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 VOLCANO OF CDSEGUINA 
 
 ISLAND OF MIANGUIRA . 
 
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 ISLAND OF CONCHAGUITA 
 
 VOLCANO OF AMAPALA OR CONCHAQUA. 
 
 >/' //if /i7o7to.vcrV 7jt/:e.r--()cecui,r.c (<tn<i/ . 
 
NICARAGUA : 
 
 ITS PEOPLE, SCENERY, MONUMENTS, 
 
 AND THE PBOPOBED 
 
 INTEROCEANIC CANAL. 
 
 NUMEROUS ORIGINAL MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 BY 
 
 E. G. SQUIER, 
 
 LATE CHARGE-D'AFFAIRES OP THE UNITED STATES TO THE REPUBLICS OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 
 
 Hie locus est gemini janua vasta maris." 
 
 Ovid. 
 
 IN TWO VOLUMES. 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 LONDON : 
 
 LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, AND LONGMANS. 
 
 1852. 
 
m 
 
 
 ^, 
 
' 2f 
 
 CONTENTS OF YOLUME I. 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 CHAPTER I. — Central America; its Geography; Topogra- 
 phy; Climate, etc., 1-21 
 
 CHAPTER II. — Nicaragua; its Extent, Topography, Climate, 
 Population, Agricultural and Mineral Productions, 
 etc., etc., 21-48 
 
 NARRATIVE. 
 
 CHAPTER I— The Brig Francis— Departure from New York— San 
 Domingo — The Coast of Central America — Monkey Point — Shrewd 
 Speculations — A Naked Pilot — Almost a Shipwreck — San Juan de 
 Nicaragua — Music of the Chain Cable — A Pompous Official — Delivering 
 a Letter of Introduction — Terra lirma again — "Naguas" and "Guipils" 
 — The Town and its Laguna — Snakes and Alligators — Practical Equality 
 — Celt vs. Negro — A Wan Policeman — The British Consul General for 
 Musquitia — " Our House" in San Juan — An Emuete — Pigs and Policy 
 — A Viscomte on the Stump — A Serenade — Mosquito Indians — A Pic- 
 ture of Primitive Simplicity, 49 
 
 CHAPTER II.— The Port of San Juan de Nicaragua ; its Position ; 
 Climate; Population; Edifices of its Inhabitants; its Insects; The 
 Nigua; The Scorpion, etc.; its Exports and Imports; Political Condi- 
 tion ; Importance, Present and Prospective ; Seizure by the English, 
 etc. — Mouth of the River San Juan — The Colorado Mouth — The Tauro 
 — Navigation of the River — Bongos and Piraguas — Los Marineros — 
 Discovery and Early History of the Port of San Juan, . . .71 
 
 CHAPTER TIL— The Magnates of San Juan— Captain Samuel Shepherd 
 — Royal Grants — Vexatious Delays — Imposing Departure — Entrance 
 of the River San Juan — " Peeling " of the Marineros — Character of the 
 Stream — The Juanillo — An Immemorial Stopping-place — Bongos and 
 
w mm mb wmwk mmmm 
 
 fil 
 
 VI 
 
 CONTEXTS. 
 
 their Equipments and Stores — Meals — Esprit du Corps among the 
 Boatmen — The "Oracion" — Queer Caprices — Medio — Our Accommo- 
 dation — A Specimen Night on the River — Morning Scenes and Impres- 
 sions — Bongo Life — The Colorado Mouth — Change of Scenery — The 
 Iguana — A Solitary Establishment — Tropical Ease — The Rio Serapiqui — 
 Fight between the Nicaraguans and the English — "A famous victory" 
 — The Rio San Francisco — Remolino Grande — Picturesque River 
 Views — The Hills and Fuss of San Carlos — Thunder Storms — The 
 Machuca Rapids — Melchora Indians — Rapids of Mico and Los Valos — 
 Rapids of the Castillo — Island of Bartola — Capture by Lord Nelson — 
 The "Castillo Viejo," or Old Castle of San Juan — "A Dios California!'' 
 — Ascend to the Ruins — Strong Works — Capture of the Fort by the 
 English in 1780 — Failure of the Expedition against Nicaragua ; a Scrap 
 of History — Passage of the Rapids — Different Aspect of the River — A 
 Black Eagle — Ninety Miles in Six Days — The Port of San Carlos — 
 Great Lake of Nicaragua — Land at San Carlos — The Commandante — 
 Hearty Welcome — Novel Scenes — Ancient Defences — View from the 
 Fort — The Rio Frio — The Guatosos Indians — A Paradise for Alligators 
 — Some Happy Institutions of theirs, 85 
 
 CHAPTER IV. — San Carlos — Dinner at the Commandante's — Introduc- 
 tion to "Tortillas y Frijoles" — A Siesta — News of the attempted Revo- 
 lution — Anticipating events, and what happened to the Commandante 
 after we left — Departure under a Military Salvo — View of San Carlos 
 from the Lake — Lake Navigation — Card Playing — Gorgeous sunset — 
 A Midnight Storm — San Migueleto, and the " Rath of the Naides" — 
 Primitive Simplicity — A Day on the Lake — "Ml Pedernal" — A Bath 
 with Alligators — An " Empacho" — A Trial at Medicine, and great suc- 
 cess — Second Night on the Lake — The Volcanoes of Momobacho, Ome- 
 tepec, and Madeira — Volcanic Scenery — The Coast of Chontales — The 
 Crew on Politics — "Timbucos" and " Calandracas," or a Glance at 
 Party Divisions — Arrival at "Los Corals" — Some account of them — 
 Alarming News — A Council of War — Faith in the United States flag 
 — The Island of Cubi — More News, and a Return of the " Embacho" — 
 Distant View of Granada — Making a Toilet — Bees — Arrival at the 
 Ruined Fort of Granada — How they Land there — Sensation amongst 
 the spectators — Entrance to the City — The Abandoned Convent of San 
 Francisco — The Houses of the Inhabitants — First Impressions — Sol- 
 diers and Barricades — Thronged Streets — Senor Don Frederico Derby- 
 shire — " Our Host" — A Welcome — Official Courtesies — Our Quarters — 
 First Night in Granada, . . . . . .119 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 Vll 
 
 CHAPTER V. — Reception-Day — General Respect and Admiration for 
 the United States — An Evening Ride — The Plaza — Churches — Hospi- 
 tal — The "Jalteva" — Deserted Municipality — Melancholy Results of 
 Faction — The Arsenal — Natural Defences of the City — " Campo Santo" 
 — An Ex-Director and his "Hacienda" — Shore of the Lake in the 
 Evening — Old Castle — The " Oracion" — An Evening Visit to the 
 Senoritas — Opera amidst Orange Groves — "Alertas" and "Quien Vi- 
 vas?" — The Granadinas at Home — An Episode on Women and Dress 
 — Mr. Estevens — "Los Malditos Inglesas" — A Female Antiquarian 
 Coadjutor — " Cigaritas" — Indian Girls — Countrymen — An American 
 "Medico" — Native Hospitality to Strangers — The Ways Infested by 
 "Facciosos" — An American turned Back — Expected assault on the 
 City, and Patriotic Resolves " To Die under the American Flag" — A 
 note on Horses and Saddles — Visit to the Cacao estates of the Malac- 
 cas — The Cacao Tree — Day-Dreams —An Adventure Almost — Grievous 
 Disappointment — Somoza, the Robber Chief — Our Armory — Feverish- 
 ness of the Public Mind — Life Under the Tropics — A Frightened 
 American, who had " seen Somoza," and his Account of the Interview 
 — Somoza's Love for the Americans — Good News from Leon — Ap- 
 proach of the General-in-Chief, and an Armed American Escort — Con- 
 dition of Public Affairs — Proclamation of the Supreme Director — 
 Decrees of the Government — Official Announcements, and Public Ad- 
 dresses—How they Exhibited the Popular Feeling — Nicaraguan Rhe- 
 toric — Decisive Measures to put down the Insurgents — General call to 
 Arms — Martial Law — Publication of a " Banda" — Great Preparations 
 to Receive the General-in-Chief and his "Veteranos" — No further fear 
 of the "Facciosos" — A Break-neck Ride to tin; "Laguna de Salinas" — 
 A Volcanic lake — Descent to the water — How came Alligators there ? 
 — Native "Aguardiente" "nol bad to take" — Return to the City — A 
 Religious Procession — The Host — Increasing Tolerance of the People — 
 Preparations for " La Maniana." ..... 145 
 
 CHAPTER VI.— Discovery of Nicaragua in 1522; Gil Gonzales deAvila, 
 and his march into the Country ; Lands at Nicoya ; Reaches Nicaragua 
 and has an Interview with its Cazique; Is closely questioned ; Marches 
 to Dirianga, where he is at first received, but afterwards attacked and 
 forced to retreat ; Peculiarities of the Aborigines; Their wealth ; Arri- 
 val of Francisco Hernandez de Cordova ; He subdues the country, and 
 founds the cities of Granada and Leon ; Return of Gonzales ; Quarrels 
 between the Conquerors ; Pedro Arias de Avila, the first Governor of 
 Nicaragua; His death; Is succeeded by Roderigo de Contreras; His 
 
■HHi 
 
 yriii CONTENTS. 
 
 son, Hernandez de Contreras, rebels again Spain ; Meditates the entire 
 independence of all Spanish America on the Pacific; Succeeds in car- 
 rying Nicaragua ; Sails for Panama ; Captures it ; Marches on Nombre 
 de Dios, but dies on the way ; Failure of his daring and gigantic Pro- 
 ject; Subsequent Incorporation of Nicaragua in the Vice-Royalty of 
 Guatemala — The City of Granada in 1665, by Thomas Gage, an English 
 Monk; Nicaragua called "Mahomet's Paradise;" The Importance of 
 Granada at that Period ; Subsequent Attack by the Pirates, in 1668 ; 
 is Burnt; Their account of it; The Site of Granada; Eligibility of its 
 Position ; Population ; Commerce ; Foreign Merchants ; Prospective 
 Importance — Lake Nicaragua; Its Discovery and Exploration; Inter- 
 esting account of it by the Chronicler Oviedo, written in 1541 ; Its 
 Outlet Discovered by Captain Diego Machuca; The wild beasts on its 
 Shores ; The Laguna of Songozana ; Sharks in the Lake, their Rapacity ; 
 Supposed Tides in the Lake ; Explanation of the Phenomenon, . 181 
 
 CHAPTER VIL— Narrative Continued— Arrival of the General-in-Chief 
 — The Army — Fireworks by Daylight — Prisoners — Interview with 
 Gen. Munoz — Arrival of the Californian Escort — "Piedras Antiguas" — 
 The Stone of the Big Mouth— "El Chifiador"— Other Antiquities- 
 Preparations for Departure — Carts and " Carreteros" — Vexatious De- 
 lays — Departure — How I got a Good Horse for a Bad Mule on the 
 Road — Distant View of the Lakes — The Freedom of the Forest— Arri- 
 val at Malaya — Grand Entree — Deserted Plaza — A Military Execution 
 — A "Posada" — "Hijos de Washington" — Disappointed Municipality — 
 We escape an Ovation — Road to Nindiri — Apostrophe to Nindiri! — 
 Overtake the Carts—" Alguno Fresco" — Approach the Volcano of 
 Masaya — The "Mai Pais" — Lava Fields — View of the Volcano — Its 
 Eruptions — "El Inferno de Masaya," the Hell of Masaya — Ovicdo's 
 account of his Visit to it in 1529 — Activity at that Period — The Ascent 
 — The Crater — Superstitions of the Indians — The Old Woman of the 
 Mountain—The Descent of the Fray Bias Castillo into the Crater, 197 
 
 CHAPTER VIII —Magnificent Views of Scenery— " Relox del Sol"— 
 John Jones and Antiquities — An " Alarm ;" Revolvers and a Rescue — 
 Distant Bells — Don Pedro Blanco — Managua — Another Grand Entree — 
 Our Quarters — Supper Service — Enacting the Lion — Virtues of Aguar- 
 diente — An "Obsequio," or, Torch-light Procession in honor of the 
 United States — A National Anthem — Night with the Fleas — Fourth of 
 July and a Patriotic Breakfast — Saint Jonathan — Leave Managua — Ma- 
 tearas — Privileges of a " Compadre" — Lake of Managua — A magnificent 
 View — The Volcano of Momotombo — A Solitary Ride — Geological 
 
mm 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 IX 
 
 Puzzle — Nagarote — The Posada — Mules abandoned — A Sick Califor- 
 nian — Dinner at a Padre's — The Santa Annita — Virtues of a piece of 
 Stamped Paper — A Storm in the Forest — Pueblo Nuevo — Five Daugh- 
 ters in Satin Shoes — Unbroken Slumbers — Advance on Leon — Ax- 
 usco — A Fairy-Glen — The great Plain of Leon — A " touch" of Poetry — 
 Meet the American Consul — A Predicament — Cavalcade of Reception — 
 New illustration of Republican Simplicity — El Convento — A Metamor- 
 phosis — The Bishop of Nicaragua — Forest, Miss Clifton, Mr. Clay — 
 Criticism on Oratory — Nine Volcanoes in a row — Distant View of the 
 Great Cathedral— The City — Imposing Demonstrations — The Grand 
 Plaza — A Pantomimic Speech and Reply — The Ladies, " God bless 
 them!" — House of the American Consul — End of the Ceremonies — 
 Self-congratulations thereon — A Serenade — Martial aspect of the City — 
 Trouble anticipated— Precautions of the Government, . . 225 
 
 CHAPTER IX.— The City of Leon— Originally built on the Shores of 
 Lake Managua — Cause of its Removal — Its present Site — Dwellings of 
 its Inhabitants— Style of Building — Devastation of the Civil Wars — 
 Public Buildings — The Great Cathedral — Its Style of Architecture; In- 
 terior ; Magnificent View from the Roof— The " Cuarto de los Obis- 
 pos," or Gallery of the Bishops — The University — The Bishop's Pal- 
 ace — "Casa del Gobierno" — "Cuartel General" — The Churches of La 
 Merced ; Calvario ; Recoleccion — Hospital of San Juan de Dios — Stone 
 Bridge— Indian Municipality of Subtiaba-- Population of Leon — Pre- 
 dominance of Indian Population— Destruction of Stocks — Mixed Races 
 — Society of Leon — The Females; their Dress— Social Gatherings: the 
 " Tertulla" — How to " break the Ice" and open a Ball — Native Dances — 
 Personal cleanliness of the People — General Temperance — "Aguardi- 
 ente" and " Italia " — Food— The Tortilla — Frijoles— Plantains— The 
 Markets — Primitive Currency — Meals — Coffee, Chocolate, and " Tiste" 
 — Dulces — Trade of Leon, ..... 257 
 
 CHAPTER X.— The Vicinity of Leon— The Bishop's Baths— Fuenta de 
 Axusco — " Cerro de Los Americanos" — A Military Ball and Civic Din- 
 ner — General Guerrero — Official Visit from the Indian Municipality of 
 Subtiaba — Simon Roque — A Secret — Address and Reply — Visit Re- 
 turned — TheCabildo — An Empty Treasury — "Subtiaba, Leal y Fiel" — 
 Royal Cedulas — Forming a Vocabulary — "Una Decima" — The Indians 
 of Nicaragua ; Stature ; Complexion; Disposition; Bravery; Industry; 
 Skill in the Arts — Manufacture of Cotton — Primitive Mode of Spin- 
 ning — Tyrian Purple — Petates and Hammocks — Pottery — " Aguacales," 
 and " Jicoras" — Costume — Ornaments — Abori°inal Institutions — The 
 
CONTENTS, 
 
 Conquest of Nicaragua — Enormities practiced toward the Indians — 
 Present Condition of the Indians — The Sequel of Somoza's Insurrec- 
 tion — Battles of the Obraje and San Jorge — Capture and Execution of 
 Somoza — Moderate Policy of the Government — Return of General 
 Munoz — Medals — Festival of Peace — Novel Procession — A Black 
 Saint, ........ 277 
 
 CHAPTER XL — Antiquities — Ancient Statue in the Grand Plaza — 
 Monuments on the Island of Momotombita in Lake Managua — Deter- 
 mine to visit them — The Padre Paul — Pueblo Nuevo and our Old Host- 
 ess — A Night Ride — "Hacienda de las Vacas" — A Night amongst the 
 " Vaqucros" — The Lake — Our Bongo — Visit the Hot Springs of Momo- 
 tombo — Attempt to reach one of the "Infernales" of the Volcano — Ter- 
 rible Heat — Give up the Attempt — Oviedo's Account of the Volcano — 
 " Punta de los Pajaros" — Momotombita — Dread of Rattlesnakes — The 
 Monuments — Resolve to remove the largest — A Nest of Scorpions — 
 Tribulation of our Crew — Hard work — How to ship an Idol — Virtues 
 of Aguardiente — "Purchasing an Elephant" — More " Piedras Antiguas" 
 — The Island once Inhabited — Supposed Causeway to the Main-land — 
 A Perilous Night Voyage — Difficult Landing — Alacran, or Scorpion 
 Dance — A Foot-march in the Forest — The " Hacienda de los Vacas" 
 again — Scant Supper — Return to Leon — The Idol sent, via Cape Horn, 
 to Washington — A Satisfied Padre — Idols from Subtiaba — Monstrous 
 Heads — Visit to an Ancient Temple — Fragments — More Idols — Indian 
 Superstitions — "El Toro" — Lighting on Two Legs — A Chase alter 
 Horses — Sweet Revenge — "Capilla de la Piedra"— Place of the Idol — 
 The Fray Francisco de Bobadilla — How he Converted the Indians — 
 Probable History of my Idols — The Ancient Church " La Mercedes de 
 Subtiaba" — Its Ruins — " Agarrapatas" — Tropical Insects — Snakes and 
 Scorpions versus Fleas and Wood-ticks — -A Choice of Evils, . 301 
 
 CHAPTER X1L— Amusements in Leon— Cock Fighting— " Patio de Los 
 Gallos" — Decline of the Cock-pit— Gaming — Bull Baiting — Novel Rid- 
 ing — "Una Sagrada Funeion," or Mystery — A Poem, and a Drama — 
 " Una Compania de Funambulos," or Rope Dancers — Great Anticipa- 
 tions — A Novel Theatre — The Performance -" La Jovena Catalina" 
 and the "Eccentric Clown, Simon" — "Tobillos Q-ruesos," or Big 
 Ankles" — "Fiestas," and Saints' Days — The "Fiesta" of St. Andrew — 
 Dance of the Devils — Unearthly Music — All-Saints' Day — A Carnival 
 in Subtiaba— An Abrupt Conclusion, .... 329 
 
 CHAPTER XIIL— A Sortie from Leon- Quesalguaque— El Estero de 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 XI 
 
 Dona Paula — The "Monte de San Juan"— Summary way of disposing 
 of "Ladrones" — "El Tigre," Jaguar, or Ounce, Its Habits; How- 
 Hunted — The " Lion," or Puma — The " Coyote" — Posultega — A Speci- 
 men Padre — Sobrinas — Chichigalpa— Poised Thunder-storm — The Ora- 
 cion — Hacienda of San Antonio — Chinandega — a Challenge — El Viejo 
 — Familiar Fixtures — An Enterprising Citizen and his Tragic Fate — A 
 Decaying Town — Mules vs. Horses — Visit to the Haciendas — An Indigo 
 Estate, and a Mayor Domo — Fine View — The Sugar Estate of San 
 Geronimo — Bachelor Quarters and Hacienda Life — A Fruit Garden — ■ 
 The Bread Fruit — Sugar-mills, and the Manufacture of Aguardiente — 
 A Sinful Siesta — Visit From the Municipality — "Una Cancion" — Chi- 
 nandega by Daylight — Realcjo — Port and Harbor — The Progress 
 of Enterprize — The Projected New Town of Corinth — Return to 
 Leon, . . . . . . . .345 
 
 CHAPTER XIV.— The Priesthood in Nicaragua— Decline in the In- 
 fluence of the Church — Banishment of the Archbishop — Suppression of 
 the Converts — Prohibition of Papal Lulls — Legitimization of the Chil- 
 dren of Priests — The Three Abandoned Convents of Leon — Padre Car- 
 tine, the last of the Franciscans — Reception, or Clock-room — The Padre's 
 Pets; Eis Oratory; Private Apartments; Workshop — A Skull and its 
 History — The Eglesia del Recoleccion — The Padre as a Landlord; As 
 a Painter; As an Uncle; And as Negociator in Marriage — An Auspi- 
 cious Omen — Death of the Vicar of the Dioccss of Nicaragua — His Obse- 
 quies — A Funeral Oration — Priestly Eloquence — An Epitaph — General 
 Funeral Ceremonies — Death as an Angel of Mercy — Burial Practices — 
 Capellanias; Their Effects, and the Policy of the Government in Re- 
 spect to them — Popular Bigotry and Superstition — An Ancient Indul- 
 genci — The Potency of an Ejaculation— Remission of Sins — Penetencias 
 — Rationale of the Practice — Novel Penances — Turning Sins to Good 
 Account — Good from Evil — System of the Padre Cartine — The Diocess 
 of Nicaragua, and its Bishop — General Education — Public Schools — The 
 Universities of Leon and Granada — A. Sad Picture, . . .'!<;!) 
 
 CHAPTER XV. — Visits to the capital city, Managua — Legislativ ■ .As- 
 sembly; How to procure a Quorum — -Executive Message — Ratili <n 
 of Treaty with the United States — Antiquities — Lake of Nih 
 nuertas — Dividing Ridge — Traces of Volcanic action — Hacien le 
 Ganado — An Extensive Prospect — Extinct Crater — Ancient Pai 
 on the Cliffs — Symbolical Feathered Serpent — A Natural Tei 
 Superstitions of the Indians — Salt Lake — Laguna de Las Lava'! 
 A Courier — Three Months Later from Home — The Shore of Lake Man- 
 
i^MB 
 
 nil 
 
 Xll 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 agua — Aboriginal Fisheries — Ancient Carving — Population of Managua 
 — Resources of Surrounding Country — Coffee — Inhabitants — Visit Tipi- 
 tapa — Sunrise on the Lake — Hot Springs — Outlet of Lake — Mud and 
 Alligators — Dry Channel — Village of Tipitapa— Surly Host — Salto de 
 Tipitapa — Hot Springs again— Stone Bridge — Face of the Country — 
 Nicaragua or Brazil Wood — Estate of Pasquel — Practical Communism 
 — Matapalo or Kill-tree — Landing and Estero of Pasquel or Panaloya — 
 Return — Depth of Lake Managua — Communication between the two 
 Lakes — Popular Errors, ...... 397 
 
 

 ■ 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 LITHOGRAPHY BY SARONY AND MAJOR J WOOD ENGRAVINGS BY J. W. ORR : FROM 
 ORIGINAL DRAWINGS, CniEFLY BY JAMES m'dONOUGH. 
 
 ORIGINAL MAPS. 
 
 FIQ. PAGE. 
 
 1. Map of Nicaragua, part of Honduras, and Mosquito Shore, 
 
 Vol. i., 2 
 
 2. Map of the Plain of Leon, and the Bay of Fonseca, Vol. ii., . 239 
 
 3. Sectional Map of Rio Tipitapa, connecting Lakes Nicaragua 
 
 and Managua, Vol. i., 419 
 
 4. Detailed Map of the River San Juan, from Actual Survey, 
 
 showing its channels, soundings, etc., Vol, ii., . . . 217 
 
 5. Map of the Port of San Juan de Nicaragua, Vol. ii., . . 217 
 
 6. Map of the Isthmus between the Mouth of the Rio Sapoa on 
 
 Lake Nicaragua, and the Gulf of Bolanos on the Pacific 
 
 Vol. ii., 217 
 
 7. Vertical Section of the country between the Port of San 
 
 Juan and the Estero Real de Q-olfo de Fonseca, Vol. ii., . 217 
 
 8. Section between mouth of Rio Lajas, on Lake Nicaragua, and 
 
 the port of San Juan del Sur, on the Pacific, Vol. ii., . 217 
 
 9. Section between mouth of Rio Sapoa aud Gulf of Bolanos, 
 
 Vol. ii 217 
 
 OCTAVO PLATES. 
 
 Frontispiece. Views of the probable Terminii of the proposed 
 Interoceanic Canal, viz. ; View of San Juan de Nicaragua, 
 from the Habor ; View of the entrance to the Gulf of Fon- 
 seca, from the Island of Tigre, 
 
 Castillo Viejo on River San Juan, Vol. i., 
 
 View of the town of San Carlos at the head of the River San 
 Juan, Vol. i., 
 
 Ancient Fort of Granada, and the Volcano of Momobacho, 
 VoL i., 
 
 107 
 122 
 136 
 
nrr 
 
 XIV 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 5. Lake of Managua, and Volcano of Momotombo, Vol. i 
 
 6. Indian House, Pueblo ISTuevo, Vol. i., . 
 
 7. Great Cathedral of Leon, Vol. i., . 
 
 8. View from the Cathedral of Leon, embracing the Church of 
 
 Mercedes, and Volcano of El Viejo, Vol. i., 
 
 9. Inner Court of" Our House," Leon, Vol. i., . 
 
 10. Ruins of First Christian Church in Nicaragua, Vol. i., . 
 
 11. Ancient Idol of Subtiaba, Vol. i., 
 
 12. Town of Chichigalpa. Vol. i., 
 
 13. Profile of the Volcanic Chain of the Marabios, with eleva- 
 tions of the principal volcanoes of Central America, Vol. i., 
 
 14. Painted Rocks of Managua ; two fiigures, Vol. ii., 
 
 15. Painted Rocks of Managua; six fiigures, Vol. ii., . 
 
 16. Frontispiece of Volume II., Ancient Idol from Island of Pen 
 
 sacola, 
 
 17. Ancient Idol from Pensacola, Vol. ii., .... 
 
 18. Do. do. do. do. 
 
 19. Embarcadero, Island of Zapatero, Vol ii 
 
 20. Idols from Zapatero; two fiigures, 
 
 21. Do. do. 
 
 22. Do. do. 
 
 23. Do. do. 
 
 24. Idols, .... 
 
 25. Indian Antiquities, six figure 
 
 PAQE 
 
 234 
 
 242 
 2G3 
 
 2G5 
 277 
 325 
 321 
 351 
 
 419 
 409 
 
 409 
 
 36 
 37 
 50 
 
 338 
 
 WOOD ENGRAVINGS 
 
 1. Arms of Nicaragua, 
 
 2. " Our House," San Juan, Vol. 1., 
 
 3. Hut of Mosquito Indians 
 
 4. The Bongo " La Granadina," 
 
 5. View on the San Juan River, 
 
 6. Sentinel's Box, Castillo Viejo, 
 
 7. The Iguana, . , 
 
 8. The Plantain Tree, 
 
 9. Piedra de la Boca, 
 
 10. Nicaragua Cart, 
 
 11. Agricultural Instruments, 
 
 12. Plan of Central American House, 
 
 13. Ancient Metlatl, or Grinding Stone, 
 
 14. Ornaments of same, 
 
 Title. 
 
 65 
 
 69 
 
 90 
 
 103 
 
 110 
 
 118 
 
 143 
 
 203 
 
 206 
 
 224 
 
 261 
 
 272 
 
 273 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 XV 
 
 no. 
 
 15. Machete y Toledo, 
 
 16. Parochial Church of Subtiaba, 
 
 17. Primitive Spinning, two Figures, 
 
 18. Spinning, from a Mexican Manuscript, 
 
 19. Primitive Weaving, 
 
 20. Pottery and Carving of Indians, four F 
 
 21. Indian Girl, in full Costume, 
 
 22. Idol from Momotombita, No. 1, . 
 
 23. Do. do. No. 2, . 
 
 24. Front View of same, 
 
 25. Colossal Head from Momotombita, 
 2G. Idol from Subtiaba, No. 1, . 
 
 27. Do. do. No. 2, two views, 
 
 28. Do. do. No. 3, . 
 
 29. Do. do. 
 
 30. Street View in Leon, . 
 
 31. Nicaraguan Plow, 
 
 32. View of Chinandega, 
 
 33. Lake Nihapa, an extinct Crater, 
 
 34. Ancient Carving in wood, 
 
 35. Idol at Managua, 
 
 FAGB 
 
 276 
 282 
 285 
 28G 
 287 
 289 
 290 
 302 
 312 
 313 
 314 
 318 
 319 
 320 
 327 
 339 
 343 
 365 
 406 
 413 
 414 
 
 VOLUME II. 
 
 36. View in the " Quebrada de las Inscripciones," 
 
 37. Figures, . ...... 
 
 38. View of the Church of San Francisco, Granada, 
 
 39. The Bongo "La Carlota," .... 
 
 40. The Stone of Sacrifice, Zapatero, 
 
 41. Plan of Monuments at Zapatero, 
 
 42. 1 dol at Zapatero, No. 9, . . . 
 
 43. Do. do. No. 12, . 
 
 44. Do. do. No. 13, . 
 
 45. Inscribed Rocks at Zapatero, 
 
 46. Burial Vases from Ometepec, two Bigures, 
 
 47. Ornamented Burial Vases from Zapatero, 
 
 48. Copper Mask, do. do., 
 
 49. Frog in Verd Antique, 
 
 50. The Paroquet, 
 
 25 
 26 
 29 
 41 
 56 
 57 
 61 
 63 
 64 
 66 
 67 
 88 
 89 
 89 
 126 
 
m 
 
 
 XVI 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS, 
 
 no. Paob 
 
 51. The Toucan, 150 
 
 52. Crimson Crane, 158 
 
 53. Volcano of Coseguina, 163 
 
 54. Mountain Scenery in Honduras, 175 
 
 55. Las Tortilleras, 195 
 
 5G. Mouth of the Rio Lajas, and view of Volcano of Ometepec, 235 
 
 57. Idol found at Palenque, 337 
 
 58. Terra Cotta Idol, 338 
 
 59. Leg of Vase, 339 
 
 60. Human Head, Terra Cotta, 362 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 The character in which I visited Nicaragua, of an accred- 
 ited Eepresentative of the United States, made me the wit- 
 ness of many extraordinary demonstrations of respect and 
 affection for my country, and the recipient of numerous 
 marked attentions, private and popular. It enabled me to 
 see the country under a very favorable aspect, enlivened 
 everywhere by cheerful and enthusiastic assemblages, which 
 the presence of an Envoy of the Great Eepublic of the 
 North, had inspired with passionate hopes of their own 
 future glory and prosperity. And as it is my object to give 
 a true picture, not only of the country, but of the character, 
 condition, and relations of the people, I have not hesitated 
 to refer to many scenes and occurrences, in which, as a 
 public man, I received singular marks of favor. With the 
 judicious reader I am not afraid to trust myself in these 
 descriptions ; I am willing even to risk the imputation of 
 vanity, if I can thereby awaken a true sympathy in the 
 hearts of the American people, for their simple, but unfor- 
 tunate friends and allies in Central America ; or contribute, 
 however slightly, to impress the great truth upon this nation, 
 
mn^ 
 
 
 mr 
 
 SY1U 
 
 PREFACE, 
 
 that the United States is the natural head of the great 
 American family, and that it is a duty which it owes, alike 
 to God and man, to extend its advice, its encouragement, 
 and its support to the oppressed and struggling Republics of 
 Central America. 
 
 Yet, with all the latitude which I have ventured to give 
 myself in these respects, there are many things that the un- 
 official visitor might mention and remark upon without 
 impropriety, to which, for obvious reasons, I cannot refer. 
 Nor can I, in the following pages, make anything more than 
 a very limited use of my journal, which, whatever may be 
 its value hereafter in illustrating the transition period of the 
 country in question, is, from necessity, full of references to 
 political transactions and events, upon which it is not my 
 present purpose to speak ; and to persons whose names it 
 would not be delicate or proper to introduce into these pages. 
 
 I have divided my work into five parts or divisions, as 
 follows : 
 
 I. A Geographical and Topographical Account of Nica- 
 ragua, and of the other States of Central America, with 
 observations on their climate, agricultural and mineral pro- 
 ductions, and general resources. 
 
 II. A Narrative of my residence in Nicaragua, containing 
 an account of my explorations of its aboriginal monuments, 
 notices of the people, their habits, customs, and modes of 
 life, descriptions of scenery, etc. This narrative might have 
 been greatly amplified, but it is believed that it contains 
 enough to enable the reader to form a very accurate idea of 
 

 PREFACE. 
 
 XIX 
 
 the great natural beauty of the country, and of the character 
 and condition of its people. 
 
 III. An Account of the Geography and Topography of 
 Nicaragua, as connected with the proposed Interoceanic 
 Canal ; a Historical Sketch of the various negociations in 
 respect to that enterprize ; and also some speculations as to 
 the probable commercial and political results of its construc- 
 tion. In this part, I have written without fear or conceal- 
 ment, and with no design of subserving the interests of any 
 set of men. I regard the proposed work as one of vital 
 importance to our country, which should be kept free from 
 every taint of mere speculation, and be pursued in entire 
 good faith by those who may connect themselves with it. 
 Any delinquency, in this respect, is treachery to the interests 
 alike of Nicaragua and the United States, which it would be 
 the duty of every American to expose to public reprobation. 
 The facts contained in this part may be relied on, as bein«- 
 generally, and in all important respects, entirely accurate. 
 Should there be any errors, it must be remembered that my 
 means of investigation were imperfect, and that nothing 
 more than approximate accuracy can be reached, except by 
 actual and detailed surveys. 
 
 IV. Notes on the Aborigines of the country, with such 
 original and accumulated information respecting their geo- 
 graphical distribution and relations, languages, institutions 
 customs and religion, as shall serve to define their ethnical 
 position, in respect to the other semi-civilized, aboriginal 
 nations of this continent. 
 
■M 
 
 xx 
 
 PREFACE, 
 
 V. An Outline of the Political History of Central America 
 since its independence of Spain. Previous to 1839 Nica- 
 ragua constituted a part of the Eepublic of Central America. 
 In that year the Eepublic was dissolved. But the history of 
 Nicaragua, both before and since that event, has been so in- 
 volved with that of the country at large as to preclude its 
 separate consideration. I have, therefore, been compelled to 
 trace the outlines of the history of the entire country, in order 
 to show the causes which have reduced the State in question 
 to its present unfortunate condition. Some of the most con- 
 spicuous actors in the political drama which has been enacted 
 in Central America are still living; but, however much I 
 regret to arraign their policy, or denounce their principles, I 
 regret still more that this severity is demanded by every 
 consideration of truth and impartiality. I have, neverthe- 
 less, avoided, as far as possible, any allusion to individuals, 
 living or dead, and confined myself to a general recital of 
 events. It would be a most instructive task to fill up these 
 outlines, and trace, minutely, the operation of the causes 
 which led to the destruction of the Central America Eepub- 
 lic — a task which I may consider it proper to undertake, 
 unless it should be performed by abler hands. But if, in 
 this outline, I shall succeed in showing that the distractions 
 of the Spanish American Eepublics, are not so much to be 
 ascribed to the insensate passions of their people as to foreign 
 intervention, and the unfavorable conditions which surround 
 them, and that there is, in all of them, and particularly in 
 those of Central America, a large body of devoted, patriotic, 
 and liberal men, who are struggling against the popular 
 
PREFACE 
 
 TXT 
 
 ignorance and superstition, and the machinations and un- 
 scrupulous policy of monarchists and oligarchists, at home 
 and abroad, to vindicate the principles of self-government 
 and free institutions, and who deserve, and should receive, 
 the support and encouragement of the American people and 
 Government, — then I shall have the satisfaction of accom- 
 plishing the object which I have in view, in presenting this 
 outline, to the exclusion of other matters of perhaps more 
 general interest. 
 
 It was my original purpose to have embodied, in the form 
 of a Supplement, an account of that part of Nicaragua which 
 has acquired notoriety under the denomination of the " Mos- 
 quito Shore ;" as also of its savage inhabitants, the relations 
 of Great Britain with them ; the pretensions which she has 
 set up on their behalf, and the aggressions which she has 
 committed upon a weak and unoffending state, under pretext 
 of supporting them. I had also proposed to present a sketch 
 of the political relations of Nicaragua with the United States 
 for the past three years, with a statement of their present 
 condition. But both these subjects involve matters of a 
 personal and controversial character, and might lead to dis- 
 cussions which I do not care to have started in connection 
 with the present work. Should circumstances, or self- vindi- 
 cation require it, they will find their way before the public 
 in another, and probably more appropriate form. 
 
 The Maps, Plans, etc, contained in this work, are from 
 my own hand, while the engravings are chiefly from the 
 original drawings of Mr. Jas. McDonough, who accompanied 
 me to Central America in the capacity of artist. They are 
 
rrrr 
 
 XXll 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 faithful copies from nature, in which accuracy has been con- 
 sulted, rather than artistical effect. 
 
 In the chapters on the Aborigines of Nicaragua, I have 
 presented a brief vocabulary, obtained by Mr. Julius Frcebel, 
 in the district of Chontales, which I have named, suggestively, 
 Chondal. Since those chapters passed into the hands of the 
 printer, I have obtained information, showing conclusively, 
 that this is the language of the Wvolwa Indians, who have 
 their seats on the head waters of the Eio Escondido or 
 Blewfields Eiver. 
 

 NICARAGUA. 
 
 L— INTRODUCTION; GEOGRAPHY AND TOPOGRAPHY. 
 
 II.— PERSONAL NARRATIVE; ANTIQUITIES, ETC. 
 III.— PROPOSED INTEROCEANIC CANAL 
 IV.— ABORIGINAL INHABITANTS. 
 
 V.— OUTLINE OF POLITICAL HISTORY. 
 
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INTRODUCTION. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 CENTRAL AMERICA. — ITS GEOGRAPHY, TOPOGRAPHY, 
 CLIMATE, ETC. 
 
 The conquest of Asia or the acquisition of its commerce 
 has been, from the earliest periods of history to the present 
 hour, the aim of the several generations of men to whom, 
 from their valor or their successful ambition, succeeding 
 ages have accorded the title of heroic. Between the noma- 
 dic hordes on the steppes of Tafary, the dwellers in Cash- 
 merian valleys, the daring mountaineers of the Caucasus, the 
 swarthy myriads of Indostan, and the population of that 
 enigmatical Chinese empire (into which the ferocity of the 
 Tatars penetrated further than all the blandishments of civil- 
 ization), mi the one hand, and the more western nations 
 who have laid claim to a higher social order, to more com- 
 prehensive faculties of combination, and were possessed of 
 greater greed of rule or aggrandisement, on the other, a 
 perpetual war has existed for more thousands of years, 
 perhaps, than popular, belief has allotted to the duration 
 of history. The might of Assyria exhausted itself in the 
 Tatar and Indian conquests of Nimroud and Semiramis. 
 The Achaian republics sought, in the subj ugation of the Per- 
 sian Empire, to assert their sway over the traditional nursery 
 
frr 
 
 INTRODUCTK >N — CENTRA ! , AM ERICA. 
 
 of mankind. Alexander, son of Amnion, led his armies to 
 the Indus and the very feet of the Himalahs; and not 
 until Rome directed the ambition of the world upon the west 
 of Europe and the shores y>l' Carthage and Egypt, did the 
 tide of conquest ebb from the gorgeous but hapless East. In 
 after times, when the dust of tradition rested on the ruins of 
 the Roman empire, when the fabric of social order and polity, 
 founded upon it, had begun to crack and crumble before the 
 enterprise of sehismatic republics and rival empires, the 
 dream of Alexander was revived. The republics of Venice 
 and Genoa struggled in rivalry for the carrying trade in Per- 
 sian and Indian shawls, and the gems and spiees which 
 brighten the earth and sweeten the air from the Caspian to 
 Cape Comorin. And asthe sway of empire passed from ter- 
 ritory to territory and from race to race oven- the surface of 
 Europe, to the mightiest amongst them fell ever, by the con- 
 quest of her rivals, that unfailing source of wealth and power, 
 ••the Eastern Trade." 
 
 In fact, the ability of using or abusing the resources of the 
 largest continent of the earth has been, in all modern history, 
 the test of supremacy amongst the nations boastful of civiliza- 
 tion. As Venice and Genoa wasted themselves in the strife of 
 faction, Holland and Spain sprang into rivalry on the shores 
 of India. Portugal also mixed in the contest, and fixed her 
 factories and her garrisons on the shores of the southern 
 Asiatic peninsula. The conquest and plunder of the Indian 
 rial ions seemed the one objed of European empires, when the 
 overshadowing power of the papacy had yielded somewhat 
 to Lowland burghers and ambitious France. With the great- 
 ness of the latter country, a new rival entered the arena, and 
 the rule of Mnxarin. and the overthrow of the feudal no- 
 blesse by Louis XIV., found for it an additional held for 
 conquest in Pondicherry and the islands of the Eastern Ar- 
 chipelago. But the designs of Louis le Grand were blasted 
 with his death. France fell into the imbecile hands of his 
 
" THE EA6TE11N" TRADE.'* 
 
 amorous successor, and the conquests of the French arms in 
 India passed to the more vigorous and not more scrupulous 
 hands of the Islanders, who had beaten down in succession 
 the manufacturing monopolies of Holland, had destroyed 
 the maritime ascendancy of Spain, and won in the New 
 World an undying lustre for their arms. 
 
 Then sprang into a great and vigorous existence the 
 maritime power of England. Gibraltar, the Cape of Good 
 Hope, ports of protection from storm and foe, and ports 
 of supply and outfit all the way to the great East, — fell 
 successively into her possession; and the Hag, which in the 
 (Jays of Ferdinand and Isabella was cooped up within the 
 limits of England, soon flew in triumph from the fortresses 
 of Calcutta and Madras. The rule of smaller or older rivals 
 vanished from the fated East. To a company of London 
 merchants, greedy of gold and profitable dominion, and never 
 encumbered by scruples of justice or dispositions of mercy, 
 were leased out for plunder and servitude the then almost 
 numberless and unconquered peoples of Hindustan. Gradu- 
 ally, but surely, from the factories on the coast spread ou1 
 the webs of ambition and avarice. Through intrigues ami 
 wars, kingdom after kingdom fell under the control of 
 England; and the work commenced by Give and Hastings. 
 and continued by Wellington, we see completed in our own 
 day, on the banks of the Sutlej, and at the feet of the might \ 
 llimalahs, by the vengeful victories of a Gough and a Na- 
 pier. But these conquests were not perfected by Eng- 
 land without rivalry. When Franc* 1 , having recovered, by 
 the necessary infliction of a revolution, from the state of un- 
 natural weakness and premature decay to which the vices 
 of monarchy had reduced her, assumed once more the atti- 
 tude of an empire, defiant, haughty, and strong, the great 
 embodiment of her militant republicanism, Napoleon, flung 
 himself upon the shores of Asia, determined, like Alexan- 
 der, to carry his standards in triumph from the deserts of 
 
www ^HH 
 
 ^ERs 
 
 ■V3HP 
 
 6 
 
 INTRODUCTION — CENTRAL AMERICA. 
 
 the Bedouin to the mouth of the Ganges. But on the fortress 
 of Acre his magnificent designs were wrecked ; and back on 
 Europe, discomfited, and broken into fragments, rolled the 
 remnants of that ambitious army which essaj'ed once again 
 to change the fortunes of the world by arms. With the fal 
 of the Imperial ►Soldier passed away the terror of invasioj 
 from the English empire of the East. But with his fall 
 arose another and even mightier j tower in the distant North, 
 which, by the same agency of force, when craft shall fail. 
 aims to assume the sway of all mankind, — whose grim flag 
 is now reflected in the waters of the Mediterranean, and is 
 poised with wavering fortunes on the summit of the Caucasus. 
 Between the two great powers of the Old "World, England 
 and Eussia, a contest now lies for the dominion of the East: 
 a contest whieh involves, if not the very existence of the 
 first, at least her predominance among nations. 
 
 But the destinies of men are not, nor have they ever been. 
 ruled wholly by arms. For three hundred years agencies 
 have been at work, seen in part only in fantasy by the 
 dreamer, unseen in their grand magnificence until our day. 
 whieh have so far tended to deprive the Old World and all 
 its empires of the sway of Asia, and bestow its commerce 
 and its wealth upon a younger world, a newer empire, and :, 
 more equitable policy. We should lose one great lesson o:' 
 history, if we failed to attribute the future greatness of the 
 United States, even more than its present position, to tha" 
 ambition of gain and that commercial enterprise which im- 
 pelled the Spaniards, the Hollanders, and the English, three 
 centuries ago, into a contest of war and adventurous seaman- 
 ship, the one to retain, the other to acquire possession of the 
 centres of the Oriental trade. Speed and ease of transport 
 amongst maritime nations, must ever be the conditions o:' 
 commercial supremacy ; and hence was undertaken the searcl 
 for that "Passage to the East" which had been the day- 
 dream of the enthusiast, and the ambition of rival empires — 
 
r.r^.T'.-'Z- ■,.■•■ IHH'M'M'lil'IH I I 
 
 " THE EASTERN TRADE." 
 
 that search which led to the discovery of a New World by 
 Columbus, and to the voyages of Cabot and Vespucius, of 
 Raleigh and Verrazzano, from the river of Hudson southward 
 to the Cape of Storms, and northward to the yet impenetra- 
 ble fields of Arctic ice. But though these adventurous cap- 
 tains failed in their cherished hope of discovering a passage 
 through the American Continent by water, to the descendants 
 of the upright and daring Republicans who sought in a new 
 world an escape from the injustice and perfidy of the old, an 
 overruling but unseen hand has accorded the success denied 
 to other and older nations. That hand has drawn a line of 
 eternal division between the men and the institutions, the 
 tyrannies and superstitions, which crushed mankind from the 
 fall of Rome to the middle of the sixteenth century, and all 
 succeeding history and time. The judgment seems to have 
 been recorded, that they who should dare to bring to this 
 continent the systems or ideas of the old, should themselves 
 share the doom of the savages which they supplanted, and 
 with them pass away for ever. So, though knights of Spain 
 built castles strong and high upon the shores of both great 
 oceans, though Spain transferred all her force and bigotry to 
 the mountains and plains of Central and South America^ 
 though colonial empires north and south were established, 
 though the doctrines of absolutism and systems of feudalism 
 struggled over the entire continent for predominance, all 
 have passed away like the dew before the sun ; and to the 
 wise and simple Republicans, made up of all nations, equally 
 opposed to superstition and to tyranny, has fallen tin 1 dominion 
 of the New World, will fall the control of the Old. 
 
 To us is given, in this modern time, the ability, if Ave 
 choose to exercise it, of acquiring the rule of the East, of 
 placing at defiance alike the menaces and power of England 
 and Russia, and of transferring into our unarmed hands that 
 passage for which Columbus strove in vain, those eastern 
 conquests for which Alexander was deified, that power in 
 
WBHP 
 
 
 fir 
 
 8 INTRODUCTION — CENTRAL AMERICA. 
 
 Asia which Avon an infamous immortality for Clive and 
 Hastings, that vast and incalculable trade upon which is 
 mainly bused the maritime power of England, hitherto the 
 mightiest empire among men. The fortune of war has 
 planted our eagles on the Pacific : across the entire continent 
 from ocean to ocean, for twenty- five degrees of latitude, our 
 Republic is supreme. Our trim-built fairies of the deep dance 
 over either ocean, and in conjunction with those giant steamers 
 which push aside the waves along the shores of half the con- 
 tinent, sweep in the trade of Europe on one hand, and on 
 the other bring to the mouth of the Sacramento the treasures 
 of the Oriental world. To gird the world as with a hoop, to 
 pass a current of American Republicanism, vivifying dead 
 nations and emancipating mankind, over the continents of 
 the earth, it needs but that one small spot should be left free 
 from foreign threats and aggression, to exercise for itself its 
 inherent sovereign rights. The key of the continent, destined 
 to unlock the riches of two hemispheres, and which eager 
 nations even now are aiming to snatch, with felon hand, from 
 its rightful possessors, lies between the States of Mexico and 
 the disrupted Republic of Colombia. It is only by preserv- 
 ing its freedom and its territory inviolate, and enabling and 
 encouraging it to open an inter-oceanic highway, that the 
 Republican world can ever hope to reclaim from tyranny and 
 servitude the myriads of Asia, that Americans can ever hope 
 to reach that commercial and national pre-eminence to which 
 their clastic institutions and their individual superiority 
 amongst races of lesser vitality, invites and enables them to 
 aspire. 
 
 That small spot of earth — small as compared with the 
 gigantic continent, great in reference to its geographical posi- 
 tion and future destiny — is known as Central America. 
 
: ' •' '" ; ■■■■'■■' ■ 
 
 THE PASSAGE TO THE INDIES. 
 
 9 
 
 From the period of The Discovery, in the fifteenth century, 
 when Balboa, crossing its narrowest isthmus at Darien, rushed, 
 buckler and sword in hand, into the waters of the South 
 Sea, and claimed its almost limitless shores for the crown of 
 Castile and Leon, until the present hour, that country has 
 been regarded with a constantly increasing interest; an 
 interest which the requirements of commerce, and the recent 
 acquisitions and newly-developed resources of our own coun- 
 try on the Pacific, have not only augmented but turned to a 
 practical direction. Columbus, not yet comprehending the 
 importance of his own discoveries, coasted along its eastern 
 shores from the Gulf of Honduras to the Bight of Darien, in 
 anxious hope and vain endeavor to find a passage whereby 
 the treasures of the Indies might be poured into the lap of 
 Spain. The same rich jurize, augmented in value by the 
 lapse of time and the force of events, is still offered to the 
 enterprise of the world. Asia, with its vast populations and 
 increasing wants, furnishes a market worthy of the competi- 
 tion of nations. New and progressing States have sprung 
 into existence on the Pacific coast of the American continent, 
 which are destined, in the course of time, to attain a pitch of 
 greatness rivalling that of the proudest nations of Europe. 
 The Australian and Polynesian islands, by the double pro- 
 cess of colonization and civilization, have already risen into 
 importance, and now enter largely into the commercial and 
 political calculations of the maritime world. A new empire 
 is laying deep its foundations on the coast of New Holland, 
 and it requires no extraordinary prescience to discover that 
 it will soon take rank amongst independent nations. In 
 short, the great tides of civilization, for three centuries mov- 
 ing majestically eastward to India, and westward to the New 
 World, from the European centre, now meet in the waters 
 of the Pacific ; they have encircled the earth ; and the " short 
 and easy passage to the Indies" which Columbus sought. 
 from a leading desideratum, has became the great necessity 
 2 
 
Ml 
 
 ■ 
 
 ^^^P 
 
 10 
 
 INTRODUCTION — CENTRAL AMERICA. 
 
 of the age. This alone is wanting to secure for ever Ameri- 
 can preponderance in the Pacific, — that placid sea where 
 steam navigation is destined to achieve its greatest triumphs, 
 and American enterprise and American Republicanism their 
 most imposing results. 
 
 Geographical discovery early demonstrated the fact that 
 to this short and easy "passage to the East," the American 
 continent presents an unbroken barrier, extending from the 
 realms of northern ice to the stormy cape of the south, 
 lashed by the turbulent Antarctic Sea. From that period 
 the daring of man has contemplated the Titanic enterprise 
 of cutting through the continent, and opening an artificial 
 water communication between the two great oceans. Within 
 twenty years after The Discovery, the three routes which 
 by common consent have come to be regarded as the only 
 feasible ones for such communication, had been indicated. 1 
 
 1 Gromara, one of the earliest writers on America, in common with the 
 best informed men of Spain, judged that the junction of the Atlantic with 
 the Pacific was by no means an impracticable task. A translation of his 
 brief chapter, entitled " The Possibility of a Shorter Passage to the Maluc- 
 cas," is subjoined. "The voyage from Spain to the Maluccas, (.Malay 
 Islands.) by the Straits of Magellan, is so long and hazardous, that having 
 had frequent occasion to discuss the subject with men well acquainted 
 with the ladies, as well as with other persons conversant with history 
 and of an inquiring turn of mind, I have heard of another good though 
 extensive passage, which, if it were made, would be no less honorable 
 than profitable to the maker. The passage would have to be opened 
 across the main land from one sea to the Other, by whichever might ap- 
 pear most profitable of these four lines; either by the river Lagartos, 
 which, rising in Chagres. at the distance of four leagues from Panama, 
 over which space of territory they proceed in carts, (lows to the sea-coast 
 of X ombre de Dios ; or by the channel through which the Lake of Nica- 
 ragua empties itself into the sea. up and down which large vessels sail, 
 and the lake is distant only three or four leagues from the sea; by either 
 of these two rivers the passage is already traced and half made. There 
 is likewise another river which flows from Vera Cruz to Tecoantepec, 
 along which the inhabitants of New Spain tow and drag barks from one 
 
&% 
 
 THE PASSAGE TO THE INDIES. 
 
 11 
 
 All of these are comprehended in what is properly Central 
 America ; and that which seems to offer peculiar advantages 
 for this purpose, if indeed it is not the only one which has 
 the merit of practicability, passes through the very centre of 
 this interesting country. Indeed, in respect of geographical 
 position, it almost realizes the ancient idea of the centre of 
 the world. Not only does it connect the two grand di- 
 visions of the American continent, the northern and the 
 southern hemispheres, but its ports open to Europe and 
 
 sea to the other. The distance from Nombre de Dios to Panama is sev- 
 enteen leagues, and from the Gulf of Uraba to the Gulf of San Miguel 
 twenty-five, which arc the two most -difficult lines. There arc mountains, 
 it is true, but there are likewise hands; let but the resolve be formed to 
 make the passage, and it can be made. l[' inclination be not wanting, 
 there will be no want of means: the Indies, to which the passage is to be 
 made, will supply them. To a King of Spain, with the wealth of the In- 
 dies at his command, when the object to be attained is the spice trade, 
 that which is possible is, in fact, easy. It appeared an impossibility, and 
 really was one, to unite Brindez to Belona by a causeway over twenty 
 leagues of the sea: yel Pyrrhus and Marcus Varro wished and attempted 
 it, in order to go by land from Italy to Greece. Nicanor began to open a 
 canal of more than a hundred leagues extent by land, without reckoning 
 rivers, for the sake of transporting merchandise from the Caspian to the 
 Pontic or Black Sea ; bul having been put to death by Ptolemy Ceraunus, 
 his generous and princely design was abandoned. Nitocris, Sesostris, 
 Psammeticus, Darius, Ptolemy, and other kings, projected the junction of 
 the Red Sea with the Nile by means of a canal, in order that perfumes, 
 spices, and medicines might be conveyed straight from the ocean to the 
 Mediterranean; but being apprehensive lest the sea should inundate 
 Egypt by bursting the aqueducts, or an over supply of water, they were 
 deterred from the undertaking; and because the sea might be detrimental 
 to the river, without which Egypt would be nothing. If the passage of 
 which I have been speaking was accomplished, the navigation to the 
 Maluccas would be shortened by one-third of the distance, since ships 
 proceeding thither would always sail by the Canaries under the equator, 
 in a warm latitude, within the dominions of Spain, and without fear of 
 meeting with a foe ; nor would our Indies derive less advantage from it, 
 since merchandise would be conveyed to Peru and other provinces in the 
 
■HI 
 
 12 
 
 INTRODUCTION — CENTRAL AMEIMC \. 
 
 Africa on the east, and to Polynesia, Asia, and Australia on 
 the west. Here, too, the continent shrinks to its narrowest 
 limits, and its great mountain barriers subside into low and 
 broken ranges. The adventurous traveller, standing beneath 
 the sky of an eternal summer, with the exuberance of tropical 
 verdure around him, may look down upon the restless 
 Atlantic, the great highway of the commerce of the Old 
 World, on the one hand, and upon the broad Pacific, rolling 
 its unbroken waves over half the globe, on the other. These 
 conditions unerringly point out this country as the theatre 
 of great events, and will give it a prominence in the future 
 
 same ships which brought it from Spain, and much expense and trouble 
 be thus saved." — La Istoria de las Indicts, fol lviii. 
 
 Herrara, Historiographer to the King of Spain, writing of the events of 
 1527, refers to these routes and the project of inter-oceanic communication, 
 in these words : 
 
 "The lake of Nicaragua is remarkable for its extent, the towns and 
 islandsin it, for ebbing and flowing, and for that, being three or four leagues 
 from the South Sea. it empties itself into the North Sea. Those who 
 desired to please the Emperor, seeing him intent on finding a way to the 
 Spice Islands, said that since there was no strait in those parts — that is. 
 between the Gulf of Uraba and the drain of Nicaragua — a passage might 
 be made by any of four ways which they proposed; the first along the 
 drain of said lake, (the San Juan,) on which large boat- go up and down, 
 though there are some dangerous Calls, and then making a canal along 
 these lour leagues from the lake to the South Sea; and second, along the 
 river de Lagartos, (Chagres,) which rises five or six leagues from Panama, 
 where the way being all plain, as we have said before, a canal might 
 also be cut for the sea and river to meet : the third, by way of Vera Cruz 
 to Tecoantepec, on which, in New Spain, they convey boats from one sea 
 to the other; fourth, the path from Nombre de Dios to Panama, where, 
 they asserted, though there were mountains, it was no difficult matter to 
 make a way. They added, that from the Gulf of Uraba to San Miguel, 
 there were only twenty-five leagues ; and though it would be a difficult 
 matter, yet nothing was too much for the King of Spain's power, and 
 this would open a much shorter way to the Spice Islands through his 
 own dominions, without any opposition." — History of America, vol. iv. 
 p. 14. 
 
>%;'<<C/< 
 
 H - 
 
 ^^■H ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^■■■■■■^^^■■^^H 
 
 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^H 
 
 GEOGRAPHY AM) TOPOGRAPHY. 
 
 13 
 
 history of the world, second to no other equal extent of the 
 earth's surface. 
 
 Glancing at the map, we find, at the isthmus of Tehuante- 
 pe< ■ on the north, the Gulf of Mexico approaching to within 
 two hundred miles of the Western Ocean; the waters of the 
 riv<er Coazaealeo, which flows into the former, interlocking 
 with those of the Chicapa, flowing into the latter. This line 
 aff< a*ds certain facilities of transit which cannot fail to be 
 used by the inhabitants of the great Mississippi Valley, to 
 whom it offers the easiest and speediest mode of communica- 
 tion! with the western coast of the continent. They will 
 prove themselves strangely negligent of their present, and 
 blinid to their prospective interests, if they do not secure 
 permanently the control of that isthmus. Below this point 
 the continent widens, embracing the high table lands of 
 Guatemala upon the west, and the broad plains of Tobasco, 
 Chiapas, and Yucatan upon the east. The Gulf of Hondu- 
 ras, however, closes around this section upon the south-east, 
 and again narrows the continent to less than two hundred 
 miles. The country intervening between it and the Pacific 
 nevertheless loses its elevated character, and constitutes two 
 greait valleys, through which the Motagua finds its way to 
 the Atlantic by the Gulf of Honduras, and the Lempa flows 
 to the Western Ocean. Still lower down, and passing the 
 great transverse basin of Nicaragua, is the well-known nar- 
 row isthmus of Panama or Darien, over which the tide 
 of European migration, within a period of three hundred 
 years, has twice poured its floods, — once upon Peru, and once 
 upon the glittering shores of California. 
 
 N«or are the topographical features of Central America less 
 remairkable than its geographical. In its physical aspect 
 and configuration, it has very justly been observed, it is an 
 epitome of all other countries and climates of the globe. 
 High mountain ranges, isolated volcanic peaks, elevated 
 table -lands, deep valleys, broad and fertile plains, and exten- 
 
14 INTRODUCTION — CENTRAL AMERICA. 
 
 sive alluvions, arc here found grouped together, relieved by 
 large and beautiful lakes, and majestic rivers, the whole 
 teeming with animal and vegetable life, and possessing every 
 variety of climate, from torrid heats to the cool and bracing 
 temperature of an eternal spring. The great chain of the 
 Cordilleras here, as in South America, runs close along the 
 Pacific coast, but in places is interrupted, and assumes the 
 form of detached ranges and isolated elevations, of groups or 
 knots of hills, between which the streams from the interior 
 wind their way to either ocean. As a consequence, the prin- 
 cipal alluvions border on the Gulf of Mexico and the Carib- 
 bean Sea. Here rains fall in greater or less quantities for 
 the entire year; vegetation is rank, and the climate is damp 
 and proportion ably insalubrious. The trade winds blow 
 from the north-east; and the moisture with which they are 
 saturated, condensed on the elevated parts of the continent, 
 flows down towards the Atlantic. The Pacific slope is there- 
 fore comparatively dry and healthful, as are also the elevated 
 table-lands of the interior. 1 
 
 Topographically, Central America presents three marked 
 centres of elevation, which have, to a certain extent, fixed its 
 political divisions. The first is the great plain in which is 
 situated the city of Guatemala, and which is nearly six thou- 
 sand feet above the sea. Here the large rivers, Usumasinta 
 and Tobasco, flowing northward through Chiapa and Tobas- 
 co, into the Gulf of Mexico, take their rise, — their sources 
 interlocking with those of the Motagua or Gualan, running 
 eastward into the Gulf of Honduras, and with those of the 
 small streams which send their waters westward into the 
 
 1 " Experience," says Mr. Baily, ' : shows that the places which are most 
 prejudicial to health in Central America lie on the northern coast and 
 the Mosquito shore, where endemic and intermittent fevers are notunhe- 
 quent. The Pacific coast is exposed to a temperature equally high, but 
 is much more salubrious, and seldom visited by epidemic or contagi his 
 diseases." 
 

 TOPOGRAPHY — CLIMATE. 
 
 15 
 
 Pacific. Another high plain occupies the centre of Hondu- 
 ras, and extends into the northern part of Nicaragua, from 
 which radiate a hundred streams, north and east into the 
 Caribbean Sea, and south and west into the great lakes of 
 Nicaragua and the Southern Ocean. Among these the most 
 remarkable are the Eio Escondido (called by the English 
 "Blewfields river") the river Vanks, Coco, or Segovia, the 
 Roman, Poyais, and Guyapi, upon the eastern slope; the 
 Lempa, La Paz, Nacaome, and Choluteca, upon the western. 
 Intervening between this and the third great centre of eleva- 
 tion in Costa Kica, is the basin of the Nicaraguan lakes, with 
 its verdant slopes and gently undulating plains. The nu- 
 cleus of the Costa Kican elevation is the volcano of Cartago, 
 which towers in its midst. Here the Cordilleras resume their 
 general character of a great unbroken mountain barrier, 
 but soon subside again into low ridges on the isthmus of 
 Panama. 
 
 These peculiarities of configuration will explain the end- 
 less variety of climate to which we have alluded, and which 
 is nowhere more remarkable than in Central America. Sit- 
 uated between 8° and 17° north latitude, were it not for 
 these features, the general temperature would be somewhat 
 hotter than that of the "West Indies. As it is, the climate of 
 the const is nearly the same as that of the islands alluded to, 
 and exceedingly uniform; modified somewhat by the shape 
 and position of the shore, and by the proximity of the moun- 
 tains, as well as by the prevailing winds. The heat on the 
 Pacific coast is not, however, so oppressive as on the Atlan- 
 tic ; less perhaps because of any considerable difference of 
 tern] erature, than on account of the greater dryness and 
 purity of the atmosphere. 1 
 
 : D mlap, a very good authority when his personal feelings have no 
 opportunity of being exhibited, has the following correct observations 
 upon the respective climates of the Atlantic and Pacific coasts. " On the 
 south-west (Pacific) coast the rains commence regularly in the beginning 
 

 16 
 
 INTRODUCTION- 
 
 CENTRAL AMERICA. 
 
 In the northern part of the state of Guatemala, and what 
 is called Los Altos, the Highlands, the average temperature 
 is lower than in any other part of the country. Snow some- 
 times falls in the vicinity of Quczaltenango, the capital of this 
 department, but disappears immediately, as the thermometer 
 rarely, if ever, falls to the freezing point. In the vicinity of 
 Guatemala, the range of the thermometer is from 55° to 80°, 
 averaging about 72° of Fahrenheit. Vera Paz, lying between 
 Guatemala and Yucatan, is nearly ten degrees warmer, and 
 the coast from Belize, around the Gulf of Honduras, embrac- 
 ing the ports of Santo Tomas and Izabal, to Omoa and 
 Truxillo, is still hotter, and very unhealthy. The State of 
 San Salvador lies wholly on the Pacific. It is smaller than 
 any of the other states, and better populated. It is less ele- 
 vated than either Guatemala or Honduras, and its general 
 temperature is probably higher. The heat, however, is 
 
 of May; am!, with the exception of a short intermission (in some seasons 
 only) of about twenty days, towards the end of July and the beginning of 
 August, continue till the month of October, and in some parts and sea- 
 sons till the middle of November. During the rest of the year rain is almost 
 unknown, a slight shower, nol sufficient to lay the dust, occurring very rare- 
 ly. On the north-east (Atlantic) coast the rains, on the contrary, continue 
 nearly all the year, with a short and uncertain intermission of three or 
 lour months; the dryesl period being from June to October, and the wet- 
 test from October to May. As may be supposed, the consequence of this 
 is, that while the interior and south-west coast possesses an almost equal 
 temperature during the whole year, the north-east coast is extremely sultry 
 during the summer months; and is also found to be very unhealthy on ac- 
 cuntof the superabundant moisture ; while the restofthe republic, with 
 some local exceptions, is perhaps more healthy than any other country with- 
 in the same degrees of latitude." — Travels in Centred America, ( L846), p. 257. 
 Mr. Baily observes that " the temperature of Central America may be 
 said to be relatively mild, and, taken altogether, undoubtedly salubrious. 
 The degree of absolute heat from the coasts to the interior differs consid- 
 erably ; but only in a few places on the former is it found unfavorable to 
 general health." Mr. Baily estimates the average heat of the interior at 
 68° Fah., and of the coast at 82° to 84°. 
 

 TOPOGKAPHY — CLIMATE. 
 
 17 
 
 never oppressive, except at a few points on or near the coast, 
 as for instance, Sonsonate, La Union, and San Miguel. The 
 latter place is very closely shut in by mountains, and is not 
 reached by the prevailing winds, to which circumstance 
 its high temperature and proverbial unhealthiness is mainly 
 to be ascribed. Honduras, as its name implies, (plural of 
 Hondura, "depth,") has a very diversified surface. The 
 coasts upon both oceans are low ; but, as we have already 
 said, the country in the interior is elevated, and there the 
 climate is really delightful ; the average temperature at 
 Tegucigalpa and Comayagua, the principal towns, being 
 about 75°. The department of Segovia, in Nicaragua, bor- 
 ders on Honduras, and has a like surface and temperature. 
 The principal part of Nicaragua, however, is different in all 
 respects, and has a topography and climate peculiarly its 
 own. These will form the subject of a separate chapter. 
 It will be sufficient to observe here, that the lakes of Nica- 
 ragua form a great inland basin, with broad and undulating 
 slopes, relieved only by steep volcanic cones, and a few 
 ranges of hills along the shores of the Pacific; and that, 
 although the general surface is low, as compared with the 
 other states of Central America, its climate is so favorably 
 modified by a variety of causes as to be rendered not only 
 agreeable, but quite as salubrious as that of any equal extent 
 of country under the tropics. The population of Costa Eica 
 is concentrated on the western or Pacific slope of the great 
 volcano of Cartago ; and, as a consequence, any degree of 
 temperature may be obtained, according to the elevation — ■ 
 from intense heat at the port of Punta Arenas to the con- 
 stant spring of San Jose, or to the autumnal temperature of 
 the belt above the ancient, earthquake-shattered capitol of 
 Cartago. The eastern slopes of Costa Rica may be said to be 
 uninhabited, and the coast from Chiriqui lagoon northward 
 is low and unhealthy. Indeed, the entire Atlantic coast of 
 Central America, embracing the whole of what is called the 
 

 irr 
 
 18 
 
 INTRODUCTION CENTRAL AMERICA. 
 
 Mosquito shore, is subject to the same remark. But jet 
 there are points which are singularly exempt from disease, 
 and where the inhabitants, for a radius of a few miles, enjoy 
 general good health, while beyond these limits the evidences 
 of insalubrity are unmistakable. This coast has, however, 
 scarcely any inhabitants except a few squalid Indians of the 
 Carib stock, of which the Moscos or Mosquitos, in conse- 
 quence of certain equivocal relations with Great Britain, are 
 the best known. This " nation," as it is called, is a mongrel 
 breed, crossed between negroes and Indians, in every degree 
 of mixture. They are few in number, and have only a fac- 
 titious importance ; for the mass of the Indians, inhabiting 
 what is geographically known as the " Mosquito Shore/ 1 
 neither recognise them as their masters, nor maintain any 
 relations with them. 
 
 I have said that the ports of Central America open to Eu- 
 rope and Africa on the one hand, and to Asia and Polynesia 
 and Australia upon the other. No country could be more 
 favorably situated for commerce. Guatemala has upon the 
 east the ports of Belize, (now occupied by the English, in 
 violation of treaty stipulations,) Santo Tomas, and Izabal ; 
 Honduras, Cabo Cabal lo, Omoa, Coxenhole (island of Roatan,) 
 and Truxillo; Nicaragua, Cape Gracias a Bios, Blew Melds, 
 and San Juan; Costa Rica, Matina, and Boca del Toro. 
 Upon the Pacific are Grolfo Dulce, Punta Arenas, and Caldera, 
 in Costa Rica; the bays of Culebra, Salinas, San Juan del 
 Sur, Tamarinda, and Realejo, in Nicaragua; Amapala and 
 San Lorenzo, in Honduras; La Union, Jiquilisco, Acajutla, 
 Sonsonate, (or La Libertad,) in San Salvador; andlstapa and 
 Ocus, in Guatemala. Sonsonate, Libertad, and [stapa are 
 roadsteads rather than harbors. Acajutla may perhaps be 
 called a roadstead, but the anchorage is partially protected 
 by a long ledge of rocks called "Punta de los Remedios." 
 The landing is therefore comparatively easy, and at low 
 water entirely so. It should also be mentioned that the 
 

 PORTS — LAKES — AREA. 
 
 19 
 
 Pacific Ocean is much less turbulent than the Atlantic, so 
 that vessels may load and discharge their cargoes with little 
 difficulty, at all these points, for the greater part of the year. 
 
 Besides the rivers of Central America, the principal of 
 which have already been enumerated, there are a number of 
 large and beautiful lakes, viz.: Nicaragua and Managua, in 
 Nicaragua; Guija and Ylopango, in San Salvador; Golfo 
 Dulce, Peten, Atitlan, and Amatitan, in Guatemala; and Yo- 
 jos, in Honduras. Of these, the lakes of Managua and Nica- 
 ragua alone are navigable. 
 
 The area of Central America may be estimated, in round 
 numbers, at 150,000 square miles, — very nearly equal to that 
 of the New England and Middle States combined, and con- 
 siderably greater than that of Peru or Chili, which are esti- 
 mated to contain, the first, 109,000, and the second, 127,000 
 square miles. 
 
HfM 
 
■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■ 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 NICARAGUA | ITS EXTENT, TOPOGRAPHY, CLIMATE, POPULA- 
 TION, PRODUCTIONS, MINERALS, PORTS, ETC., ETC. 
 
 The ancient Kingdom or Captain-Generalcy of Guatemala 
 embraced the principal provinces or intendencies of Guate- 
 mala, Honduras, San Salvador, Nicaragua, and Costa Rica. 1 
 These threw off their allegiance to Spain in 1821, and follow- 
 ing the great example of the British colonies in North 
 America, assumed the rank of sovereign States. They sub- 
 sequently united in a confederacy, called the "Republic of 
 Central America," which, in consequence of internal dissen- 
 sions, and the strife of factions, was practically dissolved in 
 1839, since which time the several States have asserted and 
 exercised their original sovereign powers, as distinct Repub- 
 lics. Three of the number, namely, Nicaragua, Honduras, 
 and -San Salvador, have recently taken steps towards a new 
 
 1 I speak now of the principal provinces. For the convenience of gov- 
 ernment and administration, other minor divisions were made, which 
 were called provinces, and which had different limits at different periods. 
 The large province, now State of Chiapas, and included in the Mexican 
 Republic, belonged to the ancient Kingdom of Guatemala. Subsequently 
 to the Independence, it was appropriated by Mexico, which country, 
 under the brief rule of Iturbide, attempted to annex to itself the whole 
 of Central America. A portion of what is now the district of Veragua, 
 attached to New Granada, (it is also claimed,) belonged to the old king- 
 dom of Guatemala. The country from north-west to south-east was there- 
 fore not much less than four hundred leagues, or twelve hundred miles in 
 length. 
 

 22 
 
 INTRODUCTION — NICARAGUA. 
 
 confederation, have agreed upon certain bases of union, and 
 have called a constituent assembly. 1 
 
 The Republic of Nicaragua, therefore, comprises the terri- 
 tory which pertained to it as a province. Its boundaries are 
 the Caribbean Sea upon the east, extending from the lower 
 or Colorado mouth of the San Juan River, to Cape Gracias 
 a Dios ; and upon the west, the Pacific Ocean from the Gulf 
 of Nicoya to that of Fonseca, embracing about one-third of 
 the latter. The northern boundary, separating it from Hon- 
 duras, follows the river Vanks, or Segovia, from its mouth 
 at Cape Gracias a Dios, for about two-thirds of its length, 
 thence runs in a right line, northwest by north, to the head 
 of the River Roman, and thence, also in a right line, to the 
 point already indicated on the Gulf of Fonseca. The south- 
 ern boundary, separating it from Costa Rica, runs in a right 
 line from the mouth of the River Salto de Nicoya, or Alva- 
 rado, emptying into the head of the Gulf of Nicoya, to the 
 lower mouth of the San Juan river. The State is therefore 
 embraced entirely between 83° 20' and 87° 30', (from Green- 
 wich, 6° 20', and 10° 30' from Washington,) west longi- 
 tude, and between 9° 45' and 15° of north latitude ; and 
 has an area of about 59,000 square miles, or about an equal 
 extent of territory with the New England States, exclusive 
 of Connecticut and Rhode Island. 
 
 A claim to upwards of half of this territory has been set 
 up by Great Britain, on behalf of the supposititious " King of 
 the Mosquitos." The boundaries of this claim have been 
 extended from time to time, but, as last defined, embrace 
 the whole coast of Central America, from Cape Honduras to 
 the northern limits of New Granada, as will appear in a 
 subsequent chapter. A claim to another large section of 
 Nicaragua, including the entire department of Guanacaste, or 
 
 1 The history of these events is reserved for the Chapters on the Politi- 
 cal State of Central America, near the close of this work. 
 
f 1 - ^c^/my^ft&f&Ki 
 
 TOPOGRAPHY — MOUNTAINS. 
 
 23 
 
 Nicoya, (lying between Lake Nicaragua and the Gulf of 
 Nicoya,) as also to the entire country south of the lake just 
 named and the Eiver San Juan, has recently been asserted 
 by Costa Rica. But neither the pretensions of Great Britain 
 or Costa Rica are well founded, nor are they admitted by 
 Nicaragua, or recognized by civilized nations. These are 
 points which will be elucidated elsewhere. 
 
 As we have already intimated, the geographical and topo- 
 graphical features of Nicaragua are equally remarkable and 
 interesting. If an accurate map of Central America existed, 
 it would exhibit in this State a separation of the great chain 
 of the Cordilleras into two divergent ranges, of less general 
 height than the great ridge itself, and having occasional par- 
 tial interruptions. This divergence takes place in the north- 
 ern department of Segovia, one branch extending due south- 
 east towards the Atlantic. Its outposts come down to the 
 very shore, and form prominent landmarks upon that coast. 
 The range itself intersects the San Juan River about fifty 
 miles above its mouth. At its northern base, and nearly 
 parallel to it, flows a large and long stream, the Rio Escon- 
 dido, sometimes indicated in the maps as " Blewfields River." 
 All the streams upon the southern side of the range fall into 
 Lakes Managua and Nicaragua, or into the San Juan River. 
 This range resumes its course upon the southern shore of the 
 San Juan, but now bears nearly due south, connecting with 
 the Pacific range in the elevated regions of Costa Rica. 
 
 The Pacific range follows the general direction of the coast, 
 sometimes rising into lofty volcanic cones, but "generally sus- 
 taining the character of a high ridge, and in places subsiding 
 into low hills and plains. It preserves a nearly uniform 
 distance from the sea of from ten to twenty miles ; conse- 
 quently there are no considerable streams falling into the 
 Pacific for the distance which it continues. It unites, as I 
 have already said, with the eastern range in Costa Rica. Its 
 course seems to have been the principal line of volcanic action, 
 
HWBW 
 
 nrr 
 
 24 
 
 INTRODUCTION — NICARAGC \. 
 
 and extinct craters and beds of lava are to be met with at 
 short intervals throughout its length. The lofty cones of the 
 Viejo, Santa Clara, Axusco, Momotombo, Momobacho, 
 Oinetc]>ec, Madeira, Orosi, and Abogado, not to mention 
 many others which may be regarded as belonging to this 
 range, are prominent landmarks, and form remarkable fea- 
 tures in the landscape. 1 
 
 The two ranges of the Cordilleras here referred to form, 
 with their slopes, a great interior basin, not far from three 
 hundred miles long by one hundred and fifty wide, consist- 
 ing in great part of broad, beautiful, and fertile plains. The 
 waters of this region fall into the lakes already named, 
 of which the San Juan Kiver is the only outlet. Many of 
 the streams flowing into these lakes, especially from the 
 north, are of considerable size, and furnish a supply of water 
 which could not be sensibly affected by drains for artificial 
 purposes. 
 
 The lake Managua approaches, at its nearest point, to 
 within four or five leagues of the Pacific, from which it is 
 separated on the south by the range of hills already described ; 
 but between its northern extremity and the sea there are 
 only the broad and magnificent plains of Leon and El Conejo, 
 in the midst of which, with all the regularity of the pyramids, 
 rise the volcanoes of Axusco, Telica, and El Viejo. 
 
 Lake Managua is a beautiful sheet of water, of much larger 
 size than has hitherto been represented. It is certainly not 
 far from fifty or sixty miles in greatest length by thirty-five 
 
 1 " In proceeding from Realejo southward and westward, there is, at a 
 few leagues distant from the ocean, a range of hills, nowhere of great 
 height until they approach the confines of Costa Rica, where they are 
 elevated into mountains of from .".nun to 11,000 feet in height. Between 
 this ridge and the lake the land may be termed moderately level, and is 
 not much broken; the contrary is the case along the borders of Honduras, 
 where the country is intersected by several lofty ridges, running in various 
 directions." — Baihjs Central America, p. 114. 
 

 
 LAKE MANAGUA. 
 
 25 
 
 in width, and ranges from two to ten and fifteen, and even 
 forty fathoms in depth. The scenery which borders it is nil- 
 surpassed in beauty and grandeur. Upon the northern and 
 eastern shore, lifting their blue rugged peaks one above the 
 other, are the mountains of Matagalpa, merging into those of 
 Segovia, rich in metallic veins. Upon the south and west 
 are broad and fertile slopes and level plains, covered with 
 luxuriant verdure, and of almost unlimited productiveness. 
 The volcano of Momotombo, like a giant warder, stands out 
 boldly into the lake, its bare and blackened summit, which 
 no man has ever reached, covered with a light wreath of 
 smoke, attesting the continued existence of those internal 
 fires which have seamed its steep sides with burning floods, 
 and which still send forth hot and sulphurous springs at its 
 base. Within the lake itself rises the regular cone of Momo- 
 tombita, so regular that it seems a work of art, covered with 
 a dense forest, under the shadows and within the deep re- 
 cesses of which, frayed by the storms of ages, stand the rude 
 and frowning statues of the gods of aboriginal superstition, 
 raised there long before European feet trod the soil of Amer- 
 ica, and to which the mind of the christianized Indian still 
 reverts with a mysterious reverence. 
 
 The town or city of Santiago de Managua, which gives its 
 name to the lake, and which is the place of the meeting of 
 the Legislative Chambers of the State, is situated upon the 
 south-western shore. Some considerable streams flow into 
 the lake from the direction of Segovia, and the level of water 
 undergoes very slight changes with the different seasons. 
 The town of Leon was first built on the shore of the north- 
 western extremity of Lake Managua, at a place now called 
 Moabita, but it was subsequently abandoned for the present 
 site, in the midst of the great plain of Leon. From this cir- 
 cumstance the lake in question is sometimes called Lake 
 Leon. 
 
 Lake Nicaragua is nevertheless the great feature of the 
 
MB! 
 
 26 
 
 INTRODUCTION — NICARAGUA. 
 
 country, and is unquestionably, in all respects, one of the 
 finest bodies of water on the continent, needing only to be 
 made easy of access to become as famous a resort of the lov- 
 ers of the grand and beautiful in nature, as any now known 
 in the Old or New World. In common with Lake Managua, 
 its size has been rather under than over-estimated. Mr. 
 Baily calculated its greatest length at one hundred miles, 
 and its greatest width at forty or forty -five miles. It is pro- 
 bably nearer one hundred and twenty miles in length, by 
 fifty or sixty in breadth. Upon its southern shore, near the 
 head of the lake, is the ancient city of Granada, the most 
 important commercial point in the republic. A few miles 
 below Granada, and projecting boldly into the lake, is the 
 extinct volcano of Momobacho, not far from five thousand 
 feet in height. At its base, in the lake, is a group of innu- 
 merable small islands of volcanic origin, rising in the form 
 of cones from twenty to one hundred feet, and covered with 
 verdure. Some of them, upon which the soil has accumu- 
 lated, are inhabited by Indians, and their thatched cottages, 
 shadowed over by tall palms, and with a dense background 
 of broad-leaved plantains, form the most picturesque objects 
 which can be conceived. Upon the same shore with Granada, 
 but forty miles distant, is the city of Nicaragua, or Kivas, the 
 capital of a very large, fertile, and comparatively well-culti- 
 vated district. The remaining section of the southern shore 
 of the lake has scarcely any inhabitants, except a few wild 
 Indians, called "Bravos," who alternate between the moun- 
 tainous district towards Costa Rica and the shore. The 
 northern shore, called Chontales, is undulating, and well 
 adapted to grazing. Here arc a great number of cattle es- 
 tates, some embracing many thousand head of cattle and 
 mules. There are a number of considerable islands in the 
 lake, the largest of which is Madeira or Ometepec, which is 
 almost wholly inhabited by Indians. It abounds in numer- 
 ous traces of aboriginal occupation and art, and is distin- 
 

 S*&« 
 
 LAKE NICARAGUA. 
 
 27 
 
 guished by two immense cones, visible from every point of 
 the lake and from the Pacific. These are called respectively 
 Ometepec and Madeira. The cone of Ometepec is the most 
 regular in outline of any which I have seen, and is, I think, 
 the highest in the country. Its summit is generally en- 
 veloped in clouds. The water of the lake, in most places, 
 shoals gradually, but at some points vessels of the largest 
 class may approach close to the shore. The depth, except 
 in the immediate vicinity of its outlet, is for all purposes of 
 navigation ample, ranging from eight to twenty, and even 
 forty fathoms. The prevailing winds are from the north-east 
 (the direction of the summer trades on the coast,) and when 
 the breeze is considerable, the waves of the lake roll with all 
 the regularity and with much of the majesty of those of the 
 sea. At such times, the surf upon the shore at Granada is 
 nearly as high as it is, daring a brisk wind, upon the beach 
 at Newport or Cape May. 
 
 The sole outlet to this great interior basin, and of the lakes 
 just described, is the River San Juan, debouching into the 
 Atlantic at the now well-known port of the same name. 
 This river is certainly a magnificent stream, but its capabili- 
 ties have been greatly exaggerated. It, (lows from the south- 
 eastern extremity of Lake Nicaragua, nearly due east, to the 
 Atlantic. Its length has been variously estimated, from sev- 
 enty to one hundred and four miles. The first estimate is 
 obviously too little. Mr. Baily calculated it at ninety miles, 
 and he is probably not far from correct. 
 
 The body of water which flows through this stream is at 
 all times considerable, but it varies greatly in amount at dif- 
 ferent seasons of the year. It is greatest during what is 
 termed the " rainy season" in the interior, that is to say, from 
 May to October, at which period the volume of water is 
 nearly doubled. To this circumstance in some degree may 
 be ascribed the wide difference, in the statements of the 
 depths and capacity of the river, made by different individuals. 
 
^^^9 B^RI 
 
 n 
 
 28 
 
 INTRODUCTION — NICARAGUA. 
 
 Several considerable streams enter the San Juan, the prin- 
 cipal of which are the San Carlos and the Serapiqui, both 
 rising towards the south in the highlands of Costa Rica. 
 The streams flowing in from the north are comparatively 
 small, indicating that the mountains are not far distant in 
 this direction, and that upon this side the valley is compara- 
 tively narrow. The Serapiqui is ascended by boats to a 
 point where the Costa Eica road (trail) commences. This is 
 the route by which Costa Rica keeps up communication with 
 the San Juan; and to the point here named she is now en- 
 deavoring to construct a road for mules, stinting from San 
 Jose, her capital. The banks of the San Juan, from the fort 
 of San Carlos, at the outlet of the lake, to the Rapides del 
 Toro, a distance of twenty miles, are generally low, and 
 covered with palms, canes, and a species of high, coarse grass 
 called gamalote. The river here sometimes overflows its 
 shores, which for a considerable distance back seem to be flat 
 and swampy. From the port of San Juan upwards to the 
 point of the divergence of the Colorado, a distance of eighteen 
 miles, the banks of the river present a corresponding appear- 
 ance. In fact, the entire country from this point to the sea 
 is flat, as is shown by the divergence of the Colorado, the 
 Juanillo, and Tauro, and by the oeeurrence of numerous 
 lagunas. It is nevertheless fertile, and capable of producing 
 in the utmost luxuriance rice, sugar, and those other articles 
 which require moist and fertile 1 soils. From the Colorado to 
 the Rapides del Toro, a distance of more than fifty miles, the 
 banks of the river vary from six to twenty feet in height, 
 and are densely wooded ; the forests coming down to the 
 water's edge, forming an almost impenetrable wall of verdure. 
 The passenger in the boats is so completely shut in by vege- 
 tation, that it is impossible to discover what is the character 
 of the back country. At intervals lulls and high grounds 
 are to be discerned, and sometimes these come down to the 
 edge of the river. At the mouth of the San Carlos there are 
 
■^^^^^■^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^■■■■■■■■^^■■■■^^H 
 
 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^H 
 
 RIO SAN JUAN — CLIMATE. 
 
 29 
 
 hills two thousand feet high, and the river is much contracted. 
 The entrance of the passage between them, from the west, 
 somewhat resembles the opening of the highlands of the 
 Hudson from the north. 
 
 The banks of the river are in some places rocky ; elsewhere 
 they arc far from being as crumbling as those of the Ohio 
 and Mississippi, and other rivers of the Western States of the 
 Onion. This is perhaps due, to some extent, to the roots of 
 trees and plants which penetrate and bind t lie earth in all 
 directions. The bed of the river may be regarded as essen- 
 tially permanent ; it nevertheless abounds in islands, of which 
 there arc hundreds. Some of these are low, and covered 
 with gamahte, or with canes; but most are as high as the 
 banks of the river, and wooded in like manner. 
 
 The width of the river varies from one hundred to four 
 hundred yards, and its depth from two to twenty feet. The 
 average volume of water I should estimate at about that of 
 the Connecticut River, or the Hudson above the reach of the 
 tides. 
 
 In respect of climate, little need be added to the remarks 
 made on that subject in the preceding chapter. Upon the 
 Atlantic declivity it is unquestionably warmer than in the 
 interior, or upon the borders of the Pacific — more humid and 
 more subject to rain. The country too, is low along the 
 coast, with numerous lagoons and inlets, and consequently 
 more infested with annoying insects and more subject to 
 fevers. The climate, however, is more salubrious than would 
 be supposed under the circumstances. This is illustrated by 
 the fact that in the months of March and April, 1849, a party 
 of American emigrants, one hundred and thirty in num- 
 ber, spent upward of six months at this point ; and notwith- 
 standing the sudden transition from midwinter to tropical 
 heats, not to mention inadequate shelter and indifferent food, 
 not one was seriously affected by illness. The same party, 
 it may also be mentioned, passed up the San Juan under the 
 
BffifffffifilcjnSCJ MM^BWMI 
 
 ■IT 
 
 30 
 
 INTRODUCTION — NICARAGUA. 
 
 worst of circumstances, suffering great exposures, and re- 
 mained in the interior and upon the northern coast until the 
 middle of August, with scarcely any sickness among them, 
 and that little generally the result of carelessness or excesses. 
 The valley of the San Juan once passed, the climate is un 
 surpassed in salubrity by any equal extent of territory under 
 the tropics, or perhaps in the world. The year is divided, 
 rather anomalously to the stranger, into two seasons — the 
 wet and the dry — the first of which is called Winter and the 
 latter Summer. The wet season commences in May and lasts 
 until November; during which time, but usually near the 
 commencement or close, rains of some days' duration are of 
 occasional occurrence, and showers are common, but do not 
 often happen except late in the afternoon, (commencing about 
 four o ; clock,) or in the night. They are seldom of long con- 
 tinuance; and often days and weeks elapse without a cloud 
 obscuring the sky. From this it will be seen, that the popu- 
 lar idea concerning the "rainy season" is erroneous. Proba- 
 bly but little more than one half the amount of rain which 
 falls in the latitude of New York during the same period 
 falls, during these six months, in Nicaragua. Throughout 
 this season the verdure ami the crops, which, during the dry 
 season, become sere and withered, appear in full luxuriance; 
 the temperature is very equable, differing a little in differenl 
 localities, but preserving great uniformity all over the coun- 
 try, except in the mountainous regions. The range of the 
 thermometer is from 78° to 88°, in rare instances sinking to 
 70° during the night, and rising to 90° in the afternoon. 
 During the month of June, at Granada, the average height of 
 the thermometer was 82° of Fah. ; in Leon, during the 
 months of July, August, and September, 83°. Out of the 
 sun, this weather would prove agreeable to most persons. 
 There is almost constantly a cool and pleasant breeze blow- 
 ing, for the most part from the north-east. The nights are 
 delicious, and sleep is seldom, if ever, interrupted by heat. 
 

 DRY AND RAINY SEASONS. 
 
 31 
 
 For weeks together the thermometer marked 77° at ten 
 o'clock in the evening, and 76° at sunrise. During the dry 
 season, in January, the temperature is less, the nights posi- 
 tively cool, and occasionally the winds are chilling. The sky 
 is cloudless, and trifling showers fall at rare intervals. The 
 fields become dry, cattle are driven to the hills and forests 
 for pasturage, and the dust in the towns becomes almost in- 
 supportable. It penetrates everywhere, permeating even 
 through the tiled roofs in showers, and sweeping in clouds 
 through the unglazed windows. Were it not for this, the 
 dry season would not be pronounced unpleasant. It is es- 
 teemed healthier than the wet season. 
 
 The effect of the dry season is practically that of our 
 winter, and it no doubt contributes efficiently to the general 
 health of the country. During that period the exuberance of 
 vegetable growth is checked, and the ephemeral vegetation, 
 which, where the rain falls for the entire year, goes on accu- 
 mulating, forming dense, dank jungles, the home and birth- 
 place of malaria, is entirely dried up. At this period, also, 
 nearly the whole country is burned over. The consequence 
 is, that the forests, for a great part of the year, are nearly as 
 opoi and penetrable as our own. The favorable influences 
 of these conditions upon the general health can readily be 
 understood. 1 
 
 1 "The climate of all the slate may be said to be good and healthy, but 
 is distinguished, as is that of the other states, by much variety. In the 
 
 interior, or mountainous parts, the temperature is mild, as compared with 
 the most populous portion of the territory adjacent to the sea-coast, where 
 it is hot, and rather humid, owing to evaporation from the surfaces of two 
 great lakes; which, from the combined effects of a' powerful sun, and a 
 fresh breeze from the north-east, blowing over them almost constantly, 
 must lie great. Both climate and temperature appear to be extremely 
 favorable to the general health of natives as well as well as foreigners; 
 the exceptions in this important point being very few, and of trifling con- 
 sequence in the injury which they occasion. The changes of season take 
 place with the same almost uudeviating regularity as in other parts of 
 
BHBWBH 
 
 ■■H 
 
 ■nr 
 
 INTRODUCTION — NICARAGUA. 
 
 Nicaragua is divided into six Departments, each of which 
 has several Judicial Districts, as follows : 
 
 DEPARTMENTS. 
 
 POPULATION. 
 
 DISTRICTS. 
 
 1. Meridional . . ... 
 
 2. Oriental 
 
 4. Septentrional of Matagalpa 
 
 5. Septentrional ofSegovia . 
 
 6. Nieoya or Guanacaste . . 
 
 Total 
 
 20.000 
 95,000 
 
 90,000 
 40,000 
 12,000 
 
 7,000 
 
 264,000 
 
 Rivas or Nicaragua. 
 
 Acoyapa or Chontales, 
 Granada, Masaya, and 
 Managua. 
 
 Leon and Cbinandega 
 
 Matagalpa. 
 
 Sept via. 
 
 Guanacaste. 
 
 The population here given is the result arrived at, in round 
 numbers, by a census attempted in 1846. It was only par- 
 tially successful, as the people supposed it preliminary to 
 sonic military conscription, or new tax. 
 
 The principal towns of the State, with their estimated 
 population, are as follows : — 
 
 Leon, (the capital,) including 
 
 Subtiaba 30,000 
 
 Chinandega 11,000 
 
 Chinandega Viejo .... 3,000 
 
 Realej 1,000 
 
 Chichigalpa 2,800 
 
 Posultega 900 
 
 Telica 1,000 
 
 Somotillo 2,000 
 
 Villa Nueva 1,000 
 
 Pueblo Nuevo 2,900 
 
 Nagarote 1,800 
 
 Souci 2,500 
 
 Managua 12,000 
 
 Masaya 15,090 
 
 Granada 10,000 
 
 Nicaragua 8,000 
 
 Segovia 8,000 
 
 Matagalpa 2,000 
 
 A.coyapa, 500 
 
 It is a singular fact that the females greatly exceed the 
 males in number. In the Department Occidental, according 
 to the census, the proportions are as three to two. It is 
 difficult to account for this disparity, except by supposing it 
 
 Central America; but the rains often continue a month longer here, and 
 the quantity during the season appears to be considerably more copious; 
 also casual showers, out of the periodical limit, are not unfrequent be- 
 tween the lakes, and the lakes and the sea, affording much benefit to 
 vegetation on the cultivated lands." — BAKiY. 
 

 ■HHIIII^^H 
 
 POPULATION — DWELLINGS. 
 
 33 
 
 to be the result of the civil commotions to which the country 
 has been so long subjected. 
 
 The civilized Indians of Nicaragua, and those of Spanish 
 and negro stocks crossed with them, constitute the mass of 
 the population. The white individuals of pure European 
 stock are but a small part of the whole, and are nearly 
 equalled in number by those of pure negro blood. The en- 
 tire population may be divided as follows : 
 
 Whites, 25,000 
 
 Negroes, 15,000 
 
 Indians, 80,000 
 
 Mixed, 130,000 
 
 Total, 250,000 
 
 Most of these live in towns, many of them going two, four, 
 and six miles daily, to labor in the fields, starting before 
 day and returning at night. The plantations, "haciendas," 
 "hattos," "huertas," "ranchos," and " chacras," are scattered 
 pretty equally over the country, and are often reached by 
 paths so obscure as almost wholly to escape the notice of 
 travellers, who, passing through what appears to be a con- 
 tinuous forest from one town to the other, are liable to foil 
 into the error of supposing the country almost wholly unin- 
 habited. Their dwellings are usually of canes, thatched with 
 palm, many of them open at the sides, and with no other 
 floor than the bare earth. These fragile structures, so equa- 
 ble and mild is the climate, are adequate to such protection 
 as the natives arc accustomed to consider necessary. Some 
 of them are more pretending, and have the canes plastered 
 over and whitewashed, with tiled roofs and other improve- 
 ments ; and there are a few, belonging to large proprietors, 
 which are exceedingly neat and comfortable, approaching 
 nearer our ideas of habitations for human beings. 
 
 A large part of the dwellings in the towns are much of the 
 same character ; the residences of the better classes, however, 
 are built of adobes, are of one story, and enclose large courts, 
 5 
 
■n 
 
 34 
 
 INTRODUCTION — NICARAGUA. 
 
 which are entered under archways, often constructed with 
 great beauty. The court-yard has generally a great number 
 of shade trees, usually orange, making the corridors, upon 
 which all the rooms open, exceedingly pleasant. 
 
 I have already said that the natural resources of Nicaragua 
 are immense, but they have been very imperfectly developed. 
 The portion of lands brought under cultivation is very 
 small, but ample for the support of its population. There is 
 no difficulty in increasing the amount to an indefinite extent, 
 for the forests are easily removed, and genial nature needs 
 no forcing to return rich harvests. There are many cattle 
 estates, particularly in Chontales, Matagalpa, and Segovia, 
 which cover wide tracts of country ; some of these have not 
 less than 10,000 or 15,000 head of cattle each. The cattle 
 are generally line, quite equal to those of the United States. 
 
 Among the staples of the State, and which are produced 
 in great perfection, I may mention sugar, cotton, coffee, in- 
 digo, tobacco, rice, and maize, or Indian corn. 
 
 Sugar. — The description of sugar-cane grown in Nicaragua 
 is a native of the country, and very different from the Asiatic 
 cane cultivated in the West Indies and the United States. 
 It is said to be equally productive with the foreign species ; 
 the cants are softer and more slender, and contain more and 
 stronger juice, in proportion to their size, than the Asiatic 
 variety. Two crops (under favorable circumstances three 
 crops) are taken annually, and the cane does not require 
 replanting but once in twelve or fourteen years. The best 
 kind of sugar produced from the sugar estates is nearly as 
 white as the refined sugar of commerce, the crystals being 
 large and hard. The greater part of the supply for ordinary 
 consumption is what is called " cliuncaca" and is the juice 
 of the cane merely boiled till it crystallizes, without being 
 cleared of the molasses. A quantity of this is exported to 
 Peru, and elsewhere in South America. It is stated that the 
 " chancaca" may be produced, ready for sale, at $1 25 per 
 

 PRODUCTIONS — COTTON — •COFFEE. 
 
 85 
 
 quintal (101 ; ) lbs. English.) The most profitable part of the 
 sugar establishment is the manufacture of "aguardiente" a 
 species of rum. It is impossible to say, in the absence of 
 data, what amount of sugar is manufactured in Nicaragua; 
 it is perhaps enough to know that it may be produced in- 
 definitely. The export has been estimated at 200,000 lbs. 
 
 Cotton. — Cotton of a superior quality to that of Brazil 
 may be produced in any quantity in Nicaragua. "As many 
 as 50,000 bales, of 300 pounds each," says Dunlap, " of clean 
 pressed cotton have been exported from this State in a single 
 year; the cultivation is, however, at present (1846) at a very 
 low ebb." Considerable quantities are nevertheless raised, 
 which are manufactured by the natives, but chiefly by the 
 Indians, into hammocks, sail-cloth, and ordinary clothing. 
 The domestic cloth is coarse, but compact, neat, and durable. 
 
 Mr. Baily observes of the cotton of Nicaragua, "that it 
 has already a high standard in the Manchester market, and 
 offers a splendid speculation to agriculturists, if a good port 
 of export on the Atlantic shall be established." 
 
 Coffee. — Coffee of an excellent quality, and probably 
 equal to any in the world, may also be produced indefinitely 
 in this republic; but for the reason that hitherto it has been 
 exceedingly difficult to get it to a market, it is not very ex- 
 tensively cultivated. The plantations which 1 have seen are 
 very flourishing, and the proprietors find them quite as pro- 
 fitable as any other. The limited cultivation is perhaps due 
 to the circumstance that chocolate is the common beverage 
 of the people ; and coffee, never having become an article of 
 trade or export, has consequently been neglected. There is 
 no reason why as good coffee may not be produced here 
 as in Costa Rica ; and the Costa Rican coffee, when offered in 
 good condition in England, commands as high a price as 
 any other. As, however, it is usually shipped by way of 
 Cape Horn, it often suffers from the protracted voyage. It 
 has, nevertheless, been the almost exclusive source of wealth 
 
■nr 
 
 36 
 
 INTRODUCTION — NICARAGUA. 
 
 iu Costa Rica. The crop of 1847 amounted to 8,000,000 
 pounds, which, at $12 50 per cwt., (the average price in the 
 English market,) gives $1,000,000 as the return — a consid- 
 erable sum for a State of less than 100,000 inhabitants, and 
 where the culture has been introduced but fourteen years. 
 The cost of production, per quintal (101? pounds,) at the 
 present rate of wages, (twenty-five cents per day) is about 
 $2 50. If the attention of the people of Nicaragua should 
 be seriously directed to the production of coffee, it would prove 
 a source of great profit. 
 
 Cacao. — Cacao, only equalled by that of Soconosco, on 
 the coast of Guatemala, (and which was once monopolized 
 for the use of the royal establishment of Spain,) is cultivated 
 in considerable quantities. It is, however, an article of 
 general consumption among the inhabitants ; and conse- 
 quently, commands so high a price that it would not bear 
 exportation, even though it could be obtained in requisite 
 quantities. About all that finds its way abroad goes in the 
 form of presents from one friend to the other. There is no 
 reason why this should not become an article of large trade, 
 and a source of great wealth. The obvious cause why its 
 production is not greater, is, the length of time and great 
 outlay required in getting a cacao plantation into paying 
 operation. Few have now the requisite capital ; and these 
 few are in too feverish a state, in consequence of the dis- 
 tracted condition of public affairs, to venture upon any 
 investment. Under a stable condition of things, and by the 
 opening of a short and easy channel to market, the cultiva- 
 tion of cacao will rise to be of the first importance. The 
 trees give two principal crops in the year. It is sold from 
 $15 to $20 the quintal, while the Guayaquil is worth but $5 
 or $6. 
 
