FRAHK^UIH INSTITUTE IlIE^A^Y PHILADELPHIA CLASsk)**X^ Boo ACCESSIO REFERENCE ^ ummi, ^ PRESENTED BY ^Jfo... 2,4 Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2015 https://archive.org/details/woolmanufacturesOOunit_0 / S 6 Ap '94 TREASURY DEPARTMENT. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. BY WORTHINGTON O. FORD, CHIEF OF THE BUREAU OF STATISTICS, TREASURY DEPARTMENT. WASHINGTON: GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. 1894. WOOL. Resolved by the House of Representatives {the Senate concurring), That there he printed a new edition of the special report of the Chief of the Bureau of Statistics of the Treasury Department relating to wool and the manufactures of wool, published by order of Congress in 1888, with the matter contained therein brought down to date, 3,000 copies for the use of the Senate, 6,000 for the use of the House of Representatives, and 2,000 for distribution by the Bureau of Statistics of the Treasury Department. (H. Mis. Doc. 94, Fifty-second Congress, second session.) Passed House February 28, 1893; Senate, March 3, 1893. • 2 TABLE OF CONTENTS. Page. Letter of transmittal 3 Introductory report 5 Increased production of wool 5 Internal movements, sheep industry, Victoria 7 Increased consumption of wool 8 Scope of this report 9 Woolen industry 11 Wool production of the world : 11 Sources of supply of wool 13 Depression of sheep interests 15 Domestic clip of wool 16 Distribution of sheep IS Weight, of fleeces 19 Commerce in wool 20 European imports of wool 22 Imports into the United States 23 Import prices of wool r 24 Conclusion 25 Acknowledgments 26 APPENDIX. SHEEP, WOOL CLIP, AND MANUFACTURES OF THE UNITED STATES. Number of sheep by States, 1840 to 1890 32 Production of wool, 1840-1890 33 Number of sheep, by States, 1875-1894 36 Wool clip of the United States, 1866-1887 42 increased per cent, periods of five years 43 1886 44 1887 45 1889 46 1890 ; 47 1891 -48 1892 49 1893 50 Price of imported wools, 1867-1893 51 Wool manufactures, establishments, and capital invested 52 Hands employed and wages paid 53 Cost of materials used 54 Value of product 55 Woolen manufactures, 1880 and 1890 56 Price of wools in New York, 1824 to 1893 59 Philadelphia, 1865 to 1894 61 Exports of domestic wools, sheep, and manufactures, 1821-1893 85 Tariffs on wool and manufactures of, 1789-1890 87 I II TABLE OF CONTENTS. Page. Wool and Woolens: Synopsis of Decisions of the Treasury Depart- ment CINDER THE TARIFF LAWS OF 1883 AND 1890 115 [reports of WOOL and Manufactures of, into the United States, 1821 to 1893 303 Imports of wools by countries, exports of foreign wools, and net imports of wools, 1822-1893 304 Net imports of wool manufactures, 1821-1893 319 Imports of wool by ideographical divisions, 1856-1 893 323 ' Imports and duties, 1821-1866 328 1867-1883 338 1884-1893 392 Imports of raw wools, into New York, Boston, and Philadelphia, by countries of production and immediate shipment, 1882-1893 133 Sheep and Lambs, World's Stock 467 Foreign Import Duties on Wool and Hair 473 Dominion of Canada: Number of sheep in 477 Exports of wool, imports of manufactures of 477 Imports of wool and manufactures, 1889-1893 478 Europe. Austria-Hungary : Imports of wool, 1892 506 Exports of wool, 1892 507 Imports and exports of wool and manufactures of, 1875-1891 509 Belgium: Imports and exports of wool, 1885 and 1891 509,510 Import value of wool, 1885 to 1891 511 Imports and exports of wool, 1892 512 Imports and exports of wool and manufactures of, 1874 to 1891 513 Denmark : Number of sheep in 513 Imports and exports of wool and manufacturers of, 1874 to 1891 514 France: Prices of foreign wools 514 Domestic clip 515 Prices of wool, 1861 to 1891 516 Tariff on wool 517 Imports and exports of wool and manufacturers of, 1861 to 1891 518 Imports of wools, by countries, 1883 to 1892 519 Exports of wool, by countries, 1883 to 1892 521 Exports of wool manufactures, by countries, 1883 to 1892 524 ( iERMANY : Imports and exports, 1892 532 Tariff on wool 532 Number of sheep in 533 Imports and exports of wool and manufactures of, 1875 to 1891 534 Italy: Imports of wool, 1892 535 Domestie clip, 1890 536 Tariff on wool 539 Imports of wool and manufactures 539 Netherlands: Imports of wool, 1888 to 1892 540 Exports of wool 543 Imports and exports of wool and manufactures of, 1866 to 1891 541 TABLE OF CONTENTS. Ill Norway : * p age. Number of sheep in 548 Imports of wool and manufactures of, 1874 to 1891 548 Portugal : Imports and exports of wool and manufactures of, 1874 to 1890 549 Russia: Production of wool 549 Tariff on wool 55o Carpet wools 550 Exports of wool, 1888 to 1892 553 Imports and exports of wool and manufactures of 556 Spain : Exports of wool to United Kingdom, 1831 to 1840 556 Exports of raw wool, 1880 and 1891 557 Imports and exports of wool and manufactures of, 1866 to 1891 .' 558 Number of sheep in 548 Imports of wool and manufactures of, 1873 to 1891 559 Switzerland. Imports and exports of wool and manufactures, 1885 to 1891 . . 559 United Kingdom. Number of sheep in and wool clips of, 1800 to 1882 560 Wool clip, 1893 561 The London wool market (Helmuth Schwartze & Co.) : January 11, 1887 562 January 11, 1888 563 January 10, 1889 564 January 9, 1890 566 January 8,1891 567 January 9,1892 569 January 9, 1893 570 January 9, 1894 572 Prices of wool, 1886 to 1893 574 Importations of colonial wool into Europe and America, 1860 to 1893 574 Import prices, 1878 to 1892 575 Export prices, 1878 to 1892 576 Prices of Lincoln wool, 1812 to 1893 577 Prices of Alpaca and mohair, 1856 to 1893 577 Imports of wool, 1844 to 1860 578 1861 to 1892 579 manufactures of, 1861 to 1892 581 by countries, 1888 to 1892 582 manufactures of, by countries, 1888 to 1892 586 Exports of wool and manufactures of, 1860 to 1892 590 by countries, 1888 to 1892 592 The East. China : Exports of wool 635 Imports of manufactures of 636 China wools 636 Japan : Imports of wool and manufactures of, 1868 to 1892 637 Turkey in Asia: Sheep and wool in 640 Exports of wool, 1891 and 1892 650 IV TABLE OF CONTENTS. Persia : Page. Exports of wool, 1891 and 1892. .". 650 Egypt : Number of sheep in 651 Imports and exports of wool and manufactures of, 1879 to 1891 651 Morocco 651 Regency of Tunis 652 British India 652 Ceylon 653 Natal 653 Cape of Good Hope 654 America. Mexico 657 Argentine Republic : Number of sheep in and wool clip of, 1857 to 1887 657 Exports of wool and sheepskins, 1866 to 1890 658 Wool industry 659 Wool clip compared with other countries 661 Value of annual yiekl, 1881 to 1890 662 Exports of wool 662 Uruguay : Exports of wool, 1890 and 1892 663 Peru : Exports of wool, 1892 664 Chile : Exports of wool, 1892 664 Brazil : Exports of wool, 1892 664 Jamaica: Imports of woolen manufactures, 1877 to 1891 664 Mauritius: Imports of woolen manufactures, 1877 to 1891 . . 664 Australasia. Victoria : Number of sheep in 666 Exports of wool, 1836 to 1890 667 Exports of wool by countries, 1888 to 1890 668 Imports and exports of wool and manufactures of 669 New South Wales : Number of sheep in 670 Imports and exports of wool, 1875 to 1892 672 Exports of wool by countries, 1889 to 1891 673 Exports of domestic wools, 1877 to 1891 673 Western Australia : Number of sheep in 674 Exports of wool 674 Queensland : Number of sheep in ! 675 Exports of wool , 676 South Australia : Imports and exports of wool, 1875 to 1892 677 Number of sheep in, 1873 to 1893 677 TABLE OF CONTENTS. V Tasmania : Page. Exports of wool, 1875 to 1892 ' 681 New Zealand : Exports of wool, 1875 to 1892 681 DIAGRAMS. Wool, raw, imported and exported into aud from j)rincipal countries during the year 1891 Frontispiece World's wool supply since 1860 11 World's production of wool 14 Number of sheep in United States by geographical divisions 1875-1894 18 1860, 1870, 1880, 1890, and 1893 32 Number of sheep in the United States, 1875 to 1892 36 Sheep in States aud Territories. 1875-1894 39 Wool clip of the United States, 1872 to 1893 42 Prices of wool in Philadelphia, 1865 to 1894 61 Value of raw wool and manufactures of, exported from the principal foreign countries 85 Consumption of wool in the United States, 1840 to 1893 87 Comparative quantities of wool manufactured, imported, and home grown, United States, England, France, and Germany 115 Imports of wool into the United States, 1822 to 1893 304 Value of raw wool and manufactures of, imported into the United States 319 Wool, imported for consumption and duties received 338 manufactures imported for consumption and duties received 392 Imports of raw wools, class 1, 1893 435 Imports of raw wools into the United States, class 3, 1893 446 Number of sheep and lambs in the principal wool-producing countries of the world 467 Austria-Hungary, imports and exports of wool 505 Belgium, imports and exports of wool 509 Denmark, imports and exports of wool 513 France, imports of raw wool into, 1892 517 . exports of raw wool from, 1892 521 Germany, imports and exports of wool , 531 Italy, imports of raw wool 535 Norway and Sweden, imports of raw wool 548 Portugal, imports and exports of raw wool 549 Russia, imports and exports of wool 553 Spain, imports and exports of raw wool* 556 United Kingdom, fluctuations in the value of colonial wools for twenty -five years 562 wool in, 1892 575 imports of raw wool, 1892 582 South Africa, exports of raw wool 654 Number of sheep in the United States, the United Kingdom, Australia, and South Africa 665 Australasia, exports of raw wool 670 LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL. Treasury Department, Bureau of Statistics, Washington, D. (7., February 12, 1894. Sir: In accordance with a joint resolution of Congress I have the honor to submit a report upon the production, commerce, and con- sumption of wools and manufactures of wools in the leading nations of the world. Naturally, the commercial features received the greater share of attention, and I have sought to obtain the latest returns having the weight of official authority. The tariff decisions alone constitute a valuable and necessary guide to understanding recent tariff legislation on wools and woolens, and its practical working; while the. elaborate tables of imports and exports, of domestic and foreign prices, covering a period of nearly thirty years, give as complete a representation of the world's experience in wool as may be drawn from purely statistical sources. In collecting and publishing such facts I believe the Govern- ment performs one of the highest of its legitimate functions, for it thus brings home to its citizens the importance of the industry, whether measured by its direct or its indirect results; the wide extension and influence of its many branches; and the relative importance, com- mercially and industrially, of the great nations of supply and con- sumption. In tracing the great changes in the course of production and trade of raw wools from one continent to another, from one country to another, and even from county to county, the pressure and limitations of competition, foreign and domestic, may be described, and proper measures taken to grant every advantage to the domestic sheep-raiser that can be given consistently with the claims and rights of the other interests of the community. It rests with the sheep farmers themselves rather than with the Gov- ernment to assert and maintain a preeminence in the local or foreign wool market. The improvement in breed, looking either to increasing the average yield of wool, or to the meat qualities of the animal, a question that must be decided by each locality and according to the profits to be obtained, has been very marked among the sheep-raisers of the United States. American wool of the finer grades deservedly has held and holds a high reputation, and this has resulted from the 3 4 LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL. intelligent and judicious methods of our sheep-raisers. It is only by- continuing such methods that they can hope to maintain this preemi- nence in quality, and no effort of Government can stave off or modify the effects of internal competition, — that is, the competition of one sec- tion of the country with other sections, — which is growing in intensity from year to year, and leading to a notable transfer of the wool-raising center, and to distinct changes in the general methods of sheep-raising. The best interests of the industry are not to be decided by confining the attention to domestic conditions. The same progress needed to sustain and advance the condition of the domestic sheep and wool inter- ests, will react upon the conditions in foreign markets, and in favor of the United States, whenever it sees fit to enter into a free competition. It is in the experience of the world that the best lessons are to be found, and from them are to be drawn the policy and measures that in the long run will best subserve the continued advancement and prosperity of the wool industries of the United States. Yours, respectfully, WORTHINGTON 0. FORD, Chief of Bureau. Hon. J. G. Carlisle, Secretary of the Treasury. INTRODUCTION. If there is any one fact demonstrated by the experience of the United States in the sheep industry it is the independence, in the long ran, of this interest of artificial encouragement. It has survived the restric- tions and prohibitions of the mother country in colonial times, the pen- alties and discouragements of hostile and interested legislation, as well as the progressive settlement of the country. It has followed economic law in spite of restrictions, bounties, and financial error, and is to-day still pursuing its natural course regardless of the comjjlaints of low prices, destructive foreign competition, and unprofitable returns. From the middle of the seventeenth century, when the general court of Massa- chusetts requested u those having friends in England desiring to come, would write them to bring as many sheep as convenient with them, which being carefully endeavoured, we leave the successe to God," to the last decade of the nineteenth century, the rise, development, and internal movement of sheep-raising and wool-manufacturing indus- tries have been logical in the great lines. Opinions may differ on the cause of an increase in a certain direction •; temporary advantage, as an embargo or war; the special favor of a tariff for protection or exclusion of competition, may have been more active at a certain period than an uninterrupted development on a normal basis; a locality naturally favored by geographical position or transportation facilities may have accentuated a prominence gained through invention or extensive employment of skilled labor and spe- cialties of make; yet it maybe asserted that the general trend of both industries would have been the same in the long run. The gradual removal of wool-raising as an industry to the west of the Mississippi, and still moving from the East to the West; and the establishment of manufactories in localities favored by natural and acquired advan tages — water power, labor, and accessibility — have been controlled by no legislative enactment, however much the movements may seem to have been influenced in any particular year or by an accidental junc- ture of circumstance. The increase in the production of wool has been enormous. In sup- port of this may be cited a paragraph from Messrs. George William Bond & Co.'s annual wool circular, dated January 26, 1894: We shall find that the woolen industries of the world, and of this country in par- ticular, have been marching forward and upward. In 1893 they are upon a plane so nmch higher than in 1860 that the products of the two periods cannot he considered 5 6 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. together. Therefore tariff legislation based on the conditions of that period are no longer applicable. On the other hand, the conditions of the wool supply have changed even more radically. Europe has yielded to the southern hemisphere the growth of fine wools. Russia alone shows an increase, whose product, like that of the countries east of her, is mostly of the carpet grade of wools, practically none of which are raised in this country. The European countries carry about the same number of mutton sheep as in 1860, notwithstanding the value of this wool product has been reduced one-half. In the United States the more recent increase in the sheep industry has been in the older Middle and Western States, and with mutton sheep. Careful husbandry is supplanting nomadic territory conditions, while the total American clip has increased three-fold in thirty years, the clip of Australia, under management most intelligent and scientific, has increased ten-fold. The ranch or estancia sheep husbandry of South America has increased nine fold in the same period, and that of the British possessions in South Africa five-fold. From without, this immense increase of clip in these purely agricultural countries has forced fine Ohio wool down to the prices of the last decade. No tariff duty has stayed or can stay this cause and effect. From within, the same influence has been exerted by the clips of the nomadic flocks west of the Mississippi, whose owners pay little or no rental upon the lands they occupy. California has not been able to hold her own against this competition, and her clip has gradually fallen from 56,550,- 000 pounds in 1876 to 33,000,000 to-day, about where it has stood for the last seven years. Although Australia is cited as the marked example of an overwhelm- ing increase in wool production — an increase so marked, as it is asserted, to have swamped the wool markets of the world and depressed wool prices in all woolgrowing countries — it is forgotten that there is continually acting in Australia the same influences leading to special and local decline and transfer of woolgrowing centers as in any other country. Australia no more shows a general or uniform advance than does any European country. The difference lies in this : That the elements contributing to an increased production have a wider field for play in Australia, or in any new country similarly situated, than in the older countries; that is to say, the capacity for growth is greater than factors of decline or decay. Taken as a whole, the wool product of Australia has increased ; taken in detail, we find the same periods of ebb and flow, the same rapid rise and often equally rapid decline in the sheep industry of a town, shire, or borough. With all its wonderful capacity for sheep growing, the opening of new districts, and the utilizing of possibilities in new counties, affect often disas- trously the actual sheep industries of the settlements older in point of time. The transfer of the sheep-growing industry from the Atlantic States to the States of the Mississippi Valley and from the Mississippi Valley into the Territories and newer States, finds its exact counterpart in similar transfer and movement in Australia. In proof of this I call attention to the statement printed in the Appendix showing the number of sheep in the shires of Victoria on the 31st of March, 1883, by the census of April 5, 1891. I selected such shires as in 1891 contain more than 100,000 sheep. The total number of sheep in cities, towns, and boroughs of Victoria in 1883 was 43,486 ; WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 7 in 1891, 64,817, an increase of 49 per cent. The number of sheep in the shires was, in 1883, 10,113,521; in 1891, 12,628,026; an increase of 24.8 per cent. When the figures of each shire are compared, some notable decline is found in spite of the increase in the aggregate. Kolac decreased from 414,046 to 258,481, Kowree from 412,177 to 348,286, Lex- ton from 125,647 to 120,115, Marong from 117,962 to 99,107, Swan Hill from 338,752 to 309,290, Wannon from 445,116 to 423,385, and Wimmera from 252,534 to 171,693. The presumption is that in all the districts showing decline there was some element actively at work incapable of meeting the competition of newer districts — districts like Dunmunkle, which increased from 93,632 to 218,334 ; Korong, from 124,654 to 239,330 ; Mount Eouse, from 265,565 to 361,236, and Eosedale, from 11,018 to 157,948. In order to emphasize this natural adaptation of a sheep-growing industry in Victoria to the conditions or economy most favorable to its development, Lgive in this place some of the more notable differences shown by the census of 1891 over the census of 1881. Counties. Anglesey Bendigo Borung Bourke Delatite Dundas Evelyn Gladstone Grant Grenville Gunbower . Hampden Kara Kara... Lowan Moira.' Normanby . . . Polwarth Ripon Talbot Tanjil Tatcliera Villiers Wonnangatta 1881 1891 255, 387 414, 494 295, 159 414, 501 593, 262 847, 206 353, 543 360, 547 275, 141 383, 004 978, 515 997, 725 24, 671 22, 867 256, 851 415, 474 497, 905 512, 538 648, 836 570, 850 171,830 152, 220 874, 619 953, 079 318, 358 505, 105 714, 268 637, 294 247, 750 362, 620 604, 318 650, 884 194, 824 177, 745 663, 771 706, 952 281, 950 291, 205 90, 462 280, 746 135, 049 253, 612 786, 392 912, 920 5, 315 59, 136 Such comparisons speak for themselves and require no comment. The same internal movement can be established for New South Wales, at present the sheep growing country of the world. If we look at the number of sheep in New South Wales by geographical divisions, we find the largest numbers of sheep in the western plains and on the west- ern slopes of the east central and southern divisions. In 1892 these figures stood as follows: Western Plains, which include Balranald, 8 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Wentworth, Wilcaimia, Bourke, and Sturt, 15,379,178; the western slope of the southern division, which includes Hume, Albury, Murray, and Murrumbidgee, contained 10,593,813 sheep ; the western slope of the east central division, which includes the Bogan, Forbes, and Gren- fell, contained 10,039,701 sheep. As compared with the returns of 1886, these figures represented an increase for the Western Plains of 48-3; for the western slope of the southern division of 46-2, and for the western slope of the east central division of 106-3 per cent. In the few districts included in these geographical subdivisions is to be found nearly 66 per cent of the entire increase of sheep in the colony.* Yet marvellous as has been the rapid rise of the sheep industry of New South Wales, there was experienced a severe set back in 1892. INCREASE OF CONSUMPTION. Articles of food and cotton -excepted, wool deserves to rank first among the articles of " prime necessity" and of commercial interest. Not only is there an almost infinite number of conditions favorable to woolgrowing, resulting in a great variety of products, — each u fleece" even containing many differing qualities, each quality specially adapted for a single use, — but the commercial and industrial aspects are quite as noticeable by their variety and importance. Take the returns of imports into the United States of raw wools, and it is seen the quantity has increased, since 1884 from 78,350,651 pounds to 175,636,041 pounds in 1893, an increase of 124.1 per cent. This increase is all the more notable as occurring in the face of legislation designedly hostile to imports of foreign wools, legislation which increased the average cus- toms duties on these wools from 33.27 per cent in 1884, to 44.72 per cent in 1893. It occurred also when 3 whatever decrease in domestic produc- tion had been noted in intervening years, has been nearly made good in the last year for which returns are available — 1892. In 1884 the wool clip from domestic animals was estimated by Mr. James Lynch to have been 337,500,000 pounds; in 1892, another authority using the methods placed it at 364,152,666 pounds. In 1884 the population of the country was 54,911,000; and in 1892, 65,403,000 — estimates based uj^on actuarial averages. An increase of nearly 20 percent in population has been accompanied by an increase of nearly 30 per cent in wool consump- tion — a comparison that speaks for itself. *See appendix for details. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 9 The relation of production to wool consumption in the United States since 1860 may be further illustrated by the following comparisons: Quantities of Wool Produced and Consumed, by Decades, from 1880 to 1890, and from 1890 to 1892 — Per Cent of Increase*. Years. 1860 1870 Increase Per cent 1880 Increase Per cent 1890 Increase Per cent 1892 Increase Per cent Increase from 1860 to 1892 Per cent Production. Con sump- tion. Pounds. £\l\ Od 4 mo OU, ^04, y Lo 162, 000, 000 101, 735, 087 1GS-81 Pounds. ©5, 3.M, o7o 209, 367, 254 124, 032, 378 145-35 232, 500, 000 70, 500, 000 43-52 356, 7 91, 676 147, 424, 422 70-41 276, 0C0, 000 43, 500, 000 18-71 377,911,776 21, 120, 100 5-92 294,000,000 439,460,633 18, 000, 000 1 61, 548, 857 6*52 ! 16-29 233, 735, 087 387*84 354, 125, 757 414-98 If the commercial statistics of other countries be examined, even more striking evidences of the progress of this industry are to be found. In 1892, as in 1884, the United Kingdom occupied a dominant position in the commercial activity in wool. In 1884 the quantity of wool (sheep, lamb, alpaca and the llama tribe) imported was 526,526,661 pounds, of -which 249,607,588 pounds were exported; in 1892 the imports were 743,046,104 pounds and the exports 430,105,121 pounds. There has been no decrease in late years in the English wool clip to account for such figures ; in fact, there has been an increased clip coupled with a decrease in the number of sheep. In 1891 the number of sheep and lambs in Great Britain was returned at 28,732,558; and in 1893 at 27,280,334. The wool clip in 1890 was placed at 138,000,000 pounds, and in 1892 at 153,000,000 pounds. This points to a profitable attempt to improve the breed of animals, and the weight and quality of the fleece — profitable, because it has been accomplished in the face of com- petition with the wool-raisers of the world, and under conditions that are accepted and urged by many of the woolgrowers of the United States as distinctly and fatally disadvantageous. SCOPE OF THIS REPORT. There are so many points of interest arising out of such an industry — from the sheep farm to the marketing of the manufactured product — that I intend to restrict the extent of this report to the commercial fea- tures. Nearly the entire wool product of commercial and industrial coun- 10 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. -tries may be said to coine into the markets first or last. It is not con- sumed on the farm in any appreciable quantities; its use in household industries is confined to a few countries where the development of a woolen industry is in an embryonic condition, and where statistics of' production are still so imperfect as to make even an estimate next to impossible. It is a merchantable commodity the world over, and in spite of an enormous increase in production and facilities for marketing, the demand has kept pace with the supply, and for no long period has there been a congested condition of the general markets when stocks have proved unsalable and steadily increased to swamp the sale. I repeat, first or last, the great bulk of wool grown enters the markets, either in a raw or manufactured condition, and is thus made a matter of record and statistical inquiry. It is, therefore, the commercial aspects 1 shall examine most critically, the imports and exports of wool and its manufactures, and the sources of supply and direction of com- merce. To show as fully as may be the tendency of this increasingly impor- tant commerce, the inquiry is made to extend over a period of ten or more years, by which the rise or fall of sources of supply and demand may be better understood and a change from an indirect to a direct trade noted. This inquiry must touch upon the sheep-raising industry in each of the leading woolgrowing countries, but it is not pretended that the conditions applying to sheep-raising are treated exhaustively or that a definite comparison of advantages or disadvantages is insti- tuted. Such a comparison is out of the question. In one country sheep-raising may be a secondary occupation, merely subsidiary to other agricultural employment. The question of profit may be bal- anced between meat and wool, or it may not enter into the operations of the year in any immediate form. In another, sheep-raising may be a dominant industry and wool the only product sought. To undertake a comparison between such extremes would be like comparing the product of a pair of knitting needles with that of a power loom or knit- ting frame. At the other extreme, I shall not undertake to pass upon the woolen industry. Each country engaged in manufacturing woolens has its special product, the result (it may be) of local conditions, a par- ticular sort of wool fiber, an inherited skill in handling, a trained sense of color and combination of colors, and a hundred other such matters on which there can be no general conclusions. A natural advantage, like climate, is as powerful a factor in determining the situs of the indus- try as an artificial or acquired advantage, like reputation, good will, or trained skill. So, also, each market demands its specialities, and fash- ion and taste dictate what shall be the product and whence it shall be obtained. The question of relative wages earned in the different countries offers insuperable difficulties. Hardly two mills in the same country are situ- ated in precisely the same conditions or circumstances, and in different kl ki Cn o IN5 Co Co c* Ob CS Oi Cn I Q C I 1860 1870 1880 1889 1801 1860 1870 1880 188$ 1891 1860 1870 1880 1889 1891 1860 1870 1880 1889 1891 1860 1870 1880 1889 1891 1860 1870 1880 1889 1891 1860 1870 1880 1889 1891 CO CO CO CO CO CO Co CO VI aa co o o o * 8 8 . 8 § 3 io - - - ? •fs» CO Q> to £ cn oi N) co oi a pj p pi oi oi 5j» "si O O O O ■ ^40 0 0 0 Co p p p p o o o o o o o © o o o o © © © t5 IN5 C* Co Co 0, 9 9 Oi O q CO O O "0 -< CO :> O O TO o o WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 11 countries so many other varying distinctions escaping exact measure- ment enter into the problem, as to clefy scientific analysis and compari- son. Even when gauged by results — the product in yards for each worker — many exceptions or modifying statements must be made. Such are the difficulties in gauging the wages received by the output or capacity of the worker, in gauging the industrial activity and reward of the wage receiver, as to render a general comparison between a laborer in Italy, for example, with what purports to be a laborer in the same relative employment in England or the United States, outside of economic possibility. Such a comparison would be mere guesswork. The problem is further complicated by the question of real wages and nominal or money wages. The cost of living must be decided before the actual compensation of the workingman can be known, and in this there is quite as wide a field for differing conditions as in the earning of the wages. After a most exhaustive examination, Mr. Carroll D. Wright, U. S. Commissioner of Labor, could show that the difference (averaged) in earnings and expenditure between a family in Europe and one in the United States was barely 3*2 per cent. The American can save 11-6 per cent and the foreigner 8'4 per cent of his income. I quote the conclusion of Mr. Wright in full: Table xxiv, with subtables from A to H, inclusive, gives a recapitulation of cost of living by states, both American and European, for the woolen industry, in the same way that has just been recited for the cotton industry. The general conclu- sive features only will be stated. The income per family from all sources in the woolen industry, 911 families in America being considered, was $663.13, while in Europe, for 334 families, it was $449.58. The total expenditures for all purposes for the American families was $594.09, and for the European families $414.73. Five hun- dred and eighty-three American families had saved during the year, on an average, $136.16, while 268 families experienced a deficit of $61.49 each on the average. Two hundred and nineteen of the European families saved $67.67 each, and 72 showed a deficit of $44.16. WOOL PRODUCTION. If we examine the official returns of the number of sheep and lambs in European countries, the fact is developed that in no instance has there been an increase since 1875. Such a general decrease occurring under so many different conditions, points to a general cause, working as well in spite of legislative attempts to foster the industry of wool- growing as in the face of a perfect freedom from any such attempts. This cause is one that is readily recognized as economic, and in conse- quence not to be stayed by artificial conditions save at such a cost as to imperil the existence in these countries of the important wool manu- facturing interests, and in many instances a valuable export trade dependent upon a full and free market for the raw materials used in this manufacture. The question of sheep raising is decided as any other agricultural operation is determined — by the profit to be gained, and under modern conditions the farmer who has a small flock of sheep and regards them as a subsidiary contribution to his farming operations, 12 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. can not compete with the man who has large flocks, practically unlimited- grazing ground, and no other interests to interfere with his attention to his sheep. Woolgrowing, as a great industry is of very ancient date ; but it is an industry suited to certain stages of economic development of a country, and is rendered unprofitable where land is in demand for intensive culture, where population is comparatively dense, and where, in short, the pastoral has not given place to the industrial stage. In support of this proposition the statistics of individual countries are full and almost unanimous — the exceptions being due to some local advantage or artificial stimulus. I would also quote from a report made to the Department of State in February, 1892, by United States Consul-General Bourn, based upon a publication^ the Italian Govern- ment prepared and printed under the direction of Luigi Bodio : With an increased density of population in Europe there has been a gradual decrease in the number of sheep, as lands formerly used for pasturage were con- verted into tillage lands to meet the increased demand for food. From 1860 to 1890 the population of Europe increased from 286,000,000 to 356,000,000, an increase of 70,000,000, or about 25 per cent, necessitating a tillage of at least 25 per cent more land to supply food for this increase. During this period the number of sheep in Europe decreased from 229,600,000 in 1860 to 192,240,000 in 1890, a decrease of 37,000,000, or about 16 per cent, while the number in the chief extra-European wool producing and exporting countries increased from 63,200,000 in 1860 to 264,500,000 at the date of the latest estimates. But Europe in 1890 consumed fully 66 per cent more wool than in 1860, while there were 16 per cent less sheep to supply the require- ment. .It is easy, therefore, to see why new fields have been sought in other con- tinents for the deficiencies both in food and clothing. In 1860 there were not to exceed 40,200,000 sheep in the La Plata country, Aus- tralia, and South Africa, or scarcely 18 per cent of the number in Europe. In 1890 this amount had increased to 221,500,000, or about the number in Europe in 1860. There were 8,806,500 sheep in Italy in 1860, but in 1875 there were only 6,977,000. The number then grew again to 8,596,000 in 1881, to be again reduced to 6,900,000 in 1890, a decrease of 21 per cent since 1860, as compared with 16 per cent decrease for all Europe. In the United States the process has been substantially the same. The increasing density of population in the East has gradually driven the flocks west- ward into newer territory, where they have largely increased, though not so rap- idly as in the La Plata country, Australia, and South Africa. From 23,000,000 in 1860 they increased to 41,000,000 in 1870. At this time the market for wool was so depressed that the farmers found it profitable to kill upwards of 9,000,000, thus reducing the amount to 31,000,000. Since then the gradual increase brought the number to above 50,000,000 in 1884, to be again reduced by the competition of Aus- tralian wool to about 43,000,000 on January 1, 1891. This variation in the number of sheep has, however, its compensation in the greatly increased production per head. The yield in 1871 was about 5 pounds for each sheep, while in 1884 and 1891 it was, respectively, about 6 and 7 pounds.* The centers of wool production have, therefore, gradually shifted. Prior to 1818 Spain was the principal source of supply of merino wools, a position held by that country for centuries, the sheep being descended from the stock brought to the peninsula by the Komans. England * In the appended tables will be found two estimates of the number of sheep in the leading nations of the world. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 13 obtained the foreign raw material for her woolen manufactures from Spain. In 1802, of a total import of 8,600,000 pounds, 6,000,000 pounds were obtained from Spain. In 1800 the domestic wool clip of England was estimated at 96,000,000 pounds. Early in the nineteenth century the Spanish influence began to decline, supplanted by the Saxony and Silesian wool, also a product of the merino stock. Later, about 1840, the merinos of Australasia began to supersede the German wools in the European market 5 and to-day it is the Australasian continent that raises the largest quantity of wools. This shifting of the principal source of the supply for raw wool may be seen by an examination of the returns of wool imported into the United Kingdom since 1844, as given in a table in the appendix. It becomes clearer when the per cent of these total imports contributed by different countries at different periods are compared. The decline of Germany and South America in the English wool imports is notable when placed side by side to the increase of Australasia and the British possessions in South Africa. 1844 1850 1860 1870 1880 1890 Per cent. Per cent. Per eent Per cent. Per cent. Per cent. 26 '8 52-5 39 -9 66 -5 64 -9 66 -2 33-2 12 -3 12 -4 1-7 1-5 11 South America 5 7 7-1 6 4-8 2-2 1-8 British Possessions: South Africa 3-3 7-7 U-2 12 5 11 1 13-8 4 2 4-7 13 6 4 2 6-3 5.4 A similar conrparison for the sources of wool imported into the United States is as follows : Per Cent of Total Imports of Eaw Wool into the United States from the Countries and during the Years Mentioned. Countries. 1825 1830 1840 1850 1860 1870 1880 1890 Per ct. Per . Per ct. Per ct Per ct. Per ct. Per ct. Per ct. All Europe 87-2 75 63 -4 34 26-2 32 -7 62-2 65 -8 United Kingdom 19 -9 17 6 1-8 10 -4 12 16 5 45-3 44 2 Russia •2 1-1 9-2 2 6 13 5 France 2 1.2 5-5 6-7 •4 9-9 6-2 Austria •2 •2 •3 •7 •04 •4 •01 •4 2-6 •2 2-6 4 5 5-1 3-2 11 All South America 10-4 22-1 20 -5 63 34 49.2 20 -5 15 5 5 7 17 -1 5-7 54 4 24 34 9 6 12-9 Brazil •5 •7 31 2 1 6 6 •7 •2 Chile 3 4 5-5 6-9 4 3 2-6 2-2 •8 •2 10 -3 •4 1-2 14 9 3 •04 •3 6 1:3 •1 8 5 01 24-5 10 -3 5 7 l 14 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. In 1887 the Statistical Institute of Amsterdam* prepared an esti- mate of the world's production of wool. This estimate, reduced to pounds, gave a total of 2,060,493,800 pounds, distributed as follows: Pounds. Australasia (1889) 535, 436, 000 Russia (1878) 390, 548, 800 Argentine Republic (1882) 244, 666, 040 United States (1882) 233, 073, 000 United Kingdom (1882) 127, 942, 200 France (1879) 90, 319, 920 Spain (1878) 66, 120, 000 Germany (1881) 54, 879, 600 Cape Colony (1881) 42, 427, 000 Uruguay (1880) 41, 369, 080 Hungary (1880) 35, 682, 760 British India (1881-'82) 21, 400, 840 Italy (1874) 21, 378, 800 Asiatic Turkey and Persia 13, 224, 000 Natal (1881) 12,496,680 Austria (1881) 10, 909, 800 Portugal 10,358,800 Belgium (1865) , . . . 4, 408, 000 British North America (1881) 3, 570, 480 Sweden (1870) 3, 306, 000 Other countries 96, 976, 000 Total 1 2,060,493,800 In the same year (1887) was published another estimate by the emi- nent statistician, Dr. F. X. von Neumann- Spallart, which did not differ greatly in the aggregate from the result obtained by the Amsterdam Statistical Institute, though the details in many cases show radical and irreconcilable discrepancies. Countries of production. Europe: 'Russia (1884) Great Britain and Ireland (a) (1885) . France (1882) Spain (b) (1878) Germany (c) (1881) Hungary (d) (1885) Italy (1874) Austria (1883) Portugal (?) Belgium (?) Sweden (1884) All other Europe Total Europe . Quantities produced. Pounds. 262, 966, 000 135, 936, 000 80, 138, 000 66, 138, 000 54, 894, 000 43, 146, 000 21, 385, 000 11, 155, 000 10, 362, 000 4, 409, 000 3, 307, 000 8, 818, 000 702, 654, 000 a Estimate by the "Bradford Observer." b An estimate of 3*9 pounds of wool per head of 17,000,000 sheep. e Estimated from the export accounts. d Estimate of 3*9 pounds of wool per head on the whole number of sheep in Hungary, Croatia, and Slavonia. *See Bijdragen van het Statistich Instituut, Amsterdam, 1887, p.* 19, there given in kilograms, and reduced to pounds in Hayters Victorian Handbook, 1890-91, WORLD'S PRODUCTION OF WOOL. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OP WOOL. 15 Countries of production. ■ Quantities produced. North America : Pounds. United States (1884) 307, 588, 000 British North American provinces (1884) 4, 409, 000 South America: Argentine Republic (exports 1885) 283, 047, 000 59, 084, 000 Asia and Australasia : 455, 470, 000 British East Indies (exports 1885-'86) 23, 126, 000 Turkey, Asiatic, and Persia (estimated) 13, 228, 000 Africa : 29, 299, 000 Natal (exports 1885) 17, 306, 000 88, 185, 000 1,983,396, 000 a From tke estimates of " Export," 1886. b Estimate by Jacoms, Son & Co. Includes wools from Brazil, Chile, Algiers, Egypt, Tunis, etc. c Only a few countries have attempted to collect statistics of the actual production of raw (unwashed) wool. The usual method of arriving at the annual production is a A r aluation based on the average yield of wool per head of the whole number of sheep in the country. This table must, therefore, be regarded as a" general view " and does not claim to be accurate as to the several amounts of wool produced. The following table, showing the estimated wool supply of the world since 1860, put forth by the London Board of Trade, is not without interest in this connection: Sources of supply. 1860 1870 1880 1889 Pounds. Pounds. Pounds. Pounds. United Kingdom 140, 000, 000 150, 000, 000 149, 000, 000 134, 000, 000 Continent of Europe 500, 000, 000 485, 000, 000 450, 000, 000 450, 000, 000 110, 000, 000 176, 000, 000 270, 000, 000 330, 000, 000 Australasia 60, 000, 000 175, 000, 000 308, 000, 000 450, 000, 000 Cape of Good Hope 26, 000, 000 43, 000, 000 60, 000, 000 70, 000, 000 43, 000, 000 197, 000, 000 256, 000, 000 360, 000, 000 Other countries 76, 000, 000 69, 000, 000 133, 000, 000 156, 000, 000 955, 000, 000 1, 295, 000, 00C 1, 626, 000, 000 1, 950, 000, 000 DEPRESSION OF SHEEP-RAISING INTERESTS. That the sheep-raising interests of the world are passing through a period of depression is not to be denied. The low prices of wools have reacted upon the production by reducing profits derived from wools and diminishing the temptation to extend the production. Was this depression local, local remedies would apply ; but it is general, and affects those countries where the advantages for sheep raising excel as well as those where woolgrowing is a secondary matter and a by- product rather than an industry. In 1880 the number of sheep in the United States was 35,192,094 ; in 1890 it was 35,935,364, an increase of only 2 per cent. These are census figures. The Department of 16 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Agriculture estimated the number of sheep in 1890 at 44,336,072, and in 1893 at 47,273,553, an increase of 6-6 per cent. Compare these per- centages with the increase of sheep in what is the great sheep country of the world— ^ew South Wales. From 1880 to 1890 the number of head increased from 35,398,121 to 55,986,431, or 584 per cent. • Certainly the mere mention of such figures is sufficient to demon- strate the preeminent advantage in sheep raising possessed by such a country over all rivals; yet the record is not entirely one of progress. In 1891 the number of head of sheep had risen to 61,831,416, and in 1892 had fallen to 55,445,289, or lower than it was in 1890. Nor is this economic evidence of depression confined to New South Wales. In 1890 Victoria contained 12,692,843 sheep, and in 1891, 12,928,148, an increase of 1-7 per cent. From 1891 to 1892 the increase was merely nominal, only 37,158 head. South Australia returned 7,050,544 sheep in 1890; 7,745,541 in 1891; and 7,152,047 in 1892. In the two years the number of sheep has hardly increased. Western Australia has suffered even more heavily. In 1890 the highest number was reached, 2,524,913 head. In 1892 it had fallen to 1,685,500 head, a decrease of one-third. Nor is the result different when the quantity of wool exported from these countries is taken as a basis for estimate, instead of the number of sheep. In 1891 the exports of wool from New South Wales reached its maximum, 340,691,382 pounds, a quantity 37,000,000 pounds larger than the total clip of the United States. In 1892 the exports fell to 323,052,014 pounds, or about 10,000,000 pounds less than the wool clip of the United States in that year. The exports of wool from Victoria slightly increased, from 164,805,907 pounds in 1891 to 165,590,377 pounds in 1892. South Australia sold in the markets of the world 66,977,214 pounds in 1891, and 63,868,922 pounds in 1892. Tasmania also gives its evidence on the point under discussion, exporting 9,378,173 pounds in 1891, and 8,437,931 pounds in 1892. New Zealand increased its exports by 12,000,000 pounds, Queensland by 15,000,000 pounds, and India by 1,400,000 pounds. Against these may be placed a decrease in the exports from the Cape of Good Hope, 5,200,000 pounds, and from Natal more than 6,000,000 pounds. No better proof could be adduced of the general depression affecting sheep raising as an indus- try the world over. It should further be considered that these figures are based upon the returns for 1892 and do not show the still greater narrowing of demand and markets that the progress of the depression developed in 1893. In the light of such comparison the returns of the sheep and wool product in the United States mark a relative prosperity. DOMESTIC CLIP OF WOOL. The production of wools in the United States for each year since 1872 has been estimated by methods which commend themselves to scientific criticism. The figures in the following table from 1872 to 1888 were compiled by Mr. James Lynch, of New York; those for 1889 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 17 and 1890 are by Mr. Joseph P. Truitt, of Philadelphia. The returns for 1891 and 1892 were prepared by Mr. S. D. North, while the fig- ures of the last two years are compiled from official returns on the same bases as were employed in the estimates of the previous years. The table as it stands (the line of increase per cent excepted) was taken from the annual circular of George William Bond & Co., of Boston. In the appendix to this report will be found Mr. Lynch's figures more in detail and with different combinations, as submitted from time to time in tariff hearings before Congress. Mr. Truitt's and Mr. North's estimates will be found in full as far as can be supplied. Years. .Fleece, tub, and pulled. California, Oregon, etc. Texas. Territory. Southern and South- western. Total product. Pounds. Pounds. Pounds. Pounds. Pounds. Pounds. .120. 000, 000 24, 000, 000 9, 000, 000 3, 000, 000 4, 000, COO 160, 000, 000 1873 125, 000, 000 33, 200, 000 9, 000, 000 4, 000, 000 3, 500, 000 174, 700, 000 1874 120, 000, 000 39, 500, 000 10, 000, 000 5, 000, 000 3, 500, 000 178, 000, 000 1875 125, 000, 000 46, 000, 000 12, 000, 000 6, 000, 000 4, 000, 000 193, 000, 000 1876 112, 500, 000 61, 250, 000 13, 000, 000 6, 500, 000 5, 000, 000 198, 250, 000 1877 120, 000, 000 59, 250, 000 14, 000, 000 8, 000, 000 7, 000, 000 208, 250, 000 1878 125, 000, 000 49, 000, 000 17, 000, 000 12, 000, 000 8, 000, 000 211, 000, 000 133, 000, 000 54, 000, 000 16, 000, 000 20, 000, 000 9, 500, 000 232, 500, 000 1880 148, 000, 000 53, 000, 000 22, 000, 000 30, 000, 000 11, 000, 000 264, 000, 000 1881 164, 600, 000 50, 000, 000 26, 000, 000 37, 200, 000 12, 200, 000 290, 000, 000 1882 166, 550, 000 47, 000, 000 31, 000, 000 43, 150, 000 12, 300, 000 300, 000, 000 1883 177, 500, 000 50, 900, 000 31, 000, 000 48, 500, 000 12, 500, 000 320, 400, 000 1884 180, 000, 000 49, 500, 000 35, 000, 000 58, 000, 000 15, 000, 000 337, 500, 000 1885 165, 000, 000 47, 600, 000 31, 000, 000 70, 000, 000 16, 000, 000 329, 600, 000 1886 160, 000, 000 54, 805, 000 26, 000, 000 65, 000, 000 16, 000, 000 322, 305, 000 1887 162, 500, 000 56, 000, 000 25, 000, 000 73, 000, 000 17, 000, 000 333, 500, 000 1888 156, 100, 000 50, 900, 000 25, 900, 000 75, 200, 000 14, 200, 000 322, 300, 000 1889....' 117, 512, 634 59, 493, 416 12, 429, 838 76, 968, 368 9; 375, 223 295, 779, 479 1890 115, 959, 226 59, 468, 170 32, 835, 991 92, 163, 118 9, 148, 381 3C9, 474, 856 1891 114, 658, 090 51, 665, 541 34, 618, 514 93, 607, 664 8, 852, 098 303, 401, 507 1892 146, 185, 147 48, 387, 254 35, 281, 225 83, 381, 231 19, 783, 548 333, 018, 405 1893 184, 970, 150 56, 898, 508 26, 007, 806 72, 734, 273 23, 541, 929 364, 152, 666 Increase, per cent j 54 1 137 188-9 2, 324 -4 488 -5 127 -5 If we examine the diagram based upon this table we notice an unex- pected difference in the development of the wool clip in different parts of the country. In 1872 what is described as u fleece, tub, and pulled wool," which answers to the division in Mr. Lynch's table, u Iowa, Mis- souri, Minnesota, and States east of the Mississippi, except lower southern," constituted 75 per cent of the total wool clip of the country. In 1893 it constituted only 50-8 per cent of the total clip. Yet the returns of that particular description of wool in 1893 was greater than in any previous year of record. In the twenty- two years covered by the estimates the fluctuations have been wide, reaching minimum limits in 1876 and in 1891, and maximum points in 1884 and 1893. The decline in 1876 was the effect of the commercial and financial depression which followed the crisis of 1873. The cause of the decline that followed H. Mis. 94 2 18 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 1884 was undoubtedly domestic competition from other sheep-growing regions of the country. No general conclusion, based upon the prob- able effect of tariff legislation, will apply with equal force to the pro- duction of wool geographically considered. The marked decline in " fleece, tub, and pulled wool" from 1884 to 1891 was nearly compen- sated by the increase in the clip from other regions. If, therefore, there was a generally adverse condition, applicable to the growth of wool in this country, it should have acted in as marked a manner upon all and every description of wool, and not have been confined as it were to locality or to special grades. The conclusion is inevitable that what depressed the wool clip in the fleece, tub, and pulled region was generally favorable to the wool grown in the Territories. The conclu- sion is emphasized by this apparent course of the clips since 1891 : while fleece, tub, and pulled wool has taken a new start, Territory and Texas wool have declined. This question of geographical distribution of sheep and product may be studied a little more in detail. From Dr. Salmon's History and Present Condition of the Sheep Industry of the United States I take a comparison which shows in parallel columns the sheep and wool indus- tries of the States east and of those west of the Mississippi and the different course in each division : Tears. East of Mississippi. West of Mississippi. Sheep. Wool clip. Sheep. Wool clip. Number. Pounds. Number. ■ Pounds. 1840 18, 807, 779 35,102, 584 503, 595 699, 530 1850 20, 095, 661 50, 014, 074 1,627,559 2, 502, 885 1860 18, 052, 224 51, 791, 194 4, 419, 051 8,473,719 .1870 21, 058, 684 77, 364, 569 7, 419, 267 22, 737, 818 1880 20, 375, 894 95, 977, 649 14,816,180 59, 704, 102 16, 988, 441 85, 605, 617 27, 347, 631 190, 394, 383 Thus, in 1840, the States east of the Mississippi held 97-4 per cent of the total number of sheep. In 1890 they contained only 38-3 per cent. In 1840 these States grew 98 per cent of the wool clip. In 1890 they grew only 31 per cent. The variations in the interim will be shown by the following table: Percentage of Sheep and of Wool Clip, and also the Average Yield of Wool per Sheep, East and West of the Mississippi, in the given Years. Years. East of Mississippi. West of Mississippi. Sheep. Wool. Yield per sheep. Sheep. Wool. Yield per sheep. Per cent. Per cent. Pounds. Per cent. Per cent. Pounds. 1840 97 -39 98 -01 1-866 2-61 1-99 1-389 1850 92 -51 95 -23 2-489 7-49 4-77 1-537 1860 80-33 85 -94 2-869 19 -67 14-06 1-918 1870 73 -95 77 -29 3-674 26-05 22 71 3-067 1880..." 57 -90 61 -65 4 -710 42 -10 38 -35 4-030 1890 38 -32 31 -02 5 -039 61 68 68 '98 6-962 NUMBER OF SHEEP IN THE UNITED STATES, 1875-1894. BY GEOGRAPHICAL DIVISIONS. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 19 This comparison is deceptive if we accept it as it stands. The large number of sheep in the East raised for mutton only reduces the aver- age fleece per sheep. In summarizing* the sheep industry east of the Mississippi, Mr. Ezra A. Carman wrote, in 1892: Up to within a comparatively recent day the principal aim of sheep husbandry in the section considered was the growth of wool. Mutton was a secondary considera- tion, and, in general, was not considered at all. But the decreasing profits of wool- growing and the increasing popularity of mutton as an article of food in the manu- facturing centers and large cities effected a change in the east forty or fifty years since, and the mutton sheep received some attention ; the old native breed and the fine-wooled merino and its grades were crossed by rams of improved breeds of English sheep. This substitution began in southern New England, eastern New York, east- ern Pennsylvania, New Jersey, Delaware, Maryland, and Virginia, and in those sec- tions is practically complete, mutton being the object of sheepraising and wool a secondary consideration. Up to 1880, in the country north of the Ohio and west of the Alleghanies, woolgrowing was still the principal object. Within the last ten years western Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, and Wisconsin have been repeating what was done by the East many years before, making great changes by replacing the Merino and its grades with English sheep, so that, in 1890 over one-half of the sheep between the Alleghanies and the Mississippi River were esti- mated to be of native or English blood. The change in the two years past in the same direction has been very marked. In all the South Atlantic States, Kentucky, and Tennessee the English mutton sheep, represented by the old native stock and some improved breeds, is vastly predominant. Taken as a whole the entire country east of the Mississippi is practically abandoning to the far West and to foreign coun- tries the growing of fine wool, and substituting therefor the raising of sheep for food, and, incidentally, combing wool. This change in the character of the industry has caused increased attention to English breeds of sheep and English methods of sheep husbandry.* In the appendix will be found a table showing th$ number of sheep in each State as estimated by the Department of Agriculture in each year since 1875. It affords a ready means of measuring the progress or decline in each State and at the same time affords a crude indication of the stress and pressure of competition, with consequent internal move- ment in States and geographical divisions. The testimony is cumula- tive on this point, that local interests and conditions are stronger than any general condition or influence, and that the wool industry is con- trolled by the same natural economic laws in the United States as in other countries, and is subjected, if at all, to a very limited extent, to an artificial stimulus or disadvantage. WEIGrHT of fleeces. Coupled with the decrease in the number of sheep, there has been a notable increase in the average weight of a fleece. The average weights of American fleeces have just been given. In the English sheep, Prof. Low, in 1845, estimated the average weight of a fleece to be 4-5 pounds ; Mr. J. A. Clarke, in 1878, placed it * " Special Report on the History and PresentCondition of the Sheep Industry of the United States/' 1892, U. S. Department of Agriculture. 20 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. at 5-5 pounds ; and the Bradford Observer, in 1882, at 5-75 pounds. The weight will differ from season to season by as much as a quarter of a pound ; and much more widely according to sheep and pasture. In Wales the mountain fleece will yield from 1£ to 2£ pounds; and the low hind, from 5 to 7 pounds. The Irish mountain fleeces vary from 3 to 5 pounds, and the Koscommon from 10 to 12 pounds. The average for Ireland is from 6 to 6 \ pounds. In 1869 the average weight of Aus- tralian fleeces was given at 3*75 pounds, and at 3-65 pounds for Cape fleeces. Such estimates of production must be more or less of a general nature, and can show only the barest outline of the subject. Nor is the degree of accuracy any greater when the commerce of the world in wool is considered. There is a liability of counting the same trade two or even three times. An export of Australian wools may pass through the trade returns of the United Kingdom, France, or Holland before it reaches the place of consumption. Then, wools are exported in so many conditions — unwashed, washed, scoured, or unscoured. One pound of washed wool may represent two pounds of unwashed; the difference in scoured and unwashed wools is even greater, and varies with the nature of the sheep farm, the manner of treating and market- ing wools. The confusion of commercial nomenclature is also an almost insuper- able obstacle to a general table that shall be accurate. In taking the exports from eastern countries we have the results expressed in pounds, bales, bundles, and packages, and no common denominator. Mr. North, in the " Wool Book" of 1892, prints a table giving the average weights of bales of wool, and I insert it to show how wide the limits are: COMMERCE IN WOOLS. DOMESTIC. Pounds. Ohio, per bag Michigan, per bag Indiana, per bag Texas, per bag Utah greasy, per bag Montana greasy, per bag California scoured, per bale California greasy, per bale Eastern Oregon greasy, per bale Valley Oregon greasy, per bale . . Territory, per bale- 200 220 175 210 325 290 400 500 540 520 300 FOREIGN. Australian, per bale New South Wales greasy wool, average per bale New South Wales scoured, average per bale Cape, per bale , 350 400 260 400 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 21 Pounds. Cordova, per bale 1, 000 Montevideo, per bale 1 3 000 Donskoi, per bale 500 Donskoi washed fleeces, per sack 200 Donskoi unwashed 300 English combing, per sheet 600 Scotch carpet, per sheet GOO Scotch carpet, per bag 250 Aleppo, per bale East India : . Karadi ~ I 350 Bagdad ( ° Turkish ana Levant J River Plate 800 English wools vary from 500 to 600 pounds. In the diagram prefixed to this report, prepared upon a carefully minute study by Mr. W. Burchard, of this bureau, an attempt is made to show the exports in 1891 from wool-producing countries and the special imports into wool-consuming countries — such imports repre- senting the quantities that actually passed into consumption or manu- factures. In this way the difficulty arising from a repetition of commer- cial figures was largely obviated, and the general accuracy may be substantiated by the reasonably close approximation of the aggregates of imports and exports, the difference being 0.78 per cent of exports. That diagram is based upon the following figures:* Wool, Raw, Imported and Exported into and from Principal Countries during the year 1891. Countries. Imports. Exports. Europe : Austria- Hud gary Belgium Denmark France Germany Italy Netherlands Portugal (1890) Roumania Russia Spain Sweden and Norway. Switzerland United Kingdom North America : Canada United States Pounds. 58, 807, 400 92, 757, 746 4, 147, 226 429, 197, 395 364, 513, 160 19, 782, 400 114,514,400 19, 582, 620 16, 389, 400 5, 453, 800 6, 781, 146 9, 367, 620 335, 789, 414 119, 390, 280 Pounds. 15, 441, 136 2, 896, 579 92, 026, 370 64, 462, 640 89, 665, 840 3, 054, 040 7, 513, 757 64, 665, 352 10, 461, 000 2, 519, 880 50, 031, 300 1, 131, 802 291, 922 * It should be stated tliat no attempt is made to assimilate wools in the various conditions of marketing. The totals include all wools, whether washed, in the grease ; or scoured. 22 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. \\<»<>l, Raw, Imported and Exported into and prom Principal Countries di king the year 1891— Continued. Countries. South America: Argentine Republic . Uruguay Asia : British East Indies . . China Oceanica: New South Wales . . . Victoria' South Australia West Australia Tasmania New Zealand Queensland Africa: Algeria Cape of Good Hope. . Natal '. Total . Imports. Pounds. 12, 163,554 90, 776, 713 19, 990, 333 1, 719, 404, 627 Exports. Poimds. 304, 932, 844 57 002, 112 35, 655, 815 18, 042, 778 331,887, 720 164, 805, 907 66, 977, 214 8, 783, 073 9, 378, 173 106, 187,114 80, 992, 900 13, 860, 087 75, 520, 701 27, 688, 314 1, 705, 876, 370 EUROPEAN IMPORTS OF WOOL. To show tlie general tendency of the European wool supply from out- side sources, I insert a statement contained in Messrs. Helmuth Schwartze & Co.'s circular for 1893 : SUPPLY, CONSUMPTION, AND STOCKS IN EUROPE. Total Imports into the principal European ports of Extra European wools (includ- ing Turkish wools, Mohair, Alpaca, and Camels' hair), the deliveries during the past ten years, and the stocks in ports at the end of each year (in thousands of hales) : IMPORTS. 1893 1802 1891 1890 1889 1888 1887 1886 1885 1884 Australasian 1,743 1,800 1,656 1,451 1,327 1,328 1,188 1,193 1, 095 1, 135 281 286 323 286 287 290 235 228 183 189 River Plate 401 398 361 297 409 360 320 369 390 358 Other sorts 498 514 490 466 558 485 498 445 360 397 - Total 2, 926 2, 998 2, %30 2, 500 2, 581 2, 463 2, 241 2, 235 2, 028 2, 079 DELIVERIES. Australasian 1,736 1, 824 1,685 1,378 1, 341 1,329 1,217 1, 181 1,082 1,094 Cape 281 291 326 275 299 , 292 233 990 177 195 River Plate 384 393 359 293 415 360 318 376 381 360 476 525 486 455 570 521 462 446 379 365 Total 2,877 3, 033 2, 856 2, 401 2, 625 2, 502 2, 230 2,2*25 2, 019 2,014 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 23 STOCKS, DECEMBER 31. 1S93 1892 1891 1890 18S9 1888 1887 1886 1885 1884 Australasian 67 60 84 113 40 54 55 84 72 59 Cape 19 16 21 24 13 25 27 25 19 13 River Plate 33 16 11 9 5 11 11 9 16 7 86 61 75 71 60 72 108 72 73 92 Total 205 156 191 217 118 162 201 190 180 171 IMPORTS INTO THE UNITED STATES. The earliest statistics of the imports of raw wools into this country are to be found in a report of the Secretary of the Treasury, in answer to a resolution of the House of Eepresentatives, transmitted January 28 ? 1822. In the letter of transmittal he said : It is my duty to state that a.t the time the forms were prescribed, under the act- of 1820, it was not known that wool to any considerable extent was imported. That article will hereafter appear in the statements which will be annually ren- dered of the commerce and navigation of the United States. As further showing the little commercial importance of wool in that time ? au extract may be quoted from a letter of the Register of the Treasury Department, in whose office the crude statistics of trade were filed: The statements are ; however, necessarily imperfect, from the following circum- stance communicated by the collector of New York: That it is considered impracti- cable to furnish the information required from that office. Wool being subject to an ad valorem duty the value is only required to ascertain the duty ; the weight and price per pound is on the invoice, which is the property of the importer and not retained as a custom-house document. A similar difficulty occurs in relation to the weight of wool exported. The following figures, therefore, represent the first attempts to col- lect wool statistics and are necessarily very imperfect, being confined to such facts as could be obtained from the collectors ot customs under no general plan : IMPOKTS. 1817 1818 1819 1820 To Sept, 30, 1821 Quan- tity. Value. Quan- tity. Value. Quan- tity. Value. Quan- tity. Value. Quan- tity. Value. Angora goats, cam- Pounds Dollars Pounds Dollars Pounds Dollars Pounds Dollars Pounds Dollar 8 el s,vicuS a, red, or other, free of duty Sheep or lambs, 6, 600 6, 189 1,500 226 1,700 1,407 2,622 2, 250 merino or com- mon, washed or unwashed ; duty, 15 per cent 2,272 1,883 1,102 479 106, 788 24, 965 384, 333 93, 829 24 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. EXPORTS. Angora goats, etc., 1817 1818 1819 1820 To Sept. 30, 1821. Quan- tity. Value. Quan- tity. Value. Quan- tity. Value. Quan- tity. Value. Quan- tity. Value. Pounds Dollars Pounds Dollars Pounds Dollars Pounds Dollars Pounds 900 Dollars 900 Sheep or lambs, etc. : To England To France 2, 881 4,200 7, 081 18, 542 318 3, 465 Total 3,540 18, 860 11, 242 3,465 1,386 900 900 The total imports of sheep's or lamb's wool, 384,333 pounds, in the first three quarters of 1821, shown in the above statement, were derived from the following countries: Brazil 132,961 Spain _ 109,388 Sweden 53,000 Turkey 34, 227 England 30, 600 Denmark 9, 041 Hanse Towns 7, 917 Portugal 7, 199 384, 333 The interest in these early figures lies in the predominance of imports from Brazil and Spain, a reminiscence of the great influence at one time exerted by Spanish wool in the leading wool markets of the world and of the importance at that early date of the South American possibili- • ties of supply. Beginning with the year 1822, we have official state- ments of the imports of wool, and these have been collected in a table printed in the appendix. IMPORT PRICES OF WOOLS. A noteworthy fact is shown by a comparative study of the import prices of raw wools as declared upon entry into the United States and the United Kingdom— that the buyers of the United States do not seem to have benefited by the fall in price to the extent that English buyers have. Let us parallel the import prices per pound in the two countries since 1884 : Tears. United States. United Kingdom. Cents. d. 1884 16 12. 09 1885 14 10. 05 18S6 13 9.08 1887 14 10. 15 1888 15 9. 77 1889 14 2. 80 1890 15 10. 30 1891 14 9.36 1892 33 8.74 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 25 The fall in the United States prices from 1884 to 1892 has been 18-7 per cent; in the English prices, 27-7 per cent. If a further analysis of the American prices be made it will be found that the import prices of wools of class 1 fell 17-4 per cent; of class 2, 44 per cent, and of class 3, 23 per cent. Qf the imports in the two years the per cent of each class of wool was : 1884 1892 Class 1 23 -6 5-1 71 '3 28-7 4 67 '3 Class 2 Class 3 The heaviest falls in prices occurred in the wools most largely im- ported, but in neither instance was the fall as great as in the wools imported into the United Kingdom. The English returns are for the calendar year 1892 and those of the United States for the fiscal year ending June 30, 1892. The English returns therefore included the fall in prices that occurred in the six months following the close of the (United States) fiscal year. The difference can not be given accurately, and the only comparison possi- ble is to quote the import prices for imported wools in the (United States) fiscal year 1893 with the prices of 1892 : 1892 1893 Decrease since 1884. Cents. Cents. Per cent. 20 19 17 2 Wools of class 2 do.... 23 22 8-3 Wools of class 3 do.... 10 8 38 -4 All do.... 13 11 31-2 CONCLUSION. A careful study of the tables contained in the appendix will lead to the following conclusions : (1) That no commercial and industrial nation is self-sufficient in its supply of wool, or ever has been since machinery was first employed in the manufacture of woolens. (2) That the sheep-growing industry is subject to the same fluctua- tions of prosperity and depression that affect every other industry. (3) That neither woolgrowing nor wool manufacturing is a local industry, unless shut in by artificial restrictions on the free movement of exchange of the raw wool or manufactured products. (4) That such restrictions are rarely placed upon the raw wool, but are generally upon the manufactured products. No other nation of 26 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. commercial and industrial importance imposes as high duties on wool and woolens as the United States. (5) That no legislation, short of prohibition of foreign competition, has availed to maintain prices in the face of the rapid increase in the world's supply. (6) That prices of domestic and of imported wools have ruled higher in the last ten years in the United States than elsewhere; but this has not proved of advantage to either woolgrower or manufacturer of woolens. (7) That the present depression is as marked in Europe, Asia, and Australasia as in the United States, and can not, therefore, be due to any local factor or condition applying only to the United States. (8) That foreign nations possessing wool-manufacturing industries gain by a free choice of wools in a free market. (9) That the experience of European nations would show that the free entry of foreign wool has not destroyed their sheep-raising indus- tries ; that no outside competition has or can completely destroy it, or even injure it in the long run, where reasonable effort is made to main- tain quality of clip. (10) That the shifting of wool-producing centers — meaning by the center the country of wool production dominating the commercial markets — is inevitable, and can not be stayed or prevented by legisla- tion. (11) That wool raising is controlled by the same economic conditions as any other interest, agricultural, industrial, or commercial. It is extended when profitable and contracted when depressed. It is not conducted to suit manufactures, but manufactures conform to it, changing methods and machinery to follow the wool product. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS. In the preparation of this report I wish to acknowledge special cour- tesies freely extended by Messrs. Coates Bros, and Justice & Bate- man & Co., of Philadelphia; Messrs. Mauger & Avery and Macnaugh- ton Company, of New York City; Mr. S. 1ST. D. North, Mr.' Curtis Guild, jr., and Messrs. George William Bond & Co., of Boston, and the officials of the Department of Agriculture. I have freely drawn upon the offi- cial publications by the statistical bureaus of foreign governments, and especially the statistical abstracts compiled in GreatBritain and France. Drawn from so many sources, it is not possible in many cases to obtain returns apparently for the same year and covering the same subject that shall be exactly alike. The confusion is greater in that the num- ber of sheep and the wool clip is everywhere a matter of estimate, and hardly two estimates will agree, although they may have been prepared by the same methods. As to the great wool market of the world I have given the summaries of Messrs. Helmuth Schwartze & Co. in full since WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 27 1887. The matter of domestic prices I think is sufficiently covered by th e publication of the quotations made by Messrs. Coates Bros., of Phila- delphia, believed to be a the oldest wool circular issued in this coun- try," the first annual having been issued in 1851. Through the cour- tesy of Mr. Joseph P. Truitt, of Philadelphia, I am enabled to give his valuable and scientific estimates of the wool clips for a number of years. It is a pleasure to find the skilled knowledge and experience of private individuals so well applied to a special phase of an intricate subject of statistical inquiry. WORTHINGTON C. FOKD, Chief of Bureau. APPENDIX. 29 SHEEP, WOOL CLIP, AND WOOLEN MANUFACTURES OF THE UNITED STATES. 31 32 WOOL* AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Number of Sheep on Farms and Crop of Wool in each State [From the Official Reports of NUMBER OF SHEEP. States and Teiritories. 1S40 1850 18G0 1870 1880 1890 New Hampshire Massachusetts Rhode Island Connecticut Total New En gland States. New Jersey Maryland District of Columbia 2.M LI iivUV- 1 • 649, 264 617, 390 1, 681, 819 378, 226 90, 146 403, 462 451, 577 384, 756 1, 014, 122 188, 651 44, 296 174, 181 Nuvnibcv . 452, 472 310, 534 752, 201 114, 829 32, 624 117, 107 -i.f 14/ ttvUt, I • 434, 666 248, 760 580, 347 78, 560 23, 938 83, 884 -If lA/li(/l/&l • 565, 918 211, 825 439, 870 67, 979 17, 211 59, 431 370, 484 131, 611 333, 947 51,438 11, 400 37, 652 3, 820, 307 2, 257, 583 1, 779, 767 1, 450, 155 1, 362, 234 936, 532 5, 118, 777 219, 285 1, 767, 620 39, 247 257, 922 706 3, 453, 241 160, 488 1, 822, 357 27, 503 177, 902 150 2, 617, 855 135, 228 1, 631, 540 18, 857 155, 765 40 2, 181, 578 120, 067 1, 794, 301 22, 714 129, 697 604 1, 715, 180 117, 020 1, 776, 598 21,967 171,184 1, 528, 979 55, 409 1, 612, 107 12, 265 132, 329 14 Total Middle States North Carolina South Carolina Florida Alabama 7, 403, 557 5, 641, 641 4, 559, 285 4, 248, 961 3, 801, 949 3, 341, 101 1.293,772 538, 279 232, 981 267, 107 7, 198 163, 243 128, 307 98, 072 1,310, 004 595, 249 285, 551 560, 435 23, 311 371, 880 304, 929 110, 333 100, 530 91, 256 811, 591 1, 043, 269 546, 749 233, 509 512, 618 30, 158 370, 156 352, 632 181, 253 753, 363 202, 753 773, 317 370, 145 463, 435 124, 594 419, 465 26, 599 241, 934 232, 732 118, 602 714, 351 161.077 826, 783 552, 327 936, 765 497, 289 461, 638 118, 889 527, 589 56, 681 347, 538 287, 694 135, 631 2, 411, 633 246, 757 672, 789 674, 769 1, 000, 269 495, 313 402, 247 79, 421 440, 459 98, 275 386, 380 451, 779 186, 167 3, 454, 858 243, 999 540, 996 785, 063 937, 124 Tennessee 42, 151 741, 593 Kentucky Total Southern States . Ohio Illinois Wisconsin Minnesota 1, 008, 240 1, 102, 091 938, 990 4, 521, 003 5, 667, 160 5, 938, 767 5, 188, 809 7, 439, 166 8, 502, 081 2, 028, 401 99, 618 675, 982 395, 672 3 462 3, 942, 929 746, 435 1, 122, 493 894, 043 124 896 80 149, 960 762, 511 3, 546, 767 1, 271, 743 991, 175 769, 135 332, 954 13, 044 259, 041 937, 445 17, 569 2, 355 4, 928, 635 1, 985, 906 1, 612, 680 1, 568, 286 1 ftfiQ 99,9 132, 343 855, 493 1, 352, 001 109, 088 22 725 120, 928 4, 902, 486 2, 189, 389 1, 100, 511 1, 037, 073 1 336, 807 267, 598 455, 359 1, 411, 298 499, 671 1QQ 453 746, 443 4, 060, 729 2, 400, 318 1, 081, 133 922, 631 984, 972 399, 049 547, 394 950, 562 401, 192 209, 243 717, 990 Iowa Missouri 15, 354 348, 018 Total Western States. . 3, 566, 507 7, 743, 347 8, 141, 228 13, 757, 367 14, 146, 088 12, 675, 213 17, 574 I, 088, 002 376 86, 052 10, 157 2, 768, 187 11, 018 318, 123 44, 063 4, 152, 349 133, 695 1, 083, 162 292, 883 2, 475, 140 273, 469 1, 780, 312 265, 267 15, 382 Total Pacific States 32, 956 1, 184, 587 3, 141, 391 5, 662, 089 4, 794, 188 Z o H w 1 It O © © O C> © <& §> ^ © Q> <© ^ *0 «0 «0 00 CO Q0Q6Q0Q0QD Ov QQ QoQ( ^ © C> ©> <2>c>c*> > 00 00 <£> <*> 00 00 co QO 05 00 QQ ■* ^1 ^ r-i ^ ^ r-i N n< »i ^ rv( CO B is co .13 co 42 CO 5 Nf ^ Co 0} 0} 00 00 QO 00 *J5L» Id j ctliAl kj Let l;Co east of the Mississippi, except lower +8 -33 +155 -56 —3 -85 + 18-40 +11 -49 —20 -43 +57 -14 +193 '33 + 73 -33 +40 -91 +45. 45 —1 -52 Other Western States and Territories . +59 -09 —15 -38 -19-35 +6-25 Colorado and New Mexico + 150-00 + 83-33 +175 -00 Georgia, Lake, and Southern Total „ +16-67 +50 -00 + 71-43 + 33-33 + 18 -98 +18 -40 +36 -79 + 24-85 +1-79 a From 1866. 1861-1881 from the Tariff Commission volumes. 1832-1883 from the bulletin of the "Wool Manufacturers' Association. 1884-1886 from the Tariff Hearings, 1888, p. 599. 44 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. The Estimated Wool Clip oe the Country for 1886. [By Joseph P. Truitt.] States and Terri- tories. Texas Ohio California New Mexico Michigan New York Pennsylvania Oregon Indiana Wisconsin Illinois Missouri Colorado Kentucky Vermont Kansas West Virginia. . . Maine Arizona Iowa Montana Wyoming Utah Virginia Tennessee Washington Ter. Georgia Nevada Minnesota Nebraska New Hampshire . North Carolina . . Maryland Alabama New Jersey Dakota Idaho Mississippi Arkansas Massachusetts. . . Connecticut Louisiana South Carolina . . Florida Rhode Island Delaware Total . Average weight per fleece. Sh eep. Wool, unwashed. Shrinkage , Wool scoured. Lbs. Number. Pounds. P. ct. Pounds. g' 6, 802, 615 40, 815, 690 60* 16, 326, 276 5 4, 753, 034 a23,765, 170 50 11, 882, 585 6 6, 069, 698 36, 418, 188 60 14, 567, 276 4 4, 328, 755 17, 315, 020 40 10, 389, 012 H 2, 269, 607 al4 : 752, 446 58 6, 196, 038 6 1, 595, 824 a 9, 574, 944 50 4, 787, 472 6 1, 189, 481 a 7, 136, 886 50 3, 568, 443 7 2, 469, 551 17, 286, 857 60 6, 914, 743 oh I, 088, 517 5, 986, 843 45 3, 292, 764 6 1, 218, 800 7, 312, 800 60 2, 925, 120 6 1, 005, 653 6, 033, 918 50 3, 016, 959 6 1, 285, 078 7, 710, 468 50 3, 855, 234 6 1, 126, 645 6, 759, 870 ' 55 3, 041, 942 6 903, 223 5, 419, 338 40 3, 251, 603 7 378, 174 2, 647, 218 60 1,058, 888 7 1, 190, 163 8, 331, 141 65 2, 915, 900 5 624, 912 3, 124, 560 40 1, 864, 736 6 537, 407 3, 224, 442 30 2, 257, 110 8 896, 002 7, 168, 016 70 2, 150, 405 6 467, 580 2, 805, 480 65 981, 918 7 718, 750 5, 031, 250 65 1, 760, 938 H 518, 466 3, 370, 029 65 1, 179, 511 7 651, 767 4, 562, 369 55 2, 053, 067 i 5 463, 127 2, 315, 635 50 1, 157, 817 6 603, 780 3, 622, 680 60 1, 449, 072 6 544, 548 3, 267, 288 60 1, 306, 916 4 500, 594 2, 002, 376 50 1, 001, 188 7 661, 261 4, 628, 827 60 1, 851, 531 6 278, 162 1, 668, 972 65 584, 141 7 448, 673 3, 140, 711 65 1, 099, 249 6 195, 260 1, 171, 560 60 468, 624 5 468,816 2, 344, 080 60 937, 632 4 168, 582 674, 328 50 337, 164 4 337, 047 1, 348, 188 50 674, 094 5 107, 413 537, 065 50 268, 533 7 253,672 1, 775, 704 65 621, 497 7 210, 375 1, 472, 625 65 515, 419 6 276, 103 1, 656, 618 60 662, 648 7 234, 021 1, 638, 147 65 573, 352 6 64, 561 387, 366 60 154, 947 5 53, 477 267, 385 50 133, 693 5 116, 385 581, 925 55 261, 867 5 112, 935 564, 675 50 282, 337 5 91, 094 455, 470 50 227, 735 6 20, 449 122, 694 50 61, 347 6 22, 294 133, 764 50 66, 882 48, 322, 331 227, 101, 580 a 55,229,446 124, 945, 625 Estimated amount of combing wool " in grease." X and above. Medium. Quarter. Pounds. Pounds. Pounds. 4, 990, 685 1, 425, 910 712, 955 4, 425, 733 1, 436, 241 1, 498, 745 1, 436, 241 214, 106 12, 100, 799 4, 789, 474 428, 213 2, 925, 120 6, 168, 374 5, 419, 338 529, 443 833, 114 1, 249, 824 644, 888 716, 801 280, 548 1, 509, 375 505, 504 926, 254 980, 186 166, 897 269, 731 107, 413 177, 570 147, 262 DO, (OD 26, 738 145, 481 53, 505 11, 464, 306 12, 103, 553 33 ; 713, 345 a Washed. Total number of sheep 48, 322, 331 Pounds of wool unwashed "227, 1017580 washed 55, 229, 446 Total 282, 331, 026 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 45 Estimated Wool Clip of the Country for the Year 1887. [By Joseph P. Truitt.] States and Territories. Average weight per fleece. Texas Ohio California New Mexico Michigan New York Pennsylvania Oregon Indiana Wisconsin Illinois Missouri Colorado Kentucky Vermont Kansas West Virginia Maine Arizona Iowa Montana Wyoming Utah Virginia Tennessee Washington Territory . Georgia Nevada Minnesota Nebraska New Hampshire North Carolina Maryland Alabama New Jersey Dakota Idaho Mississippi Arkansas Massachusetts Connecticut Louisiana South Carolina Florida Rhode Island Delaware Pounds. 6 5 6 4 H 6 6 7. Mi 6 6 Total . Sheep. Number. 4, 761, 831 4, 5G2, 913 6. 069, 698 4, 025, 742 2, 156, 127 1, 579, 866 1,094, 323 2, 593, 029 1. 035, 091 1,072, 544 925, 201 1,182, 272 1, 149, 178 858, 062 378, 174 1, 106, 852 593, 666 526, 659 627, 201 425, 498 754, 688 534, 020 658, 285 449, 233 561, 515 555, 439 465, 552 674, 486 278, 162 439, 700 195, 260 450, 063 165, 210 323,* 565 106, 339 256, 209 231, 413 242, 971 224, 660 63, 270 53, 477 111,730 108, 418 90, 183 20, 245 22, 294 44, 759, 314 Wool, unwashed. Pounds. 28, 570, 986 a 22, 814, 565 36, 418, 188 16, 102, 968 a 14, 014, 825 a 9, 479, 197 a 6, 565, 938 18, 151, 203 5, 687, 501 6, 435, 264 5, 551, 206 7, 093, 632 6, 895, 068 5, 148, 372 2, 647, 218 7, 747, 964 2, 968, 330 3, 159, 954 5, 017, 608 2, 552, 988 5, 282, 816 3, 471, 130 4, 607, 995 2, 246, 165 3, 369, 090 3, 332, 634 1, 862, 208 4, 721, 402 1, 668, 972 3, 077, 900 1, 171, 560 2, 250; 315 660, 840 1, 294, 260 531, 695 1, 793, 463 1,619, 891 1, 457, 826 1, 572, 620 379, 620 267, 385 558, 650 542, 090 450, 915 121, 470 133, 764 5 208, 595, 126>) Iab2, 874,524<» Shrink- age. Per cent. 60 50 60 40 58 50 50 60 45 60 50 50 55 40 60 65 40 30 70 65 65 65 55 50 60 60 50 60 65 65 60 60 50 50 50 65 65 60 65 60 50 55 50 50 50 50 Wool, scoured. Pounds. 11, 428, 395 11, 407, 283 14, 567, 276 9, 661, 781 5, 886, 227 4,739, 598 3, 282, 969 7, 260, 482 3, 128, 126 2, 574, 106 2, 775, 603 3, 546, 816 3, 102, 781 3, 089, 024 1, 058, 888 2, 711, 788 1, 780, 998 2, 211, 968 1, 505, 283 893, 546 1, 848, 986 1, 214, 896 2, 073, 598 1, 123, 083 1, 347, 636 1,333,054 931,104 1, 888, 561 584, 141 1, 077, 265 468, 624 900, 126 330, 420 647, 130 265, 848 627, 713 566, 962 583, 131 550, 417 151, 848 133, 692 251, 393 271, 045 225, 457 60, 735 66, 882 116, 136, 685 a Washed. Unwashed 208, 595, 126 Washed 52, 874, 524 Total 261,469,650 46 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Estimated Wool Clip of the Country for the Year 1889. [By Joseph P. Truitt.] States and Territories. Average weight per fleece. Sheep. Wool, washed and unwashed. Shrink- age. Wool, scoured. jl yj (A/ivW/O . J.V (AjI/I Uts f ■ J- U (A/tl'Lio • • 6 547, 725 3 286 350 40 1 Q71 810 X, $7(1, oxu ISTeTV - Hampshire 6 194, 772 i, 168, 632 60 467 453 7 365 770 2 560 3Q0 60 1 094 l^ft X, U.J'*, ±Ovj IVTassachusetts 6 59, 505 357, 030 50 178 515 Rhode Island ........ .. 6 20, 435 122, 610 40 73, 566 Pnnnpf't.ipnt. 47, 231 236 155 45 log ~NT«w V' f»T*lr 6 1, 548, 426 9, 290, 556 50 4 64^ 978 ¥ow .Tp.rsftv .. ... ....... 5 103, 170 515, 850 50 257 925 6 935, 646 5 613 876 55 9 ry;>fi 94c 4, Qfi8 60 8, 286, 387 7 694 046 A QKQ Q99 65 1 700, 413 Colorado 7 1 114, 932 7 804, 524 65 2, 731, 583 8 665, 147 5, 321, 176 70 1, 596, 353 Dakota 7 242, 117 1, 694, 819 65 593, 187 7 374 890 Oil; Oi7V 2, 624, 230 65 918, 481 7 1 391 500 q 74.0 ^00 65 3, 409, 175 4 3, 514, 473 14, 057, 892 40 8, 434, 735 Utah 7 1,468, 500 10, 279, 500 55 4, 625, 775 Washington Territory 6 560, 883 3, 365, 298 60 1, 346, 119 7 565, 207 3, 956, 449 70 1, 186, 935 Total 42, 599, 079 255, 079, 479 40, 700, 000 110, 375, 350 Pulled wool, on estimate of 1887 Average shrinkage, 56-23 per cent. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 47 Estimated Wool Clip of the Country for the Year 1890. [By Joseph P. Truitt.J States and Territories. Average weight per fleece. Sheep. Wool, washed and unwashed. Shrink- •age. Wool, scoured. — Pounds. Number. Pomids. Per cent. Pounds. 6 542, 248 3, 253, 488 40 1, 952, 093 6 192, 824 1,156, 944 60 462, 778 7 362, 112 2, 534, 784 60 1, 013, 914 6- 56, 530 339, 180 50 169, 590 6 20, 231 121, 386 40 72, 832 5 46 759 233, 795 45 128, 587 6 1, 548, 426 9, 290, 556 50 4, 645, 278 5 103, 170 515, 850 50 257, 925 6 945, 002 5, 670, 012 55 2, 551, 505 6 22, 294 133, 764 50 66, 882 4 153, 763 615, 052 50 307, 526 5 444, 563 2, 222, 815 50 1,111,407 5 414, 819 2, 074, 095 55 933, 343 5 102, 031 510, 155 50 255, 077 4 411, 846 1, 647, 384 42 955, 483 5 110,351 551, 755 45 303, 465 4 286, 238 1, 144, 952 50 572, 476 6 240, 148 1,440, 888 55 648, 400 5 115, 082 575, 410 55 258, 935 6 4, 752, 640 28, 515, 840 60 11, 406, 336 7 269, 484 1, 886, 388 65 660, 236 6 511,118 3, 066, 708 55 1, 380, 019 West Virginia 5 508, 654 2, 543, 270 40 1,525, 962 Kentucky 6 805, 978 4, 835, 868 40 2, 901, 521 5 3, 943, 589 19, 717, 945 50 9, 858, 972 6* 2, 240, 841 14, 565, 466 58 6, 117, 496 1, 278, 000 7, 029, 000 45 3, 865, 950 6 688, 387 4, 130, 322 50 2, 065, 161 Wisconsin 6 809, 009 4, 854, 054 60 1,941,622 Minnesota 6 327, 375 1, 964,250 65 687, 487 6 275, 816 2, 854, 896 65 999, 214 C 1, 198, 200 7, 189, 200 50 3, 594, 600 7 438, 313 3, 068,191 65 1, 073, 867 7 239, 400 1,675, 800 65 586, 530 4, 035,120 26, 228, 280 66 9, 179, 898 7 2, 929, 830 20, 508, 810 60 8, 203, 524 7 700, 986 4, 906, 902 65 1, 717, 416 7 1, 783, 891 12, 487, 237 65 4, 370, 533 8 698, 404 5, 587, 232 70 1, 676, 170 7 266, 329 1, 864, 303 65 652, 506 7 487, 357 3,411,499 65 1, 194, 025 7 1, 989, 845 13, 928, 915 65 4, 875, 120 4 3, 092, 736 12, 370, 944 40 7, 422, 566 Utah 7 2, 055, 900 14, 391, 300 55 6, 476, 085 6 673, 060 4, 038, 360 60 1, 615, 344 Wyoming 7 1, 017, 373 7, 121, 611 65 2, 492, 564 Total 44, 336, 072 268, 774, 856 40, 700, 000 1 115, 208, 220 Pulled wool, on estimate of 1887 1 Average shrinkage, 54*88 per cent. 48 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Estimated Wool Clip of the Country for the Year 1891. [By S. N. D. North, on the basis of Joseph P. Truitt's estimate.] States and Territories. Average weight per fleece. Sheep. Wool, washed and unwashed. Shrink- age. Wool, scoured. Pounds. Number. Pounds. Per cent. Pounds. 6 547, 670 3, 286, 020 40 1,971,612 6 183, 183 1, 099, 098 60 439, 639 7 351, 249 2. 458, 743 60 983, 497 6 55, 965 335, 790 50 167^895 6 20, 433 122, 598 40 73, 559 5 45, 824 229, 120 45 126,016 6 1,393, 583 8, 361, 498 50 4, 180, 749 5 100, 075 500, 375 50 250, 187 6 1, 039, 502 6, 237, 012 55 2, 806, 655 6 22, 517 135, 102 50 67, 551 4 156, 838 627, 352 50 313, 676 5 444, 563 2, 222, 815 50 1, HI, 407 5 398, 226 1, 991, 130 55 896, 009 5 98, 970 494, 850 50 247, 4^5 4 383, 017 1, 532, 068 42 888, 599 5 111,455 557, 275 45 306, 501 4 274, 788 1, 099, 152 50 549, 576 Mississippi 6 285, 345 1, 412, 070 55 635, 432 5 113, 931 569, 655 55 256, 345 6 4, 990, 272 29, 941, 632 60 11, 976, 653 7 269, 484 1, 886, 388 65 660, 2C6 Tennessee 6 511,118 3, 066, 708 55 1, 380, 019 West Virginia 5 518, 827 2, 594, 135 40 1, 556, 481 Kentucky 6 765, 679 4, 594, 074 40 2, 756, 444 5 4,061,897 20, 309, 485 50 10, 154, 742 2, 263, 249 14, 711, 118 58 6, 178, 670 1, 150, 200 6, 326, 100 45 3, 479, 3f5 Illinois 6 770, 993 4, 625, 958 50 2, 312, 9'. 9 Wisconsin 6 889, 910 5, 339, 460 60 2, 135, 7f 4 Minnesota 6 330, 649 1, 983, 894 65 694, 363 Iowa 6 452, 025 2, 712, 150 65 949, 2f 3 Missouri 6 898, 650 5, 391, 900 60 2, 695, 9f0 Kansas » 7 447, 079 3, 129, 553 65 1, 095, 344 Nebraska 7 234, 612 1, 642, 284 65 574, 7S9 6| 3, 712, 310 24, 130, 015 66 8,204, 2(5 7 2, 431, 759 17, 022, 313 60 6, 808, 955 Nevada 7 504, 710 3, 532, 970 65 1,236, 540 7 1, 819, 569 12, 736, 983 65 4, 457, 944 8 593, 643 4, 749, 144 70 1,424,743 7 274, 319 1, 920, 233 65 672.182 7 501,978 3, 513, 846 65 1, 229, 846 7 2, 067, 337 14, 471, 359 65 5, 004, 976 4 3, 133, 663 12, 534, 652 40 7. 520, 791 Utah 7 2, 055, 900 14, 391, 300 55 6, 476. 085 6 673, 060 4, 038, 360 60 1, 615,344 7 1, 119, 110 7, 833, 770 65 2, 741, 820 43, 419, 136 262, 401, 507 45, 000, 000 112, 326, 703 27, 000, 000 Pulled wool, Department of Agricul- ! Average shrinkage, 54*87 per cent, WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. . 49 Estimated Wool Clip of the Country for the Year 1892. [By S. 1ST. D. North.] States ond Territories. Average weight per fleece. Sheep. "Wool, washed and unwashed. Shrink- age. Wool, scoured. Pounds. Number. Pounds. Per cent. Pounds. 569 577 3 417 469 43 1 007 0^3 7 188 078 100, 0 / O 1 QO0 746 60 PL98 9Q8 0^.0, ..Jo 71 «2 3<^8 974. ooo, & 1 ■* 9 fi«7 055 60 1 074 822 57 644 34 864 45 190 225 on jq3 -SU, 4oO 199 ^08 40 73 558 ,47 1 QQ 4 / , iyy LiOO, J JO 45 129 797 6i 1 421 445 8 884 0Q4 53 4, 1 (O, OZ4 5 102, 077 510 385 48 265 400 1 OQ1 /1 77 i, uyi, 4 / / O ^48 809 O, 040, OOii 53 3 077 00^ 0, u / ( , yoo °2 90 Q07 zz, yo/ 190 318 li-U, OlO 46 68 211 4i 164 680 lUlt, uou f 741, 060 50 370 p»30 O 1 VJ, OOU AAQ OOQ 44y, uuy 9 94^ 04^ CtO, v±o 45 1 234 774 0 3Q0 0O1 oyu, zoi 1 Q^l ^O^i i, yoi, ouo 53 Q1 7 115 »i /, no R 0 QQ 073 oy, u /o 44^ ^fi^ 50 999 A83 ZZZ, OOo 41 ^2 ooo ni7 OOo, Ul / 1 793 ^77 1, ( iJ!.>, Oil 42 QQQ 074 yyy, 0/4 5 117 028 ^8^ 140 43 333 ^30 OOo, OOU 41 *2 9fiQ OQO 1 211 814 50 60 ^ 007 UuJl Jul 003 P»7Q ZZo, 0/0 1 341 408 1, o41, 400 55 OH3 OOO OUo, OOU 5 118 488 592 440 53 978 446 7 / c nin i 7^ D, U4U, I/O Qf; 081 "0^ oO, ZOl, -CD 65 19 3/ Tl pani" Q 146 241 470 45, 592 48, 927 167 323 TVTi qqi aai'mii 235 116 218 1 082 92 620 28, 800 53, 100 306 270 70 718 807 635 19, 728 137, 408 129, 177 156, 887 IsTcw -HciinpsliirG 2, 588 4, 911 7, 375 9 471 670, 142 1. 733, 164 2, 243, 436 3, 361 878 835 1,375 5, 172 7 375 903 136 432, 642 1, 417, 515 2, 460, 126 New Mexico 20 2, 000 4, 220 9, 063 24, 364 38 739 qqo qtf; 2 893 926 7, 258, 866 13 10Q 5^9 N*orth Carolina 253 249 185 508 fiO 036 39, 101 23, 195 95 739 Ohio 728 2, 329 2, 423 4, 561 179, 160 574, 164 414, 472 1,118,206 Oregon 30 179 216 402 16 200 112 213 86, 088 175 313 "Pftnn Q\fl XTSX Til Q 6, 088 16, 632 42, 404 ^fi 0Q9 1 4.10 394. f; 736 Qfi9 12 385 598 1Q Q35 9Q8 Rhode Island 4, 229 7, 894 12, 247 19, 471 1, 069, 176 2, 862, 492 3, 730, 247 7,117,123 kJULllll \jctL\J±XlXcL - - - - 92 53 13 11 400 3 815 1 173 Tennessee 10 428 402 998 2, 472 62*80 67, 063 239, 657 43 100 36 402 7, 680 20, 278 25, 700 139, 395 Utah 106 277 344 48, 040 68, 508 121, 176 "Vermont 2, 073 1,895 2,482. 2, 316 214 572 649, 628 649, 071 900, 208 494 278 365 636 106, 692 58, 765 71, 720 171, 463 West Virginia 316 357 307 59, 828 44, 861 67, 380 Wisconsin 105 785 875 3,518 27, 036 230, 106 218,357 822, 423 Washington 29 4, 000 All other States . . . 145 44, 893 Total 43, 738 92, 973 162, 839 223, 298 10, 153, 938 31,246,432 47, 789, 413 77, 581, 525 a The statistics for 1870 do not include the manufacture of hats. 54 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. COST OF MATERIALS USED. [From the official Reports of tlie United States Census.] States. 1860 1870(a) 1880 1890 JDOlidTS . Tin Tin v o AJOllCLTS. JDollOLYS. 80, 798 57, 338 49, 361 114, 890 A 1 55 982 85 972 27 980 50, 000 608, 141 997, 539 828, 771 n +• + 4 043 124 11 351 425 14 749 0Q1 12 Q73 971 75, 807 392, 614 448, 285 295, 605 150 260, 475 268, 176 165, 065 166, 696 110, 462 1, 701, 323 1, 623, 693 1, 869, 858 111 (\ \ Q Tt £1 352, 362 2, 684, 315 1 926 670 2 287 680 67, 293 998, 073 437, 301 507, 478 86, 105 107, 251 510, 902 831, 628 852, 405 1, 656, 7f0 31, 300 19, 047 58, 004 TVTnin p 1 003, 366 4 013, 759 4. 444 qqn 5 737 484 Maryland 267, 355 233, 924 382, 224 520, 870 13, 836, 475 30, 539, 366 41, 677, 919 45, 937, 152 Michigan 69, 010 659, 700 583, 241 886, 541 108, 540 160, 867 399, 487 119, 849 79, 566 211, 646 508,039 56, 745 849, 313 723, 286 341, 461 New Hampshire 9 73Q fi 34.2 740 7 854 f j QUI, t/OO 8 895 504 548, 578 1, 507, 256 4, 117, 035 6, 330, 201 12, 775 New York 3 191 filJ. IQ ^0 7Q^ Qfi 786 418 OU, 1 OU, * J.O North Carolina 151,005 166, 497 255, 707 265, 183 Ohio 476, 833 2, 119, 869 1, 395, 512 3, 434, 506 Oregon 27 000 227 486 327 252 4, 427, 138 22, 390, 853 43, 664, 468 55, 011, 590 Rhode Island j 07A 091 y, o^o, loo 13, 094, 650 99 79fi 948 South Carolina fin nnn 22 238 19 455 ou, uuu 5, 225 503, 737 423, 054 759, 766 Texas 25, 980 86, 817 44, 435 211, 607 Utah 98, 272 147, 226 188, 889 1, 662, 650 1, 955, 972 2, 372, 428 2, 116, 882 389, 204 317, 800 383, 080 466, 340 West Virginia 307, 051 247,543 210, 461 85, 743 687, 368 901, 918 2, 024, 108 Washington 52, 000 All other States 98, 092 Total 30,029,062 110, 740, 799 164, 371, 551 208, 971, 024 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OP WOOL. 55 VALUE OF PRODUCTS. States. 1860 1870(a) 1880 1890 Dollars. Dollars. Dollars. Dollars. 191, 474 89, 998 63, 745 207, 875 78, 690 127, 430 38, 360 150, 000 1,102, 754 1, 634, 858 1, 428, 203 6, 840, 220 17, 962, 048 24, 855, 729 21, 492, 025 153, 035 576, 067 665, 253 482, 022 500 464, 420 471, 523 239, 390 340, 095 187, 613 2, 849, 249 2, 380, 584 3, 471, 651 Indiana 649, 771 4, 329, 711 2, 887, 547 3, 863, 786 127, 640 1, 647, 606 682, 812 700, 981 153, 150 211, 525 845, 226 1,312, 458 1,264, 988 2, 784, 768 45, 200 30, 795 152, 455 1, 717, 007 6, 483, 881 6, 962, 003 8, 857, 856 605, 992 427, 596 539, 028 781, 723 21, 657, 165 47, 783, 083 67, 451, 805 74, 295, 867 139, 246 1, 204, 868 858, 766 1,689, 974 219, 862 263, 378 730, 226 158, 507 147, 323 299, 605 924, 185 Missouri 143, 025 1, 256, 213 1,015, 961 629, 902 4, 301, 653 10, 213, 526 13, 220, 850 14, 589, 420 1, 085, 104 2, 422, 805 6, 829, 074 10,<874, 280 21, 000 2sTew York 5, 870, 117 14, 633, 186 34, 978, 287 53, 909, 624 North Carolina 291, 000 298, 638 303, 160 435, 821 Ohio 825, 000 3, 467, 699 2, 198, 264 5, 346, 962 Oregon 85, 000 505, 857 549, 030 614, 932 Pennsylvania 8, 191, 675 35, 463, 624 67, 821, 397 90, 992, 210 Rhode Island 6,915, 205 15, 394, 067 21,624, 204 36, 073, 285 South Carolina 80, 000 34, 459 24, 075 Tennessee 8, 100 696, 844 620, 724 1, 216, 419 38, 796 152, 968 80, 500 394, 080 199, 600 279, 424 392, 094 Vermont 2,938,626 3, 644, 459 3, 813, 077 3, 872, 784 717, 827 488, 352 577, 968 795, 309 West Virginia 475, 763 359, 586 350, 132 Wisconsin 172, 720 1, 256, 467 1, 498, 886 3, 507, 455 Washington 70, 000 All other States 206, 063 Total 65, 596, 364 177, 495, 689 267, 252, 913 345, 942, 824 a The statistics for 1870 do not include the manufacture of hats. 56 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Summary Classification of Woolen Manufacturing Industries, (a) Industries. No. of es- tablish- ments. Capital. Miscella- neous ex- penses. Total. Value of land, buildings, and machinery, (a) Live assets*. MILLS. r 1890 ^' oolc7 * h880 1.312 1,990 143 76 34 26 32 43 175 195 807 359 Dollars. 137, 930, 014 96, 095', 564 72, 194, 642 20, 374, 043 4, 589, 021 1, 958, 254 4, 369, 184 3, 615, 830 39, 769, 441 21, 468, 587 55, 457, 642 15. 579, 591 Dollars. 64, 754, 417 Dollars. 73, 175, 597 Dollars. 8, 511, 292 r!890 32, 000, 336 40, 194, 306 4, 980, 187 rl890 1, 994, 384 2, 594, 637 233, 621 r 1890 1, 421, 349 2, 947, 835 251, 818 rl890 rl890 Hosiery and knit goods ^ -^ggQ I 1880 18, 915, 634 20. 853, 807 1, 839, 568 28, 364, 750 27, 092, 892 3, 730, 714 62, 503 2, 689 314, 309, 944 159, 091,869 147, 450, 870 166, 859, 074 19, 547, 200 Industries. Woolen . Worsted. Felt . Wool hats . Carpets, other than rag 5 Hosiery and knit goods j Labor and wages. Average number of hands employed. Total amount Total cost of all materials. Total value of all prod- ucts. Total. Males. Fe- males. Chil- dren. paid in wages. 1890 Number 79, 388 Number 44, 526 Number 30, 236 Number 4, 626 Dollars. 28, 478, 326 Dollars. 82, 184, 666 Dollars. 133, 612, 827 1880 86, 504 46, 978 29, 372 10, 154 25, 836, 392 100, 845, 611 160, 606, 721 1890 43, 593 19, 705 20, 063 3, 825 15, 880, 183 50. 644, 342 79, 194, 652 1880 18, 803 6, 435 9, 435 2,895 5, 683, 027 22, 013, 628 33, 549, 942 1890 2, 266 1, 594 510 162 1, 041, 296 • 2,809,187 4. 654, 768 1880 1,524 1. 203 233 88 439, 760 2, 530, 710 3,61.9, 652 1890 3,592 2. 309 1, 124 159 1, 363, 944 2, 799, 791 5, 329, 921 1880 5,470 3, 222 1,459 789 2. 005 1,893, 215 4, 785, 774 8, 516, 569 1890 29, 189 14, 101 13, 083 11, 639, 176 28, 649, 031 47, 801, 499 1880 20, 371 10, 104 8, 570 1,697 6, 835, 218 18, 984, 877 ! 31, 792, 802 1890 63, 004 17, 083 41, 041 4, 880 18, 338, 341 36, 008, 625 67, 637, 442 1880 28, 885 7, 517 17, ^07 3,661 6, 701, 475 15, 210, 951 ! 29, 167, 227 1890 221, 032 99. 318 106, 057 15, 657 76, 741,266 203, 095, 642 338, 231, 109 1880 161, 557 75, 459 66, 814 19, 284 47, 389, 087 164, 371, 551 267, 252, 913 a Includes property hired to the value of $17,326,780. b Excluding 267 idle establishments reported in wool manufacture. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Detailed Statement of Materials Consumed, 1880-1890. a 57 Industries. Woolen . - Worsted. Felt . c 1890 " I 1880 r 1890 " 1 1880 r 1890 " I 1880 c 1890 " X 1880 Carpets, other r1890 than rag. I 1880 Hosiery and knit c 1890 goods. 1 1880 Wool hats . Total . r 1890 ' ( 1880 No. of estab- lish- ments. 1,312 1, 990 143 ' 76 34 26 32 43 175 195 807 359 2, 503 2, 689' Foreign wool in condition purchased. Domestic wool in condition purchased. Pounds. 16, 822, 138 20, 482, 607 37, 869, 023 15, 687,815 1, 689, 588 709, 067 259, 325 1,864,139 54, 742, 234 34, 008, 252 2, 734, 304 448, 758 Pounds, 168, 525, 806 177, 042, 288 59, 832, 451 25, 461, 511 5, 039, 495 4, 204, 806 4, 278, 628 6, 107, 471 2, 145, 632 2, 029, 318 18, 935, 089. 8, 146, 137j 114, 116, 612 258, 757, 101 73,200,698 222,991,531 Total quan- tity of for- eign and domestic wool in scoured pounds as prepared for cards. Pounds. 100, 246, 094 109, 724, 213 54, 989, 746 26, 334, 635 4, 213, 230 2, 733, 796 3, 018, 114 3, 597, 279 35, 733, 137 23, 563, 216 16, 801, 492 5, 927, 692 215,001,813 171, 880, 831 Total cost of foreign and domes- tic wool. Dollars. 48, 867, 811 67, 380, 250 28, 280, 287 15, 235, 878^ 1, 841, 382| 1, 624, 871 1,448,799 2, 644, 293 9, 858, 307 6, 975. 129 8, 269, 418 3, 821, 183 98, 566, 004 97, 681, 604 Shoddy. Pounds. 51,862,397 46, 583, 983 2, 608, 831 190, 800 1, 450, 384 2, 406, 849 306, 351 1, 368, 562 653, 154 90, 469 4, 745, 144 1, 523, 263 61, 626, 261 52, 163, 926 Dollars. 5, 398, 617 7, 014, 100 347, 006 31,300 179, 505 383, 267 85, 963 370, 963 43, 420 12, 442 880, 948 233, 823 6, 935, 459 8, 045, 895 Industries. Camel's hair and noils. Mohair and noils. All other animal hair. MILLS. Woolen j 1890 Pounds. 1, 781, 240 Dollars. 289. 970 Pounds. 60, 533 Dollars. 15, 991 • Pounds. 9, 619, 277 Dollars. 493, 492 ( 1880 1,234, 064 332, 419 84, 080 50, 837 4, 497, 524 238, 046 Worsted c 1890 4, 411, 543 672, 392 2, 038, 732 824, 869 1, 083, 690 120, 585 1 1880 207, 065 40, 341 31, 598 19 458 519 237 Felt 5" 1890 68, 250 3,071 2, 355, 928 48, 301 I 1880 70, 000 11, 688 7, 500 5, 610 1, 728, 000 147, 600 45, 850 Wool hats * - C 1890 4,508 2, 130 113, 878 < 1880 3, 911 1,001,929 1, 875 140, 175 7, 436 3, 645, 096 3, 615 373, 823 Carpets, other C1890 32, 302 5, 456 than rag. * 1880 46, 300 8, 808 4,000 700 96, 540 7, 604 Hosiery and knit r 1890 415, 154 140, 149 169 87 14, 173 3,918 goods. 1 1880 21, 779 10, 846 40, 000 16, 000 5, 150 518 Total . rl890 7, 689, 804 1,251,367 2, 136, 244 848, 533 16, 865, 764 1, 153, 997 ( 1880 1, 583, 119 401, 789 159, 678 86, 995 6, 335, 169 295, 870 Industries. Cotton purchased. Chemicals and dye stuffs. Fuel. Cost of all other mate- rials, includ- ing yarns purchased. Total cost of all materials. MILLS. c 1890 Pounds. 37, 158, 712 Dollars. 4, 213, 527 Dollars. 4, 602, 765 Dollars. 1, 711, 169 Dollars. 16, 591, 324 Dollars. 82, 184, 666 ( 1880 24, 744, 964 3, 395, 569 4, 758, 498 1, 832, 703 15, 843, 189 100, 845, 611 rl890 3, 881, 743 438, 637 2, 037, 729 1,048,245 16, 874, 592 50, 644, 342 1 1880 1, 757, 842 - 211,293 565, 660 314, 918 5, 594, 543 22, 013, 628 Felt r 1890 395, 032 37, 133 169, 522 92, 551 437, 722 2, 809, 187 *1880 1, 181, 500 114, 660 150, 921 77, 437 126, 204 2, 530, 710 Wool hats r 1890 159, 700 84, 904 898, 807 2, 799, 791 i 1880 185, 400 21, 870 173, 040 110, 985 1, 459, 133 4, 785, 774 C a r p e ts, othei rl890 1, 755, 761 187, 637 1, 265, 267 447, 517 16, 327, 429 28, 649, 031 than rag. Hosiery and knit I 1880 1, 369, 439 915, 234 263, 480 510, 106 10, 347, 275 21,574,700 18, 984, 877 c 1890 32, 447, 617 3, 714, 065 36, 008, 625 goods. 1 1880 20, 131, 151 2, 489, 783 631, 060 209, 669 7, 798, 069 15, 210, 951 Total rl890 75, 638, 865 8, 590, 999 9, 150, 217 3, 894,492 72, 704, 574 2!)3, 095, 642 1 1880 48, 000, 857 6, 233, 175 7, 648, 618 2, 809, 192 41, 168, 413 164, 371, 551 a From North's Wool Book. 58 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. The Manufacture of Shoddy, 1890. States. Number mills. Total capital. Total hands employed. Total amount paid in wages. Miscella- neous ex- penses. Number cards. Connecticut | Illinois | Maine a Maryland Massachusetts $ New Hampshire ^ New Jersey | New York f Ohio £ Pennsylvania £ Rhode Island £ Vermont a All other States a United States ... J 1890 1880 1890 1880 1880 1880 1890 1880 1890 1880 1890 1880 1890 1880 1890 1880 1890 1880 1890 1880 1880 1890 1890 1880 Dollar 8. 401, 986 86, 000 118, 037 22, 000 6, 000 5, 000 939, 050 460, 500 33, 463 17, 300 353, 225 35, 000 489, 020 32, 700 756, 530 250, 000 663,813 186, 000 256, 750 49, 600 15, 000 79, 333 Number. 180 139 114 31 8 15 435 471 25 23 127 30 192 78 696 246 306 143 146 83 15 45 Dollars. 85, 816 35, 345 36, 254 12, 300 1,905 3, 100 180, 748 173, 439 11, 683 5,700 43, 755 25, 000 77, 361 33, 610 182, 700 40, 000 134, 852 47, 441 68, 014 18, 590 3, 896 19, 076 Dollars. 26, 399 11, 744 47 12 63, 475 1,795 20, 650 12, 540 28, 266 42, 029 23, 578 167 12 19 36 43 62 58 3,851 4,091,207 1, 165, 100 2, 266 1,282 840, 259 400, 326 234, 327 14 470 States. Connecticut . Illinois Maine a Maryland Massachusetts - New Hampshire ^ New Jersey ^ New York | Ohio £ Pennsylvania ^ Rhode Island ^ Vermont a All other States a United States. 1890 1880 1890 1880 1880 1880 1890 1880 1890 1880 1890 1880 1890 1880 1890 1880 1890 1880 1890 1880 1880 1890 1890 1880 Cost of materials. Dollars. 442, 552 261, 200 103, 588 74, 500 7,200 14, 150 1, 170, 080' 1, 308, 715 • 86, 816 38, 900 300, 613 80, 734 342, 112 321, 220 1, 100, 480 575, 000 1, 082, 114 510, 977 1, 163, 935 137, 054 37, 000 83, 092 5, 875, 382 3, 366, 650 Shoddy and mungo. Quantity. Pounds. 2, 398, 000 2, 528, 616 10, 018, 424 911, 763 1, 252, 000 2, 616, 000 4, 800, 000 8, 007, 875 1, 711, 000 1, 258, 376 35, 502, 054 Value. Dollars. 390, 760 167, 607 1,418 817 111,848 315, 640 383, 200 1, 377, 500 1, 191, 378 274, 741 104. 443 5, 735, 934 Value of all other prod- ucts. Dollars. 257, 300 14, 503 195, 642 74, 000 88, 278 267, 107 1, 076, 051 2, 900 1, 975, 781 Total value of all prod- ucts. Dollars. 648, 060 347, 500 182, 110 100, 000 12, 000 22, 500 1, 614, 459 2, 305, 985 111, 848 49, 600 389, 640 137, 500 471, 478 407, 590 1, 377, 500 700, 000 1, 458, 485 655, 895 1, 350, 792 195, 045 56, 000 107, 3^3 7, 711, 715 4, 989, 615 a Includes States in which there were less than three establishments in order that the operations of individual establishments may not be disclosed. These establishments were located as follows: Cali- fornia, 1; Maine, 2} Vermont,!; Wisconsin,!. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 59 Price per pound of Fine, Medium, and Coarse Washed Clothing Fleece Wool, etc., in the New York Market for the months of January, April, July, and October, in the Given Years. (Currency prices from 1862 to 1878.) [From Manger & Avery's Annual Wool Circular.] Year. January. April. July. October. Fine. Medi- um. Coarse. Fine. Medi- um. Coarse. Fine Medi- um. Coarse. Fine. Medi- um. \j\JcLl oU. Cts. * Cts. Cts. Cts. Cts. Cts. Cts. Cts. Cts. Cts. Cts. Cts. 1824 68 53 40 70 46 31 55 40 30 60 40 30 60 43 32 60 42 33 50 41 32 50 42 36 1826 55 43 38 52 46 41 37 30 26 43 37 31 1827 36 32 28 45 34 30 37 31 25 43 32 25 1828 42 30 25 44 36 28 48 38 33 48 40 32 1829 54 45 35 45 35 32 46 36 32 37 30 27 1830 40 35 30 50 38 32 60 50 40 70 60 48 1831.... 70 60 48 70 60 50 75 65 50 70 60 30 1832 65 55 44 60 06 42 50 42 30 50 40 31 1833 55 41 33 63 53 38 61 54 40 65 55 37 1834 70 60 48 67 56 44 60 50 40 62 50 44 1835 63 50 A(\ 4U 65 60 45 63 56 AO 4Z 65 60 33 1836 65 60 45 68 62 47 70 60 50 70 60 33 1837 72 63 A Q 4o 68 00 a a 40 52 52 36 49 40 25 1838 OU AO Qf* 50 AO oo 46 Qfi oO OU 56 48 26 1839 DO A Q 4o QQ OO OO 48 38 57 48 40 60 55 33 1840 50 45 QQ 49 43 36 45 39 33 46 38 33 1841 r;o O-j A ^ 40 QP* oO 53 Ad 40 37 50 44 34 48 42 33 1842 4o AO DO A (\ 40 An 4U 32 43 37 QO OU 38 31 25 1843 35 30 Zo 33 28 25 35 30 26 36 32 26 1844 37 Qfk oU Oft zo 43 36 30 45 37 32 50 40 33 1845 47 40 31 45 38 32 40 36 30 38 35 28 1846 40 35 30 38 33 28 38 32 27 36 30 22 1847 45 40 30 47 40 31 46 40 31 47 40 30 1848 45 38 30 43 37 30 38 32 28 33 30 24 1849 33 30 23 40 36 30 40 35 28 42 36 30 1850 47 40 33 45 37 30 45 37 30 46 40 35 1851 46 40 33 50 44 36 47 42 37 45 40 35 1852 43 38 34 42 36 33 45 38 33 50 42 37 1853 58 56 50 62 56 50 60 53 48 55 50 48 1854 53 47 42 57 52 46 45 37 30 42 36 30 1855 40 35 32 43 35 32 50 40 33 52 41 36 1856 50 38 35 57 45 38 55 42 36 60 55 45 1857 58 50 42 60 56 45 56 50 40 * 38 30 25 1858 40 33 27 42 35 30 43 37 30 56 41 36 1859 60 '52 45 60 46 37 56 40 35 60 50 42 1860 60 50 42 52 45 40 55 50 40 50 45 40 1861 45 40 37 45 37 32 38 30 22 47 48 50 1862 48 50 50 46 45 43 48 47 45 60 60 63 1863 75 68 70 80 85 80 75 70 65 85 80 76 1864 80 78 76 78 77 72 100 100 90 103 95 100 1865 102 100 96 80 80 75 75 73 65 75 75 65 1866 70 65 50 65 60 48 . 70 67 60 63 60 56 1867 68 53 50 60 55 50 55 49 45 48 46 40 1868 48 43 38 50 48 45 46 45 43 48 48 45 1869 50 50 48 50 50 48 48 48 47 48 48 46 1870 '■8 46 44 48 47 46 46 45 43 48 48 44 1871 47 46 43 50 52 47 62 60 55 63 62 58 60 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Price per pound of Fine, Medium, and Coarse Washed Clothing Fleece Wool, etc. — Continued. Year. January. April. July. October. .Fine. Modi- inn. Coarse. Fine. Medi- Coarse. Fine. Medi- Coarse. Fine. Medi- Coarse. Cts. Cts. Cts. Cts. co. Cts. Cts. Cts. Cts. Cts. Cts. Cts. 1872 70 72 G6 80 80 76 72 70 65 66 60 57 70 08 65 56 53 48 50 48 44 54 53 47 1874 58 54 47 56 50 47 53 53 •46 54 54 47 1875 50 47 54 52 46 52 49 46 48 50 42 1870 48 52 42 46 49 40 38 35 31 45 40 33 1877 46 43 36 45 40 33 50 44 37 48 44 36 1878 44 45 38 40 . 43 35 36 36 32 35 37 32 1879 34 35 32 34 34 31 37 38 34 41 43 38 1880 50 55 48 55 60 52 46 48 42 46 48 42 1881 47 49 43 40 44 37 42 44 36 43 46 36 1882 44 46 47 42- 45 34 42 45 34 42 45 34 1883 40 43 33 44 44 37 39 41 33 39 40 34 1884 40 40 34 38 38 34 35 34 30 35 34 30 1885 34 33 29 32 32 28 32 31 28 33 35 32 188G 35 36 32 33 34 30 33 33 29 35 38 34 1887 33 38 34 33 37 33 34 37 34 32 36 34 1888 31 35 33 31 34 33 29 33 31 31 34 31 1889 . 34 38 33 33 37 31 35 39 32 33 37 31 1890 33 37 29 33 36 29 33 37 •29 33 37 31 1891.. 33 37 31 32 37 31 31 35 29 31 35 30 1892 30 35 31 29 34 31 28 34 30 29 33 29 1893 29 33 29 30 32 31 24 26 25 23 24 21 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. in iq m in « I f I II 3Mm t> C- CO oo oo o o m co co tr— t~j- co in in oo co o CO CO CO CD CO s; o OJ o oo in ^ co o co o m CO oo ^3 CO CO ^ co m oo oo t> co ^ io ^ g co co c~ in 4j o in m m ^ m -t* ^ti I l I i l co co co co ^ O IM IM O 00 in in in in glMOOCOO £ m m m oo co co oo co in ^ 4j »n 4< in o> oo co a£ in "^t* "'Jt g d t- O 4 Q ^ in ^ m ^ -^i -^i J. .I i i J ^ oo o LO io >o S co co co m in ill C 'O J'Js p ® g ~ ^ cp r C'C r CrP r P ^ CD CD CD 03 03 03 03 03 fe fe 5 o3 o3 OS 2 S P p a < • « s CD bi] © o S h rP > « © tf-g CD CD" 2 P P ^ cpcp 62 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OP WOOL. 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Cents. 20-22 18-20 16-17 14-16 14-16 20-22 23-24 17-19 17-20 20-21 15-17 17- 21 21-24 18- 20 16-20 17- 20 14-16 18- 21 22-24 18-21 37-40 34-37 32-34 CO CO © rH CM CO CO CM 1 1 1 1 © © in oo CM CO CM rH July. Cents. 20-22 18-20 16-17 14-16 14-16 20-22 23-24 17-19 17-20 20-21 15-17 17- 21 21-24 18- 20 16-20 17- 20 14-16 18- 21 22-24 18 21 i 37-40 1 34-37 | 32-34 | 26-28 30-33 j 25-30 18-21 June. Cents. 21-23 19-20 16-17 15-16 15-17 20-22 23-25 18-20 17-20 20-22 15-18 18-22 21-24 18-20 16-20 18-20 14-16 18-22 22-24 18-22 38-42 36-38 32-35 28-30 30-33 27-30 16-20 May. Cents. 21-23 20-21 17-18 15-16 15-17 CM CM CM CM CM rH 1 1 1 1 1 1 O CO CO t— O m CM CM rH rH CM rH 18-22 21-24 18-22 16-20 © © CM CM CM rH CM CM CM CO HH CO CM CO rH rH rH CM rH 38-42 36-38 32-35 28-30 32-35 28-32 20-22 April. 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Note. — Prior to 1864 manufactures of wool were not stated separately, but were included under the head of " wearing apparel." Year ending- September 30— 1821 1822 1823 1824 1825 1826 1827 1828 1829 1830 1831 1832 1833 1834 1835 1836 1837 1838 1839 1840 1841 1842 June 30— 1843 (9 months) . 1844 1845 1846 1847 1848 1849 1850 1851 1852 1853 1854 1855... 1856 1857 1S58 .1859 -I860 £861 £862 11863 1864. 1865 1866 1867 1868 1869 , 1870 Unmanufactured wool. Pounds. Dollars. 668, 386 378, 440 781, 102 159, 925 35, 898 55, 550 216, 472 114, 2C8 88, 886 145 ; 115 50,202 884, 807 1, 706, 536 1, 055, 928 847, 301 1,153, 388 355, 722 155, 482 466, 182 973, 075 307, 418 558, 435 444, 387 152, 89.2 a Not 203, 996 89, 460 57, 497 81,015 22, 778 14, 308 26, 567 33, 895 27, 802 27, 455 19, 007 211, 861 355, 563 389, 512 237, 846 296, 225 178, 434 66, 358 254, 721 264, 398 130, 857 191, 119 152, 443 54, 928 stated. Manufac- tures of wool. Dollars. Sheep. 93, 454 151, 789 139, 462 94, 698 206, 879 163, 438 124, 159 Number. 11,117 6, 368 6,880 7,421 9, 681 8,695 8,745 5, 545 6, 846 15, 460 8, 262 12, 260 11,821 16, 654 19, 145 6, 342 3,460 6, 698 6, 084 14, 558 14, 639 19, 557 13, 609 12, 980 6, 464 9, 254 10, 533 6, 231 4, 195 3, 945 4, 357 2,968 3,669 2,642 4,235 3, 520 4. 373 (a) («) (a) (a) (a) (a) 9, 301 15, 182 12, 478 7,882 17, 902 (a) 39, 570 \ 86 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Exports of Domestic Wool, Manufactures of Wool, and Sheep — Continued. Tear ending — x Unmanufactured wool. Manufac- tures of wool. Sheep. •Tutip 30 Pounds. Dollars. Dollars. Number. Dollars. 1871 25, 195 8,762 9QQ ACiK Zoo, 4UD 45, 465 86, 888 1872 140, 515 36, 434 91 9 Ri\Q 35, 218 79, 592 1873 75, 129 17, 624 9nn 8Q7 66, 717 107, 698 1874 319, 600 72, 169 1 94 OQQ 124, 248 159, 735 187b 178, 034 62, 754 154 401 124, 416 183, 898 1876 104, 768 13, 845 QQA 38Q t>oo, ooy 110, 312 171, 101 1877 79, 599 26, 446 9Q1 837 179, 017 234, 480 1878 347, 854 93. 358 448 984 183, 995 333, 499 1879 60, 784 17, 644 oitu, i oo 215, 680 1, 082, 938 1880 191, 551 71, 987 216 576 209, 137 892, 647 1 GG1 71, 455 19,217 331 083 OOJ, uoo 179, 919 762, 932 1 QQ9 116, 179 37, 327 108 1 04. 139, 676 603, 778 188'i 64, 474 22, 114 3fifi 914. OUU, 6±t 337, 251 1, 154, 856 1884 10, 393 3, 073 704 108 273, 874 850, 146 1 CQ^ 88, 006 16, 739 77^ Qfi9 i . Class III— Carpet (a) i valued 12 cents or less over 12 cents scoured Class I— Clothing (a) : valued 32 cents or less per pound exceeding 32 cents washed scoured Class II— Combing (a) : valuell 32 cents or less per pound exceeding 32 cents scoured Class III— Carpet (a) : valued 12 cents or less per pound over 12 cents scoured Class I— Clothing (a) : valued 30 cents or less per pound over 30 cents washed scoured Class II— Combing (a) : valued 30 cents or less per pound over 30 cents scoured Class III— Carpet {a) : valued 12 cents or less per pound over 12 cents scoured . Class I : 376. Class one, that is to say, Merino, mestiza, metz, or metis wools, or other wools of Merino blood, im- mediate or remote, Down clothing wools, and wools of like character with any of the preceding, including such as have been heretofore usually imported into the United States from Buenos Ay res, New Zealand, Australia, Cape of Good Hope, Russia, Great Brit- ain, Canada, and elsewhere, and also including all wools not hereinafter described or designated in classes two and three Washed Scoured a See note on page 90. Duty. 9 cents per pound and 9.9 per cent. 10.8 cents per pound and 9 per cent. 2.7 cents per pound. 5.4 cents per pound, treble duty. 10 cents per pound and 11 per cent. 12 cents per pound and 10 per cent, double duty, treble duty* 10 cents per pound and 11 per cent. 12 cents per pound and 10 pc cent, treble duty. 3 cents per pound. 6 cents per pound, treble duty. 10 cents per pound. 12 cents per pound, double duty, treble duty. 10 cents per pound. 12 cents per pound, treble duty. 1\ cents per pound. 5 cents per pound, treble duty. 11 cents per pound, double dut3 r . treble duty. 92 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Raw Wools — Con tinned. Act of — Description. 1890 Class II: 377. Class two, that is to say, Leicester, Cotswold, Lin- colnshire, Down combing wools, Canada long wools, or other like combing wools of English blood, and usually known by the terms herein used, and also hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, and other like animals Scoured Class III: 378. Class three, that is to say, Donskoi, native South American, Cordova, Valparaiso, native Smyrna, Kussian camel's hair, and including all such wools of like character as have been heretofore usually im- ported into the United States from Turkey, Greece, Egypt, Syria, and elsewhere, excepting improved wools hereinafter provided for, value 13 cents or less per pound » Over 13 cents 382. Unwashed wools shall be considered such as shall have been shorn from the sheep without any cleans- ing; that is, in their natural condition. Washed wools shall be considered such as have been washed with water on the sheep's back. Wool washed in any other manner than on the sheep's back shall be considered as scoured wool. 383. The duty upon wool of the sheep or hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, and other like animals which shall be imported in any other than ordinary condi- tion, or which shall be changed in its character or condition for the purpose of evading the duty, or which shall be reduced in value by the admixture of dirt or any other foreign substance, or which has been sorted or increased in value by the rejection of any part of the original fleece, shall be twice the duty to which it would be otherwise subject: Provided, That skirted wools as now imported are hereby ex- cepted. Wools on which a duty is assessed amount- ing to three times or more than that which would be assessed if said wool was imported unwashed, such duty shall not be doubled on account of its being sorted. If any bale or x>ackage of wool or hair specified in this act imported as of any specified class, or claimed by the importer to be dutiable as of any specified class shall contain any wool or hair subject to a higher rate of duty than the class so specified, the whole bale or package shall be subject to the highest rate of duty chargeable on wool of the class subject to such higher rate of duty, and if any bale or package be claimed by the importer to be shoddy, mungo, flocks, wool, hair, or other material of any class specified in this act, and such bale contain any admixture of any one or more of said materials, or of any other material, the whole bale or package shall be subject to duty at the highest rate imposed upon any article in said bale or package. Duty. 12 cents per pound, treble duty. 32 per cent. 50 per cent. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 93 Raw Wools — Continued. Act of— Description. Duly. 1861 Sheep skins, raw or unmanufactured, with the wool on, 15 per cent. 20 per cent. 30 per cent. 27 per cent. 30 per cent. 1S64 do 18G7 do 1872 do 1875 . . . do 1883 Wool on the skin shall pay the same rate of duty as that not on the skin. do 1800 MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Articles, wool, made by hand do do Aubusson. See Carpets. Axminster. See Carpets. Balmorals : Balmoral skirts and skirtings, and goods of similar de- scription, or used for like purposes, composed wholly or in part of wool, worsted, the hair of the alpaca, goat, or other like animals, made up or manufactured, except knit goods .do- Value not exceeding 40 cents per pound Above 40 and not above 60 cents per pound Above 60 and not exceeding 80 cents per pound. Over 80 cents per pound Value not exceeding 40 cents per pound Above 40 and not above 60 cents per pound Above 60 and not above 80 cents per pound Above 80 cents per pound Value not exceeding 40 cents per pound Above 40 and not exceeding 61) cents per pound . Above 60 and not exceeding 80 cents per pound. Above 80 cents per pound Value not exceeding 30 cents per pound Above 30 and not exceeding 40 cents per pound. Above 40 and not exceeding 60 cents per pound. 40 per cent. 30 per cent. 30 per cent. 18 cents per pound and 30 per cent. 24 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 20 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 30 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 40 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 50 cents per pound and 35 pe r cent. 18 cents per pound and 31* 5 per cent. 27 cents per pound and 31*5 per cent. 36 cents per pound and 315 per cent. 45 cents per pound and 31-5 per cent. 20 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 30 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 40 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 50 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 10 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 12 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 18 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 94 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Manufacturers of Wool — Continued. 1864. 1867. Description. Balmorals— Continued. Above 60 and not exceeding 80 cents per pound. Above 80 cents per pound. Barrel buttons. See Webbings. Bedsides. See Carpets. Belts or felts, endless, for paper or printing machines — do do .do., .do., .do . .do . (See Felts.) Webbings. Bindings. See Webbings and Knit goods. Blankets * do Valued at not above 75 cents each All other (a) Valued at not above 75 cents each, not beyond 72 by 52 inches, nor less than 45 by 60 inches All other Goat's hair or mohair All do Valued at not exceeding 28 cents per pound Duty. Exceeding 28 and not exceeding 40 cents per pound . Exceeding 40 cents per pound Valued not exceeding 28 cents per pound Exceeding 28 and not exceeding 40 cents per pound . Exceeding 40 cents per pound Value not exceeding 28 cents per pound Exceeding 28 and not exceeding 40 cents per pound. . Exceeding 40 cents per pound Valued at not exceeding 40 cents per pound. Above 40 and not exceeding 60 cents per pound a See note on p. 90, 24 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent. 25 per cent. 30 per cent. 20 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 20 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 18 cents per pound and 315 per cent. 20 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 20 cents per pound and 30 per cent. 25 per cent. 35 per cent. 5 per cent. 25 per cent. 15 per cent. 25 per cent. 2C per cent. 20 per cent. 15 per cent. 6 cents per pound and 10 per cent. 6 cents per pound and 25 per cent. 12 cents per pound and 20 per cent. 6 cents per pound and 15 per cent. 6 cents per pound and 30 per cent. 0 12 cents per pound and 25 per cent. 12 cents per pound and 20 per cent. 24 cents per pound and 25 per cent. 24 cents per pound and 30 per cent. 20 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 30 cents per pound and 35 per cent. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Manufactures of Wool — Continued. 95 Description. Blankets — Continued. Above 60 and not exceeding 80 cents per pound Above 80 cents per pound Valued not exceeding 40 cents per pound Above 40 and not exceeding 60 Above 60 and not exceeding 80 Above 80 cents Valued not exceeding 40 cents per pound Above 40 and not exceeding 60 Above 60 and not exceeding 80 Abo ve 80 cents Valued not exceeding 30 cents per pound Above 30 and not exceeding 40 Above 40 and not exceeding CO Above 60 and not exceeding 80 Above 80 cents Valued not exceeding 30 cents per pound Above 30 and not exceeding 40 Above 40 and not exceeding 50 Above 50 393. On blankets, hats of wool, and flannels for under- wear composed wholly or in part of wool, the hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, or other animals, valued at not more than thirty cents per pound, the duty per pound shall be the same as the duty imposed by this act on one pound and one-half of unwashed wool of the first class, and in addition thereto thirty per centum ad valorem; valued at more than thirty and not more than forty cents per pound, the duty per pound shall be twice the duty imposed by this act on a poiind of unwashed wool of the first class ; valued at more than forty cents and not more than fifty cents per pound, the duty per pound shall be three times the duty imposed by this act on pound of unwashed wool of the first class ; and in addition thereto upon Duty. 40 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 50 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 18 cents per pound and 31.5 per cent. 27 cents per pound and 31.5 per cent. 36 cents per pound and 31.5 per cent. 45 cents per pound and 31.5 per cent. 20 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 30 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 40 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 50 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 10 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 12 cent s per pound and 35 per cent. 18 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 24 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent. 16.V cents per pound and 30 per cent. 22 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 33 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 384 cents per pound and 40 per cent. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Manufactures of Wool— Continued. Act of— Description. Blankets— Continued. 393— Continued, all the above -named articles thirty-five per centum ad valorem. On blankets and hats of wool composed wholly or in part of wool, the hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, or other animal, valued at more than fifty cents per pound, the duty per pound shall be three and a half times the duty imposed by this act on a pound of unwashed wool of the first class, and in addition thereto forty per centum ad valorem. Flannels com- posed wholly or in part of wool, the hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, or other animals, valued at above fifty cents per pound shall be classified and pay the same duty as women's and children's dress goods, coat lin- ings, Italian cloths, and goods of similar character and description provided by this act. Braces. See Webbings. Braids. See Webbings. Bunting do do do Duty. .do. .do. .do. .do. Buttons. See Webbings. Caps. See Knit goods. Carpets and carpeting . . do .do . .do . .do . .do . .do . .do . .do do Carpets of wool, flax, or cotton, or parts of either, or other material not specially enumerated or provided for. do .do . .do . .do . .do . .do . .do . .do . 30 per cent. 35 per cent. 50 per cent. 20 cents per square yard and 35 per cent. 18 cents per square yard and 35 per cent. 20 cents per square yard and 35 per cent. 10 cents per square yard and 35 per cent. 12 cents per square yard and 50 per cent. 7£ per cent. 10 per cent. 15 per cent. 17J per cent. 35 per cent. 20 cents per square yard. 32 cents per square yard. 25 per cent. .')0 per cent. 24 per cent. 20 cents per square yard. 30 per cent. 30 per cent. 35 per cent. 40 per cent. 40 per cent. 36 per cent. 40 per cent. 40 per cent. a See note on p. 90. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Manufactures of Wool — Continued. 97 Description. Cabpets of wool, flax, or cotton, or parts of either, or other material not specially enumerated or provided for. Kugs hearth do dO : do AUBUSSON - do do Valued at $1.25 or under per square yard do do Valued at over $1.25 per square yard do .do .do .do .do .do .do AXMINSTER : Valued at $1.25 or under per square yard . do do Valued at over $1.25 per square yard do .do .do .do .do .do .do Baizes do do do Bookings do do do Printed, colored, or otherwise , do do .do. H. Mis. 94- Duty. 50 per cent. 40 per cent. 30 per cent. 24 per cent. 30 per cent. 35 per cent. 65 cents per square yard. 30 per cent. 24 per cent. 40 cents per square yard. 45 cents per square yard. 70 cents per square yard. 50 cents per square yard. 55 cents per square yard. 80 cents per square yard. 50 per cent. 45 per cent. 50 per cent. 45 cents per square yard and 30 per cent. 60 cents per square yard and 40 per cent. 40 cents per square yard. 45 cents per square yard. 70 cents per square yard. 50 cents per square yard. 55 cents per square yard. 80 cents per square yard. 50 per cent. 45 per cent. 50 per cent. 45 cents per square yard and 30 per cent. 60 cents per square yard and 40 per cent. 16 cents per square yard. 14 cents per square yard. 25 per cent. 19 per cent. 16 cents per square yard. 14 cents per square yard. 25 per cent. 19 per cent. 20 cents per square yard. 25 cents per square yard. 25 cents per square yard and 35 per cent. 22-5 cents per square yard and 31*5 per cent. 98 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Manufactures of Wool — Continued. Act of— 1875. 1883. 1824. 1828. 1832. 1842. 1846. 1857. 3861. 1862. 1864. 1861. 1862. 1861. 1862. 1864. 1867. 1872. 1875. 1867. 1872. 1875. 1883. 1890. 1861. 1862. 1864. 1867. 1872. 1875. 1883. 1890. 1867., Description. Carpets of wool, flax, orcottoo, or parts of either, or other material not specially enumerated or provided for — Continued. Bookings— Continued. Printed, colored, or otherwise .do . Brussels do do do do do , "Wrought by J acquard machine — Valued at $1.25 or under per square yard . do do Valued at over $1.25 per square yard do Printed on the warp or otherwise do do do .do. .do. Other . .do. .do. .do. .do. Tapestry, printed on the warp or otherwise. do do do .do . .do . .do . .do . Chenille . Duty. 25 cents per square yard and 35 per cent. 15 cents per square yard and 30 per cent. 50 cents per square yard. 70 cents per square yard. 63 cents per square yard. 55 cents per square yard. 30 per cent. 24 percent. 40 cents per square yard. 45 cents per square yard. 70 cents per square yard. 50 cents per square yard. 55 cents per square yard. 30 cents per square yard. 33 cents per square yard. 50 cents per square yard. 20 cents per square yard and 35 per cent. 25*2 cents per square yard and 31*5 per cent. 28 cents per square yard and 35 per cent. 44 cents per square yard and 44 per cent. 39-6 cents per square yard and 31-5 per cent. 44 cents per square yard and 35 per cent. 30 cents per square yard and 30 per cent. 44 cents per square yard and 40 per cent. 30 cents per square yard. 33 cents per square yard. 50 cents per square yard. 28 cents per square yard and 35 per cent. 25-2 cents per square yard and 31*5 per cent. 28 cents per square yard and 35 per cent. 20 cents per square yard and 30 per cent. 28 cents per square yard anA 40 per cent, 50 per cent, 45 per cenk WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Manufactures of Wool — Continued. 99 Act of- Description. Duty. 1875.. 1883.. 1890.. 1861. 1864. 1867. 1872. 1875. 1883. 1890. 1890. 1824. 1828. 1832. 1842. 1846. 1857. 1864. 1867. Caepets of wool, flax, or cotton, or parts of either, or other materials not specially enumerated or provided for— Continued. Chenille • do .do . Druggets, printed, colored, or otherwise . do do .do . .do . .do . .do . Felt, figured or plain. Ingrain do do do do do Ingrain, two-ply. do 1872. 1875. 1883. 1890. 1832. 1842. 1861. 1862. 1864. 1867. 1872. 1875. 1883. 1890. .do . .do . .do . .do . Ingrain, treble. do do do do do .do . .do . .do . 4o. 50 per cent. 45 cents per square yard and 30 per cent. 60 cents per square yard and 40 per cent. 20 cents per square yard. 25 cents per square yard. 25 cents per square yard and 35 per cent. 22*5 cents per square yard and 31*5 per cent. 25 cents per square yard and 35 per cent. 15 cents per square yard and 30 per cent. 22 cents per square yard and 40 per cent. 11 cents per square yard and 40 per cent. 25 cents per square yard. 40 cents per square yard. 35 cents per square yard. 30 cents per square yard. 30 per cent. 24 per cent. 35 cents per square yard. 12 cents per square yard and 35 per cent. 10.8 cents per square yard 5 1/3 per cent. 12 cents per square yard and 35 per cent. 8 cents per square yard and 30 per cent. 14 cents per square yard and 40 per cent. 63 cents per square yard. 65 cents per square yard. 25 cents per square yard. 28 cents per square yard. 40 cents per square yard. 17 cents per square yard and 35 per cent. 15*3 cents per square yard and 31-5 per cent. 17 cents per square yard and 35 per cent. 12 cents per square yard and 30 per cent. 19 cents per square yard and 40 per cent* 100 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Manufactures of Wool — Continued. Description. Carpets of wool, flax, or cotton, or parts of either, or other material not specially enumerated or provided for— Continued. Mats and floor cloths do Mats, screens, hassocks, and rugs not exclusively of vegetable material do do do :.. do Mats, bedsides, art squares, and other portions of car- pets or carpeting made wholly or in part of wool, and not specially provided for in this act, shall be subjected to the rate of duty herein imposed on carpets or car- petings of like character or description. Medallion, or Whole: Valued at $1.25 or under per square yard do do Valued at over $1.25 per square yard do .do . .do . .do . .do . .do . do Moquette Rugs, Oriental, Berlin, and similar. Saxony .......do do Valued at $1.25 or under, per square yard . do do Valued at over $1.25 per square yard do do do .do . .do . .do . .do. Duty. 10 per cent. 15 per cent. 45 per cent. Do. 40*5 per cent. 45 per cent. 40 per cent. 40 cents per square yard. 45 cents per square yard. 70 cents per square yard. 50 cents per square yard. 55 cents per square yard. 80 cents per square yard. 50 per cent. 45 per cent. 50 per cent. 45 cents per square yard and 30 per cent. 60 cents per square yard and 40 per cent. 60 cents per square yard and 40 per cent. 60 cents per square yard and 40 per cent. 65 cents per square yard. 30 per cent. 24 per cent. 40 cents per square yard. 45 cents per square yard. 70 cents per square yard. 50 cents per square yard. 55 cents per square yard. 80 cents per square yard. 70 cents per square yard and 35 per cent. 63 cents per square yard and 31*5 per oent. 70 cents per square yard and 35 per cent. 45 cents per square yard and 30 per cent. 60 cents per square yard and 40 per cent. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Manufactures of Wool — Continued. 101 Description. Carpets of wool, flax, or cotton, or parts of either, or other material not specially enumerated or provided for — Continued. Turkey do 7. do : do do Velvet, patent, and tapestry: Valued at $1.25 or under, per square yard do do Valued at over $1.25 per square yard do do Printed on the warp or otherwise do .do . -do . .do . .do . Velvet, tournay: Valued at $1.25 or under per square yard . do do Valued at over $1.25 per square yard do do do -do. .do. .do. .do. Venetian. do.. -do.. do.. do.. do .. do .. do .. Duty. .do. 50 cents per square yard. 70 cents per square yard. 55 cents per square yard. 30 per cent. 24 per cent. 40 cents per square 45 cents per square 70 cents per square 50 ceots per square 55 cents per square 80 cents per square 50 cents per square 40 cents per square 35 per cent. 36 cents per square 31*5 per cent. 40 cents per square 35 per cent. 25 cents per square 30 per cent. 40 cents per square 40 per cent. yard, yard, yard, yard, yard, yard, yard, yard and yard and yard and yard and yard and 40 cents per square yard. 45 cents per square yard. 70 cents per square yard. 50 cents per square yard. 55 cents per square yard. 80 cents per square yard. 70 cents per square yard and 35 per cent. 63 cents per square yard and 31-5 per cent. 70 cents per square yard and 35 per cent. 45 cents per square yard and 30 per cent. 60 cents per square yard and 40 per cent. 25 cents per square yard. 40 cents per square yard. 35 cents per square yard. 30 cents per square yard. 30 per cent. 24 per cent. 35 cents per square yard. 12 cents per square yard and 35 per cent. 10*8 cents per square yard and 31*5 per cent. 102 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Manufacture of Wools — Continued. Act of— Description. Duty. 1875. 1883. 1861. 1862. 1864. 1867. 1872.. 1875.. 1883.. 1890.. 1824.. 1828.. 1832.. 1842.. 1846.. 1857.. 1861.. 1862.. 1864.. 1861.. 1862.. 1864.. 1867.. 1872.. 1875.. 1883.. 1890.. 1890.. 1864.. 1867.. Carpets of wool, flax, or cotton, or parts of either, or other material not specially enumerated or provided for— Continued. Venetian .do. Venetian, three-ply and worsted chain. do do do .do . .do . .do . .do . Wilton do do do do do Valued at $1.25 or under per square yard. do do Valued at over $1.25 per square yard do do do do do.., do .. do .. "Wool, dutch. Tarn 1872. 1875. 1883. .do. .do . .do . .do. 12 cents per square yard and 35 per cent. 8 cents per square yard and 30 per cent. 25 cents per square yard. 28 cents per square yard. 40 cents per square yard. 17 cents per square yard and 35 per cent. 15-3 cents per square yard and 31*5 per cent. 1 7 cents per square yard and 35 per cent. 12 cents per square yard and 30 per cent. 19 cents per square yard and 40 per cent. 50 cents per square yard. 70 cents per square yard. 63 cents per square yard. 65 cents per square yard. 30 per cent. 24 per cent. 40 cents per square yard. 45 cents per square yard. 70 cents per square yard. 50 cents per square yard. 55 cents per square yard. 80 cents per square yard. 70 cents per square yard and 35 per cent. 63 cents per square yard and 31*5 per cent. 70 cents per square yard and 35 per cent. 45 cents per square yard and 30 per cent. 60 cents per square yard and 40 per cent. 14 cents per square yard and 40 per cent. 35 cents per square yard. 12 cents per square yard and 35 per cent. 18 8 cents per square yard and 31 per cent. 12 cents per square yard and 35 per cent. 8 cents per square yard and 30 per cent. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Manufactures of Wool — Continued. 103 Act of— 1883. 1890. 1832. 1833. 1861. 1862. 1864. 1867. 1872. 1875. 1842... 1846... 1857... 1861... 1862... 1789... 1790... 1794... 1804... 1812... 1816... 1828... 1832 a. 1842... 1846... 1857. 1861. 1862. 1864. 1867. Description. Cloaks, dolmans, jackets, talmas, ulsters, or other outside garments for ladies and children's apparel, and goods of similar description, or used for like purposes .do. Cloth, milled and fulled cloth, known by the name of plain kerseys, or Kendal cottons, of which wool shall be the only material, the value whereof shall" not exceed 35 cents per square yard do Cloth, "Woolen, n. o. p .do. .do. .do. .do. .do. Clothing, embroidered : Gold, etc Or tamboured do do do Clothing, ready-made . . . do .do . .do . .do . do . .do . .do . .do . Clothing, ready-made, and wearing apparel of every de- scription, of whatever material composed, made up or manufactured wholly or in part by the tailor, seamstress, or manufacturer do do .do . .do . Clothing, ready-made, and wearing apparel of every de- scription, not specially enumerated or provided for, and balmoral skirts and skirting and goods of similar description, or used for like purposes Duty. 45 cents per pound and 40 per cent. 49 £ cents per pound and 60 per cent. 5 per cent. 50 per cent. 12 cents per pound and 25 per cent. 18 cents per pound and 30 per cent. 24 cents per pound and 40 per cent. 50 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 45 cents per pound and 31.5 per cent. 50 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 50 per cent. 30 per cent. 24 per cent. 30 per cent. 35 percent. 7£ per cent. Do. 15 per cent. 17£ per cent. 35 per cent. 30 per cent. 50 per cent. Do. Do. 30 per cent. 24 per cent. 12 cents per pound and 25 per cent. 18 cents per pound and 30 per cent. 24 cents per pound and 40 per cent. 50 cents per pound and 40 per cent. a See note on p. 90. 