.aaiK^gy; ■I III. ■ I ■ ■j ot^^ mjijtj^xKwiox.oxMX^'iXi'l ■ I I'l «■■! H"<'«lVTWirW,IJiJI.W. Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2011 with funding from Research Library, The Getty Research Institute http://www.archive.org/details/generalcollectioOOpink QLAa/z/j"^ ^^,AJU^4^j>/./ ^^^^/^;?;y. iJhr.it HffJ ,(^rmf .t Sr^wn.litt^n.\ip.es. This precious metal, which is, in other countries, the llandard or meafure of riches, is, in Peru, the riches of the coun- try, confidered in another light, I mean that of a natural commodity ; for, throughout the whole of that vaft country, there are almofl: every where filver mines to be met with, of more or lefs value, according as the ore produces more or lefs filver, and can be wrought at a greater or lefs expence. There are fome, but not a great many, mines to the northward of Lima ; but, to the fouth, they are very numerous. On the back of the Andes, there lies a nation of Indians, called los Plateros, or the Plate-men, from the vafl: quantities they poflefs of filver ; but the Spaniards have very little com- munication with them. The beft part of the mine countries are to the fouth of Cufco, from thence to Potofi, and fo to the frontiers of Chili ; and where, for the fpace of 300 miles, there is a continued fucceffion of mines, fome being difcovered, and others deferted, every day. It is a common thing for the people here, as well as elfewhere, to complain of the prefent times, and commend the paft, as if heretofore there were infinitely greater quantities of filver dug out of the mines than at prefent : and, perhaps, with regard to particular mines it may be fo ; but, upon the whole, doubtlefs the quantities of filver that are annually obtained in the Spanifti Weft Indies abundantly exceed what were for- merly exported from thence. As to the names of thofe, which have been moft remark- able, or are fo at prefent, in the country of Peru, they are thefe ; viz. the mines of Loxa and Camora, Cuenca, Puerto Veio, St. Juan del Oro : thefe are wrought at prefent. Thofe of Oruro and Titiri are neglefted. Thofe of Porco and Plata filled up. At Potofi there are a great number of mines. And thofe of Tomina, Chocaia, Atacuma, Xuxui, the Calchaques, Guafco, Iquique, &c. are all wrought with more or lefs profit ; and this according to the Ikill of their proprietors, or of fuch as have the direftion of thefe works. It is generally believed, and there feems to be fome reafon for it, that experience has taught the Creolians here a perfed acquaintance with mine- rals, and the art of treating them, fo as to obtain the largeft profit. But, however, when one confiders their ignorance in other arts, their going on conftantly in the fame beaten track in this, together with their vaft wafte of quickfilver, one is almoft tempted to believe, that our European miners might manage their works to ftill greater advan- tages. This feems the more probable, when one refleds, that this knowledge of theirs is not at all founded upon principles, but is, properly fpeaking, a.\\ art built upon acci- dental difcoveries, in which there is little of accuracy, and abundance of uncertainty; which will be more evident to the reader, when he has perufed and confidered the fol- lowing account of the manner in which the filver is txtraded from the ore at the mines. The moft perfeft filver that comes from thence, is in that form which the Spaniards call Pinnas, which is a lump of filver extremely porous, becaufe it is the remainder of a pafte, made of filver-duft and mercury ; and the latter being exhaled, leaves this remaird>;r of the mafs fpongy, full of holes, and light. It is this kind of filver that is put into different forms by the "merchants, in order to cheat the king of his duty, though that is but very moderate ; and therefore all filver in this condition, if found any where oa BETAGHS ACCOUNT OF PERU. 1^ on the road, or on board any fhip, is looked upon as contraband p;oods, and Is liable to feizure. In regard to the art of refining, therefore, I am to fhevv the progrefs of the ore from the mine to this kind of mafs or cake : after having broken the llone taken out of the vein of ore, they giind it in their mills vviih grind ftones, or in the Ingenios Raales, or royal engines, which confifl: of hammers- or pounders, like the French plafter-mills. They have generally a wheel of about twenty-five or thirty feet diameter, whofe long axle-tree is fet with fmooth triangles, which, as they turn, hook or lay hold of the iron hammers, lift them up to a certain height, from whence they drop at once at every turn ; they generally weigh about 200 weight, and fall fo violently, that they crufh and reduce the hardeft flones to powder by their weight alone. They after- wards fift that powder through iron or copper fieves, to take away the fineft, and return the reft to the mill. When the ore happens to be mixed with fome metals, which ob- flruft its falling to powder, as copper, then they calcine that in an oven, and pound k over again. In the little mines, where they ufc none but mills with grind-ftones, they, for the moft part, grind the ore with water, which makes a liquid mud, that runs into a receiver ; whereas, when it is ground dry, it muft be aherwards fteeped, and well moulded together with the feet for a long time. To this purpofe they make a court or floor, where they difpofe that mud in fquare parcels about a foot thick, each of them containing half a caxon or cheft, that is, twenty- five quintals, or 100 weight of ore j and thefe they call Cuerpos, that is, bodies. On each of them they throw about 200 weight of fea or common fait, more or lefs, according to the nature of the ore, which they mould, and incorporate with the earth for two or three days. Then they add to it a certain quantity of quickfilver, fqucezing a purfe made of a fkin, into which they put it, to make it fall in drops, with which they fprinkle the body or mafs equally, according to the nature and quality of the ore. They allow to each mafs ten, fifteen, or twenty pounds ; for, the richer it is, the more mercury it requires to draw to it the filver it contains : fo that they know not the quantity, but by long experience. An Indian is employed to mould one of thefe fquare parcels eight times a day, to the end that the mercury may incorporate with the filver. To that eft'ecl they often mix hme with it, when the ore happens to be greafy, where caution is to be ufed ; for they fay, it fometimes grows fo hot, that they neither find mercury nor filver in it ; which feems incredible. Sometimes they alfo ftrew among it fome lead or tin-ore, to facilitate the operation of the mercury, which is flower in very cold weather, than when it is tempe- rate ; for v/hich reafon at Potofi and Lipes, they are often obliged to mould the ore during a whole month, or a month and an half: but, in more temperate climates, the amalgama is made in eight or ten days. To facilitate the operation of the mercury, they in fome places, as at Puno and elfe- where, make their buiterons or floors on arches, under which they keep fires, to heat the powder of the ore, for twenty-four hours, on a pavement of bricks. When it is thought, that the inercury has attracted all the filver, the afiayer takes a little ore from each parcel apart, which he waflies in a little earthen plate, or wooden bowl ; and, by the colour of the mercury found at the bottom of the bowl, knows whether it has had its effeft : for, when it is blackifli, the ore is too much heated ; and then they add more fait, or fome other drug. They fay, that then the mercury difpara, that is, Ihoots or flies away. If the mepcury is white, they put a drop under the thumb, and, prefllng it haftily, the filver there is amongfl: it remains fticking to the thumb ; and the mercury flips away in little drops. In conclufion, when they perceive, that all the filver is gathered, they carry the ore to a bafon, into which a little fbeam of water runs, to waih. t6 BETAGH's ACCOUNX. of PERU. wafli it, mtich in the fame nature as I fhall (hew they wafh the gold, excepting that this being only a mud without ftones, inftead of an hook, to (lir it, an Indian ftirs it with his feet, to diflolve it. From the firft bafon it falls into a fecond, where another Indian is, who ftirs it again, to diffolve it thoroughly, and loofen the filver. From the fecond it pafles into a third, where the fame is repeated, to the end that what has not funk, to the bottom of the firll and fecond, may not efcape the third. When all has been waflied, and the water runs clear, they find at the bottom of the bafons, which are lined w ith leather, the mercury incorporated with the filver ; which they call lapella. It is put into a woollen bag, hanging up, for fome of the quicklilver to drain through. They bind, beat and prefs it as much as they cafl, laying a weight upon it, with flat pieces of wood; and, when they have got out as much as they can, they put the pafte into a mould of wooden planks, which, being bound together, gene- rally form the figure of an odtagon pyramid, cut fhort, the bottom whereof is a copper- plate, full of little holes. There they ftir, in order to fallen it ; and, when they defign to make many Pinnas, as they call them, that is, lumps of various weights, they divide them with little beds or layers of earth, which hinder their coming together. To that end the pella or mafs muftbe weighed, deducing two-thirds for the mercury that is in it ; and they know, within a fmall matter, what nett filver there i§. They then take oS the mould, and place the pinna or mafs, with its copper bafe, on a trivet, or fuch-like inflrument. Handing over a great earthen veflel full of water, and cover it with an earthen cap or covering, which they again cover with lighted coals ; which fire they feed for fome hours, that the mafs may grow violent hot, and the mercury that is in it evaporate in fmoke ; but that fmoke having no paflage out, it circulates in the hollow that is between the mafs and cap, or covering, till, coming down to the water that is underneath, it condenfes, and finks to the bottom again, converted into quickfilver. Thus, little of it is loll ; and the fame ferves feveral times : but the quantity mufl be increafed, becaufe it grows weak. However, they formerly confumed at Potofi 6 or 7000 quintals or hundred weight of quickfilver ever)' year, as Acofla writes ; by which a judgment may be made of the filver they got. When the mercury is evaporated, there remains nothing, but a fpongy lump of con- tiguous grains of filver, very light, and almofl mouldering, which the Spaniards call la Pinna ; and is, as I obferved, a contraband commodity from the mines, becaufe, by the laws of the kingdom, they are obliged to carry it to the king's receipt, or to the mint, to pay the fifth to his Majefty there. Thofe maffes are cafl into ingots, on which the arms of the crown are flamped, as alfo that of the place where they were cad, their weight and quality, with the finenels of the filver to infwer the meafure of all things, according to an antient philofopher. It is always certain, that the ingots, which have paid the fifth, have no fraud in them ; but it is not fo with the pinnas or mafles not cafl. 1 hofe who make them, often convey into the middle of them, iron, fand, and other things to increafe the weight ; fo that, in prudence, they ought to be opened, and made red-hot at the fire, for the more certainty ; for if falfified, the fire will either turn it black, or yellow, or melt it more eafily. This trial is alfo to extrad a moillure they contract in places where they are laid on purpofe to make them the heavien In fhort, their weight may be increafed one-third by dipping them in water when they are red-hot. as alfo by feparating the mercury, with which the bottom of the mafs is always more impregnated than the top. It alfo fometimes happens, that the fame mafs is of different finenefs. The flones taken from the mines, the ore, or, to fpeak in the lan- guage of Peru, the mineray, from which the filver is extraded, is not ahrays of the fame nature, confidence, or colour. There are fome white and grey, nuxed with red or Setagh's account or feru-. ijr er blulfli fpots, which is called plata blanca, or white filver. The mines of Lipes are mofl of theni of this fort. For the mofl; part there appear fome little grains of filver, and very often fmall branches extending along the layers of the ftone. There are fome, on the other hand, as black as the drofs of iron, in which the filver does not appear, called negrillo, that is, blackifli. Sometimes it is black with lead, for which reafon it is called plomo ronco, that is coarfe lead, in which the filver appears as if fcratched with fomething that is harfli ; and it is generally the richeft, and got with Icafl: charge, becaufe, inftead of moulding it with quickfilver, it is melted in furnaces, where the lead evaporates by dint of fire, and leaves the filver pure and clean. From that fort of mines the Indians drew their filver, becaufe, having no ufe of mer- cur)', as the Europeans have, -they only wrought thofe whofe ore would melt ; and, having but little wood, they heated their furnaces with ylo, and the dung of llamas, or flieep. and other beaft^, expofing them on the mountains, that the wind might keep the fire fierce. This is all the fecret the hiftorians of Peru fpeak of, as of fomething wonderful. There is another fort of ore like this, as black, and in which the filver does not appear at all ; on the contrary, if it be wetted, and rubbed againfl iron, it turns red ; for which reafon it is called roficler, fignifying the ruddinefs of the dawn of the day. This is very rich, and affords the fineft filver. There is fome that glitters like talc or ifinglafs ; this is generally naught, and yields little filver ; the name of it is Zoroche ; the peel, which is of a yellowifh red, is very foft, and broken inbits, but feldom rich ; and the mines of it are wrought on account of the eafinefs of getting the ore : there is fome green, not much harder than the laft, called cobriflb, or copperifli ; it is veiy rare : however, though the filver generally appears in it, and it is almoft mouldering, it is the hardefl; to be managed, that is, to have the filver extrafted from it ; fometimes, after being ground, it muft be burnt in the fire, and feveral other methods ufed to feparate it ; doubtlefs, becaufe it is mixed with copper. Laftly, there is another fort of very rare ore, which has been found at Potofi, only in the mine of Cotamifo, being threads of pure filver, intangled or wound up together like burnt lace, fo fine, that they call it arana, fpider, from its refemblance to a cobweb. The veins of mines, of what fort foever they be, are generally richer in the middle, than towards the edges ; and, when two veins happen to crofs one another, the place where they meet is always very rich. It is alfo obferved, that thofe which lie north and fouth, are richer than thofe which lie any other way. Thofe which are near places, where mills can be erected, and that are more commodioufly wrought, are often pre. ferable to the richer, that require more expence ; which is the reafon, that, at Lipes, and at Potofi, a chefh of ore muft yield ten marks, of eight ounces each mark, of filver, to pay the prime charges : and, at thofe of the province of 'J'arama, five pay them. When they are rich, and fink downwards, they are fubject to be flooded ; and then they muft have recourfe to pumps and machines, or elfe drain them by thofe they call cocabones, being paffages made in the fide of the mountain for the water to run out at; which often ruin the owners, by the exceffive expence they infenfibly draw^ them into. There are other ways of feparating the filver from the ftones that confine it, and from the other metals that are mixed with it, by fire, or flrong feparating waters, made ufe of at fome mines, where other means fail, and where they make a fort of ingots, which they call boUos ; but the moft general and ufeful method is to make pinnas or mafles, above mentioned, which are preferred to other forms, on account of their eafinefs in making, and that they fave fire, and other ingredients ; which is a thing of great confequence in works of this nature, v/here, to fave in ihe expence, has the fame effeft as finding the mine. VOL. xiv. x> It l8 BETAGH's account of PERU. It is very natural to fuppofe. that, in mines, as well as other things, there happen great variations in their produfts, and in the value of the product. The mines which very lately yielded moft filver, are thofe of Oruro, a little town eighty leagues from Arica. In the year 1712, one fo rich was found at Ollachea, near Cufco, that it yielded 2500 marks, of eight ounces each, out of every cheft, that is almolt one-fifth part of the ore ; but it has declined much, and is now reckoned but among the ordinary fort. Next to thefe are thofe at Lipes, which have had the fame fate. Laflly, thofe at Potofi yield but httle, and caufe a vafl expence by reafon of their great depth. But, notwithftanding the mines here are far diminifhed in their product, yet the quantity of ore that has been already wrought, and lain many years upon the furface, is thought capable to yield a fecond crop ; and, when I was at Lima, they were actually turning it up, and new-milling it, with great fuccefs ; which is a proof, that thefe minerals generate in the earth like all other inanimate things ; and it is likewife certain, from all accounts of the Spaniards, that gold and fdver, as well as other metals, are continually ^.^^ growing and forming themfelves in the earth. This opinion is verified by experience PVI in the mountain of Potofi, where feveral mines have fallen in, and buried the workmen, with their tools ; after fome years, they have dug the fame place, and difcovered many bones, and pieces of wood, with veins of filver actually running thi-ough them. Thefe mines belong to him who firft difcovers them : he immediately prefents a petition to the magiftrates to have fuch a piece of earth for his own ; which is no fooner done than granted : they meafure eighty Spanifli yards in length, and forty over, which is about 1200 foot in length, and 100 in breadth, and yield it to the difcoverer, who chufes what fpace he thinks fit, anrl does what he pleafes with it. Then they meafure juft the fame quantity for the king, which is fold to the beft bidder, there being many who are willing to purchafe a treafure which may prove ineftimable. If any other perfon has a mind to work part of the mine himfelf, he bargains with the proprietor for a particular vein. All that fuch an one digs out is his own, paying the king's duty, which is for gold a 2oth part, and for filver a 5th ; and fomg landlords find fuch an account in let- ting out their ground, and their mills, that they live upon the profit. At Copiapo there are gold mines juft beyond the town, and all about the country likewife, which have brought many purchafers and workmen thither, to the great damage of the Indians ; for the Spanifh magiftrates take away not only their lands, but their horfes, which they fell to the new proprietors, under pretence of ferving the king, and improving the fettlements : there is alfo a great deal of magnet and lapis lazuli, which the Indians know not the value of: and, fome leagues in the country, there is plenty of fait and faltpetre, which often lies an inch thick on the ground. About an hundred miles eaft, upon the Cordelier mountains, there is a vein of fulphur two feet wide, fo fine and pure, that it needs no cleaning. This part of the country is full of all forts of mines ; but, in other refpefts, is fo barren, that the natives fetch all their fubfiftence from Coquimbo, and that way, being a mere defert for 300 miles together ; and the earth abounds fo much with fait and fulphur, that the mules often perifh for want of grafs and fweet water. There is but one river in 200 miles, which the Indians call Ancalulae, or Hypocrite, becaufe it runs only from fun-rife to fun-fet : this is occafioned from the great quantity of fnow melted from the Cordeliers in the day-time, which freezes again at night, where the cold is often fo great the people's features are quite diftorted. Hence Chili takes its name, Chile fignifying cold in the Indian lan- guage ; and we are certainly inforaied by the Spanifli hiftorians, that fome of their countrymen, and others, who firft traded this way, died ftift' with cold upon their mules J for which reafon the road is now always lower towards the coaft. 9 The BETAGM S ACCOUNT OF PERU. 19 M The mine countries are all fo cold and barren, that the inhabitants get moft of their provifion from the coaft ; this is caufed by the falts and fulphurs exhaled from the earth, which deftroy the feed of all vegetables. The Spaniards who live thereabout, find them fo ftifling, that they drink often of the mattea, to moiften their mouths. The mules, that trip it nimbly over the mountains, are forced to walk gently about the mines, and ftop often, to fetch breath. If thefe vapours are fo ftrong without, what mufl: they be within the mine itfelf, where if a frefli man goes, he is fuddenly benumbed with pain ? And this is the cafe of many an one ; but this diftemper feldom lafts above a day, and they are not fo affected a fecond time ; but vapours have often burft out fo furioufly, that workmen have been killed on the fpot, fo that one way or other multi- tudes of Indians die in their calling. An obfervation occurs here to my memory, that upon the road to Piura, at night, when we lay down to fleep, our mules went eagerly to fearch for a certain root, not unlike a parfnip, though much bigger, which affords a great deal of juice, and, in fuch a fandy plain, often ferves inftead of water: but when the mules are very thirfty, and they cannot eafily rake up the root with their feet, they will (land over it and bray, till the Indians come to their afliftance. One would wonder, that, throughout all this part of the world, that portion of the country fliould be befl inhabited which Is moft barren and unwholfome, while thofe fpots, that feem to vie with Paradife itfelf for beauty and fertility, are but thinly peopled. Yet, when one confiders, that it is not the love of eafe, but the thirft of wealth, that draws people hither, the difficulty is veiy eafily refolved ; and we fee at once, how much the hopes of living rich, gets the better of the hopes of living ; as if the fole end, for which a man was created, was to acquire wealth, at the expence of health and happinefs. It is generally undtrftood, that filver is the peculiar wealth of Peru ; and the Spa- niards ufually talk, as to gold mines, of thofe that are to be found in Chili ; but, not- withftanding this, there are one or two wafhing-places for gold in the fouth part of Peru, near the frontiers of Chili. About the year 1709, there were two furprifing large lumps of virgin gold found in one of thefe places, one of which weighed thirty- two pounds complete, and was purchafed by the Count de Monclod, then viceroy of Peru, and prefented to the king of Spain ; the other was fhaped fomewhat hke an oxjs heart ; it weighed twenty-two pounds and an half, and was bought by the corregidor of Arica. To find thefe lavadores, or wafhing-places, they dig in the corners of a little brook, where, by certain tokens, they judge the grains of gold to lie. To alfift in carrying away the mud, they let a frefh ftream into it, and keep turning it up, that the current may fend it along. When they are come to the golden fand, they turn off the ftream another way, and dig with mattocks ; and this earth they carry upon mules to certain bafons, joined together by fmall channels ; into thefe they let a fmart ftream of water, to loofen the earth, and carry all the grofs part away. The Indians ftanding in the bafons, and throwing out all the ftones, the gold at bottom is ftill mixed with a black fand, and hardly to be feen, till it be farther cleared and feparated, which is eafdy done. But thefe wafhing-places differ ; for, in fome, there are gold grains as big as bird-fhot ; and in one, belonging to the priefts near Valparaifo, fome were found, fi-om two or three ounces to a pound and an half weight. This way of getting gold is much better than from the mines ; here is no need of iron crows, mills, or quickfilver j fo that both the trouble and expence are much lefs. The Creolians are not fo curioUs in wafhing then- gold, as the people in Europe ; but great plenty makes them carelefs in that and many other articles. It would be needlefs to attempt in this place a defcription of the large kingdom of Chili, becaufe it has been already done by many authors : all that is defigned here, is D 3 to 20 BETAGh's account of PERU. to give fuch a reprefentalion of it, as may enable the reader to comprehend the nature of its trade, the manner in which it is connected with the general commerce of Peru, by which the weahh drawn from it is tranfmitted to Europe. It is in length, from norih to fouth, about 1200 miles, the breadth of it very uncertain; the air is very temperate and wholefome, unlefs rendered otherwife by peitilential exhalations, that are moil common after earthquakes, to which this country is very fubject. The winter rains, during the months of May, June, July, and Auguft, are excelTively heavy ; but then, for eight months together, they have, generally fpeaking, fine weather. The foil is prodigioufly fertile, where it admits of cultivation ; fuch fruit trees as are carried thither from Europe, come to the greatefl perfedion ; fo that the Iruit is coming for- ward all the year ; and it is common to fee apple-trees in that fituation, which we fo much admire in orange-trees; that is to fay, with blolToms, apples juft formed, green apples, and ripe fruit all at the fame time. The valleys, wherever they have any moillure, wear a perpetual verdure ; and the hills are covered with odoriferous herbs, very ufeful in phyfic. There are trees of all forts, and fit for every kind of ufe ; info- much that, independent of its gold mines. Chili might be well accounted one of the richeft and finefl: countries in the univerfe. And, indeed, there are fome places in it, which are as beautiful as any thing the warmefl imagination can painf: for inftance, the town of Coquimbo, in lat. 30° fouth, a (hort mile from tl>e fea, (landing on a green rifing ground, about ten yards high, which nature has regularly formed like a terrace, north and fouth, in a direct line, of more than half a mile, turning at each fide to the eaftward. The firfl; ftreet makes a delightful walk, having the profpedt of the country round it, and the bay before it ; all this is fweetly placed in a valley ever green, and watered with a river ; which, taking its rife from among the mountains, flows through the vales and meadows, in a winding ftream, to the fea. But notwithflanding all thefe advantages, this vaft country is very thinly inhabited ; infomuch that, through its whole extent, there are fcarce five towns that deferve that appellation, and but one city, which is that of St. lago ; throughout all the reft there are only farms, which they call Eftancias, fo remote from one another, that the whole country, as I have been informed from good hands, cannot raife 20,000 whites fit to bear arms, and particularly St. lago 2,000 ; the reft are all meftizos, mulattos, and Indians, whofe number may be three times as great, without including the friendly Indians beyond the river Bio-bio, who are reckoned to amount to 15,000, whofe fide- lity, however, is not much to be depended on. The trade of this country is chiefly carried on by fea, and is at prefent rather in a declining than flourilhing condition. The port of Baldivia was formerly very famous, on account of the very rich mines of gold that were in its neighbourhood, which are now, in a great meafure, difufed ; fo that it is only kept as a garrifon, and ferves in this refpeft to Peru, as the fortrelTes on the Barbary coaft do to Spain, viz. to receive malefactors, who are fent thither to ferve againft the Indians. All the trade of that town confills in fending ten or twelve ftiips a-year to Peru, laden with hides, tanned leather, fait meat, corn, and other provifions, which are to be had here in great plenty. The port of Conception is more confiderable, by reafon of their commerce with the Indians, which are not fubjeft to the Crown of Spain. Thefe Indians are of a copper colour, have large limbs, broad faces., and coarfe lank hair. The nation of the Puclches differ fomewhat from the reft, becaufe amongft them there are fome pretty white, and who have a little colour in their cheeks, which is fuppofed to be owing to their having fome European blood in their veins, ever fince the natives of this country revolted from the Spaniards, and cut oft' nioft of their garrifons. They prcferved the women, and 4 efpecially BETAGH's account of PERU. 21 efpecially the nuns, with whom they cohabited, and had many children, who have a fort of natural affe£tion for their mothers country ; and, though they are too proud to fubmit to the Spaniards, yet they are not willing to hurt them. Thefe people inhabit that ridge of the mountains which the Spaniards call La Cordilera ; and, as the manner of trading with them is very fmgular, it may not be amifs to give an account of it. When the Spanilh pedlar, or walking merchant, makes a tour into this country, he goes direftly to the cacique, or chief, and prefents himfelf before him without fpeaking a word : the cacique breaks filence firft ; and fays to the merchant. Are you come ? Then he anfwering, I am come. What have you brought me ? replies the cacique. I bring you, rejoins the Spaniard, wine (a neceflary article !) and fuch a thing. Where- upon the cacique fails not to fay. You are welcome. He appoints him a lodging near his own cottage, where his wives and children, bidding him welcome, each of them alfo demand a prefent, which he gives, though never fo finall : at the fame time the cacique, with the horn-trumpet which he has by him, gives notice to his fcattered fub- jedts of the arrival of a merchant, with whom they may trade : they come and fee the commodities, which are knives and axes, combs, needles, thread, looking-glafles, ribbands, &c. The bed of all would be wine, were it not dangerous to fupply them therewith, to make them drunk ; for then they are not fafe among them, becaufe they are apt to kill one another. When they have agreed upon the barter, they carry the things home without paying ; fo that the merchant delivers all without knowing to •whom, or feeing any of his debtors : in fhort, when he defigns to go away, the cacique orders payment by founding the horn again ; then every man honeftly brings the cattle he owes ; and, becaufe thefe confifl of mules, goats, and efpecially oxen and cows, he commands a fiiilicient number of men to conduft them to the Spanifh frontiers. By what has been faid may be obferved, that as much civility and honefly is to be found among thefe people, whom we call favages, as among the moft polite and well-governed nations. That great number of bullocks and cows, which are confumed in Chili, where abun- dance are flaughtered every year, comes from the plains of Paraguay, which are covered with them. The Puelches bring them through the plain of Tapapapa, inhabited by the Pteheingues, or unconqucred Indians, being the beft pafs to crofs the mountains, becaufe divided into two hills, of lefs (.-ifficult accefs than the others, which are almoft impaffable for mules. There is another eighty leagues from La Conception, at the burning mountain, called Silla Velluda, vhich now and then cafts out fire, and fome- times with fo great a noife, that it is he ;rd in the city ; that way the journey is very much fhortened, and they go in fix weeks to Buenos Ayres. By thefe communications, they generally make good all the herds of oeeves and goats, which they flaughter in Chili by thoufands, for tallow and lard, mad r by trying up the fat and the marrov/ of the bones, which, throughout all South A nerica lerves inllead of butter or oil, not ufed by them in their fauces : the flefli they cither dry in the fun, or in the fm.oke, to preferve it inflead of falting as is ufed in France. Thefe Haughters alfo afford the hides, and efpecially the goats-fkins, which they drefs like Morocco leather, by them called Cordo- vanes, and fent to Peru to make fhoes, or for other ules. Befides the trade of hides, tallow, and fait meat, the inhabitants of La Conception deal in corn, with which they, every year, lade eight or ten fhips, of forty or fifty tons burdeh, for the port of Calao ;, befides the meal and bifcuit they fupply the French fhips with, that take in provifions there to proceed to Peru, and to return to France. All this would be inconfiderable for fo fine a country, fince, if the land were well improved, it is fo extraordinary fertile, and fo eafy to till, that they only fcratch it with the plough for the moft part, made 22 B£TAGH's account OF PERU. of one fingle crooked branch of a tree, drawn by two oxen ; and, though the grain is fcarce covered, it feldoin produces lefs than an hundredfold : nor do they take any more pains in procuring their vines to have good wine ; but, as they know not how to glaze the jars they put it into, they are fain to pitch them, which, together with the talte of the goats-ikins, in which they carry it about, gives it a bittemefs like treacle, and a fcent, to which it is hard for ftrangers to accuflom themfelves. The fruit grows after the fame manner, without any induftry, on their part, in grafting : apples and pears grow naturally in the woods ; and, confidering the quantity there is of them, it is hard to comprehend how thefe trees, fince the conqueft, could multiply, and be difFufed into fo many parts, if it is true there were none before, as they affirm. The mines of Quilogoya and Quilacura lie within four leagues of this port, and afford vaft quantities of gold y and the Eftancia de Rel, or King's Farm, which is alfo at no great diftance, is by very far the moft plentiful Lavadero, or wafliing-place, in all Chili, where there are fomeiimes found lumps of pure gold of a prodigious fize. The mountains of La Cordillera are reported to be a continual chain of mines, for many hundred miles to- gether ; which is fo much the more probable, becaufe, hitherto, fcarce any of thefe mountains have been opened, but vaft quantities of metals have been found in them, particularly copper, remarkably fine, of which all the artillery in the Spanifli Weft Indies, or at leafi in the South Seas, are caft. There is another confiderable port in Chili, and indeed, the moft confiderable of them all, which is that of Valparaifo, which is efteemed one of the beft harbours in the South Seas. It lies upon a river, fifteen leagues below St. lago, the capital of Chili. To this port all the riches of the gold mines behind it, and on every fide, are brought, particularly from thofe of Tiltil, which are immenfely rich, and lie between this port and the city of St. lago. The gold here is found in a very hard fione, fome of which fparkles, and betrays the inclofed treafure to the eye ; but moft of it has not the leaft fign of gold, but appears to be an hard harlh kind of ftone, of very different colours, fome white, fome red, fome black. This ore, broken to pieces, is ground in a mill, by the help of water, into a grofs powder, with which quickfilver is afterwards mixed : to this pafte they let in a fharp ftream of water ; which having reduced it to a kind of mud, the earthy particles are carried off by the current, and the gold and quickfilver precipitated, by their own weight, to the bottom : when this mud has fettled a little into a fort of pafte, they put it into a linen bag j ftrain it very hard, by which opera- tion the mercuiy is driven out, or at leaft the greateft part of it ; and the remainder they evaporate by the help of fire ; fo that they have all the gold together in a little wedge, like a pine-apple, and thence it derives its name of Pinna. In order to clear the gold from the filver it is firft impregnated with, the lump muft be run ; and then they know the exad weight, and the true finenefs ; it is not done any otherwife there. The weightinefs of the gold, and the facility of its making amalgama, or pafte, with the mercury, make the drofs immediately part from it : this is an advantage the gold- miners have over thofe of filver ; they every day know what they get ; whereas the others fometimes do not know it till two months after, as has been faid in another place. According to the nature of the mines, and the richnefs of the veins, every caxon, or fifty quintals, that is, hundred weight, yields four, five, or fix ounces : when it yields but two, the miner does not make good his chaige, which often happens; but he has alfo fometimes good amends made him, when he meets with good vdns ; for the gold mines are, of all mines, thofe which produce metals the moft unequally. They follow a vein, which grows wider, then narrower, and fometimes feeiilB to be loft in a fmall fpace of ground. This fport of nature makes the miners live in hopes of finding what BETAGH S ACCOUNT OF PERU. 23 what they call the purfe, being the ends of veins, fo rich, that they have fometimes made a man wealthy at once : and this fame inequality fometimes ruins them ; which is the reafon, that it is more rare to fee a gold-miner rich than a filver-miner, or of any other metal, though there be lefs expence in drawing it from the mineral as fhall be faid hereafter. For this reafon, alfo, the miners have particular privileges ; for they cannot be fued to execution on civil accounts j and gold pays only a twentieth part to the king, which is call CoVo, from the name of a private perfon, to whom the king made the grant, becaufe they ufed before to pay the fifth, as they do of filver. On the defcent of this mountain, there runs, during the winter, or rather during the rainy feafon, a pretty brifk ftream of water, which, pafTmg through the gold ore, waflies away abundance of that rich metal, as it ripens and breaks from its bed : and therefore, for about four months in the year, this is accounted one of the richeft la- vaderos in Chili ; and very well it may, fmce there are fometimes found pellets of pure gold, of the wtight of an ounce. At Palma, which is but four leagues from Valparaifo, there is another rich lavadero ; and every where throughout the country, the fall of a brook, or rivulet, is attended more or lefs with thefe kind of golden fhowers, the richeft of which fall into the laps of the Jefuits, who farm or purchafe abundance of mines and lavaderos, which are wrought for their benefit by their fervants. The foil about this port is exceffive rich and fruitful ; fo that forty fhips a year go from hence to Lima, laden with corn ; and, notwithftanding their prodigious exportation, that commodity is fo cheap here, where money at the fame time is fo plenty, that an Englifh bufhel may be bought for lefs than three {hillings; and it would be much cheaper ftill, if all the country could be cultivated ; but, as they have dry weather for eight months together, this is impoffible, except where there are brooks or little rills running from the mountains through the vales. But before we clofe this fubject, it may not be amifs to obferve, that there is a great trade carried on through all Chili, from the North Seas, by the way of Buenos Ayres, by which they receive fome European goods, and a very large balance of filver in re- turn for their commodities. This is, perhaps, the greatell inland commerce in the world; for the road, from Buenos Ayres to Potofi, is 1500 miles; a.nd, though the diftance from Valparaifo be not above 1 60 leagues more, yet it is crofTed with greater difficulty than all the reft ; becaufe they are obliged to pafs that chain of mountains fo often mentioned, called by the Spaniards La Cordillera, which paffage can be attempted only during the three firft months in the year, when the paflages are open, and the merchants come from Mendoza, which is an inland town, about 300 leagues from Buenos Ayres to the city of St. lago, which lies at the opening of the paffes from the Cordilleras. This journey through the mountains takes up fix or feveu days, though not above fixty leagues ; and the paffengers are obliged to carry with them not only provifions for themfelves and their attendants, but provender like wife for their mules, the whole road being a continual track of rocks and precipices, ar.d the country round about fo exceffively barren, and withal fo expofed to fnovvs in the winter, that there is no living in it. The journey, however, from St. lago to the mines, and from thence to Valparaifo, is equally fafe and pleafant ; and the merchants have nothing to trouble them, but the fear of ftaying too long, and lofing their paffage home through the mountains ; in cafe of which they muft be obliged to ftay at leaft nine months longer than they intended. The reader will obferve, that this journey, from Buenbs A.yres to Valparaifo, is diredly athwart the whole continent of South America ; which is a clear 24 BETAGH's account op PERU. clear proof of the mighty extent of the Spaniih empire, which reaches here from fea to fea. On the whole, though a very great part of the country be abfolutely dcfert ; and, in fome places wikere it is inhabited, the people do not acquire great fortunes ; yet, unqueftionably, the Spaniards fettled in Chili acquire annually immenfe riches ; fmce, as we obferved before, the country is very thinly peopled, and all the gold that is drawn from the mines, or lavadores, muft be divided amongil them. Yet it is agreed, that a great part of the inhabitants do not feem to abound in wealth; which, however, may be very well accounted for, if we confider, that fuch as deal in cattle, corn, and the other product of the country, acquire but moderate fortunes ; and fuch as are concerned in mines are frequently ruined, by launching into too great ex- pences about them. But, after all, fuch as are eafy in their circumftances, and, in confequence of that eafe, retire to St. lago, live in fuch a manner, as fufficiently de- monftrates the riches of ChiU, fince all their utenfils, even thofe that are moil common, are of pure gold ; and it is believed that the wealth of that city alone cannot fall (hort of 20,000,000. Add to this, that the gold mines are continually increafzng, and it is only for want of hands that they are not wrought to infinitely more advantage, thofe already difcovered, and neglected, being fufficient to employ 40,000 men. It may be likewife obferved, that the frauds pradifed Air deceiving the King increafe daily; and, as they meafure the riches of the Spaniih Weft Indies by the ftandard of the King's revenue, this mufl: iiecefiarily make them appear poorer than they really are. We have an inftance of this in the mines of Potofi, which are faid to yield lefs filver than they did formerly ; yet, on a computation for fifty years, the King's annual revenue from thofe mines has amounted to 220,000 pefos of thirteen rials and a quarter each ; which fhewsthat the annual produce of thefe mines, for which the legal duty is paid, amounts nearly to 2,000,000 pieces of eight per annum; and we may boldly aflert, that the King does not receive above half of what is due : and from this example we may judge of the reft. As the policy of the Spaniards confifts chiefly in endeavouring, by all ways and means poflible, to reflrain the vaft riches of thofe extenfive dominions from paffing into other hands, fo the knowledge that other nations have of the mighty wealth of thefe countries, on the one hand, and of the great demand for European manufadures among their inhabitants, on the other, has excited almoft ever nation in Europe to pradife all methods poffible, in order to gain a fhare in them ; and this with fo good cffett, that it is very doubtful, whether any confiderable part of the riches in the Weft Indies centers among the inhabitants of Old Spain. This will appear very plainly to the reader, if he confiders that, in the nrft place, the very trade carried on from Spain is of much greater confequence to foreigners, than to the Spaniards themfelves ; for, as there are few commodities, and fcarce any manufactures in that country, the Spanifii merchants at Cadiz make up their cargoes out of what they purchafe from other coun- tries ; or rather, the merchants at Cadiz are barely faftors for the Englifti, French, and Dutch, whofe goods they fend to America, and pay them out of the returns made by the plate fleets. We are likewife to confider, that Spain itfelf is a country very ill pro- tided with fome of the neceifaries and moft of the conveniences, of life ; fo that pro- digious fums of money are annually exported to obtain thefe. But, befides fuch drawbacks as thofe we have mentioned, to which the Spaniards would willingly fubmit, there are many others, which they are forced to endure : for inftance, all the negroes they employ in their plantations, where every kind of labour is done by thefe fort of people^ all thefe negroes,- 1 fay, are purchafed from foreigners, particularly betagh's account of PERU. 45- pafticularly the Englidi and Dutch, at a very large expence every ye?.r. Add to this, that, under pretence of furnifhing them with negroes, there is a clandefline trade con- tinually carried on fionione endto the other of their coaft, upon the North Sea. But, in the South Seas, they were pretty fafe from every thing, but the depredations of pirates, till the lafl general \\:?-'r on ai ';ount of the fucccflion to the crown of Spain ; which created a new kind of contrabaud trade, unknown to former times, I mean, that of the French interlopers, who carried vaft quantities of goods directly from Europe, into the South Seas, which, till then, fcarce any other nation had attempted. This was always looked upon with an evil eye by the court of Madrid, as being direftly repug nant to the intereft of Spain, and the maxims of their government ; but, as there were many circumftances at that time which rendered this a kind of !\ectflary evil, the Spaniards were forced to fubmit to it, I mean by Spaniards the inhabitants of Old Spain ; for, as to the Creolians, if they had European goods, and at a cheaper rate, it would nor give them much concern who took their money for them. The hiftory of thefe French inter- lopers is, in itfelf, fo important as well as curious, and is, at the fame time, fo very little known in England, that there is good reafon to believe it will prove acceptable, and be well received ; the rather becaufe it is compofedof fuch remarks, as fell immediately within my own fphere of obfervatioii, and as to the truth of which I am myfelf a compe- tent witnefs : fo that every thing may be taken for certain, that I advance. I may have leave alfo to put the reader in mind, that, having a great intimacy with moft of the officers I mention, this enabled me to come at many particulars, which another man, in my fituation, would have been abfolutely unacquainted with. But to come to matters of faft : The town of St, Malo has always been noted for good privateers : they annoyed the Englifli and Dutch very much in their trade during the whole reign of King William, and part of Queen Anne ; and though fome religious-headed people fancy, that money got by privateering will not profper, yet I may venture to fay, the St. Malo- men arc as rich and flourifhing as any people in France. It has thriven fo well with them, that all their South Sea trade is owing to their privateering ; and, in the late war, they were fo generous, that they made feveral free gifts to Lewis XIV. And though our Englifh admiralty always kept a flout fquadron cruifmg in the Atlantic Ocean, yet we never took one of their South Sea-men : and my reafon for it is Jhis; they kept their fhips extremely clean, having ports to careen at, which we did not think of; for, in the year 1709, when I belonged to Her Majcfty's fhip the Loo, being one of the convoys that year to Newfoundland, we faw upon the coafl a fifty-gun fliip, which we chafed, and foon difcovered fhe was French built ; but fhe crowded fail, and left us in a very little time. She had jufl been cleaned at Placentia: and we m.ight well wonder to find fuch a fhip in that part of the world ; but were afterwards informed by the French prifoners, that {lie was a Frenchman, and bound to St. Malo, with two or three millions of dollars aboard; and was then fo trim, that fhe trufted to her heels, and valued nobody. By their going fo far to weftward, and northward withal, they had the advantage of weflerly v/inds, which feldom failed of fending them into foundings at one fpirt, if not quite home. But fince Placentia has been yielded to Great Britain, they now make ufe of St. Catherina, the ifland Grande on the coaft of Brafil, and Martinico in the Weft Indies. This trade fucceeded fo well, that they all fell into it, fending every year to the Rumber of twenty fail of fhips. I faw myfelf eleven fail together on the coaft of Chili in the year 1721, among which were feveral of fifty guns, and one that could mount feventy, called the Flower-de-Luce, formerly a man of war. This being contrary VOL. XIV. £ to 26 BETAGH's account of PERU. to the Affiento treaty between Spain and Great Britain, memorials were frequently prefented at Madrid ; and the king of Spain, willing to keep his engagements with England, refolved to gratify the Britifh court, by deftroying the French trade to the South Sea. His Catholic Majefty knew there was no way to do this, but by a fquadron of men of war ; he knew alfo, that few of his own fubjedts were acquainted with the navigation of Cape Horn, or could bear the extreme rigour of the climate ; therefore was obliged to make ufe of foreigners for this expedition ; and three of the four Ihips that he fent, were not only manned with, but commanded by Frenchmen. The firft was the Gloucefter, of fifty guns and 400 men, formerly an Englifh man of war ; the ■fecond was the Ruby, fifty guns, 350 men, another Englifh Ihip ; the third was a frigate of forty guns, and 200 men ; the fourth v/as the Leon Franco, a Spani/h man of war, of fixty guns, and 450 men, all Spaniards. Monfieur Martinet, a French gentleman, was commodore of this fquadron, and commanded the Pembroke ; M. le Jonquiere had the Ruby ; the reft I do not recoiled:. The French performed their navigation well enough, and got round the Cape, though it was in the middle of winter; but the laft of the four, manned by the Spaniards, after feveral attempts, could not v/eather Cape Horn, but was forced back to the river of Plate, where, at laft, the Ihip was unfortunately caft away. It looks as if, by this expedition, an experiment was made to fee if the Spaniards were hardy enough to go through this terrible navigation; but, as they have httle or no trade into any cold climates, and unufed to hard work, it is no wonder they failed in that point. The Eifcaneers, indeed, are robuft fellows enough; and, if the Leon Franco had been manned with them, flie had certainly doubled the Cape with the other three fliips ; but the Spaniards in general, ever fince acquiring their poffeflions in America, are grown fo delicate and indolent, that it would be hard to find an intire fliip's company able to perform that navigation. The prodigious advantage of the trade of Chili this way is ib manifeft, that his Catholic Majefty is obliged by treaties to fliut out all nations, as well as the Englifli, though he makes nothing of it himfelf ; and it is very rare that a Spanifti fnip has gone by Cape Horn : from hence arifes the extraordinary price all European goods fetch at Chili and Peru. 1 have been told at Lima, that they are often fold at 400 per cent. profit ; and, I may fay, the goods that are carried from France by Cape Horn, are in tiiemfclves 50 per cent, better than thofe that go in the flota of Cales to Carthagena or La Vera Cruz ; becaufe the former are delivered frelh and undamaged in fix months, whereas the other are generally eighteen months before they can come to Chili ; fo that the French, during the importing time, made their markets, furniftied themfelves with provifion, and got home again in twelve or fourteen months time. When Martinet arrived at Chili in the year 1717, with the king of Spain's commiirion to take or deftroy all his countrymen that were trading clandeftinely, he foon found employment for his thi ee iliips, the fourth being loft, as I have obierved ; and of fourteen fail of St. Malo men, there was but one efcaped him, flie being land-locked in a little creek, where llie lay hid, till ftie was got to leeward ; after which ftie weighed, and came away with half her cargo unfold. Though all this was to execute the orders of his Catholic Majefty, and doing afenfible pleafure to the Britifti South Sea Company, yet the Creole Spaniards, efpecially the trading part of them, found themfelves almoft ruined by it, becaufe it hindered the circulation of money, and fpoiled bufinefs, fo that they could not bear the fight of the French men of war, though they liked the French merchant- men well enough. On the other hand, the French, im.agining they had done the Spaniards efteftual fervice, expeded, no doubt, civil treatment in return, while they ftaid among them. But, as foon as Martinet brought his prizes into Calao, and the Frenchmen BETAOH*S ACCOUNT OF PERU. ' 2; Frenchmen had received their proper fhares, they, forgetting the old antipathy of the Spanifh to the French nation, gave themfelves extravagant airs afhore^ by dancing and drinking ; and this ftill incenfed the Creolians more againft them, who called them cavachos and renegados, for falling foul on their own countrymen. From one thing or other, their mutual quarrels grew fo high, that the Frenchmen were forced to go in parties about Lima and Calao, the better to avoid public outrages and affronts. At laft, a young gentleman, who was enllgn on board the Ruby, and nephew to Captain Jonquiere, was Ihot from a window, and the malefactor took refuge in the great church at Calao. Martinet, Jonquiere, and the other captains, joined in a petition to the vice- roy, that the murderer might be delivered to juftice ; but the viceroy, being an arch- bifhop, would by no means violate the rights of the church to humour any body, upon which they ordered all their men on board by public beat of drum, and brought their three fhips, with their broadfides, to bear on the town of Calao, threatening to demolifh the houfes and fortifications, unlefs the affaffm was delivered up or executed. All this bluftering could not prevail with the viceroy to give them any fatisfaclion, though they had feveral other men killed befides that gendeman. At laft, Jonquiere, unwilling to ufe extremities, and no longer able to bear the place where his nephew was murdered, obtained of his commodore Martinet, that he might make the beft of his way home. About this time, many fathers, and many rich paffengers, were got together at the town of Conception, intending, when this fquadron came by, to take their paffage to Europe ; for they knev/, that all fliips bound to Cape Horn mufl: touch at Conception, or thereabouts, for provilion : herein Jonquiere got ftart of his commodore, having now the advantage of fo many good paffengers in his fliip; for, as the king of Spain has no officers at Conception to regifter the m.oney fhipped there, fo it is unknown what vaft fums thofe paffengers and miffioniaries put on board the Rubyi By this opportunity, the padres and others gained two great advantages ; firft, they were fpared the trouble-of a voyage to Panama or Acapulco, and thence traverfing the continent to Porto Bello, or La Vera Cruz, where they muft have had their coffers vifited, to fee if the indulto to his Majefty was fairly accounted for ; and then they faved every fliilling of that indulto, or duty, becaufe the Ruby touched firft in France, where no cognizance at all was to be taken of the affair ; fo that as they faved one moiety of the duty payable in America, they likewife got clear of the other payable in Spain ; becaufe the fliip arrived in France, where they put all the money on fhore. There was on board the Ruby, befides thefe paffengers money, a confiderable fum arifing to his Catholic Majefty for the confifcation of the thirteen interlopers taken by this fquadron ; all which together, I was well informed, amounted to four millions of dollars aboard that ffiip : what a fine booty then we miffed through Shelvocke's obftinate condufl; ? For, when this fame ftiip the Ruby found us in the harbour of St. Catherine's, Jonquiere's company, as I faid before, were fo infirm, that he had not more than fixty found men out of four hundred, fo that he really was afraid of us, and would not even fend his boat afhofe to the watering-place, where we kept guard, and our coopers and fallmakers were at work, till he had firft aflced our cap- tain leave ; nor is this at all ftrange, for underftanding we had a confort, he was really in pain all the time he was there, left the Succefs ftiould come in. After Captain Martinet had cleared the coaft of Peru and Chili of his countrymen, he fent exprefs with the news to Madrid, his brother-in-law Monfieur de Grange, who came by way of Porto Bello, Jamaica, and London. Upon delivering his meffage, the king afked him what he fhould *do for him : De Grange humbly begged, that his Majefty would pleafe to give him the command of a fliip to go round Cape Horn again. £2 He sS BETAGH's account of PERU. He accordingly had the Zelerin of fifty guns : he came firft to Calais, where the fhip was getting ready ; but was furpiiiLd to find a cold reception from the French mer- chants, and other gentlemen ot his acquaintai;ce refiding there; for, as there were merchants of fevcral nations interefted in the fliips taken and confifcated as aforefaid, they unanimoufly looked upon him, and all the French aboard that fquadron, as falie brethren, for ferving a foreign power to the prejudice of their own countrymen ; and, vi'hile he expefted a valuable cargo configned to him, being what he aimed at, he found himfelf quite difappointed ; for no man would fliip the value of a dollar with him. Captain Fitzgerald, who was then at Caks, feeing this, made him a confiderable pro-- pofal, for the privilege of going his next officer, and to take aboard what goods he could procure in hi;: own name. De Grange, being a little embarralfed, accepted the offer, and obtained at Court a CommilFion for him as fecond captain. Accordingly, they manned the Zelerin chiefly with French and fome Englilh feamcn ; and got very well round the Cape, when our two privateers, Succefs and Speedwell, were known to be in the South Sea, this fame flrip Zelerin was one of thofe fliips commifl^ioned by the Viceroy of Peru to cruife for us. Fitzgerald fold his goods at Lima to great ad- vantage, where he continued, while De Grange ferved as captain under the admiral Don Pedro Miranda, who took myftlf, and the refl; of us, prifoners. The St. Malo merchants, though great fufterers by fo many confifcations, were not much difcouragcd; for, in the year 1720, we found the Solomon of St. Malo, carrying forty guns, and i 50 men, at Hilo, on the coaft of Chili, with feveral fmall Spanifli barks at her ffern. She fold her cargo in fix weeks time, got a frefli fuppiy of provifion, and left the coaft without interruption ; for by this time Martinet's fquadron was all come away. The Solomon's good fuccefs gave fuch encouragement, that they immediately fitted out fourteen fail together ; all which arrived in the South Sea in the beginning of the year 1721, three of whofe commanders, havhig the belt acquaintance among the Creolians, quickly fold their cargoes, and returned home. About this time the people of Lima judged the Englifli privateers were gone ofl:" the coafl:, at leaft that no more hoftiliiies would be committed, becaufe of the truce made between the two crowns; whereupon the three Spanifli men of war, fitted out to cruife on us, were ordered againfl: thofe frefli interlopers. I was on board the advice-boat, called the Flying-fifli, in com- pany of the faid three men of war, when ihey came up with the eleven fail of St. Malo all together, on the coafl of Chili ; and, inltead of firing upon them, the Spaniards joined iheni like friends. The French, expecting to be attacked, kept altogether in a line, and dared the" men of war to begin. This to me feemed new, that three fuch- fhips, purpofely fitted for this cruife, fhould, on their own coafl:, dechne doing their duty ; for, had they proved too weak, they had ports of their own under their lee» In Ihort, the men of war contented themfelves to watch the others motion, keeping them always in fight ; and, when any of the French fhips fteered to the fhore, the Spaniards lent their pinnace, or long boat, with the Spanilh flag hoifled, the fight of which efl"e£tually deterred the Creoles from treating or trading with the French. Thus they made fhift to hinder all thefe fhips difpofing of their goods, except they were met by chance at fea, and fold fome clandeflinely. At length, being tired out, the French- men got leave to take in provifion, and went home widi at leait half their goods un- fold. Notwithflanding all this, and the fevere edids againfl: it in France, I know they ftill continue the trade, though privately ; nor is it probable they will ever leave off fo lucrative a commerce, except fome other power prevents it. I fhall now return to my own affairs, and the manner of my return from that part of the world : a plain relation of which will be a fuiBcient refutation of what Capiaia ShclvQcke EETAGH's account of PERU. 29 Shelvocke has been pleafed to deliver to the world in his book upon this fubjeft. I have acknowledged the kind rcceptiun T met with from the admiral of the South Seas, and the reafon of his treaiing us fo civilly. In eleven months time that I continued at Lima, I think it is but juftlce to mention the feveral favours I received, particularly from Don Juan Baptifta Palacio, a native of Bifcay, and knight of the order of St. James, who came weekly to the prifon while we were there, and gave money to all of us, according to our feveral degrees. Captain Nicolas Fitzgerald procured my. en- largement by becoming fecurity for me, gave me money, and furnilhed me with necef- faries thenceforward to the time of my departure ; and gave not only me, but twenty more, a paflage to Cadiz in a Spanifli advice-boat, called the Flying-fifli : Mr. Pteflick, our furgeon's mate, arted as furgeon in her, receiving wages ; and fo did all our men, being releafed from prifon to affift in navigating the veflel home. For my part, as I was well treated, I would not eat the bread of idlenefs, but kept my watches, as other officers ; and, pray, where is the harm of all this ? Though Shelvocke had the ftupidity to call it treafon ; and it muft appear a very malicious charge, as well as an ignorant one, that, after a man has been driven amongft the enemy, he mufl be called a traitor for being ufed kindly, and accepting his paffage back again ; that, becaufe I was not murdered there, I ought to be executed at home ! This is Shelvocke's great chriflianity and good confcience ! But, to return to what I was faying : — On my arrival at Cadiz, Captain John Evers, of the Britannia, gave me his table, and my paffage to London j where, upon my arrival, and the reprefentation of my hardfhips, the following perfons of honour and diftinftion were pleafed to exprefs their concern for my fufferings, by making me a prelent each of ten guineas ; viz. Edward Flughs, William Sloper, and Alexander Strahan, Efqviires ; Samuel Winder, Beak Winder, Henry Neal, and John Barnes, merchants ; Humphry Thayer, and Thomas Stratfield, druggifts. This af. forded me the fatisfaftion of feeing, that fuch as were the befl; judges, had a proper idea of the miferies I had fuftained, and approved of the manner in which I behaved, the only confolation which I could receive in the circumftances in which that unfortu- nate voyage left me. The fair account I have given of fadts, the detail of my pro- ceedings in the Spanifh Weft Indies, and the account of what I obferved worthy of notice during my ftay in thofe parts, will, I hope, acquit me in the opinion of every candid and impartial reader, from the afperfions thrown upon me in Shelvocke's book 5; and acquire me, what every man would wifli to have, the approbation of him to whom^, ©f his own free choice, he fubmits the cenfure of his adions. AN HISTORICAL RELATION OF THE KINGDOM OF CHILE, BY ALONSO DE OVALLE, OF THE COMPANY OF JESUS, A NATIVE OF ST. JAGO OF CHILE, AND PROCURATOR AT ROME FOR THAT PLACE. Printed at Rome by Francifco Cavallo, 1649, with Licence of his Superiors. TRANSLATED OUT OF SPANISH INTO ENGLISH*. The Tranjlator's Preface. TTTHEN the tranflation of the hiftory of Chile was firft undertaken, it was more out of confi deration of making that part of the world, fo remote from ours, better known, as to the geographical part, the natural hiftory, and the firft fettlements of the Spaniards, than to enter into a diftinft narrative of the events of that invafion, which contain little inftru£tion, being between a people of great arts and abilities on one fide, and another of great natural courage, and no culture of the mind or body, on the other. The cafe was fo extravagantly unequal between them, when the odds of guns, armour, horfes, and difcipline, are weighed againft nakednefs, anarchy, panick terrors, and fimplicity, that it feems a kind of prodigy that thelove of liberty and a ftock of natural unpoliflied bravery, ftiould hold a conteft with armed avarice, fpirited by fuperftitious zeal, for almoft a whole century. The natural hiftory of Chile is fo admirably performed, that it may be a model for moft relations of that kind ; for there are exaft defcriptions of all the beafts, birds, fifties, plants, minerals, coafts, rivers, bays, and inhabitants of the country, that can be wiftied for. There is, befides, an excellent account of the climate, the feafons, the winds, the manner of living both of the Indians and the Spaniards. The defcription of the great Cordillera, or chain of mountains, which runs for almoft a thoufand leagues in a parallel line with the South Sea, and divides Chile from the ultra mountain provinces, is fo accurate, that nothing of that kind can be more fo : the narrative of the manner of travelling through thofe vaft plains of Cuyo and Tucuman, as far as Buenos Ayres, and the river of Plata ; the topographical defcription of the ftreights of Magellan, with all its bays, ports, and its whole navigation, are of great inftrudion, as well as very entertaining. * From Churchill's Collet\ion, vol. iii. third edition 1 745. The importance of the countries has beetj more attended to than Uridl chronology. In OVALLE S HISTORICAL RELATION OF CHILE. 