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ly'^^A^-^ yLr^^y^y 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 IN 
 
 GREECE 
 
 o R 
 
 AN ACCOUNT OF A TOUR 
 
 MADE AT THE EXPENSE 
 
 OF THE SOCIETY 
 
 O F 
 
 D ILETTANTI. 
 
 By RICHARD CHANDLER, D. D. 
 
 FELLOW OF MAGDALEN COLLEGE, 
 AND OF THE SOCIETY OF ANTIQUARIES. 
 
 EST QUODAM PRODIRE TENUS, SI NON DATUR ULTRA. 
 
 HORAT. 
 
 OXFORD: 
 
 Printed at the Clarewdon Press. 
 M. DCC. LXX. VI. 
 
 Sold byj. Dodsley, J. Robson, T. Cadell, P. Elmsly, and 
 G. jRoBiNSON, LoNDONj and by D. Prince, Oxford. 
 
Digitized by tine Internet Archive 
 
 in 2012 with funding from 
 
 Research Library, The Getty Research Institute 
 
 http://archive.org/details/travelsingreeceoOOchan 
 
THE PLATES. 
 
 To face p. i. A Map of part of Greece and of the Peloponnesus 
 
 by KiTCHiN. 
 p. 20. A Plan of Port PiR/Eus. 
 
 N. B. This and the following, the Plan of Athens 
 
 excepted, may be found in a very valuable work entitled 
 
 Befcripticn Gecgraphique du Golfe de Venife ei de la Moree. 
 
 Par le Sieur Bellin, Ingmieur de la Marine^ ISc. Paris 
 
 1 77 1. Some alterations and additions are here made in 
 
 the titles and in the names of places, 
 p. 25. A Plan of Athens, taken from Atem Attica, an account 
 
 of that city when under the Venetians, publiflied in 
 
 1707 by Fanelli ; improved and adapted to this Work, 
 p. 204. A Chart of the Bay of Salamis, with the Piraeus, &c. 
 
 given in Bellin as the road of Athens. 
 p. 210. A Plan of the Harbour of Troezen, and of the ifland 
 
 of Calaurea with the adjacent coaft. 
 p. 234. A Chart of the Isthmus of Corinth, taken in 1697 
 
 by order of Cornaro, Captain-General of the troops 
 
 of the republic of Venice. 
 p. 282. A Chart of the Iflands of St. Maura, Cephallenia,. 
 
 Zante, and the adjacent Coafts. 
 
 REFERENCES 
 
 TO THE 
 
 PLAN OF ATHENS.- 
 
 A A The Iliflus. 
 
 B Mufeum, and the monument of Philopappus. 
 
 C Lycabettus. 
 
 D Areopagus. . ; - 
 
 E Temple of Thefeus.. - ^ - 
 
 F F F The town, with its walls. v, 
 
 G G The Acropolis or Citadel. 
 
 H The Propylea. 
 
 a b The antient entrance. 
 
 c The right wing, or temple of Vidory, 
 
 d The left wing. 
 I ■ The Parthenon, or great temple of Minerva* 
 
 e The Mofque, 
 K The Eredheum, 
 
 f The 
 
( 4 ) 
 
 f The temple of Neptune. 
 
 g The temple of Minerva Polias. 
 
 h The portico of the temple of Minerva Polias. 
 
 L The Pandrofeum. 
 
 i The cave of Pan, beneath the temple of Vidlory. 
 
 k A fountain. 
 
 •1 Pelafgicon. 
 
 m Cavern. 
 
 M The theatre of Bacchus. 
 
 n Cave, and the choragic monument above the theatre. 
 
 N The Odeum. 
 
 o o The Ceramicus within the city. 
 
 p p Coele, or The Hollow. 
 
 O Pnyx. 
 
 P Gymnafium of Ptolemy. 
 
 Q^ Prytaneum. 
 
 R A Doric veftibule, or the portal of the new Agora or Market-place. 
 
 S The tower of the Winds. 
 
 T The choragic monument of Lyficrates. 
 
 U Hadrian's Gate. 
 
 V The ternple of Jupiter Olympius. 
 W Anchefmus. 
 
 q Ionic columns. 
 r A church. 
 X The bridge over the Iliflus. 
 
 Y The Stadium. 
 
 s The private way. 
 Z The Eleufinium, or temple of Ceres and Proferpine. 
 
 t A rocky dell. 
 
 1 Mofques in the town. 
 
 2 A mofque, which ferved as a magazine. 
 
 3 A mofque, which was the Lutheran church. 
 
 4 A column then Handing. 
 
 5 A church. 
 
 6 A church. 
 
 7 Temple of the Mufes, according to Fanelli. 
 
 i5 Sepulchres, (tiled by Fanelli the prifons of Areopagus. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 /^UR bark We leave Smyrna-— —•'The fails and yards 
 
 ^^ We put into a creek The vintage begun 
 
 Off PJyra ^ Jlorm The night We gain a port 
 
 in Eubcea Sail by Caryjlus > hi a creek of Attica. Page i 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 Set fail Of Hydre We pafs the ifland Helene In 
 
 the port of Sunium — Of the town — The temple of Minerva 
 Sunias — Hydriote vejjels. _j 
 
 CHAP III. 
 
 Of the ifland Mgina — We fail by the ifland of Patroclus — Our 
 mariners — We arrive at JEgina — View from mount Panhel- 
 lenius — Story of Macus — Temple of Jupiter — We fet fail for 
 the city of Mgina. 9 
 
 C H A P. IV. 
 
 Shoals and rocks Aphcenomenon We anchor in the mole of 
 
 JEgina Of the city Of the barrow of Phocus 
 
 Phreattys Of Oea The prefent town — - — The ifland. 1 3 
 
 CHAP. 
 
ii CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 We arrhe in the Piraus — Of the ports of Athens — Phakrum 
 a?id Munychia — Remark on Phakrum — Piraus — The town 
 — The long walls — Other fortifications — Their flate under 
 the Rojnans — Vrefent ftate of Phakrum and Munychia — Of 1 8 
 the Piraeus — Infcriptions. 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 Wefet out for Athens — Two roads defcribed by Paufanias — The 
 barrow of Euripides — The public cifierns — M. Lycabettus 
 —We arrive at the French convent — Reception at Athens. 23 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 The city of Cecrops Athens burned by the Perfians, &c. 
 
 Under the Macedonians Receives a Roman garrifon 
 
 Defaced by Sylla State under the Roman emperors 
 
 Governed by a pro-conful Kindnefs of Hadrian The 
 
 city-wall rejhred Bejieged and taken Favoured by 
 
 Conftantine the great In danger from the Goths 
 
 Sacked by Alaric A chafm in its hiftory Under various 
 
 majiers after the twelfth cejitury Unknown in the fix teen tb 
 
 Antient extent of the walls. 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 27 
 
 Of modern Athens The antiquities Tl^e citadel lis 
 
 antient and prejent flate. 2^ 
 
 C H A P. IX. 
 
 Of Pericles Of his buildings Entrance of the acropolis 
 
 The propylea Story of the architect The temple 
 
 of ViSlory, or right wing of the propyka The left wing 
 
 Prefent fate of the propylea Of the temple 
 
 Ignorance of the Turks and Greeks Of the left wing • • 
 
 The propylea when ruined Infcription on a pedefial. 38 
 
 CHAP. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 in 
 
 Of the parthenpn—'—Of the Jlattie of Minerva Of Phidias 
 
 —" -The Jiatue remaining after Julian When removed 
 
 The temple when ruined Defcribed in 1676 
 
 Prefent Jlate The pediments Other fculptures' 
 
 Copied by Mr. Pars. 44. 
 
 C H A P. XL 
 
 Of the EreBheum Temple of Neptune Temple of Minerva 
 
 Polias Story of Pa?idrofos Prefent Jlate of the temples 
 
 of Neptune and Minerva Of the Pandrofeum 
 
 Bufinefs of the virgins called Ca7iephori——~ Images of Minerva 
 
 The treafury ———Infcriptions. ez 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 Fro?it of the hill of the acropolis the cave of Apollo and 
 
 Pan A fountain and ftatue The pelafgicon and long 
 
 rocks An infer iption The theatre of Bacchus 
 
 The Atheiiians fond of gladiators A grotto and choragic 
 
 monumeiit The Odium of Pericles and Atticus Her odes. 58 
 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 
 Of the areopagus The tribunal when extinSt The pnyx 
 
 — — Account of pnyx. 6 6 
 
 CHAP. XIV. 
 
 Story of Thefeus A temple ereBed to him 'The decorations 
 
 Prefent Jlate of the temple — — The fculptures ■ — 
 
 Gymnafmm of Ptolemy. 69 
 
 a 2 CHAP, 
 
iv CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 A marble arch or gate-way The temple of Jupiter Olympius 
 
 Not fitiified before Hadrian Number ofjlatues, &c. 
 
 The ruin Of the water of Athens An aquaduSi 
 
 Of the Eridanus and Iliffm Remark An antient 
 
 bridge 73 
 
 CHAP. XVL 
 
 The fiadium Rebuilt by Atticus Her odes Trefent flate 
 
 A temple by the Iliffus Once the Eleufinium The 
 
 lejjer myfteries Temple of Diana the huntrefs The 
 
 fountain Calltrhoe or Enneacrunus Scene of a dialogue of 
 
 Plato Changed. 80 
 
 CHAP. xvir. 
 
 The Mufeuni Monument of Philopappus Sepulchres • ■ 
 
 The Cimonian fepukhres The eminence fronti^ig the acropolis. %^ 
 
 CHAP. XVIII. 
 
 Of the gate called Dipylon AbJlraSl of Taufafiias The 
 
 Pompeium, &c. Statues of Jupiter and Hadrian Of 
 
 Harmodius and Arijiogiton Paintings in Pcecile The 
 
 region called Melite The Agora Ihe altar of Pity. 89 
 
 CHAP. XIX. 
 
 AbflraB of Paufanias Of the temple of the Diofcuri and of 
 
 Agraulos Columns of different kinds of marble Of the 
 
 Delphinium 'Of the temple of Venus in the gardens. 94 
 
 CHAP. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAP XX. 
 
 AbjlraSl of Paufanias The Prytaneum Of the Jlreet 
 
 called The Tripods and a monumefit remaining Infcriptions 
 
 The T>ionyfiiim Other temples Of Pandion and of 
 
 the goddefs Rome, &c. in the Acropolis The fountain 
 
 Empedo CeJJation of the magijtracies at Athens -Of 
 
 the Panathencean proceffon. 96 
 
 CHAP. XXI. 
 
 Omijions in Paufanias The tower of the Winds Dance of 
 
 the Dervifhes A Doric portal Suppofed the entraiice of 
 
 an Agora The Athenians given to flattery 'Paufanias 
 
 illujirated. 103 
 
 CHAP. XXII. 
 
 Athens the feat of philofophy The way to the Academy Of 
 
 the Academy — — Of the Colonus Hippius Gardens of 
 
 Philofophers The graves and fepulchres levelled Site of 
 
 the Academy Colo?ius Hippius The river CephiJJiis. 1 07 
 
 CHAP. XXIII. 
 
 *Ihe Lyceum— —~Cynofarges Mention of them in Plato 
 
 Thefite. 1 1 j 
 
 CHAP. XXIV. 
 
 Of the Univerfty of Athens The Profejfors Degrees 
 
 Drejfes Manner of entrance— -Char aSler and extinSlion 
 
 of the Philofophers Ruin of the Vniverfty. 1 1 3 
 
 CHAP. XXV. 
 
 Of the people of Athens The Turkifh government The 
 
 , Turks The Greeks The Albanians The Archbifl:iop 
 
 CharaSler of the Athenians, 1 17 
 
 CHAR 
 
vi CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAP. XXVI. 
 
 Care of the female fex at Athe7is -— Drefs of the Turkifi women 
 abroad — Of the Greek-^Of the Albanian — Drefs of the Greek 
 at home — Manner of colour mg the fockets of their eyes—-Their 
 education. 121 
 
 CHAP. XXVII. 
 
 Of the territory of Athens — The olive-groves — Bees — Provi- 
 fions — Birds — Hare-calling — Wild beajis — The horned owl — 
 A water-fpout — Antient prognojlics of weather — Sting of a 
 fcorpion. 125 
 
 CHAP. XXVIII. 
 
 We remove from the Convent — A Turk defcribed — The Athenian: 
 civil to us — A Turkijh foot-race and wrejiling-match — Dance 
 of the Arabian women — Greek dances — Marriages of the 
 Turks — Of the Greeks — Of the Albanians — Funeral ceremo- 
 nies — No learning — Credulity and fuperjlition. 131 
 
 CHAP. XXIX. 
 
 We continue at Athens — Account of Lombardi'—The archbifliop 
 forced to fly — Diflrefs from want of corn — Intrigues of 
 Lombardi. 138 
 
 CHAP. XXX. 
 
 yoiirney to mount Hymettus — An antient well — Vefliges of Alopece 
 — Arrive at fame bee-Jlands — Alarmed in the night — Turkijh 
 rigour — A well — The jloaft of a mine — Dinner — At Drago- 
 niji — Afpeckled owl — The rnonajlery of St. Cyriani. 141 
 
 CHAP. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAP. XXXI. 
 
 vu 
 
 Towns between Phalerum and Sunitim -Capes and ijland s 
 
 Barrows by Alopece •Vejiiges of /Exone and Anagyrus 
 
 'Entertained by a Greek Abbot A Paneum orfaered cave 
 
 Wheler's rout from Sunium to Athens Remarks. 146 
 
 CHAP. XXXII. 
 
 DiJlinB profvinces of the heathen gods Their charaBers and 
 
 places of worJJoip A Panhm or Nymphceum^ with infcrip- 
 
 tions Of Archidamus and the age when he lived Of 
 
 the Nymphs Of Nympholepfy Of f acred caves Of 
 
 a cave in Ithaca In Paphlagonia Of the two entrances 
 
 '•The offerings— ——Defign of the cave. 140 
 
 CHAP. XXXIII. 
 
 Towns on the eaftei-n coajl of Attica Of Thoricus Of 
 
 Potamus Of Prafice "" -Of the port of Profile or port 
 
 Raphti The road to it from Athens ExtraSl from 
 
 Wheler continued. i^^ 
 
 C H A P. XXXIV. 
 
 Road to Marathon Of Cephifia An infcription at Oxford 
 
 brought from thence-^— 'Another infcription— —fourney con- 
 tinued— —Of Br aur on— —Of Marathon— Funeral of 
 Atticus Her odes- Pafs the night on Pentele, i^g 
 
 CHAP. XXXV. 
 
 Of the plain of Marathon ExtraB from Wheler Of 
 
 Rhamnus The battle of Marathon— Defcription from 
 
 Paufanias The large barrow. 163 
 
 CHAP. 
 
VIU 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAP. XXXVL 
 
 A cave and the goat-Jland of Pan near Marathon Story of 
 
 the woman of Nonoi Way to the cave Account of it 
 
 Re?narks. 1 66 
 
 CHAP. XXXVII. 
 
 Afcend mount Ventcle T!he parries Chapels, ^c. T^tf 
 
 Monajlery of Pentele Return to Athens Numerous 
 
 Churches^ &c. 169 
 
 CHAP, XXXVIII. 
 
 The northern boundary of Attica Wbeler's rcut from Mara- 
 thon to Oropus Eleutherce Decekia Phyle- 
 
 Harma Wheler's rout Jrom Thebes to Athens. 172 
 
 CHAP. XXXIX. 
 
 Excurjions byfea The Jlr aits of Salamis Manner of fijh- 
 
 ing with a light Mode of Ihing Arrive at Eleujts. ly^ 
 
 CHAP. XL. 
 
 Of the Eleujinian Myjieries Of Eleufis Of the myflic 
 
 temple and the minijlers 0/ the fecrecy obferved by the 
 
 initiated — An hypothefis concei-ning the dejign of the myjieries 
 — Account of the ceremony of initiation — The foundation of 
 the myjieries. 178 
 
 CHAP. XLI. 
 
 The procefjion of lacchus from Athens — The facred way to the 
 mountains — The monaflery of Daphne., &c. — The facred way 
 beyond, to Elcifis — The Rhiti or falt-Jireams, &c. — An 
 Injcription — Incurfons of the Lacedcemoftiajis into Attica. 1 83 
 
 CHAP. 
 
CONTENTS. ix 
 
 CHAP. XLII. 
 
 ExfinSiion of the 'Eleufinian myfleries — Of Eleujis — Of the my flic 
 temple i &c. — Other remains — Road to Megara. i88 
 
 CHAP. XLIIL 
 
 Proceed to Megara — Of the port and toivn Nifaa — Of Megara 
 — The Jlone — An infcription — Dread of Cor fairs — Of the 
 Megaris — Our lodging, &c. 1 92 
 
 CHAP. XLIV. 
 
 Leave Megara — Vejliges of buildings — Of the Scironian rocks 
 and way — 'The prefent road to Corinth — Pafs the night in a 
 cave — Coajl by the Sciro?iian way — Vejliges of Cromyon — 
 — OfSidh. 196 
 
 CHAP. XLV. 
 
 Land on the iflhmiis of Corinth— At Epidaurus and Methana — 
 On the iflets in the gidf—At JEgina — On the if and of 
 Salamis jng 
 
 CHAP. XLVI. 
 
 Of Salamis — IJlets — Fragments on Cynofura — Trophy for the 
 battle of Salamis — The city — Village of Albanians — Old 
 Salamis — The flower of Ajax. 201 
 
 CHAP. XLVII. 
 
 An antient oracle — The battle of Salamis— -Flight of the Perfian 
 Jleet. 204. 
 
 CHAP. XLVIIL 
 
 Intended rout from Athens— Prepare for our departure— -At the 
 Pirceus — Embark—Land on Munychia — Pafs a haunted rock 
 -—Land on an ifet — On Mgina. 206 
 
 b CHAP. 
 
 4' 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAP. XLIX. 
 
 Sail from Mgina—The ijland and town of Poro—The monajlery 
 —Way to Calaurea—~Of the city— The remains— A goat- 
 herd. 209 
 
 CHAP. L. 
 
 Sail up the harbour of Trcezen — Land on the peninfula of 
 Methana — The bay or lake —Of Trcezen—The ruins — The 
 Acropolis — The water — Of Damald— A proverbial faying. 213 
 
 CHAP. LI. 
 
 The gulf of Epidauria — Of Methana — An antient chartn- — 
 A hot Jpring — The ifets—Of Epidaurus — The harbour. 2 1 8 
 
 CHAP. LII. 
 
 Land in Epidauria— Set out on foot for the grove of JEfculapius 
 — At Ligurio—The evening — Remains by Ligurio. 221 
 
 CHAP. LIII. 
 
 The grove of JEfculapius— His Jlatue and temple— Infcriptions 
 —The Stadium— The Theatre— Mount Cynortium — fVater, 
 &c. — Serpefits 223 
 
 CHAP. LIV. 
 
 Leave Ligurio — Nauplia — Tiryns — The river Inac bus — 
 OldArgos — The prefent toivn. 226 
 
 CHAP. LV. 
 
 Mycena near Argos — Agamemnon fain at Mycena — The city 
 ruined — The temple of Juno-'-JVe mifs thefite. 229 
 
 CHAP. 
 
CONTENTS. xi 
 
 CHAP. Lvr. 
 
 We arrive at Nemea Of the temple of Jupiter The 
 
 Nemean games Ruin of the temple Mount Apefas^ ^c. 
 
 A village, and mona fiery. 231 
 
 CHAP. LVII. 
 
 To Cleonce Arrive at Corinth 'TheJituation'~——The ports 
 
 The city dejlroyed and repealled Defcribed by Strabo 
 
 By Paufanias Taken by Alaric and the Turks 
 
 Its prejentjlate A ruin. 234 
 
 CHAP. LVIII. 
 
 Of the Ifihmus-'"—T^he place where vejfels were drawn over 
 
 Attempts to unite the twofeas A wall ereBed acrofs 
 
 The temple of IJlhmian Neptune Thejite. 240 
 
 CHAP. LIX. 
 
 The Archbijloop of Athens rejlored We leave Corinth 
 
 Embark Of Anticyra Tbejite. 244 
 
 CHAP. LX. 
 
 At Dyjlomo An infcription AmbryJJus The road to 
 
 Anticyra. 246 
 
 CHAP. LXI. 
 
 Way from Amhryjfiis to St iris Of St iris Infer iptions. 247 
 
 CHAP. LXII. 
 
 Summary of the Life of St. Luke of Stiris. 249 
 
 b 2 CHAP. 
 
XJl 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAP. LXIIT. 
 
 The wonaflery of St. Luke The founder The church 
 
 The r cliques of St. Luke T'he tombs of the emperor Romanus 
 
 and his queen The hermitage. 252 
 
 CHAP. LXIV. 
 
 Of Bulls Places on the coaft between Bulls and the IJlhmus 
 
 The bay of Linjadofro Afcra Mount Helicon 
 
 The grove of the Miijh Of thefte, &c. 256 
 
 CHAP. LXV. 
 
 We leave Dyjlomo The ivay called Schljle The road into 
 
 Thocis from Bceotia Of Orchomenus and Chc^ronea We 
 
 arrive at Delphi. 259 
 
 CHAP. LXVI. 
 
 SanBity of Delphi The AmphiByonic afjembly The oracle 
 
 The temple Its riches Its decline, 260 
 
 CHAP. LXVII. 
 
 ^ite of Delphi The court of the temple ExtinBion of Apollo 
 
 ^efiiges An infer iption Other infer iptions 
 
 Cafalia. 264 
 
 CHAP. LXVIII. 
 
 Of 7nount Parnafjus The Corycian cave Whelers journey 
 
 on 7nount Parnajfus Remarks Some Albaniafis arrive 
 
 at the monajlery . 268 
 
 CHAP. LXIX. 
 
 OfCirrha Of Amphiffa The port of Delphi— ~— We le^ve 
 
 Delphi Embark, 271 
 
 CHAP. 
 
CONTENTS. xiii 
 
 CHAP. LXX. 
 
 At GaWxithium— — At Thilhavra A plane-tree on the Jim- e 
 
 of the Morea Site of Bojiitza Mgium The mouth 
 
 of the giif Lepanto The Cajlles Arrive at Patra. 273 
 
 CHAP. LXXI. 
 
 OfPatrce The city Feafi of Diana — —The prefent town 
 
 The fouthfde of the gulf of Corinth NegleSl of tra- 
 vellers. Z'j6 
 
 CHAP. LXXII. 
 
 We leave Patra On the coajl of JEtolia- Flats The 
 
 river Achelous The ifands called Echinades The 
 
 Fijloery A fnonoxylo or Jkijf Towns Caiife of the 
 
 bad air in the gidf Encroachments of the river. 279 
 
 CHAP. LXXIII. 
 
 We fail In the bay of Chiarenza Cyllene — — At Gajloiini 
 
 At Elis Its territory facred —— The city 
 
 Vejliges. 282 
 
 CHAP. LXXIV. 
 
 Set Old for Olympia Arrangetnent of the coaft At a monaf- 
 
 tery The ?iight A tree-frog At Pyrgo Pitch 
 
 our tent by a ruin' Gnats, 286 
 
 CHAP. LXXV. 
 
 Of Pifa Of Olympia -Of the temple of Jupiter The 
 
 Jlatue Tlje great altar Other altars Riches of 
 
 Olympia Sole?nnity of the games • Herodcs a beneJaSlor 
 
 Ruin of Olympia. 2S9 
 
 CHAP. 
 
xW CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAP. LXXVI. 
 
 Vejliges of Olympia Mirdca The river Alpheus. 294 
 
 CHAP. LXXVII. 
 
 yourney of Mr. Bocher Ruin of a temple Near Vhigalia. 295 
 
 CHAP. LXXVIII. 
 
 Our fituation We return to Chiarenza Arrive at Zante 
 
 Perform quarantijie Remove from the Lazaretto, 297 
 
 CHAP. LXXIX. 
 
 Of the if and of Zante The city The Corinth-grape 
 
 Currants — — ExtraSt from Herodotus The tarfprings 
 
 — — Remarks Earthquakes Not able to proceed 
 
 Occurrences at Zajite Embark Jor England, 299 
 
ERRATA. 
 
 PAGE 3, 1. 25, read " ladn or" 
 
 7, 1. 14, read " fea urchin" and " coaft, full of prickles like a chef- 
 
 " nut," Corrcft alfo, p. 177, 1. 12. p. 208, 1. 17. 
 
 8, 1. antepenult, read " and a quarter" 
 28, 1. 2, Note, " by the" 
 
 33, 1. penult. " thirty five" 
 36,1. 27, " gulf, and" 
 
 1. 28. " is pleafant, but too airy" 
 37, 1. penult. «' needs" 1. ult." " in order to" 
 52, and p. 53, and p. 179, " Erechtheum" and " Erechtheus'* 
 52, 1. 13, 1. 19, " Neptune-Erechthcus" 
 63, 1. penult. " Thrai'yllus" 
 
 75, 1. 18, 1. 19, " Jupiter, which is worth feeing, refembles the other 
 " llatues of him in fize, except that thole" 
 
 I. 20, " are coloflal, and is made" 
 
 1. 28, " Coloffus, which is" 
 78, 1. 2. " adopted fon" 
 
 93, 1. 4, " had tents" 
 
 94, 1. 23, " Ilithya" 
 101, 1. I, " city J" 
 
 104, 1. 4, " On a fudden" 
 1. antepenult. " and, it" 
 
 106, 1. 7, " conferring of" 1. 9. " placing of" 
 
 107, 1. 4, " except in name and" 
 
 120, 1. penult. " -maa ;" 1. ult. " and what?" 
 
 127, 1. 16, •' beccafico" 
 
 • 30, 1. 17, " lefs" and alfo, p. 193, 1. 5, p. 228, 1. 5 
 
 132, I. 23, " fweetmeats" 
 
 139, 1. 31, " and another" 
 
 176, I. 2, Note, " mitiget" 
 
 «77, 1. 16, " pinna marina" 
 
 180, 1. 26, " of this" 
 
 183, 1. 15, " filence'" and at the bottom of the page " ' See what 
 
 " is faid of the Leffer Eleufinian Myfteries, p. 82," 
 185,1. I, '• it, is" 1. 16, omit " ox the fainted'^ 
 197, 1. 6, p. 198, 1. 26, " Melicertes" 
 310, 1. antepenult. " rowed" 
 238, 1. 29, 1. 30, " of too much confequence" 
 244, 1. ult. " pop-guns. Our" 
 281, 1. antepenult. " to and from the Ihore" 
 291, ]. 21, " neither oil nor water" 
 293,1.4, " connoiffeur'' 
 294, 1. 7. " with the" 
 302, 1. 22, " marilli". 
 
Lately Publijloed, 
 (Infcribed by the Society of Dilettanti to his Majefty) 
 
 IONIAN A N T I Q^U I T I E S 5 
 
 O R, 
 
 Ruins of magnificent and famous Buildings in IONIA. 
 
 Sold by J. RoBsoN, in Bond-Street, London. 
 
 ALSO. 
 (Infcribed to the Society of Dilettanti) 
 
 INSCRIPTIONES ANT I Q^V A E, 
 
 PLERAEQVE NONDVM EDITAE : 
 IN ASIA MINORI ET GRAECIA, PRAESERTIM ATHENIS, COLLECTAE. 
 CVM APPENDICE. 
 
 Exfcripfit ediditque R. CHANDLER, S. T, P. 
 Coll, Magd. et Soc. Antiq^ Socivs. 
 
 o x o n i i m dcc lxxiv. 
 
 Proftant apud J. Dodsley, Jac. Robson, et Tho. Cadell, Londini j 
 
 et D. Prince, Oxonii. 
 
 ALSO, 
 
 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 
 
o 
 
 T RAVELS 
 
 I N 
 
 GREECE. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Our bark — We leave Smyrna — 'the Jails and yards — We put 
 into a creek — The vintage begun — Off PJyra — A Jlorm — 
 — 'The night — We gain a port in Eubcea-^Sail by Caryjlus 
 -—In a creek of Attica. 
 
 TH E bark, engaged for our voyage from Smyrna to 
 Athens, was one belonging to Hydre, a fmall ifland or 
 rather rock near Scyllaeum, a promontofy of the Pelo- 
 ponnefus oppofite to Sunium in Attica. It had two mails, 
 with fourteen men. The hire was one hundred piafters ; and 
 we agreed to pay a piafter ani^half a day, if we did not depart 
 within ten days j and alfo, if we tarried beyond three days at 
 Sunium or ^gina, at which places we purpofed to touch in 
 our way. 
 
 Our baggage and provifions were put on board on Tuefday 
 Auguft 20, 1765. A gentle land-breeze, as ufual, fprung up 
 about midnight. We bade adieu to our friends the Englifli 
 
 B conful 
 
2 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 conful and Mr. Lee, who accompanied us to our boat ; which 
 rowed to the Frank Scale or Key for Europeans. We were 
 hailed by a Turkifli officer of the cuftoms, and immediately 
 difmiffed. We reached our bark, and weighed anchor. 
 
 Our vefTel carried two triangular fails, each on a very long 
 yard, thick at bottom, tapering upwards, like a bull-rufli, and 
 faftened to the top of the maft, fo as to be moveable every way, 
 like a lever on a pole, fuch as is ufed for drawing water out of 
 wells. In tacking, the big end, which is always the lower, 
 with the rigging, is fliifted over to the oppofite fide. The iharp 
 end is very often high: m the air apeak. 
 
 In the morning the Inbat met us, and we put for fhelter Into 
 a fmall creek on the right hand, near the mouth of the gulf. 
 The boys, climbing up the marts with bare feet and holding by 
 two ropes, beftrode the yards and gathered in the canvafs, 
 furling it quite to the extremities. A Venetian (hip, which had 
 failed from Smyrna fome days before, and was lying at anchor 
 within the bay, afforded us an inftance of the flow progrefs, and 
 confequently tedious voyages, for which that flag is noted and 
 ridiculed in the Levant. 
 
 Between the mountains near us, by the fea fide, was a 
 fmall green valley, in which were fcattered a few mean houfes. 
 There the vintage was now begun ; the black grapes being 
 fpread on the ground in beds, expofed to the fun to dry for 
 raifins ; while in another part, the juice was expreflTed for wine, 
 a man, with feet and legs bare, treading the fruit in a kind of 
 cifliern, with a hole or vent near the bottom, and a veflTel beneath 
 it to receive the liquor. 
 
 When morning approached, the land-breeze re-commenced. 
 The boys mounted the yards, and as they defcended, untied the 
 knots of the fails very expeditioufly. Our captain knew every 
 ifland, rock and capes fleering from promontory to promontory. 
 
 One 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 3 
 
 One of the failors, his brother, fell overboard -, but fwimming 
 he was foon taken up. We came between Leibos and Chios, 
 paffed by the north end of the latter, and, as Neftor did on 
 his return from Troy, toward Pfyra. This little ifland was 
 reckoned forty ftadia, or five miles in circuit'; and fifty ftadia, 
 or fix miles and a quarter, from Meliena, a promontory of Chios. 
 It lay oppofite to the rugged tradt called Arvifia, once famous 
 for its nedlar. The wind was northerly and ftrong, and it was 
 apprehended would become contrary; being remarked to fet 
 commonly into the gulf of Theflalonica during the day, at this 
 feafon ; and to go back again, as it were, toward morning ; in 
 the fame manner as the Inbat and land-breeze prevail alternately 
 in the gulf of Smyrna. We endeavoured to get under the lee of 
 Pfyra, and fucceeding, we failed by a chapel of St. George 
 flanding on a head-land, when the captain and crew made their 
 crofles very devoutly. The fame ceremony was repeated foon 
 after at one of the Panagia or Virgin Mary. We then opened 
 the harbour of the town, and were defirous to put in, but the 
 wind would not permit. 
 
 The day had been cloudy, and diflant flafhes of pale light- 
 ning in the fouth, with fcreaming voices in the air, as was 
 furmifed, of fome fea-bird flying to land, feemed to portend a 
 bluftering and difagreeable night. The captain, who was ikilled 
 in the previous figns of foul weather, prepared his bark by 
 taking down the triangular main-fail, and hoifting a latin ro 
 fquare one, as more manageable. The wind increafing and the 
 fea running very high, our vefTel laboured exceedingly. It was 
 now total darknefs, no moon or flars, but the iky expanding 
 terribly on all fides with livid flames, difclofing the bright waves 
 vehemently afi!ailing, and every moment apparently fwelling to 
 overwhelm us. It thundered alfo, and rained heavily. 
 
 ' Strabo p. 645. Cellarius has confounded the two iflands, and made the city 
 Chios, inftead of Pfyra, to be forty fladia in circuit, p. 12. 
 
 B 2 The 
 
4 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 The poop of our boat was covered, and would contain three 
 perfons lying along or fitting. It was furniilied with arms, and 
 in a niche was a pidlure of the Panagia, of a faint, and of the 
 crucifixion, on boards, with a lamp burning in a lanthorn. This 
 feemed an eligible retreat from the noife and confufion on the opert 
 deck, where all hands were fully employed. The vefTel lliook, and 
 heeled to and fro excefilvely ; the violence of its motion fliifting 
 me from fide to fide feveral times, though I ftrove to preferve 
 my pofition unaltered. The captain at intervals looked in, and 
 invoked his deities to alTuage the wind and finooth the waves ; 
 or, proftrate on his belly, infpefted the compafs by the glim- 
 mering light of the lamp, and gave diredlions to the man at the 
 helm. The tardy morning, as it were, mocked our impatience, 
 while we continued beating the waves and tofling. At length 
 it dawned, when we found we had been driven from our courfe i 
 but the gale abated, leaving behind a very turbulent fwell.. 
 
 The following day was confumed in flanding to and fro 
 between the ifland Andros, and a cape now called D'Oro, but 
 antiently Caphareus, the fouthern promontory of Euboea toward 
 the Hellefpont ; once noted for dangerous currents, and the 
 deftrudlion of the Grecian fleet on its return from Troy. Before 
 midnight we gained a fmall port beyond it ; where we found at 
 day-break a couple of goat-herds, with their flocks, traces of a 
 wall, and of a chapel of the Panagia. On a rocky eminence 
 was the ruin of a pharos eredled, we were told, by a Corfair for 
 the benefit of fignals, and to facilitate his entering in the dark. 
 
 Ger^stus, the fouthern promontory of Euboea toward 
 Attica, was reckoned ten miles from Andros, and thirty-nine 
 from the ifland Cea. Between it and Caphareus was a city 
 named Caryftus, and near it a quarry, with a temple of T/ie 
 marble Apollo, from which they crolled to Als of Araphen in 
 Attica. The columns cut there were much efteemed and 
 celebrated for their beauty. It produced alfo a ftone, the 
 
 amianthus. 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 5 
 
 amianthus, which, when combed, was woven into towels. 
 Plutarch relates, that fome fibres only, or narrow threads, of this 
 fubftance were difcovered in his time ; but that towels made of 
 it, with nets and cawls ufed by women for their hair, were then 
 extant, and, when foiled, were thrown into a fire, by which 
 they were rendered white and clean, as by wadiing. We failed 
 by the town, which retains its antient name, in the morning. 
 It Hands at fome diftance from the fhore ; the houfes rifing on 
 the bare flope of a rocky hill. The inhabitants have a very bad 
 charadler. The lofty fummits of Oche, the mountain above 
 it, were covered with white clouds. 
 
 I N the evening we were again forced into a port or creek ; 
 but we had now gained the European continent, and were arrived 
 in Attica. We moored to a rock, on which was a ruined chapel 
 of the Panagia. This being Saturday, our mariners about funfet 
 bore thither Labdanum to be ufed as incenfe, with coals of 
 fire, and performed their cuftomary devotions. 
 
 CHAP. 11. 
 
 Set fail— Of Hydre — We pafs the ifland Helene---In the port of 
 Sunium — Of the to'wn — T^he temple of Minerva Sunias — 
 Hydriote veJJ'els. 
 
 Early in the morning we fleered with a favourable breeze 
 toward Sunium, a promontory of Attica fronting the iflands 
 called Cyclades and the iEgean fea j diftant three hundred ftadia 
 or thirty 'feven miles and a half from the fouthermojfl: promontory 
 of Euboea named Leuce or White. The fun arofe burnilhing the 
 filver deep, fkirted by the Attic and Peloponnefian coafts. We 
 had capes, mountains, and illands in view ; and among the latter, 
 the Hydriotes foon difcovered their native rock, which they be- 
 held, though bare and producing nothing, with the fame parti- 
 ality of affedion, as if it were adorned with the golden fruits and 
 perfumed by the aromatic gales of Scio ; pointing it out, and 
 expatiating on the liberty they pollefled there. 
 
 H Y D R E. 
 
6 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 H Y D R E or Hydrea Is on the coaft: of the Peloponnefus, and 
 has been mentioned as lying in the way from Scyllceum to 
 Hermione '. The inhabitants are maintained wholly by the fea, 
 to which the males are bred from their childhood. They now 
 pofTefled, as we were told, above an hundred and twenty boats 
 of various fizes, fome better armed for defence than feveral 
 Englifli veffels frequenting the Archipelago. They are accounted 
 the beft failors in the Levant, boldly navigating in rough weather, 
 and venturing to fea at night, if in danger of being intercepted 
 by an enemy or by pirates. They pay to the Grand Signior two 
 purfes yearly, as caratch or tribute-money ; which fum, with 
 expenfes, fees, and prefents, amounting nearly to two more, 
 is affeffed, at the rate of three piafters a houfe. The captain- 
 pafha fends a galeote from Paros with ollicers, who receive it, 
 and are entertained by a papas or Greek priell: at the monaftery by 
 the fea-fide, below the town. No Turk refides among them, and 
 they enjoy the ufe of bells to their churches, without controul ; 
 a privilege on which they enlarge, as if alike pregnant with 
 profit and delight. 
 
 We now approached Cape Sunium, which is fleep, abrupt, 
 and rocky. On it is the ruin of the temple of Minerva Sunias, 
 overlooking from its lofty fituation the fubjedl deep, and vifible 
 from afar. We often loft, and recovered again, the view of this 
 beautiful objedl; failing on a wide canal, between Attica and 
 Macronifi ' or Long IJlajid. This was called antiently Helene, 
 becaufe, it was faid, Helen had landed on it in her way to La- 
 cedaemon, after Troy was taken. It ranges, like Euboea, be- 
 fore the continent, and belonged to the Athenians ; but was of 
 little value, being rough and defert. It was reckoned about 
 
 ' Sailing from Scylixum to Hermione was Point Bucephala, then the iflands 
 Haliufa, Pityufa, and Arifteras ; then the cape called Acra, then theifland Tricrana, 
 then a mountain projedling into the fea, named Buporthmos, before which was 
 the ifland Aperopia, and near it Hydrea. Paufanias, p. 77. 
 
 * This ifland has been miftaken for the Cranae of Homer. Vid. Strab. p. 398. 
 Cellar, p. 830. 
 
 fixty 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 7 
 
 fixty ftadia, or feven miles and an half long ; five miles frotn 
 Sunium, and as many from Cea, which lies beyond it. 
 
 The waves, on our arrival near the promontory, broke gently, 
 with a hollow murmur, at the foot of the rock beneath the 
 temple. At the entrance of the fliining gulf was a little fleet 
 of Hydriote vefTels, eight in number, coming out with white 
 triangular fails. We anchored within the cape in the port of 
 Sunium, near three hours before mid-day ; and landing, afcend- 
 ed to the ruin. Meanwhile our failors, except two or three 
 who accompanied us, ftripped to their drawers to bathe, all of 
 them fwimming and diving remarkably well ; fome running 
 about on the fharp rocks with naked feet, as if void of feeling; 
 and fome examining the bottom of the clear water for the echinus 
 or fea-chefnut, a fpecies of ihell-fifh common on this coaft, and 
 now in perfedion, the moon being nearly at the full. 
 
 Sunium v/as one of the demi or burrough-towns of Attica, 
 belonging to the tribe named Attalis. It was fortified by the 
 Athenians in the Peloponnefian war ', as a fecure port for veflels 
 with provifions. The fite, which has been long deferted, is over- 
 run with bufhes of maftic, low cedars, and evergreens. The 
 wall may be traced, running along the brow from near the 
 temple, which it inclofed, down to the port. The mafonry 
 was of the fpecies termed Pfeudifodomum. The fteep precipices 
 and hanging rocks were a fufficient defence toward the mouth 
 of the gulf. Some other fragments of folid wall remain, but 
 nearly level with the ground. At the edge, near the port, the 
 rock is flielving, and refembles the cinder of a coal. There is 
 a round well, and farther off at the mountain-foot was a pond, 
 the water frefh, but hard and of a dark colour. 
 
 The temple of Minerva Sunias was of white marble, and 
 probably eredted in the fame happy period with the great 
 
 ' 4th Olymp. 91. Before Ch. 411. 
 
 temple 
 
8 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 temple of Minerva called the Parthenon in the acropolis at 
 Athens or in the time of Pericles, it having like proportions, 
 though far inferior in magnitude. The order is Doric, and it 
 appears to have been a fabric of exquifite beauty. It had fix 
 columns in front. Nine columns were Handing on the fouth- 
 weft fide in the year 1676, and five on the oppofite, with two 
 antx or pilafters at the fouth end, and part of the pronaos. The 
 number is now twelve, befides two in front and one of the 
 antJE ; the other lying in a heap, having been recently thrown 
 down, as we were informed, by the famous Jaffier Bey, then 
 captain of a Turkifh galeote, to get at the metal uniting the 
 flones. The ruin of the Pronaos is much diminiflied. The co- 
 lumns next to the fea are fcaled and damaged, owing to their 
 afped:. We fearched diligently for infcriptions, but without 
 fuccefs, except finding on the wall of the temple many modern 
 names, with the following memorial in Greek, cut in rude and 
 barbarous characters, but with fome labour : Onefwms remember- 
 ed his Sijier Chrejle. The old name Sunium is difufed, and the 
 cape diftinguiflied by its columns. Capo Colonni. 
 
 The Hydriote fleet, which had failed out of the gulf when 
 we arrived, returned on the following day, laden with corn 
 from Cea, purchafed for a Venetian armed fhip, captain Alex- 
 ander, who was then come to an anchor within the cape. This 
 being a contraband cargo, was to be delivered clandeftinely, and 
 we were informed the boats had given to the commander of a 
 Turkifh cruifer, which appeared in the offing, the fum offif-' 
 teen piafters each for his permifiion to fulfil their contradl with- 
 out moleftation. Sunium was reckoned three hundred and 
 thirty Itadia or forty-one miles aqd three quarters from the 
 PiriEus ' or port of Athens. 
 
 ' Strabo. In Pliny forty-two miles. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 Of the ijland JEgina — We fail by the ijland of Patroclus — 
 Our mariners — We arrive at JEgina — View from M. Panhel- 
 lenius— Story of JEacus — Temple of Jupiter — We fet fail for 
 the city of JEgina. 
 
 THE gulf included within the two promontories, Sunium 
 and Scyllaeum, contains feveral iflands, of which iEgina is the 
 principal. This ifland was furrounded by Attica, the Megaris 
 or territory of Megara, and the Peloponnefus ; each diftant 
 about one hundred ftadia, or twelve miles and a half. In cir- 
 cumference it was reckoned one hundred and eighty ftadia, or 
 twenty-two miles and a half. It was wafhed on the eaft and fouth 
 by the Myrtoan and Cretan feas. It is now called Eyina orEgina; 
 the g foft and the / fhort. *• What occafion is there, exclaims 
 Strabo, to mention, that this is one of the iflands which have 
 been exceflively renowned ? fmce it was the country of iEacus ; 
 it has enjoyed naval dominion ; and has difputed with Athens 
 the prize of l^uperior glory in the famous battle with the Perfian 
 fleet oiF Salamis." 
 
 The diftant hills continued hazy; but the wind being fair, 
 we embarked on the fecond evening after our landing at Sunium, 
 and fetting fail, pafTed very near to a fmall ifland called Gaitha- 
 ronefi {^Affes Ijland), a naked rock, except a few bunches of 
 thyme ; not even a flirub growing on it ; the clefts inhabited by 
 wild pigeons. It once bore the name of Patroclus, by whom it 
 was fortified with a wall and folTe. He was fent with fome 
 Egyptian triremes to aflift the Athenians againft Antigonus fon 
 of Demetrius. Sailing on, we had on our right hand the moun- 
 tain Laurium, formerly noted for filver mines. The coaft of 
 Attica was bare and of a parched afpedt. 
 
 C We 
 
10 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 We had now fea-room and a profperous gale. The genius of 
 the Greek nation prevailed, and was difplayed in the feftivity 
 of our mariners. One of the crew played on the violin and on 
 the lyre ; the latter, an ordinary inftrument with three firings, 
 differing from the kitara, which has two and a much longer 
 handle. The captain, though a bulky man, excelled, with two 
 of his boys, in dancing. We had been frequently amufed by 
 thefe adepts. It mattered not whether the vefTel was flill in 
 port, or rolling, as now, on the waves. They exerted an extra- 
 ordinary degree of adtivity, and preferved their footing, for" 
 which a very fmall fpace on the deck fufhced, with wonderful 
 dexterity. Their common dance, which was performed by one 
 couple, confifled chiefly in advancing and retiring, expanding 
 the arms, fnapping the fingers, and changing places ; with 
 feats, fome ludicrous, and to our apprehenfion indecent. 
 
 The fun fat very beautifully, illuminating the mountain- 
 tops, and was fucceeded by a bright moon in a blue fky. We 
 had a pleafant breeze, and the land in view, failing as it were 
 on a wide river. A fmart gale following a fhort calm, and 
 driving us along at a great rate, in the morning by fun-rife we 
 had reached ^Egina, and were entering a bay ; the mountain 
 Panhellenius, covered with trees, Hoping before us, and a temple 
 on its fummit, near an hour diflant from the fhore, appearing 
 as in a wood. The water being fhallow, a failor leaped over- 
 board, carrying a rope to be faflened, as ufual, to fome flone 
 or crag by the fea-fide. 
 
 We fet out for the temple, which was dedicated to Jupiter 
 Panhellenius, on foot, with a fervant and fome of the crew- 
 bearing our umbrellas and other neceffaries. One of the failors 
 had on a pair of fandals made of goat-fkin, the hairy fide out- 
 ward. The afcent was fleep, rough, and flony, between buflies 
 of maflic, young cedars, and fir-trees, which fccnted the air 
 very agreeably. Some trails were quite bare. On the emi- 
 nence 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. ii 
 
 nence our toil was rewarded by an extenfive view of the Attic 
 and Peloponnelian coails, the renaoter mountains inland, and 
 the fummits in the JEge^n. Sea; the bright furface, which inter- 
 vened, being fludded as it were with iflands ; many lying round 
 JEgina, toward the continent ; and one, called antiently Belbina, 
 ilretching out toward the mouth of the gulf. We faw diftindly 
 the acropolis of Athens, feated on a hill near the middle of a 
 plain, and encompaffed with mountains, except toward the fea j 
 a portion of its territory, covered with duflvV olive-groves, 
 looking black, as if under a dark cloud. 
 
 The name Panhellenius was probably given to this moun- 
 tain from the temple, for which only it was noted. That fa- 
 bric, as the ^Eginetans affirmed, was errdled by iEacus, the re- 
 nowned anceftor of the illuftripus family of the JEzc'idx. He 
 was reputed the fon of JEglns. the daughter of Afopus by Jupi- 
 ter, who tranfported her into this ifland, then uninhabited and 
 called Oenone. To omit the fabulous account of its popula- 
 tion ; in his time Hellas was terribly opprefTed by drought ; the 
 god raining neither on the country without the ifthmus, nor on. 
 the Peloponnefus. The Delphic oracle was confulted. The 
 Pythia replied, that Jupiter muft be rendered propitious by 
 iEacus. The cities intreated him to be their mediator. He 
 facrificed and prayed to Jupiter Panhellenius, and procured rain. 
 Paufanias relates, that he faw the flatues of the perfons de- 
 puted to attend him on that emergency, at the entrance of the 
 ^aceum, a quadrangular wall of white ftone, by the city, 
 inclofing fome antient olive-trees and a low altar; and alfo, 
 that the other Greeks then concurred in affigning that reafon 
 for the embafly. On a fummit of Mount Sciron in Attica was 
 a temple of Jupiter, furnamed Aphelius, from his remitting their 
 calamity ; and a ftatue of the Earth ' in a fuppliant pofture, re- 
 quefting Jupiter to fend her rain, which was in the acropolis at 
 Athens, referred, it is mod likely, to the fame flory. 
 
 ' Paufanias, p. 57, See Bryant's Mythology, p. 414. 
 
 C 2 The 
 
12 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 The temple of Jupiter Panhellenius is of the Doric order, 
 and had fix columns in front. It has twenty one of the exte- 
 rior columns yet ftanding j with the two in the front of the 
 pronaos and of the pofticum ; and five of the number, which 
 formed the ranges within the cell. The entablature, except the 
 architrave, is fallen. The ftone is of a light brownilh colour, 
 much eaten in many places, and by its decay witnefling a very 
 great age. Some of the columns have been injured by boring 
 to their centres for the metal. In feveral the jundlion of the 
 parts is fo exadt, that each feems to confifl: of one piece. Digg- 
 ing by a column of the portico of the naos, we difcovered a 
 fragment of fine fculpture. It was the hind-part of a greyhound, 
 of white marble, and belonged, it is probable, to the ornaments 
 fixed on the freeze, which has a groove in it, as for their infer- 
 tion. I fearched afterwards for this remnant, but found only a 
 fmall bit, with fome fpars ; fufficient to fhow that the trunk 
 had been broken and removed. The temple was inclofed by a 
 peribolus or wall, of which traces are extant. We confidered 
 this ruin as a very curious article, fcarcely to be paralleled in its 
 claim to remote antiquity. The fituation on a lonely mountain, 
 at a diftance from the fea, has preferved it from total demolition 
 amid all the changes and accidents of numerous centuries. 
 Since the worfhip of Jupiter has been abolifhed, and iEacus 
 forgotten, that has been its principal protedlion ; and will, it is 
 likely, in fome degree prolong its duration to ages yet remote. 
 
 ■We continued our journies up the mountain, until our work 
 was done, fetting out before fun-rife and returning to our bark 
 in the evening. The heat of noon, during which we repofed 
 under a tree or in the (hade of the temple, was exceffive. A 
 fouth-eafterly wind fucceeded, blowing freih, and murmuring 
 amufively among the pines. On the third day toward evening, 
 we defcended to the fhore, embarked haftily and unmoored ; 
 bringing away the carcafe of a pig on a wooden fpit, half roaft- 
 ed. We were apprehenfive left the wind, which at that feafon 
 
 commonly 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 13 
 
 commonly fets into the gulf in the day-time, and comes in 
 a contrary diredlion foon after funfet, fhould fail, before we 
 could reach the port of the antient city. The boys mounted to 
 the fharp ends of the yards, high in air above the marts, undid 
 the knots of the fails, which were furled ; and tied them anew 
 with rufhes. We were towed out of the bay, and then pulling 
 the ropes, the ruihes breaking fell down, and the canvafs fpread. 
 
 CHAP. IV, 
 
 Shoals and rocks — A phanotnenon — We' anchor in the mole of 
 Mgina — Of the city — Of the barrow of P hocus — Phreattys — 
 Of Oea — I'he prefent town — The ijland. 
 
 WE parted round the eartern end of the ifland, near a point- 
 ed rock called Turlo, and fometimes miftaken for a veflel under 
 fail ; the city i^gina fronting Libs or the fouth-weft. The 
 coaft was moftly abrupt and inacceflible ; the land within, moun- 
 tainous and woody. Our crew was for fome time engaged \vi 
 looking out for one of the lurking ftioals, with which it is en- 
 vironed. Thefe, and the fingle rocks extant above the furface, 
 are fo many in number, and their pofition fo dangerous, that 
 the navigation to iEgina was antiently reckoned more difficult 
 than to any other of the iflands. The iEginetans, indeed, faid, 
 they were purpofely contrived, and difpofed by ^Eacus to protedt 
 their property from piratical robbers, and for a terror to their 
 enemies. 
 
 We were now amufed by a very ftriking phasnomenon. 
 The fun was fetting ; and the moon, then rifen in the eartern 
 or oppofite portion of the hemifphere, was feen adorned as 
 it were with the beams of that glorious luminary, which ap- 
 peared, probably from the reflexion or refradlion of the atmo- 
 fphere, not as ufual, but inverted, the fharp end pointing to the 
 horizon, and the ray widening upwards. 
 
 The 
 
14 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 The evening was hazy, and the mountain-tops on the weft 
 and north-weft enveloped in clouds ; from which proceeded 
 lightning, pale and forky, or refembling the expanfion of a ball 
 of fire. We were becalmed for a few minutes, but the breeze 
 returned, and we moved pleafantly along ; the fplendid moon 
 difcloling the folemn hills, and the fea as bright as placid. We 
 now tacked, and ftanding to the north- weft, came to a barrow 
 near the ftiore ; and then doubling a low point of land, caft an- 
 chor, about three hours after fun-fet, by a veffel within the 
 mole of the city iEgina. 
 
 The maritime genius of the old ^ginetans was founded, 
 like that of the prefent Hydriotes, upon neceftity. This too 
 produced among them the invention of iilver coinage ; their 
 commerce requiring a medium, and their country furniftiing 
 only fuch unimportant articles for exportation, as rendered the 
 venders proverbially contemptible. With this difadvantage did 
 the city iEgina become a rival of its neighbour Athens. Its 
 fite, which has been long forfaken, was now naked, except a 
 few wild fig-trees, and fome fences made by piling the loofe 
 ftones. It had produced corn, and was not cleared from the 
 flubble. Inftead of the temples mentioned by Paufanias, we had 
 in view thirteen lonely churches, all very mean, as ufual ; and 
 two Doric columns fupporting their architrave. Thefe ftand by 
 the fea-fide toward the low cape ; and, it has been fuppofed, 
 are a remnant of a temple of Venus, which was fituatcd by the 
 port principally frequented. The theatre, which is recorded 
 as worth feeing, refembled that of the Epidaurians both in fize 
 and workmanftiip. It was not far from the private port ; the 
 ftadium, which, like that at Priene, was conftruded with only 
 one fide, being joined to it behind, and each ftrudlure mutually 
 fuftaining and propping the other. The walls belonging to the 
 ports and arfenal were of excellent mafonry, and may be 
 iraced to a confiderable extent, above, or nearly even with the 
 water. At the entrance of the mole, on the left, is a fmall 
 
 chapel 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 15' 
 
 chapel of St. Nicholas ; and oppofite, a fquare tower with fteps 
 before it, detached, from which a bridge was laid acrofs, to be 
 removed on any alarm. This ftrudlure, which is mean, was 
 eredled by the Venetians, while at war with the Turks, in 1693, 
 as appears by an infcription cut in large charadters on a piece of 
 veined marble fixed in the wall. I copied it as exadly as its 
 height and the powerful refledion of the fun would permit. 
 Some letters remain of a more antient infcription in Greek. 
 
 DxO 0APVI02 
 
 FRANCISCI MAVROCENr 
 DVCISVENET Sc' CGMIVSSV 
 ALOYISIOM OCENICO 
 C. GVLPHI CVRANTE 
 E R E C T A 
 A. MD CXCIIL 
 
 The barrow, which we faw on the fliore, was probably that 
 once by the i^^aceum. It was defigned, it is related, for Pho- 
 cus, and its hiftory as follows. Telamon and Peleus, fons of 
 .^acus, challenged their half-brother Phocus to contend in the 
 Pentathlum. In throwing the ftone, which ferved as a quoit, 
 Peleus hit Phocus, who was killed ; when both of them fled. 
 Afterwards, Telamon fent a herald to affert his innocence, 
 ^acus would not fuffer him to land, or to apologize, except 
 from the vefTel ; or, if he chofe rather, from a heap caft up in 
 the water. Telamon, entering the private port by night, raifed a 
 barrow, as a token, it is likely, of a pious regard for the deceafed. 
 He was afterwards condemned, as not free from guilt j and failed 
 away again to Salamis. The barrow in the fecond century, when 
 feen by Paufanias, was furrounded with a fence, and had on it a 
 rough ftone. The terror of fome dreadful judgement to be inflic- 
 ted from heaven had preferved it entire and unaltered to his 
 time J and in a country depopulated and negleded, it may ftill 
 endure for many ages. 
 
 The 
 
i^ TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 The form of trial inftituted on this occafion pafled early into 
 Attica ; where by the fea-fide, without the Piraeus, at a place 
 called Phreattys, was a tribunal, at which fugitives for involun- 
 tary murder were permitted to appear on any new accufation and 
 to plead from their velfel ; the judges fitting on the fliore. 
 They were puniflied, if found guilty ; but if acquitted, had 
 liberty to depart and fulfil the term of their banifhment. 
 
 THE'^ginetans preferved two famous ftatues, named Damia 
 and Auxefia, or Ceres and Proferpine, at Oea, twenty ftadia or 
 two miles and a half from the city. The Athenians demanded 
 the yearly offerings, which the Epidaurians, from whom they 
 were taken, had agreed to make to Minerva Polias and 
 Eredtheus j or the images, which they regarded as their 
 property, being formed of their facred Olive, by command of 
 the Delphic oracle. Their difpute is recorded by Herodotus ; 
 and Paufanias, in the fecond century, relates, that he faw the 
 goddefles and facrificed to them as at Eleufis. 
 
 The prefent town. It may be conjedlured, was Oea. It 
 ftands on the acclivity of a fteep rock ; which perhaps was pre- 
 ferred to the old fite, as lefs expofed to the ravages of corfairs 
 and other plunderers. It is in the way to the mountain Pan- 
 hellenius, from which it is feparated by a narrow valley, which 
 winds and runs far into the ifland. It is diftant about three 
 quarters of an hour from the fea, where neareft, the track narrow 
 and rough. The houfes are mean, in number about four hundred, 
 fifing on the flope, with flat roofs and terraces of gravel. It is 
 remarkably free from gnats and other troublcfome infeds. The 
 wells afford good water, but the air is accounted unhealthy. 
 On a fummit above the town are fome windmills, and ciflerns 
 or refervoirs, with the rubbifh of a fortrefs erefted by the 
 Venetians in 1654. The houfes, which in 1676 amounted to 
 about fourfcore, have been demoliflied, with the two churches ; 
 one of which was for the Latin or Catholic Greeks, and had in 
 
 it 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 17 
 
 It a monument of a Venetian governor, of marble. The i^gine- 
 tans have a bifhop, and fo many churches, fcattered over the 
 ifland, that, as they affirm, the number equals the days in the 
 year. We had this place in view at the temple of Jupiter, and 
 afterwards I paffed two days in it with a Greek of Athens, the 
 governor; no Turk refiding there. I then re-viiited the ruin, 
 and was near an hour and a half riding to it, though in a ftrait 
 line it is not far off. I was mounted on a low mule, with a 
 guide on foot, the track rough and bad. 
 
 The foil of ^^gina is, as defcribed by Strabo, very ftony, 
 efpecially the bottoms, and naked, but in fome places not 
 unfertile in grain. Befides corn, it produces olives, grapes, ani 
 plenty of almonds. Perhaps no ifland abounds more in doves, 
 pigeons, and partridges. Of the latter, which have red legs, we 
 fprung feveral covies ; and our caraboucheri or captain caught 
 one with his hands. It has been related, that the ^Eginetans 
 annually wage war with the feathered race, carefully colledling 
 or breaking their eggs, to prevent their multiplying, and in 
 confequence a yearly famine. They have no hares, foxes, or 
 wolves. The rivers in fummer are all dry. The vaiwode or 
 governor farmed the revenue of the Grand Siguier for twelve 
 purfes '. About half this fum was repaid yearly by the caratch- 
 money, or poll-tax. 
 
 » A purfe is 500 piafters. 
 
 D CHAP. 
 
i8 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 C H A P. V. 
 
 We arrive in the Firaiis — Of the ports of Athens— '-Pbakrum 
 and Miinychia — Remark on Fhalerum — Pirceus — the town 
 — 7"//^ long ivalls — Other fortifications — 'Their fate under the 
 Romatis — Prefent fate of Phalerum and Munychia — Of the 
 Pirceus — Infcriptions. 
 
 THE vicinity of ^Eglna made Pericles ftyle it the eye-fore 
 of the Piraeus. It was diftant only twenty miles. We failed 
 in the afternoon with a fair wind, and in the evening anchored 
 in this renowned haven. We were hailed from the cuftom- 
 houfe, and the captain went on fhore. On his return, we had 
 the fatisfadtion to hear that the plague had not reached Athens. 
 We intrufted our recommendatory letters to a perfon departing 
 for the city. Some Greeks, to whom the captain had notified 
 his arrival, came on board early in the morning. The wine 
 circulated brifkly, and their meeting was celebrated, as ufual 
 among this lively people, with finging, fiddling, and dancing. 
 We left them, and were landed by the cuftom-houfe, exceed- 
 ingly flruck with the folemn filence and folitude of this once 
 crouded emporium. 
 
 Athens had three ports near each other, the Piraeus, 
 Munychia, and Phalerum. Of thefe the Piraeus is formed by a 
 recefs of the fhore, which winds, and by a fmall rocky Penin- 
 fula fpreading toward the fea. A craggy brow, called Munychia, 
 feparates it from the Phalerian and Munychian ports, which 
 indent the narrow ifthmus, on the oppofite or eaftern fide. It was 
 an antient tradition that this whole peninfula had been an illand 
 lying before the coaft. The city was not more than twenty 
 ftadia or two miles and a half from the fea by Phalerum -, but 
 the diftance is perhaps increafed. From the port it was thirty 
 five ftadia, or four miles a quarter and a half; and more from 
 
 Munychia, 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE, 
 
 19 
 
 Munychia, which is beyond. From the Piraeus it was forty ftadia 
 or five miles, and, it is related, the city-port was once as far. 
 
 Phalerum was faid to have been named from Phalerus, a 
 companion of Jafon in the Argonautic expedition. Thefeus 
 failed from it for Crete; and Meneftheus, his fucceffor, for 
 Troy ; and it continued to be the haven of Athens to the time 
 of Themiftocles. It is a fmall port, of a circular form, the 
 entrance narrow, the bottom a clean fine fand, vifible through 
 the tranfparent water. The farm of Ariftides and his monu- 
 ment, which was eredted at the public expenfe, were by this 
 port. Munychia is of a different form or oval, and more 
 confiderable ; the mouth alfo narrow. 
 
 The traveller accuftomed to deep ports and bulky fhipping 
 may view Phalerum with fome furprize j but Argo is faid to 
 have been carried on the fhoulders of the crew ; the veffels at 
 the fiege of Troy were drawn up on the fhore, as a bullwark, 
 before the camp ; and the mighty fleet of Xerxes confifted 
 chiefly of light barks and gallies. Phalerum, though a bafin, 
 {hallow and not large, may perhaps even now be capable of 
 receiving an armament like that of Menefl:heus, though it con- 
 fifted of fifty {hips. 
 
 The capital port was that called Pirasus. The entrance of 
 this is narrow, and formed by two rocky points -, one belonging 
 to the promontory of Eetion ; the other, to that of Alcimus. 
 Within were three flations for fliipping ; Kantharus, fo named 
 from a hero; Aphrodifium, from a temple of Venus; and Zea, the 
 refort of vefl!els laden with grain. By it was a demos or borough- 
 town of the fame name before the time of Themifiocles, who 
 recommended the exchanging its triple harbour for the fingle 
 one of Phalerum, both as more capacious, and as better fituated 
 for navigators. The wall was begun by him, when Archon, in 
 the fecond year of the feventy-fifth Olympiad, four hundred and 
 feventy feven years before Chri{l ; and afterwards he urged the 
 
 . . D 2 Athenians 
 
20 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 Athenians to complete it, as the importance of the place 
 deferved. This whole fortification was of hewn ftone, without 
 cement or other material ; except lead and iron, which were 
 ufed to hold together the exterior ranges or facings. It was fo 
 wide that the loaded carts could pafs on it in different diredions; 
 and it was forty cubits high, which was about half what he had 
 defigned. The bones of this great man, when tranfported from 
 Magnefia by the Maeander, were, with propriety, depofited in. 
 the Piraeus, near the biggcft port, probably Kantharus, by which 
 were the arfenals. " When you are got within the elbow, 
 which projedls from the promontory of Alcimus, where the 
 water is fmooth, you are near the fite of his tomb." It was ia 
 fhape like an altar or round, and on a large bafement. 
 
 The Piraeus, as Athens flourifhed, became the common 
 emporium of all Greece. Hippodamus an architetS, celebrated, 
 befides other monuments of his genius, as the inventor of many 
 improvements in houfe-building, was employed to lay out the 
 ground. Five porticoes, which uniting formed the long portico, 
 were eredled by the ports. Here was an agora or market-place i 
 and farther from the fea, another called Hippodamia. By the 
 veflels were dwellings for the mariners. A theatre was opened, 
 temples were raifed, and the Piraeus, which furpaffed the city in 
 utility, began to equal it in dignity. The cavities and windings 
 of Munychia, natural and artificial, were filled with houfes ; 
 and the whole fettlement, comprehending Phalerum and the 
 ports of the Piraeus, with the arfenals, the ftore-houfes, the 
 famous armoury, of which Philo was the architect, and the 
 fheds for three hundred, and afterwards four hundred, triremes, 
 refembled the city of Rhodes, which had been planned by the 
 fame Hippodamus. The ports, on the commencement of the 
 Peloponnefian war, were fecured with chains. Centinels were 
 ftationed, and the PiriEUS was carefully guarded. 
 
 I T was the defign of Themiflocles to annex the Pirzeus to 
 the city by long walls. The fide defcending to Phalerum was 
 
 begun 
 
2'o_/fire /i'lo. 
 
 T. £i/( Am J^^iip ■ 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 21 
 
 begun. Cimon then furnillied money, and made a foundation 
 with chalk and maflive flones, where the ground was wet and 
 marfhy. Pericles completed it, and eredled the oppofite wall. 
 The Peloponnefian war impending, he was attentive to the 
 fortifications in general. Callicrates was his archited:. 
 
 The four hundred tyrants, who in the firft year of the 
 ninety-fecond Olympiad ' ufurped the government of Athens, 
 knowing that their power depended on the pofleflion of the 
 Piraeus, walled about the promontory Eetion. Soon after the 
 Lacedaemonians infifled on the demolition of the long walls, 
 except only ten ftadia, or a mile and a quarter, on each fide j 
 and obtained it under the thirty tyrants *. Thrafybulus, the 
 brave patriot by whom thefe were expelled, fortified Munychia. 
 Conon refolved to reftore the walls of the Piraeus and the long 
 icalls ; and Demofthenes, to render the Piraeus yet more fecure, 
 added a double fofle. 
 
 The Piraeus was reduced with great difficulty by Sylla, who 
 demolifhed the walls, and fet fire to the armoury and arfenals. 
 In the civil war it was in a defencelefs condition. Calenus, 
 lieutenant to Caefar, feized it, inverted Athens, and ravaged the 
 territory. Strabo, who lived under the emperors Auguftus and 
 Tiberius, obferves, that the many wars had deftroyed the long 
 nvallst with the fortrefs of Munychia, and had contracted the 
 Piraeus into a fmall fettlement by the ports and the temple of 
 Jupiter Saviour. This fabric was then adorned with wonderful 
 pidlures, the works of illufi:rious artifts ; and on the outfide, 
 with ftatues. In the fecond century, befides houfes for tri- 
 remes, the temple of Jupiter and Minerva remained, with their 
 images in brafs ; and a temple of Venus, a portico, and the 
 tomb of Themiftocles. By Munychia was then a temple of 
 Diana. By Phalerum was a temple of Ceres, of Minerva, and, 
 
 ' Before Chrift, 410. 
 
 ' The city had expended not lefs than 1000 talents on the arfenal. They fold it 
 to be renaoved for three talents. It was reftored by Lycurgus. 
 
 at 
 
22 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 at a diftance, of Jupiter ; with altars of the unknown gods and 
 of the heroes. 
 
 We found by Phalerum and Munychia a few fragments, with 
 rubbifli. Some pieces of columns and a ruined church probably 
 mark the fite of one of the temples. In many places the rock, 
 which is naked', has been cut away. On the brow toward 
 Munychia a narrow ridge is left ftanding, with fmall niches and 
 grooves cut in it, as by the lake of Myus, perhaps to receive 
 the offerings made to the marine deities on landing ; or before 
 embarking, to render them propitious ; and for the infertion of 
 votive tablets, as memorials of diftrefs and of their affiftance. 
 One ftone is hollowed fo as to refemble a centry-box. The 
 walling of the Piraeus muft have been greatly expedited by thefe 
 quarries, which are mentioned by Xenophon. At Phalerum the 
 foil appeared (hallow, but produces corn. No trees or buflaes 
 grow there. 
 
 The port of the Pirseus has been named Porto Lione, 
 from the marble lion feen in the chart, and alfo Porto Draco. 
 The lion has been defcribed as a piece of admirable fculpturc, 
 ten feet high ; and as repofing on its hinder parts. It was 
 pierced, and, as fome have conjedlured, had belonged to a 
 fountain. Near Athens, in the way to Eleufis, was another, 
 the pofture couchant, probably its companion. Both thefe were 
 removed to Venice by the famous general Morofini ', and are 
 to be feen there, before the arfenal. At the mouth of the port 
 are two ruined piers. A few vefTels, moftly fmall-craft, frequent 
 it. Some low land at the head feems an incroachment on the 
 water. The buildings are a mean cuftom-houfe, with a few 
 fheds J and by the fhore on the eaft fide, a warehoufe belonging 
 to the French; and a Greek monaftery dedicated to St. Spiridion. 
 On the oppofite fide is a rocky ridge, on which are remnants 
 of the antient wall, and of a gateway toward Athens, By the 
 
 * See Mufeum Vcnetianum, t. 2. 
 
 water 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 23 
 
 water edge are veftiges of building ; and going from the cuftom- 
 houfe to the city on the right hand, traces of a fmall theatre in 
 the fide of the hill of Munychia '. 
 
 One of the marbles, which we brought from Athens, 
 relates to the fale of this theatre j containing a decree for crown- 
 ing with olive a perfon, who had procured an advance in the 
 price ; and alfo for crowning the buyers, four in number. On 
 another marble, the honour of a front feat in the theatre, with 
 an olive-crown and feveral immunities and privileges, is con- 
 ferred on one Callidamus; and it is enadled, that the crown be 
 proclaimed by the herald in the full aflembly, to demonflrate 
 that the Piraeenfians had a proper regard for men of merit. This 
 infcription is not more remarkable for its antiquity, which is 
 very great, than for its fine prefervation, being as fair as when 
 firft repofited in the temple of Vefta. A third contained the 
 conditions, on which the Pirsenfians leafed out the fea-fhore, 
 and falt-marfiies, the Thefeum and other facred portions. It is 
 dated in the archonfliip of Archippus, about three hundred and 
 eighteen years before Chrift. 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 We Jet out for Athens — Two roads defer ibed by Paufanias — The 
 barrow of Euripides — The public cijlerns — M. Lycabettus — 
 We arrive at the French convent — Reception at Athens. 
 
 AFTER viewing the monaftery of St. Spiridion and the 
 ports, we returned to the cuftom-houfe, and waited to hear 
 from Athens, not without fome impatience. We faw the 
 Acropolis or citadel, with the great temple of Minerva, from 
 the window. An archon, named lanachi Ifofime, to whom we 
 had fent, arrived before noon, attended by a fervant, to welcome 
 
 ' It is mentioned by Thucydides, Xenophon, and the orator Lyfias. Meurfii 
 PirauSf p, 1940. 
 
 US i 
 
24 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 us ; and was followed by a capuchin-friar, then refiding in 
 the French convent at Athens. We were detained until the 
 fun was on the decline, when we fet forward, mounted on alTes 
 or on horfes laden with our baggage. 
 
 Pausanias defcribes two ways from the ports to Athens. 
 By the road from Phalerum was a temple and ftatue of Juno, 
 the building half-burned, and without a door or roof; remaining, 
 with a temple of Ceres by the port, unrepaired, as a memorial 
 of the enmity of the barbarians under Mardonius. By the 
 entrance of the city was a tomb of the Amazon Antiope. On 
 the other road, which led from the Pirsus, were ruins of the 
 walls eredled by Conon -, with fepulchral monuments, among 
 which, thofe of Menander and Euripides were the mofl noted. 
 That of the latter poet was a cenotaph or mound of earth with- 
 out his afhes. By the city-gate was the fepulchre of a foldier, 
 who was reprefented ftanding near his horfe, the fculpture by 
 Praxiteles. The inclofures, which now intervene, may have 
 occafioned fome fmall alteration in the courfe of the two 
 roads. They were nearly in the fame diredion, and not 
 far afunder. 
 
 After paffing the fite of the theatre and the termination 
 of the rocky peninfula, we had on the right hand a level fpot 
 covered with ftones, where, it is probable, was the remoter agora 
 of the Pirseus. Farther on by the road-fide is a clear area within 
 a low mound, formed perhaps by concealed rubbifh of the walls 
 of the temple of Juno. We then entered among vineyards and 
 cotton-grounds, with groves of olive-trees. On one fide rifes 
 a large barrow, it is likely, the cenotaph of Euripides. In a tree 
 was a kind of couch, fheltered with boughs, belonging to a man 
 employed to watch there during the vintage. The foul weather 
 we experienced at fea had extended to Attica, where heavy 
 fhowers had fallen, with terrible thunder and lightning, flooding 
 the land, and doing much damage. An Albanian peafant was 
 expe(5ting the return of the archon, who was one of the annual 
 
 magiftrates 
 

 ,#^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 T I! 
 
 I 'i 
 
 V 
 
 "fff 
 
 'l^^nmirr^ 
 
 
 y< 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 25 
 
 magiftrates called Epitropi or Procurators, with a prefent of very 
 fine grapes, on which we regaled ; and another, who was retiring 
 with his leather bucket, hanging flaccid at his back, enabled 
 us to get water from a well about mid-way. 
 
 Bey ON D the vineyards are the public ciflerns, from which 
 water is difpenfed to the gardens and trees below, by diredtion 
 of the owners, each paying by the hour, the price rifing and. 
 falling in proportion to the fcarcity or abundance. In the 
 front is a weeping willow, by which is inferted a marble with 
 an antient fepulchral infcription in fair charadters. Beyond the 
 cifterns is the mountain once called Lycabettus, lying before 
 the Acropolis. It is bare or covered with wild fage and 
 plants, except where the fcanty foil will admit the plough. It 
 was formerly in repute for olives. We faw behind the cifterns 
 a marble ftatue, fedent ; as we fuppofed, of a philofopher. Ijt 
 was funk in the ground and the face much injured, but, we 
 were told, had been difcovered, not many years before, entire. 
 
 The road, dividing at the cifterns, branches through the 
 plain, which is open and of a barren afped:. The way to the 
 left of Lycabettus, which antiently led to the Piraean gate, now 
 pafTes on between the folitary temple of Thefeus, and the naked 
 hill of the Areopagus, where the town begins. On that fide 
 is alfo a track leading over Lycabettus. We proceeded by the 
 way to the right, on which, at fome diftance from the cifterns, 
 is an opening in the mountain, and a rocky road worn with 
 wheels, feparating the hill of the Mufeum from Lycabettus, 
 and once leading to the Melitenfian gate, which was before the 
 Acropolis. 
 
 W E kept on in the plain, and crofted the dry bed of the 
 Iliflus. On our left were the door-ways of antient fepulchres 
 hewn out in the rock ; the Mufeum, and on it the marble 
 monument of Philopappus ; and then the lofty Acropolis, 
 beneath which we pafled. Before us was a temple ftanding on 
 
 E the 
 
26 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 the farther bank of the Iliflus ; and fome tall columns, of vaft 
 fize, the remains of the temple of Jupiter Olympius. We 
 arrived at the French convent, which is at this extremity 
 of the town, infinitely delighted and awed by the majefty of 
 fituation, the folemnity and grandeur of ruin, which had 
 met us. 
 
 Early in the morning we were vifited by the French 
 conful, Monlieur de Gafpari ; and by the archons or principal 
 Greeks in a body. With the latter came an Italian named 
 Lombardi, who had refided feveral years at Athens, and who 
 was known to one of my companions. This man was well 
 received by the Turks, who regarded him as a Mahometan, and 
 as he affedled humility and poverty, had beftowed on him the 
 appellation of Dervifi. He offered to ferve us, and we found 
 it our interefl to employ him. He attended us on our vifit of 
 ceremony to Achmet Aga, the chief Turk of Athens ; to the 
 vaiwode or governor of the city ; to the difdar or ofHcer who 
 commands in the Acropolis -, to the mufti -, the archbi£hop, and 
 archons j interpreted for us, and adjufled the prefents neceffary 
 to be made for the purchafe of permiflion to examine the anti- 
 quities and of protedlion during our flay j with the fmaller 
 gratuities to inferior perfons. We were pleafed with the civil 
 behaviour of the people in general, and enjoyed a tranquillity ta 
 which we had long been ftrangers. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 27 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 '^he city of Cecrops — Atheiis burned by the Perfians, &c. — 
 Under the Macedonians — Receives a Roman garrifon — Defaced 
 by Sylla — State under the Roman emperors — Governed by 
 a pro-conful — Kindnefs of Hadrian — "T" he city -wall refored — - 
 Bejieged and taken — Favoured by Conjiantine the Great — In 
 danger from the Goths — Sacked by Alaric — A chafm in its 
 hijlory — 'Under various majiers after the twelfth century-— 
 Uiiknown in the fxteenth — Antient extent of the walls. 
 
