and are of 
 the same sort as the neighboring hills and mountains. 
 But the wonder is, how they were ever raised from 
 their native bed, and transferred to their present posi- 
 tion by a people reputed to have been ignorant bar- 
 barians, and centuries before the invention of those 
 mechanical contrivances, upon which labors much less 
 ponderous and difficult are now dependent for their 
 achievement. It is this difficulty that has led men to 
 ascribe these magnificent works to a race of giants, who 
 peopled the earth long before the birth of authentic 
 history. 
 
 The ruins of Mycenoe, about seven miles further 
 south, and at the extremity of the Argive plain^ are of 
 the same class, but much more extensive, and con- 
 structed of still more gigantic materials. You pass 
 over the lower hills that bound the plains to the south- 
 west. You ascend a mountain of no great elevation. 
 The next ridge before you, which is of great height, 
 and of a waste, savage, bare and craggy aspect, opens, 
 retreating to the right and left, giving space for a broad 
 
M Y C E N 
 
 129 
 
 gap, nearly at right angles with the ridges. In the 
 midst of this gap rises a lofty, nearly conical mount, 
 abrupt and j^recipitous on all sides. On the summit 
 of this mount is the citadel of ancient Mycenae, the 
 enemy and rival, and finally the prey of its more for- 
 tunate neighbor, Argos. 
 
 The history of Mycenae and Tiryns is little known, 
 as they were destroyed before the period of authentic 
 annals began. They were prosperous and powerful in 
 the days of the Trojan w'ar, and took an honorable part 
 in that enterprise. We do not hear of them in the 
 more known periods of Grecian annals, except as de- 
 serted, though magnificent ruins. Such they were 
 certainly at the commencement of the Christian era, 
 and they seem in the second century, when we have a 
 description of them by Pausanias, to have been in 
 nearly their present state. They ate believed by critics 
 to have been built as early as about 1800 years before 
 our era began. 
 
 In approaching these ruins from Napoli, the first ob- 
 ject that engages the attention, is a magnificent struc- 
 ture, which is, with the exception of its entrance, en- 
 tirely covered with earth. A large tumulus rises from 
 the side of the last ridge which you descend in going 
 to the citadel. The entrance is not visible until you 
 pass the tumulus to the right, when a door or gate- 
 way, which, however, has no appearance of having 
 been closed, except with earth, is perceived immedi- 
 ately opposite to the citadel, looking towards it, and 
 distant perhaps eighty rods. The approach to this en- 
 trance is by a passage between two lofty walls, con- 
 
 ()* 
 
I 
 
 130 Cyclopean Remains. 
 
 structed of liewn stone, of vast size and in perfect pres- 
 ervation. The earth rises to the top of these walls 
 on the outer sides, so that they are not visible until 
 you have arrived at the entrance of the .passage. It is 
 not possible to determine the height of the gateway, 
 as there is a large accumulation of earth and rubbish, 
 probably several yards deep. It is about ten feet wide, 
 measured upon the surface of the present entrance, and 
 perhaps fifteen feet high. It is not a parallelogram, 
 but grows narrower as it approaches the top. 
 
 Immediately above the door, is a triangular window 
 of the same width at its base as the top of the door, 
 but terminating in a point, thus forming with the door 
 a pointed arch. The lintel of the door is formed by a 
 single stone extending horizontally across the passage, 
 and resting upon the massive walls. The sides of the 
 door are of gi'eat depth, forming indeed a passage not 
 so wide as that by which the approach is made, but 
 five or six yards in length. This is covered by the 
 lintel, and another immense slab of hewn stone, ex- 
 tending from the lintel to the interior of the edifice, 
 nearly twenty feet in width, four or five feet thick, and 
 hardly less than thirty in length. It reaches far to the 
 right and left of the doorway, and fprms a jDart of the 
 interior wall. 
 
 It is certainly the largest mass of wrought stone I 
 have seen. How it was ever raised from the quarry, 
 and placed in its present position, is a question which 
 must engage every observer, and probably it will never 
 be solved. The interior of this edifice is circular, rising 
 in the form of a cone and terminating in an apex. It 
 
Tomb of Agamemnok. 131 
 
 is about fifty feet in diameter, and is built of buge 
 blocks of hewn stone, without cement. The whole is 
 in good preservation, and seems likely to outlast the 
 most solid structures of the present age. It seems 
 probable, from the nails which are found in the walls, 
 and other holes in the stones from- which the nails 
 have fallen, that the whole interior was lined with me- 
 tallic plates. A door nearly filled with rubbish leads 
 from this large apartment into another of an oblong 
 form, about eight yards in length. It is not walled, 
 but merely excavated from the earth, which is so hard 
 that there is no appearance of any change of form in 
 the room since it was made. 
 
 There are thirty-four ranges of stone visible in the 
 circular room. Many more seem to be hid by the ac- 
 cumulations at the bottom. In passing by the usual 
 way from this structure, which is usually called the 
 tomb of Agamemnon, another of similar construction, 
 but more dilapidated, and nearly filled with earth and 
 rubbish, lies close to the path. This, too, was undoubt- 
 edly the tomb of some distinguished Grecian. Others 
 are mentioned by books of travel, but I did not ob- 
 serve them, and I examined the premises with some 
 attention. I presume that the vestiges are much less 
 considerable. 
 
 Upon approaching the citadel, the first object that 
 arrests the attention is a magnificent gate (no doubt 
 the principal entrance), called the Gate of Lions. It 
 is approached like the door to the tomb of Agamemnon, 
 by a passage about thirty feet wide. The walls on 
 either liand are formed of hewn stone of huge dimen- 
 
132 
 
 G-ate of Lions. 
 
 sions, and in imperfect preservation. The gate is 
 nearly filled np with fallen stones and rubbish. There 
 is only enough* room to creep under its lintel into the 
 citadel. The gate is about ten feet wide, and no doubf 
 widening towards the bottom, like that of the tomb. 
 It must, to maintain the proportions, have been nearly 
 twenty feet high. The lintel is fifteen feet long by 
 seven broad and four thick. Above the gate is a tri- 
 angular stone eleven feet long at the base and nine 
 feet high. It fills a niche in the wall, and has sculp- 
 tured upon it two lions, from which the gate takes ifs 
 name. This is probably one of the oldest specimens 
 of sculpture in the world. The hinder feet of the lions 
 rest upon the base of the triangular stone, just above 
 the lintel of the gate, — the fore feet rest upon the base 
 of a column which rises between the lions and increases 
 in size upwards. The lions stand nearly erect, facing 
 each other. They are chiselled in high relief, their 
 tails not bushy, but smaller than those we see in menag-^ 
 eries. The heads of the lions are broken off, but the 
 remaining parts are entire, and one is astonished to see 
 how well they have resisted for so many centuries the 
 influence of the seasons. The stone upon which they 
 are sculptured is a green marble: that of which the 
 walls of the citadel is composed, as also the tomb of 
 Agamemnon and the ruins of Tiryns, is a very hard 
 species of breccia or pudding-stone, of which all the 
 mountains of this part of Greece are chiefly composed. 
 There is another gate or entrance to the citadel much 
 smaller than the gate of lions, and in good preserva- 
 tion. 
 
The Citadel. 
 
 133 
 
 The walls of the citadel follow' the sinuosities of 
 the rock upon which it is built, and it receives from 
 this circumstance a very irregular form. It is more 
 the shape of a triangle than any other figure. The 
 walls are constructed partly of hewn stones and partly 
 of rough polygons, all laid up without mortar or cement 
 of any kind. The interstices between the polygons 
 are filled up with smaller stones. The citadel is sepa- 
 rated from a high and very large mountain, which 
 stands very near it, upon the north, by a deep ravine, 
 at the bottom of which is the dry bed of a rivulet. 
 Over this a bridge is said to have existed, of which a 
 portion is still pointed out. I saw nothing, however, 
 which had the appearance of having ever formed a 
 part of a bridge, and I descended nearly to the bottom 
 of the ravine, to examine any remains that might have 
 belonged to such a structure. Only one portion of the 
 ruins can, with any semblance of probability, be re- 
 garded as having been connected with such a structure. 
 This is too remote from the bottom, and has much 
 more the appearance of a bastion. It is built upon a 
 projecting part of the rock, is a continuation of the 
 wall, and I could see nothing to lead to the supposition 
 that a bridge had existed at this point, except the fact 
 that this is the nearest point to the opposite mountain. 
 That mountain is precipitous, — almost perpendicular. 
 It would be impossible to build upon it, or to find a 
 square yard that might be cultivated for a garden. Ho 
 enemy could occupy it for the purpose of annoyance, 
 at least any part of it from which the missiles of an- 
 cient warfare could reach the citadel. It is difficult. 
 
184 
 
 
 W A li L S OF THE C I T A D E L . 
 
 tlierefore, to conceive any motive for erecting a 
 bridge. 
 
 Several parts of the vail now standing are perhaps 
 forty feet in height, but these masses of stone lying in 
 disorder at the base, have fallen from the top, and di- 
 minished the height, which was probably not less than 
 sixty or seventy feet. When it is considered that the 
 walls everywhere rest upon a rock of great elevation, 
 some idea may be formed of the strength of this an- 
 cient fortress. I think the wall is nowhere less than 
 twenty feet thick. It is in several parts much more. 
 It is all constructed of huge stones, of which an old 
 writer has said, “ two mules could not draw one.” 
 
 In front of the gate of lions is an open space of con- 
 siderable extent, paved and possessing, it is probable, 
 other ornaments beside the sculptured lions, v/here, 
 according to the custom of primitive times, courts and 
 markets were held, and public business generally 
 transacted. The walls of the citadel project so far as 
 to form, outside of the gate, a large oblong space, well 
 fitted, and no doubt used for such occasions. Such 
 were probably the “ void places” at the entrance of the 
 cities of the Israelites, where the prophets, on great 
 and solemn occasions, delivered their messages before 
 kings — where Boaz gave public notice to the kinsman 
 of Euth of his intention to redeem the inheritance of 
 lier family. If so, this ancient citadel affords a strik- 
 ing illustration of the customs frequently referred to 
 in the Bible, and proves that other primitive nations 
 had the same usages. 
 
 The ruins of this once powerful city, recalled to jny 
 
Illustrations of Prophecy. 135 
 
 mind tlie proplietic denunciations contained in the 
 Holy Scriptures against Nineveh, Babylon, Tyre and 
 other great cities, devoted by divine justice to perpet- 
 ual desolation. Several small patches upon the top 
 of this lofty citadel, once covered with human habita- 
 tions and with splendid temples and palaces, are now 
 ploughed and sown. The peasant and his hardy beast 
 clamber up the precipitous rock and over the piles of 
 ruins, by paths hardly practicable for pedestrians not 
 accustomed to mountain steeps. I was also strongly 
 reminded of another figure by which the prophetic 
 writers mark the utter ruin and devastation of the 
 most populous and proud of human dwelling-places. 
 I was clambering along the fragments of the Cyclo- 
 pean wall and the crags of the original mount which 
 overhang the deep and savage gorge, in search of the 
 remains of the bridge, said to exist there. My eye 
 was resting upon what has been taken for the abut- 
 ment of the bridge, but which I regard only as a bas- 
 tion, when a fox, roused by the sound of footsteps 
 approaching so near his desolate habitation, started 
 from his hole under the mass of ruins, and after fixing 
 his gaze upon us for a moment, bounded down the 
 precipice, and disappeared in the depth of the ravine. 
 
 I looked upon these magnificent remains of former 
 days, with a deep and peculiar interest. Here was a 
 city that had seen a career of prosperity before the an- 
 nals of authentic history began. I looked upon speci- 
 mens of fortification, architecture, and sculpture, which 
 have existed nearly a thousand years. Here was the 
 tomb of the hero who led Greece to the conquest of 
 
136 
 
 Hoary Antiquity. 
 
 Troy. Ancient authors saw Mycenae two thousand 
 years ago as I saw it }'esterday, in ruins and uninhab- 
 ited. They, like visitors of the present day, were 
 filled with astonishment at its stupendous and imper- 
 ishable structures, and felt a kind of religious awe for 
 a race of men, who were capable of undertakings sur- 
 passing in massiveness and durability all that has been 
 accomplished by their successors. Were they civil- 
 ized and scientific ? Or were they of a race possessing 
 physical poAvers so vastly superior to ours ? Who can 
 ansAver these inquiries ? In the meantime, Tiryns and 
 Mycenae are likely to exist Avith little change for thou- 
 sands of years more to provoke the same inquiries, and 
 to check the scepticism and humble the pride of neAV 
 races of men, Avho, like us, may be disposed to cherish 
 too little respect for those who have occupied the stage 
 of life before them, and to claim for themselves a de- 
 cided superiority in all that pertains to the arts and 
 improvements of life. 
 
CHAPTER XV. 
 
 ARGOS AND CORINTH. 
 
 V- ' 
 
 Dec. 7th. We returned from Mycenm to Argos 
 after dark, crossing the dry bed of the Inachus several 
 times as we approached the latter place. We found 
 lodgings, as usual, upon the second floor of a coffee- 
 house, dirty, open and cheerless, but such as we ex- 
 pected, and we were therefore satisfied. This is mar- 
 ket-day, and the little town was thronged with peasants 
 and loaded donkeys at an early hour. It gave us a 
 very favorable opportunity of seeing the people of the 
 Argive plain. We had evidence of the fertility of this 
 region, reputed the best land in Greece, in the abun- 
 dance of grain, fine turnips, parsnips, cabbages and 
 onions, with which the streets were filled. The market 
 is held in the open air here, as everywhere else in 
 Greece. The costumes of the peasants made a very 
 picturesque appearance. All wore the high red cap. 
 The tunic, trowsers, and leggings, were of a coarse 
 woollen stuff, made in the country, of undyed wool. 
 
 The morning was rainy and cold, so that most of 
 them wore the capote of dingy brown, coarse and 
 shaggy stuff, said to be proof against rain. They 
 
138 
 
 Argos. 
 
 have almost always some glaring ornament upon the 
 head or other part-some gorgeous needle-work in 
 bright red, which, seen at a little distance, appears 
 ornamental. Argos is built upon level ground, near 
 the western edge of the plain which bears its name. 
 Immediately west of it rises the mountain, upon which 
 stands the citadel. It is of great elevation, and might 
 be made a fortress of great strength, though the prox- 
 imity and more important situation of Napoli render 
 it unnecessary, as far as the general defence is con- 
 cerned. Upon the south-east side of this hill arc the 
 ruins of a large theatre.' 
 
 The stone seats, rising one above another around the 
 stage in a semi-circular form, are many of them still 
 in their original position. Like the other theatres in 
 Greece, the performanees were in the open air. The 
 -site is elevated, and commands a noble view. There 
 are no other ruins in Argos of any importance. Some 
 fragments of an ancient wall remain upon the Acropo- 
 lis — at least so we were told. Nothing has been dis- 
 covered of the splendid ancient temples which arc 
 known to have existed at the commencement of the 
 Christian era. 
 
 The present town has a population variously esti- 
 mated at from five to six thousand inhabitants. They 
 are mostly employed in agriculture. The climate is 
 insalubrious. Fevers prevail in summer and autumn, 
 and the people are many of them pale and sickly in 
 appearance. A few of the houses are well built of 
 stone, but nearly the whole town is built of sun-baked 
 bricks, or of cobble-stones laid up in mud. The roolh 
 
The Ancient Gkeees. 139 
 
 upon the chief streets project, and are supported bj 
 rough posts, forming a kind of arcade or shed for the 
 exhibition of merchandise. Everything has the most 
 rude and clumsy appearance. Haste and cheapness 
 seem to have been the only considerations that pre- 
 vailed in their erection. 
 
 Argos is about four miles from Napoli, three from 
 Tiryus, and six from Mycenae. It is known to have 
 been the conqueror of the two latter places, and to 
 have incorporated their inhabitants with its own pop- 
 ulation. It gives one a striking idea of the state of 
 ancient Greece to see three rival and independent cities 
 within an hour’s ride of each other. These are states 
 which made Avars, and acted important parts in human 
 affairs. Certainly such states could only have been 
 powerful and important relatively to each other. 
 Greece herself OAved her pow'er and political influence 
 TO the uncivilized state of other nations. She Avould 
 have cut a sorry figure in the modem system of 
 European politics. These are conclusions forced upon 
 the mind by a consideration of the small extent of the 
 country, weakened still more by its division into 2 :>etty 
 sovereignties. It is this very circumstance that gives 
 the highest idea of the genius and intellect of a people 
 Avho achieved so much upon the theatre of human 
 events, and have the high honor of being the teachers 
 and civilizers of the world. 
 
 We set off before 10 A. M. for Corinth. It Avas 
 rainy, and a heavy wind, Avhich increased as Ave ad- 
 vanced, bleAv directly in our faces. I never made a 
 more disagreeable journey. After leaving the Argive 
 
140 
 
 Temple of Nemea. 
 
 plain, we entered the mountain region, consisting of 
 high, savage and bare ridges of breccia. After a ride 
 of two hours and a half, we arrived at the pass of Der- 
 venaki, — the Thermopylae of the late Greek revolu- 
 tion, where a small body of Greeks, stationed upon a 
 mountain which commanded the only road from Cor- 
 inth to ISTapoli, destroyed a large body of Turkish 
 troops — an event of great and decisive importance in 
 the history of that struggle. 
 
 From this point we made a detour to the vale of 
 Nemea, to view the ruins of the temple of the Nemean 
 Jupiter, and the theatre of some of the fabulous or real 
 exploits of Hercules. The vale is perhaps three miles 
 in length, by one or one and a half wide. It is mostly 
 uncultivated, and bare of trees, though once a forest 
 which furnished Hercules with his club — the potent 
 weapon with which he slew the Nemean lion and other 
 monsters. The ruins of the temple are beautiful and in- 
 teresting. Only three columns of this once magnificent 
 temple are now standing. Two of them support an 
 architrave of the Doric order, four and a half feet in 
 diameter, and said to be thirty-two feet high. 
 
 It is easy to trace the outlines and extent of the 
 temple in its perfect state, when it had fourteen col- 
 umns on each side. They seem not to have been de- 
 molished, like many other noble monuments of the 
 arts, by the hands of Vandal men, but to have fallen by 
 an earthquake, or some other great convulsion. This 
 is apparent from the position of the ruins, no part of 
 which seems to have been removed. The materials 
 are a soft stone, composed of sand-shells and pebbles. 
 
Mountain Passes. 
 
 141 
 
 Not far from this temple are the ruins of another 
 smaller building; fragments of fluted columns are 
 seen on all sides, and it is probable that these are the 
 remains of another ancient temple. Still farther on 
 the road bj which we returned to the main route to 
 Corinth, is the fountain of Nemea, which still gives an 
 abundant supply of pure water. The fountain is a 
 modern structure. 
 
 After leaving the fountain, the road leads over a 
 mountain of no great height, but forming one of the 
 most difficult passes for a horse that I had yet at- 
 tempted. The path is in some parts worn deep into 
 the rock, and scarcely six inches wide. In other 
 places the descent is steep, and the animal was obliged 
 to reach down a great distance to obtain foothold. 
 These diJB5culties were increased by the sinuosities of 
 the road, which made it necessary to shift the direction 
 suddenly to the right or left, often upon steep decliv- 
 ities. These sagacious animals had then an oppor- 
 tunity to show their ' good qualities, and so perfectly 
 did they understand the roads of this region, that 
 they carried us over in safety. Upon an even sur- 
 face they frequently stumbled, but upon the more dif- 
 ficult and precipitous parts of the route, they seemed 
 to be sensible of the necessity of using greater caution, 
 and seldom made a misstep. 
 
 On approaching within two hours of Corinth, the 
 country assumes a new appearance. Instead of moun- 
 tains of bare bleak rocks, are immense sand-hills, which 
 have the appearance of having been blown up from the 
 Gulf of Lepanto, which begins to be seen through the 
 
142 
 
 Corinth. 
 
 ravines or from the tops of the hills. The valleys are 
 washed by the rains into deep gullies, often with the 
 sides joerfectly perpendicular to the height of twenty 
 or thirty feet, and conformed to each other with the 
 regularity of two parallel walls through several sinu- 
 osities. A meagre vegetation of shrubs covers the 
 tops of these hills of sand, but the sides are often bare, 
 and exhibit the appearance of having fallen off in large 
 masses, through the agency of rain or other causes. 
 
 These sandy elevations, with occasional ledges of 
 rock, continue till we enter the plain of Corinth, which 
 is a tract of level country from one to two or three 
 miles wide, extending for ten or twelve miles along 
 the shore of the gulf, which is here narrow. On the 
 opposite shore, a rugged high mountain rises from the 
 water’s edge. There are olive plantations of consider- 
 able extent upon this plain. Large portions are un- 
 cultivated, and it is not fertile. The olive trees are 
 smaller than those of Attica. 
 
 Corinth has a beautiful situation between the gulf, 
 from which it is a mile and a half distant, and the 
 Acropolis, to whose base it approaches very near. 
 The descent is gradual, affording the best possible fa- 
 cilities for a town, easily drained, and yet not incon- 
 veniently hilly. A few of the houses arc substantially 
 built of stone, the most arc mud cottages. The popu- 
 lation is twelve hundred. It must have been much 
 larger before the revolution, judging from the ruined 
 houses, which here as everywhere else in Greece, attest 
 the barbarous spirit in which that fierce contest was 
 waged. The Acropolis is naturally one of the strong- 
 
143 
 
 Temple of Neptune. 
 
 / 
 
 est places in Greece, and, commanding as it does tlic 
 isthmus, which unites the Morea to the continent, it 
 must ever possess great importance as a place of de- 
 fence. A single temple of all the splendid structures 
 which adorned ancient Corinth, the most opulent and 
 luxurious town of Greece, now remains, or rather seven 
 columns remain to show where a magnificent temple 
 of Neptune once stood. It is known that all the mag- 
 nificent structures of Corinth were destroyed by Mum- 
 mius, who disgraced the Eoman name by his barbarous 
 destruction of this noble city. The city was subse- 
 quently rebuilt, and again destroyed by the barbari- 
 ans. It has since suffered greatly by war, as from its 
 position it must ever be an important point in any sys- 
 tem of offensive or defensive operations in Greece. 
 
 We found the only two khans, or inns, which this 
 little town possesses, already occupied, and we were 
 refused a place to lay down our beds. Having a letter 
 from the Kev. Mr. Hill to the governor of this prpv- 
 ince, who resides in Corinth, we sent our dragoman to 
 his excellency, to inquire if there was a prospect of 
 finding lodgings in his capital. He returned with our 
 messenger, took us to his house, and entertained us 
 with a hospitality and urbanity not soon to be forgot- 
 ten. He is a gentleman of education and intelligence, 
 speaks English well, and is full of information, as well 
 as patriotic in all that concerns his reviving country. 
 He served in the navy during the war, and has since 
 held important posts under the government. 
 
CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 THE ISTHMUS. — AFFAIRS OF GREECE. 
 
 December 9th. This morning (Monday) we set off 
 a little after nine to embark at the port of Lechceum 
 for Salona. We passed through the plain which con- 
 tinues for a considerable distance in this direction, 
 until it is gradually lost in a barren waste of sand and 
 covered with low shrubs. We passed by the remains 
 of two canals, begun by the ancients across the isth- 
 mus. The Venetian wall, also, comes to the gulf of 
 Lcpanto, between Corinth and our place of embarka- 
 tion. The isthmus is here only six miles wide. The 
 ridge which runs along between the two seas, is of no 
 great elevation, and might probably be canalled with- 
 out enormous expense. 
 
 There are two. traditions with regard to the causes 
 that led to the abandonment of the attempt made by 
 the ancients. In one instance, it is said, their progress 
 was stopped by a hard rock which they were unable 
 to excavate. Before modern skill and enterprise, the 
 mountain referred to above would soon yield, even if 
 it consisted of flint. The first attempt was abandoned, 
 because it was ascertained that the water in the Ar- 
 
Canal across the Isthmus, in, 
 
 cbipelago is higher than in the gulf of Corinth — a dif- 
 ficulty which, if it really did exist, would easily be rem- 
 edied by locks. 
 
 The Greeks and Eomans had little skill for civil en- 
 gineering. We were told by the governor that an ex- 
 amination has been made by a competent engineer, 
 who reports that the communication is practicable, and 
 may be effected at no greater expense than twelve mil- 
 lions of francs. This amount puts the enterprise, at 
 present, beyond the resources of Greece, and perhaps 
 the commerce of a country so poor and reduced would 
 not be sufficient to maintain a canal and pay the inter- 
 est of the investment. Certainly it would give great 
 facility of intercourse between the nations of Western 
 Europe and the Levant, and should Greece rise again 
 to wealth and commercial prosperity, this will be one 
 of the earliest enterprises to which the attention of hei 
 government and capitalists will be directed. 
 
 The navigation around the Morea is tedious and 
 dangerous. It is really the greatest obstacle to visiting 
 Greece. The way from Patras to Athens, laid open by 
 such an improvement, would be performed in one-third 
 of the time now occupied in going around Cape Mata- 
 pan, and with an exemption from a multitude of risks 
 and discomforts. 
 
 The hospitable governor accompanied us to the 
 point of embarkation, a ride of two hours and a half, 
 and by his interference shortened the delays by which 
 the smaller functionaries of Greece, as well as those of 
 the older absolute governments, contrive to embarrass 
 a stranger, and, I believe, their fellow-subjects also, 
 
 7 
 
146 The Bavarian Kegency, 
 
 whenever they have an opportunity to exercise the 
 faint emanation of royal power which rests upon them. 
 W e had much reason to be grateful to this hospitable 
 and worthy man. He gave us much information with 
 regard to the affairs of Greece^ past and present. Though 
 the agent of an unlimited and despotic power, he is a 
 decided liberal, and such, I have reason to believe, are 
 all the Greek authorities, though too many of them 
 are restrained by their poverty and dependence upon 
 royal favor from exercising a valuable influence in fa- 
 vor of free institutions. To them, however, they all 
 look forward as a blessing which cannot long be with- 
 liolden from a gallant people. 
 
 They wait, though not very patiently,, till the peo- 
 ple, so long inured to* anarchy and misrule, become a 
 little accustomed to the operation of laws, — till landed 
 proprietors, now poor, for the want of capital to culti- 
 vate their estates, shall have acquired a little indepen- 
 dence ; and till King Otho shall have the benefit of 
 more age and experience to enable him to see that his 
 honor and interest will best be promoted by identifying 
 himself fully with his people, and by ruling them in 
 sympathy with the hopes with which they called him 
 to his throne, and with the pledges given in his behalf 
 when the Bavarian regency entered upon the govern- 
 ment during his minority. That regency flagrantly 
 violated all its pledges, and all Greeks feel a lively 
 hatred towards the whole race, the king only except- 
 ed. They treated the brave nation as a conquered peo- 
 ple. They possessed themselves of the most valuable 
 offices, civil and military. They had ten thousand 
 
The Municipal System. 147 
 
 troops of their countrymen, whilst the veterauif who 
 had waged war with the Turks so heroically, were dis- 
 banded without any substantial reward, or even provis- 
 ion for their immediate wants. The indignation of 
 the people was roused. Acts of violence were com- 
 mitted upon the intruders in different parts of Greece, 
 and certainly scenes of blood would have ensued had 
 not .the government dismissed the mercenaries. 
 
 Only a few Bavarian soldiers are now to be found in 
 the army, which is recruited with natives. A large 
 proportion of officers remain, but they are gradually 
 leaving the country. The minister of war and one 
 judge only occupy high stations. Several of the pro- 
 fessors of the university too are Germans. Not more, 
 perhaps, remain than the public service demands. 
 Their superior science would qualify them to do im- 
 portant service in a country which is so destitute of 
 educated men, had not their presumption and avarice 
 made them odious. It is said that the King of Bavaria, 
 whose influence made the selection of the higher func- 
 tionaries, did not select able men. True or false, that 
 is the opinion of the Greeks, who feel themselves in- 
 sulted by this instance of bad faith, no less than in- 
 jured by the whole system of administration, and 
 that sovereign is the object of much dislike. 
 
 The municipal system of France has been substan- 
 tially introduced into this country. The system of the 
 Turks was so bad, that it is said nothing of it has 
 been retained; though, from a multitude of difficul- 
 ties which are met with in bringing a nation under 
 an entire new code, and in abrogating altogether the 
 
148 Gulf of Lepanto. 
 
 laws under which they have lived for centuries, the 
 work of transition is but very partially accomplished. 
 In the large towns, much better success has attended 
 the attemjDt, than in the remote villages and among 
 the mountain population. It must be the work of 
 years to complete the transformation. 
 
 AYe embarked at the port, Lechoeum, a place of only 
 three or four cottages, with the ruins of some forty 
 more built by refugees from Turkish cruelty. There 
 were four decked-boats in the harbor, which is the ex- 
 treme eastern point of the gulf of Lepanto. AY e hired 
 one for thirty drachmas to carry us to Scala, a distance, 
 as we were told, of .thirty miles. The other boatmen, 
 who demanded sixty and fifty drachmas, used loud and 
 angry words towards our padrone, for having underbid 
 them, and so deprived them of a good opportunity 
 of imposing upon strangers. Ilere we took leave of 
 our kind entertainer, who gave us letters to the Gov- 
 ernor of Salona and other authorities on our route. 
 
 Oar crew consisted of four men, who were barely 
 suflicient for the management of the boat. AYe made 
 half the distance with high spirits. The wind was fa- 
 vorable and the sea calm. AYc sailed about noon. At 
 two o’clock the wind changed. Subsequently we had 
 calms, relieved now and then by light breezes. From 
 two o’clock till dark we made no perceptible pro- 
 gress. AYe were finally compelled to spread our quilts 
 upon the grated floor of our low cabin, and lie down 
 for the night. AYe arrived at Scala some time between 
 twelve and six o’clock in the morning. The coast of 
 
Sc ALA. 
 
 149 
 
 the gulf of Lepanto, which we passed by daylight, and 
 indeed the Avhole shore from Lechoeum to far beyond 
 the bay of Salona, which was visible enough during 
 the early j^art of the voyage, is abrupt and bare ; it is 
 indeed a high mountain without any arable fields or 
 verdure. On the left, the bay is bordered by a more 
 variegated and hospitable region. The level ground 
 continues for at least eight or ten miles. The country 
 then becomes hilly and mountainous, but it is culti- 
 vated, and the neighborhood of the ancient Sicyon is 
 fertile in currants. 
 
 Dec. 10th. The harbor of Scala, in which we found 
 ourselves at anchor this morning, is a small but well 
 sheltered bay, having apparently no great depth of 
 water. We landed in a small boat, which, however, 
 could not reach the shore. We stopped to procure 
 breakfast and engage horses in a khan, as it was called, 
 but which was entirely open in front and without 
 floor, and was occupied as a coffee-house, market, and 
 baker’s shop. Several men were employed in mould- 
 ing black bread, and several bushels of the bread, per- 
 fectly dry, lay on an elevated platform at one side of 
 the room. It was designed, I understood, for sailors, 
 many of whom frequent this port, though not more 
 than a dozen small vessels, or rather boats, were in 
 the harbor, and the village has not more than eight or 
 ten houses. We saw a caravan of a dozen camels here 
 employed in the transportation of merchandise and 
 produce, between this port and the interior. After 
 rather more than the usual amount of higgling and 
 
150 
 
 Sc ALA. 
 
 wrangling, wliich Demetrius fortunately transacts for 
 us, we obtained decidedly the worst horses which have 
 yet fallen to our lot in Greece, and got under way for 
 Delphos a little after 9 A. M. 
 
CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 DELPHOS. 
 
 The road led us through a beautiful and fertile plain 
 of no great breadth, but said to be ten miles in length 
 from Salona, which was six miles to our left on our way 
 to Scala and to Delphos. We passed through a beau- 
 tiful and extensive' olive-yard, two miles. from Scala. 
 Another still more extensive lay at our left, extending 
 far towards Salona. As we looked back from the 
 lofty hill which we mounted, in approaching Krisso, a 
 most lovely view was spread out before us. On the 
 right was the valley before referred to, reaching to Sa- 
 lona, and nearly to that town, verdant with luxuriant 
 olive-trees, — then the town, built upon the declivity 
 of the mountain, in a most conspicuous and delightful 
 situation. 
 
 Beyond the town was a scanty verdure, which, how- 
 ever, gave a varied and cheerful air to the back-ground 
 in keeping with the lovely plain below. Higher up 
 the mountain was a bleak bare rock, like the most we 
 have seen in this country. Finally, the top was cov- 
 ered with snow, which glistened in the sun with very 
 peculiar lustre. The whole valley was surrounded 
 
152 
 
 Wild Eoute. 
 
 witli mountains of majestic height. Upon our left, or 
 rather before us, lay the beautiful vale through which 
 we had just passed, Scala and the gulf of Salona, Gal- 
 axidi, which occupies the opposite side of the bay, and 
 ranges of mountains which bound the horizon. 
 
 The village of Krisso has apparently about a hun- 
 dred and fifty houses, built of huge bricks dried, in the 
 sun — mere mud walls, which, in America, would not 
 resist the climate for a year. The streets are narrow, 
 foul, and precipitous. From this village, our journey 
 of nearly two hours to Delphos, was one high rocky 
 mountain, as rough and savage a road as could be de- 
 sired. Our horses, bad as they were, kept their feet 
 admirably. To the right of this wild and hazardous 
 route, and not much less than a thousand feet below 
 it, is a deep ravine — the bed, nearly dry, of the river 
 Pleistus, which receives at Delphos the water of the 
 Castalian fountain. Beyond this stream the Kirphis 
 rises suddenly — a lofty and almost precipitous moun- 
 tain of perfeexly bare rock. Along the Pleistus, the 
 valley which joins that of Salona, near Krisso, contin- 
 ues without intermission to Delphos, though often nar- 
 rowed to eight or ten rods by the encroachment of the 
 mountain. It is certainly fertile, and smiles with 
 olives and little patches of wheat. 
 