104 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Manufactukes of Wool— Continued. Description. Clothing, ready-made, and wearing apparel of every de- scription, not specially enumerated or provided for, and balmoral skirts and skirting and goods of similar description, or used for like purposes -do . .do . .do . Cords. See Webbings. Covers. See Carpets. ■ Dress Goods, women's and children's, coat linings, Ital- ian cloths, and goods of like description : Delaines, cashmere delaines, muslin delaines, barege delaines, and goods of similar description — Gray or un colored Valued not exceeding 40 cents per square yard Valued not over 30 cents per square yard. Stained, colored, or printed — Valued not exceeding 40 cents per square yard Valued exceeding 40 cents per square yard . Valued not over 30 cents per square yard Valued over 30 cents per square yard . Composed in part of wool, worsted, the hair of the alpaca, goat, or other animals — Valued at not exceeding 20 cents per square yard . .do . .do . -do . Valued at above 20 cents per square yard „.-do do do Valued at not exceeding 15 cents per square yard Valued at above 15 cents per square yard. All weighing over 8 ounces per square yard Duty. 45 cents per pound and 36 per cent. 50 cents per pound and 40 per cent. 40 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 49£ cents per pound and 60 per cent. 25 per cent. 2 cents per square yard and 25 per cent. 4 cents per square yard and 25 per cent. 2 cents per square yard and 30 per cent. 35 per cent. 4 cento per squaie yard and 30 per cent. 6 cents per square yard and 35 per cent. 6 cents per square yard and 35 per cent. 5. 4 cents per square yard and 31*5 per cent. 6 cents per square yard and 35 per cent. 5 cents per square yard and 35 per cent. 8 cents per square yard and 40 per cent. 7.2 cents per square yard and 35-5 per cent. 8 cents per square yard and 40 per cent. 7 cents per square yard and 40 per cent. 7 cents per square yard and 40 per cent. 8 cents per square yard and 50 per cent. 50 cents per pound and 35 per cent. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Manufactures of Wool — Contiuued. 105 Act of- Description. Dress Goods, women's and children's coat linings, Italian cloths, and goods of like description — Continued. Delaines, cashmere delaines, muslin delaines, barege delaines, and goods of similar description— Continued. All weighing over 8 ounces per square yard .do . .do . .do . Composed wholly of wool, worsted, the hair of the alpaca, goat, or other animals, or a mixture of them, weighing 4 ounces or less per square yard. .do . "Weighing over 4 ounces per square yard. do Flannels do do do Valued at 30 cents or less per square yard. do do Valued at above 30 cents per square yard. ....do ....do All colored, printed, or part silk do do Valued at not exceeding 40 cents per pound . .do . .do . Valued at above 40 and not exceeding 60 cents per pound. ....do .do . .do. Valued at above 60 and not exceeding 80 cents per pound. .-.-do Duty. 45 cents per pound and 31*5 per cent. 50 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 35 cents- per pound and 40 per cent. 44 cents per pound and 50 per cent. 9 cents per square yard and 40 per cent. 12 cents per square yard and 50 per cent. 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent. 44 cents per pound and 50 per cent. 16 cents per square yard. 14 cents per square yard. 25 per cent. 19 per cent. 25 per cent. 30 per cent. 24 cents per pound and 30 per cent. 30 per cent. 35 per cent. 24 cents per pound and 25 per cent. 30 per cent. 35 per cent. 50 per cent. 20 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 18 cents per pound and 31-5 per cent. 20 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 30 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 27 cents per pound and 31*5 per cent. 30 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 18 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 40 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 36 cents per pound and 31-5 per cent. 106 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Manufactures of Wool — Contioued. Description. Duty. Flannels— Continued . All colored, printed, or part silk — Continued. Valued at above 60 and not exceeding 80 cents per pound. .do . Valued at above 80 cents per pound . ....do ....do .do . Valued at not exceeding 30 cents per pound . ...do , Valued at above 30 and not exceeding 40 cents per pound. do Valued at above 40 and not exceeding 50 cents per pound. Valued at above 50 cents per pound " shall be classi- fied and pay the same duty as women's and children's dress goods, coat linings, Italian cloths, and goods of similar character and description provided by this act." Flocks. See Rags. Fringes. See Laces and Webbings. Garneted waste. See Rags. Galloons. See Webbings. Gimps. See Webbings. Gloves. See Knit goods. Goats hair or mohair, camlets, coatings, and all other manufactures of do do do do Gorings. See Webbings. Hassocks. See Carpets. Hats : Wool or mixture of do .do . .do . .do . .do . .do . .do . Valued at not exceeding 40 cents per pound. 40 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 24 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 50 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 45 cents per pound and 35*5 per cent. 50 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent. 10 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 16£ cents per pound and 30 per cent. 12 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 22 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 33 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 20 per cent. 25 per cent. 19 per cent. 30 per cent. 35 per cent. 7 1 per cent. 30 per cent. Do. 20 per cent. 15 per cent. 20 per cent. 30 per cent. 24 cents per. pound and 35 per cent. 20 cents per pound and 35 per cent. a See note on page 90. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Manufactures of Wool— Continued. 107 Description. Duty. Hats: Wool or mixture of— Continued. Valued at uot exceeding 40 cents per pound. .do . Valued at not exceeding 30 cents per pound do Valued at above 30 and not exceeding 40 cents per pound do Valuecl at above 40 and not exceeding 60 cents per pound . do do do do Valued at above 60 and not exceeding 80 cents per pound. do do do Valued at above 50 cents per pound Valued at above 80 cents per pound do do do Hats ,wool or felt or mixture of. do do do do Hats, wool or felt bodies do do do do Head nets. See Webbings. Hosiery. See Knit goods, Knit goods, gloves, mittens 18 cents per pound and 31-5 per cent. 20 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 10 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 16£ cents per pound and 30 per cent. 12 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 22 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 30 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 27 cents per pound and 31*5 per cent, 30 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 18 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 33 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 40 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 36 cents per pound and 31*5 per cent. 40 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 24 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 38i cents per pound and 40 per cent. 50 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 45 cents per pound and 31-5 per cent. 50 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent. 7£ per cent, 10 per cent. 15 per cent. 17£ per cent. 35 per cent. 18 cents each. 20 per cent. 15 per cent. 20 per cent. 25 per cent. 10 per cent. 108 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Manufactures of Wool — Continued. Description. Knit Goods, gloves, mittens do .do Hits, gloves, and bindings do Caps, gloves, binding, mits, socks, stockings, wove shirts and drawers, and all similar articles made on frames. Caps, gloves, leggings, mits, socks, stockings, wove shirts and drawers, and all similar articles. do do do Stockings do do do : do Hosiery, woolen or worsted do Shirts, drawers, and hosiery Valued at not exceeding 40 cents per pound do do Valued at above 40 and not exceeding 60 cents per pound. do .do . .do . Valued at above 60 and not exceeding 80 cents per pound. do .do . .do . Valued at above 80 cents per pound do do do Valued at not exceeding 30 cents per pound. a See note on p. 90. Duty. 15 per cent. 17J per cent. 35 per cent. Do. 25 per cent. 30 per cent. Do. 24 per cent. 30 per cent. 35 per cent. 10 per cent. 15 per cent. 17^ percent. 35 per cent. 20 per cent. 35 per cent. 25 per cent. 20 cents per pound and 30 per cent. 20 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 18 cents per pound and 31*5 per cent. 20 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 30 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 27 cents per pound and 31-5 per cent. 30 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 18 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 40 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 36 cents per pound and 31*5 per cent. 40 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 24 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 50 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 40 cents per pound and 31*5 per cent. 50 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent. 10 cents per pound and 35 per cent. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Manufactures of Wool — Glontinued. 109 Description. Knit Goods, gloves, mittens— Continued. Knit fabrics and all fabrics made on knitting-machines or frames, valued at not more than 30 cents per pound. Valued at above 30 and not exceeding 40 cents per pound. Valued at more than 30 and not more than 40 cents per pound. Valued at above 40 cents per pound Laces, fringes, tassels, and trimmings commonly used by upholsterers and coach-makers and saddlers. do .do . .do . -do . .do . .do . Lastings, mohair cloth cut in strips or patterns of the size and shape for shoes, boots, bootees, or buttons exclusive- ly. (From and after 18G7, buttons exclusively.) do do do do do do do Leggins. See Knit goods. Listings do do do Manufactures, woolen, n. e. s do until June 30, 1825 Manufactures, woolen, n. e. s do do do do do .do . .do. .do . .do . -do . Duty. 33 cents per pound and 40 per cent. 12 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 38£ cents per pound and 40 per cent. 44 cents per pound and 50 per cent. 15 per cent. Do. \1\ per cent. 35 per cent. Do. Do. Do. 5 per cent. 4 per cent. Free. 10 per cent. Do. 9 per cent. 10 per cent. Do. 20 per cent. 15 per cent. 20 per cent. 10 per cent. 25 per cent. 20 per cent. 30 per cent. 33£ per cent. 50 per cent. 40 per cent. 30 per cent. 24 per cent. 12 cents per pound and 25 per cent. 18 cents per pound and 30 per cent. 24 cents per pound and 40 per cent. 50 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 45 cents per pound and 31*5 per cent. 50 cents per pound and 35 per cent. a See note on p. 90, 110 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Manufactures of Wool — Continued. Description. Manufactures, woolen, n. e. s.— Continued. Valued at not exceeding 33 J cents per square yard. . . . , do Valued at not exceeding 50 cents per square yard [After June 30, 1829] Valued exceeding 50 cents and not exceeding $1 per square yard. [After June 30, 1829] Valued exceeding $1 and not exceeding $2.50 per square yard. [After June 30, 1829] Valued exceeding $2.50 and not exceeding $4 per square yard. [After June 30, 1829] , Valued exceeding $4 per square yard [After June 30, 1829] Valued at $1 per square yard or weighing less than 12 ounces per square yard. Valued over $2 per square yard Valued at not exceeding 80 cents per pound. Valued at above 80 cents per pound Valued at not more than 30 cents per pound. Valued at more than 30 and not more than 40 cents per pound. Valued at above 40 cents per pound Manufactures, n. e. s. : Worsteds ...do do '..do ^o do do Valued at not exceeding 40 cents per pound . Duty. .do . .do . Valued at not exceeding 30 cents per pound . Valued at above 30 and not exceeding 40 cents per pound. Valued at above 40 and not exceeding 60 cents per pound. |f»..lpMM,H..H..M.M. 25 per cent. 14 cents per square yard. 40 per cent. 45 per cent. 40 per cent. 45 per cent. 40 per cent. 45 per cent. 40 per cent. 45 per cent. Do. 50 per cent. 18 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 24 cents per pound and 45 per cent. 35 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent. 33 cents per pound and 40 per cent. 38 cents per pound and 40 per cent. 44 cents per pound and 50 per cent. 10 per cent. 30 per cent. 25 per cent. 19 per cent. 30 per cent. 35 per cent. 50 per cent. 20 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 18 cents per pound and 3] .5 per cent. 20 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 10 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 12 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 30 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 27 cents per pound and 31,5 per cent WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Manufactures of Wool — Continued. 111 Description. Duty. Manufactures, n. e. s.— Continued. Worsteds— Continued. Valued at above 40 and not exceediDg 60 cents per pound. do Valued at above 60 and not exceeding 80 cents per pound. do .do . .do . Valued at above 80 cents per pound . do do do Duty same as on woolen manufactures, n. e. s. Mats. See Carpets. Mittens. See Knit goods. Mohair cloth. See Lastings. Mungo. See Rags. Nets, head. See Webbings. Noils. See Rags. Rags .do . -do . -do . -do . ..do ..do Shoddy, waste do do Shoddy, waste, and flocks . do -do . .do . .do . .do . .do . Noils, shoddy, top waste, slubbing waste, roving waste, ring waste, yarn waste, garueted waste, and all other wastes composed wholly or in part of wool. Rags, mungo and flocks, woolen Ring waste. See Rags. Roving waste. See Rags. Screen^, See Carpets, 0 March 27, 30 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 18 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 40 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 36 cents per pound and 31.5 per cent. 40 cents per pound and 35 per cent. Do. 50 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 45 cents per pound and 31.5 per cent. 50 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent. Free. Free. Free. Free. Free. Free. Free. One-fourth cent per pound. 5 per cent. 4 per cent. 10 per cent. 10 per cent. 3 cents per pound. 12 cents per pound. 10-8 cents per pound. 12 cents per pound. 10 cents per pound. 30 cents per pound. 10 cents per pouncU 112 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Manufactures of Wool — Continued. Description. Shawls : Merino Worsted do Wool or in part of wool. .do. .do . .do . Valued at over $1 per square yard, or weighing less than 12 ounces per square yard. Valued at over $2 per square yard Valued at not exceeding 80 cents per pound . Valued at above 80 cents per pound Valued at not more than 30 cents per pound . Valued at more than 30 and not more than 40 cents a pound. Valued at above 40 cents a pound , Composed wholly or in part of worsted, the hair of the alpaca, goat, or other animals. do Shirts, wove. See Knit goods. Shoddy. See Rags. Silk and worsted : Manufactures — do do Slubbing waste. See Rags. Socks. See Knit goods. . Stockings. See Knit goods. Suspenders. See webbings. Tassels. See Laces and webbings. Top waste. See Rags. Trimmings. See Laces and webbings. Waste. See Rags. Webbing do do .do -do Duty. 50 per cent. 10 per cent. Free. 12 cents per pound and 25 per cent. 18 cents per pound and 30 per cent. 24 cents per pound and 40 per cent. 50 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 18 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 24 cents per pound and 45 per cent. • 35 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent. 33 cents per pound and 40 per cent. 38£ cents per pound and 40 per cent. 44 cents per pound and 50 per cent. 16 cents per pound and 20 per cent. 40 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 10 per cent. Free. 30 per cent. 30 per cent. 35 per ceut. 50 cents per pound and 50 per cent. 45 cents per pound and 45 per cent. 50 cents per pound and 50 per cent. a See note on p. 90. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Manufactures of Wool — Continued. 113 Description. Webbings, gorings, suspenders, braces, beltings, bindings, braids, galloons, fringes, gimps, cords, cords and tassels, dress trimmings, head nets, buttons or barrel buttons, or buttons of other forms for tassels or ornaments, wrought by hand or braided by machinery, made of wool, worsted, the hair of the alpaca, goat, or other animals, or of which wool, worsted, the hair of the alpaca, goat, or other animals is a component material. do Worsted Stuff goods. , do do Yarns : Wool Worsted Woolen and worsted do do Yalue less than 50 cents a pound, not exceeding No. 14 do do Valueless than 50 cents a pound, exceeding No. 14. . . do Valued over 50 cents and not over $1 per pound .do .do . Value over $1 do ? Valued at not exceeding 40 cents per poundj. do " .do. Valued at above 40 and not exceeding 60 cents per pounds. do .da. .do. Valued at above 60 and not exceeding 80 cents per pound. do .do . Duty. 30 cents per pound and 50 per cent. 60 cents per pound and 60 per cent. 25 per cent. 10 per cent. Free. 4 cents per pound and 50 per cent. 20 per cent. 30 per cent. 25 per cent. 19 per cent. 25 per cent. 30 per cent. 16 cents per pound and 25 per cent. 30 per cent. 35 per cent. 12 cents per pound and 15 per cent. 12 cents per pound and 20 per cent. 20 cents per pound and 25 per cent. 12 cents per pound and 25 per cent. 24 cents per pound and 30 per cent. 20 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 18 cents per pound and 31*5 per cent. 20 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 30 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 27 cents per pound and 31*5 per cent. 30 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 18 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 40 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 36 cents per pound and 31*5 per cent. 40 cents per pound and 35 per cent. H- Mis. 94- 114 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Manufactures of Wool — Continued. Act of- Description. Duty. 1883. 18G7. 1872. 1875. 1883. 1883. 1890. 1883. 1800. 1890. Yarns— Con tinu 0u . Valued at above 60 and not exceeding 80 cents per pound. Valued at above 80 cents per pounds .do. .do. .do. Valued at not exceeding 30 cents per pound . ....do Valued at above 30 and not exceeding 40 cents per pound. ...do Valued at more than 40 cents per pound . Tarn waste. See Rags. 24 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 50 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 45 cents per pound and 31 5 per cent. 50 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent. 10 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 27£ cents per pound and 35 per cent. 12 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 33 cents per pound and 35 per cent. 38J cents per pound and 40 per cent. MILLIONS OF POUNDS. 20 40 60 SO 100 130 140 160 ISO 200 2 2 0 240 260 280 300 320 340 360 380 400 420 4 4 0 460 O 240 260 280 300 320 340 360 380 400 480 4 4 0 460 \ <*> ^> » ^ <5> K qS Qi CO CD Qd Qo >*t >i H *** * * ^ * £ ^ * s GO 00 JO N H H United States. United Kingdom. France. Germany. SYNOPSIS OF DECISIONS OF THE TREASURY DEPARTMENT UNDER THE TARIFF LAWS OF 1883 AND 1890. WOOL AND WOOLENS. 115 TARIFF ACT OF MARCH 3, 1883. Schedule K.— Wool and Woolens. 352. All wools, hair of the alpaca, goat, and other like animals shall be divided, for the purpose of fixing the duties to he charged thereon, into the three following classes : 353. Class one, clothing wools.— That is to say, merino, mestiza, metz, or metis wools, or other wools of merino blood, immediate or remote, down clothing- wools, and wools of like character with any of the preceding, including such as have been heretofore usually imported into the United States from Buenos Ayres, New Zealand, Australia, Cape of Good Hope, Russia, Great Britain, Canada, and elsewhere, and also including all wools not hereinafter described or designated in classes two and three. 354. Class two, combing wools. — That is to say, Leicester, Cots wold, Lincoln- shire, down combing wools, Canada long wools, or other like combing wools of English blood, and usually known by the terms herein used, and also all hair of the alpaca, goat, and other like animals. 355. Class three, carpet wools and other similar wools. — Such as Donskoi, native South American, Cordova, Valparaiso, native Smyrna, and including all such wools of like character as have been heretofore usually imported into the United States from Turkey, Greece, Egypt, Syria, and elsewhere. 356a. The duty on wools of the first class which shall be imported washed shall be twice the amount of the duty to which they would be subjected if imported un- washed; and the duty on wools of all classes which shall be imported scoured shall be three times the duty to which they would be subjected if imported unwashed. 3565. The duty upon wool of the sheep or hair of the alpaca, goat, and other like animals which shall be imported in any other than ordinary condition, as now and heretofore practiced, or which shall be changed in its character or condition for the purpose of evading the duty, or which shall be reduced in value by the admixture of dirt or any other foreign substance, shall be twice the duty to which it would be otherwise subject. 357a. Wools of the first class the value whereof at the last port or place whence exported to the United States, excluding charges in such port, shall be thirty cents or less per pound, ten cents per pound. 3576. Wools of the same class the value whereof at the last port or place whence exported to the United States, excluding charges in such port, shall exceed thirty cents per pound, twelve cents per pound. 358a. Wools of the second class and all hair of the alpaca, goat, and other like animals, the value whereof at the last port or place whence exported to the United States, excluding charges in such port, shall be thirty cents or less per pound, ten cents per pound. 358&. Wools of the same class the value whereof at the last port or place whence exported to the United States, excluding charges in such port, shall exceed thirty cents per pound, twelve cents per pound. 359a. Wools of the third class the value whereof at the last port or place whence exported to the United States, excluding charges in such port, shall be twelve cents or less per pound, two and a half cents per pound. 117 118 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 359&. Wools of tlie same class the value whereof at the last port or place whence exported to the United States, excluding charges in such port, shall exceed twelve cents per pound, five cents per pound. 360. Wools on the skin, the same rates as other wools, the quantity and value to be ascertained under such rules as the Secretary of the Treasury may prescribe. 361. Woolen rags, shoddy, mungo, waste, and flocks, ten cents per pound. 362. Woolen cloths, woolen shawls, and all manufactures of wool of every descrip- tion made wholly or in part of wool, not specially enumerated or provided for in this act, valued at not exceeding eighty cents per pound, thirty-five cents per pound and thirty-five per centum ad valorem; valued at above eighty cents per pound, thirty-five cents per pound, and in addition thereto forty per centum ad valorem. 363a. Flannels, blankets, hats of wool, knit goods, and all goods made on knit- tiug-frames, balmorals, woolen and worsted yarns, and all manufactures of every description composed wholly or in part of worsted, the hair of the alpaca, goat, or other animals, (except such as are composed in part of wool), not specially enumer- ated or provided for in this act. 363o. Valued at not exceeding thirty cents per pound, ten cents per pound. 363c. Valued at above thirty cents per pound and not exceeding forty cents per pound, twelve cents per pound. 363a\ Valued at above forty cents per pound and not exceeding sixty cents per pound, eighteen cents per pound. 363c. Valued at above sixty cents per pound and not exceeding eighty cents per pound, twenty-four cents per pound. 363/. And in addition thereto, upon all the above-named articles, thirty-five per centum ad valorem. 363//. Valued at above eighty cents per pound, thirty-five cents per pound, and in addition thereto forty per centum ad valorem. 364. Bunting, ten cents per square yard, and in addition thereto thirty-five per centum ad valorem. 365a. Women's and children's dress goods, coat linings, Italian cloths, and goods of like description composed in part of wool, worsted, the hair of the alpaca, goat, or other animals. 365Z>. Valued at not exceeding twenty cents per square yard, five cents per square yard, and in addition thereto thirty-five per centum ad valorem. 365c. Valued at above twenty cents per square yard, seven cents per square yard and forty per centum ad valorem. 365o\ If composed wholly of wool, worsted, the hair of the alpaca, goat, or other animals, or of a mixture of them, nine cents per square yard and forty per centum ad valorem. 365c. But all such goods with selvedges, made wholly or in part of other materials, or with threads of other materials introduced for the purpose of changing the classification, shall be dutiable at nine cents per square yard and forty per centum ad valorem : 365/. Provided, That all such goods weighing over four ounces per square yard shall pay a duty of thirty-five cents per pound and forty per centum ad valorem. 366. Clothing, ready-made, and wearing apparel of every description not specific- ally enumerated or provided for in this act, and balmoral skirts, and skirting, and goods of similar description, or used for like purposes, composed wholly or in part of wool, worsted, the hair of the alpaca, goat, or other animals, made up or manu- factured wholly or in part by the tailor, seamstress, or manufacturer, except knit goods, forty cents per pound, and in addition thereto, thirty-five per centum ad valorem. 367. Cloaks, dolmans, jackets, talmas, ulsters, or other outside garments for ladies' and childrens' apparel and goods of similar description, or used for like purposes, composed wholly or in part of wool, worsted, the hair of the alpaca, goat, or other WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 119 animals, made up or manufactured wholly or in part by the tailor, seamstress, or manufacturer (except knit goods), forty-five cents per pound, and in addition thereto forty per centum ad valorom. 368. Webbings, gorings, suspenders, braces, beltings, bindings, braids, galloons, fringes, gimps, cords, cords and tassels, dress trimmings, head nets, buttons, or barrel buttons, or buttons of other forms for tassels or ornaments, wrought by hand, or braided by machinery, made of wool, worsted, the hair of the alpaca, goat, or other animals, or of which wool, worsted, the hair of the alpaca, goat, or other animals is a component material, thirty cents per pound, and in addition thereto, fifty per centum ad valorem. 369. Aubusson, Axminster, and chenille carpets, and carpets woven whole for rooms, forty-five cents per square yard, and in addition thereto, thirty per centum ad valorem. 370. Saxony, Wilton, and Tournay velvet carpets, forty-five cents per square yard, and in addition thereto, thirty per centum ad valorem. 371. Brussels carpets, thirty cents per square yard, and in addition thereto, thirty per centum ad valorem. 372. Patent velvet and tapestry velvet carpets, printed on the warp or otherwise, twenty-five cents per square yard, and in addition thereto, thirty per centum ad valorem. 373. Tapestry Brussels carpets, printed on the warp or otherwise, twenty cents per square yard, and in addition thereto, thirty per centum ad valorem. 374. Treble ingrain, three-ply, and worsted-chain Venetian carpets, twelve cents per square yard, and in addition thereto, thirty per centum ad valorem. 375. Yarn Venetian, and two-ply ingrain carpets, eight cents per square yard, and in addition thereto, thirty per centum ad valorem. 376. Druggets and bookings, printed, colored, or otherwise, fifteen cents per square yard, and in addition thereto, thirty per centum ad valorem. 377. Hemp or jute carpeting, six cents per square yard. 378a. Carpets and carpetings of wool, flax, or cotton, or parts of either or other material, not otherwise herein specified, forty per centum ad valorem. 378b. And mats, rugs, screens, covers, hassocks, bedsides, and other portions of carpets or carpetings, shall be subjected to the rate of duty herein imposed on car- pets or carpeting of like character or description. 378c. And the duty on all other mats not exclusively of vegetable material, screens, hassocks, and rugs, shall be forty per centum ad valorem. 379. Endless belts or felts for paper or printing machines, twenty cents per pound and thirty per centum ad valorem. ACT OF OCTOBER i, 1890. Schedule K.— Wool and Manufactures of Wool. 375. All wools, hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, and other like animals shall be divided for the purpose of fixing the duties to be charged thereon into the three following classes : 376. Class one, that is to say, Merino, mestiza, metz, or metis wools, or other wools of Merino blood, immediate or remote, Down clothing wools, and wools of like character with any of the preceding, including such as ha7e been heretofore usually imported into the United States from Buenos Ay res, New Zealand, Australia, Cape of Good Hope, Russia, Great Britain, Canada, and elsewhere, and also including all wools not hereinafter described or designated in classes two and three. 377. Class two, that is to say, Leicester, Cotswold, Lincolnshire, Down combing wools, Canada long wools, or other like combing wools of English blood, and usually 120 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. known by the terms herein used, and also hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, and other like animals. 378. Class three, that is to say, Donskoi, native South American, Cordova, Val- paraiso, native Smyrna, Russian camels hair, and including all such wools of like character as have been heretofore usually imported into the United States from Turkey, Greece, Egypt, Syria, and elsewhere, excepting improved wools hereinafter provided far. 379. The standard samples of all wools which are now or may be hereafter deposited in the principal custom-houses of the United States, under the authority of the Secretary of the Treasury, shall be the standards for the classification of wools under this act, and the Secretary of the Treasury shall have the authority to renew these standards and to make such additions to them from time to time as may be required, and he shall cause to be deposited like standards in other custom-houses of the United States when they may be needed. 380. Whenever wools of class three shall have been improved by the admixture of Merino or English blood from their present character as represented by the stand- ard samples now or hereafter to be deposited in the principal custom-houses of the United States, such improved wools shall be classified for duty either as class one or as class two, as the case may be. 381. The duty on wools of the first class which shall be imported washed shall be twice the amount of the duty to which they would be subjected if imported unwashed; and the duty on wools of, the first and second classes which shall be im- ported scoured shall be three times the duty to which they would be subjected if imported unwashed. 382. Unwashed wools shall be considered such as shall have been shorn from the sheep without any cleansing; that is, in their natural condition. Washed wools shall be considered such as have been washed with water on the sheep's back. Wool washed in any other manner than on the sheep's back shall be considered as scoured wool. 383. The duty upon wool of the sheep or hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, and other like animals which shall be imported in any other than ordinary condition, or which shall be changed in its character or condition for the purpose of evading the duty, or which shall be reduced in value by the admixture of dirt, or any other foreign substance, or which has been sorted or increased in value by the rejection of any part of the orginal fleece, shall be twice the duty to which it would be otherwise subject: Provided, That skirted wools as now imported are hereby excepted. Wools on which a duty is assessed amounting to three times or more than that which would be assessed if said wool was imported unwashed, such duty shall not be doubled on account of its being sorted. If any bale or package of wool or hair specified in this act imported as of any specified class, or claimed by the importer to be dutiable as of any specified class, shall contain any wool or hair subject to a higher rate of duty than the class so specified, the whole bale or package shall be subject to the highest rate of duty chargeable on wool of the class subject to such higher rate of duty, and if any bale or package be claimed by the importer to be shoddy, mungo, flocks, wool, hair, or other material of any class specified in this act, and such bale contain any admixture of any one or more of said materials, or of any other material, the whole bale or package shall be subject to duty at the highest rate imposed upon any article in said bale or package. 384. The duty upon all wools and hair of the first class shall be eleven cents per pound, and upon all wools or hair of the second class twelve cents per pound. 385. On wools of the third class and on camel's hair of the third class the value whereof shall be thirteen cents or less per pound, including charges, the duty shall be thirty-two per centum ad valorem. 386. On wools of the third class, and on camel's hair of the third class, the value whereof shall exceed thirteen cents per pound, including charges, the duty shall be fifty per centum ad valorem. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 121 387. Wools on the skin shall pay the same rate as other wools, the quantity and value to be ascertained under such rules as the Secretary of the Treasury may pre- scribe. 388. On noils, shoddy, top waste, slubbing waste, roving waste, ring waste, yarn waste, garnetted waste, and all other wastes composed wholly or in part of wool, the duty shall be thirty cents per pound. 389. On woolen rags, mungo, and flocks, the duty shall be ten cents per pound. 390. Wools and hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, or other like animals, in the form of roping, roving, or tops, and all wool and hair which have been advanced in any manner or by any process of manufacture beyond the washed or scoured condition, not specially provided for in this act, shall be subject to the same duties as are imposed upon manufactures of wool not specially provided for in this act. 391. On woolen and worsted yarns made wholly or in part of wool, worsted, the hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, or other animals, valued at not more than thirty cents per pound, the duty per pound shall be two and one-half times the duty imposed by this act on a pound of unwashed wool of the first class, and in addition thereto, thirty-five per centum ad valorem; valued at more than thirty cents and not more than forty cents per pound, the duty per pound shall be three times the duty imposed by this act on a pound of unwashed wool of the first class, and in addition thereto thirty-five per centum ad valorem; valued at more than forty cents per pound, the duty per pound shall be three and one-half times the duty imposed by this act on a pound of unwashed wool of the first class, and in addition thereto forty per centum ad valorem. 392. On woolen or worsted cloths, shawls, knit fabrics, and all fabrics made on knitting machines or frames, and all manufactures of every description made wholly or in part of wool, worsted, the hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, or other animals, not specially provided for in this act, valued at not more than thirty cents per pound, the duty per pound shall be three times the duty imposed by this act on a pound of unwashed wool of the first class, and in addition thereto forty per centum ad valorem; valued at more than thirty and not more than forty cents per pound, the duty per pound shall be three and one-half times the duty imposed by this act on a pound of unwashed wool of the first class, and in addition thereto forty per centum ad valorem; valued at above forty cents per pound, the duty per pound shall be four times the duty imposed by this act on a pound of u nwashed wool of the first class, and in addition thereto fifty per centum ad valorem. 393. On blankets, hats of wool, and flannels for underwear composed wholly or in part of wool, the hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, or other animals, valued at not more than thirty cents per pound, the duty per pound shall be the same as the duty imposed by this act on one pound and one-half of unwashed wool of the first class, and in addition thereto thirty per centum ad valorem; valued at more than thirty and not more than forty cents per pound, the duty per pound shall be twice the duty imposed by this act on a pound of unwashed wool of the first class ; valued at more than forty cents and not more than fifty cents per pound, the duty per pound shall be three times the duty imposed by this act on a pound of unwashed wool of the first class ; and in addition thereto upon all the above-named articles thirty-five per cen- tum ad valorem. On blankets and hats of wool composed wholly or in part of wool, the hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, or other animal, valued at more than fifty cents per pound, the duty per pound shall be three and a half times the duty imposed by this act on a pound of unwashed wool of the first class, and in addition thereto forty per centum ad valorem. Flannels composed wholly or in part of wool, the hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, or other animals, valued at above fifty cents per pound shall be classified and pay the same duty as women's and children's dress goods, coat lin- ing, Italian cloths, and goods of similar character and description provided by this act. 394 On women's and children's dress goods, coat linings, Italian cloths, and goods of similar character or description of which the warp consists wholly of cotton or 122 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. other vegetable material, with the remainder of the fabric composed wholly or in part of wool, worsted, the hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, or other animals valued at not exceeding fifteen cents per square yard, seven cents per square yard, and in addition thereto forty per centum ad valorem; valued at above fifteen cents per square yard, eight cents per square yard, and in addition thereto fifty per centum ad valorem: Provided, That on all such goods weighing over four ounces per square yard the duty per pound shall be four times the duty imposed by this act on a pound of unwashed wool of the first class, and in addition thereto fifty per centum ad va- lorem. 395. On women's and children's dress goods, coat linings, Italian cloth, bunting, and goods of similar description or character composed wholly or in part of wool, worsted, the hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, or other amimals, and not specially provided for in this act, the duty shall be twelve cents per square yard, and in addi- tion thereto fifty per centum ad valorem : Provided, That on all such goods weighing over four ounces per square yard the duty per pound shall be four times the duty imposed by this act on a pound of unwashed wool of the first class, and in addition thereto fifty per centum ad valorem. 396. On clothing, ready made, and articles of wearing apparel of every descrip- tion, made up or manufactured wholly or in part, not specially provided for in this act, felts not woven, and not specially provided for in this act, plushes and other pile fabrics, all of the foregoing, composed wholly or in part of wool, worsted, the hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, or other animals the duty per pound shall be four and one-half times the duty imposed by this act on a pound of unwashed wool of the first class, and in addition thereto sixty per centum ad valorem. 397. On cloaks, dolmans, jackets, talmas, ulsters, or other outside garments for ladies and children's apparel and goods of similar description, or used for like pur- poses, composed wholly or in part of wool, worsted, the hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, or other animals, made up or manufactured wholly or in part, the duty per pound shall be four and one-half times the duty imposed by this act on a pound of unwashed wool of the first class, and in addition thereto sixty per centum ad valorem. 398. On webbings, gorings, suspenders, braces, beltings, bindings, braids, galloons, fringes, gimps, cords, cords and tassels, dress trimmings, laces and embroideries, head nets, buttons, or barrel buttons, or buttons of other forms, for tassels or orna- ments, wrought by hand or braided by machinery any of the foregoing which are elastic or non-elastic, made of wool, worsted, the hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, or other animals, or of which wool, worsted, the hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, or other animals is a component material, the duty shall be sixty cents per pound, and in addition thereto sixty per centum ad valorem. 399. Aubusson, Axminster, Moquette, and Chenille carpets, figured or plain, car- pets woven whole for rooms, and all carpets or carpeting of like character or description, and oriental, Berlin, and other similar rugs, sixty cents per square yard, and in addition thereto forty per centum ad valorem. 400. Saxony, Wilton, and Tournay velvet carpets, figured or plain, and all carpets or carpeting of like character or description, sixty cents per square yard, and in addition thereto forty per centum ad valorem. 401. Brussels carpets, figured or plain, and all carpets or carpeting of like char- acter or description, forty-four cents per square yard, and in addition thereto forty per centum ad valorem. 402. Velvet and tapestry velvet carpets, figured or plain, printed on the wrap or otherwise, and all carpets or carpeting of like character or description, forty cents per square yard, and in addition thereto forty per centum ad valorem. 403. Tapestry Brussels carpets, figured or plain, and all carpets or carpeting of like character or description, printed on the warp or otherwise, twenty-eight cents per square yard, and in addition thereto forty per centum ad valorem. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 123 404. Treble ingrain, three-ply and all chain Venetian carpets, nineteen cents per square yard,, and in addition thereto forty per centum ad valorem. 405. Wool Dutch and two-ply ingrain carpets, fourteen cents per square yard, and in addition thereto forty per centum ad valorem. 406. Druggets and bookings, printed, colored, or otherwise, twenty-two cents per square yard, and in addition thereto forty per centum ad valorem. Felt carpeting, figured or plain, eleven cents per square yard, and in addition thereto forty per centum ad valorem. 407. Carpets and carpeting of wool, flax or cotton, or composed in part of either, not specially provided for in this act, fifty per centum ad valorem. 408. Mats, rugs, screens, covers, hassocks, bed sides, art squares, and other por- tions of carpets or carpeting made wholly or in part of wool, and not specially pro- vided for in this act, shall be subjected to the rate of duty herein imposed on carpets or carpeting of like character or description. DECISIONS IN REGARD TO WOOL AND WOOLENS. Treasury Department, August 31, 1883. Skins with the wool on. — It appears from your monthly report of importations for July, that in the case of certain sheepskins imported with the wool on, duties were assessed on the wool at the rate of 2\ cents per pound, and on the skins at the rate of 10 per cent ad valorem. The tariff formerlv in force imposed duty on such skins at the rate of 30 per cent ad valorem, but the provision was not reproduced in the new tariff. The existing free list includes (T. I., new, 719) " hides, raw or uncured, whether dry, salted, or pickled, and skins, except sheepkins with the wool ori, angora-goat skins, raw, with- out the wool, unmanufactured, asses' skins, raw or unmanufactured/' and also (T. I., new, 788,) " skins, dried, salted, or pickled." In view of this legislation, and of the provision of section 2499, that " non-enu- merated articles similar in material, quality, texture, and the use to which they may be applied to articles on the free list, and in the manufacture of which no dutiable materials are used, shall be free/' the Department holds that the skins mentioned in yonr report were entitled to admission free of duties, and if the requirements of sec- tion 2931, Revised Statutes, have been complied with, measures may be taken in the usual manner for a refund of the amount levied in excess. Of course the duties on the wool will be retained. (5883.) Treasury Department, September 17, 1883. Worsted shawls — The Department duly received your letter of the 21st ultimo, submitting the appeal (7852 h) of Jno. V. Farwell & Co. from your assessment of duty at the rate of 45 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem on certain worsted shawls entered at your port July 27, 1883. The goods are dutiable under Schedule K of the tariff of March 3, 1883, which provides for woollen and worsted goods. Woollen shawls are enumerated therein, but worsted shawls are not, and the question presented is, whether worsted shawls shall be classified under paragraph 366 (T. I., new), which provides for " clothing ready-made, and wearing-apparel of every description, not specially enumerated or provided for in this act, * * * composed wholly or in part of wool or worsted," or under paragraph 367, which provides for " cloaks, dolmans, jackets, talmas, ulsters, or other outside garments for ladies' and children's apparel, and goods of similar description or used for like purposes, composed wholly or in part of wool, worsted/' etc. 124 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Shawls are unquestionably wearing-apparel, but it is not so clear that they corae within a proper definition of the word "garment," which Webster defines to mean any article of clothing, as a coat, a gown, etc. The term clothing, as commonly understood, would not embrace articles like shawls. The articles enumerated in paragraph 367 are made up by the seamstress or manu- facturer from cloth or other fabric, which of itself is a finished article, while shawls are made by a continuous process from the yarn by machinery. Shawls do not belong to the class of goods enumerated in paragraph 367, and, in the opinion of the Depart- ment, it is not applicable by the usual rule of law adopted in construing tariff statutes (noscitur a sociis) to worsted shawls, and hence they remain dutiable, under paragraph 366, as wearing-apparel. Upon the view thus taken, the provision in section 2499, that "if two or more rates of duty should be applicable to any imported article, it shall be classified for duty under the highest of such rates," does not reach this case. You will adjust the entry accordingly. (5903.) Treasury Department, September 22, 18SS. Yarn made of wool and rabbit's hair. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 15th instant, transmitting the appeal (9618 li) of George Miiller from your decision assessing duty at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem on certain yarn imported, per Westphalia, August 2, 1883, which the appellant claims to be dutiable at the rate of 30 per cent ad valorem, as "rabbit's fur yarn," under the provision in Schedule N of the Tariff of 1883 (T. I., new, 435) for articles made of fur, &c. The merchandise consists of yarn made from wool and rabbit's hair, in the pro- portion of 65 per cent of wool to 35 per cent of hair, and the appraiser reports that its proper classification is under the provision for woollen and worsted yarns found in Schedule K (T. L, new, 363). In this opinion the Department concurs, and as the yarn was valued at over 80 cents a pound, the correct rate of duty was that assessed by you. Your assessment of duty at the rate specified is hereby affirmed. (5913.) Treasury Department, October 20, 1883. Merino fichus. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 23d of August last, transmitting the appeal (7926 h) of Carson, Pirie, Scott & Co. from your decision assessing duty at the rate of 50 per cent ad valorem on certan merino fichus imported .Inly li, 1883, which the appellants claim to be dui table at the rate of 40 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem. The articles are ready-made clothing or wearing-apparel, composed in part of silk and in part of wool, and the question involved is whether they are dutiable as manu- factures of silk or of which silk is the component of chief value (T. I., new, 383), or under the provision for " clothing, ready-made, and wearing-apparel of every descrip- tion, not specially enumerated or provided for in this act, * * * composed wholly or in part of wool," &c. (T. I., new, 366.) In the opinion of the Department, the articles are provided for in the clause last mentioned, as they are therein enumerated as ready-made clothing, in part of wool, and as such provision takes precedence of the general provision (T. I., new, 383) for "all goods, wares, and merchandise not specially enumerated or provided for in this act, made of silk, or of which silk is the component material of chief value." The Department decides that the appeal is well taken, and that the appellants are entitled to a reliquidation of the entry. You will take action accordingly. (5964.) WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 125 Treasury Department, November 12, 1883. White highland wool. — I have the honor to acknowledge the receipt of a letter from the Acting Secretary, dated the 6th instant, transmitting a copy of a dispatch from Mr. Bret Harte, United States consul at Glasgow, relating to the price of white Highland wool. In reply to your request for the views of this Department, on the inquiry of the consul, as to the definition to he given to the phrase u at the last port or place whence exported to the United States," I have to state that it is generally the place where the goods are put on shipboard for exportation to the United States. Thus, in the case of an importation of " Highland laid wool," shipped from Glasgow to Liverpool for shipment to the United States, this Department held, February 5, 1878, that Liverpool was the last place of shipment within the meaning of the tariff, and in another case, of certain wool from Dewsbury, England, shipped to the United States from Liverpool, it was decided, July 30, 1879, as follows : ■ "In the present case, Liverpool Avas the last port whence the wool was exported to the United States; consequently it is the duty of the appraiser to determine its actual market value there, and that fixes the value by which the rate of duty shall be determined." "The charges from Dewsbury to Liverpool do not enter into the question unless the appraiser should find that the market value at Liverpool is less than the invoice price at Dewsbury, with the freight from Dewsbury to Liver- pool added." It will be seen, therefore, that, as regards the Highland wool, referred to by the consul as being gathered up at places in the interior, brought to Glasgo w and put on board the exporting vessel at the latter place for shipment to the United States, it should be valued for the purpose of ascertaining the rate of duty at Glasgow, and not at the interior ports; and, further, that the transportation charges to Glasgow are not to be added as such to ascertain the value, for the reason that the law re- quires the ascertainment of the value at the last port or place whence exported to the United States, excluding charges in such port. If the market value at Glasgow for the wool is greater than the market value at the interior places, the merchandise should be invoiced accordingly, but without any express addition for transportation charges to Glasgow. When the actual market value of such wool, at the last place of shipment to the United States, ex- clusive of charges in such port, shall have been ascertained, no further inquiry is necessary to ascertain the value for the purpose of determining the rate of duty to which the merchandise is liable. (600 §.) a. Treasury Department, November 19, 1883. Wool noils. — The Department duly received your letter of the 4th instant, request- ing that imported wool noils from the long wool of the Cotswoldand Leicester sheep may be classified for duty as wools of the third class, or carpet wools, upon the ground that they are only fit for use as carpet stock. The theory upon which the wool tariff of 1867 was adopted was a division of the wools into various classes according to race and blood, and their classification was not to be determined according to their use. This distinction has been maintained from the time of the enactment of the law until the present. The Department has heretofore decided that wool noils should be classified as wool, and, consequently, noils from wool of the Cotswold and Leicester sheep belong to class two, as combing wools, without regard to the uses to which they are put. Whether the principle adopted in the Department's decision of June 2, 1883, to which you refer, which determines the classification of mohair noils according to the uses for which they are fit, is a correct one or not, the Department does not propose to extend that prin- ciple to wool. (6028.) a See No. 6129. 126 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Treasury Department, December 7, 1883. Tapestry carpets. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 9th of October, submitting the appeal (176 i) of J. Kennard & Sons from your assessment of duties at the rate of 45 cents per square yard and 30 per cent ad valorem on cer- tain tapestry velvet and tapestry Brussels carpets imported by them. The carpets were woven whole, some of the pieces being 10 feet square, and others of less dimen- sions. The importers claim that they are dutiable at 40 per cent ad valorem, under the following provision in Schedule K (T. L, new, 378) : Carpets and carpeting of wool, flax, or cotton, or parts of either or other material, not otherwise herein specified, forty per centum ad valorem; and mats, rugs, screens, covers, hassocks, bedsides, and other portions of carpets or carpetings, shall be sub- jected to the rate of duty herein imposed on carpets or carpetings of like character or description; and the duty on all other mats not exclusively of vegetable material, screens, hassocks, and rugs, shall be forty per centum ad valorem. The ground upon which they base this claim is that the carpets are " of insufficient size to cover an ordinary room, and are not portions of carpets and carpetings." You assessed the duty under Schedule K, paragraph 369, which imposes a duty of 45 cents per square yard and 30 per cent ad valorem on " Aubusson, Axminster, and chenille carpets, and carpets woven whole for rooms." Conceding the claim made by the appellants, that the carpets are of insufficient size to cover a room of ordi- nary size, they are not dutiable under paragraph 378, because tapestry Brussels and tapestry velvet carpets are specially provided for in paragraphs 372 and 373. The claim of the appellants is therefore rejected. (6060.) Treasury Department, December 11 , 1883, Woolen knit goods. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 24th of October last, transmitting the appeals (543 i and 544 i) of the John Shillito Co., from your decision assessing duty at the rate of 45 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem on certain ladies 7 jackets and cloaks imported into your port on the 22d and 24th of September last (entries Nos. 1332 and 1343), which the appellants claim to be dutiable according to value per pound weight, under the provision in Schedule K (T. L, new, 363) for "knit goods." Upon an inspection of samples, it appears that the articles are made of a knitted fabric of wool, and that they come within the general category of " knit goods," which are specially excepted from the provision (T. I., new, 366 and 367) for u cloth- ing, ready-made," etc., and " cloaks, dolmans," etc. The samples were also submitted to the appraiser at New York, who reports that it is the practice at that port to classify such articles as u knit goods," at a duty of 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem, when they cost over 80 cents per pound. The Department, therefore, decides that the appeals are well taken, and authorizes you to reliquidate the entries accordingly. (6065.) Treasury Department, December 26, 1883. Wools — last port of exportation to United States. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 10th instant, in which you review the opinion expressed in its letter to the Secretary of State of November 12, 1883 (Synopsis, 6008), as to the proper definition to be given to the term used in the tariff imposing duties on wools "at the last port or place whence exported to the United States," where the value is to be determined by which the rate of duty is governed. The question you discuss is, whether the place where the wool is placed on board the exporting vessel, and from which she sails to the United States, is necessarily WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 127 the place where the dutiable value is to be determined, or whether the law does not, in using the term "port or place," admit of the value being taken at the interior place of purchase or production, and where its journey to the United States might in some cases be said to commence. You favor the latter view. I reply that the act of March 2, 1867, which is the foundation of the present system of tariff on wools, declares that, to determine the rate of duty on the various classes of wools, the value shall be taken at the last port or place whence exported to the United States, excluding charges in such port. This phrase is six times repeated in section 1 of said act. The alternative form of expression, " last port or place," was used so as to dis- tinguish the last port or place of shipment from any prior port or place from which it might be shipped. The words port or place were used because shipments might be made in some instances from places which were not ports — for example, from countries adjacent to the United States. The same form of expression was used in Schedule L of the Revised Statutes, which reproduced the wool act of 1867, and is also maintained unimpaired in Sched- ule K of the tariff of March 3, 1883. It was all the while the value at the last port or place whence exported to the United States, excluding charges in such port, that was to control. The phrase " excluding charges in such port," as used in the tariff of March 3, 1883, is surplusage, because the duty on all charges as such, above the value of the goods, was repealed by the same act. With other merchandise, however, the rule by which the rate of duty dependent on value was determined was different. The seventh section of the act of March 3, 1865, prescribed that in all cases where the rate of duty was regulated by or directed to be estimated on the value of the square yard, or of any specified quantity or parcel of such merchandise, the value should be determined according to the actual market value or wholesale price at the period of exportation to the United States, in the principal markets of the country from which the same should have been imported. To this was added, by section 9 of the act of July 28, 1866, the cost of packing and transportation to the exporting vessel, including other charges therein mentioned. This line of distinction has been uniformly maintained by the Department. Now, the question of packing and shipping charges no longer enters into the case. The duty on such charges has been removed, and the duty on wool is wholly specific. The sole question for the appraiser to determine is, what is the market value of the wool per se at the last port or place whence exported to the United States. Wools produced in the highlands of Scotland and transported to Glasgow, and exported thence to the United States, must be valued at Glasgow, because that is the last place of exportation. (6084.) Treasury Department, January 23, 1884. Wool noils — classification of. — Referring to your letter of the 17th ultimo, inclosing one from Mr. George William Bond, in regard to the classification of wool noils, and their place in the standard cabinets of wool which he is now preparing, under directions from this Department, I have to state that by decision No. 1404, of February 8, 1873, it was provided that noils which are nothing but wool, automatically sorted, were to be classed as washed wools, and not as scoured wools. This was owing to the fact that in the process of arranging them for the combers they had necessarily to be oiled to a certain extent, which unfitted them to be classed as scoured wool. The extracts which Mr. Bond furnishes from his report on the classification of noils in 1873 advised that noils of the first and second classes should be rated as scoured wools. This view was not sustained by the decision referred to. I agree with him 128 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. that the long practice under this decision must be assumed to have been known to the Tariff Commission and the lawmakers when enacting the new tariff, and that it should be followed as a rule of action. As to noils from wools of the third class, it makes no difference whether they are classed as washed or unwashed. The reasons of the rule in regard to noils from first and second-class wools, not being classed as scoured wools, apply equally to noils from wools of the third class. (613 3») Treasury Department, January 23, 1884. Mixed goods— silk and wool cloth. — The Department duly received your let- ter of the 29th of October last, submitting the appeal (672i) of Messrs. Meyer & Dickinson from your assessment of duty at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem on certain niatelasse* cloth imported in the vessels therein named. It appears that the goods are composed of silk and wool, and that silk is the chief component of value thereof. There are two paragraphs in the tariff which embrace these goods, viz, paragraph 362, in Schedule H, for " all manufactures of wool of every description, made wholly or in part of wool, not specially enumerated or provided for," and that in paragraph 383, in Schedule L, for " all goods * * * not specially enumerated or provided for, * * * made of silk, or of which silk is a component material of chief value." Section 2499 of the Revised Statutes, as amended by the act of March 3, 1883, pro- vides that " on all articles manufactured from two or more materials the duty shall be assessed at the highest rates at which the component material of chief value * * * may be chargeable." This principle would make the article under consideration dutiable, under Sched- ule L, at 50 per cent ad valorem, as a manufacture of which silk is the component material of chief value. Where this provision is applicable the further provision that " if two or more rates of duty should be applicable to any imported article it shall be classified for duty under the highest of such rates," can not be applied, because two or more rates of duty are not applicable to the article. You will therefore readjust the entry at the rate of 50 per cent ad valorem. (6134.) Treasury Department, January 24, 1884. Merino trowsers, shirts, hose, etc. — The Department is in receipt of your letters of the 14th instant, transmitting the appeals (2565i and 2566i) of Lindaner Bros. & Co. from your decision assessing duty at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem on certain merino trowsers, shirts, hose, etc., imported into your port on the 30th of August last, which the appellants claim to be dutiable at the rate of 40 per cent ad valorem, under the provision in Schedule I (T. I., new, 323) for " stockings, etc., composed wholly of cotton," etc. The appraiser reports that all of the goods in question consist of "knit goods," of which wool forms an important feature, costing over 80 cents per pound. Referring to Schedule K (T. I., new, 362), the Department affirms your decision. (6135.) Treasury Department, January 24, 1884. Lastings. — Under date of May 25, 1883, a petition was forwarded to this Depart- ment, signed by Messrs. H. B. Claflin & Co. and a large number of other parties connected with manufacturing interests in the United States, in regard to the clas- sification of fabrics known as lastings, which are generally used in the manufacture of shoes. It was contended by these parties that lastings were dutiable under par- WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 129 agraph 365 of Schedule K, which provides for "women's and children's dress-goods, coat-linings, Italian cloths, and goods of like description, composed in part of wool, worsted, the hair of the alpaca, goat, or other animals." If not dutiable under this provision, they fall into paragraph 363. The question is then narrowed down to whether lastings are goods of like description to Italian cloths. It is shown by the papers that lastings are made of heavy two fold worsted warps and coarse cotton weft, while Italian cloths are made of fine cotton waips and fine single worsted wefts, Italians being much lighter fabrics than lastings. Their uses are not similar, Italian cloths being used mainly for coat-linings, while lastings are for shoe purposes, and their quality is not similar. To determine whether the goods are of like description to those enumerated in the tariff, reference must be had to some standard. In Butterfield against Merritt, the test whether certain goods were of "like description" was chiefly the uses to which they were applied. It was also held that the term " goods of like description" and that " or for similar use" were to be construed as practically convertible. In Stewart v. Maxwell, 16 Howard, 160, cited with approbation in Arthur, collector, v. Fox, Supreme Court, October term, 1882, the court applied the same test to the similitude clause, section 2499, Revised Statutes. Upon these views the Secretary has directed the classification of lastings under paragraph 363 of Schedule K, which makes the duty dependent upon the value of the goods per pound. Action will be taken accordingly. (6137.) Treasury Department, February IS, 1884. Toilet mats op silk, cotton, and worsted.— The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 1st instant, submitting the appeal (3242i) of Messrs. Mandel Brothers from your assessment of duty at the rate of 50 per cent ad valorem on certain embroidered mats imported by them (entry No. 6178), November 21, 1883. The appellants claim that the mats in question are entitled to entry at the rate of 40 per cent ad valorem, as " cotton embroideries," under the Department's decision of February 10, 1883 (not published). The appraiser reports that the mats are toilet or table mats or squares, made of silk-faced velvet or plush, with a lining or back of cotton, and a narrow worsted fringe, of trifling value, around the edge, and embroidered to a small extent on the surface, and that, in his opinion, silk is the component of chief value. From this description of the mats, the Department is of opinion that they are not entitled to entry as " cotton embroideries," and that they were properly classified as manufactures of which silk is the component of chief value. Your decision is hereby affirmed. The decision to which the appellants refer is not applicable to goods imported under the act of March 3, 1883. (6 169.) Treasury Department, March 15, 1884. Mourning-bands for hats.-— The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 15th of November last, transmitting the appeal (1099i) of H. Tilge & Co. from youa? decision assessing duty at the rate of 50 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem on certain woollen bands imported, per Lord Gough, May 29, 1883, which the appel- lants claim to be dutiable at the rate of 30 per cent ad valorem, as " trimmings for hats" (T. I., old, 380). An inspection of samples shows that the articles are woollen bands, which are intended for use as badges of mourning on men's hats. H. Mis. 94 9 130 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES. OF WOOL. Mourning-bands of this character are not commercially known as " trimmings" for hats, and neither are they materials which are used in the manufacture of hats. They are articles which are bought and sold separately from completed parts, and which do not constitute a portion of the materials necessary for the manufacture of hats. In the opinion of the Department, the claim of the appellants can not be allowed. Your decision is affirmed. (6243.) Treasury Department, April 15, 1884. Tweed hats. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 22d ultimo, transmitting the appeal (538(H) of D. P. Ilsley & Co., from your decision assessing duty at the rate of 40 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem on certain tweed hats imported per Samaria, October 19, 1883, which the appellants claim to be duti- able at the rate of 30 per cent ad valorem. These hats, as the appraiser states, are not the " hats of wool 99 or felt hats (see Department's ruling of September 1, 1860) which are specified in Schedule K (T. I., new, 363), but consist of hats made of a tweed cloth. Hats of this character and hats of all kinds, except those commercially known as "hats of wool," are dutiable at the rate of 30 per cent ad valorem, under the special provision in Schedule N (T. I., new, 400) for "hats * * * for men, women, and children," etc., and Depart- ment's ruling of February 27, 1884 (Synopsis, 6197). You will reliquidate the entry accordingly. (6299.) Treasury Department, April 22, 1884. Cotton embroidered with worsted. — The Department duly received your letter of the 26th ultimo, submitting the appeal (5533i) of T. Schulemann from your decision assessing duty at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem on certain so-called " cotton embroideries" imported, per Bohemia, December 20, 1883. The goods consisted of cotton embroidered with worsted, intended for the manu- facture of shoes, cushions, foot rests, and other like articles. The appellants claim the proper rate of duty to be 40 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 325, which includes cotton embroideries. In the tariff found in the Revised Statutes, the provision for embroideries was "manufactures of cotton, linen, or silk, if embroidered or tamboured in the loom, or otherwise, by machinery or with the needle or other process, not otherwise pro- vided for, 35 per cent ad valorem." This provided for manufactures of cotton embroidered, whether the embroidery was done with cotton or other materials. In the act of March 3, 1883, the provision is for cotton embroideries. The goods in question are not commercially known as cotton embroideries, and are not wholly of cotton, neither is the embroidery composed of cotton. It is held that they are not within the provision for embroideries, but are dutiable under paragraph 363, as manufactures in part of worsted. Your decision is hereby affirmed. (6309.) Treasury Department, April 24, 1884. Worsted laces for dress trimmings. — This Department is in receipt of your .letter, dated the 18th instant, transmitting the appeal (6216i) of Messrs. Meyerheim, Martin & Co., from your assessment of duty at the rate of 30 cents per pound and WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 131 50 per cent ad valorem on certain so-called worsted laces imported by them, per Amerique, August 13, 1883. Duties were assessed under paragraph 368 (T. I., new), relating to " dress trim- mings * • * * made of * * * worsted." The Department understands that the goods resemble worsted yak lace, and are used for similar purposes. In the case of Duden v. Arthur (Synopsis 4360), tried in the circuit court for the southern district of New York, the testimony showed that yak laces were not con- sidered by importers and dealers generally in this country as covered by the term "dress trimmings. " The verdict to that effect was acquiesced in by the Depart- ment, and the principle should govern in the present case. The laces in question are included in the provision of paragraph 362 (T. I., new), for " all manufactures of every description composed wholly or in part of worsted," and as they are understood "to be valued at above 80 cents per pound," the claim of the appellants, that they are dutiable at 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valo- rem, is correct. You will, therefore, take measures for a refund of the duties levied in excess. (6311.) Treasury Department, May 6, 18S4. Worsted and cotton coat linings. — The Department duly received your letter of the 26th of March, transmitting the appeals (5434 i, 5435 L 5436 %, 5437 i, and 5438 i) of H, Herrman Sternbach & Co. from your assessment of duty on certain coat lin- ingsimported by them per the vessels therein named. The goods were made of worsted and cotton, and were classified under paragraph 365 of Schedule K, at a duty of 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem, the concluding proviso of said schedule being held to control the rate of duty on the goods. The appellants claim, however, that the proviso relates only to goods manu- factured wholly of wool, worsted, the hair of the alpaca, goat, or other animals, and hence does not affect the classification of those goods. The first part of the paragraph relates to women's and children's dress goods, coat linings, Italian cloths, and goods of like description, composed in part of wool, worsted, the hair of the alpaca, goat, or other animals. After fixing duties on this description of mixed goods, the paragraph takes up similar goods composed wholly of wool, worsted, etc., or of a mixture of them, and declares that all such goods with selvages made wholly or in part of other materials, or with threads of other materials introduced for the purpose of changing the classi- fication, shall be dutiable at 9 cents per square yard and 40 per cent ad valorem. In that connection the words "such goods" evidently refer to goods which are assumed to be wholly manufactured of wool, worsted, etc., and not to those named in the first part of the paragraph, which are confessedly made in part of wool, w orsted, etc. The paragraph concludes with a proviso that all such goods weighing- over 4 ounces to the square yard shall pay a duty of 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem. It is the opinion of the Department that the words "such goods" in this connec- tion are confined to the class of goods assumed to be made w r holly of wool, worsted, etc., or of a mixture of them, and paying duty as such, whether with selvage or without, or whether with or without threads or other materials introduced for the purpose of changing the classification; although, therefore, the goods in this case weigh over four ounces to the square yard, they are dutiable only at the rate pro- vided in the first part of the paragraph, according to value per square yard. The entry will be readjusted accordingly. * * * (6331.) a a Modified by No. 6429. 132 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL, Treasury Department, June 28, 1884. Cotton and wool gloves. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 17th instant, transmitting the appeal (8701 i) of Parker, McDonald & Bliss from your decision assessing duty at the rate of 40 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem on certain cotton and wool gloves imported May 20, 1884, which the appel- lants claim to be dutiable at the rate of 35 per cent ad valorem, as manufactures of cotton. The appraiser reports that the gloves in question are composed of a cotton exterior and wool lining, the wool portion being quite an important feature. Articles of this character, manufactured in part of wool, and where the wool por- tion is a substantial feature, are covered by the provision in Schedule K (T. L, new, 366) for "wearing-apparel, of every description * * * composed wholly or in part of wool," * * * and are dutiable at the rate of 40 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem. The claim of the appellants is rejected. (042 §«a) Treasury Department, June 28, 1884. Women's and children's dress-goods. — In Decision No. 6331, of May 6, 1884, the question was discussed whether the concluding proviso of paragraph 365 of the Treasury edition of the tariff of March 3, 1883, which requires dress-goods weigh- ing over four ounces to the square yard to pay a duty of 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem, applies only to the goods made wholly of wool, worsted, etc., or of a mixture of them, or to all the dress-goods and other fabrics named in said paragraph 365. The conclusion arrived at was that the proviso qualified only the goods made wholly of wool, worsted, etc. As important interests were, however, involved, the Department decided to refer the question to the Attorney-General, and the following is his reply to the request of this Department for his opinion on the subject. In reply to yours of the 18th instant, I submit the opinion that the expression "all such goods/' in the proviso to a paragraph beginning 'women's and children's dress- goods' (act of 1883, ch. 121, Schedule K, 22 Stats., page 509, 3d paragraph from top), means what the same expression had meant immediately before — that is, 'all goods' described throughout that paragraph, and 'weighing over four ounces,' etc. The Department yields to this opinion, and Decision No. 6331 is modified accord- ingly. Treasury Department, August 6, 1884. Gloves and hosiery — Knitted woolen.— This Department is in receipt of the letter of your special deputy, dated the 31st ultimo, stating that it has been the prac- tice at your port to assess duty at the rates of 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem on woolen gloves and hosiery made on knitting-frames, and inquiring whether the Department's decision of June 28, 1884, (synopsis 6428), fixing the rate on such gloves at 40 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem, was intended to apply to all hosiery as well as gloves. The inquiry is answered in the negative. The "knit goods and all goods made on knitting-frames," mentioned in Schedule K (T. L, new, 363), Avill be classified as heretofore. The decision in question related only to articles of the character therein mentioned, viz : To such as "are composed of a cotton exterior and wool lining, the wool portion being quite an important feature." a See No. 6513. b Revoked by No. 6924. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 133 As bearing upon the question, please refer to the Department's decision of September 11, 1879 (synopsis 4194). (6 5 1 3. a) Treasury Department, August W, 1884. Byzantine carpets. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 15th nstant transmitting the appeal (105 k) of the John Shillito Company from your lecision assessing duty at the rate of 30 cents per square yard and 30 per cent ad valorem on certain so-called byzantine carpets imported into your port on the 21st ultimo which the appellants claim to be dutiable at the rate of 40 per cent ad valorem (T. I., new, 378). It appears from the special report of the appraiser that the carpets in question are woolen carpets, which are woven in precisely the same manner and of the same materials as Brussels carpets, with the exception that here and there, at irregular intervals, a metal thread is introduced, which, however, is not of sufficient import- ance or character to take them out of the category of Brussels carpets Brussels carpets are specially provided for at a duty of 30 cents per square yard and 30 per cent ad valorem (T. L, new, 371), and in the opinion of the Department the said carpets were properly classified as such. The claim of the appellant is rejected. (6538.) Treasury Department, November 20, 1884. WOOLEN Yarns. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 7th instant transmitting appeals (1941 k and 1942 k) of Messrs. H. Taylor & Co. from your assessment of duty at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem, under T. I., new, 362, on certain woolen yarns imported by them, per Illinois, British Princess, and British Prince, March 21 and 25, and April 21, 1884, and returned by the appraiser as manufactures of wool not otherwise provided for. The importers claim that the goods should be classified as "woolen or worsted yarns," under T. I., new, 363, and subjected to the rate of duty specified therein, according to their value per pound. It appears from the appraiser's report in this case that the merchandise in ques- tion "consists of different-colored yarns, cut in lengths for the purpose of knitting into mats," and was not considered by him as "woolen yarn of commerce." The distinction does not seem to be well established, as the woolen yarn of com- merce is of different colors, and is cut in lengths or hanks, and intended for knitting or other manufacturing purposes. An inspection of the samples verifies this view. The mere cutting of the yarn to such lengths as the samples show does not operate to change its character. It remains "woolen yarn," and as such is specially pro- vided for in T. L, new, 363. This case is closely analogous to appeal 7219 h from your office (synopsis, 6109), in which spun-silk warps are held by the Department to be dutiable as spun silk, and, in accordance with the principles enunciated in that case, the appeals in this case are sustained. The entries will be readjusted under the provisions of T. I., new, 363, and the nec- essary steps taken to refund the excess of duty exacted. (6049.) a The Department is of opinion that the gloves lined with flannel should be classified for duty under the provision in Schedule L for "wearing apparel of- every description, * * * and composed wholly or in part of wool, * * * made up or manufactured, wholly or in part, by the tailor, seam- stress, or manufacturer," at the rate of 50 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem." The cotton gloves lined with leather are not leather gloves within the terms of the law above quo- ted, hut are entitled to entry at the rate of 35 per cent ad valorem, under the provision in Schedule M for "articles worn by men, women, or children, of whatever material composed, except silk and linen, made up or made wholly or in part by hand, not otherwise provided for." (4194— September 11, 1879.) 134 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Treasury Department, November 21, 1884. Cloaks partly composed of wool. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 12th instant, transmitting the appeal (2011 k) of Benjamin & Caspary from your decision assessing duty at the rate of 45 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem on certain so-called silk and worsted cloaks imported, per Elbe, August 27, 1883, which the appellants claim to he dutiable at the rate of 50 per cent ad valorem. It is understood from the report of the appraiser that the cloaks are made of matelasse' cloth, which is a fabric composed of silk, wool, or worsted and cotton, and that they were returned by him as " wool cloaks." " Cloaks * * * composed wholly or in part of wool, worsted," etc., are specially provided for (T. I., new, 367) at the rate of duty assessed by you, and, in the opinion of the Department, this provision governs without regard to the quantity of wool or worsted which may be contained in the fabric from which the cloaks are manufactured, provided, of course, it is an appreciable quantity. Your decision is therefore affirmed. The appraiser's attention should be directed to the fact that there is no special provision in the existing tariff for "silk wearing-apparel." (6653.) Treasury Department, January 3, 1885. Mohair noils. — The Department duly received your letter of the 15th ultimo, submitting the appeal (3152 k)jdf Messrs. Chadwick & Chadwick from yonr assess- ment of duty at the rate of 10 cents per pound on certain mohair noils imported by them from Liverpool, per steamer Virginia, November 3, 1884. The appellants claim that the merchandise should be classed as third-class wool or carpet stock, presumably under decision 5743, of June 2, 1883, while the apnraiser returned it as second-class wool, dutiable under Schedule K, at the rate assessed, a The decision referred to mohair noils, consisting of short hairs combed from the long hairs of the Angora goat, said not to have been fit for combing purposes, and to be scarcely suitable for anything but carpet stock, and it was held that, " con- sidering the uses to which the article covered by this appeal is available, and to which it is undoubtedly intended to be put, its proper place in the tariff is with «From the report of tlie appraiser it appears that the merchandise in question consisted of short hairs, combed from the long hairs of the Angora goat. It is not fit for combing purposes, and is said to he scarcely suitable for anything but "carpet stock." The appellant claims that the proper rate of duty is 3 cents per pound, under that clause in Schedule L which imposes that rate of duty on carpet wool and other similar wools, when of the value of 12 cents per pound or less. Schedule L places all hair of the alpaca, goat, or other like animals with combing wools, upon which duties accrue at the rate assessed by you. The opinion of those most conversant with the ideas upon which the tariff found in Schedule L rests, and its practi- cal operation since the passage of the wool tariff in 18G7, is, that the paragraph specifying class 2 was intended to apply only to such hair of the alpaca, goat, or other like animals as is lit for combing purposes. That that provision was not intended to cover all hair of the goat, etc., is shown by decision No. 4108, of July 23, 1879, which holds that certain hair cut from the beard of the ordinary white goat, and intended for the manufacture of brushes, was not dutiable under Schedule L. The characteristics of some descriptions of goats' hair are so nearly like those of wool that customs officers have, at times, found it difficult to decide whether it was goats' hair or came from the sheep; and in such cases it has been generally classed with the class of wool which it most nearly resembles, especially as regards its uses. Considering the uses to which the article covered by this appeal is available, and to Avhich it is undoubtedly intended to be put, its proper place in the tariff is with carpet wools, and not being otherwise provided for in Schedule L, it shouM pay the duty therein imposed on carpet wools. It can not be classed under the provision in Schedule M, which imposes a duty of 10 per cent ad valorem on hair of all kinds, cleaned, but unmanufactured, not otherwise provided for, because Schedule L in its first clause expressly provided that "all wools ; hair of the alpaca, goat, and other like animals shall be divided for the purpose of fixing the duties to be charged thereon into the three following classes," and this must be held to include all such products as are fit for combing or weaving. (5743— June 2, 1883.) "WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 135 carpet-wools, and, not being otherwise provided for in Schedule L, it should pay the duty therein imposed on carpet wools." This ruling was made on the evidence presented as to the uses for which the article was fit, notwithstanding the fact that class 2, Schedule Kj comprises all hair of the alpaca, goat, and other like animals, which was held, however, by said decision to embrace the hair of such animals only when fit for combing purposes. As to the merchandise covered by the present appeal, the appraiser reports as fol- lows : " The article in question is used by the importers in the manufacture of plush, imitations of seal-skins, astracan, and other similar goods, for ladies' cloakings and trimmings. It is not the mohair noils, short, and fit only for carpets, subject of Department's decision 5743. As shown by the above, it is fit for combing purposes, and, being produced from mohair, is, in my opinion, dutiable under T. I., 354, which provides for all hair of the alpaca, goat, and other like animals/' Your assessment of duty as stated is hereby affirmed. It is deemed proper to add that the report of the commission which examined the wool samples prepared by Mr. Geo. Wm. Bond recommended that all mohair noils should be placed with class 2, and the samples were arranged in the cabinets accordingly. Upon due consideration, however, I decide not to disturb decision 5743, which places mohair noils under class 3 when fit only for use as carpet stock. When such noils are fit for other purposes, they will be placed under class 2. The assignment of the samples in the cabinets will be understood accordingly* (670T.) Treasury Department, January 13, 1885. Woollen bonnets. — The Department is in receipt of the appeals hereinafter men- tioned from your decision assessing duty at the per pound and ad valorem rates according to value per pound weight on certain so-called Scotch bonnets, which the appellants claim to be dutiable at the rate of 30 per cent ad valorem, under the pro- vision in Schedule N (T. I., new, 400) for "bonnets, hats, and hoods for men, women, and children, and composed of * * * other material not specially enumerated or provided for in this act." It appears that the q;oods consist of woollen caps, which are partly woven and partly knitted, of the same character as those which by Department's rulings of July 25 and October 31 last (not published) were held to be neither the " bonnets," "hats," nor " hoods" which are covered by the paragraph before cited. The goods were dutiable under Schedule K, and the claim of the appellants is therefore rejected. (6718.) Treasury Department, February 14, 1885. Shawls. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 25th of November last, submitting th« appeal (2196 k) of James P. Farrell from your assessment of duty at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem, on certain shawls imported, per Britannic, February 4, 1884. A portion of the shawls in question were worsted shawls, which were dutiable, under decision 5903, of September 17, 1883, and paragraph 366 of Schedule K, at 40 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem. The entry will be readjusted at that rate. The remainder of the goods are silk and worsted shawls, having silk as a component of chief value. If they be considered worsted shawls, they are dutiable under paragraph 366, but if they be considered as manufactures of silk, or of which silk is a component of chief value, they would be dutiable at 50 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 383 of Schedule L. Section 2499 of the Revised Statutes, as found in the act of March 3, 1883, declares that if two or more rates of duty shall be applicable to any imported article, it shall be classified for duty under the highest of such rates. That provision controls in 136 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. this case, and as the duty of 50 per cent ad valorem is understood to be higher than that imposed by the wool tariff, it follows that the articles are dutiable at 50 per cent ad valorem. The entry will be readjusted accordingly. (6"766.) Treasury Department, February 19, 1885. Woolen turbans. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 14th instant, submitting the appeal (7883 h) of Mr. Daniel D. Youmans from your assess- ment of duty at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem on certain turbans imported by him, per America, September 27, 1884, and claimed to be entitled to entry at the rate of 30 per cent ad valorem under the provision in the act of March 3, 1883 (T. I., new, 400), for "hats for men, women, and children, composed of chip, grass, * * * or other material." The appraiser reports that the articles are worsted caps of a peculiar shape, known as turbans, and that they were classified under the provision in said act (T. I, new, 363) for "hats of wool." The Department is of opinion that such classification is correct, and your decision is hereby affirmed. (Of^O.) Treasury Department, April 24, 1885. Articles assignable to either of two classes dutiable under that im- posing the highest rate of duty. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 3d instant, submitting the appeal (9324 k) of Messrs H. Herrman, Sternbach & Co. from your assessment of duty at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem on certain merchandise imported by them, per Arizona, July 21, 1884. The appraiser reports that the goods in question are composed of goat's hair, cot- ton, and silk, silk being the component material of chief value, and that under the Department's decision of January 23, 1884 (Synopsis, 6134), they are entitled to entry at the rate of 50 per cent ad valorem, as claimed by the appellants. Paragraph 365, Schedule K, imposes duties at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem on all manufactures composed in part of the hair of the alpaca, goat, or other animals, when weighing over 4 ounces per square yard. These goods fulfill those conditions. They are also goods of which silk is the component of chief value, and so meet the requirements of Schedule L. The appellants claim that the goods are duitable, under Schedule L, at 50 per cent ad valorem, which rate is therefore understood to be less than that assessed by you under Schedule K. Under the principle laid down in decision 6766, these goods are dutiable under the schedule yielding the highest rate of duty, as prescribed by cec- tion 2499, which was the rate assessed by you. Your decision is affirmed. Your assessment of duty on the appraised value of Italian cloths and cotton vel- vets contained in said importation, which included the cost of making up tillots, cartons, etc., which were necessary to place them in the condition in which they are usually held for sale in the foreign markets, being in accordance with the Department's decisions of February 20, 1884 (Synopsis, 6185), and August 6, 1884 (Synopsis, 6514), is also affirmed. (6875.) Treasury Department, April 18, 1885. Cloaks of wool and fur — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 1st instant, transmitting the appeal (9285 fc) of Mr. M. Stern from your assessment of duty at the rate of 45 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem on certain so-called "fur cloaks" imported, per Germanic, November 16, 1883, returned by the appraiser at your port as " wool cloaks" (T. I., new, 367), and claimed by the appellant to be dutiable as "manufactures of fur," at 30 per cent ad valorem (T. I., new, 435). WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 137 The appraiser reports that the goods in question are worsted cloaks, lined with fur, and that fur is, without doubt, the component material of chief value. The appellant claims that the value of the wool in these articles is only about one- tenth of the value of the entire cloak. Under Department's decision of November 21, 1884 (Synopsis, 6653), paragraph 367, T. I., new, which provides for " cloaks * * * composed wholly or in part of wool," etc., governs in such cases without regard to the quantity of wool contained, pro- vided it is an appreciable quantity. The question of the comparative value of the wool and other component materials is equally immaterial. The entire outside of the garments is wool. It is certainly an appreciable quantity. They are, therefore, dutiable under the paragraph cited, and your assessment thereunder, in accordance with the above decision, is hereby affirmed. (6862.) Treasury Department, April 29, 1885. u Wool waste " classified as scoured wool. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 17th instant, transmitting the appeal (9693 k) of the Hockanum Company, by George Maxwell, treasurer, from your assessment of duty at the rate of 30 per cent ad valorem on certain so-called wool waste imported, per Roman, Jan- nary 28, 1885, and returned by the appraiser as scoured wool, dutiable under T. I., new, 356 and 357, and Department's decision of July 13, 1883 (Synopsis, 5820). (a) It appears from the appraiser's report that the merchandise in question is composed of about 50 per cent of broken tops, laps, and slubbings, the balance being fine rovings, with a very small percentage of spinner's waste in it; that the noil has all been combed out, leaving this the " cream" of the wool, and that the best part of it can be recombed to a "top" without 2 per cent waste; also, that it has been thoroughly scoured. a The article appears to be produced in the following manner, viz : In drawing the wool for spin- ning, on passing the last drawing machine the wool is wound on a spool or ball and thence onto the spindles. That portion remaining on the spool or hall which will not unwind is torn off, and is called ' k slubbings," and is the article covered by this appeal. It came from wool which had been scoured, and duty was assessed upon it at the rate imposed by law on scoured wools of class 1, valued at less than 32 cents per pound when un cleaned, under Schedule L of the tariff of 1874. (T. I,, old, 233 and 234.) The appellants claim that the article is wool waste, dutiable under the following clause in Schedule L: "Woolen rags, shoddy, mungo, waste, and flocks, 12 cents a pound." (T. I., old, 241.) The first inquiry is what description or condition of wool is meant by the "woolen waste " used in the tariff. One of the definitions given by Worcester to the term waste is " something of little or no account or value, as the refuse of cotton or silk." There is an article known in the trade as wool | waste which is the product of the first combing, noils being the product of the last combing. It is worth from 12 to 15 cents a pound less than the wool from which it comes. The waste from wool resulting from the various processes of manufacture is known by the various names of card waste, spinning waste, thread waste, etc. This description of waste is sometimes sold as it comes from the mill, and sometimes after it has undergone the so-called " opening " process, and it appears to have been imported for the past twenty-five years. The article covered by this appeal is much more valuable than that before described, and can he used as wool, either with other wool or by itself, requiring only to be put through the preparers, etc. It is more valuable than noils from the same wool, which, by Decision 1404, are subject to duty as wool. Upon these facts, the Department is of opinion that the article under consideration is not " woolen waste " within, the meaning of the tariff law, and hence the claim of the appellants is rejected and your decision affirmed. For your guidance in other like cases, the Department has to state that, following the principle laid down in the decision above cited, this article must pay the same duty as the wool from which it came. The only other question is whether it shall be classed as washed or scoured wool. The sample submitted appears to have been partially scoured, but not at all thoroughly. Upon boiling a sample it was found that the grease was about 8 per cent of the material. The Department is inclined to the opinion that its true classification is as washed wool of the first class, dutiable at 20 cents a pound and 22 per cent ad valorem. A definite decision, however, will only be made on that point wnen a case shall be presented in which the rate of duty shall be claimed in the protest. (5820— July 13, 1883.) 138 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. It is understood that in importations of wool waste there are always small quan- tities of laps and rovings mixed in, which manufacturers do not take the trouble to remove; hut from an inspection of the samples submitted, of the present and other importations by the appellants, it is apparent that in this instance the percentage of tops, laps, and rovings is largely in excess of that found in the other cases, and that it composes the greater portion of the importation in question. The presence of a small percentage of spinners' waste can not be allowed to change the rate of duty otherwise applicable to merchandise of this character, which, under the decision cited (synopsis 5820), must pay the same duty as the wool from which it came. The appraiser reports that unwashed Australian wool of the quality of this stock would cost in England 14 pence, or about 28 cents per pound. This, under para- graph 357, T. I., new, would be dutiable at 10 cents per pound; but having been scoured, as already stated, it becomes liable, under T. I., new, 356, to three times that rate, or 30 cents per pound, and your assessment of duty in accordance there- with is hereby affirmed. (68 §4.) Treasury Department, May 19, 1885. Worsted dress goods. — In the case of Ellison ei al. v. Hartranft, recently decided in the U. S. circuit court for the eastern district of Pennsylvania, which involved the question of duties upon dress goods made in part of worsted and weighing over 4 ounces to the square yard, a verdict was rendered in favor of the plaintiffs. The question involved in the case was whether the proviso iu paragraph 365, act of March 3, 1883, which specifies that "all such goods weighing over 4 ounces per square yard shall pay a duty of 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem/ 7 " relates to the women's and children's dress goods, coat linings, Italian cloths, and goods of like description, composed in part of wool, worsted, the hair of the alpaca, goat, or other animals," mentioned in the beginning of said paragraph. This question was decided in the negative and judgment rendered for the plaintiffs. The Attorney-General having certified that no writ of error will be sued out the Department acquiesces in the finding of the court. You are therefore authorized to take the necessary steps for the settlement of the judgment in the suit, and for the discontinuance of all other similar suits now pending at your port covering goods of this character, where the provisions of sec- tion 2931, Eevised Statutes, have been fully complied with, by reclassifying the goods and forwarding certified statements for a refund of the excessive duties, with legal interest and costs. This decision will be accepted as a rule of action in such cases, and revokes the ruling of June 28, 1884. (Synopsis, 6429.) (6924.) Treasury Department, May 21, 1885. Woolen goods — Reappraisement basis for duties. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 18th instant, reporting on the appeal (9896 h) of Fred. Victor & Ache! is from your decision assessing duty on the reappraised value of certain woolen goods imported, per RJiynland, March 14, 1885. It appears that duty was assessed on the value, which was found by you on reap- praisement under article 470 of the Regulations, the merchant and general appraiser having made separate reports of value, and that the appellants now claim that the reappraisement should be reopened because the merchant appraiser has, since filing his return, requested the recall of the invoice for reconsideration. You state that the request of the merchant appraiser was not received by you until long after you had acted on the case and had rendered your decision under the WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 139 requirements of the said article 470 of the Eegulations; that the proceedings on the appraisement and reappraisement were regular and in due form, and that in deter- mining the question of dutiable value as between the general appraiser and the merchant appraiser you concurred with the views of the latter. In this case the reappraisement was rendered complete by the filing of your deci- sion, and in the opinion of the Department the same can not be reopened except upon it being made to appear that irregularities occurred in the proceedings or that cleri- cal errors are manifest in the returns. After completion of a reappraisement it can not be reopened at the mere request of the merchant who acted as appraiser, for his functions as such appraiser ceased upon the rendering and acceptance of his report of value. No in egularities or clerical errors having occurred, the Department decides that the reappraisement in this case is final and conclusive, under the pro\isions of sec- tion 2930, Revised Statutes. The claim of the appellants is therefore rejected. (6930o) Treasury Department, June 1, 1885. Paintings on worsted. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 18th ultimo, transmitting the appeal (555 I) of Messrs. Ferdinand Bing & Co. from your assessment of duty at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem on certain so-called "paintings on worsted" imported, per Normandie, October 7, 1884, and returned by the appraiser at your port as manufactures of wool and worsted, valued at over 80 cents a pound, and dutiable under T. L, new, 362. The appellants claim that the articles are' dutiable at the rate of 30 per cent ad valorem, as paintings, under T. I., new, 470. The appraiser reports that the merchandise consists of manufactures of wool and worsted in the form of panels or screens, with paintings thereon. The Department is of the opinion that such articles are not paintings within the meaning of the paragraph, but are manufactures of wool and worsted, and do not lose their character as such by being painted upon for purposes of ornamentation. Your assessment of duty is accordingly affirmed. (6917.) Treasury Department, June 3, 1885. Woolen and cotton umbrella cloths.— The Department is in receipt of your letters of the 6th and 11th ultimo, submitting the appeals (9977 k and 71 1) of Matthew Binney's Sons from your assessment of duty at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem on certain umbrella cloths, composed of worsted and cotton, imported by them, per Ceplialonia, April 23, and Pavonia, March 4, 1885. The appellants claim that the goods in question are Italian cloths, and entitled to entry at the rate of 7 cents per square yard and 40 per cent ad valorem. Upon investigation it is found that the goods are composed of the same materials (worsted and cotton) as Italian cloths, but that they differ from such cloths in having stripes or borders woven at the sides, which render them fit exclusively for the manufacture of umbrellas. The provision of law (T. L, new, 365) imposing duty on Italian cloths embraces also " goods of like description," but the Department concurs with the appraiser in the opinion that the merchandise in question, being commercially known as " umbrella cloth/' does not come within the scope of that provision, the more especially so as it differs in an essential point from Italian cloths, viz, in having a border which is woven in the fabric, by reason of which it is unfit for the uses to which Italian cloths are put. (6951.) 140 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Treasury Department, June 27, 1885. MonAiR noils. — The Department's attention has been called to an importation into your port of 20 hales of mohair noils, per British Crown, June 9, 1885, which was made by George H. Patton & Co., and subjected to a duty of 2\ cents per pound as third-class wool. It is represented that the mohair noils in question are similar to those which were the subject of decision 6707, and that they are composed of long staples, and are capable of being used in the manufacture of various fabrics other than carpets. An inspection of samples affirms the correctness of these representations. The merchandise, however, is not third-class wool, but hair of the goat, which is specially provided for in Schedule K. (T. I., new, 358.) Referring, therefore, to Department's instructions to you of this date, on the appeals (1531 I and 1532 I) of John and James Dobson, you are directed to reliquidate the entry of the said mohair noils, by classifying them under the provision of the tariff above mentioned, specially applicable thereto, and to take the necessary steps for collecting the duties still due the Government. (6998.) Treasury Department, June 27, 1885. Cashmere-goat hair. — The Department duly received your letter of the 6th instant, transmitting the appeals (1531 1 and 1532 Z) of Messrs. John and James Dobson from your assessment of duty at the rate of 10 cents per pound on two importations of so-called "gray China wool," per British Prince and British Crown, April 15 and 30, 1885. The merchandise was returned by the appraiser as " China Cashmere-goat hair," and was classified under the provisions (T. I., new, 358) of Schedule K, act of March 3, 1883, for wools of the second class, of value under 30 cents per pound. The appellants claim that the merchandise is wool of the third class, valued at over 12 cents per pound, entitled to entry at the rate of 5 cents per pound under the provisions (T. I., new, 359) of Schedule K, and they contend that, if the classification as "China Cashmere-goat hair" was technically correct, the proper rate of duty would be 5 cents per pound, for the reason that the article is not suitable for comb- ing purposes, and can only be used as carpet wool, therefore should be admitted under the Department's decision (Synopsis, 5743) of June 2, 1883, wherein it was held that certain mohair noils, consisting of short hairs, combed from the long hairs of the Angora goat, were entitled to entry under the provisions for wool of class 3 as unfit for combing purposes, and intended and available only for use in making carpets. From the appraiser's special report accompanying your letter it appears that the merchandise was sold at the London wool sales in January, 1885, as " Cashmere-goat hair," from which fact, and from the opinion of the best judges of wools at Philadel- phia, to whom samples were submitted, there can be no doubt but that the merchan- dise is what is kijLPwn to commerce as u Cashmere-goat hair," and is not the article known commercially as China wool. It has apparently been taken from the skins of slain kids, and is a short and very fine staple, but filled with coarse hairs, which detract largely from its value. The appraiser at Boston, and the wool expert in his office, report that the mer- chandise "is unquestionably China Cashmere-goat hair, known commercially as such;" that Cashmere-goat hair can be and is combed in England and America; that it is not used by carpet manufacturers, but by manufacturers of ladies' dress- goods, etc., in which use the presence of the long, coarser hairs in the cloth adds to its value by showing from what materials it is made. It also appears that the sam- ple of the merchandise submitted corresponds with sample (No. 53) of Cashmere- goat hair, class 2, in the cabinet of standard samples, prepared by Mr. George WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 141 William Bond, and accepted by the Department, and is markedly different from the samples of " China wool," class 3, in that cabinet of standard samples. It is plain, from all the evidence before the Department, that the merchandise is Cashmere-goat hair, commercially known, and not China wool. The appellants rely upon the Department's decision (Synopsis, 5743) of June 2, 1883, which accords with an unpublished letter of this Department, addressed to you under date of September 14, 1883, in which it was decided that certain 56 bales of " Cashmere-goat hair" entered by them as "East India carpet wool," class 3, which you classified as wool of class 2, was entitled to admission as wool of class 3, on the ground that the article was not fit for combing purposes, and was used as "a substi- tute for cattle hair to mix with wool or shoddy for the manufacture of the lowest class of carpets and woolen goods " — the view being adopted that it was the inten- tion of Congress to include in class 2 only such hair of the alpaca, goat, and other like animals as is fit for combing purposes. The doctrine laid down in these decisions seems to be clearly at variance with the law. The tariff act of March 3, 1883 (par. 354, T. L, new), after describing certain wools to be included in class 2 as combing wools, adds "and also all hair of the alpaca, goat, and other like animals;" and paragraph 358 (T. I., new) provides that "wools of the second class, and all hair of the alpaca, goat, and other like animals," shall pay duty at 10 or 12 cents per pound, according to value. This language is explicit and admits of no other interpretation than that all goat hair is dutiable at the same rates as wools of the second class. The quality of such hair, or the use for which it may be available or intended, is immaterial and can not affect its classification under the law. The Department, therefore, holds that the merchandise is properly dutiable at the rate assesed by you, under the said special provision (T. I., new, 358) for "all hair of the ' * * * goat, and other like ani- mals," and affirms your decision in the premises. Decision 5743 and any other rulings to the contrary will be considered as revoked. (6999.) Treasury Department, July 22, 1885. Wool — classification of. — The Department has received your letter of the 23d ultimo, with accompanying report from the appraiser at your port, in relation to the classification for duty of certain Scotch wool, known as "cheviot britch," to which your attention was called by Department's letter of April 27 last, transmitting sample of the article, with copy of a dispatch from the United States consul at Liv- er j)ool respecting the same, and reports on the subject from Mr. George William Bond and the appraiser at Boston. The consul represents that the wool in question is of a kind included in Schedule K (T. I., new, 354) of the tariff act of March 3, 1883, as class 2, or combing wool, it being "other like combing wools of English blood," finer in quality than a large proportion of the "britch" from Leicester, Lincolnshire, Cotswold, etc., and of value in the markets of England and Scotland about the same (9c/. to 10d. per pound) as Lincolnshire fleeces ; nevertheless, that large quantities had been shipped from Scot- land to Philadelphia fictitiously invoiced as "white carpet britch" or "carpet britch," and had been admitted to entry as class 3, or carpet wool (T. I., new, 355). Mr. Bond pronounces the article "cheviot britch," and of good quality for that grade, consequently subject to duty as "second-class wool." It is from the Cheviot sheep of Scotland, kindred by race with Leicester, Lincolnshire, Cotswold, etc., and though not specially named in Schedule K of the tariff act of March 3, 1883, falls under the designation therein (T. I., new, 354) as "like combing wools of English blood," having been so classed and recognized since the passage of the tariff act of 1867, from which the present law was copied. He maintains, therefore, that it is < 142 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. immaterial to the question whether "cheviot britch" is or can he used for carpets, as the classification of the tariff places it in the second class. The appraiser at Boston reports that " cheviot wool" is used quite extensively in the manufacture of Scotch cloths of a coarse fabric, and, when mixed with merino woo], of cloths of a finer texture ; also in the manufacture of ladies' dress goods, and, to a limited extent, the coarser portion for carpet purposes. It is not known com- mercially as carpet wool, neither is its general or characteristic use for carpet pur- poses. It is known commercially, bought and sold, as combing wool, and being of English blood, like Leicester, Cotswold, Lincolnshire, &c, in character, it is specially designated and provided for by race or blood, as "like combing wools of English blood." Although you say you have no hesitation in expressing " entire concurrence with the interpretation placed upon the law governing this class of merchandise by Mr. Bond," it is found that the practice at your port in the classification of such mer- chandise has not been in accordance therewith. It appears from the report of the appraiser at your port that ifc is clear to him that the wool produced from the Cheviot sheep belongs to the class known as " combing wools," and dealers in your city have expressed the opinion that the sample fur- nished by the consul at Liverpool was taken from Cheviot sheep, nevertheless he has heretofore returned such wool, imported at your port, as wool of class 3. In explanation of his action, he refers specially to an unpublished decision of this Department, dated September 4, 1883, in which it was held that certain Cashmere goat hair, imported by Messrs. John and James Dobson, represented as unfit for combing purposes, and intended as carpet stock, was entitled to admission as wool of class 3, and he says that, since the issuance of that decision, he has applied the principle therein laid down to the "britch" wool in question received at your port, which he states has been almost exclusively purchased by certain carpet manufacturers, and therefore used for uo other purpose than making yarns for the manufacture of carpets. From official reports on file in this Department it appears that as early as August, 1882, an importation of so-called " cheviot britch" wool, invoiced at 10$. per pound and described as "white carpet britch" or "carpet britch," was admitted to entry at your port as wool of class 3, and that since that date, up to recently, numerous large importations, of like description and value, have been admitted to entry by you at the same rate of duty, notwithstanding the appraiser's attention had been called to the fact that the wool was from Cheviot sheep, and samples of it have been so classed by experts at your port and at New York and Boston. Furthermore, it appears that during the time he was passing this "cheviot britch" the appraiser frequently had before him importations of regular fleece wool, of good quality, from the "black-faced" sheep of Scotland, the only wool grown in Great Britain authori- tatively recognized as belonging to class 3, invoiced, as a rule, more than 5*0 per cent below such "britch" wool. The so-called "britch" from Cheviot fleeces is known commercially in Scotland as " cheviot britch " {white or laid) and not as "white carpet britch" or "carpet britch ;" hence it was improperly invoiced and entered under the latter descriptions, and it is assumed that the importers had knowledge of its true character and com- mercial designation when they imported it. Assuming that all the so-called " white carpet britch" or "carpet britch" im- ported at your port was Cheviot wool, the Department can see no justification for its classification as wool of class 3. It appears to have been so returned by the appraiser for more than a year prior to the issuance of the decision of September 14? 1883, quoted by the appraiser, as well as since the publication of the Department's decision (Synopsis, 6028) of November 19, 1883, relating to noils from the wools of Cotswold and Leicester sheep, and which is plainly applicable to the merchandise in question. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 143 The Department adheres to the doctrine laid down in this latter decision as to classification according to race or blood, not only of all wools, hut also of " all hair of the alpaca, goat, and other like animals," without regard to quality, condition, or intended use of the article imported. You are directed to cause your practice to conform to the views herein expressed, and to classify the said "cheviot britch" as class 2, combing wools, at the appro- priate rate of duty according to value per pound. (7034.) Treasury Department, July 2$, 1$85. Mixed goods— silk and wool.— Referring to your letter of the 21st instant, making inquiry as to the rate of duty applicable to certain dress goods composed of silk and wool, silk chief value, you are informed that the provisions of paragraph 383, T. I., new, for "all goods, wares, and merchandise, not specially enumerated, or provided for in this act, made of silk, or of which silk is the component material of chief value," are not applicable in cases where the merchandise in question falls within the list of specially designated articles embraced in the wool tariff (Schedule K). (7037.) Treasury Department, August 6, 1885. Carpet wool. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 21st ultimo, transmitting the appeals (8678 1 and 8679 1) of James Lees & Sons from your de- cision assessing duty at the rate of 5 cents per pound on certain carpet wool im- ported by them, per British Princess, August 31, 1884, and Pennsylvania, September 8, 1884, which the appellants claim to be dutiable at the rate of 2\ cents per pound. It appears that the wool in question is third-class carpet wool, and that it costs under 12 cents per pound, without adding to the price thereof the cost of the bags in which it was contained. The cost of the bags, however, was added by you to its value, thereby making the apparent value of the wool 12 cents per pound, and hence you assessed duty at the rate of 5 cents per pound. Upon due investigation of the matter, it is ascertained that wool of this character is classified at both New York and Boston at a duty of 2\ cents per pound, it not being the practice at those ports to add to its value the cost of the bags. The practice thus prevailing at those ports, of excluding the cost of bags, is, in the opinion of the Department, correct and proper under the statute, and therefore it is held that, as the wool is valued at less than 12 cents per pound, the appeal is well taken. You will reliquidate the entries accordingly, and take the necessary steps for refunding the excessive duties. (7065.) Treasury Department, August 7, 1885. Wool taken from sheep in Barbados. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 3d instant, transmitting the appeal (23 m) of A. D. Straus & Co. from your decision assessing duty on certain wool imported, per Portia, from Barbados on the 13th of April last. The appellants claim that the wool is entitled to free entry, because it is the product of sheep and lambs of domestic origin which were exported alive to Barbados. The appraiser reports that the wool is not the product of American sheep, but of sheep of Canadian or English blood. It is immaterial, however, where the sheep originated, inasmuch as the question to be decided is one relating entirely to the wool. 144 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. The wool, whether taken from American or foreign sheep in Barbados, is, as such, of foreign production, and when imported is not entitled to free entry as claimed by the appellants or otherwise. Your decision is affirmed. (7067.) Treasury Department, August 24, 1885, Carded goat's hair. The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 3d iustant, transmitting the appeal (9019 1) of Messrs. Dingelstedt & Co. from your assessment of duty at the rate of 20 cents per pound on certain so-called wool waste imported, per Alaska, February 10, 1885, and returned by the appraiser at your port as u carded goat's hair, class 2, valued under 30 cents in the unwashed condition, dutiable under T. I., new, 358," and that, having been selected and then manipulated in the carding machine, it becomes liable under T. L, new, 356, to twice the duty to which it would be otherwise subject. The merchandise consists of China Cashmere goat's hair, from which the long hairs have been combed, and which has apparently been carded. Eeports from the appraisers at your port and at Boston, agree that the article is not wool waste, but the claim that it has been manipulated for the purpose of evad- ing duty does not seem to be substantiated by the report from the latter officer, who states that similar merchandise has been imported at that port and is commercially known as Cashmere noils, and has been passed for duty at the rate of 10 or 12 cents per pound, according to cost. The Department is of the opinion, therefore, that while the article is not woo^ waste, but is hair of the Cashmere goat, dutiable under T. I., new, 358, according to cost, yet the evidence of its having been imported in other than ordinary condi- tion or of its having been manipulated for the purpose of evading duty, is not suf- ficient to warrant the imposition of double duty, under T. L, new, 356. You are authorized to reliquidate the entry accordingly. (7081.) Treasury Department, August 29, 1885. Hair yarn. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 12th instant, sub- mitting the appeal (670 m) of Schofield, Mason & Co., from your assessment of duty at the rate of 10 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem on certain black cattle- hair yarn imported by them, per Lord Gough, July 16, 1885, and classified as " worsted yarn under 30 cents," or " manufactures of hair of ' other animals/" under the pro- vision therefor in the act of March 3, 1883 (T. I., new 363.) The appraiser reports that the yarn is a manufacture of hair, whether of the goat or other animal he is unable to determine, but in either case dutiable at the rate assessed. The appellants claim that it is manufactured wholly from cattle hair, and is enti- tled to entry at the rate of 30 per cent ad valorem, under the provision in the act above cited (T. I., new, 445), for " hair-cloth, known as i crinoline-cloth/ and all other manufactures of hair not specially enumerated or provided for." Under date of September 5, 1874 (synopsis, 1940), the Department decided that the provision of law then in force, which is reproduced in paragraph 445 of the act of March 3, 1883, related wholly to manufactures associated with the terms given in said paragraph, viz, crinoline cloth or manufactures of the same material. The yarn in question, not being associated with, or similar to, crinoline cloth, the claim of the appellants is rejected. (709$.) WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 145 Treasury Department, August 29, 1885. Woolen goods — Moquette. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 12th instant, submitting the appeal (667 m) of D. & J. C. Noblit & Co. from your assessment of duty at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem on certain moquette imported by them, per British Princess, June 24, 1885. The appellants claim that the goods in question, which are manufactured of worsted and cotton, are made of the same materials, and by the same process as patent velvet carpets, and by assimilation are entited to entry at same rate of duty, on the ground that they are similar in quality, texture, and use as such carpets. The article in question, although similar in appearance to velvet carpet, is not carpet, and is never used for the same purposes, but is used for covering seats in railroad cars, barber chairs, etc. The Department decides that the goods are properly dutiable at the rate assessed; under the provision in the act of March 3, 1883 (T. I., new, 363), for "all manufac- tures of every description composed wholly or in part of worsted," and your assess- ment of duty thereon is hereby affirmed. (7094.) Treasury Department, September 29, 1885. Goatskins avith hair or wool on. — 1 transmit herewith a letter, dated the 17th instant, with two inclosures, from Mr. G. Amsiuck, president, in which, in behalf of the importers of goatskins at your port and at Philadelphia, complaint is made of your action in assessing duty on the hair of common goatskins, imported for manu- facture into morocco, it being alleged that the hair is unfit for commercial purposes, the same having to be removed from the skin by the use of lime, which renders it almost valueless. From the statements contained in such communication, and also from those made to me personally by the committee there mentioned, it seems that it has been the practice heretofore to admit such skins free of duty, under the special provision in the free list (T. I., new, 709), for u goatskins, raw/' and that it is only recently that they have been subjected to duty. The question as to the classification of raw goatskins was the subject of Depart- ment's ruling of February 14, 1877 (synopsis, 3112), and it was thereby held that while Angora goatskins were liable to duty for the wool contained thereon, the skins of goats containing but a small " degree of Angora blood/' and of the common Cape goats, were entitled to free entry, under such special provision in the law. No good reason is perceived at this time for making any change in the practice which followed such decision, and if the skins now imported, and which are the subject of the inclosed communication, are of the character mentioned in such rul- ing, you are directed to continue such practice and to be governed by the decision. (7147.) Treasury Department, October 27, 1885. Wool and rubber waterproof cloaks. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 22d instant, transmitting the appeal (4996 m) of John Wanamaker from your decision assessing duty at the rate of 45 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem on certain wool and rubber waterproof cloaks imported into your port, per Lord Clive, March 31, 1885, which the appellant claims to be dutiable at the rate of 30 per cent ad valorem, as manufactures of India rubber. The cloaks in question being, as the appraiser reports, manufactured in part of wool, are dutiable at the rate assessed by you, under the special provision in Schedule K, T. I., new, 367, for " cloaks" " composed wholly or in part of wool/' Your decision is affirmed. (71 §4.) H. Mis. 94 10 146 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Treasury Department, October SI, 1885. Hair on raw goatskins. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 19th inst, transmitting an appeal (4672 m) of Wight & Harper from your decision assessing duty at the rate of 10 cents per pound on certain so-called "hair on raw goatskins" imported by them, per Persian Monarch, on the 24th ultimo, which the appellants claim to be exempt from duty under the provision in the free list (T. I., new, 709) for "goatskins, raw." It appears from the report of the appraiser that the skins in question from which the hair or wool in question was taken are Angora goatskins, which are only exempt from duty when imported without the wool (free list, T. I., new, 719), and that the hair or wool in question, which was taken therefrom is a fine quality of combing wool, and of the same if not a better class than the wool or hair of the Angora goat, which is usually imported, and which is combed by the largest combers in the United States for use, in connection with other wools, in the manufacture of ladies' dress goods. An inspection of a sample of the importation in question, when compared with samples of the ordinary Angora goat wool of hair, satisfies the Department that it is a very fine article of combing wool, containing a large percentage of Angora blood. The merchandise is dutiable, under Schedule K. T. 1., new, 358, being valued at 30 cents or less per pound, at 10 cents per pound, and your decision is affirmed. (7194.) Treasury Department, November 11, 1885. "Angora goatskins." — Referring to Department's letter to you of the 4th instant and previous correspondence, in relation to Angora goatskins with the wool on, imported from the Cape of Good Hope, you are informed that the matter has been carefully investigated and considered, and that the Department has arrived at the following conclusions : That these Angora skins, the product of the Cape of Good Hope, are not the real Angora goatskins of commerce, but skins of a bastard or cross-blood goat of partial Angora blood, and that while some of the skins show such blood in but a small degree, others are of superior quality and show strong traces thereof. That the wool or hair on these last-mentioned skins, as has been lately ascertained upon an actual importation at Philadelphia, consists of a very fine quality of comb- ing wool of the same, if not superior class to the wool or hair of the Angora goat as usually imported, which latter is combed by the largest combers in the United States, for use in connection with other wools in the manufacture of ladies' dress goods. That the hair or wool on skins of this superior character is liable to duty, as has been heretofore held by the Department, as well as by its ruling of February 14, 1877 (Synopsis, 3112 a), as several times since, and that the Department is con- sequently unable under the law to grant your request for passing them free of duty under the provision for goat-skins, raw. To admit such Angora skins of superior quality free of duty would open the door to fraud on the revenue. A sufficient examination of the bales can be made to determine the number of superior skins without destroying their identity, and without causing delay or embarrassment to the importer. (7206a.) Treasury Department, November IS, 1885. Ink blotters in part op wool. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 10th instant, submitting the appeal (6255 m) of Mr. C. F. Rumpp from your a See No. 7147, WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 147 assessment of duty at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem on certain shell blotters imported by him, per Bugia, September 11, 1885. The articles in question, it appears, are ink blotters, made of paper and woolen cloth, surmounted by a shell, which serves as a handle for the blotters, and the appellant claims that duty should be assessed thereon either at the rate of 15 per cent ad valorem, as "manufactures of paper/' or 25 per cent ad valorem, as "manu- factures of shell," or that the appropriate duty should be levied on the several parts. The several parts of the blotters being securely glued together, the Department's decision of July 25, 1877 (synopsis 3319), which applies only to machinery, or similar articles composed of different materials, which are easily separable for purposes of classification, is not applicable. The woolen cloth, it appears, forms a material and appreciable element in the formation of the blotters, so as to be taken into account in their classification, and the Department is of opinion that they were properly classified under the provisions of section 2499, act of March 3, 1883, and its decision of November 21, 1884 (synop- sis, 6653), on cloaks composed in part of wool. Your assessment of duty is therefore affirmed. (7208.) Treasury Department, November W, 1885. Tweed caps. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 22d ultimo, sub- mitting the appeal (5014 m) of D. P. Ilsley & Co. from your assessment of duty at the rate of 40 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem on certain tweed caps imported by them, per Missouri, September 26, 1885. The appellants claim that the caps in question are dutiable at the rate of 30 per cent ad valorem, under the provision in paragraph 400, act of March 3, 1883, for "hats * * * for men, women, and children. " From an examination of the samples submitted, it is found that the articles in question are caps made of tweed cloth, some being without visors, others having a single visor in front, and still others two visors, one in front and one behind. Under date of November 26, 1883 (synopsis, 6044), the Department decided that caps are not hats within the meaning of the law, and as the articles in question are caps in fact, and known commercially by that name, the claim of the appellants is rejected. The Department is of opinion that they were properly classified under the provision in paragraph 366 of said act forswearing apparel of every description * * * composed wholly or in part of wool, worsted, the hair of the alpaca, goat, or other animal," and your assessment of duty thereon is hereby affirmed. (7 2 14.) Treasury Department, November 21 > 1885. Wool tops. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 18th instant, transmitting the appeal (6914 m) of Messrs. Stoddard, Lovering & Co. from your decis- ion assessing duty at the rate of 60 cents per pound on certain u wool tops" imported by them, per Iberian, on the 4th instant, which the appellants claim to be dutiable at the rate of 18 cetits per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem, under the provision in Schedule K (T. I., new, 363) for manufactures of worsted, valued at above 4 cents and not exceeding 60 cents per pound. These wool tops, as appears from the special report of the appraiser and an inspec- tion of samples, are the combings or cardings of fine Australian (clothing) wool, and are produced by scouring the wool and then passing it, in the usual manner, through the combing or carding machine. The claim of the appellants that wool tops are dutiable under the provision for manufactures of worsted was disposed of by Department's ruling of February 17, 148 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 1881 (synopsis, 4777), wherein it was held that wool tops were in no sense manu- factures of wool or worsted, but come within the category of unmanufactured wools, g ubject to the duties prescribed therefor, according to condition, class, etc. In this case the wool tops come from clothing wools, which, the appraiser states, are valued in the unwashed condition under 30 cents per pound, and, if imported in that condition, would have been dutiable at the rate of 10 cents per pound; but, having been scoured, they become dutiable, under the provision of said schedule (T. I., new, 356) at three times the rate prescribed for wool in the unwashed condi- tion, making 30 cents per pound; and, furthermore, inasmuch as wool tops consti- tute a condition of wool other than the ordinary one in which wool is imported, this importation becomes liable to double the last rate, or twice the duty to Avhich it would be otherwise subject. The wool, therefore, being scoured, and also being imported in an extraordinary condition, is dutiable at the rate of 60 cents per pound, and your decision is hereby affirmed. (7217). Treasury Department, November 23, 1885. Felt shoes. — Referring to your letter of the 26th ultimo, concerning the classifica- tion for duty of imported felt shoes, I have to state that upon due consideration the Department is of the opinion that the classification as " wearing apparel, " at the rate of 40 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem, under T. I., new, 366, as fol- lowed at the port of New York, should be adopted as the correct classification under the tariff acts, The provisions of T. I., new, 367, for cloaks, etc., and other " outside garments/' can hardly be considered applicable, as shoes do not assimilate to cloaks or any of the articles therein specifically mentioned, nor would they be considered as "out- side garments" in the ordinary acceptation of the term. This view does not conflict with that expressed in Department's decision of November 23, 1876 (synopsis, 3023), on woolen overboots, inasmuch as the articles covered by T. I., new, 366 and 367, were all included in one paragraph (247) under the old tariff. You will be governed accordingly. (7218.) Treasury Department, December $, 1885. Repacking of wool in warehouse. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 23d ultimo, relative to the application of Mr. D. A. Hollister for per- mission to repack in bonded warehouse certain 6,082 pounds of wool intended to be withdrawn for exportation in bond by way of San Francisco. It appears that the wool is packed in nineteen bales, not pressed, but merely filled by hand, and that it is desired to repack it into a smaller number of pressed bales, for convenience in transportation, the original bales being unwieldy. In the absence of any provision of law or regulations to authorize repacking of merchandise in bond, other than drugs and chemicals, except when repacking is necessary for preservation of the goods, the application must be denied. (See article 679 of the General Regulations.) (7232.) Treasury Department, December 16, 1885. Wool imported. — The Department duly received your letter of the 21st ultimo, in which you submitted a question as to whether imported wool (which under the statute pays duty according to its value per pound), when advanced in value on WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 149 appraisement over 10 per cent above the entered value, but not sufficient to render it liable to a higher rate of duty, is liable to the additional (penal) duty of 20 per cent ad valorem which is prescribed by section 2900 of the Revised Statutes. The question was duly referred to the Solicitor of the Treasury, who on the 9th instant submitted an opinion, a copy of which is herewith inclosed, from which it will be seen that he advises that in such cases where an appraisement is made by the appraiser for the purpose of determining the values of imported merchandise, the advance in value of 10 per cent renders the exaction of the said additional duty i impera- tive by the collector, who has no discretion in the matter, because the law fixes his duty. This opinion seems to accord with article 564 of the Regulations, which pre- scribes that if the specific duty is all dependent upon value, the additional duty attaches, if the value is advanced 10 per cent or more; and it is apprehended that in the case of all importations where it is essential, under the statute, that the goods should be appraised, the additional duty attaches whenever the appraised value exceeds the entered value by 10 per cent or more. The following is the Solicitor's opinion referred to above: Department of Justice, Office of the Solicitor of the Treasury, Washington, D. C, December 9, 1885. Sir: The question is asked me whether the additional duty of 20 per cent ad valorem is incurred under section 2900, Revised Statutes, when the appraised value of wool exceeds by 10 per cent the value declared in the entry, though such appraised value is not sufficient in amount to subject the wool to the higher rate of duty. The law imposes duties on wool at specific rates regulated by value. For example : wools valued at 30 cents or less a pound are subject to a duty of 10 cents a pound; exceeding 30 cents, 12 cents a pound. Section 2900 is one of several statutes enacted to require importers to make entry of their goods at their true value.* In the present case the duty imposed is not an ad valorem one; it is a specific duty of so much a pound, dependent on the appraised value of the pound. The main object of section 2900 is not, it seems to me, to collect duties. Its pur- pose is to compel importers to enter their goods at their proper value. For this pur- pose, when the invoice is produced and the entry is made, the importer is allowed to make such additions in the entry to the cost or value given in the invoice as he may see lit. Hut if, after entry, the appraised value of the goods exceeds by 10 per cent the entered value, the exaction of 20 per cent duty is made imperative on the collector. He is given no discretion in the matter, because the law fixes his duties. (5 Blatch., 38.) If I am right, it is immaterial to the question presented whether an advance by appraisement over the entered value increases the duty placed on the goods or not, so long as the appraisement increases the value 10 per cent or more over the entered value. Such increase being made, the collector is, under the law, to impose the 25 per cent additional duty. Very respectfully, A. McCue, Solicitor. The Hon. Secretary of the Treasury. Treasury Department, January 2, 1886. Matelasse, wool. — The Department duly received your letter of the 16th ultimo, transmitting the appeal (8584 m) of Meyer & Dickinson from your assessment of duty at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem on certain so-called matelass6 cloths imported, per JVaesland and Pennsylvania Railroad, October 30, 1885, and returned by the appraiser at your port as silk, wool, and cotton clothing, or manufactures of wool, dutiable under T. I., new, 365. * It applies to all goods procured by purchase or otherwise, the duty on which depends on their value. 150 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Reference being made in your letter to Department's decision of April 24, 1885, (synopsis, 6875), in support of your assessment of duty as aforesaid, it is deemed proper to call your attention to a clerical error jn said decision in the designation of the paragraph in Schedule K under which duties should be assessed. In cases where the merchandise is composed in part of wool, the hair of the alpaca, goat, or other animal, and does not fall within the specific provisions for women's and children's dress-goods, coat-linings, Italian cloths, and goods of like descrip- tion, found in paragraph 365, T. I., new, it should be classified for duty under the provisions therefor in paragraph 362 or 363 of the tariff, and not under paragraph 365, as aforesaid. The decision referred to will therefore be considered as corrected in the above particular, the principle therein set forth being in nowise modified. In the present case, it being understood that the merchandise is composed in part of wool and does not fall within the specific provisions of paragraph 365, it is duti- able at the rate assessed under T. I., new, 362, and your assessment of duty is accord- ingly affirmed. (7295.) Treasury Department, January 4, 1886. Carriage-robes and traveling rugs and blankets.— The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 29th ultimo reporting further on the appeal (6682 m) of Messrs. H. H. Schwietering, Stursberg & Co. from your assessment of duty at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem on certain wool and hair blankets imported by them, per Neckar, July 7, 1885. The appellants claim that the blankets in question are properly dutiable at the rate of 24 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 363, act of March 3, 1883. The appraiser reports that the articles in question are carriage robes or traveling rugs, which are not known commercially as blankets, and that they were classified as manufactures of wool and hair under paragraph 362, act of March 3, 1883. In view of the Department's decision of September 21, 1859 (not published), which held that articles of this character are not blankets within the meaning of the law, your assessment of duty thereon is hereby affirmed. (7 295.) Treasury Department, January 15, 1886. Leather jackets lined with wool. — The Department is in receipt of your let- ter of the 12th ultimo, transmitting the appeal (8295 m) of A. Knudsen from your assessment of duty at the rate of 40 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem on certain skin jackets imported, per Thingvalla, November 30, 1885, and returned by the appraiser at your port as wearing-apparel in part of wool, dutiable under the provisions of T. L, new, 366. It appears from the report of the appraiser that the articles in question are leather jackets or short coats, for men, lined throughout with wool flannel, and that, as there was no provision in the law for leather wearing-apparel, the merchandise was classi- fied as above. This classification is in accordance with the principle laid down in Department's decisions of April 18 (synopsis, 6862), May 2 (synopsis, 6897), and October 27, 1885 (synopsis, 7184), and your assessment of duty accordingly is hereby affirmed. (7Z17.) Treasury Department, January 27, 1886. Mousseline-de-laine dress goods. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 22d instant, transmitting the appeal (1330 o) of Messrs. Kaskel & Kaskelfrom WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 151 your decision assessing duty at the rate of 9 cents per square yard and 40 per cent ad valorem upon certain so-called flannels imported, per Amerique, October 1, 1885, which the appellants claim to he dutiable at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem. It appears, from the report of the appraiser and an inspection of a sample, that the merchandise in question is not flannel, but women's and children's dress goods, consisting of fabrics known as "mousseline-de-laine," manufactured of worsted. Being women's and children's dress goods, and being composed wholly of worsted, they are dutiable under the provisions of Schedule K (T. I., new, 365) for goods of that description, which is the rate assessed by you. Your decision is affirmed. (7331.) Treasury Department, February #7, 1886. Mexican wools. — The Department duly received your letter of the 25th ultimo, with inclosures, reporting in the matter of the appeal (1708 o) of Mr. James J. Haynes from your assessment of duty at the rate of 10 cents per pound on certain wool imported by him at Laredo on the 4th ultimo, and which was classified by your deputy at that port as wool of class 1, costing under 30 cents per pound, and dutiable under T. I., new, 357. The appellant claims that the wool in question is carpet wool, or wool of the third class, valued at less than 12 cents per pound, and dutiable, under T. I., new, 359, at the rate of 2£ cents per pound. The sample referred to by the appellant and forwarded by you has been duly submitted to the appraiser, examiner of wools, and Mr. George William Bond, wool expert, at Boston, all of whom agree that the sample in composed of a very poor quality of Mexican wool mixed with first class or merino wool (the proportion of merino wool on sorting the sample being found to be 24 per cent), audthat while the presence of wool of the first class renders the importation liable to the duty as- sessed, yet it would be manifestly unjust to assess that rate upon such poor material. This agrees in substance with the reports heretofore received by you from Balti- more and New York, based on other samples of the importation in question. The Department, therefore, decides that the wool in the present mixed condition is liable to duty at the rate assessed ; but in view of the opinions expressed by the customs officials at Boston, as above stated, you are authorized to have importa- tions of mixed wools of this character sorted for purposes of correct classification and to assess duty on the respective quantities of wool of the several classes in accordance with the rates provided therefor in the tariff. This course may be followed in the present case, and the entry adjusted accord- ingly, provided the merchandise still remains within your custody and control; otherwise, your assessment of duty will stand affirmed. The entry received with your letter is herewith returned. Sample returned under another cover. (7384.) Treasury Department, March 10, 1886. Worsted coatings, composed in part of wool. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 4th instant, submitting the appeal (4109 o) of Messrs. Sulz- bacher, Gitterman & Wedeles from your assessment of duty at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem, on certain worsted coatings (so called) imported by them, per Rialto, August 26, 1885. The appraiser reports that the goods in question were composed of wool, worsted, and cotton, and that the claim of the appellants that they contained no wool is incorrect. 152 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Goods composed in part of wool are expressly excluded from classification under paragraph 363, act of March 3, 1883, and your assessment of duty on the goods in question, under paragraph 362 of said act, as manufactures * * * made wholly or in part of wool," was correct, and is hereby affirmed. (7 402.) Treasury Department, March 29, 1886. Donskoi wool — The Department duly received your letters of the 28th of Novem- ber and 2d of December last, respectively, concerning the appeal (7513 m) of Wood & Payson, from your decision assessing duty at the rate of 7£ cents per pound on certain wool of the third class imported into your port, per European, September 7, 1885, which the appellants claim to be dutiable at the rate of 2£ cents per pound. The said wool consists of Russian wool known as Donskoi, a coarse carpet wool, which is valued at less than 12 cents per pound in an unwashed condition, and the question involved in this appeal is whether the wool is scoured, and liable to " three times the duty to which it would be subjected if imported unwashed 99 (T. I., new, 356), as classified by you, or whether it is simply washed, and as such liable to the single rate prescribed for third class (carpet-wools) in a washed or unwashed con- dition (T. I., new, 359), as claimed by the appellants. This wool, as an inspection of the samples shows, is in the condition in which similar wools have been imported for many years — that is, it has been washed after shearing, and contains about 10 per cent of dirt and impurities. These Russian Donskoi wools, as a large mass of testimony on file at the Department conclusively indicates, have for the past twenty years and more been imported into the United States in substantially the same condition as the wool in question, and until this instance have invariably been classified by the customs officers as washed ; that they have been and are now commercially recognized in Russia as washed, having only undergone the usual process of washing wools practiced in that country, and that manufacturers in the United States who purchase said wools subject them to the process of scouring before using. On the other hand, it is represented that because the wool is washed after it has been sheared from the sheep, and is in a com- paratively clean condition, it is scoured, but the proofs to sustain such representations are conflicting, unsatisfactory, and inconclusive. After careful consideration, the Department concludes that as the said wool is of the same character and in substantially the same condition as the Donskoi wools which have been for such a long period of time commercially known and classified as unscoured wools, there is no good reason at this time (the more especially in the absence of any new legislation on the subject) to change the practice by classifying and subjecting it to the greatly increased duty now proposed. It is, therefore, held that the appeal is well taken, and that the appellants are entitled to a reliquidation of their entry in accordance with their claim. The views herein expressed will also apply to the entries of all importations of such wools in like condition which await liquidation at your port. ("7438.) Treasury Department, April 20, 1886. Wool and mohair noils. — I am in receipt of your letter of the 15th instant, trans- mitting a report from the appraiser at your port concerning the practice in classify- ing for duty imported wool and mohair noils. Under the existing rulings of the Department, noils are to be classified as the wools from which they are made, so that if the noils come from class 1 wool, and are either washed or scoured, they should, if washed, pay twice the rate, and, if scoured, three times the rate of duty to which the wool would have been liable if imported WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 153 iii an unwashed condition. Noils made from class 2 wool and Lair of the alpaca, goat, and other like animals (including mohair noils, cashmere noils, etc.), only pay increased duty if imported scoured; and when in that condition they are liable to three times the rate to which the wool or hair is liable in an unwashed condition. If these last-mentioned noils are simply washed and not scoured, they pay but a single rate of duty. You are directed to cause the practice at your port to conform to these views, and to instruct the appraiser to consider decision, Synopsis, 1404, as modified to accord herewith. (7470.) Treasury Department, April 21, 1886. We ART> ale carpets OR crumb cloths. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 22d ultimo, submitting the appeals (4629 o and 4630 o) of The John Shil- lito Company from your assessment of duty on certain ecru-cotton cloths and wear- dale carpets imported by them, entries 343, March 3, and 329, March 2, 1886. * * # * # * * The claim of the appellants that the weardale carpets are crumb cloths intended to be placed over carpets for their protection, and are not " carpets woven whole for rooms," is also substantiated, and it is ascertained that they are properly dutiable at the rate of 8 cents per square yard and 30 per cent ad valorem, as two-ply ingrain carpets, under the provisions therefor in paragraph 375, act of March 3, 1883, as claimed by the importers. You are hereby authorized to readjust the entries and to forward a certified state- ment for refund of the excess of duty. * * * (7474.) Treasury Department, April 29, 1886. Camel's-hair tops — The Department duly received your letter of the 9th instant, reporting in the matter of the appeal (4517 o) of Cass & Mote from your assessment of duty at the rate of 20 per cent ad valorem on certain so-called camePs-hair tops imported per Adriatic, December 21, 1885, and returned by the appraiser at your port as nonenumerated articles partially manufactured, dutiable under section 2513, act of March 3, 1883. It appears that the merchandise in question consists of camePs-hair tops that have passed through an extensive process of cleaning but are not otherwise manufac- tured. Reports as to the dutiable character of these tops have been received from the collectors and appraisers at Boston and Philadelphia, and the Department concurs with them in the opinion that such merchandise can not be considered as manufactures within the meaning of the section above cited, but are more properly covered by the provisions of T. I., new, 717 of the free list, for "hair of all kinds, cleaned or uncleaned, drawn or undrawn, but unmanufactured, not specially enumerated or provided for," and should therefore be admitted free of duty. The camePs-hair tops in question are inferior to camePs-hair noils, which, by Department's decision of September 20, 1875 (Synopsis, 2447), were held to be included in the provision in the old tariff for u hair of all kinds, cleaned but unmanu- factured, not otherwise provided for \ n nor are the tops in question any further advanced in manufacture than wool tops, which, by Department's decision of Febru- ary 17, 1881 (Synopsis 4777), were decided not to be manufactured. You are therefore authorized to reliquidate the entry free of duty, in accordance with the views herein expressed, and to take the necessary steps for refunding the duty exacted. (7488.) 154 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Treasury Department, June 5, 1886. Wax figures dressed. — The Department duly received your letter of the 14th ultimo, transmitting the appeal (5434o) of Mr. Bernstein from your assessment of duty at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem on certain dressed wax figures imported, per Suevia, February 23, 1886, and returned by the appraiser at your port as manufactures in part of wool, not exceeding 80 cents per pound in value, and dutiable under T. I., new, 362. It appears that the importation in question consists of dressed figures, and that the wool clothing with which the figures are clad is "firmly fastened to them, and could not be removed without taking the whole to pieces ; besides, that the legs and arms are stuffed with wool and cotton, and the feet covered with wool socks and shoes. " In the opinion of the Department the figures and clothing constitute one article, the components of which are not readily separable for purposes of classification, and that accordingly the rule laid down in the last paragraph of article 553, Gen- eral Regulations, does not apply, the figures being dutiable as entireties. Neither does the rate applicable to wool wearing apparel apply, as the articles of clothing have lost their identity as wearing apparel by being firmly fastened to the figures, so that they could not be removed without taking the whole to pieces. The dressed figures, therefore, may be considered as composed of wax, cotton, wool, leather, and other materials, and being thus made in part of wool are liable to duty at the rate assessed in this case. Your assessment is accordingly affirmed. (See synopses, 2607, 3005, 4811, and 6650. )a (7566.) Treasury Department, June 19, 1886. Wool on "shearlings." — The Department duly received your letter of the 3d instant, relative to the application of Abram S. Smith & Co. for refund of duties alleged to have been illegally exacted on certain 70 bales of sheepskins imported by them at your port on May 4 last. It appears from an inspection of the samples submitted, and from reports received thereon from the collector and appraiser at Boston, that the skins in question are what are known as shearlings, and are entitled to free entry under the provision in paragraph 719 of the free list, act of March 3, 1883, for " hides, raw or uncured, * * * and skins, except sheepskins with the wool on, " and in accordance with Department's decision of June 30, 1879 (Synopsis, 4069). The imposition by you, therefore, of duty on the small quantity (estimated at about 2£ ounces) of wool found on each skin, which the appraiser at Boston reports to be too short for commercial value, was not warranted under the circumstances, and you are accordingly authorized to reliquidate the entry free of duty and to take the necessary steps for refunding the duty exacted. * * * (7588.) Treasury Department, June 19, 1886, Wool, snow-white cape — classified as " scoured/ 7 — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 21st ultimo, transmitting the appeal (5530o) of E. A. Adams & Co. from your decision assessing duty at the rate of 30 cents per pound on certain so-called " colonial wool" imported into your port, per Pieter de Connielc (67 bales), Stockholm City (95 bales), and Durham City (124 bales), in March last, which the appellants claim to be duitable at the rate of 20 cents per pound, as washed wool. a The only decision referring to wax figures is that numbered 4811. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 155 It appears that wool of this character, which is known as u snow-white cape," has for a long period, since the year 1873, been classified at your port as washed wool, hut that, on receipt of Department's telegraphic instructions to you of the 1st of March last, such practice was changed, and that as the importations occurred after the last-named date, you classified the wool in question as " scoured," and assessed duty thereon accordingly. The result of the investigation heretofore made by the Department in the matter showed conclusively that such wool is admitted on all hands, both at the ports of New York, Philadelphia, and elsewhere, to be scoured, and that it has always been classified at those ports as such, the same now paying a duty of 30 cents per pound under the provisions of Schedule K. The Department must, therefore, hold that wool of this character can not be admitted at a less rate of duty than that prescribed for scoured wool. In view, however, of the fact that the wool covered by the entries in question was ordered by the importers during the continuance of the practice at your port above mentioned, and was actually on the voyage bound to your port at the date of such telegraphic instructions aforesaid, viz, on the 1st of March last, the Department is of opinion that the appellants are entitled, in all equity, to have the wool classified as washed, in accordance with the practice then in force at your port, which was inaugurated by a communication addressed by the Department to the collector of customs at Boston on November 15, 1873 (not published). The Department, therefore, excepts the entries in question from the operation of said instructions of the 1st of March last, and authorizes you to reliquidate the same by classifying the wool as washed. It will be distinctly understood, however, that other importations of similar wools shall be classified as scoured under the said instructions. (7589.) Treasury Department, July 2, 1886. Goat's hair. — I have your letter of the 9th ultimo and samples further relating to the classification under the tariff acts of imported goat's hair. The sample you submit undoubtedly represents a poor quality of goat's hair. For the purpose of such classification, however, it is immaterial how poor in quality or for what use the goat's hair maybe intended, inasmuch as it is clearly and expressly provided for in Schedule K by the clause to which your attention was directed by Department's communication of the 27th of May last, " all hair of the # * * goat," and is dutiable at 10 cents per pound. (76 14.) Treasury Department, July 8, 1886. Lace goods, wool. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 17th ultimo, submitting the appeal (6206o) of Messrs. Letson & Hashagen from your assessment of duty at the rate of 9 cents per square yard and 40 per cent ad valorem on certain " all-wool laces" imported by them, per Labrador, March 4, 1886. The goods in question, it appears, are wool lace dress goo ds, 41 inches wide, used for women's and children's dresses, and similar to those covered by the Department's decisions of May 13 and 24, 1886 (not published), and held to be dutiable under the provision in paragraph 365, act of March 3, 1883, "for women's and children's dress goods." The claim of the appellants that the goods are dutiable at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem is therefore rejected. (7621.) 156 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Treasury Department. July 8, 18S6. Shoes, Chinese — wearing apparel in part of * * * hair. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of May 18 last, submitting the appeal (5449o) ofQuong Wah Lung from your assessment of duty at the rate of 40 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem on certain Chinese shoes imported by him (entry No. 7459) Decem- ber 30, 1885. The appellant claims that the shoes in question, which are composed of cotton, leather, and pith, are dutiable at the rate of 35 per cent ad valorem, as " manufac- tures of cotton not specially enumerated or provided for." The appraiser reports that the soles of the shoes, which are about 1 inch in thick- ness, are composed largely of hair, and that they were therefore classified for duty under the provision in paragraph 366, act of March 3, 1883, for " wearing apparel of every description * * * composed wholly or in part of wool, worsted, the hair of the alpaca, goat, or other animals." An examination of the sample submitted confirms the report of the appraiser, and, as the hair forms a substantial component material in the shoes, the Department decides that they are properly dutiable as classified, and your decision is hereby affirmed. * * * (7622.) Treasury Department, July 10, 1886. " Croise." — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 22d ultimo, sub- mitting the following appeals from your assessment of duty at the rates of 24 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem, and 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem on certain so-called dress goods embraced therein, viz : 6258 o, G. W. Shel- don & Co., Bhaetia, April 1, 1886; 6259 o, Sullivan, Vail & Co., Zeeland, December 16, 1885; 6260o, Sullivan, Vail & Co., Bhynland, January 16, 1886. From the report of the appraiser and the sample submitted, it appears that the goods in question are known as " croise," and consist of worsted and cotton goods of light weight, which are known commercially as worsted coatings, and not as women's and children's dress goods, and that they were classified for duty as " manu- factures of worsted and cotton," under paragraph 363, act of March 3, 1883. In a letter addressed to you under date of May 13, last (not published), the Department decided that these goods were not entitled to entry as women's and children's dress goods and the claim of the appellants is therefore rejected. ( 7624 .) Treasury Department, July 14, 1886. Worsted dress goods, women's and children's — " Fancy zephyr" cloth. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 10th instant, transmitting the appeal (6673 o) of Messrs. Shepard, Nor well & Co., from your assessment of duty at the rate of 7 cents per square yard and 40 per cent ad valorem on certain so-called cotton cloth, or u fancy zephyrs," imported by them, per Carthaginian, March 31, 1886, and claimed to be dutiable only at 40 per cent ad valorem. From the report of the appraiser and an inspection of the sample submitted it appears that the merchandise in question consists of cloth the body of which is of cotton and which is ornamented by being partly covered with tufts of worsted, and that this worsted adds largely to the value of the goods. This cloth is evidently manufactured for women's and children's dress goods, and is therefore specially provided for in T. L, new, 365, and when valued at above 20 cents per square yard is dutiable at the rate assessed in this case. Your assessment is hereby affirmed. C7630.) WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 157 Treasury Department, September 20, 1880. Hosiery saxolaine. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 9th instant, submitting the appeal (7700 o) of Messrs. Claflin, Larrabee & Co., from your assessment of duty at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem on certain saxolaine hosiery imported by them, per Glaucus, July 22, 1886. The appellants claim that the quantity of wool contained in the stockings is too insignificant to govern the classification, and that they are dutiable at the rate of 40 per cent ad valorem. The appraiser reports that the stockings are composed of cotton and wool, and that, although of comparatively small value, the merino sole gives to them their distinctive character, the word " saxolaine " being printed on the foot, and the label being marked (t medicated merino." The Department decides that the stockings, being knit goods, were properly classi- fied as such, under paragraph 363, act of March 3, 1883, and your assessment of duty thereon is hereby affirmed. * # * (775 6«) Treasury Department, November 11, 1886. Wool waste — sweepings, tags, etc. — I am in receipt of your letter dated the 3d instant, transmitting a communication from Messrs. Bissinger & Co., dated the 2d instant, and requesting to be informed as to the proper classification of certain wool imported into your port, a sample of which you inclose. The wool, it appears, consists of " sweepings" and "tags/' so called, of clothing- wool, which have been picked up on the ranges after the winter is past, and from sheep which perished during snowstorms, etc. It is in a very rotten and dirty con- dition, and is evidently worthless for the purposes for which wool is used, it being fit only for use, after being cleaned, in stuffing carwheels over the axle to absorb the oil or tallow used in feeding the axles. Although not, perhaps, the woolen waste of commerce, which is specified in Sched- ule K (T. I., new, 361) it would seem to assimilate to that article. The opinion is, therefore, exj)ressed that it is dutiable at the rate of 10 cents per pound, either as woolen waste or first-class wool. If the importers are dissatisfied with such classi- fication they have their remedy by protest and appeal, under section 2931 of the Revised Statutes. (7860.) Treasury Department, November 12, 1886. Mixed wools. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 9th instant, in regard to the classification of certain Mexican wool imported at Laredo, Tex,, and transported thence in bond to your port consigned to Messrs. F. Probst & Co. The appraiser at your port reports that upon the examination of the three bags ordered to the appraiser's store, it was found that they contained a percentage of medium clothing or class 1 wool, mixed with carpet or class 3 wool; that he examined the rest of the importation, with the same result, and that the whole importation was classified as class 1 wool, under the provisions of section 2912, Revised Statutes. The deputy collector at Laredo, it appears, sorted the wool in question, and classi- fied it partly as first and partly as third class wool, and his action in the premises, being in conformity with the Department's instructions of February 27, 1886 (synop- sis, 7384), is approved. Section 2912, Revised Statutes, referred to by you, does not appear to have any bearing on this case, inasmuch as it relates to different qualities, and values of the same class of wool, and not to different classes, when contained in the same pack- age, and you are therefore instructed to liquidate the entry in accordance with the classification made at Laredo, * * * C7§63.) 158 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL, Treasury Department, December S> 1886. Broche carpets. — The Department is in receipt of your letters of the 13th ultimo, submitting the appeals (9019 o and 9020 o) of Messrs. Mandel Bros, from your assessment of duty at the rate of 30 cents per square yard and 30 per cent ad valorem on certain Broch6 carpets imported by them at your port, entries Nos.5787, September 20, and 5551, September 13, 1886. The appellants claim that the carpets in question are entitled to entry at the rate of 40 per cent ad valorem, under the provision in paragraph 378, act of March 3, 1883, for " carpets and carpetings of wool * * * not otherwise herein specified." The appraiser reports that the carpets are Brussels carpets, in which a portion of the threads have been cut to bring out certain figures in imitation of the figures in Wilton carpets, and that, as Brussels carpet was the chief feature, they were classi- fied under the provision in paragraph 371, act of March 3, 1883, for " Brussels car- pets." The appraiser at New York reports that the cutting of the pile or thread on part of the figures in carpets of this description does not remove the carpets from the category of Brussels carpets, and that they are so classified at that port. This classification is in harmony with the Department's decision of August 20, 1884 (synopsis, 6538), on Byzantine carpets, and your assessment of duty is hereby affirmed. ("7894.) Treasury Department, December 9, 1886. Hair felt. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of October 26 last, sub- mitting the appeal (8747 o) of Messrs. G. W. Sheldon & Co., from your assessment of duty at the rate of 18 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem on certain hair felt, so called, imported at your port,, entry No. 4736, August 14, 1886, and claimed to be dutiable at the rate of 30 per cent ad valorem, under the provisions in para- graph 445, act of March 3, 1883, for " all other manufactures of hair not specially enumerated or provided for. The sample of the felt has been submitted to the appraiser at New York, who reports, under date of the 30th ultimo, that upon chemical analysis it was found to be composed of wool and hair felted. It is, therefore, dutiable at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem, under the provision in paragraph 362 of said act, for " all manufactures of wool of every description made wholly or in part of wool," and in accordance with Department's decision of April 26, 1886 (unprinted). You will, therefore, readjust the entry at that rate and take measures for collect- ing the duties still due thereon. (7912.) Treasury Department, December 10, 1886. Ring waste. — I inclose herewith, for your guidance and information, copy of a decision rendered this day as to the dutiable character of so-called ring waste, an importation of which it appears recently arrived at St. Albans, in your district, and was forwarded to New York in bond, the entry being liquidated at the rate of 30 per cent ad'valorem, as scoured wool. The waste in question is not of the same character as the "slubbings," "tops," etc., which were the subject of Department's decision (Synopses, 5820 (a) and 6884), referred to in your letter of the 22d ultimo to the collector at New York, inasmuch as it consists of the refuse from the spindles, having been wound thereon, and so a See note to No. 6884. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 159 can not be utilized without being broken by machinery, thus destroying the fiber of the wool and the utility of the article for other purposes than that of waste. »#*#** # You are requested to inform your deputies at St. Albans and elsewhere of the nature of the inclosed ruling, in order that this article may be properly classified hereafter. (?915«) Treasury Department, January 8, 1887. Slipper patterns — embroidered. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 31st ultimo, transmitting the appeal (9538 o) of Mr. H. E. Frankenberg from your assessment of duty at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem on certain embroidery on cotton imported by him, per Werra, August 18, 1886. It appears, from the report of the appraiser and an inspection of the sample sub- mitted, that the goods in question are commercially known as " cotton slipper pat- terns," and that they are embroidered with worsted, and valued at over 80 cents per pound. Your assessment of duty thereon, being in accordance with T. I., new, 363, and Department's decisions of April 22, 1884 (Synopsis, 6309), and April 16, 1885 (unpub- lished), is hereby affirmed, (*965») Treasury Department, January IS, 1887. Reappraisements of wool.— The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 7th instant, in which, stating a case which comes before you under section 2930 of the Revised Statutes, where the general and merchant appraisers have disagreed as to the value of certain- imported wool, you call attention to the fact that while the law imposing duty on wools prescribes that the value at the last port or place whence imported to the United States shall fix the classification, the oath taken by the merchant appraiser requires him to report "the actual market value or whole- sale price thereof * * * in the principal markets of the country from which the same was imported into the United States." You state that the oath being at variance with the language of the statute, the same is, in your opinion, inoperative, and makes the whole action of the merchant appraiser a nullity, since the oath requires him to disregard the law. As requested in your letter, the matter was submitted to the Solicitor of the Treasury for his opinion, and I now transmit herewith a copy of a letter from that officer, dated the 12th instant, which embodies his views on the question submitted. You will notice that the Solicitor advises that the oath to be administered to the merchant appraiser, in the case of reappraisements of wool, should conform to the requirements of the statute making it obligatory upon him to report the values of the wools at the last port or place whence they are exported to the United States. The Department concurs with the Solicitor in the opinion thus expressed, and you will be governed accordingly. (79780 Treasury Department, January 18, 1887. Saddlebag s . — The Department is in receipt of a letter, dated the 8th instant, from the U. S. general appraiser at Philadelphia, in which he reports that, according to a statement received from your port, saddlebags of which Brussels carpet forms the component material of chief value appear to have been classified at the rate of 30 cents per square yard and 30 per cent ad valorem, under the provision in Schedule K (T. L, new, 371^ for " Brussels carpets." 160 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Referriug to Department's decisions of Jnne 25, 1883 (Synopsis, 5776), and August 10, 1883 (Synopsis, 5853), you are informed that, in the opinion of the Department, saddlebags are dutiable at the rate provided in Schedule N. (T. I., new, 415) for " saddlery," viz, 35 per cent ad valorem. (7990.) Treasury Department, January 21, 1887. Goat hair of the common goat unfit for combing purposes.— The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 4th instant, further reporting on the appeal (8785 o) of Mr. Henry Schmidt from your decision assessing duty at the rate of 10 cents per pound on certain raw hair of the common goat imported, per British King, on the 2d of August last, which the appellant claims to be exempt from duty. The appellant represents that the hair in question is refuse common goat hair, unfit for combing purposes, which can only be utilized in mixing mortar, stuffing sad- dlery, etc., and an inspection of samples verifies such representations. It is urged by you that goat hair of this character which is totally unfit for comb- ing purposes is not covered by the provisions of Schedule K (T. I., new, 354 and 358), which relate to " class two, combing wools, * * * and also all hair of the alpaca, goat, and other like animals," but is exempt from duty under the provision in the free list (T. I., new, 717) for " hair of all kinds * * * unmanufactured," etc. This question was to a certain extent considered by the court in the case of the United States r. McNeely recently decided at Philadelphia, where it was held that goat hair unfit for combing purposes was exempt from duty as aforesaid. The U. S. Attorney-General also, to whom the matter was submitted, by a letter dated the 15th instant, advises that, in his opinion, the decision of the court was right, and that goat hair unfit for combing purposes is entitled to free entry, under the provision in the " free list," above referred to. The Department concurs in such views, and holds that the said appeal is well taken, and that the common goat hair in question is exempt from duty. You will reliquidate the entry accordingly, and, if necessary, take the usual steps for refunding the duties erroneously exacted. The previous rulings of May 27 and July 2, 1886 (Synopses, 7544 and 7614), will be considered as modified to accord herewith. C7999.) Treasury Department, February i, 1887. Croise. — The Department duly received your letter of the 18th of December last, transmitting the appeal (9765 o) of Messrs. Kahn Bros., Bine & Co. from your deci- sion assessing duty at the rate of 9 cents per square yard and 40 per cent ad valorem on certain so-called " croise" imported into your port, per rail from New York, under immediate-transportation entry 1951, August 17 last, which was returned by the appraiser at your port as " worsted dress goods," weighing under 4 ounces per square yard. The appellants, however, claim that the merchandise in question consists of man- ufactures of worsted, or " worsted coatings," dutiable at the rate of 24 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem, under the provisions of paragraph 363, T. I., new, and Department's decision of July 10, 1886 (Synopsis, 7624). It appears from a report received from the appraiser at New York, to whom sam- ples of the merchandise were submitted, that they represent what are commer- cially known as " women's and children's dress goods," and are used entirely as such, being composed wholly of worsted, 40 inches wide and weighing about 3 ounces to the yard, whereas the merchandise covered by the decision above referred to is composed of cotton in the warp and worsted in the weft, 54 inches wide, weight- ing about Qi ounces to the yard, and is used for men's wear. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 161 The merchandise in question, therefore, being in fact women's and children's dress- goods, and being composed wholly of worsted, is dutiable under the special provision therefor in Schedule K (T. I., new, 365), of the act of March 3, 1883, at the rate assessed by you in this case. Your decision is hereby affirmed. (8020.) Treasury Department, February 11, 1887. u Gloria cloth." — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 27th ultimo, submitting the following appeals of Messrs. Bister & Schmidt from your assessment of duty at the rate of 7 cents per square yard and 40 per cent ad valorem on certain "gloria cloths" imported by them. # # * * * # # The appraiser reports that the goods in question, which vary in width from 46 to 120 centimeters, and are composed of silk in the warp aud worsted in the weft, are similar to women's and children's dress-goods, and are dutiable at the rate assessed, under paragraph 365, act of March 3, 1883, and the Department's decision of April 15, 1885 (not published). Your assessment of duty thereon is hereby affirmed. (8050.) Treasury Department, February 25, 1887. Noils. — On the 20th of April, 1886 (synopsis 7470), the Department instructedyou as folloA-f s : Under the existing rulings of the Department noils are to be classified as the wools from which they are made, so that if the noils come from class 1 wool, and are either washed or scoured, they should, if washed, pay twice the rate, and, if scoured, three times the rate of duty to which the wool would have been liable if imported in an unwashed condition. Noils made from class 2 wool and hair of the alpaca, goat, and other like animals (including mohair noils, cashmere noils, etc.), only pay increased duty if imported scoured, and when in that condition they are liable to three times the rate to which the wool or hair is liable in an unwashed condition. If these last-mentioned noils are simply washed and not scoured, they pay but a single rate of duty. It is understood that under these instructions imported noils are now habitually elassified as scoured wools, it being held that all noils come from scoured wools, and that the fact of their original production makes them liable under such instructions to the rate of duty prescribed by the statute for scoured wools. It was not the intention, however, by such instructions to cause such a practice to prevail, but simply to have all imported noils classified in accordance with the con- dition in which they may be when imported — that is to say, if in a scoured condition, to pay duty as scoured wool; if washed, as washed wool, etc. Noils are the product of combing scoured and washed wools, and consist of tufts of short hair which contain all the impurities of such wools, with the addition of the oil and grease which may adhere to the noils in the process of combing. The appraisers should therefore be instructed upon the importation of any noils to make a careful examination thereof, and if it is found that the noils are in such a condition as to be commercially known as washed, to return them as such, in order that the triple rate of duty shall only be imposed when such examination clearly demonstrates that the noils are in a scoured condition. (8010.) Treasury Department, March 9, 1887. Elastic gaiter- we being. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 1st instant, reporting further on the appeal (164p) of Messrs. Salomon & Phillips from yonr assessment of duty at the rate of 30 cents per pound and 50 per cent ad valorem. H. Mis, 94- — 11 162 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. on certain webbing imported by them, per Etruria, April 19, 1886, and claimed to be dutiable at the rate of 30 per cent ad valorem, under the provision in paragraph 453, act of March 3, 1883, for " India-rubber fabrics, composed wholly or in part of India rubber." The appraiser reports that the merchandise in question was elastic gaiter-webbing, composed of worsted, cotton, and India rubber, and that it was classified as " web- bing * * * wrought by hand or braided by machinery * * * of which * * * worsted * * * is a component material," under the provision therefor in paragraph 368, act of March 3, 1883, and the Department's decision of April 23, 1886 (not published). The decision of the U. S. Supreme Court in the case of Beard v. Nichols et al., which was acquiesced in by the Department on the 19th ultimo (not published), and which covered similar goods imported prior to the time when the act of March 3, 1883, went into effect, is not applicable to importations under said act, inasmuch as the term " webbing n is not used in the new act, and the decision is based on the use of that term in the old act (T. I., old, 388). Your assesment of duty is hereby affirmed. (8102.) Treasury Department, March 22, 1887. Embroidered bath wraps and slippers. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 16th instant, reporting further on the appeals (457p and 457-Jp) of Messrs. Richardson & Gerts from your assessment of duty at the rate of 40 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem on certain bath wraps and sandals imported by them, per Samaria, December 6, 1886, and Glaucus, January 24, 1887. Protest not having been filed in due time for the entry per Samaria, the Depart- ment declines to entertain the appeal 457p. The appellants claim that the wraps in question, which are made of cotton Turk- ish toweling, embroidered with colored worsted, are properly subject to duty at the rate of 35 per cent ad valorem as u cotton goods." The appraiser reports that the embroidery is sufficiently elaborate to greatly enhance their value and become an important material in their construction, and that, in his opinion, the worsted should govern their classification. An inspection of the samples submitted shows that the articles are loose wraps and sandals, intended for use in the bath, which are composed of Turkish toweling, and are elaborately and expensively embroidered with worsted down the front on each side, on the hood, and on each sleeve,, the embroidery probably forming the chief element of value, and certainly forming a leading feature; and the sandals are also embroidered in the same style as the robe. The Department is therefore of opinion that they were correctly classified for duty under the provision in paragraph 366, act of March 3, 1883, for "clothing, ready-made, and wearing apparel of every description * * * composed wholly or in part of wool, worsted, * * * made up or manufactured wholly or in part by the tailor, seamstress, or manufacturer." (See synopses 2134, 2678, 2694, 2712. and 3712J Your decision is hereby affirmed. (8126.) Treasury Department, March 24, 1887. Horse-clothing. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 19th instant, transmitting the appeal (1512p) of the Studebaker Bros/ Manufacturing Company from your decision assessing duty at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem on certain horse-clothing imported into the port of New York, per Ger- manic, January 20, 1887, and thence transported to your port under immediate-trans- portation entry No, 26, WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 163 The appellants claim the articles are dutiable only at the rate of 35 per cent ad valorem, under the provisions in T. L, 415, for " coach and harness furniture of all kinds, saddlery, " etc. It appears from the report of the appraiser submitted with your letter that the clothing in question, which is composed principally of wool, consists of such articles as hoods and bandages for the legs, etc., none of which form a part of or are essential to the articles enumerated in T. I., 415. The clothing in question is not specially enumerated or provided for in the tariff, * and, being composed in part of wool, is dutiable at the rate assessed by you, under the provision in T. I., 362, for u manufactures * * * made wholly or in part of wool. " Your decision therefore is hereby affirmed. (8132.) Treasury Department, March 28, 1887. Worsted veilings. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 22d instant, transmitting the appeal (1526^) of Messrs. S. Oppenheimer &, Levy from your assess- ment of duty at the rate pf 9 cents per square yard and 40 per cent ad valorem on certain so-called " worsted veilings ". imported by them, per St. Laurent, December 30, 1885, and returned as u all-wool dress goods," the appellants claiming the same to be dutiable at 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem, as a manufacture of worsted not specially enumerated or provided for. It appears, from the report of the appraiser and an inspection of the sample sub- mitted, that the merchandise in question is a manufacture exclusively of wool, and known and used almost exclusively for women's and children's dress goods. It was, therefore, correctly classified for duty under T. I., new, 365. Your assessment of duty is affirmed. (§140.) Treasury Department, April 21, 1887. Mixed wools. — In reply to your letter of the 11th instant, in which you inquire if, when " mixed wool is imported and it is required to be sorted for the purposes of correct classification and assessment of duty, as permitted by Department's deci- sion of February 27, 1886 (Synopsis 7384), it is necessary to separate the respective classes and repack them in separate bags or whether a thorough examination and determination of the quantity of each class will suffice," you are informed that the sorting referred to in said decision should not be resorted to except in cases where the correct classification of the wool cannot be otherwise determined, and was only authorized by the Department in order to provide for the assessment of duty on importations of mixed wool at the rates applicable to the respective quantities of each class therein contained, instead of at the rate applicable to the highest of said classes, which would otherwise have to be imposed. In cases, therefore, where the correct classification and determination of the quan- tity of each class of wool can, as suggested by you, be arrived at without sorting the same, no objection is seen to the adoption of that course, provided, however, that the importers assent and waive all objections thereto in writing; otherwise duty should be assessed either at the rate applicable to the highest class of wool found in the mixed packages, or at the rates applicable to the several classes as ascertained by sorting. (8 18 7.) Treasury Department, April 22, 1887 . Saddle felt. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 15th instant, transmitting the appeal (2013 p) of Mr. J. H. Fenton from your decision assessing duty at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem on certain saddle- 164 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. felt imported by him into the port of New York, thence transported under immediate- transportation entry No. 2908, and entered for consumption under entry No. 1421, March 5, 1887. The appellant claims that said saddle felt is dutiable at the rate of 35 per cent ad valorem only under the provision in Schedule N (T. I., 415) for saddlery not specially enumerated or provided for. The appraiser in his special report upon this appeal states that the felt in ques- tion is in the piece, not having been manufactured in any manner such as to charac- terize it as saddlery or harness ; that it may be used for other purposes, and that it was classified by him according to material under paragraph 362 of Tariff Indexed. It appearing that said felt in the piece is in part manufactured of wool and is valued at not over 80 cents per pound, your decision assessing duty thereon at the rates specified in said paragraph 362 for manufactures made wholly or in part of wool, and not over 80 cents per pound in value, is hereby affirmed. (8188,) Treasury Department, May 27, 1887. " Brace and girth webbing." — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 11th ultimo, submitting the appeal (1889 p) of Mr. J. H. Fenton from your assessment of duty at the rate of 30 cents per pound and 50 per cent ad valorem on certain brace and girth webbing imported by him at your port, entry No. 1421, March 5, 1887. The appellant claims that the webbing in question is manufactured and used solely for saddle-girths, and that it is entitled to entry at the rate of 35 per cent ad valorem, under the provision in paragraph 415 for "saddlery." The appraiser reports that the goods are invoiced as " girth-web " and " worsted binding," and that they are sold by the piece; have not been advanced beyond the condition of webbing, and may be used for purposes other than the manufacture of harness. The goods, not having been made into saddle-girths, are not in their present con- dition embraced in the term " saddlery," and the claim of the appellant is therefore rejected. In view of the statement of the appellant that these goods are admitted to entry at New York at the rate of 35 per cent ad valorem, I have to inform you that the col- lector of customs at that port reports, under date of the 23d instant, that they are classified for duty at the rate assessed by you under paragraph 368, act of March 3, 1883, viz, 30 cents per pound and 50 per cent ad valorem. (§255.) Treasury Department, June 2, 1887. Merino hose. — The Department duly received your letter of the 10th ultimo, trans- mitting the appeal (2516 p) of Messrs. Wilson Bros, from your assessment of duty at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem on certain so-called merino hose, imported at your port from New York, under I. T. entry 5782, and claimed by the appellants to be dutiable at the rate of 40 per cent ad valorem under T. I. 323. It appears from reports received from the appraiser at your port and the collector and appraiser at New York, and from an examination of the samples submitted, that the articles in question are composed in part of wool, the wool having been sifted in during the process of knitting, the threads being composed entirely of cotton. Urfder the provisions of T. I. 363, all goods made on knitting-frames, composed wholly or in part of worsted, and under the provisions of T. I. 362, all manufactures made wholly or in part of wool are dutiable,, when valued at above 80 cents per pound, at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem. As these goods fall within the description given they are dutiable at the rate . assessed, and your decision is accordingly affirmed. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL 165 The statement of the appellants that such goods have been and are admitted at New York at the rate claimed by them is controverted by the appraiser at that port, who states that they are invariably returned for duty at the rate assessed in this case. * * * (8265.) Treasury Department, June 3, 1887. Wools — scoured and washed. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 24th of January last, transmitting the appeal (129 p) of Wood & Payson from your decision assessing duty at the rate of 1\ cents per pound on certain wool imported by them into your port, per Salerno, on the 9th of November last, which the appel- lants claim to be dutiable at the rate of 5 cents per pound. The question involved is whether the said wool is scoured as classified by you, or washed as claimed by the appellants. This case does not differ in any essential feature from that decided in Synopsis 7438, March 29, 1886, and that case seems to have been very fully and carefully con- sidered, and no good reason is now advanced why the rule there laid down should not be adhered to. In the present case the proofs submitted are quite conclusive that the wool in question is of the same brand, quality, and condition, and cleansed by precisely the same process as the wool which was the subject of that decision. A chemical analysis discloses the presence of only 2£ per cent more of pure wool fiber, which can not of itself be regarded as sufficient evidence that the wool has been subjected to a different process of cleansing. The provision in the tariff act of 1883, paragraph 356, that " the duty on wools of all classes, which shall be imported scoured, shall be three times the duty to which they would be subjected if imported unwashed," is identically the same language which was used in the tariff act of 1867 (14 Stats., 560), and the decisions of the Treasury Department from that time until the present have uniformly been to the effect that the terms " washed" and " scoured 99 as used in the tariff acts have refer- ence to the processes to which the wool is subjected in preparing it for market or manufacture; the former being used to designate the ordinary process of washing in clear water at a temperature of about 70 degrees, and a subsequent rinsing in water of the same temperature ; and the latter to denote the method employed of still further cleansing the wool by subjecting it to the action of soap, alkalies, and other chemicals in water at a high temperature, and usually by the aid of machinery. This construction of the Treasury Department of the tariff act of 1867 must have been well known to Congress at the time of the adoption of the act of 1883, and it is to be presumed that it was satisfactory to that body, and that by the repetition of the language in the act of 1883 it was intended that this construction should continue to prevail. Following, therefore, the long-established practice governing importations of wool of this character, the Department sustains the appeal, and decides that the wool is dutiable at the rate of 5 cents per pound as washed wool of the third class, costing over 12 cents per pound. You will reliquidate the entry accordingly, and if necessary take the usual steps for refunding the excessive duties exacted. (§268.) Treasury Department, June 5, 1887. Llama tennis cloth and lawn-tennis suitings. — The Department duly received your letter of April 21 last in regard to a difference of practice at your port and New York in the classification of certain goods composed of a cotton warp and wool filling, and commercially known as " novelty Scotch flannels." These goods, it appears, were invoiced as u Llama tennis' cloth/'" "lawn tennis suitings," and by various other names, and they are classified at your port under 166 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. the provisions of paragraph 365, act of March 3, 1883, for " women and children's dress goods," while at New York they are classified under the provision in paragraph 363 of said act for " flannels." It is ascertained, upon investigation, that they are generally known to the trade both in this country and in Scotland, where they are principally manufactured, as "flannels." The Department, therefore, decides that they are dutiable under the special pro- vision for flannels above cited, and you will, therefore, cause the practice at your port to be amended accordingly. # The samples submitted with your report do not represent the goods in question, which it appears differ only from the flannels heretofore imported, in that they contain what is known as u boucle " stripes, and the samples appear to be correctly classified, with exception of two, marked "C," which are flannels. * * * (8269.) Treasury Department, July 13, 1887. Thread waste. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 7th instant, transmitting the appeal (36192?) of J. W. Tattersfield from your decision assessing duty at the rate of 10 cents per pound on certain worsted waste imported into your port, per Martello, on the 7th of April last, which the appellants claim to be dutiable at the rate of 10 per cent ad valorem. It appears* from your report and that of the appraiser that the merchandise in question is a worsted waste, which is known commercially as thread waste; that it is in the condition in which it is dropped from or was broken on the machine, and that it is similar in character and condition to the thread waste which has for many years been imported and subjected to the rate of duty as assessed by you. This thread waste, it is understood, when broken up and put through the gar- netting machine becomes practically wool, and as such is used in adulterating other wool in making cloths, dress goods, etc. In the opinion of the Department, the merchandise was properly classified under the provision in Schedule K, T. I., 361, for " woolen rags, shoddy, mungo, ivaste, and flocks." dutiable at the rate of 10 cents per pound. Your decision is affirmed. (8340.) Treasury Department, August 16, 1887. "Dentelles. " — Your letters of May 25 last were duly received, submitting the following appeals from your assessment of duty at the rate of 9 cents per square yard and 40 per cent ad valorem on certain silk and woolen goods (dentelle) embraced therein. * # # # # # # The goods in question are composed of woolen lace, the woollen threads between the figures being wrapped with silk, and the appraiser at your port is of the opinion that the silk, which is comparatively small in quantity, is added solely for the pur- pose of changing the classification of the goods. Samples of the goods having been submitted to the appraisers at New York and Boston, those officers are of the opinion that the silk is introduced to insure the strength and durability of the goods, and not for the purpose of affecting the classi- fication. This view was also taken by the board of appraisers at their session at New York in July last, and, in consideration of this concurrence of opinion, the Department decides that the claim of the appellants that the goods are dutiable at the rate of 7 cents per square yard and 40 per cent ad valorem, under T. I., 365, is well founded. You are therefore authorized to readjust the entries at that rate, and to take meas- ures for refunding the excess of duty exacted thereon. (8387.) WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 167 Treasury Department, September 1, 1887. "Sliped" wool. — The Department is in receipt of a letter from the appraiser at your port, dated the 13th ultimo, in which information is asked as to the proper classification of so-called " aliped" wool. As a reply thereto, I inclose herewith copies of communications received from the collector and appraiser at New York, from which it would appear that the wool consists of what is known as " cross-bred lamb's wool," being a cross between English and merino blood, which would be returned for duty at that port as class 2 wool, dutiable, under the provisions of Schedule K., T. I., 358, at the rate of 10 cents per pound. The appraiser further reports that the process through which the wool has gone, to wit, having been "aliped" from the hide through the agency of lime and other substances, would not advance it beyond the condition of washed wool, and, accord- ingly, would not affect its return for duty. These views appear practically to concur with your own, and may be adopted in the classification of this class of wool. (8414.) Treasury Department, September 7, 1887. Cork soles. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 29th ultimo, sub- mitting the appeal (4854p) of Messrs. Shattuck & Binger from your assessment of duty at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem on certain cork soles imported by them, per City of Chester, September 2, 1886. The appellants claim that the merchandise is dutiable at the rate of 30 per cent ad valorem, under the provision in T. I., 422, for " corks and cork-bark, manufac- tured." An inspection of the sample shows that the articles are manufactured of cork and wool, wool being a leading and important feature, and the Department is of opinion that they were properly classified for duty under the provision in T. I., 362, for u all manufactures of wool of every description, made wholly or in part of wool." Your assessment of duty thereon is hereby affirmed. (8423.) Treasury Department, September 24, 1887. " Worsted mantlings " composed in part of wool. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 14th instant, submitting the appeal (5464 p) of Mr. C. Kell from your assessment of duty at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem on certain worsted mantlings imported by him, per Servia, August 17, 1886, and claimed to be dutiable under T. I., 363. The appraiser reports that the goods in question are composed pf wool, worsted, and cotton, and that they were classified for duty under T. I., 362. In view of the report of the appraiser that the goods are composed in part of wool, and of the fact that goods composed in part of wool are expressly excluded from the provisions of T. I., 363, the claim of the appellant is rejected. (8444.) Treasury Department, September 28, 1887. Wool waste, carbonated.—* * * From the report of the appraiser and an inspection of the samples submitted it appears that the merchandise in question consists of so-called " carbonated wool-waste," made from scoured wool of class 1, that it is nearly as valuable as the wool from which it is made, and is adapted to all the uses of scoured wool. By reference to the report of the appraisers' conference held at your port in July last, it appears that this article was the subject of consideration at said conference, and that it was held to be properly classified as scoured wool, class 1. 168 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. The Department concurs in this view, and your assessment of duty, being in accordance therewith and with T. I., 356 and 357, and the principle enunciated in Department's decision of April 29, 1885 (synopsis 6884), is hereby affirmed. * * * (8452.) Treasury Department, October 18, 1887. "Garnetted thread waste." — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 6th instant, transmitting the appeal (5904 p) of J. W. Tattersfield from your decision assessing duty at the rate of 10 cents per pound on certain worsted waste imported into your port, per Galileo, on the 23d of July last, which the appellant claims to be dutiable at the rate of 10 per cent ad valorem under the provisions in Schedule N (T. I., 493) for " waste, all not specially enumerated or provided for." It appears from the special report of the appraiser and an inspection of the samples that the article in question is the so-called " garnetted thread waste" which was the subject of consideration at the recent conference of United States appraisers at New York, and which was then considered to be in fact scoured wool, dutiable at the rate of 30 cents per pound. It is also understood that the article is similar in many respects to the so-called "carbonated wool waste" which was the subject of Department's ruling of the 28th ultimo, paragraph 9, Circular No. 106, current series. Under such circumstances you are instructed, provided that the merchandise still remains in your custody, to reclassify it accordingly and to call upon the appellant for payment of the duties still due the Government. In case, however, the merchandise was entered for consumption and delivered into the custody of the importer at the time of the entry, your classification thereof as wool waste may stand unchanged. (8474.) Treasury Department, October 18, 1887. Sheepskin rugs and mats. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 6th instant, transmitting the appeal (6005 p) of Mr. W. F. Laury from your assess- ment of duty at the rate of 40 per cent ad valorem on one case of sheepskin mats and rugs imported, per Zealandia, August 8, last, and returned by the appraiser as rugs not otherwise provided for, dutiable under X. L> 378. The appellant claims that the merchandise is liable to a duly of 20 per cent only, in accordance with Department's decision of December 29, 1885, on an appeal received from your port. By reference to the decision cited, it appears that the merchandise covered thereby consisted of dressed goatskins and sheepskins similar to those covered by Depart- ment's decisions of July 28, 1885 (Synopsis 7046), August 5, 1885 (synopsis 7063), while the merchandise in question appears, from an inspection of the sample sub- mitted and the report of the appraises at your port, to consist of dried sheepskins, lined and finished complete for use as rugs or mats. The decisions above referred to were not intended to apply to merchandise of this character, which is plainly covered by the provisions of T. I., 378. Your assessment of duty is accordingly hereby afiirmed. (84840 Treasury Department, October 26, 1887. Garnetted waste. — The Department duly received your letter of the 17th instant, transmitting the protest and appeal (6160^?) of Messrs. Adler & Co. from your assess- ment of duty at the rate of 24 cents per pound on five bales of so-called " wool wase" imported by them, per Circassian (entry No. 1414), September 23, 1887. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OP WOOL. 169 The appraiser at your port reports that the article in question is made of class 1 wool, washed, costing over 30 cents per pound in an unwashed condition. The appraiser at Philadelphia, to whom a sample of the importation was sub- mitted, returns the same as garnetted wool waste, and that it is the practice at his port to return similar importations as scoured wool, dutiable at 30 cents per pound. An inspection of the sample shows that the article has been garnetted or put through some process restoring it practically to the condition of unmanufactured wool, which, under the priuciples contained in Department's decision of September 28, last (synopsis 8452), is duitable at the wool rate, and not as waste. Your assessment of duty is accordingly affirmed. (8499.) Treasury Department, October 26, 1887. Sheepskins with the wool on partially tanned or tawed.— The Department is in rceipt of your letter of the 19th instant in regard to your practice of classifying, under the existing tariff act, alum tanned or tawed sheepskins with the wool on imported into your port. These sheepskins, as it is understood, are tanned and finished for the purpose of being used as rugs or for other similar purposes. In the opinion of the Department they can not be classified under the provision in Schedule N (T. I., 460) for ls leather not specially enumerated or provided for in this act," at a duty of 15 per cent ad valorem, as claimed by you, but are liable to duty at the rate of 20 per cent ad valorem, under the further provision in this sched- ule (T. I., 461) for " skins dressed and finished, of all kinds, not specially enumer- ated or provided for in this act." You will conform your practice to the views herein expressed on the importation of such merchandise. (8502.) Treasury Department, October 28, 1887. Tweed hats and tweed caps. — The Department duly received your letter of August 9, last, in regard to a variance at different ports in the classification of tweed hats. In reply, I would call your attention to the Department's decision of April 15, 1884 (synopsis 6299), in which it is held that tweed hats are dutiable at the rate of 30 per cent ad valorem, under T. I., 400. Tweed caps are dutiable as " wearing apparel," under T. L, 366, and the Depart- ment's decision of November 20, 1885 (synopsis 7214). (8506.) Treasury Department, November 8, 1887. Wool grease — dutiable as an expressed oil. — * * * The appellants claim that the article (wool grease) is provided for under " Schedule N (sundries), act of March 3, 1886, where it says grease obtained by pressure from wool skins, 10 per cent." So far as the Department is aware, there is no act of March 3, 1886, of the charac- ter referred to, neither is there any provision in the tariff act of March 3, 1883, for "grease obtained from pressure of wool skins." The claim, therefore, in thepartic- ular mentioned must be rejected. The appraiser reports that the merchandise in question is an expressed oil of wool, and is known as a solid fat oil of animal origin, it being so classified in the United States Dispensatory (edition 1886, folio 978). Such being the case, it is held that the article is dutiable at the rate of 25 per cent ad valorem, under the provision iii Schedule A (T. L, 92) for "all preparations known as expressed * * * oils." (8528.) 170 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Treasury Department, November 23, 1887. Linseed-oil bagging or press cloth. — Concerning the appeal from yonr decision assessing clnty on certain so-called " linseed-oil bagging/' yon are informed that after a further and more careful investigation of the matter, it is ascertained that the mer- chandise in question is neither commercially known as bagging nor capable of being used for the same purpose as bagging, but that it is commercially known and sold as " press cloth," and is used by candle manufacturers, chemists, and oil manufac- turers in hydraulic presses for filtering purposes, expressing oil, etc. Such being the case, you are informed that Department's said decision of the 17th ultimo (synopsis 8480), which was based upon an erroneous statement of facts, is hereby revoked, and that such merchandise, which is x imported as fabrics composed sometimes wholly of camel's hair, and at other times wholly or in part of wool, worsted, etc., should be classified, under the proper provisions of Schedule K, either as manufactures of hair, or manufactures in part of wool, worsted, etc., at the rates of duty therein prescribed. * * * (8550.) Treasury Department, December 19, 1887. Ingrain carpets woven in squares. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 15th instant reporting on the communication of Messrs. Arnold, Constable & Co., dated the 3d instant, regarding the classification under the tariff acts of two- ply ingrain carpets when woven in squares. You state that Schedule K (T. I., 369) provides for "Aubusson, Axminster, and chenille carpets, and carpets woven whole for rooms," and that, in your opinion, as there is only a comma and not a semicolon after the first word "carpets," the pro- vision for " carpets woven whole for rooms" applies only to such as are "Aubusson, Axminster, and chenille," or, in other words, that a proper reading of the law is "Aubusson, Axminster, and chenille carpets" and Aubusson, Axminster, and chenille carpets "woven whole for rooms." You also express the opinion that two-ply ingrain carpets are specially provided for in the same schedule (T. L, 375) at 8 cents per square yard, and, in addition, 30 per cent ad valorem, and that such rate applies to all two-ply ingrain carpets, whether in ordinary lengths or woven square or otherwise. Your views in the matter seem to be in accordance with Department's ruling of April 21, 1886 (synopsis 7474), wherein it was held that certain " Weardale carpets and crumb cloths," intended to be placed over carpets for their protection, are not dutiable as " carpets woven whole for rooms," but are dutiable as two-ply ingrain carpets. It is understood that it has been the practice at your port for many years to clas- sify the two-ply ingrain carpets above mentioned in accordance with your views, and no reason is perceived for changing such practice. (§588.) Treasurry Department, February 16, 1888. Woolen "crois^" or "shooda." — The Department duly received your letter of December 22 last, submitting the appeal (251r) of Messrs. Kohn Bros., Bine & Co. from your assessment of duty at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem on certain woolen dress goods imported by them into your port, entry No. 7504, December 8, 1887, and claimed to be dutiable at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem, as "woolen cloths," under T. I., 362. The appraiser reports that the goods in question are commercially known as wool croise or shooda; that they bear no resemblance to what is known as "wool cloth" or "ladies cloth;" that they are almost exclusively used for ladies' and children's dresses, and that they Vere classified for duty under T. I., 365. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 171 The sample submitted has been referred to the appraisers at Philadelphia and Boston, who report that goods of the same character are classified at those ports for duty at the rate assessed, under the provision in T. I., 365, for " women's and chil- dren's dress-goods. " The Department decides that the goods were correctly classified, and your assess- ment of duty thereon is hereby affirmed. (§6^9.) Treasury Department, February 18, 1888. Brush bags composed of jute, metal, and worsted. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 7th instant, transmitting the appeal (2922 r) of Messrs. Ives, Bellamy & Co. from your assessment of duty at the rate of 18 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem on certain brush bags imported by them, per ScytMa, October 29, 1887. From your reference to Department's letter of the 19th ultimo, it would appear that the articles in question are similar to those referred to therein, which were described as being composed of jute, embroidered with worsted yarns, the bags being suspended by an ornamental metal frame, the frame constituting 45 per cent of the total value of the material. By thai decision it was held that two classifications were applicable to these bags, to wit, 45 per cent, as manufactures in part of metal, under T. I., 216, and the sev- eral rates provided for in T. I., 363, for manufactures in part of worsted, and you were directed to liquidate the entry at the higher of the two rates applicable under section 2499. By your assessment of duty in this case at the rate applicable to manufactures of worsted, it is understood that such rate is the higher, -and your action being, there- fore, in accordance with said decision and with the rule laid down in Department's decision of March 22, 1887 (synopsis 8126), is hereby affirmed. (§682.) Treasury Department, March 2, 1888. Traveling or carriage rugs. — I return this day, under another cover, three samples of traveling or carriage rugs, received with your letter of the 30th of Jan- uary last, reporting further in the matter of the appeal (226jp) of John Wanamaker from your assessment of duty at the several rates provided for wool and worsted goods on an importation of similar articles by him, per British Prince, November 18, 1887. After a careful consideration of the question of fact involved in said appeal, and the receipt of reports thereon from the collector and appraiser at New York, the Department has concluded to modify the decision of January 18, 1870 (synopsis 543a), which appears to be applicable to this class of importations, and to concede the claim of the appellant that these rugs are dutiable under the provision in Schedule K (T. I., 378) for " all other, * * * rugs." 'In the report of the appraiser at your port, received with your letter aforesaid, he describes the articles as such as are used for carriage and sleigh robes, for wrap- ping on railway cars as traveling robes or blankets, and for house purposes for cov- erings for sofas, etc.; and, in his letter of December 14 last, reporting on the same appeal, he submits that, under the comprehensive signification of the word, they are rug 8. The appraiser at New York reports that they are commercially known as travel- ing or carriage rugs; and Webster, in his definition of rugs, states that ' 1 they are a Certain (so-styled) "railway rugs," composed of cows' hair and cotton, or calves' hair and cotton, were decided not to be the "rugs " mentioned in the act of March 2, 1867. They should be classified according to the materials of which they are composed, to be determined by the appraiser, on. exam- ination of the goods and such evidence as may be presented (synopsis 543, January 18, 1870). 172 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. used for various purposes, as coverings for beds, protecting the carpet before fire- places, and for protecting the legs against the cold in riding, as a railway rug." In Department's decision of January 4, 1886 (synopsis 7298), these articles were described as traveliug rugs, and were held not to be dutiable as blankets. As the Department has heretofore practically decided (see synopses 7565 and 8162) that the term " screens," found in the same paragraph, applies to all articles com- mercially known as screens, and as it is satisfied that these articles are now, and were at the time of the passage of the act of March 3, commercially known as rugs, the decision first aforesaid (synopsis 543) will, in accordance with an opinion of the Attorney-General received in this case, be modified accordingly. The entry in the present instance may, therefore, be reliquidated at the rate applicable to rugs under T. I., 378, and the necessary steps taken for refunding the excess of duty exacted. (8702.) Treasury Department, March 15, 1888. Waste, woolen or worsted. — The Department is in receipt of letters dated the 5th and 7th instant, respectively, from the United States attorney at Philadelphia, in which he reports the trials of the cases (No. 8) of The United States against George W. Patton et al. and (Nos. 9 and 10) of The United States against John Dobson et al., which resulted in judgments in favor of the defendants. These suits were brought in the United States district court for the eastern dis- trict of Pennsylvania for the recovery of additional duties claimed to be due the United States on certain importations of so-called " woolen" or u worsted" waste, which had been entered by the defendants at the time of importation as " woolen waste," under the provision in Schedule K (T. I., 361), at a duty of 10 cents per pound, but which was classified by the collector of customs as u scoured" wool, at a duty of 30 cents per pound, the claim of the United States being that the defendants were liable for the difference in duties between the said rates. The main question involved was whether the merchandise, which consisted of broken tops, laps, rovings, slubbings, e*e., known as thread-waste, carbonated waste, woolen waste, worsted waste, etc., was commercially known as " woolen waste" at the time of the passage of the act of March 3, 1883, and on this point the United States attorney reports that the evidence produced by the plaintiffs was to the effect that it was commercially known as " worsted waste," and that the evidence adduced by the defendants tended to show that it was commercially known as u woolen waste, " whereupon the judge charged the jury that whether the article was " woolen or worsted waste, the consequences are the same so far as concerns this case ; that the provisions of the statute whereby woolen waste is made liable to duty apply as well to this wool waste, whether it be waste arising from the manufacture of worsted or woolen goods." The United States attorney further reports that the jury, in accordance with such charge, found verdicts in favor of the defendants, thus sustaining their claim that said merchandise is liable to duty at the rate prescribed by said schedule for " woolen waste," and also that, in his opinion, the verdicts were correct and in accordance with the evidence. Upon submitting the matter to the United States Attorney-General, that officer advises u that no appeal or writ of error will be taken by the United States, as there is no sufficient reason to believe that any error was committed against the Govern- ment." You will therefore be governed accordingly, and reliquidate the entries covered by the suit first mentioned in accordance with such decision. You will also apply this decision to any other similar suits now pending at your port, and to all similar importations where the requirements of law as to protest, appeal, institution of suit, etc., have been fully complied with. Hereafter importations of merchandise which WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 173 may be commercially known as woolen or worsted waste should also oe classified in accordance with such decision. It is understood that the importations which were the subject of the two suits last mentioned (those against Dobson) were made at New York, and that the additional duties sued for were assessed at that port. Instructions as to the settlement of those suits will be accordingly forwarded to the collector of customs at New York. (8731.) Treasury Department, April 20, 1888, Woolen and worsted waste. — In reply to your letter of the 17th instant, you are informed that Department's rulings of the 15th ultimo, carrying out the decision of the court concerning " woolen or worsted waste," which is the one to which it is presumed you call attention (copy herewith inclosed), relates to waste which was commercially known as " woolen waste " at the time of the passage of the act of March 3, 1883, and that such decision does not cover any commodity which might be now manufactured from wool for the purpose of being introduced into the United States under the name of "waste." (8793.) Treasury Department, May 24, 1888. Woolen cloth known as coffin-cloth not dutiable as dress-goods. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 24th of February last, transmitting the appeal (4213 r) of Mr. F. Brettschneider from your assessment of duty at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem on certain so-called women's and children's dress goods imported by the appellant, per Wetland, November 15, 1887, and claimed by him to be dutiable at 5 cents per square yard and 35 per cent ad valorem, under T. I., 365. It appears that the merchandise in question is cloth too heavy for women's and children's dress goods, but intended for manufacture into shrouds for men, women, and children, and that it is a wool cloth w^th a cotton warp, and commercially known as " coffin cloth." It is dutiable at the rate assessed, under T. I., 362. (8860.) Treasury Department, July 16, 1888. Church-seating not dutiable as hemp carpeting. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 21st ultimo, submitting the appeal (5263 s) of Rev. H. Martin Hart from your assessment of duty at the rate of 40 per cent ad valorem on certain " church-seating" imported by him at your port, and claimed to be dutiable as "hemp carpeting," under T. I., 377. The merchandise in question, which is intended for use as mats or cushions for the seats in the cathedral at Denver, is composed of hemp and wool, and, as wool appears to be a substantial component, it is not, under the Department's decision of May 29, 1886 (synopsis 7548), entitled to entry as hemp carpeting. The claim of the appellant is therefore rejected. * * * (8944.) Treasury Department, July 19, 1888. Wools, Turkish, Eskissar, and Roumanian. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 30th ultimo, further reporting on the appeal (1202 s) of Messrs. Samuel Bunting's Sons & Co., from your decision assessing duty at the rate of 10 cents per pound on certain wools imported into your port, per the Chicago and Germanic, 174 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. October 14, 1887, which the appellants claim to be dutiable at the rate of 2| cents per pound, under the provision in Schedule K for third-class wools. It appears from the special reports of the appraiser, transmitted by you in connec- tion with the said appeal, that the wools in question consisted of unwashed Turkish, Eskissar, and Roumanian wools, which, upon careful examination, were found to contain a considerable percentage of Merino blood, and that they were therefore returned for classification as wools of the first class, at a duty of 10 per cent. The question as to the correctness of such classification was submitted to the con- ference of New York appraisers, now being held at your port, and the Department is in receipt of a communication from the Board, dated the 16th instant, from which it appears that the members are unanimous in the opinion that the said wools were properly classified as wools of the first class, dutiable at the rate of 10 cents per pound, under the provisions of Schedule K, T. L, 357. Your decision is therefore affirmed. (8956.) Treasury Department, August 18, 1888. u Cheviots." — Your letter of May 29 last was duly received, submitting the appeal (3645 s) of Messrs. H. Bernheimer, Son & Co., from your assessment of duty ,atthe rate of 35 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem on certain so-called worsted cloths imported by them, per Celtic, December 3, 1887, and claimed to be dutiable as man- ufactures of worsted, under the provisions of T. 1., 363, according to their value per • pound. The appraiser reports that the goods, which are known as cheviots, are composed wholly of wool, and were therefore returned for duty as manufactures of wool, under T. I., 362. Your assessment of duty thereon is hereby affirmed. * * * (8986.) Treasury Department, September 5, 1888. Wool blanketing. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 3d ultimo transmitting the appeals (7138s and 7139s) of Messrs. Stone & Downer from your assessment of duty at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem on certain so-called " wool blanketing" imported by the appellants, per Samaria and Catalonia, June 20 and July 10, 1888, and claimed by them to be dutiable either at 18 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem, as woolen blanketing, under T. I., 363, or at 20 cents per pound and 30 per cent ad valorem, as endless belts or felts for paper or printing machines, and returned as nonenumerated manufacture in part of wool, under T. I., 362. It is understood that the so-called "blanketing" in question is composed in part of wool, is imported for the express purpose of being manufactured into card-cloth, does not assimilate to the flannels and blankets provided for in T. I., 363, and is not used for the same purposes as are endless belts and felts. Said goods, being in part of wool, are excluded from classification under T. I., 363, and, not being otherwise provided for, are dutiable under T. I., 362, in accord- ance with Department's decisions of March 10, 1886 (synopsis 7402), April 22, 1887 (synopsis 8188), June 2, 1888 (synopsis 8874), and July 12, 1888 (imprinted), on a like appeal of the same importers. Your assessment of duty thereon is hereby affirmed. (901 2.) Treasury Department, September 10, 1888. Wool-back worsted coatings. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 25th ultimo, submitting the appeal (8442s) of Messrs E, Oelbermann & Co., from WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 175 your assessment of duty at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem on certain manufactures of wool imported by them per Waesland, May 21, Schiedam, May 24, and Westernland, May 12, 1886. The appraiser reports that the goods in question are commercially known as " wool- back v worsted coatings, and are composed of wool and worsted, and that they were classified under T. I., 362. The goods, being composed in part of wool, are expressly excluded from classifi- cation under T. I., 363, as claimed by the appellants. Your assessment of duty is hereby affirmed. (9018.) Treasury Department, November 23, 1888. Woolen piano and table covers. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 19tii ultimo, submitting the appeal (24870 of Messrs. F. Victor & Ache] is, from your assessment of duty at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem, on certain woolen piano and table covers, imported by them per Lahn, March 12, 1888. The appellants claim that the covers in question are entitled to entry at the rate of 40 per cent ad valorem under T. I., 378. The paragraph in said provision of law reads as follows, viz: "Mats, rugs, screens, covers, hassocks, bedsides, and other portions of carpets or carpetings, shall be sub- jected to the rate of duty herein imposed on carpets or carpeting of like character or description," and as said piano or table covers are not portions of carpets or carpet- ings, this provision is manifestly inapplicable to them. The covers in question were properly dutiable at the rate assessed under the pro- vision in T. I., 362, for "all manufactures of wool of every description or, made wholly or in part of wool," and your assessment of duty thereon is hereby affirmed. (9133.) Treasury Department, January 22, 1889. Coat linings. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 15th ultimo, reporting further on the appeal (8965s) of Messrs. H. H. Schwietering & Co. from your assessment of duty at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem on certain coat linings (so called), imported by them per Trave, April 28, 1888, and claimed to be dutiable at the rate of 7 cents per square yard and 40 per cent ad valorem, under the provision for "coat linings * * * composed in part of wool worsted, the hair of the alpaca, goat, or other animal." The appraiser at your port reports that the goods in question are a manufacture of worsted, which is used for the same purpose as light-weight cassimeres sometimes are, viz, for lining overcoats; that it could be used also in the manufacture of neglige shirts, and that it was returned for duty as a "manufacture * * * com- posed wholly or in part of worsted." The appraiser at Boston, to whom a sample was referred, reports that the goods are in fact coat linings, being manufactured expressly for that purpose, and imported and dealt in by tailoring firms, or those dealing in tailors 7 trimmings, and that any use other than for coat linings to which they might be put would be quite excep- tional. The appraiser at Philadelphia also reports that these goods are commercially known and chiefly used as coat linings, and that they are so classified at that port. From an inspection of the sample submitted, and in view of these reports, the Department decides that the goods are dutiable as coat linings, under T. I., 365, and you are authorized to readjust the entry in question accordingly, and also the entries of similar goods covered by the appeals specified in the annexed schedule, and to take measures for refunding the excess of duty. t (9206* ) 176 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF "WOOL*. Treasury Department, January 28, 1889, Noils. — The Department is in receipt of a letter dated the 15th instant, from Spe, cial Agent Legare Phenix, in relation to the classification of wool noils at your port, more especially those imported by the firm of Seed & Denby, which are consigned to said firm by Messrs. Bowes Bros., of Liverpool. The special agent states that there is a great diversity of opinion at yonr port, Boston, and Philadelphia, as to whether the merchandise consists of noils taken from first, second, or third class wool, and he suggests that, inasmuch as the noils are usually invoiced and entered simply either as " third-class " or " carpet noils," that the consignees be required to specify in their "entries the actual character of the noils, so as to show from what wool they are made, that is, whether from Egyptian, Turkish, Persian, English, or what. The suggestion of the special agent seems to be a good one, and you are requested, if practicable, to carry it into effect. (922 !•) Treasury Department, February 23, 1889. Wool — Scoured wool-tops. — The Department is in receipt of a letter dated the 13th instant, from the U. S. attorney for the southern district of New York, reporting the trial, on the 5th and 6th instant, before Judge Lacombe and a jury, of the case of A. D. Juilliard et al. v. Magone, collector (N. S. 11320), in the U. S. circuit court for his district. The case involved the classification of three cases of scoured wool-tops imported by said firm from Bradford via Liverpool, and which were classified as scoured wool of the second class, imported in other than the ordinary condition of scoured wool, and dutiable under T. L, 356, etc., at the rate of 60 cents per pound. The plaintiffs claimed that the merchandise was scoured wool of the second class, valued at less than 30 cents per pound at port of shipment, and hence dutiable at the rate only of 30 cents per pound under T. I., 356 and 357. The specific question was submitted to the jury whether, upon the evidence sub- mitted, the merchandise was wool imported in any other than ordinary condition, as practiced in 1883 and prior thereto, and the jury answered said question in the affirmative, whereupon the court directed a verdict for the defendant. It will be seen that the finding of the jury in this case is in keeping with the decision heretofore made by the Department on wool-tops (see Synopses 4777 and 7217), under which it is understood duty is now assessed on similar importations. The United States attorney reports that, after the rendition of the verdict in the above case, he was informed by the plaintiffs that they were thoroughly satisfied with the trial of the case as a test, and should not appeal from the decision thereof. The decisions of the Department being thus sustained, the practice thereunder as to the classification of wool tops will be continued as heretofore. (9261.) Treasury Department, March 9, 1889. Value of wool at foreign port of shipment. — I return herewith the in clo- sures of your letter of the 18th ultimo, in which you request instructions as to the proper method of obtaining the per-pound value of wool of class 3, which is returned by the weigher at weights less than those stated in the invoice and entry, and you refer to a paragraph in Department's decision of August 10, 1887 (Synopsis 8380), which seems to you to conflict with article 491 of the regulations. In reply to your inquiries you are informed that the paragraph in Department's decision of August 10, 1887 (Synopsis 8380), to which you refer is not deemed to be in conflict with article 491 of the Regulations. This article provides that when the actual market value of wool at the last place of shipment to the United States, WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 177 exclusive of charges in such port, shall have been ascertained, no further inquiry is necessary to ascertain the value for the purpose of fixing the rate of duty to which the merchandise is liable, and is based upon a circular letter issued by the Depart- ment January 22, 1884. The actual market value of the wool at the place of shipment is to be ascertained by the appraiser, under tlie direction of the collector pursuant to the authority given him for that purpose under section 2906, that section being modified in the case of wool by the provision of the tariff act of 1883, which substitutes "the last port or place whence exported to the United States" for the "principal markets of the coun- try, from which the importation has been made," and subject also to the further limitation contained in section 2900, that duty shall not be assessed upon an amount less than the invoice or entered value, this limitation applying in cases where the rate of duty depends upon the ascertained value of the merchandise, per pound, per yard, etc. It would, therefore, seem to be the duty of the appraiser, in all cases, in the first instance, to ascertain the value of an importation of wool at the last port or place whence exported to the United States, excluding charges in such port. In no case, however, is he permitted to fix such value at a less sum per pound than that con- tained in the invoice and entry. It would appear from your communication that the difficulty arises in those cases where there is a discrepancy between the weight of the wool as invoiced and the actual weight as found by the United States weigher at the custom-house. In most cases the actual price paid for the wool, per pound, would be correctly represented by dividing the total amount paid for the importation (less charges) by the number of pounds returned by the United States weigher, and if the appraiser is satisfied that this result correctly exhibits the value of the wool, per pound, at the place whence exported to the United States, excluding charges in such port, he may cer- tify and return the same accordingly to the collector for classification and assess- ment of duty. (9281.) Treasury Department, March 22, 1889. Wool — Broken tops. — The Department is in receipt of the appeals, hereinafter mentioned, from your decision assessing duty at the rate of 60 cents per pound on certain so-called "worsted waste " imported by the parties named, which the respec- tive appellants claim to be dutiable at the rate of 10 cents per pound, under the pro- vision in Schedule K (paragraph 361) for "woolen * * * waste," but which merchandise was returned by the United States appraiser as "scoured broken wool tops," etc., on classes 1 and 2, costing under 30 cents per pound in the unwashed condition. Upon investigation, the claim of the appellants appear to have no foundation in fact. The merchandise, as the special reports of the United States appraising offi- cers and an inspection of official samples show, is not woolen waste within the proper meaning of that term as used in the tariff acts (paragraph 361) where it occurs in connection with "rags," "shoddy," "mungo," and " flocks," and which term has been heretofore defined by the Department (Synopsis 5820) (a) to apply only to a refuse material resulting from the various processes of woolen manufacture, or, as Worces- ter defines the word to mean, "something of little or no account or value, as the refuse of cotton or silk," but is in fact a fine quality of scoured and purified wool, of classes 1 and 2 in the form either wholly of broken tops or with broken tops predomi- nating to the extent of at least 70 per cent, which, as proofs submitted to the Depart- ment seem to indicate, have been purposely broken with a view to procuring its illegal admission as "waste." a See note to 6884. H. Mis. 94 12 178 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Scoured wool, imported in the form of top or tops, similar to the merchandise in question, can not be removed from its proper classification under the statute and the decisions of the courts f see Synopsis 9261) either by reason of the tops being broken purposely or otherwise, or on account of a small percentage of thread, or other waste being mixed with it, and as it is clear to my mind that the said mer- chandise is in fact wool advanced beyond the scoured condition and suitable for immediate use, and is, therefore, wool imported in other than the ordinary condition in which wools were imported at the time of the passage of the act of March 3, 1883, I decide that it is dutiable at twice the rate of duty prescribed for scoured woo)s of the classes to which it belongs, under said Schedule K (paragraph 356). which, among other things prescribes that "the duty upon wool of the sheep * * *, which shall be imported in any other than ordinary condition, as now and heretofore practiced, or which shall be changed in its character or condition for the purpose of evading the duty, or which shall be reduced in value by the admixture of dirt or any other foreign substance, shall be twice the duty to which it would be otherwise subject." Your decision is therefore affirmed. * * * (9303*) Treasury Department, April 22, 1889. Weight of woolen and worsted goods. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 6th instant, reporting further on the appeal (2079 v) of Messrs. Neu- stadter Brothers from your assessment of duty at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem, on certain wool flannel imported by them per Servia, Febru- ary 20, 1888, and claimed to be dutiable at the rate of 24 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem. The appellants claim that the weight of the goods as taken by the appraiser who averaged the boards at the weight of one board is incorrect, and that the invoice presented shows the exact net weight of the goods sworn to by the manufacturer before the United States consul. The appraiser reports that the weight of the boards was ascertained by weighing one board and multiplying the result by the number of pieces. The Department being of opinion that this method of ascertaining the amount of allowance to be made for the weight of boards upon which flannels and other woolen and worsted goods are rolled was inadequate, the question was submitted to the board of local appraisers in conference at your port, and from the report of the recorder of said board, dated the 13th instant, it appears that the practice at the different ports varies, and the appraisers unanimously recommend the adoption of the method of weighing one board out of every ten, to ascertain their average weight. This recommendation is approved, and you will please direct the appraiser to adopt this method in ascertaining the weights of all woolen and worsted goods where the rate or amount of duty is dependent on the weight of the goods. As the goods covered by the appeal of Messrs. Neustadter Brothers were entered for consumption, and it is now impracticable to ascertain their actual weight, the Department can afford them no relief, and your assessment of duty thereon must stand affirmed. (9346.) Treasury Department, May 27, 1889. Worsted cloths. — The Department duly received your letter of the 17th instant, transmitting the appeal (No. 6682 v) of Messrs. H. Herrman, Sternbach & Co. from your assessment of duty, at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem, on certain merchandise imported by them per Adriatic, April 8, 1889. The appellants, in their protest, claim that the goods in question "are manufac- tures of worsted and contain no wool, and as such, costing under 60 cents per pound, WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 179 are liable to a duty of only 18 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem/' under Schedule K (T.I., new, 363), act of March 3, 1883. It appears from the samples submitted that these cloths are what are popularly known as coatings, suitings, etc., and are so finished and close as to be specially adapted for use in the manufacture of garments worn by men and boys. With the papers transmitted is the report of the chemist at the United States laboratory at New York, to the effect that samples of the cloth have been chemically and micro- scopically examined by him and " found to be composed wholly of wool fibers." The assistant appraiser in his report, which is concurred in by the appraiser, states "that the merchandise covered by the invoices in question, consisted of cloth com- posed wholly of wool, and therefore dutiable under the provisions of paragraph 362, T. L, new, as a manufacture of wool, valued at less than 80 cents per pound, at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem." This view accords with the unanimous conclusion reached by the local appraisers of the principal ports at their conference held in New York, in April last, "that the so-called worsted coatings, suitings, etc., were manufactured of wool, and should be returned as property dutiable according to value uuder the provisions in 362, T. I., for all manufactures of wool of every description made wholly or in part of wool not specially enumerated or provided for." The question involved thus becomes one of fact, and the proper customs officers, upon whom the law has conferred jurisdiction in the first instance to examine and certify as to the facts, having found and decided that these goods are "woolen cloths" and "manufactures of wool" within the meaning of those terms as used in the tariff act, their decision in this respect ought not be disturbed, unless it clearly appears that they have misapprehended the facts, or reached a conclusion unsupported by them. The question in the form presented by this appeal comes here for the first time, and is unembarrassed by any previous Departmental ruling upon it. After careful research, I am unable to find any decision of the Department which can serve as a precedent for the disposition of this case. It does, however, appear from the files of the Department that at least three times during the past four years application has been made in behalf of the domestic manufactures of woolen cloths to the Secretary of the Treasury for instructions to the collectors of customs at the several ports of entry, to classify and assess duty upon importations of goods of this character under paragraph 362, as woolen cloths or manufactures of wool, it being represented that they were erroneously classified under paragraph 363, and elaborate arguments were presented in support of this proposition, but no decision upon the subject was ever announced by the Department. It is claimed in support of the contention that these cloths are manufactures com- posed wholly of worsted, and not specially enumerated or provided for in the tariff act; that the wool which is used in their manufacture has been combed as well as carded, and that whenever wool in the process of its manufacture into yarn is combed, the product is invariably a substance or material known as "worsted," and that when this substance or material is wholly employed in the manufacture of cloth the result is a manufacture " composed wholly of worsted " not specially provided for, and therefore dutiable at the lower rate prescribed in paragraph 363. It is claimed that this conclusion inevitably follows, without reference to the kind or quality of wool used, or the uses and purposes for which the manufactured article may be intended or adapted. But it is conceded that the wool now commonly used in the manufacture of the goods which are the subject of this appeal is not of the kind known as "combing wool" designated as class two (paragraph 354) in the tariff act; but is a fine "cloth- ing wool" belonging to class one (paragraph 353). It is further shown that it is only within recent years that these cloths have been known to commerce, the use of im- proved machinery having made it practicable to manufacture them from the fine clothing wool which has been subjected to the process of combing after it has been carded. 180 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. It seems to be undisputed that the definition of " worsted" was originally con- fined to the product of long-combing wools. Webster, in the latest edition, described the term as follows: u Worsted, well-twisted yarn, spun of long staple wool which has been combed to lay the fibers parallel, used for carpets, hosiery, gloves, and the like." It therefore becomes important to determine the sense in which the term is used in the tariff act ; whether according to its original and proper meaning, or whether it is to have a broader application and to be so construed as to include a large and important class of fabrics which were not within its scope when the term was first employed in our revenue laws. In all cases of ambiguity, or of conflicting statutory provisions, the familiar rule of construction requires that the intent of Congress should, if possible, be discov- ered, and such a view adopted as will harmonize and not destroy the manifest scheme of the statute. In the present case there are two paragraphs under which it is contended the goods in question may be classified: 1. Paragraph 362: " Woolen cloths, woolen shawls, and all manufactures of wool of every description, made wholly or in part of wool, not otherwise enumerated or provided for in this act," etc. 2. Paragraph 363: "Flannels, blankets, etc., woolen and worsted yarns,, and all manufactures of every description, composed wholly or in part of worsted, the hair of the alpaca, goat, or other animals, except such as are composed in part of wool, not specially enumerated or provided for in this act, valued," etc. If paragraph 362 stood alone it would not be disputed that worsted cloths were dutiable thereunder, either under the specific designation of woolen cloths, or under the designation of all manufactures of wool of every description, worsted itself being a manufactured fabric or material made from wool either wholly or in part. After a careful examination and consideration of all the papers and authorities bearing upon the question, I have reached the conclusion that there is nothing in the language employed in paragraph 363 which exempts these cloths from the oper- ation of the provisions of the preceding paragraph. The term " woolen cloths," in paragraph 362, is a specific designation of a class which was, I think, intended to include all cloths made from wool. The term " cloths " has a technical and restricted signification, and can properly be only applied to the thicker and heavier fabrics of wool, which are so finished and close as to be adapted for use by the tailor or clothier in the manufacture of gar- ments for men and boys. It appears that these so-called "worsted cloths" are made from clothing wool in the same mills in which other cloths are made, and by the same machinery; that the wool is carded as well as combed, and that they differ in no essential respect in the process of manufacture from other woolen cloths, except that while in the latter case the wool is simply carded, in the former it is both carded and combed; and they are both adapted to the same uses. They are also classed with woolen cloths by many expert authorities upon the subject. In the report of the judges at the Centennial Exposition, consisting of five American and ten foreign experts, they are reported upon under class 235, which comprises the woolen cloths, and not under class 238, which comprises the worsted and combed wool fabrics. The same classification is followed by the American commissioner at the Paris Exposition of 1878, where they are reported upon under class 33, cloth and other woolen fabrics, and not under class 32, which pertains to combed wool and worsted fabrics. A noted writer, Mr. Alcan, in his treatise on woolen manufactures, published in 1866, described worsted fabrics as follows : We rank in the sixth class those innumerable articles whose wool is mixed with cotton, flax, silk, the hair of the goat and alpaca, cashmere, etc., to obtain the vast branch of products known under the name of Orleans, coburghs, alpacas, bereges, lastings, gauze, grenadines, mozambiques, foulards, tissues, for furniture, etc., and which are designated more particularly under the generic name of worsted in England. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OP WOOL. 181 There being a special enumeration or provision in the tariff act, to wit : Woolen cloths, under which these goods may be classified, it follows that paragraph 363 has no application to them, because it includes only such manufactures of worsted as are not specially enumerated or provided for. In the case of Barber v. Schell (107 U. S., 617), it was held that designations qual- ified by the word " cotton," in the act of 1846, were designations of articles by spe- cial description as contradistinguished from designations by a commercial name or a name of trade, and are designations of quality and material; and applying the same principle to the term u woolen" as a designation of cloths, it must be held that it includes all cloths made of wool, and that commercial usage can not be resorted to for the purpose of showing that in the trade the term is restricted to those cloths which were manufactured from wool which had been carded and not combed. A review of the various tariff enactments upon the subject from 1816 to the pres- ent time leads to the conclusion that the term " manufactures ot worsted" in par- agraph 363 was intended to include only those fabrics not specially enumerated or provided for which are made from the long staple or combing wools described in paragraph 354. In all the tariff laws the term seems to have been used as synony- mous with that of " stuff goods," which, being of a cheaper quality, were always subjected to a lower rate of duty than woolen cloths and manufactures of wool gen- erally. The first tariff on woolen goods is found in the act of 1816, where an ad valorem duty of 25 per cent was laid on " woolen manufactures of all descriptions, or of which wool is the material of chief value, except blankets, woolen rugs, and worsted or stuff goods. n Two things here are worthy to be observed. First, that the term " worsted goods" is used in this act as synonymous with " stuff goods;" and, second, worsted goods are described as " woolen manufactures." In the tariff act of 1824 a duty was first imposed upon " worsted-stuff goods," and they were classed under the head of " manufactures of wool or of which wool shall be a component part." The same classification was preserved in the act of 1828. The act of 1832 imposed a duty of 5 per cent ad valorem on " all milled and fulled cloths known by the name of plains, kerseys, or kendal cottons, composed exclu- sively of wool, not exceeding 35 cents a square yard in value," and 10 per cent on "worsted-stuff goods, shawls, and other manufactures of silk and worsted," and on "all other manufactures of wool" 50 per cent ad valorem. Under this statute worsted cloths would have been dutiable at the same rate as other manufactures of wool. It is also to be observed that the term "worsted-stuff goods" is retained, to which is added "shawls and other manufactures of silk and worsted." In the tariff act of 1842 "worsted-stuff goods" are again recognized as a manu- facture of wool, and are excepted from the provision imposing the high rate of duty, and are included under the designation of " all manufactures, not otherwise speci- fied, of combed wool or worsted, and manufactures of worsted and silk combined." In the succeeding act of 1846 a duty of 30 per cent ad valorem was imposed upon "manufactures of wool, or of which wool shall be a component material of chief value, not otherwise provided for," and 25 per cent upon "manufactures of worsted or of which worsted shall be a component material not otherwise provided for." The word worsted does not occur in the tariff act of 1857. In the subsequent tariff acts of 1861 and 1862, worsteds are mentioned in connection with dress delaines and goods of similar description and bunting, as follows: "And all other manufactures of worsted or of which worsted shall be a component material not otherwise provided for," the connection showing that worsteds were considered as varieties of "stuff goods." The act of 1862 is the first act in which woolen cloths are specifically mentioned, 182 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. and it will be observed that the heavier worsted goods were made to pay the same rate of duty as woolen cloths. In the act of 1864 there is found, after a reference to bunting, the following: "And on all other manufactures of worsted, mohair, alpaca, or go at s' hair, or of which worsted, mohair, alpaca, or goats' hair shall be a component material not otherwise provided for, 50 per cent ad valorem." The tariff act of 1867 is substantially the same in respect to worsteds as the act of 1883, except instead of the phrase "not otherwise provided for," in the act of 1867 there is inserted in both paragraphs the phrase "not specially enumerated or provided for in this act." All these statutes clearly had in view the manufactures from long-combing wools, including the varieties of stuff goods designated by the names referred to by Mr. Alcan and the other authorities. In a statute words are to be construed with reference to the company which they keep ; and when the term " manufactures of worsted" is found invariably associated with the cheaper worsted fabrics, known as "stuff goods," and the terms are some- times used interchangeably, the presumption can, I think, be fairly indulged that Congress intended to employ the term in its original and restricted signification. The case of Elliott v. Swartout (10 Peters, 137) is relied upon to sustain the claim that these coatings and suitings are manufactures of worsteds, and hence are dutia- ble at the lower rate ; but I do not consider the case fairly susceptible of such an application. The precise point involved was whether certain worsted shawls and worsted suspenders were dutiable under that provision of the act of 1832 which imposed a tariff of 50 per cent ad valorem upon " all other manufactures of wool, or of which wool is a component part." That act imposed a duty of 10 per cent on "worsted-stuff goods, worsted shawls, and other manufactures of silk and worsted." And it beiug conceded by the counsel for the Government in that case that worsted is made out of wool by combing, and that it becomes thereby a distinct article, well known in commerce under the denomination of "worsted," it of course followed that these articles could not be classified as manufactures of wool. But the court did not hold that all manufactured articles in the production of which combed wool is used are to be regarded as manufactures of worsted. On the contrary, the chief justice of the Supreme Court in a subsequent case at the circuit (Riggs v. Frick, Taney's Circuit Court Decisions, 100) disclaimed any such broad application of the decision in the former case. At page 105 he says: "But neither of these terms — ' combed wool' nor 'carded wooF — is used in any part of the law in describing the manufac- tures therein mentioned; the distinction taken in the act of Congress is between 'worsted' and 'woolen.' Although worsted is made of combed wool, yet we have seen nothing that would justify us in concluding that all manufactures of combed wool are worsted. On the contrary, for aught that appears to the court, there may be a variety of manufactures of combed wool which are not worsted, and which would be liable to the duties imposed on woolens." If, as I think, it satisfactorily appears that the term "manufactures of worsted" when first introduced into our tariff laws referred exclusively to certain products manufactured from the long-combing wools, then it should be so construed and lim- ited in all subsequent statutes upon the subject into which it may be introduced. It has been repeatedly held that the designation or description of an article or class of articles in a tariff enactment is not to be extended beyond the articles which, according to commercial usage prevailing at the time the law is passed, are included therein, and that articles which may be subsequently invented or produced composed of different materials can not properly be included in such classification, although they have the same commercial designation and are applied to the same uses. (Curtiss v. Martin, 3 Howard, 106; United States v. One Hundred and Twelve Casks of Sugar, 8 Peters, 277 ; Roosevelt v. Maxwell, 3 Blatchford, 391 ; Baxter v. Maxwell, 4 Blatchford, 32; Bacon v. Bancroft, 1 Story, 341; Lee v. Lincoln, lb., 610; United States v. Breed, 1 Sumner, 159.) WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OP "WOOL. 183 And in Roosevelt v. Maxwell, supra, it was held that when a term or classification when first introduced into a tariff act has, according to commercial usage, a well- understood and a well-defined signification, which limits its scope and application, and such term is transferred to and incorporated in subsequent tariff laws, it will be presumed that Congress did not intend to use the term in the later statutes in a sense different from that in which it had been used in the first enactment. It being undisputed that the term " manufactures of worsted " when first employed in the tariff act of 1842 was commercially known to include only certain products of the long-combing wools, it would follow that, when used in subsequent statutes, it must be so understood if the principle of these decisions of the Supreme Court is correct. In determining the question involved, regard should also be had to the provisions of section 2499, that if two or more rates of duty should be applicable to any imported article, it shall be classified for duty under the highest of such rates. There is certainly room for very serious contention that the goods in question should be classified under paragraph 362 as well as 363; and in such cases it would seem to be the duty of the revenue officers to impose the higher rate. It is only in this way that in doubtful or balanced cases a judicial construction can be had. The Government can not apply to the courts for an interpretation of the law, but the importer can, if he deems the rate of duty imposed excessive or unlawful. In construing tariff laws where there is doubt as to the classification arising from the employment of ambiguous terms, regard should also be had to the general scheme or policy which underlies their enactment, which seeks to graduate the rate of duty according to the cost or expense involved in the production of the articles to which it relates, and especially according to the quantum of labor, skilled and unskilled, which may be required for their manufacture. We find that this principle has been almost invariably observed in framing every act imposing duties, and the Supreme Court of the United States, in the case of Movius v. Arthur (95 U. S., 104), regarded it as of great value in determining doubtful cases where it was sought to so construe the law as to make the less expensive article pay the higher rate of duty. From the data before me it appears that the cost of the machinery and labor required for the manufacture of these coatings and suitings is greater than that required for the manufacture of cassimeres and other woolen cloths which are used for the same purposes, and yet if duty is assessed under paragraph 363, they will be made to pay a rate of duty in many cases 30 per cent less than cassimeres and other woolen cloths costing in the foreign market the same price. It is not to be pre- sumed that Congress intended so great a departure from the general plan of the statute. As bearing upon this question of the intent of Congress, it is also a circumstance of great weight that in the present as well as in former tariff laws, woolen and worsted yarns are subjected to the same rate of duty, and if it was the intention to discriminate in favor of worsted products generally by imposing upon them a lower rate, this discrimination would have been extended to the different kinds of yarn, for it is in the treatment of the wool while in course of manufacture into yarn that the only difference occurs which creates the distinction between woolen and worsted. So, too, in the case of ready-made clothing — there is no discrimination in the tariff law between clothing made from woolen and that made from so-called worsted cloths, but both are made to pay the same duty ; and it is not reasonable to infer that it was intended to subject to different rates of duty cloths manufactured from yarn paying the same rate and used in the manufacture of clothing which pays when imported the same rate, and it should not be so held if by any fair construction of the law it can be avoided. The familiar maxim should be applied that "A thing within the intention is within the statute, though not within the letter, and a thing within the letter is not within the statute unless within the intention." 