 I T was the boaft of the early Athenians, that their origin 
 was from the land which they inhabited, and their antiquity 
 co-equal with the fun. The reputed founder of their city was 
 Cecrops, who, uniting a body of the natives ' then living dif- 
 perfed and in caves, fettled on the rock of the Acropolis. He 
 was there fecure from inundation, a calamity much dreaded 
 after the deluge which had happened under Ogyges, one hundred 
 and ninety years before. The hill was nearly in the centre of 
 -his little territory ; rifing majeftically in the middle of the 
 plain, as if defigned by nature for the feat of government. 
 The town and its domain were called Cecropia, but the name 
 of the former was afterwards changed in honour of Minerva. 
 Her difpute with Neptune was faid to have happened in this 
 reign, and on the fecond day of the month called Boedromion. 
 Neptune difplayed his power by flriking the rock with his 
 trident, when falt-water arofe ; and Minerva, by producing the 
 olive-tree, which, it is related, was long peculiar to Attica. 
 This town was watered by a copious fountain, which failed 
 after an earthquake. Beneath it, lived artificers and hufband- 
 men, chiefly on the fouth fide, until the time of Thefeus j the 
 houfes not fpreading then in every diredtion round about, as in 
 fubfequent ages. A wandering people, called Pelafgi, were firft 
 
 » Before Troy was taken, 355 years. 
 
 E 2 employed 
 
28 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 employed to level the fummit of the rock, and to encompafs it 
 with a wall, which they completed, except on the fouth, where 
 the deficiency was fupplied by trunks of olive-trees and pali- 
 fades. The entrance was by nine gates. Afterwards Cimon, 
 fon of Miltiades, ereded the wall on the fouth fide with the* 
 fpoils he had taken in the Perfian war. 
 
 The tyranny of Pififtratus was eftabliflicd by his getting 
 polTeflion of the Acropolis or citadel, from which he could 
 command and overawe the town below. His fon Hippias was 
 expelled, and then followed the invafion by Darius, and the 
 battle of Marathon. Thirty three years after this, Athens was 
 taken, and fet on fire by Xerxes ; and in the next year, by his 
 general Mardonius -, but, on the victories of Plataea and Salamis, 
 it emerged from ruin to fuperior luftre and extended dominion. 
 The Peloponnefian war then enfued ; the long walls were demo- 
 lifhed ; and it was even propofed to raze the city and lay wafte 
 the plain. 
 
 The vidory obtained over the Thebans at Mantinea left 
 Athens at leifure to indulge in elegant diffipation. A poet was 
 preferred to a general, and vafl: fums were expended on plays and 
 public fpedlacles. At this period Philip of Macedonia was 
 afpiring to the empire of Greece and Afia. Alexander, his fon, 
 facrificed an hecatomb to Minerva at Athens, and fortified the 
 Piraeus to keep the city in fubjedion. On his death the Athe- 
 nians revolted, but were defeated by Antipater, who garrifoned 
 Munychia. They rebelled again, but the garrifon and oligarchy 
 were re-inflated. Demetrius ' the Phalerean, who was made 
 governor, beautified the city, and they ereded to him three 
 hundred and fixty ftatues, which, on his expulfion, they 
 demolifhed ; except one in the Acropolis. Demetrius Polior- 
 cetes withdrew the garrifon and reftored the democracy, when 
 
 I This Demetrius was author of the antient and famous Chronicon infcribed 
 on marble at Paros, and now preferved, but not entire, at Oxford. See Daniel a 
 LXX, p, 480. Rome, I'j'jz, 
 
 they 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 29 
 
 they deified him, and lodged him in the Opifthodomos or the 
 back part of the Parthenon, as a gueft to be entertained by their 
 Minerva. Afterwards they decreed, that the Piraeus, with, 
 Munychia, fliould be at his difpofal -, and he took the Mufeum. 
 They expelled his garrifon, and he was perfuaded by Craterus a 
 philofopher, to leave them free. Antigonus Gonatas, the next 
 king, maintained a garrifon in Athens ; but on the death of 
 his fon Demetrius, the people, with the afliftance of Aratus, 
 regained their liberty j and the Piraeus, Munychia, Salamis, and 
 Sunium, on paying a fum of money. 
 
 Philip, fon of Demetrius, encamping near the city, de- 
 flroying and burning the fepulchres and temples in the villages, 
 and laying their territory wafte, the Athenians were reduced to 
 follicit protedlion from the Romans, and to receive a garrifon, 
 which remained until the war with Mithridates, king of Pontus,, 
 when the tyrant Ariftion made them revolt. 
 
 Archelaus, the Athenian general, unable to withftand the 
 Roman fury, relinquiflied the long walls, and retreated into the 
 Piraeus and Munychia. Sylla laid fiege to the Piraeus, and to 
 the city, in which Ariftion commanded. He was informed, 
 that fome perfons had been overheard talking in the Ceramicus 
 and blaming Ariftion for his negledt of the avenues about the 
 Heptachalcos, where the wall was acceflible. Sylla refolved to 
 ftorm there, and about midnight entered the town at the gate 
 called Dipylon or the Piraean j having levelled all obftacles in 
 the way between it and the gate of the Piraeus. Ariftion fled 
 to the Acropolis, but was compelled to furrender by the want 
 of water, when he was dragged from the temple of Minerva 
 and put to death. Sylla burned the Piraeus and Munychia, 
 and defaced the city and fuburbs, not fparing even the fe- 
 pulchres. 
 
 In the civil war, the Athenians took the fide of Pompey. 
 Caefar generoufly refufed to punifh the city, which afterwards 
 
 careflcd 
 
3© TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 carelled his murderers. They next joined Antony, who gave them 
 iEgina and Cea, with other iflands. Auguflus was unkind to 
 them, and they revolted, four years before he died. Under 
 Tiberius, the city was declining, but free, and regarded as an 
 ally of the Romans. The high privilege of having a lidlor to 
 precede the magiftrates was conferred on it by Germanicus j 
 but he was cenfured as treating with too much condefcenfion a 
 mixture of nations, inftead of genuine Athenians, which race 
 was then confidered as extindl. 
 
 The emperor Vefpafian reduced Achaia to a province paying 
 tribute and governed by a pro-conful. Nerva was more propiti- 
 ous to the Athenians ; and Pliny, under Trajan his fucceflbr, 
 exhorts Maximus to be mindful whither he was fent, to rule 
 genuine Greece, a flate compofed of free cities. *' You will 
 " revere the gods and heroes their founders. You will refpedt 
 '•' their priftine glory and even their age. You will honour them 
 *' for the famous deeds, which are truly, nay for thofe which 
 ** are fabuloufly, recorded of them. Remember, it is Athens you 
 *' approach." This city was now entirely dependent on Rome, 
 and was reduced to fell Delos and the iflands in its polTefTion. 
 
 Hadrian, who was at once emperor and an archon of 
 Athens, gave the city laws compiled from Draco, Solon, and 
 the codes of other legiflators ; and difplayed his affed;ion for it 
 by unbounded liberality. Athens reflouriftied, and its beauty 
 was renewed. Antoninus Pius, who fucceeded, and Antoninus 
 the philofopher, were alfo benefactors. 
 
 The Barbarians, in the reign of Valerian, befieging Thefla- 
 lonica, all Greece was terrified, and the Athenians reftored their 
 city-wall, which had been difmantled by Sylla, and afterwards 
 negleded. 
 
 Under the next emperor, who was the archon Gallienus, 
 Athens was befieged, the archontic office ceafed, and the 
 Strategus or general who had before aded as overfeer of the 
 
 agora 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. jr 
 
 agora or market, then became the fupreme magiftrate. Under 
 Claudius, his fucceflbr, the city was taken but Toon re- 
 covered. 
 
 It is related, that Conftantine, when emperor, gloried in 
 the title of general of Athens, and rejoiced exceedingly on 
 obtaining from the people the honour of a ftatue with an 
 infcription, which he acknowleged by a yearly gratuity of many 
 bufhels of grain. He conferred on the governor of Attica and 
 Athens the title of gratid duke, f^ycis Jot/^. That office was at 
 firft annual, but afterwards hereditary. His fon Conftans 
 beftowed feveral iflands on the city, to fupply it with corn. 
 
 In the time of Theodofius the firfl, three hundred and eighty 
 years after Chrift, the Goths laid wafte Theflaly and Epirus, but 
 Theodore, general of the Achaeans, by his prudent condudt 
 preferved the cities of Greece from pillage and the inhabitants 
 from being led into captivity. A ftatue of marble was eredled 
 to him at Athens by order of the city ; and afterwards one of 
 brafs, by command of the emperor, as appears from an infcrip- 
 tion in a church dedicated to a faint of the fame name, not far 
 from the French convent. It is on a round pedeftal, whicb 
 fupports a flat flone ferving for the holy table. Eudocia the 
 wife of Theodofius the fecond was an Athenian. 
 
 The fatal period now approached, and Athens was about ta 
 experience a conqueror more favage even than Sylla. This was 
 Alaric, king of the Goths ; who, under the emperors Arcadius 
 and Honorius, overran Greece and Italy, facking, pillaging, and 
 deftroying. Then the Peloponnefian towns were overturned, Arca- 
 dia and Lacedaemon were laid wafte, the two feas by the Ifthmus 
 were burnifhed with the flames of Corinth, and the Athenian 
 matrons were dragged in chains by Barbarians. The inva- 
 luable treafures of antiquity, it is related, were removed ; the 
 ftately and. magnificent ftruftures converted into piles of ruin ; 
 and Athens was flripped of every thing fplendid or remarkable. 
 
 Synefius, 
 
32 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 Synefius, a writer of that age, compares the city to a vi(5llm, of 
 which the body had been confumed, and the hide only re- 
 mained. 
 
 After this event, Athens became an unimportant place, 
 and as obfcure as it once had been famous. We read that the 
 cities of Hellas were put into a flate of defence by Jullinian, 
 who repaired the walls, which at Corinth had been fubverted by 
 an earthquake, and at Athens and in Bosotia were impaired by 
 age ; and here we take a long farewel of this city. A chafm of 
 near feven hundred years enfues in its hiftory, except that, about 
 the year 1 130, it furniflied Roger the firft, king of Sicily, with 
 a number of artificers, whom he fettled at Palermo, where 
 they introduced the culture of filk, which then pafled into 
 Italy. The worms had been brought from India to Conftanti- 
 nople in the reign of Juftinian. 
 
 Athens, as it were, re-emerges from oblivion in the 
 thirteenth century, under Baldwin, but befieged by a general of 
 Theodorus Lafcaris, the Greek emperor. It was taken in 1427 
 by Sultan Morat. Boniface, marquis of Montferrat, pofTelTed 
 it, with a garrifon j after whom it was governed by Delves, of 
 the houfe of Arragon. On his death, it was feized with 
 Macedonia, Theffaly, Boeotia, Phocis, and the Peloponnefus, 
 by Bajazet; and then, with the ifland Zante, by the Spaniards 
 of Catalonia in the reign of the Greek emperor Andronicus 
 Palaeologus the elder. Thefe were difpoffelled by Reinerius 
 Acciaioli, a Florentine; who, leaving no legitimate male iffue, 
 bequeathed it to the flate of Venice. His natural fon, Antony, 
 to whom he had given Thebes with Boeotia, expelled the 
 Venetians. He was fucceeded in the dukedom by his kinfman 
 Nerius, who was difplaced by his own brother named Antony, 
 but recovered the government, when he died. Nerius, leaving 
 only an infant fon, was fucceeded by his wife. She was ejedled 
 by Mahomet on a complaint from Francus fon of the fecond 
 Antony, who confined her at Megara, and made away with her; 
 
 but 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 33 
 
 but, her Ton accufing him to Mahomet the fecond, the Turkifh 
 army under Omar advanced, and he furrendered the citadel in 
 1455 ; the Latins refuling to fuccour him, unlefs the Athenians 
 would embrace their religious tenets. Mahomet, it is related, 
 when he had finilhed the war with the defpot of the Morea, 
 four years after, furveyed the city and Acropolis with admira- 
 tion. The Janizaries informed him of a confpiracy, and 
 Francus Acciaioli, who remained lord of Boeotia, was put to 
 death. In 1464 the Venetians landed at the Pirasus, furprized 
 the city, and carried off their plunder and captives to Eubcea. 
 
 It is remarkable that after thefe events Athens was again In 
 a manner forgotten. So lately as about the middle of the 
 fixteenth century, the city was commonly believed to have been 
 utterly deftroyed, and not to exift;, except a few huts of poor 
 fifliermen. Cruiius, a learned and inquifitive German, procured 
 more authentic information from his Greek correfpondents re- 
 ading in Turkey, which he publifhed in 15S4; to awaken 
 curiofity and to promote farther difcoveries. One of thefe 
 letters is from a native of Nauplia, a town near Argos in the 
 Morea. The writer fays, that he had been often at Athens, 
 and that it ftill contained things worthy to be feen, fome of 
 which he enumerates, and then fubjoins, " but why do I dwell 
 ** on this place ? It is as the fkin of an animal, which has been 
 *' long dead." 
 
 The walls of Athens, when the city was in its profperlty, 
 with the Piraeus, were one hundred and ninety-five lladia, or 
 twenty-four miles, a quarter, and a half, in circumference ^ the 
 calculation being made as follows. 
 
 The- wall encompafling the Piraeus with Munychia, fixty 
 ftadia, or feven miles and a half. 
 
 The lo72g walls joining the Piraeus to the city, north-fide, 
 forty fladia, or five miles ; fouth-fide, thirty fladia, or four 
 miles, a quarter, and a half. 
 
 F The 
 
j4 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 The exterior city wall joining the long walls, forty-threo 
 ftadia, or five miles, a quarter, and a half. 
 
 The middle or interior wall, between the long walls, feven- 
 teen ftadia, or two miles and half a quarter. 
 
 By this computation, the circuit of the city-wall alone was 
 fixty ftadia, or feven miles and a half. The part toward 
 Hymettus and Pentele, the mountains on the eaft and north-eaft, 
 was of brick. The plain alfo was then covered with demi 
 or towns, and with villas richly furniflhed. 
 
 CHAP. viir. 
 
 Of modern Athens ~-~T!he antiquities — I'he citadel — Its antient 
 and prejent Jlate — Remark, 
 
 ATHENS is placed by geographers in fifty three degrees of 
 longitude. Its latitude was found by Mr. Vernon, an Englifli 
 traveller, to be thirty eight degrees and five minutes. It is now 
 called ('a3->jV>j) Athini, and is not inconfiderable, either in extent 
 or the number of inhabitants. It enjoys a fine temperature, 
 and a ferene fky. The air is clear and wholefome, though not 
 fo delicately foft as in Ionia. The town flands beneath the 
 Acropolis or citadel, not encompafling the rock, as formerly, 
 but fpreading into the .plain, chiefly on the weft and north-weft. 
 Corfairs infefting it, the avenues were fecured, and in 1676 the 
 gates were regularly fhut after funfet. It is now open again, 
 but feveral of the gateways remain, and a guard of Turks 
 patroles at midnight. Some mafles of brick-work, ftanding 
 feparate, without the town, belonged perhaps to the antient 
 wall, of which other traces alfo appear. The houfes are moftly 
 mean, and ftraggling ; many with large areas or courts before 
 them. In the lanes, the high walls on each fide, which are 
 commonly white-waftied, reflect ftrongly the heat of the fun. 
 
 The 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 35 
 
 The ftreets are very irregular ; and antlcntly were neither uniform 
 nor handfome. They have water conveyed in channels from 
 mount Hymettus, and in the Bazar or market-place is a large 
 fountain. The Turks have feveral mofques and public baths. 
 The Greeks have convents for men and women ; with many 
 churches, in which fervice is regularly performed ; and befides 
 thefe, they have numerous oratories or chapels, fome in ruins 
 or confifting of bare walls, frequented only on the anniverfaries 
 of the faints to whom they are dedicated. A portrait of the 
 owner on board is placed in them on that occafion, and removed 
 when the folemnity of the day is over. 
 
 Besides the more flable antiquities, of which an 
 account will be given in the fequel, many detached pieces are 
 found in the town, by the fountains, in the ftreets, the walls, 
 the houfes, and churches. Among thefe are fragments of 
 fculpture } a marble chair or two, which probably belonged to 
 the Gymnafia or theatres; a fun-dial at the catholicon or cathe- 
 dral, infcribed with the name of the maker ; and, at the archie- 
 pifcopal houfe clofe by, a very curious vefTel of marble, ufed as 
 a ciftern to receive water, but once ferving, it is likely, as a 
 public ftandard or meafure. Many columns occur; with fome 
 maimed ftatues ; and pedeftals, feveral with infcriptions, and 
 almoft buried in earth. A cuftom has prevailed, as at Chios, of 
 fixing in the wall, over the gateways and doors of the houfes, 
 carved ftones, moft of which exhibit the funereal fupper. In 
 the courts of the houfes lie many round ftelae, or pillars, once 
 placed on the graves of the Athenians ; and a great number are 
 ftill to be feen applied to the fame ufe in the TurkiHi burying 
 grounds before the acropolis. Thefe generally have concife 
 infcriptions containing the name of the perfon, and of the town 
 and tribe, to which the deceafed belonged. Demetrius the Phale- 
 rean, who endeavoured to reftrain fepulchral luxury, enabled, 
 that no perfon fliould have more than one ; and that the height 
 ihould not exceed three cubits. Another fpecies, which refem- 
 bles our modern head-ilones, is fometimes adorned with fculp- 
 
 F 2 ture 
 
36 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 ture, and has an epitaph in verfe. We faw a few mutilated 
 Hermffi. Thefe were bufte on long quadrangular bafes, the 
 heads frequently of brafs, invented by the Athenians. At 
 iirfl: they were made to reprefent only Hermes or Mercury, and 
 defigned as guardians of the fepulchres, in which they were 
 lodged i but afterwards the houfes, ftreets, and porticoes of 
 Athens, were adorned with them, and rendered venerable by a 
 multitude of portraits of illuftrious men and women, of heroes 
 and of gods : and, it is related, Hipparchus, fon of Pififtratus, 
 er^dted them in the demi or borough-towns, and by the road 
 iide, infcribed with moral apophthegms in elegiac verfe ; thus 
 making them vehicles of inftrudion. 
 
 The acropolis, afly, or citadel, was the city of Cecrops. 
 It is now a fortrefs, with a thick irregular wall, Handing on the 
 brink of precipices, and inclofing a large area, about twice as 
 long as broad. Some portions of the antient wall may be 
 difcovered on the outfide, particularly at the two extreme angles ; 
 and in many places it is patched with pieces of columns, and 
 with marbles taken from the ruins. A confiderable fum had 
 been recently expended on the fide next Hymettus, which was 
 finifhed before we arrived. The fcafFolding had been removed 
 to the end toward Pentele, but money was wanting, and the 
 workmen were withdrawn. The garrifon confifts of a few 
 Turks, who refide there with their families, and are called by 
 the Greeks Ca/in'ani or the foldiers of the caftle. Thefe hollow 
 nightly from their ftation above the town, to approve their 
 vigilance. Their houfes overlook the city, plain, and gulf, but 
 the fituation is as airy as pleafant, and attended with fo many 
 inconveniences, that thofe who are able and have the option 
 prefer living below, when not on duty. The rock is lofty, 
 abrupt, and inaccefhble, except the front, which is toward the 
 Piraeus j and on that quarter is a mountainous ridge, within 
 cannon-fhot. It is deftitute of water fit for drinking, and fup- 
 plies are daily carried up in earthen jars, on horfes and affes, 
 from one of the conduits in the town. 
 
 The 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 37 
 
 The acropolis furniflied a very ample field to the antient 
 virtuofi. It was filled with monuments of Athenian glory, and 
 exhibited an amazing difplay of beauty, of opulence, and of 
 art j each contending, as it were, for the fuperiority. It 
 appeared as one entire offering to the deit)?, furpaffing in ex- 
 cellence, and aftonifhingin richnefs. Heliodorus, named Perie- 
 getes, the guide, had employed on it fifteen books. The curiofities 
 of various kinds, with the pictures, ftatues, and pieces of 
 fculpture, were fo many and fo remarkable, as to fupply Polemo 
 Periegetes with matter for four volumes ; and Strabo affirms, 
 that as many would be required in treating of other portions of 
 Athens and of Attica. In particular, the number of ftatues was 
 prodigious. Tiberius Nero, who was fond of images, plundered 
 the acropolis, as well as Delphi and Olympia ,• yet Athens, and 
 each of thefe places, had not fewer than three thoufand remain- 
 ing in the time of Pliny. Even Paufanias feems here to be 
 diftrefi'ed by the multiplicity of his fubje<fl. But this banquet, 
 as it were,, of the fenfes has long been withdrawn ; and 
 is now become like the tale of a vifion. The fpedlator views 
 with concern the marble ruins intermixed with mean flat-roofed 
 cottages, and extant amid rubbifli j the fad memorials of a 
 nobler people ; which, however, as vifible from the fea, fhould 
 have introduced modern Athens to more early notice. They 
 who reported it was only a fmall village, muft, it has been 
 furmifed, have beheld the acropolis through the wrong end of 
 their telefcopes. 
 
 When we confider the long feries of years, which has 
 elapfed, and the variety of fortune, which Athens has under- 
 gone, we may wonder that any portion of the old city has 
 efcaped, and that the fite flill furnifhes an ample fund of curious 
 entertainment. Atticus is reprefented by Cicero as receiving 
 more pleafure from the recolledlion of the eminent men it had 
 produced, than from the ftately edifices and exquifite works of 
 antient art, with which it then abounded. The traveller need not 
 be fo refined to derive fatisfadlion even now from feeing Athens. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
38 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 C H A P. IX. 
 
 Of Pericles — Of his buildings — Entrance of the acropolis — the 
 fropylia — Story of the arcliiteB — T'he temple of viSlory, or 
 right nving of the propylea — T'he left wing — Prefent Jiate of 
 the propylea — Of the temple — Ignorance of the I'lirks and 
 Greeks — Of the left iving — 'The propylea ivhen ruined— ^ 
 Infcription on a pedejial. 
 
 IT was the fortune of x^thens, while flourifhing in glory, 
 dominion, and revenue, to produce Pericles, a man as diftin- 
 guiflied by the vaftnefs of his ideas, as by the corredlnefs of his 
 tafte, and as eloquent as fplendid. His enemies declaiming 
 againft his temples and images, and comparing the city with its 
 gilding and painting to a vain woman hung with jewels, he 
 took occafion to lliow, it was wifdom to convert the profperity 
 of a flate, fufficiently prepared for war, into its perpetual 
 ornament by public works, which excited every liberal art, 
 moved every hand, and difpenfed plenty to the labourer and 
 artificer, to the mariner and merchant ; the whole city being at 
 once employed, maintained, and beautified by itfelf. " Think 
 *' ye, faid he, it is much I have expended ?" Some anfwered, 
 ** very much. Be mine then, he replied, the whole burthen, 
 ** and mine the honour of infcribing the edifices raifed for you." 
 But the multitude refufed, and calling out, bade him take 
 from the treafury and fpare not. 
 
 The architefts employed by Pericles were pofifefled of con- 
 fummate fkill in their profeffion, and Phidias was his overfeer. 
 The artificers in the various branches were emulous to excel the 
 materials by their workmanfhip. To grandeur of proportion 
 were added inimitable form and grace. The vigour of one 
 adminiftration accomplifiied what appeared to require the united 
 efforts of many j yet each fabric was as mature in perfedion, as 
 
 if 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 39 
 
 if it had been long in finifhing. Plutarch affirms, that, in his 
 time, the ftrudtures of Pericles alone demonflrated the relations 
 of the antient power and wealth of Hellas not to be romantic. 
 In their charadter was an excellence peculiar and unparallelled. 
 Even then they retained all their original beauty. A certain 
 frefhnefs bloomed upon them, and preferved their faces unin- 
 jured ; as if they poifeffed a never-fading fpirit, and had a foul 
 infenfible to age. The remains of fome of thefe edifices, flilL 
 extant in the acropolis, cannot be beheld without admiration. 
 
 The acropolis has now, as formerly, only one entrance, 
 which fronts the Pirasus. The afcent is by traverfes and rude 
 fortifications furnhhed with cannon, but without carriages and 
 neglected. By the fecond gate is the ftation of the guard, who 
 fits crofs-legged under cover, much at his eafe, fmoking his 
 pipe, or drinking coffee ; with his companions about him in 
 like attitudes. Over this gateway is an infcription in large 
 characters on a ftone turned upfide down, and black from the 
 fires made below. It records a prefent of a pair of gates. 
 
 Going farther up, you come to the ruins of the propylea, 
 an edifice, which graced the entrance into the citadel. This 
 was one of the ftrudtures of Pericles, who began it when 
 Euthymenes was archon, four hundred thirty-five years before 
 Chrift. It was completed in five years, at the expence of two 
 thoufand and twelve talents. It was of marble, of the doric 
 order, and had five doors, to afford an eafy paffage to the 
 multitudes, which reforted on bufinefs or devotion to the acro- 
 polis. 
 
 While this fabric was building, the archite<ft, Mneficles, 
 whofe activity equalled his fkill, was hurt by a fall, and the 
 phyficians defpaired of his lifej but Minerva, who was propi- 
 tious to the undertaking, appeared, it was faid, to Pericles, and 
 prefcribed a remedy, by which he was fpeedily and eafily cured. 
 
 It 
 
40 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 It was a plant or herb growing round about the acropolis, and 
 called afterwards parthenium. 
 
 The right wing ' of the propylea was a temple of vidory. 
 They related that .^geus had ftood there, viewing the fea, 
 and anxious for the return of his fon Thefeus, who was gone to 
 Crete with the tributary children to be delivered to the Mino- 
 taur. The veffel, which carried them, had black fails fuiting 
 the occafion of its voyage ; and it was agreed, that, if Thefeus 
 overcame the enemy, their colour fliould be changed to white. 
 The negledt of this fignal was fatal to i^geus, who, on feeing 
 the fails unaltered, threw himfelf down headlong from the rock, 
 and perifhed. The idol was named ViSiory without wings -, it 
 was faid, becaufe the news of the fuccefs of Thefeus did not 
 arrive, but with the conqueror. It had a pomegranate in the 
 right hand, and an helmet in the left. As the ftatue was with- 
 out pinions, it was hoped the goddefs would remain for ever on 
 the fpot. 
 
 O N the left wing of the propylea, and fronting the temple 
 of Victory, was a building decorated with paintings by Polygno- 
 tus, of which an account is given by Paufanias. This edifice, 
 as well as the temple, was of the doric order, the columns 
 fluted, and without bafes. Both contributed alike to the uni- 
 formity and grandeur of the defign ; and the whole fabric, 
 when finiflied, was deemed equally magnificent and ornamental. 
 The interval between Pericles and Paufanias confifts of feveral 
 centuries. The propylea remained entire in the time of this 
 topographer, and, as will be fhown, continued nearly fo to a 
 much later period. It had then a roof of white marble, which 
 was unfurpafTed either in the fize of the flones, or in the beauty 
 of their arrangement ; and before each wing was an equeftrian 
 ftatue. 
 
 x^aulanias, p. 20. T«y JV TI^ctvXmuh id J^|ia — £» ug/t-itfCt cmnfic/: 1^1 y^x^oa.— 
 Wheler, p. 358, and Spon, p. 137, not attending enough to this paffage, have 
 miftaken one wing for the other ; fubftituting the right and left of the human body, 
 for the right and left of the propylea. 
 
 The 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 41 
 
 The propylea have ceafed to be the entrance of the acro- 
 polis. The pafTage, which was between the columns in the 
 centre, is walled up almofl: to their capitals, and above is a 
 battery of cannon. The way now winds before the front of the 
 antient flrudlure, and, turning to the left hand among 
 rubbifh and mean walls, you come to the back part, and 
 to the five door-ways. The foil without is rifen higher than 
 the top of the two fmaller. There, under the vault and cannon 
 lies an heap of large flones, the ruin of the roof. 
 
 The temple of Vidtory, {landing on an abrupt rock, has its 
 back and one fide unincumbered with the modern ramparts. 
 The columns in the front being walled up, you enter it by a 
 breach in the fide, within the propylea. It was ufcd by the 
 Turks as a magazine for powder, until about the year 1656; 
 when a fudden explofion, occafioned by lightning, carried away 
 the roof, with a houfe eredled on it, belonging to the officer 
 who commanded in the acropolis, whofe whole family, except 
 a girl, perifhed. The women of the Aga continued to inhabit 
 in this quarter, but it is now abandoned and in ruins. 
 
 The cell of the temple of Vidlory, which is of white marble, 
 very thick, and ftrongly cemented, fufficiently witnefTes the 
 great violence it has undergone -, the Itones in many places 
 being disjointed, as it were, and forced from their original 
 pofition. Two of thefe making an acute angle, the exterior 
 edges touching, without a crevice ; and the light abroad being 
 much ftronger than in the room, which has a modern roof and 
 is dark ; the portion in contaft becoming pellucid, had illumined 
 the vacant fpace with a dim colour, refembling that of amber. 
 We were defired to examine this extraordinary appearance, 
 which the Greeks regarded as a landing miracle, and which the 
 Turks, who could not confute them, beheld with equal aflo- 
 nifhment. We found in the gap fome coals, which had been 
 brought on a bit of earthen ware for the purpofe of burning 
 
 G incenfe 
 
42 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 incenfe, as we fuppofed, and alfo a piece of wax-taper, which 
 probably had been h'ghted in honour of the faint and author of 
 the wonder ; but our Swifs unfortunately carrying his own 
 candle too far in, the fmoke blackened the marble, and deflroyed 
 the phsenomenon. 
 
 The building oppofite to the temple has ferved as a foun* 
 dation for a fquare lofty tower of ordinary mafonry. The 
 columns of the front are walled up, and the entrance is by a low 
 iron gate in the fide. It is now ufed as a place of confinement 
 for delinquents j but in 1676 was a powder magazine. In the 
 wall of a rampart near it are fome fragments of exquifite 
 fculpture, reprefenting the Athenians fighting with the Amazons. 
 Thefe belong to the freeze, which was then {landing. In the 
 fecond century, when Paufanias lived, much of the painting was 
 impaired by age, but fome remained, and the fubjedts were 
 chiefly taken from the Trojan ftory. The traces are fince 
 vaniflKd. 
 
 The pediment of the temple of Vidlory, with that of the 
 oppofite wing, is defcribed as remaining in 1676 ; but on each 
 building a fquare tower had been ereded. One of the fteps in 
 the front of the propylea was entire, with the four columns, 
 their entablature and the pediment. The portico, to which the 
 five door-ways belonged, confifted of a large fquare room, roofed 
 with flabs of marble, which were laid on two great marble 
 beams and fufl:ained by four beautiful columns. Thefe were 
 Ionic, the proportions of this order beft: fuiting that purpofe, as 
 taller than the Doric ; the reafon it was likewife preferred in the 
 pronaos of the temple of Vidlory. The roof of the propylea, 
 after {landing above two thoufand years, was probably de{lroyed, 
 with all the pediments, by the Venetians in 1687, when they 
 battered the ca{lle in front, firing red-hot bullets, and took it, 
 but were compelled to refign it again to the Turks in the fol- 
 lowing year. The exterior walls, and, in particular, a fide of the 
 temple of Vidory, retain many marks of their ho{lilities. 
 
 Pausanias 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE, i^j 
 
 f" 
 
 Pausanias was really, or pretended to be, ignorant, to 
 whom the equeftrian ftatues before the wings of the propylea 
 belonged. One of the pedeftals, which remains, will fupply 
 this deficiency. The whole is immured, except the front; 
 which has been much battered by cannon-fhot; and on this, 
 my companions, while bufied in meafuring and drawing, difco- 
 vered fome Greek letters, high above the ground. After 
 repeated trials, in which I was affifled by a pocket-telefcope, I 
 procured the infcription, which may be thus tranflated ; " The 
 *' people have ereded Marcus Agrippa, fon of Lucius, thrice 
 *« conful, the friend of Caius." The third confulate of Marcus 
 Agrippa falls on the year of Rome, feven hundred and twenty 
 fix ', when his colleague was the Caius here recorded, Caius- 
 Csefar Odtavianus the feventh time conful, who was dignified by 
 the Roman fenate in this memorable year with the title of 
 Auguftus ; by which he was diftinguifhed after the fixteenth of 
 February. The confulate commenced on the Calends or firfl 
 of January. It follows, that the pedeftal was infcribed betweeri 
 this day, and the fixteenth of the fucceeding month ; or, at 
 fartheft, before the notification of this fignal and recent honour 
 had arrived in Greece ; for afterwards to have omitted the name 
 Auguftus, would have been an affront both to Caius and to the 
 fenate. The two friends, it is likely, were joined in the 
 Athenian decree, and as Agrippa graced the approach to the 
 propylea on the left hand, Caius was on the right. The 
 theatre in the Ceramicus was called for fome time i/ie Agrippeum, 
 probably as a compliment to this Agrippa. No dog or goat 
 was fuiFered to enter the propylea. 
 
 • Before Chrift, 27. 
 
 G 2 CHAP. 
 
44 TRAVELS in GREECE, 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 Of the Parthenon — Of the Jiatue of Minerva — Of Phidtai"" 
 'The Jiatue rematjiing ajter fuliaji — When removed — The 
 temple 'when ruined — Defcribed in 1 676 — Prefent Jiate — The 
 pediments— Other fculptures — Copied by Mr, Pars. 
 
 THE chief ornament of the acropolis was the parthenon or 
 great temple of Minerva, a moft fuperb and magnificent fabric. 
 The Perfians had burned the edifice, which before occupied the 
 lite, and was called hecatompedon, from its being an hundred 
 feet fquare. The zeal of Pericles and of all the Athenians was 
 exerted in providing a far more ample and glorious refidence for 
 their favourite goddefs. The architeds were Callicrates and 
 Idinus ; and a treatife on the building was written by the latter 
 and Carpion. It was of white marble, of the doric order, the 
 columns fluted and without bafes, the number in front eight ; 
 and adorned with admirable fculpture. The ftory of the birth 
 of Minerva was carved in the front pediment 5 and in the back, 
 her conteft with Neptune for the country. The hearts of burthen, 
 which had conveyed up the materials, were regarded as facred, 
 and recompenfed with paftures j and one, which had voluntarily 
 headed the train, was maintained during life, without labour, 
 at the public expenfe. 
 
 The flatue of Minerva, made for this temple by Phidias, 
 was of ivory, twenty fix cubits or thirty nine feet high. 
 It was decked with pure gold to the amount of forty four 
 talents, ' fo difpofed by the advice of Pericles as to be taken off 
 and weighed, if required. The goddefs was reprefented (land- 
 ing, with her veftment reaching to her feet. Her helmet had a 
 Sphinx for the crefl, and on the fides were Griffins. The head 
 of Medufa was on her breaft-plate. In one hand fhe held her 
 Ipear, and in the other fupported an image of Vidlory about four 
 
 • Forty talents valued, according to Herodotus, at thirteen times the weight in 
 filver will amount to above 120,000/. fterling. 
 
 cubits 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 45 
 
 cubits high. The battle of the Centaurs and Lapithae was 
 carved on her fandals ; and on her (hield, which lay at her feet, 
 the war of the gods and giants, and the battle of the Athenians 
 and Amazons. By her fpear was a ferpent, in allulion to the 
 ftory of Erichthonius ; and on the pedeftal, the birth of Pandora. 
 The Sphinx, the Vidlory, and Serpent, were accounted eminently 
 wonderful. This image was placed in the temple in the firfl 
 year of the eighty feventh Olympiad ', in which the Pelopon- 
 nelian war began. The gold was ftripped off by the tyrant 
 Lachares, when Demetrius Poliorcetes compelled him to fly. 
 The fame plqnderer plucked down the golden (hields in the 
 acropolis, and carried away the golden Vidlories, with the preti- 
 ous veiTels and ornaments provided for the Panathensaa 
 feftival. 
 
 I T was obferved of Phidias, that as a ftatuary he excelled 
 more in forming gods than men ; a fhort encomium containing 
 the fubftance of a panegyric. The Minerva of Athens, with a 
 ftatue, which he made afterwards, of Jupiter at Olympia, 
 raifed him far above competition in ivory. Such an artifl 
 deferved to be generoufly treated, but Phidias had enemies as 
 well as his patron. He had inferted in the fliield of Minerva a 
 beautiful figure of Pericles, without his knowlege, fighting with 
 an Amazon, the face partly concealed ; a hand with a fpear, 
 extended before it, feeming defigned to prevent the likenefs 
 from being perceived. Much envy and obloquy followed, whea 
 that, with his own image, was detedled. Phidias was repre- 
 fented as an old man and bald, but with a ponderous ftone 
 uplifted in his hands ; and this figure, cementing, as it were, 
 the whole work, could not be removed without its falling in 
 pieces. He was accufed of having embezzled fome ivory, by 
 charging more for the fcales of the ferpent than had been con- 
 fumed. He fled to Elis, and was killed by the people, to 
 fecure their Jupiter from a rival. 
 
 ' Before Chrift, 430. Pericles furvived only two years and a half. 
 
 ■ ' Minerva 
 
46 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 Minerva had been too long in pofleffion, and was too 
 firmly eftablifhed, to be eafily expelled from Athens. The 
 partiality of Conftantine the Great, it is probable, averted from 
 this city the tide of reformation, and preferved to the tutelary 
 goddefs, and its deities, in general, their facred portions and 
 revenues, their temples and cuftomary rites. The emperor 
 Julian, in a letter to the Athenians, reminds them, that when 
 he was fummoned by Conftantius the deftroyer of his family to a 
 court filled with his enemies, he had left them reluctantly, 
 weeping plentifully, as many of them could witnefs, flretching 
 forth his hands toward the acropolis, and fupplicating Minerva 
 to fave and protedl him : and, he affirms, flie did not abandon 
 or give up her fervant, as had been manifefl ; but was always 
 his guide, accompanying him with guardian angels, which fhe 
 had taken from the fun and moon. His beard had been fliaven, 
 and the philofophic cloke relinquiflied at the command of 
 Conftantius. Julian was transformed into a courtier and foldier, 
 but he retained his affedtion for Athens and for Minerva, to 
 whom he facrificed every morning in his clofet. The orator 
 Libanius coincided with his own belief, when he affirmed to 
 him, that none of his exploits had been atchievcd without the 
 Athenian goddefs, and that (he had been continually his counfel 
 and co-adjutor. Minerva preferved her ftation in the acropolis 
 under his fucceffors Valentinian and Valens. 
 
 The extirpation of Gentilifm at Athens feems to have been 
 accompliflied by Alaric and his Goths. Indeed, one hiftorian ' 
 relates, that this Barbarian, on his irruption into Greece through 
 the flraits of Thermopylae, haftened to Athens, expefting an 
 cafy conqueft, as he could cut oiF the communication with the 
 Piraeus, and the city was too large to be defended by the inha- 
 bitants ; but that, on his approach, he beheld Minerva armed 
 on the battlements and preparing to fally forth j with Achilles, 
 
 ' Zozimus, p. 512. 
 
 landing 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 47 
 
 Handing before the wall, and terrible, fuch as he is defcribed by 
 Homer when he appeared to the Trojans after the death of 
 Patroclus ; that Alaric, difmayed by thefe fpedlres, was induced 
 to treat j and being admitted with a fmall party into the city, 
 was conduded to the Bath, entertained by the principal perfons, 
 and gratified with valuable prefents ; and that he then led his 
 army toward the Ifthmus, leaving Athens and Attica unfpoiled. 
 But this is the narrative of a Pagan, zealous for the credit of the 
 profcribed deities j and it has been proved, that Athens fuffered 
 with the other cities of Greece. The potent and revered idol 
 of Minerva then, it is likely, fubmitted to their common plun- 
 derer, who levelled all their images without diftindlion, alike 
 regardlefs whether they were heaven-defcended or the works of 
 Phidias. 
 
 The parthenon remained entire for many ages after it was 
 deprived of the goddefs. The Chriftians converted it into a 
 church, and the Mahometans into a mofque. It is mentioned 
 in the letters of Crufius, and mifcalled the pantheon, and the 
 temple of the unknown god^. The Venetians under Koning- 
 fmark, when they befieged the acropolis in 1687, threw a bomb, 
 which demolifhed the roof, and, fetting fire to fome powder, 
 did much damage to the fabric. The floor, which is indented, 
 flill witneffes the place of its fall. This was the fad fore- 
 runner of farther deftrudion ; the Turks breaking the flones, 
 and applying them to the building of a new mofque, which 
 ftands within the ruin, or to the repairing of their houfes and the 
 walls of the fortrefs. The vaft pile of ponderous materials, 
 which lay ready, is greatly diminifhed 5 and the whole flrudturc 
 will gradually be confumed and difappear. 
 
 The temple of Minerva in 1676 was, as Wheler and Spon 
 aflfert, the fineft mofque in the world, without comparifon. 
 The Greeks had adapted the fabric to their ceremonial by con- 
 
 ' See a]fo, Modern Univerfal Hiftory, v, 5. p. 417. 
 
 flrucling 
 
48 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 flrudlng at one end a femiclrcular recefs for the holy tables, 
 with a window ; for before it was enlightened only by the door, 
 obfcurity being preferred under the heathen ritual, except on 
 feftivals, when it yielded to fplendid illuminations ; the reafon, 
 it has been furmifed, why temples are commonly found fimple 
 and unadorned on the infides. In the wall beneath the window 
 were inferted two pieces of the ftone called Phengite.s, a fpecies 
 of marble difcovered in Cappadocia in the time of Nero ; and 
 fo tranfparent, that he ereded with it a temple to Fortune, 
 which was luminous within, when the door was (hut. Thefe 
 pieces were perforated, and the light which entered, was tinged 
 with a reddifli or yellowifli hue. The picture of the Panagia 
 or Virgin Mary, in Mofaic, on the ceiling 'of the recefs, re- 
 mained ; with two jafper columns belonging to the Ikreen, 
 which had feparated that part from the nave ; and within, a 
 canopy fupported by four pillars of porphyry, with corinthian 
 capitals of white marble, under which the table had been 
 placed J and behind it, beneath the window, a marble chair for 
 the archbifhop ; and alfo a pulpit, {landing on four fmall pillars 
 in the middle aile. The Turks had white-waftied the walls, to 
 obliterate the portraits of faints and the other paintings, with 
 which the Greeks decorate their places of worfhip j and had 
 ereded a pulpit on the right hand for their Iman or reader. The 
 roof was difpofed in fquare compartments ; the ftones maflive j 
 and fome had fallen in. It had been fuflained in the pronaos by 
 fix columns, but the place of one was then fupplied by a large jjile 
 of rude mafonry ; the Turks not having been able to fill up the 
 gap more worthily. The roof of the naos was fupported by 
 colonnades ranging with the door, and on each fide ; confifling 
 of twenty two pillars below, and of twenty three above. The 
 odd one was over the entrance, which by that difpofition 
 was left wide and unembarrafled. In the portico were fuf- 
 pended a few lamps, to be ufed in the mofque at the feafons, 
 when the MufTelmen afiemble before day-break, or to be lighted 
 up round the minaret, as is the cuflom during their Ramazan or 
 Lent, 
 
 It 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE, 4^ 
 
 It is not eafy to conceive a more ftriking objedl than the 
 parthenon, though now a mere ruin. The columns within 
 the naos have all been removed, but on the floor may be feen 
 the circles, which directed the workmen in placing them ; and, 
 at the farther end is a groove acrofs it, as for one of the partitions 
 of the cell. The recefs ere(5ted by the Chriftians is demolifhed, 
 and from the rubbifh of the ceiling the Turkifli boys colled: 
 bits of the Mofaic, of different colours, which compofed the 
 pidure. We were told at Smyrna, that this fubftance had taken 
 a polifli, and been fet in buckles. The cell is about half 
 demoliflied, and in the columns, which furrounded it, is a large 
 gap near the middle. On the walls are fome traces of the 
 paintings. Before the portico is a refervoir, funk in the rock, 
 to fupply the Turks with water for the purifications cufl:omary 
 on entering their mofques. In it on the left-hand is the rubbiOi 
 of the pile eredted to fupply the place of a column ; and on the 
 right, a ftaircafe, which leads out on the architrave, and has 
 a marble or two with infcriptions, but worn fo as not 
 to be legible. It belonged to the minaret, which has been 
 deftroyed. 
 
 The travellers, to whom we are Indebted for an account of 
 the mofque, have likewife given a defcription of the fculpture 
 then remaining in the front. In the middle of the pediment was 
 feen a bearded Jupiter, with a majeftic countenance, {landing, 
 and naked; the right arm broken. The thunder-bolt, it has 
 been fuppofed, was placed in that hand, and the eagle between 
 his feet. On his right was a figure, it is conjedlured, of 
 Vidlory, clothed to the mid-leg ; the head and arms gone. 
 This was leading on the horfes ' of a car, in which Minerva fat, 
 young and unarmed ; her head-drefs, inftead of a helmet, re- 
 fembling that of a Venus. The generous ardour and lively 
 fpirit vifible in this pair of celeftial fteeds, was fuch as befpoke 
 the hand of a mafter, bold and delicate, of a Phidias or Praxi- 
 
 ' Thefe horfes are mentioned in a letter to Crufius. 
 
 H teles. 
 
50 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 teles. Behind Minerva was a female figure, without a head, 
 fitting, with an infant in her lap; and in this angle of the 
 pediment was the emperor Hadrian with his arm round Sabina, 
 both reclining, and feeming to regard Minerva with pleafure. 
 On the left fide of Jupiter were five or fix other trunks to com- 
 plete the afiembly of deities, into which he received her. Thefe 
 figures were all wonderfully carved, and appeared as big as life. 
 Hadrian and his confort, it is likely, were complimented by the 
 Athenians with places among the marble gods in the pediment, 
 as benefadors. Both of them may be confidered as intruders 
 on the original company, and poflibly their heads were placed 
 on trunks, which before had other owners. They ftill 
 poffefs their corner, and are eafy to be recognized, though not 
 unimpaired. The reft of the ftatues are defaced, removed, or 
 fallen. Morofini was ambitious to enrich Venice with the fpoils 
 of Athens, and by an attempt to take down the principal group 
 haftened their ruin. In the other pediment is a head or two of 
 fea-horfes finely executed, with fome mutilated figures j and on 
 the architrave beneath them are marks of the fixtures of votive 
 offerings, perhaps of the golden fhields, or of feftoons fufpended 
 on folemn occafions, when the temple was drefled out to receive 
 the votaries of the goddefs. 
 
 It is to be regretted that fo much admirable fculpture as is 
 ftill extant about this fabric fhould be all likely to perifli, as it 
 were immaturely, from ignorant contempt and brutal violence. 
 Numerous carved ftones have difappeared j and many, lying in. 
 the ruinous heaps, moved our indignation at the barbarifm daily 
 exercifed in defacing them. Befides the tw^o pediments, all the 
 metopes were decorated with large figures in alto relievo, of which 
 feveral are almoft entire on the fide next Hymettus. Thefe are ex- 
 ceedingly ftriking, efpecially when viewed with a due proportion 
 of light and Ihade, the fun rifing behind the mountain. Their 
 fubjedl is the fame as was chofen for the fandals of Minerva, or the 
 battle of the Centaurs and Lapithas. On the freeze of the cell 
 was carved in baflb relievo, the folemnity of a facrifice to Minerva; 
 
 and 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 51^ 
 
 and of this one hundred and feventy feet are (landing, the greater 
 part in good prefervation j containing a proceffion on horfeback. 
 On two ftones, which have fallen, are oxen led as vidlims. On 
 another, fourteen feet long, are the virgins called Canephori, 
 which affifted at the rites, bearing the facred canifters on their 
 heads, and in their hands each a taper; with other figures, one 
 a venerable perfon with a beard reading in a large volume, 
 which is partly fupported by a- boy. This piece, now inferted 
 in the wall of the fortrefs, is fuppofed to have ranged in the 
 centre of the back, front of the cell. The facrifice defigned to 
 be reprefented was probably that performed at ftated times by 
 the Athenian cavalry; and perhaps the figure laft mentioned is 
 the herald praying for the profperity of the Athenians and 
 Platasenfians, as was ufual, in commemoration of their united 
 bravery at Marathon. We purchafed two fine fragments of the 
 freeze, which we found inferted over door-ways in the town ; 
 and were prefented with a beautiful trunk, which had fallen 
 from the metopes, and lay negleded in the garden of a Turk. 
 
 The marquis de Nointell, ambaflador from France to the 
 Porte in the year 1672, employed a painter to delineate the 
 freeze ; but his fketches, the labour of a couple of months, 
 muft have been very imperfecfl, being made from beneath, 
 without fcaffolding, his eyes ftraining upwards. Mr. Pars 
 devoted a much longer time to this work, which he executed 
 with diligence, fidelity, and courage. His pofl: was generally 
 on the architrave of the colonnade, many feet from the ground, 
 where he was expofed to gufls of wind, and to accidents in 
 pafling to and fro. Several of the Turks murmured, and fome 
 threatened, becaufe he overlooked their houfes ; obliging them 
 to confine or remove the women, to prevent their being feen 
 from that exalted ftation. Befides views and other fculptures, 
 he defigned one hundred ninety fix feet of bafs-relief in the 
 acropolis. 
 
 H 2 CHAP. 
 
58 TRAVELS IN GREECE, 
 
 CHAP. XI. 
 
 Of the EreB Ileum— temple of Neptune— - I'emple of Minerva Polias 
 
 — Story of Fandrofos — Prefent Jlate of the temples of Neptune 
 
 and Minerva — Of the Pandrofeum — Bufmefs of the virgins 
 
 called Canephori — Images of Minerva — the treafury — /«- 
 
 fcriptions. 
 
 WE proceed now to the clufter of ruins on the north fide of 
 the parthenon, containing the Eredheum and the temple of 
 Pandrofos, daughter of Cecrops. 
 
 Neptune and Minerva, once rival deities, were joint and 
 amicable tenants of the Eredheum, in which was an altar of 
 Oblivion. The building was double, a partition-wall dividing it 
 into two temples, which fronted different ways. One was the 
 temple of Neptune Eredlheus, the other of Minerva Polias. 
 The latter was entered by a fquare portico conneded with a 
 marble ikreen, which fronts toward the propylea. The door 
 of the cell was on the left hand, and at the farther end of the 
 paffage was a door leading down into the Pandrofeum, which 
 was contiguous. 
 
 Before the temple of Neptune Eredtheus was an altar of 
 Jupiter the fupreme, on which no living thing was facrificed, 
 but they offered cakes without wine. Within it was the altar 
 of Neptune and Eredtheus ; and two, belonging to Vulcan and a 
 hero named Butes, who had tranfmitted the priefthood to his 
 pofterity, which were called Butadae. On the walls were paint- 
 ings of this illuftrious family, from which the prieftefs of 
 Minerva Polias was alfo taken. It was afferted that Neptune 
 had ordained the well of fait water and the figure of a trident 
 in the rock, to be memorials of his contending for the country. 
 
 The 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 53 
 
 The former, Paufanias remarks, was no great wonder, for other 
 wells, of a fimilar nature were found inland ; but this, when 
 the fouth wind blew, afforded the found of waves. 
 
 The temple of Minerva Polias was dedicated by all Attica, and 
 poffeffed the moft antient ftatue of the goddefs. The demi or towns 
 had other deities, but their zeal for her fuffered no diminution. 
 The image, which they placed in the acropolis, then the city, was 
 in after ages not only reputed confummately holy, but believed to 
 have fallen down from heaven in the reign of Erichthonius. It 
 was guarded by a large ferpent, which was regularly ferved with 
 offerings of honied cakes for his food. This divine reptile was 
 of great fagacity, and attained to an extraordinary age. He 
 wifely withdrew from the temple, when in danger from the 
 Medes ; and, it is faid, was living in the fecond century. Before 
 the flatue was an owl ; and a golden lamp. This continued 
 burning day and night. It was contrived by a curious artifl, 
 named Callimachus, and did not require to be replenifhed with 
 oil oftener than once a year. A brazen palm-tree, reaching to 
 the roof, received its fmoke. Ariflion had let the holy flame 
 expire, while Sylla belieged him, and was abhorred for his 
 impiety. The original olive-tree, faid to have been produced 
 by Minerva, was kept in this temple. When the Medes fet 
 fire to the acropolis, it was confumed ; but, they aflerted, on 
 the following day, was found to have fhot up again as much as 
 a cubit. It grew low and crooked, but was efleemed very holy. 
 The prieflefs of Minerva was not allowed to eat of the new 
 cheefe of Attica ; and, among her perquifites, was a meafure of 
 wheat, and one of barley, for every birth and burial. This 
 temple was again burned when Callias was Archon ', twenty 
 four years after the death of Pericles. Near it was the tomb of 
 Cecrops, and within it Eredtheus was buried. 
 
 It was related in the mythology of Athens, that Minerva 
 intrufled to Aglauros, Herfe, and Pandrofos, a chefl > which 
 
 ' Before Chrift, 404. Pericles died of the plague in the 4th Olymp. 87. 
 
54 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 Ihe ftridly enjoined them not to open. It contained Eredheus 
 or Erichthonius, an infant, the oifspring of Vulcan and of the 
 Earth j guarded by a ferpent. Curiofity prevailing, the two 
 elder fiflers difobeyed. The goddefs was gone to Pallene for a 
 mountain; intending to blockade the entrance of the acropolis. 
 A biify crow met her, on her return, and informed her what 
 had pafled, when flie dropped the mountain, which was after- 
 wards called Lycabettus ; and, difpleafed with the ofiicious tale- 
 bearer, commanded that no crow fhould ever again viiit the 
 acropolis. The guilty filters were feized with a frenzy, and 
 threw themfclves down one of the precipices. Pandrofos was 
 honoured with rites and myfteries. She was joined with Minerva, 
 and when a heifer was facrificed to the goddefs, it was accom- 
 panied with a fheep for Pandrofos. This ftory is alluded to by 
 Homer, who mentions the temple of Minerva, with the offer- 
 ings of bulls and young flieep made annually by the Athenians. 
 Crows, as I have often obferved, fly about the fides of the rock, 
 without afcending to the height of the top ; and Lucretius 
 aflerts that not even the fmoking of the altars, when they might 
 expedl food, could entice them thither ; which he fenfibly attri- 
 butes, not to the dread of Minerva, as the Greek poets fung, 
 but to the nature of the place. 
 
 The ruin of the Eredheum is of white marble, the archi- 
 tedlural ornaments of very exquifite workmanfl:iip, and uncom- 
 monly curious. The columns of the front of the temple of 
 Neptune are ftanding with the architrave; and alfo the fkreen 
 and portico of Minerva Polias, with a portion of the cell retain- 
 ing traces of the partition-wall. The order is Ionic. An 
 edifice revered by antient Attica, as holy in the higheft degree, 
 was in 1676 the dwelling of a Turkifh family; and is now 
 deferted and negledted ; but many ponderous ftones and much 
 rubbifli muft be removed, before the well and trident would 
 appear. The former, at leaft, might probably be difcovered. 
 The portico is ufed as a powder-magazine; but we obtained 
 permiffion to dig and to examine the outfide. The door- way of 
 
 the 
 
TRAVELS IS GREECE. s5 
 
 the veflibule is walled up, and the foil rilen nearly to the top of 
 the door-way of the Pandrofeum. By the portico is a battery 
 commanding the town, from which afcends an amufing hum. 
 The Turks fire from it, to give notice of the commencement of 
 Ramazan or of their Lent, and of Bairam or the Holy-days, and 
 on other public occafions. 
 
 The Pandrofeum is a fmall, but very particular building, of 
 which no fatisfactory idea can be communicated by defcription. 
 The entablature is fupported by women called Caryatides. Their 
 ftory is thus related. The Greeks, viftorious in the Perlian 
 war, jointly defhroyed Carya, a city of the Peloponnefus, which 
 had favoured the common enemy. They cut off the males, and 
 carried into captivity the women, whom they compelled to 
 retain their former drefs and ornaments, though in a flate of 
 fervitude. The architects of thofe times, to perpetuate the 
 memory of their punilhment, reprefented them, as in this 
 inftance, each with a burthen on her head, one hand uplifted 
 to it, and the other hanging down by her fide. The images 
 were in number fix, all looking toward the parthenon. The 
 four in front, with that next to the propylea, remain, but muti- 
 lated, and their faces befmeared with paint. The foil is rifen 
 almoft to the top of the bafement on which they are placed. 
 This temple was open or latticed between the ilatues ; and in it 
 alfo was a ftunted olive-tree, with an altar of Jupiter Herceus 
 flanding under it. The propylea are nearly in a line with the 
 fpace dividing it from the parthenon ; which difpofition, befides 
 its other effedls, occafioned the front and fiank of the latter 
 edifice to be feen at once by thofe who approached it from the 
 entrance of the acropolis. 
 
 The deities of the acropolis had a variety of minifters and 
 inferior fervants, whofe dwellings were near their temples. la 
 particular, at a fmall diftance from the temple of Minerva Polias 
 lived two virgins, called Canephori, which continued fome time 
 with the goddefs, and, when the feafon of her feftival approached, 
 
 were 
 
56 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 were employed as follows in the night-time. They placed 
 on their heads ibmething, they knew not what, which they 
 received from the prieftefs, who was reputed equally ignorant j 
 and defcended with it into a fubterraneous paflage in the 
 city, not far from the temple of Fenus in the gardens j where 
 they exchanged one myfterious load for another, and returned 
 to the acropolis. They were then difmiffed and two new 
 virgins admitted in their room. Paufanias wondered much at 
 this cuftom. One of thefe virgins, after her difcharge, was 
 honoured by the council and people with a ftatue, as appears 
 from an infcription extant in the town. The houfes, it may be 
 prefumed, were judicioufly arranged in Tlreets, forming avenues 
 to the temples ; where now are mean cottages, narrow lanes, 
 walls, and rubbifh. The rock in many places is rugged, and 
 bare, or cut into fteps, perhaps to receive marble pavement, 
 cr the foundation of a building. 
 
 Besides the ftatue of Minerva Polias, which was of olive, 
 and that in the parthenon, the acropolis poiTeffed a third, which 
 was of brafs, and fo tall that the point of the fpear and the 
 creft of the helmet were vifible from Sunium. It was an 
 offering made with a tenth of the fpoils taken at Marathon, 
 and dedicated to the goddefs. The artifl: was Phidias. It re- 
 mained to the time of Arcadius and Honorius ; and Minerva, it 
 was faid, appeared to Alaric, as reprefented in this image. 
 There were likewife fome images of her, which efcaped the 
 flames, when Xerxes fet fire to the acropolis. Thefe, in the 
 fecond century, were entire, but unufually black, and mould- 
 ering with age. Many invaluable curiofities were then pre- 
 ferved in the temples. 
 
 At the commencement of the Peloponnefian war, Pericles, 
 to animate the Athenians, harangued on the flourifhing ftate of 
 the republic, and on the riches of the acropolis, in money, in 
 ^old and filver, in private and public offerings, facred utenfils, 
 the fpoils of the Medes, and the like j befides the forty talents, 
 
 which. 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. ^-^ 
 
 which, if wanted, might be borrowed from Minerva. The 
 treafury was in the Opifthodomos or back part of the parthenon '; 
 where the Athenians afterwards lodged Demetrius Poliorcetes. 
 The pretious effedls of Minerva and of the other deities were 
 amafled, and regiftered on marble. The tutelary gods were 
 Jupiter Saviour, and Plutus, who had wings and eyes. The 
 keys of this place, and of the gates of the acropolis, were 
 intrufted with the Prytanes ; one of whom, chofen by lot, had 
 them in his cuftody, but for a night only and a day, when he 
 was called the Epiftates or prefident ; and then refigned them to 
 a fucceflbr. The precaution of jealoufy regulated and limited 
 the command in this manner, left a tyranny (hould be eftabliftied 
 on the pofleflion of the public treafure and of the acropolis. 
 
 The marbles, which recorded thefe riches of the Athenians, 
 have not all perifhed. We difcovered fome, which I carefully 
 copied, among the rubbifh at the farther end of the parthenon ; 
 and purchafed one of a Turkifh woman living in the acropolis. 
 Another had been conveyed down to the French convent, and, 
 after we left it, was placed as a ftep in the ftaircafe of a 
 kitchen ereded by the friar. All thefe infcriptions, which are 
 very antient, commemorate jewels, Vidlories, and crowns of 
 gold, rings, and a variety of curiofities confecrated by eminent 
 perfonrs j giving fome, though an inadequate, idea of the nature 
 and quality of the treafure. Another marble, which has been 
 engraved at the expenfe of the fociety of Dilettanti, was 
 difcovered at a houfe not far from the temple of Minerva Polias, 
 placed, with the infcribed face expofed, in the ftairs. The 
 owner, who was branded for fome unfair dealing with the 
 appellative Jefut or the Jew, prefixed to his name, feeing me 
 bertow fo much labour in taking a copy, became fearful of 
 parting with the original under its value. When the bargain 
 
 ' The Opifthodomos is defcribed by the fcholiaft on Ariftophanes as a double 
 wall, with a door, behind the temple of Minerva Polias ; but this feems to be % 
 miftake, unlefs he intended to mark the fituation of the pofticum of the parthenon, 
 as behind the portica of Minerva Polias. 
 
 I was 
 
58 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 was at length concluded, we obtained the connivance of the 
 Difdar, his brother, under an injundion of privacy, as other- 
 wife the removal of the ftone might endanger his head, it being 
 the property of the Grand Signior. Muftapha delivered a ring, 
 which he commonly wore, to be ihown to a female black flave, 
 who was left in the houfe alone, as a token ; and our Swifs, 
 with afliftants and two horfes, one reputed the ftrongeft in 
 Athens, arrived at the hour appointed, and brought down the 
 two marbles, for which he was fent, unobferved ; the Turks 
 being at their devotions in the mofque, except the guard at the 
 gate, who was in the fecret. The large flab was afterwards 
 rendered more portable by a mafon. We faw many other in- 
 fcribed marbles, belides thefe ; fome fixed in the walls, or in 
 the pavement of the portico of the mofque ; fome in the floors 
 and flairs of the houfes j or lying in the courts, and among 
 rubbifli ; all which we were permitted to copy ; the Turks even 
 prying into corners, and difcovering feveral, which they had 
 often pafled before without notice. 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 From of the hill of the aerofoils-— I'lie cave of Apollo and Pan—- 
 A fountain and Jlatue — The pelafgieon and long rocks — An 
 infcription — The theatre of Bacchus — The Athenians fond of 
 gladiators — A grotto and choragic monument — The Odeum of 
 Pericles and Atticus Herodes. 
 
 THE rock of the acropolis fpreads in front, floping down 
 from before the propylea and out- works ; and is covered with 
 Turki£h fepulchres and grave-fl;ones ; among which fl:ands a 
 fmall mofque. At the foot is a deep narrow vale, with a road lead- 
 ing through, between the hill and Lycabettus or the mountain, 
 which lies before it. On one fide, the burying-grounds are 
 bounded by a bare craggy rock, with a track pafling over it 
 
 toward 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 59 
 
 toward the temple of Thefeus. We fliall leave this, which 
 was the hill of the areopagus, on the left hand, and defcend by 
 the way moft frequented ; intending to furvey the out-fide of 
 the acropolis, keeping it on the right, until we have completed 
 the circuit. 
 
 And firft, below the right wing of the propyle'a or the 
 temple of Vidlory, is a cave, once facred to Apollo and Pan. It 
 appears to have been adorned with votive tablets ; and before it 
 are fome maffes of brick-wall, remnants of a church, founded, 
 it is probable, on the removal of their altars, to infult them, 
 and to prevent their votaries from cherifliing a fuperftitious 
 veneration of the fpot. Apollo, one of its owners, deferved, 
 inftead of worfhip, to have been tried and condemned for a 
 rape, which, it was believed he committed in this cave on 
 Creufa, daughter of Eredlheus, who expofed in it afterwards 
 the child. Ion, from whom the lonians of Europe and Afia 
 were named. As to Pan, it is related, that on the landing of 
 the Medes at Marathon, Phidippides, being fent to fummon the 
 Lacedjemonians, was met by him in Arcadia, when he declared 
 an affeftion for the Athenians, and promifed to be their ally. 
 A temple, on mount Parthenius near Tegea, remaining in the 
 fecond century, was eredted, they affirmed, on the very place of 
 the interview. He was believed to have attended at Marathon, and 
 to have contributed largely to the vidlory, by ftriking the enemy 
 with the fpecies of terror from him called Panic. Miltiades 
 rewarded him with a ftatue, and on the pedeftal was an infcrip- 
 tion, which is preferved among the epigrams afcribed to Simo- 
 nides. Moreover, he was inferted in the catalogue of Athenian 
 divinities. The goat-footed god quitted his habitation on the 
 mountain, and, according to Lucian, fettled at Athens, living in 
 the cave under the acropolis, a little beneath the pelafgic wall j 
 where the people ftill continued to afl!emble two or three times 
 a year, to facrifice a he-goat to him, to feail and be merry. 
 
 I 2 By 
 
6o TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 By the road-fide before you come to the town, is a fountain, 
 in the wall on the left hand, fupplied probably by the fame 
 fpring as the well once in the temple of Neptune ; for the water 
 defcends from the acropolis, and is not fit for drinking. Farther 
 on is a ftatue of Ifis inferted in the wall on the right hand; a 
 ruined church ; and the gateway of the out- work next the town. 
 We fhall turn up on the right, and keep in the out-Jlkirt, on the 
 fide of the hill. 
 
 The Athenians permitted the Pelafgi, who fortified the 
 acropolis, to dwell beneath, and beflowed on them a portion of 
 land to cultivate, as a reward for their labour. Afterwards* 
 they accufed them of a confpiracy, and of way-laying their fons 
 and daughters, who went for water to the fountain called 
 Enneacrunus ; drove them out of Attica, and execrated the 
 fpot on which they had lived, making it unlawful to dig, 
 or fow, or build there ; the tranfgrefiTors to be apprehended, 
 carried before the archon, and fined. It was the advice 
 of the Delphic oracle, that the pelafgicon fliould be kept 
 rough and naked i but, on the invafion by the Peloponnefians, 
 the people flocking into the city, that fpot ', with the temples, 
 except a few which could not be forced open, and the towers of 
 the /o?2g walls, received inhabitants. The pelafgicon probably 
 comprehended the acclivity, or vacant fpace, on this fide above 
 the houfes, which now produces grain ; and perhaps it was for- 
 bidden to be occupied for the fecurity of the fortrefs, which on 
 that quarter was moft liable to be furprized by treachery or 
 carried by afl'ault. Some large fingle rocks, which lie there, and 
 have rolled down from above, difparted by their own weight, or 
 the violence of earthquakes, are, it is likely, thofe called anti- 
 ently the long rocks and mentioned as near the cave of Apollo 
 and Pan. 
 
 The hill of the acropolis is more abrupt and perpendicular, 
 as well as narrower, at the extremity or end oppofite to the 
 
 * The pelafgicon is miftaken for a temple by the interpreter of Thucydides, J. 2. 
 
 propyl e'a 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 6i 
 
 propylea. There, beneath the wall, is a cavern, the roofting- 
 place of crows and daws. A long fcafFold was ftanding againil 
 the outfide of the fortrefs above, and many large ftones had 
 fallen down. One was infcribed and contained a decree of the 
 tribe named Pandionis. In this record, Nicias is praifed and 
 honoured with a crown, becaufe he had obtained a vidlory with 
 a chorus of boys at the Dionyfia or feftival of Bacchus, and 
 with one of men at the Thargelia or feftival of Apollo -, and it 
 is ordered, that if any other perfon had conquered, fince the 
 archonfliip of Euclid, either with boys or men, at the feftivals 
 fpecified, his name fhould likewife be engraved ; and that the 
 fubfequent curators fhould add the names of fuch as proved 
 vidorious, while they were in office. Religion furniflied 
 Athens with a great variety of fpedtacles and amufements. The 
 feftivals were celebrated with gymnic exercifes, mufic, and 
 plays. The public fometimes defrayed the expenfe of the 
 chorufes, but that burthen was commonly laid upon rich citi- 
 zens, who had attained to the age of forty years. Rewards 
 were propofed for fuperior excellence, and the vidlory was 
 eagerly defired. The glory of individuals reflected luftre on the 
 community, to which they belonged j and the tribes were 
 emulous to furpafs each other. It was a fplendid contention, the 
 parties vying in the difplay of fpirit and generofity. The con-^ 
 querors were diftinguiflied and applauded, and their names 
 regiftered on marble. The archonftiip of Euclid coincides with 
 the fecond year of the ninety fourth Olympiad ', and was an 
 aera in the chronology of Athens, 
 
 We proceed now to the fide of the acropolis, which is 
 toward mount Hymettus ; leaving the town, which before 
 extended beneath on our left into the plain. The hill, near 
 this end, is indented with the fite of the theatre of Bacchus, by 
 which is a folitary church or two. This was a very capacious 
 edifice, near the moft antient temple of Bacchus, and adorned 
 
 • 1 Before Chrift, 4011 
 
 with 
 
^1 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 with images of the tragic and comic poets. Some ftone-work 
 remains at the two extremities, but the area is ploughed, and 
 produces grain. The Athenians invented both the drama and 
 the theati-e, the latter originally a temporary ftrudlure of wood; 
 but, while a play of iEfchylus was ading, the fcaffolds fell ; 
 and it was then refolved to provide a folid and durable fabric. 
 The flope of the hill, on which perhaps the fpedlators had been 
 accuflomed to affemble, was chofen for the building ; and the 
 feats difpofed in rows riling one above another, each refting on 
 the rock as its foundation. 
 
 While Athens continued independent, the ftage was 
 ennobled by the glorious produce of Attic genius ; by the 
 folemn chorus ; by a Sophocles, and a Menander. When Rome 
 had prevailed, it was degraded and proftituted to the favage 
 combats of gladiators ; and in the time of Trajan, the Atheni- 
 ans exceeded even the Corinthians in their relifli of that cruel 
 paftime. Thefe alTembled without their city, in a torrent-bed, 
 capable of containing the multitude, and of no account ; where, 
 it is faid, no one would even bury a free perfon; but the 
 Athenians hired and armed mifcreants of all denominations, 
 whom they encouraged to fight in the theatre facred to Bacchus ; 
 fo that fome, it often happened, were flain in the very chairs 
 belonging to the hierophant and priells. Apollonius Tyansus, 
 when at Athens, was invited to the theatre j but he refufed to 
 enter a place fo polluted with human gore ; and affirmed in a 
 letter, that the Athenians, unlefs they fpeedily defifted from 
 this barbarous pradlice, would foon facrifice hecatombs of men, 
 inftead of heifers, to their goddefs. He wondered that Minerva 
 had not forfaken her temple ; and that Bacchus had not removed, 
 as preferring the purer mountain of Cithaeron. 
 
 In the rock above the theatre is a large cavern, perhaps an 
 antient quarry, the front ornamented with marble pilafters of 
 the Corinthian order, fupporting an entablature, on which are 
 three infcriptions. Over that in the middle, is a female figure, 
 
 which 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 6-1 
 
 which had lofl its head in the year 1676, mounted on two or 
 three fteps, fedent. On one fide is a marble fun-dial, moved 
 awry from its proper pofition. It is of a kind antiently very 
 common ', as is evident from the great number ftill in ufe about 
 Athens, particularly in the tradl called f/je gardens, where many 
 are fet on the mud-walls, often with very rude gnomons. 
 Above the cavern, are two columns, flanding on the fteep ilope, 
 between the foot of the caftle-wall and the fedent figure. They 
 are of unequal heights, and have triangular capitals. On each 
 of thefe a tripod has been fixed, as is evident from the marks 
 of the feet, which may be feen from the battlements of the 
 fortrefs. The Greeks have converted the cave into a chapel, 
 which is called Panagia Spiliotifla, Tie Firgin of the Grotto,- The 
 fides of the rock within are covered with holy portraits. The 
 door is rarely open, but I was once prefent at the celebration of 
 mafs, when it was lighted up with wax-candle, and filled with 
 fmoke of incenfe, with bearded pricfts, and a devout croud ; the 
 fpedtacle fuiting the place, which is at once folemn and ro- 
 mantic. The tripods, which decorated this monument, were 
 obtained by chorufes exhibited in the theatre below, probably 
 at the Dionyfia; and confecrated to Bacchus. The firft in- 
 fcription informs us of the author and age, as well as of the 
 occafion of the building. " Thrafyllus, fon of Thrafyllus of 
 " Deceleia, dedicated the tripod; having, when he provided a 
 •' chorus, conquered with men for the tribe Hippothoontis. 
 ** Evius of Chalcis was mufician. Neaechmus was Archon. 
 *' Carcidamus fon of Sotis was teacher." This archonfhip falls- 
 on the firfl: year of the cxvth Olympiad, three hundred and 
 twenty years before Chrift. The other infcriptions are records 
 of a fimilar nature. " The people provided a chorus. Pytha- 
 ** ratus was archon ; the prefident of the games was Thraficles>. 
 " fon of Thafyllus, of Deceleia. The tribe Pandionis con- 
 ** quercd in the conteft of men. Nicocles of Ambracia was 
 
 I Lord Befborough has a fmall one in his choice and curious colledlion of anti» 
 quities at Roehamptoxi. See the form in Paciaudius. 
 
 ** mufician 
 
64 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 " muficlan. Lyfippus an Arcadian was teacher." The third 
 has a like preamble, and refers to the fame year, but to another 
 clafs of competitors. " The tribe Hippothoontis conquered in 
 " the contefl of boys. Theon of Thebes was mufician. Prono- 
 " mus a Theban was teacher ." Pytharatus was archon in the 
 fecond year of the cxxviith Olympiad', fo that Thrafycles 
 prefided and procured other tripods, to be placed on the family 
 monument, forty nine years after it was eredled by Thrafyllus 
 his father. Deceleia was a borough-town of the tribe Hippo- 
 thoontis. On one of the tripods was reprefented the flory of 
 Apollo and Diana killing the children of Niobe. It is men- 
 tioned by Paufanias ; who then proceeds to relate, that he had 
 feen this Niobe on mount Sipylus. The figure' over the grotto 
 was probably intended to reprefent that celebrated phantom, 
 which he has defcribed ; the idea of placing the ftatue there 
 correfponding with her (lory, and being fuggefted both by the 
 tripod, and by the tragedies, which were aded in the theatre, 
 containing her unhappy cataftrophe. 
 
 Going on from the theatre of Bacchus, you have an exten- 
 five cornfield, once part of the Ceramicus within the city, 
 on the left hand, now bounded by the bed of the lliffus, beyond 
 which are rocks j and before you, on an eminence, is the 
 monument of Philopappus. At fome difiance from the theatre 
 begins an out-work of the fortrefs, Handing on antient arches, 
 fuppofed to be the remains of a ftoa or portico, which was con- 
 neded with the theatre called the Odeum '. This fabric was 
 
 defigned 
 
 t Before Chrift, 271. 
 
 * If it be conjecElured that this figure reprefented a Tribe, the anfwer is, that no 
 inftance of fuch perfonification has been produced. 
 
 Paufanias may be cited as mentioning ftatues or piftures of the people, but this is 
 a miftranflation. Uemus was an Athenian of fingular beauty, the fon of Pyri- 
 lampes a friend of Pericles, v. Meurftus Pop. Ah. p. 774. p. 779. Jti. Leil. 
 p. 1867. 
 
 3 Paufanias, p. 23. defcribing the acropolis, mentions that Attalus had offered 
 the war of the giants, the battle of the Athenians and Amazons, &c. which were 
 (etcs to? r«;t;i iJ N/^y) againft the fouth wall, and each as much as two cubits. 
 
 Among 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 65 
 
 deligned by Pericles for the mufical contefls, which he regulated 
 and introduced at the Panathenjean folemnity. The building 
 was finifhed by Lycurgus fon of Lycophron. It contained 
 many rows of feats and marble columns. The roof was con- 
 ftrudted with the mafts and yards of Perfian fhips, and formed 
 to imitate the pavilion of Xerxes. Here was the tribunal of 
 the archon or fupreme magiftrate ; and here the Athenians 
 liftened to the Rhapfodifts rehearfing the poems of Homer, and 
 to the fongs in praife of the patriots Harmodius and Ariftogiton 
 and Thrafybulus. Ariftion and Sylla fet it on fire j the former, 
 when he fled to the acropolis, becaufe the timber would have 
 enabled the enemy to raife machines for an attack without 
 lofs of time. King Ariobarzanes the fecond, named Philopator, 
 who reigned in Cappadocia not long after V reflored it ; and in 
 a ftable is an infcription, which has belonged to a flatue of him 
 ereded by the perfons, whom he appointed the overfeers. He 
 was honoured alfo with a ftatue by the people, as appears from 
 another infcription. Before the entrance' were ftatues of the 
 kings of Egypt J and within, a Bacchus worth feeing. This 
 was the edifice in being when Paufanias publiflied his Attica. 
 Afterwards, as he informs us, it was rebuilt by Atticus Herodes 
 in memory of his wife Regilla. This lady was a Roman of 
 high extradion, and died of ill ufage, which Herodes was fup- 
 pofed to have abetted ; but he put his houfe into mourning, 
 refufed a fecond confulate on account of his afflidion, and dedi- 
 cated her female ornaments in the temple at Eleufis. This 
 fabric was roofed with cedar, and Greece had not a rival to it in 
 dimenfions and magnificence. The wall of the inner front of 
 the profcenium is ftill {landing, very lofty, with open arches ; 
 ferving as part of an out-work of the caftle ; and beyond it, 
 turning up toward the caftle-gate, a portion of the exterior wall 
 
 Among the prodigies which were fuppofed to have pre-fignified the event of the 
 war between Antony, who was ftiled a new Bacchus, and Cxfar, was this ; the 
 Bacchus in the combat with the Giants was loofened by a hurricane and borne into 
 the theatre beneath. Plutarch. 
 
 ' From the year of Rome 692 to 712. v. Corfin. Infcriptionts Jttica. 
 