 The whole declivity between our road and this 
 lovely vale, steep and impracticable as it seemed, is 
 under cultivation, except where the rocks arc abso- 
 lutely bare. It is terraced with a skill and industry 
 of which I have seen no other example in Greece. 
 Every spot where a little soil has retained its original 
 
Sarcophagi. 
 
 158 
 
 bed upon tlie rock, or been deposited bj rain, is care- 
 fully tilled; when practicable, oxen are driven up the 
 narrow steep pathways to draw the plough. When 
 this is not possible, they are tilled with the spade or 
 hoe. Some little fields, containing hardly four or five 
 square rods, are yet secured by terraces and sown in 
 wheat. This description is applicable to the whole 
 route from Krisso to Delphos. 
 
 Nearly midway, I think, between these places, we 
 saw several tombs cut out of the face of the mountain. 
 The entrance is semicircular in form, three or four feet 
 deep horizontally, with an excavation of sufficient 
 depth to receive a human body. This was covered 
 with a large slab of stone. These sarcophagi, how- 
 ever, have been broken up, and their contents re- 
 moved. One of them was much larger than the di- 
 mensions given above. The semicircle is, perhaps, 
 ten feet in diameter. The depth is at least eight feet, 
 and there are three sarcophagi, one in front of the en- 
 trance, and one on either hand. 
 
 We descended from a lofty mountain, by a rough 
 and irregular path, practicable only for the horses of 
 the country, into the modern village of Kastri, which 
 certainly stands upon the site of the ancient Delphi. 
 The entrance is near the pass where Perseus, king of 
 Macedon, caused an ambuscade to be laid for the de- 
 struction of Eumenes king of Pergamos. Apart from 
 the associations which belong to this celebrated spot, 
 I have never seen a spot better calculated to inspire 
 wonder and awe. The whole vale of Delphi, includ- 
 ing under that name the whole region bounded by the 
 
154 
 
 Delphi. 
 
 surrounding mountains, is made up of rugged hills and 
 steep declivities. The immediate site of the ancient 
 city has an inclination so great that a pedestrian as- 
 cends from its lower edge with extreme difficulty. 
 The temples and houses were built upon terraces rising 
 one above another like the seats of an amphitheatre. 
 It would have been impossible to support the founda- 
 tion of an edifice of any size without such walls. The 
 surface forms an angle with the horizon scarcely less 
 than forty- five degrees. 
 
 These terraces were built in the most substantial 
 manner, with large blocks of hewn stone. Many ves- 
 tiges of them remain in a very perfect state. Indeed, 
 they constitute the most considerable of the. remains of 
 Delphi, and 'attest the scale of magnificence and mas- 
 sive solidity upon which this renowned city was con- 
 structed. ,Two of the most considerable and perfect 
 of these noble walls now support the superincumbent 
 weight of Christian churches. Both are shabby, mean 
 structures, and form a melancholy contrast with the 
 works of those who formerly reared temples and dwell- 
 ing-places on tliis sacred spot. Some of these fragments 
 of the ancient terraces extend twenty or thirty yards 
 in length — one is, I suppose, twenty-five feet high. 
 
 One of the first objects that attract the attention of 
 the traveller who visits Delphi, is the classic fountain 
 of Castalia. Its situation can hardly disappoint the 
 most extravagant anticipations. The valley is bounded 
 on the north side by Mount Parnassus, which is here 
 nearly perpendicular, and of great height. Its appear- 
 ance is savage in the extreme. The gray and broken 
 
Fountain of Castalia. 155 
 
 rocks are" perfectly bare. Many enormous masses, 
 loosened perhaps by some great convulsion, have 
 tumbled down from the heights above, and now lie in 
 wild irregularity at its base. Others have a threaten- 
 ing aspect. This is the appearance of the mountain 
 along the whole eastern side of the valley, which lies 
 so immediately under its precipitous side, that a person 
 looking towards the mountain cannot see the top, 
 which, from that position, seems to be lost in the 
 clouds. At the immediate spot where the fountain 
 rises, there is a deep fissure in the mountains, apjoarent- 
 ly made by some convulsion. On either side of the 
 chasm two projecting rocks rise between one and two 
 hundred feet perpendicularly. 
 
 From the base of the rock, upon the right, the Cas- 
 talian source springs forth. There is a scarcely per- 
 ceptible horizontal fissure, elevated not more than two 
 or three feet from the earth below. In this is inserted 
 a spout, or rude trough, through which the water 
 pours forth in a copious stream. It is received in a 
 square basin, cut out of the solid rock, of the depth of 
 three or four feet. The descent to this is by several 
 steps also cut in the rock. The mountain above this 
 fountain, and on both sides of it, has been cut to the 
 height of twenty or thirty feet into a perfectly smooth 
 face. In this are several niches, which probably were 
 designed for statues or offerings. Between these and 
 the fountain a kind of chapel is excavated, conse- 
 crated, no doubt, to the presiding divinity, and now, 
 it is said, dedicated to St. J ohu. 
 
 The water is pure and sweet, and not, as has been 
 
156 
 
 Sacred Bocks. 
 
 
 represented, unusually cold. From tlie fountain the 
 .water flows rapidly across the steep inclined plane of 
 Delphi, through a very deep and crooked ravine. Its 
 high banks are adorned with a few venerable olive 
 trees. Many high rocks overhang this classic stream. 
 Others lie across the deep bed, producing a suc- 
 cession of wild cascades. The length of this little 
 stream — ^it might more appropriately be called im- 
 petuous torrent — may be half a mile. It enters the 
 Pleistos between two perpendicular rocks, not less, I 
 conjecture, than fifty feet high, nor more than twenty 
 feet asunder. The old town of Delphi was divided 
 into two parts by this interesting stream. 
 
 The two high projecting rocks above the fountain, 
 which were held to be sacred, gave to the poetic moun- 
 tain the name of Biceps Parnassus. The one on the 
 right hand was called Hyampeia, the other Nauplia. 
 From the former Esop, the fabulist, was thrown ; and 
 Nauplia was the Tarpeian rock of Delphi, from which 
 those who were obnoxious to the gods or their priests 
 were precipitated. High above the sacred fountain are 
 seen clinging to the rock ivy, and a variety of shrubs, 
 some of them flowering. The fig-tree, which is said 
 “ to send its roots into the fissures of the rock, while its 
 wide-spreading branches shed a cool and refreshing 
 gloom over this interesting spot,” has disappeared. 
 “ The majestic plane-tree in front of the spring, defend- 
 ing it from the rays of the sun, which shines on it only 
 a few hours in the day,”* is still in its place, but it no 
 longer cheers and shelters the Castalian spring, as it is 
 * Condor’s Greece. Vol. ii., p. 278. 
 
Narrow Chasm. 
 
 157 
 
 not nearer to it tlian six or seven rods. Even travel- 
 lers take poetic license on tkis inspiring spot. 
 
 The chasm which separates the two sacred rocks is 
 not more than five or six yards wide. The tops of 
 these tall cliffs are nearer to each other than their 
 bases. Ilyampeia leans over towards Nauplia. This 
 chasm runs back into the mountain, I conjecture, 
 several hundred feet, diminishing in depth, not gi’ad- 
 ually, but so as to form three terraces or platforms 
 rising at intervals one above another. These arc 
 ascended by ancient steps cut in the marble rock. 
 Wilder and Clarke were unable to ascend these steps. 
 They present, however, no considerable difficulty. 
 The steps are polished by ancient use, so as to have 
 become slippery, and they have rather an inconvenient 
 inclination over the chasm. I ascended them, how- 
 ever, as did my companion, without harm. The third 
 terrace is inaccessible. Seen from the second, it has 
 the appearance of the mouth of a cavern. I threw into 
 it several stones, which disturbed some wild fowl who 
 found shelter there. They soared aloft, with much 
 noise, amongst the higher peaks of Parnassus. 
 
CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 . »*■ .: ^ 
 
 » 
 
 DELPHI. - -i ^ 
 
 South-east of the fount, and at the distance of 
 three or four hundred yards, are the remains' of the 
 ancient gymnasium. A part of its site is occupied by 
 a church dedicated to the Virgin. The location is 
 known from the description of ancient writers, and is 
 clearly identified by some massive walls, probably the 
 terrace which supported the structure, which are in ex- 
 cellent preservation. The church has been rebuilt 
 once or oftener, has still some ancient pillars (four) in 
 its vestibule, and other fragments of marble in its 
 •walls. Indeed, there seems to be a prevalent ambition 
 to distinguish not only churches but private houses, and 
 these mere cottages or mean hovels, with some noble ves- 
 tige of antiquity. You see fragments of precious and 
 finely -wrought marble in the walls of a stable. The 
 houses, built of huge bricks baked in the sun, have 
 their corner-stones from the huge blocks which formed 
 the terraces of Delphi. The combination is grotesque, 
 but not uninstructive. It is a mighty and quite unpar- 
 alleled display of modern skill and enterprise, to re- 
 move one of these masses from its place, and raise it a 
 
Ancient Structures. 
 
 159 
 
 few feet in a modern wall. Indeed, they are seldom 
 seen more than two or three feet high. It is hardly 
 coneeivable by what art this fallen and uncivilized race 
 have been able to demolish the works of their ances- 
 tors. They can construct only such as are the most 
 frail and clumsy. 
 
 The research of travellers and antiquaries has not 
 been able to fix upon the site of but one more of all 
 the magnificent structures which are known to have - 
 adorned this sacred metropolis. The splendid temple 
 of Apollo has been so completely destroyed, that the 
 most patient inquiry has not been able to bring to the 
 light a single well authenticated vestige. The stadium, 
 however, had a position so peculiar, and was construct- 
 ed of such indestructible materials, that it has obtain- 
 ed a more honorable destiny. It is in the western, 
 highest part of Delphi, above the present village. The 
 ascent to it is all but impossible, and is another instance 
 of the higher value of the ancient Greeks for a lofty 
 and imposing site than for a convenient one. The 
 stadium, which is of an oblong form, like that of 
 Athens, was more than six hundred feet long. It was 
 bounded on the north by the side of the mountain, 
 east and west by high rocks, and on the south by a 
 rapid descent towards the town. Here a magnificent 
 terrace was built to support it, a considerable part of 
 which remains. The stones are hewn and massive. 
 One is four yards long. A number of stone seats re- 
 main. On the eastern side six courses are cut in the 
 solid rock. 
 
 The valley of Delphi is secluded from the world by 
 
160 
 
 Fountain of Castalia. 
 
 lofty mountains. Parnassus on the north, and Kirphis 
 on the south, rise u]d and overshadow it like cyclopean 
 battlements. Towards the west the elevation is less, 
 though very considerable, whilst the circuit of moun- 
 tains towards the east is completed by many swells and 
 broken ridges, among which the valley is impercepti- 
 bly blended and lost in an Alpine background. 
 
 The village of Kastri is one of the most crowded, 
 filthy, and mean in a country where all are miserable 
 enough. The streets zig-zag without reason. They 
 arc so narrow that you can hardly ride through them 
 on your mule, and so precipitous as to test the skill of 
 that sagacious animal. To add to the difficulty and 
 disgust, piles of manure and offensive offal are abun- 
 dant. It was by such approaches that we arrived near 
 the sacred Castalian Spring. And here, as if to teach 
 us how closely allied are the sublime and the ridicu- 
 ^ lous — ^how near a neighbor, sentiment is to vulgarity — 
 
 our approach to the source of poetic inspiration was 
 literally blocked up, not by the sacred nine guarding 
 the portals of Apollo from the profane, but by just 
 twelve washer- women, the most coarse and unclassical 
 of the genus, half clad in hairy -stuff petticoats of un- 
 dyed wool, ragged and dirty, and extending just below 
 the knee I They were washing foul clothes in the 
 stream just below the basin, with water that issued 
 from the sacred fountain ! 
 
 Upon leaving Delphi by the Thebes and Athens 
 road, we passed some ruins which were without the 
 walls of the city. A confused mass of large hewn 
 stones, with some fragments of columns, indicated per- 
 
Ancient Cemetery. 
 
 161 
 
 haps the site of some temple or other considerable 
 structure. This was an ancient cemetery, and many 
 massive sarcophagi, excavated in blocks of hewn stone, 
 about seven or eight feet long, by three or four in 
 width and height, lay upon the ground in all direc- 
 tions. They had all been opened ; the ponderous lids, 
 some broken, were near each one. Of course, nothing 
 remains of their former tenants. One of white marble 
 is only partially disinterred. It seems to have been 
 recently discovered. The lid is entire, though it has been 
 removed. It has some beautiful emblematical figures 
 sculptured upon both its exterior sides. I was struck 
 with two eagles in bas-relief of exquisite workmanship. 
 
 The valley of Delphi, throughout its whole extent, 
 exhibits a more improved and industrious tillage than 
 I had yet seen in Greece. Olive-trees occupy much of 
 the lowest ground. The terraces upon which the old 
 town was built are sown in wheat, and for many miles 
 along the road the sides of the mountains were culti- 
 vated to the highest possible point. The higher parts 
 of these declivities are terraced with great labor, though 
 unskilfully, and planted with the vine, which seems to 
 thrive well, almost up to the region of snow. Many 
 barracks rise up amongst these vineyards, upon which 
 the small stones gathered from the arable land are piled 
 to such a height as to have the appearance of low py- 
 ramids. Our way was along the side of the mountain, 
 elevated, I should think, much more than a thousand 
 feet above the level of the vale upon our right. After 
 nearly three hours, we mounted still higher upon what 
 seemed to be a spire of Mount Parnassus. 
 
162 
 
 Ar AKOB A. 
 
 The weather, which during the forenoon, and till 
 two o’clock, was so warm, that I had to shelter myself 
 from the rays of the sun with an umbrella, was now 
 • intensely cold. Our road continued to ascend, and to 
 become more precipitous and difficult, till we arrived, 
 a little after sunset,. at the village of Arakoba. This 
 place has nearly two hundred houses, rudely built, 
 after the fashion of the country, upon the top of the 
 ridge. A more wild and ill-adapted situation could 
 hardly be found. The narrow dirty streets are pre- 
 cipitous. The people are peasants, cultivating the 
 vineyards and olives upon which we had gazed with 
 so much pleasure for the last two hours, as well as the 
 region still farther north. ‘ 
 
 The produce of these fields, as well as the fuel, which 
 at this aerial spot is an important article, is transported 
 from the deep glens and steejD declivities where they 
 grow, to the top of the high and nearly inaccessible 
 mountain. It probably never occurred to these primi- 
 tive men that a better arrangement could be made 
 than the onerous one which they have no doubt in- 
 herited from their forefathers. The spot had the ad- 
 vantage of good water, and is reputed to be signally 
 favorable to longevity. Its remote and difficult posi- 
 tion ought,' it should seem, to confer upon tlie people 
 the boon of security from the violence of war. This 
 quiet village, however, was the scene of a fierce battle 
 between the Greeks and Turks, and, like other towns 
 of this country, was destroyed. 
 
 We stayed in this village not at the ordinary khan, 
 but with an acquaintance of our interpreter, who has a 
 
Style of Building. 
 
 163 
 
 brother a merchant in Athens. lie was a proprietor 
 and agriculturist, superior in wealth and respectability 
 to the ordinary peasant. It gave me an opportunity 
 of forming some notion of the style and domestic 
 habits of this class — a thing I had much desired; The 
 house is built in the usual village fashion, partly of small 
 stones, of all shapes, laid in a mortar made of clay, 
 partly of sun-dried bricks of a large size. A wall con- 
 structed of these at first shows the different strata of 
 which it is composed, but after a longer exposure to 
 the weather, exhibits only a uniform surface of earth 
 or dried mud. Such a structure would be decomposed 
 by the vicissitudes of our American spring. Here 
 it stands for years. 
 
 I thought when I first saw the slight and ill-looking 
 houses, of which not only the agricultural villages, 
 but the cities too, are to a great extent composed, that 
 they were cheap and hasty constructions, run up after 
 the desolations of the Eevolution, to be replaced by ■ 
 better as soon as circumstances may permit. Upon 
 a careful examination of the old walls, which cover no • 
 small part of the surface of all the towns in Grreece, I 
 have found them uniformly built in the same barbar- 
 ous way. It is the architecture of the country, as sub- 
 stantial and sumptuous now, I presume, as it has been 
 at least for two centuries, or the period of the Turkish 
 rule. The house of our entertainer was floored with 
 rough planks, no common luxury here, where you see 
 the bare earth through almost every open door in the 
 villages. There was no glass, though there were win- 
 lows in one of the rooms closed with plank shutters. 
 
164 
 
 A Greek Family 
 
 There were no windows in the room where we spent 
 the evening. Two small holes through the tile roof 
 served in their place. 
 
 The family were seated upon some old blankets, 
 thrown down around the fire. There was a kind of 
 chimney, but most of the smoke passed off by the 
 windows in the roof. In most of the houses I have 
 seen this is the only provision, the fire being made 
 upon a sort of hearth just under these apertures. The 
 smoke, of course, pervades the room, and passes off 
 leisurely. Some very coarse chairs were brought for 
 us, as we declined sitting upon the floor, and asked for 
 chairs, or some substitute for them. We saw also a 
 coarse table. A few indispensable implements for 
 cooking and for eating made up the sum of household 
 stuff. No beds or bedsteads Avere in use. A mat, an 
 old capote, thrown upon the floor or upon a low bench, 
 arc the substitute. I believe the people sleep in their 
 ’ wearing-apparel — at least I have seen many do it. The 
 table and chairs of this family may be taken, I sup- 
 pose, for luxuries, since at most of our lodging-houses 
 we do not find them, — at least Ave seldom enjoy both 
 in the same place. A few dollars Avould furnish the 
 house of a peasant in the usual style. 
 
 A mode of living so comfortless I have nowhere 
 seen, except perhaps in Ireland, Avhere deep poverty 
 prevails to an extent that leaves nothing to the masses 
 beyond the bare means of a AVTetched existence. In 
 Greece, the idea of comfort seems to be Avanting amongst 
 the peasantry. Those Avho have means have no Avants. 
 Tlie poorest hut in the United States contains several 
 
Mode of Living. 
 
 165 
 
 articles wliicli to them would not only be unheard of 
 luxuries, but of which they could not conjecture the 
 use. Cleanliness is quite unthought of. Everything, 
 — the entrance, the floors, the tables, the utensils, the 
 clothes, the person, — is disgustingly filthy. As to 
 food, judging from what I have seen, and more from 
 what I have heard from Greeks, as well as foreigners 
 well acquainted with their habits, I am sure that the 
 subsistence of five Greeks costs less than that of an 
 American laborer. A black, coarse, but not unpalata* 
 ble bread, which costs in common times less than two 
 cents per pound, and a few olives, which cost hardly 
 a tenth part of that sum, constitute almost their only 
 food. 
 
 The use of animal food, including cheese, butter and 
 milk, as well as meat, is prohibited by the church for 
 several months in the year. But the whole year is 
 Lent with the masses, who do not think of eating flesh. 
 It is perhaps difficult to assign the causes which have 
 led to a mode of living so very frugal and abstemious. 
 Perhaps it has descended from the ancient Greeks. I 
 fear that there is no good reason to believe that civili- 
 zation ever proceeded beyond the large towns. Per- 
 haps the barbarous government under which this peo- 
 ple have so long been degraded, has had its influence 
 upon their modes of living. Under a system of legal 
 plunder and rapacity, the possession of property be- 
 comes a crime, and every symptom of luxury and com- 
 fort Ls studiously avoided, through forethought and 
 fear. Whatever the cause may be, it is undeniable 
 
166 
 
 Mode of Living. 
 
 - that one meets here with few proofs of that pervading 
 civilization which never exists without being mani- 
 fested in the decencies and conveniences of common 
 life. 
 
CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 LI V ADI A. 
 
 December 11th. Our journey to Livadia, a dis- 
 tance of seven hours and a half, according to the meas- 
 urement of this country, which allows about three miles 
 to the hour, led us through one of the most desolate 
 parts we have yet seen in Greece, though far from 
 being the most rough or sterile. I remember see- 
 ing only two human habitations in a distance of fif- 
 teen miles. Much of this region is too mountainous 
 for tillage, but we passed through a good deal of land 
 which has been cultivated and is now evidently capa- 
 ble of a very profitable agriculture. It is overrun 
 with brambles and useless shrubs. It bears little grass, 
 which, however, is grazed by flocks of sheep and goats. 
 There are in Greece vast quantities of arable land lying 
 waste, more useless than abandoned fields in the Uni- 
 ted States, as nature does not here clothe such lands 
 with a new growth of forest trees. With the excep- 
 tion of a few stunted pines, I have not yet seen a forest 
 tree in Greece. It is not easy to conjecture why, in a 
 country like this, which, with 800,000 inhabitants, and 
 certainly not 8,000 square uniles of good land, cannot 
 
168 
 
 Ll VADI A. 
 
 be tliouglit tliinlj peopled, so large a part of tbe ara- 
 ble land remains untilled. 
 
 The vast extent of the publie domains, with a most 
 preposterous system of managing them — ^the iniquitous 
 system of collecting the revenue by tythes, which 
 tends directly to throw out of cultivation all but lands 
 of the first quality — the want of roads and consequent 
 want of good accessible markets — together with a prev- 
 alent want of capital, are possibly the chief cause. I 
 ' suspect, too, that there is a disinclination to agricul- 
 tural pursuits. It seems to me that the people show a 
 - decided preference for town life, however mean, with 
 some petty trade or mercantile speculation. It strikes 
 me that the number of shops, in all the cities and large 
 villages I have seen, is out of all proportion to the 
 population and business. Everything is subdivided, 
 and the articles of trade and merchandise seen in a 
 dozen shops ought to be in one. 
 
 The land is very good in the immediate neighborhood 
 of Lavidia, where we passed the night. The city has a 
 considerable population ; I could not learn the precise 
 amount. Under the Turkish rule, when it was the seat 
 of government for a large part of Greece, it was an im- 
 portant place, and contained, it is said, twenty thousand 
 inhabitants. It may have six thousand now. It is 
 built upon the edge of the extensive and rich plain 
 which bears its name, and extends back upon the side 
 of the high mountain tliat overlooks it from tlic south. 
 The view is very imposing and beautiful on approach- 
 ing the town as we did. No illusion, however, was 
 ever more completely removed than was this upon 
 
L I V A D I A. 
 
 169 
 
 closer inspection. A town so badly laid out, so mean- 
 ly built, and so shamefully dirty, I have certainly not 
 often seen. Yet the people are said to be rich, and 
 they certainly possess, in the fertile plain they culti- 
 vate, an inexhaustible source of opulence. The situa- 
 tion is decidedly unhealthy, and the pale and sickly 
 faces one meets with, aggravate the unfavorable im- 
 pression made upon a stranger by a contemplation of 
 the interior deformities of the city. 
 
 Livadia, the old Lebadea, has no antiquities, though 
 it existed, as is well known, and was a large and pop- 
 ulous city in the early days of the Grecian republics. 
 I saw a few fragments of wrought marble and some 
 broken pillars in the walls of a church near the citadel 
 Antiquarians have discovered nothing which they 
 have thought worth recording. It is, however, a con- 
 nection with the mythology of Greece which gives 
 to this locality a peculiar interest It is well ascer- 
 tained that the allegorical fountains of Memory and 
 Oblivion are within the limits of this city. They are 
 south-east of the present Livadia, just beyond the limit 
 occupied by human habitations. 
 
 On this side of the city is a citadel, a high and com- 
 manding rock, fortified at the top, and once thought 
 impregnable. It is now neglected. This immense 
 rock appears to be one end of the high bare mountain 
 which lies behind the city, and it is severed from it 
 by a profound gulf of nearly perpendicular sides, and 
 not more than twenty-five yards in vddth, which inter- 
 venes between these threatening cliffs. A winter tor- 
 rent of no great magnitude meanders and leaps along 
 
 8 
 
170 
 
 Fountain of Oblivion. 
 
 this dark chasm for nearly a mile — its bed piled np 
 and obstructed by vast fragments of rock that have 
 fallen from the overhanging mountains. Altogether, 
 it is a scene of peculiar and savage grandeur. Just as 
 the termination of this ravine, next to the city, and 
 under the eastern side of the rock of the citadel, rises 
 the fountain of Memory. It runs sluggishly from the 
 roek, rather below than above the surface of the earth. 
 Its water has the appearance of being stagnant rather 
 than a living stream. Almost immediately oppo- 
 site, across the bed of the winter torrent above de- 
 scribed, is the fountain of Oblivion. It springs from 
 under a high bank — at once a copious stream, which, 
 with the humble aid of the fountain of Memory, which 
 immediately joins it, turns several mills in the first 
 quarter of a mile, and flows away to the plain. 
 
 The aneients called this stream the river Ilercyna. 
 It is said, in a very respectable book of travel, that the 
 larger of these fountains still retains its ancient name, 
 Lephe — a manifest corruption of Lethe. Another trav- 
 eller (Dr. Clarke) has said that its waters are “troubled 
 and muddy.” To my eye they are beautifully trans- 
 parent and clear. I walked from my khan half a 
 mile, just after daybreak, provided with soap, towel, 
 and tooth-brush, and there performed my morning ab- 
 lutions. The water is rather warm for a living spring. 
 It is soft .to an uncommon degree, and pleasant to the 
 taste. 
 
 Not only are these fountains of great poetieal inter- 
 est ; the place was manifestly consecrated by religious 
 observances. Only a few feet from the fountain of 
 
Ancient Chamber. 
 
 171 
 
 Memory, in tlie eastern face of the lofty mount of the 
 citadel, a chamber is cut out of the solid rock, not less 
 than a dozen feet in length, eight or ten high, and 
 nearly as many in width. ISTear this apartment are 
 several niches cut deep into the rock, manifestly for 
 containing statues and votive offerings. These remains 
 leave no doubt, that this spot was once consecrated to 
 the religious sentiments, with which the mythology and 
 poetry of the ancient Greeks were so intimately blend- 
 ed. This chamber contained, at no remote era, the re- 
 mains of some elegant painting, no doubt antique. All 
 is, however, now blackened and obliterated by smoke. 
 The chamber has apparently given shelter to some 
 houseless family during the devastating war of the 
 revolution, and no vestige remains of whatever it might 
 have previously preserved to gratify the taste of the 
 amateur in the fine arts. 
 
CHAPTER XX. 
 
 LEUCTKA AND PLATEA 
 
 December 12th. We rode more than four hours 
 along the great fertile plain that spreads out east and 
 north, from Livadia towards Boeotia. It can hardly be 
 less than fifteen miles in length, by ten or twelve wide. 
 It is a perfect level, bounded on all sides by mountains, 
 and it was probably once a vast lake, which has been 
 partially drained by some convulsion of nature. No 
 inconsiderable portion of it, on the side most remote 
 from the city, is still too low and humid for cultivation. 
 A part of it is still a lake, and was anciently called the 
 lake of Copais. In rainy seasons a large tract is over- 
 flowed with water, and generates disease in the villages 
 as well as in Livadia. 
 
 This plain, as well as the more elevated land that 
 borders upon it, is extremely fertile, and produces 
 wheat, Indian corn, rice, and cotton, abundantly. The 
 cotton-plant is below the height of even inferior lands 
 in the United States, owing probably to bad culture. 
 It is not planted in rows, so as to be tilled with the 
 plough and hoe, as with us, but sown broad cast. 
 This large tract contains a considerable number of 
 
Chekonea and Leuctra. 173 
 
 populous villages. The village of Kaprena is upon its 
 border, not more than three miles from Livadia. It 
 was in plain view as we left the latter town, and dur- 
 ing almost the whole of our journey along the plain. 
 It occupies the site of the ancient Cheronea, where the 
 liberties of Greece fell a prey to the victorious ambi- 
 tion of Philip of Macedon. After a very fatiguing 
 ride of about eight and a half hours, we stopped upon 
 another renowned battle-field, where the invincible 
 Spartans were first defeated in a pitched battle by the 
 Theban Pelopidas. 
 
 The city of Leuctra, though not large, must have 
 been very well fortified,' and probably contained sev- 
 eral large temples and other public edifices. This is 
 apparent from the very considerable remains which lie 
 scattered over rich corn-fields that occupy this fertile 
 region. Large blocks of hewn stone are to be seen 
 half buried by the plough. Many stand upright at 
 regular distances, apparently designed to mark the line 
 of division between different proprietors. There are 
 three or four piles of these massive stones, which were 
 formerly Greek chapels, and were probably demolished 
 by the Turks during the late war. Fragments of 
 columns and well-wrought marble architraves are con- 
 fusedly intermixed, in these rude edifices, with the 
 large oblong masses that once formed the citadel or 
 the walls of Leuctra. Two or three fountains are con- 
 structed of the same kind of materials. 
 
 I saw two or three beautiful bas-reliefs, in white 
 marble, half concealed in the mud. I especially recol- 
 lect one block of precious marble, Avith a vine exquis- 
 
174 
 
 Khan of Leuctra. 
 
 itely chiselled and in perfect preservation. This prob- 
 ably formed a part of the frieze of some very sumptu- 
 ous edifice. Upon another was sculptured a man on 
 horseback, which, though greatly mutilated, seemed to 
 have been wrought by a skilful hand. The circuit of 
 the walls is distinctly marked, not' only by vestiges of 
 the stone- work, but by a mound of earth and loose 
 stones, which rises in many places as high as eight or 
 ten feet, and forms a large quadrangle. I did not 
 measure the length of the wall, but think it not less 
 than half or three-quarters of a mile. I have no book 
 in my possession which notices these ruins, though 
 they are too considerable to have been passed unob- 
 served. 
 
 The khan of Leuctra is decidedly the worst we have 
 yet encountered. It has neither floor nor chimney, 
 neither table nor chairs. In this most filthy of nations, 
 this spot is entitled to the bad eminence of being re- 
 markably foul. To complete the catalogue of dis- 
 agreeables, besides Mr. and Mrs. C., myself and our 
 dragoman, the room was also occupied by our mule- 
 teers and several other persons. The Greeks tumbled 
 down upon the ground, and fell asleep like so many 
 hogs. We made the best use we could of some old 
 mats -and what bedding we had with us, and then 
 spent a nearly sleepless night in a vain and unequal 
 controversy with swarms of fleas. I have reason to 
 remember the khan of Leuctra. I ought not to omit 
 the only alleviation of our unpleasant situation. We 
 made an excellent supper on some wild ducks which 
 Demetrius bought upon the plain of Livadia at twelve 
 
Plate A. 
 
 175 
 
 and a half cents apiece. These delicious fowls abound 
 amongst the pools and marshes that cover so large a 
 part of that extensive valley. 
 
 Dec. 13th. A ride of three hours on a very wretch- 
 ed road, rendered all but impassable by deep mud, 
 brought us from Leuctra to another spot memorable in 
 the annals of Greece. The ancient Platea was built 
 about a mile north of a high ridge of mountains, and 
 just upon the border of that extensive tract of rich 
 land that stretches with little interruption from Li- 
 vadia to Thebes, and has ever been regarded the best 
 agricultural region in Greece. Its fertility seems in no 
 degree exhausted by centuries of unskilfal cultivation. 
 I could not discover that any attention was bestowed 
 upon manures. The ploughing is of the worst possi- 
 ble description. It is shallow and unskilful — a sort of 
 ridge is formed by throwing two furrows towards each 
 other, covering at least as much of unbroken surface 
 as is stirred by the plough. «The wheat springs u]3 
 from the dark rich soil thus imperfectly prepared a 
 broad, rank shoot, and the stubble of the former har- 
 vest, sufficiently attests that the matured grain is an- 
 swerable to its early promise. 
 
 The great battlefield under the walls of Platea, is 
 of the most luxuriant fertility. One might be led to 
 think that the blood of the warriors slain upon some 
 of the most celebrated fields of ancient and mod- 
 ern times, has imparted an inexhaustible richness to 
 the soil. Waterloo,^ Leipzig, and Dresden, are the 
 most productive corn lands in western Europe, and 
 the renowned plains of Mantinea, Leuctra, and Platea,. 
 
176 
 
 Ancient Ee mains. 
 
 have a striking resemblance to these in the color and 
 quality of their soil. They are the best lands in 
 G reece. The remains of this ancient city are consider- 
 able — sufficient to mark its position for many centuries 
 to come, though they possess none of the sumptuous- 
 magnificence which belongs to those of Athens^ and 
 to some other single monuments of Grecian taste and 
 skill. 
 
 Two or three large heaps of massive hewn stones^ 
 intermingled with blocks of wrought marble and frag- 
 ments of columns, sufficiently mark the position of 
 some of the most considerable public edifices of this 
 city. The modern Greeks,, with that preposterous- 
 ingenuity by which they are perpetually putting 
 their puny works in humiliating contrast with the 
 splendid creations of their noble ancestors, have con- 
 structed churches of these beautiful materials, arrang- 
 ing them without taste or skill — a bit of curiously 
 Avrought architrave in' the foundation — a huge block 
 of gray breccia upon the fragments of a marble col- 
 umn — ^those masses which Avere too ponderous for the 
 unaided human strength or clumsy machinery, wrought 
 into the Avail edgewise or perpendicular, as they Avere 
 able — the interstices and inequalities filled with bricks 
 and broken stones in the most bungling manner. For- 
 tunately, the no less barbarous Turks have nearly de- 
 molished all these grotesque constructions. Besides 
 these temples and public buildings, there ’are consider- 
 able remains of the walls of the city, which are con- 
 structed of large blocks of hcAvn stone. At least they 
 Avere faced interiorly and Avithout, Avith these stones 
 
Walls of the City. 177 
 
 laid without cement, whilst the space between was filled 
 up with smaller stones laid in mortar or with earth. 
 