 Indigo. — Indigo was formerly cultivated to a considerable 
 extent, but has of late years much fallen off; and there are 
 a number of fine indigo estates in various parts of the republic 
 

 PRODUCTIONS — TOBACCO — MAIZE. 
 
 o7 
 
 which have been quite given up, with all their appurtenances, 
 by their respective proprietors. The plant cultivated for the 
 manufacture of Indigo is the indigofera, a triennial plant, 
 supposed to be a native of America. There is also an indi- 
 genous triennial plant abounding in many parts of Central 
 America, which produces indigo of a very excellent quality, 
 but gives less than half the weight which is produced by the 
 cultivated species. The indigo of Nicaragua is of very 
 superior quality, and its export once came up to 5,000 bales 
 of 150 lbs. each. It is impossible to say what the export is 
 at present ; probably not more than 1,000 or 2,000 bales. 
 Under the government of Spain, the State of San Salvador 
 produced from 8,000 to 10,000 bales annually. A piece of 
 ground equal to two acres generally produces about 100 to 
 120 pounds, at a cost of not far from $30 to $40, including 
 the cost of clearing the field and all other expenses. 
 
 Tokacco. — A large amount of tobacco is used in Nicaragua, 
 all of which is produced in the country. A considerable 
 quantity was this year (1819) shipped to California. It 
 may be cultivated to any desirable extent, and is of a very 
 superior quality. That of San Salvador and Honduras is 
 said to be equal to the best Havana for cigars. 
 
 Maize flourishes luxuriantly, and three crops may be 
 raised on the same ground annually. It is essentially the 
 "staff of life" in all Central America, being the material of 
 which the eternal tortilla is composed. The green stalks, 
 "sacate," constitute about the only fodder for horses and 
 cattle in the country, and is supplied daily in all the. principal 
 towns. The abundance of this grain may be inferred from 
 the fact that a fanega of Leon (equivalent to about five 
 bushels of English) of shelled corn, in 1819, commanded in 
 the capital but one dollar. 
 
 Wheat and all other cereal grains, as well as the fruits of 
 temperate climates, flourish in the elevated districts of Sego- 
 
BHBR 
 
 HBI 
 
 nr 
 
 38 
 
 INTRODUCTION NICARAGUA. 
 
 via, in the northern part of the republic, bordering upon 
 Honduras, where, it is said, except in the absence of snow, 
 little difference is to be observed, in respect to climate, from 
 the southern parts of the United States. 
 
 RlCE is abundant in Nicaragua, and is extensively used, 
 and, like maize, may be easily cultivated to any extent 
 desirable. It is sold at from $1 50 to $2 per cwt. 
 
 In short, nearly all the edibles and fruits of the tropics are 
 produced naturally, or may be cultivated in great perfection. 
 Plantains, bananas, beans, chile, tomatoes, bread-fruit, arrow- 
 root, ocra, citrous, oranges, limes, lemons, pine-apples (the 
 delicious white Guayaquil, as well as the yellow variety), 
 mamays, anonas or chirimoyas, guavas, cocoa-nuts, and a 
 hundred other varieties of plants and fruits. Among the 
 vegetable productions of commerce may be mentioned sarsa- 
 parilla, anota, aloes, ipecacuanha, ginger, vanilla, Peruvian 
 bark (quinine), cowhage, copal, gum arabic, eopaiva, caout- 
 chouc, dragon's blood, and vanglo, or oil plant. Among the 
 valuable trees: mahogany, log-wood, Brazil-wood, lignum- 
 vitae, fustic, yellow sanders, pine (on the heights), dragon's 
 blood tree, silk-cottorj tree, oak, copal tree, cedar, button- 
 wood, iron-wood, rose-wood, Nicaragua wood, calabash, etc., 
 etc. Of these, Brazil wood, cedar, and mahogany are found 
 in the forests in what may be termed inexhaustible quantities. 
 The cedar is a large tree, like the red cedar of the North in 
 nothing except eolor and durability, and in solidity and other 
 respects closely resembling the black walnut. Five or six 
 cargoes of Brazil wood are exported from Realejo yearly, and 
 something more from San Juan. A quantity of cedar plank 
 is also exported to South America. 
 
 The raising of cattle and the production of cheese is a. most 
 important item in the actual resources of Nicaragua. The 
 cheese is for common consumption, and great quantities are 
 used. Large droves of cattle are annually sent to the other 
 

 MINERAL RESOURCES. 
 
 39 
 
 States, where they command very fair prices. About thirty- 
 rive or forty thousand hides are also exported annually. 
 
 The mineral resources of Nicaragua are also very great. 
 Gold, silver, copper, lead, and iron, may be found in consid- 
 erable quantities in various parts, but more particularly in 
 Segovia, which district is probably not exceeded in its mineral 
 wealth by any equal portion of the continent. The working 
 of the mines has of course vastly fallen off from the time of 
 the Spaniards ; still, their produce is considerable, but it is 
 impossible to obtain any satisfactory statistics concerning it. 
 A portion of the gold and silver finds its way through Izabal 
 to the Balize ; other portions pass on through the ports of 
 Truxillo and Omoa, in Honduras; and another but smaller 
 part reaches the ports of Nicaragua. 
 
 There is now no mint in Central America, excepting a 
 small one in Costa Rica, which, coins from $50,000 to $100,000 
 annually, principally in dollar pieces of gold. These are 
 short of weight, and are not generally current. Their true 
 value is ninety-three cents. Humboldt, in his statement of 
 the produce of the respective mining districts of America, 
 has put against that of Guatemala, "nothing;" but it is 
 certain from the accounts of Gage and others, as also of the 
 buccaneers, who made a number of profitable expeditions to 
 the mining districts, that the precious metals were early pro- 
 duced in considerable abundance. From a report by the 
 master of the old mint, made in 1825, it appears that, for 
 the fifteen years anterior to 1810, gold and silver had been 
 coined to the amount of $2,193,832, and Cor the fifteen years 
 posterior to that date, to the amount of $3,810,382. This 
 officer remarks, "that it must not be deduced from hence 
 that this is all our mines have produced in this period, as 
 great quantities of the metal have been manufactured and 
 exported in their native state." He estimates the actual 
 products of the mines at ten times the amount coined ; which 
 would give upwards of $50,000,000 for the thirty years pre- 
 
9999 
 
 40 
 
 INTRODUCTION — NICARAGUA. 
 
 cediug 1825. This estimate will probably bear some deduc- 
 tion. 1 
 
 Other minerals are abundant. Sulphur may be obtained 
 
 1 Dunlap, who paid considerable attention to the mines and minerals of 
 Central America, observes : 
 
 "Though the vegetable productions of Central America are so valuable, 
 the hidden treasures are scarcely of inferior worth; and in no part of the 
 world are mines so generally found in nearly every district. Many of 
 these were successfully worked after the conquest and during the Spanish 
 dominion. Besides the mines of gold and silver, there are others contain- 
 ing lead in nearly a pure state; the ore yielding 90 per cent, of metal. 
 In some specimens 25 per cent, of silver is said to be mixed with the lead. 
 
 "At the village of Patapa, nine leagues from Santa Ana, in the State 
 of San Salvador, are some rich mines of iron, which produce a purer and 
 more malleable metal than any imported from Europe: the ore is close to 
 the surface, and very abundant, and there are extensive forests in the 
 immediate vicinity, which serve for making charcoal. But, notwith- 
 standing, the amount of iron manufactured is only equal to the supply of 
 the State, where it is worth $10 the 100 11 is., or $"J00 per ton. In the 
 same neighborhood are several silver mines, which were successfully 
 worked in the time of the Spaniards, but are now abandoned for want of 
 capital to carry them on. 
 
 "Five leagues north of San Miguel are a number of mines, principally 
 of silver; among them was one called La Carolina, worked by a Spaniard 
 about thirty years ago. He invested his own property, borrowed $ L00, 000, 
 and. after gettingthe mine in working order, in less than six months was 
 enabled to pay his obligations; and, although he died before the end of 
 the year, left $70,000 in gold and silver, the produce of the mine. After 
 his death, the ownership was disputed, the works fell into ruins, and the 
 mine became filled with water, in which condition it remains. The mines 
 of Tabaneo were more celebrated than those in this vicinity, and when 
 worked yielded upward of $1,000,000 annually, although worked in a rude 
 manner, without machinery. The principal of these once yielded $200,000 
 annual profit to the proprietors. 
 
 "Near the town of Tegucigalpa, the capital of Honduras, then; are a 
 number of mines which still produce a considerable amount of the precious 
 metals, although not one-tenth of what they formerly yielded. All the 
 hills in the neighborhood abound in gold and silver, generally intermixed; 
 and though none of them have been excavated to any depth, or worked 
 
■^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^■■■■■■■■■■■^^^H 
 
 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^H 
 
 MINES AND MINERALS. 
 
 41 
 
 in great quantities, crude and nearly pure, from the volca- 
 noes ; and nitre is easily procured, as also sulphate of iron. 
 
 by proper machinery, they have formerly yielded more than $2,000,000 
 per year; and were European capital and science introduced, the produce 
 Avould be great. Prom all I have been able to collect, this neighborhood 
 appears to possess natural stores of the precious metals, even exceeding 
 those of the celebrated mines of Potosi, in Bolivia. For a scientific and 
 practical miner, supported by capital, they probably offer the best adven- 
 ture to be found in Spanish America. 
 
 " The ores generally contain from 12 to 15 per cent, of silver, and from 
 one to one and a half per cent, of gold; but the latter metal is often found 
 pure in many places, and the value of some thousands of dollars is annu- 
 ally collected by the Indians in the sands of the rivers, pieces of gold 
 weighing as many as five and six pounds having occasionally been discov- 
 ered. 
 
 "Some rich gold washings exist at Matagalpa, near Segovia, in Nica- 
 ragua, which are only worked by the Indians, who annually collect and 
 dispose of a few pounds of very pure gold. Some copper mines have also 
 been discovered here, the ore of which, when shipped to England, yielded 
 35 per cent, of copper. 
 
 "In the district of Nicoya, in the same Slate, many traces of the 
 precious metals are said to exist, but as the country is almost wholly 
 uninhabited, little is known concerning them. 
 
 "In the mountain of Aguaeate, in Costa Rica, several profitable gold 
 mines are still worked with fair profits." — Dunlaps Central America, 18d7, 
 pp.277, 284. 
 
 An English traveller named Byam, who, although destitute of scientific 
 knowledge, seems to have visited Nicaragua for mining purposes, states 
 that the silver \mines which he observed ''were fine, broad, but rather 
 irregular veins, the ore combined with sulphur and lead. The ore is hard 
 but clean." The copper ores, he informs us, " are almost all uncombined 
 with sulphur, or any other combination which requires calcining to be got 
 rid of. They may all be smelted in a common blast furnace, with the aid 
 of equal quantities of iron-stone, which lies in large quantities on the 
 surface of all the hilly country. They are what the Spanish miners call 
 'metal de color,' red and blue oxides and green carbonates, with now and 
 then the brown or pigeon-breasted. They cut easily and smoothly with 
 the knife, and yield from twenty-five to sixty per cent. The copper veins 
 are generally vertical, and the larger ones run east and west." This 
 
 6 
 
12 
 
 INTRODUCTION — NICARAGUA. 
 
 The modes of mining practised in Central America are 
 exceedingly rude, and render it surprising that profitable 
 
 writer has the following references to the gold washings of the 
 country : 
 
 " Some adventurers, generally of the very lowest class, both in manners 
 and morals, proceed to the auriferous streams, that run through the south 
 part of the Honduras nearest to Segovia, for two or three months during 
 the dryest part of the year, and when the rains have entirely subsided. 
 Their baggage is very light and easily carried on a donkey or half-starved 
 mule, for they only provide each for himself and his female helpmate a 
 small load of Indian corn, barely enough for the pair, some tobacco, a 
 smaH stone for grinding the corn, an earthen pan or two, a hatchet, and a 
 small leathern bag to put the gold in when found. They also take a few 
 half gourds dried, to wash the earth in, and a grass hammock to sleep in. 
 and away they start, driving their animals before them, each man carrying 
 his machete or short heavy broad sword, and some, bows and arrows, 
 The part of the country is almost uninhabited, and, on their arrival at the 
 different streams, they generally separate, and each pair chooses a spot 
 often miles apart, where they commence operations. The first thing is to 
 build a " Ramada," or hut of branches, as the name signifies ; but they 
 always select a place where two good-sized trees are near enough together, 
 to enable them to swing their hammocks between them. With a few 
 poles and branches with the leaf on, a hut is made in two or three hours; 
 the man then makes a pile of dry wood near at hand, and leaves the entire 
 care of the household to the woman, who grinds the corn, and every day 
 makes a few cakes, looking like thin pancakes, which are toasted on a flat 
 earthen pan over the wood ashes. Their drink is a little maize meal and 
 cacao nut ground together, mixed with water and stirred up in a gourd; 
 and thus the pair vegetate for two or three months, supported by the 
 hopes of living well for the remainder of the year. The man is always 
 within sight of the hut, in case assistance be wanted in such a wild spot ; 
 and he digs holes into the ground near the stream, and after having piled 
 up a heap of earth close to the water, washes it in the half gourds, when, 
 after repeated changes of water, and the spot chosen having proved a good 
 one, a little fine gold dust is often visible in the gourd. It requires a 
 great deal of nicety to balance the gourd backwards and forwards, up and 
 down, and round about, so as to get rid of the earth; and it is still more 
 difficult, at the last washing, to manage to leave the gold altogether, at 
 the very end of the remaining deposit, which is generally of a black or 
 
■ 
 
 •M-AYJ£Z#Va 
 
 
 MINES — POETS. 
 
 43 
 
 results should be attained. The silver and gold ores are 
 crushed in a basin of masonry, in which rises a vertical shaft, 
 driven generally by a horizontal water-wheel. This shaft 
 has two arms, to each of which is suspended a large stone 
 or boulder. These are the crushers. After the ore is 
 reduced to sufficient fineness, the metal is separated by 
 amalgam ; a long and expensive process, which is now 
 beginning to be much facilitated and cheapened by the 
 introduction of the German or "barrel process." The 
 machines for crushing the ores have, however, as yet, under- 
 gone but slight improvement. Some of the mines in San 
 Salvador and Costa Kica have European machinery, and are 
 worked to great advantage. 
 
 The most important silver mines in Nicaragua, at present, 
 are those called Dipilta, in the northern part of the republic. 
 
 These have been worked only for a short period, and 
 under very disadvantageous circumstances. They have, 
 nevertheless, during the last three years, produced upwards 
 of 26,000 marks (17,300 lbs.) of silver. The average yield of 
 the ores is something over one and a half per cent. The better 
 qualities of ore produce nearly two per cent, of pure metal. 
 
 Nicaragua has a number of excellent ports, the best known 
 of which are San Juan, on the Atlantic, and Kealejo, on the 
 Pari tic. These will be specially noticed in another connec- 
 tion. It may, nevertheless, be observed that they are ade- 
 quate to all the wants of commerce, and are not surpassed in 
 natural advantages by any of the American ports under the 
 tropics. No returns of their commerce have been made 
 public for many years; and there are, in consequence, no 
 
 dark gray color. The grains of gold are often large enough to be picked 
 out after one or two washings, and often of a size to be discerned whilst 
 digging, and a man in good luck may find enough gold in a week to keep 
 him comfortably the whole year; but money easily got generally soon 
 goes ; and on the return of the lucky pair to their town, it is too often 
 quickly spent in gambling and low debauchery." 
 
^mm 
 
 44 
 
 INTRODUCTION — NICARAGUA. 
 
 means of determining what has been the trade of the country. 
 This information, however, is now of little importance; for 
 recent events have opened entirely new markets, 1 and new 
 
 1 In a report made to the British government in 1837, l>y Mr. Foster, 
 British Vice-Consul, and one of the principal traders of the country, the 
 character of the imports and exports of the country are exhibited as 
 follows: 
 
 "The prices of foreign manufactures have now found their level in 
 these markets, and the consumption of those articles used by the poorer 
 classes has increased in a wonderful degree both in quantity and quality ; 
 and the demand for foreign manufactures (of which British cottons of 
 inferior quality have a prominent part) will naturally go on at an increased 
 rate. 
 
 " The foreign imports may be classed under the following heads: 
 
 "British — consist of calicoes, printed cottons, (domestic or gray,) and 
 power-loom shirtings, linen and cotton mixed, or unions, linens, muslins, 
 hosiery, hard earthenware, iron, steel, lead, powder, etc., etc. 
 
 " French — consist of silks, printed cottons, cambrics, wine, spirits, 
 jewelry, and fancy articles. 
 
 "United States — consist of domestic cottons, soap, sperm candles, hard- 
 ware, spirits of inferior quality, and powder. 
 
 "Spanish — consist of paper, silk, riband, wine, oil, spirits, etc. 
 
 "Germany — consist of osnaburgs, glassware, wax, furniture, hardware, 
 
 steel, wille, ete. 
 
 " Italy — consist of paper, oil, silk, and liquors. 
 
 "Colombia — consist of cacao and straw hats. 
 
 "Peru — consist ofxerga, (a coarse woollen cloth,) tin, spirits, and com- 
 mon sweet wine. 
 
 "Chill — consist of sweet wine and pel ones. 
 
 " The value of British goods imported maybe taken at two-thirds of 
 the whole of the imports. 
 
 "The consumption of French goods, being principally articles of luxury, 
 is chiefly confined to the cities of Guatemala, San Salvador, Leon, 
 Granada, etc. German linens, shirtings, and glassware are articles of gene- 
 ral consumption. In Spanish goods, with the exception of ribands, the 
 imports arc trivial. They have given way to those of France and Italy. 
 
 "The sickness of this year has had considerable influence on the exports. 
 Cochineal and indigo form the principal; great quantities, particularly of 
 the former, are shipped from the ports on the northern side of Ilond iras. 
 

 TRADE AND COMMERCE. 
 
 45 
 
 avenues of trade, and the past can be no criterion for the 
 future in estimating the present and future commercial im- 
 portance of the country. 
 
 From the ports of the Pacific, 1,500 ceroons have been exported during 
 the year to Europe, and the ports of Peru and Chile. Hides, horns, 
 sarsaparilla, and balsam, for Europe and the United Sates, and mahogany, 
 cellar, and sugar, for Chile and Peru. Those form the principal articles of 
 the export trade, which, in proportion to the imports, is on the increase. 
 Brazil wood, with which this State as well as Costa Rica abounds, for- 
 merly afforded employment to a great number of British vessels. The fall 
 of this article in the home markets has for the present caused it to be but 
 little sought for. 
 
 " In agriculture, this State is rapidly improving. In addition to indigo, 
 sugar, cacao, wheat, etc., etc., coffee and cotton are now better attended 
 to, but more particularly cotton and indigo. The former, which is much 
 esteemed and known in the European market as ' green suche,' is an 
 annual plant. The staple is short, which defect is overbalanced by its 
 superior texture; and it is particularly adapted to certain manufactures." 
 
■I 
 
■91 
 
 
 NARRATIVE. 
 
HBRKf 
 
 
 NARRATIVE. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 THE BRIG FRANCIS DEPARTURE PROM NEW YORK SAN DOMINGO THE COAST 
 
 OF CENTRAL AMERICA MONKEY POINT SHREWD SPECULATIONS A NAKED 
 
 PILOT ALMOST A SHIPWRECK SAN JUAN DE NICARAGUA MUSIC OF THE 
 
 CHAIN CABLE A POMPOUS OFFICIAL DELIVERING A LETTER OF INTRODUC- 
 TION TERRA FIRMA AGAIN "NAGUAS" AND " GUIPILS" THE TOWN AND 
 
 ITS LAGUNA SNAKES AND ALLIGATORS PRACTICAL EQUALITY CELT VS. 
 
 NEGRO A WAN POLICEMAN — THE BRITISH CONSUL GENERAL FOR MOSQUITIA 
 
 "OUR HOUSE" IN SAN JUAN — AN EMEUTE — PIGS AND POLICE — A VISCOMTE 
 
 ON THE STUMP A SERENADE MOSQUITO INDIANS — A PICTURE OF PRIMITIVE 
 
 SIMPLICITY. 
 
 The preceding general observations will serve to give an 
 outline view of Central America and Nicaragua, and prepare 
 the way for more detailed accounts of the country and its 
 inhabitants. In attempting to give these, I shall refer to 
 localities as they fell under my notice in entering and pass- 
 ing through the country, and record incidents very nearly in 
 the order in which they occurred. 
 
 The point in Nicaragua most accessible from the United 
 States, and that to which the traveller would most naturally 
 take his course, is the now well-known port of San Juan de 
 Nicaragua, situated upon the shores of the Caribbean Sea, 
 about three hundred miles to the north-west of Chagres. The 
 little brig Francis, of New York, was " up" for this port in the 
 
50 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 early part of May, in the year of grace 1849 ; and, for satis- 
 factory reasons, overruling all choice in the premises, berths 
 were engaged in her for myself and companions. She lay at 
 the foot of Eoosevelt street, in the terra incognita beyond the 
 Bowery, — a pigmy amongst the larger vessels which sur- 
 rounded her. We reported ourselves on board, in compli- 
 ance with the special request of the owners, at 9 o'clock od 
 the morning of the 11th, just as the human tide ebbed from 
 the high- water mark of Fourth street and Union Square, and 
 subsided for the day amongst the rugged banks and danger- 
 ous shallows of Wall and Pearl streets. 
 
 The Francis had received her freight, and her decks were 
 encumbered with pigs and poultry, spars and tarpaulins, to 
 say nothing of water casks and tar barrels, forbidding in 
 advance any peregrinations, by unsteady landsmen, beyond 
 the quarter deck. The quarter deck was so called by cour- 
 tesy only : it was elevated but a few inches above the waist, 
 and, deducting the room occupied by hen-coops, water-casks, 
 and the man at the helm, afforded but about ten square 
 feet of space, in which the unfortunate passengers might 
 " recreate" themselves. This might have sufficed for men of 
 moderate desires, but then it was far from being "contigu- 
 ous territory." 
 
 In a word, we found ourselves in the midst of a confusion 
 which none but the experienced traveller can coolly con- 
 template. Our friends, or rather the more daring of them, 
 scrambled over the intervening decks, or hailed us from the 
 rigging of the neighboring vessels. We would have invited 
 them on board, but there was no room to receive them ; be- 
 sides the descent was perilous. All partings are much alike, 
 but ours were made with a prodigious affectation of good 
 spirits. We were to have sailed precisely at ten ; but when 
 eleven was chimed, the number which had come "expressly 
 to see us off," was sensibly diminished ; and at twelve we 
 were left to our own contemplations. 
 

 DEPARTURE FROM NEW YORK. 
 
 51 
 
 There was a prodigious pulling of ropes ; the same boxes 
 were tumbled from one place to another and back again ; 
 trunks disappeared and came to light, and it seemed as if 
 everybody was engaged in a grand search for nobody knew 
 what. At one o'clock the pilot came on board. The delay 
 had become painful, and now we thought the time for sailing 
 had arrived. But the pilot was a fat man, and sat down im- 
 perturbably upon a water-cask. " Well, Mr. Pilot, are we 
 off?" He deigned no audible reply, but glanced upwards sig- 
 nificantly towards the streamer at the masthead. The wind 
 blew briskly in from the Narrows. So we seated ourselves 
 upon the water-casks also, and watched the men who were 
 painting the next ship, and almost nodded ourselves to sleep, 
 to the monotonous "yo-ho" of the sailors unloading an India- 
 man near by. The roar of Broadway fell subdued and dis- 
 tant upon our ears ; and the ferry-boats and little steamers 
 in the river seemed to move about in silence, going to and 
 fro apparently without an object, like ants around an ant- 
 hill. 
 
 By-and-by a little, black bull-dog of a steamer thrust itself 
 valiantly through the crowd of vessels, made a rope fast to 
 our bows, and dragged us, with a jerk, triumphantly into the 
 stream, past Governor's Island, down to the outer bay, and 
 then left us to take care of ourselves. That night the sun 
 went down cold and filmy, and the Francis tumbled roughly 
 about amidst the dark waves of the Atlantic. * * * A 
 calm Tinder the high capes of San Domingo, — an infinitude of 
 thunder squalls, with the pleasant consciousness of a hundred 
 kegs of gunpowder stowed snugly around the foot of the 
 mainmast, — a "close shave" on the coral reefs below Ja- 
 maica, — for twenty-six mortal days this was all which Ave 
 had of relief from the detestable monotony of shipboard. 
 Blessed be steam ! * * * * 
 
 It was a dark and rainy morning, when " Land on the lee- 
 bow," was sung out by the man at the helm, and in less time 
 
52 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 than is occupied in writing it, the occupants of the close little 
 cabin made their way on deck, to look for the first time upon 
 the coast of Central America. The dim outlines of the land 
 were just discernible through the murky atmosphere, and 
 many and profound were the conjectures hazarded as to what 
 precise point was then in view. The result finally arrived at 
 was, that we were off " Monkey Point," about thirty miles 
 to the northward of our destined port. This conclusion was 
 soon confirmed by observing, close under the shadow of the 
 shore, an immense rock, rising with all the regularity of the 
 Pyramids to the height of three hundred feet ; a landmark 
 too characteristic to be mistaken. 
 
 We were sweeping along with a stiff breeze, and were 
 comforted with the assurance that we should be in port to 
 breakfast, "if" as the Cautious captain observed, "the wind 
 held." But the perverse wind did not hold, and in half an 
 hour thereafter we were rocking about with a wash-tubby 
 motion, the most disagreeable that can be imagined, and of 
 which we had had three days' experience under the Capes of 
 San Domingo. The haze cleared a little, and with our 
 glasses we could make out a long, low line of shore, covered 
 with the densest verdure, with here and there the feathery 
 palm, which forms so picturesque a feature in all tropical 
 scenery, lifting itself proudly above the rest of the forest, and 
 the whole relieved against a background of high hills, over 
 which the gray mist still hung like a veil. 
 
 Some of the party could even make out the huts on the 
 shore ; but the old man at the helm smiled incredulously, 
 and said there were no huts there, and that the unbroken and 
 untenanted forest extended far back to the great ridge of the 
 Cordilleras. So it was when the adventurous Spaniards 
 coasted here three centuries ago, and so it had remained ever 
 since. These observations were interrupted by a heavy 
 shower, acceptable for the wind it brought, which filled the 
 idle sails, and moved us towards our haven. And though 
 
»'£ ; &£-' 
 
 
 COAST OF CENTRAL AMERICA. 53 
 
 the rain fell in torrents, it did not deter us from getting 
 soaked, in vain endeavors to harpoon the porpoises that 
 came tumbling in numbers around our bows. 
 
 But the shower passed, and with it our breeze, and again 
 the brig rocked lazily on the water, which was now filled 
 with branches of trees, and among the rubbish that drifted 
 past, a broken spear and a cocoa-nut attracted particular 
 attention; the one showed the proximity of a people whose 
 primitive weapons had not yet given place to those more 
 effective, of civilized ingenuity, and the other was a certain 
 index of the tropics. The shower passed, but it had carried 
 us within sight of our port. Those who had previously seen 
 cabins on the shore could not now perceive any evidences of 
 human habitation, and stoutly persisted that we had lost our 
 reckoning, and that we were far from our destined haven. 
 But a trim schooner which was just then seen moving rapidly 
 along under a pouring shower, in the same direction with 
 ourselves, silenced the pretended doubters, and became im- 
 mediately a subject of great speculation. It was finally 
 
 agreed on all hands that it must be the B , a vessel which 
 
 left New York three days before us, the captain of which had 
 hpasted that he would "beat us in, by at least ten days." So 
 everybody was anxious that the little brig should lead him 
 into the harbor, and many were the objurgations upon the 
 wind, and desperate the attempts of the sailors to avail them- 
 selves of every "cat's-paw" that passed. 
 
 The excitement was great, and some of the impatient pas- 
 sengers inquired for sweeps, and recommended putting out 
 the yawl to tow the vessel in. They even forgot, such was 
 the excitement, to admire the emerald shores which were now 
 distinct, not more than half a mile distant, and prayed that a 
 black-looking thunder-storm, looming gloomily in the east, 
 might make a diversion in our favor. And then a speck was 
 discerned in the direction of the port ; and by-aud-by the 
 movement of the oars could be seen, and bodies swaying to 
 
54 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 and fro, and in due time apit-jjan, along, sharp-pointed canoe, 
 pulled by a motley set of mortals, stripped to the waist, and 
 displaying a great variety of skins, from light yellow to coal 
 black, darted under our bows, and a burly fellow in a shirt 
 pulled off his straw hat to the captain, and inquired in bad 
 English, "Want-ee ah pilot?" The mate consigned him to 
 the nether regions for a lubber, and inquired what had be- 
 come of his eyes, and if he couldn't tell the Francis anywhere ; 
 the Francis, which "had made thirty-seven voyages to this 
 port, and knew the way better than any black son of a gun 
 who ever put to sea in a bread-trough !" And then the black 
 fellow in a shirt and straw hat was again instructed to go 
 below, or if he preferred, to go and " pilot in the lubberly 
 schooner to windward." The black fellow looked blacker 
 than before, and said something in an unintelligible jargon to 
 the rest, and away they darted for the schooner. 
 
 Meantime the flank of the thunder storm swept towards 
 us, piling up a black line of water, crested with foam, while 
 it approached with a noise like that of distant thunder. It 
 came upon us; the sails fluttered a moment and filled, the 
 yards creaked, the masts bent to the strain, and the little brig 
 dashed rapidly through the hissing water. In the darkness 
 we lost sight of the schooner, and the shore was no longer 
 visi !)](>, but we kept on our way ; the Francis knew the road, 
 and seemed full of life, and eager to reach her old anchorage. 
 
 " Don't she scud !" said the mate, who rubbed his hands in 
 very glee. "If this only holds for ten minutes more, we're 
 in, like a spike !" — and, strange to say, it did hold ; and when 
 it was past we found ourselves close to " Point Arenas," a 
 long narrow spit, partly covered with water, which shuts in 
 the harbor, leaving only a narrow opening for the admission 
 of vessels. The schooner was behind us, but here was a 
 difficulty. The bar had changed since his last trip; the cap- 
 tain was uncertain as to the entrance, and the surf broke 
 heavily under our lee. Excitement of another character pre- 
 
HNHH| | %$%&, ■Hi HHH 
 
 
 ALMOST A SHIPWRECK. 
 
 55 
 
 vailed as we moved slowly on, where a great swell proclaimed 
 the existence of shallows. The captain stood in the bow, 
 and we watched the captain. Suddenly he cried, "Hard 
 a-port!" with startling emphasis, and " Hard a-port !" was 
 echoed by the helmsman, as he swept round the tiller. But 
 it was too late ; the little vessel struck heavily as the wave 
 fell. 
 
 "Thirty-seventh, and last!" muttered the mate between 
 his teeth, as he rushed to the fastenings, and the main-sail 
 came down on the run. "Bound with the boom, my men!" 
 and the boom swung round, just as the brig struck again, 
 with greater force than before, unshipping the rudder, and 
 throwing the helmsman across the deck. " Round again, my 
 men ! lively, or the Francis is lost!" cheered the mate, who 
 seemed invested with superhuman strength and agility ; and 
 as the boom swung round the wave fell, but the Francis did 
 not strike. "Clear she is!" shouted the mate, who leaped 
 upon the companion-way, and waved his hat in triumph ; 
 and turning towards the schooner, " Do that, ye divil, and 
 call yerself a sailor!" There was no doubt about it; the 
 Francis was in before the schooner; and notwithstanding 
 the accident to her rudder, she passed readily to her old an- 
 choring ground, in the midst of a spacious harbor, smooth as 
 a mill-pond. There was musie in the rattling cable as the 
 anchor was run out, and the Francis moved slowly round, 
 with her broadside towards the town. The well was tried, 
 but she had made no water, which was the occasion for a new 
 ebullition of joy on the part of the mate. 
 
 All danger past, we had an opportunity to look about us. 
 We were not more than two cable-lengths from a low sandy 
 shore, upon which was ranged, in a line parallel to the water, 
 a double row of houses, or rather huts, some built of boards, 
 but most of reeds, and all thatched with palm-leaves. Some 
 came down to the water, like sheds, and under one end were 
 drawn up pit-pans and canoes. Larger contrivances for navi- 
 
56 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 gating the San Juan river, resembling canal-boats, were also 
 moored close in shore, and upon each might be seen a num- 
 ber of very long and very black legs, every pair of which 
 was surmounted by a very short white shirt. In the centre 
 of the line of houses, which was no other than the town of 
 San Juan de Nicaragua, was an open space, and in the middle 
 of this was a building larger than the others, but of like con- 
 struction, surrounded by a high fence of canes, and near one 
 end rose a stumpy flag-stall', and from its top hung a dingy 
 piece of bunting, closely resembling the British Union Jack : 
 and this was the custom-house of San Juan, the residence of 
 all the British officials; and the flag was that of the "King 
 of the Mosquitos," the "ally of Great Britain!" 
 
 But of this mighty potentate, and how the British officials 
 came there, more anon. Just opposite us, on the shore, 
 was an object resembling some black monster which had 
 lost its teeth and eyes, and seemed sorry that it had left its 
 kindred at the Novelty Works. It was the boiler of a 
 steamer, which some adventurous Yankees had proposed 
 putting up here, but which, from some defect, had proved use- 
 less. Behind the town rose the dense tropical forest. There 
 were no clearings, no lines of road stretching back into the 
 country; nothing but dense, dark solitudes, where the tapir 
 and the wild boar roamed unmolested; where the painted 
 macaw and the noisy parrot, flying from one giant cebia to 
 another, alone disturbed the silence; and where the niany- 
 hued and numerous serpents of the tropics coiled among the 
 branches of strange trees, Loaded with, (lowers and fragrant 
 with precious gums. The whole scene was unprccedentedly 
 novel and picturesque. There was n strange blending of ob- 
 jects pertaining to the extremes of civilization. The boiler 
 of the steamer was side by side with the graceful canoe, 
 identical with that in which the simple natives of Hispaniola 
 brought fruits to Columbus ; and men in stiff European cos- 
 tumes were seen passing among others, whose dark, naked 
 

 wmmm 
 
 w BMEjMi3E ffl5m& 5R &&Bm 
 
 ti&Zsrw^y&^'^^&'&^'&^t&fiS 
 
 A POMPOUS OFFICIAL. 
 
 57 
 
 bodies, protected only at the loins, indicated their descent 
 from the aborigines who had disputed the possession of the 
 soil with the mailed followers of Cordova, and made vain 
 propitiations to the symbolical sun to assist them against 
 their enemies. Here they were, unknowing and careless 
 alike of Cordova or the sun, and ready to load themselves 
 like brutes, in order to earn a sixpence with which to get 
 drunk that night, in concert with the monotonous twanging 
 of a two-stringed guitar ! 
 
 Our anchor was hardly down before a canoe came along- 
 side, containing as variegated an assortment of passengers as 
 can well be conceived. Among them were the officers of the 
 port, whose importance was made manifest from the nume- 
 rous and unnecessary orders they gave to the oarsmen, and 
 the prodigious bustle they made in getting up the side. 
 They looked inquiringly at the bright silken flag which one 
 of the party held in his hands, and which looked brighter 
 than ever under the rays of the setting sun. The eagles on 
 the caps of the party were also objects which attracted many 
 inquiring glances; and directly the captain was withdrawn 
 into a corner, and asked the significance of all this. The 
 answer seemed to diminish the importance of the 'officials 
 materially, and one approached, holding his sombrero reve- 
 rently in his hand, and said that "Her Britannic Majesty's 
 
 Consul-General in Mosquitia, Mr. C , was now resident 
 
 in the town, and that he should do himself the honor to 
 announce our arrival immediately, and hoped Ave had had a 
 pleasant voyage, and that we would avail ourselves of his 
 humble services;" to all of which gracious responses were 
 given, together with a drop of brandy, which last did not 
 seem at all unacceptable. I had warm letters of introduction 
 to several of the leading inhabitants of San Juan, and accord- 
 ingly began to make inquiries as to their whereabouts of a 
 respectable looking negro, who was amongst the visiting party. 
 
 To my first question, as to whether Mr. S S was 
 
 8 
 
VH 
 
 58 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 then m town, the colored gentleman uncovered his head, 
 bowed low, arid said the humble individual named was be- 
 fore me. I also uncovered myself, bowed equally low, and 
 assured him I was happy to make his acquaintance, deliver- 
 ing my letter at the same time with all the grace possible 
 under the circumstances. 
 
 lie glanced over its contents, took off his hat again, and 
 bowed lower than before. Not to be behindhand in polite- 
 ness, I went through the same performance, which was re- 
 sponded to by a genuflection absolutely beyond my power 
 to undertake, without risk of a dislocation ; so I resigned the 
 contest, and gave in "dead beat," much to the entertain- 
 ment of the Irish mate, who was not deficient in the natural 
 antipathy of his race towards the negro. Ben, my colored 
 servant, next received a welcome not less cordial than my 
 own; and my new acquaintance " was glad to inform me, 
 that fortunately there was a new house under his charge, 
 which was then vacant, and that he was happy in putting it 
 at my disposal." The happiness was worth exactly eight 
 dollars, as I discovered by a bill which was presented to me 
 four days thereafter, as we were on the point of leaving for 
 the interior; and which, considering that the usual rent of 
 houses here is from four to live dollars per month, was pro- 
 bably intended to include pay for the genuflection^ on ship- 
 board. We were impatient to land, and could not wait for 
 the yawl to be hoisted over the sick; ; so we crowded our- 
 selves into the canoe of the "Harbor Master," and went on 
 shore. 
 
 The population of the town was all there, many-hued and 
 fantastically attired. The dress of the urchins from twelve 
 and fourteen downwards, consisted generally of a straw hat 
 and a cigar, the latter sometimes unlighted and stuck behind 
 the ear, but oftener lighted and stuck in the mouth; a costume 
 
 sufficiently airy and picturesque, and, as B observed, 
 
 " excessively cheap." 
 

 INHABITANTS OF SAN JUAN. 59 
 
 Most of the women had a simple white or flowered skirt 
 {nagua) fastened above the hips, witli a " <juipil" or sort of 
 large Vandyke, with holes, through which the arms were 
 passed, and which hung loosely down over the breast. In 
 some cases the guipil was rather short, and exposed a dark 
 strip of skin from one to four inches wide, which the 
 wanton wind often made much broader. It was very clear 
 that false hips and other civilized contrivances had not 
 reached here, and it was equally clear that they were not 
 needed to give fullness to the female figures which we saw 
 around us. All the women had their hair braided in two 
 long locks which hung down behind, and which gave them 
 a school-girly look quite out of keeping with the cool, delib- 
 erate manner in which they puffed their cigars, occasionally 
 forcing the smoke in jets from their nostrils. Their feet 
 were innocent of stockings, but the more fashionable ladies 
 wore silk or satin slippers, which (it is hoped our scrutiny 
 was not indelicately close) were quite as likely to be soiled on 
 the inside as the out. A number had gaudy-colored rebosos 
 thrown over their heads, and altogether, the entire group, 
 with an advance-guard of wolfish, sullen-looking curs, was 
 strikingly novel, and not a little picturesque. We leaped 
 ashore upon the yielding sand with a delight known only to 
 the voyager who has been penned up for a month in a small, 
 uncomfortable vessel, and without further ceremony passed 
 through the crowd of gazers, and started down the principal 
 avenue, which, as we learned, had been called " King street" 
 since the English usurpation. The doors of the various 
 queer-looking little houses were all open, and in all of them 
 might be seen hammocks suspended between the front and 
 back entrances, so as to catch the passing current of air. In 
 some of these, reclining in attitudes suggestive of most 
 intense laziness, were swarthy figures of men, whose consti- 
 tutional apathy not even the unwonted occurrence of the 
 arrival, at the same moment, of two ships could disturb. The 
 
60 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 women, it is needless to say, were all on the beach, except a 
 few decrepit old dames, who gazed at us from the door-ways. 
 Passing through the town, we entered the forest, followed by 
 a train of boys and some ill-looking, grown-up vagabonds. 
 The path led to a beautiful lagoon, fenced in by a bank of 
 verdure, upon the edges of which were a number of women, 
 naked to the waist, who had not yet heard the news; they 
 were washing, an operation quite different from that of our 
 own country, and which consisted in dipping the clothes in 
 the water, placing them on the bottom of an old canoe, and 
 beating them violently with clubs. Visions of buttonless 
 shirts rose up incontinently in long perspective, as we turned 
 down a narrow path which led along the shores of the lagoon, 
 and invited us to the cool, deep shades of the forest. A flock 
 of noisy paroquets were fluttering above us, and strange fruits 
 and flowers appeared on all sides. We had not gone far 
 before there was an odor of musk, and directly a plunge in 
 the water. We stopped short, but one of the urchins waved 
 his hand contemptuously, and said "Lagartos!" And sure 
 enough, glancing through the bushes, we saw two or three 
 monstrous alligators slowly propelling themselves through 
 the water. "Devils in an earthly paradise!" muttered 
 
 B , who dropped into the rear. The urchins noticed 
 
 our surprise, and by way of comfort, a little naked rascal in 
 advance observed, looking suspiciously around at the same 
 time, " Muchas culebras aqui" — "Many snakes here!" This 
 interesting piece of intelligence opened conversation, and we 
 were not long in ascertaining that but a few days previously, 
 two men had been bitten by snakes, and had died in frightful 
 torments. It was soon concluded that we had gone far 
 enough, and that we had better defer our walk in the woods 
 to another day. It is scarcely necessary to observe, that it 
 was never resumed. 
 
 Returning, we met my colored friend, who informed me 
 that there was a quantity of hides stored in the house selected 
 

 MILLENNIAL ANTICIPATIONS. 
 
 61 
 
 for my accommodation, but that he would have them removed 
 that evening, and the house ready for our reception in the 
 morning. Regarding ourselves as guests, whom it became 
 to assent to whatever suggestion our host might make, we 
 answered him that the arrangement was perfectly satisfactory, 
 that we could sleep that night comfortably on board the 
 vessel — a terrible fib, by the way, for we knew better — and 
 thai he might take his time in making such provision for us 
 as he thought proper. We then sauntered through the 
 town, looking into the door-ways, catching occasional glimpses 
 of the domestic economy of the inhabitants, and admiring 
 not a little the perfect equality and general good understand- 
 ing which existed between the pigs, babies, dogs, cats, and 
 chickens. The pigs gravely took pieces of tortillas from the 
 mouths of the babies, and the babies as gravely took other 
 
 pieces away from the pigs. B observed that this was 
 
 as near an approach to those millennial days when the lion 
 and the lamb should lie down together as we should probably 
 live to see, and suggested that a particular " note" should be 
 made of it for the comfort of Father Miller and the Second- 
 Advent Saints in general. There was one house in which 
 we noticed a row of shelves containing sundry articles of 
 merchandise, among which long-necked bottles of various 
 pleasant hues were most conspicuous, and in front of which 
 was a rude counter, behind which again was a short lady of 
 considerably lighter complexion than the average, to whom 
 our colored friend tipped his hat gallantly, informing us at 
 the same time that this was the " Maison de Commerce de 
 Viscomte A. dc B B et Co. ;" the " Et Co." consist- 
 ing of the Yiscomte's wife, two sons, and five daughters, 
 whose names all appeared in full in the Viscomte's circulars. 
 Had we been told that here was the residence of some cazique 
 with an unpronounceable name, we might have thought the 
 thing in keeping, and passed on without ceremony; but a 
 Viscomte was not to be treated so lightly, and we turned 
 
62 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 and bowed profoundly to the short lady behind the counter, 
 who rose and courtesied with equal profundity. 
 
 We reached the beach just as the sun was setting, where 
 we found our mate with the yawl : " An' it bates any city 
 ye've seen, ['11 be bound! It's pier number one, is this 
 blessed spat of dirt where ye are just now; may be ye don't 
 know it ! And yonder hen-coop is the custom-house, be sure ! 
 and that dirty clout is the Nagur King's flag, bad luck to it! 
 and it's meself who expects to live to see the stripes and forty 
 stars to back 'em, (divil a one less!) wavin' here! Hurrah 
 for Old Zack!— an' it's him that can do it !" 
 
 It was clear that our mate, who had not looked at a bottle 
 during the whole voyage, thought a "d'hrap" necessary to 
 neutralize the miasma of San Juan. 
 
 "Perhaps ye know what ye'r laughing at, my dark boy; 
 an' it's meself that'll be afther givin' ye a taste of the way 
 we Yankees do the thing, savin' the presence of his honor 
 here," said the mate, dashing his hat on the ground, and 
 advancing a step toward my new acquaintance, who recoiled 
 in evident alarm. We interposed, and the mate cooled at 
 once, and shook hands cordially with the colored gentleman, 
 although he spoiled the amende by immediately going to the 
 water's brink and carefully washing his palms. 
 
 While this scene was transpiring, a ghostly-looking indi- 
 vidual, wan with numberless fevers, approached us. Ee 
 was dressed in white, wore a jacket and a glazed cap, and 
 upon the latter, in gilded capitals, we read " Police." He 
 took off his cap, bowed low, for he was used to it, and said 
 that Her Britannic Majesty's Consul General presented his 
 respects to the gentlemen, regretted that, being confined to 
 his house by bodily infirmity, he could not wait on them in 
 person, and hoped that under the circumstances the gentle- 
 men would do him the favor to call upon him. 
 
 We responded by following the lead of the wan policeman 
 (there was only one other, the rest had run away,) who 
 

 THE BRITISH CONSULATE. 63 
 
 opened a wicket leading within the cane enclosure of the 
 custom-house, entered that building, and ascending a rough, 
 narrow, and ricketty flight of stairs, we were ushered into 
 what at home would be called a shocking bad garret, but 
 which were the apartments of Her Britannic Majesty's Consul 
 General. A long table stood in the centre, and a couple of 
 candles flared in the breeze that came in at the unglazed 
 openings at either end of the apartment, giving a dim inter- 
 mittent light, by means of which, however, we succeeded in 
 
 discovering Mr. C , the Consul General. He was reclining 
 
 on a rude settee, and rose with difficulty to welcome us. He 
 apologized for his rough quarters, betraying by his pronun- 
 ciation that his youth at least had been passed among the 
 haunted glens of Scotland. He had formerly been a member 
 of Parliament, and had been nearly a year on this coast, in a 
 service clearly little congenial to his feelings, and far from 
 being in accordance with his notions of honor and justice. 
 We found him intelligent and agreeable, and as free from 
 prejudices as a Briton could be, without ceasing to be a Briton 
 and a Scot. 
 
 The evening passed pleasantly, ("barring" the mosquitos,) 
 and though we were told of scorpions, which are often found 
 when people turn down their blankets, and of numerous 
 lizards, which insinuate themselves over night in one's boots, 
 we were too glad to get on shore to be much alarmed by t he 
 recital. Upon leaving, we were pressed to come every day 
 to the consulate to dine; for we were assured, and with truth, 
 that it was impossible to procure a reasonably decent meal 
 elsewhere in the town. The Nicaraguans at the fort, above, 
 it was asserted, had bought up all the vegetables and edibles 
 intended for San Juan, having determined to starve the hated 
 English out, and there was not a foot of cultivated ground 
 within fifty miles ; consequently the market was poorly sup- 
 plied, except with ship provisions, and of these we had had 
 quite enough. This was far from being comfortable, for we 
 
04 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATI V E. 
 
 had expected to find at San Juan a profusion of all the pro- 
 ductions of the tropics, concerning which travellers had 
 written so enthusiastically ; to be put, therefore, on allow- 
 ances of ship-biscuit and salt pork, was too much to permit 
 
 any consideration of delicacy, so wc accepted Mr. G 's 
 
 generous offer, returning on board to be phlebotomized 
 by a horde of barbarous mosquitos, and to get up next 
 morning feverish and unrefreshed, and only prevented from 
 appealing to the medicine-chest by the happy consciousness 
 that we were near the land. 
 
 The cook's nondescript mess to which we had been treated 
 every morning since we left New York, and which had been 
 called by way of courtesy "breakfast," was soon disposed of, 
 and we went on shore, where our colored friend received us 
 with a low bow, informing us at the same time that our house 
 was ready. He led the way to a building not far distant 
 from the " Maison de Commerce," opening upon aristocratic 
 King street. It was constructed of rough boards, and was 
 elevated on posts, so that everybody who entered had to take 
 a short run and Hying leap, and was fortunate if he did not 
 miss his aim and bark his shins in the attempt. It was satis- 
 factory to know that the structure was comparatively new, 
 and that the colonies of scorpions, lizards, house-snakes, 
 cockroaches, and the other numerous, nameless, and nonde- 
 script vermin which flourish here, had not had time to mul- 
 tiply to any considerable extent. And though there was a 
 large pile of tobacco in bales in one corner, with no other 
 object movable or immovable in the room, the novelty of 
 the thing was enough to compensate for all deficiencies, and 
 we ordered our baggage to be at once brought to the house. 
 Bv way, doubtless, of indicating the capacity of the structure, 
 our colored friend told us that this had been the head-quarters 
 of a party of Americans bound for California for the space 
 of six weeks, and that forty of the number had contrived to 
 quarter here ; a new and practical illustration of the indefi- 
 
^^^H &^#;$>i<t H^^^H^^I 
 
 '&ij&t%t& i Actflf&?ft&AM?Je?t 
 
 OUR HOUSE AT SAN J TAX. 
 
 65 
 
 nite compressibility of Yankee matter, which surpassed all 
 our previous conceptions. Our friend had provided for us 
 in other ways, and had engaged a place where we might 
 obtain our breakfasts, and proposed to introduce us to the 
 
 "our house" at s a n j u a n . 
 
 family which was to furnish that important meal. The 
 house was close by, and we were collectively and individu- 
 ally presented to Monsieur S , who had been a grenadier 
 
 under Napoleon, had served in numerous campaigns, had 
 been in many bloody battles, and had probably escaped being 
 shot because he was too thin to be hit. We were also intro- 
 duced to the spouse of Monsieu'r S , who was the very 
 
 reverse of her lord, and who gave us a very good breakfast 
 and superb chocolate, for which we paid only a dollar each 
 per day. It was a blessed thing for our exchequer that we 
 didn't dine, sup, and lodge there ! At the same place break- 
 fasted a couple of Spanish gentlemen, who had come out in 
 the schooner, with a valuable cargo of goods for the interior. 
 Our hostess certainly could not have had the heart to charge 
 them a dollar for breakfast, for they had heard of revolutions 
 and a terrible civil war in Nicaragua, and had been fright - 
 
-fe:.Y ; . 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 ened out of their appetites. A "bad speculation" at the best 
 was before them, perhaps pecuniary ruin. We pitied them, 
 but our appetites did not suffer from sympathy. 
 
 The day was passed in receiving visits of ceremony, 
 arranging our new quarters, rigging hammocks, (which we 
 obtained, at but little more than twice their actual value, al 
 the "Maison de" Commerce of the Viscomte,) and dragging to 
 light and air our mildewed wardrobes. We thought of con- 
 signing our soiled linen to the women at the lagoon; but the 
 sturdy blows of their clubs still sounded in our ears, and we 
 trusted to the future; but the future brought rough stones in 
 place of the smooth canoe ! 
 
 That night we passed comfortably in our new quarters, 
 interrupted only by various droppings from the roof, which 
 the active fancies of sundry members of the party converted 
 into scorpions and other noxious insects. All slept, not- 
 withstanding, until broad daylight next morning, when every 
 one was roused by the firing of guns, and a great noise of 
 voices, apparently in high altercation, combined with the 
 cackling of hens, the barking of dogs, and the squealing of 
 pigs ; a noise unprecedented for the variety of its constituent 
 sounds. 
 
 " A revolution, by Jove !" exclaimed M , whose brain 
 
 was full of the news from the interior; "it has got here 
 already !" 
 
 The doors were nevertheless thrown open, and every un- 
 kempt head was thrust out to discover the cause of the 
 tumult. The scene that presented itself passes description. 
 There was a mingled mass of men, women, and children, 
 some driving pigs and poultry, others flourishing sticks ; here 
 a woman with a pig under one arm and a pair of chickens in 
 each hand ; there an urchin gravely endeavoring to carry a 
 long-nosed porker, nearly as large as himself, and twice as 
 noisy ; there a busy party, forming a cordon around a mother 
 pig with a large family, and the whole excited, swaying. 
 
«8 EKnBn afiHB VBWlPB 
 
 POLICY AND THE POLICE. 
 
 67 
 
 screaming mass retreating before the two policemen in white, 
 each bearing a sword, a pistol, and a formidable looking 
 blunderbuss. 
 
 "They are driving out the poor people," said M ; " it 
 
 is quite too bad !" 
 
 But the manner in which two or three old ladies flourished 
 their sticks in the faces of our wan friend and his companion, 
 betokened, I thought, anything but bodily fear. Still, the 
 whole affair was a mystery ; and when the crowd stopped 
 short before our doors, and every dark visage, in which anger 
 and supplication were strangely mingled, was turned towards 
 us, each individual vociferating the while, at the top of his 
 voice, we were puzzled beyond measure. " Death to the 
 English !" was about all we could gather, until the wan po- 
 liceman came up and explained, under a torrent of vitupera- 
 tion, that he and his companion were merely carrying into 
 effect a wholesome regulation which Her Majesty's Consul 
 General had promulgated, to the effect that the inhabitants of 
 San Juan (which he called Greytown) should no longer allow 
 the pigs and poultry to roam at large, but should keep them 
 securely " cooped and penned," under penalty of having 
 them shot by Her Majesty's servants; and as the aforesaid 
 pigs and poultrv hud roamed at their will since the time 
 "the memory of man runneth not back thereto," and as 
 there were neither coops nor pens, it was very clear that the 
 wholesome regulation could be but partially complied with. 
 A stout mulatto, behind the policeman, carried a pig and 
 several fowls, which had evidently met a recent and violent 
 end; and we had strong misgivings as to the manner in 
 which the various small porkers and chickens which we had 
 encountered at the consul's table had been procured. 
 
 The pale policeman grew pathetic, and was almost moved 
 to tears when he said that, while in the performance of his 
 duty, he was assailed as we saw, and that all his explanations 
 were unregarded, and he was disposed to do as his compau- 
 
68 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 ions had done — run away, and leave the town to the do- 
 minion of the pigs and chickens. 
 
 The crowd, which had been comparatively quiet during 
 this recital, now broke out in reply, and gathering counte- 
 nance from the presence of the Americans, fairly hustled the 
 policemen into the middle of the street, and might have 
 treated them to a cold bath in the harbor, had they not been 
 recalled by the voice of the Viscomte, who mounted a block 
 and declaimed furiously, in mingled Spanish and French, 
 against the "perfidious English," and talked of natural and 
 municipal rights in a strain quite edifying, and eminently 
 French. But as the Viscomte had been instrumental in 
 bringing the English there, he did not get much of our sym- 
 pathy, lie had lost a pet pig that morning, which gave pith 
 to his speech ; and we determined to pay our particular re- 
 spects to it that evening at the consul's. 
 
 To the appeals made to us directly, we were, as became us, 
 diplomatically evasive ; but the people were easily satisfied, 
 and late that night we were treated to a serenade, the pauses 
 of which were filled in with, "Vivan los Americanos del 
 Norte ; and next day the news was current that six American 
 vessels of Avar were on their way to San Juan to drive out 
 the English, whose effective force consisted of the wan police- 
 man and his equally wan companion! And the consul him- 
 self did us the honor to hope that we had said nothing to 
 encourage the poor people in their perversity, for he almost 
 despaired of making them respectable citizens ! They couldn't 
 discern, he was sorry to say, their own best interests. We 
 might have suggested to him that circumstances here 
 were quite different from those which surrounded the little 
 towns of Scotland, and that which might be "good for the 
 people" in one instance, might be eminently out of place in 
 another ; but then it was none of our business. 
 
 During the day we paid a visit to the other side of the 
 harbor, where some Mosquito Indians, who came down the 
 

 
 
 MOSQUITO INDIANS. 
 
 «9 
 
 coast to strike turtle, had taken up their temporary residence. 
 They were the most squalid wretches imaginable, and their 
 huts consisted of a few poles set in a slanting direction, upon 
 which was loosely thrown a quantity of palm leaves. The 
 
 ig, 
 
 HUT OF MOSQUITO INDIANS. 
 
 sides were open, and altogether the structure must have cost 
 fifteen minutes' labor. Under this shelter crowded a variety 
 of half-naked figures, begrimed with dirt, their faces void of 
 expression, and altogether brutish. They stared at us va- 
 cantly, and then resumed their meal, which consisted of a 
 portion of the flesh of the alligator and the manitus, chopped 
 in large pieces and thrown into the fire until the outer por- 
 tions were completely charred. These were devoured with- 
 out salt, and with a wolfish greediness which was horrible to 
 behold. At a little distance, away from the stench and filth, 
 the huts, Avith the groups beneath and around them, were 
 really picturesque objects. 
 
 One hut had been vacated for the moment ; against it the 
 fishing rods and spears of its occupants were resting, and in 
 front a canoe was drawn up ; this attracted our particular 
 notice, and I had a sketch made of it on the spot. A?, we 
 
70 
 
 NIC ARA ( i U A — NARRATIVE. 
 
 paddled along the shore, we saw many thatched huts in cool, 
 leafy arbors, surrounded by spots of bare, hard ground, fleck- 
 ered with the sunlight, which danced in mazes as the wind 
 waved the branches above. Around them were dark, naked 
 figures, and before them were light canoes, drawn close to 
 the bank, filling out the foreground of pictures such as 
 we had imagined in reading the quaint recitals of the early 
 voyagers, and the effects of which were heightened by the 
 parrots and macaws, fluttering their bright wings on the 
 roofs of the huts, and deafening the spectator with their 
 shrill voices. Occasionally a tame monkey was seen swing- 
 ing by his tail from the branches of the trees, and making 
 grimaces at us as we passed. 
 
 The habits of the natives were unchanged in the space of 
 three hundred years ; their dwellings were the same ; the 
 scenes we gazed upon were counterparts of those which the 
 Discoverers had witnessed. Eternal summer reigned above 
 them; their wants were few and simple, and profuse nature 
 supplied them in abundance with all the necessaries of exist- 
 ence. They little thought that the party of strangers, gliding 
 silently before them, were there to prepare the way for the 
 clanging steamer, and that the great world without was medi- 
 tating the Titanic enterprise of laying open their primeval 
 solitudes, grading down their hills, and opening, from one 
 great ocean to the other, a gigantic canal, upon which the 
 navies of the world might pass, laden with the treasures of 
 two hemispheres ! 
 
g^^^^^^^^^^am^m^ HHBBB 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 THE PORT OK SAN JCJAN DE NICARAGUA; ITS POSITION J CLIMATE; POPULA- 
 TION ; EDIFICES OF ITS INHABITANTS J ITS INSECTS J TnE NIOUA ; THE SCOR- 
 PION, ETC.) ITS EXPORTS AND IMPORTS J POLITICAL CONDITION J IMPORTANCE. 
 
 PRESENT AND PROSPECTIVE; SEIZURE BY THE ENGLISH, ETC. MOUTH OF THE 
 
 RIVER SAN JUAN — THE COLORADO MOUTn THE TAURO NAVIGATION OF THE 
 
 RIVER BONGOS AND PIRAGUAS LOS MARINEROS DISCOVERY AND EARLY 
 
 HISTORY OF THE PORT OF SAN JUAN. 
 
 The Port of San Juan derives its principal importance 
 from the tact that it is the only possible eastern terminus for 
 the proposed grand inter-oceanic canal, through the territo- 
 ries of Nicaragua, via the river San Juan and Lake Nica- 
 ragua ; and from the further circumstance of being the only 
 available port of Nicaragua upon the Atlantic. The harbor 
 is not large, yet it is altogether better and more spacious 
 than is generally supposed. The entrance is easy, and 
 vessels of the largest class find little difficulty in passing the 
 mouth, and obtaining within a safe and commodious anchor- 
 age. It has been represented that, in consequence of the 
 peculiar make of the land, it is extremely difficult to be 
 found. This is true to a certain extent; but although the 
 coast in the immediate vicinity is low, yet a short distance 
 back the land is high and marked, and cannot be mistaken. 
 With proper charts, correct sketches of the coasts, and with 
 a lighthouse on Point Arenas, every difficulty would be ob- 
 viated. This is evident even to the unprofessional observer. 
 The harbor is probably adequate to every purpose connected 
 with the proposed canal. 
 
HB 
 
 
 \ TC A HAG UA — N4 H R A T 1 V K . 
 
 The town of San Juan consists (June, 1850) of fifty or 
 sixty palm thatched houses, or rather huts, arranged with 
 some degree of regularit}-, upon the south-western shore of 
 the harbor. It is supported entirely by the trade carried on 
 through it; and its inhabitants are dependent upon the sup- 
 plies brought down from the interior, or furnished from 
 trading vessels, for the means of subsistence. There are no 
 eultivated lands in the vicinity, and excepting the narrow 
 space occupied by the town, and a small number of acres 
 on the island opposite, where a few cattle find pasturage, the 
 primitive forest is unbroken by clearings of any description. 
 The ground upon which the town is built is sandy, and 
 although elevated but a few feet above the water, is, never- 
 theless, dry. The country all around it is low, and is a short 
 distance back from the shore really marshy, interspersed 
 with numerous lagoons. After penetrating a number of 
 miles into the interior, however, higher land is found, with a 
 soil adapted for every purpose of cultivation. 
 
 Although the climate of San Juan is warm and damp, it 
 is exempt from the fevers and epidemics which prevail in 
 most places similarly situated, upon the shores of the Gulf of 
 Mexico and Caribbean Sea. I could not learn that any cases 
 of the yellow fever, or vomito, have ever occurred here ; and 
 when the cholera, in 1837, (five years after the period of its 
 ravages in the United States,) devastated the interior, and 
 almost depopulated the ports to the northward and south- 
 \\ a rd, San Juan entirely escaped its visitations. It may safely 
 be said that there are few ports, if any, under the tropics of 
 equal salubrity. The nature of the soil, the fact that the 
 malaria of the coast is constantly swept back by the north- 
 east trades, and that good water may be obtained in abun- 
 dance, at a depth of a few feet below the surface, no doubt 
 contribute to this result. It is, however, a singular circum- 
 stance, vouched for by the older residents of San Juan, that 
 the island or opposite shore of the harbor, not more than half 
 
'Jf^RJftJ^v 
 
 .^^."^".^"."tZAN* ■ 
 
 
 CLIMATE OF SAN JUAN' — POPULATION. 
 
 73 
 
 a mile distant, and which, from the greater depth of water 
 immediately fronting it, and other circumstances, seems 
 to be the best site for a town, is fatal to those who may 
 attempt to occupy it. A settlement Avas commenced there a 
 number of years ago, but the inhabitants were decimated 
 within the first two months ; after which the rest removed to 
 the other shore. The same cause, it is said, led to the aban- 
 donment of the military works which the Spaniards had 
 erected there before the revolt of the colonics. The cause of 
 this difference is not apparent, but no doubt as to the foot 
 sec ins to exist among the inhabitants. Foreigners at San 
 Juan, however, by observing ordinary and proper precau- 
 tions, need not, I am convinced, form exceptions to the gen- 
 eral good health of the native inhabitants. 
 
 The temperature of San Juan varies a little with the dif- 
 ferent seasons of the year, but is generally pleasant, differing 
 not much from that of New York in the month of July. 
 The range of the thermometer is not, however, so great as it 
 is with us during that month. During my stay in June, 1849, 
 and upon my return in the same month, in 1850, the range 
 was from 71 J of Fahrenheit at sunrise, to 85° at the hottest 
 hour of the day. In the evening there is usually a pleasant 
 and invigorating se;i-breeze. 
 
 The population of the town does not exceed three hundred, 
 having considerably diminished since the English usurpation. 
 Besides what may be called the native inhabitants, and who 
 exhibit the same characteristics in language, habits, and cus- 
 toms with the lower classes in the interior of the state, there 
 are a few foreigners, and some Creoles of pure stock, who 
 reside here as agents, or consignees of mercantile houses, 
 and as commission dealers. There are also the English au- 
 thorities, consisting chiefly of negroes from Jamaica. The 
 inhabitants, therefore, exhibit every variety of race and com- 
 plexion. Whites, Indians, negroes, mestizos, and sambos, — 
 black, brown, yellow, and fair, — all mingle together with the 
 10 
 
74 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVK. 
 
 utmost freedom, and in total disregard of those convention- 
 alities which are founded on caste. In what might be called 
 the best families, if it were possible to institute comparisons 
 on the wrong side of zero, it is no uncommon thing to find 
 three and four shades of complexion, from which it may be 
 inferred that the social relations are very lax. This is un for- 
 tunately the fact; and the examples which have been set 
 upon this coast in times past, by Jamaica traders, have not 
 had the effect of improving morals. There is neither church 
 nor school-house in San Juan, nor indeed in the whole of 
 what the English facetiously call the "Mosquito Kingdom." 
 Before the seizure, San Juan was a curacy, dependent upon 
 the Diocess of Nicaragua, but subsequently to that event it 
 was vacated, in consequence of the obstacles thrown in the 
 way of its continuance by the English officials, whose high 
 sense of Christian duty would not permit them to tolerate 
 anything but the English Church, which is, I believe, the 
 established religion throughout the dominions of "His Mos- 
 quito Majesty!" Occasionally a priest, in his black robes, is 
 seen flitting about the town ; but unless it is desired to find 
 out the residence of the prettiest of the nut-brown seiioritas, 
 it is not always prudent to inquire too closely into his move- 
 ments. 
 
 The dwellings of the inhabitants, as already intimated, are 
 of the rudest and most primitive description, and make no 
 approach to what, in the United States, would be regarded 
 as respectable out-houses. They are, in fact, mere thatched 
 sheds, roughly boarded up and floored, or made of a kind of 
 wicker work of canes, sometimes plastered over with mud. 
 The furniture, which seldom consists of more than a ham- 
 mock, a high table, a few chairs, and a bed, is entirely in 
 keeping with the edifices. Yet, mean and uninviting as these 
 structures are, they answer a very good purpose in a climate 
 where anything beyond a roof to keep off the sun and the 
 rain may almost be regarded as a superfluity. The heavy thatch 
 

 HOUS ES — I NSECTS — NIGUAS. 
 
 75 
 
 of palm leaves or long grass is an effectual protection against 
 these, and though it furnishes excellent quarters for scor- 
 pions, small serpents, and other pleasant colonists, yet these 
 soon cease to excite apprehension, and, with the mice and 
 cockroaches, sink into common-places. The sting of the do- 
 mestic scorpion, so far as I am able to learn of its effects from 
 others, never having myself experienced it, is not much 
 worse than that of a wasp or hornet, and seldom produces 
 any serious result. The alacran del monte, scorpion of the 
 forest, or wild scorpion, is more to be dreaded; its sting 
 sometimes induces fever, causing the tongue to swell so as to 
 render utterance difficult, or impossible. This latter never 
 inflicts its sting unless pressed upon, or accidentally dis- 
 turbed hy some part of the person. It is quite as common 
 in San Juan as in any part of the country ; being brought 
 there probably with the Brazil wood, the knots and cre- 
 vices of which afford it an excellent lodgment. And, while 
 upon insects, I may mention a kind of a flea, called ni- 
 gua or chigoe by tin' Spaniards, and "jigger" by the West 
 Indian English, which generally attacks the feet, working its 
 way, without being felt, beneath the skin, and there depositing 
 its eggs. A small sack speedily forms around these, which 
 constantly increases in size, first creating an itching sensation, 
 and afterwards, unless removed, becoming painful. When 
 small, it may be extracted without difficulty, but when 
 larger, the operation is delicate and often painful ; for if the 
 sack is broken, a bad ulcer, extremely liable to inflammation, 
 and sometimes affecting the entire foot and leg, is a probable 
 result. The best surgeon in these cases is an Indian boy, 
 who always performs the operation skillfully, and con- 
 siders a medio (sixpence) a capital fee for his services. He 
 has a sharp eye for " las niguas," and will frequently detect 
 them before they are seen or felt by the strangers in whose 
 feet they are burrowing. It is well to submit one's pedal 
 extremities to his criticism as often as once every three days, 
 
76 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 while sojourning in San Juan, where this insect is more com- 
 mon than anywhere else in Central America. When to this 
 digression on insects and reptiles, I have added that the har- 
 bor is infested by sharks, and that alligators are far from rare 
 both there and in the lagunas near the town, the catalogue of 
 things annoying and disagreeable to be encountered here is 
 nearly complete. But after all, the inconvenience or danger 
 from such sources is chiefly imaginary, and exists more in 
 anticipation than in reality. 
 
 From what has been said it will be seen that San Juan has 
 no resources of its own, and derives its present importance 
 solely from the trade which is carried on through it with the 
 interior. A considerable part of the exports and imports of 
 Nicaragua passes here. The exports are indigo, Brazil wood, 
 hides, and bullion, and the imports manufactured goods of 
 every description, suitable for general use. The indigo and 
 bullion go, in great part, to England, by the British "West 
 Indian line of steamers, which touches here monthly, and 
 which has already nearly monopolized the carrying of those 
 articles of high value but small bulk, upon which it is de- 
 sirable to realize quick returns. The Brazilwood and hides, 
 on the other hand, pass chiefly to the United States and 
 Jamaica. By far the greater proportion of the carrying- 
 trade is in the hands of Americans, conducted through native 
 bouses, and through travelling agents in the interior: and 
 considerably more than two-thirds of the tonnage entering 
 the port is American. An Italian vessel comes once or 
 twice a-year, and a couple of French vessels occasionally, as 
 also some nondescript coasters, bearing the New Granadian 
 or Venezuelan flags. A portion of the trade of Costa Rica, 
 via the rivers San Juan and Serapiqui, is now carried on 
 through this port. There arc no means of ascertaining its 
 value, nor that of the general commerce of San Juan, inas- 
 much as no regular tables have been kept at the Custom 
 House. Previous to the seizure of the port by the English, 
 
■ m— — 1 RHnHHlBn 
 
 ■■■■I 
 
 jaB9 Fw c BS ^ M ra i p l lP l S il 
 
 TRADE — EXPORTS AXD IMPORTS. 
 
 77 
 
 in 1848, the duties collected here by the Nicaraguan govern- 
 ment amounted to about $100,000 per annum ; and as the 
 rate of imposts was about 20 per cent., the value of the im- 
 ports may be approximately calculated at nearly §500,000. 
 Since the English usurpation, the trade has seriously dimin- 
 ished, in consequence of the depression and uncertainty 
 which it has created in the interior, and which have induced 
 many of the native merchants to contract their business. 
 The additional duties levied by the usurping authorities have 
 also contributed to the same results. They have imposed an 
 import and export duty of 2$ per cent, ad valorem, and made 
 other onerous restrictions on commerce. Under these, they 
 have nevertheless lately funned out the customs at $10,000 
 per annum, which, as this is apart from the cost of collection, 
 implies a trade of at least $300,000.' The actual trade of 
 the port may now be roughly estimated at $100,000, not allow- 
 ing for the increase which has already followed the general 
 commercial activity induced by the California movement, nor 
 for the direct influences of the partial opening of the Nica- 
 ragua route of transit, and the consequent direction of public 
 attention and individual enterprise to that portion of the 
 Central American Isthmus. As the trade of Nicaragua, by 
 way of this port must pass through the river San Juan, the 
 Nicaraguan Customs Establishment has been fixed at the old 
 Fort of San Carlos, at the head of the river, on the lake. 
 The average rate of duty exacted under the Nicaraguan 
 tariff, is about 21 per cent, ad valorem, 2 which, added to the 
 
 1 Since the above was written, the collection of customs at Sua Juan, 
 from motives of policy, has been suspended, but not permanently aban- 
 doned, by the British Government. 
 
 2 It should be mentioned, however, that although the Nicaraguan tariff 
 is nominally 21 per cent, ad valorem, yet as one half of the amount of 
 duties may be paid in Government vales, or notes, which range from ten 
 to sixty per cent, in value, according to their class and date, it is practi- 
 cally not more than 15 per cent. 
 
■btt 
 
 7b 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 British impositions at San Juan, makes the total duty to be 
 paid on articles passing into the interior about 24 per cent. 
 
 AY hen the political questions connected with British 
 aggressions in Nicaragua shall have been satisfactorily and 
 permanently adjusted, and the projected canal really com- 
 menced, this port will become one of the first importance, if 
 not the most important, on the continent. Its prospective 
 value can hardly be estimated ; for apart from its position in 
 respect to the proposed work, it is the only Atlantic port of 
 one of the finest countries under the tropics, possessing inex- 
 haustible agricultural and mineral resources, which recent 
 movements indicate with certainty are destined to a speedy 
 development. 
 
 As already observed, this is the only possible Atlantic 
 terminus for the (probably) only possible ship-canal route 
 across the continent. And this is to be regarded as the great 
 and controlling fact which led to its seizure by the English, 
 at the moment when it became certain that California would 
 fall into the hands of the United States, and the question of 
 an inter-oceanic communication became one of immediate 
 and practical importance. The seizure, it is well known, 
 was made under the shallow pretext of supporting the terri 
 torial pretensions of a tribe of savages, or mixed negroes and 
 Indians, called Moscos, or Mosquitos, and in virtue of some 
 equivocal relations which the pirates of Jamaica anciently 
 maintained with them. When, however, it is known that 
 this was the principal port of entry of Nicaragua under the 
 Spanish dominion ; that for more than three hundred years 
 it was the avenue through which its trade was conducted ;' 
 that the river flowing past it was defended by massive and 
 costly works, which, although in ruins, are yet imposing; 
 that no Mosquito Indian ever resided here; that all its 
 inhabitants were, and with the exception of a few foreign 
 merchants and the English officials, still are Nicaraguans; 
 and that England herself recognized it as pertaining to 
 

 3m0cbcK8Bw1 g BmB w B BM iBKg w H 
 
 THE BRITISH OCCUPATION. 
 
 79 
 
 Nicaragua by blockading it as a part of her territories ; and 
 when to all this is added the fact, that the Mosquito Indians 
 never, themselves, pretended to any territorial rights here or 
 elsewhere, until induced to do so by British agents, the 
 enormity of the seizure is rendered apparent. But as the 
 facts connected with these and similar encroachments will 
 form the subject of a separate chapter, it is unnecessary to 
 refer further to them here. Since the seizure of the port, 
 and in ludicrous commentary on the assertion of the British 
 Government, that its sole design in taking that step was the 
 '• re-cstablislvment of Mosquito rights and authority," its 
 municipal and other regulations, not excepting its port 
 charges and customs' rates, have been promulgated and fixed 
 by an officer styling himself "Her Britannic Majesty's Con- 
 sul," or " Vice Consul ;" Avho has for his executive force a 
 few Jamaica negroes, called, probably in irony, "police." 
 He is, in fact, dictator of the place, and the inhabitants are 
 subject without appeal to his will, for there are no written 
 laws or lixed regulations of any kind. He assumes to dispose 
 of lands, and gives titles under his consular seal ; nor does 
 lie, ever so remotely, appear to recognize the so-called 
 Mosquito King. Indeed, the only evidence that this farcical 
 character is held in remembrance at all is that a flag, said to 
 be his, is occasionally hoisted in an open space in the centre 
 of the town. The English flag, however, floats over what is 
 called the Custom House, and is the only one for which any 
 degree of respect is exacted. The new tariff, promulgated 
 here in April, 1850, was signed "J. M. Daly, Collector," and 
 did not purport to have been enacted by any superior 
 authority. Indeed, the present situation of the town, over- 
 awed as it constantly is by one or two British vessels, is 
 anomalous in the extreme. If, as it is pretended, this port 
 belongs to the supposititious Mosquito King, it is difficult to 
 understand how a second party can exercise sovereignty 
 over it; or upon what principles of international law the 
 
80 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 consuls of one nation can assume municipal and general 
 administrative authority in the ports of another. The simple 
 fact is, that Great Britain, having secured possession of this 
 important port, under a pretext which deceives nobody, no 
 longer cares to stultify herself by affecting to conform to that 
 pretext. The thing is too absurd to be continued. 
 
 The River San Juan reaches the ocean by several mouths. 
 The divergence takes place abput twenty miles from the sea. 
 forming a low delta, penetrated by numerous canals, or, as 
 they are called on the Lower Mississippi, bayous, and lagunas. 
 The principal branch is the Colorado, which carries off at 
 least two-thirds of the water of the river, and which empties 
 into the ocean some ten or fifteen miles to the southward of 
 the port. There is an almost impassable bar at the entrance, 
 which would preclude the ascent of vessels, even if the depth 
 of water above permitted of their proceeding after it was 
 passed. The little steamer " Orus," nevertheless, after 
 repeated trials, succeeded in passing it in August last. There 
 is another small channel called the Taura, which reaches the 
 sea midway between the port and the mouth of the Colorado. 
 The branch flowing into the harbor, the one through which 
 the ascending and descending boats pass, carries off only 
 about one-third of the water of the river. It has also a bar 
 at the mouth, that is, at its point of debouchure into the 
 harbor, upon which, at low tide, there are but three or four 
 feet of water. This passed, the bed of the river is wide and 
 studded with low islands; but excepting in the channel, 
 which is narrow and crooked, the water is very shallow. It 
 has been suggested that the Colorado branch might be 
 dammed, and a greater column of water thrown into the 
 other, or San Juan branch. But this suggestion can only be 
 made by those who are wholly unacquainted with the sub- 
 ject. Allowing it to be possible to build a dam, the stream 
 would find a new channel to the sea ; or if it took the direc- 
 tion of the harbor, fill it up, during the first rainy season, with 
 
i.7^"4" •'Ta' A* ?"V 
 
 ■JGf-fif.i 
 
 sSSMnHH| 
 
 VqeMsBBmBSmS 
 
 NAVIGATION OF THE SAN JUAN. 
 
 81 
 
 mud, or at once destroy the sandy barriers which now form 
 and protect it. As will be seen, when I come to speak of 
 the practicability of a canal, the utmost that can bo done 
 with the river is to dredge out the channel to the Colorado, 
 and remove some of the obstacles at the various rapids above, 
 a Iter which it might be navigated by small steamers. It cannot 
 be made navigable for ships or vessels of any kind, except 
 of the lightest draught, by any practicable system of improve- 
 ments. 
 
 The boats used upon the river for carrying freight and 
 passengers are exaggerated canoes, called bongos. Some are 
 hollowed from a single tree, but the better varieties are built, 
 with some degree of skill, from the timber of the cedro, a 
 very light and durable kind of wood, which grows abundantly 
 about the lakes. The largest of these carry from eight to 
 ten tons, and draw two or three feet of water when loaded. 
 They are long, and rather deep and narrow, and have, when 
 fully manned, from eight to twelve 'oarsmen, who drive the 
 boat by means of long sweeps and setting-poles. Sails are 
 seldom if ever used, except upon the lake;. The masts are 
 unshipped and left at the head of the river in descending, 
 ami resumed again in returning. These boats have a small 
 space near the stem, called the " chopa" covered with a board 
 roof, a thatch of palm leaves, or with hides, which is assigned 
 to the passengers. The rest of the boat is open, and the 
 oarsmen, or, as they call themselves, marinero*, sailors, are 
 without protection, and sleep upon their benches at night, 
 covered only with their blankets, and with the gunwale of 
 the boat for a common pillow. The captain, or patron, is 
 the steersman, and occupies a narrow deck at the stern, called 
 the pineta, upon which he also sleeps, coiling himself up in a 
 knot, if the boat is small and the pineta narrow. The freight, 
 if liable to damage from exposure, is covered with raw hides, 
 which, between sun and rain, soon diffuse an odor very un- 
 like the perfumes which are said to load the breezes of Arabia 
 11 
 
■BEE 
 
 82 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 the Blest. The usual freight from San Juan to Granada, 
 a distance of one hundred and sixty or one hundred and 
 seventy miles, is from thirty to fifty cents per cwt. ; if the 
 articles are bulky, it is more. The boatmen are paid from 
 seven to eight dollars the trip, down from Granada and back, 
 which usually occupies from twenty to thirty days, although 
 with proper management it might be made in less time. 
 Time, however, in these regions is not regarded as of much 
 importance, and everything is done very leisurely. It is 
 only in active commrAiities that its value is considered. 
 
 Columbus coasted along the entire eastern shore of Central 
 America, from Cape Honduras to Nombre de Dios, or Chagres, 
 in 1502, and was probably the first discoverer of the Port of 
 San Juan. In 1529, Captain Diego Machuca, residing in 
 the city of Granada, on Lake Nicaragua, undertook the 
 exploration of that lake, discovered its outlet, passed down 
 the San Juan to the port at its mouth, and sailed thence to 
 Nombre de Dios. The principal rapids in the stream still bears 
 his name. We are informed by the historian Gonzalo Fer- 
 nandez de Oviedo y Valdez, who was in Nicaragua in 1529, 
 and was personally acquainted with Machuca, that the latter 
 projected a colony at the mouth of the river, but was inter- 
 rupted in his design by Robles, commandant at Nombre de 
 Dios, who contemplated the same enterprise. At how early 
 a date the Spanish made establishments at San Juan, is not 
 known ; but it is a historical fact, that early in the seventeenth 
 century a fort existed at San Carlos, which was captured by 
 the English in 1665, but recovered by De Mencos and De 
 Caldas, officers of Spain in the then Kingdom of Guatemala. 
 (Juarros 1 History of the Kingdom of Guatemala, Baily's Trans., 
 p. 67.) In consequence of this event, a royal decree was 
 issued, commanding that the entrance of the river should be 
 fortified ; which order was carried into effect by Don Fer- 
 nando de Escobeda, who examined the port and river, and 
 built a fort in obedience to his instructions. It is also a his- 
 

 HISTORICAL NOTICES. 
 
 83 
 
 torical fact, that at the period of the rebuilding of the Fort of 
 San Juan, on the river above, about 1727, a garrison was 
 maintained here. At that time not less than twelve military 
 stations existed on the river ; the first was at San Carlos, at 
 the head of the stream ; the second at the mouth of the Rio 
 Savalos ; the third, a short distance from the mouth of the Rio 
 Poco Sol ; the fourth, the Castle of San Juan ; the fifth, the 
 Island of Bartola ; sixth, a high bank below the Rapids de 
 los Valos, called "Diamante;" seventh, at the Rapids of 
 Machuca ; eighth, on an island at the mouth of the River 
 San Carlos ; ninth, at the mouth of the Rio San Francisco ; 
 tenth, at the mouth of the Serapiqui; eleventh, at the point 
 called "Conception," opposite an island of the same name; 
 and twelfth, at the Port of San Juan itself, with an inter- 
 mediate temporary station called "Rosario." 
 
 The commerce of Nicaragua with Europe and the West 
 Indies was always carried on through this port; and we 
 have records of as early a date as 1665, of vessels clearing 
 for the ports of Spain from the city of Granada. San Juan 
 was made a port of entry by royal order of the King of 
 Spain, dated February 26, 1796. By a royal order of the 
 27th of March following, regulations were made for promoting 
 the settlement of the country in the neighborhood of that 
 port, among which was one authorizing the introduction, in 
 the ports of Spain, of dye and other woods cut there, or of 
 coffee grown there, free of duty. From this period an aug- 
 mented military force was kept up at San Juan, and in 1821 
 additional defences were erected for their protection, as may 
 be seen by the order of the Captain-General of Guatemala, of 
 the date of May 2, 1821. Upon the declaration of indepen- 
 dence, the royal troops were expelled by the patriots of 
 Nicaragua, by whom the port was indisputably occupied 
 until the British seizure in January, 1848. 
 
wk 
 
 
.<^ST f.i>CT,'C?X J ^-t;?r;"f : yT 
 
 MUM 
 
 CHAPTER III 
 
 THE MAGNATES OF SAN JUAN — CAPTAIN' SAMUEL SIIEPHERD ROYAL GRANTS 
 
 VEXATIOUS DELAYS IMPOSING DEPARTURE ENTRANCE OF THE RIVER SAN 
 
 JUAN "PEELING" OF THE MARINEROS CHARACTER OF THE STREAM THE 
 
 JUANILLO AN IMMEMORIAL STOPPING-PLACE BONGOS, AND THEIR EQUIPMENTS 
 
 AND STORES — MEALS ESPRIT DE CORPS AMONG THE BOATMEN THE " ORA- 
 
 CION" QUEER CAPRICES MEDIO OUR ACCOMMODATIONS A SPECIMEN NIGHT 
 
 ON THE RIVER MORNING SCENES AND IMPRESSIONS BONGO LIFE THE COLO- 
 RADO MOUTH — CHANGE OF SCENERY THE IGUANA A SOLITARY ESTABLISH- 
 MENT TROPICAL EASE THE RIO SERAPIQUI FIGHT BETWEEN THE NICARA- 
 
 GUANS AND THE ENGLISH "a FAMOUS VICTORY'' THE RIO SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 REMOLINO GRANDE PICTURESQUE RIVER VIEWS THE HILLS AND PASS OF SAN 
 
 CARLOS THUNDER STORMS THE MACHUCA RAPIDS MELCHORA INDIANS 
 
 RAPIDS OF MICO AND LOS VALOS RAPIDS OF THE CASTILLO ISLAND OF BAR- 
 TOLA CAPTURE BY LORD NELSON THE " CASTILLO VIEJO,"OR OLD CASTLE OF 
 
 SAN JUAN "A DIOS CALIFORNIA!" ASCEND TO THE RUINS STRONG 
 
 WORKS CAPTURE OF TnE FORT BY THE ENGLISH IN 1780 FAILURE OF THE 
 
 EXPEDITION AGAINST NICARAGUA; A SCRAP OF HISTORY PASSAGE OF THE 
 
 RAPIDS — DIFFERENT ASPECT OF THE RIVER — A BLACK EAGLE — NINETY MILES 
 
 IN" SIX DAYS THE FORT OF SAN CARLOS GREAT LAKE OF NICARAGUA 
 
 LAM) AT SAN CARLOS THE COMMANDANTE HEARTY WELCOME NOVEL SCENES 
 
 ANCIENT DEFENCES VIEW FROM THE FORT THE RIO FRIO — THE GUATOSOS 
 
 INDIANS A PARADISE FOR ALLIGATORS, AND SOME HAPPY INSTITUTIONS OF 
 
 THEIRS. 
 
 Most small communities have in their midst one or two 
 resident notabilities, who are regarded something in the lighl 
 of* oracles, and to whom general deference is acceded. San 
 Juan is not an exception; and Captain Samuel Shepherd is 
 at once, per se, a personage so characteristic and so associated 
 and identified with the place, that no description of San 
 Juan would be complete in which he failed to be a promi- 
 
BE 
 
 M 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 nent feature. His residence is the most pretentious edifice 
 in San Juan ; it is, in fact, the architectural wonder of the 
 place, inasmuch as it is not only a framed building, but has 
 a shingled roof and glazed windows. It was built by Cap- 
 tain Shepherd, in his more prosperous days, when he was the 
 principal trader on the coast from Boca del Toro to Yucatan, 
 and before age had crippled his energies, and reverses dissi- 
 pated his fortune. He is now old and nearly blind, but hale, 
 cheerful, intelligent, and communicative, and capable of 
 giving more information relative to the coast than any man 
 living. He seldom leaves his hammock, which is swung in 
 the principal room of his house, and in Avhich he receives all 
 his visitors. We called upon him, on the second day after 
 our arrival, and were received with every demonstration of 
 respect. The captain was never more eloquent, and although 
 he had always been classed as an Englishman, yet he said 
 he was born in the United States, and meant to claim its 
 protection as a citizen. He had been appointed " Governor 
 of the Port," or some such nominal and trumpery office, by 
 the British Consul, by way of conciliation, but he was not to 
 be taken in so easily ; and as for the orders winch had been 
 promulgated in his name, concerning the pigs and chickens, 
 he protested it was altogether the consul's doings ; he had 
 shut up neither the one nor the other, and regarded these 
 animals quite as good citizens as the rest; the consul might 
 shoot any of them, (pigs or citizens,) if he dared. And as 
 for the pretended English protectorate, and the authority 
 assumed under it, the one was a fraud and the other an im- 
 position; for whatever title the Mosquito Indians ever 
 possessed, had been formally transferred and secured to him. 
 And the captain here produced, from a very closely locked 
 and substantial case, a variety of parchment grants and con- 
 veyances, bearing the "his + mark" of "Robert Charles 
 Frederick," father of the little Sambo boy now wearing the 
 Mosquitian purple, in which it was duly set forth and attested 
 
■■■■■■H ^HHHKBHflHj 
 
 ;-fTI-,*> ■* l .^*^-f *vj 
 
 
 ^HHHBB 
 
 CAPTAIN SHEPHERD. 
 
 87 
 
 that " upon the 24th of January, 1839, in consideration of 
 the true and laudable services rendered to us by Samuel 
 Shepherd, etc., we, Eobert Charles Frederick, King of the 
 Mosquito nation, of our special grace, and of our certain 
 knowledge and free motion, have given and granted, and by 
 these presents, sealed with our seal, do give and grant unto 
 the said Samuel Shepherd, etc., all that tract of land lying 
 between Blewiields River on the north, and San Juan River 
 on the south," etc., etc., in the most approved form, and with 
 royal prolixity, all of which is duly witnessed, together with 
 the peaceable transfer and possession of the territory in ques- 
 tion, approved by General Slam, Admiral Rodney, Lord Nel- 
 son, and other equally distinguished personages, 1 comprising 
 the august council of the breechlcss but imperial "Robert 
 Charles Frederick." Several other similar and equally 
 formal documents were produced, in which the various 
 Mosquito potentates had transferred to Mr. Shepherd and his 
 associates about two-thirds of their pretended kingdom. 
 When, in 1841, the English government sent its agents here 
 to secure the country as a dependency on the British Empire, 
 their first act was to procure the revocation of these grants, 
 by the young Sambo, "George William Clarence," which 
 was accordingly done; the act of revocation setting forth, in 
 a most unfilial way, that "his late majesty was not in his 
 right mind when he made them," that is, was drunk I But 
 Captain Shepherd protests that the revocation was procured 
 
 1 Like most savages, the Mosquito Indians are exceedingly vain, not 
 less of names than apparel. It is a common thing to see a black fellow, 
 without hat, shirt, or breeches, strutting through the little Indian towns 
 on the coast, in a buttonless military jacket, purchased from a .lew's cast- 
 off clothing shop in Kingston, and given to him by some Jamaica trader 
 in exchange for turtle shells. In nine eases out of ten the wearer proclaims 
 his name to be Lord Wellington, General Wolfe, or Lord Nelson, or some 
 other equally distinguished name, which he has heard the traders mention. 
 The lowest rank thus assumed is that of General. 
 
NICARAG UA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 through the influence of Jamaica rum, that his titles are in 
 no degree impaired by it, and that the " his + mark" of one 
 savage is as good as that of another. He regards the British 
 occupation, therefore, as a direct invasion of his rights and 
 sovereignty, and insists that if the port docs not belong to 
 Nicaragua, it certainly does to him; a sequitur which we at 
 once admitted, much to the captain's satisfaction, and to his 
 admiration of American justice, discrimination, and judg- 
 ment. 
 
 Once off from his hobby, the old sailor was more interest- 
 ing, if less amusing, and talked of matters in general in a 
 manner highly original. His account of the relations which 
 existed between the mixed brood of Indians and Negroes on 
 the coasts, and the Jamaica traders, was given with a direct- 
 ness somewhat startling to persons not yet emancipated from 
 the conventional rigors of the United States, but which con- 
 stituted the best evidence of its truth. To say that these 
 relations were exceedingly free and easy, is hardly explicit 
 enough, as will be admitted when it is known that the visit 
 of the traders was looked forward to as a kind of festival, 
 when all ages and sexes abandoned themselves to general 
 drunkenness and indiscriminate licentiousness. Every old 
 trader had a number of children at every landing-place or 
 settlement on the coast ; and on the occasion of each visit, 
 he impiously baptized all those which he conceived might 
 be his own. This indiscriminate intercourse, it can readily 
 be imagined, lias resulted in a complete demoralization of the 
 natives, and has been attended by physical consequences 
 quite as deplorable as those which have followed the inter- 
 course of Europeans with some of the Pacific Islands. These 
 relations were established by the pirates, when they thronged 
 the Spanish main, from Jamaica as a centre, and they are 
 now referred to, by the British government, as an evidence 
 of ancient alliance, and in support of an assumed protector- 
 ate ! It was not without a feeling of sympathy for the almost 
 

 BGMnUWMnU 
 
 ■■■■■iNMHl 
 
 OUR BONGO 
 
 LA GRANADINA. 
 
 89 
 
 sightless old captain, that Ave left him swinging in his ham- 
 mock, where he is doubtless yet to be found, clinging hope- 
 fully to his parchment titles. 
 
 We remained six days at San Juan, at the end of which 
 time, having witnessed a promiscuous affair called a fandango, 
 not at all spiritualized by the West Indian variations on the 
 none-too-delicate original, and exhausted the limited stock of 
 amusements which the place affords, besides having become 
 completely wearied with the low, monotonous scenery, and 
 not a little disgusted because of the absence of those- tropical 
 luxuries of which we had formed so high anticipations, we 
 were anxious for a change. But few boats arrived from the 
 interior, in consequence of an attempted revolution, and these 
 brought accounts of the state of affairs, which we afterwards 
 found were much exaggerated, but which made us especially 
 anxious to proceed on our journey. When, therefore, our 
 baggage and stores had been fished up from the hold of the 
 Frances, and piled in dire confusion in the middle of our 
 partitionless house, no time was lost in preparing for our 
 departure. Through the assistance of my colored friend, we 
 had engaged one of the largest bongos then in port for our 
 exclusive accommodation, paying dearly for the stipulation 
 that no freight beyond our own should be taken, — -an unne- 
 cessary precaution, by the way, of which our colored friend 
 neglected t<> inform us, for the troubles in the interior pre- 
 vented the merchants from shipping goods in that direction, 
 and had it not been for our opportune arrival, the boat must 
 have gone empty. This bongo bore the name of "La Gra- 
 nadina," and looked not wholly uncomfortable as she lay at 
 her moorings, just off the shore. She had a crew of ten 
 stalwart oarsmen, and was particularly commended on account 
 of her patron, Pedro, one of the patriarchs of the river, who. 
 amongst his other accomplishments, spoke a little English, of 
 which, for a wonder, he was not at all vain. As soon as the 
 arrangement was completed, our marineros made court to us 
 12 
 
90 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 most assiduously, fairly hustling each, other for the honor 
 (worth a medio) of carrying the members of our party back- 
 wards and forth from " La Grenadina. 1 ' One of the number, 
 a slight but well-proportioned Mestizo, was a subject for the 
 
 O U II BONG O — ■' l LA GKANADINA. 
 
 Washingtonians, and won the soubriquet of " Medio," from 
 his frequent applications for sixpence. On these occasions 
 he would gravely take off his hat, and throwing himself in a 
 theatrical attitude, bring his closed left hand with Forrestian 
 force on his naked breast, exclaiming, " Soy un liombre bueno /" 
 I am a good man! It was worth the money to witness the 
 relapse from dignity to servility when the coin touched his 
 palm. Medio little thought how strict a parallel he afforded 
 to men in other countries, and loftier spheres of action. 
 Medio's price was sixpence, although he had served as ser- 
 geant in the army, and distinguished himself among the 
 " veteranos." 
 
 The day of our departure had been fixed for the 12th, at 
 four in the morning, and Pedro had promised faithfully to 
 have all things in readiness. With the anticipation of an 
 early start, we bade all our friends good-bye over night, and 
 retired early, declining any provision for breakfast on shore, 
 lest we might cause delays in the morning. Morning came, 
 but not a sailor was to be seen near the " La Granadina," 
 except the one who had kept watch over night; the rest, he 
 said, would be there " muy pronto" very soon; whereupon 
 he dodged beneath the chopa, and composed himself for 
 another nap. We waited an hour on the shore ; meantime 
 
;«?!*£3£3^9 ^^^^^■^^^^^^^^^^^■■■■■■■^^^^^^^^^^^^^H 
 
 
 VEXATIOUS DELAYS. 
 
 91 
 
 the sun came up, door after door was unbarred, and the 
 people came streaming down to the water to perform their 
 morning ablutions, evidently greatly puzzled to account for 
 our presence there. Their salutations seemed to conceal a 
 vast deal of irony, and I fear were not returned with the 
 utmost amiability. At eight o'clock, after firmly resolving 
 to hold Pedro to a strict accountability for his delinquency, 
 we returned in high indignation to our old quarters, and 
 despatched orders for breakfast. To our infinite surprise, 
 Monsieur S. had already prepared it. lie received us with a 
 smile, and when the meal was finished, coolly asked our 
 preferences for dinner ! This was rather too severe an en- 
 forcement of our first lesson in native delays, and led to an 
 explanation, in the course of which Monsieur told us that he 
 had long since found out the absurdity of attempting to ad- 
 vise Americans in such matters ; and ended with the assur- 
 ance that if we got off by the middle of the afternoon we 
 might regard ourselves as particularly fortunate. We never- 
 theless returned to the shore, and found part of the crew had 
 assembled, and were collecting wood and arranging their 
 kettles preparatory to making breakfast. Never was any- 
 thing performed more deliberately ; and the meal itself was dis- 
 posed of with equal deliberation. It was nearly eleven when 
 the kettles were again placed in the boat, and quite twelve 
 when Pedro made his appearance. Fortunately for his sable 
 skin, our impatience had taken the chronic form of dogged 
 endurance, and we sat amongst boxes, trunks, and guns, silent 
 and grim, but cherishing the determination to make ourselves 
 even with the vagabonds before we got through with them. 
 Monsieur S. proved to be right; and it was late in the after- 
 noon before the last straggler was got in, and the signal was 
 given for starting. We severally mounted on the naked 
 shoulders of the men, and were deposited on the pineta, a 
 novel mode of embarkation Avith which we afterwards became 
 familiar. The sailors took their places, and Pedro, with a 
 
92 
 
 NIC AR AG U A — N ARR ATI VE. 
 
 great conch shell in one hand, gravely stationed himself at 
 the tiller. The sweeps were raised, and every eye was fixed 
 on the Patron, who glanced over the crew, as much as to ask 
 " all ready?" and then, raising the shell to his lips, gave a 
 long, unearthly blast, The sweeps fell simultaneously into 
 the water, the men uttered a hoo-pah, the crowd on the beach 
 shouted, the women waved their rebozos, while Ben unfurled 
 the American flag at the bow. La Granadina seemed to fly 
 through the water, and our friend, the Consul General, pro- 
 truded his head from his hospitable garret, and waved his 
 adieus as we swept by. The crew of the little Francis also 
 hurrahed from her shrouds, and altogether, as Pedro, drop- 
 ping his conch, proudly observed, it was a demonstration 
 worthv of the occasion. He evidently thought it would tell 
 well in the United States! 
 
 We were too glad to get off, to care much for anything 
 else; nor did we experience many regrets when we took our 
 last look at the long, low line of huts, and found ourselves 
 shut in by the green banks of the river. Fairly in the 
 stream, and out of sight of the town, the oars were drawn 
 aboard, and every marinero stripped himself of his scanty 
 clothing, which was carefully wrapped up, and deposited in 
 a protected place, nor put on again until we reached the head 
 ofthe river. 'This somewhat startling ceremony over, each man 
 lighted a segar and resumed his oar; but the strokes were 
 now leisurely made, and the severe realities of the voyage 
 commenced. For some miles the banks of the river, as also 
 the numerous islands which studded it, were low, covered with 
 canes, and with a, species of tall grass called gamahte. In 
 places the stream was compressed between the islands, with 
 a rapid current; while elsewhere it spread out in broad, 
 glassy reaches, of great apparent depth, but shallow every- 
 where except in the channel; which, as the bed of the river 
 is sand, is narrow and tortuous, and constantly shifting. A 
 few miles above the harbor, we came to where the Juanillo, 
 

 THE RIVER JUANILLO. 
 
 93 
 
 "Little John," rejoins the river, from which it diverges some 
 twenty-five miles above the mouth. After winding through 
 the low grounds back of San Juan, spreading out into lagu- 
 nas, and atone place into a considerable lake, it returns to 
 the main stream, purple with vegetable infusions. The 
 Indians sometimes penetrate this channel in canoes, for the 
 purpose of shooting the wild fowl which people its marshy, 
 pestilent borders, and of killing themanitus, which here finds 
 a congenial solitude. 
 
 During the rainy season the whole marshy region through 
 which the Juanillo flows is covered with water, as is also 
 nearly the entire delta of the river, which, in the ordinary 
 stages, is nowhere elevated more than a few feet above the 
 river. It was now the commencement of the rains in the 
 interior ; the stream was rising, and, as our freight was com- 
 paratively light, we were enabled to proceed without much 
 difficulty. We nevertheless sometimes ran aground, on 
 which occasions our men leaped overboard, and putting their 
 shoulders under the boat, lifted it off. The bongos are some- 
 times obliged, both in ascending and descending, to take out 
 part of their freight, and depositing the remainder beyond the 
 shallower sections of the river, return again for it. This, 
 however, occurs only during the dry season, when the river 
 has probably not more than hall' the volume which it pos- 
 sesses during the period of the rains. 
 