 K of 
 
66 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 of the right wing is vifible. On the right hand, within the 
 gate, is the way into the area, which was fown with wheat ; as 
 was alfo the circular fweep of the hill on which the feats once 
 ranged. In the wall of the profcenium on this fide is a fmall 
 niche or cavity, with a low entrance. The Dervifhes have a 
 teckeh or place of worfliip above, with a room, in which the 
 bovv^-ftring, when a Turk is fentenced to be ilrangled, is com- 
 monly adminiftered. A way leads from that part, withia the 
 out-work, to a door at the end next the theatre of Bacchus, and 
 In that line Paufanias appears to have afcended to the front of 
 the acropolis. Going on from the Odeum, without turning, 
 you defcend among Turkifh fepulchres, and by the burying- 
 grounds, into the vale at the foot of the hill. 
 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 
 Of the areopagus — T'he tribunal when extinSi — 'The pnyx — 
 
 Accoimt of pnyx. 
 
 I N the preceding chapter we have mentioned the hill of the 
 areopagus. This place is defcribed by Paufanias as oppofite to 
 the cave of Apollo and Pan. In Lucian, Mercury, arriving at 
 Athens with Juftice, who is fent by Jupiter to hold a court on 
 areopagus, bids her fit down on the hill, looking toward pnyx, 
 while he mounts up to the acropolis and makes proclamation for 
 all perfons concerned to appear before her. Juftice defires to be 
 informed, before he goes, who it was fhe beheld approaching 
 them, with horns on his head, hairy legs, and a paftoral pipe 
 in his hand. Mercury relates the ftory of Pan, and fhowing 
 her the cave, his dwelling, tells her, that feeing them from it, 
 not far off, he was coming, it was likely, to receive them. The 
 hill before noted is proved to have been that of the areopagus 
 by its fituation both with refpeft to the cave and to pnyx, of 
 which place we fhall treat next. It is afcended by fleps cut in 
 
 the 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. d-j 
 
 the rock, and by it, on the fide next to the temple of Thefeus, 
 is a fmall church of St. Dionyfius, near one ruined and a well 
 now choked up, in which, they tell you, St. Paul on fome 
 occalion was hid. The upper council of Athens affembled in the 
 areopagus, and a writer of the Auguftan age has recorded the 
 clay-roof of the fenate-houfe there as very antient and ftill 
 exifting. Paufanias informs us, that he faw on the fide next 
 the acropolis, within the inclofure or wall, a monument and 
 altar of CEdipus, and, after much enquiry, found that his bones 
 had been removed thither from Thebes. 
 
 The areopagus was long the feat of a moft ferious, filent, 
 folemn, and impartial tribunal. The end of this court of 
 judicature is as obfcure as its origin, which was derived from 
 very remote antiquity. It exifted, with the other magiftracies, 
 in the time of Paufanias. The term of its fubfequent duration 
 is not afcertained -, but a writer, who lived under the emperors 
 Theodofius the elder and younger, mentions it as extindt. The 
 adlions for murther were introduced by the archon called the 
 king, who laying afide his crown, which was of myrtle, voted 
 as a common member ; and thefe caufes were ufually tried in 
 the open air, that the criminal and his accufer might not be under 
 the fame roof. It was the bufmefs of a herald to deliver a 
 wand to each of the judges. 
 
 We have taken notice more than once of a valley between 
 the hill of the acropolis and Lycabettus. That region of the 
 antient city was called Ccele or 'The hollow. By the fide of the 
 mountain, beyond the way formerly called Through Ccele, 
 nearly oppofite to the rock of the areopagus, is a large, naked, 
 femicircular area or terrace fupported by ftones of a vaft fize, the 
 faces cut into fquares. A track leads to it between the areopa- 
 gus and the temple of Thefeus. As you afcend to the brow, 
 fome fmall channels occur, cut perhaps to receive libations. 
 The defcent into the area is by hewn fleps, and the rock within 
 is fmoothed down perpendicularly in front, extending to the 
 
 K 2 fides. 
 
68 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 fides, not in a ftrait line, but with an obtufe angle at the ileps. 
 This place has been miftaken for the areopagus, and for the 
 odeum, but was the Pnyx. 
 
 Pnyx was a place of public aflembly, not boafting the curious 
 labour of a theatre, but formed with the fimplicity of primitive 
 times. There the citizens met to tranfad their affairs ; and 
 by law no perfon could be crowned elfewhere, on a decree of 
 the people. The bufinefs was done afterwards in the theatre of 
 Bacchus ; but they continued to chufe the magiftrates and to 
 vote the flrategus or praetor in pnyx, which was hallowed by 
 command of an oracle. The furniture on record is a ftone or 
 altar, on which certain oaths were taken ; a pulpit for the 
 orators ; and a fun-dial, made on the wall when Apfeudes was 
 archon '. The pulpit, which before looked toward the fea, was 
 turned a contrary way by the thirty tyrants, who conlidered 
 naval dominion as the parent of democracy. A portion of the 
 rock near the entrance, within, was probably left for the altar 
 to be placed on it ; and a broad flep or bank, on each fide by 
 the perpendicular wall, was intended perhaps to raife the 
 magiftrates who prefided, and perfons of fuperior rank, above 
 the croud. The grooves, it may be conjedtured, were for 
 tablets containing decrees and orders. The circular wall, 
 which now reaches only to the top of the terrace, it is likely, 
 was higher and ferved as an inclofure. Excepting this, and 
 the accceffion of foil, with the removal of the altar, the pulpit, 
 and the fun-dial, pnyx may be deemed to have undergone no 
 very material alteration. It had formerly many houfes about it, 
 and that region of the city was called by its name. Cimon, 
 with Elpinice his fifler, lived in Pnyx ; and Plato relates of the 
 earlier Athens, that it had extended on one fide of the acropolis 
 toward the rivers Eridanus and IlifTus, and on the other had 
 comprized Pnyx, having beyond it mount Lycabettus. 
 
 * Before Chrift, 434. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 69 
 
 CHAP. XIV. 
 
 Story of Thefeus — A temple ereSied to him — T^he decorations — 
 Prejent Jlate of the temple — The fculptures — Gymnafium of 
 Ptolemy. 
 
 WE proceed now to the temple of Thefeus. This mofl 
 renowned hero, it is related, was born at Troezen a city of the 
 Peloponnefus, and was the fon of Neptune and iEgeus king of 
 Athens by iEthra daughter of Pittheus. His mother conducted 
 him, when fixteen years old, to a rock, beneath which ^geus 
 had depofited his fword and flippers. She diredled him to bear 
 thefe pledges to Athens ; and he refolved to go by land, though 
 the way was full of perils. In Epidauria he was flopped by 
 Periphetes, whom he flew, and afterwards carried about his 
 weapon, which was a club, in imitation of Hercules. Sinis or 
 Pityocamptes, whofe haunt was by the Ifthmus of Corinth, had 
 been accuftomed to fallen to bended pines the unfortunate 
 perfons, whom he could feize, to be torn in pieces by their 
 elafliic violence. On him Thefeus retaliated. He killed Phoea 
 the terrible fow of Crommyon, and mother of the famous 
 Caledonian boar. He then entered the Megaris and encountered 
 Sciron, whom he threw into the fea. It was the pracSbice of 
 this monfter to force paflengers to wafli his feet by a precipice 
 called Chelone, and to kick them unexpe<5tedly down. By 
 Eleufis, Cercyon made him wreft:le for his life, and was over- 
 come. By the Eleufinian Cephifllis, he flew Polypemon fur- 
 named Procrufles, compelling him to undergo the fame torture 
 which he was ufed to inflidl on travellers ; fitting their bodies 
 to his beds, either by tenflon or amputation. Paffing the 
 Cephiflus, he was hoipitably entertained by the Phytalida;. He 
 arrived at Athens on the eighth of Hecatombason or July. He 
 wore his hair platted, and a garment, which reached to his 
 
 heels. 
 
70 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 heels. iEgeus, on feeing the fword, acknowleged huii for his 
 fon. After this, Thefeus fubdued Pallas, who had rebelled j 
 and drove the Marathonian bull alive into the city, where it 
 was facrificed to Apollo Delphinius. He failed to Crete, de- 
 flroyed the Minotaur, and efcaped out of the Labyrinth, 
 affifted by a clew given him by Ariadne, daughter of Minos. 
 He made Athens the capital of all Attica, and inftituted the 
 Panathenican feflival. He defeated the Amazons. He affifted 
 Adraftus in recovering the bodies of the dead Argives from the 
 Thebans, and flew Creon their king. He was prefent at the 
 marriage-feafl of Pirithous ; and aiding, with the Lapithae, 
 to expell the Centaurs, who were intoxicated, and offered 
 violence to the women. He was fifty years old, when he 
 feized Helen, a girl not marriageable, as (he was dancing in a 
 temple at Sparta. His abettor was Pirithous, who, in return, 
 required his company on a like expedition, which proved unfor- 
 tunate. It was to procure for him the daughter of Pluto, king 
 of the Moloffi ; or, as mythologirts relate, they meditated a 
 rape of Proferpine, and defcended into hell, but were detained 
 there, condemned to fit on a rock without power to rife. 
 Hercules obtained liberty for Thefeus. In the mean time the 
 Tyndarida2 had invaded Attica, and taken Aphidna, where 
 Helen was concealed, with iEthra his mother, whom they 
 carried away into captivity. The Athenians received them into 
 the city as friends at the perfuafion of Meneftheus, whom they 
 made king. Thefeus returned to Athens, but was foon com- 
 pelled to fly. He took refuge in the ifland of Scyros, where he 
 was killed by Lycomedes, the king, who pulhed him down a 
 precipice. 
 
 It was the popular opinion at Athens, after the battle of 
 Marathon, that the fpecftre of Thefeus had been feen fighting 
 againft the Medes. The Pythia diredted the Athenians to 
 remove his relics to their city, and to honour him as a hero. 
 His bones, with a brazen helmet and a fword lying near them, 
 were difcovered by Cimon fon of Miltiades; who tranfported them 
 
 from 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 71 
 
 from Scyros, about eight hundred years after he died. The 
 Athenians received them with fplendid proceffions and facrifi- 
 ccs J and rejoiced, as if he were come again in perfon. They 
 inftituted facred rites for him, as for a God, and eredled an 
 heroum or monument on the Colonus Hippius, and a temple in 
 the city, on which they conferred the privilege of an afyluna. 
 This building, which was called the Thefeum, was in fubfe- 
 quent ages reputed fo exceedingly holy, that with the Parthenon 
 and another temple, it was generally adored. 
 
 The temple of Thefeus was decorated with {yoa,<pct,i) repre- 
 fentations of the Athenians fighting with the Amazons, and of 
 the battle of the Centaurs with the Lapithae. Thefeus was 
 diflinguiflied, as having killed a Centaur, while the others were 
 engaged in equal combat. The third wall required explanation, 
 as Paufanias obferves, partly from time, partly becaufe Micon 
 had not expreffed the whole flory. Minos, it was faid, had 
 required Thefeus to prove he was the fon of Neptune, by re- 
 covering a fignet, which he threw into the fea ; and they related, 
 that he arofe with it and with a golden crown prefented to him 
 by Amphitrite. It was Micon who painted Thefeus and the 
 Athenians fightins: with the Amazons in the Stoa or Portico 
 called Poecile. He was alfo a liatuary. 
 
 The temple of Thefeus is of the Doric order, and in the 
 flyle of its architedlure greatly refembles the Parthenon. Though 
 a very antient fabric, it is entire, except the roof, which is 
 modern, and vaulted, with an aperture or two for the admiffion 
 of light. The pavement has been removed, and the walls are 
 bare. It is a Greek church, dedicated to St. George, as good 
 a hero as Thefeus. A recefs for the holy table has been eredled, 
 as in the Parthenon, but in the pronaos; and decorated with 
 portraits of faints. The entrance is in the fide of the cell, at 
 a low door, which is kept locked, except on theYeftival, when 
 mafs is celebrated. It is plated with iron, and much battered ; 
 the Turks firing at it with bullets to try the force of their 
 
 powder. 
 
72 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 powder, the goodnefs of their pieces, or their own dexterity at a 
 mark. In the corner, within, ftands a circular marble, which 
 has ferved as a font. From the infcriptions, which range in 
 four columns, it appears to have belonged to the Prytaneum. 
 Among the names of travellers on the wall is that of Mr. 
 Vernon '. The cell has been painted on the outfide with 
 figures of faints, unlefs thefe traces, which are faint, may be 
 referred rather to the pencil of Micon. An attentive fpedlator 
 will difcover likewife fome architeftural ornaments and mould- 
 ings, with ftars in the foffits of the lacunaria of the portico*. 
 The pofticum has been injured by lightening. The fubftrudion 
 is vifible, except on the fide next the areopagus, where the foil 
 reaches nearly to the top of the flep. 
 
 The fculptures ftill extant about this temple, though much 
 impaired, witnefs the hand of a mafter, and furnifii abundant 
 proof, that Thefeus was its owner. The exploits of this hero 
 and of Hercules were carved on the metope?, in fixteen com- 
 partments, in alto relievo, and the following fubjedts are intel- 
 ligible, viz. Thefeus killing the fow of Crommyon j throwing 
 Sciron from a rock into the fea ; wreftling with Cercyon ; 
 deftroying the Minotaur; driving the bull of Marathon to' 
 Athens : Hercules firangling the Nemean lion j with lolaus 
 deftroying the hydra ; receiving the golden apples from a nymph, 
 one of the Hefperides. Mr. Pars copied thefe with the bafs 
 reliefs of the pronaos and pofticum, except a few flones de- 
 figned by Mr. Stuart. In the fculpture of the poflicum, it is 
 remarkable, that Thefeus is diftinguifhed in the fame manner as 
 by Micon. He is killing a Centaur, whom he has thrown on 
 the ground, backwards. In another piece two Centaurs arc 
 burying one of the Lapithse in a pit alive, laying over him a 
 
 ' See his letter relating to Greece, and particularly to Athens. Philofoph. Tranf. 
 n. 124. For an account of the author, fee JFood's Athen. Oxon. 2d Ed. v. 2. 
 col. 599, 600. 
 
 * Mr. Pars found out the method ufed in drawing the echinus or eggs and anchors^ 
 from the marks of the compalTes on the wall. 
 
 large 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 73 
 
 large ftone. On another is the battle with the Thebans, and 
 Creon dead. Two figures with fhields may be Hercules and 
 his companion lolaus defcending into hell, where they find 
 Thefeus and Pirithous fitting on rocks, and between them a 
 female, perhaps Metanoia or Repentance. 
 
 The temple of Thefeus was near the Gymnafium of Ptolemy, 
 which was not far from the agora or market-place. In the 
 gymnafium, befides other ftatues, was one of the founder in 
 brafs, A remnant of maflive wall in the town, not far from 
 the temple, is fuppofed to have been part of that building. 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 A marble arch or gate-way — 'The temple ofjupiter Olympius——Not 
 Jinijhed before Hadrian — Number of Jlatues, (^c. — T'/ie ruin 
 — Of the water of Athens — An aquceduSl — Of the Erida- 
 nus and Ilijfus — Remark — An antient bridge. 
 
 AFTER the temple of Thefeus no ruin occurs without the 
 town, keeping the acropolis, as before, on the right hand, until 
 we come oppofite to the end of the rock, where the fcaffold 
 was (landing. There, at fome diftance in the plain, is a marble 
 gate, which feparated the old city from Hadrianopolis or New 
 Athens. It is related, that Thefeus ereded a fiela or column 
 on the ifthmus of Corinth, which remained above an hundred 
 years, to the time of Codrus, when it was demolifhed by the 
 Peloponnefians. It had infcriptions in Greek. On one fide, 
 ** Here is Peloponnefus, not Ionian" and on the other ** Here 
 ** is not Peloponnefus, but Ionia." The gate, ferving as a 
 boundary, is infcribed in capitals in like manner. Over the 
 arch on one fide, " What you fee is Athens, the old city of 
 " Thefeus ;" and on the other front, '* What you fee is the 
 " city of Hadrian, and not of Thefeus." We dug down to 
 
 L the 
 
74 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 the bafement, and with much difficulty procured ladders fuffi- 
 ciently long and ftrong to alcend and meafure the upper part. 
 From the traces of painting on the walls above, it appears that 
 a church has been erefted againft it. This fabric, which is of 
 the Corinthian order, with the tower of the Winds and other 
 flrudlures at Athens, is feen to difadvantage from the acceffion 
 of foil round about it. Beyond it, within the region of new 
 Athens, is the majeftic ruin of the temple of Jupiter Olympius. 
 
 Deucalion was faid to have eredled the firfl temple of 
 Jupiter on this fpot; and the place of his burial was {hown near 
 it to prove that he had lived at Athens. Pififtratus the fecond 
 founder dying, his fons carried on the work ; but after they 
 were flain, fo many difficulties occurred, that it remained for 
 ages unfinifhed j a fpecimen of the only temple in the world 
 defigned with a grandeur worthy of the ruler of heaven ; and 
 exciting aftonifhment in every beholder. About four hundred 
 years after Pififtratus, Antiochus Epiphanes promifed to com- 
 plete it ; and Coffiatius, a Roman, the architedl, is extolled for 
 his noble ideas of magnitude in the cell, and for difpofing the 
 columns and the entablature with an exadl fymmetry, which 
 teftified his exquilite knowlege and ikill. It is likely he was 
 employed in fitting up the infide of the fabric, in which, as 
 well as in the Parthenon, were colonnades. The temple was a 
 dipteros and hypcethros, or with double rows of columns and 
 open to the fky ; though not, as was moft common, with ten, 
 but with eight, columns in front. Rome affi^rded no example 
 of this fpecies. It was one of the four marble edifices, which 
 had raifed to the pinnacle of renown the architefts ', who 
 planned them -, men, it is faid, admired in the afTembly of 
 the gods for their wifdom and excellence. 
 
 Sylla, when he punifhed Athens, dared to plunder even 
 Jupiter Olympius, and removed columns and brazen thrciholds 
 
 ' Antiftates, Callaefchros, Antimachides, and Porinus were the earlier archi- 
 tedls employed on this fabric. 
 
 to 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 75 
 
 to adorn the capitol at Rome. The ftrudlure ftill continu- 
 ing imperfedt, the kings in alliance with Auguftus agreed 
 to finifh it by contribution, and jointly dedicate it to the 
 Genius of the emperor. Afterwards, by command of Cali- 
 gula, the image of Jupiter was tranfported to the capitol, 
 where the god fubmitted to lofe his own head, which was 
 broken off, and to accept in its room that of a monfter lefs 
 civil to him even than Sylla. It was referved for Hadrian to put 
 the laft hand to a work, on which Athens had expended feven 
 thoufand eighty-eight talents, and which Antiochus, with 
 united kings, had been ambitious of completing. This achieve- 
 ment of the emperor was celebrated in a hymn fung at the 
 facrifice, when he dedicated the fabric to Jupiter, more than 
 feven hundred years after its foundation by Pififtratus ; and he 
 acquired from it the title of Olympius. He placed in the 
 temple an uncommon ferpent brought from India. 
 
 We ftiall infert here an extraft from Paufanias relating to 
 this temple. " The image of Jupiter is worth feeing, not 
 " for its fimilitude to other flatues in fize, for thofe of the 
 «« Romans and Rhodians are not coloffal, but as made of ivory 
 ** and gold, and with art, as will be perceived by thofe who 
 ** confider its magnitude. The ftatues of Hadrian there are 
 *' two of Thafian marble, and two of Egyptian. The Athe- 
 *• nian Colonies ftand in brafs before the columns. The whole 
 *' inclofure is about four ftadia, half a mile, in circumference, 
 ** and full of ftatues ; for one of Hadrian was dedicated by 
 ** each of the cities, and Athens has exceeded them all by 
 " offering the Coloffus, (which was behind the temple and 
 " worthy of notice.) The antiquities within the inclofure are 
 ** a brazen Jupiter, and a temple of Saturn and Rhea, and the 
 '• portion of this goddefs who is called Olympia. There the 
 ** pavement is rent afunder as much as a cubit j and they relate, 
 " that after the Deucalionean flood the chafm afforded a paffage 
 *' to the water i and they caft yearly into it wheat flower mixed 
 ^' with honey. And, befides a ftatue of Ifocrates, there is a 
 
 L 2 ** brazen 
 
76 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 ** brazen tripod fupported by Perlians, of Phrygian marble, 
 •• worth feeing." Of the pedeftals, which belonged to thefe 
 ftatues, feveral are found fcattered about in the town, fixed in 
 the walls, or half buried in earth -, and fome of the infcriptions 
 are preferved. Among them is that of one of the Thafian 
 images, which I faw immured at a church, and copied. Within 
 the peribolus or inclofure is part of another, a maflive piece 
 of white marble, lying, probably near its original fite, the face, 
 which is infcribed with very large charafters, downwards. From 
 thefe it appears that the prieft of the temple at the time of their 
 eredlion was named Tiberius Claudius Atticus, and, it is fup- 
 pofed, was the famous Herodes. The inclofure has been de- 
 molifhed, but a terrace of confiderable extent is ftill fuftained 
 by part of the wall, which on the fide next to the IlilTus ia 
 ftrengthened with buttrefles. 
 
 The ruin of the temple of Jupiter Olympius confifts of 
 prodigious columns, tall and beautiful, of the Corinthian order, 
 fluted ; fome fingle, fome fupporting their architraves j with a 
 few maflive marbles beneath; the remnant of a vaft heap, which 
 only many ages could have confumed and reduced into fo fcanty 
 a compafs. The columns are of very extraordinary dimenfions, 
 being about fix feet in diameter, and near fixty in height '. The 
 number without the cell was one hundred and fixteen or twenty. 
 Seventeen were {landing in 1676 ; but, a few years before we 
 arrived, one was overturned, with much difficulty, and applied 
 to the building a new mofque in the Bazar or market-place. 
 This violence was avenged by the Bafhaw of Negropont, who 
 made it a pretext for extorting from the vaiwode or governor 
 fifteen purfes ; the pillar being, he alledged, the property of 
 their mafter, the Grand Signior. It was an angular column and 
 of confequence in determining the dimenfions of the fabric. 
 We regretted, that the fall of this mighty mafs had not been 
 pofl:poned until we came, as it would have afforded an opportu- 
 nity of infpe(5ling and meafuring fome members, which we 
 
 • Ruins of Athens, p. 39. 
 
 found 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. -jj 
 
 found far too lofty to be attempted. On a piece of the archi- 
 trave fupported by a couple of columns, are two parallel walls, 
 of modern mafonry, arched about the middle, and again near 
 the top. You are told it has been the habitation of a hermit, 
 doubtlefs of a Stylites ; but of whatever building it has been 
 part, and for whatever purpofe defigned, it mufl have been 
 eredled thus high in air, while the immenfe ruin of this huge flruc- 
 ture was yet fcarcely diminifhed, and the heap inclined fo as to 
 render it acceffible. It was remarked that two ftones of a ftep 
 in the front had coalefced at the extremity, fo that no jundure 
 could be perceived ; and the like was difcovered alio in a ftep of 
 the Parthenon. In both inftances it may be attributed to a con- 
 cretory fluid, which pervades the marble in the quarry. Some 
 portion remaining in the pieces, when taken green as it were, 
 and placed in mutual contadl, it exfuded and united them by a 
 procefs fimilar to that in a bone of an animal when broken and 
 properly fet^ 
 
 The water antiently conveyed in channels to the city and to 
 the Piraeus, coming from fources in the mountains, which abound 
 with ore, was hard, and had a fcum fwimming on the furface, 
 fuch as may be ftill feen at the public cifterns, was unfit to 
 drink, and applicable folely to other ufes. The wells afforded a 
 more wholfome fluid, but were the occafion of many quarrels. 
 Solon enaded that all, who lived within four ftadia, or half a 
 mile, of a public well, fliould have the privilege of drawing 
 from it ; that thofe who were more remote fhould provide their 
 own water, but fhould be allowed a certain quantity daily from 
 the next well, if they found none on digging ten fathom deep. 
 The tranfgrefTors were fined by the Epiflates or prasfedt of the 
 waters. The city now abounds in wells, fome houfes having 
 three or four, in confequence of thefe early and wife regu- 
 lations. 
 
 New Athens was fupplied with water by the munificence of 
 Hadrian from remote fources, at a vaft expenfe. He founded a 
 very extenfive aquaeduft, of which many piers are yet /landing 
 
yS TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 in the traft beneath Cephifia, or Cevrifha, as that village is now 
 called. It was finished by his fon and fucceflbr Antoninus Pius 
 in his third confulate. The water was partly conveyed by a 
 duft running along the fide of the adjacent hill, and diftributed 
 to the town from a refervoir or ciftern cut in the rock, and 
 fronted with an arcade of marble, of the Ionic order. One 
 half of this remains, conlifting of two columns and the fpring 
 of the arch. The foil is rifen feme feet round about the (hafts. 
 Over the columns is half the infcription ', which was copied 
 entire by Spon from a manufcript then two hundred years old, 
 and was as follows : 
 
 The part remaining. 
 IMP. CAESAR T. AELIVS 
 
 AVG.PIVSCOS.IIITRIB.POT.II.P.P.AQVAEDVCTVMINNOVIS 
 
 CONSVMMAVIT 
 
 The part fupplied. 
 HADRIANVS ANTONINVS 
 
 J\.THENIS COEPTVM ADIVO HADRIANO P A T R E S VO 
 
 DEDICAVITQ; 
 
 The ftate of this ruin was the fame in 1676 as now. It ftands 
 beneath the mountain of St. George, antiently, it is fuppofed, 
 Anchefmusi and is about a mile from the gate of Hadrian. 
 The fpace between, where once was new Athens, is now 
 ploughed and fowed. 
 
 On the left hand, returning from the aquaeduft, is the bed 
 of the Iliflus i and higher up, the junction of it and of the 
 Eridanus. The water of this river was fo bad that the cattle 
 
 I In the Modern Univerfal Hiftory it is made to refer to New Athens in Delos. 
 See volume of Chronology, p. 1031. 
 
 would 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 79 
 
 would fcarcely drink of it. The Iliffus is now, as it ever was, 
 an occafional torrent. In fummer it is quite dry. During our 
 refidence at Athens, I feveral times vifited the bed, after fnow 
 had fallen on the mountains, or heavy rain, hoping to fee it 
 filled to the margin, and rufhing along with majeftic violence ; 
 but never found even the furface covered ; the water lodging in 
 the rocky cavities, and trickling from one to another. 
 
 And here it may be remarked, that the poets who celebrate 
 the Iliffus as a ftream laving the fields, cool, lucid, and the like, 
 have both conceived and conveyed a falfe idea of this renowned 
 water-courfe. They may bcftow a willow fringe on its naked 
 banks, amber waves on the muddy Masander, and hanging 
 woods on the bare fleep of Delphi, if they pleafe ; but the 
 foundation in nature will be wanting ; nor indeed is it cafy for 
 a defcriptive writer, when he exceeds the fphere of his own 
 obfervation, to avoid falling into local abfurdities and untruths. 
 
 Going on by the bed of the Iliffus, as before, toward the town, 
 you come to a ruinous bridge of three arches, the ftones maffive, 
 and without cement. A piece of ordinary wall, ftanding on it, 
 is part of a monaftcry, which was abandoned after the Turks 
 took Athens. The ingenious Frenchman ', who, in a view of 
 this fpot, has exhibited the bridge ftanding in a full flream, 
 may juftly plead, that the fame liberties have been indulged to 
 the painter as to the poet. 
 
 » See Le Roy 
 
 CHAP. 
 
8o TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 CHAP. XVI. 
 
 The Jladium — Rebuilt hy Atticus Herodes — Prefent Jiate — 
 A temple by the IliJJtis — Once the Ekujiniutn — The lejfer myf- 
 teries — Temple of Diana the huntrefs — The fountain Callirhoe 
 or 'Enneacrmius — Scene of a dialogue of Plato — Changed. 
 
 THE bridge over the bed of the Iliflus, mentioned in the 
 preceding chapter, is oppofite to the ftadiuni called the Pana- 
 thenasan from a folemn feftival of all the Athenians, at which 
 the games were held there. By uniting the two banks it made 
 the crofling eafy, and prevented any inconvenience if a flood 
 happened. The rewards of vidlory in the gymnic exercifes per- 
 formed in the ftadium were a crown of olive, and ajar of moft 
 pretious oil, the produce of holy trees called Moriae. Thefe were 
 twelve in number, immediate defcendants from the original olive 
 of Minerva Polias, planted in the Academy, and on account of 
 their fandity untouched by the Lacedaemonians, when they in- 
 vaded Attica. Li it private merit was emblazoned by public 
 gratitude, the herald proclaiming the honorary decrees of the 
 people, with the names of the perfons prefented with ftatues 
 and golden crowns ; and it was regarded as a glorious recom- 
 penfe, to be diftinguiflied and applauded in this allembly. The 
 emperor Hadrian prefided, when at Athens, and furnifhed a 
 thoufand wild bealts to be hunted for their diverfion. The 
 ftadium was one of the works of Lycurgus, and the ground- 
 plat a torrent-bed, which he fmoothed. 
 
 The fladium of Lycurgus was much decayed, when Atticus 
 Herodes, pleafed with a crown, which had been conferred on 
 him, and with his reception at the Panathenaea, rofe up and 
 addreffing the company, promifed the Athenians to provide for 
 them, and for the Greeks who fhould repair to the next fo- 
 
 lemnity. 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. Si 
 
 letnnlty, and for thofe who fhould contend at it, a new fladiuin 
 of white marble. This was completed in four years, chiefly 
 from the quarries on mount Pentele, and is extolled as without 
 a rival, and as unequalled by any theatre. " What indeed, 
 ** fays Paufanias, is not alike pleafing to thofe, who have heard 
 •• of it, but is a wonder to thofe who have feen it, is the 
 " ftadium of Herodes the Athenian. One may guefs at the 
 " magnitude from hence. It is a mountain beginning at a 
 ** diftance, beyond the IliiTus, of a lunar form, reaching to the 
 " river-bank, ftrait and double." The author, it feems, would 
 infinuate, that the magnificence of Herodes was a topic not 
 very agreeable. By the will of his father the people were 
 entitled to a large bequeftj but among his papers were found 
 vouchers for fums borrowed to a great amount. Herodes had 
 balanced the old debt with the legacy. This had raifed a 
 clamour ; many murmuring, as defrauded of their due ; and 
 thefe affirmed, it was indeed a Panathenaean ftadium, for that 
 all the Athenians paid for it. On one fide was a temple of 
 Fortune, with a ftatue of ivory. 
 
 When the Panathenaea, with the other fpedlacles, ceafed, 
 the ftadium became as ufelefs as the odeum or theatre, and was 
 treated in like manner. The mountain, on which auarries were 
 exhaufted, has been totally ftripped of its marble covering. 
 The feats were continued in rows very high up, on the fide 
 next the fea ; the flopes favouring fuch a difpofition. At the 
 two extremities by the Iliflus is fome ftone-work. The area, 
 which produces grain, has been exadly meafured, and found to 
 be fix hundred and thirty Englifli feet long. On the left hand, 
 going up it, near the top, is a fubterraneous pafl'age through 
 the mountain, once under the feats. This was a private way, 
 by which the prefident of the games, the magiftrates, and 
 priefts entered to take their places, after the fpedtators were 
 met i and by which, it has been furmifed, thofe who con- 
 tended and were unfuccefsful made their retreat. Such avenues 
 were not uncommon in the ftadiums of Greece. 
 
 M Going 
 
82 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 Going on from the ftadium without crofling the IlilTus, you 
 have a folitary church on the left hand at a diftance, and before 
 you a temple of white marble feated on the rock by the fide of 
 the river. This has been transformed, as well as the Parthenon 
 and the temple of Thefeus, into a church, named Sf. Mary on 
 the rock. It was abandoned by the Greeks, as defecrated, after 
 the Romifh mafs had been celebrated in it, in 1672, by order 
 of the marquis de Nointell. On the wall next Hymettus are 
 lines of one or two fmall fundials, and in the vaulted roof is the 
 trunk of a little female flatue. Some traces remain of figures 
 and of architedlural ornaments painted in the infide. An exadt 
 view of this temple is given in T^he Ruins of Athens, to which 
 valuable work the reader is here referred. The fabric has 
 fuftained fome damage fince, the exterior column next to the 
 IlifTus, in the front, being ruined, and the capital lying on the 
 rock, much maimed. The fubftrudlion of the oppofite end is 
 fo impaired, that it is likely a farther downfall will foon enfue j 
 when the materials will be removed, as wanted, and the fite in 
 a few years become hardly diftinguifliable. 
 
 The antients preferred particular £tuations for the temples 
 of certain deities. A place, without the city, which men had 
 no occafion to approach, but at fet times, and to facrifice, was 
 commonly chofen for Ceres ; fhe requiring, that it fhould be 
 kept pure by chafte religion and fandtity of manners. The tem- 
 ple before defcribed has flood on fuch a fpot, and, it is believed, 
 was the famous Eleufinium belonging to Ceres and Proferpine, 
 before which was a ftatue of Triptolemus, mentioned by Paufa- 
 nias, who then enters on a detail of his flory, but, as he 
 afferts, was prevented from proceeding in it and in his account 
 of the temple by a dream ; and therefore pafTes on to topics, of 
 which he was at liberty to treat without referve. This place 
 was regarded by the people with the fame reverence as the 
 Parthenon and Thefeum. 
 
 The LeJJ'er Myjleries, which belonged to Proferpine were 
 folemnized yearly in the month Anthefterion or February, in the 
 
 region 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 83 
 
 region called Agrae, which was beyond the IlifTus. They 
 who afpired to initiation were forewarned to come with 
 clean hands and hearts, and a knowlege of the Greek tongue ; 
 befides an awful fenfe of the great holinefs of thofe antient 
 things to which they were about to be introduced. The 
 herald commanded all murderers, magicians, and wicked or 
 impious perfons to depart. The affembly was purified by a 
 folemn luftration on the myftic banks of the IlifTus. The 
 ceremony was accompanied with prayer and facrifice, the 
 vidlim a young pig. When the rites had been fulfilled, they 
 were admitted into the Eleufinium, probably in companies ; for 
 it is defcribed as a fmall building. Afterwards, they were 
 ftiled Myftae, and were expefted to obferve certain injunc- 
 tions, of which one was to abflain from eating red mullet, .a 
 delicacy facred to Ceres. One year at lead intervened, before 
 they could attain to the Greater Myjleries, to which thefe were 
 preparatory. Secrecy impenetrable, with night, veiled the 
 whole tranfadlion. This initiation was in the popular opinion 
 tof no trivial confequence. The negledl of it is among the 
 crirnes imputed to Socrates. Greeks, Romans, and perfons 
 from remoter countries, of both fexes, were defirous to partake 
 of it, and Athens at the feafon was crouded with devotees j 
 receiving yearly into the Eleufinium more people, than repaired 
 to fome other cities. 
 
 Beyond the Eleufinium, in Agrae, was a temple of Diana 
 Agraea. She was reprefented bearing a bow, and named Agro- 
 tera, the huntrefs. It was faid, fhe had hunted there on her firft 
 arrival from Delos. When the Medes landed at Marathon, the 
 Athenians made a vow to her, to offer a goat for each of the 
 enemy whom they fliould kill ; but flie proved fo %'ery propiti- 
 ous, that a fufficient number of vidims could not be procured, 
 and they decreed to facrifice yearly five hundred, as was the 
 cuflom in the time of Xenophon. From this event fhe was 
 named Euclea, or Glorious. Her temple was erected from the 
 fpoils, which they dedicated, and in 1676 was a church called 
 
 M 2 - (Stavrojis 
 
84 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 (Stavrojis Petru, or Stavromenu Petru) St. Peter's Crucifixion. 
 It was of white marble, and the floor Mofaic. The file is now 
 occupied by the church mentioned as on our left coming from 
 the ftadium, a recent and mean ftrudlure, with fragments of 
 columns and marbles lying in and about it. The Mofaic pavement 
 was ordinary, much broken, and covered with dirt, fwarm- 
 ing, as we experienced, with large fleas. A ikull or two and 
 fome human bones were fcattered on it. We found there an 
 Ionic capital with marks of the compafles ufed in forming the 
 volute. 
 
 Beneath the Eleufinium, in a rocky dell, is a fmall church 
 with fome buildings, and trees, and veftiges of the fountain 
 Callirhoe, or, as it was called after Pififtratus had furnifhed it 
 vf'ixh nine pipes, Enneacrunus. This was without the gate of 
 Diochares, and near the Lyceum ; the Water copious, clear, and 
 fit to drink. The current is now conveyed into the town, 
 and only the holes, at which it iffued into the ciftern, remain. 
 Thefe are in the rocky bank next to the temple of Jupiter 
 Olympius, which is in the way to the gate dividing the cities of 
 Thefeus and Hadrian, and not remote. At a little diflance 
 is a modern ruinous fountain. 
 
 In one of the dialogues of Plato, Socrates is reprefented as 
 meeting Phsdrus, who was going from a houfe by the temple 
 of Jupiter Olympius toward the Lyceum, which was without 
 the city. Perceiving, as they walked, that he had a book in his 
 left hand, under his garment, Socrates propofed turning out of 
 the road, and fitting down by the Iliflus. Phaedrus confents, 
 pointing to a lofty plane-tree as a proper place ; and obferving, 
 that as both had their feet naked, it would not be difagreeable 
 to wet them, efpecially at that time of the year and day. The 
 converfation changes to a local ftory, that Boreas had carried off 
 Orithyia, daughter of Eredheus, as fhe was fporting by the 
 Iliflus, not by the fountain, but two or three fladia lower down, 
 where was the crofling over to go to the temple of Diana Agrasa, 
 
 and 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. S5 
 
 and where was the altar of Boreas. On their arrival at the 
 chofen fpot, Socrates admires it, like a ftranger or one rarely 
 ftirring out of the city into the hilly country round about. He 
 praifes the large and tall tree ; the thicket of Agnus Caftus, 
 high and fhady, then in full flower and fragrant ; the cool deli- 
 cious fountain running near,with the girls by it, and the images, 
 which made it feem a temple of the Nymphs and Achelous ; the 
 grateful and fweet air ; the fhrill fummer-chorus of locufts ; 
 and the elegance of verdure, prepared as it were to meet the re- 
 clining head. 
 
 The vicinity of Enneacrunus has ceafed to deferve en- 
 comiums like thofe bellowed on it by Socrates, fince it has 
 been deprived of the wafte water of the fountain, which 
 chiefly nourifhed the herbage and the plane-tree. The marble- 
 facing and the images are removed ; and the place is now dry, 
 except a pool at the foot of the rock, down which the Ilifllis 
 commonly trickles. The water, which overflows after rain, is 
 ufed by a currier, and is often offenflve. The church in this 
 dell occupies, it is probable, the fite of the altar of the Mufes, 
 to whom, among other deities, the Ilifliis was facred. One 
 lower down ftands perhaps where Boreas had an altar. This 
 God was believed to have aflifled the Athenians in the Perfian 
 war, and was on that account honoured with a temple. By the 
 IliflTus Codrus was flain. 
 
 CHAP. XVII. 
 
 T'/ie Mufeum — Monument of Fh'ilopappus — Sepulchres — 'The 
 Cimonian fepulchres — T^he eminence fronting the acropolis, 
 
 FOLLOWING the courfe of the Ilifl'us from Enneacrunus 
 you have the theatre of Bacchus and the Od^um at a diftance 
 on the right hand. The intermediate plain, which made part 
 of the Ceramicus "within the city, has in feveral places the 
 
 fcattered 
 
86 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 fcattered flones and rubbifli of its former edifices. By the bed 
 of the river are fome maffes of brick-work and traces of build- 
 ing ; with a folitary church founded on a fmall rock. Farther 
 on is the mountainous range lying before the Acropolis, of which 
 the portion next to the Iliflus was called the Mufeum, and, 
 was faid to have received its name from Mufceus, a difciple 
 of Orpheus, who, it was related, fung, and, dying of old age, 
 was buried there. The fummit was fortified by Antigonus and 
 his fon Demetrius Poliorcetes ; but a fmall body of the Athe- 
 nians fucceeded in an attempt to fcale, and expelled the garrifon 
 of Macedonians. The path of the wall, which afcended the hill, 
 may be feen, when the ground is free from corn and herbage. 
 
 Pausanias informs us, that a monument had been 
 erected on the Mufeum for a Syrian ', but conceals his name. 
 A part of it is ftill extant, with infcriptions. The ruin is of 
 white marble, a portion of a femicircle, the convex fide toward 
 the Pira!us. It confifls of two niches, and on the left was a 
 third, which, it is fuppofed, completed the fymmetry of the 
 ftrudure. In the firft niche on the right is a ftatue fedent ; 
 and underneath, an infcription in Greek, " King Antiochus, 
 " Son of King Antiochus." In the middle niche is another 
 ftatue and infcription, " Philopappus, fon of Antiochus Epi- 
 ** phanes, of Bifa." This place was one of the demi or towns 
 of the tribe Antiochis, which had its name from king Antiochus, 
 who had been a great benefactor to the Athenians. Thefe were 
 the anceftors of the perfon, who, it is probable, filled the third 
 niche. He is recorded on a pilafi:er between the two ftatues in 
 a Latin infcription, which, it has been conjedlured, was con- 
 tinued on the pilafter now miffing. His name was Caius Julius 
 Antiochus Philopappus, and he lived under Trajan. The 
 pofterity of king Antiochus were removed by Pompey to Rome, 
 
 ' Paufanias, p. 24. See a comment on this paffage in Daniel by the LXX. 
 p, 629. Rome 1772. The author of the Diflertation makes Mufaeus to have 
 been Mofes, and Mofes the Syrian here mentioned. 
 
 and 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 87 
 
 and reduced to the rank of citizens. The Syrian of Paufanias, 
 it is fuppofed, was this Philopappus, one of his defcendants. 
 From the infcription it appears that he attained to the dignity of 
 conful, but, as he is not regiftered in the confular tables, it is 
 moft likely that he was only dejigned, and did not furvive to take 
 the chair. The emperor is ftiled in the infcription OPTVMVS, 
 which title was not beftowed on him before the year of Chrift one 
 hundred and fifteen'. On the bafement beneath the pilafter is a 
 bold relievo reprefenting a perfon in a chariot drawn by four 
 horfes, preceded by attendants and followed by Vidoryj the 
 figures as large as life. The foil beneath is waflied away, and 
 the bare rock with the fubftrud:ion is vifiblej the fpedator {land- 
 ing feme feet below the intended level. Near it is rubbifh of 
 a church. We employed an old Albanian to watch nightly on 
 our fcaffold, to prevent the ropes from being pilfered. 
 
 I N the fide of the rock of the Mufe'um next to the Ilifl"uSy 
 are the fepulchres, which we noted in our way from the Piraeus. 
 Some time after Solon, it was enadled at Athens, that no 
 fepulchre fliould have more labour beftowed on it than could be 
 performed by ten men in three days j that the roof fliould be 
 plain ; and that no Hermse or Mercurial flatues {hould be 
 allowed. Thefe perhaps are of a remoter antiquity, and were 
 defigned for no vulgar tenants; but, though manfions of the 
 illuftrious dead, they have long fince been ftripped of their 
 marble-facings and ornaments, and are now open, and defiled ; 
 ferving chiefly to flielter cattle from the fun. 
 
 We now enter the valley at the foot of the hill of the 
 acropolis, in which is a track leading between Pnyx and the 
 Areopagus, toward the temple of Thefeus. This region was- 
 called Ccele, or the Hollow. On the left hand is a gap in the 
 
 I V. Fabrett. ad Col. Traj. In the following year the title Parthicus was con- 
 firmed to Trajan. Dio. This does not occur among the titles on the pilafter,. 
 and the omiflion will afcertain the date, if it be fuppofed that the infcription was 
 not continued. 
 
 mountain^ 
 
88 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 mountain, where, it is believed, was the Melitenfian gate ; and 
 within, is a fepulchre or two in the rock. Going on, other 
 fepulchres hewn in the fide of the mountain, like thofe firft 
 mentioned, occur; and here again we may regret that no 
 friendly infcription informs us of their refpedtive owners ; but 
 thefe were named T'/ie Cimojiiati fepulchres. Herodotus relates, 
 that the fepulchre of Cimon, father of Miltiades, was fronting 
 the acropolis, beyond the way C2i\\td Through Coele , and that, 
 near him were interred his mares, which had obtained for him 
 three vidories at Olympia. Cimon, fon of Miltiades, died in 
 Cyprus, and Thucydides the hiftorian was flain in Thrace; 
 but the relics of each were tranfported to the burying-place of 
 their family. The fepulchre of Thucydides was by that of 
 Elpinice, the fifler of Cimon, in Ccele, not far from the 
 Melitenfian gate, and in it was a flela or column infcribed. 
 " Thucydides fon of Olorus, of Alinius." There alfo was 
 fliown a tomb of Herodotus. 
 
 The afcent to the brow is farther on the left hand, beyond 
 Pnyx ; and by the track are fmall channels, already mention- 
 ed, cut in the rock, perhaps to receive libations. From that 
 eminence, on which the Perfians, and before them the Ama- 
 zons, encamped near the Areopagus, the Venetians battered 
 the acropolis with four mortars and fix pieces of cannon, in 
 1687, when the roof of the Parthenon was deftroyed. This 
 event was remembered by a little old man living at Athens, 
 who conduced me to a ruined windmill above Pnyx as (land- 
 ing on or near the fpot from which the bomb was thrown. 
 
 CHAP, 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 89 
 
 CHAP. XVIII. 
 
 Of the gate calfed Dipylon —AbJiraB of Paufanias — Ihe Pom- 
 peium, &c. — Statues of fupiter and Hadrian — Of Harmo- 
 dius and Ariftogiton — Paintings in Pcecile — the region called 
 Melite — 'The Agora — The altar of Pity. 
 
 WE fliould proceed next to the antiquities within the prefenl 
 town, but thefe have been publilhed with accuracy and fidelity 
 by two of our countrymen, one of whom was my companion 
 in this expedition. To their work I refer the curious reader ; 
 and, to complete our view of this illuflrious city, fliall now 
 divert Paufanias of the digreflions, which obfcure his method, 
 and follow him, as it were unembarraffed, in his furvey ; fub- 
 joining fome farther account of a few of the places, and fuch 
 remarks on their fituation as may contribute to enlarge our 
 knowlege of the general topography of antient Athens. But 
 firft we fliall treat of the gate Dipylon. 
 
 Dipylon was the gate at which Sylla entered from the 
 Pirasus, and was fometimes called the Pircean Gate. It led 
 toward Thria and Eleufis, and was likewife called the Thriafian 
 and the Sacred Gate. A region within and a fuburb without it 
 being named the Ceramicus, it was alfo called the Gate of the 
 Ceramicus. Being placed as it were in the mouth of the city, 
 it was larger and wider than the other gates, and had broad 
 avenues to it. One was from the Agora or market-place, a 
 portion of the inner Ceramicus; which was on the fide of the 
 Acropolis next mount Hymettus. At this the citizens could 
 march out in battle-array, pafTmg, it fliould feem, through Coele; 
 The principal flaughter made by Sylla was about the Agora, in 
 the Ceramicus j and when the citadel was reduced, he inclofed 
 there and decimated the Athenians. 
 
 N Pausanias 
 
90 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 Pausanias, on his arrival in the city from the Pira?us, notes 
 firft an edifice called the Pompeium, and a temple of Ceres near 
 it ; and then the ftoas or porticoes, adorned with brafs ftatues, 
 extending from the gate, which was Dipylon, into the Cerami- 
 cus. He begins with the ftoa named the Mercuries, which had 
 temples of the gods; the gymnafium of Mercury ; the houfe of 
 Polytion, then facred to Bacchus ; and after it, a building with 
 ftatues. This brings him into the Ceramicus. Pie then 
 returns to the iloa on the right, which had ftatues and was 
 called the Royal; becaufe there was the tribunal of the archon 
 ftiled the King. The afcent of the Areopagus being long and 
 wearifome to old men, the venerable fenate fometimes met in 
 this portico. There ftood Jupiter Eleutherius, or the Deliverer ; 
 and the emperor Hadrian. The ftoa of Jupiter was behind. 
 This he defcribes next 3 with the temple of Apollo Patrous, 
 which was near -, the Metroum or temple of Cybele ; the 
 Senate-houfe of the Five-hundred ; the Tholus ; and higher up, 
 a range of ftatues, among which were the ten heroes ftiled the 
 Eponymi ; and Attalus, Ptolemy, and Hadrian, from whom 
 likewife tribes were named ; and after thefe, befides others, 
 Lycurgus, and Demofthenes. Near this ftatue was a temple of 
 Mars, probably at the Areopagus ; and then, not far oft", the fta- 
 tues of Harmodius and Ariftogiton ; then the ftatues before the 
 entrance of the Odeum; then the Odeum; the fountain Ennea- 
 crunus ; the Eleufinium beyond it ; and more remote, the 
 temple of Diana Euclea in Agras. The author returns into the 
 city, and begins again, above the Ceramicus and royal Portico, 
 with the Hephxfteum or temple of Vulcan and Minerva, by 
 which was a temple of Venus Urania ; then, going toward 
 the portico called Poecile, was the Hermes Agoraeus or Mercury * 
 of the Agora ; and near it, a gate ', on which was a trophy 
 
 ' By the gate near the Mercury of the Agora, wine was fold Jtt. Le£i. p. 1884. 
 That perhaps is the gate mentioned by Plutarch, 'ias h 01x6.8,- Ja-vJ/iw 1« 05« «/x« ■^nvrt 
 
 7r«A*5 IS oofpw |«» 'l-amut, Philojirat, p. 577. 
 
 for 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 91 
 
 for a vi(flory obtained by the Athenian cavalry from a general of 
 Caflander. In the Agora was an altar of Pity. This abftradt 
 comprizes a portion of the old city by Dipylon, the region in 
 the front of the Acropolis and the pl^iin on the fide next 
 Hymettus, or, the Ceramicus within the city, of which the 
 Agora was part ; and extends into the fuburb, beyond the 
 II in us. 
 
 The Pompeium was a building in which all the neceflaries 
 for the folemn feftivals were prepared, and the veflels of gold and 
 filver were kept, to be delivered to the bearers appointed at the 
 PanathentEan and other grand proceffions. The mention of 
 this place, of Polytion, and of the Mercuries, will remind the 
 claflical reader of the enormities of Alcibiades. He made ufe 
 of the confecrated plate at his table, and refufed to reftore it ; 
 he imitated the myfteries of Eleufis in the houfe of Polytion, 
 wearing a ftole and perfonating the hierophant or chief prieft; 
 and in the night he defaced all the Mercuries, except one. In 
 the Tholus, which was a round building, fometimes called Scias, 
 were fmall images of filver, and there the magiftrates filled 
 Prytanes facriticed and feafted. 
 
 The portico of Jupiter Eleutherius and the Royal were near 
 to each other. The ftatue of Jupiter Eleutherius was eredled 
 on the defeat of the Medes. The infcription gave him like- 
 wife the title of Saviour. Hadrian, who was ranked with him, 
 had been, as Paufanias adds, a great benefactor to other cities 
 of the empire, but above all to Athens. A pedeftal now re- 
 mains, as we fuppofed, in its place, at fome diflance from the 
 temple of Thefeus, in the way to the Piraeus, almoft buried in 
 earth. After digging about it, we difcovered the infcription, 
 " To the Saviour and founder the emperor Hadrian Olym- 
 ♦* pius." 
 
 The ftatues of Harmodius and Ariftogiton were of brafs, 
 and very antient. They had been carried away into Perfia by 
 
 N 2 Xerxes, 
 
92 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 Xerxes, and were reftored to the Athenians by Alexander 
 after Darius was conquered. They were near five hundred years 
 pld, when it was decreed that Brutus and CafTuis, the murder- 
 ers of Caefar, fliould Ije placed next them. Arrian, who lived 
 under the emperor Antoninus, has recorded them as remaining 
 by the way, which was then ufed, up to the Acropolis, as nearly 
 oppolite to the Metroum, and not far from an altar of Eudane- 
 mus Itanding on the pavement and known to perfons who had 
 been initiated at Eleufis. 
 
 The Royal portico feems to have ranged with Poecile '. The 
 paintings in the latter exhibited the Athenians and Laced£e- 
 monians drawn up in battle-array, about to engage, at CEnoe 
 near Argos. In the middle of the wall were the Athenians and 
 Thefeus fighting with the Amazons. Next thefe was the tak- 
 ing of Troy, with the kings aflembled in council -, Ajax, and, 
 among the female captives, Caflandra, whom he had violated. 
 Laftly, there was the battle of Marathon. 
 
 By the Hephxfleum, and Euryfaceum or Heroum of Eury- 
 faces, near the Agora, was the Colonus Agorasus or h'// of the 
 Agora ; called alfo Miflhius, from its being a place where 
 fervants were hired. It was behind the long Portico, (probably 
 P(scile and the Royal united) and had given its name to that part, 
 which was otherwife termed Melite. Euryfaces was the fon of 
 Ajax, and had lived in Melite ; as alfo Themiflocles, who 
 ereiled there a temple to Diana Ariftobula after vanquishing the 
 Perfian fleet at Salamis ; and there was likewife the houfe of 
 Phocion, and the Melanippeum or Heroum of Melanippus fon 
 of Thefeus. The extent of Melite is not defined ; but it was 
 contiguous with Coele, for the Cimonian monuments in that 
 region were near the Melitenfian gate. It probably approached 
 or comprized the theatre, as in Melite was a large houfe 
 where the tragedians fludied their parts ; and it comprehended the 
 Eleufinium, for in Melite Hercules was initiated into the LefTer 
 Myfteries, and had a temple. Melite bordered on Colyttus. 
 
 ' K-olns lltiKtXr,i yt^lrslii SxciMuf Zt««* «-« ci 'tefieu xK>iiS[il>oi, Athen, Att, p. 827. 
 
 The 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 93 
 
 The Agora was a large open fpot, fubdivided into ftations 
 for fellers of provifions and a variety of other articles, fome of 
 which were (heltered by flieds or ftandings from the fun. The 
 city-guard, confifting of a thoufand men, once had their tents 
 in the middle, but afterwards was removed to the Areopagus. 
 It was furrounded with temples, porticoes, and ftatues, but the 
 extent of it is not defined. The altars of Apollo and Cybele 
 are placed in it ; as alfo the ftatues of Conon and his fon Ti- 
 motheus. Thefe two were near the Perifchoenifma, a portion 
 of it, by the altar of the twelve gods, confifting of an area of 
 fifty feet, encompaffed with a rope, the tribunal of the archon 
 filled t/ie king, who fate there with the other archons ; a party 
 of the guard preventing the approach of improper perfons. 
 Moreover, the ft:atues of Harmodius and Ariftogiton were in the 
 Agora J and that of Solon, which ftood before Poecile. Ly- 
 curgus and Demofthenes and the two patriots are alfo on record 
 as in the Ceramicus. Xenophon recommends, that at the public 
 feftivals, the Athenian cavalry fhould be marched round the 
 Agora, beginning from the Mercuries ; and pay refpeft to the 
 temples and ftatues of the gods, as they pafTed ; and when the 
 circuit was finiftied, fhould gallop off in fquadrons from the 
 Mercuries as far as the Eleufinium. The procelTion, he imagines, 
 if fo regulated, would prove highly pleafing to the deities as well 
 as to the fpedators. 
 
 The altar of Pity or Philanthropy, in the Agora, was exceed- 
 ingly antient. It was faid, that the Heraclida: had fled to it 
 from Euryftheus, and that a herald, as he was dragging them 
 from it, was flain by the Ephebi or youth of Athens, who con- 
 tinued to wear mourning for the outrage to the time of Atticus 
 Herodes, when the colour of their chlamys or cloke was changed 
 from black to white. Of all the Greeks, the Athenians alone, 
 Paufanias tells us, regarded this deity, as ufeful in the calualties 
 of life and the manifold changes of human affairs. He remarks 
 that the Athenians, who had eftablifhed the duties of philan- 
 thropy, 
 
94 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 thropy, had alfo poflefled more religion than any other people; 
 and he adds, that fuch as had excelled in piety were attended ia 
 proportion by good fortune. The altar, which remained under 
 Julian, has been defcribed as fhaded with trees, among which 
 was an olive known to fuppliants and laurels decked with 
 fillets J as frequented by' the wretched and ever wet with their 
 tears ; as hung with treffes of hair, and with the votive gar- 
 ments of perfons who had been relieved. 
 
 CHAP. XIX. 
 
 Abjli-a6l of Paufanias — Of the temple of the Diofcuri and of 
 Agraulos — Columns of different kinds of marble — Of the 
 Delphinium — Of the temple of Venus in the gardens. 
 
 I N the preceding chapter we have accompanied Paufanias 
 from the gate Dipylon into the region called Agrae, whither 
 he will now condudl us by a different way, on the oppofite fide 
 of the Acropolis, and, as it were, through the prefent town. 
 He begins with the Gymnafium of Ptolemy, and then notes the 
 temple of Thefeus, with the temple of the Diofcuri j and above 
 it, that of Agraulos. The Prytaneum was near; and, going 
 from it into the lower parts of the city, there was a temple of 
 Serapis ; and, not far from this, the place where Thefeus and 
 Pirithous made their fatal compadl ' j near which was a temple 
 of Ilythia. This brings him to the temple of Jupiter Olym- 
 pius dedicated with the ftatue by the emperor Hadrian, who 
 had alfo ereded temples of Juno and of Jupiter Panhellenius, and 
 a Pantheon, in which his afts were infcribed ; and there were 
 edifices richly adorned, and books, and the Gymnafium of Hadri- 
 an. Thefe buildings, it may be obferved, were in New Athens. 
 The peribolus or inclofure of the Olympieum contained alfo 
 a temple of Saturn and Rhea, and a facred portion of the 
 
 ' ' Vide Sophocl. Oedip. Col. v. 1588. 
 
 goddefs 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 95 
 
 goddefs ftiled Olympia. Near the Olympieum was Apollo 
 Pythius, and the Delphinium or temple of Apollo Delphinius ; 
 from which the author pafles to the temple of Venus in the 
 gardens, Cynofarges, the Lyceum, the IHfTus and Eridanus, 
 the region called Agra;, the temple of Diana, and the Stadium, 
 
 The temple of the Diofcuri, which was called alfo the 
 Anaceum, with that of Aglauros, flood on the hill of the Acro- 
 polis«near the front. The Perfians under Xerxes endeavoured to 
 fet fire to the palifades, which then fecured the entrance 
 of the fortrefs ; difcharging arrows with burning flax 
 from Areopagus ; but got pofleffion by climbing a precipice, 
 before deemed inacceffible, beyond the gates, oppofite to the 
 temple of Aglauros. Pififtratus fummoned the people to attend 
 at the Anaceum, came forward from the Acropolis, and 
 addrefled them in a low voice ,- while his guards removed 
 their arms, unperceived, and fecured them in the temple of 
 Aglauros. It was in this temple the military oath was admi- 
 niftered to the young Athenians, when they attained to the age 
 of twenty years and were enrolled among the citizens. 
 
 Among the ill-matched columns in the churches are feveral of 
 the marble imported by Hadrian, for his Pantheon and Gym- 
 nafium. In the former were one hundred and twenty from 
 Phrygia, and in the latter one hundred from Libya. The 
 produce of the Attic quarries is white ; that of the Phrygian ' 
 white variegated with different colours. 
 
 ^-Egeus lived by the Delphinium; and in it was a fpot 
 fenced about, where, it was faid, the cup fell with the poifon, 
 which, at the inftigation of Medea, he tendered to Thefeus, 
 before he knew him to be his fon. A Mercury to the eaft of 
 the temple was called T^he Mercury at the gate of Mgeus. 
 
 ' See Ruins of Athens, p. 39. 
 
 The 
 
96 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 The temple of Venus /« the gardens was without the walls, 
 though not remote from the town, as may be inferred from the 
 ftory of the Canephori. A church in the fkirt of Athens, with 
 an extenfive court before it, perhaps now occupies the fite. It 
 is called Panagia SpiliotilTa, St Mary of the cavern, poifibly from 
 the fubterraneous palTage, which may ftill exift. On the 
 outiide in the wall, is fixed an infcription relating to the temple 
 of Venus, and recording the donations of a pious female, *who 
 gloried in the titles of candle-lighter and interpreter of dreams 
 to the goddefs. It is imperfecft at the beginning, but comme- 
 morates her offering the pediment over the chancel, and a Venus, 
 perhaps a puppet, which flie had made and drelTed. 
 
 CHAP. XX. 
 
 ylbJlraB of Paufviias — 'The Pryfaneum — Of the Jlreet called 
 The Tripods and a momonent re?naining — hifcriptmis — The 
 Dionyjium — Other temples — Of Pandion and of the goddefs 
 Pome, &c. in the Acropolis — The fountain Empedo — CeJ/'a- 
 
 tion of the ?nagijlracies at Athens Of the Panathencean 
 
 procefjion. 
 
 PAUSANIAS returns again into the city, and begins from 
 the Prytaneum, keeping the Acropolis on his right hand nearer 
 than before ; a ftreet, called The Tripods, leading from the 
 Prytaneum toward the theatre of Bacchus, by which was the 
 mofl antient temple of that god. The inclofure contained two 
 temples, with two images. He then obferves, that near the 
 temple of Bacchus and the theatre, was the ftrudlure formed 
 in imitation of the tent of Xerxes, or the odeum ; and after 
 mention of the Mithridatic war, and of the cruelty of Sylla in 
 the Ceramicus, treats of the ftatues in the theatre, and notes on 
 the fouth wall of the Acropolis, which was toward it, a golden 
 iEgis and head of Medufa offered by king Antiochus ; and a 
 
 cavern 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 97 
 
 cavern above the theatre, in the rock. He then goes on from 
 the theatre to the front of the Acropolis, marking on the way 
 the tomb of Talos, a nephew and fcholar of Daedalus, who, re- 
 garding him as a rival, puihed him down a precipice ; the 
 temple and fountain of ^Efculapius ; and after it, the temple of 
 Themis, before which was a barrow of Hippolytus, and a 
 temple of Venus Pandemus. There was alfo the temple of 
 Tellus Curotrophus and Ceres Chloe '. Paufanias then enters 
 the Acropolis, and, after treating of the Propylea, mentions 
 that he faw other articles there, and a temple of Diana Brauro- 
 nia } defcribes the Parthenon, beyond which was a brazen 
 Apollo J and, feeing a ftatue of Olympiodorus, digreffes con- 
 cerning the Mufeum, which hill was within the old city-wall ; 
 and returns to the Ere<3:heum and Pandrofeum. Going down 
 from the Acropolis, not into the city beneath, but below the 
 Propylea, he takes notice of a fountain near the cave of Apollo 
 and Pan, and of the Areopagus, by which was a temple of the 
 Furies ; enumerates the tribunals, which were feveral be- 
 iides Delphinium, Heliaea, and the Palladium ; obferves of the 
 veflel ufed in the Panathensean proceflion, which was fhown by 
 the Areopagus, that it was no longer a curiofity, but was much 
 inferior to one at Delos j defcribes the Academy, a fuburb near 
 Dipylon ; and proceeds to the Demi or towns more remote 
 from the city. 
 
 The Prytaneum was a large edifice, in which the magi- 
 ftrates called Prytanes met to deliberate, and a daily allowance 
 was provided for thofe perfons who were entitled to their diet 
 from the public. There was a flatue of the goddefs Peace, and 
 of Vefta, with the perpetual fire. The building was thrown 
 down by an earthquake in the fixth year of the Peloponnefian 
 war. At a church called Greaf Sf Mary, in the town, is an 
 antient arch, fome remains of excellent mafonry, and three 
 columns fupporting an architrave ; which ruin, from its fitua- 
 tion, may with great reafon, be fuppofed to have been the Pry- 
 * Vide Sophecl, Oedip. Em k<>a«i», v. 164,1. 
 
 O taneum. 
 
98 TRAVELS in GREECE. ' 
 
 taneum. A large area, in which it ftands, was inclored with a 
 wall, having the fourth lide or front decorated with columns. 
 Of this a coniiderable portion is entire, but much encumbered, 
 and concealed by houfes, magazines, and fhops. It is publifhed 
 in 'The Ruins of Athejis. The effedt, in its prefent condition, is 
 fo ftriking, that it was long miftaken for the temple of Jupiter 
 Olympius J but its magnificence, as has been juftly remarked, 
 is of a fober flyle, fliowing the ceconomy of a republic rather 
 than the profufion of an Afiatic king or Roman emperor. 
 
 The confecrated ftruftures, which embelliflied the ftreet called 
 The Tripods, were probably noted for the offerings placed on 
 them even more than for their own beauty. A fabric defigned 
 only to difplay a tripod did not admit of great dimenfions. The 
 choragic monument of Lyficrates, which is yet extant, near the 
 eaftern end of the hill of the Acropolis, is but a fmall edifice, 
 though exquifitely elegant. It may be feen, as in its original 
 ftate, in The Ruins of Athens. The number of thefe fabrics 
 was confiderable, but that is the only one undemolifhed. During 
 our refidence at the French convent, it ferved as a clofet for a 
 Greek, the fervant of the Capuchin, to fleep in. The Tripods 
 were of brafs and very valuable for their workmanfhip. There 
 was the Satyr, which Praxiteles efteemed his mafter-piece ,- and on 
 a cell or dome near it was a Satyr, a boy, giving a cup to Bac- 
 chus. It may appear no improbable conjecture that the monument 
 of Lyficrates was intended to fupport the fecond Tripod, for aa 
 analogy may be difcovered between its fubjeft and the fculpture 
 on the freeze ' ; as at the monument of Thrafyllus, above the 
 theatre of Bacchus, between the flory on the Tripod and a 
 ftatue of Niobe. 
 
 The deftrudion of the flreet called the Tripods may juftly be 
 regretted, as the monuments it contained were eredled by emi- 
 nent perfons, and at an aera when arts and the republic flou- 
 
 • See Ruins of Athens, PI. X, XI, XXVI. Philoftratus has defcribed a 
 pidure, in which the transformation of the Pirates was reprefented, p. 761. 
 
 riHied. 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 99 
 
 riflied. If ftill extant, even their antiquity would deferve 
 relpedl. The monument of Lyficrates, which remains, was 
 conftrudted three hundred and thirty years before Chrift. Thra- 
 fyllus was vidorious only ten years after. I copied the infcrip- 
 tion of one erected before the introdudlion of the Ionic alpha- 
 bet, which confifted of twenty four letters, from a marble in 
 the houfe of an Albanian woman near the Convent. In this the 
 common formulary is not completed, for the name of the archon, 
 under whom the Tripod was obtained, is omitted, though the 
 ftone is in good prefervation and room was not wanting. This 
 circumftance enables us to afcertain the date to the firfl year of 
 the xCivth Olympiad', which the Athenians ftyled the year of 
 anarchy, becaufe the archon, not being duly eledled, was dif- 
 owned by them. Euclid fucceeded in the following year, and 
 the Attic alphabet, which had only fixteen letters, prevailed 
 until after his archonfhip. The infcription of another was 
 found on a ftone at the mouth of an oven. It is imperfeft, but 
 very old, the letters in rows and ranging at equal diftances. On 
 a Doric architrave over the gate of the Bazar or market, near 
 the ruin of the Prytaneum, is the infcription of one eredted a 
 year or two before that of Thrafyllus ; and at the Catholicon or 
 Cathedral is the infcription of one more early than that of 
 Lyficrates by ten years. Another infcription, which we did not 
 fee, is publifhed by Spon, and refers to the firft year of the 
 cxiiith Olympiad*. Themiftocles and Ariftides dedicated 
 Tripods with fimilar infcriptions, cited, but imperfedly, by 
 Plutarch. Thefe were in Attic charaders. The choragic 
 monument of Ariftides, with the infcription and Tripods, 
 remained, when Plutarch wrote j as did alfo that of the famous 
 Nicias. Another belonged to Lyfias, who, in an oration ftill 
 extant, relates, that when Glaucippus was archon ', he pro- 
 vided a chorus of men for the Dionyfia, and gained the viftoryj 
 and that he expended on the chorus and the confecration of his 
 
 • Before Chrift, 402. » Before Chrift, 426. 3 Before Chrift, 408. 
 
 O 2 Tripod 
 
100 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 Tripod the fum of five thoufand drachms, which has been 
 computed at 2oS/. 6 s. Zd. fterling '. 
 
 The Dionyfium, or antient temple of Bacchus, is often 
 ilyled the temple in Limnis, that portion of the city being fo 
 named. It was kept (hut, like the church now on or near its 
 fite, except at the Dionyfia or feftival of the deity, which was 
 celebrated yearly in the month Anthefterion or February. The 
 facred rites were then performed by women, and the ^een, 
 the wife of the archon called the King, facrificed for the city. 
 
 It has been already remarked, that Paufanias appears to have 
 pafTed from the theatre of Bacchus to the front of the Acropolis 
 by a way leading behind the Odeum and the portico adjoining to 
 it. The temple of Venus, ftanding by the Agora, was probably 
 lower down than the other temples. That of Ceres was an 
 elegant edifice, as may be colledled from a piece of architrave, 
 with an infcription, which once ranged in the front, and 
 recorded the name of the perfon by whom it was dedicated ; 
 now fixed in the caftle-wall, within the gate at which the 
 Turkifh guard is ilationed. 
 
 Among the other articles, which Paufanias faw in the Acro- 
 polis, was, it is probable, the temple or edifice facred to 
 Pandion father of Ere<5theus, in which the infcribed marble, 
 mentioned as having rolled down from the Acropolis, was once 
 placed. One ftatue of him was among thofe of the Eponymi 
 or heroes, from whom the tribes had been named ; and another, 
 worthy notice, was in the acropolis ; probably in this building, 
 which may be fuppofed to have flood near the eaftern extremity 
 of the rock. A temple likewife was then extant, infcribed, 
 *' The People. To the goddefs Rome and to Auguftus Caefar. 
 *• Pammenes fon of Xeno of Marathon, the prieft of the 
 " goddefs Rome and of Auguftus the Saviour, in the Acropolis, 
 
 I Ruins of Athens, p. 30. 
 
 ** being 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. loi 
 
 «« being Strategus or General of the city *. A daughter of 
 *' Afclepiades of Alae being prieftefs of Minerva Polias, the 
 ** moft mighty. In the archonfliip of Areus fon of Morio 
 ** a Pseanian." The year in which this perfon was archon is 
 not afcertained, but it coincides with the building of the tem- 
 ple, which was pofterior to the year of Rome feven hundred 
 and forty one. The infcription was copied, before Mahomet 
 the fecond got poflefTion of Athens, from the veftibule of a. 
 temple in the Acropolis, then a church dedicated to the Pana- 
 gia or Virgin Mary. 
 
 Pausanias, after mentioning Enneacrunus as the only 
 fountain at Athens, has yet recorded two more; one in the 
 temple of ^fculapius, the other below the Propylea. Both 
 thefe, it is likely, were unferviceable, except for certain abluti- 
 ons and purifications. The water of the latter is now conveyed 
 to the principal mofque in the town for fuch ufes *. It may be 
 conjedlured that the fountain flood antiently higher up toward 
 the cave of Pan -, and that the current, fince intercepted, was 
 continued into the temple of ^Efculapius. There it difappearedj 
 but emerged again, after running twenty ftadia, or two miles 
 and a half, underground toward Phalerum. It was firft named 
 Empedo and then Clepfydra. 
 
 We have before remarked, that a writer who lived under 
 the two emperors named Theodofius, has mentioned the Areo- 
 pagus as no longer a court of judicature. The firfl inftance of 
 a trial for murder there was faid to have been furnifhed by 
 a crime, which Halirrhotius, a fon of Neptune, committed 
 in the temple of iEfculapius, and which provoked Mars to kill 
 him. Moft of the other magiftracies were likewife extindt j and 
 
 1 Some for ■jttxtlug read cttxHxu See the infcription in Falricii Roma, Gruter 
 p. cv, 9, and in Corjini Fa/i. Att. t. i. p, 42. This learned Chronologer places 
 Areus in the year u. C, 727 or in the following, t. 4, p. 140, but fee Chi/hull 
 Antiq. Aftat. p. 205, />. 207. 
 
 * V. Ruins of AthenSj p. 15. 
 
 in 
 
102 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 In particular, the tribunal called Delphlnian, the Heliaean, 
 which was near the Agora, the council of Five Hmtdred, and the 
 Eleveji ; with the Polemarch, the Thefmothets and the annual 
 Archon. 
 
 The proceflion at the Greater Panathenjea attended a peplus 
 or garment, defigned as an offering to Minerva Polias in the 
 Acropolis. This was woven by feledl virgins in various colours 
 reprefenting Minerva and Jupiter engaged with the Titans, and 
 the exploits of Athenian Heroes. It was extended as a fail to 
 the veffel, which was moved by machinery. The proceflion 
 formed in the Ceramicus without the city, and entering at 
 Dipylon, paffed between the porticoes, and through the Agora j 
 croffed the Iliffus, and going round the Eleufinium, returned by 
 the Pelafgicon and the temple of Apollo Pythius to the ftation 
 of the veflel, near the Areopagus ; from whence, it may be 
 inferred, the offering was carried by men up to the temple, the 
 afcent to the Propylea being long and fteep. Harmodius and 
 Ariftogiton concealed each a poignard in a myrtle-bough, and 
 waited to affaflinate the tyrants, who regulated this folemnity, in 
 the Ceramicus without the city j but, fearing they were be- 
 trayed, rufhed in at Dipylon, and flew Plipparchus by the 
 Leocorium or monument of the daughters of Leo, one of the 
 Eponymi, which was in the middle of the inner Ceramicus. 
 Demetrius a defcendant of the Phalerean, that his mifl:refs 
 Arifl:agora, a courtezan of Corinth, might enjoy the fpedacle, 
 ereded for her a fliage againft: the Mercuries. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. lo: 
 
 CHAP. XXI. 
 
 Omljfions in Paufanias-'-'The tower of the Winds — Dance of 
 the Dervijhes — A Doric portal — Suppofed the entrance of an 
 Agora — Hhe Athenians given to flattery — Paufajiias illif- 
 trated. 
 
 WE have now completed the propofed furvey of antient 
 Athens j but two ftrudtures yet remain, either omitted or men- 
 tioned inexplicitly by Paufanias. One is the tower of the winds 
 or of Andronicus Cyrrheftes, which was in or near the ftreet 
 called 'The Tripods, and bearing fome refemblance to the choragic 
 monuments was perhaps overlooked by the author. The other 
 is a Doric portal, fituated at the foot of the hill of the Acro- 
 polis, and once, it is likely, belonging to that Agora, from 
 which the Gymnafium of Ptolemy was but a little diftant. 
 Befides thefe the Pnyx is unnoticed. 
 
 The tower of Andronicus Cyrrheftes is a fmall edifice of 
 marble, an o(flogon, decorated with fculpture reprefenting the 
 Winds, eight in number ; and has fupported a Triton, which 
 turned as a weathercock, and pointed with a wand to the wind 
 then blowing. On the fides were fun-dials to fhow the hour of 
 the day. It is mentioned by Varro and Vitruvius, and accu- 
 rately publifhed in The Ruins of Athens. A young Turk ex- 
 plained to me two of the emblems -, that of the figure of 
 Caecias, as fignifying that he made the olives fall; of Sciron, 
 that he dried up the rivers. 
 
 The tower of the winds is now a Teckeh or place of worfhip 
 belonging to a college of Dervifhes. I was prefent, with my 
 companions, at a religious function, which concluded with 
 their wonderful dance. The company was feated on goat-fkins 
 on the floor crofs-legged ; forming a large circle. The chief 
 
 Dervifli, 
 
104 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 Dervifh, a comely man, with a gray beard and of a fine prefence, 
 began the prayers, in which the reft bore a part, all proftrating 
 themfelves, as ufual, and feveral times touching the ground with 
 their foreheads. Of a fudden, they leaped up, threw off their 
 outer garments, and joining hands, moved round flowly, to 
 mufic, flaouting Alia, the name of God. The inftruments 
 founding quicker, they kept time, calling out Alia. La ilia ill 
 Alia. God. Inhere is no other God, but God. Other fentences 
 were added to thefe as their motion increafed j and the chief 
 Dervifli, burfting from the ring into the middle, as m a hi of 
 enthufiafm, and letting down his hair behind, began turning 
 about, his body poifed on one of his great toes as on a pivot, 
 without changing place. He was followed by another, who 
 fpun a different way, and then by more, four or five in number. 
 The rapidity with which they whifked round was gradually 
 augmented, and became amazing j their long hair not touching 
 their fhoulders but flying off; and the circle ftill furrounding 
 them, Ihouting, and throwing their heads backwards and for- 
 wards ; the dome re-echoing the wild and loud mufic and the 
 noife, as it were of frantic Bacchanals. At length, fome quit- 
 ting the ring and fainting, at which time it is believed they 
 are favoured with extatic vifions, the fpedlacle ended. We 
 were foon after introduced into a room furnifhed with (kins for 
 fofas, and entertained with pipes and coffee by the chief 
 Dervifli, whom we found, with feveral of his performers, as 
 cool and placid as if he had been only a looker-on. 
 