 The foundations of the northern wall remain to a 
 considerable extent entire : one course, and a part of 
 the way, two or three courses of stones, remain in their 
 original position, and above the present surface of the 
 ground. The accumulation of rubbish is eight or ten 
 feet in height, and no doubt the wall remains entire at 
 least to that height. It narrows gradually from the 
 base, and the part now visible is about ten feet thick 
 at the top. There are two or three projections in the 
 northern wall, which were probably towers. There 
 are similar indications at the two terminations, or at 
 the angles made by this with the walls on the east and 
 west sides of the town. A mound of earth, together 
 with scattered blocks of stone, distinctly marks the 
 whole extent of the wall that enclosed the city. 
 
 The interior of the city, which is under tillage, is 
 raised from five to ten feet above the surrounding 
 field, by the accumulation of rubbish. I looked with 
 peculiar interest upon these memorials of the little city 
 of Platea, which was distinguished amongst the cotem- 
 porary Grecian states, by its gallantry and good faith. 
 When more powerful states were terrified at the ap- 
 proach of the hosts of Persia, Platea alone sent a thou- 
 sand men to fight for liberty by the side of the Athe- 
 nians at Marathon. Her citizens distinguished them- 
 selves throughout the war, and much in the memorable 
 action which has given immortality to her name. 
 Platea, too, was true to her alliances, and remained 
 ever the fast friend of inconstant but glorious Athens. 
 
CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 THEBES. 
 
 From Platea to Thebes is a ride of about three hours 
 through a lovely and fertile region. For the last four 
 or five miles, our road lay through lands belonging to 
 the government, which, though equal to any in the 
 world in quality, are here as elsewhere wholly unculti- 
 vated. Several large flocks of sheep were scattered 
 over this untilled region ; the shepherds and their huge 
 dogs sauntering listlessly along the sides of the road, 
 to gaze and bark at passers-by, for want of some more 
 pressing employment. The public lands seem to be 
 used as a common, where cattle and sheep graze with- 
 out restraint, and where the people from the towns and 
 villages cut wood for fuel, whenever they can find a 
 stunted thorn or holly fit for that purpose. 
 
 This is one principal use of the public ‘ domains. 
 They seem not to be preferred by cultivators ; though 
 let at a lower rate than private lands. The govern- 
 ment is not liked as a landlord. Other proprietors aid 
 the tenant in various ways ; by advancing seed-corn, 
 by furnishing half or all the oxen and donkeys, and 
 the implements of husbandry. All these accommoda- 
 
Thebes. 
 
 179 
 
 tioiis are paid for in the division of the crop, but they 
 enable the tenant, who has little or no capital, to begin. 
 Even those who do not need such advances are said to 
 be fond of obtaining them, from the inveterate habit 
 contracted under a. rapacious government of hoarding 
 all acquisitions, and exposing nothing that can be se- 
 cured or concealed, to the risk of business investments. 
 It is from the same cause that many in easy or even in 
 affluent circumstances appear like beggars in their dress 
 and habitations. Under the Turkish domination, the 
 knowledge that a man possessed property led almost 
 certainly to some judicial fraud or barefaced act of vio- 
 lence to rob him of it. There is now probably no 
 fear of such atrocities ; but habits change slowly, and 
 Greece will long wear the ugly scars of wounds really 
 healed. They must for a time remain barbarous, be- 
 cause injustice and oppression, no longer dominant, 
 have made barbarians of them. 
 
 Thebes is not built upon a mountain, nor does it 
 contain any lofty cliff, which could afford a retreat to 
 its inhabitants in times of peril. Of the principal 
 towns of ancient Greece whose site I have visited, this 
 is the first which appears to have been chosen in refer- 
 ence to any other advantages than those of defence. 
 Athens and Corinth, though addicted to commerce, 
 chose their positions by the side of mountains, rather 
 than upon the borders of those safe and capacious har- 
 bors that were in their neighborhood, and offered such 
 facilities for commercial enterprises. Security from ex- 
 ternal violence was the first want to be provided for. 
 Thebes is in the midst of rich corn-fields. It is four 
 
180 
 
 Thebes. 
 
 or five miles from any liigli mountain, and between it 
 and the nearest range spreads one of the most lovely 
 and fertile plains in Greece. The ancient walls contain- 
 ed several hills of considerable elevation, and no large 
 tract of level ground, so the city may be said to have 
 been built upon hills. It has no splendid remains. 
 The old wall is traceable in many places. It was built, 
 like the ramparts of other Grecian towns, of large 
 square stones. Many of these remain in their original 
 position. Others have been converted into fountains, 
 churches, and foundations. The remains of an ancient 
 fosse outside of the wall are also observable. No fine 
 temples have been discovered, and yet a multitude of 
 antique columns of various orders and of marbles are 
 seen partially buried, or inserted in the walls and in 
 terior of modern churches. 
 
 These certainly belonged to ancient edifices ; and 
 from the many manifestations in difierent parts of the 
 town, where the rubbish has been partially removed to 
 found new houses, or for other purposes, I am persuad- 
 ed that precious monuments of art lie profusely scatter- 
 ed under the accumulations of rubbish which are here 
 of very unusual height, and seem to have been little 
 molested by the curiosity of the antiquary. Extensive 
 excavations, judiciously conducted, may add much to 
 our present knowledge of Grecian scul]Dture and archi- 
 tecture. At least it may demonstrate that Thebes has 
 been too hastily declared to possess nothing of the 
 curious and instructive memorials of the past, which 
 seem to be the only valuable heritage of these fallen 
 cities. 
 
Modern Thebes. 
 
 181 
 
 Here are several towns evidently, of the Venetian 
 age, built of the ruins of more beautiful and substan- 
 tial structures than these merchant princes were able 
 to construct. There is something painful in marking 
 the progress from bad to worse in the memorials left by 
 the successive masters of Greece, since the days of her 
 glory ; from the Komans, the Byzantines, the Vene- 
 tians, the Turks, and so far, I fear, we must say the 
 modern Greeks, the deterioration has been uninterrupt- 
 ed, and has followed every change. 
 
 Thebes is now meanly and stragglingly built, a clus- * 
 ter of mud cottages here and there, with little atten- 
 tion to streets or any other principle of regularity. 
 Few of the houses are of solid construction. It is in 
 the midst of modern as well as of ancient ruins. The 
 rubbish from fallen structures is an immense pile and 
 of great depth, extending over much of the town. I 
 am not aware that any considerable attempt has been 
 made at excavation in Thebes to disinter ancient re- 
 mains. Such must exist here as well as in the other 
 large towns, and probably would richly repay the ex- 
 pense of the search. Under a settled and enlight- 
 ened government, something of the kind may soon be 
 attempted. Thebes acted no very distinguished part 
 in Grecian politics, nor was she ever honored by many 
 literary men. Still, she had wealth, and a large popu- 
 lation, and, it is to be presumed, public edifices in some 
 measure commensurate with them. The columns and 
 other fragments already disinterred are certainly inferior 
 to what might have been expected in such a city, so 
 long the metropolis of the most fertile state in Greece. 
 
182 
 
 Khan of Thebes. 
 
 December 14th. I have had another opportnnity 
 of examining the situation of Thebes, and it certainly 
 had more strength as a military position than I at first 
 supposed. Immediately west of the city is a deep val- 
 ley, the descent of which, though not precipitous, is 
 very steep, and susceptible of easy and efficient defence 
 against all the modes of warfare known to the ancients. 
 The hill which overlooks this valley is the highest in 
 the city, and upon it probably the ancient citadel was 
 situated. 
 
 We were disappointed in not finding more tolerable 
 accommodation in a place of so much importance, its 
 population being hardly less than five or six thou- 
 sand, and the surrounding region certainly the most 
 fertile in the kingdom. The only inn or khan is 
 one of tlie worst in a country where all are intol- 
 erably bad. We had our choice of several rooms 
 upon the second story, and selected the one which, 
 though probably the best in the house, proved to be 
 immediately above the stable. In the stable, which 
 was very large, not only horses and asses had quar- 
 ters, but also the muleteers and guides, to the number, 
 if a judgment might be formed from their incessant 
 vociferations, of at least a dozen. I do not think 
 they were all silent during an entire quarter of an 
 liour throughout the night. The asses, too, were 
 vocal, and huge dogs ever and anon joined in the 
 chorus. The horses, though ordinarily silent and 
 quiet animals, were adorned with bells similar to those 
 put upon cows in America, which they wear at all 
 
A Memorable Night. 
 
 183 
 
 times, and were tlins enabled. to act no inferior part 
 in this dismal concert. 
 
 In a room next to us were stretched a half dozen or 
 more Greeks, who either talked or snored incessantly. 
 Hard by was a man ill with a fever. He groaned or 
 raved at almost every breath. Another annoyance 
 still more intimate we had in the fumes of the manure 
 from the stable. The night was warm, and the odor 
 was nearly suffocating. To finish the catalogue of 
 misfortunes, swarms of fieas devoured us from the mo- 
 ment we attempted to sleep. Such a night of restless- 
 ness, and almost of agony, I have seldom experienced. 
 I rose without refreshment, feverish and excited. A 
 walk at daybreak in the balmy atmosphere revived me 
 a good deal, and I set-out upon the journey of the 
 day, assured at least that I could hardly fare worse 
 during the two additional nights which I must pass 
 before returning to my comfortable hotel in Athens. 
 

 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 B (EOTIA. 
 
 The level country which we had passed in travelling 
 for the last two days, continues with little interruption 
 to the long arm of the sea, that separates the island of 
 Negropont from the mainland of Greece. Through 
 this beautiful and fertile region, the more agreeable to 
 us on account of its striking contrast to all that we 
 had hitherto seen in Greece, lay our route for the day. 
 The road was very good for horseback travelling, and 
 even a carriage might pass with little difficulty over 
 the greater part of the route. Such a luxury, how- 
 ever, has not probably been seen in Boeotia since the 
 fall of the Byzantine empire. At first, we rode by 
 ploughed fields of that dark, rich mould which we had 
 so much admired around Leuctra and Platea, and from 
 thence to Thebes. Then succeeded a large tract, which 
 I took to be of the government domain from its being 
 allowed to lie waste, though of exuberant fertility. 
 After the first two hours, the soil is lighter but still 
 very productive. 
 
 This is the season for sowing wheat, and a multitude 
 of ploughs, drawn always by oxen, were in motion here 
 
Cattle. 
 
 185 
 
 and every where upon this magnificent plain. I have 
 not seen any other animal attached to the plough in 
 Greece, nor have I seen the ox employed in any other 
 way. He is a small lean animal, more active far than the 
 ox of New England, but certainly not half so heavy. 
 The yoke is, I think, nearly six feet in length. I 
 have seen a multitude of oxen in all parts of agri- 
 cultural Greece, — certainly many hundred pair, — ^but 
 scarcely a dozen cows in my whole excursion. All 
 other cattle seem to be equally scarce. They are prob- 
 ably consumed in the large towns, whilst the oxen are ‘ 
 reserved for agriculture. The cattle and sheep of 
 Greece were nearly exterminated by the war. Horned 
 cattle are yet very scarce, whilst sheep, which are more 
 prolific, are now as abundant as ever. I much.jdoubt 
 whether the country is favorable to milch cows. It is 
 dry, and the grazing land neither good nor abundant, 
 at least in the parts I have visited. The grass and 
 other vegetation that grows upon the mountains and 
 other uncultivated lands, is sufficient to maintain the 
 flocks of sheep, though the mutton is lean and insipid 
 and the wool coarse. It is at least as much for the 
 dairy as for these products that sheep are reared. 
 
 I have not tasted their milk, but I have their butter, 
 wffiich is strong and unsavory. Milk is very scarce. 
 We have inquired for it at every stopping-place, but 
 have obtained it only once during our whole journey. 
 It is said to be out of season for this luxury. Swine, 
 
 I think, are very scarce, as well as cattle. I have 
 liardly seen so many 'as a dozen since I left Athens, 
 where a great number are at large, and are no slight 
 
)' 
 
 186 Halt at NooN’DAY. 
 
 nuisance. The feathered race are much more abun- 
 dant than quadrupeds. Chickens are to be had every- 
 where at low prices. Turkeys and geese, though less 
 abundant, are often seen. I have seldom seen such 
 flights of wild fowl. Wild ducks, wild geese, and 
 pigeons we have seen almost every day in immense 
 numbers. Flocks of crows follow the ploughman in 
 every field, and devour the wheat which his imper- 
 fect ploughing has left uncovered. These mischiev- 
 ous birds are amazingly bold, and the confidence with 
 which they approach the laborers in the field, is a 
 proof that not much pains is taken to destroy them. 
 They must be very destructive in parts of the country 
 so much cultivated in grain as this is. I was told that 
 the peasants do not shoot them, though no game-laws 
 exist to prevent it, with the exception of a tax of three 
 drachmas per acre for the privilege of hunting. 
 
 W e stopped to rest and prepare dinner at about one- 
 half the distance from Thebes to Oropo. To save time, 
 Demetrius rode on before with orders to make ready 
 against our arrival. We found him, however, just be- 
 ginning to make a fire of fagots, and learned from 
 him that he had found much difficulty in obtaining a 
 place for these indispensable rites. He had applied to 
 several persons without success, and at last was reluc- 
 tantly received into a house with but one room and 
 one door, occupied at the same time as a stable and a 
 liuman dwelling-place. The first object that met my 
 eye as I entered the door, was the oxen standing in 
 the stall immediately before me. A small part of the 
 room, from ten to twelve feet square, was appropriated 
 
Dining in Public. 
 
 187 
 
 to the family, and could be reached only by walking 
 in the rear of the cattle. Here Demetrius was making 
 a fire of fagots for the furtherance of his culinary de- 
 signs, in the middle of the room, upon the bare ground, 
 which was at once the only floor and the only fire- 
 place. Mrs. had spread her bed upon a pile of 
 
 fagots in the yard, for the purpose of taking some re- 
 pose. I had found an old bee-hive, of which I made a 
 seat also in the open air, as being the more comfort- 
 able quarters. We were waiting for the fruit of De- 
 metrius’ efforts, when we received a visit from the 
 chief magistrate of the village, who approached us 
 with the usual salutation, ora liaHusin^ and invited us 
 to go and occupy a fine room in his house. 
 
 W e directed Demetrius to interpret to him our lively 
 gratitude for his proffered hospitality, and our pressing 
 haste as the reason Avhy we declined the honor of being 
 entertained by so respectable a personage. Demetrius 
 performed the duty assigned to him in a most surly 
 manner, evidently to the displeasure of the funetion- 
 ary, and then turned away in evident anger. Upon 
 inquiry we learned that according to the custom in 
 villages where there is no public house, he had at first 
 applied to the hospitable Demarch, informing him that 
 two gentlemen and a lady, Franks, wished for shelter 
 for an hour. He was rudely answered by the De- 
 march, who refused to reeeive us into his house. He 
 had waited, it seems, until he knew it would be impos- 
 sible for us to comply with his invitation, and then 
 came with proffers of kindness, fearing, probably, that 
 we should make complaint against him for refusing 
 
188 Mountain Scenery. 
 
 what, according to usage, was our right. He urged 
 his suit vehemently and ulmost angrily. He begged 
 us to stay two or three days without charge, but hav- 
 ing discovered his insincerity and villany, we paid little 
 further respect to this servant of the - crown, but were 
 rather willing to allow him to discover our contempt. 
 
 He was evidently annoyed at the coolness with 
 which we treated his overtures, though he continued 
 to hover about till we were ready to leave. A military 
 dignitary honored us with his company, having his 
 pistols in his girdle. Indeed, no inconsiderable part 
 of the population of this humble village were assem- 
 bled before we had finished our humble repast, and 
 gazed upon us and all our operations with a ^taring 
 curiosity, which showed that such visitors were not 
 often seen amongst them. 
 
 Our road to Oropo soon brought us near to the long 
 sound of Negropont, and we had a beautiful view of 
 an extensive range of the coast of that island. The 
 city of that name, and another small town which our 
 servant called Newtown — a translation, no doubt, of the 
 Greek -w'ords having this meaning, made for the double 
 purpose of making the matter comprehensible to us, and 
 making known his own knowledge of English, were 
 visible upon the opposite shore, and had a very pretty 
 appearance. Some half a dozen of the small craft of 
 the country were sailing toward these small ports, in- 
 dicating, no doubt, pretty correctly, their commercial 
 importance. After a narrow strip of flat land along 
 the beach, lofty mountains arise as far as the eye can 
 reach either way from one j)oint of view. Far beyond 
 
Transparent Atmosphere. 189 
 
 these appeared others still more lofty and covered with 
 snow. 
 
 One of these, of a conical figure, and apparently the 
 highest in the island, had been visible for the greater 
 part of our journey from Delphos. It had attracted 
 our attention and remark by its peculiar and resplen- 
 dent whiteness. I know not if imagination had not 
 much to do with the impression, but it seems to me 
 that the snow-capped mountains of this country have 
 a lustre, a dazzling brightness which I have nowhere 
 else observed. I made this remark when, from a dis- 
 tant part of the Morea, I saw the white tops of Parnas- 
 sus and Helicon. The impression was strengthened at 
 all the various points of view which, in a tortuous 
 route by land and water, in valleys and over high 
 mountains, I successively occupied. I am sure that 
 the atmosphere of Greece has a transparency that does 
 not belong to the northern climates of Europe. I think 
 that, in this respect, it surpasses Italy. Distant objects 
 are brought nearer, and I have several times been sedu- 
 ced into a fatiguing walk or ride to see objects which 
 proved to be greatly more remote than to my eye, 
 trained to estimate distances in a less transparent at- 
 mosphere, they had seemed to be. The same remark 
 I had frequent occasion to make in Italy, which, how- 
 ever, I think is inferior to Greece in this respect. 
 
 Our path was along the beach for two hours or more, 
 and, for a great part of the distance, in the water, with 
 a bold high shore rising far above our heads. It was 
 refreshing to breathe the pure sea air, and look upon 
 its clear blue waters, and I could not but be struck 
 
190 
 
 0 R O P O. 
 
 with the contrast between nature and the improve- 
 ments of civilization, such as we had recently seen 
 them. My meditations, it is true, did not tend to a 
 very profound philosophy. I was chiefly struck with 
 the reflection that God’s works are all clean — the sea — 
 the blue sky — the green fields and the bare mountains 
 upon which my eyes had so often wandered of late — 
 all are clean^ and I could not but regard the prevailing 
 and disgusting filthiness that fills the habitations and 
 dishonors the persons of the people with whom I had 
 of late become familiar, as proofs of depravity as well 
 as barbarism. Surely cleanliness has strong claims to 
 a place amongst the virtues. Is it not always found 
 where eminent moral purity exists ? Does not the op- 
 posite vice tend to corrupt by degrading the mind? 
 Let them smile upon these speculations as trivial, who 
 have never travelled through Greece and spent twelve 
 nights in a khan. 
 
 We slept this night at Oropo, an estate belonging to 
 the Eussian consul in Athens. It is an extensive and 
 rich tract of land, which he purchased at a very reduced 
 price of the Turks, when, at the close of the war, these 
 fallen tyrants expected to be expelled from Greece, 
 and were fain to obtain for their possessions even a 
 part of 'their value. The house where we took lodg- 
 ings is occupied by his agent, and is of a very superior 
 order to the inns to which we had lately been accus- 
 tomed. We had a tolerably clean plank to sleep upon. 
 At first we were told that the rooms designed for trav- 
 ellers were all occupied, and that we could not have a 
 place. We were indebted to my honorary title for the 
 
Advantage of a Title. 
 
 191 
 
 comfortable shelter to which we were finally admitted. 
 The occupant of the house was ill, and after refusing 
 us a place, asked Demetrius if either of the gentlemen 
 was a doctor. Yes, was the reply. Demetrius, it 
 seems, had all along taken me to be a jDhysician. 
 They then agreed that we should occupy a jDrivate 
 apartment, reserved, I presume, from its superior 
 style, for the use of the owner when he visits his estate. 
 
 I had hardly entered and congratulated my friends 
 upon the unwonted comfort we were allowed to enjoy, 
 when I received an invitation to visit the sick man 
 and make a prescription. 1 assured Demetrius, and 
 through him the sufferer, that I was no physician, and 
 explained, as well as -I could, how it sometimes may 
 happen that a doctor is not a physician. The sick 
 man was sadly disappointed, and even angry. He ac- 
 cused Demetrius of telling a lie to obtain lodgings. 
 Against this charge, Demetrius indignantly protested, 
 solemnly declaring, I doubt not, with perfect sincerity, 
 that he had, up to that moment, believed me to be a 
 doctor of physic. I am far from undervaluing the lit- 
 erary title which I wish I was more worthy to possess, 
 but I do not remember that I have before derived from 
 it any advantage so undoubted and satisfactory. 
 
 We met with Prof. Moore, of Hew York, at this 
 place. We had made the voyage from Trieste to 
 Athens in his company. He had just set out to visit 
 the interesting places embraced in our tour, but had 
 adopted a reverse order, beginning where we hope 
 soon to end the excursion. He was three days from 
 Athens, having been misled by his guide. 
 
CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 MARATHON. 
 
 December 15th. From Oropo to Marathon is a dis- 
 tance, according to our guide, of eight or nine hours. 
 We made it in a little more than six, moving only in a 
 quick walk. We stopped at a village about half way 
 to prepare some refreshment, and, with the exception 
 that the Demarch did not disturb us with his civility, 
 had a fair repetition of the scene of yesterday. • Our 
 inn was again but a single room, used both for a parlor 
 and a stable. Our horses entered by the same door 
 with us, into the same apartment. This is the usual 
 arrangement in Greece. The news of arrival again 
 assembled the villagers, who only ceased from gazing 
 at us intensely when we had mounted the horses and 
 left the place. 
 
 These people remind me* more and more every day 
 of the Xorth American Indian. In complexion they 
 are lighter, but not unlike him. They have the same 
 vaulting walk, the same erect and daring attitude. 
 Perhaps the strongest part of the likeness is in dress. 
 The moccasin of raw hide, made by perforating the 
 edge with holes, and lacing it over the top of the foot 
 
Dress. 
 
 193 
 
 with strings, is decidedly Indian. So is the coarse-stuff 
 legging, fitting the ankle and calf of the leg closely, 
 and tied below the knee. The tunic, too, is only a 
 white shaggy blanket, hanging down not quite to the 
 knee, with holes for the arms, and sometimes with 
 sleeves. The Greek as well 'as the Indian wears a 
 large knife stuck into his girdle, with the handle osten- 
 tatiously exposed. Their habitations are as similar as 
 the difierence of climate and building materials will 
 permit. I speak here of the peasants of the interior. 
 The dress of the females is a little different. They are 
 barefooted. Their under-garment reaches to the ankles, 
 and is usually ornamented with a gay border. Over 
 this is worn a tunic like that of the man, reaching 
 about to the knee, then a sleeved-jacket, reaching only 
 to the waist. This and the tunic are often ornamented 
 with needle-work, mostly red, in front, at the bottom, 
 and down the middle of the back. A kind of 
 sack is often thrown across the neck before, hanging 
 to the waist behind, laden with a bunch of often very 
 large beads, and little metal plates of the size of the 
 smallest coin, worn, I suppose, for ornament, and as an 
 aid to devotion. The men usually wear the Greek cap, 
 which is always scarlet, high and cylindrical, sur- 
 mounted with a tassel of blue, hanging from the centre 
 of the crown. As a substitute for this, I have often 
 noticed a common cotton shawl or large handkerchief ' 
 wound about the head, not unlike the turban. The fe- 
 male peasantry often cover the head in much the same 
 way. In the larger towns there is some variety in 
 their head-dress, and many of them wear a red or. 
 
 y 
 
194 Plain of M a h a t n o n, 
 
 yellow shoe, sharp at the toe, and of bungling work-' 
 manship. 
 
 The country between Oropp and Marathon is varie- 
 gated, but chiefly mountainous and barren. The road 
 must be called good here, but still it is only a path^ 
 and so j^recipitous, narrow, and obstructed by loose 
 stones, or sharp shelving rocks, that in America I 
 should without hesitation have pronounced it quite 
 impassable, and should have thought the rash man 
 who attempted to ride over it was doomed. Here, such 
 is the effect of a fortnight’s training, and such confi- 
 dence in the ill-looking little horse of Greece, that I 
 threw the rope carelessly upon his neck, to ride down 
 or up the mountain, or hang upon its precipitous sides 
 without any concern. 
 
 Before entering our hotel in Marathon, we rode over 
 the celebrated field of battle between the Athenians 
 and the Persians. It answers well to the description 
 given of it by historians; only the plain is much 
 more extensive than I had been led to expect to see it. 
 I was a full hour in riding across it. It is almost a 
 perfect level, though it seems to be sufficiently dry^ 
 The river Marathon, upon which the left flank of the 
 Athenians rested for protection against the Persian 
 cavalry, is now perfectly dry. Nor is there any marsh 
 to answer to those mentioned by the historians. Many 
 such changes have occurred in Greece, and one every 
 day crosses the dry channels stated by the ancient 
 writers to have been rivers in their age. The plain is 
 bounded by the sea on one side, and by a semi-circle 
 of mountains on all the others. 
 
The Battle Field. 
 
 195 
 
 The immense army of the Persians was, according to 
 the historians, drawn up across the plain in a line par- 
 allel to the sea and facing the mountains ; the Athe- 
 nians at the base of the mountain, were protected on 
 either flank against the overwhelming numbers of their 
 enemy by water or marsh. If the river was then flow- 
 ing, as no doubt it was, it justifies the account, as far 
 as the left wing was concerned. Perhaps, too, there 
 was a marsh upon the right, though now it is a dry 
 corn-field. The surface, however, is depressed in that 
 part of the plain, and the changes in climate or other 
 causes which have certainly dried up the river, would 
 most likely exhale the moisture of the marsh. I have 
 seen it objected to the received accounts of this battle, 
 that there is not room for the evolutions of such 
 armies. 
 
 I felt at first sight of this noble area that this objec- 
 tion is groundless. The host of Xerxes might have 
 encamped upon it. An opinion which has gained 
 some currency, transfers the contest from the semi- 
 circle of mountains to the pass between the sea and 
 Mount Pentelicus, which is a mile and a half nearer 
 Athens. This position would have suited the small 
 band of Grrecians admirably, by giving perfect security 
 to their flanks and by contracting their enemy’s front 
 to the length of their own little host. It would have 
 guarded also the most important pass to Attica. This 
 theory, however, seems to me to contradict the ac- 
 counts given by ancient historians. 
 
 There is near the centre of the plain an immense 
 earthen mound, said, but rather improbably, to have 
 
196 
 
 Kude Monuments. 
 
 been raised over tlie slaughtered Persians. It was 
 more probably reared by the victors in honor of their 
 own countrymen. There are also at no great distance 
 the ruins of two ancient edifices, pronounced by his- 
 tory and tradition to be monuments of those who had 
 a part in that great day. 
 
 Many doubts have been raised upon this point, and 
 a popular traveller, whose work I had in my hand 
 whilst surveying these ruins, declares that none exist 
 except some brick foundations in quite another part 
 of the plain. Yet I saw, as everybody may see, mas- 
 sive blocks of Pentelic marble, evidently ancient, and 
 the remains of some great demolished structure. There 
 are two such ruinous heaps not more than fifty yards 
 apart. Doubtless they were rude monuments, reared 
 in honor of the brave, by their grateful country. 
 
 I have been curious in my travels to visit the thea- 
 tres of great battles, not, I trust, from admiration of 
 deeds of blood. The battle field, however, decides the 
 fate of nations — modifies for better or worse the vari- 
 ous forms of human government, and retards or some- 
 times promotes the progress of human happiness. They 
 are often the landmarks of history. They usher in new 
 eras in the affairs of men. It is instructive and in- 
 spiring to stand upon such ground and contemplate 
 the vast results which have sprung from the achieve- 
 ments or disasters of a single day. To my mind, his- 
 tory never speaks so distinctly as when I stand upon 
 the spot where its heroes acted their parts. I make a 
 detour very often to visit the grave or the birth-place 
 of a great man, or the locale of a great event. In the 
 
Plain of Marathon. 
 
 197 
 
 same spirit I made a journey of two days to visit the 
 plain of Marathon. I had from my boyhood looked 
 upon the conflict of which this field was, two thousand 
 three hundred years since, the bloody theatre, as one 
 of the most interesting recorded in history. I had 
 formed in my imagination a picture of Marathon — of 
 its semi-circle of mountains, from which the brave 
 Greeks rushed upon their foes — and of the sea upon 
 which the discomfited Persians found a refuge after 
 they had crimsoned its shores with their blood. 
 
 The sight of this plain verifies the historical narra- 
 tive in a most satisfactory manner. So just had been 
 my impressions, that P found myself looking upon the 
 whole scene as one with which I had formerly been 
 familiar. My impressions were erroneous in one re- 
 spect only. I found everything on a much larger scale 
 than I had imagined. This was precisely the reverse 
 of what I have felt with regard to other places which 
 I have seen in Greece. My imagination had expanded 
 the cities and states of this classic and heroic land into 
 dimensions, suited in some degree to the illustrious 
 achievements of which they have been the theatres as 
 well as the actors ; and it has often cost me an efibrt to 
 maintain undiminished my admiration for gallant re- 
 publics and kingdoms, through whose entire temtories 
 my horse could walk in two hours. 
 
 I had no such difficulty at Marathon. The height 
 and grandeur of the mountains, and the great extent 
 of the plain, far surpassed my conception of them, and 
 tended greatly to enhance my ideas of the splendid 
 heroism and immense results of this most important of 
 
198 
 
 Battle of Marathon. 
 
 battles. When we look at this action as a brilliant 
 display of courage and skill — when we admire the 
 handful of intrepid men who braved and overwhelmed 
 the mighty host of enemies who came to take away 
 their liberty, we have taken only a narrow and un- 
 philosophical view of the subject. We must consider 
 that Greece at that time contained the learning, the 
 liberty, and the civilization of the whole world. The 
 Persian invasion was an assault of barbarism upon 
 civilization. The battle of Marathon was a conflict 
 between light and darkness. Had the Persian host 
 prevailed, who can estimate the influence upon the 
 future destinies of the race ? Greece would have be- 
 come a province of this immense despotism. Her 
 shining galaxy of free and independent republics, — ^in- 
 considerable certainly in wealth and extent, but on 
 that very account more favorable to liberty, to the 
 growth of manly principles and high sentiments — to 
 the elaborations of just political sentiments — to the im- 
 provement of the individual and of the social condition 
 of man — would have been extinguished. 
 
 Even in Greece, civilization was not yet fully de- 
 veloped. She was not yet prepared to be the teacher 
 of nations. Her literature and her arts were in com- 
 parative infancy. Phidias and Praxitiles were unborn. 
 Thucydides and Xenophon had not written. Aristotle 
 and Plato had not taught mankind. Greece was as yet 
 but a nursery full of the germinating seeds of knowl- 
 edge and improvement. But she had not yet com- 
 menced her mission as the teacher of the nations. Had 
 Persia prevailed at Marathon, this mission would never 
 
Its Mighty Consequences. 199 
 
 have been accomplished. Providence might have ac- 
 complished the work by other means, but for aught 
 that appears, ages upon ages of ignorance and barba- 
 rism would have been the consequence. Eome, who 
 was proud to acknowledge her obligations to Grreece 
 for the arts and seiences, would only have spread bar- 
 barism with her conquests, and Britain, Gaul, and Ger- 
 many, who received civilization in exchange for their 
 wild independence, might have teemed with naked 
 savages, such as fought against Julius Cassar. Milti- 
 ades and the Athenians fought at Marathon for the 
 civilization of mankind in all future time. Then vic- 
 tory, all but miraculo^s, rolled back the^ desolating 
 tide, and secured not the country only, but the world. 
 
 Marathon was the forerunner of Thermopyla3, Salamis, 
 and Platea, It was easy for Greece to conquer bar- 
 barians after Athens had demonstrated its praetica- 
 bility. The impulse which achieved all these victories 
 was given at Marathon. The devotion of Leonidas and 
 his Spartans was nothing to the feat of Miltiades and 
 liis Athenians. They first established the principle 
 that civilization contains an element of strength, inde- 
 pendent of numerical force. All the glorious events 
 of the first and second invasions by Persia flowed from 
 this great achievement naturally, and almost of course. 
 It inspired the Greeks with confidence in themselves, 
 in discipline, in intelligence, in freedom. From that 
 day liberty and learning and civilization were conse- 
 crated in the general estimation, as not only the glorj^, 
 but also the safe-guard of Greece. 
 
 The progress of society was amazingly accelerated. 
 
200 Battle of Cii^ronea. 
 
 All the arts and sciences, for which we are indebted to 
 the ancients, speedily attained to perfection. In the 
 brief period that elapsed from the Persian to the Pelo- 
 ponnesian war, architecture, sculpture, history and elo- 
 quence, attained an excellence which has never since 
 been equalled. 
 
 Perhaps there is no event in the history of Greece, 
 upon which most men are accustomed to look with 
 more lively regret, than its subjugation to Philip of 
 Macedon. The battle of Chosronea is spoken of as the 
 final destruction of the glory of Greece. In what did 
 that glory consist ? In her free institutions? These 
 were immensely valuable no doubt, as they hastened 
 the development of a higli civilization. It is in this 
 light we are to look upon Greece as the civilizer of the 
 world. Her republics, her freedom, were nothing only 
 as they tended to this great end. More faction and 
 disorder — less of security — did not perhaps exist 
 amongst any people on earth. Yet was it a state of 
 things precisely the most favorable for qualifying 
 Greece to enter upon the mission to which she was 
 destined. Iler civilization, however, was fully devel- 
 oped before the battle of Chseronea. The successful 
 diffusion of this civilization called for a different politi- 
 cal organization. 
 