184 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Your decision being in accordance with the evident intention of the statute is, therefore, affirmed. The questions involved in this appeal having been submitted to the Solicitor of the Treasury, the opinion of that officer, which is in harmony with the views above expressed, is herewith transmitted for your information. This decision will also apply to the appeal (6659*;) of Ballin, Joseph & Co., on entry of similar goods per City of Paris, April 11 last, which was transmitted with your letter of the 16th instant. (9400.) [Opinion of the Solicitor of the Treasury above referred to.] Department of Justice, Office of the Solicitor of the Treasury; Washington, D. C, May 25, 1889. Sir: I have considered the questions involved in the matter of the appeal of Herr- man, Sternbach & Co., No. 5220. This is an appeal, after proper protest, from the ascertainment and assessment of duties by the collector of the port of New York on certain " worsted coatings " classified as " manufactures of wool costing under 60 cents per pound, and liable to duty at 35 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem." The collector of the port of New York has decided that this merchandise was to be classified for the purposes of duty under paragraph 362, T. I., new, which reads as follows : "Woolen cloths, woolen shawls, and all manufactures of wool of every descrip- tion, made wholly or in part of wool, not specially enumerated or provided for in this act, valued at not exceeding 80 cents per pound, 35 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem ; valued at above 80 cents per pound, 35 cents per pound and in addi- tion thereto 40 per cent ad valorem." The officers of the port have held that these goods were " manufactures of wool." The importer alleges them to be a " manufacture composed wholly or in part of worsted," and that they should be classified as such, under paragragh 363, T. I., new, which reads as follows : " Flannels, blankets, hats of wool, knit goods and all goods made on knitting frames, balmorals, woolen and worsted yarns, and all manufactures of every description, com- posed wholly or in part of worsted, the hair of the alpaca, goat, or other animals (except such as are composed in part of wool), not specially enumerated or provided for in this act, valued at not exceeding 30 cents per pound, 10 cents per pound; valued at above 30 cents per pound, and not exceeding 40 cents per pound, 12 cents per pound; valued at above 40 cents per pound and not exceeding 60 cents per pound, 18 cents per pound ; valued at above 60 cents per pound and not exceeding 80 cents per pound, 24 cents per pound, and in addition thereto upon all the above-named articles 35 per cent ad valorem; valued at above 80 cents per pound, 35 cents per pound and in addition thereto 40 per cenfc ad valorem." The two quotations above made from the act of March 3, 1883, are substantially the act of March 2, 1867. Prior to the action complained of in this appeal this class of merchandise had been recognized by customs officers as subject to duty under paragraph 363, as "worsteds " or as "manufactures of worsted." A ruling long persisted in, it is contended, ought not to be changed except for the gravest of reasons. Seemingly it is thought by many engaged in this contention that a wrong, if hoary with age, gains such a status that it is almost impious to attempt its dislodgment. It has been suggested that a reclassification of manufactures, such as are involved in this case, is an " alteration of the law," and that such an " alteration" would bring calamity to all business, and, therefore, that such ".alteration" would be criminal upon the part of the Secretary of the Treasury. Surely no sane person would contend that the Secretary, or any other officer of the Government, can " alter the law." Every one recognizes that power to be invested in the Congress alone; but it is made the duty of the Secretary of the Treasury to supervise the execution of the customs laws. He is charged with the duty and responsibility of properly executing these laws, and, of course, execut- ing them as he understands them. This responsibility is imposed upon him by his official oath and by the statutes. He is not necessarilly to execute these statutes as his predecessor understood them, or some other gentleman understands them, but as he understands them; and lapse of time, in which an error has been persisted in, is not a justification for him when WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 185 he is clearly satisfied that an erroneous construction has been given to the statutes by those who have preceded him. If an erroneous interpretation has been given of the act of March 2, 1867, or March 3, 1883, quiet will not come to the conscience of the present administrator of the law by the suggestion that the wrong may be nearly a quarter of a century old. When an erroneous interpretation is discovered, then is the opportune moment for its correction, and it is a gross perversion of lan- guage to say that he who, follows the dictates of conscience and an enlightened judg- ment, asserts what he believes to be the manifest will of the legislature, is guilty of the rank crime of usurping the functions of the legislature, and assuming to make " alterations in the law." The merchandise involved in this controversy consists of cloths made entirely from wool. They are thick, close, compact fulled cloths, of heavy weight, and they are suitable for men's clothing. They have all the characteristics of woolen cloths ; they are produced from precisely the same material. Every process in the preparation of the material, and of the manufacture, that is used in the production of woolen cloths, is resorted to in the production of so-called worsted cloths. They are of like value when finished; of like weight ; and are adapted to the same uses, and are used by the same class of persons. They are so nearly alike that it is only the expert who can distinguish one from the other, and in many instances the most expert examiner is unable by sight or by handling to determine one from the other until he has had an opportunity to unravel and carefully inspect the yarn from which the cloth is woven. But it is contended by the appellants that the processes used in the manufacture of the cloths are not the same; that in the case of worsted cloth one process is used not known to woolen; that the wool from which the worsted is woven is " cornbed," which is not the case with the woolen variety. In the manu- facture of woolen and of worsted cloth of to-day, the processes of washing, shearing, sorting, scouring, drying, oiling, pickering, carding dyeing, spinning, twisting, spool- ing, dressing, weaving, fulling, scouring, coloring, crabbing, shearing, pressing, brush- ing, are identically the same. The wool is of the same quality. It may be, and in this case is, fine short-staple merino wool, or wool of similar breeds, known as ''clothing-wool," In the process of manufacture, up to and including carding, the methods of the manufacture are precisely the same in both kinds of cloth; but at that point the wool intended for worsted cloth is subject to one additional manipu- lation. After being carded it is "combed." When "combed," however, the methods used in the manufacture of woolen cloth are again resumed and continued to the end, so that the only method known to worsted cloth not known to woolen is the one process of " combing." If, therefore, worsted cloths are not to be classified as manufactures of wool, it is because of this one difference in the process of manufacture, or because the " manu- factures of worsted" or " worsteds "have a " commercial designation. " This "com- mercial designation," however, to be available in this controversy, must have been adopted, applied, and recognized at or prior to the time when the commodity to which it was applied was first known to the tariff laws. Worsteds have been known to these laws since 1816, but the phraseology of the present law in all of its sub- stance was adopted first in the act of 1867, so that for the purposes of this contention it is enough to consider whether the worsted cloths of to-day were included among the articles to which the "commercial designation" of worsteds was applied at that period. In this connection we may remark that in the argument in the case of Riggs v. Frick it was asserted that the mere "combing" of the wool made any kind of cloth "worsted, 99 but the court said: "Although worsted is made of 1 combed 1 wool, yet we have seen nothing to justify us in concluding that all manufactures of ' combed ; wool are worsted. On the con- trary, for aught that appears to the court, there may be a variety of manufactures of 'combed' wool which are not worsted and that would be liable to the duties imposed on woolens." What was meant by "manufactures of worsteds" at the time of the passage of the act of 1867 is a most pertinent inquiry in discussing the question of " commercial designation." It was a manufacture that then existed that was to be affected by the law; it was something then known to commerce or to manufactures that was to receive this baptism of "worsteds." It was a something that then existed and had a place in the commercial world. If this is true, then no argument drawn from "commercial designation" can help the case of the appellants, for at that time the class of cloths known to this con- troversy had no existence. If there were at that time a few manufactures somewhat similar to cloths of this character they were known by another name than that of worsted; they were known as diagonals, as suitings, as corkscrews, as trouserings, and not as worsteds. The worsteds of that period were thin, light stuffs adapted to the clothing of 186 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. women and children. They were very far removed in character from cloths. Worsted yarn at that time was made by " combing" the coarse long-staple wool of English breeds. There was no machinery at that time capable of " combing" the fine, short wool of the Saxony, Merino, and similar breeds such as enter in the manufacture of the cloths in controversy. The fiber of the coarser wools equals ab*ut l-480th part of an inch in diameter. The finer about the l-1300th part of an inch in diameter. The serrations of the former are about 1,000 to the inch, and of the latter 2,700. The length of the former varies from 6 to 16 inches ; the latter frequently are not longer than from 1 to 2 inches. The worsteds of the period of the enactment of the law were " combed" from coarser longer varieties. The worsteds of this controversy are " combed" from the shorter and finer varieties of wool. The " worsteds" of twenty- five years ago but seldom weighed more than 4 ounces to the square yard; worsted cloths of the present time not infrequently weigh 24 ounces to the square yard. The former worsteds were for the handicraft of the dressmaker; the latter for the tailor. The "worsted stuffs," or the "stuffs" known as worsteds twenty years ago, were as unlike the cloths of to-day as they are unlike Brussels carpet. Carpets may be, and sometimes are, made from the "combed" coarse long-staple wools; yet who would contend that because of this "combing" process carpets should be admitted to classification as worsteds under paragraph 363. It can scarcely be contended that the simple process of "combing" a material should give the product into which it is made a distinctive character or "commercial designation" irrespective of the nature of that material. If the opposite of this be so, then that manufacture made from " combed" cotton should be classified as a worsted. To so classify it, however, would be absurd ; and hence we may say that it is not the process or method of treat- ment of the raw material, nor yet the material itself that is the subject of the law, but it is the class of goods known to the commerce of the country at the time the law is approved. If the "worsted stuffs" known to the commerce of the country in 1867 were not the manufactures intended to be covered by the language of the act, then there was no substantive, actual entity that could have been intended. The worsted cloths of this day were not known. There is no part of the material from which worsted cloths are manufactured at any time during their process of manu- facture known by the name of "worsteds." There was no article known to either manufacturers or commerce as worsteds, save that merchandise known as "worsted stuffs." It might be said that carpet can not be classified as worsted, because it is other- wise provided for in the act. It is provided for as carpet. Is not this true of the manufacture we are considering? Is it not classified as woolen cloth, or as a manu- facture of wool? If the worsted cloths involved in this appeal are not entitled, because of their identity with the worsteds, or manufactures of worsteds, of 1867, to be so classified, then they are not enumerated in paragraph 363. It is only those worsteds known to commerce and manufacturers of that period as worsteds that are entitled to that designation; and these particular cloths must be of that kind so known at that time to have the benefits of paragraph 363. They must be included under the designation of manufactures of worsted or else they are not named at all in that paragraph. And if they are cloths, and if they are made from wool, then they are entitled to the designation of woolen cloths, or of manufactures of wool provided for in the preceding paragraph. They certainly much more resemble woolen cloths than they do the worsteds of the period of the statute. In material ; in meth- ods of manufacture; in appearance; in weight; in value; in use, they are identical with woolen cloths. Compared with the worsted stuffs of 1867, we find that they are dissimilar in material; in their value; in their use; and have nothing in com- mon, excepting the one process of "combing." There are at least twenty distinct processes applied to wool from the time it leaves the back of a sheep up to the time it becomes a finished cloth. Nineteen of these processes are common to worsted cloths and to woolen. But suppose that the cloths in the controversy are not woolen cloths, are not named in paragraph 362, nor yet in 363, then the classification of the col- lector would be correct, because, being unenumerated, he would be required to clas- sify them and impose the duty borne by the article they most nearly resemble, which would be woolen cloths. These cloths being so nearly identical with woolen cloths, the language of the statute would indicate the intention of the Congress to have them so classified for the purposes of duties. Woolen yarn and worsted yarn pay the same rate. Ready- made clothing, whether of worsted or wool, pays the sarne rate, as do cloaks, dol- mans, and other articles enumerated in paragraph 367. Clothing wools and " comb- ing" wools are also placed upon an equality. In the grouping of articles in the paragraphs of the act of 1883 Congress has in general observed a rule of equality. It is equals that we find grouped together. Paragraph 362, we find, provides for woolen cloths, woolen shawls, and manufactures made wholly or in part of wool. This enumeration, in connection with the rates provided for, shows the intention to adhere to a general class, for in the manufac- WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 187 tures that may be in part of wool the rate of duty clearly indicates that the com- ponent part of the material would be of approximate value to the wool. The same grouping of equals is found in paragraph 363, "flannels, blankets, hats of woo], balmorals, knit goods, woolen and worsted yarn, manufactures composed in whole or in part of worsted, the hair of the alpaca, goat, or other animals. " Here, again, we find articles of the same general character of value grouped together, but oi' less value, or inferior grade to those of the preceding paragraph. This habit of classifying articles having relation to each other in their general phases of character, quality, value, and similtude runs throughout the law. Not without interruption or with entire uniformity, it is true, but so generally and with such marked uni- formity as to show a purpose of intention or design on the part of the Congress. Paragraph 362 groups together the most valuable manufactures of wool, the fol- lowing paragraph those of less value or importance. Does not this uniformity of expressed design sustain the belief that Congress did not intend by the language " all manufactures of worsted" to include among the inferior articles of paragraph 363 cloths made wholly of wool, of the highest value, perfect quality, and elaborate finish 1 Mr. Blackstone, among other rules of interpretation, says : "A statute which treats of persons and things of an inferior rank can not, by any general words, be extended to those of a superior." If this rule should be applied to the interpretation of paragraph 363 we would have authority for saying that superior high-ranking woolen cloths, involved in this appeal, should not be included among the flannels, balmorals, knit goods, etc., spe- cially enumerated in the paragraph, and in so saying would but declare that mere "general words do not extend a statute treating of inferior things to a superior." In interpreting the statute the objects to be attained by the statute are always to be considered as a most important aid in arriving at the will of the legislature. While the primary object of the act of March 3, 1883, was to secure revenue for the use of the Government, another object, scarcely less important, was to protect the manufacturing interests of the country; to secure its industrial independence, and to furnish an abundant labor market for its people. Having this in mind, it is scarcely conceivable that it was the purpose of Congress, by the use of the word "worsted" in paragraph 363, to admit valuable material for clothing at such rates of duty as would destroy the woolen manufactures of the country and thwart the purposes of a protective system of duties. Prior to 1883, the importations of worsteds were of comparatively insignificant value; but under the interpretation given to paragraph 363, and the improvident admission of heavy cloths, classified as manu- factures of worsted, their importation has grown to an enormous extent, resulting in the closing of many of our mills, and bankruptcy of many of our manufacturers, and the enforced idleness of very many of our operatives; results that could not have been within the contemplation of Congress in the enactment of the law. To say that Congress intended the classification that is contended for by the appellants, is to say that the woolen-cloth industries of this country were not in the minds of our legislators when they framed the protective features of the act of 1883. It is esti- mated that Si pounds of unwashed wool are necessary for the manufacture of 1 pound of cloth. In fixing the rate of duty, Congress undoubtedly intended, by the specific duty on cloths, to compensate the manufacturer for the duty he had to pay upon his wool, yet under the construction that is contended for by the appellants, the home manufacturer of woolen cloths is thus protected, and secures an equivalent in pro- tection for the duty he must pay upon the wool he consumes, while the manufacturer of the so-called worsted cloths receives no such equivalent of protection. Yet, while the domestic manufacturer of worsted is subjected to ruinous competition, the domestic manufacturer of woolen cloths is doomed to bankruptcy, because the imported "worsted " serves allot' the purposes of a woolen cloth, and because admitted at a less rate of duty takes its place in the market. It is scarcely possible that this inequality was intended by the Congress. It is a rule of construction that the parts of the statute shall be construed, if pos- sible, as that the whole of it may be given a reasonable operation. This canon of interpretation demands that the woolen cloths and the alleged worsted cloths shall be placed upon an equality in the amount of duties levied upon each. If clothing wool and "combing " wool are treated as equals by the statute, if the same is true of woolen yarn and worsted yarn, and of ready-made clothing, and ol cloaks, dolmans, etc., made from both materials, if all of these are placed upon an equality in the amount of duty each must pay, what reason could have existed in the minds of legislators for the gross inequality that it is insisted by appellants should be shown to woolen cloths and to these alleged worsted cloths. I fully agree with the customs officers of the port of New York in their action from which this appeal has been taken. Very respectfully, W. P. Hepburn, Solicitor, The Hon. Secretary of the Treasury. 188 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. ACT MAT 9, 1890, PKOVIDIN G FOE THE CLASSIFICATION OF WORSTED CLOTHS AS WOOLENS. Be it enacted oy the Senate and House o f Representatives of the United States of America in Congress assembled, That the Secretary of the Treasury be, and he hereby is, authorized and directed to classify as woolen cloths, all imports of worsted cioth, whether known under the name of worsted cloth or under the names of worsteds or diagonals, or otherwise. - November 17, 1890. Mr. Justice Gray, after stating the case as above, delivered the opinion of the Court. The act of March 3, 1883, chapter 121, under " Schedule K, Wool and Woolens " (22 Stat., 508, 509), imposes duties as follows: " Woolen cloths, woolen shawls, and all manufactures of wool of every descrip- tion, made wholly or in part of wool, not specially enumerated or provided for in this act, valued at not exceeding eighty cents per pound, thirty-five cents per pound and thirty-five per centum ad valorem; valued at above eighty cents per pound, thirty-five cents per pound, and in addition thereto forty per centum ad valorem. (i 1 Flannels, blankets, hats of wool, knit goods, and all goods made on knitting- frames, balmorals, woolen and worsted yarns, and all manufactures of every descrip- tion, composed wholly or in part of worsted, the hair of the alpaca, goat, or other animals (except such as are composed in part of wool), not specially enumerated or provided for in this act, valued at not exceeding thirty cents per pound, ten cents per pound; valued at above thirty cents per pound, and not exceeding forty cents per pound, twelve cents per pound; valued at above forty cents per pound, and not exceeding sixty cents per pound, eighteen cents per pound ; valued at above sixty cents per pound, and not exceeding eighty cents per pound, twenty-four cents per pound; and in addition thereto, upon all the above-named articles, thirty-five per centum ad valorem ; valued at above eighty cents per pound, thirty-five cents per pound, and in addition thereto forty per centum ad valorem." In the interpretation of the customs acts, nothing is better settled than that words are to receive their commercial meaning; and that when goods of a particular kind, which would otherwise be comprehended in a class, are subjected to a distinct rate of duty from that imposed upon the class generally, they are taken out of that class for the purpose of the assessment of duties. Of the two successive paragraphs in the customs acts of 1883, upon which the parties respectively rely, the first imposes a certain scale of duties on u all manu- factures of wool of every description, made wholly or in part of wool, not specially enumerated or provided for in this act; " and the second imposes a lower scale of duties on " all manufactures of every description, composed wholly or in part of worsted." It is hardly necessary to observe that the subsequent words inclosed in a parenthesis (" except such as are composed in part of wool") evidently qualify only the intervening clause "the hair of the alpaca, goat, or other animals," and have no bearing upon this case. Though worsted is doubtless a product of wool, and might in some aspects be con- sidered a manufacture of wool, yet manufactures of worsted being subjected by the second paragraph to different duties from those imposed by the first paragraph on manufactures of wool, it necessarily follows that a manufacture of worsted can not be considered as a manufacture of wool, within the meaning of this statute. That shoddy, though a product, and in some sense a manufacture of wool, is not to be considered as itself wool, or a manufacture of wool within the meaning of the statute, is clearly shown by the paragraph next preceding the two above quoted, which makes the duty on "woolen rags, shoddy, nmngo, waste, and flocks, 10 cents per pound." (Lennig v. Maxwell, 3 Blatchford, 125.) It being distinctly found, as a matter of fact, that the goods in question are called or known in the trade as " worsteds," and are composed mainly of worsted, but mixed with a small proportion of shoddy and cotton, the circuit court rightly held that they were subject to duty as manufactures of worsted, and not as manufactures of wool. The cases of Elliott v. Swartout (10 Pet., 137), and Riggs v. Frick (Taney, 100), are directly in point, and our conclusion is supported by many decisions of this court in analogous cases (Homer v. The collector, 1 Wall., 486; Reiche v. Smythe, 13 Wall., 162 ; Movius v. Arthur, 95 U. S., 144 ; Arthur v. Morrison, 96 U. S., 108 ; Arthur?;. Lahey, 96 U. S.;il2 ; Arthur v. Stephanii, 96 U. S., 125 ; Arthur v. Davies, 96 U. S., 135 ; Arthur v. Rheims, 96 U. S., 143; Swan v. Arthur, 103 U. S., 597; Victor v. Arthur, 104 U. S., 498. Judgment afiirmed. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 189 Treasury Department, May 27, 1889. Wool — certain baskets — and not as toys. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 3d instant, submitting the appeal (6385v) of Messrs. C. Goebert & Son from your assessment of duty at the rate of 35 per cent ad valorem, on certain baskets imported by them per Switzerland, March 8, 1889, and claimed to be dutiable at the rate of 30 per cent ad valorem, under the provision for " baskets," in T. I., 395. The appraiser reports that the articles are small baskets manufactured of differ- ent materials, such as willow, metal, and wool, which were returned for duty as •" toys," uuder T. I., 425, but that on further consideration he is inclined to believe that they are not intended for the amusement of children, and is of opinion that as wool forms a conspicuous and important feature in their manufacture they would be properly classified as " manufactures in part of wool under T. I., 362." The provision of law contained in T. I., 395, imposes a duty of 30 per cent ad valo- rem, on " baskets and all other articles composed of grass, 'osier, palm leaf, whale- bone, or willow, or straw," and as the baskets in question, which" are apparently intended to be used for holding confectionery and not as toys, are not composed of any of the materials specified except that they contain a small quantity of willow, the Department is of opinion that they are properly dutiable as manufactures in part of wool as suggested by the appraiser. You are, therefore, requested to reiiquidate the entry accordingly. (0403.) Treasury Department, June 7, 1889. Waste, woolen or worsted, broken laps. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 9th ultimo, reporting on the appeal (5623v) of the Providence Worsted Mills from your decision assessing duty at the rate of 60 cents per pound on certain so-called " worsted waste," imported into your port per steamer Nevada, on the 2d of March last, which the appellants claim to be dutiable at the rate of 10 cents per pound. It appears that the merchandise covered by the said appeal is the same as that which was the subject of appeal (4755v) of Messrs. R. F. Downing & Co., which was forwarded by you to the Department on the 13th of April last, the last-named parties being the consignees at your port who made the entry of the merchandise. The claim of the appellants in this case is that the merchandise should be classi- fied as " woolen waste," under the provision in Schedule K (T. I., 361) for " waste." The special report of the U. S. appraiser at your port, and an inspection of samples, however, show that the merchandise is not " woolen" or "worsted waste," within the decision of the court in the ease referred to in Synopsis 8731, inasmuch as it consists almost entirely of broken laps, which, although similar in character to broken tops, is one step farther advanced in the manufacture of yarn, and contains a slight admixture of rovings. Upon submitting the samples to the U. S. appraiser at Philadelphia, that officer reports that the merchandise is of the same description as the article which is returned at that port as scoured wool, in other than ordinary condition, etc. ; that it is not a legitimate waste; and that in the judgment of the best experts to whom the samples were shown it- is not known commercially as " wool waste," or bought and sold as such; that it does not contain any thread or ring wasie, and that it can be returned to the cards in its present condition without undergoing any process of manufacture, and is more valuable than the scoured wool of the same class, as the noils, burrs, etc., have been extracted, leaving only what might be termed "the cream of the wool." Under these circumstances the Department holds, in accordance with the principle enunciated in its ruling of March 22 last (Synopsis 9303), that the claim of the appellants must be rejected. 190 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Your decision in assessing duty thereon at the rate of 60 cents per pound, as scoured wool of class one, imported in other than ordinary condition, is hereby affirmed. (0422.) Treasury Department, June 27 ', 1889. Samfles of carpets. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 4th instant, submitting the appeal (8600v) of Messrs. W. & J. Sloane from your assess- ment of duty on certain samples of carpets imported by them per The Queen, March 29, 1889, and claimed to be samples of no commercial value. The appellants state that the samples are pieces of carpet about 1J yards in length, which are cut from the whole piece while in the loom and are sent in advance of the regular goods for the sole purpose of securing orders, and that they are only of sufficient dimensions to display the style and pattern, and are, in most cases, accompanied by a border to match. The appraiser reports that the samples have a commercial value and are fit for use as mats or rugs, and that they were classified for duty as Axminster carpeting under the provisions therefor in T. I., 369, and in accordance with the Department's decision of February 1, 1876 (Synopsis 2640). In view of this report and of the provision in T. I., 378, that "mats, rugs, * * * + bedsides, and other portions of carpets or carpeting shall be subjected to the rate of duty * * * imposed on carpets or carpeting of like character or description," the Department is of opinion that such pieces of carpet were properly dutiable, and your assessment of duty thereon is hereby affirmed. The appraiser at Philadelphia, in reporting on said appeal under date of the 22d instant, states that samples of carpets imported at that port are usually stabbed or cut to destroy their commercial value, and the Department is of opinion that when so stabbed or cut they may be properly regarded as having no commercial value and admitted free as samples. (0402.) Treasury Department, July 24, 1889. Garneted wool waste and carbonated wool waste.— The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 7th ultimo, transmitting the appeal (9110v) of Messrs. J. Wild & Co. from your decision assessing duty at the rate of 30 cents per pound on certain so-called garneted wool waste imported into your port per Ohio on the 4th of March last, which the appellants claim to be dutiable at the rate of 10 cents per pound, under the provision in schedule K (T. I., 361), for " woolen * * * waste." It ajjpears from the special report of the U. S. appraiser and an inspection of samples that the merchandise in question consists of so-called woolen waste which has been garneted, or put through some process by which it is practically restored to the condition of unmanufactured scoured wool of the first class. The question as to the classification of merchandise of this character was decided by the Department on the 26th of October, 1887 (Synopsis 8499), and it was then, as it was on the 13th of July, 1887 (Synopsis 8340), held that woolen waste which may have been broken up and put through the garneting machine, whereby it becomes practically scoured wool, was dutiable at the rate prescribed for scoured wool — that is to say, when of the first class and costing under 30 cents per pound in the unwashed condition, at a duty of 30 cents per pound, as assessed by you. Under these circumstances your decision is affirmed. Samptes of the so-called garneted wool waste were submitted to the conference of U. S. appraisers which was recently in session at your port, with the request that they examine the same and submit their views as to the proper classification for duty of such substance under the existing tarilf acts, and the Department is WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 191 now in receipt of a report from the said conference, dated the 11th instant. In this report it appears that the appraising officers are of opinion that some of the samples submitted to the conference hear no evidence whatever of having been gar- neted, the same being probably wool which was carded only, and which is in a scoured condition, equal in almost every respect to the ordinary scoured wool, and fit for the same use to which the latter is generally applied. The appraising officers also consided the general question as to the proper classi- fication of so-called garneted, carbonated, and other similar wool wastes, and report that, in their opinion, any process of manufacture whereby the value and character of a refuse article, such as waste of wool as in the cases mentioned, have been changed or enhanced and its identity as a waste or worthless substance destroyed, so that it becomes in fact scoured wool, it no longer belongs to the category of waste, but should be classified as scoured wool, which it actually is. It is further stated that " the so-called carbonated and garneted wastes have undergone a very decided process of manufacture ; their value has been increased to within a trifle of the value of wool itself; their appearance is made so closely to resemble the actual article as to deceive even experts, and by an admixture of the manufactured article with the natural wool^their purposes of use are identically the same," and should, they think, be classified for duty at the same rate as the wool from whence they came, and made so closely to resemble. These views accord with the rulings of the Department above mentioned, and seem to be correct and proper. (950§.) Treasury Department, July 24, 1889. Flannels. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 21st ultimo, report- ing further on the appeal (8759v) of Messrs. G. W. Sheldon & Co. ftom your assess- ment of duty, at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem, on cer- tain " woolen cloth in the gray," imported by them per England, May 6, 1889, and claimed to be dutiable at the rate of 18 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem, under the provisions for " flannels" in T. I., 363. The appraiser reports that the goods consist of a woolen cloth unfinished and un- dyed, which is commercially known as a woolen cloth in the gray, and can be used as ladies' cloth and as coffin-cloth, and he submits certificates from four of the lead- ing importers of woolen cloths in support of such commercial designation. The appraiser at Philadelphia, to whom the papers and samples were submitted, reports that such cloths in a finished condition are imported at that port and used for carriage cloths and for ladies 7 coating and suitings, and states that, in his opin- ion, they come clearly within the provision for " woolen cloths" in T. I., 362. The Department is of opinion that the cloths in question were properly classified under said provision, and your assessment of duty thereon is hereby affirmed. (9512.) Treasury Department, August 1, 1889. Machine lappings.— The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 17th ultimo, submitting the appeal (2091w) of Messrs. J. C. Bloomfield & Co. from your assessment of duty, at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem, on certain machine lappings imported by them per Arizona, May 13, 1889. The appellants claim that the merchandise in question is a manufacture of worsted and flax, and entitled to entry at the rate of 12 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem, under the provision in T. I., 363, for all manufactures of every description composed wholly or in part of worsted. The appraiser reports that upon a chemical analysis of the article, which is com- 192 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. mercially known as "lapping/' and is used for covering cylinders upon which calico is printed, it was found to be composed of a ivool filling and a flax warp. The claim of the appellants is, therefore rejected and your assessment of duty thereon under the provision in T. I., 363, for "all manufactures of wool of every de- scription made wholly or in part of wool/' is hereby affirmed. (9548.) Treasury Department, September 26, 1889. Dutch carpets. — The Department is in receipt of a letter dated the 20th instant from W. & J. Sloane, complaining of a recent change at your port in the classifica- tion of certain so-called wool Dutch carpet, which they state has for years been admitted at the rate of 40 per cent ad valorem under the provisions in T. I., 378, for carpets and carpeting of wool, but which is now classified as " worsted-chain Vene- tian" carpet, at the rate of 12 cents per square yard and 30 per cent ad valorem under T. I., 374. The matter of the classification of these carpets has been the subject of consider- able correspondence with customs officers at your port, Boston, and Philadelphia, and was finally submitted to the conference of appraisers held at your port in July last, with the result that the conference, after a careful consideration and microscopic examination by competent experts, reported that so-called Dutch carpets are the worsted-chain Venetian carpets provided for in paragraph 374, T. I., new, and are properly dutiable thereunder. This is the classification which it is understood has been followed at Philadelphia for some time on the importation of these carpets, and, as appears from the com- plaint above mentioned, has now been adopted at your port. The Department sees no good reason for interfering with the same, and you will please advise the complainants, who have been referred to you, in the matter accord- ingly. (9632.) Treasury Department, October 14, 1889. Wool knit gloves. — The Department is in. receipt of your letter of August 28 last, submitting the appeal (5695 w) of Messrs. Marshall, Field & Co. from your assessment of duty, at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem, on certain gloves imported by them (entry No. 5295) July 15, 1889, and claimed to be duti- able at the rate of 40 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem, as " wool wearing apparel " under T. I., 366, on the ground that they are men's gloves made of plain woolen cloth, cut and sewn, and are not knit goods. The appraiser reports that the gloves in question were made on a knitting-frame, and were therefore dutiable at the assessed rate under the provision for wool knit goods in T. L, 363. An inspection of the sample shows that the gloves are made of knit woolen cloth, being cutout of this material and sewn; and the appraiser at New York, to whom the samples were submitted, reports that they are commercially known as wool knit gloves, and are so classified at that port. Your assessment of duty thereon is hereby affirmed. (9657*) Treasury Department, November 1, 1889. Dress goods — wool and cotton. — The Department duly received your letter of September 4 last, submitting the appeal (6283 w) of Messrs. Kahn Bros., Brine & Co. from your assessment of duty, at the rate of 9 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem, on certain dress goods imported by them via New York, July 22, 1889. The samples have been submitted to the appraiser at New York, who reports that WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 193 upon chemical analysis they are found to be composed of wool and cotton, and to be properly dutiable at the rate of 7 cents per square yard and 40 per cent ad valorem, under T. I., 365, as claimed by the appellants. H-e also states that the cotton threads are discernible by the naked eye and form a part of the pattern of the goods, so that it is evident that cotton was not introduced for the purpose of degrading the fabric so as to escape the proper rate of duty, as was the case with the merchandise covered by decision, Synopsis 8624. You are, therefore, authorized to readjust the entry and to take measures for refunding the excess of duty. (9678.) Tjreasury Department, November 4, 1889. Masks. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 28th ultimo, submitting the appeal (539 x) of Messrs. E. A. Prior & Co. from your assessment of duty, at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem, on certain masks, imported by them per America, September 6, 1889, and classified for duty under T. I., 362, as "manufactures * * * made wholly or in part of wool. " The appellants claim that the masks in question are made of paper and cotton flannel, not wool, and that they are dutiable at the rate of 15 per cent ad valorem, under T. I., 388, as " manufactures of paper." The appraiser reports that the articles consist of paper masks with cotton-flannel cowls and flowing beards of wool, and that a similar mask was submitted by him to the Board of Appraisers at the conference in July, 1889, and thereby held to be dutiable as manufactures in part of wool under the Department's decision, Synopsis 7566. An inspection of the sample submitted shows that the masks have eyebrows, mustaches, and a long beard of wool, and the Department decides that they were properly classified. Your assessment of duty thereon is hereby affirmed. * * * (9687.) Treasury Department, November 6, 1889. Wool, hats of — miners'. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 1st instant, further reporting on the appeal (4736 w) of Messrs. L. Toplitz & Co. from your decision assessing duty, at the rate of 10 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem, on certain miners' hats, imported per Brooklyn City and Llandoff City, in July and August last, which the appellants claim to be dutiable at the rate of 30 per cent ad valorem, under the provision in Schedule N, T. L, 400, for " bonnets, hats, and hoods for men, women, and children," etc. It appears that the merchandise was classified by you under the provision in Schedule K, T. I., 363, for "hats of wool," the U. S. appraiser having reported the hats to be composed of a manufacture of wool stiffened by a solution of boiled resin, and inasmuch as they were valued at less than 30 cents per pound they were sub- jected to a duty of 10 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem, under the pro- vision in Schedule K, T. I., 363, as aforesaid. Upon reference to Department's ruling of January 5, 1881 (Synopsis 4735), it would seem that the hats which were then the subject of consideration differed from those in question, inasmuch as they were manufactured of felt, resin, etc., and which did not come within the category of "hats of wool." With a view to ascertain the proper classification of the hats in question, the con- ference of U. S. appraisers, recently in session at New York, were requested to exam- ine into the matter and report under what provision of the tariff act, in the opinion of the conference, the said hats properly came, and the Department is in receipt of a communication, dated the 22d ultimo, from said conference, from which it H. Mis. 94 13 194 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. appears that a sample of the hats was submitted to the United States laboratory for analysis, and that the report of the laboratory was that it was a hat of wool saturated with resin. Under these circumstances the Department decides that the appeal is not well taken, and that the hats in question are liable to duty at the rate assessed by you under such special provision of the tariff in Schedule K for " hats of wool." Your decision is therefore affirmed. (9691.) Treasury Department, November 6, 1889. Silk and wool cloakings. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 22d ultimo, transmitting the appeal (9948 w) of Messrs. Megroz, Portier, Grose & Co., from your assessment of duty, at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem, on certain silk and wool goods, imported by them per Labrador, Sep- tember 3, 1885, and claimed to be dutiable at the rate of 7 cents per square yard and 40 per cent ad valorem as dress goods, under T. I., 365. The appraiser reports that the goods in question are silk and wool cloakings, and that they are not commercially known or sold as dress goods. The Department is therefore of opinion that the goods were properly classified as manufactures in part of wool under the provision therefor in T. I., 362, and its decision of February 24, 1886 (Synopsis 7377), and your assessment of duty thereon is hereby affirmed. (9699.) Treasury Department, November 6, 1889. Spun silk. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 1st instant, report- ing further on the appeal (6691 w) of Mr. F. A. Straus from your assessment ofduty, at the rate of 35 cents per, pound and 40 per cent ad valorem, on certain "spun silk" imported by. him per Servia August 6, 1889, and claimed to be dutiable at the rate of 30 per cent ad valorem, under the provision for "spun silk" in T. I., 381. The appraiser, it appears, returned the goods in question, which are invoiced as "silk and merino," as "worsted yarn over 80 cents," and reports that on micro- scopic analysis they were found to consist approximately of : Silk, 61*05 per cent; wool, 30*60 per cent; ramie, 5*39 per cent; cotton, 3-06. This analysis shows that they are not "silk twist," and the claim of the appel- lant is therefore rejected. I would state, however, that, in the opinion of the Department, the goods are not " worsted yarn," but are dutiable at the rate assessed as "manufactures * * * composed * * * in part of worsted," under the provision therefor in T. I., 363, it being understood that the duty in such case is higher than that for manufactures of silk. (9694.) Treasury Department, November 20, 1889. Buggy-aprons. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 28th ultimo, transmitting the appeal (448 x) of the Michigan Buggy Company from your assess- ment of duty, at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem, under T. I., 362, on certain " buggy-aprons," imported by the appellants per Etruria, and claimed by the appellants to be dutiable, under T. I., 378, as rugs not otherwise provided for. It appears that the merchandise in question consists of aprons composed of wool, cotton, and India rubber; that they are used in front of buggies to protect the occu- pants in stormy weather from rain, snow, or mud ; and that they are not similar to the articles covered by Department's decision of March 2, 1888 (Synopsis 8702), and do not fall within the definition of rugs therein given. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 195 The U. S. appraiser at tlie port of New York reports that such articles are classified by him under T. I., 362, as manufactures in part of wool, not specially enumerated or provided for, which is the classification made in the present case. The articles in question not being rugs, the claim of the appellant is hereby rejected, and your assessment of duty is affirmed. (9121.) Treasury Department, December 4 3 1889. Flannels.— The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 6th ultimo, trans- mitting the appeal (943 x) of Messrs. K. Mandell & Co., from your assessment of duty, at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem, on certain flan- nels, imported by them per Teutonic, August 15, 1889j and returned by the appraiser on the invoice as " manufactures of wool." The appellants claim that the goods in question are in fact flannels, and are known as such in the trade, and that they should be classified as such under T. L, 363, and dutiable at the rate of 24 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem. The appraiser at Philadelphia, to whom the sample of goods has been submitted, reports that they are known commercially as flannels; that they are made of a cot- ton and wool warp, with a woolen filling, and that while this class of goods has not been received at that port, it would, if entered, be returned under T. I., 363, as claimed by the importers. Inasmuch as the goods in question strongly resemble flannels, and assimilate thereto in material, quality, and texture, the Department is of the opinion that the claim of the appellants is well founded, and you are hereby authorized to reliquidate the entry accordingly, and take the necessary steps for refunding the duties exacted in excess. (9757.) Treasury Department, January 15, 1890. "White Chevrette" or Angora goat hair. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 8th of November last, further reporting on the appeal (6510 w) of Mr. Henry Schmidt from your decision assessing duty, at the rate of 10 cents per pound, on certain goat hair, imported into your port per Utopia, August 14, 1889, which the appellant claims to be exempt from duty under the provision in the free list, T. I., 717, for "hair of all kinds, cleaned or uncleaned, drawn or undrawn, but unmanufactured, not specially enumerated or provided for in this act." It appears from the special reports of the appraiser, transmitted by you, that the hair in question was returned by him under the provision in Schedule K (T. L, 354), because it consisted of hair taken from A.ngora goat skins, and although commer- cially known as " white chevrette," which is ordinarily obtained from skins of the Angora kid by a liming process after the animals are killed, and is of the poorer class of Angora goat hair, it is liable to duty under such provision, which specifies u all hair of the alpaca, goat, and other like animals." That the article is hair of the Angora goat is also proven by certificates from numerous dealers in wool, hair, etc., at your port. The fact that the article is Angora goat hair removes it from the category of the hair specified in the "free list," because (1) it is therein prescribed that to exempt hair from duty it must be otherwise unenumerated, and (2) Angora goat skins with the wool on are specially excluded from exemption of duty (T. I., 719). Angora goat hair is well recognized as belonging to class 2, wools, and as it is clearly covered by the said provision in Schedule K (T. I., 354) the Department decides, regardless of the use to which it may be applied, that it is dutiable at the rate of 10 cents per pound, as assessed by you. Your decision is affirmed. (9810») 196 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Treasury Department, January 22, 1890. j Adrianople wool. — The Department duly received your letter of October 7 last, further relating to the appeals (2966 w) of Messrs. John and James Dobson, per Vicenzo Galatola, May 2, 1889, and (3916 w) of Mr. H. Schmidt,. per Adriatic, June I, 1889, from your decision assessing duty, at the rate of 10 cents per pound, on certain unwashed Adrianople wool, imported by the said vessels, respectively, which the appellants claim to be wool of class 3, and to be dutiable at the rate of 2| cents per pound, under the provision in Schedule K, T. I., 359, being valued at less than 12 cents per pound. The appellants claim that wool of this character — that is, wool from Adrianople — has been imported by themselves and others for many years, and, until the present instance, passed at the ports of New York and Philadelphia as third-class wool; that it was reported in the year 1872 by Mr. George William Bond, who had been charged by the Department with the preparation of the standard wool samples, as class-three wool; that it is of the same general quality and character as at that time, and is expressly covered by the provision in paragraph 355, T. I., for " native Smyrna, and including all such avooIs of like character as have been heretofore imported into the United States from Turkey * * *." It is learned from authoritative sources that the original sheep of Roumelia and adjoining. provinces were of the Zackel and fat or broadtail races; but long before 1867 these had been crossed upon to a very considerable extent by Merinos or other racss of sheep clearly of the first class. There remain there, however, sheep which yield only wool of the third class. In 1870 Mr. George William Bond obtained samples of Adrianople or Rournelia wool of class 1, also one sample of class 3; the former, however, were lost by shipwreck, and the latter was destroyed by fire at Boston, consequently the cabinet of standard samples prepared for the Department by Mr. Bond in 1872 did not include a sample of such wool, and the sample (No. 33) of class 1 in the present cabinet of standard samples, which were reported upon by the commission appointed h# the Secretary of Treasury in 1884, is the only sample of Adrianople wool that has ever been adopted by the Department as a standard. Reports of recent dates from the collectors at Boston and Philadelphia indicate that previous to the adoption of the present cabinet of standard samples, in October, 1884, it was the practice at those ports to classify Adrianople wools as of class 3, but that since that date such wools have been uniformly classified for duty as of class 1. From your report, dated the 20th instant, it appears that during the time that Mr. John A. Bausch served as assistant appraiser at your port (from 1867 to January, 1883) Adrianople wool was returned for duty as of class 1; that between the latter date and March, 1889, certain importations of such wools were passed as of class 3, but since the latter date all importations of Adrianople wool proper have been classified as wools of class 2. The special reports of the appraiser at your port are to the effect that the impor- tations in question comprised four different grades or qualities of wool, mostly from sheep raised in Turkey, near Adrianople, .and having been taken from the skin in the grease is termed " Kassop bachi," or butchers' wool; that grades 1 and 2 being from sheep of Merino breed, and corresponding in character to sample No. 33 in the cabinet of standard samples, were returned for duty as wool of class 1, but as the other grades "showed marked indications of being carpet wool," they were returned for duty as of class 3. The fact that Adrianople wools were admitted at the ports of New York, Boston, and Philadelphia as of class 3, during different periods, as above mentioned, does not establish their right to such admission then nor since. On the contrary, it would appear that a portion thereof at least was so admitted in direct contravention of the provision in the tariff acts of 1867 and 1883, respectively, for "wools of Merino blood, immediate or remote." WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 197 It is satisfactorily ascertained that tlie wools from Turkey, which are known as Adrianople wools, come in part from sheep of improved or distinctly Merino blood, and in part from the native or third-class races. Although these wools may he sep- arately sold and haled for shipment at Adrianople, it is understood that they are largely purchased by dealers in Smyrna for the purpose of mixing andrebaling with their native wools for shipment as such to this country. In this view the Department is unable to decide definitely to which particulai dutiable class Adrianople wools generally, or wools imported from Smyrna, belong. The question must be determined in each instance under the long-established ruling of the Department (Synopsis 361), according to race or blood. When, as in the present cases, such wools correspond to sample No. 33 in the Department cabinet of standard samples, or show definitely the peculiar character- istics of wools of class 1, they should be subjected to duty under paragraph 357, T. I., new; otherwise, and when exhibiting only indefinite or imperfect traits of wools from Merino, or the other improved breeds, they should be classified as wools of class 3. Your decision, with respect to the particular importations in question, is hereby affirmed. This decision will also apply to appeal (7897w) of Mr. H. Schmidt, covering an importation per Servia, April 15, 1889, so much of the appeal as applies to the entry per Bothnia, April 15, 1889, being rejected, as it appears that protest was not filed within the statutory time. (981 7.) Treasury Department, January 27, 1890. Sailor hats. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 13th instant, submitting the appeal (6554a;) of Messrs. Balch, Price & Co. from your assessment of duty, at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem, on certain hats imported by them per Germanic, November 16, 1889, and claimed to be dutiable at the rate of 30 per cent ad valorem, under the provision in T. I., 400, for " Bon- nets, hats, and hoods for men, women, and children. 77 The appraiser reports that the hats in question are known as sailor hats, now much worn by young ladies, and are manufactured of wool, felted, and covered with a black varnish. Under the Department's decision of November 6, 1889 (Synopsis 9691) as to cer- tain miner's hats, the hats in question were properly subject to duty at the rate assessed under the provision for i( hats of wool, 77 in T. I., 363. Your assessment of duty thereon is hereby affirmed. (9§25.) Treasury Department, February 4, 1890. Linen lace tidies. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 8th ultimo, submitting the appeal (5841x) of Messrs. Marshall Field & Co. from your assess- ment of duty, at the rates of 50 per cent ad valorem and 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem, on certain tidies imported by them at your port, entry No. 9697, December 2, 1889. The appellants claim that the tidies in question are dutiable at the rate of 30 per cent ad valorem as " linen lace," under T. I., 337, or at the rate of 35 per cent ad valorem as " manufactures of flax," under T. I., 334. The tidies, it appears, are manufactured of wool, worsted, jute thread, tinsel, and silk, and the collector of customs at New York reports, under date of the 30th ultimo, that such goods are classified for duty at that port at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem under T. I., 362. The tidies, being composed in part of wool, are properly dutiable as manufactures in part of wool, and you are hereby authorized to readjust the entry accordingly, and to take measures for collecting the balance of duty found to be due. (98360 198 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Treasury Department, February 13, 1890. Worsted laces. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of tlie 4th instant; reporting further on the appeal (2968a?) of Messrs. Eice & Frank from your assess- ment of duty, at the rate of 30 cents per pound and 50 per cent ad valorem, on cer- tain worsted trimmings imported by them per Hammonia, September 29, 1885. The appellants state that the goods consist of ordinary worsted laces, not used or intended for dress trimmings, and claim that they are dutiable at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem as "manufactures of worsted/ 7 under T. I., 363. The appraiser reports that the goods are strips of woolen cloth, embroidered and used for trimming women's dresses and other garments, and are not the laces cov- ered by the Department's decision (Synopsis 6311). In view of this report the Department is of opinion that the goods are properly dutiable at the rate assessed, under the provision inT. I., 368, for "dress trimmings * * * made of wool, worsted," etc. Your assessment of duty thereon is hereby affirmed. (9800.) Treasury Department, February 18, 1890. "Ring waste." — The Department has had under investigation the repeated com- plaints of Mr. Theodore Justice, president of the Philadelphia Wool Merchants' Association, and of other gentlemen, in relation to the classification for duty at Philadelphia and other ports of wool in the form known as "ring waste," and after a very careful examination of the matter decides as follows : " Ring waste," so called, is a genuine product, resulting from what is known as the French system of mule spinning, in general use in England, France, and Ger- many. It is imported in its ordinary condition, and has not been changed for the purpose of evading duty, as inferentially charged; consequently it is, in any view of the case, exempt from the double rate of duty prescribed in paragraph 356, T. I., in certain cases. While this "ring waste" is a product of the processes of spinning wool into yarn, it is not "waste" in the sense of the tariff act. What that act means by the association of "woolen rags, shoddy, mungo waste, and flocks " in a single category was defined by the decision reported in Synopsis No. 5820, (a) as "something of little or no value," and the Department is in posses- sion of no new facts or reasons impeaching the soundness of the principle, except the decision of September 10, 1886, reported in Synopsis 7915. In the latter case, however, it does not appear that the attention of the Depart- ment was drawn to the fundamental consideration that the paragraph of the tariff act associating " woolen rags, shoddy, mungo waste, and flocks" in a single classi- fication exhibits an obvious intent to deal only in that one classification with degen- erate forms of woolen material, of comparative little value, and not with this form of wool, which, though resulting from a particular step in the process of woolen manufacture, is still wool of high quality, advanced to the last stage of purification prior to its manufacture into yarn, and of greater value than many grades of domestic scoured wool. The ground upon which Synopsis 7915 stands is, that "ring waste" "can not be utilized without being broken by machinery, thus destroying the fiber of the wool, and the utility of the article for other purposes than that of waste." This statement is only partially correct, since the fiber, though somewhat depreciated by shorten- ing, is not destroyed, and when spun in combination with longer fibered wool, pro- duces a higher grade of yarn than could possibly be produced from " rags, shoddy, a See note to No. 0884. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 199 niungo waste, and flocks." The Department is unable, therefore, to adhere to that decision as an authority in a case where the same question is again raised. The association of woolen rags, shoddy, mungo waste, and flocks in a single cate- gory is an old provision of tariff legislation, and antedates the time when "ring waste" became known as an article of commerce. It can not therefore be claimed that Congress had it in contemplation when providing for these comparatively val- ueless wool adulterants. For the reasons herein stated, you are advised that so-called u riug waste," when found to be wool of high value, superior quality, and in a purified state, should be subjected to duty as scoured wool of its appropriate class. But when, from any cause, it is really degenerated or waste material of small value compared with scoured wool of the higher grades, it should, according to the rule of similitude, be classed as " waste" under paragraph 361, T. I., new. (9871.) Treasury Department, March 10, 1890. Embroidered woolen dress patterns. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 18th ultimo, submitting the appeal (9367 x) of Messrs. B. & A. Haas from your assessment of duty, at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem, on certain dress patterns, imported by them at your port on the 5th ultimo, and claimed to be dutiable at the rate of 40 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valo- rem, under the provision in T. I., 366, for u wearing apparel of every description * * * composed wholly or in part of wool * * * worsted * * * made up or manufactured wholly or in part by the tailor, seamstress, or manufacturer." The appraiser reports that the articles consist of woolen dress goods, weighing over 4 ounces to the square yard, simply cut in lengths for dresses, overskirts, etc., and not partly manufactured, the embroidery thereon being woven id to the appropriate parts of the goods. An inspection of the sample submitted shows that the articles consist of three pieces of woolen dress goods, one plain and the others embroidered, which together constitute the material for a lady's dress, and are not made up or manufactured in any way, but are simply cut into the necessary lengths. They are of the same character, except as to material, as the cotton robes covered by the Department's decision of August 21, 1886 (Synopsis 7711), and in view of said decision the Department is of opinion that they are properly dutiable at the rate assessed, under the provision for " women's and children's dress goods * * * weighing over 4 ounces per square yard," in T. I., 365. Your assessment of duty thereon is hereby affirmed. (9913.) Treasury Department, April 17, 1890. Mohair tops. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 12th instant, further reporting on the appeal (723 y) of Messrs. P. Goldsmith & Co., from your decision assessing duty, at the rate of 60 cents per pound, on certain mohair noils, 4< out of the ordinary condition," imported into your port via New York, on the 20th of February last, which the appellants claim to be dutiable at the rate of 20 cents per pound, as scoured Angora goat hair. It appears from the report of the United States appraiser at 'your port and an inspection of samples, that the merchandise in question consists of mohair tops made from the hair of the Angora goat, the same being scoured Angora hair, costing under 30 cents per pound in the unwashed condition and being in the form of tops in their ordinary condition. Under these circumstances, the article being scoured wool or hair of the Angora 200 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. goat, imported in other than the ordinary condition, is dutiable under the provisions of Schedule K, T. I., 356 and 358, at the rate of 60 cents per pound. The claim of the appellants that the wool rate of duty is not applicable to this class of merchandise is not well founded, inasmuch as the provisions in said Sched- ule T. I., 356 and 358, include hair of the "goat and other like animals," in class two, "combing wools," so that the double rate of duty applies thereto when imported in other than the ordinary condition. Your decision is therefore hereby affirmed. In this connection it may be stated that this decision is in accordance with the practice prevailing at New York and elsewhere. (9972.) Treasury Department, April 21, 1890. Jipins rugs. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 11th instant, submitting the appeal (1979 y) of Messrs. V. E. Archambault & Son from your assessment of duty, at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem, on certain jipins rugs (so called), imported by them per Ohio, September 18, 1889, and claimed to be dutiable at the rate of 40 per cent ad valorem under the provision for "rugs" in T. L, 378. The appraiser reports that the goods are not rugs, and are not generally used as rugs, but are intended for and used as curtains and draperies for doors and windows, and that they are composed of wool. The claim of the appellants is therefore rejected, and your assessment of duty thereon, under the provision in T. L, 362, for "all manufactures of wool of every description, made wholly or in part of wool," is hereby affirmed. (9980.) Treasury Department, May 26, 1890. Kalmuc plain filling carpet. — Referring to your letter of March 29 last, trans- mitting the appeal (1421 y) of H. Bentell from your assessment of duty, at the rate of 12 cents per square yard and 30 per cent ad valorem, on certain Kalmuc plain filling carpet, imported per Runic, February 6, 1890, and returned as worsted chain Venetian carpeting, dutiable under T. I., 374, I have to state that the Department has carefully considered the subject-matter of said appeal, and obtained a report thereon from the conference of appraisers recently in session at New York, and also individual reports from the appraisers at New York, Boston, and Philadelphia. With one exception, all the said reports concur in the opinion that this carpet dif- fers from the Dutch carpeting (subject of Department's decision of September 26, 1889, Synopsis 9632, on the strength of which duty was assessed in this case) in sev- eral important particulars, and to such an extent that the classification held appli- cable to the Dutch carpeting can not be applied. As deduced from said reports, the distinctions to be observed between the two carpets aforesaid are as follows: First, the warp thread in the " Kalmuc" runs reg- ularly over and under two threads of the filling, thereby bringing to the surface the filling threads equally with the warp, while in the wool Dutch carpet the warp yarn runs over and under a single thread of filling in such a way as to raise the warp above and completely cover the filling, leaving the warp alone on the face of the carpet upon which comes the wear. Second, the warp of the Kalmuc carpeting is woolen while that of the Dutch carpeting is so-called worsted. In view of these facts, and of the further statement in the report of the conference that this Kalmuc carpeting is not commercially known as either the AvoTsted chain Venetian carpeting or a yarn Venetian carpet, the Department must hold that the provisions in T. I., 374, for worste'd chain Venetian carpets is not applicable to "Kal- muc plain filling carpet," but that the latter being a carpet of wool, is dutiable under the specific provisions in T. I., 378, for carpets and carpetings of wool. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 201 You are therefore authorized to reliquidate the entry at the rate provided in the last-named paragraph (40 per cent ad valorem) and to take the necessary steps for refunding the excess of duty exacted thereon. (10038.) Treasury Department, June 19, 1890. "Foule serge" not flannels. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 4th instant, submitting the appeal (4735?/) of Messrs. H. Meyer & Co. from your assessment of duty at the rate of 9 cents per square yard aud 40 per cent ad valorem on certain " foule serge/' imported by them per Dania, March 31, 1890, and claimed to be dutiable at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem as u flan- nels "under T. I., 363. The appraiser reports that the goods are women's and children's woolen and worsted dress goods, which are not manufactured in the same manner as flannels. Your assessment of duty thereon, under the provision in T. I., 365, for women's and children's dress goods, is therefore affirmed. (10076.) Treasury Department, June 20, 1890. Worsted portieres. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 12th instant, reporting on the communication of W. & J. Sloane, dated the 5th idem, relative to the action of the appraiser at your port in returning certain " manufac- tures of combed wool (or worsted) and cotton," and known commercially as "por- tieres" or "hangings," imported by Messrs. Sloane, as dutiable under T. I., 362, by reason of the act of May 9, 1890 (see Synopsis 10020). You state that the entry has not yet been liquidated, and express the opinion that the act cited by the appraiser applies to worsted cloths that assimilate to the woolen cloths referred to in T. I., 362, in quality, texture, and uses, and that said act does not repeal and make void the provisions of T. I., 363, for "worsted" fabrics that are not cloths nor used for the same purposes as the woolen cloths covered by paragraph, T. I., 362. The Department concurs in this view, which accords with the view expressed in its decision of May 27, 1889 (Synopsis 9400), wherein it is stated that the term "cloths" has a technical and restricted signification, and can properly be only applied to the thicker and heavier fabrics of wool, which are so finished and close as to be adapted for use by the tailor or clothier in the manufacture of garments for men and boys. (10078.) Treasury Department, September 22, 1890. Wool on the skin (shearlings). — The Department duly received your letters of the 21st and 26th of June last, in relation to the appeal (5524?/) of Mr. Richard Young from your decision assessing duty at the rate of 10 cents per pound on certain wool on the skin, imported into your port per Canada, on the 29th of April last, which the appellant claimsto be exempt from duty because, as alleged, the skins containing the wool are commercially known as "shearlings," and the wool contained thereon is so short as to be valueless for the purpose for which the skins are imported by him, and also because the cost of removing the wool would more than offset its actual value. After affording the appellant a personal hearing on the question, and a thorough arfd careful investigation of the matter, it has been ascertained that, while perhaps the skins in question may be called " shearlings," the wool thereon, which averages from 1£ to 2 pounds per skin, is of sufficient length to make it valuable whenpulled from the skin for manufacturing purposes; that, upon being scoured, it would be 202 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. worth from 60 to 65 cents per pound; that wool of much shorter length is pulled from domestic skins and sold in the market as wool, and that the wool in question is certainly of sufficient length to he of commercial value as wool. The official samples have heen submitted to a number of importers and experts at Boston and elsewhere, all of whom express the opinion that the wool thereon is of sufficient length to render it valuable as wool, and to compensate the owner for the expense of removing it. Under all the circumstances, the Department has reached the conclusion that the wool contained on these skins, which you report to consist of 7,170 pounds of class-1 wool, is liable to duty under the provisious in Schedule K, T. I., 360, and that your decision must stand affirmed. In this connection it may be mentioned that the claim of the importer that he does not desire to use the skins for the purpose of pulling the wool therefrom, but to manufacture them into gloves, mittens, saddlery, etc., can not operate to prevent the assessment of duty on the wool as prescribed by said provisions of the statute. (10208.) New York, September 22, 1890. Wool knit-goods. — We are receipt of your letter of 6th instant, transmitting protest (No. 136a) of Messrs. Baum & Mandel, against your action in assessing duty at the rate of 10 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem on certain so-called "cotton knit-goods/' imported by them per Bhaetia, July 7, 1890. An inspection of the sample accompaning the invoice discovers the merchandise to be knit goods composed of wool and cotton, and an analysis furnished by the appraiser at this port returns it as containing 50 per cent of wool shoddy and 47 per cent of cotton and 3 per cent grease, color, etc. The merchandise, which is valued at less than 30 cents per pound, has all of the appearance of wool knit goods and was evidently intended to be marketed as such, which fact, in addition to that of the wools being the chief component material, in our opinion renders your assessment of duty at 10 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem, T. I., 363, correct, and your action is affirmed. (10322 — €r. A. 43.) New York, September 26, 1890. Wool and cotton dress goods. — We are in receipt of your letter of August 26 last, transmitting protests of A. Murphy & Co. (86 a) and Schefer, Schramm & Vogel (87 a) against your assessment of duty, at the rate of 9 cents per square yard and 40 per cent ad valorem, on certain so-called " dress goods," imported in vessels named. The merchandise was returned by the appraiser as " worsted dress goods, made in part of other material, introduced for the purpose of changing the classification of duty," and duty was accordingly assessed thereon at the rate of 9 cents per square yard and 40 per cent ad valorem, under the provisions of T. I., 365. This paragraph of the tariff act of March 3, 1883, embraced in Schedule K, cover- ing wool and woolens, assesses a certain amount per square yard, besides an ad valorem duty on women's and children's dress goods, coat linings, Italian cloths, and goods of like descriptions " composed in part of wool, worsted," and other named articles, and valued at not exceeding 20 cents per square yard, and other rates on like goods valued above 20 cents per square yard. It is further provided that "if [such goods are] composed wholly of wool, worsted, the hair of the alpaca, goat, or other animals, or if a mixture of them, 9 cents per square yard and 40 per centum ad valorem, but all such goods with selvedges, made wholly or in part of other materials, or with threads of other materials introduced for the purpose of changing the classification, shall be dutiable at 9 cents per square yard and 40 per cent ad valorem." A proviso follows which does not affect the case. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 203 A chemical analysis of the goods, made by order of this hoard, shows that one sample contains 3*67 per cent of cotton irregularly dispersed; another sample 3*73 per cent, and a third as much as 8'64 per cent, the latter carded in with the wool. The other samples show no traces of cotton, hut only of colors, mordaunt, and dressing in the usual quantities. The contention of the importers is that the cotton was introduced in the form of fiber carded into the thread of the warp before spinning, and was not introduced in the form of a thread or for the purpose of changing the classification ; that they are not composed wholly of wool with selvedges made wholly or in part of any material other than wool, introduced for the purpose of changing the classification ; that, the value of the goods not being in excess of 20 cents per square yard, they are dutiable under this same paragrai>h at 5 cents per square yard and 35 per cent ad valorem. It is made to appear to us, by satisfactory information, that these goods are man- ufactured in France and are sold in that country and other parts of the continent, as well as in America. All the goods, except the sample marked "D 3867" contain- ing 8*64 per cent of cotton, are commercially classed ordinarily and sold as if com- posed wholly of Wool, the samples indicating nothing to the contrary. The material of cotton is not contained in them in such appreciable quantity as to affect their value or commercial designation. Goods which do not contain any other material in an appreciable quantity than wool must be classified practically as being wholly of wool. Hence they were, in our opinion, properly assessed as if they were all wool and not mixed goods. This view renders immaterial the ques- tion as to the intent with which the small fraction of cotton was incorporated for the existence of the intent denounced by the statute would not in this case alter the classification or rates of duty. The other goods, represented by the sample marked D 3867, stand on a different basis. Cotton is present in this merchandise in an appreciable quantity. This is apparent, from the inspection of the sample, to ordinary observation. It is readily discerned by experts and the goods are sold in the market and commercially recog- nized as composed of wool and cotton. There is no evidence tending to show that this cotton was added for the purpose of changing the classification. The inference of such a fraudulent purpose can not be deduced without some fact tending to sup- port it. The contention of the importer as to these goods is sustained. Your assessments as to the others are correct and will be affirmed. (10326 — G. A. 47.) New York, October's, 1890. Cashmere gloves and hosiery. — We are in receipt of your letter of the 16th ultimo, transmitting protest (No. 282a,) of Messrs. Wesendonck, Lorenz & Co., against your assessment of duty, at 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem, on cashmere gloves and hosiery, imported by them per Noordland, July 7, and Bhyn- land July 12, 1890. The importers claim that the merchandise should have been returned for duty as wearing apparel other than knit goods, under T. I., 366. An inspection of the goods discloses the fact that they are what are known as cashmere gloves and hose, or half-hose, manufactured from wool and are all knit goods, a portion of them made upon frames and others made into the piece and afterwards cut into shape and sewed together. Paragraph 363, T. I., new, under which duty was assessed, provides for "knit goods and all goods made on knitting frames." * * * There is no limitation as to the peculiar manner in which the knitting is to be done; in fact, the words, " made on knitting frames" evidence the intent of Congress to cover both hand-knit and machine-knit goods; nor is there any qualification as to completed articles knit in contradistinction to materials knit in the piece and subsequently made into articles. 204 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. The intent of the framers of the law would seem to us to be as manifest as to the latter class of goods as to the former, for the same paragraph quoted further says " woolen and worsted yarns and all manufactures of every description," * * * indicating that every stage or form of knitting from the yarn itself to a completed article was to be included therein. Your action in assessing duty on the merchandise, being in accordance with the above, is affirmed. (10335— O. A. 56.) New York, October 13, 1890. Constitutionality of the act of May 9, 1890. — We are in receipt of your letter of the 13th ultimo, transmitting the protests described in the accompanying sched- ule against the assessment of duty, at the rate of 35 per cent ad valorem and 35 cents per pound, on certain so-called " worsted, " imported in the vessels named. The merchandise was returned by the appraiser as "woolen cloths under 80 cents per pound," and duty was accordingly assessed thereon at the rate above stated, under the provisions of T. I., 362. It is claimed by the importer that the goods are manufactures composed wholly or in part of worsted, and not composed in part of wool, and should be classified accordingly under Schedule K, act of March 3, 1883. The correctness of this contention turns on the constitutional validity of the act approved May 9, 1890, entitled "An act providing for the classification of worsted cloths as woolens." This act reads as follows : Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives of the United States of Amer- ica in Congress assembled, That the Secretary of the Treasury be, and he is hereby, authorized and directed to classify as woolen cloths all imports of worsted cloth, whether known under the name of worsted cloth or under the name of worsteds or diagonals or otherwise. In form this act purports to authorize and direct the Secretary of the Treasury to classify all imported worsted cloths as woolen cloths. It was never intended, as seems to be supposed, that this officer should engage in the duties of an appraiser of merchandise, by himself inspecting every invoice of such goods at every port in this country, passing judgment upon them, and formally announcing his judgment. This would be both absurd and impracticable. The law itself operates ipso facto to place worsted cloths in the same category with woolen cloths as to classification aud rates of duty. In any event the circular issued by the Secretary of the Treasury on May 13, 1890, referring to the law in question, as contained in Treasury Decisions No. 10020, would have this effect if any official action on the part of this officer were needed to execute its manifest purpose. The importer, however, assails this law as unconstitutional, chiefly on the follow- ing grounds: (1) That a quorum of the House of Kepresentatives was not present when the vote was taken on the bill. (2) That a quorum of the House did not vote on the bill. (3) That the act was declared by the Speaker of the House to have been passed, and was certified to have been passed, when it had not been constitutionally enacted, which was in violation of section 5 of article 1 of the Constitution of the United States. These objections fairly present the question sought to be raised, and the power vested by Congress in this board, under the provisions of section 14 of the act of June 10, 1890, authorizing the creation of the Board of General Appraisers for the port of New York, confers on us the jurisdiction and also imposes the duty "to examine and decide the case thus submitted." The power to decide is a judicial power, and involves the authority to hear and determine by due process of law. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 205 Iii view of the importance of the issue involved, and of the large number of cases before us depending on its decision, we deem it proper to give the reasons upon which the conclusion reached by us is founded, and to cite the authorities which, in our judgment, support this conclusion. Taking judicial notice of the proceedings of the House of Representatives (as found in the Congressional Record, May 1, 1890, p. 4188) we find that the proceedings of that body disclose the following facts in taking the vote on the bill under consider- ation : • Yeas, 139 ; nays, 0 ; not voting, 189. The Speaker : The Clerk will announce the names of members present and not voting. The Clerk read. (Here follow 75 names.) The Speaker: The names of the members not voting, 75 in number, together with 138 voting in the affirmative, being 213 in all, more than a quorum necessary under the constitution to transact business, the Chair makes the following announcement of the vote : The yeas are 138, nays none, and the bill is passed. This journal of legislative proceedings is a public record, of the contents of which we are at liberty to take judicial notice without formal proof being made. (South Ottawa v. Perkins, 94 U. S.. 260; Cooley on Const. Lim., 163.) The question before us is one purely of constitutional law, and must be decided from this high standpoint, entirely free from any prejudice liable to be engendered by political considerations. The constitution of the United States (article 1, section 5) provides that "a ma- jority of each House shall constitute a quorum to do business ;" but that a smaller number may adjourn from day to day, and may be "authorized to compel the attend- ance of absent members," under proper penalties. It is further declared that "each House may determine the rules of its proceedings," and that "each House shall keep a journal of its proceedings," and "the yeas and nays of the members of either House, on any question, shall, at the desire of one-fifth of those present, be entered in the journal." The journal of the House proceedings unquestionably shows a majority of all the members to be present and a majority undoubtedly constitutes a quorum to do business. The inquiry then is reduced to this : Can the House authorize its journals to be so prepared as to show a quorum to be present, althouogh many of those in- cluded to make up the quorum were silent when the vote was taken by "ayes" and "nays" and refused themselves to record their votes? In our judgment, this au- thority seems to follow by implication from the three powers expressly enumerated in section 5, article 1. above cited : (1) The power of the House to keep a journal of its own proceedings, which car- ries with it the power to make such journal speak the truth. (2) The power to compel the attendance of absent members, which also implies the authority to utilize their attendance after their corporal presence is enforced. It could not be intended that any member should be compelled to vote irrespective of any parliamentary rule on this subject. (3) The power of the House to make its own rules of parliamentary proceedings. This would seem to. embrace the authority to adopt any mode of ascertaining the presence of a quorum in the House within the discretion of that body not expressly or impliedly prohibited by the Constitution. It is true that the House formerly had a rule of procedure which provided that when the roll-call disclosed the absence of a quorum the Chair could not go outside of the record to decide the presence of a quorum. (Constitutional Manual and Digest, second session, Forty-sixth Congress, 338.) Such, at any rate, seems to have been the practice of the Chair, although it was ordained by another rule that every member present during the call of the yeas and nays " shall vote on each question put from the Chair." The two rules are clearly repugnant, and the enforcement of either seems to be the disobedience of the other. The old rule prevailed until the adoption by the House of Representatives of tho Fifty-first Congress of Rule xv, the third paragraph of which reads as follows : 206 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. On the demand of any member, or at the suggestion of the Speaker, the names of members sufficient to make a quorum in the hall of the House, who do not vote, shall be noted by the Clerk, and recorded in the journal, and reported to the Speaker with the names of the members voting, and be counted and announced in determining the presence of a quorum to do business. Whether the latter rule was formerly in force, as such;, when the act of May 9> 1890, under consideration, was passed, we are not accurately advised; nor do we deem this inquiry material, as the principle of' the new rule was followed by the House on the adoption of the act as shown by the journal of its proceedings above quoted. If the constitutional power existed to adopt the new rule for all cases, the like power certainly existed to adopt it for a single case. Parliamentary rules are chiefly designed for the convenient and orderly dispatch of legislative and other business, and no one will contend that the mere violation by either House of Con- gress of one of its own rules of procedure, not required by the fundamental law, would authorize a court to hold void a law enacted through the instrumentality of the violation of such rule. The settled rule of construction is that constitutions, like statutes, must be con- strued in the light of the principles of the common law. This rule generally was that a majority of the quorum of an assembly actually present must control, although less than a quorum may vote. This is the undisputed law of both England and America in reference to corporations, public and private, including municipal cor- porations. In Rex v. Monday, Couper, 538, Lord Mansfield said: When the assembly are duly met, I take it to be clear that the corporate act may be done by the majority of those who once regularly constituted the meeting. The following language is used in Willcock on Municipal Corporations, a very old work, and it is believed to correctly state the rule as to the election of corporate officers and the enactment of corporate ordinances: After an election has been properly proposed, whoever has a majority of those who vote, the assembly being sufficient, is elected, although a majority of the entire assembly altogether abstain from voting; because their presence suffices to consti- tute the elective body, and if they neglect to vote it is their own fault, and shall not invalidate the act of the others, but be construed as an assent to the determination of the majority of those who do vote. In the case of Rex v. Foxcraft, 2 Burr, 1017, which involved the election of a town clerk, Lord Mansfield observed that u whenever electors are present and decline to vote at all (as they have done here) they virtually acquiesce in the election made by those who do," and so the other judges held. This ruling was approved by Lord Penman, C. J., in Gosling v. Veley, 7 A. and E., 439, and again when the same case came before the House of Lords. The English rule has been adopted quite unani- mously in this country, and is voiced in the declaration of Chancellor Kent that "a majority of the quorum may decide." The adjudged cases fully support this view, and hold that members who are pres- ent and refuse to vote may be considered as acquiescing in the voice of the majority of those actually voting. The authorities are lucidly reviewed in the recent case of The Rushville Gas Com- pany v. The City of Rushville (121 Ind., 207), decided by the supreme court of Indiana as late as the year 1889. There the common council of the town of Rush- ville was composed of six members. All were present when the vote was taken on the acceptance of a contract for lighting the town. Only three voted for the reso- lution, which was a majority of a quorum, but not a majority of those present. It was said by the court: "The rule is that if there is a quorum present, and a majority of the quorum vote in favor of a measure, it will prevail, although an equal number should refrain from voting. It is not the majority of the whole num- ber of members present that is required; all that is required is a majority of the number of members required to constitute a quorum. 7; And again: "The mere presence of inactive members does not impair the right of the quorum to proceed WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 207 with the business of the body. If members present desire to defeat a measure they must vote against it, for inaction will not accomplish their purpose. Their silence is, in fact, a declaration that they consent that the majority of a quorum may act for the body of which they are members. " The same view is taken by the supreme court of Illinois in the case of Launtz v. The People (113 111., 137), decided in 1886. The charter of the city of East St. Louis gave the mayor the right to give the casting vote in case of a tie. Four of eight councilmen present voted in the affirmative for the election of an officer. The other four being present refused to vote either way on the call of "ayes" and "nays." It was held that the mayor could treat those present and not voting as . opposed to those who had voted, and decide the question by voting also in the affirmative. In State v. Green (37 Ohio St., 227), it Avas held that members of a city council present and refusing to vote when their names were called could not defeat the election of a clerk or divest the body of the power to elect. The legal effect of refusing to vote was, in other words, held to be an acquiescence in the choice of those who did vote, a quorum being present, although a quorum did not actually vote. An analogous principle was applied to popular elections by the U. S. Supreme Court in the case of the County of Cass v. Johnson (95 U. S., 360), where they con- strued a clause in the Missouri constitution. The general assembly was prohibited by this clause from authorizing any county to loan its credit to any corporation "unless two-thirds of the qualified voters " of such county at an election duly author- ized assented thereto. It was held that all qualified voters who absented themselves from such election were "presumed to assent to the expressed will of the majority of those voting, unless the law providing for the election otherwise declares." It was observed that " any other rule would be productive' of the greatest inconvenience, *and ought not to be adopted unless the legislative will to that effect is clearly expressed." The same rule was declared in St. Joseph Township v. Rogers (16 Wall? 644). A like doctrine has been announced by the highest judicatories of several other States, whose decisions are of great authority. In fact, we find no case opposed to this view, and it is abundantly supported by the authorities.- (Angell and Ames on Corp., sec. 126, 127 ; Grant on Corx>., 71; Horr and Bemiss on Municipal and Police Ord., 42; 1 Dillon on Municipal Corp. (4th ed.), sec. 278, 282.) To reach the conclusion that the House of Representatives of the U. S. Con- gress, invested as it is with the express powers to "determine the rules of its pro- ceedings," can not constitutionally change a preexisting rule on the subject under consideration so as to declare on its journals the fact of a quorum being present, if the fact exists, we must be pointed to some clause in the Federal Constitution which curtails or limits the general power to make such rules, so as to forbid the exercise of such authority. It may be that since the foundation of the Government the House has followed another and contrary rule. This rule has been characterized as "the precedent of a hundred years." The existence of such a rule, we repeat, does not argue the constitutional disability of the same body to change or modify that rule or precedent, unless, in doing so, they violate some prohibition of the instru- ment from which tbej derive all their powers. It is not unreasonable to suppose that the framers of that instrument intended to confer the power to make a rule, which at that time was the accepted rule of parliamentary law among all English- speaking people, governing the legislative action of every municipal corporation in England and the American colonies. There would be no valid reason for conceding such a power to every petty corporation in the land and denying it at the same time to one of the legislative houses of Congress. A fortiori should it be conceded to the more important body. Its purpose is to prevent the unreasonable obstruction of legislative business by the mere silence of members who are present and refuse to 208 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. vote. The theory of the law is that members can not, by refusing to vote at all, accomplish more towards defeating a bill or resolution than they could by voting against it. The presence of a qualified member of the House while the legislative business is progressing must, for this reason, bo construed as a participation in such business. The compulsory attendance of recusant members would be a nugatory power in the absence of the power to recognize their presence after they had been brought into the House. A refusal to vote, therefore, when present, can not law- fully operate as an abdication of membership by a member who is actually in the House. Such is deemed to be the recognized rule governing the procedure of the English Parliament. (North American Review, September, 1890, 372.) Add to these considerations the proposition of law, now generally accepted by the courts, that no law ought to be declared unconstitutional unless, in clear cases, where the deciding court entertains no doubt as to its unconstitutionality, and we have no alternative left but to sustain the act of May 9, 1890, under consideration. Our opinion is that the objections to the validity of the law are not well taken, and that we can not go back behind the fact of its attestation by the President of the Senate and the Speaker of the House, and its approval by the President, all of which are regular, to ascertain whether or not in its passage the House of Repre- sentatives violated any parliamentary rule or precedent, however ancient its ex- istence. It follows from what we have said that the assessment of duty in the several cases above mentioned were properly made, and the decision of the collector is ac- cordingly affirmed. (10336— O. A. 57.) New York, October 17, 1890. Dress goods. — We are in receipt of your letter of the 16th ultimo, transmitting the protests hereinafter described, against your assessment of duty, at the rate of 7 cents per square yard and 40 per cent ad valorem, on certain so-called "wool and silk goods/' imported in the vessels named. The merchandise was returned by the appraiser upon the invoices as " in part worsted dress goods," costing over 20 cents per square yard, and duty was assessed accordingly, under the provisions of T. L, 365. This paragraph of the tariff law imposes the above rates on " women's and children's dress goods, coat linings, Ital- ian cloths, and goods of like description, composed in part of wool, worsted," and other named materials valued at above 20 cents per yard. The special report of the assistant appraiser shows that these goods are u composed of worsted in the weft and silk in the warp, and are similar to women's and chil- dren's dress goods." Samples of the goods attached to this report present the ap- pearance of such similarity to the eye and iu texture. It is contended that under the provisions of section 2499 of the Revised Statutes, as amended by the act of March 3, 1883* these goods should pay a duty of 50 per cent ad valorem. The clause of this section specially invoked by the appellant is the italicized part following of the above section : Sec. 2499. There shall be levied, collected, and paid on each and every nonenu- merated article which bears a similitude, either in material, texture, or the use to which it may be applied, to any article enumerated in this title as chargeable with duty the same rate of duty which is levied and charged on the enumerated article which it most resembles in any of the particulars before mentioned; and if any non- enumerated article equally resembles two or more enumerated articles on which different rates are chargeable, there shall be levied, collected, and paid on such non- enumerated article the same rate of duty as is chargeable on the article which it re- sembles paying the highest duty; and on all articles manufactured from tivo or more materials the duty shall be assessed at the highest rates at which the component material of chief value may be chargeable. If two or more rates of duty should be applicable to any imported article it shall be classified for duty under the highest of such rates: Provided, That nonenumerated articles similar in material and quality and texture, and the use to which they may be applied, to articles on the free iist, and in the manufacture of which no dutiable materials are used, shall be free. (Law of Cus- toms (Elmes), 402.) WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OP WOOL. 209 This section lias been held to apply to nonenuinerated articles only, and was designed to prevent evasions of the customs laws, and to guide the classification of certain articles, not within the strict letter of the tariff law, but within its real intent and meaning. If a given article, therefore, is enumerated the section can have no application to the case. (Arthur v. Fox, 108 U. S., 125; Arthur v. Sussfeld, 96 U. S., 128.) But "to place articles among those designated as enumerated it is not necessary that they should be specially meutioned. It is sufficient that they are designated in any way to distinguish them from other articles." (Arthur v, Butterfield, 125 U. S., 70.) The inquiry before us is whether the goods under consideration are "goods of like description" with "women's and children's dress goods, coat linings (or) Italian cloth," composed in part of wool or worsted, within the meaning of T. L, 365. The Supreme Court of the United States has several times construed the phrase " of similar description," which has long appeared in the tariff laws enacted by Congress. That phrase is tantamount in meaning to "like description," and can mean nothing different. It has been held not to be a commercial phrase, nor does it involve the idea that the goods classed under it shall be in all respects the same. The similarity required is one in product, in adaptation to uses, and to its actual uses, and not merely the process by which it was produced. (Schmieder v. Bar- ney, 113 U. S., 645; Greenleaf v. Goodrich, 101 U. S., 278.) " Women's and chil- dren's dress goods" is a phrase of commercial designation. The goods in ques- tion are substantially like such dress goods. They are, therefore, to be deemed the same and to be charged accordingly. In other words, this class of merchandise "is provided for under the name of what it resembles." (Fisk v. Arthur, 103 U. S., 431,434.) Applying these principles to the facts before us, we are of opinion that the goods in question were properly classified by the appraiser as of like description with the class of dress goods enumerated in T. I., 365, above cited. The assessment of duty as made by you was proper, and your decision is affirmed. (10313— G. A. 61.) New York, October 23, 1890. Children's wearing apparel. — Your letter of the 20th ultimo is received, cov- ering protest (No. 97 b) of Messrs. Zimmerman Bros. Clothing Company, against the exaction of duty, at 45 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem, on certain so- called children's wearing apparel, under paragraph 367 of the act of March 3, 1883, claiming that it is dutiable, under paragraph 366, at 40 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem. It appears from the invoice that the merchandise in this case is clothing, ready- made, since it is invoiced as "boys' suits." But the clause of paragraph 367 under which it is assessed for duty is the following: "Cloaks, dolmans, jackets, talmas, ulsters, or other outside garments for ladies' and children's apparel, and goods of similar description, or used for like purposes" — that is to say, "outside garments" for the appareling of women and children. # It should be noted that the articles enumerated in this paragraph are all outside garments and all designed for women and children, and the general clause is, "goods of similar description, or used for like purposes." These descriptions do not comprehend the merchandise subject of appeal, either directly or by implication ; certainly not if it is more definitely pro- vided for in any other paragraph of the wool schedule. The specific enumeration of articles is found in paragraph 367, and it consists, in particular and in general, of outside garments. On the other hand, the general designation, which is very comprehensive, is found in paragraph 366, as follows: "Clothing, ready-made, and wearing apparel of every description, not specifically provided for in this act." H. Mis. 94 14 210 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. The merchandise in question is clearly not specifically enumerated, but falls under the general clause of paragraph 366. The appeal is sustained, and you will reliquidate the entry in accordance there- with. (10351— O. A. 7 2.) New York, October 29, 1890. Waterproof garments. — We are in receipt of your several communications trans- mitting protests, as per annexed schedule, against your action in assessing duty, at the rates provided for wool wearing apparel and ladies' outside garments made wholly or in part of wool, on certain so-called " India-rubber fabrics/' which were claimed by the importers to be dutiable at 30 per cent ad valorem under the provi- sions of paragraph 453, act of March 3, 1883. The merchandise under consideration consists of completed garments manufac- tured from wool and rubber mixed fabrics, which fabrics, had they been imported in the piece and not made into garments, would, in our opinion, have been covered by paragraph 453, as heretofore ruled by us, under date of September 9, 1890, G. A. 19: The word fabric, in its broader sense, would include manufactured articles of almost every description, but a narrower interpretation must be placed upon the word con- formable with the intent of Congress and commercial usage. This would limit the term to a class of textile fabrics or piece goods. The process of manufacturing the fabrics, which are provided for at one rate, into specific articles subject to duty at another rate permeates the whole tariff acl. We need merely to cite the case of bonnets made from silk to exemplify this point. The wearing apparel and ladies 7 outside garments, the subject of the protests under con- sideration, are composed in part of wool; they therefore fulfill all the requirements of paragraphs 366 and 367 of the act of 1883, and inasmuch as there is no specific provision relative to garments made of rubber or of rubber fabrics, your action in returning them for duty under the paragraphs cited was, in our opinion correct, and stands affirmed, f 10389— O. A. 800 New York, November 18, 1890, Woolen elastic fabrics. — The merchandise in dispute was entered prior to October, 1890, and was, therefore, dutiable in conformity with the act of March, 1883. It consisted of an elastic fabric made from wool, cotton, and rubber, commercially known as " webbing," which the appellant claims should have been returned for duty as manufactures of rubber at 25 per cent ad valorem, under T. I., 454, or as India-rubber fabrics, under T. I., 453, at 30 per cent ad valoiem, and not at 30 cents per pound and 50 per cent ad valorem, which was the rate assessed. There are four paragraphs of the act of 1883, either of which, standing alone, would control the classification of the merchandise upon appeal, viz, those which provide for (1) manufactures wholly or in part of rubber; (2) India-rubber fabrics; (3) Webbing; (4) webbing cchnposed in part of wool. These four paragraphs must be construed so as to harmonize all inconsistencies, which can only be done by giving the most specific provision precedence of the others. A true interpretation of the law affecting the material would, in our opinion, be as follows : (1) All manufactures composed wholly or in part of rubber, except India-rubber fabrics, 25 per cent ad valorem ; and as the merchandise is a fabric, the first claim of the appellant is accordingly denied. (2) All India-rubber fabrics, except webbing, 30 per cent ad valorem. The material being invoiced as webbing, and as there is no dispute relative to thispoint, this alter- nate claim of the importer is also rejected. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 211 (3) All webbing except such as is composed in part of wool, 35 per cent ad valorem ; but in the present case wool forming a constituent part of the webbing, T. I., 368, becomes the specific provision covering the same. This ruling is in keeping with a former decision of the board, dated September 9, 1890, G. A. 19, and the assessment of duty at 30 cents per pound and 50 per cent ad valorem, being in conformity therewith, is affirmed. (1046§— €r. A. 118.) New York, November 21, 1890. Dutiable charges— Cutting into lengths of woolen cloths.— The appraiser reports that all the nondutiable charges were deducted by the appellants at the time of the entry, and were allowed, and that duty was assessed only upon the esti- mated "net market value of the goods per se." The goods in question were woolen and worsted cloths, and were imported on July 30, 1890. It was held by the collector that the cost of cutting the goods into various lengths for suits, etc., was a proper element of dutiable value, and it was added as such. The contention of the appellants on this point is stated in the seventh ground of their protest, as follows: "We claim the cutting of the cloth in pieces of 10, 15, and 20 yards or other lengths to be part of the putting up of the goods, and (as such to be) nondutiable." Under the provisions of section 2907, U. S. Revised Statutes, it was required, among other things, that there should be added not only the value of the coverings of imported merchandise, "but all other actual or usual charges for putting up, preparing, and packing for transportation or shipment. " This section was repealed by the act of March 3, 1883, which provided that thereafter none of the charges im- posed by the above section should be estimated in ascertaining market value. (Notes on Rev. Stat. U. S. (^Gould v. Tucker), p. 619.) This clearly abolished as an element of dutiable value charges for. putting up, preparing, and packing such merchandise for transportation. Is this a charge of that kind? Were the goods cut into lengths for the purpose of putting them up or preparing them for shipment, or was this additional expense incurred in order to render them more salable by adapting the goods to the market for certain uses? If it was a finishing process requiring some degree of art or skill and added anything to the market value of the goods prior to shipment, then it was an element of dutiable value. Such, we think, it was ; and prima facie the market value of the goods was enhanced to the extent of the prime cost o'f the work. The practice of the customs collectors has been in accordance with this view. (Synopsis Treasury decisions 9964.) We deem it cor- rect, and the collector's decision in this case is affirmed. (10481 O. A. — 131.) New York, November 25, 1890. Wool on "Cape" skins. — The appeal is indefinite, as the importer simply pro- tests against the amount of duty exacted, without distinctly claiming free entry or specifying under what clause of the tariff or at what rate his merchandise should be classified. It is probable, however, that his intention was to claim free entry, as the protest states: " These skins are known as common Cape sheep and are cov- ered with short, coarse hair. A small amount of wool is found on a few of the skins, but is so short and so mixed with hair that it has no commercial value except as hair." While the protest is in itself fatally defective, it is not difficult to show on other grounds why it is not tenable. The invoice under consideration enumerates several hundred " dry goatskins," which were classified as "raw goatskins, free," and "750 dry sheepskins." The appraiser returned for duty 530 pounds of wool, class 1, upon these sheepskins. 212 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. CoDfining consideration to the claim for free entry, it may be said that an exam- ination of samples by competent experts, and a careful investigation of the case show that the wool has a commercial value of 15 cents a pound, and that it can be used in the manufacture of carpets and blankets. In Synopsis 7147 the Department decided that the skins of common Cape goats with the hair on should be admitted free of duty under T. I., 709, " goatskins, raw." But the skins in question are not those of the common Cape goat, indeed they are from a very uncommon goat, if, as is claimed, the animal is a cross between a sheep and a goat. The invoice enumerates the articles as sheepskins, the appellant declares that they are skins of the common Cape sheep, and the wool on the skins proves that they are from the back of sheep whether run down or bastard. There is no provision in the tariff for the free entry of such merchandise, and the decision of the collector must, therefore, stand. (10492 — O. A. 142.) New York, November 25, 1890. Wool noils. — Duty was assessed at 30 cents per pound for wool, class 1, scoured, value in the grease under 30 cents per pound, paragraphs 356 and 357 of the act of 1883. Appellants claim that the goods in question are noils made from carpet wool, and should be rated at 5 cents per pound as wool of the third class costing over 12 cents a pound. The appraiser reports that "the merchandise in question consists of carded wool noils made from improved Turkish wool of Merino blood, and is in a scoured con- dition." In this statement he is sustained by a number of reputable wool experts of Philadelphia, and by the New York appraising officers. It is proper to say that the question has been one of great difficulty to the board. The wool in its present condition has lost all of its distinctive features, and it is doubtful whether it can be absolutely identified as coming from any particular class. In such a case, were the evidence evenly balanced, we should give the importer the benefit of the doubt; but in this instance the preponderance of the testimony taken before us here is to the effect that the noils are from a low-grade first-class wool, and we therefore affirm the decision of the collector. (10495 — Cr. A. 145.) New York, December 2, 1890. Tennis balls. — The assessment of duty, at the rate of 25 per cent ad valorem, upon the so-called "gut," which consists of racquet gut strings, according with a previous decision of this board, dated November 3, 1890 (G. A. 88), is affirmed. In relation to the assessment of duty upon the tennis balls at 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem, under the provisions of paragraph 362, act of March 3, 1883, instead of 25 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 454, as claimed, we are of the opinion that the claim of the importers should not be sustained, for the follow- ing reasons: The merchandise consists of rubber balls inflated with air or gas and hermetically sealed, which balls are subsequently covered with a woolen fabric. It appears from the evidence that the rubber forms the chief component material of value, but this fact is not deemed material, inasmuch as the provisions of paragraph 362 are esteemed equally as specific as those of paragraph 454. The one provides for manufactures composed wholly or in part of wool, and the other for articles com- posed of India rubber. Both conditions are fulfilled in the present instance. The tennis balls are made partly of wool and chiefly of India rubber. The two rates are applicable therefor, and in conformity with section 2499 of the Revised Statutes of the United States, which requires that duty must be assessed at the higher rate, we affirm the decision of the collector, (10511.— <*• A» I61«) WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 213 New York, December 11, 1890. Hat crowns and bead ornaments. — The subject of controversy in this case is the proper classification of certain hat crowns and certain ornaments composed of heads. Accepting as true the statement of facts made by the appraiser, the hat crowns are simply flat pieces of wool and silk, designed probably for use in the making of hats, but not even shaped. Of the bead ornaments a sample accompanies the papers. It is a leaf-shaped article 3 inches long by 1-J inches wide at the base, tapering to a point at the apex, the edges being irregular. The foundation of it is coarse cotton, which is entirely covered with small gold-colored glass beads, interspersed with a dozen larger glass beads of a pale blue color. The appraiser returned the hat crowns for duty as wool trimmings at 30 cents per pound and 50 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 368 of the act of March 3, 1883, and the collector so classified them, but in his special report he admits his error, and places them under paragraph 362 of said act, as a manufacture wholly or in part of wool, not specially enumerated or provided for, at 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem. The bead ornaments were returned for duty by the appraiser at 50 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 396 of said act, and so classified by the collector. He admits that his return of commission for duty was erroneous. Appellants protest against the classification of both classes of articles, claiming that the hat crowns are hats, dutiable at 30 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 400 of said act, and that the beads are dutiable as a manufacture of glass and cotton, glass chief value, at 45 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 143 of said act. It is submitted as an incontrovertible proposition that flat pieces of wool and silk are not hats, and hence that the contention of appellants as to this point is ground- less. It is equally plain that they are not dress trimmings, or wool trimmings, within the meaning of paragraph 368 of the wool schedule; aud that they are not specially provided for in that paragraph or in any other paragraph of the act of March 3, 1883. This bein 41— C A. 191.) New York, December 15, 1890. Silk and wool knit goods. — The merchandise in question consists of knit under- wear composed of wool and silk, and wool, cotton, and silk, upon which duty was assessed at 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 363 of the act of 1883. Against this rate of duty the importers protest, claiming that silk formed the component material of chief value in the garments, and that consequently they should have been classified as manufactures made of silk, or of which silk is the component material of chii f value, and duty assessed upon them at 50 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 383. The goods are itemized in the invoice as " ladies' wool vests." From the evidence 214 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. submitted in the case it appears they are known commercially as " knit goods." It would, therefore, seem to us immaterial whether silk was or was not the component material of chief value. Paragrai>h 362 provides for "all manufactures of wool of every description made wholly or in part of wool * * * valued at above eighty cents per pound, thirty- five cents per pound and in addition thereto forty per centum ad valorem." Paragraph 363 reads: "Flannels, blankets, hats of wool knit goods, and all goods made on knitting-frames * * * valued at above eighty cents per pound, thirty- five cents per pound and in addition thereto forty per centum ad valorem." So far as the component parts, silk and wool, are concerned, the term "of which silk is the component material of chief value" is no more specific than "composed in part of wool," and the rates applicable to the two materials would be equally operative, but the words "knit goods" are more descriptive of the knit underwear in question than either of the former terms and controls the classification. The merchandise upon appeal being valued at over 80 cents per pound, the assess- ment of duty upon the same at 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem was, in our opinion, correct, and is affirmed. (10552* — O. A. 202*) New York, December 16, 1890. Wool knit caps. — The importers claim that the goods in dispute are "Scotch bonnets, caps, or hoods," dutiable at 30 per cent ad valorem, under the provisions of paragraph 400 of the act of March 3, 1883, or, if they are not bonnets or hoods, they are properly dutiable as such under the similitude clause of section 2499 of the lievised Statutes of the United States. As heretofore ruled by this Board, the law of assimilation can not be applied to goods enumerated or provided for in the act either denominatively or as a material, and we shall not give consideration to this portion of the appellants' claim, but con- fine ourselves to the question : Does the merchandise upon appeal consist of bonnets, hats, or hoods within the meaning of the law? The articles are described in the in voice as "Tarn O'Shanters," "Brights," " Wind- sors," "Belmonts," etc. The testimony of the appraising officer relative to them is to the effect that they are not commercially known as bonnets or hoods, but as caps ; also that they are knitted goods, manufactured from worsted. It is true that caps, like bonnets and hoods, are head coverings, but this is not sufficient to make them dutiable at the same rate* as long as they are known com- mercially as separate articles. So well established is this point that further argu- ment relative thereto is not deemed necessary by us. It is contended, however, that paragraph 400, which specified ' bonnets, hats, and hoods," intended to include all manner of head-wear. In the absence of any anibi-. guity in the language of this paragraph the intent of the framers thereof can not be considered. In our opinion, there is no ambiguity in paragraph 400. Bonnets, hats, hoods, and caps are separate and distinct articles of trade and commerce in the United States, and, caps not having been provided for by name either in paragraph 400 or elsewhere in the act, the claim of the appellants is rejected. The assessment of duty upon them in accordance with their weight and value, under the provision in T. L, 363, for wool knit goods, is therefore affirmed. (10562* — G. A. 212.) New York. December 17, 1890. Felt hats varnished. — It appears from the evidence submitted, that the mer- chandise in dispute consists of felted wool hats varnished, valued at over 80 cents per pound, which were returned for duty at the rate of 35 cents per pound and 40 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 215 per cent ad valorem, in accordance with the provisions of paragraph 363 of the act of 1883. The importers, in their notice of dissatisfaction, claim that, inasmuch as hats are specially enumerated and provided for in paragraph 400, duty should have been assessed upon them at 30 per cent ad valorem, in conformity with the provisions thereof. It is true, as alleged by the appellants, that 'hats" are specially provided for in paragraph 400, hut we find that "hats of wool" are also provided for eo nomine in. paragraph 363. Hats, bonnets, and hoods represent a certain class of merchandise, while the term "hats of wool" describes a particular variety of that class, and is consequently the more specific enumeration of the two. This opinion is in keeping with the long established ruling of the Treasury Department, the correctness of which we presume is not questioned in the present case. The real contention on the part of the appellants is, that the hats in dispute being varnished have lost their commercial identity as "hats of wool," and are, for all intents and purposes, sub- ject to no special provision other than that contained in paragraph 400, and we are of the opinion that this claim of the importers is not tenable. It is not an imperative rule that hats of wool shall be so commercially known ; they may be designated by the ordinary trade name "Derby" and still be more specifically enumerated as hats of wool than other hats. The varnished ones upon appeal have had their identity impaired by the varnishing process, but in substance they remain unchanged, and are still "hats of wool;" they are certainly not hats of varnish. For the reasons stated, the assessment of duty upon them at 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem was, in our opinion, correct, and is affirmed. ( 1 0565* — O. A. 215.) New York, December 20, 1890. Dress goods, silk- warp Henriettas. — The appraiser returns the goods as "silk- warp Henrietta," composed of wool or worsted in part, and silk in part, in the lower grades of which silk is the component material of chief value, and in the higher grades the wool is of chief value. They are invoiced as " dress goods, silk warps, and Henriettas," and are stated to consist of women's and children's dress goods composed of silk in the warp and worsted in the weft. The goods were classified by the collector under paragraph 365 of the tariff law of 1883, and assessed accord- ingly. The only contention presented by the importer in his protest is that silk is the component material of chief value, and that the merchandise should be assessed at 50 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 383, which levies that rate of duty on "all goods, wares, and merchandise, not specially enumerated or provided for in this act, made of silk, or of which silk is the component material of chief value." Admitting the truth of the fact claimed as to the relative value of the silk material in these dress goods, they can not properly be classified under T. I., 383, because they are specially provided for by the more particular designation of "women's and children's dress goods * * * composed in part of wool, worsted," etc., under T. I., 365. This fact takes the goods out of the operation of the other paragraph describing them only by the chief value of the component material of silk. This view was taken by the Treasury Department as far back as October, 1883, as will appear by Synopsis of Treasury Decisions No. 5953, and the uniform customs practice has been in accordance with that ruling. The collector's decision must be affirmed. (] 05*71* — O* A. 221.) New York, December 20, 1890. Wool knit goods, silk chief value. — The goods are stated to be composed of silk and wool, and are commercially known as " ladies' vests, knit goods." They were 216 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. classified as worsted "knit goods " under paragraph 363 of the tariff act of 1883, Schedule K, relating to " wool and woolens." That paragraph enumerates "flannels, blankets, hats of wool, Jcnit goods, and all goods made on knitting frames, balmorals, woolen and worsted yarns, and all manufactures of every description, composed wholly or in part of worsted, the hair of the alpaca, goat, or other animals (except such as are composed in part of wool), not specially enumerated or provided for in this act/ 7 meaning the act of March 3, 1883. "Knit goods" by that designation are also excepted from the provision made for " wearing apparel of every description n by paragraph 366. The contention of the importers is that silk enters into these goods as the com- ponent material of chief value, and for this reason they should be classified under paragraph 383 of said act. Commercial designation is the first and most important inquiry, and when this fails resort must next be had to common designation. (Robertson v. Solomon, 130 U. S., 412.) The phrase "knit goods," whether one of commercial or common designation, is more minute in description than a description of the material from which an. article is manufactured, or of the component material of chief value. Although, therefore, the goods are made in part of silk, and silk be conceded to be the component material of chief value, they do not come within the scope of paragraph 383, because they are provided for otherwise in paragraph 363 under the more specific description " knit goods " composed in part of worsted. The decision of the collector is affirmed. (105 7 2. — O. A, 222.) New York, January 14, 1891. Wool, silk, and cotton upholstery goods.