 The Doric portal may be feen in The Ruins of Athens, with 
 its infcrlptions. One of thefe informs us, that the people 
 eredled the fabric \yith the donations made to Minerva Archege- 
 tis or the ConduSfrefs by the god Julius Caefar and his fon 
 the god Auguftus, when Nicias was archon. Over the middle 
 of the pediment was a ftatue of Lucius C.Efar, ftiled the fon of 
 the god Auguftus, it is fuppofed, on horfe-back. At each 
 angle was alfo a ftatue ; probably of Auguftus and of Julius 
 Caefar, or M. Agrippa the natural father of Lucius. The 
 
 goddefs 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 105 
 
 goddefs Julia, daughter of Auguflus, his mother, had likewife 
 a ftatue ; the pedeflal remaining by one of the columns. 
 Minerva was in great repute as a tutelary deity. Auguflus 
 Caefar afcribed to her guidance his vidlory at Adium, and 
 honoured her with a temple, in which he dedicated his Egyptian 
 fpoils '. She received at Athens a portion of plunder both from 
 him and from Julius as an acknowlegement of her fervices. The 
 Strategus or general of the city-forces, Euclees of Marathon, 
 ad:ed as overfeer of the building for his father Herodes, The 
 great Sophift Tiberius Claudius Atticus Herodes was alfo of 
 Marathon ; and in the pavement of the portico of a houfe, 
 which we inhabited for fome months, between the Portal and 
 the remnant of the Gymnafium of Ptolemy, was a pedeflal with 
 an infcription almofl effaced, in which he is ftyled Fonttff of the 
 Augujlan deities. 
 
 From the plan and proportions of the ruin it has been 
 inferred, that the fabric, to which the Portal belonged, was 
 not a temple. An edidl of the emperor Hadrian infcribed on 
 the jamb of a door-cafe, regulating the fale of oil and the duties 
 to be levied on it, has been urged in favour of the opinion, that 
 the Portal was the entrance of the inclofure of the Agora or 
 market-place mentioned by Strabo, who lived to about the 
 twelfth year of Tiberius Caefar, as in a diflridl of the city 
 called Eretria. The Athenians, reduced in number, are fup- 
 pofed to have removed it from the Ceramicus, where the blood 
 of the citizens had flreamed, to a fpot more central and conve- 
 venient ; and to have employed the donations to their goddefs on 
 a public work of general utility. 
 
 The Athenians were a people ever ready to offer up the 
 incenfe of flattery. A Sophifl, a favourite of the emperor 
 Trajan, expoflulates in one of his orations with the Rhodians 
 
 I Chijhull Ant'iq. Afiat. p. 201, p. 193. Lucius was adopted by Auguflus 
 eighteen years before the Chriflian iEra, and died in the fecond year after it. 
 
 P on 
 
io6 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 on the Injuftlce arfd abfurdity of their condudt. They freely 
 decreed the honorary ftatue. The praetor feledled one out of 
 the great number, which adorned their city. The name was 
 erafed, and it was infcribed to a new owner. The fame method, 
 he adds, was pradtifed in other places and at Athens, which 
 city deferved cenfure in many articles, and efpecially for its prof- 
 titution of public honours. He inftances, the conferring the 
 title Olympius on a noify orator, a Phoenician, a native of an 
 ignoble village ; the placing the ftatue of a wretched poet, who 
 had rehearfed at Rhodes, next to Menander ; and a ridiculous 
 infcription in compliment of Nicanor, the purchafer of the 
 ifland Salamis. It was his opinion, that the Athenians had dif- 
 graced their city, and their predeceffors ; and, that the abjedl 
 ftate of this people rendered Greece, of which it had been the 
 head, an objedl of compaffion. 
 
 Pausanias may be illuftrated from this inventive of the 
 Sophift. On entering Athens he obferves near the temple of 
 Ceres an equeftrian ftatue, which reprefented Neptune throwing 
 a fpear at the giant Polybotes ; but the infcription gave it then 
 to another, and not to Neptune. The images of Miltiades and 
 Themiftocles in the Prytaneum were changed in the fame 
 manner into a Roman and a Thracian. The author has pur- 
 pofely concealed their names. The coloffal ftatues of Attalus 
 and Eumenes had been infcribed to Antony, and fubverted by a 
 hurricane. Of thefe he is filcnt. The ftatue of Menander 
 graced the Theatre of Bacchus ; and he informs us in general 
 that the images there were moftly of poets of inferior note. 
 The prefents beftowed by Julius Cafar and Auguftus did not 
 reconcile the Athenians to their family. A few Triremes, the 
 remains of their navy, had been numbered in the fleet of Pom- 
 pey. They had honoured Brutus and Caffius, joined Antony, 
 and revolted from Auguftus. Paufanias records the temples of 
 Julius and Auguftus in the Agora of Sparta, but is referved at 
 Athens. In the Parthenon he knew the emperor Hadrian only. 
 He could not for certain fay, whether the equeftrian ftatues 
 
 before 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 107 
 
 before the Acropolis were the fons of Xenophon, or others 
 placed there for ornament. He affirms^ that evil having greatly 
 increafed and overfpreading all countries and cities, no perfon, 
 except nominally and from flattery to his fuperior rank, was 
 any longer converted from a man into a God. He did not 
 relifli the human deities. He found at Athens abundant evi- 
 dence of its antient fplendor, and faw the city re-flouri{hing 
 under the aufpices of the emperor Hadrian. He would not 
 revive the memory of its depreflion by enlarging on the monu- 
 ments of its inconfiftent adulation. He paffes by the temple of 
 Rome and Auguflus in the Acropolis ; will not acknowlege the 
 emperor and Agrippa at the entrance -, nor defcribe a fabric 
 founded on the munificence of the firft Caefars, and adorned 
 with all the divinities of the Julian family. 
 
 CHAP. XXII. 
 
 Athem the feat of philofophy — 'the way to the Academy— Of the 
 Academy — Of the Colonus Hippius — Gardens of Philofophers 
 — The graves and fepulchres levelled — Site of the Academy, 
 Colonus Hippius — the river CephiJJiis, 
 
 ATHENS was the parent of Philofophy as well as of Elo- 
 quence. It had three celebrated Gymnafia without the city, 
 the Academy, the Lyceum, and Cynofarges j from which as 
 many fedts dated their origin, the Platonic, the Peripatetic, and 
 the Cynic ', followers of Plato, of Ariflotle, and Antifthenes. 
 The Stoic philofophy was inflituted by Zeno in the Stoa or 
 Portico named Pcecile, and the garden of Epicurus was in the 
 city. 
 
 The Academy was in the fuburb without DIpylon, and 
 diftant from the gate only fix ftadia or three quarters of a mile. 
 
 P2 On 
 
io8 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 On the way to it was a fmall temple of Diana, to which the 
 image of Bacchus Eleutherus was annually borne in proceffion ; 
 then the tomb of Thrafybulus ; and a little out of the road, of 
 Pericles, of Chabrias, Phormion, and the citizens who had 
 died in battle ferving their country by fea or land. The public 
 folemnized their obfequies, and they were honoured with fune- 
 ral orations and games. The flelce or pillars (landing on the 
 graves declared the name of each and to what Demos or Borough 
 he belonged. Thefe perifhed honourably at diiferent periods 
 and in various adlions. Some alfo of the Athenian allies were 
 interred there, and Clifthenes, Conon, Timotheus, the philo- 
 fophers Zeno and Chryfippus, Nicias an eminent painter, Har- 
 niodius and Ariftogiton, the orator Ephialtes, and Lycurgus fon 
 of Lycophron, with many more of high renown. Not far from 
 the Academy was the monument of Plato, and in this region 
 was fhown the tower of Timon, the man-hater. A miracu- 
 lous tomb not far from Dipylon, on the left hand, is not men- 
 tioned by Paufanias. It was of earth, not large, and had on it 
 .a fhort pillar, which was always crowned with garlands. There 
 Toxaris, a Scythian and phyfician, was buried. He was be- 
 lieved to continue to cure difeafes, and was revered as a hero. 
 
 The Academy was once the poffeflion of a private perfon 
 named Academus, who gave it to the people. Hipparchus, fon 
 of Pififtratus, furrounded it with a wall. Cimon drained the 
 low grounds near it. The fpot, parched and fqualid, was im- 
 proved and rendered very pleafant. The walks were fliaded 
 with tall plane-trees, and cooled by running water. Before the 
 entrance was an altar of Love ; and, befides others, one of 
 Prometheus, from which the race called Lampadophoria began. 
 The winner was he who firft reached the city with his lamp 
 unextinguiflied. Plato commenced teaching at the Academy, 
 then reputed unwholfome. Afterwards he preferred a fmall 
 garden by the Colonus Hippius, his own property. The Lace- 
 daemonians fpared the Academy, when they ravaged Attica ; but 
 Sylla, wanting timber for machines, cut down the grove there 
 
 and 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 109 
 
 and at the Lyceum. The fucceffors of Plato enjoyed a confi- 
 derable revenue, which, in the fubfequent ages, was greatly 
 augmented by legacies from perfons defirous of contributing to 
 the leifure and tranquillity of the philofophic life. 
 
 Colon us Hippius the 'Equejirian hill was beyond the Aca. 
 demy and diftant ten ftadia, a mile and a quarter, from the city. 
 There was an altar of Equejlrian Neptune and Minerva, with 
 an heroum or monument of Pirithous and Thefeus, of CEdipus, 
 and. of Adraftus. It was affirmed, that the unhappy Theban, 
 an exile and fuppliant, had refted there in the facred portion of 
 the Furies ; but Paufanias preferred the authority of Homer. 
 The grove and temple of Neptune had been burned by Anti- 
 gonus. Sophocles was born and lived at the Colonus, and 
 there were the copper mines. 
 
 The little garden of Epicurus In the city was on the fide 
 toward Dipylon and by the road to the Academy. The teacher 
 of cafe, it is recorded, was the firft who introduced that fpecies 
 of gratification, the enjoyment of the country in town. The 
 garden of the philofopher Melanthius was oppofite to the ftatue 
 of Minerva Pieonia, w^hich is mentioned as the firfl in the Mercu- 
 ries. It was in the way to the Academy ; for Lycurgus fon of 
 Lycophron, with fome of his defcendants, was buried in it at 
 the public expenfe. On the graves were placed flat flabs with 
 infcriptions. The Lacydeum or garden of Lacydes was in the 
 Academy. 
 
 By the deftrudlion of Dipylon and the City- wall we are 
 deprived of the antlent boundaries of Athens ; and the town, 
 befides being reduced in its extent, furnifhes a variety of avenues 
 to the plain. Moreover, the manfions of the illuftrious dead, 
 like the bodies which they covered, are confumed, and have 
 difappeared. Time, violence, and the plough have levelled all, 
 without diftindlion ; equally inattentive to the meritorious ftatef- 
 man, the patriot, the orator, and philofopher, the foldier, the 
 
 artift. 
 
no TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 artifl:, and phyfician. Atticus is defcribed by Cicero as pleafed 
 with recolledling where the renowned Athenians had lived, or 
 been accuftomed to lit or difpute; and as fludioufly contem- 
 plating even their fepulchres. The traveller will regret, that 
 defolation interferes, and by the uncertainty it has produced, 
 deprives him of the like fatisfadlion ; but, in the ftyle of the 
 antients, to omit the refearch would merit the anger of the 
 -Mufes. 
 
 It has been obferved, that, without Dipylon, the road 
 branched off toward the Pirzeus and Eleulis as well as the 
 Academy. The road to the haven and to Eleulis divides now 
 not far from the temple of Thefeus, and is nearly in the fame 
 diredtion as formerly. On the right hand of the Eleufinian 
 road is a way, which leads to the fite of the Academy. Achmet 
 Aga had lately eredled a houfe on or near it, with a large garden, 
 and a plentiful fountain by the road-fide, fupplied, it is likely, 
 by the channels which conduced to the coolnefs and verdure of 
 the old fuburb. Farther on is a rocky knoll, which was the 
 Colonus Hippius. Some maflive fragments of brick-wall occur 
 there, with a folitary church or two. 
 
 In the plain beyond the Equejirian hill is the Cephiflus ', a 
 muddy rivulet, turning fome over-fhot mills in its courfe 
 through a rich and fertile tradl: covered with gardens, olive-trees, 
 and vineyards. The llream antiently crofled the Long-walls in 
 its way to the Phaleric fhore, which alfo received the IlilTus. 
 Thefe waters, it is likely, formed the marfh. The CephilTus 
 was very inconfiderable in the fummer. It is now commonly 
 abforbed, before it reaches the coaft ; except after melting fnow 
 or heavy rain rulhing down from the mountains. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. in 
 
 CHAP. XXIII. 
 
 lihe Lyceum — Cynofarges — Mention of them iyi PlatO'—The Jite. 
 
 WE proceed now to the Gymnalla on the other fide of 
 Athens, the Lyceum and Cynofarges. 
 
 The Lyceum was facred to Apollo Lycius, a proper patron, 
 as an antient author has remarked, the god of health beftowing 
 the ability to excel in gymnic exercifes. The image reprefented 
 him as refting after fatigue, with a bow in his left hand, his 
 right arm bending over his head. The Gymnafium was eredled 
 by Lycurgus fon of Lycophron. The militia of Athens pa- 
 raded there, and were inftrudled in the management of their 
 horfes, (hields and fpears, in forming the phalanx and in all 
 the eftabliflied modes of attack and defence. Behind the Lyceum 
 was a monument of Nifus. The Lyceum was long noted for a 
 plane-tree of uncommon fize, which is defcribed by Pliny, and 
 was near a fountain by the road-fide. 
 
 Cynosarges was but a little without the city-gate. There 
 was a temple of Hercules. They related, that when Diomus 
 was facrificing to the Hero, a white bitch had feized part of the 
 vidtim, and carried it to this fpot, where the altar was erected 
 in obedience to an oracle, which had foretold that incident. 
 On a fummit near was the tomb of Ifocrates. Philip who re- 
 duced the city to require aid from the Romans, encamped 
 by Cynofarges, and fet fire both to that place and the Lyceum. 
 
 These Gymnafia were near the IlifTus, which river flowed 
 from the region beyond Agrae, the Lyceum, and the fountain 
 celebrated by Plato ' ; the bed making a curve near the jundlioa 
 with the Eridanus. Phsedrus has been defcribed as going from, 
 a houfe by the temple of Jupiter Olympius toward the Lyceum, 
 
 » Strabo, p. 400. Hence Statius, Amfra^u riparum incurvm Ilijfus, Theb. 
 
 asf 
 
 1. IV. V, 52. 
 
112 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 as turning out of tlie way with Socrates, and fitting down by 
 Enneacrunus and the Ilifllis, above thecrofling over to the temple 
 of Diana Agrxa. In the dialogue entitled Lyfis, Socrates pafs- 
 ing from the Academy to the Lyceum by the way without the 
 wall, and coming to the gate, where was the fountain of Panops, 
 difcovers over againft the wall an inclofure with an open gate, 
 which was a pala'ftra or place for exercifes lately built. This 
 probably belonged to Cynofarges. Li another dialogue, going 
 out of the city to Cynolargcs, and approaching the Iliflus, he 
 fees Clinias running toward Calirhoe, turns out of the way to 
 meet him, and accompanies him, the way by the wall, to a 
 houfe near the Itonian gate '. 
 
 The Lyceum was beyond the Iliffus, and the croffing over 
 is below that which led to the temple of Diana Agraea. The 
 lite is now marked by a well and a church, and many large 
 ftones fcattered about. Cynofarges was not far from the Lyceum^ 
 and perhaps on the fame fide of the Iliffus as the city, where is 
 now a garden near this bed, and by the road. The artificial 
 currents of water having ceafed, the environs of Athens are 
 become, except near Enneacrunus, more bare and naked than 
 they were even after the devaftations of Philip and Sylla. 
 
 ' The Itonian gate was by the pillar of the Amazon. In an account of the 
 battle of Thefeus with the Amazons it is related, that the left wing of their army 
 was toward the Amazoneum ; and the right toward Pnyx («,©; .^a, TitvKH xiilai td, 
 X;u»-a* >;«;«»; ) that on this fide, the Athenians, who engaged from the Mufeum 
 were repulfed, and that the tombs of the flain were by the broad-way leading to 
 Dipylon, probably from the Agora; but that thofe who attacked from the 
 •Palladium, Ardettus, and the Lyceum drove the enemy to their camp ; and that 
 the pillar by the temple of Tellus Olympia was placed over the Amazon, who 
 lived with Thefeus, and is generally called Antiope. Paufanias informs us, that 
 the goddefs furnamed Olympia had a facred portion within the wall of the Olympie- 
 um; that the monument of Antiope was by the entrance of the city from Phalerum ; 
 and that the Athenians had alfo a tomb of Molpadia, another Amazon, by whom 
 flie was flain. 
 
 The monument by the City-gate coming from the Piraeus, of which Paufanias 
 fays, that he did not know to whom it belonged, was probably the heroum of 
 Chalcodon, for that is mentioned as near the Piraean gate, ^geus, father of 
 Thefeus, efpoufed his daughter. Meurjius Jtt. Leil. f. 1773. De regibus Jib. 
 p. iic8. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 113 
 
 CHAP. XXIV. 
 
 Of the Univerfity ofAthe?is — The ProfeJJbrs — Degrees — Drejes 
 — Manner of entrance — CharaSier and extindiion of the Fhilo^ 
 fophers — Ruin of the Univerfity. 
 
 ATHENS maintained under the Romans its reputation for 
 philofophy and eloquence, and continued, though fubdued, the 
 metropolis of learning, the fchool of art, the centre of tafte and 
 genius. The Gymnalia and the gardens of the Philofophers 
 were decorated with the capital works of eminent mafters, and 
 ftill frequented. The fierce warrior was captivated by Greece 
 and Science, and Athens humanized and poliflied the conquerors 
 of the world. But Sylla greatly injured the city, by tranfport- 
 ing to Rome the public Library, which had been founded by 
 Pififtratus, carefully augmented by the people, removed by 
 Xerxes into Perfia, and reftored long after by Seleucus Nicanor. 
 The fpirit of learning drooped on the lofs j and the Roman 
 youth, under Tiberius, were fent to ftudy at Marfeilles, inftead 
 of Athens. Even there the barbarous Gauls joined in the pur- 
 fuit of Eloquence and Philofophy. The Sophift, as well as the 
 Phyfician, was hired to fettle among them ; and the nation was 
 civihzed by the Greek city. 
 
 The emperor Hadrian embellifhed Athens with a noble 
 library and a new Gymnafium, and reftored fcience to its 
 antient feat. Lollianus, an Ephefian, was firft raifed to the 
 high dignity of the fophiftical throne, which was afterwards 
 filled by Atticus Herodes, and by other eminent and illuftrious 
 perfons. The number of profefTors was increafed by Antoninus 
 the philofopher, who had ftudied under Herodes. His efta- 
 blifhment confifted of thirteen j two Platonifts, as many Peri- 
 patetics, Stoics, and Epicureans, with two Rhetoricians and 
 
 Q^ Civilians ; 
 
114 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 Civilians ; and a Prefident ftyled PrcefeSi of the Youth. The 
 ftudent proceeded from the philofopher to the rhetorician, and 
 then to the civilian, h yearly falary of fix hundred Aiirei or 
 pieces of gold ' was annexed to each of the philofophical 
 chairs J and one of a talent to thofe of the civilians. The 
 profeflbrs, unlefs appointed by the emperors, were eledled after 
 folemn examination by the principal magiftrates. 
 
 Education now fiouriflied in all its branches at Athens. 
 The Roman world reforted to its fchools, and reputation and 
 riches awaited the able preceptor. The tender mind was duly 
 prepared for the manly ftudies of philofophy and eloquence. 
 Age and proficiency were followed by promotion. The youth 
 was advanced into the higher clafiies, enrolled with the philofo- 
 phers, and admitted to their habit. The title of Sophifl was 
 conferred on him, when mature in years and erudition ; and 
 this was an honour fo much affedled, that the attainment of it 
 almoft furnifhed an apology for infolent pride and extravagant 
 elation. It was a cuftom of the mafters to infcribe on marble 
 the names of their fcholars, thofe of Attica ranged under their 
 refpedlive tribes ; and alfo to what demos or borough each 
 belonged. Some fpecimens of thefe regifters are preferved in 
 the Oxford colledion, and many fragments are yet extant at 
 Athens. 
 
 At this period Athens abounded in philofophers. It fwarmed, 
 according to Lucian, with clokes and ftaves and fatchels ; you 
 beheld every where a long beard, a book in the left hand, 
 and the walks full of companies, difcourfing and reafoning. 
 The cloke or Tribonium was the habit of all the orders. The 
 general colour was dark, but the Cynic wore white, and, with 
 the Stoic, had the folds doubled. One flioulder was bare 3 the 
 hair hanging down j the beard unfliaven. The Cynic, with 
 
 I About 468/. See W. Wotton's Hiftory of Rome. London 1701. p. 106, 
 with the Errata and p. 169, 
 
 the 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 115 
 
 the Stoic and Pythagorean, was ilovenly and negligent, his 
 cloke in tatters, his nails long, and his feet naked. The Cynic 
 was armed with a ftaff, as a defence from dogs or the rabble. 
 The Sophift was adorned with purple, and commonly polifhed 
 as well in drefs and perfon as in manners and language. It 
 behoved the profefTor, as Lucian affirms, to be handfomely 
 clothed, to be fleek and comely, and above all to have a flowing 
 beard infpiring thofe who approached him with veneration, and 
 fuitable to the falary he received from the emperor. 
 
 A learned father ', who was contemporary with Julian at 
 Athens, has defcribed the manner in which the Novice was 
 treated on his arrival there, with the ceremony of initiation. 
 He was firft furrounded by the pupils and partizans of the dif- 
 ferent Sophifts, all eager to recommend their favourite mafter. 
 He was hofpitably entertained ; and afterwards the ftudents 
 were allowed to attack him with rude or ingenuous difputation, 
 as each was difpofed. This, the relater has furmifed, was in- 
 tended to mortify conceit, and to render him tra(flable. He 
 was next to be invefled with the habit. A proceflion in pairs, 
 at equal diftances, condudled him through the Agora to a 
 public bath, probably that without Dipylon by the monument 
 of Anthemocritus. An oppofition was feigned on their approach 
 to the door, fome calling out and forbidding his admiffion, fome 
 urging on and knocking. Thefe prevailed. He was introduced 
 into a warm cell, waflied, and then clothed with the Tribonium. 
 He was faluted as an equal on his coming out, and re-condu6led. 
 No one was fuffered to appear in that drefs at Athens with- 
 out the permiffion of the Sophifts and this ceremony, which was 
 attended with confiderable expenfe. 
 
 The Philofophers were long as diftinguifhed by their aver- 
 fioa to Chriftianity as by their garment. It is recorded of 
 Juftin Martyr, that he preached in the Tribonium, to which 
 
 1 Gregorius Nazianzen. Orat. xx. 
 
 0^2 he 
 
ii6 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 be had been admitted before his converfion. Some Monks alfo, 
 whom the Gentiles termed impoftors, afTumed it, uniting with 
 fpiritual pride and confummate vanity, an affedlation of lingular 
 humility and of indifference to worldly {how. But the emperor 
 Jovian commanding the temples to be fliut, and prohibiting 
 facrifice, the prudent philofopher then concealed his profeffion, 
 and relinqiiiflied his cloke for the common drefs. The order 
 was treated with feverity by Valens his fucceffor, becaufe fome 
 of them, to animate their party, had foretold that the next 
 Emperor would be a Gentile. They were addidled to divina- 
 tion and magic, and it was pretended, had partly difcovered his 
 name. The habit was not wholly laid afide. In the next 
 reign, a fedition happened at Alexandria, when Olympius a 
 Philofopher, wearing the cloke, was exceedingly adlive, urging 
 the Gentiles to repell the Reformers, and not to remit of their 
 zeal or be dilheartened becaufe they were difpofleffed of their 
 idols ; for the powers, which had inhabited them, were, he 
 afferted, flown away into heaven. The Heathen philofophers 
 gradually difappeared ; but the Chriftian, their fucceflbrs are 
 not yet extindt, ftill flourifhing in Catholic countries, and dif- 
 fering not lefs than the antient fe&s, in drefs, tenets, and rules 
 of living. 
 
 The decline of Philofophy muft have deeply affeded the 
 profperity of Athens. A gradual defertion of the place followed. 
 Minerva could no longer protedt her city. Its beauty was vio- 
 lated by the Proconful, who ftripped Pcecile of its pretious 
 paintings. It was forfaken by good fortune, and would have 
 lingered in decay, but the Barbarians interpofed, and fuddenly 
 completed its downfall. When the Goths were in polTeflion of 
 it in the time of Claudius, two hundred and fixty nine years 
 after Chrift, they amaffed all the books, intending, it is related, 
 to burn them j but defifted, on a reprefentation that the Greeks 
 were diverted by the amufements of ftudy from military pur- 
 fuits. Alaric, under Arcadius and Honorius, was not afraid of 
 
 their 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 117 
 
 their becoming foldiers. The city was pillaged, and the libra- 
 ries were consumed. Devaflation then reigned within, and 
 folitude without its walls. The fweet firens, the vocal night- 
 ingales, as the Sophifts are fondly flyled, were heard no more. 
 Philofophy and Eloquence were exiled, and their antient feat 
 occupied by ignorant honey-fadtors of mount Hymettus. 
 
 CHAP. XXV. 
 
 Of the ■people of Athens — lUie 'Tiirkijl:) government — 'The Turks 
 — The Greeks — The Albanians — The Archbifiop — Charac- 
 ter of the Athenians. 
 
 ATHENS, after it was abandoned by the Goths, continued, 
 it is likely, for ages to preferve the race of its remaining inha- 
 bitants unchanged, and uniform in language and manners. 
 Hiftory is filentof its fuffering from later incuriions, from wars, 
 and mailacres. Plenty and the profpedl of advantage produces 
 new fettlers ; but, where no trade exifts, employment will be 
 wanting, and Attica was never celebrated for fertility. The 
 plague has not been, as at Smyrna, a frequent vifitant ; becaufe 
 the intercourfe fublifling with the iflands and other places has 
 been fmall, and the port is at a diftance. The plague defcribed. 
 by Thucydides began in the Piraeus, and the Athenians at firfl 
 believed that the enemy had poifoned the wells. If, from inad- 
 vertency, the infection be now admitted into the town, the 
 Turks as well as the Greeks have the prudence to retire to their 
 houfes in the country or to the monafteries, and it feldom pre- 
 vails either fo long or fo terribly as in cities on the coaft. 
 
 i^ colony of new proprietors was introduced into Athens by 
 Mahomet the fecond ; but the people fecured fome privileges by 
 their capitulation, and have fince obtained more by addrefs or 
 
 money. 
 
n8 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 money. The Turk has favoured the fpot, and beftowed on it 
 a milder tyranny. The Kiflar Aga or chief of the black Eu- 
 nuchs at Conftantinople is their patron ; and by him the Turkirti 
 magiftrates are appointed. The Vaiwode purchafes his govern- 
 ment yearly, but circumfpedtion and moderation are requifite in 
 exadling the revenue, and the ufual concomitants of his ftaticn 
 are uneafinefs, apprehenlion, and danger. The impatience of 
 oppreflion, when general, begets public vengeance. The Turks 
 and their vaffals have united, feized and cut their tyrants in 
 pieces, or forced them to feek refuge in the mountains or in the 
 Acropolis. An infurredlion had happened not many years before 
 we arrived, and the diftrefs, which followed from want of water 
 in the fortrefs, was defcribed to us as extreme. 
 
 The Turks of Athens are in general more polite, focial, and 
 affable, than is common in that ftately race ; living on more 
 equal terms with their fellow-citizens, and partaking, in fome 
 degree, of the Greek charader. The fame intermixture, which 
 has foftened their aufterity, has corrupted their temperance ; 
 and many have foregone the national abftinence from wine, 
 drinking freely, except during their Ramazan or Lent. Some 
 too after a long lapfe have re-affumed, and rigidly adhere to it, 
 as fuiting the gravity of a beard, and the decorum of paternal 
 authority. Several of the families date their fettlement from 
 the taking of the city. They are reckoned at about three 
 hundred. Their number, though comparatively fmall, is more 
 than fufficient to keep the Chriftians fully fenfible of their 
 maflery. The Turks pofTefs from their childhood an habitual 
 fuperiority, and awe with a look the loftieft vaffal. Their de- 
 portment is often ftern and haughty. Many in private life are 
 diftinguifhed by ftridl honour, by pundluality, and uprightnefs 
 in their dealings; and almofl all by external fandlity of manners. 
 If they are narrow minded in the extreme, it is the refult of a 
 confined education ; and an avaritious temper is a natural confe- 
 quence of their rapacious government. 
 
 The 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 119 
 
 The Greeks may be regarded as the reprefentatives of the 
 old Athenians. We have related, that, on our arrival in the 
 Pirsus, an Archon came from the city to receive us. The 
 learned reader was perhaps touched by that refpedlable title, and 
 annexed to it fome portion of its claffical importance ; but the 
 Archons are now mere names, except a tall fur-cap, and a fuller 
 and better drefs than is worn by the inferior clafles. Some have 
 fliops in the Bazar, fome are merchants, or farmers of the 
 public revenue. The families, ftyled Archontic, are eight or 
 ten in number ; moflly on the decline. The perfon, who met 
 us, was of one reckoned very antient, which, by his account, 
 had been fettled at Athens about three hundred years, or after 
 Mahomet the fecond. His patrimony had fufFered from the 
 extortions of a tyrannical Vaiwode, but he had repaired the 
 lofs by trade and by renting petty governments. The ordinary 
 habit of the meaner citizens is a red ikuU-cap, a jacket, and a 
 fafli round the middle, loofe breeches or trowfers, which tie 
 with a large knot before, and a long veft, which they hang on 
 their (boulders, lined with wool or fur for cold weather. By 
 following the lower occupations, they procure, not without 
 difficulty, a pittance of profit to fubfift them, to pay their tri- 
 bute-money, and to purchafe garments for the feftivals, when 
 they mutually vie in appearing well-clothed, their pride even 
 exceeding their poverty. 
 
 The lordly Turk and lively Greek negledling paflurage and 
 agriculture, that province, which in Afia Minor is occupied by 
 the Turcomans, has been obtained in Europe by the Albanians 
 or Albanefe. Thefe are a people remote from their original 
 country, which was by the Cafpian fea, fpreading over and cul- 
 tivating alien lands, and, as of old, addifted to univerfal huf- 
 bandry and to migration. It is chiefly their bufinefs to plough, 
 fow, and reap j dig, fence, plant, and prune the vineyard; 
 attend the watering of the olive-tree; and gather in the harveft; 
 going forth before the dawn of day, and returning joyous on 
 the clofe of their labour. If fhepherds, they live on the moun- 
 tains, 
 t 
 
I20 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 tains, in the vale, or the plain, as the varying feafons require, 
 under arbours or fheds covered with boughs, tending their 
 flocks abroad, or milking the ewes and flie-goats at the fold, 
 and making cheefe and butter to fupply the city. Inured early 
 to fatigue and the fun, they are hardy and robuft, of manly car- 
 riage, very different from that of the fawning obfequious Greek, 
 and of defperate bravery under every difadvantage, when com- 
 pelled by neceffity or oppreffion, to unite and endeavour to 
 extort redrefs. Their habit is fimple and fuccindt, reaching to 
 the knees. They have a national language, and are members of 
 the Greek communion. 
 
 The Chriftians, both Greeks and Albanians, are more im- 
 mediately fuperintended by the ArchbilTiop, and by the two 
 Epitropi or curators, who are chofen from among the principal 
 men, and venerable for their long beards. Thefc endeavour to 
 quiet all difputes, and prevent the parties from recurring to the 
 fevere tribunal of the Cadi or Turkifli judge, watching over 
 the commonweal, and regulating its internal polity, which flill 
 retains fome faint and obfcure traces of the antient popular 
 form, though without dignity or importance. The fee was now 
 poflelTed by Bartholemew, a Walachian, who had lately pur- 
 chafed it at Conftantinople. He was abfent when we arrived j 
 but on his return to Athens, fent us a prefent of fine fruit and 
 of honey from M. Hymettus ; and came to vifit us at the 
 convent, on horfeback, attended by a virger and fome of his 
 clergy on foot. He was a comely and portly man, with a black 
 thick beard. 
 
 A TRADITIONAL ftory was related to us at Smyrna and 
 afterwards at Athens, to illuftrate the native quicknefs of appre- 
 henfion, which, as if tranfmiflive and the property of the foil, 
 is inherited even by the lower claffes of the people. A perfon 
 made trial of a poor fhepherd, whom he met with his flock, 
 demanding, o-Tro •^ra; xo/ tth ; kcij ttojjj kccj Troa-a.. Frotn ivhence ? 
 and where ? and how ? and how many ? He was anfwered with- 
 out 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 121 
 
 out hefitatlon, and with equal brevity, att' a'^vu;, us AtjfSci^a, 
 Qio^co^c?, Kccj TTivlctKoa-ia,. From Athens, to Livadia, T^heodore, and 
 Jive hundred. In the citizens this aptitude not being duly culti- 
 vated, inftead of producing genius, degenerates into cunning. 
 They are juflly reputed a moft crafty, fubtle, and acute race. 
 It has been jocofely affirmed, that no Jew can live among them, 
 becaufe he will be continually out-witted. They are confcious 
 of their fubjedion to the Turk, and as fupple as deprefled, from 
 the memory of the blows on the feet and indignities, which they 
 have experienced or feen inflidled, and from the terror of the 
 penalty annexed to refiftance, which is the forfeiture of the hand 
 uplifted : but their difpofition, as antiently, is unquiet ; their 
 repofe difturbed by factious intrigues and private animofities 5 
 the body politic weakened by divifion, and often impelled in a 
 direction oppofite to its true intereft. They have two fchools, 
 one of which pofleffes a fmall colledion of books, and is entitled 
 to an annual payment from Venice, the endowment of a chari- 
 table Athenian, but the money is not regularly remitted. 
 
 CHAP. XXVI. 
 
 Care of the female fex at Athens — Drefs of the 'Turkifi women 
 abroad— Of the Greek — Of the Albanian -— Drefs of the 
 Greek at home — Manner of colouring the fockets of their eyes 
 — Their education. 
 
 THE liberty of the fair fex at Athens is almofl: equally 
 abridged by the Turks and Greeks. Their houfes are fecured 
 with high walls, and the windows turned from the ftreel, and 
 latticed, or boarded up, fo as to preclude all intercourfe, even 
 of the eyes. The haram, or apartment of the Turkish women, 
 is not only impenetrable, but mull not be regarded on the out- 
 fide with any degree of attention. To approach them, when 
 abroad, will give offence j and in the town, if they cannot be 
 
 R avoided, 
 
122 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 avoided, it is the cuftom to turn to the wall and ftand ftill, 
 without looking toward them, while they pafs. This mode of 
 carriage is good breeding at Athens, 
 
 The Turkifh women claim an exemption from their confine- 
 ment on one day only in the week, when they vifit their rela- 
 tions, and are feen going in companies to the baths or fitting 
 in the burying-grounds on the graves of their friends, their 
 children, hufbands, or parents. They are then enwrapped and 
 beclothed in fuch a manner, it is impoflible to difcern whether 
 they are young or old, handfome or ugly. Their heads, as low 
 as the eye-brows, are covered with white linen, and alfo their 
 faces beneath ; the prominency of the nofe and mouth giving 
 them nearly the vifages of mummies. They draw down a veil 
 of black gaufe over their eyes, the moment a man or boy comes 
 in view. They wear fliort loofe boots of leather, red or yellow, 
 with a large fheet over their common garments, and appear 
 very bulky. 
 
 The drefs of the Greek matrons is a garment of red or blue 
 cloth, the waift very fliort, the long petticoat falling in folds to 
 the ground. A thin flowing veil of muflin, with a golden rim 
 or border, is thrown over the head and flioulders. The attire 
 of the virgins is a long red veft, with a fquare cape of yellow 
 fattin hanging down behind. They walk with their hands con- 
 cealed in the pocket-holes at the fides, and their faces are 
 muffled. Sometimes they afiume the Turkifli garb. Neither 
 prudence nor modefty fufFers a maiden to be feen by the men 
 before flie is married. Her beauty might inflame the Turk, 
 who can take her legally, by force, to his bed, on a fentence of 
 the Cadi or judge ; and the Greek, if flie revealed her face to 
 him even unwillingly, would rejeft her as criminal and with 
 difdain. 
 
 The Albanian women are inured early to hard living, labour, 
 and the fun. Their features are injured by penury, and their 
 
 complexions 
 
TRAVELS TV HRFHCE. 123 
 
 complexions by the air. Their drefs is coarfe and fimple ; a 
 fliift reaching to the ancle, a thick fafli about the waift, and a ftiort 
 loofe woollen veft. Their hair is platted in two divifions, and 
 the ends faftened to a red filken ftring, which, with a taflel, is 
 pendant to their heels, and frequently laden with pieces of filver 
 coin, of various fizes, diminifhing gradually to the bottom. 
 Among thefe the antiquarian may often difcover medals of value. 
 They are feen carrying water on their backs, in earthen jars, 
 with • handles ; wafliing by the fountains, or afTembled by the 
 IliiTus after rain, with the female flaves of the Mahometans 
 and other fervants j treading their linen, or beating it with a 
 piece of heavy wood, fpreading it on the ground or bufhes to 
 dry, and conveying it to and fro in panniers or wicker-balkets 
 on an afs. Their legs and feet are generally bare ; and their 
 heads hooded, as it were, with a long towel, which encircles 
 the neck, one extremity hanging down before and the other 
 behind. The girls wear a red fkull-cap plated with peraus or 
 Turkifh pennies of filver perforated, and ranged like the fcales 
 of fifli. 
 
 The Greek will fometimes admit a traveller into his gyne- 
 caeum or the apartment of his women. Thefe within doors, 
 are as it were uncafed, and each a contraft of the figure fhe 
 made when abroad. There the girl, like Thetis, treading on a 
 foft carpet, has her white and delicate feet naked j the nails 
 tinged with red. Her trowfers, which in winter are of red 
 cloth, and in fummer of fine callico or thin gaufe, defcend from 
 the hip to the ancle, hanging loofely about her limbs ; the 
 lower portion embroidered with flowers, and appearing beneath 
 the fhift, which has the fleeves wide and open, and the feams 
 and edges curioufly adorned with needle-work. Her veft is of 
 filk, exadly fitted to the form of the bofom and the fhape of 
 the body, which it rather covers than conceals, and is fhorter 
 than the fhift. The fleeves button occafionally to the hand, and 
 are lined with red or yellow fattin. A rich zone encompafles 
 her waift, and is faftened before by clafps of filver gilded, or of 
 
 R 2 gold 
 
124 TRAVF. T,R TV ORE BCD. 
 
 gold fet with pretious ftones. Over the veft is a robe, in fum- 
 mer lined with ermine, and in cold weather with fur. The 
 head-drefs is a ikull-cap, red or green, with pearls; a flay 
 under the chin, and a yellow forehead-cloth. She has brace- 
 lets of gold on her wrifts ; and, like Aurora, is rofy-fingered, 
 the tips being ftained. Her necklace is a firing of Zechins, a 
 fpecies of gold coin, or of the pieces called Byzantines. At 
 her cheeks is a lock of hair made to curl toward the face j and 
 down her back falls a profufion of treffes, fpreading over her 
 fhoulders. Much time is confumed in combing and braiding 
 the hair after bathing, and, at the greater feftivals, in enriching 
 and powdering it with fmall bits of filver gilded, refembling a 
 violin in fhape, and woven in at regular diflances. She is 
 painted blue round the eyes j and the infides of the fockets> 
 with the edges on which the lafhes grow, are tinged with black. 
 The Turkifh ladies wear nearly the fame attire, and ufe fimilar 
 arts to heighten their natural beauty. 
 
 For colouring the laflies and focket of the eye, they throw 
 incenfe or gum of Labdanum on fome coals of fire, intercept the 
 fmoke, which afcends, with a plate, and colledl the foot. This 
 I faw applied. A girl, fitting crofs-legged as ufual, on a fofa, 
 and clofing one of her eyes, took the two lafhes between the 
 forefinger and thumb of her left hand, pulled them forward, 
 and then thrufling in, at the external corner, a bodkin, which 
 had been immerfed in the foot, and extradling it again, the 
 particles before adhering to it, remained within, and were pre- 
 fently ranged round the organ ; ferving as a foil to its luftre, 
 befides contributing, as they fay, to its health, and increafing 
 its apparent magnitude. 
 
 The improvement of the mind and morals is not confidered 
 as a momentous part of female education at Athens. The girls 
 are taught to dance, to play on the Turkifh guittar and the 
 tympanum or timbrel, and to embroider, an art in which they 
 generally excel. A woman ikilled in reading and writing is 
 
 fpoken 
 
TRAVELS IN GRKliCJi. 125 
 
 fpoken of as a prodigy of capacity and learning. The mother 
 of Ofman Aga, a Turk who frequented our houfe, was of this 
 rare number, and, as he often told us, fo terrible for her know- 
 lege, that even Achmet Aga her kinfman had been feen to 
 tremble, when he received her annual vifit. In common life 
 the woman waits on her hufband, and after dreffing the provifi" 
 ons, which he purchafed, eats perhaps with a female flave j the 
 ftately lord feeding alone or in company with men». 
 
 CHAP. xxvir. 
 
 Of the territory of Athens — 'The olive-groves —- Bees — Provi- 
 fans — Birds — Hare-calling — Wild beajls — The horned owl 
 — A water-fpout — Antient prognojiics of weather—- Sting of 
 a Scorpion. 
 
 THE territory of Athens was antiently well peopled. The 
 demi or boroughs were in number one hundred and feventy four y 
 fcattered, except fome conftituting the city, about the country. 
 Frequent traces of them are found; and feveral ftill exift, but 
 moftly reduced to very inconfiderable villages. Many wells alfo 
 occur on Lycabettus, at the Piraeus, in the plain, and all over 
 Attica. Some are feen in the vineyards and gardens nearly in 
 their priftine ftate ; a circular rim of marble, about a yard high, 
 ftanding on a fquare pavement ; adorned, not inelegantly, with 
 wreathed ilutings on the outfide ; or plain, with mouldings at 
 the top and bottom -, the inner furface deep-worn by the fridion 
 of ropes. The bucket is a kettle, ajar, or the fkin of a goat 
 or kid diftended ; and clofe by is commonly a trough or hollow 
 ilone, into which they pour water for the cattle. The city was 
 fupplied with corn from Sicily and Africa j and the regard 
 of the emperors and kings, its patrons, was difplayed in largefles 
 of wheat and barley to be diftributed, generally in the Odeum. 
 At prefent, Attica is thinly .inhabited, and probably produces 
 
 grain. 
 
526 TRAVELG IN GREECE. 
 
 grain fufficlent for the natives ; but the edidls prohibiting expor- 
 tation are continually eluded, and public diftrefs bordering on 
 famine enfues almoft yearly. 
 
 The olive-groves are novjr, as antlently, a principal fource 
 of the riches of Athens. The wood of thefe trees, watered by 
 the Cephiffus, about three miles from the city, has been com- 
 puted at leaft fix miles long. The mills for preffing and grind- 
 ing the olives are in the town. The oil is depofited in large 
 earthen jars funk, in the ground in the areas before the houfes. 
 The crops had failed for five years fucceffively when we arrived. 
 The caufe afligned was a northerly wind called Greco Tramon- 
 tano, which deftroyed the flower. The fruit is fet in about a 
 fortnight, when the apprehenfion from this unpropitious quarter 
 ceafes. The bloom in the following year was unhurt, and we 
 had the pleafure of leaving the Athenians happy in the profpedl 
 of a plentiful harveft. By a law of Solon no tree could be 
 planted lefs than five feet, nor an olive or fig-tree lefs than nine 
 feet from one of another proprietor. 
 
 The honey, as well as the oil of Attica, was antiently In 
 
 high repute. Many encomiums are extant on that of Hymettus, 
 
 in particular, and it deferves them all. Flies are remarked to 
 
 buzz about it, without fettling, which has been attributed to 
 
 the odour it derived from thyme. The race of bees was faid to 
 
 have been originally produced in Hymettus, and to have 
 
 fwarmed from thence in numerous colonies to people other 
 
 regions. The mountain furnifhes a fucceflion of aromatic plants, 
 
 herbs and flowers peculiarly adapted to maintain them both in 
 
 fummer and winter. The hives are fet on the ground in rows 
 
 inclofed within a low wall. Their form, and management, and 
 
 the method of taking the comb without deftroying the infefts, 
 
 has been defcribed '. By a law of Solon no perfon was allowed 
 
 to place a iland within three hundred yards of one before efta- 
 
 bliihcd. 
 
 ' Wheler, p. 411. 
 
 Provi- 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 127 
 
 Provisions of all kinds are good and cheap at Athens. 
 The frequent and fevere fafts impofed by the Greek church have 
 an influence on the market. The Chriftians are often confined 
 to vegetables or to things without blood ; fuch as fnails, which, 
 they gather from the fhrubs, the cutle-fifh, or the fea-polypus. 
 The latter called by the Greeks o6topodes, from the number of 
 its feet, is beaten to make it tender j and, when boiled, is 
 white, like the tail of lobfter, but has not much flavour. 
 Hares, game, and fowl, may be purchafed for little more than 
 the value of the powder and fhot. Oranges, lemons, and 
 citrons grow in the gardens. The grapes and melons are ex- 
 cellent, and the figs were celebrated of old. The wines are 
 wholfome, but the pitch, infufed to preferve them, communi- 
 cates a tafle, to which ftrangers are not prefently reconciled. 
 
 When the figs ripen, a very fmall bird, called by the Ita- 
 lians beccafigo, by the Greeks fycophas, appears, and is conti- 
 nually fettling on the branches of the tree and pecking the 
 fruit. If frightened away, they return almoft immediately, 
 and a perfon fitting in the corn or concealed by a thicket may 
 fire with little intermifllon. They are eaten roaflied entire each 
 in a vine-leaf, and are a delicacy. When the olives blacken, 
 vaft flights of doves, pigeons, thruflies and other birds repair to 
 the groves for food. Wild turkies are not rare. The red- 
 legged partridge, with her numerous brood, bafks in the fun or 
 feeks fhade among the mafi:ic-bu(hes. They are fond of the 
 berries in the feafon, and have then a ftrong but not difagreea- 
 ble tafte. In winter, woodcocks abound; defcending, after 
 fnow on the mountains, into the plain, efpecially on the fide of 
 the CephifiTus, and as fuddenly retiring. If the weather conti- 
 nue fevere, and the ground be frozen, they enter the gardens of 
 the town in great diftrefs, rather than crofs the feaj and are 
 fometimes taken with the hand. Snipes, teal, widgeon, ducks, 
 and the like, are alfo found in plenty. A horfe or afs is com- 
 monly 
 
128 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 monly provided by fportCmen, who go in a party, to bring home 
 what they kill. 
 
 Hares are exceedingly numerous. Calling Is pradlifed in 
 ftill weather from the latter end of May to about the middle of 
 Auguft. Three or four men in a company ftand filent and con- 
 cealed in a thicket, with guns pointed in different direftions. 
 When all are ready, the caller applies two of his fingers to his 
 lips, and fucking them, at firft llowly and then fafter, produces 
 a fqueaking found ; when the hares, within hearing, rufh to 
 the fpot. In this manner many are flaughtered in a day. One 
 of my companions, with Lombardi, a Turk and Greek or two, 
 who were adepts, killed eleven ; among which was a female big 
 with young. Thefe animals are faid to affemble together, to 
 leap and play, at the full of the moon ; and, it is likely the 
 lliepherds, who live much abroad, obferving and liftening to 
 them, learned to imitate their voices, to deceive, and make 
 them thus fooliflily abet their own deftrudion. 
 
 The wild hearts, which find fhelter in the mountains, greatly 
 annoy the fhepherds ; and their folds are conftantly guarded by 
 feveral large fierce dogs. The perfon, who killed a wolf, was 
 entitled by a law of Solon to a reward ; if a female to one 
 drachm, about feven-pence half-penny ; if a male, to five 
 drachms. Afterwards a talent, or one hundred and eighty 
 pounds fterling was paid for a young wolf; and double that 
 fum for one full grown. The peafant now produces the fkin in 
 the Bazar or market, and is recompenfed by voluntary contri- 
 bution. Parnes, the mountain toward the Cephiffus, is haunted, 
 befides wolves, by deer and foxes, as it formerly was by wild 
 boars and bears. The fportfmen lie in ambufh by the fprings, 
 which they frequent, waiting their approach in the dufk of 
 evening. Pliny ' mentions the deer bred about Parnes and 
 JBrilefTus, as remarkable for four kidneys, and the hares as hav- 
 
 * 1. II. c, 37. 
 
 ing 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 129 
 
 ing two livers '. The latter peculiarity in fome, which we 
 purchafed, was much noticed by our Swifs, who once brought 
 the two livers for my infpeftion on a plate. The youth of 
 Athens were antiently trained to hunting as a manly and ufeful 
 cxercife. 
 
 The favourite bird of Minerva was the large horned owl. 
 The Athenians flamped its effigy on their coin, and placed it as 
 her companion in her temple in the Acropolis. We had not 
 been long at the convent before a peafant brought us one alive, 
 with the wing broken. This recovered, and was much vifited. 
 during our ftay, as a novelty. Afterwards I faw another, flying, 
 in the day-time. They are as ravenous as eagles, and, if preffed 
 by hunger, will attack lambs and hares. On leaving Athens, 
 we fet our venerable and voracious prifoner at liberty, not with- 
 out fear that, after fo long confinement, he would be unable to 
 procure food, or, being unweildy, to efcape the wild hearts, 
 which prowl nightly in queft of prey. 
 
 About the middle of Odober, while we refided at the 
 convent, I had the fatlsfaftion of feeing diftlndlly the phaeno- 
 menon called a water-fpout from the window of my apart- 
 ment, which looked toward the fea. The weather had changed 
 from fettled and pleafant, and clouds refided on the mountains, 
 black and awful, particularly on Hymettus, whofe fide and tops 
 were covered. About feven in the morning, when I rofe, a 
 cloud tapering to a point had defcended in the gulf between the 
 iflands .-Eglna and Salamis. Round it at the bottom was a 
 fliining mift. After a minute or more, it began gradually to 
 contradt itfelf, and retired very leifurely up again into the fky. 
 We had little rain this day, but at night pale lightning flaflied 
 at Ihort Intervals, and thunder, burfting over our heads, exceed- 
 ingly loud, rolled tremendoufly, and it poured down as from 
 open fluices. The quantity of water, which fell, was anfwer- 
 able to the long and vifible preparation, but feafonable } feed 
 time approaching. 
 
 ' The partridges in Paphlagonia were found to have two hearts, and the hares in 
 Bifaltia two livers. A. Gellius, p. 906. 
 
 S Athens 
 
130 
 
 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 Athens has on the weft fide of the plain the mountains 
 i^galeos and Parnes, now called Daphne-vouni and Cafha ; on 
 the north, Brileflus or Nozea ; on the north-eaft about fix 
 miles diftant, Pentele ; and next the JEge&n fea, Hymettus or 
 Telo-vouni. The latter has a gap in it, dividing the greater 
 from the leffer mountain, which is toward the fouth and was 
 formerly called Anydrus, from its being deftitute of water. The 
 clouds attracted by fome of thefe mountains antiently furnifhed 
 a variety of prognoftics of the weather. A fmall cloud in the 
 hollow of Anydrus, or white clouds in fummer above the 
 greater or leffer mountain and on the fide of Hymettus, por- 
 tended rain. If in the night a long white cloud girded it 
 beneath the top, the rain generally continued for fome days. A 
 long cloud refting on Hymettus in winter pre-fignified a violent 
 ftorm. At the fetting of the feven ftars called Vergili^, light- 
 ning about Parnes, Brileflus, and Hymettus, if all were com- 
 prehended, denoted a great ftorm ; if two, a leffer ; but if 
 Parnes alone, ferene weather. A ftorm enfued, if clouds en- 
 veloped that portion of Parnes, which was toward Zephyrus or 
 the weft. It was obferved alfo, that a cloud refting on iEgina 
 and above the temple of Jupiter Panhellenius there, was com- 
 monly followed by rain. 
 
 A DAY or two after the ftorm before-mentioned, the capu- 
 chin, as we were converfing by the window of his apartment, 
 put his hand incautioufly on the frame, and, faddenly with- 
 drawing it, complained of a painful pundure. A Turk, who 
 was with us, on examining the wall, found a fcorpion of a pale 
 green colour, and near three inches long, which he cruflied 
 with his foot, and bound on the part affeded, as an antidote to 
 its own poifon. The fmart became inconfiderable after the 
 remedy was applied j and as no inflammation followed, foon 
 ceafed. The fting, if negledted, produces acute pain attended 
 with a fever and other fymptoms for feveral hours, until the 
 paroxyfm is over, when, the malignancy of the virus as it were 
 
 decaying. 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 131 
 
 decaying, the patient is left gradually free. Some preferve 
 fcorpions in oil in a viaj, to be ufed if that which commits the 
 hoftility fliould efcape ; though it feldom happens but on turn- 
 ing up a log or ftone another may be found to fupply its place. 
 This was the only one I ever faw at Athens, within doors. 
 We fuppofed it had entered at the window for flielter, and to 
 avoid the danger of being drowned by the flood. 
 
 CHAP. XXVIII. 
 
 IFe remove from the Convent — A 'Turk defcribed—The Atheni- 
 ans civil to us — A 'TurkiJJ) foot-race and •wrejiling-match- — 
 Dance of the Arabian ivotnen — Greek dances — Marriages of 
 the Turks — Of the Greeks — Of the Albattians — Funeral 
 ceremonies — No learning — Credulity and fuperjiition. 
 
 WE were inftrudted by the committee of Dilettanti 
 not to interfere at Athens with the labours of MefT". Stuart and 
 Revett, but folely to attend to thofe articles, which they had 
 either omitted or not completed. With this reftriftion, we 
 foon perceived, that we had matter to detain us much longer 
 than had been expefted. After fome weeks the profpedt of a 
 fpeedy conclufion continuing diftant, we removed from the 
 convent to a large and commodious houfe, belonging to one of 
 the archons. It had many trap-doors and hiding-places, and, 
 ftanding detached, was called {)iv\a-)) the if and. 
 
 A PLACE where the fair fex bears no part in foclety will 
 be juftly fuppofed dull and uniform. Indeed, a Turk is gener- 
 ally a folemn, folitary Being; with few vifible enjoyments 
 except his pipe and coffee. The former is his conftant compa- 
 nion. It is his folace on the fofa; and when fquatting on his hams, 
 
 82 as 
 
132 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 as he is fometimes feen, in the (hade by the door of his houfe ; 
 or in a group, looking on, while the horfes, which are flaked 
 down with a rope, feed in the feafon on the green corn. When 
 he is walking or riding, it is carried in his hand or by an attend- 
 ant. The tube is of wood perforated, commonly long and 
 pliant, and fometimes hung with fmall filver crefcents and 
 chains, with a mouth-piece of amber. The bole is earthen, 
 and a bit of aloe-wood put into it, while he is fmoking, 
 augments his pleafure, yielding a grateful perfume. A filken 
 embroidered bag is ufually tucked in at his fafli, by his fide, and 
 contains tobacco. His horfe, his arms, and haram are the other 
 chief obje(a:s of his attention. He is grave, fententious, and 
 fteady, but fond of narrations and not difficult to be overcome 
 by a ftory. 
 
 The Turks, obferving that we did not ufe the fign of the 
 crofs, and being informed that we difapproved of the worfliip- 
 ping of pictures or images, conceived a favourable opinion of us. 
 Their abhorrence of hog-flefh is unfeigned, and we derived 
 fome popularity from a report, which we did not contradidt, 
 that we held it in equal deteftation. Several of them frequented 
 our table. The principal Turks came all to our houfe at night, 
 while it was Ramazan or Lent when they faft in the day-time > 
 and were entertained by us with fweet-meat, pipes, coffee, and 
 fherbet much to their fatisfadlion, though diflreffed by our 
 chairs; fome trying to colleft their legs under them on the 
 leats, and fome fquatting down by the fides. When we vifited 
 them, we were received with cordiality, and treated with dif- 
 tindlion. Sweet gums were burned in the middle of the room, 
 to fcent the air ; or fcattered on coals before us, while fitting on 
 the fofa, to perfume our muflaches and garments ; and at the 
 door, on our departure, we were fprinkled with rofe-water. 
 The vaiwode at certain feafons fent his muficians to play in our 
 court. The Greeks were not lefs civil, and at Eafl:er we had 
 the company of the archons in a body. Several of them alfo 
 eat often with us j and we had daily prefents of flowers, fome- 
 times 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE, 133 
 
 times perfumed, of pomgranates, oranges and lemons frefb 
 gathered, paftry, and other like articles. 
 
 The Turks have few public games or fports. We were 
 prefent at a foot-race and at a wreftling-match provided by a 
 rich Turk for the entertainment of his fon and other boys, who 
 were about to be circumcifed. A train, headed by the vaiwode 
 and principal men on horfes richly caparifoned, attended the 
 boys, who were all neatly drefTed, their white turbans glittering 
 with tinfel ornaments, to a place without the city, where 
 carpets were fpread for them on the ground, in the fhade, and 
 a multitude of fpedtators waited filent and refpedtful. The 
 race was foon over, and the prizes were diftributed ; to the 
 winner a fufficient quantity of cloth for an upper garment, to 
 the next a live flieep, to the third a kid, to the fourth a huge 
 water-melon. The company then removed to a level fpot near 
 the ruin of the temple of Jupiter Olympius, and formed a 
 large circle. The wrefllers were naked, except a pair of clofe 
 drawers, and were anointed all over with oil. 
 
 Some Arabians and black flaves, who had obtained their free- 
 dom and were fettled at Athens, had a feaft on the performance of 
 the rite of circumcifion. The women danced in a ring, with flicks 
 in their hands, and turning in pairs clafbed them over their 
 heads, at intervals, finging wildly to the mufic. A couple 
 then danced with caftanets j and the other fwarthy ladies, fitting 
 crofs-legged on a fofa, began fmoking. 
 
 Athens was antiently enlivened by the chorufes finging and 
 dancing in the open air, in the front of the temples of the 
 gods and round their altars, at the feftival of Bacchus and on 
 other holidays. The Greeks are frequently feen engaged in the 
 fame exercife, generally in pairs, efpecially on the anniverfa- 
 ries of their faints, and often in the areas before their churches. 
 Their common mufic is a large labour and pipe, or a lyre and 
 tympanum or timbrel. Some of their dances are undoubtedly 
 
 of 
 
134 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 of remote antiquity. One has been fuppofed ' that which was 
 called the crane, and was faid to have been invented by Thefeus, 
 after his efcape from the labyrinth of Crete. The peafants 
 perform it yearly in the ftreet of the French convent, at the 
 conclufion of the vintage ; joining hands, and preceding their 
 mules and affes, which are laden with grapes in panniers, in a 
 very curved and intricate figure ; the leader waving a handker- 
 chief, which has been imagined to denote the clew given by 
 Ariadne. A grand circular dance, in which the Albaniaa 
 women join, is exhibited on certain days near the temple of 
 Thefeus ; the company holding hands and moving round the 
 muficians, the leader footing and capering until he is tired, 
 when another takes his place. They have alfo choral dances. 
 I was prefent at a very laborious fingle dance of the mimic 
 ipecies, in a field near Sedicui in Afia Minor ; a goat-herd 
 afTuming, to a tune, all the poflures and attitudes of which the 
 human body feemed capable, with a rapidity hardly credible. 
 
 Marriages are commonly announced by loud mufic at the 
 houfe of the bridegroom. A Turk or Greek neither fees nor 
 {peaks to the maiden beforehand, but for an account of her 
 perfon and difpofition relies on his female relations, who have 
 opportunities of feeing her in their vifits and at the bath. The 
 Turk, when terms are adjufled with her family, ratifies the 
 contract before the cadi or judge, and fends her prefents. If 
 he be rich, a band of muficians precedes a train of peafants, 
 who carry each a flieep, lamb, or kid, with the horns gilded, on 
 their fhoulders -, and thefe are followed by fervants with covered 
 flafkets on their heads, containing female ornaments, money, 
 and the like, for her ufe ; and by flaves to attend her. Years 
 often intervene before he requires her to be brought to his 
 home. The flreets through which (he is to pafs are then left 
 free j and fhe is conduded to his houfe, under a large canopy, 
 
 ' Le Roy, p. 22. 
 
 furrounded 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 135 
 
 furrounded by a multitude of women, all wrapped in white, 
 with their faces muffled. If a Turk finds a pair of papouches 
 or flippers at the door of his haram, it is a lign that a flranger 
 is within, and he modeftly retires. That apartment is even a 
 fandtuary for females flying from the oflicers of jufl:ice. 
 
 A PAPAS or priefl: reads a fervice at the Greek weddings, 
 the two perfons flianding and holding each a wax-taper lighted. 
 A ring and gilded wreath or crown is ufedj and, at the end of 
 the ceremony, a little boy or girl, as previoufly agreed on, is 
 led to the bride, and kifles her hand. She is then as it were 
 enthroned in a chair, and the huflDand remains at a refpedtful 
 difl:ance, with his hands croflTed, filent and looking at her; 
 until the women enter and take her away, when the men 
 caroufe in a feparate apartment. Her face and hands are groflly 
 daubed over with paint ; and one, which I faw, had her fore- 
 head and cheeks bedecked with leaf-gold. 
 
 The Albanians convey the bride to the houfe of her hufband 
 in proceflion, on horfeback, with a child aftride behind her, a 
 loofe veil or canopy concealing her head and face, her fingers 
 laden with fllver rings, and her hands painted red and blue in 
 flreaks. Their drefs is a red jacket handfomely embroidered, 
 with a coloured Turban. I was prefent at one of their enter- 
 tainments, which confifl:ed of a great variety of diflies, chiefly 
 pafliry, ranged under a long low arbour made with boughs ; the 
 company fitting on the ground. When the bride is to be 
 removed to a place at a difl:ance, fome women dance before her 
 to the end of the town. 
 
 The wife of a Turk, who lived near us, dying, we were 
 alarmed on a fudden with a terrible fliriek of women and with 
 the loud expoftulations of the huflsand. She was carried to the 
 grave at day-break. The Greeks bury in their churches, on a 
 bier. The bones, when room is wanting, are waflied with 
 wine in the prefence of the nearefl; male relation, and then 
 
 removed. 
 
136 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 removed. I was at a funeral entertainment provided by one of 
 the archons, whofe daughter had been recently interred. The 
 procefTion fet out from his houfe, before fun-rife, headed by a 
 papas or prieft and fome deacons, with lighted candles ; the 
 women, who were left behind, fcreaming and howling. One 
 man bore a large wax-taper painted with flowers and with the 
 portrait of the deceafed in her ufual attire, and hung round with 
 a handkerchief of her embroidering, in gathers. Two followed, 
 carrying on their heads each a great dilh of parboiled wheat ; 
 the furface, blanched almonds difpofed in the figure of a dove, 
 with gilding and a border of raifins and pomgranate-kernels. 
 Thefe, on our arrival at the church, were depofited over the 
 body. The matins ended with a fervice appropriated to this 
 ceremony, and read by the priefl near the fpot. The diflies 
 were then brought round, and each perfon in his place took a 
 portion, and was afterwards helped in turn to a fmall glafs of 
 white brandy called rakl or of wine. The wax-taper, with the 
 handkerchief, was fufpended from the ceiling, as a memorial of 
 the girl reprefented on it ; and fome peraus or filver pennies 
 were diftributed to the poor, who attended. 
 
 The Turks are a people never yet illuminated by fcience. 
 They are more ignorant than can eafily be conceived. Athens 
 now claims no pre-eminence in learning. The leifure of the 
 Greeks is chiefly employed in reading legendary flories of their 
 faints tranflated into the vulgar tongue. This and their nation 
 they flyle the Roman. It has a clofe affinity with the antient 
 language, which they call the Hellenic ; but the grammar and 
 fyntax are much corrupted. They fpeak rapidly, and curtail 
 many of their words, which are farther depraved by incorredl 
 fpelling. Their pronunciation differs widely from the Englifh. 
 They have no knowlege of the old quantity of fyllables, but 
 adhere to the accents, and compofe verfes in rhyme with great 
 facility. I enquired for manufcripts, and was told of fome 
 belonging to the monaftery of St. Cyriani on mount Hymettus. 
 Thefe were fhown me, with feveral books printed by Aldus, 
 
 negligently 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE, 137 
 
 negligently fcattered on the floor in a loft at Athens, where the 
 hegumenos or abbot refided. I wifhed to purchafe the manu- 
 fcripts, but the confent of the archbifliop and of fome of his 
 brethen was neceffary j and unfortunately the former, who had 
 been forced to fly, was not re-infl;ated in his fee before we left 
 the place. 
 
 Credulity and fuperfl:ition prevail at Athens and all over 
 the Eafl;. The traveller may ftill hear of Medeas, women 
 pofl*efled of magic powers, and expert in various modes of in- 
 cantation. Amulets or charms are commonly worn to repel any 
 malignant influence. Children are feen with croffes or thin flat 
 bits of gold, called phylafteries, hanging about their necks or 
 on their foreheads. The Turks infcribe words from the Koran. 
 The Greeks confide in holy water, which is fprinkled on their 
 houfes yearly by a priefl:, to purify them and to drive away 
 any daemon, who may have obtained entrance. The infides of 
 feveral of their churches are covered with reprefentations of the 
 exploits of their faints, painted on the walls ; extravagant, ridi- 
 culous, and abfurd beyond imagination. The old Athenian 
 had a multitude of deities, but relied chiefly on Minerva ; the 
 modern has a fimilar troop headed by his favourite Panagia. 
 He liftens with devout humility to fanciful tales of nightly 
 vifions, and of miracles vouchfafed on the mofl: trivial occa- 
 fions. The report is propagated, and if, on examination, the 
 forgery be deteded on the fpot, the remoter devotee continues 
 in his conviction, and exults in the contemplation of the Iblid 
 bafis, on which he conceives his faith to be founded. In the 
 firll year of our refidence in the Levant, a rumour was current, 
 that a crofs of fhining light had been feen at Conftantinople 
 pendant in the air over the grand mofque once a church dedi- 
 cated to St. Sophia ; and that the Turks were in confl:ernation 
 at the prodigy, and had endeavoured in vain to difllpate the 
 vapour. The flgn was interpreted to portend the exaltation of 
 the Chrifliians above the Mahometans ; and this many furmifed 
 was fpeedily to be effected ; difgufl: and jealoufy then fubfifl:- 
 
 T ing 
 
138 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 ing between the Ruffians and the Porte, and the Georgians con- 
 tending with fuccefs againft tlie Turkifli armies. By fuch arts 
 as thefe are the wretched Greeks prefcrved from defpondency, 
 roufed to expectation, and confoled beneath the yoke of bondage. 
 The traveller, who is verfed in antiquity, may be agreeably and 
 ufefully employed in fi:udying the people of Athens* 
 
 CHAP. XXIX. 
 
 We continue at Athens — Account of Lombard! — I'he archbiJJ:op 
 forced to fy — Dijirefs from want of corn — Intrigues of Iaom~ 
 bardi. 
 
 OUR flay at Athens was prolonged by unforefeen obflacles, 
 which were to be furmounted, as they arofe, before our bufinefs 
 could be completed. Some buildings required ladders fo long 
 and flrong, it was difficult to procure fit materials, or even a 
 workman capable of making them. Several figures could be 
 drawn only from a particular terrace or the window of a houfe, 
 and a churlifh or rapacious owner was to be fatisfied. The 
 Ramazan or Lent of the Turks, and the Bairam or holidays, 
 interfered. We encountered many a vexatious delay, and our 
 refidence became irkfome as well from the continual apprehen- 
 fion of fome untoward accident or enfnaring treachery, as from 
 our deteftation of Lombardi, who haunted our houfe, and, by 
 his hateful prefence and by difcourfe, which was impure, in- 
 delicate, and impious in the higheft degree, polluted and 
 poifoned every enjoyment. 
 
 Lombardi was faid to have been a prieft, and to have rob- 
 bed the altars of the church. He had fled from his country, it 
 was certain, to avoid the punifhment of fome crime of a moft 
 atrocious nature. He was acquainted with the Latin language, 
 
 had 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 139 
 
 had fome knowlege of medicine, and had lived with feveral 
 Baflias and great Turkifh officers as their phyfician. He had 
 fignalized his courage and condudl in dangerous expeditions 
 againft banditti and infurgents; which fervices had been re- 
 warded with money, horles, and garments lined with fkins. 
 He pofTefled uncommon addrefs, eloquence, profligacy, hypo- 
 crify. He had been a pretended profelyte to the Greek commu- 
 nion, and had written a book in Italian, entitled ** 'Truth the 
 ** J^^S^' ^y Father Bentzoni, a yefuit and Convert to the true 
 *' Oriental Church ;" of which a tranflation into the vulgar 
 Greek, with ludicrous cuts, was printed at Johannina, a city of 
 Epirus, and difperfed over Turkey. The malignancy of this 
 lampoon on Chriftianity was fo concealed, that for fome time 
 the author was reputed a champion for the pure faith of the 
 Greeks. He had alfo compofed a long and bitter invcdtive 
 againft an archbi(hop of LarifTa in Theflaly. He had been im- 
 prifoned at Athens, and had obtained his releafe with difficulty, 
 by tears, intreaties, and the interpofition of the Turks. This 
 ufage, however deferved, had made him outrageous, and revenge 
 was his higheft gratification. He had employed the moft un- 
 juftifiable means to compafs the downfall, and even the deaths, 
 of his principal enemies. He was recently returned from Con- 
 ftantinople, and boafted, that, by his intrigues there, he had 
 levelled fome proud archons at Athens, who had lately hoifted 
 flags as confuls to European powers; a privilege from which the 
 fubjedls of the Porte were excluded by an edidl, which had been 
 enforced during our refidence at Smyrna. He talked unconcern- 
 edly of the death of his elder and favourite fon, whom he had taken 
 with him, and fent home in a veflel, in which the plague after- 
 wards appeared. The young man fickened in the Pirseus, and 
 was removed to a monaftery ; and a another pafTenger dying of it 
 fuddenly was thrown into a well by the fliore, with a large 
 ftone to cover the body. Before our departure, he formally 
 repudiated his wife, who was an Athenian; and renounced her 
 children, a fon and two daughters, who refufed to relinquifh 
 Chriftianity. The Turks were offended at his want of natural 
 
 T 2 affection, 
 
J40 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 afFe<flion, and pleaded in their behalf. He had efpoufed a 
 young Albanian in the prefence of the Cadi or Turkifli Judge, 
 and now co-habited with her; but a plurality of wives ranked 
 among the leafl: criminal of his various enormities. 
 
 A GENERAL difquict of the people likewife contributed to 
 render our fituation not agreeable. Some exadions of the arch- 
 bifliop, who was eager to pay the money borrowed for the 
 purchafe of his fee, made him unpopular. He had incurred 
 alfo the difpleafure of the vaiwode, and an open quarrel enfued 
 on his applying for leave to rebuild or repair a church, and re- 
 monftrating that the fum demanded was unreafonable. The 
 vaiwode lifted his pipe to ftrike him, and, in their altercation, 
 averred he was neither deacon, prieft, or bifliop. An explanation 
 was afked, when he replied with a proverb, (r«^S-«i^(^ «t« ycw- 
 ba.^^ The ajs is akvays an afs. The difference was compro- 
 mifed, but foon broke out again. The Greek clergy joined the 
 vaiwode, and the archbifhop was expelled Athens.. 
 
 The fcarcity of corn increafed as winter advanced, until the 
 diftrefs of the people was fo great, that an infurredion was 
 apprehended daily, and Achmet Aga, to appeafe the clamour, 
 opened his granaries. Yet the vaiwode, to raife money for the 
 purchafe of his pofl for the enfuing year, fold a large portion of 
 the future grain by contrail to M'. Keyrac, a French mer- 
 chant, who refided at Nauplia or Napoli in the Morea. The 
 bafha of Negropont would have interfered, but the Athenians 
 claim immunity from his jurifdidion. The officers, whom he 
 commiffioned to enquire into the abufe, could fcarcely procure a 
 lodging on their arrival, and they foon left the town. Achmet 
 Aga refufed them admittance at his houfe, from a diflike of 
 their errand ; and the Greeks pleaded a bardf or charter exempt- 
 ing them from fuch burdens. Some Turks at another time had 
 required Ifofime, who was epitropos or curator, to provide for 
 them a conac or place of refrefhment, but he would not comply ; 
 and, on their threatening to piilol him or to cut off his head 
 
 with 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 141 
 
 with their fabres, had bared his breaft and extended his 
 neck, declaring, the privilege fhould not be loft by want of 
 courage in him to preferve it. The jealoufy of the Athenians 
 fruftrated the purpofe of the bafha, but their murmuring did 
 not ceafe. The opprefTion and extortion of the vaiwode were 
 complained of as unprecedented. 
 
 LoMBARDi fomented the public difcord, working in private 
 like a mole underground. His zeal in perfecuting the archbi- 
 fhop gave him influence with his enemies and with the vaiwode. 
 He fpirited up a mob to fhout, Barabbas, Barabbasy on his 
 coming from a church, in which the clergy had been aflembled; 
 and he ufed every method, which the moft diabolical malice 
 could fuggeft, to blacken his charadter. He laboured alfo to 
 accomplifli the ruin of other perfons, at whom he had taken 
 oftence. One of thefe was a native of Corfu, a praditioner 
 in phyfic, countenanced by M'. Keyrac -, whofe agent, a 
 Frenchman, urged the vaiwode to do him no injury, and at laft 
 obtained a promife, which was ratified by his putting his hand 
 en the head of his fon, and faying. So may Ifmael live.- 
 
 CHAP. XXX. 
 
 'Journey to mount Hymettus — An antient well — Vejliges of Ah" 
 pece — Arrive at Jbme bee-Jiandi — Alarmed in the night — - 
 
 T^urkijli rigour — A well — T^he Jhaft of a mine — Dinner 
 
 At Dragoiiiji — Afpeckled owl — I'he monajlery of St. Cyriani, 
 
 WHILE we refided at the French convent, we were in- 
 formed of certain fubterraneous wonders faid to exift in the 
 bowels of mount Hymettus. The report of an eye-witnefs, 
 though of a nature not to be entirely credited, feemed to meric 
 fome attention. Our fervants provided ropes, wax-tapers, and: 
 
 other: 
 
142 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 other neceflaries ; and we fet out on the fifth of Odtober, after 
 the heat of noon, accompanied by Lombardi. We had alfo 
 fome dogs and falcons belonging to the vaiwode. 
 
 We croffed the Iliffus and pafTed by the fite of the Lyceum. 
 After a {hort ride with the greater Hymettus on our left, the 
 road winding toward the fea, we came near a village called Dra- 
 gonifi, confifting of a ruined tower and a very few houfes, on a 
 fmall eminence in the plain. We alighted beneath a ihady tree 
 by an antient well fliaped like a parallellogram, and divided in 
 the middle by five tranfverfe marble beams, one above another. 
 Here a leather bucket was procured, a fire kindled, and coffee 
 made. 
 
 Going on, we foon came to a fpot over-run with buflies, 
 among which are feveral wells moftly choked with foil and 
 rubbilh. Many of the demi or antient boroughs were unim- 
 portant places, and, from their want of charafter, can never be 
 afcertained. Some too of more confequence are almoft equally 
 unknown, the information concerning them not being fuffici- 
 ently explicit. This is one of the few to which a name may be 
 afligned. On the fide of Athens next the Heracleum and 
 Cynofarges was Alopece, the place to which Socrates belonged. 
 A farm at Alopece is on record as only eleven or twelve ftadia, 
 about a mile and a half, from the city-wall. 
 
 We now turned to the left, and entered the gap between 
 the greater and lefTer Hymettus. Here, on our fpringing a 
 partridge, the Falconer unhooded and let his hawk fly, but the 
 bird, inftead of purfuing his quarry, foared high up in the air, 
 making toward Athens ; the Greek his keeper looking at and 
 running after him, until he funk again and was recovered. We 
 penetrated into the receffes of the mountain, and about funfet 
 halted by fome bee-ftands, and fupped on the provifions we had 
 brought from Athens. 
 
 Night 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 143 
 
 Night approaching, we lay down to fleep among the 
 thickets, each on a fmall carpet, and wrapped in a pellice or gar- 
 ment lined with fkins y the whole company forming a circle 
 round our horfes and other animals, which were faftened to the 
 bufhes. About midnight we were diflurbed by a fudden kick- 
 ing and confufion among the horfes, which was followed with 
 a cry of lycos lycos, a wolf, a wolf. In an inftant all were up, 
 with guns ready to fire, but the moon fhining, the occafion of 
 our alarm was prefently difcovered to be an afs, which from love 
 of fociety, hope of food, or fome other motive, had been 
 induced to intrude on us, and now retired precipitately, bray- 
 ing. 
 
 At the dawn of day we afcended an acclivity of the rrioun- 
 tain, the track rough and narrow, and on the margin of a 
 water-courfe ; leaving our baggage behind us, heaped in a 
 thicket. We were told it was fecure amid thefe uninhabited 
 folitudes, though unguarded ; for, fuch is the rigour of the 
 Turkilh polity, if a pilferer be not detedled, the vaiwode on 
 complaint levies far more than the value of what is loft on the 
 diftridl; rejoicing in the opportunity of uniting his private gain 
 with public juftice and the fatisfa(ftion of the party defrauded. 
 
 We were now brought by the Greek, our guide, to a circu- 
 lar well funk in the rock many fathom deep, the mouth above 
 forty feet wide. This was the place to be examined. A ftout 
 piece of wood was cut, and fixed fo as to proje<ft over the brim. 
 The Greek then got aftride a ftick tied to a rope, by which he 
 held; another rope was faftened about his body; and he was 
 let gently down to the bottom. Our Swifs was lowered next in 
 like manner, and both difappeared ; two narrow pafi'ages in the 
 well leading, in oppofite directions, under the mountain. The 
 Swifs fired a piftol, but the report did not reach us. On their 
 return, they conveyed up to us, by a rope, fome fpecimens of 
 the concretions formed on the roof and fides, as ufual in caverns. 
 