 The multitude of petty sovereignties, jealous and 
 belligerent ever, was incompatible with this duty. 
 Division and rivalry had nurtured and developed civili- 
 zation. For its dissemination union and subordination 
 were requisite. These the battle of ChoBronea produced. 
 It subordinated the jarring and heterogeneous elements 
 
Meditations at Marathon. 201 
 
 to one controlling influence. It prepared tlie way for 
 combined and efficient action. It enabled Alexander, 
 at the head of the Greeian race, to subvert the great 
 barbarian power in Asia, and establish in its stead 
 Grecian rule, and with it science and civilization. In 
 this view, which is the only broad philosophical one, 
 the battles of Marathon and Chaeronea were but sepa- 
 rate triumphs of the same principle. They tended alike 
 to fulfil the mission to which Greece was destined by 
 Divine Providence — the civilization of the world. 
 
 The establishment of the power and diffusion of the 
 letters of Greece over so large a part of the earth, be- 
 came a most important means for the spread of the gos- 
 pel of Christ. All who have taken large views of the 
 subject have seen the hand of Providence visibly dis- 
 played in preparing the way of the Messiah, in the gen- 
 eral diffusion of the arts, the philosophy, and, above 
 all, of the language of the most civilized people in the 
 world. The Greek had become the universal language. 
 All men who read, or reasoned, or wrote, employed it as 
 the vehicle of thought. When the apostles, therefore, 
 spoke or wrote the precepts of the new religion, they, 
 of course, adopted it ; and by this means had the world 
 for their audience. Doubtless, God could and might 
 have found other means for the diffusion of Ilis word. 
 Still, He chose to employ this widely-diffused language 
 in giving to all nations a knowledge of His saving 
 truth, and, we are compelled to believe, prepared the 
 way for it by directing the events which had made the 
 language of Greece universal. The fate of the language 
 was suspended on the field of Marathon. Had a dif- 
 
 9 * 
 
202 'Meditations at Marathon. 
 
 ferent result followed tlie confliet upon tliat renowned 
 plain, the language, the civilization and the power of 
 Greeee would have been obscured together. 
 
 In such meditations I indulged on the field of Mara- 
 thon. And thus it was that Miltiades and his gallant 
 host stood up before me as the champions of civilization 
 and moral light — as fighting not for Athens, but for 
 mankind. And thus their memory, their cause, and 
 the field where they triumphed, were hallowed. I ad- 
 mired the Divine wisdom that prepared afar off, and 
 in days of old, for the diffusion of light and life. It 
 was the eve of the Sabbath, and I trust I was led by 
 the scene before me into a train of reflections not un- 
 suited to the holy season. 
 
C| f (i rl it t ir Porn. 
 
 V 
 

Snrc7\h(iicn‘ 
 
 1 
 
 I 
 
 
CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 My first general view of Constantinople was from 
 Mount Bourgaloue, to whose summit, shaded by low 
 spreading pines, Turks as well as strangers frequently 
 resort, for the extensive view it commands of the city 
 and its environs. The undulating surface of this beau- 
 tiful city appears to the spectator from this point like 
 a level, so that its principal charm is lost by the too 
 great elevation. Everything, however, is distinctly 
 seen. The seraglio has the appearance of a forest or- 
 namented with summer-houses. The noble line of 
 mosques, that occupy the ridge of the promontory be- 
 tween the Marmora and the Golden Horn, is better 
 seen than from any other point of view. I counted 
 ten of these immense structures, which tower above 
 the city, as well as the hundreds of other mosques in- 
 ferior to them in their dimensions or position. Hot 
 less than eight barracks for the army are seen, chiefly 
 in the outskirts of the town, — all extensive, magnifi- 
 cent estabhshments, occupying commanding sites. 
 
 Small clumps of cypresses in different parts of the 
 town, and large forests in the suburbs, mark the sites 
 
206 
 
 Extensive View. 
 
 of the cities of the dead, which occupy more ground 
 than the habitations of the living. A multitude of 
 ships in the harbor, between Constantinople and Pera, 
 as well as in the Bosphorus, seemed to form a connec- 
 tion amongst the disjointed members of the great city. 
 The view of the winding Bosphorus, and of the towns, 
 palaces, and villages which line the European shore, 
 as well as the gardens that cover the slopes of the hills, 
 is truly magnificent. It extends above Buyuk-dere to 
 the distance of seventeen or eighteen miles. The eye 
 ranges over a vast region in the interior, composed of 
 hills and valleys, little cultivated, which appear to be 
 an immense plain, bounded by the horizon. In the 
 direction of the Black Sea, the forest of Belgrade 
 covers a large tract. 
 
 South of Constantinople are seen the edifices and 
 villages that cover the shore of Marmora with little in- 
 termission to St. Stephano. The Marmora • stretches 
 south beyond the reach of vision, which extends to a 
 large island in its bosom. Thence the view is bound- 
 ed by a range of mountains that rise beyond the gulf. 
 Near the head of the gulf, and at the distance of a hun- 
 dred miles, the snowy tops of Olympus glitter in the 
 sunbeams and dazzle the eye by their brightness. 
 
 Withdrawing our attention from this distant and 
 glorious object. Prince’s islands, six in number, rise 
 from the Marmora five or six miles distant. Scutari 
 is scarcely visible, as its aspect is west, but on the 
 shore, a mile below, is the ancient site of Chalcedon, 
 now a mean village, but beautified with many trees. An 
 immense forest of cypresses, shading Mussulman tombs. 
 
Mount Bourgaloue. 207 
 
 extends from near this village east for several miles. 
 Between this and the Marmora a part of the Sultan’s 
 army lay encamped, their green tents and floating ban- 
 ners presenting a fine appearance. 
 
 Looking east, with the back towards the city, the 
 eye commands a noble view of the region stretching 
 from the sea of Marmora — ^the bay of Nicomedia, as 
 the arm of it is called— to the Bosphorus and Euxine. 
 It is the ancient Bithynia — a region of hills and val- 
 leys, bounded by very distant mountains, which seem 
 to encompass it in the form of a semi-circle. Farms 
 and clumps of trees are seen at intervals, but the love- 
 ly region is mostly waste. 
 
 As we descended, we met several Turks going up 
 with their pipes. Servants carried carpets, mats, and 
 other appliances, to make their stay agreeable. Their 
 horses, finely caparisoned, waited at a distance. Still 
 nearer the village, which occupies the base of the 
 mountain, we passed a company of Turkish women 
 veiled, eating sweatmeats. They made the ascent in 
 vehicles drawn by oxen, and furnished with cushions 
 ornamented with tassels, instead of seats, to enjoy the 
 shade in the hottest part of the day. We were an 
 hour and a half descending the mountain. We saw 
 on our way an Armenian cemetery, cultivated like a 
 garden, with tombs similar to those of Europeans, and 
 the kiosk where Mahmoud, the late Sultan, died. In 
 recrossing the Bosphorus, we passed near a small cir- 
 cular structure, built on a rock that rises in the sea. 
 Many traditions are afloat about its origin and design. 
 It is the point to which chains were fastened, one of 
 
208 Tomb of Sultan Ahmed. 
 
 which extended to the Asiatic and the other to the 
 European shore, to guard the entrance of the Bos- 
 phorus. Formerly some guns were mounted here. It 
 is now, it is said, used as a 'lighthouse, though it had 
 none of the usual appearances of one. 
 
 I passed from Galata to Stamboul with Mr. Hamlin, 
 at 4 P.M. The city wall is at some distance from the 
 water, the space between being built up. The custom- 
 house, where we landed, is a handsome, solid building, 
 with large ware-houses annexed. Soon after passing 
 the gate, we came to the tomb of Sultan Ahmed. It 
 is a beautiful structure of white marble, with rounded 
 corners and a dome. It has a fountain and court full 
 of trees, and is itself a place for prayer, being carpeted 
 and matted. The Sultan’s tomb is in the centre, under 
 the dome. It is so concealed by the coverings of rich 
 shawls, that its model cannot be seen. It is of beauti- 
 ful marble, eight or ten feet long, eight high, and six 
 wide, with a turbaned head upon its higher end. It is 
 enclosed by a light railing, adorned with mother of 
 pearl mosaic. Above it is suspended a splendid chan- 
 delier. 
 
 A number of smaller tombs of similar form, erected 
 probably in remembrance of other members of his 
 family, fill the edifice. All are covered with rich 
 shawls, and the whole has a splendid appearance. 
 Some men were engaged in prayer, which they left to 
 drive us from the door. We proceeded to the wall 
 which separates the Seraglio from the town, and fol- 
 lowed its course to St. Sophia, a distance of perhaps 
 half a mile. It is ancient, of stone intermingled with 
 
Ancient Hippodrome. 209 
 
 bricks, surmounted with turrets, and strengthened 
 with square towers. Opposite to a gate on the west 
 side of the Seraglio is the gate which leads to the Grand 
 Yizier’s palace, separated from the Seraglio by a street. 
 The palace was burnt some time since. The site is 
 very large. There were no signs of re-building, but I 
 observed two large granite columns on the spot. Be- 
 tween the entrance of the Seraglio and St. Sophia is a 
 large fountain of marble, gorgeously decorated with 
 gold. By means of a small bucksheesh we passed into 
 three courts of the Seraglio. We walked into St. 
 Sophia also ; and, despite the wonder and the hostile 
 demonstrations of a group of Mohammedan boys, 
 seated near the entrance with their school-master, I 
 advanced into the interior, and was enabled, in the 
 brief time allowed me by their indecision, to obtain a 
 good view of this venerable and imposing edifice. The 
 boys, however, followed me, and joined as they were 
 by some men, they soon disregarded the air of stern 
 authority I assumed ; and throwing stones at me, and 
 manifesting by unequivocal signs their anger at the in- 
 trusion of a Frank into their holy place, they obliged 
 me to make good my retreat, which I happily did 
 •without receiving any injury. 
 
 A little south of this mosque is that of Sultan Ach- 
 met. We looked at the noble courts and gallery, but 
 declined the invitation to enter for a bucksheesh. Im- 
 mediately west is the Atmeidan, or horse course — the 
 ancient Hippodrome — a quadrangle of three hundred 
 yards long, by a hundred and fifty wide. It was former- 
 ly much more extensive. There are some interesting 
 
210 Obelisk — Spikal Pillar. 
 
 antiquities: an obelisk from Thebes, the pedestal of white 
 marble, under wliieh are blocks of red granite. It con- 
 tains bas reliefs, a good deal damaged. One represents 
 machinery by which the obelisk Avas raised — men pull- 
 ing at ropes, &c., in the presence of the emperor and 
 suite. Another side has a continuation of the same 
 subject, and below a Latin inscription, signifying that 
 Theodosius reared in a short time this pillar, Avhich 
 had proved too difficult a Avork for his predecessors. 
 The third side represents chariot races, Avhich probably 
 took place on the occasion. The fourth has the in- 
 scription in Greek. The obelisk, Avhich may be fifty 
 feet in height, rests on four brass pillars standing upon 
 the pedestal, from Avhich it is elevated about one foot. 
 It is in good preservation. The hieroglyphics have 
 not suffered perceptibly from time, their angles being 
 still sharp and perfect. On the north it is discolored, 
 and covered partially Avith short moss, — a fact that 
 points to the quarter Avhence the cold rains approach. 
 
 A fcAV yards south of the obelisk is the celebrated 
 spiral pillar Avhich once supported a pillar at Delphos. 
 It is of brass, formed of three huge serpents tAvisted 
 together, growing smaller toAvards the top, from Avhich 
 the heads of the serpents are broken. It may be fifteen 
 feet high, and it is much battered, and filled Avith 
 stones. One hole is said to have been made by a can- 
 non shot in the Avar Avith the Janissaries, under the 
 late Sultan. The diameter is from tAvelve to fifteen 
 inches. 
 
 A little farther south, and in a line Avith the tAvo ob- 
 jects just described, is the lofty square column of Con- 
 
Cistern of B in-b i r-d e r e k. 211 
 
 stantine Porpliyrogenitus, built of blocks of marble, 
 and covered originally with plates of metal, as is mani- 
 fest from tbe boles of the nails wbicb ap]3ear in tlic 
 stones. The marbles are loose, and threaten to fall. 
 The Atmeidan is stiU used for equestrian fetes. 
 
 At the distance of less than half a mile, on the 
 Adrianople street, is the burnt column, an immense 
 pillar, nearly a hundred feet high, which has its name 
 from having been discolored and fractured by the fre- 
 quent fires that raged around it. It is so built around 
 as to be unapproachable, but, as seen from the street, 
 it has the appearance of porphyry. The joints of the 
 column are or were concealed by metal hoops, much 
 out of place. Wreaths wrought in the stone also en- 
 compass it at certain distances. A statue of Apollo 
 once surmounted it. A Greek inscription is seen near 
 the top, which I was enabled to decipher.'^ 
 
 A few rods south of the Adrianople street is a curi- 
 ous ancient cistern, now partially dilapidated and a 
 good deal filled up. It was once used in supplying the 
 city with water, which it probably received from the 
 aqueduct of Valens. It is an immense reservoir, 
 formed of thick solid walls, and covered with a roof of 
 many arehes, supported by a vast number of columns. 
 
 It was too dark to count them, but the number is 
 stated at 424. It is from this colonnade that it derives 
 the name of Bin-bir-derek, or thousand and one col- 
 umns. It is entered by a door on the south side, which 
 
 * “ By tlie inscription -we learned ‘ that that admirable piece of • 
 workmanship was restored by the most pious emperor, Manuel 
 Commenes.’ Tournefort’s Voyage in the Levant.” 1741. 
 
212 
 
 Ancient Cistern. 
 
 leads to a flight of wooden steps. It has the appear- 
 ance of a mound of earth rising eight or ten feet above 
 the common level. There is a considerable accumula- 
 tion of rubbish on the arched roof. Several holes, 
 broken through the roof by accident or design, admit 
 a feeble light. At noon it is sufficient for the purposes 
 of the tenants of this subterranean abode — a dozen or 
 more wretched, sickly -looking silk spinners, who were 
 engaged in their occupation in the dim twilight, which 
 had already settled upon these vaults at 4 o’clock in 
 the afternoon, though the regions above were enjoying 
 a brilliant sunshine. The ground was damp. We 
 were conducted to a spring, the only water now in this 
 cistern, of which we were urged to drink, and assured 
 that the quality is excellent. 
 
CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 WALLS AND TOWERS. 
 
 June 23, 1840. I set out at about eight this morning 
 from Pera, the Frank quarter of Constantinople, to make 
 an excursion to the Seven Towers. We crossed the 
 Golden Horn upon the long bridge, not less certainly 
 than half a mile long, built of wood, and resting upon 
 floating rafts of timber. It is but little raised above the 
 water, except at two points, where there are arches of 
 considerable elevation to allow boats to pass under 
 them. At the same points are draws, which are raised 
 when a ship of war goes to sea from the navy -yard 
 immediately above, or returns for repairs. Merchant 
 vessels cannot pass above the bridge. Their most 
 crowded resorts are immediately below it, on both sides 
 of the Golden Horn. This bridge is in a sheltered sit- 
 uation, where heavy winds and seas have' little power 
 upon it. It is secured in its position by a multitude 
 of anchors and strong cables attached to its timbers, 
 -at intervals of only a few feet. No tolls are paid by 
 passengers, and the bridge is much used, though 
 above the business parts of Pera, Galata, and Constan- 
 tinople. 
 
214 
 
 Greek Quarter. 
 
 \Yc obtained horses at the south end of the bridge, and 
 entering the city by the nearest gate, proceeded at no 
 great distance from the wall in a western direction. Our 
 route, which we chose at hazard, willing to see as much 
 of the city as possible, lay through the quarters occu- 
 pied by the Jews and Greeks. Ballat, or the J ews’ town, 
 is perhaps the worst part of Constantinople, the streets 
 more uncleanly and confined, and the houses in a more 
 ruinous, neglected condition. Few of them are paint- 
 ed, — all, or nearly so, are built of wood, and the boards 
 hang loose and ready to fall. The windows are broken 
 and not glazed, and the open doors of the lower rooms 
 disclosed scenes of filth and poverty. The shops, of 
 which we passed a great many, are very meanly sup- 
 plied with only the most common provisions and ar- 
 ticles of merchandise. The large dealers and wealthy 
 Jews, of whom there are many here, transact business 
 in other parts of the city. I have been assured that 
 even in these mean, ruinous houses, comfort and even 
 elegance and refinement may often be found. The 
 rapacity and injustice to which these unfortunate peo- 
 ple, even more than others, have long been subjected 
 in this country, have produced habits of caution. Ap- 
 parent wretchedness is adopted as the best safeguard 
 for real affluence and independence. 
 
 The aspect of the Fanar or Greek quarter is decid- 
 edly superior to that of the Jews. The houses are 
 more spacious and in better rejoair. They are favor- 
 ably distinguished from those of the Turks by the ab- 
 sence of lattice-work from the windows. The habits 
 of the Greeks in this respect are more European than 
 
Greek Church. 
 
 215 
 
 Oriental. The women appear in Frank costume, and 
 wear no veils. Indeed, their national characteristics 
 are rapidly disappearing, and the Greeks of Constan- 
 tinople seem likely to become fully Europeanized, even 
 sooner than their brethren in their native land. No 
 Greek, however, any more than a Jew, is allowed to 
 paint his house in gay colors. These belong to the 
 Turk, who alone may employ bright yellow, green, 
 and white. 
 
 We dismounted to enter a Greek church, which is 
 inclosed by a high wall in a large court. - It is a plain 
 but respectable edifice, in good repair, and decorated 
 in the Greek style with many small paintings and en- 
 gravings. The Yirgin Mary has the place of undis- 
 puted pre-eminence in the pictorial part of their relig- 
 ion, no less than among the Catholics. This church, 
 as I learned on a second visit to this part of the city, 
 belongs to the Bishop of the Church of the Holy 
 Sepulchre. 
 
 After leaving the Church, we passed out of the city 
 at the Egri Kapoussi, or oblique gate, which is in the 
 western wall, near the north-western angle, and a short 
 distance only from the Golden Horn. We found our- 
 selves at once in a vast field of graves, filled with Turk- 
 ish monuments and shaded with cypresses. A paved 
 road runs parallel with the wall from this point south 
 to the sea of Marmora. Turning to the left into this 
 highway, the best I have yet seen in Turkey, we soon 
 reached a fountain built against the wall, which seems 
 to be a place of considerable resort. Tlie water de- 
 signed for the use of the neighborhood runs through a 
 
216 
 
 City Walls. 
 
 pipe into a marble reservoir, situated in the usual man- 
 ner on the outside of the building. We passed through 
 a door into a large room, which receives from the aque- 
 duct of Yalens a large quantity of water designed for 
 the supply of this part of the city. It is poured into 
 a large marble basin by a multitude of pipes, through 
 » which it is filtered, and flows off in a copious stream 
 to its destination. The play of the water produces an 
 agreeable coolness in the atmosphere, and a number of 
 cane-chairs or stools are placed upon an elevated part 
 of the marble floor, where the Turks, during the heat 
 of the day, enjoy their favorite luxury of smoking. 
 
 The west wall of Constantinople has an appearance 
 of great antiquity, and was probably built by the Greek 
 emperors. Tiles are mingled without much order in 
 the rough stone masonry of which it is composed. 
 Many parts are in a ruinous condition, though nowhere 
 quite prostrate. These bulwarks might be of some use 
 in resisting an assault, but would be easily demolished 
 by a battery of heavy ordnance. There are two par- 
 allel walls, the interior the highest, distant from each 
 other perhaps twenty or thirty feet. This space is in 
 many places full of rubbish and planted with trees. 
 Both walls are surmounted by small turrets, and along 
 the outer at short intervals are massive towers, square, 
 round, and octagonal, which rise forty or sixty feet in 
 height. Outside of the towers is a fosse, twenty or 
 twenty 'five feet wide, faced with stone. It is in some 
 ])laces twenty feet deep. In others it is quite filled 
 with earth. Tlie soil which has accumulated in the 
 bottom is rich, and a considerable extent is covered 
 
Walls and Towers. 217 
 
 with fine wheat. Another portion is planted witli fig- 
 trees, which also thrive well. A company of gipsies 
 were encamped in this ancient fosse, near the Adrian- 
 ople Gate. Their filthy, black turbans and tattered 
 dress proved their fraternity with the same race in 
 more western regions. Their tents were of coarse black 
 wool, or hair, and not unlike those of the Bedouins, 
 except in form. 
 
 The western walls and towers are among the most 
 interesting objects that invite the attention of a trav- 
 eller visiting Constantinople. Several of the towers 
 have undergone repairs, and some of them seem to 
 have been mostly rebuilt. The larger number, how- 
 ever, as well as the entire wall, are evidently in the 
 state in which they were formed, upon the transfer of 
 imperial power from the Greeks to the Mohammedan 
 dynasty. Vestiges of the violence of war, no less than 
 of the ravages of time, are everywhere apparent — par- 
 tial breaches in the wall — half-demolished towers re- 
 main as they were when Mahomet II. entered the con- 
 quered city. Large trees rise from the very summits 
 of these stately ramparts. The highest towers are so 
 completely covered with running ivy as to conceal the 
 masonry very perfectly, and several of them are rent 
 from top to bottom, gaping wide and threatening to 
 tumble headlong. The venerable, hoary aspect of these 
 ancient bulwarks, their vast extent, the rich variegated 
 verdure, and overhanging waving foliage, which min- 
 gle with shade and half conceal semi-dilapidated mon- 
 uments of bygone ages — form altogether one of the 
 
 10 
 
 \ 
 
218 The Seven Towers. 
 
 most picturesque, historical, and impressive scenes to 
 be found in any part of the world. 
 
 The Gate of Adrianople, which opens into the great- 
 est thoroughfare of the city, seems to have been adorn- 
 ed with colonnades and other ornamental constructions, 
 the fragments of which cover the ground. Cannon 
 Gate, memorable as that through which the Ottoman 
 conqueror entered the town, is upon a high ridge, but 
 is not otherwise remarkable. 
 
 Of the Seven Towers, once celebrated as the prisons 
 ■where foreign ambassadors were sometimes confined 
 by the Porte, only three are now in existence. These 
 have lately been rebuilt — two are round, the other is 
 octagonal. I was told that the largest is used as a 
 powder magazine. The entrance is on the outside of 
 the city, through a court enclosed in a high wall of re- 
 cent construction, and adapted to the new purposes to 
 which the edifices have been devoted. 
 
 ‘This western wall of Constantinople, which extends 
 quite across the peninsula, from the Golden Horn on 
 the north, to the Sea of Marmora on the south, I should 
 conjecture to be not less than five miles in length. The 
 region west of the town swells into gentle hills, but seen 
 from any elevated position, a little distant, has the ap- 
 pearance of a boundless plain. There are a few gar- 
 dens and cultivated fields in sight, but it is mostly a 
 waste, affording, however, in the spring and autumn, 
 pasturage to flocks of sheep. Near the wall, and to 
 distances extending in some places several miles, this 
 is an immense burying ground, crowded with Turkish 
 monuments and ])lantcd with cypresses. In this neigh- 
 
€ E M»E T E R I E S. 
 
 219 
 
 borhood is the Armenian cemetery, which^laeks the 
 appropriate ornament of the dark waving cypress, re- 
 served by custom, and it is said by law, to j^rotcct and 
 beautify the resting-places of the faithful. 
 
 There are five gates in this end of the cit}^, from 
 each of which a broad highway has been cut through 
 this vast necropolis to different parts, of the country. 
 Indeed, so vast a space has been devoted to the dead 
 around Constantinople, that it is no longer possible to 
 respect the sanctity of their abode without interfering 
 greatly with the convenience of the living, and even 
 an entire saerifice of public convenience. Immense as 
 the city is, I am quite sure that much more ground is 
 occupied by tombs and graves than by the habita- 
 tions of the living. The vdiole country about Constan- 
 tinople, Scutari, and Pera, is occupied in this way, and 
 a vast number of tombs and burying-grounds are en 
 closed within the walls. In forming roads, streets, 
 and in building, it is no longer possible to spare them, 
 and one often treads upon causeways or pavements 
 made of sculptured grave-stones and monuments. 
 
I 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 We re-entered tlie city at the Seven Towers, and 
 passed through an Armenian quarter in returning to 
 the bridge, where we must leave our horses. The 
 houses are of wood, mostly unpainted, and in an al- 
 most ruinous condition. Still the occupants are many 
 of them rich, and the slovenly and wretched appear- 
 ance of their habitations must be ascribed to the cause 
 already mentioned — the fear of exciting the envy and 
 provoking the rapacity of their oppressors. This dan- 
 N ger has, I apprehend, nearly passed away, but the ef- 
 fect of former days of cruel oppression, remain in this 
 as in’ a thousand other instances, in the habits and 
 vices of the people. The Armenians impose upon 
 their women a bondage less severe than the Turks. 
 Still their females always appear veiled in public, and 
 the lattice that marks the front windows of many of 
 their houses, demonstrates that a more domestic and 
 private supervision is also maintained. In many of 
 their houses, however, as well as those of the Greeks 
 and ‘Franks, a part of the front projects over the street, 
 forming a sort of recess in the saloon, with side wdn- 
 
Aqueduct of V a lens. 221 
 
 dows, wliicli command a view of all that takes place in 
 the street^ up and down, as far as it follows a straight 
 direction. In this niche the females may be seen seated, 
 gazing eagerly at the passers-by. They sometimes 
 draw the curtains which hang before the side-lights, to 
 screen themselves from the view of the too curious 
 gazer, but usually show no less willingness to be seen 
 than to see. This custom is the natural effect of the 
 restraints imposed upon females, and shows at least that 
 they are not led to adopt the prevailing custom from 
 any lack of curiosity, which is so natural to the sex, 
 and indeed to the species. 
 
 We passed under the 'arches of the aqueduct of Val- 
 ens, which conducts the water for the supply of Con- 
 stantinople, from Belgrade, a distance of twelve miles. 
 It has a ruinous appearance, but still answers the pur- 
 pose of its erection. It is constructed of unhewn stone 
 and mortar. The arches are of brick. It forms a strik- 
 ing object when seen from a distance, running along 
 one of the most elevated ridges in the city. Through 
 a great part of the distance, the water is carried under 
 ground in covered channels of masonry and leaden 
 pipes. The Turks have added a curious appendage to 
 this subterranean portion of the aqueduct. Towers of 
 fifteen or twenty feet in height, are erected at short and 
 regular intervals, with a basin on the summit, into 
 which the water rises by a pipe leading up one side of 
 the tower. It immediately descends from this aerial 
 reservoir by a second pipe on the opposite side, and 
 pursues its hidden way until it is again exalted to an 
 interview with the sun and atmosphere by a similar 
 

 222 Sarcophagus of Theodosia, 
 
 contrivance. It is difficult to conjecture the object, or 
 more probably the mistake in hydraulics which led to 
 the adoption of this novel expedient. 
 
 We passed, on our return, through a part of the city 
 inhabited by Turks, not much visited by Franks, and 
 had some experience of the bigoted hostility towards 
 Christians, which has nearly subsided in Pera and the 
 more frequented parts of Constantinople, but which still 
 exists in full force in some remote parts of the capital, as 
 well as in many provincial towns and villages. I was- 
 saluted by a stone thrawn by a boy, which, however, 
 did not harm me. Several others struck our horses 
 as we passed. They fly with alarm at the least symp- 
 tom of resistance or retaliation, though the persons 
 who happen to be spectators of their rudeness, show 
 no disposition to restrain them. 
 
 After returning with our horses to the point of de- 
 parture near the bridge, and lunching at a neighboring 
 restaurant, not much distinguished for the attraction 
 of cleanliness, nor far advanced in the European im- 
 provements, which are so rapidly transforming every- 
 thing Turkish, we returned again towards the central 
 parts of the city, to examine an ancient sarcophagus, 
 commonly called that of Theodosia. We passed at no- 
 great distance from the wall, a large steam mill, re- 
 cently erected in a very substantial manner, unlike 
 almost all other private buildings in Constantinople. 
 
 We succeeded in finding the sarcophagus after a 
 good deal of difficulty, and threading a multitude of 
 narrow, crooked streets. It stands in a small open 
 space near a Ibuntaiii. It is formed of a solid mass of 
 
Luna/TIc Asylum. 
 
 223 
 
 breccia, nine feet in length, four and a half feet wide, 
 and, including the lid, which is very thick and solid, 
 about six feet in height. The figure of the cross, par- 
 tially defaced by the zeal of the crescent, is yet distin- 
 guishable upon the 'sides and top. A hole has been 
 broken through one of the ends, and it seems to have 
 been used as a reservoir, though at present it holds no 
 water. 
 
 This sarcophagus has not the elaborate finish which 
 might have been expected from its being devoted to 
 the sepulchre of a royal person. Indeed, this circum- 
 stance casts some doubt upon its claims to be regarded 
 as the sarcophagus of Theodosia. Its form and pro- 
 portions, however, are graceful, and it certainly be- 
 longs to an age as early as that of the Greek emperors. 
 
 Two or three fragments of large Syenite columns 
 arc seen at no great distance — a probable indication 
 that some elegant public edifice once existed on the 
 spot. Several large masses of ancient brick- work also 
 are seen in this neighborhood. 
 
 The Lunatic Asylum is distant about a mile and a 
 half, near the mosque Solomynia. We were stopped 
 by the guard at the door, but were allowed to jDass 
 upon the promise of giving a bucksheesh, a term as 
 common in the Turkish as in the Arabic language. 
 It seems to be naturalized in all the languages of the 
 Levant^ Our ears were at once saluted with the clank- 
 ing of chains, and the horrors of the mad-house in 
 Cairo were suddenly recalled to my mind. I ap- 
 proached the grated cells and found them occupied by 
 brown bears, who seemed happy enough in the situa 
 
224 \ Lunatic Asylum. 
 
 tion, but were chained to guard against mischief and 
 escapes. 
 
 After a few minutes spent in examining ‘this menag- 
 erie, we proceeded through another gate guarded like 
 the first, by several soldiers, who also demanded a 
 bucksheesh, into another quadrangular court, where 
 the lunatics arc confined. The building is of a single 
 story, being raised two or three feet above the pave- 
 ment, and fronting on the court. The windows are 
 grated with iron bars, without glass. The doors were 
 open, and there are windows in the rear of the cells 
 corresponding with those in front. The cells are of - 
 course well aired and ventilated. They are also toler- 
 ably clean — remarkably so, considering the little atten- 
 tion usually paid to this subject in the streets and 
 houses of the Turks. Each of the unfortunate inmates 
 had a mat' with a quilt and blanket for coverings. A 
 water pitcher and a drinking cup or bowl, both of 
 coarse red earthenware, were near them. Considerable 
 attention has evidently been paid to their comfort and 
 liealth, and nothing is decidedly revolting to the feel- 
 ings of the visitor, but the enormous, heavy chains 
 with which every one is bound. They are not “less 
 massive than the chains commonly used in America 
 for ploughing and hauling logs. The base links arc 
 fastened around the neck with a padlock ; the whole 
 is twelve or fifteen feet in length, and the end runs 
 through the grates, and is secured in the outside of the 
 wall. One of the patients was almost entirely naked, 
 and seemed wild enough to require strict confinement. 
 
 4’he rest were perfectly quiet, cither silent or chaunt- 
 
Lunatic Asylum. 
 
 225 
 
 ing in low melanclioly strains. They looked pensive 
 and contemplative, and generally kept their eyes fixed 
 upon the floor, or only raised them to take a single 
 glance at the stranger. Several of them were smok- 
 ing, some were dining, and the provision seemed to be 
 plentiful and wholesome. They were respectably clad, 
 and the soldiers, as well as the citizens, who may have 
 been relatives, entered their cells freely, and contem- 
 plated their situation -with evident tenderness and re- 
 spect. They even appeared unusually cheerful — a 
 circumstance which was probably owing to the high 
 veneration in which i(fiots and madmen are held by 
 the Turks, who regard them as the special favorites 
 of Heaven. 
 
 10 * 
 
CHAPTER XXVII. 
 
 COFFEE-nOUSES. — THE SERASKIER’S TOWER. 
 
 We next proceeded to tlie long range of coffee- 
 houses just outside of the vast courts of the Mosque of 
 Solomynia. These coffee-houses are one of the most 
 thronged and favorite resorts of the respectable Turks, 
 who spend many hours of the day in smoking, and 
 sipping their favorite beverage. The buildings are of 
 one story, and consist of a row of small shops or stalls, 
 where the refreshments are kept or j3repared, with a 
 covered gallery running in front. These are shaded 
 with trees, and fitted up with divans and elevated 
 benches two or^ three feet high, covered with carpets 
 or mats, and running close to the street near the outer 
 side of the gallery, where the shade of the trees and 
 the fresh air can be most fully enjoyed. 
 
 Here The Turks may always be seen in large num- 
 bers, sitting cross-legged, their slippers off, and appar- 
 ently buried in listless, thoughtless animal enjoyment. ' 
 They smoke their immensely long, and sometimes in- 
 tricate and highly curious pipes, with the utmost de- 
 liberation. Long pauses follow every puff. The 
 smoke rises slowly, and scarcely discolors the atmos- 
 
Scene in a Coffee-house. 227 
 
 
 phere. One Dutcliman or German raises a thicker 
 and larger cloud of sinoke than a score of Turks. 
 Scarcely a word is heard. A single monosyllable, 
 uttered in a low voice, or even a sigh, informs the ^ 
 watchful publican when the pipe is to be replenished, 
 or a cup of coffee, or a glass of water or sherbet is 
 wanted. You may observe one of these companies of 
 absorbed and scarcely conscious Musselmen for half an 
 hour, without seeing a single face lighted up with a 
 smile, or indeed betraying any emotion. 
 