 In the exhilaration of our departure we had epiite forgotten 
 the disappointment of the morning, and had abandoned our- 
 selves to the enjoyment of the novelty alike of our circum- 
 stances and the scenery. But our day's annoyances were not 
 complete. After paddling for perhaps five miles, we came 
 to where the banks had more firmness, and were a trifle 
 higher than below, and where the canes and long grass gave 
 way to a rank growth of palms ; their broad leaves forming a 
 roof impenetrable to the sun. Here, at a place where the 
 undergrowth had been removed, and the trees rose like 
 
mr y 
 
 94 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 gotliic columns, with evergreen arches, covering cool, dark 
 vistas, our boat was quietly thrust in shore, and we were 
 astonished with preparations for another meal. We remon- 
 strated, but it was of no use; all the bongos had stopped 
 here from time immemorial, and Pedro told us, in broken 
 English, that the demonio could not get the sailors by. And 
 Pedro himself sat deliberately down on the pineta, and turn- 
 ing up his toes, began a grand hunt for niguas. Some of the 
 men followed the example of the Patron, others lifted out the 
 kettles, and still others built a fire. 
 
 Every bongo, on leaving the interior, takes on board a 
 large number of plantains, not yet fully ripe, and which are 
 therefore called verdes. These are detached from the stalk, 
 " corded up" in the boAV of the boat, and constitute the prin- 
 cipal reliance of the men. A few, that are nearly or quite 
 ripe, called maduras, are also taken on board for immediate 
 use. Besides these, there is a box of jerked beef, or what 
 the Americans ironically call yard beef, — i. e. beef cut in long 
 strips and dried in the sun. Some bottles of rnanteca (lard), 
 or a quantity of kidney fat and a bag of rice are added, and 
 then the substantial supplies for the voyage are complete. 
 The cookery is very simple. Stakes are driven in the ground 
 to support the kettle, in which is first put a portion of fat, 
 next ;i layer of jrfattmos verdes from which the skin has been 
 stripped, then a layer of beef cut in small pieces, a calabash 
 of rice, some salt, and so on until the kettle is filled. Water 
 is poured over all, and the whole is thoroughly boiled. 
 While this is going on, the men amuse themselves with 
 roasting bits of meat on the ends of pointed sticks. Nothing 
 can be wilder or more picturesque than a dozen naked, 
 swarthy figures crouched around the fire, in the deep sha- 
 dows of the forest, protecting their faces from the heat with 
 their hands, and keeping up the while a most vociferous dis- 
 cussion, generally about the merits of this or that bongo, or 
 upon some other subject of equal interest to themselves. 
 

 LOS MARINEROS. 
 
 95 
 
 When the mess in the kettle is cooked, each one fills his 
 calabash, and with his fingers or a cocoa-nut spoon disposes 
 of it at his leisure. As the "yard beef" has always a most 
 suspicious odor, I could bring myself to taste the con- 
 tents of the kettle but once. I must do the marineros the 
 justice to say that it was not an unsavory dish. It is always 
 arranged to have half a kettle full of the compound over, to 
 which the men help themselves at their pleasure. 
 
 Besides these common stores, every sailor has a private 
 stock, consisting, generally, of a bag of tiste, (parched corn, 
 ground with cacao and sugar,) which is mixed with water, 
 making a nourishing and most delicious beverage. He has 
 also a few cakes of chancaca, or, as he calls it, dulce, i. e., un- 
 refined sugar, which he eats in its raw state. A few stalks 
 of sugar-cane are almost always to be found stowed away 
 amongst the freight, upon which the men entertain them- 
 selves after the anchor is cast for the night. In fact, when 
 they are not sleeping or at the oars, they are eating or smok- 
 ing, and are as loquacious as a flock of parrots. A stranger 
 would suppose they were constantly on the verge of a gen- 
 eral quarrel. Yet, like the arrieros of Mexico, these men 
 are, with few exceptions, good-tempered, honest, and trust- 
 worthy, and have an esprit de corps amongst them which is 
 carefully kept up. They are governed by certain conven- 
 tional rules, which none dare violate; and their quarrels are 
 generally referred to the decision of the older and more in- 
 fluential individuals of their own number. 
 
 It was nearly sunset when the meal was finished ; the boat 
 was pushed out in the stream, and we were once more on our 
 way. We had now come to that part of the river where the 
 long, broad reaches commence, and were moving slowly and 
 almost noiselessly along in the shadow of the trees, on the 
 tops of which the sunlight was shining, when suddenly, as if 
 by a simultaneous impulse, the sweeps were raised, and each 
 sailor reverently took off his hat, — the hour of the oracion 
 
IfT 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 had come. The bowman commenced the evening chaunt, 
 the chorus of which was taken up by the entire crew, with a 
 precision, in respect to cadence and time, which could only 
 result from long practice. There was certainly something 
 impressive in the apparent devotion of these rude men, apart 
 from the effect of the melody itself, caught up as it was by 
 the echoes, and prolonged in the forest solitudes. Yet the 
 impression was destroyed by one of those freaks in which the 
 natives of this country seem to delight, and which constantly 
 outrage the traveller's sense of propriety. No sooner was 
 the chaunt concluded, than all hands gave a shout, and bend- 
 ing to the sweeps, pulled like madmen for a few minutes, and 
 then as suddenly stopped again, and broke out in a paroxysm 
 of laughter. 
 
 We afterwards frequently witnessed the same proceeding, 
 but could never discover the reason for it, probably because 
 there was no reason in the case. We came, in the end, to 
 look upon it as a simple ebullition of animal feeling. The 
 fit of laughter over, the men pulled steadily for a couple of 
 hours, keeping time to a kind of round which was certainly 
 not without a degree of melody, but which was chiefly 
 acceptable because it required a full and rapid swing of the 
 sweeps, and was therefore favorable to speed. We always 
 applauded it, and when impatient of our slow progress, ex- 
 ercised our ingenuity to introduce it as frequently as possible 
 without creating suspicion of the object. Our friend " Medio," 
 however, sharper than the rest, detected us; but he was 
 adroit enough to turn his wit to account, by exacting extra 
 allowances of our ardiente as the reward of his silence. 
 
 It was long after dark when we came to anchor in the 
 midst of the stream, at a point above the gamalote islands, 
 which are always densely populated with mosquitoes. For 
 this reason the bongos never stop over night near them, if it 
 can be avoided. The sailors have also a fancy, whether well- 
 founded or otherwise I am unprepared to say, that noise will 
 

 W&& 
 
 BONGO LIFE. 
 
 97 
 
 attract these annoying visitors. The sweeps are therefore 
 pulled on board, and the anchor run out as silently as possi- 
 ble, and all conversation thereafter is carried on in a sup- 
 pressed voice. 
 
 One night on the river is much like all others, and our 
 first may be taken as an "average" example of our noctur- 
 nal experiences. The trunks of the party had been packed 
 beneath the chopa, with principal reference to a level surface. 
 Upon these were spread ponchos, blankets, and whatever 
 might contribute to relieve the unyielding sub-stratum, while 
 the carpet bags, and gutta-percha pouches were reserved for 
 pillows. A stout cord was fastened close under the roof, 
 over which were hung a change of linen, and a few necessary 
 articles of dress. Here too were slung, in easy reach, and 
 with special regard to convenience in case of necessity, our 
 guns, pistols, and bowie knives, with the requisite ammuni- 
 tion. A few books and materials for drawing were be- 
 stowed on a shelf beneath the pineta, where also Ben had 
 established the commissariat department, — one which, above 
 all others, is not to be neglected in ascending the San Juan. It 
 was barely possible to sit erect beneath the chopa; and ex- 
 cepting the narrow space between it and the first bench, 
 there was no room to stand, unless we encroached upon the 
 Patron's pineta, — which, it may be mentioned, Ave were not 
 scrupulous in doing. Here, notwithstanding the heat of the 
 sun, I passed most of the day, to the thorough embrowning 
 of every exposed part of the person. The thatched chopa, a 
 paradise for insects, was covered with raw hides, and two 
 immense ones were fixed at either end. When it rained, 
 these were let down, converting the interior into a kind of 
 oven, intolerably close and hot. After one or two trials, we 
 preferred to take the risk of getting wet to that of being 
 suffocated by the heat, and would not allow them to be low- 
 ered. In fact, after repeated wettings, their stench became 
 unendurable, and we had them removed entirely, much to 
 13 
 
98 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 the astonishment of Pedro, who really seemed to relish the 
 smell of putrescent hides ! In the first class bongos, which 
 have board roofs, with close joints, this annoyance is obvi- 
 ated. In these the traveller also finds a refuge on the top of 
 the chopa, from the discomforts of the interior. 
 
 We sat up late, watching the men, who gathered in a group 
 near the bow of the boat, each with a cigar in his mouth, a 
 handkerchief bound round his head, and a blanket thrown 
 over his shoulders. There they sat for hours, keeping up 
 conversation in a low tone, and with every appearance of 
 great earnestness. Finally, however, they broke off one by 
 one, and stretched themselves each on his own hard bench. 
 Ben, too, who had been with Fremont across the continent, 
 had travelled all over Mexico, and was consequently a phi- 
 losopher after his way, took to the only vacant bench, while 
 Pedro coiled himself in a heap on the pineta. The night 
 was threatening, no stars were visible, and we could only 
 discern the dark water sweeping past us, by the light of the 
 "fire-fly lamps." An alligator occasionally plunged heavily 
 in the stream, but excepting the water rippling under the 
 bow, all else was silent. 
 
 It was past midnight when the drops of an approaching 
 shower warned us to seek the shelter of the chopa. We 
 found our quarters sufficiently narrow, and the trunks, spite 
 of ponchos and blankets, portentously hard. Yet, thanks 
 to former experiences, I was soon asleep, and slumbered 
 soundly until morning. A few straggling mosquitos, how- 
 ever, had disturbed my companions, who were up long 
 before me, unrefreshed and complaining. Although it was 
 hardly sunrise, we had been moving for two or three hours, 
 and were past the Tauro mouth of the San Juan, and 
 approaching the point of divergence of the Colorado. And 
 although the banks were little if any higher than before, yet 
 the feathery palms, of which I have spoken, were interspersed 
 with other varieties of trees, some of which were of large 
 

 
 MORNING ON THE RIVER. 
 
 size, and draped all over with vines, that hung in rich 
 festoons over the water. Birds of varied plumage glanced 
 in and out of the forest, and cranes and other water-fowl 
 paced soberly along the sand bars, or flew lazily up the 
 stream as we approached. Occasionally a pair of green 
 macaws, — the macaw is never seen except in couples, — 
 fluttered slowly over our heads, almost deafening us with 
 their discordant notes. The air was cool and fresh, remind- 
 ing me of a morning in June at home, and I experienced a 
 degree of exhilaration in performing my morning ablutions 
 which completely put to flight all my previously conceived 
 notions of tropical lassitude. Mists lurked here and there 
 in the bends of the river, and in shadowy nooks, but they 
 gradually dispersed, and at eight o'clock, when the boat was 
 moored under the shadow of a gigantic tree, the sun shone 
 brilliantly upon a scene as luxuriant as the imagination can 
 portray. Ben boiled his, coffee at the sailors' fire, and we 
 made our first breakfast on the river with a degree of satis- 
 faction which, even at this distance of time, it is pleasant to 
 recall. 
 
 At ten o'clock Ave were once more in motion, and shortly 
 after came to the Colorado. At the point of junction, 
 fourteen miles above the port, there is a broad reach, and 
 the river at once assumes a more majestic character. As I 
 have already said, the Colorado carries off fully two-thirds 
 of the water of the river, so that no adequate idea of its size 
 and beauty can be formed until the traveller has reached the 
 main body of the stream. Here the banks become higher; 
 the low islands disappear ; and the river is walled in by a 
 dense forest. To avoid the strength of the current, the boat 
 was kept close along the shore, and the long vines, loaded 
 with gay and fragrant flowers, trailed over the chopa as it 
 passed beneath them. Brilliantly-colored birds sparkled in 
 the cool, green coverts, and, for the first time, we saw the 
 ugly iguanas looking curiously down upon us from the pro- 
 
wrr 
 
 100 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 jecting limbs of the trees. They fully answered to Ben's 
 description of very ugly snakes, which Nature, after form- 
 ing the head and tail, had neglected, until it was too late, to 
 roll into shape, giving them afterwards four legs, by way of 
 compensation for her oversight. They abound in Central 
 America, and are to be met with in almost every locality, 
 but are particularly abundant on the San Juan, where they 
 attain to great size. They are of a variety of colors, and 
 the different species (of Avhich there appear to be several,) 
 are distinguished by other peculiarities. Hundreds of small 
 size and bright-green color might be seen clinging to every 
 little branch, or sunning themselves on every old trunk 
 which projected into the stream. When disturbed, they 
 would dash for the shore with great swiftness, literally walk- 
 ing the water. We shot many in our passage, but recovered 
 few, as they are very tenacious of life, and often cling to the 
 trees after they are killed. They are esteemed delicious 
 food, and are eagerly sought by the marineros. I could 
 never bring myself to taste them, although the flesh, alter 
 being cooked, looked sufficiently delicate and inviting. 1 
 do not know how close an anatomical affinity they sustain 
 to the alligator, but their jaws and teeth are much the same, 
 in miniature, and like the alligator they take to the water if 
 closely pressed, when there is no hole or tree in which to find 
 refuge. Their general ugliness is unnecessarily heightened 
 by a kind of crest or integument which runs along the back, 
 from the root of the neck to the tail, and which is elevated 
 when the animal is frightened or enraged. I never overcame 
 my aversion to these reptiles, although I afterwards brought 
 myself to tolerate a colony of them, which had taken up 
 their quarters in the adobe walls of my court-yard in Leon. 
 
 During the day we passed an island near the place of 
 divergence of the Juanillo, upon which an adventurous Nica 
 raguan from the interior had established a plantain-walk. 
 His house was nothing more than a shed, and under it was 
 
mSM S SK&aBMm&^Sms S mS&S&^S SsR W^^^^^^^WW^W^W^^ 
 
 &<#&, 
 
 BATTLE OF SERAPIQUI. 
 
 101 
 
 strung a couple of hammocks, iu which the master and his 
 spouse swung slowly to and fro, complete impersonations of 
 idleness and ease. A couple of naked children were rolling 
 in the sand of the shore, upon which was drawn up a grace- 
 ful canoe, the whole constituting a picture of primitive sim- 
 plicity, to be found nowhere except under the tropics. Our 
 men shouted, and were answered by a couple of wolfish- 
 looking dogs, while the children scampered for the hut in 
 apparent alarm, but neither father nor mother took the 
 trouble to rise. Why should they ? 
 
 That night we came to anchor a few miles below the mouth 
 of the Serapiqui, and next morning passed the spot where the 
 Nicaraguan boatmen had made their stand against the English, 
 after the capture of San Juan. The position was well chosen, 
 at the head of a long reach, where the river takes a sudden 
 bend, and where the hills, for the first time, come down to the 
 water. Here they had cleared off the trees, and with their 
 trunks had constructed a hasty breastwork, fronting the river. 
 This rude fortification was manned by about one hundred and 
 twenty men, some armed with old fowling-pieces, but others 
 having no weapons except their machetes. Thvy had also 
 one or two rusty pieces of artillery, which none of them 
 knew how to use, and with these preparations they awaited 
 the ascent of the English. The latter, made up of three 
 hundred picked men, from the vessels-of-war "Alarm" and 
 "Vixen," in launches carrying guns at their bows, reached 
 this place on the 12th of February, 1848. Thsre could, of 
 course, be but one result. The Nicaraguans were dislodged, 
 with the loss of some fifteen or twenty killed, and about the 
 same number wounded. With an equal force and equip- 
 ments, the issue might have been different. The English 
 commander reported his loss at two killed and fourteen 
 wounded, but the Nicaraguans protest that it was four or 
 five times that number, and the men were anxious to con- 
 vince us of the fact by opening the grave where the English 
 
102 
 
 N IC AR AG U A — N A R R AT [ V E . 
 
 had buried their dead. We did not, however, take interest 
 enough in the matter to stop, and were consequently obliged 
 to keep our doubts, if we entertained any, to ourselves. 
 Certain it is, that the British commander did not include in 
 his statement the loss of Mr. Walker, "British Consul and 
 General Agent on the Mosquito shore," who, with a boon 
 companion, was reported "accidentally drowned." Walker 
 was the most effective agent in getting up the attack on San 
 Juan, and in organizing the British pretensions, being always 
 at hand to manufacture "historical evidence," and his death 
 almost consoled the Nicaraguans for their defeat. Captain 
 Loch was, I believe, promoted for his gallantry, in what the 
 Admiralty termed " the brilliant action of Serapiqui." The 
 whole affair was a wanton act of aggression, and worthy only 
 of pirates. No wonder the sailors hissed "death to the En- 
 glish" through their closed teeth, as we swept past the scene 
 of their humiliation. 
 
 The Serapiqui is a large stream, taking its rise at the base 
 of the great volcano of Cartago, in Costa Kica. It is naviga- 
 ble by bongos for the distance of thirty miles, and is one of 
 the avenues through which the inhabited part of Costa Rica 
 is reached from the coast. Flowing wholly to the eastward 
 of the mountains, where the rains fall during the entire year, 
 the volume of water in this river is very constant. It is 
 probably the largest tributary of the San Juan. There is a 
 small spot of ground partially cleared at its mouth, where 
 some families had established themselves previous to the 
 English troubles. Upon the seizure of San Juan, they aban- 
 doned their plantations and moved into the interior; and 
 so rapid is the progress of vegetation and the course of decay, 
 that their rude dwellings have entirely disappeared, and no 
 trace of former occupation is left, except a few j^lantain trees 
 struggling above the rank grass and undergrowth which have 
 since sprung up. 
 
 We passed the mouth of the Rio San Francisco during the 
 
kSJgSg: iftsFal SS&Mv wEmSSkMbc C3lSlC3C38SB'oElBlBiTO3feftBEfE jBMKBrawj^WHBw^^^Br^ 
 
 HILLS OF SAN CARLOS. 
 
 103 
 
 afternoon, and spent our third night above " Kemolino 
 (Jrande," where rock first appears in the bank of the river. 
 This name is given to a whirlpool caused by the abrupt turn- 
 ing of the stream, which is here somewhat confined by its 
 unyielding banks. Up to this time we had accomplished 
 only about thirty miles of our voyage, and the easiest por 
 lion, for the current above is stronger, and we were now 
 approaching the rapids, where progress against the stream is 
 slow and difficult. 
 
 
 VIEW ON THE SAN JUAN; THE It ILL? OF SAN CARLOS. 
 
 The next day we came to where the banks of the river 
 were higher than we had yet seen, and where the scenery 
 became, if possible, more beautiful than before. I never 
 wearied in gazing upon the dense masses of foliage that 
 literally embowered the river, and which, in the slanting 
 light, produced those magical effects of shadow on water, 
 
104 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 which the painter delights to represent. We this day caught 
 occasional glimpses of the high hills at the junction of the 
 San Carlos with the San Juan, where the latter breaks 
 through the barrier which shuts in the great basin of Nicara- 
 gua on the east. The afternoon was rainy, and heavy 
 thunder-storms swept over as we approached the highlands. 
 The marincros, nevertheless, seemed to relish the change, and 
 pulled at the oars with renewed vigor. Just before sunset, 
 however, the rains stopped, and as the atmosphere cleared, 
 we found that we were at the mouth of the San Carlos, a 
 broad and long stream, which, like the Serapiqui, takes its 
 rise at the base of the volcano of Cartago, in Costa Rica. 
 This stream, Pedro informed us, brings down immense 
 quantities of volcanic sand, ashes, and decomposed scoriaceous 
 materials, which it deposits at various points, forming what 
 appear to be smooth sand-bars. The material, however, is 
 so soft and yielding, that whoever ventures upon it, sinks at 
 once to his middle. Near the mouth of this stream is one 
 of the largest and most beautiful islands to be found in the 
 river ; and, as we approached, two manitees, feeding amongst 
 the grass on its shores, plunged their unwieldy bulks heavily 
 in the water. Above the island is the pass in the hills to 
 which I have alluded, and which reminded me of the entrance 
 of the highlands of the Hudson from the north. The moun- 
 tains, upon the left, come boldly down to the water, and their 
 tops were wrapped in clouds, lending to them the grandeur 
 which in some degree always pertains to the vague and 
 unknown. Here the river is much compressed, and the 
 current deep and strong, requiring the utmost exertions of 
 the men to carry the boat against it. With darkness came 
 the rain again, and thunder-storm after thunder-storm rolled 
 heavily along the heights of San Carlos. At times the moun- 
 tain summits were literally wrapped in fire, and they seemed 
 trembling to their very bases under the reverberating peals 
 of thunder. None but those who have witnessed a tropical 
 

 MELCIIORA INDIANS. 
 
 105 
 
 storm can fully appreciate Byron's magnificent description, 
 or understand the terrible majesty of this elemental warfare. 
 I slept but little that night, and shall never forget the excite- 
 ment, novel and pleasurable, which I experienced under 
 these new and singular circumstances. Towards morning I 
 fell asleep, and was only awakened by Ben's call to break- 
 fast, — broiled ham, fried plantains, bread, and chocolate. 
 
 From the mouth of the San Carlos to the first rapids, those 
 of Machuca, the river seemed to increase in beauty. The 
 banks were higher and firmer, and hills appeared, at inter- 
 vals, in the background. The country here is evidently 
 one well adapted for cultivation, and must ultimately become 
 populated. At present a few Melchora Indians roam through 
 its forests, deriving their support from the river and its tri- 
 butaries. They are generally very shy of the boats, and 
 retire upon their approach. One or two families, however, 
 have overcome their fears, and from their communication 
 with the boatmen, have picked up sufficient Spanish to enable 
 them to carry on a broken conversation. Two of these 
 Indians, an old man and a boy, came to us in their canoe, 
 and offered some dried pieces of a large fish, which abounds 
 in the rivers, called Savalo, in exchange for bread, plantains, 
 or any other articles which the sailors might have to spare. 
 Both were naked, and the old man was wrinkled and droop- 
 ing, his gray hair matted on his head and shoulders, while 
 the boy was lithe, bright, and sleek as a young panther. 
 They looked curiously at our party, and frequently ex- 
 claimed, blancos, blancos, whites, whites! I gave them some 
 fish-hooks, in return for which they insisted on my receiving 
 a portion of their dried fish. Pedro endeavored to make 
 them understand that we were from " El Norte," — but they 
 knew nothing of El Norte, and only shook their heads. 
 They stand in great dread of firearms, as they have been 
 wantonly shot at by passengers ascending or descending the 
 river. And when they glanced under the chopa, and caught 
 14 
 
106 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 sight of our armament, they pushed off hastily into the 
 stream ; the boy standing in the bow, and striking with his 
 paddle alternately on one side and the other, while the old 
 man guided the boat. I did not succeed in procuring any 
 words of the vocabulary of these Indians, but they are un- 
 doubtedly of Carib stock. 
 
 The rapids of Machuca, which derive their name from 
 Capt. Diego Machuca, who explored this river in 1529, are 
 the first and most formidable on the river. The bed of the 
 stream, for nearly a mile, is full of rocks and stones, between 
 which the water rushes witlj. great force. The boats, in as- 
 cending, are kept close in the right shore, and are poled up, 
 slowly and with great difficulty. In descending they are 
 often kept near the middle of the stream, down which they 
 come, glancing between the rocks with the rapidity of an 
 arrow. In descending, in June, 1850, my bongo, which 
 obeyed the rudder very imperfectly, struck with immense 
 force, and got jammed between the rocks, with its broadside 
 to the current, where we remained for thirty hours, until 
 literally dragged out by the united crews of six boats, after 
 half a day of incessant labor. The boat was of great strength, 
 or it must inevitably have gone to pieces. Such accidents 
 are not of frequent occurrence, as the marineros are extremely 
 expert in the management of their bongos. We were four 
 hours in passing the Machuca. From thence to the llapides 
 del Mico and los Yalos, the current is strong, but the channel 
 is free. These rapids are short, and less difficult to over- 
 come than those of Machuca. It is nevertheless a slow and 
 laborious task to make their ascent; and until they are im- 
 proved by art, they must always be great obstacles to the 
 navigation of the river. At present the steamer " Orus," 
 sent out by the "American Atlantic and Pacific Ship Canal 
 Company," lies a wreck on the rocks of Machuca. 
 
 On the morning of the 17th of June we made the Raj tides 
 del Castillo, commanded by the ancient fort of San Juan. 
 
■9HD^^HMM|H IMHi : w^^p^^mfwt^ 
 

 EL CASTILLO VIEJO. 
 
 107 
 
 now called the Castillo Viejo, " Old Castle," We had looked 
 forward to our arrival here with great interest, not less on 
 account of the historical associations connected with the 
 place, than because, from hence to the lake, the passage is 
 quick and comparatively easy. The morning was wet and 
 gloomy, and altogether the most forbidding of any we hud 
 yet encountered, hardly excepting that on which we ha I 
 made the coast, in the execrable little Francis. I neverthe- 
 less put on my water-proof poncho, and took my seat by the 
 side of Pedro, on the pineta. 
 
 A league below the fort we passed the island of Bartola, 
 on which, beneath the dense verdure, we could discover 
 traces of the ancient advance works of the fortress. It was 
 here the English buried their men who were killed, or died 
 of disease during the memorable but fruitless expedition 
 against Nicaragua, in 1780, under the command of Colonel 
 Poison, and Captain, afterwards Lord, Nelson. This island 
 was carried by Nelson, who here distinguished himself for 
 the first time. 
 
 Passing the island, we came to a broad and beautiful reach 
 in the river, at the head of which, upon a commanding emi- 
 nence, rise the walls of the Castillo. The hill resembles that 
 of Chapultepec, near Mexico ; is equally bold, and has been 
 scarped to the steepness and regularity of the pyramids. The 
 sides are now covered with bushes, and matted over with 
 vines, but the walls still frown gloomily above the mass of 
 verdure. At the foot, and nearly on the level of the water, 
 is what is called the " PlaJforma" where were the ancient 
 water-batteries. It is now occupied by a few thatched 
 houses, — the quarters of a small garrison kept here by the 
 Nicaraguan government, as an evidence of oeeupancy, and to 
 assist boats in passing the rapids of the Castle, which, al- 
 though narrow, are very powerful, and better deserving the 
 name of falls than rapids. Here the boats have to be 
 "tracked up" by sheer force; and it is usual for all pas- 
 
wrr 
 
 108 
 
 NIC AR AG U A — NAR R ATI VE. 
 
 sengers to land, and to lighten the boat in every way'possi- 
 ble. It is often necessary to take out a considerable part of 
 the freight, or to wait for the arrival of another boat, so as 
 to join forces in making the ascent. 
 
 Arrived in the eddy below the " Platforma," M. and my- 
 self bestrid the shoulders of our men, and were deposited 
 on shore. We started at once for the castle, by a path 
 which the garrison, under express orders from the govern- 
 ment, kept clear of bushes. I glanced into one of the huts 
 as I passed, but saw nothing beyond a very pretty yellow 
 girl, swinging slowly to and fro in a hammock, with one 
 naked leg hanging indolently over the side. She threw 
 aside her long black curls, but, without changing her posi- 
 tion, exclaimed, " Adios, California!" A party of outward- 
 bound Californians had spent a number of days here, a few 
 weeks previously, and had evidently been on familiar terms 
 with the seilora. 
 
 The ascent to the castle was very steep and slippery from 
 the rain, which had fallen uninterruptedly all the morning. 
 A wide and deep fosse ran around the brow of the hill, with 
 perpendicular escarpments, which we crossed on a narrow 
 causeway, evidently of comparatively recent construction. 
 If the work seemed imposing from the river, how much 
 more impressive was it when we looked down from its walls 
 into two tiers of chambers sunk in the rock, and in which 
 tall trees were growing, their topmost branches scarcely 
 reaching to the level on which we stood. We descended by 
 a bomb-proof stairway to the bottom, into what had been the 
 magazine, and into the rocky chambers where the ancient 
 garrison had been quartered, more than ever impressed with 
 the daring and energy of those iron men who had subverted 
 the empires of Montezuma and the Incas ; and who, within 
 fifty years after the Discovery, had traversed every part 
 of the continent, from California to La Plata. We went 
 into the chapel ; there was the niche in which had stood the 
 

 EL CASTILLO VIEJO. 
 
 109 
 
 cross, and an effigy of " Xuestra Madre de Mercedes,'' " Our 
 Mother of Mercy," and beneath it was the font for holding 
 the holy water. By a passage, protected from shot, we as- 
 cended to what is called the tower, — a solid mass of masonry, 
 rising some sixty feet above the lower works, with a parapet 
 embrasured for twelve guns, and now almost as solid and 
 substantial as if built but yesterday. In this climate, where 
 the great corrodent, frost, never reaches, the durability of 
 good masonry is almost incredible. The floor of the tower, 
 with the exception of the centre, which had been broken, 
 probably under the impression that treasure might be con- 
 cealed there, was as smooth and firm as ever. Upon the 
 western side of the work was the main entrance, the massive 
 buttresses which supported the drawbridge, and a glacis, 
 subsiding to a terrace, which had been the parade ground, 
 garden, and cemetery of the garrison. All around the work 
 on this side was an arched way, and immediately facing the 
 draw, and firmly imbedded in the masonry of the tower, a 
 block of stone, bearing a long inscription, but too much de- 
 faced to be perfectly made out. Its purport, however, is, 
 that the castle was reconstructed, under royal orders, by the 
 Governor Intendant of Nicaragua and Costa Eica, for the 
 defence of the river, in 1747. How long previously works 
 had existed there is now unknown, — probably from the mid- 
 dle of the sixteenth century. Great but ineffective efforts had 
 evidently been made to dislodge or remove this stone, which 
 bears too potential evidence against the pretensions of one 
 " J. Bull," to be regarded with favor by any in his interest. 
 
 On the north-western bastion of the fort and looking both 
 up and down the river, stands a sentinel's box of stone, and 
 close beside it, firmly fixed in the walls, the stump of the 
 ancient flag-staff. Within the box were yet to be seen the 
 grooves which the muskets of the sentinels had worn in the 
 stone. We thrust our heads through the windows, but saw 
 nothing except Pedro and his men, some to their shoulders 
 
no 
 
 NIC AR AGU A — NA LI RATI V K. 
 
 in the water, pushing up "La Granadina," and others tug- 
 ging at the rope attached to her bows. 
 
 This fort was captured by the English on the 29th of April, 
 1780. The plan of the expedition was formed by Gen. Sir 
 John Dalling, 1 and had for its object to get possession of Lake 
 Nicaragua, and the cities of Leon and Granada, and thus to cut 
 
 *lES>il 
 
 i^f >, 
 
 t* E X T I N E 1. S 1! X A T T UK C A .< T I h 1. VIE J . 
 
 off communication between the northern and southern Span- 
 ish possessions in America. The land forces were commanded 
 by Colonel Poison, under whose orders Captain Nelson, then 
 in command of the ship "Hinchinbrook," acted. The Span- 
 
 1 Clark and McArthur's Life of Nelson, vol. p. 32. 
 
H&?,$fiifjr& 
 
 W^SSfmf^SfmSSISi jSSf^SSSBSSSS^^^mS *m 
 
 A PASSAGE IN HISTORY. 
 
 Ill 
 
 isli garrison consisted of two hundred and twenty-eight men, 
 under the command of Juan de Ayssa. Notwithstanding 
 the overwhelmingly superior force of the English, the siege 
 was a protracted one. The castle was finally brought to 
 terms by the English obtaining possession of a hill command- 
 ing it in the rear. By the terms of capitulation, " in con- 
 sideration of the gallant defence of the fort," the garrison 
 was permitted to march out with colors flying, drums beat- 
 ing, with lighted matches, muskets and sidearms, and to be 
 furnished with vessels and provisions to convey them to any 
 port of Spain in America which might be agreed upon. 1 This 
 triumph was dearly purchased, and was productive of no 
 good results. The entire expedition was a failure, and is 
 passed over very lightly in the English annals. Of the two 
 hundred men comprising the crew of Nelson's vessel, but ten 
 survived the expedition, and he himself narrowly escaped 
 death. In January, 1781, the English abandoned the castle, 
 and withdrew to Jamaica. Collingwood apologises for the 
 failure of the expedition, on the ground that "it was formed 
 without a sufficient knowledge of the country, and presented 
 difficulties not to be surmounted by human skill and perse- 
 verance. It was dangerous to proceed on the river, from the 
 rapidity of the current, and the numerous falls over rocks 
 which intercepted the navigation ; the climate, too, was dead- 
 \y, and no constitution could resist its effects." 2 
 
 Some conception of the difficulty of ascending the rapids 
 of the Castillo may be formed from the fact, that it required 
 the utmost exertion of our men, for nearly three hours, to 
 get "La Granadina," with no freight, past them. The boat 
 once up, the crew made breakfast; and after glancing over 
 the list of the Californian party, who had not neglected to 
 
 ' Beatson's "Naval and Military Memoirs of Great Britain," vol. v. p. 
 97, and vol. vi. p. 230. 
 
 2 Memoirs, 5th ed., vol. i. p. 10. 
 
112 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 iuscribe their names conspicuously on the walls of the fori, 
 we descended, thoroughly drenched with the rain. I had 
 
 the toothache, and M • the rheumatism, for a week, "by 
 
 way of improvement" on our visit to the Castillo. The 
 commandant of the garrison, having found out who were his 
 visitors, was there to receive us; and from him we learned 
 that we were expected in the interior, and that instructions 
 had gone out from the government to all its officers to treat 
 us with every possible respect, and to afford every facility 
 to our progress. He had accordingly come to put himself 
 "at our disposition." Being hungry, the colloquy took 
 place, on the part of the representative of El Norte, in the 
 intervals which could be spared from Ben's broiled ham and 
 coffee. For an appetite, and a corresponding contempt for 
 etiquette, I recommend a three hours' visit to the Castillo 
 Viejo, before breakfast. 
 
 A few miles above the Rapides del Castillo, are the Rapides 
 del Tore, which, however, are not strong, and are easily 
 passed. Beyond these the river becomes of very nearly 
 uniform width, and flows with a deep, regular current. This 
 part of the stream is, in fact, a kind of estuary, or extension 
 of Lake Nicaragua. The banks are low, and the feathery 
 palm again appears lining the shores. The whole country 
 on both shores, for a long distance back, is swampy, and in 
 parts covered with water in the rainy season. Quite a num- 
 ber of sluggish streams, nevertheless, flow through it, whose 
 names indicate the character of their banks and the surround- . 
 ing country. There is the Rio Palo del Arco, " Arched with 
 Trees;" the Rio Poco Sol, "Little Sun;" Rio Roblito, Mos- 
 quito, etc. 
 
 It was on the morning of the sixth day after our departure 
 from San Juan, that the boat was pushed in to the low bank 
 for breakfast, at a point but five miles below the Fort of San 
 Carlos, situated at the head of the river, on the lake. Myri- 
 ads of water-fowl lined the shores, and never so much as 
 
m^^M M^S l ^^^^m SSB f^S l ^^m^^^^S^ H3 
 
 THE FORT OF SAN CARLOS. 
 
 113 
 
 moved from the trees above us while we breakfasted. 
 Among them Ben discovered a majestic black eagle, which 
 he shot. The bird fell near us, but as we approached him, 
 he threw himself on his back, with open beak, fierce eve, and 
 threatening talons, defiant to the last. I would have given 
 more than one hard dollar to have undone the wanton act, 
 and sent the proud bird unharmed once more, free to his 
 native mountains. 
 
 Although the novelty of our ascent, (ninety miles in six 
 days, think of that, ye voyagers on the Hudson or our west- 
 ern rivers ! ) had in some degree compensated for its tedious- 
 ness, and we had "put in" the time rather agreeably than 
 otherwise, yet it was with unqualified satisfaction that Ave 
 learned that we had nearly passed the river. We were impa- 
 tient to look upon the great lake, of which the world had 
 heard so much but knew so little, and thought our progress, 
 over the intervening five miles, unaccountably slow. At 
 eleven o'clock, however, upon passing a large island, the 
 river opened in a broad reach, and we saw before us the waters 
 of the lake. A commanding eminence, cleared of trees, and 
 surmounted by a few houses and a flag-staff, rose where the 
 lake terminated and the river commenced. The men seemed 
 hardly less pleased than ourselves; but after pulling with 
 great energy for a few minutes, suddenly stopped, and simul- 
 taneously plunged overboard. We had become accustomed 
 to all sorts of fantastic freaks, and contented ourselves 
 with looking on without asking questions. After paddling 
 about for a while, they clambered aboard, and then com- 
 menced a grand hunt for the clothes which had been so 
 summarily laid aside when we left San Juan. These were 
 dragged to light from all conceivable out-of-the-way nooks, 
 and directly the whole crew was dressed in clean attire, 
 which made us quite ashamed of our soiled garments. The 
 economy, not to say the convenience, of going naked, for 
 the purpose of keeping one's clothes clean, was never more 
 15 
 
114 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 manifest. Pedro insisted on having the flag unfurled from 
 the pineta, and before we had got within a mile from the 
 fort, produced his conch-shell, and blew an awful blast upon 
 it. A few figures appeared on the hill near the flag-staff, 
 and directly the blue and white flag of Nicaragua, with an 
 oval in the centre, containing three volcanoes and the rising 
 sun, was run to its top. The roll of a drum, and the glanc- 
 ing of polished arms in the sun, showed us that we were 
 recognized, and made us more than ever ashamed of our 
 shabby exteriors. But what was to be done? Our trunks 
 were wedged immovably beneath us, and if once dragged 
 out, to our future eminent discomfort, where and how could 
 we make our toilet? Besides we had no time for operations, 
 the men were pulling with all their force, and we were 
 
 rapidly nearing the fort. M , with one foot wrapped in 
 
 a napkin, (a nigua had unluckily escaped detection at San 
 Juan,) proposed that we should throw our gutta percha 
 ponchos over our garments, and decline going on shore, as the 
 only feasible means of keeping up appearances. This was 
 hardly agreed upon and done, before "La Granadina" dashed 
 round the point, and up to the landing of San Carlos. The 
 commandante and his subordinates, in full uniform, the offi- 
 cers of the Aduana or Custom-House, and a large deputation 
 of the people, were all on the beach to receive us, which they 
 did with a storm of vivas, and before we had well recovered 
 from our surprise, a canoe was placed alongside, and the first 
 Alcalde desired us to land. We were, of course, extremely 
 obliged, but preferred to remain on board, as we should pro- 
 ceed at once. Pedro spoiled this by saying that he must 
 ship his masts here, and that his men must eat, and we knew 
 this double performance was good for five or six hours. So, 
 trusting to the impenetrable ponchos, we got into the canoe, 
 and were guided to the shore. We did not feel particularly 
 imposing while receiving the congratulations of our new 
 friends, and at once accepted the proposal of the commandante 
 
^^^^mmmm^^S S ^^^^^^^M H 
 
 THE COMMANDANTE S HOUSE. 
 
 115 
 
 to go to his house, which was airily situated at the top of 
 the hill, and within what had been part of the ancient de- 
 fences. Here about twenty-five men, composing the garrison, 
 were drawn up, who presented arms as we passed. 
 
 The commandante's house, like all the rest, was composed 
 of a substantial frame- work of timber ; the sides were made 
 of canes netted together, the roof was thatched, and the floor 
 the natural earth, excepting that of one room, which was 
 paved with brick tiles. A number of pigeons were billing 
 and cooing in a snug place under the eaves ; an exceedingly 
 quiet hen sat brooding beneath a table in one corner of the 
 principal room, and through an opening in a cloth parti- 
 tion, we caught sight of a pretty bed, with snow-white cur- 
 tains, with a gaudy palm mattress spread in front, on which 
 a full-sized, voluptuously-shaped young woman was playfully 
 tossing a naked infant, some six months old, which crowed 
 in very glee, while a young, clumsy little dog leaped around 
 the child, and barked asthmatically from sheer sympathy. 
 The cool wind rustled amidst the palm thatch, while the 
 sunlight stole in checkered mazes between the woven canes. 
 Altogether the scene, combining so much of simplicity and 
 novelty, impressed me more than any I had ever witnessed. 
 I forgot, for the moment, that I was keeping my host stand- 
 ing, and that the servant was holding the hammock, which 
 invariably swings in every dwelling, open for my reception. 
 I apologized, while the little garrison, bringing their arms to 
 shoulder with a clang, defiled before the door, the officer 
 saluting us in a most formal manner. Our host was anxious 
 to have us remove our ponchos, and seemed puzzled at our 
 pertinacity in keeping them on. By-and-by, however, they 
 became insupportably hot, and, as the best way of getting 
 out of them and a scrape together, I frankly told the whole 
 story of our dilemma, and dragged off the abominations. I 
 fear " El Norte '' did not cut a very imposing figure, under the 
 close scrutiny to which he was subjected. 
 
116 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 The conimandante insisted on our dining, and we had no 
 indisposition to do him the favor, — particularly as we had 
 ocular demonstration, in the flitches of dried meat, the lus- 
 cious-looking plantains, and other edibles, which hung from 
 the rafters, (not less than in the person of our rotund host, 
 whose uniform was strained to the utmost limit in the but- 
 toning,) that his larder was well supplied, and the wants of 
 the inner man properly cared for. Preparatory to taking 
 a walk through the little village, which the conimandante 
 told us was "muy pobre," very poor, we all took a drop of 
 brand}-, to his toast complimentary to us, and " to the Presi- 
 dent of the United States," " Kl Esclarecido General Taylor." 
 
 I have said that the house of the conimandante stood within 
 the ancient outworks of the strong fort of San Carlos. 
 The rocky summit of the point had been smoothed, and the 
 slopes scarped, so as to render ascent difficult, if not imprac- 
 ticable. A battery, which raked the river for a mile, once 
 existed here ; but the few rusty guns which remain are more 
 formidable in appearance than in fact. The fort itself, which 
 formerly communicated with this battery by a covered way, 
 stands some distance back, on the highest point of land in 
 the vicinity. It was very strong, but is now in complete 
 decay, and covered with large trees and bushes, so as to be 
 entirely hidden from view. Within it we observed many 
 very heavy pieces of ordnance, some of which were cast in 
 Manilla, and trees were growing up through heaps of rusty 
 cannon-balls. The position completely commands the en- 
 trance to the lake, and from the nature of the surrounding 
 country must have been nearly impregnable. 
 
 The present town of San Carlos consists only of some 
 twenty cane or board houses, occupied chiefly by the officers 
 of the customs, and the soldiers with their families. Since 
 the seizure of San Juan, the customs on goods entering the 
 State, via that port, have been collected here. This circum- 
 stance, together with the fact that all the boats passing 
 
^m %®$f&> HHHH %$9$!<%!*P$ ^W^^l ■HHHMI %$?% 
 
 RIO FRIO — GUATOSOS INDIANS. 
 
 117 
 
 through the river stop here to unship or resume their masts, 
 and renew their supplies, makes it a place of some importance. 
 It is delightfully situated, and from the corridor of the com- 
 mandant's house, one of the finest views in the world is pre- 
 sented to the traveller. The broad lake spreads like a mir- 
 ror in front, its opposite shores marked by the regular vol- 
 canic peaks of Orosi, Madeira, and Ometepec, capped with 
 clouds, which rise dim and blue in the distance. Nearer 
 lie the fairy-looking islands of La Bocpaeta, golden under 
 the tropical sun, while in the foreground the emerald shores 
 stretch their wide arms on either side, a fit setting for so 
 gorgeous a picture. Immediately opposite the town, flow- 
 ing into the lake, within a few rods of where the San Juan 
 flows out, is the Rio Frio, Cold River, whence the water for 
 consumption in the village is brought. The sources of this 
 river have never been explored, but they are supposed to be 
 somewhere in the mountains of Costa Rica. 
 
 A tribe of Indians, called the Guatosos, who hold no com- 
 munication with the whites, inhabit its hanks, and resist all 
 attempts at exploration. The late commandante of the fort, 
 Don Trinidad Salazar, endeavored to ascend the stream a 
 few months previously to our arrival ; but on the sixth day 
 he was interrupted by a large body of Indians, and after a 
 sharp contest, in which he was severely wounded, was com- 
 pelled to retreat. He subsequently gave me a glowing account 
 of the beauty of the stream, and the fertility and luxuriance 
 of its shores. It has a depth of two fathoms of water, for a 
 distance of forty miles above its mouth, and from his account, 
 it could probably be navigated by steamers for twice that 
 distance. The fact that a stream of this size, and the wide 
 extent of country around it, are wholly unknown, would 
 seem to show how much remains to be discovered in Central 
 America, and how broad afield it holds out for enterprise and 
 adventure. 
 
 Between the mouth of the Rio Frio and the source of the 
 
WW 
 
 118 
 
 NIC ARAG UA — NAK RATI VE. 
 
 San Juan, is a broad sand-bar, which, seems to be a grand 
 sunning-ground for alligators. Hundreds congregate here 
 during the dry season, when the bar is exposed, and they 
 appear to have an exceedingly good time of it. We could 
 distinctly see their ugly, black carcasses from the com- 
 m andante's corridor ; and our host showed us a basket of 
 their teeth, which he had picked up on the bar, and which 
 were more pleasant to contemplate in that condition, than 
 when adorning the jaws of the living reptile. 
 
 A French officer, in the Nicaraguan service, (who was 
 foolish enough to take part against the government in an 
 attempted revolution shortly after, and got shot for his pains,) 
 gave us some facts relative to alligators, of which we were 
 previously ignorant. Those most satisfactory were that they 
 occasionally have terrible fights among themselves, in which 
 many get killed, and that the males destroy all the eggs of 
 the females they can find, besides, Saturndike, eating up all 
 the young ones they can catch. We only regretted that they 
 were not more successful in their amiable attentions to their 
 own progeny. 
 
 THE IGUANA. 
 
mm jgj«ig|jB M^ 
 
 CHAPTER IV, 
 
 SAN CARLOS DINNER AT THE COMMANDANTE S INTRODUCTION TO " TORTIL- 
 LAS Y 1 RIJOLES" A SIESTA — NEWS OF THE ATTEMPTED REVOLUTION AN- 
 TICIPATING EVENTS, AND WHAT HAPPENED TO THE COMMANDANTE AFTER WE 
 
 LEFT DEPARTURE UNDER A MILITARY SALVO VIEW OF SAN CARLOS FROM 
 
 THE LAKE LAKE NAVIGATION CARD PLAYING GORGEOUS SUNSET A MID- 
 NIGHT STORM SAN MICUELITO, AND TnE " BATn OF THE NAIDEs" PRIMI- 
 TIVE SIMPLICITY A DAY ON THE LAKE " EL PEDERNAL" A BATH WITH 
 
 ALLIGATORS AN " EMPACIIo'" A TRIAL AT MEDICINE, AND GREAT SUCCESS — 
 
 SECOND NIGHT ON THE LAKE THE VOLCANOES OF MOMOBACHO, OMETEPEC, AND 
 
 MADEIRA VOLCANIC SCENERY TnE COAST OF CnONTALES THE CREW ON 
 
 POLITICS " TIMBUCOS" AND " CALANDRACAS," OR A GLANCE AT PARTY DI- 
 VISIONS ARRIVAL AT " LOS CORALEs" SOME ACCOUNT OF THEM ALARMING 
 
 NEWS A COUNCIL OF WAR — FAITH IN THE UNITED STATES FLAG THE ISLAND 
 
 OF CUBI MORE NEWS, AND A RETURN OF TnE " EMPACno" DISTANT VIEW OF 
 
 GRANADA MAKING A TOILETTE — BEES ARRIVAL AT THE RUINED FORT OF 
 
 GRANADA HOW THEY LAND TOERE SENSATION AMONGST THE SPECTATORS 
 
 ENTRANCE TO THE CITY — TnE ABANDONED CONVENT OF SAN FRANCISCO THE 
 
 HOUSES OF THE INHABITANTS FIRST IMPRESSIONS SOLDIERS AND BARRI- 
 CADES THRONGED STREETS SENOR DON FREDERICO DERBYSHIRE — " OUR 
 
 HOST" A WELCOME OFFICIAL COURTESIES OUR QUARTERS FIRST NIGHT 
 
 IN GRANADA. 
 
 Two hours sufficed to exhaust the lions of San Carlos, in- 
 cluding the arsenal, which was a cane hut, with a quantity of 
 powder in kegs, piled in the middle and covered with hides ; 
 two pieces of artillery, and a hundred stand of arms, over 
 all of which a single sentinel kept watch, and the public 
 warehouse or bodega, which was nothing more than a great 
 shed, with convenient hammocks for its idle guardians, — we 
 saw all these before two o'clock, at which hour dinner was 
 
120 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 served in the commandante's house. The table-cloth was 
 unimpeachably white, and the service altogether neat and 
 ample. It was clearly the intention of our host to do his 
 best; even the pigeons seemed impressed with the idea that 
 something extraordinary was going on, and the hen in the 
 corner was nervous with excitement in view of the display. 
 All the juvenile population of the place, if possible still more 
 airily dressed than the urchins at San Juan, crowded round 
 the doors, (they had followed us, at a distance, during our 
 peregrinations), and regarded the whole affair with evident 
 admiration-. A number of their seniors, comprising the more 
 respectable part of the inhabitants, arrayed for the occasion, 
 in snow-white shirts and pantaloons, each with white buck- 
 skin shoes, and a red sash, now made their appearance, and 
 were collectively and individually introduced, to the renewal 
 of our mortification on the score of dress. 
 
 We sat- down at the table, which was placed so as to give 
 me the seat of honor in the hammock, while the comman- 
 dante and his lieutenant, took, respectively, the head and loot. 
 They declined to eat, devoting themselves wholly to supply- 
 ing their guests. This, we afterwards learned, was Nicaraguan 
 etiquette, when special distinction was intended to be con- 
 veyed. We were now, for the first time, introduced to the 
 eternal tortilla and the omnipresent frijoles, to say nothing of 
 the endless variety of dulces (sweet meals), Cor which all 
 Spanish America is famous. We commenced with beef, cul- 
 minated over chicken, and finished with oranges, bananas, 
 coffee, and cigars; with a pleasant stomachic; conviction that 
 good dinners Avere not incompatible with cancdiuts, brood- 
 ing hens in the corners, and amative pigeons under the 
 eaves ! We were anxious to see the seiiorita, of whom we had 
 had a glimpse on our arrival, and whose low, laughing voice 
 we occasionally heard through the cloth partition; but this 
 was a delicate point, which we were cautious in touching 
 upon, since M had found out that the commandante was a 
 
GnHHHHHHHBi f0^0 [ ^^p3^^^M : H&PP^ ~ fW^^mri 
 
 NEWS OF THE REVOLUTION. 
 
 121 
 
 bachelor. All, commandante ! I may have been mistaken, 
 but I feel very sure it was a large black eye which I caught 
 merry glances of through a small rent in that cloth partition! 
 A siesta was strongly commended to us after dinner, and 
 hammocks were strung for the whole party. It was indis- 
 pensable, our host told us, in this climate, and he wondered 
 how it could be omitted in El Norte. Life, in his opinion, 
 without a siesta after dinner, must soon become a wearisome 
 affair, — and he quoted some verses from a native poet which 
 were conelusivc on the subject; so we yielded, and lay 
 down; the people left, the doors were closed, and all was 
 silent — even the pigeons were still. Two hours passed in a 
 dreamy, pleasurable way, with just enough of consciousness 
 to enjoy the mingled sensation of novelty and ease, when 
 Ben came to apprise us that the boat was ready, and the 
 crew on board. Our host pressed us to stay until the next 
 morning, but the wind and weather were fair; and, although 
 the temptation was strong, we adhered to our first inten- 
 tions, and were deaf to argument. Before leaving, I in- 
 quired about the revolution of which we had heard so much 
 at Sati Juan, but got no very satisfactory information. There 
 had been an " escaramuza," a scrimmage, at Granada, and a 
 lawless, reckless fellow, under proscription for murder, named 
 Somoza, had collected together a party of adherents, and 
 sacked the city of Rivas or Nicaragua. The commandante 
 was certain that peace and order were by this time restored ; 
 but if they were not, our arrival would certainly produce 
 quiet. The commandante hardly thought that the same 
 robber chief, of whom he spoke so lightly, would pay him a 
 visit within a fortnight, and carry him off a prisoner! But 
 so it proved to be; and although our commandante effected 
 his escape, at imminent peril, through a wilderness, unarmed 
 and alone, yet he was suspected of cowardice, imprisoned, and 
 court-martialed. lie came out safely, however, a shade less 
 rotund perhaps, " a wiser if not a better man;" and before I 
 16 
 
122 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 left the country I had the satisfaction of seeing him reinstated 
 at the fort, fat, happy, and hospitable as ever. The dark-eyed 
 seilorita was there too. 
 
 At five o'clock we embarked, for the first time, on Lake 
 Nicaragua. The people all came to bid us good-bye ; and 
 one old man insisted upon a parting embrace. Like the pro- 
 phet of old, he said he was now ready to die, for he knew 
 that his country was safe beneath the guardianship of the 
 Republic of the North. We pushed off under a torrent of 
 vivas, and a feu dejoie was fired by the little garrison, which 
 Ben efficiently returned with his double-barrelled gun, while 
 Pedro blew another nerve-cracking blast on his conch — that 
 awful conch ! The view of San Carlos, from the lake, was 
 picturesque in the extreme, and the accompanying sketch of 
 it will be sufficiently curious twenty years hence, when it 
 shall have become, as it inevitably will, a large and im- 
 portant town. Already a steamer plies regularly between 
 San Carlos and Granada; and the alligators, disturbed in 
 their slumbers on the sand-bar, by its plashing wheels and 
 noisy engine, are meditating a grand migration into the coun- 
 try of the Guatosos. 
 
 The faintest of all zephyrs was dying away on the lake 
 when we started, yet we had not gone half a mile before the 
 oars were drawn aboard, and a hug.; triangular sail spread 
 from the newly-rigged mast. The breeze was hardly strong 
 enough to fill it; and the boat dawdled, rather than moved, 
 through the water. We expostulated with Pedro ; but it 
 was useless; the marineros never did row while there was 
 the least apology for a wind abroad, and the " demonio" him- 
 self couldn't make them. So Pedro lit his cigar, while the 
 men produced a pack of cards, and commenced a game, 
 novel enough to us, in which it was the privilege of the win- 
 ner to pinch, beat, and otherwise maltreat the loser, who 
 was obliged to submit without resistance, until the spectators 
 pronounced "bastante," enough. One fellow, who was a 
 
W^j&ffit £*f#t&*3 - $ :^f &| %t0%0ffi, ""■■■ HHH| J&*&$$^$$^ 
 
H^HHHHHHHhHHI &%&&$0 nHMHHBHHHrai^Hi 
 
 SUNSET ON THE LAKE. 
 
 123 
 
 little rebellious, was incontinently thrust overboard, to the 
 great damage of a gaudy bandana handkerchief which he 
 wore about his head, and to the manifest delectation of the 
 crew, who jibed him unmercifully as a " ladron," and "pi- 
 caro," " a rascal" and "a loafer." 
 
 The sun went down that night directly behind the purple 
 peak of Orosi. The body of the volcano appeared to be a 
 nucleus, whence fan-like rays radiated up to the very zenith, 
 while the yellow light streamed past the mountain upon the 
 lake, in a dazzling flood, in which the islands of Solentenami 
 and La Boqueta seemed to float as in liquid gold. As the 
 sun sank lower, the hues of the heavens changed to crimson, 
 bringing out the palm-trees on the islands in high relief 
 against the sky ; then to purple, and finally to the cool gray 
 of evening, through which the stars shone down with a 
 strange and almost unnatural lustre. The transition was 
 rapid, for here the lingering twilight of northern latitudes is 
 unknown. Our boatmen were not insensible to the almost 
 unearthly beauty of the scene ; and when it all was passed, 
 they began the evening chaunt, 
 
 "Ave Maria purisima," etc. 
 
 the echoes of which were repeated from the shores, until 
 they died away in murmurs in the distance. 
 
 The night was wonderfully still. We could distinctly hear 
 the tinkling of guitars at the fort, at least three miles distant, 
 interrupted by bursts of gay laughter, until a late hour. Be- 
 fore I slunk under the chopa, however, clouds began to 
 gather in the north-east, lighted up momentarily by flashes 
 of lightning, while fitful gusts of wind, veering in every 
 quarter, betokened the approach of a thunder-storm. I 
 nevertheless went to sleep while listening to the distant 
 mutterings of thunder and the dismal howlings of the "mono 
 Colorado," or howling monkey. A little past midnight, 
 
124 
 
 NICARAGUA — N A UK ATI VE. 
 
 however, we were all roused in a summary manner by a 
 dash of water fall in our faces, followed the next instant by 
 the lurching of the boat, which tumbled passengers, arms, 
 books, and whatever was movable, all in a heap together. I 
 disengaged myself in a moment, and scrambled out upon the 
 pineta, where Pedro, clinging to the tiller, was calling fran- 
 tically to the men, who in a confused, shouting mass were 
 clustered around the swaying mast, vainly endeavoring to take 
 in the sail. We were before the wind, which was blowing a 
 hurricane, and going with immense velocity, the hissing \v;i 
 ters rising under our stern, almost to the level of the pineta. 
 Broad sheets of blinding lightning fell around us, followed 
 by deafening peals of thunder, drowning for a moment the 
 roar of the tempest. I had hardly time to comprehend the 
 peril of our situation, with the sail entangled in the ropes, 
 and swaying from side to side, when a flash of lightning 
 revealed to me Ben's stalwart form amongst the frightened 
 marineros. I saw his short Roman sword glance for an 
 instant above their heads, — he had cut the ropes. The sail 
 fell, but was at once dragged aboard, while the relieved boat 
 scudded steadily before the storm, which soon exhausted 
 itself, leaving us drenched and uncomfortable, tossing roughly 
 amongst the waves. The men took to the oars without an 
 order, and in evident relief pulled back towards the course 
 from which avc had been driven. All that night, thunder- 
 storms, like invading columns, swept over the lake around 
 us, but we fell in the course of none of them. They all 
 seemed to linger against the high volcanoes on the opposite 
 shores of the lake, as if they would level in their wrath the 
 daring rocks which opposed their progress. 
 
 The men slept no more that night, but pulled steadily and 
 silently at the oars. Towards morning I crept again under 
 the chopo, and slumbered until roused by the bellowing of 
 cattle, and by the sun shining brilliantly in my face. It was 
 after nine o'clock ; we had passed the islands of La Boqueta, 
 
i?^?$*$? WSMBmBnSti ^^$^$^^00^?^^ BHiHHHI ' Wt 
 
 BAHITA DE SAN' MIGUEL. 
 
 125 
 
 which lay within view, fresh and inviting, exposing under 
 an archway of trees one or two picturesque huts, with canoes 
 drawn up in front of them. We were within a snug 
 little bay, in front of a broad sandy beach, on which the men 
 were kindling fires preparatory to breakfast, while a herd of 
 sleek-looking cattle wandered along the shore, here stooping 
 to drink, and there engaging in mimic fights. Beneath the 
 trees wound back a broad, well-beaten pathway, and beyond 
 we could see the golden tops of palm-trees, the thatched 
 roofs of houses, and hear the crowing of cocks, and the merry 
 sound of infant voices. We were in the " Bahita de San 
 Miguel," the little bay of San Miguel, distant about twenty 
 miles from San Carlos, on the northern shore of the lake. 
 The storm of the preceding night seemed almost like a 
 dream ; could it be possible that a few hours had wrought 
 such a change ? But the tattered sails, and the saturated 
 blankets beneath the chopa, bore testimony to the reality of 
 the storm. In fact, Pedro was yet full of wrath at what he 
 called the stupidity of his men — they were " tontos" all, 
 fools and brutes. I had been as indignant as himself, but 
 was too glad to get out of the scrape safely, to nurse my 
 wrath ; so I poured out for Pedro a gill of brandy in his 
 calabash, which he drank to our good health, and smacking 
 his lips, straightway recovered his temper. 
 
 Directly, a little troop of girls, with purple skirts and 
 white guipils, their long black hair dangling loosely to their 
 waists, and balancing red water-jars on their heads, came 
 laughing down the pathway for water. They appeared to 
 be old friends of our crew, who hailed them gayly with " a 
 Dios, mi alma!" "buena manana, mi corazon !" adieu my 
 soul !" "good morning, my heart!" to which they replied 
 with "comoestan, misnegritos ?" " how are you, my darkeys ?" 
 and other railleries, very much, to our thinking, of the Bowery 
 order. They passed along the shore a little distance, to a 
 clump of bushes, and the next instant we saw them plashing 
 
126 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 like mermaids in the water; while some of our crew, who 
 were throwing a net "for a fry," as Pedro said, tried to 
 frighten them by shouting "lagartos, lagartos!" "alligators, 
 alligators I" and affecting to make great efforts to escape to 
 the shore. But the girls were not to be "sold" so easily, 
 and only laughed the louder, and splashed water in the, faces 
 of the jesters as they ran by. Upon discovering us, instead, 
 as the reader might suppose, of making for the shore in con- 
 fusion, they paddled boldly up to the boat, their long hair 
 trailing like a veil on the surface of the water. They looked 
 laughingly up in our faces for a moment, exclaiming, " Cali- 
 fornia," then ducked under, and Avere away. It seemed to 
 us, while they stood drying their wet locks on the beach, 
 that no sculptor could desire fairer models for his studio ; 
 nor the painter a more effective group for "the Bath of the 
 Naides." We were there in an auspicious period ; those 
 days of primitive simplicity are passing away, if, indeed, they 
 are not already past. 
 
 After drying ourselves in the sun, we took our guns and 
 went on shore. We followed the inviting path to which I 
 have referred, for a short distance, when we reached a brisk 
 little brook which came murmuring among the stones with 
 a familiar New England accent, here rippling over the bright 
 sand, and there widening into broad, transparent pools. h\ 
 one of them a whole bevy of little naked children were turn 
 bling about, who took to their heels, like young ducks, upon 
 our approach. Here we met Ben, coming down from the 
 rancherias with two foaming calabashes of fresh milk, one of 
 which was drained on the spot, the other reserved for our 
 coffee. I shot a few strange water-birds and a parrot amongst 
 the bushes, and strayed back to the shore just in time for 
 broiled fish, crisp and hot from the fire. 
 
 Every step into this strange country had been full of nov- 
 elty; and although our interest never nagged for an instant, 
 yet we thought San Miguelito more interesting than any place 
 
HHMHflNHHMHH W^^^W^pWM^ f, ^pf# $^ '^f^0^^-^ 
 
 NAVIGATION ON THE LAKE. 
 
 127 
 
 we had encountered, and at first entertained some vague 
 notions of stopping there for the day. But when the fresh- 
 ness of the morning had passed, which it did before we had 
 finished breakfast, when the cattle had all gone off in the 
 woods, and no more amphibious girls came down for 
 water, we were not only ready but anxious to depart, which 
 we did a little before noon. I shall never forget our break- 
 fast at San Miguelito. 
 
 The day was still and sultry : Nature seemed wearied of the 
 elemental war of the preceding night, and anxious for repose ; 
 the branches on the palm trees on the shore appeared to 
 droop languidly ; while the men, under plea of previous extra 
 labor, paddled along at what Ben piously denominated "a 
 poor, dying rate." The north-east trades sweep entirely 
 across the continent in Nicaragua, and this wind, for boats 
 bound from San Carlos to Granada, is therefore exceedingly 
 favorable. They keep close under the northern shore, 
 following its bendings, until they get nearly opposite 
 Granada, and then stretch boldly across the lake. This is 
 done because, with their imperfect sailing gear, venturing 
 into the mid-lake would almost infallibly end in being blown 
 over to the leeward shore, whence they could only be relieved 
 by long and toilsome rowing against a cross sea — for on that 
 shore the waves roll Avith almost the strength and majesty of 
 those of the ocean. The later-built boats have something of 
 a keel, and are schooner-rigged. These make the passage 
 from the fort more directly. But our sails were, I suppose, 
 a perpetuation of those used by the Indians before the Dis- 
 covery, and quite indescribable. Pedro said they were " no 
 good," except before the wind, and there they would make 
 the boat fly, to use his own words, "like devil." The vision 
 of the night recurred to me, and I yielded a full assent to 
 the remark. 
 
 We spent nearly the whole day in vain trials to catch the 
 ghosts of breezes, which came drowsily over the water, in our 
 
128 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 sails. I presume they were raised a score of times during 
 the afternoon, but they only fluttered for a moment, and then 
 dropped around the masts. This went on until the men felt 
 hungry, and then we put in again at "El Pedernal," the 
 landing-place for the cattle estate of Don Frederico Derby- 
 shire, a merchant residing in Granada, the owner of " La 
 Granadina," and to whom we bore letters of introduction 
 from his correspondents in the United States. The place 
 is not inappropriately named "The Flint." It is the 
 very reverse of San Miguel ; there is no smooth sandy 
 beach, but instead, the whole shore is piled with rugged 
 black basaltic or traclrytic rocks, blistered with heat, among 
 which grow some stunted trees. A narrow path Avinds 
 amongst the rocks to a little cove, in which our boat was 
 run. A man was despatched to the estate, which is situ- 
 ated a mile or two inland, to know of the mayor-domo if any 
 of the products of the farm were to be sent to the city. 
 Meanwhile the men went deliberately through the usual 
 tedious process of dinner-making, and we got over the side 
 for a bath. Notwithstanding the rocky shore, the bottom is 
 a soft black mud, in which we sank to the knees. This was 
 neither expected nor pleasant, and when I discovered an alli- 
 gator slowly list' to the surface not two rods distant, I clamb- 
 ered aboard with more expedition than grace, and gave the 
 monster the contents of my gun, in return for the courtesy 
 of his appearance. 
 
 It was nearly sunset, dinner had been finished, and the ket- 
 tles had been towed on board again, when we heard voices, 
 and suddenly turning round the point of rocks there came 
 three horsemen, each carrying, in net-work sacks, four large 
 square cheeses, of the weight of two arrobas (fitly pounds) 
 each. The horses were ridden up to the side of the boat, 
 and the cheeses carefully placed in the centre. This finished, 
 a breeze having meantime sprung up, we hoisted sail, and 
 glided away from " El Pedernal," not at all dissatished to 
 
Th^^W''*:*^*^-' l^^^H^^H ^#^*;M!$I* H^H ;/Jii 
 
 AN "EMPACHO. 
 
 129 
 
 leave its rocks and alligators to their own pleasant com- 
 pany. 
 
 One of my companions, who had been growing silent and 
 pale for several hours, now gave signs of an approaching 
 crisis of some sort. Pedro pronounced him laboring under 
 an " empacho," and recommended brandy — that was his uni- 
 versal specific for everything, from a sprained ankle to the 
 toothache. But the patient protested against the medicine, 
 as an abomination which made him only the worse to think 
 of. I thought it a capital opportunity to bring out the 
 medicine-chest, which had been packed with an extensive 
 regard to all sorts of contingencies at "Kushton and Clark's," 
 and Ben began a grand rummage for it, to the utter distrac- 
 tion of everything in the boat. Meantime, as became a 
 learned practitioner, I propounded the question usually 
 asked by anxious mammas of complaining children, " what 
 have you eaten ?" It turned out that, besides half a calabash 
 of fresh milk, fried fish, three eggs, a slice of ham, and 
 bread and coffee ad libitum, the patient had " put in" the 
 afternoon with raw plantains, and "duke" — sugar! I com- 
 prehended that " empacho" meant something like surfeit, 
 and to disguise the dose, mixed a little tartar emetic with 
 magnesia, which wrought a wonderful cure — much to my 
 elevation in the eyes of the crew, who set me down at once 
 as a great medico. I had immediate applications on behalf 
 of ailing wives, scalded babies, and feverish boys, for all of 
 which I prescribed, after deliberate consultation of the 
 " Pocket Physician." While this was going on night fell, 
 and I lost the sunset, — a circumstance for which, as he is 
 thereby spared the description, the reader is no doubt prop- 
 erly thankful. 
 
 As the evening progressed, the breeze continued to freshen, 
 and about midnight, Pedro, calculating that we were suffi- 
 ciently to the windward, laid the course of the boat direct 
 for Granada. I went to bed early, and owing to the disturb- 
 17 
 
130 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 ance of the previous night, slept soundly. When I woke, 
 we were in mid lake, and might have been in mid sea, for 
 all the difference discoverable in the appearance of the waves 
 and water. The wind was strong, cool, and damp, and the 
 men had their handkerchiefs bound round their heads, and 
 their blankets wrapped over their shoulders. My ailing 
 companion looked sentimental, and professed not to have 
 wholly recovered from the "empacho," but as 1 felt qualmish 
 myself, I pronounced it sea-sickness, which, as every travel- 
 ler knows, never entitles the sufferer to sympathy. 
 
 We were at least thirty miles from land, yet the shores 
 appeared wonderfully distinct and near. We now, for the 
 first time, felt the majesty of the giant volcanoes of Ometepec 
 and Madeira, which had hitherto seemed so dim and distant. 
 There they rose clear and bold against the sky, regular as 
 works of art, the moving clouds casting their sides in shadow, 
 and clasping their summits as they passed, then sweeping 
 away to the distant islands of the great Pacific. Between us 
 and the shore was the high, uninhabited island of Zapatero, 
 its outline changing every moment with our position, while 
 directly in front, distinguished by the towering edges of its 
 vasl and ragged crater, rose the extinct volcano of Momo- 
 bacho, at the foot of which stands the ancient city of Granada. 
 High above the forests of the shore, are some conical hills, of 
 light green, bordering on yellow, which seemed to be cleared, 
 and which puzzled us exceedingly. Wc became familiar 
 with them afterwards, and 1 presume they are common in 
 all volcanic regions. They are the cones of scoriae, sand, 
 and ashes, which are heaped up during eruptions. On these, 
 trees rarely take root, but in their place a species of long, 
 coarse grass weaves a net- work of verdure over their smooth 
 sides. This grass is of a lively green during the rainy season, 
 but becomes yellow in the dry, when the hills are burned 
 over, after which they change to deep sable. Thus forever 
 varying, they constitute remarkable and characteristic fea- 
 
^H 
 
 W&S& $m SSSSlS ^ SSSmS t SSS ^ ^SS^^^^ t '' 
 
 " TIMBUCOS" AND " CALANDRACAS." 
 
 131 
 
 tures in a Nicaraguan landscape. Upon the northern shore 
 of the lake we saw only the broken volcanic mountains of 
 Chontales, patched with, trees, here black with lava, and there 
 red and white with scoriae and sand. It should be observed 
 that it is only that part of Chontales bordering the upper 
 portion of the lake, which presents this burned and broken 
 aspect. Elsewhere the shores are comparatively low and 
 undulating, with extensive savannas, which furnish abun- 
 dant pasturage. The whole district is well adapted for 
 grazing purposes. 
 
 While we were occupied with the novel and beautiful 
 scenery of the lake, our men, collected around the foot of the 
 mast, were engaged in a low but earnest discussion, which 
 we soon discovered related to politics, and especially to the 
 attempted revolution of which we had heard so much. They 
 made frequent use of the terms " Tiinbucos" and "Calan- 
 dracas," which were about as significant to us as "Coons" 
 and "Locofocos" probably were to strangers on our own 
 shores, during certain presidential elections. We had ab- 
 stained from asking questions about j^olitics, not from want 
 of interest, but from motives of policy ; but took occasion to 
 hear all that might be said upon the subject. We had thus 
 contrived to get some imperfect notions of the partisan divi- 
 sions of the country; the bases of which, though very trivial 
 to the impartial traveller, were probably quite as important in 
 fad as those which we had seen sustained with so much vehe- 
 mence and virulence at home. It was easy to discover that our 
 crew were unanimously "Timbueos," or of the government 
 party, while the " C aland racas" were the disaffected portion 
 of the people. They, however, appeared to have but a sec- 
 tional importance, and were far from numerous, except in the 
 southern departments of the Republic. The robber-chief, 
 Somoza, had turned this partisan feeling to some account by 
 professing to be its champion, and having collected a few 
 hundred reckless and ignorant men around him, made a sud- 
 
132 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 den and successful attack on Eivas, or Nicaragua, which was 
 defended by a small garrison of only forty soldiers. In the 
 attack he burned a number of houses, and committed some 
 cruel murders, besides pillaging and robbing on every hand. 
 According to the accounts which had reached us, however, 
 the entire city had been burned, and the inhabitants slaugh- 
 tered indiscriminately and without mercy. These stories, as 
 well as those relating to the number of his forces, proved, in 
 the end, to be gross exaggerations, — as the reader will dis- 
 cover in due course. 
 
 It appeared, from what was said, that there had been a 
 vague rumor at San Carlos, to the effect that Somoza, at the 
 head of three thousand men, had set out some clays pre- 
 viously for an attack on the city of Granada; and the proba- 
 bilities of its truth, and the course to be pursued in the event 
 he should have reached there, were now, as we approached the 
 city, subjects of increasing interest with our men. The cir- 
 cumstance that we had, on the day preceding, seen a number 
 of boats, making what appeared to be a forced trip in the 
 direction" of San Carlos, but too far distant to be hailed, was 
 dwelt upon as exceedingly significant. In short, it was evi- 
 dent enough that the feeling of excited suspense amongst the 
 men was every moment increasing. Pedro was silent, and 
 answered our questions evasively, but listened earnestly to 
 all that was said. He seemed to be oppressed by a sense of 
 responsibility of some kind ; but whether on account of him- 
 self, his boat, or his distinguished passengers, we could not 
 make out. 
 
 By the veering of the wind, or the "falling off" of our 
 keel-less boat, instead of making the northern islands of the 
 group called the " Corales," rising, hundreds in number, at 
 the foot of the volcano of Momobacho, we found ourselves, at 
 about two o'clock in the afternoon, at the almost extreme 
 southern part of the archipelago. The approach to these 
 islands was exceedingly beautiful ; but when we were 
 
^^^^0ff^^^t^^^0^^( MINIMI 
 
 !■ 
 
 : ■■ HH H "* H 
 
 LOS CORALES — NEWS. 
 
 133 
 
 amongst them, out of the rough waves into the smooth water, 
 they were really enchanting. They are of volcanic origin, 
 elevated in the form of cones, to the height of from twenty 
 to one hundred feet. The sides are steep, and composed of 
 immense volcanic rocks, black and blistered by fire ; but 
 their summits are covered with verdure, and long vines hang- 
 trailing over the stones, blushing with strange flowers, almost 
 to the edge of the water. Some of them, upon which there 
 is a sufficient accumulation of soil, are inhabited by Indians; 
 and their thatched huts, shaded by tall palms, with a dense 
 background of plantains, are the most picturesque objects 
 that can be imagined. 
 
 Within these islands the sail was dropped, and the oars 
 resumed. Everybody was now anxious to hear the news, but 
 the huts on the islands seemed to be deserted ; at least no 
 one appeared, although the men shouted to the inmates at 
 top of their voices. Very soon a canoe, containing a boy 
 and a woman, shot across our course, from between two little 
 islands, just in advance. For a moment they showed evi- 
 dences of alarm, and a disposition to retreat ; but recognising 
 Pedro, they came alongside, under a shower of confused and 
 eager questions, which completely confounded us, and pre- 
 vented anything like an understanding of what was said. 
 We conjectured that the news was of an exciting kind, from 
 the earnest faces and violent gestures of the crew. By-and- 
 bv the canoe pushed off, but it was full a quarter of an hour 
 before the men took up the oars, during which time there 
 was a warm discussion as to whether the boat should proceed 
 at once to Granada, or remain concealed amongst the islands 
 until the issue of affairs at the city could be ascertained. The 
 opinion, however, seemed to be pretty decided, that we should 
 go ahead, at whatever hazard. This decision was based, as 
 we afterwards discovered, on the faith reposed in " la ban- 
 dera del Norte America," the flag of the United States; 
 which they all believed neither man nor devil dared disre- 
 
134 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 gard. It appeared that the woman and buy of the canoe had 
 told an alarming story of the approach of Somoza, the flight 
 of the inhabitants, and the probable capture of the city. 
 But Pedro, more cautious than the rest, was of the opinion 
 that their tale had but little better foundation than their 
 fears; and expressed great faith in the ability of the little 
 garrison of "veteranos," stationed in the city, to prevent its 
 being carried by Somoza. His faith was somewhat shaken, 
 however, on learning, a few minutes thereafter, from an 
 Indian, lurking on one of the islands, that there had been a 
 great firing in the city the previous night and this morning ; 
 and that all the boats had left the landing and made for the 
 opposite shore of the lake. 
 
 There is pleasure in all kinds of excitement, which is 
 rather enhanced than diminished by the presence of danger. 
 And so far from being alarmed by these accounts, I was oniy 
 the more anxious to get to Granada. I had been told that 
 Somoza, notwithstanding his crimes, cruelty, and contempt for 
 the laws, had much of the cavalier in his composition ; gay, 
 gallant, generous, and withal the finest looking and most 
 dashing fellow in all Nicaragua. No man rode such fine 
 horses, or could rival him in wielding the lance. Indeed, the 
 commandante at San Carlos had intimated that he owed it 
 to the place which he held in the good graces of the seliori- 
 taa of the country, that he had so long baffled justice and 
 defied pursuit. Altogether I had pictured him something 
 like the gentlemanly cut-throat of the Apennines and Sierra 
 Morina, or the amiable bandits of the Peninsula, and almost 
 considered myself fortunate in the prospect of an adventure, 
 ;it my very first step in the country. 
 
 Two hours of steady rowing amongst the fairy " Corales" 
 brought us to the little island of Cubi, when abroad bay, 
 with a white beach, and an old castle on the shore, opened 
 before us ; while beyond a belt of woods, on higher ground, 
 rose the towers of Granada. We could distinguish little of 
 
HHMHHmHMHHHhHhIhmH^^HhMHMHMHI 
 
 THE ISLAND OF CUBI. 
 
 135 
 
 the town except the red, tiled roofs of the houses ; and 
 though from this distance it was far from imposing, yet we 
 had so long looked forward to our arrival here, that had 
 dome been piled on dome, and palace risen above palace, in 
 long perspective, we could not have experienced greater 
 satisfaction than we now did in gazing, for the first time, 
 upon this ancient city. At the island, we found several huts, 
 and a number of boats drawn into little nooks between the 
 rocks, while beneath the trees were clusters of women and 
 children, and here and there groups of men, absorbed in 
 playing some noisy game of cards. With a vivid recollec- 
 tion of the indifferent figure we had cut at the fort, we had 
 arranged with Pedro to stop here, in order to replace our 
 stained and tattered garments; an operation which we soon 
 discovered must be performed in face of the assembled popu- 
 lation of Cubi, unless we preferred to encounter the fleas 
 which we fancied must infest the dirty, dog-stocked huts on 
 the shore. We chose the former alternative; but had hardly 
 commenced the disruption of trunks and boxes, and the 
 overhauling of carpet bags, before we heard a cannon in the 
 direction of the city, followed very soon by what appeared to 
 be a rolling discharge of musketry; and looking in that 
 direction, we could see a volume of smoke rising from the 
 centre of the town. Our invalid had a violent recurrence of 
 his " empacho," refused tartar emetic, anticipated a fever, 
 and was altogether too ill to leave the island. So he was led 
 up to one of the huts, and deposited in a hammock. Mean- 
 time the fusilade ended with one or two more discharges of 
 cannon, while a white cloud rose slowly over the city. Our 
 first impression was that Somoza had arrived, and that a 
 fight was already in progress. The people of the island 
 were also somewhat startled, and for atime watched the town 
 with evident anxiety ; but in the end quietly resumed their 
 amusements. Pedro also seemed to be relieved ; and after 
 listening for a while, finally exclaimed that all was right : 
 
136 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 the day, lie said, was & fiesta, and what we had supposed 
 a discharge of firearms, was only the explosion of "bombas" 
 or rockets, — " in point of fact," fireworks. I cannot say that 
 I was particularly gratified with the information, after having 
 prepared myself for a siege at least, if not an assault. 
 
 Myriads of bees, attracted by the sweets in the boat, 
 swarmed around us while making our toilet. Their first 
 onset fairly drove us out on the rocks, but Pedro quieted us 
 with the assurance that they were stingless, when we returned 
 and completed our arrangements. It was late in the after- 
 noon, the wind blowing fair, when we again put up sail, and 
 steered for the landing of Granada. As we approached, we 
 discovered hundreds of people on the shore and in the water, 
 some in groups, and others in gay trappings dashing about 
 on horseback, — a picture of activity and life. On the gray 
 walls of the old castle we also discerned soldiers, their mus- 
 kets glancing in the sun; and, anchored a little distance from 
 the shore, was an odd-looking craft, in two pieces, resembling 
 some awkward canal-boat, which we afterwards discovered 
 had been built to receive the engine and boiler which we 
 had seen in San Juan. In this rude, unwieldy affair, with 
 infinite trouble, and after three weeks of toil, a party of some 
 seventy-five outward-bound Californians had ascended the 
 river and passed the lake to this place, — the pioneers on this 
 line of transit. 
 
 In an hour after leaving Cubi, we cast anchor under the 
 walls of the old castle. Our flag attracted immediate atten- 
 tion, and the people crowded upon the walls of the fort to 
 look at us. Some called to Pedro, with a multitude of ges- 
 ticulations; but the noise of the surf was so great that we 
 could not make out what was said. The question which 
 presented itself most strongly to us was, how are we going 
 to land ? for a surf like that of the ocean broke on the shore. 
 We had a practical answer, however, very shortly. The 
 cable was let out, so as to bring us as far in shore as was 
 
■■ 
 
 $§f&^x&$£?^ 
 
 < 
 
 CD 
 < 
 
 < 
 DC 
 
 < 
 
 2E 
 

 ■MMi H 
 
 v^ ^S S ^^^^ S s^SSSSSS^SSf SSSi 
 
 LANDING AT GRANADA. 
 
 137 
 
 safe, and then three or four sailors leaped overboard, their 
 heads and shoulders just appearing above the water, and in- 
 vited us to get on ! Get on what — where — how ? Pedro 
 explained that we were to put our feet on the shoulders, and 
 seat ourselves on the head of one, and hold on with our 
 hands to the hair of another just in advance. After a num- 
 ber of awkward attempts, which excited great merriment, 
 and at the expense of wetted feet, we finally got into position, 
 and were duly deposited on shore, amidst a swarm of boys 
 and women. Some of the former pressed forward, exclaim- 
 ing "California," or "goode by," and then disappeared 
 laughing amongst their companions. It was very evident 
 that our countrymen had created a great sensation in their 
 progress. Probably no equal number of strangers had 
 passed through the country for a century. 
 
 Pedro slipped off his clothes, and holding them above his 
 head, also came on shore, in ecstatic spirits to find the town 
 standing and all safe. He dressed with great expedition, 
 and with much dignity put himself in advance, to escort us 
 to the town. Not at all sorry to get out of the crowd of 
 gazers, we followed along a broad, well-beaten road, with 
 elevated foot-paths on each side, in the direction of the city. 
 The ascent seemed to be by terraces ; the faces of which were 
 paved with stone, and guarded by masonry, to protect them 
 from the wasting action of the rains. Palms, plantains, 
 orange and other tropical trees lined the road on either hand, 
 shut in by a hedge composed of a species of cactus, bearing 
 brilliant red flowers. We met troops of laughing girls, of 
 every shade of complexion, from pure white to ebon black, 
 fancifully attired, with water-jars on their heads, on their 
 way to the lake. They were as straight as arrows, and 
 seemed to have an infinite fund of animal spirits. Most of 
 them passed us with a side glance, half of curiosity and half 
 of mischief, while others more bold, turning full round, ex- 
 18 
 
138 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 claimed gayly, " Actios, caballeros!" to which we responded, 
 "Adios, mi alma!" much to their apparent entertainment. 
 
 It was full a third of a mile to a steep terrace, ascending 
 which we found ourselves amongst the neat cane huts com- 
 posing the suburbs of the city, and in which reside the poorer 
 portion of the population. Most of these, like those at San 
 Carlos and San Juan, were built of canes and thatched with 
 palm leaves or grass, while others were plastered with mud, 
 and whitewashed. A clump of fruit-trees overshadowed 
 each, and within the doors we could discover women spin- 
 ning cotton with a little foot-wheel, or engaged in grinding 
 corn for tortillas. On almost every house were one or two 
 parrots screaming at each other, or at some awkward looking 
 macaw, which waddled clumsily along the crown of the roof. 
 Around all, dogs, chickens, and children mingled in perfect 
 equality. 
 
 Beyond these huts commenced the city proper. The build- 
 ings were of adobes, on cut stone foundations, and roofed with 
 tiles. The windows were all balconied, and protected on the 
 outside by ornamental iron gratings, and within by painted 
 shutters. They were, with scarcely an exception, of one high 
 story. The principal entrances were by arehed and often 
 elaborately ornamented gateways, within which swung mas- 
 sive doors, themselves containing smaller ones, all opening 
 into the courtyards. Besides these, there were, in some 
 instances, other entrances, opening directly into the grand 
 sala of the house. The eaves of all the houses project 
 several feet beyond the walls, serving the double purpose of 
 protecting the latter from the rains, and sheltering the foot- 
 passenger from the sun and the elements. The side or foot- 
 walks were all raised one or two feet above the street, and 
 flagged, but barely wide enough to admit persons meeting 
 each other to pass. Towards the centre of the town some of 
 the streets are paved, like those of our own cities, with this 
 
5^^^^^^-^^^i^j^^V^.Np?i3^ 
 
 ENTRANCE TO GRANADA. 
 
 139 
 
 difference, that instead of a convex, they present a concave 
 surface, so that the gutter is in the centre of the street. 
 
 As we progressed, we met a number of well-dressed peo- 
 ple, of both sexes, who, seeing that we were strangers, bowed 
 respectfully to us as we passed. Evidences of comfort, not 
 to say elegance, noAV began to appear, and through an 
 occasional open door we caught glimpses of sofas and easy 
 chairs, and beds which a Sybarite might envy. Occasionally 
 there were niches in the walls of the houses, in which were 
 placed crosses, covered with faded flowers ; in some instances 
 the crosses were simply fastened to the walls, or planted at 
 the corners of the streets. Advancing further, we found our- 
 selves in the shadow of a large and massive stone building, 
 with terraces, domes, and towers, half Moresque, and alto- 
 gether an architectural incongruity. It appeared to be 
 very ancient, and I stopped Pedro, who strode ahead with the 
 gait of a conquering hero, to inquire what building it might 
 be. He said it was the ancient and now abandoned convent 
 of San Francisco, and showed us the gratings through which 
 its former inmates had intercourse with the world, and 
 pointed out the wooden cross in front, made of cedar from 
 Lebanon. I do not know how long Pedro would have run 
 on, had I not cut his story short, by saying I would hear the 
 rest to-morrow. Just then a party of soldiers defiled across 
 the street in front of us. They were bare-footed, and wore 
 white pantaloons and jackets, with funny little, black caps, 
 banded with metal, and having little, round, red cockades 
 stuck saucily in front. A dashing young officer rode at 
 their head, who lifted his hat gracefully to us. It was a 
 scouting party just coming in. We followed them with our 
 eyes down the street, and saw that sentinels were stationed 
 at the corners, but two squares distant, and that the streets 
 near the plaza were barricaded with adobes and timbers, with 
 a single embrasure in the centre, through which a cannon 
 looked grimly towards us. We now observed that soldiers 
 
140 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 were stationed on the walls of the convent, and in the towers 
 of the parochial church, which had just come in view. It 
 was evident that the government and military were on the 
 alert, and prepared for any emergency. We found tile streets 
 more animated, and the houses better built, as we approached 
 the centre of the town ; women were moving hither and 
 thither with trays, vegetables, littles, and a hundred other 
 commodities on their heads, ami babies on their hips, and 
 men with slouched hats, and breeches turned up to their 
 knees, bare-footed, or wearing sandals, and carrying a large 
 machete in their hands, were driving meek-looking horses, 
 bearing loads, through the streets before them, or else with 
 a long, iron-pointed pole, pricking on little compact oxen, 
 fastened by the horns to long, heavy, awkward carts, with 
 solid wheels cut from the mahogany tree. Amongst these 
 flitted now and then a priest, with his black robe, preposter- 
 ous bell-crowned, fur hat, and gaudy umbrella. There were 
 quiet seiloritas, also, moving slowly along, with a grace and 
 dignity of motion seldom or never seen in our cities ; and 
 gay fellows on fiery little horses, who dashed at a break-neck 
 pace through the streets. It was a novel scene, and we had 
 hardly taken in its more striking features, when Pedro 
 stopped before a large arched gateway, or portada, as it is 
 called here, and told us this was the " Casa del Senor Don 
 Frederico." He unlatched the small door within the larger, 
 and entering, wc found ourselves in a broad corridor, com- 
 pletely surrounding a court, in which were growing a num- 
 ber of orange, maranon, and other fruit trees, fragrant 
 bushes, and clumps of flowers. On one side was the store, 
 filled with bales and boxes, and in front of it were huge 
 scales for weighing commodities; while the sala, dining, and 
 private rooms occupied the remaining two sides of the court. 
 In one corner of the corridor were two or three movable 
 deslcs, where Don Frederico's children were engaged in their 
 afternoon lessons with their tutor, a pale, intellectual look- 
 
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^H 
 
 OUR HOST, DON FREDERICO. 
 
 141 
 
 ing young man ; and just beyond, reclining in a hammock, 
 was the portly form of Don Frederico himself. Pedro ap- 
 proached him, hat in hand, and with profound reverence, 
 announeed us. Our host immediately rose, and in due 
 course I delivered my letters, which were honored in a 
 spirit of the most enlarged and liberal hospitality. A part 
 of a spacious and commodious house immediately opposite, 
 which was occupied by the children of Don Frederico and 
 their governess, was at once ordered to be prepared for our 
 accommodation, while a couple of carts were despatched to 
 the shore for our luggage. Our reception was so warm and 
 cordial, that I felt at once perfectly at home, and was de- 
 lighted with the neatness and comfort of everything around 
 us. Don Frederico was born in Jamaica, but had resided for 
 thirty years in the country, where he had married, become a 
 citizen, and accumulated a large fortune. Entertaining the 
 respect and confidence of all parties, he had passed safely 
 through all the troubles to which the country had been sub- 
 jected. He seemed very little alarmed at the threatened 
 attack on the city, and felt confident that the insurgents 
 would ultimately be put down. Still, unless reinforcements 
 speedily arrived from the government, he anticipated that 
 trouble might ensue, and perhaps an assault be attempted, 
 because Somoza was as daring as he was unscrupulous. But 
 even then it was only necessary to barricade the doors, and 
 every house became a fortress. He had gone through seve- 
 ral revolutions, securely locked in, eating and sleeping as 
 usual. When the affair was over, he opened the portada 
 again, and things went on as before. 
 
 As we had eaten scarcely anything during the day, our 
 host gave us a cup of chocolate, pending the preparation of 
 dinner. While thus engaged, we were surprised by the ap- 
 pearance of an officer bearing a note from the commandante of 
 the Plaza, congratulating us upon our safe arrival, and very 
 considerately proposing that some time should be named, 
 
142 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 when we were recovered from our fatigues, to enable him to 
 pay his respects in person. He also placed a guard at our dispo- 
 sition, which I of course declined. Hardly had this messenger 
 been despatched, before another, from the Prefect of the De- 
 partment, made his appearance. The next day at noon was 
 named for receptions, and meantime we instructed the por- 
 tero or gatekeeper to report us to all visitors as engaged. 
 
 The evening passed delightfully with our host. It was a 
 great relief to stretch one's legs once more beneath a table 
 spread like our own at home ; a pleasure not slightly en- 
 hanced by the presence of entirely new and curious dishes, 
 upon the merits of which we successively passed summary, 
 and generally favorable, judgments. A gentle "shower mean- 
 while pattered upon the tiled roofs, cooling and purifying the 
 air; and we experienced, for the first time, the pleasures 
 attending life in a well-appointed residence beneath the 
 tropics. After the bell struck eight, we heard every five 
 minutes the word " Alerte /" caught up in succession by the 
 guards, in evidence that they were all awake, and keeping 
 a bright lookout. Occasionally the " Quien viveP or chal- 
 lenge of the sentinel stationed at the corner of the street be- 
 low us, was given with an emphasis which fell startlingly 
 upon our unaccustomed ears. Our host was used to it. We 
 were really in the midst of war and "its alarums," and felt 
 all the better for it. We retired early to our new quarters, 
 which consisted of a large sala, in which- were a piano, ma- 
 hogany tables and chairs, with sleeping apartments attached. 
 Here we found that Ben, with an eye to all our wants, had 
 arranged everything necessary to our comfort. Forty nights 
 in close, narrow berths, in hammocks, and on the tops of 
 boxes and trunks, had qualified us to enjoy the delightfully 
 cool and scrupulously neat camas which that evening invited 
 us to slumber. I bestowed myself in one without ceremony, 
 and in less time than I am writing it, went to sleep, to dream 
 of Somoza, storms on the lake, and a thousand incongruous 
 
mM^SKBMWft RhI W& traP^MHffl|^K^^KK|@K |&l8$ipi jpfflf 
 
 FIRST NIGHT IN GRANADA. 
 
 143 
 
 matters. Nor did I wake until Ben, utterly renovated, and 
 looking wonderfully genteel, came to announce that break- 
 fast was ready. It was some seconds before I could compre- 
 hend clearly where I was ; but once awake, I found myself 
 thoroughly refreshed, and ready for any turn of events, — 
 breakfast or revolutions. 
 
 THE PLANTAIN TREK. 
 

■ ^ ■ y >*-- 1 1 ymr 5; j I 1 ? j <■ ■ ■ ■ ,*■;&■* ^^H ■>■&?!&&???$!* f*&p 
 
 CHAPTEK V. 
 
 RECEPTION-DAY GENERAL RESPECT AND ADMIRATION FOR THE UNITED STATES — 
 
 AN EVENING RIDE THE PLAZA CHURCHES — HOSPITAL TnE " JALTEVA'' 
 
 DESERTED MUNICIPALITY — MELANCHOLY RESULTS OF FACTION THE ARSENAL 
 
 NATURAL DEFENCES OF THE CITY "CAMPO SANTO ' AN EX-DIRECTOR AND 
 
 HIS " nACIENDA" SHORE OF THE LAKE IN THE EVENING OLD CASTLE 
 
 THE " ORACION" AN EVENING VISIT TO THE SENORITAS OPERA AMIDST 
 
 ORANGE GROVES " ALERTAS" AND " QUIEN VIVAS ?" THE GRANADINAS AT 
 
 HOME AN EPISODE ON WOMEN AND DRESS MR. ESTEVENS " LOS MALDI- 
 
 TOS INGLESES" A FEMALE ANTIQUARIAN COADJUTOR " CIGARITAS" IN- 
 DIAN GIRLS COUNTRYMEN AN AMERICAN "MEDICO" NATIVE HOSPITALITY 
 
 TO STRANGERS — THE WAYS INFESTED BY " FACCIOSOs" AN AMERICAN 
 
 TURNED BACK — EXPECTED ASSAULT ON THE CITY, AND PATRIOTIC RESOLVES 
 
 "TO DIE UNDER THE AMERICAN FLAG" A NOTE ON HORSES AND SADDLE8 
 
 VISIT TO THE CACAO ESTATES OF THE MALACCAS THE CACAO TREE 
 
 DAY-DREAMS AN ADVENTURE ALMOST GRIEVOUS DISAPPOINTMENT SOMOZA, 
 
 THE ROBBER CHIEF OUR ARMORY FEVERISHNESS OF THE PUBLIC MIND 
 
 LIFE UNDER THE TROPICS — A FRIGHTENED AMERICAN, WHO HAD " SEEN SO- 
 MOZA," AND HIS ACCOUNT OF THE INTERVIEW — SOMOZA's LOVE FOR THE 
 
 AMERICANS GOOD NEWS FROM LEON APPROACH OF THE GENERAL IN CHIEF, 
 
 AND AN ARMED AMERICAN ESCORT CONDITION OF PUBLIC AFFAIRS — PRO- 
 CLAMATION OF THE SUPREME DIRECTOR — DECREES OF THE GOVERNMENT 
 
 OFFICIAL ANNOUNCEMENTS, AND PUBLIC ADDRESSES — HOW THEY EXHIBITED 
 
 THE POPULAR FEELING NICARAGUAN RHETORIC DECISIVE MEASURES TO 
 
 PUT DOWN THE INSURGENTS GENERAL CALL TO ARMS MARTIAL LAW 
 
 PUBLICATION OF A " BANDA" — GREAT PREPARATIONS TO RECEIVE THE GEN- 
 ERAL IN CHIEF AND HIS " VETERANOs" NO FURTHER FEAR OF THE "FAC- 
 
 CIOSOS" A BREAK-NECK RIDE TO THE " LAGUNA DE SALINAS" A VOLCANIC 
 
 LAKE DESCENT TO THE WATER HOW CAME ALLIGATORS THERE ? NATIVE 
 
 " AGUARDIENTE" " NOT BAD TO TAKE" — RETURN TO THE CITY A RELI- 
 GIOUS PROCESSION TnE nOST INCREASING TOLERANCE OF THE PEOPLE 
 
 PREPARATIONS FOR " LA MANANA." 
 
 At noon, agreeably to appointment, we were waited upon 
 by the dignitaries of the city, and the commander of the gar- 
 19 
 
146 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 rison, together with a large number of the leading inhabitants. 
 They all exhibited the same cordiality with the ruder por- 
 tion of the population, and a degree of refinement and cour- 
 tesy which would have done credit to more pretending capi- 
 tals. We were a little startled by the somewhat exaggerated 
 tone of compliment, both in respect to ourselves and our 
 country, which run through their conversation, and which 
 seems characteristic of the Spanish people wherever found, 
 in the Old World or the New. All concurred in represent- 
 ing the present unsettled state of public affairs as in a great 
 measure due to foreign intervention and intrigue ; and re- 
 ferred to the seizure of San Juan, and the English encroach- 
 ments on their territories, in a tone of indignation and re- 
 proach, commensurate with the indignity and outrage to 
 which they had been subjected. They seemed to entertain 
 the highest hopes from the opening of more intimate relations 
 with the United States ; but, unacquainted with the nature, 
 constitutional powers, and the policy of our govern incut, 
 these hopes were, as a matter of course, somewhat vague ; yet 
 it was not unnatural that, distracted within, and subjected to 
 unscrupulous aggression from without, the United States 
 should be looked to as a conciliator of intestine factions, as a 
 friend, and a protector. I was deeply impressed with the 
 feeling which they manifested, and was convinced that if 
 once treated with consideration, and taught to respect them- 
 selves as a nation, there was no reason why the States of the 
 Isthmus should not take a respectable rank amongst the re- 
 publics of the continent. The interview was highly interest- 
 ing, and gave me more elevated views of the temper of the 
 people of the country than I had gathered from what had 
 been published concerning them; an impression which a 
 further and more intimate acquaintance only tended to 
 confirm. 
 
 Towards evening, in company with Col. Trinidad Salazar, 
 the commandant of the Plaza, we took a ride through the 
 

 in ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^| ^H H 
 
 THE PLAZA — CHURCHES. 
 
 147 
 
 city and its environs. We found that with the exception of 
 the Church of La Mercedes, and the Convent of San Francis- 
 co, already mentioned, there were few buildings at all re- 
 markable or imposing. The Parochial Church, on the plaza, 
 is very ancient, and distinguished as containing the bones of 
 several of the first bishops of Nicaragua, which was estab- 
 lished as a diocess as early as 1582. The interior was far 
 from imposing. It had some paintings, too ancient to be dis- 
 tinguished, with some indifferent prints of saints, and scenes 
 in the life of Christ and the apostles. Upon one side of the 
 plaza is the facade of the unfinished church of San Juan de 
 Dios, which was designed to be the most beautiful in the city, 
 but for some reason was never finished. The fagade is very 
 elaborate, and profusely loaded with ornament. It has been 
 standing in its present condition for more than a hundred 
 years. A hospital has been erected in the area it was intend- 
 ed to occupy, which is supported by a small market tax 
 and voluntary contributions. Buildings of one or two stories, 
 with spacious corridors in front, extend round two sides of 
 the square, in which are some of the principal retail " tien- 
 das" of the city. The wares of the shopkeepers were as con- 
 spicuously displayed as in some of the minor streets at home; 
 while in front were the market-women, with fruits, eaeao, 
 maize, and all the various edibles of the season. These were 
 generally placed in baskets, or spread on a white sheet on 
 the ground, in a style probably very little different from that 
 practised by the aborigines at the time of the Conquest. All 
 the streets leading from the plaza were barricaded, and we 
 found advance posts of troops in every part of the city. 
 