 The-- 
 
144 
 
 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 The fliape, which a portion of this fubftance had chanced to 
 alTume, proved the occafion of our journey. The Greek 
 had received from it a lively idea of a human figure, and, filled 
 with admiration, had reprefented it as the image of a caloyer or 
 monk with a venerable beard and of a ftriking afpedl. We 
 re-hoifted our two adventurers, and mounting our horfes went 
 back to our baggage by the way we came. 
 
 The mountains on this fide of Athens were once noted for 
 filver. The mines were private property, and were worked for 
 tlie benefit of individuals, to the time of Themiftocles. By his 
 advice, the republic took pofiTeflion of them, and applied the 
 profits to the building of triremes to be employed in the war 
 with JEgim. Demetrius the Phalerean faid, that the Athenians 
 laboured on them as eagerly as if they hoped to dig up Plutus 
 himfelf, the god of riches. The produce, which at firft was 
 plentiful, failing, they re-melted the old Icum and drofs, and 
 found ore, which, from want of fkill, had not been extracted. 
 The well, to which we were condudled, was probably a fhaft. 
 The honey of Attica efteemed mofl exquifite was taken near 
 the mines. 
 
 On our arrival at the thicket where our baggage lay, a 
 couple of Greeks climbed the mountain to fearch for wild 
 honey ; and our fervants began to prepare dinner, firiking fire, 
 and hewing down buflies with their fabres. The fold of Muf- 
 tapha Bey, a friendly Turk of Athens, fupplied us with a iheep 
 fed on the fragrant herbage of Hymcttus, They embowelled 
 the carcafe, and fixed it whole and warm on a wooden fpit j 
 which was turned by one of them fitting on the ground. They 
 cut in pieces the heart, liver, and the like, and mingled them 
 on a fkewer, to be drelTed on the coals. Some boughs of green 
 maftic ferved us at once for tablecloth and difh. We fell 
 to with knives or fingers, for the latter are principally ufed ; 
 and a Greek, kneeling by us, circulated wine, pouring it 
 
 into 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 145 
 
 into a fhell. Our men feafted in their turn, and made merry, 
 until the heat of noon overpowered them. 
 
 After fleeping, feme in a fhallow watercourfe beneath the 
 fcanty {hade under which we had dined, and fome among 
 the thickets at a diftance, we mounted and returned back to 
 Dragonifi, where a hofpitable Albanian received us, fweeping 
 the ground, and fpreading a mat for us, before the door of his 
 houfb. We fupped on fowls, cheefe, falted olives, eggs, and 
 fuch articles as could be procured. The evening was con- 
 cluded with wild finging and ruftic dancing. We pafTed the 
 night round a fire, having no mountain as before to (helter us, 
 and the air getting cold. 
 
 In the morning the falconer, after placing a piece of raw 
 meat in a tree at a diftance, unhooded and difmiffed a hawk» 
 which immediately flew toward it ; but, ftooping mid-way, 
 feized a fmall fpeckled owl lurking among the few green tufts 
 fcattered on the furface of the foil. The ravenous bird was 
 eafily deceived by a bit of flefli, which the falconer fubftituted, 
 as uiual, in the room of his prey, and loofed the owl alive from 
 his talons. We likewife faw a partridge chafed, taken on the 
 wing, and carried into a thicket. 
 
 The purple hills of Hymettus were the fcene of the famous 
 ftory of Cephalus and Procris '. The fatal miftake of the 
 hulband was faid to have happened among fome thickets near a 
 facred fpring or fountain. This feems the fpot called Pera, 
 where was a temple of Venus, and a water, which was believed 
 to conduce to pregnancy and to an eafy delivery. The fame, it is 
 probable, is now occupied by the monaftery of Cyriani. In 
 many inftances the temple or its fite, with the confecrated 
 portion, have changed their owners, and the deity been difpof- 
 feffcd by the faint. The convent is an old irregular building 
 
 * Ovid, de Arte Amandi, 1. 3. v. 687. 
 
 U on 
 
146 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 on the fide of the greater Hymettus, in view from Athens, 
 encompafled by a wall with battlements, and entered by a low 
 iron door. The Greek women repair to it at particular feafons, 
 and near it is a fountain much extolled for its virtues. The 
 papas or prieft affirmed, that a dove is feen to fly down from 
 heaven to drink of it yearly, at the feafl of Pentecoft. 1 
 afcended to the top of the mountain, where I enjoyed a fine 
 profpedt of the country and of the illands in the iEgcan fea^ 
 near the coafl of Attica. 
 
 CHAP. XXXI. 
 
 loivns betiveen Phalerum and Sunium — Capes and ijlands — 
 Barrows by Alopece — Vejliges of lExone and Anagyrus — 
 'Entertained by a Greek Abbot — A Paneum or facred cave — 
 Whelers rout from Sunium to Athens — Remarks. 
 
 THE towns on the coafi:, going from Phalerum toward 
 Sunium, were Alimus, ^Exone, Alx of iExone, Anagyrus, 
 Thorae, Lampra, ^gilia, Anaphlyftus, Azenia. Alimus was 
 at the fame difl:ance as Phalerum from Athens, and had a tem- 
 ple of Ceres and Proferpine. Lampra was the place to which 
 Cranaus the fuccefTor of Cecrops fled from Amphidlyon. His 
 monument remained in the time of Paufanias, above fixteen 
 hundred years after his death, and, if a barrow, is perhaps ftill 
 extant. 
 
 The long promontory, the firft after iExone, was named 
 Zofter, becaufe, it was faid, Latona had loofed her zone there 
 in her way to Delos, whither flie was conducted by Minerva. 
 On the fhore was an altar. After Thorae was Aftiypalcea. Before 
 one of the capes was the ifland Phauraj before the other, 
 Eleufa J and oppofite to /Exone, Hydrufa. Toward Anaphlyf- 
 
 tus 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 147 
 
 tus * was a Paneum or cave of Pan, and the temple of Venus 
 Colias. The weft wind fcattered the wrecks of the Perfian fleet, 
 after the battle of Salamis, along the fhore as far as Colias. 
 Before thefe places lay Belbina, at no great diftance, and the 
 fofle of Patroclus, but moft of the iflands were defert. Pau- 
 fanias mentions cape Colias, with the image of Venus, as twenty 
 ftadia or two miles and a half from Phalerum. Colias was 
 famous for earthen ware, tinged with vermilion. 
 
 Some information, received foon after our return from 
 mount Hymettus, induced us to go in the following month to 
 Vary, a metochi or farm belonging to a Greek monaftery at 
 Athens, on the fea-coaft, and diftant about four hours. The 
 road led us, as before, to the veftiges of Alopece, beyond 
 which we faw feveral fmall barrows, the foil poor and ftony. 
 Their origin may be deduced from early hiftory. The Lacedae- 
 monians fent an army under Anchimolius to free Athens from 
 the tyranny of the fons of Pififtratus. He landed at Phalerum, 
 encamped, was attacked, and killed with many of his men. 
 Their graves or barrows, fays Herodotus, are by Alopece*. 
 
 O N our approach to the fhore, fome veftiges occurred, it is 
 likely, of ^xone. We then turned, and travelled toward 
 Sunium, through a gap in mount Hymettus, which running 
 out forms the promontory once called Zofter. Within the gap, 
 near the end, we came to the fite of a conliderable town, fome 
 terrace walls of the fpecies called Incertum remaining. Beyond 
 thefe is a church. We found fome fragments of infcriptions 
 fixed in the wall ; and one of my companions afterwards copied 
 a fepulchral marble recording a perfon of Anagyrus, which, it 
 is probable, was the name of the place. The terrace perhaps 
 was the fite of the temple of the mother of the gods. 
 
 The convent ftands on a knoll above the fea, with Lampra, 
 the promontories Sunium and Scyllaeum, and the fofte of Patro- 
 
 ' ^ JV Ay«i^At/?j» — Strabo p. 393. There was a temple of Ceres. 
 ' 1. V. c. 6. Pififtratus died in the year before Chrift, 528. 
 
 U 2 cluS 
 
148 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 clus, Belbina, and other iflands, in view. We found there the 
 hegumenos or abbot, who was come from Athens to receive us, 
 and two or three caloyers or monks, who manage the farm. 
 We were entertained with boiled fowls, olives, cheefe, and the 
 like fare. The fky, as ufual, was our canopy ; and after fun- 
 fet, we lay down to fleep, fome under a fhed, fome in the 
 court, and one of my companions in a tree, where a man had 
 watched the Aloni or corn-floor, which was clofe by, during 
 the harveft. 
 
 We afcended early in the morning to a cave or grotto, which 
 was the objedl of our journey, diftant about three quarters of 
 an hour, inland, in the mountain. This, which appears to be the 
 Paneum mentioned by Strabo, will be the fubjeil of the follow- 
 ing chapter. It affords fhelter to the goatherds in winter, and 
 is frequented at all feafons for water by thofe who have their 
 occupation on the mountain. Our men made a fire in it to 
 purify the air, and we tarried all day, dining again on a fheep 
 roafled whole. 
 
 An abftradl of the journey of Sir George Wheler from 
 Sunium to Athens will illuflrate this portion of the geography 
 of Attica. He dired:ed his courfe along the fliore of the 
 Saronic gulf and pafTed the night with fome fhepherds near 
 Metropis a town on a hill. Ten or twelve miles farther on, he 
 came to ruins on a rock, near a bay. Thefe were called Ennea- 
 pyrgae, the Nine Towers. From Lampra, three or four miles 
 more inland, he travelled north-weftward in a cultivated plain 
 to a very few houfes called Fillia. He then turned more north- 
 weflward into the way to Athens, and entered between two 
 ridges of mount Hymettus, one called Lampra-vouni, the other 
 Telo-vouni. This defcended with a fharp point into the fea, 
 making a promontory named Halikes, before which are four 
 fmall iflands or rocks called Cambonifia, the Button IJlands. He 
 then arrived in the plain of Athens. 
 
 Of thefe places, Metropis may have been, as he fuppofes, 
 Azenia. Enneapyrgje was Anaphlyflus. The next village was 
 
 upper 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 149 
 
 upper Lampra j and Fillia perhaps was that of which the 
 people were once called Philaidae. Halikes, with the Cam- 
 bohifia, was Zofter with the iflets about it. Lampra-vouni was^ 
 on his left hand. He appears to have quitted the coaft, and to 
 have entered the plain of Athens through the gap dividing the 
 greater from the leffer Hymettus. 
 
 CHAP. XXXII. 
 
 DiJiinSl provinces of the heathen gods — T'heir charaSlers and places 
 of worjlnp — A Paneum or Nymphcewny with infcriptions — - 
 Of Archidamus and the age when he lived— Of the Nymphs-— 
 Of Nympholepfy — Of facred caves — Of a cave in Ithaca — 
 In Paphlagonia — Of the two entrances "'-'The offerings — 
 Defgn of the cave. 
 
 THE- pious Athenian was antiently furnifhed with patron- 
 gods for every occupation, fituation, and purfuit. He who 
 ventured to fea firft propitiated Neptune, Amphitrite, and the 
 Nereids. The artift facrificed to Minerva and Vulcan ; the 
 ftudent to the Mufes, Apollo their leader. Memory, and 
 Mercury ; the lover to Venus and Cupid, Perfuafion, and the 
 Graces ; the hufbandman to Ceres and her fon Bacchus j and 
 the fportfman to Diana the huntrefs, Apollo, Pan, the Nymphs, 
 and the deities of the mountains. 
 
 The charadlers of the gods of Greece were as diftindt as 
 the provinces over which they were fuppofed to prefide. 
 Apollo, with the Mufes about him, was a moft accompliflied 
 deity; Pan a very ruftic. Some were of a focial turn and gods 
 of pleafure j wh le others preferred retirement, and lived fequef- 
 tered in the country. The city Bacchus was prefent in the 
 theatres ; the Nymphs were difcovered by fprings and foun- 
 tains. 
 
150 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 tains. Their offerings alfo had commonly a relation to their 
 nature, office, and ideal fuperintendency. Their altars differed 
 in height, {hape, or ornaments. The fubterraneous gods had 
 their trenches; the terreffrial and the Heroes their hearths. The 
 tenants of Olympus were worfliipped in temples ; the Nymphs 
 with Pan and the rural clafs in caves. -- 
 
 The Paneum or Nymphacum by Vary is a fingular curiofity, 
 of a fpecies, it is apprehended, not defcribed by any traveller. 
 It is found in the mountain-fide, near a brow. You defcend 
 through a fmall mouth ; the forked trunk of a tree, with 
 branches faflened acrofs, ferving as a ladder. At the landing- 
 place is a Greek infcription very difficult to be read. It is cut 
 on the rock firll: fmoothed, and informs us, that Archidamus of 
 Pherae made the cave for the Nymphs, by whom he was pof- 
 Jejfed. Oppofite is a fmall niche or cavity ; with fome letters, 
 part of a word, fignifying that the offering for fruits, perhaps 
 a fmall piece of money, was to be placed there. From the 
 landing-place two ways lead into the cavern. Going down by 
 the narrow flairs cut in the rock, on the left hand is infcribed in 
 very antient charadlers, " Archidamus the Pherasan." When 
 you are down and face the flairs, at the extremity on the right 
 hand is an ithyphallus, the fymbol of Bacchus -, and near it is 
 Ifis, the Egyptian Ceres. The Athenians had early an inter- 
 courfe with Egypt, and fome writers have afferted were origi- 
 nally a colony from that country. Under fmall niches, in two 
 places, is infcribed, *' Of Pan." On the other fide of the 
 flairs are two more niches, and beneath each, " Of Apollo. 
 *• Offer." Beyond thefe is a very rude figure of the fculptor 
 reprefented with his tools, as working, and by it his name, 
 Archidamus, twice repeated, the letters irregular and badly 
 ctit. On removing fome mould we difcovered that his feet are 
 both turned inward. Near the image of Ifis lay a flone, with 
 two fides infcribed, once fet up fo that both might be vifible. 
 From one I copied <' Archidamus the Phersean and Cholliden- 
 ** fian made this dwelling for the Nymphs ;" from the other, 
 
 '♦ Archidamus 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 151 
 
 <* Archldamus the Pherasan planted the garden for the Nymphs." 
 The flairs, which are continued along by the fide of the rock 
 below the figure of Archldamus, are covered with foil formed 
 by leaves or waflied in by rain from above j and the defcent to 
 the lower grotto, to which they led, is become fteep and 
 llippery. That is entered by a narrow paffage left in the parti- 
 tion, which has been rendered pidturefque by petrifactions. It 
 is of a circular form, the fides adorned with fantaflic incrufta- 
 tion, and the roof with fparry icicles. Of thefe feveral 
 are growing up, pointed, from beneath ; and fome have al- 
 ready met and united with thofe pendant from above. At the 
 bottom is a well of very clear and cold water. On the left 
 hand, going up again, near the landing-place, is a fquare 
 horizontal cavity ; and farther on is an infcription on the rough 
 rock, not legible. The cavity probably contained the garden 
 of the Nymphs before mentioned, confiding of a little foil fet 
 with fuch herbs and flowers as were reputed grateful to them. 
 If a fmall trench be deemed unworthy of the appellation, it 
 may be noted, that gardens were planted for Adonis not equal 
 in magnitude even to this plat, each being a fhell or pot with, 
 earth, in which certain vegetables thrived awhile and then 
 withered. Such were the flower-gardens in the hall called by 
 his name in the palace of Domitian at Rome. 
 
 Arch ID AMU s was follicitous, as may be inferred from his 
 figure, to tranfmit a knowlege of his perfon to future ages. 
 He was a native of Pherae, a city of TheiTaly, who had fettled 
 in Attica and was admitted to his freedom in Chollis, one of 
 the borough-towns. The infcriptions, as may be coUeded 
 from the diverfity in the charaders and in their powers, are of 
 different dates. That at the landing-place was added, it is 
 likely, long after his deceafe, as a memorial of his labour and 
 its caufe ; which was nympholepfy. From thofe which appear 
 to be contemporary with the fculptor it may be argued that he 
 lived when the Attic or Cadmean and Palamedean alphabet, 
 confifting of fixteen letters, was in ufe ; or before the Atheni- 
 ans 
 
152 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 ans were prevailed on ' to adopt the Ionic alphabet, In which 
 the number was twenty-four. The figure of Archidamus, fo 
 unfliapely and unfightly, will coincide with a period, when 
 dejign was in its infancy and not commonly profefTed. It is 
 certainly among the oldefl: fpecimens extant of the beginnings 
 of the art ; furnifhing an example of the rough out-line and 
 proportionlefs fketch, from which it gradually rofe to corredt- 
 nefs, precifion, and fublime expreflion ; animating marble, and 
 giving to ftatues a perfection of form unequalled by nature, and 
 a dignity of afpedt fuperior to human. 
 
 The Nymphs were fuppofed to enjoy longevity, but not to 
 be immortal. They were believed to delight in fprings and 
 fountains. They are defcribed as fleeplefs, and as dreaded by 
 the country people. They were fufceptible of paffion. The 
 Argonauts, it is related, landing on the fhore of the Propontis 
 to dine in their way to Choices, fent Hylas, a boy, for water, 
 who difcovered a lonely fountain, in which the nymphs Eunica, 
 Malis, and Nycheia were preparing to dance ; and thefe, feeing 
 him, were enamoured and feizing him by the hand, as he was 
 filling his vafe, pulled him in. The deities, their co-partners 
 in the cave, are fuch as prefided with them over rural and paf- 
 toral affairs. If Priapus be fubftituted in the place of Bacchus, 
 he alfo was honoured where goats and fheep fed and where 
 bee-hives flood. 
 
 The old Athenians were ever ready to cry out, a god ! or 
 a goddefs ! The tyrant Pififtratus entered the city in a chariot 
 with a tall woman dreffed in armour to refemble Minerva, and 
 regained the Acropolis, which he had been forced to abandon, 
 by this ftratagem ; the people worshipping and believing her to 
 be the deity, whom fhe reprefented. The Nymphs, it was the 
 popular perfuafion, occafionally appeared j and nympholepfy is 
 charadterized as a frenzy, which arofe from having beheld 
 
 » In the fourth year of Olympiad xciv j or, before Chrift 399 years. 
 
 them. 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 153 
 
 them. Superftition difpofed the mind to adopt delufion for 
 reahty, and gave to a fancied vilion the efficacy of full convic- 
 tion. The foundation was perhaps no more than an indiredl, 
 partial, or obfcure view of fome harmlefs girl, which had ap- 
 proached the fountain on a like errand with Hylas, or was re- 
 tiring after flie had filled her earthen pitcher. 
 
 Among the facred caves on record, one on mount Ida in 
 Crete was the property of Jupiter, and one by Lebadea in 
 Boeotia of Trophonius. Both thefe were oracular, and the 
 latter bore fome refemblance to that we have defcribed. It was 
 formed by art, and the mouth furrounded with a wall. The 
 defcent to the landing-place was by a light and narrow ladder, 
 occafionally applied and removed. It was fituated on a moun- 
 tain above a grove ; and they related, that a fwarm of bees 
 conducted the perfon by whom it was firft difcovered. But 
 the common owners of caves were the Nymphs, and thefe 
 were fometimes local. On Cithaeron in Bceotia, many of the 
 inhabitants were pojfejfed by Nymphs called Sphragitides, 
 whofe cave, once alfo oracular, was on a fummit of the moun- 
 tain. Their dwellings had generally a well or fpring of water ; 
 the former often a colledtion of moifture condenfed or ex- 
 fuding from the roof and fides ; and this, in many inftances, 
 being pregnant with ftony particles, concreted, and marked its 
 paffage by incruftation, the ground-work in all ages and coun- 
 tries of idle tales framed or adopted by fuperflitious and credu- 
 lous people '. 
 
 I Intus aquae dulces, vivoque fedilia faxo, 
 Nympharumque domus. Virg. 
 See Theocritus t, v. 136, and Strabo, p. 343. Philoftratus, p. 411, men- 
 tions a Nymphseum by the fea near Puteoli, in which was a well, with a rim of 
 white ftone. The interpreter has miftranflated the paffage. The author, p. 764, 
 defcribes likewife a pidture, in which a cave of Achelous and the Nymphs was 
 reprefented, he obferves, properly ; the images feeming of bad ftone and workman- 
 fliip, as injured by time, and cut by the young thoughtlefs boys of the herdfmen 
 and (hepherds. 
 
 X The 
 
154 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 The defcrlptlon of a cave of this fpecies in the Odyffey has 
 been underftood as fymbolical, and furniflied, contrary to all 
 natural interpretation, with myftic meaning, by Porphyry, a 
 philofopher, who flouriflied in the third century '. This cave 
 w^as fituated near the head of a port in Ithaca. It was obfcure 
 within, but remarkable for perennial water, and ftone bowls 
 and veffels, bees depofiting honey, and long ftone looms, with 
 nymphs weaving purple garments wonderful to behold. The 
 poet here records real and imaginary refemblances, probably 
 traced and reported by the iflanders, and which perhaps he had 
 likewife feen with admiration. It may be furmifed, that ideal 
 perfonages . and reprefentations were antiently found alfo in the 
 Attic cave. 
 
 A CAVE In Paphlagonia was facred to the Nymphs, who in- 
 habited the mountains about Heraclea. It was long and wide, 
 and pervaded by cold water, clear as chryflal. There alfo were 
 feen bowls of ftone, and nymphs, and their webs, and diltafFs, 
 and curious work, exciting admiration. The poet *, who has 
 defcribed this grotto, deferves not to be regarded as fervilely 
 copying Homer. He may juftly claim to rank as an original 
 topographer. 
 
 The caves of Ithaca and Heraclea had each two entrances, 
 one toward the north, the other toward the fouth. At Ithaca, 
 men defcended only by the northern aperture, the fouthern 
 being accounted holy and the way of the gods. In the fecond 
 cave was alfo a track referved for fuperior Beings, and this is 
 defcribed as both difficult and dangerous, lying on the brink of 
 a deep pit. The fame diftindtion, it is likely, prevailed in the 
 Attic cave. The perfons, who prefided occafionally and were 
 benefited by the religion of the place found perhaps a pafTage 
 appropriated to their ufe both convenient and neceffary, and 
 
 1 See Pope's Odyfley, the notes on v. 124 and v. 134 of the thirteenth book. 
 ^ Q. Smyrnzeus, 1. 6. v. 470. 
 
 obtained 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 155 
 
 obtained an exclufive right by eftablifliing an idea of its 
 fandlity. 
 
 The countryman and fhepherd, as well as the fportfman, 
 has often repaired, it is likely, to this cave, to render the deities 
 propitious by facrificing a flie-goat or lamb, by gifts of 
 cakes or fruit, and by libations of milk, oil, and honey; fimply 
 believing, that this attention was pleafing to them, that they 
 were prefent though unfeen, and partook without diminifhing 
 the offering ; their appetites as well as paffions, caprices, and 
 employments refembling the human. At noon-day the pipe 
 was filent on the mountains, left it might happen to awake Pan, 
 then repofing after the exercife of hunting, tired and peevifh. 
 
 It is related, where druidifm prevailed, the houfes 
 were decked with evergreens in December, that the fylvan 
 Spirits might repair to them, and remain unnipped with froft 
 and cold winds, until a milder feafon had renewed the foliage of 
 their darling abodes. The gods of Greece, at leaft the inferior 
 clafs, were conceived liable to like fufferings. They were 
 capable of diffolving with heat and fliivering with cold. Among 
 the punifhments imprecated on Pan', if he fliould prove 
 unkind, are thefe j that in mid winter he might be expofed on 
 the bleak mountains of Thrace, and during fummer in the 
 torrid regions of iEthiopia. The piety of Archidamus fur- 
 nifhed a retreat for the Nymphs, where they might find 
 fhelter and provilion, if diftreffed ; whether the fun parched up 
 their trees, or Jupiter enthroned in clouds upon the mountain- 
 top feared them with his red lightening and terrible thunder, 
 pouring down a deluge of rain, or brightening the fummits 
 with his fnow. 
 
 « Theocritus, Id. C» 
 
 X 2 CHAP. 
 
156 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 CHAP. XXXIII. 
 
 'Towns on the eajlern coaji of Attica — Of Thoricus — Of Potamus 
 Of Frafia — Of the port of Prafa or port Raphti— the road 
 to it from Athens — ExtraSl from Whekr continued. 
 
 ATTICA has the ^gsan fea on the eaft. The courfe, 
 coafting from Sunium, is to the north, inclining to the 
 •weft. The towns on this fide were Thoricus, Potamus, Prafise, 
 Stiria, Brauron, Alas of Araphen, Myrrhinus, Probalinthus, 
 Marathon, Tricorythus, Rhamnus, and, on the confines of 
 Attica and Boeotia, Oropus. The land at firft lies between two 
 feas, and is narrow. Farther on, it widens. The coaft, to- 
 ward Oropus, was gibbous or rounded like a moon. 
 
 Thoricus was once a place of importance. It was forti- 
 fied in the firft year of the ninety third Olympiad '. Xenophon 
 was of opinion, that the workmen might continue their em- 
 ployment at the filver-mines in time of war, as this fortrefs 
 was near them by the fea on the north, and Anaphlyftus on the 
 fouth ; each diftant from the other only about fixty ftadia or 
 feven miles and a half j but recommended the eminence of 
 Befa, which was mid-way between them, as a proper fpot for a 
 third fortrefs, where all might affemble on an alarm ; though 
 he did not apprehend the mines would be attacked, becaufe the 
 enemy, advancing either from Megara, which city was much, 
 above five hundred ftadia or fixty two miles and a half diftant, 
 or from Thebes, which exceeded fix hundred ftadia or feventy 
 five miles, muft pafs Athens and leave their own country ex- 
 pofed. The failure of the mines was probably followed by the 
 ruin both of Thoricus and Anaphlyftus. Paufanias is filent 
 
 * In the year before Chrift, 406. 
 
 concerning 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 157 
 
 concerning them ; and Mela, who wrote under Claudius Caefar, 
 mentions the former as then but a name ; which, however, is 
 not yet difufed. The fhip, in which Mr. Le Roy failed in 
 1754, was forced into the port by contrary winds. He defcribes 
 it as oppofite to Long IJlajjd, fix miles north-weft of Sunium, 
 and near a large plain furrounded with hills, which on the 
 fouth are overtopped by a mountain ftretching toward the 
 entrance of the gulf. This, he fuppofes, was Laurium. Among 
 the thickets he difcovered fome ruins of a very antient temple. 
 Helene or Long IJlmid extended along the coaft from Thoricus 
 as far as Sunium. 
 
 At Potamus was the monument of Ion, from whom the 
 lonians were named. The Athenians, when they provided a 
 huftjand for a grandaughter of Ariftogiton, who had lived in 
 poverty and obfcurity at Lemnos, gave a farm there as her 
 dowry. 
 
 At Prafiae was a temple of Apollo. The ftaip named 
 Theoris failed from thence annually to Delos with an unknown 
 offering packed in wheat-ftraw and tranfmitted from the Hyper- 
 boreans, a remote . people. The monument of Eryfichthon, 
 who died on that voyage, was (hown there. Some ruins of the 
 town were feen by Sir George Wheler, upon the fliore near the 
 haven, now called port Raphti. 
 
 The port of Prafiae or port Raphti is defcribed as a moft fafe, 
 commodious, and delightful harbour, almoft encompafled with 
 charming vales rifing gradually and terminating in lofty moun- 
 tains \ the flopes covered with pine-trees and verdure. A fharp 
 point of land, running out into the middle, divides the bay j 
 and toward the mouth are two little iflands or rocks. One of 
 thefe, on the right hand failing in, is high and fteep, the fliape 
 exadly conical, the bafe about a mile in circumference. On the 
 fummit is a white marble colofi!al ftatue, the pofture fedent, the 
 head and arms broken off. It is fuppofed to have been twelve 
 
 feet 
 
158 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 feet high, when unmutilated j and is placed on a pedeftal near 
 eight feet high. On the other ifland, which is farther in, is 
 feen a maimed marble ftatue of a female '. Thefe images per- 
 haps reprefented Apollo and Diana, and were placed as fea- 
 marks, or, holding lights, ferved each as a Pharos to aflift veffels 
 in finding the port in the night-time. 
 
 Wheler vifited port Raphti from Athens. The road lay 
 diredtly eaftward. He pafled by the mountain called St. George 
 about a mile, and made toward the end of Hymettus, which 
 he left on the right hand, about four miles from Athens. In 
 about two miles more he faw on his left a village called Agopi, 
 where the plain, which is between Hymettus and the Sunian 
 promontory, begins. He dined at a metochi or farm belonging 
 to the convent of St. Cyrianl, and continuing his journey 
 arrived at the port, which is reckoned eighteen miles from the 
 city. A beautiful image of a marble lion, the body and neck 
 and head entire and three yards long, was feen not many years 
 ago at the door of a church {landing about midway, a mile on 
 the left of the road from the port. The diftant view of Athens 
 on this fide muft prevent the mod infenfible traveller from ap- 
 proaching with indifference. 
 
 Turning from port Raphti a little to the right, and riding 
 about fix miles, Wheler arrived at Marcopoli, a fmall village 
 by ruins of an antient town, it feems, of Potamus. In three 
 hours more he came to a folitary church, by which were olive- 
 trees and the biggefl lentifcus he ever faw, with tears of mafiiic 
 ifTuing from feveral places of the body. He went on an hour 
 and a half, fouthward, to Kerateia, probably Thoricus, which 
 he defcribes as an antient place, with fome remains. It had 
 been deftroyed by Corfairs. In three long hours he reached 
 Sunium, the track very rocky and bad. About midway he 
 pafled over a little mountain, where cinders in abundance lay 
 
 J See Perry's view of the Levant, p. 487 j and Wheler's Travels, p. 447. 
 
 fcattered 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 159 
 
 fcattered up and down. It then afforded fome copper, and he 
 was told that filver was fecretly extradled from the ore. The 
 harbour for boats by the fea-fide was that in which we moored 
 on our firft: arrival in Attica. This coaft was part of the regioa 
 called Paralos. 
 
 CHAP. XXXIV. 
 
 Road to Marathon — Of Cephifia — An Infcription at Oxford 
 brought from thence — Another infcription — fourney co7itiniied 
 — Of Braiiron — Of Marathon — Funeral of Atticus He- 
 rodes — Pafs the night on Fentele. 
 
 MARATHON was diftant only eighty ftadia or ten 
 miles from Athens. I was defirous of feeing the plain, and on 
 the fifth of May, after the heat of noon was over, fet out 
 attended by a couple of Greeks. The elder brother was 
 acquainted with the road, poffeffing a fliare in a ftand of 
 goats and fheep in that neighbourhood. We left the two Ionic 
 columns of the refervoir of new Athens on our right ; paffing by 
 a huge fingle rock, which is fplit ; and by one, on which are 
 infcriptions moftly illegible. The mountain of St. George^ 
 called antiently, it is fuppofed, Anchefmus, was on our right 
 hand. It is a naked range, reaching from near Fentele, with a 
 church of the faint ' ftanding on the lofty fummit above the 
 columns and vifible afar. 
 
 We foon arrived at Cephifia, a village fituated on an emi- 
 nence by a flream near the wefl:ern extremity of mount Fentele. 
 It was once noted for plenty of clear water and for pleafant 
 fhade fuited to mitigate the heat of fummer. It has a mofque, 
 and is llill frequented, chiefly by Turks of Athens, who retire at 
 
 See the Vie w. Ruins of Athens, p. 37. 
 
 that 
 
i6o TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 that feafori to their houfes in the country. The famous comic 
 poet Menander was of this place. Atticus Herodes, after his 
 enemies accufed him to the emperor Marcus AureHus as 
 guilty of oppreffion, refided here and at Marathon j the youth 
 in general following him for the benefit of his inftruftion. 
 Among his pupils was Paufanias of Csfarea, the author, it has 
 been affirmed, of the defcription of Greece. 
 
 Atticus Herodes had three favourites, whofe lofs he lament- 
 ed, as if they had been his children. He placed ftatues of them in 
 the drefs of hunters, in the fields and woods, by the fountains, 
 and beneath the plane-trees ; adding execrations, if any perfon 
 iliould ever prefume to mutilate or remove them. One of the 
 hernias or Mercuries was found in a ruinous church at Cephifia, 
 and is among the marbles given by Mr. Dawkins to the univer- 
 fity of Oxford. This reprefented Pollux, but the head is want- 
 ing. It is infcribed with an affedionate addrefs to him ; after 
 which the poffeffor of the fpot is required, as he refpedts the 
 gods and heroes, to proted: from violation and to preferve clean 
 and entire, the images and their bafes ; and if he failed, fevere 
 vengeance is imprecated on him, that the earth might prove 
 barren to him, the fea not navigable, and that perdition might 
 overtake both him and his offspring ; but if he complied, that 
 every bleffing might await him and his pofterity. Another 
 flone with a like formulary, was ictn there by Mr. Wood j 
 and a third near Marathon. 
 
 We difmounted ahout funfet at a place almofl: deferted, called 
 Stamati ; and after fupper lay down to deep beneath a fpread- 
 ing vine before the cottage of an Albanian. Early in the 
 morning, I proceeded, with a guide, to examine an infcrip- 
 tion of which a peafant had given me information j quitting 
 the ftrait road to Marathon, between which place and Athens 
 was once a town named Pallene. We foon entered between 
 two mountains, Pentele ranging on our right ; and on the 
 left, one of Diacria tl^e region extending acrofs from mount 
 
 Parnes 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. i6r 
 
 Parnes to Brauron. Tarrying to water our horfes near Ibme 
 houfes, I was prefented by an Albanian with a handful of 
 white rofes frefh gathered. We penetrated into a lonely recefs, 
 and came to a fmall ruined church of St. Dionylius (landing on. 
 the marble heap of a trophy or monument eredted for fome 
 victory obtained by three perfons named ^nias, Xanthippus, 
 and Xanthides. The infcription is on a long ftone lying 
 near. 
 
 The two mountains are divided by a wide and deep watcr- 
 courfe, the bed of a river or torrent antiently named Erafinus. 
 The track, is on the margin, rugged and narrow, (haded with 
 oleander, flowering fhrubs, and evergreens. A tree had fallen 
 acrofs, but we paffed under it, and entered the plain of Mara- 
 thon at the corner next to Athens ; Pentele continuing in the 
 fame diredtion toward the fea, which, with a lofty barrow not 
 far fi'om the (hore, was now in view. The watercourfe, after 
 winding before a few Albanian cottages, interfedls part of the 
 plain and then ceafes. This village is corruptly called Vronna. 
 The old name was Brauron. Here we procured, not without 
 difficulty, a live fowl, which was boiled for breakfaft, and fome 
 eggs, to be fried in oil. We eat under an olive-tree, then 
 laden with pale yellow flowers. A ftrong breeze from the fea 
 fcattered the bloom, and incommoded us, but the fpot afforded 
 no fhelter more eligible. 
 
 Brauron was noted for a temple of Diana, in which was 
 an antient image of the goddefs. Iphigenia, the daughter of 
 Agamemnon, was faid to have left there the idol, which fhe 
 conveyed from Scythia Taurica. That had been carried to Sufa 
 by Xerxes, and given by Scleucus to the Laodiceans of Syria, 
 who continued in poflTeffion of it in the time of Paufanias. 
 Beyond the watercourfe is a large barrow ; and by it, toward 
 Pentele, are three fmaller ; with one, a little out of the line, 
 which had been opened for a furnace or lime-kiln. The 
 cenotaph of Iphigenia is probably among them. Some ftones 
 
 Y lie 
 
i62 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 lie about. The lofty barrow, mentioned before, is diftinft, In 
 the plain, nearer the fea, and vifible all around. 
 
 Quitting the olive-tree by Brauron, we rode along the 
 edge of the plain, with Pentele behind us ; pafled a folitary 
 church, and, after a few minutes, turned into a narrow vale on 
 the left hand. We then eroded a mountainous ridge, the track 
 rough and ftony, and came into the road, which leads diredlly 
 from Athens to Marathon. This place has retained its antient 
 name, is well watered but very inconfiderable, confiding only 
 of a few houfes and gardens. It was equidiflant from Caryllus 
 in Euboea and from Athens. 
 
 Atticus Herodes directed his freedmen to bury him at 
 Marathon, where he died at the age of feventy fix; but the 
 Ephebi or young men of Athens tranfported his body on their 
 fhoulders to the city, a multitude meeting the bier and weep- 
 ing like children for the lofs of a parent. The funeral obfe- 
 quies were performed in the ftadium, which was chofen for the 
 place of fepulture. The epitaph of this diftinguiflied perfon 
 was a fingle diftich. 
 
 We returned toward Brauron along the edge of the plain, 
 and paffed fome cottages and a church or two, on the fite perhaps 
 of Oenoe, which town was near Marathon. We afterwards 
 llanted off to the lofty barrow by the fea. The evening 
 approaching, we repaired to a goat-ftand on the fide of Pentele, 
 not far from Brauron. The peafants killed and roafted a kid for 
 my fupper, after which I lay down to fleep in the lee of a huge 
 bare rock. This region abounds in wolves. Several large and 
 fierce dogs guarded us, and at intervals barked vehemently and 
 ran together, in a troop, as it were to an attack, or to repel 
 fome wild beaft from their charge. Thefe dogs render it very 
 dangerous for a ftranger to go near their ftation even in the day- 
 time, unlefs accompanied by one of their keepers ; and then 
 likewife I have feen them not eafily pacified, and prevailed on 
 to retire. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 163 
 
 CHAP. XXXV. 
 
 Of the plain of Marathon — ExtraSl frotn Wheler-— Of Rbamnus 
 — The hat tie of Marathon — Defcription from Paufanias-— 
 the large harrow, 
 
 THE plain of Marathon is long and narrow. Oppolite to 
 the range of mountains, by which the village ftands, is the fea. 
 Pentele, with a lake at the extremity, as I noted from one of 
 the fummits, is the fouthern boundary. At the other end is 
 alfo a ridge, the ifthmus of a confiderable promontory once 
 named Cynofura. This is beyond a marfli or lake, from which 
 a ftream iflued ; the water at the head fit for cattle, but fait near 
 the mouth and full of fea-filh. Many aquatic birds, fuch as 
 we faw by the Gygaean lake, were flying about. The foil is 
 reputed exceedingly fertile. We rode through fome very thick 
 corn of mofl luxuriant growth, and the barley of this tradt was 
 antiently named Achillean, perhaps from its tallnefs. 
 
 Wheler, travelling on in the plain, paffed by Marathon, 
 and crofTed a river, which defcends from the mountains near it, 
 and enters the fea. Soon after he came to a fountain, of which 
 the water feemed prefently to flagnate into a lake or rather a 
 marfh or bog, at times almoft dry; then covered with ruflies 
 and weeds. Some caloyers or monks of the convent of Pentele 
 attend the fifhery, which furnifhes very large eels, and look 
 after the buffaloes, which are fond of feeding and wallowing in 
 the mire. By the fountain was a ruined town and a church, 
 where he fuppofes Tricorythus ftood. About a mile farther on 
 was a little village called Chouli, inhabited by Albanians, who 
 had another village of the fame name on the mountains ; the 
 cold forcing them to defcend with their cattle in winter, and 
 
 Y 2 the 
 
i64 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 the drought, with the flies fwarming from the lake, to return In 
 fummer. He proceeded three or four miles northward, and 
 came to the fea-(hore oppofite to Euboea, and to a ruined town 
 fituated in the ilthmus, and called Tauro-caftro or Hebraeo- 
 caftro, antiently Rhamnus. The mountain ends here in un- 
 palTable rocks and precipices. 
 
 Rhamnus was fixty ftadia or feven miles and a half from 
 Marathon, in the road going from thence to Oropus by fea. 
 It was famous for a temple of Nemefis, now reduced to a heap 
 lying on a hill in the middle of the ifthmus. The ftatue was 
 exceedingly celebrated, and ten cubits or fifteen feet high. It 
 was made by Phidias out of a block of marble, which the 
 Barbarians, intending to eredl a trophy in Attica, had tranf- 
 ported from Paros. The ruins, confifting of white marble, are 
 vifible afar off. I wi(hed to examine the fpot, but was too 
 flightly attended to advance farther on that fide, the Turks of 
 Euboea bearing a very bad charadler. 
 
 The Barbarians crofl"ed from Ionia under Datis and Arta- 
 phernes, with a fleet of fix hundred triremes. They reduced 
 Caryftus and Eretria, and fet the flaves taken at the latter town 
 on fhore on ^gileia, an ifland belonging to Styra near Caryftus. 
 They were conducted by Hippias to the plain of Marathon, as 
 a place fuited to their cavalry. The Athenian army did not 
 exceed nine thoufand, reckoning the old men and the flaves. 
 A thoufand Platseenfians, who joined it while drawn up in the 
 Heracleum or facred portion of Hercules at Marathon, were 
 placed in the left wing. The line was of equal extent with 
 that of the enemy, and the diftance between them not lefs than 
 a mile. The Barbarians broke the centre, which was thin and 
 weak, and purfued the routed troops up the country j but the 
 wings, which conquered, uniting to receive them on their return, 
 they alfo were beaten, and the (laughter reached to the fliips, of 
 which feven were feized. Many of the fugitives, from confu- 
 fion and ignorance, took toward the marfli, and, crouding one 
 
 on 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 165 
 
 on another, were driven into it. Six thoufand and four hun- 
 dred were llain. The lofs of the Athenians amounted only to 
 one hundred and ninety two. It had been ufual to inter the 
 citizens who perished in war, at the pubhc expenfe, in the 
 Ceramicus without the city ; but the death of thefe was deemed 
 uncommonly meritorious. They were buried, and a barrow 
 was made for them, where their bravery had been manifefled. 
 The Athenians continued to commemorate this viftory, which 
 was obtained in the firft year of the feventy fecond Olympiad', 
 in the time of Plutarch. 
 
 Pausanias examined the field of battle about fix hundred 
 years after this event. His account of it is as follows. " The 
 «* barrow of the Athenians is in the plain, and on it are pillars 
 ** containing the names of the dead under thofe of the tribes 
 *' to which they belonged -, and there is another for the Platas- 
 *« enfians and flaves ; and a diftinft monument of Miltiades, 
 " the commander, who furvived this exploit. There may be 
 ** perceived nightly the neighing of horfes and the clafhing of 
 ** arms. No perfon has derived any good from waiting on 
 ** purpofe to behold the fpecflres ; but their anger does not fall 
 ** on any one, who happens to fee them without defign. The 
 ** Marathonians worfliip thofe who were flain in the battle, 
 ** ftyling them heroes. — A trophy alfo of white marble has 
 ** been erefted. The Athenians fay the Medes were buried, 
 ** religion requiring that the corpfe of a man be covered with 
 " earth ; though I was not able to find any place of fepulture ; 
 *• for there is no barrow or other fign vifible, but they 
 ** threw them promifcuoufly into a pit. — Above the lake 
 ** are the marble-mangers of the horfes of Artaphernes, with 
 ** marks of a tent on the rocks." 
 
 Many centuries have elapfed fince the age of Paufanias, but 
 the principal barrow, it is likely, that of the gallant Athenians, 
 
 * Before Chrift, 491. 
 
 ftiU 
 
266 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 ftill towers above the level of the plain. It is of light fine 
 earth, and has a bufli or two growing on it. I enjoyed a pleaf- 
 ing and fatisfadrory view from the fummit, and looked, but in 
 vain, for the pillars on which the names were recorded, lament- 
 ing that fuch memorials fliould ever be removed. At a fmall 
 dillance northward is a fquare bafement of white marble, per- 
 haps part of the trophy. A Greek church has flood near it j 
 and fome ftones and rubbifh, difpofed fo as to form an open 
 place of worfhip, remain. The other barrows mentioned by 
 Paufanias are, it is probable, among thofe extant near Brauron. 
 
 CHAP. XXXVI. 
 
 A cave and the goat-Jland of Pan near Marathon — Story of the 
 •woman of Nondi — Way to the cave — Account of it-— 
 Remarks. 
 
 *' A LITTLE farther from the plain than Marathon, fays 
 ** Paufanias, is the mountain of Pan, and a cave worth fee- 
 " ing. The entrance into it is narrow. Pafllng it, there are 
 " houfes and fonts or wafhing-places ; with the goat-ftand of 
 " Pan, as it is called, being rocks, which have been likened 
 •♦ chiefly to goats. On this fide is Brauron." 
 
 I ENQUIRED for this cave of a peafant, who came to me, 
 while I tarried beneath the olive-tree. He affirmed it was not 
 much out of my way to Marathon, and undertook to condudl 
 me to it. In the vale, which we entered, near the veftiges of 
 a fmall building, probably a fepulchre, was a headlefs fiatue of 
 a woman fedent, lying on the ground. This, my companions 
 informed me, was once endued with life, being an aged lady 
 poffefled of a numerous flock, which was folded near that fpot. 
 Her riches were great, and her profperity was uninterrupted. 
 
 She 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 167 
 
 She was elated by her good fortune. The winter was gone by, 
 and even the rude month of March had fpared her flieep and 
 goats. She now defied Heaven, as unapprehenfive for the 
 future, and as fecure from all mifliap. But Providence, to- 
 corredl her impiety and ingratitude, commanded a fierce and 
 penetrating froft to be its avenging minifter; and fhe, her fold, 
 and flocks were hardened into flone. This ftory, which is 
 current, was alfo related to me at Athens. The grave Turk 
 cites the woman of Nonoi, for fo the tracft is called, to check 
 arrogance, and enforce the wifdom of a devout and humble dif- 
 pofition. I regretted afterwards my inattention to it on the 
 fpot ; for I was afTured that the rocky craggs afford at a certain 
 point of view the fimilitude of iheep and goats within an inclo- 
 fure or fold. 
 
 The road from Athens defcending toward Marathon is 
 rough and narrow. By the fide at the foot of the hill is a tall 
 tower J and below, a rivulet called Catakephalari. In the 
 ftream were veftiges of antient building, probably of the fonts 
 or places where the women waihed linen. We pafled by them 
 to a fhallow river, which we crofled in view of Marathon. Our 
 guide led us up the ftream to a fmall arched cave near the brow 
 of the rock above the current, ufed perhaps by fliepherds, 
 while their flocks are browfing or drinking below. This place 
 not correfponding with the defcription in Paufanias, I re-mount- 
 ed, intending to enquire at Marathon. On the way we came 
 to a mill, in which fix or feven Albanians were fitting in a circle 
 on the floor at dinner. One of them declared the grotto was 
 near, and that on fome occafion he had been in it. We tarried 
 while they difpatched their homely fare, of which they invited 
 me to partake, and then returned with five of them to the 
 rivulet J and quitting our horfes, afcended the mountain-fide, 
 which is fteep, with the tower on our left hand. 
 
 The cave has two mouths diftant only a few feet from each 
 Other. The rock before them is flat and fmooth ; and, above 
 
 them. 
 
i68 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 them, is cut down perpendicularly. The entrances are low 
 and narrow. That oppofite to the left hand is leaft commo- 
 dious. By this, two of the favages with a light, creeping on 
 their bellies, got in, not without difficulty, the aperture barely 
 admitting the body. I followed, and foon arrived in a chamber, 
 where I could ftand on my feet. The roof and fides were in- 
 crufted with fpar. We proceeded into fimilar chambers, in one 
 of which was water -, often flooping and creeping ; my con- 
 dudors with their piftols cocked, fearing fome lurking wolf or 
 wild beaft. I made my egrefs at the avenue intended for mor- 
 tals, or that moft eafy j very dirty, but pleafed with what I had 
 feen, as well as glad to revifit day, and to regain a purer atmof- 
 phere, with freedom of refpiration ; the moifl air confined 
 within being faturated, as it were, with the fmoke of our wax- 
 tapers and cedar torches. We difmifTed the Albanians, and 
 proceeded to Marathon. 
 
 The reader will recoiled: the account we have given of the 
 god Pan, and his prowefs at the battle of Marathon. It is 
 likely, the mountain owed its name and the cave to his fup- 
 pofed merit in that tranfadlion. He became a favourite deity, 
 and, it feems, was provided with a habitation near the fpot, 
 where he had acquired fo much renown. But now Pan with 
 his terrors is forgotten. His goat-ftand is pofTefled by an ideal 
 woman j and the old fable concerning it, whatever it was, is 
 fupplanted by a modern fidlion, ingenious as capable of moral 
 application. Both tales, it may be remarked, have been en- 
 grafted on the fame ftock ; and each, as in the metamorphofis 
 of Niobe, has appealed to the judgement of the eye, and re- 
 clined in fome meafure for fupport on the evidence of appear- 
 ances, which exift. 
 
 CHAP, 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 169 
 
 CHAP. XXXVII. 
 
 AJhend mount Fentele — The parries— -Chapels, &c. — T'/je 
 Monajlery ofPentele — Return to Athens— 'Numerous Churches, 
 &c. 
 
 1 LEFT the goat-ftand by Brauron early in the morning, 
 followed by the good wifhes of my ruftic hoft, and began to 
 afcend Pentcle ; chufmg to crofs the mountain, rather than 
 return to Athens by the way, which we came. The track, as 
 we advanced, became fo rough and fleep, and fo full of hazard 
 from precipices, that I had frequent occafion to be difpleafed 
 with this preference. At length, however, we attained nearly 
 to the fummit, and alighted to refrelh on a green fpot by a 
 fpring. 
 
 Descending on the oppolite fide, we difcovered a caloyer 
 or monk tending his flock, and were directed by him to the 
 quarries, which lay out of the beaten track, on a root of the 
 mountain. The upper quarry is open to the fky, with the rock 
 cut down perpendicularly ; the lower is remarkable for vail 
 humid caverns. In thefe the wide roof extends awfully over 
 head, and is adorned with hollow pendant tubes, like icicles, 
 each having a drop of clear water quivering at the end, and by 
 its fall about to add to the fpars growing up beneath. Within 
 the entrance, on the right hand, a fmall tranfparent petrifying 
 ftream trickles down the fide of the rock ; fpreading with many 
 curious ramifications, as if congealed by frofl: i and forming 
 bowls and bafins, from which it overflows. A well is funk 
 deep in the mountain, with a narrow way down to the water, 
 which is exceedingly cold. We faw chippings of marble ; and 
 were fliown at Athens a chryfl:al found in this quarry. 
 
 Z The 
 
 Si': •>■♦«. 
 
lyo TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 The marble of Pentele was efteemed both by the flatuary 
 and architeft. Athens owed many of its fplendid edifices to 
 the vicinity of that mountain and of Hymettus, where alfo is a 
 quarry in view from the town. After its decline, the ruins 
 furnifhed plenty of materials for fuch buildings as were wanted. 
 The lower quarry has, within the mouth, fome ruined chapels, 
 the walls painted with portraits of faints. Without it, high up, 
 is a fmall fquare building or room, with a window, projecting 
 from the fleep fide of the rock, which has been cut down per- 
 pendicularly, except a narrow ridge refembling a buttrefs. This 
 is covered with thick and antient ivy, and terminates fome feet 
 below, leaving the place inacceffible without a ladder, which, 
 it is likely, was placed there and occafionally removed. I fl:iould 
 fuppofe it the cell of fome hermit, but it feems to have been 
 planned and eredted, when the quarry was worked. It was 
 defigned perhaps for a centinel, to look out and regulate by 
 fignals the approach of the men and teams employed in convey- 
 ing marble to the city. 
 
 We defcended by a very bad track to the monaftery of 
 Pentele, a large and ordinary edifice, with the church in the 
 middle of the quadrangle. The monks here were fummoned to 
 prayers by a tune, which is played on a piece of iron hoop fuf- 
 pended. They are numerous, but were now difperfed, having 
 each his particular province or occupation. I was courteouily 
 received by the few who were refident ; and enjoyed there the 
 luxury of ihade under fome trees by a clear ftream, with good 
 wine, water, and provifions. My carpet was fpread in the area 
 of the quadrangle, near a gate-way, under which we flept at 
 night. I enquired for the manufcripts, which were (hown to 
 Sir George Wheler in 1676, but found no perfon who had 
 knowlege of them. The monaftery is one of the moft capital 
 in Greece, and enjoys a confiderable revenue from bees, fheep, 
 goats, and cattle, arable land, vineyards, and olive-trees. The 
 
 protedion 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 171 
 
 protedion of the Porte is purchafed yearly, as the cuflotn is, 
 and at a price not inferior to its abiHty. 
 
 The next evening we defcended from Pentele into the plain, 
 and pafTed by Callandri, a village among olive-trees, to Angele- 
 kipos or Angele-gardens. This place is frequented in fummer 
 by the Greeks of Athens, w^ho have their houfes fituated in a 
 wood of olives, of cyprefles, and of orange and lemon-trees, 
 with vineyards intermixed. The old name was Angele j and, 
 it is related ', the people of Pallene would not intermarry with 
 the inhabitants becaufe of fome treachery which they had ex- 
 perienced in the time of Thefeus. We rode on, leaving the 
 road to port Raphti on our left j and, keeping the range of 
 Anchefmus on our right, came near a monaftery called Hagios 
 Afomatos, {landing among olive-trees not far from the jundion 
 of the two rivers, the Eridanus and IlifTus. The place, where 
 water is colledted to be conveyed in chanels to the town, is at 
 no great diftance. From the monaftery of Pentele to Athens is 
 reckoned a journey of two hours. 
 
 The old Athenians fanftified even their mountains. Minerva 
 had a ftatue at Pentele; Jupiter, on Anchefmus, which is 
 mentioned as not a large mountain j and alfo on Hymettus, and 
 on Parnes. The latter was made of brafs. On Hymettus were 
 altars like wife, of thtjhowery Jupiter, and of Apollo the prefa- 
 ger J and on Parnes was an altar of Jupiter the fignifiery with 
 one on which they facrificed to him under different titles, ftyling 
 him Jlooivery or innocent as direfted by the weather. The later 
 citizen has equalled, if not furpaffed, the piety of his heathen 
 predeceffor, and has fcattered churches and convents over the 
 whole country. They occur in the fields, and olive-groves, in 
 the nooks and the recefles of the mountains. 
 
 J Wheler, p. 450. 
 
 Z 2 CHAP 
 
172 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 CHAP. XXXVIII. 
 
 l^he northern boundary of Attica — Whelers rout from Mara- 
 thon to Oropus — Eleutherce — Deceleia — Phyle — Harma — 
 Whelers rout from Thebes to Athens. 
 
 ATTICA was feparated frt)m Boeotia on the north by a 
 range of mountains, many-named, extending weftward from 
 Oropus to the Megaris or country of Megara. On the confines 
 were Panaftos, Hyfias fituated by the Afopus under mount 
 Cithoeron, and Oenoe by Eleuthers. Oropus was forty four 
 miles from Athens, thirty fix from Thebes, and twenty four 
 from Chalcis in Euboea '. 
 
 WheleR, leaving Marathon, afcended the mountain now 
 called Nozea, and travelled by the river, which has its courfe to 
 the plain interrupted by little cataracts or water-falls. After 
 an hour and a half he paffed a ruined village, called Kalingi, 
 on the fide of the mountain ; and, riding as long in the plain on 
 the top, Capandritti or Capodritti, famous for good wine. He 
 proceeded an hour farther, by an eafy afcent, to the higheft 
 point of the mountain. He then defcended an hour and more 
 along a torrent, and arrived at a town on the fide called Marco- 
 poli, where he faw fome antient fragments. Lower down he 
 came to the fhore of Euripus, and, after riding by it two hours 
 and a half, to the mouth of the Afopus, which river was then 
 fwelled by rain from mount Parnes and not fordable on horfe- 
 back. He travelled along the banks to Oropus, a town two 
 or three miles from the fea. 
 
 The territory of Platasa was contiguous with Attica more 
 weftward or on the fide of Eleufis, and mount Cithaeron was the 
 
 Antonine Itinerary. 
 
 boundary 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 173 
 
 boundary of Boeotia ; Eleutherae having furrendered to Athens 
 not from compulfion but voluntarily, from a defire to be under 
 its government and from hatred of the Thebans. Ruins of the 
 wall and of houfes remained at Eleutherte in the time of 
 Paufanias. In the plain before it was a temple and flatue of 
 Bacchus ; and more remote, a fmall cave with a fountain of 
 cold water ; where, it was related, the twin brothers Zethus and 
 Amphion were expofed by Antiope their mother, and found by 
 a fhepherd. 
 
 Deceleia, a town vifible from Athens, was toward Oropus. 
 It was one hundred and twenty ftadia or fifteen miles from the 
 city, and equidiftant from Boeotia. This place was refpedled 
 by the Lacedcemonians, becaufe when Caftor and Pollux were 
 in queft of their fifter Helen, Decelus informed them, fhe was 
 concealed by Thefeus at Aphidna. They fortified it with a 
 wall in the nineteenth year of the Peloponnefian war. It was 
 the burying-place of Sophocles and his anceftors. When the 
 poet died, it was faid, Bacchus appeared to Lyfander in his 
 fleep, and bade him permit the body to be put into the fcpul- 
 chre. 
 
 Phyle was a caftle toward Boeotia, one hundred fladia or 
 twelve miles and a half from Athens. It was reckoned im- 
 pregnable, and was the place to which Thrafybulus fled from 
 the thirty tyrants. It is now called Bigla-caftro, the Watch- 
 cajlle. The antient fortrefs is almoft entire ', {landing on a high 
 rock in the way from Thebes, the top not half a mile in cir- 
 cumference, the walls of hewn ftone well cemented. Athens 
 may be feen from it. 
 
 An oracle had direded, that the vidims, which the Athe- 
 nians were accuflomed to fend to Delphi, fhould not depart 
 until it lightened at Harma, a place on mount Parnes, by 
 
 • Wheler, p. 334. Pococke, p. j6o. 
 
 Phyle ; 
 
174 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 Phyle } and this fignal was expeded during three months, 
 certain priefts watching in each three days and nights. Their 
 flation was at the hearth of the lightning Jupiter, on the wall 
 between the temple of Apollo Pythius and the Olympieum at 
 Athens. 
 
 Wheler, with his companion, travelled foutheaftward from 
 Thebes along the ftream Ifmenus, and afcending came to the 
 fource, a very large, and clear fpring. He continued to mount 
 a mile or two, and then defcending crofTed a bridge over the 
 Afopus. He paffed the top of a rocky hill, the way bad, to 
 Vlachi a village of Albanians, where he obferved fome antient 
 walls, and caves underground. On a fummit was a little tower, 
 from which Thebes might be feen. This was on a ridge of 
 Cithasron, which runs eaflward toward Oropus. He went on 
 two hours and a half in a plain, and faw feveral ponds ' with 
 plenty of wild ducks and teal, and many low oaks, of the 
 fpecies which produces the large acorns. He then afcended 
 Parnes, a great and high mountain almoft covered with pine- 
 trees, now called Ca{ha, from a village on the fide in the way 
 down toward Attica. He paffed the night in a ruined khan by a 
 very curious fountain, reforted to by wolves, and bears, and wild 
 boars, which abound. Phyle was juft by this place. From 
 the eminence he looked down, as he relates, with unfpeakable 
 pleafure and content on the celebrated Athens, and the noble 
 plains fo famous in antient ftory. A narrow dangerous track 
 led by Cafha to the foot of the mountain ; and a level road 
 from thence to Athens j paffmg by a wood of olive-trees, with 
 feveral pleafant villages in it, watered by a river. Every fhep- 
 herd they met here bade them welcome, and wiflied them a 
 good journey. 
 
 » See Strabo, p. 406. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 175 
 
 CHAP. XXXIX. 
 
 Excurjions by fea — ^he Ji raits of Salamis — Manner of Jijhing 
 with a light — Mode of living — Arrive at Eleufis, 
 
 I VISITED the principal places of the Saronic gulf in two 
 excurfions by fea from Athens. One was in a caicque or 
 wherry, with Lombardi and a couple of fifhermen. We were 
 off iEgina on the twenty ninth of March, O. S, and obferved 
 about funfet a flafF of light near the horizon, in the fouth-weft, 
 which appeared again the next evening. We returned fooner 
 than was intended, finding our little boat too much incum- 
 bered with provifions and neceflaries to proceed with comfort or 
 fafety. Another wherry with two men was hired to carry 
 luggage and an Albanian fervant ; and in the evening, April the 
 feventh, we left Athens on horfeback, pafling by fome cotton- 
 grounds to the fea fhore. 
 
 The creek, in which our wherries waited, is to the weft: of 
 the Piraeus, and was antiently named port Phoron or 'Thieves' 
 port. By the coaft is a lov/ naked range of mountains, once 
 called, with a town, Corydallus. The partridges between it and 
 the city were obferved to have a different note from thofe 
 beyond '. Farther on was .-Egaleos a woody mountain, and 
 a ferry over to the ifland of Salamis, by which fl:ood antiently 
 an Heracleum or temple of Hercules. Amphiale was a root 
 running out into the fea, with a quarry above it. Two rocky 
 iflets near the cape were named Pharmacufae, and on the greater 
 was fhown the burying-place of Circe, perhaps a barrow. 
 After Amphiale was the town named Thria, the Thriafian coall 
 and plain, and Eleufis ; beyond which are the two mountains 
 
 ' Toward the city kxkkk^i^hth. Beyond the mountain imf/Si^sriy. 
 
 Kerata 
 
176 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 Kerata or T^he horns, which divided Attica from Megaris. The 
 ifland Salamis, now called Coluri, is oppofite ; and a long, narrow, 
 rocky point called antiently Cynofura or The dog's tail extends 
 toward port Phoron. The chanel in feveral places is narrow 
 and intricate. It is land-locked by Amphiale and the oppofite 
 cape. The width at the ferry was only two fladia or a quarter 
 of a mile. 
 
 After fupping on a turkey, which our men roafted on the 
 fhore, we lay down to fleep among the bare rocks, waiting until 
 the moon was fet. We embarked with a rougher Tea than was 
 pleafing, and rowed out in the dark toward the ifland, intending 
 to fifli. We joined our two feines, and the boats parted, 
 moving each a diiferent way, a man letting the net gently down 
 into the water. We met again in the centre, when fome 
 embers, which had been hidden, were blown up and expofed 
 on an iron grate. The flame was fed with cedar dipped in oil ; 
 which, blazing in the wind, brightened over the deep ; the red 
 coals hifling as they fell and were extinguifhed. At the fame 
 time we began to clatter with wooden hammers on the fides 
 and feats of the wherries, to dafh with a pole, and to throw 
 ftones ; difl;urbing and driving the fifli, and darting a trident or 
 fpear if any appeared at the top, dazzled by the light j fprink- 
 ling oil to render the furface tranquil and the water pellucid '. 
 The men drew up the net with caution, fearing the fins of 
 fome poifonous fifli, particularly the fcorpion, which is killed 
 with a blow on the head, while entangled, when the danger 
 ceafes. The boats meeting again, they untie the feines, and 
 throwing the fiery brands into the fea, proceed in the dark to 
 fome other place. This is the common method of fifhing in 
 thefe feas. It is of antient origin, and not unnoticed by the 
 
 " The antients knew this property of oil. Pliny tells us, " Mare omne oleo 
 tranquillari ; et ob id urinantes ore fpargere, quoniam mitigat naturam afperam 
 lucemque deportee." v. 2. p. 122. See alfo Plutarch. 
 
 Greek 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 177 
 
 Greek poets *. Many fires are feen on the water nightly about 
 the mouth of the gulf of Smyrna. 
 
 We continued tofling and toiling on the waves until the 
 morning dawned, when we had taken a confiderable quantity of 
 mullet, with fome cuttle-filh, and a fea-fpider or two. We 
 then landed, and made a fire with pieces of dry wood, and 
 brands colle<fled along the fhore. Some red mullets were 
 drefi"ed on the coals for breakfaft, and the nets fpread in the fun 
 to dry. When the moon was down we refumed our watry 
 occupation. We continued near a week in the ftraits. The 
 men in the day-time were employed in faking fifli, or in row- 
 ing along the coaft, and looking for the echinus or fea-chefnut, 
 cockles, oyllers, and the like ; fprinkling oil on the furface, 
 when necefilary; and taking them up with iron inflruments 
 faftened in long poles. The fea polypus lurks at the bottom of 
 the water. We found the penis marinus with the pointed ends 
 of the two (hells fixed in the mud, and the fan or broad part 
 open. The fifh is like a mufcle, and occupies only the lower 
 portion ; but each has guards, a kind of fhrimp, generally two 
 or three in number, which live in the vacant fpace, and give it 
 notice to fhut up on the approach of danger. We flept on 
 fliore, often in fcanty fhade ; and rambled on the mountains, 
 which are covered with low bufhes of lentifcus or maftic. We 
 killed fome partridges, and I was afiTured, that in this region 
 they are heard to fing, and fometimes are feen perching. It 
 was amufing to view the waves raging, and to lifl:en to the roar 
 about the headlands and promontories ; while in the lee it was 
 ftark calm. The experienced mariner judges of the fiiorm unfelt 
 and unfeen, and is direded by the noife to launch forth or to 
 tarry in the portlet. 
 
 We landed by the ferry, where fome paffengers waited the 
 return of the boat ; but I found no veftiges of a temple. We 
 
 * See Oppian. Cyneg. 1. 4. and a beautiful fimile in Q^ Smymajus, 1. 7. v. 568. 
 
 A a vifited 
 
178 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 vifited a monaftery oppofite to it in the ifland. This is a 
 recent ftrudlure, pleafantly fituated, not far from the fea. We 
 replenifhed our fkins and veflels there with wine, and dined 
 under a tree. We touched alfo on the Pharmacufse, now called 
 Megala Kira and Micra Kira. A ruinous church on one of 
 them afforded us fhelter from the fun. We eoafted the level 
 Thriafian plain, then green with corn, and entered the port of 
 Eleulis. We left our wherries, and pafTed through corn 
 to the village, which is at fome diftance. A refpite from fifli, 
 fea-weed fried in batter, and the like fare, was not unac- 
 ceptable. 
 
 CHAP. XL. 
 
 Of the Eleujtnian Myjieries —Of Eleufis — Of the myjlic temple 
 and the minifters — Of the fecrefy obferved by the initiated — 
 An hypothefis concerning the defgn of the myjieries — Account 
 of the ceremony of initiation — Hhe foundation of the myjieries, 
 
 ** CERES, fays an Athenian orator, wandering in queft of 
 ** her daughter Proferpine, came into Attica, where fome good 
 ** offices were done her, which it is unlawful for thofe, who 
 ** are not initiated, to hear. In return fhe conferred two un- 
 ** parallelled benefits j to wit, the knowlege of agriculture, by 
 ** which the human race is raifed above the brute creation, and 
 ** the myfteries, from which the partakers derive fweeter hopes 
 ** than other men enjoy, both as to the prefent life and to 
 ** eternity." It was the popular opinion, that the Eleufinian 
 goddefles fuggefled prudent counfel to their votaries, and influ- 
 enced their conduft ; that thefe were refpecSted in the infernal 
 regions, and had precedence in the affemblies of the bleffed ; 
 while the unhallowed were in utter darknefs, wallowing in mire, 
 or labouring to fill a leaky vefifel. The Athenians were follici- 
 tous to fecure thefe advantages to their children, by having them 
 
 initiated 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 179 
 
 initiated as foon as was allowed. Diogenes the Cynic was more 
 fenfible. He aflerted it was ridiculous to imagine that Agefilaus 
 and Epaminondas were exifting in filth, or that any perfon from 
 the fole merit of initiation would obtain a place in the iflands 
 of the happy. 
 
 Ceres was fuppofed to be particularly partial to Eleufis and 
 its vicinity. There were the memorials of her prefence and of 
 her bounty; the well named Callichorus, by which fhe had 
 refted, in the reign of Eredlheus -, the ftone, on which fhe 
 fate, named t/je forrowful -y the Rharian plain, where barley 
 was firft fown ; and the threfhing-floor and altar of Triptole- 
 mus, a herdfman, whom fhe inflruded in the culture of that 
 grain, the ufe of which fucceeded to acorns. There alfo the 
 grand myfleries were celebrated. This exhibition enriched Eleu- 
 lis, which had increafed to a city. The Athenians reduced it 
 to the rank of their demi or towns, but flill the reputation of 
 the goddefs was unfullied. Her myfteries continued to pofTefs a 
 pre-eminence in holinefs, and to be accounted as much fuperior 
 to all other religious feftivals as the Gods were to the Heroes. 
 Even the garments worn at the folemnity were fuppofed 
 to partake of their efEcacy, and to be endued with fignal vir- 
 tues. It was ufual to retain them until they were perifliing, 
 and then to dedicate them in the temple, or to referve them 
 for the purpofe of enwrapping new-born children. 
 
 The myflic temple, as it was called, provided by Pericles 
 for the folemnity, created fuch awe by its fandity as could be 
 equalled only by the effedt of its beauty and magnitude, which 
 excited aflonifhment in every beholder. The profane or unini- 
 tiated were forbidden to enter it on any pretence. Two young 
 Acarnanians happened inadvertently to mix with the croud at 
 the feafon of the myflerles, and to go in ; but the quefllons 
 fuggefled by their ignorance prefently betrayed them, and their 
 intrufion was punifhed with death. The chief prlefl, hiero- 
 
 A a 2 phant, 
 
i8o TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 phant, or myftagogue, was taken from the Eumolpidae, a holy 
 family flourifhing at Athens, and defcended from Eumol- 
 pus, a fhepherd and favourite of Ceres. He was enjoined 
 celibacy, and worCi a ftole or long garment, his hair, and a 
 wreath of myrtle. The grand requifites in his charadler were 
 flrength and melody of voice, folemnity of deportment, mag- 
 nificence, and great decorum. Under him, befides many of 
 inferior ftation, was the Daduchus or torch bearer, who had 
 likewife his hair, with a fillet ; the prieft, who officiated at the 
 altar j and the Hiero-ceryx or facred herald; all very important 
 perfonages. The latter was of a family which claimed the god 
 Mercury and Aglauros the daughter of Cecrops for its an- 
 ceflors. 
 
 The fecrecy, in which the myfteries were enveloped, ferved 
 to enhance the idea of their confequence, and to increafe the 
 defire of participation. It was fo particular, that no perfon was 
 allowed even to name the hierophant by whom he had been 
 initiated. Public abhorrence and deteftation awaited the babbler, 
 and the law direded he fhould die. Auguflus Caefar difmifi!ed 
 his council and all the afl"embly, when a caufe refpedling the 
 privileges of the priefts of Ceres came before his tribunal at 
 Rome. Paufanias declares, he was forbidden by a dream to 
 defcribe what was contained within the facred wall ; and adds, 
 that as it was unlawful for the profane to be prefent, fo it was 
 for them even to hear the myfteries revealed. The violating 
 this inveterate taciturnity, and the removing of the barrier, was 
 referved to a later age, when uniformity in religion had ceafed, 
 and the civil power was weak or divided by jarring parties j the 
 various fedlaries ftriving to procure or retain their profelytes, 
 and mutually ftruggling for fuperiority. The dark tranfadtions 
 of that once impenetrable rite were then difclofed ; and the in- 
 formation which has reached us, if it be not fufficient to gratify 
 a minute curiofity, yet contains more than is well worth know- 
 ing. 
 
 It 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. i8i 
 
 It has been afferted that the myfleries were defigned to be a 
 vehicle of fubUme knowlege, and reprefented in a kind of 
 drama of the hiftory of Ceres " the rife and eftabhfliment of 
 " civil fociety, the dodrine of a future ftate of rewards and 
 ** punifhments, the error of Polytheifm, and the principle of 
 *' unity, which laft article was their famous fecret." But this 
 weighty fuperftrudlure is not reared on the folid bafis of anti- 
 quity. It is certain, that the ftory of Ceres, which was the 
 ground-work of the myfteries, befides its abfurdities, was both 
 ludicrous and indecent. Let Orpheus and Baubo filence the 
 advocate for their dignity and purity '. But the author of this 
 hypothefis perhaps intended his differtation on the fixth book 
 of the iEneis as a piece of folemn irony ; and probably has 
 laughed at its fuccefs. 
 
 The grand myfteries were quinquennial. When the feafon 
 approached, the myftae, or perfons who had been initiated only 
 in the lefTer myfteries, repaired to Eleufis to be inftrudled in the 
 ceremonial. The fervice for the opening of the temple, with 
 morning facrifice, was performed. The ritual was then 
 produced from the fandluary. It was enveloped in fymbolical 
 figures of animals, which fuggefted words compendioufly, in 
 letters with ligatures, implicated, the tops huddled together, or 
 difpofed circularly like a wheel ; the whole utterly inexplicable 
 to the profane. The cafe, which was called Petroma, con- 
 fifted of two ftones exadly fitted. The myfterious record was 
 replaced after the reading, and clofed up until a future feC- 
 tival. The folemnity began on the fifteenth of the month 
 Boedromion, and ended on the twenty third. The principal 
 rite was nodlurnal, and confined to the temple and its environs. 
 The myfta: waited without, with impatience and apprehenfion. 
 Lamentations and ftrange noifes were heard. It thundered. 
 Flaflies of light and of fire rendered the deep fucceeding dark- 
 nefs more terrible. They were beaten, and perceived not the 
 
 1 See a treatife of the learned Meurfius entitled Eleufmia, p. 137 in the col- 
 lection of Grsvius, and his Attica Ldiiones, p. 1786. 
 
 hand. 
 
i82 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 hand. They beheld frightful apparitions, monfters, and 
 phantoms of a canine form. They were filled with terror, 
 became perplexed and unable to ftir. The fcene then fuddenly 
 changed to brilliant and agreeable. The Propyl^a or veftibules 
 of the temple were opened, the curtains withdrawn, the 
 hidden things difplayed. They were introduced by the hiero- 
 phant and daduchus, and the former (howed them the myfteries. 
 The fplendor of illumination, the glory of the temple and of 
 the images, the finging and dancing which accompanied the 
 exhibition, all contributed to footh the mind after its late agitation, 
 and to render the wondering devotee tranquil and felf-fatisfied. 
 After this infpedlion or, as it was called, the Autopfia, they 
 retired, and others advanced. The fucceeding days were em- 
 ployed in facrifice, in pompous proceffions, and fpe£tacles, at 
 which they aflifled, wearing myrtle-crowns. On the twenty 
 third, two vafes were filled, and placed toward the eaft and 
 weft. Some myftic words ' were pronounced, the vafes were 
 overturned, and the feftival ended. The archon ftyled 'The king 
 facrificed and repeated the prayer for the people of Athens, and 
 took cognizance of any irregularity, impiety, or adt of injuf- 
 tlce committed during the feftival. The language of the 
 myfteries *, like the letters of the ritual, was incomprehenfible 
 to the profane. The pafs-port to initiation was an occult for- 
 mulary not to be acquired but at the lefler myfteries ; and the 
 acclamation * at the conclufion, if the words had any fignifica- 
 tion, was intelligible only to the affembly. 
 
 The ftory of Ceres and Proferpine, the foundation of the 
 Eleufinian myfteries, was partly local. It was both verbally 
 delivered, and reprefented in allegorical fliow. Proferpine was 
 gathering flowers when (he was ftolen by Pluto. Hence the 
 proceflion of the holy bafket, which was placed on a car 
 dragged along by oxen and followed by a train of females, fome 
 
 * The myftic name of the goddcfs was a^c^uk. 
 
 3 JC»y|, '0|it;r«|. 
 
 carrying 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 183 
 
 carrying the myftic chefts, fhouting. Hail Ceres. At night a 
 proceflion was made with lighted torches to commemorate the 
 goddefs fearching for her daughter. A meafure of barley, the 
 grain which, it was believed, fhe had given, was the reward of 
 the vidtors in the gymnic exercifes ; and the tranfadion at the 
 temple had a reference to the legend. A knowlege of thefe 
 things and places, from which the profane were excluded, was 
 the amount of initiation j and the mode of it, which had been 
 devifed by craft, was fkillfully adapted to the reigning fu- 
 perftitions. The operation was forcible, and the eifedl in pro- 
 portion. The priefthood flourifhed as piety increafed. The 
 difpenfation was corrupt, but its tendency not malignant. It 
 produced fandtity of manners and an attention to the focial 
 duties i a defire to be as diftinguilhed by what was deemed virtue 
 as by filence. 
 
 CHAP. XLI. 
 
 The procejjion of lacchus from Athens — the facred way to tlie 
 moujitains — The monajiery of Daphne, &c. — The facred way 
 beyond, to Eleufs — The Rhiti or falt-Jir earns, &c. — An 
 Infcription — Incurfons of the Lacedcemonians into Attica. 
 
 THE fixth day of the Eleufinian myfleries was called 
 lacchus from a fon of Jupiter, who was faid to have accompa- 
 nied his mother Ceres when feeking Proferpine. An image of 
 him, crowned with myrtle and bearing a torch, was carried 
 from the inner Ceramicus at Athens in folcmn proceffion to 
 Eleulis, as it were to vifit Ceres and his filler ; attended by a 
 vaft multitude, fome with vidims, ftiouting, finging and dan- 
 cing, and playing on cymbals, tabors, and other mufical inflru- 
 ments. The way, on which he pafTed with his retinue, was 
 called the facred. It was exactly defcribed by Polemo the guide. 
 
 Eleufis 
 
i84 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 Eleufis is reckoned about four hours from Athens. In the 
 Antonine Itinerary the diftance is thirteen miles. 
 