 The half-closed and inexpressive eye turns slowly 
 towards the approaching stranger, and is probably 
 riveted upon him in his seat, if his foreign dress and 
 air exhibit anything peculiar. On the present occa- 
 sion, after taking a cup of coffee, and resting for a few 
 minutes, I made some notes with my pencil. This is 
 almost the only thing that is capable of exciting the 
 curiosity of these phlegmatic people, and this seldom 
 fails to rouse them from their repose. Several grave, 
 turbaned, serious personages immediately put on their 
 slippers, and came close to me, to witness the process 
 by which I was attempting to record some of the pecu- 
 liarities of their customs and character. They were, of 
 course, not the wiser for the examination, and they 
 soon returned to their luxurious repose. The Turks 
 are not only very curious to examine the writings of 
 strangers, but very vain of exhibiting their own ability 
 to write or to read a manuscript. I have often seen 
 men of great apparent respectability make an ostenta- 
 tious and rather ludicrous display of their accomplish- 
 ments on board steam-boats, and in other public places 
 
228 
 
 Opium Eatees. 
 
 where the presence of strangers afforded a temptation 
 to such an exhibition. . 
 
 This range of coffee-houses was formerly the great 
 ' resort of the opium eaters, of whom so many travellers 
 have given graphic, and, as I suspect, rather poetical de- 
 scriptions. I repeated my visit to this place, in hopes of 
 seeing some remains of this race, but without success ; 
 and was repeatedly assured, in answer to inquiries ad- 
 dressed to many intelligent Franks, as well as natives 
 of the city, that no such persons at present exist. It 
 is said that the freer use of wine and spirits by the 
 Turks has produced this change ; but those who have 
 enjoyed the most favorable opportunities for obtaining 
 accurate information, concur in declaring that the rep- 
 resentations referred to, if not wholly fabulous, are 
 grossly exaggerated ; and I did not converse with a 
 single individual who had ever known an opium eater, 
 though many professed to have been at much pains to 
 obtain correct information on this point. 
 
 The coffee-houses are the great places of congrega- 
 tion in Constantinople. They are instead of hotels, 
 theatres, news-rooms, and all other places of amuse- 
 ment. The number of these establishments is im- 
 mense, and they seem always to be well patronized. 
 Many of them are fitted up with much elegance, or 
 rather with much gorgeousness — marble fountains, 
 gilded canopies, splendid carpets, are common decora- 
 tions. The coffee is served in a very small gilded 
 porcelain cup, holding not more than a common wine- 
 glass. It is usually very strong, and thick with the 
 grounds, which are always found in the bottom of the 
 
The Sera skier’s Tower. 229 
 
 cup. The Turks used to drink it without sugar, as the 
 common people do now ; but the wealthier begin to 
 prefer this Frank innovation. Milk and cream are not 
 used. A cup of coffee with sugar costs hardly more 
 than one cent. There is indeed no place where such 
 abundance of agreeable refreshments may be had at so 
 low a price. Various preparations, — curds, ice-creams, 
 &c., — are sold at every corner of the street, and hawked 
 through the market places, not only at excessively low 
 prices, but of very good quality. 
 
 One of the best views of Constantinople and its en- 
 virons is obtained from the Seraskier’s Tower, to which 
 we proceeded from the cafes of the Solomynia. It 
 rises in the centre of a vast enclosure, which embraces 
 the different offices and appendages of the Turkish 
 War Department. The site is one of the most com- 
 manding in the city. Its situation is central, and the 
 tower, standing upon a lofty eminence, is itself nearly 
 160 feet in height. The ascent is by a spiral staircase, 
 consisting of 180 steps, each about ten inches high. 
 Near the summit, the diameter of the tower is enlarg- 
 ed, and forms a spacious circular room with windows 
 on all sides, from which a view may be had in all di- 
 rections. A guard of several soldiers is stationed here, 
 and here coffee and other refreshments are served. 
 
 The chief advantage of this point of view over those 
 afforded by the tower of Galata, and the mountain in 
 the rear of Scutari, consists in its commanding every 
 part of Constantinople. Standing upon the high ridge 
 about equally distant from Marmora and the Golden 
 Horn, the plains which incline from this ridge both 
 
280 The Seeaskier’S Tower. 
 
 north and south are immediately under the eye of the 
 spectator. From Galata half the city is concealed, 
 whilst from Bourgaloue the whole of Scutari is un- 
 seen, and the city, too remote as well as too low, is 
 seen indistinctly. From the Seraskier’s Tower, Pera, 
 Scutari, the harbor and shipping, the Bosphorus as 
 high as Buyuk-dere, with all the natural and artificial 
 beauty that borders its incomparable shores, as well 
 as the Sea of Marmora with its islands, and the vast 
 chains of mountains, including the white tops of Olym- 
 pus, which bounds the view beyond it, are all seen 
 with wonderful distinctness and effect. As to the city 
 itself, the eye readily traces the wall in all its vast com- 
 pass. The position and form of the bazars, palaces, 
 mosques, colleges, and principal khans, are spread out 
 as upon a good map. 
 
 The admirable taste shown by the Turks in choosing 
 the sites for their public edifices, is one of the first 
 things that strike the stranger who visits Constanti- 
 nople, but it can nowhere else be so fully appreciated 
 as from the summit of the Seraskier’s Tower. Every 
 commanding summit either in the city or its precincts, 
 and certainly no other spot on earth can have so many 
 and so splendid, is occupied by a palace, mosque, or oth- 
 er public edifice. Look which way you will, some no- 
 ble structure, magnificent both from its simple propor- 
 tions and lofty position, arrests the eye, and effectually 
 screens all meaner objects, of which there is the great- 
 est abundance, from fixed and minute observation. 
 Common habitations, too, are marked by the trees, 
 which abound in all ]-)arts of the city, and impart to it 
 
Number of Mosques. 231 
 
 a rural and lovely aspect. Only tlie red tile-roofs are 
 visible amongst the overshadowing foliage. 
 
 The graceful white minarets of the inferior mosques, 
 surmounted always with a glittering, golden crescent ; 
 and the magnificent domes and loftier towers of the 
 principal mosques, which crown the hill tops, rise con- 
 spicuous above the vast field of humble edifices, and 
 the verdure which half conceals them. Fifteen of 
 these noble religious structures crown the graceful 
 summits of the peninsula, stretching in a waving line 
 from St. Sophia, close to the seraglio, to the western 
 wall of the city, a distance of five or six miles. Either 
 of these fifteen mosques is decidedly superior to St. 
 Paul’s church in London, in magnificence of propor- 
 tions and position. The beautiful spires of two hun- 
 dred smaller mosques mingle on all sides with the dark 
 foliage of the tall cypresses, and it is said there are at 
 least twice as many more inferior places consecrated to 
 Musselman devotion. 
 
 Most of the buildings belonging to the War Depart- 
 ment are of slight and mean construction. They are 
 small, made of wood, and some of them nearly ruin- 
 ous in appearance. It is surprising that such inflam- 
 mable materials should be used when it is so necessary 
 to guard against fires. On descending from this tower, 
 I observed an immense globular basket, painted red, 
 and suspended by a rope from the top. It is of the 
 size of a small cottage, and is employed, I was told, in 
 giving notice of fires. 
 
 Just outside of the high walls that encornpass the 
 War offices, are long ranges of shops wholly devoted 
 
to the sale of vessels and utensils manufactured of 
 brass. They are almost exclusively of Turkish work- 
 manship, and they exhibit a very creditable state of 
 this branch of the arts. The vast extent of the dis- 
 trict devoted to this single branch of trade is an im- 
 pressive evidence of the great population of the cap- 
 ital. These articles are mostly manufactured in the 
 city. Many of the workshops are seen near the Gold- 
 en Ilorn, below the bridge. 
 
CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 
 THE BAZARS. 
 
 A WALK of a few minutes brought us to the Bazars, 
 a characteristic and very interesting feature of Con- 
 stantinople. They occupy a very large and central 
 region of the city, and form a labyrinth of streets and 
 avenues, which a stranger learns to comprehend only 
 after frequent visits and careful observation. I never 
 attempted to visit them after any particular plan, but 
 wandered from one to another as chance or fancy di- 
 rected. They are formed of long ranges of small 
 shops, and occupy both sides of a narrow street, which 
 is commonly arched above, so as to form one contin- 
 uous arcade. Sometimes a simple awning of mats, or 
 a timber roof, is substituted in the less important ba- 
 zars, for the stone arch. They are lighted by windows 
 in the roof. 
 
 The several shops or stalls which are open in front, 
 for the exhibition of merchandise on sale, are closed 
 at night by light sliding or swinging doors, and the 
 whole bazar is closed at an early hour by gates at 
 each end, which are opened at a fixed and rather late 
 hour in the morning. Each of these bazars is de- 
 
234 
 
 The Bazars. 
 
 voted to some one branch of trade, and is a separate 
 and independent establishment. There is a great 
 number of them, but they mostly occupy one region 
 of the city. Sometimes several of them radiate from 
 a common centre — others branch off as accident or 
 convenience may dictate, forming a vast number of 
 irregular and bewildering ramifications. The display 
 of merchandise is very imposing and brilliant, far sur- 
 passing in variety, abundance, and splendor, anything 
 I have previously seen in the Levant. Indeed, there 
 is nothing equal to it to be seen in London or Paris, 
 where a vast amoxmt of business is transacted with 
 much less display. 
 
 The bazars for the sale of shoes and slippers are 
 among the most splendid. They are more than a 
 quarter of a mile in length, and the slippers, which are 
 of bright red and yellow leather, and many of them 
 richly embroidered with silver and gold, are suspended 
 on either side of the street, so as to form an immense 
 gallery, radiant on all sides with the most dazzling 
 brilliancy. Another splendid range is devoted to the 
 exhibition and sale of embroidered muslins, silk shawls, 
 and other similar wares. Here, too, is a gorgeous 
 spectacle, such as is nowhere else to be seen. A vast 
 amount of these glittering wares are consumed here, 
 and the art of embroidery seems to have attained a 
 high degree of perfection. The fabric upon which so 
 much skill and precious metal are lavished, is com- 
 monly coarse and of a very inferior quality. 
 
 The saddle bazar also exhibits a great profusion of 
 articles of the mast rich and splendid colors, and re 
 
Turk:isii Saddles. 
 
 285 
 
 splendent with gold and silver. Turkish bridles are 
 always highly ornamented. The reins^ instead of sim- 
 ple leather, are often composed of some rich stuff, 
 scarlet, yellow, or green, and every part susceptible of 
 such ornament, is bespangled with gold and hung with 
 gay silken tassels. The seat of the saddle is usually 
 composed of red or blue broadcloth, richly embroi- 
 dered. It is, however, upon the ample housing, or 
 cloth which covers the whole horse, back of the shd- 
 die, and hangs low down the flanks, that the most at- 
 tention is bestowed. It is usually of a gay color, crim- 
 son, olive, blue, &c. Long heavy silk tassels are sus- 
 pended from the corners and along the lower border, 
 and the whole glitters with silver and gold, embroi- 
 dered in bold relief in beautiful and showy figures. 
 
 A Turkish saddle is uncomfortable enough to the 
 rider, but nothing of the kind can be more picturesque 
 and agreeable than the sight of one of their noble, 
 spirited horses, splendidly caparisoned, walking or am- 
 bling along the street, bearing a pacha with his retinue 
 of footmen before and on either side.* 
 
 * Omer Paslia, who had recently entered the service of the Sul- 
 tan, was at that time engaged in active service on the frontiers. 
 Born of a noble Croat family, he commenced his military career in 
 the service of Austria. In consequence of a quarrel with a superior 
 officer, he emigrated to Turkey, and entered the Ottoman army, 
 where his remarkable ability and his services procured him a rapid 
 advancement. For fifteen years he has distinguished himself in all 
 the struggles which the Ottoman empire has had to sustain. The 
 most memorable expeditions Were those of Syria in 1844, and still 
 later those of Georgia and Kurdistan. During the last, he estab- 
 lished everywhere the authority of the Porte, and, as a pledge of 
 the submission of the rebels, led as prisoner their chief, Berderkhan 
 
236 
 
 The Bazars. 
 
 A very rich and splendid bazar is devoted to tbe 
 trade in furs, of which a vast quantity are used in Con- 
 stantinople. This trade appears to be wholly monopo- 
 lized by the Armenians, who are likewise principal 
 consumers of the article. Every one who is able, and 
 nearly all are so, has his winter garments lined through- 
 out with fur. Even in the extremely hot days of June, 
 when I experienced the most oppressive heat in per- 
 ambulating the streets of this great capital, I constantly 
 met with Armenians, and often with Turks, burthened 
 with an ample outer garment of broadcloth — a kind of 
 overcoat, reaching the heels, completely lined with 
 thick fur. 
 
 They wear it, perhaps, to keep out cold, no less than 
 for show, and, moving as they always do, in a slow, 
 measured pace, they feel the inconvenience of such un- 
 reasonable clothing much less than men of a more 
 mercurial and bustling temperament would do. 
 
 There is a bazar for calicoes, and another for silks — 
 for broadcloths — for red caps — for leather — for arms — 
 for hardware — for haberdashery — for old clothes — for 
 carpets — for pipes — for jewellery — indeed for almost 
 every article which enters largely into the trade and 
 consumption of a great capital. The complete separa- 
 tion of the different branches of business, forms a very 
 striking characteristic of all considerable oriental cities. 
 
 Bey, the last representative of the turbulent feudality which had 
 been so rudely assaulted by Mahmoud. Sultan Abdul-Medjid, more 
 merciful than his father, pardoned Berderkhan Bey, and recom- 
 pensed his conqueror, by liaving a medal struck at the close of the 
 campaign, witli which lie decorated his royal person. 
 
The Bazars. 
 
 237 
 
 It is a great convenience to the buyer, to find a collec- 
 tion of all the wares of which he may wish to purchase, 
 in a single locality. It must be , favorable, one would 
 think, to useful rivalry amongst manufacturers, as well 
 as to a wholesome competition amongst sellers, to have 
 their wares brought into a mart so conspicuous and ex- 
 tensive, and subjected to a ready and accurate compar- 
 ison with those of all other dealers in the same line. 
 
 The bazars share with the coffee-houses in being the 
 principal, and almost the only places of common resort 
 in Constantinople. In passing through the streets 
 which conduct to them, you might imagine yourself in 
 the midst of a deserted city. Only here and there a 
 solitary individual is moving slowly towards or from 
 these favorite haunts. Pass the open gate, and the eye 
 ranges over a living mass of human beings, extending 
 the whole length of the street. When the spectator 
 happens to be stationed at one of the radiating 2)oints, 
 from which half a dozen bazars diverge in right 
 lines, the spectacle is grand and imposing. Ever}" 
 avenue is crowded with men and women, clad in the 
 most various, but always the most showy and dazzling 
 costumes. The red caps of the men, the snow-white 
 veils of the women, who appear in the bazars alone in 
 still greater numbers, — ^the flaming robes of cloth, 
 silks, and stuffs, in which the gayest and brightest 
 colors always predominate, — the long beards, — the 
 formal ample tartan, — the red and yellow boot and 
 shppers, — the whole mass not rushing to and fro like 
 the crowd in Chatham street or Broadway, but moving 
 slowly like a funeral pomp, amidst the profuse and 
 
238 
 
 The Turk and the Jew. 
 
 brilliant display of mcrcliandisc wliicli I liave already 
 described, — sucli is the scene offered to the eye of the 
 visitor, during the greater jiart of every day, by the 
 bazars of Constantinople. 
 
 It is instructive to contemplate the calmness and 
 dignity with which the Turkish merchant smokes his 
 long pipe, and surveys a scene so calculated to awaken 
 his hopes and excite his cupidity. lie sits cross-legged 
 upon his carpet, in front of his little stock of goods, 
 ready, if called upon, to rise and wait upon a customer. 
 He does not, however, show the slightest wish to re- 
 ceive your patronage, and really seems to have less 
 interest than anybody else in the busy scene. 
 
 Not so the Jews, who engross the bazars appro- 
 priated to the sale of sewing silk, twist, braid and old 
 clothes. They take down their gayest, most attractive 
 merchandise from the shelf, and wave it before you. 
 They entice you to their stalls by the most earnest 
 gestures. They cry out to you in half a dozen lan- 
 guages, — Turkish, Greek, Italian, French, English, 
 Spanish, of which they are always provided with at 
 least a few words. They smile, entreat, and even pull 
 you gently by the arm. If you persevere in your 
 course, as is always most advisable, some ragged Is- 
 raelite is sure to follow you, and offer you his services 
 as a guide to the bazars or antiquities. He under- 
 stands your language, whatever it may be, and has a 
 perfect acquaintance with all the objects which you can 
 possibly desire to visit. 
 
 The bazars for the sale of rich silks, furs, and jewel- 
 lery, are kept by Armenians, wlio arc also much more 
 
Armenian Bazars. 289 
 
 earnest in quest of customers than Turks, though they 
 arc honorably distinguished from the Jews by their 
 superior dignity and decorum. They arc indeed the 
 chief merchants of Constantinople, and nearly all the 
 principal business passes through their hands. Most 
 of the manufactures too, which require extensive capi- 
 tal, are conducted by them. 
 
 Several of the principal bazars seem to have been 
 built with a view to guard against fires, which are so 
 frequent and destructive here. None of them, how- 
 ever, seemed to me to deserve the name of fire-proof ; 
 and some of the most lamentable instances of the loss 
 of life, as well as property, have occurred in these im- 
 mense passages, which are always filled with the most 
 combustible matter, and have no^ way of entrance or 
 escape but through the gates at the two extremities. 
 These, on some disastrous occasions, having become 
 choked with goods and a crowd hastening to escape 
 a miserable death, multitudes have been consumed by 
 the flames. 
 
CHAPTER XXIX 
 
 FIRES IN CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 June 25. I walked tliis morning to visit the new 
 and splendid Armenian clmrcli in the suburbs of 
 Pera. We called on our way to see a Greek church, 
 which, though not entitled to be called splendid, is 
 substantially built of stone, and is every way of very 
 respectable appearance, and commodious for public 
 worship. It has the usual supply of worthless engrav- 
 ings, and paintings, and tawdry ornaments, which arc 
 always to be’found in churches of this communion. 
 It has afforded me much gratification to find that the 
 Christians in the Turkish dominions, fallen as they are 
 in morals and spirituality, have yet zeal, as well as 
 liberty enough, to build good religious edifices, and to 
 maintain with decency the solemnities of public wor- 
 ship. The Greeks have a large number of churches in 
 Constantinople and its suburbs. They are erected, as 
 in the United States, by voluntary contributions, — a 
 source from which a sufficient revenue is derived for 
 the mainl^enance of the clergy, as well as for founding 
 schools and charitable institutions for the infirm and 
 indigent members of the communion. 
 
T 
 
 The Burnt District. 241 
 
 The Armenian church stands upon the border of 
 what is called the burnt district, a name which it will 
 retain only for a brief j^eriod, till a conflagration shall 
 give some other portion of this great metropolis a claim 
 to this distinction. A large tract, variously stated to 
 have contained from three thousand to six or seven 
 thousand, was devastated during the last year by this 
 appointed scourge of the Turkish capital.* The scenes 
 of confusion and distress occasioned by this disastrous 
 fire were described to me as unexampled. The great 
 frequency of such accidents here has produced a sort of 
 indifference and recklessness in the minds of the people, 
 whilst the actual occurrence of conflagration fills the 
 public mind with a degree of consternation and despair 
 elsewhere unknown on s'uch occasions. 
 
 This is the natural result of the inadequate means 
 employed here for checking the fury of the flames, and 
 from the extreme combustibility of the city, which is 
 little else but an immense tinder-box, ready to give 
 aliment to an ocean of flames at the bidding of a single 
 
 * These fires are resorted to for the same reason that public meet- 
 ings and petitions are got up in England — as an expression of the 
 public discontent. Towards the close of the year 1851, the national 
 feeling against the system of reform broke out openly, and showed, 
 itself even in the capital by the barbarous expedient of incendiary 
 fires. Three hundred of the largest houses in Constantinople were 
 reduced to ashes, and fifteen hundred houses in Scutari fell, includ- 
 ing all the markets, magazines, and mills, and probably the whole 
 town would have followed, had it not been for a violent fall of rain, 
 which quenched the fire. 
 
 On the lYth of June, 1848, a tremendous conflagration desolated 
 Pera, from the Golden Horn nearly to the Bosphorus, and a subse- 
 quent one, a few months later, left Pera a heap of ruins. 
 
 11 
 
242 
 
 Great Fires. 
 
 spark of fire. When a fire is fairly begun, nobody ex- 
 pects to see it suppressed till it has produced extensive 
 ruin, and the firemen often begin to demolish houses, 
 and take other usual precautions, at a great distance 
 from the actual theatre of the conflagration. The peo- 
 ple having no hope of saving their houses, soon aban- 
 don all attempts at it, and limit their efforts to securing 
 their furniture and families. 
 
 The whole mass of the population, bearing the feeble 
 and the aged, and laden with their domestic goods, is 
 rushing from the point of danger, completely blocking 
 up the narrow streets. Here they are met by another 
 multitude with engines and other appurtenances, has- 
 tening from distant places to render assistance. Com- 
 panies of mounted policemen are galloping to the same 
 impassable streets, to guard against thefts and other 
 disorders. They force their way through the dense 
 masses, witb little regard to the safety or aims of the 
 crowd. It unavoidably happens that many lives are 
 lost, and many more persons are seriously injured. 
 
 These occasions are said to afford curious illustra- 
 tions of the little sympathy which exists among the 
 pliihrent religious sects, or, as they are more usually 
 called, the different nations which compose the hetero- 
 geneous population of the Turkish capital. If it is in 
 the Jewish quarter that the desolating element is, 
 Turks and Christians, who have been roused by the 
 alarm, retire quietly to their beds, or shops, leaving 
 them to manage their own aflairs. The Armenians 
 show the same indifference to the misfortunes of the 
 Greeks, and vice versa ; and the Franks of Galata and 
 
Keady to be Burned. 243 
 
 Pera are equallj^ left to their own resources during 
 these frightful visitations. Personal interest, resulting 
 from the ownership of property, or other causes, will 
 of course produce many exceptions to this exhibition 
 of selfishness and bigotry, but such, I am well assur- 
 ed, is the common usage. 
 
 One is able, in riding or walking through Constan- 
 tinople and its populous suburbs, to read the history 
 of their calamities in the fresh or antiquated appear- , 
 ance of the buildings. To be burnt up is the natural 
 and expected end of a Turkish house, and to this re- 
 sult their structure and arrangement are especially 
 adapted. Bents are enormously high, being calculated 
 upon the principle that the average existence of a house 
 is seven or eight years. If by any good fortune it es- 
 capes the flames for a longer period, it is reckoned so 
 much clear gain to the lucky owner. He must, how- 
 ever, be at the expense of making general repairs, as 
 the structure, designed only for so brief an existence, 
 is built in the slightest manner, and soon begins to fall 
 in pieces if spared by the flames much beyond the 
 usual term. 
 
 Hundreds, probably more than a thousand houses, 
 are now in the course of building in the burnt district. 
 Several of these are lofty and spacious, but the mate- 
 rial employed in a half dozen of them would not be 
 more than adequate to the construction of one substan- 
 tial and durable edifice of the same dimensions. The 
 most important and massive portions of the framework 
 are formed of timber scarcely more than four or six 
 inches square, whilst the braces and rafters are either 
 
244 
 
 Frail Constructions. 
 
 of small poles or saplings, or mere narrow strips of 
 inch plank. It is slightly covered with clap-boards, a 
 quarter of an inch in thickness, and two or three feet 
 long, often nailed on without planing. The roofs are 
 of tiles. One is astonished to find that these frail con- 
 structions are not shattered to pieces and blown away 
 by the first strong wind. 
 
 They are, however, crowded together, and shelter 
 each other. The narrow streets give little play to vio- 
 lent winds, and after all one is inclined to modify and 
 apply to these tottering houses the proverb which will 
 secure them against all other misfortunes in virtue of 
 their having been made to be burned. To this ap- 
 pointed destiny, the great mass of the houses of Con- 
 stantinople have a most observable and growing adapt- 
 ation. The thin weather-boards twist and crack in the 
 sun, become ragged and hang loosely upon the walls, 
 and everybody, instead of making repairs, seems pa- 
 tiently waiting for the coup de grace of the predestined 
 conflagration. 
 
CHAPTER XXX. 
 
 ARMENIAN CHURCH AND CEMETERIES. 
 
 The new Armenian church, the immediate object 
 of my morning’s walk, is on the verge of the burnt 
 district, and its ample courts and solid walls afforded 
 a shelter to a multitude* of persons on the occasion of 
 this great disaster, as well as a place of security for 
 their effects. This edifice is situated in the centre of 
 a large enclosure, formed of high walls, which conceal 
 the body of the edifice from the view of those who are 
 without. The entrance into this court is secured by 
 massive gates, and the whole has the appearance of a 
 strong fortress. The church is of ample dimensions, 
 beautiful proportions, and solid architecture, and, to 
 my taste, better adapted in its style and arrangement 
 to the purposes for which a place of Christian worship 
 should be consecrated than any I have seen in the 
 Levant. 
 
 The entire structure is composed of solid marble — 
 the walls are very thick — and the roof consists of an 
 immense arch, which springs from their summit. Mas- 
 sive joists, cased in wood, run across the body of the 
 edifice, to aid the walls in resisting the pressure of the 
 
246 
 
 The Armenian Church. 
 
 vast weiglit wliicli rests upon them. The galleries in 
 Armenian churches are particularly devoted to females, 
 though I have often seen them in the body of the edi- 
 fice. There are .three galleries in this church, rising 
 one above another across the end remotest from the 
 altar. The first is roomy and convenient, but the 
 third can hardly be less than fifty or sixty feet above 
 the pavement ; and as far as hearing is concerned, its 
 occupants might as well be on the top of the house. 
 There are no pews or seats. The Armenians kneel 
 upon the pavement, which is always provided with 
 mats or carpets, and sit in the same place, cross-legged 
 in the Turkish manner. So, at least, I have always 
 seen them accommodated in the churches. . A few pic- 
 tures, of no merit as works of art, are suspended above 
 the altar and on other parts of the walls, and a good 
 supply of lamps, for illuminating the edifice, hang a 
 , few feet above the floor. 
 
 The spacious court around the church, like the in- 
 terior, is paved with large slabs of marble. These, 
 and the entire mass of materials employed in the erec- 
 tion of this fine edifice, are tomb-stones taken from an 
 Armenian cemetery. On many of the large slabs em- 
 ployed in the court the inscriptions still appear, though 
 all the stones have been dressed anew in order to fit 
 them for their present use. A good deal of opposition 
 was made to this desecration, as it was called, of the 
 monuments of the dead. The time, however, has 
 come when the living and teeming population of this 
 Viist metropolis are compelled to encroach upon the 
 countless and interminable cemeteries which environ 
 
Monuments of the Dead. 247 
 
 them on every side, and assert their superior claim to 
 the, occupancy of the surface of the earth. Perhaps 
 nothing better can be done with the antiquated monu- 
 ments that literally cover and encumber the ground 
 adjacent to Constantinople, than to employ them in the 
 erection of churches. It is even possible that the more 
 thoughtful worshippers will derive useful moral les- 
 sons from these “ sermons in stones.” 
 
 Armenian burying-grounds are to be found in all 
 directions around the city. One large and important 
 one, which I visited, is a little north of Pera, upon a 
 hill which commands a noble view of the Bosphorus 
 and Constantinople. It is' thinly shaded with large, 
 spreading trees, and contains many tombs and other 
 monuments, of chaste design and good execution. 
 They are not unlike the memorials seen in an Ameri- 
 can or English cemetery. 
 
 Their massive solidity particularly strikes the visi- 
 tor who approaches the spot, as I did, through the vast 
 Turkish burying- ground, which stretches from the 
 Bosphorus along the north side of Topana and Pera 
 almost to the one just described, belonging to the 
 Armenians. Here the monuments are all slight and 
 frail. Marbles six feet in height are only eight inches 
 wide, and one or two thick, and they are chiselled with 
 the most fragile tenuity, in order to give them the 
 form of the human head and neck. These are unfit 
 for building the walls, or even for paving the courts of 
 churches; but they are temptingly convenient for 
 bridging a wet- weather stream, or forming a hasty 
 
248 
 
 Armenian Monuments. 
 
 causeway over a mud-hole, for which less honorable 
 purposes they are often used. 
 
 The Armenian monuments are covered with the 
 usual inscriptions in their own language, commemorat- 
 ing, as we who cannot read them may safely conclude, 
 the dignities and virtues of the departed, in the spirit 
 of vanity or affection which dictate such things in all 
 places and ages. In another respect, however, they 
 are quite peculiar. Upon many of the monuments the 
 instruments of the trade followed by the deceased in 
 his life-time are conspicuously sculptured. On one 
 stone is seen the hammer and knife of the shoemaker, 
 — on another, the tailor’s shears. On one I saw the 
 anvil and hammer of the blacksmith. 
 
 A plough of primitive form, attached to a yoke, was 
 the coat of arms which pointed to the resting-place of 
 the peasant — whilst an inkstand and pen, which are 
 sculptured upon many tombs, denote the truly Arme- 
 nian vocation of accountant and scribe. There is 
 something touching in these simple memorials, and it 
 is impossible not to admire the true independence and 
 good sense, which is not ashamed to proclaim in a way 
 so public and enduring, that honored i)arents and be- 
 loved relatives lived by handicraft employments. It 
 is said that some have carried this peculiarity so far as 
 to sculpture upon the tomb the instruments of punish- 
 ment by which their relatives have been executed for 
 alleged crimes. I did not meet with any instances of 
 this kind, though I took some pains to discover evi- 
 dences of a usage so very curious. 
 
 Armenian funerals arc attended with some peculiar 
 
Visits to the Tomb. 249 
 
 rites, tlie most interesting of wliicli is the taking leave 
 of the deceased, immediately before the interment. It. 
 is usual on such occasions to give the most unrestrained 
 indulgence to expressions of grief, which are said often 
 to be heart-rending. I had no opportunity of witness- 
 ing such a scene, but I often saw evidence of the strong 
 propensity of the Armenians to linger about the graves 
 of their deceased relatives and friends. 
 
 Dr. Walsh, who enjoyed many advantages for be- 
 coming acquainted with their views upon this and other 
 subjects, says that they believe themselves to hold 
 spiritual converse with the departed, which is the prin- 
 cipal cause of these visits to their tbmbs. With what- 
 ever views they pay these visits, it is certain that the 
 burying ground is their favorite resort, where they 
 spend many of their spare .hours. Whole families, 
 parents and little children, may be seen gathered 
 around a tomb in silence and seriousness, or in ani- 
 mated and joyous converse. The grave slab is often 
 their mat, and often the table upon which they spread 
 the cake, fruit, and wine for their fete champ etre. I 
 have seen it too employed as a card-table, where the 
 idle or profligate play for piastres, hour after hour. 
 All the burying grounds, Turkish, Jewish, and Chris- 
 tian, are chief places of public resort. If this custom 
 were not so common in other parts of the East, I might 
 conclude that it originated here, from the vast number 
 and extent of the cemeteries, which hardly leave any 
 other places for public promenades and sports. 
 
 11 ^ 
 
CHAPTER XXXI. 
 
 NAVY YAED. 
 
 After my return from the churches, I paid a visit 
 to the Sultan’s nav^ yard. Nothing can be finer for 
 the purpose of building and repairing ships, or of being 
 made the maritime depot of a great nation. It is upon 
 the Golden Horn, which here forms a large bay on the 
 Pera shore, a little above the floating bridge. The 
 water is of sufficient depth to afford good anchorage 
 for ships of the line, in water close to the shore. It is 
 perfectly sheltered from all winds, and though almost 
 in the heart of the capital, is completely removed from 
 all interference with merchant vessels, which moor just 
 below the bridge ; whilst public vessels pass through 
 the draws, of which there are two, into the harbor of 
 the navy yard, immediately above it.' We passed un- 
 der one of the draws in a caique, the only craft which 
 passes beyond this limit. 
 
 In approaching the landing-place, near the gate of 
 the arsenal, as the vast enclosure of the navy yard, 
 with its contents, is usually called, we passed by some 
 old ships of war, the remains of the fleet destroyed by 
 the allies at Navarino. They are in a state of decay- 
 
Question of the East. 
 
 251 
 
 several of them have been broken for their timber and 
 other materials ; and the rest, including an immense 
 vessel of, I believe, one hundred and twenty guns, 
 must soon share the same fate. One would think that 
 the perpetrators of that outrage on the dignity and in- 
 dependence of the Ottoman empire, would be anxious 
 to see these interesting memorials of their blind and 
 criminal policy, completely annihilated. This wish 
 will be consummated long before the disastrous con- 
 sequences of that breach of good faith will cease to 
 operate disastrously upon Turkey and all Europe. 
 Eussia should be excepted, which is likely to reap the 
 whole harvest of a crime, in the perpetration of which 
 she acted only a secondary part. 
 