3I In all this the jefuit, who was the author of this hircoiy, muft be confeffed to have deferved the character of a candid inquifitive philofopher ; and in what he has per- formed befides, about the fettlements of the Spaniards, he is very particular, efpecially in his defcription of the city of St. Jago de Chile ; where any one may fee the pro- grefs of prieflcraft in that new world, by the vaft riches of the convents, moriafteries, and nunneries : but above all the iirftrudive chapters of this treatife, there is one about the methods of driving a trade between Europe and Chile to and from the Philip- pines and Eaft Indies, which contains fecrets of commerce and navigation, which I wonder how they were publilhed, and it is poflible may, ere it be long, be praftifed by the Spaniards and other nations, if the navigation of the Mexican Gulph becomes fo troublefome, as it is like to be made by the naval powers of Europe, who feem to have chofe thofe feas for the fcene of all their maritime power to exert itfelf in. There is a digreffion about the firft difcovery of the iflands and Continent of America by Columbus, and a progreffive narration of all the other difcoveries, as they were made, and by whom, which is very curious ; but as it is borrowed from other writers, the author can chaHenge no other merit than that of a judicious compiler. All that needs to be added to this preface, is, to let the world know that the tranf- lation was firll encouraged by the Royal Society, of which the tranflator has the honour to be a member ; and that it was two fummer's work, that it might be the lefs fubject to errors ; and to prevent them, that worthy encourager of all natural knowledge, as well as of his own profefTion, in which he excels. Dr. Hans Sloane, has contributed very obligingly fome of his care and attention. The Author's Preface. TJEING come from the kingdom' of Chile into Europe, I obferved that there was fo little knov/n of the parts I came from, that in many places the very name of Chile had not been heard of. This made me think myfelf obliged to fatisfy, in fome meafure, ' the defire of many curious perfons, who preffed me to communicate to the v/orld a thing fo worthy of its knowledge. But I found myfelf in great difficulty how to comply with iheir preffing inftances, being deftitute of all the materials requifite for fuch a work, and at fuch a diftance from the place that could furnifli them, that I defpaired of giving a jufl fatisfaclion : however, in obedience to thofe whofe com.mands I cannot but refpect, I refolved to write this account, more to comply with my duty, and give fome information of thofe remote regions, than to pretend to a perfeft and exact hiftory, which this relation, in all its parts, (I confefs,^ comes very fhort ot. The reader, then, being thus prepared, will, I hope, have a regard to the little help I could have in this work, at fuch a diftance as Rome and Chile are from one another ; and by his prudence and goodnefs, excufe any thing that may feem Icfs finished in this work ; pardcularly fmce there is hopes of a general hiftory of Chile, which cannot be long before it ivS finiflied. In the mean time, the firft and fecond books of this relation will fhew the natural ftate of the kingvlom of Chile, both as to its climate and product ; the third will defcribe the qualities of its firft inhabitants ; the fourth and fifth will defcribe the firft entrance of the Sp:iniards into it, and tlieconqueft of itby'them; the fixth will contain the va- rious events of the war, caufed by the noble refilhance made by the Araucanos ; the feventh will ihew the firft means of peace attempted' by lather Lewis de Valdivia, of the company of Jefus, in order to facilitate the preaching of the holy Gofpel, and the jglorious death of his holy companions j the laft book, which is alfo the l«,rgefl of all, will 3* OVALLE S HISTORICAL RZLATIOK OT CHILE. win contain the firft means of planting the Chrirtian bkh, and its propagation arnon^ the Indians, which was particularly compafled, and is itill carried on, by the millions and xniniilr)' of cur company ; all which endeavours o{ theirs I explain and diftinguilh under fix heads, fhewing the necelTity of the fpiritual help that thcfe new Chuitians lie under, boih as to preaching, and informing them of matters of the Chriftian faith. I muft give here five adverti'ements : the fi.rfl, that in what I have feen myfjlf, I have not departed from the n-uth in any thing I have writ : as to what I relate by hearfav, or b)' authority from other writers, I report it with the fame candour as I heard and read it, without adding or diminifhing any thing of the truth ; and though all thofe I cite in this work are wcrthv to be believed, vet the leaft to be fufpected of partiality, are fuch frreign writers who extol and commend this kingdom of Chile with fuch repeated encomiums. My fecond advertifement is, that confidering the king- dom of Chile was the laft part of South America that was difcovered, and the neared to the Antartick Pole, I could not treat of its difcovery with good grounds, without touching a little upon the neighbouring kingdoms of Peru and Mexico, which were as a paiTage to ic : and if I have enlarged now and then on the praifes and defcript.'on of thofe parts, it was becaufe I thought it might not be difagreeable to the reader ; in which, if I am miiTaken. he has only to fldp fome chapters of the fourth book, and go directly to thofe which treat of the firfl entrance of Don Diego de Almagro in'oCn'h. Thirdly, I mufl take notice, that though I do fometimes, in fpeaking of the land of Chile, report fome particularities which feem trifies, and not fo proper for hiftory, I do not relate them as fingular and proper lo that country alone, but rather to fhew the uniformity both of nature and cuftoms, as to life and religion, in all thofe parts ; and fome things are mentioned to encourage thofe new countries to drive on the advancement of reUgion, politenefs, learning, and good morals. Fourthly, I muft take notice, that fince I do not here make a general hiftory of Chile, I have not had occafion to mention all the illuUrious men, and noble commanders and foldiers who have flouriihed in thofe parts from the beginning of the conqueft : 1 only, therefore, take notice of fuch as I find named in the authors whom 1 cite; and they too not making it their bufinefs to write a diftinct hiftory of Chile, but only to relate fome particular event, and fo mention only fome part of the government of fome governors, or their wars, cannot be exaft in the account of all th jfe who have in different times and occafions acted in thofe wars ; and by this faivo I cover the honour of all our gallant commanders and foldiers of Chile, whofe actions I oniit, though they are worthy to be graven in marble or bronze, only for this reafon. And though I own, that I am not ignorant of many who have flouriftied in ray time, and before it, yet I have not fo diftinct an information as would be neceflary to give them their cue commendations, and fet their actions in that light which their valour deferves ; there- fore the general hiftor)' of Chile will perform that part. Perh;.p:, even before that, this vork of mine may excite fomebody to employ their talent in rr.aking a particular book of their eulogiums and praifes, which cannot fail of being well received in the world, fince fo many noble and illuftrious families of Europe will be concerned in it. Laftly, I advertife, that though the principal motive of my writing this relation, ■was to publilli the fpiritual miniltry of our company in the converfion ot foals in this kingdom of Chile, yet I could not but treat firit of the land and inhabitants, as being the object and fubjed of their endeavours; and I have been forced to be more 5 diffuft ovalle's historical rzlatiox of chile. ' 3« diffufe in it, than I would have been about a place already known to the world by any hillory or relations made of it. For this reafon, I have employed fix books in the defcription of the land, and the valorous fierce difpofition of its inhabitants, that the force and efficacy of the divine grace might fhine out the more in the beginnings of the converfions of that untradable nation, mentioned in my two kit books, which are almofl: as comprehenfive as my fix firft, which were divided into fo many, only to anfwer the diverfirj- of matter which they contain. Thus I have informed my reader of this work, in which he will find varietv of en- tertainment. Some things will anfwer the curiofity of thofe who delight in knowing natural caufes ; others will be moved and incited to valiant acSions by the examples of thofe performed here. Thofe likewife, who love hiltorical relations, will be pleafed, fmce here is an epitome of the difcovery of the beft part of the Indies, according to the order of times, and perfons concerned in the conqueils and difcoveries of fo manv kingdoms ; and, laftly, the pious difpofition of devout minds will be elevated to praife God for the fignal favours, which the queen of heaven has beftowed on the kingdom of Chile in particular : and adore the Lord of all things, for having in little more than one centur}- made his name known, and his worlhip introduced among fo manv heathen nations, even to bring the untamed and powerful Araucanos upon their knees to him, after fo many vears ftubbom refilling the entrance of the Gofpel. I cannot defire my reader to exprefs any acknowledgments for this work of mine, becaufe I do not judge it deferves fo great a reward ; but I hope he may, with indulgence, excufe its feiulrs, and make me fome allowance for the httle helps I have had in writing. I have endea- voured to pleafe all ; but, particularly, to fliew how the kingdom of Chxift may be advanced in that new world, if the apoftohcal zeal of the evangelical workmen will employ itlelf in this great harveft of fo extended a gentilifm and new Chriftianity. TO THE EEADER, THE firft fix books being the only ones that contain the hillorical and natural ac- coimts, they alone are tranllated ; and foine chapters even out of them omitted, for their tedious fuperftitious narratives. BOOK I. «>F THE XATIRF .VXD PROPERTIES OF THE KIXGDOM OF CHILE. CHAP. I. — Of the Situation, Climate, and DK-iJien of the Kmgdam if Chili. 'T'HE kingdom of Chile, which is the uttermoft bounds of South America, and has the kingdom cf Peru to the north, begins at the 25th degree of Ibuth latitude, towards the antarcrick pole, and is extended in length five hundred leagues, as far as the llraights of Magellan, and its oppofite land, called La Tierra del Fuegb, which reaches to the 59th degree. The breadth of Chile is various : for it may be laid to extend itfelf one hundred and fiftv leagues eaft and well, becaufe thou^ that which is properly called Chile, is flot in many places above rwaity or thirty leagues broad, wiach VOL. XIV. ' F . ' -^ .^ 34 OVALLE S HISTORICAL RELATION OF CHILE. is generally its extent from the fea to the famous Cordillera Nevada, or chain of moun- tains coveted with fnow (of which we (hall fpeak in its proper place,) yet in the divi- fion of the bounds of the feveral governments of America, the king added to Chile thofe vaft plains of Cuyo, which run in length as far as Chile does, and are above twice as broad. The oppofite part of the world to this kingdom, is the meridian that pafles between the ifland Taprobana of the ancients, which is Zeilon, and Cape Comorin, beginning at twenty-fix degrees north of the equinodial line. The inhabitants are properly an- tipodes to thofe of Chile ; and thofe who inhabit the countries that reach from thirty- feven degrees to forty-four of the moft wefterly parts of New Guinea, would be alfo diametrically antipodes to the inhabitants of Caftille ; but it is yet uncertain, whether that part of the world is land or water ; but this is certain, that it falls out in the di- vifion of Caftille, and is oppofite to it, and is weft from Chile one thoufand feven hundred leagues. This kingdom is comprehended in the third, fourth, and fifth climate : in that part of it which is in the third climate, the longeft day is thirteen hours ; and in the fifth climate, the day at longeft is about fourteen hours, and fomething more, quite contrary to Europe, as being oppofite to it, but not diametrically ; for the longeft day in Chile is St. Lucia's, and the fhorteft St. Barnaby's ; the fun is always there towards the north, and the Ihadows to the fouth. This is the fituation of the kingdom of Chile, which borders upon the north with the province of Aracama, and the rich mines of filver of Potofi, where the kingdom of Peru begins ; and on the fouth it has the great fea to the pole, and the iflands dif- covered in it. Abraham Ortelius was of opinion, that there was on this fouth fide of the kingdom of Chile, a land which was contiguous with New Guinea ; and this opi- nion lafted till we were undeceived by thofe who having pafled by the ftraight of St. Vincent, otherwife called the ftraight of Le Maire, went round that fouth land called the Tierra del Fuego, and returned to the north fea by the ftraights of Magellan ; prov- ing evidently the faid land to be an ifland, entirely feparated from any other land ; as I ftiall fhew further in its proper place. Chile has on the eaft Tucuman and Buenos Ayres, and to the north-eaft Paraguay and Brafil ; to the weft it has the South-Sea, which, according to the opinion of An- tonio de Herrera, is all that is comprehended between Chile and China, and begins at the Golden Cherfonefus, or the ifland of Sumatra ; and that fea is in breadth, eaft and weft, two thoufand feven hundred leagues. According to what has been faid, we may divide this kingdom into three parts: the firft and principal is that which is comprehended between the Cordillera Nevada and the South-Sea, which is properly called Chile. The fecond contains the iflands which are fowed up and down upon its coaft as far as the ftraights of Magellan. The third cont;uns the province of Cuyo, which is on the other fide of the fnowy mountains, c; lied the Cordillera Nevada, and run in length all along as far as the ftraights, and in breadth extends to the confines of Tucuman. To begin then with that part which is moft properly called Chile : I confefs I had rather the defcription of it had fallen to the lot of fome ftranger who had feen it ; for then the danger of pafling for too partial for one's own country, (to which are expofed all thofe who write of it) would have been more eafily avoided, and fuch an one might with lefs apprehenfion enlarge upon the excellent properties which God has been plealed to endow it with. The connnon opinion of all thofe who have come from Europe to ft, is, that its foil and its climate exceed all others they have feen ; though, perhaps, in 9 that ovalle's historical relation of chile. 35 that they only make a return for the kind welcome they all meet with in thofe parts. As for my part, all I can fay, is, that though it be like Europe in every thing, except in the oppofition of the feafons, which are tranfpofed, it being fpring and fummer in the one, when it is autumn and winter in the other, yet it has fome properties which do really fmgularize it, and deferve the praifes given it by travellers ; for, firfl, neither the heat nor the cold are fo exceflive as in Europe, particularly as far as the 45th de- gree of latitude, for from thence co the pole the rigorous and exceflive cold begins. The accidental fituation of the land of Chile, muft be the caufe of this temperature of the air ; for being covered on the eafl by the high mountains of the Cordillera, which are all fo prodigioufly elevated, it receives the frefh and cooling breezes from the fea ; and the tides which penetrate as far as the foot of the mountains, joining with the coolnefs of the fnow, with which they are covered, refrefh the air fo, that about four o'clock in the afternoon the heat is no ways troublefome. Nay, if one is in the fhade, one may fay, that in no hour of the day the fun is infupportable, efpecially from thirty- fix degrees, or thereabouts, neither day nor night the heat can be complained of; which is the caufe, that at the town of the Conception, which is in that fituation, the covering for beds is the fame winter and fummer, neither of thofe feafons being any ways troublefome. Another good quality of this country is, to be free from lightning ; for though fometimes thunder is heard, it is at a great diftance up in the mountain. Neither does there fall any hail in the fpring or fummer ; or are thofe ftorms of thunder and light- ning feen here, which in other parts make the bells be rung out, and the clouds to be exorcized ; neither are there fo many cloudy days in winter as in other parts ; but mofl commonly after the rain has lafted two or three days, the heavens clear up, and look as if the Iky had been wafhed, without the leaft cloud, in a very (hort time after the rain ; for as foon as ever the north wind, which brings the cloudy weather, ceafes, the fouth fucceeds, and in a fe"w hours drives away the rain ; or if it be in the night-time, the dew falls, and the fun rifes brighter than ever. This country is yet to be valued upon another propriety of it, which is, that it is free from poifonous creatures, fuch as vipers and fnakes, fcorpions or toads ; fo that one may venture to fit under a tree, or lie down and roll on the ground, without fear of being bit by them. Neither are there tygers, panthers, or any other mifchievous ani- mals, except fome lions of a fmall kind, which fometimes do harm to the flocks of fheep or goats, but never to men, whom they fly from ; and this is not only in the cul- tivated land, where men are frequent, but in the woods and folitude, and in the thickeft groves, of which there are fome fo clofe with trees, that one can hardly break through them afoot. I heard a friar of ours, who was an excellent builder, fay, that having gone for three months together in woods, where there was no fign of any one's having paiTed before, to find out trees proper for the timber of the church of St. Jago, he had never met with the leaft poifonous creature that could either caufe a naufeous idea, or a dangerous effeft. There is another moft wonderful fingularity of this fame country, which is, that not only it does not breed, but will not fuffer any punaizes, or bugs, to live in it ; which is the more to be admired, that on the other fide the mountains they fwarm. I never faw one in it alive, for fometimes there are fome in the goods and furniture of people who come from the province of Cuyo ; but as foon as they feel the air of Chile they die. The experience that was made of this, by one that was either curious or malici- ous enough, was wonderful ; for coming from Cuyo to Chile, he brought feme of thofe creatures with him, well put up in a box, and fuch food provided for them as to F 2 keep 35 ovalle's historical relation of chile. keep them alive ; but no fooner were they come to the valley of Aconcagua, which is the firfl valley coming down from the mountains, but they all died, not fo much as one remaining alive. I do not fay any thing here of the mines of gold, nor of thofe excellent waters which running from them, are cordial and healthy ; nor of the abundance of provifions for Ufe, nor of the phyfical plants, nor of many other rare qualities in which this country exceeds others, as well to avoid confufion, as becaufe thofe things will be better fhewed when we come to treat of each of them in particular in their proper place. In all other things the land of Chile is fo like Europe, both in climate and foil, that there is very fmall or no difference ; and it is very remarkable, that in fuch variety of difcoveries made in America, none is fo conformable in every thing with the European conftitution, as this trafl: of Chile ; for in mofl of the places between the tropicks, as Brafil, Cartagena, Panama, Portobello, and thofe coaffs in that fituation, the heats are violent, and continual all the year ; and in fome other places, fuch as Potofi, and the mountains of Peru, the cold is as exceffive ; in fome they have a winter without rain, and have their rain in furamer, when their heat is higheft ; others there are, where they have neither wine, oil, nor wheat of their own producl ; and though in fome they may have thefe produftions, yet the other fruits of Europe do not take with them ; but Chile has, jufl as Europe, its four feafons, of fpring, fummer, autumn, and; winter ; it does not rain in fummer, but in winter ; and all the product of Europe agrees with their foil. One thing is much to be admired, and that is, that the land of Cuyo, that of l"u- cuman, and Buenos Ayres, being all in the fame latitude with Chile, are neverthelefs fo different in climate from it and from Europe ; for though in thofg parts it freezes exceedingly, fo as to freeze water within doors, and that their cattle, if left abroad, die with cold, yet there does not fall a drop of rain all the winter, and the fun fliines out fo bright and clear, that not a cloud is to be feen : but in the fpring they have fuch abundance of rain, that it would drown the whole country, if the fliowers lafled as long as in Europe or in Chile ; for when the rain lalls but an hour and a half, the flreets are full of ftreams in the towns, and the carts are up to theii- axle-trees, though they are very high in thofe parts, and all the country is as it were a fea : there fall likewife at that time thunder-ftones,^and hail as big as a hen's egg, nay, as geefe eggs, and fometimes as big as oftriches ; as I myfelf have feen. All thefe ftorms and varieties of weather form themfelves in the high mountains, that are a kind of wall to the kingdom of Chile ; and they never come fo far down as to invade its territories, but ftop at them like a barricado ; for in Chile the weather is always fteady and conftant, without fudden changes, all the fpring, fummer, and autumn ; in winter, indeed, there are degrees of heat and cold, as there is a differ- ence in the length and ffiortnefs of the days, according to the degrees of the latitude, and courfe of the fun, which caufes the fame variation as in Europe, though in oppo- fite months. From hence it follows, as authors do obferve, and experience teaches, that there muff be, and is, a great refemblance between the animals and other produftions of Chile and thofe of Euro}>e. As a proof of this, I have feen feveral gentlemen that came to Chile from other parts of America, either as commanders, or for other eni- ptoymcnts, which are in the king's difpofal, incredibly overjoyed at this conformity with Europe ; for they think themfelves, as it were, in their native country, the air and the provifions of bolh fo like in their qualities : the meats are more nouriffiing than in hotr ter ovalle's historical relation of chile. 37 ter climates ; and when thofe who have been either born or bred in thofe hot countries come to Chile, they are forced to abflain, and keep a watch upon their appetites, till their ftomachs are ufed by little and little to the ftrength of the food of that country, and can digeft it. CHAP. II. — Of the four Scafons of the Tear, and particularly of the Winter and Spring • with a Defcription of fame Floivcrs and medicinal Plants. THE four feafons of the year which are in Europe, the fpring, the fumnier, the autumn, and the winter, are with the fame duration of time enjoyed in Chile, though not exaftly under the fame names, at the fame time ; for the fpring begins about the middle of the European Auguft, and iafts to the middle of November ; then begins the fummer, which holds to the middle of February ; which is followed by the autumn, which lalls to the middle of May ; and then the winter enters, and makes all the trees bare of their leaves, and the earth covered with white frolls, (which never- thelefs diffolve about two hours after fun-rife, except in fome cloudy days, that the ificles laft from one day to another ;) the winter ends again about the middle of Auguft. It is very feldom that the fnow falls in the valleys or low grounds, though fo great a quantity is upon the moyntains, that it fills up fometimes all the hollow places to the height of feveral pikes, and there remains, as it M'ere, in wells and refervatories, to provide, as it does in due time, fo many fprings and rivers with water, fo fertilizing the valleys and plains, that they produce infinite crops of all forts in the autumn, and enrich the kingdom. But notwithftanding that it feldom fnows in the valleys and plains, yet it is fo cold in them, that few parts in Europe are colder ; which proceeds not only from the degree of elevation this land is in, but alfo from its neighbourhood to thofe vaft mountains called the Cordillera, which fend out fuch fharp and piercing winds, that fometimes they are infupportable ; therefore the fea-coaft is much more temperate and w arm ; but in return much more expofed to vehement tempefts of winds, than the inland parts, where thefe ftorms are in fome meafure fpent before they reach them, and fo cannot whip them and torment them as they do the fea-coalls. For fome protection againft thefe fharp cold winds, God Almighty has placed feveral great clufters of thorn-bufhes, which thrive fo well, that it is the ordinary fewel of all the countries about the town of St. Jago, and the valleys near it. It is a plant not unlike an oak, though more durable ; the heart of the wood is red, and incorruptible ; of it they make coals for the furnace, and other fhop ufes. In other parts the true oak ferves for the fame purpofe ; as the territory of the city of Conception, where there are very large woods of them, which are fo thick, that though they have already ferved for the ufes of the natives fo many years, yet when they are entered, they can hardly be palTed in the middle ; and this within half a league of the city ; for further up in the country there are forefts, where no man every let his foot. Though thefe oaks, as alfo the fruit-trees, lofe their leaves- in winter, yet there are wild trees which do not, though all covered with ice and fnow ; and the cold is fo far from injuring them, that when the fun melts the frofl, they look brighter and more beautiful. As foon as the firft rains come, the fields begin to be clothed in green, and the earth is covered in twenty or thirty days with grafs ; amongft which nature pro- duces a fort of yellow flower in fuch abundance, that the plains and valleys look like carpets of green and yellow. 1 1 Thefe 3$ ovalle's historical relation of chile. Thefe firfl: rains feem to prepare the earth for its ornamental drefs of flowers with th? fpring, which begins about the middle of Auguft ; and they laft till December, that the heats come in, and that wth fuch variety and abundance of fo many kinds, that the fields look as if they had been painted, producing a mofl: delightful objeft. I remember once, as I was travelling, I faw fo great a diverfity of thefe flowers, fome fcarlet, others blue, yellow, red, fliraw-colour, purple, &c. that I was moved to tell them, and I told in a fliort time two and forty forts, fo admirable was their variety ; and yet I do not reckon among thefe the cultivated ones in gardens, nor thofe that were brought from Europe, fuch as carnations, rofes, flock gilly-flowers, orange, lillies, poppies, lupins, &c. I only fpeak of thofe that grow wild, which are fo odori- ferous and fweet-fcented, that it is out of them they diftil a water called aqua d'atigeles, or, angel's water. The fmell of thefe flowers is perceived fweeteft at the rifmg and fetting of the fun ; which, mingled with the fcent emitted by the herbs, which are very aromatic, produce a moft admirable perfume, and for that reafon they put the fprouts and tops of them amongft the flowers which make the angel water. It is fcarcely poflible to exprefs the force with which the earth puts forth thefe plants, which is fo great that in many places it is hard to difl:inguifli the cultivated from the un- cultivated lands. One would think at firfl that all had been plowed and fowed alike ; 2Uid with the continuance of the rains, the grafs runs up fo flrong, and grows fo intri- cate, that a horfe can hardly break through it, it coming in jnofl places to the faddle girts. Muflard-feed, turnips, mint, fennel, trefoil, and other plants, which I fee are fowed and cultivated in Europe, for the jufl; efleem that is made of them, do all grow wild in Chile, without ferving to the ufe of lite at all, otherwife than by the cattle's feeding on them, which they may do for feveral leagues together. The muflard-plant thrives fo mightily, that it is as big as one's arm, and fo high and thick, that it looks like a tree. I have travelled many leagues through muflard-groves, which were taller than horfe and man ; and the birds build their nefts in them, as the gofpel mentions in thefe words, ita ut volucres call veniant et habitent in ram'u ejus ; fo that the birds of the air come and lodge in the branches thereof. There are many plants of great virtue in phyfic, and known onlv to the Indians, called Machis, who are a race of men who are their doftors. Thefe plants they con- ceal carefully, and particularly from the Spaniards, to whom if they communicate the knowledge of one or two, it is a great mark of their friendfhip ; but the knowledge of the refl they referve, and it paflfes from father to fon. Thefe Machis, or dodors, are not only efteemed by the Indians, but by the Spaniards themfelves, who have recourfe to them in the greatefl extremities, when the difeafe preflTes mofl. They find wonder- ful eifefts from the application of thefe fimples, which they ufe in a lefler dufe with the Spaniards than with the Indians, who are of a more robufl nature, and flronger con- flitution. I faw one of our order much troubled with the falling ficknefs and fwooning fits, fo as he was forced to have always fome body in his company, or elfe he might have fallen down flairs, or otherwife killed himfelf : he had ufed all the remedies that the learning of phyficians and the charity of religious men could fuggefl, but without any effc& at all : nay, he was worfe and worfe every day. Our fathers learned at lafl, tnat about twelve leagues off from that place there lived an Indian Machi : they fent for him ; and being come, and having heard the relation of his diflemper, he gave him as much of a certain herb in wine as the bignefs of a nail ; and it had fo great an effect, that it took ovalle's historical relation of chile. 39 took away the diftemper, as if he had taken it away with his hand, the perfon being never troubled with it more, all the time I knew him. I have feen many other cures performed by thefe Machis, particularly in cafes of poifon ; for in that fort of diftemper they are very eminent. I fhall mention but one inftance, of a gentleman who had been pining away for feveral years, and often at death's door : once, being in extreme danger, he heard of a famous Machi who lived a great way off, but was a flie-doctor, (for there are women amongft them eminent in the art :^ he procured, by prefents, to have her fent for ; and having promifed her a confiderable reward, befides what he gave her in hand, which he was well able to per- form, being very rich and powerful, fhe began to apply her remedies, which were herbs ; and one day, when fhe faw his body prepared to part with the poifon, fhe caufed a great filver voider to be fet in the middle of the room, and there, in the pre- fence of many people, the gentleman having firft been very fick in his ftomach, he caft up the poifon which had been given him many years before, wrapp'd up in hair, which came up with it ; and he was perfectly well after this, as he himfelf related to me. Though, as I have faid, the Indians are fo clofe in keeping fecret the herbs they ufe, yet many of them, perfuaded by reafon, and induced by friendfhip, do communicate fomething : and time and experience has difcovered fo many more, that if I fhould mention them all, I fhould be forced to make a book on purpofe of them ; therefore I fhall only mention three that I have more prefent in my memory, the efl'ects of which are prodigious. The firft fhall be a famous plant called Quinchamali, which rifes not a foot above the ground, and its branches fpread like a nofegay, and end in little flowers at the points, which, both in colour and in fliape, are not unlike the faffron called Romi. They pull up the herb, and boil it entire, with its roots, leaves, and flowers, in fair water, which is given to the patient to drink hot : amongft other effects it produces, one is to diflblve all coagulated blood in the body, and that very quickly ; fo that an Indian feeling himfelf wounded, takes it immediately, to hinder the blood that could not come out at the wound from congealing inwardly, and fo prevents all impofthu- mation, and the corruption of the reft. There happened in our college of St. Jago an accident, which gave proof of this admirable herb ; which was, that an Indian belonging to us being gone to the great place to fee the bull-feaft, a bull, to his great misfortune, catched him up, and toifed him in the air, and left him almoft dead on the fpot ; he was brought to our houfe', and the phyfician, being called, faid he was a dead man, and nothing could fave him : but, however, he told the father that has care of the fick, that it would coft but little to give him the Quinchamali, wrap him up warm, and leave him alone fome hours. It was done accordingly ; and after fome time, the father reforting to the place where they had laid him, to fee if he was dead, he was found not only alive, but out of danger, and the fheet all full of blood, which the herb had caufed him to void through the pores of his body, fo as he remained perfectly well in a little time. The fecond herb is that which we Spaniards call Albaaquilla, and the Indians Culen, becaufe its leaves are like the leaves of fweet bafil : it grows in bufhes fo high, that they feem to be trees ; the leaves are very fragrant, and fweet like honey : being bruifed, it is applied to the wound outwardly, and fome drops of its juice are to be poured alfo into the wound ; after which, moft admirable effects of its efficacy are ieen. 1 was told by Captain Seba'lian Garcia Carrero, the founder of our novitiat-houfe of Bucalemo, that as he was travelling with a dog in his company, which he loved ex- tremely. 40 OVALLE S HISTOIUCAL RELATION OF CHILE. tremely, fome wild monkeys that live in the mountains fell upon him, and fo worried him among them by biting him, fome on one fide and fome on the other, that they left him full of wounds, and particularly with one large one in his throat : his mafter came up at lafl:, and found him without fign of life ; he was much troubled for the lofs of his dog, and lighted to fee what he could do for him. This Albaaquilla, is an herb that grows every where in the fields ; and the gentleman, at a venture, gathering three or four handfuls of it, bruifed them between two ftones, and poured the juice into the dog's wounds, and into the great one of his throat he thruft a handful of it, and fo left him without hopes of life : but it fell out wonderfully, that after a few leagues travelling on, turning back to look at fomething, he faw his dog following at a diftance, who was fo well cured that he lived many years after. The third herb, that I remember, is like a knot of fine hair, and which is not com- monly met with : this is an admirable herb in fevers and pleurifies ; it is boiled in water, and drank ; it purifies and cleanfes the blood, expelling that which is bad, and fo the fick body remains perfectly cured ; as I myfelf have had the experience of it. There are feveral other plants, fome of which cure the pains of the liver ; others diifolve the ftone in the bladder, and break it to pieces ; fome are excellent for the fciatica and other infirmities ; all which, if I were to relate in particular, I Ihould make a new Diofcorides, or herbal, which is not my intention. We will therefore leave the fiowers and herbs of the fpring, the harmony of the finging of birds, which fo rejoices the mornings, and the ferene and quiet days of this feafon, to draw near the fummer ; which will afford us matter of difcourfe. CHAP. III. — Of the Simmer and Autu)nn, and their ProduB. THE fummer begins in the middle of November, and lafts to the middle of Febru- ary, fo that the greateil heats are at Chriftmas ; and we are forced to have recourfe to our faith, to confider the child God trembling with cold in the manger ; for when we rife to fing matins, particularly in Cuyo and Tucuman, where the heats are exceflive, we are ready to melt with heat. In Chile the heats are not fo exceffive, becaufe the coun- try is more temperate ; but ftill the weather is not fo cold as it was in Bethlem. About this time the fruits begin to ripen, which are in great variety ; and there are but few of thofe of Europe that are wanting ; for as foon as any of them are brouglit, either in flone, feed, or plant, they take, and it is wonderful to fee how they thrive. I remember about thirty years ago there were no cherries ; there coming by chance a little tree from Spain, from which all the curious began to multiply them in their gar- dens, (it being both a rarity, and a valuable fruit ;) in a fmall time they were fo in- creafed, that they were banifhed from the gardens to the fields, becaufe they produced fo many young plants from their roots, that they took up all the ground about them. Of the fruits of Peru, Mexico, and all the continent of America, not one will grow in Chile ; and the reafon is, the oppofition of the climate of Chile ; nay, though they bring either plant, feed, or fetting, they never thrive ; for thofe countries are within the tropics, and Chile is out of them ; for which reafon alfo the fruits of ICurope take fo well in Chile, fuch as pears, apricots, figs, peaches, quinces, &c. which bear infinitely ; and if there is not care taken to lefl'cn their number when little, it is im- poffible for the boughs to bear the weight of the fruit, fo that they are fain to prop them up with forks when they grow near ripe. The OVALLE S HISTORICAL RELATION OF CHILE. 4I The fruit that exceeds all the reft for bearing is the apple, of all kinds, of which there are prodigious orchards ; and of thefe, though they leflen the number, yet the others increafe fo much in weight, that the trees are brought down to the ground ; fo that there are many windfalls, filling all the ground about them, and the very rivers on which they ftand, and flopping the courfe of the water. All the crops of oats, wheat, maize, and all other garden produti:, begin to be cut in December, and fo on to March ; and they feldom produce lefs than twenty or thirty for one, nay, fome a hundred for one, and the maize four hundred tor one ; and it is very feldom that there is any fcarcity of grain, but it is very cheap moll commonly. As for the fruit of the gardens, it is never or rarely fold, but any body may, without hinderance, ftep into a garden or orchard, and eat what they will ; only the flrawber- ries, which they call Frutilla, are fold ; for though I have feen them grow wild for miles together, yet, being cultivated, they are fold very dear : they are very different from thofe I have feen here in Rome, as well in the tafle as in the fmell ; and as for their fize, they grow to be as big as peers, mofl commonly red ; but in the territory of the Conception, there are of them white and yellow. About this time, alfo, the herbs that fatten the cattle grow ripe ; and then they be- gin to kill them vsdth great profit, it being the chiefefl riches of the country, by reafon of the tallow and hides which are fent for Peru. They kill thoufands of cows, fheep, goats ; and the flefh, being fo cheap that it is not worth faving, they throw it away into the fea or rivers,, that it may not infeO; the air ; only they fait the tongues and loins of the cows, which they fend for Peru as prefents for their friends ; and they who are able, and underfland it, fend likewife fome dried falt-flelh for the king's forces, or keep it to feed their own flaves or fervants. Autumn begins about the middle of February ; fo Lent proves the mofl: delicious time of the year ; for befides lobflers, oyflers, crabs, and other forts of fhell-fifh and fea-fifh of all kinds, they fifh in the ponds and rivers for trouts, Vagres, Pejereges, and other very choice river-fifh of feveral kinds ; and at the fame time there is a great plenty of legumes, and garden produQ:, as gourds, all forts of fruit, particularly quinces, which are as big as one's head, and another kind called Lucumas, of which they make fo many difhes, that the mortification of falling is hardly perceived. In the end of autumn, they begin to gather the olives and the grapes ; and this lalls the months of May and June. The viines are mofl noble and generous, and famed by the authors who write of this country : there is fuch plenty of them, that the plenty is a grievance, there being no vent for fuch quantities : it kills the Indians, becaufe when they drink, it is without meafure, till they fall down ; and it being very flrong, it burns up their inward parts : the befl kind is the Mufcatel. I have feen fome that look like water ; but their operation is very different in the flomach, which they warm like brandy. There are white wines alfo very much valued ; as thofe of the grape called Uba Torrontes, and Albilla : the red and deep-coloured are made of the ordinary red grape, and the grape called Mollar. The bunches of grapes are fo large, that they caufe ad- miration ; particularly I remember one, which, becaufe of its monftrous bignefs, was by its owner (a gentleman) offered to our lady's fhrine : it was fo big as to fill a bafket, and to feed the whole convent of friars for that meal, and they are pretty numerous. The branches of the vines are by confequence very big, and the trunk or body of them is in fome places as thick as a man's body ; and no man can incompafs with extended arms the heads of them, when they are in full bloom, VOL. XIV. G CHAP, 42 ovallf/s historical relation of chile. CHAP. IV. — Of the natural Riches of the Kingdom of Chile ; which are its Mines of Gold, and other Metals ; as also of the indujlrious Management of its other Predud. TOE riches of Chile are of two forts : firft, thofe which nature has beftowed on it, without the help of human induftry ; and, fecondly, thofe which have been produced and invented by the inhabitants, to improve and enjoy its fertility. To the firft kind belongs its mines of gold, filver, copper, tin, quick-filver, and lead, with which hea- ven has enriched it. Of the copper of Chile are made all the great guns for Peru and the neighbouring kingdoms, in the garrifons of which there are always ftores, parti- cularly on the coafts : all the bells of the churches, and utenfils for families, are of this metal ; fo that fmce the working of thefe mines, no copper has come from Spain ; for the Indies are fufficiently fupplied by them with all they can want. There is little lead worked, becaufe there is little ufe of it ; quickfilver lefs, becaufe the mines are but newly difcovered ; and as they were going to work them, the obfta- cle to thofe of Guancabilica in Peru was removed, and fo there was no need of work- ing thofe of Chile. Thofe of lilver likewife lie unwrought, becaufe the golden mines are of lefs charge, and fo every body has turned their induftry towards them : they are fo many, and fo rich, that from the confines of Peru to the extremeft parts of this kingdom, as far as the ftraights of Magellan, there is no part of the country but they difcover them ; which made father Gregory of Leon, in his map of Chile, fay, that this country ought rather to have been called a plate of gold, than to go about to reckon up its golden mines, which are innumerable. All the authors who have writ of this country, do mightily enlarge upon its riches ; and the fame is done by all thofe who have navigated the ftraights of Magellan. An- tonio de Herrera, in his general hiftory of the Indies, fays, that in all the Weft Indies, no gold is fo fine as that of Voldivia in Chile, except the famous mine of Carabaya ; and that when thofe mines were firft worked, (which was before thofe Indians who are now at peace with us were at war,) an Indian among them did ufe to get from them every day 20 or 30 pefos of gold, which comes to near 500 reals of plate, and was a wonderful gain. And the already-cited John and Theodore de Brye fay, that when the Nodales pafled the ftraights of St. Vincent, otherwife called ftraights of Le Maire, there came fome Indians from the country called La Tierra del Fuego, who exchanged with the Spa- niards a piece of gold of a foot and a half long, and as broad, for fciflars, knives, needles, and other things of little value ; for they do not value it as we do. Other authors fay, that moft of the gold that was laid up in the Ineas treafure, was brought to him from Chile, though having never fubjefted the Araucanos, he could not have that quantity which this rich country would elfe have aiforded. But what need I wtary myfelf in citations of people abroad, when thofe who live in the country of Chile, and fee it every day, are the beft teftimony of the great riches that the Spaniards have drawn from thefe mines'; which was fo great, that I have heard the old men fay, that in their feafts and entertainments, they ufed to put gold-duft in their falt-fellers inftead of fait ; and that when they fwept the houfe, the fervants would often find grains of gold in the fweepings, which they would wafti out, for the Indians being the perfons that brought it to their lords, they would often let fome fall. I have faid before, that it was much more eafy to get gold than filver out of the mines, becaufe this laft cofts much pains ; firft, to dig it from the hard rock, then to 10 beat OVALLE S HISTORICAL RELATION OF CHILE. 43 beat it in the mills to powder, which mills are chargeable, as is alfo the quickfilver, neceflary to be ufed to make the filver unite, and all the reft of the operations requi- fite to refine it ; but the advantage of getting gold has no other trouble in it, than to carry the earth in which it is found to the water, and there wafh it in mills on purpofe, with a ftream which carries off the earth ; and the gold, as being heavieft, goes to the bottom. It is true, that fometimes they follow the gold vein through rocks and hard places, where it grows thinner and thinner, until at laft the profit that arifes is very fmall ; yet they perfift to follow it, in hopes it will grow larger, and end at laft in that which they call Bolfa, which is, when coming to a fofter and eafier part of the rock,,the vein enlarges fo, that one of thefe hits is enough to enrich a family for all their lives. There is now lefs gold found than formerly, by reafon of the war the Spaniards have had with the nation of Araucanos ; but ftill fome is found, particularly in Coquimbo, where, in the winter, when it rains much, is the great harveft of gold ; for, by the rain, the mountains are waftied away, and the gold is eafier to come at. There is likewife fome gold in the territories of the Conception ; in which I was told, by a cap- tain who entered into our fociety, that there was, not above half a league from the town, a pond, or ftanding-water, which is not deeper than half the height of a man ; and that when the Indians have nothing to fpend, they fend their wives to this pond ; and they going in, feel out with their toes the grains of gold ; and as foon as they have found them, they ftoop and take them up. They do this until they have got to the value of two or three pefos of gold ; and then they feek no longer, but go home, and do not return for any more as long as that lafts ; for they are not a covetous people, but are content to enjoy, without laying up. I brought with me to Italy one of thefe grains thus found, of a pretty reafonable bignefs ; and fending it to Seville to be touched, vdthout either putting it in the fire, or ufing other proofs, it was allowed to be of twenty-three carats, which is a very re- markable thing. Now the peace is made, and the warlike Indians quiet, the Spaniards may return to fearch for the gold of Valdivia, and other mines thereabouts, which will extremely increafe the riches of the country. As for the product made by the induftry of the inhabitants, it confifts particularly in the breed of their cattle of all kinds, as I have obferved above ; fending the tallow, hides, and dried flefh, for Lima ; where, having firft retained the neceflary proportion for themfelves, which is about twenty thoufand quintals of tallow every year for that city, and hides accordingly, they diftribute the reft all over Peru : the hides, particu- larly, are carried up to Potofi, and all that inland traft of mines, where moft of their clothing comes from Chile ; they are alfo carried to Panama, Carthagena, and the reft of that continent ; fome of this trade extends itfelf likewife to Tucuman and Buenos Ayres, and from thence to Brafil. The fecond produdl is the cordage and tackling, with which all the fhips of the South Seas are furniftied from Chile ; as alfo the match for fire-arms, with which all the king's garrifons along the coaft are provided from thofe parts ; for the hemp, which makes the firft material of all thefe provifions, grows no where in the Weft Indies but in Chile : there is alfo packthread exported, and other fmaller cordage. The third produfl: is mules, which are fent to Potofi, through the defart of Arcama. The fourth produfl: is the cocoa-nuts, which are the fruit of the palm-trees ; and do not, indeed, proceed from induftry, but grow wild in the mountains, without any cultivation, fo thick, that I have feen feveral leagues of this tree. Almonds likewife, and the produQ; of gardens, which do not grow in Peru, are carried thither with great G 2 profit. 44 OVALLE S HISTORICAL RELATION OF CHILE. profit, fo as to be able to fet up a young beginner. When I came to Lima, I obferved that the annifeed, which had been bought at Chile for two pieces of eight, was fold there for twenty ; and the cummin feed, bought at twenty, was fold for fourfcore j which makes merchants very willing to trade to thofe parts, as hoping to grow rich in a fmall time ; and this increafes the riches of Chile, by drawing every day thither men with good flocks. The gains made this way are fo confiderable, that a man who has about forty thoufand crowns to employ in land, flocks, and flaves, to take care of them, may every year have a revenue of ten or twelve thoufand crowns, which is a gain of twenty-five per cent, very lawful, and without any trouble to one's confcience, or fubje€tion to the dangers of the feas ; for thofe who will run the hazards of that element gain much more ; for the merchants, by many commodities, get a hundred, and two hundred, nay, three hundred per cent, in a navigation of about three weeks, which is the time ufually employed from Chile to Lima, without any fear of pirates, all thofe feas being entirely the king of Spain's, and fo free from thofe robbers. Be- fides, it is very feldom that any florms are felt in that voyage, or, at leafl, not any that endanger the lofs of the fhips. The greatefl danger proceeds from the covetoufnefs of the owners and merchants, who trufting to the peaceablenefs of thofe feas, and that they fail all the way from Chile to Lima before the wind, they load up to the mid- maft. It is no exaggeration ; becaufe I have feen them go out of the port with provi- fions for the voyage, and other neceffaries, as high as the ropes that hold the mafls j and though the king's officers are prefent to hinder the fhips from being overloaded, yet generally they are fo deep in the water, that they are but juft above it ; and with all thefe, there are many goods left behind in the magazines of the port j for the land is fo produftive of every thing, that the only misfortune of it, is to want a vent for its product, which is enough to fupply another Lima, or another Potofi, if there were one. It is upon this foundation that it is affirmed generally, that no country in all America has a more f )lid eftablifhment than Chile ; for, in proportion to the increafe of inha- bitants in Peru, Chile muft increafe too in riches, fmce it is able to fupply any great confumption, and yet have enough of its own in all the kinds of corn, wine, flefh, oil, fait, fruits, pulfe, wool, flax, hides, tallow, chamois, leather, ropes, wood, and tim- ber, medicinal remedies, pitch, fifh of all kinds, metals of all forts, and amber. There wants filk ; and it is to be wifhed that it may never get thither, but for ornament to the altars ; for it is already the beggaring of the -country, by reafon of the great ex- pence in rich clothes ; particularly by the women, who are not outdone in this, even by the braved ladies of Madrid, or other parts ; but yet the land is fo proper for filk- worms, that if any one carries the feed of them there, I am perfuaded it will take with great abundance, the mulberry-trees being there already as full grown, and in as great beauty as in Spain. The wax likewife comes from Europe, though there are bees which make both honey and wax. Pepper, and other Eafl India fpices, come from abroad, though there is a kind of fpice which fupplies the want of them very well ; and the authors above cited fay, that in the flraights of Magellan, there is good cinnamon ; and that on' thofe coalls there grow trees of a mofl fragrant fmell in their bark, and which have a tafle like pepper, but of a more quick favour, as it fhall be made out when we treat of that flraight. In the whole kingdom, the herbage and the fifhing are in common ; as alfo the hunt- ing ; and the woods for fuel and timber ; and the fame is pradifed as to the fait mines. 9 There ovalle's historical relation of chile. 45 There is no impofition on trade through all the kingdom, every one being free to tranfport what goods he pleafes, either within or without the kingdom. CHAP, v.