 From the grand plaza we rode through the narrow streets, 
 between long rows of substantial houses, in the direction of 
 the municipality of Jalteva. 1 Dashing up a broad causeway, 
 
 1 This municipality is mostly made up of Indians. The present name, 
 " Jalteva" is probably a corruption of the Indian " Salteba" the name 
 
148 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 with heavy flanking walls, surmounted by urns, we came at 
 once into the second grand plaza. Here we found the build- 
 ings more scattered, and of a poorer character ; huts of canes 
 alternating with adobe houses and open lots of ground. The 
 plaza was deserted, and as we rode along we observed that 
 the whole quarter seemed depopulated. We found, upon 
 inquiry, that this municipality was the stronghold of the 
 "Calandracas," and hereditarily jealous of the city proper. 
 This hostility led to the collision of which we had heard, 
 in which the disaffected party had suffered a defeat ; where- 
 upon, either from fear, or with a design of organizing for 
 sharper work, they had chiefly fled u al monte" to the fields. 
 Those who remained, with scarcely an exception, had moved, 
 for greater security, within the city. The silence and deso- 
 lation which reigned in this deserted quarter was a mournful 
 commentary on partisan feuds. A few dogs and unclaimed 
 cattle wandered despondingly amongst the houses, as if in 
 search of their masters ; but beyond these there were no 
 signs of life. 
 
 Passing the Jalteva, we came into the broad open road 
 leading to Leon, and soon reached a square compact build- 
 ing, which was the arsenal. It was surrounded by a high 
 wall, and at the corners were erected towers, looped for 
 musketry, each containing a guard of soldiers. A cannon 
 looked morosely through the open gateway, around which 
 was a company of lancers, just returned from some expedi- 
 tion. Their lances, to each of which was hung a little red 
 streamer, flashed in the sun as they fell into line on the ap- 
 proach of the commandante ; while the guards, on the tap of 
 the drum, leaped to their feet, and presented arms. Just 
 beyond the arsenal is what the commandante called the 
 natural defence of the city. It is a deep, narrow ravine, 
 
 of the aboriginal town which occupied the site of Granada before that 
 city was built. 
 
;,\<^ '&*'£&*$'&$> 
 
 '■Sf^''/j^isfsii^.. " ? 
 
 AN EVENING RIDE. 
 
 149 
 
 with absolutely precipitous walls, worn by the rains through 
 the volcanic or calcareous breccia upon which the city is 
 built. It extends on three sides of the town, and can be 
 passed only in one or two places, where lateral inclined 
 planes have been artificially cut from the top to the bottom 
 on one side, and from the bottom to the top on the other. It 
 is a feature of some importance in calculating the means of 
 defending the city, and probably had something to do in de- 
 termining its site. 
 
 From the arsenal we turned off to the left, following a 
 broad, well-beaten path, which wound beneath a complete 
 archway of trees, vines, and flowers, in the direction of the 
 " Carrvpo Santo" or burial place of the city. This is an area 
 "['several acres of ground in extent, surrounded by a high 
 wall of adobes, neatly whitewashed, and entered beneath a 
 lofty gateway, surmounted by a cross, and bearing a Latin in- 
 scription, which I have forgotten. There was little to see ; 
 and, as the gates were shut, we could not enter ; so, turning 
 in the direction of the lake, we galloped to the hacienda of 
 Don Jose Leon Sandoval, passing on the way, in a pictur- 
 esque glen, shadowed over with trees, the " corral " or cattle 
 yard of the estate. A brisk ride through the bushes brought 
 us to the house, built upon a high terrace, overlooking the 
 lake and city, and embowered in palm, maranon, orange, 
 and jocote trees. The proprietor was out somewhere on the 
 estate, and we started to find him, which we soon succeeded 
 in doing. lie was mounted on a splendid mule, and just 
 returning from inspecting the day's work of the "mozos" or 
 what in New England would be called " hired help." Don 
 Jose proved to be a plainly dressed, substantial person, bear- 
 ing a close likeness to General Taylor. Upon my mentioning 
 the fact, he bowed low, in acknowledgment, and said that he 
 knew the General was a farmer-soldier and a citizen-Presi- 
 dent ; and he only hoped that the resemblance might extend 
 from person, which was of little, to character, which was of 
 
150 
 
 NIC ARAG UA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 greater, consequence. Don Jose had once been Director of 
 the State, but had resigned the office, preferring, he said, to 
 be a good farmer rather than a poor director. We followed 
 him over various parts of the estate to his indigo vats and 
 drying houses, and to his plantain and cacao walks and corn- 
 fields, all of which we found to be in capital order, and bear- 
 ing the evidences of intelligence, enterprise, industry, and 
 care. 
 
 After a pleasant interview of half an hour, we bade Don 
 Jose " buena tarde" and descended to the shores of the lake, 
 just as the sun was setting, throwing the whole beach in the 
 shade, while the fairy "Corales" were swimming in the 
 evening light. The shore was ten-fold more animated than 
 when we landed the previous day; men on horseback, 
 women on foot, sailors, fishermen, idlers, children, and a 
 swarm of water-carriers, mingling together, gave life to the 
 scene; while boats and graceful canoes, drawn up on the 
 beach, bongos rocking at their anchors outside, the grim old 
 fort frowning above, and the green border of trees, with 
 bars of sunlight streaming between them, all contributed to 
 heighten and give effect to the picture. We rode up the 
 glacis of the old castle, through its broken archway, into its 
 elevated area, and looked out beyond the broad and beauti- 
 ful lake, upon the distant shores of Chontales, with its earth- 
 quake-riven hills, and ragged, volcanic craters. Their rough 
 features were brought out sharply and distinctly in the slant- 
 ing light which gilded the northern slope of the gigantic 
 volcano of Momobacho, while its eastern declivity slept in 
 purple shadow. We were absorbed in contemplating one 
 by one these varied beauties, when the bells of the city 
 struck the hour of the " oracion." In an instant every voice 
 was hushed, the horseman reined in his steed, the ropes 
 dropped from the hands of the sailor, the sentinel on the 
 fort stopped short in his round, even the water-jars were left 
 half-filled, while every hat was removed, and every lip 
 
^M 
 
 gwlna 
 
 x V^^$£r'- 
 
 AN EVENING VISIT. 
 
 151 
 
 moved in prayer. The very waves seemed to break more 
 gently on the shore, in harmony with the vibrations of the 
 distant bells ; while the subdued hum of reverential voices 
 filled the pauses between. There was something almost 
 magical in this sudden hush of the multitude, and its appar- 
 ently entire absorption in devotion, which could not fail 
 deeply to impress the stranger witnessing it for the first time. 
 
 No sooner, however, had the bells ceased to toll, and struck 
 up the concluding joyful chime, than the crowd on the shore 
 resumed its life and gayety, while we put spurs to our horses, 
 and dashed through their midst, on our return to the city. 
 The commandante and his companions would only leave me 
 at my door, where we were saluted by our host with "Saved 
 your distance, gentlemen ; dinner is ready !" 
 
 An evening visit to the Seiiorita Teresa finished our first 
 entire day in Granada. This young lady had been educated 
 in the United States, spoke English very well, and was 
 withal a proficient in music, — accomplishments which we 
 never before learned to estimate at their true value. It was 
 worth something to hear well executed passages from fa- 
 miliar operas, amidst tangible and not painted orange trees 
 and palms, and in an atmosphere really loaded with tropical 
 perfumes, instead of the odors of oil-pots and gas-lights. 
 Eight o'clock was the signal for general withdrawal from the 
 streets, for then commenced the rigors of the military police, 
 and the city became at once still and quiet. The occasional 
 barking of a dog, the tinkling of a distant guitar, the sough- 
 ing of the evening wind amongst the trees of the court-yard, 
 the measured tread and graduated " alertas 1" of the sentinels, 
 were the only interruptions to the almost sepulchral silence. 
 While returning to our quarters, we were startled by the 
 "Quien vive?" of the sentinel, uttered in a tone absolutely 
 ferocious, and as these fellows rarely parleyed long, we 
 answered with all expedition, "La Patria," which was fol- 
 lowed on the instant by " Que gente ?" " Americanos del 
 
152 
 
 NIC AR AG U A — NARRATIVE. 
 
 Norte." This was enough; these, we found, were magic 
 words, which opened every heart and every door in all Nica- 
 ragua. They never failed us. We felt proud to know that 
 no such charm attached to "Ingleses," " Alemanes," or 
 " Franceses." 
 
 The day following, in accordance with the "costumbres 
 del pais," the customs of the country, we returned the visits 
 of the preceding day, and began to see more of the domestic 
 and social life of the citizens of Granada. We found the 
 residences all comfortable, and many elegant, governed by 
 mistresses simple, but graceful and confiding in their manners. 
 They were frank in their conversation, and inquired with 
 the utmost naivete whether I was married or intended to be, 
 and if the ladies of El Norte would probably visit Granada, 
 when the"Vapores grandes," the great steamers, came to 
 run to San Juan, and the " Vaporcitas," steameretts, to ply 
 on the lake and river. They had heard of a Mr. Estevens, 
 (their nearest approach to Stephens,) who had written a book 
 about their " pobre pais," their poor country, and were 
 anxious to know what he had said of them, and whether our 
 people really regarded them as " esclavos y brutos sin ver- 
 guenza," slaves and brutes without shame, as the abominable 
 English (los malditos Ingleses) had represented them. They 
 were also very anxious to know whether the party of Cali- 
 fornians which had passed through were " gente comun," 
 common people, or " caballeros," gentlemen; upon which 
 point, however, we were diplomatically evasive, for there 
 was more in the inquiry than we chose to notice. One lady 
 had heard that I was a great antiquarian, and anticipatory 
 to my visit, had got together a most incongruous collection 
 of curiosities, from " vasos antiguos," fragments of pottery, 
 and stone hatchets, down to an extraordinary pair of horn 
 spectacles, and a preposterously distorted hog's hoof, — all of 
 which she insisted on sending to my quarters, which she did, 
 with some rare birds, and a plate of dulces ! At every house 
 
HhHHHB 
 
 LAS GRANADINAS AT HOME. 
 
 153 
 
 we found a table spread with wines and sweetmeats, and 
 bearing a little silver brazier filled with burning coals, for 
 the greater convenience of lighting cigars. I excited much 
 surprise by declining to smoke, on the ground that I had 
 never done so ; but the ladies insisted on my taking a 
 "cigarito," which they said wouldn't injure a new-bora babe, 
 and paid me the compliment of lighting it with their own 
 fair lips, after which it would have been rank treason to 
 etiquette, and would have ruined my reputation for gallantry, 
 had I refused. I at first endeavored to shirk the responsi- 
 bility of smoking by thrusting it into my pocket, but found 
 that as soon as one disappeared another was presented, so 
 I was obliged "to face the music" in the end. In every 
 sala we found a large hammock suspended from the walls, 
 which was invariably tendered to the visitor, even Avhen 
 there were easy chairs and sofas in the room. This is the 
 seat of honor. 
 
 The women of pure Spanish stock are very fair, and have 
 the embonpoint which characterizes the sex under the tropics. 
 Their dress, except in a few instances where the stiff cos- 
 tume of our own country had been adopted, was exceedingly 
 loose and flowing, leaving the neck and arms exposed. The 
 entire dress was often pure white, but generally the skirt, or 
 nagua, was of some flowered stuff, in which case the guipil 
 (ant/lice, Vandyke) was white, heavily trimmed with lace. 
 Satin slippers, a red or purple sash wound loosely round the 
 waist, and a rosary sustaining a little golden cross, with a 
 narrow golden band or a string of pearls extending around 
 the forehead and binding the hair, which often fell in luxu- 
 riant waves upon their shoulders, completed a costume as 
 novel as it was graceful and picturesque. To all this, add 
 the superior attractions of an oval face, regular features, large 
 and lustrous black eyes, small mouth, pearly white teeth, 
 and tiny hands and feet, and withal a low but clear voice, 
 and the reader has a picture of a Central American lady of 
 20 
 
154 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 pure stock. Very many of the women have, however, an 
 infusion of other families and races, from the Saracen to 
 the Indian and the Negro, in every degree of intermixture. 
 And as tastes differ, so may opinions as to whether the tinge 
 of brown, through which the blood glows with a peach-like 
 bloom, in the complexion of the girl who may trace her 
 lineage to the caziques upon one side, and the haughty gran- 
 dees of Andalusia and Seville on the other, superadded, as 
 it usually is, to a greater lightness of figure and animation of 
 face, — whether this is not a more real beauty than that of 
 the fair and more languid senora, whose white and almost 
 transparent skin bespeaks a purer ancestry. Nor is the 
 Indian girl, with her full, lithe figure, long, glossy hair, quick 
 and mischievous eyes, who walks erect as a grenadier be- 
 neath her heavy water-jar, and salutes you in a musical, im- 
 pudent voice as you pass — nor is the Indian girl to be 
 overlooked in the novel contrasts which the " bello sexo " 
 affords in this glorious land of the sun. 
 
 We called upon several French and Italian families resi- 
 dent in Granada, but found that a long period of naturaliza- 
 tion had completely assimilated them to the natives of the 
 country, with whom they had largely intermarried. But 
 what surprised us most was, that in the best houses it was no 
 uncommon thing to find a shop occupying the " csquina," or 
 corner, or a room on one side of the court, in which few of 
 the ladies thought it derogatory to their dignity or a violation 
 of propriety, to preside on any necessary occasion. In fact, 
 these shops were generally superintended by the wife of the 
 proprietor, seated with her sewing in her lap, in an easy 
 chair, behind the low counter. And even in entertaining 
 her visitors in the grand sala, it was common for the lady to 
 keep an eye to what was passing in the " tienda," through a 
 convenient, open door. In the larger establishments, how- 
 ever, there exists all the paraphernalia of clerks and attend- 
 ants which we find at home. 
 
S ^m&^K^m^^ ^ ^ BS aS B^ ^ KS N&^ ^sS^ 
 
 THE ROBBER CHIEFTAIN. 
 
 155 
 
 When we returned from our visits, we found a party of 
 three Americans waiting for us. One was Dr. S., who had 
 resided for many years in the country, where he held the 
 first place as a " medico," and was a universal favorite 
 amongst all classes of the people. By him we were intro- 
 duced to the others, both of whom had come out with the 
 company of Californians to which I have alluded. Mr. P., 
 who was to have acted as engineer of the preposterous craft 
 which was anchored off the Castillo, was reduced by illness, 
 and being unable to accompany the party, had abandoned 
 it, and was thus far on his return to the United States ; 
 but sick and destitute, was now anxiously awaiting my arri- 
 val, to procure the means of reaching home. He, however, 
 was comfortably situated, having been generously and hos- 
 pitably received by Senor Lacavo, a prominent native mer- 
 chant, who had, in the current phrase of the country, placed 
 "his house at the disposition" of the stranger. The third 
 person was a young physician from New Haven, from whom 
 we learned that the Californians were still detained at Leon 
 and Chinandega, waiting for a vessel to take them off, in 
 great impatience and discontent. Wearied of the delays, 
 this gentleman had returned on a flying visit to Granada, 
 where he had been staying for a fortnight. Meantime, the 
 disturbances in the country had come to a crisis, and the day 
 of our arrival he had attempted to return to Leon, but 
 was turned back by armed parties on the road, who gave 
 him the unsolicited pleasure of looking down their presented 
 musket-barrels, by way of enforcing their wishes. The 
 doctor, who had met Somoza in times past, and entertained 
 a good deal of faith in his personal influence and prowess, 
 informed us that the rebel chief had once been imprisoned 
 in Granada, and owed it a special spite. He had sworn to 
 burn the city, and the doctor was of opinion that he would 
 keep his word. He thought we might, any night, have an 
 attack ; but felt confident that foreigners, keeping out of the 
 
156 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 way, would sustain no injury. At any rate, if the worst 
 came to the worst, we could all collect together, under the 
 American flag, and between revolvers, rifles, and what not 
 new invention, make a respectable fight against the poorly 
 armed assailants. And by way of encouragement, the doctor 
 gave us an animated account of a party of foreigners, but live 
 or six in number, who some years before had sustained a siege 
 of three days, in this very city, and kept their assailants at 
 bay, until they were dispersed by the troops of the govern- 
 ment. 
 
 I had arranged that afternoon to ride to the cacao estates 
 called the "Malaccas," distant about five miles from Grana- 
 da ; and although the city was full of stories about the " fac- 
 ciosos" who infested the country, I persisted in my determi- 
 nation to go. My companions thought they could entertain 
 themselves very well in the city ; so I armed Ben, and 
 with an English Creole merchant resident here, who kindly 
 furnished horses, started for the Malaccas. We had already 
 discovered that the horses of Nicaragua were of the Arabian 
 stock ; and although like the Arab horses small, they were 
 compact, fleet, good tempered, spirited, and of excellent bot- 
 tom. As all travelling here is performed on horseback 
 or on mules, great care is used in breaking and training 
 saddle beasts, while their price depends less upon their 
 beauty than upon their training. They are all taught 
 a rapid but exceedingly easy gait, between trotting and 
 pacing, called the paso-trote. A well-trained horse strikes at 
 once into this gait, and keeps it steadily from morning to 
 night. I have ridden them from twenty to fort}'" miles at a 
 heat, without once breaking the pace, and with less fatigue 
 than would be occasioned in riding the best saddle-horses in 
 the United States for a distance of five miles. At this gait 
 the horse gets over the level roads of Nicaragua, at from 
 six to eight miles the hour. The same animal is fre- 
 quently taught several gaits, and may be forced into one 
 
8M B8M B | WW^ f Q | 
 
 EBHB 
 
 HORSES AND HORSEMEN. 
 
 157 
 
 or the other by a peculiar pressure on the bit, which is very 
 different from those used in the United States, and gives the 
 most perfect control of the animal to the rider. Besides the 
 paso-trote, which may be called the ordinary gait, the horses 
 are taught an easy amble, the paso-llano, which is very rapid, 
 and yet so gentle that, as observed by a recent Peruvian 
 traveller, the rider may carry a cup of water in his hand 
 without spilling a drop, while going at the rate of six miles 
 an hour. There are also other gaits taught to different 
 horses, which have each their advocates ; among them the 
 paso-portante, in which the horse raises the fore and hind foot 
 of each side simultaneously, causing a rapid see-saw motion, 
 not agreeable to riders generally. 
 
 The saddles are modifications of the Mexican saddle, with 
 high peaks, over which are thrown gaudily colored sheep- 
 skins, here called "pillons," or "pellons." The equipment is 
 not complete without a pair of holsters and pistols ; and a 
 Nicaraguan " caballero" is never so much in his element as 
 when mounted on a spirited, champing horse, with a fanciful 
 " pillon," jingling bit, and portentous spurs, his sombrero, 
 covered with oiled silk, set jauntily on the side of his head, 
 with a senora or two in a neighboring balcony to whom he 
 may lift his hat as he passes by. The ordinary saddle, or 
 " albarda," is a very cheap affair, aud will hardly admit of a 
 description which shall be comprehensible to the uninitiated 
 reader. It is sometimes used from preference, but my expe- 
 rience would never lead me to recommend it to any but an 
 inveterate enemy. 
 
 The road to the Malaccas passed through an unbroken 
 forest, into which we struck almost as soon as we left the 
 city. It was level, completely arched over with trees, whose 
 dense foliage shuts off the sun ; while cactuses, and shrubs 
 whose fragrant flowers almost compensated for the thorns 
 which pricked one's legs, and scratched one's hands in 
 endeavoring to pluck them, fenced in the path with a wall of 
 
158 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 verdure. Here and there we caught glimpses of the lake 
 through a vista of trees, while at intervals, narrow, well- 
 beaten paths branched off to the " hattos" and haciendas 
 which were scattered over the country, away from the prin- 
 cipal thoroughfares. We met men and boys driving or 
 riding mules loaded with corn, sacate (grass), fruits, wood, 
 and all the various articles of common use in the city, and 
 occasionally a woman going in with a basket of chickens, 
 sausages, coffee, or cacao, to be offered the next morning in 
 the market. The entire stock, in some instances, was hardly 
 worth a medio (sixpence), but this, it should be remembered, 
 is no insignificant sum, in a country where a rial (twelve 
 and a half cents) is the daily wages of a working man. All 
 these people bowed with the grace of courtiers as we rode 
 by ; for all, from the highest to the lowest, from the little 
 Indian boy who clasps his hands before him and says "buena 
 dia, seilor," to the lady who inclines her fan to her lips in 
 token of recognition, have an apparently instinctive sense of 
 politeness. 
 
 After riding some miles, we came to open fields, and passed 
 by several fine estates surrounded by ditches and cactus 
 fences in full bloom. The fourth was that which we came 
 specially to visit. A man opened the gate, and we rode in 
 and dismounted under the corridor of the house, which was 
 a large, square structure, built of adobes, and tiled. The 
 proprietor was not at home, and the family, in the unsettled 
 state of the country, had retired to the city. We were nev- 
 ertheless received with the greatest civility by the mayor- 
 domo, who insisted that we Avere hot and thirsty, and wanted 
 " algo fresco" and incontinently despatched a boy to get 
 some fresh cocoa-nuts, the milk of which, when the nut is 
 not too much matured, is transparent as water, and makes a 
 cool and delightful beverage, — especially when a drop of 
 brandy is mixed in "to take off the edge," and prevent 
 fevers ! The mayor-domo complained loudly of the condi- 
 
THE MALACCAS — CACAO ESTATES. 
 
 159 
 
 tion of public affairs ; now was the time for collecting the 
 cacao, but no men were to be had ; a few of those who had 
 been employed on the estate were implicated in the insurrec- 
 tion, others had been pressed into the army, and still others 
 had fled to the seclusion of the fields, to avoid the same fate. 
 He had only half a dozen boys and some women to assist 
 him, and they were "sin valor, nada," of small account. He 
 showed us a large square space where the ground was beaten 
 hard and swept clean, in which the nuts, after being removed 
 from the husks, were spread on skins to dry. They required 
 to be turned often to prevent moulding, and after becoming 
 thoroughly dry, had to be carefully assorted, one by one, and 
 packed in skins. 
 
 After resting awhile, we mounted again, and riding through 
 a long gravelled walk, completely fenced in and arched over 
 by magnificent mango trees, now literally golden with fruit, 
 and through a vista of orange trees beyond, flanked by maran- 
 ons, we entered the cacao plantation. It is difficult to de- 
 scribe these plantations ; they more resemble beautiful parks 
 of large trees, with broad walks running in every direction, 
 all kept scrupulously neat and clean, than anything else in 
 the United States with which they can be compared. The 
 tree producing the fruit is known to botanists by the generic 
 name of Theobroma, from the Greek, and signifying food for 
 a god. It seldom rises higher than twenty feet ; its leaves 
 are large, oblong, and pointed, somewhat resembling those of 
 the cherry tree, but infinitely larger ; flowers small, and of a 
 pale red color : they are surrounded by oval-pointed pods, 
 grooved like a musk-melon, although much smaller ; the nuts 
 are very numerous, some pods containing as many as fifty ; 
 it produces two crops a-year, but is never without some pods 
 on it. The trees are planted about fourteen feet apart, in a 
 good soil. It is peculiarly necessary to defend this tree from 
 the scorching rays of the sun, and at the same time sufficient 
 warmth should be afforded for vegetation ; this is done by 
 
ICO 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 shading it with the plantain tree and the Erythrina. As the 
 cacao advances in size, the plantain is cnt down, the Ery- 
 thrina, or coral tree, or as it is sometimes called " cacao 
 madre" mother of the cacao, having attained sufficient height 
 to protect it from the sun. It begins to bear at seven years 
 old, and comes to perfection in about fifteen years. The 
 coral tree grows to about the height of sixty feet, and entirely 
 drops its leaves (in Nicaragua) about the end of March and 
 beginning of April, and then becomes covered with flowers 
 of a bright crimson, and shaped like a cimetar. At this sea- 
 son an extensive plain, covered with cacao plantations, is a 
 magnificent object, Avhen viewed from a height. The tops of 
 the far-stretching forests of Erythrina then present the ap- 
 pearance of being clothed with flames. The cacao, it may 
 be added, is indigenous to America, and became early an 
 article of general consumption by the Spanish Americans, as 
 it had been of the Indians from time immemorial. Subse- 
 quently to the Discovery it was introduced into the Canary 
 and Phillipine islands by the Spaniards. It was called tlalca- 
 cahuatl by the ancient Mexicans ; amongst whom, as also 
 among the natives of Central America, New Granada, and 
 Peru, it was used as money, or a medium of exchange. It is 
 still used as such in the markets of the cities of Granada and 
 Leon. One hundred and fifty of the nuts were formerly 
 valued at a dollar, which is, I believe, their present valua- 
 tion. The cacao of Nicaragua is regarded as second to none, 
 unless to that of Soconusco, which, during the Spanish do- 
 minion, was a monopoly of the crown. It is almost entirely 
 consumed in the country, where it commands double the 
 price of the Guayaquil, that which usually reaches the United 
 States. 1 The taste for chocolate grows with its use, and 
 
 1 Great confusion exists in the popular mind in respect to Cocoa, Cacao, 
 and Coca, which are very generally confounded with each other, although 
 differing as widely as almost any three products which it is possible to 
 mention. Cocoa is the name given to a species of palm, producing ihe 
 
COCOA — CACAO — COCA. 
 
 161 
 
 hardly any person resides under the tropics for any length of 
 time, to whom it does not become more an article of necessi- 
 ty than luxury. " He who has drunk one cup," says Cortez, in 
 one of his letters, "can travel a whole day without any other 
 food, especially in very hot climates ; for chocolate is, by its 
 nature, cold and refreshing." And the quaint old traveller 
 in Central America, Gage, devotes a whole chapter to its 
 praise, the manner of its use, and its effects on the human 
 system. lie asserts that chocolate " is an Indian name, com- 
 pounded from atl, which in the Mexican language signifies 
 water, and choco-choco-choco, the sound which water makes 
 when stirred in a cup." He claims for it a most healthful 
 influence, and bears his testimony as follows : " For myself, 
 I must say, I used it for twelve years constantly, drinking one 
 cup in the morning, another yet before dinner, between nine 
 and ten of the clock ; another within an hour or two after 
 dinner, and another between four and five in the afternoon ; 
 and when I purposed to sit up late to study, I would take 
 another cup about seven or eight at night, which would keep 
 
 cocoa-nut, which is too well known to need description. Cacao, the fruit 
 of the cacao-tree, (Tlieobroma cacao,) described in the text. This fruit is 
 described in the scientific books "as a large coriaceous capsule, having 
 nearly the form of a cucumber, from the seeds of which the buttery and 
 slightly bitter substance called cacao, or chocolate, is prepared." Coca is 
 the name given to a shrub, {Erylhroxylon cocdj) which grows on the eastern 
 declivities of the Andes of Peru and Bolivia; and is, to the natives of those 
 countries, what opium and betel are to those of Southern Asia. Its leaves, 
 which are chewed by the Indians, have such an effect in allaying hunger 
 and thirst, that those who use them can subsist several days without any 
 other nourishment. The shrub grows about six feet in height, with bright 
 green leaves and white blossoms. When the leaves are ripe, that is to 
 say, when they crack on being bent, they are gathered and dried. They 
 are chewed or eaten with a little unslackcd lime, to give them a relish. 
 When constantly used, they produce some of the deleterious effects of 
 opium. 
 
 21 
 
162 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 me waking till about midnight. And if by chance I did ne- 
 glect any of these accustomed hours, I presently found my 
 stomach fainty. And with this custom I lived for twelve 
 years in these parts, healthy, without any obstructions, or 
 oppilations ; not knowing what either Fever or Ague was." 
 He, however, warns against the use of the cacao before pre- 
 paration, for the reason that the simple nut, when eaten, as 
 it often is by the Creole and Indian women, " doth notably 
 obstruct and cause stoppings, and makes them look of a pale 
 and earthy color, as do those that eat earthenware and pieces 
 of lime wall." 1 
 
 As I have already said, the cacao tree is so delicate, and so 
 sensitive to exposure, that great care is required to preserve 
 it during the early periods of its growth. It commences 
 to bear in seven or eight years, and continues productive 
 for from thirty to fifty years. Capital and time arc there- 
 fore required to start an estate ; but once established, it is 
 easily enlarged by animal additions. One man, it is calcu- 
 
 1 After giving expression to his enthusiasm on the subject of Cacao, 
 Gage becomes philosophical, and discourses thus lucidly upon what, in 
 these transcendental days, would be called ' ; the dual nature, harmoniously 
 blended," of this wonderful product: 
 
 "Cacao, although a Simple, contains the Quality of the four Elements; 
 yet it is held to be cold and dry. a pnrdomino. It is also in the sub- 
 stance that rules these two Qualities, restringent and obstructive, of the 
 Nature of the Element of the Earth. And as it is thus a mixed and nota 
 Simple Element, it hath parts correspondent to the rest of the Elements; 
 and particularly it partakes of those which correspond with the Element 
 of Air, — that is, heat and moisture, which are governed by unctuous parts; 
 there being drawn out of the cacao much Butter, which I have often seen 
 drawn out of it by the Criolian women to oint their faces. * * And 
 this is very conformable to reason, if we consider that every Element, be 
 it never so simple, begets and produceth in the liver four Humors, not 
 only differing in temper but substance ; and begets more or less of that 
 Humor, according as the Element hath more or fewer parts corresponding 
 to the substance of that humor which is most ingendered." — A New Sur- 
 vey of the West Indies, p. 239. 
 
CULTIVATION OF THE CACAO. 
 
 163 
 
 lated, is able to take care of a thousand trees, and harvest 
 their crop. As a consequence, cacao estates are more valu- 
 able tlran those of sugar, indigo, cotton, or cochineal. A 
 good plantation, with fair attention, will yield an average 
 annual product of twenty ounces of cacao to every tree, which 
 for <>ne thousand trees equals twelve hundred pounds. At 
 the usual market rate of twenty-five dollars the quintal, this 
 would give three hundred dollars per annum to each thou- 
 sand trees and each laborer. Owing to a variety of causes, — 
 some of the most important are obvious enough from what I 
 have already said, — this yield is seldom obtained in Nicara- 
 gua ; but may be when order is fully restored, and labor and 
 its wages properly organized. No means exist for obtaining 
 even an approximate estimate of this branch of production 
 in Nicaragua, and I shall not therefore attempt to present 
 any statistics on the subject, but proceed with my narrative. 
 
 I was delighted with the plantation, and after riding for 
 an hour, until we got bewildered amongst the cross-walks 
 and avenues, we began to thread our course back again. 
 This was no easy matter, and we marched and counter- 
 marched for a long time before we struck the right path. 
 This will not appear so surprising Avhen I say that the plan- 
 tation contained ninety-five thousand trees, which are valued 
 at one dollar each. 
 
 ( >nce in the main road, we paced slowly along on our return 
 to the city, with that feeling of satisfaction which is always 
 experienced after visiting an object that more than realizes 
 the anticipation. I began to indulge the pleasing fancy that 
 I might yet come to have a cacao plantation, which would 
 be just the thing for a student or a man who loved his ease. 
 It would require no expensive machinery, no long practice 
 in manipulation of any kind ; a boy could go through all the 
 simple processes, and the whole might be left for a year or 
 two without suffering the deterioration of sugar, rice, or 
 cotton plantations. The summers in El Norte, and the win- 
 
164 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 ters here amidst the cacao and orange, with only a few days 
 of steaming between, — of course the thing was feasible. 
 
 While indulging such reveries as these, my horse, which 
 was the fastest walker, had carried me some distance ahead 
 of my companion, when turning a sharp corner, I came 
 abruptly upon a party of armed men, reclining in easy atti- 
 tudes under a large cebia tree. I at once drew rein, and 
 they as suddenly leaped to their feet and formed in line. 
 My companion at that moment coming up, hurried past me, 
 in evident anxiety as to the character of the party, and I fol- 
 lowed close at his heels. One who seemed to be in command, 
 stepped forward as we approached, exclaiming, " Quien 
 vive ?" " Amigos," friends, replied my companion, cautiously 
 avoiding the pass-word of the government, until he knew 
 whether the party was a strolling band of " facciosos," or 
 regular troops of the State. Meantime we continued to 
 approach, as if in perfect confidence, until ordered to stop 
 by the person in authority, who advanced a few steps and 
 scrutinized us for some moments, and then, with the air of a 
 man satisfied, motioned us to go on. As I passed, he lifted 
 his hat in recognition, exclaiming, " Adios, Seiior Ministro !" 
 
 It was a disguised scout from the garrison, on the lookout 
 for a party of insurgents which was reported to be commit- 
 ting some excesses in this direction. I had been quite ex- 
 cited with the prospect of an adventure, and even indulged 
 a vague hope that the one in command might prove to be 
 Somoza himself; the upshot was, therefore, something of a 
 disappointment. An interview with the robber chief, whose 
 name carried terror through the whole country, and a hand- 
 some villain withal, — what a paragraph it would have made 
 in these " Incidents of Travel !" I was clearly not in luck, 
 but comforted myself with the possibility of a night assault 
 upon the city, in anticipation of which Ben daily examined 
 our armory, re-capped each formidable Colt, and had even 
 prepared the proper timbers for barricading our house at a 
 
ALARMS AND SUSPENSE. 
 
 165 
 
 moment's notice. I tried to work myself into a state of ex- 
 citement, anxiety, and suspense, but it was of no use ; we ate 
 and drank inordinately, slept soundly, and altogether voted 
 insurrections to be humbugs and bores. 
 
 There was great anxiety for the arrival of the commander- 
 in-chief of the forces of the State, General Munoz, with rein- 
 forcements, and we were amused for a week with rumors 
 that he had just started from Leon with a thousand men, — 
 was within two days' march, — and then that he had not 
 started at all, that there was trouble in other departments, — 
 in short, the city was in a fever, and full of reports ; to 
 which, after a few days, we ceased to listen, or listened only 
 to laugh at them. We almost concurred with the Senorita 
 Teresa in the wish that Somoza or General Munoz would 
 come, — she didn't care much which ; for in either case tins 
 chronic state of alarm would be terminated. Upon the 
 whole, she would rather prefer that the General should 
 arrive, for he was the most polished man in the country, and 
 withal would bring his military band, and then there would 
 be no end to the evening music in the plaza, and the " tertu- 
 lias " and balls afterwards ! 
 
 Between baths in the lake at early dawn, delicious snoozes 
 in hammocks at noon, rides on the beach in the evening, 
 dinners, visits, and a general overhauling of books, papers, 
 and baggage, time passed rapidly and pleasantly enough for 
 a week. During that period, I had put our sick countryman 
 in funds, and he had started from Los Cocos, at the head of 
 the lake, in a bongo owned at San Juan, for that port, there 
 to wait a vessel for the United States. He came one after- 
 noon to bid us good-bye, and as I looked in his pale face, 
 momentarily flushed with the excitement of starting for 
 home and friends, and heard his low, weak voice, I could not 
 help thinking that the poor fellow would never reach his 
 native land, and little supposed then that I should ever see 
 him or hear from him again. But what was our surprise 
 
166 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 when, some live or six days thereafter, lie came trotting into 
 the court on a sorry mule, and in most woful plight. His 
 eyes were very large, and his whole appearance that of a 
 man who bears important news. He did not wait to be 
 questioned, but started off at once with " I've seen him, I've 
 seen Somoza !" Plis voice had all come back again. We 
 got the whole of the story directly, told with a naivete and 
 earnestness which in themselves, apart from the incidents, 
 were convulsing. He had embarked in a small bongo, with 
 a colored gentleman, his wife, and two children, as passen- 
 gers, — catalogued in the recital as " an old nigger, a fat 
 wench, and two naked picaninnies." The narrow cliopa he 
 had the satisfaction of sharing with these pleasant compan- 
 ions ; but after one night's trial, he had arranged that he 
 might occupy it alone in the afternoons, on condition that 
 his fellow-passengers should have exclusive possession of it 
 the rest of the time. The second night, therefore, he watched 
 the stars and kicked his heels in the bow, and had only just 
 commenced his afternoon's lease on the succeeding day, and 
 began dreaming of home, when he was aroused by a great 
 commotion and loud words. He found the sails all taken in, 
 a boat full of armed men, with a swivel at the bow, along- 
 side, and a number of others similarly manned close by. 
 His colored companion was dumb, and of a dull ashy color, 
 while the spouse, with a child in each arm, was prone and 
 sobbing in the bottom of the boat. The crew were in a like 
 plight, their teeth fairly chattering with alarm. Standing 
 beside the mast was a tall, graceful man, with a feather in 
 his hat, a red Spanish cloak hanging over one shoulder, a 
 brace of naked pistols stuck in his belt, and a drawn sword 
 in his hand, with its point resting on the rower's seat beside 
 him, — who was questioning the trembling patron, with bent 
 brow and eagle eyes, in a tone which our friend said would 
 have drawn the truth from a stone. He comprehended at 
 once that this was Somoza, and at first had a notion of taking 
 
AN INTERVIEW WITH SOMOZA. 
 
 167 
 
 a shot at him, but thought better of it on the whole, and eon- 
 eluded to watch the turn of events, and so lay down again. 
 The questioning was kept up for a very long time, as it 
 appeared to him, while pretending to be asleep, but neverthe- 
 less keeping a sharp lookout. When he had finished, 
 Somoza gave some order to his men, and stepped towards 
 the chopa. Our poor friend thought it all up with him, but 
 the insurgent chief only stooped down and took his arm, ex- 
 claiming, with a smile, in broken English, " How do, me 
 amigo Americano?" Greatly relieved, our friend got up, 
 whereupon Somoza dropped his sword, and throwing his 
 arms around him, gave him an embrace, la Mspaiiola, which 
 made his back ache even now to think of. This was repeated 
 several times, until the pain, overcoming all alarm, he cried 
 in very agony, "No mas, senor, no mas!" No more, sir, no 
 more ! But this infliction only terminated to give place to 
 another ; for, taking both of our friend's hands in his own, 
 with the gripe of a vice, he shook them until his arms were 
 on the point of leaving his shoulders ; delivering, meantime, 
 an energetic oration, perfectly unintelligible to his auditor, 
 who could only ejaculate, in broken syllables, "Si, senor ! si, 
 si, senor ! !" yes, sir! yes, yes sir! !" This finished, Somoza 
 took a splendid ring from his finger, and insisted on placing 
 it on the hand of our friend, who, however, looking upon it 
 in the double light of stolen property and a bribe, sturdily 
 refused to accept it. He gathered that Somoza was going to 
 attack San Carlos, and thus get possession of the arms and 
 ammunition stored there, and of which he stood in much 
 need. Somoza parted from him with much kindness, and 
 after giving some orders in a threatening tone to the patron, 
 retired to his own boat ; whereupon the patron and his crew 
 picked up their oars and pulled like mad, on the back track 
 towards Granada. The last glimpse that was had of So mo/a, 
 he was standing in the stern of his boat, conspicuous amongst 
 
168 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 his half-naked men, from his red cloak and dancing plume, 
 worn after the fashion of the mailed conquistadors. 
 
 Somoza, we afterwards learned, affected great attachment 
 to the Americans, and at an early stage of his operations, 
 had sent a courier to our Consul, bearing a letter fall of 
 assurances of good feeling, and expressing his determination 
 after "regulating the Government," of proceeding to San 
 Juan to expel the English " ladroncs." He was neverthe- 
 less accused of being in the English interest, and acting 
 directly or indirectly under British instigation. 
 
 I have, in a preceding chapter, anticipated the result of 
 Somoza's visit to San Carlos, in its capture and that of our fat 
 friend the commandante. The capture was made without 
 firing a gun, nor was it attended with excesses of any kind. 
 
 With the information thus obtained of the whereabouts 
 and destination of Somoza, the long-expected attack on the 
 city receded in the distant perspective, and I resolved to pro- 
 ceed at once to Leon, especially as I began to entertain sus- 
 picions that the obstacles in the way had been magnified with 
 a view of keeping us in Granada as pledges for its safety. 
 That afternoon, however, a courier, which I had despatched 
 to Leon, returned, bringing positive intelligence that General 
 Mufiozwason the road, and at that moment at the large 
 Indian town of Masaya, half a day's march distant, where he 
 had arrested a number of persons implicated in the insurrec- 
 tion, and, in virtue of extraordinary powers, conceded by 
 Government, was engaged in trying them by the summary 
 process of martial law. He brought advices from Mr. Consul 
 Livingston, that a party of twenty-five volunteers from among 
 the Californians stopping in Leon had been furnished with 
 horses by the Government, and would set out in a day or 
 two for Granada, to escort the Legation to the capital. He 
 also brought a number of the Governmental decrees and pro- 
 clamations, showing that the state authorities were taking the 
 
■M 
 
 ACTION OF THE GOVERNMENT. 
 
 169 
 
 most efficient means in their power to put clown the insur- 
 gents and restore the peace of the State. Perhaps the mode 
 of precedure cannot be better shown than by the following 
 proclamations, decrees, and announcements, from the official 
 bulletins, which will also serve to give an insight into the 
 nature of the troubles which afflicted the State, .and illustrate 
 the style of composition, and the character of the appeals 
 made use of by those in public station. The latter were 
 of necessity adapted to touch the popular mind, and must 
 therefore, give us some idea of its bent, the principles which 
 it regarded as most important to be sustained, and the dangers 
 most essential to be arrested. I have already intimated that 
 the existing troubles had their primary origin in the viru- 
 lence of the parties which divided the State ; but that the 
 proximate cause of the insurrection was the malefactor, So- 
 moza, who had gathered a considerable number of reckless 
 characters around him, and set all' law at defiance. At first, 
 and until overt acts were committed, such was the strength 
 of party feeling, it is not impossible that the opposition to 
 the Government was disposed to regard the movements of 
 Somoza with indulgence, if not positive favor. But when it 
 became apparent that his blows were aimed at all order, and 
 that his real objects were revenge and plunder, party distinc- 
 tions were forgotten; the opposition no longer looked upon 
 his acts in the simple light of being embarrassing to the Gov- 
 ernment, but as directed against themselves and the body 
 politic, and, forgetting all their previous predilections, heart- 
 ily seconded the measures which were adopted to restore the 
 public peace. 
 
 In one of the public papers of the time it was said : 
 
 " In every republic, parties have always existed, and always will exist. 
 It is right and necessary that they should, in order to act as checks one on 
 the other, and thus protect the public welfare. Honestly differing in 
 their views of certain measures of national policy, and in the decision of 
 which every citizen must feel the deepest interest, we have long had, in 
 
 22 
 
170 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 Nicaragua, two parties, bearing the somewhat extraordinary names of 
 ' Timlmcos 1 and ' Calandracas.' So far from regarding this circumstance 
 as a thing to be deplored, the well-wishers of the State have witnessed 
 it with satisfaction, as showing that the people at large comprehended 
 the nature of republican institutions, and the necessity of deciding for 
 themselves, upon whatever, of a public nature, might affect them or their 
 interests. We have seen one of these parties, after a long Btruggle, in 
 which arguments were substituted for bayonets, and ballots for bullets, 
 succeeding the other, and reforming the fundamental law of the State, 
 while the other, as in duty bound, yielded peaceably to the will of the 
 majority. The laborer pursued his avocations undisturbed while this 
 peaceable revolution was going on; the merchant continued his legiti- 
 mate business ; no blood was spilled, no women widowed, or children 
 rendered fatherless. 
 
 " The monstrous faction which now threatens the State belongs to no 
 party ; it is a Vandalic horde, aiming, by vile means, at unwarrantable 
 ends, and directing its efforts against the Government, not because of the 
 policy of that Government, but because it is charged with the execution 
 and vindication of the laws which this faction would annul and destroy I 
 It is made up of enemies of order, of liberty, and of humanity. Let not 
 former differences of opinion blind men to the real enormity of the insur- 
 rection ; let no party favor this attempt to overturn not only the existing, 
 but all governments, and plant anarchy in the soil of peace. When the 
 country is threatened, we are neither ' Timbucos' nor ' Calandracas,' but 
 Nicaraguans. We cannot believe that this faction, which has no princi- 
 ples, no policy, no moral incentives to action, and whose constant object 
 is the destruction of society, can find sympathy or support, except amongst 
 assassins and robbers." 
 
 The first step taken by the Government, upon ascertaining 
 the formidable character of the insurrection, is indicated 
 below. 
 
 OFFICIAL BULLETIN. 
 
 Leon, June 19, 1849. 
 •• No man shall be molested or persecuted on account of his opinions, of whatever 
 nature they may be, provided that he does not by any overt act infringe the laws." 
 — Art- 30 of the Constitution. 
 
 "Every one has seen with horror the devastation which has followed 
 in the steps of the barbarous Bernabe Somoza since his arrival in the 
 
ACTION OF THE GOVERNMENT. 
 
 171 
 
 town of St. George, in the Department Meridional. He burned and 
 desolated its haciendas, and gave the city of Kivas to the flames, at the 
 same time that, with the horde that follows him, he attacked the garrison 
 of the line, and the various patriots assembled there, who, after having 
 sustained a siege of eleven days, in the most heroic manner, were com- 
 pelled to retreat; — therefore, the Supreme Government, in discharge of 
 the duties imposed upon it by humanity, religion, and the country, has 
 issued the following extraordinary decrees : 
 
 "God, Union, Liberty." 
 
 Department of War; 
 House of the Government, Leon, June 19, 1849. 
 " To the Oeneral-in- Chief, Commanding the Regular Forces of the State : 
 
 " Sir : The Supreme Executive Power has ordered me to communicate 
 to you the following decrees for execution : BUITRAGO." 
 
 No. 1. 
 " It having become necessary to the well-being of the State to put an 
 end to the anarchical movements which threaten with destruction the 
 persons and properties of the Departments Oriental and Meridional, and 
 which now disturb the general peace, therefore, in view of this peremptory 
 exigency, and in order to save the liberty of the people, and to put the 
 State in a position to defend its independence and integrity, now placed 
 in extreme danger by the refusal of the British Government to listen to 
 our claims of redress against the usurpation of the most precious part of 
 our territories, in conformity with Art. 48, Sec. 9, of the Constitution, it 
 has been and is 
 
 DECREED : 
 
 " Art. 1. All citizens of Nicaragua, from the ages of sixteen to fifty years, 
 are required by the fundamental law to take up arms in support of the 
 public order and territorial integrity of the State, excepting only the 
 clergy, and those who, by some physical defect, are absolutely incapaci- 
 tated for military service. 
 
 " Art. 2. They are therefore required to present themselves for enrolment, 
 with their equipments, and all horses and mules which they may pos- 
 sess, before the chief of the forces of the line in this city, or before the 
 legionary commanders in the departments. 
 
 •'Art. 3. The horses and mules as aforesaid of those who do not present 
 themselves, are liable to be seized by detachments of troops sent out for 
 
172 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 that purpose, and the owners will incur the penalty, in ease they are 
 lost, of being excluded from recovering their value, as provided by Art. 
 173, Sec. 1, of the Constitution, besides being themselves subject to 
 the penalties prescribed by Art. 104 of the penal code. 
 " Art. 4. The forces which may be enrolled shall hold themselves in 
 readiness to move whenever and wherever required. 
 "Given in Leon this 19th of June, 1849. 
 
 "NORBERTO RAMIREZ." 
 
 No. 2. 
 "To save the State from anarchy, and to enable it to defend its terri- 
 torial integrity, in compliance with duty, and in use of constitutional 
 power, it is 
 
 DECREED: 
 Art. 1. That the General in Chief, Don Jose Trinidad Munoz, is 
 fully authorized to put an end to the existing insurrection, and to restore 
 complete order, as also to place the State in an attitude to defend its 
 territorial integrity ; his orders are therefore to be punctually executed 
 by the legionary commanders, and exactly complied with by the com- 
 missaries, not only for ordinary but extraordinary expenses. 
 
 Given in Leon, this 19th of June, 1849. 
 
 NORBERTO RAMIREZ. 
 
 Decrees were also issued for the collection of an extraordi- 
 nary tax r and requiring persons entering the various towns 
 to procure passports. The proclamation of the Supreme Di- 
 rector, Kamirez, was a well written appeal to the patriotism 
 of the people, concluding as follows : 
 
 " No good object can be attained by disturbing the public peace, and 
 the misguided men who have joined in these lawless movements forget 
 that their interests are identical with those of all other citizens ; forget 
 that their conduct must destroy every social and civil privilege, and 
 plunge society into its savage, chaotic state, when might shall subvert 
 right; and when life, liberty, nor possessions are secure. Hatred begets 
 hatred, and vengeance, vengeance ; and they who strike against the 
 wholesome restraints of law, will themselves be stricken down in its fall. 
 
 " People of Nicaragua, by your choice I have been placed in a position 
 where my authority is individually greater than yours; but your blood 
 
APPEALS OF THE GOVERNMENT. 
 
 173 
 
 has as much value as mine ; my interests are yours, and those of the 
 nation. Let me then, both as a magistrate and a citizen, conjure you, in 
 the name of humanity, by our hopes of future prosperity, and on behalf 
 of our country, to rally to the support of the constitution and the laws, 
 and thus confound our enemies, and realize the blessings which shall 
 flow from peace and the maintenance of public order." 
 
 The address of the General in Chief of the State to his 
 soldiers, furnishes a very favorable example of the style of 
 such documents in Central America; and its introduction 
 will, in this respect at least, prove interesting. 
 
 "Soldiers! 
 
 " The honored standard of order, which you have hitherto so gloriously 
 sustained, is again attacked. Forty intrepid men of your number covered 
 themselves with glory, in maintaining the city of Rivas against overwhelming 
 numbers ; yielding only with their lives the trust confided to their care. 
 Since their lamented fall, over which a bereaved country is still weeping, 
 there has been no check on the wanton atrocities of the robbers and 
 Vandals who overcame them. The devastation which moves with the 
 insurgents will extend all over the State, if not opposed by the honor, 
 valor, and patriotism you have so conspicuously exhibited in other days. 
 What will become of our beautiful country, companions in arms, if this 
 turbulence, which finds its food in blood and ashes, does not encounter, 
 in its savage progress, the invincible obstacle of your courage ? 
 
 " You are called upon to guard the supreme powers of the State, as 
 you have sworn to do at the foot of your flag. Your loyalty and heroism 
 have been and are still the shield of the country, not less than the terror of 
 those who compass its destruction and your enslavement. The soul of the 
 hero of Rivas, the valiant Martinez, will glory in your triumph over the 
 enemies of the country for which he died ! 
 
 " Fellow Citizens, Friends of Society ! 
 
 " Social order is attacked ; the lava of sanguinary destruction threatens 
 to overflow our dearest interests. The assassin of the honored Venerio, 
 and of the innocent Solorio, the destroyer of the pacific Rivas, and the 
 hated cause of innumerable other misfortunes, has seduced a portion of 
 the unreflecting people of the department Meridional from their allegiance, 
 and is leading them into the direst iniquities, while, like another Nero, 
 he revels above the ruins of the capitol of that unfortunate department. 
 But if your valor and patriotism unite to support the cause of order, they 
 
174 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 will interpose an efficient obstacle to the dangers which threaten us, and 
 turn back in confusion the enemies of the State. 
 
 " The supreme government, the centre of order, has invested me with 
 the largest authority to act for its support ; and with your effective aid, I 
 go with my soldiers to fulfill the duties with which I am charged. The 
 country asks, if it need be, the lives of her sons; our wives, mothers, and 
 children look to you in this emergency for the security of their liberty and 
 lives! 
 
 JOSE TRINIDAD MUNOZ. 
 
 "Head-quarters, June 21, 1849." 
 
 The subjoined is also a specimen of the announcements 
 and appeals made by the editors of the official Bulletin, with 
 the view to rouse the patriotism of the people, and concen- 
 trate their indignation against the insurgents. 
 
 " We denounced before the people, in a previous number, the incendi- 
 arism, pillage, and bloodshed, with which that most ferocious barbarian, 
 (antropofugo,) Bernabe Somoza, had desolated the department Meridional ; 
 but those crimes were as nothing in comparison with the most unheard-of 
 outrages and unparalleled barbarisms which he has more recently com- 
 mitted in that important section of the State. He has spared neither age 
 nor sex, not even the unresisting wounded, nor the corpses of the dead; 
 and with impious hand lias seized upon the sacred vessels in the temple 
 of the God of Justice, who, penetrating at a single glance the hearts of 
 men, and always as just as inexorable in the end, will as assuredly save 
 the virtuous, as he will, with his terrible lightnings, strike down the 
 wicked and (he criminal. In evidence of the new and almost incredible 
 horrors which have filled up the cup of sorrow, for all those who possess 
 souls and human sympathies, we publish the following account, communi- 
 cated by Don Trinidad Salazar, commandant in the department Oriental, 
 to the General-in-chief: 
 
 '"I have positive news from llivas, that Somoza is still in that city, 
 perpetrating every excess. He has shot all the wounded ; robbed even 
 the sacred vessels in the churches, and is on the eve of entirely burning 
 the city. He has disinterred the body of Lieut. Col. Martinez, and dragged 
 it naked through the streets. In short, these are but few examples of 
 the thousand horrible acts committed by this barbarous man. Within 
 an hour has died in this city, from the effects of his wounds, our friend, 
 the brave Capt. Santos Ramirez, notwithstanding every means were ex- 
 
APPEALS TO THE PEOPLE. 
 
 175 
 
 hausted to save him ; and it only remains for me to pay his remains 
 their last sad honors.' 
 
 "How terrible to the imagination, how disgraceful to humanity, are 
 deeds like these, committed on the spot consecrated by the blood of the 
 hero and Christian, the honored Don Manuel Antonio de la Cerda, first 
 chief of Nicaragua, whose sacred corpse was also thus outraged in those 
 days of barbarism which have been looked back to with horror, but 
 which bear no parallel to those now passing in that unfortunate depart- 
 ment. 
 
 " But those noble soldiers, the brave Martinez and Ramirez, shall re- 
 ceive the rites of sepulchre in our hearts. There we will engrave deep 
 their memories. Their conduct shall be forever an example to our soldiers, 
 to the friends of humanity, and the admirers of true honor. Our breasts 
 shall be the temples where they shall receive the tribute of our gratitude, 
 and immortal glory. God's justice and the sword of the violated laws 
 have gone forth to avenge their blood!" 
 
 Having received these documents and the information 
 accompanying them, I relinquished the idea of an immediate 
 departure, and determined to wait for the arrival of the Cal- 
 ifornian escort. The news of the General's approach created 
 great joy ; and the bells were rung and guns fired in token 
 of satisfaction. He was expected to arrive the next day ; 
 and that evening a "banda" was published, requiring the 
 houses on the principal streets and on the plaza to be deco- 
 rated, and everything put in order to receive him. The pub- 
 lication of the "banda" was a novelty to us. It was done 
 in this wise : a party of soldiers, preceded by a drum and 
 fife, and a municipal officer, marched through all the princi- 
 pal streets, stopping at each corner, when the music ceased, 
 and the officer took off his hat and read the proclamation 
 aloud, while the people thrust out their heads and listened. 
 We laughed at first at this new mode of publishing the laws, 
 but in the end came to regard it as not a bad idea. 
 
 That evening, there being no longer fear of the "facciosos," 
 we had no difficulty in making up a large riding party for the 
 Laguna de Salinas, distant about four miles from the city, 
 which was represented to us as being lower than lake Nica- 
 
176 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATI VE. 
 
 ragua, salt, and shut in by perpendicular rocks. We fol- 
 lowed the " camino real," in the direction of Leon, for a 
 short distance, and then turned off on a narrow mule path, 
 amongst the trees and bushes. It was very evident that the 
 "caballeros" who accompanied us were determined to show 
 us a specimen of their horsemanship, and rode at breakneck 
 pace, keeping a bright lookout for the trunks and branches 
 of the trees, now bending to their horses' necks to escape the 
 latter, and now throwing their feet dextrously out of the 
 stirrups, to avoid hitting the former. Thanks to early 
 habits of life, this was no very severe trial to me, and I kept 
 even pace with the rest, to their evident surprise, and the 
 strengthening of their conviction that the Yankees were 
 "up" to everything. We passed, here and there, a cane 
 hut, surrounded by plantain trees, corn-fields, and patches of 
 yucas, over ridges of volcanic scoriae, covered only with grass, 
 down into ravines with a scramble, and out again with a 
 leap, and in half an hour came to the brink of the lake. I 
 dismounted, and pushed through the trees and bushes to the 
 edge of the precipice, and saw, far down, hundreds of feet 
 below me, the glistening waters of the lake, surrounded on 
 all sides by the same bare, blistered, black walls, with a rim 
 of verdure skirting the water's edge. Mounting again, we 
 rode a little further, to the sole place of descent, in part 
 natural, but chiefly artificial. A narrow path, half-cut, half- 
 worn, in the rock, wound down before us, something after 
 the manner of the winding stairways in monumental columns, 
 only not so wide. The horses picked their way cautiously, 
 avoiding the loose stones, while the rider had enough to do 
 to prevent his legs from being jammed against the wall of 
 rock on either hand. A man had previously been sent 
 ahead, to see that the way was clear, for there is no turning 
 around in this narrow passage, which no doubt owes its origin 
 to the aborigines, and is hardly wide enough to admit the 
 passage of a horse. This cut passed, we came to a place 
 
LAGUNA DE SALINAS. 
 
 177 
 
 where the fallen debris and rocks made a kind of shelf or 
 terrace. Here we left our horses, the declivity below being 
 very steep, and the rocks slippery withal, and proceeded on 
 foot,' — leaping from one stone to the other, and catching at 
 bushes and saplings to check our descent. We soon came to 
 the shore of the lake, where, bej^ond a line or belt of bushes, 
 was a narrow beach of fine sand. The water was very clear 
 and limpid, but had a sulphury or yellowish green color 
 where it was deeper, a little distance from the shore. It was 
 slightly salt to the taste, from the minerals held in solution. 
 We observed some small fishes, and were told that there 
 were alligators, but how they got here was a mystery ; as I 
 have already said, the lake is surrounded by absolutely pre- 
 cipitous walls of rock, several hundred feet in height, with 
 no practicable descent for man or beast, except at this point. 
 It was evident enough that the lake was of volcanic origin ; 
 but in what way formed, was not so clear. The black and 
 frowning rocks seemed to imply that it was an ancient crater; 
 but this conclusion was somewhat shaken by the fact that, 
 from the plain, upon the western side of the lake, rose a con- 
 ical hill, or small mountain, which had been a volcano, and 
 exhibited a crater. Had the earth sunk suddenly here, dur- 
 ing some terrible convulsion of nature? "Quien sabe?" We 
 afterwards found numerous other lakes, equally extraordin- 
 ary, and some of considerably larger size. This one, called 
 in the aboriginal language, Lendiri, was, I should think, 
 about three miles in circumference. 1 The trees grew to the 
 very edge of the precipice, and vines and creepers hung in 
 waving festoons down its rugged sides ; altogether form- 
 ing an impressive picture. Our appreciation of it was not a 
 
 1 Oviedo (1529) says of this lake, "In the province of Diria is another 
 lake, the water of which is salt, like that of the sea; and the flavor of the 
 fish, which it produces in abundance, is far superior to that of the other 
 fresh water lakes of which I have spoken. It is about a league and a half, 
 or two leagues, from Granada, or Salteba." 
 
 23 
 
178 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 little enhanced by the feeling, half of curiosity and half of 
 awe, which every one must experience upon witnessing, for 
 the first time, the terrible effects of volcanic forces, and 
 which no familiarity ever materially weakens. 
 
 We were hot, weary, and thirsty, when we had clambered 
 again to where our horses were fastened, and emptied a flask 
 of '• agua ardiente" and water, with which one of the party 
 had considerately supplied himself, in much less time than it 
 takes me to make the confession, and with a satisfaction 
 which I shall not attempt to describe. We returned leisurely, 
 for the shades of evening were falling, and the narrow path 
 was much obscured by the trees. It Avas late when we 
 reached the city, which had now recovered from the chilling 
 influences of impending danger, and was gay and cheerful. 
 The streets were thronged with noisy children, and the 
 seiloras and senoritas were all seated in the doorways or in 
 the balconied windows, in quiet enjoyment of the cool even- 
 ing breeze, which swung the lamps, suspended in front of 
 each house, slowly to and fro. There seemed to be a sense 
 of the luxury of mere existence among the inhabitants, which 
 the traveller looks for in vain except under the tropics, and 
 which there appears to be in perfect harmony with nature. 
 
 We had scarcely entered the main street, when my com- 
 panions suddenly stopped short, and taking off their hats, 
 turned back again. Without comprehending fully the 
 reason, I did the same. The next moment, however, I heard 
 the tinkling of a bell, and looking around the corner, 
 saw a procession of persons with uncovered heads, each 
 bearing a light, preceded by a boy ringing a bell, who was 
 followed by some men playing on violins, and a guard of 
 soldiers surrounding four persons who supported, with silver 
 rods, a crimson silken canopy, over a priest dressed in his 
 robes, and carrying the host. The children fled to the sides 
 of the street and fell on their knees, as did also all the inhab- 
 itants, upon the approach of the procession, which was pro- 
 
RELIGIOUS TOLERATION. 
 
 179 
 
 ceeding to the house of some one dangerously ill, or dying. 
 We stood in the cross street, with uncovered heads, as it 
 passed by. It was only a few years before that a party of 
 foreigners had been torn from their horses and otherwise 
 maltreated, because they did not dismount and kneel on an 
 occasion like this. The people, however, had now become 
 comparatively enlightened and liberal, and exacted nothing 
 beyond a decent respect for their religious notions and cere- 
 monies. It looked rather strangely to see a file of soldiers, 
 with glancing bayonets, surrounding a priest bent on such a 
 mission ; but either to insure proper respect, or to show it, 
 the guard is never omitted, if men and muskets are, by any 
 possibility, to be found. Sometimes the priest rides in a 
 lumbering carriage, or is carried in a litter or chair, on men's 
 shoulders. 
 
 That night, until eight o'clock there was a firing of "bom- 
 bas" in the plaza, and general demonstrations of satisfaction 
 everywhere, to say nothing of great preparations for the 
 morrow, the day announced for the arrival of General Munoz 
 and his veteranos. Preceding that event, and the recital of 
 what followed, it will not be uninteresting to turn for a 
 moment to the early history of Granada, which was a city 
 grown, long before the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth, and be- 
 fore Hudson entered the bay of New York. 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 DISCOVERY OF NICARAGUA IN 1522 J GIL GONZALES DE AVILA, AND HIS MARCH 
 INTO THE COUNTRY J LANDS AT NICOYA ; REACHES NICARAGUA AND HAS AN 
 INTERVIEW WITH ITS CAZIQUE J IS CLOSELY QUESTIONED J MARCHES TO DIRI- 
 ANGA, WHERE HE IS AT FIRST RECEIVED, BUT AFTERWARDS ATTACKED AND 
 FORCED TO RETREAT; PECULIARITIES OF THE ABORIGINES; THEIR WEALTH; 
 ARRIVAL OF FRANCISCO HERNANDEZ DE CORDOVA J HE SUBDUES THE COUNTRY, 
 AND FOUNDS THE CITIES OF GRANADA AND LEON J RETURN OF GONZALES J 
 QUARRELS BETWEEN THE CONQUERORS J PEDRO ARIAS DE AVILA THE FIRST 
 GOVERNOR OF NICARAGUA ; niS DEATH ; IS SUCCEEDED BY RODERIGO DE CON- 
 TRERAS; HIS SON, HERNANDEZ DE CONTRERAS, REBELS AGAINST SPAIN J MEDI- 
 TATES TnE ENTIRE INDEPENDENCE OF ALL SPANISH AMERICA ON THE PACIFIC J 
 SUCCEEDS IN CARRYING NICARAGUA; SAILS FOR PANAMA; CAPTURES IT; 
 MARCHES ON NOMBRE DE DIOS, BUT DIES ON THE WAY J FAILURE OF HIS DARING 
 AND GIGANTIC PROJECT J SUBSEQEUNT INCORPORATION OF NICARAGUA IN THE 
 
 VICE-ROYALTY OF GUATEMALA. TnE CITY OF GRANADA IN 16G5, BY THOMAS 
 
 GAGE, AN ENGLISH MONK J NICARAGUA CALLED " MAHOMET S PARADISE ;" THE 
 IMPORTANCE OF GRANADA AT TnAT TERIOD J SUBSEQUENT ATTACK BY THE 
 
 pirates in 1668; is burnt; their account of it; the site of granada; 
 
 ELIGIBILITY OF ITS POSITION; POPULATION J COMMERCE; FOREIGN MERCHANTS; 
 PROSPECTIVE IMPORTANCE. — LAKE NICARAGUA ) ITS DISCOVERY AND EXPLORA- 
 TION J INTERESTING ACCOUNT OF IT BY THE CHRONICLER OVIEDO, WRITTEN IN 
 1541 J ITS OUTLET DISCOVERED BY CAPTAIN DIEGO MACHUCA J THE WILD 
 BEASTS ON ITS SHORES J THE LAGUNA OF SONGOZANA J SHARKS IN THE LAKE. 
 THEIR RAPACITY J SUPPOSED TIDES IN TnE LAKE J EXPLANATION OF TnE PHE- 
 NOMENON. 
 
 The first Spaniard who penetrated into Nicaragua, was 
 Gil Gonzales de Avila, in the year 1522. He sailed from 
 Panama, and landed somewhere upon the shore of the Gulf 
 of Nicoya, probably in the southern department of Nicaragua, 
 now bearing the name of Nicoya, or Guanacaste. "With four 
 horses and a hundred followers, he advanced to the north- 
 
182 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 ward over land, meeting in his progress with several petty 
 chiefs, and finally came to the territories of a powerful 
 cazique called Nicoya, who, says Peter Martyr, " courteously 
 entertained him, and gave him fourteen thousand pieces of 
 eight in gold thirteen carats fine, and six idols of the same 
 metal, each a span long," in return for which, adds llerrara, 
 Gonzales " gave him some Spanish toys, and baptized him 
 and all his subjects, being six thousand in number." 
 
 Here Gonzales heard of a powerful chief named Nicaragua, 
 and proceeding fifty leagues to the northward, arrived in his 
 territories, which were between the lake of Nicaragua and 
 the sea, comprising the district of which the city of Nicara- 
 gua or Kivas is now the capital, and which occupies the site 
 of the aboriginal town. To this chief, Peter Martyr tells us, 
 De Avila sent the same message which " our men were wont 
 to deliver to the rest of the Indian kings, before they would 
 press them, that is to say, that they should become Chris- 
 tians, and admit their subjection to the King of Spain, if 
 they did not which, then Avar and violence would be used 
 against them." But Nicaragua, it appears, had heard of the 
 li sharpness of the Spanish swords," and received Gonzales 
 courteously and with great state, presenting him with 
 " twenty-five thousand pieces of eight in gold, many gar- 
 ments, and plumes of feathers." Gonzales prevailed upon 
 him to be baptized, as he accordingly was, with nine thou- 
 sand of his subjects. Their sole objection to the rite was the 
 prohibition of making war, and " of dancing when they were 
 drunk," alleging that " they did nobody harm thereby, and 
 that they could not quit their colors, weapons, and plumes 
 of feathers, and let the women go to war, whilst they applied 
 themselves to spin, weave, and dig, which belonged to the 
 females and slaves." Nicaragua asked many shrewd ques- 
 tions of the Spaniards, one of which was, " why so few men 
 coveted so much gold ?" " Gonzales being a discreet man," 
 
CONVERTING A COUNTRY. 
 
 183 
 
 observes Herrara, "gave such answers as satisfied him," 
 although they have not been preserved. 1 
 
 After much persuasion Nicaragua consented that " the 
 idols which he worshipped should be cast down, and a cross 
 set up in the temple, which was hung with fine cotton cloths; 
 and thus the country was converted !" 
 
 From the territories of this chief, Gonzales, being every- 
 where kindly received, penetrated the country in various 
 directions, and saw many towns, which, says Herrara, 
 "though not large, were good and populous; 2 and multi- 
 tudes flocked along the ways to see the Spanish beards, and 
 habits, and their horses, which were so strange to them." 
 While thus engaged, he encountered a warlike cazique, called 
 Diriangan, a name that is perpetuated in that of the existing 
 towns of Diriambi, Biriumo, and Mndiri, situated about fifty 
 miles to the north-westward of Nicaragua. This chief was 
 attended by five hundred men, with seventeen women, who 
 wore many gold plates. They wore drawn up in order, but 
 
 1 Old Peter Martyr gives quite a minute account of the interview be- 
 tween Gonzales and Nicaragua, calculated to give a very high opinion of 
 the shrewdness of the latter. He inquired about a flood, and how the 
 Spaniards got their information on religious matters from heaven, who 
 brought it, and whether he came down on a rainbow or otherwise ; about 
 "the sun. and moon, and stars, and of their motion, quality, distance, 
 and effects !" All these things were noted down on the spot, by Cerezeda, 
 the king's treasurer, who also affirms that Nicaragua was curious about 
 the cause of day and night, and the blowing of the winds, " which Gonza- 
 les answered to the best of his ability, commending the rest to God." 
 Gonzales had a long argument with him to prove that his idols were rep- 
 resentatives of devils, and warned him in a style not yet wholly obsolete, 
 to avoid them, " lest he should be violently carried away by them from 
 eternal delights to perpetual torments and miserable woes, and be made 
 the companion of the damned." To all of these things the Indians did 
 not offer particular objection, but when they came to talk about temporal 
 affairs, " they made a wry mouth." 
 
 * Peter Martyr says that he found ,: six villages, every one of which had 
 two thousand houses a-piece." — " Be Novo Orbe" Decade vi. p. 237. 
 
184 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE, 
 
 without arms, " with ten colors, and trumpets after their 
 fashion." When Gonzales came near, the colors were spread, 
 and the cazique touched his hand, as did also each of his fol- 
 lowers ; every man presenting him, at the same time, with 
 one or two turkeys, and each woman with " twenty golden 
 plates, fourteen carats fine, each weighing eighteen pieces of 
 eight, and upwards." 
 
 Gonzales endeavored to persuade Diriangan to become a 
 Christian; but the chief demanded three days to consult upon 
 the subject " with his women and priests." The Spaniards 
 soon suspected that this was a ruse, and that it was his design 
 to gather forces to attack and destroy them. In this they 
 were not mistaken, for on the 17th of April, 1522, a body of 
 several thousand Indians, " armed after their manner with 
 cotton armor, head pieces, targets, wooden swords, bows, 
 arrows, and darts, fell upon the Spaniards," and had it not 
 been for the timely notice of a confederate Indian, would in- 
 evitably have destroyed them. The strangers returned to 
 the market place, and received the onset of the Indians there. 
 Several of the Spaniards were knocked down; for it seems 
 that here, as in Mexico, it was rather the desire of the na- 
 tives to capture than kill their enemies, in order to offer the 
 prisoners as sacrifices to their gods. The Spanish horse, in 
 this, as ina thousand other instances, saved them from defeat, 
 driving back the Indians in great terror. 1 Gonzales, consid- 
 ering the smallness of his force, resolved, upon this event, to 
 retire from the country. In passing the town of their former 
 entertainer, Nicaragua, they were however attacked, but 
 nevertheless succeeded in making good their retreat. " The 
 
 ' Peter Martyr tells us that the Indians were not less afraid of men with 
 beards than of the horses, and that therefore, to produce the greatest pos- 
 sible effect. Gonzales made artificial beards "from the powlinges of their 
 heads, for twenty-five beardless youths which he had with him, to the end 
 that the number of bearded men might appear the more, and be the more 
 terrible to the barbarians." — " De Novo Orbe" Decade vi. p. 'Jin. 
 
REVOLT OF HERNANDEZ DE CONTRERAS 
 
 185 
 
 Spaniards," adds Herrara, " gave a mighty account of the 
 country upon their return to Panama; for which reason 
 Pedro de Arias, resolved to found a colony there." lie 
 accordingly soon after despatched Francisco Hernandez de 
 Cordova, who, in 1522, founded the city of Granada upon 
 the Lake of Nicaragua, and subsequently, in the same year, 
 the city of Leon, upon the Lake of Leon, or Managua. Cor- 
 dova erected a fort at Granada for its protection, hut it is 
 hardly to be supposed that the ruined works on the shore of 
 the lake are the remains of this structure. 
 
 Gonzales, who had gone to Spain soon after his discovery, 
 to procure the means of conquering and settling the country, 
 finding himself anticipated by Cordova, raised a force and 
 entering Honduras by the valley of Olancho, from the Bay 
 of Honduras, marched upon the towns established by the 
 latter. The consequences were many battles, and much dis- 
 turbance and turmoil, exceeding anything which had pre- 
 viously resulted from the jealousies and rivalries of the 
 conquerors, in America. Very little regard was paid to the 
 mother country or its directions; in fact, after the death of 
 Pedro Arias de Avila, who was the first governor of the 
 country, Eodrigo de Contreras, his son-in-law, who succeeded 
 him, openly disregarded the order of the crown, which pro- 
 hibited its officers from holding the Indians as property. 
 For this charges were preferred against him, and he went to 
 Spain 1<> vindicate himself in the " Audiencia Real." In his 
 absence, his son, Hernandez de Contreras, resenting his 
 father's treatment, openly revolted. Their first victim was 
 Antonio de Valdivieso, the bishop of Nicaragua, whose por- 
 trait is still preserved in the great cathedral at Leon. The 
 insurgents were successful in gaining complete possession of 
 the eountry; but not satisfied with this, they seized some 
 vessels in the port of Bealejo, and embarked for Panama, 
 with a view of extending their conquests in that direction, 
 and ultimately of seizing upon Peru. Hernandez, in short, 
 24 
 
186 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 conceived the idea of becoming king of the continent, and 
 ruler of the South Sea. He attacked and captured Panama ; 
 but on his way to reduce Nombre de Dios, encountered mis- 
 fortunes which ended in his death. Thus terminated this 
 bold and magnificent design; the magnitude of which ap- 
 palled the King of Spain, and which, at one moment, seemed 
 on the eve of a successful consummation. The anniversary 
 of Hernandez's death, on the 23d of April, 15-19, was cele- 
 brated with great solemnity in the Cathedral of Panama, 
 until the period of the independence from Spain. 
 
 It is not necessary, nor would it be particularly interest- 
 ing, to trace the early history of Nicaragua further. In due 
 time, it was organized as a province in the Kingdom or Cap- 
 tain Generalcy of Guatemala, and governed by a Governor 
 [ntendant, appointed by the crown, but subject to the Cap- 
 tain General of Guatemala, and so remained until its eman- 
 cipation in 1823. At that time Granada was among the first 
 cities to declare in favor of republicanism, and has always, in 
 the partisan struggles which have followed, been on the lib- 
 eral side, as opposed to the servile, oligarchical, or monarchi- 
 cal faction, whose machinations have kept the country in a 
 state of constant alarm, and which is still the enemy of its 
 peace. 
 
 Thomas Gage, an English monk, who went through Nica- 
 ragua in 1665, has left us a brief but interesting account of 
 the country, which lie calls ''.Mahomet's Paradise, from its 
 exceeding goodness." At that time there were in the city 
 of Granada two cloisters of Mercenarian and Franciscan friars, 
 and " one parish church, which was a cathedral, for the 
 Bishop of Leon did almost constantly reside there." The 
 houses, he says, were fairer than those of Leon, and the mer- 
 chants enjoyed great wealth. They carried on trade directly 
 with Guatemala, Honduras, and San Salvador, as also with 
 Panama, Carthagena, and Peru. At the time of sending 
 away their vessels, ("frigats," as Gage calls them,) the city 
 
HISTORY OF GRANADA. 
 
 187 
 
 was one of the richest in all North America. The king's 
 treasure from Guatemala and Mexico was often sent this way, 
 when the Hollanders and other enemies infested the Gulf of 
 Mexico. Gage tells us that while he was there, "in one day 
 there entered six liequas, (which were each at least three 
 hundred mules,) from San Salvador and Honduras alone, 
 laden with indigo, cochineal, and hides ; and two days after 
 from Guatemala came in three more, one laden with silver, 
 (which was the king's tribute,) another with sugar, and the 
 other with indigo." 1 Respecting the "frigats" of which 
 Gage speaks, we shall have more to say elsewhere. They 
 generally^ sailed for Carthagena, but sometimes directly for 
 Spain. They were occasionally intercepted by English and 
 Dutch vessels cruising around the mouth of " El Desagua- 
 dero," or the San Juan, and the fear of this, observes the 
 quaint old traveller, " did make the merchants tremble and 
 sweat with a cold sweat." 
 
 Granada, in common with all the Spanish cities on the 
 Pacilic declivity of the continent, suffered much, at a later 
 period, from the pirates. In 1686 it was attacked by a party 
 from the combined French and English bucaneers then in 
 the South Sea, and sacked. They landed on the seventh of 
 April in that year, on the coast of the Pacific, in number 
 three hundred and forty-five men. They travelled only at 
 night, with a view of surprising the town. De Lussan, who 
 was of the party, records the adventure. He says that on 
 the ninth of the month, two days after their departure from 
 the coast, the fatigue which they had undergone, and the 
 sharp hunger which pressed them, obliged them to halt at a 
 great sugar plantation, about four leagues from Granada, and 
 on the way thither. It belonged to a Knight of St. James, 
 who, however, escaped being taken prisoner, for the excel- 
 lent reason assigned by the chronicler, viz. : " our leggs at 
 
 1 " A New Survey of the West Indies," p. 421. 
 
188 
 
 K IC AR AGU A — NARR AT I VE. 
 
 that time being much more disposed to rest than run after 
 him." Upon coming near to the town, they discovered that 
 their approach was known, and saw what De Lussan calls 
 "two ships upon Lake Nicaragua," laden with the effects of 
 the retreating inhabitants. They now proceeded with more 
 caution, and upon capturing a prisoner found out that a por- 
 tion of the inhabitants remained, and had entrenched them- 
 selves in the Place of Arms, or Plaza, which was guarded \v Ith 
 fourteen pieces of cannon, and " six petereroes." This informa- 
 tion, continues the worthy De Lussan, " would doubtless have 
 terrified any but freebooters, but did not retard our design 
 one minute, nor hinder us. About two in the afternoon of 
 the same day, we came up to the town, where at one entrance 
 into the suburbs we met a strong party lying in ambush for 
 us, whom, after an hour's engagement, we fell with that fury 
 on, that we made our way over all their bellies, with the loss 
 of but one man on our side, and from thence entered the 
 town, where we made a halt to wait for the answer of seve- 
 ral of our company, whom we had detached to go round and 
 take observation of a fort which we saw in a dired Line with 
 the street by which we entered." The reconnoitering over, 
 and tlu 1 plan of attack laid out with all military precision, 
 the freebooters " exhorted each other to fall on bravely, and 
 advanced at a good round pace to the attack." When they 
 had got within cannon shot of the works, they were fired on, 
 but at every discharge the pirates "saluted them down to 
 the ground, by which means the shot went harmlessly over." 
 This excellent practical joke the Spaniards met by false 
 priming, "to the end that the pirates might raise their bodies 
 after the sham was over," and then receive the real discharge. 
 The pirates then broke into the houses and made their ap- 
 proaches through the walls, from one to the other; and 
 finally came sufficiently near to use their fire-arms and hand 
 grenades, and being superior in numbers, and withal well 
 used to hard fighting, they soon succeeded in making them- 
 
HISTORY OF GRANADA. 
 
 189 
 
 selves masters of the work. Upon the side of the pirates 
 four men were killed and eight wounded, which, De Lussan 
 complacently observes, " was in truth very cheap." They 
 then went to the great church and piously sang the Te Deum, 
 fixed their sentinels, and the Court of Guard, (which was 
 probably some kind of commission to take charge of the 
 plunder.) in the strong-built houses," and afterwards went 
 out to gather in the booty. But their victory was a barren 
 one, for they only found " a few goods and some provisions." 
 
 Much disappointed, they sent out parties to collect the 
 treasures which they conceived might be hidden on the 
 estates outside of the city, but with no better success, for 
 they came back, as De Lussan classically observes, " re infec- 
 ta." They then caught a woman, whom they sent to the 
 Spaniards with a demand for a ransom for the town, and a 
 threat of burning the same in case their requisition was not 
 complied with. The inhabitants were not so easily fright- 
 ened, and did not trouble themselves to give an answer, 
 whereupon the pirates " set fire to the houses out of mere 
 spite and revenge." 
 
 While here, the pirates, wearied of their laborious and 
 perilous life, indulged hopes of returning, through Lake Nica- 
 ragua, to Europe. But, in their own words, " the term of 
 dangers and miseries which their destiny had in store for 
 them was not yet come, and they could not take advantage 
 of the favorable opportunity which now offered to get out of 
 these parts of the world, which, though very charming and 
 agreeable to those who were settled there, yet did not appear 
 so to a handful of men, without shipping, the most part of 
 the time without victuals, and wandering amidst a multitude 
 of enemies, against whom they were obliged to be continu- 
 ally on their guard." So they fell back, with infinite trouble 
 and danger, to the coast, being obliged to contest every foot 
 of the ground. They embarked again and sailed for Realejo, 
 which they captured, and subsequently took Pueblo Viejo 
 
190 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 and Chinendaga, and even made a deseent on Leon. These 
 same men, after further exploits on the coast, made a forced 
 march across the continent, from the Gulf of Fonseca to Cape 
 Gracios a Dios, through the northern department of Nicara- 
 gua (Segovia) and Honduras. 
 
 De Lussan describes the city of Granada, at the time of his 
 visit, as a large and spacious town, with "stately churches 
 and houses, well enough built, besides several religious estab- 
 lishments, both for men and women." Around the city 
 " were a great many fine sugar plantations, which were more 
 like unto so many villages than single plantations." 
 
 The site of Granada is admirably chosen. It occupies a 
 gentle slope, descending towards the lake, which here forms a 
 beautiful and partially protected bay, called the bay of 
 Granada. Upon one side rises the great volcano of Momo- 
 bacho, while behind are the undulating hills and ridges of 
 land which intervene between the lake and the Pacific. The 
 position is, in fact, the only eligible one on the western shore 
 of the lake, near its head, where any considerable town could be 
 built, due regard being had to space, salubrity, and convenience 
 for trade. And while Leon, from the circumstances that it was 
 almost immediately established as the scat of government, 
 and was built in a more fertile and populous district, has 
 preserved a larger population and a greater number of im- 
 posing public edifices, Granada has always held a higher 
 place in respect of trade. Through it, from the earliest 
 period, has been conducted the principal part of the com- 
 merce of the country, besides a portion of that of the adjacent 
 provinces and States. It has not suffered so much from vio- 
 lence as the political capital ; and although subject to the 
 same influences which have depressed the country at large, it 
 has felt them less. Wealth has, in consequence, concentrated 
 here to a considerable extent, and its commercial relations 
 have led to the introduction of many foreign customs, with- 
 out, however, materially changing its essential Central 
 
COMMERCE OF GRANADA. 
 
 191 
 
 American type. More foreigners have, from time to time, 
 established themselves here, than in all the rest of the State. 
 Some of them, after accumulating large fortunes, have re- 
 turned to their native lands, while others, from habit or incli- 
 nation, have remained, and almost entirely assimilated them- 
 selves to the native population. 
 
 The population of Granada is now estimated at from 
 twelve to fifteen, thousand inhabitants. This estimate may, 
 however, be considerably wide of the truth. When Juarros 
 wrote, the population was calculated to be 863 Europeans, 
 Spaniards and Creoles; 910 Mestizos; 4,765 Ladinos; and 
 1,695 Indians. Total, 8,233, 
 
 No means exist whereby its trade can be accurately esti- 
 mated. With the exception of some direct trade with the 
 city of Eivas or Nicaragua, situated on the lake forty-five 
 miles below Granada, the entire commerce with San Juan 
 is conducted through this city. Here are owned nearly all 
 the boats used in the navigation of the lake and river, and 
 here also reside the principal part of the "marineros," or 
 men employed in managing them. There are several whole' 
 sale mercantile houses, trading directly with New York, 
 London, Liverpool, some of the French, Spanish, and Italian 
 ports, and Jamaica. The principal supplies of the merchants 
 have, for a number of years, been obtained from the island 
 last named, where their credit is said to be better than that 
 of the traders from any of the other Spanish States. The 
 transactions are often, if not generally, cash, or what is equiv- 
 alent, remittances in bullion, indigo, or other staples of high 
 value and little bulk. Advances are often made, however, 
 on prospective crops, which seldom fail. Iron, copper, and 
 China wares, silks, calicoes, cottons, etc., are the principal im- 
 ports ; while, as I have already said, the exports consist of 
 indigo, bullion, hides, Brazil wood, and coffee. As it is 
 almost impossible to limit the production of tropical staples 
 in Nicaragua, such as indigo, coffee, cacao, cotton, rice, sugar, 
 
192 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 and tobacco, not to mention hides, dye-woods, and medicines, 
 the wealth and importance of Granada must go on increasing, 
 as the country becomes developed by the introduction of 
 enterprise and capital, both of which are rapidly taking that 
 direction. This remark will hold true, even though the pro- 
 spective canal, or the projected route of transit between the 
 oceans, should not pass through or near it ; for it is really the 
 only eligible position for a large town on the south or west- 
 ern shore of the lake, and is, and must ever remain, nearer 
 than all others to the great centres of population and produc- 
 tion. Several American hotels and mercantile houses are 
 already established there, and it is becoming better known 
 than any other city in all Central America. A small steam- 
 er now plies between it and San Carlos, at the outlet of the 
 lake. A short wharf or two alone are wanted to facilitate 
 landing, and secure vessels from the waves of the lake, which 
 sometimes roll in here with almost the force and majesty of 
 those of the ocean. 
 
 The lake of Nicaragua, called by the aborigines Cocibolca, 
 which gives to Granada its importance, and which is the 
 most remarkable natural feature of the country, has already 
 been described, in general terms, in the second chapter of 
 this book. It, of course, attracted the first attention of the 
 Spanish adventurers, who made many wonderful reports 
 of it, which, reaching Spain, excited much speculation as to 
 the probability of a water communication between the two 
 oceans. Indeed it was confidently announced by some that 
 straits opened from it to the South and to the North Seas ; 
 but it was not until 1529 that it was fully explored. In that 
 year, we are informed by the historian Oviedo y Valdez, 
 (who was in the country at the time of which he writes, but 
 whose chronicle remained in manuscript until 1810, and has 
 not yet, in any part, been published in English,) in that year, 
 Pedro de Avila sent a man named Martin Estete, at the head 
 of a party of soldiers and Indians, to make an exploration 
 
 
EXPLORATION OF LAKE NICAKAGCA. 
 
 193 
 
 both of Lake Nicaragua and Managua. They went into a 
 province called Yoto, which must have been to the north- 
 ward of Lake Managua, but got involved with the natives, 
 wen: attacked and driven back. They however saw, from 
 the top of a mountain, a body of water, which they sup- 
 posed to be a third lake. It was probably the great Gulf 
 of Fonseca, which is nearly surrounded by land, and would. 
 at a distance, be taken for an inland lake. Nothing of value 
 resulted from this expedition. Subsecjuently, however, a 
 private expedition was undertaken by Captain Diego Machu- 
 ca, a friend of the historian Oviedo, which was more success- 
 ful, and terminated in the discovery of the outlet of the lakes, 
 down which the adventurers passed to the ocean. I shall let 
 the old writer tell his own story. He says : 
 
 " Last year, (1540,) I met in the city of Santo Domingo the pilot Pedro 
 Cora, who was one of those who had accompanied Estete in his trip to 
 Voto, and had seen both the country and the dubious lake. He told me 
 that he had come from New Castile, under the government of Franciscc 
 Pizarro, and that he bad met at the port of Nombre de Dios some old 
 friends whom be bad known in the province of Nicaragua, and who had 
 built a felouque and brigantine on the shores of the great lake of Nicara- 
 gua, called Gocibolca in the language of the country. With them was a 
 man named Diego Machuca, with whom I have been well acquainted, and 
 who bad been commandant of the country of the Cazique Tenderi, and of 
 thr country around the lake of Masaya. After having spent some thou- 
 sands of dollars in building and arming these vessels at their Own expense, 
 they embarked with the intention of exploring these lakes thoroughly, or 
 of perishing in the attempt. Captain Diego Machuca advanced by land, 
 at the bead of two hundred men, taking the same course with the boats, 
 which were accompanied by some canoes. They, in course of time. 
 arrived al the spot where the waters of these lakes appeared to flow into 
 the North Sea. As they knew not where they were, they followed tin 
 sea coast in an eastern direction, and finally arrived at the port of Nombre 
 de Dios, where this pilot met them. He conversed, ate, and drank often 
 with those who had thus passed out of these lakes into the sea. He also 
 told me that Doctor Robles held these men as prisoners, because he him- 
 self wished to found a colony at the outlet of these lakes, and thus profit 
 
 25 
 
191 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 by the labor of another, as is the custom with these men of letters, for the 
 use that they make of their wisdom is rather to rob than to render jus- 
 tice ; and this was true of this man more than of others, for he was not 
 only a licenciado, or bachelor, but a doctor, the highest grade of science, 
 and has therefore shown himself the greatest tyrant! For this reason, 
 his employment has been taken away from him. Besides, if he had under- 
 taken to found a colony at this outlet, he would have met there Captain 
 Machuca, who would not have consented to have thus lost his time, 
 money, and trouble; the old soldier would have proved himself too sharp 
 for the wise lawyer-. I asked the pilot, at what point on the coast these 
 lakes emptied into the ocean, but he replied that he was not at liberty to 
 tell. I believe that he wished to conceal it from me himself, and that it 
 was on this business he was going to Spain, on behalf of those who made 
 the discovery. I believe this place to be about one hundred leagues west 
 of Nombre de Dios, 1 and if I obtain any new information on this matter, 
 I will put it in the concluding chapters of this book. 
 
 " I do not regard what are called the two lakes of Nicaragua as sepa- 
 rate lakes, because they connect the one with the other. They are sepa- 
 rated from the South Sea by a very narrow strip of land ; and I should 
 say that the distance from their upper extremity to the outlet in the North 
 Sea, is two hundred and fifty leagues. 5 The measures given by Pedro 
 Arias and others are not true, since they did not know their extent. 
 They have made a separate lake on the side where is Leon de Nagrando, 
 on the lands of a cazique named Tipitapa, which communicates with a 
 narrow channel with that of Granada (Nicaragua.) In summer there is 
 but little water in this channel, so little that a man may traverse it; the 
 water coming up no higher than his breast. This lake is filled with ex- 
 cellent fish. But what proves that they are both one lake is the fact that 
 they equally abound in sea-fish and turtles. Another proof is that in 1529, 
 there was found in the province of Nicaragua, upon the bank of this lake, 
 a fish never seen except in the sea, and called the sword-fish, (pexe bigue- 
 la,) on account of a bone armed on both sides with sharp points, placed in 
 the extremity of its jaw. I have seen some of these fish of so great size, 
 that two oxen attached to a cart could hardly draw them. A description 
 of these may be found in Cap. iii. lib. 13, Part first of this work. The 
 one found on the shores of this lake was small, being only about twelve 
 
 1 This estimate was very accurate ; the actual distance is but about two 
 hundred and fifty miles in a right line. 
 
 8 Oviedo overshoots the mark here ; read miles for leagues, and the dis- 
 tance is very near the truth. 
 
DESCRIPTION OF LAKE NICARAGUA. 
 
 195 
 
 feet in length, and must have entered at the outlet of the lake. Its sword 
 only of a hand's breadth, and of the width of two fingers. 
 
 " The water of the lakes is very good and healthful, and a large num- 
 ber of small rivers and brooks empty into them. In some places the great 
 lake is fifteen or twenty fathoms deep : in other places it is scarcely a foot 
 in depth; so that it is not navigable in all parts, but only in the middle, 
 and with barks constructed expressly for the purpose. 
 
 " It has a large number of islands, of some extent, covered with flocks and 
 precious woods. The largest is eight leagues in circumference, and is inhab- 
 ited by Indians. It is very fertile, filled with deer and rabbits, and named 
 Ometepec, which signifies two mountains. It formerly contained a popu- 
 lation much more numerous than now, divided into eight or ten vil- 
 lages. The mountain on this island towards the east is lowest; the other 
 is so high that its summit is seldom seen. When I passed by this island 
 the atmosphere was very clear, and I could easily see the summit. I 
 passed the night at a farm belonging to a gentleman named Diego Mora, 
 situated on the main land near the island. The keeper told me that 
 during the two years he had been in that place he had seen the sum- 
 mit but once, because it was always covered with clouds. 
 
 " On the south side of the great lake is a smaller one, called Songozana, 
 which is separated from it by a flat shore, but one hundred and fifty paces 
 wide. It is formed by rains, which fill it up in the rainy season ; and as 
 it is higher than the great lake, its waters bear away the sand, and empty 
 into it. This laguna then becomes filled with alligators and all kinds of 
 fish. But during the summer it nearly dries up. The Indians then kill 
 with clubs great numbers of alligators and fish. It is about a league and 
 a half in length, and three-fourths of a league in breadth. 1 visited it 
 in the latter part of July, 1529, and there was but little water in it. The 
 farmer whom I have mentioned had many hogs, which fed on the fish 
 which they caught here, and were so large that they looked frightful, the 
 more so, because they had the smell and taste offish. For this reason 
 they are now kept away from the laguna, and only allowed to approach 
 to drink. 
 
 " In this vicinity there are numerous black tigers, which made great 
 havoc in this farmer's flocks. He had some excellent dogs, which had 
 killed many of these tigers; he showed me one in particular, that had 
 killed two or three. The skin of one of these animals, which he showed 
 me, was black, like velvet. This kind is more ferocious than the spotted 
 variety. He said he would not take a thousand dollars for his dogs, for 
 his pork was worth a thousand, and without the dogs the tigers would 
 have destroyed them all." 
 
196 
 
 NIC AHA G U A — NA K 11 ATI V E. 
 
 A laguna, something like that of Sonqozana. described by 
 Oviedo, occurs about six miles above the city of Granada, 
 near the place called " Los Cocos," but I am not aware that 
 it is ever dry. The statement thai sword-fish have reached 
 the Lake seems somewhat apochryphal, although it should be 
 observed that Oviedo is usually very accurate in matters oi 
 this kind. It is, however, a fact that sharks abound in the 
 lake. They ore, called "tigrones" from their rapacity, 
 [nstances are known of their having attacked and killed 
 bathers within a stone's throw of the beach at Granada ; and 
 I have myself repeatedly seen them from the walls of the old 
 castle, dashing about, with their tins projecting above the 
 water. Great varieties of fish are found in Lakes Nicara- 
 gua and Managua, which are extensively caught and used 
 by the people residing on their shores. The lake of Nica- 
 ragua was supposed, atone time, to have tides like the ocean. 
 and the fact that it has an ebb and flow led to the early be- 
 belief that it was only an estuary, or bay of the sea. The 
 phenomenon is, however, of easy explanation. As I have 
 said, the prevailing wind in Nicaragua is the north-east trade, 
 which here sweeps entirely across the continent. This is 
 strongest in the noon and evening, when it drives the water 
 upon the western shores of the lakes; it subsides towards 
 morning, when the equilibrium is restored, and an ebb fol- 
 lows. The regularity with which the winds blow, give a 
 corresponding regularity to the ebb and flow of the lake. 
 Sometimes, when the wind blows continuously, and with 
 greater force than usual, from the direction I have named. 
 the low lands on the opposite shore of the lakes are flooded 
 to a great extent. Such occurrences, however, are rare. 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 narrative continued arrival of the general in cnief — the army — 
 
 fireworks by daylight — prisoners — interview with gen. mttnoz ar- 
 rival of the cal1fornian escort " 1'iedras antiguas" the stone of 
 
 the big mouth " el chiflador - ' other antiquities preparations 
 
 for departure — carts and " carreteros" vexatious delays — depar- 
 ture — now i got a good horse for a bad mule, ox the road — distant 
 
 view of tne lakes the freedom of the forest arrival at masaya 
 
 grand entree deserted plaza — a military execution a " posada*' 
 
 " hijos de Washington" — disappointed municipality — we escape an ova- 
 tion ROAD TO NINDIRI APOSTROPHE TO NINDIRI ! OVERTAKE THE CARTS 
 
 " ALGO FRESCO" APPROACH THE VOLCANO OF MASAYA THE " MAL PAIS"— 
 
 LAVA FIELDS — VIEW OF THE VOLCANO — ITS ERUPTIONS — " ELINFIERNO DE MA- 
 SAYA," THE HELL OF MASAYA OVIEDo's ACCOUNT OF HIS VISIT TO IT IN 
 
 1529 ACTIVITY AT THAT PERIOD THE ASCENT THE CRATER SUPERSTI- 
 TIONS OF THE INDIANS THE OLD WOMAN OF THE MOUNTAIN THE DESCENT 
 
 OF THE FRAY BLAS CASTILLO INTO THE CRATER. 
 
 Sunday, the day after tlic events recited in a previous 
 chapter, was ushered in by a general ringing of the church 
 bells, and a miscellaneous firing of bombas, on the part ofthe 
 boys. High mass was said in " La Parroquia," for the safe 
 arrival of the General and his army. I now discovered the 
 efficacy of the "banda." Red and yellow cloth was sus- 
 pended in front of all the balconies ; gay curtains shaded 
 every window; festoons of flowers hung above every door, 
 and little flags and boughs of trees were strung in all conve- 
 nient places. The decorations in the plaza were particularly 
 profuse and fanciful. Altogether I he streets looked much 
 like those of some of our own cities, tricked out on the occa- 
 sion of a political festival, or some similar occasion, when 
 
198 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 impunity is conceded to absurdity of every kind. Men, 
 women, and children were all dressed in their best attire, 
 and seemed to be in high spirits. There was a general reac- 
 tion from the despondency which had so long afflicted the 
 popular mind ; and, as I strolled through the Jalteva, I ob- 
 served that already many of the fugitive inhabitants had 
 returned, and that the municipality began to have some sem- 
 blance of life again. At about eleven o'clock messengers 
 arrived, announcing that the General was at a " hatto," a 
 league from the city, waiting for the coming up of the main 
 body of his troojDS. Directly I heard the roll of drums in the 
 plaza, and shortly after saw a large cavalcade, embracing the 
 municipal and departmental officers, and a body of several 
 hundred of the leading inhabitants, defile past to meet and 
 welcome the General. When they had departed, there was 
 a lull in the city ; the quiet of expectation had succeeded the 
 bustle of preparation ; and, there being nothing more to see, 
 I went back to my quarters, and lying down in my ham- 
 mock, suspended beneath the corridor of the house, where 
 the fresh breeze circulated freely, rustling the orange leaves, 
 took up Layard's Nineveh, which had been published a day 
 or two before I left the States. I read of winged bulls, 
 priestly processions, and Arab bands, and in a state of half- 
 consciousness was trying hard to make out something about 
 the Yezidis, who would, nevertheless mix themselves up 
 with the marincros of the lake, and the Naidcs of San Migu- 
 eleto, when the discharge of a cannon, and the simultaneous 
 clang of every bell in the city, startled me to my feet, and 
 announced the approach of the long-expected, and long- 
 wished-for General. 
 
 I took my place in the outer corridor, to see whatever there 
 might be to see. The streets were lined with people, mostly 
 women, their heads protected by gaudy rebosos ; while every 
 door, window, and balcony was occupied by the better por- 
 tion of the population, dressed to the limit of their finery. 
 
ARRIVAL OF THE GENERAL IN CHIEF. 
 
 199 
 
 The discharge of cannon continued at regular intervals, be- 
 coming more and more distinct as the guns approached, 
 while the bells kept up an incessant and almost deafening 
 clangor. The General, I thought, was slow in his move- 
 ments, and a long time in coming; for it was full an houi 
 before the head of the procession appeared, turning sharp 
 around a corner near my quarters. A mass of horsemen, 
 filling the entire street, passed along in utter confusion ; but 
 these, I soon saw, were the citizens who had gone out to act 
 as an escort. Following these was a small detachment of 
 lancers, who moved in entire order, and made a good appear- 
 ance. After them came a party of officers, brilliantly dressed, 
 preceded by the flag of the republic, around which the peo- 
 ple pressed in a dense body, shouting " Viva el esclarecido 
 General ! " " Viva el Gobierno Supremo ! " " Viva la Ke- 
 publica ! " " Muerte a los enemigos del orden ! " Death to 
 the enemies of order ! I had no difficulty in distinguishing 
 amongst the fine body of men composing his staff, the erect 
 and commanding figure of Gen. Mufioz himself. lie was 
 splendidly mounted, and Avore a neat undress uniform of 
 blue, turned up with red, and a Panama hat, covered with 
 black oiled silk. He bowed in an easy and graceful man- 
 ner, 111 acknowledgment of the "vivas" directed to him, and 
 of the salutations of the sciloras and scnoritas in the balco- 
 nies. I observed his face closely when he approached ; it 
 was animated but firm, — expressive of his true character, 
 which is that of a humane, chivalrous, high-minded, and 
 brave man. I then thought, and still think him the finest 
 looking officer I ever saw. 
 