 From the moment of the destruction of the Turkish 
 fleet, which dismembered the Sultan’s empire, and by 
 its moral influence doomed it to inevitable weakness 
 and ultimate extinction, the question of the East, as it 
 is compendiously called, has been the first and the 
 most difficult in European politics. It is becoming 
 every day more complicated and unmanageable, and 
 will only find its solution in the annihilation of the 
 Ottoman empire, and probably in a general continental 
 war.* As a moral question, the Christian may con- 
 
 * The real object of dispute, says an English writer in 1853, is at 
 present the empire of the East, and the first place in the East. Eng- 
 land and Russia alone aspire to that. England does so reluctantly 
 and unconsciously, perhaps. But still the power whose flag floats 
 at Peshawur and in Pegu, in the islands of Borneo and Canton — this 
 is the power which the Russians look on as their rival ; and with 
 whom principally they seem to desire at the present moment to try 
 a fall. England, in fact, pretends to dispute with Russia the empir- 
 
252 
 
 Question of the East. 
 
 template such changes with hope, but its political as- 
 pect is certainly fraught with fearful omens. What 
 good has been done by the battle of Navarino? 
 Greece, too weak to be independent, and too corrupt 
 and ignorant for freedom and self-government, has 
 become virtually a province of Kussia, under a stupid 
 king, whose rule is decidedly more oppressive than 
 that of the Turk. 
 
 The Pacha of Egypt, the sternest and most terrible 
 tyrant known to history in the last thousand years, 
 acting upon the policy sanctioned by Europe at Navar- 
 ino, has wrested Egypt, Syria, and Arabia from Tur- 
 key ; and the allies, having robbed Turkey of the ele- 
 ments of her natural and moral power, are now labor- 
 ing to counteract her irresistible tendency to ruin by 
 the arts of diplomacy. They perceive that they have 
 demolished the only natural and efficient barrier to the 
 dangerous po vver of Russia, which can only realize her 
 ambitious schemes by pushing the limits of her vast 
 empire to the Bosphorus and the Dardanelles.* 
 
 of Asia, and the paramount influence in Europe. Thus the struggle 
 that is now commencing, and of which the present century will not 
 see the end, is for no less than the supremacy over two quarters of 
 the globe.” 
 
 * “Though the establishment of the Turks in Europe is now of such 
 respectable antiquity, that its fourth and perhaps fated centenary 
 draws nigh, and though their rights of dominion have acquired a 
 title beyond that of mere prescription, yet the nation itself is still 
 only ** encamped*' on its conquests. They have never comported 
 themselves either politically or socially, as if they anticipated in 
 Europe any continuing home. Ottoman legends relate how a belief 
 arose, even in the very hour of conquest, that the banner of the cross 
 would again be some day carried to the brink of the Straits; and it 
 
Navy Yard. 
 
 253 
 
 We experienced some difficulty in getting admitted 
 into the Navy Yard, an order having been issued by 
 the chief of this department, that no stranger should 
 for the present be allowed to see it. The reason of 
 this order is supposed to be the derangement of the 
 establishment, from some late changes in the adminis- 
 tration. The sentinel at the gate denied us admission, 
 and refused the proffered bucksheesh with a decision 
 as unusual as it was discouraging. W e inquired for an 
 American known to Mr. H., who was lately employed 
 in one of the shops, and were allowed to accompany tlie 
 , soldier who went into the enclosure to look for him. 
 
 This gave us opportunity to look at several inter- 
 esting objects. The American, however, was no long- 
 er there, and our guide was leading us, in spite of our 
 attempts to turn to the right and left, directly back to 
 the gate by which we had entered. We fortunately, 
 however, met a Greek physician, who had been ad- 
 mitted to see a sick man, and contriving to send back 
 
 our soldier with his fee, we accompanied Dr. 
 
 through the establishment. It has the usual appurten- 
 
 is said that this misgiving is traceable in the selection of the Asiatic 
 shore for the final resting-place of true believers. It is certain, too, 
 that from the first definite apparition of the Russian empire, they 
 instinctively recognized the antagonists of Fate. Europe had hard- 
 ly learned the titles of the Czar, when the gaze of the Porte was un- 
 easily directed to the new metropolis on the Neva ; throughout the 
 whole country, notwithstanding its chequered incidents, the impres- 
 sion was never weakened ; and to this day the inhabitants of Con- 
 stantinople point out the particular gate by which the Muscovite 
 troops are to enter the City of Promise .” — Edinburgh Review, Jan. 
 1850. 
 
254 
 
 Navy Yard. 
 
 ances. There is an extensive saw-mill, worked by 
 steam, a rolling-mill to prepare copper for sheathing 
 vessels, a foundry for cannon and machinery to bore 
 them, and a shop for the construction of boilers for 
 steamboats. W e saw an enormous copper-boiler, near- 
 ly completed, the second which has been attempted 
 here. The machinery, which is from England, is very 
 fine, and works admirably. Several of the workmen 
 are also English. 
 
 We also saw a beautiful inclined plane, constructed 
 of marble, Avith the appliances necessary for building a 
 first-class ship of war. This, with most of the im- 
 provements of this fine establishment, is the work of 
 Mr. Khodes, an American gentleman, who was until 
 recently employed as principal naval architect of the 
 Turkish government. Many of their finest vessels, 
 which are said by good judges to be equal to any in 
 the world, are constructed under his orders. lie de- 
 served and enjoyed in an eminent degree the confidence 
 of the late Sultan, who was both his patron and friend, 
 and many attempts to injure him by intrigue, made 
 during the life of Mahmoud, were signally unsuccess- 
 ful. They have been renewed, however, with more 
 effect under his youthful successor, and Mr. Khodes 
 has recently thought it due to his self-respect to resign 
 his post and return to his native countr3^ The Sultan 
 has some foreign officers in his naval service, whose 
 personal and national feelings were too deeply wound- 
 ed to permit an American to enjoy quietly a station so 
 important and conspicuous in the Turkish marine.* 
 
 * “The last anniversary of the birth-day ot Washington (1854) was 
 
Oppression of the Peasantry. 255 
 
 The carpenters and other operatives work under the 
 thick shade of ar fine grove of trees, impervious, or 
 nearly so, to the rays of the sun, whilst they admit a 
 free circulation of air, — an arrangement, in this climate 
 at least, where the sky is commonly serene, very supe- 
 rior to the close and dusty shops where such labor is 
 usually performed. 
 
 I heard a pleasing anecdote of a change which has 
 been introduced into the administration of this estab- 
 lishment since the publication of the Hatti Sheriff. 
 The Turkish government, instead of obtaining timber 
 for building ships of war by purchasing it at the mar- 
 ket, or by sending its agents to cut it down in the for- 
 ests, has long been accustomed to make upon the vil- 
 lages of certain parts of the country a demand for a 
 prescribed quantity of oak and pine, to be delivered 
 at the public depots. Like everything else in this un- 
 happy, misgoverned country, this usage gave rise to 
 abuses, by which the various functionaries contrived to 
 enrich themselves. It commonly happened, when the 
 poor peasants, torn from their rural occupations at the 
 most unpropitious time, brought their quota of timber 
 to the depot appointed, that the officer having charge 
 of the business refused to receive it, under the pretext 
 
 observed in Constantinople, for the first time, with imposing cere- 
 monies. In the harbor were several Turkish, English, French, Dutch, 
 and Austrian vessels of war ; also the U. S. ship Levant. In the 
 morning, each ship displayed the American ensign at the masthead. 
 At noon the Levant fired a salute of twenty-one guns, which was 
 immediately followed by a similar salute from all the other ships of . 
 war in port. In the afternoon. Captain Turner of the Levant had 
 a party on board his ship.” 
 
I 
 
 2o() Palace of Constantine. 
 
 that it was not of the description called for by the or- 
 der of government. The peasants must return to the 
 mountains for another supply, which was liable to a 
 similar condemnation, besides the certain ruin that 
 must come upon their domestic affairs from such pro- 
 tracted absence. In order to extricate themselves from 
 this perplexity, it was usual for these poor people to 
 give a bribe to the officer to induce him to receive the 
 tribute, which, as being condemned, they must also de- 
 liver for a mere nominal price. 
 
 This abuse exists no longer. The government buys : 
 
 its ship-timber at the market price at a much dearer ^ 
 
 rate, to be sure, than formerly, but without oppressing J 
 
 its helpless subjects. Such practical effects of the new j 
 
 system of reform are gratifying proofs of the sincerity ^ 
 
 of the government, and excite a hope that the system 
 may be efficiently carried out in all departments of the ^ 
 
 administration. < 
 
 After leaving the navy-yard, we went to visit a 
 ruinous edifice near the west wall of Constantinople, 
 commonly known as the palace of Constantine. It has 
 a first and second story, and consists of three or ^four 
 arched rooms, now occupied as a wretched dwelling. , 
 
 There are some columns of very bad execution, and of 
 no order of architecture. A fragment of Greek in- 
 scription inverted is shown upon a broken stone. 
 
 The building is not Turkish, but it seems to have 
 little claim to the character commonly assigned to it. 
 
 It has the appearance of a Genoese structure, being 
 composed of a mixture of brick and stone. ’The city 
 did not extend so far west in the days of Constantine, 
 

 Its Occupants. 257 
 
 and tf built by him at all, it was a country villa. The 
 modern occupants are Spanish Jews, a half dozen at 
 least of whom, all women, fell into a high quarrel, 
 which, as well as we could understand it, concerned 
 their respective rights to show the premises to stran- 
 gers, and the proper ownership of the gratuity we were 
 expected to make. We were ready to depart before 
 they had settled these difficult questions, and they 
 turned upon us with such earnestness, and even fury, 
 that we were compelled to use some violence to rescue 
 ourselves. I never heard more inharmonious voices, 
 nor saw woman apparently -more degraded and dis- 
 gusting. 
 
CHAPTER XXXII. 
 
 HOWLING DERVISES. 
 
 Returning to the Golden Horn, we took a boat to 
 the northern termination of the bridge, and walked 
 through the extensive burjing-ground which stretches 
 thence to the toAver of Galata. It is an inclined plane, 
 sloping towards the south, and in this part, unlike 
 most Turkish cemeteries, nearly bare of trees. The 
 hour was 1 P. M., and the rays of the sun, Avhich shone 
 Avith intense brilliancy, reflected by the naked sand and 
 the tomb-stones, produced a burning, stifling heat 
 altogether intolerable. I reached my apartment pant- 
 ing for breath, and quite overAvhelmed ; and it Avas not 
 until after a repose of several hours that I Avas able to 
 prosecute the engagements to Avhich the afternoon had 
 been allotted. 
 
 The temperature of Constantinople is subject to great 
 extremes, at least so far as I was able to judge from 
 experience. The nights Avere invariably cool. I even 
 thought I could perceive a kind of mountain chilliness 
 in them. During the day the fiery heat of the sun, 
 Avhich acts Avith immense poAver, is tempered by a 
 northerly Avind, Avhich bloAvs doAvn the Bosphorus 
 
Temperature of Constantinople. 259 
 
 from the Black Sea. It begins to be felt by eight or 
 nine o’clock, A. M., and before afternoon becomes a 
 gale, agitating the water in the harbor to such a de- 
 dree, that a passage in a caique to Scutari, or even to 
 Constantinople, becomes an adventure. It is only in 
 the streets, and in such sheltered places as the ceme- 
 tery of Galata, that great inconvenience is experienced 
 from the heat of the sun. In passing from one of 
 these glowing localities to some considerable elevation, 
 or an open space where the Euxine breezes are enjoy- 
 ed, a change is experienced almost as violent as that 
 which is felt on leaving a heated parlor to encounter 
 the keen northern blasts of an American winter. These 
 vicissitudes, however, seem tp produce no bad effect 
 upon the health of the people of Constantinople. I 
 was told by a physician, whose professional pursuits 
 have made him well acquainted with the subject, that 
 a residence here during the warm season is not only 
 free from all danger, but often decidedly salutary to 
 the more delicate pulmonary patients. The rest of the 
 year he considers pernicious to this class of persons, 
 from the prevalence of damp chilling winds, accompa- 
 nied often with profuse rains, and occasionally with 
 extreme cold. 
 
 At 3. P. M., I went with a number of friends to Scu- 
 tari, to witness the performance of a strange sect of 
 Mohammedan fanatics, called the Howling Dervises. 
 They occupy convents, are wholly consecrated to relig- 
 ious observances, and possess considerable estates, the 
 gift of zealous Musselmen for the maintenance of these 
 establishments. I had no means of learning what arc 
 
260 
 
 Howling Dervises. 
 
 the distinguishing dogmas and more private duties of 
 this sect, but they have on Thursday of each week an 
 open exhibition of what, I suppose, they would call 
 their public worship. It is regarded as one of the sights 
 of Constantinople, and few strangers omit to visit it 
 at least once during even a short stay in the capital. 
 Their chapel of exhibition is nearly a mile from the 
 landing-place in Scutari. We passed through an outer 
 court into a large square room, a convenient space 
 upon two sides being separated from the rest by a low 
 wooden railing for the use of spectators. Some rude 
 musical instruments and some old dirks or short swords 
 were suspended in the area devoted to the religious 
 performances. The latter, it is said, are sometimes 
 used by the more fanatical of the fraternity to inflict 
 wounds upon themselves by way of penance, which 
 they regard as highly meritorious. The dervises, thirty 
 or forty in number, stood in rows on three sides of the 
 area appropriated to their performance. They were 
 about to recommence their exercises, which are occa- 
 sionally suspended for a few minutes for the purpose 
 of taking breath. 
 
 The fourth side was occupied by a number of per- 
 sons who were not dervises, but seemed, from the great 
 deference paid them, to be distinguished personages, 
 who countenanced the fraternity by their presence. I 
 observed one of them, after some time, lay aside a part 
 of his dress, and take a part with the rest as a kind of 
 amateur performer. These persons were seated on 
 sheep-skins, covered with long wool dyed bright scar- 
 let color. Near the centre of the room sat a dorvise, 
 
Howling Her vises. 
 
 ‘261 
 
 also upon a scarlet fleece, wlio appeared to be a chief- 
 tain in the fraternity, and on this occasion he opened 
 their exercises by setting up a low, dull chant. In this 
 he was accompanied by the dervises standing around 
 the room, who, at the same time, commenced a slow 
 and measured motion of the body, backwards and for- 
 wards, the feet alone remaining immovable. By im- 
 perceptible degrees the chant became more loud and 
 quick, and with it the movements of the devotees cor- 
 responded. The hand described a longer arc, witli 
 perpetually increasing velocity. Each of the perform 
 ers might be likened to a revolving pendulum inverted. 
 The resemblance ceased, however, when, at the end of 
 a quarter of an hour, the more supple and active nearly 
 struck their foreheads against the pavement, and it be- 
 came impossible to bend so low in the opposite direc- 
 tion, without losing their balance and falling headlong. 
 Nothing could exceed the violence of gesticulation and 
 preternatural energy with which they now performed 
 these exhausting evolutions. 
 
 The heat of the day was extreme, and all were lit- 
 erally drenched with perspiration. Every muscle and 
 fibre was called into play, and labored with observable 
 and fearful effort. The eyes half closed and turned 
 upward, rolled swiftly and frantically. The chant, 
 which’ grew every moment more quick and loud, 
 seemed at least to proceed not from the lungs, but 
 from the lower viscera, which visibly struggled and 
 agonized in sustaining this vocal accompaniment. 
 These profound, abdominal notes, painfully loud and 
 piercing, though half-stifled in their emission, would 
 
262 
 
 Frantic Cries. 
 
 more proper!}" give the name of grunting than of howl- 
 ing dervises to these deluded people. Xow and then, 
 however, the strained voice broke away from its im- 
 prisonment, and fell upon the ear of the spectator in 
 shrill, frantic tones, which might without impropriety 
 be called screaming or howling. 
 
 The chief, who led the performance from his seat 
 on the scarlet fleece, seemed less moved than any one 
 else, but he labored with all the arts of which long ex- 
 perience had made him a most perfect master, to work 
 up the feelings of the performers to the highest pitch, 
 and increase their already dangerous excitement into 
 absolute frenzy. He artfully varied his chant, and 
 made it more rapid, low, and piercing. He looked 
 with approving sanctimonious smiles upon the most 
 extravagant and rapt of the throng. He occasionally 
 clapped his hands, and several times broke out into 
 stirring appeals and exhortations. An instrument of 
 music, a rude tambourine, occasionally poured in its 
 hoarse, thrilling notes. 
 
 With several of the dervises the performance ended 
 in convulsions, a result which seemed to be expected 
 as well as desired, for two or three persons who took 
 no part, stood watching for such cases, and hastened to 
 receive the falling victims in their arms. They carried 
 them to the vacant area in the middle of the hall, and 
 employed friction, and striking the palms of the hands 
 and the soles of the feet to restore them. The first 
 unfortunate returned in a few minutes to his place 
 and devotions, which soon brought on a return of 
 spasms. 
 
A Strange Sight. 
 
 263 
 
 There was one poor fanatic who attracted peculiar 
 attention by his general appearance, and the superior 
 frenzy to which he attained. He wore a dark filthy 
 dress. His hair and beard coal black, were long, thick, 
 and bushy. At every vibration it waved in the air, 
 and lashed the faces and eyes of those next him, as 
 with a whip of scorpions, then falling over his own 
 face and breast, quite hid them from our sight. A 
 withered arm frightfully scarred and distorted, which 
 he kept bare, and swinging through the air like a club, 
 added to the really frightful appearance of this fanatic. 
 He outstripped all his fraternity in extravagance, and 
 at length leaping from his place, pitched headlong 
 upon the pavement in strong convulsions. Every 
 nerve and muscle was strained and distorted to the 
 utmost, and his head and feet 'were brought almost in 
 contact by the violence of his distortions. , The usual 
 means were resorted to for his recovery. The chief 
 men came forward and kissed him, or rubbed their 
 beards over his filthy face. 
 
 One who came in after the ceremonies began, and 
 was received with the most profound respect, came 
 and breathed upon him again and again.. This man, 
 as I understood, is a great santon, who works miracles, 
 and a number of children were brought at intervals of 
 the performance to obtain his blessing. He took them 
 in his arms, laid his hand upon their bosoms, and, in- 
 clining his head, breathed upon their faces. The con- 
 vulsions of the fanatic, however, were too strong to 
 yield to such remedies, though often repeated, and, 
 after waiting a considerable time to see him restored, I 
 
2G4 
 
 Howling Dervises. 
 
 left the place whilst he was yet struggling in the arms 
 of three or four of the dervises. 
 
 It was a strange sight I had been looking upon, and 
 strange sounds conspired with it to put my brain in a 
 whirl. My nerves had suffered greatly from witness- 
 ing such a scene, and I retired thanking God for the 
 light of the Gospel of His Son. The Mohammedans, 
 of whom a large number were spectators of this scene, 
 evidently regarded it with the deepest reverence. Sev- 
 eral of them occasionally advanced to the arena and 
 took part in the exercises, but without attaining or ap- 
 parently aspiring to the perfect absorption and frenzy 
 which the practised and highly excitable nerves of the 
 initiated enabled thefti to command, or, more properly, 
 rendered unavoidable. Some half a dozen small boys 
 also participated in the exercises. They seemed to be 
 in training as noviciates. 
 
 % 
 
 1 
 
CHAPTER XXXIII. 
 
 THE SULTAN. 
 
 June 26th. This day, Friday, is the Mussulman 
 sabbath. The public institutions are all closed, and 
 other objects and places usually visited by travellers, 
 if they are kept wholly or chiefly by Turks, are inac- 
 cessible. Without adverting to this fact, with which 
 I was well enough acquainted, I proceeded to the cit}^, 
 at an early hour, with a view of examining some ob- 
 jects of minor interest, which I had overlooked or 
 omitted in' former excursions. A shabby, dirty Jew 
 soon forced himself upon us as a guide, professing, as 
 usual, to know everything, and to be able to secure us 
 admission to whatever we might desire. 
 
 We followed him for some time without succeeding 
 in getting access to anything, and after losing two hours 
 or more, crossed the Golden .Ilorn to Topana, having- 
 arranged to visit a mosque where the Sultan with his 
 suite was expected to be present. At this hour of 
 the day, every Friday, the Sultan is accustomed to 
 perform his devotions in one of the mosques of Con- 
 stantinople or its vicinity. It affords a favorable op- 
 portunity to see him and his principal officers, civil and 
 
 12 
 
266 
 
 E O Y A L V I S 1 
 
 military, of wliicli all strangers commonly avail tnerii' 
 selves. When the mosque selected for the day is upon 
 the shorcy the royal visit is made in barges. On other 
 occasions the Sultan and his court are mounted on 
 horseback, and the display of fine horses and gay equips 
 ages is said by those who have witnessed the scene to 
 be very imposing. Notice is given in the morning of 
 the mosque selected for the day, and travellers obtain 
 information from the boatmen of Topana, who arc 
 usually employed on these expeditions. 
 
 We found, on making inquiry of the watermen, that 
 the royal visit to-day was to be paid to a mosque on 
 the Asiatic side of the Bosphorus, distant about eight 
 miles. It was already 9^ A. M., and we had to contend 
 against the wind as well as the strength of the current. 
 We took a caique carrying two men and four oars. 
 These boats are very long and narrow, of a very light 
 and peculiar construction. Their form is often com- 
 pared to that of a swallow. They more resemble an 
 egg divided longitudinally, with the ends much elon^ 
 gated, and made very sharp. 
 
 The baatmen occupy tlic centre of the boat, and 
 when no passengers are on board, the prow appears 
 very low, and is often submerged when the water is 
 rough, whilst the stern* rises several feet above the 
 water. The passengers, who sit back of the rowers, 
 restore the equilibrium, and the caique appears only to 
 touch the water by a few feet of the middle of its sharp 
 keel. There is a fore and quarter deck, which cover 
 a half or two-thirds of the entire length of the boat, 
 and the utmost care is requisite in taking one’s place not 
 
A Caique. 
 
 267 
 
 fco overturn it. If alone, one must occupy the middle, and 
 avoid any inclination of the body to the right or left. 
 When more than one person is on board, still greater 
 care is necessary to preserve the equilibrium of this 
 most unsteady and ticklish of aquatic vehicles. So 
 many precautions are apt at first to produce a little 
 apprehension for one’s safety, which is increased rather 
 than diminished by the timed and measured move- 
 ments of the men. When, however, everything is 
 properly adjusted, and the frail bark is carefully dis- 
 entangled from the vast fleet of small craft that is al- 
 Avays to be seen about the wharf, nothing can exceed 
 the beauty of its movements or the strength and dex- 
 terity of the boatmen. 
 
 The long, sharp beak, cuts the Avaves AVith incon- 
 ceiA^able facility, and the graceful caique, gently rising 
 and falling Avith the heaving sea, glides along like the 
 playful flight of a swalloAV through the air. The oars 
 are of a form as peculiar as the boat. The paddle is 
 light and elastic, but the handle swells into a thick 
 mass, just beloAV the hands, in order to balance the 
 longer end, which plays in the Avater. To effect this 
 Avith the utmost exactness, holes are often bored in the 
 handle and filled Avith lead. The gunAvale and benches 
 of the caiques are commonly ornamented A\dth carving, 
 Avhich is certainly rude enough, and sometimes a sen- 
 tence of the Koran is inscribed in Turkish characters. 
 Our boatmen on the present occasion Avere Greeks, Avho 
 are seldom seen on the Bosphorus, being mostly em- 
 ployed in plying betAveen Constantinople and the 
 island and coasts of the sea of Marmora, for Avhich 
 

 268 Salutations to the Sultan. 
 
 larger boats are used. They proved to be as fine fel- 
 lows as ever pulled at an oar, and carried us at a rapid 
 rate towards the place of our destination. 
 
 As we approached the new palace, on the European 
 side of the Bosphorus, the present residence of the Sul- 
 tan, -we had the mortification to see the royal cortege 
 leave the wharf with a speed which bade defiance to 
 all competition. Passing near the palace, I had an- 
 other opportunity of admiring the beautiful architec- 
 ture and graceful proportions of its immense fa9ade, 
 adorned with two lofty gates of unparalleled elegance, 
 and with nearly one hundred marble columns. 
 
 Just as we were opposite the fortress, west of the 
 palace, we were startled by the loud report of artillery. 
 A great number of guns were discharged in quick suc- 
 cession. It was the customary salutation to the Sultan, 
 who was more than half a mile in advance. The same 
 order was observed at the other forts, of which we 
 passed half a dozen. The salutation was reserved till 
 the Sultan was removed out of the reach of all harm, 
 even had the guns been loaded with ball. This delay, 
 I believe, is not usual elsewhere, but it is well devised 
 to secure the honored personage from the painful shock 
 of such repeated discharges of artillery. 
 
 The gay Ottoman flag was flying everywhere, and 
 soldiers with military music were paraded along the 
 shore, to add pomp and dignity to the scene. We 
 were left so fast by the royal caiques, that we began to 
 feel some apprehension of being too late for the spec- 
 tacle. A multitude of boats, however, were going in 
 the same direction, and we presumed to the same place. 
 
Exciting Race. 
 
 269 
 
 One of them bore a pacba, who was not likely to com- 
 mit so important an error as to time, and our Greeks 
 perceiving tliat we sliould feel secure against disap- 
 pointment whilst in such company, strained every 
 nerve to prevent the pacha’s boat, which was worked 
 by three men and six oars, from passing us. It was a 
 perfect race for several miles. The Turks were ashamed 
 of being outstripped by a boat of such inferior preten- 
 sions, and the Greeks were evidently impelled by na- 
 tional pride, and their undying hatred for the Turk, 
 not less than by a wish to gratify their customers. 
 
 I never saw men in any circumstances make greater 
 exertions. They threw off all their clothes but the 
 shirt, which was drenched with perspiration. I was 
 gratified to find, on reaching the point opposite the 
 mosque where we were to turn across the Bosphorus, 
 that we were still in advance two or three boats’ length. 
 Here our noble fellows slackened their oars, and al- 
 lowed their fairly beaten antagonists to pass them. A 
 point of etiquette had occurred, and they feared to take 
 precedence of a high public functionary in approaching 
 the landing-place. Not a word was said, not even a 
 smile was seen, but the satisfaction of our men was 
 evident and excessive, and we did not fail to congratu- 
 late them upon their achievement in a manner more 
 undisguised than they would have thought it prudent 
 to employ. 
 
 The Sultan was in the mosque, which was about 
 forty yards from the edge of the water. The interven- 
 ing space was filled with soldiers and curious specta- 
 tors, including many Franks, who, like ourselves, were 
 
270 
 
 Royal Barges. 
 
 waiting in well chosen positions to see the object of 
 their expedition, as he should retire from the place of 
 prayer. 
 
 We were kept waiting fifteen or twenty minutes, 
 which afibrded us opportunity to examine the splendid 
 caiques which were moored at the wharf. There were 
 six royal barges, besides a multitude belonging to mil- 
 itary and other ofiicers. The two largest bore the Sul- 
 tan and his ministers, and four of smaller dimensions 
 seemed to be designed as guard-boats, two sailing be- 
 fore, and two behind, the royal caiques. These were 
 of the most graceful form and splendid decorations. 
 They must have been nearly eighty feet in length, and 
 each was rowed by two or four men, selected for their 
 size and youth, no less than for dexterity and strength. 
 They were uniformly dressed in loose trousers, and a 
 long shirt, with very broad flowing sleeves, all perfect- 
 ly white and clean, and confined at the waist with a 
 girdle. The prow and stem were very lofty, rising 
 many feet above the water, and, like every other part 
 of the boat, were literally covered with gold. 
 
 The Sultan’s seat was on a sort of quarter-deck, cov- 
 ered by a canopy, of which the frame-work was gilded, 
 and the covering of scarlet broad-cloth, and hung vdth 
 curtains of scarlet silk velvet, deeply bordered and 
 fringed with gold. The cushions were richly embroid- 
 ered with gold, and the deck was covered with a sump- 
 tuous carpet. The ropes by which the boats were moor- 
 ed to the shore were of purple. A long carpet of blue 
 cloth extended from the boat to the door of the mosque, 
 in order that the descendant and representative of the 
 
The Sultan. 
 
 271 
 
 Prophet might not 'set his foot upon the vulgar earth, 
 A man continued to sweep it with a brush, to prevent 
 the accumulation of dust. 
 
 At the end of nearly half an hour, the attendants 
 began to come out of the mosque, and, from the pre- 
 parations amongst the bargemen and soldiers, it was 
 evident the corti^ge was soon to move. A great many 
 high officers of the state and army successively made 
 their appearance. Several of them were fine-looking, 
 venerable men, with gray moustaches. Hallil Pacha, 
 the lately dismissed minister, and brother-in-law to the 
 Sultan, was one of them. They wore green coats, stars 
 of diamond on their breasts, and their swords and 
 vests glittered with gold and precious stones. 
 
 After the due arrangements had been made, and sol- 
 diers were drawn up in two lines on either side of the 
 way, with other preparations a little tedious to an im- 
 patient spectator, anxious to see the principal object, 
 the Sultan at length made his appearance, preceded 
 by a functionary, religious, I suppose, bearing before 
 him a censer smoking with incense, and accompanied 
 by high officers, who carried the folds of his ample 
 cloak.''* lie had on a common red cap or fez, with a 
 
 * A writer in an English journal of October, 1853, referring to 
 the impending war with Russia, states : “ An ancient custom re- 
 quires the Sultan to march to battle against the infidel at the head 
 of his sacred troops. This custom has degenerated into a fiction. 
 In accordance with it, however, the Padishah is preparing to quit 
 his palace, and during the war he will inliabit the kiosk atTherapia, 
 which liis father Mahmoud occupied during the late Russian war, and 
 which is being prepared for his reception, and is, we may add, vast- 
 ly more comfortable than the tent of liis great ancestor, Suleiman 
 the Magnificent” 
 
272 Gorgeous Spectacle. 
 
 brilliant on the front. The collar of his frock-coat 
 was covered with splendid diamonds, and a diamond 
 star hung on his breast. He is tall, nearly six feet, 
 well made for a Turk, and looks very serious, thought- 
 ful, and rather pale. His forehead would be pro- 
 nounced intellectual, and the expression of his coun- 
 tenance denotes energy and character. He is remark- 
 ably well-grown for a youth of seventeen or eighteen 
 years old, and has an uncommon though still thin 
 beard, which is unshaven. 
 
 The Turks raised their hands to their bosoms, and 
 made a solemn inclination' of the head, — the Franks 
 uncovered and bowed, according to the custom of their 
 country. The Sultan regarded them, one by one with 
 his piercing black eye, but deigned no other recogni- 
 tion of their homage to him. This is the custom here, 
 and is less troublesome than the European fashion, 
 which exacts from kings, when they ride through the 
 streets, the toil of taking off the hat to every person 
 who salutes them. The Sultan was conducted to his 
 seat in the barge by high officers, who knelt before him 
 as they adjusted his cushions and the folds of his 
 cloak. 
 
 The cortege of caiques, as they pushed off from the 
 shore and glided down the Bosphorus, was a truly 
 magnificent spectacle. It was just twelve o’clock, and 
 as the sun poured its flood of light through a cloudless 
 sky on the tout ensemble, glittering with purple and 
 gold, the scene took the hue of a gorgeous enchant- 
 ment, and became too bright for the eye to look stead- 
 ily upon it. . The water which trickled from the gild- 
 
Gorgeous Spectacle. 
 
 273 
 
 ed paddles, as they rose and fell with the most exact 
 regularity, seemed converted into shining pearls. . I 
 was reminded of the triumphant procession of Cleo- 
 patra on the bosom of the Cydnus, when 
 
 “ The barge she sat in, like a burnished throne, 
 
 Burnt on the water,, the. .poop was beaten gold ; 
 
 ' Purple the sails, — the oars were silver ; 
 
 Which to the tune of flutes kept stroke.” 
 
 It was by far the most oriental spectacle I have ever 
 seen. 
 
 12 * 
 
CHAPTER XXXIV. 
 
 TURKISH SOLDIERS. 
 
 Just below the mosque where these ceremonies took 
 place, a small stream discharges its waters into the Bos- 
 phorus. It forms a fertile vale, shaded with thick 
 spreading trees. In the warm season, this is one of 
 the most favorite retreats of the Turks, where they 
 spend a few hours in the heat of the day. Here they 
 bring their harems to enjoy the country air, who, sit- 
 ting in groups and covered with white veils, feast on 
 confectionary, whilst their watchful, taciturn lords, re- 
 clining at a distance on carpets or mats spread on the 
 ground in the shade, smoke their long chibouks and 
 sip black coffee. 
 
 The place is called the Heavenly Waters, and some- 
 times the Sweet Waters of Asia. I saw, both in going 
 and returning, a great many Turkish soldiers, who 
 were drawn up along the shore to do honor to the 
 young sultan, and I was struck, as I always am, with 
 their very unmilitary appearance. But* one never sees 
 amongst them the rude, disorderly conduct, and bois- 
 terous merriment, so common amongst undisciplined 
 and ill-governed troops in other countries. This would 
 
Turkish Soldiers. 
 
 275 
 
 be unnational and inconsistent with tlie sluggish tem- 
 perament and grave manners of a Turk. I refer to 
 the want of everything in their appearance and bearing 
 which belongs to a regular well-trained soldier. They 
 are mostly boys, many of them cannot be above twelve 
 or fourteen years of age, and are scarcely half grown. 
 The veterans are said to be on the frontiers in active 
 service, whilst the young recruits are retained in the 
 fortresses and barracks in and near the capital, to iDcr- 
 feet their discipline.* 
 
 * A writer in an English periodical, November 1853, presents a 
 striking picture of the gathering together of the Turkish troops in 
 the city of the Sultan, at the commencement of hostilities with 
 Russia. 
 