— 0/ the famous Cordillera of Chile. ■ ■ THE Cordillera, or high mountains of Chile, are a prodigy of nature, and without parallel in the world : it is a chain of high mountains, which run from north to fouth from the province of Quito, and the new kingdom of Granada, to Chile, above a thoufand Caitilian leagues, according to Antonio de Herrera, in his third tome, De- cade 5., to which, adding the length of the kingdom of Chile to the ftreights of Ma- gellan, it will make in all little lefs than 1,500 leagues. The remoteft part of Chile is not above twenty or thirty leagues from the fea. Thefe mountains are forty leagues broad ; with many precipices, and intermediate valleys, which are habitable till one comes to the tropicks, but not beyond them, becaufe of the perpetual fnows with which they are always covered. Antonio de Herrera, already cited, puts two chains of moimtains ; one much lower, covered with woods and handfome groves, becaufe the air is more temperate near it ; the other much higher, which, by reafon of the intenfe cold, has not fo much as a bufh on it, the mountains being fo bare, that there is neither plaiit nor grafs on them ; but he fays, that on both thefe forts of mountains there are feveral animals, which, becaufe of the fmgularity of their kinds, I Ihall here defcribe fome of them. One of the moft remarkable is a fpecies of hogs, that have their navel in their back, upon the back-bone ; they go in herds, and each herd has its leader, who is known from them all ; becaufe when they march, none dares go before him, all the reft follow in great order. No hunter dares fall on thefe herds till he has killed this captain, or leader ; for as long as they fee him, they will keep together, and Ihew fo much courage in their own defence, that they appear invincible ; but as foon as they fee him killed, they are broke, and run for it, giving up the day, till they chufe another captain. Their way of eating is alfo admirable ; they divide themfelves into two bodies ; one half of them goes to certain trees which are in a country called Los Quixos, in the province of Quito, and are like the cinnamon-trees ; thefe they Ihake to bring down the flowers, which the other half feeds on ; and when they have eat enough, they go and relieve the other half of the flock, and make the flowers fall for them ; and fo re- turn the fervice to their companions that they have received from them. There are many forts of monkeys, which diff'er mightily in their fhapes, colour, and bignefs, and other properties ; fome are merry ; fome melancholy and fad ; thefe whiftle, the others chatter ; fome are nimble, others lazy ; fome cowards, others ftout and courageous ; but yet when one threatens them, they get away as faft as they can. Their food is fruit and birds-eggs, and any game they can catch in the mountains : they are very much afraid of water, and if they happen to wet or dirty themfelves, they grow dejefted and fad. There are alfo great variety of parrots. The wild goats are numerous ; they are called Vicunnas, and have fo fine hair, that ii feems as foft as filk to the touch ; this is ufed to make the fine hats fo much valued in Europe. There are likewife a fort of fheep of that country, they call Quanacos, which are hke camels, but a good deal lefs, of whofe wool they make waiftcoats, which are woven in Peru, and are more valued than if they were of fdk, for their foftnefs, and the finenefs of their colours. The 46 ovalle's historical relation of chile. The fame author fays, moreover, that through this chain of mountains there went two highways, in which the Ingas {hewed their great power ; one of them goes by the mountain all paved for nine hundred leagues, from Pofho to Chile : it was five and twenty feet broad, and at every four leagues were noble buildings ; and to this day there are the places called Tambos, which anfwer our inns, where every thing necef- fary is to be found by travellers ; and that which was mod admirable, at each half league there were couriers and ports, who were defigned for the conveniency of paf- fengers, that they might fend their letters and advices where they were requifite. The other way, which was alfo of twenty-five feet broad, went by the plain at the foot of the mountains, with the fame proportion and beauty of inns and palaces at every four leagues, which were inclofed with high walls ; as alfo ftreams and rivulets running through this way, brought thither by art, for the refrefhment and recreation of travellers. This is what Antonio de Herrera, and other authors, who treat of the Indies, do tell us about this famous Cordillera. Now I fhall relate what I myfelf have feen, and do know about it. And firft, I muft fuppofe, that though thefe two highways run feparate and diftind through all Peru and Quito, yet they murt grow nearer each other as they rife higher in the mountain ; for when they come to Chile, they are no longer two, but one. This is clearly found, by experience, in thofe who crofs the Cordillera, to go from Chile to Cuyo, as I have done feveral times, that I have pafled this mountain, and never could fee this divifion, but always continual and perpetual mountains, which ferve for walls and fortifications on each fide to one which rifes in the middle infinitely higher than the reft, and is that which moft properly is called the Cordillera. I am alfo perfuaded, that the two ways above-mentioned came but to the boundaries of Chile, and ended in thofe of Peru. I have, indeed, in paffing the Cordillera, met with great old walls of ftone on the top of it, which they call the Ingas ; which, they fay, were encampments, (though not his, for he never came to Chile) but of his ge- nerals and armies fent to conquer the country ; and it is not impoffible but the faid two ways might be continued on to thefe buildings ; but it was not pradicable, that it could be with that perfeftion, as in that part of the mountain contained within the tropicks ; where, becaufe the hills are more traftable, fuch ways might be made as they defcribe ; but not in the mountains of Chile, which are one upon another fo thick, that it is with great difficulty that a fingle mule can go in the paths of it : and the Corderilla grows rougher and rougher, the more it draws near the pole, fo that it appears to be above the compafs of human power to open a way through it, fo curioufly and finely con- trived as it is reprefented. It was not neceflary that the Inga fhould ufe fo much art and induftry, to make admirable that which is already fo much fo, as this mountain is in its whole courfe through the kingdom of Chile, as it fhall be Ihewed when we dif- courfe in particular of its feveral parts and properties. For firft, fuppofing what we have iaid, of its running fifteen hundred leagues in length, and forty in diameter, its wonderful height makes it aftonifliing : the afcent is fo prodigious, that we employ three or four days in arriving to the top of it, and as many more in the defcent, that is, fpeaking properly, and only of the mountain, for otherwife it may be affirmed, that one begins to mount even from the fea-fide, becaufe all the way, which is about forty leagues, is nothing but an extended ftielving coaft ; for which reafon the rivers run with fuch force, that their ftreams are like mill-ftreams, efpecially near their heads. When we come to afcend the higheft point of the mountain, we feel an air fo pier- cing and fubtile, that it is with much difficulty we can breathe, which obliges us to fetch our ovalle's historical relation of chile. 47 our breath quick and ftrong, and to open our mouths wider than ordinary, applying to them likewife our handkerchiefs to condenfe our breath, and break the extreme cold- nefs of the air, and fo make it more proportionable to the temperament which the heart requires, not to be fuffocated : this I have experienced every time that I have paffed this mighty mountain. Don Antonio de Herrera fays, that thofe who pafs it in Peru, fuffer great reachings and vomitings ; becaufe no one thing produces fo great an alteration at once, as a fud- den change of air ; and that of the mountain being fo unproportioned to common re- fpiration, produces in thofe who pafs over it thofe admirable and painful effeds. He fays moreover, that thofe who have endeavoured to dive into the caufes of them, do find, that as that mountain is one of the higheft in the world, the air of it is fo ex- tremely fubtile and fine, that it difcompofes the temperament of the animal, as has been faid. It is true, that in that part of the Cordillera in Peru, which they call Pariacaca, there may be a concurrence of other caufes and difpofition of the climate, to which may be attributed fome of thefe efFe£ts ; for if they were to be attributed only to the height of the mountain, we that pafs it in Chile ought to find thofe inconveniencies as much, or more, becaufe the mountain is higheft without comparifon ; and yet I never endured thofe reachings or vomitings, nor have feen any of thofe motions in others, but only the difficulty of breathing, which 1 have mentioned. Others experience other effetls, which I have often heard them relate ; for the ex- halations, and other meteors, (which from the earth feem fo high in the air, that fome- times we take them for ftars,) are there under the feet of the mules, frighting them, and buzzing about their ears. We go through the mountains, treading, as it were, upon clouds ; fometimes we fee the earth without any oppofition to our fight, and when we look up, we cannot fee the heavens for clouds ; but when we are afcended to the higheft of the mountain, we can no longer fee the earth for the clouds below, but the heavens are clear and bright, and the fun bright and fliining out, without any impediment to hinder us from feeing its light and beauty. The Iris, or rain-bow, which upon the earth we fee croffing the heavens, we fee it from this height extended under our feet ; whereas thofe on the lower parts fee it over their heads ; nor is it a lefs wonder, that while we travel over thofe hills which are dry and free from wet, we may fee, as I have done often, the clouds difcharge themfelves, and overflow the earth with great force ; and at the fame time that I was contemplat- ing, at a diftance, tempefts and ftorms falling in the valleys and deep places, as I lifted up my eyes to heaven, I could not but admire the ferenity over my head, there being not fo much as a cloud to be feen, to trouble or difcompofe that beautiful profpedt. The fecond thing which makes this mountain admirable, is the prodigious fnow which falls upon it in winter, which is fo great, that though thefe mountains are fo high and broad, there is no part of them uncovered with fnow, being in many places feveral pikes deep. I am not informed how it is in the higheft part of all, which is moft properly called the Cordillera, becaufe this being fo very high, that it is thought to furpafs the middle region of the air, its point alone may perhaps be uncovered ; at leaft when I paffed it, which has been fometimes in the beginning of winter, I have not feen a crum of fnow ; when a little below, both at the coming up and going down, it was fo thick, as our mules funk in without being able to go forward. But that which I have obferved, is, that after a glut of rain, which has lafted two or three days, and the mountain appears clear, (for all the time it rains it is covered ■with clouds,) it seems white from top to bottom, and is a moft beautiful fight ; for the air is fo ferene in thofe parts, that when a ftorm is over, the heavens are fo bright, even 48 ovalle's historicax eelation of chile. even in the midfl: of winter, that there is not a cloud to be feen in them for many days ; then the fun (hining upon that prodigious quantity of fnow, and thofe coafts and white flielvings all covered with extended woods, produces a profped, which even we that are born there, and fee it every year, cannot forbear admiring, and draws from us praifes to the great Creator for the wonderful beauty of his works. CHAP. VI. — Of the vulcanoes, and the mines of gold and Jilver of the Cordillera. THERE are in this Cordillera, or chain of mountains, fixteen vulcanoes which at feveral times have broke out, and caufed effects no lefs admirable than terrible and aftonifhing to all the country ; amongft the reft, that which happened in the year 1640 is worthy to be remembered. It broke out in the enemies country, in the territory of the Cacique Aliante, burning with fo much force, that the mountain cleaving in two, fent forth pieces of rock all on fire, with fo horrible a noife, that it was heard many leagues off, juft like the going off of cannon. In all that territory the women mifcar- ried for fear, as fhall be related more particularly in its proper place, in the account I fhall give of the fubjeftion of all that country to our Catholic king, being moved thereunto by this and other prodigies. The firft of thefe vulcanoes is called the vulcano of Copiago, and is in about twenty- fix degrees altitude of the pole, about the confines of Chile and Per'i ; in thirty degrees is that of Coquinbo ; in thirty-one and a half that of La Ligua ; in thirty-five that of Peteroa ; in thirty-fix and an half that of Chilau ; in thirty-feven and a quarter that of Antoco : this is followed by that of Notuco in thirty-eight and a half ; that of Villarica is in thirty-nine and three quarters ; near this is another whofe name I know not, in forty and a quarter ; and in forty-one is that of Oforno ; and near that in lefs than quarter of a degree, that of Giianahuca ; and in a little more than forty-two de- grees that of Quehucabi ; and laft of all are two more ; one without a name, in forty- four ; and that of St. Clement, which is forty-five and a half. Thefe are the known vulcanoes of Chile : we have no knowledge of others, which may be as far as the Terra del fuego, becaufe till this time our difcoveries have not gone fo far ; but there is no doubt but there are fome, as they are to be found before one comes to Chile, in the kingdoms of Peru and Quito. Diego Ordonnes de Salvos, in the third book and eighteenth chapter of his "Voyage through the whole world, " mentions among the reft, one that is near, the fall of the river, in the valley of Cola ; it is on a mountain in the iorra of a fugar-loaf, like that of La Plata in Potofi ; and that in winter it throws out fo much fmoke and afhes, that it burns up all the grafs within two leagues round about it. He likewife mentions another in the entrance of the province of Los Ouixos, near the town of Mafpa ; and fpeaks of another, which broke out near Quito, in a moun- tain called the Pinta : and he affirms, that the afhes fly two leagues and a half from the mountain ; and he has feen them lie on the houfes about four feet deep in the neareft places to the mountain. Laflly, he tells of that of Ariquipa, which buried the vineyards, and had almoft overwhelmed the city. To this day there are ken the effects of that defolation, which ruined many families, by deftroying their houfes and poffeflions. At the fame time he obferves, that the earthquakes which before were frequent, ceafed from that time ; and this perhaps may be the reafon why the earthquakes in Chile have always been confiderably lefs than thofe of Peru, becaufe Chile has more breathing holes for the vapoiu-s to exhale by. OVALLE S HISTQRICAL RELATION OF CHILE. .49 There is no room for doubting of the immenfe riches which thefe mountains inclofe in their bowels ; for it is a certain argument, and proof it, to fee only the mineral riches of Chile, which are, as it were, indexes of what may be contained in thofe rocks, as the rivers which fertilize the country are a proof of the unexhaufted fountains contain- ed in the rocks and precipices. I think there may be two caufes afligned, why thefe riches do not manifeft: them- felves nor appear more : the firft is, that general ftate-reafon, and inviolable maxim among the Indians, to conceal and not difcover them to any other nation. This they obferve fo pundually, that it is among them a capital crime, punifhable with death, to break filence in this matter, which they make facred amd indifpenfible ; and if any one among them, either out of intereft, negligence, or any other motive of conveniency, difcovers any thing of this kind, his death is infallible, and no power on earth can fave him. I remember on this fubjeft, that fome gentlemen having, by prefents, infinuations, and flatteries, come to the knowledge of fome treafure by the means of an Indian, and prevailed with him at laft to guide them to fome very rich mines in a remote mountain, he begged earneftly of them to be fecret, or otherwife he was a dead man, let them take never fo much care of him. They promifed him accordingly, and fo they fet out, and he brought them through horrid rocks and precipices, where it looked as if never man had fet his foot, nor fcarce any living animal. Every day they met with certain marks, which the Indian had told them of beforehand : firft, after fo many days they difcovered a red mountain ; and then at a certain diftance from that a black one on the left hand ; then a valley, which began from a monftrous high mountain or rock ; then at fo many leagues a mountain of chalk. All which figns the guide went (hewing them, verif)ing thereby the relation he had given them beforehand, and comforting them up to endure the hardfhip, by the hopes of fulfilling at laft their expeclation, and feeing their labour rewarded. Their provifions failed them, and they were forced to come back to provide more, to purfue their enterprife. The Indian was always in fear of being difcovered, know- ing that he run in that no lefs a hazard than that of his life. They returned then to a town ; and to fecure their Indian from his fright of being difcovered, they locked him up in a room very fafe ; but the night before they were to fet out again, without ever being able to difcover how it was done, (for there was no figns by the door of any body's going in that way,) as they went to call the Indian in the morning, they found him ftrangled ; by which means, being deprived of their intent, and having loft the hopes of fatisfying their defire, they returned to their own homes, though with a refolution to try again, being encouraged by fo much they had alreadv difcovered. The other reafon to be affigned for not feeking after thefe mines, is the great plenty of every thing neceflary for life ; fo that hunger, which is the prompter of covetous defires, being wanting, there are few that care to run a hazard, and lofe their con- veniences at home, to go through imprafticable deferts upon fearch after hidden trea- fure ; particularly finding already fo much in the valleys, ^ottoms, rivers, and fountains ; nay, even thefe mines in the low countries are not wrought, becaufe the profit of other produfts is eafier. It is probable that people will increale ; for every day there is a new addition ; and there then being more confumers, the product ot the land will be dearer ; and provifions not being fo cheap as now, men will be more ingenious and induftrious to feek for fuftenaiue under-ground, by the mines and ireafures hid there by providence. VOL. xiv. H Thefp 50 ovalle's historical relation of chile. Thefe few years laft paft have given beginning to a difcovsry of fome golden mines, and filver ones, on each fide of the Cordillera : for as I pafled over it once, I remember that the fight difcovers a black mountain at a diflance, whofe top Ihines as if it were covered with filver ; and it is a common tradition that it contains it, and great treafures befides, in its bowels ; but they are at prefent ufeless, for the reafons alledged ; and becaufe one half of the year the mountain is covered with fnow, and fo not only uninhabitable, but impenetrable. They write me word, that on the fide of the province of Cuyo, they have begun to difcover other very rich mines, which being below the rougheft part of the mountain, may be wrought all the year round, and with great conveniency of the miners, and other neceffary workmen, becaufe carts may come to the very fituadon of the mine, which is of confideration for the price of the metal. They fpeak of it with great ex- pedation, by reafon of the good proofs they have already had in the aflaying of it in fmall quantities. Befides the mines of gold, and filver, and brafs, and lead, which are worked in Coquimbo, and thofe of quickfilver, which have been difcovered -within thefe few years in Lamache, which is a valley in Chile, I do not know of any others of any other fort in this Cordillera. I am verily perfuaded there are fome of chrjftal ; for, confidering the nature of the place, I cannot think there is one any where more proper. Being in the valley of Rancagua, I heard one of our nation tell an Indian, that upwards in the mountain he had found a great deal of chryftal : he hearing this, out of curi- ofity went up to fee what it was ; and I heard him tell, that after having gone over feveral rocks, he faw qn the top of a precipice a great opening, and that drawing near to it, he faw a profound cave, and in the bottom of it a great plank or table of chryftal, which appeared to him of the iineft fort ; but wanting help and inftruments to get it out, he returned with only this information, and fome little pieces of a chryftal ftone which he found on the top. CHAP. VII. — Of the Fountains, Rivers, and Brooks, of the Cordillera. THAT which contributes not a little to the admiration we have for this great chain of mountains, is the vaft number of fountains, fprings, brooks, and rivers, which we meet with ever and anon, when we go over it : they are fo numerous, that it is a thing rather to be feen than related, though the travellers reap but little benefit by the curi- ous obfervation of them ; for by them the ways are the moft broken and troublefome that it is pofllble to imagine : they laft about eight days journey. One muft fuppofe too, that the fummer is pretty well entered ; for in winter they are abfolutely impafla- ble, and in the fpring not without evident danger of one's life ; becaufe one travels all the way on a path fo narrow, that there is but juft room for a mule's feet. On one fide are prodigious precipices, which have at the bottom a furious and profound river ; and on the other hand huge rocks, and fome part of them ftanding out fo, that if the mule's' loading, (as it often happens, and 1 have feen it,) touches part of them, it throws down the mule headlong, and fends her rolling down till fhe comes to the river at the bottom, which carries her away to the fea without ftopping, except it happen upon fome turning of the river to get it on the Ihore ; where, though the lading may be faved, yet not the mule's life, becaufe it is impoflible almoft to get her up again. In many places one is forced to light ; and even a man on foot is not very fafe, be- caufe fome of the coafts are fo ftraight and flipperv, that it frights one to walk on them. The OVALLE S HISTORICAL RELATION OF CHILE. 51 The afcents and defcents of the hills are fo fteep, that when from below one looks at ihofe who are above, they look like figures ; and for my part I thought it a temerity, if not an impoffibility, to venture to get up to them. The brooks and rivers which crofs the ways every ftep are fo violent, that there is no head fo ftrong, but it turns to look on their current ; which is fo fwift, that if it comes up to the mule's faddle, there is no pafling without evident danger of one's life ; for thefe ftreams coming from on high, have the flrength of a mill-ftream, carrying along with them loofe flones, which overturn a loaded mule as it were a chicken ; fo that it is neceflary fometimes to ftav two or three days till the fun does not fliine ; for then thefe brooks are lower, becaufe there is lefs fnow melted : and for this reafon it is always bed to pafs early in the morning, they having had all the night to run lower. It was neceflary for an allay of the dangers and irkfomenefs of thefe ways, that God Ihould temper the rigour of the fufferings, by the variety and diverfion which fo many waters give in their rife and courfe : fome are to be feen breaking out from almoft an imperceptible height, and meeting with no intermediate objefl:, the whole mafs of water, which is ufually very great, diflblves itfelf by the way into fo many drops, which make a lovely profpedt, like fo much pearl falling ; and being mingled by the force of the air, which drives them acrofs one upon the other, it feems a chain hang- ing from its firft iflTue to the earth ; where, taking another Ihape, it becomes a running brook, and unites with the current of the chief river which runs in the middle. I faw others, which before they got to the earth, divided into two branches, forming like a thick fhower in the midfl of the way, or atoms in the fun beams ; but it is im- polfible to paint all the variety of objefts produced by thefe feveral motions and com- pofitions of ftreams and fountains. I cannot leave them vdthout mentioning one called the Eyes of Water, which is very remarkable ; it is in the laft mefa but one, at the foot of the mountain. I call it mefa, becaufe providence has, for the relief of travellers, difpofed, at fome leagues diftance, little valleys and agreeable plains, which eafe the travellers in this moft tedious and long afcent. This valley is environed with a wall of moft prodigious high rocks ; it may be a mile or thereabouts in its diameter, and is all the year round full of greens, odorife- rous plants and flowers, which make it a pidure of paradife : in the midft of it fprings up this fountain, or fountains, becaufe the fprings of water are many that rife from the ground all about, leaping with great force into the air, which in a little fpace all unite, and make two great bodies, each of them full of water, as clear as chryftal. Thefe two heads begin a kind of combat a little below, and mingling in their courfe with one another, as if fome ingenious artift had ordered it, make a great many turn- ings and windings, fometimes far from one another, and fometimes united through the whole valley, till at the end of it, joining together, they fall into one canal, which empties itfelf into the principal river, compofed by many of thefe rivulets. One property of all thefe chryftal ftreams, is extreme coolnefs, which they never lofe, no, not when the fun fliines out moft in the heat of the day ; it is fuch, that no body can drink half a cup-full of it without refting, or taking breath ; and though all thefe fprings have this quality, yet none in fo intenfe a degree as this fountain of Los Ojos de Aqua ; of which, though the weather be never fo hot, it is not pofiible to drink above two or three fups ; and one can hardly endure to hold the water in one's hand above a minute. Behind one of thofe high mountains, which is to the eaft of this fountain, there is a great lake or pond, fo deep and clear, that it appears as if it were of azure ; and there is a tradition, that the laft of the Ingas, kings of Peru, caufed vaft quantities H 2 of 52 OVALLE S HISTORICAL RELATION OF CHILE. of treafure to be thrown into it, when he i'aw that he could not redeem himfelf, nor fave his hfe by them ; though it feems hard to beheve they fhould go fo far to do a thing they might have executed much nearer home. The waters of this lake have no iflue, being environed on all fides with very high rocks, and therefore it is thought that it comes under-ground to thofe fountains called the Ojos de Aqua, and empties itfelf by them. I cannot pafs over in filence another fountain which is at the foot of the Cordil- lera, on the other fide towards Cuyo. There is a river called the Rio de Mendoca, which comes down from the eait, not inferior to that of Aconcaqua in Chile, which runs to the w eft into the South Sea. Into thefe two rivers are emptied moft of the little ftreams of the mountain ; that of Mendoca meeting in its way with a chalky mountain, bores it quite through, and leaves a bridge broad enough for three or four carts to pafs a-breaft. Under this bridge is a great table of rock, over which run five dif- ferent ftreams of water, proceeding from fo many fountains ; which water is extremely hot and very good for many diftempers. The ftones over which it runs are of a green like emerald. The vault of this bridge furpafles in beauty all that human heart can produce ; for there hang down from it feveral ificles, in Ihape of flowers, and pen- dants of ftone like fait ; for the humidity which penetrates from above, makes it con- geal like points of diamonds, and other figures, which adorn this vauh ; through which there falls perpetually a quantity of great drops, as big as peafe fome, and others as big a.s yolks of eggs ; which, falling upon the ftone table I have mentioned, are turned into ftones of feveral fhapes and colours, of no fmall value. There is another bridge on the other fide, called the Inga's Bridge, either becaufc he caufed it to be built, or becaufe (as is moft probable) his generals were the firft dif- coverers of it, and pafled over it ; for it is not poflible that any human art could make fo bold an attempt as has been brought to pafs by the Author of nature in this place. This bridge is formed by a moft prodigious high rock, which is cloven in two, as if it had been fawed down, only covered on the top ; it is hollow to the very river, which is large and rapid, and yet the noife of it is no more heard on the top, than if it were a little brook ; which is a ftrong argument of the great diftance there is between the top and bottom of the mountain ; for the opening not being above eight feet over, it being eafy to leap from one fide to the other, it would be thought, that a great river being fo ftraightened as to go through it, fhould make a very great noife in pafTing fuch a firaight place with fo much force ; and if the noife does not reach the ear, it is becaufe of the great diftance. I myfelf have gone to the fide of this bridge, and looked down, (though with great horror, for it ftrikes a fhivering into one, to contemplate fuch a depth, than which I have not feen a more terrible one ;) I not only did not hear any noife, but that great river appeared a little brook, hardly to be difcerned. Thefe are the entertainments for the eye in pafTing this part of the Cordillera. As for the many others which may be met with in fo vaft an extent, who can relate them ? I believe there are thofe who know much more than what I have here defcribed, which is only what I have feen ; but from fo little it is eafy to infer more ; for if only the rife of two rivers have aflbrded fuch matter of admiration, what may not be pro- duced in the birth and courfe cf fo many others, as wp fhall defcribe in the fol- lowing chapter ? CHAP. r ,^ G^iJ<:d<7!^- ,'/^ -^c ^cy^i/fi^r '%%^'/f'--7. ■ iMura &v Omu i ihMs ?jfir7n.v,i^A* Jfrc.^/.v ovali.e's historical relation of chile. 53 CHAP. VIII. — 0/ the vaji number of Rivers which take their Rife in this Mountain, and empty themfehes into the Sea. THE great Author of nature has founded the beft part of the beauty and fecundity of the fields of Chile in this range of mountains called the Cordillera, in which, as in a bank that can never break, he has depofited its treafure and riches, by affuring the annual tribute of fo many brooks and ample rivers which are to fertilize the earth ; for neither can the country maintain its fertility without fuch moifture, nor fuch a moifture maintain itfelf all the year without fuch quantities of fnow, as are laid up in the deep hollows of it in the winter, to feed in the fummer the many rivers that are derived from it. Who can demonftrate the number of them at their rife ? But one may guefs at the prodigious quantity of fnow which fupplies them ; for though it cannot be feen all in a mafs, becaufe its refervatories are impenetrable, yet its efFefts do manifeft it ; for befides the feeding of innumerable rivers which run to the eaft, and empty themfelves into the north fea, and fupplying prodigious lakes in the province of Cuyo, thofe which run to the weft, and enter the South-Sea, (not reckoning what may be by the ftraights of Magellan, and the Tierra del Fuego,) are above fifty, which may be well multiplied by four apiece more which they seceive, and fo make two hundred ; which arrive at the fea fo full and deep, that fome of them have water enough for the navigation of the galloons and Ihips of great burden ; which is the more to be admired, becaufe their courfe is fo Ihort, the moft extended of them not paffing thirty leagues in length. The firft river of this kingdom, beginning from the confines of Peru about the 25th degree of latitude, is the river called the Salt River, which comes from the Cordillera, running through a deep valley : its waters are fo fait, that they cannot be drank ; and when fometimes horfes, deceived by its pure clear colours, happen to drink of them, they are turned into fait by the heat of the fun, fo that the bodies feem of pearl, they beginning to petrify by the tail. Ihe next to this is the river of Copiapo, in 26 degrees ; it runs 20 leagues from eaft to weft, and makes a bay at its entrance into the fea, which ferves for a harbour for fhips. In 28 degrees the river of Guafco does the fame, and forms a port. After this comes the river of Coquimbo, in 30 degrees, whofe port is a noble bay, adorned on the fhore with frelh and beautiful myrtles, and other trees, which continue within land as far as the town, and make a noble and pleafant grove, which out-does all the contrivances of art. There are filhed in this coaft tunny-fifh, Albucores, and many forts of excellent fifh, as alfo oyfters and great variety of Ihell-fifli. The next to the river of Coquimbo are thofe of Tongoy and Limari, about 30 degrees and a half eaft ; and then in 3 1 degrees the river of Chuapa empties itfelf into the fea. Upon that coaft there is found a fort of delicate ftiell-fifh, which they call Jacas. Between the one and thirtieth degree, and the two and thirtieth, the rivers Longo- toma and La Liga enter the fea ; and about thirty-three degrees that of Aconcagua which is the great river which comes down, as we have faid, by the way of the Cordil- lera. This is a very deep river ; and though it runs through the large valleys of Curimon, Aconcagua, Quilota, and Concon, which being cultivated with all kinds of produfts, particularly wheat, flax, hemp, &c. and by confequence well watered, yet this river arrives at the fea as full and deep as if they had not drained it by the way to fertilize their fields. About 54 OVALLE's historical ItELATION OF CHILE. About thirty-three and a half, follows the famous river Maypo, which I cannot tell whether it be more famous for its good qualities, or for the danger and difficulty of paffing it ; many have been drowned in it, and every day mifcarrying by it. It is of {o rapid a current, and fometimes fwells fo high, that no bridge can refift its fury, but it is carried away by it ; for which reafon, at this day it has no other but one of many cables joined together, and lying a-crofs from one fide to the other. Its waters are ordinarily thick ; and it enters the fea with fo much force, that it makes its way in it diftindi for a good while ; its waters are perfedlly known from thofe of the fea by a circle they make : they are befides very cold, and yet it quenches thirft but ill, for it is brackifh, which makes the flelh of the fheep which feed near it, to be excellent in tafte. There are fifhed here alfo moft excellent filh, particularly trouts, efteemed all over the country. There falls into this river, among others, that of St. Jago, otherwife called the river of Mapocho, which is divided into feveral ftreams, to water the diflrid of that city ; and it does it fometimes more than we could with, when it overflows. Not far fron\ the city, it hides itfelf under-ground, leaving a bridge of two or three leagues over it, while it maintains a filent courfe underneath ; at the end of this fpace it comes out in bubbles among a grove of cherry trees, with its waters as clear and purified as chryftal ; fo that though it feems to hide itfelf, and die, it is only to fpring up again more beautiful and {lately, being of a ftronger current, before it is again fpread and diffufed to fertilize the fields. At this place of its fecond birth, there Hands an ancient and illuftrious convent of St. Francis, which, becaufe it is within fight of a vaft foreft of trees, is called St. Francis of the Mountain, in which there have been, from time to time, moft holy men of the firfl: founders in that province, and who imploy themfelves in the worftiip of God, and help of their neighbours, with great zeal and reputation of their order. The river of Foangue, which falls Ukewife into Maypo, runs alfo many leagues under-ground : this cannot rife with more advantages than at its firfl: fountain ; for its waters are, at the very fource, fo clear, delicate and fweet, that they cannot be mended ; it has not its original hke all the reft, from fnow-water, but from minerals of gold, through whofe veins it makes its way, as if it had an aqueduft of that precious metal : its courfe is bordered on each fide with moft beautiful trees, which contribute to make its waters wholefome : they are indeed of themfelves a remedy ; for they help digeftion fo vifibly, that if any one has exceeded and eat more than bis ftomach can well embrace, one draught of this water will relieve him, fo that he fhall be hungry again in a little time. Neither is it ufelefs under-ground ; for while it is there, it communicates itfelf to the whole valley by fubterranean conduits: the efleit of which is vifible ; for though in the fummer it does not rain a drop, and the valley has no other watering, yet it brings as feafonable a crop, and as relifliing fruit, as any other that has the help of rain and other irrigations ; neither have I feen any where larger or more delicious melons, nor more abounding and well-grown maize, than in this valley. There are two other rivers which fall into Maypo, which are called De Colina and Lampa ; which, uniting together about ten or twelve leagues from their firft rife, make the famous lake of Cudaguel fo profound and deep, that great fliips might fwim in it : this lake is about two leagues long, all bordered with delicate willow trees, and other greens, which keep their frefliuefs and greennefs all the year round ; and, that nothing piay be wanting to its agreeablenefs, it is full of excellent trouts and Vagres, which 5 ■ fometimes ovalle's historical relation of chile. g^ fometimes are fo plentiful, that they are eafily catched ; and this ufes to be one of the greateft diverfions of the citizens of the city of St. Jago. There are other lakes, as thofe of Aculco, which empty themfelves into this river of Maypo, on the contrary fide to that of the clear river : there are alfo bred in it fmelts of above a foot long ; the very name in Spanilh declaring their excellency, it fignifying a royal fifh ; fome years there is fuch plenty of them, that the whole city may keep Lent with them alone, without buying any other fifh from the fea ; which, though it is very good, yet it never attains to the delicacy of the river-fifh, which is fo fwcet and healthv, that it is ufed to be given to the fick and convalefcent. After Maypo, is the river of Rapel, not at all inferior to the other ; it enters the fea about the 34th degree, and as many minutes ; about four or five leagues before the two famous rivers of Cachapoal and Tinguiritica join together, and are no lefs in debt to mankind for the many people they have fwallowed, than that of Maypo. Among others which increafe their rapid current, are the rivers Mallua and Chambaronigo : on the banks of this the order of the Redemption has a convent, for the inftruftion and edification of all that country. The Jefuits have alfo a novitiate, who have for neighbours a monaftery of St. Dominick. The lands thereabouts are extreme fertile, have excellent paflures for the fattening of cattle, and are much valued all over the country. In thirty-four degrees and three quarters is the river Delora, which receives thofe of Teno, Peterroa, and Metaquito, whofe ftream is fo rapid, that many perifh in it. Thefe rivers water moft rich lands, and a delicious country for the breeding and feeding of all forts of cattle ; and indeed there is not a foot of ground unemployed in them. The great Maule appears at thirty-five degrees ; and it makes the limits of the archbifhoprick and jurifdiftion of the city of St. Jago : all that was inclofed between this and Rapel, Cachapoal, and Tinguiritica, was called by the natural Indians, Pro- mocaes, that is, a place of dancing and delight, to exprefs the pleafantnefs of that country. They were not out in this charader at all : I remember once, that travelling in this country, when I came to a farm of any Spaniard, he would entertain me with nothing but the praifes of it, and that with fo many particulars, that I could not imagine it could be out-done by any in the world ; but when I came to another farm, the mafler of it would relate to me fuch admirable properties of his, that the firft feemed but ordinary to me. Thus I found every one fo in love with the fpot he lived on, that I could not but admire the whole, and have a great idea of the excellency and temperament of this land, as well as of its provifions. Partridge are abounding, and all manner of game ; and as for fifh, there are fuch quantities of fmelts and trouts, that they take thern when they will, being as fure almoft to catch them, as if they had them in ponds at home. I have heard them often fay, that when they were fat down to table, if any one longed for a frelh trout, they had no more to do, than to fend and catch one, which they would have ready dreffed before they rife from the table. The river Maule receives the clear river, and that of Cauquenes ; and though it be as deep again as either of them, yet it is lefs dangerous for paffengers, and fewer people are drowned in it ; becaufe near the fea, by the yard for building of fhips, it fpreads itfelf, and makes a large paflage, where the king has a ferry for the conveniency of paffengers. The Auftin friars have alfo a convent here, and take care of the Spaniards, and their black and Indian fervants, who people all the banks of this river, and are numerous, living in feparate farms all along the country : thefe they call Eftancias. Now we enter the jurifdidlion of the city of the Conception, where the governor refides; and there is a garrifon of the militia. The bifhoprick of the city of Imperial begins 56 ovalle's historical relation of chile. begins alfo at this river, which has for next and immediate neighbour the peaceable and noble river of Itata, three times as large, and as deep as the Maule, and enters the fea at about thirty-fix degrees ; its courfe is among rocks, and fo is lefs ufeful to the land, becaufe it cannot water it : they pafs it upon rafts, and there are alfo fords in fome places. About the middle of its courfe, the furious torrent called Nuble joins it : this walhes the walls of the city of St. Bartholomew of Chilian, an antient garrifon of the Spaniards, and a Angular proof of their bravery and fidelity. Immediately next to this river is the fpacious and agreeable bay of the Conception, into which the flow and filent river of Andalien empties itfelf at thirty-fix degrees and three quarters. There is another fmall river which partes through the middle of the city, having firfl: precipitated itfelf from a high rock, and affording matter to the Thduftry of the inhabitants, for all forts of water-works among pleafant groves of laurels, and myrtles, and other odoriferous plants which adorn its banks ; and as it falls from fo high, it invites the induflrious planters to contrive mills for the fuftenance of the city ; of which there are already a great many. Two leagues further from this bay, in the thirty-feventh degree, the fo much celebrated Biobio enters the fea. It is the moft powerful river of all Chile : it has at its entrance two or three miles in breadth, more or lefs, according as it fwells or flirinks, which is a great deal, confidering its fhort courfe : but that is not the chief thing which makes it famous, and deferve fo much praife; it is its wholefome waters j for (befides the particular excellence they may acquire, by pafling through veins of gold, which neverthelefs many other rivers of this country have too,) it has a fingular advantage, by a fmall river which falls into it ; which river, taking its rife and courfe among Sarzaparilla roots, communicates to the other its virtue and good qualities, and makes it a cure for many infirmities. There is a tradition, that at the fource of this river there were mod rich mines, worked before ever the Spaniards came into thefe parts. Upon this information, Don Alonfo de Sottomayor, prefident of the country, fent a band of foldiers to view them, as they did ; though as they came back, they were laid wait for by the Indians, our enemies, and had a fmart engagement with them, and had much ado to efcape with their lives. This Indian people do always as much as they can to hide from the Europeans the treafures and riches of their country, as it has been faid already. This river is the bounds which divides the Spaniards and our Indian friends from the Indian enemies : in winter the river overflows fo, that all the fords are unpaflable ; and fo the foldiers may take fome repofe 'till the fpring, at which time they are to begin their inroads again. The enemy on his fide has no garrifon, nor place of ftrength ; for they truft to their mountains, to which they can retire at any time : but the Spaniards have many garrifons all along the river, with which they bridle and keep in awe the potent rage of their proud enemy, who alone has given them more trouble than all the reft of America. Their chief forts, befides the cities of the Conception and Chilian, are thofe of Arauco and St. Philip, in which there are generally about fixteen hundred natural Spaniards, befides the Indian allies, who are numerous, i'he firft of thefe is upon the fea-fide, and the other nearer the Cordillera. There are others between on each fide of the river, and fome pretty far into the enemy's country. I can name nine of thefe forts ; which are, th;it of St. Angol, of the Nativity, of St. Anne, of St. Rofendo, of Good Hope, of Talinacahuida, of St. Peter, of Colcuta, and that of Levo. Thefe are all provided with great guns, and a fufficient number of foldier."; ; and at fuch propor- tionable diftances from each other, that they can foon receive notice of what is 12 Bf'cvflarv OVALLE S HISTORICAL RELATION OF CHILE. 57 neceflary to be known from the firft to the iaft by the cannon-fliot, according as it may have been concerted beforehand. The company of Jefus has here two refidences, one in Arauco, and the other in ,the fort of Good Hope ; from whence they alfo make their attempts, not againft the bodies, but to fave the fouls of their enemies, engaging with hell itfelf, and obtaining over it daily and glorious viftories, as it fliall be told in its proper place ; for now we muft follow the defcription already begun of the rivers of Chile. After Biobio follow four others much inferior to it : they are the rivers of Colcura, Arauco, Lavapie, and Levo, which empties itfelf near the thirty-eighth degree ; and a little further, that of Ralemo, which a little from its fource is called Coypo, in near thirty-nine degrees. The pleafant and peaceful river of the Imperial enters the fea, having firft incorporated with its ftream, the river called the Ladies River, becaufe of the delicacy of its waters and quiet current. More above, near its fource, it receives the two rivers of Curarava and Eyow, which, before they meet to enter the river Im- perial, form the much celebrated lake of Puren, a moft unconquerable fortrefs of the Indians, who are more fecure in it, than the Spaniards in any of theirs. About half a degree beyond the river Cauren, which is the fame as the Imperial, the river Token pays its tribute to the fea, and is deep enough for great ftiips. About eight leagues further, the river Queule does the fame ; which, though fmall, yet re- ceives barks in it, and is about nine leagues upon a north and fouth line from the famous river of Valdivia. CHAP. IX. — Of the famous Port and River of Valdivia. THE river and port of Valdivia, never enough commended by foreign writers, and no lefs admired by thofe who have feen it, had its name from Pedro de Valdivia, firft governor and conqueror of Chile. It is, as it were, in the centre of the whole kingdom, at almoft forty degrees latitude fouth-weft from Seville in Spain ; upon a plain map one thoufand nine hundred and feventy leagues, meafured by the heavens. The fun is five hours, and a third part of an hour, in going from the meridian of Seville to the meridian of Valdivia ; fo that when it is noon at Seville, it is in Valdivia fix o'clock and forty minutes in the morning. Its longeft day is of fourteen hours, or thereabouts. This river has its opening to the north ; and becaufe of the depth of its waters, great ftiips can go up to the very city, which is two or three leagues from the fea : when they are there, they can lie fo near the Ihore, as with a plank to go in and out, and take in and unload their cargo, without the help of boats. There is juft over- againft the city, a fine ifland, called the Ifland of Conftantine, wuh two little ones, one before, and the other behind the ifland. The river is navigable on both fides the ifland ; but becaufe the fouth branch has more depth, the great ftiips come in that way, and the lefler by the north branch. There are two high points of land, like rocks, which mark the entrance of this river ; the biggeft is to the north, and is called Bonifacio's Hill ; the fouth is lefler,, and is called Gongalo's Hill. When one is entered fome way up the river, there is another ftraighter paflTage, which is the key of the port, or rather ports, becaufe there are many harbours within. This entrance has alfo two hills, which come fo near each other, that I have heard a captain, who was fent to found the river, relate, that in the middle he was within mufl?et-ftiot of either hill ; the fouth one is called Morro de los VOL. XIV. I Manganos. 58 ovalle's historical relation of chile. Man^anos, and the oppofite Morro de Niera : fo that, according to this account, there might be an iron chain laid from the one to the other, with which, and two forts raifed on each fide, the entrance would be made impenetrable. As foon as this ftraight is pafled, there is on the fouth fide a noble port ; for though all the river may be called fo, for the quietnefs of its water, yet this is more advanta- geoufly fituated, by being covered with the mountains of the land : it is called the port of the Corral : it forms a bay capable of receiving great fleets. When you have pafled this port, there appears the firfl ifland ; between which and the land on the fouth fide, there are many fhoals and fands ; wherefore the fhips take the north fide, and go be- tween this ifland and the great one ; and then follow their courfe up to the city, by the channel of the great ifland. The leflTer veflels may keep the other fide of the ifland. Befides all thefe good qualities, this port has other advantages from the land, by the fertility of the country, which produces corn and fruits of all kinds, except grapes, which do not ripen here fo well as in other parts of Chile, from which wine is brought to thefe parts : but it has great plenty of beef and mutton, fowls and venifon. It has alfo wood for the building of fliipping ; and that which is above all, it has the richeft mines of the fineft gold in Chile ; and in all America there is none comes up to it, but the gold of Carabaya. This is the account of Antonio de Herrera. He adds, that there was an Indian, who had every day a revenue of twenty-five or thirty pefos of gold ; which being obferved by the governor Valdivia, he fent the Adelantado Hyeronimo de Alderate to Spain, to inform His Catholick Majefty of the great riches of the kingdom of Chile, that His Majefty might make the more efteem of it ; and to invite foreigners to come and people the country, and help him to conquer it, he fent fome Spaniards by land, whofe Itir- rups, breaft-plates, and all that ufed to be iron about a horfe, were of fine gold ; and that, not fatisfied with this, he had refolved to go in perfon, to inform His Majefty, and obtain from him the confirmation of his government : to which end he employed twenty thoufand Indians to bring him gold, defigning to embark and fail thiough the ftraights of Magellan, if death had not prevented him. This city was founded by the governor Valdivia, in the year 1552, upon a high rifing, but plain fide of a hill, and above the reft of the country. The famous Indian lady Recloma was very inftrumental in helping towards its con- queft and foundation. The ftory was thus : the Spanifli forces were come to this river, conquering the country all the way before them ; but here the Indians not being wil- ling to let foreigners fettle in their country, took up arms, and making the river ferve for their defence, hindered the progrefs of Valdivia, and gave him great trouble. But he being a man of great courage, was not daunted by this refiftance, but endeavoured to pafs the river to engage the enemy. Upon this occafion, this brave Indian lady, either infpired by Heaven, or touched by compafllon of fo much blood as muft be ihed on both fides in the recountcr, ofi'ered the governor, that flie alone would gain him the viftory, without any other force, than that of her eloquence and courageous mind. " Stay here," faid fhe, " and go no farther ; for I will put all this province into thy hands, and will make thee this day lord of all that thy eyes can difcover. Stay for my return here, and do not fuffer any of thy foldiers to pafs on a ftep further." The governor promifed to do fo ; and, upon his word, and promife of good treatment to the Indians who Ihould fubmit to his God and his king, (he threw herfelf into the water, and, in the prefence of them all, fwam the river. When flie was landed, Ihe defired audience of the general of the Indians ; to whom flie delivered her mefliige with fo much force of eloquence, '1 2 that OVALLE S HISTORICAL RELATION OF CHILE. eg that they fubmitted to her reafons, and promifed to accept of what terms fhould be given them. With this the famous Recloma returned to the Spaniards, fmging viftory laying at their feet the richeft prize they could wifli ; and fuch a one, as after much time, expence, and bloodfhed in the conquefl of it, they would have thought them- felves well paid to be mafters of fuch a country, whofe golden mines they prefently began to work : by which means the city increafed fo faft, that if the devil had not troubled the peace, and caufed the rebellion of the Indians, which ruined it, it had been one of the firft and bed cities of the Indies. The Hollanders, our enemies, are well informed of the nature of the country, and the excellency of the port, and do all they can to get poffeffion of it ; but our Saviour, who, by his grace, has hitherto preferved thofe countries free from herefy and its cor- ruption, will not permit that this Hydra of hell fhall infefl: that air with its venomous breath, nor bread a contagion in the purity of its faith, which is propagated fo fmcere and true in the hearts of thofe new Chriftians. This has been proved by the fuccefs of a fleet of theirs in the year 1643, when thefe rebellious pirates pafled the ftraights of Magellan, with a defign to fettle at Valdivia • for though In effecl: they did people the place, having firft paffed by the iflands of Chiloe, where our company has fo many glorious miffions, in which they threw down the altars and the crofles, and committed other enormities proper to their impiety and obftinacy, yet at laft they came oft" no laughers, but had reafon to lament rather. The fame befell another of their generals, called Antonio Sivaftro, many of his fleet being taken prifoners, and thirty of them hung up by the feet, as is related by their own authors, John and Theodore de Brye. But in this fecond occafion, they paid yet more feverely for their attempt ; for in the very fame ifland where they had committed all thefe diforders, God took the life of the general, punifhing his unhappy foul with the due chaftifement of fuch an un- dertaking. They loft the ftiip which carried their provifions, their ammunition, thirty pieces of ardllery, all the brick and Hme, and other materials for building three forts, which they had orders to raife in the river of Valdivia, and on the ifland of Conftan- tine in that river ; and having afterwards got to Valdivia, and begun to people, their new general, whofe name was Elvis Aramans, was forced to fhut up all his people in the ifland of Conftantine, becaufe they run from him continually, and forfook him • befides the prifoners made in the iflands of Chiloe, and others deftroyed by us, and the warlike Indians. In fliort, God having efpoufed this caufe as his own, they were tormented with hunger ; and before the Spaniards, who were on their way, could come up to them, their own difeafes and lofles obliged them to weigh anchor, and be gone. This was their wifeft courfe ; for if they had ftaid till the fleet from Peru had come up to them, and the land forces from Chile had attacked them, they had not got off fo well ; for the Marquis of Manfera being fo good a foldier himfelf, and fo zealous for God and his king, immediately, upon the firft news of their arrival, had fet out ten fail, which he provided with powder and ammunition, and difpatched them to give advice along the coaft ; then he prepared a navy, which was to be of i6 galloons and fhips, and 4000 Spaniards, refolving to go in perfon, or at leait to fend his fon. The governor of Chile, the Marquis of Baydes, with his accuftomed vigilancy and readinefs in things, where the fervice of God and the king are concerned, and as a captain of that valour and experience, which he fliewed in Flanders, was readv to enter by land, after having provided all the ports of the kingdom with the army kept on foot by His Majefty : fo that if the Hollander had had yet more force than he had, I 2 being 6o OVALLE*S HISTORICAL KELATION OF CHILE. being fo hard preffed both by fea and land, he muft either have relinquiflied the port, or perifhed there for ever. It has been feen on this occafion, that one man is as good as many in the defence of the caufe of God and their country, againft any invader whatfoever, every one de- fpifmg all dangers on fuch an account ; but particularly Colonel de Villa Nueva Soberal fignalized himfelf at this time ; for being general 6t the kingdom, and governor of the country of Arauco, he ventured himfelf in a fniall bark in the midfl of winter, to folicit at Lima the neceflary fuccours, and affift the viceroy for a more quick difpatch of all things. He took with him father Domingo Lazaro, of the company of Jefus, that he might inform him as an eye-witnefs of all that had pafled, he being at that time employed in Chiloe in the apoftolical millions, when the Hollanders landed : he, neverthelefs, with undaunted courage, embarked in the midft of the winter in a tempeftuous fea, as it is at that time ; and without apprehenfion of all thofe dangers, and of being made a prifoner by the Hollanders, who lay in his way, and could fcarce be avoided, he ar- rived at the city of the Conception, where he gave an account of all that had hap- pened ; by which means the country was immediately prepared, and in arms for their defence. There is another atlion which ought not to be concealed, as well becaufe it fhews the great prudence of the Marquis de Baydes, as the outrage of 20 Spanifh foldiers. It being uncertain whether the enemy were flill at Valdivia, or whether he had aban- doned it, they offered to go in a boat up the river, as they did by the governor's com- mand ; and without being terrified by the manifeft danger they expofed themfelves to, they went as high as the town ; and having difcovered the ill condition of the enemy, and his defign of leaving the place, they returned with that advice. This moved the general not to attack them, as wag at firft refolved ; but it did not hinder his intention of peopling the place, (as I believe was done by lafl fummer ;) for I have advice from Pana- ma, that there is a garrifon of 600 Spaniards left there ; to which our Indian friends being joined, and the coaft Indians alfo, that poll will be henceforth inexpugnable, and by it the South Sea will be fecured ; for it being already fo dangerous to fail through the ftraights, and fo eafy for us who are at home to defend this poll of Valdivia, and hav- ing all the land our friends, we receive fuccours both from the Spaniards and Indians, who are fo friendly, that their caciques fent to offer their alTiftance of their own ac- cord againft the Hollanders ; I fay it will be very hard henceforward for any one to give us any difturbance. CHAP. X. — A Continuation of the Defcription of the Rivers of Chile, and particularly thofe which run to the Eafi ; and of the Difference between the one and the other ^de of the great Cordillera. THE river next to that of Valdivia is that which is called Chalbin ; it is deep, and capable of great veffels. From this river, to a place called the Punta de Galera, it is about two leagues ; and from this to Rio Bueno fevcn ; into which fall five rivers more, and one which i,s beyond the bounds of Valdivia. After this is the Rio Chico, which comes from a lake at the foot oi the Cordillera ; in which lake are baths to cure leprofy and other infirmities. Next to this is the Rio de la Ballena, which is clofe to the capo of that name, fo called becaufe of a whale of prodigious bignefs, which died upon that coa(t. After this, you come to the Archi- pelago ovalle's historical relation of chile. 