 Behind the General and his staff, was another detachment 
 of lancers, followed by a band of music ; then came the 
 soldiers in divisions. First were the " veteranos," or soldiers 
 of the line, in a uniform of white pantaloons and jacket, a 
 little black cap with a red ball perched in front, a species of 
 network knapsack, a blanket thrown, toga-like, over one 
 
200 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 shoulder, and a musket resting on the other. > This is their 
 whole equipment ; they require no tents, baggage, or provi- 
 sion wagons. If it rains, they throw their blankets over their 
 shoulders and the loeks of their muskets, turn their panta- 
 loons up to their thighs, and march on. At night they roll 
 themselves in their blankets, and lie down anywhere. A 
 plantain and a bit of cheese, or tortilla, or a cup of tiste, con- 
 stitute their simple rations, and on such fare they will march 
 forty and fifty miles a day, through a country where an equal 
 European or American force would not average ten. This 
 body of "veteranos," marched with great precision and in 
 good order, and was followed by the new recruits, who were 
 rather a hard looking set, dressed in every variety of cos- 
 tume, and not particular about keeping in line or marking 
 step. Some wore only pantaloons and hat, the latter not 
 always of the most classical model ; some had long legs to 
 their breeches, some short, and some none at all ; but they 
 all seemed to be in good spirits, and ready for almost any 
 thing which might turn up. They bowed frequently, beck- 
 oned, and sometimes spoke to acquaintances amongst the spec- 
 tators, — improprieties of which the "veteranos" were never 
 guilty. In fact, the latter, who were almost entirely Indians, 
 seemed as impassible as men of bronze. Amongst the offi- 
 cers in the General's staff I observed a fall-blooded negro ; but 
 his features were as regular as those of any European. He 
 afterwards distinguished himself by his bravery and fidelity, 
 and was promoted, in consequence. 
 
 Upon the entrance of the procession into the plaza, al- 
 though it was broad daylight, a scries of fireworks and rock- 
 ets were let off, which produced a great noise and smoke, but 
 none of those brilliant results for which they arc got up 
 amongst us, and of which the people here seem to have no 
 idea. The primary object appeared to be to make a great 
 noise, and in this they were perfectly successful. 
 
 That afternoon, a division of troops, which had been sent 
 
BRIGHTER PROSPECTS. 
 
 201 
 
 out the previous day, to break up a party of insurgents, 
 who had concentrated at the Indian pueblo of Diriomo, came 
 in, having effected their object, and bringing a number of 
 prisoners. Among them was one of Somoza's lieutenants, 
 who was pinioned, and marched in at the point of the bay- 
 onet. A litter followed, bearing a wounded soldier, half of 
 whose face had been shot away in the encounter, presenting 
 a shocking spectacle. 
 
 Before night, it became evident that a decided hand had 
 now the control of affairs ; men were despatched to bring 
 down the boats sent for safety to " Los Cocos ;" scouts de- 
 tached to gather information ; a new regiment of enrolled 
 men ordered to report themselves under arms next morning ; 
 and a proclamation issued, guarantying the safety of all those 
 arrayed against the government who should come in and 
 surrender their arms. The patrols were doubled, and that 
 night we were treated to an extra number of "alertas," from 
 watchful sentinels. In the evening a council was held, to 
 which all the leading citizens, whatever their previous differ- 
 ences, were invited, and where the General himself set the 
 example of patriotic forbearance and fraternization, by prof- 
 fering his hand to men from whom he had been estranged 
 for years. The result was auspicious, and the council re- 
 solved upon the most prompt and decided action. 
 
 Next morning, before sunrise, as I rode to take my daily 
 bath in the lake, I saw the General in the Plaza, wrapped in 
 his military cloak, drilling his troops in person. At eleven 
 o'clock he paid me a formal visit, accompanied by his staff. 
 My previous favorable impressions were more than confirmed 
 by the interview. He spoke of the troubles in the country 
 with the regret of a patriot, but the determination of a gene- 
 ral, and sketched their origin, and the popular demoraliza- 
 tion, boldly and impartially. Upon general topics he was 
 familiar, and conversed with force and freedom. He had 
 once been in New Orleans, where he had seen Mr. Clay, 
 26 
 
202 
 
 NICARAGUA—NARRATIVE. 
 
 who appeared to have left a characteristic impression on his 
 mind. I found him perfectly well acquainted with the origin 
 and progress of the Mexican war, and with the relative parts 
 sustained in it by the American officers. Upon the subject 
 of British aggressions, he spoke with great bitterness, and in 
 a manner which showed how deep and ineffaceable were the 
 feelings of hatred which they had engendered. These ag- 
 gressions, he said, made at a time when the country had 
 begun to recover from its distractions, and when its more 
 patriotic and intelligent citizens, before expatriating them- 
 selves in despair, were making a last effort in its behalf, and 
 for the restoration of quiet and good government, were 
 crimes against humanity not less than against the State. 
 Just as the government had succeeded in reforming the army 
 and restoring public confidence, when all its resources were 
 wanted to carry out its new and enlightened policy, it found 
 itself involved in a foreign controversy, shorn, on the shal- 
 lowest pretexts, of half its territories, its revenues cut off, and 
 all its energies crippled by a nation professing to be the most 
 enlightened and philanthropic in the world ! He had often 
 felt dispirited, but had struggled on in the vague hope that 
 the condition of the country might attract the sympathy and 
 secure the good offices of other nations in its behalf, — as he 
 now believed it had done those of the United States. The 
 present disturbances, he added, had been directly charged 
 upon the English, but however that might be, that people 
 was directly responsible for its consequences ; for the insur- 
 gents would never have dared to commit overt acts, whatever 
 their disposition, had they not thought that the controversy 
 with England had weakened the hands of the government, 
 and rendered it almost powerless ; and that in attacking if, 
 they would receive some kind of countenance and support 
 from British agents, if not from the British Government. 
 
 I am thus particular in giving the exact tenor of this con- 
 versation, as it was afterwards grossly misrepresented, and 
 
m 
 
 <l PIEDRA DEL BOCA." 
 
 203 
 
 made the subject of not over-polite, but very characteristic 
 official correspondence, on the part of the British agents. 
 
 In the afternoon of this day, the first division of our Cali- 
 fornian escort, in a uniform of red shirts, and armed like 
 brigands, made their appearance. They reported that the 
 remainder had stopped for the night at the town of Masaya, 
 in order to visit the extraordinary lake at that place, and 
 would come on in the morning. The march of the General 
 had cleared the roads, and as our arrival at the capital was 
 anxiously expected, I determined to leave Granada at the 
 earliest oossible moment, and made my arrangements accord- 
 ingly. 
 
 In the evening I visited a singular relic of antiquity, caned 
 the "piedradelaboca," the stone of the mouth. It is planted 
 
 " i- I E I) li A I)K LA B C A." 
 
 on the corner of one of the streets leading to the Jalteva, and 
 consists of a large and singularly carved stone, which had 
 been brought here by a curious "marinero," from an island in 
 the lake. The accompanying engraving will convey a better 
 idea of it than any description, and will explain why it bears 
 its present name. It now projects about three feet above the 
 
204 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 ground, and is two feet broad by one and a half in thickness. 
 I had made diligent inquiry for "piedras antiguas" ancient, 
 stones, but got very little information concerning any, — 
 no information, in fact, except from an old priest and some 
 boatmen, who represented that many were to be found on 
 the island of Ometepec, and on the large uninhabited island 
 of Zapatero. I had, however, no time to visit them now. 
 but made a note of them for afuture occasion. At the " es- 
 quina," or corner of the old Convent of San Francisco, was 
 another " piedra antigua," called " El Chifiador" the whist- 
 ler. It had been much broken, and the head and upper part 
 of the body were entirely destroyed. The fragments which 
 remained showed that it had been well and elaborately 
 carved. Tradition says that, when it was perfect, its mouth 
 was open, into which the blowing of the wind made a mourn- 
 ful, whistling noise, exciting suspicions that it was the incar- 
 nation of one of the ancient " demonios" of the Indians. The 
 pious padres demolished it in consequence ; but probably 
 less on that account than because they often found offerings 
 before it, which the superstitious Indians had deposited 
 during the night time. Another figure stood, and probably 
 still remains at the south-eastern corner of the great Plaza, 
 carved in black basalt. It represents a human figure, with 
 jaws widely distended, and protruding tongue. Upon the 
 head is crouched the representation of some kind of wild 
 animal, of the cat kind. It is comparatively small, but well 
 carved, and bold and striking in its outlines. This, and " el 
 chiflador" were brought from the island of Zapatero. 
 
 During the day, the remainder of the American division 
 arrived at Granada. Including my own party, we mustered 
 twenty-five strong, each man withal a walking arsenal. Two 
 days were devoted to rest and visiting, and the morning of 
 the third of July fixed for our departure. The evening pre- 
 vious, our baggage was packed in carts, and sent ahead, 
 under the escort of a detachment of lancers. 
 
^HM 
 
 CARTS AND " CARRETEROS." 
 
 205 
 
 In the inhabited parts of Nicaragua, where the country is 
 entirely level, or but slightly undulating, carts are almost 
 universally used for the transportation of goods and the 
 natural products of the country. They are exceedingly rude 
 contrivances, but seemed to meet every requisition. The 
 body consists of a stout frame- work of wood, and the wheels, 
 as I have already said, are solid sections, cut from some large 
 tree of hard wood, usually the mahogany. These are not 
 sawed, but chopped into shape, and with an eye rather to 
 use than to symmetry or beauty. The oxen, which are 
 compact, active, and hardy animals, are not fastened in a 
 yoke, as with us, but to a bar passing across their foreheads, 
 and firmly lashed to their horns. Two pairs are the usual 
 complement of a cart, but sometimes three pairs are used. 
 When the " carreteros" have far to go with heavy loads, an 
 extra yoke or two is either led or driven along, to be used 
 in case of accident, and to relieve the others when tired. 
 Two men are attached to each carreta ; one armed with his 
 machete, or a gun, goes ahead, to clear away obstacles, and 
 to indicate the path, for the oxen are trained to follow him ; 
 while another either walks behind or rides in the cart, and 
 has a long pole pointed with an iron spike, with which he 
 " touches up" the animals if they are inclined to loiter or be 
 lazy. This kind of admonition is accompanied by shouts to 
 them collectively or individually, for each one has a name, 
 and with epithets more forcible than elegant. So the ap- 
 proach of a cart is often known while it is half a mile or more 
 distant; not solely by the shouts and maledictions of the 
 " carreteros," but by the awful squeaking and shrieking of the 
 wheels, which never fail to set the strongest nerves in a 
 quiver. The roads in Nicaragua are lined with fragments of 
 broken carts, here a wheel split in pieces, and there an axle 
 broken in two. The axles are the first to fail, and therefore 
 every cart carries two or three extra axles, in reserve for 
 emergencies. If, however, the carretero should be unpro- 
 
206 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 vided, lie selects the first hard wood tree of the proper size 
 which he can find, makes a new axle, and in half an hour is 
 on his way again. The loads which are carried in these rude 
 vehicles are almost incredible. Twenty-five hundred pounds 
 is the standard freight, and is carried from twenty-five to 
 
 HIDE -COVE RED CART IN NICARAGUA. 
 
 forty miles a day, depending somewhat upon the season. 
 The morning, from three and four o'clock until eight or ten, 
 and again in the evening from four until nine, are the usual 
 hours for moving, for then the air is comparatively fresh and 
 cool. Each cart carries a certain amount of " sacate " and 
 corn for its animals, and their masters bivouac by the road- 
 side wherever night overtakes them. The oxen are fastened 
 to trees, the men light a fire and cook their coffee, and after * 
 wards wrap up their heads in handkerchiefs, and if it is the 
 dry season, swing their hammocks between two trees and go 
 to sleep. It usually happens that two or more carts go in 
 company, for mutual aid in case of accident, and then their 
 
CARRETEROS— DEPARTURE. 
 
 207 
 
 cncampmeiits, upon which the traveller often comes suddenly 
 at night, are highly picturesque. On such occasions, some 
 swing carelessly in hammocks, others recline on the ground, 
 and others busy themselves around the fire, while all smoke 
 with unbroken energy. Half the night is sometimes spent 
 in card playing, by fire light; and bursts of laughter and 
 snatches of song startle the sleepy traveller jogging through 
 the forests, and are answered by the growls of the wild 
 beasts or the howls of the " mono Colorado." They are stal- 
 wart, jolly fellows, these " carreteros," and like the " arrie- 
 ros," or muleteers of Mexico, invincibly honest. Merchants 
 never hesitate in entrusting the most valuable goods to their 
 care, and I believe no instance is known of their proving 
 faithless to the trust reposed in them. On the contrary, the 
 poor fellows, when attacked by robbers, as they sometimes 
 are, will fight to the death in defence of their carts. Like 
 the " marineros" on the lake, they constitute an almost dis- 
 tinct class of citizens, and in the city of Leon live in a certain 
 "'barrio," or ward, that of San Juan. Some of them have a 
 large number of oxen and carts, which they sub-let to the 
 poorer members of the fraternity of "carreteros," among 
 whom exists an esprit de corps which will permit no under- 
 bidding or other irregular practices. 
 
 The morning of our departure came, and agreeably to in- 
 structions, Ben roused us at early dawn. We were individu- 
 ally ready to move at sunrise; for, although we only pro- 
 posed to go to the city of Managua, a distance of fifty miles, 
 the first day, we wished to take the journey leisurely, as be- 
 came travellers in a new and strange country. Don Frede- 
 rico, as our old friend, Monsieur Sigaud, at San Juan, had 
 done before, smiled incredulously when we talked of an early 
 departure; but, as the horses and mules were positively en- 
 gaged to be at our door at sun-rise, and as the man who let, 
 them was a person of mark, and an old Spaniard to boot, we 
 felt a good deal of faith in our plans. The sun rose, and 
 
208 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 after walking up and down the corridor, in heavy boots, with 
 clanking spurs, for half an hour, with a growing conviction 
 that we were somewhat verdant, we were called to breakfast. 
 Don Frederico looked provokingly good-natured, and when 
 Ben, who had been despatched to stir up the laggard " em- 
 prestador" returned, with the news that the men had only 
 just gone to hunt up the animals in the fields, he laughed 
 outright, and so did we, notwithstanding our vexation. We 
 shortly found that our escort was no better off ; their horses 
 had not yet come in. So we all went to the plaza, and sat 
 until past nine o'clock, witnessing the drilling of the new 
 recruits. All things must have an end, and so did our sus- 
 pense. The horses finally came ; and, after a world of try- 
 ings on and takings off, pulling here and padding there, the 
 beasts were saddled, and we marched to the plaza, where, 
 according to previous understanding, we were met by the Gen- 
 eral and his staff, and a crowd of citizens on horseback, who 
 had gathered to escort us " with all the honors" out of the 
 city. My young medical friend from New Haven had won 
 the privilege of carrying the flag at the head of the cavalcade, 
 and after him, under the marshalling of a stalwart Buckeye, 
 who had served amongst the dragoons in the Mexican war, 
 the " Californian division" was arranged in column with 
 military precision. The troops were all drawn up, and pre- 
 sented arms as we defiled by, under a discharge from the 
 cannon in front of the " Cuartel General." The people lined 
 the streets, and shouted as earnestly for " los Estados Uni- 
 dos del Norte," and its representative, as they did for the 
 "esclarecido General," upon his arrival a few days before. 
 
 I could not help thinking of the figure which our singular 
 cavalcade must have cut in the eyes of an uninterested specta 
 tor, nor resist smiling at my own part in the affair. It, how- 
 ever, was a bona fide ceremonial, and so received and valued. 
 As we approached the arsenal, we found its garrison on the 
 qui vive; a little wreath of smoke shot up, and boom went the 
 
A BAD MULE FOR A GOOD HORSE. 
 
 209 
 
 cannon there. Altogether this was more imposing than our 
 departure from San Carlos, and not a whit less entertaining. 
 
 I was mounted on a large white mule, which the emjwesta- 
 dor had specially recommended to me as " muy manso y 
 comodo" very gentle and easy ; but which I soon found was 
 an old broken-winded beast, and a villanously hard travel- 
 ler. The General observed that I had been taken in, and 
 glancing round, fixed his eyes on the dashing horse of a 
 young fellow, deputed by the government to accompany us 
 on our march as commissary and provider. Directly he 
 stopped short, and ordered him to dismount and change ani- 
 mals with me. The order was promptly obeyed, — for there 
 was no parleying with the General ; and although I thought 
 the proceeding rather summary, I was too glad to get rid of 
 the mule to offer the slightest objection to the arrangement. 
 Besides, the deposed horseman should have provided us with 
 better animals — of course he should ! 
 
 Our escort accompanied us about two miles, to a point 
 where the short cut, or mule path, to Masaya diverged from 
 the camino real; and here, after a profusion of bows, an 
 interminable shaking of hands, and "buenasviajes," and 
 " Dios guardes," in every tone and emphasis, we separated 
 from the crowd, and went on our way alone. The path was 
 narroAv, and led through bush and brier, under gigantic 
 trees, draped all over with vines, down into dark ravines, 
 where the sun's rays never reached, over ridges covered with 
 grass, with here and there clusters of luxuriant trees, gemmed 
 all over with fragrant flowers, where we could catch views 
 of the glittering lake, with its distant shores, and several 
 islands. Thus we went, in Indian file, the red shirts and 
 gleaming arms of the men giving life and relief to the scene, 
 and making the noisy parrots, which fluttered beside the path, 
 still more noisy ; while brightly colored birds glanced in and 
 out of the thick green coverts, or a startled deer bounded 
 hurriedly before us ! Altogether, the noveltv, excitement, 
 27 
 
210 
 
 NICARAGUA— NARRATIVE 
 
 and beauty filled me with that wild delight which only the 
 Arab feels, or the free Indian on his prairie ocean, and one 
 hour's enjoyment of which were "worth ten years of quiet 
 life!" My chest expands, and every nerve becomes tense, 
 even now, while I write, at the recollection of that glorious 
 morning, and that march to Masaya. Occasionally Ave came 
 upon a cane house, nestled in some quiet glen, or upon some 
 beautiful slope, surrounded by palms and plantains, and 
 fields of tobacco and maize, in the doors of which stood 
 women and knots of frightened children, who gazed wonder- 
 inglyupon our strange party. They all seemed reassured 
 when we cried out " adios amigas !" and responded with 
 " Dios guarde a Ustedes, caballeros !" " God preserve vou, 
 Sirs !" At about six miles from Granada, we reached the 
 highest point of ground between that city and Masaya; one 
 of those ridges of land which seem to radiate like the legs of 
 a lobster from the great volcano of Momobacho, and which 
 are, for the most part, destitute of trees. From this point 
 we obtained our finest view of Lake Nicaragua, the river, or 
 estuary of Tipitapa connecting it with Lake Managua, and of 
 that lake itself, hemmed in, upon the east, by the high irreg- 
 ular mountains of Matagalpa and New Segovia. Between us 
 and the lakes was a magnificent slope, leagues on leagues in 
 extent, a sea of dense tree-tops, unrelieved, so far as the eye 
 could discover, by a single acre of cleared or cultivated 
 ground. Vet there were many haciendas and estates, the posi- 
 tions of which were indicated by wreaths of smoke rising in 
 thin curls here and there above the trees. We dismounted, 
 and sat for half an hour beneath a spreading tree, to enjoy 
 the prospect, and pay our respects to the canteens of water, 
 (diluted with ardiente,) with which each man was supplied. 
 
 The path by which we journeyed had been used, from time 
 immemorial, for mules and horses, and in many places, par- 
 ticularly on the declivities of the swells of land, where water 
 had contributed its aid, it was worn deep in the soft rock 
 
V 
 
 ENTRANCE TO MASAYA. 
 
 211 
 
 and compacted earth, and so narrow as utterly to preclude 
 all turning around after it had once been entered. Upon 
 approaching such places, if their whole extent cannot be dis- 
 covered, it is usual to halloo loudly, in order to ascertain if 
 any one is approaching; forif horsemen meet in these places, 
 one or the other must back out, — a process sufficiently 
 difficult. 
 
 At about one o'clock the more frequent occurrence of cul- 
 tivated grounds, of little "hattos" and cane cabins, showed 
 that we were approaching the large Indian pueblo of Masaya. 
 The path became broader, and showed constant use; and 
 numerous little paths diverged in every direction. AVhere 
 they joined the main road, crosses were in some cases erected, 
 ou which hung wreaths of faded flowers, perishing tokens of 
 pious zeal. We now met and overtook numbers of Indians, 
 singly and in groups, carrying netted sacks, filled with ears of 
 maize, with vegetables, or meats: some had braided mats, hats 
 of woven palm leaves, hammocks, and other articles for sale 
 or use. They all silently gave us the road on our approach. 
 They seldom spoke unless first addressed; but then always 
 replied politely, sometimes adding, interrogatively, "Cali- 
 fornia?" They were small, but well-formed, with features 
 much more regular than our Indians, and of singularly mild, 
 and expressive features, and docile manners. 
 
 The entrance to Masaya was by a long and broad street, 
 lined on both sides by a forest of fruit-trees, beneath which 
 were clustered the thatched cane houses of the inhabitants. 
 We had previously waited until the rear of our party had 
 come up, and now spurred through the streets in a solid col- 
 umn. As we went on, the houses became more numerous, and 
 occasionally one of adobes, with a tiled roof, appeared amongst 
 the frailer structures which 1 have described. After going 
 nearly half a mile, we turned short to the right, and riding 
 for a number of blocks in streets precisely resembling those 
 of Granada, passing an abandoned convent or two, we gal- 
 
212 
 
 NICARAG U A — NARRATIVE. 
 
 loped into the principal plaza. In the centre of this stood 
 the great church, a long, heavy building, with a very fair 
 facade and tower, and much exceeding in size any of the 
 churches of Granada. On the sides of the plaza were several 
 rows of fine shops, with their doors and shutters covered with 
 tin; for more foreign goods are retailed in Masaya than in 
 any other town in the State. Its people are regarded as the 
 most industrious, and arc celebrated throughout all Central 
 America for the extent and variety of their manufactures. 
 Cordage, hammocks, saddles, cotton cloth " petates" or mats, 
 hats, shoes, in short, all the articles of common use in the 
 country, arc produced here, besides large quantities of dulces 
 (sweetmeats and jellies,) which were, at one time, extensively 
 exported to Peru and South America. But the shops, in 
 consequence of the existing troubles, were shut, and the 
 plaza was almost entirely deserted. Near the dead wall of 
 the church a rude chair was standing; it was the fatal 
 " banqueto" upon which, a few days before, one of the leading 
 " facciosos" of the city, after having been tried and condemned 
 by a court-martial, had been shot. Near by the sod was 
 turned up, marking the spot where the body of the executed 
 man was buried, lie had been tried at one o'clock, con- 
 demned at two, shot at three, and buried at four. Short 
 shrift, indeed; but such is the summary process of martial 
 law in Nicaragua, when, as in this instance, the guilt of the 
 criminal admits neither of doubt nor extenuation. Some of 
 our party had witnessed the execution, which they described 
 as very impressive. It was done in sight of the entire army, 
 from which a corporal's guard was detached for the service. 
 The prisoner was first taken within the church, where be 
 confessed and received the sacrament, lie was conducted 
 to his seat by two priests, a little cross put in his hands, and 
 a blessing invoked on his soul. Guns, in half of which only 
 were balls, were placed in the hands of the guard, who fired 
 at the distance of ten paces. The man fell dead at the first 
 
THE CITY OF MASAYA. 
 
 213 
 
 discharge. The example was deemed necessary, and it no 
 doubt was so in this instance. It should, however, be ob- 
 served, that no officer has established a higher character for 
 humanity than General Muhoz, who has never stained his 
 reputation by any of those butcheries and wanton cruelties 
 which have been the rule, rather than the exception, in the 
 civil wars of Spanish America. 
 
 We rode to a posada kept by an exceedingly fat and cheer- 
 ful lady, who was so happy that her " pobre casa" should be 
 honored by the "hijos dc AVashington," the sons of Wash- 
 ington! In a few minutes, several of the alcaldes of the 
 town came in, out of breath, and in great tribulation because 
 they had not been apprised of our approach. They proposed 
 even now to ring all the bells, and were urgent that we 
 should stop the rest of the day. so as to give them an oppor- 
 tunity of making a demonstration commensurate to the im- 
 portance of the occasion. But we pleaded haste, and pro- 
 mised to return soon, and thus escaped being lionized in 
 -Masaya. We had proposed to stop here several hours, and 
 visit the remarkable volcanic lake, from which the town is 
 supplied with water, but the delay of the morning compelled 
 us to cut short our stay, if we would reach Managua, twelve 
 leagues distant, that night. So we only allowed the horses 
 to breathe awhile, and then mounted again and resumed our 
 march. We went quite two miles from the plaza before we 
 g<»t. fairly out of the city, which has some fifteen or eighteen 
 thousand inhabitants, and covers full a square league. 
 
 Beyond Masaya is a broad and beautiful avenue, lined on 
 either hand by luxuriant fields : in this respect far surpassing 
 the country around Granada. This avenue leads to the 
 pueblo of Nindiri, and people mounted or on foot passing to 
 and fro, gave it an appearance of animation beyond what Ave 
 had hitherto seen out of the towns. About midway between 
 Masaya and Nindiri, the road passes over a bubble-shaped 
 hill, raised by volcanic forces from below, the uplifted strata 
 
214 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 curving with all the regularity of the rainbow. Although it 
 would have been easy to 'have passed around it, yet us the 
 Indians before the conquest had probably gone direct])- over, 
 the same path has been continued, for no better reason, evei 
 since. It however had been much improved, and a dee). 
 notch had been cut or worn in the soft sand rock, to the 
 depth of forty or fifty feet, resembling very much the deep 
 cuts on the lines of some of our railroads. Upon one side, 
 in a little nitch, stood a small cross, covered with wilted 
 flowers. Beyond this defile, the road resumed its broad and 
 level course, and we rode rapidly over its gravelled bed into 
 the town of Nindiri. 
 
 Xindiri! How shall I describe thee, beautiful Nindiri, 
 nestling beneath thy fragrant, evergreen roof of tropical trees, 
 entwining their branches above thy smooth avenues, and 
 weaving green domes over the simple dwellings of thy peace- 
 ful inhabitants ! Thy musical name, given thee long ages 
 ago, perhaps when Rome was young, has lost nothing of its 
 melody; Neenda, water, trndDiria, mountain, it still tells us, 
 in an ancient and almost forgotten tongue, that thou slumber 
 est now, as of yore, between the lake and the mountain! 
 Amongst all the fairy scenes of quiet beauty which the eye 
 of the traveller hath lingered upon, or the fancy has limned 
 with her rosy-hued pencil, none can. compare with thee, beau- 
 tiful Xindiri, chosen alike of the mountain Fairies and forest 
 Dryads, of the Sylphs of the lake, and the Naiads ofthe foun- 
 tain! Nindiri! 
 
 This little Indian village far surpassed, in point of pictur- 
 esque beauty, anything we had yet seen. Oranges, plantains, 
 maranons, jocotes, nisperos, mamays, and tall palms, with 
 their variously-colored fruits blushing brown or golden 
 among the leaves, and here and there a low calabash tree, 
 with its green globes strung on every limb, all clustering to- 
 gether, literally embowered the cane huts of the simple- 
 minded and industrious inhabitants. Indian women, naked 
 
XINDIM ■ — AX APOSTROPHE. 
 
 215 
 
 to tlie waist, sat beneath the trees spinning snow-white cotton 
 or the fibre of the pita, {agave,) while their noisy, naked little 
 ones tumbled joyously about on the smoothly -beaten ground, 
 where the sunlight fell in flickering, shifting mazes, as the 
 wind Lent the branches of the trees with its unseen lingers. 
 Quid primitive Nmdiri ! seat of the ancient caziques and 
 their barbaric courts,- — even now, amidst the din of the crowd- 
 ed city, and the crush and conflict of struggling thousands, 
 amidst grasping avarice ami importunate penury, bold- 
 fronted hypocrisy and heartless fashion, where virtue is 
 modest and vice is brazen, where fire and water, and the 
 very lightnings of heaven, are the slaves of human will, how 
 turns the memory to thee, as to some sweet vision of the 
 night, some dreamy Arcadia, fancy -born, and half unreal ! 
 
 We rode through the arched and he<lge-lined streets into 
 a broad open plaza, in the centre of which stood a quaint old 
 church. A few sleek cows were lying in its shade, chewing 
 their cuds in a meditative May, and hardly opening their 
 sleepy eyes as we trotted by. Beneath some large trees upon 
 one side of the plaza, we descried our carts and their escort, 
 taking what at home would be called "a nooning." The 
 lances of the men were stacked together, and their horses 
 fastened with lariats to the carts, forming, with their gay 
 trappings, a striking group, abundantly set off by the reclin- 
 ing figures of their riders, who had disposed themselves in atti- 
 tudes expressive of the fullest abandonment to individual 
 ease. We were not long in joining the party. The officer 
 in command, in anticipation of our arrival, had prepared two 
 or three jars of "algo fresco," something fresh,. delight- 
 fully compounded of water, the juice of the cocoa-nut, and 
 of the acidulous marailon, — a delicious and refreshing bever- 
 age, to which wc paid our respects in protracted draughts, 
 not forgetting " mil gracias" and sundry medios to a plump, 
 laughing Indian girl who dispensed it, in snowy calabashes, 
 to the thirsty strangers. 
 
216 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE.. 
 
 The only part of the road which was supposed to be fre- 
 quented by the ladrones was now passed, and although the 
 commander of the escort was very willing to proceed with 
 the carts, I did not think it necessary, and so it was agreed 
 that he should return. This arranged, weal] mounted again, 
 and the last we saw of our military friend was the gleaming 
 lances of his men, and the fluttering of their little red stream- 
 ers, as they galloped back through the streets of Nmdiri. 
 
 Beyond the town we struck into the forest, and began to 
 ascend one of the slopes or spurs of the volcano of Masaya. 
 Occasional openings among the trees enabled us to catch 
 glimpses of lake, plain, and mountain, more extended even 
 and more beautiful than those which we had witnessed in 
 the morning, from the heights beyond Masaya. The road 
 ) hissed over fields of disintegrating pumice and lava-beds 
 ages old, and now covered with accumulated soil and a thick 
 forest. At the distance of about a league, however, we came 
 to what is called the u mal pais" literally, the bad country. 
 It was an immense field of lava, which at the last eruption 
 of Masaya had flowed down from the volcano, for a distance 
 of fifteen or twenty miles, in the direction of the lakes. The 
 road crossed it on the summit of a ridge running transversely 
 to the lava current, where the field was narrow, but spread- 
 ing out on both sides to a great distance. It looked like a 
 vast plain of cast iron, newly cooled, black and forbidding. 
 In places it was rolled up in frowning masses, elsewhere 
 piled one flake on the other, like the ice in the spring time, 
 upon the shores and low islands, or in the narrow channels 
 of our rivers. An ocean of ink, suddenly congealed during a 
 storm, if the imagination of the reader can picture it, would 
 better illustrate its appearance than anything else which 
 occurs to mc at this moment. Here and there great, ragged 
 masses, fifty or a hundred feet square, had been turned com- 
 pletely over by the current as it flowed beneath, exhibiting 
 upon the exposed surface a regularly striated appearance, 
 
VOLCANO OF MASAYA. 
 
 217 
 
 like the curling fibre of the oak or maple. I dismounted and 
 scrambled out amongst the crinkling fragments, but did not 
 go far, as the sharp edges and points cut through my boots 
 like knives. At one place I observed where the half-cooled 
 lava had wrapped itself, layer on layer, around a large tree, 
 which, subsequently burning out or decaying, had left a per- 
 fect cast of its trunk and principal branches, so accurate that 
 the very roughness of the bark could still be traced. But 
 what struck me with most surprise was the circumstance that 
 the flood of lava had flow r ed over the narrow ridge where I 
 was standing, and that a depression existed between me and 
 the volcano whence the molten matter had come. It was 
 clear enough that the popular adage and axiom about the 
 indisposition of water to flow up hill, does not always apply 
 to lava. The explanation of the phenomenon may perhaps 
 be found in the fact that the surface of the lava cooling, is 
 thrown off in fragments, building walls on either side, be- 
 tween which the lava current continues to flow, until rising 
 high, and the vertical pressure becoming great, it breaks 
 through the barrier, and discharges itself laterally. Or, the 
 intermediate valley being filled by the melted substance with 
 a rapidity which 'would not admit of its finding its level at 
 once, it is easy to understand that it might discharge itself 
 over the ridge ; and the supply subsequently ceasing, the 
 accumulated matter in the valley, spread out laterally and 
 subside, in the manner here exhibited. 
 
 Not a tree intervened between me and the volcano, only 
 the broad, black and rugged waste of lava. I could therefore 
 distinctly see the mountain, and trace the ragged outlines of 
 its ancient and principal crater. This latest discharge of 
 lava, however, does not seem to hare been made from this 
 mouth, but from a lower elevation, upon the slope of the 
 volcano. This elevation had a reddish, scoriaceous appear- 
 ance, and its crater, one side of which had been broken down 
 28 
 
218 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 by the lava, was comparatively small. In fact there were a 
 number of orifices, or craters, at other points, which had been 
 the vents in previous eruptions. It was evident enough that 
 there had been hot work here in past times, although every- 
 thing looked quiet enough now. 
 
 The early chroniclers have a great deal to say about this 
 volcano, which was called " El Infierno de Masaya" the Ilell 
 of Masaya. Its last eruption, when the lava field which I 
 have described was formed, occurred within the historical 
 period, in 1670. No detailed account of it has ever been pub- 
 lished, although there is little doubt that it was duly recorded 
 by some of the ecclesiastics of the country, whose relations 
 still exist amongst the archives of the Church in Spain or Italy. 
 
 Since this final eruption, the volcano has been in a dor- 
 mant state. It was visited in 1810 by Mr. Stephens, who 
 discovered no signs of activity. Yet, at the time of the Dis- 
 covery, it was regarded as one of the greatest wonders of the 
 New World. The chronicler Oviedo visited it in 1529, and 
 has left us a very complete account of its appearance and 
 condition at that period. He says : 
 
 " There is another mountain in this province, called Masaya, of which I 
 can speak as an eye-witness, having visited it in person, after having heard 
 many fables related by those who pretended to have ascended to the cra- 
 ter. I once went up Vesuvius, and beheld a crater of twenty-five or 
 thirty fathoms in diameter, from which smoke rose perpetually, which 
 smoke people say changes to a very bright flame at night. I remained 
 there a whole night, with the Queen of Naples, whose chief of the ward- 
 robe (guarda ropa) I was, whither I accompanied her in 1501. From 
 thence we went to Palermo, in Sicily, near which is Mount Etna." 
 Oviedo here makes a long enumeration of the volcanoes known at the 
 time lie wrote, and continues: "But it seems to me that none of these 
 volcanoes are to be compared with that of Masaya, which, as I have said, 
 I have seen and examined myself. Of this the reader shall be the judge, 
 after he has read the description of that mountain, whose name signifies 
 'the burning mountain,' in the language of the Chorotegans, in whose ter- 
 
VOLCANO OF MASAYA. 
 
 219 
 
 ritory it is situated. In the language of Nicaragua it is called ' Popo- 
 gatepec,' which means ' boiling stream." 
 
 "I will now relate what I saw. I left the village of Managua, July 
 25, 1529, and spent the night at the house of Diego Machuca [who, we 
 have seen, was the first explorer of Lake Nicaragua], being half a league 
 from the foot of the mountain, on the shores of Lake Nindiri. I de- 
 scended the same day to examine the lake ; and the next, which was 
 St. James' day, I started before the rising of the sun to ascend the 
 mountain, and behold the flame, and the other extraordinary things 
 worthy of mention. This mountain is very steep, and is surrounded by 
 Indians of the Chorotegan nation. Tigers, lions [pumas], and many other 
 ferocious animals abound here. Beyond this mountain stretches an un- 
 cultivated plain, which the Spaniards have named el mat pais. It is cov- 
 ered with rocks, resembling scoriae. In this an isolated mountain rises 
 up to the height of a league from foot to summit. The mountain may be 
 three or four leagues |in circumference at its base, and is entirely differ- 
 ent from those in its neighborhood. I know that many Spaniards 
 have sent descriptions of this mountain to the emperor; and that others, 
 on their return to Spain, have given out what they have seen, whose rela- 
 tions I do not doubt. On the contrary, I rejoice that I am to speak of a 
 matter so well known, and that there is no lack of witnesses who can 
 attest, the truth of my recital. Many of those who pretend to have visited 
 this mountain have only seen it from a distance ; and but few have as- 
 cended it. Some assert that the light of the flame is sufficiently strong to 
 read by, at the distance of three leagues, which I cannot confirm. 
 
 •' I left the house of Machuca in the middle of the night, as I have be- 
 fore mentioned, and I had nearly reached the summit at sunrise. It 
 was not, however, light enough for me to read my prayers (breviary), 
 which I had brought with me, when 1 was within a quarter of a league 
 of the summit. Yet the night was very dark, in consequence of which 
 the flame appeared more brilliant. I have heard persons worthy of credit 
 say that when the night is very dark and rainy, the light from the crater 
 is so vivid that one can see to read at the distance of half a league; 
 this 1 will neither affirm nor deny, for at Granada or Saltcba, when there 
 is no moon, the whole country is illuminated by the flame of the volcano; 
 
 1 This is a mistake of the chronicler. Popo or poco is the Mexican for 
 smoke, and tepee mountain, i. e. "Smoking Mountain." Ca or ga is a 
 word used to impersonate, embody, or individualize. It will shortly be 
 seen that a Mexican colony existed in Nicaragua. 
 
220 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 and it is a fact that it can be seen at the distance of sixteen or twenty 
 leagues; for I have seen it at that, distance myself. However, we cannot 
 call that which proceeds from the crater precisely a flame, but rather ;i 
 smoke as bright as a flame ; it cannot be seen at that distance by day, but 
 only at night, as I have said. 
 
 "But to return to my journey; I was accompanied by a cazique 
 whose baptismal name was Don Francisco ; in the Chorotegan language 
 he was called Natatime ; also by a negro and two faithful Indians. Al- 
 though the negro was a safe man, I acknowledge that I was wrong to 
 put myself in such company; but I made up my mind to do so from the 
 desire I had to succeed in this enterprise. I had found Machuca sick ; 
 those who were to accompany me had broken their word, and returned 
 to Granada; yet I was not willing to suspend my journey, so great was 
 my desire to learn what truth there might be in the relations of those who 
 pretended to have been there. When it was no longer possible to go on 
 horseback, I dismounted, and put sandals of woodjon my feet, for shoes 
 would not answer for such a road. I left one of the Indians to take 
 charge of my horse, and went forward with the cazique, who served us 
 for a guide, and who, with the negro and the other Indian, I made to go 
 before me. "When the cazique arrived near the crater, he sat down, fifteen 
 or twenty paces off, and pointed out to me with his finger the frightful 
 spectacle. The summit of the mountain forms a plateau, covered with red, 
 yellow, and black rocks, spotted with divers colors. Except on the east- 
 ern side, where I stood, the whole plateau is occupied by a crater, whose 
 orifice is so large, that in my opinion a musket ball could not traverse it. 
 There proceeds from it a continual smoke, but not so thick as to pre- 
 vent one from examining it both internally and externally ; for, as the 
 east wind blows continually here, it bears the smoke away to the oppo- 
 site side from the spectator. This crater is, to the best of my judg- 
 ment, and of those whom I have heard speak of it, about one hundred 
 and thirty fathoms in depth ; the width continually diminishing as it 
 descends. This mountain is not as high on its southern and eastern 
 sides as on the others, and looks like human workmanship, so regular 
 are its outlines; excepting, however, the side where I was, which, as I 
 have before mentioned, is covered with rocks. There were also some 
 caverns, but one could see little or nothing but their entrances; and the 
 sides of the crater could scarcely be seen; for no one durst advance suf- 
 ficiently near. 
 
 "At the bottom of the crater could be seen a place perfectly round, 
 and large enough to contain a hundred cavaliers, who could play at 
 
VOLCANO OF MASAYA. 
 
 221 
 
 fencing and have more than a thousand spectators; it would hold even 
 more than that, were it not for another crater in the middle of it, in- 
 clining a little to the south, which can be very distinctly seen. It 
 appeared to me to be from forty to sixty fathoms in depth and four- 
 teen or fifteen paces in circumference. It might be much more ; for I 
 viewed the opening from a very high point, and the depth from a still 
 higher point. On the north side, the crater is three times as far from 
 the interior wall of the volcano as on the south side. 
 
 " Happening to be at Valladolid in 1548, at the court of the prince 
 N. S. Don Eodrigo de Contreras, who was once governor of this province, 
 he told me that the depth of the volcano had been measured in his 
 presence, and found to be one hundred and thirty fathoms ; and from 
 the bottom to the burning fluid, forty fathoms more ; but a circumstance, 
 mentioned to me by the commander, Fr. Francis de Bobadilla, still more 
 astonished me, viz. : that when he ascended to the crater of Masaya, with 
 some other persons, the holes were in the middle of the place, and the 
 burning matter had risen to within four fathoms of the top; and yet 
 six months had not elapsed since my journey. I am of the opinion, 
 however, that he told the truth; for besides his being a man worthy of 
 belief, 1 have heard Machuca say that he had seen the burning matter 
 rise even with the top. 
 
 " I said that I beheld at the bottom of the second crater a fire, which 
 was as liquid as water, and of the color of brass. This fire appealed to 
 me more violent than any I had ever seen before, and entirely covered the 
 bottom of the crater. From time to time this matter rose into the air with 
 great force, hurling large masses to a height of many feet, as it appeared 
 to me. Sometimes these masses were arrested on the sides of the crater, 
 and remained there, before becoming extinguished, time enough to repeat 
 the credo six times, and then looked like^ the scoriae of a forge. I cannot 
 believe that a Christian could behold this spectacle unmindful of hell, 
 and unrepentant of his sins; particularly whilst comparing this vein of 
 sulphur with the eternal grandeur of everlasting fire which awaits those 
 who are ungrateful to God ! 
 
 " Towards the middle of the first crater, a large number of parroquets 
 might be seen, circling around, of that species having the long tails, and 
 called jijaves. I could only see their backs, for I was much higher than 
 they. They make their nests among the rocks, below the spectator. I 
 threw some stones into the abyss, and made the negro do likewise, but 
 could never distinguish where they fell ; which proves clearly how high 
 was the place where I stood. Some persons have asserted that when the 
 
222 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 parroquets are fluttering among these places, and one looks fixedly, he 
 seems not to see fire but sulphur. I am not far removed from this opin- 
 ion, but leave the decision to those knowing more of the matter than 
 myself. 
 
 " On the top of the volcano, on the eastern part, an elevation rises up, 
 in which is an opening like to the crater, but deeper. A smoke ascends 
 through it, which cannot be seen during the daytime, but which pro- 
 jects into the darkness a great light, uniting itself to that proceeding 
 from the larger opening. This opening does not terminate in a broad 
 bottom, but is a funnel-shaped orifice, apparently filled with coals. The 
 cazique told me that, in the times of his ancestors, the main crater was here, 
 but that subsequently it changed its location to the spot it now occupies. 
 These two craters are separated from each other only by some rocks. 
 The ground is covered with barren trees, yielding no fruit, except one 
 alone, which produces yellow berries, about the size of a musket ball, 
 named nanzi ; they are good to eat, and the Indians say that they are 
 good for bowel complaints. No birds are seen on this mountain, except 
 crows, and the parroquets I have apoken of! 
 
 "A remarkable circumstance, told me by Machuca and Fr. Francis de 
 Bobadilla is, that the melted matter sometimes mounts to the top of the 
 crater, whilst I could see it only at a great depth. Having made due 
 inquiry in regard to this, I have learnt that when much rain falls,- the 
 fire does, in fact, ascend as far as the top ; for the cavity becomes filled 
 with water, which (lows in from all parts of the mountain, and remains 
 full until it has been overcome and destroyed by the heat of the opposing 
 element. This view of the matter is confirmed by what Olaus Magnus 
 says of the volcanoes of Iceland, which do not consume the combusti- 
 bles around them, but the water which they contain. It must be so at 
 Masaya ; for when the flame is seen at the distance of a league and a half, 
 it does not look like flame, but burning smoke which covers the whole 
 mountain. It' it were lire, it, would leave neither tree, leaf, nor verdure; on 
 the contrary, the whole mountain is covered with trees and herbage, almost 
 to the borders of the crater. 
 
 "I spent two hours here, gazing and drawing, till ten o'clock; it was 
 the day of St. Anne ; I then resumed my route to Granada, or Sal- 
 teba, which is three leagues from Masaya. Not only in this city, but 
 even at the distance of two leagues beyond it, the volcano gave as much 
 light as the moon some days before she fulls. 
 
 " I have heard the cazique of Tenderi [Nindiri] say that he has often 
 gone, in company with other caziques, to the edge of the crater ; and that 
 
VOLCANO OF MASAYA. 
 
 223 
 
 an old woman, entirely naked, has come forth from it, with whom they 
 held a monexico, or secret council. They consulted her in order to know 
 if they should make war, or decline or grant a truce with their enemies. 
 They did nothing without first consulting her ; for she told them whe- 
 ther they were to conquer or to be conquered : she told them also, if it 
 were about to rain; if the harvest of maize would be abundant; and, in 
 fine, all future events. And every thing always came to pass just as 
 she had predicted it would. On such occasions, a man or two, some 
 women, and children of both sexes, were sacrificed to her; the victims 
 offering themselves voluntarily. He added that since the Christians came 
 into the country, the old woman had appeared only at long intervals ; 
 that she had told them the Christians were wicked ; and that she did not 
 wish to have any communication with the Indians until they had driven 
 the Christians from their country. I asked him how they got below. 
 He answered that formerly there was a road ; but that the cavity had 
 been enlarged by the caving in of the land around it, and thus the path 
 had been destroyed. I asked him what they did after their council with 
 the old woman, and what was her appearance. He replied that she was 
 old and wrinkled ; that her breasts hung down over her belly ; that her hair 
 was thin and erect; that her teetli were long and sharp as a dog's; 
 her skin of a darker color than Indians ordinarily have; eyes fiery and 
 sunken ; in short, he described her as like the devil, which she must have 
 been. If this cazique told the truth, it cannot be a matter of doubt that 
 the Indians were in connection with him. When the council was over. 
 the old woman entered within the crater, and never came out except to 
 a new council. The Indians often converse about this superstition, and 
 many others ; and in their books they represent the devil with as much 
 leanness and with as many queues as we are in the habit of painting him 
 at the feet of the archangel Michael, or the apostle St. Barthelemy. I 
 am of the opinion, therefore, that they have seen him, and that he has 
 shown himself to them ; since they place his image in their temples, 
 where they perform their diabolical idolatries. On the side of the crater 
 of Masaya there is a large heap of cups, plates, and basins, of excellent 
 crockery, made in the country. Some had been broken, others were en- 
 tire. The Indians had brought them there filled with all kinds of meat, 
 and left them, saying they were for the old woman to eat, in order to 
 please or appease her when an earthquake or violent tempest takes 
 place ; for they attribute to her all the good or evil that happens to them. 
 As to the substance, in which, according to the cazique, this old one made 
 her retreat, it appeared to me to resemble glass, or the metal of bells in 
 
224 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 a state of fusion. The interior walls of the crater are of hard stone in 
 some places, but brittle almost everywhere. The smoke goes from the 
 crater on the eastern side, but it is driven towards the west by the breeze. 
 A small quantity of smoke comes out on the northern side of the crater. 
 
 " The mountain of Masaya is six or seven leagues from the South Sea, 
 and about twelve and a half degrees from the Equator. I have now 
 completed all I promised to say in this fifth chapter." 
 
 Ovicdo also gives us a long and entertaining account, at 
 second hand, of the descent of the Fray Bias del Castillo 
 into the crater of Masrya, and what befel him there. This 
 will be found translated in another place. 
 
 MACHETE-CALABOZO. MAC ANA. 
 
CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 MAGNIFICENT VIEWS OF SCENERY RELOX DEL SOL JOHN JONES AND ANTIQUT- 
 
 TIES — AN "ALARM;" REVOLVERS, AND A RESCUE DISTANT BELLS — DON PEDRO 
 
 BLANCO MANAGUA ANOTHER GRAND ENTREE OUR QUARTERS — SUPPER 
 
 SERVICE ENACTING THE LION — VIRTUES OF AGUARDIENTE AN " OBSEQUIO" 
 
 OR TORCH-LIGHT PROCESSION IN HONOR OF THE UNITED STATES — A NATIONAL 
 ANTHEM NIGHT WITH THE FLEAS FOURTH OF JULY AND A PATRIOTIC BREAK- 
 FAST — SAINT JONATHAN — LEAVE MANAGUA — MATE ARES — PRIVILEGES OF A 
 
 "COMPADRE" LAKE OF MANAGUA A MAGNIFICENT VIEW THE VOLCANO OF 
 
 MOMOTOMBO — A SOLITARY RIDE — GEOLOGICAL PUZZLE — NAGAROTE — THE POSA- 
 DA MULES ABANDONED — A SICK CALIFORNIAN — DINNER AT A PADRe's — THE 
 
 SANTA ANITA VIRTUES OF A PIECE OF STAMPED PAPER A STORM IN THE 
 
 FOREST PUEBLO NUEVO — FIVE DAUGHTERS IN SATIN SHOES— UNBROKEN 
 
 SLUMBERS ADVANCE ON LEON AXUSCO A FAIRY GLEN THE GREAT 
 
 PLAIN OF LEON A " TOUCIl" OF POETRY MEET THE AMERICAN CONSUL — A PRE- 
 DICAMENT CAVALCADE OF RECEPTION NEW ILLUSTRATION OF REPUBLICAN 
 
 SIMPLICITY EL CONVENTO A METAMORPHOSIS THE BISHOP OF NICARAGUA — 
 
 FORREST, MISS CLIFTON, MR. CLAY CRITICISM ON ORATORY NINE VOLCANOES 
 
 IN A ROW DISTANT VIEW OF THE GREAT CATHEDRAL THE CITY IMPOSING 
 
 DEMONSTRATIONS THE GRAND PLAZA A PANTOMIMIC SPEECH AND REPLY 
 
 THE LADIES, " GOD BLESS THEM !" HOUSE OK THE AMERICAN CONSUL END OF 
 
 THE CEREMONIES — SELF-CONGRATULATIONS THEREON — A SERENADE MARTIAL 
 
 ASPECT OF THE CITY TROUBLE ANTICIPATED — PRECAUTIONS OF THE GOVERN- 
 MENT. 
 
 Beyond the " mal pais" the road passed over a beautiful 
 undulating country, with occasional open, grass v spaces, dot- 
 ted here and there with little clumps of bushes and trees, 
 from whence the eye caught glimpses of the distant lakes 
 and mountains. For many miles, scoria and disentegrating 
 lava showed the extent of volcanic action in ancient times ; 
 in fact, for the whole distance to Managua, volcanic traces 
 29 
 
226 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 and products were to be seen on every hand. Half way be- 
 tween Masaya and Managua we came suddenly upon a large, 
 erect stone, which, at first glance, I supposed was one of the 
 " piedras antiguas" of the country ; a veritable monolith, like 
 those discovered by Mr. Stephens at Oopan. It however 
 proved to be " un reloxdcl sol," an ancient sun dial, erected 
 by the early Spaniards for the double purpose of marking 
 the distance and the hours. There had been an inscription 
 upon it, but it was obliterated now, and a rude cross had 
 been deeply graven in its place. I dismounted to examine 
 it more closely, and found " John Jones" scratched upon one 
 of its sides. Ubiquitous "John Jones!" lie had been con- 
 victed of bigamy, and sent to the State prison but two days 
 before I left New York! W. inquired if "Jones" was an 
 Aztec name, and I felt cheap enough about "monuments," 
 and was mounting again in great disgust, when we were all 
 startled by the sudden discharge of a pistol, in a dark ravine 
 which we had just passed, followed by a confused shout, and 
 another discharge, and then a volley in quick succession. 
 An attack, in the present unsettled state of the country, was 
 by no means an impossibility ; and the firing continuing, we 
 turned our horses' heads and galloped hack, weapons in 
 hand, to the rescue. A moment brought us within view of 
 half a dozen of our party, their horses plunging in dire eon- 
 fusion, while their riders fired their revolvers with the great- 
 est rapidity into the forest. Glancing amongst the trees, we 
 discovered the enemy, a troop perhaps thirty or forty strong, 
 crashing amongst the bushes, in full retreat. It was a squa- 
 dron of large, yellow monkeys upon which the party had 
 fired, in frolicksome mood, with a design rather to alarm 
 their comrades than injure the monkeys, who escaped with 
 no further damage than a prodigious fright, sufficient to last 
 them for the remainder of their natural lives. The cacchina- 
 tory exercises following upon such a feat oven-, we all moved 
 on together. The road was deeply shaded, but broad and 
 
A GRAND ENTREE. 
 
 227 
 
 smooth ; and, as the sun went down, conversation gradually 
 ceased, and the horses, invigorated by the cool atmosphere, 
 all fell into a rapid pace, the clatter of their hoofs alone dis- 
 turbing the silence of the evening. 
 
 Hark, a bell ! the sound vibrating even into the depths of 
 the leafy forest ! It is the oracion, and we are near Managua. 
 But it was nearly an hour before we emerged into the open 
 fields surrounding the city, and then it was so dark that we 
 could discern nothing except the lights of the houses, and 
 the occasional gleaming of the lake beyond. 
 
 Here we were met by Don Pedro Blanco, to whom I was 
 specially recommended by Don Frederico. He had come to 
 put his " pobre casa" at my disposition. Don Pedro was for 
 doing things in a grand way, and accordingly desired us to 
 wait for all the stragglers to come up, so as to make an im- 
 posing entree, which we did, at a round pace, to the great 
 alarm of the infantile, and the utter indignation of the ca- 
 nine portion of the population. It was too dark to see much 
 of the town, and I only remember interminable streets lined 
 with huts and low houses, a big church with a spectral white 
 archway in front, and a great plaza flanked by two or three 
 two-story buildings, with another large church in its centre. 
 All this was out of our way, for Pedro was determined to 
 impress us with the magnitude of the town, and I began to 
 think that it had no end, when suddenly Pedro turned short, 
 ducked his head, and dashed beneath the "Porteria" into 
 the patio or court yard of his own house, whilst our escort 
 filed off, at a tearing rate, for the public posada. Fortunate 
 escort ! 
 
 Don Pedro's house was not the most aristocratic in the 
 place, nor yet the cleanest, although his wife was amongst 
 the fattest and fairest. It had but two rooms, and one of 
 these was a tienda, or store, where our hostess dispensed can- 
 dles and candy, dry goods and dulces, toys and tobacco, 
 vegetables and medicines, in quantities to suit purchasers. 
 
228 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 Here a couple of new hammocks were forthwith swung, into 
 which we rolled without ceremony, and with all the satisfac- 
 tion of tired men. Pedro's grand entree had almost finished 
 us ; but he had considerately ordered supper before leaving 
 home, and I almost forgave him the awful trot he had given 
 us, when I saw the cloth spread and the savory dishes make 
 their appearance one by one. M., who had never before rid- 
 den two consecutive miles on horseback, and who, thoroughly 
 "used up," had lain like a log in his hammock, began now 
 to show some signs of life, and even sat up and looked vo- 
 raciously at the table. I asked for a basin of water before 
 sitting down, which Don Pedro produced at once, but pro- 
 tested against our washing ourselves then, as it was "muy 
 malo," and would bring on the calentura, or fever. This 
 superstition, I afterwards found, was not only general amongst 
 the natives, but also amongst foreigners resident in the coun- 
 try. I however never regarded it, and yet escaped the 
 calentura. 
 
 Pedro's supper was well enough served, only there were 
 neither knives nor forks. Ben supplied these from his al- 
 forjaSj and we got on very well, or rather might have done 
 so ; but before we had fairly taken the edge off our appetites 
 we heard a great uproar in the direction of the plaza, suc- 
 ceeded by the firing of guns and the whizzing discharge of 
 bombas. I glanced round at our host, who so far from ex- 
 hibiting any alarm seemed to be mightily exultant. I had 
 made up my mind to be surprised at nothing, and so asked 
 no questions. Meantime the tumult increased, and the 
 squeaking of violins was to be heard in the pauses of the 
 shouting and firing. By-and-by we distinguished "Vivanbs 
 Estados Unwbsf" " Vivanlos Americanos del \ Norte /" and the 
 appalling consciousness was forced upon us that we were to 
 be lionized forthwith, and supper but half finished ! I ap- 
 pealed to Pedro to shut the door and say we were ill, and 
 would see the people in the morning; but he either did not 
 
AN OBSEQUIO. 
 
 229 
 
 understand, or affected not to do so, and before I could ex- 
 plain, the crowd was at the entrance, and pouring into our 
 apartment. The alcaldes came first, and a dozen fiddlers fol- 
 lowed. Then came the people in solid column, while the out- 
 siders kept up a perfect storm of vivas, — their upturned, swar- 
 thy faces looking singularly wild and forbidding under the 
 light of their torches. Not a tithe was able to enter, yet every 
 one seemed determined to find a place inside, and crowded 
 one upon the other to such a degree that we should have 
 been suffocated outright, had not the alcaldes formed a cor- 
 don around us, and kept off the crowd with their canes. 
 The principal or first alcalde, made a speech, full of welcome, 
 and well spiced with patriotism, in which he called us, and 
 all the people of the United States, collectively and individ- 
 ually, friends and brothers, and a great many other endear- 
 ing names, which I have forgotten ; and then everybody 
 wanted to shake hands, and thrust them forward over the 
 heads and under the arms of the front rank, a hundred at a 
 time. But as our visitors generally did not seem to have any 
 clear conception as to which of the party was the illustrious 
 object of their homage, I instructed my companions to shake 
 all the hands within their reach, and pass the owners on. In 
 this wise, and by causing Pedro to invite the entire crow r cl to 
 drink my health, at my expense, at the next pulperia, 1 
 finally succeeded in clearing the house, — but our chocolate 
 was cold, and some of our worthy visitors had availed them- 
 selves of the "noise and confusion " to pocket all the baked 
 meats. And as we sat disconsolately waiting for more to be 
 cooked, we voted the system of lionizing a bore, and M. 
 quoted Shakspeare : 
 
 " Uneasy lies the head that wears a crown," 
 
 with variations suited to our present condition. 
 
 The idea of getting the crowd off to the pulperia we all 
 
230 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 thought was a particularly happy one ; but the sequel proved 
 otherwise. In half an hour our admiring friends, greatly 
 augmented in numbers, all returned ; and if they were fer- 
 vent and enthusiastic before, what were they now ? I ap- 
 peared on the steps of the house and bowed low, and retired. 
 But bows wouldn't answer. Nothing short of a grand pro- 
 cession would furnish an adequate vent to the overflowing 
 feelings of the citizens. Pedro begged for my flag, while 
 messengers were despatched to the Californians at the po- 
 sada, to solicit their partieipation in the grand "obscquio." 
 Pending the completion of the arrangements, the crowd con- 
 tinued to increase, completely choking up the street for an 
 entire block. The confusion was dire ; the violinists played 
 as if working for their lives, while bombas were let off as fast 
 as they could be colleeted. Finally, the Californians, re- 
 freshed by an ample supper, made their appearance, and at 
 once fell into the spirit of the affair. The flag was unfurled 
 at the head of the column, surrounded by an armed guard of 
 honor; next came the officers and the viusicos, and then, as 
 the programmes at home say, " the citizens generally." The 
 procession marched through all the principal streets, hurrah- 
 ing at every corner for "El Norte," the "bello sexo," "Gen. 
 Taylor," the " Supreme Government," in fact for nearly every- 
 thing, but particularly for the "glorious flag of the North." 
 The national anthem was sung in the plaza, the multitude 
 joining in the chorus with almost frantic fervor, and then the 
 Californians were called upon to sing the national air of the 
 United States, but being unable to give it to their own sat isfac- 
 tion, they sang "Dearest May" instead, with great applause, 
 and as Pedro afterwards told us, "con mucho espiritu," 
 with great spirit ! 
 
 It was full midnight when the "obsequio" was brought 
 to a close, and our dispositions made for the night. And 
 such a night ! I had now my first introduction to the kind 
 of bed in common use in the country, and which I verily 
 
A NIGHT WITH THE FLEAS. 
 
 231 
 
 believe was instituted as a punishment for the sins of the 
 people. It consists of an ox-hide drawn, while green, tightly 
 over a stout framework of wood, and afterwards elaborately 
 polished, so as to look like the head of a drum When dry, 
 a slab of marble is a soft and downy thing in comparison 
 with it. It was on such a bed as this, with a smooth and 
 gaudily colored "potato," or mat, and a single sheet spread 
 over the hide, that I was invited to repose. I examined this 
 new instrument of torture narrowly, and finally turned in, 
 with heavy misgivings, particularly as I found that Pedro's 
 mansion was full of fleas, which had already set my nerves 
 on a gallop. I was weary enough, but it was impossible to 
 sleep — the fleas came in hungry squadrons, and the hide bed 
 grew momentarily more rigid and obdurate. I felt my own 
 pulse ; it was up to the fever rate, and I began to wish Don 
 Pedro and Don Frederico to regions unmentionable for get- 
 ting me into such a scrape. A bed on the ground, with my 
 saddle for a pillow and the sky for a roof, would have been 
 luxury itself, compared with this. I got up, unbarred the 
 door, and went out on the corridor. The cool evening air 
 was most welcome, and I vowed audibly not to go inside 
 again. So I roused Ben, who strung me a hammock be- 
 tween the columns of the corridor, in which I succeeded in 
 getting an hour or two of slumber. 
 
 When morning came, I told Don Pedro that it was the 
 anniversary of American Independence, and that it was 
 meet and becoming to breakfast with the rest of the Ameri- 
 cans at the posada. And leaving Ben to bring round the 
 animals and baggage, I got away as fast as possible from 
 Don Pedro's hospitable but awfully flea-infested dwelling. I 
 found the posada a very nice place indeed, and had the sat- 
 isfaction of learning that each one of the Californians had 
 had a comfortable cot or camp bed, with only a reasonable 
 amount of fleas. 
 
 We all breakfasted together, and drank patriotic toasts, 
 
232 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 and sang Yankee Doodle, and were altogether appropriately 
 patriotic, to the great delectation of the quidnuncs of Mana- 
 gua, who gathered in crowds around the open doors and 
 windows. They were properly instructed as to the nature of 
 "the day we celebrated/' that it was the great feast of St. 
 Jonathan ; whereupon they hurrahed for the saint, and even 
 proposed to ring the church bells iu his honor. But fearful 
 of another " obsequio," we discouraged this idea, and made 
 all haste to get off as quietly as possible. 
 
 At eight (/clock we were in the saddle. It was a gorgeous 
 morning, and the lake of Managua flashed brightly in our 
 eyes as we rode through the grand plaza. The opposite 
 shore was dim and distant, but high and rough in outline, 
 while nearer, a volcanic ridge, or succession of volcanic peaks, 
 projected boldly into the lake, forming a sort of bay, at the 
 head of which Managua was situated. Abroad, well-beaten, 
 and level avenue led out from the city, lined on both sides by 
 forests, into which paths diverged in every direction. The 
 road was filled with men and women going to their day's 
 labor in the iields ; and from their cheerful, frank air and 
 manner, it was easy to see that we were beyond " war's 
 alarms." At the distance of two leagues we came to the 
 foot of the riclge which I have already mentioned, rising 
 abruptly before us. Here, under a gigantic cebia, girths 
 were tightened, and preparations made for the ascent, which 
 is by a broad path, partly cut in the hill and built up with 
 masonry. This road was constructed by Gen. Mufioz, to 
 avoid the circuit of the camino real, or cart road, and is cre- 
 ditable to its originator. The ascent was laborious, but the 
 toil was repaid by the views which we caught of the lake 
 and its shores, from places where the precipices allowed no 
 foothold for trees, and whence the eye roamed freely over 
 league upon league of forest and undulating hills, terminat- 
 ing in the blue belt of Chontales and New Segovia. It was a 
 singular position to be thus perched on the face of a cliff, 
 
MATEARAS — A " COMADRE. 
 
 233 
 
 with high, black, and frowning volcanic rocks on one hand, 
 and a precipice, sheer and yawning, upon the other. 
 
 After winding about for half an hour, we reached the 
 summit, from which, upon the other side, the land fell off in 
 a gentle slope. This is the only hill or mountain to be en- 
 countered in the whole length of Nicaragua, between the 
 lakes and the Pacific; and this maybe avoided by taking 
 the circuit of the cart road. From the summit, two hours 
 and a half of hard riding, over a beautiful country, brought 
 us to the little village of Mateares, distinguished as being 
 utterly destitute of a single object of interest. It is a sort of 
 half-way house in the journey from Granada to Leon, and 
 has a miserable posada or two, where coffee and tortillas may 
 be obtained cheaply, and fleas gratis. We divided our party 
 between the two rival establishments, and ordered water and 
 sacate for the animals, preliminary to undertaking the hot 
 and unprotected ride of three leagues upon the sandy shore of 
 the lake, which came within the next stage of our journey. 
 Don Enrique Pallais, a Frenchman, domesticated in the 
 country, a man of large experience and a kind heart, who 
 was of our party, had his "comadre" in the posada where 
 we stopped, who embraced him affectionately as we entered. 
 She was exceedingly pretty, with a mild, sweet face, and as 
 she was apparently the mistress of the mansion, I felt a little 
 scandalized to find Don Enrique on such familiar terms 
 with her; but he explained this extraordinary relation of 
 " comadre" and " compadre," to my entire satisfaction. He 
 had been sponsor at the baptism of her child, a little yellow 
 chap just tottering about the house, and had thereby as- 
 sumed the relation of compadre — a kind of second husband, 
 without, however, any marital rights beyond the privilege of 
 an embrace at meeting, after the manner I had witnessed. I 
 afterwards observed that the fervor of the embrace bore a 
 pretty exact ratio to the good looks of the senora. The fact 
 is, I am a "compadre" myself now, and the relation brings 
 30 
 
234 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 to mind a girlish little creature, singing softly to her baby, 
 at this very hour I dare say, somewhere amongst the hills of 
 San Salvador ! 
 
 At Mateares the traveller turns suddenly to the right, and 
 descending a steep bank comes at once upon the shore of the 
 lake. For two or three miles a belt of trees intervenes 
 between the water and the cliff, beneath which passes the 
 broad, gravelly road. I had gone ahead of my companions, 
 who were deeply engaged in the concoction of lemonades at 
 the posada, and had this part of the ride alone. I took off 
 my hat, and throwing the rein upon my horse's neck, gave 
 myself up to the silence and the scene. The air was literally 
 loaded with fragrant odors from a hundred varieties of flow- 
 ers, which blushed amongst the green thickets on every 
 hand, while the waters of the lake flashed here and there be- 
 tween the trees like silver bars; and brilliant birds, noisy 
 parrots, and dignified macaws in fiery plumage, looked down 
 upon me in a familiar way, as if I were an old acquaintance. 
 Several portly iguanas, who were enjoying themselves 
 amongst the loose gravel of the road, seemed to be doubt- 
 ful whether they should turn out, or force me to do so ; and 
 when they did leave the path, it was in a very leisurely man- 
 ner, and with an expression equivalent to " what a gringo^ to 
 be riding at noonday, and disturbing respectable iguanas !" 
 
 After riding about a league, the belt of forest terminated 
 in a a few gigantic cob ias, and beyond was abroadbeacli, the 
 bare cliff rising abruptly on one side, and the lake spreading 
 out on the other, without as much as a shrub to break the 
 fervor of the tropical sun. Here a party of muleteers, return- 
 ing from Leon, were taking their noonday siesta, while the 
 mules straggled about at will, nibbling the green bushes. 
 Here too, for the first time, came fully in sight the great 
 volcano of Momotombo, with the conical island of Momotom- 
 bita in front, and the broken cones of the volcano of Las 
 Pilas upon its flank. The foreground of rocks and trees, the 
 
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 OQ 
 
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 (-3 
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 < 
 
SHORE OF LAKE MANAGUA. 
 
 235 
 
 strolling mules and reclining figures, completed a picture 
 unsurpassed, in point of novelty and beauty by any which I 
 had seen before, or have witnessed since. Its predominant 
 features are very imperfectly conveyed in the accompanying 
 drawing, subsequently taken from the same point of view. 
 
 The muleteers sat up as I rode by, answering my " adios 
 Senores" with "buen viaje, Caballero," and then fell back 
 in the sand again, and drew their sombreros over their faces. 
 The sand of the beach was fetlock deep, and covered all over 
 with white and rose-colored pebbles of pumice-stone. I 
 spurred my horse up to the water, and dismounting led him 
 along its edge, amusing myself by tossing the light pebbles 
 out upon the tiny waves, and watching them come tipping 
 back again, buoyant as corks. Hundreds of wild fowl, 
 cranes, herons, and water-hens lined the shores, or stood so- 
 liloquizing on the rocks and sand-spits which projected into 
 the water. They had the courtesy to give me the road 
 as I walked along, but hardly anything more ; and only 
 ejaculated " cluck !" when I shouted at them, which I sup- 
 pose meant "don't be kicking up a row here, at noonday." 
 In fact I began to think that all nature, animate and inani- 
 mate, had entered into a grand compact to take a quiet 
 snooze at this precise hour every day. The lake itself 
 seemed dreaming, and the smoke from Momotombo rose in 
 such a sleepy way, that I almost felt drowsy in watching it. and 
 should certainly have lain down in the sand and taken a nap, 
 had there been a tree or bush to protect me from the hot sun. 
 My only alternative was therefore to jog on, which I did 
 until I came to a place where the cliff projected forward 
 almost to the water's edge. Here I paused, and looked back 
 for my companions, but they were not to be seen. 
 
 Beyond this point the lake formed a little bay, and rocks 
 worn into fantastic shapes by the water supplanted the sandy 
 beach. These rocks seemed to be composed of a kind of 
 volcanic breccia, for fragments of pumice-stone, bits of primi- 
 
236 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 tive rock, and an occasional large piece of trachyte were vis- 
 ible in the white and slightly porous masses. Yet, at a little 
 distance, stratified sand rock appeared, overlying the breccia, 
 and anon a vein of basaltic or trachytic rock, or a frowning 
 heap of rough, black, and blistered masses of these materials, 
 superimposed on the sand rock or conglomerate, would com- 
 pletely confound my uneducated notions of geological pro- 
 priety. I presume all this apparent confusion is of easy 
 explanation amongst those versed in the natural sciences; 
 and if (as is more than likely) these can make nothing out of 
 my description, they had better go there and examine for 
 themselves. Geologically, as well as geographieally and 
 topographically, there is no more interesting region than that 
 of Nicaragua, nor one which can better repay the investiga- 
 tions of the student of nature. 
 
 I continued beneath the broiling sun for nearly a league 
 further, passing through patches of chapparal, or thorny 
 bushes, resembling the willow in the shape and color of their 
 leaves, which found a precarious hold amongst the rocks and 
 in the barren sands. Beyond these the track divided, one 
 branch running up a ravine into the woods, and the other 
 keeping along the lake. I was at a dead loss as to which to 
 take, and did not much relish the idea of sitting there solus 
 until the party came up. While in this perplexity I heard 
 the crowing of cocks in the direction of the ravine, and riding 
 in, soon found myself in a broad path which led to a cluster 
 of huts, situated so as to command a full view of the lake, 
 without being seen from the shore. 1 despatched one of the 
 niiios, under promise of the magnificent reward of one medio, 
 to watch for my companions, and tossing the bridle to a mozo, 
 walked into the best hut and took possession of the best ham- 
 mock, which a motherly old lady undertook to swing back- 
 ward and forth for me, while I should endeavor to compen- 
 sate myself for my broken slumbers of the preceding night. 
 Sleep came without coaxing, and I had a grand siesta there 
 
NAGAROTE AND ITS POSADA. 
 
 237 
 
 amongst those kind Indians. I was roused by our comi- 
 sario, who was hurrying on to order dinner for us at Nagarote, 
 and I determined to push on with him. lie had seduced one 
 of the party to take his old mule, and had now got the best 
 horse in the company, my own excepted. It was a sharp 
 proceeding, as will be seen in the sequel. 
 
 The ride to Nagarote was a fine one; in places the road 
 came down to the lake, and then wound back again amongst 
 the hills, affording a most agreeable diversity to the traveller. 
 At one place we reached a small valley, at the bottom of 
 which flowed a limpid, rippling little stream — the only one we 
 had encountered since we left Granada. The ground was beaten 
 hard, and the underbrush removed over a wide space, for this 
 was a famous resting place with the carreteros and arrieros. 
 Two or three little groups of travellers were now waiting 
 there, mixing their cups of tiste from the stream, while 
 their animals were left to roam at discretion. They invited us 
 to join them, but with the prospect of a good dinner only 
 one league ahead, we declined, and galloped on, and on, until 
 L began to think that our going to Nagarote was a grand 
 flam, or that the town itself had walked off. That famous 
 league we ever aftewards distinguished as the "live mile 
 league." We nevertheless finally came to Nagarote, a little 
 scurvy looking town, redeemed by but one really good look- 
 ing house, which I was glad to learn was the posada, The 
 landlady was "fat and forty," and welcomed us right cor- 
 dially; she liked the Americans, she said; they had " mucho 
 dinero," much money, and paid double what other folks did, 
 without grumbling. I ordered the best dinner she could 
 afford for the entire party, and then took to the hammock 
 again, to catch another installment of sleep. It was full 
 an hour before the remainder of the party came dropping in, 
 one by one, for the order of march had been completely 
 broken up, after leaving Matearas. Dinner was almost ready, 
 but yet three or four were missing. Finally these arrived, 
 
238 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 two of them on foot, and holding one of their companions in 
 his saddle. He was the verdant young gentleman who had 
 exchanged his horse for the mule of the comisario, which 
 had completely broken down some two or three leagues back, 
 and had been abandoned in the woods. He had attempted 
 to walk the rest of the way, but the exercise brought on 
 chills and fever. He was put to bed, bathed with brandy, 
 and wrapped in blankets, and having perspired freely, came 
 on next morning, all the better apparently for the attack. 
 
 I dined with Don Enrique, at the cane-built house of a 
 poor priest, with whom he was acquainted. The padre was 
 absent, but his housekeeper, a tall, pale woman, with large, 
 expressive black eyes, welcomed us very cordially. She had 
 about her some fifteen or twenty little children, collected 
 from the poorest families, to whom she taught reading and 
 writing. Her humble dwelling was destitute of a single 
 article of luxury or embellishment, unless a finely painted 
 face of the Virgin, suspended over a little altar in an inner 
 room, can be called such. I asked her if she was paid for 
 her pains ? She shook her head, and her eyes kindled and 
 her brow expanded, as she slowly raised her face to heaven : 
 her reward was there. How little do the sectaries and bigots 
 of our own country know of the devotion, and fervent, 
 unselfish piety of many of those whom they so unsparingly 
 denounce as the impure ministers of a debased religion ! 
 When I last passed through Nagarote, I called to see the 
 gentle teacher, but the hut was deserted, and rank weeds 
 were growing around it. I inquired for her at the posada ; 
 the old lady did not answer me, but her eyes filled with 
 moisture. The Santa Anita was dead ; she had gone to the 
 reward for which she had striven ; the reward of the meek 
 and the lowly in spirit ! Shall I confess it ? The heretic 
 stranger dropped a tear to the memory of the Santa Anita. 
 
 We experienced great tribulation in Nagarote in getting 
 animals to replace two or three of the scurvy mules which 
 
VIRTUES OF A GOVERNMENT ORDER. 
 
 239 
 
 had been imposed upon us in Granada, and which were here 
 unanimously condemned. We told the man whom the em- 
 prestador had sent with them, that he must supply their 
 places ; but he couldn't. All the horses and mules in the 
 place had been sent to the fields, to prevent their being 
 seized for the use of the army. "No hay, Senor!" there are 
 none, was the invariable response to our inquiries. But we 
 were bound to get on ; so I instructed our comisario to 
 produce the government order, which he carried in his 
 pocket, and take it to the first alcalde, with nry compliments, 
 and the intimation that horses must be forthcoming, or his 
 name should be faithfully reported to the "Gobierno Supre- 
 mo." The effect was magical ; horses, and good ones, ap- 
 peared incontinently; whereupon I conceived a high respect 
 for the dingy bit of paper which had wrought the miracle, 
 and copied it for the benefit of future travellers. Here it is : — 
 
 Sebastian Salinas, Ministro de Relaciones del Supmo. Gobno. del Estado de 
 
 Nicaragua. 
 
 De orden del niismo, hago saber a. todas las autoridades de los pueblos 
 del transito de esta Ciudad a la de Granada, q. el Sr. Oficial Don Jose Do- 
 lores Bermudez, a la cabeza de nueve o diez Norte- Americanos, va acon- 
 ducir a esta dicha Ciudad al Exmo. Sr. Jorge Squier Mntro. Pleinpoten- 
 ciario del G-obno. Supmo. de los Estados Unidos del Norte cerca del de 
 Nicaragua residente en Granada. Ordeno y mando a las espresadas auto- 
 ridades del transitu q. no les pongan cmbarazo a dichos Sres, y ademas en su 
 regreso con el Sr. Squier le guarden a este los rcspetosy consideraciones 
 q. exije su alto caracter. 
 
 Dado en Leon, Sellado con el Sello del Estado, enlaCasade Gobno. 
 
 a los 28 dia del mes de Junio, de 1849. 
 
 Lesprestaranlosrecursosquenecesi- ) ,- , g g a LIN IS 
 
 ten previa indennizacion. ) *- " "J 
 
 It was late in the afternoon, and dark thunder clouds were 
 gathering in the' cast, clustering around the bald, burned peak 
 of Momotombo, when we started from Nagarote for Pueblo 
 Nuevo, where we were to pass the night. The winds were fitful, 
 but cool and refreshing, and I unstrapped my poncho and threw 
 
240 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 it over the saddlebow, preparatory to encountering the storm 
 that was closing around us. It came, fierce and black, before 
 we had accomplished a single league of the five which inter- 
 vened between the two villages. In an instant we were 
 enveloped in the thick darkness, and the rain poured down 
 in torrents. We could distinguish each other only when the 
 lightnings blazed lividly around us. We left the horses to 
 their own guidance, only taking care not to be dragged from 
 our seats by the projecting limbs and overhanging branches, 
 which constitute the chief source of danger in travelling in 
 these countries in the night-time. The road became one pool 
 of water, and the unshod horses slipped constantly, in a way 
 not at all calculated to quiet one's nerves. By-and-by the 
 storm passed, rushing forth upon the expanse of the Pacific, 
 and the full moon glanced through the rifts of the passing 
 clouds, in a strange, fitful way, momentarily revealing tall 
 spectral trunks and skeleton branches, and then leaving us 
 in utter darkness. It was a wierd looking forest through 
 which we passed, and the entire party seemed to catch its 
 gloomy influences, and rode on, for more than hour, slowly 
 and in silence. Suddenly, however, the spell was broken by one 
 of the number striking up " Hail Columbia ;" the others joined 
 spontaneously in the chorus ; and when it was done, a great 
 shout was given, and every horse was spurred into a gallop, 
 spite of mud and water, nor was a rein drawn until, emerging 
 from the forest, we found ourselves saluted by a myriad 
 dogs in the streets of Pueblo Nuevo. Here wc were met by 
 two or three Americans who had started with the escort, but 
 had been left here in charge of one of their number who had 
 been injured by a fall. Anticipating our arrival, they had 
 secured places for us in the village, quartering one detach- 
 ment here and another there, in true military style. The 
 house assigned to me and my personal companions was the 
 most imposing and aristocratic mansion in the place, inas- 
 much as it was twice as large as any other, plastered with 
 
PUEBLO NUEVO. 
 
 241 
 
 mud, and whitewashed withal. It was occupied by a well- 
 dressed Sefiora and her five daughters, all attired in their 
 finest array, with satin slippers, and their dark hair newly 
 braided, and tipped out with a bunch of variegated ribbons. 
 Upon one side of the principal apartment was an immense 
 hollowed log, which was the granary ; and upon the other a 
 wax figure of Christ on the cross, surrounded by weeping 
 Marys and bearded Romans, superabundantly tinselled; the 
 whole enclosed in a large glass case, hung round with chap- 
 lets of fresh flowers. The five daughters were evidently put- 
 ting their best feet foremost, but seemed to be greatly per- 
 plexed as to which was " El Ministro." Bespattered with 
 mud, wayworn and weary, none of the party looked particu- 
 larly imposing, and I thought I could discover symptoms of 
 disappointment amongst the senoritas. They nevertheless 
 were attentive, and gave us cigaritas all round, and brought 
 coals in a silver cup for us to light them by; and what was 
 better, they gave us a capital supper, with knives for three, 
 and forks and spoons for four of the eight who sat down at 
 the table, which was rather more than the usual allowance. 
 Before we had finished, however, the alcalde came, but we 
 declined talking until supper was over ; and meantime the 
 municipal dignitaries perched themselves on the big log, and 
 looked at us in silence. We were getting very indifferent to 
 official attentions ; and so dismissed our visitors with all 
 practicable expedition, but with a great profusion of compli- 
 ments, which they seemed to relish mightily. 
 
 I got a bed with a canvass bottom, and slept dreamlessly the 
 entire night, and until eight o'clock the next morning. The 
 atmosphere was all the clearer for the storm of the preceding 
 evening, and the village looked particularly bright and cheer- 
 ful under the morning sun. Differing from the other towns 
 which we had passed, each house was here surrounded by a 
 hedge, or rather fence, of the columnar cactus, which in some 
 places was low and even, but in others shot up to the height 
 31 
 
242 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 of fifteen or twenty feet, resembling palisades, above which 
 just appeared the thatched roofs of the dwellings. " A 
 
 great country, this," said W , " where they plant their 
 
 fences ! " 
 
 We were now within eight leagues of Leon, and, with the 
 whole day before us, were not so expeditious in our move- 
 ments as we might have been under other circumstances. 
 We breakfasted leisurely, and departed with becoming de- 
 liberation. Beyond Pueblo Nuevo, the road, as usual, was 
 through a forest, with here and there open spaces called 
 "jicarcdeSy from the jicara, or calabash trees, that were scat- 
 tered over them, and which in size, and the appearance of 
 the leaves and fruit, resembled the apple trees at home. 
 
 The broad and well beaten road, hard and smooth from the 
 rain of the preceding night, was lined with palms and trees 
 covered with blossoms, which loaded the air with their rich 
 perfumes, and from which the white and rose-tinted petals 
 fell like snow, beneath the touch of the cool morning breeze. 
 Here a group of monkeys looked down upon us with queer 
 grimaces — there a flock of parroquets, nestling perdu amongst 
 the leaves, dashed wildly away upon our approach, while 
 pigeons, and red-legged partridges graciously condescended 
 to step out of the way and allow us to pass, without, how- 
 ever, exhibiting the slightest degree of alarm. Hundreds of 
 lizards, bright green and gold, darted like rays of light before 
 us ; and large ants, each bearing a fragment of a green leaf 
 above its back, marched across the path in solid columns, like 
 fairy armies with their tiny banners. Their nests, built in the 
 forks of the trees, resembled large bee-hives, and their paths, 
 from which all obstacles were removed, for the width of sev- 
 eral inches, could be traced by the eye in every direction 
 amongst the bushes. 
 
 We rode briskly along, and in less than two hours came to 
 a ravine, shut in by high banks, and descended by a series of 
 steep steps which would have been deemed utterly impractica- 
 

 INDIAN HUT, WITH CACTUS HEDGE. 
 
THE EAVINE OF AXUSCO. 
 
 243 
 
 ble at home, but which seemed to be quite a matter of course 
 to the horses here. This place was called Axusco ; and the 
 ravine once entered, it was picturesque beyond description. 
 The soil seemed moister than on the higher ground, and the 
 verdure was correspondingly rich and dense. Masses of 
 vines, leaves, and flowers were piled one on the other in the 
 utmost luxuriance, and the shadows fell with a breadth and 
 depth seen nowhere except under the tropics, and rarely 
 equalled even there. It was a suspicious place nevertheless; 
 and one or two dilapidated crosses, hardly visible amongst 
 the undergrowth, showed that it had been the scene of tragic 
 events, of robbery and murder. I afterwards often passed it 
 in the night, but never without my hand on my sword-hilt. 
 
 We rested awhile at Axusco, then spurring up the oppo- 
 site bank, resumed our march. The same forest shut us in, 
 but paths, diverging here and there to distant estates and 
 haciendas, gave evidence that we were approaching the city 
 of Leon. Finally we arrived where the trees became more 
 scattered, and through occasional openings we caught con- 
 fused glimpses of broad fields, green hills, and towering vol- 
 canoes. These glimpses revealed a section of country sur- 
 passing in its capabilities any we had yet seen. I hurried 
 on impatiently, and in a few moments, emerging from the 
 forest, the great plain of Leon opened grandly before me! 
 
 I had left my companions behind, and stood alone on the 
 borders of this ocean of verdure. Stretching away, che- 
 quered with hedge-rows and studded with tree clumps and 
 tall palms, the eye traversed leagues on leagues of green fields, 
 belted with forests, and bounded on the right by high moun- 
 tains, their regular cones rising like spires to heaven, while 
 low hills of emerald circled round on the left, like the seats of 
 an amphitheatre. In front the view was uninterrupted, and the 
 wearied eye sought in vain to discover its limit. A purple 
 haze rested in the distance, and beneath it the waves of the 
 
244 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 great Pacific rolled in, unbrokenly, from China and the 
 Indies! 
 
 It was the beginning of the rainy season, and vegetation 
 hud shot np in renewed youth and vigor ; no dust had yet 
 dimmed the almost transparent green of the leaves, nor had 
 the heat withered the delicate blades of grass and spires of 
 maize which carpeted the level fields, nor the young tendrils 
 which twined delicately around the branches of the trees, or 
 hung, blushing with buds and flowers, from the parent stem. 
 Above all shone down the glorious sun, and the whole broad 
 expanse seemed pulsating with life beneath its genial rays. 
 
 Never before had I gazed upon a scene so grand and 
 magnificent as this. Well and truly has the ancient chron- 
 icler described it as "a country plain and beautiful, full of 
 pleasantness, so that he who fared therein deemed that he 
 journeyed in the ways of Paradise." The impression pro- 
 duced upon my companions, who had in the meantime 
 joined me, was not less striking than on myself. We had 
 heard much of the great plain of Leon, but the reality far 
 surpassed the anticipations which we had formed of its 
 extent and beauty. As we rode on, however, we were sur- 
 prised to find that, although a great quantity of land was 
 cleared, not more than half of it was really under cultivation ; 
 a remark which we had subsequently frequent occasion to 
 make, for agriculture, since the independence, owing to the 
 unfortunate condition of the country, has very much de- 
 clined. 
 
 AVe had anticipated some kind of demonstration upon our 
 arrival in Leon, and remembering our plight at San Carlos, 
 had fixed upon " El Convento," about four miles from the 
 city, as the place where we should make the necessary 
 changes in our garb, preparatory to encountering the digni- 
 taries and citizens of the capital. The convent was yet a 
 league in advance, and meantime we wore the soiled and 
 mud-bespattered garments with which we had passed through 
 
PLAIN OF LEON — AN ENCOUNTER. 
 
 245 
 
 the storm of the preceding night. We had not gone far, 
 however, into the open plain, before we discovered a party 
 of horsemen galloping rapidly towards us. As they ap- 
 proached, we perceived that some wore military uniforms, 
 while the others were dressed as simple citizens. They came 
 near, and one of the party, who was evidently an American, 
 looked hard at us, and for a moment seemed in doubt. We 
 bowed, and would have passed on, but turning short, our 
 supposed countryman inquired, in English, if we had passed 
 a party of Americans, and the American minister, on the 
 road. The question was an awkward one ; I laughed out- 
 right, and matters were taking a very ridiculous turn, when 
 one of our escort opportunely coming up, introduced us to 
 Dr. Livingston, American Consul in Leon, by whom we 
 were duly presented to the accompanying offieers. The 
 scene was sufficiently ludicrous all round, and I thought the 
 seriousness of our new friends was strongly tried. I might 
 have enjoyed the affair very much, had I not been at once 
 informed that a large company of gentlemen from' the city, 
 a hundred or two in number, with the principal officers of 
 State, and the Bishop of the church, in person, at their head. 
 were coming out to meet us. But when it was added that they 
 had already passed the convent, and were not half a mile 
 distant, I was horrified. I entreated the doctor to ride back, 
 and say that we would join them beyond the convent, but 
 before the movement could be made, the whole cavalcade 
 came in sight, and descrying our group, approached us at a 
 gallop. There was no retreat, and we moved on in despair. 
 First came the Bishop in his purple robes, splendidly 
 mounted, flanked by a group of priests, and followed by a 
 train of officers, in uniforms absolutely dazzling in the noon- 
 day sun ! ****** 
 Suffice it to say, we met, and there were congratulations, and 
 welcomes, and many fine things said, — and if we did not 
 leave a sufficiently distinct idea of republican simplicity on 
 
246 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 the minds of our new friends, it will be useless for any one 
 to undertake it hereafter. They were, however, all well-bred 
 caballeros, and with true Spanish politesse, kept their gravity, 
 which, W. remarked, displayed " extraordinary self-con- 
 trol !" I nevertheless observed that some of the younger 
 officers had occasion to wipe their faces with their handker- 
 chiefs very often, and were long about it. But then it was 
 a hot day, and they had ridden fist. 
 
 I was, however, determined not to enter the city in my 
 present plight, and when we reached the convent, excused 
 myself, and left the cavalcade to proceed, promising to rejoin 
 it in a few minutes. The " convento" was only an Indian 
 hut, of which I incontinently, and not in the best of humors, 
 took possession, politely turning the family, old ones, babies, 
 pigs, and chickens, all out of doors. Ben produced the 
 diplomatic suit, which I had not seen since it left the tailor's, 
 and displayed extraordinary address in adjusting it. Ten 
 minutes eufficei I to complete the transformation, but I discarded 
 the chapeau, and stuck to the broad-brimmed Panama which 
 I had purchased in Granada, much to Ben's dissatisfaction, 
 who was bent on retrieving the credit of the legation. 
 
 "We overtook the cavalcade a few hundred yards from 
 where we had left them. They had halted beneath some 
 large trees, and our escort, which had meantime come up, 
 we also found on the spot, marshalled in the same order as 
 when we left Granada. A dashing young officer rode up to 
 me, as I approached, and begged to be permitted "to carry 
 the glorious flag of El Norte," which request was, of course, 
 graciously acceded to. Matters now began to take a more 
 promising turn, and as per programme of arrangements, I 
 found myself, with Dr. Livingston and the bishop, placed at 
 the head of the procession, which formed in column, three 
 deep. The Bishop, Don George de Viteri y Ungo, impressed 
 me, from the first, as a man far above the ordinary mark, 
 well informed, courteous, and affable, with manners which 
 
APPROACH TO LEON. 
 
 247 
 
 would have graced the proudest courts of Europe. I soon 
 found that he had been in the United States, had travelled 
 extensively in the Old World, and altogether knew more of 
 men and things than could have been surmised of an eccle- 
 siastic, however high in station, in this secluded part of the 
 world. I was nevertheless taken a little aback, I must con- 
 fess, when he inquired of me about Forrest and Miss Clifton, 
 and whether they were yet on the stage. He had seen them 
 both at the Park Theatre, and had been delighted, he said, 
 with their acting, although he had not understood a word 
 which they said. I told him that the Park had been burned, 
 and that it probably would never be rebuilt, and concurred 
 with him in regarding it as a "great pity." Mr. Clay, too, 
 he had heard speak, and had felt all he said, without 
 understanding his language. " Ah !" exclaimed the Bishop, 
 "after all, there is more in the feeling of the speaker himself, 
 and in his manner, than in his words ; — to arouse the sympathy 
 of the hearer is the true secret of oratory!" Not bad 
 criticism, I thought, for Nicaragua. 
 
 As we advanced over the plain, the cultivated fields be- 
 came more numerous, and the evidences of industry more 
 abundant. It was with something, I thought, of the spirit of 
 prophecy, that the Bishop swept his hand around the hori- 
 zon and said, " We want only an infusion of your people, to 
 make this broad land an Eden of beauty, and the garden of 
 the world." He pointed out to me the nine volcanoes which 
 skirted the plain; the gigantic Viejo; the regular Telica; 
 the riven Orota, and lofty Momotombo, which now rose clear 
 and distinct before our eyes ; these, said he, are the works of 
 the Great Architect, and that, the puny achievement of man ! 
 I looked in the direction which he pointed, and there rose 
 the towers of the great Cathedral, white and massive above 
 a wilderness of tiled roofs, foliage, and fruit trees. Not- 
 withstanding his philosophical depreciation, I thought there 
 was an expression of pride in the face of the Bishop, as 
 
248 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 his eyes rested upon tins architectural wonder of Nicaragua ; 
 nor was his complacency unwarranted, for the Cathedral of 
 Leon is a structure not unworthy a place beside the most 
 imposing sacred edifices of either continent. 
 
 Xic now rapidly approached the city, and entered the 
 suburhs, which corresponded entirely with those of Granada 
 and Masaya. Here was drawn up the carriage of the Bishop, 
 111 readiness for use, in case T should prefer it. I however, 
 chose to continue on horseback, and the polite Bishop com- 
 mended my choice. Passing the Indian barrio, of suburb of 
 Guadelupe, the people falling on their knees as the Bishop 
 approached, we descended abruptly into a deep ravine, at the 
 bottom of which flowed a clear and beautiful stream, and 
 ascended upon the other side by a broad, graded way, paved 
 with stones, into the city proper. I had merely time to 
 observe that the streets were in gala dress, when the thunder 
 of cannon, and the sudden pealing of the bells of the churches, 
 above which those of the cathedral rose full and distinct, pro- 
 claimed our arrival. " Vivan los Estados Unidos del Norte!" 
 exclaimed the officer who bore my flag, as he dashed at full 
 speed to the head of the column. The whole party caught the 
 spirit, and echoed the "viva," and the Bishop himself waved 
 his hand and cried "Adelantamos!" On! I remember but lit- 
 tle more, except a confused sound of trampling horses, shout- 
 ing people, the ringing of bells, the thunder of cannon, and a 
 cloud of dust, until we rode into the great plaza. Here the 
 entire garrison was drawn up, who presented arms and 
 cheered for the United States as we entered. The band struck 
 up a martial air, and the ladies of the metropolis waved their 
 handkerchiefs to us from the balconies of the House of the 
 Government. We halted for a moment, and the alcalde mayor 
 made a speech, which was delightfully short, but of which, 
 amidst the clangor of the bells and the shouts of the multi- 
 tude, I heard not a word. I responded in three sentences, 
 which I presume were equally unintelligible ; and then we 
 
HOUSED AT LAST. 
 
 249 
 
 moved on, amidst a dense throng, to the house of the Ameri- 
 can Consul, above which the stripes and stars floated proudly 
 to the breeze. It was with unmingled feelings of satisfaction 
 that, shaking hands with the Bishop, and bowing to the rest 
 of the cavalcade, I spurred through the archway into the 
 court of the Dr.'s residence, and away from the noise and the 
 dust of the crowded streets. But the public curiosity was 
 not yet satisfied, and the people thronged into the courtyard 
 to stare at the apparition from El Norte. Nor was it until 
 the gateway was closed and barred that we succeeded in 
 escaping from the multitude, and even then the iron gratings 
 of the windows were festooned with inquisitive boys, who 
 seemed to hang one to another like swarming bees. Some 
 considerate alcaldes, however, by a judicious application of 
 their canes, finally cleared these away, and then we got an 
 hour for privacy and dinner. 
 
 High mass had been said the day before in the church of La 
 Mercedes for our safe arrival, and now a Te Deum was 
 chaunted in the cathedral in acknowledgement of the protec- 
 tion which Heaven had vouchsafed to us. In the evening 
 fireworks were let off in the plaza, and we were serenaded by 
 the band attached to the garrison, which, to our surprise, we 
 found almost as effective as any that we had ever heard. 
 
 We found that the city was not free from the alarm which 
 had existed at Granada; and although no outbreak had 
 occurred in this part of the state, the government, acting on 
 the principle that "precaution is the parent of safety," Lad 
 taken the most complete measures to guard against surprise, 
 and to check promptly the first indications of disorder. The 
 roof and towers of the cathedral, an impregnable fortress in 
 itself, were occupied by troops ; so too was the church of La 
 Mercedes ; and the evacuated convent attached to it had been 
 converted into a cuartel of cavalry. It was immediately 
 opposite the house of Dr. Livingston, and I observed that the 
 horses of the lancers were kept constantly saddled, in rcadi- 
 32 
 
250 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 ii ess for action at a moment's warning. Advanced posts of 
 troops were also established in every principal street, and 
 after the eight o'clock bell had struck, there was no cessation 
 of the fierce " Quien vivas?" and wakeful u Alertcs /" of the 
 sentinels. 
 
 The day subsequent to our arrival was devoted to receiv- 
 ing visits from the functionaries and leading citizens of Leon. 
 Amongst them all, none impressed me more favorably than 
 the Presbitero Dr. Disiderio de la Quadra, then Vicar of the 
 bishopric, a man of great dignity of manners, and of a char- 
 acter above the remotest taint of suspicion. He was accom- 
 panied by a number of the dignitaries of the church, and 
 spoke of his country, its wants, and prospects, with a force 
 and freedom which I had little expected to hear. Indeed, I 
 soon discovered that the better portion of the population 
 fully comprehended the evils under which they suffered, and 
 only required that exterior influences should be exercised in 
 their favor, instead of against them, as it had been hitherto,<in 
 order to effect their removal. The revolutionary spirit had 
 exhausted itself, and the universal desire was now for peace 
 and quiet, stability in public affairs, and moderation in their 
 administration. All hoped much from the sympathy and co- 
 operation of the United States, and took new energy from the 
 circumstance that they had attracted the attention and awak- 
 ened the interest of its government. No better evidence of 
 the truth of these observations could be desired, than the 
 feeling exhibited on the occasion of my official presentation, 
 which took place a few days after my arrival, publicly, in 
 the hall of the Government House, which was appropriately 
 fitted up for the occasion. The proceedings were character- 
 ized by the greatest decorum, and a degree of enthusiasm 
 which it would hardly be proper for me to attempt to describe. 
 Indeed, in introducing my own address on the occasion, with 
 the reply of Sefior Kamirez, the Supreme Director of the 
 State, I am conscious that I am incurring the risk of being 
 
OFFICIAL RECEPTION. 
 
 251 
 
 misunderstood and misrepresented ; but as I have set out 
 with the purpose of vindicating the public sentiment of Nica- 
 ragua, not less than of making known the character and con- 
 dition of its people, I conceive that I cannot do better than 
 to introduce occasional documents of this kind, especially 
 when they contribute to the completeness of my narrative, 
 and to the understanding of the present posture of affairs in 
 that country. 
 
 ADDRESS. 
 
 '• Senor Director of the Republic of Nicaragua : 
 
 " I have to-day the honor of laying before you my credentials as the 
 Representative of the United States of North America, near the Govern- 
 ment of this Republic. The personal satisfaction which I feel upon this 
 occasion is greatly enhanced by the many evidences which I have already 
 had afforded to me, of the friendly sentiments which are entertained by 
 the Government and people of Nicaragua towards those of the United 
 States. I can assure you, upon behalf of my Government, that these sen- 
 timents are fully reciprocated, and that it is its earnest desire to cultivate, 
 in every way, the most cordial relations with this Republic. Of this the 
 official letters from the city of Washington, which I have now the honor 
 to deliver to yourself and his Excellency the Minister of Foreign Relations, 
 will give abundant evidence. 
 
 " It shall be my aim, Sir, in my official and personal intercourse with 
 the Government and people of this State, not only to confirm the present 
 harmony and good correspondence which exist between the two Repub- 
 lics, but to create new ties of friendship, ami to promote a closer and 
 more intimate relationship between them. They, Sir, possess common 
 interests; they both stand before the world the avowed supporters of 
 liberal principles, and the vindicators of Republican Institutions; the true 
 policy of both is the preservation of order, and the encouragement of edu- 
 cation and industry at home, and the maintenance of peace abroad. It 
 is proper, therefore, that they should present an example of that fraternity 
 which it is the desire of my Government, as I know it is of your Excel- 
 lency, should exist between the two Republics. 
 
 " To this end, and to secure the permanent welfare of both, it is essential 
 that they should pursue a system of policy exclusively American. In the 
 language of an eminent statesman of my own country, (whose memory is 
 

 252 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 reverently cherished, and whose words are treasured with care by every 
 American citizen,) 'in order that the fabric of international connections 
 between the Republics of this continent may rise, in the lapse of years, 
 with a grandeur and harmony of proportions corresponding with the 
 magnitude of the means placed by Providence in their power, its founda- 
 tions must be laid in principles of polities and morals new and distasteful 
 to the thrones and dominions of the elder world, but coextensive with tin; 
 surface of the globe, and lasting as the changes of time.' 
 
 "A cardinal principle in this policy is a total exclusion of foreign influ- 
 ence from the domestic and international affairs of the American Repub- 
 lics; and while we would cultivate friendly intercourse, and promote trade 
 and commerce with all the world, and invite to our shores and to the 
 enjoyment of our institutions the people of all nations, we should proclaim, 
 in language distinct and firm, that the American continent belongs to 
 Americans, and is sacred to Republican Freedom. AVe should also let it 
 be understood, that if foreign powers encroach upon the territories or 
 invade the rights of any one of the American States, they inflict an injury 
 upon all, which it is alike the duty and determination of all to see re- 
 dressed. 
 