— We find the merchandise in question to be, as returned by the appraiser, a manufacture of wool, silk, and cotton, commercially known as "upholstery goods, n in which wool is the component of chief value, costing over 80 cents per pound. The goods were assessed under paragraph 362 of the tariff law of 1883 at 35 cents per pound, and in addition thereto 40 per cent ad valorem. The sole contention in the protests is that the merchandise should have been assessed, under paragraph 383, at 50 per cent ad valorem, because it is not specially provided for in said law, and that silk is the component material of chief value enter- ing into the manufacture. The collector's decision must stand as presumptively correct unless this contention is sustained. No evidence is produced or offered before the board, after fair oppor- tunity given, to sustain the assertion made in the protests, and it is unsustained by any fact in the record. The decision of the collector is accordingly affirmed in each of said cases. ( 10664 — G. A. 248.) New York, January 14, 1891. Shoes of wool and leather. — The merchandise in question consists of ladies' kid shoes with woolen cloth quarters. It is in evidence that the leather in them forms the component material of chief value. Inasmuch, however, as wool enters iuto the composition of the articles, they were returned for duty as part wool wear- ing apparel at 49^ cents per pound and 60 per cent ad valorem, under the provisions of paragraph 396. The collector, in his letter of transmittal, states that upon a review of the subject, and an examination of the samples, he is convinced that the merchandise should have been rated for duty at 25 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 456. The term "shoes made of leather" implies shoes manufactured chiefly of leather WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OP WOOL. 217 This condition is fulfilled in the present case, as the quantity of wool is insignifi- cant in comparison with the leather. Having established the fact that the articles are shoes made of leather, it is not deemed necessary to consider whether they are wearing apparel or not. The claim of the appellants, therefore, that duty should have been assessed upon the merchandise at 25 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 456, is sustained. (10665— G A. 249.) New York, January 21, 1891. Table-covers composed in part of metal. — The merchandise comprises table- covers composed of cotton and metal; jute, cotton, and metal ; and cotton, wool, and metal, in all of which cotton is the component material of chief value, and metal an appreciable part and distinct feature. With respect to that portion of the goods, the classification of which is dependent upon that point, the importers admit that metal constitutes from 8 to 10 per cent of the value of the whole, and the articles are invoiced as " cotton and metal table-covers." The importers claim that the appraisers erred in returning the merchandise cov- ered by quality numbers 420 and 421 as part wool, but this allegation was negatived as to quality 420 by a statement of the shipper thereof that wool entered into their composition to an appreciable extent. With regard to quality 421, concerning which the importers claim that it is duti- able as a manufacture of cotton at 35 per cent or 40 per cent aH valorem, we find, from the evidence, that metal formed an appreciable portion of the value of the same. This fact is fatal to the contention of the importers, and leaves the rate of duty assessed uJ)on the goods final and conclusive against them. Duty was assessed upon the metal and cotton covers at 45 per cent ad valorem, under the pro- visions of paragraph 216, and upon the wool, cotton, and metal covers, valued at not over 80 cents per pound, at 35 cents per pound and 35 per cent, under paragraph 362. The exaction of the specified rates was, in our opinion, correct, for the reason that the several terms " manufactures of cotton, " "made wholly or in part of wool," and "made wholly or in part of metal," are equally specific, and, according to the pro- visions of section 2499, Revised Statutes, the highest rate applicable to either of the materials mentioned must be imposed upon articles manufactured from two or more of them in combination. The decision of the collector is accordingly affirmed. (10672 — O. A. 256.) New York, January 23, 1891. Cotton, wool and silk shirtings. — We find the facts in this case to be as reported by the surveyor. The merchandise consists of cotton, wool, and silk shirtings. They were classified under paragraph 395 of the act of October 1, 1890, at 12 cents per square yard and 50 per cent ad valorem. Appellants claim that they are enti- tled to entry under paragraph 394 of said act, on the ground that the warp thereof is composed wholly of vegetable material, whereas it is composed of cotton and silk, and silk is not a vegetable material. The decision of the surveyor is sustained. (10682 — O. A. 266.) New. York, January 27, 1891. Traveling rugs. — The articles subject of protest in this case are invoiced as ""rugs." But the appraiser reports that they are square robes, used for protection against cold, and that they are commercially known as " lap robes." The samples submitted support this statement; one is a plush about 3J feet wide by 5| feet long, with plain edges ; the other a checked cloth, about 4 feet wide by 6 feet long, with 218 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. plain edges on the sides and fringed ends. They were returned by the appraiser as "wool shawls," and so classified for duty by the collector as manufactures of wool, under paragraphs 362 and 363 of the act of March 3, 1883, respectively, at 35 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem, and 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem. Appellants claim that they are traveling or carriage rugs, and, indirectly, that they are dutiable at 40 per cent ad valorem under paragraph 378 of said act. No doubt they are used by travelers both in carriages and railway coaches for the pro- tection of the person, and they are perhaps commercially and commonly known in England and on the continent of Europe as "rugs." But in this country they are commercially and commonly known as " lap robes." The rug known to the tariff seems to be an article for the floor, in the nature of a carpet. It is provided for in the act of 1883, not in the wearing apparel or the cloth paragraphs, but in one of the carpet paragraphs, 378, namely, " and mats, rugs, screens," etc. ; and the same asso- ciation is maintained in the present law, paragraph 408, "mats, rugs, screens, covers, hassocks," etc., "shall be subjected to the rate of duty herein imposed on carpets," etc. The articles subject of appeal are not known as rugs to the trade and commerce of this country, nor do they appear to have been known to the legislative mind in the enactment of the law of 1883. They are therefore not specially provided for, but fall under paragraph 362 of said act, where they are placed for classification. The decision of the collector is affirmed. (10722 — £r. A. 275.) New York, January 28, 1891, Wool flannels. — The merchandise in this case consists of flannel shirtings. It was so invoiced, and was entered as flannels. The appraiser's special report states that it was returned for duty as "woolen cloths," whereas it should have been returned as wool flannel. It was assessed for duty as " wool flannel costing over 80 cents per pound," at 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 363 of the act of March 3, 1883. Appellants protest against this classification on the ground that silk is the component material of chief value thereof, and hence that it is entitled to entry at 50 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 383 of said act. The merchandise is represented by samples. An expert witness describes it as follows : " It is a manufacture composed of wool, silk, and cotton, of which wool is the component material of chief value. It is commercially known and dealt in as i flannel/ The chain is composed principally of cotton with a few threads of colored silk to form fancy stripes, and the filling is wholly of fine wool." This testimony effectually disposes of the contention of appellants. By reason both of its commercial designation and its component materials it falls under para- graph 363. The decision of the collector is affirmed. (10726— O. A. 279.) New York, January 28, 1891. Common goat hair. — The merchandise in question is invoiced as goat hair, and the evidence shows that it is the hair of the common goat, and is unfit for combing purposes. The article was classified by the collector as goat hair under paragraph 377, Schedule K, of the new tariff act of October 1, 1890, and was assessed at 12 cents per pound under paragraph 384. The importers contend that the article is free under the provisions of paragraph 604 of the free list, which reads as follows : " Hair of horse, cattle, and other animals^ cleaned or uncleaned, drawn or undrawn, but unmanufactured, not specially provided for in this act * * WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 219 The whole question is, whether goat hair, as 'such, is specially provided for in paragraph 377, above cited. This paragraph embraces " class 2," and the enumeration is as follows: Leicester, Cotswold, Lincolnshire, down combing wools, Canada long wools, or other like combing wools of English blood, and usually known by the terms herein used, and also hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, and other like animals. Paragraph 384 levies 12 cents per pound upon " all wools or hair of the second class," which includes those above enumerated. Our duty is to interpret this law as it stands. If the language plainly admits of but one meaning, we have no right to adopt any other on the ground that it works a hardship on importers or manufacturers, or is otherwise prejudicial to the public good. Congress must be presumed to intend what the language of the law imports, and if the meaning of that language is plain and obvious, then there is no room for construction. The law (in paragraph 384) unquestionably enumerates the hair of "the goat" by name. The effort is to qualify this by a proviso that such hair must be fit for combing purposes. This construction is based on the idea that the hair of the camel and alpaca is fit for such purposes. It is shown that goat hair is not of this class, but, nevertheless, it is taxed by that distinctive and specific name. To qualify the phrase by the limitation contended for would be to alter the law by mak- ing it speak an intention which does not appear on its face. Moreover, the wools described in the preceding sentence, in the same paragraph, are referred to as li combing wools." Then follows, after the copulative conjunction "also," the enu- meration of " hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, and other like animals." Upon every sound rule of statutory construction the word " combing" can have no application to goat hair. It is further said that the tariff acts of March 2, 1867, and of March 3, 1883, con- tained substantially the same language on this subject as the present law, and that those laws were construed to admit common goat hair free because it was not fit for combing. It is noticeable, however, that both of those acts were rendered ambigu- ous on this subject by prefacing paragraph 528 in the first law, and paragraph 354 in the second, by the words, " class tico, combing wools." Those words do not appear in the present law, having been stricken out. This amendment removes the main ground upon which the earlier Treasury decisions were based, and is therefore sig- nificant of a legislative purpose to remove the ambiguity which gave rise to the rul- ing made in such decisions. The Treasury rulings on the subject, moreover, were conflicting, as will be seen from Treasury decisions 7544 and 7614, made in the year 1886, when goat hair was expressly held to be dutiable as such, because it was spe- cially enumerated. With this conflict in the rulings of the Department, we feel impelled to interpret the law to mean what it plainly says, that goat hair is dutia- ble at 12 cents per pound, although it is not fit for combing purposes. We are referred to an opinion of Attorney-General Garland on this subject, dated January 15, 1887, construing paragraph 354 of the act of March 3, 1883, relating to what was there designated as " class 2, combing wools." It was assumed errone- ously in that opinion that the phrase " hair of the alpaca, goat, and other like ani- mals," meant the hair of the "alpaca goat and other like animals." There is no such animal recognized by zoologists in the animal kingdom as an "alpaca goat." The alpaca is a well known wool-bearing animal of the camel genus, otherwise called llama, being " a native of the lofty table lands and mountain ranges of the Andes in Peru and Chile." (Encyc. Brit., vol. 1, p. 597.) The Attorney-General's opinion was based on two ideas: (1) That class 2 embraced only " combing wools; " and (2) that the word goat was " qualified and limited by the specific word alpaca." The new law has been amended so as to no longer leave any pretext for such an interpretation. The designation of class 2 as "combing wools " has been entirely erased, and the last clause of the paragraph now reads, " camel, goat, alpaca, and 220 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. other like animals." The word ".camel" is thus inserted, and the word "goat" is transposed so as to precede "alpaca." The manifest purpose of these changes in phraseology was to remove all supposed ambiguity on the subject. The argument that this construction will operate as an absolute prohibition against all future importations of the article is one addressed rather to Congress than to the courts. The decision of the collector must be affirmed. (±0727 — Gr. A. 280.) New York, January 28, 1891. Wool ring waste. — The merchandise in question is imported and known as "ring waste," or "white ring waste." It is wool of a comparatively superior quality, and was assessed at a duty of 30 cents per pound. The importation was made in April and'May, 1890. The importers contend that at the time the tariff act of March 3, 1883, was passed this ring waste was commercially known as woolen ivaste, and as such it was dutia- ble only at 10 cents per pound, under paragraph 361 of said act (section 2502, U. S. Rev. Stat., Schedule K.), which reads as follows: "Woolen rags, shoddy, mungo, waste, and flocks, 10 cents per pound." It is enough to say that we are satisfied that the merchandise under consideration is known commercially as " woolen waste," and was so known to importers andman- ufacturers at the time the act of March 3, 1883, was passed. This merchandise is shown to be identical in kind and quality with that involved in the case of Muhlhauser v. Gary, collector, recently tried in the U. S. circuit court foi the northern district of Ohio — in fact, a portion of the same purchase and importation. The full record of that trial is before us. The court charged the jury if they were satisfied from the evidence that the merchandise was known to the commercial world as "woolen waste," it was dutiable under paragraph 361, as con- tended by the plaintiffs, and their verdict was for the plaintiffs in that issue. That charge was manifestly correct, and under it, as applied to this case, the appellants are entitled to a decision in their favor. The Treasury practice had uniformly classified " ring waste," like that in question, as woolen waste, under T. I., 361, under the decision made on February 18, 1890 (synopsis 9871), when that practice was changed. It is a strong point favorable to the equity of the importers' claim in this case that they purchased this merchandise on the faith of former decisions, prior to the promulgation of the more recent rul- ing. (Syn. Treas. Dec. 7589.) But we place our decision on the commercial designation of the merchandise. It is known in the trade as " woolen waste," and that fact settles the classification. The decision of the collector is reversed, and he is instructed to reliquidate the entries pursuant to law. (10728 — C A. 281.) New York, February 4, 1891. Wool-knit fabrics, hosiery, and underwear. — The goods in question consist of certain knit hosiery, viz, undershirts and drawers, made on knitting frames, and of the material of wool. The articles were classified and assessed for duty, under paragraph 396 of the tariff act of October 1,1890, as articles of " wearing apparel" made of wool and "not specially provided for 99 in that act. The importers contend that the goods are commercially known to the trade as "knit fabrics," and, being made on knitting frames, are specially provided for by that designation in paragraph 392 of said tariif act, and that they should be classi- ked and assessed accordingly. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 221 Paragraph 396, under which 1he collector made the classification, describes the articles intended to be assessed thereunder as " clothing, ready made, and articles of wearing apparel of every description,- made up or manufactured wholly or in part, not specially provided for in this act, * * * composed wholly or in part of wool (or) worsted." The corresponding paragraph (T. I., 366) in the act of March 3, 1883, contained substantially the same language, but " knit goods" were in terms excepted from the provisions. Paragraph 392 of the new tariff law, under which the importers claim the goods to fall, applies to " woolen or worsted cloths, shaws, knit fabrics, and all fabrics made on knitting machines or frames, * * * made wholly or in part of wool (or) worsted * * * not specially provided for " in that act. This paragraph is con- densed in part from paragraphs 362 and 363 (tariff index) of the act of March, 1883, the former of which embraced " woolen cloths, woolen shawls, and all manufac- tures of wool of every description," and the latter " flannels, blankets, hats of wool, knit goods, and all goods made on knitting frames, * * * composed wholly or in part of worsted," etc. The phrase, "knit fabrics" has thus been substituted for the words "knit goods." The words " wearing apparel " are not words of technical but of popular signi- fication. They indicate the use for which an article is designed, and to which it is ordinarily put, rather than the specific name by which it is known. They have no peculiar mercantile or commercial signification, being " a general description or genus comprehending many species. " In Maillard v. Lawrence, 16 How. (U. S.), 251, the Supreme Court of the United States, taking this view of the law, held that a shawl was an article of wearing apparel, and dutiable as such, although many mer- cantile men testified that it was not so regarded in the trade. The common knowl- edge of the court was invoked to the contrary — that the established and popular import of the words "wearing apparel" included shawls. There is just as little doubt, it may be admitted, that the articles under consideration — knit undershirts and drawers— are wearing apparel. Such articles would be admitted as free of duty as such, under paragraph 752 of the free list, if accompanying and in use by a pas- senger arriving in this country from abroad, as readily as his coat, his vest, or panta- loons would be. So they would be free from execution under a law exempting " wearing apparel" from sale under legal process, as is done in most of the Ameri- can States. But they are also "knit fabrics," or " fabrics made on knitting machines or frames." Are they to be construed as being "specially provided for" by this designation, so as to be excepted from the general description of " clothing, ready made, and articles of wearing apparel of every description," as used in paragraph 396? It may be argued that the amendment of the old law, which excepted "knit goods" from the words wearing apparel, made of wool or worsted, effected by strik- ing out the exception, indicates an intention to change the law on this subject. It is answered by the importers that this exception was superfluous and unnecessary, and the silk schedule is cited, where paragraph 413 speaks of " clothing, ready made, and articles of wearing apparel of every description, including knit goods." Con- gress, it is said, found it necessary here to bring knit goods into the category of wearing apparel by so declaring in terms. As the law now stands, therefore, the apparent inference is that the lawmakers did not suppose that knit goods would have been dutiable as wearing apparel, unless it had been so provided in terms. The mere change of language in the revision of statutes by the omission of words is not significant of any change of legislative intention where such words were superfluous or might be implied by fair construction. (Endlich on Stat., sees. 378- 383.) We next inquire the meaning of the phrase "knit fabrics, and all fabrics made on knitting machines or frames," as used in paragraph 392. Is it more or less specific than " wearing apparel ? " " Knitting is the art of forming looped fabrics or textures 222 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. with the use of needles and a single continuous thread." (Encyclopedia Britannica, vol. 14, p. 127.) A fabric is "that which is fabricated," and to fabricate is "to form by art and labor; to manufacture." (Webster's Dictionary.) The phrase "knitted fabrics" seems to be one of commercial designation, and if such be the case, or the phrase be one of more minute description, it must be held to predominate over descriptive words of a generic character. Robertson v. Salomon, 130 U. S., 412 ; Arthur v. Lahey, 96 U. S., 112.) In Spon's Encyclopedia of Manufactures (1882), vol. 2, pp. 1186- 1189, we find the history of " knitted fabrics — hosiery," given under that nomenclature at great length, and showing the growth of this industry for the past two centuries, and of knitting or hosiery machinery, especially in the last fifty years. The word "fabric" is uniformly used there to designate not only socks and stockings, but shirts, drawers, and various other articles produced by the art of knitting, which may be classed as hosiery as well as piece goods. Advertisements by the trade are seen every day in the public press, and are produced before us, of "wool, knit fabrics, comprising socks, stockings, gloves, mitts, jackets, Swiss ribbed vests, and drawers," etc. A number of witnesses also testified to the fact that the term under consideration is one of well-known commercial meaning in the trade. The following phrases have been held by the courts to have commercial designation among traders and importers sufficient to fix their classification specifically as belonging to a named class of mer- chandise : " Silk laces " and "thread laces " (Arthur v. Lahey, 96 U. S., 112) ; "Japan leather" (Morris v. Arthur, 95 U. S., 144); "merino goods" (Greenleaf v. Worth- ington, 26 Fed. Rep., 303). Whether the descriptive name under consideration (paragraph 392) be a commer- cial designation or not, it is more narrow and specific than the common one of wear- ing apparel, where the use of the article determines the classification. It ex vi ter- mini withdraws knit fabrics, or hosiery made on knitting frames or machines, as these fabrics are, of every kind from the category of clothing, ready made, or wear- ing apparel, by the special provision made therefor in paragraph 392 of the tariff law of October 1, 1890. The suggestion that the words knit fabrics derives color of meaning from the ante- cedent word "cloths" is without force. It is equally associated with the word u shawls," which is known to be wearing apparel. The evidence before us shows that the percentage of knit fabrics which comes from abroad, outside of hosiery — such as stockings, socks, gloves, shirts, and drawers, and other wearing apparel — is comparatively insignificant. If the question under consideration were doubtful, we would be compelled, under established rules of construction, to give the benefit of that doubt to the importers. We accordingly hold that the merchandise in question should have been classified as contended by the importers, under paragraph 392 and not paragraph 396 of the present tariff law. The decision of the collector is reversed, and he will proceed to reliquidate the entry in the manner and time prescribed by law. ( 10736 — O. A. 2 §9 a.) New York, February 4, 1891. Sheepskin mats. — The appraiser returned the merchandise for duty "as a man- ufacture of wool and flax, costiug over 40 cents a pound, at 44 cents per pound and 50 per cent ad valorem, under the act of 1890, paragraph 392." The collector states in his report: "This office does not concur in the opinion expressed by the appraiser in regard to these goods, for the reason that the wool in this case has not been manufactured, but has only been dressed in a manner similar to the dressing of other fur skins; nor does there appear to be any restriction as to a Reversed by 13888— (Gr. A. 2041). WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 223 the character of articles manufactured of fur, provided for in T. I., 461. In order to bring the question before the honorable Board of General Appraisers this office affirms the assessment of duty n as returned by the appraiser. Appellants claim that the rate should be 50 per cent as a wool mat, paragraph 408, or 35 per cent as a manufacture of fur, paragraph 461. The goods in question are mats or rugs made of dressed skins with the wool on. Some of the mats are made of one skin trimmed to the proper shape, while in other cases several skins are sewed together. The wool has been dressed and in some instances dyed. The merchandise can not be classified under paragraph 408, as that paragraph applies only to mats that are portions of carpets or carpeting. The claim for classification as a manufacture of fur has received serious consider- ation in view of the fact that there is no special provision in the tariff for manufac- tures of sheepskins; that certain lambskins are commercially known as furs and have long been classified as furs by the Department, and as in the present case the merchandise is similar in material, quality, texture, and the use to which it may be applied to rugs made of fur. But sheepskins are not furs, and the similitude clause can not be invoked unless there is no special provision in the tariff that would cover the merchandise in ques- tion. Paragraph 392 provides for " all manufactures of every description made wholly or in part of wool." In the mats under consideration wool is the predominating ele- ment both in quantity and value. It is unnecessary to determine whether the treat- ment to which the wool has been subjected brings it within the category of manu- factured articles. The mat itself is a completed manufactured article, and as it is made in part of wool it was properly classified under paragraph 392. The decision of the collector is therefore affirmed. (10 745-G, A. 298.) New York, February 4, 1891. Ring waste. — The merchandise in this case, as shown by the report of the appraiser, and by the inspection of the same, is what is commonly called "ring waste," which is a refuse material produced in the process of spinning wool. It was assessed for duty at 30 cents per pound, as wool of the first class, under para- graph 356 of the tariff act of March 3, 1883. The importers contend that it is assessable only at 10 cents per pound, under paragraph 361 of said act, as " woolen * *.* waste." We considered this subject very fully in the case of Muhlhauser v. Gary, collector, etc., where the testimony showed that an article of precisely the same kind and quality was commercially known as " woolen waste", in the trade and among manu- facturers. We there cited a decision on the same point made by the circuit court for the northern district of Ohio, between the same parties, involving merchandise of exactly like kind, in which the finding of the jury was to the same effect as that of this board. From the samples before us we decide that the merchandise is " woolen waste," within the meaning of T. I., 361, act of March 3, 1883, and is dutiable at 10 cents per pound. The claim of the appellant is accordingly sustained. (10752 — Cr. A. 305.) New York, February 12, 1891. Carpet wool (act 1883.) — The merchandise in these cases was returned as wool, class 3, under 12 cents per pound in value, and duty was assessed thereon at the rate prescribed by paragraph 359 of the tariff act of March 3, 1883. The importer contends that the article is entitled to free entry under paragraph 224 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 717 of said act, which reads as follows: "Hair, horse, or cattle, and hair of all kinds * * * not specially provided for in this act." We infer that the contention is that the article in question is goat hair and that it is not fit for combing purposes, and for this reason it can not properly he classi- fied under paragraph 354 of said act as the hair of the goat there enumerated. We have held that goat hair, under the new tariff law, is not free of duty, hut taxable as such under the provisions of paragraph 375 of that law. How this would he under the act of March 3, 1883, we need not decide. The samples in these several cases have been examined by competent experts, and the testimony of these witnesses supports the conclusion that the merchandise is not goat hair, or hjir of any kind whatever, but that the samples are all wool of an inferior grade, which comes from a deteriorated sheep, and that this class of wool is used chiefly for making carpets. We decide on the testimony before us that the articles are ivool, and not hair, and that the classification was properly made by the collector under paragraph 355 and assessed under paragraph 359,providing for wool of the third class. The collector's decision in each case is affirmed. ( 107TO— O. A. 323.) New York, February 13, 1891. Woolen " robes" or dress patterns. — The merchandise, as shown by the report of the appraiser, consists of certain manufactures of wool, commonly known as "robes" or " dress patterns," being plain and fancy material put together in sufficient quan- tities to make one dress. They were classified and assessed for duty under paragraph 362 of the tariff act of March 3, 1883, as " woolen cloths * * * and all manu- factures of wool of every description, made wholly or in part of wool, not specially enumerated or provided for " in said act, and valued at above 80 cents per pound. The only contention of the importers is that the goods ought to be classified, under paragraph 366 of said act, as " clothing, ready-made, and wearing apparel of every description, not specially enumerated or provided for in this (said) act * * * composed wholly or in part of wool (or) worsted * * * made up or manufac- tured wholly or in part by the tailor, seamstress, or manufacturer." We think it needs no argument to show that the dress patterns under considera- tion are not wearing apparel, but constitute only the material designed to be used for making such apparel. It is not "made up or manufactured, wholly or in part," as a process of transmutation from cloth into wearing apparel. We decide, there- fore, that it is not wearing apparel or ready-made clothing, within the meaning of paragraph 366, but was properly classified as a woolen cloth, or manufacture of wool, under paragraph 362 of said tariff act of 1883. The uecision of the collector is affirmed. (10781 — G. A. 334.) New York, February 14, 1891. Silk and worsted plushes. — The goods in this case are "plushes" composed, in the language of the appraiser, " of silk in the warp and worsted in the weft." They were returned by him as women's and children's dress goods, composed in part of wool, etc., and valued at above 20 cents a square yard. They were accordingly assessed for duty by the collector at 7 cents a square yard and 40 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 365 of the act of March 3, 1883. Appellants contend in their protest that the goods were entitled to entry, under paragraph 383 of said act, at 50 per/cent ad valorem, on the ground that they are composed of silk, or that silk is the component material of chief value therein. On this issue — whether, in fact, silk is the component material of chief value in the goods subject of appeal — appellants were duly notified to appear and offer evidence in support of the verity of their contention, which they failed to do. The board WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 225 therefore finds, as matter of fact, in accordance with the return of the appraiser, that silk is not the component material of chief value in the goods, and hence, as matter of law, that the classification thereof, and assessment of duty thereon, as made hy the collector, was correct, and his decision is therefore affirmed. (See decision of this hoard, G. A. 64, under date of October 17, 1890.) ( 10782— G. A. 335.) New York, February 17, 1891, Cotton and wool corsets. — The goods in these cases are women's corsets com- posed of cotton and wool. The appraiser's return is in part as follows: "The mer- chandise consists of ladies' corsets, manufactured from black Italian cloth, which is composed of cotton and wool." He accordingly returned it as wool wearing apparel, and the collector so classified it under paragraph 396 of the act of Octoher 1, 1890, assessing duty thereon at 49^ cents a pound and 60 per cent ad valorem. Appellants claim, in their protest, that the merchandise was entitled to entry at 40 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 355 of said act, as a " manufacture of cotton not specially provided for. 7 ' But they admit that wool is a significant feature thereof in the following language: "Cotton being the article of chief value entering into the manufacture of same, and that the wool contained in them, or in such of them as may he partly composed of wool, is the material of least value, the proportion in value of the wool contained in the same being very small," etc. This admission disposes of the only issue in the case, since it is not denied that corsets are "wearing apparel," nor is it denied that the corsets subject of appeal are partly composed of wool; hence the contention of appellants that they should be classified as "manufactures of cotton not specially provided for" under para- graph 355 becomes untenable. We therefore find that the facts in the record, as stated in the return of the appraiser, and in the report of the collector, are true, and that the contentions of the protest are not true in fact, or well taken in law. The decision of the collector is affirmed. (10792 — G. A. 345.) New York, February 21, 1891. Hats of wool (act of 1883.)— The merchandise in this case consists of hats, manu- factured from wool costing less than 30 cents per pound. They were assessed under paragraph 363 of the tariff act of 1883 at the rate of 10 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem, that paragraph including, among other articles enumerated, "hats of wool." It is contended that the goods should be assessed, under paragraph 400 of said act, which reads as follows : 400. Bonnets, hats, and hoods for men, women, and children, composed of chip, grass, palm-leaf, willow, or straw, or any other vegetable substance, hair, whale- bone, or other material not specially enumerated or provided for in this act, 30 per centum ad valorem. As the hats in question are made of wool, and not of the component materials enumerated in paragraph 400, they were properly assessed under said paragraph 363. The decision of the collector is accordingly affirmed. (10799 — G. A. 352.) Tkeasury Department, March 9, 1891. Wool-knit underwear. — I have to inform you that, under date of the 27th ultimo, the collector of customs at New York was advised that the Department had decided to appeal for a review of the decision of the Board of General Appraisers as to the classification of wool-knit goods. (G. A. 289, of February 4, 1891.) H. Mis. 94 15 226 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. You will therefore disregard said decision, and classify woolen underwear under the provisions for wearing apparel in paragraph 396, act of October 1, 1890, until the question at issue is judicially determined. (1081 K •) New York, February 25, 1891. Wool caps. — The goods under consideration are felt caps, made of wool, in whole or in part. They were classified under paragraph 396 of the new tariff act of Octo- ber 1, 1890, which provides for a certain duty on " clothing, ready made, and articles of wearing apparel of every description, made up or manufactured, wholly or in part, not specially provided for in this act, * * * composed wholly or in part of wool," etc. The only contention raised by the protest is that the goods should he classified and assessed as "hats of wool," under the provisions of paragraph 393 of said tariff act. The ground of this insistence is that while " caps" are not enumerated in the tariff law by name, they are similar to "hats" in material and the use to which they are applied, and should be so classified, under the provisions of section 5 of the new tariff law, corresponding to section 2499 of the Revised Statutes and known as the similitude clause. A full answer to this contention is that this section applies only to nonenumerated articles, and the description of an article as "wearing apparel " is sufficient to take it out of the operation of said section, and to place it among the enumerated arti- cles. A cap is defined by Webster as "a part of the dress, made to cover the head." It is undoubtedly an article of wearing apparel, made. of wool, within the meaning of paragraph 396 of said act, and not being any where more specifically provided for, the classification was correct. The Treasury decisions, upon which the custom- house practice is based, have* always made a marked distinction between " hats " and "caps," and this difference between the two words is fully recognized in common parlance. .The decision is affirmed. (lO§60— G. A, 355.) New York, February 26, 1891. • Mufflers. — The goods in question are stated by the appraiser to be "wool muf- flers for the neck," and were returned for duty under the provisions of paragraph 396 of the new tariff act of October 1, 1890, as "wearing apparel," manufactured wholly or in part of wool. The appellants contend that the articles are "shawls," made wholly or in part of wool, or worsted, within the meaning of paragraph 392 of said act. A muffler is a covering for the face, a wrapper used to envelope the head or neck. A shawl is a loose covering for the neck and shoulders. It is often very difficult to distinguish one of these from the other, but the line of deraarkation must necessa- rily be drawn in the chief use to which the given article is put. Shawls are enu- merated in the tariff act eo nomine, mufflers are not. The sample of the merchandise before us is of woolen or worsted, about 1 yard square, dyed black, with a border of bright-colored flowers running all around it, about 3 inches from the edge. The texture of the fabric is rather sleazy, and it is without the usual fringe found in shawls. In our opinion its chief use is as a covering for the head or neck, not for the shoulders, and the classification of the article as wearing apparel, under paragraph 396, was correct. The collector's decision is affirmed. (10864L— G. A. 359.) WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 227 New York, February 28, 1891. Wool grease or degras. — Duty was assessed upon certain grease at one-half of 1 cent per pound, under paragraph 316, act October 1, 1890. The appellant claims the merchandise is free of duty, under paragragh 599, as grease u such as is com- monly used for stuffing or dressing leather/ 7 and that it is " sold and used only for said purpose/ 7 A sample was submitted to the United States chemist at this p>ort for analysis, who reports that it is " wool grease," or " degras/ 7 and we so find. Although the article may be, as alleged, such as is commonly used for stuffing or dressing leather, paragraph 599 only provides for such as is not specially provided for elseAvhere in the act. Wool grease and degras are provided for by name in para- graph 316. Therefore the assessment of duty thereon at one-half of 1 cent per pound was, in our opinion, correct and is affirmed. (10 8^8 — A. 373.) New York, March 4, 1891. Pile fabrics — Slipper patterns. — The merchandise in question is slipper pat- terns made from a fabric resembling Brussels carpet. The warp and filling of the body or back is of cotton and the looped warp or outer surface is of wool. The figured designs upon the patterns, which are formed by the wool warp, are colored flowers and leaves upon a black background. Duty was assessed upon the mer- chandise at the rate applicable to pile fabrics composed wholly or in part of wool or worsted under the provisions of paragraph 396, act of October 1, 1890. The appellants claim the goods are not pile fabrics and that duty should have been assessed thereon at 44 cents per pound and 50 per cent ad valorem, under N. T., 392. Pile fabrics are described in standard works as "textures woven with a loop or otherwise raised surface. 77 Looped pile is any fabric in which the woven loop remains uncut, as in Brussels and tapestry carpets and Terry velvets. When these loops are cut in the finished texture then the material is a cut pile * * * . For ordinary loop and cut pile fabrics, two warps are required, etc. It appears from an examination of samples of the fabrics upon appeal that they have a raised surface, w r hich is formed by an extra warp the loops of which are cut. The testimony we have is to the effect that these slipper patterns are known to the trade as pile fabrics, and we so find. The assessment of duty is accordingly affirmed. — (10895. — O. A. 390.) . Treasury Department, April 29, 1891. Refunds on worsted cloths, — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 14th instant, in which you request to be informed whether the Department has acquiesced in the decision of the court in regard to the classification of worsted cloths, and whether it has authorized a refund of duties paid in excess on such mer- chandise. In reply, I have to state that, on the 31st of December last, the Department ad- dressed a letter to the collector of customs at New York (a copy of which is here- with inclosed), authorizing him, under the mandate of the Supreme Court in the case of Magone v. Julius Ballin et al., and on due entry of judgment, to take the neces- sary steps for its settlement, and also to take steps for the settlement of other similar suits now pending where the requirements of law as to protest, appeal, institution of suit, etc., have been fully complied with. (1101 1.) [Letter above referred to.] Treasury Department, December 31, 1890. Sir: The Department is in receipt of a letter from the Attorney-General, dated the 26th instant, in which he states that, in view of tbe decision of the United 228 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. States Supreme Court in the case of Anthony F. Seeberger, collector, etc., v. Ber- nard Cohn et al., which held that "though worsted is doubtless a product of wool, in some aspects, be considered a manufacture of wool, yet, manufactures of worsted being subjected by the second paragraph (T. I., 363) to different duties from those imposed by the first paragraph (T. I., 362) on manufactures of wool, it necessarily fol- lows that a manufacturer of worsted can not be considered as a manufa cturer of wool within the meaning of this statute " (act of March 3, 1883), the writ of error in the case of Daniel Magone, collector, etc., v. Julius Ballin et al., involving the question as to the classification of worsted diagonals, suitings, coatings, etc., (synopsis 9400), can not be sustained, and will be dismissed, inasmuch as the jury found in said case that the merchandise was exclusively of worsted. You are therefore authorized, on due entry of judgment in said suit in the circuit court under the mandate of the Supreme Court, to take the necessary steps for its settlement, and also to take the same steps with reference to all other similar suits now pending, where the requirements of law as to protest, appeal, institution of suit, etc., have been fully complied with. This decision will apply only to importations of worsted cloths made prior to the passage of the act of May 9, 1890 (synopsis 10020). Respectfully, yours, William Windom, Secretary. Collector of Customs, New York, Treasury Department, April SO, 1891. Women's and children's dress goods. — I transmit herewith a copy of the decision of the Supreme Court of the United States in the suit, No. 880, October term, 1890, of Daniel Magone, collector, etc., plaintiff in error v. Edward Luckemeyer, Carl Shefer, and William Schramm, which, it will be seen, is in favor of the conten- tion of the defendants in error, as maintained in the lower court, that certain women's and children's dress goods weighing under 4 ounces per square yard, imported under the tariff act of March 3, 1883, composed of wool with a slight admixture, ranging from 2 to 5 per cent, of cotton, which was spun with the wool in the same yarn, were dutiable at the rate of 5 cents per square yard and 35 per cent ad valorem, under the first portion of paragraph 365 of Schedule K of the act of March 3, 1883, which covers dress goods composed in part of wool, worsted, hair, etc. Upon due entry of judgment in the lower court under the mandate of the Supreme Court in said suit, you are hereby directed to take the necessary steps for its settle- ment by forwarding the usual certified statement for the consideration of the Department. Similar action may also be taken with regard to any other like suits now pending at your port, provided that upon investigation it is found that the requirements of laws as to protest, appeal, institution of suit, etc., were duly com- plied with. (11613.) New York, April 22, 1891. Plushes (1883). — We find the following facts in this case: (1) The goods are plushes composed of cotton, worsted and silk; (2) the appraiser returned them as wool flannel, costing over 80 cents a pound, and (3) the collector classified them at 35 cents a pound and 40 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 363 of the act of March 3, 1883. Appellants protested, contending that in all the goods silk is the component material of chief value, and hence that they are entitled to entry at 50 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 383 of said act. A hearing was granted to said appellants, and one of them appeared with counsel and gave evidence. Interrogated as to the foreign market value of the goods he swore 1hey cost 15 pence a yard. Asked as to the value of similar goods without the silk stripe, he said they would be worth from 9 pence to 9 pence half penny. An examination of the invoice shows that the goods subject of appeal are in fact invoiced at from 7-J- pence to 18-J pence a yard, a very large proportion of the goods falling below the value line of 15 pence. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 229 A quantitative analysis (with samples) of the goods found among the papers shows that in numbers 1 and 4 silk, as claimed in the protest, the component material of chief value, and in numbers 2, 3, 5, and 6 worsted is the component material of chief value. Following the rule of interpretation laid down in the Hartranft case, 135 U. S. S. C, 235, as we did in decision G. A. 261, the protest is sustained as to the goods cov- ered by quantitative analysis report numbers 1 and 4, and the collector's decision is sustained as to the goods covered by quantitative analysis report numbers 2, 3, 5, and 6. The entry will bo reliquidated accordingly. (11073 — O. A. 516*) New York, April 25, 1891. Worsted dress goods. — The goods in question are textile fabrics, 3^ inches in width, composed in part of wool or worsted. They are valued at above 50 cents per pound and weigh less than 4 ounces per square yard. We find from an examina- tion of the sample representing the merchandise that the warp is composed of cot- ton and silk in the proportion of about seven parts cotton and one part silk. The weft or filling is exclusively of wool or worsted and constitutes the component material of chief value of the goods. Duty was assessed at 12 cents per square yard and 50 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 395, act of October 1, 1890. The appellants claim that the merchandise is cotton warp wool flannels and cotton warp wool dress goods, valued at above 15 cents per square yard, and that duty should have been assessed upon the same at 8 cents per square yard and 50 per cent ad valo- rem, under the provisions of paragraph 394 of said act. It is not contended that any portion of the merchandise is " flannels for underwear," and as its cost is above 50 cents per pound, it is excluded from paragraph by the terms thereof, and is dutiable as women's or children's dress goods or goods of similar character and description. Paragraph 394 provides for merchandise "of which the warp consists wholly of cot- ton or other vegetable material, with the remainder of the fabric composed wholly or in part of wool, worsted," etc. The warp of the merchandise in question is not composed wholly of cotton. It is composed in part of silk — in fact, the silk is of more value than the cotton — aud as silk is not a vegetable substance, the claim of the importers must be rejected. It is thought proper to invite attention to the fact that paragraph 348 imposes a higher rate of duty on cotton goods containing an admixture of silk than it is claimed by the appellants the goods in question are subject, and to which they would be liable if the warp Avas all cotton or other vegetable substance. The mer- chandise in question clearly falls within the provisions of paragraph 395, and the action of the collector is affirmed. (11086— G« A. 529.) New York, May 8, 1891. Worsted moreens (1883). — The evidence in this case tends to show that the mer- chandise in question is a worsted fabric, popularly known as " moreen. " It is used for covering pew cushions and for upholstery purposes generally, also in making ladies' skirts. Duty was assessed upon it at 35 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem, under T. I., 362 (act March 3, 1883), as a manufacture of wool, valued at not exceeding 80 cents per pound. The appellants claim that the goods are dutiable at 18 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem, under the provision in T. I., 363, for manufactures of worsted not specially provided for, valued at above 40 cents per pound and not exceeding 60 cents per pound. From an inspection of the official samples we find that the merchandise is a coarse fabric, 24 inches in width, composed of so-called "worsted" in the warp and weft, the one surface being glossy and smooth 230 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. and the other finished to resemble in appearance and to the touch mohair or poplin with a worsted design. The analytical chemist in charge of the United States laboratory at this port reported that the merchandise was composed of combed wool known as " worsted," and the testimony of experts who were called before us was to the effect that it is not what is commonly or commercially known as a worsted cloth, but is commonly known in the trade as worsted "moreen," and it partakes of the nature of dress goods rather than cloth. We so find the facts, and hold that the article is not covered by the act of May 9, 1890, but is dutiable under T. I., 363, as claimed by the appellants. This ruling is in harmony with the decision of the Treasury Department in synopsis 10078. (1 1218— G. A. 577.) New York, May 9, 1891. Charges emballeur — The merchandise consists of 996 bales of third-class wool, which was entered for warehouse October 14. The wool was valued at over 13 cents per pound by the appraiser, and was assessed for duty accordingly at 50 per cent, under paragraph 386, N. T. The sum of 332 francs invoiced as " emballeur 99 was considered a dutiable charge in estimating the value of the wool. The appellant protests, first, against the inclusion of 332 francs as a dutiable charge, claiming that "emballeur" is simply the opening and closing of each bale for examination subsequent to the purchase of the goods in a condition packed ready for shipment; and, second, against the liquidation of the invoice as based on the weights taken at the time of the arrival of the goods, claiming that under section 50, duty should be levied upon a basis of the weight of the merchandise at the time of its withdrawal from warehouse. Section 19 of the act of June 10, 1890, provides that when merchandise is subjected to an ad valorem duty, the duty shall be assessed upon the actual market value or wholesale price of such merchandise as bought and sold in usual wholesale quanti- ties, in the condition in which such merchandise is bought and sold for exportation, including all costs, charges, and expenses incident to placing the merchandise in condition packed ready for shipment to the United States. The dutiable charges are not limited by this section to such as attach to the merchandise previous to its sale and delivery. After the merchandise has been purchased in the condition in which such merchandise is bought and sold for exportation to the United States, any further expense incurred by the purchaser incident to placing it in condition packed ready for shipment is dutiable. The expense of sewing up the bales after they have been cut open for examination is an incident to placing the merchandise in condition for shipment and the importers' claim on this point can not, therefore, be sustained. In regard to the second claim of the importer, the board is of the opinion that the phrase " duties based upon the weight of merchandise/ 7 used in section 50, does not describe goods which pay an ad valorem duty that is clearly based upon the value of goods in a foreign country and not upon their weight in the United States. The rate of duty on the merchandise in the present case is determined by the market value of wool per pound in Marseilles. This is in harmony with Department decis- ion, synopsis 1044. The decision ot the collector is affirmed. (11226— O. A. 5 §5.) New York, May 23, 1891. Nuns' veils. — The importers in their notice of dissatisfaction say: "We hereby protest against the assessment and payment of duty at the rate of 49^ cents per pound and 60 per cent ad valorem, charged on two items of 100 bordered nun's veil- ings," * * * claiming that the merchandise above mentioned is dutiable at the rate of 44 cents per pound and 50 per cent ad valorem only, under the provisions in Schedule K, paragraph 392, of the tariff act of October 1, 1890. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 231 The appraiser reported that "the merchandise consisted of a manufacture of wool into what is known commercially as 'nuns' veils/ which are used for mourning pur- poses." Duty was assessed thereon, under the provisions in paragraph 396, N, T., for "articles of wearing apparel," etc. It appears from the invoice that the merchandise covered by the protest was desig- nated therein as 38 nuns' veils. Mr. Francis Loeb, of the appraisers' department, who examined and passed the same, testified before us that the goods in question consisted of completed wool garments having hemmed borders, and are commer- cially known as "nuns' veils." The importers were accorded an opportunity to be heard by the board in support of their contention. They having failed to appear and to present any evidence at the time designated, we find the facts to be as stated by the appraiser, and affirm the action of the collector. ( 1 1244 — O. A., 603.) Treasury Department, June 1, 1891. Worsted bindings and galloons. — The Department is in receipt of a letter from the United States Attorney-General, dated the 15th ultimo, in which he notifies the Department of the dismissal of the case of Robertson v. Weddigen, No. 85 on the docket of the Supreme Co*irt. The case in question, it appears, involved the classification of certain worsted bindings and galloons, woven in the loom, which were imported on December 18, 1882, and were classified as dutiable at the rate of 60 cents per pound and 50 per cent ad valorem, under the provisions in Schedule L, section 2504, Revised Statutes, for " webbings, beltings, bindings, braids, galloons, fringes, gimps, cords, cords and tassels, dress trimmings, head-nets, buttons, or barrel buttons, or buttons of other forms, for tassels or ornaments, wrought by hand or braided by machinery, made of wool, worsted, or mohair, or of which wool, worsted, or mohair is a component material." The importers claimed that the proper rate of duty upon the goods in question was 50 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem, under the clause in the same schedule beginning with the words "flannels, blankets, hats of wool," etc. The question involved in said case was as to whether the term " wrought by hand or braided by machinery" contained in said clause qualified the various articles specified therein, or was limited to the articles last mentioned, viz, "buttons or barrel buttons, or buttons of other forms, for tassels or ornaments." On the trial of the case, it was shown that webbing, belting, bindings, and gal- loons were made indiscriminately by the weaving or braiding processes, and that the terms were not distinctly-defined trade terms, but that several of the articles were known to the trade by either of two or more of these terms, and that the bindings and galloons covered by the suit were in fact woven in the loom, and the verdict supported the contention ot the importers that the clause provided only for bindings and galloons which were wrought by hand or braided by machinery. The Attorney-General states that, as the question involved was a question of fact only as to whether either webbings, bindings, or galloons were always woven and never wrought by hand or braided by machinery, it was not deemed proper to invite the attention of the court to the case. In view of this action on the part of the Attorney-General, you are hereby author- ized, on due entry of judgment in said case, to take the necessary steps for its settlement and payment, and to take the same course with respect to all other cases pending at your port in which the requirements of law as to protest, appeal, insti- tution of suit, etc., have been fully complied with. (1124.) Treasury Department, June 20, 1891. Wool, Canadian pulled.— Referring to your letter of March 13 last, in regard to the proper classification of Canadian pulled wool, which is obtained by first wash- 232 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. ing the wool on the pelt, and then pulling it, and to Department's reply of April 1 last, in which you were advised of the practice prevailing at New York on the impor- tation of such wool, I have to inform you that upon further investigation the Depart- ment is of the opinion that if, upon examination the wool in question is found to have heen subjected to no other cleansing process than washing on the skin with water, it is practically the same as if washed with water on the sheep's back, and should be classified as washed wool. If, however, it is found to have been subjected to other or further process of cleansing, it should be classified as scoured wool. ( 11297*) Treasury Department, June 23, 1891. Sorted wools of third class. — Referring to previous correspondence, and more especially to your letter of the 6th ultimo, relative to the assessment of a double duty on sorted wools of the third class, I have to inform you that according to a report obtained from the collector of customs at New York, an entry of such wool was liquidated by simply doubling the amount of duty assessed on the value stated in the invoice and returned by the appraiser as correct. This mode of reaching the amount of the double duty imposed by paragraph 383, N. T., is deemed to be both practicable and consistent with the intent of the law, and should be adopted in all similar cases, until a final adjudication of the protest filed by the importers in the above-mentioned case against the decision of the collector at New York. (11307.) (a). New York, May 29, 1891. Pile fabrics — Moquettes. — One bale of moquette or velvet, imported by the protestants into the port of Boston per steamer Michigan, October 28, 1890, was classified for duty, under paragraph 396, N. T., as a pile fabric composed wholly or in part of wool, worsted, the hair of the goat or other animal, and duty was levied thereon at 49£ cents per pound and 60 per cent ad valorem. The protestants claim that the fabric is moquette carpeting, subject to duty at 60 cents per square yard and 40 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 399, N. T. This article is similar to moquette carpeting in material, texture, and appearance, but woven into a fabric of very much lighter weight. It is made to order 81 inches wide for upholstery pur- poses, and is not used or designed to be used for carpeting. We find that the merchandise the subject of this protest is a pile fabric composed chiefly of wool, worsted, or the hair of the goat ; that it is manufactured and used for upholstery purposes, and is not carpeting. Upon these findings we must overrule the protest. The action of the collector is affirmed. The protest filed by same importer, No. 3740&, raising the same points concerning other moquettes, does not appear to have been filed within ten days after liquida- tion and as required by section 14 of the act of June 10, 1890 ; and can not therefore be entertained. (11315— G. A., 628.) New York, June 2, 1891. Sheepskins with the wool on. — The protestants imported into the port of New York, March 16, 1891, by the Etruriu, sundry bales of cape sheepskins, and the col- lector levied duty upon the quantity of wool on the skins and at a value ascertained and returned by the appraiser. The protestants claim in their protest that there was substantially nothing but hair upon the skins and that the value thereof was much less than the amount returned, The objection to the value as returned by the appraising officer involves a question of reappraisement, and as no irregularity is alleged, the subject is only cognizable on appeal for a reappraisement. a Modified by No. mGS. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 233 An inspection of sample skins and the testimony of numerous witnesses proves conclusively that the fleece upon the skins is a mixture of wool and hair, which when pulled or sheared has a known market value and is classed by dealers as a low medium to a coarse quality. It also appears that the estimate of quantity waa fairly made with a liberal allowance in the importer's favor. We find that the appraising officer ascertained the quantity of wool on the skins above mentioned to be 1,000 pounds and the value thereof to be less than 13 cents per pound, and that said quantity and value was ascertained by him in accordance with the rules prescribed by the Secretary of the Treasury, and that the same were correctly ascertained. We also find that the collector classified said wool as of the third class and valued at less than 13 cents per pound, levying duty thereon at 32 per cent ad valorem, under the provisions of paragraph 385, N. T. Upon these findings, we hold that the contentions in this protest can not be sustained. The protest is overruled and the action of the collector is affirmed. (1 135*7 — O. A., 640.) New York, June 11, 1891. Endless felts and jackets for printing machines. — In the present case the merchandise is invoiced as jackets, jacketing, and press felt, upon which the col- lector assessed duty at 44 cents per pound and 50 per cent ad valorem, under para- graph 392, act of October 1, 1890. The importers claim the goods are blankets, and, as such, are provided for under paragraph 393 of the said act. The appraiser in his report to the collector says: The merchandise in question consists of so-called jackets and jacketing, woven fabrics of wool, cylindriform, in usual diameters of 14 and 18 inches. The use of the article is for covering the so-called " couch rolls" or " metallic rollers " connected with the paper-making machine, through which pulp is passed for purposes of forcing out the water and rendering it compact. The jackets are completed articles, made in suitable sizes for the rolls. The jacketing is similarly made, but in lengths of 50 to 70 feet, to be sold in lengths cut to fit the machine. Samples representing the merchandise in question show the jackets and jacketing to be a woven fabric of wool, about one-fourth of an inch thick, and of great density. The press felt is also a woven fabric of wool, but of less thickness and more flexibility than the jackets or jacketing. At a hearing accorded the protestant importers of similar goods appeared before us and testified relative to the trade designation and use of the articles in question. From the testimony we find the following facts: The articles invoiced as jackets and jacketing are cylindriform woven fabrics composed of wool. They are not known commercially as blankets, but interchangeably as jackets, jacketing, couch-roll covers, and endless felts. The goods invoiced as " press felt" are known to the trade under the names of belts, machine blankets, press blankets, and press felts. They are also of a cylin- drical form, and are woven fabrics composed of wool. Upon this finding, we hold the merchandise was properly classified as a manu- facture of wool not specially provided for, and returned for duty under paragraph 392, N. T. The term " blankets," used in paragraph 393, N. T., is descriptive of a particular class of goods, well known in trade and commerce. The merchandise in question, a portion of which is designated as machine blankets and press blankets, does not, in our opinion, fall within the particular class of goods referred to in paragraph 393. We have reached this conclusion from the evidence of expert witnesses and a care- ful consideration of former tariff legislation. In the act of 1883, T. I., 363, " flannels, blankets, hats of wool, knit goods," etc., were provided for at specified rates of duty, and in T. I., 379, " endless belts or felts for paper or printing machines" were sub- jected to another rate of duty. The same distinction between blankets of wool and 234 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. goods like those in question existed in tariff acts prior to that of 1883, as will be seen by reference to sections 243 and 244, T. I., old. The act of October 1, 1890, provided for blankets of wool, but made no separate provision for belts or felts for paper or printing machines. It follows that the goods in question, which are known as belts or felts for paper or printing machines, not being provided for by name, fall under paragraph 392, N. T., as manufactures of wool not specially provided for. The action of the collector is affirmed. (1 1 381 — O. A. 66 1.) New York, June 11, 1891. Wool on Angora goatskins. — The importers in these cases were notified to appear before this Board on June 5 and show cause, if any, why the decision of the collector should not be sustained. The appellants, Keen, Sutterlee & Co., failed to appear. The appellant in the other two cases, E. R. Lazarus, appeared in person, but offered no evidence other than that found in the papers in the cause. We find, the following facts from the returns of the appraiser and from an inspec- tion of the samples of merchandise : (1) That the goods consist of Angora goatskins, with the hair or wool thereon, valued at 12 cents per pound. (2) That the quantity and value of this hair or wool was ascertained by the appraiser under the rules prescribed for this purpose by the Secretary of the Treas- ury. The merchandise was returned for duty as belonging to wools of the second class, under " Schedule K," paragraph 377, and was assessed accordingly, under paragraph 384 of the new tariff act. (Synor>sis Treasury Decisions 7206.) It is provided by paragraph 387 of said act that " wools on the skin shall pay the same rate as other wools, the quantity and value to be ascertained under such rules as the Secretary of the Treasury may prescribe." A further claim made by the protest, also, is that there is no wool on the skins and that "the hair in the entire lot does not amount to more than 1,500 to 2,000 pounds." The main contention in the case is that the goods are free, under paragraph 605, which puts in the free list * * * "Angora goatskins, ratv, without the wool, unman- ufactured, and skins, except sheepskins, with the wool on." The phrase u wools on the skin," as used in paragraph 387, is a generic one, and must be construed in connection with paragraph 605 of the free list, and the other par- agraphs in pari materia found in " Schedule K, wool and manufactures of wool." The skin of the Angora goat often contains both wool and hair, the line of demarkation between which the best experts find it difficult to pronounce or define. The word " wools" was intended, in our judgment, to include any mixture of wool and hair found on Angora goatskins, both being liable to the same duty and it being imprac- ticable to separate them when in this condition in making an estimate of the rela- tive quantity of each. The question as to the quantity of wool or hair in the skins under consideration is not one of classification or rate of duty, such as may be reviewed by us in protest, but rather of valuation, to be determined by reappraise™ en t, in accordance with the requirements of section 13 of the customs administrative bill, approved June 10, 1890. The decision of the collector is in accordance Avith these views and is affirmed. (11:185— G. A. 6680 New York, June 13, 1891. Worsted dress goods (1883). — We find the following conclusions of fact in these cases : (1) That the goods covered by the several invoices are commercially known as "women's and children's dress goods," and are composed in part of wool or worsted, and were imported prior to October 1, 1890. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 235 (2) That said goods have no selvages or threads made of cotton or any other material than wool or worsted. (3) That said goods contain a percentage of cotton, varying from 2-30 to 5'78 per cent, which was carded in with the wool from which the yarn composing the warp of the goods was spun. Exhibit A, attached to the testimony of the witness, James H. Stebbins, jr., is found to be a correct statement of the amount of cotton, ascer- tained by chemical analysis, to be found in each of the samples furnished, which samples correctly represent the quality and kind of goods under consideration. (4) That the value of said goods per square yard, in each case, is correctly found by the local appraiser, and that they weigh less than 1 ounces to the square yard. Under this state of facts, the cases are brought within the ruling of the United States Supreme Court in the "woolen dress goods" cases recently decided, Seeberger v. Farwell, 11 Sup. Ct. Rep., 650, and Magone v. Luckemeyer, Id., 651. The goods under consideration are of the same kind as those involved in the cases cited. On the authority of those decisions we hold that the goods are " composed in part" of wool or worsted, and in part of cotton, and are dutiable as follows : (1) Those valued at not exceeding 20 cents per square yard, at 5 cents per square yard, and, in addition thereto, 35 per cent ad valorem; and (2) those valued at above 20 cents per square yard, 7 cents per square yard and 40 per cent ad valorem. (Tariff act 1883, para- graph 365.) The decision of the collector in each case is reversed, and he is authorized to reliquidate the duties accordingly. As to the importations covered by protests numbered 187a and 188a, it is made to appear that the goods contain silk as the component material of chief value. They therefore fall within the purview of the decision of the Supreme Court in Hartranft v. Meyer, 135 U. S., 237, and the protests are sustained accordingly. (11391— O. A., <>7<1.) 'STew York, June 19, 1891. Pulled wool dutiable as scourkd. — The report of the appraiser states— and we so lind — that the importation under consideration, which is invoiced as " 10 bales Australian pulled wool/ 7 is Montevideo merino w r ool, and falls under u class 1" (para- graph 376) of the wool schedule of the new tariff act. The duty on such wools, imported in ordinary or unwashed condition, is fixed at 11 cents per pound (para- graph 384). Paragraph 381 of said act provides, however, that " the duty on wools of the first class which shall be imported washed shall be twice the amount of the duty to which they would be subjected if imported unwashed; and the duty on w r ools of the first and second classes which shall be imported scoured shall be three times the duty to which they would be if imported unwashed." A similar provision occurred in paragraph 356 of the tariff act of 1883. The pur- pose of these clauses, as observed by the United States Supreme Court in Arthur v. Paster (109 U. S., 139), was " to vary the amount of duty on wools according to the degree to which a given quantity has been freed, by process of cleansing, from the dirt and foreign matter with which in its unwashed state it is usually found." The act of 1883 did not undertake to define washed and scoured wool, but left these terms open for construction according to the trade designations. The act of October 1, 1890, does define these terms generally in paragraph 382 as follows : Unwashed wools shall be considered such as shall have been shorn from the sheep without any cleansing; that is, in their natural condition. Washed wools shall be considered such as have been washed with water on the sheep's back. Wool washed in any other manner than on the sheep's hack shall he considered as scoured wool. If this wool is washed, and such cleansing is done " in any other manner than on the sheep's back," the law declares it " shall be considered scoured wool." 236 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. The importers make the following admission in their protest : " We claim that this wool is obtained by pulling from the skins or pelts of slaughtered sheep. Said pelts are simply spouted with cold water, so far as any cleansing process relating to the wool is concerned. 77 Their contention is that the legal rate of duty is 22 cents per pound, as a washed wool. Assuming the above admission to be true, the cleansing was clearly done other- wise than on the sheep's back. Hence it must be classified, under said paragraph 382, as "scoured wool," and not as washed, and is subject to three times the rate prescribed for unwashed wool of the first class. The collector correctly assessed the article at 33 cents, and his decision is affirmed. (11400— «. A. 6§3.) Treasury Department, July 1, 1891. Skirted wools. — Referring to a paragraph in a letter addressed by yourself and the Hon. Columbus Delano to the Department, under date of the 1st ultimo, in which you refer to the provision for skirted wools, in paragraph 383, act of October 1. 1890, I have to inform you that the Department, upon inquiry, is advised by the collectors of customs at New York, Philadelphia, and Boston that the following wools, besides Australian wools, were imported skirted prior to the passage of the act of October 1, 1890, viz: Cape of Good Hope wool; French wool; German wool; Russian wool; Spanish wool; Saxony wool; Silesia wool; Montevideo wool; Buenos Ayres wool; Damascus wool ; Smyrna wool; Aleppo wool; Angora wool; Salonica wool ; alpaca, Adrianople, Egyptian, Turkey, and Russian Donskoi combing wools; that English and Irish wools were sold skirted or unskirted at the option of the purchaser, and that Syrian wools were sometimes imported skirted. ( 1 1429.) Treasury Department, July 16, 1891. Samples oe wool used in a suit. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 10th instant, in which you state that George W. Patton, the defendant in the case of the United States v. George W. Patton & Co., against whom a verdict was recovered at the last session of the district court for the eastern district of Pennsyl- vania for $10,887.26, being the amount of duty assessed on two importations of alleged wool waste, has requested that two sample bales held at the appraiser's store in the city of New York, one ex Wyoming and one ex Spain, maybe returned to him so that the same may be used or sold. You report that Mr. Patton has appealed the case to the Supreme Court, w r here it is now pending, and has given ample security for the payment of the whole amount of the Government's claim, with costs of suit, and you state that you see no reason why his request should not be granted, as you have in your possession two adequate samples of the importation which were recognized in the suit which was lately tried, and that as the case will not probably be determined for three or four years, the two sample bales at the end of that time would be of no value to him or any one else. In reply I have to inform you that, in view of the facts stated by you, the Depart- ment sees no objection to the delivery of said bales to their owner, and as they appear to be held by the collector at New York subject to your orders, in view of the pending suit, the necessary instructions should be given by you to that officer (11407.) New York, July 7, 1891. Degras or brown wool gpease. — The merchandise is invoiced as " 60 casks of wool grease," and was imported October 21, 1861. It was returned by the wool WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 237 apx>raiser as " brown wool grease," and was classified by the collector and assessed under paragraph 316 of the new tariff act, the last clause of which reads as follows : "Wool grease including that known commercially as degras or brown wool grease, one-half of 1 cent per pound." The protestants contend that the article is free, under paragraph 599 of the free list, which reads as follows : 599. Grease and oils, such as are commonly used in soap making or in wire draw- ing, or for stuffing or dressing leather, and which are fit only for such uses, not specially provided for in this act. The importers in this case were cited to appear on a day fixed for a hearing of the cause, but made default, and came not by attorney or in person. We have, however, taken the testimony of one witness, who deals in the article under consideration, and he testifies that the sample shown him is, without doubt, " degras" or "brown wool grease," and we so find, in accordance with the return made by the local appraiser. It was formerly held to be classifiable under paragraph 437 of the tariff act of 1883 as "grease, not specially enumerated or provided for, in that act, and was assessed at 10 per cent ad valorem. (Miller v. Seeberger, 44 Fed. Rep., 261.) Under the present law it is specially enumerated by name in paragraph 316, and is therefore excluded from the class of "grease" made free in paragraph 599, although used for the purposes there stated. (G. A. 373.) The collector's decision is affirmed. (11561 — O. A. ^ 36.) New York, July 25, 1891. Silk and wool upholstery goods. — The merchandise covered by the protest in the present case was returned by the appraiser as manufactures of wool costing above 80 cents per pound. Duty was assessed upon the same at 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem, in accordance with the appropriate provision of T. I., new 362. The importer claims that " the merchandise is upholstery goods, com- posed of silk and wool and silk and worsted, respectively, in both of which fabrics silk is the component material of chief value." The board submitted samples of the merchandise to the chemist in charge of the United States laboratory at this port, for quantitative analysis and report as to the relative value of the several component parts thereof. This officer, after recording the result of his analysis, says: "The silk in both samples is of excellent quality, while the wool belongs to a medium grade. If the question of the component of chief value is the object of the analysis, it is evident that silk in the quantity found in each sample constitutes the most expensive material." We find as facts — (1) That the merchandise is composed of silk and wool, and silk, wool, and cooton, respectively. (2) That the goods are manufactures of silk or of which silk is the component material of chief value, and we hold that they are more specifically enumerated and provided for in paragraph 383 (Heyl's Compilation) than elsewhere in the act of March 3, 1883. The protest is sustained. (1 1602— O. A. 798.) New York, July 29, 1891. Astrachaxs.— The merchandise was imported under the tariff act of 1883, and is described in the invoice as gray and black astrachans, which we find to be the proper commercial designation of the goods. They were classified, under paragraph 362 of the act of 1883, as woolen cloth val- ued at not exceeding 80 cents per pound, and assessed for duty at 35 cents per pound 238 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. and 35 per centum ad valorem, the collector deciding that they were covered by the act of May 9, 1890. The collector reports that samples of similar goods were submitted to the confer- ence of local appraisers in October, 1889, who were unanimously of the opinion that the proper classification fell under paragraph 363. An indorsement on the protest from the collector's office calls for a special report in writing descriptive of the goods, but no such report and no samples are forwarded. The appraiser, on the invoice, described the importation as " wool cloth, " and the examiner, who had the goods before him, was of opinion that the astrachan cloth referred to was not removed from the category of worsted, adding that astrachans are generally used for trimming purposes and for ladies' and children's jackets, while the wool cloths are used in the manufacture of men's and boys' clothing. The importers claim that the goods are improperly classified as woolen cloth and should be assessed as manufactures of worsted, under paragraph 363. The Department held, June 20, 1890, in the case where the force of the classifying act of May 9, 1890, was invoked by the appraiser in regard to certain " portieres" or " hangings/ 7 that the term " cloths " has a technical and restricted signification, and can be properly applied only to the thicker and heavier fabrics of wool, which are so finished and close as to be adapted for use by the tailor or clothier in the man- ufacture of garments for men or boys. (Synopsis 10078.) In a case before this board in May last it was held that a worsted fabric known as "moreens," while composed of combed wool known as worsted, is not what is com- mercially known as a worsted cloth, but that it partakes of the nature of dress goods rather than cloth and has a popular and fixed designation. We hold that the act of May 9, 1890, was intended to apply to worsted cloths that assimilate to woolen cloths in quality, texture, and uses, and that astrachans do not so assimilate. They have specific designation and they are not removed from para- graph 363, because they are not recognized as cloths nor are they used for the same purposes as the woolen cloths referred to in paragraph 362. The protest is sustained and a reliquidation is authorized. (HCIS— C*. A. 7S8.) New York, August 6, 1891. Water-proof fabrics. — The special report of the appraiser relative to the goods in question is as follows: The merchandise consists in part of plaid cotton cloth heavily proofed with a preparation of India rubber, cotton chief value, and two different patterns of plaid cotton cloth stuck together with prepared India rubber, making what is known as double texture. In this fabric cotton is also the component material of chief value. Both of the above-described textiles were returned as manufactures of cotton not specially provided for, under paragraph 355, act of October 1, 1890, in accordance with the principles contained in the decision of the United States circuit court in the case of Schneider v. Arthur (Synopsis 4565, June 7, 1880). The importer claims that India rubber is the component of chief value in this merchandise. In his com- putation he has evidently omitted to take into account the adulterations of the India rubber and the chemicals used to soften it so that it could be applied to the cotton cloth. He has omitted to distribute the cost of the labor employed in applying this preparation of India rubber between the components. Adding to the cotton cloth the pro rata proportion of cost of such labor would certainly, to my mind, make cotton chief value. This merchandise resembles cotton cloth more than it does man- ufacture of India rubber. If it resembles equally cotton cloth and manufacture of India rubber, then the assessment should be at the higher or cotton rate, as made; see section 5, act of October 1, 1890. The balance of the merchandise consisted in part of woolen cloth and cotton cloth pasted together with India-rubber preparation, so as to make a double-texture cloth and of two qualities of woolen cloth similarly joined together, which were returned for duty as woolen cloth, under paragraph 392, act of October 1, 1890. Under this paragraph they are more specifically enumerated than under paragraph 460, inas- much as India rubber is not the component material of chief value. This merchant dise is used in the manufacture of water-proof garments, and attention is directed to WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 239 the proviso to paragraph 349 for cotton and India-rubber clothing. I would also invite attention to the provision for " water-proof cloth," contained in paragraph 369. The commercial designation of this merchandise is variously single textures, double textures, " Macintosh cloth," and sometimes " water-proof cloth." The report of the appraiser is given in full, as it contains a description of the mer- chandise and all the points contended for by the Government, relative to the duti- able character thereof. The importer claims that the fabrics contained in parcels 71 and 72, as designated in the invoice, are composed of India rubber and cotton, of which materials India rubber is the greater in value, and that the goods contained in parcels 73 and 74 are composed of India rubber, cotton, and wool, in the first of which fabrics India rub- ber is the component material of chief value, and in the other, although while admit- ting that wool is of more value than India rubber or cotton, it is held that, inasmuch as India rubber is the significant feature of the goods, this substance controls the classification thereof. Based upon the above claim, it is contended by the appellant that duty should have been assessed upon all of the merchandise at 30 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 460, N. T. A representative of the manufacturer of the goods in question appeared before the board and submitted a sworn statement as to the relative value of the different materials entering into the fabrication. Manu- facturers of domestic India-rubber fabrics were also present and testified as to the value of crude India rubber. A quantitative analysis of samples representing the merchandise was, at our request, made by Dr. Baker, connected with the United States laboratory at New York. Based upon this analysis, the amount of pure India rubber found to be contained in the several kinds and qualities of merchandise, when valued at the price per pound fixed by the domestic manufacturers referred to, tends to confirm the statement of the maker of the goods. We therefore find as facts — That the fabrics contained in parcels 71 and 72 are composed of India rubber and cotton, of which materials India rubber is the component of chief value. That the merchandise contained in parcel 73 is composed of India rubber, cotton, and wool, and that India rubber forms the component material of chief value thereof; and that the goods contained in parcel 74 are composed of India rubber, cotton, and wool, and that in these fabrics the wool constitutes the component material of chief value. We further find that the goods are India-rubber fabrics, and are not the water-proof cloth provided for in paragraph 369. We hold that the portion of the merchandise of which India rubber is the component material of chief value is more specifically provided for in paragraph 460, N. T., than elsewhere in the act. The protest is accordingly sustained as to the goods contained in parcels 71, 72, and 73, and the action of the collector is affirmed as to the goods contained in parcel 74, of which wool constitutes the component material of chief value. (IIO'S'O — Cr. A. 504L) New York, August 26, 1891. Scapularies part wool. — * * * Concerning the remainder of the merchandise, an inspection of a sample thereof shows it to be composed of ten pieces of flannel of wool, each piece 2\ inches long and 2 inches wide. There is a division of these pieces into two sets, each set containing five pieces, which are stitched together upon the upper edge thereof, and the sets joined together by two pieces of red woolen braid, the whole forming religious articles of devot ion known as a pair of scapularies. Upon the outer surface of one portion of the scapularies there is stitched a represen- tation of our Saviour's passion, and on the other the sacred heart of Christ, both representations printed on cotton cloth. In G. A. 425 the board held that similar representations printed upon cotton cloth separately imported were dutiable as printed matter. In the present case, however, the printed matter is a portion of a completed article and is merely an incidental feature thereof. 240 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. We find the scapularies are manufactures made wholly or in part of wool. The claim of the importers that duty should have been assessed upon this portion of the merchandise at 25 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 423, N. T., is overruled, and the action of the collector relative thereto affirmed. (11 §42 — I* 5 . A. 833.) New York, August 26, 189f. Russian wool — Paper rubles of Russia. — We find as facts in the present case that on or about the 26th day of September, 1890, there were shipped from Moscow, Russia, 115 bales of class 3 wool, invoiced at 5| paper rubles per pood. Entry was made at the port of Philadelphia on the 20th day of October, 1890. Attached to the invoice is a certificate of the U. S. vice-consul at Moscow to the effect that "the true market value of the currency, paper rubles of Russia, in which currency the invoice of merchandise in question is made out, is 60.15 cents esti- mated in United States gold dollars, as indicated by the latest quotations at St. Petersburg, of sight draft on London, viz, 29§|d. sterling." The action of the collector is set forth in the following official report to the board : The assessment of duty upon the merchandise at 32 per cent ad valorem, as pro- vided in paragraph 385, act of October 1, 1890, for class 3 wool costing less than 13 cents per pound, was based upon a valuation of $0.68 per Russian ruble, in accord- ance with Department's ruling of October 1, 1890. (Synopsis 10263.) The return made on the invoice by the appraiser was " value correct to 9.18 cents per pound," and in a special report to the collector he wrote, "I beg to say that the value of the wool as returned by this office was based on its value at the time of shipment, and not at the time of arrival, which value was based upon the declara- tion of the consul that the ruble was worth 60.15 cents." The appellants claim that the amount of duties chargeable upon the merchandise should have been estimated in accordance with the appraiser's return. The points at issue in the present case are: (1) What was the equivalent in the gold dollars of the United States of the paper ruble of Russia? (2) Should the value of the paper ruble have been estimated at the time of ship- ment of the merchandise or at the date of entry thereof ? As to the second point, we hold that the local appraiser exhausted all the powers vested in hirn by law when, in addition to an advisory classification, he made return on the invoice as to the quantity and character of the merchandise and the actual market value thereof at the date of shipment in paper rubles, the currency stated in the invoice and alleged by the importers to have been paid for the goods. It was exclusively the duty of the collector at the date of entry to have reduced to its equivalent in gold dollars of the United States the invoiced and entered amount in paper rubles, and to have estimated the amount of duty chargeable thereon. We proceed to a consideration of the question : What was the monetary value of the paper ruble of Russia at the date of entry ? The statutes bearing upon this sub- ject are section 52, act of October 1, 1890, which makes provision for the manner of estimating the value of foreign coins, and section 2903, Revised Statutes, which pro- vides that " the President may cause to be established fit and proper regulations for estimating the duties on merchandise imported into the United States in respect to which the original cost shall be exhibited in a depreciated currency issued and circulated under authority of any government." It must be borne in mind, in con- nection with this statute, first, that the President can not fix an arbitrary value to the depreciated foreign currency without regard to its intrinsic value as compared with our money ; and, second, that instructions given by the Secretary of the Treasury relative to the value of a depreciated currency, either by general circulars to col- lectors, or by specific directions in a particular case, are in law to be regarded as regulations established by the President in that behalf. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 241 Article 1294 of the General Regulations of tlio Treasury Department for 1884 directs that "when the standard value of foreign currency is undetermined, a con- sular certificate must be indorsed upon or securely attached to the invoice, in accord- ance with form 311." The Secretary of the Treasury in synoptical decision 7398, dated March 8, 1886, advises that entry of merchandise shipped from Russia shall be refused, unless the invoice covering the same is made out \\\ paper rubles, and is accompanied by a con- sular certificate giving the value thereof, estimated in United States gold dollars, as indicated by the latest quotations at St. Petersburg of sight drafts in sterling on London. The certificate of the U. S. consul, attached to the invoice under consideration, was made in the form prescribed above, and up t ) the date of the entry, October 20, 1890, covered by this protest, as far as we have been able to discover, there have been no regulations of a conflicting nature issued by the President. It is true that paper currency is merely a promise to redeem the face value thereof in the standard coin of the country issuing the same, and that the value of such standard coin, as estimated by the Director of the Mint and proclaimed by the Sec- retary of the Treasury, must be accepted in estimating the amount of duties charge- able on imported merchandise, when the paper currency with which the merchandise was purchased has a greater value, as compared with our money, than the standard coin it represents. This rule, however, does not apply to paper currency which is redeemable only at a discount. Such paper currency then becomes a depreciated currency. It is also true that the certificate of the consul is merely prime facie evidence as to the actual value of a depreciated currency ; but in the present case the evidence is to be taken as conclusive, as it is not controverted by the appellants. We find as facts : (1) That the value of the merchandise was correctly stated in Russia paper rubles. (2) That the paper ruble is a depreciated currency issued and circulated under the authority of Russia. (3) That by regulations established by the President the value of the paper ruble at the date of entry of the merchandise in question was $0.6015. We hold that the claim of the appellants was well taken, and. the protest is sus- tained. (11847— O. A. §3§.) New Yot?k, August 28, 1891. Cottonettes. — The importers of the merchandise in question say: " We protest against the assessment and liquidation of duty upon one bale of cottonette. We claim that your classification of said, merchandise as woolen cloth dutiable at 50 per cent ad valorem and 44 cents per pound under paragraph 392, act of October 1, 1890 is erroneous, and that said merchandise should be classified as manufactures of cotton not specially enumerated, or provided for, and dutiable at 40 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 355, N. T., for the reason that cotton is the component part of chief value, a very small percentage of the goods being wool." The official sample of the material accompanying the protest and papers in tho case was, at the request of the board, the subject of a quantitative analysis by the chemist in charge of the U. S. laboratory at New York. This officer reports as follows relative thereto : Quality of wool as worsted in colored condition, 31*94 per cent; quality of cotton in colored condition, 68*06 per cent. Based upon the above analysis, together with the testimony of expert witnesses, who examined the sample referred to, we find as facts concerning the merchandise In question : H. Mis. 94 16 242 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. That it is composed of cotton and wool, of which materials cotton forms the prin- cipal part in quantity and wool the component of chief value. We hold that duty was properly assessed upon the good* in accordance with the provisions of paragraph 392, N. T. The protest is overruled and the action of the collector affirmed. (1 1 853— G. A. 844.) New York, September 8, 1891. Flannels dutiable as women's and children's dress goods.— The report of the appraiser relative to the merchandise covered by the protest in the present case is as follows : The goods are wool flannels, weighing over 4 ounces to the square yard, measuring over 57 inches in width, and costing over 50 cents per pound. They were returned for duty as all-wool flannels at 44 cents per pound and 50 per cent ad valorem, under paragraphs 393 and 395, act October 1, 1890. The importers in their protest say: "We claim the goods in question are specially provided for as similar description to women's dress goods, under paragraph 395, N. T." We find as facts on the face of the papers that the merchandise is flannel composed wholly of wool, valued at above 50 cents per pound and weighing over 4 ounces to the square yard. The portions of the two paragraphs bearing upon the question at issue are: 393. Flannels composed wholly or iu part of wool, * * * valued at above 50 cents per pound, shall be classified and pay the same duty as women's and children's dress goods and goods of similar character and description provided by this act. 395. On women's and children's dress goods * * * composed wholly or in part of wool * * * the duty shall be 12 cents per square yard and, in addition thereto, 50 per cent ad valorem: Provided, That on all such goods weighing over 4 ounces per square yard the duty per pound shall be four times the duty imposed by this act on a pound of unwashed wool of the first class, and in addition thereto, 50 per cent ad valorem. In accordance with the above provisions the flannels of wool were classified as women's and children's dress goods, and, inasmuch as they weighed over 4 ounces per square yard, the rate of duty prescribed by the proviso attached to paragraph 395 was held to be applicable to, and was assessed upon, the goods in question. It is inferred that the contention of the importer is that the merchandise is subject to only the rate of duty provided in the first clause of paragraph 395 for women's and children's dress goods. This contention we hold to be not well taken. By the terms of paragraph 393, the flannels in question being composed of wool, and of greater value than 50 cents per pound, are to be considered as women's and children's dress goods, and subject to all of the provisions, including the proviso made applicable thereto, under para- graph 395, N. T. The action of the collector in assessing duty upon the merchandise in question at 44 cents per pound and 50 per cent ad valorem was, in our oxnnion, correct, and is affirmed. (11866-G. A. 857.) Treasury Department, October 17, 1891. Woolen plush. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 25th ultimo, transmitting an application from the Jackson and Sharp Company, of your city, for drawback on woolen plush, imported by them per steamship Switzerland from Ant- werp, by way of Philadelphia, August 6, 1891, and used in upholstering seats, backs, and rests, and safety ropes for berths in exported sleeping cars of their construction. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 243 It appearing from your report that the wastage incurred was very small, and that the remaining scraps are of no value, you are hereby authorized, in accordance with your recommendation, to allow a drawback equal to the duties paid on the imported plush so used, less the legal deduction of 1 per cent. (111)29.) Treasury Department, October 21, 1891. Wool washed on the pelt. — Referring to your note of yesterday, I have to inform you that Synopsis 11297 expressed the conclusions arrived at by this Depart- ment regarding the classification of wool washed on the pelt before pulling, but that synopsis 11400 contains the decision of the question by the Board of General Appraisers, which has been accepted as the rule of practice for custom officers, no appeal having been taken by the protestants. (11938.) New Yo R k , Sep tern her 24, 189 1 Robe patterns — wool and silk piece goods and embroideries. — The appraiser reports that " the merchandise in question consists of women's dress goods imported in patterns, each pattern comprising a certain number of meters of plain woven fabric sufficient for the body of the dress, and one or more shorter pieces embroid- ered for trimming the garment." Upon one invoice covered by the protest these dresses, or robes so called, are invoiced as u entireties, while upon the other the plain material and cost of embroid- ering are separately valued. The plain and embroidered parts are, however, readily separable for valuation, and were therefore returned for duty separately.' 7 The collector classified the goods in accordance with the report of the appraiser, and assessed duty upon the plain portion thereof at the rate of 12 cents per square yard and 50 per cent ad valorem, under the appropriate provision of paragraph 395, act of October 1, 1890, and at 60 cents per pound, and, in addition thereto, 60 per cent ad valorem upon the embroidered part", under paragraph 398, N. T. The importers, in protesting against the action of the collector, say : We claim said goods should have been assessed at 50 per cent ad valorem and 44 cents per pound as manufactures of wool or worsted not specially provided for; or under paragraph 395 of said act, as dress goods, at 50 per cent ad valorem and 12 cents per square yard. We hold that the small part of each of said robes should not pay a different duty from the whole robe, as it would be unsalable without it, and that the parts being put up and sold together in every instance will make it an article which is subject to only one assessment of duty and not to several, the same as clocks and many other articles which have one duty when put together and differ- ent ones when the parts are imported separate. We further hold that style 27 in case 1190 can not be termed embroidered accord- ing to the definition of embroidery as given by the Encyclopedia Britannia and G. A. 470, rendered March 31, 1891, there being simply a cord sewn on by machines, not worked upon the cloth, and which can be removed without defacing the . piece of goods. The sample submitted to us of style No. 27 shows it to be a fabric of wool orna- mented with silk threads, the ornamentation resembling in appearance tambour work. The testimony of prominent manufacturers and importers of similar goods who appeared before the board was to the effect that this style, as well as styles numbers 1, 6, 7, 8, 9, 11, 12, 15, 16, 20, 22, 24, 25, and 26, were embroidered on a machine known as the Bonnaz or Cornerly machine. The specification of the patent, therefore, which we have examined, describes the work produced by the machine as round- stitch and chain-stitch embroidery. The corded or tamboured appearance of the work is produced by the machine twisting the silk at the same time the needle therein is embroidering the required design upon the fabric. 244 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. We therefore find that this portion of the merchandise is embroidered, and over- rule the protest relative thereto. This ruling is not in conflict with G. A. 470, wherein the board held that "the term tamboured or embroidered * * * can only be properly and safely applied to those fabrics * * * figured or ornamented by the employment of the needle, whether directed by the hand or by machinery." * * * We further find that all of the merchandise covered by this x>rotest is women's dress goods composed wholly or in part of wool, worsted, the hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, or other animals, weighing less than 4 ounces to the square yard. We can not sustain the claim of the appellants that the plain and embroidered parts of the so-called robes, which were invoiced as an entirety, should be treated in the same manner as clocks or other completed articles. In Gr. A. 334 the board held that merchandise similar to that in question was not wearing apparel, but was piece goods intended to be made into wearing apparel. The appraiser having segregated the value of the plain and embroidered portions of the goods in question, the action of the collector in assessing duty upon the sep- arate parts thereof, in accordance with the provisions of paragraphs 395 and 398, respectively, was, in our opinion, correct, and is affirmed. (11075 — G. A. 88§.) New York, October 8, 1891. Charges for winding, hanking, skeining, etc., worsted yarn.— We find (1) that the merchandise consists of six bales of worsted, imported from Liverpool, and entered at the port of Philadelphia on September 30, 1890. (2) That the items of charge to which objection is taken by the protest consist of the following : £ 8, d. Winding into skeins 15 8 10 Hanking and bundling 7 14 5 Paper and strings 1 7 14 4 Cost of packing 2 8 0 Total , 33 5 7=$162 (3) That the merchandise was actually purchased in the market of Bradford, Eng- land, and that the invoice, as verified by oath, did not include and specify the said charges, or any of them, in the declaration required to be filed by section 5 of the act of June 10, 1890. (4) We are of opinion that these charges are elements of dutiable value, either as entering into the per se market value of the merchandise, or as belonging to those *' costs, charges, and expenses incident to placing the merchandise in condition packed ready for shipment to the United States," which are expressly made a part of such dutiable value by section 19 of said act of June 10, 1890. They were prop- erly, therefore, included in the estimate of market value. There is no evidence of any kind before us that these charges were twice included in the estimate of market value, as seems to be contended. The objection to the constitutionality of the act of June 10, 1890, has been many times decided by this board not to be well taken. All the grounds of protest are accordingly overruled, and the collector's decision is affirmed. (12017— G. A. 030.) New York, October 10, 1891. Fez caps. — The goods are invoiced as red Fez caps. They were assessed for duty at 49£ cents per pound and 60 per cent ad valorem as wearing apparel, under para- graph 396, N. TV, and are claimed by the appellant to be dutiable either as hats of WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 245 wool under paragraph 393, or at 44 cents per pound and 50 per cent ad valorem as wool-knit fabrics, under paragraph 392, act of October 1, 1890. The caps are not hats and are not popularly nor commercially known as hats. They are composed of a felted knit fabric, with a long silk tassel attached to the center of the crown. They are not known to trade or commerce as knit fabrics. The protest is overruled, and the assessment of duty by the collector is hereby affirmed. (12025— O. A. 938.) New York, October 16, 1891. Wool invoiced in Shanghai taels. — We find as facts in this case: (1) That S. Conrad's Sons imported into the port of New York, November 12, 1890, 163 bales of wool from Shanghai, covered by two invoices and which were returned by the appraiser as wool of the third class, valued at less than 13 cents per pound, including charges, and subject to duty at 32 per cent ad valorem, the invoiced value in Shanghai taels being the appraised value. (2) That the entry of said wool was made in the currency of the invoices. (3) That said wool was shipped at Shanghai April 15 and 26, 1890, upon two in- voices certified by the U. S. consul at that port on the 16th and 30th days of said month, and that said wool was purchased in the currency of the invoices. (4) That the value of the Shanghai tael, expressed in the money of account of the United States as duly proclaimed by the Secretary of the Treasury, January 1, 1890, was $1.03.1, and as proclaimed October 1, 1890, $1.25.6. (5) That the entry of said wool was made at the custom-house in New York November 12, 1890, and the duty was liquidated in accordance with the value of the tael as proclaimed October 1, 1890. The protestants allege in their protest, which is not sworn to, that the tael at Shanghai, on the 15th day of April, 1890, at the then rate of exchange, was equiva- lent to $1.0929, and on the 26th day of said April, $1,059, in American gold coin, but they offered no evidence to support this allegation. The protestants further allege that the liquidation of their entry upon the basis of value of the tael as proclaimed on the first day of October, 1890, in effect increased the value of their wool for dutiable purposes beyond the actual and the appraised market value thereof at the time and place of export, and claim that such liquidation is illegal. In the liquida- tion of the duties under this entry, the collector, upon examination of the invoice, entry, and appraised value of the merchandise, ascertained that there was a concur- rence in the several values, expressed in taels. It is claimed, upon the one hand, that the foreign market value, expressed in the money of account of the United States according to the rate of exchange at the time of purchase and shipment, is the correct value upon which duty should be assessed. Upon the other hand, it is alleged that the foreign market value was taken, and that that value was expressed in taels ; that the tael had no value in the money of account of the United States, except as fixed by the proclamation of the Secretary of the Treasury ; that the proc- lamation in force at the time of the entry superseded the former proclamation and in effect repealed it; that no duties attached to the merchandise until it was im- ported; that when duties did attach they attached according to the laws there in force, and that it was the duty of the collector to compute the duties upon the tael value according to the law in force when he was required to act. If in one instance this requirement appeared to work to the prejudice of the importer, at another time the effect might appear to be prejudicial to the Government, and thus, as a rule, was not unfair to either party. While we find no decision of the courts clearly covering the point raised is this case, yet the language of the opinion in Hedden v. Merritt (115 U. S., 27), seems to sustain the action of the collector, and the views heretofore expressed by this board in G. A. 838 support his action. It is proper to call attention to the fact that the Secretary of the Treasury, on the 246 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. first day of July, 1891, changed the language of his quarterly proclamation. For- merly it was stated therein that the proclaimed value is " to be followed in estimating the value of all foreign merchandise imported on or after 7 ' the specified date. In the proclamations of July 1, 1891, and subsequent dates, the language is changed to "exported to the United States on and after the" date thereof. Under the requirements of the law as they appear to us to have existed at the time of this importation, we are of the opinion that the collectors' action was correct. The protest is overruled, and the action of the collector affirmed. (12038 — O. A. 951.) Tkeasury Department, November 28, 1891. Drawback on exported wool. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 21st instant, in which you inclose the application of Messrs. Chas. J. Webb & Co. for the rebate of duty paid on certain wool by embracing in one export entry merchandise from four different importations, neither of which, you state, paid a duty amounting to $50. You report that, under the provisions of article 913 of the Regulations of 1884, and section 3016, Revised Statutes, which prescribes that "no merchandise imported shall be entitled to a drawback of the duties paid, unless the duties so paid shall amount to $50 at least," the application in question was denied by you, and you ask to be advised whether you would bejustified in granting the request of the said importers. In reply, I have to state that the combination of separate small importations in one export entry for the purpose of making an amount of duty which would exceed $50, in order to obtain a refund of duty paid, is regarded as an evasion of the require- ments of the statute, and should not be permitted. Your action, therefore, in refusing the application is hereby approved. ( 1 2092.) New York, November 10, 1891. Pile fabrics, wool chief value — Carpets for upholstery purposes. — The collector classified the goods in question as -pile fabrics comgosed wholly or in part of wool, worsted, the hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, or other animal, and assessed duty upon it at 49^ cents per pound and 60 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 396, act of October 1, 1890. The importers claim that the goods are dutiable at 50 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 470 of said act, as carpets or carpeting of wool, flax, or cotton, or composed in part of either of them. An examination of the official sample of the merchandise shows it to be a heavy cloth with a cotton back and an extra looped warp of wool, w r hich forms a surface pile. Every alternate loop thread is cut, giving to the face of the goods a corded velvety effect. The material is invoiced as " crab and red spot figured cords rep./' and the vend- ers thereof advertise themselves as manufacturers of carriage and railway laces and woven figured velvets. In addition to the above significant facts, the fineness of the cotton threads com- posing the back of the goods indicates that they are not suitable for floor wear, but were probably designed for and are chiefly used for upholstering seats of cars, as stated by the appraiser. We find as facts that the merchandise is not carpets or carpeting. We further find that it is composed of wool and cotton, wool chief value, and that it is a pile fabric. The protest is accordingly overruled, and the action of the collector is affirmed. (12142-CJ. A. 1004.) WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OP WOOL. 247 New York, December 2, 1891. Gloria cloth. — The appraiser rej^orts that "the merchandise in question consists of a manufacture of silk in the warp and worsted in the weft. It has no border on the selvage, which is a distinguishing characteristic of merchandise known as umbrella cloth, but is similar to women's and children's dress goods." It was assessed with duty at 12 cents per square yard and 50 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 395, act of October 1, 1890. At the hearing in the case the counsel for the importers appeared before the board and argued in support of their protest : (1) That the merchandise is not dress goods. (2) That it is composed of silk and worsted (not wool). (3) That silk is the component material of chief value entering into its fabrica-* tion. An analysis of the merchandise had by the board confirmed the appellant's claim that the component parts thereof are worsted and silk, of which substances silk is the greater in value. There was no evidence submitted, however, to us tending to impeach the appraiser's statement that, inasmuch as the material has no border on the selvage, it was not umbrella cloth. * We make the following findings of fact: (1) That the merchandise is known as gloria cloth. (2) That it is composed of silk and wool or worsted, silk chief value. (3) That it is used in the manufacture of women's and children's dresses and is similar in description and character to women's and children's dress goods. (4) That it weighs less than four ounces to the square yard. Women's and children's dress goods is a phrase of commercial designation. The goods in question are composed wholly or in part of worsted, and are of like character and description as, and are to be treated in the same manner as if they were, women's and children's dress goods. Commercial designation takes precedence in the classification of mixed materials. Consequently the ruling in Hartrauft v. Meyer does not apply in the present case. We hold the goods are more specifically provided for in paragraph 395 than in paragraph 414. We are of the opinion that the proviso attached to paragraph 414 removes the merchandise in question from classification thereunder, for, notwithstanding the fact that the fabric is composed of silk and worsted, it is equally a fact that it is a manufacture of silk or of which silk is the component material of chief value, of which wool or the hair of the camel, goat, or other like animal is a component material. The protest is overruled, and the action of the collector is affirmed. (12230 O. A. 1044.) New York, December 2, 1891. Smoking jackets— wearing apparel.— The goods covered by this protest are smoking jackets composedf^ofc-eotton bodies bound wither worsted braid. They were returned by the appraiser as wool wearing apparel. The collector classified them as such, and assessed duty upon them at 49| cents per pound and 60 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 396, act of October 1, 1890. The importer claims that the merchandise is dutiable at 50 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 349 of the said act, as cotton wearing apparel. We are of the opinion that the importer's contention is correct. Paragraph 396 provides for clothing, ready made, and articles of wearing apparel * * * not specially provided for, * * * composed wholly or in part of wool, etc. Paragraph 349 provides for wearing apparel * * * composed of cotton or other vegetable fibers, or of which cotton or other vegetables fiber is the component material of chief value. 248 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Applying the principles of statutory construction as laid down by the Supreme Court of the United States in Meyer v. Hartranft, we are forced to hold that the goods in question are more specifically provided for under paragraph 349 than under paragraph 396. We find as facts that the merchandise is wearing apparel composed of cotton and wool, and that cotton is the component material of chief value entering into the fabrication thereof. We accordingly sustain the protest as to the rate claimed by the appellant to be applicable thereto, under the act of October 1, 1890, and over- rule the portion of the protest with regard to the constitutionality of said act. (12231— G. A. 1045.) New York, December 2, 1891. Painters 7 canvas (wool). — The appraiser in his special report to the collector says: u The merchandise in question consisted of a manufacture of wool and cotton commercially known and sold as painters' canvas." It was classified as a manufacture of wool, and assessed with duty at 44 cents per pound and 50 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 392, act of October 1, 1890. The importer claims the merchandise is a manufacture of cotton and wool, cotton chief value, and dutiable at 40 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 355 of said act. At the hearing in the case samples of merchandise were submitted without testi- mony as to the relative cost of the component materials entering into the fabrica- tion thereof. An inspection of these samples shows the goods to be a fine corded woven fabric, one surface ribbed and the other presenting the appearance of a knit fabric or webbing. The samples are sent to the U. S. chemist at New York for analysis, who reported that they were " found to consist Avholly of wool fibers, although the fibers forming the ribs of the fabric consist of wool hair called ' Ukemp.'" Several grades of wool are to be found in each sample. Based upon this report, we find that the merchandise is not a manufacture of cotton or of which cotton is the component material of chief value. The protest is accordingly overruled, and the decision of the collector is affirmed. (12234-G. A. 104§.) New Yoek, December 2, 1891. Nuns' veilings. — The goods in question are woven fabrics known commercially as nuns' veilings. They are composed of wool in the weft and cotton, silk, and wool in the warp, respectively. The goods were classified as part worsted dress goods, or goods of like description, and assessed for duty at 12 cents per square yard and 50 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 395, act October 1, 1890. The importers claim that the goods are dutiable at 44 cents per pound and 50 per cent, in accordance with the provision of paragraph 392 of the said act applicable to manufactures of wool not otherwise provided for, valued at above 40 cents per pound. At the hearing in the case the evidence tended conclusively to show that the mer- chandise contained a border upon each side thereof and was of such a flimsy char- acter that it was not suitable to be made into dresses for women or children, and that it was known commercially as nuns' veilings or bordered veilings, and not as dress goods. It was also in evidence that there is a material known commercially as nuns' veil- ing which has a border on one side, and which is composed of the same materials as, but made in a more substantial manner than, the merchandise in question, and that this material is known as dress goods. We make the following finding of facts in this case: (1) That the merchandise is composed wholly or in part of wool, worsted, the hair WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 249 of the camel, goat, alpaca, or other animal, and weighs less than 4 ounces per square yard. (2) That it is known commercially as nuns' veiling, and not as women's or chil- dren's dress goods, coat linings, or Italian cloths. (3) That it contains a horder on each side, and is of a flimsy character, and not suitable for use in the manufacture of women's or children's dresses, or for purposes to which women's or children's dress goods, coat linings, or Italian cloths are usually applied. (4) That in material and manner of fabrication, with the exception of having a border on each side formed in the process of weaving, it is similar to women's dress goods. Based upon the above findings, it is apparent that the case turns upon the scope of the term " goods of like character and description" contained in paragraph 395. The Supreme Court, in Greenleaf v. Goodrich (101 U. S., 283), enunciated the fol- lowing principle: "The statute does not contemplate that goods classed under the words 1 of similar description ' shall be in all respects the same. If it did, these words would be unnecessary. They were intended to embrace goods like, but not identical with, delaines." The jury had been charged that " goods of similar descrip- tion * * * is a similarity in respect to the product and its adaptation to uses. * * * If you find that the product or result is an article for ladies' dresses made with a cotton warp and worsted filling, the question for determination is whether the two kinds of goods are substantially the same and alike," and the Supreme Court found no error in the charge. In Sullivan v. Robertson (37 F. R., 778), in relation to Thybet coatings, commer- cially known as " dress goods," his honor Judge Lacombe said: "With regard to this general group of goods (which we know not only from the evidence in this case, but from our experience in other cases, is a species of fabric which women use for their dresses "), etc. It would thus appear from the authorities cited that adaption to use was a nec- essary qualification in order to classify fabrics composed wholly or in part of wool, worsted, the hair of the camel, goat, alpaca or other animals as goods of similar description or character with women's or children's dress goods, coat linings, Italian cloth, or bunting. The goods in this case are not susceptible of use for the purposes to which the fabrics above mentioned are usually applied. We therefore hold that they do not fall within the provisions of paragraph 395„ but are dutiable as claimed by the appellants. The protest is accordingly sustained. (1223 , 7. — G. A. 1051*) New York, December 2, 1891, House flannel. — The appraiser reports that the merchandise in this case is a manufacture of wool and cotton resembling toweling, and that it is net flannel and can not be used for the same purposes to which flannel is applied. It was classified as a manufacture of wool and assessed with duty at 33 cents per pound and 40 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 392, act Oct. 1, 1890. The importers claim the goods are known commercially as house flannel, and are composed of wool in the weft and cotton in the warp, valued at not over 15 cents per square yard and therefore dutiable at 7 cents per square yard and of 40 per cent ad valorem, presumably under paragraph 394 of the said act. The importers appeared before the board and testified, as did other witnesses, that the merchandise was an especial kind of flannel other than flannel for under- wear, commercially known as house flannel, and that it was designed for use in scrubbing floors. It appears on the invoice, and was admitted by the importers, 250 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. that the material is valued at less than 50 cents per pound and weighs over 4 ounces to the square yard. We therefore find as facts : (1) That the merchandise is known commercially as house flannel. (2) That it is not flannel for underwear. (3) That it is not valued at more than 30 cents per pound. Upon the ahove findings of fact, the contention of the importers must he dis- missed. Even if the material is flannel, a point we shall not pass upon, inasmuch as it is valued at not more than 50 cents per pound, it can not be classified and pay the same duty as women's and children's dress goods. Were such not the case and the goods were dutiable under paragraph 395, the material weighing more than 4 ounces per square yard, the rate of duty made applicable thereto by the terms of the proviso attached to paragraph 394 would be 44 cents per square yard and 50 per cent ad valorem, in lieu of 33 cents per square yard and 40 per cent, the rate imposed upon the merchancise by the collector. It was in evidence that the goods contained no wool, but were composed exclu- sively of cotton. Samples thereof were submitted to the board, which had been subjected to chemical tests and which tended to confirm the statement of expert wit- nesses to that effect. This point, however, is immaterial. The importer made no claim that the merchandise was dutiable either as a countable cotton cloth or as a manufacture of cotton, but contended that the merchandise was dutiable as women's and children's dress goods or goods of similar character, composed in part of wool with a warp of cotton or other vegetable fiber. They were in error as to this con- tention. The protest is accordingly overruled, and the action of the collector must stand. (12238— tt. A. 1052.) New York, December 3. 189 1+ Camel's hair cloakings. — The importers in this case claim the goods are flan- nels, and as such subject to duty at 33 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 393, act of October 1, 1890. The appraiser reported the goods were camel's hair clothing. They were thus invoiced, and we so find as facts. Duty was assessed upon the merchandise at 44 cents per pound and 50 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 392 of the said act. An inspection of the iuvoice shows the goods are valued at over $1 per pound and weighing more than 4 ounces per square yard. Assuming the contention of the importers that the fabrics are flannels to be cor- rect, they are removed from classification under paragraph 393 by virtue of the proviso attached thereto, and are dutiable at the rate imposed under paragraph 395. The protest is accordingly overruled and the action of the collector stands. (12245— G. A. 1059.) New York, December 4, 1891. Worsted shawls (embroidered).— We find on the face of the papers that the articles in question are shawls composed of worsted and embroidered with silk. Duty was assessed upon them at the rate of 60 cents per pound and 60 per cent ad valorem, in accordance with the provisions of paragraphs 398 and 373 of the act of October 1, 1890. The importers claim that inasmuch as shawls are specifically enumerated in para- graph 392 of the said act, they are subject to no other duty than at 44 cents per pound and 50 per cent ad valorem, as therein provided. It is true, as contended, that shawls are specifially ©numerated in paragraph 392, WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 251 font the proviso attached to paragraph 373 provides "that articles of wearing apparel and textile fabrics, when embroidered by hand or machinery, and whether specially or otherwise provided for in this act, shall not pay a less rate of duty than that fixed by the respective paragraphs and schedules upon embroideries of the mate- rials of which they are respectively composed." In the present case the merchandise is wearing apparel or textile fabrics com- posed of worsted, and is embroidered. We hold that it was properly assessed with duty at 60 cents per pound and 60 per cent ad valorem, the rate applicable to worsted embroideries. The protest is accordingly overruled, and the action of the collector is affirmed. (12247— G. A. 1061.) New York, December 4, 1891. Upholstery canvas or cloth (wool). — The merchandise in question is known in trade as upholstery canvas or cloth. It is a white corded fabric composed of a heavy cotton cord in the warp and fine threads of wool in the weft. It was classi- fied as a manufacture of wool valued at over 40 cents per pound, and assessed with duty at 44 cents per pound and 50 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 392, act October 1, 1890. The importer submitted a sample of goods similar in appearance, composed exclu- sively of cotton, which was valued at a higher price than the merchandise in ques- tion, in support of their contention that cotton was the component material of chief value entering into the fabrication of the goods covered by this protest, upon which fact is founded their claim that duty should have been assessed upon the mer- chandise at 40 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 355 of the said act. The board has no evidence before it tending to discredit the appellant's conten- tion relative to the comparative value of the cotton and wool entering into the fabri- cation of the goods, nor was it deemed necessary to take evidence upon this point. We make this finding of facts : (1) That the merchandise is composed wholly or in part of wool. (2) That it is a manufacture of which cotton is a component material of chief value. Inasmuch, however, as paragraph 355 does not contain the words "manufactures of which cotton is the component material of chief value,' 7 the provision of para- graph 392 is equally as specific, and controls the classification of the goods by reason of its imposing the higher rate of duty applicable thereto. The Treasury Depart- ment has for many years construed the statute in accordance with this principle. Congress in repeated acts has given to the ruling of the Treasury Department legislative indorsement by reenacting the provisions relative to cotton and woolen goods, with the notable exception that in the act of October 1, 1890, wearing apparel composed of cotton and wool is made subject to duty under paragraph 349 by the addition of the words, u of which cotton is the component material of chief value. " In our opinion, the claim of the importer that the merchandise in question is dutiable at 40 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 355, is not well founded. The protest is accordingly overruled, and the action of the collector is affirmed. (12250— G. A. 1064.) New York, December 24, 1891. Crimped wool (imitation hair). — The merchandise is wool which has been prepared and crimped to resemble human hair. It was assessed for duty at 44 cents per pound and 50 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 392, N. T., as a manufacture of worsted, and is claimed by the appellants to be dutiable, under paragraph 381, as scoured wool of the second class. We find that the merchandise is not known commercially as scoured wool, and 252 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. that it has been advanced beyond the scouring process. The protest is therefore overruled. Reference is made to paragraph 390,JST. T. (12331— O. A. 1103.) New York, January IS, 1892. Embroidered wool piano and table covers. — We find as facts on the face of the papers and from the exhibits in the case : *(1) That the goods were imported subsequent to October 6. 1890, and are textile fabrics. (2) That they are known commercially as table covers and piano covers. (3) That the bodies of the articles are composed of wool, and that they are embroid- ered by hand or machinery with silk and worsted and with worsted and cotton, respectively. (4) That wool is the component material of chief value entering into their fabri- cation. Duty was assessed upon the merchandise at 60 cents per pound and 60 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 398, act of October 1, 1890. The appellants claim, first, that the act of October 1, 1890, is unconstitut ional, and alternatively that the fabrics were made on frames and are composed of wool embroidered with silk ; that they cost over 40 cents per pound and are dutiable at 44 cents per pound and 50 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 392, act of October 1, 1890. The appellants, in an elaborate argument, contend (1) that, as the bodies of the fabrics are composed exclusively of wool, they are specifically provided for in par agraph 392, and can not be removed therefrom for classification by general terms in a later part of the act. (2) That inasmuch as paragraph 414 provides that all manufactures of silk of which wool * * * is a component material shall be classified as manufactures of wool, it is made imperative that in the present case the goods must be so classified. (3) That table covers are denominatively provided for at 60 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 351. Regarding the last contention, we hold there is no force whatever. Paragraph 351 applies to chenille table covers or table covers of which cotton chenille is the com- ponent material of chief value. It is admitted that the table covers in question are not composed in whole or in part of chenille. The board has heretofore held that the proviso attached to paragraph 373 covers all textile fabrics embroidered Dy hand or machinery, whether such fabrics are provided for denominatively or not. The language of this proviso is explicit and not general in its terms, and includes all articles of wearing apparel and textile fabrics of whatever material composed. Based upon the findings in this case, we hold that the embroidered wool table and piano covers- were properly assessed for duty at 60 cents per pound and 60 per cent ad valorem, the rate applicable to worsted embroideries, in accordance with the pro- visions of paragraphs 373 and 398. The protest, both as to the constitutionality of the act of October 1, 1890, and the rate of duty, is overruled, and the action of the collector is affirmed. (12365— O. A. 1 137.) Treasury Department, March 2, 1892. Sorted wool. — I inclose herewith, for your information, a copy of a letter, dated the 11th ultimo, from the honorable Attorney-General of the United States, stating that he has directed an appeal to be taken from the judgment of the circuit court for the southern district of New York, affirming the decision of the Board of U. S. General Appraisers in the appeal of E. S. Higgins & Co. from your assessment of duty upon an importation of certain East India wool. WOOL AND MANUFACTURER OF WOOL. 253 After reviewing the various questions of law involved in the case and expressing the opinion that it is well to have upon some of them a ruling from a court of last resort, the Attorney-General concludes as follows: Meanwhile I suggest to you that your orders to the collector be modified so that hereafter the words (in paragraph 383, N. T.), "twice the duty to which it would be otherwise subject/' shall not be construed to mean double the duty imposed on the wool in its actual imported condition, but double the duty which would have been imposed on the wool if it had been imported without sorting or any other changes referred to in paragraph 383, and that whenever this shall result in making the doubled duty under paragraph 383 less than that under paragraph 385 or para- graph 386 then the duty under paragraph 385 or paragraph 386 be imposed, as held by the Board of General Appraisers in their opinion in this case. The above suggestion is adopted by this Department, and the instructions con- tained in Synoposes Nos. 11307 and 11665 are hereby modified accordingly. (12468.) New York, February 25, 1892. Cotton embroideries (metal). — We find as facts on the face of the papers: (1) That the articles covered by this protest are tidies embroidered by hand or machinery. (2) That they were imported subsequent to October 6, 1890. (3) That they are composed of cotton, worsted, silk, and metal. (4) That the material or body of the tidies is composed chiefly of cotton, and that cotton is the component material of chief value in the completed articles. Inasmuch as worsted entered into the fabrication of the embroidered tidies, duty was assessed thereon at 60 cents per pound and 60 per cent ad valorem, under para- graph 398, act of October 1, 1890. The collector, in transmitting the papers in the case, however, expressed some doubts as to the correctness of his classification. The appellants claimed alternatively that the goods are dutiable at 60 per cent ad valo- rem as articles made of lace, under paragraph 373, act of October 1, 1890. They are in error as to the character of the goods, but this is not sufficient to invalidate their claim if the articles are found to be properly dutiable under the paragraph and at the rate specified in the protest. In the present case the material of which the articles are composed is cotton, and is embroidered by hand or machinery, whether with worsted, silk, or metal is, in our opinion, immaterial. We hold that the goods are dutiable as cotton embroideries, at 60 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 373. The protest is sustained. (12559— O. A. New York, March 21, 1892. Wool caps not hats. — This protest is against the assessment of duty at the rate of 49^ cents per pound and 60 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 396, N. T., on certain wool caps, and at 45 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 347, N. T., on so- called " cotton zephyrs and crepes," which the appellant claims are dutiable, viz, the caps at 38£ cents per pound and 40 percent ad valorem as "hats of wool," under paragraph 393, N. T., or at 44 cents per pound and 50 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 392, N. T., and the zephyrs and crepes at 40 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 355, N. T. We find as facts from the papers and samples in the case : 1. That the caps are composed of wool, are intended to be worn upon the head as an article of wearing apparel, and are not hats. # # # ¥■ # * * In view of our findings of fact, and following the board's decisions in G. A. 938 on fez caps, * * * we hold that all of said merchandise was properly assessed for duty by the collector, and Ma action is affirmed. (12653— O. A* 1302.) 