 The facred ivay was one of the roads which branched off 
 without the gate called Dipylon. On it was the pillar of An- 
 themocritus ; and beyond, a tomb ; and a place called Scirum 
 from Scirus a prophet of Dodona, who was buried there by 
 the torrent-bed. A monument flood near it. Farther on were 
 two J with the facred portion of the hero Lacias, the town 
 called Laciadas, a monument, an altar of Zephyrus, and a 
 temple of Ceres and her daughter, with whom Minerva and 
 Neptune were jointly worfhipped. Here Phytalus, it was faid, 
 received the goddefs into his houfe, who requited him, as the 
 infcription on his tomb teftified, by difcovering to him the culture 
 of the fig. The procefTion refled at \S\q facred jig-tree on its return 
 to Athens. Nearer the CephifTus was a monument ; and on the 
 bank, a flatue of a woman, and of her fon cutting off his hair 
 in honour of the river. Beyond the Cephiffus was the altar of 
 the mild Jupiter, at which Thefeus was purified; with two 
 tombs. By the road was a fmall temple of Cyamites or the 
 bean-giver. This was an epithet of Bacchus, but Paufanias 
 was uncertain whether he was intended or fome hero ; for the 
 invention of beans, from which the myfls were diredled to 
 abflain, was not to be referred to Ceres. He adds, " Who- 
 •' ever has been initiated at Eleufis or has read the Orphica 
 *' knows what I mean." The monument of a Rhodian was 
 remarkable for its magnitude and beauty j as alfo one eredled by 
 Harpalus the Macedonian for a courtezan, whom he married at 
 Athens. This portion of the facred way, it is believed, extended 
 to the mountains which bound the plain of Athens toward 
 Eleufis. The prefent road is nearly in the fame diredlion, lead- 
 ing to the olive-groves and the Cephiffus. Inflead of the 
 fepulchres, altars, and temples, now occur folitary ch-urches, 
 and a few traces fuggefling unfatisfadlory conjedture. The 
 Cephiffus was formidable as a torrent. A bridge was eredled, 
 that lacchus might pafs without delay. An epigram which 
 
 was 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 185 
 
 was infcribed on it is, preferved under the name of SImonides. 
 It is an addrefs to the myftas, bidding them to proceed to the 
 temple of Ceres without fear of wintry floods ; for Xenocles of 
 Lindus, a city of Rhodes, had provided for their fafety in 
 paffing the broad flream. I faw fome piers remaining not far 
 from the place where travellers crofs. 
 
 A GAP in the mountains beyond the river, vifible from 
 Athens, feparates iEgaleos on the left hand from Parnes on the 
 right. The entrance on the road through it was termed the myjiic. 
 About mid-way to Eleufis in the mountain is a monaftery called 
 Daphne Farther on is a heap of ruins, and part of a wall, 
 of the mafonry termed the Incertum -, the remnants of a tem- 
 ple of Venus, and of a wall of rough flones in the front men- 
 tioned by Paufanias as worth feeing. The rock on the right 
 hand is cut down perpendicularly, with grooves as for the 
 reception of tablets, and perhaps was that called Poecilon or the 
 painted. At the foot lies a marble fragment or two; we fup- 
 pofed, of an alcove. On the way to that temple was antiently 
 one of Apollo, in which was placed a ftatue of Ceres, of Pro- 
 ferpine, and of Minerva. Riding on to the end of the gap, 
 you have the fea, the Thriafian plain, and Eleufis in view. 
 
 The monaftery of Daphne is a mean and barbarous edifice, 
 inclofed within a high wall. Before the gate is a well of 
 excellent water. The church is large and lofty, and reputed 
 the mofi: antient in Attica. The infide of the dome is adorned 
 with a figure of Chrift in Mofaic, much injured. In one of 
 the chapels is a marble farcophagus. The Turks are frequent 
 and unwelcome vifitants in their way to and from the Morea. 
 The corfairs formerly infefted it from the fea, and it was almoft 
 deferted. I found there a prieft with a monk or two. It pro- 
 bably occupies the fite of the temple of Apollo. Some Hand- 
 ing columns are immured in a wall by the church ; and in the 
 court is a long flone with a Latin infcription, which records the 
 confecration of fomething, it is likely of the temple, by the 
 
 B b emperors 
 
r»6 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 emperors Arcadius and Honorius, when Eufebius was pro- 
 curator of the province of Achaia. Arcadius commanded that 
 the temples fhould be deftroyed ', and the bridges, high-ways, 
 aqusedudis, and city-walls be repaired with their materials ; but 
 fpared fome to be converted into churches at the requeft of 
 bifhops and eminent perfons. 
 
 Pausanias from the temple of Venus proceeds to the 
 currents called Rhiti. Thefe were ftreams of fait- water. *' One 
 <* may believe, fays he, that they flow from the Euripus of 
 *• Chalcis, falling from the land into the lower fea." They 
 were facred to Ceres and Proferpine, and the priefts only 
 had the privilege of filhing. Beyond the Rhiti was a tradt 
 called the kingdom of Crocon ; with the monument of Eu- 
 molpus ; of Hippothoon, from whom one of the tribes was 
 named ; and of Zarex, who was faid to have been inftrudted in 
 mufic by Apollo. Paufanias then mentions the Eleufinian 
 CephiiTus. This river was more violent than the former. By 
 it Thefeus flew Procruft:es j and, as they related, Pluto de- 
 fcended into hell with Proferpine. A flood happening while the 
 emperor Hadrian was at Athens, he ordered the building of a 
 bridge for paflengers. 
 
 Wheler came to the fea-fide in lefs than half an hour 
 from the monaftery, and to a fmall fait lake running into the bay 
 by a little ftream. A town, perhaps Thria, had fl:ood on a hill 
 to the north of it '. Soon after he pafled another little ftream. 
 He travelled over a plain, feven or eight miles long weftward, 
 and three or four broad from the fea northward. It was then, in 
 the month of February, beautified with anemonies. The caufey 
 was paved with large ftones. Along it were many ruins of 
 churches or temples j one with a pannel of wall (landing, of a 
 grayilTi fl:one. The two ftreams were the Rhiti, but he has 
 called the latter the Cephiflius. The water was confined, whea 
 
 I In the year of Chrift, 399. 
 
 * At Thria was a temple of Venus Phile ere£led by the flatterers of king Deme- 
 trius in honour of his mother, whofe name was Phile. The place was called 
 Philsum. 
 
 I faw 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 187 
 
 I faw it, by a low wall intended to make a head fufficient to 
 turn a mill. The CephifTus, it is probable, was an occafional 
 torrent from the mountains. Pococke did not obferve any river 
 in the way to Eleulis. 
 
 In the plain beyond the Rhiti, an hour from the village, is 
 a fmall heap of ruins, probably of one of the fepulchres (cen 
 by Paufanias, on which a church has been eredled ; fome traces 
 remaining. A long piece of marble, fixed as a fide jamb for 
 the door-way of the latter edifice, is infcribed in large charac- 
 ters, and informs us, that the lofty monument belonged to an 
 hierophant exceedingly renowned for his wifdoni; who, by his 
 intrepidity, had preferved the myftic rites from hoftile violence, 
 an exploit, for which he had been honoured with a crown by 
 the people. The hierophants were greatly revered, and ftyled 
 divine, and god-like. 
 
 A WAY led from Eleufis into Boeotia and the Plataeis or 
 territory of Platasa. The Lacedcemonians in the Peloponnefian 
 war made an incurfion into Attica from this quarter at the 
 feafon of the harveft. They endeavoured to reduce Oenoe on 
 the confines, marched to Eleufis, laid wafte the Thriafian plain, 
 defeated a party of horfemen near the Rhiti, and proceeded, 
 with iEgaleos on their right hand, through Cecropia as far as 
 Achamae, the moil confiderable town of Attica and diftant 
 only fixty ftadia or feven miles and a half from Athens, which 
 it fupplied with charcoal. The city-gate toward it was called 
 the Acharnenfian. After tarrying there, they deftroyed fome 
 towns between Parnes and Brilefifus, and pafling by Oropus 
 re-entered Boeotia. The fame enemy diflrefiTed Athens by 
 fortifying and keeping a garrifon in Deceleia. The pomp of 
 lacchus was then tranfported to Eleufis by fea, with many 
 omifllons in the ceremony j but, one year, Alcibiades refolved 
 to conduift it by land. He communicated his defign to the 
 Eumolpidas and heralds, placed fpies on the eminences, fur- 
 rounded the priefi:s, the myfix, and myftagogues with foldiers, 
 and conveyed them along the facred way with filence and regu- 
 
 B b 2 larity ; 
 
iS8 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 larity; exhibiting a religious fpeftacle fingularly ftriking and 
 folemn. It is remarkable, that the celebration of the myfte- 
 ries was only once interrupted during the very long period 
 of their exiftence. Alexander the Great took Thebes on the 
 fixth day, and the Athenians then defifted, that their acclama- 
 tions to lacchus might not re-echo to the cries of the captives. 
 
 CHAP. XLII. 
 
 ExtinSlion of the Eleujinian myjleries — OfEleuJis — Of the myfi'tc 
 temple, (^c. — Other remains — Road to Megara. 
 
 A PRINCIPAL ingredient in the charadler of the Athenf- 
 ans was piety in the extreme. This, as it difpofed thera 
 readily to admit the knowlege of any unknown god, fo it pre- 
 ferved them in general unalienated from old opinions, and rigid 
 obfervers of eflablifhed ceremonials. Though St. Paul had 
 preached and an Areopagite been converted, the perfume of in- 
 cenfe afcended, as before, to the idol ; the vidtim was offered ; 
 the procefTion made ; and the public attention engaged in ful- 
 filling the ritual of Ceres and Proferpine, Minerva, and Bacchus, 
 and the like divinities. Eleufis ftill maintained an extenfive 
 reputation, and appeared the common property of all nations j 
 fo many pilgrims from various and remote parts of the world 
 continued to vifit it at the feafon of the myfteries. The fefta- 
 ries increafing, the old formulary '* Begone ye profane" was 
 changed ; and the herald proclaimed, " If any Atheift, or 
 " Chriftian, or Epicurean is come a fpy on the Orgies, let him 
 " inftantly retire; but let thofe who believe be initiated, with 
 " good Fortune." The Chriftians, while the emperor Hadrian 
 refided at Athens, were perfecuted '; and Quadratus, a difbiple 
 
 ' In the year of Chrift, 125. 
 
 of 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 189 
 
 of the apoftles, and the third bi{hop, prefented to him an 
 apology for their profeflion. At length a law prohibiting 
 nodlurnal rites was pubhlhed by Valentinian '; but Prsetextatus, 
 whom Julian had conftituted governor of Achaia, prevailed on 
 him to revoke it, urging, that the lives of the Greeks would be 
 rendered utterly infupportable, if he deprived them of this 
 moft holy and comprehenlive feftival. Its extindtion was re- 
 ferved for a foreign foe ; and the fatal a;ra now approached. 
 Alaric with his hoft rufhed fuddenly through the ftrait of 
 Thermopylae, and a general ruin of univerfal Greece accompa- 
 nied the cataftrophe of Ceres and Eleufis. 
 
 Eleusis, on the overthrow of its goddefs and the ceffation 
 of its gainful traffic, probably became foon an obfcure place, 
 without character or riches. For fome ages, however, it was 
 not entirely forfaken, as is evident from the vaft confumption of 
 the antieni materials, and from the prefent remains. The port 
 was fmall and of a circular form. The ftones of one pier are 
 feen above water, and the correfponding fide may be traced. 
 About half a mile from the fhore is a long hill, which divides 
 the plain. In the fide next the fea are traces of a theatre, and 
 on the top are cifterns cut in the rock. In the way to it, fome 
 mafTes of wall and rubbilh, partly antient, are {landing ; with 
 ruined churches ; and beyond, a long broken aqusdudl crofles 
 to the mountains. The Chriftian pirates had infefled the place 
 fo much, that in 1676 it was abandoned. It is now a fmali 
 village at the eaftern extremity of the rocky brow, on which 
 was once a caflle ; and is inhabited by a few Albanian families, 
 employed in the culture of the plain, and fuperintended by a 
 Turk, who refides in an old fquare tower. The proprietor was 
 Achmet Aga, the primate or principal perfon of Athens. 
 
 The myftic temple at Eleufis was planned by Idlinus, the 
 archite(5t of the Parthenon. Pericles was overfeer of the build- 
 
 ' In the year of Chrift, 364. 
 
 ing. 
 
190 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 ing. It was of the Doric order, the cell fo large as to admit 
 the company of a theatre. The columns on the pavement 
 within, and their capitals, were raifed by Coraebus. Metage- 
 nes of Xypete added the architraves and the pillars above them, 
 which fuftained the roof. Another completed the edifice. 
 This was a temple in antis, or without exterior columns, 
 which would have occupied the room required for the vidlims. 
 The afpedl was changed to Projiylos under Demetrius the Pha- 
 lerean ; Philo a famous architedl ereQing a portico, which gave 
 dignity to the fabric and rendered the entrance more commodi- 
 ous. The fite was beneath the brow, at the eaft end, and 
 encompaffed by the fortrefs. Some marbles, which are uncom- 
 monly maffive, and fome pieces of the columns remain on the 
 fpot. The breadth of the cell is about one hundred and fifty 
 feet ; the length, including the Pronaos and portico, is two 
 hundred and fixteen feet ; the diameter of the columns, which 
 are fluted fix inches from the bottom of the fhafts, is fix feet 
 and more than fix inches. The temple was a Decafl:yle or had 
 ten columns in the front, which was to the eaft. The peri- 
 bolus or inclofure, which furrounded it on the north-eaft and 
 on the fouth fide, meafures three hundred and eighty feven feet 
 in length from north to fouth, and three hundred twenty eight 
 feet in breadth from eaft to weft. On the weft fide it joined the 
 angles of the weft end of the temple in a ftraight line. Between 
 the weft wall of the inclofure and temple and the wall of the 
 citadel was a paflTage forty two feet fix inches wide, which led 
 to the fummit of a high rock at the north-weft angle of the 
 inclofure, on which are vifible the traces of a' temple in amis, 
 in length feventy four feet fix inches from north to fouth, and 
 in breadth from the eaft to the wall of the citadel, to which it 
 joined on the weft, fifty four feet. It was perhaps that facred 
 to Triptolemus. This fpot commands a very extenfive view of 
 the plain and bay. About three fourths of the cottages are 
 within the precindts of the myftic temple, and the fquare tower 
 ftands on the ruined wall of the inclofure. 
 
 At 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 191 
 
 At a fmall diftance from the north end of the inclofure is a 
 heap of marble confiding of fragments of the Doric and Ionic 
 orders, remains, it is likely, of the temples of Diana Propylea 
 and of Neptune, and of the Propyleum or gateway. Wheler 
 faw fome large ftones carved with wheat-ears and bundles of 
 poppy. Near it is the bufl: of a cololTal ftatue of excellent 
 workmanfhip, maimed, and the face diffigured ; the breadth at 
 the fhoulders, as meafured by Pococke, five feet and a half; 
 and the balket on the head above two feet deep. It probably 
 reprefented Proferpine. In the heap are two or three infcribed 
 pedeflials ; and on one are a couple of torches, crofi*ed. We 
 faw another fixed in the ftone flairs, which lead up to the 
 fquare tower on the outfide. It belonged to the ftatuc 
 of a lady, who was hierophant or prieftefs of Proferpine and 
 had covered the altar of the goddefs with filver. A well 
 in the village was perhaps that called Callichorus, where the 
 women of Eleufis were accuflomed to dance in honour of Ceres. 
 A tradition prevails, that if the broken ftatue be removed, the 
 fertility of the land will ceafe. Achmet Aga was fully pofiefiTed 
 with this fuperftition, and declined permitting us to dig or 
 meafure there, until I had overcome his fcruples by a prefent of a 
 handfome fnufF-box containing feveral Zechins or pieces of gold. 
 
 A ROAD led from Eleufis into the Megaris. On it was a 
 well called T^he Jlowery, where Ceres was faid to have refted ; 
 and a little farther, a temple j and after that, the tombs of the 
 Argives, whofe bodies were recovered from the Thebans by 
 Thefeus ; and then a monument, near which was a fpot called 
 in the time of Paufanias the Palsftra or wrejlling-place of 
 Cercyon. Wheler rode about a mile under the north fide of 
 the hill J the way covered with anemonies of feveral colours, 
 wonderfully beautiful j and turning to the left arrived at the 
 jlowery well, a fpring in a cultivated vale, two or three miles 
 in compafs, which he fuppofes the Rharian plain. Soon after he 
 began to afcend Kerata or Gerata. Two piked rocks on the top 
 fliow like horns, and on one was a tower. The way over the 
 
 mountain 
 
192 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 mountain was very bad. He then travelled about an hour in 
 a plain, and arrived at Megara. The diftance of this place from 
 Eleufis in the Antonine Itinerary is thirteen miles. 
 
 CHAP. XLIII. 
 
 Proceed to Megara — Of the port and town Nifaa — Of Megara 
 — Tthe Jlone — An infcrtption — Dread of Corfairs — Of the 
 Megaris — Our lodgings &c. 
 
 WE were prevented from tarrying at Eleufis by the arrival 
 of certain Agas or rich Turks, in their way from Corinth to 
 Athens. Lombardi, who knew them, haftened to the tower, 
 and appeared full of joy j kneeling before them, fawning, and 
 kiffing their beards. His tone changed as foon as he was out of 
 their prefence, and he poured forth execrations on them very 
 liberally. We proceeded flowly as before, toward Megara ; and, 
 landing to dine, afcended the ridge by the fea, behind which is 
 a conliderable valley, part of the plain of Eleufis. We ap- 
 proached the port, and, the wind not permitting us to turn the 
 point of a fmall rocky promontory once called Minoa, went 
 afliore, and after fome ftay croflTed it on foot ; leaving men to 
 convey the boats round into the bay. Megara, like Athens, 
 was fituated at a diftance from the fea. 
 
 The port of Megara was called Nifaea from Nifus fon of 
 Pandion the fecond, who obtained the Megaris for his portion, 
 when the kingdom of Athens was divided into four lots by his 
 father. He founded the town, which was eighteen ftadia or 
 two miles and a quarter from the city, but united with it, as 
 the Piraeus with Athens, by long walls. It had a temple of 
 Ceres. ** The roof, fays Paufanias, may be fuppofed to have 
 ♦' fallen through age." The lite is now covered with rubbifli, 
 among which are ftanding fome ruinous churches. The place 
 
 has 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 193 
 
 has been named from them Dodeca Ecclefiais The 'Twelve 
 Churches, but the number is reduced to feven. The acropolis 
 or citadel, called alio Nifiea, was on a rock by the fea-fide. 
 Some pieces of the wall remain, and a modern fortrefs has been 
 eredted on it ; and alfo on a lefler rock near it. An iflet before 
 Nifffia was now green. It is one of five, which, as Strabo relates, 
 occurred in failing from that port toward Attica. There Minos 
 Rationed the Cretan fleet in his war with Nifus. 
 
 We had a hot walk to the village of Megara, which confifts 
 of low mean cottages, pleafantly fituated on the Hope of a brow 
 or eminence indented in the middle. On each fide of this vale 
 was an acropolis or citadel ; one named Caria, the other from 
 Alcathous, the builder of the wall. They related, that he was 
 affifted by Apollo, who laid his harp afide on a ftone, which, 
 as Paufanias teftifies, if ftruck with a pebble returned a mufical 
 found. An angle of the wall of one citadel is feen by a wind- 
 mill. The mafonry is of the fpecies called Incertum. In 1676 
 the city-wall was not entirely demolilhed, but comprehended 
 the two fummits, on which are fome churches, with a portion 
 of the plain toward the fouth. The whole fite, except the 
 hills, was now green with corn and marked by many heaps of 
 flones, the colledled rubbifh of buildings. A few infcriptions are 
 found, with pedefi:als fixed in the walls and inverted j and alfo 
 fome maimed or mutilated ftatues. One of the former relates to 
 Atticus Herodes, and is on a pedeftal which fupported a flatue 
 ered:ed to him, when conful ', by the council and people of 
 Megara; in return for his benefadions and good will toward 
 the city. In the plain behind the fummits, on one of which 
 was a temple of Minerva, is a large bafin of water, with fcat- 
 tered fragments of marble, the remains of a bath or of a foun- 
 tain, which is recorded as in the city and remarkable for its 
 fize and ornaments, and for the number of its columns. The 
 Ipring was named from the local Nymphs called Sithnides. 
 
 ' In the year of Chrift, 143. 
 
 C c The 
 
194 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 The {lone of Megara was of a kind not difcovered any where 
 elfe in Hellas ; very white, uncommonly foft and confiiling 
 entirely of cockle-fliells. This was chiefly ufed, and, not 
 being durable, may be reckoned among the caufes of the defo- 
 lation at Megara, which is fo complete, that one fearches in 
 vain for veftiges of the many public edifices, temples, and 
 fepulchres, which once adorned the city. I obferved fome of 
 the ftone at Athens in the minaret of the Parthenon. 
 
 Megara was engaged in various wars with Athens and 
 Corinth, and experienced many vicifhtudes of fortune. It was 
 the only one of the Greek cities, which did not re-flourifli under 
 their common benefador Hadrian ; and the reafon afligned is, 
 that the avenging anger of the gods purfued the people for their 
 impiety in killing Anthemocritus, a herald, who had been 
 fent to them in the time of Pericles. The Athenian generals 
 were fworn on his account to invade them twice a year. Ha- 
 drian and Atticus were followed by another friend, whofe 
 memory is preferved by an infcription on a ftone lying near a 
 church in the village. " This too is the work of the moft 
 " magnificent count Diogenes fon of Archelaus, who regard- 
 " ing the Grecian cities as his own family, has beftowed on 
 " that of the Megarenfians one hundred pieces of gold toward 
 " the building of their towers, and alfo one hundred and fifty 
 " more with two thoufand two hundred feet of marble toward 
 *' re-edifying the bath ; deeming nothing more honourable 
 *• than to do good to the Greeks and to reftore their cities." 
 This perfon is not quite unnoticed in hiftory. He was one of 
 the generals employed by the emperor Anaftafuis on a rebellion 
 in Ifauria. He furprized the capital, Claudiopolis, and fuf- 
 tained a fiege with great bravery '. 
 
 Megara retains its original name. It has been much in- 
 fefted by corfairs, and in 1676 the inhabitants were accuftomed, 
 on feeing a boat approach in the day time or hearing their dogs 
 
 ' In the year of Chrift, 494. 
 
 bark 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 195 
 
 bark at night, immediately to fecrete their effeds and run away. 
 The Vaiwode or Turkifh governor, who refided in a forfaken 
 tower above the village, was once carried off. It is no wonder 
 therefore, that Nifca has been long abandoned. On the fhore, 
 when we crofled the promontory from our boats, fome women 
 who were waftiing linen, perceiving my hat and Lombard! 
 in a ftrange drefs with a gun on his fhoulder, fled precipi- 
 tately. Our men called after them, but could not prefently 
 perfuade them to lay afide their terror and refume their employ- 
 ment. The place was burned by the Venetians in 1687. 
 
 The Megaris is defcribed as a rough region, like Attica, the 
 Mountain called Oneian or t/ie Afminey now Macriplayi or the 
 long Mountain, extending through it toward Boeotia and mount 
 Cithaeron. It belonged to Ionia or Attica, until it was taken 
 by the Peloponnefians in the reign of Codrus, when a colony of 
 Dorians fettled in it. The weftern boundary of the plain is a 
 very high mountain called Pal^eovouni or the old Mountain, 
 antiently Gerania. It was covered with a frefh verdure. Me- 
 garus, in the deluge which happened under Deucalion, was 
 faid to have efcaped to its fummits. From the hill by the 
 village we could difcern the two tops of ParnafTus, diftindt, and 
 far above the clouds. They are formed by mountains heaped 
 on mountains, and can be feen only at a confiderable dillance. 
 
 Our lodging at Megara was an open /hed adjoining to the 
 houfe of a Greek prieft, a young man of great fimplicity, 
 with a thick black beard. He was Oeconomus or bailiff, no 
 Turk refiding there. In the court were fowls of the rumplefs 
 breed. A woman was fitting with the door of her cottage 
 open, lamenting her dead hufband aloud. Some cavities in the 
 ground near the road from the port feem to have been receptacles 
 of grain. I enquired for medals, and in the evening, when the 
 inhabitants were returned from their labour, notice was given 
 by a crier Handing on the flat roof of a cottage at the foot of 
 a hill near the center of the village ; but very few were pro- 
 
 C c 2 duced 
 
196 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 duced of any value. The Oeconomus had an Athenian tetra- 
 drachm faftened to his purfe, which he refufed to part with, 
 regarding it as an amulet or charm. 
 
 CHAP. XLIV. 
 
 Leave Megara — Vefiiges of buildings — Of the Scironian rocks 
 and way — T'he prefent road to Corinth — Pafs the night 
 in a cave — Coaji by the Scironian way — Vejiiges of Cromyon 
 — Of Sid lis. 
 
 W E purchafed provifions, with wholfome wine, at Megara ; 
 and, after fome flay, I defcended again to Nifaea, purpofing ta 
 proceed to the ifthmus of Corinth ; not without regret on 
 quitting the hofpitable prieft and a lodging free from vermin. 
 
 The wind blowing frefh and contrary, we rowed from 
 Nifaea to the fide of the bay oppofite to Minoa, and put 
 into a fmall creek made with ftones piled to break the waves, 
 by the entrance on the Scironian way, the antient road to 
 Corinth. Near it were heaps of ilones among corn, as at 
 Megara, the veftiges of a town or village j a farcophagus cut in 
 the rock j the ruin of a fmall building, the wall faced on the 
 outfide with mafonry of the fpecies termed Incertum ; and by 
 it a lime-kiln, and a piece or two of the entablature not inele- 
 gantly carved. This was probably one of the fepulchres, which 
 Paufanias defcribes on the way to Corinth. A torrent-bed, 
 which we crofTed going to Megara from Nifa3a, winds to the 
 fea on this fide of the plain. 
 
 The Scironian rocks are a termination of the Oneian moun- 
 tains, wafhed by the fea. The track over them was fix miles 
 long, often on the brink of dreadful precipices, with the 
 
 mountain 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 197 
 
 mountain rifing above, lofty and inacceffible. Sciron, while 
 general of the Megarenfians, made it pafTable to perfons on 
 foot i and the emperor Hadrian widened it, fo that two cha- 
 riots might drive one by another. A prominent rock in a 
 narrow part was named Moluris ; and from it, as they fabled, 
 Ino threw herfelf into the fea with Melicerte. It was accounted 
 facred to Leucothea and Pala^mon, by which names fhe and 
 her fon were enrolled among the marine deities. Beyond 
 Moluris were the Accurfed Rocks, v.'here was the abode of 
 Sciron. The infamy of his haunt continued for many ages. 
 On a fummit was a temple of Jupiter ; and farther on, a monu- 
 ment of Euryftheus, who was flain there by lolaus ; and defcend- 
 ing, a temple of Apollo ; after which were the boundaries of 
 the Megarenfians next the territory of Corinth ; where, they 
 related, Hyllus the fon of Hercules contended in fingle combat 
 with an Arcadian. The north-weft wind, blowing from thefe 
 rocks,, was called Sciron at Athens. 
 
 The name of the Scironian road is now, the robber being 
 forgotten, Kache Scala The bad way. In 1676 it was as terri- 
 ble from the ambufcades of the corfairs, as of old from the 
 cruelty of Sciron. It has fince been difufed, and a road made 
 over the mountain, on which the Turks have eftabliflied a 
 dervene or guard, with regulations to prevent the aflembling or 
 efcape of robbers and banditti. The diftance from Megara to 
 Corinth, which is now computed at nine hours, was by the 
 Scironian way only fix; but on it the traveller was in continual 
 peril. 
 
 We left our boats in the creek and afcended to an arched 
 cave in the rock, black with the fmoke of fires kindled by 
 travellers, who had refted there, or by mariners and fifhermen^ 
 who, like us, had declined venturing along fo dangerous a coaft 
 in the night, or waited for favourable weather. We had 
 from it an extenfive view of the turbulent gulf beneath, and 
 
 of 
 
198 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 of the illands. We made a fire, and remained in it until 
 morning. It then proved calm, and we re-embarked. 
 
 We coafted by the Scironian rocks, which are exceedingly 
 Jiigh, rough, and dreadful. The way is by the edge of per- 
 pendicular precipices, narrow, and in many places carried over 
 the breaks and fupported underneath apparently in fo flight 
 a manner, that a fpecflator may reafonably (liudder with horror 
 at the idea of crofling. Wheler has mentioned it as the 
 worft road, which he ever travelled. After much time con- 
 fumed in fcrambling up and down the precipices, he palled 
 along the iliore, under the mountain, and came to an antient 
 edifice three or four yards high and eight fquare, with 
 leveral large planks of marble lying about it, fome carved in 
 bafib relievo. This, he fuppofes, was the temple of Apollo. 
 
 We landed about noon in the diftridl called antiently Cro- 
 myonia lying between the Scironian way and the ifthmus of 
 Corinth. The valley was cultivated, and at fome diftance from 
 the fea were olive-groves with a village named Canetta. Nearer 
 the fhore were many fcattered flones with a carved fragment or 
 two ; veftiges of Cromyon. This town was one hundred and 
 fifty ftadia or eighteen miles and three quarters from Corinth. 
 It once belonged to Megara. There Pityocamptes, who in- 
 felled the entrance of the Ifthmus, was educated ; and beyond, 
 but near, was the fcene of the exploit of Thefeus. " The 
 *' pine, fays Paufimias, has grown until now by the fea-fide." 
 There alfo was an altar of Melicerte. They related that a 
 dolphin had tranfported his body to that fpot ; that it was 
 found by Sifyphus, king of Corinth ; and that he interred it on 
 the Ifthmus. 
 
 Some green famphire, Vv'hich we gathered on the Scironian 
 rocks, made part of our repaft at noon, after which we flept in 
 the fliade. We embarked again, and coafted a flat Ihore, and 
 
 in 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 199 
 
 in the evening landed about half a mile from a rivulet running 
 into the fea with a fhallow and lively current. There alfo were 
 marble fragments, a deferted church, and among the thickets 
 heaps of ftones, as by Megara ; reliques of the town of Sidus, 
 which was iituated between Cromyon and the Ifthmus. This 
 region alfo was once a portion of Ionia or Attica. After filling 
 our water-cafks we made a fire among the bufhes, and lay down 
 by it until the moon was fet. 
 
 CHAP. XLV. 
 
 Land on the ijihmus of Corinth — At Epidaurus and Methana — 
 On the ijlets in the gulf — At JEgina — On the ijland of 
 Salamis. 
 
 W E now were near the ifthmus of Corinth. Soon after 
 day-break we landed at the port of Schoenus, and afcended to 
 fome ruins. We met two or three goatherds, who conduced 
 us to their ftation, and protedied us from their dogs, which 
 were moft exceedingly fierce. They lamented, that wild beafts 
 often affailed their fold, and rendered a ftrong guard neceflary. 
 They treated us with new cheefe, curdled milk made four, and 
 with ordinary bread toafted on embers. They fpared us fome 
 provifions for our boats, and we feledled a fat kid from the 
 flock feeding among the pine-trees and thickets. We faw 
 feveral large lizards or camelions, of a vivid green colour. A 
 low root of mount Oneius extends along the ifthmus, and from 
 the brow I had a view of the two gulfs, the Saronic and the 
 Corinthian ; the latter fhining and placid, and feeming to pro- 
 mife a happy paflage from defolation and barbarifm. The port 
 of Schaenus was three hundred and fifty ftadia or forty three 
 miles and three quarters from the Piraeus. 
 
 One 
 
200 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 One of the goatherds aflifted in flaying and roafting the kid by 
 the fea-fide. We retired, after eating, to our boats ; and, an hour 
 or two before day-break, began filliing. We then fet fail, and, 
 leaving the port of Cenchrese and Corinth on our right, coafted 
 by a range of lofty mountains reaching into the water to Epi- 
 daurus a city of the Peloponnefus, and from thence we croffed 
 the bay to Methana. 
 
 We pafled from Methana to the mountainous ifland 
 Anchiftre, on which are a few cottages of Albanians, who 
 till the fcanty foil. We touched likewife on feveral of the 
 uninhabited rocks and iflets in the gulf, as diredled by the wind ; 
 rowing where the chanel was narrow ; often becalmed or wait- 
 ing for a fmoother fea ; and fometimes reduced to a fmaller 
 allowance of bread, wine, and water, than was agreeable. We 
 flept away the heat of noon in the fhade, and were employed 
 in rambling over our little territory, in fearching the tranfparent 
 waves along the fhore for fhell-fifla, or in fpreading our nets 
 during the abfence of the moon. We difcovered by the light 
 of a cedar-torch, a Murasna, a fiQi faid to copulate with ferpents j 
 refembling an eel, with bright yellow fpots. It was in fliallow 
 water, and was killed by the Albanian, who attacked it with a 
 knife, but cautioufly, fearing its bite, which is reputed venomous. 
 
 At length a briik gale fpringing up wafted us to the ifland 
 of i^gina, and increafing became very heavy ; attended with 
 rain. We had reafon to rejoice on reaching the fliore, though 
 it aflbrded no hofpitable cave or {helter from the weather. We 
 made fall to fome rocks in the lee not far from the barrow of 
 Phocus, and fpreading our fails on poles, tent-wife, over our 
 boats, remained there all night, wet and uncomfortable, tolled 
 on the waves and incommoded with the fmoke of our fires, 
 efpecially while our fifh were drefllng. The next day, the gale 
 abating, we failed on, and, leaving our boats, afcended to the 
 town of /Egina, where we tarried two days, the wind continu- 
 ing itrong and contrary. 
 
 A CALM 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 201 
 
 A CALM enfuing, we re-embarked, intending for the ifland 
 of Salamis, diftant by computation twelve miles from jiEgina. 
 The fun was fet, and we had rowed above half way, when 
 we began to hear the hollow-founding fury of the north-weft 
 wind or Sciron reigning afar off. The fea heaved, with the 
 furface lightly dimpled. The fwell increafed gradually, and 
 became very formidable to fmall open wherries ; the tempeft 
 flill raging remote from us. The moon fhined bright, 
 difclofing the head-lands and promontories ; the fky blue and 
 ftarry. Our men ftruggled with all their might to get under 
 the lee of the ifland of Salamis ; fearing, if the gale overtook 
 us, we fhould be forced out to fea ; and, after great labour, 
 fucceeded, much to our fatisfadlion in general, and more par- 
 ticularly to that of the young Albanian, who was exceedingly 
 terrified, making his crofles, and calling fervently on the Panagia 
 or Virgin Mary to deliver him from the danger he was in. We 
 lighted a fire and fupped on the fliore, and afterwards lay down 
 to fleep among the maftic-bufhes. A heavy dew fell in the 
 night. 
 
 CHAP. XLVI. 
 
 Of Salami's — I/Iefs — Fragments on Cynofura — 'Trophy for the 
 battle of Salamis — The city — Village of Albanians — Old 
 Salamis — The flower of Ajax. 
 
 THE ifland Salamis is of a very irregular fhape. It was 
 reckoned feventy or eighty ftadia' long, reaching weftward 
 as far as the mountains called Kerata or the Horns. The 
 Athenians and Megarenfians contended for it with obftinacy ; 
 and Solon or Pififtratus interpolated Homer to fhow it had 
 belonged to the Athenians, adding, in the catalogue of the 
 fhips, after '* Ajax came from Salamis with twelve vefTels," 
 that he itationed them with the Athenian fquadron. The city 
 
 • Eight miles and three quarters, or ten miles. 
 
 D d was 
 
202 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 was within Cynofura or the Dog's 'Tail, on the oppofite fide of 
 the bay. 
 
 I N the morning we coafled, and, paffing by a church on the 
 /here of Salamis dedicated to St. Nicholas the patron of iiflier- 
 men, came to Cynofura. We touched on Lipfocatalia, a rocky 
 and barren illet, antiently called Pfyttalia. It was fuppofed to 
 be frequented by the god Pan. There was no image of him 
 formed with art, but only rude reprefentations. Near Pfyttalia 
 was an iflet named Atalante ; and toward the Pirzeus, another* 
 alike rocky and barren. 
 
 I LANDED on Cynofura and examined fome remains, con-^ 
 iifting of a few ftones with a fragment or two of white marble, 
 while the wherries doubled the cape. We then croiTed over to 
 the oppofite coaft of the bay, where are veftiges of the city. 
 
 In Salamis, fays Paufanias, on this fide is a temple of Diana, 
 and on that has flood a trophy for the victory obtained by 
 Themiflocles, and there is the temple of Cychreus. The 
 trophy was probably a column adorned with arms, which had 
 been thrown down before his time. The remnants on Cynofura, 
 it has been fuppofed, belonged to this monument ; and the 
 defeat of the Barbarians, as thofe enemies of Greece were flyled, 
 may have given rife to the name Punto Barbara, by which the 
 cape is now diftinguifhed. The church of St. Nicholas perhaps 
 occupies the fite of the temple of Cychreus. A ferpent, which 
 was feen in the Athenian fhips while engaging the Medes, was 
 believed, on the authority of Apollo, to have been this hero. 
 
 The city of Salamis was demoliflied by the Athenians, be- 
 caufe in the war with Caffander it furrendered to the Macedo- 
 nians, from difaffedlion. In the fecond century, when it was 
 vifited by Paufanias, fome ruins of the Agora or market-place 
 remained, with a temple and image of Ajax ; and not far from 
 the port was fhown a ftone, on which, they related, Telamon 
 
 fate 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 203 
 
 fate to view the Salaminian fhips on their departure to join the 
 Grecian fleet at Aulis. The walls may ftill be traced, and, it 
 has been conjeftured, were about four miles in circumference. 
 The level fpace within them was now covered with green corn. 
 The port is choked with mud, and was partly dry. Among 
 the fcattered marbles are fome with infcriptions. One is of 
 great antiquity, before the introdudion of the Ionic alphabet. 
 On another, near the port, the name of Solon occurs. This 
 renowned law-giver was a native of Salamis, and a ftatue of 
 him was eredted in the market-place, with one hand covered 
 by his veft, the modeft attitude in which he was accuftomed to 
 addrefs the people of Athens. An infcription on black marble 
 was alfo copied in 1676 near the ruin of a temple, probably 
 that of Ajax. 
 
 The ifland of Salamis is now inhabited by a few Albanians, 
 who till the ground. Their village is called Ampelaki, the 
 Vineyard, and is at a diftance from the port, ftanding more 
 inland. In the church are marble fragments and fome infcrip- 
 tions, which I copied. Our hotel was a cottage without a 
 chimney. We were almofl blinded with the fmoke. At night 
 the mud-floor, on which we lay, was covered with men, 
 women, and children ; and under the fame roof was the poultry 
 and live-flock belonging to the family. 
 
 I MOUNTED an afs and went at break of day, with an 
 Albanian on foot, to examine a ftone in a ruinous church an 
 hour diftant, but found on it only rude fculpture which had 
 been miftaken for letters. Near it were falling cottages, the 
 remains of a deferted village j and farther on, the place where 
 we landed from JEgmz. It is likely, there was the fite of the 
 more antient city Salamis, Avhich was toward that ifland and the 
 fouth. A river was called Bocarus, afterwards Bocalias. It 
 was remarked, that the harvefl: commenced more early than 
 about Athens. 
 
 D d 2 The 
 
204 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 The botanical traveller may be amufed with fearching for a 
 flower, which, as the Salaminians related, was firft obferved on 
 the death of Ajax. It is defcribed as white, inclining to red, 
 the leaves lefs than in a lily and bearing the letters which are 
 on the hyacinth. 
 
 CHAP. XLVII. 
 
 An antient oracle — Hhe battle of Salamis—- Flight of the Per" 
 
 fan fleet. 
 
 HERODOTUS has recorded an antient oracle, which 
 was to be fulfilled, when fliips fhould form a bridge between 
 the fea-wafhed Cynofura and the facred ihore of Diana, or 
 , acrofs the mouth of the bay of Salamis. This term was be- 
 lieved to have been accomplifhed in the firft year of the feventy 
 fifth Olympiad', when that portion of the ftrait became the 
 fcene of the famous battle, which delivered Greece from the 
 incurfions of the Medes. 
 
 Xerxes, after reducing the citadel of Athens, repaired to 
 Phalerum, where his fleet lay. It was agreed in council to 
 attack the Grecian fleet, which had afl'embled in the bay of 
 Salamis. The fhips approached the ifland. A report that the 
 Greeks intended to fly toward the Ifthmus was credited, and 
 the Medes determined to prevent their efcape. At midnight the 
 leading fquadron moved filently on, circling in toward Salamis ; 
 and the fhips about Ceos, probably the iflet next to the Piraeus, 
 and about Cynofura likewife advancing, the whole ftrait was 
 occupied, quite from Munychia. A body of Perfians was 
 
 • In the year before Chrift, 478. 
 
 ftationed 
 
Th/i/rr p.-zo4. 
 
 ^ ^v||vit|\ 
 
 &lgrsr'd liiy Ttin' ICrtf hi n . 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 205 
 
 ftatloned on Pfyttalla to affift the men and difabled veffels, which 
 fhould fwini or float thither, or to deftroy them, if enemies. 
 The morning dawned, and the Greeks advanced from Salamis. 
 The Corinthian admiral, who was irrefolute, failed away with 
 his fquadron as far as the temple of Minerva Sciras, which was 
 in the out-fkirts of Salamis, and returned. The Athenians 
 were oppofite to the Phoenicians, who were on the right of the 
 Perfian line ; and the Lacedaemonians to the lonians, who were 
 on the left'. The Barbarians fled toward Phalerum. The 
 iEginetans intercepted them at the mouth of the flrait, and, 
 during the confufion, a party from Salamis landing on Pfyttalia 
 cut the Perfians there in pieces. The number, according to 
 Paufanias, was four hundred. Xerxes was a fpedtator of this 
 adtion, fitting on mount JEgaleos ; and, as one author relates, 
 above the Heracleium. Another has placed him on Kerata, 
 but that mountain is too remote to be even a probable ftation. 
 The filver-footed chair, which he ufed, was preferved for many 
 ages among the Perfian fpoils in the Acropolis. 
 
 Xerxes, after his defeat, gave orders as if he defigned to 
 renew the fight, and to pafs his army over into the ifland ; 
 preparing to join it to the continent by a mole, where the ftrait 
 was only two lladia wide. His fleet abandoned Phalerum in the 
 night, and hafl:ened back to the Hellefpont to fecure his retreat 
 into Afia. Miftaking the fmall capes and iflets by the promon- 
 tory Zofter for fhips, it fled with all poflSble fpeed. 
 
 ' Diodorus places the Athenians and Lacedaemonians on the left of the Greek 
 line, oppofite to the Phoenicians ; the ^ginetans and Megarenfians on the right j 
 the other Greeks in the centre, p. 417. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
2o6 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 CHAP. XLVIII. 
 
 Intended rout from Athens — Prepare for our departure — At 
 the Plrceus — Embark — Land on Mwiychia — Pafs a haunted 
 rock — Land on an ijlet — On Mgina. 
 
 A LETTER from Mr. Fauquier which I received on 
 the twenty fifth of April, dated London February the eleventh 
 1766, contained dirediions from the committee of Dilet- 
 tanti to return, if it appeared fafe and prafticable, through 
 the Morea, and by Corfu to Brindifi, and thence through Magna 
 Grecia to Naples. 
 
 The cranes, which returned to Athens in the fpring and 
 made their nefls on the houfes, chimnies, and ruins in the 
 town, had reared their young, and were feen daily as it were 
 exercifing before their flight, high in the air, with continued 
 gyrations; when we alfo began to prepare for our departure. 
 We hired a fmall felucca of Hydre, with feven men and two 
 boys, which waited for us in the Piraeus. The marbles, which 
 I had colledled, with our provilions and baggage, were re- 
 moved on horfes to the fea-fide, and put on board without being 
 examined at the cuftom-houfe. This exemption was proffered 
 to us as a token of regard by the Vaiwode, but Lombardi 
 required of me a number of piafters, which, he pretended, it 
 was neceflary to diftribute privately among the farmers and 
 officer* of the revenue. The Difdar had requefted one of our 
 ladders, which were much admired, and we fent it to him in 
 the Acropolis. We reftored to the owners fome of our furni- 
 ture, which had been borrowed, and gave the remainder to our 
 friends and domeflics. 
 
 The twenty firft of June was the day fixed for our 
 removal. Among other civilities at parting, I was prefented 
 
 with 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 207 
 
 with a very fine pomgranate, accompanied with a wifh, that 
 I might reach home as found in body and as full of knowlege. 
 We fet out in the evening for the Piraeus, attended by Ifofime 
 and a tall Greek named Coletti, who had been in England, and 
 was our neighbour ; forming, as ufual, a long and motley 
 cavalcade. A croud, afTembled about our gate, followed us 
 with wifhes of a profperous voyage and fpeedy return, believing, 
 as they had been told by Lombardi, that we intended to pafs 
 the winter at Athens. We were joined on the road by Ofman 
 Tyralee Aga, a Turk, who had frequently vifited us. The 
 harveft was then far advanced ; the fheaves of corn lying col- 
 lefted in the open air, by the floors ; or horfes running in a 
 ring three or four abreaft round a pole to tread out the grain. 
 We repaired to the chamber of the cuftom-houfe, in which we 
 had tarried on our firft arrival in the port, and fupped fitting 
 crofs-legged on a carpet. The archon had provided a gourd of 
 choice wine, and one of our crew excelled on the lyre. It was 
 late at night, when our friends rofe, and bidding us adieu 
 gallopped away toward Athens. 
 
 Early in the morning we embarked, with two live Iambs, 
 George Vandoro a Greek of Patras our cook, Michaeli a youth 
 of Athens and his brother Conftantine, our Swifs, a Janizary, 
 and Lombardi, who had refolved to accompany us to the borders 
 of Turkey ; befides an adventurer of Corfu, whom we indulged 
 with his paflage homeward. This wanderer was a man of a 
 decent and plaufible carriage. He had been diftrefl^ed for money, 
 and imprifoned at Athens, and owed his enlargement to our 
 compaflion, which he repaid with difhonefty and deceit. We 
 rowed by a French veflfel, which was waiting in the Piraeus to 
 lade with corn ; leaving an Albanian youth named Sideri, who 
 had lived with us, crying on the fhore. 
 
 The wind being foutherly, when we got out of the Piraeus, 
 we put into a fmall creek of the peninfula on our left, which 
 was once encircled with a wall of excellent mafonry, as appears 
 
 from 
 
2o8 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 from the remains, belonging to the fortrefs of Munychia. By 
 the fea-fide is a large fragment of a marble column. The rock 
 was incrufled with fait, white and pure, formerly an article of 
 commerce, and, with the wood, rented of the public. Our 
 men made a tent of the fail and oars to Ihelter us from the fun, 
 and coUedbed the low flirubs and arid herbage to drefs our 
 provifions. 
 
 We waited for a wind until the following day, when we 
 failed, three hours after noon, fleering toward the weft end of 
 iEgina. We were becalmed about mid-way, and rowed by a 
 rock or iflet, which the mariners fay is haunted ; murmurings 
 and frightful voices being heard on it, perhaps the beating of 
 the waves and the cry of amphibious animals, fuch as the Phocaj 
 or fea-calves, which occafionally repair to land ; and nightly 
 goblins ill-treating thofe who are forced to tarry in bad weather. 
 
 We went on fhore on an Iflet between Mglna and Salamis, 
 where we found plenty of fea-chefnuts. The rock was bare, 
 except a few flirubs and ftunted trees, but abounded in locufts 
 continually rifing, as we moved through the parched herbage, 
 and fettling again after a fhort flight. The amazing fwarms of 
 thefe infers feen in countries not commonly infefted with them, 
 it is likely, are formed when provifions are fcanty at home j 
 hunger forcing them to affemble to be wafted by the wind to 
 regions of a moifler temperature, where vegetables continue to 
 flourifli. Among the bufhes I difcovered an infedl of a fpecies 
 lefs common, refembling the tendril of a vine. It was moving, 
 the colour a lively green. Naturalifts have named it 'T/je ivalk- 
 jng Jlick \ This, and almoft every rock, has on it a ruinous 
 church. The fun, which was now fetting behind the pic- 
 turefque iflands and mountains, coloured heaven and earth 
 with a rich variety of exquilite tints. Our crew refted after 
 their labour in the boat, made faft to the fhore, on which we 
 
 » See Edwards, pi. 288, c. 78, part 2d. 
 
 lay 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 209 
 
 lay among cedar-trees and thickets of maftic. In the night a 
 great dew fell. 
 
 Early in the morning we had a favourable breeze, of 
 fhort duration. We had purpofed to examine again the fite of 
 iEgina, but on opening the port faw in it a large Saite or vefTel 
 at anchor. A Barbary cruifer had lately appeared off Sunium. 
 Several in the boat were feized with panic fear, and called out 
 to the captain to fteer to the fliore, which was at a little dif- 
 tance. We determined, however, to row on, when the hang- 
 ing out of a piece of linen to dry fpread new terror, fome infill- 
 ing it was a lignal for us to go on board. We pafled a rock 
 named Mone, and putting into a bay of yEgina called Perthica 
 dined by a well of cold water, under a thick and wide-fpread- 
 ing fig-tree, beneath which we would have flept at noon, but 
 our mariners affirmed, the fhade was bad, that we fhould rife 
 heavy and with the head-ach. Our water-calks were carried 
 to be filled at a better fpring near a mile diftant by a metochi 
 or farm, where we procured green almonds, and were informed 
 that the vefTel, which had caufed our conflernation, was from 
 Crete, manned with Turks, waiting to load with corn. The 
 wind being contrary, we pafTed the night on the rocks near our 
 boat« 
 
 CHAP. XLIX. 
 
 Sail from Mgina — 1'he ijland and town of Foro — 'The tnonaflery 
 — Way to Calaurea — Of the city — T'he refnains —' A goat- 
 herd, 
 
 I N the morning we fet fail from ^gina for Poro, a fmall 
 ifland near the coafl of the Morea, diftant about fixteen miles. 
 The fair gale foon failed, and the land-breeze was heard coming 
 from the peninfula of Methana, making the water foam before 
 
 E e it. 
 
210 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 it. The fea-breeze was next feen at a diftance, and for fome 
 minutes we were between both, becalmed. Each then prevailed 
 by turns, and, as it were to decide the conflid;, eddies and 
 whirls of wind interpofed from the mountains on the coaft 
 of the Morea. One moment our fails were to be furled j 
 then to be loofed ; now we obeyed this, and prefently another 
 guft J turning to and fro as in a labyrinth. The addrefs of the 
 crew in Shifting and adjufting the rigging and fails could be 
 exceeded only by the fagacity of our caraboucheri or captain, 
 who forefaw and foretold the changes, though feemingly inftan- 
 taneous. At length, perplexed and apprehenfive of fome un- 
 lucky accident, as the felucca had been lately overfet and was 
 now deep laden, he ordered the men to lower the yards and to 
 row. A fair gale fucceeded, and about noon we arrived at 
 Pore, 
 
 The ifland Poro was antiently named Calaurea, and reckoned 
 thirty fladia or three miles and three quarters in circumference. 
 It flretches along before the coaft of the Morea in a lower ridge, 
 and is feparated from it by a canal only four ftadia or half a 
 mile wide. This, which is called Poro or the Ferry, in ftill 
 weather may be pafled on foot, as the water is not deep. It 
 has given its name to the ifland, and to the town, which confifts 
 of about two hundred houfes, mean and low, with flat roofs j 
 riflng on the flope of a bare difagreeable rock. The inhabitants 
 are fupplied with wood for fuel chiefly from the continent. In 
 a church is a Latin infcription, with two in the Italian language, 
 recording a young Venetian, who died of the plague in 1688 
 and was buried there ; and alfo a furgeon named Altomirus, 
 who was inconfolable for the lofs of his friend. In another 
 church is a fmall round fl;one in the middle of the floor, the 
 margin infcribed in Latin " Here Altomirus mourned." 
 
 After a (hort fl:ay at Poro, we rowe with a turbulent fea 
 through the flrait round a point of land, and, opening the mouth 
 of the gulf, hoifted fail for the monafliery of the Panagia or 
 
 Virgin 
 
2m face par^e -tfc 
 
 # ■ .— Jw. 
 
 
 
 St'fili' in'' Toist^^w 
 
 ^'tv» AVf' ^^'^^ j?^**> jy/t* 
 
 
 .&, 
 
 ■^»^^' 
 
 ^i*^^ 
 
 tf 
 
 •ifForr 
 
 lload 
 
 
 ,5* 5^'' 
 
 
 T/iT^C/i.miul 
 
 
 .'ASs^ 
 
 "s^.-. 
 
 ■*,-'^ 
 
 KAL. A 
 
 
 ..4feife>- 
 
 ,4^- 
 
 i^..«- ■"•- e^^>;?::'! 
 
 '?'«-. 
 
 ^latflT/MUi 
 
 .:^ 
 
 J^-S^- 
 
 
 tie- »• J-'' 
 
 \<' ' 
 
 
 l\V^ 
 
 y. ,-..,.1 
 
 ^^II,''*.--:^^^- 
 
 s^ J^ ', 
 
 \'J 
 
 it ' ^ . ■, > 
 
 ^'' 
 
 \ 
 
 
 - — /.V ~ " - - 
 
 ^•\ 
 
 ^A^-> 
 
 .i^at a Root 
 
 -Z- 
 
 ^-_ of Tie r^ ^ f4| 
 lUBOfR i'/'TRiCEZJEJ;^ 
 
 — — and of Tlie 
 
 SLA^fD of CALAtrB:EA'"|'\i 
 
 T.^r7iin Scufy>. 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 211 
 
 Virgin Mary. The wind was rough, and foon blew off two 
 of our hats. One was recovered by a boy who fwamj the 
 other, with a handkerchief in it to defend the head from the 
 power of the fun, was carried away on the waves. We landed 
 and went to the monaftery, which is at fome diftance from the 
 fea, the fituation high and romantic, near a deep torrent-bed. 
 It was furrounded by green vineyards ; thickets of myrtle, 
 orange and lemon-trees, in bloflbm ; the arbutus with fruit, 
 large but unripe j the oleander or picro-daphne, and the olive, 
 laden with flowers ; fweet-fmelling pines and evergreens. Op- 
 pofite is a fountain much celebrated. The water is cold, and 
 of a quality very beneficial to perfons indifpofed from drinking 
 a harder and lefs wholfome fluid. We found there a papas or 
 priefl:, with fome monks, and were fupplied with good wine 
 and proviflons and with plenty of almonds gathered frefh from 
 the trees. 
 
 We fet out from the monaftery for Palatia, i/ie Pa/aces, as 
 the fite of the city Calaurea is now called, at day-break, mounted 
 on mules and afl"es, refpedlable as well as ufeful animals in thefe 
 mountainous regions. We were attended by two or three men 
 on foot, to chide our beaflis in a language which they underftood, 
 and to goad them on, when lazy. We had no bridle or halter, 
 but were inftrudted to guide themj holding a ftick, if we wanted 
 them to turn, on the oppofite fide of the head ; and between 
 the ears, if to fl:and ftill. We pafl'ed by a large refer voir or 
 cifl:ern made at a confiderable expenfe, into which the water of 
 feveral rills is colledled to be ufed in agriculture. The track 
 leading to Palatia, diftant about an hour from the fea, is rough 
 and rugged. Beyond that place is a fountain eredled by a Turk, 
 the water not inferior to that of the monaftery ; and by it a 
 grove of lemon-trees. The fruit was contratfled for at feventy 
 peraus or about three fliillings a thoufand. 
 
 Neptune v;as faid to have accepted the ifland of Calaurea 
 from Apollo in exchange for Delos. The city ftood on a high 
 
 E e 2 ridge 
 
212 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 ridge nearly in the middle of the ifland, commanding an ex- 
 tenfive view of the gulf and its coafls. There was his holy 
 temple. The prieftefs was a virgin, who was difmifTed when 
 marriageable. Seven of the cities near the ifland held a congrefs 
 at it, and facrificed jointly to the deity. Athens, vEgina, and 
 Epidaurus were of this number, with Nauplia, for which place 
 Argos contributed. The Macedonians, when they had reduced 
 Greece, were afraid to violate the fandluary, by forcing from 
 it the fugitives, his fuppliants. Antipater commanded his 
 general to bring away the orators, who had offended him, alive; 
 but Demofthenes could not be prevailed on to furrender. His 
 monument remained in the fecond century, within the inclofure 
 of the temple. 
 
 The city of Calaurea has been long abandoned. Traces of 
 buildings and of antient walls appear, nearly level with the 
 ground ; and fome flones, in their places, each with a feat and 
 back, forming a little circle, once perhaps a bath. The temple, 
 which was of the Doric order, and not large, as may be in- 
 ferred from the fragments, is reduced to an inconfiderable heap 
 of ruins. The flone is of a dark colour. We found three 
 pedeftals, of blue veined marble. One, which is infcribed, 
 has fupported a ftatue of king Eumenes, eredted by the city as 
 an acknowlegement of his virtues and of his fervices to the God, 
 to the Calaureans, and other Greeks. Many pieces lay ready, 
 cut to the fize which is a load for a mule, to be carried down 
 to the fliore and embarked for the ifland of Hydre, where a 
 monaftery was then building. Our guide was a mafon who had 
 been long employed in dellroying thefe remnants of antiquity. 
 
 Among the iflanders who repaired to us at the monaflery 
 was a young goatherd, with a fheep from the fold. It happened 
 that one of us pulled out a watch, when he flared with a 
 face of wonder not to be defcribed. Being afked, if he knew 
 what it was, he replied, he could not tell, unlefs it were a fnuff- 
 box. Perceiving his anfwer occafioned a fmile, he added with 
 
 fome 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 213 
 
 fome warmth, " How fhould I know ? I walk the mountains." 
 We endeavoured in vain to make him comprehend the ufe and 
 nature of that curious and with us common machine. 
 
 CHAP. L. 
 
 Sail up the harbour of 'Trcezen — Land on the pentnfula of Methana 
 — T!he bay or lake — Of T'rcezen — 'The ruins — The Acro- 
 polis — The water — Of Damald — A proverbial faying. 
 
 AFTER waiting fome time for a favourable wind, we left 
 the monaftery, in the morning, and croffed to the oppofite fhorc 
 of the Morea. We landed on a fpot called Palsochorio or old 
 Town, and found there part of an ordinary Mofaic pavement, a 
 piece or two of marble, fome mean ruins, and a folitary church. 
 About noon the wind, as was expected, became fair, fetting 
 into the canal. We paffed by the town of Poro, and opened 
 the ftrait between the ifland and the peninfula of Methana^ 
 through which we had entered. We now failed on, with the 
 main land on our left, up a bay, once named Pogon or the 
 Beard. It is fheltered by Calaurea on the eaft, and was the 
 harbour of Trcezen, in which a fquadron of the Grecian fleet 
 aflTembled before the battle of Salamis., 
 
 Troezen was fifteen ftadia or almofl: two miles from the 
 fea. A town named Damala or Thamala is now near the fite.^ 
 We purpofed going to this place, but found the water fo fhallow 
 at the top of the bay, that we could not approach the ihore. 
 We moored at fome dillance to a rock by a point of the pen- 
 infula. On this fpot a frnall fortrefs had been ercdted. We 
 could trace the two fide walls running up from the fea, with 
 two round towers at the angles, inland. Thefe remnants are 
 thick, and of the mafonry ftyled Incertum. From an eminence, 
 not far off, a column as it were of fmoke afcended, which we 
 
 were 
 
214 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 were told was duft from winnowed corn ; the peafants throwing 
 up the grain and chaff together to be feparated and cleanfed by 
 the wind. We could procure no animals to convey us to 
 Damala before the morning, {o we lay down to fleep among 
 the buihes. The air was filled with noifome vapours from the 
 dirty ftagnant bay and its putrefying weeds. Sv\'arms of gnats 
 buzzed about, and preyed on us inceffantly. Frogs croaked. 
 Dogs barked, and the (hepherds on the mountains hallooed to 
 encourage them to attack the wild beafts, which approached 
 their charge. 
 
 Saron, one of the early kings of Trcezen, founded a temple 
 of Diana by this fea. The water was there fo iliallow and 
 muddy that it was called the Phosbaean lake. He was addidted 
 to the chace, and following a Doe, which fwam out into the 
 deep, was drowned. His body was thrown afhore by the 
 grove, and buried within the inclofure of the temple ; and from 
 him the lake was named the Saronian. The fens at this feafon 
 were dry, or much contradted by the power of the fun. In the 
 morning we croffed over to that fliore, and riding through a flat 
 marfty tradt covered with tall rufhes arrived at Damala in 
 about an hour. We were then informed, that the ruins, for 
 which we enquired, were a quarter of an hour farther on i and 
 we continued our journey. 
 
 Troezen was once no ignoble city. It had been called 
 Pofidonia from Neptune. They related, that this deity and 
 Minerva had contended for their country, and, by command of 
 Jupiter, polfeffed it jointly ; the reafon, why their money was 
 /lamped with her head and a trident. Trcezen and Pittheus 
 were fons of Pelops. Pittheus gave to the city the name of his 
 brother, whom he fucceeded ; but the people were called from 
 him Pittheidae. He was the maternal grandfather of Thefeus. 
 The place was fhown, where this hero was born ; with the 
 rock, under which ^geus depofited his fword and flippers, on 
 the way to Hermione. In the agora or market-place was a 
 
 temple 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 215 
 
 temple of Diana, where, it was faid, Hercules came up from 
 hell with Cerberus. Behind, was the monument of Pittheus ; 
 and not far off, a temple of the Mufes, with an antient altar, on 
 which the Troezenians facrificed to them and to Sleep ; affirm- 
 ing, that of all the deities this was the moft friendly to the 
 Mufes. The temple of Apollo founded by Pittheus exceeded in 
 age any temple known to Paufanias. The temple of Minerva 
 at Phocaea and that of Apollo Pythius at Samos were by far 
 more modern. The ftoa or portico of the market-place was 
 adorned with ftatues, reprefenting fome of the Athenian matrons 
 and their children, who were fent to this city for fafety before 
 the battle of Salamis. Near the Theatre was a temple of 
 Diana eredted by Hippolytus. This hero had a facred portion 
 with a temple and image, and was honoured with yearly facri- 
 lices. The priefthood was for life, and it was the cuftom for 
 virgins before their nuptials to cut off one of the treffes of their 
 hair, and to carry it as an offering to the temple. Within the 
 inclofure was a temple of Apollo dedicated by Diomed on his 
 efcape from the ftorm which happened on his return from Troy. 
 Againft the inclofure was part of the ftadium of Hippolytus, as 
 it was called ; and above, a temple of Venus the SpeSiator, 
 where Phxdra beheld him at his exercifes. A myrtle, which 
 grew there, produced leaves full of holes, as they afferted, from 
 the time of her diftradtion, when fhe perforated the foliage 
 with the clafp of her hair. Her tomb was not far from 
 the barrow of Hippolytus, which was near the myrtle, 
 but not acknowleged by the Trcszenians. They denied that 
 he was dragged by horfes and killed -, fuppofing him to have 
 been changed into the conftellation called the Charioteer. The 
 temple of Neptune was without the city-wall. They flyled him 
 Plant-falter, becaufe, in his anger, he had permitted the fea- 
 water to penetrate to the roots and feeds ; rendering the land 
 barren. They claimed the god Orus as a native, and, if any 
 people, were given to embellifli their city with local ftories. 
 Its territory included the peninfula of Methana, and the pro- 
 montory Scyllaeum. A road between the mountains led to 
 
 Hermione, 
 
2i6 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 Hermione, which city was diftant about eighty ftadia or ten 
 miles from Scyllaeum. Our mariners called it Caftri, and had 
 been employed in tranfporting materials from it to the monaf- 
 tery building at Hydre. 
 
 The ruins of Trcezen are moftly in the plain at the foot of 
 a lofty range of mountains croffing from the Saronian lake or 
 bay to the gulf of Epidauria. The fite, with the whole 
 ifthmus, is overrun with bufhes, but fome fpots produce corn 
 and cotton. Many rills of water defcend from the mountains, 
 and are conduded and diftributed as the crops and foil require. 
 The fcattered churches are numerous, and occupy, it is likely, 
 the places of the temples. In feveral are infcribed pedeftals. 
 The veftiges, with pieces of wall and remnants of brick buildings, 
 fpread to a conliderable extent ; the fpace difpofed in terraces, 
 the areas clear, with rubbifh lying along the edges. The prin- 
 cipal ruin feems to have been the fubftrudtion or bafement of 
 the temple of Venus, and on three fides is of the mafonry 
 termed Incertum. It ftands on an eminence, overlooking the 
 -cavity of the ftadium, and has on it fome remnants of a later 
 ftrudlure. Theodore, the general who preferved Greece in the 
 time of Theodofius the firft, was a great benefadtor to this 
 place. Befides faving the city by the wifdom of his councils, 
 he bequeathed a large fum of money to the public. He was 
 rewarded, as ufual, with ftatues ; and in one of the infcriptions 
 the people are diftinguiflied by their old name Pittheidas. 
 
 The acropolis or citadel of Trcezen was on the top of one 
 of the mountains, which tower high above the plain. There 
 was anticntly a temple of Minerva. We had been told at 
 Damala that many ruins remained, and I was unwilling to defer 
 the examination, as our recent fufferings and the reputed un- 
 healthinefs of this tra<5t had rendered us all eager to be gone. 
 It was near noon, and the fun reigned in a cloudlefs fky, when 
 'I began to afcend. The rock was heated fo much that it could 
 not be handled in climbing without pain j and the way was im- 
 
 peded 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 217 
 
 peded with loofe ftones and loVv dry fhrubs and parched herbage, 
 which crackled, and bh'nded me in paffing with duft and down. 
 After frequent paufes to obtain refrefhment from fcanty fhade 
 and water, I attained to the fummit, with the afliftance of a 
 Greek fervant and a failor ; and found only the rubbifh of fome 
 churches, with two fragments of marble infcribed. We tarried 
 awhile to recover from our fatigue, and to enjoy a moft exten- 
 five profped: ; and then defcended by a better track toward 
 Damala. A gentle breeze, which had fprung up, was of fignal 
 fervice to us, the air in the lee of the rocks feeling alnioft as 
 fire. 
 
 In our way down from the fummit, or on the eaftern fide, 
 we crofTed a torrent-bed -, and on the other is a ftream more 
 confiderable, with a mill at the mountain-foot, by which a man 
 was treading milk in a fkin to make butter. One of thefe was 
 called Chryforrhoas, t/je Golden, becaufe it had continued to 
 flow after a drought of nine years, when the other fprings failed. 
 The fountain of Hercules in the city, and one named Hippo- 
 crene, was fupplied from thefe hills. But it was remarked, 
 that the waters of Troezen rifing from fources like the Athe- 
 nian partook of the fame bad properties, afFedting the nerves 
 and feet; nor could better be procured by digging wells. 
 
 I WAS direded at Damala to the houfe of a Greek prieft, to 
 which my companions had repaired from the ruins. The town 
 is fmall and fituated on the mountain-fide. It inherits the 
 {linking atmofphere as well as the bad water of Trcezen. The 
 inhabitants are of a fallow complexion, and Auguft is com- 
 monly a month of great mortality. It is the fee of a bifhop, 
 and noted for being frequently vacant, as it then was ', the 
 occupier feldom long furviving his new dignity. 
 
 A PROVERBIAL faying, the bljhop of Damala, is current tti 
 
 thefe parts, and applied to perfohs who fuffer by their own 
 
 indifcretion. The ftory is fimple enough. He was prefented 
 
 F f with 
 
2i8 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 with fome fiflies, offended at their fize, and, being told that 
 fuch only could be procured, refolved to attend the trial. The 
 boat was furprized by a Barbary cruifer. He was carried into 
 flavery, and employed to grind wheat, and at the fame time to 
 rock a child ; until he moved the compaffion of his owner by 
 finging fome words, which he compofed, void of poetry, but 
 expreflive of his folly and its confequences. I fliall infert them 
 from a copy written by the prieft, as a fpecimen of the verfifi- 
 cation and language of modern Greece. 
 
 f^rtj ]i vQ. fxyjlif^niccXa,— 
 
 xyva,. '^Afk-uTorTz-aXo. 
 
 A Bifhop without brain or fenfe, 
 Deferving fuch a recompenfe ! 
 With fmaller fillies not content — 
 Author of thine own punifhment ! 
 Turn, turn the mill, a fit employ. 
 And lull to fleep the Arab-boy. 
 
 CHAP. LI. 
 
 Ibe gulf of Epidauria — Of Methana — An antient charm- — 
 A hot fpring — "The ijlets — Of Epidaurus — The harbour. 
 
 W E returned to the fhore in the evening from Damala, and 
 before night landed on the ifland Calaurea. The next day we 
 fent fome men in the boat for provifions to the town of Poro. 
 They came back at noon. We failed, and landed again on the 
 peninfula of Methana, on the fide toward Attica. Here was a 
 
 ruined 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 219 
 
 ruined church, with a well. The mountain was bare and black, 
 a fire having lately confumed the wood. We lay among huge 
 fingle rocks, fome poifed, as it were, on a point. In the 
 morning we embarked haftily with a fair breeze; which failing, 
 we continued for fome hours on a fmooth fea, expofed to the 
 intenfe heat of a cloudlefs fun. We pafled between fome iflets, 
 and entered a gulf or deep bay, in which is Methana j with 
 Epidaurus oppofite, but nearer the mouth. 
 
 Methana or Methone was a fmall city on the weftern fide 
 of the peninfula. The name is ftill retained. The acropolis 
 or citadel was on a mountain moderately high ; rough, and partly 
 inacceflible. The wall was of excellent mafonry, and has been 
 repaired, but is again in ruins. I faw an imperfedl infcription 
 by the entrance of a church, on the fite perhaps of the temple 
 of Ifis, but without a roof. Round about the rock were many 
 fences of piled fliones, inclofing in April, when I was there, 
 ploughed fields and negledled churches. The face of the 
 country was then brown and difmal. A femicircular range of 
 mountains rifes behind. 
 
 Pausanias relates, that he wondered moft at a device ufed 
 at Methana to avert Libs or the fouth-wefl: wind, which, com- 
 ing from the Saronic gulf, withered the vine*, when in bud. 
 A douple of men, while it was blowing, divided a cock v/ith 
 white feathers into two parts, and running in a contrary direc- 
 tion encompafi'ed the vineyards, each bearing a portion. They 
 buried the cock on their arrival at the place, from whence they 
 had ilarted. 
 
 The hot baths were computed about thirty ftadia or three 
 miles and three quarters from Methana. The fpring appeared 
 firft when Antigonus fon of Demetrius reigned in Macedonia, 
 after a fiery eruption from a volcano, which raifed in a level 
 plain a mountain feven ftadia or near a mile high ; for fome time 
 inacceffible by day on account of the heat and the flrong fulphureous 
 
 F f 2 . odour ; 
 
220 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 odour ; but at night, fmelling agreeably, fliining at a great 
 diilance, and affording warmth. The fea, which boiled with 
 the lava as far out aa five ftadia or above half a mile, was dif- 
 turbed twenty ftadia or two miles and a half; and rocks were 
 extant in it, not lefs than towers. The flame dying away, a 
 current, warm and exceedingly fait, fucceededj but no cold 
 water was found there, and fwimming in the bay was dangerous, 
 it abounding with other monfters, and with dog-fifh. This 
 fpring is on the fide of the mountain, by a village, which is in 
 view ; and tinges the foil near it with the colour of ochre. 
 Ovid has defcribed the alteration of this fpot in a fpeech of 
 Pythagoras to Numa. 
 
 The rocks before Methana, in the mouth of the bay, were 
 called the ijlets of Pelops. They were nine in number; produced, 
 it is likely, by the volcano, and once bare. Some flirubs grow 
 on them, and we found water to fill our cafks, with a ruined 
 church or two. It was antiently affirmed, that on one no rain 
 ever fell. Our author knew not whether this were true; but 
 relates, that he had feen men by facrifices and incantations turn 
 away hail. An ifland named Sphaera, and afterwards Hiera, 
 was perhaps more within the bay. There was a monument, it 
 was faid, of Sphaerus, who drove the chariot of Pelops, and 
 a temple of Minerva, in which the virgins of Troezen confe- 
 crated their zones, before marriage. The fame offering is ftill 
 feen in the churches at Athens, with towels richly embroidered, 
 and various other articles. The water was fordable, and it may 
 be fufpedled that this ifland, which was near, is now joined to 
 the main land. 
 
 Epidaurus was no obfcure city. It flood in a recefs of 
 the Saronic gulf, fronting the eaft, and was fortified by nature, 
 being inclofed by high mountains reaching to the fea, and ren- 
 dering it difficult of accefs. It had temples, and in the acropo- 
 lis or citadel was a remarkable ftatue of Minerva. The fite is 
 now called Epi-thavro. The traces are indiflind, and it has 
 
 probably 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 221 
 
 probably been long deferted. In April it was fown with corn, 
 or over-run with bulhes, flowering ftirubs, cedars, and almond- 
 trees ; the afpedl frefh and pleafing. We found plenty of wild 
 afparagus ; a maimed ftatue of bad workmanfhip, the pofture 
 recumbent ; fome maffes of ftone, brick, and rubbifh ; a few 
 pieces of marble and a fepulchral infcription, aaesanapea xaipe 
 Alexandrea fareivell. 
 
 The harbour of Epidaurus is long. Its periplus or circuit 
 was fifteen fladia or near two miles. The entrance is between 
 mountains, and on a fmall rocky peninfula on the left hand are 
 ruins of a modern fortrefs. This, it feems, was the point on 
 which a temple of Juno flood. It is frequented by velTels for 
 wood or corn; and near the upper end is a beautiful young 
 palm-tree, flourifhing by the fea-fide. 
 
 CHAP. Lir. 
 
 Land in Epidauria — Set out on foot for the grove of Mfculapius 
 — At Ligurid' — 'The evening — Remains by Ligurid. 
 
 W E landed in the Morea, about half an hour from Epi-ya- 
 tha, a village on a high mountain, by a large fortrefs, in view; 
 about two hours from Epidaurus, which is more within the 
 bay ; intending to vifit the grove of iEfculapius and his temple, 
 which was five miles from that city. We fent to Epi-yatha, but 
 the people were engaged in harveft-work, and their beafts could 
 not be fpared. The locufts were very numerous. Night ap- 
 proached. We lay on the fhore, not far from a fmall lake run- 
 ning into the fea, the ftream full of fifh, and fupplied by cold 
 and clear water rufliing in, very copioufly, from beneath a rock. 
 We made fires of cow-dung, hoping the fmoke would drive 
 away the gnats, but were ftill tormented by them exceedingly. 
 
 Our 
 
222 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 Our meflengers returned again from EpI-yatha, early in the 
 morning, and informed us, that no hearts could be procured. 
 We were impatient to change our quarters. Our fleep had been 
 much diflurbed j the air was reputed very unhealthy ; and the 
 wine, being impregnated with lime, was deemed as ruin- 
 ous to the ftomach and as intoxicating as pleafant to the eye and 
 tafte. I now determined to tarry there no longer, and taking 
 an umbrella fct out on toot, attended by our ianizary, a fervant, 
 and two failors, armed and carrying provilioni and other necef- 
 faries. We palled by the fortrefs of Epi-yatha, over hills, and 
 through dales and ripe corn. The ftreams and fountains, which 
 occurred on the way, with the myrtles and ever-greens in the 
 water-courfes, afforded us refrclhment ; or the exceifjve heat of 
 the fun would have been infupportable. It was mid-day when 
 we arrived greatly fatigued at Ligurio. 
 
 LiGURio is the name of four feparate villages, or of a 
 diftridl. The place, where we flopped, is clean and enjoys a 
 good air. It is pleafantly feated on the fide of a hill, the plain 
 beneath it overfpread with vines producing a ftrong red wine, 
 which is defervedly in great repute. They infufe refin inftead 
 of lime. The people were abroad in the fields, and we tarried 
 under a fhady tree fome time, until we were better accommo- 
 dated by an Albanian woman. The houfe was neat though 
 mean, and much recommended afterwards by the honefl hearti- 
 nefs of its owner her hufband, and of his family. 
 
 I HAD expedted to find at Ligurio the facred pofleifion of 
 TEfculapius, but was told, that the ruins were at Gerao about 
 an hoar diftant. In the evening an Albanian peafant with a 
 caloyer or monk offered to condudt me to the fpot j and the 
 janizary with the failors defired to accompany me. On our 
 return, the villagers, who had been employed in their harvefl- 
 work, readily furniflied as many hearts as were required, and 
 offered to proceed with them by moonlight to Epi-yatha. After 
 
 fupping 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 223 
 
 fupping on the ground before the houfe, :^yioIin was procured. 
 The janizary played, and the Albanians and Greeks began 
 iinging and dancing, with their ufual alacrity. When they had 
 linifhed, we lay difperfed, in the open air, in the area of the 
 court. The next day about noon, my companions arrived, 
 greatly fatigued, and one of them ill j their attendants alfo 
 complaining of their fufFerings by the fea-fide and on the road. 
 
 On a fummit near Ligurio are fome veftiges, it is fuppofed, 
 of Lefla, once a village with a temple and ftatue of Minerva, 
 near the confines of Epidauria and Argolis or the territory of 
 Argos. Below, at the foot of the oppofite mountain, is the 
 ruin of a quadrangular ftrudlure; the mafonry of the fpecies 
 flyled Incertum, the fides inclining as in a pyramid. Lefl"a 
 fronted the road leading by the temple of ^fculapius to Epi- 
 daurus ; and a track beneath Ligurio now pafi"es through the 
 plain by Gerao to that port. 
 
 CHAP. LIIL 
 
 T!he grove of Mfculapius — His Jlatue and temple — Infcriptions 
 — "The Stadium — the "Theatre — Mount Cynortium — Water, 
 &c. — Serpents. 
 