6i pelago of iflands, into which falls the river called De los Rabudos, becaufe of an Indian nation of that name, fo called, becaufe it is faid they are born with tails, as father Gregory of Leon defcribes them in his map. More on to the fouth is the river De los Coronados, named fo by the company of a fhip which put in there on the day of the Forty Martyrs fo called. After thefe there are many rivers all along the coaft ; the firfl is called De la Efpe- ronfa, or of Hope, becaufe of the wilhes, that one day the light of the Gofpel may reach to thofe parts by means of the mmifters of it. The fecond is called Rio fln Fundo, or the river without a bottom, becaufe of the great depth of it. The third is called the Gallegos, from a Spaniard of that name who failed along thofe coafts, and, like another Icarus, gave his name to one of them, by being drowned in the fea by it, at a cape which has the fame name. Then follow the rivers De los Martyres, and De los Apoflolos ; and immediately after them two others. The firfl has no name, the fecond is called De los Gigantes, or of the Giants, becaufe here they were begun to be feen, and they reach all along the ftraights. The famous river called De la Cam- pana, enters at a place named El Ancon fm Salida : this name was given to the river, becaufe its two arms feem to form the fhape of a bell. There are two rivers more be- fore you come to the ftraights, to wit, that of De los Paxaros, or of birds, by reafon of the vaft quantity of them that were upon it, in that part which comes towards the ftraights ; and the other of St. Viftorian, called fo from the opening, to which the fame faint gives its name. As for the other rivers which run among the iflands, and thofe which empty themfelves into the ftraights, they are many, and fhall be defcribed in their proper places. Hitherto we have defcribed the rivers of moft renown of this long extended king- dom, which run from eaft to weft, and empty themfelves into the South Sea ; thofe which run from the oppofite part of the Cordillera, towards the North Sea, are not fo well known, becaufe thofe parts are lefs inhabited, at leaft, by fuch as can give lis a good account of them. The moft remarkable of them are thofe of St. John, and of Mendoga, which are very large rivers, and empty themfelves into the famous lake of Guanacache. ' The governor Hieronimo Lewis de Cabrera, a gentleman of great valour and merit, met with feveral great rivers in his paffage over thofe vaft plains called the Pampas, where, as at fea, people are fain to travel by the compafs, not to lofe themfelves : he was in queft of a nation called the Ceffates, of whom we ftiall treat hereafter in its proper place. They were forced to pafs many great rivers, and, without doubt, there are many more as far as the Pole. Neverthelefs I am perfuaded, that thefe rivers do not equal thofe which run oppofite, and enter the fea on the coaft of Chile ; and this may be clearly gathered from the difference which may be obferved in pafling the Cordillera, between each fide of the mountain, which is fo great, that they feem two different worlds, the eaft and weft parts ; and one would think Heaven had put thefe mountains to divide them as a wall, and keep off from the weft, all the ftorms and ill weather of the eaft, where are the provinces of Cuyo and Tucuman, not to difturb the ferenity and tranquillity of Chile and the weftern parts. Any one that travels to the top of the high chain of moun- tains, may experience this clearly ; for there he dilcovers both horizons, and when he looks to the eaft, all is covered with grofs vapours, which feem to hinder the light, and fhadow all the country ; and at the fame time looking weft, the heaven is fo chrif- talHne and bright, that it caufes pleafure and joy to look on it. The eaft fide is full of a cloudy thick air, which engenders ftorms and hail, with horrible thunders and light- nings, 62 ovalle's historical relation of chile. nings, which fright all the inhabitants : on the other fide, in the weft, there is not a cloud to be feen, but clear and bright, as if the heavens themfelves were fuch a parti- tion as the Cordillera to divide the climates, as that upon earth does produce a differ- ence in the ti-ees, plants, and animals on each fide. A curious obferver contemplating once, from this heighth, this fo remarkable dif- ference, faid, that nature, in the fabrick of this part of the world, feemed to have turned her back upon the eaftern provinces, and looked with her face only upon Chile, giving bleffings with both hands to this laft, and leaving the other, as it were, difin- herited, and grieving at the pre-eminences of its elder brother. In going down to the eaftward there are fewer fountains and rivers, and thofe muddy, the face of the land melancholy, without fo much as one green tree to recreate the fight, nor any pleafant verdure ; and when at laft there is fome, as in the valley of Ufpallata, the heats begin to be fo intolerable, that all things feem afflicting and unkind. On the other fide, when we go to the weft, it is quite contrary ; for as foon as we begin to defcend, we meet with lovely fprings ; the trees are green, the groves frequent and pleafant, and the little valleys, which are like fo many refting-places in that great ftair-cafe, where paflengers take breath, and are refreftied with the verdure and flowers of them, the air ftill grows purer and purer ; and the more they come down, the more they leave behind them all the inclemences of the climate of the other fide, enjoying the advan- tages of the temperate Chile ; for from the very foot of the mountains one feels the mildnefs of the fea-air, and one is rejoiced with the harmony of the birds, and other delightful objeds, fo as to forget the trouble and danger of the way one has pafled. There is the fame difference in the very land at the foot of the mountains ; for on the eaft fide there are a few fountains ; the land is barren, and little cultivated ; nei- ther are there flocks of any kind either fed or bred, fo that the fields look like a ufelefs barren ground, except it be that the thinnefs of the people has not as yet given way to try the fertility of the earth ; for the plains below thefe are extremely fertile, where they are cultivated ; but at prefent there is nothing but thorns and barren drynefs in thofe parts. It is not fo to the weft, where fountains break out continually, which in the winter are temperate, and in the fummer as cold as ice, and that fo much the more as the weather grows hotter and hotter. Thefe fprings do fo fertilize the fields at the foot of the mountains, that they keep the earth frefti and green all the year, though it be but a patch ; for moft of the ground is woody, and there is fuch a variety of wild trees, that one would think they were arbors and groves planted by the hand of man': many of thefe are loaded with fruits of the country, of which the Indians make excellent drinks, and fome of them are very good to eat. The valleys are full of odoriferous beautiful flowers, brought forth by nature, without any human induftry : there are alfo among them moft extraordinary phyfical plants of a beautiful afpeft. The little hills and plains afford excellent pafture for all forts of cattle and flocks : there are alfo ad- mirable valleys for planting of olives and almond-trees, and all forts of fruit-trees. At the lower part, about a league in the plain, there are vineyards, of which are made ex- cellent wines, particularly mofcatells, which are in great efteem. There are likewife in this defcent of the mountain, admirable paftures, where great flocks are bred, and do increafe wonderfully ; their flefh is extremely favory, and the milk of the goats is fo fat, that by only boiling and ftirring it gently over the fire, I have feen it grow as thick as if flower had been put into it ; and yet in other parts this milk is of its nature very thin. This may be laid particularly of the young fhe- goats ; and the milk thus boiled has a fweetnefs and delicacy which paflTes ordinary milk eve OVALLE S HISTORICAL RELATION OF CHILE. ' 63 even with the things that are put in to mend It ; all which are arguments of the great fubflance and nourifhment of that land. CHAP, XI. — Of the Effe6ls produced by the great Snow of the Cordillera. WITH the firfl rains of the winter, which are about the middle of May, the Cor- dillera begins to be covered with fnow, and to put on, as it were, a white armour, to hinder its being pafled, not only by men, but even by animals and birds, which are fo driven out of it by the rigour of that feafon, that there is not one remaining in it. Even the Silguerillos, and Sorfales, birds which of their own nature are fo hot, that in the very beginning of the fummer they take to the mountain, as foon as they perceive that the winter draws near, come in flocks down to avoid its rigour in the mountains ; and then it is that the taking of them is eafy, and that as foon as the cold pinches, the ground being almofl covered vnth. them, it proves the feafon of moft pleafure for the youth of the country, who going out, take fo many of them, either with glue or nets, that they carry loads of them home, referving thofe of the finefl colours to put in cages, for their harmony is very fweet. The Cordillera is fhut up five or fix months in the year ; fo that till Oftober or November, it cannot be paffed without manifeft danger of one's life ; and in the midft of winter not at all, becaufe all the paths and ways are covered with fnow to the height of many yards; and if any one fhould be raih enough to attempt it, he would, after a little going, fink in every where, fo that he \vDuld not be able to go a ftep forward or backward, as has hap- pened to feveral, who either for fome very preffing concern and interefi, or flying from a death which threatened them for their crimes, have found it in thefe defarts more cer- tainly than perhaps they would have done in the prifons where they feared it. Thefe are buried, not in fepulchres whitened on the outfide, nor under cold marble, but in the very bofom of froft and fnow, which preferves them without being embalmed, and yet keeps them as incorruptible and dry, for fo they have been found after many years ; for fuch is the cold of thofe mountains, that it dries up all the molfliure that can caufe corruption in dead bodies, and fo preferves them. This fo infuperable difficulty of paffing the Cordillera, is lefs at the entrance, than the end of the winter, becaufe the drifts of fnow are not then fo violent as to fliut up the ways entirely ; for in thofe feafons fome do venture to pafs, though never but with great danger, and upon urgent occafions ; if fometimes they are fo lucky as to get off well, becaufe they meet with a clear Vs.y, .yet at other times it cofts them dear ; and it is always -with infinite labour that they get through. I have feen others who efcaped with their lives by God's mercy, becaufe the Ilorm catched them before they were too far engaged In the moimtain, and fo they could yet make a retreat to the low countries ; others have been forced to open their mule's bel- lies that they ride on, and hide themfelves in theia ; and by that warmth, and other defence of clothes, they make a flilft to get over the ftorm of fnow, if it does not laft long ; after which they gain the plains on foot, if they are not too far engaged, and fo avoid the danger, but not the long-fufferlngs which follow generally after fuch adventures. In fhort, every body has fome ftory to tell of the mountain, and complain of it ; for fome lofe their toes, others their fingers ; and fome their fight ; fome are benumbed and lamed, and fo remain all their life vnth great infirmities. And I do not wonder at all ^4 ovalle's historical relation of chile. all this, becaufe though one fliould pafs without a ftorm, yet the cold is fo terrible, that it cannot but injure nature extremely in that feafon, fince even in the midfl: of fummer, when we pafs this mountain, and in the lower part of it fweat with heat, as foon as we come to pafs the top, we are forced to put on double cloathing, and prepare the flomach with good warm things, to withftand the fharpnefs of the cold, and the fubtilenefs of the air, which penetrates the body through and through, if it be not well covered. Among the feveral times that I have paffed this mountain, one was in the beginning of April, when autumn in thofe parts is at an end, and the winter begins to threaten, and I mufl: own, that the cold was fo intenfe, that it feemed a different fpecies of cold from all thofe I ever felt either in India or Europe j though even then it had not begun to fnow, the cold was fo fierce that it made one's hands cleave ; nay, it had an effect upon the very rocks, for I remember the fun was reflefted by them as by a looking- glafs. When we come to treat of the firft difcovery of this kingdom, 1 fliall relate what was endured by the Adelantado Don Diego de Almagro with his army, and by thofe who afterwards followed him, and paffed this mountain, in which they were fo ill-handled, that fome were ftruck blind, others lame ; fome loft their fingers without feeling it, becaufe the exceffive cold took away all fenfe ; fome were frozen to death, and with them fome horfes, whom fix months after fome other Spaniards found fo frefh and well preferved, that they eat of them ; and to fecure themfelves from cold, made a defence of thofe dead bodies ; nay, fome got into them. About fix years after, others going that way, found a Negro, who at that time was frozen to death, leaning againft the fide of a rock, with a led horfe, and the reins in his hand, though confumed with time. They who have a mind to know more particulars, let them read Don Antonio de Herrera, Decade 5. Book 10. Chap. 5. and alfo Gareilaffo de la Vega, in his firft tome. It is neceflary to underftand, that it is of this cold of the mountain that authors fpeak, when they fay, that the cold of Chile is fo fevere, that the rivers are frozen up, and men frozen to death in the fields ; for this is only true of thofe uninhabitable mountains, where I believe at that feafon the rivers do not run, but are turned into chryftal j and if any fprings do efcape, they are very few, and that in the valleys moft fecured and flieltered ; that appears by the rivers which run in the plain country, which are almoft dried up, in comparifon of the quantity of water that they carry with them in the fummer. And thus the truth of what hiftorians relate may be faved from contradidlion ; for they not knowing the country, make no diftin&on between the mountain and the plains, in which there never was feen any fuch efleft of cold in any part of them ; for the fea air, which is thick and moift, tempers the ftiarpnefs of the blafts from the Cordillera ; and for this reafon it is, that the colds of Pampas of Cuyo and Tucu- man are fo infupportable ; as alfo thofe of Buenos Ayres, which being at fuch a dif- ftance from both feas, and not enjoying the warmth of its vapours, the air in fummer is intolerably fcorching, and in the winter fo cold, and for want of rain fo dry, that it is common for animals to be found dead in the fields, as well as the men too fometimes. ovalle's historical relation of chile. 65 CHAP. XII. — Of the Fountains which rife in other Parts of Chile, beftdes the Cordillera. BESIDES the rivers and fprings of the Cordillera, there are others which rife in the plains and valleys, which have admirable properties. I fliall mention fome, for it is impoffible to rehearfe them all, nor can I remember but a few. Firft, that which rifes at the foot of the high volcano of Villa Rica, fo famous in that kingdom for its terrible effetls, for which God Almighty makes himfelf to be feared and refpefted by mankind ; rifes, I fay, at the foot of this mount with fuch force, that it fprings out of the earth in two fources, each as big as a man, and fufficient to form alone a good flream, and runs into a lake which is made by its waters. In another lake, out of which comes the river called Rio Chico, there rifes alfo a fountain of hot water, moft efficacious for the cure of leprofies, and all contagious infirmities. There is another fprings up in the Maguey, yet moft admirable ; for there are two fources juft by one another, the one of hot, the other of cold water ; the hot one is fo hot, that no one can endure his hand in it ; the cold one is let in to tem- per the bath which is made for the fick. The baths of Rancagua are alfo very famous, and like thefe ; which, for being near St. Jago, and in the greateft intercoufe of the kingdom, are very ufeful, and much frequented. There are others in other parts ; but not remembering them diftin£tly, I can fay little of them. Among the fountains, that of Ramon is very famous, as well for the goodnefs, as abundance of its waters ; which is fuch, that they alone are fufficient to water many fields : it is about two leagues eaftvvard of St. Jago, and in that diftri£l. There are many others, among which, that of Caren is worth taking notice of: it fprings in a beautiful meadow, of about five or fix leagues in length, affording a delicious profpeft ; its water is very fweet, and enters into the meadow ; the earth of which is fo porous, that whoever treads hard upon it, feels it fhake under him : it is all the year green ; and the grafs is a kind of fmall tre- foil, called by the inhabitants Caren, and is pleafant to eat. Neither ought I to pafs over in filence another fountain between thefe two, very plentifully furniflied with de- licate fweet water, which is always fo much the cooler, as the weather is hotter ; it is called the fountain of Mayten, by reafon of a tree of that name, which grows at the foot of a great fquare table of live rock, where people ufe £0 go and eat their collations, the tree fheltering them all the while from the heat ; for it is a tree whofe leaves are green all the year, fomething like a myrtle, but much larger, and without difpute of a more beautiful green : by its foot runs this fountain, whofe fource is a little higher in a valley, from whence it comes murmuring upon pebble ftones, and among pleafant groves full of beautiful herbs and flowers. The trees, though wild, yet bear very favoury fruits of that foil ; and in them are great variety of birds, who, with their harmony and fweet notes, make the entertain- ment more delightful for thofe that frequent the place. It is not the leafl part of their enjoyment, to difcover at the end of thefe woods a profpeft for many leagues over plains, which being of fo great extent, many of them lie uncultivated ; fo that among the vineyards and plowed lands, the wild uncultivated part is fo beautiful, particularly in the fpring, that one would think art had helped nature. There are in one place great fpots of yellow flowers, which cover the earth, fo that for a great fpace nothing elfe is to be feen ; then you have white, blue, fillemot fpots of the fame proportion ; the green nieadows mingle in this with the waters of the river Mapocho, whicli is feen from this difl;ance fometimes entire in its bed, then divided into feveral VOL. XIV. K arms 66 ovalle's htstorical uklation of chile. arms, and at laft drained into the fields of the neighbouring grounds, to fertilize them. The profpeft is terminated with feveral farms, which are called Chacras, with their churches ; and in the midft of all, the city of St. Jago, the capital of Chile, which being not above two leagues off, and the heavens fo ferene, the towers of it are eafily diftinguiflied, and the bells heard fometimes. This diftrift is full of a many more fprings, all within the compafs of a mile of each other ; and their waters are excellent and healthy. That which is to the north of the city of St. Jago, called Conchalli, is likewife highly commended ; it fprings in a little valley, called the Salto, or Leap, becaufe of the fall of the river Mapocho. This river comes running in a plain to a certain place ; where being divided (for it is the work of induftry) into two branches, the greateft of which runs in its natural channel, the lefler is derived to water this valley ; which towards the weft is even ; but towards the eaft the land is fo high, through which the river runs, that it is two or three miles from the bottom of the valley to the high grounds, from whence the river falls. It is precipitated with great noife, making lovely and various cafcades by the rencounter of the rocks and other obftacles, which by their flrait paffages retard its courfe, till at laft it comes entire to the valley, and is divided into cuts and channels for the watering it ; which is not ungrateful, to make a more than ordinary return to thofe who cultivate it, not only in corn, moft excellent wine, and moft favoury fruits of all kinds, but alfo it ripens them above a month before any other place thereabouts ; and it is very remarkable, that in this valley, which is only half a league from the city of St. Jago, the figs ufe to be ripe in it, when in the gardens of the city, and all its neighbourhood, they fcarce begin to change colour : therefore, as well for this as for the game it affords, of partridges on the hills, and wild fowl in the waters and ponds of it, it is the greateft entertainment all thofe parts afford. I ftiall not dilate upon more of thefe fountains, which are fo frequent ; for if 1 were to mention them all, I ftiould never have done ; for fmce thofe alone of the Conception, Arauco, and the country of the limits upon the warlike Indians, would require a large treatife, befides thofe of the diitritt of St. Jago, what would it be then in the territories of the ancient cities, which are yet farther in the country ? for it abounding extremely in rivers, it is to be prefumed that it muft be fo in fountains and fprings ; all which proceeds from the abundance of moifture of the Cordillera. Of thefe fprings, the moft agreeable for their good waters are the fartheft off from the Cordillera, becaufe they are more purified by a long motion, and refined by the good qualities of the earth they run through, particularly the mineral impregnations are Angular : I cannot but mention one, which is in the novitiate of the company of the Jefuits of Bucalemo, whofe waters are not to be matched, at leaft I never met with the like ; for without drinking them, one may difcover by the touch their noblenefs, their foftnefs being like that of new butter ; and they do make the hands that are wafhed in them in a few days fmooth, and thereby prove their vaft difference from other waters. This fountain fprings in a little valley, very pleafant, under fome hills, about a league from the fea ; and it bubbles up between a white fand, in which there is gold, as if it had a fire under it to make it boil. It is wonderful to obferve, that if they throw any bough or flowers upon it, it feems to take it ill, and never is at reft till it has fwallowed it up, leaping up againft it feveral times, till it has made it his own, and hid it from our fight ; and this it will do for a whole evening, if they continue throwing flowers or branches of trees into it, without any body's being able to tell what becomes of them all. The ovalle's historical relation of chile. 67 The effeds that this water caufes in the flomach are admirable : it helps to digefl the meat with more eafmefs ; it deftroy scrudities, diffolves phlegms and grofs humom-s, and evidently prolongs life, efpecially to old men. This was moft particularly made clear in the perfon of the famous Captain Sebaftian Garcia Caretto Chumazero, the founder of that novitiate, who lived there many years, and came to be ninety years old in good health, and fo vigorous, that he did to the laft go on horfeback through the woods and mountains, as if he had been a young man. I heard him fay many times, that this fountain was his life ; for as foon as he found himfelf any ways out of order, he fent immediately for the water of it, and drinking it frelh from the fpring, he ufed to go to bed upon it ; where falling afleep, he would after feme time awake well difpofed : this I have often been witnefs of. The old Indians thereabouts experienced the fame, and did attribute their good ftate of health to this fpring, without ufmg any other phyfick or remedies. CHAP. XIII. — Of the Lakes of Chile, and the Salt that is gathered from them. AFTER having treated of the fountains and rivers, it feems natural to treat of the lakes and {landing waters formed out of them, and by fome inundations of the fea in winter, when it fills them, and leaves them provided for all the fummer. Thofe made by rivers come firft in rank ; and I wilh my memory would ferve to place them here, with their feveral qualities. Omitting then to repeat what we have faid of thofe of Aculco and Pudaguel, which being near St. Jago, make the greatefl diverfion of its inhabitants, we vi'ill begin with the lake of Tagataguas, about fourteen leagues from that city, and which once was more in efteem ; for the trouts catched there are of a large fize, and the game for wild fowl fo much more diverting, that there is no com- parifon between thefe waters and others. I do not defcribe here particularly the variety of wild fowl, becaufe I intend to do it when I treat of the variety of birds of this coun- try. The lakes of Villa Rica are of great renown, though I confefs I know little of their properties. The lake of Puren has been famous, having been an impregnable fortrefs for the warlike Indians our enemies, by reafon of the difpofition and qualities of its fituation ; for from thence they have for many years maintained a war with whole armies of Spaniards, without being fubdued : their advantage lay in this ; that upon any rout given them by us, they had here a moft certain and fafe retreat, which, when once they had recovered, they were out of all danger ; for none could hurt them either by fword or fire. The fea lakes are alfo many, and of great profit to their owners ; for the fifheries in them are much more certain than in the fea : for which reafon they furnifh the beft part of the lenten fare, though the fea affords a great deal too. Among the reft the lake of Rapel brings a great revenue : it runs in length above two leagues within the land. In the winter time the fea is joined to it ; for by its ftorms it forces an entrance, but it leaves it full of all forts of fifh ; which, with thofe that are bred there, furnifh it for the whole year, and enable it to fupply all the neighbouring country ; and that not only with fifh, but with fait too in abundance ; for, about January, the communication ceafmg between it and the fea, when the fun is at its hotteft in that climate, the water is congealed fo, that it has a cruft of a foot or more thick of a moft excellent white (alt. This, indeed, does not happen every year ; for it requires an extreme heat to do it, the lake being deep, and the climate there more inclining to cold : but they provide K 2 themfelves 68 ovalle's historical relation' of chile. themfelves in one, for many others ; and the falt-pits made by hand feldom fail ; for they not being of great extent, the water that is let into them turns to fait with lefs heat, the matter to be congealed being lefs in itfelf. And fince we are mentioning fait, I cannot omit to relate what I myfelf have feen in the valley of Lampa, which is about three leagues from St.Jago ; and it is this, there grows there an herb, not unlike to Sweet Bafil, only its green is upon an alh-colour, and not fo gay ; it rifes about a foot above ground : this plant, in the fummer, is covered over with fmall grains of fait, like pearl, which is congealed upon its leaves, either from the dew of heaven, or by fome vapour raifed by the fun from that earth ; or elfe the nature of the herb itfelf is fuch, as fo fweat out this humidity, which being afterwards congealed by the heat of the fun, is turned into fait. Let the caufe be what it will, the efteft is feen no where but in this valley, and upon that fpecies of herb ; which is therefore much valued by the Indians, the fait of it being more favoury, and of a finer flavour than any other. I cannot tell whether Johannes de Laet means this in his defcription of the new world ; for having mentioned the kingdom of Chile, to which he gives the preference for its excellent properties, he fays, that in that kingdom, in fome of its valleys, there falls, at certain times of the year, a dew fo thick upon the leaves of the plants, that it is like fugar, and ferves, being kept fome time, for the fame ufe as manna. Antonio de Herrera reports the fame thing, in his General Hiflory of the Well-Indies; and, amongft other commendations he gives this noble kingdom, he relates the fame thing of this flrange and admirable dew. I fay upon this, that I know not whether they allude to what I have reported of the valley of Lampa by my own fight, and have no knowledge of that other thing they mention ; though one would think, fuch authors fhould diftinguifli things fo different in their effefts and favour, as fait and fugar. It is poflible God may have done both, having been fo wonderfully liberal to that country, where the fingularities are fo many and wonderful ; and it would therefore be no wonder fome of them fhould not be known, efpecially confidering that we, who are there employed for the converfion of fouls, have not time to fearch after curiofities, and fecrets of nature. CHAP. XIV. — Wherein is treated of the Sea of the Kingdom of Chile, and of the Etymology of its Name. THE fountains, fprings, rivers and brooks, carry us along with them naturally to the fea, where their courfe ends, and where there is room for my pen to exercife itfelf, if the brevity of this nanation did not confine my flight : I inufl: therefore be content to fay fomething of this element, that the nature of it may not be unknown as to this new world. Beginning therefore with the etymology of its name : It is well known that all com- monly call it the South-Sea, becaufe it is towards the antarctick pole, from whence generally the fouth wind blows, in oppofition to the Tramontano, or north, which reigns in the ocean as far as the arctick pole. But leaving thefe difputes to the fchools, or rather to that abyfs of Divine Wifdom, qui profert ventos de ihefauris fids, it is a known truth, that the eftedls which the wind of the arctick pole caufesin its jurifdiclion towards the oppofite part, the fame is caufed by the fouth wind in its motions from the antarctick towards thefe parts. In Chile we look upon the fouth wind as a favourable wind, as in Europe the north is in the fame efteem. The north with us covers the heavens with clouds, caufes tem- pefts ovalle's historical relation of chile. 69 pefls and florms at fea, and makes all the land dark and fad : the fouth, on the contrary, clears the iky, ferenes the air, and makes the fea as calm as milk : on the contrary, this fame fouth wind, in the north fea, is flormy, and covers the heavens with clouds, and raifes thofe tempefts, which do fo endanger fhips ; whereas the north, called there Tramontano, clears all again, and makes the fine days. From hence proceeds, that in America the fouth wind reigns in fummer, when the fea is calm, and the north in winter, when it is tempefluous : the north does moft certainly bring with it the rains, particularly from thirty-fix degrees to the pole, and that fo fuddenly, that fometimes, in the moment the wind comes to the north, the rain falls, and mod commonly it is within half an hour after its change ; and when in thofe parts in winter the fun is clear, and the weather fair, it is when the fouth wind over- powers the north ; for the fouth in thofe parts is cold and dry, and fo drives away the clouds, fo as it happens fometimes that the heavens are dark ; and as foon as the clouds are difcharged, if the fouth appears a little the flronger, it is an infallible fign of calm weather, which generally follows in a trice ; for this wind drives all the clouds fo before it, that when it blows, it does not leave one in the fky. The contrary of this is feen in Europe, where the fouth winds bring humidity, and the north drives it away : the fouth relaxes the body, and affects the head ; but the north ftrengthens the body, purifies the air, and dries up fuperfluous humours. In Ihort, thefe two winds caufe quite different effects in Europe and America, that we may call the Europeans fons of the north, and thofe of South America children of the fouth. From this there follows another very notable and well-known difference, which is, that as to go from Europe to the Indies, the north is the proper wind, and carries us before it, and by confequence is contrary to our return ; fo in the South-Sea, failing from the pole towards thefe parts, the fouth is the favourable wind, and contrary to our return : from whence it proceeds, that the voyage from Spain to Carthagena being by the North-Sea, and made in thirty, forty, and fifty days, the return to Spain ufes to laft fourfcore, and a hundred, and more days. On the contrary, in the South-Sea, where the voyage from Chile to Lima is but of about a fortnight, and as much more to Panama, or thereabouts, the return only to Lima is of two months, and from thence to Chile forty days. The South-Sea is alfo called the Pacifick-Sea, to diftinguifli it from the North-Sea, whofe ftorms and tempefts are fo frequent ; whereas in the South- Sea they are rare : but, in my opinion the difference is for another reafon, which I fhall alledge here. The moft frequent navigations of the South-Sea are from Peru to Panama, and from thence to New Spain and the Philippinas; and thofe from Peru to Chile are lefs ufed : by which it appears, that the beft part of the South-Sea navigations are between the tropicks ; and fo the fun has fo much force, as to keep the winds from being furious, and making fuch lafting ftorms as thofe which are raifed without the tropicks, and in parts nearer the pole ; for this reafon the failors, in thefe warm climates, where there never is any winter, called this fea the Pacifick-Sea, from the good effefts they ex- perienced in it. The contrary of this is in the North-Sea, where moft of the naviga- tions are out of the tropicks ; where the fun having lefs force, the winter predominates, and raifes mighty ftorms. Now the Europeans who firft navigated the South- Sea, being fuch as were ufed to thofe dangers, to which the navigators of the northern parts are moft commonly expofed, when they found fo quiet a fea as that under the line, and in thofe which particularly are the feat of commerce with New Spain, Panama, and Peru, they gave it the name of the Pacifick, without examining any further the caufe of the dif- 9 ference •JO ovalle's historical relation of chile. ferenci of the efFefts, which they experienced in both feas : but if they had tried that very South-Sea beyond the tropick of Capricorn, they would not fo eafily have named it Pacifick. I know that this difcourfe will be approved by thofe who have had experience of the hardfhips which are fufFered by the navigators, from the twenty-fixth degree of latitude on the coaft of Chile, to fifty-three degrees ; for there, as foon as the winter begins, the fea cannot be navigated without manifeft danger, tho ftorms being no ways inferior to the greateft in the North-Sea ; and though at thai feafon it is not fo dan- gerous for (hips to fail from Chile to Lima, becaufe they every day get into a lefs latitude, and fo enjoy a quieter fea, yet from Peru to Chile it is extremely dangerous, not only becaufe they come into a greater latitude, and go out further to fea, to avoid the fouth wind's oppofition, but alfo becaufe the vapours of the fea and cold mifts of the earth do raife fuch fogs and dark clouds, that they cover the land fo, that when they make their port, they are in great danger of fplitting upon the rocks. This, I fay, is only of thofe coafts of Chile which are in the leaft latitude ; for firom the city of the Conception, towards the pole, even in fummer, they are dangerous ; and the fhips which are bound for the iflands of Chilce have not above two or three months in the year to go in and out conveniently, or they neither go in nor out till the year following : this is underftood as far as fort)' -four or fort}'-five degrees, in which this archipelago of iflands is placed ; for from thence to the ftraights of Magellan, thofe may relate the dangers who have experienced them, and pafled thofe flraights : all that I know of it is, that they all have matter enough to difcourfe of at their return. So that we may fay, that the name of Pacifick does not abfolutely belong .,to the South-Sea, according to its whole extent, but only as to thofe parts of the greateft intercourfe, which, becaufe they are within the tropicks, are the freeft from ftorms ; and yet it carmot be denied, but that the South-Sea has an advantage over the North- Sea, even within the tropicks, which is, that it is free from thofe great fands which are fo common in the North-Sea, about Carthagena, La Havana, and other iflands, nay, even in the canal of Bahama ; which indeed are fo many, that let a ftorm be but moderate, they make it ftill greater, and more dangerous, by ftiortening the fea-room, and force the failors to be always heaving the lead, or eUe to fplit upon the rocks, which may be clearly feen and diftinguiflied from the fhip's fide. I find likewife, that the South-Sea may be called Pacifick for another reafon, which is, becaufe ot the extreme quiet it enjoys in its navigation, without difturbance from any' of its enemies, w-ho are fo frequent on all ftiores of the North-Sea ; for there being no other entrance into the South-Sea, but by the ftraights of Magellan and St. Vincent, which are at fuch diftance, and defended by nature itfelf, the enemies of our quiet do not care to engage in fo ufelefs and dangerous a defign, with fo manifeft a deftruction, and fo little advantage, as hath happened already to fome hereticks who have attempted it ; for having no fettlement, nor landing-place in all that vaft fea, they have been forced to fail to the Philippinas : therefore the fliips of the South-Sea are free from any fear of enemies, and go and come without any apprehenfion of danger on that fide. Antonio de Herrera, in the fifth decade of his General Hiftory, fol. 3 1 9, relates the motive that Magellan had to call this the Pacifick Sea, and that is, becaufe there is not in all that element a more fpacious career for the winds and tides ; and becaufe there reigns between the tropicks fo fteady and ftrong a levant, that in many days the feamen need not hand their fails, nor the fteerfman his helm, failing through thofe vaft feas as if it were in a canal or river. And the fame author adds, that this motion of this wind OV'ALLE S HISTORICAL RELATION OF CHILE. 71 wind proceeds from the courfe of the firfl Mobile, which is proved by its perpetual invariability, and the increafe of its vehemence, as it draws nearer the equinox. Some difpute, whether it ought to be called a wind, or an impulfe which the air receives from fuperior orbs, communicated to them by the firfl: fphere. So far this author. CHAP. XV. — Of the Sea-coalls of Chile, and its Ports and Havens. IT would be too great an excurfion beyond my purpofe, to mention all the ports and creeks along the coafl; of Chile ; for they are very numerous. George Spilberg, admiral of a fleet of fix fail, whofe names were, the New Sun, the New Moon, the Hunter, the Pole-ftar, Eolus, and Lucifer, fays, he obferved twenty-five ports in the ft;raights of Magellan alone, before he entered the South-Sea : he commends them mightily, but particularly he is much pleafed with the twenty-fifth ; for he flaid in it fome time, and gave it his own name : he calls it a noble port, by reafon of its fafa- nefs for (hipping, as alfo for the pleafantnefs of the fields, which, he fays, were all covered with fruit ; which, I fuppofe, were flirawberries, according to the defcription he makes of them. He found there likewife abundance of excellent oyfl;ers, at the mouth of a river, which beautified that port extremely, it falling into it from high mountains. But this retreat did not ferve them long ; for having feen fome very fine coloured birds, they purfued them on Ihore, and hunted them ; which they had no fooner begun to do, but they were aflaulted by a troop of Indians, with clubs in their hands, and fome of them were killed, and the refl: forced to retire to their fliips, and fet fail in hafte ; which is a great mark of the valour with which thofe people engaged them ; for though they had fire-arms, they could not withfl;and the charge. The mofl: fam.ous port in all the coaft, befides that of Valdivia, which we have de- fcribed already, is that of Coquimbo, mentioned in our feventh chapter ; and it deferves all fort of commendation, as well for its lovely bay, where fliips ride as fafe as can be, as alfo for the pleafantnefs of the country about it ; which is one of the mofl: deli- cious of all Chile. The produdls of the country are particularly gold and copper, which is carried from thence to Peru ; for the making of artillery, cafting of bells, and other houfehold furniture. ; The ports alfo of Copiapo and Guafco are efl:eemed, and more defervedly that of Pacudo, which is a private hidden bay, where the fliips of Peru come to load with the hides and tallow of Chuapa ; as alfo with tar and tackling for fliips, which is made in that valley, and is whiter and better than any in Chile, by reafon of the excellent waters they make ufe of in its making. The next good port to thefe, is that of Quintero, where the general of the fix fliips above-named landed ; and it being a place uninhabited, met with no oppofition, bur refrefhed his men with a large fifliing which they made. They do fo commend the place, that they cannot fufficiently (they fay) extol the pleafantnefs of the land, the fweetnefs of the water, the fecurity for (hips, and, in fliort, all forts of conveniencies for human life ; and after thefe many encomiums, the hifl:Orian concludes thus, partus hie nulli fecundus, this port yields to none; and yet this port of Quintero is none of the famous ones of Chile ; by which it may be inferred, that he was but little ac- quainted with the reft. He could not land in them ; for he found them all guarded by the militia, who expefted him ; and though coming to Val Paraifo, he had begun to land fome men, yet, upon advice that the horfe of St. Jago were at hand to hinder the defcent, he took them on board again ; and, failing at midnight, caft anchor at Quintero, where they watered, and cut wood, the admiral himfelf landing with many 1 2 foldiers 72 ovalle's historical relation of chile. foldiers to protefl his men : there they drew up a trench, with a kind of half-moon, to fecure their retreat againft the Spaniards, who began to appear upon the hills ; but they did not ftay for them, but embarking again, followed their courfe towards Peru, not landing any where elfe ; but they commend the land extremely. After thcfe follows the port of Coucon, or Quillota, which ferves to embark the produft of thofe valleys ; and hard by that, the port of Val Paraifo, where are landed all the goods brought for the city of St. Jago : from whence they are diftributed all over its territory, and as far as Cuyo, and Tucuman : this port is every day more and more inhabited ; and there is building a convent of Auftin, friars, which will be of great relief to the fouls of the inhabitants, and of all thofe who go and come, who are not a few ; for this is the port of the greateft commerce with Peru : it is diftant from St. Jago twenty four leagues, all plain and good way, fit for carriage ; and fo all the commodities of both kingdoms are conveyed and exchanged by it. Near the port of Val Paraifo is that of St. Antonio, which is alfo very fafe and good, and is at the mouth of the river Maypo. There is a miftake in authors about this ; for they place the port of Val Paraifo at the mouth of a river, which they make in their maps to come from St. Jago ; which is a very great error, becaufe at Val Paraifo there is no river of any note, but only fprings and fountains, which rife out of the rocks clofe by the fea, which are moft excellent waters. There are alfo others of a coarfer nature, with which the fhips fill their provifion, becaufe they having more body, they refill better at fea againft corruption. There are feveral other ports between that and the Conception, in the bays and mouths of rivers ; but not much ufed, becaufe they are not neceflary ; all thofe valleys from Maule to Quillota fending their commodities to Val Paraifo. I believe, in time, other ports will be emploved, becaufe the produfts of that kingdom multiply apace, and fo people will be willing to feek out the neareft ports for embarking their goods. All the produft from Maule upwards, is carried to the harbour of the Conception, which is the beft bay in all thofe coafts ; and it being a very large one. Providence placed at its entrance the ifland of Quinquina ; under which, as under a mole, fliips are fecured in foul weather. At the largeft entrance of this bay is the port of La Herradura, or Horfe-fhoe, it being in that form ; and oppofite to that is that of St. Vincent ; and a little farther, that of Carnero, called fo for the refrefliment it afforded to one of the fhips of the bifhop of Palencia, who, by order of Charles V., pafl'ed the ftraights of Magellan with fix fail, and having loft their Patache, were forced to the Moluccas. Next to thefe are the ports of Tirva and Quedal, La Baia Chica, that of Puralla, the port of St. Cebrian, that of Sanda Clara, that of St. Domingo, St. Efteran, Los Reyes, that Baixas, that of the Innocents, and many others lefs confiderable, as far VIS the ftraights of Magellan. Befides thefe ports which we have marked upon the Terra Firma, there are feveral others, well known in the iflands of Juan Fernandes, La Mocha, Sandla Maria, in the iflands of Chiloe, Alfie, where the moft frequented are that of Carlemapo, and that called the Enghfh Port, becaufe formerly an Englifh fliip landed there, and the men and fhip, with all its artillery, were made prize. There are alfo feveral other ports in the Archipelago of Chiloe, which I forbear mentioning, becaufe I have not a perfeft account of them. CHAP: ovalle's historical relation of chu>e. 7^ CHAP. XVI. — Of the Fertility of the whole Coajl of Chile. THE abundance and fertility of this kingdom is not only perceived in its valleys and fields, but likewife in its whole coaft, even on the rocks, where the fea beats. It will be hard to make this appear by particulars, becaufe, though in other parts of the world the rocks produce fhell-fifh, yet I do not know that it is in fuch quantity, nor fo large any where as in Chile, nor of fo many different fpecies. Firft, I will fpeak of that which is moft common and intelligible : there grows along the coaft every where an herb not unlike to endivie ; they call it Luche, which they pull from the rocks : it is gathered in the fpring, when it is moft grown ; and being dried in the fun, it is made into loaves, which are looked upon as a great delicacy far from the fea, particularly in Peru, Cuyo, and Tucuman ; for it ferves for many fauces. It grows upon the tops of rocks, fuch as are above the water. At the foot of the rocks are found certain roots, which bring forth a trunk as thick as one's wrift, called Ultecuefte : this they cut, and laying it before the fire, they pare it like a lettuce, or cardoon, or thiftle, but it has a much different tafte. From thefe, the trunks fhoot out certain long cords, of three or four yards long, and fome of about fix or eight fingers in breadth : thefe they call Coehauyo ; and there are two forts of them, which, though they refemble one another, yet the Indians make a great difference between them, referving the good, which they cut and dry, and make provifion of them for Lent ; the others they leave to the fea, which heaps them up upon the fhore, where they lie in heaps very ufelefs. So much for the herbs. Now let us fpeak of the fea fhell-fifh. The beft of this kind are oyfters, both great and fmall, fo much talked of by the Hollanders with great com- mendations : they found them in the ftraights of Magellan ; but the greatefl plenty of them is on the coaft of Coquimbo, where they are very large and delicious ; the lelTer . fort they call Tacas, very much valued too, and taken all along that coaft. But thofe of greateft renown are the oyfters of Chuapa ; in the great ones are bred pearls, as the Dutch fay, and, according to John and Theodore de Brye, they bought fome of the Indians in the ftraights very finely wrought. That which they call Choros is alfo a fine fort of fhell-fifh, and in its fhell, as An- tonio de Herrera fays, there are pearl very white. That fort which I have feen is not fo big ; but fince they are to be found every where, there may be of all forts of them ; for they are caught in abundance, both little, middle fize, and large ones, fome as broad as my hand. The choiceft of them are thofe which have the fi(h of a yellow colour, though the black ones are good too. There is another fhell-fifh, called Manegues, which is in two round fhells, fuch as ferve for models in architecture ; the fifh within is but coarfe meat, but of good fufte- nance. In one kind of thefe, which is the little fort, in opening the fhell, which in the infide is like mother of pearl, when one takes out the meat, one may fee the im- preffion on the fhell, of a purple colour, which reprefents the image of the moft holy virgin, with her mantle, and her child in her arms, which caufes great devotion and comfort ; and, though they all have this impreffion, yet fome have it fo perfed:, that it is wonderful. A fifh they call Locos may alfo be ranked among the fhell-fifh : they call them alfo Afs's Hoof, becaufe they are of that fhape : they are very favoury, but hard and indigeft ; for which reafon they are to be eaten fparingly, though in the drefling of them they macerate them between two ftones, to foften them. I fhould never have done, to go through all the kinds of fhell-fifh ; as likewife of fnails, which are alfo VOL. XIV. L good 74 ovalle's historical relation of chile. good to eat, and are produced on the rocks. There are fome cafl; up by the fea, in fuch quantity, that ihip-loads may be had of them, of fuch variety of figures and colours, that I doubt not but the curious in Europe would value them, and our artifts would make curiofities of them ; but they, for want of fuch artificers, are good for nothing in the Indies, but to make chalk of, by burning them in a furnace ; yet they are in fuch vaft quantities, that the fhore is covered with them, and they make a fine fhew. The fhell-fifh called Picos de Papagayos, are another kind much efteemed : they are fo called, becaufe for their fhape and bignefs they are juft like parrots heads ; and as thefe birds build their nefls on fliore, in fome hollow rocks and caves, fo this fifh breeds in a kind of Itone-work, hollow, like Httle cells, where it grows till it comes to be of the bignefs of thofe heads. • They drefs them in thofe very nefts, which ferve for pot8, and when they are enough, take them out. They are excellent meat. Thofe which they call Kericos, though common in other parts, yet I never faw them fo large as in thofe parts ; and being taken in the increafe of the moon, they have very large tongues, fat, and of about two fingers breadth. The Crabs, Apavicoras, and Praunes, are likewife very good, and of feveral forts and fizes. The Lobfters, and thofe of that kind, are likewife much efteemed ; they breed under the rocks, and are fiflied for, as all the reft, not with nets, but only by the Indians going into the fea up to their middle, and knocking them from the rocks with fticks in their hands. So much for this kind of eatables. There are others which live a little more in the fea, which are of a beautiful form ; fome they call fea-ftars ; fome the fun ; others the moon ; becaufe they are of the form of thofe planets, as they are commonly painted. Thefe may be eaten too ; but they have one very Angu- lar property, which is, to cure the vice of drunkennefs, being reduced to powder, and given in wine to drink ; this is of fo certain an effeft, that thofe, who before they took it had no greater delight than drinking of wine, did afterwards fo abhor it, that they would not touch it, though they were hired. This is a healthy remedy, as well as fure ; and therefore ufed by the Negroes to avoid taking another ; which, though as certain, is very dangerous ; which is, drinking the fweat of a horfe mingled with wine. They fay, this puts thofe who take it, in danger of lofing fome of their fenfes ; though I knew one, who being exceedingly given to drunkennefs, his wife gave him this re- medy without his knowledge, and it did him no other hurt than to make him hate wine, fo that he could not bear the fmell of it ; but, as I faid, the Negroes ufe the powder of the ftar-fiih ; and though I have obferved, that with fome it is not fo effica- cious, but they long for wine again after a little while, yet it is but to repeat the re- medy as foon as that ill inclination prevails again ; and this is commonly fo pradifed upon the Negroes, who are much given to that vice. CHAP. XVn. — Of the various Kinds of Fijh which are fifoed on the Coajl of Chile. LET the whale appear firft, fince by its bignefs it is a kind of king of the fea ; and if where the king is, the court is, we may give that title to the fea of Chile, where there is fuch ftore of whales, that 1 know not any place where they abound more ; and they are accompanied by fuch a court of little fifties of all kinds, that thofe who have na- vigated thofe feas, cannot but mention it with admiration. Among the reft, William Seerten, who came with a fleet through the ftraights, fays, that they met with fo many whales near certain iflands, that they were forced to fail with great care and attention to OVALLE S HISTORICAL RELATION OF CKILE. 75 to avoid them, they being fo many, that they were almoft always in the fhip's way, and endangered the lofs of them, being fo big that they looiced like rocks : they are all along the coafl of Copiapo and Guafco, and are of no fmall profit, by the amber- gris they caft on fhore. The journals of thofe who have paffed the ftraights do mention much of this amber floating on the fea, and therefore no doubt but a great deal of it is on fhore ; but it is loft, for the Indians having no value for it, know it not ; and it is but within thefe twelve years that the Araucana's minded it ; by feeing fome Spanifh foldiers look for it, they did fo too, and found a great deal, and very good, on the coaft. Of the grey fort, which is the beft, they found great pieces of an afh colour, with a nobler and more delicate fmell ; the ordinary forts are yellow and black, and it has a quicker, though not fo fweet a fmell as the grey. I have heard the people of thofe parts fay commonly, that the difference is very accidental, and that it depends only upon being more or lefs prepared by the fun-beams ; and experience feems to con- firm this thought ; for I have obferved that black does in time grow white, by being expofed to the fun in a box ; but if it be laid open, fo as both fun and rain come upon it, the experiment will be more manifeft ; and as for the harftinefs of the fmell, it may be remedied by infufions in rofe-water, expofing it firft to the dews for nine days, and then to the fire, by which means it grows perfed. Though it is known that amber is a thing which the whales caft from them, there is diverfity of opinion about the manner, becaufe fome think that this noble produdl: is formed at the bottom of the fea, or upon fome rocks ; and that the whales eat it for food, and not being able to endure it in their ifomachs, becaufe it is naturally extremely hot, they get to the fhore to caft it up ; others fay, that it is the whales' ex- crements. It is not my bufinefs to decide this difpute. The other great advantage which the whales are of to the country, is the oil they afford after they are dead ; and it is a great deal that one whale will yield ; it ferves for various ufes of life. We do not know that thefe fifties die of a violent death, becaufe their vaft bulk defends them both from men, and all other animals, that may be their enemies ; but yet being fub- jed to pay the common debt of nature, when they find themfelves near death, they draw near the land, and are often caft on ftiore by the fea, which will not bear any corruption in its waters ; and it is ftrange to fee how they are thrown up in great num- bers on thofe coafts. The oil is made by the heat of the fun, and when the weather has confumed the flefti, the ribs and other bones remain white ; and the Indians make ufe of them for feats ; much more conveniency and curiofity might be afforded by them to other workmen. There is another fort of fifti which are found moft on the coaft of Coquimbo, which are not fo big as whales, but yet are very large, and a good fifti to eat, which are the tunny-fifti, and the Albacoras, which the Indians kill with great dexterity ; they go into the fea a good way upon floats of feal-lkins, well fewed together, and blown up like a bladder ; they carry with them a kind of trident with fliarp tongues ; this is faftened to a long, flender, but ftrong rope ; the Indian guides his float near the fi(h he choofes, and then darts it with his trident ; the tunny, as foon as wounded, goes cut to fea like lightning ; the Indian gives him rope enough, and follows him the way that he runs, till the fifh has fpent itfelf by lofs of blood ; and then the Indian draws his rope, and the fifti with it, either dead or dying, and lays it on his float, and he returns to port with his prey rejoicing. There are many other forts of fifties ; one of the moft extraordinary is the flying-fifti, which fly with viings, and follow a ftiip like birds- The lion-fifli is alfo admirable : they are found in great quannties about the fljaights of Magellan, near a port called Port Defire : they are very good to eat, but L a very y6 ovalle's historical relation of chile. very hard to take ; for though they wound them with fhot in many places, yet if thev do not hit them in the head, or the ftomach, they do not yield : they are as big as a colt, and have a lion's head, with a perfeft mane ; which the females of them have not, neither are they above half as big as the males, and have a thinner fkin. Thofe who have failed through the ftraights, talk much of thefe fea-lions, and do alfo mention many other forts of fiflies which they took there, fome of fixteen feet long, very favoury and good to eat. Antonio de Herrera fays, that there are fifhes taken in Santa Maria, out of whofe eyes they take a fort of coarfe pearl, which have a glofs like the true ones, and are worn by the women ; and if, as they are foft, they were a little hard, they would be better than pearls. The fea-wolves or feals, which are found on all the coafts, are innumerable. 1 have feen whole rocks covered with them, and they lay even upon one another, fo as fome of them rolled down into the fea again, there not being room for fo many : they are as big as calves, and make a noife like them. Antonio de Herrera, in the voyage of Magellan, fays, that in the river of the Crofs, in the Straights, they took one fo large, that without his head, fkin and fat, he weighed nirieteen Callillan Arrobas. The Indians take them for their Ikins, which are very hard and ftrong, and fome eat their flefli. As to the plenty of the ordinary filh of thofe feas, the authors already cited fpeak very advantageoufly of their kinds, parti- cularly William Scowten, who coming with his fleet to the ifland of Juan Fernandes, in thirty-three degrees and forty-eight minutes, the quantity of fifli they met with was fo great, that in a very little time they catched a great quantity of Robalos, which is the beft and moft wholefome fifh of all thofe parts. They did not take them with nets, becaufe they had not time to land, but with hooks at fea, by the Ihip's fide, and that as faft as they could throw in and pull up. What I myfelf have feen, is in the great lake of Rapel, all the fides of it covered with Pejereges, by the vaft quantity of them which came upon the coaft, as the droves of pilchards by the bay of Conception, and in Chiloe, fo that they take them with blankets. I have feen the fame droves of tunny-fifli, which come leaping over one another's backs, as if there were not room for them ; and indeed, that climate being fo favourable to multiplication in all animals on fliore, as fhall be fliewed in its proper place, it cannot well be otherwife as to the fifhes. CHAP. XVIII. — 0///;^ Birds of Chile. THE birds and fifhes feem to be brothers of the fame Venter, the Author of nature having created them both out of the element of water ; and therefore, to difpatch all the creatures of this country, having treated of the firfl, it feems that the chain of an orderly narration obliges us to fay fomething of the others. To fpeak generally, it may be truly faid of the air of that hemifphere, that it has a great advantage over the earth, though fo fertile, fo rich, and fo delicious, as we have reprefented it ; for though it is true, that it now produces the animals and fruits of Europe, with fuch an increafe as is wonderful, yet it cannot be denied, that before the Spaniards carried thither the feeds and animals which are now fo multiplied, (for they had them not in any fort, though perhaps others which fupplied the want of them,) the air, without being at all enriched by the acceffion of foreigners, has maintained always fuch an abundance of the volatile kind, that it needed no fupplies froni Europe, but rather has many to make up any one defeft. To ovalle's historical relation of chile. 77 To begin with the king of them all, the eagle : there are there abundance of them ; thofe which are called royal or imperial have been feen here only twice ; firft, when the Spaniards firft entered that kingdom ; and the fecond time in the year 1640, when the Araucanos fubmitted their untamed necks to their God and the king ; they inter- preting this as one of the figns of God Almighty's will to incline them to take that refolution which they then took. As for the ordinary eagles, which do not differ much from the others, they have always been and are ftill in the country very common. There are likewife bred falcons, fo large and ftrong, that for their beauty they have been carried from thence, though fo far, as a prefent to the king of Spain ; and they are commonly carried to Peru, particularly that kind which are called Primas, or firft, though thofe called fecond are very large too. There are befides, all other birds of rapine and prey ; and of the finging bii'ds, there are linnets, bull-finches, nightingales, blackbirds, and many others, who form fome a bafs, and fome a tenor, with all the other parts of harmony, beyond belief, particularly in fummer under the ftiades of trees. The birds for game are herons, partridges, wild pigeons, thrufties, turtles, parrots, wild ducks of a thoufand forts, fome of one colour, and fome of another, and all very good. The donieftic tame fowls are hens, ducks, geefe, turkeys ; and that nothing may be wanting, fwallows in fummer, which go away in winter, as they do in Europe, to warmer climates ; fcreech-owls, and other night-birds ; as alfo bats. Thefe are the birds of the European kind, which are found in thofe parts, as well as I can remember ; and there is hardly a bird here in Europe, that I obferve in the fields, that I have not obferved the like fomewhere in Chile, with very little difference. "Who now can defcribe the variety of native birds of that climate ? which are in fuch variety and abundance, that people are fain to guard their vineyards from them as foon as the grapes begin to ripen ; and yet it is impoffible to hinder them from doing a great deal of mifchief, they being fo nimble, and having fo fecure a retreat, though all forts of inventions, fuch as guns, crofs-bows, flings, fcare-crows, are put in ufe ; fo that if any are negligent, they may be fure to find their vintage made to their hand. And this mifchief is not only for their vineyards, but likewife for all feeds, which is fain to be watched after it is fowed, till it fprouts ; and as foon as the wheat and maize begin to ripen, the guards muft be renewed ; for there comes whole armies of birds to attack them, and do them as much mifchief as if they were Xerxes' armies. In particular the parrots are fo voracious and greedy, and have a bill that cuts like a razor : they come in flocks of fuch an extent, that when they rife they cover the air, and fill it with fuch a confufion of cries, that I cannot find any thing to compare it to. This kind of birds is bred all over Chile, in the mountains and in the Cordillera ; and it is wonderful to fee how exaftly they come to an hour, as if they were called by a bell; or had fome notice where and when the fruits were ripe, and in feafon for them to enjoy them : they come down from the mountains in the evening ; and the noife which they make in flying, though they fly high, is fuch, that one would think them clofe by : they have a ftirill clear voice, and they fly all fcreaming at once, fo that their noife is very loud : they are all green and yellow, and have a blue circle about their neck, and very good to eat, particularly the young ones. Thofe years which are to prove rainy, as the natives obferve, as foon as the wea- ther grows cool, before the winter begins, one may fee every evening, for many days, great quantities of crows come down from the Cordillera into the plains : they come about an hour before fun-fet in fquadrons, forming a triangle or pyramid, the point of which is led by one fingle one, before whom none dare go : the figure they 9 make yS ovalle's historical relation of chile. make is moft regular, with great correfpondency to each other, as If they were fixed in the air, and immoveable, fo equal and well-concerted is their flight. There is likewife a bird which we call Taltales, or Galinafos ; it is like a duck, but has bigger wings ; they are either black or browTi, and very voracious of carrion. In the time of flaughtering, which is every year in Chile of moft beafts, there is a great deal of flefli loft ; then thefe birds come, as if one had founded a charge to them, and fall upon the carrion with fo much greedinefs; that ha\^ing eaten their fill, they cannot rife again, and are eafily knocked on the head with fticks ; the bones of their legs are valued to make fciflars, and their quills, which are as thick as one's finger, ferve for harpficals, and other curiofities. Out of this flaughtering-time they die with hunger ; but among all the ways they have of maintaining themfelves, their way of hunting young goats and lambs is admirable : they fit upon high trees, and from thence they fpy the flocks of flieep and goats, watching till any of the young ones ftray from the guard of its dam, as they often do, either ftaying behind to feed, or climbing fome rock : this the Taltale quickly feeing, and that the young-one is far from the defence either of the fhepherd or old-one, it leaps upon it, and the firft thing it does, is to peck out its eyes, and eat its brains ; which it does fo quick, that though it cry, and the fliepherd or mother comes to its relief, it is too late. Very like to thefe are another fort of bird, both as to bignefs, colour and fhape, and its difpofition to prey ; they call them Peuques, only they are fomething lefs, and of a nicer diet, being pleafed with nothing but hens or chickens, which they take very dexteroufly ; they are fo bold and nimble, as to get into a hen-rooft, and carry away their prey, even in prefence of the owners, without being flopped or prevented. CHAP. XIX. — The fame matter is putfued, and the flying of Hawks treated of. AMONGST the great number of birds which are bred in the lakes and ponds, and on the fea-fide, which are of great variety, none are more remarkable than the birds called Flamencos ; they are white and fcarlet, bigger than turkeys, but fo long- legged that they walk through a lake with great gravity, the water not touching their feathers by a foot or two : the Indians delight in making works of their white and fcarlet feathers, for their dances and their feafts. There is another bird, called the Child-bird, becaufe it looks like a fwaddled child with its arms at liberty : I have not feen them any where but at fea : perhaps they are the fame, called Penguins, of which frequent mention is made by thofe who pafs the ftraights of Magellan : they are generally painted in the maps ; and they fay, there are abundance of them in thofe parts, and that they are good meat. There are other birds which furnifh the tufts of feathers, called Herons-feathers, which though fo narrow, yet are fo valued, that formerly every feather was worth two rials : thofe which grow under their wings are larger and better, though thofe on their heads, which they wear as aigrettes, are very fine. There are but few of this kind of birds ; for they do not increafe fo much as others. There are more of that kind called Garcolas, which ferve for foldiers' feathers, and other ornaments. There are many others of great variety of colours, of which the Indians ufe to make their ornaments, called Mallengues, which are made for the head like a garland of moft fine colours of wool, and in that they flick a plume of feathers, for their dances and days of rejoicing. The ovalle's historical relation of chile. 