 " Seiior Director! Providence has peculiarly favored the country of 
 which you are the worthy Chief Executive. I have passed through your 
 territories from the Atlantic ocean, through your rivers and magnificent 
 lakes, along the bases of your lofty mountains, and over your broad and 
 beautiful plains, until the; wide expanse of the Pacific opens before mo, 
 and I can almost hear the sound of its waves as they break upon your 
 western shores. At every step I have been deeply impressed with the 
 capabilities of the country, and the vastness of its internal resources. I 
 have seen, also, with pleasure, the many evidences of industry and civiliza- 
 tion which exist within your borders, and I have been led to indulge 
 the belief that the time is not far distant, when the commerce of two 
 hemispheres shall find within your territories an easy passage from sea to 
 sea. It is one of the objects of my mission to assist in an enterprise so 
 important to the whole world — an enterprise, the successful prosecution 
 of which must enable this country to attain a degree of prosperity second 
 to that of no other on the globe. With your cordial co-operation, (of 
 which I am well assured,) and of that of the citizens of this Republic, I 
 hope soon to have it in my power to announce to my Government, that 
 the initiatives to this grand and glorious enterprise have already been 
 taken. 
 
 "And here, Sir, you will permit me to express the profound regret 
 which I feel, that I find this Republic afflicted by civil commotions. Both 
 
OFFICIAL RECEPTION. 
 
 253 
 
 the principles and policy of the United States make us desire that this 
 and the other Republics of Central America should be prosperous and 
 powerful. We feel a deep interest in their welfare, but this we know 
 can only be promoted by enlightened and stable Governments. The 
 enjoyment of liberty, and the maintenance of individual rights, cannot be 
 secured without permanent order, and this can only spring from a sacred 
 observance of law. I trust, Sir, that the patriotic citizens of Nicaragua, 
 whatever their differences of opinion, will all unite in an earnest endeavor 
 to restore peace to the State. Nothing, Sir, could give me personally 
 greater satisfaction, and I am certain nothing could be more acceptable to 
 the Government and people of the United States, and to the friends of 
 Republican Institutions throughout the world. 
 
 "I will not, Sir, detain you further. I can only reiterate the friendly 
 sentiments of my Government and countrymen, and assure your Excel- 
 lency, and the distinguished officers of the State and army around you, as 
 also the illustrious Bishop and reverend prelates and clergy, of my per- 
 sonal high consideration and regard. Allow me also, through you, to 
 return my thanks for the many kind attentions which I have received 
 from the magistrates and citizens of the Republic, and to express the high 
 pleasure which I have experienced in learning from my countrymen, who 
 have lately been detained by unforeseen circumstances in the country, 
 the uniform kindness and courtesy with which they have been treated. 
 I am proud to learn that the name of American has been a passport to 
 every Nicaraguan heart. That the new relations which are this day 
 opened between this Republic and my own, may result in lasting benefit 
 to both, is, Sir, my sincere prayer, and to this end I shall direct my most 
 earnest endeavors." 
 
 To tins address the Supreme Director, Serlor Don Nor- 
 berto Eamirez, replied as follows : 
 
 REPLY. 
 
 " Sir, — The satisfaction which I experience in having the honor of re- 
 ceiving, for the first time, a representative of the Republic of North Ame- 
 rica, is only equalled by the aspirations and high hopes which that event 
 inspires. The gratitude with which your words have animated me, the 
 extraordinary intervention of your Government under the circumstances 
 with which Nicaragua is surrounded, impose on me the pleasing duty of 
 returning thanks to Divine Providence for its benefits. 
 
 ; : Nicaragua has long felt the necessity of sheltering itself under the 
 
254 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 bright banner of the North American Confederacy ; but the time which 
 the Arbiter of nations had designated for such high happiness and conse- 
 quent prosperity had not arrived. Before we despatched a Legation to 
 the American Minister at Guatemala, and even before the treaty relative 
 to a canal was entered into with Dr. Brown, (a citizen of your Republic,) 
 we had made some advances to the American Government with a view to 
 this happy consummation; but our hopes were scarcely sustained by 
 their result. But I now see all the elements of a happy future brought 
 before us; there is good faith in the Government with which I am con- 
 nected ; the friendliest feelings towards North America pervades every 
 Nicaraguan heart; and we have the assurances of the sympathy and sup- 
 port of the American Government. We have consequently all tilings 
 which can be desired to make available the advantages with which Hea- 
 ven has surrounded us. Our State, considering its geographical position, 
 ought to be the most prosperous in Spanish America ; but our inexperi- 
 ence at the time of our separation from Spain — our limited resources, anil 
 the civil commotions that have intervened, have retarded the happy day 
 which is now dawning upon us. I am certain that the Government 
 which you represent, can appreciate the difficulties which have surrounded 
 this Republic. Your Excellency being able properly to estimate these 
 circumstances, must already have formed a just idea of the condition of 
 this part of Central America, and of the position of its Government. 
 Believing therefore that the best intentions exist upon your part towards 
 us, as I know there is the happiest disposition on ours, I entertain no 
 doubts that we shall succeed in establishing the most intimate relations 
 between the two Republics, and in opening the way to the consummation 
 of that most glorious enterprise which it has been reserved for the succes- 
 sors of the immortal Washington to undertake and perfect. I shall have 
 the greatest pleasure in being able to contribute my humble share to- 
 wards this result, and to the consequent happiness of Nicaragua. I thank 
 you, Sir, and through you, your Government, for its proffered coopera- 
 tion in so glorious an enterprise. 
 
 "Let us begin, Sir, this great work under these bright auspices, and we 
 shall be sure of obtaining the best results. The people of the two Ameri- 
 can Continents are contemplating us ; it is possible that for what we shall 
 do, future generations shall cherish our memory : at least we shall have 
 the conscious satisfaction of having neglected no means, omitted no sacri- 
 fice, in securing the grand objects so ardently desired by two sister Re- 
 publics, determined mutually to sustain their interests, their honor, their 
 integrity, and the principles of continental freedom." 
 
A STRIKING INCIDENT. 
 
 255 
 
 An incident occurred, at the close of this reply, which per- 
 haps would have startled more rigid sticklers for form and 
 etiquette than were assembled on that occasion ; but which 
 I mention, for the same reasons that have induced me to 
 give place to the above quotations. The Director had just 
 concluded his reply, and the entire assemblage was yet still 
 and attentive, when a young officer, distinguished not less for 
 his ardent patriotism than for his bravery in the field, and 
 his usefulness as a citizen, Col. Francisco Diaz Zapata, 
 advancing suddenly beyond the line of officers, commenced 
 an impassioned apostrophe to the flag of the United States, 
 which, entwined with that of Nicaragua, was suspended 
 above the chair of the Executive. The effect was electrical, 
 and the whole of the assemblage seemed to catch the spirit of 
 the speaker, whoso appearance, action, and language were 
 those of the intensest emotion. They pressed eagerly for- 
 ward, as if anxious to treasure every word which fell from 
 his lips ; and when he had concluded, forgetting all other con- 
 siderations, their enthusiasm broke forth in loud and pro- 
 tracted " vivas," which were caught up and echoed by the 
 people in the plaza, and the soldiers of the garrison. I sub- 
 join a literal copy of the address: 
 
 SALUTACION A LA BANDERA DE LOS ESTADOS UNIDOS. 
 
 POR SENOR FRANCISCO DIAZ ZAIWTA. 
 
 '•' j Presajio dc poder y dc grandeza ! 
 j Ensena illustrc de virtud y gloria ! 
 Yo te contemplo en tu sublime alteza ; 
 
 Y al contemplarte sicnto 
 
 Que de mi Patria ensalzaras la historia. 
 Esas franjas hermosas, 
 
 Y cl emblema feliz de tus Estrellas, 
 Que ajitadas del viento 
 
 Ondean y relucen majestuosas 
 
256 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 Como astros rutilantes, y mas bellas : 
 EI hasta fuerte y noble, 
 
 Y ese cuadro, del solido figura ; 
 
 Que la herida cerviz ya, no mas doble 
 Nicaragua en su triste desventura; 
 Revelanmc que haras con tu presencia, 
 Rodeada de esplendor y de potencia. 
 " Bajo tu sombra, libertad respira 
 El aeth'0 Varon americano, 
 Que la memoria deificar aspira 
 De Washington glorioso : 
 Bajo tu sombra, se alza soberano 
 El poder dc las leycs ; 
 
 Y el saber y la vcntura crecen 
 Con vigor prodijioso, 
 
 Que pesa sobre el cetro de los Reyes. 
 
 Y los ILeroes de America enaltecen 
 Su memoria sagrada, 
 
 Sus sepulcros, su sangre de guerrcros, 
 
 Y el triunfo de tu espada, 
 
 Bajo el dulce brillar de tus luceros. 
 Todo bajo tu imperio tiene vida, 
 Portentosa Bandera esclarecida. 
 Yo te saludo de entusiasmo lleno ; 
 
 Y henchido de placer y de esperanza, 
 Mi corazon palpita dentro el seno 
 Con tan fuerte latido, 
 
 Que el pecho ardiente a respirar no alcanza. 
 
 La suave y frcsca brisa, 
 
 Del alto Sol los claros resplandores, 
 
 El aire enrarecido, 
 
 De los Cielos la placida sonrisa, 
 
 Y el balsamico aliento de las ilores, 
 Saludante conmigo. 
 Celebrando del mode mas plausible 
 Tu advenimiento amigo 
 AmiPatria doliente y compasible, 
 Llenala de tu honor y tu grandeza, 
 
 Y abate a su adversario la cabeza." 
 
CHAPTEE IX. 
 
 THE CITY OF LEON — ORIGINALLY BUILT ON THE SnORES OF LAKE MANAGUA — 
 CAUSE OF ITS REMOVAL — ITS PRESENT SITE — DWELLINGS OF ITS INHABITANTS — 
 
 STYLE OF BUILDING DEVASTATION OF THE CIVIL WARS — PUBLIC BUILDINGS — 
 
 THE GREAT CATHEDRAL — ITS STYLE OF ARCHITECTURE J INTERIOR ] MAGNIFI- 
 CENT VIEW FROM THE ROOF — THE " CUARTO DE LOS OBISPOS," OR GALLERY OF 
 
 THE BISHOPS THE UNIVERSITY THE BISHOP'S PALACE " CASA DEL GOBIER- 
 
 NO" " CUARTEL GENERAL" THE CHURCHES OF LA MERCED, CALVARIO, 
 
 RECOLECCION HOSPITAL OF SAN JUAN DE DIOS — STONE BRIDGE INDIAN 
 
 MUNICIPALITY OF SUBTIABA — POPULATION OF LEON PREDOMINANCE OF INDIAN 
 
 POPULATION — DISTINCTION OF STOCKS — MIXED RACES SOCIETY OF LEON — 
 
 THE FEMALES) THEIR DRESS — SOCIAL GATHERINGS J THE "tERTULIA" HOW 
 
 TO " BREAK THE ICE" AND OPEN A BALL NATIVE DANCES — PERSONAL CLEAN- 
 LINESS OF THE PEOPLE — GENERAL TEMPERANCE " AGUARDIENTE " AND 
 
 " ITALIA " FOOD TOE TORTILLA FRIJOLES — PLANTAINS TOE MARKETS — 
 
 PRIMITIVE CURRENCY MEALS — COFFEE, CHOCOLATE, AND " TISTE" DULCES — 
 
 TRADE OF LEON. 
 
 The city of Leon is situated in latitude 12° 25' north, and 
 longitude 86° 57' west. As I have elsewhere mentioned, it 
 was founded in 1523, by Hernandez de Cordova, the con- 
 queror of the country and the founder of Granada. Its 
 original site was at the head of the western bay of Lake 
 Managua, near the base of the great volcano of Momotombo, 
 at a place now called Moabita, or, as it is spelled in the 
 early chronicles, Ymbita, where its ruins still exist, over- 
 grown by trees undistinguishable from those of the surround- 
 ing forests. This site was abandoned in the year 1010, for 
 that now occupied by the city, which was then the seat of a 
 large Indian town called Subtiaba. There is a tradition that 
 a curse was pronounced upon the old town by the Pope, 
 33 
 
258 
 
 NIC ARAGU A — NARRATI VE. 
 
 when lie heard of the murder there, in 1549, by Hernando 
 de Contreras, of Antonio de Valdivieso, third bishop of 
 Nicaragua, who opposed the cruelty and oppression towards 
 the Indians practised by Contreras, and who, for this reason, 
 fell under his anger. In consequence of this curse, it is said, 
 the city was visited by a succession of calamities, which be- 
 came insupportable ; and the inhabitants, driven to despair, 
 finally, on the 2d of January, 1610, after a solemn fast, with 
 the flag of Spain and the officers of the municipality at their 
 head, marched to the site now occupied by the city, and 
 there proceeded to lay out a new town. The cruel and 
 sacrilegious deed of Contreras is, even yet, mentioned with 
 horror ; and many of the people believe that the stains of the 
 blood of the bishop, who fled to the church, and died of his 
 wounds at the foot of the altar, are yet visible upon its ruined 
 walls, a lasting evidence of God's displeasure. 
 
 In common with Granada, Leon suffered from the attacks 
 of the pirates, during their predominance in the South Sea. 
 In 1685, a party of English freebooters, amongst them the 
 celebrated Dampier, landed in the Estero Dona Paula, and 
 advancing rapidly upon the city, surprised and captured it, 
 notwithstanding the brave resistance of the little garrison of 
 fifty men. They sacked the entire city, and burnt the cathe- 
 dral, the convent of La Merced, the hospital, and many of 
 the principal houses. 
 
 Leon is situated in the midst of the great plain of the same 
 name, which I have described, about midway between the 
 lake and ocean. The choice of position seems to have been 
 determined by the same considerations which influenced the 
 Indians in selecting it for one of their own towns, viz. : the 
 proximity of water. Upon both sides of the city arc deep 
 ravines, in which are a multitude of springs of pure water, 
 forming perennial streams of considerable size, which unite at 
 the distance of half a mile from the city. From these 
 the supply of water for the town is chiefly obtained. In later 
 
THE CITY OF LEON. 
 
 259 
 
 times many wells have been sunk, but they require to be of 
 great depth — from one hundred and twenty to two hundred 
 feet — and the water is not esteemed to be as good as that from 
 the ravines. 
 
 Like all other cities under the tropics, Leon covers a large 
 area of ground. It is regularly laid out, with squares or 
 plazas, at intervals, in each ecclesiastical or municipal district. 
 The houses, like those of Granada, are built of adobes, and 
 are rarely of more than one story. Each one encloses a spa- 
 cious patio or courtyard, filled with fruit or shade trees. 
 Sometimes the building has an inner or back court for the 
 domestic animals, while that immediately connected with the 
 dwelling is ornamented with shrubbery and flowers, and sur- 
 rounded on all sides by a broad corridor. This style of 
 building, which is well adapted to the climate, and rendered 
 necessary in a country where earthquakes are so frequent, 
 admits of very little architectural display. The builder has 
 no opportunity of exhibiting his taste or skill, except in the 
 " puerta" or " zaguan" — portal, or principal entrance, — and in 
 the elaboration of the balconied windows. These portals are 
 often high and imposing, and profusely and tastefully orna- 
 mented. Some are copies of the Moresque arches so common 
 in Spain, and are loaded with ornaments peculiar to that 
 style of architecture. Others arc of the severer Grecian 
 styles, and others of orders utterly indescribable, and emi- 
 nently original. Above these arches the old aristocracy 
 often placed their arms; those of a military turn carved 
 groups of armor, and those piously inclined a prayer or a 
 passage from the Bible. 
 
 Formerly, very few of the buildings had more than two 
 or three openings on the street, but of late years windows 
 are bec< >ming more numerous. These windows are broad and 
 high, projecting two or three feet, and are guarded by iron 
 balconies. Within the balconies are seats, which in the 
 evening are occupied by the sciloras, who here receive their 
 
260 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 visitors, and return the salutations of their passing friends. 
 The gallant saunters from one to the other, and pays his 
 devoirs without entering; an easy custom, which, in the 
 early evening, gives the streets an air of great gayety and 
 cheerfulness. He often carries his guitar with him, and 
 sings a song when conversation flags. Sometimes the 
 mounted cavalier reins in his steed before the balcony, to 
 pay his compliments to the fair occupants, — stealthily prick- 
 ing the animal with his spurs, to show off his skill in man- 
 aging him, and to impress the senoras with admiration for 
 his spirit. They are quite up to these little tricks in Nica- 
 ragua, as well as in other countries. 
 
 The interiors of the dwellings of the better classes convey 
 an idea of great comfort, in a country where room and ven- 
 tilation become necessary conditions of existence. The prin- 
 cipal apartments, with rare exceptions, open upon the corri- 
 dor, and are also connected by inner doors. In the main 
 body of the building is the grand sala, or what we would 
 call a parlor, used only for receptions, or as a sitting-room 
 for the ladies. On either side are the private rooms of the 
 families, while the wings are appropriated for sleeping apart- 
 ments, to the servants, and for stores. Tory few are ceiled, 
 but are open to the roof, allowing a free circulation of air 
 between the tiles. The floors are paved with large square 
 tiles or bricks, occasionally with marble, and are usually 
 kept well watered. And as the windows are never glazed, 
 every passing breeze enters freely, and the ventilation is 
 made perfect. Meals are taken in the corridor, on the side 
 most shaded from the sun ; and here hammocks are swung 
 for those who choose to occupy them. The walls, both of 
 the corridors and inner rooms, are sometimes painted, in 
 imitation of marble or of hangings; but owing to the lack of 
 skill on the part of the artists, the effect is not usually good. 
 The accompanying ground-plan will convey an idea of the 
 arrangement of the various parts of a Central American 
 
HOUSES IN LEON. 
 
 261 
 
 dwelling, from which the details may be discovered without 
 further explanation. I need only repeat that, however at 
 variance with established rules of architecture in other coun- 
 tries, they are probably better adapted to the climate and 
 country than edifices of a more pretending character. 
 
 PLAN OF A D W E L L I N G - U U S E IN LEON. 
 
 In Leon, as in Granada, the dwellings on the outskirts of the 
 city are simple cane structures, covered with thatch, but some- 
 times plastered with mud and roofed with tiles. And here, 
 as in all the other towns, they are embowered in trees, and 
 surrounded with cactus fences. The accompanying engrav- 
 ing of a hut in the barrio of Saragossa, may be taken as a 
 type of all the others. 
 
 The streets in the central part of the city are paved. 
 The object principally had in view is the prevention of dust, 
 which, towards the close of the dry season, is almost unen- 
 durable in the unpaved parts of the town. 
 
 Perhaps no city in America has suffered more from war 
 than Leon. During the contest between the aristocrats and 
 
262 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 liberals which followed the declaration of independence, a 
 large part, embracing the richest and best built portions, was 
 destroyed by fire. Over one thousand buildings were burned 
 in a single night. The great cathedral is surrounded by en- 
 tire squares of ruins of what were once palaces. The lofty 
 and elaborate archways, by which they were entered, still in- 
 dicate their original magnificence. Entire streets, now almost 
 deserted, are lined with the remains of large and beautiful 
 edifices, destroyed in the civil wars. Within their abandoned 
 courts stand rude cane huts, — as if in mockery of their 
 former state. Leon was formerly one of the best built cities 
 in all Spanish America. "It is," says the old traveller, 
 Gage, writing in 1665, "very curiously built; for the chief 
 delight of the inhabitants consists in their houses, in the 
 pleasure of the country adjoining, and in the abundance of 
 all things for the life of man. They are content,' 1 he adds, 
 " with fine gardens, with the variety of singing birds and 
 parrots, with plenty of fish and flesh, with gay houses, and 
 so lead a delicious, lazy, and idle life, not aspiring much to 
 trade and traffic, although they have the lake and ocean near 
 them. The gentlemen of Leon are almost as gay and fan- 
 tastical as those of Chiapas ; and it is especially from the 
 pleasure of this city that the province of Nicaragua is called 
 Mahomet's Paradise." 1 
 
 The public buildings of Leon are among the finest in all 
 
 1 The pirate, Dampier, in giving an account of the capture and burn- 
 ing of Leon by himself and his associates, says: 
 
 " Our countryman, Mr. Gage, who travelled in these parts, recommends 
 Leon as the pleasantest place in all America, and calls it the Paradise of 
 the Indies. Indeed, if we consider the advantages of its situation, we may 
 find it surpassing most places for health and pleasure in America ; for the 
 country about it is of a sandy soil, which soon drinks up all the rain 
 which falls. It is encompassed with savannas, so that they have the ben- 
 efit of the breezes which come from any quarter ; all of which makes it 
 a very healthy place." — Dampier s Voyage round the World, vol. i. p. 218. 
 
THE GREAT CATHEDRAL. 
 
 263 
 
 Central America. Indeed, the great cathedral of St. Peter 
 may perhaps be regarded as second to no similar structure in 
 any of the Spanish American States. It was finished in 1743, 
 having occupied thirty-seven years in building. The cost is 
 said to have been five millions of dollars, but this seems to be 
 an exaggeration. It covers an entire square, and its front ex- 
 tends the whole width of the grand plaza. It is constructed 
 of cut stone, and is one firm mass of masonry. The roof is 
 composed of massive arches, and has all the solidity of a rock. 
 Nothing can better illustrate its strength, than the fact that it 
 lias withstood the storms and earthquakes of more than a 
 century ; and, with the exception of one of the towers, which 
 during my residence in the country was struck by lightning, 
 and cracked from top to bottom, it is now nearly as perfect as 
 it came from the hands of its builders. Yet it has often been 
 converted into a fortress, and has sustained more than one 
 cannonade and bombardment from besieging forces. In 1823, 
 it is said, no less than thirty pieces of artillery were planted 
 on its roof. On its most exposed side, towards the east, there 
 is hardly a square inch of its walls which is not indented with 
 shot. 
 
 Its ornaments are of stucco, and are simple and chaste. 
 Viewed from an eminence, the entire structure is very impos- 
 ing, but seen from the plaza, it appears low in proportion to its 
 width. The interior is not unworthy of the exterior ; but is 
 comparatively bare of ornament. At the head of the principal 
 aisle, beneath a lofty, spacious dome, is the great altar, com- 
 posed of silver, elaborately chased. The side chapels are not 
 remarkable for their richness or beauty. For, in the civil 
 commotions of the country the churches have not escaped 
 the rapacity of the soldiery. The cathedral was once pos- 
 sessed of extraordinary wealth, and the costliness and variety 
 of its ornaments were a proverb in Spain itself ; but now it 
 has little to boast beyond its massive proportions and archi- 
 tectural design. 
 
264 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 I visited it shortly after my arrival, under the guidance of 
 one of the canonigos, who was conscientious in pointing out 
 to me everything worthy of notice. What most interested 
 me, however, was a small room, in which were contained all 
 the portraits of the bishops, commencing with Zuniga. 
 They were forty-four in number, and displayed every variety 
 of feature and complexion. The dark skins and black hair of 
 some of the bishops showed that native or Indian blood had 
 been no bar to ecclesiastical preferment, and contrasted 
 strongly with the fair complexions of others of European 
 birth. Most had an expression of great austerity ; types of 
 rigorous zealots, who looked as if every sentiment and feeling 
 of humanity had been rudely rooted from their hearts ; while 
 others wore more cheerful faces, and a few, I am sure, had 
 been right jolly old fellows in their day, not averse to the 
 grape, nor wholly indifferent to the smiles of beauty. 
 
 .Both the facade and rear of the cathedral were once orna- 
 mented with the royal arms of Spain, but these were removed 
 in the first fervor of republican zeal, and their places yet 
 remain blanks, — emblematic of a country which has got rid 
 of one government, without having as yet fully succeeded in 
 establishing another in its place. 
 
 One of the finest views in the world is commanded from 
 the roof of the cathedral ; and standing here, I saw for the 
 first time the waters of the Pacific, a rim of silver on the 
 edge of the western horizon. In the east bristled the nine 
 volcanoes of the Marabios, which I have already mentioned, 
 their outlines sharply defined against the sky, and in their 
 regularity of outline emulating the symmetry of the pyra- 
 mids. From this position alone is a good view to be obtained 
 of the city, which, seen from one side, or from a distance, 
 presents only a monotonous succession of tiled roofs, half- 
 bnried amongst the trees, and only relieved by the white 
 walls of the churches. 
 
 To the left of the cathedral, and separated only by the 
 
o 
 a 
 
 < 
 
 a 
 < 
 
 LU 
 
 az 
 
 U_! 
 
PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 
 
 265 
 
 street, is the a Palacio del Obispo," the Episcopal Palace. It 
 was described as follows, in 1751, by the then Bishop of 
 Nicaragua, Senor Don Pedro Augustin Morel de Sta. Cruz, 
 and has changed but little since. 
 
 ' ; The Episcopal Palace is situated at the corner of the principal plaza, 
 contiguous to the Sagrario; it is built of adobes and tiles, with two bal- 
 conies, and is distinguished by a certain air of respectability. It is en- 
 tered by a portico of good proportions, and has not less than fourteen 
 apartments, furnished and ornamented with pictures, canopies, curtains, 
 tables, silk beds, and many well-carved chairs. The principal sala and 
 the oratorio are the largest; the others are proportioned to their purposes. 
 They all open upon a broad piazza, running entirely around the court, 
 within which is a garden, Avith many trees and flowers, and a fountain 
 very beautiful and refreshing to the sight. Back of the building is an- 
 other square for the servants, stables, etc. In short, nothing is wanted 
 to make it a suitable habitation for the prelate, except a revenue suffi- 
 cient to enable him to keep up a style commensurate to the edifice." 
 
 Adjoining the palace of the Bishop, is the Tridentine Col- 
 lege of St. Eamon, established in 1675. This institution 
 was once very flourishing, and had numerous students, with 
 professorships of law and medicine. It has, however, shared 
 in the general decadence of the country, and has now but 
 little more than a nominal existence. Efforts have lately 
 been made to revive it upon a new foundation ; and with an 
 improvement in the country at large, there is no doubt it 
 may regain something of its former position. 
 
 The government house, which occupies the northern side 
 of the grand plaza, is distinguished for nothing except that 
 it is somewhat more lofty than its neighbors, and has a raised 
 corridor extending along its entire front. Opposite to this 
 is the Cuartel General, or head-quarters of the regular forces 
 of the government, with a guard of soldiers constantly on 
 d uty ; for, in case of disturbance, this is the first place to be 
 attacked, inasmuch as it is the general depository of the arms 
 of the State. 
 
 34 
 
266 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 The churches of La Merced, the Eecoleccion, and Calvario, 
 are remarkable for their size and their fine facades. The 
 front of the latter is ornamented with panels containing 
 Scriptural groups, admirably executed in bas-relief, and 
 with niches containing statues of the saints. It has suffered 
 much from shot, having been twice occupied by besieging 
 forces, while the superior position of the cathedral was in 
 possession of the other party. The Merced has also suffered 
 from the same cause, but in a loss degree. It contains some 
 fine paintings, and its principal altar is an elaborate and very 
 beautiful piece of composition. A convent was once attached 
 to this church, as also 1o the church of the Eecoleccion, and 
 to that of San Juan de Dios. But these have been abolished ; 
 and the convent buildings of the Merced, at the time of my 
 arrival, were used as cavalry barracks, while those of San 
 Juan de Dios had been converted into a hospital. Besides 
 the churches which I have named, there are ten or twelve 
 others, but less in size, and of more moderate pretensions. 
 And as each of these has a chime of bells, and nearly every 
 day is dedicated to some saint, in whose honor it is essential 
 to ring them all, a continual clangor is kept up, which, until 
 the stranger becomes habituated to it, or is deafened outright, 
 is excessively annoying. 
 
 When to this list I have added the stone bridge across 
 the ravine to the south of the city, connecting with the 
 barrio de Guadelupe, I have finished the architectural nota- 
 bilities of Leon. Tins bridge was never fully completed, 
 but was boldly projected, and the arches spanning the stream 
 are models of symmetry and good workmanship. 
 
 The Indian pueblo of Subtiaba is really part of the city 
 of Loon, although constituting a distinct municipality. It 
 has also its grand plaza, and separate public buildings. Its 
 great church is second in size to no other in Nicaragua, ex- 
 cept the cathedral of Leon. The facade is quaint, with 
 numerous niches filled with figures of grim old saints. It is 
 
POPULATION OF LEON. 
 
 267 
 
 substantially built, and has a very high antiquity. " The 
 Parroquial of Subtiaba," said the old Bishop, Augustin Morel, 
 writing of this church in the year 1751, "is the largest and 
 most beautiful in the Bishopric. The principal and side 
 chapels, and baptistery, are arched, and high and ample. 
 The body of the church consists of three naves ; the columns 
 are of cedar, with gilt capitals. It has eight altars, four 
 chapels, a neat sacristy, and is admirably decorated. Its 
 towers are well proportioned, and its facade imposing and 
 tasteful, and altogether the edifice is fit for a cathedral." 
 
 Subtiaba has suffered no less than Leon from intestine 
 wars, and is but a shadow of what it once was, when it could 
 muster two thousand fighting men in its plaza at a moment's 
 warning. 
 
 It is difficult to form a correct estimate of the population 
 of Leon. The city is spread over so wide a space, and so 
 involved amongst trees that, even after a three months' 
 residence, I found myself constantly discovering new and 
 secluded portions, of the existence of which I was before 
 ignorant. And although at first I thought twenty thousand 
 an over estimate, I ultimately came to regard the number set 
 down in the census attempted in 1847, viz: thirty thousand, 
 as probably nearer the truth. In this calculation I include 
 the Indian municipality of Subtiaba, which is generally, but 
 erroneously supposed to be a town separate from Leon. 
 
 Here, as everywhere else in Nicaragua, the Indian and 
 mixed population greatly predominates, and the pure whites 
 constitute scarcely one-tenth of the whole number. The 
 general complexion is however considerably lighter than at 
 Granada, but not so clear as at Managua and some of the 
 smaller towns. An infusion of Indian blood is easily to be 
 detected in a large proportion of those who claim to be of 
 pure Spanish descent. It displays itself less in the color of 
 the skin than in a certain quickness of the eye, which is 
 a much more expressive feature in those crossed with the 
 
268 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 Indians than in either of the original stocks. In respect of 
 physique, leaving color out of the question, there are probably 
 no handsomer men in the world than some of the Sambos, 
 or offspring of Indian and negro parents. They are of course 
 darker than the Indian, but taller and better developed. It 
 should however be observed that the negroes of Nicaragua 
 differ very widely in appearance from those of the United 
 States. They must have been derived from an entirely dif- 
 ferent portion of the African continent. They have, in gen- 
 eral, aquiline noses, small mouths, and thin lips, — in fact, 
 with the exception of the crisp hair and dark skin, they have 
 few of the features which, with us, are regarded as peculiar 
 and universal in the negro race. 
 
 The fusion between all portions of the population of Nica- 
 ragua has been so complete, that notwithstanding the diver- 
 sity of races, distinctions of caste are hardly recognized. The 
 whites, in their social intercourse, maintain a certain degree 
 of exclusion, but in all other relations the completest equality 
 prevails. This would not probably be the case if the white 
 population was proportionably greater, and possessed the 
 physical power to keep up the distinctions which naturally 
 separate the superior and inferior families of men. With a 
 full consciousness of their numerical inferiority, their policy 
 is plainly that of concession ; and however repugnant it may 
 have been originally to their pride, it has now come to be 
 regarded as a matter of course, and is submitted to with a 
 good grace. 
 
 A few days in Leon sufficed to show me that, in the tone 
 of its society, and the manners of its people, it had more of 
 the metropolitan character than Granada. And although 
 the proportion of its inhabitants who laid claim to what is 
 called "position," was even here comparatively small, and 
 not at all rigid in its adherence to the conventionalities of 
 the larger cities of Mexico, South America, and our own 
 country ; yet, in the essential respects of hospitality, kind- 
 
SOCIETY IX LEON'. 
 
 269 
 
 aess, and courtesy, I found it entitled to a position second to 
 do other community. The women are far from being highly 
 educated, but are simple and unaffected in their manners, and 
 possessed of great quickness of apprehension, and a readiness 
 in good-natured repartee, which compensates, to a certain 
 extent, for their deficiency in general information. 
 
 The condition of the country for many years has been 
 such as to afford few opportunities for the cultivation of those 
 accomplishments which are indispensable accessories of re- 
 fined society ; and we are therefore, not justified in subject- 
 ing the people of Leon, or of any other city of Central Ame- 
 rica, to the test of our standards. I can conceive of nothing- 
 more painful, or more calculated to awaken the interest of 
 the visitor from abroad, than the spectacle of a people, with 
 really high aspirations and capabilities, borne down by the 
 force of opposing circumstances, conscious of its own condi- 
 tion, but almost despairing of improving it. 
 
 In dress the women of Leon have the same fashions with 
 those of Granada, but the European styles are less common, 
 owing to the circumstance that there are fewer foreign resi- 
 dents to infect the popular taste. They have an equal fondness 
 lor the cigarito ; and in the street are not less proud of display- 
 ing a little foot and a satin slipper. As everywhere else in 
 the world they are very attentive in their devotions, but be- 
 yond their daily visit to the churches, rarely go out of doors, 
 except it is in the early evening, when visits are paid inform- 
 ally. If chance brings together a sufficient number, a " ter- 
 t'dia" or dance, is often improvised. Set parties or balls are 
 of rare occurrence, and are generally given only on public 
 occasions, and then with great state and ceremony. 
 
 We were witnesses of a tertulia at our own house, the 
 second evening after our arrival. A dozen sefioras casually 
 found themselves together, a dance was proposed by the gal- 
 lants loitering at the balconies, and the proposition meeting 
 with favor, they at once dispersed to bring in recruits and 
 
270 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 the " musicos." In an hour the grand sala was filled. The 
 females as they came in were all ranged on one side of the 
 room, and the males on the other. This looked rather stiff, 
 and I began to fear that a tertulia was no great matter after 
 all. Directly, however, a single couple took the floor ; the 
 music struck up, and as they moved down the room, the 
 measure brought the lady first on one side, and then on the 
 other. As she passed she alternately tapped a senor and 
 senora on the shoulder with her fan, thus arbitrarily deter- 
 mining the partners, who were obliged at once to join in the 
 dance. In this manner the whole party was brought to its 
 feet, nolens volens, — and such I found was a frequent mode of 
 opening the tertulia. After the first set is over, the ice once 
 broken, and the excitement up, the gallants are permitted to 
 exercise a choice. I thought the practice a good one, obvi- 
 ating a great deal of awkward diplomacy at the outset, and 
 putting every one very speedily at their ease. As the even- 
 ing progressed the party augmented, and before ten o'clock 
 we had got together the elite of Leon. All joined heartily 
 in the spirit of the affair, and when the bell of the cathedral 
 tolled eleven, I think I never saw a more animated assem- 
 blage. The polka and the waltz, as also the bolero, and 
 other well known Spanish dances, were all danced gracefully 
 and with spirit ; and besides these, after much persuasion, 
 we had an Indian dance, a singular affair, slow and compli- 
 cated, and which left upon my mind a distinct impression 
 that it was religious in its origin. After the dancing, we had 
 music, but beyond the national air, which was given with 
 force and spirit, I cannot say much for the singing. 
 
 During the whole evening, the windows were festooned 
 with urchins, and the doors blockaded by spectators, who 
 when they were particularly pleased, applauded tumultu- 
 ously. as if the whole affair had been got up for their special 
 entertainment. The police would have driven them off, but 
 I won an enduring j)opularity by interceding in their behalf, 
 
MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. 
 
 271 
 
 and they were consequently permitted to remain. Upon 
 the occasions of the more formal balls subsequently given, 
 soldiers were stationed at every entrance, and the crowd kept 
 at a distance. 
 
 Amongst the lower classes, fandangoes and other charac- 
 teristic dances are frequent, and are sufficiently uproarious 
 and promiscuous. For obvious reasons, I never witnessed 
 any of these in the city, although I stumbled upon them 
 occasionally in the villages, during my excursions in the 
 country. 
 
 The people of Nicaragua are generally scrupulously clean 
 in their persons, except when travelling or ill, and then the 
 touch of water is prohibited. But beyond the grand sala. 
 and the apartments appropriated to visitors, their houses are 
 frequently very far from being patterns of neatness. I have 
 seen sleeping apartments, occupied by families of the first 
 respectability, which certainly had not been swept for weeks. 
 not to say months. Yet the beds in these rooms were clean 
 and neat — the more so perhaps from the contrast. These 
 remarks are less applicable to Granada than Leon, for in the 
 former city the example of the foreign residents has worked 
 a partial reformation amongst the native housekeepers. 
 
 The Spanish people, in all parts of the world, are temper- 
 ate in their habits. Those of Nicaragua in this respect do 
 no discredit to their progenitors. Strong liquors are little 
 used except amongst the lower orders of the population ; and 
 even here excess is less common than with us. The sale of 
 brandy and the "aguardiente,"' or native rum, is a govern- 
 ment monopoly, and is confined to the " estancos," or licensed 
 establishments, where it pays a high duty to the State. I do 
 not remember to have seen a single respectable citizen drunk 
 during the whole of my resi deuce in the country. Yet a 
 bottle of " cogniac" is usually offered to the stranger, when- 
 ever he pays a visit. A considerable quantity of sweet or 
 Spanish wines, are used in the principal towns, but the 
 
272 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 lighter French wines have the largest consumption. There 
 is a delicious kind of liqueur made from the Muscatel grape, 
 called "Italia," cr "Pisco," which is brought from Peru. It 
 is, however, produced in small quantities, upon I believe 
 a single estate, and is consequently introduced in Nicaragua 
 to a very limited extent. Should it ever become generally 
 known to the people of the United States, it would, no doubt, 
 create for itself a large demand. But whether it can be pro- 
 duced in sufficient quantities to supply a considerable market, 
 is a point upon which I am ignorant. 
 
 In their food, the Nicaragua us are also exceedingly simple. 
 Tortillas and frijoles are the standard dishes. The first are 
 composed of maize, and if well made are really palatable. 
 
 ANCIENT METLATL, OR GRINDING STONE. 
 
 Fresh and unblemished maize on the ear is always selected. 
 It is shelled, soaked in alkali to remove the hull, and then 
 carefully and repeatedly washed in cold water. It is after- 
 wards placed on a metlatl, or grinding stone, and reduced to 
 the extremest fineness. A very little cheese is ground with 
 it, to give it consistency. A roll is then taken in the hands, 
 beaten into aflat cake, and placed on an earthen pan, already 
 heated upon the fire. When sufficiently clone upon one side. 
 
TORTILLAS AND FRIJOLES. 
 
 273 
 
 it is adroitly turned on the other, and is finally served hot 
 and crisp at the table. I " cottoned" to the tortilla from the 
 start, and always preferred it to the native bread, which 
 although light and fair to the eye, is invariably spoiled by 
 sweetening. The tortilla is an aboriginal invention; and 
 the foregoing engraving represents an ancient metlatl or 
 grinding stone which was dug up during my residence in 
 Leon. The form is unchanged to this day, although few are 
 as elaborately ornamented as that here introduced, which is a 
 favorable specimen of aboriginal carving. 
 
 It will be observed that this stone is curiously ornamented 
 with greeques, which are shown more distinctly in the sub- 
 joined enlarged sketches of the upper and lower extremities 
 of the metlatl (a. b.) 
 
 UKNAMENTS OF THE METLATL. 
 
 Frijoles, in plain English, are baked beans ; but the beans 
 are quite of a different flavor from those in use in more 
 northern latitudes. They are small, white, black, or brown 
 in color, and indigenous in the country. They are not usual- 
 ly relished at first, but a taste for them is gradually acquired, 
 and a meal without frijoles finally comes to lack an essential 
 ingredient. The man who cannot "go" the frijoles had bet- 
 ter keep away from Central America. For the weary travel- 
 ler, in soliciting the bill of fare at the Indian hut where, four 
 35 
 
274 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 times out of five, he is obliged to stop for the night, has gen- 
 erally this brief catalogue, " hay tortillas, frijoles, frijolitos, 
 frijolitos fritos, y huevos" — " tortillas, beans, little beans, little 
 baked beans, and eggs !" 
 
 Excellent beef and pork are to be obtained, at cheap rates, 
 in all the principal towns, and poultry is abundant. A pair 
 of chickens costs from a quartillo to a medio, — i. e. from three 
 to six cents. ^Next to the tortillas and frijoles, however, the 
 chief articles of consumption are rice, plantains, and a kind 
 of cheese, which is supplied in great quantities from the 
 " haciendas de las vacas," or cattle estates. The plantains 
 are cooked in many ways, — boiled, fried, and roasted, — and 
 are singly capable of sustaining life. And when I add that, 
 in many parts of the state, they may be had for the asking, 
 and that everywhere six cents worth will sustain a small 
 family for a week, it will be understood that the incentives 
 to labor cannot be very strong, and that the poorest wretch 
 need not go hungry. 
 
 The markets of Leon display the greatest profusion of 
 fruits and vegetables, of which it would be almost impossible 
 to give a complete list. Water and musk melons, papayas, 
 pine apples, oranges, mamays, nisperos, pomegranates, ma- 
 raiions, jocotes, yucas, plantains, bananas, beans, maize, and 
 occasionally small potatoes but little larger than bullets, 
 brought in bales from the highlands of Costa Rica and Hon- 
 duras, and sold by the pound. And as the smallest coin in 
 the country is a quartillo, or three cents, which would pur- 
 chase more of almost any of these articles than most families 
 would require at one time, change is made in the aboriginal 
 coin of the country, namely cacao nuts, of which four arc 
 about equivalent in value to one cent of our currency. 
 
 But two meals a -day are eaten by the inhabitants at large. 
 A cup of coffee or chocolate is served at the bedside, or im- 
 mediately upon rising in the morning. Breakfast follows at 
 nine or ten o'clock in the forenoon, and dinner at three or 
 
TISTE, DULCES, ETC. 
 
 275 
 
 four in the afternoon. Tea is only drunk by foreigners, and 
 by them to a very limited extent. It is not to be found 
 therefore in any of the shops. A cup of chocolate, or more 
 frequently a cup of tiste (parched corn ground with chocolate 
 and sugar and mixed with water), passed unceremoniously 
 in the evening, supplies its place, and is not an unacceptable 
 substitute. It should be mentioned, however, that large 
 quantities of " dulces," literally "sweets" or sweetmeats are 
 eaten between meals, especially by the women. The Spanish 
 taste for "dulces" long ago passed into a proverb, but it 
 rather surpasses itself in Nicaragua, The venders of " dul- 
 ces," generally bright Indian girls, gaily dressed, and bearing 
 a tray, covered Avith the purest white napkins, and tempt- 
 ingly spread, upon their heads, pass daily from house to 
 house; and it is sometimes difficult, and always ungallant to 
 refuse purchasing something, however trifling, from their 
 stock. The "mil gracias Senor!" in the silverest of voices, 
 is always worth the money, and so one gets the " dulces " 
 gratis. They sometimes, however, trespassed a little upon 
 my good nature, and carried off more of my loose change 
 than was proper, considering that, having a reasonable regard 
 for my stomach, I never ate any of their dyspeptic com- 
 pounds. 
 
 Leon has little trade beyond the supply of its local wants. 
 The principal import and export business for this portion of 
 the state is done in the large and flourishing town of Chinan- 
 dega, situated within two leagues of the port of Eealejo. Its 
 shops are nevertheless well supplied, and it has some wealthy 
 merchants. Its principal inhabitants, however, are "propie- 
 tarios," owners of large estates which are carried on through 
 agents. Attempts have recently been made to augment the 
 commercial importance of Leon by opening a shorter and 
 direct communication with Realejo; but its interior position 
 will always prove a bar to its progress in this respect. Chi- 
 nandega has already a start, which it will doubtless keep, 
 
276 
 
 NICARAI4 r A — NARRATIVE. 
 
 unless a town, more favorably situated nearer the port, 
 should spring up under the requirements of commerce. 
 
 Since the above was written, a new town called " Corinth," 
 lias been laid out on the south shore of the harbor of Realejo. 
 in the direction of Leon, which will greatly benefit, the latter 
 city. 
 
 XI A C II K T K A XI) T L K n O . 
 
CHAPTEK X. 
 
 THE VICINITY OF LEON THE BISHOP'S BATHS — FUENTE DE AXUSCO <: CERRO 
 
 DE LOS AMERICANOS" A MILITARY BALL AND CIVIC DINNER — GEN. GUER- 
 RERO — OFFICIAL VISIT FROM THE INDIAN MUNICIPALITY OF SUBTIABA 
 
 SIMON ROQUE A SECRET — ADDRESS AND REPLY — VISIT RETURNED 
 
 THE CABILDO — AN EMPTY TREASURY — " SUBTIABA, LEAL Y FIEl" ROYAL 
 
 CEDULAS — FORMING A VOCABULARY " UNA DECIMa" THE INDIANS OF 
 
 NICARAGUA J STATURE J COMPLEXION ; DISPOSITION ] BRAVERY J INDUSTRY J 
 SKILL IN THE ARTS — MANUFACTURE OF COTTON PRIMITIVE MODE OF SPIN- 
 NING — TYRIAN PURPLE PETATES AND HAMMOCKS — POTTERY " AGUACALES," 
 
 AND " JICARAS,": — COSTUME ORNAMENTS — ABORIGINAL INSTITUTIONS THE 
 
 CONQUEST OF NICARAGUA ENORMITIES PRACTISED TOWARDS THE INDIANS 
 
 PRESENT CONDITION OF THE INDIANS THE SEQUEL OF SOMOZa's INSURREC- 
 TION — BATTLES OF THE OBRAJE AND SAN JORGE CAPTURE AND EXECUTION 
 
 OF SOMOZA MODERATE POLICY OF THE GOVERNMENT — RETURN OF GEN. 
 
 MUNOZ — MEDALS FESTIVAL OF PEACE NOVEL PROCESSION A BLACK SAINT. 
 
 The country adjacent to Leon is very fine, and the " paseos" 
 or rides in the vicinity, although lacking an important 
 element of beauty, the proximity of water, are not without 
 variety and interest. My first expedition on horseback was 
 to a place called the Bishop's Baths. We rode through the 
 barrio de San Juan, where the carreleros most do congregate, 
 to the edge of the northern ravine. Here we found a path 
 literally shut in with cactuses and trees covered with vines, 
 which led to the ruins of an ancient gateway, beyond which 
 had once been the suburban seat of the Bishops of Nicaragua. 
 It was a beautiful spot; the ground had been artificially 
 smoothed, and beneath the large trees which shadowed over 
 it, were the remains of stone seats, and of pedestals which 
 had once sustained crosses and the statues of the saints. In 
 
278 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 front of where the house had stood, before its destruction 
 during the troubles of the revolutionary period, there was 
 an abrupt slope to the stream at the bottom of the ravine. 
 This slope had formerly been terraced, and descended by a 
 winding way. The baths were of stone, and although now 
 in ruins, still gave evidences of the taste and luxury which 
 had led to their construction. A couple of women, naked 
 with the exception of a single cloth around their loins, were 
 washing in the principal bath, but they vacated it tempora- 
 rily at our request, and we took possession. The seclusion 
 of the place, the limpid purity of the water, and the deep 
 shade in which everything was shrouded, enchanted me with 
 the spot, and I could not help thinking that it must have 
 been selected by one of the rosiest and jolliest of the old 
 bishops whose portraits had tipped me a friendly wink from 
 the walls of the heavy room where they were imprisoned in 
 the cathedral. But I afterwards found that this was but one 
 only of a thousand equally beautiful spots in the neighbor- 
 hood of the city. That, however, to which my memory 
 reverts most frequently, is the "fuente de Axusco," distant 
 about two miles to the southward of the town. It is a broad 
 pool, at the bottom of a ravine, shut in by steep banks on 
 every side, and reached by a single narrow path. The water 
 is tepid, and bursts, pure as crystal, in a large volume from 
 beneath the rocks. It is literally arched over with trees, and 
 curtained in with vines. This place was my favorite resort 
 during the whole of my residence in the country. I rose at 
 early dawn, despatched a cup of coffee, and mounting my 
 horse, generally reached the place just as the sun began to 
 tinge the summit of the distant volcanoes. The path lay 
 through fields covered with trees and bushes, spangled all 
 over with flowers, and glittering with dew-drops. The cool, 
 bracing morning air, the quick action of the horse, and the 
 grateful plunge into the quiet pool, — I think I never enjoyed 
 so much the mere pleasure of existence, as during my visits 
 
CERRO DE LOS AMERICANOS. 
 
 279 
 
 to the " fuente de Axusco." There stood a cross in a nook 
 near the pool, and I often observed chaplets of fresh flowers 
 suspended upon it. It puzzled me exceedingly, and one day, 
 finding a little boy seated beside it, I asked him why it was 
 there ? It commemorated an awful murder, he said, and 
 that was all he knew, except that the victim was a woman. 
 Beyond the " fuenta," is the range of low hills which I have 
 mentioned as bordering the plain of Leon on the side of the 
 ocean. I had the trees cut down on the most commanding 
 peak, and rode there so frequently that the rancheros in the 
 vicinity christened it " el cerro de los Americanos," the hill 
 of the Americans. From this point the eye traversed the 
 whole vast plain, and took in every object of interest. Upon 
 one hand the forests alone shut the lake of Managua from 
 view, while upon the other the broad Pacific lay bright and 
 beautiful on the edge of the horizon. With a glass the ves- 
 sels in the harbor of Realejo, and the outlines of the volcano 
 of Coseguina, distant more than a hundred miles, could easily 
 be distinguished. A view from the " cerro de los Ameri- 
 canos" is an incident in a man's lifetime not likely to be for- 
 gotten. Its impression upon my own mind is too distinct 
 ever to be effaced. 
 
 Our second week in Leon was signalized by a military 
 ball and a government dinner, both on a scale far surpass- 
 ing anything of the kind which had been witnessed in the 
 city for many years. The ball was under the special patron- 
 age of Gen. Don Jose Guerrero, who had just finished a term 
 as Director of the State, but who had accepted the command 
 of the garrison in the absence of the General-in-chief. It 
 was during his administration that the seizure of San Juan 
 by the English had taken place, and it was his eloquent 
 appeal, in a circular addressed to all civilized nations, which 
 had arrested the attention and awakened the sympathy of 
 General Taylor and his cabinet. My arrival in the country, 
 it can readily be understood, was to him a source of the pro- 
 
280 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 foundest satisfaction; and during my official residence in 
 Leon, I had no warmer friend than General Guerrero. May 
 he live to witness the fruition of the policy which he marked 
 out for his country, arid the realization of those high and 
 patriotic hopes which he has so long and so devotedly cher- 
 ished ! 
 
 Amongst the most pleasing incidents connected with my 
 arrival was a formal visit from the municipal authorities of 
 the Indian pueblo of Subtiaba, who, in their way, are amongst 
 the sturdiest republicans in all Nicaragua. At their head 
 was Simon Roque, with whom I afterwards established an 
 intimate friendship. He presented me an address, written 
 both in the Indian language and in Spanish, and accompa- 
 nied it with a speech, Avhich was far above the average, both 
 in language and sentiment, and altogether a favorable speci- 
 men of Indian eloquence. Simon and his companions were 
 dressed in spotless white, and each wore a red sash about his 
 waist, and carried a gold-headed cane, an insignia of office, in 
 his hands. They were curious to know about the Indian 
 population of the United States, and I blush to say it, I was 
 ashamed to tell them the truth. They had heard that I was 
 a great friend of the Indians, and on the lookout for " piedras 
 antiguas." They had something to tell me on that subject, 
 but it could only be done when wc were alone. So the sala 
 was cleared, and Simon, after some circumlocution, informed 
 me that they knew of certain ancient stones which their an- 
 cestors had buried a very long time ago, and which, if I 
 wished, they would present to me, on the peremptory condi- 
 tion, however, that their locality should be kept a profound 
 secret. I was too glad to have an opportunity to assent to 
 any conditions, and it was finally agreed that, as it would be 
 impossible for me to attend to the business now, some of the 
 stones should be excavated at once, and sent to my residence. 
 They were as good as their word; and a couple of mornings 
 thereafter we were surprised at finding two statues at the 
 
MUNICIPALITY OF SUBTIABA. 
 
 281 
 
 threshold of the portal ; and a few nights later a cart ap- 
 peared with two more, — of all which a description will be 
 given in another place. This little piece of confidence over, 
 I treated the company to as much claret as they chose to 
 drink, and we parted with the understanding that I should 
 return the visifr at an early day. The address and reply were 
 as follows : 
 
 ADDRESS. 
 
 " Sir : — The municipality of the Pueblo of Subtiaba, of which we are 
 member?, entertain the highest enthusiasm in view of the relations which 
 your arrival induces us to believe will speedily be established between 
 Nicaragua and the United States, the greatest and most glorious republic 
 beneath the sun. We rejoice in the depths of our hearts that a man like 
 yourself has been chosen to convey to us the assurances of future pros- 
 perity, in the name of the sons of Washington ; and we trust in the Al- 
 mighty, that the flag of the United States may soon become the shield of 
 Nicaragua on land and sea. Convey our sincerest thanks for their sympa- 
 thy to the great people which you represent, and give to your generous 
 government the assurances of that deep gratitude which we feel but can- 
 not express. We beg of you, Sir, to accept this humble evidence of the 
 cordial sentiments which we entertain both for you, your countrymen, and 
 your Government, and which are equally shared by the people which we 
 represent. 
 
 Jose de la Cruz G-arcias, 
 (Signed) Simon Roque, 
 
 Francisco Luis Antan. 
 
 REPLY. 
 
 ''My friends of the Municipality of Subtiaba: 
 
 • : I experience great pleasure in receiving from your hands this brief but 
 earnest address ; and I return you my thanks, both personally and in be- 
 half of my Government, for the friendly sentiments which it contains. I 
 sincerely hope that the high anticipations which you have formed from a 
 more intimate relation between your country and the United States, may 
 be fully realized." 
 
 The reader may be assured that I did not forget my promise 
 to the municipality of Subtiaba. A day was shortly afler- 
 36 
 
282 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 wards fixed for my visit, and I was received with great cere- 
 mony at thecabildo, or council chamber, where I found col- 
 lected all the old men who could assist me in forming- a 
 vocabulary of the ancient language, which I had casually 
 expressed a desire to procure. It was with difficulty that we 
 could effect an entrance, for a half-holiday had been given to 
 the boys of all the schools in honor of the occasion, and they 
 literally swarmed around the building. We were finally 
 ushered into an inner room, where the archives of the mu- 
 nicipality were preserved. Upon one side was a large chest 
 of heavy wood, with massive locks, which had anciently been 
 
 I, A P ARROQL'IAI, D E STBTIABA, 
 
 the strong box or treasury. A shadow fell over Simon's 
 face as he pointed it out to me, and said that he could re- 
 member the time when it was filled with " duros," hard 
 dollars, and when, at a single stroke of the alarm bell, two 
 thousand armed men could be gathered in the plaza o\' Sub- 
 tiaba. But those days were passed, and the municipality 
 now scarcely retained a shadow of its former greatness. 
 Under the crown it had earned the title "leal y fiel," loyal 
 
PROCURING A VOCABULARY. 
 
 283 
 
 and true; and in reward of its fidelity it had received a grant 
 of all the lands intervening between it and the ocean, to hold 
 in perpetuity for the benefit of its citizens. And Simon 
 showed me the royal letters, signed " Yo, el Rey" (I, the 
 King), which the emperors of Spain had thought it not 
 derogatory to their dignity to address to his predecessors 
 in office; and notwithstanding his ardent republicanism, I 
 thought Simon looked at them with something of regret. I 
 inquired for manuscripts which might throw some light upon 
 the early history of the country, but found only musty 
 records, of no interest or value. 
 
 My attempts to fill out the blank vocabulary with which I 
 was provided created a great deal of merriment. I enjoyed 
 it quite as much as any of them, for nothing could be more 
 amusing than the discussions between the old men in respect 
 to certain doubtful words and phrases. They sometimes 
 quite forgot my presence, and rated each other soundly as 
 ignoramuses; whereat Simon was greatly scandalized, and 
 threatened to put them all in the stocks as " hombres sin 
 verguenza," men destitute of shame. "Ah!" said he, 
 " these old sinners give me more trouble than the young 
 ones" — a remark which created great mirth amongst the out- 
 siders, and especially amongst the young vagabonds who 
 clung like monkeys to the window bars. The group of swar- 
 thy, earnest faces gathered round the little table, upon which 
 was heaped a confused mass of ancient, time-stained papers, 
 would have furnished a study for a painter. It was quite 
 dark when I had concluded my inquiries, but I was not per- 
 mitted to leave without listening to a little poem, " Una De- 
 cima," written by one of the schoolmasters, who read it tome 
 by the light of a huge wax candle, borrowed, I am sure, from 
 the church for the occasion. My modesty forbids my attempt- 
 ing a translation, and so I compromise matters by submitting 
 the original: 
 
284 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 DECIMA. 
 
 Nicaragua, ve hasta cuando 
 Oesara vuestro desvelo, 
 Ya levantara el vuelo 
 Hermoso, alegre, y triunfante ; 
 Al mismo tiempo mirando 
 De este personage el porte. 
 Y mas sera cuando corte 
 Todos los agradecimientos : 
 Diremos todos contentos 
 Viva el Gobierno del Norte ! 
 
 As I mounted my horse, Don Simon led off with three 
 cheers for " El Ministro del Norte," and followed it with 
 three more for " El Amigo de los Indios " (the friend of the 
 Indians), all of which was afterwards paraded by a dingy 
 little Anglo-servile paper published in Costa Eica, as evi- 
 dence that I was tampering with the Indians, and exciting 
 them to undertake the utter destruction of the white popula- 
 tion ! 
 
 The Indians of Nicaragua, who, as I have said, predomi- 
 nate in the country, are singularly docile and industrious, 
 and constitute what would, in some countries, be called an 
 excellent " rural population." They are a smaller race of 
 men than the Indians of the United States, but have fine 
 muscular developments, and a singularly mild and soft ex- 
 pression of countenance. In color also they are lighter, and 
 their features less strongly marked. Some of the women are 
 exceedingly pretty, and when young, have figures beautifully 
 and classically moulded. The}' are entirely unobtrusive in 
 their manners, seldom speaking unless first addressed, and 
 are always kind and hospitable to strangers. They are not 
 warlike but brave, and when reduced to the necessity, fight 
 with the most desperate obstinacy. Leon has more than once 
 owed its safety to the Indian battalion of Subtiaba, which, in 
 
PRIMITIVE SPINNING. 
 
 285 
 
 the civil wars of 1838-39, marched triumphantly from one 
 end of Central America to the other. 
 
 The agriculture of the State is almost entirely carried on 
 by them ; but they are not deficient in mechanical skill, and 
 with the rudest tools often produce the most delicate and 
 elal x >rate articles of workmanship. The women manufacture 
 a large quantity of cotton for their own consumption and for 
 sale. And in riding through Subtiaba in the afternoon, no 
 spectacle is more common than to see a woman naked to the 
 waist, sitting in the doorway of almost every hut, or beneath 
 the shadow of an adjacent tree, busily engaged in spinning 
 
 PRIMITIVE SPINNING APPARATUS. 
 
 cotton. A little foot-wheel, such as was formerly in use for 
 spinning flax in our own country, is here commonly used for 
 this purpose. But the aboriginal contrivance is not yet 
 wholly displaced. It is exceedingly simple, consisting of a 
 thin spindle of wood fifteen or sixteen inches in length. 
 which is passed through a fly, or wheel of hard, heavy wood, 
 six inches in diameter, resembling the wheel of a pulley, ex- 
 cept that it is convex instead of concave on the edge. The 
 spindle thus resembles a gigantic top. When used it is 
 placed in a calabash, or hollowed piece of wood, to prevent 
 it from toppling over, when not in motion. A thread is 
 attached to it, just above the fly, and it is then twirled rap- 
 
286 
 
 NIC ARAG U A — N A KR ATI V K. 
 
 idly between the thumb and fore-finger. The momentum of 
 the % keeps it in motion for half a minute, and meantime 
 the thread is drawn out by the hands of the operator, from 
 the pile of prepared cotton which she holds in her lap. It 
 is then wound on the spindle, and the process repeated, until 
 the spindle is full of thread. 
 
 In the foregoing cut a represents the cotton; b, b, the 
 spindle ; d, the fly ; c, the thread already spun and wound : 
 and e, e, the outlines of the calabash. A precisely similar 
 mode of spinning was practised by the ancient Mexicans, 
 who, however, inserted the lower end of the spindle in a 
 hole made in a block of wood, as shown in the accompanying 
 engraving. The mode of weaving 
 amongst the Indians of Nicaragua was 
 anciently the same as that of the Mexi- 
 cans, which is sufficiently well illus- 
 trated in the following engraving, 
 copied from the Codex Mendoza, a 
 Mexican manuscript or painting. 
 
 Some of the cotton fabrics manufac- 
 tured by the Indians are very durable, 
 and woven in tasteful figures of various 
 colors. The color most valued is 
 the Tyrian purple, obtained from the 
 murex shell-fish, which is found upon the Pacific coast of 
 Nicaragua. This color is produced of any desirable depth 
 and tone, and is permanent; unaffected alike by exposure 
 to the sun and to the action of alkalies. The process of dying 
 the thread illustrates the patient assiduity of the Indians. It 
 is taken to the seaside, when a sufficient number of shells are 
 collected, which being dried from the sea water, the work is 
 commenced. Each shell is taken up singly, and a slight 
 pressure upon the valve which closes its mouth forces out a 
 few drops of the coloring fluid, which is then almost destitute 
 of color. In this each thread is dipped singly, and after ab- 
 
 SI-INNING, FROM A MEXICAN 
 MANUSCRIPT. 
 
TYBIAN PURPLE. 
 
 287 
 
 sorbiug enough of the precious liquid, is carefully drawii out 
 between the thumb and finger, and laid aside to dry. Whole 
 days and nights are spent in this tedious process, until the 
 work is completed. At first the thread is of a dull blue 
 
 1> K I M I T I V K W K A VINO; FRO M A M EX1CAN MANUSCRIPT. 
 
 color, but upon exposure to the atmosphere acquires the de- 
 sired tint. The fish is not destroyed by the operation, but 
 is returned to the sea, when it lays in a new stock of coloring 
 matter for a future occasion. ' 
 
 The manufacture of "petates," or variegated mats, from 
 the bark of the palm, and hammocks from the " pita," a 
 species of agave, is exclusive^ in Indian hands. They are 
 also skillful in the manufacture of pottery, which has re- 
 mained unchanged from the period before the Conquest. The 
 
 1 " The cotton-yarn thus dyed is known in the country by the name of 
 ' kilo morado,' and is highly prized by the Indian women of all the States, 
 who are extremely partial to it for adorning the dresses used on festive 
 occasions. Formerly, high prices were paid for it; being frequently sold 
 in Guatemala and other principal towns, for from ten to fourteen dollars 
 the pound. In recent times purple thread has been imported from Eu- 
 rope, and sold at a much cheaper rate ; but the color is neither as good 
 nor as durable, and notwithstanding its economy, does not supplant the 
 native product. The Indians are not easily deceived by offering them the 
 one for the other, as they can readily distinguish the foreign from the 
 genuine by some peculiarity of smell in the latter, which, although the 
 dearest, is always preferred." — Baity, p. 125. 
 
288 
 
 NIC AR AG U A — X A HR AT I YE . 
 
 "cantaros," water-jars, and other vessels in common use, 
 amongst all classes, are made by them. They are formed 
 by hand, without the aid of the potter's wheel, and are vari- 
 ously and often elaborately colored and ornamented, baked, 
 and when intended for purposes requiring it, are partially 
 glazed. The water-jars, however, are porous, so as to admit 
 of enough water passing through to keep the outer surface 
 covered with moisture, the evaporation of which rapidly and 
 effectually cools the contents of the vessel. Oviedo com- 
 mends highly the skill which the ancient inhabitants dis- 
 played in the manufacture of their pottery, and which is very 
 well sustained both by the fragments which are found, and 
 by the wares which the Indians still manufacture. " They 
 make basins, plates, jars, and pitchers, of very fine pottery, 
 black and smooth as velvet, and brilliant as jet. I have 
 brought some specimens, which are so fine that they might 
 be offered to a prince." Thus saith the chronicler. 
 
 Mr. W. H. Edwards, in his narrative of "A Voyage up 
 the Amazon," p. 11-i, describes the preparation and painting 
 of pottery by the Indians on that river. The brushes or 
 pencils were the small species of palms, and the coloring 
 matter the simplest kinds. The blue was indigo ; black, the 
 juice of the mandioca; green, the juice of some other plant; 
 and the red and yellow, clays. The colors were applied in 
 squares and circles, or if anything imitative was intended, in 
 the rudest outlines. The glazing was produced by a resinous 
 gum found in the forests, which was gently rubbed over the 
 vessels, previously warmed over a bed of coals. This descrip- 
 tion applies equally to the modes practised in Nicaragua. 
 
 They also make drinking vessels from the calabash; the 
 largest varieties are called "gluteals" or " aguacals" and the 
 smaller ones, made from the long or pear-shaped calabash, 
 "jicaras." These last are often tastefully carved upon their 
 exteriors, and are generally used instead of tumblers. It is 
 indispensable that "tiste" should be served in "jicaras," and 
 
MANl'FACTURE OF POTTERY. 
 
 289 
 
 amongst the people at large they are also used for coffee and 
 chocolate. But as their bottoms are round, little carved 
 stands are made to receive them. The Indians near the city 
 of Nicaragua make similar cups from a variety of cocoa-nut 
 peculiar to that vicinity, which are celebrated throughout 
 their country for their beauty of shape and ornament. They 
 are black, and highly polished, and when mounted with sil- 
 ver, are greatly prized by foreigners. 
 
 JICARA. GCACAL, 
 
 The dress of the Indians is exceedingly simple. On ordi- 
 nary occasions, the women wear only a white or flowered 
 skirt, fastened around the waist, leaving the upper part of 
 the person entirely exposed, or but partially covered by a 
 handkerchief fastened around the neck. In Masaya and 
 some other places, a square piece of cloth, of native manu- 
 facture, and of precisely the same style and pattern with 
 that used for the same purpose before the Discovery, supplies 
 the place of the skirt. It is fastened in some incomprehensi- 
 ble way, without the aid of strings or pins, and falls from the 
 hips a little below the knees. The guipil and nagua are 
 however adopted in nearly all the large towns, and are 
 everywhere worn on festival clays and Sundays. The men 
 wear a kind of cotton drawers, fastened above the hips, but 
 frequently reaching no lower than the knees. Sandals sup- 
 ply the place of shoes, but for the most part both sexes go 
 37 
 
290 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 with their feet bare. The taste for ornament is universal ; 
 and a rosary, to which is attached a little golden, silver, or 
 ebony cross, is suspended from the necks of male and female, 
 old and young. They are also fond of flowers, and the girls 
 are seldom without some of them entwined amongst the lux- 
 uriant locks of their long, black hair, or braided in a chaplet 
 and encircling their foreheads. 
 
 AN INDIAN GIKL OF SUBTIABA IN nOIJDAY COSTUME. 
 
 The municipality of Subtiaba, in common with the barrios 
 of some of the towns, holds lands, as I have said, in virtue 
 of royal grants, in its corporate capacity. These lands are 
 inalienable, and are leased to the inhabitants at low and 
 almost nominal rates. Every citizen is entitled to a sufficient 
 quantity to enable him to support himself and his family ; 
 for which he pays from four rials (half a dollar,) to two dol- 
 lars a year. This practice seems to have been of aboriginal 
 institution ; for under the ancient Indian organization, the 
 right to live was recognized as a fundamental principle in the 
 civil and social system. No man was supposed to be 
 
THE RIGHT TO LIVE. 
 
 291 
 
 entitled to more land than was necessary to his support ; nor 
 was he permitted to hold more than that, to the exclusion or 
 injury of others. 
 
 In fact, many of the institutions of the Indians in this 
 country were recognized, and have been perpetuated by the 
 Spaniards. Some of the ceremonies of the aboriginal ritual 
 have also been incorporated amongst the rites of the Catholic 
 Church. In many respects it is hard to say whether the 
 conquerors have assimilated most to the Indians, or the In- 
 dians to the Spaniards. For, however rude and subverting 
 the first shock of Spanish conquest in America, the subse- 
 quent policy of Spain, framed and directed by the famous 
 Council of the Indies, was that of conciliation. In common 
 with the church, it conceded much to the habits and feel- 
 ings of the aborigines, and to a certain extent conformed to 
 them. 
 
 The conquest of Nicaragua was effected with no less vio- 
 lence than that of Mexico and Peru; and if we may credit 
 the account of Las Casas, the pious bishop of Cbiapa, who 
 visited the country in person, it was both attended and fol- 
 lowed by extraordinary cruelties. He charges the enormity 
 chiefly upon Pedro Arias de Avila, Governor of Darien, who 
 sent Cordova to subdue the country, and who himself after- 
 wards became its governor. 
 
 "The Indians of this province," he says, " were naturally 
 of a mild and peacable temper ; yet notwithstanding this, the 
 Governor, or rather Tyrant, with the ministers of his cruelt} r , 
 treated them in the same manner as they did those of the 
 other kingdoms. They committed murders and robberies, 
 more than it is possible for pen to relate. Upon the slight- 
 est pretexts, the soldiers massacred the inhabitants without 
 regard to age, sex, or condition. They exacted from them 
 certain measures of corn, and certain numbers of slaves, and 
 if these were not rendered, hesitated not to kill the delin- 
 quents. And the country being plain, the people were 
 
292 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 unable to escape to the mountains as they did elsewhere, and 
 were consequently at the mercy of the Spanish horse. They 
 carried off many thousands as slaves, slaying those who 
 fainted or wearied on the march. 
 
 " The Governor once arbitrarily changed the distribution 
 of the Indians, conveying most of them to his favorites, to the 
 exclusion of those with whom he was displeased. The result 
 of this was a great scarcity of food; and the Spaniards seiz- 
 ing upon the provisions of the Indians, caused a great distress, 
 and induced a disorder which destroyed upwards of thirty 
 thousand of the people. 
 
 " All the cities, and fields around them, were like pleasant 
 gardens, which the Spaniards cultivated according to the 
 share which each one had assigned him by lot ; and to save 
 their own revenues, supported themselves from the stores of 
 the Indians, thus consuming, in a short time, what these poor 
 people had got together with great care and toil. Nobles, 
 women, and children were all compelled to work day and 
 and night ; many died under the burthens which were im- 
 posed upon them. For they obliged them to carry on their 
 shoulders to the ports, which were in some cases distant thirty 
 leagues, the plank and timbers used in building vessels." 
 
 Las Casas, however, regards the practice of exacting slaves 
 from the caziques, for transportation and sale elsewhere, as 
 one of the chief causes of the depopulation of the country. 
 Five or six ship-loads were annually taken to Peru and 
 Panama, and sold there. He calculates that half a million of 
 Indians were thus drawn out of Nicaragua alone ; but this 
 number appears incredible. The statement that from fifty to 
 sixty thousand perished in the wars of the Conquest is per- 
 haps, nearer the truth; for, as he observes, "this was one of 
 the best peopled countries in all America." 
 
 When the Council of the Indies began to repress the cru- 
 elties of the conquerors, the governors of Nicaragua proved 
 themselves refractory ; indeed, Rodrigo de Contreras openly 
 
EARLY CRUELTY TOWARDS THE INDIANS. 
 
 293 
 
 disobeyed his instructions in this respect, which was the 
 proximate cause of the insurrection headed by his son, to 
 which I have elsewhere alluded. 
 
 The following incident, related by Oviedo, will illustrate 
 the severe and repulsive measures which were practised to- 
 wards the Indians at this early period. u In 1528, the trea- 
 surer, Alonzo de Peralta, and a man named Zurita, and the 
 brothers Ballas, left the city of Leon, each to visit the vil- 
 lages and Indians belonging to him. They never returned, 
 having been destroyed by their own vassals. Hereupon 
 Pedro Arias de Avila sent out soldiers to bring in some 
 of the malefactors. They arrested seventeen or eighteen 
 caziques whom Pedro Arias caused to be strangled by dogs. 
 The execution took place in the following manner, on Tues- 
 day, the 16th of June of the same year, in the public square 
 of Leon. Each cazique was armed with a stick, and told to 
 defend himself against the dogs, and to kill them if he could. 
 Five or six young dogs were first set upon them, which their 
 masters wished to train, as they were yet without experience. 
 They ran baying around the Indian, Avho easily kept them 
 off with his stick; but the moment he thought himself con- 
 queror, a couple of mastiffs, or well-trained hounds, were sent 
 against him, who threw him in a moment. The other dogs 
 then fell upon him, biting and choking him, tearing out his 
 entrails, and devouring him, as it were. In this manner the 
 eighteen were soon disposed of. They were from the valley 
 of Olocoton, and its vicinity. When the dogs were satiated, 
 the dead bodies remained in the same place, it being forbid- 
 den to carry them off, under penalty of being served in like 
 manner ; otherwise the Indians would have taken them away. 
 They were thus left in order to frighten the natives; but on 
 the second day the stench of the dead bodies became insup- 
 portable. And on the fourth, it was so horrible that, being 
 compelled to pass there in going to the house of the governor, 
 I begged him to give permission to have them carried away ; 
 
294 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 which he did the more readily, since his house was situated 
 near the square." 
 
 But whatever their former condition, the Indians of Nica- 
 ragua no longer labor under any disabilities. They enjoy 
 equal privileges with the whites, and may aspire to any 
 position, however high, both in the Church and State. The 
 system of peonage (slavery under a less repugnant name) is 
 here unknown. Yet the Indian retains his traditionary 
 deference for the white man, and tacitly admits his superi- 
 ority. In some of the States of Central America, a jealousy 
 of caste has been artfully excited by unscrupulous partisans, 
 for unworthy purposes, which has led to most deplorable 
 results; but in Nicaragua, if this feeling exists at all, it is 
 only in a latent form. At any rate, it has never displayed 
 itself in any of those frightful demonstrations which have 
 almost desolated Guatemala and portions of Peru, and which 
 threaten the entire extinction of the white race in Yucatan. 
 This quiet, however, may be that of the slumbering volcano; 
 and its continuance may depend very much upon the judicious 
 encouragement of white emigration from the United States 
 and from Europe. 
 
 The original inhabitants of Nicaragua, and of Central 
 America generally, seem to have been of the true Toltecan 
 stock. So too were the nations of Anahuac, the Aztecs or 
 Mexicans, but modified and deteriorated by association and 
 intermixture with the barbarous Chichemecas. From this 
 source they derived the fiercer and more savage traits in 
 their characters; and even now, notwithstanding that they 
 have to a great extent adopted new customs, and been sub- 
 jected to the influences of Spanish association for more than 
 three hundred years, the distinguishing traits of the two 
 families are easily to be recognized. The mild, brave but 
 not warlike, industrious, intelligent, and law-abiding Indians 
 about Leon, of the purer Toltecan blood, furnish in their 
 smaller and more rounded forms, their regular features, clear 
 
INDIAN THAITS. 
 
 295 
 
 eyes, and cheerful expression, a decided contrast to the rest- 
 less, treacherous, and cruel Indians round the ancient city of 
 Nicaragua. The latter are taller, more bony, with sharper 
 and often irregular features, and with an always reserved if 
 not sullen expression. The contrast is hardly greater than 
 between the French and the Dutch. Yet none of these In- 
 dians could ever be confounded with the roving tribes of our 
 latitude. They have certain generic or radical identities, but 
 in most physical and mental features, are widely different. 
 Those of Central America are capable of high improvement, 
 and have a facility of assimilation or adaptation. They con- 
 stitute, when favorably situated, the best class of citizens, 
 and would anywhere make what in Europe is called a good 
 rural or working population. I have found some really 
 comprehensive minds amongst them, — men of quick and 
 acute apprehension, and great decision and energy of char- 
 acter. 
 
 In brief, the better I become acquainted with the various 
 aboriginal families of the continent, the higher position I am 
 disposed to award them, and the less I am disposed to assent 
 to the relative rank assigned them by the systematic writers. 
 
 I have already mentioned the interview between our Ameri- 
 can friend in Granada, and the rebel chief, Somoza. Soon 
 after our arrival in Leon, positive information was received 
 that he had been successful in his descent upon San Carlos, 
 and had got possession of the anus and ammunition which 
 had been deposited there. He, however, did not attempt to 
 retain possession of the place, but returned immediately with 
 his spoils to the city of Nicaragua. Meantime, nevertheless, 
 as I have already intimated, the support which he had 
 received from the party opposed to the government, had 
 been entirely withdrawn, in consequence of the excesses 
 which he had committed, and he came back to find his adhe- 
 rents dispirited and rapidly diminishing. The decision and 
 energy of the government further contributed to weaken his 
 
296 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 power ; and when the General-in-chief arrived in his neigh- 
 borhood, he was left with less than half his original forces. 
 His spirit, however, never failed him, and he boldly advanced 
 to meet the troops of the government. The first battle was 
 at a place called the " Obraje." Here he was worsted, and 
 compelled to fall back upon his original position, at the town 
 of San George, about a league distant from the city of Rivas, 
 or Nicaragua. General Munoz, having effected a junction 
 with the volunteers from Granada, who had proceeded by 
 water, attacked him here the next day, (July 14th,) com- 
 pletely routed his forces, and took him and his principal fol- 
 lowers prisoners. It is hardly necessary to add that they 
 were tried by court-martial, and shot. 
 
 The information of these events was received in Leon with 
 extravagant demonstrations of joy, and for a whole day we 
 were stunned by the firing of guns and the ringing of bells. 
 In the evening the following Bulletin was issued : 
 
 " Bernabe Somoza, the author of misfortunes and the cause of evils 
 which can never be repaired, was captured in San Jorge on the evening 
 of the 14th inst., after the defeat of his forces by the army of the Govern- 
 ment. Subsequently to the action he was taken to the city of Rivas, tried 
 according to martial law, sentenced to death, and shot (fue pasado por las 
 armas), on the morning of the 17th, in the presence of the entire army. 
 The General in Chief then harangued the troops in the following impress- 
 ive terms: 
 
 " ' Soldiers ! "We have, in a very few days, completed a glorious cam- 
 paign. This happy result is due to your valor, constancy, subordination, 
 and endurance. The monster, Somoza, the terror of the innocent inhab- 
 itants of this department, has suffered the just punishment of his crimes. 
 The robber, the incendiary, the desecrator of temples, the violator of 
 female innocence, the murderer, has passed from beneath the sword of 
 human justice to the awful presence of an offended God! Soldiers, you 
 have saved the honor and preserved the integrity of the State, vindicated 
 humanity, and avenged the violated laws. For this I thank you ; you 
 have merited and will receive the gratitude of your country. Should the 
 
END OF THE INSURRECTION. 
 
 297 
 
 occasion arise, (which God forbid !) I shall be proud to lead you again to 
 victory. Long live the Government! God save the Republic !' 
 
 " Thus has triumphed the cause of order, of progress, and of reason ! 
 Thanks to the illustrious General Munoz and his brave soldiers, the bul- 
 wark and safeguard of the State ! Their deeds speak for themselves ; 
 they need no encomiums. They teach us an impressive lesson of patriot- 
 ism and virtue." 
 
 These events put an end to the internal disturbances of the 
 State. The followers of Somoza at once disbanded, and re- 
 turned to their homes. A few arrests were made; but with 
 a moderation which reflected honor upon the government, 
 and commended it to the people at large, a general amnesty 
 was conceded to all who had participated in the insurrection, 
 upon the condition of the surrender of their arms, and the 
 restitution of the property and valuables which they had 
 taken, and which commissioners were appointed to receive, 
 and to restore to their rightful owners. 
 
 Upon the 16th of August following, having completely 
 reestablished order , and taken proper precautions against 
 further disturbances, Gen. Munoz returned with his forces to 
 Leon. He was met by a deputation from the city at the 
 " Convento," where speeches were made, and congratulations 
 exchanged, and whence the troops marched in triumph to 
 the city. They were received with great enthusiasm, and 
 proceeded in a body to the Cathedral, where the " Te Deuin" 
 was sung in acknowledgment of their safe return. The 
 extraordinary battalion was at once disbanded, and the regu- 
 lars only retained in the service. It was some months, how- 
 ever, before the vigilance of the government was at all 
 diminished, and not until every revolutionary symptom 
 seemed to have died out. Subsequently a medal was voted 
 to the General, " for the excellent services which, under God," 
 he had rendered the State. It Avas ordered to be of gold, 
 and to contain upon one side a laurel wreath, with the words, 
 "To the Defender of Liberty and Order in Xica- 
 38 
 
298 
 
 NICARAGUA NARRATIVE. 
 
 ragua ; " and upon the reverse a naked sword, with the 
 inscription, " For his Triumph of July 14, 1849." Medals 
 were also voted to the subordinate officers who had particu- 
 larly distinguished themselves on the same occasion; and 
 the "soldiers and patriots" who had fought in the ranks, 
 were decorated upon the left shoulder with a shield, bordered 
 with gold, containing a palm tree in the centre, with two 
 swords crossed below, and the words "Rivas, July 14, 
 1849." The State also voted a pension " to the wounded, 
 and to the fathers, widows, and children of those who had 
 fallen in the service." And at the same time decreed " that 
 in profound recognition of his visible protection, the corpo- 
 rations and authorities of the State, civil and military, would 
 unite in a public and solemn manifestation of thanks to God. 
 in the holy Cathedral, on the 2d of September." 
 
 And while upon this subject, I may anticipate events a 
 little, and describe the ceremonial, for which great prepara- 
 tions were made, and which was conducted with great 
 solemnity. Upon the morning of the day high mass was 
 said in the Cathedral, in presence of all the officers of State, 
 and the army. The soldiers occupied the grand aisle, and 
 the citizens filled the outer ones. After this was concluded, 
 a procession was formed, preceded by a large silver cross, 
 beneath which drooped the flag of the State. Then came the 
 military band, next the host, borne by the Bishop in person, 
 beneath a heavy crimson canopy of velvet. He was sur- 
 rounded by the higher dignitaries of the church, and followed 
 by the officers of the State and army, bare-headed, and all 
 moving in a hollow square of soldiers, also with heads un- 
 covered and guns reversed. Then came the chanters of the 
 Cathedral, the soldiers, and the citizens. But the most sin- 
 gular features of the procession were the statues of the saints, 
 which, borne on men's shoulders, were distributed at inter- 
 vals throughout the line. Many of these were of the size of 
 life, and in their golden, tinselled, and fantastic robes, pro- 
 
FESTIVAL OF PEACE. 
 
 299 
 
 duced a very singular effect. Amongst them was San Beni- 
 to, a little black fellow, canonized, doubtless, by a far-seeing 
 and politic church to conciliate the colored population. He 
 is, by the way, the most popular saint in Nicaragua, and has 
 a grand annual festival at Masaya, to which devotees flock 
 from all parts of Central America. Men, women, and chil- 
 dren alike joined in the " Procession of Peace," which moved 
 slowly through the principal streets, stopping in front of each 
 of the churches to chant a prayer of thanks. It finally re- 
 turned to the Cathedral, where the " Te Deum" was sung, 
 and the assemblage dismissed under a benediction from the 
 Bishop. No sooner was this more sober part of the ceremony 
 over, than the everlasting ringing of bells and the firing of 
 guns commenced again, and was kept up until dark, when 
 there was an exhibition of fireworks in the plaza. 
 
 Thus ended the insurrection of Somoza, and thenceforward 
 Leon wore a more cheerful aspect. The conduct of the gov- 
 ernment, from its commencement to its close, was marked with 
 great justice and moderation, and afforded, in these respects, 
 a striking and most favorable contrast to that which has for 
 many years distinguished military operations in Central 
 America. 
 
CHAPTER XI. 
 
 ANTIQUITIES — ANCIENT STATUE IN THE GRAND PLAZA MONUMENTS ON THE 
 
 ISLAND OF MOMOTOMBITA IN LAKE MANAGUA— DETERMINE TO VISIT THEM — 
 THE PADRE PAUL — -PUEBLO NUEVO AND OUR OLD HOSTESS — A NIGHT RIDE — 
 
 "HACIENDA DE LAS VACAS" A NIGHT AMONGST THE " VAQUEROS" THE LAKE 
 
 OUR BONGO VISIT THE HOT SPRINGS OF MOMOTOMBO ATTEMPT TO REACH 
 
 ONE OF THE " INFERNALES" OF THE VOLCANO — TERRIBLE HEAT GIVE UP THE 
 
 ATTEMPT — OVIEDO'S ACCOUNT OF THE VOLCANO " PUNTA DE LOS PAJAROS" 
 
 MOMOTOMBITA — DREAD OF RATTLESNAKES — THE MONUMENTS — RESOLVE TO 
 
 REMOVE THE LARGEST A NEST OF SCORPIONS — TRIBULATION OF OUR CREW — 
 
 HARD WORK — HOW TO SHIP AN IDOL VIRTUES OF AGUARDIENTE — " PUR- 
 CHASING AN ELEPHANT" MORE " PIEDRAS ANTIGUAS" THE ISLAND ONCE IN- 
 HABITED SUPPOSED CAUSEWAY TO THE MAIN LAND A PERILOUS NIGHT VOY- 
 AGE DIFFICULT LANDING ALACRAN OR SCORPION DANCE — A FOOT MARCH IN 
 
 THE FOREST — THE " HACIENDA DE LAS VACAS" AGAIN SCANT SUPPER RETURN 
 
 TO LEON — THE IDOL SENT, VIA CAPE HORN, TO WASHINGTON A SATISFIED 
 
 PADRE IDOLS FROM SUBTIABA MONSTROUS HEADS VISIT TO AN ANCIENT 
 
 TEMPLE FRAGMENTS MORE IDOLS INDIAN SUPERSTITIONS " EL TORo" 
 
 LIGHTING ON TWO LEGS A CHASE AFTER HORSES SWEET REVENGE " CAPILLA 
 
 DE LA PIEDRA" — PLACE OF TnE IDOL THE FRAY FRANCISCO DE BOBADILLA 
 
 HOW HE CONVERTED THE INDIANS PROBABLE HISTORY OF MY IDOLS THE 
 
 ANCIENT CHURCH " LA MERCEDES DE SUBTIABA" — ITS RUINS — GARRAPA- 
 TAS TROPICAL INSECTS SNAKES AND SCORPIONS Versus FLEAS AND WOOD- 
 TICKS A CHOICE OF EVILS. 
 
 AMONGST the objects of interest which early attracted my 
 attention in Leon, was an ancient figure or statue of stone, 
 planted at one of the corners of the principal plaza. It was 
 of basalt, boldly sculptured, and represented a man with his 
 hands clasped on his breast, and apparently seated upon 
 some kind of pedestal. The lower part of the figure, how- 
 ever, had been broken, and the fragment which remained 
 was little more than one-third of the original length. A 
 
302 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 fillet was represented bound around the brow, and the head 
 was surmounted by a head-dress somewhat resembling those 
 which are to be observed in some of the ancient Egyptian 
 sculptures. The face was perfect, with the exception of a 
 part of the mouth, which had been broken, and the eyes 
 were apparently closed. The whole expression was grave 
 
 IDOL FROM M O M O T M B I T A . NO I . 
 
 and serene, and yet so characteristic, that I could not resist 
 the impression that it was copied after a living model. The 
 accompanying engraving will convey a very correct idea of 
 the original, which I procured and presented to the Smith- 
 sonian Institution at Washington, where it is now deposited. 
 The back of the figure is square, grooved on the edge, and 
 notched entirely across, so as to resemble overlapping plates. 
 It will be observed that the shoulders appear to be unnatu- 
 
ANT 1 Q A K I AX EXPEDITION. 
 
 303 
 
 rally elevated; but upon closer examination it will be seen 
 that the original design seems to have been to represent the 
 figure in the act of supporting some heavy body ; suggesting 
 the probability that this, in conjunction with others of sim- 
 ilar design, once supported an altar, or another and still 
 larger statue. The fiat top favors this supposition. 
 
 I found, upon inquiry, that this figure, together with many 
 others, had been obtained from the island of Momotombita, 
 in Lake Managua, where there were still a number of inter- 
 esting monuments. I at once proposed an expedition to the 
 island, and availing myself of the time pending the com- 
 mencement of my negotiations with the government, set out 
 on the 26th of July, in company with Dr. Livingston, and 
 Padre Paul, editor of "El Correo del Istmo," the govern- 
 ment paper, who was curious in matters of this kind. The 
 Padre was a native of Spain, where he had received a liberal 
 education, but by some mistake had become a priest. I say 
 mistake, not because the Padre was not a good priest, but 
 because nature had intended him for a licenciado, or a poli- 
 tician, if not for a traveller. The government, some days 
 previous to our departure, had sent orders to Managua for 
 boats to be in readiness at a point on the lake, nearest the 
 island, called " Piedras Gordas," and there to await our arri- 
 val. It was late in the afternoon when we left the city for 
 Pueblo Nuevo, where we proposed to pass the night. The 
 road was the same over which we had travelled in our jour- 
 ney to Leon ; but the season was now further advanced, and 
 the great plain was shrouded with a vegetation three-fold more 
 luxuriant than before. The maize, which a few weeks pre- 
 viously hardly covered the ground, was now breast high ; 
 the cactus fences too were relieved by yellow flowers, and 
 the inner leaves surrounding the stalk, bending outward, dis- 
 played their delicate pink linings to the sun. 
 
 The Padre was mounted on a splendid mule, gaily capari- 
 soned, and with his cassock tucked up, heavy riding boots, 
 
304 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 and massive silver spurs, followed by his servant, with an 
 " alforjas," full of edibles, made a dashing figure at the head 
 of our little cavalcade. He rode like a trooper, and seemed 
 to enjoy the freedom of the forest quite as much as any sin- 
 ner. A stranger might have taken him for a soldier in dis- 
 guise, or an eager lover speeding to a distant mistress. It 
 was a tearing ride, that twenty-four miles to Pueblo Nuevo, 
 and in less than three hours we dismounted at the door of the 
 house where I had slept on my previous journey. The old lady 
 and her five daughters had had no warning of our coming. 
 and were evidently mortified to be found sans satin slippers, 
 and with hair dishevelled. But before supper was ready 
 they all made their appearance in full costume, as before, and 
 we ventured upon a compliment or two by way of compen- 
 sating for the contretemps of our sudden arrival. 
 
 We found that it was yet upwards of three leagues to the 
 " Piedras Gordas" where our boat was waiting, and as we 
 were anxious to be there by sunrise, we resolved to proceed 
 to a cattle estate, near the place, that night. The Padre did 
 not relish the idea of leaving comfortable quarters for the 
 doubtful accommodations of the " hacienda de las vacas" and 
 was eloquent in describing the difficulties and dangers of 
 riding through unfrequented forest paths in the night time ; 
 but the Padre was in a minority, and had to submit. We 
 accordingly procured a guide, and started. For a couple of 
 miles we kept the main road, and got along smoothly ; we 
 then turned off at right angles into the forest. The night 
 was exceedingly dark, and the path narrow/, and even in the 
 daytime obscure. But our guide seemed entirely at home, 
 and we followed as well as we were able. Occasionally he 
 shouted " cuidado ! " li take care," which was the signal to fall 
 flat on our horses, in order to escape the limbs and branches 
 of the trees. But notwithstanding all our caution, we got 
 some most ungentle thumps and scratches, and were several 
 times nearly dragged from our saddles. Once we became 
 
HACIENDA DE LAS VAC AS. 
 
 305 
 
 entangled for a quarter of an hour, in the top of a fallen tree, 
 and had literally to cut our way through it with our swords 
 and machetes. The Padre considerately kept in the rear, and 
 got the benefit of all our experiences. Our progress was 
 necessarily very slow, and I began to fear that we had lost 
 our way, and almost to repent that we had not taken the 
 Padre's advice, when we heard the lowing of cattle and the 
 barking of dogs in the distance. Thus encouraged, we pressed 
 on, and soon came into a broader path. We pursued this for 
 some distance, the barking of the dogs becoming every 
 moment more distinct, until finally emerging from the woods, 
 we galloped towards a little eminence, where a number of 
 fires proclaimed the existence of the cattle rancho. It was 
 surrounded by a kind of stockade, or fence of upright posts, 
 and, as we approached, we were saluted with a ferocious 
 " Quien viveV who are you? Night descents by robbers, 
 on the haciendas, during civil disturbances in the country, 
 are by no means uncommon occurrences ; and as the estates 
 have usually a considerable number of men attached to them, 
 they sometimes result in severe fights. Our approach, had 
 therefore alarmed the establishment, and had not our guide 
 been known, w r e might have been turned back with a volley, 
 instead of having the gate opened to us with an invitation to 
 enter. In the centre of the square was a mud house, sur- 
 rounded by a thatched shed, beneath which a dozen ham- 
 mocks were suspended. Three or four fires were smoulder- 
 ing just outside of this shed, and around them were reclining 
 some calves which had been bitten by bats, or injured by 
 wild animals. A dozen surly dogs stalked amongst the 
 swarthy "vaqueros," or herdsmen, whose half naked figures 
 were; just visible by the faint red light of the fires. A 
 couple of women, alarmed by the sound of voices, hurried, 
 scantily dressed, from the house, but were at once reassured 
 by the Padre. Altogether, with the champing horses, and 
 39 
 
306 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 the gleaming of arms, shut in as it was by the darkness as 
 with a pall, the seene was singularly wild and picturesque. 
 
 The animals attended to, the next thing was to dispose 
 ourselves for the night. The women offered us the house, 
 in which were two naked hide beds. My bones were ago- 
 nized at the sight of them, and I chose a hammock beneath 
 the shed, and wrapping myself in my blanket, tumbled in. 
 The men gave up their places without grumbling, and 
 stretched themselves on the bare earth. Soon all was still, 
 except the melancholy howl of the " mono Colorado," and 
 the low, distant murmur of the lake. I slept soundly until 
 roused by Ben's morning gun at the earliest dawn, lie had 
 already prepared a cup of chocolate, which, with a cracker 
 and ajicara of fresh milk, constituted our breakfast. The 
 horses were saddled, and giving the princely sum of a rial 
 each to the men whom we had so summarily dislodged, we 
 started for the lake. The road was through a beautiful 
 forest of large trees, which the cattle kept comparatively free 
 from underbrush, and which had occasional open places, 
 where the ground was covered with long fresh grass. Half 
 an hour brought us to the shore. The sun had not yet risen, 
 but a brilliant coronet of rays shot up above the sharply 
 defined and fantastic outlines of the distant mountains of 
 Segovia, and was reflected in the tremulous waters of the 
 lake. Immediately in front, towered the volcano of Momo- 
 tombo ; its lower half purple in the shade, and its upper of 
 the richest amber. A thin column of smoke rose almost 
 perpendicularly from its summit, which first caught the crim- 
 son rays of the sun, and then changed to gold. Upon the 
 right, a perfect cone, was the island for which we were 
 bound, and in the foreground our boat, half drawn up on 
 the shore, and near by, at the root of a great tree, clustering 
 around their breakfast fire, was its crew. They had been 
 encamped here for two days, awaiting our arrival ; and 
 
LAKE MANAGUA. 
 
 307 
 
 would have waited a mouth for that matter — for what was 
 time to them, so long as the lake furnished fish, aud plantains 
 were plenty? 
 
 Our horses were fastened to a long rope, one behind the 
 other, and sent back in charge of our guide to the hacienda, 
 with express instructions to have them on the shore again at 
 nightfall, in case we should return. Our boat, like some of 
 the bongos on Lake Nicaragua, was hollowed from the single 
 trunk of a cebia tree. It was upwards of forty feet long, and 
 full six feet broad, permitting a tall man to lie across its bot- 
 tom. There was no wind, and the men were obliged to take 
 to their oars. And as it was not greatly out of our way, we 
 determined before going to the island to pass to the foot of 
 the great volcano, and visit the hot springs at its base. The 
 intervening bay is upwards of ten miles broad, but we crossed 
 it before nine o'clock. While on the lake, we had an excel- 
 lent opportunity to view the volcano. It is about six thou- 
 sand feet, or one mile and a fourth, in perpendicular height, 
 and very steep, — so steep, indeed, that even if there were no 
 danger in the ascent, it would probably be impossible to 
 reach its summit. Its lower half is covered with trees, which 
 in the ravines that seam its sides run up still higher, gradu- 
 ally narrowing like the points of a ruff. The upper half 
 seems made up of scoria, which, near the summit, gives place 
 to ashes of a white color. The crater appears small and reg- 
 ular in outline ; and there are some openings on the sides, 
 towards its base, which emit steam and smoke, and around 
 which sulphur is deposited on the rocks. These are called 
 " infernales," and we observed one on the side towards us, 
 at a comparatively small elevation, which greatly excited our 
 curiosity, and which we resolved to visit. 
 
 At the point where we landed, the ground was composed 
 of a kind of ochery earth, of a dark red color, varied with 
 yellow, which the boatmen told us was used for paint. A 
 fourth of a mile to the right, and immediately at the edge of 
 
308 
 
 NIC AR AG U A — NARRATIVE. 
 
 tlie lake, were the "fuentes calientes," or hot springs. They 
 are hundreds in number ; in fact, for a considerable extent, 
 the ground was covered with white incrustations, resembling 
 a field of snow ; and as we walked over it, the sound of the 
 water beneath was like that of a violently boiling cauldron. 
 There were numerous openings, from which rose columns of 
 steam, and where the water boiled up to the height of from 
 six inches to two feet. Around some of these places the de- 
 posites had gradually built up little cones, with openings in 
 the centre, where the clear water bubbled as in a kettle. I 
 sent specimens of the deposites to the United States for 
 analysis, but they unfortunately miscarried, and I am conse- 
 quently unable to give the constituents of which they are 
 made up. They will no doubt be duly announced when the 
 " Grand Volcano Ilotel, and North American Natural Hot 
 Spring Bath Establishment," shall be opened for invalids, 
 on the shores of Lake Managua. 
 
 Between the shore and the true base of the volcano is a 
 gentle slope, ridged with beds of lava, which run down into 
 the lake, but which have become disintegrated on the surface, 
 and are now covered with coarse grass, bushes, and clumps 
 of trees. Here cattle from distant haciendas are allowed to 
 roam from one year's end to the other, until they become 
 almost as wild as the deer themselves. The vaqueros occa- 
 sionally visit them, to mark the young ones, or to select the 
 best ones for sale, but beyond this they receive no care or 
 attention. We started over this slope, in the direction of 
 the smoking orifice which we had observed from the lake. 
 But we were under the lee of the mountains, where not a 
 breath of wind reached us, and exposed to the full glow of 
 the sun; and before we had gone a mile, we almost repented 
 of our undertaking. The doctor, the padre, and myself 
 alone persisted in proceeding. The surface became rougher 
 as we advanced, and scrubby trees and thorny bushes im- 
 peded our progress, and shut out from view the place which 
 
VOLCANIC VENTS. 
 
 we were struggling to reach. We next came to ridges of 
 treacherous, scoriaceous sand, which yielded beneath our feet, 
 and which we only ascended by clinging to the clumps of 
 grass which grew here and there, and by driving our swords 
 to their hilts in the ground, as supports. But our progress 
 was slow and painful, and we were compelled to pause every 
 second minute to recover our strength. Finally, the sun 
 was no longer hot, it was withering, and the dry scoriae be- 
 came blistering to the touch. I looked up towards the top 
 of the volcano, and shall never forget its utterly bald and 
 desolate appearance. The atmosphere on its sides seemed to 
 undulate with heat, and the reflected rays burned my eye- 
 balls. I turned to my companions, and found that they suf- 
 fered equally with myself. The padre had wisely bound his 
 handkerchief over his head and eyes. It was folly, he said, 
 to attempt to go further, and we concurred with him, and 
 retraced our steps. The descent was of course comparatively 
 easy, but when I reached the boat, I was completely exhaust- 
 ed, and adequately convinced of the folly of attempting to 
 climb volcanoes under a tropical sun, at mid -day. 
 
 Oviedo speaks of this volcano as one very high, "its sum- 
 mit pierced by a multitude of separate orifices, whence smoke 
 is always rising, which can be seen at the distance of twenty 
 leagues. No flame," he continues, " is visible by day or 
 night. An abundance of sulphur may be found here, accord- 
 ing to the report of those who have used it in the manufac- 
 ture of powder, and also of those who have used it for other 
 purposes. On the sides and parts adjacent to this volcano, 
 for a distance of live or six leagues, there is an abundance of 
 springs of boiling water like the Sufretarari, (Solfatara,) 
 that may be seen at Pouzzole, two or three leagues from 
 Naples. I should think that all these mountains formed but 
 one mine of sulphur. There are also orifices through which 
 proceeds a stream of air, so warm as to be unendurable. If 
 we approach it, we seem to hear the uproar of a vast number 
 
310 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 of forges in full blast, sometimes ceasing, and in a few- 
 moments recommencing again ; but the time the noise can be 
 heard is at least four times as long as the pauses. Near the 
 village of Totoais a thermal spring, so warm that the Indians 
 use it for cooking their meat, fish, and bread. These articles 
 of food are cooked in less time than it would take to repeat 
 the Credo twice ; and as for eggs, they would be done sooner 
 than an Ave. 11 
 
 We found our men quietly smoking their cigars under the 
 shade of a tree, perfectly careless as to whether they stayed 
 there all day or proceeded. Such an imperturbable set I 
 verily believe were never before got together. We told 
 them to push off for the island, which they did in the most 
 leisurely manner. The wind had begun to blow, and as it 
 was against us, they towed the boat along under the lee of 
 the shore, walking by its side in the water, which, at the 
 distance of a quarter of a mile out, was hardly breast-deep. 
 We saw many deer, and a number of lazy alligators on the 
 shore, but beyond the reach of our rifles. We finally came 
 to the " Punta del Pajaro," a high ledge of naked basaltic 
 rocks projecting out into the lake, and covered with myriads 
 of water-fowls. Here our men took to their oars, and paddled 
 direct for the island. The afternoon wind was now blowing 
 strongly, and the lake was rough. It required two hours' 
 hard rowing to bring us to the island, where we pulled ashore 
 in a little cove, protected from the swell of the lake. 
 