 “ Since the war manifesto was publicly read at Constantinople, 
 the war fever has been continually increasing, and every one is so 
 intent on procuring arms, that even the most useful articles of house* 
 hold furniture are sold, if the necessary funds for the purchase can- 
 not be raised in any other way. In the midst of a population roused 
 to war, no lawless act whatever is heard of. European travellers, 
 with their wives and daughters, walk fearlessly about the bazars of 
 the capital ; nor have we to record a single instance of insult to a 
 Christian, either native or foreigner. The behavior of the Asiatic 
 hordes in the capital and its environs, is described as exemplary. 
 A stranger cannot walk through the streets of Constantinople with- 
 out seeing the most evident signs of war. Troops of the line are 
 marching and counter-marching ; steamers are daily embarking 
 men, horses, and baggage. The narrow streets and ricketty wooden 
 houses tremble to the roll of heavy ordnance dragged over rugged 
 pavement. But these are the preparations of the government, the 
 mustering of the organized forces of regular warfare. ^ 
 
 “ Besides all this, we see the numerous volunteer corps of citizens 
 arming themselves to resist their northern foe. The firemen of 
 Stamboul — as stout, active, and rough a set of men as any city 
 coul4 furnish — march past, armed with heavy axes and pistols, 
 
276 
 
 The Turkish Army. 
 
 This is probably true, and it would certainly be little 
 less than a sacrifice to send the juvenile bands which 
 I saw about Constantinoj)le, into the field against th6 
 veteran Egyptian regiments of Ibrahim Pasha. As far 
 as I had opportunity to witness the military exercises 
 of these troops, they were on a par with their personal 
 appearance. They were ludicrously awkward in their 
 motions and attitudes, straggled from the line, and 
 obeyed the word of command without any pretensions 
 to the observance of time. 
 
 The Turkish army, it is well known, have, ever since 
 the destruction of the Janissaries, been trained accord- 
 ing to European tactics. The military system of France, 
 always the best in Europe, has, I believe, been adopted. 
 French officers have been employed to communicate 
 
 much like the ancient janissaries. Troops of lazy apprentices, joined 
 with gray-beard and respectable shopkeepers, who have buckled on 
 their fathers’ or grandfathers’ sword, and burnished up some ancient 
 firelock, are repairing to the Seraskier to tender their services, while 
 rude Turkoman shepherds, from the mountains of Anatolia, armed to 
 the teeth, are gazing with stupid wonder on the strange city life into 
 which they are introduced for the first time^ Bodies of. irregular 
 liorsemen — Kurdish, Turcoman, and Arab freebooters, whose cos- 
 tumes and arms are those of the middle ages — are from time to time 
 observed following some bearded warrior, the barbaric grandeur of 
 whose arms and dress mark him as the chief of a clan. Those who 
 have travelled the length and breadth of the Turkish empire, and 
 who fancied they could recognise its various tribes and peoples, are 
 now at fault, since the alarm of war has called from unknown soli- 
 tudes tribes of whose existence they were ignorant. The other day 
 a troop of strange people from a far country appeared, whose arms 
 were scimitars and bows and arrows: they were clothed in loose 
 white garments and peaked caps — probably from some remote val- 
 ley of Daghestan or Northern Kurdistan.” 
 
The Turkish Army. 
 
 277 
 
 instruction and discipline to the newly modelled regi- 
 ments, as well as to guide the schools established for 
 the education of military cadets. Hitherto these at- 
 tempts at reform seem not to have been followed by 
 any very flattering success. In the field, the new 
 troops have uniformly proved inferior to their ene- 
 mies, whether Eussians, Greeks, or Egyptians, and 
 upon parade they are certainly the most ungainly, 
 slouching, nnmilitary body of men I have ever seen 
 wearing a soldier’s uniform.* 
 
 Their costume is Frank, with the exception of the 
 fez, or red cap, which is universally worn by all who 
 have laid aside the turban, both in and out of the army, 
 and from the well-known aversion of the Orientals to 
 the hat, it is likely perhaps to be retained long after 
 every other part of their picturesque, graceful costume 
 shall have been supplanted by European fashions. 
 This cap is cylindrical in form, is eight or ten inches ins 
 height, and the crown is ornamented with a blue silk 
 tassel, often so long and thick that it spreads out over 
 the whole hinder part of the cap, in a manner very 
 pretty and picturesque. All the high officers of state 
 and of the army, and the Sultan himself, wear this cap, • 
 
 * If we may judge from an account given by a writer in Bentley’s 
 Miscellany in 1853, the progress of military discipline in the Turkish 
 army has not been very rapid. He says, “ The Turks have an un- 
 disciplined and raw infantry, soldiers young and officers untaught ; 
 an army, in fact, that should go through the schooling and the life 
 of a campaign in order to become an efficient one. The one hun- 
 dred, or the one hundred ani fifty thousand soldiers in the pay of 
 the Sultan, do not form an army sufficiently numerous to go through 
 such an ordeal. 
 
278 Unbecoming Costume. 
 
 as well as the common soldier. It has no rim nor pro- 
 jection to protect the eyes from light and heat. This 
 is a great defect in a climate where the whole at- 
 mosphere glares and glows during the summer, but, as 
 the head is never uncovered, and the Mohammedan, 
 when he offers his prayers, is obliged to press his fore- 
 head many times against the ground or floor of the 
 mosque, such an appendage to the fez, however conve- 
 nient on other occasions, could not be adopted. 
 
 Objectionable as the red cap may appear in our eyes, 
 it is th€ only item of the soldier’s wardrobe which does 
 not misfit and disfigure him. A Turk in small-clothes 
 is a ludicrous object. In his stately turban, long beard, 
 and flowing robes descending to the feet, he is a respec- 
 table and often a venerable figure — his slouching, in- 
 dolent movements, his bare feet and contemptible cross- 
 legged posture, are masked and partially remedied by 
 this ample, and often magnificent costume. In a close 
 coat and trowsers, however, he always makes a sorry 
 and contemptible figure. They never fit well, the 
 pantaloons hang in bags below the knee, whilst they 
 are tight upon the thighs — ^the waistband binds like a 
 cord, whilst the seat and front emulate the discarded 
 petticoat trowsers of the old regime. 
 
 It is no better with the coat, which, upon officers 
 civil and military, is always a frock. They button it 
 close under the chin as tight as a halter, and leave the 
 rest open to flutter in the wind. It is always loose, 
 and in wrinkles on the shoulders and back. Vests and 
 cravats are not so commonly worn, and stockings are 
 pretty much confined to ultra reformers and exquisites. 
 
279 
 
 \ 
 
 Turkish Gait. 
 
 , Add to all these borrowed deformities, the clum- 
 sy, shuffling gait, which is universal. The Turk, man 
 and woman, shoves liis feet along the pavement instead 
 of lifting them up lightly as he walks. This arises 
 from wearing slippers or shoes down at the heel, which 
 is common with the men, and with the other sex uni- 
 versal. If a Turk puts on a pair of boots, he alvvays 
 wears over them slippers, which may be put off on en- 
 tering a house or mosque. This slipper consists of a 
 sole, and merely a covering for the toes, by which, 
 with care and difficulty, it is retained upon the foot. 
 From this results the awkward, embarrassed move- 
 ment, which is observable in all. A company of - 
 Turkish gentlemen or ladies walk as slowly as a fune- 
 ral procession, and with a fumbling, measured pace, 
 which reminds one of horses turned out to graze in 
 fetters. It may result from the same cause, that they 
 turn their toes in instead of out in walking. I am 
 more inclined, however, to attribute this peculiarity to 
 the universal habit of sitting cross-legged, or of posi- 
 tively sitting upon their feet and ancles, upon which a 
 Turk contrives to instal himself in regular form, as a 
 Frank does upon a cushion. Such unnatural postures, 
 begun in early childhood, can hardly fail of producing 
 a degree of distortion in the limbs as well as of pre- 
 venting natural and graceful motion. 
 
 These observations may be just or otherwise, but it 
 is evident to me that a Turk in the Nazarene costume, 
 as it is here called, is a much less handsome and noble 
 animal than the American or European. His shoul- 
 
280 
 
 Turkish Figure. 
 
 (lers are narrow and badly set. lie is disproportion- 
 ately large in tbe girth, seeming commonly inclined to 
 corpulency ; the calves of his legs are small and ill- 
 formed, and his feet and ancles, probably from their 
 ungainly action, appear more or less distorted. 
 
CHAPTER XXXV. 
 
 DANCING DERVISES. 
 
 On my return from this expedition, I stopped in 
 Pera, just opposite the great cemetery of Galata, to 
 witness the religious services of a Mohammedan sect, 
 known as the Dancing Dervises. They have a hand- 
 some mosque and extensive apartments devoted to their 
 use; while a number of sumptuous monuments and 
 tombs in a cemetery, forming a part of the same prem- 
 ises, give evidence of their wealth and respectability. 
 Having passed through the gate, which opens upon a 
 very public street, we walked through an ample paved 
 court, adjoining which is a garden, planted with shrubs 
 and trees. From this court, by a second door, we 
 entered the area which was already occupied by the 
 performers in the scene we had come to witness. 
 
 It is a large hall, in the form of an octagon, with 
 a railing on two sides, separating the space next the 
 doors assigned to spectators from the large area devot- 
 ed to the religious exercises. There were about twen- 
 ty-five dervises present. They wore a very high, cap, 
 in the form of a sugar-loaf, without any brim. It was 
 of a light gray color, and, I thought, made of wool. 
 
282 
 
 Dancing Dervises. 
 
 like tlie body of a liat. Tiieir dress consisted of a. close 
 jacket of white cotton, and a broad petticoat of the 
 same color and material, Avhich was so long as to trail 
 by several inches on the ground. A pair of slippers 
 became visible when they lifted up these ample folds 
 to move the feet. Over all each wore a dark cloak. 
 
 They were standing in a circle round the railing, 
 and upon a signal given by their chief, whose costume 
 differed in nothing from the rest but in an immense 
 green turban, which he wore over his sugar-loaf cap, 
 they began to move and follow him in single file, and 
 at a pace indescribably slow, around the area. On the 
 eastern side of the octagon, the point nearest to Mecca, 
 lay a scarlet fleece on the pavement. Upon approach- 
 ing this, each bowed slowly and profoundly, bringing 
 his head almost to the pavement. Having passed it in 
 front, he turned and repeated the same ceremony, and 
 then continued his round. 
 
 Some instruments of music, which I was unable to 
 see, struck up a lifeless, drawling tune at the com- 
 mencement of this almost stationary promenade. It 
 grew quicker by imperceptible degrees, and the pageant 
 moved with a corresponding increase of celerity, though 
 never I think so rapidly as a quarter of a mile the hour. 
 Tliis solemn procession around the area was made, I 
 think, three times, when the chief, taking his stand at 
 the scarlet fleece, clapped his hands as a sign for be- 
 ginning the dance — the music at the same time play- 
 ing a more lively air. Upon this, the dervises, as they 
 successively approached their leader, bowed reverently 
 to him, kissed his hand, and whirled off into the dance. 
 
Dancing D e r v i s e s. 
 
 283 
 
 They disencumbered themselves of their cloaks and 
 slippers, and commenced turning from left to right, at 
 first slowly, but gradually increased the velocity of their 
 motion, until they whirled like the spinning of a top. 
 Their long petticoats became inflated with air, forming 
 a cone six feet in diameter at its base. The arms, at 
 first crossed upon the breast, Tvere soon stretched out 
 horizontally and at full length, forming with the body 
 a perfect cross. The eyes, half closed in reverie, and 
 the face, were turned upward, and the giddy perform- 
 er seemed lost, as no doubt he was, to all earthly 
 things and thoughts. 
 
 They continued these gyrations without intermission 
 for about fifteen minntes, and the grace and regularity 
 of their whirl, together with its amazing velocity, are 
 really wonderful. At length, a signal was given by 
 clapping the hands, when the dance stopped, apparent- 
 ly to allow the performers a few minutes of repose. It 
 soon recommenced as before, and I was informed that 
 two hours are passed in repetitions of the same exer- 
 cises. There is nothing painful or disgusting in wit- 
 nessing this spectacle, as there is in looking on the per- 
 formances of the Howling Dervises. The men are 
 cleanlj^ and well dressed. The Sultan often patronizes 
 this set by his presence, a circumstance which has led 
 to evident improvements in their personal appearance, 
 as well as their premises. 
 
CHAPTER XXXVI. 
 
 THE GOLDEN HORN. 
 
 Between three and four o’clock, I set out in com- 
 pany with my kind host and hostess, Mr. and Mrs. 
 Hamlin, to visit the Valley of Sweet Waters, at the 
 head of the Golden Horn. The point at which these ex- 
 cursions usually terminate, where we went on shore, is 
 perhaps seven miles, fr^m Topana, where we embark- 
 ed. Good boats of two and three pairs of oars are al- 
 ways to be had here, whereas at Galata they have not 
 usually more than one pair, being used chiefly for trans- 
 porting passengers across the harbor to Constantinople. 
 The longer transit of the Bosphorus is sometimes, 
 though seldom, made in these small caiques, whilst in 
 excursions up the Bosphorus to the Seven Towers, the 
 Valley of Sweet Waters, &c., boats of two or three 
 pairs of oars are almost invariably employed. They 
 move with greater rapidity, and are more agreeable as 
 well as safer. 
 
 The established fare in a small caique from Galata 
 to Constantinople, is half a piastre. An excursion of 
 seven or eight miles in a four-oared boat costs from 
 twelve to fifteen piastres. The charge for the same 
 
285 
 
 New Steamboats. 
 
 boat to Scutari is three piastres. The stranger should 
 make himself acquainted with the established prices, 
 especially for the shorter ferriages, and without mak- 
 ing any inquiries or stipulations with the boatmen, 
 should lay the amount upon the deck, or give it to the 
 man at the time of his debarkation, but not before. 
 In this way he will commonly shun all difficulty and 
 altercation. Should he ask the price of the watermen, 
 or offer two or three times the customary fare, he is 
 taken for a stranger, and the most exorbitant demands 
 are made upon him. In one instance, a boatman to 
 whom we had incautiously given five piastres instead 
 of three, his legal fare, seized our effects, and clamor- 
 ously refused to let them go without the payment of 
 fifteen piastres. These boatmen are nearly all Turks, 
 and though very expert in their profession, they are 
 certainly as great rogues as any of the craft with whom 
 I have happened to have intercourse. 
 
 In my way up the Golden Horn, I had another op- 
 portunity of admiring the fine naval architecture of 
 Mr. Ehodes. We passed between two steamboats 
 moored in front of the navy yard, built by this gentle- 
 man for the late Sultan. The smaller was constructed 
 for his personal use, to make short excursions on the 
 Bosphorus and elsewhere. It has the most perfect 
 symmetry of form, and the finish is admirable. The 
 whole exterior is polished like a mirror, and reflects 
 the moving boats and other objects around it. It is 
 richly adorned with gilding, but all in a chaste and 
 sober style, without any of the tawdriness usually ex- 
 hibited in oriental workmanship. 
 
286 Hiad of the Golden Horn. 
 
 The other boat is larger, being designed for longer 
 voyages, and though less elaborately finished, it pos- 
 sesses similar excelleneies of model and construetion.'^ 
 It is remarkable that this beautiful new ship is under- 
 going repairs and alterations. The persons who have 
 been so fortunate as to sueceed Mr. Ehodes, are obliged, 
 for the sake of cousisteney, to make some praetical 
 demonstration of their sincerity in charging that gen- 
 tleman with incompetency as a naval architect. 
 
 The head of the Golden Horn is bounded by an ex- 
 panse of flat, alluvial meadows, through which the 
 small river Lycus discharges its waters by several 
 mouths. About a mile high up the stream, the valley 
 is contracted into an inconsiderable breadth, and the 
 lofty hills approaching on each side to within a few 
 yards of the Lycus, and conforming their direction to 
 its numerous sinuosities, swelling at the same time into 
 a great variety of graceful slopes and elevations, con- 
 stitute altogether a very picturesque scene. New and 
 ever varying views are constantly opening upon the 
 eye as you advance, not unlike the succession of pic- 
 tures sometimes seen in cosmoramic exhibitions. 
 
 These beautiful hills are not wooded, and the same 
 may be said of the valley, with the exception of some 
 small, unpromising trees, which seem to have been 
 planted and then left to their fate. A little labor and 
 expense would make this one of the most enchanting 
 spots in the world, an unpleasant reflection, which is 
 
 * In 1862 , steam navigation increased greatly at Constantinople. 
 More than twenty steamers were then plying daily in the Bospho- 
 rus and the Sea of ilanuoru. 
 
Valley of Sweet Waters. 287 
 
 constantly rising in the mind of the stranger, as he 
 contemplates the inexhaustible variety of beautiful 
 sites and prospects which nature has lavished upon 
 Constantinople and its environs. 
 
 At the distance of perhaps five miles from the city, 
 we j)assed a handsome kiosk close to the right bank 
 of the river. I was told it belonged to a pasha, as in- 
 deed one never sees a tasteful well-kept house in town 
 or country, which does not belong either to the Sultan 
 or to some of his officers. Others are too poor, too un- 
 cultivated, or too cautious to aspire to these elegancies. 
 W e landed opposite to a guard-house, where a few sol- 
 diers are stationed to preserve order amongst the visit- 
 ors of all classes who throng these gTounds upon every 
 fair day. 
 
 The valley here expands into a broader plain, still 
 bounded by lofty hills. A large number of noble 
 spreading trees afford shade to the groups who come 
 here to breathe country air, as well as to the smaller ^ 
 number, who may have a taste for the more active 
 pleasure of promenading. There are some mean-look- 
 ing coffee-houses, at a little distance from which, chairs 
 and the usual refreshments are brought by servants, 
 who approach you with a profusion of salams and 
 other solemn formalities, which pertain to Turkish 
 etiquette. 
 
 A few rods higher up the river is a kiosk, or sum- 
 mer palace, belonging to the Saltan. It is in the 
 midst of an extensive lawn, which is surrounded with 
 a ruinous fence and long rows of very fine trees. A 
 little above the palace, a dam is thrown across the 
 
288 
 
 Eoyal Palaces, 
 
 river, now nearly dry, which forms, when there is 
 water, a pretty fantastic cascade. The dam, like every- 
 thing upon the premises, is dilapidated. The marble 
 blocks, of which it is constructed, are broken or dis- 
 placed, and the gingerbread work, designed, I suppose, 
 to produce a play of cross currents and jets for the 
 amusement of the Sultan’s women and children, is 
 nearly demolished. The kiosk is badly built of lath 
 and plaster and wood. It is of a faded yellow color, 
 and in a very ruinous condition. The Sultans display 
 great taste and magnificence in their palaces, but they 
 are veritable Turks after all, repairing nothing and 
 building always in the slightest manner. 
 
 If the sovereign takes a fancy to a particular resi- 
 dence, it is fitted up, or more properly rebuilt with 
 lath and plaster or clapboards, and the whole gaudily 
 decorated with, paint and gilding. In the meantime 
 all other royal edifices are neglected, and in a few 
 years become utterly ruined, until a new caprice in the 
 Sultan, or the accession of a successor, chances to visit 
 them with the renovating process. This barbarous 
 and cliildish policy has the double disadvantage of be- 
 ing the most expensive, and of always keeping the roy- 
 al palaces in such a mean and shabby condition as to 
 be a disgrace to the nation. In a well-governed coun- 
 try three-fourths of them would be sold or pulled 
 down, and in a civilized one the rest would be kept in 
 repair. 
 
 My attention was called, on our return to the city, 
 to a great number of small marble columns scattered 
 over the slopes and summits of the hills that rise on 
 
H A S K R A. 
 
 289 
 
 either side of the valley. These monuments mark the 
 spots where the arrows of the Sultans have fallen when 
 they were pleased to amuse themselves with archery. 
 The late Sultan Mahmoud is said to have been passion- 
 ately fond of this diversion, and to have prided him- 
 self much upon his skill in drawing the bow. None 
 of his courtiers or generals were able to compete with 
 him in this exercise. They were probably too prudent 
 and courtly to attempt it. 
 
 An American gentleman, who happened to be near 
 on one occasion, when Mahmoud was engaged in his 
 favorite amusement, sent to ask him for one of the ar- 
 rows which had been honored by having been sent 
 from his matchless bow. The Sultan, evidently grati- 
 fied at the request, as a courtly compliment from an 
 unusual quarter, gave the necessary orders for comply- 
 ing with it. The enchanted arrow, however, in its way 
 to the favored stranger, had to pass through so many 
 hands, each of whom must of course be rewarded with 
 a handsome gratuity, that it turned out to be rather an 
 expensive favor. 
 
 The beautiful village of Haskra, which is near the 
 head of the Golden Horn, on its north side, is properly 
 a suburb of Galata, forming a part of the vast city, 
 which, under the various names of Pera, Galata, To- 
 pana, &c., stretches for several miles along this side of 
 the harbor, and is only inferior to Constantinople it- 
 self in its lovely and commanding situation. Many 
 respectable and wealthy Armenian families have their 
 residence here. Their principal church, which is a fine 
 substantial edifice, occupying rather a favorable site, 
 
 13 
 
 k 
 
290 Armenian Church. 
 
 lias an anecdote connected with its recent history, illus- 
 trative of the temper of Mohammedanism, as well as of 
 the policy adopted by the late Sultan and pursued by 
 his successor. 
 
 As the church advanced towards completion, the 
 bigoted moulahs in the neighborhood were chagrined 
 by its respectable style, and, above all, by its command- 
 ing position, which made it a conspicuous object from 
 the harbor, and even from a considerable part of Con- 
 stantinople. They accordingly applied to the Sultan 
 for a firman to forbid the further prosecution of the 
 work upon the original plan, and to restrict the height 
 of the church edifice so that it should not rise above 
 the neighboring house, to wound the eyes of the faith- 
 ful. Indignant at the spirit of intolerance and oppress- 
 ion which led to this application, the Sultan directed 
 the Armenians to enlarge their plan, and erect an ad- 
 ditional story. It is in consequence of this order 
 that the new church is one of the most respectable 
 and conspicuous buildings in this part of the city. 
 
 This village was lately the site of a flourishing Ar- 
 menian school, which had at one time as many as five 
 or six hundred pupils. It was established by a rich 
 banker for the benefit of his people, and taught by an 
 intelligent and pious young man, both acting under 
 the good impulses which they had received from the 
 labors of the missionaries of the American Board of 
 Commisiioners for Foreign Missions. In the persecu- 
 tion which subsequently arose, the banker, after resist- 
 ing many attempts to break up this excellent establish- 
 ment, ultimately became discouraged or intimidated. 
 
Mosque of Eyoub. 291 
 
 The pious teacher was sent into banishment, from 
 which he has just obtained permission to return. 
 
 The mosque of Eyoub, which, with the grounds 
 around it, is much resorted to by the Turks for devo- 
 tion, relaxation, and pleasure, is situated upon the 
 Golden Horn, only a short distance from the western 
 wall of the city. We spent a few minutes in examin- 
 ing the interesting objects in this locality. The mosque 
 has nothing worthy of special attention, being inferior 
 in its dimensions, architecture, and decorations to many 
 others in different parts of Constantinople and its vicin- 
 ity. It possesses, however, in the eyes of Mussulmen 
 a peculiar sanctity, partly from its having been conse- 
 crated by its founder, Mahomet II., to the memory of 
 Eyoub, who has a sort of fabulous reputation both as a 
 warrior and prophet, and partly from its being the 
 mosque in which all the Sidtans are girded by the 
 Mufti with the sword of state, a ceremony which an- 
 swers to the ceremonial of a coronation in other coun- 
 tries. 
 
 Christians are not allowed to enter the court of this 
 mosque, a privilege allowed them in all others in the 
 city. We looked above the heads of the disorderly 
 crowd of boys who rushed to the gate to forbid our 
 entrance, and saw some magnificent plane-trees, which 
 spread their deep refreshing shade over the greatest 
 part of the enclosure, adding not a little to our desire 
 to tread upon the holy ground. The space between 
 the landing-plaee and the mosque is occupied with 
 tombs. One, where a Sultan and his family repose, is 
 of peculiar richness and beauty. In form it resembles 
 
292 
 
 ' The Sultan’s Tomb. 
 
 the other royal tombs. It is of white marble, and 
 is hung with rare and beautiful shawls. ^It is sup- 
 plied with costly lamps and other rich ornaments of 
 gold, all kept fresh and clean, so as to appear like a 
 new erection. The Turkish fashion of endowing 
 tombs as perpetual places of prayer, and of commit- 
 ting them to the care of persons who derive their sub- 
 sistence from this appointment, is admirably adapted 
 to preserve them from the neglect and ruin which 
 speedily, almost universally, befall the cemeteries of 
 even the most opulent and powerful in other parts of 
 the world. Whether the object is worth the expense 
 incurred in attaining it, or is even desirable, is another 
 question. 
 
 There are many single monuments, erected over the 
 graves of distinguished persons, of great sumptuousness 
 and beauty, and they seem to be preserved with the 
 same care as the royal tomb, from which they are only 
 a few steps removed. On the opposite side of the way, 
 for here is a street of tombs, is that of a child of Ilallil 
 Pasha, son-in-law to the late Sultan, and brother-in-law 
 to the present. It is a fine structure, and was probably 
 built for a family tomb. The pasha has within a few 
 weeks or months fallen into disgrace, and it is a strik- 
 ing evidence of the speed and relentlessness with which 
 justice or vengeance, as the case may be, overwhelms 
 the condemned in Turkey, that the grave of this young 
 prince of the blood royal, has been already despoiled 
 of all its costly ornaments. Close to the water is an 
 extensive coffee-house, thus completing the tout ensem- 
 ble of all that a Turk most desires in this world — a 
 
A Blighted Enterprise. 293 
 
 mosque, a well-sliaded cemetery, and facilities for 
 smoking his chibouk and drinking coffee. 
 
 I have inadvertently omitted one more object neces- 
 sary to the perfection of the Mohammedan Eden — a 
 sumptuous fountain, built of white marble, and glitter- 
 ing in the sun with a profusion of gilding, which stands 
 at a little distance from the Sultan’s tomb. 
 
 In prosecuting our homeward voyage, we passed a 
 boiler and some other fragments of a steamboat, lying 
 neglected upon the shore. An enterprising Armenian, 
 possessed of some wealth, attempted to build a steam- 
 boat for the conveyance of passengers or merchandise. 
 Through want of skill or some other defect, his first 
 essay failed, but, not discouraged by one failure, he 
 soon set about constructing a second, hoping to profit 
 by his former mistakes. His enterprise was arrested 
 at this stage by the government, and a heavy fine im- 
 posed upon the unfortunate undertaker in addition to 
 his heavy losses. The pasha, by whose department 
 this affair Vas cognizable, alleged as the ground of his 
 interference, that the man was foolishly squandering 
 money, which, through the medium of taxation, might 
 be .useful to the state. This is a truly Turkish method 
 of encouraging native talent and enterprise. The poor 
 Armenian seems to have been too much disheartened 
 even to gather up the fragments of his disastrous un- 
 dertaking, which still strew the shore. 
 
June 27tli. I passed over to Constantinople tliis 
 morning at an early honr to visit a few interesting 
 places, wliicli, in my previous excursions in tlie city, I 
 had, from want of time, or some other cause, been un- 
 able to reach. The slave market, which was my prin- 
 cipal object, I had once or twice found closed, and, as' 
 a good deal of difficulty is often experienced in obtain- 
 ing admission here, I was accpmpanied by one of the 
 janissaries, or cafasses (as they are called since the fall 
 of that military band), attached to the service of the 
 American embassy, who was kindly furnished by Mr. 
 Brown, the secretary of legation. They are a species 
 of executive officer, employed by all the consulates and 
 embassies in the Levant. They wear arms and possess 
 certain powers and privileges, with the nature and ex- 
 tent of which I am not well acquainted. Access is 
 readily given them to several places closed against the 
 more unattended strangers, and their lordly blustering 
 is of signal efficacy in opening one’s way through a 
 crowd. 
 
 I passed' through the Egyptian Bazai as the great 
 
Egyptian Bazar. 
 
 295 
 
 wholesale mart for drugs and medicines is called. I 
 do not know the reason which led to the adoption of 
 the name. It was, perhaps, applied to this bazar when 
 Alexandria, or Cairo, was the great emporium from 
 which medicines, as well as every other species of mer- 
 chandise were brought. This is a very extensive 
 establishment, apparently well supplied with all the 
 variety of articles belonging to this branch of trade. 
 
 It is kept almost exclusively by Turks. I saw only 
 two or three Armenians here, and not one Jew, an- ' 
 other curious example of the appropriation of certain 
 branches of business by particular races. 
 
 Like the other bazars, this long street of shops is 
 covered above, and as it is not ventilated, the atmo- 
 sphere is strongly impregnated with an infinite variety 
 of perfumes and odors. My head soon became un- 
 pleasantly sensible to their influence, and I should im- 
 agine that persons constantly employed here would be 
 liable to very serious injury. The Egyptian bazar is 
 only a few rods from the northern wall of the city, and 
 nearer the harbor than any other of these great mer- 
 cantile establishments. The slave market, on the con- 
 trary, is, I believe, the most remote from the harbor, 
 being situated south of the ridge, which divides the 
 city into two nearly equal inclined planes. No objec- 
 tion was made to our entering this mart of human 
 beings, nor did I perceive any sentinels stationed near 
 the gates or the streets leading to them. 
 
 It is an irregular quadrangle, approached by several 
 narrow streets, which are closed by gates. A deep 
 gallery, one story high, runs around this enclosure 
 
296 
 
 The Slave Market. 
 
 with a row of stalls, or small, badly lighted rooms in 
 the rear. A noble building, provided with a similar 
 gallery, stands within the area, which is partially paved 
 in the prevailing style of Constantinople. 
 
 The slaves, of whom, I should conjecture, four or 
 five hundred were exhibited to-day in the market, were 
 almost exclusively black girls from nine to ten or six- 
 teen years of age. Their complexion, their wooly 
 heads, and general physiognomy, mark them indubit- 
 ably as negroes, though their lips are not so thick, nor 
 their noses so short and blunt, as those of the African 
 race we are so accustomed to see in America. They 
 are a good deal darker than the slaves I saw in the 
 Cairo market, and have evidently been brought from 
 a different latitude. Upon the whole, I should say 
 they are a handsomer and more intelligent looking race 
 than the Africans brought to the United States, or the 
 first generation of their descendants. 
 
 Their dress was very similar to that most commonly 
 worn in the field by female slaves in America — a long 
 gown or robe of coarse white cotton stuff, and a parti- 
 colored or red handkerchief rather tastefully tied upon 
 the head. Several had the hair elaborately plaited, 
 and all, or nearly all, wore large and showy finger- 
 rings, ear-rings, beads, and bracelets. These trinkets 
 were of various metals, and of rude workmanship. 
 Some were evidently of gold. 
 
 The larger number of these girls were seated upon 
 mats spread upon the ground, just in front of the gal- 
 leries — a situation which gave free access to the buyers 
 and sellers. A considerable number were seated upon 
 
The Slave Market. 297 
 
 a sort of counter under the back part of the gallery, 
 the front of which was furnished with a similar coun- 
 ter, on which were many Turks smoking and drinking 
 coffee, at the same time that they occasionally survey- 
 ed the slaves thus arranged in rows on either side of 
 their divan, in a situation most favorable for inspection. 
 These Turks I took to be buyers, who were prosecut- 
 ing the business leisurely, according to their custom, 
 indulging in the meantime in their indispensable lux- 
 uries. 
 
 Several of the dark rooms in the rear of the gallery 
 were occupied by girls dressed in a su^Derior style, and 
 veiled, with. the exception of the nose and eyes, in the 
 Turkish manner. They had been selected from the 
 vulgar herd for their superior beauty and accomplish- 
 ments, and, being candidates for a higher destiny, were 
 more expensively attked, and more carefully guarded 
 from the approach and gaze of the crowd. I saw no- 
 thing indelicate or offensive in the negotiations between 
 buyer and seller. The most active agents were elderly 
 Turkish women, who passed amongst the slaves, mak- 
 ing inquiries, and examining their forms and features. 
 In one instance, a gentlemanly looking Turk conduct- 
 ed the investigation in person, but he did no more 
 than cause the girl, who was pretty, and might be four- 
 teen years of age, to stand on her feet that he might 
 have a view of her stature and form. He also felt her 
 arms and shoulders. She appeared confused, but, upon 
 the whole, pleased with the attention. 
 
 I observed amongst the owners a black man of a 
 singularly noble aspect and bearing. He was very tall 
 
298 
 
 The Slave Market. 
 
 and perfectly formed. His venerable beard descended 
 upon bis bosom. His forehead was highly intellectual, 
 and his eye l)lack and piercing. He wore a large 
 white turban, and a rich flowing robe of purple silk. 
 His broad scarlet girdle was very splendid, and his 
 sword and pistols, elaborately inlaid and mounted 
 with gold, must have cost a very large sum. I never 
 saw so fine a looking black man, and I felt regret that 
 one should be engaged in so odious a traffic, whose 
 lofty attributes seemed to mark him as fitted to be the 
 prince and benefactor of his people. 
 
 I was much struck with the universal cheerfulness 
 of the slaves. Amongst them all I did not observe a 
 single care-stricken or sorrowful countenance. They 
 seemed desirous of attracting attention, and put on 
 their smiles whenever they saw a person approach who 
 was likely to become a purchaser. Of an age which 
 forgets all the past, and looks upon the future through 
 the medium of delusive hope, they seem elated at their 
 condition and prospects, and evidently consider their 
 removal from the wild and savage scenes of their na- 
 tive land to a great and splendid metropolis as a piece 
 of great good fortune, which places them in the way 
 of the highest promotion. These girls are not usually 
 kidnapped, but voluntarily sold by their parents, who 
 train them for this destination, and probably think 
 tliat by selling their daughters to become waiting-maids 
 or concubines in the rich families of Turkey, they 
 make the best provision for their happiness. 
 
 These -views are of course inculcated upon their chil- 
 dren, who are taught to look upon the day when they 
 
Oriental Slavery. 
 