79 The birds called by the Indians, Voycas, are very famous among them, in whofe notes, at certain times and places, they find great myfteries, prognofticating by them, either their own, or their children's, or their friend's death or ficknefs, or other mif- fortune ; and they remain with great apprehenfion and fear. The Spaniards call thefe birds Pechicolorados, that is, marked on the breaft ; becaufe there is no fcarlet deeper, nor brighter, than the red on their bread : the other feathers of their wings and body are brown. There are other very little ones, called Pinguedas, whofe body is not much bigger than an almond : thefe live upon flowers ; and that they may come at the honey of them, nature has given them a bill, which, when it is fhut, is like a needle to fow with ; and for this reafon they feed flying, like bees, from flower to flower, without lighting but very feldom on a branch of it, and that very flightly. Thefe birds are of the greatefl beauty imaginable ; for if they were made of poliflied gold, they could not flilne brighter : they have a green mingled with this gold colour. The males are diftinguilhed from the females, in that they have on the head a lively orange colour, which is like fire. Thofe on the other fide of the Cordillera are yet more beautiful, becaufe their tail is alfo of the colour of their head j and though they have fo little a body, their tail is a foot long, and two inches broad. There is likewife a very odd bird, to which the Spaniards have given the name of Wood-Pecker ; becaufe, though they are but little, they have fo ftrong and fliarp a bill, that they form their nefts with it in the trees, forming a hollow place fit for them as exactly as if they had an inflrument to do it. Of thefe I have feen but few ; but there are great numbers of a kind of birds, called Condores, which are as white as ermine, and of their fkins they make muffs, it being of a very foft touch, and ex- tremely warm ; but the bellies of the buzzards are much more fo, being admirable to make ftomachers to cover the pit of the fliomach, and help digeflion. I have not feen fuch variety of birds on the other fide of the Cordillera ; and the caufe, I believe, is the drynefs of the land, and the want of that fhelter of woods and groves which are on Chile fide ; but in thofe plains, called the Pampas, there are Fran- colins to be found, which are a fort of wild hens, and as big, but much better meat, ajid of a higher relilh. There are likewife oftriches, which are a mighty bird, and very numerous there. They often find their nefts, and in them fuch a quantity of eggs, as one neft will feed a great conipany ; one of them alone being beaten and fried, makes a pancake big enough to dine feveral people : their feathers are employed for umbrel- las to keep off the fun, and other good ufes. It is a pleafant fight to fee the taking of the Francolins : the Indian, with a ftring made at one end into a running knot or noofe, at the other, 'having a little piece of fharp cane faftened to it, goes out to find them, which, when he has done, he draws gently near, fo as not to fright his game ; when he is at a due diftance, he begins to go round the bird, making with the cane feveral circles over his head. The Fran- colin is of its own nature a very fearful bird, and fimple, and dares not rife, becaufe he thinks he is encompaifed round, but goes into the middle of the circle ; where the Indian leffening ftill his rounds, follows it, fo that at laft it fquats down upon rhe ground, and lets the Indian put the noofe over its head ; which, when he has done, touching it on the wing with the Iharp end of the cane, the bird flies up, and draws* the noofe clofe, and fo is catched like the filhes by an angling-rod. It is not fo eafy to catch the oflriches ; for though they do not fly, yet they have fuch large wings, that though a greyhound be very fwift, if the bird has law of him, he will hardly overtake him ; but if by chance he comes up with him by furprife, or otherwife, it is wonderful to fee the art the oftrich ul'es to avoid his teeth ; for 1 1 when f 80 ovalll's historical relation of chile. when the dog is juft going to feize, the oftrich lets down one of his wings, and fixes it to the ground, covering with it its whole body : the greyhound thinking he has him fure, takes hold with open mouth ; but he fills it only with feathers, and is cheated ; for immediately the oftrich, before the dog can clear his mouth, fets a running, and gets a good length before him ; and often efcapes, if the greyhound does not make extraordinary hafte to overtake it. This is a very diverting fport ; but that which is ufed in Chile with falcons is much more fo : not to fly partridges, for that is a known fport every where ; but with another fort of bird, which the Indians call Quulteu, from the found of its note when it fmgs, which founds fo. Thefe are as big as hens, and have very large wings, and upon their wings they have, in the joining place, provided by nature for their defence, certain fharp points. The Spaniards call thefe birds Friers, either becaufe they always go two and two, or three and three, or becaufe the colour and order of their feathers is fo, that one would really think they have a hood and a frock. For this fport it is not enough to have one Falcon, but there muft be two, and thofe very well taught, and dexterous to affift one another. There ufes to be very good company to fee the engagement, as we may call it ; for it is worth feeing. Coming then to the place thefe birds haunt, which is generally fome meadow or watery ground, (for that they never forfake, their laft defence being in the water, as foon as they are fprung) one at a time, the fportfman flies one falcon at them, who, as if he minded not his game, endeavours to get as high as he can, and get the wind of his prey, who, at the fame time, does the fame thing, and contends for place with his enemy ; fo that they both get almoft out of fight ;. but at laft the falcon having the better wing prevails. "When he has got advantage enough over him, he comes down upon him like Hghtning ; but the Ouulteu defends himfelf, either by avoiding the blow, or by oppofmg the armed points of his wings ; upon which often theun wary hawk is wounded in the breaft. When the fportfman fees the engagement laft too long, fearing his hawk may tire, or be balked before the viftory declares for him, he loofes his other falcon to help the firft, which being frefti, foon joins his companion, and both together fall upon the Quulteu, but not at the fame time, left they fliould hinder one another : one gives him a blow, and then the other another ; and fo, though he make a good defence, he is forced to yield, which he does, by making away for the water, where he has his laft retreat to defend his life : here he expects his enemies upon his back, with the points of his armed wings turned towards them : the Falcon defpifmg the danger, comes down with all his force, and feizing her with one foot, tears her to pieces ; but it is not without receiving fometimes dangerous wounds. The viftory does not always co'ft fo dear ; for that is according to the ftrength of the contenders. I omit the ftiooting of wild-fowl in the fens and waters, which is neverthelefs very entertaining, as are likewife the Indians' ways with nets, noofes, arrows, night-lights ; nay, the manner of catching the Falcons themfelves is as diverting : it is done with fine nets, in which they involve them, that -they may not hurt their wings. This is fufficient about the birds ; and fince we are in the region of the air, fa near heaven, let us fay fomething of it before we come down to the earth again. ovalle's historical relation of chile. 8 1 CHAP. XX. — Ofihe Heaven^ and Stars, which are proper to the Kingdom and Region of Chile. IT is the common opinion of all thofe that have feen and dwelled in Chile, that its foil and heaven, if they have their equal, have not their fuperior in the world ; and though fome fay the ftars of the artick pole are larger than thofe of the antarctick, yet as to their brightnefs and beauty, and the light they give, and as to their numbers, with the cleamefs of the heavens where they are, there is none but muft own the advantage on the fide of the antarctick. We may give, as a natural reafon of this, the temper of the climate, both as to the air and earth ; for though there are in it fo many rivers, as we have obferved, yet they being rapid, and fwift in their courfe, do not caufe overmuch humidity by their flay, but afford only what is neceffary for its fertility ; and, of the two extremes, the country is rather dry than moifl, particularly as far as thirty-four or thirty-five degrees, as is manifeftly made out by two experi- ments : firft, by the facility with which all wounds are cured, which ufe to be much longer in wet countries ; and, fecondly, it is proved from the habitations and houfes, where the beft apartments are reputed to be on the firfl floor, they being looked upon in fummer for coolefl, and in winter for warmeft ; and, though they are watered every day in the year, and the floors mofl commonly but of earth, not at all upon vaults, yet they are never unhealthy ; and there is no need of board-flooring, or mats, let the wanter be never fo (harp. This is a convincing argument, that the country inclines to drynefs rather than to humidity ; from whence it follows, that the fun raifes fewer vapours ; and therefore the air being clearer, the brightnefs of the ftars is more confpicuous ; and for this reafon the fun fets and rifes fo glorious, cafting out refplendent beams of light, which is not fo on the other fide of the Cordillera ; for there I have feen the fun pretty high, and its whole body vifible, and yet no ways dazzling, the vapours of the earth taking away the radiant beauty of its beams. The experience of this is yet more admirable to thofe who fail from Peru for Chile ; for though they keep out a great way from land, yet they know prefently by the horizon when they come to the height of Chile ; for they begin to fee it all difengaged from clouds and ferene, gilded and glorious, and its beauty increafing upon them every day, as they gain more heighth towards the pole. On the contrary, when they fail for the line from Chile, the nearer they grow to the tropick, that light and fplendor grows duller and duller ; fo that in my voyage for Panama, I faw all the horizon muddy, fad, and clouded, which continued till I got to the Havanna ; where being in eighteen degrees north latitude, the horizon cleared up and grew every day better and better, till we got to Spain. So much for the cleamefs and beauty of the heavens and ftars, which may be con- firmed by all thofe who have feen the place ; but it is not of the bignefs of the ftars. The aftrologers pretend, that the contemplation of them, and their meafure, belongs entirely to their art, and underftanding beft the difpofition of the celeftial fphere ; but, in my judgment, they who can beft fpeak of this matter, are thofe vi'ho have feen both poles, as is well obferved by John and Theodore de Bry, in the eighth and ninth part of their twelve curious books, where they relate variety of hiftories, obfervations, and voyages, which have been in the North and South America, as far as the ftraights of Magellan. They report then the opinions of learned men, who, in failing on the South-Sea, obferved what I fhall here produce, tranflated faithfully from their elegant Latin into our vulgar tongue, in thefe words : VOL. XIV. M " The 8» ovalle's historical relation of chile. " The learned of our nation, who have failed on the South-Sea, do relate to us many things of that fky, and its flars, as well of their number, as beauty and bignefs ; and my opinion is, that the ftars we fee here, are no ways preferable to the meridional ones ; but rather do affirm, without difpute, that thofe ftars which are near the antarctick pole are more in number, and brighter and bigger." He adds, befides, fpeaking of the ftars of the conftellation of the Cruzero, that their fplendors and beauty are extraordinary, and that the Via Laftea, or Milky- Way, is much brighter in thefe parts. This is all from thofe authors. Peter Theodore, a moft fkilful pilot and aftronomer, relates in particular the ftars of that hemifphere, and the fourteen figures or conftellations they make. The firft is the Cameleon, which contains ten ftars ; the fecond is the Indian Afpick, rhade up of four ftars ; the third is the Flying-Fifli, which is made up of feven ; the fourth called the Fifh Dorado, is compofed of five ; the fifth is called the Hydra, and is of fifteen ; the bird Toncan. which is the fixth, has eight ftars ; and the Phoenix, which is the feventh, has fourteen ; the Crane has thirteen, which is the eighth ; in Noah's Dove, which is the ninth, there appears eleven ; the Indian Sagittary, which is the tenth, has twelve ; the Peacock, which is the eleventh, is compofed of fixteen; the Bird of Paradife, other- wife called Maaucodiata, has twelve ; the thirteenth is the Triangle, and contains five ; and the laft is the Cruzero, in which are four, which make a crofs, with a little one clofe by it, which makes the foot of the crofs. And though this Cruzero is the guide of thofe who fail in the South-Sea, as the Cynofura is to thofe who navigate the North- Sea, yet it is not immediately at the pole, but thirty degrees from it ; but there being no ftars of that bignefs near it, it is made ufe of for that effeft, but not for the needle ; for that in either fea, whether fouth or north latitude, always turns to the north, though when one is in the South-Sea, the whole globe of the earth, or the beft part of it, is between them and the north, according to the circle that the Cruzero makes. The fixed point of the pole feems to be between two, as jt were, great clouds, though they are not fuch, but clufters of ftars, not well diftinguifliable, fuch as compofe the Via Laftea ; and they are always fi.xt, without ftirring ; and when the heavens are clear, they are brighter, and better feen. There are other ftars nearer thefe clouds than the Cruzero ; but not being fo big, there is little notice taken of them, but only of the Cruzero ftars, which are indeed very beautiful, and fliine with great live- linefs. CHAP. XXI, — Of the Animals, as well proper, as new comers to the Kingdom of Chile ; and alfo of the Bezoarfioties. TILL tne Spaniards came to thefe American parts, there never had been feen in them either cows, horfes, flieep, hogs, houfe-cats, nor rabbits tame or wild : nor dogs, except thofe called cur-dogs ; but no hounds, greyhounds, nor other dogs for game, either by land or water ; no maftift's, nor little dogs, which we call lap-dogs ; no goatg, nor afies : but as foon as the Spaniards were fettled in Chile, and found the land fo proper for the breed of cattle and flocks, they have increafed them to a degree of iuperfluity ; fo that there is not only enough for the fupport of human life ; but alfo for thofe animals who are carnivorous ; for, as we have feen above, in the flaughtering time, much flelh lies wafte in the fields, fo that it is neceflary to burn it, and throw it into lakes and rivers, to hinder its corrupting the air. That which in other parts is called a calamity and defolation of the country, which is a murrain among cattle, in 1 1 Chile ovalle's historical relation of chile. 8^ Chile is thought a neceffary purge of the too great abundance of it. This may feem a paradox ; but yet is founded upon experience, becaufe the cattle increafing as it does, and the land being fo good, that it fattens them to a wonderful degree, (there being often taken out of one cow an hundred and fifty pounds weight of tallow, each pound of fixteen ounces,) there is enough to do to get a vent for it. The fame may be faid of the hides ; for though Peru, where the belt: part of the confumption is made, is fo great, yet fuch is the produft of Chile, that it wants another Peru to confume it ; for this reafon it is a gain to lofe the increafe of the cattle, for then the profit is more, with lefs trouble and cofl of fervants. In the beginning of the fettlement in Chile, Don Antonio de Herrera fays, that horfes were commonly fold for a thoufand pieces of eight a horfe ; and Gareilaflb fays, that at firft a horfe did not ufe to be fold in Peru at all, except upon the death of the owner, or upon his returning to Spain ; and in that cafe they were fold for four, five, or fix thoufand pieces of eight a horfe. He fays, he himfelf knew a foldier who had an excellent horfe, and that a negro going one day by with him in his hand, a gentleman, who faw them, fent to offer the foldier ten thoufand pieces of eight for the horfe and negro, which he refufed with contempt : but fince that time horfes have multiplied fo, that there being not people enough to feed **id tend them, they are fallen extremely. The cows too have increafed fo as to cover the fields ; and it is a wonderful thing to fee in thofe great plains of Tucuman and Buenos Ayres, vaft herds of them feeding, without any other mafter than the firft that will take them if he can. I have feen in Chile, in the territory of St. Jago, horfes already drefled for war, fold for two crovras a-piece, to fupply the army, and yet for fhape, courage, and good qualities, they yield to no Neapolitan horfe I ever faw ; no^ nor to the Andaluzes, from whom they are defcended ; for they have had no reafon to degenerate in fo good a land. The cows too, which were at firft out of all price, I have feen fold for a crown a piece, and the calves for half a crown : the fheep, fuch as I have feen bought in flocks for Cuyo and Tucuman, have been fold for three- pence, or three-halfpence a piece. Theodore, and John de Bry, do mention fome author who fays, that rats were likewife ftrangers to Chile, and were carried thither by an Antwerp Ihip that paffed the ftraights of Magellan : they muft not mean the ordinary houfe-rats and mice, but thofe great ones which have a large tail, and are about a foot long : they are called Pericotes, and are very mifchievous. This fhip, without doubt, took port in fome of thofe of Chile, where it left thefe animals, fo prejudicial and hai'd to deftroy ; for they refift the cats, and it is a ftout one that can kill them. But it is a wonderful thing to obferve, that though in fea-towns the magazines, fhops, and warehoufes, are full of them, yet they never go further into the land, which they might eafily do, by fo much carriage as the commerce of thofe parts requires. I' believe the air of the Cordillera does not agree with them, and fo may have killed thofe which have been carried by chance with goods ; for I do not remember I ever faw one in St. Jago, nor in any town far from the fea fide. Among the animals that are proper to Chile, the firft may be reckoned thofe which are called the fheep of that country : they are of the fhape of camels, not fo big, nor vaft, and without the bunch that camels have : they are white, black, brown, and fome are afh-coloured. The authors above cited fay, that anciently they ferved to plow the land in fome parts, before there were oxen in it ; nay, in the relation of George Spilberg and his fleet, it is faid, the Dutch paiTing by the ifland of Mocha, faw the Indians ufe them in that work. M 2 They 84 ovalle's historical relation of chile. They are made ufe of at this time in fome parts, for carriage of wine, wheat, maize, and other provifions ; and I remember to have feen them about thirty years ago ferve to carry water at St.Jago from the river to the houfes, for the ufe of the family ; but now they are not at all employed there in this kind of labour, there being fuch quan- tities of mules and affes for all that fervice. Thefe fheep have their upper lip flit, with which they do, as it were, fpit at thofe who vex them ; and the children, who ufe to do it, when they fee them ready to fpit, run away ; for they know, and it is a common truth, that wherever their fpitting falls, it caufes a fcab ; and having a very long neck, about three feet long, they ufe thefe defenfive arms the better. Their wool is extremely valued ; for of it are woven cloaks or mantles fo fine, that they look like camblet : they govern them by a kind of bridle, which they put through holes in their ears, and fo by pulling the reigns, turn them which way they will : they kneel down to be loaded, and when the loading is well fitted and faftened, they rife and carry it very gravely. There are Hkewife natural to that country a fort of little rabbits, called by the Indians Pegues, which they eat with much pleafure : they are wild. The taking of them is very good fport : for they carry water in great tubs to their holes ; and though they are very deep, and have fecret iffues and correfpondencies with each other under ground, to avoid being purfued by the hunters or their dogs, yet the water ovitvomes them ; and while they fly from it, the Indians watch for them at their other holes, and with their dogs take them as they come out to avoid the water. There are another fort of little rabbits, which are like thefe, but they are tame, and the Indians call them Cuyes, which are alfo very good meat : they are of pretty colours, and fpotted : they are very common every where. The fquirrels are not fo ; and I do not know they are to be found any where in Chile, but in the valley of Guafco : they are grey or afh-coloured, and their fliins are mightily valued for furs, for their warmth and finenefs of the touch. The animals called Guanacos, Chamois, or wild goats, are very hke thefe country fheep, as well in their Ihape as motions ; but they are of a different colour ; for they are red, of a clear colour : they never can be tamed, but go in flocks, feeding in the fields ; and it is as much as a very fwift horfe can do to overtake them running ; and if they have the leafl ftart of them, they feem to play with them ; for by an eafy gallop, they make the horfe llrain ; in which they are much helped by their long legs, for by them they gain more ground at every reach : yet it is very ealy to catch the young ones, or thofe that are not ufed to be hunted ; becaufe being fo tall, and their bones, becaufe of their youth, not w^ll knit, they are eafily tired ; fo that by following a flock of them on horfeback with dogs, (and they go three or four hundred in a flock,) the young ones are forced to lag behind, and fome are killed by the dogs, fome are knocked on the head with a flick by the hunter. I have feen them bring thus three or four dead at a time. And this is not only a pleafant, but a ufeful fport ; for the flefh of thefe young ones is like kid's flefh, and is eaten frefli : but that of the old ones is not fo, but dried and fmoaked : it is the befl of that kind in the world. Thefe creatures breed, in a bag they have under the belly, the bezoar-ftones, which are fo valued againft poifon, and malignant fevers, good to rejoice the heart, and other admirable effedts. The matter out of which they are made, are herbs of great %'irtue, which thefe animals eat to cure themfelves of any thing they ail, and preferve themfelves from the poifon of any venomous creature, as ferpents, or poifbnous plants, and other accidents. Thefe 0%'.1LLE*S HISTORICAL RELATION OF CHILE. 85 Thefe flones are found in the oldeft Guanacos ; and the reafon is, that their natural heat not being altogether fo ftrong as the heat of the young ones, they cannot convert into their fubilance all the humour of the herb they take to remedy their indifpofition ; and fo nature has provided, that what remains may be depofited in that bag, and be made a ftone to cure in men the fame infirmities : according to this notion one mav obferve, that the ftone is compofed of feveral coats, fome thicker and fome thinner, according to the quantit}' of matter that is gathered together at each time, juft as a wax candle is made by feveral coats given it at feveral times to form its bignefs. It is likewife a thing well experienced, that in thofe countries, where there are moft vipers and other poifonous animals, thefe ftones are raoft plentiful : and the caufe is manifeft, becauie thefe animals, and the deer-kind, do beat fo much ground for their liveUhood, they are more expofed to venomous creatures, which, when trod upon, wound them forely, and they run naturally to their remedy in thefe herbs ; and as they do this more frequently in thofe parts where they receive raoft damage, by confequence there are more of thele ftones engendered. From hence it happens, that in thofe parts of Cuyo, there is a greater quantity of thefe bezoar-ftones to be had, than in that which we call properly Chile ; for there are many vipers and poifonous creatures, of which Chile is verv' free, as we have faid : and yet there are taken fome ftones here, but the greateft part come from Cuyo ; to which likewife it is of fome confideration, that there are bred more Guanacos and ftags than in Chile ; for that countr)' being not fo populous, and having fuch vaft plains, thefe animals have room enough for food and for increafe : but it is not fo towards the fea-fide of Chile, for that being very populous, and full of cattle and flocks, there is no room for the wild ones, except upon the edges of the Cordillera, from whence they come down into the plains fometimes. The bignefs of thefe ftones is in proportion to the animal that breeds them ; the moft certain rule is, that if thev are httle, there are manv in the baa:, and fewer if large ; and fometimes, when ven,- large, there is but one. I carried with me to Italy one that weighed thirt)'-two ounces ; and yet that -n-as not it which made it the moil valuable, but its N-irtues and fliape, for it was a perfect oval, as if it had been turned by a turner : the Indian who found it had fevenr\- pieces of eight for it ; becaufe when a great ftone is found, it is not fold by weight, but according to the eftimation of the owner, and ihe bigger the dearer. The virtue of thefe bezoar-ftones is very well known and experienced ; and people of quahty take them, not only in the time of their ficknefs, but alfo in health, to pre- ferve it : the way of ufing them is to put them whole into the veffel that holds either the wine or water, or into the glafs out of which one drinks, and the longer they ftay in, the more \-irtue they communicate. And if a perfon be not much indifpofed, there is no need of ufing them any other way ; but if any one fhould be attacked by any diftemper of confequence, and be fick at heart, or be affected with melancholy fits, it would have more \Trtue to grate a little of the ftone to powder, and drink it ; whatfoever way it is taken, it comforts the heart, purifies the blood ; and the ufmg of it is looked upon as a prefervative againft all infirmities. There are alfo bred in the Pampas, or the plains of Cuyo, many hares ; and one fort, called Chirichinchos, whofe fleih taftes like that of fucking pigs. But the greateft increafers are the Guanacos, and the deer. It has been faid already, that in Chile there are but few, for the reafons alledged ; but there is great quantit)* of •nild cows and wild mares, which came at firft from fome which went aftray, by the negligence of 10 the 86 ovalle's historical relation of chile. owners ; and being once in thofe mountains, they have increafed fo wonderfully, that they are become a game, and many go to kill them, or take them for profit. CHAP. XXII. — 0///^^ Trees growing in Chile. AMONGST other obligations which the land of America has to Spain, one is, the having enriched it with fo many noble plants, trees, and feeds, which it wanted ; for before the Spaniards conquered it, there were not in all America either vines, fig-trees, olive-trees, apple-trees, melicotoons, peaches, auberges, quinces, pears, pomegranates, cherries, apricots, plumbs, oranges, lemons, citrons, nor almonds. As for feeds, there was neither wheat, barley, nor oats, anifeed, coriander-feed, cumin, nor oreganum, lint- feed, flax, peafe, beans, nor cabbage, lettice, raddiflies, cardoons, chicory, nor indive, berenguenas, gourels, melons, cucumbers, parfley, garlick, nor onion. But inftead of thefe trees, fruits, and plants, the Author of nature had provided them with others of great ufe and good rehfli, fuch as maize, all over America : Frifoles, Las Papas el Madi, Los Capallos, and fome others, are proper only to Peru, and the land within the tropicks ; the Camotes, Guayabas, Mammeyes, Plantanos, Zipitapotes, Anones, Nifperos, Aquacates, Pinnas, Guanabanas, Papayas, Pitabayas, and many others, which, though highly commended, do not generally come up to the relifh of the European fruits. And the bread and wine has been a fingular addition to them, fuch as the In- dians value more than all their produft, and particularly the wine, which is their chief delight ; as for bread, they value it, but not fo much. Though America is obliged to Europe for all this addition, yet Chile much more, as having the greateft advantage by it, and with more plenty than any other part of the new world ; for though all that we have named of European plants are to be found fomewhere, yet not all every where ; for in fome there grows corn, and not wine ; in others, both thofe, and not oil ; in others, neither corn, wine, nor oil, but other fruit- trees. The fame thing may be faid of the animals to eat ; fome have beef, others mut- ton, others pork, which on the continent is a delicacy, and is given to the fick ; fo that running over all America, we may find that this communication of new creatures has reached fome parts for one thing, and fome for another. But as for the kingdom of Chile, it may be faid to have been totally obliged and enriched ; for all the trees, feeds, plants, and all the animals, &c. of Europe, are to be found there, and that almoll in every part of it, for it is rare to fee any thing take in one place, and not in another ; but if it does, they may eafily have it from their neighbours, if it be not fo good, or not at all with them. In the third chapter of this book, we have already mentioned how all thefe Euro- pean fruits and feeds take in Chile, but we can never enough dilate upon that fubjed : it will hardly be believed by moll people, particularly by thofe, who, never having been out of their own country, are fo in love with it, as not to imagine there can be any equal to it, much lefs exceed it ; and we relating things fo dillant, of which we cannot bring ocular witnefles, we are the more liable to contradiftion ; but fince we are writing a hiftory, we muft fpeak the truth as we know it, and it really is. Some trees do not exceed in bignefs thofe of Europe of the fame kind, as cherry- trees, quince-trees, almond, peach, and pomegranate-trees, olive, orange, lemon, and citron-trees, melicotoons ; which laft, in Tucuman, are neverthelcfs very large, and to that degree, that three or four men fometimes cannot embrace the body of one of thofe trees. I have feen fome apple-trees as big as elm-trees ; the pear-trees are yet bigger, ovalle's historical relation of chile. 87 bigger, and much more the mulberry-trees, and walnut-trees ; though as to their fruit, it is not fo large as that of Europe, the nuts having the fhell as thick again, and by confequence lefs meat. This is as to the garden-trees brought from Europe. As for the trees natural to that country, they are of two forts, the one is fruit-trees, the other not : of the firft, I find only three kinds or fpecies of thofe, which are likewife in Europe, which are the avellanos, or hafel-niit, the pine-tree, and the algar- rabos, or cod-tree. Of thofe which are not properly fruit-trees, there are the laurel, the oak, the willow, the cyprefs, which are in great abundance, and very large ; out of thefe they have boards very fit for boxes and trunks, which are no ways pieced, but of one plank ; the doors and coverings of the churches are alfo of this cyprefs- wood. Thefe trees grow mod commonly in the precipices of the Cordillera, which being very deep, the cyprelTes are extremely large and tall, for they Ihoot up till their tops can be warmed by the fun-beams ; fo that they are as ftraight as a wax-candle, and of fo fine a fmell and perfume, that though it be 10 plentiful, it bears a good price, and a greater in Peru, to which it is carried, as well as the cedar, which does not fell fo well, becaufe there are more of them. Thefe cedar-trees are v/ithout comparifon bigger, and have larger heads than the cyprefs-trees, and of one of them are made feveral planks ; but more of this when we come to fpeak of the ifland of Chiloe, for there they are larger than in any other part. The colour of the wood is red when it is firft worked, but in time, and by degrees, it lofes that lively colour, and comes to be of a kind of walnut-tree colour ; the planks are of the fafhion of cedar planks, not fo fubjefl: to the worm, but more eafy to work. The oak alfo yields very large planks, for they thrive exceedingly, and grow very thick ; fome of them are vi'hite, and the wood of them is corruptible ; others are red, and incorruptible. The planks from the Paragua-tree are the mofl in ufe, but lefs, valuable. The tree is a handfome branching tree, keeping its leaves green all the year : they are like elms. The moft common wood of all, and that of which there is moft plenty, which ferves for the covering of houfes and roofs, is the cinnamon-wood. Thefe are very large trees, of a beautiful alpeft ; they keep their leaves all the year, and are like that which in Italy they call the laurel-royal. The Guayac-tree is bred in the mountain or Cor- dillera, and from thence has its hardnefs and heavinefs, which is fuch, that it is like iron ; and the balls made of it to play at billiard, are almoft as hard as the ivory ones ; the tree is no large tree, and the heart of the vrood is a yellow mixed with green ; the decoftion of it is good for many infirmities. The fandal-tree is very odoriferous ; there are great quantities of them in the illands which are named from Juan Fernandes ; it is a prefervative againft the plague, and is ufed by the confeffors, and others, who are bound to approach infedled people. There are other trees and flirubs of admirable virtue, for feveral infirmities, of v/hich the Indians have a particular knowledge, and perform admirable cures with them. The fruit-trees bred in the mountains are many, and of great variety : let us firft treat of that v/hich indeed carries the palm, not only becaufe of its name, but that its height, beauty, and abundance, and that of its molt excellent fruit, challenges the firft place among all the reft. They grow generally upon the mountains, and in precipices, fo thick together, that feeing them at a diftance, one would think they were a clump fet by hand ; they are very thick and high ; all the body of the tree is naked till the top or firft fprout ; its 88 OVALLE*S HISTORICAL RELATION OF CHILE. its nature is to lofe all its old branches as the new ones come out ; by which means, the body of the tree rifmg free, and difencumbered from fuch boughs as ufe in other trees to grow out of the fides of them, is totally employed in feeding the top ; and the fruit which grows within it, being, as it were, a pyramid round it, to preferve it by the admirable texture of its leaves and branches which incompafs it. Thefe palm-trees have a wonderful property, and mod certain, which is, that none of them give their fruit, except they are in fight of each other ; and if it happens that one comes up alone, without a companion, though it thrive to a great largenefs, yet it never bears, except another be planted by it, and this they call the female ; and as foon as the female is planted, though never fo little a one, yet the great ones bear, and the fecond in its time, when it is big enough : I have feen the experience of this ; and it is a thing well known to all. The fruit of thefe trees is called Cocoas, and is like filberts, though bigger by half, and the meat within the fhell is not folid, but hollow, and is, round the edge, about the thicknefs of a crown-piece, and in the reft of the hollow is a kind of milk, or water, of an excellent relifh ; and fo is the flefli of it, which is white, and ferves to preferve the liquor like a viol, which ftays in it till it be imbibed by the cocoa, which happens in fome months ; and then they are not fo good to eat as when they are frefh ; but then they are good to preferve, as almonds are, and other kernels of that nature. Antonio de Herrera, and other authors, fay, that thefe cocoas are good againft poifon ; and nature feems to fet a value upon it, by the many covers in which it is involved ; firft, the kernel is covered with a fhell harder than that of the almond, then it has an- other cover of a green colour, and fometimes yellow, which is woven fo clofe about it, and fo ftrongly, that when it is green, it is eafier to break it than to peal it off. The fruit grows clofe to a ftalk, which fometimes will have above a thoufand on it ; and this is environed by a great fhell, which grows bigger and bigger with that bunch it con- tains, till at laft the fruit makes it burft and open into two parts, which are like two boats, each above half a yard long, and two fpans diameter in the broadeft place, and the bunch within all of a fine yellow, very beautiful to look on. It hangs on the branches till it be ripe, and then falls to the ground, where it is gathered, and great provifion is made of it for Peru ; for befides their being made a fweetmeat, the chil- dren rid the merchants of them for play-things, it being one of their greateft enter- tainments. The palm-trees which bear dates do not feem to be natural to this country, but brought from abroad ; for I never faw them, as others, wild in the fields, but only in gardens. There are other fruit-trees wild, which come in the fields, and are called Pengue ; they have a red fruit, fomething bigger and more oval than the filberts ; thefe the Indians eat boiled with other ingredients. There are alfo trees called Magues, which are very beautiful and cooling ; the leaves are admirable againft a burn ; the fruit is black like a myrtle-berry ; it is very well relifhed, having a dulce-piquante very agree- able ; it blackens the mouth and hands when it is eaten, and, for that realbn, the more civilized people do not ufe it fo much. There are alfo fruits of which the Indians make their fermented liquors, whofe names and properties I cannot call to mind ; only 1 know there is great variety of them ; and I can remember one called Quelu : the fruit is very fweet and fmall, between red and yellow ; of this they make a drink extraor- dinarily fweet. They make another drink of that which they call Iluigan, and the Spa- niards, Molle ; it is of the fhape and colour like pepper ; the tree on which they grow is but little, bur a great bearer : this drink is very agreeable, and coveted even by the greateft ovalle's historical relation of chile. 89 greateft ladies. The moft common drink of the Indians is made of maize, which is the ordinary bread and fuftenance of the Indians. Let us end with the tree called Murtilla ; though, if we beheve the authors who treat of it, it deferves to be ranked in the firft place. Antonio de Herrera fpeaks fo well of this tree in the ninth decade of his Hiftory of the Indies, Book IX., and folio 347, that I will relate only what he fays, and that in his own words, which are as follows : — " There is a kind of fruit of trees that grow on the mountains, which grow from thirty-feven degrees upwards, and in thofe countries it is a common food ; the natives call it Uni, and the Caftillans, Murtilla. It is red, and like a fmall grape, fomething bigger than a fvvollen pea ; its fliape and colour is like the pomegranate grains, its fmell and tafte agreeable, and not unlike a grape. It has little grains hke a fig, which are almoft imperceptible to the tongue ; its temperature is hot and dry : ' of this they make a wine, which exceeds all other liquors, even that of the Eaft India cocoa, or palm-tree : neither cyder, mqjd, nor beer, nor all the other drinks defcribed by Andres de Laquuna, are to be preferred to it. This wine is clear, fine, warm, and very agreeable to the tafte, as well as profitable to the ftomach. It confumes all va- pours in the head, its heat warming the ears without going any further : it comforts and cheriflies the ftomach, increafes appetite, and never takes it away. It never offends the head, or makes it heavy, or burthens the ftomach ; and it bears as much water again as wine will do. Thofe who have tafted it, commend its colour and flavour, as much as that of grapes. Its colour is golden, and mighty bright ; and it is as fweet and good as the wine of Ciudad Real. There is little of it made, and fo it lafts but eight months ; for which reafon, it is not knovm how many years it would keep. It takes up as much labour and care as wine, in the making : if it be left to itfelf, and without fire, it is forty days before it ferments. ' It cafts down a lee, and works out the frothy part at the top of the veffel ; and, for that reafon, care is taken to fcum it as it boils, and then it is drawn off into another veffel. When it is turned to vinegar, its vinegar has a better tafte and colour than vdne-vinegar ; for it retains the colour of the fruit, which is very odoriferous and fweet." Thus far this author : from whence it may be inferred, that this land had good wine of its own ; and it had alfo very good oil made of a feed called Madi ; it is extremely well reliftied ; but now it is not much in ufe, becaufe that of olives is fo common. It is not poffible to defcribe particularly, one by one, all the various forts of trees that are bred in the woods and mountains of Chile ; and it would take up a very large treatife, which is not mv purpofe ; yet when we come to treat of the ftraights of Ma- gellan, we will fpeak of the cinnamo*n-tree, which is to be found there, and of the barks of fome othei: trees of that foil, which have the fame tafte as the Eaft India pep- per. All that I can fay at prefent, is, that there are few of thefe trees that lofe their leaves in winter, particularly thofe which grow wild in the woods, which are generally aromatick, and of a very fragrant fmell ; and of them, all the fineft of this kind are bred in the territory of the Conception. I would not have believed it, if I had not feen it ; for in travelling I met with lovely groves, which bordered the highways, and eaft out fo rich a fmell from their leaves, that the flowers of jafmin did not appear fweeter. There are alfo abundance of myrtles and laurels, which grow in great groves naturally ; and yet among them there are trees whofe leaves exceed them infinitely in the perfume of their fmell ; infomuch that, paffmg one's hand over them, one would think one had amber gloves on. VOL. XIV N BOOK go ovalle's historical relation or chile. BOOK II. TREATING OF THE SECOND AND THIRD PART OF THE KINGDOM OF CHILK. CHAP. I. — Of the IJlands of the Kingdom of Chile. TIJAVING, for the better defcription of the kingdom of Chile, divided it into three parts, we have treated of the firft and principal one, which is that which is properly called Chile, in which many things are faid which are common to all the three parts ; therefore, in thefe two which remain, we Ihall^take notice of that only which Hull be peculiar to them, to avoid repetition. We come now to the fecond part, which are the iflands which are fpread all along the coaft of the South-Sea, as far as the ftraights of Magellan ; I fay, they are many in number, and fome of them very large ones ; as that of Sanda Maria, La Mocha, Juan Fernandes, and, above all that of Chiloe, in which is founded the city of Caftro. Some make thefe iflands fifty, fome feventy leagues in^ length, and about fix or feven leagues in breadth. In the fame fea, or archipelago, there are many more, fome of ten leagues, and others lefs ; and in all, reckoning thofe that are within the ftraights of Magellan, there are above two hundred difcovered. Juft over-againft Coquimbo there are three, which are called Del Soboral, De Muxil- • lones, and De los Paxaros, in thirty degrees latitude ; two more in thirty-three and forty degrees : there are eight fmall ones juft over-againft Val Paraifo, which are called the iflands of Juan Fernandes ; who dying, left them to the Jefuits. Then follows the ifland Quiriquina, which is in the bay of the Conception. Juft over-againft Arauco is the ifland of San£la Maria, in the thirty-feventh degree ; and in thirty-eight that of La Mocha. Hard by Valdivia, about forty-three degrees, comes the archipelago ot Chiloe, which is compofed of forty iflands ; and hard by it is the province of Calbuco, in which there are twelve more. Thofe of Los Chonos are as many, in forty-five degrees ; and in fifty degrees are the eighty iflands difcovered by Pedro Sarmiento, as ftiall be related hereafter. The iflands of Chiloe are reputed barren ; but their foil is not really fo, only the exceflive rains choak the feed, and do not let the corn thrive ; fo that they are without wheat, wine, or oil, or any other plants which need much fun. The nature of the climate of this archipelago is fuch, that it rains almoft all the year, fo that only maize, or other fuch grains, can ripen, that do not want fo much fun. The nourifliment or diet of the natives, is, moftly of a root called Papas, well known over all the Weft Indies, of a good nourifliment ; and they grow there bigger than in any other place. They have befidcs fome maize, fome fifli, and particularly fliell-fifli, which is excel- lent in thofe feas. They have few flieep, but very good poultry, as well as hogs, and fome beef; with which, and what befides is brought to them from St.Jago, and the Conception, the Spaniards, both of the ganifon and city of Caftro, make a good fliitt. This city is the capital of the chief ifland ; in which, and in the reft, there is a great quantity of honey and wax made. And Herrera and other hiftorians fay, there are mines of gold upon the fliore ; and they remark it as an extraordinary thing, and hardly heard of in any other place. The ovalle's historical relation of chile. 91 The manufa£i:ures of thefe iflands are the clothing for the Indians, who have a kind of veft which they call Macun, and it is without fleeves, becaufe their arms are naked ; and over this they put a garment called Choni, which ferves for a cloak, and is like that which painters give to the apoftles in their piftures. They have another commo- dity from their woods, particularly of the plank they make of a tree, which is a cedar, and of which they have vafl: woods, and in them trees of a prodigious fize ; for Friar Gregoi7 of Leon, of the order of St. Francis, in his map of Chile, which he dedicates to the prefident Don Loiiis Fernandes de Cordoua del Carpio, fays, that fome of thefe trees are fo big that they cannot be hardly encompafled by a rope of fix yards long ; and out of the wood of the boughs there has been made fix hundred planks, of twenty-five feet long, and two feet broad ; and that which is confiderable, is, that this plank is not fawed, but cut with axes ; in which there is much more lofs. This author deferves belief, as well from the experience of forty-two years that he lived in Chile, as from haying been definitor of his order. And what I have heard from the mouth of a colonel, who was both born and bred in that country, will ferve to confirm this ; which is, that if two men on horfe-back are on each fide of the tree, when it lies along, they cannot fee one another ; for the body of the trunk hinders them. Thefe planks are carried to Chile and Peru ; and in exchange they bring back provifions to live on. The iflands of Chono are yet poorer than thefe ; becaufe, that being nearer the pole, their fummer is fhorter, and their rains more copious, infomuch that they drown the earth, and hinder it from producing. We have little knowledge of any other iflands befides thofe of Chiloe ; becaufe the continent being fo large, and yet not thoroughly peopled, there has been little occa- fion of inhabiting any more than fome few of thefe iflands ; by which means there is but fmall difcovery made of their qualities ; though it is reafonable to think they re- femble the land over-againft which they lie. As for the iflands of Juan Fernandes, I will relate what I find writ about them in Theodore and John de Bry, in their- relation of the voyage of John Scutten : they fay then, that thefe two iflands are very high land : the leafl of the two, which is the wefternmofl;, appeared to them barren, as being covered with wood, and very moun- tainous ; though not landing on it, they could make no judgment of the infide of the ifland. The bigger ifland, which is the eaflernmoft, is likewife mountainous, but has great variety of trees, and much grafs, with which are fed great herds of fwine and goats, bred from fome few which were put on fhore by John Fernandes, who began to cultivate thefe iflands as his own ; but he dying, and the Spaniards finding greater advantages upon the continent, they forfook thofe iflands, which were out of all trade, leaving their flocks of cattle behind them, which now are infinitely multiplied. They fay befides, that coming to this, which they call the Fine Ifland, they found a port veiy fafe for their fhips, having twenty or thirty fathom depth, the fhore all fandy and even, with a delicate valley full of trees of all forts, and wild boars, and other animals feeding in it ; but they could not diftinguifli them, by reafon of the dif- tance they were at. They extol particularly a moft beautiful fountain, which coming down from high^ rocks, rolls into the fea by different canals, which form a pleafant profpeft, and its water is very fweet and agreeable. They faw alfo great flore of feals, and other fifh, which they caught in great plenty. In fliort, they were fo in love vnth this ifland, for the good qualities they difcovered even at its entrance, that they wer^ very unwilling to leave it though prelfed in point of time. I do not doubt, but this is a very pleafant fituation : for in its temperature, and other properdes, if muft be very like Val Paraifo and St. Jago, becaufe it is almofl N 2 in ffy2 " OVALLE*S HISTORICAL RELATION OF CHILE. in the fame degree weft ; and without doubt thefe iflands will be peopled in time, when the continent grows populous, as it does every day ; for then people will be feeking new habitations ; but at prefent they only go thither fometimes to fifh, to fend it to Peru, where they have it not fo plentifully. The fame authors, giving an account of the other Dutch fquadron under George Spilberg, fay, that they came to the liland of Mocha, and found the north fide of it plain and low, but the fouth full of rocks : they landed ; and the good reception they found from the Indians, is an argument of the fertility of the place. Thofe Indians are a noble fort of people, and very good natured. When they had refrefhed them- felves much at their eafe, they made provifion of gi-eat ftore of fheep, which are very large, and in great plenty there, as likewife of hens, eggs, fruit, and other provifions. They treated the Indians on board, and Ihewed them their great guns, and their men in order for fighting : they prefented them alfo with European commodities, fuch as hats, clothes, axes, and things which they valued. After this, they fet them again on fhore : and the Indians made figns to them to go back to their ftiips, as they did. But they were very differently received in the Ifland of Sancla Maria, where the vice-admiral landed with fome of his men, and were invited by the Indians to eat ; but from the fhips they faw a great army coming down upon them, as they were going to fit down to table ; whereupon they made figns to them to retreat to the port ; which they did, and had juft time to embark. But they hkewife carried oiF about five hun- dred fheep, and other refrefhments, having found the ifland very fertile and well pro- vided, as well as very temperate, being about thirteen leagues fouth-weft from the city of the Conception, about thirty-feven degrees, and not above three leagues from Arauco ; which makes fome think, that formerly this ifland was faftened to the main land, and that the fea had in length of time made the divifion which now forms the bay of Arauco. There is a little to be faid that is particular of all the other iflands to the ftraights of Magellan, fince it has not pleafed God to let them be peopled by Spaniards, and fo give an entrance to the gofpel ; by which means the produfl: and nature of them might be known, and many fouls faved which inhabit them. All that we know now of them, is, that in the voyage of Pedro de Surmiento to Spain, being fent by the viceroy to chaftife Francis Drake, for his boldnefs for infeft- ing thofe coafts ; in his way, on this fide the ftraights of Magellan, he difcovered a great archipelago of iflands, which they told to the number of eighty, which he named by feveral names, and took pofl'eflion of them in the name of his kmg. He alfo dif- covered more iflands in fifty-one degrees, to which he did the fame. It is known likewife, that in the ftraights themfelves there are many iflands, fome of which we fhall mention when we treat of the ftraights of Magellan. CHAP. II. — Of the Land called Terra del Fuego. THE land called Terra del Fuego, (fo famous in the relations and maps we have of the ftraights of Magellan,) has deceived many by its name, people believing that it had been given it for fotne volcanoes, or burning mountains, or other fubverraneous fires ; but it is not fo, for this name had no other occafion, than that the firft navigators through the ftraights difcovered upon it many fires and great finokes, made, as they fiippofed, by the numerous inhabitants of it ; and fo they called it the Land of Fire. There aroie likewife another miftake from its great extent ; for it was judged to be a great continent, of which in time the' world was undeceived, as we fhall fee here;vfter. 9 ^ This OVALLE S HISTORICAL RELATION OF CHILE. 93 ■ This land, called Terra del Fuego, is that which forms the fouth fide of the ftraights of Magellan, extending itfelf the whole length of the ftraights, eaft and weft, above one hundred and thirty leagues. Formerly, before the ftraights of St. Vincent, otherwife called the ftraights of Le Maire, were difcovered, this land was thought to be joined to fome other great continent of the Terra Auftralis, which was fuppofed to join to New Guinea, or the iflands of Solomon ; and Ortelius, in his geography, is of this opinion ; but upon the difcovery of the other ftraights of St. \''incent, that doubt has been cleared, feveral having gone through them to the South-Sea ; and among the reft, two caravals fet out by the king's command, in the year 1 6 1 8, on purpofe to view thefe ftraights, which it was faid had been difcovered by James Le Maire, which caravals were commanded by Don Juan de More. Thefe two veflels fet out from Liibon in the month of Oftober 1618, and being come to the eaft entrance of the ftraights of Magellan, they paffed by it, and ran along all that coaft, without finding any entrance, till they came to that of Le Maire, which they went through, in lefs than one day's time ; after which they turned to the fouth, and afterwards to the weft : they went round all the Terra del Fuego ; and failing north, came to the weft entrance of the ftraights of Magellan,' into which they entered, and failed through them to the North Sea. Having thus made a circle clear round the Terra del Fuego, they proved it demonftratively to be an ifland feparate from all other land. The fame was done by Sir Richard Hawkins, an Englifti gentleman, who having paffed the ftraight of Le Maire, failed for five and forty days to the fouth, without finding any land contiguous to the Terra del Fuego, but many iflands, as related by Antonio de Herrera, chap. 27, of the defcription of the Weft Indies. The fame has been confirmed by feveral, who being driven by ftorms from their intended courfe, have been forced to run tov/ards the fouth pole ; amongft the reft by Francis Drake, who having pafled the ftraights of Magellan the fixth of September, 1572, and being got on the feventh, a degree from the ftraights, was carried by a ftorm two hundred leagues to the fouth ; and coming to an anchor in fome of thofe iflands, he there found that the fun being eight degrees from the tropic of Capricorn, the days were fo long, that there was not above two hours night ; from whence he inferred, that when the fun came to the tropic, there muft be a perpetual day of twenty-four hours. The fame was experimented about two years ago, by the fleet of General Henry Brum ; which having paflfed the ftraights in April, were by the force of ill weather carried into feventy-two degrees, and eaft anchor at the ifland of St. Bernard, to which they gave the name of Barnevelt ; and it being about the entrance of winter, the days were not above three hours long, fo that they expefted they would ftill fliorten till June, when the fun being furtheft off" from that hemifphere, would leave them in a total night ; for this reafon, and becaufe of the hardinefs of the weather, which increafed every day, they durft not winter in that ifland, as they had a mind, but alter a fort- night's ftay in it, weighed anchor, and failed for Chile. In which voyage they made but little advance, having always the wind a-head, infomuch that they were a whole month doubling one cape, and loft in the endeavour their Tender, in which was the beft part of their provifion. So much for the iflands belonging to the coaft of Chile ; but having alfo mentioned the iflands of Solomon and New Guinea, to which antiently it was thought that the land of Terra del Fuego was joined, it will be well to fay fomething of them. The author who writes the beft of them, is Antonio de Herrera, and from him is taken what John and Theodore de Bry fay of them ; which is thus : The 94 ovalle's historical relatiok of chile. The Iflands of New Guinea run from fomething more than one degree fouth of the pole antarftick, three hundred leagues eaft to the fifth or fixth degree ; according to which reckoning, they fall about the weft of Payta. The iflands of Solomon fall to the weft of Peru, about eight hundred leagues from its coaft, and extend them- felves between the feventh and twelvth degree : they are diftant from Lima about fif- teen hundred leagues : they are many, of a good fize : there are eighteen principal ones, which are, fome three hundred, fome two hundred, fome one hundred, fome fifty leagues, and lefs in compafs. Between them and Peru, inclining to the land of Chilethere, is another called the ifland of St. Paul, about the latitude of fifteen degrees, and about feven hundred leagues from the Terra Firma. The fleet of William Scowten having run along the coaft of Chile in the year 1615 or 1616, from the ftraights of Magellan, took their courfe to the weft, when they were about the latitude of eighteen degrees, to try to find out fome new ifland, and found one in fifteen degrees ; which, according to their computation, was diftant from the coafts of Peru about nine hundred leagues. After this they difcovered two more, which they called the Cocoa iflands, by reafon of the great plenty of that fruit that was there, that the inhabitants did ufe to drink the fweet liquor that was bred within the cocoas, but when it was at an end, they made a Ihift with fait water ; to which, being accuftomed from their youth, it did not hurt them. They fay more, that the inhabitants go naked, though not quite ; and that their way of being civil and faluting, is to give themfelves blows upon the temples, which is the fame as with us the pulling off^ the hat or cap. At firft they laughed at the fire-arms, till they faw one fall much wounded, which undeceived them, and convinced them that it was not only noife which proceeded from thofe arms. Thefe iflands are diftant from Peru 15 10 German leagues, which are longer than the Spanifli leagues, though not fo long as the Indian ones. There were found alfo other iflands in the latitude of twenty-nine degrees, which perhaps were thofe which at firft they called the iflands of Solomon. Others fay, that there are others more to the weft, oppofite to Chile. Whofoever is curious enough to know the particulars of all thofe iflands, their temperature, inha- bitants, their good and ill qualities, may find them in the above-cited authors, who treat of them more at large ; for my intention, it is enough to fay what I have reported. CHAP. III. — Of the two Straights of Magellm and St. Vincent. THE Straight of Magellan received its name from that man, who eternized his own, by being the firft who difcovered and pafled it. This was that famous Portuguefe captain, Hernando de Magellanes, whofe intrepid foul going almoft beyond the true limits of all ordinary valour, feems to have bordered upon temerity and raflinefs, by engaging himfelf to difcover a paffage altogether unknown, and fo narrow, that it was very dangerous for fliips, being befides in the fifty-fourth degree, which makes it very cold. This bold captain began to enter the ftraight by the North-Sea the twenty* feventh of November, in the year 152c, and in twenty days, which was a happy paflTage, he entered the South-Sea ; from thence he failed to the Philippine iflands, where he was killed in one of thofe iflands called Matan, to which he went from another called Pezebu, to fight againft the king of the firft, becaufe he refufed to fub- je&. himfelf to one of thofe kings who had turned Chriftian ; engaging him with more courage than condud, and fo he perilhed by the great number of his advcrfaries. His death ovalle's historical relation of chile. 