254 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. New York, March 24, 1892. China camel's hair. — The merchandise subject of this protest was invoiced from Tientsin, China, as "Peking camel's hair/ 7 and having been returned by the appraiser as class 2, China camel's hair, was assessed for duty at 12 cents per pound, under the provisions of paragraphs 377 and 384, act of October 1, 1890. The protestants claim that the merchandise is "precisely identical with Russian camel's hair," and as the value, including the charges, does not exceed 13 cents per pound, is dutiable at 32 per cent ad valorem, as camel's hair of class 3, under para- graph 385 of the said act, and they state that the term u Russian camel's hair," as used in the trade, does not mean camel's hair grown in Russia, but a certain class of camel's hair which is sold here under the name of "Russian," being mostly imported directly or indirectly from Russian ports; that there are no camels in Russia; that the camel's hair comes from central Asia, whence it is exported either by way of Russia or China; that, while the hair in question was imported by way of China, it is virtually of the same class as imported by way of Russia, hence is entitled to admission at the same rate, otherwise the tariff would discriminate against the Chinese treaty ports and in favor of Russia. We find as facts from the papers and testimony in the case : (1) That the merchandise in question was imported from China and invoiced as " Peking camel's hair," audwas correctly returned by the appraiser as "China camel's hair." (2) That there is a marked difference between what is known in trade as China camel's hair and Russian camel's hair, the former being usually lighter in color, finer in quality, and of higher value than the latter. (3) That the article known as China camel's hair comes almost invariably from Chinese ports and the so-called Russian camel's hair generally from Russian ports. In accordance with our findings of fact, we hold that the merchandise in question was correctly assessed for duty, and the protest is overruled. (12657— O. A. E306.) New York, April 4, 1892. Alpaca noils. — We find as facts: (1) That the protestants, Charles F. Murphy & Co., imported into the port of Boston, January 14, 1891, certain noils, upon which duty was assessed at the rate of 30 cents per pound, under paragraph 388 of the act of October 1, 1890. (2) That said noils were produced from the fleeces of animals known as the alpaca by scouring, oiling, and combing the same, by which process the long hair or tops are removed and the short hair or furry portion is combed into noils. (3) That for making certain soft fabrics some noils are more desirable than the mixed fibers. (4) That noils are not waste in fact nor commercially known as such. The protestants contend that "the noils provided for in paragraph 388 are those of or from wool only, and not from hair; that the hair of the alpaca is specifically named and provided for in paragraph 377, N. T., and made dutiable at 12 cents per pound by paragraph 384, N. T. ; that although in the form of noils, the merchandise is still nothing but the hair of the alpaca." It is well known that the merchandise called noils is a product obtained in a special form and condition by combing wool or the hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, or other like animal. The words "all other wastes composed wholly or in part of wool," as found in paragraph 388, do not, in our opinion, relate to or qualify noils and shoddy, for they are specially manufactured and intentionally produced, while some, and probably all, of the varieties of waste therein mentioned are in fact waste unavoidably and accidentally produced in the manufacture of yarns or fabrics. The manufacture of shoddy is a great industry. It is made fi om woolen and worsted rags, and its name implies to those familiar with the article that it is composed of WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 255 wool; therefore Congress could not have intended the words "all other wastes com- posed wholly or in part of wool" to apply to anything except what was distinctly known as waste. As noils are only produced from wool or combing hair, it was sufficient to provide for noils, and thus cover all noils. A perusal of the proceed- ings before Congress will show that it was impractical to provide separately for noils made from the different classes of wool or hair or to grade them, and therefore noils generally are comprehensively provided for in paragraph 388. We therefore hold that alpaca noils are provided for in paragraph 388, N. T., and it appearing that the duty was assessed as therein provided, the protest is overruled and the action of the collector affirmed. (12G80— -G. A. 1329.) Treasury Department, July 11, 1892. Wools on the skin. — In reply to your letter of the 5th instant, in which you ask to be referred to the instructions issued by the Department as to ascertaining the quantity and value of wools on the skin, as prescribed by paragraph 387, act of Octo- ber 1, 1890, 1 have to inform you that no instructions have been issued under said paragraph, but the instructions in force prior to the passage of said act and con- tained in the published decisions of the Department are applicable to such importa- tions. (13016.) New York, June 20, 1892. Skirted wool. — (1) We find as facts, that Wood Bros. & Co. imported into the port of New York, per steamer Bhaetia, December 12, 1891, certain wool, upon which the double duty of 64 per cent ad valorem was imposed, by virtue of the provisions of paragraphs 383 and 385, N. T. (2) We further find that said merchandise was wool of the third class, valued, including charges, at less than 13 cents per pound, and was not sorted wool, or wool from which a portion of the fleeces had been rejected to increase the value of the remainder thereof, but was wool of the kind known as skirted wool as imported at the time of the passage of the present tariff act. The importers claim that the same was dutiable at 32 per cent ad valorem, as wool of the third class valued at less than 13 cents per pound, dutiable under paragraph 385, N. T. In accordance with our findings of fact, we hold that the claim is well founded, and the protest is sustained. (13049 — Ci . A. 1 554.) New York, July 16, 1892. Dutiable charges — Cost of weighing wool, etc. — The appraiser in these cases added to the invoice price certain charges, to wit, charges incurred in weigh- ing, porterage, labor of pressing canvas and hoops to make dutiable value, and the collector included such charges in the value for classification of certain wool under section 19 of the act of June 10, 1890, which provides that whenever imported mer- chandise is subject to an ad valorem rate of duty, or to a duty based upon or regu- lated in any manner by the value thereof, the value of all cartons, cases, crates, boxes, sacks, and coverings of any kind, and all other costs, charges, and expenses incident to placing the merchandise in condition packed ready for shipment to the United States shall be part of the purchase price or foreign market value thereof. The protests claim that said charges were incurred after the bales of wool consti- tuting the importation were packed and in a condition ready for shipment, and hence that they were not dutiable. This is the issue made by the pleadings. 256 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. The cases were set for hearing on June 2, 1892, and one of the parties to the pro- test appeared and testified in his own behalf. But his testimony is by no means clear and it fails, we think, to establish the verity of the contentions of the several protests. To be sure, the witness swears that he buys wool "ex-warehouse," and states that "ex-warehouse" means " when it is ready for shipment." He adds: "I don't buy it in the country." On cross-examination by the representative of the Government, the witness admitted that he had never been in Smyrna, the place of export of the merchandise in question. To the question, "Do you know anything as to the course of business in Smyrna! " he replied, "Not positively ; no, sir." He finally admitted that he had never been in the places of export of any of the wool subject of the protests under consideration and that he knew nothing of the course of business in such places except by hear- say. The proof, in our opinion, is not sufficient to rebut the presumptions in favor of the verity of the reports of the local appraiser and of the return of the collector. The law of June 10, 1890, made certain charges hereinbefore alluded to dutiable which under previous laws had been nondutiable. This fact perhaps explains the indefinite character of the testimony offered by appellants. We find as facts : (1) That the various importations were made under the provisions of the new tariff act. (2) That the charges added by the appraiser and accepted as the basis of classifi- cation by the collector were incurred in placing the merchandise in condition ready for shipment to the United States. We therefore hold that the action of the collector was justified by both the law and the facts, and his decision is affirmed. (13194 — O. A. 1615.) New York, July 25, 1892. Waste wool. — The merchandise in this case consists of jute waste, classified and assessed for duty at 10 per cent ad valorem under paragraph 172 of the new tariff act, and of cotton and wool waste classified and assessed for duty at 30 cents per pound under paragraph 388 of said act. Appellants claim that said jute waste is entitled to free entry under paragraph 670 of said act and that said cotton and wool waste is entitled to free entry under paragraph 549 of said act. There was a hearing of the case on the 7th of June, 1892, at which appellants appeared and submitted samples of the merchandise subject of controversy. An examination of these samples shows the character of the merchandise : (1) The jute waste appears to be the refuse yarns thrown off in the process of manufacturing jute fabrics. (2) The cotton and wool waste is the refuse of a cotton and woolen factory, thrown off in the process of manufacturing cotton and woolen fabrics. Webster defines the word " waste" as " refuse; especially the refuse of cotton, silk, or the like." Paragraph 472 of the new tariff act, under which the jute waste was assessed for duty, is as follows : " Waste, not specially provided for in this act, 10 per centum ad valorem." Paragraph 388 of said act, under which the cotton and woolen waste was assessed for duty, is in part as follows : " On noils, shoddy, top waste, * * * and all other wastes composed wholly or in part of wool, the duty shall be 30 cents per pound." A mere statement of the facts strongly supports the correctness of the action of the collector; but the protest contributes somewhat to the same end. In that docu- ment, appellants say of the cotton and woolen waste: A very small percentage of woolen waste is contained in the bale, the great bulk of the contents being cotton waste, and that therefore the woolen waste, not being an appreciable amount, and only contained in the bale by accident, no duty should have been exacted upon the said bale, WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 257 It is clear from this admission that the so-called cotton and woolen waste is in part wool. In a late case, that of Knauth, Nachod & Kiilme v. The collector of New York, under date of June 10, 1892 (unpublished), the hoard held that a quan- tity of wool thread waste provided for in paragraph 388 of the new tariff net at 30 cents per pound could not be admitted to entry at 10 cents per pound under para- graph 389 of said act by mixing it with a larger quantity of mungo. We find as facts : (1) That the merchandise was imported under the new tariff act. (2) That the samples submitted at the hearing and marked Exhibit A and Ex- hibit Bare true samples of the merchandise under protest. (3) That sample marked Exhibit A is in part woolen waste, and rep :esents one bale of the merchandise, No. 81. (4) That sample marked Exhibit B is jute waste, consisting of refuse yarns thrown off in the process of manufacturing jute fabrics, and that there is no evidence tend- ing to show that it is designed for use as, or is ht only for, paper stock; that it is lit for other uses; and that it represents twelve bales, No. 80 and Nos. 82-92. On these facts we hold that the collector was justified in assessing the merchan- dise for duty. The protest is overruled and the decision of the collector affirmed. (13217— €J. A. 1038.) New York, Augusts, 1892. Women's and children's silk and worsted dress goods, silk chief value. — The merchandise in this case consists of women's and children's dress goods, com- posed of silk and worsted, classified and assessed for duty at 12 cents a square yard and 50 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 395 of the new tariff act. Appellants claim that they are entitled to enter the merchandise at 50 per cent ad valorem, under the provisions of paragraph 414 of said act, on the ground that the component material of chief value therein is silk ; that it is composed in part of worsted, and that it does not contain wool as a component material. The case was heard on May 13, 1892, and appellants appeared, and one of them, Charles Ophuls, was sworn as a witness. In the course of his examination he veri- fied a sample of the importation in question, and stated its use to be for women's and children's dress goods. The quantitative analysis of the aforementioned sample among the papers shows silk to be the component material of chief value therein. There is no dispute about the facts in this case. The pleadings present the single issue whether the merchandise under consideration is provided for in paragraph 395 of the new tariff act as classified by the collector, or in paragraph 414 of said act as claimed by appellants. Paragraph 414 is as follows: All manufactures of silk, or of which silk is the component material of chief value, not specially provided for in this act, 50 per cent ad valorem. Paragraph 395 is in part as follows : On women's and children's dress goods * * * and goods of similar description or character, composed wholly or in part of * * * worsted * * * and not specially provided for in this act, the duty shall be 12 cents per square yard, and in addition thereto 50 per cent ad valorem. It is in proof that the component material of chief value in the merchandise here is silk. This fact brings it within the terms of paragraph 414, unless it is specially provided for elsewhere in the act. But it is also in proof (1) that the merchandise is composed in part of worsted, and (2) is used for women's and children's dress goods; and women's and children's dress goods, composed in part of worsted, are enumerated in paragraph 395. It has been held that the words u manufactures of hair" are a sufficient designa- tion to place such manufactures among enumerated articles. (Nathan v. Butterfield, H. Mis. 94: 17 258 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 125 U. S., 70.) The description here in paragraph 395 is much more definite — " women's and children's dress goods " — and one of the appellants, a merchant, called as a witness, testifies that said merchandise is " used for women's and children's dress goods. It is also matter of common knowledge that such merchandise is known commercially as " women's and children's dress goods;" and the commercial desig- nation of an article among traders and importers, where such designation is clearly established, fixes the character for the purpose of the tariff laws. (Arthur v. Lahey^ 96 U. S., 11.) Hence the merchandise here, not less by reason of its commercial name than by the uses for which it is designed, answers to the enumeration of paragraph 395; " women's and children's dress goods * * * composed * * * in part of * * * worsted." We are warranted in making a comparison of paragraphs 414 and 395 with the view of ascertaining which of them governs the classification in the case at bar by the method pursued in Hartranft v. Meyer, 135 (U. S., 237). In that case the mer- chandise was raatelasse" cloth composed of silk, cotton, and wool, silk being the component of chief value. Schedule K, act of 1883, imposed a certain rate of duty upon " all manufactures of wool of every description, made wholly or in part of wool, not specially enumerated or provided for in this act." Schedule L of said act imposed a certain other rate of duty upon all goods, wares and merchandise, not specially enumerated or provided for in this act, made of silk or of which silk is the component material of chief value. Upon this state of facts the court remarked: If either schedule stood alone in the statutes obviously the goods would be dutia- ble under that schedule, for they were made in part of wool, as described in Sched- ule K, and they were goods of which silk is the component material of chief value, as described in Schedule L. " * * * It can not be assumed that Congress intended two rates for the same goods, to be selected at the pleasure of either the collector or the importer. In each schedule are found the words "not specially enumerated or provided for in this act," so that neither description is absolute or exclusive. We place no stress on the position of the two schedules in the act, or on the fact that Schedule L, coming after Schedule K, expresses the later thought and purpose of Congress, but we turn rather to the character of the descriptive language used in the one, it being more general than in the other. In Schedule K it is " made wholly or in part of wool," thereby reaching to all manufactured articles of which any por- tion is wool, while in Schedule L it is narrower and more limited, "made of silk, or of which silk is the component material of chief value." This is a special enumeration rather than the other. Further, the court quotes with approval the language of Mr. Justice Bradley, to the same effect in Solomon v. Arthur (102 U. S., 208). The reasoning of this decision is irresistible; and we may therefore well para- phrase it, not less on the ground of its force, as an argument, than on its conclusive- ness as an authority. The case at bar is parallel with the cases cited, but is more pronounced than either of them. The merchandise here is women's and children's dress goods, composed in part of worsted, silk being its component material of chief value. Paragraph 414 of the new tariff act imposes a certain rate of duty upon all manu- factures of silk or of which silk is the component material of chief value, not spec- ially provided for in said act; while paragraph 395 imposes a certain other rate of duty upon women's and children's dress goods, composed in part of worsted, not specially provided for in said act. It is obvious that if either of these paragraphs stood alone in the statutes, the merchandise would be dutiable under that paragraph ; for it is women's and chil- dren's dress goods, composed in part of worsted, and the component material of chief value therein is silk. Neither description is absolute or conclusive, because each paragraph contains the restrictive clause, " not specially enumerated or pro- vided for in this act," WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 259 Which of these descriptive provisions is the general and which the special enumer- ation? That in paragraph 414 — "all manufactures of silk or of which silk is the component material of chief value" — applies to a thousand and one articles made of silk, or of which silk is the component material of chief value — to every article of silk or of which silk is the component material of chief value not specially provided for in said act. It is obviously a provision of very wide application. Now, turning to the other paragraph — 395— we find all the conditions of a nar- rower and more definite enumeration, to wit : (1) goods composed in part of worsted ; (2) goods designed for a certain kind of garments, that is to say, for the making of dresses; (3) goods designed for dresses for a certain class of persons of the female sex, namely, women and children. In the language of Mr. Justice Brewer in the Hartranft and Meyer case, "this is a special enumeration rather than the other." Further paraphrasing the learned judge in the same case: Logically, the two phrases, standing together in the same body of laws, would be related as follows: All manufactures in which silk is the component material of chief value (paragraph 414), not specially provided for in said act, shall pay a duty of 50 per cent ad valorem ; but if such manufactures are women's and children's dress goods, and are composed in part of worsteds, they shall pay a duty of 12 cents a square yard and in addition thereto 50 per cent ad valorem. On the evidence, the record, and on common knowledge, obtained through inter- course with merchants and others in the course of the performance of our official duties, we find the following facts: (1) That the merchandise subject of protest was imported under the provisions of the new tariff act. (2) That it consists of women's and children's dress goods. (3) That it is composed in part of worsted, but the component material of chief value therein is silk. (4) That it is commercially known as women's and children's dress goods; and (5) That it is designed for use as, and is used for, women's and children's dress goods. In view of the facts, and under the law, we hold that the action of the collector was correct. The protest is overruled and the decision of the collector is affirmed. (13387. — O. A. 1667.) New York, August 18, 1892. Antique tidies made of worsted. — The goods covered by this protest are invoiced as " fancy antique tidies." The netting or foundation of these articles pre- sents the appearance of crochet work, but is in fact lace. The meshes of this lace are about one-half of 1 inch square, and are filled in with cotton threads, metal threads, and worsted yarn, respectively. The collector classified the merchandise as worsted embroidery, and assessed duty thereon at 60 cents per pound and 60 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 398, N. T. Of the several claims made by the appellants in their protest the Board will refer to but one, namely : That the merchandise is dutiable at 60 per cent ad valorem as cotton lace. This claim, in our opinion, is well founded. The worsted and metal work applied to the cotton lace does not partake of the nature of embroidery. This work is performed by machinery, and consists of filling certain of the meshes with worsted yarn and metal thread, by wrapping these substances about the cotton threads forming the squares or meshes, and thus creating an effect indifferently resembling embroidery. We make these findings of facts as to the merchandise: (1) It is known commercially as lace tidies. 260 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. (2) These articles are composed of cotton, metal, and worsted, of which materials cotton in the finished state is the greatest in value. (3) These tidies are not embroidered by hand or machinery. In accordance with these findings, we hold the goods are dutiable at 60 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 373, N. T., and to this extent sustain the protest. (13296.— G. A., 1670.) New York, September 17, 1892. Miners' hats of wool and resin. — The goods in question are molded into the form of hats and are invoiced as hats. They are intended to be worn by miners, and are composed of resin and wool. Duty was assessed upon these articles at V6\ cents per pound and 30 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 393, as hats of wool. The appellants claim the articles to be dutiable at 10 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 24, as resin advanced in condition by a process of manufacture, or at 20 per cent ad valorem, in accordance with the provisions of section 4, act of October 1, 1890. The Board is in possession of a quantitative analysis of a sample of the merchan- dise and the relative value per pound of the several component parts thereof, and we find as facts that wool is the component material of chief value entering into the fabrication of the goods in question and that they are hats of wool- The protest is overruled and the collector's decision is affirmed. (13350. — O. A 1760.) Treasury Department, Octoher, 21, 1892. Wool on shearling sheepskins.— The Department having, on the 23d of August last, designated a committee to establish a dividing line between shearling sheep- skins, the wool on which has no commercial value and may be admitted free, and those on which the wool is sufficiently long to be subject to classification and, con- sequently, to duty, said committee, on the 19th instant, submitted the following report, which is hereby adopted as the rule for the guidance of customs officers in the classification of imported shearling sheepskins: The wool on all shearlings has a commercial value, but from the investigations made by this committee we are of the opinion that the avooI on shearling sheepskins which does not exceed one quarter of an inch in length on the body of the pelt is of such little value that the wool should be passed free of duty, and that all shearling skins where the wool exceeds one-quarter of an inch in length should be subject to duty. (13419.) New York, August 4, 1891. Sorted third-class wool. — The protests filed in these cases involve the con- struction of paragraph 383, Schedule K, of the tariff act of October 1, 1890, and especially of what is commonly known as the wool " sorting clauses" of said para- graph. We append the entire paragraph, as follows, for a full understanding of its pro- visions : 383. The duty upon wool of the sheep or hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, or other like animals which shall be imported in any other than ordinary condition, or which shall be changed in its character or condition for the purpose of evading the duty, or which shall be reduced in value by the admixture of dirt or any other foreign substance, or which has been sorted or increased in value by the rejection of any part of the original fleece, shall be twice the duty to which it would be otherwise subject: Provided, That skirted wools as now imported are hereby excepted. Wools on which a duty is assessed amounting to three times or more than that which would be assessed if said wool was imported unwashed, such duty shall not be doubled on account of its being sorted. If any bale or package of wool or hair specified in this act imported as of any specified class or claimed by the WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 261 importer to be dutiable as of any specified class shall contain any wool or hair sub- ject to a higher rate of duty than the class so specified, the whole bale or package shall be subject to the highest rate of duty chargeable on wool of the class subject to such higher rate of duty, and if any bale or package be claimed by the importer to be shoddy, mungo, hocks, wool, hair, or other material of any class specified in this act, and such bale contain any admixture of any one or more of said materials, or of any other material, the* whole bale or package shall be subject to duty at the highest rate imposed upon any article in said bale or package. The merchandise in the case of E. S. Higgins & Co. (No. 10362a) is returned to the local appraiser as " wool of the third class/' a " portion of it costing over 13 cent, per pound, and the rest costing under 13 cents per pound sorted." In the case of H. C. Thacher (No. 11106a), the merchandise was also returned as wool of the third class, valued at less than 13 cents per pound, which is stated to have been "sorted." The wool was accordingly returned for duty at 64 and 100 per cent ad valorem respectively, under paragraphs 378, 383, 385, and 386, these rates being assessed as "twice the duty" to which such merchandise would "be otherwise subject" within the supposed meaning of said paragraph 383, i. e., twice 32 and 50 per cent, respectively. The following specific contentions are raised in these cases : (1) That the provisions of paragraph 383, relating to the subject of " sorting," or, in other words, the sorting clauses of said paragraph, are inapplicable to wools of the third class, and w r ere never intended by Congress to be so applied. (2) That "sorting/' within the meaning of said paragraph, includes only such manipulation of wools by the rejection of apart of the original fleece as may result in an increase of value, and that sorts composed of the inferior portions of the fleeces can not be held liable to double duty, even if those increased in value are so liable. (3) That the grading of the wools by a separation of the fleeces merely according to colors is not "sorting" within the proper signification of that word. (4) That if liable to double duty as sorted wool, the duty should be doubled only in its value in an unsorted and not a sorted condition. We have afforded adverse interests (the woolgrowers and carpet manufacturers, including other importers) a full opportunity to be heard on these questions, enter- taining as we do a due appreciation of the difficulties involved in their proper solu- tion. These difficulties are enhanced by the manifest fact that paragraph 383 of the present tariff act, where the wool " sorting clause" appears for the first time, seems to have been formulated amid the struggles of these contending interests, each seek- ing to obtain a law expressive of the views now contended for in the opposite con- structions respectively insisted on by them before this board in argument. In construing legislation on this subject no great light is obtained by going beyond the act of March 2, 1867 (14 Stat, at Large, 559), entitled "An act to provide increased revenue from imported wool, and for other purposes," which for the first time pro- vided for a classification of wools into three classes, designated as "clothing wools," "combing wools," and "carpet and other similar wools." (Rev. Stat., 1878, pp. 470, 471.) The language of that act was not changed by the act of March 3, 1883, paragraph 356 of which reads as follows (Elmes's Law of Customs, p. 435) : 356. The duty on wools of the first class which shall be imported washed shall be twice the amount of the duty to which they would be subjected if imported unwashed ; and the duty on wools of all classes which shall be imported scoured shall be three times the duty to which they would be subjected if imported unwashed. The duty upon wool of the sheep, or hair of the alpaca, goat, and other like animals, which shall be imported in any other than ordinary condition, as now and heretofore prac- ticed, or which shall be changed in its character or condition for the purpose of evading the duty, or which shall be reduced in value by the admixture of dirt or any other foreign substance, shall be twice the duty to which it would be otherwise subject. • 262 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. It is a settled rule of legal construction that in construing a tariff revenue system consisting of various acts passed at different times, each alteration is to be regarded in connection with the entire system, and "no disturbance will be allowed of exist- ing legislative rules of general application beyond the clear intention of Congress." (Saxonville Mills v. Russell, 116 U. 8., 13.) The leading purpose of the paragraph under consideration is to prevent frauds on the revenue by changing the ordinary character or condition of wool in any of the modes specified so as to increase the embarrassments attending its classification and the estimate of its market value. To this end the law levies a double duty with certain exceptions for the following acts of manipulation as applied to "wool of the sheep or hair of the camel, alpaca, and other like animals," when imported into this country : (1) If such merchandise is "imported in any other than ordinary condition," i. e., as practiced at the time the tariff act was passed, and prior thereto. (2) If the merchandise is "changed in its character or condition for the purpose of evading the duty." (3) If "reduced in value by the admixture of dirt or any other foreign substance." (4) If "sorted or increased in value by the rejection of any part of the original fleece." (5) If two or more specified classes of wool or hair are mingled in any one bale or package, the whole bale or package is subject to the higher rate of duty to which any part is subject. Keeping in view this analysis of the law and the purposes of its enactment, we proceed to consider the several contentions raised by the protest: (1) We can see no escape from the conclusion that paragraph 383, including the sorting clauses, is applicable to wools of every class. It enumerates, generally, "wool of the sheep or hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, or other like animals," and refers to the duties on these articles. No distinction is made as to the different classes of wools or hair. No exception's made of the third class, nor is any other qualification affixed limiiing its application. We are not authorized to introduce an exception or qualification to a statute which Congress has not introduced in the language of the law, if such language, as here, is clear and unambiguous. (Potter's* Dwarris Stat., 200.) So far as concerns the letter of paragraph 383, there is just as much reason for excepting wool of the third class from its other penal conditions as from the one relating to "sorting." That duties may be doubled on account of sorting is clear, moreover, from the fol- lowing clause in said paragraph: " Wools on which a duty is assessed amounting to three times or more than that which would be assessed if said wool was imported unwashed, such duty shall not be doubled on account of its being sorted" It is true that in the debates of the U. S. House of Representatives, when cer- tain amendments made to this paragraph were the subject of discussion, the chairman of the Committee on Ways and Means is reported to have interpreted it as imposing only simple ad valorem duties upon wool of the third class. That opinion can not change the legal construction of the law where the meaning is otherwise plain. The parliamentary history of an enactment is often consulted to throw light upon clauses of doubtful meaning, but generally the sound rule of construction, as stated by a standard author, is that "courts are not at liberty to recur to the views of individual members of the legislature in debate to ascertain the meaning of a statute, or, at the most, the views so expressed as to the object and effect of partic- ular provisions of an act under discussion are entitled to very little weight." (End- lich on Interpretation of Statutes, § 30, p. 41.) And this is the doctrine of the U. S. Supreme Court itself. (United States v. Union Pacific R. R. Co., 91 U. S., 72.) The law, moreover, is the concurrent language of the Senate and of the President wko approved it, as well as of the House, and there is nothing to indicate WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 263 that this concurring body or department intended it to speak anything not expressed in its language. The arguments urged as to the injustice resulting from this conclusion, or showing the embarrassments attending the practical application of the law as thus construed, are more properly addressed to the lawmaking power. We can not be properly influenced by them as factors in construing the law, which is our only function. We accordingly decide that the " sorting clauses" of said paragraph apply to all wools, including those of the third class. (2) The contention is further made, and, in our judgment, is correctly taken, that the word " sorting," as used in the paragraph under consideration (383), must be construed according to its statutory definition, as there specified. It is limited, so far as double duties are concerned, to such portions of the fleeces as have been increastd in value per pound above the value of the entire fleece from which the wool was taken. The language is u which has been sorted or increased in value by the rejection of any part of the original fleece." These alternative phrases, in our judgment, are to be construed as equivalent in meaning. " Sorting," it is true, as usually defined, means that process preliminary to wool manufacturing necessary to lit the article for textile purposes, which consists in clas- sifying by separation the fibers of the fleece as clipped from the sheep's body, " ac- cording to length, fineness, elasticity, and soundness of staple." The wool varies in quality in different parts of the animal, as many as twelve or fourteen " sorts" being sometimes obtained from a single fleece, but frequently not more than from five to seven qualities. This is fully explained in the testimony of experts taken before the board, as well as by reputable works on wool manufacture. (Spon's Eiicyc. of Manf. and Raw Materials, vol. 2, p. 2060; Beaumont's Woolens and Worsted Cloth Manf., p. — .) Our reasons for holding that the " sorting," as here referred to, is confined to that process which increases the value of the sorted article above the average per pound before sorting, are the following : The statute is to be construed in the light of the evil intended to be remedied by it. Prior to its enactment it was a practice prevail- ing among the carpet manufacurers of this country to sort wool of the third class by rejecting the inferior qualities of the fleece so as to increase the value of the remainder and to import the superior quality thus obtained, leaving the other behind uuimported. This fact was brought to the attention of the Committee on Ways and Means in the U. S. House of Representatives and made the basis of a specific complaint by the woolgrowers, who were contending for protective rates of duty for their particular industry of sheepraising. Moreover, a rejection of any part of the fleece, so as to increase it in value above the average, is a mode of sorting in itself and would be tautological, unless intended to define the word so as to con- fine its meaning to this process involving the rejection of the inferior qualities of the fleece. (3) We are satisfied, furthermore, that a grading of wools by assembling the whole fleeces according to colors merely is not a sorting of such wools within the meaning of the statute under consideration. The evidence before the board shows that the practice for thirty years past has been to grade East India wools according to color, and that this process is not regarded as " sorting" within the ordinary signification of that word. And we so decide. (4) The fourth contention involves the construction of the phrase " shall be twice the duty to which it (the wool or hair) would be otherwise subject." As applied to wools, sorted by rejection of any part of the original fleece so as to increase it in value above the average per pound, this clearly means that the duty on the sorted wool shall be twice that to which the fleece in its unsorted condition would be liable. (Arthur v. Pastor, 109 U. S., 139.) 264 WOOL AXD MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. (5) The " skirted wools," referred to in paragraph 383 by way of exception in the proviso, mean fleeces from which the skirts have been removed by clipping. The "skirts" embrace portions of the stained or inferior locks taken from the belly and legs, and, sometimes, from the neck. Wools merely skirted without further manip- ulation are not regarded as sorted within the meaning of said paragraph 383, nor are they otherwise subject to the penalties there prescribed by reason of being skirted. We find as matter of fact in these cases: (1) That the importation in each case embraces wool of the third class, within the meaning of paragraph 378 of the present tariff law. (2) The portion returned by the appraiser as costing over 13 cents per pound was of this value, and that returned as costing less than this sum was of the value so stated. (3) That the merchandise is East India wool, and that it has been the common practice to import this kind of wool into the United States separated or sorted as to colors the past twenty or thirty years. (4) The merchandise has not been changed in its character or condition for the pur- pose of evading the duty, nor has it been reduced in value by the admixture of dirt or any other foreign substance. (5) In the case of Higgins & Co. there has been a separation of the importation as to color into gray, yellow, and white wools, and a separation as to quality of the white wools, but not as to the gray and the yellow. The gray and yellow have depreciated in value per pound below the average value of the lot before separation: but the white wool has appreciated in value by reason of a separation as to quality. The average value of the gray, yellow, and white we find to have been about 12 cents. The average value of the white we find to be about 18 cents. (6) We find that the collector estimated the duty on all of these wools by making it twice what it would have been on the value of the wool in its present condition and not in its condition prior to manipulation by assorting. (7) We find that the white wool in the importation of Higgins & Co., in addition to the process of classifying as to color, has also been further separated and classi- fied as to quality so as to increase its value. It is therefore " sorted' 7 within the meaning of paragraph 383. The gray and the yellow wool has not been so " sorted. " (8) The wool covered by the protest in the case of Thatcher & Co. has been reduced and not increased in value by the rejection of a portion of the original fleece, i. e., reduced below the average value per pound of the whole fleece from which it was taken. These views operate to reverse the collector's decision in each importation, which decisions, it is proper to state, seem to have been made in deference to a suggestion made by the Secretary of the Treasury designed to bring the " sorting clauses" of the present tariff law before this board for construction. It is proper to add that in reliquidating the entries proper regard must be had to the limitation imposed by the following clause of said paragraph 383: " Wools on which a duty is assessed amounting to three limes or more than that which could be assessed if said wool was imported unwashed, such duty shall not be doubled on account of its being sorted." So the duty can not be " assessed upon an amount less than the invoice or entered value," as generally provided in section 7 of the act of June 10, 1890. The decision of the collector in each case is reversed, and he is authorized to reliquidate the entries according to law. (G. A. 797*) New York, December 4, 1891. Embroidered woolen robes. — The goods in question are so-called robes. They consist of combination dress patterns composed of wool. The portion of the mate- WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL.. 265 riali n tended for the skirts of the dresses is plain, and the remainder is more or less elaborately embroidered with silk. The goods were invoiced as entireties and were so returned for duty under para- graph 398, act October 1, 1890, at 60 cents per pound and 60 per cent ad valorem, the rate provided therein for " embroideries,* 7 composed of wool, worsted, the hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, or other animals, and made applicable to these goods by the pro- visions of paragraph 373 of the said act. At the hearing in the case counsel for the importers appeared before the board and advanced the following argument in support of the protest : (1) That the goods in question are subject to no greater duty than 44 cents per pound and 50 per cent ad valorem, in accordance with the provisions of paragraph 395, upon the grounds that although the merchandise is a textile fabric composed of wool, embroidered by hand or machinery with silk, the proviso attached to par- graph 373 is so grammatically constructed that the words " materials of which they are respectively composed'* refer to the noun " embroideries," and not to wearing apparel and textile fabrics ; consequently the proviso, so far as it applies to the goods in question, must be construed as if reading " textile fabrics embroidered with silk shall not pay a less rate of duty than 60 per cent ad valorem, the rate fixed upon embroideries of silk," and inasmuch as 60 per cent ad valorem is less than 44 cents per pound and 50 per cent in the present case, the last-named rate (which is the rate claimed in the protest) prevails. (2) That the merchandise is of two kinds, separately provided for in the tariff, the value of each kind easy of determination, and that the appraising officer should have stated the value of the embroideries and plain fabrics and the collector asses- sed only upon the goods at the respective rates applicable thereto. The first contention of the appellants is, in our opinion, without force. The subject of the proviso attached to paragraph 373 is wearing apparel and textile fabrics embroidered by hand or machinery, and the words "materials of which they are respectively composed" relate to the subject-matter of the sentence. Without stopping to consider how this sentence should have been grammatically constructed, we find no difficulty in arriving at the intent of Congress in framing the proviso under consideration, viz, that textile fabrics composed of wool, when embroidered by hand or machinery, should be treated for dutiable purposes as if they were embroideries composed of wool. In Sullivan v. Robertson, (37 Fed. Rep., 778) Judge Lacombe said : " The statutes are not to be construed by any mere strict or critical interpretation according to grammatical rules. " This we esteem to be a sound principle of revenue law. We accordingly overrule the first contention of the appellants. In G. A. 888 the Board held that the appraiser at Boston acted correctly in segre- gating the value of embroidered and plain materials composing dress patterns sim- ilar to the merchandise in dispute, and we incline to the opinion that the several parts of the so-called robes covered by this protest should have been treated in the same manner. It would be a hardship to impose a higher rate of duty at one port than at another upon similar goods. The statutes must be construed, under the la w, with a view to securing uniformity at all ports. The so-called robes in this case are dress patterns, consisting of two pieces of cloth, not fashioned or further manufactured than cut into suitable lengths to be made into robes. The pieces are subject to different rates of duty, and the appraiser should have appraised the value of the respective kinds, and the duty fixed by law should have been imposed thereon. To this extent the protest is sustained, and the entry should be so reliquidated. (€r. A, 1066.) (a) a Modified by Nr>. 13983— G. A. 2088. 266 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Treasury Department, January 27, 189S. Worsted and silk goods. — The Depaitment is in receipt of a letter, dated the 13th instant, from the U. S. attorney for the southern district of New York, in which he reports the trial, on the 3d instant, of the so-called appraiser's suit No. 76, arising on the application of Mr. George M. B. Mudge for a review of the decision of the Board of General Appraisers at New York concerning the dutiable classifica- tion of certain merchandise imported by him in July, 1890, in which a verdict was rendered in favor of the importer. It appears that the goods in controversy were composed in part of worsted and in part of silk, silk being the component material of chief value, which the collector classified as dutiable at the rates prescribed by paragraph 365 of the act of March 3, 1883, for goods composed in part of wool, worsted, etc., against which the importer protested, claiming that the goods were dutiable at the rate only of 50 per cent ad valorem as manufactures of silk, under the provisions of paragraph 383 of said act, and took the case to the Board of U. S. General Appraisers, who affirmed the decision of the collector, whereupon the importer appealed to the court under sec- tion 15 of the act of June 10, 1890, with the result as aforesaid. The district attorney states that the court reversed the decision of the collector and the Board of II. S. General Appraisers, under the authority of Hartranft v. Meyer (135 U. S., 237) and Liebenroth v. Robertson (144 U. S., 35), wherein the principle is enunciated that " instead of making duty depend on the highest rate at which any component part is chargeable, it is made to depend on the highest rate at which the component material of chief value is chargeable." Upon submitting the matter to the U. S. Attorney-General, under the provisions of section 15 of the act of June 10, 1890, that officer advises this Department that the case will not be pursued in a higher court. You are therefore hereby authorized to take measures looking to a refund of the duty exacted in excess on the goods in question. (13051.) New York, December 21, 1892. Chinese trousers. — The merchandise in question consists of Chinese trousers, which the appellants claim are made of cotton and down, or feathers, and as such dutiable under paragraphs 355, 349, or 443, N. T. The exhibit in the case was submitted to the chemist in charge of the laboratory connected with the U. S. appraisers' department at New York for analysis. That officer reports that he has examined the articles and they are found to consist for the most part of wool of the Donskoi quality, hard spun or twisted. The wool is the material greatly preponderating in weight and value over the other components. We find as facts that the merchandise is clothing, ready-made, composed wholly or in part of wool, and hold that duty was properly assessed thereon at 49£ cents per pound and 60 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 396, N. T. The protest is over- ruled, and the collector's decision is affirmed. ( lJi674 — C*. A. 1912.) Treasury Department, February 15, 1S93. Worsted silk embroidered shawls. — The Department is in receipt of a letter, dated the 10th instant, from the U. S attorney for the southern district of New York, in which he reports that the appeal of the United States from the judgment of the U. S. circuit court at New York in the case of certain worsted silk embroidered shawls, imported by Sehefer, Schramm & Vogel, has been decided by the U. S. circuit court of appeals in favor of the importers. The facts in the case appear to be that the above-named parties imported per Citfic, April 22, 1891, and per The Queen, April 30, 1891, certain shawls composed of worsted WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 267 and embroidered with silk, returned by the appraiser as duitable at the rate of 60 cents per pound and 60 per cent ad valorem, under the provision found in paragraph 398 of the act of October 1, 1890, which provides those rates for embroideries of which worsted is a component material, and the proviso of paragraph 373, the importers claiming that the goods were dutiable either at the rates applicable to manufactures made wholly or in part of worsted, provided for in paragraph 392, or at the rate of 49^ cents per pound and 60 per cent ad valorem as wearing apparel, under the pro- visions of paragraph 396 of said act; that npon taking the case to the Board of U. S. General Appraisers, the decision of the collector was affirmed {see G. A. 1061 in in a similar case), whereupon the parties applied to the court, under the provisions of section 15 of the act of June 10, 1890, and obtained a verdict sustaining their con- tention that the goods were dutiable under paragraph 392 as manufactures made wholly or in part of worsted, and reversing the decision of the collector and the Board of the U. S. General Appraisers. Upon the rendition of this decision, and under the advice of the U. S. Attorney-General, the case was appealed by the Gov- ernment to the circuit court of appeals with the result aforesaid. The language of the circuit court of appeals is as follows : The collector imposed a duty of 60 cents per pound and 60 per cent ad valorem under paragraph 398 of the same act, which placed that duty upon embroideries made of worsted, and under the general proviso contained in paragraph 373 of the same act, which is as follows: "Provided, That articles of wearing apparel and textile fabrics, when embroidered by hand or machinery, and whether specially or otherwise proAdded for in this act, shall not pay a less rate of duty than that fixed by the respective paragraphs and. schedules of this act upon embroideries of the material of which they are respec- tively composed." Silk embroideries are dutiable under the act of 1890 at 60 per cent ad valorem, a less rate of duty than that upon worsted shawls. Flax, jute, and cotton embroideries are also dutiable at 60 per cent ad valorem. The importers' protest was upon the theory that, as the shawls did not contain worsted embroideries, they were not dutiable under paragraph 398, and as a less duty was imposed npon silk embroideries than upon worsted shawls, the importa- tions were properly dutiable under paragraph 392. The question depends upon the proper construction of the quoted proviso con- tained in paragraph 373. The Government contends that embroidered articles shall not pay a less rate of duty than that fixed upon embroideries of any of the materials of which the articles are composed ; for example, a worsted shawl, with silk or cotton or jute embroidery, shall not pay less than the rate imposed upon worsted embroideries. This construc- tion is grammatically consistent with the language of the proviso, but is incon- sistent with its apparent object. The entire wool and worsted schedule shows that it was the intention of Congress to place a very high rate of duty upon articles manufactured from wool or worsted, and this intent is as plainly manifested in the worsted-embroidery section as in any other clause. Very plain language is required to make it manifest that the further intent of Congress was that a worsted fabric, when embroidered with cotton, should pay the same rate of duty that is imposed upon worsted embroideries. The proviso by no means requires or compels such a construction. The main object of the proviso was to prevent a classification by their specific names of articles embroidered with some material, which classification might enable them to be dutiable at a lower rate of duty than is imposed upon embroideries of that material. The proviso therefore prescribes that such articles shall not pay a less rate of duty than is imposed upon embroideries of that material, but they may be dutiable at a greater rate because a higher duty may be imposed upon articles of that specific description. Thus an article of wearing apparel, of whatever material composed, which is embroidered with silk, shall not pay a less rate of duty than that imposed on silk embroideries. The proviso guarded against the importation of embroideries at a lower rate of duty than was imposed upon them under the claim that the article was not embroidery but a textile fabric or wearing apparel. The intent was to preserve the rates of duty which the statute imposes upon the embroid- eries specified therein, but it was not to make articles not embroidered with a material pay the same rate as if they had been embroidered with that material. You are, therefore, hereby authorized to take measures looking to a refund of the duties exacted in excess on the importation in question, and you will apply these 268 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. instructions to all similar cases pending at your port where the parties have duly protected their rights under the provisions of the act of June 10, 1890. (13731 ) Treasury Department, February 16, 1893. Wool on sheepskins. — The Department duly received your letter of the 17th ultimo, in which you request to be advised as to whether, in case of estimation of the amount of wool or hair on sheep or Angora goatskins by an appraising officer the importer holds such estimate to be excessive, "there is any appeal open to the importer for review of the appraiser's action/ 7 In reply, you are informed that inasmuch as the action of the appraiser in the case in question relates to the quantity of wool on the imported skins and not to its value, the opinion of General Appraiser Lunt, referred to in your additional letter of the same date, to the effect that such action is not subject to review by applica- tion for reappraisement, appears to be correct. Inasmuch, however, as the amount of duty assessed by the collector on such wool necessarily depends upon its quantity as well as its value, the importer may obtain, after payment of the duty under protest, a review of the collector's decision in the manner provided for by section 14 of the act of June 10, 1890. (13 1 32«) Treasury Department, February 16, 1898. Woolen rugs. — The Department is in receipt of a letter dated the 10th instant, from the U. S. attorney for the southern district of New York, in which he reports that on the 7th instant the U. S. circuit court of appeals at New York handed down a decision reversing that of the U. S. circuit court at New York in the suit of David B. Ingersoll et al. against Daniel Magone (N. S., 13955), in regard to the dutiable clas- sification of certain articles invoiced as 16 woolen rugs." It appears that during the year 1888, the parties named imported from England into your port the rugs in question, which were classified for duty according to value under paragraph 362 of the act of March 3, 1883, which is as follows: Woolen cloths, woolen shawls, and all manufactures of wool of every description, made wholly or in part of wool, not specially enumerated or provided for in this act, valued at not exceeding eighty cents per pound, thirty-five cents per pound and thirty-five per centum ad valorem; valued at above eighty cents per pound, thirty- rive cents per pound, and in addition thereto forty per centum ad valorem. Against which classification the importers protested, and appealed under the pro- visions of section 2931, Revised Statutes, claiming that the goods were "traveling or carriage rugs," and properly dutiable at the rate of 40 per cent ad valorem only under paragraph 378 of said act, which provides as follows: Carpets and carpetings of wool, flax, or cotton, or parts of either or other mate- rial, not otherwise herein specified, forty per centum ad valorem; and mats, rugs, screens, covers, hassocks, bedsides, and other portions of carpets or carpetings, shall be subjected to the rate of duty herein imposed on carpets or carpeting of like character or description; and the duty on all other mats not exclusively of vegeta- ble material, screens, hassocks, and rugs, shall be forty per centum ad valorem. (Synopsis 8702.) Upon taking the case to the courts under the provisions of said section 2931 of the Revised Statutes, the circuit court at New York on the 18th of February, 1891, ren- dered a verdict in favor of the defendant (collector), whereupon the importers filed a bill of exceptions and took the case to the U. S. Supreme Court, whence it was rel- egated to the U. S. circuit court of appeals, with the result aforesaid. In the written opinion handed down by the circuit court of appeals the following language is used: The leading argument in favor of the collector's classification, and which met the approval of the circuit judge, is that the fact that rugs having been uniformly placed WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 269 in the tariff acts since 1861, in connection with provisions for carpets and carpeting and articles used on floors, and the principle oinoscitur a socius shows the intent of Con- gress to limit the meaning of the term rug to articles of a character akin to carpets or mats, but it must he observed that screens, which are not used as a covering and which are not akin to carpeting, were also included in the same paragraph. Inasmuch as the word rug had gradually come to acquire a meaning which included a woolen fabric, either when used for protecting a carpet or for protecting the per- son, so that the authors of a standard dictionary, published in this country in 1875, defined the word accordingly, and the article was in common use under the distin- guishing name of traveling rug, we think the fair inference to be that Congress in 1883 intended to use the word in the meaning which it had previously fully attained. The judgment of the circuit court is reversed. You are therefore hereby authorized to take measures looking to a payment of this judgment, and you will apply these instructions to all similar cases arising at your port where the importers have duly protected their rights under the provisions of the act of June 10, 1890, or section 2931 of the Revised Statutes. (13734.^ Treasury Department, February 21, 1893. Wool samples. — Paragraph 379 of the act of October 1, 1890, provides as follows : The standard samples of all wools which are now or may be hereafter deposited in the principal custom-houses of the United States, under the authority of the Sec- retary of the Treasury, shall be the standards for the classification of wools under this act, and the Secretary of the Treasury shall have the authority to renew these standards and to make such additions to them from time to time as may be required, and he shall cause to be deposited like standards in other custom-houses of the United States when they may be needed. And paragraph 380 of said act provides that— Whenever wools of class 3 shall have been improved by the admixture of Me- rino or English blood from their present character, as represented by the standard samples now or hereafter to be deposited in the principal custom-houses of the United States, such improved wools shall be classified for duty either as class 1 or as class 2, as the case may be. In pursuance of the above provisions of law the Department, in April, 1891, ap- pointed the following committee to advise the Department as to the propriety of adding to or renewing the standard wool samples then in use: Mr. Edward A. Greene, of Philadelphia, Pa. (chairman) ; Mr, John T. Eich, of Elba, Mich. ; Mr. Nicholas Mauger, of New York City; Mr. John L. Houston, of Hartford, Conn. In their final report, which is dated February 15, 1893, the committee remark that the principle of classification recognized by them was that of race and blood only and not that of use or adaptability ; and they further state tha t, in their classifica- tion, it will be found that there are wools in the first class suitable only for carpets and others in the third class from which a fair article of clothing could be made. Cabinets of the standard samples prepared by the committee will be furnished to the collectors at all of the principal ports. The committee recommend that samples of such wools as are lacking from the cabinets prepared by them should be procured and added to the cabinets; also, that the customs examiners at the several ports should take samples of any wools not included in the standard samples, and should advise the Department whether such wools should be added to the cabinets. The committee further recommend that, in order to indicate the different classes, samples of noils should be numbered upward from No. 1,. first-class wool from No. 101, second-class wool from No. 201, third-class wool from No. 301, and free hair from No. 401. The samples contained in the cabinets are numbered as in the following list, and are hereby established as standards for comparison in the examination and classi- fication of wools, pursuant to the provisions of the act of October 1, 1890, entitled "An act to reduce the revenue and equalize duties on imports, and for other pur- poses. 1 ' (13740.) (a) a Modified by No. 14197. 270 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. List of ivhole fleece or large standard samples to he used in cases of litigation. Class 1. From America: A. Argentine Republic. — 1. Buenos Ayres — 104. Fleece unwashed, Lincoln crossbred. From Africa : 1. Algeria — 127. Benghazi, fleece unwashed. 2. Morocco — 132. Larash Beldia, fleece unwashed. From Africa : 137. Cape of Good Hope, native skin wool, not limed. 138. Cape of Good Hope, native skin wool, limed. From Asia : 1. Turkey — 145. Improved, fleece unwashed. 146. Panorme, fleece washed. From Europe : 1. Austria — 147. Buda-Pesth, Zigaya skin wool. 149. Flam an tine skin wool. 150. Flamantine skin wool. 2. .France — 156. Marseilles chalk skin wool, medium. 157. Marseilles chalk skin wool, coarse. 3. Wales— 164. Fleece washed. 4. Italy— 167. Lambskin wool. 5. Portugal. 171. Alentijo, fleece unwashed. 6. Spain — 173. Churro, fleece unwashed. 174. Talavera, fleece unwashed. 7. Turkey — 175. Adrianople, fleece washed. 176. Adrianople, fleece unwashed, from Imperial factory, 178. Kassapbatchia skin wool, super. 179. Kassapbatchia skin wool, second quality. 182. Kassapbatchia skin wool, super white. 185. Rodosto fleece, first quality. 186. Rodosto fleece, second quality. 187. Varnay Zigay, fleece unwashed. Class 2. From South America : 1. Peru— 201. Islay, alpaca fleece, all colors. From Asia : 1. China — 209. Camel's hair, first quality, 2. Turkey— 214. Mohair fleece. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. From Europe : 1. England — 233. Goat hair, mixed skins, Russian, Cape, Italian, etc. 237. Cape mohair, crossbred, sold as mohair. 2. Scotland— 239. Black face and cheviot, fleece washed, half-bred hogs. 242. Black face and cheviot, fleece washed, half-bred hogs. 243. Black face and Leicester, fleece washed, half-bred hogi 247. Black face and Leicester lambskin wool. Class 3. From America : 1. Argentine Republic — 301. Cordoba, fleece unwashed. 2. Chile— 302. Valparaiso Criolla, fleece unwashed. From Asia: 1. Afghanistan — 306. Kandahar, first white. 307. Kandahar, original fleeces. 2. China— 308. China wool. 312. Thibet, fleece washed. 3. East India — 315. Joria, first white. 321. Vicaneer, first white. 4. Georgia — 323. B, first and second clip. 324. A. B. and A. O., lamb's. * 325. B. O., first clip, fleece washed. 326. B. S., first clip, fleece washed. 5. Persia — 328. Bagdad, white. 329. Bokhara, white fleece. 330. Bokhara, black fleece. 331. Khorassan fleeces, first clip. 333. Mosul or Awassi fleeces. 6. Syria— 334. Aleppo, fleece unwashed. 335. Orfa, fleece unwashed. 7. Turkey— 336. Armenia Erzroom, fleece. 338. Angora Samsum, fleece Avashed. 339. Angora Eskishehr, fleece washed, 340. Bouldor, fleece washed. 341. Karadi, fleece washed. 342. Smyrna, limed skin wool. From Africa : 1. Egypt— 346. Washed, extra choice. 347. Washed skin, extra choice. From Europe : 1. Austria — 348. Buda-Pesth, Zackel skm wooL 272 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. From Europe — Continued. 2. England — 349. Herd wick, fleece washed. 350. Black face Highland haslock, pulled in England. 3. Scotland— 352. Black face Highland, fleece washed, white. 354. Black face Highland, fleece unwashed, dipped. 356. Black face Highland, sorted haslock, Glasgow pulling. 359. Black face Highland haslock, Kilmarnock pulling. 360. Black face Highland haslock, Bonnington pulling. 361. Black face Highland, laid fleece. 363. Black face Highland, fleece unwashed and undipped. 364. Black face Highland, fleece unwashed and undipped. 365. Black face fleece. 4. Greece — 366. Fleece nnwashed, shipped from Prevesa, Turkey, 5. Holland — 367. Native, fleece washed. 6. Italy— 368. Coarse skin wool. 7. Iceland — 369. Washed wool, average. 370. Washed wool, average. 8. Portugal — 371. Castel Blanco, fleece washed. 372. Oporto, fleece washed. 373. Oporto, fleece unwashed. 374. Oporto, fleece, washed. 9. Russia — 377. Donskoi Odessa, fleece washed, washed in Churzon. 378. Donskoi Odessa, fleece unwashed. 381. Donskoi Rostorf, fleece unwashed. * 382. Donskoi Rostolf, fleece washed. 384. Donskoi, lamb's, washed. 385. Kasan, limed skin wool. 386. Kasan, skin wool. 387. CamePs hair. 10. Spain— 388. Burgos Chnrro, scoured fleece. 11. Turkey— 389. Albania, fleece washed. 390. Bosnia, fleece washed. 392. Kassapbatchia, third white skin wool. 393. Kassapbatchia, third white skin wool. 394. Salonica, fleece unwashed. 395. Servia, fleece washed. Standard samples /or use in the appraisement and classification of wools* Class 1. From America: Argentine Republic, Buenos Ayers — 101. Fleece unwashed, first quality or primera. 102. Fleece unwashed, second quality or secunda* 103. Fleece unwashed, third quality. 104. Fleece unwashed, Lincoln crossbred. 105. River Platte, skin wool. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 273 From America — Continued. From Chile — 106. Fleece unwashed, Merino. 107. Fleece unwashed, Meztizo. 108. Valparaiso, fleece unwashed. From Peru — 109. Fleece washed, Merino. 110. Fleece washed, first quality. 111. Lima, fleece unwashed. From Uruguay — 112. Monte Video, fleece unwashed Merino. 113. Monte Video, fleece unwashed, first and second quality. From Australasia : 114. New Zealand, greasy matchings. 115. New Zealand, greasy Merino. 116. New Zealand, fine crossbred. 117. Port Phillip, fleece Avashed. Ercildoune clip, Sir Samuel Wilson. 118. Port Phillip, greasy lambs, crossbred. 119. Riverina, greasy, first combing. 120. Sydney, greasy, first combing. 121. Queensland, greasy, first combing. 122. Tasmania, greasy, super combing. 123. Victoria, greasy, super combing. 124. Victoria, greasy crossbred, combing. 125. West Australia, greasy, super combing. From Africa : 1. Algeria — 126. Algeria, fleece unwashed. 127. Benghazi, fleece unwashed. 128. Constantine, fleece unwashed. 129. Oran, fleece unwashed. 2. Morocco — 130. Casa Blanca, fleece unwashed. 131. Larash Abudia, fleece unwashed. (Abudia means first quality.) 132. Larash Beldia, fleece unwashed. (Beldia means second quality.) 133. Mazagan, fleece unwashed. 134. Rabat, fleece unwashed, 135. Safn, fleece scoured. 136. Urdigria, fleece unwashed. 3. Cape of Good Hope — 137. Native skin wool, not limed, 138. Native skin wool, limed. 139. Eastern Cape, fleece was*bed. 140. Eastern Cape, snow white scoured, 141. Karoo, greasy fleece, Merino. 142. Natal, greasy fleece, super. 143. Western Cape, snow white scoured. 144. Western Cape, fleece washed. From Asia : 1. Turkcy-^- 145. Improved, fleece unwashed* 146. Panormc, fleece washed. JJ. Mjs, 94 18 274 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. From Europe: 1. Austria— 147. Buda-Pesth Zigaya, skin wool, 148. Buda-Pesth Zigaya, skin wool. 149. Flaniantine, skin wool. 150. Flaniantine, skin wool. 151. Hungary, fleece washed, medium. 152. Hungary, fleece washed, fine wethers. 2. France — 153. Burgundy, fleece washed. 154. Champagne, fleece washed. 155. Marseilles, chalk skin wool, fine. 156. Marseilles, chalk skin wool, medium. 157. Marseilles, chalk skin wool, coarse. 158. S. Denis, skin wool, Merino, from French skins. 159. S. Denis, skin wool, medium, from French skins. 160. S. Denis, skin wool, coarse, from French skins. 161. S. Denis, skin wool, coarse, from North African skins, 3. Germany — 162. Wurtemburg, fleece washed, No. 1. 4. Great Britain — England — 163. Cape of Good Hope, skin wool pulled at Bermondsey. Wales — 164. Fleece washed. 5. Italy— 165. Lambskin wool, super. 166. Lambskin wool, short. 167. Lambskin wool. 168. Central States, fleece washed. 169. Naples, skin wool, medium. 170. Naples, skin wool, fine. 6. Portugal — 171. Alentijo, fleece unwashed. 7. Russia — 172. Odessa, fleece unwashed, Merino. 8. Spain — 173. Churro, fleece unwashed. 174. Talavera, fleece unwashed. 9. Turkey— 175. Adrianople, fleece washed. 176. Adrianople, fleece unwashed, from imperial factory. 177. Kassapbatchia, skin wool, first quality. 178. Kassapbatchia, skin wool, super. 179. Kassapbatchia, skin wool, second quality. 180. Kassapbatchia, skin wool, Merino. 181. Kassapbatchia, skin wool, first gray. 182. Kassapbatchia, skin wool, super white. 183. Kassapbatchia, skin wool, second gray. 184. Kassapbatchia, skin wool, second white. 185. F,odosto, fleece, first quality. 186. Rodosto, fleece, second quality. .187. Varna Zigay, fleece, unwashed^ WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 275 Class 2. From America: South America — 1. Peru— 201. Islay alpaca fleece, all colors. 202. Llama fleece. 203. Huarizo cross of llama and alpaca. 204. Vicuna fleece. 2. Argentine Republic — 205. Buenos Ayres, fleece unwashed, Lincoln blood (English). From Africa: 1. Algeria — 206. Constantine goat hair. 2. Cape of Good Hope— 207. Mohair fleeces. • 208. Mohair fleeces, crossbred. From Asia : 1. China — 209. Camel's hair, first quality. 210. Camel's hair, second quality, 211. Cashmere, white. 212. Cashmere, brown. 213. Common goat hair. 2. Turkey— 214. Mohair fleece. 215. Van mohair fleece. 216. Bosnia goat hair. 217. Common goat hair. 3. East India — 218. Bombay goat hair, black. 219. Bombay goat hair, gray. From Europe : 1. France — 220. Chevrette or young goat hair, white skin. 221. Chevrette or young goat hair, gray skin. 222. Chevreau kid hair, white skin. 223. Chevreau kid hair, gray skin. 2. England — 224. Dorset horns, wethers, fleece washed. 225. Hereford, fleece washed. 226. Leicester, fleece washed. 227. Lincoln, fleece washed. 228. Shropshire, fleece washed. 229. Stafford, fleece washed. 230. Sussex down, fleece washed. 231. Wiltshire down, fleece washed. 232. Yorkshire, fleece washed. 233. Goat hair, mixed skins, Russian, Cape, Italian, etc. 234. South American white kid hair. 235. South American gray kid hair. 236. East India white cashmere. 237. Cape mohair, crossbred, sold as mohair, Ireland — 238. Fleece washed. 276 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. From Europe — Continued. 4. Scotland. 239. Black face and cheviot, fleece washed, half-bred hogs. 240. Black face and cheviot, fleece washed, half-bred ewes. 241. Black face and cheviot, fleece washed, crossbred ewes. 242. Black face and cheviot, fleece washed, crossbred hogs. 243. Black face and Leicester, fleece washed, half-bred hogs. 244. Black face and Leicester, fleece washed, half-bred ewes. 245. Cheviot and Leicester, fleece ay ashed, half-bred hogs. 246. Cheviot and Leicester, fleece washed, half-bred ewea. 247. Black face and Leicester lambskin wool. 248. Cheviot, hogs, fleece washed. 249. Cheviot, ewes, fleece washed. 5. Italy— 250. Goat hair, white, long staple. 251. Goat hair, gray and black, Levant skins. 6. Russia — 252. Kid hair, gray. 253. Kid hair, white. 7. Turkey. 254. Giogellines or brown mohair. Class 3. From America : 1. Argentine Republic — 301. Cordoba, fleece unwashed. 2. Chile— 3 )2. Valparaiso Criolla, fleece unwashed. v rom Asia: 1. Afghanistan — 303. Kandahar, soft white. 304. Kandahar, pale yellow. 305. Kandahar, gray and black. 306. Kandahar, first white. 307. Kandahar, original fleeces. Kandahar wool is commercially known as East India, being of the same character. 2. China— 308. China wool. 309. China wool, first-quality larnVs. 310. China wool, second-quality lamb's, 311. China wool. 312. Thibet, fleece washed. 3. East India — 313. Bombay, native black skin wool. 314. Bombay, native gray skin wool. 315. Joria, first white. 316. Joria, first yellow. 317. Joria, first light gray. 318. Marwar, coarse white. 319. Marwar, yellow. 320. Marwar, gray and black. 321. Vicaneer, first white. 322. Vicaneer, first yellow, WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 277 v rom Asia — Continued. 4. Georgia — 323. B. first and second clip. 324. A. B. and A. O., lamb's. 325. B. O., first clip, fleece washed. 326. B. S., first clip, fleece unwashed. 5. Persia — 327. Bagdad, black fawn and white. 328. Bagdad, white. 329. Bokhara, white fleece. 330. Bokhara, black fleece. 331. Khorassan fleeces, first clip. 332. Khorassan fleeces, second clip. 333. Mosul or Awassi fleeces. 6. Syria— 334. Aleppo, fleece unwashed. 335. Orfa, fleece unwashed. 7. Turkey — 336. Armenia Erzroom fleece. 337. Angora Konieh, fleece washed. 338. Angora Samsum, fleece washed. 339. Angora Eskishehr, fleece washed. 340. Bouldor, fleece washed. 341. Karadi, fleece washed. 342. Smyrna, limed skin wool. From Africa : 1. Egypt— 343. Washed, extra white. 344. Washed, average yellow. 345. Washed, colored skin. 346. Washed, extra choice. 347. Washed skin, extra choice. From Europe : 1. Austria — 348. Buda-Pesth, Zackel skin wool. 2. England — 349. Herd wick, fleece washed. 350. Black face Highland haslock, pulled in England. 3. Scotland— 351. Black face Highland laid fleece. 352. Black face Highland laid fleece, washed white. 353. Black face Highland laid fleece, unwashed and undipped. 354. Black face Highland laid fleece, unwashed, dipped. 355. Black face Highland, unsorted haslock, Glasgow pulling. 356. Black face Highland, sorted haslock, Glasgow pulling. 357. Black face Highland, unsorted haslock, Kilmarnock pulling. 358. Black face Highland, lamb's haslock, Edinburg pulling. 359. Black face Highland, haslock, Kilmarnock pulling. 360. Black face Highland, haslock, Bonnington pulling. 361. Black face Highland laid fleece, prize clip. A. McDonald. 362. Black face Highland laid fleece, half washed, prize clip. W. Mac- Farlane, West Hebrides, West Highlands. 363. Black face Highland, fleece unwashed and undipped, prize clip. D. McDonald, West Hebrides. 278 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. From Europe — Continued. 3. Scotland — Continued. 364. Black face Highland, fleece unwashed and undipped, prize clip. A. MacCalman, Argyleshire. 365. Black face fleece, clip of Marquis of Breadalbane, Perthshire. 4. Greece — 366. Fleece unwashed, shipped from Prevesa, Turkey. 5. Holland — 367. Native washed fleece. 6. Italy— 368. Coarse skin wool. 7. Iceland — 369. Washed wool, average. 370. Washed wool, average. 8. Portugal— 371. Castel Blanco, fleece washed. 372. Oporto, fleece washed. 373. Oporto, fleece unwashed. 374. Oporto, fleece washed. 9. Russia — 375. Calmuc fleece. 376. Crimean fleece. 377. Donskoi Odessa, fleece washed, washed in Churzon. 378. Donskoi Odessa, fleece unwashed. 379. Donskoi Moscow, fleece unwashed. 380. Donskoi Moscow, fleece washed. 381. Donskoi Rostoff, fleece unwashed. 382. Donskoi Rostoff, fleece washed. 383. Donskoi, autumn washed. 384. Donskoi, lamb's washed. 385. Kasan, limed skin wool. 386. Kasan, skin wool. 387. Camel's hair. 10. Spain— 388. Burgos Churro, scoured fleece. 11. Turkey— 389. Albania, fleece washed. 390. Bosnia, fleece washed. 391. Constantinople bed wool. 392. Kassapbatchia, third white skin wool. 393. Kassapbatchia, third white skin wool. 394. Salonica, fleece unwashed. 395. Servia, fleece washed. FREE HAIR. 401. Siberian cow hair, white. 402. Siberian cow hair, fawn. 403. Siberian cow hair, black. 404. Siberian cow hair, gray. 405. Siberian calf hair, white. 406. Siberian calf hair, white. 407. Siberian calf hair, brown. 408. Siberian calf hair, light fawn. 409. Siberian calf hair, brown. 410. Siberian calf hair, white and red. 411. Siberian cow hair, white. 412. Siberian calf hair, red. Wool and manufactures oi 1 wool. 279 Treasury Department, February 23, 1893. Cabinets oe standard wool samples. — Referring to the Department's letters to you of January 20 and March 1, 1892, I have to inform you that the Department desires that cabinets of standard wool samples, prepared by the committee of which you are chairman, be furnished to the collectors of customs at the ports of Boston, New York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, and San Francisco, and to the Board of United States General Appraisers at New York. (13742.) New York, January 18, 1893. Carriage aprons made oe woolen cloth. — We find that— (1) The appellant imported into the port of New York, July 12 and 21, 1892, cer- tain carriage aprons, claimed to be dutiable at 15 cents per square yard and 30 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 369, N. T. (2) Said aprons are completed articles, fabricated from heavy woolen cloth coated on the back with India rubber, and lined with wooden cloth of lighter weight. (3) Said aprons are not waterproof cloth, even though made of such substance, but are manufactures made wholly or in part of wool, wool the component material of chief value, and are not susceptible of accurate square-yard measurement (see G. A. 890, wherein the board decided that certain cotton-pile fabrics, cut bias and made into dress facings, were not subject to square-yard duty, but were dutiable as manu- factures of cotton, which decision was affirmed upon review by the United States circuit court for the southern district of New York). Upon these findings, we hold that the collector committed no error in assessing duty upon the merchandise at 44 cents per pound and 50 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 392, N. T. The protests are overruled, and the collector's decision is affirmed. (13754 — ft. A. 194§.) New York, January 18, 1893. Degras or brown wool grease. — The local appraiser at Philadelphia returned the merchandise covered by the protest in this case as degras or brown wool grease, and it was assessed for duty by the collector under paragraph 316 of the new tariff act of 1890. The importation is made by the same person who appeared as protestant in case G. A. 1776, and he makes affidavit that the merchandise is similar to the article passed on by the board in that decision. It is claimed to be free of duty, under paragraph 599, as grease such as is " commonly used in soap-making," or "for stuff- ing or dressing leather, and which is lit only for such uses," and not specially pro- vided for in the tariff act. The board has examined several witnesses who deal in the article, all of whom testify that they are familiar with the commercial designation of the merchandise under consideration, and that it is known in trade as " degras, or brown wool grease," which is specially provided for by name is said paragraph 316. We find as facts — (1) That the sample presented to the board is a correct representative of the mer- chandise under consideration. (2) That the article is a dark-brown grease, and is commonly known in trade as "degras, or brown wool grease," being bought and sold under this name. (3) That while it is used largely for stuffing leather and making soap, it is specially provided for eo nomine in paragraph 316 of the preseut tariff act. We may add that, without passing on the identity of the sample with that cov- ered by our former decision, if the merchandise be the same, the additional testi- mony taken leads us to a different conclusion from the one reached in that case. We accordingly overrule the protest and affirm the collector's decision. ( I 3757— O. A. 1951.) 280 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. New York, February 3, 1893. Cravenettk cloth. — The local appraiser returned the merchandise for duty as woolen or as worsted cloths "not waterproof," of the values respectively stated, and the collector assessed them for duty as such under paragraph 392 of the new tariff act of 1890 at the rates of duty specified in his report. The importers claim that the goods are dutiable as " waterproof cloth" under the provisions of paragraph 369 of said act, which reads as follows: 369. Oilcloth for floors, stamped, painted, or printed, including linoleum, corti- cene, cork carpets, figured or plain, and all other oilcloth (except silk oilcloth), and waterproof cloth, not specially provided for in this act, valued at twenty-five cents or less per square yard, forty per centum ad valorem ; valued above twenty-five cents per square yard, fifteen cents per square yard and thirty per centum ad valorem. The cases were set for a hearing and many witnesses were examined on the issues growing out of the protests, the inquiries of the board being directed chiefly to the character of the goods covered by the protests and to the nature of a certain proc- ess to which they were alleged to have been subjected, and through which it was contended they had been rendered both rain repellent and waterproof. The real and ultimate question for decision, as will appear from our findings of fact hereafter set out, is, whether this processor treatment of the worsted cloths under consideration operates to change their commercial designation from woolen or worsted cloths (specified in paragraph 392) to the " waterproof cloth" provided for in said paragraph 369. The board makes the following findings of fact, based on the evidence, including the samples and papers in the cases : (1) The merchandise consists of woolen or worsted cloths of the particular descrip- tions and values stated in the several reports of the local appraiser, and they were assessed for duty, as stated in the collector's reports, under the provisions of para- graph 392 of the present tariff act, whicli levies certain rates of duty on u woolen and worsted cloths" and other manufactures of wool, worsted or hair. The accom- panying samples properly represent the goods in the cases corresponding with the marks and figures on them. (2) These goods are chiefly used for the manufacture of clothing, either for men or women, according to their nature, texture, and weight. Some of the samples are commercially and variously known as women's and children's dress goods, as serges, and the like. (3) They have been subjected to what is called the "cravenette process, " deriving its name from the supposed inventor (Craven), the precise nature of which is not known. We find, however, upon the testimony of experts and others that the proc- ess probably consists in the application to the fabric of some solution which destroys the absorbent properties of the fiber of the cloth so as to render it comparatively water repellent, but leaving it as porous as before, not filling up the interstices of the cloth. (4) The process is susceptible of application alike to worsted, cotton, and silk goods. It does not add to their weight, nor apparently change their texture or gen- eral appearance. Worsted or woolen cloth after being subjected to the cravenette process is not distinguishable by inspection from the same goods prior to the appli- cation of such process. (5) We further find that worsted and woolen cloths known as " cravenette" goods were not probably imported into this country in any considerable quantities, if at all, prior to October 1, 1890, the process having beenputin use in Bradford, England, not earlisr than the year 1888, when it purports to have been patented. (6) The application of the process to goods costs but a few cents per yard, renders them water repellent but not waterproof, and does not change the commercial des- ignation of woolen or worsted cloth to what is known in trade as u waterproof cloth." WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 281 (7) We find that none of the merchandise under consideration is " waterproof cloth " within the meaning of paragroph 369 of the new tariff act, as claimed in the protests. This conclusion is corroborated by the change made in the tariff act of March 3, 1883, by the provisions of the present tariff law on this particular subject. The article known as " waterproof cloth " was provided for in the former act (1883) by- paragraph 340, as follows: " Oilcloth for floors, stamped, painted, or printed, and on all other oilcloth (except silk oilcloth), and on waterproof cloth not otherwise provided for, forty per centum ad valorem. " The present tariff act (in paragraph 369), above quoted, associates "oilcloth for floors," including "linoleum, corticene, and cork carpets," and " all other oilcloth (except silk oilcloth) and waterproof cloth, not specially provided for in this act." The evidence shows that what is commercially known as "waterproof cloth" includes only such goods as have the interstices of the cloth filled up with rubber, oil, or other like material (ejusdem generis with others mentioned) so as to render the cloth impervious to both air and water, and to make them waterproof in fact, and not merely water repellent. The advertisement of the cravenette goods, so called, a copy r of which was put in evidence at the hearing, designates the proc- ess, as well as the cloaks and cloths, as "rainproof," and undertakes to make a distinction between "the ordinary waterproofing processes," and "the cravenette system of rendering fabrics water repellent, ' ; and the assertion is there made that this new system " differs from all others." This fact, taken in connection with the further one that those goods have been imported only since the new tariff law went into effect, is persuasive of the conclusion reached, that they were never intended by Congress to be embraced in the term "waterproof cloth." They are "otherwise specially provided for in the act" as woolen and worsted cloths, women's and child- ren's dress goods, and the like. This fact excepts them from paragraph 369. Manufacturers testified before the board that worsted and other goods may be rendered water repellent by passing the fabric through solutions of castile soap and alum, heated to a high temperature, a recipe for which process is well known. It could be contended, with just as much reason, that the application of this old proc- ess to goods, accompanied by extensive advertisement and an appropriation of the name "waterproof cloth," would entitle them to be classified as such under said paragraph 369, as that the cravenette process would accomplish this result. The cravenette goods are mere subdivisions of the general classes of worsted, silk, or cotton goods designated in the various schedules of the tariff act, and, as said by Judge Shipman (In re Claflin & Co., circuit court of appeals, 52 Fed. Rep., 121), " it must be evident that goods can not be withdrawn from the operation of a general classification, according to material, by designating them by particular names, which merely indicates a subdivision of the general class named in the stat- ute." The protests are all overruled, and the collector's decision in each case is affirmed. (13792— G. A. 1986.) New York, February 6, 1S93. Alum-tanned sheepskins with the wool on. — We find— (1) That The Holt Manufacturing Company imported into the port of Chicago, June 24, 1892, 4 bundles of sheepskins with the wool on. (2) That said skins have been alum-tanned, are not far enough advanced in the process of dressing to be pliable, but are still rough and stiff. That the wool thereon is from 3^ to 7 inches in length, washed but not scoured, and is wool of the second class. (3) That said skins are not fur skins nor furs dressed on the skin, nor dressed sheepskins. 282 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. (4) That the quantity of wool thereon was ascertained in accordance with the rules prescribed by the Secretary of the Treasury. (5) That duty was assessed upon the quantity of wool found thereon at 12 cents per pound under the provisions of paragraphs 377, 384, and 387, N. T., and the skins were passed free. Entry is claimed, under paragraph 444, at 20 per cent ad valorem as furs dressed on the skin, or under paragraph 456 as dressed sheepskins. Upon these findings, which are based upon facts appearing in the papers and upon information received in the examination of numerous cases relating to furs dressed and undressed, we hold that duty was correctly levied upon the wool, and overrule the protest. (13804— G. A. 1998.) New York, February 8, 1893. Brokerage on wool. — We find as facts that — (1) The appellants imported into the port of New York certain third-class wool, purchased by them at Damascus or other principal markets of the country of expor- tation, and invoiced at a given price. In addition to the value of the merchandise per se certain items of charges, including brokerage, are specified in the invoice. (2) Said item of brokerage was paid by the importers in these cases, and accrued before the merchandise was packed ready for shipment to the United States. After further investigation concerning the nature and dutiable character of the charge for brokerage, which appears on many invoices, the board is of the opinion that a sweeping declaration that all such charges are dutiable would be erroneous, but such charges call for a careful examination and inquiry in order that the precise nature of the same and the circumstances under which they are made may be fully understood. If it appears that such a charge has been actually paid for services in effecting a purchase of wool at actual market value at a place which is one of the principal markets of the country from which such merchandise is shipped, and where such merchandise is found collected in quantities, and offered for sale in open market (as distinguished from the services of a traveling agent who goes about in the country from place to place purchasing and gathering the wool for the market in quantities sufficient for shipment), we are of the opinion that brokerage charged for services in such a market should be allowed as nondutiable, and although something may be required to be done after such purchase to put the merchandise in a condition ready for shipment, yet the brokerage should not be included among the dutiable charges, and on this point we modify our opinion as expressed in G. A. 1577, when the existing facts show that the brokerage charge accrued for services rendered in a market as aforesaid. In conformity with these views, and on our findings of facts, we find as a matter of law that brokerage and inspection*charges appearing on the invoices now under consideration do not form any part of the dutiable value of the merchandise covered by protest. The claim of the appellants in their protests is sustained and the col- lector's decision is reversed. (138 1 2— O. A, 2006.) New York, March 7, 1893. Sheepskins with the wool on. — We find — (1) That Messrs. Parrott & Co. imported into the port of San Francisco per Mari- posa, May 12, 1892, 29 bales containing 4,050 raw sheepskins with the wool on. (2) That the quantity of wool was ascertained by shearing and shaving an aver- age pelt and weighing the wool ; that the average weight of the pelt was 3*26 pounds and the quantity of wool Ihereon ascertained as aforesaid was 1*63 pounds, equal to 50 per cent, and the same was of commercial value. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 283 (3) That duty was assessed upon the wool according to the weight so ascertained at 11 cents per pound, the same being class 1, merino wool, and the skins were passed free of duty. We have no evidence contradictory to the weigher's report of the weight of wool as returned, but by this test it is our opinion that the weight of wool returned is favorable to the importer, and that the percentage acted upon in a number of other cases of this importer considered simultaneously herewith was not only fair towards him, but liberal. It is manifest that upon importations of sheepskins with the wool on the exact weight can not be practically ascertained by any means in the power of customs officers; but in a number of cases investigated at New York, where it was claimed that percentages acted upon were too high, actual tests made by pulling have proved that the result obtained upon the percentage basis was a less number of pounds than the result of pulling, and we are satisfied from an examination of the results in this and other cases submitted to us by the same parties in interest, that if in any one case the weight according to the percentage applied appeared to them as slightly excessive, yet, in more cases by the same test the results appear to us as too low and the total weights ascertained by the application of the methods adopted by the customs officers for the ascertainment of the quantity of wool was on the whole favorable to the importer. It is claimed in the protest that the skins are entitled to free entry under para- graph 605; that there is no wool of commercial value on the skins. Upon the facts this claim can not be sustained, and the protest is overruled. (13886— G. A. 2039.) New York, March 2, 1893. ' Worsted and cotton shawls embroidered. — We find in these cases from the exhibits that the goods covered by the protests are — (1) Cotton shawls slightly embroidered with worsted, cotton the component material of chief value. (2) Worsted shawls elaborately embroidered with silk, worsted the component material of chief value. Said shawls are wearing apparel. In G. A. 1061 and 1500 the board held that certain worsted shawls embroidered with silk were dutiable at the rate applicable to embroideries of the material com- posing the body of said shawls. The U. S. circuit court for the southern district of New York reversed the decision of the board, G. A. 1061. Judge Lacombe, in con- struing paragraph 373, N. T., held that the term therein, "materials of which they are respectively composed,' 7 referred to the materials composing the embroidery on wearing material and textile fabrics, and not to the materials composing the wear- ing apparel and textile fabrics. The U. S. circuit court of appeals recently affirmed the decision of the circuit court. We therefore hold in the present cases that the worsted shawls are dutiable at 44 cents per pound and 50 per cent ad valorem under paragraph 392, as claimed by the appellants, and tha t the cotton shawls are dutiable at 50 cents per pound and 60 per cent ad valorem, in accordance with paragraphs 373 and 398, N. T. The protests with regard to the worsted shawl are sustained and the collector's decision is affirmed as to the cotton shawls. The views expressed in G. A. 1061 and 1500 are modified to conform to this decision. (13878— Cr. A. 2031.) New York, March 7, 1893. Wool on sheepskins.— We find — (1) That Messrs. Harmell Bros, imported into the port of Hartford, Conn., May 6, 1892, thirty bales of raw sheepkins with the wool on. 284 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. (2) That said skins were from Buenos Ay res, and the quantity of wool thereon was ascertained in accordance with the regulations of the Treasury Department and returned at 54^ per cent of the weight of the pelts. (3) That the samples officially drawn and furnished the hoard were carefully examined by the wool examiner at the U. S. appraiser's store in New York, and the quantity of wool thereon as found and stated by him to the board was 55 per cent of the gross weight. From this and numerous other actual tests caused to be made by the board upon protests where the correctness of the Treasury regula- tions have been questioned, we are of the opinion that the percentages fixed by the Department will be found to be generally more favorable to importers than actual tests by pulling. No complaint is made as to the rate of duty, but it is claimed that the weight of wool should have been returned at less than 54^ per cent and the skins should have been passed free. The importers in this case do not seem to have been aggrieved, and the protest is overruled. (13887-G. A 2040.) New York, March 8, 1893. Knit fabrics, wearing apparel. — We make the following findings of fact in these cases : (1) That the goods in question were imported since October 6, 1890. (2) That they consist of undershirts, drawers, hosiery, gloves, and other articles, made up wholly or in part on knitting machines or framed and composed chiefly or wholly of wool, worsted, the hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, or other animal. (3) That all the goods in question are articles of wearing apparel. The collector classified the goods in each case as articles of wearing apparel com- posed wholly or in part of wool, worsted, the hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, or other animal, and assessed duty thereon under the provisions of paragraph 396 of the new tariff 1 act. The importers contend that the goods are more specifically provided for as "knit fabrics, and all fabrics made on knitting machines or frames," made wholly or in part of wool, worsted, etc., and as such are dutiable under the provisions of paragraph 392 of said act. The board's decision of February 4, 1891 (G. A. 289), which sustained the importers' claim in a case similar to the present contention, was reversed by the circuit court for the southern district of New York (In re Arnold, 46 Fed. Rep., 510). The latter decision was recently affirmed by the Supreme Court of the United States in an opinion by Mr. Justice Brewer. The Supreme Court held that the term "knit fabrjcs," as used in paragraph 392, was intended to embrace only such piece goods as are fabrics made on knitting- machines or frames, other than ready-made clothing and other articles of wearing apparel, and accordingly decide that woolen and worsted knit goods, such as hosiery, undershirts, drawers, etc., were properly classified and assessed for duty as articles of wearing apparel under said paragraph 396, N. T. Following that decision, we overrule all the protests and affirm the collector's decision in each case. The protests as to the constitutionality of the act of October 1, 1890, are also over- ruled. (13§S§— O. A. 2041.) Treasury Department, April 10, 1893. East India wools. — The Department is informed that sorted East India wools costing less than 13 cents per pound (other than Kandahar wools) are subjected at your port to a single duty of 32 per cent ad valorem, and not to double duty (64 per cent) prescribed by paragraph 383, N. T., on the ground, as explained by the appraiser, that such single duty being levied on the value of the wool in its sorted WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 285 condition results in a greater amount than the double rate on the unsorted value, and, consequently, that your practice is claimed to be in accordance with the rule stated in synopsis 12468. It appears, however, from reports received from the collectors of customs at Philadelphia and New York, under dates of the 7th and 8th ultimo, respectively, that the value of such wools in the unsorted condition, as estimated by the appraiser at those ports (not less than 5£rif. per pound) is sufficiently high to net a greater amount of duty at the rate of 64 per cent on such value than at the rate of 32 per cent on the sorted value, and, consequently, that they assess on such wools the double duty, as provided in said paragraph 383, and the alternate rule laid down in the above-cited decision. In view of representations made to the Department that such difference of prac- tice results in a discrimination against the importers of similar wools at New York and Philadelphia and in favor of those at your port, and in the absence of any authoritative standard for the determination of the foreign value of said wools in the unsorted condition, it is deemed advisable to accept the higher estimate for the pur- pose of determining the proper rate of duty, and you are therefore^authorized to bring your practice into accord with that prevailing at the other ports, leaving the importers, if dissatisfied, to their remedy under section 14 of the act of June 10, 1890. (13910.) Treasury Department, April 29, 1893. Classification of third-class "sorted" wool. — The Department is in receipt of a letter, dated the 24th instant, from the U. S. attorney for the southern district of New York, in which he reports that, on the 18th instant, the U.S. circuit court of appeals at New York rendered a decision in favor of the importers, In re E. S. Higgins & Co., involving the dutiable classification of third-class wool, affirming the decision of the U. S. circuit court for said district. It appears that on April 2, 1891, the said firm imported, per Teutonic, certain gray, yellow, and white wools, washed, of the third class, which were classified by the collector, as follows: The gray and yellow, as wools of the third class, under the provisions of paragraphs 378, 383, and 385 of the act of October 1, 1890, which are as follows: 378. Class 3, that is to say, Donskoi, native South American, Cordova, Valparaiso, native Smyrna, Russian camel's hair, and including all such wools of like character as have been heretofore usually imported into the United States from Turkey, Greece, Egypt, Syria, and elsewhere, excepting improved wools hereinafter provided for. 383. The duty upon wool of the sheep or hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, and other like animals which shall be imported in any other than ordinary condition, or which shall be changed in its character or condition for the purpose of evading the duty, or which shall be reduced in value by the admixture of dirt or any other foreign substance, or which has been sorted or increased in value by the rejection of any part of the original fleece, shall be twice the duty to which it would be otherwise subject: Provided, That skirted wools as now imported are hereby excepted. Wools on which a duty is assessed amounting to three times or more than that which would be assessed if said wool was imported unwashed, such duty shall not be doubled on account of its being sorted. If any bale or package of wool or hair specified in this act, imported as of any specified class, or claimed by the importer to be dutiable as of any specified class, shall contain any wool or hair subject to a higher rate of duty than the class so specified, the whole bale or package shall be subject to the highest rate of duty chargeable on wool of the class subject to such higher rate of duty, and if any bale or package be claimed by the importer to be shoddy, mungo, flocks, wool, hair, or other material of any class specified in this act, and such bale contain any admixture of any one or more of said materials, or of any other material, the whole bale or package shall be subject to duty at the highest rate imposed upon any arti- cle in said bale or package. 385. On wools of the third class and on camel's hair of the third class, the value whereof shall be thirteen cents or less per pound, including charges, the duty shall be thirty-two per centum ad valorem. 286 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. The white wool was classified as wool of the third class under said paragraph 378, as valued at over 13 cents per pound, under paragraph 386, which imposes a duty of 50 per* cent ad valorem on wools of the third class so valued and sorted under said paragraph 383; and duty exacted on the gray and yellow wools at the rate of 64 per cent ad valorem, and on the white wool at the rate of 100 per cent ad valorem. Against the exaction of duty at these rates the importers protested, claiming that the gray and yellow wools were dutiable at the rate of 32 per cent ad valorem only, and the white wools at the rate of 50 per cent ad valorem only, on the following grounds, viz: (1) That the provisions of paragraph 383, relating to the subject of " sorting," are inapplicable to wools of the third class. (2) That "sorting," within the meaning of said paragraph, includes only such manipulation of wools by the rejection of a part of the original fleece as may result in an increase of value, and that "sorts" composed of the inferior portions of the fleece can not be held liable to double duty even if those increased in value are so liable. (3) That the grading of the wools by a separation of the fleece merely according to colors is not "sorting" within the proper signification of that word. (4) That if liable to double duty as sorted wool, the duty should be double only on its value in an unsorted and not a sorted condition; and (5) That the white wool had already been assessed with duty at the rate of 50 per cent ad valorem, amounting to three times that which would be assessed if said wool had been imported unwashed, and was, therefore, if sorted wool, within the provi- sions of paragraph 383, exempting wools from the double duty. The case was accordingly taken to the Board of U. S. General Appraisers, under the provisions of section 14 of the act of June 10, 1890, and on August 4, 1891 (G. A. 797, Synopses 11692 and 13423), the board rendered a decision reversing that of the collector, whereupon an appeal was taken to the circuit court at New York, where the decision of the board was affirmed. Under date of February 11, 1892, the U. S. Attorney-General advised this Depart- ment that, in view of the doubt entertained by him as to the correctness of the construction of the word "sorting" in paragraph 383, and in view of the general doubt which surrounds the clause by reason of the very awkward application of the paragraph to third-class wools, an appeal to the U. S. circuit court of appeals had been directed. In the opinion handed down by the circuit court of appeals in this case the follow- ing language is used: Upon the argument we expressed the opinion that the Board of Appraisers and the circuit court were correct in their conclusion that the gray and yellow wool was not "sorted" within the meaning of paragraph 383. This word is aptly defined in the return of the Board of General Appraisers: "Sorting, as usually defined, means that process preliminary to wool manufacturing necessary to fit the article for textile purposes, which consists in classifying by separation the fibers of the fleece as clipped from the sheep's body, according to length, fineness, elasticity, and soundness of staple. The wool varies in quality in different parts of the animal, as many as twelve or fourteen i sorts' being sometimes obtained from a single fleece, but frequently not more than from five to seven qualities." This definition is sus- tained by expert evidence before the board and by technical works on manufactures, which they cite. It is in accord with the definition contained in the Report on Wool and Manufactures of Wool published by the Treasury Department September 6, 1889, xmd which was presumably known to the framers of the tariff act of 1890. The word is therein thus defined: "Sorts: The fleeces broken into narrower and more accurate subdivisions as to fineness, there being several qualities or sorts of wool in the same fleece." The phrase, " which has been sorted or increased in value by the rejection of any part of the original fleece" in paragraph 383, is coupled with the phrases, "imported in any other than ordinary conditions," "changed in its character or condition for the purpose of evading the duty," and "reduced in value by the admixture of dirt or other foreign substance," and the provisions for pajmient of double duty is in the nature of a penalty. In view of the fact that East India wool of this class, as the evidence shows, has always been packed abroad, separated as to color, and so imported, and of the further fact that, before the act of 1890 was passed, complaint had been made by the woolgrowers of this country of a practice that had grown up of taking third-class wool, separating the very finest parts of the fleece., WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 287 bringing them over here, and getting them through the custom house as carpet wool, and then using them for the purpose of making clothing, there is additional warrant for the conclusion that Congress used the phrase " sorted wool" with the meaning understood by wool-dealers, viz : A breaking up of the fleeces to obtain a subdivision into grades, and not a mere separation by whole fleeces into colors, each, fleece still containing the separate sorts of wool of which it was composed when sheared from the sheep's back. There was no warrant, therefore, for classifying the gray and yellow wools here imported as " sorted," and therefore the double duty upon them was improperly exacted. It is conceded that the white wool was not only separated by color, but also sorted in quality. As such it would be liable to the double duty imposed by paragraph 383, except for the proviso which excepts " wools" on which a duty is assessed, amount- ing to three times or more than that which would be assessed if said wool w r ere imported unwashed. The Board of Appraisers found, as a fact, that the duty already assessed at 50 per cent ad valorem on the white w r ool amounted to more than three times the amount to which it would have been subject if imported unwashed. We find nothing in the record to call for a review of this finding of fact, and, it being a fact, there was no warrant for the imposition of the double duty. In the argument ab inconvenienti advanced by the district attorney, we do not find sufficient ground for restricting the proviso to those classes of wools (first and second class) upon which the statute assesses duty by the express term unwashed. If third-class unwashed wool were imported it would pay a duty easily ascertainable by multiplying the valuation by the ad valorem rate. When the statute also provides that, if the duty on the same wool washed is three times what it would be were the wool unwashed, there shall be no doubling on account of its being sorted, the language is plain and comprehensive of all wools, and there is no reason why it should be construed to have a different meaning from that which is expressed upon its face simply because it may not be convenient to ascertain the value of unwashed wool of the same class and grade as washed wool. The Board of Appraisers did not find the task impossible, and presumably the collector would have found it no more difficult. (Arthur v. Pas- tor, 109 U. S., 139.) The decision of the circuit court is affirmed. In view of the above, you are hereby authorized to take measures looking to a refund of the excess of duty exacted in this case, and you will apply these instruc- tions to all similar cases pending at your port where the importers have duly pro- tected their rights in the manner x>ointed out by the act of June 10, 1890. (13940.) New York, March 23, 1898, Traveling rugs. — (1) The goods covered by this protest were imported into the port of New York subsequent to October 6, 1890, and consist of traveling rugs com- posed of mohair and cotton. (2) Said goods are not portions of carpets or carpetings. (3) Said goods are not fabrics in the piece, and are not wearing apparel, but are made-up articles not denominatively provided for in the present act, manufactured from a pile fabric, and of which wool, worsted, the hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, or other animal is the component material of chief value. Duty was assessed upon said goods by the collector at 49£ cents per pound and 60 ■per cent ad valorem under paragraph 396, N. T., as pile fabrics. The appellants .claim the same to be dutiable (1) as rugs assimilating to carpets or carpeting at 50 per cent ad valorem under paragraphs 407 and 408, N. T. ; (2) at 44 cents per pound ,and 50 per cent ad valorem under paragraph 392 as manufactures composed wholly .or in part of wool, worsted, hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, or other animals. In our opinion the second claim of the appellants is well founded. Paragraph 396 provides for " plushes and other pile fabrics." We think this term means piece •goods, and not articles made from plush or other pile fabrics. Such a construction iOf the statute would seem to be in harmony with the decision of the II. S. Supreme Court, In re. Arnold, touching knit fabrics, and also in harmony with decision of /the U. S. circuit court of appeals, In re. Kursheedt Manufacturing Company. In the 288 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. last-named case the merchandise was dress facings manufactured from velveteen. The court said : The real question in this case is whether the articles are the velveteens of para- graph 350 or a manufactured article. Concededly, if they are a manufactured article, they are a manufacture of cotton because they are made of velveteen, which itself is a manufacture of cotton. If they are specially provided for and excluded from the manufactures of cotton of paragraph 355 for that reason, it is because they are vel- veteens. * * * We think the evidence clearly shows that the articles in contro- versy have lost their commercial identity as velveteens and are a manufactured article. We hold in the present case that the merchandise in controversy has lost its com- mercial identity as pile fabrics, and is a manufactured article specially enumerated and provided for in paragraph 392. To this extent the protest is sustained and the collector's decision is reversed. (13964 — Gr. A. 2069.) New York, April 4, 1893. Masks and toy mustaches. — We find that the goods covered by this protest, as shown by the exhibits, are — (1) Masks manufactured from a gauze-like cotton fabric stiffened with a starchy substance and painted to resemble the human face. (2) Masks composed of paper or pulp and having attached thereto a flowing beard of white wool, paper or pulp the component material of chief value in said masks. (3) Rude imitations of false mustaches, identical with those covered by G. A 1079. The merchandise was classified by the collector as manufactures of cotton and wool, respectively. The appellants claim the same is dutiable at 35 per cent ad valorem, under para- graph 436, N. T., as toys, and alternatively that the masks and beards are dutiable at the same rate under paragraph 463. Masks are used by children in play, but they are also used by adults for masquer- ading' purposes. The preponderance of evidence taken in this case shows that these are designed for and chiefly used by adults. The Treasury Department under former acts ruled, and up to the date of the passage of the present act uniformly held, that articles of the kind in question were not toys. Congress does not seem to have regarded masks as toys, otherwise it would hardly have distinguished between toys and paper masks by providing therefor in the act of October, 1890, at the same rate of duty under paragraphs 436 and 463, respectively. We hold that the several kinds of, masks in question are not toys, and we over- rule the protest and affirm the collector's decision as to the cotton masks. We sus- tain the claim of the appellants that the paper masks with beards of wool are duti- able at 35 per cent ad valorem under paragraph 463. In our opinion, the term masks composed of paper or pulp includes such articles composed of mixed materials of which paper or pulp is the component of chief value. We also sustain the protest with regard to the mustaches. (13975 — O. A. 20§0.) New York, April 6, 1893, "Shetland veils." — The goods covered by this protest are invoiced as "White Shetland falls." These articles are loosely knit, and have scalloped edges surround- ing a fancy knit border about 2 inches wide. In dimensions and form they are nearly a semicircle, 24 inches in diameter. The appellants claim triat said goods are dutiable at 44 cents per pound and 50 per cent ad valorem, under paragraph 392, N. T., as knit shawls composed of wool, worsted, the hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, or other animal. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 289 We find that— (1) Said merchandise on or about October 1, 1890, and immediately prior thereto, was not commercially known as shawls, but was then and is now known in trade as " infants 7 falls," " infants' veils, or Shetland veils." (2) Said merchandise is weariug apparel, not shawls composed of wool, worsted, the hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, or other animal, and is knit by hand or machinery. On these findings, we hold the claim of the appellants is not well founded. The protest is overruled, and the collector's decision in assessing duty on the merchan- dise at 49i cents per pound and 60 per cent ad valorem under paragraph 396, N. T., is affirmed. (13979— G. A* 2084.) New York, April 10, 1893. Robes embroidered. — We find as facts in these cases that — (1) The goods in question are invoiced as robes and are dress patterns composed wholly or in part of wool. (2) Said dress patterns consist of tAVo pieces of cloth of contrasting colors, one of which is plain and the other embroidered with silk or metal or both, or is orna- mented with glass beads. (3) These so-called robes are not manufactured wholly or in part, but are merely cut into suitable lengths to be manufactured into ladies' costumes or robes. (4) Said merchandise weighs over 4 ounces to the square yard, and the greater part of the material is commercially known as women's dress goods, as is a manu- facture of which wool, worsted, hair of the camel, alpaca, goat, or other animal is the component material of chief value, valued at above 40 cents per pound. The collector assessed duty upon this merchandise at 60 cents per pound and 60 per cent ad valorem, in accordance with the provisions of paragraphs 373 and 398, N. T. The appellants claim said merchandise is dutiable at 44 cents per pound and 50 per cent ad valorem under paragraphs 392, 394, or 395, N. T. The board in G. A. 1066 decided that the value of the embroidered and plain materials comprising so-called robes, identical with these in question, should have been segregated by the appraiser and the separate kinds of merchandise classified and assessed with duty by the collector under the respective paragraphs of the present act which specifically provide therefor. This decision was affirmed by the U. S. circuit court for the southern district of New York (50 Fed. Rep., 465). The circuit court of appeals for the second circuit, In re. Schefer, Schramm & Vogel, decided that wool or worsted shawls embroidered with silk were not subject to the rate of duty imposed upon embroideries composed of wool or worsted, and as none of the merchandise in question is embroidered with wool, worsted, the hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, or other animals, the necessity of segregating the value of these plain and embroidered fabrics would not seem to exist, inasmuch as but one rate of duty is applicable thereto. We hold tnat the goods in question are dutiable at 44 cents per pound and 50 per cent ad valorem, as claimed by the appellants. To this extent the protests are sustained and the collector's decision is reversed. The views expressed by the board in G. A. 888 and 1066 are hereby modified to conform to this decision. (139§3— G. A. *088.) New York, April 10, 1893. Embroidered woolen table covers. — We find as facts in this case that — (1) The goods covered by these protests are table covers and other made-up arti- cles composed of wool, worsted, the hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, or other animal. H. Mis. 94 19 290 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. (2) Said articles are embroidered, by hand or machinery, with silk, metal, or some substance other than wool, worsted, the hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, or other animal. (3) The rate of duty provided for said articles in paragraph 392 is greater than that provided for embroideries of the materials composing the embroidery on said articles. Following the decision of the U. S. circuit court, second circuit, In re. Schefer, Schramm & Vogel, we sustain these protests and reverse the collector's decision. (i3984-G. A. 2089.) New York, April 11, 1893. Fur-lined garments.— We find that — (1) The goods covered by this protest are ladies' cloaks composed of wool or worsted lined with squirrel fur and trimmed about the neck, sleeves, front, bottom, and back with black marten's fur. (2) Said goods are manufactures of which fur is the component material of chief value, the value of the fur trimmings alone being greater than the value of the wool or worsted in said goods. The collector assessed duty on these cloaks at 49^ cents per pound and 60 per cent ad valorem under paragraph 397, N. T. The appellants claim the same are dutiable at 35 per cent ad valorem under para- graph 461, N. T. In our opinion the claim of the appellants is well founded. It will hardly be contended that fur cloaks lined withwool or worsted should be classified and assessed with duty under paragraph 397, and we can see no reason for holding that cloaks of which fur is the component material of chief value shall pay different rates of duty when fur forms the inside or outside of such garments. In the present case fur is a marked feature of the cloaks, and increases the value thereof to more than double that of wool or worsted cloaks of a corresponding quality, size, and fashion. We hold that the goods in question are more specifically provided for under para- graph 461 than under paragraph 397. The protest is sustained and the collectors decision reversed. (13985— €r. A. 2090.) Treasury Department, May 17, 1893. White third-class wool. — The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 13th instant, inviting attention to the decision of the Board of General Appraisers (G. A. 2105), dated the 21st ultimo, wherein it is held that certain white third-class wool, invoiced at above 13 cents per pound, was sorted, and having been returned as worth 12 cents per pound in its condition before sorting, it was properly dutiable at the rate of 64 per cent ad valorem ("double duty") on its value in its unsorted con- dition, under the provisions of paragraphs 383 and 385 of the act of October 1, 1890. You contend that inasmuch as the white wool in question, in the condition in which imported, was third-class wool, invoiced at above 13 cents per pound, it was properly dutiable at the rate of 50 per cent ad valorem under the provisions of par- agraph 386 of the act of October 1, 1890, by virtue of the last clause of section 5 of the aforesaid act, which provides that "if two or more rates of duty shall be appli- cable to an imported article it shall pay duty at the highest rate," and you there- fore request to be advised as to whether the aforesaid decision of the board should be challenged in the manner prescribed by law. In reply I have to inform you that it is the opinion of the Department that the provisions for sorted wools contained in paragraph 383 of the act of October 1, 1890, are independent of the provisions of paragraph 386 of the said act, based on price and more specific, so that third-class wool valued at more than 13 cents per pound, WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OP WOOL. 291 if sorted, will properly fall within the provisions of paragraph 383 rather than under paragraph 386. Two rates of duty not being applicable to the white wool of tho third class herein under consideration, the case is not one falling within the last clause of section 5 of the act of October 1, 1890. Referring to finding 4 of the aforesaid decision of the board, it appears that the said wool had been washed, and that the duty of 50 per cent ad valorem upon its invoiced value would not equal three times the duty upon said wool in an unwashed and unsorted condition. The decision of the board, holding the wool to be dutiable at the rate of 64 per cent ad valorem upon its unwashed and unsorted value,under the provisions of paragraphs 383 and 385 of the act of October 1, 1890, is therefore in har- mony with the recent decision of the circuit court of appeals in the case of E. S. Higgins & Co. The Department accordingly holds that no application for review should be filed under the provisions of section 15 of the act of June 10, 1890, in this case. (14015.) Treasury Departmknt, May 22, 1893. Wool samples.— -The Department has had under consideration several applica- tions from importers of wool for relief from the immediate enforcement of Depart- ment's circular No. 28, of February 21, 1893, establishing standards for comparison in the classification of wool. It has been represented that the result of classification according to the new standards has, in many cases, thrown wools which have hitherto been held as of the third class into the first class, and that, in consequence, the duty has been largely increased. It is further contended that wools which had been ordered in ignorance of any impending change of the classification pre- vailing up to the issuance of said circular have in some cases been sold in advance of arrival at prices based upon the then prevailing rates of duty, and as a result of the change importers have been subjected to heavy loss without remedy. On November 26, 1888 (Synopsis 9136), the Department in instructing the collector of customs at New York in regard to the classification of hat trimmings, which had been changed in consequence of conclusions arrived at by the appraisers, used the following language: A change in the classification which has prevailed for so long a period of time should not be made except upon timely notice to all persons engaged in the business of importing and dealing in such merchandise, and, in the judgment of the Depart- ment, where it is made to appear to the satisfaction of the collector that the goods were ordered prior to the announcement of his decision changing the classification, the entry should be liquidated and the duty assessed according to the practice which prevailed before the change was made. On January 10, 1891 (Synopsis 10587), in promulgating the new regulations regard- ing the valuation of foreign coins, in accordance with which certain currencies were subjected to a higher valuation, the Department said: With a view, however, of affording relief to importers of merchandise from such countries * * * where it would seem that a great hardship would be imposed by immediately enforcing the said decision, * * * the Department has reached the conclusion that entries of importations made prior to April 1, 1891, from countries having such depreciated currency * * * mav he adjusted by estimating the value of the currency in accordance with the consular certificate which may be attached to the invoice, provided that such value shall be returned as correct by the appraiser. In accordance with the precedents thus established the Department has concluded to direct that entries of wool covered by invoices certified on or before May 1, 1893- shall be subjected to classification for duty in accordance with the rules which pre- vailed before the issuance of circular No. 28, and when it is found that under these conditions duties have been paid in excess, refund will be made of such excess. (140230 292 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. New York, April 21, 1893. Sorted third-class wool. — We find — (1) That Mr. Carl Grubnau imported into the port of New York, June 6, 1892, a quantity of East India wool, invoiced as 64 bales white Joria, at 8%d, per pound; 23 bales yellow Khelat, at 4^d. per pound, and 7 bales yellow Joria, i^d. per pound and entered the same at the above values. The appraiser returned all of said wool as wool of the third class, sorted, and the value in the original unsorted condition as 6d. per pound for the white Joria and id. per pound for the yellow Khelat and 6d. per pouud for the yellow Joria, audits value in its present condition as specified in the invoice, and no appeal for a reappraise- ment was taken. (2) That it appears by the invoice, and the fact is not questioned, that the value of the white wool in its condition as imported was 17 cents per pound and the value of the yellow 9 and 9£ cents per pound, respectively, and the appraiser's return in pence makes the value per pound of the white wool in its original unsorted condi- tion to have been 12 cents per pound and the yellow Khelat to have been 8 cents per pound and the yellow Joria at 12 cents per pound. (3) The collector assessed duty upon the white wool at the rate of 50 per cent ad valorem under paragraphs 378 and 386, N. T., upon the invoiced value of 17 cents 'per pound, which was its value in its present sorted condition, as per the invoice and entry and as returned by the appraiser, and duty was assessed upon the yellow wool at 64 per cent ad valorem upon its returned unsorted value of 8 and 12 cents per pound, respectively, under paragraphs 378, 385, and 383, N. T. (4) It is substantially admitted by the importer, and we find upon the evidence, that the white wool has been sorted and increased in value by a rejection of some portion of the original fleece, and that the white wool of the fleece of this variety ordinarily embraces the better quality as to length, fineness, and elasticity of fiber. We also find that said wool had been washed, and that the duty of 50 per cent upon ts invoiced value would not amount to three times the duty upon said wool if it had been unwashed and unsorted. We also find that the duty of 50 per cent ad valorem upon its present value exceeds 64 per cent upon its unwashed and unsorted value. (5) It is admitted by the importer that the yellow wool has been sorted as to color* but he claims that it has not been increased in value by the rejection of any portion of the original fleece, and therefore not sorted within the meaning of paragraph 383, N. T. We find that said wool has been washed and sorted by the selection or sepa- ration of the yellow wool from the original fleece, which contained wool of several colors, including white, said other portions of the fleece being rejected from this assortment, and the return of the appraiser as aforesaid upon the invoice shows that the yellow Joria has been decreased and the yellow Khelat has been increased in value by such separating and sorting. (6) If we are authorized, upon a consideration of this protest, to review the return of the value of the wool in its original condition, as made by the appraiser, by excluding his return or appraisal, or accepting it as his advisory opinion only, then upon the evidence presented to the board we find that said yellow wool has not been increased in value over the average value of the original fleece, which included white wool from which the yellow was separated, and we also find the value of the white and yellow Joria wool in its original condition in the fleece to have been 12 cents per pound and of the yellow Khelat 11^ cents per pound. (7) We find that said yellow wool was not imported in its ordinary condition, that is to say, in its original condition; that this wool does not contain the entire fleece, but is wool which had been washed upon the sheep's back, and upon which labor has been expended in separating the same from other portions of the fleece. We further find that wool of this kind, color, and condition has been customarily im- ported for many years, and that this particular wool has not been further manipu- lated or treated than has been the practice with this variety of wools as heretofore WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 293 imported, and in respect to such condition we find that this wool is in the ordinary condition of washed third-class wool assorted as to color, not changed in character or condition to evade duty, nor reduced in value by the admixture of dirt or any foreign substance; that it has been the customary practice for many years to import third-class wool washed aud assorted as to colors. The imj>orter claims "that if the sixty-seven bales (white wool) are correctly returned as sorted, then the duty should be assessed at 64 per cent ad valorem on the value in the unsorted condition under parapraph 383 of the act of October 1, 1890. " He also claims "that the thirty bales (yellow wool) are not sorted under the con- ditions provided for under said paragraph 383;" that "they are wools in the same ordinary condition that has been the practice for years, and that no portions of the fleeces have been rejected to increase the value of the balance," and claims "the duty at 32 per cent under the same paragraph as wools costing under 13 cents per pound, and desires to apply to our (his) benefit the rulings made by the Board of General Appraisers upon the subject." We first consider whether the assessment of duty at 50 per cent ad valorem under paragraph 386, N. T., upon the white wool was lawful. The solution of this question involves a consideration and determination of the value of the wool in its present as well as its original condition. If no regard is paid to its former condition, then its present value exceeding 13 cents per pound would make it dutiable as third-class wool at 50 per cent ad valorem. But this wool was sorted within the meaning of paragraph 383, N. T., and increased in value by the rejection of some parts of the original fleece. (See G. A. 797 affirmed, 50 Fed. Rep., 16, and since affirmed on appeal.) This is shown by the report of the appraiser, and is not denied by the importer. That the white wool of this variety embraces most of the best quality on the fleece there seems to be no doubt. The board has heretofore held, in G. A. 797, that paragraph 383 of the tariff applied to wool of the third class, and in the absence of the contents of paragraph 383 the proper rate of duty upon the white wool would unquestionably be 50 per cent upon its present value under paragraph 386, because the class and value of the wool as imported is exactly covered by the provisions of the latter paragraph. It appears, also, that this white wool is invoiced and entered at a value above 13 cents per pound. If duty is assessed upon its unwashed and unsorted value, such value per pound being less than its invoice, entered, and appraised present value, the sum of such 64 per cent duty would be less than the 50 per cent duty upon the invoice or present value, and the 50 per cent duty upon the present value would not exceed three times the duty on its original unwashed and unsorted value. Such an assessment of 64 per cent duty upon the unsorted value would apparently be made in disregard of the final paragraph of section 7 of the act of June 10, 1890, which provides that "the duty shall not be assessed upon an amount less than the invoice or entered value." The act of October 1, 1890, was enacted at a later date than the act of June 10, and by its provisions (section 55) all laws and parts of laws inconsistent with this act are repealed. If, therefore, the duty in this case is assessed under paragraph 383, such duty must be based upon the value of the wool in its unsorted condition (Arthur v. Pastor, 109 U. S., 139), and it is not a case where two or more rates of duty become applicable, viz, 64 per cent upon the unsorted value or 50 per cent upon its present value, because its unsorted value being less than 13 cents fixes its dutiable status under paragraphs 383 and 385. Paragraph 383 seems, therefore, to be one instance where it is specially provided that, upon certain wool like this, the duty must be assessed without regard to the final paragraph of section 7 of the act of June 10, 1890, and the rate specially fixed is twice the duty to which it would be subject in its unsorted condition, to wit, 64 per cent ad valorem (the wool in its unsorted con- dition being valued at less than 13 cents per pound, and the rate for such wool being 32 per cent ad valorem under paragraph 385). The yellow Khelat wool appears, by the appraiser's return, to have been increased in value by the assorting to which it has been subjected. The provisions of para- 294 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OP WOOL. graph 383 impose twice the duty to which wool would be otherwise subject if it is sorted or increased in value by the rejection of any part of the original fleece. The value necessarily ascertained upon which to assess the double duty is the value of such wool, if unsorted, in the original fleece. All such values must needs be the market value, and such market value in its condition packed ready for shipment at the time and port of exportation. (£ee section 19, act of June 10, 1890.) It is argued, therefore, that the duty of the appraiser in the premises is commensurate with the requirements of the law, and that, when he returned this wool in its present condi- tion as valued at 4%d. per pound, as per invoice, and in its unsorted condition at id. per pound, both values, unless an appeal for a reappraisement was taken, became conclusive as to all subsequent procedure. Under the decision of the Supreme Court in Arthur v. Pastor, the dutiable value is the value in the unsorted condition, and by section 2950, Revised Statutes, not repealed in section 29 of the act of June 10, 1890, the certificate of an appraiser of the dutiable value of merchandise is an appraisement thereof. 