 This island is volcanic, and rises in a regular cone from the 
 water's edge, to the height of two thousand eight hundred 
 feet. It is about eight miles in circumference, and is covered 
 with a dense forest. The shore where we landed was stony, 
 but a short distance back the stones gave place to sand and a 
 rich loam. Victorino, our patron, knew the locality of the 
 monuments, and putting on his sandals, took his machete, 
 and led the way, peering suspiciously to the right and the 
 left. We inquired the cause of his caution, and received the 
 
ISLAND OF MOMOTOMBITA. 
 
 311 
 
 comforting assurance "hay muchos cascabeles," "there 
 are many rattlesnakes ! " The Dr. whipped out his sword, 
 stepped high, and constantly startled us by mistaking vines, 
 coiling on the ground, for " cascabeles." After proceeding 
 for about half an hour, we came to a spot where the under- 
 brush and bushes gave place to high grass. Here was a kind 
 of natural amphitheatre, Avithin which the ground was smooth, 
 sloping gently towards the lake, and shadowed over with 
 high trees. This, Victorino informed us, was the site of the 
 monuments, but they had all fallen, and the tall grass hid 
 them from our view. We were compelled to beat it down 
 with our machetes, and thus discover the figures one by 
 one. As I have said, many had been carried away, and 
 most of those which remained were broken, or so defaced as 
 to be of little value for my purposes. Victorino said that he 
 could remember when there were as many as fifty statues 
 here, and when some of them stood erect. According to his 
 account and that of others, they had been arranged in the 
 form of a square, their faces looking inwards ; and the posi- 
 tion of those which remained, and of the fragments, confirmed 
 the story. Amongst the few still entire, was one of large 
 size, and which a party, sent by the English Consul, had a 
 few years before endeavored to carry away for the British 
 Museum, but after getting it part of the way to the lake, had 
 abandoned it in despair. It was ruder than some of the 
 others, but perfect, and I at once resolved to remove it, with 
 a view of sending it to the United States. I accordingly sent 
 Victorino to bring his boat and men to the nearest point 
 possible, and with Dr. Livingston, the Padre, and Ben, began to 
 cut down small trees of the proper size for skids or pries, and 
 to open a path to the lake. When Victorino came with his 
 lazy crew, we set them to work also, but they did not accom- 
 plish much, and we soon found that we had to bear the 
 burthen of the labor ourselves. With great difficulty we 
 cleared a road, and laying down large skids rolled the figure 
 
312 
 
 NICARAGUA — N ARRATI VE. 
 
 upon them. Beneath it a colony of " alacrans del monte, " 
 or black scorpions, had established themselves ; and in an 
 instant they swarmed around our legs. The half naked 
 
 Indians retreated precipitately, 
 but, protected by our high, thick 
 boots we stood our ground, and 
 stamped the little stinging mon- 
 sters to death with our heels. 
 It was not, however, until we 
 had succeeded in moving the 
 statue some distance from the 
 spot, that we could persuade 
 the Indians to rejoin us. After 
 two hours' of hard work, we 
 rolled it to the shore; but now 
 the question was to get it in 
 the boat. Victorino protested, 
 in the first place, against trying 
 to carry it at all, as it would 
 surely crush the boat and 
 drown us; and in the second 
 place against putting it in the 
 bottom, which he said it would 
 inevitably break through. In 
 fact we were a good deal stag- 
 gered ourselves; we had not 
 thought of this, but neverthe- 
 less determined not to lose our 
 
 IDOL FROM MOMOIOMBI T A , X O . 2 . 
 
PIEDRAS ANTIGUAS. 
 
 313 
 
 labor. If it was put at the bottom, even though it might not 
 break through, it was clear that we never could muster force 
 enough to get it out. So we decided that it should be carried 
 by placing it lengthwise on the rowers' seats, which, in order to 
 support the weight, were to be strengthened by crossbars. The 
 men stood aghast at our proposition, and at first utterly refuse* I 
 to assist us. They took the padre aside and told him thai 
 "these Americans were certainly crazy." We however pro- 
 mised them each a half dollar extra, administered a dose of 
 
 
 FRONT VIEW OF HEAD OF No. 2. 
 
 brandy and water, and finally got them to take hold again 
 An inclined plane of timbers was built up against the boat, 
 which was half filled with stones, to sink her as low aspossi 
 hie, and to fix her firmly in the sand. The statue was then 
 'gradually rolled on board. More than once I thought our 
 fabric would break down; had it done so there would have 
 been more crushed legs than whole ones in the company. 
 After it was secured, part of the stones were thrown out, and 
 we soon had the satisfaction of seeing the bongo afloat, and 
 perfectly balanced. A profile view of this figure is given in 
 the foregoing engraving. It is regularly cut in black ba- 
 40 
 
314 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 salt, or trachyte, of intense hardness. The features of the 
 face are singularly bold and severe in outline ; the brow is 
 broad, the nose aquiline, the cheeks high, the mouth open, 
 and containing what we may infer (for reasons which will be 
 given elsewhere) was intended to represent a human heart. 
 The arms and legs are rudely indicated, but the distinctive 
 sexual features are broadly marked. And here it may be 
 observed that, while most of these statues represent males, 
 
 
 COLOSSAL 11 K A n FROM M O HOTOHBI T A . 
 
 some of them represent females ; and there are but few in 
 which the sex is not distinguishable. The reason for these dis- 
 tinctions may be found in the fact that the doctrine of the Re- 
 ciprocal Principles of Nature, or Nature Active and Passive; 
 Male and Female, was recognized in nearly all the primitive 
 religious systems of the New as well as of the Old World, and 
 in none more clearly than in those of Central America. Be- 
 sides this figure, we carried off the colossal head represented 
 in the above drawing ; but found nothing more which would 
 
TEADITIONAL CAUSEWAY. 
 
 315 
 
 repay the trouble of removal. There may have been other 
 figures of interest hidden in the long grass and bushes ; and 
 Victorino informed us that upon the opposite side of the 
 island there was still another place, where there were formerly 
 many " piedras antiguas;" but that also was overgrown 
 with grass. It was now late, and unless we spent the night 
 on the island, it was clear Ave could make no further examina- 
 tions. And as I proposed to return in the dry season, when 
 the grass might be removed by burning, we concluded to 
 relinquish our explorations for the present. 
 
 The island of Momotombita was anciently inhabited, and 
 called Cocobolo. I observed fragments of pottery, and of 
 vessels of stone, strewed all over the shore ; and in the little 
 cove where we landed there were evidences that the rocks 
 had been rolled away to facilitate the approach of boats to 
 the land. At a point on the shore of the main land, nearly 
 opposite ihe island, is a line of large stones, extending for 
 the distance of one or two hundred yards into the water, and 
 projecting above it. The Indians have a vague tradition 
 that this was a causeway built by " los antiguos habitantes," 
 extending from the shore to the island ; and Capt. Belcher, of 
 the British navy, who travelled here in 1838, seems to think 
 the story not improbable. The supposed causeway is nothing 
 more than a narrow vein of rock injected at some remote 
 period through a fissure in the superior strata or crust of the 
 earth; and being harder than the materials surrounding it^ 
 has retained its elevation, while they have been worn away 
 by the action of the water. 
 
 It was quite sunset when we pushed off from the island ; 
 and when we got out from under its lee, we found the wind 
 blowing a gale, and the sea high. Ours was a ticklish load; 
 and, as the bongo had no keel, the necessity of keeping her 
 directly before the wind was obvious ; for had she rolled a 
 foot on either side, the stone would have overset us in a 
 twinkling. Victorino was anxious but cool, and his men 
 
316 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 were too much alarmed not to obey orders, and we put up 
 the sail and got under way without accident. Fortunately 
 the winds here blow with great steadiness, or our voyage 
 might have been rendered more perilous than it was, and 
 that would have been quite unnecessary. The night fell, 
 
 dark and cloudy ; the Padre and M soon became seasick, 
 
 and the crew, consoling themselves that we had a priest on 
 board, gathered around the foot of the mast, and silently told 
 their beads. Ben stationed himself, knife in hand, at the 
 halyards, and I clung to a stick of light wood which I found 
 in the boat, and calculated the chances of getting ashore by 
 its aid, in case our stone god should upset us. Altogether 
 we had a serious time, and the three hours which we occu- 
 pied in passing to the land seemed quite as long as six under 
 ordinary circumstances. It was so dark that we could 
 not distinguish the shore, but fortunately the lire, left by the 
 men in the morning, fanned by the wind, had caught in the 
 trunk of the tree at the foot of which it was built, and an- 
 swered the purpose of a lighthouse in guiding us to our 
 destination. Here we succeeded in landing under the lee of 
 some large rocks, against which the surf broke with the 
 force and noise of the ocean. I now quite comprehended 
 why Capt. Belcher, old salt as he was, declined venturing 
 upon this lake, even after having brought a boat for the 
 purpose all the way from Realejo. I felt no ordinary degree 
 of satisfaction when I found myself on terra firma once more. 
 In removing the loose articles of our equipment from the 
 boat, Ben was twice stung in the hand by a scorpion, and 
 danced about the shore in an agony of pain. I however 
 wrapped his hand in a cloth soaked in brandy, and gave him 
 copious internal doses of the same, — the best, and usually 
 the most accessible, remedy. 
 
 Our horses were not to be found ; either our guide had not 
 brought them down, or else had returned with them to the 
 rancheria. We held a council as to whether it was best to 
 
A NIGHT MARCH. 
 
 317 
 
 camp on the shore or push through the forest to our quarters 
 of the preceding night. The uncomfortable wind and a few 
 heavy drops of rain decided us ; and, with Victorino, bearing 
 some brands of fire at our head, we set out. It was as dark 
 as Erebus in the woods, and quite impossible to discern the 
 person next in advance. We however followed the fire, and 
 after a weary march came to the hacienda. We were tired 
 and hungry, but there was nothing to eat except tiste and 
 curds. We made the most of these, but went to our ham- 
 mocks unsatisfied, consoling ourselves, however, with the 
 prospect of an illimitable breakfast at the house of our host- 
 ess of the five slippered daughters, in Pueblo Nuevo. 
 
 Before leaving next morning, I distributed the promised 
 favors amongst our crew, and engaged the entire force of the 
 estate to assist our guide, who was to return with a cart for 
 the statue. A few days after, it reached Leon, having broken 
 down three carts on the road. I subsequently sent it to 
 Realejo, whence it was shipped, via Cape Horn, for the 
 United States. It is now deposited in the Museum of the 
 Smithsonian Institution, at Washington. And thus termi- 
 nated my first antiquarian episode in Nicaragua. The Padre 
 expressed himself satisfied ; one such ride, he said, was 
 enough for a lifetime. 
 
 I have elsewhere said that the Indians of Subtiaba brought 
 me two idols, shortly after my arrival in Leon. A reduced 
 back view of the first of these is presented in the subjoined 
 engraving. It had been broken, and a portion, perhaps 
 comprising one-third of the entire figure, had been lost. The 
 part which remains is something less than six feet in height 
 by eighteen inches in diameter, or upwards of four feet in 
 circumference. The face has been battered with heavy 
 sledges, and its features obliterated. The ornaments upon 
 the back and elsewhere are, however, very well preserved, 
 and are quite elaborate ; more resembling those of Copan 
 than any others discovered in the country. The face seems 
 
318 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 to project through the widely distended jaws of some ani- 
 mal, the head of which serves as a head dress. The ancient 
 Mexican soldiers had a common practice of wearing the 
 heads of animals, or helmets in imitation of them, on their 
 heads in battle, to render themselves horrible, and frighten 
 their enemies. Upon its breast the figure sustains a kind of 
 plate, or some piece of armor, and upon its right arm wears 
 
 IDOL FROM SUBTIABA. NO. 1. 
 
 a shield. The carving seems to have been very good ; but the 
 zeal of the early Christians, and the corroding tooth of time, 
 have greatly injured the entire statue, which is now in the 
 Museum of the Smithsonian Institution. 
 
 Idol from Subtiaba, No. 2.— This figure closely resem- 
 
IDOLS FROM SUBTIABA. 
 
 319 
 
 bles that just described, and, like that, has suffered greatly 
 from the same cause. The features of the face are entirely 
 obliterated ; the design of the head dress is, however, more 
 apparent, and is palpably what I have already indicated, the 
 
 Side, 
 
 Back, 
 
 IDOL FROM SUBTIABA, NO. 2 . 
 
 jaws of some monstrous animal, between which the face of 
 the figure projects. It is less elaborately sculptured than 
 No. 1, but of the same material, and corresponding in size. 
 One hand rests upon the breast, the other hangs loosely at 
 the side. This idol also is deposited in the museum of the 
 Smithsonian Institution. 
 
 Idols from Subtiaba, No. 3. — Subsequent to the pre- 
 sentation of the two figures above described, I had a frag- 
 
320 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 ment brought to me, of which, a front view is given in the 
 annexed engraving. It is of sand-stone, two feet six inches 
 
 high, by ten or twelve inches in di- 
 ameter, much frayed and worn by 
 exposure, and greatly injured by 
 violence. It bears evidences of 
 having been elaborately orna- 
 mented, and seems to have been 
 designed to represent a female. 
 Its most singular feature, how- 
 ever, is a mask of the human 
 face, which is held upon the ab- 
 domen by both hands. Perhaps, 
 however, the Indians were right 
 in suggesting that it represents 
 an opening in the abdomen, held 
 apart by the hands, and exposing 
 some mythological figure therein 
 concealed. There are some rea- 
 sons in support of this suggestion, 
 which it would hardly be proper 
 to submit in a work of this popu- 
 lar character. This figure has also been broken, and less 
 than half of it now remains. 
 
 The idols above described, as I have already said, were 
 brought to my house by the Indians ; and I know nothing 
 concerning them, except that they were exhumed near the 
 base of the Cerro Santiago, to the south-west of Leon, where 
 they had been buried for several generations. I subse- 
 quently learned of the existence of others in the same direc- 
 tion, and went, in company with a guide, kindly obtained for 
 me by Gen. Guerrero, to examine them. Our route lay 
 through Subtiaba, in the direction of the ocean. We passed 
 over a beautiful undulating country, full of abandoned plan- 
 tations, and watered by several fine streams, skirting the 
 hills to the south-west of Leon. At the distance of about 
 
 IDOL FROM SUBTIABA, NO. 3. 
 
1 
 ■ 
 
 I 
 
 ■ 
 
 SB 
 
 n 
 
 ■I 
 
322 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 have supposed to be the hair is a modified example of that 
 kind of ornamental featkerwork so common in the ancient 
 monuments of Mexico, Yucatan, and Central America. A 
 broad collar passes around the neck, and a circular plate, or 
 shield, with an attempt at a representation of a human face in 
 the centre, is suspended from it, in front of the figure. A kind 
 of belt passes around the body, above the hips, from which 
 depends a flap, like that frequently Avorn hy the Indians of 
 the frontiers, even to this day. At the lower extremity of 
 this is a round, cup-shaped hole, capable of containing about 
 a quart, the purposes of which are not apparent. 
 
 In cutting paths around this figure, I came upon an oblong 
 elevation of stones, which seemed to have been the base of 
 some edifice, or one of the ancient teocallis or altars of the 
 aborigines. It was about two hundred feet long, sixty broad, 
 and ten high. Around the edges the stones still retained 
 some degree of regularity, but the whole was nevertheless a 
 ruin, and large trees were growing on its summit. The nu- 
 merous fragments of sculpture scattered around this spot 
 showed conclusively that it had been visited by systematic 
 violence, not only anciently, at the period of the Conquest, 
 but subsequently, and within a very few years. My guide 
 told me that he could remember the time when the Indians 
 came here secretly by night, and performed strange dances 
 around these idols, and poured out libations before them. 
 The ground around the single erect figure above described 
 was comparatively free from undergrowth, showing that even 
 now it is secretly visited, by the descendants of the people 
 who first erected it, for the performance of traditionary, 
 sacred ceremonies. The priests arc vigilant in detecting and 
 putting down these remnants of idolatry ; and only a few 
 months before my arrival had broken up a remarkable figure 
 of an animal called " El Toro," the bull, which existed about 
 a league distant from this very spot, and to which the In- 
 dians, for a long time, openly resorted, to make offerings of 
 
A STAMPEDE. 
 
 523 
 
 tiste, and to perforin dances preparatory to putting their crops 
 in the ground. The destruction of the idol was effected se- 
 cretly, and afterwards proclaimed to have been done by the 
 lightnings of indignant heaven; but one of my Indian friends 
 told me privately that the Indians understood the trick, and 
 knew that this lightning went on two legs, and wore a cas- 
 sock ! I would have gone to the spot, and endeavored to 
 have restored the fragments for a sketch, but my guide told 
 me that the natives had carried them off and buried them. 
 
 While engaged with the stones, we had carelessly, and as 
 usual, let our horses go loose. For the first time, they now 
 took it into their heads to abuse this indulgence, and trotted 
 off. The more we endeavored to coax them back the more 
 vicious they were, and finally dashed off at full speed into 
 the "jicaral," where they kicked up their heels in great 
 glee. The prospect of a walk back to Leon, with the loss of 
 saddles, pistols, swords, and other et ceteras, if not of the 
 brutes themselves, was little calculated to excite our admira- 
 tion of these antics. The chase continued half an hour, 
 when we succeeded in securing the horse of our guide ; but 
 unfortunately he was the poorest of the whole, and not able 
 to come near the others in a race. Luckily our guide had 
 a lasso, and after another half hour of manoeuvring, in which 
 we all got heated and angry, my own horse was secured, 
 lie was duly " lathered" for his pains, and was handed over 
 to the guide to pursue the others ; being the fleetest, the busi- 
 ness was soon done. We took precious good care that they 
 should not get the upper hand of us again that day, and 
 rode them home with a malignant pressure on the terrible 
 Mexican bit, and with no stinted application of the equally 
 terrible Spanish- American spur. 
 
 Upon our return, the guide conducted us out of our way 
 into a kind of amphitheatre amongst the hills, to what he 
 called the "Capilla de la Piedra," the Stone Chapel. It 
 was a large rock of conical shape, placed high on the slope 
 
324 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 facing the entrance to this natural circus, and upon that side 
 had a niche, or hollow, capable of containing four or five 
 persons, and which seemed to have been cut in the rock. 
 I failed to satisfy myself whether it was natural or arti- 
 ficial ; but finally concluded, from its position and regularity, 
 that it was a natural opening in the rock, enlarged and 
 modified by art. There were traces of fire, and fragments of 
 broken pottery around it, and immediately in front a largo 
 flat stone, which might have been used for an altar. As I 
 looked at it, surrounded by rough, frowning rocks, and 
 shrouded with vines, I fancied it an appropriate niche for an 
 idol, and imagined this natural amphitheatre filled with a 
 superstitious multitude, in blind adoration before it, while 
 the blood of human sacrifices flowed perhaps on the very 
 spot where I now stood. 
 
 I have said that I knew not whence the Indians obtained 
 the idols which they brought to me, beyond that they were 
 exhumed at the base of the Cerro de Santiago, near Subtiaba. 
 Now the Fray Francisco de Boradilla, of the Order of 
 Mercy, was especially active in the conversion of the Indians 
 of Nicaragua, which process, according to the chronicler 
 Ovicdo y Valdez, consisted in baptizing them, giving them a 
 Christian name, and exacting forty grains of cacao ! Boba- 
 dilla converted forty thousand in three months in the domin- 
 ions of the cazique of Nagrando, whose principal town was 
 where the city of Leon now stands. He also prevailed upon 
 the cazique to allow him to throw down the idols which 
 stood in "the spacious and sumptuous temple which the 
 Indians, under the special direction of the devil, had erected 
 there," and to set up the cross iu their stead. After he had 
 battered the faces of these idols with a mace, Bobadilla threw 
 them down from their high places, intending to burn them 
 with fire, in order to show the Indians the impotence of their 
 teots ; but, "during the night some did take them away and 
 buried them, so that they could not be found." And it is 
 
■ 
 
RUINS OF THE ANCIENT CHURCH OF LA MERCED DE SUBTIABA 
 
A RUINED CHURCH. 
 
 325 
 
 not unlikely that those are the very idols exhumed for me 
 by the Indians of Subtiaba, two of which, after doubling the 
 Horn, now frown down upon the " hijos de Washington," 
 from the west corridor of the Smithsonian Institution ! 
 
 Upon the site of this temple was afterwards built the 
 Christian church "La Mercedes de Subtiaba," which for 
 more than two hundred years has been in ruins. Its adobe 
 walls have subsided into brambly mounds, and all is formless 
 save the piers on which its wooden pillars stood, and its low, 
 Moorish archway, flanked by two slender columns, which 
 rise white and spectral above a tangled mass of verdure. The 
 town, of which it was once the centre, has shrunk in the 
 lapse of time, and is now a mile distant; and the aboriginal 
 city of which Bobadilla speaks, which covered three square 
 leagues, and had more than one hundred thousand inhabit- 
 ants, has dwindled to less than one fourth of that number. 
 We visited this church on our return. Ben cut away the bushes 
 with his machete, and we rode over the outline mounds, and 
 stood where the simple Indians had knelt, centuries ago, in 
 silent awe before the symbols of a new and imposing religion. 
 A few rude wooden crosses marked the deep pits within 
 which were heaped the victims of the cholera, when in 1837, 
 five years after it had devastated our country, it more than 
 decimated the population of Leon. Two or three Indians, 
 returning from their daily toil in the fields, hearing our 
 voices, pushed their way through the bushes, and reverently 
 took off their hats, when they entered the sacred area. We 
 asked them if they knew aught of the ancient church, or who 
 built it ? " Quien sabe V was the sole reply, and they moved 
 the forefinger of the right hand slowly back and forth, in 
 token of ignorance. It was very ancient, they said — " muy, 
 muyantigua!" Upon the smooth stucco beneath the arch, 
 rudely scratched in the lime, I read, " Juan Peralta, 
 Estranjero, 1732." 
 
326 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 This church was built before Hudson floated on the waters 
 of the magnificent river bearing his name ; before the Pil- 
 grims knelt on the wintry shores of New England, and be- 
 fore Smith spread the terrors of his arm among the Indians 
 of Virginia. And unless some sacrilegious hand shall level 
 the ancient archway, it will yet stand for centuries to mark 
 the site of aboriginal superstition, and attest the zeal of the 
 Fray Bobadilla, who baptized forty thousand Indians, receiv- 
 ing therefor, if they all "paid up," one million six hundred 
 thousand grains of cacao. Pious Bobadilla ! 
 
 There are several other ruined and abandoned Christian 
 churches now buried in the forests in the suburbs of Subti- 
 aba, the dwelling-places of the bats and birds, over whose 
 crumbling walls, and around whose falling columns, creep 
 the wild vines, blooming with flowers, and shedding their 
 fragrance above the silent and deserted altars of the Most 
 High. Kuins upon ruins — Christian church and heathen 
 shrine, they have all sunk down together. 
 
 We returned to Leon to find ourselves covered with 
 " agarrapatas " or Avood ticks, with which the forest fairly 
 swarms during the dry season, and which are brushed off 
 upon travellers by the thousand. They penetrate straight to 
 the skin, and bury their heads in the flesh, causing an irrita- 
 tion which drives many people to distraction. When once 
 fastened it is impossible to detach them by force, without 
 leaving the head in the flesh, where it gets along on its own 
 account, apparently a great deal better than when encum- 
 bered by the body. The only mode of removing them is 
 with a ball of soft wax, which is rubbed over the body, and 
 to which they adhere. Some are small, hardly visible to the 
 naked eye, others are of the size of flax, and even of melon 
 seeds; but " the smaller the worser." Next to the fleas they 
 rank as the predominant annoyance of the country. Musqui- 
 toes (sancudos), in Leon, the principal towns, and the open 
 
TROPICAL A ANOYANCES. 
 
 327 
 
 parts of tlie country generally, there are none ; but compared 
 with fleas and " agarrapatas," the snakes, scorpions, " chin- 
 ches," "sancudos," and all the other abominations of tropical 
 climates are mere bagatelle, and scarcely worth the men- 
 tioning. 
 
 SIDE VIEW OK IDOL FROM Sl'DTIABA, NO 1 . 
 
CHAPTER XII, 
 
 AMUSEMENTS IN LEON — COCK FIGHTING — '"PATIO 1)E LOS GALLOS — DECLINE 
 
 OF THE COCK PIT GAMING — BULL BAITING — NOVEL RIDING " UNA SAGHADA 
 
 FUNCION," OK MYSTERY — A POEM, AND A DRAMA — " UNA COMPANIA DE FU- 
 NAMBULOS," OR ROPE DANCERS — GREAT ANTICIPATIONS — A NOVEL THEATRE — 
 THE PERFORMANCE — " LA JOVENA OATALINA," AND THE " ECCENTRIC CLOWN, 
 
 SIMON," "TOBILLOS GRUESOS," OR " BIG ANKLES." "FIESTAS," AND SAINTS' 
 
 DAYS — THE " FIESTA" OF ST. ANDREW DANCE OF THE DEVILS — UNEARTHLY 
 
 MUSIC ALL-SAINTS' DAY — A CARNIVAL IN SUBTIABA AN ABRUPT CON- 
 CLUSION. 
 
 The novelty of a first visit once worn off, there is little to 
 interest the stranger in Leon. There are no " stated" amuse- 
 ments, except at the cock-pit, which is open every Sunday 
 afternoon. This is always crowded, but not often visited by 
 the better portion of the population. Tt is a smooth spot of 
 ground in the court-yard of the proprietor's house, fenced in 
 by canes to the height of about four feet, surrounded by high 
 benches, and covered with a thatched roof. In the corridors 
 of the house are little stalls, in which the cocks are kept, 
 and here the wife and daughters of the proprietor sell choco- 
 late and dulces to the visitors. No liquors are allowed upon 
 the premises ; and the Government, with a wise prevision, 
 has always an alcalde and a file of soldiers present to pre- 
 serve order. Visitors are admitted at a medio a head, and 
 each one is at liberty to bring his " bird " with him. If a 
 match cannot be made otherwise, the proprietor is obliged 
 to accept the challenge of any of his visitors. A certain sum 
 is paid to him on each cock entered, one-fourth of which goes 
 into the city treasury. I visited the place but once, and 
 suppose that the manner of fighting the cocks can afford but 
 42 
 
330 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 little, of what, I believe, is called " sport." After a match 
 was made up, the cocks had long, sword-shaped gaffs, double- 
 edged, sharp as needles, and in some eases three or four 
 inches long, bound on their legs, with which they almost in- 
 variably crippled themselves in their preliminary manceuvers. 
 The contests were consequently very brief; one or two 
 passes generally finished them. The bets were never high, 
 but the excitement none the less in consequence. In former 
 times, the proprietor told me, he numbered all the " cabal- 
 leros" of the city amongst his visitors, and then golden 
 ounces were wagered instead of dirty rials, — and he drew a 
 handful of the latter from his pocket with a contemptuous 
 sneer, and then violently thrust them back again. He 
 longed for a change ; any change would be acceptable to 
 him which should bring back the caballeros and the golden 
 ounces ! 
 
 But because the more respectable people of Leon do not 
 frequent the cock-pit, it is not to be inferred that they are 
 wholly averse to the species of amusement practised there. 
 On the contrary, in the back corridors of the houses, — and 
 in none more frequently than in those of the padres, — a 
 dozen fine cocks may almost always be found, or at all 
 events heard, if not seen. Quiet little parties are got up of 
 afternoons, cocks fought, and not unfrequently, on such occa- 
 sions, if report speaks true, golden ounces find themselves 
 suddenly transferred from one " bolsa" to another. 
 
 Gaming is a passion amongst the people of all Spanish 
 America. But in Nicaragua it is conducted with less pub- 
 licity and perhaps to a less extent than in most of the Span- 
 ish States. Nevertheless, I heard of instances during my 
 residence in the country, in which thousands of dollars had 
 changed hands in a single evening. The game is, I believe, 
 universally, the well-known " monte." There are several 
 billiard-rooms in Leon, which seemed t 
 
 they 
 
 were not very 
 
 e always full ; but 
 elearant nor even clean. And in the 
 
JUEGO DE LOS TOKOS. 
 
 331 
 
 Calle Eeal there was a licensed gaming-house, "Casa de 
 Juego," the only one, I believe, in the city. It was crowded 
 every night by the lower classes of the population. The 
 gambling, as might be inferred from the character of its fre- 
 quenters, was of a petty kind, — of the " dirty rial'' order of 
 our friend of the "patio de los gallos." 
 
 Central America commenced its Kepublican career with 
 very sweeping reforms, taking the United States for its 
 model. Amongst the earliest acts of its government was the 
 prohibition of bull-fighting. The old taste for that amuse- 
 ment has not, however, died out, but has assumed a some- 
 what different form. It was a festival week in the barrio of 
 the Calvario, — what festival I do not remember, for there 
 was no end to the fiestas and saint's days, — and we were told 
 that it was to end with "uno juego de los toros," or bull 
 baiting, (as near as I could understand it,) in the plaza of the 
 church of that district. In fact the cura waited upon us in 
 person, and invited us to attend. We went in the afternoon, 
 and found a high, strong fence built around the square, with 
 a supplementary enclosure outside, leading into the larger 
 one by a narrow passage closed with heavy bars. The roof 
 and towers of the church were covered with people, mostly 
 women, and amongst them was a band of music. All around 
 the square, and clinging to the fence was a swarm of naked 
 muchachos, and outside of these a great number of horse- 
 men, who, seated on their steeds, could distinctly Avitness the 
 whole performance. Amongst these we took up our posi- 
 tion, the crowd giving us the most commanding place, while 
 an officious alcalde whipped the boys off the fence in front, 
 so as to allow an uninterrupted view. The music kept up a 
 great noise, but the crowd had waited a long time, and were 
 impatient, and assuming the universal prerogatives of crowds, 
 cried out to the musicos "to stop their noise," and to the 
 managers " to bring in the bulls." Directly the bars of the 
 smaller enclosure were raised, and a horseman dashed in 
 
332 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 with a lasso attached to his saddle, dragging after him a 
 large black bull, by the horns. He drove at full gallop 
 around the square, and then adroitly pulled the bull, which 
 was now furious, to a stout post in the centre, where by a 
 few dexterous evolutions he fastened him securely, with his 
 head motionless against the post. Three or four men now 
 approached, and cautiously, and with much difficulty, fasten- 
 ed an " albardo" or common saddle of the country on the 
 back of the bull, securing it firmly by bands around the body 
 of the animal. Fireworks were then fastened to its horns 
 and tail, and an invitation extended to whoever might choose 
 a manejar el tow. Two or three stalwart fellows, ambitious 
 of distinction, volunteered, one of whom was chosen. lie 
 mounted very adroitly, and securing himself in his seat, the 
 fireworks were lighted, and the rope cut. The bull bounded 
 away amidst the explosion of bombas, the beating of drums, 
 and the shouts of the multitude, foaming with rage, making 
 awkward but prodigious leaps, and driving at every object 
 which came in view. There were three or four horsemen in the 
 ring with staves having a little red flag at one end, and a 
 sharp spike at the other. These they alternately dashed be- 
 fore the eyes of the bull, or drove into his flanks. When the 
 fireworks commenced to explode, the toro no longer made 
 at any particular object, but dashed blindly from side to side, 
 throwing the rider from his seat into the dust, where, for a 
 moment, I thought he would be trampled to death, but he 
 scrambled up and made a rapid retreat, evidently more 
 frightened than hurt, over the barricade, amidst the jeers of 
 the crowd, who would have been better satisfied if he had 
 come off with a broken limb or two, or had been killed out- 
 right. The exertion Avas too much for the bull himself, and 
 after chasing the horsemen around for awhile, he marched 
 off, with his tongue hanging from his mouth, and covered 
 with foam, into a corner of the enclosure. There was no 
 more sport to be got out of him, and the crowd vociferated 
 
JUEGO DE LOS TOROS. 
 
 333 
 
 " take him away ! take him away !" So one of the horsemen 
 threw a lasso over his horns and dragged him out. 
 
 Another bull was then introduced, and the same process 
 repeated. But this time the rider kept his seat to the end, 
 and for his skill or good luck, got a plentiful supply of vivas 
 from the boys, and of waving of scarfs from the women. It 
 is impossible to describe the excitement of the multitude 
 during the active parts of the exhibition ; some stamped and 
 Leaped about, and all shouted at the top of their lungs. 
 When the bull lacked spirit, they cried " away with the old 
 cow ! take away the heifer !" and stoned him from the enclo- 
 sure. I soon got enough of the exhibition, and would have 
 gone off, but the cura prevailed on me to stay for the final 
 act, which he said would be il muy glorioso," very glorious. 
 Four bulls were then let loose together, but this time the 
 officer in command of the file of soldiers which was present, 
 permitted no riders. The precaution was a wise one, for 
 only a few months before two men had been killed by way 
 of a " grand finale." The bulls, maddened by the noise and 
 fireworks flashing in their eyes and whizzing in their ears, 
 attacked each other with the greatest fury, and one was 
 dragged out dead from the encounter. His flesh was claimed 
 for the poor of the barrio, and according to usage he was 
 surrendered to them. This kind of amusement I found was 
 a favorite one throughout the State. 
 
 I subsequently witnessed an exhibition of a different kind, 
 in the same place. It was announced as " Una Sagrado, Fun- 
 cion" sometimes called " Sainde" a solemnity or mystery. 
 It fell on a clear moonlight night, and was one of the most 
 singular spectacles which can be imagined. A kind of stage 
 was erected upon one side of the plaza, raised some six feet 
 from the ground, with a place behind, concealed by vari- 
 ously colored cloths, for the participants. In front was 
 a framework of wood, supporting a great number of flaring 
 tallow candles. When we reached the plaza it was crowded 
 
334 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 with spectators. Many had brought their chairs with them, 
 and were seated in a semi-circle, in front of the stage, but 
 most were standing in groups and engaged in earnest con- 
 versation. All the gallants were out, and nearly all carried 
 long naked Toledos under their arms,— a common practice on 
 the occasion of night gatherings. The law, however, forbids 
 pistols, as well as swords or knives under a certain length. 
 It was a famous opportunity for all kinds of intrigue, and I 
 soon began to suspect that there would be more love-making 
 than anything else during the " funcion." But what I saw 
 and heard bearing upon this point, is neither here nor there. 
 Enough for me to say, I got a comfortable seat in the midst 
 of a bevy of the fairest senoritas, and enjoyed the " funcion" 
 as much as the best of them. 
 
 In front of the stage was a kind of orchestra, made up of 
 an infinitude of fiddles and cracked clarionets, which dis- 
 coursed most melancholy music, for half an hour after we 
 came upon the ground. At the end of that time, it was 
 announced that Senor Z., a young man who wrote poetry 
 and wore his hair long, after the manner of bardlings the 
 world over, would recite an appropriate poem. The Senor 
 came forward, bowed low, and after telling us what he pro- 
 posed to say in plain prose, commenced his poem. It related 
 to Christ, dealt largely in superlatives, and complimented 
 our Saviour much after the manner a love-sick youth might 
 be supposed to address his mistress. The only redeeming 
 point was the manner, and the clear, distinct enunciation 
 with which it was given. It was listened to with attention, 
 and vehemently applauded at its close. While the speaker 
 was in the midst of his heroics, and the entire assemblage 
 silent, I heard a heavy regular tramp, and turning, saw a de- 
 tachment of troops, marching slowly through the crowd, 
 their arms glancing in the moonlight. They defiled into the 
 shade, close to the wall of the church, and at the word of 
 command, their muskets came down with a startling clang 
 
UNA SAGRADA FUNCION". 
 
 335 
 
 upon the pavement. There they stood, like bronze statues 
 daring the whole evening. This incident will illustrate the 
 condition of the country better than an essay. 
 
 After the poem, the music struck up again, and we were 
 treated to a lugubrious song by two men and three women, 
 but I could not make out what it was about. Vocal music is 
 certainly at a low ebb in Nicaragua ; nasal music, however, 
 is flourishing. Fortunately the people make no pretensions 
 to musical accomplishments, and thus criticism is disarmed. 
 
 A kind of drama, in two acts, borrowed from the Bible, 
 followed the vocal entertainments, in which a shallow, rat- 
 tling character or clown was introduced, with other comic 
 accessories. This was by far the best part ; the clown was a 
 rare fellow, and acquitted himself well ; but the serious part 
 was very serious. The characters talked in a kind of mo- 
 notonous recitative, like automatons, and without a particle of 
 action. An hour's endurance of this was enough for a 
 Christian, and throwing some silver in the box of a man who 
 went round for the purpose of making a collection for the 
 benefit of the church, I left, in company with the senoritas, 
 who inquired if similar "funcions" were common in the 
 United States ? I told them yes, but that our padres con- 
 signed all those who frequented them to the demonio , where- 
 upon the senoritas opened their big, black eyes, and ejaculated 
 "Mira!" do tell ! 
 
 But all these "funcions" paled before an exhibition by 
 " Una Compaiiia Espanola de Funambulos," under the direc- 
 tion of Sr. D. Pedro Serrate, which came to Leon shortly 
 after our arrival. It made a great sensation amongst the 
 people, whose curiosity was raised to the highest degree by 
 flaming handbills, reciting the wonderful feats to be per- 
 formed by "la hermosissima Jo vena Catalina," " by the 
 the most beautiful young Kitty, " and the equally astonishing 
 extravagances of the " eccentric clown Simon," all of which 
 " the enlightened and dignified public of Leon" (thus ran the 
 
336 
 
 NICARAG UA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 invitation) were solicited to felicitate themselves by witness- 
 ing, — admittance two rials, nifios (little ones) one rial, and 
 nifiitas {very little ones) a medio only. The following Sun- 
 day, at three o'clock, was the time fixed for the performance. 
 We were all specially invited to attend by Senor Serrate in 
 person, and of course accpted the invitation. Meantime the 
 excitement became universal ; it was as good as a revolution, 
 and not half as dangerous. As the time approached, men 
 marched through the streets, beating the rappel at the 
 corners, which was the signal for gathering. The next 
 thing to be seen was a swarm of servants, carrying chairs for 
 their masters and mistresses ; and then came the masters and 
 mistresses themselves, in gala dress. I had not } r et seen such 
 an exhibition of satin slippers ! We fell into the movement, 
 and duly brought up at the house where the " Funambulos" 
 or rope-dancers, had established themselves. It belonged to 
 one of the most respectable citizens of Leon, who had patri- 
 otically permitted it to be used for this interesting occasion. 
 Soldiers were stationed at the door to keep out the rabble, 
 which blockaded the street, and devised all sorts of ingenious 
 methods to get a glimpse of the mysteries within. Here the 
 wife of Senor Serrate received the rials with a courtesy and 
 " mil gracias " for each. The building had a large square 
 court, shaded by high trees, and surrounded by a broad cor- 
 ridor, raised a foot or two above the ground. Upon one 
 side of the courtyard was erected a temporary, carpeted stage, 
 which extended out into the area. Behind this was a gaudily 
 painted curtain, concealing the penetralia within which the 
 performers were to retire after their respective efforts. Alto- 
 gether it was not a bad substitute for a theatre. The corri- 
 dor corresponded to the dress circle, the courtyard to the pit, 
 and the roof to the gallery. But I am at a loss where to 
 class the occupants of the trees ! The place Avas already 
 crowded when we arrived; the Chief of the State, the Gene- 
 ral, in fact all the principal inhabitants, comprising the 
 
UNA COMPANA DE FUNAMBULOS. 
 
 337 
 
 " beauty and fashion of Leon, and full two-thirds of all the 
 padres, were present. All seemed at their ease, and, includ- 
 ing the the ladies, smoked cigaritos. A seat was cleared for 
 me by the side of the General, and the rest of our party took 
 up their positions near by. The orchestra played with terri- 
 ble energy, and some hens, perched amongst a lot of boys, in 
 the trees, frightened at this unusual scene, cackled with equal 
 vigor. The ground within the court was covered with 
 muchachos, and nurses with children, who were wrought up 
 to an alarming state of impatience, and only kept within the 
 bounds of propriety by the canes of the vigilant alcaldes. 
 
 After an interval, a messenger approached the Director, 
 and inquired if it was his pleasure the performance should 
 begin; to which an affirmative response was given. The 
 manager of the " Funambulos" then came forward and an- 
 nounced the " hermosissima Jovena Catalina," who would 
 exhibit her dexterity on the tight rope. The next moment 
 the Jovena advanced, and was, as the newspapers say, " rap- 
 turously received." She was dressed quite after the fashion 
 of similar performers at home, in skirts equally brief, and 
 seemed to me quite as dexterous. But she had monstrous 
 ankles, and a foot none of the smallest, and was unmercifully 
 criticised, particularly by the female spectators. "Mira!" 
 exclaimed a belle by my side, who lifted her tiny hands in 
 astonishment, " Valgame Dios! es una pateza Inglesa/" 
 " See ! Good Heavens ! it is an English paw !" I glanced 
 cautiously down at the little slippered feet at my side — they 
 were really very small. My fair friend saw the movement, 
 but nothing abashed, thrust them out the further, and rogue- 
 ishly inquired, "How do you like them?" I professed to 
 be looking for a fallen cigarito, but the dodge wouldn't 
 answer. The Jovena, in a country where hardly any one 
 who has his peculiarity escapes a nick-name, went afterwards 
 by the unpoetical designation of " Tobillos gruesos" — " Big 
 
 ankles !" 
 
 43 
 
338 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 The Jovena had a sister, who was beautiful, and while she 
 remained in the city, the reigning toast of the young officers 
 and of the gallants generally. She however did not possess 
 the skill of " Tobillos gruesos,"but danced passably, and was 
 very well in pantomime. The " eccentric clown, Simon," 
 seemed to be the most popular feature of the exhibition ; 
 and although he was not always over-delicate, seldom failed 
 to " bring down the house " by his hits. I was not long in 
 discovering that the entire people had a keen appreciation of 
 drollery, and what would perhaps be called "serious jok- 
 ing;" and have often witnessed impromptu scenes amongst 
 the mozos by the roadside, or in the little villages, which were 
 irresistibly comic, and saving time and place, might have 
 been the originals from which Cervantes drew his immortal 
 pictures. 
 
 After the performances on the rope, we had tumbling, in 
 which two smart little boys, sons of the "director" of the 
 Funambules, the clown, and a woman took part. But the 
 Leonesas were shocked that one of the " bello sexo" should 
 descend to that, and expressed their disapprobation in such a 
 manner, that she never made her appearance again in the 
 character of a " volteadora." Then came a pantomime, in 
 which a fussy, gouty Englishman, travelling in Spain, and 
 ignorant of the language, was the principal character. His 
 mishaps created great merriment, and the raggedest boy in 
 the patio seemed glad to have an opportunity of laughing at 
 John Bull ; who, as I have before said, is nowhere in the 
 world more cordially hated than in Nicaragua. 
 
 It was quite sundown when Senor Serrate came forward 
 and thanked his auditors for the honor of their attendance ; 
 and then the Jovena Catalina invited them all, in the choicest 
 Castilian, to come again on the Sunday following. The 
 " Funambulos," I may add, had a brilliant and profitable 
 season of a month ; and when they left, received a testimonial 
 from the citizens, who " thought it worthy of remark, that 
 
VIKW IN LEON. 
 
 339 
 
 in this exhibition the public had not, as on other occasions, 
 been driven to the hard necessity of listening to Indecent 
 dialogues, to the prejudice of morals and good taste, or of 
 abstaining from visiting the exhibition." The " Correo del 
 
 S T !< K E T V I K \V IN I. K O N — C A I, L E I) E S A N J A N 
 
 Istmo" also complimented them as having " performed with 
 skill and excellence," and with these recommendations they 
 departed on a tour of the State. 
 
 I have said, at the commencement of this chapter, that 
 there were no stated amusements in Leon ; perhaps, how- 
 ever, the various fiestas and saints' days should come under 
 that denomination. At any rate they were celebrated in 
 anything but a serious manner; they were general holidays, 
 
340 
 
 NIC ARAG UA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 in which everybody dressed in his best, and the more bom- 
 bas fired and bells rung, the more "alegre" the occasion, and 
 the greater the honor to the saints. As a consequence, 
 being situated in the vicinity of the principal churches, we 
 were treated to a "Fourth of July" as often as twice a week. 
 Sometimes lines of bombas were arranged, not only around 
 the churches, but on their roofs, and over their towers, with 
 large ones at intervals, which, when they exploded, made a 
 noise like a cannon. These were set oif almost invariably 
 in the daytime, and produced a deafening sound, like the 
 rolling discharge of musketry under a cannonade, for nearly 
 half an hour, creating a dense smoke, and filling the air with 
 sulphurous odors. The bells were rung the while, and every- 
 body seemed delighted, and none more so than the muchachos, 
 who, like the gamins de Paris, swarmed everywhere, and 
 were the foremost in all public demonstrations. 
 
 The fiesta of St. Andrew was celebrated with some novel 
 features, and particularly commended itself to the muchachos. 
 It was signalized by "un bade de los demonios," a dance 
 of the devils. The devils were dressed in the most fantast ie 
 manner, wore masks, and sported barbed tails. One shrouded 
 in black displayed a grinning death's head beneath his half- 
 parted veil, and kept time to the music with a pair of verit- 
 able thigh bones. The dance, I should think, had been 
 borrowed from the Indians ; the music certainly was. 
 It was almost unearthly, such as Cortez describes on the 
 night of his retreat from Mexico, " which carried terror to 
 the very souls of the Christians." It is impossible to describe 
 the strange instruments. One consisted of a large calabash, 
 over which was stretched the skin of some animal ; this, 
 when pressed in, recoiled with a dull, sullen noise, like the 
 suppressed bellow of a wild beast, and the wail of some of the 
 long reeds was like that of a man in the agonies of a violent 
 death. The devils went whisking through the principal 
 streets, followed by a gaping crowd, and entered all the prin- 
 
BAILE I)E LOS DEMONIOS. 
 
 341 
 
 cipal houses, where, after a dance in the courtyard, they 
 expected either to receive a rial or two, or to be treated to a 
 dram of agua ardiente. They favored me with an extra dis- 
 play of their demoniacal abilities, — but were high-spirited 
 devils, and declined to receive money from a stranger. 
 
 Another class of dancers, dressed in a profusion of tinsel, 
 but not aspiring to the distinction of devils, parade the streets 
 on certain saints' days, visiting all the houses where the 
 heads of the family bear the name of the saint, where they 
 expect a gratuity or a treat, in return for an exhibition of 
 their skill. As I soon lost all track of the saints, I do not 
 remember which were supposed to be propitious to this kind 
 of diversion. 
 
 All-Saints' day was distinguished by a grand procession of 
 all the saints, not excepting the little ebony San Benito, who, 
 after airing themselves through the principal streets, vis- 
 ited the various churches in succession, including the Cathe- 
 dral of Subtiaba, where there were some very curious and 
 complicated ceremonies. The afternoon of this day was 
 celebrated as a kind of carnival amongst the Indians of that 
 municipality. It is their prerogative, on that occasion, to 
 pelt all visitors with oranges, and to form rings of dancers 
 around them, from which exit can only be procured by the 
 payment of a certain sum to the church. Almost every one 
 in the city went down, including the officers of State, whose 
 position gave them no immunity, — on the contrary, they got 
 more than their just share of the pelting. But as the visitors 
 are usually mounted, a rapid retreat is always made, when 
 the storm of the golden missiles grows too severe. I made 
 it a point of duty to see everything, and accordingly rode to 
 Subtiaba just before sunset, where the first object I saw was 
 a venerable Doctor of Medicine, bareheaded, spurring at full 
 speed, and dodging from side to side under a shower of 
 oranges discharged upon him from an ambuscade. For it 
 is considered a capital joke with the muchachos, to lie in 
 
U2 
 
 N IC ARAGUA — NAR RATI VE. 
 
 wait under a ruin, or amongst the bushes, and let off a volley 
 upon the unsuspecting horseman. When I entered the 
 plaza it was occupied by groups of people, moving from side 
 to side, shouting and laughing, in a furor of excitement and 
 frolic, while the air was full of missiles. A few were dis- 
 charged at me, but as soon as I was recognized, I was 
 exempted from the usual ordeal. Suddenly I saw a move- 
 ment in the direction of the cabildo, and the next moment, 
 was saluted with " Yivan los Estados Unidos!" " Vivanlos 
 amigos de Nicaragua!" These were given with the greatest 
 
 enthusiasm. 1 
 
 Posts were planted around the plaza, to which a double 
 
 line of bombas was attached. These were to be let off (for 
 
 a wonder) after dark, and my friend Simon Eoque was 
 
 urgent that I should stay to witness the explosion, and 
 
 even offered to anticipate the hour fixed for lighting them; 
 
 but I had had enough of bombas for a lifetime, and rode 
 
 home in the twilight. The streets were full of life, and the 
 
 band stationed upon the steps of the grand Cathedral played 
 
 ' On the day set apart for the festival of All Saints, the shops are closed 
 and business suspended. About ten o'clock the procession commences 
 from the Cathedral. A troop of military, marching to a slow time, lead 
 the way, and are followed by six of the finest Indian girls that can be 
 procured, bearing large wax candles, and dressed in the ancient costumes 
 of their tribes, accompanied by the great drum, carried on the back of an 
 Indian, and beaten by two others. These are succeeded by men bearing 
 on their shoulders wooden platforms, on which are placed images of saints. 
 Other representations of beatified cardinals and bishqps follow, escorted 
 by angels with spreading wings. Then succeeds an immense statue of St. 
 Peter, bearing tin; keys, and supported by angels on each side. Other 
 images pass forward in succession, and immediately precede the Host, 
 which is carried under a splendid canopy, and accompanied by the arch- 
 bishop and the dignified clergy. The various orders of friars, the priests, 
 and the collegiate students, in their robes, follow ; and fresh images of 
 saints and angels, with a new troop of military, bring up (lie rear. . . 
 The setting out and return to the Cathedral are notified by frequent dis- 
 charges of sky-rockets." — Dunn's Quatemaht. p. 11-1. 
 
EVENING SPECULATION'S. 
 
 348 
 
 the national anthem, while the soldiers grouped around the 
 various " cuartels" joined in the chorus. For once, thanks 
 to the darkness, I escaped the eternal presentation of arms 
 and beat of drum, with which I was always received in the 
 plaza, and which induced me to avoid entering it, except in 
 cases of necessity. I sat on my horse for a quarter of an 
 hour, listening to the music and the merriment, and % specu- 
 lated whether, after all, spite of unstable governments, and 
 destitute of all those accessories which, according to our utili- 
 tarian ideas, are necessary to the popular welfare, — whether 
 the people of Leon were not on the whole happier and more 
 contented than those of any city of equal size in our own 
 country ? Here were no crowded workshops, where youth 
 and age toil on, on, during the long day and by the pale gas 
 light, amidst foul vapors, or in a corrupted atmosphere, that 
 trade may thrive, and arrogant commerce strut in the Ex- 
 change ! No thundering machines to disturb the calm of 
 evening, to drown the murmurs of the night winds and the 
 gentle melody of the falling dews, with their hoarse, un- 
 earthly clangor ! 
 
 N I C -V R A G U A X PLOUGH. 
 
CHAPTEE XIII. 
 
 A SORTIE FROM LEON — QUESALOUAQUE EL ESTERO DE DONA PAULA THE 
 
 " MONTE DE SAN JUAN " SUMMARY WAY OK DISPOSING OF " LADRONES " 
 
 "EL TIGRE," JAGUAR, OR OUNCE J ITS HABITS J HOW HUNTED — THE " LEON," 
 
 OR PUMA — THE " COYOTE " POSULTEGA — A SPECIMEN PADRE — SOBRINAS — 
 
 CHICHIGALPA POISED THUNDER-STORM — THE ORACION HACIENDA OF SAN 
 
 ANTONIO — CHINANDEGA A CHALLENGE — EL YIEJO FAMILIAR FIXTURES 
 
 AN ENTERPRISING CITIZEN AND HIS TRAGIC FATE A DECAYING TOWN — MULES 
 
 VS. HORSES — VISIT TO THE nACIENDAS AN INDIGO ESTATE, AND A MAYOR- 
 
 DOMO — FINE VIEW THE SUGAR ESTATE OF SAN GERONIMO BACHELOR QUAR- 
 TERS AND HACIENDA LIFE A FRUIT GARDEN TUE BREAD FRUIT SUGAR- 
 MILLS, AND THE MANUFACTURE OF AGUARDIENTE — A SINFUL SIESTA VISIT 
 
 FROM THE MUNICIPALITY " UNA CANCION" CHINANDEGA BY DAYLIGHT 
 
 REALEJO — PORT AND HARBOR THE PROGRESS OF ENTERPRISE THE PROJECTED 
 
 NEW TOWN OF CORINTn RETURN TO LEON. 
 
 Early after our arrival in Leon, amongst many others 
 of like character, we had received an invitation from the 
 wealthy and influential family of Venerio, to spend a week 
 at their establishment inViejo Chinandega; which, as it was 
 coupled with a promise to give us an initiation into the 
 mysteries of hacienda life, we had at once accepted. Up to 
 this time, however (Sept. 3, 1849), I had been unable to 
 leave the capital. But now my official negotiations were 
 happily terminated, and pending the action of the Legislative 
 Chambers, which were called to meet on the 22d of the same 
 month, I had an opportunity of seeing something more of 
 the magnificent plain, in the centre of which we were re- 
 siding. 
 
 I have already said that, for obvious reasons, most of the 
 travelling in Central America is done in the morning or 
 44 
 
346 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 evening. It was four o'clock in the afternoon, therefore, 
 when we started for El Viejo, twelve leagues, or thirty-six 
 miles distant. This, with us, would be considered quite a 
 day's journey in itself, but here it is what is called an evening 
 "paseo," or ride. Our course led through Subtiaba, crossing 
 the stream which flows past that pueblo at a place where art 
 had cut down the steep banks, and nature woven an ever- 
 green roof above — one of those dark, coo^ nooks in which 
 the water birds love to gather, and where the Indian girls 
 come to bathe — beyond which spread out the luxuriant 
 maize fields, traversed by hedge rows like the lines on a 
 chess board. The road, bordered with trees, to protect the 
 traveller from the sun, wound amongst these fields for five 
 or six miles, when it entered the forest again, and soon 
 came to a dee]? ravine, with abrupt banks, seventy or eighty 
 feet high, at the bottom of which flows a large clear stream, 
 called, at this point, Quesalguaque. It rises near the volcano 
 of Telica, and for some distance from its source it bears the 
 name of Eio Telica. It flows into the harbor of Realejo, 
 and for a number of leagues from its mouth, is a tide-water 
 stream, and called "El Estero de Dona Paula." 
 
 This is the largest stream on the plain of Leon, and is pro- 
 bably that to which some map-makers have given the name 
 of Kio Tosta. The cart-road descends the ravine circuitously, 
 and ascends in like manner ; traversing nearly a mile in 
 passing from one bank to the other. The mule-road, how- 
 ever, is direct, but the descent and ascent are both abrupt 
 and difficult. I hardly thought cither possible, and was 
 really amazed to find my horse attempt them without so 
 much as the touch of the spur, and quite as a matter of 
 course. Emerging from the ravine, we came to some cleared 
 fields, (one of which was planted with pine-apples, now 
 nearly ripe, and looking wonderfully tempting in the sun), 
 m the midst of which was a small collection of huts, called 
 the Pueblecita de Quesalguaque. We stopped for a moment 
 
AN EPISODE 0N T WILD BEASTS. 
 
 347 
 
 to fill our pockets with delicious nisperos from a tree over- 
 hanging the road, its treasures free to all who chose "to 
 come and eat," and then diverging from the camino real, 
 struck into the narrow mule-path which leads through the 
 Monte de San Juan. This portion of the road has a bad 
 reputation throughout the whole country; and during the 
 late troubles had been the scene of several tragic occur- 
 rences. The robbers or ladrones who infested it, however, 
 had been hunted by volunteers from Leon and Chinendaga, 
 and shot down like wild beasts; asununary, but most effectual 
 way of preventing further depredations. At one point we 
 passed a number of newly-erected crosses, marking the place 
 where murder had been done. But all was still and peace- 
 ful now, and we saw nothing to startle us except a Tigre, 
 which leaped across the path a few paces in advance, disap- 
 pearing instantaneously in the forest. 
 
 What is here called the Tigre or Tiger, is the true Jaguar, or 
 Ounce; and the animal which is called the Lion is the mane- 
 less Mexican Lion, or Puma. Ounces are abundant through- 
 out the entire country, and often commit serious depreda- 
 tions upon the cattle of the haciendas. They are of a tawny 
 color, the body beautifully variegated with irregular oblong 
 black spots, breast and belly whitish. They grow to the 
 length of lour or live feet, are powerfully built, with massive 
 jaws, and possess a strength and activity superior to any of 
 the feline race of equal size. They unhesitatingly attack all 
 animals, of whatever proportions, which are not fully capable 
 of defending themselves; and in riding through the woods I 
 have several times seen full grown heifers, which they had 
 not only killed, but dragged to considerable distances, — in 
 one instance not less than a hundred yards. 
 
 The Tigre, however, sometimes meets his match in a 
 sturdy bull or spirited cow, and is compelled to retreat. The 
 vaqueros of the haciendas, who are fluent on the subject of 
 tigers, and often able to show ghastly scars in confirmation 
 
348 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 of their stories of adventures, relate instances in which the 
 tiger has been killed outright in his encounters with the 
 toros. A ball of venerable aspect, but exceedingly mild 
 demeanor, was pointed out to me in Honduras, which was 
 the hero of many battles, successful in all, and in three in- 
 stances killing his adversary. I quite respected this pro- 
 tector of his herd, and thought he should at least receive the 
 title of the " Great Defender." The herdsmen concur in say- 
 ing that the tiger is generally too cunning to attack the cat- 
 tle, except singly, when separated from each other, as they 
 all make common cause against him when he ventures 
 amongst the herd. The ounce seldom attacks man, unless 
 pressed by hunger, or by the hunters. This is a fortunate 
 circumstance; for otherwise travelling in Central America, 
 where, in the secluded parts of the country, hardly a day 
 passes without seeing one or two of them, would be attended 
 with the greatest danger. In some localities, however, the 
 ounce is represented to be more ferocious than in others, and 
 so bold as to slip into the villages in broad daylight, in search 
 of his prey. There are many men distinguished for success 
 in hunting this animal, who arrogate to themselves the title 
 of tigreros. They use no arms, except a long and stout 
 spear or lance, and their machetes. Their first object, with 
 the aid of dogs, is to drive the tiger into a tree, or bring him 
 to bay. When this is clone, the tigrero wraps his poncho 
 around his left arm, and approaches the fierce and excited 
 animal, with his lance so fixed as to be able to receive him 
 on its point when he shall make his spring. This requires 
 great coolness and firmness, for everything depends upon the 
 hunter planting his spear full in the animal's breast. If this 
 be not done, a terrible fight ensues, from which the strongest 
 and bravest man is fortunate if he escapes with life. The 
 genuine tigrero scorns to use firearms, — " no tiene valor, 
 nada," they are of no use, none ! Some of these men num- 
 ber their victories by scores, and are considered invincible. 
 
THE PUMA AND COYOTE. 
 
 :M'.i 
 
 The tigre negro, or black ounce, is erroneously regarded 
 by the natives as a distinct species ; and, perhaps from his 
 more forbidding appearance, is supposed to be stronger and 
 fiercer. They arc undoubtedly a little larger in size than 
 the other variety. In Nicaragua they are rarely seen, but 
 are quite abundant, it is said, in the mountainous districts 
 of Honduras. 
 
 The Lion, or Puma, notwithstanding his name, has fewer 
 of the traditional magnanimous traits of the lion proper 
 than the tigre. lie is altogether a sneaking fellow, and at- 
 tacks cattle only when he finds them wounded, entangled in 
 thickets, or embarrassed in swamps, where he has everything 
 to his own advantage. He flics from man, but will prowl 
 stealthily after him in the evening, like the wolf. He is 
 consequently approached with difficulty, and rarely killed. 
 His color is a pale, brownish red, inclining to black on the 
 back, but light under the belly. In shape he is slenderer 
 than the ounce, his legs and tail longer, and his claws and 
 head slighter. " A full grown tiger," said an old hunter to 
 me, "is a match for half a dozen of the cowards." The 
 weary traveller, sleeping in the forest, has more to dread 
 from the puma than any other wild animal. Besides the 
 ounce and the puma, there arc several varieties of tiger, or 
 mountain cats, which commit depredations on the fowls and 
 smaller domestic animals of the ranchos, but from whom 
 man has nothing to fear. 
 
 The " coyote," wild dog, or as he is sometimes called, 
 wolf, is common in some parts of Central America. I never 
 saw any of them, but they are said to differ as widely from 
 the true wolf as from the common dog. Some have conjee 
 tured that they are descended from the bloodhounds which 
 were used by the early Spaniards in hunting down the na- 
 tives. But all attempts to reclaim them, although carried on 
 during two or three generations, have failed. Like wolves, 
 they generally hunt in packs, making no noise beyond a low 
 
350 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 howl, and follow their prey with a perseverance which is 
 almost always successful in the end. It is said that, al- 
 though individually arrant cowards, they will collectively 
 attack the tiger himself, drive him into a tree, and besiege 
 him for many days, until exhausted, in attempting to escape, 
 he falls ;i victim to the number of his assailants. The natives 
 have a singular notion, however, that the coyotes never 
 beleaguer the tigre unless he has committed some outrage on 
 the fraternity, robbed them of their prey, or made a meal of 
 some straggler. 
 
 To return from this digression. Two leagues beyond 
 Quesalguaque, the intervening country level and magnifi- 
 cently wooded, and the road broad and smooth, is the 
 Pueblo of Posultega, an unpretending town of some five or 
 six hundred inhabitants, and distinguished f.or nothing ex- 
 cept an ancient church, more remarkable for its dilapidation 
 than its architecture. The cura, who had called on me in 
 Leon a few days before, was swinging in his hammock, be- 
 tween a couple of orange trees in front of his house ; he 
 leaped up as we approached, stopped me in the open street, 
 and gave me an embrace " as was an embrace," and from 
 my elevated position on my horse, quite too near the belt to 
 be comfortable. He insisted on our stopping for the rest of 
 the afternoon and for the night at his poor house, (every 
 house in Central America is called " mi pobre cam" by its 
 owner), which I declined doing with a prodigious affectation 
 of regret, that became real a moment after, when I discov- 
 ered the padre's sobrina or niece, a fair, full-breasted girl, 
 peeping slyly out between the bars of the window. Of 
 course it is not reputable for padres to have females in their 
 establishments, except near relatives, — aunts for housekeep- 
 ers, and nieces for companions ! The aunts, I observed, 
 
 were always old, but the nieces almost invariably young and 
 pretty, as nieces are bound to be. 
 
 The country, from Posultega to Chichigalpa, a consider- 
 
''■':' ■ I 
 
 . Jfltfr 
 
CHICHIGALPA. 
 
 351 
 
 able town, two leagues further on, preserves its flat surface, 
 the monotony but slightly relieved by the occasional narrow 
 and shallow channels which carry off the superabundant 
 water of the rainy season. Chichigalpa, formerly a very 
 largo Indian town, still numbers from three to five thousand 
 inhabitants; it is regularly laid out, and has a neat and 
 attractive appearance. It Avas just sunset when we entered 
 its streets. A heavy thunder-storm was piling up its black 
 volumes behind the volcanoes in the east, and the calm and 
 silence which precede the tempest rested upon the plain ; 
 the winds were still, and the leaves hung motionless on the 
 trees. The adult inhabitants seemed to sympathize with the 
 scene, and sat silently in the open doorways ; but the chil- 
 dren were as playful and noisy as ever, their voices rendered 
 doubly distinct, and almost unnatural in the pervading quiet. 
 Suddenly the bell of the oracion struck ; the careless voices 
 of the children were instantaneously hushed, and we mechan- 
 ically stopped our horses, and uncovered our heads. A low 
 murmur of prayer floated forth on the undulating waves of 
 sound which seemed to subside in circles around us ; — again 
 the bell struck, again, and then, when the pulses had almost 
 ceased to beat, that the straining ear might catch the expiring 
 vibrations, rolled in the muffled sound of the distant thunder. 
 It came down from the mountains with the majesty of an 
 ocean poured along their trembling sides ! 
 
 The oracion, which never fails to impress the most careless 
 traveller with a feeling of reverential awe, was but one ele- 
 ment in this grand combination of the solemn and the sub- 
 lime. 
 
 We rode through Chichigalpa without stopping, and 
 pressed rapidly forward, with the design of reaching the es- 
 tate of San Antonio, belonging to the family of my com- 
 panion, before the storm should overtake us. Darkness, 
 however, closed speedily around our path, and in ten min- 
 utes we were unable to discover our position, except as it 
 
352 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 I 
 
 was revealed to us by the lightning, which occasionally 
 poured in lurid, blinding sheets, from the summits of the vol- 
 canoes, where the storm seemed to pause as if to concentrate 
 its gloomy squadrons, before moving down upon the silent 
 plain, and forth upon the dark Pacific. Fortunately the 
 road was wide, and permitted us to ride rapidly, without any 
 great danger from the projecting branches. We reached San 
 Antonio, eight miles from Chichigalpa, in an hour. 
 
 The resident on the estate was an uncle of my companion, 
 an amiable and gentlemanly person, who apologized for not 
 coming to the door to receive us. His apology was a valid 
 one. He had led the hunt after the ladrones who had in- 
 fested the road to Leon, and had received a ball in his hip, 
 in the final encounter with them. "We were at once offered a 
 cup of chocolate, which we accepted, in deference not less to 
 our own tastes than to a sensible practice of the country, 
 which is always to take whatever is tendered to you. Thus 
 a caballero is offered a cigar ; he at once accepts it with a 
 bow, or " mil gracias," a thousand thanks, and if he does not 
 care to smoke, puts it in his pocket. This will occur during 
 the same sitting as often as the cigars are passed. With 
 chocolate the case is a little different ; it is not easily put in 
 one's pocket, and is therefore otherwise disposed of. The 
 house ;it San Antonio, I observed as soon as I entered it, 
 was superior to any of the hacienda residences which had 
 yet fallen under my notice. It was not only well construct- 
 ed, but conveniently arranged, and painted in the interior. 
 It had been built by a Mr. Bridge, an Englishman, who had 
 established here one of the finest sugar plantations in the 
 country. In common with most of the English residents, he 
 had married a woman of the country, and what with trade, 
 his hacienda, and an English vessel-of-war, always conve- 
 niently at hand to enforce any claim which he and his Eng- 
 lish brethren might find it profitable to set up against the 
 government, had contrived to amass a considerable fortune. 
 
CHINANDEGA. 
 
 353 
 
 Upon his death, however, the estate had been sold to its 
 present proprietors, and although it had fallen somewhat out 
 of repair, it still showed what might be accomplished in this 
 favored land, with a very moderate share of enterprise and 
 industry. 
 
 The wind had sprung up, and carried the impending storm 
 off to the southward ; so, after waiting half an hour at San 
 Antonio, we again mounted and pursued our course. By 
 the dim, reviving light, I could make out that we were now 
 in an open and highly cultivated country, sprinkled over 
 with houses. Half an hour more brought us to the suburbs 
 of Chinandega, probably the most flourishing town in the 
 State, and the only one, I believe, which has increased in 
 population since the independence. The commerce of Eeal- 
 ejo is conducted through it ; here nearly all the merchants 
 reside ; and the inhabitants, some fifteen or sixteen thousand 
 in number, are conceded to be the most industrious and 
 thriving of any in the Republic. 
 
 It was too dark to distinguish anything beyond long, 
 broad avenues, bordered with gardens, each one having a 
 hut in the centre. The streets; really seemed endless, and we 
 passed square on square, for full a mile and a half, before we 
 reached the paved streets surrounding the plazas, where the 
 adobe and tile-roofed houses are built, and where the 
 wealth and trade is concentrated. The people were still sit- 
 ting at their doors and windows, in luxurious enjoyment of 
 the cool breeze which the passing storm had evoked some- 
 where beyond the mountains. We would have ridden di- 
 rectly through the plaza, but were stopped by the sudden 
 ring of a musket on the pavement, and a fierce order to halt 
 and give the countersign. We did so, and then supposed we 
 might go on. But the sentinel demanded that we should 
 advance singly, and called to the officer of the guard. Find- 
 ing that we should probably be detained for an indefinite 
 period, I whispered to my companion to fall back, and avoid 
 45 
 
354 
 
 NI C ARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 the plaza by making a circuit around it. He did so, mutter- 
 ing something about the stupid military, which might have 
 cost him dear had it been overheard. A long detour brought 
 us to the other side of the town, which is bounded by a con- 
 siderable stream, flowing through a deep hollow. The path 
 to the water was broad, and artificially graded, so, notwith- 
 standing the darkness, we passed without difficulty. We 
 were now in the plain road to El Viejo, and a brisk ride 
 through the intermediate fields and the silent suburbs, 
 brought us to a large house, fronting on the plaza. We 
 stopped before a high and imposing portal, the massive gales 
 of which parted in answer to the well known voice of my 
 companion. In another instant we were beneath the trees 
 in the courtyard, in the full blaze of hospitable lights, stream- 
 ing through the open doors of the grand sala, where our 
 friends were awaiting our arrival. 
 
 Upon entering the house, I was surprised to find myself 
 surrounded by nearly all the well-known furniture of a parlor 
 in New York. Ilere were sofas and rocking-chairs, and 
 mirrors and clocks, of familiar fashion, holding something 
 more than their own against hammocks and hide-bottomed 
 sillas. A portrait of Washington and a fac-simile of the De- 
 claration of Independence were suspended against the walls, 
 and a bust of Shakspeare tilled a vacant place on a little shelf 
 in a distant corner. A clear blue eye, a rosy cheek, and the 
 pleasant sound of our native tongue were alone needed to 
 complete an illusion, in which the full form, the classic pro- 
 file, pale complexion, large and liquid eyes, the stately grace, 
 and low but cordial welcome of the mistress of the mansion, 
 did not permit me to indulge. 
 
 I have said that the family whose hospitable courtesies I 
 was now enjoying, was one of the wealthiest, and socially 
 one of the most influential in the country. Yet its history 
 for the past fifteen or twenty years is unfortunately too 
 truthful an illustration of what the condition of the country 
 
A TRAGIC STORY. 
 
 355 
 
 has been during that disastrous period. Don Gregorio Ve- 
 nerio, the late head of the family, was one of the few men 
 which Central America has afforded, possessing enterprise, 
 a liberal and enlightened spirit, and that sound philosophy 
 which consists in a practical disposition to make the best of 
 existing circumstances. Overcoming most of the narrow 
 prejudices which had grown up under the rigorous colonial 
 system of Spain, and which lettered the mass of the people 
 for a long time after the independence, he introduced im- 
 provements in agriculture, new machinery in the manufac- 
 ture of sugar, and the preparation of cotton and indigo for 
 foreign markets, and with a true patriotism and public spirit 
 sought to direct the general attention to useful occupations 
 and the development of the natural resources of the country, 
 as the best means of insuring civil order and stability in 
 government. His labors were, for a time, eminently success- 
 ful, and he gave an impulse to industry and trade in the 
 section of the state in which he resided, which has since 
 doubled its wealth and influence. But envious and evil dis- 
 posed persons were not wanting to misrepresent his motives, 
 and to awaken distrust of the objects which he aimed to 
 accomplish. The hostility of the ignorant masses was ex- 
 eiteil against him and his family ; his machinery, it was said, 
 would depreciate wages, and his products destroy the market 
 for the productions of smaller proprietors. The ultimate 
 result may be anticipated. The robber chieftain, Somoza, 
 whose violent end I have already recounted, at the head of 
 a band of assassins and robbers, entered his house at night, 
 dragged him from his bed, and butchered him in cold blood, 
 in the presence of his entire family, in the very room where 
 1 was now seated. Yet, up to the time of my arrival, the 
 murderer had escaped apprehension and defied justice. 
 
 El Viejo Chinandega, Old Chinandega, or as it is briefly 
 called El Viejo, is one of the most ancient towns in Nicara- 
 gua. It is beautifully situated upon a stream which flows 
 
356 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 through, its centre, and contains between five and six thousand 
 inhabitants. Formerly it was the principal town, next to 
 Leon, in this department, and was the seat of the trade carried 
 on through the port of Kealejo. 'But the new town is located 
 more favorably for commerce, and as that has increased in 
 importance, El Viejo has declined. During the supremacy of 
 the bucaneers in the South Sea, El Viejo was several times 
 attacked, and once or twice burned. It has a large church, 
 of high, antiquity, situated upon an artificial terrace in the 
 midst of a plaza. A fantastic wall runs along the edge of 
 the terrace, and above each flight of steps, by which it is 
 ascended, are lofty arches of fine proportions, which lend a 
 very singular effect to the whole structure. Architecturally, 
 El Viejo affords no other object of interest. 
 
 After breakfast, on the morning following our arrival, we 
 started on a visit to the haciendas, or plantations, belonging 
 to the family. I had a strong prejudice against mules, but 
 my host quietly insisted that I should ride his macho, a sleek- 
 looking, clean-limbed animal, upon which my saddle had 
 already been placed. I complied without, at the moment, 
 fully comprehending the reason of the request. But no 
 sooner had we struck into the main road, than I found that, 
 in respect of speed and of ease to the rider, no horse was 
 comparable to the splendid animal upon which I was mount- 
 ed. Without an apparent effort, and quite as a matter of 
 course, he distanced all the horses of the party, and at what 
 appeared to be his ordinary pace, kept them at a sharp gal- 
 lop. "That macho," said my host, "cost me three hundred 
 dollars ; and I have ridden him sixty miles in six consecutive 
 hours !" AVhen I add that ordinary mules here cost only 
 about twenty dollars, and that this one was valued at three 
 hundred and fifty, the difference between them is brought to 
 some standard of calculation. The pace is artificial; and 
 when what is called "a good education" is joined to good 
 proportions, soundness of limb, and high spirit, (for they 
 
ABANDONED ESTATES. 
 
 357 
 
 differ widely in this respect,) mules are esteemed infinitely 
 higher than horses. Their endurance is incredible, and they 
 have the ability to take care of themselves where a horse 
 would starve. 
 
 Ai the distance of a league from the town, we turned into 
 a beautiful shaded lane, or avenue, running through the 
 broad estates which we had come to visit. The fields, with 
 the exception of one or two which were planted with maize, 
 were overgrown with weeds. I inquired the cause, and was 
 told that these were indigo grounds, the cultivation of which 
 had been suspended from the impossibility of securing per- 
 manent laborers ; for the processes in manufacturing the 
 indigo are so delicate, that any deficiency in attention ruins 
 the entire crop. "When affairs became fully settled, it was 
 intended to resume the cultivation of this valuable product ; 
 but until then, the ground, dams, vats, and machinery were 
 valueless property. In the centre of this portion of the es- 
 tate, on an eminence near an artificial pond covered with 
 water plants, and constructed for supplying the indigo works, 
 was the house of the superintendent, — a large two-story edi- 
 fice, with a double corridor on every side, and surrounded 
 by a little forest of magnificent trees, relieved by towering 
 palms and the green columns of the cactus. The mayor- 
 domo, a venerable old man with his head bound in a varie- 
 gated handkerchief, white shirt and breeches, and red shoes, 
 himself one of the fixtures of the estate, received each of us 
 with a hearty embrace, and then led us up a flight of broad 
 stone steps, to the upper corridor, Here were the old man's 
 daughters, three pretty, blushing girls, who were introduced 
 individually as Paula, Manuelita, and Concepcion. "Their 
 mother is a saint," said he, as he gazed on them with an ex- 
 pression of pride; "but happier times are coming for our 
 poor country, and they will live to see them, I am sure I" 
 and he tottered off, to procure " alguna fresca." 
 
 From the corridor we enjoyed a magnificent view of field 
 
358 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 and forest, stretching away in billows of verdure to the base 
 of the volcano of El Viejo, lifting its purple summit to mid- 
 heaven, beyond and over all. I ventured to imagine the 
 intervening plain in the hands of an enterprising and vigor- 
 ous people, dotted over with villages, and loaded down with 
 the richest products of all-bountifal Nature, and queried if 
 this generation might not witness the change. Let the bab- 
 bler about impossibilities, in this first decade of the last half 
 of the nineteenth century, turn his eyes to the shores of the 
 Bay of San Francisco, be silent, and mark the reality ! 
 
 From the indigo estate, bearing the name of some favorite 
 saint, which I have forgotten, we rode a mile or two further, 
 to the sugar plantation of San Geronimo. The ground 
 which it occupies is perfectly level, and by means of ditches, 
 designed particularly for purposes of irrigation, is laid out 
 in squares, or manzanas. The cane on some of these squares 
 had been newly planted, and on others lately cut, while 
 upon others it was now in perfection, and ready for use. 
 The mills are here kept running steadily the year round, and 
 by the time the cutters have gone through all the fields, those 
 which were first cleared are ready for the knife a second 
 time. Under favorable circumstances, three crops can be 
 taken yearly ; and the ground does not require to be re- 
 planted oftener than once in ten or fourteen years. 
 
 A two-story house, newer and better built than that which 
 I have already described, stood upon one side of the cane- 
 fields, on the banks of a stream, and in the vicinity of the 
 mills. It was approached by a broad avenue, kept scrupu- 
 lously clean, and its white walls and red roof stood out 
 against a dense background of trees, now in the perfection 
 of their foliage, and loaded with fruit. The lower story was 
 occupied by the mayor-domo and his family, and the upper 
 by a bachelor brother of our host, whom we found in his 
 shirt sleeves, swinging in a hammock suspended in the cor- 
 ridor on the shaded side of the building, and engaged in 
 
HACIENDA LIFE. 
 
 359 
 
 reading a translation of Sue's Mysteries of Paris! lie rose 
 hastily, uttered some indistinct apologies, and led us into the 
 body of the building, where in an instant we were surrounded 
 by a playful troop of blooded dogs, which our friend, who 
 was a good deal of a Nimrod, had expressly imported from 
 England and the United States. In one corner of the room 
 stood an elegant rifle, with a brace of pistols, a sword, and a 
 variety of bits and spurs grouped around it. In another 
 corner was a guitar and a saddle, and on the table, in that 
 delightful confusion seen only in bachelor establishments, a 
 flute, some music, and books, and an infinity of cigars. An 
 engraved portrait of Lola Montez was the only decoration 
 on the walls, unless the skin of a monstrous tigre, stretched 
 at one end of the apartment, might be called a decoration. 
 
 From the corridor, the eye traversed broad fields of cane, 
 framed in by a dense forest, the view opening only to- 
 wards the east, where the perspective of fields terminated, in 
 the distance, with the tiled roof of the house belonging to 
 the indigo estate, but half seen amidst the surrounding trees. 
 A creaking cart came up the broad avenue towards us, 
 loaded with stalks of the cafia, which were piled in heaps in 
 front of the mills situated in the valley of the stream, and 
 partially concealed by the vapors rising lazily from the boil- 
 ing kettles in which the juice was evaporated. The mozos 
 engaged in the various processes moved about with a slow 
 and careless air, in perfect harmony with the general quiet 
 of the scenery, and in unison with the monotonous clatter of 
 the mill, which seemed to be half asleep, and just about to 
 stop altogether. I sat down in a vacant hammock, and for 
 the first time fully comprehended the charms of hacienda 
 life, — that aimless, dreamy existence, undisturbed by ambi- 
 tion or envy, and separated from the struggle of conflicting 
 interests. Our bachelor friend vegetated here month after 
 month, without a wish ungratilied, making the most of the 
 present, and careless of the future. Occasionally, he said, 
 
360 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 his slumbering energies would be roused for a moment, but 
 lacking legitimate objects to occupy them, soon subsided 
 again, and the stream of life flowed on as before. A turn 
 with his dogs in the morning, a stroll of supervision through 
 the mills, chocolate, a book, the hammock, and the siesta, — 
 these, with now and then a ride to the village, or on extra- 
 ordinary occasions a rapid descent of a single day on Leon, 
 made up the sum of life. 
 
 Connected with this estate was a "hucrta de las fruitas," 
 a fruit garden, upon which the late Don Gregorio had ex- 
 pended a great deal of money and care. It covered several 
 acres of ground, — a wilderness of oranges and lemons, white 
 and yellow pine apples, melons, mamays, maranons, jocotes, 
 limes, citrons, guavas, tamarinds, — in short all the innume- 
 rable varieties of tropical fruits and flowers, traversed by 
 broad walks, here a vista terminating in a bower, and there 
 ending with a glimpse of the deep pools of the neighboring 
 stream ; the whole surrounded by an evergreen hedge of 
 cactuses, in full bloom, and loading the air with fragrance. 
 Plere was the odorous sweet lemon, and in the centre of the 
 garden a group of bread-fruit trees, remarkable for their 
 broad, deep green leaves, amongst which might be discerned 
 the nuts, looking for all the world like the heads of young 
 darkies. These trees had been introduced by Don Gregorio 
 from the Sandwich Islands, and flourished quite as luxuri- 
 antly as in their native soil. But the fruit did not " take" 
 with the Nicaraguenses, who preferred the tortilla and the 
 plantain ; the tree is therefore propagated solely from mo- 
 tives of curiosity. 
 
 From the garden we went to the mills. The machinery in 
 use had all been imported from England and the United 
 States, via Cape Horn. There was first the crushing or 
 grinding mill, from which a copper conductor carried the 
 juice through a strainer into a vat, communicating by means 
 of tubes with the coppers or cauldrons. From these, when 
 
MANUFACTURE OF SUGAR. 
 
 361 
 
 the reduction and clarification were sufficiently far advanced, 
 the liquid was drawn off into other coppers, whence the scum 
 was constantly removed, and thrown into a large trough, to 
 be used in the distillation of aguardiente. When reduced 
 to a certain strength or thickness, the sugar was transferred 
 do the coolers and strainers, where the graining took place, 
 and the molasses was separated. A large portion of the 
 sugar is not subjected to this process, but while in its crude 
 state, is laded into moulds of a certain size, forming what is 
 called chancaca, sold for ordinary consumption amongst the 
 poorer classes, at a quartillo (three cents) the cake, equiva- 
 lent to about one cent and a half the ponnd. The finer 
 qualities of sugar produced on this estate are nearly as white 
 and hard as the refined sugars of commerce. Connected with 
 these works is a complete apparatus for distilling aguar- 
 diente, capable of an indefinite production of that article of 
 consumption. But this is a government esta?ico, or monopo- 
 ly, and it cannot be manufactured on private account. The 
 fact that the late Don Grcgorio had obtained the contract for 
 supplying the government, was one of the causes of hostility 
 to him amongst the smaller proprietors, whose rude but 
 costly modes of distillation were entirely supplanted by the 
 introduction of his improved machinery. This hostility had 
 not yet died out, and the family meditated throwing up the 
 contract, and discontinuing the manufacture altogether, as 
 the easiest mode of relieving themselves from the popular 
 odium which it excited. We can hardly understand how 
 such prejudices should exist, but it is nevertheless a fact that, 
 at the first, every improvement in the useful arts, all social 
 progress, and every advance in government, philosophy, and 
 religion, have the world over been met and opposed in pre- 
 cisely the same spirit, and from precisely the same motives. 
 
 Upon our return to the house, we found a table spread 
 with the rarest collection of tropical fruits and luxuries 
 which I had yet seen, and which might have excited the 
 46 
 
362 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 envy of a king. We had "frescas" compounded from the 
 maranon, the orange, and the juice of the cocoanut, slightly 
 dashed with aguardiente, the coolest and most refreshing 
 imaginable ; and melons — such melons! And when we came 
 to lie down in our respective hammocks, beneath the shaded 
 corridor, for the afternoon siesta, it was unanimously voted 
 that, with our present limited information on the subject of 
 Paradise, we should be quite willing to accept perpetual 
 youth and hacienda life "down" rather than incur the risk 
 of attaining the former! "Opinions may differ about the 
 propriety of confessing it," said W., "but really,*' and he 
 took a long and lazy pull at his cigar, " I think this is quite 
 good enough for a miserable sinner like myself I " 
 
 The smoke wreathed slowly up from each hammock, the 
 mill clattered drowsily, and we slept until the cool evening 
 wind, gathering strength as the sun declined, began to 
 rustle amongst the orange trees which grew beside the cor- 
 ridor, and the creaking carts, which had stood idle during 
 the heat of the day, again begun to move in the direction of 
 the cane fields. A hacienda dinner, and a cheery ride 
 townward, in the twilight, completed the day ; and we went 
 to bed that night, with a most satisfactory conception of ha- 
 cienda life. 
 
 I had flattered myself that my visit to El Viejo was un- 
 known beyond the family with which we were stopping ; I 
 had, in fact, stipulated with our host, that our incognito 
 should be rigidly preserved, lie was, therefore, a good deal 
 embarrassed, and I was not a little annoyed, when he an- 
 nounced the next morning at breakfast, that the municipality 
 of the town had been there, before I was up, to say that they 
 should do themselves the honor to pay their respects to "El 
 Ministro" in form, at the early hour of ten o'clock. There 
 was now no alternative but to submit to the arrangement, 
 and make the best of what we would gladly have prevented. 
 Punctual to the moment, when the clock struck the appoint- 
 
ANOTHER OBSEQUIO. 
 
 363 
 
 ed hour, a band of musicos, preceded by half a dozen fellows 
 firing bombas, emerged from the cabildo, on the opposite 
 side of the square, in the direction of our house. They were 
 followed by the municipal and spiritual fathers of the town, 
 the former with their red sashes and gold-headed canes, and 
 the latter in their black robes and broad-brimmed hats, after 
 whom came a mingled mass of men, women, and children. 
 The musicos played with an energy befitting the occasion, 
 and the men with the bombas managed to keep up an inces- 
 sant discharge. The musicos, the municipality, and the 
 priests, with a very select few of the prominent citizens, 
 alone entered the sala. The populace had to content them- 
 selves with gazing in turns through the open windows and 
 doors. Amongst the ccclesiasties was the Dean Kemijo 
 Salazar, one of the most imposing men in appearance, and 
 most accomplished in manner and in education, of any in 
 the country, and withal an orator and a philanthropist, and 
 the venerable Padre Jose Maria Guerrero, distinguished 
 throughout the State for his exemplary piety, and noted as a 
 musician and a composer of music. I experienced a real 
 satisfaction in taking these men by the hand, and my subse- 
 quent acquaintance with them only served to deepen my 
 respect and esteem. After the exchange of salutations, and 
 a very neat welcome from the first alcalde, we were told that 
 the musicos were prepared with a " Cancion," composed cx- 
 presslv for this occasion, which they begged permission to 
 sing. The permission, accompanied with a glass of ardiente 
 by way of clearing their respective whistles, was graciously 
 accorded. It was but seven stanzas in length, but each 
 stanza was seven times repeated, with a constantly increasing 
 nasal intonation, until the sweat rolled down the faces of 
 singers and players, — for each musico both sang and played. 
 The infliction was severe, and would have been unendurable, 
 had it not been for the amusing contortions of features, and 
 strong muscular exercises of the performers, which far sur- 
 

 364 
 
 NICARAG UA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 passed the most extravagant pantomime ever brought on tlie 
 stage. A copy of the " Cancion" was handed to me at the 
 conclusion of the performance, of which the title and a couple 
 of stanzas will suffice to satisfy any curiosity which the 
 reader may entertain in respect to it. I could not learn who 
 was the author; for, with the modesty of true genius, he 
 carefully concealed his name. 
 
 "CANCION. 
 
 " Con que la Municipalidad de la Villa del Viejo, en union de los 
 Senores Phesmterios Don Remijio Salazar, Dean de la Santa Yglecia 
 Cathedral, y Dr. Don Jose Maria G oerrero, y Licenciado D. Evaristo 
 Rocha, felicitaron al Senor Ministro Plenopotencario de los Estados 
 Unidos del Norte, en sc legada a esta Villa, el 5 a Setiembre. de 
 1849. 
 
 " Digno hijo dc Washington, 
 Seais bien venido, 
 Illustre bien hechor 
 De nuestro Istmo, 
 
 No liay recompensa 
 Que eguale al beneficio, 
 De Vuestra Empresa ! 
 
 i! Fue la America libre, 
 Hoy in su Centro, 
 Con Vos. se regocije 
 Ilasta el estremo, 
 Es un deber 
 
 Pues que por Vos. adquiere 
 Un nucvo ser. 
 
 " Dichoso aquel momcnto 
 Bello, y dcseado, 
 En que Vuestra Excclencia 
 Fue proclamado, 
 Para operar 
 
 La obra grande que el mundo 
 Debe admirar." 
 
 We remained but two days at El Viejo, and on the morn- 
 ing of the third started on our return to Leon. Chinandega, 
 

 ■H 
 
 CHINANDEGA AGAIN. 
 
 365 
 
 by daylight, more than confirmed the favorable opinion 
 which I had formed of it from descriptions and starlight 
 glimpses. It covers a very large space of ground, and is 
 regularly laid out in "cuadras" or squares, which are again 
 subdivided into what can best be described as gardens, each 
 
 VIEW OF CH1NANDEGA FROM PnE WEST. 
 
 one embowering a dwelling of some kind, generally built of 
 canes and thatched, but often of adobes and neatly roofed 
 with tiles. The central, or what may be called the business 
 part of the town, in the vicinity of the grand plaza, is com- 
 pact, and as well built as any part of Leon or Granada. Yet 
 it is scarcely twenty years since there was but a single tile- 
 roofed house in the town. Altogether, Chinandega has an 
 air of thrift and enterprise which I have seen nowhere else 
 in Central America ; and as the trade now springing up on 
 
vwmw*' 
 
 
 366 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 the Pacific coast increases, its importance will continue to 
 augment. The country around it is flat, yet the soil is dry, 
 and although the heat during the day is considerable, yet. 
 here, as in El Viejo, the evenings and nights are cool and 
 pleasant. This is perhaps due to its position in respect both 
 to the sea and the great volcano of El Viejo, which stands 
 guard at this extremity of the plain of Leon. 
 
 Pealejo is about two leagues distant from Chinandega. It. 
 is a small town, situated upon a tide-water stream, full five 
 miles from the harbor proper, and can only be reached by 
 the ordinary bongos or lighters, at high water. The position 
 is low, and is reputed unhealthy. The customs' establish- 
 ment is located there, but the merchants who conduct their 
 trade through the port have their stores in Chinandega and 
 Leon. It is said that the town was originally built nearer 
 the harbor, and that the present site was afterwards adopted 
 in consequence of the frequent attacks of the pirates, who, as 
 I have already observed, infested this coast. The popula- 
 tion of Kealejo is about twelve hundred, who find employ- 
 ment in loading and unloading vessels, and supplying them 
 with fruits and provisions. Recently the place has derived 
 a great impulse from the Californian trade; docks and ware- 
 houses have been built, depots for coal established, and seve- 
 ral of the American steamers now touch there regularly for 
 supplies ; the station, in this respect, being favorably situated 
 intermediately between Panama and Acapulco. It seems 
 likely, however, that the old town will be abandoned and a 
 new one built up, immediately on the harbor, opposite the 
 anchorage, where there is a fine position, adapted to all 
 the wants of commerce. A road has, in fact, lately been 
 opened to the mouth of the Estero Dona Paula, by a com- 
 pany of native merchants, and the site of the new town has 
 already been laid out under direction of the government. It 
 is to bear the classical name of " Corinth," and will not be 
 distant more than eighteen or twenty miles from Leon, to 
 
BBH 
 
 TI1E PORT OF REALEJO. 
 
 367 
 
 which place it is supposed it will sustain the same relation 
 that Eealejo has hitherto done to Chinandega. The official 
 paper, the " Correo del Istmo," of the 30th of January last, 
 advertises four hundred and twenty of the lots in " Corinth," 
 varying from 1000 to 1500 square yards, and the minimum 
 prices at which they are to be sold, i. e. from $25 to $37. 
 There seems to be little doubt that this enterprise will prove 
 successful, and that the Port of Realejo will become second 
 in importance to no other on the entire Pacific coast from 
 Panama northward. 1 
 
 1 Sir Edward Belcher, R. N., who surveyed this harbor in 1838, says : 
 "The island of Cardon, at the mouth of the harbor of Realejo, is situated 
 in 12° 28' N., and 87° 12' W. It has two entrances, both of which are 
 safe, under proper precautions, in all weathers. Good and safe anchorage 
 extends for several miles. The rise and fall of the tide is eleven feet, full 
 and change 3h. 6m. Docks or slips, therefore, may easily be constructed, 
 and timber is readily to be procured of any dimensions; wood, water, 
 and immediate necessaries are plentiful and cheap. — " Voyage roimd the 
 World;' vol. ii. p. 307. 
 
 "I may confidently say," observes Dunlap, "that Realejo is as good a 
 port as any in the known world. I have seen Portsmouth, Rio Janeiro, 
 Port Jackson, Talhujano, Callao and Guayaquil, and to all of these I con- 
 sider it decidedly superior. It is a salt water creek, into which several 
 small streams of water empty themselves. The entrance is protected by 
 an island about two miles long, which leaves at each end a channel where 
 ships can enter the harbor, but extending opposite the main land, forming 
 the port in such a manner as to protect it entirely from any wind that can 
 possibly blow, and also breaking the swell which enters the outer bay of 
 of Conchagua from the ocean. The north entrance is about a quarter of 
 a mile wideband that at the south of the island rather wider — both being 
 entirely free from rocks or hidden dangers, and having in no part less than 
 live fathoms depth of water. At one of these openings vessels can at all 
 times enter with a leading wind, from whatever quarter it may blow. 
 The inside consists of a noble basin of water, nowhere less than four 
 fathoms deep, with a bottom of mud, where two hundred ships of the 
 line might lie at all times in most perfect security. Merchant vessels gen- 
 erally he about a mile from the entrance, in the branch of the creek which 
 runs up to Realejo, where there are about five fathoms of water over a 
 
■ 
 
 ng/t/t/tmu 
 
 868 
 
 NIC AR AG U A — N AKRATI V E. 
 
 The opening of the port of San Juan del Sur, or San Juan 
 de Concordia, for purposes of transit across the Continent via 
 Lake Nicaragua and the Rio San Juan, it has been supposed 
 will seriously affect the importance of Realejo. The port of 
 San Juan del Sur, however, can never meet the requirements 
 of a considerable commerce. As a point of embarkation and 
 disembarkation for steamers, it is unobjectionable; but it is 
 small, and it is almost impossible for sail vessels to approach 
 this part of the Nicaraguan coast. The north-east trade 
 winds, which blow the entire year, here sweep across the 
 whole continent, and for a considerable distance, and almost 
 constantly, off the shore ; where, meeting with other currents, 
 they form those peculiar, revolving, contradictory winds 
 known as Papagayos, which give their name to the Gulf 
 within which this port is situated, liealejo, from this cir- 
 cumstance, and that of position in respect to the back coun- 
 try, must therefore remain the chief port of Nicaragua. It 
 is undoubtedly the best for harbor purposes. 
 
 mud bottom. Opposite this port there is a fine level beach, possessing 
 deep water close to the edge, which would form an admirable site for a 
 town, and where, at very little expense, a wharf might be constructed, 
 capable of accommodating almost any number of vessels. - ' — Central 
 America, p. 26. 
 
I ^^ E ^ &frjfolj^^^^ ' - 
 
 CHAPTER XIV, 
 
 THE PRIESTHOOD IN NICARAGUA — DECLINE IN THE INFLUENCE OF THE CIIURCII — 
 BANISHMENT OF THE ARCHBISHOP SUPPRESSION OF THE CONVENTS PROHIBI- 
 TION OF PAPAL BULLS — LEGITIMIZATION OF TOE CHILDREN OF PRIESTS THE 
 
 THREE ABANDONED CONVENTS OF LEON PADRE CARTINE, TOE LAST OF THE 
 
 FRANCISCANS — RECEPTION, OR CLOCK ROOM — TOE PADRE'S TETS ; HIS ORATO- 
 RY J PRIVATE APARTMENTS J WORKSHOP A SKULL AND ITS niSTORY THE 
 
 EGLESIA DEL RECOLECCION — THE PADRE AS A LANDLORD J AS A PAINTER ; AS 
 
 AN UNCLE J AND AS NEGOTIATOR IN MARRIAGE AN AUSPICIOUS OMEN DEATH 
 
 OF THE VICAR OF THE DIOCESS OF NICARAGUA niS OBSEQUIES A FUNERAL 
 
 ORATION — PRIESTLY ELOQUENCE — AN EPITAPn GENERAL FUNERAL CEREMO- 
 NIES — DEATn AS AN ANGEL OF MERCY — BURIAL PRACTICES CAPELLANIAS ; 
 
 THEIR EFFECTS, AND THE POLICY OF THE GOVERNMENT IN RESPECT TO THEM 
 
 POPULAR BIGOTRY AND SUPERSTITION AN ANCIENT INDULGENCE TOE POTEN- 
 CY OF AN EJACULATION REMISSION OF SINS — PENETENCIAS RATIONALE OF 
 
 THE PRACTICE — NOVEL PENANCES TURNING SINS TO GOOD ACCOUNT — GOOD 
 
 FROM EVIL — SYSTEM OF THE PADRE CARTINE — THE DIOCESS OF NICARAGUA, 
 
 AND ITS BISHOP — GENERAL EDUCATION — PUBLIC SCHOOLS THE UNIVERSITIES 
 
 OF LEON AND GRANADA A SAD PICTURE. 
 
 Although there is probably less religious bigotry in 
 Nicaragua and San Salvador than in most of the Spanish 
 American States, yet the priests still exercise considerable 
 influence amongst the popular masses. To their credit, how- 
 ever, be it said, that many of them, although not highly edu- 
 cated, are not only men of liberal sentiments, but amongst 
 the most active promoters of measures of general improve- 
 ment. Previous to the Independence, the Church in Central 
 America Avas well endowed, and quite as exacting as in any 
 other part of the continent, or in Spain itself. For some 
 47 
 
V 
 
 HHH HH IHHI 5^ 1HH H ■■■■ 
 
 370 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 time subsequent to that event, it retained much of its strength, 
 and was active in the political affairs of the country. Unfor- 
 tunately, its influence was seldom felt in behalf of liberal in- 
 stitutions, general or local. 
 
 It is not to be doubted that the men who were the pro- 
 moters of the Independence, and most active in the establish- 
 ment of the Eepublic, were very little under priestly influ- 
 ence ; for one of the first acts of the National Constituent 
 Assembly was to prohibit the sale of Papal indulgences, and 
 to limit the exactions of the Church. This policy arrayed 
 the priestly influence against the new order of things, and it 
 was henceforth exercised in favor of the aristocratical, mon- 
 archical, or Servile faction, against the Liberals and the Re- 
 public, — thus becoming one of the causes of many of the 
 disasters to which the country has since been subjected. 
 Yet the zeal of the Priests did not fail to react upon 
 themselves. They entered into the arena of politics, and 
 were treated as partisans in the civil contests. They es- 
 poused the cause of an obnoxious faction, and came to share 
 its odium as well as its misfortunes. The Liberals, emanci- 
 pated from the machinery of the Church, soon began to look 
 with incredulity on its doctrines, and with contempt on its 
 forms ; and although the people of Central America are still 
 nominally Catholics, yet amongst those capable of reflection, 
 or possessed of education, there are more who arc destitute 
 of any fixed creed, rationalists, or what are sometimes called 
 free thinkers, than Catholics, or adherents of any form of 
 religion. Many of the priests share in the general skepticism. 
 The first decided encounter between the Church and the 
 Republic, was in 1825, when the people of San Salvador, the 
 stronghold of Liberalism, dissatisfied with the political ten- 
 dencies of the Bishop of Guatemala, under whose ecclesias- 
 tical jurisdiction they were, elected a Bishop of their own, in 
 defiance of the Archbishop and the Pope. This example 
 was soon after followed by Nicaragua. The ignorant priest- 
 
4##^^l#^#%* , 
 
 DECLINE OF THE CHUKCII. 
 