93' death was very much lamented, and he much miffed in the difcoveries of that new world ; for, without doubt, if he had lived longer, he would have made great difcove- ries in the Terra Firma and iflands. To give a more certain account of this ftraight of Magellan, I will make ufe of the memoirs of thofe who have paffed it, and left relations of it, who, as eye-witneffes, were lefs fubject to miftake. And firlt I will give thofe fworn relations given in Caftilla by thofe who fet fail from the Corunna, by the Emperor Charles the Fifth's order, in fix fhips under the command of Fray Garcia Jofre de Loayfa, a knight of Malta, and born at Civedad Real. They fay in their report, that the faid ftraight is a hundred leagues in length, from the cape of Eleven Thoufand Virgins, which is at the entrance of the North-Sea to the cape of Defire, which is at the entrance of the South-Sea ; and they fay more, that they found in the ftraight three great bays, of about feven leagues wide from land to land, but the entrances of them are Hot much more than half a league over ; the firft is about a league deep ; the fecond about two leagues ; the third, they fay, is encompaffed with mountains of fuch a height, that they feem to be in competition with the ftars, and the fun does not enter within them in the whole year ; which was the caufe of their enduring there an extreme cold ; for it fnows almoft continually, and the fnow never melting by the fun-beams, it looked with a kind of bluifli colour. They fay, moreover, that the nights were twenty hours long ; they met with good water, and trees of feveral forts, among which many cinnamon-trees ; and that the leaves and boughs of the trees, though they appeared green, yet burnt in the fire as if they were dry ; that they found many good fifliing-places, and faw many whales, (fome mermaids) many of the tunny-fifh, fharks, cods, great ftore of pilchards and anchovies, very great oyfters, and other ftiell-fifti. That there were alfo very good harbours, with fifteen fathom water ; and in the ftraights itfelf above five hundred fathom, and no where any fands or ftioals. They obferved feveral pleafant rivers and ftreams, and faw that the tides of both feas came each of them above fifty leagues up the ftraight, and meet about the middle of it with a prodigious noife and formidable ftiock. Though a Portuguefe captain, who had paffed this ftraight, told me, that thefe tides were only fome high floods, which laft a month, or thereabouts, as the winds blow ; which makes the fea fometimes rife to a great height, and at other times fall as much, leaving the ftiore dry for a great way ; and the ebbing is fometimes fo faft, that ftiips are left dry, as this captain's fhip was, fo that he was forced to dig his way out to get into deeper water. They found feveral other entrances in this ftraight ; but for want of provifion they could not ftay to fearch them. They loft one ftiip off the Virgins Cape ; and they had fcarce entered the ftraights when a ftorm blew them back to the river of St. Ildefonfo, and to the port of Sandla Croce, where they found ferpents of various colours, and ftones that were good for ftanching of blood ; all this may be feen in Antonio de Her- rera, in the fecond tome, dec. 3, and in the ninth book, fol. 335, and it does not difagree with the other relation of Magellan's voyage, though this makes the ftraighteft part yet lefs, allowing it not above a mufquet-ftiot over, and from one entrance to another it reckons a hundred leagues, the land on both fides being very rich and beautiful. This is; in fliort, the relation given in to the king. There are fome other authors who neither make the ftraight fo long, nor do they make the narroweft part fo ftraight; for fome allow but fourfcore and ten leagues, or lefs, to its length ; but yet it is probable, that the firft give the moft credible account, becaufe they examined it with fuch care and punctuality, in order to inform His Majefty. All agree in one thing, which 96 ovalle's historical relation of chile. which is, in the good qualiries of the fea, land, and iflands of the ftraight, as well as of the (here on both fides, and of the good parts that are in it, and of fome particularly fo fecure, that the {hips rid in them without being faftened, being as fafe as if they had been in a box. Among the reft the Hollanders celebrate much the twenty-fifth port, called the Famous ; and it is fo much fo, that George Spilberg, their general, gave it that name, for the excellent reception they found there : they faw the whole earth about covered with various fruits cf various colours, and of excellent tafte. To delight them the more, there was a fine brook of excellent water that fell from a high rock, and watered all the valley entering into the port ; and befides thefe five and twenty ports or har- bours, there were many others in the remaining part of the ftraight, which might be a third of it, all which were very remarkable. There is a harbour called De la Pimienta, or the Pepper Harbour, for the fake of fome trees they found in it, whofe barks had a moft aromatick fmell, and a tafte of pepper, fomething more burning and quick than that of the Eaft-Indies. When the Nodales pafled this way, they gathered a great deal of this bark ; and authors fay, that when they brought it to Seville, it was fo valued there, that it was fold for fixteen ryals, or two crowns a pound. The fame authors report, that they found cinnamon-trees, which bore good cinna- mon ; and in the fecond narrow paflage fome others, that bear a fort of black fruit, of moft excellent tafte and favour. In other places they faw moft beautiful woods and groves, pleafant plains, agreeable valleys, intervals of great beauty, with high mountains ; fome covered with fnow, from whence there deicended lovely ftreams ; others all cloathed with greens of various forts ; and in them they defcried many animals going to and fro, fuch as deer, oftriches, and others, as alfo great variety of moft beautiful birds of all colours ; and among the reft they killed one fo large, that meafuring one of its wings, they found it above a yard long ; and they were fo tame that they flew to the fliips, and fuffered themfelves to be handled : they found alfo another fort of large birds, which they called fea-geefe, every one of which, after they had been plumed and pulled, weighed eight pounds of Caftile ; and they were fo numerous, that the ground was covered with them, fo that they killed what quan- tities they pleafed. They faw another fort of bird, much of the ftiape of a pigeon, all white, only with red bills, and red feet ; all which were a grand entertainment to them as they failed along. They commend alfo the harbour, which they call Moft Beautiful, where the city of St. Philip was founded ; there they faw the traces of feveral animals, which ufed to come to drink in thofe chryftal fountains. After the third ftraight place, there is to be feen a moft excellent harbour, called the Shell- Harbour, by reafon of the vaft quantities of oyfters and other fliell-fifti that they found there, which fufficed to feed the whole fleet feveral days, carrying away with them a good provifion likewife for their voyage, all owning that they were better than thofe of Europe. There are found in the great canal of the ftraight feveral iflands,which are as eftimable as the Terra Firma ; they are generally in the wideft part, where the fea is feven or eight leagues over ; the chief are thofe of St. Lawrence and St. Stephen, otherwife called the ifland Barnevelt. Before they came to thefe, they found other iflands, which they called the Pinguin Iflands, for the great quantity of that fort of birds that are bred there. There is another, called the Holy King's Ifland, which is in a river, which enters into the ftraights, and they faw in it many feals. Others of thefe iflands are named Sevaldo, from the name of him that difcovered them, near which there were ovalle's historical relation of chile. 97 Avere ftore of the pinguin birds, and abundance of whales. After having pafled the fecond ftraight, there are ftill more iflands, the firfl is called of the Angels, and is full of the birds we have mentioned. The fecond is named the ifland of the Patagoons, or giants, becaufe they faw there fome of them. Near the fhell-port there are other eight iflands ; and a little before the entrance into the South-Sea, there are feveral other iflands, which mufl be very little, for the ftraights are there very narrow. Some may defire to know, whether, befides this entrance of the ftraight of Magellan, there are any other, by which fhips may fail from the North-Sea to the South. Touching which, the relation of George Spilberg fays, that there is one by the cape, which they called Prouvaert. Some Englifli likewife, who have failed that way, are of the fame opinion ; for which they cite father Acofta, of our fociety, in his Oriental Hiftory, tranflated by John Hugh Linfcot, chap, i o. in the end : as may be feen in the already cited John and Theodore de Brye, who add, that many other authors do agree in this opinion ; and that thofe of Spilberg's fleet, before they came to the {Iraight, faw this opening on the north fide ; but they did not dare to go into it, becaufe they had exprefs orders to pafs the ftraight of Magellan ; and befides, that which added to this ■refolution, was the obfervation they made of the great force with which the waves met each other at this opening, infomuch that the fea feenied to boil. This is all that I have met with in authors about this opinion, which even John and Theodore de Brye look upon as falfe ; becaufe neither the Spaniards nor Dutch ever faw this fecond canal ; but rather that the whole land of Fuego is one great continued ifland, which they prove by the relation of the navigation made by the Nodales, who were fent to fearch for the ftraight of St. Vincent, and who went round the Tien-a del Fuego, without finding any fuch opening, or any other than that of Magellan and St. Vincent ; and yet I am of another opinion, and hold the firft for certain ; and this does not contradidi the opinion of Spilberg, who does not fay, that the opening he faw was on the fouth, but on the north fide, towards the land of Chile ; and fo, though the land of Fuego be an ifland, it does not follow that there may not be an entrance on the north fide. But let us leave that to time to make out, and fay fomething of the ftraight of St. Vincent, which is the fecond paflJage from the North to the South-Sea. -CHAP. IV. — The fame Matter h continued, and the Ufefulnefs of the Commerce between Chile and the Philippine Iflaiids is 7nade out. IN the year 1619, the Idng fent, in the month of Oftober, the two caravals which I mentioned above, to fearch the ftraight of St. Vincent, becaufe about that time it was reported in Spain, that James Le Maire had difcovered it. Thefe two fhips failed ta the bay of St. Gregory, which is near the eaft entrance of the ftraight of Magellan ; from whence they failed along all that coaft, where they faw and converfed with a fort of giants, who were at leaft the head higher than any of the Europeans ; and they exchanged for fciflars, and other baubles, gold, which it feems, is the produfl; of that country : after which they failed fouth-weft round the Tierra del Fuego, till they came to the mouth of this new ftraight, which they called the ftraight of St. Vincent ; and before they entered it, they failed along the fhore of this new difcovered land, keeping it always on the right hand, their courfe eaft-north-eaft, as it tends. They failed about thirty leagues ; and not having difcovered all that way, not as far as they could fee, any opening or inlet, they returned to the opening of the ftraight VOL. XIV. o of ^S ovalle's historical relation of chile. of St. Vincent ; and entering into it, went through it in lefs than one day, it not be- ing above feven leagues in length ; and being entered afterwards into the South-Sea, "they followed the fame land to the eafl:, and fouth-weft thirty leagues more ; and fee- ing it was one continued coaft, clofed up with mountains of great height, they durfl not go any further, beginning to want provifions ; and fo thinking that this land might reach as far as the Cape of Good Hope, they left it, and failed to the well entrance of the ftraight of Magellan ; which they entered, and went through to the North-Sea, returning that way to Spain, to give an account of what they had difcovered, having made a very fortunate voyage, and not lofl one man, nor had any ficknefs, all that climate being very like that of Europe, and particularly to the cold part of it. This made the king give order for the fetting out of eight fail more, to carry this way to the Philippine iflands all the relief neceflary, of foldiers, artillery, and tackling for fhips, refolving henceforward that they fhould always go this way, as being fliorter, eafier, and of lefs charge and danger. This was the opinion of Michael de Cardoel, and the other pilots chofen for this expedition, who obliged themfelves to fail to the Philippines (bating extraordinary accidents) in eight or nine months ; for, having once palled the ftraights, if they had the wind and currents favourable, they hoped to get to the Philippines in two months ; becaufe from Chile to thofe iflands, there is no rea- fon, as in other navigations, to wait for certain feafons and times of the year ; for all that voyage being to be made within the tropicks, there is no danger of winter ; but one may fail it at any time of the year. The Dutch authors already cited, treating of this fubject, add thefe words : — " In truth this is a great conveniency to mankind, to be able to go from Europe to thefe iflands in fo fliort a time, with all the health and fafety of the failors ; it being other- wife in going by the Cape of Good Hope, where the diverfity of winds is to be ob- ferved. Tome of them being fo contrary, as to hinder abfolutely the voyage ; fo that it lafls fometimes fifteen or fixteen months. Befides, this courfe is fo fubjeft to difeafes, that often they bury half their men in the fea, as happened to Girrard Reinft, who was fixteen months getting to Bantam, which is not above half way to the Philippines, and yet lofl: a quarter of his men : Adrian Wreuter was nineteen months getting to Bantam, and lofl: out of the fliip, called the Fleflingue, one hundred and fixty-three out of two hundred : the fame happened to the other three fliips of that fquadron." Thus far thefe Dutch authors ; who add, that the fliip Concordia, going the other way, arrived at the Moluccas without lofing a man. And if they fay true, and make out that it is better to fail this way to their Batavia, how much better is it for the Spaniards, who drive a trade with Peru and Chile, the diftance being much lefs, and having for friends all the ports of Chile, if they would not go fo high as Peru, which the Dutch have not ? Neither would it be a fmall advantage to exchange in thofe ports the merchandizes of Europe with their product, which is fo wanting in the Philippine iflands, and all thofe parts of the eafl:. Every one may find their account in this trade ; the Spaniards, without running the danger of ficknefs in thofe unhealthy climates of Carthagena, Pana.ma, and Puerto Bello, might find as much vent for the European commodities ; Chile and Peru would have all goods from Spain much cheaper than they have them now by the Terra Firma ; the charges then would be three times lefs ; and, at the fame time, they would help oft' the produds of thefe parts ; as from Peru they might load corn, wine, and oil ; and if they did not care to go fo far, they might have the fame things from Chile, and cheaper, befides copper, hides, almonds, and other commodities proper to Europe : fo that it is clear this would be a very advanta- geous intercourfe for the Philippines, who want all thefe commodities fo much. 4 i Neither ovalle's historical relation of chile. 99 Neither would the trade of New Spain receive any damage at all from this ; for thofe countries could not have them from Peru and Chile fo eafily as from Europe ; and fo Spain would fend lefs, only fo much as is carried to the Philippines from New Spain, which cannot be much ; for the charge of carrying thofe European commodities from Vera Cruz, to be embarked again for the Philippines, is very confiderable, it being at leafl: one hundred and fixty leagues by land from the Vera Cruz to Acapulco, which is the port where they are to be embarked ; after which, they have a navigation of three months ; and then, there being not always conveniences of (hipping in Acapulco, thofe commodities are kept fo long that they are fpoiled ; and it is feen by experience haw little of this trade turns to account : but it would be otherwife, if thefe commodities were carried from Chile, fmce in two or three months, always in a temperate climate, they might fail with a conflant fouth wind, which blows all the fummer infallibly, and fo bring the produd: of Chile in a good condition to the Philippines. This commerce, though it would accommodate all parties, yet it muil be confefled, it Would be mofl beneficial to Chile, which would thereby have more vent for its produft, and acquire more people to cultivate its natural fertility. There have been two obftacles to this projedt, which have hindered its taking : the firfl; is, the difficulty of paffing the ftraight of Pilagellan, becaufe it being fo much ele- vated towards the pole, it cannot be paiTed but in certain months of the year, which, if thofe who attempt it do not hit, they are in danger of perifhing, as in effed it has happened to fome fquadrons of fhips, as I fhall relate in the next chapter ; though others have paffed it very luckily in its proper feafon, the ftraight itfelf having, as we have feen, many good harbours and flielters for (hips. The fecond obftacle is the fame that keeps the port of Buenos Ayres from being frequented, (for elfe all the treafure of Peru might be fent that way ;) and it is, that the courfe of trade is fettled the other way, notwithftanding the great charge the crown is at to have two fleets, the one in the South, and the other in the North-Sea, only to fecure this paffage ; and that with the lofs of fo many Spaniards' lives, that in the hof- pital of Panama only, there was buried, as they told me when I went that way in the year 1630, above fourteen thoufand perfons ; and what muft we guefs then in the ports of Carthagena and Puerto Bello, which have been the fepulchre of fo many- Europeans ? Notwithftanding all thefe mifchiefs, this way is continued to maintain thofe cities already founded in thofe parts ; though it is moft certain, that the fame end, of carry- ing the filver to Spain, might be attained by one only fleet, with lefs danger of the fea. By that courfe the galleons would fail always in deep water, and not run the hazards they do between Carthagena and the Havanna, between which places they are fain to found all the way, and keep the lead going, to avoid the many flioals that are in thofe feas, and in the canal of Bahama afterwards : befides that, the dangers of ficknefs would be avoided ; for the Spaniards find by experience, that at Buenos Ayres they are healthy, that being in the temperate climate correfponding to that of Europe. And for the fame reafon the navigation between Chile and the Philippines is not put in ufe ; becaufe the courfe of things being once fettled one way, it is very hard to change them, though to a better. I fliall not purfue this matter any further, becaufe it feems to touch the ftate and government, which is not my defign : perhaps time will bring all things to pafs ; and that thofe of Chile themfelves will venture to find out this vent for their produft. All confifts in trying ; for the advantages on both fides would be fo manifeft, that the fweet of them would foon make the way eafy, and that trade would wonderfully enrich Chile and Peru, fince they might bring back to thofe o 2 kingdoms lOO OVALLE S HISTORICAL RELATION OF CHILE. kingdoms all the commodities of China and Japan ; and that without carrying any gold or lilver, which might be preferved all for Europe. Thus the greateft part of this new world being enriched by its own produdt, the king's revenues will be the- greater, as well as the returns in gold and filver the greater ; and all things thus well accommodated, the fervice of God, and the divine cult and worlhip would be better carried on. CHAP. V. — 0/" the Fleets ; fame of which have been lojl, andfome have happily pa(Jed the Straight of Magellan. AMONG the fleets which have been loft in the ftraight of Magellan, the firft was that of four fhips fet out by the bifliop of Placentia tor the Molucca iilands ; which having got to the ftraight with good weather, and being entered into it about twenty leagues, there rofe from the weft a ftorm, which blowing diredtly a-head, forced three of the fliips afhore, they not having room to turn or run before it ; but all the men were faved. The fourth had better fortune ; for going before the ftorm, fhe got out of the ftraight ; and when the foul weather was over, came into the ftraight again,, where the other fliips were loft, and found the men, who had faved themfelves on Ihore, who prefently made figns and cries to be taken on board ; but they with hearts full of grief anfwcred them. " What would you have? We cannot relieve you, for the provifions we have on board are not fufficient for us, and fo we may fear to perifli all of us together." They could not fay to them the other words of the Gofpel, " Go rather to thofe who fell," becaufe they were in a defart country, where they had no remedy, but to fend fighs to heaven, accompanied with inconfolable tears and cries, capable of moving the ftones themfelves. Thus they left them, purfuing their voyage, much aftlifted to be forced to forfake them, and not be able to do any thing for them j. but thefe are accidents and hard cafes belonging to the fea-faring men. It is not known to this day what has become of thefe men ; only there Is a tradition, that a great way within land, on the continent of Chile, near the ftraight, there is a nation called Ceflares, who were endeavoured to be difcovered by Don Hieronimo Luis de Cabrera, governor of Tucuman, about eight and twenty years ago, with a good army raifed at his own charge ; but his diligence was In vain, as we have marked already, and told the caufe of his mifcarrying. It is thought, and it is very probable, thefe Ceflares may be defcended from thofe Spaniards who were faved in this fliip- wreck ; becaufe It was poflible, that feeing themfelves without any other recourfe, they might go on Into the Terra Firma, where, contraftlng alliance with fome Indian na- tion, they may have multiplied, and the fame of them may have reached the neigh- bouring nations, and fo on to others. This is certain, that this tradition is much kept up, that there is in thofe parts an European nation called Ceflares. Some fay, that there has been heard the found of bells, and they have founded cities where they live ; but, In fine, there is no certainty of all this. A gentleman born in Chiloe, and who has been a colonel in thofe parts, gaVe me in writing a relation of feveral traditions and Informations of great numbers of people that inhabit the land within, and who have much gold. There has been made feveral attempts to difcover them, though all have mifcar- ried for want of provifions, or by other accidents, which in time may be remedied when it pleafes God. And at this very time I have received letters, which acquaint me, that father Hieronimo de Montemayor, apoftolical miflionary of that archipelago of Chiloe, had entered Into the Terra Firma In company of Captain Navarro, a man very I of famous ovalle's historical relation of chile, roi famous in thofe parts ; and that they difcovered a nation, which it is thought are thefe Ceflares, becaufe they are a nation of white complexion, and frefh cherry cheeks, and who, in their fhape and difpofition of body, feem to be men of mettle ; and that they had brought fome of them along with them, to endeavour to inform themfelves of that which they fo much defire. This is all the father wrote at that time, becaufe the fhip could not (lay, and there is but one fhip every year bound for thofe parts ; fo he was forced to refer himfelf to the next conveniency, to inform me more particularly of the original and defcent of this nation ; fo that this is all that at prefent we can fay of this nation of the CeiTares, which it is poffible may come from thefe fhipwrecked men ; or elfe they may defcend from fome Dutch, who may have been fhipwrecked in the fame place, or thereabouts ; and their complexion feems to fortify this conjefture ; be- fides, that they fpeak a language which no body then prefent could underftand j or there may be both Spaniards and Flemings. It is thought we fliall not be long with- out knowing the truth, and fo I continue my narration. The fecond fleet which mif- carried in the flraight, was that which was let out about two and twenty years ago, under general Ayala, a gentleman of high birth and valour ; who going from Spain t6 Chile, dealt with His Majefty for a relief of men, which he was to carry through the ftraight of Magellan, without landing any where elfe ; but juft as they were entering it, they were all call away, fo as to this day there has not been any account of them, except of the vice-admiral's fhip, under the command of Francifco de Mandujava ; for, having loft fight of the admiral in the ftorm, fhe was carried before the wind to the port of Buenos Ayres, where he landed the men, and marched them over land to Chile. I heard fome of the men talk of this matter ; and they ufed to blame the general very much, for having gone about to enter the ftraight when the time of th^ year was fo far advanced, particularly having been advifed in Brafil, where he touched, to winter there, which he refufed to do, for fear his people fhould defert him, and fo he and they all periflied. Thefe accidents feem to have made this paiTage lefs practicable ; but yet we know that many have pafTed this ftraight with little danger, and fome with great felicity. Eight fleets are mentioned by John and Theodore de Bry, as well Spaniards as fo- reigners, who have pafled this ftraight ; and though fome have had bad weather, yet there is no doubt but time and good obfervations may make it more feafible ; parti- cularly there being fo many good harbours and bays in this ftraight, where fhips may Ihelter themfelves, and let the ftorms blow over. CHAP. VI. — 0/ tbe Province of Cuyo. AFTER having treated of the two firft parts of the kingdom of Chile, we muft fay fomething now of the third, which contains thofe large provinces of Cuyo, which are on the other fide of the Cordillera, towards the eaft. We have already defcribed their fituation and extent, let us treat now of the nature of them. And to begin with their ill qualities ; it is a wonderful thing to confider that there being nothing between them and Chile, but the high mountains of the Coi'dillera, yet they are fo different in their qualities. We have already mentioned fome ; but we may fay, that as to their tempe- rature, they are in every thing entirely oppofite ; for firft, the heats are excefDve and intolerable in fummer ; and for that, as well as for the vaft quantity of bugs or punaifes, which are there, fome very fmall, and others as big as bees, one can hardly fleep a- nights in the houfes, and therefore the people all lleep in their gardens and court-yards* There r.o^ ovalle's historical relation of chile. There are almoft perpetual thunders and lightnings, and many polfonous reptiles and ' iniecls, though not fo many as in Tucuman and Paraguay. There are likewife a fpe- cies of mofquitos, or gnats, no bigger than the points of needles, and as fharp in their fling, though themfelves are almoft imperceptible ; they get into the hair of one's beard, and one cannot be rid of them any other way, than by killing them. Thefe are the evil qualities of the land of Cuyo ; let us now mention the good ones. The land is fo fertile, that in many things it exceeds even the richeft foil of Chile ; the crops are better, the fruits larger, and of better tafte, by reafon of the great heat, which ripens them more: there is good ftore of corn, wine, flefli, all forts of fruits, roots, and herbs of Europe ; as alfo great quantities of olive-yards and almond-grounds ; fo that the only effential difference between it and Chile, is the many venomous ani- mals, and the thunders and rains in fummer ; though to make fome amends, if Chile exceeds in fummer, Cuyo has the advantage in winter ; for though the cold is fliarp, yet it is not with fuch clouds, nor fuch fnow and rains, as in Chile ; but rather the weather is ferene, and the fun beautiful and clear, without any dark weather, which makes it very temperate. There is no fea-fifli in this province, it being very far from any fea ; but it has ponds, which are called the ponds of Guanacache, where they catch great quantities of trouts, as they call them, which are very big, like the Savalos of Seville, but much better without comparifon ; for they have no fmall bones, and are of a higher relifli, and a very- healthy food. Befides the fruits of Europe, this country has feveral very good of its own. The firft is called Chanales, which are like filberts or fmall nuts ; only the difference is, that that which is to be eaten is not within, but on the outfide of the fliell : the other is the Algaroba, of which they make bread fo fweet, that it naufeates thofe who are not ufed to it. All Tucuman, as far as Buenos Ayres and Paraguay, are provided from hence with figs, pomegranates, dried peaches, and dried grapes, apples, oil, and excellent wine, of which they have abundance, which they carry over thofe vafl plains called the Pampas, (where for many leagues together there is not a tree, nor a ftone to be found,) in large carts, fuch as they ufe here in Rome ; and they are a caravan of them together, to defend themfelves from^ certain Indians, who are enemies, and often attack them by the way. Some years ago, they began to difcover here rich mines of filver, the fame of which drew people from Potofi when I left Chile, becaufe they were reputed to be richer, and of more profit than thofe of Potofi, all provifions being more abounding and cheaper too. Thefe mines were alfo faid to be in a plain country, where carts might come eafily. They write me word likewife, that there have fince been difcovered gold mines of a prodigious richnefs. It is true, indeed, that in this matter of mines, there is a great difference between the affaying them in little parcels, or in great ones ; for often the ore that promifes much, yields but little, when the affay comes to be made in great. This is a common obfervatlon in mines ; and if thefe of Cuyo do not prove extraor- dinary rich, there will hardly come any people from abroad to them, particularly from Chile, where they have already fo many and good ones, of fuch a known profit, and yet they do not work them, the people being more profitably employed in hufbandry, which turns to greater account. I will give here an extraft of a letter which I received in Rome this year from father Juan del P090 of our company, a perfon of great piety, and worthy of credit, who is at prefent in the cellege of Mendoga, the chief of all thofe of the province of Cuyo, and it is thus : — " The* greateft news here, is about the mines which are begun to be difcovered, which if it holds as they relate, it will be the greateft thing in the world : they OVALLE*S HISTORJCAL RELATION OF CHILE, 103 they are of gold, which is feen among the filver ore : there are come very underftand- ing miners from Potofi, who cannot give over commending them. There come people from St. Jago to work them, and Captain Loren90 Scares is named for Alcalde Mayor of thefe mines.*'] There ?re others who write the fame thing ; and there is no doubt to be made, but that if they can have people, that country will be one of the richeft of all the Indies ; for its great fertility wants nothing but people to cultivate and confume its produft. This will make the three cities of that province, which are that of Mendo9a, that of St. Juan, and that of St. Luis of Loiola, increafe mightily, which fihce their firfi foundation have been at a ftand, by reafon of the neighbourhood of Chile, which has kept them down ; many of the firfl inhabitants of Cuyo having left it to go to Chile, as being more temperate, and more abounding with the conveniences of life ; for the fame reafon that we fee in other parts moft people flock to the capitals of a kingdom, as is evident in Naples and other great cities. But if the Spanifli inhabitants increafe as they have done hitherto, there will be enough for all thefe parts ; and already fome of St. Jago have fettled, and married at St. Juan and Mendoga ; neither can it be otherwife, for the people of Chile are beginning to be fo ftraightened, that they cannot have all the conveniences of being at large, and fo are forced to feek them abroad. And it is moft certain, that the conveniencies of this province are very great ; and their not appearing fo, is owing only to their neighbourhood to Chile, in comparifon of which thefe countries appear a place of banifhment, and is looked upon as the moft rigorous that can be given any one in Chile ; becaufe to fay truth, the difference is very great, confidering the proprieties of each place ; but if we confider Cuyo, without comparing it, it is not only a good place, but furpalTes many others, where neverthelefs the inhabitants think themfelves very happy, though wanting the abundance of Cuyo, where the flelh is very fubftantial and favoury, and great abundance of game, as alfo of pork, turkeys, ducks, hens, and other tame fowl. The wines are very generous, and of fo much ftrength, that though they be carried three or four hundred leagues over thofe plains, and the intolerable heat of the Pampas, and that by oxen, yet they come good to Buenos Ayres and other places, and are preferved with the fame facility, as long as one pleafes, without fpoiling ; and they are in fuch quantity, that all the provinces round are fupplied with them, nay, as far as Paraguay, which is three or four hundred leagues more. The bread is excellent, fo is the oil, and all forts of legumes and gardening ; the fifh better than the fea-filh ; the flax and hemp as good as that of Chile ; the materials for tanning very good ; and, in fhort, it has all neceffaries for life, with as much advantage as any other country. This being thus, and even more than I relate, what is there wanting to this land, or what are its blots ? punaifes, thunder, lightning, hail. And what other country has not fome of thefe ? Shall we fay, becaufe God has exempted Chile by a Angular providence from thefe things, that therefore Cuyo is an ill country ? No, for then we muft condemn moft countries where thefe affliding circumftances are found. And though it muft be owned, that in the fummer the heats are great, yet they do not exceed thofe of Tucaman, Buenos Ayres, and Paraguay ; and they are inferior to thofe of Brafil, and thofe of Carajas, Carthagena, Puerto Bello, and Panama, as I myfelf have experienced in fome of thofe places. And thefe parts of Cuyo have fome amends made them froni the neighbourhood of the fnow; for the city of Mendo9a is not above a league from the Cordillera, which is full of it ; and likewife the good qualities of the air do fome- thing moderate the heat ; for it is fo healthy, that it never hurts any body by being ia it„ 104 ovalle's historical relation of cmLE. it, which makes them fleep in their gardens abroad, without any apprehenfion, except it be of fome fudden fliower which does often happen in fummer ; for on a fuddcn, though the heavens be clear and bright, it grows cloudy, and falls a raining with great fury ; but this may be eafily remedied ; and likewife the thunders and thunderbolts might be avoided, which are the things which fright thofe of Chile moft, they being fo little ufed to them ; and therefore at the very name of Cuyo, they think the heavens are falling upon their heads, or that the punaifes, and other naufeous vermin are never to leave them ; fo that no greater mortification can be propofed to an inhabitant of Chile, than to go to live in Cuyo. And belides all this, the vaft fnows which fall on the mountains, fliut up the palTes, and hinder all communication or intercourfe ; fo that in five or fix months one cannot receive a letter, though thofe two provinces are not above thirty or forty leagues afunder, that is, the breadth of that chain of mountains called the Cordillera. This therefore is that which difcredits Cuyo ; and if it had been further off from Chile, it would have had a better name ; but it is with that, as with two loaves, which though both good, yet if one be whiter and better, no body will touch the other, the beft being always mofl pleafing. CHAP. VII. — Of the Confines of the Province of Cuyo, and particularly of its Eajierly Bounds, the Pampas, and of the River of Plata. THE confines of this province of Cuyo to the weft, are Chile ; and to the eaft, the Pampas, or vafl plains of the Rio de la Plata, and part of Tucuman ; which reaching as far as thofe of Rioca, and the mountains of St. Michael, with all the reft as far as Salta and Jujuy, make the north fide of it ; and to the fouth, it has the flraights of Magellan. All this continent is called the Efcombradas, or plains without hindrance ; for there is not fo much as any ftop to the eye ; but it is like a fea, and the fun feems to rife and fet out of the earth ; and at its rifing, it is fometime that it gives but little light ; as alfo it lofes fome of its beams before it be quite out of fight when it fets. The way of travelling in thofe plains is with very high carts, which they cover over neatly with hoops, over which are cow-hides, with doors to go in and out ; and thefe are drawn by oxen : there are alfo windows to give a free pafiage to the air, and on the bottom one makes one's bed with fo much conveniency, that often travellers fleep out the whole journey, and feel not any of the inconveniences which attend it. Generally they fet out about two hours before fun-fet, and travel all night, till it be an hour or two after fun-rifing ; fo that a traveller juft wakes when he comes to the baiting-place. This muft be owned to be a great conveniency ; becaufe one may alfo walk on foot fometimes, in the cool, before one lies down, and fo one comes merrily and eafily to one's journey's end. There is alfo another entertainment which helps to pafs the time pleafantly, and that is hunting : and for this end fome carry horfes empty, and dogs on purpofe ; and there is game enough both of hare and venifon : for there are herds of Guanacos, of two or three hundred. The dog follows them ; and the young-ones, not able to follow, are left behind, which the hunter knocks on the head with a club he carries, without lighting from his horfe, and returns to the carts loaden with venifon, which ferve for provifion as well as entertainment. At other times they follow the partridges, francolins, or the bird called Quiriquincho. But to all this there are abatements and mixtures of troubla: the firft is, the mighty heat in fummer; for which reafon, left the oxen fhould be ftifled with it, they travel in the night ; and when they come to halt. ovalle's historical relation of chile. 105 halt, or bait in the day time, it is in places where there is not fo much as a tree, under whofe fhade one may reft : nor is there any other fliade than that of the cart, and fome coverlet upon it ; for to go into it, is like going into an oven. But this is not all the way, there being feme pleafant running ftreams and rivers bordered with green willow-trees, which very much mitigates the fury of the heat. The greateft incon- venience that I perceived in that journey, was the want of water ; which is fo great, that we were forced to provide ourfelves, when we arrived at any of thefe rivers, for many days journey ; for there is no other, except fometimes fome plafhes remaining of rain-water ; and that is all green, and can ferve only for the oxen : and yet this is rare too ; for thefe are often dried up to mud, and then one is forced to double the day's journey, and march as far again ; fo that the cattle is almoft dead with thirft. I have feen fometimes, on thefe occafions, the oxen take a run as if they were mad or poffeffed ; for they know by inftind, a league or two before they come at it, the places where it is, as if they fmelled it ; fo there is no ftopping thofe that are loofe ; and even thofe who are at the yoke, make what hafte they can ; and when they get to the water, they raife the mud fo by their hafte, that they drink as much mud as water. When this happens, while there is any of the water left that was taken at the river, and carried in carts, the misfortune is the lefs ; but when that water is already fpent, the people fuffer extremely : for though moft commonly fome one man is fent before to take up fome water of the cleareft, before the oxen trouble it, yet they make fuch hafte, that that prevention moft commonly mifcarries ; and then we are fain to ftop our nofes, and ftiut our eyes to drink, and divert even our imagination, if we can. And to all this there Is no remedy, but from heaven, as it happened to me once, that it pleafed God to fend us a fhower in our greateft extremity, which filled feveral wells, and there was enough for us and our cattle, as alfo to carry away ; for which we thanked the Divine Majefty, acknowledging his great mercy to us in fo preffing circum- ftances. This fufFering would not be fo great, if there were any towns and villages in the way ; for there are little lakes, by which they might fettle, which, though fome years they yield no water, yet it is to be come at by a httle digging, and that not very deep ; and if there were people in thofe defarts, wells might be made, or the rain-water gathered in cifterns, as it is praftifed in feveral other places. But thefe plains are fo vaft, that they can hardly be peopled, being extended for feveral hundred leagues ; and befides, there being no trade fettled of any importance in thofe parts, there cannot be inns nor places of ftielter fettled ; and fo at prefent, whoever travels that way, muft carry every thing ; for when once one is fet out, there is no addition to be made ; and therefore all is to be provided, more or lefs, according to one's ability ; and that muft be at leaft a fortnight's allowance, and fometimes twenty or thirty days, till one comes to fome inhabited place. This is the manner of travelling in the plains of Cuyo, and Tucuman, and the Rio Plata, where in many leagues one does not fee a hill, nor a ftone, nor a tree, but continual plains ; and if, to drefs your viftuals, you have not the forefight to carry fome wood, all the remedy is to gather the cow-dung, which ferves the turn very ill. In fome places of this province of Cuyo, there are woods near the rivers, from whence may be had materials for building ; and hard-by the Cordillera there is a fort of tree that breeds incenfe. I brought fome of it to Rom.e, and the druggifts told me, that it was finer than the ordinary, confumed in churches. There grows there alfo the herb called Xarilla, which is very hot, and a good medicine, as we have faid already. There are many others, of which I cannot give fo particular an VOL. XIV. p account, io6 ovalle's historic.1l relation of chile. account, as not having made any flay in thofe parts ; neither am I In a place where I can advantage myfelf of thole relations, that others might give me ; and which may ferve for larger hiftories than mine, I pretending only to brevity. Therefore let this fuffice for an account of the fituatisn, foil, heavens, proprieties, trees, plants, fruits, metals, flocks, fountains, rivers, fea-fiihes, jmd birds, in all the three parts or divifions of the kingdom of Chile. Let us now fay a word of its inhabitants, the old Indians, who have poflfefled it all formerly. BOOK III. OF THE INHABITANTS OF THE KINGDOM OF CHILE. CHAP. I. — Of the jirjl that peopled America^ and their Antiquity. n^HE knowledge of the firfh inhabitants of the kingdom of Chile, depends neceflarily upon that of the firft inhabitants of America, which is not eafy to be made out.^ If we fliould take the opinion of the Indian Guancas, near the valley of Xavia, they would certainly affirm, that which is a conftant tradition among the natives of Peru, and before they had any knowledge of our faith, and is, that many years before there were Ingas, who were the kings of thofe parts, the country being very populous, there was a great deluge : (thus far it is well. J But then they add, that in the hollow rocks of the higheil mountains, there remained fome alive, who returned and peopled the earth afrefli ; and the fame tradition is received by the Indians of Quito in Collao. If this were fo, the Indians of Chile might lay claim to the new peopling of America ; for if any, their mountains were moft capable of refifting the deluge, they being the highefl: that are yet difcovered. There are other Indian mountaineers, who are lefs miftaken ; for they affirm, that none could be faved in the mountains, becaufe they were all covered with water ; but that fix were faved in a float they made. If they had faid eight, they would have hit upon the number which the apoftle St. Peter fays efcaped with Noah in the ark which he built. Antonio de Herrera, in the third tome of the General Hifliory of the Indians, ex- cufes thefe errors of the Indians, faying, it was probable there was fome particular deluge in thofe parts, to which they might allude, becaufe all the nations of that world are agreed in this tradition. The true and natural excufe is, that thefe poor wretches have not had the good fortune to fee the chapter of Exodus, where they would have been undeceived ; for there it is faid, that " out of the ark of Noah there was not left any living thing upon the earth, and that the water was fifteen cubits over the tops of the highefl mountains. *' The other Indians, who talk of the fix men faved on the float, may have had fome tradition from their forefathers, who were nearer the time of Noah, about the ark ; and as they are a people who have no books, becaufe they cannot read, whatfoever they might learn from their anceftors, and retain in their memories, might by degrees be loft, or diminiflied ; and fo the defcendants came to have the tale of the float and the fix perfons, not examining how it ovalle's historical relation of chile. 107 it poflibly could be, that upon fo flight a contrivance, which can hardly laft three or four days in the water, thofe people Ihould maintain themfelves for fo long as the de- luge lafted. As for the manner and time, how and when the defcendants of Noah pafled to people this new world, or how their generations have extended fo far, it is a moft difficult thing to make out ; for the Indians being without written records, as other nations have, there is no diving by their memories into their antiquities, which even when they are committed to writing, ufe to produce variety of opinions about the origin and beginning of things. Befides, there was in Europe, even among the moft learned, fo great an ignorance of all that regarded America, that it was judged fcarce inhabitable, if it was at all ; and fo they could give us no light of a thing they had no notion of, or which they thought impoflible ; but after the difcovery of this new world, people began to reafon, and every one made his guelTes or reafonings as well as he could. Some have faid, with reference to what is hinted by Plato, in his Timseus, (as is related by our father Acofta, in his firft book of the New World, in the twenty- fecond chapter,) that people paflTed from Europe and Africa, to certain iflands j and fo from one to another, till they came to the Terra Firma of America. The fame author advances fomething more probable, in his nineteenth chapter ; where he fays, that fuppofmg we all came fi-om the firft man Adam, and that the pro- pagation of the fpecies of mankind, after the deluge, was made by thofe only who were laved out of the ark of Noah, it is not improbable, that the firft inhabitants of Ame- rica came to thofe parts, not with defign, or by their own induftry, becaufe of the little ufe of navigation that was in thofe days, and particularly through fo great a fea ; but that they were caft by fome ftorm on thofe coafts, as it happened fmce in its firft difco- very, as we Ihall fee hereafter in its proper place. He brings, to prove this, the example of feveral ftiips, which, contrary to their courfe, have been driven to very remote fhores. This is every day's experience, and will not furprife thofe who know any thing of the ftrength of the winds and currents in thofe feas ; and that which the fame father Acofta alledges of himfelf, that he had fuch a paffage, that in fourteen days he came within fight of the firft iflands of the gulph of Mexico, going from Spain. This, though probable, has yet a ftrong objection againft it, which is about the wild beafts, fuch as tigers, lions, wolves, and others of that nature, which could not be carried in fliips. becaufe they were of no ufe to mankind, but rather mifchievous : and though fome may anfvver with St. Auftin, in his fixteenth book De Civitate Dei, chap. 7. when he folves the difficulty how thefe animals came into iflands, and fays, that they might either fwim thither, or be carried by hunters, or that they might be created a-new by God Almighty, as they were in the beginning of the world ; which is the beft folution, if it were as probable as it is eafy to fay. But firft, there is againft it the opinions of philofophers, who will not allow any great animals to be propagated any other way than by generation. And befides, if God, as without doubt he might, had created them a-new, what neceffity was there for him to command Noah to take fo many pairs of all living creatures, all male and female ? which care feems fuper- fluous, if God defigned to make a fecond creation of all thofe fpecies after the deluge. It is more probable, thefe creatures might arrive at the iflands fwimming, and the birds flying, particularly to the neareft iflands ; but this does not prove, that they could arrive at thofe remote parts of America, there being fuch a vaft ocean, that it is not poffible that either beafts or birds fliould have fo much ftrength as to fwim or fly over it ; for this reafon he concludes in the end of the one and twentieth chapter, that the men, as well as animals, pafled either by land or water to -America, near p 2 fome io8 ovalle's historical relation of chile. feme part where it joins to the other parts of the world, either by the Terra de Baca- laos, or the ftraight of Magellan, that is not feparated but by ordinary little feparations of water and fea, which might be eafily pafled in fmall verfels, fuch as were in ufe in thofe antient times. This is the author's opinion ; which, as to the Terra de Bacalaos, carries with it only the probability of an ingenious conjefture, becaufe as yet that part of the world has not been difcovered ; but if in time it proves like the conjefture about the ftraights of Magellan, it is all without any grounds ; for, as we have already related, it is now made plain, that America on that fide is entirely divided from the other parts of the world by a vaft fea. It is true, that to the eaft it is not known yet how far that land runs, which is over-againft the Terra del Fuego, and is on the eaft fide of the ftraight of St. Vincent, otherwife called the ftraight of Le Maire ; for fome think that it may run as far as the Cape of Good Hope, and fo be fo near that part of Africa, that men might pafs in fmall veflels from the one to the other. It is likewife uncertain, that the continent of America ever was nearer than it now is to any other continent, or that the fea has fince broke away part of either, to make the feparation wider, as we have obferved it did in the ifland of Sanfta Maria, which is fuppofed to have for- merly been all of one continued piece with the firm land of Arauco ; but thefe are all conjeftures, and he alone knows the truth who created thefe men, and other animals of America, and by whofe providence they pafled to thofe parts, for the great ends of his hidden fecrets ; to whom, with all veneration for his counfels, we muft fubmit the enquiry, why he has been pleafed that that part of the world fhould remain un- difcovered for fo many ages, without any communication with thofe parts where his divine light has appeared fooner. Thefe are confiderations for the good to make ufe of with thanks, for having been admitted to it ; and confufion of the wicked, who at noon-day are as much in the dark as if it had never dawned. Peter Bertius, in his geography, as John and Theodore de Bry do relate, collects the antiquity of thofe nations of America, from their raoft antient kings and lords, and from the ruins of antient edifices, and other memorable things ; for this argues the largenefs of time in which all this was done. Amongft other things he mentions the report of one of their gardens belonging to fome king, '^which muft be of Peru, who were always the richeft,) in which all the herbs, and plants, and ftirubs, with their trunks, leaves, and flowers of their natural proportion, were of mafly gold ; and in the houfes of recreation, there were all forts of animals made of precious ftones, and fome of feathers of various colours. They fay befides, that the Ingas, who were the emperors of Peru, were the richeft princes in the world : and that they had fo much gold, that not only the plate they eat in were of that metal, but all their houfliold ftufi" and furniture were of the fame, to their tables, benches, cupboards, nay, jo the ftatues themfelves ; a great deal of which fell to the Spaniards' Ihare when they con- quered thofe parts ; but the beft part was hid and concealed by the Indians, which to this day they keep undifcovered, being in that way of fecret intradable and extremely clofe. Neither is it any wonder that thofe princes fliould ufe fo much gold, fince they were mafters of more of that metal than any others ; being fo beloved by their fubjefts, that whatever they had that was precious, they prefented it to them ; and they were fo inclined to hoard it, that whoever fucceeded in monarchy made it a point of ftate not to touch, but rather to increafe the treafure of his father ; of which a great proof was the vaft fum which Atahualpa offered for his ranfom, and paid to the Spaniards for it, as we fhall fee hereafter. lo Amongft OVALLE S HISTORICAL RELATION OF CHILE. I09 Amongft other precious pieces of gold work, authors make particular mention, and admire with reafon, that chain which the king Guaynacapa, the eleventh king of Peru, caufed to be made at the birth of his fon Guafcar., who was to inherit his crown, for each link of it was as big as the wrift of a man, (as is reported by Gareilaflb de la Vega, who had it from an uncle of his, an Inga alfo, who told him, when he alked the bignefs, as big as this, fhewing his wrift,) and as long as twice the length of the great place of Cufco, which in all might be about feven hundred feet lor>g. And the condator, Auguftin de Varate, in his firft book, chap. 14. treating of the incredible riches of that Inga, fays thefe words : " Guaynacapa at the birth of his fon, caufed a great cable of gold to be made (as is attefted by feveral Indians now ahve) of fo much weight, that two hundred Indians could but juft lift it up from the ground ; for me- mory of which they gave the name of Guafcar Inga to the new-born prince ; for Guafca fignifies a cable ; and the firname of Inga was added, as that of Auguftus to the Roman emperors. " Thus far this author : but this name, or word Guafca, not being fo decent in its fignification for a prince, they added the r to it, and neverthelefs eternized the memory of that rich chain. The chiefeft motive the king had to order this chain to be made, was, that the dances which were to be made at his birth, might be more folemn and worthy of his royal perfon ; becaufe the manner of dancing of the Indians, is to take one another by the hands, and make a circle : and fo moving two fteps forward, and one back- ward, draw clofer and clofer to the king, to make their obeifances ; and the king caufed this chain to be made, for them to take hold of, inftead of taking hold of one another. A great proof likewife of this antiquity of the empire of Peru, is thofe two high- ways mentioned by Herrera ; for being of that vaft length, and worked with all thofe conveniences for travellers, they could not be made but by length of time, and with a long continued labour. This is what I find of the antiquity of the firft inhabitants of America, in which we may comprehend the Indians of Chile. CHAP. II. — Of the great Courage and Boldnefs of the Indians of Chile. THE Indians of Chile are famed by all who have writ of them, for the boldeft and moft valiant warriors of all the vaft extent of the new world : it were to be wifhed by us, that this had not been confirmed by woful experience, for then the kingdom of Chile would have been one of the moft flourifhing kingdoms of the Indies, without the continual wars which it has maintained for about an hundred years, without ever ceafmg, or laying down its arms. This is the more confiderable, if we reflefl:, that the Spaniards having fubjedled, in fo little a time, thofe vaft empires of Mexico and Peru, have neverthelefs not been able, in fo great a time, to conquer the Indians of Chile, fons of the great Cordillera, from whofe rocks they feem to borrow their untameable ftrength and fiercenefs. Except we fhould fay with Friar Gregory of Leon, that this bravery comes from the fertility of the earth, which, as he fays, and is true, does not need any thing from abroad. To which he adds, the birth of thefe people, who all their life tread upon fo much gold, and drink the water which runs over thefe rich minerals, by which they participate of its good and generous qualities, as it is obferved of thofe who live at Potofi, near that vaft mountain of filver, who are fo ftout and haughty, as has appeared in the many revolutions that have happened (here. Let this be as it will, all authors agree, that they are the top nation of America, though I ID ovalle's historical relation of chile. though hitherto no one has treated purpofely of this matter. There are now two hif- tories in the prefs, which will make out, by particulars, all that has been faid of this nation. Don Alonfo de Ereilla fays enough, in his famous poem called the Araucana ; but becaufe it is in verfe, it feems to leiTen fomething the real truth ; and yet abftradl- ing from the hyperboles and enlargings of poetry, all the hiftorical part is very con- formable to truth, he being a gentleman of great quaHty, and an eye-witnefs of what he affirms ; for what he wrote was not by hearfay, bat