'If this is not so, then the circuit court of appeals, instead of a board of general appraisers, is the final tribunal for determining the value of wool in its original unsorted condition, and the market values of sorted wool, as it was before sorting, will not be determined by appraisal, but by the trial of an issue at law. Therefore, if we accept the appraisal as conclusive in this case, the yellow Khelat wool, by the separation and selection, has been increased in value and must be held as " sorted and increased in value by the rejection of some portion of the original fleece," and so becomes subject to twice the duty on its value in its original unsorted condition, as returned by the appraiser, to wit, 64 per cent on id. per pound. Applying the same reasoning to the white Joria wool, which the appraiser's return shows is decreased in value by being separated and selected or rejected from the original fleece, it is not sorted because, as held by the board in G. A. 797, it is not increased in value, and is not subject to the provisions of paragraph 383, but is dutiable under paragraph 385 at the single duty of 32 per cent ad valorem on the invoiced value. We are impressed with the force of the foregoing argument, but as opposed to it are the following considerations: Questions of classification and rates of duty are for the collector to decide. It is therefore exclusively within the province of the collector to determine the nature and condition of the merchandise when he is required to fix the rate of duty. It is in this case the business of the collector to decide whether tbe wool is sorted or in- creased in value by the rejection of any portion of the original fleece. If he finds in the affirmative, it then becomes necessary for him to ascertain the original value of the wool, and the finding of this fact requires notice to be taken, first, of the evidence of its present value, which is conclusively fixed by the appraiser ; second, by satisfactory evidence of the value of the wool in its original condition, to be obtained by the collector from any proper source. If he decides that the present value of the wool exceeds its original value, by the same evidence he will ordinarily ascertain its original value, and upon that assess the double duty. This last propo- sition does not seem to have been specially passed upon by the courts in any adjudi- cated case as reported, but as the ascertainment of the former value is necessarily involved in the settlement of the question of proper classification, it seems to us that the law commits the determination of all the foregoing facts to the collector, except the one point of the ascertainment of the present value of the merchandise, which is exclusively within the province of the appraiser. We feel authorized, therefore, to disregard the return of original value as made by the appraiser, and to act upon our findings based upon all the evidence before the board. We therefore sustain the claims of the protest that the white wool is dutiable at 64 per cent ad valorem on its value in its unsorted condition, as stated in our sixth WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 295 finding, to wit, 12 cents per pound, and that the yellow Joria and yellow Khelat wool is dutiable at 32 per cent ad valorem upon its invoice and entered value, being its present appraised value. The protest is sustained and the entry should be reliqui- dated accordingly. (14054— G. A. 2105.) New York, April 26, 1893. Velvet ribbons. — We find that the goods covered by this protest are silk velvet ribbons of usual lengths varying in width from about one-half of 1 inch to 3 inches, and containing, exclusive of selvages, less than 75 per cent in weight of silk. The collector assessed duty on these goods at $1.50 per pound and 15 per cent, ad valorem under paragraph 411 of the present act. The appellant claims said goods "do not belong to a class of articles commercially known as pile fabrics, and that they are dutiable at only 5 per cent ad valorem under paragraph 414, act of October 1, 1890." In our opinion the appellant's claim is not well founded. Paragraph 411 provides for velvets denominatively, and we can not find the goods in question are anything more than velvet. The term velvets we think includes all descriptions of velvet in the piece, and does not apply exclusively to any one of the several classes of goods known in trade by the descriptive name of velvet dress goods, " millinery velvet," or "velvet ribbons," etc. At any rate, the merchandise in question falls under the designation of pile fabrics. It is a fabric in the piece, has an upright pile with a smooth surface, and belongs to a class of goods known in trade as pile fabrics. In accordance with these views and on our findings, we overrule this protest and affirm the collector's decision. (14061— €r. A. 2112.) New York, April 26, 1893. Painters' tapestry or upholsterers' canvas. — The merchandise in this case is known as painters' tapestry or upholstery canvas. It is composed of wool in the weft and cotton in the warp, and is similar to the goods covered by G. A. 1064. The cotton in this fabric is of fine quality and is twisted into a very coarse thread, there being about 15 of these threads to the inch. The wool filling consists of fine threads, about 60 to the inch. The finished fabric resembles corded or rep goods. In the decision referred to, the board found that cotton was the component of chief value. In the present case we reach a different conclusion. We find as facts from an analy- sis of the chemist in charge of the United States laboratory at New York and the testimony of competent witnesses — (1) That the quantity of wool is slightly greater than cotton in said merchandise. (2) The value of the cotton in said merchandise is about 32 cents per pound and the wool 42 cents per pound, wool being the component of chief value therein. On these findings, we overrule the claim of the appellant that the goods in ques- tion are dutiable as cotton cloth or as manufactures of cotton, and affirm the col- lector's decision in assessing duty on the same at 44 cents per pound and 50 per cent ad valorem under paragraph 392, N. T. (1J062— G. A. 2113.) New York, May 3, 1893. Women's and children's dress goods. — The merchandise in question was classi- fied by the collector as pile fabrics composed wholly or in part of wool, and was assessed with duty at 49^ cents per pound and 60 per cent ad valorem under para- graph 396, N. T. The appellants claim said goods are woolen dress goods, and as such dutiable at 44 cents per pound and 50 per cent ad valorem. These goods are composed of cotton in the weft, and cotton and wool, and silk, cotton and wool in the warp. The woolen warp threads are woven in the fabric at regular distances 296 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. apart and are looped and cut, forming a surface pile, the finished fabric resembling- corduroy. There is no controversy as to the facts in this case, and we find — (1) That the merchandise is commercially known as women's and children's dress goods and also as pile fabrics. (2) That it is composed wholly or in part of wool and weighs over 4 ounces to the square yard. Standing alone, the terms of either paragraphs 395 or 396 would cover these goods, therefore, as two rates of duty are applicable thereto, we are called upon to decide under which of the two paragraphs named they should be classified. In our opinion the merchandise is more specifically provided for as pile fabrics than as dress goods. Paragraph 395 provides for many kinds of textile fabrics composed of wool, and if not otherwise provided for imposes duty thereon, when weighing over 4 ounces to the square yard, at the rate named for manufactures of wool not specially enumer- ated, whereas paragrajjh 396 imposes a greater rate of duty for articles of clothing and wearing apparel and two particular kinds of textile fabrics, namely, felts not woolen and pile fabrics. The intent of Congress to exact a higher rate of duty on all pile fabrics composed of wool than upon the other wool dress goods, is, we think, manifest, and for the purposes of this case the tariff may be construed as if reading: All women's dress goods weighing over 4 ounces to the square yard composed wholly or in part of wool shall pay 44 cents per pound and 50 per cent ad valorem, except pile fabrics, which are specially provided for in paragraph 396 and subject to duty thereunder at 49£ cents per pound and 60 per cent ad valorem. In accordance with these views, we overrule the protest and affirm the collector's decision. (14068— 0. A. 2119.) Treasury Department, June 28, 1893. Drawback on scoured wool.— The Department is in receipt of your letter of the 20th instant, relative to the application of Mr. A. Woodbury for an allowance of draw-back under the provisions of section 25 of the act of October 1, 1890, on wool imported in the grease and exported scoured. The question presented in this case is whether or not scoured wool produced from imported raw wool may properly be considered as an u article manufactured or pro- duced in the United States" within the contemplation of said law. Upon a consultation with the Solicitor of the Treasury the Department concurs with you in the opinion that the question must be answered in the negative, and the application is therefore denied. (14127.) New York, May 10, 1893. Embroidered worsted hat crowns. — (1) The goods in question consist of pieces of wool or worsted cloth, designed for use in the manufacture of ladies' or children's hats and known in trade as "hat crowns." (2) These articles are ornamented or embroidered with glass beads and metal threads, but have undergone no further process of manufacture than to be orna- mented with suitable designs and cut into sizes for use as hat crowns. On these findings we hold that the merchandise is not wearing apparel wholly or partly manufactured. Nor is it subject to duty as wool or worsted embroidery, inas- much as the material composing the embroidery is not wool, worsted, the hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, or other animal. We sustain the claim of the appellants that said merchandise is dutiable at 44 cents per pound and 50 per cent ad valorem under paragraph 392, N. T. The collector's decision is reversed. (14130— 4*. A. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 297 New York, May 16, 1S93. Gloria cloth, bordered. — We find that — (1) The merchandise in this case is commercially known as " gloria cloth," and that it is composed of wool or worsted in the weft and cotton in the warp. (2) Said goods have a bordered edge, and are used in the manufacture of umbrellas and in making women's and children's dresses. (3) Said merchandise is women's and children's dress goods, or goods of similar character and deBcription. In G. A. 1044 (affirmed by the circuit court for the southern district of New York) the board decided that gloria cloth without borders was dutiable under paragraph 394 or 395. We now hold that cotton-warp gloria cloth with borders is dutiable under the appropriate provisions of paragraph 394, N. T. The protest is sustained and the collector's decision is reversed. (14,138 — O. A. 2137.) New York, May 16, 1893. Silk and wool braid, silk chief value. — The goods in question are fancy braids composed of silk, wool, felt not woven, and cotton, and from an analysis we find further that silk is the component material of chief value therein. The collector does not contend that silk is not the component material of chief value in these goods, but says that inasmuch as they are manufactures of which wool or hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, or other like animal, is component material, he assessed duty therein at 49| cents per pound and 60 per cent ad valorem under paragraph 396, in accordance with the proviso to paragraph 414, N. T. In our opinion the collector erred in classifying the goods as he did; merchandise that is covered by the proviso to paragraph 414 would seem to be dutiable at 44 cents per pound and 50 per cent ad valorem under paragraph 392 as manufactures of wool. We do not think that this proviso relates to any manufactures of silk other than such as would be dutiable under paragraph 414, if wool, worsted, the hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, or other like animal, were not a component material thereof. The goods in question are not of such a character; they are braids made of silk, or of which silk is the component material of chief value, and are specifically provided for under paragraph 412, as claimed by the appellants. The protests are sustained and the collector's decision is reversed. (14139 — O. A. 2138.) New York, June 7, .1893. Embroideries, wool— Made-up embroidered articles not.— "Textile fab- rics," as used in the tariff, applies only to piece goods. embroidered "DJIDJIM8" .OR PORTIERES, WOOL CHIEF VALUE. — We find — (1) That Mr. M. B. Mihran imported into the port of San Francisco October 17, 1892, certain portieres upon which duty was assessed at 60 cents per pound and 60 per cent ad valorem under paragraph 393 and the proviso of paragraph 373, N. T. (2) That the portieres in question are known as " Djidjims," and are composed of five selvaged strips of coarse cotton and wool cloth, about 12 inches wide, of different colors, sewed together and fringed at both ends. The portiere is rudely embroidered by hand with wool or worsted along the edge and seams and also in regular figures or designs repeated on each strip. (3) Wool, worsted, or the hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, or other like animal is the component material of chief value of the foundation cloth and embroidery, and all of the embroidery on the strips may have been complete before they were sewed together. The importer claims said merchandise to be dutiable under paragraph 392, N. T., as a manufacture of wool or worsted not specially provided for. 298 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OP WOOL. To decide this case we must construe the meaning of the word embroideries as used in paragraph 398, and the words textile fabrics in the proviso of paragraph 373. It has been claimed that the word " embroideries," in paragraph 398, is commercially limited to such embroidered material as is adapted to be made up into articles. This is apparent from the use of the word in paragraph 373, where articles embroid- ered by hand or machinery are mentioned and apparently distinguished from embroideries enumerated in the first line with laces, edgings, insertings, etc. Aside from articles of wearing apparel and textile fabrics, we do not find in either paragraph any embroidered articles composed of wool or worsted specifically pro- vided for unless they are to be considered as covered by the provision for textile abrics in the proviso of paragraph 373. The U. S. circuit court of appeals at New York has held in substance that articles made from textile fabrics are not textile fabrics, but that the latter term applies to piece goods. It would therefore seem that the portieres in question are not elsewhere specially provided for and are dutiable as claimed. The protest is sustained. (14109— <*. A. 2168.) Treasury Department, July 3, 1893. No drawback on carbonized wool. — The Department duly received your letter of the 20th ultimo, relative to the application of Mr. F. Hartley for an allowance of drawback under the provisions of section 25 of the act of October 1, 1890, on wool imported unwashed and exported after having been "put through a process of car- bonizing." From the statement of the applicant it appears that said process of carbonizing results merely in the removal of vegetable matter from the imported wool. The Department therefore concurs with you in the opinion that the wool so car- bonized is not entitled on exportation to drawback under the provisions of the law referred to. The application is therefore denied. (14 183.) New York, July 13, 1893. Third-class wool. — The protests relate to wool of the third class imported since October 5, 1890, at New York and Philadelphia, at the dates and by the parties specified in the schedule annexed. The varieties of wool specially passed upon, the dates of importation, and the invoiced prices are substantially as follows: White Joria, April, 1891, Sid. to %d. ; white Joria, April, 1891, 10id. to 10fd. ; white Vicanere, April, 1891, lid., 8 to 8%d. ; white Jesselmere, April, 1891, lid. to l^d. ; white Kandahar, September, 1891, and December, 1892, 7f d. to 9d. ; white East India, September, 1892, 3d. to 5^cZ. ; yellow Vicanere, December, 1892, 5fd. to Sid. ; yellow Packpathen, July and December, 1892, 5fd. to Sid. ; yellow Kandahar, December, 1892, 5fd. ; yellow Khelat, July and August, 1892, id. to 5d. ; yellow Khorassen, August, 1892, 4£d. ; yellow Mahr- war, August, 1892, 4Jd. ; gray Kandahar, April, 1891, 5J- to 5£dL ; gray Kandahar, August, 1891, 4d. to 5d. ; gray Kurachee, October, 1891, 3J to 3f d. ; together with wools invoiced as common white, gray, or yellow East India at various prices from id. to 6d. per pound. The wools which range in invoiced value above 13 cents per pound were assessed for duty, at dilferent periods, either at 100 per cent on the invoiced value as sorted wool or at 50 per cent on the invoiced value as sorted wool when 50 per cent was higher than 64 per cent upon the unsorted value, and the wools of an invoiced value under 13 cents were assessed for duty at 64 per cent on the invoiced value, or at the eame rate upon the returned unsorted value. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 299 The several importers claim variously that their wool is not subject to double duty by virtue of paragraph 383, N. T., or that in the higher priced wools duty should be assessed at 64 per cent upon the unsorted value, together with sundry claims such as are set forth in G. A. 797 and 2105, such as that the wool is not sorted or increased in value by the rejection of any portion of the original fleece, etc. We have taken occasion to make a very minute investigation in these cases, because of conflicting testimony in other cases and the difficulty which has occurred in secur- ing uniformity in the classification and assessment of duty upon third-ciass wools imported in a condition other than in whole fleeces in the grease or unwashed. A eareful ascertainment by local appraisers and collectors of the unwashed value of the original fleeces has been omitted in many of the cases here passed upon, as indi- cated by the absence of any reports thereon. The importance of this step is mani- fest when we consider that it is an essential factor in determining the question whether the duty must be doubled upon the unsorted value of the wool which is shown to be sorted, or increased in value by the rejection of any portion of the orig- inal fleece. For instance, if the invoiced value of sorted third-class wool is Sld. y in the absence of paragraph 383 the duty would be 50 per cent ad valorem. In par- agraph 383 it is provided that wools on which a duty is assessed amounting to three times or more than that which would be assessed if said wool was imported unwashed, such duty shall not be doubled on account of its being sorted. These so-called sorted East Indian wools are sometimes washed more or less thoroughly on the sheep's back, and sometimes washed or scoured after sorting, but they are also very generally subjected to a picking-over, called garbling, by which the coarse dirt and extraueous matter are removed more thoroughly than by any washing to which they might be subjected before shearing. If the shrinkage in weight, which would be due to any washing on the sheep's back or to scouring after sorting, together with the removal of the quantity of dirt or sand by handling, is fully taken into account, it will be found that the difference between the original average value of the unwashed fleece from which the Sid. wool is obtained and the present value is very considerable. While the original value can not be obtained with absolute accuracy, yet experts in the business are able to approximate values so closely that for practical purposes the estimates of numbers will substantially agree. Taking into account its present clean condition, we have found upon evidence that the original unwashed value of this Sid. wool in the fleece was approximately id. The duty upon such unwashed wool valued at id., at 32 per cent ad valorem, amounts to 0.0256 cent per pound, while the duty upon the sorted invoice value of 8^d., at 50 per cent ad valorem, amounts to 0.085, which is more than three times the duty upon the unwashed value, and therefore the duty upon this wool is not to be doubled. Applying the principles for the construction and application of paragraph 383 as we now understand them to be, we find that the lowest valued wools covered by these protests are not increased in value by the rejection of any portion of the orig- inal fleece, and, as to the higher price wools, that the duty based upon their invoiced value exceeds thrice what would be the duty upon said wool if unwashed and in the original fleece. The ascertainment of values is of the first importance, and when these values are correctly ascertained the cases will be comparatively rare where, upon East Indian wools of the varieties above mentioned, it will be necessary to impose rates of duty other than 32 per cent or 50 per cent upon the present appraised value. We are led to believe, from information obtained at a recent date, that much of the yellow and gray wools imported are found in entire fleeces; that the gray and yellow wools found in the same fleeces with white wool constitute but a small per- centage of the entire fleece, and that the value of the finer portions of a fleece, when in the original unwashed condition, does not exceed much, if any, the value of the coarser wool in the some fleece, because it is said that the finer wool usually carries a very large percentage of dirt and foreign matter, and is therefore subject to a greater percentage of shrinkage than the coarser portions. The fact that an invoice 300 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. contains gray or yellow wool does not necessarily indicate that such colors have been separated from white wools of a fleece, because entire fleeces of these colors are found and graded in colors, but this does not change the fact that fleeces coutaining white, yellow, and gray are broken up and portions of the same increased in value by sorting, or the rejection of parts of the fleece in making the assortment. We find that the wools covered by these protests are not subject to any of the conditions contained in paragraph 383, N. T., whereby the duty should be doubled, and the protests are sustained to the extent of the claims that said wools are subject to single duty of 32 or 50 per cent ad valorem, accordingly as the invoiced value shows that the same are subject to said rates as we have specified in the schedule. All other claims in the protests in conflict with these conclusions are overruled. (14243— O. A. 2207.) Treasury Department, July 18, 1893. Wool samples. — Department's circular of February 21, 1893 (No. 28), is hereby amended as follows : Omit from class 1, on page 2 — 149. Flamantine-skin wool. 150. Flamantine-skin wool. 179. Kassapbatchia-skin wool, second quality. Add to class 3, on page 3 — 396. Servian-skin wool. 397. Servian-skin wool. 398. Kassapbatchiai-skin wool, second quality. Omit altogether from cabinet — 145. Turkey improved, fleece unwashed. (141 970 New York, July 18, 189S. Ice-wool squares. — The local appraiser at; Chicago reports that the merchan- dise in question " consists of ice-wool squares and ice-wool fascinators, used as cov- erings for the head and neck and incidentally for the shoulders." The goods were classified and assessed for duty by the collector under paragraph 396 of the new tariff act as articles of wearing apparel made of wool or worsted. It is claimed by the importers that the goods are dutiable under paragraph 392, which imposes certain specified rates of duty on " woolen or worsted cloths, shawls, knit fabrics, and all fabrics made on knitting machines or frames, and all manufac- tures of every description made wholly or in part of wool, worsted, the hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, or other animals not specially provided for in this act." We find as facts, from the testimony taken in the case,, as follows: (1) The articles (except the so-called fascinators) are known commercially as "ice- wool shawls," and are made of Angora wool, possibly with an admixture of an insig- nificant quantity of vegetable fiber, being manufactured on knitting machines or frames. (2) They are articles of wearing apparel and are worn both on the head and on the shoulders, but chiefly on the shoulders. We find as matter of law that the merchandise is provided for eo nomine in para- graph 392, " shawls * . * * made of wool (or) worsted," and that this special enumeration takes them out of the more generic description of woolen wearing apparel in paragraph 396. The decision of the U. S. Supreme Court in the case of Arnold, Constable & Co., v. The United States, 13 Sup. Ct. Rep., 406 (affirming the same case in 46 Fed. Rep., 510), presented a question entirely different from the one raised by the present protests. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 301 The examiner of woolen aod worsted goods at the port of New York, who testifies as a witness before the board, discloses the fact that the articles under consideration are uniformly assessed for duty at this port as worsted " shawls," under paragraph 392, as claimed by the protestants. The protests covering these goods are accordingly sustained in each of the cases, and the collector's decision is reversed, with instructions to reliquidate the entries. The protests claiming the so-called fascinators to be shawls are formally abandoned, and the collector's decision classifying th«se articles as wearing apparel is affirmed. (14251-G. A. 2215.) New York, July 27, 1893. Woolen robes ok dress patterns. —The merchandise covered by this protest is embroidered and plain robe patterns composed of wool and commercially known as women's and children's dress goods. This merchandise is identical with that cov- ered by G. A. 888. We find the facts to be substantially the same as set forth in said decision. Had the appellants claimed that no part of said goods were dutiable at the rate applicable to worsted embroidery we would have sustained the protest (provided the material composing the embroidery was silk) in accordance with the decision of the circuit court of appeals for the second circuit In re Schefer, Schramm & Vogel. The appellants having claimed redress only as to a part of the merchan- dise, in accordance with the principle enunciated in G. A. 888, affirmed by the circuit court of appeals for the second circuit, we su&tain the protest and reverse the col- lector's decision. The protest as to the constitutionality of the act of October 1, 1890, is overruled. (14302— O. A. 2231.) Treasury Department, August 3, 1893. Sorted wools. — Eeferring to so much of your letter of the 5th ultimo as relates to the difficulty of ascertaining the dutiable value of sorted wools, which may be liable, under the principles enunciated in the decision of the United States circuit court of appeals (Synopsis 13940), to a double duty on the value in their unsorted condition, I inclose herewith a copy of a recent decision of the Board of United States General Appraisers (G. A. 2207), wherein it is stated that, " while the original value can not be obtained with absolute accuracy, yet experts in the business are able to approximate the values so closely that for practical purposes the estimates of numbers will substantially agree." As to the scope of the said decision of the court and the Department's instructions of the 3d and 30th of June last, you are informed that said decision and instructions *ire applicable to all sorted wools, irrespective of invoice value, and that it is there- fore the duty of the collector to ascertain in all cases of sorted wools the original 7alue in their unsorted condition. (14266.) New York, September 21, 1893. Scotch Hasloch wool, washed but unsorted.— We find that the H. B. Claflin Company imported into the port of New York May 10, 1893, certain Scotch Hasloch wool, which the appraiser returned as third-class wool washed and sorted, its present value 15£ cents per pound, its washed and unsorted value 14 cents per pound, and unwashed and unsorted value 11 cents per pound. Upon evidence taken on protest No. 19085 and in other cases concerning wool of this identical kind and in like con- dition, we find that this is wool of the third class washed and unsorted. The col- 302 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. lector assessed double duty, amounting to 100 per cent, upon its returned washed and un sorted value. The importer claims it is not washed and sorted, and there- fore not subject to the double duty. If we had found the wool to be sorted the decision of the collector would have been affirmed, but upon the facts found the protest must be sustained. (14453— O. A. Treasury Department, September 23, 1898. Drawback on Wilton rugs. — On the exportation of Wilton rugs manufactured by Harrison Townsend, of Norristown, Pa., in part from worsted yarns, manufac- tured by James Lees & Son., of Bridgeport, Pa., from imported unwashed Persian wool, a drawback will be allowed equal in amount to the duties paid on the im- ported wool, less the legal deduction of 1 per cent. The quantity of yarn used in the manufacture shall be determined by allowing 72^ pounds of such yarn for every 100 pounds of the net weight of the exported rugs, as ascertained by the United States weigher, and the quantity of the wool entering into the manufacture of such yarn and entitled to drawback shall be deter- mined by allowing for each 100 pounds of the yarn 300 pounds of the wool, less as many pounds thereof as are equal in value to 50 pounds of noils and waste, accord- ing to the values of wool, noils, and waste, which shall be stated in the requisite certificate of the manufacturer of the yarn, subject to verification by the collector. Whenever ordered by the collector, samples of the rugs entered for export will be taken by the inspecting officer and submitted to the appraiser for verification of the percentage of yarn contained therein. (14366.) Treasury Department, November 22, 1893. Drawback on wool. — On the exportation of Brussels and Wilton carpets and Assyrian rugs manufactured by M. J. Whittall, of Worcester, Mass., in part from worsted yarn made from imported unwashed Scotch, Syrian, and Persian wools in equal quantities, a drawback will be allowed equal in amount to the duties paid on the wools used in the manufacture, less the legal deduction of 1 per cent. The total quantity of the wools so used shall be determined as follows : Allow for each running yard, 27 inches wide, of the carpets designated as Victoria Wilton, 6.498 pounds ; Victoria Brussels, 4.223 pounds : Whittall Brussels, 4.061 pounds, Edg- worth Brussels, 2.931 pounds, and for each Assyrian rug, 54 inches long and 27 inches wide, 12.635 pounds; provided that the quantity of worsted yarn contained in each running yard of the carpets shall not be less than 1.797 pounds in the Victoria Wil- ton, 1.172 pounds in the Victoria Brussels, 1.125 pounds in the Whittall Brussels, and 0.812 pound in the Edgworth Brussels, nor less than 3-J- pounds in each Assyrian rug. Whenever ordered by the collector samples of the carpets and rugs entered for export shall be taken by the inspecting officer and submitted to the appraiser for verification of the quantities of worsted yarn contained therein. (144 §8.) IMPORTS OF WOOL AND MANUFACTURES INTO THE UNITED STATES. I. 1821 1866. II. 1867-1883. III. 1884-1893. 303 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. I | g s s 5- § 1 a a - » s s" a 7, 779 28 15, 275 1 1 o Pounds. 364, 596 56, 235 57, 316 d 183, 172 d 234, 524 d 401, 852 d 70, 677 d 104, 977 45, 461 71, 455 254, 914 158, 615 67, 844 28, 852 309 44, 878 +3 (-1 Dollars. 91 4, 961 % 461 512 201 677 345 2, 019 5 9,197 51, 717 40, 764 4, 370 20, 331 25, 847 13, 301 « 1 1 1 isS i l i ill 00 I sf a" j l ; •* j * ; ; rf tf 124, 914 681, 279 527, 279 64, 938 297, 873 400, 353 194, 414 tf 8 if N g 5 §5 g S m " 1 tf I 3 3 8 - * a 8* S 3 e I B 1 5 i g « § 3 •* * S3 s 8 S «" s sf a s - 3 a g <* a sf « s - I Is Si a tf I lis" CO CO Isis ill tf i " * II CO" a ft a tf * •* * 1 iiiUUiiiUiiiiiiiiii I WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 305 472 13, 383 4,101 678 12,499 3,858 8, 298 el8, 106 27, 492 38, 407 B i — L : : 2, 887 85, 754 22, 637 6, 575 d 113, 027 d 27, 557 d 59, 264 129, 275 167, 903 230, 914 1 i 5, 552 32, 738 4, 720 I «T co d | => g- co of S " o o g( o rj g g- g § i QO ! CO . 4,401 j 16,479 5,952 98, 100 7*27, 867 81, 156 iisiiiiigiiisiiiil 63, 107 1 i 46, 171 130, 503 36, 012 gSilSliiI.|§IISili3llil31Sili a SS ig I g'* tftfg s &f § s - i a * » a sf s | s s • 1 1 1 » s t; l f a" i % * S 3 § II 3S§§iSSSSilaSSiiSISiS r-T CO" r-T « r-T rH N r-T tt lO « r-T v w o ^ 848, 687 535, 610 c 1, 914 1, 237, 452 c4, 500 917, 902 c4, 511 1, 134, 656 204, 893 708, 071 1 1 1 1 §\§ 1 s lO Co" r-T r-T CO" t> 13, 565 1, 595 377 6, 796 500 55, 701 1 57 GQQ 493, 312 343, 941 39, 020 324, 204 10, 558 46, 649 1, 796 42, 045 11, 882 15, 789 8,584 19, 817 7. 038 238 13, 423 53, 889 38, 885 6, 380 1,610 44, 784 ill r*tf 1, 023, 439 2, 988, 889 1,511,347 91, 754 1, 923, 495 66, 765 455, 088 20, 456 320,984 345 18, 693 8, 151 3, 423 5, 511 111 §11 11 11 s - S" if « 4 * % 1 S 7, 527 4-4- j s 1, 284 1, 085 9, 334 1,422 299, 128 111, 981 41, 574 43, 303 423, 552 44, 236 1,502 826, 273 176, 733 33, 285 2, 760 c206, 175 c 33, 200 c!89, 120 112, 610 . • o> '< cf • CO 2, 050 12, 494 17, 427 101,045 H. Mis. 94 20 306 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. t I 1 j! 1 i I 1 i i IS- a'" 9 * tf.* i 8 1 CO 1 i II |4 S- £ 3 I 3 n I ■ 8 1 g ' 1 1 1 1 3 S5 8" Sf S «f - M " B S3 - - tf 1 1 g 1 1 1 1 § e i i g § 1 1 § 1 1 1 1 -i ? s si 5" s" s - s sf a * s' § a af s § s § jf £ § g S 1 § £ 1 S 3 § 6 s 1 § 3 1 1 1 S ' S 1 g§lf lieialiSlla-SIHSI ©J CO" irf* r-T t>~ 00 of © CO If? rjT 00 IIHIIIlilllsIllls s a | £ a sf ra " g s s s a g s sf tf laslslllslllsllls IS§. S3 8 S 111 =fl§f 1 1 I Sill 3* s g a - * a * sf s if s s a 1 1 1 1 iigf imi i § f s 1 1 f r4 r-T CST I 1 I* liiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 307 >-4 I 1 I Sgi§§Si31ii§£i3ssgSS§iS 1 1 -^3iii51§e3iIliIIIS3§lS 11 lilt Il-iiilif-iiis§isaiil si ftn .4 iH -H Cvf Of 8 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. i 1 H ^ " » r>' co oo of t>~ g> iillTi¥illlTilT¥i¥ilTilTilT * - «f s 5 s s - a s a 2 s g a s s sf n sF s * s $ sf ss* e a e « ~ CQ § a a 1 co' cf a 1 ass's S I § 1 1 r-T r-T rH rH r-T " rf - a a" » a » a" s a * s-»3^ 'Htm 0> CO" CO* N « rH rH rH igisgiiiiiiisiigiisgiisissa s s sf £ a * sf sf s a a § a a a gf g s a tf sf a a if a a H of lO CO la! * - 0 s" glllT a" SI I IS a" ell S "III 1*1 If rH rH rH r-T r-T rH C* rH SlsSisilllIlSlilllllSSSSISI rH" rH rH rH ^IlllalillglSlllsllllaSlgsla 1 1 § sf £ s 3 I i a" i 1 1 a" i ! S 1 1 a" § § s i s I a" § ^ rH" CST d" CO" r*" 10 ^" CO" CO" Co" cf ci -hi CO OO N rH tO CO rH d d h CO If) Co rH C» OS CO CM t- rH CO r-t ^ CM 06" I--" of r- 1- co CO CO CO ^ r~ cm cs fc- t- if) CO tO rH CO CM t~ CM rH Tj! r« OO rH t- K) ^ N rH t- OS CO CS OCOO t- CM L- rH cT rH lO CM CI 00 OP rH CM CO 00 CO CO <1 o rH © 2 CD •5 3 CO CO rH CO CD 00 a CO r-| I i o r=> a CM CM CO CM rH rH co co co rji rH rH OS CO CO CM CO O t-CMrHOC35CMCMrH OS CM CM CI O CO IO O CM O if) CO CO O OS if) 00 00 t>- co O OS t- CM _ OCOC5t>t~"* co o co O CM lO M H lO t» os t- cm co (N 00 ^ lO CO O CO CO CM £rHt-OSCOOSlf)CMlfSt-COCMO©COClt^ N H » « rl rt ^ rH ^ rH CO CO OS O CM CO CM CI CM rH CM O CO rH O if) N 00 C3! CO O CO o CO CO rH CO rH if) rH 05 CO CO CO O t> t~ CO OS rH CM CO » ■ * o 2 CD t> if) r-i rjt rH rH rH 00 O CM © CM tfj CM rH CO CO t- CM t- rH O • CO O CO CO rH O CO lO OS lf> CM" © if) -* CO rH 2 CO O CO CO OS OS -th CO CO CO OS t— C3 r ri OS iO 00 CO pj if)" co" irs iff of ^ lO CO O0 CD OO 05 L- CO CO rH fH ifl CM O CM ^ O © IO ^ r-( CM (M a l> CO 00 if) H O .H to" lO OT -hT rH of ^ rH CM CO CM T t» 00 if) if) if) to S) »f) CO t» O tO CM ' If) CO CM cf co" as" , rH t> CM © ^ rH CM H CO CO CM CO «* CI CM CM 00 CO CO 00 co 00 cococooooccococooooooooooo WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. CO a © 2, 025 3, 742 S 1 § 1 1 S a : 1 1 1 8 g 1 1 1 -8 5 S § i **sf am******* j 216, 782 374, 954 Pounds. 29., 416 68, 046 S S 3 .8 S s § 1 i ' g 1 1 S" 1 i i 1 1 § 1 t*» CO~ CO" Of N rH ! * . « *> * : 1. 234, 411 3, 389, 407 ! Total South American. t&S8§§SS88-SS858S888S3S§88rS q j$ rA r-T rH rH*~ (N rH CO .ft M£S.§g'S§3g§g§§8i-S8S888'8S&S « Of g «T CO «T « £ jf Of Of Of CO Of O jf CO CC Cf gf ,f - £ All other countries in South America. 1 C 1 1 - - 5 S3 * Sf S | 3 2 - - 8" 3" S3 i i 5 : 8 |> , 00 isllsiillSsssIlSssgs i * A * • 1 ; 4 : 1 > Dollars. ! : $ 12, 681 514 665 330 81, 145 913 13*5 629 c 22, 194 c 1,359 c5, 256 36 ii 3 1 ! 1, 158 | 145, 075 8, 569 12, 389 7, 180 440, voZ 15, 348 1, 860 6 1, 200 b 1, 912 Uruguay. ;8 11, 631 75, 201 4, 563 : % -i lilliilrlllill ! : * 3 - S rn 7 Sf sf S Sf 8 | j 197, 0D1 2, 567 321,046 Pounds. 11, 184 305, 803 1,272,469 43, 066 jS 71, 789 347, 825 53, 737 137, 554 101, 007 b 209, 260 b 284, 450 b 296, 715 b 243, 640 14, 061 476, 815 3, 490, 800 1,164, 260 6. 582 2, 224, 629 Chile. tflSllglllllilS3Sgl2|S|||S \S 4 § 8 I e § 1 1 § 1 1 1 5 i 1 1 8 B 1 1 1 1 § I S -8 i^Iisiri'is'i'iiiiliiii'ff fit ;£ (X, rH rH rH~ • a : ^ : CO 2 1845 1846 1847 • ii • II • • ii « : ii ii . ii ii ! * II 1865 1865 e 1866 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 202, 579 . 2, 755 256, 436 3, 278 18, 981 3,996 47, 533 rH rH rH rH" rH Of 5 of go co g « « g g g g g c," g jj 5 - g jj s 3 ss s 1 1 mil C) r4 rH r-T rH r-T rH fi, - of « £ of rt - *r v ej o «r l~ »- g jj «r 3 g <= * g 8| II a 11 rH II II rH Csf rH" s if 9 § sf s tf j 3 .a s WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 317 SISigSSiiilS§SIIIiilS3SigS§gSSl§S-- rH r-T CO rH N rH ir? SSSiSiS3iiSll§illSSliSSgS3Slll§S2' i i I i 1 1 1 s £ £ I § 1 1" 1 1 1 1? § i 1 1 i $ i £ $ $ £ ii i § s's" Haas's a a" £ a tf 3" e"-*sf 3 § ill ill Ig ii is is ii i g it it i I :S : i « \ s af sC g j a" I * \ i : »" ! * ii it js ii 12. a" 1 -r-r- i f i g o I I j § § 1 1 1 i 3 i 1 1 1 § 1 1 1: 1 1 i 3 1 i 1 11 § g 8 2 i § I rH rH~ CO rH C~~ £ JO feT of rH Iff £ S ll^slllllIallllllsllsslslSIIisllafi i i" 1 1 §' i s i s g s i s s § t g f i § i i § i i g' s s i i i i"!^ a a g a a S s's'a'f °f gf sf * g " s j " f s |J ' i Ms lis Is ii TiTi7i~Ti ia ii ; § § g i i i-i 3 S i i 1 3 I s * 5 I S 1 a I 3 § 13111 lalllls III ff* CD t CD . CD ii : " -j 3 — [& : «r 1 rH 90, 573 3, 802 174, 664 101, 872 35 ! O • O • . ^ . - of i 1 rH cll, 350 I 8 CO" 408, 592 c9, 072 874, 119 467, 025 c!94 iitii £ •» of • t-" J i ii i ii i I i U I i I i i s i iiil i ll I i Ii i I i I II 318 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. t CO" 1 1 1 § 1 1 § i i £ i £ 0 1 1 p f $ § £ t i i i 1 ti 1 l is i i 1 s"f s i ii if f 1 ii sit mat * If s" I s " S 1 8 1 1 S I § I § I s 1 1 i i i 1 1 1 1 f i 1 EH 5 1 s 1 3 1 s 1 1 § a § 1 1. 1 s ' g 1 1 1 0 1 ^ s 1 § 1 § ! I" s i s S s 1 1 1. 1 1 1 1 1 3 i g 1 1 i i i f rH r-T » CO" rH CO lO co to co" hT hT CO" O rH ^ £ I to iUiiiUiiiiiiUiiUUiiiiii WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 319 NET IMPORTS OF MANUFACTURES OF WOOL, Values of Manufactures of Wool Imported into the United States from the Principal and all other Foreign Countries; the Total Values of Foreign Manufactures of Wool Exported, and of the Net Imports, 1821 to 1889. FROM EUROPE. Year ending' — Great Brit- ain and Ireland. France. Germany. Nether- lands . Sept. 30 — Dollars. Dollars. Dollars. Dollars. 18*> 1 6, 950, 403 89, 335 81,061 57, 315 1822 11, 384, 003 204, 418 43, 006 82, 991 1823 7,711,311 90, 250 63,313 50,712 1824 7, 778, 873 126, 303 117, 730 74, 627 18^5 11,335,884 341, 448 153, 522 97, 860 1826 7, 780, 272 464, 817 230, 137 95, 074 1827 8, 146, 332 499, 102 88, 623 42, 115 18^8 8, 025, 677 592, 014 107, 157 49, 976 1829 6, 380, 844 608, 018 125, 356 61, 637 1830 5, 218, 283 522, 511 97, 307 49, 185 1831 11, 656, 322 1, 214, 628 249, 086 44, 889 1832 9, 434, 176 790, 484 140, 965 25, 745 1833 12, 241, 725 1, 148, 113 179, 789 76, 517 1834 6, 946, 935 336, 864 82, 515 18, 781 1835 16, 667, 993 1, 996, 782 318, 542 106, 067 1836 20, 295, 069 3, 541, 592 590, 897 87, 564 1837 7, 668, 569 2, 251, 331 372, 292 30, 974 1838 10, 191,732 2,412, 363 417, 856 24, 133 1839 15, 400, 624 4, 428, 108 k 969, 014 30, 539 1840 7, 851, 329 2, 533, 227 298, 082 11,870 1841 9, 250, 231 3, 357, 091 148, 924 3,828 1842 6, 436, 478 2, 836, 687 198,596 1,180 June 30 1943 a 1, 993, 076 842, 594 39, 197 903 1844 7, 861, 601 3, 228 040 184, 064 9, 896 1845 8, 318 614 A AQR Q7Q *± , rtU\J) O i O 5 804 1846 6, 498, 713 5 436 553 4fifi 818 2fi 969 1847 7 9Q0 4.71 ^ 9^7 10^ 70Q ROO 8 210 1848 10 222, 459 6 38fi ^fi^ U, OOU, OUu 22 132 1849 9, 755, 534 4, 542, 066 1, 494, 084 24, 922 1850 12, 229, 042 4, 666, 681 1, 681, 676 75, 249 1851 15, 511,351 4, 374, 493 1, 878, 806 12, 336 1852 14, 303, 266 4, 098, 866 1, 698, 299 16, 933 1853 22, 012, 887 5, 648, 985 3, 494, 723 13, 033 1854 26, 127, 308 5, 742, 374 4, 996, 269 21, 342 1855 17, 599, 507 5, 336, 976 3, 419, 626 30, 717 1856 21,786, 266 7, 913, 417 4, 673, 920 16, 011 1857 21, 631, 678 7, 759, 592 4, 535, 118 36, 912 1858 17, 714, 424 5, 750, 608 4, 636, 212 47, 201 1859 24, 549, 811 5, 703, 378 6, 275, 671 23, 837 1860 29, 202, 264 6, 237, 268 6, 873, 562 6, 128 1861 21, 244, 012 3, 698, 126 4, 747, 714 12, 105 Bel- gium. All other. Total. Dollars. 29, 052 19, 170 22, 120 85, 382 59, 703 26, 817 87, 398 93, 637 141, 740 205, 906 66, 797 356, 435 279, 308 311,323 356, 775 410, 874 930, 975 944, 759 496, 609 476, 445 610, 745 611, 668 774, 950 694, 080 1, 029, 480 1, 151, 037 435, 141 328, 297 321, 121 Dollars. 313 23, 210 1, 548 867 14, 785 20, 341 1,940 7, 932 410 1, 119 8, 122 9,729 1,141 3,594 1,424 1,540 16, 657 1,102 8, 572 3,752 12, 971 2, 662 1,216 6, 501 3, 331 11,038 4,418 5, 527 9, 336 8,420 8, 757 2, 837 6, 244 7, 504 5, 161 3, 572 7, 507 8,601 35, 223 3, 357 1, 888 Dollars. 7, 178, 427 11, 737, 628 7, 917, 134 8, 098, 400 11,943,499 8, 590, 641 8, 778, 112 8, 782, 756 7, 176, 265 5, 888, 405 13, 173, 047 10, 401, 099 13, 676, 337 7, 407, 859 19, 112, 928 24, 602, 044 10, 399, 526 13, 074, 003 20, 984, 255 10, 791, 897 12, 914, 785 9, 681, 509 2, 943, 783 11, 646, 537 13, 398, 940 12, 751, 414 L3, 626, 579 18, 369, 042 16, 756, 917 19, 605, 827 22, 282, 352 20, 596, 646 31, 786, 617 37, 506, 465 27, 166, 937 35, 087, 266 35, 000, 287 29, 308, 083 37, 023, 061 42, 650, 876 30, 024, 866 a Nine months* 320 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOU Net Imports of Manufactures of Wool — Continued. Year ending- FROM EUROPE. Great Brit- ain and Ireland. France. «. Germany. Nether- lands. Bel- gium. All other. Total. -LSUll/lVi o. X/UH(t( 0 . Thrill firss ft rc -LJVUiiAil 0 . ~T~\f\ lift i« 0 11 8*>4 35Q 603 047 2 894 753 £/j 0«7TT) 1 OO 14, 696 143 Qfi3 1 401 15 489 91 Q 16 571 75Q 1, 146, 717 3 406 595 Q) *rv/U) 0£>0 11 661 981 936 6 952 91 494 850 4X, *k£n^ OOU 97 8^Q 739 583 483 4 007 704 742 311 871 7 256 32 770 788 04, i t v, 1 OO 17 919 12*1 X I , — 1 — , X4U 701 697 2 774 269 5 822 119 530 630 20 807 073 4.7 340 242 2 141 502 8 435 045 8 441 227 063 308 58 152 601 qi 4fi7 054 4 388 373 7, 293, 944 6, 198 260 440 ^W) TiV 5, 080 46 421 089 94 35Q 155 9 887 43Q 4 6*>9 8^5 rT) www, OUtJ 1 848 512 774 11 917 97 Qfi5 6^0 3 584 096 4. 2T7 TT) ^jO 4 <, OOO 4 375 85 453 18 260 35 895 152 9 s * 537 394 5 465 299 5 404 Q45 V) *V^t) V±0 13 2 581 227 577 36, 637, 662 QQ 4^3 09Q 3 057 904 4, 460, 731 33 271 157 495 182 394 46 344 194 40 2Q0 13fi fi 1QQ 468 8 668 263 41 84 306 41 160 55 283 374 38 845 244 4 071 833 10 120 371 7 362 79. 093 2 971 53, 126 874 31 332 534 q 571 305 7, 218, 899 3 781 429 237 *x4t7j £dO % 11, 748 48, 567 544 27 689 11Q w 1 ) VFO*7j XX«7 11 863 48fi 6, 176 837 14 962 442 829 7 758 46, 194 991 20 490 992 8 735 95 (J 1, 882, 703 76, 471 482, 816 2, 346 30, 471 278 14 180 fill JL*±j iOvfj VJXX 7, 852, 530 4, 197, 162 165, 897 327, 842 4, 883 26, 728, 925 14 305 7Q7 7, 206, 015 4, 477, 894 179 209 223 562 1, 576 26, 394, 053 12 447 843 8, 769, 836 3, 704, 286 247, 393 236, 488 1, 918 25, 407, 764 lq 741 n«o 9 696, 716 4, 834, 315 492, 464 441, 070 5, 795 35, 211, 420 17, 125 936 8 727, 900 5, 529, 430 593, 061 808, 473 16, 258 32, 801, 058 19, 304 355 10, 938, 105 5, 998, 420 464, 219 1, 614, 946 116, 105 38, 436, 156 1Q 850 918 1 r » Q72 1QC 6 879,471 366, 567 1 863, 554 136 283 45, 068, 289 19 20Q 351 4%J\f) OOJL 11 071 945 9, 654, 420 7, 732 474 995 401, 189 40, 909, 632 16, 596, 096 9, 472, 430 8, 891, 239 6, 835 309, 465 293, 826 35, 569, 891 21, 692, 001 9, 977, 444 8, 722, 643 14, 388 432, 966 380, 107 41, 219, 549 21, 985, 718 11, 280, 890 10, 206, 151 7,724 521, 317 629, 365 44, 633, 263 23, 931, 615 11,498, 901 10, 792, 403 7, 455 677, 181 529, 385 47, 436, 940 28, 280, 436 12, 102, 032 10, 761, 980 3, 976 652, 694 527, 658 52. 328, 776 29, 107, 893 13, 472, 462 12, 318, 783 7, 006 755, 966 655, 862 56, 317, 972 19, 492, 661 9, 913, 983 9, 830, 013 7,271 590, 185 880, 835 40, 714, 948 16, 459, 901 9, 060, 160 8, 497, 441 12, 329 554, 401 685, 113 35, 269, 345 18, 444, 780 8,923, 182 8, 739, 613 8, 523 550, 531 1, 024, 881 37, 691,510 June 30 1862 1863 1864 1865 1866 1867.. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Net Imports of Manufactures of Wool — Continued. 321 Tear ending— Sept. 30- 1821 1822 1823 1824 1825 1826 1827 1828 1829 1830 1831 1832 1833 1834 1835 1836 1837 1838 1839 1840 1841 1842 June 30— 1843 b 1844 1845 1846 1847 1848 1849 1850 1851 1852 1853 1854 1855 1856 1857 1858 1859 1860 1861 1862 1863 1864 1865 1866 1867 1868 1869 From M< J \i<'<>. From West Indies. From South Amer- ica. (a) (a) (a) 7, 500 22, 158 49, 544 28, 019 330 25 236 ! 330 1 719 7.212 1.647 4. 430 10, 330 11, 465 1 , 984 601 2, 112 Dollars. Dollars . Dollar 6, 405 5, 869 24. 642 20. 983 34, 366 17,319 | 9,797 19,455 I 5.231 4,914 | 7.802 I 10,068 13,421 1.817 8,657 I 8,971 | 3, 184 20,054 ! 16,498 3,284 i 3,102 2, 065 346 1,955 7, 465 1, 732 272 1, 188 431 5, 396 107 258 33 12 1. 120 440 34 135 60 133 26 142 3. 911 4, 115 207 3, 051 4, 536 274 18, 937 659 30 531 705 2, 245 245 158 785 463 1. 383 3, 254 2, 697 4. 968 4, 357 3,642 4,247 7. 354 1,247 4, 018 4, 636 6, 562 453 1, 795 28 1 , 345 4. 409 2, 946 256 353 1, 219 3, 060 309 1, 130 50, 733 85, 441 9,399 106,970 3.379 115,636 1,825 832 2, 466 931 35, 161. 71, 234 83, 845 102, 278 108, 715 137, 206 77. 955 1, 587 19,300 508,173 78,762 196,874 54, 936 12, 664 19, 208 16, 573 2, 749 896 159 55, 578 From Asia and Oeean- ica. Dollars, 34, 278 228 1,583 150 20, 055 7,825 7, 333 2. 099 3, 655 506 831 10, 873 6, 234 3. 517 2. 943 852 448 a Included in South A H, Mis. 94 21 985 6, 701 205 109 18, 474 97. 516 164, 791 10, 526 23. 388 18, 933 8, 833 4, 072 59, 914 9, 332 22, 530 320, 933 462, 045 354, 259 154, 640 99, 447 127, 891 328, 961 252, 332 12, 582 552 1, 356 1,612 6, 516 17,038 30, 087 28, 677 merica. From Africa. From all other coun- tries. Dollars. 159 282 Dollars. 487 164 259 23 66 12 2, 616 150 6, 615 37 43 | 63 ! 61 245 456 567 297 140 18 14 2, 597 486 543 1, 077 686 295 148 1,670 76 2, 307 14, 415 2, 680 174 4, 194 668 109 111 12 23 354 15 33 2, 034 1,335 866 2, 427 894 10, 030 101 2, 374 2,«94 25 2, 599 20 115 2, 982 2 19, 924 585 111 53 813, 353 15 331, 978 5 314 62 630 Total im- ports. Total foreign ex- ports. Net im- ports. DoHars. Dollars. Dollars. 7. 238, 954 379, 252 6, 859, 702 11, 752,595 190, 563 11,502, 032 7, 953, 433 463, 071 7, 490, 362 8, 124, 687 555, 973 7, 568, 714 12, 017, 468 696, 905 11,320, 563 8, 657, 424 466, 314 8, 191, 110 8, 866, 226 252,173 8, 614, 053 8, 842, 389 194, 658 8, 647, 731 7, 193, 653 212, 748 6, 980, 905 5, 900, 988 235, 545 5, 605, 443 13, 197, 364 307, 209 12, 890, 155 10. 440, 490 391, 967 10, 048, 523 13, 713, 141 525, 883 13. 187. 258 7, 444, 035 818, 042 6, 625, 903 19, 151, 950 382, 655 18, 769. 295 24, 637, 881 515, 504 24, 122. 377 10, 410, 782 558, 757 9, 852, 025 13, 130, 956 266, 052 12, 864,904 21. 024. 427 242, 333 20, 782, 094 10, 808, 485 443. 393 10 365. 092 12, 943. 883 187, 626 12, 756, 257 9, 689, 648 146, 524 9, 543, 124 2, 971, 456 71, 172 2, 900, 284 11, 751, 971 71. 888 11,680, 083 13, 578, 352 237, 546 13. 340, 806 12, 778, 854 350, 230 12, 428, 624 13,664, 102 349, 551 13,314, 551 18, 405, 461 235. 102 18. 170, 354) 16, 779, 501 247, 942 16, 531, 559 19, 620, 619 227,748 19. 392, 871 22, 358, 879 331, 669 22. 027, 210 20, 611, 286 285, 375 20, 325, 911 31,819, 771 434, 906 31,384, 865 37, 904, 473 1,467, 711 36, 436. 762 27, 754, 372 2, 714, 680 25, 039, 692 35, 582, 712 1, 438, 889 34, 143, 823 35, 289, 345 483, 629 34, 805, 716 29, 534, 655 225, 838 29, 308, 817 37, 295, 594 268, 301 37, 027, 293 13, 141, 988 309, 347 42, 832, 641 30, 430, 140 192, 561 30, 237, 579 15, 63,9,913 237, 511 15, 402, 402 21,524, 802 237, 183 21, 287, 619 33, 349, 702 230, 886 *33, 118,816 21,929,487 570, 083 21,359, 404 58, 719, 754 219, 662 58, 500, 092 46, 502, 952 1.14, 118 46, 388, 834 32, 489, 342 593, 941 31,895,401 36, 077, 875 479, 442 35, 598, 433 I) Nine months. 322 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Net Imports of Manufactures of Wool— Continued. Year ending — From Mexico June 30— 1870 1871 1872 1873 1874 1875 1876 1877 1878 1879 1880 1881 1882 1883 1884 1885 1886 1887 1888 , 1889 , 1890 1801... , 1892 , 1803 , Dollars. 3, 522 1,717 507 49, 302 1,913 380 4, 224 407 557 677 708 1,346 2, 636 1,823 2, 113 15, 298 15, 096 6,945 4, 830 7,833 14, 816 2, 024 6,318 1,558 From West Indies. Dollars, 36, 386 51, 769 13, 703 873 1,463 251 913 312 199 507 277 1, 599 456 259 406 133 257 269 360 466 498 507 226 221 From South Amer- ica. Dollars, 241, 678 136, 584 36, 633 1,934 1, 030 964 10, 532 559 102 190 457 557 102 155 36 228 524 3, 797 127 588 129 98 51 219 From Asia and Ocean- ica. Dollars. 94, 491 128, 260 92, 060 105, 413 95, 505 79, 567 146, 253 166, 707 95, 395 106, 964 130, 012 149, 062 257, 752 373, 258 213, 221 165, 247 150, 365 226, 011 253, 475 205, 514 226, 421 309, 374 270, 156 334, 528 From Africa. Dollars, 36 104 171 363 63 290 345 19 5, 426 3, 351 401 696 6, 226 2, 048 524 530 3, 177 7, 465 17,714 8, 930 10, 645 From all otlier coun- tries. Dollars 280 3,747 195 12 40 83 23 25 11, 533 333 266 531 56 920 2,000 1,252 10 286 153 Total im- ports. Dollars. 37, 064, 001 46, 713, 767 55, 561, 850 53, 510, 560 48,826,816 46, 348, 545 34, 859, 506 26, 911, 873 26, 505, 573 25, 527,117 35, 356, 992 32, 970, 307 38, 726, 925 45, 457, 307 41,157,583 35, 776, 559 41, 421, 319 44, 902, 718 47, 719, 393 52, 564, 942 56, 582, 432 41, 060, 080 35, 565, 879 38, 048, 515 Total foreign ex- ports. Dollars. 387, 367 398, 295 467, 589 741,397 595, 119 461, 777 601, 656 373, 753 419, 044 343, 266 343, 767 648, 371 345, 545 282, 192 348, 530 706, 484 407, 089 274, 435 288, 944 273, 184 244, 898 215, 578 256, 430 245, 921 lS r et im- ports. Dollars. 36, 676, 634 46, 315, 472 55, 094, 261 52, 769, 163 48, 231, 697 45, 886, 768 34, 257, 850 26, 538, 120 26, 086, 529 25, 183, 851 35, 013, 225 32, 321, 936 38, 381, 380 45, 175, 115 40, 809, 053 35, 070, 075 41, 014, 230 44, 628, 283 47, 430, 449 52, 291, 758 56, 337, 534 40, 844, 502 35, 309, 449 37, 802, 594 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 323 IMPORTS OF WOOL BY GEOGRAPHICAL DIVISIONS. Quantity and Value of Raw Wool Imported into the United States, by Customs Districts and Geographical Divisions, 1856 to 1893. Tear ending June SO — 1856... 1856 a. 1857. . . 1857 a. 1858... 1858 a. 1859... 1859 a. 1860... 1860 a. 1861... 1861 a. 1862... 1862 a. 1863... 1863 a. 1864... 1864 a. 1865. . . 1865 a. 1866... 1866... 1866 a. 1867..., 1867 a. 1868.... 1868 a.. Atlantic ports. Baltimore, Md. Founds. 358, 062 Dollars. 50, 850 Boston and Charles- town, Mass. Pounds. 8, 607, 268 Dollars. 895, 380 New York, N". Y. Pounds. 5, 516, 806 305, 216 6 965, 829 9, 351,024 619, 013, 407 1, 144, 943 2, 661, 877 2, 243, 651 2, 233, 159 6, 503, 428 6 8, 314, 543 135, 218 b 875, 031 114, 240 55, 139 614, 957, 673 610, 634, 091 614,458, 676 6 275, 695 6 12, 166, 841 b 10, 366, 231 6 661, 194 509, 857 105, 791 63, 826 584, 029 57, 861 618, 686, 233 6 4, 670 13, 407, 116 6 886 20, 594, 794 2, 869, 480 934 2, 089, 647 124 3, 342, 621 24, 536, 302 49, 952, 898 163. 946 6 76, 192 686, 092 24, 230 26, 667 79, 825 243, 394 30, 201 918, 934 98, 382 5, 872 357 1869 272, 307 29, 062 1870 242, 756 25, 763 1871 1,109 108 1872 30, 017 4, 877 1872 a 62, 535 583 1873 25, 684 3, 893 1874 12, 793 1,624 1875 28, 519 3,966 1876 13, 681 2, 257 1877 39, 442 4, 945 1878 8, 666 816 1879 1880 83, 693 15, 512 1881 49, 874 5,915 1882 1883 110, 4S0 16, 399 1884 1885 1886 i887 7,522 23, 554, 872 6 204, 094 11, 695, 328 6 194, 911 22, 873, 030 6 44, 884 6 132, 502 13, 677, 145 6 1, 281, 028 9, 106, 664 6326, 628 14, 354, 605 16, 582, 175 25, 616, 468 52, 545, 362 63, 480, 204 36, 974, 345 16, 254, 553 24, 384, 420 14, 646, 812 19, 646, 763 22, 148, 747 16, 778, 786 57, 474, 670 18, 811, 088 27, 111, 894 31, 429, 249 31, 435, 318 27, 890, 301 48, 398, 849 40, 924, 821 3, 821, 71, 1,772, 76, 3, 118, 19, 58, 2, 036, 230, 1, 266, 58, 1, 999, 2, 303, 3, 721, 10, 651, 800, 8, 539, 2, 922, 4, 958, 2, 522, 3, 508, 4, 006, 2, 102, 12, 011, 3, 589, 4, 488, 4, 976, 5, 588, 3, 885, 7, 407, 6, 555, 139 433 016 015 882 300 301 717 585 011 793 080 687 115 232 447 873 933 379 941 670 403 200 450 299 187 028 712 009 541 802 60, 938, 379 b 143, 129 27, 380, 225 6 75, 821 44, 342, 058 6 64, 121 28, 213 20, 414, 432 3, 453, 006 6 394, 694 67, 098 13, 283, 400 2, 083, 452 a696, 964 118, 489 21, 105, 799 2, 807, 744 28, 805, 700 3, 497, 284 37, 833, 991 5,011,049 59, 869, 356 12, 786, 160 6637, 725 160, 254 39, 828, 678 8, 874, 743 21, 691, 625 3, 965, 458 24, 902, 918 4, 570, 041 24, 421, 689 4, 240, 314 17,114,545 2,518, 511 21, 918, 155 3, 338, 398 17, 660, 397 2, 159, 824 57, 916, 682 9, 318, 866 30, 319, 866 4, 842, 153 35, 126, 624 5, 482, 841 32, 021, 876 4, 714, 456 37, 150, 111 5, 104, 870 34, 330, 390 3, 939, 893 59, 980, 836 6, 617, 451 55, 752, 888 7, 325, 121 a Value of wool pelts and estimated quantity of wool thereon. 6Quantity estimated. 324 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Imports of Wool by Geographical Divisions — Continued. Atlantic ports. Year ending Jun< Baltimore, Md. I Pounds. 1888 , 16,397 J 889 124,560 1890 1 29 1891 j 234,724 1892 i 3,485 1893 1 84,007 Dollars. 8, 951 14, 955 3 22, 666 75 j 4,416 | Boston and Charles- town, Mass. Pounds. 48, 695, 587 48, 802, 319 45, 627, 499 54, 514, 353 70, 219, 999 77, 175, 955 Dollars. 7, 653, 244 8, 199, 954 7, 320, 443 9, 021, 290 10, 574, 235 10, 912, 509 New York, N. Y. Pounds. 50, 024, 351 53, 520, 892 43, 277, 715 51, 826, 412 60, 782, 172 65, 898, 287 Year ending June 30- 1856... 1856 a. 1857... 1857 a. 1858... 1858 a. 1859... 1859 a. I860... 1860 a . mi . . . 1861 a. 1862... 1862 a. 1863... 1863 a. 1864... 1864 a. 1865. .. 1865 a. 1866... 1866... 1866 a. 1867... 1867 a. 1868... 1868 a. 1869. . . 1870... 1871... 1872... 1872 a. 1873... 1874... 1875... 1876... 1877... 1878... Atlantic ports. Philadelphia, Pa. Pounds. 830 Dollars. 55 All other Atlantic ports. Pounds. 131, 152 Dollars. 11,980 Total. Pounds. 14, 614, 118 61,309 9, 236 265, 099 31, 484 16, 486, 076 5 217,864 j 30,501 j 641,323 8, 214 6 28, 552, 966 6 269. 543 37, 736 6 34, 879 4,883 b 30, 595, 802 b 494. 542 93, 963 b 191, 855 36, 453 b 23, 763, 024 5 139,838 ! 22.374 102. 314 18.534 652. 894 112, 127 1,666, 923 625. 357 b 6, 174 47, 914 6 37 387, 932 237, 396 470, 923 297, 790 543, 350 668, 366 1, 164, 578 317,011 1, 250, 613 1,362,299 1, 421, 200 757, 099 292, 187 109, 056 2, 408 8, 414 16 52, 080 38, 258 75, 325 33, 669 70,. 308 143, 139 310, 275 65, 966 291, 321 277, 222 272, 258 147, 136 b 162, 244 b 76, 515 2, 952, 752 6161,256 142, 574 b 406, 977 948, 509 b 121, 063 33, 898 b 78, 762 383, 905 610,351 6 80, 998 345, 698 b 60, 641 196, 430 6100, 659 974, 180 224, 199 275, 109 545, 365 6133 889, 692 153, 952 219, 546 147, 567 64, 681 37, 136 25, 959 15, 122 593, 195 23, 083 39, 891 43, 471 224, 085 40, 719 13, 109 31,505 64, 847 4, 451 35, 639 101,626 10, 309 57, 774 17, 112 274, 607 36, 131 47, 816 135, 368 32 244, 410 41, 822 61, 512. 38, 511 13, 320 8, 461 a Value of wool pelts and estimated quantity of wool thereon. 6 30, 015, 6 81, 41, 508, 6162 71,927. 6 406 : 87, 272. 6 544 40, 420, 6 355 : 67, 890, 6 55, 6 277, 35, 744, 6 1, 736, 22, 829, 61, 124, 37, 177, 46, 1 52, 64, 270, 13, 658, 64, 120, 78, 882, 38, 429, 50, 786, 40, 592, 38, 286, 44, 869, Quantity 740 185 341 ,142 189 ,977 629 ,478 ,900 ,668 ,301 272 621 141 363 762 ,251 814 620 027 466 597 977 934 016 048 631 ,803 estimated. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Imports of Wool by Geographical Divisions — Continued. Year ending June 30- Pounds. 1879 1,077,860 1880 6,997,663 1881 3,169,762 1882 2,443,062 1883 4,076,228 1884 5,515,282 1885 5,527,837 1886.. ! 14,689,851 1887 1 12,517,861 1888 I 12,754, 185 Atlantic ports. Philadelphia, Pa . 1889. 1890. 1891. 1892. 1893. 21, 487, 084 14,616,780 20,252,981 i 14, 547, 655 26, 382, 561 holla 118, 1, 160, 435, 398, 568, 819, 690, 1, 799, 1,778, 1, 653, 2, 761, 2, 004, 2, 614, 2, 104, 2, 881, 545 628 455 286 670 827 850 S03 456 721 170 031 030 565 || 408 1 1 All other Atlantic ports. Tounds. 32,698 I 127,339 | 106,987 214,198 14,451 11,056 67,943 1,990,878 1,289,473 911, 120 633,286 485,759 985,654 1,414,338 1, 141, 700 Dollars. 7,612 32, 401 29, 410 34, 242 3, 460 2, 525 16, 257 400, 676 274, 738 194, 594 165, 142 120, 581 227, 597 320, 164 205, 504 Total. Pounds. 35, 549, 741 22, COO, 047 52, 457, 577 64, 895, 778 67, 652, 284 74, 111, 767 67, 816,471 125', 060, 414 110,568, 942 112,401,640 124, 568, 141 104, 007, 782 127, 814, 124 146, 967, 649 170, 682,510 Dollars. 4,388,181. 22, 538, 858 8, 902, 232 10, 403, 556 10,279,013 11, 515, 934 8, 532, 009 16,225,471 15, 941, 039 15, 628, 477 17, 682, 157 14, 984, 209 17, 905, 859 19, 330, 860 20, 733, 700 326 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Imports of Wool by Geographical Divisions — Continued. Tear ending June 30- - 1856... 1850 a. 1857... 1857 a . 1858... 1858 a . 1859... 1859 a . 1860... 1860 a . 1861... 1861 a . 1862... 1862 a . 1863... 1863 a . 1864... 1864 a . 1865... 1865 a . 1866... 1866... 1866 a . 1867... 1867 a . 1868... 1868 a . 1869... 1870... 1871... 1872. . . 1872 a. 1873... 1874... 1875... 1876... 1877... 1878... 1879... 1880... 1881... 1882... 1883... 1884. . . 1885... 1886... 1887... 1888... ]889... 1890... 1891... 1892... 1893... GULF POUTS. Brazos de Santiago, Tex. Pounds. 140, 998 Dollars 7,204 Corpus Christi, Tex. Pounds. Dollar ATI other Gulf ports. Pounds. 200 Dollars. 16 Total. Pounds. 141, 198 Dollars. 7, 220 13, 750 696 13, 750 6 19, 150 6 2, 473 4,213 619,150 b 2, 473 b 77, 643 I b 4, 463 544 2 ; 275 b 66, 809 13, 830 610, 834 64, 463 12, 376 4,321 41, 537 61,528 1,230 6, 660 581 101 12, 376 6 1, 530 41, 537 6 1, 528 1,230 57, 062 3,602 ! 8, 956 6 206 11, 564 1,604 35 691 8, 956 6 206 68, 626 321, 288 293, 393 216, 475 139, 340 21, 772 23, 814 16, 135 14, 256 462, 520 564, 063 525, 357 354, 650 454, 474 303, 997 278, 654 406, 487 301, 977 128,103 1,462 65,320 265, 449 451,450 348, 813 14, 028 461, 219 1 95, 593 49, 075 60, 224 57, 965 39, 668 40, 955 28, 365 24, 388 46, 103 30, 138 11, 972 146 5, 157 17, 948 30, 843 29, 200 1,113 39, 012 17, 072 295, 310, 599, 876, 6 496, 549, 448, 429, 876, 436, 521, 876, 588, 41, 146, 890, 778, 845, 17, 161, 349 754 902 396 383 724 851 516 156 766 451 369 005 401 815 270 407 819 141 125 982 772 961 080 23, 571 21, 326 48, 694 96, 957 88 49, 591 46, 379 46, 052 40, 781 72, 617 34, 250 40, 489 94, 510 55, 673 4, 149 106 12, 563 71,259 61, 723 69, 714 1,534 15, 395 81 98 73 71 75, 020 4,596 49, 588 4, 376 45, 722 3, 518 156, 823 16, 135 6 22 5 197, 427 27, 674 34, 337 2,835 5, 272 448 8, 621 839 29, 392 2, 373 14, 969 1,262 15, 597 1,109 32, 244 3, 459 117, 607 13, 504 20, 406 1,784 226, 674 19,928 506, 495 33, 297 1, 146, 233 92, 823 610,944 47, 008 50, 400 4, 452 143, 759 13, 292 51,251 4,167 629 60 190 41 5, 888 1,176 691, 657 653, 735 862, 099 1, 172, 559 6 405 1, 156, 671 1, 148, 251 979, 145 792, 427 1, 360, 632 755, 417 815, 620 1, 314, 736 1,007,985 190, 324 1,732 438, 401 1, 662, 763 2, 375, 824 1, 804, 882 82, 410 766, 750 247, 805 1,709 263 5,959 a Value of wool pelts and estimated quantity of wool thereon. 6 Quantity estimated. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 327 Imports of Wool by Geographical Divisions— Continued. Year ending June 30— Pacific ports. Pounds. Dollars. 5, 360 551 b 30. 700 6, 447 b 721 137 b 4, 653 1,070 b 24, 852 5, 217 13, 893 1, 750 71, 748 10, 647 1864 82, 951 15,920 i an i /» 12,947 1, 639 22, 701 2, 692 6, 150 M 47 6, 708 &3, 679 19, 587 31, 303 59, 078 3, 083, 981 337 25 3,776 699 2, 201 3, 035 8, 500 763, 233 1868 1868 c 1869 1870 1871 1872 1873 1,603,699 552, 213 1874 554, 024 116, 215 1875 402, 823 59, 707 1876 262, 565 46,719 1877 258, 298 55, 156 1878 405, 956 63, 329 1879 129, 554 12, 768 1880 392, 434 48, 753 1881 9G3, 257 231, 290 1882 1, 713, 358 412, 851 1883 1, 622, 624 395, 133 1884 2, 290, 314 521, 031 1885 £2, 639 16, 574 1886 129, 958 12, 876 1887 255, 713 21, 987 1883 92, 842 14, 971 1889 86, 397 13, 660 1890 110, 347 14, 074 1891 47, 256 6. 204 1892 94, 470 18, 106 1893 141, 116 17, 179 Lake, ^Northern border and Interior ports. Total imports. Pounds. Dollars. Pounds. Dollars. 1, 525, 631 a 376, 799 16,280,947 2, 052, 042 b 554, 368 138, 592 554, 368 c 138, 592 1, 244, 970 a 309, 268 17, 750, 156 2, 435, 582 6 713,300 178, 325 713, 300 cl70, 325 926, 753 248, 701 29, 529, 569 4, 273, 207 Z>407, 635 81,527 407, 635 c 81, 527 2, 126, 387 a 524, 224 32, 725, 383 5, 021,903 b 476, 050 95, 210 476, 050 c 95, 210 1, 678, 786 a 340, 875 25, 524, 106 5, 184, 260 b 758, 849 151,768 758, 849 c 151, 768 1, 449, 002 a 318, 787 31, 494, 057 5, 007, 053 5 482,215 96, 624 563, 400 cll2, 680 1, 885, 642 563, 849 43, 407, 876 7, 094, 451 b 461, 073 101, 436 623, 215 cl24, 643 1 , 933, 007 759, 525 73,931,944 12, 555, 563 b 782, 807 117, 421 1, 189, 784 c 160, 892 3, 096, 046 1, 335, 319 90, 464, 002 15, 977, 406 b 240, 328 96, 131 786, 112 c 285, 437 3, 402, 024 1, 505, 502 43, 877, 408 7, 734, 346 b 185, 771 72, 718 542, 967 c 212, 797 4,021 1,281 67, 918, 253 9, 382, 795 b 2, 749, 924 1, 182, 467 2, 805, 196 1.206. 234 b 286, 918 126, 255 564, 539 c 248, 408 480, 954 161, 956 36, 240, 201 5, 905, 708 b 181, 465 32, 958 1,918, 181 c 341, 010 1, 220, 101 339,444 24, 125, 197 3, 793, 365 b 214, 209 42, 496 1, 342, 139 c 237, 589 1,380, 868 363, 000 39, 275, 926 5, 600, 958 2, 392, 541 794, 265 49, 230, 199 6, 743, 350 2, 866, 824 853, 200 68, 058, 028 9, 780, 443 4, 341, 493 1, 602, 838 122, 256, 499 26, 214, 195 b 129, 908 30, 469 4, 250, 910 c 991, 878 3, 852, 702 1, 782, 191 85, 496, 049 20, 433, 938 2, 807, 332 1, 026, 850 42, 939, 541 8, 250, 306 2, 733, 776 1,021,868 54, 901, 760 11,071,259 2, 995, 796 1,038, 365 44, 642, 836 8, 247, 617 2, 265, 631 668, 139 42, 171, 192 7, 156, 944 2, 417, 903 734, 595 48, 449, 079 8, 363, 015 2, 510, 240 567, 610 39, 005, 155 5, 034, 545 3, 824, 530 995, 970 128, 131, 747 23, 727, 650 1, 535, 417 471, 131 55, 964, 236 9, 703, 968 1, 062, 284 261,738 67, 861, 744 11 , 096, 050 1, 298, 838 274, 933 70, 575, 478 10, 949, 331 1, 510, 169 310, 096 78, 350, 651 12, 384, 709 1, 024, 297 208, 836 70, 596, 170 8, 879, 923 1, 518, 762 322, 345 129, 084, 958 16, 746, 081 1, 408, 493 314,931 114, 038, 030 16, 424,479 981, 861 236, 670 113, 558, 753 15,887,217 1,066, 441 210, 999 126, 487, 729 17, 974, 515 1, 065, 351 244, 480 105, 431, 285 15, 264, 083 1, 440, 559 319, 151 129, 303, 648 18, 231, 372 1, 608, 270 339, 094 148, 670, 652 19, 688, 108 1, 603, 653 312, 118 172, 433, 838 21,064, 180 a Includes total wool free of duty under reciprocity treaty, which can notbe distributed by districts. b Quantity estimated. c Value of wool pelts and estimated quantity of wool thereon. 328 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. IMPORTS AND DUTIES, 1821— 1866. General Imports of the Principal and all other Manufactures of Wool into the United States, and the Estimated Amounts of Duties Collected on the same, 1821 to 1866. Note.— Most of the classes of goods named in the various tariffs are enumerated in this table. The blanks under many of the classes do not indicate that there were no importations of such goods, but that, under the different phraseology of the several acts, on importation they were described and returned under some more general head, as "all other manufactures of wool," etc. Duties are estimated on the general imports and not on the net imports of manufactures of wool. BALMORALS AND SKIRTING OF WOOL, OTHER MATERIAL. WORSTED, OK Year ending- Pounds. Value. Duties. June 30 — Dollar*. Dollars. 1805 283,117 232, 864 161. 093. 68 1866... 394, 637 359, 049 238, 332. 48 BLANKETS. Value per pound not stated. Year ending- Value. Sept. 30— 1821 1822 1823 1824 1825 1826 1827 1828 1829 1830 1831 1832 1833 1 1,165,260.00 1834 1 1,068.065.00 1835 j 1,865,344.00 1836 2,397,822.00 1837 i 959,814.00 1838 ! 94t?, 546. 00 1839 | 1,356,086.00 1840 j 570,417.00 1841 ! 691,895.00 1842 ! 566.233.00 Dollars. 434, 256. 00 991,147. 00 604, 896. 00 526, 023. 00 891, 197. 00 527,781.00 I 703,477.00 I 624,239.00 455,467.00 j 594,044.00 j 1, 180, 478. 00 602, 796. 00 Duties. Dollars. 106, 064. 00 247, 786. 75 151, 224. 00 131, 505. 75 222, 794. 25 131,946. 00 175, 869. 25 1 56, 059. 75 159, 413. 45 207, 915. 40 413,167.30 210, 978. 60 407,841.00 181,932. 04 263,465. 35 388, 549. 20 144, 242. 42 148, 183. 94 166, 630. 75 88, 039 65 88, 507. 45 78, 235. 83 BL A NK ETS — 601) titiued . Value per pound not stated. Year ending— Value." Duties, June 30— Dollars. Dollars. 1843 a 201,454. 00 47, 363. 90 ! 1844 1, 004, 826. 00 214, 178. 10 1845*. 998 914. 00 219, 261.00 1846 633, 745. 00 141,896. 95 1847.. 803, 914. 00 166, 172. 65 1848 1, 146,587.00 229, 317. 40 \ 1849 1, 161,429. 00 232, 285. 80 | 1850 1, 244, 335. 00 248, 867. 00 ' 1851 1,506. 169.00 301, 293. 80 I 1852 1,046,361. 00 209, 272. 20 | 1853 1, 455, 659. 00 291. 131.80 1854 1.790,590.00 358. 118.00 ■ 1855 1, 170,642. 00 234, 128. 40 ! 1856 1, 205, 300. 00 241, 060. 00 : 1857 1, 630, 973. 00 326, 194. 60 1858 1, 574, 716. 00 236, 207. 40 ! 1869 1, 697, 386. 00 254, 607. 90 ! I860 1, 665, 181. 00 249, 777. 15 1861 h 1,341,048.00 223, 518. 35 1862 1, 945, 707. 00 635, 392. 55 442,431.67 1864 749, 793. 00 287, 160. 48 ; 1865 878, 908. 00 582, 386. 71 1866 b 539, 131. 00 428, 247. 31 1861. 41, 734 7, 928. 56 a Nine months. b Included in the totals for these two years are the following details 1861 1866 Pounds. Value. Pounds. Value. Valued at not over 28 cents per pound 430, 428 $86, 994 1, 808, 956 $368, 317 Valued at over 28 cents and not over 40 10, 344 2, 301 153, 036 57, 545 Valued at over 40 cents per pound 219 115 218, 390 113, 269 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Imports and Duties, 1821-1866 — Continued. 329 CARPETS AND CARPETING. Brussels, Turkey, Wilton, and treble ingrain Year ending — Square yards. Values. Sept. 80— 1824 1825 1826 1827 1828 1829 1830 1831 1832 1833...., 1834 1835 183G 1837 1838 1839." 1840 1841 1342 June 30— 1843 a 1844 1845 1846 1847 1848 1849 1850 1851 1852 1853 1854...!....,.. Dollars. 29, 299 85, 700 71,201 60, 750 60, 634 ' 64, 570 64, 885 127, 746 144, 066 104, 108 118, 008 205, 666 335, 680 223, 064 130, 034 282, 952 167, 650 207, 562 161,425 125,218 194, 172 259, 668 139, 496 276, 644 621, 153 397, 818 685, 328 842, 404 555, 088 809, 281 2, 299, 895 Venetia a a nd inq ra in . Sept. 30 1824 1825 1826 1827 1828 1829 1830 1831 , 1832 1833 1834 1835 1836 1837 1838 93. 502, 601 630, 763, 341, 182, 385, 512, 240, 257 395 614 833 161 cMnemou ,339 !, 378 , 452 871 360 593 870 839 793 ,668 , 022 ,441 974 324 218 ths. 77, 562 170, 713 210, 335 147, 820 197, 037 321, 812 514, 712 369, 906 194. 301 414, 809 246, 068 293, 048 208, S95 170, 188 272, 195 396, 963 229, 973 273, 805 595, 465 367, 975 626, 813 835, 174 559, 609 845, 058 1, 406, 337 123, 950 249, 980 346, 589 171, 606 199, 831 281, 272 449, 943 253, 195 121, 052 carpets and carpeting— continued. Venetian and ingrain — Continued. Year ending — Square yards. Values Sept, 30— 1839 1840 1841 1842 June 30 — 1843 a 1844 1845 1846 1847 1848 1849 1850 1851 1852 1853 1854 272, 086 127, 583 77, 768 50, 772 17, 550 23, 989 46, 778 33, 230 19, 241 74, 175 144, 558 148, 172 142, 540 129, 821 239, 157 353, 725 Dollars. 197, 798 92, 433 52, 440 33, 414 11, 622 17, 280 34, 951 23, 570 14, 059 38, 895 96, 433 93, 091 88, 655 75, 573 142, 817 165, 391 Wilton. Saxony, Aubusson, Brussels, Turkey, treble ingrain, Venetian, and other ingrain. 1855. 1856. 1857. 1858. 1859. 1860. 1861. 1862. 1863. 1864. 1,492, 952 2, 000, 586 1, 714, 093 559, 928 1, 092, 498 1,508,370 1, 327, 707 1, 929, 196 1 , 784, 196 1, 542, 600 2, 200, 164 2, 542, 523 1, 746, 049 466, 596 1, 016, 562 1, 658, 380 Baizes, bindings, bockings, and druggets. | 1833 i 1884 i 1835.. 1 1836 1837 ; 1.838 ; 1839 | 1840 i 1841 1842 June 30- 1843 a 1844 1845 1846 1847 1848 89, 427 108, 198 329, 986 436, 071 63, 457 179, 803 287, 354 144, 082 256, 634 157, 769 58, 018 125, 040 278, 456 265, 480 169, 933 (b) Included in flannels. 28, 319 40, 083 129, 434 168, 760 27, 137 61, 968 118, 620 51, 025 95, 863 59, 909 19, 670 40, 214 100, 332 88, 075 66, 427 (6) 330 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Imports and Duties, 1821-1866— Continued. carpets and CARPETING — continued. Baizes, bindings, bocldngs, and druggets — Cont'd. Tear ending- Square yards. Values. June 30 — * Dollar 8. 122, 485 51, 518 1850 237, 689 101, 256 1851.. 190, 492 110, 600 1852 184, 973 111, 051 298, 166 118, 203 1854 380, 973 113, 048 1855 378, 457 97, 578 1856 502, 244 117, 561 1857 491, 405 119, 835 124, 008 136, 174 200, 683 138, 781 68, 485 102, 910 20, 725 74, 473 1 R62 ISfU 1 1865 1866 51, 537 170, 148 Brussels carpets, wrought on the Jacquard machine, and all medallion or whole carpets. Valued at $1.25 or under per square yard. 1861 867 220, 536 1,113 213, 791 1865 Valued at over $1.25 per square yard. 1861 3, 731 105, 786 563, 671 7,250 156. 194 865, 878 1865 1866 Brussels arid tapestry Brussels carpet, and carpet- ing printed on the warp or otherwise. 1861 1,911 317, 590 1, 566, 207 1,446 290, 641 1, 424. 650 1865 I860 Treble ingrain and worsted chain Venetian carpets and carpetings. 1861 5, 340 10, 055 45, 044 409 7, 520 36, 642 1865 1866 Two ply, ingrain, and yarn Venetian. 1865 157 64, 047 86 46, 130 1866 carpets and carpeting— continued. Of wool, flax, or whatever material n ot otherwi provided for. Tear ending— Square yards. Values Sept, 30- 1824. 1825. 1826. 1827. 1828. 1829. 1830. 1831. 1832. 1833 1847. 1848. :849. 1850. 1851. 1852. 1853. 1854. 1855. 1856. 1857. 1865. 1866. June 30— 358 3,091 5, 570 14, 528 5, 179 26, 678 184 471 814 337 19, 611 247. 907 Dollars. 137 401 851 166 2, 017 8,827 28, 650 70, 700 72, 952 95, 785 229, 404 697, 087 178, 870 283, 122 397, 094 28, 549 204, 511 Mats, screens, rugs, all other mats of wool and other material. 1865. 1866. 89, 988 111, 492 Total carpets and carpeting. Tear ending- Values. Sept. 30— 1824 1825 1826 1827 1828 1829 1830 1831 1832 1833 1834 1835 1833 1837 Dollars. 37, 834 515, 391 545, 148 511, 186 581, 946 323, 254 201,649 421,094 557, 775 347, 911 436, 951 732, 518 1, 133,415 650, 238 Duties. Dollars. 38, 055. 169, 092. 187, 077. 221, 373. 222, 192. 190, 373. 118,601. 243, 858. 306, 176. 164, 171. 172, 192. 303, 344. 442, 529. 239, 887. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Imports and Duties, 1821-1866— Continued. 331 CARPETS AND CARPETING — continued. Total carpets and carpeting— Continued. Year ending — Val ues. Duties. Sept. 30— Dollars. Dollars. 1838 377, 321 139, 019. 38 1839 731,227 267, 500. 18 1840 389, 526 135, 318. 08 1841 441, 351 154, 734. 66 1842 302, 218 102, 577. 29 June 30— 1843 a 201, 480 83, 054. 92 1844 329, 689 131, 388. 50 1845 532, 246 199, 084. 34 1846 341, 618 125, 893. 90 1847 356, 308 90, 346. 85 1848 643, 187 192, 956. 10 1819 544, 576 163, 372. 80 1850.* 891, 860 267, 558. 00 1851 1, 107, 381 332, 214. 30 842, 018 252, 605. 40 1, 335, 482 400, 644. 60 2, 381, 863 714, 558. 90 1855 1, 604, 155 481,216. 50 2, 329, 879 698, 963. 70 1857 2, 301, 125 690, 337. 50 1858 1,666, 608 399, 985. 92 1859 2, 336, 338 560, 721. 12 1860 2, 743, 206 658,369.44 1861 1,895,048 466, 340. 30 1862 535, 081 b 160, 524. 30 1863 1, 016, 562 406, 624. 80 1864 1,761,290 704, 516. 00 1865 593, 703 312, 231.30 1866 2, 977, 567 1, 603, 762. 35 CLOTHING. Sept. 30— Dollars. Dollars. 1829 79, 136 39, 568. 00 1830 46, 789 23, 394. 50 1831 108, 242 54, 121. 00 1832 120, 443 60, 221. 50 June 30— 1843 a 175, 084 76, 092. 70 1844 931, 061 379, 041. 90 1845 1,173, 028 475, 934. 40 1846 847, 742 345, 536. 50 1847 676, 462 277, 728. 30 1848 650, 222 195, 966. 60 1849 587, 590 176, 277. 00 1850 813, 261 243, 978. 30 1851 1,058, 994 317, 698. 20 1852 1,368,812 410, 643. 60 a Nine months. b Estima clothing — eon tinned. x ear ending — V slues. Duties. June 30 — Dollars. Dollars. 185} 2, 307, 135 692, 140. 50 1854... 3, 927, 141 1, 178, 142. 30 1, 975, 662 592, 698. 60 1856 1, 978, 344 593, 503. 20 1857 1, 918, 988 575, 696. 40 1858 1, 283, 538 308, 049. 12 1859 1, 537, 284 368, 948. 16 1860 2, 102, 296 504, 551. 04 1861 1, 411, 726 423, 248. 81 1862 52, 320 26, 160. 00 1863 73, 472 36, 736. 00 1864 48, 206 24, 103. 00 1805 52, 829 27, 026. 72 1866 130, 880 66, 671. 36 CLOTHS AND CASSIMERES. Tear end- ing- Quantites. Sept. 30 — 1821...'. Pounds. 1822 1823 1824 1825..., 1826 1827 1828 1830 1831 1832 1835 1838 1840 1842 June 30— 1843 a 1846 1847 1848 1849 Values. Dollars. 5, 038, 255 8, 491, 935 5, 844, 068 5, 045, 159 5, 264, 562 4, 546, 714 4, 285, 413 4, 315, 714 3, 335, 994 2, 854, 339 6, 121, 442 5, 101, 841 6, 128, 194 4, 364, 340 7, 046, 755 8, 926, 382 3, 013, 460 5, 195, 965 7, 078, 906 4, 696, 529 4, 942, 807 3, 995, 577 1,356, 628 4, 777, 940 5, 411, 850 4, 192, 310 4, 527, 742 6, 364, 145 4, 995, 957 Duties. Dollars. 1, 007, 651. 00 1, 698, 387. 00 1. 168, 813. 60 1. 169, 337. 90 1, 593, 527. 10 1, 375, 296. 60 1, 427, 041. 52 1,437, 132. 76 1, 334, 883. 90 1, 284, 753. 30 2, 755, 074. 80 2, 296, 443. 95 3, 064, 097. 00 2, 051, 239. 80 3, 311, 975. 30 3, 923, 608. 00 1, 325, 923. 40 2, 130, 346. 00 2, 902, 350. 40 1, 784, 681. 40 1, 878, 289. 60 1, 398, 452. 00 542, 651. 20 1, 911, 176. 00 2, 164, 740. 00 1, 676, 924. 00 1,258,322. 60 1, 909, 243. 50 1,498,787. 10 mated 30 per cent. c Estimated. 332 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Imports and Duties, 1821-1866— Continued. cloths and CASSiMERES— continued. Year ending — Quantities Pounds. June 30- 1850 , 1851 1852 1853 1854 1855 1856 1857 1858 1859 ill, 259, 693 1860 ! 12, 787, 754 Values. Dollars. 6, 184, 190 7, 669, 520 6, 909, 742 11, 071, 906 13, 159, 583 9, 144, 861 11, 683, 476 11, 009, 605 7, 626, 830 Duties. 1861. 1862. 1863. 1864. 1865. 1866. 245, 517 4, 432, 392 4, 363, 993 9, 855, 327 4, 700, 021 13, 556, 472 299, 043 5, 441, 719 5, 147, 404 10, 698, 035 5,411,043 16, 676, 963 Dollars. 1, 855, 257. 00 2, 300, 856. 00 2, 072, 922. 60 3, 321, 571. 80 3, 947, 874. 90 2, 743, 458. 30 3, 505, 042. 80 3, 302, 881. 50 1, 830, 439. 20 2, 702, 326. 32 3, 069, 060. 96 104, 222. 79 1, 892, 316. 79 1, 810, 530. 16 5, 283, 369. 36 3, 292, 422. 24 9, 931, 316. 14 DRESS AND PIECE GOODS. Year ending- Sept, 30- 1821. 1822. 1823. 1824. 1825. 1826. 1827. 1828. 1829. 1830. 1831. 1832, 1833. 1834. 1835. 1836. 1837. 1838. 1839. 1840. 1841. 1842. Worsted stuff goods. Values. June 30- 1843 b . 1844... 1845... 1846... 1847... Dollars. 1, 766, 443 2, 269, 513 1, 504, 469 2, 158, 680 2, 277, 468 1, 143, 166 1 , 382, 875 1, 446, 146 1, 600, 622 1,397, 545 3, 392, 037 2, 615, 124 4, 281, 309 555, 121 a 6, 549, 278 a 6, 669, 312 a 3, 350, 266 a 3, 933, 455 a 7, 025, 898 a 2, 387, 338 a 3, 712, 206 2, 366, 122 456, 051 1, 835, 875 1, 938, 109 2, 658, 023 2, 924, 002 a Free. Silk and worsted goods. Values. Dollars. 625, 204 225, 450 123, 525 162, 884 233, 028 53,916 339, 824 51, 766 a 993, 377 a 3, 171, 023 a 1, 810, 947 a 1, 522, 272 a 2, 319, 884 a 1, 729, 792 a 1, 931, 328 1,311,770 318, 685 1, 292, 488 1, 510, 310 1, 778, 202 1, 965, 095 dress and piece GOODS— continued. Year ending — Worsted stuff goods. Silk and worsted goods. Values. Values. June 30 — Dollars. Dollars. 3, 858, 416 4, 070, 185 5, 004, 250 5, 419, 174 6, 296, 057 9, 796, 387 10, 375, 879 8, 590, 506 12, 236, 275 11,365, 669 10, 780, 379 12, 289, 574 15,018, 351 20, 944, 727 2, 456, 652 2, 452, 289 1, 653, 809 1, 783, 076 1, 667, 513 1, 880, 918 1, 594, 038 1, 133, 839 1, 335, 247 1,580, 246 1,249, 385 1, 623, 106 2, 193, 376 1856 1857 1858 1859 1860 1861 Delaines and dress goods. Year ending- Quantities. Values. June 30— Pounds. Dollars. 240, 722 307, 328 503, 993 515, 641 613, 248 ' 909,371 541 , 890 c 261, 963 1862... 23, 183 I 17, 229 '458, 471 540, 646 220, 670 677, 193 Of wool or worsted, wholly or in part. Gray or uncolored. Year ending — Quantitie.s. Values. June 30— Square yards. Dollars. 1861 5, 625 1,135 I, 744, 639 10, 069, 768 84, 697 7, 672, 987 39, 777, 952 C 289, 476 1864 1S65 < 436, 885 97, 414 1866 C 37, 539 10, 124 < 471,359 122, 839 Printed or colored. 28, 890, 882 74, 772, 895 8, 059, 127 21, 125, 097 1S66 b Nine months. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Imports and Duties, 1821-1866 — Continued. 333 DRESS and piece goods— continued. Total dress and piece goods. Year ending— Sept. 30— 1821 1822 1823 1824 1825 1826 1827 1828 1829 1830 183.1 1832 1833 1834 1835 1836 1837 1838 1839 1840 1841 1812 June 30— 1843 a 1844 1845 1846 1847 1848 1849 1850 1851 1852 1853 1854- 1855 1856 1857 1858 1859 1860 1861 1862 1863 1864 1865 1866 Values. Dollars. 1, 766, 443 2, 269, 513 1, 504, 469 2, 158, 680 2, 902, 672 1,368, 616 1, 506, 400 1,609, 030 1, 833, 650 1, 451, 461 3, 392, 037 2, 615, 124 4, 621,133 606, 887 7, 542, 655 9, 840, 335 5, 161, 213 5, 455, 727 9, 345, 782 4, 117, 130 5, 643, 534 3, 677, 892, 774, 736 3, 128, 363 3, 448, 419 4, 436, 225 4, 889, 097 6, 315, 068 6, 522, 474 6, 658, 059 7, 202, 250 7, 963, 570 11, 677, 305 11, 969, 917 9, 965, 067 13, 878, 850 13, 449, 908 12, 545, 405 14, 525, 928 18, 121,098 21, 487, 752 279, 192 2, 203, 110 10, 610, 414 8, 461,908 21, 935, 253 Duties. Dollars. 44 J, 610. 75 567, 378. 25 376, 117. 25 539, 670. 00 756, 928. 20 353, 426. 50 382, 776. 25 410, 401. 70 470, 063. 90 365, 561.05 848, 009. 25 653, 781.00 462,113.30 60, 688. 70 ENDLESS BELTS FOB, PAPEB, AND BLANKETING FOR PB INTI NG M A C HINES 735, 578. 40 232, 420. 80 938, 508. 90 1, 034, 525. 70 1, 330, 867. 50 1, 330, 278. 41 1, 578, 767. 00 1, 630, 618. 50 1, 664, 514. 75 1, 800, 565. 00 1,990,892. 50 2, 919. 326. 25 2, 992, 479. 25 2, 491,266. 75 3, 469, 712. 50 3, 362, 477. 00 2, 383, 626. 95 2, 759, 926. 32 3, 443, 008. 62 4, 140, 046. 29 84, 478. 1J 596, 624. 60 3, 583, 324. 96 4, 743, 299. 41 10, 603,441.05 # Nine Year ending — Quanti- ties. Values. Duties. . June 30 — 1861 Pounds. Dollars. 411,473 87, 213 146, 706 Dolla rs. 2, 868. 25 47,177.95 78, 490. 30 1865 1866 83, 267 135,716 FLANNELS. Flannels, not otherwise specified. Year ending— Sq. yds. Values. Duties. Sept. 30- 1824 1825 1826 1827 1828 1829 1833 1834 1835 1836 1837 1838 1839 1840 1841 1842 June 30— 1843 a 1814 1845 1846 1847 1848 1849 1850 1851...- 1852 1853 1854 1855 1856 1857 1858 1859 1860 1861 1862 1864 1865 1866 288, 407, 597, 635, 166, 199, 373, 153, 212, 75, 788 433 616 316 188 740 512 281 219 805 35, 596 93, 835 205, 130 163,974 117, 122 514, 121 170, 396 281, 779 334, 117 231, 948 298, 218 487, 239 356, 545 360, 991 1, 050 92, 642 1, 208, 606 Dollars. 156, 850 1, 065, 609 586, 823 587, 250 521,177 95, 034 118, 151 200, 580 270, 351 306, 952 84,112 98, 011 172, 753 67, 690 89, 048 30, 380 17, 779 37,795 | 76,055 j 68,776 | 50,210 | 206,895 ! 52, 339 88, 593 130, 489 87, 492 106, 381 143, 079 134, 811 100, 248 105, 779 137, 687 101, 911 178, 890 186, 778 30, 798 457, 410 83, 329 149, 615 Dollars. 47, 055. 00 319, 682. 70 176, 046. 90 mun t lis. 334 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Imports and Duties, 1821-1866— Continued. EATS AND HAT BOMES- Year ending- Sept. 30— 1833 1834 1835 1836 1837 1838 1839 1840 1841 1842 June 30 — 1843 a 1844 1861 1865 1866 Values. Dollars. 28 249 57 405 400 512 209 269 87 31 95 89 223 615 35, 772 Duties. Dollars. 2. 16 26. 46 53.95 269. 50 98. 94 118. 92 66. 22 76. 92 26. 18 7. 87 40. 04 34. 56 44. 60 307. 00 17, 886. 00 HOSIERY, SHIRTS, AND OTHER KNIT WOOL OR MIXED. Sept. 30— 1824 1825 1826 1827 1828 1829 1830 1831 1832 1833 1834 1835 1836 1837 1838.... 1839 1840 1841 1842 June 30— 1843 a 1844 1845 1846 1847 1848 1849 1850 1851 1852 55, 868 369, 747 189, 993 376, 927 365, 339 230, 986 133, 453 325, 856 260, 563 463, 348 383, 977 652, 680 700, 530 177, 092 356, 965 1, 037, 096 506, 452 471, 877 375, 297 61, 073 662, 905 741, 242 838, 866 621,680 731, 009 718, 794 718, 135 1, 211, 048 860, 997 16, 760. 40 110, 924. 10 56, 997. 90 113, 078. 10 109, 601. 70 80, 845. 10 46, 708. 55 114, 049. 60 91,197.05 115, 837. 00 17, 278. 97 29, 370. 60 28, 021. 20 7, 083. 68 12, 493. 78 36, 298. 36 15, 193. 56 14, 156. 31 9, 382. 43 18, 321. 90 198, 871. 50 122, 372. 60 251, 659. 80 186, 504. 00 219, 302. 70 21$, 638. 20 215, 440. 50 363, 314. 40 258, 299. 10 a Nine HOSIERY, SHIRTS, AND OTHER KNIT GOODS, OP wool or mixed— continued. Year ending — June 30 — 1853 1854 1855 1856 1857 1858 1859 1860 1861 1865 1866 Values. Dollars. 1,047, 686 1,272,857 1,083,957 1, 173, 094 1, 740, 829 1,837, 561 719, 415 831, 627 701, 942 321, 889 603, 808 Duties. Dollars. 314, 305. 80 381, 857. 10 325,i87. 10 351, 928. 20 522, 248. 70 441, 014. 64 172, 659. 60 219, 590. 48 168, 466. 08 129, 344. 10 246, 039. 20 FLOCKS, WASTE, OR SHODDY. Year ending- Quanti- ties. Values. Duties. June 30— Pounds. Dollars. Dollars. 1861 794, 273 47, 182 4, 718. 20 6, 291,077 442, 376 44, 237. 60 1863 7, 867, 601 581, 234 116, 246. 80 1864 8, 133, 391 621, 514 244, 001. 73 1865 4, 863, 064 410, 395 145, 891. 92 1866 7, 147, 108 589, 490 214, 413. 24 SHAWLS. Year ending - Sept. 30— 1833 1834 1835 1836 1837 1838 1839 1840 1841 1842 June 30— 1843 a 1844 1845 1846 1847 1848 1849 1.850 1851 months. Values. Dollars. 116, 029 12, 092 325, 671 405, 577 101, 466 248, 215 410, 856 133, 849 109, 707 187, 420 46, 874 324, 105 455, 155 365, 215 764, 447 1,411,-833 1,231,392 937, 388 1, 018, 036 Duties. Dollars. 58, 014. 50 6, 346. 00 742. 13 9, 215. 88 1, 022. 12 62, 714. 83 115, 811. 47 48, 111.42 37, 687. 64 64, 854. 30 18, 749. 60 129, 642. 00 182, 462. 00 146, 086. 00 245, 907. 90 423, 549. 90 369, 417. 60 281, 216. 40 305, 410. 80 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Imports and Duties, 1821-1866 — Continued. 335 shawls— continued. Year ending — Values. Duties. June 30— Dollars. Dollars. 1852 Ill, 081 215, 124. 30 1853 1,412, 389 423, 716. 70 1854 1, 476, 772 443, 031. 60 1855 2. 240, 104 560, 026. 00 1856 2, 529, 771 632, 442. 75 1857 2, 246, 351 561, 587. 75 1858 2, 002, 653 380, 504. 07 1859 2, 877, 352 546, 696. 88 1860 2, 806, 987 533, 327. 53 1 861 2, 032, 786 a r\~i fine oi 491, duo. 81 1862 105, 925 32, 467. 09 1865 34, 295 20, 580. 04 1866 32, 901 17, 354. 16 YARNS. Woolen. Year ending — Pounds. Values. Sept, 30— Dollars. 1833 4,640 1834 298 889 1835 1836 462 812 685 334 1838... s 282 80 1839 313 156 1840 1,547 807 1841 1,758 660 1842 2,670 1, 053 Worsted. 1833 1834 1835 1836 1837 1838 1839 1840 1841 1842 June 30— 1843 a 1844 1845 1846 1847 1848 1849 98, 079 166, 209 261, 626 211, 894 172, 128 136, 603 368, 802 103, 931 157, 564 216, 558 60, 961 159, 020 187, 975 266, 330 128, 833 143, 407 113, 463 a Nine months yarns— continued. Worsted — Continued. Year ending- June 30- 1850. 1851. 1852. 1853. 1854. 1855. 1856. 1857. 1858. 1859. 1860. 1861. 1862. 1863. 1864. 1865. Pounds. 479, 558 357, 967 413, 928 365, 333 Total yarm. Year ending- Sept. 30— 1833 1834 1835 1836 1837 1838 1839 1840 1841 1842 June 30— 1843 a 1844 1845 1846 1847 1848 1849 1850 1851 1852 1853 1854 1855 1856..... 1857 1858 1859 1860 Values. Dollars. 102, 719 166, 507 262, 515 212, 706 172, 462 136, 689 368, 958 104,738 158, 224 217, 611 60, 961 159, 020 187, 975 266, 330 128, 833 143, 407 113, 463 170, 639 216, 876 220, 259 280, 896 359, 341 160, 599 198, 746 192, 147 196, 285 386, 824 593, 371 Values. Dollars. 170, 639 216, 876 220, 259 280, 896 359, 341 160, 599 198, 746 192, 147 196, 285 386, 824 593, 371 461, 656 372, 533 383, 011 434, 549 395, 589 Duties. Dollars. 21, 471. 80 33, 355. 04 52, 663. 02 42, 685. 91 34, 567. 76 27, 357. 74 73, 822. 21 21, 081. 57 31, 766. 20 43, 680. 90 18, 288. 39 47, 706. 00 56, 392. 50 79, 899. 00 34, 692. 05 35, 851. 75 28, 365. 75 42, 659. 75 54, 219. 00 55, 064. 75 70, 224. 00 89, 835. 25 40, 199. 75 49, 686. 50 48, 036. 75 37, 294. 15 73, 496. 56 112, 740.49 336 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Imports and Exports, 1821-1866— Continued. yarns— continued. Total yarns— Continued. Year ending— Values. Duties. June 30 — Dollars. Dollars. 1861 a 485, 430 95, 652. 22 1862 372, 533 122, 231. 10 1863 383, Oil 150, 175. 74 1864 434, 549 163, 443. 76 1865 395, 589 188,943.03 18666 559, 667 273, 194. 56 ALL OTHER MANUFACTURES OF — Sept. 30— 1824. 1825 1826 1827 1828 1829 1830 1831 1832..... 1833 1834 1835 1836 1837 1838 1839 1840 1841 1842 June 30— 1843 c 1844 1845 1846 1847 1848 1849 1850 1851 1852 1853 1854 1855 1856 1857 1858 144, 273 1, 008, 272 892, 346 895, 573 824, 944 840, 132 619, 253 1, 648, 215 1, 181, 948 650, 368 203, 787 453, 404 713, 757 90, 525 315, 005 522, 554 221, 885 395. 293 336, 989 75, 292 390. 178 553, 468 788, 027 845, 409 790, 108 851, 487 1,014, 159 1, 237, 816 594, 954 1, 124, 932 1, 423, 330 274, 514 505, 004 693, 640 663, 372 43,281.90 ; 302,481.60 j 267, 703.80 i 298, 225. 80 262, 543. 11 287, 572. 03 286, 147. 66 744, 286. 82 533, 098. 16 322, 387. 88 95, 779. 89 213, 089. 88 314, 073. 08 39, 831. 00 129, 152. 05 214,247.14 84, 316. 30 150, 211. 34 117, 946. 15 30, 116. 80 158, 471. 20 221, 387. 20 315, 210. 80 298, 552. 10 237, 032. 40 255, 446. 10 574, 247. 70 371, 344. 80 178. 486. 20 337,479.60 420, 999. 00 82, 354. 20 151, 501. 20 208, 092. 00 159, 209. 28 ALL OTHER MANUFACTURES OF— continued. June 30 1859 1860 1861 1862 1863 1864 1865 1866 Values. Duties. Dollars. Dollars . 1, 853, 463 444, 831. 12 1,311,578 314, 778. 72 487, 975 118, 746. 08 6. 434, 262 1, 929, 678. 60 10, 822, 145 3, 808, 750. 75 7. 968, 491 2, 788, 971.85 4, 964, 907 2, 482, 453. 50 13, 982, 954 7, 008, 925. 14 GRAND TOTAL. Sept, 30— 1 821 1822 1823 1824 1825 1826 1827 1828 1829 1830 1831 1832 1833 1834 1835 1836 1837 1838 1839 1840 1841 1842 June 30— 1843 c .1844 1845 1846 1847 1848.- 1849 1850 1851 1852 1853 Dollars. Dollars. 7, 238, 954 1, 555, 325. 75 11,752,595 2, 513, 552. 00 7. 953, 433 1, 696, 154. 85 8, 124, 687 1, 985, 666. 80 12, 017, 468 3, 475, 430. 65 8. 657, 424 2, 548, 495. 20 8, 866, 226 2, 794, 539. 27 8, 842, 389 I 2, 754, 284. 92 7, 193, 653 2, 591, 229. 74 5, 900, 988 2, 333, 082. 21 13, 197, 364 5, 172, 566. 82 10, 440, 490 4, 151, 896. 41 13, 713, 141 4, 662, 142. 38 7, 444, 035 2, 681, 520. 85 a 19, 151, 950 4, 266, 176. 03 a 24, 637, 881 5, 242, 550. 43 a 10, 400, 782 1, 817, 292. 66 a 13, 130, 956 2, 677, 638. 18 a 21, 024, 427 3, 828, 925. 25 a 10, 808, 485 2, 196, 949. 08 a 12. 943, 883 2, 382, 876. 24 9, 689, 648 2, 559, 817. 42 2. 971, 456 1, 072, 055. 60 11,751,971 4, 124, 155. 56 13, 578, 352 4, 704, 477. 94 12,778, 854 4, 436, 930. 81 13, 664, 102 3, 903, 352. 77 18, 405, 461 5, 073, 711. 10 16, 779, 501 4, 583, 293. 60 19, 620, 619 5, 415, 887. 65 22, 358, 879 6, 179, 538. 55 20, 611, 286 5, 665, 183. 65 31, 819, 771 8, 797, 248. 80 a In 1861 there were imported of yarns exceeding No. 14, 5,441 pounds, value, $4,017; of yarns valued under 50 cents a pound, and not exceeding in fineness No. 14, 2,223 pounds, value $430; of yarn valued at 50 cents and not over $1, 6.289 pounds, Value, $5,075 ; of yarn valued over $1 a pound, 12,829 pounds, value, $14,252. bin 1866 the following imports of yarn are included in the total: Valued under 50 cents a pound and not exceeding in fineness No. 14, 7,499 pounds, value, $3,086; valued at 50 cents and not over $1 a pound, 45,081, value, $38,616; valued at over $1 a pound, 404,848 pounds, value, $517,965. c Nine months. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES . OF WOOL Imports and Duties/ 1821-1866 — Continued. 337 GRAND total— continued. grand total— continued. Year ending- Values. Duties. Year ending — Values. Duties. June 30— Dollars. 37, 904, 473 27, 754, 372 35, 582, 712 35, 289, 345 29, 534, 65:> 37, 295, 594 43, 141, 988 Dollars. 10, 568, 666. 05 7, 584, 269. 34 9, 718, 902. 85 9, 623, 996. 95 6, 202, 491. 26 7, 903, 577. 07 9, 139, 193. 53 June 30— 1861 Dollars. 30, 430, 140 15, 639, 913 21, 524, 802 33, 349, 702 21, 929,487 58, 719, 756 Dollars. 6, 282, 930. 79 4, 936, 725. 54 7, 368, 120. 52 13, 238, 984. 64 12, 177, 142. 57 30, 813, 761. 51 1862 1856 1863 1857 1864 1858 \ 1865 1859 1 1866 1860 t H. 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I 1 O 1 342 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. m i s ????? ??? a fit I s i 1 1 i i § 1 1 r-T rH r-T r-T CO CM' r-T rH liiisii III I 3 g CO § 5 i S il l S3 g g 5 co m rf - r-T ? 9 P s **.*.*'***:* 1 1 1 1 'S 1 I -8 I JJ II - 1 !1 II s.|!l III! I I 1 1 11 a s 11 II II 1 I! li ii I! I III I -s 5 ■§ -§ •§ tl ^11 1 ,M 11 11 •s •§ ■§ ^ ^ •§ ■§ I 11111111111.1 I I I III I mi 344 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. m m Of ?£5S 3 3 ? fl £ g £ | 5 53 ill! 1 1 1 of m in of r< §g§§ g g g s g - J g » g g g g § » s g 8 rJ OJ 00 Cj » Of -T Of ???? i~~ " ? 9 ? I s I S S illsllllaSslllill r4 " CO CQ CO tH CO ^ ! I s 1 I I •S -S £ ii II J all " " * o 1111 II lllllliliillilii 1 I I I ! I o ► 1 i !, I II WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OP WOOL. 345 8 S S § S S S §i S fl a ?i 8 S S ^ 8 8 S SSSSSSSgg 3 S IS' S S S g 8 ? 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CM CO OS s O CJ 3 O kd kO 0 co" CO kd CO CO 0 CM t- CO 10 kd 0 s CO 00 CO oi OS 01 id t> 00 CO ~r oi -n CO t> 0 :o co* CM OI kd CM oi t— 01 t> -r CO 173, 0 O CO OS CO rH OS 0 00 co t- r- 1 00 CO OS O) CO ss kft OS SO OI c CO t - OS CO OI OS 00 CM CO CJ ~H 0 oc to Iff CO co" co" CO so t> fe- 0 CO t? fe- rH ~r CM t- O O 0 CM 0 0 rH CO 0 kO X -0 fe- fe- CR es O OS O 0 § 1- os cm" CO f OS CM co' gs OI CI 00 co fe- oi t- CO -r CO ifi fcr CO 0 00 CO CO OS CO to 0 00 -H CJ ci as 35 0 CI CO CO 0 00 O t- CO* OS 242, oi OS CO oc" os U0 ftS ifi CO ©4 <* CO te CO co t> co CM oi 1ft CO c- fe- kO CO CO 01 CO ifS ■<* CO t- oc ■«# CO 0 00 CO r— | to co- co" r-l 0" CO kO kd kd 00" oi" 0" 0" kO kO kO t- CM t- CM ^ •HH OO O t- CO CO O kft O rH CO O0 00 CO 00 kO CO H H 00 w 00 OI CM 00 CO OS CO 00 kf} OS ^ rH rH O OS OS CO CM OS CM rH kO rH CM OS 00 O O t- O kfS -# CM CO CO O O kO> CO CO kO OI ^ O CO © O CM t)T tiT c t> 00" 00 CO kO r-< 03 ^ rrt o ft ft s § O Q ft ft 4a *-< Jh CJ ® s « ft ft o IS (£ h © ft -H 42 © H H O § o o ft o CP ^ ft CD *o ? CO kO rH 03 * rS ^ O O O O O ^ rf- r- r- r- rr^ OS O rH CM CO t~- cc 00 co 00 00 00 00 oc 00 O I 0 5 s * rS WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 379 § 8 S S 8 g S S K S o S 2 § S ° rl 4 i) C< Ci li (i gSMSS g 3 IMS'!" S^f-Sitf*!**** - ii SoiS§S5§S ? ? B ? ISiassil S I i 1 * ■* 1111 "is I i 1.1 Is 3 ill 1 11 1 1 ' liiM II j j i ?S : : : percent less 0 per cent percent less 0 per cent i if : MM . . . . o . . . per cent less JIM! UN! II ! j S M ;1 M i nu i per pound and 4 per pound and 40 cent per pound and 4 per pound and 4 per pound and 41 1 1 i i i i i i 1 1 i i . j 1 1 1 i i i i 4 - i i | i i i i i -§ 1 1 ^ | lllllsl | I.I I 1 1 1 1 II II I II 1 1 ~ | l| 3 380 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. mil CM © CM CM O CO CO (N ^ H O M M b« O © © t- iC, > > o 2 <1 * & tH W 00 co id ci © o t> t~ © i-l CO CO t"- O COCOCMCNCOCMCNrH rH © ^ CD CM OS CO O OS O) m CO iff TlT t» lO <* H rt N CO ©iT}©CM©irs©l- t-H QO OS CO ^ CO CO CO O) lO CO o o CO »ft T-l t> CO lO CO © OS CD i-l l> (D ifi f* CO N N t> IN CO 00 O rH O t* ■* O (C t~ o OS lf> t-t co~ oo~ "rtT —H CO i— I OS »0 rH O0 lO lO CO OS CO © © "* O M © t*- © © © © © O CO © o © o o CO If) H rl N CC ol © © CM © I- ^ CO CO ^ t- 3 CO CO O CO rl in COCOHh^OJlOO) CM ITS © lO t> lO CO iHlf)OSCM©OOlO© © OS OS r-T © © CO co m o h © a rH CM CO -«* "CP lO CM CO lO CO © U0 CO © CM QO co if) o o o © © © oooooo ,£ © © © © © © O £ QJ r£ r-j r- r- r- ft q ft ^ t>- CO © c- c- t> CO CO CO O i-l CM CO 00 00 CO CO 00 00 CO CO N CC CO O H CN © © © t- t- t- CO CO CO CO CO CO 3 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 381 r-l O O O O O O lO OS CO © . OS .«D t- OS 00i-HOO--IOOO t-r-ICDr-i-^COCOr-r-lr-l ©~ CO «o" r-J" co" cm" r-^ cm' co" os" Oi-iiooiauooot>-t>t*» ©rHCMCOiOCOCOCO i—i era o co co co iO QO rjf O CO o o CO r-l lO OS CO 3 % £ * ^ oooooooooo oooooooooo OOOOOOkfSOOOO oooocooi— icoeooo ooooosopoooo OOOOiOOOOOOO -^OCT.COOSCOCMuOOSOS C0OCM1000C0C0O05C- cm" co" o" co" o" co" t-^" of ■71 CO CO OS O lO K) l> «5 (O CO co i> m cm oo m © rH © © r-l tH CO CO iO O iO t- lO fc» oso^os^ocoos OS CO CO o tO (N N rH CM 00 CM tO 00 O CM [* ^ M OS O C- tH t~ t-CM©©OS©OSCO O CM lO O CO CO CO OO l> N H H if) CMCOt^r-COCOCOUOrH OCMOSOSOOOO-ft^ nt CD CO O CJ M r4 © CP ft ft iO iO CO CO d »d a fl eg e3 0 C3 O o ft ft (H - t"- co co co 382 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. fa * 5h Sr^^ CO <1 * > T t"" O UO O 35 CO H C3 o t- m co co c© 33 >> M OO O CD ^1 N H O CO !Q t> 1< o — T eo o o CM t~ CO O CO CO o o »o CO rH CO CO 16 io co o -n CO CI O H< CO CM' kO OOOOOCMOCDOO O O O O O t- O O CO o l>t-(N^COT((CO^CO«OlO rj< CO CM OOCMC^O©""*© CO CO cs r- i-H CO CO CO CT O O CO CO l> M O tD CI CO CO o no © © © CM © O O O ■«* CM 8 5! o I 00 o CM >0 fc- « cs ^ io CO CO CO h o.m a a co CO CO O CO iO ft § ft -i^ u Pi CP CP ft « ft CP W ft • CO io ft ft w ft GOOOOO+sOOO© COC^COOrHCMt-COCiO-HCM t-t-t-cocococococoL^t^r-. cocococococococococococo — ? © d o o ° * I a © £ s fa «H rfa d O ctf ft Pi I I WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 383 9 $ 9 s 9 a i S !SS § !S S 3 g 8 g iS J ^ ^ ^ »o os co « ■* iO w m CDOOOCOOOSirSCOCMt- C»OCOrH©GOOOOSOCOOSCMHi COOCMOCMOaOUOCM OS OO OS lO rH OS l> O O O r-< rH O O t- a to oo o o n rH CM rH U0 CO CO OS CM O Hi w> UO ^ q HiOSH<00COOSiOCO©CMOSOS kOOOCOrHGOHi.(MOOOSOSCO COCOCMUOCMCOOSOSIO os os cm m O O 00 CM CM CM oo co J N « » t» CO M £ CM t- tH CO © O ^ CO N CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO «ot~ot>cot-eoeo co©©r-©t-t>-<* COCONNNNNN O O 00 o o o OS rH rH CM CO t» • O t> l> 00 © o oo t- to rH CJ CO 00 rH rH rH CO tr- ee CO CO co cm to © © io it © © © to co CM IO © CO CM rH O CM rH CM O © O O O O © © H< © © © © © © © © © t- © © © ©©©t-to©o© ©©lO©tO©©© © © © © 00 tO © O CM CM tO CM © © CM © IO © CO © H N H N N CO © © C— CO lO © tO © CM o" a t> o tO CM t- © © to >o CO CM CO to t~ of os" -cm" CM © © © CO CO CO rH © © rH rH rH CO HH rH © CO CO © © © CM © Ol © TjH tO CM OO rH t> CO CM C I 33 CP 0 © CO 00 oo 00 (3 H D q CO H O Ph * © © t> CM -H © © CO IO CO rH tO CO © © © CO © rH © CMCOCOCOOOCO©tO CO HH © t— O0 CM rH COCMCMtOtO©t>© © © © t- © 00 oo © to co CO CO t> © CO © CM rH Tji 00 t# CO it CO CO Ol OO © CM tH O) t> CO T)t t« CO rH rH rH cent © n at : 3 per po S cu S Ph Cp © © - I- CO 00 O0 CO CO p €4 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL, 387 HH CO C© CO OJ O) (N «CO cccot-iococoor~ t~ *o t- t- CO ^ © Tti -Ot>CO H t> CO M Cd CO CO H CO CO CM CO CO CM rH m oo N m t> o os o co Ol t~- l> CO OJ H HH CO Tfl HH H< IO C- ^ o o CM CO 00 00 CO CM CO CO t~ CO t- os tJ< O CM OS t> CM H< CO . OS i-l H CO H > <*o CO © CO CO H* CM CM i— ( CO CO CM CO O t- lO lO O OS OS OO OOCOOOOuOCMOSOOOt-OOCMOO oooooooooo CMOOOt-OOOlOO N t- IO (N CO CO t- OS CM CM CO O ©NOW H p © © «3 N IN 00 O CO © ■** "ft r- © lO © © 1-H «M rH t- O ©©©©-# © © © © © © ©©-*©© © O © © © © © rH © © O © H ©' N H W Hi ©lOrH© "<# rH rH © !>• tH (M © © * CO H* ^ iO t~ 00010HNCOI>000)OH(N t^i^t-t-ooooooooco©©t~t-t^ cooooo-oooocooooooooocooooooo 3 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 389 S 3 S S3SSS£g£££s3&£ 88 3-89-8iSS-3S'&S'8 8'd8-8,9 i < § i g § *ti § i 1 1.* 1 1 s •* r* § i § 1 1 1 1 1 1 sir cd « csf * ca co ci of ^ *T © £ g £ 3 g g g § § § s r^§ § ? g g o o 8 § 8 § § § § § § S § ^ 3 ^ § 1 § * * 1 ^ § 1 1 §^ £ I £ i i I I I 3 i 3 I S I « « 0> -* » ei to « « 0« 00 io eg g o g jh cT gj jj 8?S8 esse gsssseas CO CO r-T. r-T N «T <* t-" CO tff CO~ CO* C* jH «f » £ © © © ^ CO » ' M M Mi LM i Ml M i i i 1 i 1 ::::»: : *s : : : : M ! i f ti l U ; • .}-.] i i.| ! :::::: § i • .: ; j | i j : : i.i M t\ ■ \:\ ; i : : : I 8 : : : : : i Mi M : g : : j : il l h i U Ml M i M M i Ml M n iii ] Ill-Ill U Mill M 1 M M MM M Mill; i 1 1 1 1 1 N ! it : i ! ; i ^^^ = ooooo = «|o = o = o ||ISIl|llIg| I I I §£§§lg!||ff §§ 1 I 1 s . i 1 1 i 1 ! ! 8 ! j I 390 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. ® d <1 n t> lO «o t> »rt CO O)t-O00 00»(»fl5 O t» t» l> t» t- I- ft t- -* o -hh t- O CO 00 CO af cf cf co COOCM^OCOCOt- rHCMCMC^CMCMCMCO CO~ O0 CT OO" C3 I>T r-T CO O) CO Ol t« O l> CM ^ « n a t-T th of cm~ r-T rH CO © CM CM CO CM CO CO CO 'H* OOOO COifSCOO OOO O^CMCOO rH O CO CM" tJH CM* O IO coosr- 1 a a h cc cs co io io © o ^ w CO rH CO (M O CO © ■<* t- rH (35 ip C> COOCOOJCOtOr-100 rHtOCMCMCOCOOJCO O^CMCJOlOtO^ of co" oo~ iff co of co co~ r-tCOlOOOCOHH(M CO t)( O CD CO CO □ M -r- d o « S ft g 4S-M'-ioo^o-tfrH4Socoooo d d cc r d'^ d r "© 5 as d r ^ r d p d rr J r d r w r- co as o *h cm co c- t- r- co co co oo QO CO CO CO CO CO CO o I WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 391 COMPARATIVE STATEMENT OF THE IMPORTS OF CERTAIN MANUFAC- TURES OF WOOLS. Flannels, Blankets, Hats of Wool, Knit Goods, Balmorals, Woolen and Worsted Yarns, and all Manufactures of every description, composed wholly or in part of w r orsted, the hair of the alpaca, goat, or other like Animals (except such as are composed in part of Wool, N. O. P. F.). Valued at not exceeding 40 cents per pound. Valued at above 40 cents per pound, and not exceeding 60 cents per pound. Years. Quantity. Values. Duty. Aver- age ad rem rate. Values. Duty. Aver- age ad rem rate. Pounds. Dollars. Dollars. P. ct. Pounds. Dollars. Dollars P. ct. 1867 24, 188 -75 10, 342 77 8, 458. 12 81 *74 11, 579 6, 644. 27 5, 799. 20 87 -28 1868 47, 974 22, 214 34 17, 378. 47 78 '22 64, 904 -25 35, 720. 15 31, 962. 84 89 -39 1869.... 19, 289 •50 7, 745 39 6, 568. 79 84-81 73, 364 37, 836. 90 35, 252. 07 93 -17 1870.... 8,626 •03 2, 953 29 2, 758. 97 93 -43 58, 516 -50 29, 447. 25 27, 801. 49 94-62 1871 22, 463 •50 8, 167. 01 7, 351. 16 90-01 48, 531 -75 24,112. 40 22, 998. 87 95-39 1872 9,010 2, 753 10 2, 765. 58 100 -46 41, 498 -75 21, 567. 80 19, 998. 36 92-72 1873 4,150 •50 2, 192 94 1, 439. 39 65 -64 22, 088 12, 086. 00 9, 873. 62 81-69 1874.... 1,400 •50 486. 57 405. 46 83 -25 26, 573 -50 15, 009. 58 11, 904. 16 79 -31 1875 797 •75 328. 90 249. 46 75 -82 44, 525 -50 24, 874. 16 20, 612. 09 82 -87 1 Q7R lO/O. . . . 2, 691 •25 932 •61 864. 66 92 -71 48, 737 26, 874. 17 24, 020. 96 89 -38 1877.... 5,702 1,840 93 1, 784. 72 96 -94 52, 867 -38 28, 897. 75 25, 974. 42 89 -88 1878.... 1, 257 •25 474. 70 417. 59 87-91 74, 143 -50 40, 136. 50 36, 290. 83 90 -42 1879.... 1, 292 •50 439. 67 412. 37 84 -63 67, 520 -75 36, 434. 43 33, 008. 30 90 -60 1880.... 28, 553 •88 10, 513. 68 9, 390. 53 89 -31 92, 880 -75 48,751. 74 44, 927. 33 92 15 1881.... 54, 427 22, 094. 27 18, 618. 40 84 -26 48, 517 '66 25, 212. 20 23, 379. 58 92 -73 1882.... 170, 344 60, 863. 95 55, 371. 19 90 -98 93, 832 50, 518. 24 45, 830. 84 90 -72 1883.... 45, 288 33 16, 089. 78 14, 689. 10 91-29 127, 602 -50 68, 754. 95 62, 344. 99 90 -67 Valued at above 60 cents x»er pound, and not exceeding 80 cents per pound. Valued at above 80 cents per pound. i ears. Quantity. Values. Duty. Aver- age ad valo- rem rate. Quantity. Values. Duty. Aver- age ad valo- rem rate. Pounds. Dollars. Dollars. P. ct. Pounds. Dollars. Dollars. P. ct. 1867 14, 045 50 18, 763. 38 12, 185. 38 64. 94 349, 573 -25 472, 895. 59 340, 300. 08 71 -96 1868 136, 039 25 101,834. 64 90, 057. 81 88 -44 1, 048, 941 1, 674, 612. 94 1, 110. 585. 03 66 -32 1869.... 43, 258 •75 30, 453. 45 27, 962. 21 91-82 2, 464, 616 -50 3, 277, 202. 54 2. 379, 329. 15 72 -60 1870.... 30, 069 •75 21, 122. 00 19, 418. 60 91 -94 2, 611, 662 3, 409, 742. 44 2, 499, 240. 94 73 -30 1871.... 282, 825 215,616. 20 188, 595. 67 87 -47 2, 885, 317 -53 3, 580, 922 83 2, 695, 981. 86 75 -29 1872.... 175, 165 75 134, 814. 68 117, 251. 44 86-97 1, 907, 365 -62 2, 797, 658. 25 1,932, 863. 29 69 08 1873.... 28, 640 50 21, 120. 45 17, 046. 50 80 -71 1, 595, 114. 12 2, 647, 500. 09 1, 553, 577. 58 53 -68 1874.... 29, 325 •75 20, 836. 50 17,120. 89 82-17 1, 541, 884 -84 2, 491, 632. 90 1, 478, 712. 98 59 -35 1875.... 75, 835 25 57, 263. 06 47, 428. 13 82 -83 1, 991, 353 -18 2, 904, 185. 43 1,842, 910. 09 63 -46 1876.... 145, 721 •25 112, 640. 90 97, 630. 05 86-67 1, 959, 356 -42 2, 786, 966. 41 1, 983, 892. 75 71-18 1877.... 141, 943 106, 367. 40 94, 005. 79 88 -38 1,615,406-64 2, 376, 424. 97 1, 639, 452. 16 68 -99 1878.... 129, 580 97, 762 32 86, 048. 80 88 -01 1, 274, 693 -25 1, 961, 900. 27 1, 324, 011. 84 67 -49 1879.... 137, 471 25 104,319 00 91, 500. 15 87 -71 1, 128, 444 -18 1, 626, 821. 38 1, 133, 609. 63 69 -68 1880.... 217, 613 160, 537. 02 143, 233. 16 89 -22 1, 352, 231 -91 1, 917, 978. 07 1, 347, 456. 16 70 -25 1881.... 164, 858 25 123, 069 •45 109, 017. 63 88-58 1, 903, 260 2, 974, 602. 12 1, 992, 741. 01 66 -99 1882.... 168, 228 •88 124, 434 54 110, 843. 66 89-08 1, 232, 194 -99 1, 927, 871. 50 1, 290, 852. 61 66 -96 1883.... 473, 138 •50 345, 509 39 310, 183. 68 89-77 1, 298, 409 -75 2, 057, 456. 82 1, 369, 314. 76 66 -55 392 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. o g S w < w g 5 p Q o H p 50 O B5 O Q W tf w H « P H Q P 55 a Q 55 < O o Q H O S 2 'S • m CO tH CD j2 2 * © S-i © ■9 S -2 * J § "2 *» I S | © d eg » '£ rH c8 ^ rd d © I— I rd 8 J si 00 ^ c8 © © « d tt © 1 a 5 1 - r r-H w ^2 © •3 £ d 5 © P< O - © O 00 d CO §5 d co c3 . © O © «+H -US 4J 03 © © Is © © t> 5 'So c3 ■+=> rH & oo d tH o , u a 3 »« © « * d ?.* II is H © H 03 2 © & rd +=> rd © d £h © a © t * © 4_> •g © «i -Cl 00 E © ^ co rH 03 d ° 'rH rd CD H d ^ © , rO O © g r— a r-t »o -^i -<* ->* -d ODOO^OO rH «0 CO CM O CO rH CM - OJ O rH rH ^ CD" r-T CO i co co CD rH CM OS lO os t- t- rH CO CM OSCOCMCMCOCMO«J rH rH CM CM i — I CM CM >» ^ o o © o o p ^3 *d n5 ■HHifSCOt-OOOSOrH^iO COOOOOOOOOCC05C7SOOOO oooooooocoooooooooco rd r* * 5 to 'd •H CP « a a a a r2 r5 a » H . H bC O © J g q cS ft 5 «_ ^ ,q X a 2 ° -s ® - r2 fl ^ r> 1 ^ • C3 1 W d j§ C5 3 Pi O H i q - s 1 § N « r3 £ 2 o £ 2 -god .2 £ « I- =3 00 i =3 ■ 1867 18 70 1875 2880 1881 1882 1883 1864 1885 1886 1887 1888 1889 1890 1891 1892 1893 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 393 s???? ?????? SSSSSSSS ?s goooo ggoggggo ooggoo gggggggg g g iau t -titan wua suai'a a 4 «f a - - 8 s i g s i i I $ ?* « «* a s a" s s tf $ | s s s I J 1 1 I 1 i »°o = o | = = o = ooo |=.o = = o | = oooooo I Hill Ilium iiflll llisilll !l 1 a i Si jl it 5 1 H I I ii 394 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. ^ 4^ C3 • 0 -tJ (MOO S OS O CM O H O OO H CM CM (M OO trs os o CO r-l co~ r-T O O o t'-r-1 t-"#r-lrHT} CO o m t> CM t-H O iO CO CO C- CO CM W rH 00 OOOCOOSOOOOOO rj" ec t" h ci d O CM irj CO CM OS t"~ t>- lO CO lO CO H CD i> co ifi i> O rH «D CO tH ^ § £ g s O O O CO ^ ■<* H CD 05 lO CJS io" co co os O CO CC OS t- tH CO l£0 r-i -rH t- O o" oT co' O OS tH CO tJ< CO I> OS CO CO O ^ c -rH CO ?— t OS OS 43 o 6 o CO t- CO ® co co co co CO CO CO CO OSOrHCMCOrHCMCOrHCMCO lO CO CO OS OOCSOSOSOSOSOSOSOSOOS COCOCOCOCOCO cococococccocococococo cococccoooco pp M H p p CD "Si t3 •5 £ 0. a WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 395 lO l> O) co m in co cm co ^ ^ CO rH tH CO m « m o a O O " r-T *""t 0> CO CO rj i—i oo o d" cm" ^ co" i CO CM CO CO O in t> t> i— I rH lO CO co co m CO CO kO CO ^ CM CO lO CM O t- lO OO CM CO t~- CO i> o" o" co" co" oo" co" co" cMcocom»n»OHHt~ ■*C01(05iO(OtOCQ O CO CD _ OO CO CM •># CM CM lO CM CM CO (M r-i o n o a m N co CO t> CO co" in i-H in" m cm co in oo o t~ m ^ to" t> co" inooocot»Oico t*o rHO-^OCOO-^CO OO CM CM rH rH O* rH CO* rH O* COOOOCOOCOOCO CO M t-^OCOMHl>H OO co" co" co" co m" r-" r-T t-' l> o" fOCOHON'ttO CM o>c-ocMcomincc o th rH CM" rH rH rH ^ »H O O O O O © O O O O O -Tj CO t- ^ CO t— CM OS Tt- ^ OO CM CO O m o m o t> c- r» m OO CO r-i O t> O" r-T OO CM _ co m co ->* o o o o oj in in in OCMOOrHOO^rH-cH rHr-Hincococomco eomco^iMcoincM o" t> in" . oo" t* t* H lO m cm OS CO CO CM CO CM lO © iO 00 CM 09 »~ 1 t~" CO i« O0 M (N ^ t- .TCI CM 3 co cm m" © t£5 iO -*ft (V O CO rH O rH OS CO CM l> 4s o OS O rH CO OS OS CO CO 00 CO t~- CO OS rH co co co co os co co co oo co rH lO CO O r-J « H EH P P p CO .2 "3 43 . CD O I I r2 CM c3 CO t> to ^ O ^ « 9 I £ S * % § (C Cj ft P t> o c_> m .2 6- r£ S «2 .§ o © rS © WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 397 O O 00 IO 10 co o 10 CM CO CO O I- CO >o i"— co ( o 10 CO 00 CO OS lO OO ^ -rj* H^ "H^ Tf co >o co o -h oo t- co co rH 00 ^ oo" oo" oo" -r oo oo CM CO O) to oo O O — rH 00 b- co ^ CO iM 00 CO CO* r-J rH CO t- O T-1 ^ C0 lO CO CM O O O CM CM rH rH ^ . CO 00 CO — I 00 O Oi r- O -H OS -ti lO OS OS rH t— i QO rH H< o «^ of crT is o o> l 1 * to ^ Si" ^ 23 oo" r-T t>» © o co to CO GO b- lO CO co -hjT cT io~ co' CO Ci OS co oo co CM CO rH . . CM CO rH © OS OS © © CO CO CO GO CC rH CM CO rH CM O) a O) CO CO oo CC 00 00 CC CO oo 00 § B ft a _r ~ ^ 5 r? — oft 3 s cS o a o H 398 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OP WOOL. 'r* > <£> CD -2 as o o o O UO T* rH co © oo os o 9

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S?????????? ? ? ? & S3 £ £ £ SSSS^^^S | § | »-} rH i - ^ r-H r-H rH r-5 i— 5 rH r-5 rH ss s s s 3 .n o w CO L— C- t~- <— OS 3 O CD Ch CO 3 C- r- i 3 o 00 00 GO CO lO m OS-^COCOOSi-IQOOCOt-I m >o> m >o o o o os OS(MinCOOOCOOSCMl^O — I i> © OJ in « oo W h S5 CM OS CO CO CO CO L— O N N W ffl CO tO CO CD t"*» t~- rH CO CO OS rH rH O rH co m co rHlfiOCOCMCOUOCO rHCOCOrHO-^O^ «<# rH lO CM O rH o o o o o o o o O o o o o 3 CO CO O F» CO 3 3 o 3 o 3 © 3 O t> o © o o O 3 o o 3 O O 3 3 o r2 r- o c5 cd OS CO CO id ifi 00 l> CO CO o* o 3 CO t> ci CI rH ** CO id 3 CO Os' oo >o id 00 >d CO cd CI b- o* 3 M OS 3 1- 00 CO id 00 CS 6M oi lO co fr- ee o Cb CO t - Ol t> CO GO CI 00 CO OS 1 - 3 rH CO no co e ci © HO 3 OO r rH rH rH rH 05 CO CI O Ol *t CO coh c~ co i— t> oo co o lO CO 00 Oi rH t- O OO t~ rH r- o O O rH OHO lO CO CO CO CM o H CO ^ IN g 05 rH rH CO O tO rHCOOOCOCMOHi'O CO O I- Ci CM CO CO co O O O CO o lo'ooico'cooOrHco COOOCOiOOHiCMCC © O D- O lO so ;i d o> Hi CO CM H H L- CO 05 CO b- CO CO CM rH rH CM O CM Iff Ifl" CO © CO »0 <* H 1(5 O CO CO b- CO O CO CO Oi CO CM O co h 43 OOiCMiOcOCMCMrw © rH CM CO CO r— 1 CM rH COtOCOb-CO©tO00©b- CO lOOiOOOCMHiOH © tO CO o o ip i> to »p to ooto©osb-ciH o o 42 o o © o 'd Tj 5 'w 'C 'O ^ rH rrj q r-J rH CM CO -*t0C0b-00C5OrH ooooooooooco©© coooooooocoocooo rH CM CO OO CO 00 H< lO CO b- 00 05 00 00 CO 00 CO CO — CO00 0O 00 0OCOO0O0COO0, 03 CO CO 2 S "S rS CD H, Mis. 94 27 418 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Average ad va- lorem rate of duty. Per cent. 73-66 73 02 71 23 71 -08 68 -86 69 09 92-62 93 -54 96 54 67 -53 70 -81 72 "21 70 '02 69-78 70 -02 68-65 73 -53 93-62 96-65 118 -84 117-19 105 09 Value per unit of quan- tity. Dollars. 1.07 1.06 1. 12 1.13 1.21 1.20 1. 03 1. 01 .95 1. 14 .86 .95 . 84 .73 .81 .91 .96 .99 .92 .84 . .87 1.10 09 CD P Dollars ■ 28, 746. 29 59. 673. 03 180, 975. 50 417, 435. 21 526, 929. 68 a 138, 925. 67 b 72, 807. 21 79, 759. 67 72, 764. 29 206, 532. 24 47. 531. 43 34, 589. 30 129, 674. 20 460, 177. 94 795, 869. 97 854, 812. 68 295, 292. 99 80, 804. 23 74, 142. 60 b 204, 278. 36 251, 105. 13 161, 475. 15 Values. Dollars. 39. 560. 31 81, 722. 45 254, 067. 83 587, 301. 13 765, 205. 77 a 201,082. 75 b 78, 609. 64 85, 271. 55 75, 372. 83 305, 825. 25 67, 123. 11 47, 902. 61 185, 203. 50 659, 440. 64 1, 136, 659. 47 1,245,261.57 401, 606. 70 86, 310. 05 76, 715. 50 b 171, 889. 55 214, 267. 03 153, 655. 50 3 -t m o a © © »o © co H (M o i> Oi tO © rH I CM lO t— CO © lO CO CO H* t> O <3S O O o in io oi co o co o in CO rH CO r-i OS 00 rH OS CO CO Ti O CO O CO lO O CM rH~ in" oo~ ©~ of in" co~ os os co co io t> o m o ■* in m co o m n oo CM M CO CM t- cm in os r>- oo o co m os co o m os co o co ih o co oo o Tti CO o o ^ <^ CO rH t> co cm m o co OS CM OS CO ~) OS C- o o o m o o m co co t- co m •ft ^ r-! O CM O O O CM O CO O O O CO co io o ^ o i> co d OO N •># (M c- cm in th CO CS T(i jH O rH OS CO t— CO CO CM OS © CO C~" rH os m -<* co O rH rH CM rH rH HI f~ rH os © CM — ■* JO if) H lO CD -H CO rH CM CM rH m co co co HI CM O rH 8 rH o rH m > *d ft © S3 _r c3 £ *s g .S o £ © CD a 3 - a 2 rH* r 4 O ft £ ©-£ © e3 ftp S'3 O) (O O OO CO CM O CO • t> (O t» tO (O (O t>tOtOT* t~t-C~tOCOCOt^tOOtOOSOTj« rH TP r-t o o o o o o o o o o o o o o CO CO I- CM O* CO* to O CO to CO CO CO CM CM 8 © © o © © fl ^ d 4S©©©o©o4S©©©©© r C^ r © r © rr 3 r © m r w r © r © ^^CJ r O 1ft CO t- 0O OS O rH oo co co co oo os os 00 CO CO CO CO CO CO -rjl tO C- CO OS O -H CO CO 00 00 00 OS OS CO 00 CO CO CO CO CO it if) tO ^ CO Ol oo oo co co co co co co co co co oo pa M H A s © 1 a F © Ph a © O s <«■ .5 © -2 >• 3 ° © _Q * .2 ^ S 6 ► 13-3 jtl si WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 421 id to N S) H M ^ CO Oi iO rt< © O © O t~ t- N N I r1-*l©CO©©©©©t> co i> t> lO N a «D N H Tfi o a oc H N 00 © t» 00 t- © 00 r-i CM rH CM r-l ©©©t-OOrHOOt-COrH TjlTl'TCt-tOOCO^CON iO © © © CM © O © fc- iO © © © cm a t- ■HH CO rH t- © ICO O © © "* rH OC lO CO rH » H r5 h to CM lO 00 Ifl CO Ifl lO « O It) h CO t»K5Hftt»r(t»Ot)lOfl3 l-^ t- ^ t> CO rH © 00 rH CO"* cm cm © r-i © OOrHt^COOOrHlOCN©© N io O O iO © CM © I- CO CO ■* CO CM © h o: h o* _COrH^CMCMCO©CO CM©coas©©T*eocM C0C0C0O©C0t^00r-i CM*" CM ©" -rf ©' |> t>T CM*~ rH rH rH rH rH CM t— rH © © © © © O © © o © © © © © rH 00 © lO rH CO IO 00 rH © CM CM j> CO ffl CO lO • ©CM©CO"*OOCOCM©-H lO 00 l> ■ OI>NN(MI>CMOtO^ © CM © lO ■ CM©©CM©rH00©©lO rH rH CO" CM" ©" ©" ©~ 00 rH rH CM rH CM rH " rH © © CO -* © CM CO CM -* CM r= 3 © CM © oo©o©o©.£©ao rH CM CO rH CM CO ©©©©©© O0 CO OO CO 00 00 ■*LltDt>OOCSOHNCO 0C CO CO " ^WtOl-COffiOHHN 00CO00 00 O0QO©©©© OOOOOOOOOOOOCOOOOOOO »d 2; o C h f3 B H ^ go© a © 422 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. p > © o n h g> oo Tf lO O) O 00 00 M 00 to (O © *kOOi© •*cocoMm OS O CO i-i pH to n oo n oi o -cooooooo H W 00 t» O © (N M oommmooooooo O0-^0t»05t-00000 QC C-i ^ Ci © N 00 Tt h -ji h HrtCObt-C^OM O Q0 CO ^ OCJiOC-iCrHCOO ^ o in h to oi h to COOOOOO^iCuO ©COC^tDC5CMt>r-> N oi o" CO q" l» tH rH f-l r-H rH CO i-l COt>rHO>LOl>-"^tO© ^ o~ to" |>T CO CO CI CM CM i-l cc ro 0 © o o o © o © r£ "Z3 ^ r& r$ © © © © C © •3 '3 ^ *3 r3 -"*iOCOt^OOCJi©r-lT-lCMCO ooooooooooooaoiffioo; OOOOOOOOCOQCOOOOOOOOCO ^ io to 00 OS o w Hi M H p p •a s . © © 53 S 1 a i 3 is 08 § § a i * | (2 go© "S 3 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 423 9 ? f > ? ? 9 ? $ §; s s ? - $ ? « $ 9 ? § ?????????? ^ ^ ^ § ^ s s s n §5 ^ ,h ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ liiiirgilrliiiiigiiis 9 rt rt rt i-T ri w 8 "° § g 1 1 is IIIS r-T rH -J rH r-T rH r-i' rH rH 1 « ' e 3 i i i i i i ^ i i i i i i i * i a i CM" CM rH" r-T rH" r-T r-T rH is-iigiii§i CM CM rH" rH~ rH rH rH rH rH r-T i a 1 5 s i s s 1 1 . 1 1, 1 1 1 • • 1 1 % • s b a ???? s ? ? .* 3 r4 r-T rH rH r-T rH r-T rH rH" rH" r-T rH rn" ! I i I IMS M Ml i ; { j i : i II § : : : l i M : : : : S i i Ml UN Ml; Mill j ; i ; I I s 1 I u I 13 I i.lll! Hi II ill! Ill Hi ill HH Hi 3 1 I 1 I i i 1 i j , ! 1 I ! I 1 i 1 -4 424 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. b£) • H «M . ro >o oo © oo © {O C- O CO C l> © ^ CO oo OO CM tO CM to SO .CO V o © CO (C C) CI OO « N O (N N O iO CC O t)( U-O)intC^Ji|>00O)Ht»iOI>NNI>O) eo © oo t- CO ^ © 00 of oo' l> |> ©"*©00tO»O©©©© O) l> W lO CM (O 00 00 CM CO © -tf oiNoo^oiocooo MClHHHOOCh Tt< CO CM CM CM CM rH ^ oo to to to © CM to © cm os ed" cm" © tO © to © ^fi CO t- © CM tO O N N O O O O tO tO © © © CM © CM -tf tO rH lO CM tO t- rH ^ fq N t— tO CO CO CO © to r-l OO © CO CO © © © © rH ©" TjT i— T rH © t~ rH tO © © © P. CS 3 CO oo to CO lO T*f © © ^ © oo © CO to CM © to ifliO^MOOOiOO ©©©©C-C--*© Ol005!Ot»OOI>OilMCOQ lOCMCMtOtOlOrH-HH(MOOl>©CM rH^©©ODcO©©CMCOtOt* rH 8 « CO N N N (N tO © © CM tO © © tO © Oi of is cm' "d t3 ^3 'd h3 ^ & o © i> aooiOH>fmtONcoaoH oooocooooooo©©ocaooooooooo©© ooooooQOooooooooooooooooocoooooo -n to © oo OO CO OO 00 oo oo oo oo oo oo £ © ft ft p. 3 P P £ 9 H P H P Q 0 =*H ©•So fH ^ l P _r I © p JS 1 1 ► r2 ^ ft a O ccf # 2 p. • i ■ WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 425 61-82 62 155 -50 114 -04 138 -63 150 -30 79. 55 86. 47 88 -60 S g £ 3 £ 2 wA rl rl ' " ' * H H H ^ ^ H ' H H rt H ri N d N d H W « 335, 651.60 389, 224. 15 a 131, 952. 60 b 3.11 b 148. 25 969. 05 523. 06 a 279, 507. 91 325, 852. 13 269, 552. 98 438, 680. 88 616, 674. 19 648, 184. 32 654, 008.00 632, 409. 73 597, 660. 60 628, 042. 70 509, 161. 75 326, 821. 18 270. 076. 04 510, 887. 50 377, 295. 41 339, 073. 11 373, 317. 15 428, 915. 22 507, 771. 68 542, 043. 11 ff of 1890. 542, 919. 00 627, 792. 00 a 212, 818. 00 6 2. 00 b 120. 00 699. 00 348. 00 O 351, 373. 00 376, 820. 67 304, 222. 98 747, 858. 55 1, 057, 865. 14 1, 043,927. 15 1, 029, 998. 19 975, 563. 98 902, 228. 95 960, 470. 24 697, 587. 91 377, 519. 67 304, 570 -98 972, 792. 17 696, 597. 72 628, 960. 87 689, 002. 38 775, 267. 30 923, 515. 71 1, 012, 298. 23 1890, under tari 364, 074 -88 423, 742 -38 a 143, 665 -75 b 7 b 250 1, 790 -75 997 a 235, 957 -75 312, 367 -68 266, 912 -52 399, 057 -30 586. 759 -50 694, 034 -75 727, 886 -81 727, 946. 54 711, 909 - 57 734, 013 -01 509, 443. 13 314, 158 -43 267, 909 -52 426, 025 -63 333, 715 -54 297, 341 -95 330, 415 -94 393, 929 -10 461,352-94 469, 346 -91 After October 5, ■S € <§ 1 I | I ? I 1 J I I 1 ! 5 I I S3 1 I I I %%%%%% IIII II ill I II I II 111 II 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 II! ! ! {1! it i \ more than re than 30 i r pound ve 40 cents iii HI 1 1 t « % 13 « in Valued Valued 40 c< Valued Total Other clothing, ' apparel (( factured 1 I 426 WOOL ANt) MANUFACTURES OP WOOL. . W M T(t N CP_ fH .£5 r ■^l CO t— CO O CO co co co os os as ^ ft§ eg 41 r-5 cm cm csi C? r-i rH i-( r-l .-I —I c- ^ CO t> CM t* tjT of co o in oo ift a C in © » m oo>t»»i>itamt'Ooc! ^OiOiOCOCNC^CO-^CSCO co* co iti oi os cd co co id co' •* o .1 CO OS GO r-i op oo N 00 lO H X i» » CO rH rH CO CM 8 (C N OO N uO I- CO OS CO CM rH O O O (MOO CO O CM CM CO O O O l<0 (5 s -rH CO CO t- CO CO GO rH CO O CM _. r^-oooost-oeooeo tMOOOOCOOSCSOSOOCOCOiO os^o'cb^cdcM^of^^idco" [-^ iOC-rH-^COH^COt-OSCOO "^TfiCO^COt^lOrHrHCOCO k© O H< cs id oo rH O CO rH O M t- CM CO rH -H O CM ^ ^ ^ oo t- S co" o co h5" S co co cm o rv (M CO CO CO 5 s Qooooiot^moco rtiCOOOOSt-COCOH^ COCOOSCOiOCOOO CO CO rH rH rH OCOOOCO^O© •H rH O