 371 
 
 hood, the friars of Quesaltenango, siding with the Archbishop 
 and the Serviles, infuriated by this and other bold innovations, 
 contrived to excite the Indians in Los Altos, who in their 
 fury cruelly slaughtered the vice-president of the Republic ; 
 and for a time the Liberals were overwhelmed by the coali- 
 tion. They, however, afterwards rallied under Gen. Morazan. 
 During his enlightened and vigorous sway, in 1829, it was 
 discovered that the Archbishop was intriguing against the 
 government ; and it was then the Church received a blow 
 from which it can never recover. Morazan was not a man 
 to be trifled with ; he boldly seized the Archbishop, and 
 sent him out of the country under a guard of soldiers, for- 
 bidding his return under penalty of death. The monks and 
 friars belonging to the various convents and monasteries of 
 Guatemala, who were deeply concerned with the Archbishop, 
 were expelled in an equally summary manner. But the 
 measures thus commenced did not stop here. The Legisla- 
 ture of Guatemala decreed the suppression of all the male 
 convents, prohibited females from becoming nuns for the 
 future, and appropriated the revenues of the suppressed 
 monasteries. This act was ratified by the General Congress, 
 which, catching the same spirit, within two months after the 
 banishment of the Archbishop declared all religious orders 
 at an end throughout the Republic. This decisive measure 
 met with the almost unanimous sanction of the people, and 
 was at once carried into effect in the several States. The 
 Congress also decreed not only complete Religious Liberty, 
 but that the appointment to church dignities pertained to the 
 nation, and should be made by the President of the Republic ; 
 prohibited the promulgation of all papal bulls, unless they 
 had received the previous sanction of the Federal Govern- 
 ment, as also the sale or use of papal dispensations, of what- 
 ever character. The State of Honduras shortly afterwards 
 passed a law, which, I believe, was also adopted by all the 
 other States, legalizing the marriage of the priests, and legiti- 
 

 372 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 matizing their children, so as to permit of their succeeding 
 to their fathers' property. 1 
 
 Subsequently to the dissolution of the confederacy, and 
 under the direction of the Serviles, the convents of Guate- 
 mala were re-established, but the other States have persisted 
 in the prohibitory action of 1829, or rather no attempt has 
 been made to revive the monasteries suppressed under it. 
 There were formerly, as I have already said, three convents 
 in Leon ; that of San Juan de Dios has been converted into 
 a hospital ; that of La Merced is only used by the govern- 
 ment in case of need as a cuartel, or barracks. The largest, 
 the Franciscan, although in a state of hopeless decay, is still 
 watched over faithfully by the Padre Cartine. lie has thus 
 far preserved its precincts sacred from profane intrusion, and 
 lingers silently amongst its dilapidated corridors, and weed- 
 infested courts, like the antiquary amongst the tombs, the 
 last of the powerful fraternity of San Francisco in Leon. 
 
 The Padre Cartine is a learned man, in the continental ac- 
 ceptation of the term of two centuries ago. That is to say, 
 ho reads Latin and the Fathers, and is familiar with the 
 Natural History of Pliny, — the latest book on the subject 
 with which he is acquainted, and which is his sole authority. 
 
 1 In their zeal to educate the people, and to weaken their religious pre- 
 judices, t heal its were established, in which the arts and objects of priest- 
 craft were exposed to ridicule, contempt, and reprobation. A play called 
 "Lalnquisicionpor dentro," or "A Peep into the Inquisition," had a great 
 run, and brought that institution into effectual and lasting odium. 
 
 " In Guatemala," says Mr. Crowe, " Papal bulls of indulgence, which 
 used to be as much valued as paper currency in other countries, are now 
 used by the shopkeepers as waste paper for wrapping their goods. In 
 San Salvador, the Bishop, a few years since, offered first twenty and after- 
 wards forty days of plenary indulgence, to be deducted from the period of 
 purgatorial sufferings after death, to all who should aid in removing an 
 unsightly mound of earth which disgraced one of the squares of the city, 
 and injured the effect of the Cathedral ; but the mound remained, although 
 the Bishop again doubled the promised remission." 
 
^K#»*|#V*»»»ife*; 
 
 THE PADRE CAKTIXE. 
 
 373 
 
 The Padre is withal a mathematician, lias a Latin edition of 
 Euclid, and reads it once a year by way of amusement, and 
 to refresh his memory. lie is an architect, and has made 
 a plan for the restoration of the convent, on a scale of splen- 
 dor which would beggar a prince to carry out, and feels as 
 anxious about its accuracy as if the masons were to commence 
 to-morrow, and any defect in the plan would ruin the archi- 
 tectural effect of the structure for ever. 
 
 I am not likely to forget my first visit to Padre Cartine. 
 I found him seated in a broad arm-chair, in the principal 
 room of his house. He had been a man of fine proportions, 
 but was now a little corpulent, a defect only to be observed 
 when he was standing. His head was of fine outline, large, 
 and massive, and his face had an expression of intelligence, 
 dignity, and equanimity, at once pleasing and impressive. 
 He wore a dress of coarse, gray serge, bound at the waist by 
 a rough pita cord, for he still kept up many of the austere 
 practices of his order. The furniture of the house was plain 
 and simple, and I believe all of the Padre's own manufacture. 
 Upon a low bench extending around two sides of the room, 
 was a most incongruous assortment of clocks, of every date, 
 pattern, and country, from a tall cupboard contrivance of the 
 last century, dingy with age, in the corner, through every 
 intermediate variety, to a little German or French concern, 
 which ticked spitefully from the opposite wall. There were 
 cases without clocks, and clocks without cases; besides a 
 wilderness of weights, cords, pulleys, wheels, and springs; 
 for the Padre was so passionately fond of clocks, that he not 
 only kept an extensive variety of his own to tinker, but 
 borrowed all of his neighbors', and encouraged the distant 
 villagers to bring him theirs for gratuitous cleansing and 
 repair. No Jew's second-hand furniture-shop in Chatham 
 street could afford more than a very faint counterpart of this 
 curious collection. The Padre observed that they attracted 
 my attention, and commenced a philosophical lecture on 
 

 374 
 
 N IC AR AGU A — NARR AT I VE. 
 
 horology, which I hastily brought to a close by suggesting a 
 walk through the old convent and the church which had 
 been attached to it. In the first courtyard were half a dozen 
 deer, tame as kittens, which came bounding up at the sound 
 of the Padre's voice ; they licked his extended hand, and held 
 down their heads to have them rubbed, but failing to cajole 
 the Padre out of a plantain or tortilla, butted him playfully, 
 and struck at him with well-feigned malice. Upon one side 
 of this court the Padre had fitted up a private chapel. It 
 contained a marble altar, a wax figure of Christ, and a great 
 variety of valuable ornaments saved from the wreck of the 
 monastery, and with which no earthly consideration could 
 prevail upon the Padre to part. An expression, half of sor- 
 row, half of pride, passed over the Padre's face as he held 
 the door open that we might see the precious contents of his 
 oratory. From this he took us to a large room, his own pri- 
 vate apartment, in which was the rough hide bed whereon 
 he slept, and which contrasted strangely with a rich set of 
 travelling wine and liqueur bottles, which he complacently 
 displayed to us, (not badly filled, by the way), in a secure 
 closet. In another room the Padre had his workshop. In 
 one corner was a foot-lathe of his own construction, in which 
 he turned beads from the arm-bones of defunct Scnoras, to 
 be strung on consecrated rosaries, and sold for the benefit of 
 piety and the church — whose interests have always won- 
 derfully accorded. Here were kettles containing purified 
 sulphur from the volcanoes, nitre, and charcoal, to be com- 
 pounded for the glorification of the saints, the service of the 
 Lord, and the utter desperation of heretics, in the form of 
 bombas. Ilere, too, was a machine, also of the Padre's in- 
 vention and construction, for grinding and polishing the 
 glasses of spectacles, for the Padre, amongst his multifarious 
 accomplishments, was an optician, the only one, probably, in 
 all Central America. He had, in fact, constructed a telescope 
 for the University of Leon, and astounded the citizens by 
 

 i ^ j ^^^ i ^^R'w ^^aijij^i 
 
 A SKULL, AND ITS HISTORY. 
 
 375 
 
 showing them the rings of Saturn ! " You are a most accom- 
 plished man, Padre," said I, glancing at his mechanical 
 achievements. " Juguetes" playthings, mere playthings, re- 
 sponded the Padre, with a complacent smile, which was 
 intended to be depreciatory. In the third courtyard, next 
 the church, grew a magnificent mango tree. At its foot a 
 mozo had been digging, to extirpate some burrowing animal, 
 and had thrown up a variety of human bones, and amongst 
 them a skull. Its delicate proportions attracted my atten- 
 tion, and I stepped aside and picked it up. 
 
 "Ah, Padre, this is a woman's skull, a girl's skull, I am 
 sure ! Padre, how came it here ?" 
 
 The Padre took it quickly from my hand, looked at it, 
 and then gazed in an abstracted, reflecting manner upon the 
 spot which it had occupied. After a few moments' silence, 
 he spoke, deliberately removing the earth from the eye 
 sockets with his fore-finger ; 
 
 "Ah, Sefior! she was very beautiful, this girl. She was 
 
 the youngest daughter of Senora M ! Heaven rest her 
 
 soul ! She died of the cholera in the year '37. Five thou- 
 sand of our people died in four short months, Senor ! The 
 Senorita Inez ! She was only sixteen years old, Senor ; but 
 yet a woman, and beautiful, very beautiful !" 
 
 And the Padre held the delicate skull before him, as if it 
 was clothed with flesh again, and he gazed upon the smilino- 
 face once more. 
 
 "Very beautiful," he soliloquized. "She was amongst 
 the first ; there are five hundred buried in this very court, 
 Senor," said the Padre rapidly, turning towards me, and 
 crossing himself. "Five thousand in four months! in four 
 short months!" 
 
 The expression of the old man's face, as the memory of those 
 four months came back upon him, showed how terrible and 
 ineffaceable were the scenes which they had witnessed. " She 
 was very beautiful!" and the Padre placed the skull gently 
 

 376 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 in the earth again, laid the delicate bones carefully around it, 
 and with his naked hand scraped the loose earth above 
 them. 
 
 The interior of the Eglesia del Becolcccion, which lias a 
 most elaborate facade, covered with shields on which arc 
 exhibited all the prominent devices of the church, was dark 
 and gloomy. The altar was a fine one, and the Padre kept 
 a lamp burning constantly before an image of the Virgin, 
 which looked spectral enough beneath its feeble rays. A 
 number of pictures were suspended upon the walls, among 
 which were a variety of saints frying complacently upon 
 gridirons, smiling from stakes of impalement, or sailing 
 smoothly away amongst a swarm of baby angels and bodi- 
 less cherubs, to a most substantial looking heaven, elevated 
 only a few yards above the earth. We ascended into the 
 tower by a series of rickety stairs, with gaps here and there 
 ranging from one to four steps, up which the prudent Padre 
 did not essay to go. From this tower we obtained a lino 
 view, second only to that to be had from the to}) of the 
 Cathedral. As wc descended, a huge owl, which we had 
 startled from his roost in some dark corner of the tower, 
 nearly knocked us over in his flight. We returned through 
 the Golgotha, to the grand reception or eloek room, where 
 the Padre showed us his plan for restoring the convent, in 
 red and black ink, which required only a single thing to its 
 realization, and that was precisely what the Padre did not 
 know how to obtain, viz., money ! We nevertheless made 
 him happy before leaving, by promising to write to the Uni- 
 ted States, on his behalf, to obtain a grand clock for his 
 church, which should exhibit three dials, and strike the 
 hours. " Con tres frentes!" repeated the Padre, calling after 
 us as we passed down the street, " with three dials!" 
 
 The Padre ultimately became my landlord. I hired a 
 house of him, which he had himself designed and built, op- 
 posite the old convento. It had a grand sain and two rooms 
 

 ^M 
 
 
 yw&^sii 
 
 DECORATIVE ART. 
 
 377 
 
 on the street, with quarters for the servants, and a kitchen, 
 arranged after the usual plan,— altogether one of the most 
 desirable buildings in Leon. It had before rented for six dol- 
 lars per month, but as I was a particular friend of the Padre, 
 I got it for nine. The Padre was really ashamed to ask that 
 sum, but then he had written a religious pamphlet, which he 
 wanted to publish, and I told him that I should be too happy 
 to contribute to that laudable object, and that the house was 
 worth twice the money, — which was pretty good, considering 
 that the best house in Leon rented for but fourteen dollars 
 per month. The Padre had achieved a great triumph in 
 painting the interior of this house. It was done in fresco, in 
 a style as novel as complicated, and with as many colors as 
 could conveniently be compounded. But the Padre's chef 
 d'eeuvre was the menagerie, as we called it, upon the wall of 
 the servants' corridor. His models had been the figures of 
 animals and objects represented in the Child's F irsi Primer, 
 or illustrated alphabet, a copy of which he must have ob- 
 tained from the United States or England, for there was the 
 entire series commencing "A was an Ape that ran after his 
 tail," down to " Z was a Zebra who came from the Cape," all 
 depicted of large size 1 , and in flaming colors. This fact will 
 perhaps sufficiently illustrate the state of decorative art in 
 Nicaragua. 
 
 The Padre had a niece (de facto, oh skeptic!) who, with 
 her mother, occupied a detached part of his own house, and 
 over whom, as she was exceedingly pretty, he kept most 
 rigorous watch. He gave out, for the benefit of gallants, 
 that he would shoot the first who should be seen around the 
 premises, and really kept a loaded musket for the purpose. 
 The Padre was a man of his word, and the threat was effect- 
 ual in its object ; the gallants kept away. The last time I 
 heard from Leon, a young American, from Boston, was 
 diplomatizing with the Padre for the hand of his sobrina ; it 
 went hard to resign her to a heretic, but the Padre's heart is 
 •18 
 
m 
 
 mt8&8y%%m ®$m$ wj$$&i ^H *%>*§ 
 
 878 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 soft, and even rocks yield to time. Boston and Leon; Mas- 
 sachusetts and Nicaragua; the omen is auspicious and sig- 
 niiicaut ! 
 
 I have elsewhere mentioned the name of the Vicarioof the 
 Bishopric, Don Desiderio de la Quadra, who was the first of 
 the clergy to pay his respects to me, upon my arrival in Leon. 
 lie was then ill, and died on the -fth of October following. 
 His funeral was conducted with great ceremony and solemni- 
 ty. On the morning of the 5th, circulars, of which the fol- 
 lowing is a copy, were directed to all the principal inhabit- 
 ants, and left by a messenger bearing a silver cross shrouded 
 in crape, from the Cathedral. 
 
 "Al Skxor; 
 
 " A las seis de la tarde do ayer ha muerto nuestro amy amado tio el Sr. 
 Vicario Capitular y Apostolico, Presbitero Beneficiado Dr. Don Jose De- 
 siderio Quadra : su cadaver sera sepultado en In Santa Catedral Yglesia 
 de esta Ciudad, saliendo cl entierro alaseuatro de la tarde de la casa de 
 su morada. Si U. se dignase honrarle con su asistencia, It; seran muy re- 
 conocidos sus mas atentos servidores Q. B. S, M. 
 
 Trinidad Quadra. Mateo Matorga. 
 
 Leon, Odubre 5 de 1849. 
 
 At the appointed hour we proceeded to the house which 
 the Vicar had occupied. It was a large building, furnished 
 in the simplest manner, for the; Vicar was ;i practical as well 
 as professed follower of Christ, and was faithful to his vows 
 of poverty. All of his income, except the small sum neces- 
 sary to supply his frugal wants, was devoted to charity. 
 The courtyard and the corridor were already filled with peo- 
 ple; and the clergy occupied the grand sala in which tin; 
 corpse was lying. The ceremonies of the funeral had al- 
 ready commenced, we could hear the chants and prayers, 
 and see the wax lights, but the place was overcrowded, and 
 we did not attempt to enter. After a while a passage was 
 opened through the assemblage for the bearers of the dead, 
 
FUNERAL OF THE YICAK. 
 
 379 
 
 preceded and surrounded by priests, full robed and with, un- 
 covered heads. The people in the courtyard knelt, as the 
 remains were carried by. In the street was a sort of car, 
 covered with drapery, upon which the corpse, dressed in the 
 vicarial robes, was placed. Here another prayer was chant- 
 ed ; and when it was concluded, the car, surrounded by the 
 entire body of the clergy, and preceded by the empty eccle- 
 siastical carriage, moved towards the Cathedral. All the 
 officers of State, and a large number of the principal citizens, 
 bearing wax candles, followed ; and then came the mass of 
 the people, without order, but silently and decently. The 
 cortege stopped at each corner, where a prayer was repeated 
 in low recitative by the priests, who walked slowly around 
 the car, and sprinkled the ground with holy water. The 
 troops were drawn up with arms reversed, in the plaza, 
 which the procession entered amidst the tolling of the muf- 
 fled bells of the Cathedral. The body was carried up the 
 main aisle, and placed upon an elevated platform, immedi- 
 ately in front of the great altar, while the choir filled the 
 vast building with the solemn tones of the chant for the 
 dead. The light fell from the dome full upon the rigid face 
 of the corpse, calm and cold as marble, surrounded by ear- 
 nest groups, standing silently in the shadows of the lofty 
 arches. An extempore funeral oration was pronounced by 
 the Senor Presbiteeo Dean D. Remijio Salazar, of the 
 town of El Viejo. It was founded on the passage in the 
 eleventh chapter of Leviticus, "Sod santos, porque yo soy 
 santo." "Be ye holy, for I am holy," and was given with 
 good oratorical effect and much feeling, and was altogether 
 impressive and appropriate. Its tenor was to show that the 
 deceased, from his observance of the requisitions of God and 
 the church, was entitled to be regarded as a saint. The 
 analysis of what constitutes "the Israelite indeed," was 
 made with great clearness and eloquence, and in more pre- 
 

 
 380 
 
 NI CAR AG U A — N AH R ATI VJ<: . 
 
 tending countries than those of Nicaragua, would have 
 stamped its author as a man of no ordinary abilities. 
 
 " The true saint," said the speaker, " walks apart from the 
 glittering road trodden by the proud and solJish world. His 
 is the path in the valley of humility, lie pants not for the 
 glory of the soldier, or the fame of the statesman, the 
 splendor of wealth, or the dignity of social position, lias 
 he talents? He consecrates them to our holy religion. Has he 
 wealth ? It is a free offering at the feet of Charity. Has 
 he a lofty lineage, and illustrious name ? He humbly sur- 
 renders them at the shrine of the Church. All this did the 
 venerated dead ! He was a man who feared God, and ad- 
 hered .steadfastly to his service ; irreproachable in conduct, a 
 faithful son, a true friend, an obedient citizen, a man disin- 
 terested in his views and actions, moderate in his desires, 
 uncomplaining in adversity, humble, in prosperity ; purified 
 in the fire, weighed in the balance, by the loftiest standard oi 
 the Holy Law, he is proved a saint! And now, amidst the 
 glorious array of saints and martyrs, beyond the clouded 
 atmosphere of earth, in the eternal sunshine of Divinity, 
 dwells that pure and immortal spirit w r hose rejected tene- 
 ment, cold and motionless, wc have assembled to consign to 
 the silent house appointed for all living. Our tears fall on 
 the earth, but our smiles are reilectcd in Heaven !" 
 
 Amongst the many epitaphs and fragmentary poetical trib- 
 utes elicited by the; death of this Yicar, the subjoined may 
 be taken as a \evy fair example. With what has been j)re- 
 sented elsewhere, it will no doubt satisfy the reader that the 
 tropical muse seldom rises to lofty flights. 
 
 EPITAFIO 
 
 A la muerte del muy illustre y venerable Prelado, el Senor Pre sb Hero Dr. 
 Don Desiderio de la Quadra, Vicar io Capitular de esta Diocesis. 
 
 Despues dc tantos aiios de virtud, 
 El feudo pagas cual mortal viviente, 
 
HB 
 
 
 CONCEPTIONS OF DEATH. 
 
 381 
 
 Para acercaros al trono Omnipotente 
 De aquel Dies de eterna beatitud : 
 
 AUi, alii la inmensa multitud 
 De santos que te adoran reverentes, 
 Abriendo campo <\ tu espiritu inocente, 
 Ponen en tus manos sonoro laud. 
 
 G-oza esa vida inmortal que te deseo 
 Al misnio tiempo que tu muerte lloro ; 
 Y mientras entre los justos yo te veo, 
 
 Disfruta cantando en alto coro 
 Safirica corona por trofco 
 De Opalo una palma, una Silla de oro. 
 Leon, Octubre 5 de 1849. 
 
 The funeral of the Vicar was far more solemn than any 
 other which I witnessed in the country. In most instances 
 the funeral ceremony has few of those gloomy accessories 
 which our customs prescribe as no more than decorous. 
 Youth, innocence, and beauty, like ornaments on the brow of 
 age, or on the withered limbs of deformity, serve only to 
 heighten the terrors of our grim conception of death, the 
 gloomy and remorseless tyrant who gloats, fiend-like, over 
 the victims of his skeleton arm. Theirs is a happier con- 
 ception. Death mere if Lilly relieves the infant from the sor- 
 rows and the dangers of life ; and withers the rose on the 
 cheeks of youth, that it may retain its bloom and fragrance 
 in the more genial atmosphere of Heaven. The tear of 
 grief falls only for those whose long contact with the world 
 has effaced the stamp of divinity, whose matured passions 
 have cankered the heart, and whose misdirected ambitions 
 have diverted the aspirations of the soul and the energies of 
 the mind from heaven to earth, from the grandeurs of Eter- 
 nity to the frivolities of Time. 
 
 The youngest daughter of the Licenciado D. died and was 
 buried in the latter part of October. She was young, scarce 
 sixteen, and the idolized child of her parents. Her funeral 
 might have been her bridal, in its total freedom from out- 
 

 382 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 ward manifestations of grief. The procession formed before 
 my window. First were musicians playing a cheerful strain, 
 and next the priests chaunting a song of triumph. After 
 them, on the shoulders of young men, was borne a litter, 
 covered with white satin and loaded with orange branches, 
 amidst which, dressed in white as for a festival, her head 
 wreathed with pure white flowers, and holding in her hands 
 a silver cross, was the marble form of the dead girl. The 
 bereaved parents, the sisters and relations of the deceased 
 followed ; their eyes were tearless, and though the traces of 
 sorrow were visible on their faces, yet over all there was an 
 expression of hope, and of faith in the teachings of Him who 
 has declared " Blessed are the pure in heart, for they shall 
 see God." 
 
 The funerals of infants are much the same. The body is 
 invariably dressed in white, and covered with flowers. Men 
 firing rockets, and musicians playing lively airs, precede the 
 corpse, and the parents and relatives follow. The rationale 
 of this apparent want of feeling is to be found in the Romish 
 doctrine of baptismal regeneration, according to which the 
 departed spirit being in heaven, there is more cause for hap- 
 piness than grief. 
 
 When an adult is dangerously ill, or dying, a priest is 
 called, who goes for the Viaticum. An altar is hastily erected 
 in the sick chamber; a crucifix is placed upon it, surrounded 
 with lighted candles and flowers, a place being left for the 
 Costodia, a vessel generally of gold and richly jewelled, con- 
 taining the consecrated wafer. This is brought by a priest 
 in a litter or carriage, surrounded by soldiers and boys bear- 
 ing lighted candles, and preceded by music, — sometimes 
 consisting only of a single violin. The people kneel as the 
 procession passes through the streets. Arrived at the sick 
 chamber, the sacrament and the last rites of the church are 
 administered to the dying one, whose friends, gathering close 
 around the bed, whisper "Jesus te ampara," "Jesus te aux- 
 

 FUNERAL RITES. 
 
 383 
 
 ilie," "Maria to favoresca," — Jesus protect thee, Jesus help 
 thee, Maria favor thee, — and then, when they suppose the 
 final struggle transpiring, they ejaculate, "Jesus, Jesus, 
 Jesus!" 
 
 "Among the more refined inhabitants," says Mr. Crowe, 
 in his interesting book on Guatemala, (and the same practice 
 is followed throughout the country,) " after the coffin, covered 
 with black velvet, has been removed from between the 
 gigantic candles which cast a pale glare upon it in the sombre 
 apartment, it is followed by a long train of friends on foot, 
 bearing lighted candles, to the church, and then to the ceme- 
 tery. When the corpse has been finally deposited, the friends 
 return slowly and in groups to the house of mourning, where 
 the chief mourner has remained, and is now waiting to 
 receive them in a large room or hall, hung with black cloth, 
 at one end of which he sits, supported on his left or right by 
 two near kinsmen or special friends. The visitors sit silently 
 before him for a few minutes, on seats which are placed for 
 them on either side of the room, and having thus manifested 
 their participation in the grief of the family, they rise, one 
 after another, gently press the hand of the chief mourner, 
 and, if they are intimate friends, perhaps add a word or two 
 of condolence. They then retire, and are succeeded by others 
 in the same manner." ' 
 
 There is, however, much that is repugnant in the burials, 
 particularly as practised in Leon. Near most of the towns 
 is what is called the Campo Santo, an enclosed consecrated 
 cemetery, in ■which the dead are buried upon the payment of 
 a small sum, which is devoted to keeping the grounds in 
 order. But in Leon the practice of burying in the churches 
 has always prevailed, and is perpetuated through the influ- 
 ence of the priests, who derive a considerable fee from each 
 burial. The consequence is, that the ground within and 
 
 ' Gospel in Central America, p. 373. 
 
I 
 
 ww> ps 
 
 **•'*-• 
 
 384 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 around the churches has become (if the term is admissible) 
 saturated with the dead. The burials are made according to 
 the amount paid to the church, for from ten to twenty-five 
 years, at the end of which time the bones, with the earth 
 around them, are removed and sold to the manufacturers of 
 nitre ! The government has opposed the entire practice for 
 many years, and during the period of the cholera prohibited it. 
 But the instability of affairs in the country has been such, 
 that the authorities have hesitated to provoke the hostility of 
 the entire priesthood by putting a peremptory end to the 
 practice. Coffins are rarely used. The corpse is placed at the 
 bottom of the grave, the earth rudely thrown in, and beaten 
 hard with heavy rammers, with a degree of indifference, not 
 to say brutality, which is really shocking, and which I never 
 permitted myself to witness a second time. 
 
 Amongst the sources of revenue to which the priesthood 
 has adhered with greatest tenacity, and the gradual abolition 
 of which is one of the leading measures of the Government 
 policy of Nicaragua, is what is called the capellania, or lien 
 on property, conveyed to the priests by proprietors at their 
 death, to secure certain masses or other priestly interpositions 
 on behalf of their souls, or conveyed to churches for the 
 same laudable objects. Thus Don Fulano finding his end 
 approaching, gives to his priest a lien of twenty dollars a 
 year on his estate, in consideration of which a certain num- 
 ber of masses shall be said for him annually. Next year the 
 Dona Fulano dies, and, not to be outdone in piety, she 
 secures to her favorite church another annual sum to be 
 invested in " villainous saltpetre" for the glorification of her 
 protecting Santa, and the benefit of her own " alma." It will 
 readily be seen that the continuance of this process through 
 a series of years must, in the end, seriously embarrass the 
 real estate of the country, and prove an effectual check to 
 the improvement of that species of property. Thus the most 
 desirable portions of Leon, once covered with squares of 
 
fcK | *j*l*J*3ft^-*7('«!^**"-?^?^.~^ , ^ 4 - ! 
 
 DECLINE OF POPULAR BIGOTRY. 
 
 385 
 
 palaces, are now waste and unoccupied, in consequence of 
 the accumulation of the capellanias, which exceed in amount 
 the market value of the ground. 
 
 During my stay in Leon, and in spite of the opposition of 
 those interested in maintaining them, the Legislative Cham- 
 bers decreed the abolition of ten per cent, of the capellanias, 
 excepting those dedicated to educational purposes. Pre- 
 viously, I believe, fifteen per cent, had been appropriated by 
 the Government, and offered for commutation at a nominal 
 sum. The entire extinction of the capellanias, and the 
 release of the property which they have so long burthened 
 and rendered valueless, will be the ultimate and happy 
 result of these advances. 
 
 I have said that the masses of the people still cherish 
 something of their original religious bigotry. It is, never- 
 theless, fast giving way to more liberal sentiments, and no 
 objection is made to foreigners on the score of religion, so 
 long as they preserve a decent respect for the ceremonies of 
 the church, and do not outrage the prejudices which educa- 
 tion and custom have created, and which are no more numer- 
 ous nor stronger than with us, although they have a some- 
 what different direction. That there is much of ignorance 
 and superstition amongst the people, is unfortunately true; 
 nor is the fact at all surprising, in consideration of their 
 antecedents, and the circumstances under which they have 
 been placed. 
 
 It is somewhat difficult to ascertain how far the faith of 
 the better classes in papal infallibility, and other matters to 
 which an apparent entire deference is accorded, really ex- 
 tends. We can hardly conceive that the following antiquated 
 
 1 An English Protestant Missionary, Mr. F. Crowe, who was established 
 in Guatemala for some years, until driven out by the servile Government 
 has recently published a work entitled the " Gospel in Central America " 
 in which he observes: 
 
 "Of the fact that infidelity has spread extensively in Central America 
 49 
 
^^^H i^^^*p *#?$4 '&$?$§- } $tWffi$ 
 
 386 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 indulgence should be posted upon every door in the houses 
 of the most intelligent familes, except in politic conformity 
 to prejudices, not shared by those families themselves, but 
 which they do not care to oppose. Yet it met my eye 
 almost everywhere, in the houses alike of the rich and the 
 poor, of the Indian and the Cabellero : — 
 
 ALABADO SEA EL 
 S ANTISIMO 
 
 SACRAMENTO 
 DEL ALTAR! 
 
 Nuestro Santisimo Padre Paulo V. de feliz memoria, en su Bula de 
 17. de Abril despachada en Roma del ano del Senior de 1G12, conce- 
 dio indulgencia plenaria, y remision de la tercera parte de los peca- 
 dos a cualquiera persona que en su casa tuviere escrito donde su 
 pueda ler $W la anterior jaculatoria ; ^Jgfl y la misma indul- 
 gencia plenaria, todaa las veces que lo leyeren, y el que no supiere 
 ler, venerare el escrito. 
 
 Copiado del original de induhjencias. 
 
 and particularly so amongst the very classes upon which Romanism had 
 formerly the strongest hold, there can be no doubt. It is proved by the 
 almost total abandonment of the outward observances of Popery by the 
 better educated amongst the Ladinos, and, in spite of their political ten- 
 dencies, by the whites and pure Creoles also. With the exception of the 
 more weak amongst the women and children, scarcely any of these classes 
 are now to be seen attending mass or confession, and other requirements 
 are generally neglected by them. Numbers of infidel books are to be 
 found in the libraries, and in the hands of all classes and sexes. So 
 strongly are the minds of these classes imbued with deistieal and atheis- 
 tical notions, that it becomes apparent, and is unblushingly avowed in 
 

 **w£'*/»**£^$< 
 
 >W <x** 
 
 ANTIQUATED INDULGENCES. 
 
 387 
 
 PRAISE BE TO THE 
 
 MOST HOLY SACRAMENT OF THE ALTAR ! 
 
 " Our most holy Father Paul V. of happy memory, in his Bull from 
 Rome, April 17, in the year of our Lord 1612, conceded plenary indulg- 
 ence and remission of the third part of his sins to whoever should 
 write in his house where it might be read £2P°tiie preceding ejacula- 
 TiON^Jf-fl ; and the same plenary indulgence every time he should read it. 
 or if he should not be able to read, every time he should venerate the 
 writing," i. e., look upon it with veneration. 
 
 " Bendito y alabado sea el Santo Sacramento del Altar," 
 Blessed and praised be the holy Sacrament of the Altar, is 
 the common ejaculation of the servant who in the evening, 
 first brings lighted candles into the occupied rooms of the 
 various houses. It is uttered mechanically, in a drawling, 
 nasal tone, and was formerly always responded to by the 
 members of the family; but like many other customs, the 
 latter part of the practice has now become obsolete. The 
 recipient of a favor acknowledges it by " Dios so lo pague," 
 God repay you ; if an engagement is made, it is with the 
 qualification, "si Dios quiere," if God wills; and when a 
 bond is entered into, it is always with the reservation, " Pri- 
 mero Dios," i. e., if my first duty to God will permit. The 
 " higher law" is always recognized, in form if not in spirit. 
 
 general conversation. Nay, some of the more candid among the priests 
 openly espouse these notions."- p. 257. 
 
 Some of the priests, this author adds, ridicule the pretended authority 
 of the Pope, and rejoice at the emancipation of the people from the 
 Church of Rome. Air. Crowe rejoices also, at the success of infidelity 
 over Romanism, as likely to result in good. "The change from Popery, 
 or any other analogous system," he writes, "to the entire rejection of re- 
 vealed religion, is one which believers in Divine Revelation may hail with 
 satisfaction, if they be prepared to take advantage of it; for it breaks up 
 prejudices of education, leads to thought and inquiry, and sometimes 
 to a sincere and earnest search after truth!" 
 
&&W&W& 0m mt§ ^H Hi - tt&h?^ 
 
 388 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 " Dios sobre todos," God over all, is the commonest of pro- 
 verbs. 
 
 The public Penitencias, or Penances, afford striking 
 illustrations of the strength of the popular superstitions, and 
 of the priestly influence. I witnessed one of these, shortly 
 after my arrival in Leon. It consisted of a long procession 
 of men and boys, one or two hundred in number, barefooted 
 and stripped to the waist, their heads and faces covered with 
 veils so as to prevent recognition, who marched through the 
 public streets, from one church to another, flagellating 
 themselves with raw hide thongs. They were preceded by 
 a life-size figure of Christ on the cross, a score of musicians, 
 and a crowd of priests and women, (all of the latter barefoot- 
 ed and some bearing heavy crosses on their shoulders,) who 
 chanted prayers, while the penitents beat time with the 
 thongs over their own shoulders. Each one carried a little 
 cross before him in his hand, with his head bent forward as if 
 in earnest contemplation of the sacred symbol. It was a sin- 
 gular spectacle ; for there were black bodies, and brown, and 
 white bodies, and yellow, and the sharp strokes of the thongs 
 in the pauses of the slow and mournful music, fairly made 
 the flesh of the spectator creep. There was, however, no spe- 
 cial occasion for sympathy, for each penitent had it in his 
 power to graduate the force of his own blows to his own 
 notions of the enormity of his moral offences. Some laid it 
 on gently, — moderate sinners! — merely as a matter of form; 
 but there were others who punished themselves lustily, and 
 drew blood from their quivering flesh at every blow, which 
 ran down to their very heels, and purpled the ground where 
 they trod. 
 
 It seems almost incredible that these heathenish practices, 
 only one remove from human sacrifices, should yet be perpet- 
 uated amongst nations claiming to be civilized. Still, when 
 we reflect that fasts and other mortifications of the body are 
 ]>n 'scribed by the rituals of our own churches, and pro- 
 
HHSsHwBHBnSleiv 
 
 iHMi 
 
 REMNANTS OF BARBARISM. 
 
 389 
 
 claimed from the executive chair of our own nation, we 
 ought not to be surprised at any manifestation of human 
 folly, or wonder that the popular conception of God is not yet 
 purified from the horrible and detestable features with which 
 it was invested in the darkest ages of the world, and in the 
 most debased stages of the human mind. The belief that 
 the all-good and ominipotent Kulcr of the Universe can be 
 pleased with the self-inflicted punishment of his creatures, 
 whether it be through fasting or flagellation, differs in no re- 
 spect from that which actuates the frantic Hindoo, who pros- 
 trates himself before the crushing wheels of Jaggenath, or 
 that inflamed the poor Mexican, who offered his willing 
 breast to the knife of the Aztec priest, that his palpitating 
 heart might bathe the lips of the idol which was the visible 
 representation of his sanguinary God! 
 
 There were other Penitencias, not public, but which were 
 perhaps more severe. A hundred or more of the penitents 
 are sometimes locked within a church, where they remain for 
 nine days, sleeping but four hours out of the twenty-four, 
 and eating but once in that period. The rest of the time is 
 divided between the various ceremonies prescribed by the 
 rigid rules of the penitencia, upon their knees, or prone on 
 the rough floor of the dark church in which they arc con- 
 fined. "While I resided near the Eglesia de la Merced, one 
 of these penitencias took place, and I was several times 
 awakened in the dead of night by the wailings of the peni- 
 tents, mingling harshly with the low and cheerful melodies 
 of that Nature which harmonizes with its great Author, and 
 upon whose laws kingcraft and priestcraft, the world over, 
 and in every age, have waged a constant and most unnatural 
 and unholy war. The horrible doctrine of original sin, and 
 the efficacy of austerities, penances, and immolations, parts 
 of one system, find the best evidence of their truth in the 
 fact of their existence amongst men! I saw the enthusiasts 
 when they came out of the church, pale, haggard, and filthy ; 
 
 
■^H 
 
 t^^r^tt >#$?*, '#$?&*% ^^^HHflH 
 
 390 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 some, in fact, so exhausted that they could not walk without 
 assistance, and who tottered from the scenes of their debase- 
 ment to beds of sickness and death. 
 
 Very novel penances are sometimes prescribed by the 
 priests by way of atonement for individual iniquities. The 
 Padre Cartine was particularly ingenious and happy in im- 
 posing them. Lazy fellows and bon vivants, to whom he 
 thought exercise and fasting would prove beneficial, he sent 
 bare-footed and alone to El Viejo, or some place at a distance, 
 under the restriction to speak to no human being on the 
 way, nor to eat, nor yet to sleep, until their return. A 
 heavy stone, Tough and angular, had sometimes to be carried 
 on the naked shoulders of the penitent, or a cross of heavy 
 wood, according to the more or less heinous nature of the 
 poor devil's offences. Carpenters, masons, and all other 
 valuable sinners, whose labor could be turned to good ac- 
 count, the Padre set to work in repairing or improving his 
 church and the buildings attached to it, and never failed to 
 put the good workmen " well in for it." Occasionally he 
 got hold of a stupid fellow who failed to perform a profitable 
 day's labor. In such cases the Padre had a whip, made of 
 the skin of the dante, or tapir, which he scrupled not to apply 
 to the delinquent's back, for the benefit of his soul, and the 
 acceleration of the particular job in hand. And it is report- 
 ed that these applications are sometimes accompanied with 
 terms more forcible than complimentary; but I don't vouch 
 for the truth of that. 
 
 For one or two months during my stay in Leon, the Padre 
 had under his surveillance a priest, suspended for licentious 
 conduct, with whom lie was extremely rigorous. I was an 
 accidental witness of his severity on one occasion, when the 
 Host was passing. The suspended Padre, in common with 
 all the people, came to the door, but instead of bending like 
 the rest on the hard threshold, he knelt comfortably in a 
 soft-bottomed chair. The indignant monk saw the dodge, 
 
"'■' ■•■'■■■"■ : • 
 
 THE DIOCESS OF NICARAGUA. 
 
 391 
 
 and rising hastily, with a vigorous blow of his foot knocked 
 the chair from underneath the delinquent, who came down 
 with a force which must have jarred every bone in his sinful 
 body. The course of fasting and prayer through which that 
 priest was "put" by the Padre Cartine, if report speaks true, — 
 midnight vigils, and noonday masses, — would have reformed 
 Silenus, and made a saint of Bacchus. 
 
 Nicaragua and Costa Rica together constitute a Diocess of 
 a very ancient date. It was organized as early as 1526. For 
 the period intervening between 1832 and 1849, the Bishop's 
 chair was vacant ; but in the latter year Don George Vite- 
 ri Y Ungo, once Secretary of State of Guatemala, and sub- 
 sequently Bishop of San Salvador, received the appointment, 
 and is now in discharge of its functions. I have already 
 described him as a man of great intelligence, and polished 
 manners. lie has travelled much, and never fails to leave a 
 favorable impression on the minds of foreigners. Yet in the 
 country he is accounted an intrigante, and does not seem to 
 enjoy the full confidence of the leading inhabitants, who 
 nevertheless treat him with all respect and courtesy. While 
 Bishop of San Salvador, he is said to have taken an undue 
 interest in political affairs, and this was the cause of his de- 
 position from that diocess; for the people of San Salvador 
 are quite as liberal in religion as politics, and will tolerate no 
 interference in public affairs by the clergy, as such. They 
 nevertheless concede to them the utmost latitude as individu- 
 als, and while making no distinctions in their favor, make 
 none against them. 
 
 In respect to Education, both amongst the clergy and the 
 people of Nicaragua, little need bo said, except that the 
 standard is exceedingly low. I spare myself the painful ne- 
 cessity of writing upon the subject, by translating the follow- 
 ing impartial passages from a private letter on this point, 
 addressed to me by one of the best informed and patriotic 
 citizens of Leon. A knowledge of their own deficiencies and 
 
^■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■1 
 
 
 392 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 wants, by any people, is indispensable to secure a remedy ; 
 and the fact that some of the best men in Nicaragua are 
 looking the evils of ignorance full in the face, is one of the 
 best signs in the horoscope of the country. 
 
 "Education in Nicaragua," says my correspondent, "is 
 generally much neglected; particularly in the departments 
 of Chontales and Segovia, where there are some towns with- 
 out a single teacher of any grade. Here the elements of edu- 
 cation are only taught, if taught at all, by the fathers of 
 families to their children, in the evening before going to bed; 
 but this instruction seldom reaches beyond learning them to 
 repeat their catechism. In these places, as also in some 
 others where there are teachers, it is a common thing for 
 parents to send their children to the house of some poor 
 neighbor, where they are taught the catechism, and to make 
 certain pot-hooks, called writing. These apologies for teach- 
 ers have no recompense beyond an occasional small present. 
 The mode adopted by them is to repeat the lesson once or 
 twice viva voce, with the children ; and their principal occu- 
 pation consists in permittting the latter to do what they 
 please, and in assisting them in doing it ! 
 
 "In the towns where there are teachers, there are seldom 
 more than one or two public schools ; in the larger places 
 there are. perhaps, a few more, but unfortunately all of pretty 
 nearly the same character with those above described. In 
 liicsc schools are taught only the fundamental doctrines of 
 Christianity, reading and writing ; nor is this done in accord- 
 ance with any good system, but generally by a process which 
 is little better than a burlesque. The lesson is repeated after 
 the master, simultaneously by the whole school, and it is 
 difficult to say which shouts loudest, the master or the 
 scholars; but it is always easy to tell the proximity of a 
 sehoolhouse, from the noise. The localities of these schools 
 are generally bad and filthy, as is also the clothing of the 
 scholars, which often consists of nothing more than a shirt. 
 
jW Mw jPlHKiH g ||PpjPM 
 
 POPULAR EDUCATION. 
 
 393 
 
 In some of the towns, as Masaya, Managua, and Chinandega, 
 the public schools are filled to overflowing, and as each one 
 has no more than a single teacher, he can only bestow a very 
 superficial attention upon the individual scholars. In these 
 towns there are also some higher schools, in which Latin is 
 taught, after the old method, painful alike to teacher and 
 student, and generally with no result except the knowledge 
 that Senor Fulano has studied this language for so many 
 years ! There are also, in these towns, phantom classes in 
 what is called Philosophy, the extent of whose acquirements 
 consists in studying badly, and understanding worse, some 
 paragraphs in Lugdunensis. 
 
 "Besides their public schools, both Granada and Leon 
 have each a University. That of Leon is oldest, having 
 been founded in the year 1675. 
 
 " In these Universities are taught the following branches : 
 Latin and Spanish Grammar, Philosophy, Civil and Canoni- ' 
 cal Law, and Theology. Lately a class in English has been 
 organized in that of Leon ; and a class in both English and 
 French in that of Granada. Of Mathematics and other cog- 
 nate branches nothing is taught, nor scarcely anything 
 known. The authority in Spanish is Alemany ; in Latin, 
 Nebrisa ; in Philosophy, Lugdunensis ; in Civil Law, Salas ; 
 in Canonical Law, Devoti ; in Theology, Larraga. The time 
 devoted to these studies is, to Spanish, Grammar, and Latin, 
 two years and a half ; to Philosophy, two years; Civil and 
 Canonical Law, and Theology, three years. But many have 
 not the patience to go through the prescribed time, and leap- 
 ing over these various branches of study, succeed in securing 
 their titles. There are priests, in orders, who have never so 
 much as read the Padre Larraga ! 
 
 " In order to obtain the degrees and secure the tassel, it is 
 
 not necessary to know much ; it is enough to have a general 
 
 idea or two, to stand well with the professors, be able to 
 
 pay the fees punctually, to spread a good table of refresh- 
 
 50 
 
^W&rdf 
 
 ^4f??0f $'?$$$ *£%'i ■ *??**$ 
 
 ^M 
 
 ^H 
 
 394 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 ments, and to have a blazing display of fireworks. I have 
 known instances in which the candidate did not answer well 
 more than a single question, and yet obtained unanimously 
 the degree which he sought. There arc more Bachelors than 
 men ; Doctors swarm everywhere ; and there are families of 
 wealth and influence in which the tassel goes (practically) by 
 descent ! 
 
 " The professors of Languages and Civil Law in 1850, in 
 Leon, were very good ; but the professor in the latter depart- 
 ment, occupied with other matters, has permitted his place 
 to be very poorly filled by certain Bachelors. In fact, all the 
 professors do but little ; principally because their salaries are 
 insignificant in amount, seldom exceeding $200 per annum. 
 Their lectures are got through with very rapidly, rarely 
 occupying more than an hour each, and are scarcely ever 
 illustrated, or enforced by examples in point. 
 
 " Concerning the University of Granada, I am not well 
 informed, but it is doubtless on about the same footing with 
 that of Leon ; or, if any comparison may be instituted, some- 
 thing worse. 
 
 " To the defects in the system of Education in Nicaragua 
 is to be ascribed, in great part, the troubles with which the 
 State has been afflicted. There is nothing practical in the 
 lessons which are taught in the schools ; the studies are all 
 abstract, and the fixedness of character and liberality of 
 views which follow from a knowledge of the present condi- 
 tion and relations of the world, an understanding of modern 
 sciences, Geograplry, Chemistry, Mineralogy, Mathematics, 
 Engineering, etc., etc., are never attained. The men of 
 education, so called, are therefore mere creatures of circum- 
 stances and impulses, in common with the most ignorant 
 portion of the population, and fully as vacillating in their 
 ideas. Their education is just sufficient to give them power 
 to do mischief, instead performing the legitimate office of 
 truly comprehensive acquirements, that of a balance-wheel. 
 

 i^ : .^V^;^he^>K/? v;*k:.? 
 
 ?**>*>KX-t*-»f<**--^» 
 
 EDUCATION IN NICARAGUA. 
 
 395 
 
 What may be called the moral effect of an education, that 
 which contributes to form the character of the man and 
 mould it upon a just model, is wanting in the system, or 
 rather no-system, not only of Nicaragua, but of all the other 
 Spanish American States. 
 
 " In Nicaragua, therefore, in the absence of teachers, 
 methods, books, instruments, and of nearly all the elements 
 of teaching, there is nothing which can properly be called 
 education. 1 Not because there are no latent capacities or 
 dispositions for learning amongst the people ; nor do I mean 
 to say that there is a total absence of really cultivated and 
 well-educated men. On the contrary, there a number who 
 have had opportunities of acquiring education through the 
 assistance of private teachers, or Avho have perfected them- 
 selves abroad; but these are lost in the mass of ignorance 
 and shallow acquirements which surround them. 
 
 " In Leon, I may add, there are ten or a dozen schools, in 
 some of which there is an average daily attendance of two 
 hundred scholars. The highest pay of teachers is ten dollars 
 per month." 
 
 But notwithstanding the general deficiency in education, 
 and the means of acquiring it, there exists a most laudable 
 
 1 " The books employed," says Mr. Crowe, " besides the gloomy charac- 
 ter of their contents, are in bulk sufficient to discourage the most enter- 
 prising child. They are four or five in number, consisting of heavy vol- 
 umes, which make an antique collection, heavy and dry enough to dis- 
 courage adults. First 'La Cartilla,' containing the alphabet, the forms of 
 prayer, and the commandments of the Church, with no attempt at grada- 
 tion. The second, 'El Canon,' the third, 'El Catecismo,' and fourth, 'El 
 Ramillete.' All these, which are much larger than the first, contain theo- 
 logical definitions, digests of doctrines, creeds, holy legends, and devotional 
 formulas, addressed to the Virgin and the Saints. Through every one of 
 these the unhappy scholar is doomed to wade from beginning to end ; and 
 so deep is his aversion to the task, and so great is the triumph when a 
 child has overcome one of these obstacles to his progress, that the event is 
 actually celebrated in his family by feasting." — p. 287. 
 

 ^^H |H H|H 
 
 396 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 ambition to secure its benefits. The States of Nicaragua, San 
 Salvador, and Costa Eica, offer the largest encouragement to 
 the establishment of schools of every grade. Under the old 
 Confederation, during the dominance of the Liberals, the 
 most effective means were adopted to educate the people. 
 The officers of the army and the subordinates of the Govern- 
 ment, when not occupied with the immediate duties of their 
 stations, opened free schools in the barracks of the soldiery, 
 in the offices of customs, and the rooms of the general and 
 local courts. The house of the National Government, at 
 the close of office hours, became an academy. But the sys- 
 tem of education, as all the other plans of improvement 
 originating with the Liberals, were suspended during the 
 disturbances created by the Serviles, and overthrown when- 
 ever and wherever the latter attained ascendancy. In the 
 new career now opening before Central America, the subject 
 of education claims and no doubt will receive the first atten- 
 tion of the respective States. But nothing beneficial can be 
 done without a complete abandonment of the old systems of 
 teaching — old authorities and books, and the substitution of 
 others adapted to the age, and the state of general knowledge 
 amongst civilized nations. If creeds and catechisms are still 
 required, let them be assigned their proper time and place ; 
 they constitute no part of an education, and are chilling and 
 oppressing in their influences on the youthful mind. The 
 sooner this fact is not only understood, but acted upon, in 
 Central America, the better for its people. 
 

 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 VISIT TO TnE CAPITAL CITY, MANAGUA LEGISLATIVE ASSEMBLY; HOW TO 
 
 PROCURE A QUORUM — EXECUTIVE MESSAGE — RATIFICATION OF TREATY WITH 
 
 THE UNITED STATES — ANTIQUITIES LAKE OF NIIIAPA IIUERTAS — DIVIDING 
 
 RIDGE — TRACES OF VOLCANIC ACTION HACIENDA DE GANADO — AN EXTEN- 
 SIVE PROSPECT EXTINCT CRATER ANCIENT PAINTINGS ON THE CLIFFS 
 
 SYMBOLICAL FEATHERED SERPENT A NATURAL TEMPLE — SUPERSTITIONS OF 
 
 THE INDIANS SALT LAKE LAGUNA DE LAS LAVADORAS A COURIER THREE 
 
 MONTHS LATER FROM nOME TnE SHORE OF LAKE MANAGUA — ABORIGINAL 
 
 FISHERIES ANCIENT CARVING — POPULATION OF MANAGUA RESOURCES OF 
 
 SURROUNDING COUNTRY — COFFEE INHABITANTS — VISIT TIPITAPA SUNRISE 
 
 ON THE LAKE HOT SPRINGS — OUTLET OF LAKE — MUD AND ALLIGATORS 
 
 DRY CHANNEL VILLAGE OF TIPITAPA SURLY nOST SALTO DE TIPITAPA 
 
 HOT SPRINGS AGAIN STONE BRIDGE FACE OF THE COUNTRY NICARAGUA 
 
 OR BRAZIL WOOD ESTATE OF PASQUIEL — PRACTICAL COMMUNISM — MATA- 
 
 PALO OR KILL-TREE — LANDING AND ESTERO OF PASQUIEL OR PANALOYA 
 
 RETURN — DEPTn OF LAKE MANAGUA COMMUNICATION BETWEEN THE TWO 
 
 LAKES — POPULAR ERRORS. 
 
 Althouh Leon is de facto the seat of the Nicaraguan 
 Government, yet the framers of the existing constitution of 
 the State, in view of the rivalry and jealousy which exist be- 
 tween the cities of Granada and Leon, and in order to relieve 
 the Legislative Assembly from the overawing political influ- 
 ence of the latter, designated the city of Managua as the place 
 of its meeting. The choice was in many respects a good 
 one ; Managua is not only central as regards position, but 
 its inhabitants are distinguished for their attachment to "law 
 and order," and their deference to constituted government. 
 
 The task of getting together the members of the Assem- 
 bly, which is comprised of a House of Deputies and a Sen- 
 
■€$£-*■ ■ 
 
 &$£$£ ?^^ 
 
 HH 
 
 398 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 ate, is not an easy one. The attractions of the city of Mana- 
 gua are not great : the pay is only a dollar and a half per 
 diem, and such is the precarious condition of the Treasury, 
 that this small sum is not always secure. Nor are there any 
 profitable contracts to be obtained for friends, with contin- 
 gent reversions to incorruptible members ; no mileage to 
 speak of; in fact, few if any of those inducements to patriotic 
 zeal which make our citizens so ambitious of seats in the 
 National Congress. As a consequence, it is usually necessary, 
 in order to secure a constitutional quorum for the transac- 
 tion of business, to announce beforehand that a sufficient 
 sum for the payment of members is actually in the Treasury, 
 and will be reserved for that express purpose. But even 
 this is not always sufficient, and the Government has several 
 times come to a stand still for want of a quorum. An in- 
 stance of this kind occurred during the administration of 
 Gen. Guerrero, who found himself for a week in Managua, 
 with his cabinet officers around him, but utterly unable to 
 act. The Assembly lacked two of a quorum, and precisely 
 that number of members, elected from the city of Leon, 
 were absent. They were the Licenciado Z., and the Doctor 
 of Medicine J., men of mark in the country, but for a variety 
 of reasons not then desirous of committing themselves on the 
 measures of public policy which were to be brought before 
 the Chambers. The Director wrote to them, stating the con- 
 dition of the Assembly, and soliciting their immediate attend- 
 ance. The lawyer excused himself on the ground of illness, 
 and the doctor, because he had no horse, nor money for his 
 expenses. But they mistook their man ; in a few minutes 
 after their replies were received, the General had despatched 
 two officers of the National Guard to Leon, and be lore day- 
 light the next morning the Licenciado was politely waited 
 upon by one of them, attended by a file of soldiers, and in- 
 formed that there was an-ox cart at the door, with a good 
 bed of straw, in which the soldiers would carefully lift him, 
 

 HOW TO PROCURE A QUORUM. 
 
 399 
 
 and where he would find the army doctor, to administer to 
 his necessities during his journey to Managua. The Licen- 
 ciado expostulated, but the officer looked at his watch and 
 coolly observed that the cart must start in precisely three 
 minutes, and dead or alive the Licenciado must go. The 
 doctor was waited upon in like manner, with the information 
 that the Director had sent his own horse for his accommoda- 
 tion, and four rials (half a dollar) for his expenses, and that 
 he had five minutes wherein to prepare himself for the ex- 
 cursion ! It is needless to add that the lawyer was suddenly 
 cured, and that both he and the delinquent doctor duly 
 filled out the quorum at Managua. They each tell the story 
 now as an exceedingly good joke, but the General avers that 
 at the time of their appearance in their seats, their manners 
 and temper were far from angelic. 
 
 The Legislative Assembly had been called to meet on the 
 15th of September, to act on the treaty just negotiated with 
 the United States, and on the canal contract which had been 
 conceded to certain American citizens, under the conditional 
 guaranty of their government. The hopes of the people 
 were much elevated, from the nature of the subjects to be 
 brought before the Assembly, and it was thought that the 
 constitutional quorum would be got together at the time 
 appointed, without resort to any extraordinary measures for 
 the purpose of securing it. It was not, however, until the 
 19th that we received official information of the organiza- 
 tion of the Chambers, and we lost no time in proceeding to 
 Managua, where Pedro Blanco had long before received 
 orders to prepare a house for our reception, and to adopt 
 efficient measures for the extirpation of " las pulgas." We 
 left Leon on the afternoon of one day, and reached Managua 
 during the forenoon of the next. Don Pedro had newly 
 white-washed a house, occupying the "esquina," or corner 
 opposite his own, and installed a couple of servants, in an- 
 
HNBW nB 
 
 400 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 ticipation of our arrival. So we were at once comfortably 
 provided for. 
 
 The address, or message, of the Director had been deliv- 
 ered in joint meeting of the two Houses on the morning of 
 our arrival, and everything was going on smoothly and har- 
 moniously in the Assembly. It was, according to custom, 
 delivered in person, to the two Houses in convention, and 
 responded to by the President of the Senate. The subjoined 
 passages from both the address and reply, for reasons already 
 given, will prove of interest. The Director, Sefior Ra- 
 mirez said: 
 
 " I experience the liveliest emotions of joy in witnessing once more 
 the union of the representatives of the Nicaragua!) people, after the terri- 
 ble tempest which has passed over the country, and which at one time 
 threatened not only to subvert its liberties, but to destroy its very exist- 
 ence as a civilized nation. Brighter days have succeeded to that period 
 of confusion and fear, and we are now again enjoying the unspeakable 
 blessings of peace. In view of this happy result, your satisfaction. Citi- 
 zen Representatives, must equal my own ; and I am sure that the desires 
 for the future happiness and prosperity of Nicaragua which swell my 
 own bosom, and to which words are too weak to give utterance, exist 
 also in yours. 
 
 " We have undoubtedly arrived at a crisis in our national career. After 
 unparalleled sufferings, heroically endured, our country has risen from the 
 abasement to which many years of civil war and the ferocious passions of 
 men had reduced it. But these evils have only passed away to give 
 place to others scarcely less deplorable, resulting from foreign pretensions 
 and aggressions. From these it. is our obvious duty, not less than our 
 only safety, to solicit the interposition of some powerful and friendly 
 arm. Should this be generously extended in our favor, we may smile at 
 the intrigues and harmless malice of the enemies of society and social 
 order, which exist in our midst. We may then look forward with well- 
 grounded anticipations of a glorious future. We may then devote our 
 energies to the development of our almost limitless resources, to the pro- 
 motion of commerce and industry, the revival of education, the improve- 
 ment of our roads and our navigable lakes and rivers; — in fact, to all 
 those grand and useful objects to which no government, unless at peace 
 
y>^Z*vSKZ? ■ '-r-TK 
 
 ADDRESS OF DIRECTOR. 
 
 401 
 
 with the world, and free from foreign interference and annoyance, can 
 successfully devote its energies. 
 
 " For this relief we need not despair. We may yet be called upon to 
 make sacrifices to secure it; but it must come with the successful prose- 
 cution of that grand enterprise of connecting the two great oceans, which 
 is now occupying the paramount attention of the commercial world : — an 
 enterprise which is not only fraught with immense results to trade, but 
 which must work a total change in the political and moral relations ot 
 all the countries of the globe ; the greatest work, not of this cycle alone, 
 but of all ages. 
 
 " As a direct and essential step toward the consummation of this grand 
 enterprise, with its train of consequences so important to our indepen- 
 dence and prosperity, I have the honor to submit a Treaty of Alliance, 
 Friendship, Commerce, and Protection, negotiated with the Honorable 
 Plenipotentiary of the great and enlightened Republic of the United 
 States of North America, and a contract for opening a Ship Canal, con- 
 cluded between the agent of an American Company and this Government, 
 — upon both of which you will be called to act, in conformity with the 
 constitution." 
 
 The President of the Senate, Dox Toribo Teran, re- 
 sponded to this address at length. The tenor of his remarks 
 will appear from the following passages : 
 
 "Sir, this Assembly is actuated by the earnest desire of cooperating 
 
 with the Executive in whatever shall pr ote the interests or the glory 
 
 of the State; and offers its prayers to Heaven for light and guidance in 
 the discharge of its intricate duties. It, desires me to felicitate you upon 
 the wisdom and firmness with which you discharged the responsible duties 
 of your position during the late troubles, and which saved the State from 
 the terrors which at one time impended on the political horizon. It con- 
 gratulates you also upon the dignity and skill with which you have con- 
 ducted the foreign relations of the country, which have raised it in the 
 estimation of other and more powerful nations, and secured for it their 
 sympathy and confidence. 
 
 "The efforts and sacrifices of the State in support of civil and social 
 order have been great, but most happily successful; the hydra of anarchy 
 is crushed, and, so far as the internal relations of our country are con- 
 cerned, we look forward to a peaceful future, and a rapid and constant 
 progress. To foreign pretensions ami the territorial aggressions with which 
 we have been persecuted, and which are now the onlv sources of disquiet 
 
 51 
 
*--'#'-M&"**4^1K 
 
 ^.^^v^-^Mi* 
 
 '■•pr'.^">. ;'•*,'•*? 
 
 402 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 to the State, let us hope for the early interposition of that nation to which 
 we have always been accustomed to look as a model for ourselves — a 
 nation powerful, enlightened, and naturally called to defend our territory, 
 in conformity with the great and glorious principle which it was the first 
 to proclaim, and which finds a response in every American heart, viz. : 
 that ' The American Continent belongs to Americans, and is sacred to 
 Republican Institutions.' " 
 
 It will not be out of place to add here, that both treaty and 
 contract were unanimously ratified, at the earliest moment, 
 after passing through the forms prescribed by the constitu- 
 tion, — a proof of the confidence and friendship of the people 
 and Government of Nicaragua, which we, as Americans, 
 should never forget. The news of the event was everywhere 
 received with extraordinar}^ demonstrations of satisfaction 
 and joy; and it is most earnestly to be desired that the hopes 
 which it created may not, from the mistaken policy of Gov- 
 ernment, or the bad faith of companies, owing their very 
 existence to Nicaraguan generosity, give place to despair, and 
 respect be changed into contempt, and friendship into hate. 
 
 I had heard much in Leon of ancient monuments in the 
 vicinity of Managua, and particularly of an ancient Indian 
 temple cut in the solid rock, on the shore of a small lake, 
 amongst the hills at the back of the city. I now learned that 
 the lake was called Nihapa, and that upon the rocks which 
 surrounded it were many figures, executed in red paint, con- 
 cerning the origin of which nothing was known, but which 
 were reported to be very ancient, " hechando antes la Con- 
 quista," made before the Conquest. The next morning, 
 having meanwhile procured a guide, we started for this lake. 
 The path, for a league, led through a beautiful level coun- 
 try, magnificently wooded, and relieved by open cultivated 
 spaces, which were the hattos and huertas of the inhabitants 
 of Managua. Nearly every one of these had a small cane 
 hut, picturesquely situated amidst a group of palms or fruit 
 trees, in its centre, reached by broad paths beneath archways 
 
ROAD TO NIIIAPA. 
 
 403 
 
 of plantains. Here the owners reside when weary of the 
 town. We overtook hundreds of Indian laborers, with a tor- 
 tilla and a bit of cheese in a little net-work bag thrown over 
 one shoulder, pantaloons tucked up to the thighs, and carry- 
 ing in the right hand, or resting in the hollow of the left 
 arm, the eternal machete, the constant companion of every 
 mozo, which he uses as an axe to clear the forest, a spade to 
 dig the earth, a knife wherewith to divide his meat, and a 
 weapon in case of attack. Passing the level country adja- 
 cent to the city, we came to the base of the hills which inter- 
 vene between the lake and the sea. Here, at every step, 
 traces of volcanic action met our view, and the path became 
 rough and crooked, winding amongst disrupted rocks, and 
 over broad beds of lava. The latter extended down the side 
 of the ridge, showing that anciently there had existed a 
 crater somewhere above us, now concealed by the heavy 
 forest. The eruptions, however, must have taken place 
 many centuries ago, for the lava was disintegrated at the sur- 
 face, and afforded a luxuriant foothold for vines, bushes, and 
 trees. For this reason, although we 'knew that we had at- 
 tained an elevated position, we found it impossible to see 
 beyond the evergreen arches which bent above us, and which 
 the rays of the sun failed to penetrate. The ascent was 
 steep, and our progress slow, — so slow that a troop of indig- 
 nant monkeys, swinging from branch to branch, grimacing, 
 and threatening vehemently, was able to keep pace with us. 
 We fired our pistols at them, and worked up their feelings to 
 a pitch of excitement and rage, humiliatingly like the ebulli- 
 tions of humanity. These amusing denizens of the forest, 
 I frequently observed, seem annoyed by the presence of 
 white men, and will fret and chatter at their approach, while 
 the brown natives of the country may pass and repass, if not 
 without attracting their notice, at least without provoking 
 their anger. 
 
 At the distance of about two leagues and a half from 
 
MSB 
 
 ■■■■■■■■ 
 
 404 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 Managua, we reached what appeared to be a broad, broken 
 table-land, the summit of the dividing range intervening be- 
 tween the Lake and Ocean. We had not proceeded far, 
 before we discovered a high conical peak, made up of scorire 
 and ashes, and bare of trees, which had evidently been 
 formed by the matter thrown out from some neighboring 
 volcanic vent. Here our guide turned aside at right angles 
 to our path, and clearing the way with his machete, in a 
 few minutes led us to the edge of the ancient crater. It 
 was an immense orifice, fully half a mile across, with pre- 
 cipitous walls of black and riven rocks. At the bottom, 
 motionless and yellow, like a plate of burnished brass, was 
 the lake of Nihapa. The wall of the crater, upon the side 
 where we stood, was higher than at any other point, and the 
 brain almost reeled in looking over its ragged edge, down 
 upon the Acheronian gulf below. Upon the other side, the 
 guide assured us there was a path to the water, and there 
 too were the rock temple, and " los piedras pintadas." So 
 we fell back into our path again, and skirting along the base 
 of the cone of scorioe to which I have referred, after a brisk 
 ride of twenty minutes, came suddenly, and to our surprise, 
 upon a collection of huts pertaining to a cattle estate. Here 
 burst upon our sight an almost boundless view of moun- 
 tain, lake, and forest. Behind us towered the cone of 
 scorios, covered with a soft green mantle of grass. Upon 
 one side yawned the extinct crater with its waveless lake ; 
 upon the other were ridges of lava, and ragged piles of tra- 
 ck vtic rock, like masses of iron ; while in front, in the fore- 
 ground, stood the picturesque cane huts of the vaqueros, 
 clustered round with tall palms and the broad translucent 
 leaves of the plantain. But beyond all, — beyond the moun- 
 tain slopes and billowy hills, shrouded with never-fading 
 forests, among which, like fleecy clouds of white and crimson 
 reflected in a sea of green, rose the tops of flowering trees, — 
 beyond these, flashing back the light of the morning sun 
 

 LAKE NIHAPA. 
 
 405 
 
 from its bosom, spread out the Lake of Managua, with its 
 fairy islets and distant, dreamy shores ! 
 
 We left our horses at the huts, and followed a broad, well- 
 beaten path which led to the point where the walls of the 
 extinct crater were lowest. Here we found a narrow path 
 between the rocks, barely wide enough to admit a horse to 
 pass. It had in part been formed by man, probably before 
 the Conquest, when, according to the early chroniclers, even 
 these hills were thronged by a happy and industrious people. 
 The descent for a few hundred feet was very steep, between 
 high walls of rock. It then turned short, and ran along the 
 face of the cliff, where fallen masses of stone afforded a foot- 
 hold, and elinging trees curtained with vines concealed 
 yawning depths and perilous steeps, which would otherwise 
 have dizzied the head of the adventurous traveller. Near 
 the bottom the path widened, and at the water's brink we 
 reached a kind of platform, edged with rocks, where the 
 cattle from the haciendas came down to drink, and whence 
 the vaqueros of the huts obtained water for their own use. 
 Here a few trees found root, affording a welcome shelter 
 from tlu; rays of the sun; for the breezes which fan the hill- 
 sides never reach the surface of this almost buried lake. 
 
 The walls of the ancient crater are everywhere precipit- 
 ous, and at the lowest point probably not less than five hun- 
 dred feet in height. Except at the preeise spot where we 
 stood, the lake washed the cliffs, which went down, sheer 
 down, to unknown depths. We looked up, and the clouds 
 as they swept over seemed to touch the trees which crowned 
 the lofty edges of the precipice, over which the vines hung 
 in green festoons. 
 
 Upon the vertical face of the cliff were painted, in bright 
 red, a great variety of figures. These were the " piedras 
 pintadas" of which we had heard. Unfortunately, however, 
 long exposure had obliterated nearly all of the paintings ; 
 but most conspicuous amongst those still retaining their out- 
 
1 ■ i *>$?tf^0fy vtyP'tfty WKm - JKSrtBI Bjn 
 
 400 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 lines perfect, or nearly so, was one which, to me, had pecu- 
 liar interest and signilicance. Upon the most prominent 
 part of the cliff, some thirty or forty feet above our heads, 
 was painted the figure of a coiled, plumed, or feathered ser- 
 
 L A K E S I H A P A — AN i: Xl'INCT C R A T K R 
 
 pent, called by the Indians "el Sol," the sun. Amongst 
 the semi-civilized nations of America, from Mexico south- 
 ward, as also amongst many nations of the old world, the 
 serpent was a prominent religious symbol, beneath which 
 was concealed the profoundest significance. Under many of 
 its aspects it coincided with the sun, or was the symbol of 
 the Supreme Divinity of the heathens, of which the sun was 
 one of the most obvious emblems. In the instance of the 
 painting before us, the plumed, sacred serpent of the abo- 
 

 


 PAINTED ROCKS. 
 
 407 
 
 rigines was artfully depicted so as to combine both symbols 
 in one. The figure was about three feet in diameter, and is 
 accurately represented in the accompanying Plate 1, Fig. 1. 
 Above it, and amongst some confused lines of partially ob- 
 literated paintings, not represented in the sketch, was the 
 tigure of a human hand, — the red hand which, haunted M r. 
 Stephens during all of his explorations amongst the monu- 
 ments of Yucatan, where it was the symbol of the divinity 
 Kab-ul, the Author of Life, and God of the Working Hand.' 
 Upon some rocks a little to the right of the cliff upon 
 which is this representation of the serpent, there were for- 
 merly large paintings of the sun and moon, together, as our 
 guide said, " con muchos geroglificos," with many hiero- 
 glyphics. But the section upon which they were painted, 
 was thrown down during the great earthquake of 1838. 
 Parts of the figures can yet be traced upon some of the fallen 
 fragments. Besides these figures, there were traces of hun- 
 dreds of others, which, however, could not be satisfactorily 
 made out. Some, we could discover, had been of regular 
 outline, and from their relative proportions, I came to the 
 conclusion that a certain degree of dependence had existed 
 between them. One in particular attracted my attention. 
 not less from its regularity than from the likeness which it 
 sustains to certain figures in the painted historical and ritual 
 MSS. of Mexico. It is designated by Fig. 2, in the same 
 Plate with the figure of the serpent already described. 
 
 Upon various detached rocks, lying next to the water. 
 
 ' Those who feel interested in the subject of symbolism as it existed 
 amongst the American semi-civilized nations, or as connected with their 
 religions systems, will find it illustrated to a certain extent, in mv work 
 entitled " The Serpent Symbol and the Worship ok the Reciprocal Prin- 
 ciples of Nature in America," in which particular prominence has been 
 given to the worship of ihe serpent, so extensively diffused, and yet so 
 enigmatical. These are subjects which it is not my design to discuss in a 
 popular work like the present. 
 
HflBH &&$ ■ &£§ HN9B 
 
 HHH 
 
 408 
 
 X [i !A RAG UA — NAKIIATI VE. 
 
 beneath trailing vines, or but half revealed above fallen debris 
 and vegetable accumulations, we discovered numerous other 
 outline figures, some exceedingly rude, representing men and 
 animals, together with many impressions of the human hand. 
 Some of these are represented in Plate II. 
 
 By carefully poising myself on the very edge of the 
 narrow shelf or shore, I could discover, beyond an ad- 
 vanced column of rock, the entrance to the so-called exca- 
 vated temple of the ancient Indians. I saw at once that it 
 was nothing more than a natural niche in the cliff; but yet 
 to settle the matter conclusively, I stripped, and, not without 
 some repugnance, swam out in the sulphurous looking lake, 
 and around the intervening rocks, to the front of the open- 
 ing. It was, as I had supposed, a natural arch, about thirty 
 feet high, and ten or fifteen feet deep ; and seen from the 
 opposite cliff, no doubt appeared to the superstitious Indians 
 like the portal of a temple The paintings of which they 
 had spoken, were only discolorations produced by the fires 
 which had once flamed up from the abyss where now slum- 
 bered the opposing element. Our guide told us that there 
 were many other paintings on the cliffs, which could only be 
 reached by means of a raft or boat. The next day M. re- 
 turned with a canoe from Managua; it was got down with 
 great difficulty, and in it we coasted the entire lake, but 
 without discovering anything new or interesting. 
 
 We were told that there were alligators in this lake, but 
 we saw none, and still remain decidedly skeptical upon 
 that point, notwithstanding the positive assertions of the 
 vaqueros. That it abounded in fish, however, we could 
 not fail to discover, for they swarmed along the edge of the 
 water, and at the foot of the cliffs. This lake was no doubt 
 anciently held in high veneration by the Indians ; for it is still 
 regarded with a degree of superstitious fear by their descend- 
 ants. Our guide told us of evil demons who dwelt within its 
 depths, and vengefully dragged down the swimmers who 
 
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SUPERSTITIONS OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 409 
 
 ventured out upon its gloomy waters. It was easy to im- 
 agine that here the aboriginal devotees had made sacrifices 
 to their mountain gods, the divinities who presided over the 
 internal fires of the earth, or who ruled the waters. This half 
 buried lake, with no perceptible opening, situated amidst 
 melted rocks, on the summit of a mountain, with all of its 
 accessories of dread and mystery, was well calculated to 
 rouse the superstitious fears and secure the awe of a people 
 distinguished above all others for a gloomy fancy, which in- 
 vested nearly all of its creations with features of terror and 
 severity, — creations whose first attribute was vengeance, and 
 whose most acceptable sacrifices were palpitating hearts, torn 
 from the breasts of human victims. 
 
 It was past noon before we had finished our investigations 
 at the lake, and we returned to the huts of the vaqueros 
 weary, hot, and hungry. The women — blessed hearts the 
 world over ! — swung hammocks for us in the shade, and we 
 lay down in luxurious enjoyment of the magnificent view, 
 while they ground the parched corn for the always welcome 
 cup of tiste. And although when Ave came to leave, they 
 charged us fully ten times as much for it as they would have 
 required of their own countrymen, yet they had displayed so 
 much alacrity in attending to our wants, that we sealed the 
 payment with as hearty a " mil gracias," as if it had been a 
 free offering. 
 
 Our guide took us back by a new path, in order to show 
 us what he called the Salt Lake. It was not an extinct 
 crater, like that of Nihapa, but one of those singular, funnel- 
 shaped depressions, so frequent in volcanic countries, and 
 which seem to have been caused by the sinking of the earth. 
 It was a gloomy looking place, with a greenish yellow pool 
 at the bottom, the water of which, our guide said, was salt 
 and bitter. The sides were steep, and covered with tangled 
 vines and bushes, and we did not attempt to descend. 
 
 There are other lakes, with musical Indian names, in the 
 52 
 
EMMW UgH^M 
 
 <^#^ ^^#%^ (BBB MM hBI NH MH 
 
 410 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 vicinity of Managua, which closely resemble that of Nihapa, 
 and owe their origin to similar causes. One of these occurs 
 within a mile of the town, and is a favorite resort for the 
 " lavadoras," or wash-women. It is reached by numerous 
 paths, some broad and bordered with cactus hedges, and 
 others winding through green coverts, where the stranger 
 often comes suddenly upon the startled Indian girl, whose 
 unshod feet have worn the hard earth smooth, and whose 
 hands have trained the vines into festooned arches above his 
 head. There is but one descent to this lake ; which in the 
 course of ages has been made broad and comparatively easy. 
 The shore is lined with large trees of magnificent foliage, 
 beneath the shadows of which the "lavadoras" carry on their 
 never ending operations. The water is cool and limpid ; and 
 the lake itself more resembles some immense fountain, where 
 bright streams might have their birth, rather than a fathom- 
 less volcanic pool, so well has nature concealed beneath a robe 
 of trees, and vines, and flowers, the evidences of ancient con- 
 vulsions, rocks riven by earthquakes, or melted by fires 
 from the incandescent depths of the earth. 
 
 It was late in the afternoon when we returned from Niha- 
 pa ; but whatever might have been the pleasure or satisfac- 
 tion of our visit, it went for nothing as compared with that 
 which we experienced in finding a courier from Granada, 
 bringing us letters and papers from the United States, three 
 months later than any we had yet received. Dinner was 
 forgotten in the eager haste to learn what the great world 
 had been about, all the time we had been vegetating amongst 
 orange and palm trees in this secluded corner of the world. 
 The trivial items of news which the dweller in Gotham, sip- 
 ping his coffee over the morning papers, would pass by with 
 an idle glance, were to us momentous matters, and every para- 
 graph of every column was religiously read, with a gusto 
 which no one but the traveller similarly situated can appre- 
 ciate. The newspaper is a luxury which the poorest day 
 
THREE MONTHS LATER FROM HOME. 
 
 411 
 
 laborer in the United States may possess ; and the American 
 would sooner deny himself his tea and coffee, than the satis- 
 faction of glancing over its columns, however dull, in the 
 morning, or after the labors of the day are closed, in the 
 evening. We missed many things, in Central America, 
 which we had come to regard as essential to our comfort and 
 happiness, but the newspaper most. Its place was very 
 poorly supplied by the Padre Paul's little " Correo del 
 Istmo," filled with government decrees, and published twice 
 a month. It was in vain that we looked there for our daily 
 home pabulum of "Late and Important by Telegraph" — 
 " Terrible Catastrophe !" " Horrible Explosion, and Pro- 
 bable Loss of Life !" served up in delectable fat type, and 
 profusely seasoned with exclamation points. For three 
 months we had not had our souls harrowed by the awful de- 
 tails of murder, nor our hearts sickened by recitals of treache- 
 ry, infamy, and crime ; knew nothing of what had followed 
 the Astor riot, whether the struggling Hungarians were free 
 or fallen. In fact the great drama of life, with its shifting 
 scenery, and startling denouements, so far as we were con- 
 cerned, had been suspended, — the world had gone on, on, 
 and it seemed as if we alone had bc6n left behind, — though 
 living, yet piratically dead and forgotten. No romance, 
 with its plots and highly colored incidents, in which fancy 
 and invention had exhausted itself, could compare in point 
 of interest with the columns of these newspapers, redolent 
 with the damp mustiness of a sea voyage, and the tobacco of 
 the courier's maleta, which wc now perused in silence, by the 
 aid of the tropical evening light, slowly swinging in our 
 hammocks, beneath the corridor of Pedro Blanco's house, 
 on the shores of the Lake of Managua ! 
 
 Towards evening all the women of Managua go down to 
 the lake shore, under the plausible pretext of filling their 
 water jars. And when it became too dark to read, we fell into 
 the movement, and followed by a train of youngsters, mostly 
 
*■-$&&.' She ^i^i^^^^^^^ 
 
 412 
 
 KIOAKAGUA — NAKKAT1VE. 
 
 naked, also went down to the shore, which was enlivened by 
 hundreds of merry groups — mozos bathing their horses out 
 in the surf, and girls filling their water jars in the clear water 
 beyond the breakers. At one point bushes were planted in 
 the lake, like fish wears, between which women were sta- 
 tioned with little scoop-nets, wherewith they laded out my- 
 riads of little silvery fishes, from the size of a large needle 
 to that of a shrimp, which they threw into kettle-shaped 
 holes, scooped in the sand, where in the evening light, leap- 
 ing up in their dying throes, they looked like a simmering 
 mass of molten silver. These little fishes are called sardinas 
 by the natives, and are cooked in omelets, constituting a very 
 excellent dish, and one which I never failed to order when- 
 ever I visited Managua. The first travellers in Nicaragua 
 mention this novel fishery as then practised by the aborigines, 
 and it has remained unchanged to the present hour. 
 
 In returning through a bye street to our own house, we 
 observed, within the open door of a rude cane hut, what we 
 first took to be a large painting, but which upon examination 
 proved to be a carving in wood. It was cut in high relief, 
 and represented, nearly of the size of life, a mounted cavalier, 
 dressed and armed after the style of the fifteenth century, hav- 
 ing in one hand a cross and in the other a sword. We were 
 struck with the spirit and execution of the carving, which 
 filled one entire side of the hut, and were told that it was a 
 representation of Hernando Cortez, the conqueror of Mexico. 
 The people in whose possession it then was knew nothing of 
 its history, beyond that it had been in the hands of their 
 family for more than seventy years. I subsequently inquired 
 of the " sabios" or sages of Managua about the figure, but 
 they could give me no information, except that it was very 
 ancient, and, according to tradition, represented Cortez. 
 Don Pedro Blanco and some others suggested that it might 
 
 DO O 
 
 have been intended for Santiago, the patron saint of Managua, 
 but gave no good reason for their conjecture. That it is very 
 
^H 
 
 H 
 
 ANCIENT CARVING. 
 
 413 
 
 ancient appears from a variety of circumstances, and from 
 none more clearly than the now half-obliterated paintings 
 
 ANCIENT CARVING IN WOOD; MANAGUA. 
 
 which fill the panel around the figure. These, in style of 
 execution, correspond entirely with the paintings made by 
 the Indians immediately subsequent to the Conquest, and 
 
 
■— 
 
 ■KB! ^i^MBWBBWllWWH^H BHmwmmpjl K i W ili 
 
 414 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 after their first acquaintance with the whites. They repre- 
 sent disembarkations, and battles between mounted, bearded 
 white men and naked Indians armed after their primitive 
 fashion. Dogs too, are represented participating in these 
 encounters, — mute witnesses to those atrocities which every- 
 where attended the Spanish arms in America, and to which 
 all the brilliancy of the achievements of Cortez, Alvarado, 
 Cordova, or Pizarro, can never blind the impartial historian. 
 Notwithstanding the popular tradition, I am disposed to 
 regard the figure as a representation not of Cortez, but of 
 Cordova, the conqueror of Nicaragua, or its first Governor, 
 Pedro Arias de Avila; perhaps of that daring Contreras who 
 meditated the vast design of separating all America from the 
 crown of Spain. 
 
 A number of idols, obtained from Momotombita and other 
 places, have been brought to 
 Managua, from time to time, 
 by the Indians, and planted 
 at the corners of the streets. 
 Nearly all of them, however, 
 are small, and have been so 
 much defaced as to possess 
 little interest. But one par- 
 ticularly arrest- 
 ed my attention. 
 It is set at one 
 of the corners of 
 a house, front- 
 ing on the little plaza of San 
 Juan, and is very well represent- 
 ed in the accompanying engraving. 
 It projects about four feet above the 
 
 ground, and pro- 
 
 bably extends 
 
 IDOL AT M A MAGUA, 
 
 \ 
 
 - 
 
 — 
 
POPULATION OF MANAGUA. 
 
 415 
 
 two or three feet below. In common with all others obtained 
 from Momotombita, it is black basalt. 
 
 The town of Managua now contains about ten or twelve 
 thousand inhabitants, who live in the simplest manner possi- 
 ble, manufacturing barely enough to supply their limited 
 wants, and carrying on but little trade. The region around 
 is very fertile, and capable of sustaining a large population. 
 The hill-slopes, between the lake and the sea, are well adapted 
 for the cultivation of coffee ; and the quality of that which is 
 produced from the few estates existing there, is regarded as 
 superior to the coffee of Costa Eica, which ranks next only 
 to the best Mocha. This valuable staple might be produced 
 here to any extent, and at comparatively little cost ; but the 
 condition of the country, and the general lack of enterprise 
 amongst the people, have prevented attention to this, as well 
 as every other branch of industry or source of wealth. 
 There is no part of Nicaragua which, from its position, 
 beauty, salubrity, and capacity for production, surpasses the 
 district around Managua ;' and here, it seems to me, is the 
 most favorable point for the commencement of any system 
 of colonization from the United States or from Europe. 
 
 This portion of the country was densely populated in 
 ancient times. After the expedition of Cordova, it was an- 
 nounced in Spain, that Managua was a city " nine miles 
 long ;" and this report of its extent and vast population, 
 amongst other things, induced Oviedo to visit the country. 
 1 [e seems to have been disappointed in respect to its size, 
 
 1 Capt. Belcher, who was here in 1838, says of Managua, that " it suf- 
 fered severely in the late cholera visitation; losing six hundred out of 
 the population of twelve thousand. Of this number it is rather remark- 
 able that females between the ages of fifteen and twenty-five, and prin- 
 cipally newly married, were the predominant victims. Generally this 
 place is considered as peculiarly healthy, the average deaths seldom ex- 
 ceeding one per cent." — Voyage round the World, vol. i. p. 172. 
 
UMMWIMWMMMMMMMMMIMIMMMM 
 
 (■jMIMfW 
 
 416 
 
 NICAE AGU A - -XAIi It ATIVE. 
 
 and denounces the reports which had been made in Spain, 
 as gross exaggerations, lie nevertheless adds : 
 
 " It was inhabited by Chorotegans, and, to tell the truth, it was a 
 beautiful and populous village, but so far from forming a city, was eoin- 
 posed of isolated houses, at considerable distance from each other. Before 
 it had been destroyed by war, it covered a great space, and resembled 
 the villages to be seen in the valley of Alva, in Biscay, in Gallieia, among 
 the mountains and valleys of Ibarra, where all the houses are in view of 
 each other and occupy considerable room. This village of Managua 
 extends in a line along the lake ; but so far from having three leagues 
 of extent, it scarcely has one. However, at the time of its prosperity, it 
 was the finest place of the province, and contained 40,000 inhabitants, of 
 which 10,000 were archers, or slingers. But when I visited it, six years 
 after the Conquest, it was the most completely abandoned and desolate 
 place of the government. It now contains 10,000 souls, of which 600 
 are archers. On the opposite side of the lake, is the domain of the 
 Cazique, Tipitapa, which has an extent of six leagues, and G,000 inhab- 
 itants, of which 800 are archers. 
 
 " In conclusion, from what I have heard from those who have visited 
 this country from the times of Gil Gonzalez Davila to those of Captain 
 Francisco Hernandez, the country was so populous that the inhabitants 
 may be said to have fairly swarmed. But this is not the place to speak 
 of the devastation of the country and the massacre of so many Indians." 
 
 From Managua we proposed to visit the Eio Tipitapa, or 
 Panaloya, the stream which connects the lake of Managua 
 with that of Nicaragua, and which, from the constant refer- 
 ences made to it, in all speculations concerning the opening 
 of a canal, has been invested with peculiar interest. We 
 accordingly engaged Victorino, our patron in the expedition 
 to Momotombita, to take us by water to the outlet of the 
 lake, a distance of twenty or twenty-five miles. In order to 
 have the entire day, or the greater part of it, to devote to our 
 investigations at Tipitapa, we directed Victorino to be in 
 readiness to start as early as two o'clock the next morning, 
 thinking, from our past experience in native tardiness, that 
 he would probably arrive at about four or live. But what 
 
SUNRISE ON LAKE MANAGUA. 
 
 417 
 
 was our horror, when he aroused us in the early stages of our 
 first doze (for we had gone to bed late), with the information 
 that all was ready ! It was just half-past one ; and although 
 I suspected that this early call was one of Victorino's practi- 
 cal jokes, yet we had been too precise in our directions to have 
 any good cause of complaint against him. So we dressed 
 ourselves silently, and followed the patron to the shore of 
 the lake. Here we found everything in readiness, and got 
 off, for the first time, at the appointed hour. 
 
 As I passed through the corridor, I had caught up a 
 blanket, with a vague idea of getting a nap in the boat, and 
 after we pushed off, wrapped myself in it with a chuckle, and 
 lay down to sleep. But the blanket was saturated with 
 fleas; sleep departed, and I was exercised in a most lively 
 manner, for the rest of the night. The men rowed in silence, 
 and the water of the lake looked black and forbidding under 
 the sable sky. It was with a feeling of relief, therefore, that 
 I discerned the tintings of morning, in the east. First, a 
 faint light revealed the outlines of the rugged mountains of 
 Chontales and Segovia, followed by a yellow, then a rosy 
 tinge, so faint that it might have been a mere fancy of the 
 spectator ; then it deepened, and the clouds, with their glow- 
 ing edges, and purple folds, disclosed their rich, deep masses 
 above the rim of the horizon, while the lake flung back 
 tremulously from its quivering bosom the reflected radiance 
 of the sky. Brighter and brighter, its rays shooting upwards 
 to the empyrean, and glowing on the summits of the volcanoes, 
 higher and higher, came up the monarch sun, until rising 
 above the horizon, he shone forth on the queenly earth, its 
 emerald robes sparkling with dew-drops, and gemmed with 
 flowers. 
 
 Our men had improved the time, and at sunrise we found 
 ourselves within six or eight miles of the outlet, moving 
 along half a mile distant from a low and densely wooded 
 53 
 
^^^^HHH^H99SH99^H999i 
 
 ■9999991 
 
 ■■ 
 
 ■ 
 
 418 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 shore. I thrust a pole over the side, and found that there 
 was less than a fathom of water, with a soft muddy bottom. 
 At various places I observed a slight bubbling on the surface 
 of the lake, and a strong smell of sulphurous or mephitic 
 gases; and in others rose little columns of vapor, indicating 
 the presence of hot springs at the bottom. 
 
 We finally reached what appeared to be a narrow estuary 
 of the lake, extending between two low bars, covered with 
 reeds, and literally alive with cranes and other water fowls. 
 The boat was directed into it, but it was so shallow that the 
 mud rose to the surface with every stroke of the oars. I 
 found, upon sounding, only two or three feet of water, with 
 about an equal depth of soft gray mud— the dwelling-place 
 of numerous alligators. We proceeded up this estuary for 
 three or four hundred yards, the water every moment becom- 
 ing shallower, until finally we stuck fast in the fetid mire. 
 The crew leaped overboard and sunk at once to their arm- 
 pits in the slime. They nevertheless pushed us some dis- 
 tance nearer the shore, and then, when the boat could be 
 moved no further, we mounted on their shoulders and were 
 carried to the land. We found the shore low, but gravelly, 
 and covered with grass and bushes. A clear little stream of 
 tepid water flowed at our feet, and at intervals all around us 
 rose columns of vapor from thermal springs. We advanced 
 a little farther to what appeared to be a bank, covered with 
 trees, and then discovered for the first time that the estero 
 ex tended down a broad and rocky but shallow channel, 
 which had anciently been the bed of the stream connecting 
 the two lakes. No water flowed through it now, although 
 there were pools here and there in the depressions of the 
 rock, supplied with water from springs, or from the rains. 
 Clumps of bushes were growing in the dry channel, and 
 amongst them cattle and mules were grazing. I can readily 
 believe that anciently, during the wet seasons, a small quan- 
 
• *&;& H 
 
SB 
 
'•".?' "*'sr"'^- f r?-'.f?w'" 
 
 VILLAGE OF TIPITAPA. 
 
 419 
 
 tity of water found its way through this channel, and over the 
 falls, a mile below ; but nothing is more evident than that no 
 considerable body of water ever flowed here. 
 
 But if we were disappointed in the so-called outlet of the 
 lake, our disappointment was more than compensated by the 
 magnificent view which was afforded, from this point, of the 
 great volcano of Momotombo, with its background of volcanic 
 peaks, constituting the chain of the Maribios, and terminating 
 with the tall Viejo, dim and blue in the distance. It seemed 
 to rise from the bosom of the mirror-like lake, a giant guide 
 to direct future navies across the continent from sea to sea. 
 I could not help picturing the black hulls of great steamers 
 trailing their smoky plumes at its base, and the white, cloud- 
 like sails of majestic Indiamen, relieved against the purple 
 of its arid sides. 
 
 After following along the bank of the vanished river for a 
 short distance, we came to a path, by which the Brazil wood 
 collected on the shores of the lake is carted to Pasquiel, the 
 first and nearest landing point on lake Nicaragua. A rapid 
 walk of a mile brought us to the village of Tipitapa, a mis- 
 erable little place, of some two or three hundred inhabitants, 
 with a tumble-down church or two, and a drove of cattle in 
 quiet possession of the plaza. We found our way, with little 
 trouble, to the house of the principal officer, — I have forgot- 
 ten his rank, — a disagreeable fellow, who made himself unne- 
 cessarily offensive by one or two cross-grained attempts at be- 
 ing civil. He hadn't the decency to offer us breakfast ; but 
 that gave us little concern, for Ben had come supplied for con- 
 tingencies, and had, moreover, a happy knack of pressing into 
 his service many utensils and other articles of use which might 
 come to hand. He despatched Victorino to the cura's for 
 some milk, and helped himself to plantains from the garden. 
 And after half an hour, which we had spent in drumming up 
 horses, he announced a breakfast, if not fit for a prince, at 
 any rate far from unacceptable to men who had started on 
 
—^^^^^^^^^^»1 ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ 1 1 
 
 420 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 an exploring expedition at two o'clock in the morning. 
 Through the aid of the cura, who was a fine looking man, 
 with rather a singular expression, nevertheless, for a padre, 
 we got horses for our ride to Pasquiel ; and the cura, accom- 
 panied by a young darkey who was qualifying himself for 
 the church, volunteered to accompany us. We had brought 
 no saddles, and were obliged to put up with " albardos" and 
 wooden stirrups. Albardos were not in existence in Job's 
 day ; had they been, he would have wished his enemy to ride 
 on an albardo, rather than write a book. A savage critique 
 in the Jerusalem Quarterly could not have " used up" Job's 
 enemies more effectually than an " albardo" and a hard trotter. 
 After riding for half a mile through deserted fields, now 
 overgrown with tall, rank weeds, we came once more to the 
 channel or river-bed, at a place called the JSalto or falls. Here 
 the rock, which appears to underlie the whole region, is en- 
 tirely exposed, worn into basins and fantastic pot-holes by 
 the water. It seems to be a calcareous or volcanic breccia, 
 and though not hard, is solid. Through this the hot springs 
 find their way to the surface. The Salto is a steep ledge 
 of this rock, from twelve to fifteen feet in height, extending 
 entirely across the ancient channel, which is here not less 
 than two hundred yards broad. Although it was now the 
 middle of the rainy season, not a drop of water flowed over 
 it. A little distance below the Salto is a stone bridge, the 
 second one which I had seen in the country, and the only 
 one in actual use. At the foot of its western buttress, upon 
 the lower side, I observed a column of vapor, and descend- 
 ing, found that it proceeded from a copious hot spring, from 
 which flows a considerable stream of scalding water. It has 
 formed a thick deposit upon the rocks and stones around it, 
 the apparent constituents of which were carbonate of lime, 
 sulphur, and sulphate of copper ; the taste of the water is not 
 unpleasant, and, as observed by Capt. Belcher, is esteemed a 
 sovereign remedy, " if taken by the advice of the padre I" 
 

 summ* 
 
 
 PRACTICAL COMMUNISM. 
 
 421 
 
 From the bridge we rode along the eastern bank of the 
 ancient channel, which below the falls becomes deeper and 
 narrower, filled with detached and water-worn rocks, with 
 here and there large pools of still water. We found the 
 country level, with a soil of exceeding fertility, and dotted 
 over with cattle estates. It is not densely wooded, but lias 
 many open glades, covered with grass, and affording rich 
 pasturage. Here Nicaragua wood, or Brazil wood, is found 
 in greatest abundance, and contributes materially to the value 
 of the land. It is a tree which seems to require a rich, 
 moist soil, and the absence of overshadowing trees of other 
 varieties. Quantities of the wood, already cut and prepared 
 for exj^ortation, were scattered here and there over the 
 savannahs. A ride of three miles brought us to the cattle 
 estate of Pasquiel, one of the largest and most valuable in 
 the country, belonging to our friend Don Frederico Derby- 
 shire, of Granada. We were well received by his superintend- 
 ent, who had seen us in Granada, upon our first arrival. The 
 buildings on the estate consisted of two immense roofs, 
 supported on posts, entirely open at the sides, and placed in 
 the centre of a kind of stockade of posts. In a corner of 
 one of these sheds, a number of poles set on end and withed 
 together, fenced off a little space for the beds of the mayor- 
 domo and his spouse. Ailing calves, independent pigs, and 
 multitudinous chickens shared the remainder of the accommo- 
 dations, on terms of perfect equality and harmony with the 
 children of the superintendent. Some large troughs, sup- 
 ported on posts, to receive the milk in manufacturing cheese, 
 and a couple of rude presses for use in the same manufac- 
 ture, also mounted on stilts, completed the furniture of the 
 establishment. There was enough of novelty in all this, but 
 nothing particularly attractive ; and as I suspected there 
 might be a "smart chance" of fleas in the sand under the 
 roofs, I declined dismounting, but rode beneath the shade of 
 a gigantic tree, called the mata-palo, or kill tree. It has 
 
EEH 
 
 422 
 
 NICARAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 great vigor, and preserves a dense green foliage during the 
 dry season, when most other trees become seared. It starts 
 as a kind of vine, and clasps itself around the first tree 
 which it can reach ; and as it grows with astonishing rapid- 
 ity, in a few years it entirely destroys the tree which 
 raised it from the ground, and occupies its place. It does 
 not run up to any considerable height, but extends its 
 branches laterally to a great distance, and like the banyan 
 tree, sends down new trunks to the ground, which in their 
 turn promote its vigor and its growth. These trunks come 
 down with their roots ready formed, and look like a number 
 of exceedingly bad brooms suspended from the principal 
 limbs. 
 
 From the houses of the estate to the landing of Pasquiel 
 there is a broad open road. The distance is little upwards 
 of a mile. This landing is at the head of an estuary running 
 up from the north-western extremity of Lake Nicaragua, in 
 the direction of Lake Managua, and which is about fourteen 
 miles in length. It is part of what is called the Bio Tipi- 
 tapa, but is, in fact, the Estero de Pasquiel, or de Panaloya. 
 The actual distance between the two lakes is therefore but 
 little over four miles. The landing of Pasquiel is simply an 
 open space on the bank of the Estero ; there was neither 
 house nor shed, nor sign of humanity, except several large 
 piles of Brazil wood, and the ashes left by the sailors' fires. 
 The Estero, at this point, is about one hundred yards broad, 
 and six feet deep. This is, in fact, about its average depth ; 
 although in some places lower down, I was informed by the 
 boatmen, it is as much as twelve and fourteen feet in depth. 
 
 There was very little to see; and so, after sitting on the 
 shore for an hour, we started on our return, following a path 
 which led along the bank of the Estero, with a view of deter- 
 mining how much higher it extended. We found that it 
 came to an end a short distance above the landing, as did 
 also our path. But we had started to go through, and per- 
 
^S'. *& : *!*3r&{SXlrfilfi$ffi 
 
 issmsftt 
 
 CONNECTION BETWEEN THE LAKES. 
 
 423 
 
 sisted in our purpose. Between cutting, and stooping, dis- 
 mounting and making a multitude of evolutions, we finally 
 succeeded in clearing the forest, well scratched and smarting 
 from rough contact with thorny bushes and prickly vines — 
 for nearly every petty bush and contemptible vine in Central 
 America is armed with thorns, great or small. 
 
 Stopping for a few moments at a cattle hacienda, where we 
 left the cura making love to the daughter of the mayor domo, 
 we returned to Tipitapa. Our gloomy host of the morning 
 had mustered up a little good humor. The secret of his 
 civility, however, came out before we left ; he wanted a 
 guitar, a guitar with four strings, a guitar withal worth seven 
 dollars ; and expected us to send him one of that description 
 from the United States, which we, of course, promised to do. 
 whereupon, in the fullness of his heart, he ordered his servant 
 to assist Ben in preparing dinner. 
 
 At three o'clock, we had reembarked, and w r ith a fair 
 wind, were soon speeding our way to Managua, where we 
 landed in the edge of the evening, well wearied with our 
 day's excursion. 
 
 In returning, I had sounded the lake, and found the entire 
 bay in front of Managua exceedingly shallow. For nearly 
 a mile out it was only about a fathom in depth ; and for full 
 two miles further it preserved a uniform depth of about two 
 fathoms. That part nearest the old outlet of Tipitapa was also 
 shallow, and for a mile and upwards from the shore, nowhere 
 exceeded a fathom and a half in depth. The middle portions 
 of the lake, however, are represented to be very deep. The 
 full statement of these facts and of a variety of others, bearing 
 upon the question of a canal route, are reserved for another 
 and more appropriate place, when I come to speak specifically 
 of the canal project. It is only necessary to add here, that 
 the grossest ignorance prevails as to the dependence between 
 the two lakes of Nicaragua and Managua, and the nature of 
 the communication one with the other. The publications of 
 
BIBS 
 
 
 424 
 
 NICAEAGUA — NARRATIVE. 
 
 the British Society for the Diffusion of Useful Knowledge 
 speak of Lake Nicaragua as flowing into Lake Managua ; 
 and nearly all geographical works refer to the river Tipitapa, 
 or Panaloya, as a considerable stream, navigable were it not 
 for the Salto or falls, which is almost uniformly represented 
 to be nearer Lake Nicaragua than to Lake Managua. There 
 is also an error prevalent amongst the natives of the country, 
 which has been inconsiderately adopted by some recent 
 observers, that the lake of Managua has formed a subterra- 
 nean outlet, or has subsided, from some unexplained cause, 
 within the past fifteen or twenty years. There is, however, 
 little or no reason for supposing that any material or percep- 
 tible change has taken place in the level of the lake, or any 
 diminution in its volume, since the period of the Conquest. 
 The early explorers represented the two lakes as entirely 
 disconnected; and Oviedo, although combatting this idea, 
 nevertheless describes the communication to be very nearly 
 what it now is. He says that in summer little water flows 
 through the channel, and speaks of the "canal," by which is 
 undoubtedly meant the Estcro of Panaloya, as only breast 
 deep. That the level of the lake changes somewhat with the 
 different seasons, I can myself bear witness. The evaporation 
 on the twelve hundred square miles of surface which this 
 lake presents, beneath a tropical sun, is nevertheless quite 
 sufficient to account for the absence of water at Tipitapa, 
 without entertaining the hypothesis of a subterranean outlet. 
 A few days after, I was suddenly called to return to Leon, 
 where I was detained by official business until the close of 
 November. The events which transpired in the interval do 
 not fall within the scope of my Narrative, and I shall conse- 
 quently pass them by without remark. 
 
 END OF VOLUME I, 
 
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