upon the very fpot where the things happened ; fo that he might have had as many contradidors as he had witneiTes, who were prefent as well as he at what paifed. He dedicated his book to tlie mod Catholick King, his lord and mafter ; and pre- fenting to him with his own hand, when he came from Chile to Spain, it is to be pre- fumed he would not have dared to fail in the exaftnefs of truth, for fear of receiving a chaftifement, inftead of a reward, which he obtained for it. Let any read his pro- logue, in which, in a very good ftyle, and in profe, he gives a noble account of the valour of the Indians, and concludes his preface with thefe words : — " I have faid all this, as a proof and clear demonftration of the valour of thefe nations, worthy of all the encomiums I can give them in my verfes ; and befides, there are now in Spain fe- veral perfons who were prefent at many of the aftions which I here defcribe, and refer to them the defence of my work on that fide." Thus far this author, wortliy of im- mortal praife for his incomparable book, which, though publilhed above fifty years ago, and printed in Spain and Flanders, is yet continually reprinted ; which ihows the value the curious and the learned have for it. The Araucanos are indeed the chief fubjed: of it ; and yet what is faid of them may be extended to all the Indians of Chile, as we fhall fee in its proper place, when we Ihall treat of the wars they had with the Spaniards. But before ever the Spaniards fet their feet on their ground, they had given fufficient proof of their bravery, which was invincible, to the Ingas, emperors of Peru, fince with all their power they could never conquer them, though they endeavoured it, as being extremely inclined to enlarge their dominions ; and they defired it the more, for the fame of Chile, to which they fent a powerful army, and which made fome pro- grefs at firft, fubjefting fome nations to extraordinary tributes. But as they purfued their point, and came to the valley of Maule, they met with the Piomocaes, to whofe fuccour the Chilenos, who inhabited more within the country, were come, and forced the army of the Ingas to retire in hafte. Garcilaflb de la Vega relating this more par- ticularly, fays. That the Inga yn Pangue, the tenth king of Peru, came to the confines of his own kingdom, to a place called Atacama, to be nearer at hand to attend the conqueft of Chile : and from thence firft fent his fcouts through the fourfcore leagues of unculti- vated country, which was between his kingdom and Chile, with orders to difpatch a man, every two leagues, with an account of what they difcovered ; which they did, one meflenger following another, and leaving in the way certain marks, whereby they that came laft might guide themfelves. He firft fent ten thoufand men, under the com- mand of General Sinchiruca, and two other colonels of his own kindred, not being Willing to commit to any other's care fo great an enterprife. They came within fight of the valley of Copiapo, which is the firft inhabited valley of Chile ; with the inha- bitants of which, the Peruvians began to ikirmifh, becaufe they had not admitted the embafly which they fent them as from the Inga, to own him for their lord ; and withal, having given notice of the refiftance they found to the Inga, he fent them ten thoufand n;en more, with a new fummons, alTuring them, that his defign was not to take their ■ ^ 13 country OVALLE's historical relation of chile. Ill country from them, but only that they fhould own him as fon of the fun, and lord of all that was warmed and enlightened by him. Thofe of Copiapo feeing this new relief to their enemies, and knowing that it would not be the lafl, becaufe the Inga yn Pan- gue was preparing another fuccour, and being convinced that this acknowledgment would coft them lefs than the blood that mufl be fpilt in a long refiftance, they agreed to own the Inga as he defired. This was the firfl entrance of the Peruvians as far as Maule, which is one of the rivers of Chile, as has, been faid already. By this time, the army of the Peruvians was fifty thoufand men, and defiring to profecute their conquefl, they fent their ordi- nary embaiiy to the nation of the Promocaes, who having already been informed of their invading their neighbours, were in arms to defend their country. The ambaffa- dors of the Inga delivered their accuftomed meflage, protefting, that their lord defign- ed nothing more, th ;\ to be acknowleded as fon of the fun, and honoured accordingly by their fubmiffion. The Promocaes, who were refolv^ed to defend their liberties, made anfwer, " That the coi querors fhould be the lords and mafters;" and fo uniting all their forces, came on ti: i' fourth day, ._and prefented battle to the Peruvians. The Inga's generals, furprifed . i fuch a courageous refolution, fent them a new fummons, defiring their friendfhip and peace, calling the fun and moon to witnefs, that they came not to fpoil them of their land; -ir goods, but only to oblige them to own the fun for their God, and the Inga for his il i and their lord. To v/hich they received anfwer, that they came not to fpend time in talking, or vain difcourfes, but to fight manfully till they fhould conquer or die ; adding that they might prepare themfelves for battle the next day, as it happened ; and the i ' .nnocaes overcame that powerful army of the Inga's, fo that they had no mind to try their fortune any more, but made their retreat, leaving the Promocaes in peace, and full polfeffion of their lands, which they had fo bravely defended. Antonio de Herrera, in his third tome, and fifth decade, treating of the reafon why thofe of Chile refufed to fubmit to thofe monarchs the Ingas, fays, that it was becaufe of the great reverence with which they made their fubjefts treat them, as if they were gods, and approach them as if they were another fpecies ; which the Chilenians could not bear, their mind being too lofty and generous to fub- mit to fuch a tyranny, which they conftantly oppofed ; infomuch, that though the Ingas had conquered the befl part of that continent, yet the Chilenians never did yield to' their power. Perhaps the neareft provinces to Peru, fuch as thofe of Guafco, Co- quimbo, and Copiapo, did in fome meafure acknowledge their power, fince they paid a tribute in gold ; and for that reafon, thefe provinces alone in all the kingdom of Chile, do fpeak the common language of Peru, which is a very flrong proof of what I here fay. For the fame reafon that they refifted the Ingas, they did not care to have any king of their own nation, the love of their liberty prevailing againft all the reafons of flate, which might move them to have one monarch ; neither did they fall into any popular form of government, or commonwealth ; for their warlike temper did not afford pa- tience enough for the phlegmatick debates, neceffary for the union of fo many minds. Thus every family chofe one among them to govern them. From this arofe the Ca- ciques, who are the fovereigns among them, and by degrees had that power hereditary, and their children after them enjoy it, with all its rights. But though every one governs independently his own diftri6t or jurifdidion, yet when the occafiun offers, that the fafety of all is concerned, there is an affembly of the Caciques, and fome of the elders of the people, who are men of experience, and are fummoned after their way by particular meffengers. In thefe councils they refolve what they 112 ovalle's historical relation of chile. they think mofl: convenient ; which, if it be a cafe of war, either defenCve or ofFenfive, they chufe the general, not one of the mofl noble of the Caciques, or the mofl power- ful, but he who has the fame of the mofl valiant, and has befl behaved himfelf on the like occafion againfl their enemies ; and when he is juflly chofen, all the other Ca- ciques obey him punftually. It is after this manner that they have preferved themfelves fo many years againfl all the flrength that has been brought againfl them. To make thefe aflemblies, they chufe out fome very pleafant place, field, or meadow ; and thi- ther they bring great flore of provifion, and flrong drink, called Chica, which is in- flead of wine. Being all affembled, and well warmed with this liquor, and excited in their martial temper, there rifes up one of the mofl ancient, to whofe lot it falls, to propofe the bufinefs of that meeting ; who with great eloquence f for in that they are very fa- mous) opens the matter, and brings all the reafons and motives of perfuafion that he can. All are obliged to yield to the majority of opinion ; and when the refult is made, it is publifhed with the found of drums and trumpets, and a mighty noife ; but yet al- lowing every one the term of three days to refleft and confider on what has been re- folved ; after which, if they find no inconveniency, the execution is infallible, and they think of the means of bringing the bufinefs about by the mofl proper methods. CHAP. III. — The fame Subject is purfued, and the Nobility of the Indians of Chile examined. ANTONIO DE HERRERA, in the place already cited in the lafl chapter, fays, that there are fome of the Indians reputed above the refl as gentlemen ; and then he adds thefe words, " Of this fort have been, and flill are, the Indians of Chile." In which he fays well ; for if valour and the glory of arms make gentlemen, as may be feen in Andreas Tiraquello, in his book De Nobilitaie et Jure Primogenitoriim ; and if many noble families do to this day derive themfelves from fome great captain or famous foldier, the Chilean Indians having fo often fignalized their valour in fights, they may very juflly be diflinguifhed from all the other Indians, and reputed more noble. In fhort, they are the untamed Cantabri of America, who, like thofe of Europe, defended themfelves, when all the reft of it was enflaved ; and repulfed the conquering monarchs of Peru to the extreme confines of their provinces. And there is one circumflance more particular than under the Cantabrians, becaufe they had the advantage of their mountains, and the barrennefs of their country, not fo inviting to a conqueror ; but in Chile it was otherwjfe : the richnefs of its mines, and its foil full of delicious valleys, and a clear and rich territory, having been always well known, the only valour and bravery of its inhabitants was then the defence of the country : thefe were the fortreffes and walls of it ; for without a bit of fortifica- tion of any fort, or fo much as one fire-arm, they obliged their powerful enemy to a fhameful retreat. Indeed, this is a thing worthy of great admiration ; yet not fo much to thofe who know how thefe Indians value themfelves upon being good foldiers, ufing themfelves to arms, even from their childhood ; of which, it will not be amifs to fpeak a little. When a child is flrong enough, they make it run up the rocky fide of a hill, giv- ing him that does it befl, fome prize or reward : this makes them very nimble and light ; and 1 have feen them, in their feafls and entertainments, run two and two for wages with wonderful fwiftnefs ; and thofe who fhew little difpofition to this exercife, are applied to follow day-labour, but the others they referve for war, not fuflering them ovalle's historical relation of chile. 113 them to take any other employments, but mind their arms and their horfes, that they may be perfeft in all their exercifes. To thefe they aflign their pofl; upon occafion, according as each has behaved himfelf in thofe which he has been in before ; and they have in this no confideration of gentility, interceflion of others, or other motives, but that alone of a good performance, and the many proofs given by them of their courage and conduft in war. The arms they ufe are pikes, halberts, lances, hatchets, maces of arms, bars, darts, arrows, and clubs ; as alfo flrong noofes to throw upon a horfeman, and flings. Their horfe fight with lance and buckler, which they have learned from the Spaniards, and from them they have had their horfes ; for before their time, they had neither horfe nor iron, but they have a hard wood, which grows yet harder by being turned in the fire, and is almofl as ufeful as fteel. They have hard and ftrong corfelets, back and breaft, and thighs, arms, bracelets, gauntlets, helmets, morions ; all thefe of a hard- ened leather, fo prepared when raw, that it becomes by drying as impenetrable as any fteel ; and they are fomething better, becaufe more manageable, and do embarrafs the body lefs, as being lighter ; and fo the man is more at his eafe, and better difpofed in fight. Among them the pikeman may not be an archer ; neither can any that ufes the mace of arms, ufe other arms ; fo every one beftirs himfelf with the arms he is ufed to. In forming their battalions, every file is of above an hundred men, and between every pikeman an archer, who are defended by the pikemen, who clofe their fhoulders to- gether ; and if their firft battalion is broken, the fecond relieves them with fo much readinefs, that there feems not that any have failed ; and fo by the third and fourth following each other, like waves of the fea, without any interruption ; and no man forfakes his rank but by death. They always endeavour to have fome bog or lake not far off for a retreat ; for there they are more in fafety than in the ftrongeft caftle. Their volunteers go before the battalion, trailing their pikes with fo much ftate, and are themfelves fo haughty, that, like Goliah, they challenge their enemy to meet them body to body ; and they do the fame to the Spaniards, giving themfelves great airs of pride. They march to the found of their drums and trumpets, having their arms gar- nifhed with all variety of beautiful colours, and themfelves adorned with great plumes of rich feathers, fo that they appear very handfome and fightly. When they make any forts for their defence, it is of great trees interwoven with each other, and leaving in the middle a place of arms ; and formerly within this fort they ufed to make another of thick planks. Behind this, they make a great ditch, covered over with plants and flowers, but underneath them fharp ftakes to lame the enemy's horfes ; fome they make deeper, that the horfes may remain there flaked through. Many of them are fubjeft to great fuperftitions and auguries, obferving the omens, both before and at the time of their undertaking ; but many of them laugh at thofe obfervations, faying, there are no better omens than good blows, and ftout laying about them, without fear of either fteel, fire, or any fort of death ; and it is certainly fo, that their firft encounter is terrible, and as if they feared no one thing in the world. When they are drawn up, and ready to engage, there is filence made, and the general raifing his voice, begins an harangue, fo full of fpirit, filled with fuch warm incitations, and fuch a lively a£lion, that the cowardlieft among them become like lions and tygers againft their enemies. He lays before them the glory of vidory, and the fliame of being overcome, and made captives and flaves to their adverfaries. " Take notice," fays he, " that there is now no medium between thofe two extremes : are not you the VOL. XIV. Q fons 114 OV.\XLE*S HISTORICAL RELATION OF CHILE. fens and grand-children of thofe brave men, who have fought fo many battles, and ventured all to defend that country and liberty, for which we now fight ? Shall we own that they exceed us in bravery, or that the enemies we encounter are fuperior to thofe whom they overcame ? Had they lefs motives than we have ? or do we hope for lefs glory ? We mufl; all die ; and in the equality of that common fate, the only difference is dying nobly for our dear country, and the liberty of our wives and children ; therefore rouze up that courage which you have inherited from your anceftors, who never could endure the thoughts of that infamous yoke of flavery upon their necks. Courage then, brave men, as brave as any the fun fees ; courage, for in that lies viftory." With thefe, and other fuch words, and calling to mind fome of their viclories, they grow fo warm, that raifmg a cry of war, they drive away all fear, and exprefs great defire of engaging their enemies ; which they do with fo much fury and refo- lution, that a battalion that ftands their firfl fhock is a very firm one. But we will treat further of this when we fhall fpeak of the battles they have had with the Spaniards, whofe valour has fet theirs in its luftre, obliging them to give fuch proofs as are worthy to be recorded in hiflory. Let us purfue now the account of their natural qualities, independently from the refiilance which they have made to His Catholick Majefty's arms. The warHke fpirit of this nation proceeds from their natural temper, which is cholerick and impatient, proud, arrogant, and fierce, very cruel in their revenge, cutting their enemies (when in their power) inhumanly to pieces, and wallowing in their blood. We fhall relate a cafe hereafter, in which fomething of this will be feen. They are llrong and robuft of body, well proportioned, large fhoulders, high cherts, well fet in their members, nimble, aftive, vigorous, and nervous, courageous and undertaking, enduring hunger, thirft, heat, cold ; defpifmg all conveniencies of life, even their own fmall ones, having little value for their very lives, when it is neceifary to hazard them, either for glory or liberty ; conflant in their refolutions, and perfifting in a thing once begun with incredible fteadinefs. They are excellent horfemen, and upon a fingle faddle-cloth, or without one, they are as firm as others in war-faddles : they will ride down the fide of a hill, or a precipice, as if they were goats, with their bodies as ftraight and as firm on horfeback, as if they were nailed to the horfe : they have no trouble with the baggage they want, for they carry but httle with them ; not but that when they march they have their little pack of flour of maize, a little fait, fome Pimientos, or Guinea pepper, and dried flefh ; and this is enough to maintain them a good while. I'hey need no other kitchen utenfils than a gourd or calabafh, with which, when they come to a river or fpring, they open their flour-bag, and wet a little with the water, and that ferves them for drink ; and for meat, when they put more of it with a little fait and pepper, this they call Rubul ; and fometimes they eat their meal dry, with flices of dried flefh. The great numbers of people which that country has maintained, may be colleded from the people that the Spaniards found there at their firfl coming, which was about 200,cco, more or lefs, according to the greatnefs of the diflricts or territories, and their habitations, which never were in form of a city or town ; for the Indians cannot endure any formal conflraint, but love to live free in the fields ; and every Cacique, or lord, governed his own vafTals, who placed themfelves according to their con- veniencies, fome in one valley, and fome in another ; fome at the foot of moun- tains, others on the fide of rivers ; fome by the fea-fide, or on the top of moun- tains ; ovalle's historical relation of chile. 115 taans ; but all under no other form of government, than the will of their lord, the Cacique, to whom they yielded a ready and prompt obedience with joy. Their houfes are generally of wood, without any ftories, not very large, nor all of a-plece, but each room framed by itfelf, fo that when they have a mind to remove and chufe another fituation, they carry away the houfe by pieces, or rooms, which ten or twenty men can eafily carry. When they take it up, they clear the ground about it, and then at one cry, lifting all together, they get it up, and carry it chearfully away, every one taking hold by its pillars ; and when they are weary they reft awhile, and fo on again. Their doors are of the fame material, and they have neither hinges, locks nor keys, nor any thing under a lock or key, their fecurity con- lifting in each other's fidelity, which they obferve facredly towards one another. Their furniture is very mean, they being a people that defpife all conveniencies and fuperfiuities ; infomuch that that which is their natural way of living, would be high penance with any European nations : for firft, as to their beds, they have neither quilts, nor fheets, nor pillows, much lefs do they need curtains, pavillions, or alcoves. The hard ground is their couch, upon which they lay fome poor Ikins ; and for bolfter, they lay a ftone, or a piece of wood, and double their cloaks to lay on it ; and that is their higheft contrivance of eafe : they have one or two very coarfe coverlets, which they weave of a fort of thread as thick as one's little finger. People that ufe fo little about their perfons, may eafily be prefumed to have no hangings, nor other ornament to their walls ; they have no utenfil of gold or filver, though they have fo much in their country ; their plate is four or five difties, and fome fpoons of wood, or a ftiell from the fea-fide; a calabafh or gourd to drink in ; a leaf of a tree, or of maize, for a faltcellar. This is all the apparatus of their table, which is the ground, or at beft a little bench, without any cloth or napkins, but only a little broom, upon which they wipe their hands. Their meats are the moft fimple, and. eafily dreft, without any incitements to gluttony, as in other nations ; but yet they are tafteful enough, and fuch as many of our Europeans like very well. They eat little fielh ; and before the Spaniards came among them, they had neither fheep, goats, nor cows, no, nor hens : they ufe thefe only at their great feafts. Their ordinary diet is of maize, variety of fruits and herbs, and moft commonly gourds, or a fort of beans, which we call Frizoles. They did eat fifti ; and the game they hunted, particularly a fort of fmall rabbits, which they call Degus ; and fince the coming-in of the Spaniards, they eat beef and mutton, of which there is great abundance. Inftead of wheat bread, which they had not before the Spaniards brought it, they eat maize boiled in water, juft as rice in the Eaft Indies. This maize is, and always has been the general nourifhment of the Indians of America ; and is not only their meat, but their drink, which they make of the fame maize, toafted and fteeped in water, and then boiled, and fet by; and that is their Chicha, or wine, which they make alfo of the fruit of other trees. Their way of making flour is very difi'erent from ours : they firft toaft their maize in great platters of earth ; thefe they fet upon the fire full of fand, which, when it is very hot, they take off"; and putting the grains of maize to it, ftir them about very fall; with a kind of broom : it is foon toafted. "When done, they take it out, and put in more, till they have done enough to make flour. This they grind between two ftones, thus : they have a ftone fixed in the ground, of about the ftiape and bignefs of a fheet of paper, and fo hollowed, as another ftone of an oval Q 2 - figure 1 1 6 ovalle's historical relation of chile. figure may play upon it : this the Indian woman takes with both hands, and being upon her knees, makes it play upon the other, putting, from time to time, with her left hand, the mai'ze between the two Itones, fo as to fupply what falls away, and that the mill do not ftand ftill. The flour falls forward into a fort of box, as it does in our mills, and almoft as fall, comparing the ftrength of a woman to that of a ftream of water. She can do enough at once for the maintenance of her family ; and make a provifion too for a journey or a voyage of her hufband or fon to the wars. This is the proper bufmefs of the women ; and it would be a fhanie for a man to employ himfelf in it, or in any other houfehold bufmefs. CHAP. \N. — OfthefameSubjea. WHEN the Indians are fick, they change little of their ordinary way of living, and they never have a better bed. Their way of letting blood is fafer than ours ; for it is not with a lancet, which may either fail to draw blood, or go too deep, and lame the arm, if the furgeon be not very fkilful ; but with a fliarp flint, fixed at the end of a little piece of wood, fo faft, that there is jufl: enough left out to cut the vein, and no more : this they apply to the vein after they have made a bandage, as we do, and flriking a little ftroke upon it, the blood never fails to come, in greater abundance than our bleedings are. This is all they need a furgeon or barber for, they themfelves having no beards to (have, and the little hair they have, every one pulls outj and they take it for an affront to look hairy. They have pincers, which they make of cockle-fhells, and always have them about them, ufing them from time to time in converfadon ; they thinking it as honourable to be without that, which other people nourifli, comb, and take care of; which is a good convidtion of the variety of opinions of mankind, about what is, and is not honourable. As for their hair, they let it grow jufl: below their ears, and no lower, and fo need no barber to cut it, but do every one help the other to keep the ends of it even. Their manner of cloathing themfelves, (though of various and very beautiful colours, which they give to the wool that they weave their cloaths of,) is very plain and fimple : they have no lining to any of their cloaths, neither do they wear one under another : their drawers come down to their knees, open and loofe, and it is upon their naked body, for they ufe no Ihirts : they have a fort of waiftcoat, which they call Macun, and it is made of about a yard and a half of fome woollen fluff, which they leave open, fo as to put it over their heads, and then they gird it with a girdle : they have alfo a kind of cloak or mantle, which they call Chomi, which they put on when they go abroad : they have their arms and legs naked, and on their feet they have a fort of flioe, which they call Ojota, and is like the rope-fhoes the Spaniards vi'ear : they wear nothing on their heads, but a kind of circle of wool, of various colours, with its fringes hanging down like a cap ; which they ftir or pull ofl'in fliew of refpect, as we do our hat?. In their feafts, balls, and rejoicings, though they do not change the form of their cloaths, yet they have a richer fort, of finer wool, and richer colours : they put about their necks fome chains of fhells, which they gather by the fea-lide ; thele they call Nancas : others put fnail-fliells, flrung upon a Thing, about their necks ; imd thofe of the flraights of Magellan have pearls very well wrought, and of great artifice, as is affirmed by the authors already cited; and on their heads they put a kind of garland, not ovalle's historical relation of chile. 117 not of flowers, but of wool, dyed of feveral beautiful colours, to which they hang fine little birds, which they efleeni, and on each fide they have a plume of high feathers, either white, red, or blue, and about half a yard high. Their way of dancing is with little jumps, and a flep or two, not rifing much from ground, and without any capers, fuch as the Spaniards ufe : they dance all together in a ring, round a may-pole or ftandard, which one of them holds in the middle as an enfign ; and near it are all the bottles of their wine, of which they take now and then a fup while they dance, drinking to one another ; for it is a cuftom among them never to drink alone any thing that is given them : he that begins takes a fup, and then he that he drinks to pledges him, and gives the cup to another, and fo to a fourth, till it be empty ; and yet one has not more than the other ; for what this man does for that, that man does for this ; and fo at laft they come to be fo equally fliared, that at the end of the entertainment, they are all alike drunk, and laid down ; for they drink as long as they can ftand. But this is not eafily brought to pafs ; for befides what they drink in the day-time, they will often pafs all night at it, without leaving off, finging and dancing to their drums and flutes. The women, as more bafhful, do not enter into thefe dances, except fome one or two, when the wine has got into their heads, and then too they do not enter into the ring with the men, but dance by themfelves. Few of them get drunk, fo as to lofe their judgment ; fo they are upon their guard more, to mind that the men do not quarrel, and hurt one another in their drink. Their flutes, which they play upon in thefe dances, are made of the bones of the Spaniards, and other enemies, whom they have overcome in war.' This they do by way of triumph and glory for their viftory : they make them likewife of bones of other animals ; but the Indians of war dance only to thefe of their enemies. Their way of finging is, all together raifing their voices upon the fame note, \vith- out any diflerence of parts or meafure ; and at the end of every fong they play on their flutes, and a fort of trumpets, jufl as we do on our guittars in the Paffacalles. This they repeat fo often, and fo loud, that one may hear them at a great diftance ; for in thefe feafts, they are very numerous. Thofe who are not engaged in dancing, fit together in feveral companies, talking together upon part occurrences, and ftill warming themfelves with their wine ; and then they begin to recolleft the injuries they have received from one cinother, and fo refrefhing the memory of old contefts and enmities not revenged ; and this makes them break out into new animofities, and fometinies kill one another upon little provocation. The women as well as the men hsve their arms naked, but no other part about them ; for though they go barefoot, yet their icloaths, which are very long, cover them from head to foot, though in fome places they wear them fhorter : this is a plain fort of mantle, clofe to their bodies, without any linen underneath ; this they let fall to their feet, and having faflened it on their fhoulders, gather it in plaits, and fwathe themfelves from their waiif to the breafts with fome fine coloured woollen fcarf, of about four fingers broad, and fo long, that it takes fo many turns about their v/aift, as to keep their bodies as flraight as any : this is all their drefs within doors. The Indian women of the better fort, that live in towns among the Spaniards, have learned the ufe of fmocks and waiftcoats under their mantles, but of no other thing; and one cannot affront an Indian woman more, than to offer to put her on head-cloaths, or necklaces, or lleeves, or gloves, or any of thofe ornaments which the Spanifh women ufe ; and much more if they oblige them to put any paint upon their faces ; nothing 12 of I 1 8 OVALLe's historical relation of CHILfi. of this kind could ever prevail upon them, though born and bred among the Spanifh women ; and to talk to them of it, even to thofe among them who love to be fine, would be like giving them a cut over the face, fo great a horror they have for any thing that is fo very contrary to their ancient cuftoms. They wear nothing on their heads, but their hair plaited behind their fhoulders, and divided handfomely upon their forehead over their eye-brows, and have locks which cover part of their cheeks ; fo their face is handfomely and fimply adorned, without any artifice. When they go abroad, they put upon their fhoulders another half mantle, fquare, and faftened before with a bodkin, or crotchet, which anfwers the two others on the fhoulders ; and thus they go abroad with their eyes fixed upon the ground ; for they are naturally very modefl honefl women. This manner of cloathing themfelves, with fo much fimplicity and plainnefs, as well in the women as the men, with fo Httle pride and vanity in their houfes, does not much encourage artificers, who have little to do ; and by that means there are the more men of war, which is the thing in which thefe men place their honour and felicity, as other nations do in the fumptuoufnefs of palaces and furniture, or in other riches and emi- nences, either of arts or learning : of all which thefe Indians never had any notion ; and yet they learn them eafily, when they are taught them, and to a great perfection. They can neither read nor write among themfelves ; but as ty their way of remembering and keeping account, they have their Ouipoes, which is a fort of firings of different bignefs, in which they make knots of feveral colours, by which they remember, and can give an account of things committed to their charge. With thefe they will give an account of a great flock, and tell which have died of ficknefs, or other accidents, and which have been fpent in the family, and for the fhepherds ; and they will tell every particular that happened in fuch and fuch occafions, and of what they did and faid. When they go to confefs, thefe Quipoes ferve them to remember their fins, and tell them with diftinftion and clearnefs : they have befides excellent memories of their own, and do remember things of very ancient date, jufl as if they had happened but a little while before ; and when they begin to talk them over, (which happens generally when they drink, and begin to be warmed with wine,J it is wonderful how they will repeat things part, with all their circumflances, and particularly affronts and injuries that have been done them, or their anceflors, refrefhing the memory of things that feemed to be quite forgotten. For proof of the care they take to keep the memory of remarkable paiTages, I muil relate here what I learned from Father Diego Torres Bollo, a very extraordinary man, both for holinefs of life, and fkill in government. This great man returning from Rome (whither he had been fent as procurator of the province of Peru) to found the province of Quito, he faw in a place where four ways met, an Indian, who, to the found of a drum, was fmging a great many things all alone in his own tongue : the father called one in his company, who underftood it, and afked him what that Indian rneant by that adion ; who told the father that that Indian was, as it were, the regifter of that country, who, to keep up the memory of what had pafTed in it from the deluge to that time, was bound every holiday to repeat it by the found of a drum, and finging, as he was then doing. He was moreover obliged to inftruct others in the fame way, that there might be a fucceffion of men to do the fame thing after he was gone ; and that which he at this time is finging is, that in fuch a year there had been there a white man called Thomiis, who did great wonders, preaching a new law, which in time was loft and forgotten, &c. And thus we may fee the manner by which the Indians fupply the want of books and writing. The OVALLE's historical relation or CHILE. 119 The women of Chile are fo bold and manly in their courage, that when it is ne- ceffary, and that there is want of men, they take arms, and behave themfelves as if they were men. They play likewife at a very aftive game called La Chueca, wherein the men fhew their greateft agility and nimblenefs, each fide ftriving to get a ball from the other, and carry it to the mai"k with crooked bandy flicks. They are about forty or fifty on a fide, who place themfelves in different pofts, fo as to be ufeful one to another, and drive away the ball from the other party ; and when it happens that two of different fides are at it together, it is a pleafure to fee them run, the one to forward it with another ftroke, and the other to get before him and hinder him from flriking it, that he may drive it back to his own fide. This is a fport much to be feen, and generally it has many fpeftators to fee the end of the play, which often lafls a whole evening, and fometimes is forced to be put off to another day ; fuch contention there is to win thefe pjizes they play for. The ftrength and boldnefs of the women comes from the little tendernefs they are bred with, for they avoid neither heat nor cold ; and in the coldeft winters, when birds are killed with cold, they wafh their heads in cold water, and never dry their hair, but let it remain wet, and dry itfelf in the air ; and as for their children, they wafh them in the rivers, when they are yet very young ; and when they are brought to bed, in a very little time they are about the houfe, as if it were not they, but fome other woman that had lain in. If the women behave themfelves thus, what may be expefted from the men ? It is a wonderful thing how little they fear weather, though in the midfl of winter ; and to fee an Indian, with that fimple habit we have defcribed, his head bare, without hat, or any other covering. I have feen them in this condition endure mighty fhowers, which wet them all over, and came out at their breeches, and yet laugh and not value that which to others would have been infupportable. I remember, upon this occafion, what was faid by a Spanifli gentleman of a merry humour, to one newly come from Europe, who, with great charity, was pitying thefe poor Indians for their fufferings in winter, which in that country is very fevere. The gentleman afked the good father what he had to keep his face from the cold ? To which he anfwered, nothing, becaufe every body's face was ufed to the weather. To which the gentleman replied, thefe Indians are all face ; for from their infancy they have no defence againft the cold. Who is it that pities a trout, or other fifh, for being in the water, becaufe they are bred in that element ? the fame may be faid of thefe Indians, who are like fifties, and are bred to all that hardfhip ; and fo we need not wonder at it. By thefe means they are fo hardened, that a wound which the bravefl: Spaniard would take his bed for, does give them fo little trouble, that I have feen them go about without minding it. I have known them have a broken head by accident at play, and all they do is to wafh it in cold water, never leaving their employ- ment or bufinefs ; and with this, and the application of their own herbs, which, indeed, are of great virtue, they are foon well ; but the excellency of their own con- ftitution helps not a little to their cure in wounds, as well as all other diflempers, out of which they get well with a great deal lefs time and care than the Spaniards. 1 1 I20 ovalle's historical relation of chile. CHAP. V. — Of other Qualities proper to the Natives of Chile. FROM this ftrong conftitution comes the admirable patience of their minds, and the little fenfe they fhew of that which amongfl us Europeans would be a great mor- tification. That which happened between an Indian and Father Lewis of Valdivia is admirable upon this fubjeft. The Indian came to confefs to the father ; who, to make him enter into a penance for his fins, ordered him to weat a alice, or hair-cloth, upoQ his fldn : it was a very hard one, and fuch as would have punifhed one of us feverely. The Indian put it on, and about a year after, there was a proceffion of the holy facra- ment, at which he danced, and feeing his confeffor in the church, he left his danc- ing, and came to him faying, " Looic here how I have preferved what thou gaveft me a year ago, " and Ihewed it him upon his naked fkin. The father was aftonifhed to fee, that what he gave him to mortify him, was turned to an ornament ; and afking him how long he had worn it, was anfwered by him, " I have never left it off one minute fmce thou gaveft it me ; " and fo returned to his dancing, fhewing his compa- nions the prefent the father had made him, as pleafed with it, as if it had been a gold or filver brocade ; and fo far he was from taking it for mortification, or feeling its roughnefs, that he wore it for a favour given him by his father confeffor, Thefe Indians of Chile are the faireft complexioned and whiteft of all America ; and thofe of the coldeft countries are the whiteft, as we fee in Europe ; but the very anti- podes of Flanders never came to be fo white as the Flemings ; and among all the Chilenians, I do not remember a red-haired one ; for they all, both men and women, have black hair, and that very rough, and hard, and thick ; infomuch that the mef- titos, or mungrel breed of a Spanifli man and Indian woman, are known and diftin- guifhed by that from the children of a Spanilh man and Spanifh woman ; and this will laft to the fecond and third generations before it foftens. There is little difference in any thing elfe, either of (hape, feature, or difpofition ; nor in the manner of fpeak- ing, or found of the voice ; and as for the language, not only the meftitos, but the Indians bred among the Spaniards, are as ready at the phrafe and turn of the Spanifh tongue, as any Spaniard. I have made experience of this often in confefTmg them ; for the confeftionary is fo turned, as the father-confeffor cannot fee the woman that enters to confefs. It happened to me often to have an Indian woman come in after a Spanifh woman, and I could not find any difference, till fhe herfelf, finding I ufed her with that diftinftion and civility due to Spanifti ladies, would humbly tell me fhe was but an Indian. The conftitution of thefe people is the caufe that time does not make fo flrong an impreffion on them, as on us ; and they bear their years mighty well, turning grey very late, at three fcore or thereabouts ; and till then they look like young men. When they are over white, or have any baldnefs, you may guefs them at about an hundred : they all live long, and particularly the women ; and when by age they lofe their judgment, they feldom falter in their memory, which lafts them to their dying day, even to remember all the particulars of their young days from their infancy. Their teeth and eyes are fo good, that they feldom lofe either ; and, in fhort, all the infirmities of old men, which are the forerunners of death, come to them later than to the other nations. But yet, if they happen to go out of their own country, they lofe all their vigour, as we experience daily in our prifoners of war ; who being fold to Peru, as foon as they feel the heat of the tropic, they fall fick, and moft of them die : and this is no more than what happens to the Spaniards, when they come from their OVALLE's historical relation of chile. 121 their own climate to Porto Bello, or Panama ; nay, the Spaniards born in Chile ven- ture their lives that go to thofe countries that are between the tropics. From this experience the Indians have of the hot countries, comes the great reluc- tancy they fhew to go out of their own, and the refentment they exprefs againft thofe who carry or fend them abroad : and it is not to be imagined the ftrange and rafh contrivances they have to make their efcapes from Lima-; for though they have above five hundred leagues to go to their own home from Peru, yet they undertake it, and moft commonly compafs It, through a vafl number of dangers and inconveniences. For firft, they are forced to go all along by the fea-fide, by which one may guefs how much they go about, fince they fetch the compafs of all the bays and nooks, and double all the capes. The next inconvenience which they meet with, is want of food ; for they dare not enter any town, or inhabited place ; fo they are reduced to feed on cockles and other Ihell-fifh on the fea-fide, which is no very good nourifhment. The third difficulty is the paffing of fo many and fuch fwift rivers. The fourth inconvenience is the want of water to drink ; for it is not pofFible, that in fo great a journey they fhould not fometimes mifs of frelh water to quench their thirft. All thefe difficulties, and many others, which are obvious to travellers, are overcome by thefe Indians by length of time and patience ; and they get at laft to their own country, and are out of flavery, not by the means of gold and filver, but by the bravery of their minds. The boldnefs of fome other Indians was yet more remarkable : thefe were carried in a fhip to be fold as flaves at Lima; by a Portuguefe gentleman of the Habit of Chrifl, who was going about things belonging to war, at the time that I went the fame voyage : this navigation is made commonly in fight of the coaft, more or lefs, accord- ing as the winds ferve ; but flill they keep a good way out at fea, for fear of the rocks. Thefe Indians refolved among themfelves to throw themfelves into the fea, to avoid this flavery ; and one day, when they found the fliip in a proportionable diftance to the fhore, fo as they durfl: venture to truft to their fwimming, they got loofe very dexteroufly from their fetters, and Aid, without being perceived, down by the fhip's fide into the fea ; and when they miffed them they were out of fight, and fo it was in vain to follow them. Among thefe prifoners there was an old man, who either becaufe he was not trufted by the others, or becaufe they had not the opportunity of , acquainting him with the defign, he not being (hut up with them, but having the liberty of the fliip as an old man, remained behind after they were gone. This Indian began to think of the thing, and to weigh with himfelf how his companions had under- taken and performed an extraordinary a£tion ; he reflefted how they had arrived at their own land, and among their friends, who perhaps were inquiring about him, and that every body defpifed him as a coward, and a man of little fpirit, fince he had not been able to overcome the adverfe fortune which the others had conquered, but had fubmitted to it : he reprefented to himfelf the welcomes and joys which their friends expreffed, and the feafts and entertainments made for their return, and the embraces and careffes which they received from their relations. All this, I fay, made fuch an impreffion on his mind, and raifed fuch an emulation, that he could not bear the reproaches he made himfelf, particularly feeing himfelf without a remedy. At laft, after much thought and penfivenefs, he came to a refolution, which was, to do fome- tbing which fhould be bolder than what his companions had performed, and that in the manner of doing it ; for he refolved to do it by day, and in the fight of all the Spaniards ; and for a beginning, he defigned to kill his mafter, not in the night, and VOL. XIV. R without 122 ovalle's historical relation of chile. •without witnefles, as he might eafily have done, but upon the deck, in the fight of all thofe in the Ihip, to get himfelf a greater name of bravery. To this end, he took one day, a great knife in his hand, and fell upon the captain ; and having wounded him in feveral places, with as much precipitation as he could, leaped overboard with fo much fuddennefs, that he flipped away from thofe who endeavoured to feize him. It is to be imagined they were all wonderfully furprized at the refolutenefs of the adlion : they immediately brought the (hip to, and put out the boat in all the hafte that could be to follow the Indian, who, fwimniing like a fifli, was already almofl; out of fight ; but they overtook him, and bid him yield himfelf a prifoner, fince he could not efcape ; and finding him flill endeavour to get away, they ftruck at him with their launces, but he dexteroufly avoided all their ftrokes with great prefence of mind, diving and appearing again where they leafl expefted him. Upon this they fired upon him, and wounded him in feveral places ; but neither then did he yield, nor would ever have had a thought of it, but the lofs of blood taking away his ftrength, had made him unable to get away, fo they brought him almoft expiring to the Ihip, having more valued death with the reputation of a brave man, than life with the infamy of a coward, and the lofs of reputation among his own people. This fa£t does not only fliew the bravery of the nation, but likewife their great averfion to go out of their own country, and how heavy a yoke they think fubjeclion to be ; and we fhall fee hereafter how much they have done to defend their beloved liberty. Now let us fpeak of fome other cuftoms thefe Indians have. They folemnize their marriages their own way, and in a very contrary manner to that of the Europeans ; for as to the portion, the woman does not provide it, but the man ; and neither of them enjoy it, but it pafles to the propriety and ufe of the father of the young woman ; fo that the hufband has a charge upon him of maintaining his wife without any help ; nay, rather with lefs ability, for he parts with fome of his fubftance to purchafe her : fo that in this country it is no charge at all to have many daughters, but rather a part of their eftate and fubftance. They take many wives ; and the greateft obftacle they have to be converted to our religion, is this vice of polygamy, which they embrace with great fenfuality, though it is chargeable, becaufe at the fame time it is a figure of power and riches. The firfl wife has fome pre-eminence over the others, and has the ordering of them, yet they all look upon themfelves as lawful wives, and their children as legitimate ; yet the fon of the firft inherits the eftate and the honour of Cacique, and has a power over his other brothers. The fubjedts obey their lord with great punduaKty, love, and refpeft ; and for this reafon they have no ftrong places or prifons to hold them in ; for their natural love and refped they bear their Cacique, is a law inviolable in their hearts, and a reward of their obedience, which they ftiow in all regards that may pleafe him. Wheil a Cacique has a mind to make war, he need not make provifion of money for pay, without which, amongft us, men will not fight, even for their king. He need only give out his orders, and they all come with arms and horfes, bearing their own charges during the enterprize ; and this is the i-eafon that they can affemble fo powerful an army in fo little time, they all looking upon the common caufe as their own ; and as they make the good of their country the motive of their arms, every one thinks himfelf fufficiently rewarded if they can defend that from their enemies. The found of the drum and trumpet is only to fliew them the neceffity of their meeting in arms ; at which they immediately leave wife and children, and all that is dear to them, with the hazard of never feeing them more, as it often happens. In ovalle's historical relation of chile. 123 In the diilriburion of the booty and flaves taken in war, there is no other method, than that every one has what he can get, fo that the bravefl; and mofl diligent are the beft provided, without any obligation of giving any part of it to their captains or general ; for in this they are all equal, and valour alone makes the diftinftion, which they Ihow in an eminent degree, being very defirous to recover fome of our arms, fuch as guns, fwords, lances ; for they have no iron of their own. When they return from war, and find what men they have loft, it is incredible what lamentations, cries, and tears, proceed from the widows and children of thofe who are dead ; and though this be a common fentiment of humanity, pradifed amongft all nations who value fociety and proximity of blood, which are the foundation of triendihip, yet the Indian women feem to furpafs all others ; for they do not cry in fecret, but fet up their notes, fo that when any one hears them at a diftance, it provokes more to laughter than moves to compafllon. When a man dies at home, the manner of their expreff- ing their forroiv is more remarkable ; for the women all get about the dead body, and the eldeft beginning, the others follow all in the fame tone ; and thus they con- tinue a great while, fo that they never give over as long as they can hold out ; and this cuftom they preferve, even after they are baptized, and live among Chriftians ; but not that which they had of opening the dead bodies, to know of what difeafe they died, and to put meat, and drink, and clothes in their grave with them, as alfo jewels and things of value ; neither do they cover their graves with pyramids of ftones, nor ufe other ceremonies practifed by the gentiles of thofe parts. CHAP. VI. — * Of the Chilenian Indians, who inhabit the IJlands of Chile. WE divided the kingdom of Chile into three parts, and the Iflands made one: thefe are very well peopled : thofe who live in the fertile iflands, which are capable of producing corn, and feeding flocks, pafs their lives as the Indians of Terra Firma do, eating flefli, and feveral fruits, the produft of their iflands. Thofe who inhabit the barren or lefs fertile iflands, eat fifh of the fea, and Ihell-fifli, as alfo potatoes ; and fome, who cannot have any wool, clothe themfeves with the barks of trees. Some go ftark naked, though their climate is mighty cold, and by cuftom do not feel the hardinefs of the weather overmuch. Others have a ftrange way of clothing themfelves, which is to gather a certain earth with roots about it, to give it a confiftency ; and others clothe themfelves vnth feathers, as Brother Gregory of Leon reports in his map. They are all tall men, and in fome places there are giants, as the Dutch relate, who fay, they found fculls that would contain within them fome of their heads ; for they ufed to put them on like helmets : they found alfo dead men's bones of ten and eleven feet long, whofe bodies, by confequence, muft have been thirty feet high, which is a prodigious thing. Thofe whom they faw alive, were generally taller by the head and flioulders than the Dutch. This appears by the relation of General Schewten ; and from that of George Spilberg we learn, that when they were in the ftraights of Magellan, they came to an ifland, which they called the ifland of Patagoons, or giants, becaufe of fome they faw there, and on the Terra del Fuego. Among the reft, they faw one who was upon a rock, to fee the fliips go by, and they fay of him, that he was immanis admodum, et horrendcs longitudinis. Likewife we know, from the fleet commanded by Don Fray Garcia, Jofre de Loaifa, a Knight of St. John's order, that at the cape of the Eleven Thoufand Virgins they R 2 found 124 eVALLE S HISTORICAL RELATION OF CHILE. found the footfteps of men of a large ftature, and met two canoes of favages, whom, becaufe of their ftrength and ftature, they called giants; they came near the fliips, and feemed to threaten them ; but thofe of the fhip endeavouring to follow them, they could not come up with them, for they rowed fo fwiftly, they feemed to fly. It is probable that thefe canoes were made of the ribs of whales, which are there in abundance : and they found one before with the fides and fteerage of whale-bone. In another voyage, made by Thomas Candifh, an Englilh gentleman, they found in a port, (in a very inacceflible place,) a con pany of Indians, very lufty men, who, notwithftanding the prodigious cold of that country, lived in the woods like Satyrs, and fhewed fo much ftrength, that they would throw ftones of three or four pounds weight a great way. We read likewife in the relation of the voyage of Magellan, that as he wintered in the bay and river of St. John, there came to the fhip fix Indians, fo tall, that the loweft of them was taller than the talleft Spaniard aboard ; that having made a great kettle of the fweepings of the bifcuit for them, enough for twenty men, thofe fix eat it up entirely, without leaving a crumb of it. Magellan gave them a fort of coats of red wool, with which they were much pleafed, never having feen any before ; their ordinary wear being deer-fkins. They learned from them, that in the fummer they ufed to come down to the fea-fide to Hve, but in the winter they withdrew more into the heart of the country. We know likewife by thefe fame authors, that the number of the Indians that inhabit thofe coafts, is confiderable, particularly in the port called the port of Shell-fifli ; where as foon as they landed, great numbers of Indians, with their wives and children, came to them, and exchanged with them great quantities of pearl, ready wrought in points, like diamonds, very artfully, for fciflars, knives, and other baubles ; as alfo for Spanifh wine, which pleafed them extremely ; but they came no more, for they were frighted with feeing the Spaniards fhoot fome game. The fleet of George Spilberg found alfo great numbers of inhabitants in the land, on the other fide of the ftraight ; and when the captains, called the Nodales, were, by the king's order, to view the ftraight of St. Vincent, they found, upon a point of land of that ftraight, great ftore of people. The fame is faid by the Saballas, and others who went from Peru to fearch the Terra del Fuego ; and all thofe who have pafled the ftraights, have conftantly feen men and inhabitants on the fliore in feveral places ; and at one place fome of Spilberg's men landing to purfue fome birds of a very fine colour, which they faw on fliore, had fcarce begun to flioot them, but they were environed with Indians, who attacked them fo furioufly with clubs, that happy was he that could make his efcape to the fhip ; and many of th^n were knocked on the head. The Nodales likewife faw in the bay of St. Gregory great numbers of inhabitants, with whom the feamen drove a trade, by exchanging fome Spanifh trifles for gold. By all which it is apparent how well peopled all that coaft and the iflands are ; yet we do not know what fort of people inhabit the fourfcore iflands difcovered by Pedro Sar- miento, for nobody landed out of that fleet ; but we know that the iflanders of Mocha are a peaceable civil nation, feveral fhips having touched there, and at Sanfta Maria.. As for the nation called the Chonos, they are a poor people, but good-natured, as has been feen by the Chilenians, in whom the Spaniards have found great docility, and a good underftanding. In the iflands difcovered by Francis Drake, in about five and fifty degrees, of which we have already made mention, they met with canoes of men and women ftark naked, which is the more remarkable, becaufe of the excefllve cold of thofe parts, where 1 1 there OVALLE S HISTORICAL RELATION OF CHILE. 1 25 there is a continual night, without any appearance of day, when the fun coining to the tropick of Cancer, makes our fummer ; on the contrary, when he draws near the tropick of Capricorn, there is continual day, without any fhadow of night. An(J now lately, in the year forty-three, the Dutch having fent a fleet under the command of Anthony Brun, which pafTed the ftraights with a defign to fettle at Val- divia, as they endeavoured ; they failed afterwards into feventy degrees, where they difcovered an ifland, which they called Barnevelt, in which they faw the footfteps of men of large ftature, and obferved great fmoaks : this place was fo cold, that the Dutch could not endure the rigour of the weather, which was nothing but frofl and fnow, it being then June or July, which is the depth of their winter, and a perpetual night, without feeing the fun one hour in a day. It is a wonder how thefe illanders pals their time in fo much cold and darknefs, without any thing to cover their naked- nefs ; for wanting commerce with Chile, or other parts in Europe, they have neither fheep nor goats, nor any thing that produces wool fit to make them garments. It mufl: be owned, that men are quite other creatures than the nice imagination of fome effeminate nations takes them to be ; and human nature, by cuftoni, accommodates itfelf to the place where it is bred, fo that very often men will not leave that place for any other more full of conveniency. It is for this that thefe Indians fhow fuch an aver- fion to leave their country where they were born and bred ; and though it be a mifer- able one, and thofe they go to more delicious, yet there is no fweetnefs in any one like that of their own country. There is a report likewife, that in the ftraights of Magellan there are pigmies, but I know not upon what it is founded ; for all the authors that relate the voyages made into thofe parts, fpeak always of giants, or men of a gigantick form, who exceed us in fti-ength and ftature ; and it is faid in one of thefe relations, that the fhip's men, in a certain place, beginning to fight with thefe Indians, they pulled up great trees by the roots, to ufe them as a retrenchment, as we may lee in a picture in Theodore and Jean de Bry ; but I cannot imagine how this report of pigmies was invented ; and it ieems to me a jeft or irony, or, perhaps, among thefe giants there are fome dwarfs. That which was feen by the vice-admiral of George Spilberg's fleet, was a body of about two feet and a half high, which was buried with another of an ordinary ftature in a grave of very little depth, and covered after the Indian way, with a pyramid of ftones, in an ifland called the Great Ifland, about the fecond mouth of the ftraights ; and from hence, perhaps, or from having feen fome of that littlenefs alive, this report of pigmies took its rife. , This is all the account I can give of the inhabitants of the ftraights, and iflands about it. Time will, perhaps, enable us to be more particular, when by commerce we are better acquainted with them ; and then, without doubt, there will not be wanting authors to write about them. CHAPt^ VII. — Of the Indians of Cuyo, who are on the other Side of the Cordillera, to the Eaji of Chile. THE Indians of the province of Cuyo, though in many thmgs they are like the inhabitants of Chile, yet in many others they are not fo. For firft, they are not fo white, but more copper-coloured, which may be attributed to the great heat they en- dure in fummer. Secondly, they are not fo cleanly, nor do not build fuch neat houfes to live in : but their habitations are wretched j nay fome, who live in the marihes, make 126 ovalle's historical relation of chile. make themfelves holes in the fand, into which they go like wild beafls. Thirdly, they are not fo laborious to cultivate their land, and fo have not fuch variety of product as thofe of Chile. Fourthly, they are not fo brave nor warlike as the Indians of Chile : their language is likewife different, and fo different, that I do not know one word of the one that is in the other ; but yet the language of Chile being fo univerfal, that it is the fame all over kingdom, to the foot of the Cordillera ; thofe of Cuyo learned it too, and that very perfectly ; but I never obferved that a Chile Indian fpoke the lan- guage of Cuyo, which fhews the advantage that the language of Chile has over the other. In return of thefe advantages which the Chilenians have, thofe at Cuyo have fome over them. And the firfl is in the ftature, which is taller, but not fo ftrong and well fet as the Chilenians, but rather raw-boned, without flefh. I do not remember I ever faw a fat Cuyian among fo many as I have feen. They are likewife better workmen in fome things which require patience and length of time, fuch as bafket-work of fe- veral figures, all of ftraw ; and yet fo clofe worked, that they will hold water ; for which reafon they make their drinking veffels of them ; and as they cannot break by a fall upon the ground, they are very lading, and the curiofities of this kind, which they make, very much valued for their work and colours. Likewife they prepare feveral furs of animals, which they hunt ; and they are very foft and warm for winter : they hunt and catch oflriches likewife, and make many works of their feathers, with which they adorn themfelves on their feflivals, mingled with the feathers of other birds. They likewife hunt the wild goats and deer, and are the mafters of all the Bezoar-ftones, which they fell to the Spaniards fo dear, that any one who fhould buy them to get by them, would make but a fmall profit in Europe. Thefe Cuyians are alfo more hair)', and have more beard than the Chilenians, though they pull their hair as the others do, but with more trouble ; and they never look fo fmooth as thofe of Chile. They are all well-lhaped, and nimble, and have a good air : they have alfo good underftandings. The women are tall and flender, and I do not know that I ever faw taller : they paint their faces green, which is fo well fettled in their fldn, that there is no getting it out : mofl: commonly they paint only their noftrils, fome their whole faces, and the men their beards and lips. Their habit is decent in both fexes ; the women let their hair grow as long as they can, but the men only below their ears, In all other things are like the Chilenians. They are very nimble, and good travellers, without tiring. I have feen them run up the ftiffefl and ftraighteft hills of the great Cordillera, like fo many goats ; and this the women will do as well as the men ; nay, the little children too. The women will run with their children in a cradle faftened to their backs by a ftrap that comes over their forehead ; and with all this weight they follow their hulbands with fo much eafe and agility, that it is wonderful. For a proof of the admirable difpofition of thefe people, in walking and running, a corrigidor and captain-general of that province told me a ftory about their hunting their venifon, which is very fingular ; he told me, that as foon as they find their game out, they draw near them, and follow them upon an half trot, keeping them flill in fight, without leaving them fo much as to eat ; and in a day or two they begin to tire them fo as they can come up with them, and kill them, and return home loaded with them, where they feaft upon them, with their families, till they have made an end : for thefe Indians are fuch gluttons naturally, that a few of them will eat up a calf, or a young heifer in a meeting : but they -are as good at fading, when they have nothing to eat ; for they will pafs feveral days with a little maize and fome I o roots ovalle's historical relation of chile. 