.">^ o t— t— Oi CO © C- CO r-i H H ci M (O QO 91 00 m t~ cm »H H M ^ t-cMincMint^©in©m© ©t-t~-<*O©H^0>C0tHCS © t~ © IN H 00 OO O OJ o o in co co m oj o iH CM © oo od a oi oi a o m m t» a o CM O CM rH -* co o N 35 O t- © CO O tH o o o © CO o ooooooooooo ©©©©©©©©O©© CO © o o o © o o © CO © © OS © © N CO O) ri N N t> O CO CO © tH CO © tH © CM © t- © © H O W H 5 13 tH © t» H^ H H N N CO CO © CO © CM CO CO © tH CO © CM ih co © m CO tH TH © co co ^ © o co co CO CO © tH ©~ ©"" in ©" © © © 42 43 o •+- cooH^in©t-co©© 0OC5CO0CQ0COO0GO© OOCOQOCOCOCOOOCOCO h< »n © t> co © © CO CO CO CO CO CO © co co co co co co oc in © t- O pi © s b ; * I 4 1 "3 « -3 if 5 £ 55 s o -a 1£ 428 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OP WOOL. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 429 ?????? 8 3 8 8 8 8 ££££££££ SS^SSSS 5 2 S S 5 8 5 £. r* r-4 rH rH rH rH r? I § i i 1 1 iiiigtii liiiiiii r-* ^ s •§ ■§ i 111111 llllllli illlilli lillllll t t ! ii 1 1 s CD j I WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Average ad valo- rem rate of duty. II 9 % Value per unit of quan- titv Dollars. 1.22 1. 28 1. 41 1.09 1. 05 1. 12 1. 11 1. 17 1. 18 1.25 3 j rH * ' ' " l '' H H !H rJ Duties. Dollars. 1, 035, 620. 67 1,099, 682. 91 1, 358, 755. 24 1, 058, 004. 68 * 963, 530. 09 1, 834, 935. 58 936, 847. 13 a 414, 408. 76 b 791, 098. 09 374, 648. 01 112 959 17 2, 389, 367. 16 2, 711, 029. 27 4, 204, 027. 74 4, 560, 904. 96 4, 829, 327. 54 6, 831, 126. 81 2, 478,112.71 1, 797, 524. 91 389, 601. 92 448. 892. 05 1 27,478,400.05 Values. Dollars. 1, 508, 724. 00 1, 633, 812. 50 2, 098, 553. 03 1, 469, 661. 73 1, 313, 851. 26 2, 576, 565. 50 1, 308, 514. 41 a 592, 268. 00 b 906, 081. 68 439, 766. 84 171 fill M 3, 551, 302. 20 4, 065, 988. 53 6, 356, 083. 26 6, 656, 449. 43 7, 039, 341. 54 9, 893, 894. 96 3, 599, 981. 00 2, 373, 908. 81 449, 577. 92 499. 489. 83 41, 484, 871. 80 Quantities. Pounds. 1. 234, 677 -25 1,274,736 -84 1, 483, 811 -38 1, 343, 256 -80 1, 251, 398 -58 2, 298, 026 -58 1, 181, 260 -88 a 507, 147 -25 b 768, 311 -86 351, 737 -71 SQQ fi1 3 -fin 3, 480, 213 -68 4, 290, 543 80 7, 261,566 -87 8, 108, 795 -82 9, 077, 016 -46 12, 891, 182 -49 3, 615, 491 -79 2, 271, 933 -46 381, 507 -21 468. 093 -1 1 i Rates of duty. 35 cents per pound and 40 per cent. . . . i i i i 1 do 44 cents per pound and 50 per cent I : Years. 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Articles. DUTIABLE. lanufactures, composed wholly or in part of wool, worsted, the hair of the camel, goat, alpaca, or other animals— Continued. Wool— Continued. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 431 i g g. * i § £ i s a s $ sf s s s s s" 3 § I f 1 i I i I i t i 8 S5 §3" S § 3 5f 3 3 3 * 3* 3 5 g 3 3 3 tf S 4 S 8 S g" g g s s I iiiiiiiii iiiiiiiiii IMPORTS OF RAW WOOLS AT THE PORTS OF NEW YORK, BOSTON, AND PHILADELPHIA, 1882-1893, SHOWING COUNTRIES OF PRODUCTION AND IMMEDIATE SHIPMENT. [These imports comprise about 95 per cent of the total imports of wools into the United States.] H. Mis. 94 28 433 l7 I •2 2? « CO 5 CO D □ □ □ □ I* CO □ |3 1§ ^2 CI^SS 1,-CLOTHING wools. Countries of production. Year. Countries of immediate shipment. Pounds. Austria- Hungary . . - Azores, Maderia, etc Belgium Denmark . France ... Germany . 1884 1886 1891 1892 188G 1882 1884 1885 1886 1887 1888 1 1892 1883 1882 1883 1884 | 1885 1886 | 1887 \ 1888^ 1889^ I 1890 1891 1892 1893 1882 < 1883 1884 1885< 1886 1887 1888 < 1889 1890 1891 1892 1893 Belgium England Austria-Hun gary do Azores, Madeira, etc Belgium do do do do do England Belgium Denmark France do do Belgium France do England France England France Belgium England France England French Possessions in Africa. France do do do Germany England Germany do do England Germany do do England Germany do do do do 3, 200 11,763 8, 672 832 521 166, 552 42, 995 129, 493 361, 763 72, 358 15, 735 9, 095 41, 667 50 100, 739 14, 001 57, 958 250 11, 236 20, 583 862 6, 131 6, 729 176, 904 5, 590 14, 444 20, 788 9, 715 35, 803 262, 333 20, 073 57, 129 5, 380 8, 770 2,841 8,798 7,594 9, 027 28, 584 12, 850 15, 218 7,030 6, 726 1,237 7,199 32, 083 13, 629 31, 511 435 436 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Class 1. — Clothing Wools — Continued. Countries of production. Italy . Portugal. Russia, Baltic and White Seas. Russia, Black Sea Spain. Turkey in Europe . United Kingdom: England Tear. Scotland. Ireland . 1884 1886 1888 1889] 1883 1888 1889 1891 1886 1889 1890 1891 1888 1889 j 1890 | 1891 1892 j 1893 1884 1885 1886 1887 1888 | 1889 1890 1891 1 1893 1882 1883 1884 1885 .1886 1887 1888 1889 1890 1891 1892 1893 1882 1883 1884 1885 1880 1889 1890 1884 1886 Countries of immediate shipment. Italy France . . . England . Italy France... Portugal. do .. England . do .. do do Russia, Black Sea . do England do Portugal France England Portugal France England France England do do do France England do do do Turkey in Europe . do England . do .. do .. do do do .. do .. do do .. do .. do .. do.. Scotland . do.. England . Scotland. England . Scotland . England . do .. do .. Pounds. 1, 113 1, 577 176 53 77 693 132 420 5, 872 955 638 334 577 095 220 581 254 206 708 436 545 337 170 339 750 367 638 870 868 302 590 450 483, 152 897, 589 728, 679 272, 669 407, 409 60, 316 465, 382 544, 867 884, 807 266,397 193, 431 219, 308 18, 768 68, 388 2, 209 1,272 2, 693 1,409 509 41, 534 4 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Class 1. — Clothing Wools — Continued. 437 Countries of production. United Kingdom— Cont'd. Ireland Dominion of Canada : Nova Scotia, etc Mexico West Indies : British West Indies . . Danish West Indies Dutch West Indies . Cuba Argentine Republic Year. 1888 1889 1883 1884 188G 1891 1892 1882 1886 1892 1882 1883 1884 1886 1887 1888 1889 1890 1891 1892 1893 1889 1886 1890 1891 1892 1893 1893 1882] 1883] 1884 \ 1885 1886 1887 < 1888 1889 1 Countries of immediate shipment. Ireland . do . Nova Scotia . do do do do Mexico do do British West Indies. do -do . .do . .do . .do . .do . .do . .do . .do . .do . Danish West Indies . Dutch West Indies. - do do do do Mexico Argentine Republic . England Argentine Republic . England Argentine Republic . England Argentine Republic . Belgium England Argentine Republic. . Belgium Brazil France England Argentine Republic . England Belgium England France Argentine Republic . Belgium England France Pounds. 20, 099 36, 517 52 393 81 2,200 100 29 158 176 513 822 722 1,230 1,574 2, 200 686 842 1, 246 122 110 114 1, 296 158 669 803 2, 214 37 936, 106 10, 158 457, 769 83, 783 37, 693 30, 360 371, 696 45, 865 22, 208 , 641,918 327, 699 11, 370 326, 757 979, 068 58, 682 232, 007 150, 230 510, 788 30, 132 638, 954 55, 667 290, 577 231, 347 438 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Class 1.— Clothing Wools— Continued. Countries of production. Argentine Republic . Brazil . Chile . Colombia . , Ecuador .., Guianas: British Peru Uruguay . Year. 1890^ 1891 < 1892^ 1893 £ 1882 U883 1884 £ 1885 £ 1886 J 1887 1888 1889 1890 1891 1892 1893 1882 | 1883 1884 j" 1885 1886 1887 \ 18$ 1889 1890 1891 { 1892 1893 1.888 1888 1883 1884 1886 £ 1890 1893 1882 £ Countries of immediate shipment. Pounds. Argentine Republic . France England Scotland Argentine Republic . Belgium Prance England Argentine Republic . Prance Argentine Republic. . France Brazil do do Belgium Brazil Germany Brazil England Brazil do .do . .do . .do . .do .do . Chile France Chile do ... England . . do ... Chile do ... England . . Chile do ... do ... do ... England . . Chile do ... Colombia . Ecuador .. British Guiana . Peru do Colombia Peru do Uruguay England 52, 352 11, 186 95, 840 8, 977 210, 047 18, 824 45, 130 83, 456 289, 835 45, 596 129, 592 7, 348 62, 354 288, 863 341, 858 782 263, 437 8, 100 1, 056, 306 453 235, 028 324, 439 387, 930 67, 981 123, 271 639, 982 896, 245 4, 383 2, 203 117, 552 77, 949 3, 605 36, 096 170, 917 520, 059 25, 113 120, 880 43, 097 783, 575 413, 402 1,112 1. 464, 546 462,167 95 1, 328 82 1,231 300 210 2, 740 2, 250 5, 158, 685 505, 944 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Class 1. — Clothing Wools— Continued. 439 Countries of production. Year. Countries of immediate shipment. Pounds. Uruguay . Venezuela South America, other China Hongkong East Indies : British Turkey in Asia All other Asia. 1883 1884 \ I 1885 ^ 1886^ 1887 ^ 1 f 1888 1 1889 { 1800 1891 1892 1893 1 1886 1883 | 1885 •1886 1.887 1890 1885 1888 1889 1892 1893 1883 1884 1887 £ 1888 1889 | 1890 1892 1893 1887 1890 Uruguay do England Uruguay Belgium England Uruguay Argentine Republic Belgium Brazil England Uruguay England Belgium Uruguay Belgium Brazil Uruguay England Uruguay do do Belgium Germany England Uruguay Belgium France Germany Venezuela South America, other. Central American States England China England China Hongkong England British East Indies. England do do do do France England Turkey in Asia. England do do Turkey in Asia- En gland do 12. 748, 446 438, 569 74, 511 305, 462 39, 898 160, 909 222, 290 58, 288 454, 689 168 149, 879 585, 292 1, 618 1,562 175, 239 9, 022 420, 180 288, 000 6, 348 144, 239 997, 196 725, 708 9, 457 6, 677 95, 768 608, 978 28, 734 24, 372 3, 804 141, 968 251 2, 029 993 350 5, 012 10, 456 7,697 534 525 310 972 424 669 875 224 295 833 759 800 193 254 305 800 440 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Class 1. — Clothing Wools — Continued. Countries of production. All other Asia British Australasia. Hawaiian Islands. Year. British Africa . 1891 1 1882 £ 1883 £ 1884 $ 1885 I 1886 1887- 1888- 1889 1890 | 1891 1892 1893 < 1887 1892 1882 < 1883 | 1884 I 1885 j 1886 1 1887 { Countries of immediate shipment. England France British Australasia. England British Australasia. England British Australasia. England British Australasia. England Scotland British Australasia. Belgium England British Australasia . England Belgium British Australasia. Germany England Scotland British Australasia. Germany England British Australasia. England British Australasia. England Scotland British Australasia. Belgium Germany England Scotland British Australasia. England Germany Hawaiian Islands. . . British Africa Germany England British West Indies British Africa Germany England British Africa England Germany British Africa England British Africa England Scotland British Africa England Pounds. 1, 1,933 10, 693 515, 132 096, 857 087, 079 008, 908 905, 490 784, 136 032, 329 592, 482 3, 087 384, 624 946 811, 464 382, 684 920, 076 4, 182 046, 245 17, 810 343, 829 14, 274 938, 445 3, 697 386, 570 017, 039 911, 882 887, 836 642, 094 12, 207 880, 326 4, 392 91, 760 786, 161 1,440 772, 050 652, 756 5, 776 91, 725 964, 660 48, 757 849, 349 1,322 746, 260 49, 320 246, 611 725, 001 830, 768 34, 100 786, 852 187, 742 164, 768 377, 421 4, 125 552, 281 335, 807 Total. j 12, 626 ^ 4,611,989 ] 5,095,987 ^ 12, 689, 626 1 | 5,627,898 J 16, 197, 034 | 9,306,942 J 1 ■ } 15, 422, 158 J 1 18, 328, 712 1 11, 928, 921 } 26, 542, 137 • 39, 764, 079 | 37, 424, 806 5, 776 91, 725 ■ 3,864,088 2,042,191 1,589,869 974, 594 2,546,314 1,888,088 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Class 1. — Clothing Wools — Continued. 441 Countries of production. British Africa . French Africa Turkey in Africa All other Africa British Possessions, all other All other countries Year. 1888. 1889 1890 1891 1 1892 £ 1893 1886 1888 1892 1888 < 1891 < 1893 1888 1890 1893 1885 1891 1891 Countries of immediate shipment. British Africa England British Africa England . Germany British Africa France England British Africa England British Africa England British Africa England Scotland France do do Turkey in Africa- Italy Turkey in Africa. France Turkey in Africa. England do All other Africa . . England do do Pounds. Total. 659, 839 704, 229 > 1,364,068 1, 226, 090 215, 625 1 1,472,021 30, 306 J 933, 745 23, 647 I 1,070,715 113, 323 1, 561, 911 70, 089 > 1,632,000 1, 051, 572 97, 966 > > 1,149,538 2, 065, 942 52, 360 I 2,126,098 7, 796 J 507 507 16, 071 16, 071 229 229 357 780 ) > 1, 137 1, 000 16, 453 ) > 17, 453 6, 442 6,442 34, 259 34, 259 2, 937 2, 937 227 227 30, 729 30, 729 32, 078 32, 078 280, 995 280, 995 CLASS 2.-COMBING WOOLS. Austria-Hungary Belgium Denmark France , Germany . 1891 1884 1886 1891 1891 1884 1886 1887 | 1889 1890 1891 1892 | 1893 1882 1883 1884 1885 | 1887 Austria-Hungary . England Belgium do Germany France do do Germany England France do do England France England Germany do do England Germany 14, 486 14, 486 1,214 1, 214 441 441 5, 142 5, 142 381 381 60 60 296 296 13, 281 10, 818 I 24, 099 12, 176 12, 176 75 75 100, 893 100, 893 19, 633 6, 641 I 3 26, 274 638 638 4,719 4, 719 L798 1,798 2, 011 2, 011 4 61, 456 } 61, 460 2, 107 2,107 442 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Class 2. — Combing Wools — Continued. Countries of production. Germany . Italy Netherlands Portugal Russia, Baltic and White Seas. Russia, Black Sea Russia, not specified Servia Switzerland Turkey in Europe United Kingdom : England Year. 1888; 1889; 1890 1891 < 1892 1893 1888 1890 1887 1886 1887 1892 1889 1887 1890 1889 1893 1890 1882 1883 1884 1885 1886 1887 .1888 1 1889 1890 £ 1891 { 1892 \ 1893. 1882 1883 1884 | 1885 f 1886 1 1887 Countries of immediate shipment. Germany England Germany England Germany do England , Germany do Italy France Netherlands England do Russia, Baltic and White Seas . England do do do do Switzerland England do do do do Turkey in Europe . England Belgium Germany Scotland England Italy England Turkey in Europe . England do Turkey in Europe . do England do France Germany Turkey in Europe . England do do Scotland England do France Scotland England Pounds. Total. 262 25, 016 > j 25, 278 16, 718 484, 179 ) > 500, 897 110 110 10, 226 624 j 10, 850 16, 599 16, 599 23, 694 23, 694 520 520 5, 962 5, 962 20, 456 20, 456 9, 585 9, 585 2, 292 2, 292 178, 969 178, 969 1, 059 1, 059 2,932 2, 932 42, 502 42, 502 5, 159 5, 159 7,623 7, 623 3,424 3, 424 7, 639 7, 639 5, 807 5, 807 18, 782 18, 782 84, 456 84, 456 » 122,252 122, 252 162, 394 698,690 441 \ 862, 094 128 1 441 1 203, 436 17 > 203, 453 46, 168 46, 168 73, 523 31 9, 258 | 392, 781 179, 177 115, 605 I 294, 782 849, 257 345, 260 ] 1,194,517 115, 503 1 I 723, 702 1 1, 008 104 607, 087 ) 1, 939, 357 1, 939, 357 1, 959, 815 1, 959, 815 3, 474, 003 18, 654 S 3,492,657 2, 281, 572 2, 281,572 4, 318, 150 28, 334 | 4,355,406 8, 922 6, 815, 421 6, 815,421 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Class 2. — Combing Wools — Continued. 443 Countries of production. United Kingdom— Cont'd. England Scotland . Ireland . Dominion of Canada: Nova Scotia, etc . Year. 1888 1889 £ 1890 1891 1892 1893 1882 £ 1883 | 1884 1885 1886 £ 1887 £ 1888 £ 1889 £ 1890 £ 1891 £ 1892 £ 1893 £ 1882 1883 £ 1884 £ 1885 1886 1887 1888 1889 1890 1891 1892 1893 1882 1884 1885 1886 1887 1888 1889 1891 1892 1893 Countries of immediate shipment. England . do Scotland. England . do .. .....do .. ....'.do .. Scotland . England . Scotland . England . do Scotland . do .. England . Scotland . England . Scotland . England . Scotland . England . Scotland . England . Scotland . England . Scotland . England . do .. Scotland . England . Ireland . . England . ......do -. Scotland . England . do .. do do .. do .. do .. do do .. do .. Nova Scotia, etc . do do do do do do do , do , do Pounds. Total. 2, 723, 371 2, 723, 371 3, 924, 516 19, 832 | 3,944,348 4, 037, 537 4, 037, 537 3, 013, 839 3, 013, 839 1, 872, 813 1, 872, 813 2, 246, 466 2, 246, 466 38, 130 48, 044 | 86, 174 314 19, 043 | 19, 357 30, 761 30, 761 5,440 5,440 141, 895 145, 967 | 287, 862 8, 613 5, 428 ^ 14, 041 55, 395 4, 593 | 59, 988 177,327 2, 555 | 179, 882 7, 307 312 j 7, 619 6, 994 14, 931 / 21, 925 46, 686 85, 307 > 131, 993 41, 193 94, 948 | 136, 141 295, 239 295, 239 20, 327 125, 828 ? 146, 155 507, 011 4,953 > 511, 964 144, 827 144, 827 1, 457, 517 1, 457, 517 1, 551, 062 1,551,062 1, 697, 825 1, 697, 825 1 260 210 1 260 210 1 919 7QQ Jl, i w, i VO 1 212 793 446 118 446 118 1 324, 496 406 406 709 709 169 169 353 353 491 491 3,497 3,497 782 782 7,722 7, 722 62 62 355 355 444 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Class 2.— Combing Wools— Continued. Countries of production. Mexico West Indies: British Spanish— Porto Rico.. Argentine Republic Chile Columbia Peru China East India: British. Russia, Asiatic. Turkey in Asia. Year. 1889 1883 1885 1886 1887 1885 1886 £ 1891 1890 1891 1882 1887 1892 1893 £ 1884 1885 1886 1887 1889 \ 1890 1891 1 1892 1883 1884 £ 1885 1886 1887 1888 j 1889 ! 1890 1891 1892 < 1893 < 1893 1882 1883 1884 1885 1886 1887 <{ Countries of immediate shipment. Mexico . British West Indies . do do do Porto Rico Belgium France Chile Columbia France England Columbia Peru do England China England do do China England China do England China British East Indies England Germany England do do British East Indies . England China England do do British East Indies . England British India, etc. . . England do England do do do do Turkey in Asia. Turkey in Europe . . England France Belgium Pounds. 78 1,280 709 248 439 40 40 2, 056 31, 748 £ 33, 804 833 833 19 19 14 14 5, 323 5, 323 1, 635 1,635 41 41 1, 936 85, 760 | 87, 696 4, 556 4, 556 19, 315 19, 315 33 33 1,011 1,011 19, 845 6, 045 ; 25, 890 27, 102 27, 102 32, 519 7, 656 | 40, 175 72, 395 72, 395 18, 544 18, 544 16, 154 2, 380 ; 18, 534 6, 605 6, 605 45, 811 45, 811 58, 450 58, 450 1, 138 18, 186 | 19, 324 13, 532 2, 176 | 15, 708 6, 402 6, 402 37, 491 37, 491 497 21, 193 | 21, 690 1,436 8, 103 | 9, 539 20, 478 20, 478 9, 456 9, 456 90, 348 90, 348 42, 744 42, 744 166, 264 166, 264 928, 392 928, 392 4, 367 3, 908 754, 570 769, 359 87 6, 427 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Class 2. — Combing Wools — Continued. 445 Countries of production. Turkey in Asia. All other Asia. Turkey in Africa. . . Turkey, 1ST. O. S British Australasia. Tear. British Africa. 1888 I [ 1889 J i 1890 £ 1891$ 1892 1893 1886 1887 1889 1890 1891 1884 1885 1892 1891 1892 | 1893 £ 1884 1885 1886 £ 1888 1889 1891^ 1893 1884 1885 1886 1887 1888. 1889 ^ 1890 1891 1 Countries of immediate shipment. Germany England France England British Africa Turkey in Europe . . . England Turkey in Europe . . England Turkey in Europe . . Turkey in Asia France Germany Turkey in Europe . . England Turkey in Asia Turkey in Europe . . England do do China England do England do Turkey in Africa . . . England Russia, Baltic England do France England do British Australasia. England do do do British Australasia. England do do British Africa Germany England British Africa England Denmark British Africa England British Africa England British Africa England British Africa Pounds. 23 382, 926 3,827 573, 081 1,051 16, 506 949, 317 30, 659 875, 442 1, 367 70, 049 10, 467 20, 734 3, 736 627, 870 24, 925 72, 937 639, 801 7,266 17, 782 2, 329 862 2,958 5,157 J, 567 100 19, 342 840 3,992 26, 716 2, 663 240, 702 38, 312 44, 184 287, 563 316, 352 356, 167 5, 005 29, 134 3, 042 21, 290 9,338 ' 472 1,306 43, 364 75 9, 482 14, 946 1,240 361 6, 260 3,397 3, 412 10, 426 18, 837 Total. 446 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Class 2. — Combing Wools — Continued. Countries of production. British Africa All other Africa British possessions, all other Wool tops Year. 1892 J 1893] 1888 1892 1893 1887 1890 Countries of immediate shipment. British Africa . England British Africa . England do do do do do Pounds. 45, 879 201, 777 87, 884 8, 903 969 1,297 2, 288 170 308 Total. CLASS 3-CARP K/P WOOLS. Austria-Hungary . Azores Islands, etc . Belgium . 1882 ^ 1883 £ f 1884 i { 1885 5 f 1886 \ i I 1887 £ f 1888 \ I 1889 £ 1890 1891 £ 1892 f 1893 I [ 1882 1883 1884 1882 | 1883 1834 £ 1885 1886 1887 £ 1888 | 1889 £ Austria -Hungary . . . England Erance England Austria Hungary. . Erance England do Germany Austria-Hungary . . England Germany Austria-Hungary. . . England Austria-Hungary . . England Germany Austria-Hungary. . England Austria-II angary . . . do England Austria- Hungary. . do England France Germany Azores Islands, etc do do Belgium Erance Belgium do England Belgium do do France Belgium Italy Belgium England 351, 728 282, 815 15, 953 30, 224 152, 815 96, 871 377, 688 96, 740 44, 585 394, 895 129, 288 5,432 81, 745 420, 629 5,875 38, 368 3, 305 118, 375 356, 059 11, 977 584, 226 46, 289 059, 023 780, 945 604, 162 125 178, 127 3, 331 5, 483 1, 399 11, 617 15, 224 1, 694 48, 235 29, 063 29, 931 133, 592 8, 753 6, 598 60, 521 4, 062 8, 165 46, 052 J \ 474, 434 11, 977 | 630, 515 1, 059, 023 1 [ 2,563,359 I WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Class 3. — Carpet Wools-— Continued. 447 Countries of production. Belgium . Bulgaria. Denmark Franco. .Germany . Year. 1891 1889 1882 1883 £ 1884 £ 1886 1887 1888 £ 1892 1893 £ 1882 1883 | 1884 r 1885 { 1886 1887^ 1888^ 1889 { 1890 \ 1891^ 1892 < 1893 < 1882 < 1883 < Countries of immediate shipment. Belgium Austria-Hungary . Denmark do England Denmark England Denmark England do Denmark England Denmark do England France do England France do Belgium England Scotland France England Germany Scotland Italy France Belgium England Scotland France Belgium England Germany Scotland Italy France England Scotland France England Italy France England France England France England Germany England Germany England ....... r ... Pounds. 13, 100 11, 296 19, 786 50 16,164 252, 679 35, 746 26, 951 1,586 5, 380 26, 887 9, 996 3, 755 11, 285 15, 337 370, 966 908, 633 1,190 380. 900 032, 677 8, 257 21, 709 47, 487 924, 560 314, 594 4, 273 85, 385 87, 671 211, 461 69, 835 436, 419 176, 660 , 191, 414 65, 897 321. 991 16, 428 84, 881 8, 061 832, 307 707, 841 246, 029 164, 160 033, 336 1, 500 , 610, 527 351, 995 343, 764 20, 8S1 630, 575 279, 257 6, 216 30, 051 75 30, 843 448 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Class 3. — Carpet Wools — Continued. Countries of production. Germany . Gibraltar . Greece Greenland, etc. Year. 1884 ^ i I \ 1885 \ { 1886 | 1887 ^ 1888 1 1889 £ 1890 1891 1892 £ 1893 | 1892 1882 £ 1883^ 1884 | 1887 1882 1883 1884 < i 1885 1886^ 1887 1888 1889 | 1890 5 1891 £ 1892 1893 | Countries of immediate shipment Germany Belgium England Germauy England France Germany England Germany England Germany England . * France Netherlands Germany England Germany England Scotland Germany Austria-Hun gary . England Germany England Germany England Gibraltar England France Austria-Hungary . France Austria-Hungary . France Austria-Hungary . England do Denmark England Ireland England do Scotland England do do Scotland Denmark England Greenland, etc England do Denmark England Germany ......... Pounds. 82, 642 23, 476 34, 131 130, 541 121, 781 4, 577 209, 287 507, 162 92, 079 382, 957 133, 543 249, 128 10, 086 9, 122 361, 286 498, 352 500, 947 179, 524 38, 101 318, 931 57, 399 111, 007 79, 632 10, 858 946, 432 47, 090 90 4, 674 27, 015 44, 432 27,164 35, 009 22, 859 10, 070 156, 270 284, 132 12, 043 310, 054 19, 595 58, 387 504, 184 17, 312 608, 012 351, 200 134,113 2, 457 40, 662 23, 442 265, 523 86, 476 495, 106 54, 030 895, 373 1, 500 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Class 3. — Carpet Wools — Continued. 449 Countries of production. Year. Italy. Netherlands . 'Poland. . . Portugal. 1882 I I 1884 1885 1886 | 1887 £ 1888 £ 1892< 1882 5 1 892 < Countries of immediate shipment. Pounds. Total. 1887 < 1888 1889 1889 1882 1883 1884 | 1885 1886 1887 | 1888 | 1889 1890 1891 1892 1893 Koumania 1886 j 1887? 1888 | Russia, Baltic and White 3eas, 1882 1883 5 i Italy France Italy England France Italy do do England .... Italy England Italy England Italy do England France Italy England Italy England France Netherlands England do Netherlands England do do do France England do do Spain Portugal England do ... do do do do do Italy England Italy England Italy Belgium Denmark . . . England France Denmark . . H. Mis. 91—20 * | England . Ill, t 17, 2. 11. 34. 607, 838, 904. 1 494, 594, 684, 232. 400. 339, 36. 41 93. 14. 29, 6, 43, 26, 16, 157. 970, 1 , 406, 50, 266, 3, +36, , 017 ) ,195 li ,692 h , 767 \\ ,262 J 015 488 158 J 141 > 873 I ) 065 > 619 | ) 604 I J 444 j 200 h 910 j 620 j 220 > 587 * 902 ) 148 U 498 1 j 62 184 298 764 236 697 791 363 323 595 519 313 926 138 828 468 956 470 454 I 673 524 053 104 157 636 079 371 h 577 ^ ! 332 ! 661 j 627 ? 71,212 46, 721 111,015 488 18, 299 13, 938 92, 223 444 24, 730 13, 807 142, 543 45, 246 11,298 73, 764 8. 236 607. 697 838, 791 905, 686 494, 595 594, 519 685, 239 232, 966 400, 468 339, 956 36, 470 41 , 454 93, 673 43, 577 49,261 42,715 2, 584, 941 2, 403, 059 450 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Class 3.— Carpet Wools— Continued. Count iios of production. Tear. Russia, Baltic- Seas. Russia, Black Sea . Countries of immediate shipment. and While 1884 -i 1886 439, 126 ; > 702,697 I 785.198 n 102,650 : \ 150.138 |J 008, 617 ! i 112.675 | 5 585, 724 j ^ 699, 950 > 84, 358 | 5 445,280 1 71, 157 118, 516 j 925, 026 j 33, 693 I 717. 676 j 58, 726 5 495, 416 } 148, 498 3 5, 700 125 101 1,087 648 183,896 4,094 31, 672 1L, 193 249, 583 172, 267 11, 895 160, 732 250, 693 492, 958 312, 743 35, 841 826, 089 70, 860 155, 073 84, 569 44, 926 106, 855 43, 052 8, 068 8, 160 8, 917 14, 386 13, 156 13, 817 1, 445 1, 023, 082 1.308,005 1,702,697 2, 037, 986 2, 121, 292 1,921,056 784, 308 } 1,634,953 958, 719 776, 402 1, 643, 914 5, 700 125 101 1, 087 648 183, 896 4, 094 31, 672 11, 193 1, 249, 583 1, 184, 162 1, 160, 732 1, 250, 693 492, 958 348, 584 896, 949 155, 073 84, 569 44, 926 106, 855 43, 052 8,068 8, 160 8, 91 7 14, 386 13, 156 13,817 1,445 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL ( ! la ss 3 . — C a u i »et Wools— Gout i n ned. 457 Countries of production. Venezuela . Year. South America, all other. China East Tndier. British. 1889 j 1891 1892 189:: 1 883 1882 | 1MB 5 1885 1880 | 1887 ■ 1888 Countries of. immediate shipment. Pounds, j Total. 1890 1891 ; 1892 ■{ 1893 j r 1882 J I r 1883 J I 1884 1885 5 Venezuela Dutch West Indies . . Venezuela do do Eu gland China England China England China England China England China England China England France Germany Hongkong Italy China England Hongkong China British East Indies. . England Hongkong China England France China England France Hongkong China British East Indies . . England France China England British West Indies . England France British East Indies . - England Scotland England British East Indies . . England do France Scotland 3, 693 1,028 7, 364 16, 649 22, 022 12, 339 141,249 142, 600 389, 958 309, 406 691,415 504, 684 855, 608 380, 216 1,872. 889 1, 657, 492 2, 047, 067 393. 363 59, 933 500, 585 556, 018 48, 903 4. 177,910 846,125 89. 785 5, 013, 776 2, 777 1, 199, 994 50, 912 8, 273, 354 392. 731 38, 898 10. 468, 543 548, 314 10, 467 13, 315 13, 482, 291 135, 650 1. 029, 686 22, 829 20, 132, 017 1,003, 774 18, 040 3, 645, 174 6, 767 318,926 4, 105, 408 66,493 | 6, 107, 612 21,455 4,604,763 1 1 , 493, 184 69, 265 47, 125 4,721 7, 36 1 16, 649 22, 022 . 12. 339 283, 849 699, 364 1, 196, 099 ] 1,235,824 3, 530, 381 3, 605. 869 V 5,113,820 \ 6,267,459 )■ 8, 704, 983 J 1 I 1-11,040, 639 J V } 14, 670, 456 > 21, 135, 791 3, 669, 981 ► 4,490,827 6, 107, 612 | 4,626,218 . 11, 609, 574 458 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Class 3. — Carpet Wools — Continued. Countries of production. East Indies— Continued. British Year. f 1887 \ ) I f 188!) 1890 < Dutch . Not &i)ccifiod . India not specified Japan Russia, Asiatic 1892? 1893 £ 1888 1891 1889 £ 1890 £ 1891 £ 1892 1893 1S91 1888 1891 1893 1887 1889 < 1890 1891 1892 ' Countries of immediate shipment. British East Indies England France Scotland Belgium England France Scotland British East Indies Belgium England France Germany Scotland British East Indies England France Scotland British East Indies England France British East Indies England British India and East Indies England do '. do do France England France England France England do England Japan England Japan France England France Russia, Asiatic England France England France Germany Russia, Baltic and White Seas England Germany Russia, Baltic and White Seas Russia, A siatic England Russia, Baltic and White Seas Pounds. 12 75, 268 738, 506 52, 921 157, 320 28, 778 068, 119 58, 307 103, 466 296, 622 37, 874 841,535 3,095 8, 596 19, 345 139, 318 071, 764 416, 274 8, 395 54, 131 724, 698 73, 199 211, 926 613, ^58 460, 137 302, 230 16, 097 100 169, 860 3,248 245, 626 50, 097 278, 290 114, 535 063, 498 550, 207 7, 073 17, 415 3, 406 1,252 44, 439 345, 782 395, 599 110, 103 145, 465 92, 295 64,100 41, 664 12, 297 86, 278 5, 290 16, 909 87, 969 71, 933 270, 646 222, 368 F 1, 564, 947 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Class 3. — Carpet Wools — Continued. 459 Countries of production. Year. Russia, Asiatic 1893 Turkey in Asia. 1882 1883 . 1884 1885 1886 { 1887-! Countries of immediate shipment. 1888 1889-^ 1890 Russia, Asiatic England France Germany Russia, Baltic and White Seas Russia, Black Sea Turkey in Europe England ' France Turkey in Asia England France Nova Scotia Turkey in Asia England France Italy Turkey in Asia England France Italy Scotland Turkey in Asia Belgium England France Italy Turkey in Asia England France Italy Scotland Turkey in Europe Turkey in Asia Belgium England France Germany Italy Netherlands Turkey in Asia England France Germany Italy Turkey in Asia England France Germany Russia, Baltic, etc Turkey in Europe Pounds. 85, 129 549, 000 744, 914 5, 424 232, 454 832, 889 150, 475 003, 519 039, 271 575, 042 485, 860 097, 688 29, 209 112, 447 453, 561 729, 294 39, 129 500, 009 942, 722 733, 760 149, 147 3,453 791, 830 45, 852 895, 995 553, 423 28, 736 448, 312 881, 486 179, 848 10, 642 176, 634 33, 471 176, 511 64, 498 227, 416 031, 316 44, 180 88, 581 10, 100 938, 274 507, 008 203, 912 87, 744 98, 354 594, 665 088, 508 513, 440 6, 560 118, 793 152, 386 460 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Class 3* — Carpet Wools— Continued. Countries of production, j Year. Countries of immediate shipment. Turkey in Asia. Asia, all other . 1 892 1893 < 1SS2 | 1883 £ 1884 ^ 1885 f [ f 1887 ' 1888 1889 1890 1891 1892 Turkey in Asia Austria-Hungary England France .Russia, Baltic, ete Turkey in Europe Turkey in Asia England France Turkey in Europe Turkey in Asia England France Germany Turkey in Europe England France England France England France England Asia, all other England France England France Russia, Black Sea British Australasia England France Scotland England France Russia, Black Sea Turkey in Asia Arabia England France Germany Persia Russia, Baltic and White Seas.. Russia, Black Sea Turkey in Asia England France Russia, Baltic and White Seas . . Arabia England France Russia, Baltic and White Seas. Russia, Black Sea Pounds. 1,995,747 ^ 24, 386 ! j 8, 047, 920 ; J 2. 320, 917 102, 935 77, 864 3, 484, 496 5, 879, 589 3, 759, 405 752, 232 | J 8,424,811 5, 956, 136 3, 584, 418 14, 435 986, 114 2, 127, 343 184, 081 400, 415 217, 218 2, 062, 661 540, 955 841,858 419, 086 1, 226, 104 263, 939 2, 197, 414 321,750 42, 561 10, 829 933, 066 388, 804 4, 835 2, 765, 551 427, 905 49, 262 139, 012 80, 735 2, 423, 346 540, 353 1, 548 66, 056 228, 953 44, 769 583, 571 2, 733, 310 1, 033, 089 645, 947 192, 569 402, 953 1, 022, 594 491, 898 287, 755 Total. 12, 509, 769 1 I } 13, 875. 722 I ) )■ 18, 965, 914 | 2.311,424 | 617, 033 j 2,603.010 841, 858 i I 1,909,129 J | 2.501,725 J } 1.337,534 J j 3,381,730 3, 969, 331 4, 412, 346 2, 397, 769 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Class 3. — Carpet Wools— Continued. 461 Countries of production. tear. Asia, all other. Countries of immediate shipment. Pounds, j Total. Asia, all other. British Africa England British Australasia British AM French Africa . Turkey in Africa . 18931 1884 1886 1887 188!) 1890 i 893 188:: 1884 1885 1880 \ 18S7 { 1888 j I 1889 1891 1 1892 { 1893 { 1882 1883 1889 1891 1892 1882 1883 1884 1885 1886 1888 : 1889 < 189(1 1893 Germany Russia, Baltic and White Seas Russia, Black Sea England do do British Australasia England do [iritis England do do France England France British Africa England French Africa England British Africa England British Africa England British Africa England French Africa France French Africa do France England do do do do do Italy , Spain Turkey in Africa . England Italy Turkey in Africa. England France England Turkey in Africa . England Turkey in Africa. 17, 610, 301, 2 I, 109, 210, 201, 49, 21, 85, 21, 61, 13. 42, 3, 07, 91. 248, 27, 18, 3, 1, 1, 39, 406, 227, 12, 2 4, 2 358, 239, 911, 499, 588, 497, 583 ! 711 | 902 405 242 i 202 ; 687 J 365 193. 525 791 237 | 995 j 943 ! 088 | 295 j 225 ! ^ 732 > 417 L 958 j 5 322 ! ") 745 ' 960 611 949 | . 246 1 > 497 ! > 053 | > 928 | > 897 | > 228 33, 347, 1, 12, 221, 154, 59, 10, 44, 241. 446 368 324 987 507 594 236 346 200 , 596 259 779 348 528 327 71 ! 826 405 ! 662 ! 218 2, 260. 732 201 . 365 49, 193 21, 525 85,791 21,237 61.995 13. 943 42, 088 3. 295 158, 957 276, 375 31, 027 18, 611 5, 195 40, 550 634, 825 . 228 12, 689 2, 241 4, 446 2, 368 358, 324 239, 987 911, 507 499, 594 587, 236 502, 142 y 382,386 j ) )■ 233, 926 j 154. 826 I 70, or, 7 44, 218 462 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Class 3.— Carpet Wools— Continued. Countries of production. Afri«a, all other . British Possessions, all other. Russia, not specified. Turkey, not specified . Year. 1882 1887 1888 1889 1892 £ 1893 1 1882 1885 1888 1891 1889 f 1890 \ { 1891 1 1892 r 1893 { I 1889 | f 1890 \ { i 1891 ^ \ 1892 1893 £ r All other countries ' 1890 i { 1891, 1892 \ Countries of immediate shipment. Africa, all other England Africa, all other England Turkey in Africa England Russia, Baltic, etc Russia, Black Sea Africa, all other Germany England do France British Possessions, all other . . England do Russia, Baltic and White Seas- Russia, Black Sea England Russia, Baltic and White Seas England do France Russia, Baltic and White Seas Germany Turkey in Asia England Germany Turkey in Europe England Germany Netherlands England do France China England Scotland Dutch West Indies England Russia, Baltic, etc Turkey in Europe England Russia, Baltic Turkey in Asia Pounds. 325 3, 186 2, 476 3, 158 1,188 11, 195 51, 306 105, 296 118 13, 173 85, 097 113, 388 1,313 3, 372 69, 440 199, 667 241, 876 920, 750 173, 792 60, 717 108, 324 294, 328 100, 286 41, 568 151, 246 660 14, 149 9,945 69, 929 143, 945 25,875 33, 648 69, 307 105, 305 225, 472 365 232, 354 31, 292 1,362 280, 549 342, 717 57, 662 86, 168 301, 492 86, 251 Total. 325 3, 186 ) 6, 822 J 11, 195 | 156, 602 | 13, 291 85, 097 113, 388 1,313 3, 372 69, 440 1 [ 1,362,293 J | 234, 509 108, 324 1 }- 436, 182 } 151, 900 ] | 94, 023 ) j- 203, 468 69, 307 ] 330, 777 ] [ 264,011 682, 290 473,911 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 463 Recapitulation of Total Quantities and Kinds of Raw Wool Imported at the Ports of New York, Boston, and Philadelphia during each Year from 1882 to 1893. Years ending June 30 — Class 1. Clothing wools. Class 2. Combing wools. Class 3.— Carpet wools. Total. Pounds. Pounds. Pounds. Pounds. 1 882 lo, 937, 2<4 2, o48, 31o 46, 4o7, o4o 64, 753, 233 1683 . 19 Don HTl lo, oJ9, 7<0 2, 24o, J U4: r.i Kin nan oi, oiu, /yy b / , 593, 673 1884 ll , 177, rfOO 4, 391, 141 52, 502, 425 74, 071 , 272 1885 10, «^48, 033 2, 820, 074 54, oil, 122 67, 779, 229 1886 37, 143, 575 7, 626, 155 78, 353, 201 123, 122, 931 1887.-.. 15, 064, 659 10, 168, 344 83, 472, 499 108, 705, 502 1888 .. 21, 372, 468 5, 435, 127 85, 174, 498 111, 982, 093 1889.... 27, 591, 765 6, 954, 975 89, 613, 031 124, 159, 771 1890 15, 492, 107 7, 274, 173 80, 152, 484 102, 918, 764 1891.... 30, 739, 018 5, 723, 837 87, 983, 518 124, 446, 373 1892 .. 48, 735, 854 4, 948, 212 92, 769, 089 146, 453, 155 1893.... 42, 064, 844 5, 449, 984 117, 403, 712 164, 918, 540 SHEEP AND LAMBS. H. Mis. 94 30 465 SHEEP AND LAMBS. The Number of Sheep and Lambs and Goats of the various Countries of the World at the dates named. [From the Report of the U. S. Department of Agriculture, January-February, 1893: and "Thfl Wool Book," 1892. By S. N. D. North.] COUNTRIES. Year. Sheep and lambs. Goats. Year. Sheep and lambs. Goal s. North America. 1870 1875 1880 1885 1890 40, 853, 000 33, 783, 600 40, 765, 900 50, 360, 243 44, 336, 072 • 1893 i 47, 273, 553 1861 1871 1881 2, 399, 799 3, 155. 509 3, 048, 678 ■—.|| 1 = .... ..... J 1891 'I. 693. 751 1881 1881 1881 1889 1881 1881 1891 QQ(\ Q'JO 88i), ooo 221.163 377, 801 31,341 166, 496 27, 788 64, 920 Manitoba Prince Edward Island Total Canada 3, 473, 093 1884 1891 1891 1885 1888 1891 1887 40, 326 2, 000, 000 2, 775 460, 426 9, 530 14,100 18, 994 ^Mexico 30, 370 9, 270 5, 896 Total North America 53, 292, 797 45, 536 South America. Argentine Republic 1884 1883 85,619, 836 3, 000, 000 1888 1891 1891 1883 1890 1885 1891 66. 701, 097 500, 000 2, 500, 000 41, 696 369 203 62, 920 1, 969, 765 610, 147 506 337 14, 656 Paraguay 1886 1860 1884 1873 1883 32, 351 1, 989, 929 15, 921, 069 al, 128, 273 a 3, 490, 563 Uruguay 1889 22, 989, 600 23, 700 1888 a 5, 727, 500 a Including goats. 4G7 468 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. The Number of Sheep and Lambs, etc. — Continued. COUNTRIES. Tear. Sheep and la III KJ!y • Goats. Year. Sheep and lambs. Goats. South America— Continued. Curacao and dependencies, exclu- 1890 1889 1891 51, 096 312 667, 344 74, 771 1, 725 99,242,137 S 2,695,697 Europe. Austria-Hungary : Hungary a Croatia and Slavonia 1880 1880 9, 838, 133 3,841,340 666, 166 J , UUD, O i 0 1884 1890 1880 10, 594, 831 3, 186, 787 588, 638 270, 192 1, 035, 832 99, 424 Total Austria-Hungary 1 14, 370, 256 1, 405. 448 i 1880 1879 1888 1888* 365, 400 6, 872, 000 1, 225, 196 248, 755 522, 123 1,204,000 13, 405 Bosnia and Herzegovina 1881 1882 1885 1873 1877 1875 1, 548, 613 21, 634, 716 22, 616, 547 24, 999, 406 2, 921, 917 6. 677. 104 9, 331 1,497, 114 1,483,342 2, 320, 002 1, 836, 663 1, 688, 478 2, 016, 307 114, 939 136, 930 157, 658 Italy 1891 1883 (c) 21,791,909 19, 189, 715 O, 40-1, U04 1, 480, 229 2, 640, 994 O Kin. n'-n 1884 Sheep and lambs. Goats. lYear. Sheep and lambs. Goats. Asia. b 15, 087, 000 53, 757 cl890^ tt89l> 1891 29, 987, 215 87, 391 4, 544, 300 5, 067, 500 3,831,359 c 119, 892 1, 227, 000 Russia, Asiatic: d 1891 Turkey in Asia : 1891 : 1891 1891 1891 1891 1891 1891 1891 b 1, 223, 699 2, 037, 431 956, 000 1 05°. 000 61,061,816 1, 020, 000 1, 211.000 2, 097, 330 l 10, 660, 276 Other Asia: Hongkong, 1887; Cyprus, 1891, and French East 235, 960 300, 042 Total Asia 54, 414, 001 1, 046, 934 Australasia. Australia : 1880 1889 1880 QP» QQS 191 50, 106, 768 10, 360, 285 10, 882, 231 6, 463, 897 6, 432, 201 1, 231, 717 2, 366, 681 6, 935, 967 14, 470, 095 1891 61, 831,416 39, 889 South Australia (including North Terry) 1889 1881 1891 12,919, 428 e 44, 482 "West Australia 1889 1880 1889 1880 1891 7 745 541 10, 070 1891 1,962, 212 4, 367 1889 1891 20, 289, 633 i 104 74X 9'iO J-vftfc, l*±0, iOu 98, 808 Tasmania i 1880 1889 1881 1889 1887 1. 783, 611 1, 551, 429 12, 985, 085 15, 503, 263 8, 350 New Zealand 1891 1,664,118 e 1, 742 Fiji Islands 1891 1891 18. 227, 186 /6, 07? e 9, 055 e 6, 652 124, 64o, 606 116, 257 Oceanica. Tahiti and Moorea Marquesas Islands 1883 3, 000 1,300 1889 1889 1889 1886 1885 494 4, 131 205 7, 777 1, 794 4, 500 4, 808 2. 000 Total Oceanica i 12. 607 13, 102 a For 1877- 78, exclusive of the Northwest Provinces and Oudh and Eengal, with several minor prov- inces, b Including goats, c Figures for 1890. d Figures gathered from 1874 to 1883. e Latest official estimate. /Sheep owned by Europeans only. 470 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. The Number of Sheep and Lambs, etc. — Continued. COUNTRIES. Africa. Algeria a. Tunis a Egypt a Cape of Good Hope Natal Orange Free State All other Africa (figures gathered 1886-'91) Total Africa Year. 1880 1884 1875 1881 Sheep and lambs. 6, 992, 218 6, 050, 583 11, 279, 743 5, 056, 301 Goats. 3, 293, 033 3, 618, 392 673, 924 Year, Sheep and lambs. 1889 9, 475, 287 1889 761, 094 1887 6957, 599 1891 16, 706, 106 1891 959, 246 1890 6, 619, 992 109. 884 35, 589, 208 RECAPITULATION. Grand divisions: North America . . South America . . Europe Asia ,„. Australasia Oceanica Africa Grand total 53, 292, 797 45, 536 99, 242, 137 2, 695, 697 187, 144, 203 18, 941, 295 54, 414, 001 1, 646, 934 124, 645, 606 116, 257 12, 607 13, 102 35, 589, 208 12, 566, 612 554, 340, 559 36, 025, 433 a Camels in Algeria, 271,547 ; in Tunis, 86,^17 in Egypt, 55,007. 6 Including goats, e Latest official estimate. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 471 The Number of Sheep and Lambs of the various Countries of the World at the dates named. [From Report of the Department of Agriculture No. 37, January and February, 1887.] COUNTRIES. North America. United States Canada: Ontario and Quebec. Nova Scotia New Brunswick Manitoba Prince Edward Island . British Columbia The Territories Total South America. Argentine Republic . Falkland Islands . Uruguay Venezuela Austria-Hungary : Austria Hungary b Europe. Year. 18S7 Ontario 1880 Manitoba Newfoundland Jamaica Guadaloupe Guatemala 1881 2, 249, Oil 1881 377, 801 1881 221, 163 1881 6,073 1881 166, 496 1881 27, 788 1881 346 1881 3, 048, 678 1880 1,010, 949 1885 10, 337 1875 28, 766 1885 13, 390 1880 13, 690 1884 417, 577 1883 1885 1885 1884 188:} 1880 1880 1884 Belgium 1880 Denmark 1881 France 1885 Germany i 1883 Great Britain and Ireland i 1886 Great Britain j 1880 Ireland ! 1886 Isle of Man, etc ' 1886 Greece c 1877 Italy ! 1881 Netherlands 1884 Portugal 1870 Roumania 1884 Russia in Europe d j 1882 Servia 1882 Spain 1878 a Goats are included with sheep. b In the figures for 1880 Croatia and Siavonia are included with Hungary. c Thessaly, which has become a part of the Greek Kingdom since 1^77. is not included in ures. The number of live stock in this province has been estimated to include 2,000, 1,500,000 sheep, and 1,000,000 goats. d Exclusive of Poland. Sheep and lambs. 44, 759, 314 Goats. 75, 000, 000 516, 975 15, 921, 069 a 3, 490, 563 3,811,340 9, 838, 133 10, 594, 831 365, 400 1, 548, 613 22, 616, 547 19, 189, 715 28, 955, 240 25, 520, 718 3, 367, 722 06, 800 2, 921,917 8, 596, 108 752, 949 2, 977, 454 4, 654, 776 47, 508, 966 3, 620, 750 16, 939, 288 14, 709 3. 000, 000 5,650 (a) 1, 006, 675 333, 233 270, 192 248, 755 9, 331 1, 483, 342 2, 639, 994 1,836.663 2,016, 307 156, 255 936, 863 1, 374.805 725, 700 3, 813, 000 these fig- 000 oxen, 472 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. The Number of Sheep and Lambs, etc.— Continued. COUNTRIES. Year. Europe — Continued. Sweden and Norway: Sweden 1884 Norway 1875 Switzerland 1886 Turkey in Europe :a Eastern Romnelia 1883 Russia: b Caucasia Transcaucasia d . . India: e Madras Bombay and Sind .. Punjab Central Provinces . British Burin ab Mysore Berar Cevlon A via. (c) (r) 1877-78 ' 1877-78 1877-78 1877-78 1877-78 1877-78 1877-78 1884 A f rivet. Algeria . Cape of Good Hope# . Natal Mauritius h Orange Free State Australia: New South Wales . . Victoria South Australia — Western Australia . Queensland New Zealand Tasmania Fiji Islands A ustralasia. Oceania. Tahiti and Moorea 188:5 Sheep and lambs. 1,410, 177 1, 686. 306 337, 905 1, 858. 839 4, 544, 300 5.067,500 I 4.600.000 f'S, 300, 000 /3, 850, 000 /641, 000 /20, 000 j /l, 590, 000 j / 386, 000 |J 53,757 L Goats. 101, 406 322. 861 414,584 425, 569 1, 227. 000 2, 700. ( 00 1880 6, 992, 218 1884 6. 056, 683 1875 11, 279. 743 1885 535, 482 1884 /30, 000 1881 i 5, 056, 301 1885 34,551.622 J 885 10, 664, 598 1884 6, 696, 406 1885 1, 702, 719 1885 8, 994, 322 1 885 14, 624, 547 1885 1, 648. 627 1884 5,869 3, 000 (/) 3, 293, 033 3, 618, 392 (/) 673. 934 j 11,429 1, 300 a There are no returns available for Turkey proper, and none for any of her tributary states, except Eastern Roumelia. b There are no returns for Asiatic Russia, except from Caucasia and a part of Transcaucasia. c These figures are not of uniform date, but were gathered from 1874 to 1883. ared (combed, boiled, dyed, stained, or curled).. Wool, raw, washed, combed, dyed, bleached, or milled, and waste wool Artificial wool Switzerland : Horse and buffalo hair- Raw 100 kilos.. Cleaned or prepared do Animal hair, not otherwise mentioned do Wool, including the hair of the camel, goat, rabbit, etc.— Raw or washed, waste wool noils, artificial wool (shoddy) do Milled, combed, dyed, tops do — Greece : AVool and animal hair, raw, i. e., not carded, bleeched, nor spun Turkey : Wools and hair, raw Bulgaria : Wools and hair, raw. Roumania : Wool of all kinds, including combed and dyed wool Animal hair of all kinds, raw, xjrepared, or curled ... Tariff rates of duty. Beis. 10 . 25 Pesetas. 2.00 17. 00 45. 00 48.00 55. 00 Lire. Free . . . 8.00 10. 00 10. 00 15. 00 20. 00 25. 00 8. 00 Free . . Free . . 10. 00 17.00 Free . . 10. 00 Free . Free . Free . Francs. 1.00 10. 00 .60 .30 .60 Free . 8 per cent ad va- lorem. 8 \ per cent ad valor- em. Lei. b. Free 25.00 DOMINION OF CANADA. DOMINION OF CANADA. Number of Sheep. DIVISIONS. Tear. Number. Ontario and Quebec 1871 2, 522, 714 1881 2, 249, Oil 1882 1, 915, 303 1883 1, 868, 784 1884 1, 890, 733 1885 1, 755, 605 1886 1, 610, 949 1887 1,396, 161 1888 1, 349, 044 1889 1, 344, 180 1890 1, 339, 695 1891 1,693,751 i 1892 1, 850, 473 1871 234, 418 1881 221, 163 1871 398,377 1881 377,801 DIVISIONS. Manitoba- Prince Edward Island . British Columbia Northwestern Territory, etc Year. Number. 1881 6,073 1S83 4, 211 1884 6, 431 1885 10, 337 1886 16, 053 1887 12, 540 1889 31,341 1871 147, 364 1881 166, 416 1881 27, 788 1881 346 1886 19, 31 8 1888 31,4:5 1891 64, 920 Imports and Exports. YEAR. Imports of woolen manufac- tures . Exports of wool. £. Pounds. 1878 1, 773, 324 2, 445, 893 1879 1, 456, 721 3, 013, 587 1880 1, 284, 569 3, 765, 714 1881 1, 743, 009 1,482, 927 1882 1, 999, 567 1, 222, 395 1883 1, 979, 090 1, 375, 572 1884 1, 612, 832 1,539, 422 1885 1, 763, 572 989, 925 Value. YEAR. Imports of woolen manufac- tures. Exports of wool. Value. £. £. Pounds. £. 147, 360 1886 1, 815, 427 1, 524. 184 65, 124 144, 145 1887 2, 345, 865 1, 454, 768 66, 699 197. 828 1888 1, 926, 895 969, 523 46,169 89, 153 1889 2, 036, 789 1, 037, 922 45,^30 56, 408 1890 2, 169, 057 1, 105, 192 51,123 58, 444 1891 1, 963, C60 1, 131, 802 50, 940 65, 045 1892 1, 894, 085 932, 584 40, 122 40, 310 477 478 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Imports of Wool, and Manufactures of, into the Dominion of Canada during the years 1889 to 1893, inclusive. Wool, raw: Class 1, viz: Leicester, Cotswold, Lincolnshire, Southdown combing wools, or wools known as luster wools, and other like combing wools, such as are grown in Can- ada Years ending June 30— 1889 1890 1891 1892 1893 Wool, not further prepared than washed, n. e. s 1889 18C0 1891 1892 Countries. United States United Kingdom . Total United States United States United Kingdom . Total United States United Kingdom . Total United Kingdom. United States United Kingdom . Australia Austria British Africa France Other countries - . . Total . United States United Kingdom. Australia British Africa . . . France Other countries . . Total United States United Kingdom Australia British Africa — France Other countries. . . Quantities. United States United Kingdom. Australia British Africa ... France Other countries - . Total . Pounds. Dolloivs. 17 9 2, 334 598 2, 351 607 5 2 4 7 253 95 257 102 3 5 257 93 260 98 1, 018 342 4, 823, 512 698, 067 2, 768, 163 469, 630 1, 512, 963 227, 673 359, 450 51, 269 951, 480 95, 354 232, 396 59, 258 16, 202 4, 104 10, 664. 166 1, 605, 355 3, 824, 114 691, 599 3, 177, 752 678, 097 944, 733 186, 686 408, 864 57, 643 477, 217 102, 063 72, 581 12, 968 8, 905, 261 1,729, 056 3, 513, 324 505, 093 2, 503, 339 537, 909 979, 412 217,319 516, 074 59, 552 224, 118 58, 682 112, 535 20, 191 7, 848, 802 1, 398, 746 4, 904, 541 682, 365 2, 789, 267 575, 427 1, 500, 278 264, 016 594, 077 69, 131 423, 898 102, 064 12, 025 1, 699 10, 224, 086 1, 694, 702 V WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 479 Imports of Wool, and Manufactures of, into the Dominion of Canada during the Years 1889 to 1893, inclusive — Continued. AVool, raw — Continued. Wool, not further prepared than washed, n. e. s Years ending June 30— 1893 Noils, being the short wool which falls from the combs in worsted fac- tories. (Free) Pelts. (Free) . 1889 1890 1891 1892 1893 1889 1890 1891 1892 1893 Countries. United States United Kingdom Australia British Africa — France Other countries. . Total . United States . . . United States - - - United Kingdom . Total United States United Kingdom. Total United States United Kingdom. Total United States United Kingdom. France Total United States United Kingdom . Total United States United Kingdom . Total United States United Kingdom. St. Pierre Total United States United Kingdom . Total United States United Kingdom . St. Pierre Total Quantities. Pounds. 4,114, 476 3, 021, 073 1,333.519 1,509, 518 511, 845 12, 614 10, 503, 645 2,441 480 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL Imports of Wool, and Manufactures of, into the Dominion of Canada during the Years 1889 to 1893, inclusive — Continued. Wars ARTICLES. ending June Countries. Quantities. Values. 30— Wool, manufactures of: Pounds. Dollars. 1889 United States 3, 229 2, 284 Un it ed Kingdom 145, 301 46, 450 France 59 13 97 147 Total 1<*8, 686 48, 894 1890 2, 392 1, 509 United Kingdom 100, 098 52, 525 France 13 10 Total 162, 503 54, 044 1891 United States 1,436 1, 232 United Kingdom 161,540 53, 130 France 25 16 119 55 Total 163, 120 54, 433 1892 United States 3, 637 2, 107 • 120,834 39, 593 47 36 Germany 12 29 Belgiam 20 27 42 16 1^4. a9J 41, 808 1893 3, 960 1, 786 United Kingdom ......... 65. 277 21, 768 Bel °ium 414 France 07 20 Germany 76 - 29 British East Indies 192 140 Japan 1 4 Total 70, 198 24,161 Cassimeres 1889 United States 3. 532 3, 618 United Kingdom • 629, 796 478, 727 France 5, 854 5, 411 Germany 5, 222 4, 329 Belgium ] , 668 2, 099 Total 646. 072 494, 184 1890 United States 162 182 United Kingdom 69, 390 60, 091 France 268 335 209 237 Total 70, 029 60, 845 1891 United States 54 107 United Kingdom ' 81,100 70, 431' Total 81,154 70, 538 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 481 Imports of Wool, and Manufactures of, into the Dominion of, Canada during the Years 1889 TO 1893, inclusive— Continued. Wool, manufactures of— Continued. Casshneres Cloths . H. Mis. 94 31 Years ending June 30— 1892 1893 1889 1890 1891 1892 Countries. United States . . . United Kingdom France . ... Germany Total United States United Kingdom France Total United States United Kingdom Belgium France Germany China Japan Total United States United Kingdom Belgium France Germany Italy Total United States United Kingdom Belgium France Germany Netherlands Japan Total United States United Kingdom. Belgium France , Germany Total United States — United Kingdom Austria , Belgium France Germany Netherlands Switzerland China Total Quantities. Pounds. 82 90, 872 136 75 91, 165 94 115, 315 980 116, 389 10, 679 1, 314, 167 2, 372 6, 614 21, 336 2 325 1, 355, 495 17, 377 1, 899, 276 2, 585 17, 996 36, 948 915 1, 975, 097 10, 116 1, 797, 233 1,444 8, 904 23, 835 8 121 1, 841, 661 10, 778 2, 163, 347 1,067 7,518 26, 453 2, 209, 763 14, 769 2, 249, 501 85 1,800 7, 533 43, 675 302 1, 752 9 2, 319, 426 Value. Dollars. 62 64, 416 219 108 64, 805 111 74, 160 1, 183 75, 454 11,071 1, 018, 789 2, 955 6, 855 18, 903 4 333 1, 058, 910 18, 813 1, 557, 161 2, 833 15, 127 27, 670 397 1, 622, 001 15, 263 1, 459, 125 1, 966 8, 550 20, 808 4 142 1, 505, 858 12, 933 1, 677, 473 2,050 7, 441 22, 342 1, 722, 239 15, 454 1, 683, 971 >3 2, 796 7,089 32, 478 422 1, 166 10 1 . 744, 062 482 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Imports of Wool, and Manufactures of, into the Dominion of Canada during the Years 1889 TO 1893, inclusive— Continued. Quantities. Value. JrOWYldS. DoHclvs. 9 305 7 1 AO 1 9^ t\*i± 771 97^ 6, 724 4, 830 7, 134 • 5, 449 1, 278, 717 788, 716 9 914 7 37Q 1 917 (\x>9 / DO, 04i7 4, 137 3,388 5, 166 4, 923 1, 236, 869 781, 538 96 160 1 0fi7 18*3 1, 145 946 2, 558 1, 691 1, 070, 982 662, 912 107 143 1 074 287 671 647 377 442 1, 268 922 1, 076, 039 673, 154 4 172 2 566 1 9^7 118 X, AO i , XXO 7x9 Q99 645 1 014 8, 625 5, 548 1 97ft PiRrt 751 450 1, 375 _ 1, 112 131 185 4, 572 2, 291 376 384 358 420 1, 016 337 68, 785 39, 384 425 557 344 479 70, 570 40, 757 1, 119 425 34, 266 18, 956 35, 385 19, 381 46, 176 22, 356 32, 779 18, 361 34, 037 18, 135 60, 438 47, 601 266 ' 328 60, 704 47, 929 ARTICLES. Years ending June 30— Countries. "Wool, manufactures of— Continued. Coatings Doeskins Meltons . Overcoatings 1889 1890 1891 1892 1893 1889 1890 1891 1892 1893 1889 1890 1891 1892 1893 1889 United States United Kingdom . France Germany Total United States United Kingdom . France Germany Total United States United Kingdom. France Germany Total United States United Kingdom. France Germany Total United States United Kingdom. France Germany Total United Kingdom. do do do do United States United Kingdom. France Germany Total United States United Kingdom . Total United Kingdom. do do United Kingdom . France Total. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OP WOOL. 483 Imports of Wool, and Manufactures of, into the Dominion of Canada during the Years 1889 to 1893, inclusive — Continued. Wool, manufacturers of— Continued. Overcoatings— Continued Tweeds . Felt cloth of every description, n. e. s. Tears ending June 30— 1890 1891 1892 1893 1890 1891 1892 1893 1889 Countries. United Kingdom . Germany Total United Kingdom do United Kingdom. Germany Total United States United Kingdom. Austria Belgium France Germany Total United States — United Kingdom Belgium France Germany Total United States — United Kingdom Belgium Germany Total United States United Kingdom. Belgium France Germany Total United States United Kingdom. Austria Belgium France Germany Italy Total United States United Ki ngdom . France Germany Total...,., Quantities. Pounds. 31, 364 205 31, 569 16, 017 13, 643 15, 187 510 15, 697 5, 237 1, 247, 617 190 3, 220 348 3, 867 1, 260, 479 8, 723 1,415, 397 266 1,312 9, 398 1, 435, 096 2, 778 1, 145, 147 1, 560 6, 729 1, 156, 214 2, 475 930, 745 576 633 5, 080 939, 509 1, 853 1, 037, 609 28 59 1, 763 8, 803 28 1, 050, 143 5, 610 14, 861 692 54 21, 217 484 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Imports of Wool, and Manufactures of, into the Dominion of during the Years 1889 to 1893, inclusive — Continued. Canada Tears ending June 30- Countries. Quantities. Value. Pounds. DoXlCLTS. 7, 030 7, 083 16, 691 14, 093 40 45 655 485 24, 416 21, 706 3,253 4, 114 20, 775 18, 130 196 209 24, 224 22, 453 11, 437 12, 567 10, 371 10, 249 151 133 21, 959 22, 949 11, 347 12, 374 12, 537 11, 992 194 315 24, 078 24, 681 9 6 3, 345 808 Q1 A 74 72 684 328 102 32 9, 162 O, lOZ OQrt Q9Q 9A9 , 000: 41, 197 17, 228 47, 271 19, 228 11, 762 4, 049 44,135 18, 644 55, 897 22, 693 498 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Imports of Wool ; and Manufactures of, into the Dominion of Canada during the Years 1889 to 1893, inclusive — Continued. Tears ARTICLES. ending June Countries . Quantities . V tHUtJiS. 30— Wool, manufactures of — Continued. Carpets, Brussels, and tapestry — Con- tinued. Sq. yards. Dollars. Carpets, two-ply, etc.— Continued . 1891 28, 588 10, 065 45, 353 18, 934 Total 73, 941 28, 999 1892 United States 39, 100 13, 577 United Kingdom 52, 983 22, 068 Total 92, 083 35, 645 1893 73, 484 21, 071 United Kingdom 40, 960 18, 695 Total 114, 444 39, 766 Felts, pressed, of all kinds, not filled or covered by or with any Pounds. 1889 48, 020 9, 824 115, 729 39, 503 141*, U7Z 50. 217 British East Indies 3, 200 577 Total 1 ot « noi OiO, UZ1 i nn i 91 ±UU, lAL 1890 United States 50, 819 13, 708 United Kingdom 138, 646 63, 712 720 190 159, 920 67, 481 Total oOU, JLUO ±40, uy± 1891 34, 986 10, 188 United Kingdom 63, 115 26, 834 341 235 i a o ono 14Z, dvo 63, 744 z40, 835 101, 001 1892 United States 70, 178 17, 911 United Kingdom 123, 243 42, 019 13, 102 5, 820 872 439 163, 615 75, 274 Total o i 1, U1U 141, 463 1893 United States 62, 176 15, 205 133, 094 45, 373 2, 218 427 Germany 197, 056 76, 739 Total 394, 544 137, 744 Yards. Winceys of all kinds, n. e. s 1889 United States 216 25 129, 890 9, 108 120 17 Total 130, 226 9,150 1S90 198, 060 11, 346 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 499 Imports of Wool, and Manufactures of, into the Dominion of Canada during the Years 1889 to 1893, inclusive — Continued. ARTICLES. TVool, manufactures of— Continued. Winneys of all kinds, n. e. s.— Cont'd. "Woolen netting for boots, shoes, and gloves Shoddy . Years ending June 30— 1891 1892 1893 1890 1891 1892 1893 1890 1891 1892 1893 Countries. United States: — United Kingdom. Total United Kingdom. United States ... United Kingdom. Total United States — United Kingdom. Total United States United Kingdom. . Total United States United Kingdom.. Total United States United States United Kingdom Total United States United Kingdom Total United States United Kingdom . Total United States United Kingdom. Total United States United Kingdom Total United States United Kingdom. Total Quantities. Yards. 5 111, 328 111,333 72, 372 452 27, 787 28, 239 Values. Dollars. 1 7, 468 Pounds. 39, 764 11, 463 1,315 2, 674 51, 227 3,989 65, 804 40, 387 8, 907 8, 597 106, 191 17, 504 42, 311 78, 669 1, 696 15, 771 120, 980 17, 467 37, 803 110, 312 1,283 20, 428 148, 115 21, 711 16,565 38, 448 509 6, 174 55, 013 6, 683 500 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Exports of Wool from the Dominion of Canada during the Years 1889 to 1893, INCLUSIVE. Articles. Wool, and manufactures of— Sheep pelts Wool . Woolens. Years ending June 30— 1889 1890 1891 1892 1893 1889 1890 1891 1892 1893 1889 1890 1891 Countries. United States. do do do do Newfoundland . Total .... United States United Kingdom . Newfoundland Total . United States. . Newfoundland. Total .... United States.. Newfoundland. Total . United States . . Newfoundland . Total . United States . . Newfoundland . Total United States United Kingdom Newfoundland St. Pierre British West Indies . Total . United States United Kingdom France Newfoundland St. Pierre British West Indies . . Hawaiian Islands Total United States United Kingdom Prance Newfoundland St. Pierre British West Indies . . Spanish West Indies . British Guiana Total Quantities. Number. 44, 487 33, 096 39, 168 53, 690 116, 438 30 116, 468 Pounds. 1, 011, 457 2, 800 744 1, 015, 001 1, 046, 894 860 1, 047, 754 1, 107, 560 726 1, 108, 286 913, 170 3, 220 916, 390 1, 167, 360 1,474 1, 168, 834 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 501 Exports of Wool from the Dominion of Canada during the Years 1889 to 1893, inclusive — Continued. Articles. Tears ending June 30— Countries. Quantities. Value. Wool, manufactures of— 1892 1893 Number. Dollar*. 42, 922 7, 965 19, 403 128 10, 226 80, 644 1, 645 6, 358 225 23 617 606 1, 591 582 950 418 35, 992 "NTAnrfirvnTi*! 1 cmrl St. Pierre Total EUROPE. AUSTRIA-HUNGARY. IMPORTS AND EXPORTS OF RAW WOOL, 1879-189.. THOUSAND METRIC CENTNERS. \l87S | \1880 1 CO CO \1882 | \1883 | s 00 «0 QO ^0 ^1 \1886 1 CO CO N( 00 <*> CO 1*1 8& 1890 | 1891 | -J -/ \ 275 / v A • 1 / A / 250 /- 225 200 175 150 125 < / —J \ \ / \ N / t \ > / N I V- \ / \ t- / V * / / 100 1 \ \ -X 1 1 > ,-- r / \ 1 —x V \ t i- -r \ \ / / \ / J \ t / \ \ . 75 r l \ \ t -X \ f 50 Imports. Exports. AUSTRIA-HUNGARY. Although Austria-Hungary are joined in commercial transactions, yet from the standpoint of wool the two divisions must have separate interests. Huugary is a wool- exporting country; Austria, on the other hand, imports very largely, so much as to more than balance the Hun- garian exports. The number of sheep and lambs in the two countries point to this. In 1880 Austria contained 3,841,340 sheep and lambs as against 9,838,133 in Hungary. This is the only year for which I can find coin- cident returns. In 1884 the Hungarian census returns 10,594,831 sheep and lambs, but this return did not include the number of animals in Croatia and Slavonia. It is estimated that these two provinces contain about 589,000 sheep and lambs. In 1891 Austria contained 3,186,787 sheep and lambs. Apparently, therefore, the number of sheep in Hun- gary was increasing and the number in Austria decreasing. In reality Hungary also showed a falling off, as in 1870 the official census returned 15,076,997 head of sheep and lambs. This intensive feature of the Austro-Hungarian wool interests, leading to a decline in the exports and an increased import, is further shown by its commercial relations to the United States. In 1872 1,333,338 pounds of wool were exported to the United States; but in recent years it has ceased to be a factor in the American supply, and figures only as a comparatively unimportant contributor of manufactures of wool. As a consumer of wools it is of interest to determine whence Austria- Hungary obtains its supplies. From its geographical position it is natural to find the greatest share of its supply is obtained from Ger- many; and the price at which it is enabled to obtain wool in that country places other countries at a disadvantage. The carriage of wool, constituting quite an important item in the ultimate cost, is clearly indicated in the statement of wool imports into Austria-Hungary in 1892, which shows the country of shipment and the custom-house or official valuation of each kind of wool by countries. It will be seen how greatly favored Germany is, and also how large a proportion of the annual supplies are drawn from European centers. 505 506 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Imports of Wool into Austria- Hungary, 1892. [n. e. s. : Not elsewbere specified.] Quantity. Value per unit. Value. Kilograms Gulden. Gulden. 143, 800 1.92 276, 096 500 2. 00 1,000 6, 300 2. 00 12, COO 29, 500 1.05 30, 975 300 9 Art 600 28, 300 1.05 29, 715 8, 900 2. 00 17, 800 700 2. 00 1, 400 82, 500 2. 00 165, 000 94, 500 2.00 189, 000 4, 096, 500 1. 9725 8, 079, 606 50, 700 3. 73 189, 111 12, 700 1.98 25, 146 1, 200 3. 30 3, 960 * 1,100 2. 56 2, 816 05, 700 3. 365 221, 033 i 291 Qon J., ^-^j OUU 1. 20 1 46° 160 4, 700 1. 20 5, 640 127, 200 1. 40 178, 080 22, 300 1.20 26, 760 14, 000 1.20 16, 800 293, 600 1. 30 381, 680 7, 300 1.20 8, 760 1 693 400 1. 2325 2, 086, 880 2, 105, 600 2. 20 4, 632, 320 77, 100 1.70 131, 070 243, 400 1.95 474, 630 489, 500 2. 20 1, 076, 900 5, 900 1. 95 11, 505 35, 400 2. 20 77, 880 2, 956 900 2. 166 6, 404, 305 2, 094, 100 .58 1,214,578 108, 600 .58 62, 988 12, 800 . 70 8, 960 1,900 .58 1, 102 100 .58 58 86, 900 .58 50, 402 3, 900 .58 2, 262 300 .35 105 2, 303, COO 581 1, 340, 455 Sheep's wool, un- washed, also wool waste: Free port of Trieste Germany Free port of Hamburg; Free port of Bremen United Kingdom . France Italy Russia Netherlands Belgium Switzerland Portugal Greece Turkey Bulgaria Roumania Servia Montenegro British India Egypt Algiers Capeland United States Brazil Argentine Re- public America, n. e. s... Australasia, Brit- ish Australasia Quantity. Kilograms 1,500 6, 892, 800 14, 900 21, 800 2, 218, 300 83, 700 135, 000 786, 600 95, 500 911, 000 143, 800 9, 300 110, 500 558, 700 33,800 795, 500 12. 300 25, 400 59, 600 8, 800 4, 800 32, 200 45, 300 538, 400 562, 300 214, 900 1, 488, 200 1, 056, 900 Value per unit. Total Sheep's wool, washed and scoured : Free port of Trieste Germany Free port of Ham burg Free port of Bre- men United Kingdom . France Italy Russia Netherlands Belgium Gulden. 1.05 1.05 .96 1.23 1.35 1. 17 .62 1.05 1.05 1.35 1.05 1.05 .73 1.05 .73 0. 00 1.05 1.05 1.05 1.05 1.05 1.05 1.05 1.05 1. 05 1.05 1. 05 Value. Gulden. 1,575 7, 237, 440 14, 304 20, 928 2, 728, 509 112, 995 157, 950 487, 692 100, 275 956, 550 194, 130 9, 765 116, 025 407, 851 35, 490 580, 715 12, 300 26, 670 62, 055 9, 240 5, 040 33, 810 47, 565 565, 320 590, 415 225, 645 1, 562, 610 1, 109, 745 16,861,300 j 1.032517,412,609 300 1, 397, 900 5, 300 5, 100 93, 700 148, 000 29, 500 584, 800 193, 100 1, 243, 500 2.00 2. 00 2. 00 2. 00 2.00 1.92 1.80 1.95 2.00 2. 00 600 2, 795, 800 10, 600 10, 200 187, 400 284, 160 5'5, 100 1, 140, 300 38G, 200 2, 487, 000 Sheep's wool, washed and scoured— Con'd. Switzerland Spain Greece Turkey Bulgaria Roumania Montenegro Argentine Repub lie America, n. e. s... Australasia, n.e.s, Total . Sheep's wool, dyed or bleached : Germany United Kingdom Belgium Switzerland Total Wool, combed or carded in flocks Germany Hamburg United Kingdom France Italy Belgium Switzerland Total Wool waste : Germany United Kingdom France Belgium Switzerland Australia Total Shoddy: Germany United Kingdom France Italy Netherlands Belgium Switzerland Total . WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Imports of Wool into Au stria- Hungary, 1892— Continued. 507 Alpaca, cashmere, vicuna, camels', goats', and an- gora hair : Germany United Kingdom. Russia Turkey America Australia Total Quantity. Kilograms 3, 800 61, 700 10, 100 900 14, 400 7, 800 98, 700 Value per unit. Gulden 1. 10 Value. Gulden. 4, 180 67, 870 11,110 990 15, 840 8, 540 108, 570 Hair of hare, rabbit, beaver, mon- key, muskrat, and nutria. Germany United Kingdom. France Italy jium Total Quantity, Value per unit. Kilograms Gulden 29,800 1 4, 000 4,500 1, 000 14, 900 1, 300 55, 500 8. 50 Value. Gulden. 253, 300 34, 000 38, 250 8, 500 126, 650 11, 050 471, 750 Exports of Wool from Austria-Hungary, 1892. Sheep's wool, un- washed; also in waste . Free port of Tri- este Germany Free port of Ham- burg Free port of Bre- men United Kingdom . France Italy Russia Sweden Netherlands Belgium Switzerland Turkey Rou mania Servia Reimported Total Sheep's wool, washed or scoured : Free port of Tri- este Germany Free port of Ham- burg Free port of Bre- men United Kingdom . France Italy Russia Netherlands Belgium......... 39, 500 1.42 56, 090 2, 663, 000 1.44 3, 834, 720 207, 300 1.44 298, 512 17, 000 1.44 24, 480 9, 300 1.37 12, 741 150, 700 1.71 257, 697 137, 000 1. 44 197, 280 7, 300 1.44 10, 512 100 1.42 142 16, 500 1.42 23, 430 77, 200 1.42 109, 624 27, 300 1. 62 44, 226 3,800 1.13 4, 294 5, 200 1. 13 5, 876 33, 000 1.13 37, 290 200 1. 42 284 3, 394, 400 1.449 4, 917, 198 13, 200 1. 86 24, 552 667, 300 1.86 1, 241, 178 319, 300 1.86 593. 898 12, 500 1.86 23, 250 6, 100 1.66 10, 126 5, 600 2. 30 12, 880 592, 700 1.86 1, 102, 422 43, 700 1.86 81, 282 9, 500 1. 86 17, 670 14, 200 1.86 26, 412 Sheep's wool, washed or scoured — Con- tinued. Switzerland Bulgaria Roumania Servia United States of America Total Sheep's wool, dyed or bleached : Germany Free port of Ham- burg Free port of Bre- men United Kingdom . France Italy Russia Netherlands Spain Greece Turkey , Bulgaria Roumania Servia Total Wool combed or carded in flocks Germany Belgium Servia Total 27, 500 600 7,100 35, 800 14, 900 1,770, 000 26, 900 1,200 5,500 200 100 200 600 900 200 100 100 200 9, 700 1, 800 2. 23 1.86 1.42 1. 42 1. 86 61, 325 1,116 10, 082 50, 836 27, 714 1.856 I 3,284,743 47, 700 2. 90 138, 330 137,100 150, 125 7, 900 8, 651 400 438 145, 400 1.095 159, 214 78, 010 3,480 15, 950 580 290 580 1,740 2, 610 580 290 290 580 28, 130 5, 220 508 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Exports of Wool from Austria-Hungary, 1892— Continued. Wool waste (Kammzug) : Germany Russia Switzerland Total Shoddy: Germany Free port of Ham- burg United Kingdom. Trance Russia •Netherlands Belgium Roumania Total Alpaca, cashmere, Vicuna, camel, goat, and An- gora hair: Germany Quantity. Kilograms 59, 000 200 400 59, 600 473, 600 116, 900 172, 300 6, 300 12, 500 33, 200 32, 500 10, 400 857, 700 800 Value per unit. Gulden 1. 96 .35 Value. Gulden. 115, 640 392 784 116, 816 165, 760 40, 915 60, 305 2, 205 4,375 11, 620 11, 375 3, 640 300, 195 264 Alpaca, cashmere, vicuna, camel, goat, and An- gora hair — Continued. Free port of Ham- burg Italy , Russia Turkey Roumania Total Hair of rabbit, beaver, mon- key, musk rat and nutria: Germany France Italy Russia ;ium Total Quantity. Kilograms 500 300 8, 000 100 200 Value per unit. Value. Gulden. Gulden. 165 2, 640 33 9, 900 29, 400 400 500 3, 400 900 34, 600 .33 3,267 191, 100 2, 600 3, 250 22, 100 5, 850 6. 50 224, 900 In Austria-Hungary the tariff law in force in 1837 imposed a duty of 30 kreutzers the gross centner, equal to about 25 cents the 123J pounds, or one-fifth of a cent a pound. The tariff law of June 27, 1878, made free, wool, raw, washed carded, colored, bleached, milled, and waste, and it has remained free to the present day. BELGIUM. IMPORTS OF RAW WOOL, 1874-1891 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 509 Quantities and Values of Wool and Manufactures of Wool Imported into and Exported from Austria- Hungary 1875 to 1890. [One metric centner equals 123-4615 pounds. One gulden equals 48.5 cents.] YEARS. Wool, raw. "Woolen yarn. Other manu- factures. Wool, raw. Manufactures of wool, a Quan- tity. V alue. Quan- tity. Value. Quan- tity. Value. Quan- tity. Value. Quan- tity. Value. Met. Quieten, Met. Gulden. Met. Gulden. Met. Gulden. Met. Gulden . ctr. ctr. ctr. ctr. ctr. 1875 ... (b) (b) 34, 062 14, 090, 000 41,557 26, 696, 000, (b) (b) 37, 921 20, 718, 000 1876 . . . (b) (b) 27, 642 9, 898, 000 35, 212 21, 963, 000 (b) (b) 37, 675 21, 314, 000 1877 ... (W (b) 34, 249 11,769, 000 26,412 15, 844, 000 (b) (b) 38, 643 20, 883, 000 1878 . . . (b) (b) 35, 646 11,225, 000 37, 358 20, 131, 000 (b) (b) 43, 587 25, 114, 000 1879 . . . 192, 959 34, 482, 000 38, 497 13, 623, 000 31, 811 19, 579, 000 76, 251 15, 009, 000 49, 338 27, 616, 000 1880 . . , 189, 478 35, 934, 000 36, 764 13, 692, 000 33, 103 21, 043, 000 120, 469 26, 267, 000 43, 676 24, 401, 000 1881 . . . 210, 902 40, 181, 000 38, 763 14, 161, 000 34, 052 21, 411, 000 94,631 19, 768, 000 53, 637 30, 335, 000 1882 . . . 238, 585 38, 863, 000 42, 924 14, 943, 000 34, 726 22, 350, 000 96, 997 20, 379, 000 52, 840 30, 025, 000 1883 . . . 244, 856 37, 075, 000 42, 343 13, 029, 000 30, 352 19, 263, 000 122, 901 24, 605, 000 46, 680 26, 235, 000 1884 . . . 255, 856 38, 420, 000 49, 548 14, 708, 000 28, 100 18, 017, 000 113, 748 21, 923, 000 50, 822 26, 615, 000 1885 ... 219, 701 26, 648, 000 47, 493 12, 278, 000 22, 256 13, 801, 000 91, 989 13, 919, 000 46, 761 21, 846, 000 1886... 207, 500 31, 498, 000 48, 417 13, 596, 000 20, 623 13, 348, 000 128, 817 24, 365, 000 53, 393 27, 357, 000 1887 . . . 241, 581 41, 208, 000 52, 131 16, 417, 0C0 18, 802 12, 034, 000 65, 751 14, 916, 000 47, 940 25, 126, 000 1888 . . . 226, 194 36, 653, 000 56, 153 i6, 534, 000 17, 320 9, 858, 000 89, 883 18, 740, 000 47, 752 24, 910, 000 1889 . . . 287, 180 49, 915, 000 60, 191 19, 791, 000 18, 133 10, 129, 000 127, 543 29, 488, 000 52, 808 25, 315, 000 1890 . . . 259, 169 39, 671, 000 55, 529 17, 880, 000 19, 084 9, 624, 000 97, 786 20, 046, 000 51, 184 22, 514, 000 1891. .. 267, 307 37, 057, 000 61, 414 17, 720, 000 21, 754 11, 974, 000 70, 188 11, 905, 000 37, 895 16, 887, 000 a Tarn not included. b Not stated. BELGIUM. The situation of Belgium in the wool trade (as a producer this country need hardly be considered, possessing in 1880 only 365,400 sheep and lambs) is peculiar. The imports of raw wools are very large, but they are largely intended for other markets of consumption. Thus, in 1891 the imports of wool in the general commerce of Belgium were 145,776,277 kilograms; in the special commerce only 42,162,612 kilograms. The quantity exported in the same year was 106,374,669 kilograms, of which only 2,761,004 kilograms were of Belgian origin, and the other part, 103,613,665 kilograms, was of foreign origin, in transit for European centers of consumption other than Belgian. As a distributor of wool the position of Belgium has not materially changed since 1885. In that year the total imports were 139,911,382 kilograms, and in 1891 145,776,277 kilograms, an increase of about 4 per cent. The total exports in 1885 were 99,223,007 kilograms, and in 1891 106,374,669 kilograms, an increase of 7-2 per cent. The quantity of Belgian wool exported fell from 3,115,699 kilograms in 1885 to 2,761,004 kilograms in 1891, a decrease of 11 per cent. The sources of 510 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. supply of imports and the countries of destination of exports in the two years are shown in the following table: COUNTRY OF ORIGIN OR DESTINATION. IMPORTS (GENERAL). EXPORTS. 1885 1891 1885 1891 7, 565, 675 33, 073, 922 8, 140, 891 29, 051, 069 43, 763, 596 5, 448, 414 1, 321, 559 39, 499, 573 4, 333, 849 2, 148, 732 24, 224, 996 152, 338 33, 992, 554 278, 407 424, 171 33, 882 2, 213, 333 86, 722 126, 192 Brazil 2, 700, 858 175, 545 147, 268 1, 104, 916 165, 319 Chile 171, 781 Denmark 31, 039 190, 799 9, 828, 897 103, 449 401, 462 51,273 703, 456 35, 612, 856 547, 764 214, 527 1, 008, 271 3, 347, 415 400, 975 95, 368 361,711 46, 829, 193 246, 085 3, 629, 768 1,015, 130 3, 190, 770 131, 920 United States 237, 849 27, 660, 059 France Luxemburg Italy Netherlands 12, 398, 726 9, 284, 004 1, 221, 790 135, 800 Dutch 63, 960 212,800 42, 445, 074 604, 766 36, 485 126, 887 3, 372, 208 28, 108 31, 844, 503 450, 415 267, 638 947, 727 3, 052, 394 191, 465 684, 821 1, 531, 405 1, 454, 303 582, 617 11, 129 58, 632 Total 139, 911, 382 244, 844, 918 145, 776, 277 255, 108, 485 99, 223, 007 181, 113, 140 106, 374, 669 195, 128, 934 Of the quantities exported in 1885 the larger share was derived from the Argentine Bepublic, 42,343,200 kilograms. This was an exceptional contribution from the Argentine, and has not been even approached in any subsequent year. In 1888 26,417,225 kilograms were of Argentine origin, and that quantity is nearer the normal. Of late years there has been a decrease; 27,755,092 kilograms in 1889; 19,208,282 kilograms in 1890; and 21,503,437 kilograms in 1891. The countries that have most benefited by the falling oft* of the imports from Argentine are Australia and France. In 1885 Australia contributed 17,961,455 kilograms; in 1889 only 9,265,922 kilograms. In 1890 the share of Australia rose to 20,854,138 kilograms, and in 1891 to 24,130,641 kilograms. To take the share contributed by France in 1885, 2,642,988 kilograms, would give a wrong impression of the importance of that country in this transit trade in wool of Belgium. In 1888 France gave 21,423,872 kilograms ; in 1890, 19,477,864 kilograms; and in 1891, 19,388,560 kilograms. The decrease WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 511 that has occurred in the wools credited to the United Kingdom is doubtless due to an increased direct importation from Australia and other British colonies. In 1885 the contribution of England was small as compared with subsequent years, 17,641,853 kilograms. In 1888, 30,061,873 kilograms; in 1889, 28,258,265 kilograms; and in 1890, 26,235,601 kilograms were obtained from the United Kingdom. In 1891 these imports fell to 19,674,385 kilograms. I can only repeat, it is from the commercial side that Belgium presents any point of interest in the wool industry, constituting, as it were, the center of distribution for feeding the needs of other continental countries. One point may be mentioned in connection with these returns, the general stability of the price or valuation of imported and exported wools in the Belgian returns. EXPORTS. YEARS. IMPORTS. Domestic. Foreign. Francs. Francs. Francs. 1885 1. 75 4. 15 1. 75 1886 1887 1.75 4.15 1. 75 1888 1.75 4.15 1. 75 1889 2. 00 5. 25 2. 00 1890 2. 00 5. 75 2. 00 1891 1.75 5. 00 1. 75 512 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Since writing the above the returns of 1892 have been received. I take the opportunity offered to give in parallel columns the u general" and the u special" commerce in wool of Belgium, to still further indicate the character and extent of the indirect movement: COUNTRY OF ORIGIN OR DESTINA- TION. Germany United Kingdom Australia Austria Bremen Brazil Cape of Good Hope . . . United States France Hamburg British India Argentine Republic . . Russia Uruguay Netherlands Denmark Luxemburg Italy Portugal Roumania Sweden and Norway . Switzerland Other Total Value (francs) Average (francs) General. Kilograms. 5, 208, 864 24, 998, 425 44, 756, 812 176, 117 124, 274 1, 067, 278 525, 813 160, 876 31, 290, 543 360, 422 130, 271 31, 349, 472 842, 451 2, 898, 485 4, 855, 070 Special. 490, 284 149, 235, 457 261, 162, 050 1. 75 Kilograms. 907, 468 6, 096, 424 7, 418, 390 23, 665 27, 280 415, 808 123, 342 39, 599 7, 483, 689 84, 273 32, 649 8, 331, 742 197, 882 724, 439 775, 833 83, 680 32, 766, 163 57, 340, 785 1.75 EXPORTS. General. Special. Kilograms. 45, 137, 013 3, 461, 923 Kilograms. 205. 162 1, 680 2, 678, 646 1. 647, 026 5, 292 929, 284 55, 017, 634 1,568, 760 1, 703, 189 609, 809 2, 220, 628 84, 571 220, 642 1, 383, 905 66, 059 72, 821 848, 825 2, 421, 293 146, 598 53, 199 71, 474 6, 141 118, 515, 437 212, 517, 373 1. 75 2, 046, 143 8, 696, 108 4. 25 0 DENMARK. IMPORTS AND EXPORTS OF RAW WOOL, 1874-1891. Imports. Exports. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OP WOOL. 513 Quantities and Values of Wool and Manufactures of Wool Imported into and Exported from Belgium, 1874 to 1891. [One kilogram equals 2*20462 pounds; one franc equals 19.3 cents.] IMPORTS. EXPORTS. Manu- Manufactures of wool. YEARS. Wool, raw. factures of wool. Yarn. Other manufactures. Quantity. Value. Value. Quantity. Value. Quantity. Value. Kilograms. Francs. Francs. 1 rrn Kilograms. Francs. Kilograms . Francs. 1874 CI f\KA AAA 51, 054, UUU 11 A 0*71 AAA 114, o/l, UUU 26, 318, 000 4, 949, 000 49, 369, 000 2, 792, 000 43, 390, 000 1875 a c oor; AAA 40, oZO, UUU 11/1 KttO AAA 114, OO.S, UUU 26, 765, 000 4, 571, 000 47, 854, 000 2, 608, 000 41, 628, 000 1876 K1 OAK AAA oi, yuo, uuu 1 (71 A AAA 100, / 14, UUU 25, 710, 000 3, 689, 000 39, 527, 000 2, 318,000 38, 953, 000 1877 4o, y04, UUU ioy, uyy, uuu 22, 981, 000 4, 880, 000 48, 890, 000 2 256,000 34, 195, 000 1878 Ad Z.A1 AAA 4o, 041, UUU 1 A R df\A AAA 140, OU4, UUU 21, 946, 000 6, 392, 000 67, 511, 000 2, 723, 000 38, 960, 000 1879 4J, Zo/, UUU -\A(\ RQO AAA 14U, Ooo, UUU 19, 266, 000 6, 541, 000 63, 551, 000 1, 938, 000 25, 754, 000 1880 49, 265, 000 184, 743, 000 23, 494, 000 7, 699, 000 78, 516, 000 1, 948, 000 27, 903, 000 1881 45, 509, 000 177, 485, 000 22, 746, 000 7, 790, 000 73, 987, 000 2, 180, 000 31, 365, 000 1882 57, 005, 000 114, 010, 000 22, 210, 000 6, 864, 000 41, 961, 000 2, 356, 000 30, 380, 000 1883 48, 358, 000 96, 716, 000 20, 817, 000 8, 966, 000 55, 240, 000 1, 982, 000 25, 168, 000 1884 36, 417, 000 72, 835, 000 21, 025, 000 8, 911, 000 53, 227, 000 2, 219, 000 26, 469, 000 1885 43, 802, 000 76, 654, 000 21, 948, 000 9, 379, 000 46, 768, 000 2, 550, 000 28, 535, 000 1886 39, 199, 000 68, 597, 000 20, 137, 000 11, 225, 000 56, 041, 000 2, 091, 000 22, 537, 000 IF 87 44, 377, 000 77, 660, 000 20, 301, 000 11,581,000 54, 606, 000 2, 162, 000 23, 450, 000 3888 38, 084, 000 66, 646, 000 19, 820, 000 11, 994, 000 55, 677, 000 2, 331, 000 25, 346, 000 1889 44, 164, 000 88, 328, 000 19, 586, 000 12, 658, 000 62, 663, 000 2, 448, 000 26, 557, 000 1890 35, 023, 000 70, 046, 000 20, 941, 000 11, 093, 000 54, 527, 000 2, 667, 000 29, 006, 000 1891 42, 163, 000 73, 785, 000 23, 062, 000 11,461, 000 65, 824, 000 2, 529, 000 26, 240, 000 DENMARK. Prior to 1888 Denmark exported more raw wool than it imported, and in that year the movement was almost balanced: 2,794,647 punds (pund=14025 pounds) of imports, and 2,775,325 punds of exports. Since that year the imports have increased, till they attained the amount of 3,770,205 punds in 1891, as compared with an export of 2,633,254 punds. The quantity of manufactures of wool imported remained about the same in the two years: 6,141,384 punds in 1888 and 6,255,527 punds in 1891. The number of sheep and lambs has not been returned since 1888 ; but the returns of that and previous years point to a steady decline: 1,842,481 in 1871; 1,719,249 in 1876; 1,548,613 in 1881 ; and 1,225,196 in 1888. If the years subsequent to 1888 give a like percentage of loss as the years previous, the number will have fallen below 1,000,000 at the present time. As a factor in the supply of wool Denmark has no influence; and as a consumer, its demand is so small as to be inappreciable in comparison with the takings of other countries. The tariff law in force in 1844 imposed on wools of every description an import duty of 1 rix dollar and 4 skellings (96 skellings=l rix dollar banco) the hundred pounds, equivalent to one- third of a cent a pound. Denmark charges no duty on imported wool of any kind or on hair, raw or prepared but not worked. H. Mis. 94 33 514 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Quantities of Wool and Manufactures of Wool Imported into, and of Wool Exported from, Denmark, 1874 to 1891. [One pund equals 1-1025 pounds.] YEARS. IMPORTS. EXPORTS. Wool, raw. Manufac- tures of wool. Wool, raw. Pund. Pund. Pund 1874 1, 392, 091 4, 106, 930 3, 967, 986 1875 1, 376, 399 4, 449, 805 3, 582, 662 1876 1, 292, 834 4, 118, 877 3, 869, 789 1877 1, 638, 146 3, 573, 974 4, 231, 661 1878 1, 939, 641 3, 580, 007 3, 417, 483 1879 1, 572, 275 4, 145, 125 4, 004, 440 1880 1, 669, 408 4, 775, 051 4, 372, 171 1881 J , 961. 046 4, 960, 478 4, 513, 293 1882 2, 867, 862 5, 227, 868 4, 103, 886 1883..... 2, 233, 953 5, 524, 364 4, 625, 936 2, 348, 541 5, 699, 830 3, 333, 405 1885 2, 233, 790 5, 445, 118 3, 431, 238 1886 2, 208, 831 4, 847, 662 3, 821, 279 1887 2, 674, 420 6, 043, 865 3, 167, 164 1888 2, 794, 647 6, 141, 384 2, 775, 325 1889 3, 187, 916 5, 967, 312 2, 264, 488 1890 2, 952, 754 5, 911, 214 2, 559, 484 1891 3, 770, 205 6, 255, 527 2, 633, 254 1 FRANCE. Wools in the French market have reflected the general situation just described in the English and American markets. The permanent com- mission on tariff values in 1892 say: In 1891 we established a fall in price of about 13 per cent on the average price of 1890, already so low, and it seemed as if the price could not fall lower, and yet if we compare the mean prices for the two years, 1891 and 1892, we find that Australian wool has fallen by l r, 5 per cent, the wools of the River Plate, Montevideo, by 7*5 per cent. The French wools by 12 to 15 per cent, according to the quality. — (C'est un veritable efifondrement des cours. The bottom has dropped out of the market.) In connection with prices on the French market may be noted one fact, or statement, made by this commission, the application of which is not confined to conditions in France. Commenting upon the fact that wools from Buenos Ayres ruled in the markets at about the same price a few years ago as Australian wools, it says : Taking as a type a first quality of French wool, the price of which combed was 5 francs, the combed wool of Australia was 4 francs 75 centimes and a prime quality of Buenos Ayres was 4*50 francs. To-day these proportions are reversed. The prime quality of Buenos Ayres has attained a value of a similar grade of Australian and the price of the first quality of French wool has often fallen below the price of the other two kinds of wool. The reasons for this are various. It may be said in a general way that the wool of the River Plate has greatly improved within a few years. The sheep raisers of these countries have purchased at good prices breeders of the Merino sheep to improve their flocks, and these selections have become evi- WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 515 dent in the production and improvement of the wool. In France, on the other hand, as almost everywhere through Europe, wool has been neglected and the efforts of raisers have been devoted to the production of meat and increase in weight. The types of wool to be compared are no longer the same. The grade of the River Plate wool has become superior and the wool of France inferior to what they were formerly. As to the leveling of the prices of River Plate and Australian wools, this is attributed generally to the fact that the River Plate wools are better adapted to the manufacture of such woolens as have been in favor during the last few years. There should also be added the influence already mentioned of a very largely increased production in Australian wools, which depressed prices of those wools in the world's markets, and must, therefore, have exerted a depressing effect on prices of those wools. The general course of prices of Eiver Plate and Australian wools (combed) in the French market may be seen from the following table: J anuary . February March April . May .. June July August September . October November. . December. . Average Fall in 1892 Fall per cent per 100 Average fall in 1892 per cent. River Plate (tram 78 mm.) 1892 Francs. 4. 70 4.50 4. 40 5.10 4. 90 4.70 4. 70 4. 80 4. 80 4.70 4. 75 4. 65 4. 72 0. 61 11.24 12.27 1891 Francs. 5. 75 5. 60 5. 50 5. 60 5. 50 5. 50 5. 30 5. 25 5. 15 5. 10 5. 00 4.80 5. 33 Australian (tram 86 mm.) 1892 Francs. 4. 80 4.70 4. 60 5. 25 4. 90 4. 90 4.70 4.85 4.85 4. 80 4. 85 4.75 4. 83 0. 74 13.30 12. 27 DOMESTIC CLIP OF WOOL IN FRANCE. The latest available returns of the sheep industry in France are those for 1891, which may be taken as a general gauge of tlie production of wool in 1892. Animals. Average weight of a fleece. Wool in the grease. Number. 13, 198, 000 6, 216, 000 2, 380, 000 Kilos. 2. 650 0. 750 Kilos. 34, 974, 700 4, 662, 000 Lambs under 6 months Total 21,794.000 39, 636, 700 9, 169, 000 48, 805, 700 48, 621, 300 Total of clip 1891 Return of 1890 516 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. While we have seen that Great Britain uses, in her woolen industry, less than one-half of the total quantity of wool imported, France, on the other hand, consumed nearly nine-tenths of her imports of wool. In 1892 the quantity of wool imported was 203,862,629 kilograms. The quantity exported was 21,753,217 kilograms, leaving a net import of 182,109,412 kilograms as compared with a net import of 169,291,000 kilo- grams in 1891 and 150,380,000 kilograms in 1890. To this should be added the wool obtained from imported skins and the shearing of sheep imported alive and the domestic wool clip, making the total supply for French manufactures 248,256,000 kilograms as against 238,932,000 kilograms in 1891 and 220,000,000 kilograms in 1890. On this showing- France consumes one-quarter of the entire wool supply, and about one- half of the wool used in European countries, giving her the first rank in the countries manufacturing wool. The increase, quantitatively, in the wool consumed in manufacture was greater in Germany than in France, and French exx3orters, while setting aside any fear of active competition on the part of England or the United States, shielded principally by their specialties, expressed their fear of serious compe- tition on the side of Germany. While the consumption of France in 1892 was 10,000,000 kilograms greater than in 1891, it was estimated that the increase in Germany was 15,000,000 kilograms. Of the wool used in the French industry in 1892 one-fifth was of native origin, one- third of Australian, and more than two-fifths of the Eiver Plate. The remarkable feat are in this showing is the enormous strides in the imports of wool from Australia in the last three years. Kilograms. 1890 1, 940, 331 1891 11, 099, 101 1892 24,136,501 PRICES OF WOOL IN FEANCE. 1861 1862 1863 1864 1865 1866 1867 1868 1869 1870 1871 1872 1873 1874 1875 1876 Per kilo- gram. Per pound. YEARS. Per kilo- gram. Per pound. Francs. Hollars. Francs. Dollars. 3. 00 0. 263 1877 2. 60 0. 228 3. 75 .328 1878 2. 60 .228 4. 20 .368 1879 3. 00 .263 3.95 .346 1880 3. 50 .306 3.50 .306 1881 3.00 .263 3.10 .271 1882 2. 35 .206 2. 60 .228 1883 2.30 .201 2. 30 .201 1884 2. 20 .193 2. 10 .184 1885 1.80 .158 2. 30 .201 1886 2.15 .188 3.00 .263 1887 2. 00 .175 3. 20 .280 1888 2, 05 .179 3.00 .263 1889 2. 25 .197 2. 90 .254 1890 2. 25 .197 2. 80 .245 1891 2. 08 .182 2. 50 .219 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 517 TARIFF. The tariff law as in force in January, 1842, made a distinction between wools imported by French vessels and such as were imported by for- eign vessels or overland. " Wool in masses," when imported in French vessels, paid a duty of 20 per cent ad valorem; when imported by foreign vessels or by land, a duty of 22J per cent. Combed wool paid a uniform duty of 30 per cent ad valorem, without respect to the manner of entering the country. Dyed wool paid a tax of 3 francs a kilogram when brought in by French vessels, and of 3.175 francs the kilogram when brought in otherwise. The former duty was equivalent to about 57 cents a pound. The duty on refuse wool was nominal — 1 franc the 100 kilograms by French vessels and 1 franc 10 centimes by foreign. The tariff in France that was in force from 1861 to May 8, 1881, was modified in December, 1873, by the imposition of an additional duty of 4 per cent. In that general tariff wool of all kinds, combed or carded, paid a duty of 87 francs 36 centimes the 100 kilograms ; under conven- tional tariffs a duty of 25 francs per 100 kilograms. Dyed wools paid under the general tariff 124 francs 80 centimes and under the conven- tional 25 francs the 100 kilograms. The general tariff thus imposed a duty of about 8.6 cents a pound on combed or carded wool and about 13 cents a pound on dyed wool. Under the conventional tariff the duty on both classes was a little over 2 cents a pound. The general tariff promulgated on the 8th of May, 1881, removed all duties from imports of wool, including alpaca, llama, vicuna, yak, camePs hair, Australian, and Cape of Good Hope in bulk or when imported direct from country of growth. Wool, carded, combed, or dyed, was subject to a duty of 25 francs the 100 kilograms net, or about 2.2 cents a pound. By the general tariff law of 1 892 all wools and hairs of the yak, camel, and cashmere were admitted free of duty in the mass. When dyed, combed, or carded (undyed), under the general tariff, they paid a duty of 32^ francs the 100 kilograms, which could be reduced under the con- ventional tariff to 25 francs the 100 kilograms. Wools, combed or carded, dyed, were subject to an additional duty of 2J francs the 100 kilograms. The duty under the general tariff is thus about 2 cents a pound. 518 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Quantities and Values of Wool and Manufactures of Wool Imported into and Exported from France, 1861 to 1891. [One kilogram equals 2*20462 pounds. One franc equals 19.3 cents. Wool, raw. Quantity. Value. Kilograms. 55, 359, 000 48, 826, 000 63, 792, 000 63. 028. 000 72, 663, 000 86, 261.000 93, 205, COO 110, 700, 000 108, 600, 000 88, 147, 000 101, 958, 000 107, 862, 000 120, 545, 000 117, 353, 000 128, 010, 000 123, 178, 000 134, 235, 000 144.100,000 134, 214, 000 151. 067, 000 138, 332, 000 140, 983, 000 157,112, 000 165, 956, 000 167, 356, 000 193, 274, 000 177, 464, 000 175, 519, 000 194, 260, 000 176, 666, 000 195, 103, 000 Francs. 166, 100, 000 180, 700, 000 218, 800, 000 214. 300. 000 236, 200, 000 245, 800. 000 223, 700, 000 237, 900, 000 206, 300, 000 189, 500, 000 193, 700, 000 324, 900, 000 325, 600, 000 310, 987, 000 326, 522, 000 277, 200, 000 315, 500, 000 334, 617, 000 288, 728, 000 370, 224, 000 304, 333, 000 303, 126, 000 330, 087, 000 332, 105, 000 276, 442, 000 386, 851, 000 336, 056, 000 341, 252, 000 389, 347, 000 355, 999, 000 356, 632, 000 Value of wool man- ufactures. Francs. 20, 600, 000 41, 000, 000 33, 400, 000 52, 000. 000 38, 100, 000 42, 800, 000 42, 100, 000 54, 500, 000 64, 300, 000 57, 900, 000 76, 500, 000 99, 900, 000 59, 700, 000 66, 600, 000 78, 100, 000 79, 000. 000 68, 600. 000 68. 700, 000 68. 176, 000 79, 100, 000 76, 991, 000 84, 290, 000 91, 858, 000 88, 799, 000 75, 523, 000 70, 821, 000 63, 872, 000 65, 176, 000 67, 823, 000 66, 917, 000 74, 879, 000 Wool, raw. Quantity. Value Kilograms. 6. 448, 000 12, 177,000 11, 006, 000 12, 141,500 7, 913, 000 10, 089, 000 13, 611, 683 12, 067, 000 17, 147, 000 21, 300, 000 29, 881, 000 22, 504, 000 19, 445, 000 24,413, 000 21, 617, 000 21,077. 000 21,443, 000 27. 072. 000 34, 996, 000 35, 062, 000 29, 479, 000 29, 555, 000 31, 448, 000 32, 917, 000 36, 981, 000 48, 825, 000 44, 429, 000 47, 079, 000 57, 885, 000 41, 273, 000 41, 831, 000 Francs. 21, 000, 000 45, 100, 000 48, 200, 000 51, 100, 000 33, 000, 000 33, 500, 000 43, 200, 000 36, 500, 000 44, 700, 000 59, 100, 000 75, 300, 000 102, 200, 000 86, 600, 000 104, 200, 000 84, 100, 000 74, 800, 000 77, 100,000 89. 725. 000 117, 222, 000 132, 456, 000 105, 618, 000 95, 360, 000 95, 139, 000 95, 999, 000 90, 833, 000 132, 018, 000 120, 011, 000 131, 284, 000 168, 840, 000 120, 745, 000 108, 889, 000 Value of wool manu- factures. Tarn. Francs. 12, 500, 000 15, 200, 000 19, 100, 000 21, 200, 000 23. 600. 000 30, 800, 000 25, 000, 000 27, 800, 000 24, 700, 000 40, 600, 000 31, 100, 000 31, 300, 000 36, 900, 000 | 39,720,000 | 28.600,000 I 26.800.000 ! 37.200,000 I 43,692,000 j 49,300.000 38,147,000 39. 849, 000 34, 602, 000 32, 337, 000 35, 605, 000 43, 896, 000 39, 622, 000 37, 160, 000 55, 537, 000 34, 694, 000 22, 336, 000 Other man- ufactures. Francs. 188. 000, 000 221, 700, 000 293, 600. 000 355, 900, 000 302, 800, 000 301, 700, 000 236, 800, 000 224, 900, 000 268, 300, 000 23L 600, 000 254, 400, 000 314, 500, 000 325, 900, 000 328, 000, 000 346, 400, 000 316, 500, 000 325. 100, 000 312, 800, 000 309, 297, 000 370. 200, 000 360, 717, 000 401, 900, 000 370,106, 000 334, 294, 000 330, 094, 000 375, 583, 000 350, 447, 000 323, 376, 000 364, 416, 000 361, 325, 000 326, 929, 000 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 519 1 I I »" Sf 5 - liii 1 t t i III • if § of » «o N « M III ttt §£§i I s' i 5 - s' I assgssss III tf-fft'tf****?* I - - - jf if - 1 g g 1 1 1 f Mi iii ills as I 8" Sf * statu S" of » - T s « f igllslslsl W 00 CO t>' rH III gi5 g I s'l'i S" § I f I sfsf N » l> 00 t» ^ H © m co CO © © (N © © I- IO co © © i— I © in © fa O cm m t~ © m © co co co . co in fa PS o fa CO © © CO fa fa fa QC fa O fa fa fa a p CO O © © © A !> 0 > v. a ^ o 03 © r- ^ £ cfi Pw WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 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CD" OS" °> os m O rH CO lO cm" g lO CO CO m m co os o b- —i o m o m os co co co b- O O -h co m CO CD - CO CO b- rH rH OS rH ITS co" cm" •2 PQ CM CO O ■Hi CO O CO OS rH CO O m m cm co -1 o ^ ■* CO OS rH O r- e -1 OS b- ■* CS H CO CO CO co" co" os" .9 # <| H <1 S <1 O f> r> O M P O i-l o CM CO - OS CM OS CO CO CO CO O hi o m m co O OS co co O rH O rH O CO b- O f-< b- m co o co co 5y s 3 CM tO H H CO O CO CO hT co" cm" CO CO -Hi CO CO OS CO CM OS 5 ft s £ «2 ft 1 &-l < o g 5 CP CO s .2 33 P 528 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. .9 o O I w o ft rH o o &h o « P H Q < a ft o CO H Ch o M CM CO CO © O CO CO CO O CO CO t- 8 if) N oo t» J. O r)l O O X OJ ^ N l> go" co" ©" t-T cm' . O CO lO t- l> 60 — t 00 O i— I o g Ol ^ O0 lO (M § co o CM © O © OS O CO ICO -r}i CO 4C8 CM t> CM CM CD • CO • c- < CO CM >o o ■CO o o t> to h- iO t> o OS x* IO CM • CM • l> • CM c4" CO co" 00 • co" • CM 00 CM iO lO r> CM • ©" • CM l> 00 o cm" co" cd" oo oo co rH CM © CM t— t- CM rH o t— t> o oo co t» io in o rH co o © tr- co T-t CO IO 00 O CD O CO io" 10" <<*" tjT co" ©"* i-T CO x* rH CO CM CM S co © cc CD t- CO t> CM m CO t> co • CD • CO • CO • CO • TjH OS CM CO © CO o CO o CO 00 CO rH . CO ■ CO (O rH 00 co" CO • co" • CO •' co" • in OS CM CO t> • irf • CD • t— OS CO CO -H/l LO CI g © rH « ©" co" -*" to co © rHO©CM©©t~0 »000 -*" ©" tr^" cm" t-T t>T co" OtOOCOOHHN C- CO © Tfl rH CM © CO t-- C- o © IO m cm" co" co" CO o • t- © © t~ 6B © CO CM ■<* g io co m ifl § CO" l> t^" ~ m -* o n O 00 rH ^ © rH O CM CO © t> rH CM CO © m flj h m © © m I t- CO T*4 PH !» H 3 | in w ^ h5 £ ffl '5 & tH .H M ? C N dOOJOtONlMOO^ cm" r-T co o" t-' t> cm" co co" J 00 © © CM ^ © ^* CO CM OO CM CO iH (M fc- © K5 IM H N l> !D t> 00 t— CO © .oo^^oisooo^ti© t>©CMlOTjiOi-H^(M to" io cT if> Q0 00 o" 00 (N tOCMO©©iHt^©t> CO rH CM tO lO r-l lO CO LO CO CM CO CO Tt< lO © CO CM © © ^ CO CM oo © oo co t- O O O H C5 oo © © lM I> CO H CO H H ce S co co o o m o oi co h c- »o >o oo oo ic co oo © CO lO © 00 CM CM © © o" ©" © CO r-l CM co" rH©rHl-^(MCO^©iHrH© coooHOmoo)NOcoi> »0 05iflCOO5HC0(»CO CM © « H P fin cc €8 5" H £ r3 si ^ c3 ifl oT io~ <>f co" ccT o" CO CO O H O l> 05 O CO CO as m o OS 00 CO m OS 00 OS o of 0" i> CO CO CO t- os fc- CO t> O (M OS CO l> to CO t- to 00 o to CO to g 36 e to OS — < o 10 00 lO ^ 10 00 CO CO CO o lO !>■ CO O ^ O O 00 CO o 10 to to" i> t-T SB s 10 co co co 00 10 t^COCOCOt~-* O" t> IC O" i> m o CO X N CO t- O CO OS O t» O) t- co cs 2 p ^ B 3 SB J £ £ CD ^ p g £ bJO § B s* H M B S O o ca oj WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 531 Exports of Manufactures of Wool from France— Continued. COUNTRIES TO WHICH EXPORTED. 1892 COUNTRIES TO WHICH EXPORTED. Stuffs, all wool, for furniture Germany Belgium United Kingdom Spain Italy United States Other countries Total Value (francs) Value per unit (francs) Dress goods, other : Germany Netherlands Belgium United Kingdom Portugal Spain Kilograms. 40, 461 25, 520 32, 789 69, 348 42, 408 25, 783 64. 526 300, 835 2, 406, 680 8.00 127, 984 107, 640 1, 426, 967 3,104,632 43, 424 37, 990 Dress goods, other— Continued Italy Switzerland Turkey Japan United S' 9 1883 1 $ QC *» 188S I QO 00 \1889 I QO 3 12 11 10 ** «? k / 8 / / \ — < s S / 7 / S S 6 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 535 ITALY. Accepting the estimates of the census returns of 1890 the number of sheep in Italy has not materially decreased since 1875. The number was 6,977,104 in 1875 and 0,900,000 in 1890. The domestic product or clip of wool has never been sufficient to meet the wants of the woolen manufacturers. In 1875 0,500,000 kilograms of raw wool were imported, and in 1891 8,992,000 kilograms — showing but little elasticity in the home demand. As little elasticity is shown in the demand for woolen manufactures or for manufactures of wool mixed with cotton. In 1875 the value of woolen manufactures, pure or mixed, was 45,962,000 lire, and in 1891 43,553,000 lire. In 1892 every pound of wool that Italy imported was for domestic consumption; but of the domestic product there was quite an export, Switzerland taking two-thirds. The prin- cipal countries from which wool was imported, in that year, are shown in the following table : COUNTRIES. Austria-Hungary Belgium Trance Germany United Kingdom . . . Malta Greece Russia Spain Switzerland Turkey in Europe. . . Turkey in Asia British East Indies . Egypt Tunis and Tripoli. . . Algeria Uruguay Argentine Republic Total Total exports . Wool in the giease. Kilograms. 105, 200 75, 000 541, 300 79, 600 62, 700 5, 100 10, 700 39, 500 60, 800 43, 000 38, 600 202, 500 6, 000 2, 202, 500 3, 472, 500 1, 646, 400 Wool washed. Kilograms. 910, 900 8, 000 1, 035, 500 68, 400 32, 700 1, 200 12, 900 146, 500 33, 300 11, 700 177, 100 7, 100 20, 400 95, 600 26, 300 1,500 2, 589, 500 251, 600 536 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Production and Value of Wood in Italy in 1890. PROVINCES AND AGRICULTURAL DIS- TRICTS, 0 Piedmont: Coui Turin Alessandria Novara Total Lombardy : Pavia Como Sondrio Bergamo Brescia Mantua Total Venetia : Verona Yicenza Belluno Eldine Treviso Yen ice Padua Total Liguria : Porto Maurizio Genoa Massae Carrara ... Total Emilia: Piacenza Parma Reggio nell' Emilia Modena Ferrara Bologna Ravenna Forli Total Marches and TJmbria : Pasaro and Urbino Ancona Macerata Ascoli Piceno Perugia Total Total value of white and black. WHITE WOOL. Raw. Medium price for washed, per kilogram . Quantity. Price per kilogram. Value. Lire. 130 170 637, 202 7, 504 98, 270 Kilograms. 99, 300 475, 800 5, 835 47 600 Lire. 1. 31 1. 34 1. 13 2 06 Lire. 130, 170 637, 202 6, 594 98 270 Lire. 2. 56 2. 90 2. 00 2. 65 873, 146 OZO, 06D 1. o\) 2. 52 16, 500 36, 270 106, 000 83, 055 135, 000 3,426 10, 000 17, 524 42, 400 41, 367 90, 000 1, 860 1.65 2. 07 2. 00 1. 82 1. 50 1.84 16, 500 36, 270 84, 800 75, 499 135, 000 3,426 2. 64 2. 50 2. 30 380, 251 203, 151 1.73 351, 495 2. 48 15, 000 86, 458 64, 390 183, 518 1 53, 290 51, 918 27 787 15, 000 51, 057 36, 000 ftl 77Q 30, 800 35, 406 20, 420 1.00 1. 69 .1.79 1. m (&) a Includes manufactures of wool and cotton. b Included in manufacture of pure wool. 540 * WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. NETHERLANDS. GENERAL IMPORTS OF WOOL. Quantity (kilograms). COUNTRIES FROM WHICH IMPORTED. Africa, east coast Argentine Republic Australia Belgium Brazil British East Indies Cape of Good Hope Curacao Denmark Dutch East Indies France Germany: Bremen Hamburg Prussia . Greece Italy I Peru and Bolivia Portugal Russia: Baltic and White seas . Black Sea Spain Straits Settlements Turkey United Kingdom United States Total . 1888 9, 552, 978 13, 750 9U 13, 523 157, 349 37, 629 3, 574, 960 164 11, 236 170 1,020 7, 875 1889 16, 230 7, 632, 961 31, 116 230, 946 687 64, 611 3, 722, 426 1890 75, 537 7, 788, 753 111, 500 16, 142 5, 635 55, 164 54, 470 4, 231, 889 975 3, 438 90 13, 265 3, 390 22, 490 18,842,325 \ 19,509,931 990 9, 700 106 78, 990 1,249 19, 873, 652 4, 850 32, 213, 893 31, 253, 951 . 32, 313, 040 1891 10 7, 626, 728 10, 810 10, 775 1, 766 9,957 12, 200 56, 947 1, 177 48, 656 3, 489, 704 47, 071 30 25, 809 1, 330, 144 494 67, 260 25, 430, 538 922 38, 170, 998 IMPORTS FOR CONSUMPTION. Quantity (kilograms). Long wool — 16, 230 31, 460 Australia 10 1, 227, 469 Belgium 1, 390, 565 1, 526, 153 1, 296, 555 1, 412, 355 24, 918 8, 171 1,075 3, 096 384, 004 120 1,073 10, 731 594, 768 France 4, 907 8, 913 347, 567 735 986 4, 097 736, 648 Germany: Hamburg Italy 900 589, 738 250 9, 700 425 3, 197, 193 Total 4, 566, 021 3, 722, 368 9, 168, 181 3, 879, 146 6, 352, 932 5, 102, 123 5, 667, 025 11, 137, 391 5, 907, 057 •J WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 541 NETHERLANDS — Continued. IMPORTS FOR CONSUMPTION— Continued. Yalue (gulden). COUNTRIES FROM WHICH IMPORTED. 1888 1889 1890 1891 1892 P" v., \1385 1 I 7(555 1 \1889 \ \1890 \ — i r V / \ / / S, 1 — 4 5'' % < r* i *> V -i ■V ✓ - r A 1 e / r k 1 \ \ s t i N ! N N | ... Norway. Sweden. PORTUGAL. IMPORTS AND EXPORTS OF RAW WOOLS, 1874-1890. Imports. Exports . WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 549 PORTUGAL. Quantities and Values of Wool and Manufactures of Wool Imported into and Exported from Portugal, 1874 to 1890. a [One kilogram equals 2-20462 pounds. One milreis equals $1.08.] YEARS. IMPORTS. EXPORTS. Wool, raw. Manufactures of wool. Wool, raw. Quantities. Values. Quantities. Values. Quantities. Values. Kilograms. Milreis. Kilograms. Milreis. Kilograms. Milreis. 1874 .. 1, 992, 000 671, 000 632, 000 1, 654, 000 652, 400 217, 000 2, 624, 000 836, 000 806, 000 2, 148, 000 723, 800 224, 900 1870 1, 559, 000 601, 000 678, 000 1, 797, 000 752, 400 201, 500 1877 1, 629, 000 814, 000 723, 000 1, 853, 000 987, 600 251, 000 1878 2, 538, 000 768, 300 615, 000 1, 410, 000 879, 600 222, 400 1879 2, 092, 000 582, 000 461, 000 1, 038, 000 722, 300 167, 100 1880 2, 333, 000 610, 000 493, 000 1, 188, 000 1,211, 700 381, 200 1881 2, 889, 000 778, 000 556, 000 1, 496, 000 609, 000 198, 000 1882. . 2, 447, 000 621, 000 543, 000 1, 350, 000 767, 000 221, 000 1883 . . . 2, 743, 000 686, 000 570, 000 1, 380, 000 800, 000 203, 000 1884 2, 875, 000 758, 000 572, 000 1, 399, 000 582, 000 134, 000 1885 2, 355, 000 745, 000 646, 000 1, 532, 000 686, 000 149, 000 1786 . 5, 137, 000 1, 347, 000 742, 000 1, 627, 000 720, 000 155, 000 1887 3, 923, 000 907, 000 ' 815, 000 1, 726, 000 826, 000 184, 000 1888 . . 4, 416, 000 924, 000 816, 000 1, 851, 000 925, 000 199, 000 1889 4, 067, 000 956, 000 943, 000 2, 006, 000 956, 000 203, 000 1890 . . . 4, 046, 000 1,222, 000 952, 000 2, 084, 000 631, 000 143, 000 a Returns for 1891 not yet available. RUSSIA. Bussia in Europe (exclusive of Poland).* The number of sheep and lambs in 1877 was 51,822,238; in 1883, 46,724,736; and in 1888 (the latest year for which returns are available), 44,465,454. t In twelve years the decrease was 14-1 per cent. As will be seen from the trade tables, Eussian exports of wool have been about the same since 1873 (and naturally the greater export, if not the entire export, would be over the European frontier to the countries having woolen manufactures). With a diminishing domestic clip, and with little alteration in the imports of wool, raw and in the yarn, the growth of the Eussian wool interests must occur in the enormous stretch of Asiatic territory subject to her control, a territory that is as completely outside of statistical record as though it belonged to another planet. Further, the number- ing of the domestic sheep must be incomplete, for no census of that kind of property is full even in more densely settled countries where the administration is compact and centralized. That the exports of wool in 1891 were about what they were in 1883, is fair evidence of an * In 1888 Poland contained 3,754,665 sheep. t Of this number only about 9,500,000 were of a fine breed. 550 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. increased yield to the fleece or an increased source of supply. The one conclusion is opposed by the general information we have of the avooI- growing interest in southern Kussia, whence the United States draws its supplies; the other is opposed by the returns of the number of sheep in the Eussian Empire. In 1844 it was written, "Bussia may be said to prohibit the importa- tion of every material like those which can be drawn, by the labor of her serfs, from her mines and forests; and of every foreign manufac- tured article, in order that the labor of those serfs, with the aid of machinery either imported or made in the country and directed by skillful foreign artisans, shall be made to produce articles either similar to or that may be substituted for those of foreign manufacture. We readily admit that this prohibitive system, so generally injurious to the Empire, may be very profitable to the nobles at Moscow and elsewhere who are the proprietors of the cheaply and coarsely fed and clad serfs. # * # Cotton twist, still required by her, and sheep's wool, several other articles not enumerated, are admitted at small nominal duties. 7 ' In 1841 the duty on sheep's wool raw was 1 ruble 90 kopecs the pood, and on wool of camels, goats, etc., 12 kopecks the pood. Sheep's wool scoured paid a duty of 2 rubles the pood, and when combed, but not dyed, 4 rubles the pood. Dyed wool, combed or spun, paid a duty of 4 rubles 30 kopecks the pood. By a law of 1882 the duties were as follows : WOOL. Duty. Cents per pound. Wool and down : Raw, washed and not washed, not dyed; also flock wool and 1 ruble per pood 2 cloth shearings. Unspim, of every kind, dyed; also artificial wool (shoddy, 4 mungo), cloth rags, and wool waste dyed. A new general law was approved by the imperial ukase of June 11, 1891, imposing duties, as follows: WOOL. Duty. Wool or hair, neither combed or spun : (1) Raw or washed, not dyed; combings and waste of wool, not dyed (2) Djes; artificial wool (shoddy, mungo, etc.) and wool shearings, cuttings of cloth of all kinds, and wool waste, dyed. (3) Combed, not dyed 2 rubles the pood. 3 rubles the pood. 5.50 rubles the pood. 7 rubles the pood. Dyed The well-known Russian carpet wool is a product of the southeastern govern- ments, and not to be found equal in length and strength in any other j>art of the world. The most valuable are the " Savolga" fleeces, of 4 to 6 inches in length, and as the climate is a very trying one in these provinces, the wool becomes soft and downy. The next best quality are the " Donskoi" fleeces, to be found in the steppes on both sides of the River Don. The production of the Savolga fleeces has dimished considerably during the last decade, as the original breeders of this kind of sheep, WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OP WOOL. 551 the Khirgese, are becoming poorer from year to year. The pastures of these nomads extended as far as the Volga, and the rich, flat country bordering the river had placed them in the position of keeping large herds of steppe sheep. Gradually the pastures of the Khirgese were cultivated by the Government, who also took posses- sion of them, and therefore they were driven back into the uncultivated steppes, where, in consequence of the bad climate and the scarcity of food, their live stock diminished considerably. Peasants settled on this land, formerly used for pastures, and began to breed the steppe sheep. These peasants, and those in the Don districts, are the only ones that breed this kind of sheep, which do not require shelter or much care. Wealthier peasants occupy their time with breeding the Merino sheep, which pays them better. The difference in price is as follows : The Savolga or Donskoi fleeces realize from 10 to 12 rubles against 28 to 32 rubles per pound for the merino fleeces. The trade with carpet wools is consequently a most difficult one. While merino wool is brought into the market in large quantities, carpet wool is brought by the farmers in small quantities and sold again to the wool cleaners, who, after having washed and assorted the same, bring it to market. The wool is very often mixed with burs, which grow in abundance in several of the districts mentioned and are difficult to remove. The most important wool-washers have their offices in Moscow, as the best carpet wool is brought here for home consumption as well as for export pur- poses. This city (Moscow) is the center for all dealers and manufacturers in Russia. The wool that comes on the market in the interior, say Charkow, Rostow on the Don, is very often very unreliable, and great care and observation are necessary when purchasing; whereas the wool sold in Moscow can better be relied upon. This also applies to the u camel hair," "autumn," and "lamb's wools," which are like- wise used for the manufacture of carpets. This is the cheapest and best material used at a reasonable price for this purpose. The trade in these articles is confined almost exclusively to Armenians and Tartars, who realize from their sale, partly at Nijni fair and partly at Moscow. The price of this kind of wool differs according to quality and purity." * From a report made to the Department by George Scott ? TL S. con- sul at Odessa, under date May 28, 1885 ? I extract the following: There are several denominations of wool, namely, Cherromari, coarse long wool ; Belovadsk, coarse, very long wool; Don wool of the Cossack territory, short or second clip; Line, short wool of the Caucasus, soft texture staple; Manitch, or Don wool, from the villages along the river Manitch, of good length, although clipped in the autumn; and Brook- washed wool, autumn shorn, also in grease. All of the above are sold or shipped under the denomination of Donskoi wool. * * * The total quantity of Donskoi wools in grease bought annually in this consular district amounts to about 400,000 poods (2,400,000 pounds), exclusive of brook-washed and greasy autumns. * * * After going through the process of washing the wool is shipped mostly to the United States and a small portion to France and England. The loss in washing depends on the condition of the wools in the grease and the cleanliness required; it is about 40 to 45 per cent. Russian washed wools are also brought to the ports for sale under the denomina- tion Donskoi. Those wools are, the greatest portion, in foot bales, and some in press boles, washed in the interior at Barosiliptz, on the River Coper; at Saritsine, on the Volga ; in the Caucasus, near Stasoropol, and in villages on the river Manitch ; also near Cherson. In 1884 something over 5,000 bales were sold to exporters and rebaled. Merino fine wools, grown on the line of the Caucasus, near and along the river Kuban and in the district of the Don Cossack territory, form a great portion of the commerce in Rostow on the Don. There are many large sheep farms kept by set- *U. S. Consul Van Riper, Consular Report 41, May, 1884. 552 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. tiers from the Tauride, who took their sheep there during the Crimean war. The high prices paid during some years have enticed many peasants and small farmers to rear this class of sheep, finding it more advantageous than rearing common sheep. Of the quantity fine merino wool in the grease brought to the ports of this district annually one-half is generally contracted for at fixed prices during the winter. A large portion is exported in the grease to France, England, Belgium, and Prussia. The remainder is sent to the interior towns to he scoured for the Moscow market and manufactories. * * * The weight of fleece of merino wool is, from ewes, 6 to 7 pounds ; from rams, 8 to 9 pounds, Russian ; but all depends on the winter, the pastures, the locality, and the spring weather. From a report made by Thomas E. Heenan, U. S. consul at Odessa, in March, 1890, I gather that the quantity of Donskoi, or coarse wool, brought in the grease to the washeries in Eostow on the Don, in 1889, amounted to nearly 10,000,000 pounds, of which 9,000,000 pounds were sent to the United States. This wool when washed was reduced in weight about one-half. The quantity of merino wool brought to the same place amounted to 40,000,000 pounds in that year. The consul reports : The quantity of merino wool increases every year in Russia, as woolgrowers find it a good investment, prices during the past four years ruling very high. England takes more than half the total quantity of merino wool offered for sale in Russia, and the United States nearly all of the coarse wool. Merino wools are never shipped from Russia to the United States. The same consul, in a report made three months later, attempted to give the cost of sheep-raising in South Eussia, but omitted to state whether it was the coarse or the merino wools that the farmer was rais- ing. According to his statement the average size of the flock was about 1,200 sheep and the number of attendants for such a flock w^as 4, 3 men and a boy. The wages of a man was $50 a year, and of the boy $20, with food, shelter, and a part of their clothes. The average cost of sheep per year to the breeders was placed at 2 rubles, and its equiva- lent in American currency was $1.09, though I can not determine what rate he takes for the ruble, as the silver value would by no means cor- respond to this equivalent. The average weight of a fleece was 9 pounds and the average price per pound was from 10 to 12i cents. From 5 to 10 per cent of sheep are lost annually through disease, age, and neglect. The proportion of lambs is about 20 per cent. Sheep imported from other countries change their fleece, the wool grows coarser and loses its grease. The conditions as described probably apply to the carpet wool, or Donskoi grade. The usual quantity of merino wool found its way to this market during the past season, viz, ahout 17,460 tons ; of these ahout 15,080 tons were bought up by Russian and Polish manufacturers, only about 1,746 tons being exported to England, while 635 tons still remain here in the hands of speculators. It may be observed that the exports of merino wool are yearly decreasing, owing to the inability of exporters to olfer the prices the Russian buying are in a position to pay consequent upon the ever- increasing denand for home consumption. The prices paid were from 4^. to 5f r 0 ■ '■ Exports. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OP WOOL. 553 The amount of Donskoi greasy wool brought to this market during the past year was about 3,650 tons, as against 4,127 tons in 1891. The deficiency is accounted for by the fact that purchases were made in the interior to supply the demand for the northern provinces brought about by a severe loss of sheep in those parts duriug the winter. Of the above quantity about 160 tons were taken for home consumption, the remainder being bought by export houses. Shipments in the grease amounted to about 715 tons, exclusively to America; the remaining quantity being washed yielded about 1,905 tons, which were likewise exported, principally to the United States, excepting about 238 tons shipped partly to France and Italy and a trifling quantity to Germany. The prices ruling during the season were from 3%d. to 3f d. per pound, without any sudden or marked changes taking place. The quality of the wool was somewhat below the average, the sheep having suf- fered for want of sufficient food during the winter, owing to the unsatisfactory hay crop of the preceding year. The quantity of brook-washed autumn and lambs' wool offered for sale was about 795 tons, of which about 700 tons were secured for export to the United States, viz, about 600 tons autumns and 100 tons lambs, the remainder being sold to Russian manufacturers. A few thousand pounds of the better quality lambs' wool were for- warded to Moscow for sale instead of to this market, owing to the higher prices obtainable there. The prices paid here were from b^d. to 6d. per pound. About 160 tons autumns left over from the* previous year were shipped to the United States in the spring.* Odessa: export, 1891, 3,057 tons, 200,700 pounds; 1892, 1,944 tons, 118,252 pounds. Exports of Raw Wool, Ordinary, Unwashed (Tariff No. 131). COUNTRIES TO WHICH EXPORTED. 1 ceo 1889 1890 1891 1892 European frontier : Poods. 141, 167 140, 220 97, 644 Poods. 281, 010 173, 222 163, 557 700 1,613 46, 156 7, 143 1,240 Poods. 246, 463 104, 648 143, 778 25, 988 11, 901 39, 703 862 8, 504 1, 100 959 1,508 702 Poods. 510, 458 170, 345 78, 281 49, 242 18, 923 11, 595 8, 537 6,540 2, 704 2, 072 1, 099 Poods. 328, 126 90, 202 45, 819 12, 424 15, 155 4, 640 901 8, 041 1, 837 266 531 Turkey 7, 270 17, 646 5, 893 2, 516 Greece 713 623 Total Asiatic frontier: Trance 413, 355 3, 837, 123 675, 411 6, 403, 562 586, 205 4, 694, 119 859, 983 6, 837, 129 507, 942 4, 263, 904 135, 715 1, 853 145, 411 15, 771 133,970 16, 418 4, 991 9, 849 1, 882 4, 421 124, 815 69, 038 5,378 4, 543 1, 040 157, 197 14, 264 6, 237 161 692 455 Persia 15, 543 26, 073 United Kingdom 12, 858 3, 997 3, 060 Austria-Hungary 8 Total Value (rubles) 166, 851 1, 390, 184 210, 663 1, 452, 340 175, 056 1, 171, 975 205, 467 1, 404, 696 180, 555 1, 295, 969 *Her Britannic Majesty's Consul Report, April 15, 1893. 554 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Exports of Raw Wool, Ordinary, Washed (Tariff No. 132). COUNTRIES TO WHICH EXPORTED. 1888 1889 1890 1891 1892 European frontier : United. States Poods. 159, 145 Poods. 170, 866 19, 150 1,280 11, 240 4,767 6, 822 Poods. 133, 055 23, 150 2, 318 11 821 1, 341 18, 502 1,370 7,860 Poods. 82, 787 12, 740 4 550 4 354 3, 351 623 Poods. 182, 541 23, 523 1 884 1 425 13, 943 117 210 A n Qf.Tia.- Him crn t*t7 Italy Germany France 824 1, 100 10, 174 2, 199 8, 695 551 Turkey 2, 238 950 486 Total Value (rubles) 183, 791 2, 167, 270 218, 570 2, 371, 875 199, 444 1, 952, 191 109, 166 984, 050 223, 643 2, 032, 679 Exports of Raw Wool, Ordinary, Scoured (Tariff No. 133). COUNTRIES TO WHICH EXPORTED. 1888 1889 1890 1891 1892 European frontier : Poods 71, 175 1, 610 25, 127 Poods. 136, 407 Poods. 286, 818 Poods. 88, 272 22, 605 21, 621 15, 021 10, 178 8, 080 751 Poods. 83, 930 3, 982 26, 523 10, 479 1,870 8,341 908 . 11 791 Austria-Hungary 38, 654 19, 323 3, 546 4, 715 26, 951 19, 078 16,036 5, 941 4,641 1,578 1,569 4, 259 652 Total 110, 464 1, 155, 708 221, 417 2, 341, 690 338, 101 3,570, 210" 166, 553 1, 799, 132 137, 492 1, 703, 441 Exports of Raw Wool, Merino, Unwashed (Tariff No. 134). COUNTRIES TO WHICH EXPORTED. 1888 1889 1890 1891 1892 European frontier : Poods. 296, 182 Poods. 483, 210 1,158 Poods. 314, 369 11, 218 Poods. 301, 361 10, 895 7, 798 Poods. 126, 324 209 2, 045 1, 585 380 France 7 350 46, 463 2, 605 26, 348 118, 865 637 23, 589 7, 517 6, 719 6, 039 3, 124 967 6, 711 7, 371 345 Italy 9, 623 Total Value (rubles) 369, 331 4,247,514 637, 786 9, 204, 626 357, 087 3, 100, 632 337, 287 2, 606, 355 130, 888 866, 210 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL, Exports, Raw Wool, Merino, Washed (Tariff No. 135). 555 COUNTRIES TO WHICH EXPORTED. 1889 1890 1 «Q1 JLouL 18 757 243 190 1,031 13, 540 9, 300 650 Value (rubles) 9,342 212, 830 14, 573 365, 035 767 22, 710 503 13, 030 668 11, 950 Exports, Raw Wool, Merino, Scoured (Tariff No. 136). COUNTRIES TO WHICH EXPORTED. 1888 1889 1890 1891 1892 913 550 1,434 388 5, 241 3, 553 2, 418 5,440 1,190 196 Total 9,961 95, 602 550 11, 450 1, 822 33, 950 5, 241 80, 987 3, 749 72, 321 Exports of Hair, Camel, Unwashed (Tariff No. 137). COUNTRIES TO WHICH EXPORTED. 1888 1889 1890 1891 1892 United Kingdom 118, 924 322, 890 63, 446 231, 464 3,899 2, 732 1,216 157, 263 1, 610 1,351 1, 078 64 16, 808 Germany 1, 500 7,431 4, 676 6, 669 Turkey United States 2, 145 Total 120, 424 1, 024, 090 335, 289 2, 621, 070 72, 715 578, 972 239, 431 1, 148, 703 178, 241 1, 124, 605 Exports of Hair, Camel, Washed (Tariff No. 138). 1888 1889 1890 1891 1892 Total 166 3, 223 285 2, 800 5, 936 41, 559 Value Wool Raw, all other (Tariff No. 139). COUNTRIES TO WHICH EXPORTED. 1888 1889 1890 1891 1892 22, 600 7,102 28, 099 28, 900 41, 523 44, 030 38, 472 33, 920 12, 777 10, 617 1,458 16, 715 27, 944 Austria-Hungary 6, 292 9,409 8, 237 7, 571 2, 148 7,266 1, 943 Total Value (rubles) 56, 029 321, 680 70, 510 444, 220 101, 467 557, 198 107, 084 551, 558 61, 779 281, 624 556 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Wool Spun (Tariff No. 140). 1888 1889 1890 1891 1892 Total 696 15, 749 131 3,125 1,312 16,135 81 2, 042 99 3,412 Quantities and Values of Wool and Manufactures of Wool Imported into and Exported from Russia in Europe, 1866 to 1891. [One pood equals 36-0113 pounds. One silver rouble equals 58.2 cents.] YEABS. IMPORTS. EXPORTS. Wool, raw. Yalue of wool manufactures. Wool, raw. On q n "f ,i f i p q V Clix \XKj\j • On!iTit,i+i'pa U tX LI- 1)1 Uvo • V alues. Poods. Silver roubles. Silver roubles. Poods. Silver roubles. 1866 117, 399 5, 483, 534 4, 219, 915 1, 234, 451 15, 554, 084 1867 196, 823 8, 542, 695 6, 195, 822 762, 985 9, 613, 615 1868 138, 410 9, 759, 974 6, 133, 355 858, 170 11, 424, 978 1869 295, 311 11, 097, 046 9, 019, 556 924, 173 7, 667, 055 1870 349, 653 13, 08b, 02Z 8, 556, 684 89b, 282 7, 867, 015 1871 380, 411 13, 810, 629 10, 109, 705 974, 129 7, 625, 760 1872 382, 662 15, 161, 663 14, 199, 542 1, 199, 800 13, 995, 311 1873 470, 441 13, 282, 227 12, 752, 234 678, 183 7, 453, 992 1874 536, 057 16, 468, 323 13, 329, 492 1, 053, 936 11, 357, 254 1875 648, 532 19, 775, 260 16, 120, 057 879, 598 8, 648, 626 1876 443, 367 12, 724, 406 12, 635, 560 1, 179, 688 11, 954, 458 1877 355, 182 11, 526. 607 6, 536, 367 1, 339, 682 22, 374, 598 1878 794, 561 24, 087, 205 10, 536, 940 1, 093, 939 11, 961, 230 1879 979, 127 29, 694, 183 12, 321, 290 953, 468 10, 937, 206 1880 , 821, 754 24, 405, 000 12, 103, 000 1, 441, 466 13, 659, 000 1881 '. 747, 658 24, 052, 000 7, 711, 000 1, 015, 862 11,189, 400 1882 807, 916 28, 717, 000 8, 964, 000 1, 208, 984 12, 323, 000 1883 610, 000 22, 431, 000 6, 520, 090 1, 800, 000 17, 646, 000 1884 503, 000 18, 607, 000 5, 467, 000 1, 674, 000 15, 685, 000 1885 626, 000 21, 449, 000 4, 628, 000 1, 433, 000 12, 003, 000 1886 550, 000 18, 555, 000 3, 682, 000 2, 296, 000 20, 954, 000 1887 504, 000 23, 051, 000 2, 680, 000 1, 760, 000 15, 526, 000 1888 786, 000 24, 571, 000 2, 308, 000 1, 192, 000 12, 538, 000 1889 702, 000 20, 938, 000 3, 277, 000 2, 168, 000 23, 618, 000 1890 557, 000 20, 686, 000 3, 325, 000 1, 651, 000 14, 357, 000 1891 454, 000 15, 993, 000 3, 361, 000 1, 816, 000 13, 820, 000 SPAIN. In 1795 the total exports from Spain were valued at 480,000,000 reals vellon ($25,000,000), to which wool contributed 150,000,000 reals vellon. The imports of wool into the United Kingdom from Spain for the years 1831-1840 were:* YEAR. Pounds. YEAR. Pounds. 1831 3, 474, 823 2, 626, 624 3, 339, 150 2, 343, 915 1, 602, 752 1836 2, 818, 137 2, 244, 817 1,814,877 1 2, 409, 634 1, 266, 905 1832 1837 1833 1838 1834 1839 1835 1840 * McGregor 7 s Commercial Statistics, II, 1,034. SPAIN. IMPORTS AND EXPORTS OF RAW WOOL, 1874-1891. MILUON & -4 w 6 r f 7 -V 6 | - 4- r- ■1 -i \ — f- — l m t 1 T \ f t - 1 i / > 2 r \ r 1 Imports. Exports. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 557 In 1842 Spain sent to France 3,925,189 kilograms (8,635,416 pounds), and the value constituted more than one-fifth (22.4 per cent) of the value of the entire imports from Spain. Statistics of the export of wools to other countries are wanting, but at this time that commodity must have formed one of the leading staples if not the staple in the Spanish export trade. The tariff of 1841 specifically notices an element of com- petition for " Saxony wool, called "primas electoralis 79 was subjected to a duty of 40 reals vellon for every arroba imported, or about 8 cents a pound. Inl859 the exports of wool were returned at 159,917 arrobas* (4,055,493 pounds) showing a marked falling off in quantity. The exports since 1866 are given in the usual table. The destination of the exports of raw wools in the two years 1880 and 1891 are given in the following table. In the earlier years a distinction is made between common wool and fine or merino wool, a distinction not retained in the latter year. As showing the relative importance of the two kinds, I keep separate the earlier returns. WOOL IN THE GREASE. COUNTRY OF DESTINATION. 1* Common. *80 Fine or merino. 1891 Kilograms. 11, 419 10, 520 3, 385, 685 311, 737 2, 800 34, 658 914, 354 Kilograms. Kilograms. 340 12, 604 6, 166 41, 971 3, 437, 059 206, 876 Italy 67, 825 3, 578, 204 1, 201, 189 Total 4, 671, 173 1.60 1, 261, 930 2. 60 7, 290, 304 1. 70 WASHED WOOL. 17, 744 80, 552 183, 217 400 200 155, 776 188 840 2, 284 9, 900 92 102, 296 576 74, 592 26, 587 Italy Total 281, 913 3.1 26, 587 5 346, 741 4 If the returns of exports in 1795 are correct, wool gave more than 31 per cent of the value of all exports. In 1891 the value of raw wool rep- * Anuario Estadistico de Espana, I860, p. 323. 558 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. resented only 7,686,000 pesetas out of a total of 932.245,000 pesetas; less than 1 per cent. As already stated, it was in 1818 Spain lost its supremacy in the English wool markets, and this must have been the result of some decay in the Spanish trade, a natural consequence, per- haps, of Napoleon's wars. A decisive blow on the part of England must also have determined the decline of exports in that particular direction. Wool was admitted into England free of duty from 1787 to 1802, when a duty of 5s. 3d. per cwt. was imposed. In 1813 this duty was raised to 6s. Sd. per cwt., and in 1819 to 56s. per cwt., or about 12 cents a pound. This high rate of duty, 1 cent a pound higher than is collected on unwashed wools of the first class under the United States tariff law of 1890, was intended as a measure of protection, and must have seriously affected the imports of Spanish wool already falling away in the face of German competition. I am unable to find any estimate of the number of sheep and lambs in Spain. Quantities and Values of Wool and Manufactures of Wool Imported into and Exported from Spain, 1866 to 1891. [One kilogram equals 2*20462 pounds. One peseta equals 19.3 cents.] YEARS. IMPORTS. EXPORTS. Manufactures of wool. Wool. raw. Quantities. Yalues. Quantities. Values. Kilograms. Pesetas. Kilograms. Pesetas. 664, 000 6, 338, 000 2, 997, 000 2, 390, 000 659, 000 5, 694, 000 4, 132, 000 2, 230, 000 705, 000 5, 878, 000 2, 952, 000 1,527, 000 718, 000 13, 001, 000 3, 028, 000 3, 329, 000 948, 000 15, 063, 000 2, 515,000 6, 613, 000 L, 110, 000 15, 945, 000 5, 525, 000 10, 428, 000 800, 000 11, 429, 000 ! 4, 331, 000 8, 552, 000 582, 000 7, 799, 000 2, 672, 000 6, 182, 000 995, 000 10, 193, 000 1, 960, 000 3, 995, 000 794, 000 9, 948, 000 4,225,000 8, 141, 000 1, 363, 000 18, 938, 000 1, 851, 000 3, 466, 000 1, 521, 000 18, 965, 000 4, 044, 000 7, 529, 000 1, 833, 445 26, 536, 000 3, 581, 000 5, 917, 000 1, 810, 000 22, 812, 000 3, 840, 000 6, 548, 000 1, 818, 000 23, 197, 000 6, 242, 000 11, 762, 000 2, 081, 000 26, 454, 000 3, 877, 000 6, 472, 000 2, 262, 000 29, 831, 000 2, 677, 000 5, 903, 000 1883 2, 104, 000 27, 525, 000 3, 931, 000 8, 011, 000 1884 2, 353, 000 30, 844, 000 3, 637, 000 6, 581, 000 2, 355, 000 28, 934, 000 2, 720, 000 4, 625, 000 2, 310, 000 27, 606, 000 9, 205, 000 16, 095, 000 1887 2, 199, 000 24, 938, 000 8, 294, 000 14, 123, 000 1888 2, 184, 000 24, 711, 000 9, 353, 000 15, 580, 000 1889 2, 478, 000 29, 839, 000 8, 984, 000 15, 531, 000 1890 2, 141, 000 22, 449, 000 5, 341, 000 8, 611, 000 1891 2, 479, 000 26, 286, 000 4, 755, 000 7, 686, 000 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 559 SWEDEN. Quantities and Values of Wool and Manufactures of Wool imported into Sweden, 1873 to 1891. [One kilogram equals 2*20462 pounds. One krona equals 26-8 cents.] YEABS. WOOL, RAW. MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. Yarns. Other. Quantities. Values. Quantities. Values. Quantities. Values. Kilograms. Kronor. Kilograms. Kronor. Kilograms. Kronor. 1873 1, 691, 724 5, 969, 000 490, 803 4, 303, 000 1, 672, 545 16. 858, 000 1874 1, 579, 551 5, 573, 000 580, 118 3, 110, 000 2, 038, 938 20, 610, 000 1875 1, 394, 515 4, 592, 000 517, 776 3, 647, 000 1, 568, 548 15, 760, 000 1876 1, 861, 739 6, 569, 000 607, 264 3, 942, 000 1, 750, 746 17, 539, 000 1877 1, 848, 788 6, 876, 000 603, 196 3, 128, 000 1, 980, 543 19, 887, 000 1878 857, 170 2, 520, 000 489, 343 2, 597, 000 1, 360, 807 13, 655, 000 1879 911, 053 2, 679, 000 547, 194 2, 655, 000 1, 280, 993 12, 883, 000 1880 1, 286, 888 3, 784, 000 vvl) *JO\J 2 836 000 o 046 163 90 65*3 000 1881 1, 620, 327 4, 861, 000 635, 582 2, 463, 000 2, 163, 024 21, 093, 000 1882 1, 567, 946 4, 705, 000 801, 834 3, 084, 000 2, 088, 075 20, 277, 000 1883 1, 840, 733 5, 524, 000 918, 461 3, 423, 000 2, 383, 616 23, 196, 000 1884 2, 111, 675 6, 339, 000 1, 004, 000 3,661,000 2, 308, 615 22, 400, 000 1885 2, 073, 596 5, 711, 000 1, 312, 430 4, 762, 000 2, 277, 5C0 22, 053, 000 1886 1, 837, 883 5, 801, 000 1, 293, 769 4, 619, 000 2, 101, 631 20, 390, 000 1887 1, 965, 210 6, 202, 000 1, 210, 313 4, 267, 000 1, 930, 213 18, 730, 000 1888 2, 108, 834 6, 654, 000 1, 504, 644 5, 075, 000 2, 231, 734 21, 610, 000 1889 2,608,092 8, 221, 000 1, 793, 737 6, 412, 000 2, 684, 745 26, 046, 000 1890 2, 375, 131 7, 492, 000 1, 549, 253 5, 525, 000 2, 582, 799 25, 087, 000 1891 2, 103, 339 6, 326, 000 1, 410, 606 4, 818, 000 2, 461, 929 23, 936, 000 SWITZERLAND. IMPORTS. YEARS. WOOL. Raw and combed. Manufactures. Quantities. Values. Yams. Other. Quintals. Francs. Quintals. Francs. Quintals. Francs. 1885 30, 523 7, 396, 000 5,802 5, 630, 000 31, 044 42, 096, 000 1886 33, 163 11, 620, 000 6, 145 4, 885, 000 32, 484 39, 096, 000 1887 37, 789 10, 795, 000 5, 475 4, 159, 000 32, 528 39, 534, 000 1888 39, 174 11, 017, 000 6, 746 5, 373, 000 34, 891 39, 800, 000 1889 46, 772 14, 313, 000 6,748 5, 580, 000 36, 423 42, 001, 000 1890 46, 498 13, 850, 000 6, 358 5, 045, 000 36, 966 42, 948, 000 1891 42, 626 11, 351, 000 6,421 4, 635, 000 39, 446 42, 273, 000 EXPORTS. 1885 1886, 1887, 1888, 1889 1890 1891 10, 891 2, 064, 000 8, 295 7, 037, 000 2, 521 2, 417, 000 11, 498 2, 024, 000 9,340 7, 950, 000 2, 356 3, 587, 000 12, 152 2, 182, 000 9, 662 8, 537, 000 2, 925 4, 466, 000 12, 710 2, 247, 000 11,102 9, 252, 000 3, 678 4, 556, 000 12, 736 2, 512, 000 12, 030 10, 695, 000 4,382 6, 356, 000 10, 808 2, 425, 000 12, 379 10, 637, 000 4, 265 5, 660, 000 11, 454 2, 576, 000 10, 952 8, 907, 000 4, 379 6, 601, 000 560 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL, UNITED KINGDOM. Number of Sheep and Estimated Clip (a). ENGLAND ONLY. Authority. Number of sheep. Method of calculation. Weight of clip. Mr. Luccock, wool merchant (Leeds). Mr. James Hubbard and Sir George Goodwin (Leeds). 26, 148, 000 Long wooled 4, 153, 000 Short wooled 14, 854, 000 Total shorn 19,007,000 Add for sheep slaughtered, 1, 239, 000 and carrion (long wool), ditto (short wool) 4, 433, 000 Lambs 1,470,000 Pounds. 94, 377, 000 111, 161, 000 UNITED KINGDOM. Professor Low Mr. E. Baines, at British Association (Leeds). Mr. Archibald Hamil- ton, Statistical So- ciety's Journal, from Messrs. Hub- bard's tables. Earl Cathcart, in It. A. S. E. Journal from Messrs. Hubbards' tables. Mr. J. A. Clarke, " R. A. S. E. Journal," 1878, from Messrs. Hubbard's tables. Sir James Caird Helmuth Schwartze & Co.'s wool circu- lar. " Bradford Observer " wool tables. 35, 000, 000.. 34, 138, 000.. (all ages.) 22, 189, 184... (One year old and up- wards only considered.) 21,492,000. . . . (One year old and up- wards only considered.) 27,840,000... (In 1881.) Average weight per fleece, 4£ pounds Pounds. Sheep shorn, yielding . . . 124, 000, 000 Lambs shorn in certain counties 2, 470, 000 Skin and wool 33, 482, 000 Sheep in 1867-'69, weight of fleece worked out county by county, but only sheep actually shorn allowed for. Sheep in 1875-76, worked out as above ; average weight of fleece 5| pounds ; no allowance for lambs and slaugh- tered sheep. Estimate of shorn sheep: Average 1878-74 Average 1874- 79 Calculated on both sheep and lambs at fixed weights of fleece by coun- ties (average 5| pounds per fleece), and deduction made from total of 3 pounds per head on lambs of 1882 + aggregate decrease of sheep and lambs between 1881 and 1882, which is taken to represent the slaugh- tered sheep of the year. 157, 500, 000 b 175, 000, 000 159, 952, 000 124, 000, 000 119, 473, 000 136, 000, 000 157, 000, 000 155, 000, 000 129, 000, 000 a From a paper on the Statistics of Agricultural Production, by Maj . P. G. Craigie, Secretary of the Central Chamber of Agriculture, 1883. 615,000,000 pounds exported. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 561 Estimates of AYool grown ix the United Kingdom in 1893. [Bradford Observer.] Lincoln East Riding Yorkshire .. Nottingham Leicester Warwick Kent Huntingdon Rutland Northampton Oxford..., Gloucester Somerset Devon Cornwall Ireland Hereford Worcester Stafford Shropshire Bedford Berkshire Buckingham Cambridge Herts Norfolk Suffolk Essex Surrey Middlesex Sussex Hants Wilts Dorset Scotland Northumberland Cumberland Durham Westmoreland North Riding Yorkshire . West Riding Yorkshire. . Lancaster Derby Chester Monmouth Wales. Sheep and lambs in 1892 . Slaughtered Net clip of wool in 1893. Sheep and Weight Total. lambs. per fleece. Pounds. Pounds. 1,341, 672 12, 745, 884 493, 271 8 3, 946, 168 250, 712 1,880, 340 369, 141 7 2, 583, 987 337, 050 7 2. 359, 350 1, 027, 684 7 7, 193, 788 119. 229 7 834, 603 91, 281 7 638, 967 477, 770 6| 3, 224, 947 287, 884 61 1, 943, 217 408, 968 7 2, 862, 776 624, 448 7 4, 371, 136 995, 899 7 6, 971, 293 477, 551 7 3, 342, 857 4, 827, 702 6 28, 966, 212 360, 535 *f 2, 073, 069 208, 695 5| 1,199, 996 305, 198 $1 1, 754, 889 523, 689 6 3, 142, 134 130, 851 6 785, 106 244, 986 6 1,469, 916 243, 497 6 1, 460, 982 258, 574 6 1, 551,444 157, 220 6 943, 320 613, 418 6 3, 680, 508 474, 747 5 2, 373, 735 356, 977 1,606,396 87, 801 4 395, 104 44, 215 5 211, 075 515, 985 2,321,932 464, 904 2, 092, 068 626, 659 4* 2, 819, 965 431, 757 5 2, 158, 785 7, 513, 447 5 37,717, 235 1, 042, 093 6 6, 256, 158 561, 604 6 3, 369, 624 249, 212 6 1, 495, 272 373, 322 6 2, 239, 932 743, 955 6 4, 463, 730 746, 587 6 4, 4/9, m 348, 654 6 2, 091, 924 224, 668 6 1, 348, 008 115, 781 H 521, 014 235, 062 41 1, 057, 779 3, 197, 501 11, 191, 253 33, 562, 406 192, 137, 100 13, 841, 666 3 41, 524, 983 150, 612, 117 H. Mis. 94- -36 562 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. THE LONDON WOOL MARKET, 1887-1893. [From the animal circulars of Helmuth Scliwartze & Co.] London, January 11, 1887. The past year has witnessed such sudden, strong and contradictory fluctuations in the prices of wool as to give the course of the market an air of artificiality. Strong upward and downward movements are not foreign to the article, but when they have occurred the cause pro- ducing them has lain on the surface. The wave of prosperity that fol- lowed the war in 1870, or the excitement in Amercia 1879-'80, ade- quately explained in the one case the lasting, in the other the tempo- rary rise of wool and of many other commodities. In the present case such an obvious explanation is wanting. It is possible to follow the movements with reasons only for a short way, to argue that the low level of values had stimulated consumption, that the decline had gone too far and rendered a reaction legitimate, that the decrease in the Buenos Ayres clip reported in spring produced a strenthening and the war rumors and unexpectedly large supplies of colonial wool at the end of the year a Aveakening effect upon the market. But there is nothing in the proportion of supply and demand, which in its entirety was per- fectly normal, or in the condition of the industry, which from one end of the year to the other presented the same aspect of full, steady employment, to account for the alternate cold and hot fits to which the market has been subject. So little used was the trade to such trans- formations that the unexpected and, in its magnitude, unaccountable rise in the spring was in this country for some time regarded as the work of a foreign "ring." This view was not founded on fact, but it contained a germ of truth. There can be no doubt that speculation last year played a more prominent part than is commonly the case, not on the strength of the policy of a few individuals, but from a combi- nation of circumstances which rendered an article, not as a rule lend- ing itself easily to speculative handling, sensitive to even small influ- ences. Between the day's requirements of the consumption and the visible supplies in the market lie the more immediate supplies represented by the stocks in the hands of the trade ; stocks partly absolutely necessary, but partly speculative and elastic, large or small according to the amount of confidence entertained at the time by the owner. Even in individual cases the difference between the "large" and the "small" can be considerable; but where a whole trade is concerned, where it is swayed simultaneously in the same direction and from one extreme to the other, it may represent a rising or sinking of the demand of vast pro- portions. This is what happened last year. Owing to the continued downward course of the market, the trade in all its branches had come to learn that stocks meant losses, and had consequently reduced them to a minimum. The ordinary and healthy disposition, moreover, to resist TABLE SHEWING FLUCTUATIONS IN THE VALUE OF COLONIAL WOOLS DURING THE PAST 25 TEARS. WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 563 a rise and to see a source of profit in cheapness, had after the intermi- nable falls become completely reversed ; it was not cheaper wool that the trade wanted but dearer wool. When, therefore, on the report of a decrease in the Eiver Plate production some houses in France began to buy resolutely, this practical manifestation of confidence proved contagious. The movement was not resisted, but on the contrary hailed with universal satisfaction. Every one helped it on, speculation revived on a large scale, and the general replenishing of stocks which ensued produced apart from the actual consumption a wave of demand which carried all before it. Tbe advance reached lengths which rendered a reaction natural. Yet the extent of the latter, making all due allowance for the unexpectedly heavier supplies of the last series and the influence of the political apprehension, is in the face of an excellent business intelligible only on the ground of a sense ot bewilderment. All specu- lation collapsed, and though the bulk of the wools oifered in Decem- ber was sold, it passed into fewer hands, and the conspicuous absten- tion of many French buyers, by limiting the number of competitors, depressed the market beyond what seemed requisite. Though much of what was gained in summer has been lost again, the year must have enriched the trade generally. On a superficial view its results seem to teach that thorough-going confidence on the part of a few may achieve much, and movements to reproduce these experiences are being witnessed at this moment. But it is unlikely that last year's peculiar circumstances will recur, and if an improve- ment is carried it will probably be less by means of speculative action than on the more solid grounds of large consumption and moderate supplies. London, January 11, 1888. A review OF the YEAR. — In strong contrast to the violent fluctua- tions which had marked the preceding twelve months, the even course of 1887 appears singularly uneventful. The year began under dis- tinctly favorable auspices, and the thought that it might possibly have in store a repetition of the experiences of 1886 was probably present to not a few minds. The position of the article appeared so sound, the raw material had receded to so low a level, and the forthcoming supplies promised to be so well within the bounds of industrial requirements, that a renewed manifestation of elasticity would have had nothing unnatural in it. Any illusion on the point had, however, to be aban- doned, for though a rise in the first series seemed temporarily to support sanguine views, the smallness of the improvement and its undecided transient character showed its inherent weakness too clearly to allow" of any further expectations being based upon it. Still, and despite the adverse influence of ever-recurrent war apprehensions, a generally favorable opinion managed to maintain itself during the first three or 564 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. four months, and this part of the year must have yielded generally favorable results to the trade. After that confidence waned so dis- tinctly that whereas at the beginning of the year no solid ground had appeared why prices should not return to the high rates of the year before, the question which the trade asked itself in autumn was. What should prevent the market from falling to the lowest point of 1886? The moderate supplies of the raw material forbade an approach to that exceptional level, but yarns and goods came near it, rendering the posi- tion of manufacturers for a time very difficult. The last month of 1887 witnessed — partly in consequence of a rise in other articles of con- sumption — a return of confidence, greater activity in the trade and a moderate improvement in the prices of wool and woolen goods, which brought the former back to the opening level of the year, but left the latter still distinctly behind it. We thus have a twelvemonth of mostly indifferent and halting busi- ness, but with a good tone at both ends ; the opening tone good as an after effect of the experiences of the previous year, the closing good because of the contagious influence of a rise of articles quite uncon- nected with wool; at both ends also the same prices of the raw material, with a moderate depression — say of 5 to 10 per cent — in the middle, and a range of values low throughout. Considering the favorable con- ditions in which the trade was placed, and the evident signs of strength the article had revealed in the preceding year, the result seems disap- pointing; the more as the grounds on which better expectations had been built have proved sound in the main. As had been assumed, the stocks have shown themselves low, the rate of consumption large, the supply stationary. Whence, then, the indifferent result ? The answer must, we believe, be partly sought in the injurious influence of politics. Again and again have war rumors destroyed the reviving confidence, stifled all healthy speculation, and prevented the trade from stocking itself to a legitimate extent. But it must also probably be admitted that, as we pointed out in our last annual circular, a permanent return of the value of wool to former levels can not yet be expected, and that however low present prices may appear as compared with ten or fifteen years ago, they are but in harmony with the reduced value of most large articles of consumption. London, January 10 7 1889. The past year has been fairly satisfactory to both growers and manu- facturers. Its main feature is the absorption of a rather large increase in the supplies without difficulty, without accumulation of stocks and with no more than a very moderate, one may say legitimate, pressure upon prices. Throughout the year machinery has been well employed. A partial reduction of working hours was indeed reported from France, where the condition of the industry has given ground for complaint for WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 565 some time past. But taken as a whole the rate of consumption has been very large ; the trade has been much less disturbed by political apprehensions than in 1887 and has for the most part, we believe, worked at fairly remunerative rates. The increase in the colonies amounted to 10 per cent, and though the clip in the Eiver Plate States differed but little from that of 1887, the supplies that actually reached the hands of the trade were also about 10 per cent larger. This is a considerable surplus in one year. Yet it is easy to exaggerate its importance. A large expansion of the production is no longer the standing feature which it was in former years when the forward strides made annually were indeed incompara- bly greater and their lowering effect upon the value of wool unmis- takable. In recent times there has been no appreciable lowering of prices from this cause. The production still goes ahead, of course, but the increase is much smaller, less general, and more intermittent than formerly, a rapid growth in one season and one country being partly neutralized by a stationary or even receding supply in another season and another country. Hence the comparatively small pressure exer- cised upon values. The rate of consumption is fully abreast of the supplies, and an occasional strong increase is, as in the past year, cleared with ease. The low state of stocks in the hands of the trade is a feature which has been observed for some time, but which during the past year or two has come into view with increasing clearness. It is a fruit partly of a long period of declining prices which taught the trade to avoid stocks as an almost invariable source of losses, partly the result of the accel- erated means of transport and the quicker transmission of intelligence, which render large provisions practically unnecessary. The amount of the latter still varies, of course, in accordance with the more or less san- guine views held at the time, but, given the same degree of confidence, there is little doubt but that the industry is now stocked less than in former years. This is a new factor, which has to be borne in mind in every estimate of the market and its chances. In some measure it will cause prices to follow the changing conditions of supply and demand more closely and immediately ; but it may also in times of revival pro- duce precipitate action and undue excitement, as was the case in the summer of 1886. The present range of prices is often called low, and appears so on a comparison with former years; but the comparison is misleading. If the fall of wool to an altogether different level had been brought about by causes peculiar to itself, it might be treated as a fluctuation. But there has been no overproduction — if not only the supplies from beyond the seas, but the equally important European clips be considered — and there certainly has been no limitation in the range of purposes to which wool is applied. The causes which have lowered the value of wool are the same which have reduced the xnice of most large articles of con- 566 WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. sumption, and, whatever they be, their nature is not that of a passing influence, but bears a permanent character which nothing short of a complete revolution in the whole scale of values could change. It is a mistake, consequently, to use a standard of comparison which no longer exists. We think that in estimating the present position of prices we should go no further back than the year 1885, when the lowering influ- ences of which we have spoken may be said to have expended their force. Considerable fluctuations have taken place since 1885, so con- siderable as to probably mark the extreme of any likely changes both in an upward and in a downward direction. The present prices are equidistant from both the very low and the very high rates of 1886, and, judged thus, stand at a fair average point. London, January 1890. A review of the past year leaves an impression of great prosperity in all branches of the wool trade. Barely has there been a period marked by such an entire absence of complaints, or in which the satisfactory and profitable nature of the business has been so freely and generally acknowledged. While to the grower the range of prices has been such as to recall old times, the dealer has been favored by the continuous upward tendency of the market which in its turn again has in its advancing steps been generally so steady, circumspect, and moderate as to never impede the industry. Of the returning prosperity, visible in many commercial pursuits, the wool trade and all concerned in it have in fact had a full share. It is satisfactory to record that there is not the usual reverse of the medal to this favorable account, but that the condition of the industry is no less fundamentally sound than its activity is profitable. The year has not been wanting in tests on this point, the chief one being the increased supply from the colonies and the Eiver Plate States. It will be remembered that at both these sources the production in 1888 had shown a considerable surplus, no less in fact than 192,000 bales. 1889 brought a fresh increase of 138,000 bales, making 330,000 bales, or nearly 20 per cent, in the course of two years. With a less robust market the effect of this rapid growth would scarcely have failed to have shown itself, but as a matter of fact no feeling of pressure was experienced at any time of the year, and instead of weakness we have had, concurrent with increasing supplies, ascending prices. The truth is, the industry has lately grown quite as fast as the production, manu- facturers working to the full measure of their capacity and continually adding to their plant. The creation of new and the enlargement of old establishments on the Continent has been a conspicuous feature of the year. It is still going on, and the full effects of the demand it creates have still to be felt. Another point in favor of the soundness of business is the very mod- WOOL AND MANUFACTURES OF WOOL. 567 erate part played by speculation. Throughout the year the situation never looked other than promising, yet, with everything to stimulate them, speculators could never bring themselves to take any prominent share in the purchases, and the prices may be said to have always been determined in the most legitimate way by the bona fide consumer. In the November sales a wrong estimate of the requirements of the industry led to a temporary exaggerated rise which as soon as its unjustifiable nature was perceived was lost again. But the relapse which under more precarious circumstances would certainly have dis- concerted the market for some time had no lasting effect. Confidence was nowhere seriously shaken, and the situation was considered as healthy as before. In whatever way, in fact, the soundness of matters has been tried the test has always returned the true ring. The value of wool has gradually risen; it stands row nearly on a level with September, 1886 — a period looked upon as exceptionally high in these later years — and it bears comparison with former times. No special reason can be assigned for this recovery from among the circumstances surrounding the article. Neither has there been any new departure in the demand nor a falling off in the supplies. The improvement seems rather the outcome of an amelioration of trade in general. After long years of depression there is a reaction for the better. The times are more peaceful, there is more confidence, and while the necessaries of life remain cheap the consuming power of the masses has risen. Add to this the effects felt and still to come of last year's good harvests in this country, and the elements for a prosperous trade are given. What is noticeable in wool is that, without, as we have shown, any special reasons of its own, it has benefited by the gen- eral improvement more than other great articles of consumption. Its value, relatively, is high. This is worth bearing in inind, the sound X>osition of the article notwithstanding. London, January