 299 
 
 are sold as the beginning of a more brilliant era. Nor 
 are these expectations always, or perhaps usually dis- 
 appointed. Slavery in Turkey and the East, is a very 
 different thing from that of the West Indies and the 
 United States. The Africans become, almost without 
 exception, in-door servants in rich families, where they 
 perform little severe labor, and are rather kept for play 
 than use. According to .the universal testimony of 
 persons acquainted with Turkish habits, which I have 
 had man}^ opportunities of verifying by what I have 
 seen in steamboats and elsewhere, the slaves are treated 
 with great kindness, and even indulgence — ^rather as 
 equals than as bondmen. They are well clad, eat the 
 same food with their owflers, and always approach 
 them with an air of freedom and familiarity quite in- 
 consistent with habitual oppression and hardship. 
 
 Manumission is favored by the religion and laws of 
 the country, as well as by custom, and it is so common 
 in practice, that there are comparatively very few hered- 
 itary slaves. When in addition to this it is considered 
 that the rich Turks often choose their wives and con- 
 cubines in the slave market, that the birth of a child 
 makes the mother free, whilst the child of a concubine 
 is entitled to the same rights as that of a wife, it will 
 be perceived that the servile state in these regions is 
 attended with many alleviations, and that it is not 
 without some good reason that the unreflecting aspi- 
 rants to so much possible and not very improbable 
 good fortune, appear cheerful and contented with their 
 destiny. It is highly credible that in a majority of 
 cases, slavery under these circumstances proves a boon. 
 
300 Oriental Slavery. 
 
 It is only in more civilized countries, wliere the de- 
 mand for expensive luxuries, the pursuits of industry, 
 and the commercial spirit always seek to organize and 
 strenuously employ the jDhysical energies of society, 
 for the attainment of their objects, that the condition 
 of slavery is liable to become less favorable to happi- 
 ness, than a state of rude barbarian freedom, such as is 
 enjoyed amongst the African tribes. 
 
 There were no white slaves in the market, and I was 
 informed that none are ever exhibited here. They are 
 kept by the dealers — almost always Jews — at their pri- 
 vate houses, where they are instructed in such accom- 
 plishments as are likely to be valued in the harem, and 
 of course increase their price. This course of education 
 commonly embraces singing and dancing, and scarce- 
 ly ever the less useful arts of reading and writing. 
 To these private depots the rich sensual Turk, who 
 has resolved to add to the attractions of his harem, or 
 more commonly some discreet female friend, proceeds 
 to examine the merchandise and effect the purchase. 
 Very high prices are often paid for this class of slaves, 
 who are mostly from Circassia and Georgia. From one 
 to two thousand dollars is not an uncommon amount 
 to be paid for a girl. The blacks seldom command 
 above one hundred and fifty dollars, and are frequently 
 sold for seventy or eighty dollars. 
 
 In returning from the slave mart, we passed through 
 the bazar devoted to the sale of arms. The Turks are 
 peculiarly fond of highly-mounted swords and fire-arms, 
 and they indulge in the utmost extravagance in the 
 purchase of them. A scimitar often costs several thou- 
 
Splendid Bazars. 
 
 801 
 
 sand piastres, and a double-barrelled gun much more. 
 The display of these articles in the bazar was imposing 
 and liighly curious. Damascus blades, though they 
 seem to have lost a measure of their former reputation, 
 are still highly appreciated, and, to my unpractised 
 eye, these, as well as the gun-barrels made in the same 
 place, were the handsomest as well as the best in the 
 market. Immense expense is lavished upon the hilts 
 and scabbards of the various descriptions of side-arms 
 here exhibited, and the belts were often covered with 
 gold and precious stones. 
 
 In viewing several of the splendid bazars of Con- 
 stantinople, which are certainly more dazzling and 
 magnificent than anything I have seen elsewhere, one 
 is apt to imagine himself in the capital of the most 
 wealthy and luxurious people in the world. Yet it is 
 only in a few articles that a Turk indulges or can afibrd 
 to indulge in great expense. He must have a rich 
 carpet of the size of a table-cloth — an amber mouth- 
 piece for his chibouk — gorgeous saddle and trappings 
 for his horse, and, if a military man, splendid arms. 
 These, with a showy dress, and some embroidered slip- 
 pers and muslins, for his harem, seem to comprehend 
 all that is greatly expensive. 
 
 He feeds on bread and fruit, drinks no costly wines, 
 and has no carriages, and the most expensive items in 
 the expenditures of an American or European are 
 scarcely known to him by name. 
 
CHAPTER XXXVIII. 
 
 EXCURSION ON THE PROPONTIS 
 
 In the afternoon I made a boat excursion with Mr. 
 Hamlin to the Seven Towers, crossing from Topana 
 directly to Seraglio Point, and coasting along the Sea 
 of ]\Iarmora, under the southern wall of the city to its 
 ' west extent. The whole distance is about seven miles. 
 I never look upon the seraglio from a new point of 
 view without being more and more impressed with the 
 unparalelled advantages of its situation. Washed on 
 three sides b;y the sea, with the most perfect enjoy- 
 ment of its pure, healthful breezes, and yet in the 
 heart of an immense capital, commanding the most de- 
 lightful views of the beautiful cities of Pera and Scu- 
 tari, together with an interminable prospect of water, 
 and noble mountain scenery, with ample space for gar- 
 dens, lawn and grove, this spot unites in perfection all 
 that could make a royal residence attractive. Yet this 
 palace was quite neglected, and even detested by the 
 late Sultan. Perhaps his aversion grew out of the 
 tragic scenes enacted here during the earlier and less 
 fortunate part of his reign. 
 
 Just over one of the entrances to the seraglio, near 
 
Gate of Death. 
 
 803 
 
 the Golden Horn, is seen a grotesque and semi-barbar- 
 ous display of some immense bones said to belong to 
 a whale. The Turks believe them to be the skeleton 
 of a giant some way connected in his fate with their 
 early history, and it is perhaps in deference to this su- 
 perstition that this uncouth exhibition is tolerated in a 
 place so little suitable to it. The navigation round 
 this point is rendered difficult by the strong current 
 with which the Bosphorus pours its immense volume 
 of water against this barrier. The agitation may have 
 been greater than usual to-day, -aided as it was by a 
 strong north wind. The mass of waters labored, and 
 swelled, and chafed the shore, and, over a surface of 
 many acres, bubbled like a boiling pot. Boats are car- 
 ried down by the current with great velocity, and care 
 is requisite to avoid being dashed upon the Point. 
 The rowers in ascending the stream are aided by men 
 on the shore, who tow boats for the distance of about 
 a quarter of a mile. The shore is faced here by a wall 
 of substantial masonry, the massive stones of which are 
 fastened together with iron clamps. A range of build- 
 ings, forming a part of the palace of the seraglio, oc- 
 cupies a site close to the water, and along the eastern 
 extremity of this immense enclosure. They have, as 
 seen from the water, a light and agreeable appearance, 
 and are admirably situated to enjoy the full advantage 
 of the breezes that every day blow over this point 
 from the Euxine or the Sea of Marmora. 
 
 A little farther south, on this side of the seraglio, is 
 the gate through which persons condemned, or suspect- 
 ed of crime against the State, are conveyed, to be thrown 
 
304 
 
 Oriental Barbarity. 
 
 into the Bosphorus. Death by the bow-string, and a 
 grave in the deep dark waters, may be said to have 
 been the common fate of Turkish viziers and states- 
 men, who have been so unfortunate as to become dis- 
 tinguished by their talents and wealth. Many inmates 
 of the harem, who have incurred by any means the 
 suspicion or the displeasure of their capricious lord, 
 have been put in sacks, and made to expiate their of- 
 fences or misfortunes in the same dark abyss. A num- 
 ber of mutes, maintained as spies in every part of the 
 palace, and present at every interview and conversa- 
 tion which takes place within its walls, are employed 
 as executioners. Upon an intimation given by the 
 Sultan, these messengers of death proceed to the pres- 
 ence of the doomed victim, — to whom their approach 
 probably conveys the first apprehension of danger, or 
 even of a loss of the royal favor, — strangle him with a 
 bow-string, and then cast the body, laden with weights, 
 into the sea. No announcement is made of the fact, 
 and it is only the mysterious and sudden disappearance 
 of the victim that communicates to the world the sad 
 intelligence, to which the tongue of the boldest would 
 tremble to give utterance. 
 
 Philanthropy would rejoice to believe that these 
 atrocities, which so long disgraced the Turkish court, 
 have passed away with many other relics of barbarism. 
 It is known, on the contrary, that secret executions 
 were never more frequent than in the late reign. Dur- 
 ing his struggle with the janissaries, Mahmoud silently 
 prepared the way to the victory, which he finally 
 achieved by the secret destruction of their most able 
 
F I S H I N G-.H OUSE. 
 
 805 
 
 and popular officers. One after another, these leaders 
 of the turbulent band were clandestinely led to their 
 fate through the bye-ways of the seraglio, or conduct- 
 ed to some of the fortresses in the neighborhood of 
 Constantinople, from which they never returned. 
 
 It is understood, too, that the accession of the pres- 
 ent Sultan during the last year, was signalized by the 
 mysterious disappearance of individuals suspected of 
 evil sentiments or designs. For some time a fearful 
 suspense hung over public affairs, and it was doubtful 
 whether the partisans of reform or of the old regime 
 would triumph. When victory was finally declared 
 for the former, there is no reason to believe that they 
 used their success with any peculiar moderation. The 
 city was filled with dark rumors of secret executions, 
 and it was generally believed that the mute emissaries 
 of death in the seraglio were very actively engaged. 
 The excitement died away, as any excitement must, 
 depending on rumors which it is dangerous to repeat. 
 
 Near this gate of death, we passed a fishing-house, a 
 peculiar structure, seen, as far as I am aware, only in 
 the Bosphorus. Several long posts are set up in the 
 water at some distance from the shore, secured against 
 being carried away by the current, by cables stretched 
 in different directions. On these posts a hut is erected, 
 covered with mats or a light roof. Here a man is con- 
 stantly stationed to watch the approach of the shoals 
 of fish, and to give notice to his associates upon the 
 shore to draw their net, which is spread in a situation 
 to intercept their progress. A great many of these 
 houses are seen in passing up the Bosnhorus to Buyuk- 
 
306 
 
 Columns in the Wall. 
 
 dere and the Black Sea. The fishermen often take a 
 vast number of fish, which supply the markets of Con- 
 stantinople. 
 
 Another singular method of taking fish, much used 
 here, I have also seen at Smyrna and other parts of 
 Asia Minor. A brilliant light is kindled in a brazier 
 upon the prow of a boat, which is rowed to the proper 
 fishing grounds in the evening. The fish collect in 
 numbers around the boat, attracted by the blaze, and 
 are easily pierced with a spear. These boats have a 
 very picturesque appearance as they move in different 
 directions in a dark night, their blazing fires flashing 
 upon the water as they shift their course, or are tossed 
 by the gently swelling waves. 
 
 The walls of the city, on the side of the Sea of Mar- 
 mora, have a general resemblance to those on the north, 
 and west of the town. They, however, lack towers, 
 and give some other proofs of being the work of a dif- 
 ferent and later age. The most striking of these is the 
 great number of marble columns of various sizes, but 
 mostly small, which are seen built into the foundations, 
 all the way from Seraglio point to this western extrem- 
 ity, near the Seven Towers. I counted more than two 
 hundred of these columns, and think there cannot be 
 less than a thousand so employed. We should be led 
 to conclude that this part of the wall had been de- 
 stroyed by the violence of war, together with a large 
 portion of the public edifices of the city, and that in 
 the pressing urgency of the occasion, the precious and 
 costly materials of the latter had been used in the re- 
 construction of the indispensable public defences. 
 
Calico Factory. 
 
 307 
 
 I am not aware, however, that such a conclusion 
 finds any countenance in the history of Constantinople. 
 But for the employment of so many columns and pre- 
 cious fragments which have belonged to other edifices, 
 the want of uniformity with other parts of the wall 
 might be accounted for satisfactorily, by the constant 
 and powerful action of the Sea of Marmora in under- 
 mining this shore. Many parts of the wall have evi- 
 dently been destroyed by this cause. In several places, 
 it has lately been repaired or rebuilt, and in many more 
 it threatens a speedy fall. With some general confor- 
 mity in the materials and workmanship, the whole wall 
 for the distance of three or four miles, has the appear- 
 ance of a patcli-work made and mended at different 
 eras, and with various degrees of skill and care. The 
 difficulty of accounting for the profusion of wrought 
 and costly marbles* in the foundation remains to be 
 accounted for, and seems to refer to a reconstruction . 
 after some great and general destruction by war or the 
 elements. These fragments afford perhaps the most 
 striking evidence now in existence, of the number and 
 splendor of the beautiful edifices with which Constan- 
 tine adorned his new capital. 
 
 At the distance of perhaps two miles from Seraglio 
 point, we passed a large' establishment for printing cal- 
 icoes, which stands close to the water. It is owned 
 and conducted by Armenians. Many samples of these 
 goods were hanging in the open air for drying or some 
 other purpose. The figures and coloring are in a bet-, 
 ter and simpler taste than we should expect in an ori- 
 ental fabric. The calicoes seen in the bazars are far 
 
808 ' 
 
 Armenian Quarter. 
 
 more gaudy. In this neighborhood is a small harbor, 
 formed by an indentation in the shore and a sort of pier 
 made by throwing large stones into the sea, which is 
 here of no great depth. It seems to be occupied only 
 by boats and very small craft — all of a description very 
 inferior to those which frequent the Golden Horn. 
 This little harbor is probably not used in winter, and 
 it can afford no adequate shelter during the prevalence 
 of any but northerly winds. 
 
 Still farther in the same direction, we passed an ex- 
 tensive region of the city, desolated by fire during the 
 last year. A considerable number of houses have been 
 rebuilt — some are large and respectable in their appear- 
 ance, but all constructed of wood in the prevailing 
 fashion, providing fuel for another conflagration. This 
 is an Armenian quarter, and was the most wealthy and 
 respectable of the several cantons occupied by that peo- 
 ple in the city. The bankers and wealthy merchants 
 had their residence here. The region is recommended 
 by its facility of access, being approachable by boats, 
 without the necessity of passing the heart of the town. 
 The city wall, which elsewhere kee]3s close to the shore, 
 makes a detour here, returning to the edge of the water 
 after leaving a considerable district extra muros. This 
 was involved in the conflagration like the greater part 
 of the Armenian quarter. 
 
 An occurrence which happened during the fire in 
 this extra mural region affords rather an amusing illus- 
 tration of Turkish character. The people in their at- 
 tempts to secure their household goods from the flames, 
 brought them to a large open space in front of the gate. 
 
Turkish Obstinacy. 
 
 809 
 
 through which their secluded residence communicated 
 with the city. As this was considered the place which 
 afforded the gTeatest security, the accumulation in- 
 creased to such an extent as to prevent all access to 
 the gate. In the meantime the fire continued to rage, 
 and at length approached so near the immense combus- 
 tible mass, where the people had taken refuge, that the 
 heat as well as the danger became insupportable. 
 
 In attempting to escape for their lives, they perceived 
 with dismay their mistake in blocking up the only 
 thoroughfare by which a retreat was possible. The 
 only resource was a small door in the wall, which was 
 usually kept bolted on the inside, as it was found to be 
 on the present occasion. The key was fortunately 
 known to be in the hands of a Turk who occupied a 
 house close by in the city. The calls soon brought 
 him to the gate, which they requested him to open for 
 their escape. 
 
 To their utter consternation he refused, alleging the 
 strict orders he had received never to unlock this door, 
 but upon an express order from the pasha, who had 
 charge of this department of the public service. They 
 represented to him their desperate situation, their habi- 
 tations in a blaze, all otlier means of retreat cut off, 
 themselves hemmed in a corner, with the flames rap- 
 idly approaching^ — and the atmosphere already heated 
 to a temperature frightfully high. The Turk heard all 
 without emotion. He said he was sorry for their situ- 
 ation, which, however, had not been produced by any 
 fault of his. Ilis orders were positive, and he could 
 not and would not turn the key without the pcrniis- 
 
310 Summary Punishment. 
 
 sion of the j)?csha, advising them to send to his resi- 
 dence near the Seraglio, a distance of nearly two miles, 
 in order to obtain his consent to opening the door. 
 
 In these desperate circumstances, the sufferers having 
 found on the spot a large beam of timber, converted it 
 into a sort of battering-ram, with which they now de- 
 molished the door, but only just in time to save the 
 most exposed part of the crowd from perishing. They 
 were too deeply impressed with the demerits of the ob- 
 stinate porter to allow him to go unpunished. Some 
 who had escaped with the largest measure of strength 
 and spirit, seized the heartless villain and administered 
 the bastinado upon the spot. They immediately re- 
 ported what they had done to the pasha, who of course 
 approved of their conduct. 
 
 The Grand Yizier, and some other high officers of 
 government, with an appearance of concern for the 
 sufferers, not very often manifested towards Christians, 
 soon afterwards made their appearance, and attempted 
 to arrest the progress of the flames, and protect the 
 property and persons of- the sufferers. As usual on 
 such occasions, a crowd of thieves and pickpockets 
 were gathered and eager for prey. Two men who 
 were caught in the act of stealing the exposed prop- 
 erty, were, by order of the Grand Yizier, thrown into 
 a burning house and consumed. This is the terrible 
 and summary punishment usually inflicted by the 
 Turks on this class of malefactors. 
 
 "\Y e continued our agreeable excursion to the west 
 termination of the city, and returned a little before 
 sunset to Pera. I observed in returning some im- 
 
Accumulations of Rubbish. 311 
 
 ' mense accumulations of rubbish and filth, the sweep- 
 ings of the cityj which had been thrown into the sea, 
 and rose quite to the top of the wall. Instead of car- 
 rying these putrefying masses into the country to en- 
 rich the gardens and cornfields, everything is thrown 
 into the sea without any regard to the injury of the 
 harbor. No inconvenience seems to have been ex- 
 perienced as yet from this practice. It is thought by 
 many that the current of the Bosphorus acts even upon 
 the higher parts of the harbor, to sweep away all ac- 
 cumulations from its bottom and shores. The decay- 
 ing masses referred to are objectionable in another 
 point of view, as they emit an effluvium which taints 
 the air, for a considerable distance around them. 
 

 CHAPTER XXXIX. 
 
 ST. SOPHIA. 
 
 June 29th. By the politeness and persevering ef- 
 forts of Mr. Brown, Secretary to the American Em- 
 bassy, we obtained permission this morning to visit 
 St. Sophia and the other principal mosques. This 
 privilege is granted to foreigners only upon application 
 made by some .ambassador to the Turkish Secretary of 
 State for foreign affairs. The government, it is said, 
 manifests no unwillingness to gratify the curiosity of 
 strangers with a site of their religious edifices, but they 
 contrive to make the favor too expensive as well as too 
 difficult of attainment, to be frequently sought. Our 
 firman cost about forty dollars, paid in fees to the dif- 
 ferent parties and guardians of the edifices which are 
 visited, and to three or four attendants from one of the 
 public offices, by whom we were accompanied. Mr. 
 Brown, who speaks Turkish, and several other Ameri- 
 cans, gentlemen and ladies, resident in Constantinople, 
 were so obliging as to be of our party, which was 
 swelled into a crowd by strangers of different nations, 
 who usually take advantage of the issuing of a firman. 
 
St. Sophia. 
 
 313 
 
 to obtain a view of objects to which access is obtained 
 with so much difficulty. 
 
 We went at once to the mosque of St. Sophia, the 
 pride of the Mohammedans, as it was of the Christians 
 of former days. As seen from without, this celebrated 
 edifice exhibits nothing remarkable but the lofty cen- 
 tral dome by which it is surmounted. This is always 
 an imposing object, but the rest of the building fails to 
 produce corresponding effect. The massive towers or 
 buttresses, which have been added to the original edi- 
 fice to give additional support to the grand dome, — the 
 less elevated and smaller domes that surround the prin- 
 cipal one, — the great number of appendages, built for 
 the accommodation of the priests and other purposes, 
 which surround and form a part of the mosque, — the 
 multitude of small domes in the Turkish style, giving 
 an immense extent to the roof, which descends in irreg- 
 ular and ungraceful proportions almost to the ground — 
 all tend to impart a clumsy and heavy appearance to 
 this vast pile, and to mar the effect of its general mag- 
 nificence of design and the great architectural beauties 
 which belong to particular portions of the building. 
 
 The four tall white minarets, always agreeable and 
 beautiful objects, which have of course been added bj" 
 the Turks, relieve in some measure the bad effect of 
 other alterations and additions. In entering the main 
 edifice, we pass through two immense vestibules, sepa- 
 rated from each other and the interior by partitions and 
 folding doors. After passing these approaches, we en- 
 tered the vast and noble area which constitutes the 
 great and distinguishing beauty of this celebrated edi- 
 
 M 
 
314 
 
 St. 'Sophia, 
 
 fice. It is about one hundred and twenty feet in diam- 
 eter, paved with costly marbles, and has for its ceiling 
 the magnificent dome elevated a hundred and eighty 
 feet above the floor. It is free from all the usual ob- 
 structions of fine columns, monuments, and statues, 
 and the eye ranges freely over this sublime expanse, 
 meeting with no obstacle but a number of insignificant 
 lamps, and their contemptible ornaments of ostrich 
 eggs, which are suspended from the vault of the dome 
 and descend nearly to the floor. 
 
 Nothing can be more grand and impressive than the 
 view of St. Sophia. I was far less forcibly struck 
 with the first sight of St. Peter’s, though unquestion- 
 ably the Roman church is very superior to the Byzan- 
 tine. St. Peter’s is a study for many days or weeks, 
 and the visitor can only approach the grandeur of its 
 vast design when he has become acquainted with the 
 amazing varieties as well as the richness and exquisite 
 beauties of its parts. In St. Sophia the general view 
 is sublime and almost overwhelming. It fills the spec- 
 tator with sublime and high thoughts, and he feels that 
 this glorious temple is a fitting place, if there can be 
 one on earth, for the worship of an infinite God. ^Be- 
 sides this area under the dome, there is nothing spe- 
 cially worthy of attention. 
 
 '^he dome is supported by four immense pillars, 
 wnich, however, have nothing remarkable but their 
 magnitude. Between these pillars are rows of splen- 
 did and antique columns, sixteen in all, which support 
 the gallery. The pavement of the church is composed 
 of beautiful marbles, about fifteen feet long by four or 
 
St. Sophia. 
 
 815 
 
 nve wide. They are nearly concealed by mats, an in- 
 dispensable appendage to a mosque. The ceiling is 
 also composed of a variet}^ of beautiful and precious 
 marbles. They are sawn in very thin slabs, many of 
 which are ten or fifteen feet in length', and are so ar- 
 ranged that the rich clouds and veins of various pieces 
 of marble harmonize, and have the appearance of one 
 immense block. The ascent to the gallery is made 
 by an inclined plane, which might be mounted by a 
 . coach. 
 
 This had originally the name of the women’s gal- 
 lery,” from the use to which it is appropriated. It is 
 very spacious, and might be converted into half a 
 dozen churches of convenient size for Protestant wor- 
 ship. It is paved with marble, and supported in front 
 by rows of columns, remarkable only for the vicious 
 style of their capitals. We were conducted, by nar- 
 row and difficult stairs, rising from the top of some of 
 the lower domes, to a narrow gallery, running on the 
 inside of the grand dome, only a few feet from the 
 top. It is only used for illuminations. The view of 
 the lower part of the edifice is very striking from this 
 great elevation. 
 
 The dome was originally ceiled with beautiful mo- 
 saics, formed of cubes of colored glass, an eighth of an 
 inch square. > This splendid work is now nearly de- 
 molished, and visitors usually contrive to carry away 
 a few fragments, which, however inconsiderable one 
 by one, will soon complete the destruction of. this valu- 
 able relic of ancient taste and art. The roguish guides 
 guard very carefully against these petty thefts, but al- 
 
316 
 
 St. Sophia. 
 
 ways have some fragments which they offer to the vis- 
 itor for a few piastres. Just at the spring of the dome 
 are some frightful figures in mosaic, now much dilapi- 
 dated, which belonged to the original ornaments of St. 
 Sophia. They were intended to represent the seraphim 
 of Ezekiel. The immense roof and immense domes 
 of the mosque are covered with lead, as indeed are all 
 the mosques of the city. Mohammedan teachers, with 
 groups of pupils, were sitting upon mats or carpets in 
 various parts of the mosque. Some of our party ob- 
 served a great number of trunks and caskets, which 
 they were informed contained jewels and other articles 
 of value, deposited here for safety — a most interesting 
 relic of one of the most ancient as well as prevalent 
 usages with which history makes us acquainted. 
 
 I 
 
CHAPTER XL. 
 
 THE SERAGLIO. 
 
 From St. Sophia we proceeded to the Seraglio, dis- 
 tant only the width of a street. This is not included 
 in the privileges conferred by our firman, but is yery 
 commonly opened to parties fortified with such a pass- 
 port. It was opened to us without objection, and we 
 entered these storied and almost enchanted precincts 
 through the principal gate, which has some architectu- 
 ral pretensions, but is much more distinguished by be- 
 ing the place where, in some niches made for the pur- 
 pose, the heads of traitors, unsuccessful generals, and 
 fallen courtiers, are wont to be exhibited to the popu- 
 lar gaze and execration. It is or was a sort of court 
 register, where events of this description were an- 
 nounced in this very graphic and impressive style. 
 
 The Seraglio is not merely a palace, though it con- 
 tains several palaces. It occupies the entire site of the 
 whole city of Byzantium, the predecessor of Constan- 
 tinople, and is not less than three miles in circumfer- 
 ence. It is inclosed by an ancient wall similar to that 
 of the city, and appears equally ancient. Besides the 
 royal residences, this inclosure contain^ several of the 
 
818 
 
 The Seraglio. 
 
 public establishments, extensive stables, &c., and more 
 than five-sixths of the area is occupied with open courts, 
 gardens, lawns, and groves. It was into one of these 
 spacious courts, containing perhaps nearly two acres, 
 that we passed through the first gate. On the left are 
 buildings used for an armory and mint, and on the 
 right guard-houses and offices for servants. Here is an 
 immense plane-tree forty -four feet in circumference. It 
 is hollow, and was long used for a coffee-house, but the 
 entrance is now closed with planks. 
 
 Advancing to the entrance of the second court, we 
 were shown the splendid saloon where the Sultan is 
 accustomed to receive foreign ambassadors, and an- 
 other ajDartment where he sits one day in each week to 
 receive petitions and complaints from his people. These 
 apartments stand in the rear of a thick cypress grove. 
 Open galleries run along in front, and all parts are 
 gorgeously ornamented with gilding in the oriental 
 style. On presenting ourselves at the third gate, it was 
 announced that the keeper was asleep, and we must 
 wait till he had finished his nap. Fortunately for us, 
 the sluggard was not long in brushing the poppies from 
 his pillow, and we were, after a few minutes of rather 
 provoking delay, admitted to view the very splendid 
 room which contains the throne where the Sultan sits 
 upon certain State occasions. It is approached through 
 a cluster of beautiful columns. It is splendidly and 
 lavishly adorned with gold, and answers well to the 
 magnificent but ill-defined and indefinable idea which 
 we are apt to entertain of royal splendor in the eastern 
 world. 
 
The Seraglio. 
 
 819 
 
 The apartments which I have enumerated are sepa- 
 rate edifices, and not parts of one grand palace. In 
 this they are like everything in the seraglio. There is 
 no vast palace, but a kiosk there, a saloon and cluster 
 of chambers here, without regard to order, connection, 
 or plan. At a small distance from the throne-room is 
 the largest structure we had yet seen, two stories high, 
 with galleries in front, all richly painted and adorned. 
 We took it to be the palace, but were told it contained 
 only servants’ apartments. Through a fourth gate, we 
 entered a long covered way, which leads into an open 
 court, containing the column of Theodosius the Great, 
 erected in memory of his victory over the Goths. It 
 is fifty feet high, and, with a strange perversion of 
 taste, is whitewashed, which quite conceals the texture 
 of the marble, and renders illegible the inscription on 
 the base.* This court is well supplied with trees, as 
 indeed the whole seraglio, to an extent which gives it 
 the appearance of an extensive forest. 
 
 W e next passed a long range of stables, and entered 
 an ill kept but beautiful garden, well supplied with 
 shrubs, flowers, and trees. In the centre is a circular 
 basin of green water, around which are built green- 
 houses for preserving exotic plants in winter. Here 
 are by far the most extensive and beautiful ranges 
 of buildings in the Seraglio. They consist of sev- 
 eral very large halls, designed for public or convivial 
 occasions. One is supported by a great many beau- 
 tiful marble columns, and all are adorned with rich 
 
 * According to Mr. Hobhouse, the inscription is, Fortunce reduci 
 oh devietos Gothos. 
 
 
820 
 
 The Seraglio. 
 
 chandeliers and gilding. One of these halls has a 
 beautiful marble fountain in the centre, with more 
 than twenty little jets of water. At the distance of a 
 few yards is an alcove looking out upon the sea, fur- 
 nished with a divan, where the sultan may at once 
 enjoy the refreshing coolness of the playful waters, 
 and the pleasure of a line view. We were led into 
 three beautiful baths, all constructed of fine marble, 
 and fitted up in the luxurious style which the Turks 
 are wont to employ in these establishments. The 
 apartments of the women are extensive and commodi- 
 ous, but less splendid than the State-rooms. There is 
 but little furniture, and that little chiefly European, 
 which always appears out of place in their oriental 
 palaces. One wishes to see nothing but carpets and 
 divans. Upon the whole, considered as the residence 
 of a powerful prince, the Seraglio is poor and mean in 
 'its accommodations and style. It is a heterogeneous 
 and tasteless assemblage of buildings meanly con- 
 structed at first, ready to fall into ruin through neglect 
 and want of repair. The site alone is of surpassing 
 beauty. 
 
 We returned towards the gate of entrance by a dif- 
 ferent route from the one already described. It led us 
 past the Treasury, an ordinary-looking building, but 
 said to be of Byzantine architecture, and through the 
 park which contains many fine trees and rich lawns, 
 well stocked with deer, which seemed quite gentle. 
 We visited the different apartments of the mint, where 
 all the various processes of coining are carried on in a 
 most imperfect manner by clumsy and worn out ma- 
 
The Mint. 
 
 321 
 
 chinerj. The silver coins of Turkey are only white- 
 washed copper, having no intrinsic value. We saw 
 two or three bushels of these worthless pieces in a so- 
 lution of silver, and a man raking them to and fro to 
 give them a shining exterior of the more precious 
 metal. The piastre of Turkey, formerly equal in 
 value to a Spanish dollar, has been reduced, under the 
 preposterous financiering of the government, to about 
 four cents. We heard of an improved machine, con- 
 structed by an American artist, who belongs to the 
 mint, by which the work of coining is performed in a 
 very superior style, but were unable to get sight of it. 
 
 Our visit to the Seraglio terminated at the Armory. 
 We were at first refused admittance, and had io wait 
 nearly an hour for the superintendent. Our impatience 
 at this unreasonable delay, was a little diverted by a 
 gentleman present, who assured us that he had waited 
 at the Custom House on one occasion full four hours 
 for the proper officer to examine his trunks. The 
 functionary was asleep, and the employes, instead of 
 rousing him, spoke and stepped softly. When at last 
 he awoke, two attendants aided him in descending the 
 stairs, and having seated him on the soft cushions of 
 his divan, served coffee and the chibouk. It was after 
 all this ceremony, that he at length engaged in the 
 business of his office, for which hundreds were waiting. 
 Such abuses become more tolerable in their excess, 
 than in their lower degrees, as they then assume a 
 character of amusing absurdity, which provokes the 
 sufferer to laugh away his vexation. 
 
 When at length the great man made his appearance, 
 14 * 
 
322 
 
 The Armory. 
 
 he demanded our firman, which gave ns no admittance, 
 even through the outer gate of the Seraglio, and having 
 read it with great apparent carefulness, and no little 
 pomp of manner, he signified to us that we were per- 
 mitted to enter the Armory. It turned out to be not 
 worth seeing. There were a few thousand muskets 
 placed in frames in the usual manner, all badly kept. 
 There were also a few suits of ancient armor and coats 
 of mail, A pretty good assortment of the fire-arms of 
 different epochs, shows' that the Turks have about kept 
 pace with other nations in the skill they have employed 
 in forging these instruments of death, having advanced 
 from the immense unwieldly instrument, which made 
 a load for a strong man, to the common matchlock, 
 and at last to the musket now in common use. Many 
 swords and pistols, richly inlaid with gold, and vari- 
 ously fashioned, are tastefully arranged in suns, stars, 
 and crescents, along the walls. The most curious ob- 
 jects here are the brazen camp-kettles of the annihi- 
 lated J anissaries, which they used to turn upside down, 
 in token of those terrible revolts which so often im- 
 parted to the government a corresponding change of 
 position. This edifice, now the depository of weapons 
 and munitions of war, is said to have been a Christian 
 church, consecrated by the Byzantines to St. Irene. 
 
 This was ,the last day spent in the society of my 
 valued friends, the Eev. Mr. and Mrs. Hamlin, whose 
 residence in Pera had been my home during my stay 
 in the city of the Sultan. With them and with the 
 other American missionaries, I had enjoyed hours of 
 delightful intercourse. Their cordial hospitality and 
 
D E P A R T T; RE . 
 
 323 
 
 kind considerate attentions, had contributed greatly to 
 my comfort, as well as facilitated my objects in visiting 
 this Oriental city, beautiful for situation” above all I 
 have seen in any part of the world, and it was with 
 lively regret that I bade adieu to them and to the Golden 
 Horn, and embarked in the Ferdinando Secondo for 
 Vienna. 
 
V 
 
 ; 
 
 
4 
 
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