 THE grove of iEfculapius was inclofed by mountains, within 
 which all the facrifices as well of the Epidaurians as of ftrangers 
 were confumed. One was called Titthion, and on this the 
 god when an infant was faid to have been expofed, and to have 
 been fuckled by a fhe-goat. He was a great phyfician, and his 
 temple was always crouded with fick perfons. Beyond it was 
 the dormitory of the fuppliants ; and near it, a circular edifice 
 called the Tholus, built by Polycletus, of white marble, worth 
 feeing. The grove befides other temples, was adorned with a 
 
 portico. 
 
224 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 portico, and a fountain remarkable for its roof and decorations. 
 The bath of ^fculapius was one of the benefadtions of Anto- 
 ninus Pius, while a Roman Senator ; as was alfo a houfe for the 
 reception of pregnant women and dying perfons, who before 
 were removed out of the inclofure, to be delivered or to expire 
 in the open air. The remains are heaps of ftones, pieces of 
 brick wall, and fcattered fragments of marble ; befides fome 
 churches or rather piles of rubbifh mif-called, being deflitute 
 of doors, roofs, or any kind of ornament. 
 
 The ftatue of iiEfculapius was half as big as that of Jupiter 
 Olympius at Athens. It was made of ivory and gold, and, as 
 the infcription proved, by Thrafymedes fon of Arignotus of 
 Paros. He was reprefented fitting, holding bis ftaff, with 
 one hand on the head of a ferpent, and a dog lying by 
 him. Two Argive heroes, Bellerophon combating with the 
 moniler Chimasra and Perfeus fevering the head of Medufa, 
 were carved on the throne. Many tablets defcribed the cures 
 performed by the deity, yet he had not efcaped contumely and 
 robbery. Dionyfius deprived him of his golden beard, affirm- 
 ing it was very unfeemly in him to appear in that manner when 
 his father Apollo was always feen with his face fmooth. Sylla 
 amafled the pretious offerings belonging to him and to Apollo 
 and Jupiter at Delphi and Olympia, to pay his army before 
 Athens. The marks in the walls teftified that a great number 
 had been plucked down. A few fragments of white marble 
 exquilitely carved occur in the heap of the temple. 
 
 The inclofure of the temple once abounded in infcriptions. 
 In the fecond century fix marbles remained, on which were writ- 
 ten in the Doric dialedl the names of men and women, who had 
 been patients of the god, with the diftemper each had laboured 
 under and the remedies he had directed. We found only a couple 
 of votive infcriptions, and two pedeftals of flatues, one of which 
 reprefented a Roman and was eredted by the city of the Epi- 
 daurians. The divine prefcriptions have perifhed or are buried 
 
 in 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 225 
 
 in the ruin, but a fpecimen is extant ' from fimilar records, 
 once preferved in his temple in the ifle of Tiber near Rome. 
 The complaint was fpitting of blood, and the perfon deemed 
 incurajale ; but .^fculapius prevailed. He was reftored, and 
 returned thanks publicly before the people. 
 
 The Stadium was near the temple. It was of earth, as 
 moft in Greece were. At the upper end are feats of flone, but 
 thefe were continued along the lides only a few yards. A 
 vaulted pafTage leading underneath into the area, nou' choked 
 up, was a private way by which the Agonothet^ or prelidents 
 with the priefts and perfons of diftindion entered. 
 
 Two large ciflerns or refervoirs remain, made by Antoninus 
 for the reception of rain-water. One meafured ninety nine feet 
 long, and thirty feven wide. Beyond them is a dry water- 
 courfe, and in the mountain-fide on the right-hand are the 
 marble feats of the Theatre, overgrown with buflaes. We 
 regretted that the Profcenium or front was vaniflied, as this 
 fabric alfo was the work of Polycletus and much admired. The 
 Roman theatres, as Paufanias obferves, far exceeded all in orna- 
 ment, and in fize that of Megalopolis in Arcadia; but, he fub- 
 joins, what archited: can compare with Polycletus in har- 
 mony and beauty ? 
 
 Going up the water-courfc, between the mountains, is a 
 church, where, befides fragments, we found a fhort infcription. 
 *' Diogenes the hierophant to far-darting Apollo, on account 
 " of a vifion in his fleep." Apollo had a temple on mount 
 Cynortium, probably on this fpot; and on a fummit beyond are 
 other traces, it is likely, of a temple of Diana. 
 
 The fprings and wells by the ruins are now fuppofed to 
 poiTefs many excellent properties. To thefe and a good air, 
 
 .1 See Comment on Strabo, p. 164. or Gruter Lnfcript. p. 72. 
 
 G g with 
 
226 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 with the recreations of the Theatre and of the Stadium, and to 
 the medicinal knowlege and experience of the priefts, may be 
 attributed both the recovery" of the fick and the reputation of 
 iEfculapius. The renown and worfhip of this god began in 
 Epidauria, and continued for many centuries. Since he failed, 
 fome faints have fucceeded to the bufinefs ; and I have fcen 
 patients lying in beds in their churches at Athens. The whole 
 neighbourhood has for ages plundered the grove. The Ligu- 
 rians remembered the removal of a marble chair from the 
 Theatre, and of ftatues and infcriptions, which, among other 
 materials, were ufed in repairing the fortifications of Nauplia, 
 now called Napoli, or in building a new Mofque at Argos. 
 
 The tortoifes of mount Cithsron were facred to Pan ; the 
 ferpents of Epidauria to iEfculapius. One fpecies, yellower 
 than common, was peculiar to this region, and tame, perhaps, 
 like the cranes, from being never molefled. Thefe reptiles ftill 
 abound. Some, as the Ligurians relate, are very large, not 
 venomous, and, if attacked, fight with their tails. 
 
 CHAP. LIV. 
 
 Leave Ligurid — Nauplia — I'iryns — I'he river Inachus — Old 
 Argos — 'The prefent town. 
 
 OUR fick companion was able to travel after relling two 
 days. The failors left us at night, with orders to proceed in 
 the felucca to the port of Corinth, and wait our arrival by land. 
 The Janizary and Swifs went for horfes to Napoli, and, not 
 fucceeding there, to Argos. They returned at midnight much 
 fatigued, with eight only and a couple of Argives. The next 
 evening we defcended from Ligurio into the plain, and crofling 
 with the pyramidal ruin on our right entered between two 
 
 ridges 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 227 
 
 ridges of mountains. The track was ftony, among bufhes, by 
 {lender ftreams, and over dry water-courfes. After three hours 
 we difmounted at a place called The Gardens. We had here 
 figs ripe and large. We refolved to continue our journey by moon- 
 light, to avoid the heat of the fun and alfo the flies, which had 
 terribly tormented our horfes. We fupped and lay in an 
 orchard, chiefly of pomgranate and mulberry trees j among 
 which was the plant called Opuntia, then in flower. We fet 
 out again at two in the morning, and by a rough track entered 
 the plain of Argos. This pafs has been ftrongly guarded. 
 Several fummits of the mountains on each fide are crowned with 
 large negledted caftles. The road led us through olive groves, 
 near to Nauplia, now Napoli of Romania. 
 
 Nauplia, the port of Argos, wqs fituated at the bottom of 
 a deep gulf. The people were fuppofed to have accompanied 
 Danaus from Egypt. They were expelled by the Argives for 
 rebellion. In the fecond century the town was defolate ; but 
 ruins of the walls remained, with a temple of Neptune, and a 
 fountain, which ftill flows, called Canathus. The Argives were 
 accuftomed to wafh at it a ftatue of Juno, yearly, on her feftival. 
 The harbour is the moft fecure and beft defended in the Morea. 
 The houfes are on a tongue of land running out into the fea, and 
 overlooked by a high and abrupt mountain. It is a place of a 
 good appearance, and is ftrongly fortified both by nature and art. 
 It was taken, with the caftle of Argos, by the Venetians in 1686. 
 We could fee two (hips at anchor, and were told that a couple of 
 French frigates had failed the night before to chaftife the Dulci- 
 niotes, who had been recently guilty of piracies. We left Nauplia 
 behind us, and travelled toward Argos. 
 
 Our guides led us out of the direiSl: road to an abandoned 
 fortrefs on a rocky eminence in the plain. The wall has large 
 flones toward the bottom ; the fuperftrudlure chiefly modern, 
 and mere patch-work. This was once Tiryns, the citadel of 
 Proetus, the ruins of which were extant on the right-hand of _ 
 
 G h 2 the 
 
22S TRAVELS IN GREfeCE. 
 
 the road from Argos to Epidauria. The Cyclopes, who came 
 from Lycia, were faid to have erected the wall, which only 
 remained in the fecond century. It confifled of rough ftones, 
 the fmalleft of which could not have bteen moved at firft by a 
 yoke of mules ; with leffer ftones fitted to fill the vacant fpaces. 
 Farther on, by the fea and Nauplia, were caverns called Cyclo- 
 pia, with labyrinths, or, as they were named, the chambers of 
 the daughters of Proetus ; probably quarries. The inhabitants 
 of Tiryns, and alfo of Midea, a place of which the fite was 
 vifible on the left of that road, had been transferred to Argos. 
 
 We continued our journey over a level plain, of fine impal- 
 pable foil, and by cotton-grounds, gardens, and the ftubble of 
 wheat. We approached Argos, and crofTed a {hallow ftream 
 once called Charadrus, and alfo the bed of the Inachus. 
 The Argives related, that this was one of the river-gods who 
 adjudged the country to Juno, when fhe contended for it with 
 Neptune, which deity in return made their water to vanifh ; the 
 reafon why the Inachus flowed only after rain, and was dry in 
 fummer. The fource was a fpring, not copious, on a mountain 
 in Arcadia, and the river ferved there as a boundary between the 
 Argives and Mantineans. 
 
 Antient Argos ftood chiefly on a flat. The fprings were 
 near the furface, and it abounded in wells, which were faid to have 
 been invented by the daughters of Danaus. This early perfo- 
 nage probably introduced the pyramidal monuments. He lived 
 in the acropolis or citadel, which was named Larifla and ac- 
 counted moderately ftrong. On the afcent was a temple of 
 j^pollo on the ridge, which in the fecond century continued the 
 feat of an Oracle. The woman, who prophefied, was debarred 
 from commerce with the male fex. A lamb was facrificed in 
 the night, monthly ; when, on tafting of the blood, fhe became 
 pofTefi'ed with the divinity. Farther on was a Stadium, where 
 the Argives celebrated games in honour of Nemean Jupiter 
 and of Juno. On the top was a temple of Jupiter, without a 
 
 roof. 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 229 
 
 roof, the ftatue ofFthe pedeftal. In the temple of Minerva there, 
 among other curious articles, was a wooden Jupiter, with an 
 eye more than common, having one in the forehead. This 
 ftatue, it was faid, was once placed in a court of the palace of 
 Priam, who fled as a fuppliant to the altar before it, when Troy 
 was facked. 
 
 Argos retains its original name and fituation, ftanding near 
 the mountains which are the boundary of the plain, with Napoli 
 and the fea in view before it. The fhining houfes are whitened 
 with lime or plafter. Churches, mud-built cottages and walls, 
 with gardens and open areas, are interfperfed, and the town is of 
 confiderable extent. Above the other buildings towers a very 
 handfome mofque fhaded with folemn cypreiTes ; and behind, is 
 a lofty hill, brown and naked, of a conical form, the fummit 
 crowned with a neglected caftle. The devaftations of time and 
 war have effaced the old city. We enquired in vain for veftiges 
 of its numerous edifices, the Theatre, the Gymnafium, the 
 temples, and monuments, which it once boafted, contending 
 even with Athens in antiquity and in favours conferred by the 
 gods. We tarried in a miferable khan during the heat of noon, 
 and toward evening fet out, with an additional baggage-horfe, 
 for a place called T/ie Columns, 
 
 CHAP. LV. 
 
 Mycena near Argos — Agamemnon Jlain at Mycence — 'The city 
 ruined — The temple of Juno — We mifs the fit e. 
 
 THE kingdom of the Argives was divided into two porti- 
 ons by Acrifius and his brother Prcetus. Argos and Mycens 
 were their capitals. Thefe, as belonging to the fame family 
 and diftant only about fifty ftadia or fi-x miles and a quarter from 
 
 ^ each 
 
230 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 each other, had one tutelary deity, Juno -, and were jointly 
 proprietors of her temple, the Heraeum, which was near 
 Mycenae. 
 
 Agamemnon enlarged his dominions by his valour and good 
 fortune. He poffeffed Mycens with the region about Corinth 
 and Sicyon, and that called afterwards Achasa. On his return 
 from Troy, he was flain with his companions at a banquet. 
 Mycenae then declined; and, under the Heraclidae, was made 
 fubjedt to Argos. 
 
 The Mycenasans, fending eighty men, partook with the 
 Lacedaemonians in the glory acquired at Thermopylx. The 
 jealoufy of the Argives produced the deftrudlion of their city ; 
 which was abandoned after a fiege and laid wafte in the firft 
 year .of the feventy-eighth Olympiad '. The wall was faid 
 to have been a work of the architefts, who conflruifled that 
 of Tiryns, and was fo ftrong, it could not be forced by the 
 Argives. Some part of it remained in the fecond century, with 
 a gate, on which were lions ; a fountain ; the fubterraneous 
 edifices, where Atreus and his fons had depofited their treafures ; 
 .and, among other fepulchral monuments, one of Agamemnon, 
 and one of his fellow foldiers and fufferers. 
 
 Argos was forty ftadia or five miles, and Mycenae ten or 
 fifteen ftadia, about a mile and a half, from the Heraeum. This 
 renowned temple was adorned with curious fculpture, and nu- 
 merous ftatues. The image was very large, made by Polycletus, 
 of gold and ivory, fitting on a throne. Among the offerings 
 was a {hield taken by Menelaus from Euphorbus at Ilium -, an 
 altar of filver, on which the marriage of Hebe with Hercules 
 was reprefented; a golden crown and purple robe given by 
 Nero ; and a peacock of gold fet with pretious ftones dedicated 
 by Hadrian. Near it were the remains of a more antient temple, 
 
 ' In the year before Chrift, 466. 
 
 which 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 231 
 
 which had been burned ; a taper fetting fome garlands on fire, 
 while the prieftefs was aileep. 
 
 The ruin called T!he Columns, we had been informed, was 
 near the dired: road to Corinth. We fuppofed the building to 
 have been the temple of Jupiter at Nemea, and it was expedted 
 that on the way to it we fhould difcover Mycenae and the temple 
 of Juno. " Having re-afcended Tretus, fays Paufanias, on the 
 " left hand of the road to Argos are the ruins of Mycenae."^ 
 We crofled the wide bed of the torrent-river, and the Inachus, 
 and then travelled in a dufty road in the plain, and about funfet 
 arrived at Tretus. On reviewing our journey, I found with 
 regret, that Mycena; was at no great diftance on our right,, 
 when we entered between the mountains. 
 
 CHAP. LVI. 
 
 We arrive at Nemea — Of the temple of 'Jupiter— 'T^ he Nemean' 
 games — Ruin of the temple — Mount Apefas, &c. — —yf village^- 
 and monajiery. 
 
 THE pafs of Tretus is narrow, the mountains rifing on 
 each fide. The track is by a deep-worn water-courfe, which 
 was filled with thickets of oleander, myrtle, and ever-greens ; 
 the ftream clear and fhallow. Some Turks keep guard on it to 
 apprehend fugitives and fufpedled perfons, living under a fhed. 
 covered with boughs. Three of them, on feeing us, came to- 
 the way-fide with water, which civility we requited with a fev/ 
 peraus. Soon after we turned out of the road to the left, and, 
 by a path impeded with fhrubs afcended a brow of the mountain, 
 in which are caves, ranging in the rock, the abode of fhepherds 
 in winter. One was perhaps the den of the Nemean hon„ 
 which continued to be fhown in the fecond century. From the 
 
 ri dge. 
 
2y. 
 
 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 ridge above them may be (een Nauplia, Argos, and the citadel 
 of Corinth. We defcended on the oppofite fide into a long 
 valley, and had in view before us T/ie Columns or the ruin of the 
 temple, by which the village called Nemea antiently flood. 
 
 The temple of Jupiter Nemeus is mentioned by Paufanias as 
 worth feeing. The roof was then fallen, and the image had 
 been removed. Round it was a grove of cyprefs-trees. The 
 prieft was chofen by the Argives, who facrificed in the temple, 
 and at the winter congrefs propofed a race for men in armour j 
 joining this deity in their folemn invocations with Juno. One 
 Bito, it was related, feeing them leading the vidtim, which was 
 a bull, toward Nemea, took it up and carried it thither on his 
 flioulders. A ftatue at Argos reprefented him performing this 
 feat. 
 
 The Nemean games were triennial and celebrated in the 
 grove, in memory of Opheltes or Archemorus, a child, whom 
 his nurfe, while flie conducted the Achaean captains going 
 againft Thebes to a fountain, placed on the grafs, and on her 
 return found with a ferpent folded about his neck. His tomb 
 was inclofed by a ftone fence, within which were altars ; and a 
 heap of earth marked the burial-place of his father Lycurgus. 
 The horfe-race for boys, which had been dropped, was reftored 
 to this and to the Ifthmian feftival by the emperor Hadrian. 
 The Agonothetae or prefidents were elefted from the neighbour- 
 ing cities Argos, Corinth, and Cleons. Their apparel was 
 black. The reward of vidtory was a crown of parfley, which 
 herb was fabled to have fprung from the blood of Archemorus. 
 
 The temple of Jupiter was of the Doric order, and had fix 
 columns in front. The remains are two columns fupporting 
 theif architrave, with fome fragments. The ruin is naked, and 
 the foil round about it had been recently ploughed. We pitched 
 our tent within the cell, on the clean and level area. The 
 roof it is likely was removed foon after its fall. A wild pear- 
 tree 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 235 
 
 Iree grows among the ftones on one fide, but our cook found it 
 iieceflary to ihelter his fire with bufhes of maftic to prevent its 
 being extinguifhed by the fun. We were fupplied with milk 
 and lambs from a mandra or fold in the valley, and with water 
 from a fountain, once named the Adraftean, at a little diftance 
 on the flope of the hill. 
 
 Beyond the temple is a remarkable fummit, the top flat 
 and vifible in the gulf of Corinth. This was probably the 
 mountain above Nemea called Apefas, on which Perfeus was 
 faid to have facrificed to Jupiter. On one fide is a ruinous 
 church, with fome rubbifh, perhaps where Opheltes and his 
 father were faid to have been interred. Near is a very large 
 fpreading fig-tree. To this a moft fimple goatherd repaired 
 daily before noon with his flocki which huddled together in the 
 ihade until the extreme heat was over, and then proceeded 
 orderly to feed in the cool upon the mountain. 
 
 Between the temple and the church is a road, which, 
 branching from that on Tretus, crofles the valley, and pafling 
 through the oppofite ridge turns to the right to a village called 
 Hagio Georgio or St. George, from whence we procured tools 
 to dig, and wine, with other neceflaries. Near are veftiges, per- 
 haps of Bembina ; a village, from which as well as from 
 Nemea the region was fometimes named. On the left hand, at 
 a diftance from the road, is a fmall romantic monaftery, fixed a$ 
 it were againft the fide of a fteep mountain, high up. It pof- 
 fefi!es a moft tranfparent water and an old pi<9:ure of the Panagia 
 or Virgin Mary, which performs miracles and is covered, except 
 the face and hands, with filvcr. The prieft ftiowed me in the 
 wall a Greek fepulchral infcription, aeontis xaipei Leontis 
 farewell. 
 
 H h CHAP. 
 
234 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 CHAP. LVII. 
 
 ^0 Cleonee — Arrive at Corinth — Thejituation — the ports — 
 I'he city dejiroyed and re-peopled — Defcribed by Strabo — By 
 Paufanias — Taken by Alaric and the Turks — Its prejent Jiate 
 — A ruin. 
 
 WE paffed by the fountain at Nemea to regain the diredt 
 road from Argos to Corinth, re-afcending Tretus. We then 
 travelled over a mountainous traft among low^ fhrubs -, the hills 
 with their tops wafhed bare, fome fhining, and with chanels 
 worn in their fides ; the way croffed by very deep water-courfes 
 and fhallow ftreams. We came to a fmall plain, in which are 
 fome veftiges of Cleonse ; a city once overfpreading a knoll or 
 rifing rock, and handfomely walled about ; deferving in the 
 opinion of Strabo the epithet loell-built beftowed on it by 
 Homer. It is mentioned by Paufanias as a place not large, 
 with a temple of Minerva. It was eighty fladia or ten miles 
 from Corinth, and fifteen ftadia or near two miles from Nemea. 
 Two ways led to Argos, which was an hundred and twenty 
 fladia or fifteen miles diftant ; one fit for couriers and fhort ; 
 the other that on Tretus, like wife narrow, being inclofed by 
 mountains, but more proper for carriages. 
 
 We continued our journey, and, coming in view of the 
 gulf of Corinth, had on our left a plain covered with vines and 
 olive-groves. The fertility of this region was alluded to by the 
 witty oracle, which anfwered a perfon who enquired what he 
 fhould do to become rich, that he needed only to get all the 
 land between Corinth and Sicyon. We arrived on the Ifthmus, 
 and about evening entered the town. We were hofpitably re- 
 ceived at the houfe of a Greek named Gorgonda Notara, a 
 
 baratary 
 
Tojliff fJ. "lo^ I 
 
 fc^^^/co^ix 
 
 TH 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 
 l4> "^/f C II ^ IL T 
 
 .y^ #^ ' "— ***' ^*' ^^-'^ 
 
 ^STHMUS of CORIKTH 
 
 I 'I" "» ""I 
 
 j»«> «■<«) aom 
 
 "Zl^^ J^^^^ 
 
 I' 
 
 7!/xi'A'/ttft S<tf//' 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 235 
 
 baratary, or perfon under the protedion of the Englifh embaf- 
 fador at Conftantinople. In the morning we were vifited by 
 the archons or principal Greeics in a body as at Athens, and 
 by Mr. Robart a Frenchman, agent of Mr. Keyrac who had 
 engrofled the trade of the Morea. 
 
 The city of Corinth ftands in the Iflhmus on the fide of the 
 Peloponnefus, a iituation once peculiarly happy, from which 
 alfo its antient profperity was derived. Its ports were com- 
 modioufly difpofed by nature, to receive the (hips of Europe, 
 and of Afia, and to render it the centre of their commerce. 
 The circumnavigation of the Peloponnefus was tedious and 
 uncertain to a proverb ; while at the Ifthmus not only their 
 cargoes, but, if requifite, the fmaller velTels were eafily tranf- 
 ported from fea to fea. Moreover, it held the keys of the 
 peninfula, and taxed both the ingrefs and egrefs. The Ifth- 
 mian games likewife by the concourfe of people at their 
 celebration contributed to its opulence, which was immenfe. 
 The temple of Venus poiTefled above a thoufand female flaves 
 confecrated as courtezans. The prodigality of the merchants 
 made the place fo expenfive, it was a faying, t^at not every 
 man could go to Corinth. Amid this luxury it produced many 
 able ftatefmen as well as capital maflers in painting, fculpture, 
 and the fine arts in general, all which were principally nurtured 
 there and at Sicyon. The Acrocorinthus or citadel was one of 
 the horns, on which Philip was advifed to lay hold, in order 
 to fecure the heifer or the Peloponnefus. It has been alfo 
 ftyled one of the fetters of Greece. 
 
 The port of Corinth on the fide of Afia was named Cenchrese, 
 and difl:ant as much as feventy lladia or eight miles and three 
 quarters. It was forty five ftadia or above five miles and a half 
 by fea from the port of Schoenus. The port toward Italy was 
 called Lechasum. It lay beneath the city, the road to it be- 
 tween long walls reaching twelve fl:adia or a mile and a half. 
 
 H h 2 When 
 
236 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 When Xerxes had defeated the party, which guarded the ftrait 
 of Thermopylae, the Peloponnefians firft deftroyed the Scironian 
 way, and then eredled a wall acrofs the Ifthmus from the fea of 
 Cenchreae to that of Lechaeum. 
 
 A DISPUTE in which the Roman fenate interpofed produced' 
 a war equally fatal to Grecian liberty and to Corinth. The 
 general of the Achseans was defeated, and flying into Arcadia 
 abandoned this city. Lucius Mummius, who commanded the 
 Roman army, apprehenfive of fome ftratagem, did not enter 
 until the third day, though the gates flood open. The Corin- 
 thians were put to the fword or fold as captives, and the city 
 pillaged and fubverted. The hiftorian Polybius, who was prefent, 
 laments, among other articles, the unworthy treatment of the 
 offerings, and works of art ; relating, that he faw exquifite and 
 famous pictures thrown neglectfully on the ground, and the 
 foldiers playing on them with dice. The pretious fpoil was 
 among the prime ornaments of Rome, and of the places, in 
 which it was difperfed. The town lay defolate until Julius 
 Casfar fettled there a Roman colony, when, in moving the 
 rubbifh and digging, many vafes were found, of brafs or earth 
 finely emboffed. The price given for thefe curiofities excited 
 induftry in the new inhabitants. They left no burying-place 
 unexamined, and Rome, it is faid, was filled with the furniture 
 of the fepulchres of Corinth. 
 
 Strabo was at Corinth foon after its refloration by the 
 Romans. He defcribes the fite, as follows. " A lofty moun- 
 " tain, in perpendicular height as much as three ftadia and a 
 " half, the afcent thirty fladia% ends in a pointed fummit 
 *' called Acrocorinthus. Of this the portion to the north is 
 '• the moft fleep, beneath which lies the city on a level area, 
 *' at the foot of the Acrocorinthus. The circuit of the city 
 
 ' Near half a mile. * Three miles and three quarters. 
 
 *• alone 
 
T'RAVELS IN GREECE. 237 
 
 **" alone has been forty ftadia', and as much of it as was un- 
 *« fheltered by the mountain has been walled about. Within 
 «« the inclofure was comprehended alfo the Acrocorinthus, 
 ** where the mountain was capable of receiving a wall ; and, 
 ** as we afcended, the veftiges were plain ; fo that the whole 
 ** circumference exceeded eighty five fladia". On the other 
 •' fides, the mountain is lefs fteep, but rifes very high, and is 
 *« vifible all around. Upon the fummit is a fmall temple of 
 ** Venus ; and below it, the fpring Pirene, which does not 
 *' overflow, but is always full of pellucid and potable water. 
 *' They fay, it unites with fome other hidden veins and forms 
 ♦* the fpring at the mountain foot, running into the city and 
 " affording a fufficient fupply for the ufe of the inhabitants. 
 *• In the city is plenty of wells, and in the Acrocorinthus, 
 ** as they fay, for we did not fee any. — There, they relate, the 
 ** winged horfe Pegafus was taken, as he was drinking, by 
 ** Bellerophon. — Below Pirene is the Sifypheum, fome temple 
 ** or palace of white fi:one, the remains not inconfiderable. 
 " From the fummit is beheld to the north Parnafilis and 
 ** Helicon, lofty mountains covered with fnow ; and below 
 " both, to the weft, the Criflsean gulf bounded by Phocis, by 
 *' Boeotia and the Megaris, and by Corinthia and Sicyonia 
 *' oppofite to Phocis. Beyond all thefe are the mountains 
 *' called the Oneian, ftretching as far as Boeotia and Cithasron 
 *« from the Scironian rocks on the road to Attica." Strabo faw 
 likewife Cleonae from thence. Cenchreoe was then a village, 
 Lechseum had fome inhabitants. 
 
 New Corinth had flourifhed two hundred and feventeen 
 years when it was vifited by Paufanias. It had then a few 
 antiquities, many temples and ftatues, efpecially about the 
 Agora or market-place, and feveral baths. The emperor 
 Hadrian introduced water from a famous fpring at Stymphalus 
 in Arcadia j and it had various fountains alike copious and 
 
 * Five miles. * More than ten miles and a half. 
 
 ornamental 
 
238 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 ornamental. The ftream of one iffued from a dolphin, on 
 which was a brazen Neptune ; of another, from the hoof of 
 Pegafus, on whom Bellerophon was mounted. On the right- 
 hand coming along the road leading from the market-place 
 toward Sicyon was the Odeum, and the Theatre, by which was 
 a temple of Minerva. The old Gymnaiium was at a diftance. 
 Going from the market-place toward Lechseum was a gate, on 
 which were placed Phaeton and the Sun in gilded chariots. 
 Pirene entered a fountain of white marble, from which the 
 current pafled in an open chanel. They fuppofed the metal 
 called Corinthian brafs to have been immerged, while red-hot, 
 in this water. On the way up to the Acrocorinthus were 
 temples, flatues, and altars ; and the gate next Tenea, a village 
 with a temple of Apollo fixty fladia or feven miles and a half 
 diftant, on the road to Mycenas. At Lechsum was a temple 
 and a brazen image of Neptune. At Cenchreas were temples ; 
 and by the way from the city, a grove of cyprefs-trees, fepul- 
 chres and monuments. Oppofite was 'The bath of Helen, water 
 tepid and fait, flowing plentifully from a rock into the fea. 
 Mummius had ruined the Theatre of Corinth, and the munifi- 
 cence of the great Athenian Atticus Herodes was difplayed in 
 an edifice with a roof, inferior to few of the moft celebrated 
 ilrudures in Greece. 
 
 The Roman colony was referved to fuffer the fame calamity 
 as the Greek city, and from a conqueror more terrible than 
 Mummius, Alaric, the favage deftroyer of Athens and univer- 
 fal Greece. In a country harrafTed with frequent wars, as the 
 Peloponnefus has iince been, the Acrocorinthus was a pofl too 
 confequential to be negleded. It was befieged and taken in 
 1459 by Mahomet the fecond ; the defpots or lords of the 
 Morea, brothers of the Greek emperor who was killed in 
 defending Conftantinople, refufing payment of the arrears of 
 the tribute, which had been impofed by Sultan Morat in 1447. 
 The country became fubjedl to the Turks, except fuch maritime 
 places as were in the pofleflion of the Venetians j and many 
 
 of 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 239 
 
 of the principal inhabitants were carried away to Conftantinople. 
 Corinth, with the Morea, was yielded to the republic at the con- 
 clufion of the war in 1698, and again by it to the Turks in 171 5. 
 
 Corinth retains its old name, and is of confiderable extent; 
 {landing on high ground, beneath the Acrocorinthus, with an 
 eafy defcent toward the gulf of Lepanto ; the houfes fcattered 
 or in parcels, except in the Bazar or market-place. CyprefTes, 
 among which tower the domes of mofques, with corn-fields, 
 and gardens of lemon and orange-trees, are interfperfed. The 
 air is reputed bad in fummer, and in autumn exceedingly un- 
 healthy. The principal Corinthians retire into the country, 
 from whence our hoft, who had been apprized of our coming, 
 was recently arrived. We vifited the archbifhop, his fon, a 
 young man with a thick black beard ; and faw the church, 
 which is decorated, as ufual, with portraits of faints. The 
 extreme heat, with fome other circumftances, rendered us im- 
 patient to get away ; and prevented us from afcending to the 
 Acrocorinthus, in which are a few inhabitants, as in the citadel 
 of Athens. Wheler relates, that from the top he enjoyed one 
 of the moft agreeable profpedts, which this world can afford. 
 He gueffed the walls to be about two miles in compafs, inclof- 
 ing mofques, with houfes and churches moftly in ruins. An 
 hour was confumed in going up on horfeback. It was a mile 
 to the foot of the hill j and from thence the way was very fteep, 
 with many traverfes. The families living below were much 
 infefted by corfairs, and on every alarm flocked up to the caftle. 
 Our felucca was at anchor in the port ftill called Cenchreas, 
 now as little frequented as the Piraeus. I was affured, that 
 nothing remained there, but a ftatue found in digging and much 
 mutilated. 
 
 Corinth has preferved but few monuments of its Greek or 
 Roman citizens. The chief remains are at the fouthweft 
 corner of the town, and above the Bazar or market ; eleven 
 columns fupporting their architraves, of the Doric order, fluted, 
 
 and 
 
240 TRAVELS in GREECE 
 
 and wanting in height near half the common proportion to the 
 diameter. Within them, toward the weftern end, is one taller, 
 though not entire, which, it is likely, contributed to fuflain the 
 roof. They have been found to be ftone, not marble j and 
 appear brown, perhaps from a cruft formed on the outfide. 
 The ruin is probably of very remote antiquity, and a portion of 
 a fabric eredted not only before the Greek city was deftroyed, 
 but before the Doric order had attained to maturity. I fufpedt 
 it to have been the Sifypheum mentioned by Strabo. North of 
 the Bazar ftands a large mafs of brick-work, a remnant, it may 
 be conjedturedj of a bath or of the Gymnafiura. 
 
 CHAP. LVIIL 
 
 Of the IJihmus — The place where vejfels were drawn over"-" 
 Attempts to unite the two feas — A wall erected acrofs — The 
 temple of JJlhmian Neptune — The Jit e. 
 
 THE Corinthians related that Neptune and the Sun had 
 contended for their country ; that the latter obtained the Acro- 
 corinthus and yielded the poflefllon of it to Venus -, and that 
 Neptune had continued proprietor of the Ifthmus, which divided 
 the Corinthian from the Saronic gulf, and united the Pelopon- 
 nefus with the Continent. 
 
 The root of mount Onelus extending along the Ifthmus 
 rendered the Corinthian territory, which was not rich in foil, 
 browy and uneven, with hollows. On the fide of the Corin- 
 thian gulf the beach receded toward that of Schcenus, which 
 was oppofite. There the neck was moft narrow, the interval 
 between the two feas being only forty ftadia or five miles j and 
 there was the Diolcos or drawing-place, at which it was ufual 
 
 to 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 241 
 
 to convey light vefTels acrofs on machines. The fame pradice 
 • prevailed in the wars of the Turks and Venetians. 
 
 Various attempts have been made to open a communica- 
 tion between the Ionian and the Mgxsm fea by a navigable cut 
 through the Ifthmus. The projedt was adopted by Demetrius 
 Poliorcetes, but his furveyors found the water in the Corinthian 
 gulf much higher than before Cenchreae, and were of opinion, 
 that JEgim and the neighbouring iflands would be flooded and 
 the canal unferviceable. It was revived by Julius Caefar, and by 
 Caligula. Nero commenced a fofle from Lechseum, and ad- 
 vanced about four ftadia or half a mile. Atticus Herodes was 
 ambitious of engaging in it, but, as Nero had failed, was afraid 
 of offending the emperor by afking his permilTion. " All thofe, 
 ** fays Paufanias, who have endeavoured to render the Pelo- 
 ** ponnefus an ifland, have been prevented while labouring to 
 ** divide the Iflhmus. It is manifefl where they began digging, 
 ** and the rock is untouched. As it was made originally it 
 ** remains, and is now Continent. — So difficult is it for man to 
 ** force nature." The veftiges of thefe fruitlefs efforts, which 
 he faw, are flill extant. 
 
 The wall ereded by the Peloponnefians from fea to fea, 
 reaching forty fladia or five miles, crofTed the Iflhmus where 
 mofl narrow. It was reflored, or another was built, to prevent 
 hoflile incurfiona, under the Greek emperors. Conftantine, 
 defpot or lord of Lacedjemon, repaired this wall, which, with 
 a town within it, was called Hexmillia, becaufe the Iflhmus 
 there was fix miles over. Sultan Morat advanced againfl it in 
 the year 1447, and the defpot affembled all the people of the 
 Morea for its defence. The Turkilh army ranged in equal 
 extent on the fide of the foffe, and, after mutual cannonading, 
 made a general afTault on the feventh day, which fucceeded. 
 Mahomet the fecond in 145 1 ordered that the wall fliould be 
 demolished. In the war of the Turks and Venetians in 1463 
 the lirfl care of the Greeks and Albanians of the Morea was to 
 
 I i render 
 
242 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 render It again tenable, and the Venetians affilled, conveying 
 flohe and materials to the Ipot by fea, but on the approach of 
 the enemy it was abandoned. Bajazet in 1500 entered the 
 country unobftrudted at the Ifthmus. In 1697 the Venetians, 
 who had fubdued the whole Peninfula, were bufied in repairing 
 the fence, to fecure their conquefts by land. The peace con- 
 cluded in the following year made Hexmillia their boundary. 
 A village on the weftern gulf is ftill called by that name. Po- 
 cocke mentions great remains of a large fquare caftle at the end 
 of the wall by the fea. The pafles of the mountains to the 
 fouth of Corinth have alfo been fecured with ftrong walls, 
 which run high up the acclivities and are of great extent. 
 
 The temple of the Ifthmian Neptune was iituated near the 
 port of SchcEnus. On one fide of the approach was a grove of 
 pine-trees regularly planted; and on the other, ftatues of perfons 
 who had been victorious in the Games. Tritons of brafs were 
 placed on the cell, which was not of the greater fize ; and at 
 the entrance were two ftatues of Neptune, and an image of 
 Amphitrite with the fea, likewife of brafs. Among the offer- 
 ings in the temple was one prefented by Atticus Herodes j 
 Neptune and Amphitrite in a chariot, and the boy Pala;mon on 
 a dolphin, all of ivory and gold j the four horfes gilded, with 
 ivory hoofs j and by them two golden Tritons, the lower parts 
 ivory. The fculpture on the bafement beneath the chariot 
 reprefented the Sea producing Venus attended by the Nereids. 
 On the pedeftal of the ftatue of Neptune were carved Caftor 
 and Pollux, deities propitious to vefTels and mariners. On the 
 left hand within the inclofure was a temple of Palcemon, in 
 which was his image, and alfo Neptune and Leucothea. Ano- 
 ther had a fubterraneous pafTage, where, they faid, Palaemon 
 was hid, and if any perfon, whether a Corinthian or ftranger, 
 fwore falfely, it was impoflible for him to efcape punifhment. 
 They facrificed on an antient altar to the Cyclopes. There was 
 alfo a Theatre, and a Stadium of white ilone, worth feeing. The 
 
 care 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 243 
 
 care of the Games, which had been committed to the Sicyonians, 
 was reftored to the Roman city. 
 
 I VISITED the fite of the Ifthmian temple from the port of 
 Schoenus. It is a large level area, nearly fquare, about half an 
 hour from the fea. Some pieces of pillars, with a Doric capital 
 and other fragments much injured, lie on the fpot. A ruinous 
 church ftanding there had in it a pedeftal and the bafe of a 
 column for the facred table. I obferved the veftiges of a thick 
 wall of mafTive ftones, which had defcended from the rock on 
 the fide of the Saronic gulf, and, taking a fweep, had formed 
 two fides of the inclofure ; beyond which it was continued on 
 the margin of a wide and very deep water-courfe, but difap- 
 pears on the brow. At the angle toward the fea is a femi-circular 
 bafement. Wheler faw remains of a town and of the theatre, 
 with feveral old churches. The building and the repairing of 
 the numerous fortrefles, with the wall acrofs the Ifthmus and 
 that behind Corinth, has occafioned a great removal of antient 
 materials from all quarters. I enquired of the goatherds, and 
 they conducted me to various places, but neither the Theatre 
 nor the Stadium were vifible. A marble half-buried in the 
 ground, by a fmall ruined church, was copied here in 1676. 
 The infcription records the munificence of a high-prieft, in 
 eredting new ftruftures and in refloring and decorating thofe 
 which had fuffered from time and earthquakes '. I fearched for 
 it unfuccefsfully ; and have fince found, that it has been tranf- 
 ported into Italy, and is now preferved in the Mufeum at 
 Verona. 
 
 J Wheler, p. 438. See Mufeum Veronenfe, p. xxxix. 
 
 12 CHAP. 
 
244 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 CHAP. LIX. 
 
 The Ai^cbbiJJjop of Athens rejlored — We leave Corinth—' "Embark 
 — Of Ant icy r a — 'fhefte. 
 
 W E were informed at Corinth, that foon after our departure 
 from Athens the Archbifhop had arrived there from Conftanti- 
 nople and been re-inftated in his See by officers commiffioned 
 for that purpofe ; that the Bey or Vaiwode had received him 
 kindly, and ordered his muficians to attend him at his palace; 
 and that a complete revolution had happened in his favour. 
 Lombardi was greatly diftreffed and embarralTed, his intrigues 
 defeated, difappointed in his views of revenge, unincluded in 
 the general amnefty, fearing to return and not knowing whither 
 to fly. 
 
 Wr hired a bark belonging to the ifland of Zante. The 
 failors aflifted in tranfporting the marbles and our baggage acrofs 
 the Ifthmus on horfes and mules. Our weather-beaten captain 
 left us, well fatisfied. We took leave of our hoft and of Lom- 
 bardi, whofe fervices we requited with a handfome gratuity in 
 money, befides various prefents, fome of which he requefted. 
 We defcended to the fea, the plain on each fide of the way 
 covered with caper-bufhes in flower. On the fhore were feveral 
 huts and fheds or ware-houfes ; and near it were barks and fmall 
 veflels lying at anchor. 
 
 While our felucca waited at Epi-yatha, the Corfiote, to 
 whom we had given a pafTage from Athens, feized an oppor- 
 tunity, which offered, to proceed to Corinth, where he re-joined 
 us. We expedled to find him again at the fea-fide, but he was 
 gone^by land to Patrae, and we faw him no more. On embark- 
 ing, we were faluted with a difcharge of pop-guns or chambres. 
 
 Our 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 245 
 
 Our Janizary and one of our Greeks left us with many 
 friendly wiflies of profperity and a happy voyage, intending to 
 return to Athens. In the evening we failed, but had little wind, 
 and the following day after noon we put into a bay in Phocis, 
 on the north fide of the gulf. 
 
 The Phoceans feizing the temple of Apollo at Delphi, a 
 war, called the facred, commenced, and lafted ten years j when 
 Philip, father of Alexander the great, avenged the god by 
 deftroying many of the cities of the pillagers. Anticyra, one 
 of the number, was lituated in this bay, not far from the ruins 
 of Medeon, which, with AmbryfTus and Stiris fufFered the fame 
 punifhment. This place was again taken and fubverted by 
 Atilius a Roman general in the war with the Macedonians. It 
 afterwards became famous for its hellebore. That drug was the 
 root of a plant, the chief produce of the rocky mountains 
 above the city, and of two kinds ; the black, which had a 
 purgative quality ; and the white, which was an emetic. Sick 
 perfons reforted to Anticyra to take the medicine, which was 
 prepared there by a peculiar and very excellent recipe. By the 
 port in the fecond century was a temple of Neptune, not large, 
 built with felefted flones, and the infide white-waflied ; the 
 ftatue of brafs. The agora or market-place was adorned with 
 images of the fame metal ; and above it was a well with a fpring, 
 fheltered from the fun by a roof fupported by columns. A little 
 higher was a monument formed with fuch ftones as occurred, 
 and defigned, it was faid, for the fons of Iphitus. One of 
 thefe, Schedius, was killed by He(3;or, while fighting for the 
 body of Patroclus, but his bones were tranfported to Anticyra j 
 where his brother died after his return from Troy. About two 
 fliadia or a quarter of a mile diftant was a high rock, a portion 
 of the mountain, on which a temple of Diana fl:ood, the image 
 bigger than a large woman, and made by Praxiteles. 
 
 The walls and other edifices at Anticyra were j)robably 
 
 created, like the temple of Neptune, with flones or pebbles. 
 
 * The 
 
246 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 The fite is now called Afprofpitia or THoe White Hoiifes ; and 
 fome traces of the buildings, from which it was fo named, 
 remain. The port is land-locked, and frequented by veffels for 
 corn. Some paces up from the fea is a fountain. At night 
 it blew hard, but we could get no fhelter from the wind on 
 fhore. Our carpets and coverlets were fpread on the poop of 
 our bark, and the men lay on the deck. From that time we 
 began to be iickly ; the gulf, with the coafts of the Morea, 
 being infamous for a bad air, efpecially at this feafon or toward 
 autumn. 
 
 CHAP. LX. 
 
 At Dyjiomo — An infcription — Ambryjfus — TIhe road to Antkyra. 
 
 O N our arrival at Afprofpitia we difpatched men to Dyftomo, 
 a village two hours diftant, to hire fuch beafts as the place 
 afforded, to carry us to the monaftery of St. Luke, and to 
 Caftri or Delphi. The people were bufy at harveft, .and de- 
 clined fending any before the next morning, when a train of 
 affes and mules came early down to the fea-fide with peafants to 
 guide and attend them on foot. Our bark was ordered to wait 
 in the port of Salona. The captain, with two or three failors, 
 accompanied us. We beftrode our beafls, and foon after began 
 to afcend a lofty mountain by a fleep road partly paved. We 
 gained the fummit, beyond which is Dyftomo, where we re- 
 frefhed at the houfe of an Albanian. 
 
 We purfued our journey to the monaftery of St. Luke, and 
 returned to Dyftomo in the evening ; when we were told, that 
 an infcription had been difcovered in one of the cottages. I 
 was pleafed in copying it, by candle-light, to find it preferved 
 the name of the antient inhabitants. It is on a pedeftal of 
 rough ftone, which has fupported a ftatue of the emperor 
 
 Marcus 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 247 
 
 Marcus Aurelius Commodus Antoninus, decreed by the fenate, 
 and ereded by the city of Ambryflus. 
 
 The Athenians and Thebans reftored Ambryflus and Stirls,. 
 with other cities of Phocis, which Philip had deftroyed. The 
 latter people, when the war diftinguifhed by the fatal battle of 
 Chaeronea commenced, furrounded Ambryflus with a double 
 wall of the ftone of the country, which was dark coloured 
 and exceedingly hard ; each circle wanting a little of an orgyia 
 or of fix feet in vvidth, the fpace between them one orgyia, and 
 their height two and a half, when entire ; without battlements, 
 towers, and the accuftomed ornaments, as conftrudted for imme- 
 diate defence. This fortification ranked, in the fecond century, 
 among the moft noted for ftrength and folidity. Many of the 
 ftatues of ftone in the market-place, which was not large, were 
 then broken. Remnants of the wall may ftill be feen without 
 the village, which is fituated, as the city was, under mount 
 ParnaiTus. 
 
 The road from AmbryfTus to Anticyra is defcribed as at firfl 
 up hill, but, after afcending about two ftadia or a quarter of a 
 mile, the ground became level. On the right was a temple of 
 Diana with an image of black llone much reverenced by the 
 AmbrylTenfians. The way from thence was down a declivity. 
 
 CHAP. LXI. 
 
 Way from Ambry fus to Stirls — Of Stiris — Infcriptions. 
 
 W E turned eaftward from Dyftomo, and in an hour and a 
 half reached the monaftery of St, Luke, beneath which in a 
 valley is the fite of Stiris now called Palseo-Stiri. This city 
 was about fixty ftadia or feven miles and a half from AmbryfTus, 
 
 the 
 
248 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 the way in a plain lying between mountains, the part belonging 
 to Ambryffus planted chiefly with vines, and with a Ihrub 
 by fome called Coccus, difpofed in rows, and producing a fcarlet 
 dye. The colour was the blood of a ftiort infe-fl bred in the 
 berries, which were gathered before they were ripe, becaufe it 
 then took wing, refembling a gnat. The level is now without 
 vines or flirubs, but cultivated. It is high above the fea, and 
 encompafled with mountains reaching to the Iky. 
 
 Stiris derived its name from a town in Attica, and the 
 people, it was believed, were originally Athenians expelled by 
 JEgcus. It was fubjedl from its fituation to fcarcity of water in 
 fummer ; the wells, which were few, furnifliing only fuch as 
 would ferve for wafliing, and for cattle. The inhabitants were 
 fupplied by a fountain hewn in the rock, about four ftadia or 
 half a mile diftant. They had a temple of Ceres, of unbaked 
 brick ; the image of Pentelic marble. The place is now 
 defolate, but not without fome veftiges. 
 
 The monaftery of St. Luke was raifed with the materials of 
 Stiris. Several infcriptions were fixed in the walls } fome fo 
 high as not to be legible. One, copied by Wheler, records the 
 perfons, who defrayed the expenfe of making the chanel for 
 water and of building the fountain j from which it was pro- 
 bably removed. We found a flone of the fepulchral clafs, in- 
 fcribed only with the name of the deceafed, Pyrrhicus. Stiris 
 was one hundred and twenty ftadia or fifteen miles from Chae- 
 ronea in Boeotia, the way moftly rough and mountainous. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 249 
 
 CHAP. LXII. 
 
 Summary of the Life of St. Luke of Stiris. 
 
 St. LUKE of Stiris flourifhed in the tenth century. He 
 is commemorated by the Greek church on the feventh of 
 February, and flyled in the Menology, The Glory of Hellas or 
 Greece ; but the hiftory given of him is fuperficial and unfatis- 
 fadory. The learned Combefis in 1648 publiflied extradls of 
 his life from a manufcript in the library of the French king. 
 The holy father and wonder-worker was before fo much for- 
 gotten, that he is unnoticed by Baronius. A tranflation of the 
 whole record may be found in the Latin Adts of the Saints. 
 The author was a difciple of St. Luke, is diffufe, and inclines 
 to the marvellous. The following fummary will difplay the 
 wretchednefs of Greece after the decline of the Roman empire, 
 and, like a mirror, refledt a portrait of the times, to which 
 it refers. 
 
 St. Luke Junior was fo named to diftinguifli him from 
 another faint who lived under the fame emperors. He was 
 defcended of a family, which had fled from iEgina, that ifland 
 being harraffed by the Saracens in pofTefllon of Crete, and fettled 
 firft by the mountain of St. John in Phocis, but, pirates infeft- 
 ing the feas and coaft, removed to a port called Bathys, where 
 Stephen the father of Luke was born ; and from thence to a 
 village named Caftorium. Luke was feized at an early age with 
 the frenzy of the times, and refolving to be a hermit retired 
 about the year 908, when he was eighteen years old, to the 
 above mountain, commonly called Johanitza ; his mother 
 Euphrofyne confenting with reluftance. He was invefl;ed with 
 the divine and apoftolical habit, as it was termed, by two aged 
 monks on their way to Rome. In the feventh year of his abode 
 in that folitude, the Bulgarians under Symeon made an irruption 
 'c K k into 
 
250 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 into the empire. Euboea and the Peloponnefus were filled with 
 fugitives, and Luke with a multitude palTed over to the neigh- 
 bouring iflands. He efcaped his purfuers by fwimming, and 
 arrived at Corinth, where, as he was illiterate, he went to 
 fchool. At Patrae was one of the living ftatues, then not infre- 
 quent ; a madman ftanding on a column. To this Stylites did 
 Luke minifter for ten years, fifliing, getting wood, and drefling 
 vidlualsj preventing him from ftarving, and enabling him to 
 preferve his footing on his pedeftal. 
 
 Peter, who fucceeded Symeon, itiaking peace with the 
 Romans in 927, Luke returned to Johanitza. From thence, 
 fdr greater privacy, he withdrew to Calabium. In 934, fomc 
 of the Turkifli rac^e overrunning the country, he took refuge in 
 an iflet named Arnpelon ; and refided three years on that dry 
 iand barren rock, often diftreffed for food and water, when the 
 winds were rough and the feas impaflable. He removed next to 
 the fpot, which, fays the biographer, faw him die, and is now 
 enriched by his facred reliques '. The companions of his late 
 danger reprefented to him, that he was continually difturbed on 
 the iflet by boats and paflengers. They prevailed on him to 
 leave it, and conducted him to a place dele<ftable indeed, cool 
 and filent, with plenty of limpid water to allay his thirfl, or to 
 promote vegetation ; and fcarcely acceflible to man. Luke 
 cleared the wood, planted a variety of herbs and trees, was 
 hourly employed in improving and adorning his garden, and in 
 rendering it a terreflirial Paradife. He erefted his cell afar off 
 from it and the fountain, for concealment, among fome 
 thickets. 
 
 • Many names of places in Greece were corrupted or changed in this century. 
 Crifia, it is likely, is intended by the author, where he mentions % Xgus-s iTmp;^^-—^ 
 % Xfto-s fii^r,. Bathys, it is fuppofed, was oppofite to Euboea, and, with Caftorium, 
 in Theffaly ; Calabium, in Attica; Arnpelon, one of the iflets of the Saronic 
 gulf. Luke retired finally, it is faid, to SwTne^s ^po». The editor oi Aiia S. S. fuppofes 
 this name derived from the cures efFefled by the dead faint, and afterwards con- 
 tra<£ted into s-njg^ov; but the true reading is, STi^e/is ;t«5ov. Thus in the lives of the 
 Saints, Luke, we read, ;n»««u<);««7i^ e-g/itcs (fc. <rtmis^xs)—(fjam «s loylsTrevIs Xwe^a. 
 The place was Stiris. 
 
 Luke 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 251 
 
 Luke was now in high reputation, admired for his aufteri- 
 ties, revered for the fancftity of his deportment, and regarded as 
 a prophet. After feven years he called together his friends and 
 neighbours, and taking an affedlionate farewel defired their 
 prayers, for it was uncertain whether they fhould meet again. 
 He returned to his cell, and lingered fome months, when his 
 fever increafing he died, much lamented ; the people flocking to 
 attend his lick-bed, though it was winter, the weather ex- 
 tremely fevere, and the ways after an immenfe fall of fnovr 
 almofl: impaflable. 
 
 Luke had direded Gregory, a Prefbyter, to dig beneath 
 where he lay, and bury him ; adding, that God would glorify 
 the fpot, and occafion it to be vifited by multitudes of the 
 faithful. He obeyed, and depoiiting the facred body publickly, 
 as a common treafure, with the ufual ceremonies, replaced the 
 brick-pavement. After fix months, a monk and eunuch named 
 Cofmas, flopping on his pafTage to Italy, was conduced as by a 
 divine hand to the hermitage and cell of Luke, which pleafed 
 him fo much, that he vowed never to leave it -, and feeing his 
 grave negledled, he raifed the holy coffin above the ground, and 
 inclofed it in a tomb, encompafled with rails to prevent any 
 from touching it, but thofe who W€re difpofed to approach with 
 devotion. 
 
 The pious care of Cofmas was not unrewarded. Two years 
 after, fome of his followers perceived a fragrant oil flowing 
 plentifully from the holy cofiin. This incited them to ered: 
 cells J to decorate, as well as they were able, the rude church 
 of St. Barbara ; and to provide fmall houfes for the accommo- 
 dation of fl:rangers ; believing, it may be prefumed, with the 
 editor of the life, that this property, for which feveral fandi- 
 fied carcaflTes have been renowned, was not befliowed by God 
 but as a teftimony that the body fhould prove an invaluable 
 
 K k 2 fountain 
 
252 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 fountain of medicine. Many miraculous cures were performed. 
 The fame of the faint was propagated. His cell was converted 
 into a handfome oratory in the fliape of a crofs s and numbers 
 repaired to his tomb, as to another Siloe. 
 
 CHAP. LXIII. 
 
 ^he monajlery of St. Luke — "The founder — '^he church — THoe 
 reliques of St. Luke — The tombs of the emperor Romanus and 
 his queen — The hermitage. 
 
 THE monaftery of St. Luke is a barbarous edifice, and of 
 an ordinary appearance. Near it by the road-fide is eredted a 
 wooden crofs. It is reckoned two hours from the fea, and four 
 weft of Lebadea. The apartments or cells are very mean. 
 The number of monks was then an hundred and twenty, moft 
 of them abfent, keeping flocks or employed in agriculture. 
 We were entertained by the hegumenos or abbot, who told us 
 that the convent was greatly in debt, and that they fufFered 
 much from exadlions, befides paying to the amount of an 
 hundred and feventy-five pounds fterling yearly tribute to the 
 Turks. The air is bad, and water diftant. It is likely they go 
 to the fountain, which fupplied the inhabitants of Stiris. 
 
 In the church is a copy of Iambic verfes in two columns, ia 
 an antiquated hand, hung up in a frame, and containing a 
 panegyric on the monaftery written foon after it was built. I 
 copied them from a tranfcript produced by the abbot, which 
 had a profe-expofition in more modern Greek, placed op- 
 pofite. The author informs us, that Romanus Porphyro- 
 gennetus was the founder. This emperor was the fon of 
 Conftantine Porphyrogennetus, who was defcended from Fla- 
 vins 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 253 
 
 vlus Bafillus a Macedonian of Armenian origin, and of the 
 race of the Arfacidae. He was crowned in 945, or about the 
 time when Luice died, by his father, and, at the inftigation of 
 his wife, endeavoured to deftroy him by poifon, but he furvived 
 until 960. Romanus died in 963, about two years after the 
 taking of Crete. Theophano was made regent for her fons, 
 and lived feveral years. A firm attachment to Romanus is re- 
 commended in the Iambics. St. Luke was faid to have foretold, 
 that Crete would be fubdued under an emperor of that name. 
 His biographer obferves, that this prophefy had been fulfilled -, 
 but, it is remarkable, does not mention the regard (hown by 
 Romanus to his favourite faint. 
 
 The monaflery of St. Luke is ftylcd by its panegyrift the 
 glory of Hellas and the queen of all monafteries on account of 
 its church, which for magnificence and the grandeur of its 
 proportions is not equalled perhaps in all Greece. This fump- 
 tuous fabric within retains the fhape of the oratory, into which 
 the cell of Luke was changed. It has fuffered greatly, as might 
 be expected, from age and earthquakes ; and the outfide is much 
 encumbered and deformed by the addition of huge buttreiTes to 
 fupport the walls, and by the flopping up of feveral windows,, 
 particularly thofe of the principal dome. The infide is lined 
 with polifhed marble, impannelled ; but fome of the chapels 
 have been ftripped. The pavement is inlaid with various colours 
 artfully difpofed. The domes are decorated with painting and 
 gilding in Mofaic, well executed j reprefenting holy perfonages 
 and fcriptural ftories. The gallery is illuminated with pieces of 
 the tranfparent marble called Phengites, fixed in the wall in 
 fquare compartments, and fliedding a yellow light j but with- 
 out, refembling common ftone and rudely carved. A fabric 
 thus fplendid in decay, muft have been, when recently finifhed,. 
 exceedingly glorious. The encomiaft extols it as the rival of 
 St. Sophia at Conftantinople, and the crown of the. beauties of 
 Hellas. 
 
 The; 
 
254 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 The pretious reliques of the thrice-bleffed Luke were the 
 important treafure, which once ennobled this church. Among 
 the cures effedted by them and recorded by his biographer, one 
 is of a Dsmoniac. In a diftich in the Menology, it is affirmed, 
 he had filled Hellas with miracles, and continued them, though 
 dead. In the fervice of the day, to omit other eulogiums, he 
 is addreffed as repelling evil affedlions ; as healing lepers and all 
 difeafes ; as giving fight to the blind ; reftoring the ufe of 
 limbs } and difpenfing an univerfal panaceum. The abbot 
 iliowed us a fmall farcophagus or coffin, with a wooden lid, and 
 a cover before it, in a chapel or recefs. This was the cafket, 
 but he could not inform us what portion of the faint it had 
 contained, or by whom or whither removed. He related, that 
 the marble pannel on each fide formerly exfuded an ointment of 
 prodigious virtue j a tale received by fome of our company with 
 much reverence and croffing. The entire body, it is probable, 
 was deemed early too rich a jewel to be pofl"eflred by one fpot-j 
 for in a catalogue of the reliques, which belonged to the great 
 church of the monaftery of St. Laura at mount Athos, is men- 
 tioned a part of St. Luke Stiriotes. He produced likewife 
 fome old pictures of the Panagia or Virgin Mary painted on 
 wood, with a fine portrait of St. Luke the evangehft, which 
 had been procured from Mufcovy. 
 
 Beneath the church is an extenfive vault, in vdiich mafs 
 is celebrated on certain feftivals. There is the coemetery of the 
 monks. The body is inclofed in an horizontal niche on a bier, 
 which is taken out when wanted. The bones, are wafhed with 
 wine, and thrown on a heap. In the area are two flat tombs 
 raifed above the floor. The marble flab on the top of one of 
 them is plain, except a Greek crofs engraved on the right fide. 
 iln the other a plate of brafs or metal has been fixed, with an 
 infcription. They were eredted, as the abbot informed us, over 
 the founder Romanus and the emprefs his wife. 
 
 The 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 255 
 
 The fpot cultivated by Luke was poflefled in 1676 by a 
 hermit, whom Wheler vifited. The way from the monaftery 
 was down the hill to the fouth ; acrofs a fmall river in a plea- 
 fant plain, planted with vines and olive-trees ; and then up a 
 ftcep rock, cut wide enough for two carts to pafs, the afcent 
 eafy. On the top were ruins of a town and caftle ; and beneath, 
 a metochi or farm near a port, in which the caloyers or monks 
 fifh, and veflels load with corn. He turned to the left over a 
 craggy xidge and arrived at the hermitage, fituated on the fouth- 
 eail fide ;of a rock, and diflant a mile and a half from the 
 raonaflery. The garden was large, with a cell and a pretty 
 oratory at the upper end. Below was a fountain of good water ; 
 and beyond it, a river, which defcended in a cafcade from the 
 high cliffs of mount Zagara or Helicon, and pafTed by, mur- 
 muring among the vafl rocks and flones in its chanel. The 
 hoary head of the hermit, v/ho was clothed in a long brown 
 garment, refembled the fnowy fummits. He carved fcriptural 
 ilories on crofTes with admirable art, and was efleemed a faint. 
 An humble companion miniflered to him, as Luke to Stylites. 
 Two caloyers or monks, who lived in a hut beneath, produced 
 bread and olives, white honeycomb, and excellent wine, for 
 the refrefhment of our traveller; who was fo charmed with 
 the harmony of birds and the natural beauties of the place, and 
 fo foothed with the idea of enjoying perfedl peace and innocence, 
 that, as he relates, he was near refolving to bid adieu to a vairi 
 world, and, like another Cofmas, to fix his abode there. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
256 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 CHAP. LXIV. 
 
 Of Bulls — Places on the coajl between Bulls and the IJlhmus — 
 The bay of Lhadojiro — A/era — Mount Helicon — The grove 
 of the Mtfes —Of the fite, (^c. 
 
 ANTICYRA had on the eafl or the fide next to the Ifth- 
 mus the town of BuHs. The mountains, which intervened, 
 were fcarcely palTable. The port was one hundred ftadia or 
 twelve miles and a half on the way to Lechjeum. The town 
 was feated on high, at the diftance of about feven ftadia or near 
 a mile. By the track, afcending to it, was a torrent river, 
 called Heraclius, running into the fea. A fountain was called^- 
 Saunium. The inhabitants were moftly employed in procuring 
 the {hell-fi(h, which yielded a purple colour. Bulis as well as 
 Stiris was abandoned in the tenth century, and both the cell and 
 garden of Luke had ruin and defolation in their vicinity. 
 
 BuLis was on the confines of Boeotia and Phocis. Mychus, 
 the laft harbour of Phocis, was in a bay or recefs, the deepeft 
 of any in the gulf. Beyond it was mount Helicon, and Afcra, 
 and ThefpicB, with its port Creufa : and more within, Pagae 
 and Oenoe, one bounding the Megaris, the other Corinthia. 
 PagcE and the port of Schcenus were nearly equi-diftant from 
 the Piraeus. Between Pagae and Lechasum was Olmis, a pro- 
 montory oppofite to Sicyon, making the recefs ; once the feat 
 of an oracle of Juno. From thence the paflage over to Corinth 
 was about feven miles and a half. 
 
 The courfevof vefi^els crofling from the Peloponnefus to the 
 port of Thefpias was crooked, with a rough fea broken by capes 
 and liable to violent gufts and eddies of wind from the moun- 
 tains. Sailing from thence, not up the bay, but along the coaft 
 
 or 
 
I 
 TRAVELS IN GREECE. ' 257 
 
 or toward Phocis, you came to the port of Thifbe ; and, crofling 
 a mountain by the fea, entered a plain, beyond which was ano- 
 ther mountain with the city at its feet, on the borders of Thefpis 
 and Coronea. The plain would have been a lake, but a ftrong 
 mound was made acrofs it, and, by confining the waters, refcued 
 a portion, which was cultivated. Thifbe was eighty lladia or 
 ten miles from Bulls, and its port one hundred and fixty fladia 
 or twenty miles from Sicyon. The rocks near it abounded in 
 doves. Sailing on as before, you came to Tipha, a fmall town 
 by the fea. 
 
 The gulf or recefs within Olmi^e is now called the bay of 
 LIvadoftro. It is overlooked on the north by mount Elatea or 
 Cithaeron, which ends by the harbour of St. Bafilio, once 
 Creufa. Beyond a ridge, which commences there, is the 
 * harbour of Livadoflro or of Thifbe. Farther on, weftward, a 
 very high rock runs into the fea ; after which is a port and town 
 called Cacos, once Typha. Helicon begins there to foar aloft, 
 until its head reaches above the clouds. By the promontory, 
 which lies weft-fouth-weft from St. Bafilio, are four iflands 
 called Calanefia or The good IJlands. From St. Bafilio Wheler 
 arrived in about an hour at the town of that name, which had 
 been recently ruined by pirates. The remains of antiquity, and 
 the fituation, as connedled with the port, render it probable that 
 was Thefpias. He defcended from a lofty village named Rimo- 
 caftri to Caftri or the ruins of Thifbe, near a large plain and a 
 flagnant lake. At Livadoflro was an old tower and a church 
 frequented by mariners '. 
 
 AscRA, the birth-place of Hefiod, was in the territory of 
 ThefpitE, on the right fide of Helicon, diflant from the city 
 
 ' Wheler found ruins, as he fappofes, of Thefplas, on a hill about four miles 
 from Rimocaftri weftward, and five or fix from Cacos ; but this fite cannot be recon- 
 ciled with the geographers. It feems to have been Coronea. See Strabo, p. 411. 
 
 The ruins beyond St. Bafilio called Palseocaftro, on the way to Thebes, were, 
 it is likely, Haliartus. See Paufanias, p. 306. 
 
 L 1 about 
 
258 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 about forty ftadia or five miles. It flood on a high and rough 
 fpot, and is charadlerized by the poet as a wretched village, not 
 pleafant in any part of the year ^ but the foil produced corn. 
 A tower only remained there in the fecond century. 
 
 Helicon was one of the m.ofl fertile and woody mountains 
 in Greece. On it the fruit of the adrachnus, a fpecies of 
 arbutus, or of the ftrawberry-tree, was uncommonly fweet -, and 
 the inhabitants affirmed, that the plants and roots were all 
 friendly to man j and, that even the ferpents had their poifon 
 weakened by the innoxious qualities of their food. It approached 
 ParnafTus on the north, where it touched on Phocis -, and 
 refembled that mountain in loftinefs, extent, and magnitude. 
 
 The Mufes were the proprietors of Helicon. There was 
 their fhady grove, and their images ; with ftatues of Apollo 
 and Bacchus, and Linus and Orpheus, and the illuftrious poets, 
 who had recited their verfes to the harp. Among the tripods, 
 in the fecond century, was that confecrated by Hefiod. On 
 the left hand going to the grove was the fountain Aganippe j 
 and about twenty fladia or two miles and a half higher up, the 
 violet-coloured Hippocrene. Round the grove were houfes. 
 A feflival was celebrated there by the Thefpieans, with Games 
 called Mufea. The vallies of Helicon are defcribed by Wheler 
 as green and flowery in the fpring ; and enlivened by plealing 
 cafcades and ilreams, and by fountains and wells of clear water. 
 
 The Boeotian cities In general, two or three excepted, were 
 reduced to Inconfiderable villages in the time of Strabo. The 
 grove of the Mufes was plundered under the aufpices of Con- 
 flantine the great. The Heliconian goddeffes were afterwards 
 confumed in a lire at Conflantinople, to which city they had 
 been removed. Their antient feat on the mountain, Aganippe 
 and Hippocrene, are unafcertained. NarcifTus too is forgotten. 
 The limpid bafin. In which he gazed, was (hown in the 
 Thefpian territory, and the flower, into which he was changed, 
 
 continues 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 259 
 
 continues to love and to adorn its native foil. It abounded in 
 that region, and was very fragrant, in the month of April. 
 
 CHAP. LXV. 
 
 We leave Dyjlomo — - T^he way called Schijie — I'he road into Phocis 
 from B csotia — Of Orchomenus and Chceronea — We arrive at 
 Delphi. 
 
 W E fet out from Dyftomo early in the morning for Caftri or 
 Delphi. This city was on the fouth lide of Parnaflus, with an 
 abrupt mountain named Cirphis before it ; and a river called the 
 Pleiftus running through a grove beneath. 
 
 We travelled fome time with the fea behind us, and after- 
 wards, turning to the left, came on the road antiently called 
 Schifte or T'he rent, lying between the lofty mountains Cirphis 
 and Parnaflus, and once deemed to be polluted with the blood 
 of Laius, who was killed there by CEdipus ; a principal event 
 in his renowned and tragical ftory. 
 
 A ROAD led into Phocis and to Delphi from Boeotia. On 
 this fliood Chasronea, near which were the cities of Orchomenus 
 and Lebadea. Panopeus was diftant twenty fladia or two miles 
 and a half from Chasronea, and Daulis feven fladia more, or 
 near a mile ; after which was Schifte. The bodies of Laius 
 and his fervant were buried where three ways met, or where the 
 road from Dyflomo branches off" to Daulis and to Delphi. Their 
 graves were marked with heaps of flones, perhaps ftill to be 
 feen. 
 
 The treafury of Minyas, a fabric of remote antiquity, 
 remained entire at Orchomenus in the fecond century. It is 
 defcribed as a circular edifice of ftone with a roof artfully con- 
 
 L 1 2 ftrufted 
 
26o 'travels IN GREECE. 
 
 flructed, and as a wonder not inferior to any in Greece or elfe- 
 where. By Cha2ronea was a barrow with a lion on the top, 
 beneath which the Thebans were interred, who periflied in the 
 battle with Philip. A traveller into thefe countries, under the 
 guidance of Paufanias, will difcover claffical monuments, natural 
 and artificial curiofities, and vefriges of, remarkable buildings 
 and places not hitherto explored. 
 
 It was now the beginning of July, but the fummits of the 
 mountains were white with fnow. Many rills defcend, and 
 fertilize a few fpots bearing grain, vines, and the cotton-plant. 
 We faw fnakes near the water by the road-fide, and peafants 
 reaping with green wreaths to defend their heads from the fun. 
 At length, leaving Schifle, we turned to the right and began to 
 afcend an acclivity of ParnalTus, the track flony and rough, 
 difficult even to a perfon on foot. We pafied the ftream of the 
 Pleiftus, which turns an over-fhot mill, and, after a wearifome 
 ride of about five hours, alighted at a monaftery of the Panagia 
 or Virgin Mary. We found there a caloyer or monk and an 
 old woman, who fupplied us with good wine. Our lodging 
 was in the portico of the church, which is fupported by broken 
 and ill-matched columns. 
 
 CHAP. LXVI. 
 
 « 
 
 SanSiity of Delphi "-The Amphl5lyonic affembly — The orach--' 
 The temple — Its riches — Its decline. 
 
 DELPHI was the chief and mofl: illuftrious city in 
 Phocis. Its fandtity was deduced through a long fucceflion of 
 ages from a period involved in fable and obfcurity. The influ- 
 ence of its god has controlled the councils of flates, diredted the 
 courfe of armies, and decided the fate of kingdoms. The 
 
 antient 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. * 261 
 
 antlent hiftory of Greece is full of his energy, and an early 
 regifler of his authority. 
 
 The circumjacent cities Vv^ere the ftewards and guardians of 
 the god. Their deputies compofed the famous Amphidlyonic 
 aflembly, which once guided Greece. It was convened in 
 fpring and' autumn at Delphi or ThermopyIa3. The Romans 
 abolifhed that apd the Achsean congrefs, but both were revived. 
 Paufanias, who wrote about the year of the Chriftian aera one 
 hundred and feventy five, mentions the former as then confifting 
 of thirty perfons. They prefided at the Pythian games, which 
 were celebrated every fifth year at Delphi, and befiiowed the 
 reward of vidlory, a crown of laurel. 
 
 The oracular power was fuppofed to refide in a deep cavern^ 
 with a fmall and narrow mouth, faid to have been difcovered by 
 goatherds, who were infpired by the vapour, which arofe out of 
 it, and prophefied as from Apollo. A lofty tripod, decked with 
 laurel, was placed over the aperture. The Pythia or prieftefs, 
 after wafhing her body and efpecially her hair in the cold water 
 of Caftalia, mounted on it, to receive the divine effluvia. She 
 wore a crown of laurel, and fhook a facred tree, which grew 
 by. Sometimes flie chewed the leaves ; and the frenzy, which, 
 followed, may with probability be attributed to this ufage, and 
 the gentler or more violent fymptoms to the quantity taken. la 
 one inftance the paroxyfm was fo terrible, that the priefts and 
 fuppliants ran away, and left her alone to expire, it was believed, 
 of the god. Her part was unpleafant, but, if fhe declined 
 afting, they dragged her by force to the tripod. The habit of 
 her order was that of virgins. The rules enjoined temperance 
 and chaftity, and prohibited luxury in apparel. The feafon of 
 enquiry was in the fpring, during the month called Bufius ; 
 after which Apollo was fuppofed to vifit fhe altars of the Hyper- 
 boreans. Delphi was conveniently fituated for the conflux of 
 votaries, lying in the centre of Greece, and, as was thea 
 imagined, of the Univerfe. The god profpered in his bufinefs.. 
 
 His 
 
262 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 His fervants and priefts feafted on the numerous vidims, which 
 were facrificed to him ; and the riches of his temple were pro- 
 verbial even before the war of Troy. 
 
 The temple of Apollo, it is related, was at firll a kind of 
 cottage covered with boughs of laurel ; but he was early pro- 
 vided with a better habitation. An edifice of flone was eredled 
 by Trophonius and Agamedes, which fubfifted about feven 
 hundred years and was burned in the year fix hundred and 
 thirty fix after the taking of Troy, and five hundred forty-eight 
 before Chrifl. It is mentioned in the hymn to Apollo, afcribed 
 to Homer. An opulent and illuftrious family, called Alcmas- 
 onidx, which had fled from Athens and the tyrant Hippias, 
 contradted with the deputies for the building of a new temple, 
 and exceeded their agreement. The front was raifed with 
 Parian marble, infl:ead of the ftone called Porus ; which re- 
 fembled it in whitenefs, but was not fo heavy. A Corinthian 
 was the architedl. This temple is defcribed by Paufanias. The 
 pediments were adorned with Diana, and Latona, and Apollo, 
 and the Mufes ; the fetting of Phoebus or the Sun ; with 
 Bacchus, and the women called Thyades. The architraves 
 were decorated with golden armour ; bucklers fufpended by the 
 Athenians after the battle of Marathon, and fliields taken from 
 the Gauls under Brennus. In the portico were infcribed the 
 celebrated maxims of the {even fages of Greece. There was 
 an image of Homer, and in the cell was an altar of Neptune, 
 with ftatues of the Fates, and of Jupiter and Apollo, who were 
 furnamed Leaders of the Fates. Near the hearth before the 
 altar, at which Neoptolemus the fon of Achilles was flain by a 
 prieft, fi:ood the iron chair of Pindar. In the fandtuary was an 
 image of Apollo gilded. The inclofure was of great extent, 
 and filled with Treafurles, in which many cities had con- 
 fecrated tenths of fpoil taken in war, and with the public 
 donations of renowned ftates in various ages. It was the grand 
 repofitory of antient Greece, in which the labours of the 
 fculptor and ftatuary, gods, heroes, and illuftrious perfons, were 
 
 feen 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 263 
 
 feen collefted and arranged ; the inequalities of the area or 
 acclivity contributing to a full difplay of the noble aflemblage. 
 
 It is obferved by Strabo that great riches, though the pro- 
 perty of a god, are not eaiily fecured. Several attempts to rob 
 Apollo are on record. Neoptolemus was flain, while facrificing, 
 on fufpicion. Xerxes divided his army at Panopeus, and pro- 
 ceeded with the main body through Bceotia into Attica, while a 
 party, keeping Parnaflus on the right, advanced along Schifte to 
 Delphi, but was taken with a panic, as near Ilium, and fled. 
 This monarch, it is related, was as well apprized of the con- 
 tents of the temple and the fumptuous offerings of Halyattes 
 and Croefus as of the effed:s which he had left behind in his 
 own palace. The divine hoard was feized by the Phocenfians 
 under Philomelus, and diflipated in a long war with the Am- 
 phidlyons. The Gauls experienced a reception like that of the 
 Perfians, and manifefted iimilar difmay and fuperftition. Sylla, 
 wanting money to pay his army, fent to borrow from the holy 
 treafury, and when his meffenger would have frightened him, 
 by reporting a prodigy, that the found of.a harp had been heard 
 from within the fanduary, replied, it was a fign that the god 
 was happy to oblige him. 
 
 The trade of Apollo, after it had flourifhed for a long period, 
 was affedled by the male practices of fome concerned in the 
 partnerfhip, who were convidled of bribery and corruption, and 
 ruined the character of their principal. The temple in the 
 time of Strabo was reduced to extreme poverty, but the offer- 
 ings, which remained, were very numerous. Apollo was filent, 
 except fome efforts at intervals to regain his loft credit. Nero 
 attempted to drive him, as it were by violence, from the cavern; 
 killing men at the mouth and polluting it with blood ; but he 
 lingered on and would not entirely forfake it. Anfwers were 
 reported as given by him afterwards, but not without fufpicion 
 of forgery. An oracle of Apollo at another place informed the 
 
 confulters^ 
 
264 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 confulters, that he fhould no more recover utterance at Delphi, 
 but enjoined the continuance of the accuftomed offerings. 
 
 CHAP LXVII. 
 
 Site of Delphi — T'he court of the temple — ExtinBion of Apollo — 
 Vejliges — An infcription — Other infcriptions — Cajlalia. 
 
 THE city of Delphi was feated on a high rock, with the 
 oracle above it; and was in circuit lixteen ftadia or two miles. 
 The natural ftrength of the place excited admiration as much as 
 the majefly of the god. It was free under the Romans. Paufanias 
 has defcribed it. Near the entrance from Schifte was a temple in 
 ruins ; with one empty. A third contained a few images of Roman 
 emperors. Beyond thefe was the temple of Minerva ftyled Pronaea, 
 becaufe after it was the principal temple, that of Apollo. There 
 the god interpofed to repel the Perfians. By the temple of Minerva 
 was the portion of Phylacus, an heroum or monument. His 
 fpedlre, it was believed, had appeared to the Perfians and to the 
 Gauls, in armour, huge and tall. A court of the Gymnafium 
 was faid to have been the birth-place of the wild fow, which 
 wounded Ulyffes. Turning from it to the left and going 
 down not more than three ftadia, lefs than half a mile, you 
 came to the ftream of the Pleiftus. Proceeding up to the 
 temple of Apollo, on the right hand was the water of Caftalia, 
 fweet to drink. The houfes, with the facred inclofure of the 
 temple, which overlooked the city, ftood on an acclivity. The 
 area or court within the wall was large, and many ways were 
 •cut, leading out of it. A Sibyl was faid to have chanted her 
 oracles from a prominent rock above the Athenian portico. 
 Coming out of the temple, the wall was on the left, and alfo 
 the tomb of Neoptolemus, to whom the Delphians made 
 yearly oblations. Higher up was a ftone, not big, on which 
 they poured oil daily, and upon feftivals put white wool. On 
 
 the 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 265 
 
 the way back to the temple was the fountain Caflbtis, and a 
 wall with a palTage up to it. The water was faid to run under- 
 ground, and in the fandluary of the temple to render women 
 prophetical. Above Caflbtis was a building called Lefche, in 
 which the ftory of Troy was painted by Polygnotus with equal 
 fkill and labour. In the facred inclofure was a Theatre worthy 
 of notice. Without it and above all, was a Stadium, confl:rudted 
 originally with the ftone of Parnaflus, which had been changed 
 for Pentelic marble at the expenfe of Atticus Herodes. 
 
 Apollo, though frequently pillaged and poor in money and 
 plate, was ftill pofiefl!ed of an invaluable treafure in the offer- 
 . ings, which remained within the court of his temple. The 
 number, variety, and beauty of thefe monuments was prodi- 
 gious. Some were venerable for their antiquity, and the occa- 
 fions on which they had been dedicated. The infcriptions were 
 authentic records, pregnant with information. The Greek was 
 here deeply interefled, perufing the national ftory, and viewing 
 his famous countrymen or illuftrious anceftors. The ftore ap- 
 peared inexhauftible, and the robbery of Nero, who removed 
 five hundred brazen images, was rather regretted than perceived. 
 The holy Treafuries, though empty, ferved as memorials of the 
 piety and glory of the cities, which erc£ted them. The Athe- 
 nian portico preferved the beaks of fhips and the brazen fhields ; 
 trophies won in the Peloponnefian war. A multitude of curio- 
 fities was untouched. The account given of them by Paufanias 
 may convey fome idea of the opulence of the fpot, which indeed 
 was amazing even after repeated diminution. 
 
 Const AN TINE the Great proved a more fatal enemy to 
 Apollo and Delphi than either Sylla or Nero. He removed the 
 facred tripods to adorn the Hippodrome of his new city ; where 
 thefe, with the Apollo, the ftatues of the Heliconian Mufes, 
 and the celebrated Pan dedicated by the Greek cities after the 
 war with the Medes, were extant, when Sozomen wrote his 
 hiftory. Afterwards Julian fent Oribafius to reftore the temple, 
 
 M m but 
 
266 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 but he was admoniihed by an oracle to reprefent to the emperor 
 the deplorable condition of the place. ** Tell him the well- 
 ** built court is fallen to the ground. Phoebus has not a 
 ** cottage, nor the prophetic laurel, nor the fpeaking fountain 
 " (Caflbtis) ; but even the beautiful water is extinft." 
 
 We palled by many broken farcophagi or ftone coffins, when 
 we approached the monaftery. Higher up on the right hand was 
 a fquare ruin with a fmall door-way, perhaps the bafement of 
 the monument of Phylacus. The mafonry is of the fpecies 
 termed Incertum. Some veftiges of temples are vifible ; and 
 above them, in the mountain-lide, are fepulchres, niches with 
 horizontal cavities for the body, fome covered with flabs. 
 Farther on is a niche cut in the rock with a feat, intended, it 
 feems, for the accommodation of travellers wearied with the 
 rugged track and the long afcent. On a part fmoothed is 
 engraved a large crofs. The monaftery is on the fite of the 
 Gymnafium. Strong terrace walls and other traces of a large 
 edifice remain. In the wall of the church was a marble in- 
 cribed, aiakiaaxaipe Macides farewel ; and on another, within 
 an olive crown, 
 
 OAHMO2OA0HNAIOS 
 
 rre I OI2 
 In the pavement within was a long infcription, the letters 
 effaced. We found alfo feveral architeftural fragments. The 
 village is at a diftancc. Callalia is on the right hand as you 
 afcend to it, the water coming from on high and croffing the 
 road ; a fteep precipice, above which the mountain ftill rifes 
 immenfely, continuing on in that diredion. The village con- 
 lifts of a few poor cottages of Albanians covering the fite of 
 the temple and oracle. Beneath it to the fouth is a church 
 of St. Elias, with areas, terrace walls, arches, and veftiges 
 of the buildings once within the court. The concavity of the 
 rock in this part gave to the fite the refemblance of a theatre. 
 Turning to the left hand, as it were toward the extremity of 
 one of the wings, you come again to fepulchres hewn in the 
 
 rock. 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 267 
 
 rock, and to a femicircular recefs or niche with a feat as on 
 the other fide. Higher up than the village is the hollow of 
 the Stadium, in which were fonie feats and fcattered frag- 
 ments. 
 
 At the village we fearched for a piece of wall, of the mafonry 
 termed Incertum, from which Mr. Wood had copied feveral 
 infcriptions. We difcovered a ftone of it containing, befides 
 fome other lines, a decree in honour of an Athenian living in 
 .(^tolia, the facred herald of the Amphidlyons ; giving him from 
 the god a crown of laurel, with various privileges, one of which 
 is precedence at the games. The letters were fair, but with 
 gaps between them, the furface appearing as eaten by time, and 
 refembling honey comb, of a white colour. This, it is likely, 
 was the ftone called Porus. A fpecimen of it may be feen in 
 the colledion of marbles at Oxford. The remnant of wall was 
 probably a portion of the cell of the temple, which fronted the 
 road from Caflalia. 
 
 HiGHKR up, within the village, is a piece of antient wall 
 concealed from view by a flied, which it fupports. The ftone 
 is brown, rough, and ordinary, probably that of ParnaiTus. 
 On th.e fouth fid.e are many infcriptions, with .wide gaps between 
 the letters, which are negligently and faintly cut ; all nearly of 
 the fame tenor, and very difficult to copy. They regifter the 
 purchafe of flaves, who had entrufted the price of their freedom 
 to the god } containing the contradl between Apollo and their 
 owners, witnefTed by his priefts and by fome of the archons. 
 This remnant feems to be part of the wall before Caflbtis ; as 
 above it is ftill a fountain, which fuppHes the village with ex- 
 cellent water, it is likely, from the antient fource. 
 
 The water of Caftalia, from which the Pythia and the poets, 
 who verfified her anfwers, were believed to derive a large 
 fhare of their infpiration, defcends through a cleft of Parnaflus j 
 the rock on each fide high and fteep, ending in two fummits ; 
 
 M m 2 of 
 
268 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 of which, one was called Hyampeia, and had beneath it the 
 facred portion of Autonous, a local hero as diftlnguilhed as 
 Phylacus. From this precipice the Delphians threw down the 
 famous JEfop. By the ftream, within the cleft, are fmall 
 broken ftairs leading to a cavity, in which is water, and once 
 perhaps up to the top. Grooves have been cut, and the marks of 
 tools are vifible on the rock ; but the current, inftead of fup- 
 plying a fountain, now palTes over its native bed, and haftens 
 down a courfe deep-worn, to join the Pleidus. Clofe by, at 
 the foot of the eaftern precipice, is a bafin with fteps on the 
 margin, once, it is likely, the bath ufed by the Pythia. Above, 
 in the fide of the mountaia, is a petty church dedicated to St. 
 John, within which are excavations refembling niches, partly 
 concealed from view by a tree. The water is limpid, and ex- 
 ceedingly cold. Returning from the village in the evening, I 
 began to wafli my hands in it, but was inftantly chilled, and 
 feized with a tremor, which rendered me unable to fland or 
 walk without fupport. On reaching the monaftery, I was 
 ■wrapped in a garment lined with warm fur, and, drinking 
 freely of wine, fell into a moft profufe perfpiration. This 
 incident, when Apollo was dreaded, might have been embel- 
 liflied with a fuperftitious interpretation. Perhaps the Pythia, 
 who bathed in this icy fluid, miftook her fhivering for the 
 god. 
 
 CHAP. LXVIII. 
 
 Of mount Farnajfus — T^he Coryctan cave — Wheler's journey on 
 mount Parnajfus — Remarks — Some Albanians arrive at the 
 monajlery. 
 
 PARNASSUS was the weftern boundary of Phocis, and 
 flretching northward from about Delphi toward the Oitasan 
 mountains feparated the weftern Locri from thofe who poffeffed 
 
 the 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 269 
 
 the fea-coafl before Euboea. It was a place of refuge to the 
 Delphians in times of danger. In the deluge, which happened 
 under Deucalion, the natives were faved on it by following 
 the cry of wolves. On the invafion by Xerxes forae tranf- 
 ported their families over to Achaia, but many concealed them 
 in the mountain and in Corycium, a grotto of the Nymphs. 
 
 All Parnaffiis was renowned for fanflity, but Corycium was 
 the mofl noted among the hallowed caves and places. " On the 
 *' way to the fummils of Parnaffus, fays Paufanias, as much as 
 *' lixty ftadia ' beyond Delphi, is a brazen image ; and from 
 *' thence the afcent to Corycium is eafier for a man on foot and 
 ** for mules and horfes. — Of all the caves, in which I have 
 " been, this appeared to me the beft worth feeing. On the 
 '* coafts and by the fea-fide are more than can be aumbered ; 
 " but fome are very famous both in Greece and in other coun- 
 *' tries. — The Corycian cave exceeds in magnitude thofe I have 
 *' mentioned, and for the moft part may be paffed through 
 *• without a light. It is fufficiently high j and has water, 
 ** fome fpringing up, and yet more from the roof, which petri- 
 '* fies ; fo that the bottom of the whole cave is covered with 
 •• fparry icicles. The inhabitants of Parnaffus efteem it facred. 
 " to the Corycian Nymphs and particularly to Pan. From the 
 *' cave to reach the fummits of the mountain is difficult even 
 ** to a man on foot. The fummits are above the clouds, and 
 *' the women called Thyades madden on them in the rites of 
 ** Bacchus and Apollo." Their frantic orgies were performed 
 yearly. 
 
 Wheler and his company afcended Parnaffus from Delphi^ 
 fome on horfes, by a track between the Stadium and the clefts 
 of the mountain. Stairs were cut in the rock, with a ftrait 
 chanel, perhaps a water-duft. In a long hour, after many 
 traverfes, they gained the top, and entering a plain turned to 
 
 * Seven miles and a half^ 
 
 the 
 
2/0 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 the right, toward the fummits of Caftalia, which are divided by 
 deep precipices. From this eminence, they had a fine profpedt 
 of the gulf of Corinth and of the coaft ; mount Cirphis appear- 
 ing beneath them as a plain, bounded on the eaft by the bay of 
 Afprofpitia and on the weft by that of Salona. A few (hepherds 
 had huts there. They returned to the way, which they had 
 quitted, and crofTed a hill covered with pines and fnow. On 
 their left was a lake, and beyond it a pike, exceedingly high, 
 white with fnow. They travelled to the foot of it through a 
 valley four or five miles in compafs ; and refted by a plentiful 
 fountain called Drofonigo, the ftream boiling up, a foot in 
 diameter, and nearly as much above the furface of the ground. 
 It runs into the lake, which is about a quarter of a mile diftant 
 to the fouth-eaft. They did not difcover Corycium, or proceed 
 farther on, but keeping the lake on their right came again to 
 the brink of the mountain, and defcended by a fteep and danger- 
 ous track to Racovi, a village four or five miles eaftward from 
 Delphi. 
 
 It was the opinion of Wheler that no mountain in Greece 
 was higher than ParnafiTus j that it was not inferior to mount 
 Cenis among the Alps j and that, if detached, it would be feen 
 at a greater diftance than even mount Athos. The fummits are 
 perpetually increafing, every new fall of fnow adding to the 
 perennial heap, while the fun has power only to thaw the fuper- 
 ficies. Caftalis, Pleiftus, and innumerable fprings are fed, fome 
 invifibly, from the lakes and refervoirs ; which, without thcfe 
 drains and fubterraneous vents would fwell, efpecially after 
 heavy rain and the melting of fnow, fo as to fill the vallies and 
 run over the tops of the rocks down upon Delphi, fpreading 
 wide an inundation, fimilar, as has been furmifed, to the Deu- 
 calionean deluge. 
 
 We purpofed to afcend Parnaflus, hoping to find the Cory- 
 cian cave, but before we had finifhed at Delphi, feventeen 
 Albanians arrived at the monaftery. Thefe belonged to a guard, 
 
 which 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 271 
 
 which patroled on the roads. They were robuft dirty favages, 
 wearing their hair in fmall plaits hanging down their fhoulders. 
 In the evening they roafted a fheep, and the captain invited us 
 to partake, and, on our making fome excufe, prefented us with 
 a portion of the meat. After eating in groups, they continued 
 their wild finging and dancing to a late hour. They flept on 
 the ground, each with his arms by him, and fome much nearer 
 to us than was agreeable. Sultan Morat in 1447 forced many 
 of their nation to change their religion, and converted the 
 churches of Albania into mofques. This fet were Mahometans^, 
 defcended from Chriftian profelytes. They were reprefented to 
 us as drunken and quarrelfome, given to deteftable vices, and 
 as dangerous as the banditti, againft whom they were employed. 
 We difliked their company, and dropped our intended excurfion 
 in queft of the cave ; it appearing more prudent to depart fud- 
 denly for the port of Salona, in which, as a failor informed us, 
 our bark was then at anchor. 
 
 CHAP. LXIX. 
 
 Of Cirrha-—Of Amphifa — The port of Delphi- —We leave Delphi 
 
 — Embark. 
 
 DELPHI was diftant fixty ftadia, or feven miles and a half 
 from the fea at Cirrha. This city was the Crifla of Homer, 
 from which the Criflaean bay had its name. The port was 
 called Chalason, and frequented by veflels from Sicily and Italy. 
 The people were enriched by the cufloms, but, befides other 
 impieties, they impofed heavy taxes on the votaries of Apollo, 
 who arrived there ; and encroached on his boundary. War was 
 declared and the oracle confulted by the deputies, when the 
 Pythia replied, that the fea muft wafh the domain of Apollo 
 before the city, which was befieged, could be taken. The 
 
 Cirrhasan 
 
272 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 Cirrhaean territory was immediately confecrated by the advice of 
 Solon, one of their generals. The town was fupplied by a du6b 
 with water from the Pleiftus. He intercepted the current, and 
 infufing roots of hellebore it produced a general flux. Cirrha 
 was demoliflied, and dire execrations were pronounced againfl 
 any perfon or power prefuming to moleft the god in the enjoy- 
 ment of his new pofl"e{rions. 
 
 The port of Cirrha was convenient for Amphifl*a, a princi- 
 pal city of the Locri Ozolae, diftant from Delphi one hundred 
 and twenty fl:adia or fifteen miles. The people feized it, re- 
 cultivated the plain, and exad:ed from ftrangers even more 
 than the Criflieans, but not with impunity. The facred war 
 followed and Amphifla was deftroyed. 
 
 Cirrha continued to be the port of Delphi in the time of 
 Paufanias. It had then a temple of Apollo. On the way to it 
 was the Hippodrome, or courfe for the Pythian horfe-races. 
 This was in the plain, then naked. No one would plant, 
 either fearing the curfe, or knowing the foil to be unfit for 
 trees. 
 
 We left the monaftery early in the morning, and going back 
 to the mill, defcended into the vale between the Cirphis and 
 Parnafilis. Here, as we travelled along, we had frefh occafion 
 to regard with wonder the rough and romantic fituation of 
 Delphi; the rock rifing prodigioufly high with precipices, fome 
 perpendicular, betw^een us and the village, and ftill towering up 
 behind ; the fummits intruding into the blue iky. The fmall 
 ftream of the Pleiftus, inftead of purfuing its way to Cirrha 
 and the fea, was abforbed among the olive-trees, vineyards, 
 and plantations. 
 
 The rich vale ending, we crofled the Cirrhaean or Criflaean 
 plain, which, as antiently, was bare. We faw the town of 
 Salona on our right, at a diftance, on a knoll or eminence. 
 
 We 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 273 
 
 We pafTed over a root of mount Clrphis, and came, after about 
 three hours, in view of our bark, lying at anchor, with fome 
 fmall-craft. By the water-fide was a magazine or two, and a 
 mean cuftom-houfe, at which we waited for a boat, to convey 
 us on board. The property of the foil is again changed, and 
 Cirrha belongs, not to Delphi and Apollo, but to Amphifla or as 
 it is now called Salona. 
 
 CHAP. LXX. 
 
 At GaU'ixtthium — At Thitbavra — A plmie-tree on the Jloore of the 
 Morea — Site of Bojiitza — Mgium — -The tnouth of the guf—~ 
 Lepanto — The Cajlles — Arrive at Patra. 
 
 W E fet fail without delay, and, after clearing the bay of 
 Salona, the wind blowing hard and contrary, got to Gallix- 
 ithium, a mean town, of mud-built houfes, with traces of 
 antient wall by the fea-fide. It is fuppofed GEanthea, a town of 
 the Locri Ozolae. 
 
 We were detained in port until the morning, when we 
 tacked often, and the gale increafing, put in for flielter at Thi- 
 thavra, where we found other fmall-craft. We had in view 
 the Acro-corinthus, and the flat fummit by Nemea. 
 
 Early in the morning we croffed over to the Morea, and 
 anchored by fome fmall-craft and a French veflel, which had 
 failed with us from Corinth. A plane-tree by the fhore is re- 
 markable for its vafl: fize and height. ^ It is found and flourifh- 
 ing, with huge limbs, affording a moft capacious and thick 
 fhade. A company of armed Albanians, like that at Delphi, 
 was fleeping beneath it, and prevented us from meafuring the 
 trunk. We were told that an earthquake and a mighty inun- 
 
 N n dation 
 
274 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 dation of the fea happened not many years ago ; that the water 
 thrice mounted above this tree, and the tall cliff behind it; 
 that fome of the branches were torn off by its violence ; and 
 that the people fled to the mountains. 
 
 Above the fea is a town called Boftitza, which ffands on or 
 near the fite of Mgium j for by the plane-tree is a plentiful 
 fource of excellent water, ftreaming copioufly from ten or more 
 mouths of ftone ; and many tranfparent fprings rife on the 
 beach, ^gium is defcribed as retired from the fhore, which 
 afforded plenty of water agreeable to drink from the fountaia 
 and pleafing to the eye. 
 
 Mgivm was a city of no mean note, in the region called 
 ^gialos and afterwards Achaia. It had a theatre and temples, 
 fome near the fea. One was of Jupiter ftyled Homagyrius, 
 becaufe Agamemnon affembled there the principal chieftains of 
 Greece before the expedition to Troy. It was for many ages 
 the feat of the Achaean congrefs. The Turks burned JEgiunx 
 in 1536, and put the inhabitants to the fword, or carried them 
 away into flavery. 
 
 It continued to blow until it was dark, when a calm enfued. 
 We proceeded, before the dawn of day, about two miles toward 
 the mouth of the gulf, which is formed by the promontories 
 once called Rhium and Antirhium. The wind, fetting in 
 again, met us, and we tarried near a point of land named 
 antiently Drepanum, becaufe the curve between it and Rhium 
 refembled a Side. We failed in the evening, and tacked from 
 ftiore to fhore, but made little way all night. 
 
 At day-break we had a diftindl view of Lepanto, a city often 
 attacked, taken, and recovered in the wars of the Turks and 
 Venetians. It is feated on the acclivity of a ileep hill, and has 
 been likened to the Papal crown, the lateral walls being croffed 
 
 by 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 275- 
 
 by four other ranges, and afcending to a point or fummit, on 
 which is a caftle terminating the fortification. The wall next 
 to the fea is indented with an oval harbour, of which the 
 entrance is narrow and capable of admitting only barks and 
 fmall gallies. The valley on each fide of the town was dulky 
 with trees. The gulf is named from it j but by the Greeks the 
 place is called Epadlos, as antiently Naupadtos. It belonged to 
 the Locri Ozols ; whofe fea-coaft, beginning from Cirrha and 
 Phocis, extended a little more than two hundred ftadia or twenty 
 live miles. 
 
 Passing Lepanto, we came between the promontories 
 Rhium and Antirhium, diftant from each other feven ftadia, or 
 lefs than a mile. The ftrait, which divides them, was five 
 ftadia wide. The Chriftians often invading the Ottoman domi- 
 nions on this fide, Bajazet in 1482 eredled caftles at the mouth 
 of the gulf. One is called the caftle of Romelia, the other of 
 the Morea, Both were taken by the Venetian admiral in 
 1536. The Turkifh governors in 1687 blowed up their walls, 
 which were afterwards reftored. We failed clofe by the latter, 
 a mean fortrefs, on a low point of land, much out of repair, 
 with the lion of St. Mark over the gate-ways. 
 
 We doubled cape Rhium, and before noon anchored in the 
 road of Patrs. Between this place and Lepanto the Chriftians 
 in 1 57 1 obtained a vidlory from the Turks in one of the moft 
 confiderable battles, which ever happened at fea. The gulf 
 of Corinth was reckoned eighty five miles long. 
 
 N n 2 CHAP. 
 
276 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 CHAP. Lxxr. 
 
 Of PatrcE — 'the city — Feajl of Diana — T!he prefent town — 
 'the fouthjide of the gulf of Cormth-—NegleB of travellers. 
 
 PATRyE aflifted the ^Etolians, when invaded by the Gauls 
 under Brennus ; but afterwards was unfortunate, reduced to 
 extreme poverty, and almoft abandoned. Auguftus Cafar re- 
 united the fcattered citizens, and made it a Roman colony, 
 fettling a portion of the troops, which obtained the vidlory of 
 Adtium, with other inhabitants from the adjacent places. Patroe 
 reflouriflied, and enjoyed dominion over Naupaftus, CEanthea, 
 and feveral cities of Achaia. 
 
 In the time of Paufanias, Patrae was adorned with tem- 
 ples and porticoes, a Theatre, and an Odeum which was 
 fuperior to any in Greece but that of Atticus Herodes at 
 Athens. In the lower part of the city was a temple of Bacchus 
 ^fymnetes, in which was an image preferved in a cheft, and 
 conveyed, it was faid, from Troy by Eurypylus ; who, on 
 opening it, became difordered in his fenfes. By the port were 
 temples ; and by the fea, one of Ceres, with a pleafant grove 
 and a prophetic fountain of unerring veracity in determining the 
 event of any illnefs. After fupplicating the goddefs, with 
 incenfe, the fick perfon appeared, dead or living, in a mirror 
 fufpended fo as to touch the furface of the water. 
 
 In the citadel of Patras was a temple of Diana Laphria, with 
 her ftatue in the habit of a huntrefs, of ivory and gold, given 
 by Auguftus Casfar, when he laid wafte Calydon and the cities 
 of ^tolia to people Nicopolis. The Patrenfians honoured her 
 with a yearly feftival, which is dcfcribed by Paufanias, who was 
 a fpedator. They formed a circle round the altar with pieces 
 
 of 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 277 
 
 of green wood, each fixteen cubits long ; and within heaped 
 dry fewel. The Iblemnity began with a moft magnificent pro- 
 ceflion, which was doled by the Virgin-Prieflefs in a chariot 
 drawn by ftags. On the following day, the city and private 
 perfons offered at the altar j fruits, and birds, and all kinds of 
 vidtims, wild boars, ftags, deer, young wolves, and hearts full 
 grown J after which the fire was kindled. He relates, that a 
 bear and another animal forced a way through the fence, but 
 were re-conduded to the pile. It was not remembered that any 
 wound had ever been received at this ceremony, though the 
 fpeftacle and ficrifice' vi^ere as dangerous as favage. The number 
 of women at Patrce was double that of the men. Thev were 
 employed chiefly in a manufacture of flax, which grew in Elis, 
 weaving garments and attire for the head. 
 
 Patr^ has been often attacked by enemies, taken, and 
 pillaged. It is a confiderable town, at a difl:ance from the fea, 
 fituated on the fide of a hill, which has its fummit crowned 
 with a ruinous caftle. This made a brave defence in 1447 
 againft Sultan Morat, and held out until the peace was con- 
 cluded, which firfl rendered the Morea tributary to the Turks. 
 A dry flat before it was once the port, which has been choked 
 with mud. It has now, as in the time of Strabo, only an in- 
 different road for veifels. The houfe of Nicholas Paul Efquire, 
 the Englifli conful, flood on part of the wall either of the 
 Theatre or the Odeum. By a fountain was a fragment of a 
 Latin infcription. We faw alfo a large marble bufl:, much 
 defaced ; and the French conful fhowed us a colledion of 
 medals. We found nothing remarkable in the citadel. It is a 
 place of fome trade, and is inhabited by Jews, as well as by 
 Turks and Greeks. The latter have feveral churches. One is 
 dedicated to St. Andrew the Apollle, who fuffered martyrdom 
 there, and is of great fandtity. It had been recently repaired. 
 The fite, by the fea, is fuppofed that of the temple of Ceres. 
 By it is a fountain. The air is bad, and the country round 
 about overrun with the low flirub called Glycyrrhiza or Licorice. 
 
 SiCYONj 
 
278 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 Sic YON, with feveral cities of Achaia, flood on the fouth 
 fide of the gulf of Corinth. Wheler vifited the former, now 
 called Bafilico. Pococke mentions a ruin on a high hill, about 
 fix miles nearer to Patrx, and fuppofes it ^gira. About feven 
 miles beyond, he faw a piece of thick wall on the fea-fliore, 
 where perhaps was Helice. At Voftitza, was a ruin of a fmall 
 antient building, at the weft end of the town j and in the front 
 of an old church, a fine relief, of a lion feizing a horfe. A river, 
 the Selinus, falls into the fea to the eaft of the town, and has 
 over it a large bridge. In a beautiful little plain, a league to 
 the fouth, is another river, either the Phcenix or Meganitas. 
 From Corinth to the caftle of the Morea is reckoned a journey 
 of twenty two hours. 
 
 The places between Sicyon and Patree, their order, their 
 fituation, their diftances from the fea and from each other, are 
 fo exadlly marked by Strabo and Paufanias, as not eafily to be 
 miftaken '. It is matter of regret, that travellers too commonly 
 haften along in the beaten road, uninformed of the objedts on 
 the way ; when by confulting and following thofe invaluable 
 guides, they might increafe their own pleafure, and at the fame 
 time greatly advance the general knowlege of antient geography. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 ' From Patrae to the promontory Rhium the diftance was fifty ftadia. Then 
 to port Panormus, fifteen. To the wall of Minerva, fifteen. To port Erineus, 
 now, it is fuppofed, Lambirio, ninety. To ^gium, fixty. In the whole, 
 two hundred and thirty ftadia or twenty eight miles and three quarters. 
 Strabo reckons Rhium and Antirhium forty ftadia from Patrae. This city 
 v/as forty ftadia nearer to iEgium by land than by fea. After fome rivers was cape 
 Drepanum. A little above the road were remains of Rypes, about thirty ftadia 
 from ^gium. Forty ftadia beyond ^gium was Helice. From this city the 
 •worfliip of Jupiter Heliconius was transferred to Ionian The inundation attend- 
 ing the earthquake, which deftroyed it, was fo great that only the tops of the trees 
 in the grove of Neptune were vifible. The town, though twelve ftadia or a mile 
 and a half from the fliore, was abforbed. Remnants of the buildings were dif- 
 cernible under the water in the time of Paufanias, Beyond Helice on the right 
 of the road was Cerunea on a mountain. Proceeding, not a great way, you turned 
 
 afide 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 279 
 
 CHAP LXXII. 
 
 We leave Patrce — On the coajl of Mtolia — Flats — 'The river 
 Achelous — T!he ijlnnds called Echinades — I'he Fifiery — A 
 mo7ioxylo or Jkiff — T'oiviis — Caiife of the bad air in the gulf- — 
 Encroachments of the river. 
 
 WE enquired at Patroe for ruins of the antlent cities of the 
 Peloponnefus, but unfuccefsfully. The veftiges of the former 
 inhabitants overfpread the country, but have not awakened 
 curiofity or refledlion in the prefent race. Finding we could 
 obtain no intelligence, we refolved to proceed in our bark to 
 Chiarenza, or, as it was once called, Cyllene. This place was 
 the port of Elis, and lay in our courfe to Zante, whither, if 
 we tarried in the Morea, we purpofed to fend our baggage, 
 retaining only neceffaries for the journey. On the fecond 
 evening after our arrival at Patrae, we bade adieu to the worthy 
 conful, by whom we had been politely entertained, and de- 
 fcended to the fea, at a late hour, accompanied by his fon j 
 our fervants lighting us with long paper lanthorns. 
 
 We pafled over to the level coaft oppofite to Patrae, antiently 
 called Mtolia, now Romelia. In the afternoon I went afhore in 
 the boat with the captain, and the men gathered tall ftrong 
 bull-ruflies to tie the fails. Some peafants were dividing the 
 carcafe of a cow, which they had killed, among the thickets at 
 
 afide to Bura, likewife on a mountain, forty ftadia from the fea. The more 
 antient city had been abforbed with Helice. On the way from Bura toward the 
 fliore, was a river called Buraicus and a fmall Hercules in a cave, which was diftant 
 on the direft road thirty ftadia from Helice, and feventy two from the port of 
 ^gira, crofling the river Crathis, by which iEgae once flood. iEgira was twelve 
 ftadia above its port, which was an hundred and twenty from that of Pellene. 
 This was a ftrong fortrefs fixty ftadia above the fea, and the place next Sicyon. 
 
 a diftance. 
 
28o TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 a diftance, and wanted to fell part of it ; but, feeing me in the 
 long drefs with a white towel round my head, the meffenger 
 miftook me for a Turk, and ran away. He was prevailed on 
 to return, and we went with him. 
 
 The water was weedy, and fo fliallow, that our bark an- 
 chored afar off from the fliore. In the evening the air flunk 
 abominably J and frogs croaked in chorus without ceafing. 
 We anchored again, the following afternoon, near a very large 
 tradl of low land overfpread by the fea and encompaffed with 
 reed-fences. Thefe flats have been formed chiefly by the mud 
 of the river Achelous, which was defcribed to us as of great 
 fize, and as flooding the country in winter. 
 
 The Achelous is ftyled by Homer the prince of rivers. The 
 ftream defcended from the north and mount Pindus into the 
 plain of Acarnania, and, dividing that country from ^tolia, 
 entered the fea by the city CEniadas, creating continually new 
 land. Alcmseon fettled near it, when direded by the Delphic 
 oracle to fly from the Fury, which haunted him as the murderer 
 of his mother, to fome fpot manifelled by the fea after his 
 pollution. The two nations, their boundaries fliifting, engaged 
 in many bloody conflidls for the region about the mouth, called 
 the Paracheloitis. 
 
 Before the Achelous lay the iflets named Echinades, many 
 in number, barren and rugged. Several of thefe had been 
 added very early to the continent, and, in the opinion of an 
 antient hifl;orian, it was eafy to foretell the fate of the re- 
 mainder. In the time of Strabo, the water fl:agnated in a large 
 lake about CEniada^ ; and, he obferves, fome of the iEtolian 
 promontories had been iflands. Auguilus Csfar removing the 
 inhabitants into Nicopolis, the city which he founded near 
 Adium, the country was unfown, and the quantity of flime 
 decrcafed. This is afligned by Paufanias as the reafon why the 
 
 jundlion 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 281 
 
 jundion of the Echlnades with the main land had not been 
 completed. Depopulation has alfo fince retarded its progrefs. 
 
 The Achelous was among the rivers moft noted for fhoals 
 of fifh, which entered from the fea, efpecially in fpring. It 
 was particularly frequented by mullet, which delight in foul 
 and muddy water. The multitudes now taken yearly at that 
 feafon on the fhallows furpafs belief. The rows are made into 
 Bottarga and Caviaro ; a fpecies of food, which the antients 
 efteemed as a delicacy. The fmall fheds, eredled each on a 
 lingle poft, extended as far as we could fee, and appeared innu- 
 merable. They are defigned for watchmen, who obferve the 
 finny fquadrons, and by doling the avenues of the fences, fecurc 
 them in prifon. 
 
 On a knoll within the inclofures was a fmall thatched hut, 
 which we endeavoured to reach in our boat, but we grounded 
 at the diftance of half a mile. A man waded to it, and pro- 
 cured for us a monoxylo or tray, the trunk of a tree made 
 hollow. This is the common vehicle over the flats ; capable 
 of containing a very few perfons ; long, narrow, and unfteady ; 
 but refpedlable for its antiquity, being on record among the 
 veflels in primitive ufe j fuiting the fhallows, on which naviga- 
 tion received its firfl: rudiments. A boy, who efpied us, fled in 
 extreme conllernation, punting with all his might toward the 
 hut, jumping into the water, and pufhing his fkiff before him, 
 when impeded by the weeds, which fpring up from the bottom. 
 We purchafed fome dried fifh, and returned in the monoxylo to 
 our boat. 
 
 We could fee many vefllels lying at a difl:ance off Mefla-longia 
 and Nathaligo, two towns inhabited chiefly by Greeks, on little 
 iflands amid the flats. The monoxyla or flciffs carry every thing 
 to and fro, and in calm weather are employed in lading them, 
 principally with fifh, fpreading over the fhining furface of the 
 water, innumerable. 
 
 O o The 
 
282 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 The wind in Aututnn commonly fets toward the Morea and 
 into the gulf of Corinth, before which the Echinades with 
 Cephallenia he. It becomes impregnated with falts from putre- 
 fying weeds in its paffage over thefe extenfive flats j wafting 
 noifome vapours and difeafe. In the creeks, where we ftopped, 
 we had feen fick perfons, removed for eafe and quiet from 
 the veflels, lying on the rocks. The complaints, which pre- 
 vailed among us, may be imputed partly to fatigue. Our fervants 
 had been all ill at different times ; and one, with a failor, whd 
 attended us to Delphi, was now unable to ftand on the deck. 
 
 The changes effe(fted by the Achelous deferve to be attentively- 
 examined. The low land on the fouth fide of the Corinthian 
 gulf, and on the weftern coaft of the Morea, is perhaps its off- 
 spring ; and Lechasum as well as the port of Patras may have 
 been choked by the river. The traveller, who jfhall trace the 
 paft encroachments, will be enabled to prognofticate with cer- 
 tainty many future alterations. Perhaps in fome diftant age the 
 growing foil may unite with the oppofite fhore of the Morea, 
 and the entrance of the Corinthian gulf be clofed up ; whea 
 that water will be feen removed from the fea in the fame 
 manner by the Achelous, as the bay of Myus has been by the 
 Moeander. 
 
 CHAP. LXXIII. 
 
 We fail — In the bay of Chiarenza — Cyllene — At Gaflouni — 
 At Elis — Its territory facred — The city — Vefiiges. 
 
 WE failed at night with a ftrong wind and a high fea, which 
 beating on the fide of the veffel rolled us along toward Chiarenza. 
 We paffed cape Papa, called antiently Araxus, a promontory, 
 which belonged to Elis, and was one thoufand fladia or an 
 
 hundred 
 
To /act- p. iJ>2. 
 
 J^d'esn 
 
 X&ii^in /iulp . 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 283 
 
 hundred and twenty five miles from the Ifthmus. Dyme, a 
 city without a port, the laft of Achaia to the weft, was fixty 
 ftadia or feven miles and a half from the cape. Olenus, a 
 deferted city, was forty ftadia or five miles from Dyme, and 
 eighty ftadia from Patr«. 
 
 We anchored foon after day-break in the bay of Chiarenza, 
 which is frequented by fmall-craft from Zante and the places 
 adjacent, chiefly for paflengers and provifions. On the beach 
 was a low cart, the only one we had feen fince we left Sigeum, 
 the form and wheels antique, drawn by two horfes abreaft. 
 The buildings are a cuftom-houfe and a few fheds or magazines. 
 
 CvLLENE ftood on a rough tongue of land on the fouth fide 
 of the bay, an hundred and twenty ftadia or fifteen miles from 
 Elis. It was a middling village, and poflefTed two or three 
 temples. In one was an ivory ftatue of ^Efculapius, wonderful 
 to behold. The fite under the Venetians was occupied by 
 Chiarenza, a flourifhing town. Sultan Morat in 1447 ^^^^ 
 wafte the Morea as far as this place, and carried off fixty thou- 
 fand people. Some mafles of wall and other veftiges remain. 
 The port is choked up. Cyllene which gave its name to 
 Mercury was a very high mountain in Arcadia celebrated for 
 his temple. Zante is oppofite to the region of Elis. 
 
 We were informed here of a place called Palaeopolis, which 
 we agreed to vifit, hoping to find ruins of the city of Elis. 
 Horfes, and men to attend them on foot, with an agoiatis or 
 guide to Gaftouni were procured without difficulty. We dined 
 at a Greek monaftery, half an hour from the ftiore, and then 
 proceeded through a plain. On our right hand was a town 
 named Clemontzi or Clemouzzi, beyond which on a hill dif- 
 tindlly vifible from Zante, and about fix miles from the ftiore, 
 is a fortrefs commonly called CaJlk-'Tornefe. The Venetians 
 under Morofini appeared before it in 1687, after their vi<3:ory at 
 Patrje, and it furrendered. A barrow occurred on our left, 
 
 O 2 and 
 
284 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 and afterwards two near each other. We then eroded the river 
 Peneus, a fliallow ftream in a wide and deep bed. In about 
 three hours we arrived at Gaftouni, which is a large town. 
 
 Our captain conducftcd us to the houfe of a Zantiote, who 
 admitted us into his garden, in which we palled the night. 
 We were detained, waiting for horfes, un^til the following even- 
 ing, when in four hours we reached Callivia, a fniall village 
 near Palsopolis. By the way was a barrow. We faw large 
 tradls of land overrun with tall thiftles and the licorice- flirub j 
 cotton -grounds and vineyards interfperfed. The garden of a 
 peafant was our lodging. 
 
 The city of Elis owed its origin to an union of fmall towns, 
 after the Perlian war. It was not encompafled immediately 
 with a wall ; for it had the care of the temple at Olympia, and 
 its territory was folemnly confecrated to Jupiter. To invade or 
 not prote(ft it was deemed impiety ; and armies, if marching 
 through, delivered up their weapons, which, on their quitting 
 it, were reftored. Amid warring ftates the city enjoyed repofe, 
 was reforted to by ftrangers, and flourifhed. The region round 
 about it was called Ccele or Ho/low, from the inequalities. The 
 country was reckoned fertile, and particularly fit for the raifing 
 of flax. This, which grew no where elfe in Greece, equalled 
 the produce of Judaea in finenefs, but was not fo yellow. 
 
 Elis was a fchool, as It were, for Olympia. The Athletic 
 cxerclfes were performed there, before the more folemn trial, in 
 a Gymnafium, by which the Peneus ran. The Hellanodics or 
 Prsefedts of the games paired the rival combatants by lot, in an 
 area called Plethrlum or T/ie Acre. Within the wall grew lofty 
 plane-trees; and in the court, which was called the Xyftus, 
 were feparate courfes marked for the foot-races. A fmaller 
 court was called the quadrangle. The Prsfeds, when chofen, 
 refided for ten months in a building ereded for their ufe, to be 
 inftruded in the duties of their office. They attended before 
 
 fun- 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 285 
 
 fun-rife, to prefide at the races ; and again at noon, the time ap- 
 pointed for the Pentathlum or Five Sports. The horfes were 
 trained in the Agora or market-place, which was called the 
 Hippodrome. In the Gymnafium were altars, and a ceno- 
 taph of Achilles. The women, befides other rites, beat their 
 bofoms in honour of this hero, on a fixed day toward funfet. 
 There alfo was the town-hall, in which extemporary harangues 
 were fpoken, and compofitions recited. It was hung round 
 with bucklers for ornaments. A way led from it to the baths 
 through the Street of Silence ; and another to the market-place, 
 which was planned with ftreets between porticoes of the Doric 
 order adorned with altars and images. Among the temples one 
 had a circular periftyle or colonnade, but the image had been 
 removed and the roof was fallen, in the time of Paufanias. 
 The Theatre was antient, and was alfo a temple of Bacchus, 
 one of the deities principally adored at Elis. Minerva had a 
 temple in the citadel, with an image of ivory and gold made, it 
 was faid, by Phidias. At the gate leading to Olympia was the 
 monument of a perfon, who was buried, as an Oracle had 
 commanded, neither within nor without the city. 
 
 The ftrudlurcs of Elis feem to have been raifed with mate- 
 rials far lefs elegant and durable than the produce of the Ionian 
 and Attic quarries. The ruins are of brick, and not confidera- 
 ble, confifting of pieces of ordinary wall, and an odtagon 
 building with niches, which, it is fuppofed, was the temple with 
 a circular periftyle. Thefe ftand detached from each other, 
 ranging in a vale fouthward from the wide bed of the river 
 Peneus, which, by the margin has feveral large ftones, perhaps 
 rcliques of the Gymnafium. The citadel was on a hill, which 
 has on the top fome remnants of wall. Olympia was diflaat 
 about three hundred fladia or thirty feven miles and a half. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
286 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 CHAP. LXXIV. 
 
 Set out for Olympia — Arrangement of the coaji — At a monajlery 
 — "ihe night — A tree frog — At Pyrgo — Pitch our tent by a 
 ruin — Gnats. 
 
 WE had been vifited in the garden at Gaftouni by a Turkifh 
 Aga called Mulah or T/ie Virtuofo Solyman, a perfon of fome 
 knowlege, uncommonly polite, and of a graceful deportment. He 
 informed us, that he had feen ruins by Miraca, near the Rophia 
 a very large river. The fite and diftance agreeing with Olympia, 
 it was hoped, that fpot would prove more important than Palae- 
 cpolis. We left Callivia in the evening, and paffing by fome 
 barrows, which probably were not far from the gate next Olym- 
 pia, and afterwards by one in the plain, travelled with Gaftouni 
 behind us toward the fea. 
 
 The arrangement of the coaft to the fouth of Cyllene was 
 as follows. After the mouth of the Peneus was Chelonatas, 
 the moft wefterly promontory of the Peloponnefus, diftant two 
 miles from Cyllene ; near which was a mountainous point called 
 Hormina or Hyrmina. Next was Point Pheia, with an incon- 
 liderable river of the fame name near it ; and before it an iflet j 
 and a port, diftant one hundred and twenty ftadia or fifteen miles 
 from Olympia, going the neareft way from the fea. A cape 
 fucceeded, called Ifthys, extending far out weftward. This 
 was one hundred and twenty ftadia from the ifland Cephallenia, 
 which was eighty ftadia or ten miles from Cyllene. After Idlhys 
 was the mouth of the river Alpheus, diftant two hundred and 
 eighty ftadia or thirty miles from Chelonatas, with a temple 
 near it and a grove of Diana, eighty ftadia or ten miles from 
 Olympia. The whole region abounded in places facred to 
 Venus and to Diana ; and, being well watered, in caves of the 
 
 Nymphs. 
 
TRAVELSiN GREECE. 287 
 
 Nymphs. By the roads were frequent ftatues of Mercury; and 
 on the capes, of Neptune. The iflands called Strophades were 
 thirty five miles from Zante. 
 
 We came to the fea-fide below Che!onatas, and travelled 
 fouthward to a monaftery of the Panagia Scaphidia or Virgin of 
 the Skiff's^ fituated on an eminence not far from Point Pheia, 
 on the north ; the beach fo infecure, that it is cuilomary to 
 load the boats on (hore and then pulh them into the water. 
 Near it is a lake fed by a fmall ftream, probably the ftagnant 
 water mentioned by Paufanias, meafuring about three ftadia, on 
 the road from Olympia to Elis by the plain. The fupper-bell 
 rung as we approached. We rode into the court, and faw the 
 priefts and monks feated at their refpedtive tables, or in compa- 
 nies on the ground. We difmounted, wondering that nobody 
 ftirred, or took any notice of us. We were informed after- 
 wards, that they had miftaken us for Frenchmen, and that their 
 ufual courtefy had been witheld from national prejudices. The 
 fociety was in a flourifhing ftate, and had partly completed 
 their defign of rebuilding the monaftery. 
 
 W E were conduded to a good apartment. In which we 
 fupped. Afterwards fome preferred fleeping in the courts 
 hoping to find the air cooler, and to be lefs molefted by vermin > 
 but innumerable gnats, which arife from the lake, difturbed us 
 with their continual buzzing, and preyed on us exceedingly. 
 The poultry, which roofted clofe by in a mulberry-tree, at 
 dawn of day fluttered down from the branches in long fuccef- 
 fion ; and at our next ftage we difcovered that myriads of large 
 fleas had taken poffeffion of the falds of our garments. 
 
 In the morning we made our early repaft, as ufual, on fruit,^ 
 bread and coffee. We were ready to depart, when one of my 
 companions found a tree-frog in the garden. The back fo ex- 
 adlly refembled in colour the green leaf of a lemon-tree, on 
 which it was fitting, that the reptile was not eafily to be dif- 
 
 tinguiftied,, 
 
2S8 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 tinguidied, exxept by its lively eyes. It was fmall, and in 
 fhape like a toad ; the belly of an ugly pale, fpeckled, the 
 hinder legs long. The toes, which are clammy, enable it to 
 raife or let down its body, as it occafionally does, fometimes 
 hanging by one foot, and to travel without danger over the 
 bending foliage. It was unwieldy and inadlive. On our fhak- 
 ing the bough to put it in motion, it fell to the ground, tired 
 perhaps with a former exertion ; and lay as dead. Its chirping 
 or filence are faid to be among the prognoftics of changes in the 
 weather. The Greeks call it Spordaca. The fpecies is men- 
 tioned by Pliny. 
 
 In two hours we came to a village named Pyrgo, from a houfe 
 in it with a tower. Upon a mount on the right hand was a 
 caftle called Katacoli, near which veflels of burthen are laden j 
 at the port, it is likely, mentioned as fifteen miles from Olympia. 
 The whole plain from Elis affords but fcanty fhade. Sheds, 
 covered with boughs, are the fhelter of the cattle at noon. 
 The peafants were bufy at their harveft-work. The wheat- 
 flieaves were colledted about the floors j and horfes, running 
 abreaft round a flake, were treading out the grain. The habi- 
 tations were very mean, chiefly low mud-built huts, many of 
 an oval form, with a fence before them. We tarried at Pyrgo 
 in a garden, while our men procured bread and other neceffaries, 
 it being expedled that our next Co?iac or refl:ing-place would be 
 ^eft:itute of every thing. 
 
 When the heat of noon was over, we crofled a hilly country, 
 and had frequent views of the Rophia or Alpheus, at a difliance. 
 This portion of the road to Olympia was called 'The mountainous^ 
 to diftinguifli it from that nearer Elis, which was in the plain. 
 The track by the bank of the river was deep-worn in a ridge of 
 the mountain. From it we turned to the left up a valley, 
 which there becomes more contracted j and in about four hours 
 were near a ruin. The fun was fet, and we pitched our tent 
 in a field, which had been fown with corn. 
 
 Here 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 289 
 
 Here gnats fwarmed around us innumerable, infefting us, 
 if poflible, more terribly, than ever before. We endeavoured 
 to fleep, in vain. Our Greeks too called on their Panagia, 
 but were not relieved. It is related, Jupiter on a like petition 
 from Hercules, whom they molefted while facrificing at Olym- 
 pia, drove them all beyond the river ; from which exploit he 
 acquired the title of Apomuius or the Fly-expeller : and the 
 Eleans, at the feafon of the Games, invoked him, facrificing a 
 bull ; when, it is faid, the gnats all periflied j or, which is 
 recorded as extraordinary, no infedl being lefs docile and intelli- 
 gent, retired in clouds out of the Olympic territory. 
 
 CHAP. LXXV. 
 
 Of Pi/a '—Of Olympia — Of the temple of Jupiter — T^he Jlatue 
 —-T'he great altar — Other altars — Riches of Olympia — 
 Solemnity of the games — Herodes a benefadtor — Kuin of 
 Olympia. 
 
 OLYMPIA was in a region named Pifatis from a city 
 which had been fubdued by the Eleans. The fite of Pifa was 
 on an eminence between two mountains called OfTa and Olym- 
 *pus i but in the time of Paufanias no wall or building remained, 
 and it was planted with vines. This place had been rendered 
 exceflively illuftrious by the power and reputation of its antient 
 princes, among whom were CEnomaus and Pelops j by the 
 Oracle and temple of the Olympian Jupiter j by the celebrity 
 of the grand Panegyris or general aflembly held at it ; and by 
 the renown of the Agon or Games, in which to be vidlorious 
 was deemed the very fummit of human felicity. 
 
 The glory of Olympia was not diminifhed by the ruin of 
 Pifa, The Altis or Sacred Grove was furrounded with a wall. 
 
 P p Within 
 
290 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 Within was the temple of Jupiter j and alfo a temple of Juno, 
 fixty three feet long, with columns round it, of the Doric order; 
 and a Metroum or temple of the mother of the gods, a large 
 Doric edifice i with holy Treafuries, , as at Delphi. Thefe, 
 and the Porticoes, a Gymnafmm, Prytaneum, and many more 
 buildings, chiefly in the inclofure, with the houfes of the 
 priefts and other inhabitants, made Olympia no inconfiderable 
 place. The Stadium was in the grove of wild olive-trees, 
 before the great temple ; and near it was the Hippodrome or 
 courfe for the races of horfes and chariots. The Alpheus 
 flowed by from Arcadia with a copious and very pleafant ftream, 
 which was received on the coaft by the Sicilian fea. 
 
 The temple of Jupiter was of the Doric order, fixty eight 
 feet high to the pediment, ninety five wide, and two hundred 
 and thirty long ; the cell encompaflled with columns. It was 
 eredted with the country-ftone ; the roof, not of earth baked, 
 but of Pentelic marble, the llabs difpofed as tiles j the way to 
 it up a winding ftaircafe. The two pediments were enriched 
 with fculpture, and one had over the centre a ftatue of Vidory 
 gilded j and underneath, a votive buckler of gold. At each 
 corner was a gilded vafe. Above the columns were fixed twenty 
 one gilded bucklers offered at the conclufion of the Achasan war 
 by the Roman general Mummius. The gates in the two fronts 
 were of brafs, and over them were carved the labours of Her- 
 cules. Within the cell, as in the Parthenon at Athens, were 
 double colonnades, between which was the approach to the 
 image. 
 
 The Jupiter of Olympia was accounted alone fufiicient to 
 immortalize its maker, Phidias. It was of ivory and .gold, the 
 head crowned with olive. In the right hand was a ftatue of 
 Vidlory ; in the left, a flowered fceptre, compofed of various 
 metals, on which was an eagle. The fandals were of gold, as alfo 
 the veftment, which was curioufly emboflTed with lilies and 
 animals. The throne was gold inlaid with ebony and ivory, 
 
 and 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 291 
 
 and ftudded with jewels, intermixed with paintings and exquifitc 
 figures in relievo. The pillars between the feet contributed to 
 its fupport. Before it were walls, ferving as a fence, decorated 
 principally with the exploits of Hercules; the portion oppofite to 
 the door of a blue colour. It was the office of a family de- 
 fcended from Phidias, called Phasdrunts or T^he PoUJIoers, to 
 keep the work bright and clean. The veil or curtain was cloth 
 rich with the purple dye of Phoenicia and with AfTyrian em- 
 broidery, an offering of king Antiochus j and was not drawn up 
 as in the temple of Diana at Ephefus, but was let down from 
 above by loofing the firings. The image imprefTed on the fpec- 
 tator an opinion that it was higher and wider than it meafured. 
 Its magnitude was fuch, that though the temple was very large, 
 the artift feemed to have erred in the proportions. The god, 
 fitting, nearly touched the ceiling with his head ; fuggefting an 
 idea, that if he were to rife up, he would deflroy the roof. A 
 part of the pavement before it was of black marble, inclofed in 
 a rim of Parian or white, where they poured oil to preferve the 
 ivory. Paufanias has remarked, that the dry air and lofty fitua- 
 tion of the citadel at Athens rendered water more proper for the 
 Minerva in the Parthenon. He enquired why neither was ufed 
 at Epidaurus, and was informed that the image and throne of 
 jiEfculapius ftood over a well. 
 
 The altar of Jupiter Olympius was of great antiquity, and 
 compofed of afhes from the thighs of the vidlims, which were 
 carried up and-confumed on the top with wood of the white 
 poplar-tree. The aflies alfo of the Prytaneum, in which a 
 perpetual fire was kept on a hearth, were removed annually on 
 a fixed day, and fpread on it, being firfl mingled with water 
 from the Alpheus. The cement, it was affirmed, could be made 
 with that fiuid only, and therefore this river was much refpedled, 
 and efleemed the moft friendly of any to the god. On each 
 fide of the altar were flone fteps. Its height was twenty two 
 feet. Girls and women, when allowed to be at Olympia, were 
 fuffered to afcend the bafement, which was an hundred 
 
 P p 2 and 
 
292 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 and twenty five feet in circumference. The people of Elis 
 facrificed daily, and private perlbns as often as they chofe. 
 
 Religion flouriflied at Olympia, and many deities were 
 vvorfhipped befides Jupiter, Paulanias has enumerated above 
 fixty altars of various fhapes and kinds. One, of the XJnk?io%vn 
 Gods, flood by the great altar. The people of Elis offered oa 
 all thefe, monthly ; laying on them boughs of olive ; burning 
 incenfe, and wheat mixed with honey j and pouring libations of 
 fuch liquors as the ritual prefcribed. At the latter ceremony 
 fometimes a form of prayer was ufed, and they fung hymns 
 compofed in the Doric dialedt. 
 
 Olympia preferved much longer than Delphi, and with 
 lefs diminution, the facred property, of which it was a fimilar 
 repofitory. Some images were removed by Tiberius Nero. 
 His fucceflbr Caius Caligula, who honoured Jupiter with the 
 familiar appellation of brother, commanded that his image 
 fhould be tranfported to Rome, but the architects declared it 
 was impoffible without deflroying the work ; and his commif- 
 fioner, Memmius Regulus, terrified by prodigies, ventured to 
 apologize for a difobedience, which endangered his life. The 
 God in the time of Paufanias retained his original fplendor. 
 The votive offerings of crowns, and chariots, and of chario- 
 teers, and horfes, and oxen, in brafs, the pretious images of 
 gold, ivory or amber, and the curiofities confecrated in the 
 temples, the treafuries, and other edifices, could not be viewed 
 without aftonifhment. The number of ffatues within the Altis 
 or grove was itfelf an amazing fpedtacle. Many were the 
 works of Myron, Lyfippus, and the prime artifts of Greece. 
 There kings and emperors were affembled ; and Jupiter towered 
 in brafs, of coloffal proportions, from twelve to near thirty feet 
 high. The clafs of men and boys, conquerors in the games, 
 in brafs, which was the largeff, continually increafed. The 
 ftatue of a Roman fenator, who had been vidtorious, was 
 
 eredling, 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 293 
 
 ere(5Hng, when the colleflion was viewed by Paufanias. Let 
 the reader perufe the detail given by that traveller, and imagine, 
 if he can, the entertainment, which Olympia muft then have 
 afforded to the conoiffeur, to the hiftorian, and the antiquary. 
 
 Pausanias declares, that a perfon might fee many things 
 wonderful to tell of, among the Greeks ; but that the Olympic 
 Agon or Games, with the Eleufinian Myfteries, partook in an 
 efpecial manner of the deity. "The former grand exhibition was 
 conducted with prodigious folemnity. The order of the exer- 
 cifes and the ceremonial were controlled by the Prasfedls, who 
 were commonly ten or twelve in number, eledled, one from 
 each tribe of the Eleans. Thefe, and the competitors, were 
 required to qualify by taking an oath, with dire imprecations, 
 in the prefence of Jupiter Horcius. The terrible image flood 
 in the council-chamber, bearing in either hand avenging thun- 
 der; and a boar was the vidlim. The fpedtators affembled in 
 the Stadium, which was of earth, like that of Epidaurus, and 
 had feats for the Prasfedts, who entered with the candidates by 
 a private way. Oppofite to them was an altar of white marble, 
 on which the prieftefs of Ceres fate j and before them on a 
 table were laid crowns of oleafter or wild olive, made from a 
 tree growing near the back front of the temple of Jupiter. 
 
 From the filence of Homer it has been argued, that the 
 four great fpedtacles of Games in Greece either did not exift, 
 when he wrote, or were in no repute. That of Olympia, 
 however, deduced its origin from remote antiquity, and continued 
 to a late period, undergoing feveral alterations. Among its 
 kindefk benefadlors is reckoned Herodes, who was afterwards 
 king of Judsea. Seeing on his way to Rome this relique of old 
 Greece fubfifting in a manner unworthy of its former renown, 
 and dwindling from poverty, he difplayed vaft munificence as Pre- 
 fident, and provided an ample revenue for its future fupport and 
 dignity } extending, it is faid, his liberality through the Eleans 
 
 to 
 
294 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 to the whole world, which was interefted in the profperity of 
 Olympia. 
 
 The computation of time by Olympiads, which began about 
 four hundred years after the deftrudlion of Troy, was uled until 
 the reign of Theodofius the Great ; when a new mode of reck- 
 oning, by Indidlions or from the vidtory of Auguftus Caefar at 
 Adtium, was introduced; the Olympic Games, with general 
 aflembly, were aboliflied ; and the image made by Phidias was 
 removed to Conftantinople. Jupiter and Pelops were banifhed 
 from the feat, which they had pofTefTed for ages. Olympia has 
 fince been forgotten in its vicinity, but the name will be ever 
 refpe(5led as venerable for its pretious asra by the chronologer 
 and hiftorian. 
 
 CHAP. LXXVI. 
 
 Vejiiges of Olympia — Mirdca — THoe river Alpheits. 
 
 EARLY in the morning we crolTed a fliallow brook, and 
 commenced our furvey of the fpot before us with a degree of 
 expedlation from which our difappointment on finding it almoft 
 naked received a confiderable addition. The ruin, which we 
 had feen in the evening, we found to be the walls of the cell of 
 a very large temple, ftanding many feet high and well-built, 
 the ftones all injured, and manifefting the labour of perfons, who 
 have endeavoured by boring to get at the metal, with which 
 they weer cemented. From a maffive capital remaining it was 
 colleded that the edifice had been of the Doric order. At 
 ■a diftance before it was a deep hollow, with ftagnant water and 
 brick-work, where, it is imagined, was the Stadium. Round 
 about are fcattered remnants of brick-buildings, and veftiges of 
 ftone-walls. The fite is by the road-fide, in a green valley, 
 between two ranges of even fummits pleafantly wooded. The 
 
 mountain 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 295 
 
 mountain once called Cronium is on the north, and on the 
 fouth the river Alpheus. 
 
 As Miraca was not far off we refolved to enquire there for 
 other ruins. It was a fmall village on a hill, perhaps that of 
 Pifa. Sheaves of wheat were colledted about an area or two, 
 and a few men with women and children were employed in 
 harveft-work. Our approach occafioned fome alarm, and they 
 appeared fhy, until we informed them of our bufmefs. We 
 defcended again into the valley, and travelled up it for two 
 hours. We then returned, and our men with difficulty pro- 
 cured fome fowls, on which we dined by the fliallow brook. 
 
 The Alpheus had now a majeftic ftream, which in winter is 
 greatly increafed by torrents ruftiing from the mountains. The 
 wide bed on each fide was dry. It is accounted the largefl river 
 in the country, and affords plenty of fifh. We faw a weir of 
 flakes made acrofs it, on which a man was watching, fitting 
 under a fhed roofed with boughs, over the middle of the 
 current. 
 
 CHAP. LXXVII 
 
 'Journey of Mr. Bocher — Ruin of a temple — Near Fhigalia. 
 
 Mr. JOACHIM Bocher, architeft, a native of Paris, vifited 
 us in the Lazaretto at Zante, which ifland he had adorned with 
 feveral elegant villas. This gentleman in November, 1765, 
 from Pyrgo croffed the Alpheus, and paffmg by Agolinizza 
 traverfed a wood of pines to Efidero, where is a Turkifti Khan. 
 An hour beyond, leaving the plain by the fea, he began to 
 afcend the mountains, and paffing by fome villages arrived at 
 Vervizza at night. This was a long journey. His defign was 
 to examine an antient building near Caritena. He was ftill 
 
 remote 
 
296 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 remote from that place, when he perceived a ruin, two hours 
 from Vervizza, which prevented his going any farther, 
 
 Th e ruin called the Columns ftands on an eminence flieltered 
 by lofty mountains. The temple, it is fuppofed, was that of 
 Apollo Epicurius, near Phigalia, a city of Arcadia. It was of 
 the Doric order, and had fix columns in front. The number, 
 which ranged round the cell, was thirty eight. Two at the 
 angles are fallen ; the reft are entire, in good prefervation, and 
 fupport their architraves. Within them lies a confufed heap. 
 The flone inclines to gray with reddifh veins. To its beauty 
 is added great precifion of execution in the workmanfhip. 
 Thefe remains had their efFed, ftriking equally the mind and the 
 eyes of the beholder. 
 
 Pausanias defcribes Phigalia as furrounded by mountains, 
 of which one, named Cotylium, was diftant about forty ftadia 
 or five miles. The temple of Apollo flood on this, at a place 
 called Baffae. It was planned by the fame architedt as the Par- 
 thenon at Athens, and had a roof of ftone. The Peloponne- 
 fians had no temple, one at Tegea excepted, fo much celebrated 
 for the beauty of the materials and the harmony of the propor- 
 tions. The god was ftyled Epicurius, from the aid he was 
 fuppofed to have given in a peftilence. The ftatue, which was 
 of brafs, and twelve feet high, had been removed, and was 
 then in the agora or market-place of Megalopolis. This city, 
 now called Leontari, was fifty ftadia or fix miles and a quarter 
 in circuit. The river Heliflbn ran through it into the Alpheus. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 297 
 
 CHAP. LXXVIII. 
 
 Our Jituation — We return to Chiarenza — Arrive at Zante — - 
 Perform quarantine — Remove from the Lazaretto. 
 
 W E had experienced fince our leaving Athens frequent and 
 alarming indifpofition. We had fuffered from fruits, not eafily 
 eaten with moderation ; from fatigue j from the violent heat of 
 the fun by day, and from damps and the torments inflidled by 
 a variety of vermin at night ; befides the badnefs of the air, 
 Vi'hich was now almoft peftilential on this fide of the Morea. 
 My companions complained. Our fervants were ill; and the 
 captain, whofe brown complexion was changed to fallow, had 
 grown mutinous, and declared he would go away with his veffel, 
 as he muft perform a long quarantine at Zante, if his return 
 were delayed j the annual unhealthinefs of the Morea toward 
 the end of harveft requiring increafe of caution, and the magif- 
 trates of the ifland reftraining the intercourfe with the continent 
 at that feafon. 
 
 In the afternoon vre mounted for Pyrgo. We pafTed the 
 night in the garden, in which we had rtopped before j the 
 gnats again molefting us exceedingly. Irritated on finding our 
 faces, hands, and legs carefully covered, the terrible infedt 
 buzzed about us with a droning noife, which founded in the 
 ear fcarcely lefs loud than a trumpet. The following day we 
 dined under a fpreading tree near a clear fpring among thickets j 
 probably that called antiently Piera, in the way through the 
 plain to Elis. There the Praefedls of Olympia and the matrons 
 chofen to prefide at the games in honour of Juno killed a pig 
 and were purified with holy water, before they entered on their 
 offices. We refted in the garden at Gaftouni, and fet out early 
 in the morning for Chiarenza j both my companions, with 
 
 Q^q fom« 
 
298 TRAVELS IN GREECE. 
 
 fome of our men, much indifpofed. We found the Athenian 
 lad, whom we had left behind ill of a tertian fever, mended. 
 The fick failor had embraced an opportunity, which offered, 
 and was gone home to Zante. 
 
 We failed from Chiarenza on Sunday the twentieth of July, 
 1766; and the fame evening entered the harbour of Zante, in 
 which a fquadron of Venetian fhips of war under admiral Emo 
 lay at anchor, waiting, as we were informed, for orders to 
 proceed againft the Dey of Algiers. We were hailed from the 
 land, and the boat going afliore, the Britifli conful John Sargint 
 Efquire acquainted us that we muft attend in the morning at 
 the Health-Office. We were then ordered to the Lazaretto to 
 perform a quarantine of fourteen days. 
 
 The Lazaretto is by the fea-fide at a difiance from the town. 
 We were lodged over our fervants and baggage in a chamber 
 without any furniture, the walls white- wafhed. The cuilomary 
 precautions were explained to us. In the evening our ward was 
 regularly locked; and no body was permitted to fee us but in 
 the prefence of our keeper. The Conful and Englifli merchants 
 vifited us, and with the former came a phyfician ; my compa- 
 nions and two of our fervants being ill of a fever, which was 
 afcribed to the bad air of the Morea. We continued to fupply 
 him with patients, until we left the illand. 
 
 The civility of the prior of the Lazaretto, and of the good 
 fathers of the Latin convent adjoining, with the attention of 
 our countrymen, rendered our confinement very tolerable. When 
 the term was nearly expired, a fmall gratuity to the chancellor 
 of the Health-Office obtained us a releafe. We paid our fees, 
 as directed by the conful, and gave money to the guard of 
 foldiers. In the evening we croffed in a boat to the town, 
 where a lodging was provided. A capacious harbour filled, be- 
 fides other veffels, with large (hips and glittering gallies, a 
 flourifliing city with fteeples and noble edifices, the found of 
 
 bells. 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 299 
 
 bells, the drefs and manners of Italy, were all articles to which 
 we had been long difufed. The tranfition from mifery and 
 defolation was as ftriking as it had been fudden. We drew a 
 mofl: favourable contraft, and rejoiced on our fafe arrival in 
 the happier regions of Chriftendom. 
 
 CHAP. LXXIX. 
 
 Of the ijland of Zante — The city — The Cprinth-grape— Currants 
 — ExtraB from Herodotus — The tar-fprings — Remarks — 
 Earthquakes — Not able to proceed — Occurrences at Zante-— 
 Embark for England. 
 
 ZANTE is a fmall ifland ' belonging to the Venetians, 
 full of villages and people ; called by the Greeks Zakynthos. 
 It confifts of two or three not very ample vallies, flieltered by 
 high bare mountains, well cultivated, and rich in their produce 
 as well as pleafant to the eye ; the foil fuiting the vine and the 
 olive, orange, lemon and citron-trees. Its wines and oil are 
 defervedly extolled. Its melons and peaches are of uncommon 
 fize and exquifite flavour. It has been ftyled not hyberbolically. 
 The Golden Ijland. But room is wanting, and a conliderable 
 portion of the profits arifing from currants, the flaple commo- 
 dity, is refunded for corn and cattle. They import live flock 
 daily from the Morea ; and in tempeftuous weather a temporary 
 famine not rarely enfues. The governor is appointed by the 
 republic, and is fubjed- to the fuperior jurifdidlion of a general, 
 who refides alternately at the places under his command. We 
 were introduced to this officer, who was then in the city, by 
 
 ' In circuit more than one hundred and fixty ftadia or twenty miles, and fixty 
 ftadia or feven miles and a half from Cephallenia. Strobe. In circuit thirty fix: 
 miles, Pliny. 
 
 , Q^q 2 the 
 
300 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 the conful. The inhabitants are chiefly Greeks, but wear the 
 Italian drefs, and are much latinized in their religious tenets and 
 ceremonies. They are divided by internal feuds, and are ex- 
 ceedingly addidled to revenge, perpetrating affaffinations even in 
 their churches. The Morea ferves them as it were for a fanc- 
 tuary, and abounds in fugitives for murder and mifdemeanours. 
 
 The city of Zante extends along the fliore, and is adorned 
 with feveral handfome ftrudtures. The Roman Catholics have 
 their churches, nunneries, and convents, with various orders of 
 friars ; and the Greeks, whom we had feen humble and deprefled, 
 here rivalled the fplendid pomp of their worfhip. High above 
 the town is a fteep round hill, crowned with a caftle ; the antient 
 citadel, called Pfophis, The governor now lives below, but 
 the fummit is inhabited, and feme religious houfes ftand on it. 
 The reflexion of the fun renders the town extremely hot in 
 fummer, but the inflamed air is then ufually tempered in the 
 day-time by the fea- breeze. The harbour is open to the north- 
 eaft. One fide is formed by a lofty promontory, on which is 
 the church and miraculous pidiure of the glorious Madonna di 
 Scoppo, from whofe power and efficacious interceflion many 
 fignal benefits, as they affirm, have been derived on the people. 
 At the oppofite extremity, by the fea-fide, is a copious fountain 
 of excellent water, fuppofed to come from the Morea, the 
 ftream bringing leaves of trees and plants not growing in the 
 iJland. The ma'idens are carefully concealed as in Turkey. 
 I faw a woman in a houfe, with the door open, bewailing her 
 little fon, whofe dead body lay by her, dreffed, the hair pow- 
 dered, the face painted and bedecked with leaf gold. 
 
 The Corinth-grape, for which the ifland is now noted, was 
 the produce chiefly of the country near the Ifthmus, when it 
 began to be particularly efteemed. We were prefented with 
 bunche? newly ripened, while in the Lazaretto, and afterwards 
 eat of them daily with much pleafure. It is a fmall fpecies, the 
 clufters large, the colour black or a deep purple. The flocks, 
 
 as 
 
 \ 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 301 
 
 as ufual, are planted in rows, and the leaf is bigger than in the 
 common vine. As a good f^afon for the harveft is of great 
 confequence to the people, they generally implore the intercef- 
 fion of their faints; folemnly vifiting their churches, the priefts 
 and magiftrates and perfons of rank, both Italians and Greeks, 
 walking in proceflion, in pairs, with lighted tapers in their 
 hands. If thefe difappoint them, and the emergency require it, 
 the glorious and miraculous pidlure of the Madonna di Scoppa 
 is expofed, and fails not to influence the weather to their wifhes. 
 
 The grapes intended to be preferved as currants are fpread,. 
 when gathered, in beds on the ground. When dried by the 
 fun and air, they are tranfported to the city on horfes and mules 
 guarded by armed peafants j and poured down a hole into maga- 
 zines, in which they cake together. When the price is fixed 
 and the duties are paid, the fruit is dug out with iron-crows, 
 and ftamped into cafks by men with legs and feet bare. In the 
 (hips it fweats, and, as we experienced, often fills the veffel 
 with a ftench fcarcely tolerable. The Englifh, who have two 
 or three merchants refident there, are the principal confumers. 
 The Dutch partake, and fupply the other northern nations. 
 The iflanders believe it is purchafed to be ufed in dying, and in 
 general are ignorant of the many difhes in which currants are 
 an ingredient. Our cook made a pudding, which was equally 
 a fubje<a: of wonder and applaufc in the family where we 
 lived. 
 
 The tar-fprings of Zante are a natural curiofity deferving 
 notice. " I myfelf, fays the venerable hiftorian and traveller 
 *' Herodotus, have feen tar brought up out of a lake and water 
 ** in Zacynthus. And indeed the lakes are feveral, but the 
 biggeft is feventy feet wide every way, and twelve deep. 
 Into this they let down a pole with a myrtle-bough tied tO' 
 it, and then bring up tar on the myrtle-bough, in fmell like 
 to Afphaltus, in other refpedls fuperior to the tar of Pieria. 
 They then pour it down into a pit dug near the lakej and, when 
 
 '* enough 
 
 « 
 
302 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 *' enough is collected, in like manner from the pit into earthen 
 ■" veflels. All that falls back into the lake, going under ground, 
 *' appears again in the fea, which is diftant about four ftadia." 
 The Pierian tar was reckoned the befl: made in Greece. 
 
 The tar is produced in a fmall valley, about two hours from 
 the town, by the fea, and encompaffed with mountains, except 
 toward the bay; in which are a couple of rocky iflets. The 
 fpring, which is moft diftindt and apt for infpedtion, rifes on 
 the farther fide, near the foot of the hill. The well is circular, 
 and four or five feet in diameter. A fliining film, like oil, 
 mixed with fcum, fwims on the top. You remove this with a 
 bough, and fee the tar at the bottom, three or four feet beneath 
 the furface, working up, it is faid out of a filTure in the rock ; 
 the bubbles fwelling gradually to the fize of a large cannon-ball, 
 when they burft, and the fides Icifurely finking, new ones 
 fucceed, increafe, and in turn fubfide. The water is limpid, 
 and runs off with a fmart current. After drinking of it, I was 
 much heated. The ground near is quaggy, and will (hake 
 beneath the feet, but is cultivated. The grapes, of which we 
 eat, were exquifite. At fome diftance, oppofite, are the other 
 wells, fo nearly contiguous as not eafily to be counted, or indeed 
 examined, the fpot being marifliy. Thefe have lefs wafte water, 
 are deeper, of a ftronger tafte, a blacker dye, and more fullen 
 afpedl. We filled fome veflels with tar, by letting it trickle 
 into them from the boughs which we immerfed ; and this is the 
 method ufed to gather it from time to time into pits, where 
 it is hardened by the fun, to be barreled, when the quantity 
 is fufiicient, and taxed as an article of the revenue. The odour 
 reaches a confiderable way. We were told that a fpring exifts 
 likewife in the fea, near the fhore ; and that the film floats on 
 the fmooth furface in calm weather. 
 
 Tar-furnaces are numerous in Turkey. They are formed 
 in a bank, the bottom narrow ; and filled with fappy wood of 
 pines, cleaved into pieces. A fire is kindled at the top, and, 
 
 burning 
 
TRAVELS IN GREECE. 503 
 
 burning downward, the juice, which diflils, finds a paflage out 
 at a vent below. It has been conjedlured, that the thick fluid 
 fubftance emerging with the w'ater is generated by a procefs 
 analogous to this ; fubterraneous fire feeding on fulphureous 
 matter, of which a portion is difcharged at thefe apertures. 
 Our thermometer rofe in the air from feventy five to eighty 
 degrees as the heat of the fun increafcd during our ftay, and in 
 the different wells from fixty four to feventy. A communica- 
 tion, it is fuppofed, may fubfifl: between thefe and fprings of a 
 fimilar nature by Dyrrachium and Apollonia, cities on the coaft 
 of lUyria ; and their common fountain may be fome diflant 
 Volcano. 
 
 The tar is faid to be emitted mofl: abundantly when the- 
 wind is wefterly, and when earthquakes happen. Thefe are 
 frequent. Soon after our arrival in the Lazaretto, we felt & 
 very fmart fhock, which did much damage in the neighbouring 
 ifland of Cephallenia ; and was repeated, but with lefs violence, 
 fix times in the fpace of about twenty four hours. The Zanti- 
 otes had been familiarized to this fource of calamity, and the 
 terror of it was then in a manner fwallowed up in their appre- 
 henfions for the approaching vintage. 
 
 On leaving Athens it was our purpofe, after refrefhing at 
 Zante, to proceed to Ithaca, Cephallenia, and Corfu, the 
 countries of Ulyffes and Alcinous; and from the latter ifland to 
 Brindifi and Naples. We were compelled to abandon that plaa 
 by the difficulty of procuring from Leghorn fo large a fum of 
 money as was neceffary, and, befides other confiderations, by 
 the infirm ftate of health, under which we laboured. The 
 conful accepted our bills for three hundred Venetian zechins; of 
 which near one hundred and thirty were remitted to Mr. Paul* 
 the conful at Patrs, who had mofl: readily and obligingly fup- 
 plied us to that amount. Our return to England was refolved 
 on, and we waited impatiently for the /hips exped;ed from. 
 
 Venice 5; 
 
304 TRAVELS in GREECE. 
 
 Venice ; whither it is required that all veffels go before they 
 lade with currants at Zante. 
 
 During our refidence in the city, the houfe of a perfon who 
 had fled from jullice was razed to the ground by a party of 
 foldiers ; and the body of a ftate-prifoner, one Balfamachi of 
 Cephallenia, who had been fent in irons from Conftantinople, 
 was expofed for a day on a gallows. He fucceeded us in our 
 apartments in the Lazaretto, and, when his quarantine expired, 
 was privately ftrangled there, conveyed in a boat acrofs the 
 harbour, and fufpended in the morning early ; a paper hanging 
 on his breaft, infcribed with his name, his country, and crime 
 in capital letters. 
 
 Some fmaller vefTels, which arrived, brought us intelligence 
 that the Roman Emperor, Capt. Lad, and the Sea-horfe, 
 Capt. James for London, were preparing to fail from Venice. 
 We agreed for a paflage, and put our baggage and provifions on 
 board the Roman Emperor, but were induced to remand them ; 
 and then fixed our hopes on the Sea-horfe. That fliip tarrying 
 elfewhere, we embarked in the evening, on Sunday September 
 the firft. New Stile, 1766, in the brig Diligence, Captain Long, 
 carrying five men and two boys, bound for Briftol. After a 
 ftormy and perilous voyage we anchored in King-road on the 
 fecond of November ; but the Sea-horfe was loft at Scilly on 
 the eleventh of the following month. 
 
 P I N I S. 
 

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