127 roots, which grow wild : they are alfo very dexterous archers, and often kill with their arrows the game they fee. I fhall not omit a particular favour bellowed on thefe Indians by God Almighty, which is a fmgular inftind of tracing and following any loft thing. Of which I Ihall give two examples which happened in the city of St. Jago. Our college had a cart belonging to it, which flood at the gate of a garden, to which our Seminarifts did ufe to go to refrefh themfelves ; it was ftole one night, and being miffed in the 'morning by one of our lay-brothers, he immediately went to find out a Guarpe (for this is the name they give thofe finding Indians) ; he prefently fell upon the fcent or pille, and followed it, taking with him the lay-brother, till he came to a river, where it failed him : but he loft not the hopes of finding it ; he croffed the river, and recroffed it again, once and twice, by fo many different fords, (the man that ftole it, as he fince confeffed, had croffed fo many times to break the pifte to the follower.) After this he went four leagues outright, and there he found it, when the man that had it, believed himfelf moft fafe from being difcovered. Another time, a certain perfon having loft a parcel of oranges, he employed a Guarpe, who having led him through many ftreets and turnings, brought him at laft to a houfe ; where finding the door fliut, he bid him knock, and go in. For there, faid he, are thy oranges. He did fo, and found them. There are every day experi- ments of this kind made by them to admiration : they are likewife ftout workers, very ftrong and lafting in labour. Next to thefe Indians of Cuyo, are the Indians Pampas, called fo becaufe they inhabit thofe vaft plains, which are extended for about four hundred leagues to the eaft, and reach to the North-Sea. Thofe of the point of Los Venados are the neareft the kingdom of Chile, and are much of the fame kind. Thefe Pampas have no houfes, in which they differ from all mankind ; for the firft thing men generally do, is to cover themfelves from the inclemency of the air : and this is the thing which thefe Pampas do the leaft care for ; perhaps they are of opinion, that it is an iujury to the to the Author of mankind, to look for more flielter than he afforded men at firft, which is the earth, with the heavens for vault or cover ; and that to defend themfelves from rain, it was enough to make any little cover, which might be eafily taken away, and fet up in another place. This they obferve ; and look upon it as a fort of prifon or captivity, to be tied to one place : for this reafon they will neither have houfe, nor gardens, nor plantations, or poffeffions, which are like chains to hinder their removal to other places ; for they judge that the greateft of all earthly felicities is to have the abfolute, entire, and independent ufe of their own free will ; to live to-day in one place, to-morrow in another. Sometimes, fay they, I have a mind to enjoy the frefhnefs of the river-fide, and being weary of that I pafs to another. Otherwhile I have a mind to live in woods and folitudes ; and when I am weary of their fltades, I go to the open air of plains and meadows. In one place I hunt, in another I fifh ; here I enjoy the fruits of one terri- tory ; and when they fail, I feek out another, where they are beginning to ripen. In fhort, I go where I will, without leaving behind me any thing I regret or defire, which ufes to be the torment of thofe who are fixed. I fear no ill news, for I forfake nothing I can lofe ; and with the company of my wife and children, which I always have, I want for nothing. This is the account that thefe people give of themfelves ; and thus they pafs a life without cares ; here to-day, to-morrow in another place ; making in an inftant, with four little ports, a hut covered with boughs, or fome hide of a beaft. Their incomes are 128 OVALLe's historical llELATION 01 CHILE. are their bows and arrows, with which they provide them with flefh, with which they drink water ; only fometimes they make their drink, called Chica, of fruits of the trees, as they do in Chile. Their clothes are fome leaves for decency, and a fldn, which is like a cloak to cover them in other parts. They make holes in their lips, and put fome glafs or brafs pendants in them, and fometimes filver ones. The men let their hair grow to their Ihoulders, and the women as long as it will. There feems to be one thing wanting to this nation, which all other Indian nations have., which is the bread they make of maize, or wheat, or fome of rice : but yet they do not want a fupply of this kind ; for becaufe they have not thefe grains, they make bread of the cods of a tree, which we in Spain call Algaroba, ; and becaufe that does not laft long, they have invented a ftrange fort of bread made of locufls, (nay, I have heard of Mofquitos ;) but the locufts ufed to be in fuch vaft quantides hi thofe great plains called the Pampas, that as I travelled over them, I often faw the fun intercepted, and the air darkened with flights of them. The Indians obferve where they light to reft ; and thofe plains being here and there full of thickets, they reft in them, and chufe the higheft for fhelter. 'Fhis the Indians know ; and approaching foftly in the night, they fet fire to the thicket, which, with the high winds that reign in thofe plains, is foon reduced to alhes, and the locufts with them. Of thefe they make great heaps ; and as they are ready roafted, they have nothing more to do, but to grind them to powder ; of the flour of which they make a fort of bread, which maintains them. To the fame end they uf6 an herb called Cibil, which, either by paft with the devil, or by natural virtue, affords them a fuftenance for feveral days, only by keeping it in their mouths, where it makes a white foam, which appears upon their lips : it is a very difagreeable fight, and made me very fick to fee it. Though thefe people are not fo warlike as the Chile Indians, yet they are coura- geous, and have fliewed it upon feveral occafions. They are very dexterous at their bows and arrows, with which they make incredible fliots. But befides thefe, they have a very extraordinary fort of a weapon of a new kind, which is made of two balls, the one bigger, and is a ftone perfedlly well rounded, about the bignefs of an ordinary orange ; the other is of a bladder or hard leather, which they fill with fome matter of lefs weight than the ftone : thefe two balls are tied ftrongly to each end of a ftrong whipcord, which they twift off a bull's pizzle : the Indian Handing on a high ground, takes the leffer ball in his hand, and lets the other fly, holding it like a fling over his head to take aim, and hit his adverfary with the heavy ball, which they direft to the head, or legs of their enemy ; and thus they entangle him fo, as to bring him to the ground, and then the Indian leaps from the height where he was, and without giving him time to difembarrafs himfelf, they kill him ; and this inftru- ment is fo powerful in their hands, that it . not only brings a man to the ground, but a horfe or a wild bull, which are very frequent in thofe parts, fince the coming of the Spaniards among them. At this time they have no wars with any ; for though they do not own a fubjcction, yet they carry themfelves to the Spaniards very friendly : and the reafon is, becaufe they fee their towns fo populous and ftrong, that it would be in vain for them to ftir, or make any attempt againft them : they have the liberty of going in or out as they pleafe ; and when they have taken a kindnefs for a Spaniard, there will come a troop of them in harveft time to help him to get it in, and when it is over, they return to their own way of hving : but there are others who come in troops to the highway, and if the Spaniards are not well armed, attack them in their waggons ; for which OVALLE's historical relation of chile. ISO which reafon they feldoni fet out but a great many together, and well provided for an encounter ; but moft commonly they are well pleafed with fome little prefent, which they aik very boldly, as if they were mafters of all the goods in the waggons : they generally are content with a little bifcuit or wine ; but if the travellers are too niggardly, they are in danger all the way, and muft owe their fafety to their fire-arms. BOOK IV. OF THE FIRST ENTRANCE OF THE SPANIARDS INTO THE KINGDOM OF CHILE. CHAP. I. — The Inirodudion to this Book. XJAVING hitherto treated of thofe three parts, into which at firft we divided the kingdom of Chile ; of its foil and climate ; of its temperature and properties ; of its inhabitants, and their antiquity, nobihty, and cuftoms ; the order of this hiftory requires we fliould now treat of the entrance of the Spaniards into their country ; fince by that it has been changed much for the better in many things : and although what we have already mentioned about the flocks, fruit, bread, vsdne, oil, &c. of which they had no idea, before the Spaniards came among them ; yet this is nothing in comparifon with the advantages they received bythe light of the gofpel, which by the means of the fame Spaniards, was and is communicated to them. Upon this confideration, we may well excufe fome military exceffes of covetoufnefs in fome of the firft difcoverers and their foldiers, who as fuch, and men who are bred in diforder and confufion, and ufed to embrue their hands in blood where they find refiftance, had lefs regard to the ftrict rules of juftice towards the Indians. But this was againft all the orders of Their Catholic Majefties, who from the beginning recommended moft ftriftly the prefer\'ation of the privileges of thofe poor people, charging all their governors, captains, conquerors, and royal minifters, that they fhould always have before their eyes, in the conqueft of this new world, not fo much the dilatation of their royal power and monarchy, as the propagation of the gofpel, and the kind ufage of the Indians, their converfion being the principal motive of the undertaking, as we ftiall fee in its proper place. But how is it poffible, morally fpeaking, that human aftions, though never fo well defigned upon high motives, fhould not have a mixture of the inconveniences which paflion, not overcome by reafon, produces ? and fo it is no wonder, that in the beginning of thofe difcoveries fome diforders fhould happen, though they never were fo exorbitant as fome authors make them ; and particularly in Chile they were niuch lefs, becaufe the inhabitants of thofe parts made the Spaniards feel their valour at their very firft entrance, where they found their progrefs oppofed with greater vigour than they imagined. But fince this Idngdom is one of the confiderable parts of America, it will be necef- fary firft to fay fomething of the difcovery of the new world ; for this being the VOL. XIV. s reraoteft 130 ovalle's historical relation of chile. remoten; part of it towards the fouth, it was neceffary to pafs all the reft before it could be difcovered ; and therefore, though I have not a defign to make any relation but of the kingdom of Chile, I Ihall neverthelefs touch upon the other difcoveries, and follow the fteps of the conquerors in order, as the hiftories of them do relate ; fo the fubjeft of this book will be better underftood, by opening the manner of the finding them, and the order of time in which this progrefs was made ; and fo place each kingdom according to its antiquity. CHAP. II. — Of America in general, and what light may be found of the it amo?ig anticnt Philofephers, AMERICA, called otherwife the New World, becaufe of its late difcovery, is now as well known as it was formerly hid for fo many pafled ages, not only to the vulgar, but to thofe piercing wits among the pagans, Ariftotle, Parmenldes, Pliny ; and among the chriftian philofophers, to St. Auftin, Laftantius, and others, who judged all that chmate to be inhabitable that lay between the tropics, founding their opinion upon a point of their philofophy, which was, that the prefervation of the animal demanded by its temper the jull proportion of the firft four qualities, which they fup- pofed could not be found under the torrid zone ; for fo they called it, becaufe of the force of the fun upon it, it being all the year almoft perpendicular to it j and having obferved its effeds on this fide the tropics, how it dries the earth in fummer, confumes the fountains, thinking that if it did not withdraw to the other tropic, it would have entirely fired the earth, though refrefhed by the nights, it is no wonder if they were perfuaded that where its beams were continual, there could be no habitation for man. But experience, which is the touch-ftone of all philofophical difcourfes, has difco- vered that not only there is a plain paifage, though troublefome, from one pole to the other, but alfo that thofe regions contained under the Zodiac have been, and are inhabited by innumerable nations ; and that there are even under the equinoftial line, fome places, as that of Quito, fo temperate and healthy, that they are manifeftly pre- ferable to feveral in the temperate zone. This new world has, by common confent, been called America unjuftly enough, as Herrera complains in the firft book of his fifth decade, by the crafty uiurpation of this difcovery appropriated to Americo Vefpu- fio, inftead of Columbus, who by this means is deprived of his true glory. It is not eafy to make out what knowledge the antients have had of this new world : Marinco Siculo pretends, in his Spanifh Chronicles, that the Romans had known it, and made fome conquefts in it ; and his foundation is, that in one of the gold mines of America, there was found a medal or antient coin, with the figure of Auguftus Csefar ; which, he fays, was fent to the pope by Joannes Rufo, archbi/hop of Co- zenfa ; but this is refuted, as ridiculous, by Pedro Bercio in his geography ; and it is not very probable, that that coin alone, and no other, fhould have been found in all this length of time, fmce the mines are working in the Weft-Indies. But, befides, if the Romans had been once in poifeffion of thofe parts, it would not have been eafy to have loft all commerce with them, confidering the great riches that com- munication produces ; for the nations would have called in one another, as we fee they have done fince the difcovery made by Their Catholic Majefties, and their poflef- fing of thofe parts, to which there goes every year fo much people from Europe. As to the Roman coin, it is probable that fome who pafted from Europe with the firft conquerors of the Indies, and out of a humour of fpreading novelties, (which I o though OVALLE S HISTORICAL RELATION OF CHILE. I31 though little worth, are generally applauded by the vulgar,) feigned he had found it in the mines ; or it might fall from him, and be found by another, who carried it as a rarity to the bilhop, who is faid to have fent it to the pope. I am not ignorant that tliere ai'e many arguments and conjeftures, and thofe not contemptible, of fome knowledge that the antients had of this fo principal a part of our globe, which are related by Abraham Ortelius, Goropius, father Acofla of our company, in his firft book of the Hiftory of the Indies, chap, ii, 12, and 13. Thomas Bofius, book XX. chap. 3. Malvenda, Friar Gregory Garcia, in the firll book of the Origin of the Indians, taking their hints from Plato, Seneca, Lucian, Arrian, Clemens Romanus, Origen, St. Jerome, and others, who feem to have had fome knowledge of this new world. There may be feen in Father Pineda, of our fociety, in the fourth book about Solo- mon's Court, chap. lO. the words of Abraham Ortelius, which make .very much to this purpofe. CHAP. III. — What light may be had from Scripture about this new region. THERE is another queftion which feems to be better founded than the firft ; and that is, what light may be had from fcripture about tnefe remote regions ? becaufe there are many authors, who from thefe words of the fecond of Chronicles, chap. iv. " The fervants of Hiram brought, with the fervants of Solomon, gold from Ophir, " mfer, that the fcripture here fpeaks of the Weft-Indies, and interpret Ophir to be Peru, or all America ; and as the moft famous Chriftopher Columbus was the firft who difcovered it, fo he feems to have been the firft that ufed that expreffion ; for they fay, that when he was in the ifland of Hifpaniola, he often faid, that at laft he was come to the defired land of Ophir, as is related by Peter Martyr, in his firft book of the Decade of the Ocean. But he who firft fet out this opinion in form, was Francis Vatable, who upon the third book of Kings, in the ninth chapter, and fo on, makes Ophir to be the ifland of Hifpaniola, and the continents of Peru and Mexico. He was feconded in his opinion by Poftel, Goropius, Arias Montano, Antonio Poffevino, Rodrigo Yepes, Bofius, Manuel de Sa, and other authors, reported by Pineda, in his treatife Dc rebus Solomonis ; which makes Father Martin del Rio, of the company of Jesus, fay, that this opinion is not without good grounds ; but he who defends it moft vigoroufly, is Father Gregory Garcia, of the order of St. Pominick, in his book De Indorum Occidentalium Origine, where he ftrives mightily to clear this opinion from all objeftions and oppofition. The things faid by thefe authors are not of fmall weight, though thofe who would make an inference from the word Peru's having a nearnefs to Pharvim, which is ufed by the Septuagint in 2 Chron. iii. where, fpeaking of the gold wdth which Solomon adorned his temple, they fay, that it was of gold of Pharvim, which in the vulgate is tranflated Auru?n probatijfimwn, or moft pure gold, have againft them a powerful adverfary, to wit, Garcilaflb de la Vega, who affirms, that the name Peru is not the name of the land, but that the Spaniards, endeavouring to inform themfelves of the country, took an Indian, whofe name was Beru ; and that alking him what country they were in, and he imagining they afked him his name, he anfwei;ed Beru ; and the Spaniards thought he had faid Peru, and that that was the name of the country, which ever after was called fo. ^ That which", in my opinion, confirnis moft the belief of Ophir, is, that which Solomon fays of himfelf in the book of Wifdpm, that he " knew the difpofition of the earth ; " with which it feems thaj ignorante was s 2 incompatible j <,*^' 132 ovalle's historical relation of chile. incompatible ; and that he could not but be informed of that great and principal part of the world ; fo that we may conclude he knew how to fend his fleets thither, and bring home the riches of thofe parts ; and this may be more probable, if we confider the great defire he had of gathering together all the precious things from feveral parts of the earth, and the purefl gold, for the ornament of the temple and houfe of God ; for the gold of Valdivia and Carabay being the purefl; in the world, and the precious woods of odours that are in thofe kingdoms, and Paraguay and Brafil, the fineft, it appears hard he fliould not ufe all diligence to have them, they making fo much to his end, which was to gather treafure and precious things. That he could do it, there feems no reafon to doubt, fince we know he had a great and powerful fleet ; and if this fleet fpent always three years from the time of its fetting out in the Red-Sea, to the time of its return, as the interpreters of the fcripture all fay, in what could they fpend fo much time, but in going to the utmofl; bounds of the eaft and wefl: ? and, it is poflible, went round the world, as the fliip Vidory did fmce, in the fame time ; in which the great Captain Magellan difcovered and pafled the ftraights of his name j and fmce we know that the fleets of the Catholic kings do, in our days, penetrate to the utmofl parts of the eafl: and weft in lefs than a year's time, why could not the fame be done by thofe of fo powerful and fo wife a king as Solomon, who may be fuppofed to have underftood himfelf, and inftrudled his cap- tains and pilots in the art of navigation ? neither is it improbable, but he might know the ufe of the loadftone, and the fea-compafs, as fome authors do affirm he did. This is yet more confirmed by what we have obferved already about the knowledge and conjeftures which the antients had of this new world, of which he likewife could not be ignorant, but rather have a more particular infight into them, being himfelf fo perfefl: in the fciences of cofmography and geography, as well as hydrography : all which he had by infufion from God Almighty, that he might fee into the errors of thofe who believed there were no antipodes, nor that the torrid zone could be inha- bited, denying the roundnefs of the earth, and other fuch miftakes. Laftly, we know, that his fleets came to Syria, Phoenicia, Africa, and Europa ; and to come to thofe coafts, it is certain, that if they fet out at the Red-Sea, it was neceflary for them to fail fouthward to double the cape of Good Hope, and then north, and pafs the equinoctial line a fecond time, as the Portuguefe do now in their voyages from India to Portugal. This being fuppofed, and that Solomon had the knowledge of America, it is probable he was not unacquainted with the communication of the North and South-Seas, by the ftraights of Magellan and St. Vincent ; for Solomon being fo powerful, both by fea and land ; and fo well inftrufted in all things, it is probable he caufed thofe fliores to be fearched, to find the communication of both feas, as it was fmce done by men much inferior to him in every thing, which were Magellan, and Jacob le Maire ; or, it might be difcovered by fome fliips driven by ftorms into thofe parts, as fome fay it befel the firft difcoverers of America. This once fuppofed, thofe who underftand any thing of navigation, and the art of the fea, cannot but know how much more eafily a fleet, being placed at the Cape of Good Hope in thirty-fix, may fail fouth to the fifty-fourth degree, where the ftraights of Magellan lie, than to fail to the north above feventy-two degrees, which it muft do from the Cape to Europe : From whence may be inferred what I fay, that if it was true that his fleet came to Africa and Europe, and entered the Mediterranean fea, it was much eafier to go to Chile and Peru ; for from the ftraights it might run before the wind all along that coaft ; and having taken in the gold, precious woods, filver, and other commodities, it might return by the fame ftraights, as Pedro Sarmiento, and ovalle's historical relation of chile. 133 and others, have done to the North-Sea, and fo to the Cape of Good Hope and the Red-Sea ; or, the fleet bemg in the South-Sea, might fail weft to the Philippine iflands ; and from thence coafting along thofe parts we call the Ealt-Indies, it might take in all the eaftern commodities ; and fo having gone round the world, return laden vwth all the riches of eaft and weft, with pearls, diamonds, rubies, and other fine ftones, as alfo mufk, amber, ivory, and other valuable eaftern commodities ; and from the weft, with gold, filver, odoriferous woods, pearls, emeralds, fine dyes, rich and fine wools, amber, and other riches, which were wanting to make up the opulency of Solomon. Neither ought this to. be thought impradicable, fmce it is made out already in thefe books, how eafy the navigation would be from Chile to the Philippine iflands in two or three months : the conveniences of which navigation have been fet out in the fourth chapter of the fecond book ; and we do know how the fliip Viftory did return that way, and fo have many others fince ; by all which the poflibility of Solomon's naviga- tion is made out, and that within the compafs of the three years, in which they ufed to return to their port in the Red-Sea ; and if it did not do this, it can hardly be imagined how it could employ fuch a fpace of time. For thefe, and many more reafons of this nature, our moft learned Pineda retrafls the contrary opinion, which he had publiflied in his commentaries on Job ; becaufe, when he writ them, he had not fo well examined the grounds of the laft opinion, nor weighed all the authority and ftrength of conjeftures that attend it ; and, indeed, fo far every prudent man would go, as not to defpife and contemn an opinion of which he beUeved the contrary, if it were maintained with probability, and by perfons wor- thy to be hearkened to. Though, to fay truth, if I muft fpeak what I think, that one reafon which 1 gave above againft the Romans having had knowledge of thofe parts, fwhich is, that it appears incredible, that having once made the difcovery, and enjoyed thofe mines, not only the communication with them, but the very memory of them fliould be loft,) feems, in my opinion, to be as ftrong an argument againft Solomon's fleet ; for if that did once overcome all the difficulties of that navigation, what caufe could interrupt that commerce in fuch a manner, as that the total remem- brance of it fliould be aboliflied ? It is true, that as to the Jews, they were a people who did not care to live in foreign parts, nor fettle among other nations, nor inhabit the fea-coafts ; for God Almighty was unwilling, that, by the communication with the Gentiles, they fliould contraft any of their cuftoms ; and therefore we do not know, that of all the race of their kings, any more than three went about any fuch thing, which were Solomon who corapaflTed it, and Jofophat and Ochofias, whofe under- takings had no fuccefs. By which it may be infered, that when Solomon died, and the temple was finiftied, this navigation was neglefted, till at laft it was quite forgot ; befides, that it appears from the Chronicles, and other places of fcripture, that in thofe times lilver and gold were but little valued, the covetoufnefs of mankind not being arrived to the height it is at now-a-days : they did not think it worth leaving their houfes to endure labour in the fearch of them, and run all thofe hazards which the voyagers to thofe parts do undergo. This therefore might take off the edge and defire which we fee in the Europeans, of continuing thofe voyages ; neither would they dcfire to fettle in thofe parts ; or if they did, the memory of them might be loft. See Padre Pineda, particularly in the fifth fection of the fixteenth chapter, where he anfwers the arguments ot the negative opinion ; to which he gives very handfome folutions ; and in particular, to thofe who fay, that Solomon's fleet could bring nothing but gold and filver, as if this were nothing, or like ballaft ; and that this were not motive enough for him to fend his fleets, for a thing of which it appears he made fuch ufe, both for the temple and his own palaces ; fo that it does not feem 154 ovalle's historical relation of chile. feem poffible he could have it all from the eaft, but muft have had recourfe to the weft, where there was fuch a mafs of it, as is made out by what we have faid of the mines of Chile, and thofe of the Inga, with thofe trees, fruits, and plants of maffy gold, and ftatues of the fame metal in his gardens ; befides what they call Guafcas, where to this day they keep concealed a raft ftore of thofe riches gathered together for the liberty of the Inga, when the Spaniards had him prifoner ; all which may be feen in what has been faid already in feveral chapters. CHAP. IV. — Of the Difcovery of America ; and by what Means it was performed. AMONG the hidden and wonderful fecrets of nature, we may reckon the fmgular virtue of the loadftone, which has produced fuch wonderful effects, as they feem more the object of our eyes than of our faith, as men ; for who, if they did not fee it, could believe the experiments made every day, which furpafs all imagination I See the curious and elaborate treatife of Father Athanafms Kirker, of our company, De arte jnagnetica ; for there the moft afpiring mind after curiofities will find all he can wilh about this matter, as well what is ancient, as what is modern, the whole treated with fo much erudition and clearnefs, that the ftudy of it is not lefs delightful than profitable. The fame fubje£t is alfo treated of excellently by Father Nicholas Cabeo, of our company, in his book of Magnetical Philofophy. Among all the virtues of this rare ftone, I think that its quality of taking up iron is not fo admirable as that which it has had of drawing gold and filver to Europe from India ; the mafs of which has been fo great, that lome curious perfons having made a calculation in this matter, which they underftood very well, and reckoning the millions brought by the galleons and flotas, from the difcovery of the Indies to their time ; and having alfo computed the diftance between Europe and thofe parts, have found that there might have been made, from the one to the other, of bars of filver, a bridge of a yard and a half wide ; fo that if all that metal could be found now-a-days in any one place, it would make a moun- tain like that of Potofi, from which the greateft quantity has been fetched ; and for that reafon it appears hollow, and bored through in fo many places. We may therefore fay of the loadftone, that gold has given it a virtue like that of faith, to tranfport mountains, not only from one place to another, but from one world to another, through thofe immenfe feas which feparate them. Who the firft man was that applied this virtue to facilitate navigation, it is hard to prove by authors ; for though we know that this ftone was known to the Jews, and to the Egyptians, yet who firft made ufe of the fea-needle and compafs, is very hard to find out. Some fay it came from China to Europe : others, that it was found by the inhabitants of the Cape of Good Hope ; and that Vafco de Gama, met with fome of their veflels, when he made the difcovery of the Cape, who ufed this inftrumcnt : others give the glory of it to the Spaniards and Portuguefe ; others to a man of the kingdom of Naples, called John Goyas, of the city of Amalfi, who was rather the man that perfected this invention, being himfelf an experienced feamen. But let every one have his opinion, it is not my bufinefs to decide ; 1 only fay, that to this admirable virtue of the loadftone we owe the dif- covery of America : for though fome authors fay, that Solomon's fleet failed by the obfervation of the ftars, the winds, the flight of birds, and other figns, with which they fupplied the want of this ufeful invention, not then known according to the common opinion^ (though the contrary is not altogether improbable,) yet it muft be ovalle's historical relation of chile. 135 be owned that the ufe of this fea-needle has been the thing that has facilitated the navigation, fo as the firft difcoverers, trufling to this, durfl: venture into vail feas, and pafs the gulph which leads to that remote and unknown world, fo as to land in it ; which was a performance worthy of inimortal memory to the man who undertook and executed it. This man was the moft famous Captain Don Chriftopher Columbus, a Genoefe, whom the -Spaniards in their language call Colon, who, though he were not, as he was, nobly defcended, might have given by himfelf nobility and fame to his defcen- dants, and to his noble and illuftrious country ; for if this commonwealth had had only this fon, it might draw fame enough from him alone, fmce his generous and bold mind was capable of overcoming all the difficulties which he met with in the projed and execution of this enterprize, the more to be efteemed by the great advantages procured by it to both worlds ; to this, by that vaft increafe of riches, of which a great deal is confecrated upon the altars in churches, befides what is employed in the furniture of princes and great men : and to the other world, the benefit of the light of the gofpel, by which it is fo much more polifhed and meliorated in all fenfes. Neither does that which Garcilaflb de la Vega, and others, do relate, any ways affecl the glory of this great man, when they fay, that he undertook this defign upon the knowledge communicated to him by a man whom he entertained, and who died in his houfe as his gueft ; for we muft own that his chief praife does not come from what he knew of this new world before he undertook to find and conquer it, but from his generous mind and conftancy in purfuing his enterprize ; and this is all his own, which puts juftly the laurels upon his head, and makes his memory immortal in fpite of time and envy, though one would think no body fhould have any for the common benefactor of two worlds. That which thefe authors relate about this hiftory is, that a pilot, an inhabitant and native of the tovni of Guelva, in the county of Niebla, in Andalufia, called Alonfo Sanches de Hualva, or as others fay, Buxula, ufed to trade with a fmall veflel to the Canaries ; and that one time, in his return to Spain, he met with a mighty ftrong Levant, which was fo powerful, that in twenty days he found himfelf in one of the illands of the Weft Indies, one of thofe which we call the iflands of Barlovento, or the Windward Iflands, and it is judged it was Hifpaniola ; from whence, fearing to perilh for want of provifion, he returned to the ifland of Madeira, having endured fo much, that almoft all his company died, and himfelf came in fuch a condition, that though Columbus, who loved fea-faring men, and for that reafon had chofen that ifland to live in, received hini into his houfe, and took great care of him, yet he died ; but before he died, being willing to make fome return for the kindnefs received, he called Columbus to him, and left him, as an inheritance, the journal he had made, with the rhumbs of wind both going and coming, and all other his obferva- tions in the voyage, and about the place where he landed. This is thus related by Garcilaflb de la Vega, and Father Jofeph d'Acofta, who fays, he does not know the name of this pilot who left this legacy to Columbus : and this he attributes to the particular providence of God, who would not have the honour of this difcovery be owing to any human induftry, but immediately and intirely to the Divine Majefty, to whofe difpofition we ought to attribute fo much as appears con- tingent and calual in this fliip's mifcarriage, from its courfe, and all the other accidents attending that ftorm, till the pilot was brought to die in the houfe of him whom God had chofen for a fecond caufe and chief inftrument of this enterprize ; who being of himfelf a great philofopher and cofmographer, compared thefe notions which he had, from 136 ovalle's historical relation of chile. from his dying gueft, with his own fpeculations which he had long had upon the fame fubjeft ; and this made him refolve to undertake what he afterwards accomplifhed. In order to this he began to confider of thofe who were likelieft to aifift him ; and firft of all he offered it to his own country, who took it for a dream ; after this, to the Kings of Portugal, France, and England: and at laft he addreffed this rich offer to Their Catholick Majefties, for whom it was defigned from the beginning, by Him who had refolved in his providence to amplify their monarchy by the addition of fo many rich and powerful kingdoms, as they have acquired in this new world. Ferdinand and Ifabella, who are worthy of immortal glory, having examined the grounds Columbuswent upon, and the honour that might be done to the crofs of Chrifl, and to the preaching of his gofpel, if this enterprize ihould take effeft, having ferioufly confidered of it for eight years together, they commanded all neceffary provifions to be made, without fparing any charge, or minding the contingency of a defign fo new, fo difficult, and fo much without example. CHAP. V. — Don Chrijiopher Colutnbus fails from Spain in Search of the New World. IN the year of the birth of our Saviour 1492, upon the third of Auguft, about half an hour before fun-rife, (the happieft day that ever fhined upon our antipodes, as being the beginning of their greateft felicities,) Don Chriftopher Columbus, the moft famous Genoefe that ever was, failed from Spain, with the title which he had received from Ferdinand and Ifabella, of admiral of the Seas of all thofe countries he fhould difcover and conquer ; fo leaving behind him the fimous Herculean flraights, as dif- daining their Non-plus-ultra, and laughing at their pillars, he launched into the vaft ocean, and begun his navigation with no lefs confidence than admiration of thofe who faw him leave the fliore and fteer a courfe never before attempted, by new rhumbs of winds. Having touched at the ifland of Gran Canaria, he again failed from thence the firft of September, with ninety in company and provifions for a year. After fome days of navigation he began to find himfelf near the tropick of Cancer, and under the torrid zone ; whereupon his men who had been bred in the temperate climates of Europe, being impatient of heats, which they never before had experienced, and wearied with feeing nothing but a vaft ocean without land, began to enter into diftrufl of difcovering any. At firft they murmured only between their teeth ; but at laft, fpeaking out boldly, they came to their Captain Columbus, and endeavoured by all means to diffuade him from purfuing his dil'covery, as vain and without hopes of fuccefs ; and that it would be much better to return back to Spain ; but he with a generous mind being deaf to all their perfuafions, purfued his voyage with conftancy. His men perceiving ftill how he went further from Spain, and that they had almoft worn out their eyes with looking out from the top-maft head of the fhip, without finding any appearance of land, renewed their inftances and reafons ; and that the more earnertly, by how much they perceived every day the confumption of their water and provifions ; calling now that temerity, which before they faid might be conftancy : for they alledged that the time was increafed, their provifions leffened, the winds fcarce, and calms to be feared ; no land in view, its diftance not to be knowTi nor gueifed at ; that the danger was certain, and no avoiding to perifti, if they ftaid any longer ; therefore, faid they, let us fecure our lives, except we intend to be a fable and laughing- ftock to all mankind, and looked upon as our own murderers. 9 To OV^4.LLE's HISTORICAL RELATION OF CHILE. m To fay truth, it cannot be denied but this was an urgent danger, and greater per- haps than can be imagined by thofe who never were in the Ulce trials ; for when no lefs than Hfe is at flake, all dangers appear great, and particularly at fea : befides, theie allegations were of themfelves of great confideration, and capable of Ihaking the greatelt conftancy and valour ; yet the courage of the great Columbus was fuch, and fo fingular his prudence, that fometimes diffembling, and fometimes taking no notice of what he heard, but talking to this man and the .other in private, and then comforting them all up in general, and giving them fome account of his well-grounded fpeculations, he fo fed them with hopes and expedations, (he himfelf (hewing no diftruil of his fuccefs,) that he brought at lafl his projefl: to a happy ifiue. They were following their voyage thus, through all the inconveniencies of heat, ready to ftifie them, when on a fudden a voice was heard crying. Land, Land : they all flew to the prow and fides of the (hip, and fixed their eyes on the horizon like fo many Argus's, to find out the land which feemed to appear like a cloud upon the fea. The defire of getting to it made fome doubt, if ft were land or clouds ; but others were more confident : fome afTure it to be low land ; others think they fee rocks, and a large extended fliore ; and all was but guefs, occafioned by the great diflance they were at fea from any land ; for in truth it was not land but clouds. And this was an invention of Columbus, their admiral, who feeing them almofl ready to mutiny, made ufe of this artifice to prevent the ill effefts of their defpair, caufing this voice to be heard to give them a fhort joy, and amufe them. This fucceeded well for that time : he fleered his courfe towards this pretended land till night ; and when they were afleep he fet his prow to the wefl, in fearch of the true land : but in the morning when it was day, feeing thofe clouds, which they took for land, vanifhed as it often happens in long navigations, they began to afflifl: themfelves anew, and remonftrate to the admiral boldly to his face, which I do not wonder at ; for befides the danger of perifhing with hunger, they found them- felves in a climate fo fcorching and fiery, than in the third voyage that the admiral made, they being becalmed eight days, about the fame place, were afraid the fun would have fet fire to their fhips ; for all his cafks flew under decks, the hoops fmoaking as if they had been fet on fire, and the wheat was all in a ferment ; and the fait flefli was, as it were, boiled again, and flunk fo, that, to avoid infeftion, they were forced to throw it overboard. The admiral was thus purfuing his voyage, in which patience was his moll neceffary habit, to endure the terrible perfecution of his own people ; when on the nth day of Oftober of the fame year, it pleafed God to crown all his invincible fufferings, and the confidence he had in him, firfl, by manifefl figns of land, which in fuch occafions do generally put a flop to all complaints and affliftions, and are the beginning of joy and content, which is followed with forgetting all pafl fufferings. The firfl thing they faw was the bough of a tree new cut, with its fruit on it, which though a kind of thorn, was a branch of olive to the inhabitants of this new ark; another had feen green fifh, and fome pieces of wood floating ; all which were clear marks of land not far off, as to the navigators from India are the quantity of fea weeds which meet them about ten leagues from the coafl of Spain. The joys which failors and palTengers fliew generally at the figns of land, the capers they cut, and embraces they make each other, with their congratulations to the pilot, their thanks to heaven, nay, the tears they fhed, and devout prayers they make to God and the Virgin Mary, i.n acknowledgment of their proteflion ; all thefe are you XIV. T not 138 ovalle's historical relation of chile. not fo much matter for my pen, as for fight and fenfe. All this happened to the admiral's company, which not only forgot their fufterings, and the hatred they bore to the author of them, bTit they run and threw themfelves at his feet, as admiring and congratulating his conftancy, and begging his pardon for fo many hard thoughts, and as hard words, they had entertained, and let fly againft him : he received them all with embraces and marks of benignity, affuring them that by the end of that day they fhould be within fight of land, and h:iving faid this, he went upon the highefl part of the Ihip's ftern, as being defirous to be the firft, that fliould give them the good news of difcovering land. There was a rent of ten thoufand Maravedies a year for the firft difcoverer, which made them all look out with great attention ; feme on one fide, and fome on the other fide of the (hip, fixing their eyes where they thought it was moll probable to find land ; but it was about two hours before midnight, when Admiral Columbus difcovered a light, and calling to two officers, fhewed them ; and prefently he perceived that the light changed place, for it \¥as a light carried from one houfe to another, as was known afterwards when they landed : they failed on towards that light, and about two hours after midnight they difcovered land, which was at the fame time made by the other fhips in company, whereupon there were many claims for the Albricias ; but at laft they agreed that the Albricias belonged to the admiral, becaufe he firft difcovered the light : this was confirmed by Ferdinand and Ifabella, King and Queen of Spain, and fettled upon the fhambles of Seville, as the beft fund for the admiral. Herrera, the chronologift, makes his reflections upon this light, and moralizes upon it, that it fignified the fpiritual light, which thofe nations wanted, and which was now brought to them from Europe by thefe difcoverers ; as a proof likewife of the piety of the catholic Kings, who having made war upon the Moors for three hundred and twenty years, had hardly finiflied it ; but they put their fhoulders to this new con- queft, to fpread by their means the glory of the gofpel, and make the voice of it to be heard to the utmoft limits of the earth, making out by this manifeft proof, how firm fupports they were to the faith, fince they were conftantly employed in propagating of it. Thus far Herrera : to which I may add, that the light Columbus faw in the middle of the night, was the tacit working of reafon, which being buried in profound errors, did yet throw out fome fparks from under thofe afhes, and cry to heaven for the enlivening fpirit to ddiver it, and by the means of Chrift revive it, fo as to enlighten that gentilifin, fo long overwhelmed in darknefs, and for fo many ages part buried, as it were, in the fliadow of death. Thus it was ; and as foon as day broke they landed : the admiral carried with him the royal ftandard fpread, the other captains having in theirs the banners of this con- queft, which were prepared, and had in them a green crofs crowned, and round about the names of Ferdinando and Ifabella, to fignify the hopes that thofe princes had entertained to make fubjeft, and lay at the feet of the crucified Jelus, the crowns and fceptres of thofe powerful monarchs of that new world ; they themfelves having firft fubmitted their own, that there might be no crown, command, nor lordftiip, but that of the exaltation of the crofs. To this end, as foon as the admiral landed, kneeling down with all his company, he kifled it once, and twice ; and lifting up his eyes to heaven, all in tears, he adored our Lord God of all things, who had brought him thither, thanking him for his favour, and doing homage to him in the name of thofe 'people, who were to be brought to his knowledge ; in fjgn of all which, and the pofleffion he then took, he called that I o - ifland ovalle's historical relation of chile. >39 fland Saint Salvador : he raifed alfo a mofl beautiful crofs, which was a declaring war to. hell, to make it renounce the pofleffion of that land, which for fo many ages it had tyrannized over. The admiral being rofe up, they all approached, and not only embraced him, but carried him upon their fhoulders in triumph, as having performed the greateft work that ever man attempted, or brought to pafs. Immediately after this, the admiral, in prefence of a notary, took poffefTion of that land in the name of Their Catholic Ma- jefties, and caufed himfelf to be owned as viceroy, and as fuch they began to own him, and obey him in all things. This ifland, which we fhall call Saint Salvador, was about fifteen leagues in length, very woody, and having good water, with a lake of frefh water in the middle of it, and well inhabited by the Indians, who called it in their tongue Guanaani ; and it is one of thofe which fince have been called the Lucaicks. It is nine hundred and fifty leagues from the Canaries. CHAP. VI. WHEN the Indians faw fuch great bulks in the fea, with great fails,, and the whole unlike their canoes, and they were drawn near the ihore, they remained aftonilhed and befide themfelves, becaufe, though by their motion they gueffed them to be living things, yet for their bignefs they took them for fome ftrange fea-monflers, never feen before on thofe coafts. The (hips came to an anchor clofe by the fhore, and the admiration of the Indians increafed ftillfo much the more, feeing white men come out of them with beards and cloaths ; yet they did not run away, but drew near without fear, the rather when they faw that the Spaniards began to prefent them with bells, needles, and other things of Europe, which pleafed them extremely, as being new to them : in return they gave the Spaniards gold, provifions, and other things of their country : they came fome in their canoes, and fome fwimming to the fhips, where it was wonder- ful to fee how they valued every thing, even to the bits of glazed difhes, or broken earthen ware, that lay about the fhips, which they gathered up as jewels which they had never feen. And to fay truth, mofl things borrow their value from their rarity ; and for this reafon they had as little value for gold and pearls, which were things very common among them, they exchanging whole firings of pearls, and fome of them as big as peafe and fmall nuts, for needles and bells, as happened in the iflands of the Margarita ; fo great is the difference in the ellimation of things common, or rare ones. The admiral having here got an account of fome other iflands, went out to difcover them ; and the fecond he found he named Santa Maria de la Conception, dedicating it to the queen of heaven : the third he called Fernandina, of the King Don Fernando : the fQurth he named Ifabella, in confideration of his miflrefs Queen Ifabella. Of all thefe he took poffefTion in the name of Their Majeflies, by fetting up their royal ftandard before a publick notary, with the fame folemnity and ceremonies obferved in the taking poffeffion of the firfi ifland. On a Saturday, the 29th of October, they difcovered the famous ifland of Cuba, where the Havana is : there the Indians, frighted to fee the Spaniards, whom they thought defcended from heaven, went to them kifTmg their hands and feet. The admiral's lail difcovery was of the ifland called Hifpaniola, where he met with a great deal of gold, and fome birds and fifhes, like thofe of Caflile. Here the Cacique T 2 Gua. 14° OVALLE's historical relation Of CHILE. Guacanagari received him with much humanity ; and in his land he made the firfl colony, or fettlement of Spaniards, which he named the city of the Nativity. The Spaniards generally were received in thefe and other the Barlovento Iflands, and on the coafts of Terra Firma, with much love and kindnefs, very few of the Indians offering to refifl: them. On the contrary, they all were pleafed with their coming upon their lands, furnifliing them with all that the country afforded, and prefenting them with gold, pearls, parrots; contenting themfelves with a return of averyfmall value. Of the European things, thofe they feemed moft to mind, were needles ; and at firft they could not imagine what they were good for ; but being told they were to few, they anfwered they had nothing to ftw ; but yet they kept them, becaufe they had never feen any thing of iron or fteel. They were much furprized at the ufe of fwords, and parti- cularly when they experienced their Iharpneis; for at firll they ufed to take hold of them by the edge with great fimplicity. The admiral, as viceroy of thofe new kingdoms, began to govern, as he difcovered them ; and that he might regulate them the better, by confulting Their Majefties in his doubts and difBcuhies, he made two voyages backwards and forwards to Spain, ftill tnaking in his returns difcovery of fome new iflands, and amplifying the monarchy, as hiftorians do relate at large, to whom I refer myfelf, not to engage in matters which are far fi-om my fubjeft ; but I cannot but make fome retleftion upon what happened to this great man. AVho would not have thought, confidering the happinefs with wliich he had executed all that he had defigned, in the moil difllcult fubjtft in the world, that he was eternizing his felicity, and putting fortune under his feet ? But that no one may flrive to do it, but that all may know how conftant is her volubility, and how perpetual the motion of her wheel, and that there is no human power, nor liar, can fix it, I will relate here briefly what befel him. Let him who governs be undeceived once for all, and know, that to fit upon a throne, and take poiiefTion of power, is to be a mark for the cenfure of the good and bad to aim at ; it is jufl putting himfelf into the hands of anatomifts, to be taken in pieces, and examined to the very bones, and very often envy oppreffes innocence by feigned accufations : this is not the place to examine that of the admiral ; 1 only know that there were fo many complaints, and fuch appearances of mifdemeanors alleged at court againft him ; as, that he did not advance the converfion of the Indians, but made them work to get gold, defiring more to make them flaves than Chriltians ; and taking no care to maintain them, and fuch other imputations ; as moved Their Catholic Majeflies to fend the commander De Bobadilla to examine the truth of what was alleged, and to do juflice in requifite cafes ; writing at the fame time a kind letter to the admiral, that he fhould let the commander execute their orders. But he exceeding his commiflion, and the intention of Their Majeflies,' took all he informations againfi the admiral and his brothers, and without hearing them, made himfelf be owned for judge and governor, giving rewards, and publifhing that he came to relieve the opprefTed, and to pay their falaries, and put all things in good order. This drew over to him all thofe who had any grudge to the admiral, and mofl of the common fort fided with him ; fo he entered into the houfes of the admiral and his brothers, feized their goods and their papers ; all which he might fafely do, without any refiflance, for the admiral was away : he fent to feize him and his brothers, put- ting irons upon their feet, and fo (hipping them into a veffel, called a Caraval, he fent them away for Spain, to give an account of themfelves. When they came to put irons upon the admiral, there was none fo bold as to do it, out of the refpeft that all had for him ; and if he had not had in his family a rogue of a cook. OVALLE S HISTORICAL RELATION OF CHILE. I4I a Cook, who was villain enough to do it, they had not found any one to execute fo barbai-ous a command. When Columbus faw himfelf put in chains by his own fervant, it is faid, that fhaking his head, he pronounced theie words, full of refentment for his ufage : " Thus the world rewards thofe who ferve it ; this is the recompence that men give to thofe who truft in them. Have the utmofl endeavours of my fervices ended in this ? Have all my dangers and fufferings deferved no more ? Let me be buried with thefe irons, to fhew that God alone knows how to reward and beftow favours, of which he does never repent ; for the world pays in words and promifes, and at lad deceives and lies." Having faid this, the ftHp fet fail ; and as foon as he came to Spain, Their Majefties, when they were informed of the prifon of the admiral, were much concerned ; for by no means had that been their intention. They fent for him to come before them ; but his tears and fighs were fuch, that in a great while he could not fpeak ; at lafl he faid, afTuring Their Majefties of his great zeal for Their royal fervice, which had always been his guide, that if he had failed in any thing, it was not out of malice, nor on purpofe, but becaufe he knew no better. Their Majefties comforted him, and particularly the queen, who favoured him moft j and after fome time, in which the truth of the matter was made out, they ordered, that all that the commander Bobadilla had confifcated of the eftate of the admiral and his brothers, fhould be reftored to them ; as alfo, that the capitulation with them ftaould be obferved, as to their privileges and exemptions. After this, the admiral returned a fourth time to the Indies, in an honourable way ; and employing himfelf in new dif- coveries, he arrived upon the coaft of Terra Firma of America, the fecond of Novem- ber 1502, and coafting along by Cubija, arrived at the port ; which, becaufe it appeared fo good a one, and the country fo beautiful, well cultivated, and full of houfes, that it looked like a garden, he called Puerto Bello, or the Fine Port, having difcovered other iflands in the way, and endured very bad ftorms. At laft, returning back by fome of thofe places which he had difcovered, taking, as it were, his leave of them, and returning to Spain, to order there a better fettlement of aSairs, he died at Valla- dolid, where the court was, making a very Chriftian end, and giving great figns of his predeftination. CHAP. VII. — After the Death of Columbus, the CaJlUians furfue the Dfcovery and Co)ique/i of the New World. AMONG thofe who accompanied the admiral in his firft difcovery, there was one Vincent Yanes Pinzon, who being a rich man, fet out four veffels at his own charge. He, at his return to Spain, fet fail from the fame .port of Balos upon new difcoveries : he firft came to the ifland of St. Jago, which is one of the Cape Verd iflands : he fet fail from thence the thirteenth of January in the year 1500, and was the firft who paffed the equino6tial line, by the north fea, and difcovered Cape St. Auguftin, which he called the Cape of Confolation, taking poffefTion of it for the crown of Caftile ; from thence he found the river JMaragnon, which is thirty leagues over, and fome fay more at its entrance, the freftr water running forty leagues into the fea ; then coafting towards Paria, he found another river very large, though not fo broad as Maragnon : they took up frefh water out of it, twenty leagues at fea. He difcovered in all a coaft of fix hundred leagues to Paria, and loft two ftiips in a terrible ftorm that he endured. We 142 OVALLE S HISTORICAL RELATION OF CHILE. We have feen alfo in the laft chapter, that Columbus had difcovered the iflaiid of Cuba, though he could never fail round it, being hindered by the ilorms and ill weather ; fo he died without knowing whether it was an ifland or no, for he judged it to be rather a point of fome continent ; but it is a very large ifland, with many fair ports, and mountains full of precious odoriferous woods of cedar, ebony, and many others ; an4 there are in it feveral cities of Spaniards, and among the reft the ftrong fortrefs of the Havana, which is a Scala or rendezvous for the galleons and flotas, loaded with filver from the Weft-Indies : this is one of the beft fortifications the King of Spain has in all his dominions. But, in my opinion, that which makes this ifland moft valuable, is, the good nature and docility of thofe who are born in it ; which was a product of that foil before ever the Spaniards trod it, as they ftiewed to Columbus, and thofe who came after him, receiving them with all kindnefs and humanity. To further what the Admiral Columbus had begun, God raifed an inftrument in the perfon of Vafco Nunnes de Balboa, one of the firft difcoverers of this new world ; a man of good underftanding, as he ftiewed upon the occafion which I ftiall now relate. He was, with others, upon the difcovery with General Encifco, the governor : they came to a place called Uraba, and as they entered the port, by negligence of the fteerfman, the governor's fliip ftruck upon a fand, and was loft, nothing being faved out of her but the lives of the men, who got into the boats, but naked, and in danger of perifliing for want of provifion. Vafco de Nunnes faid, that he remembered there was not far off a river, the banks of which were inhabited by much people : he guided them thither ; and the thing being found to be as he had faid, he gained great reputa- tion among them all. They came thither, and found the Indians in arms againft the Caftilians, whofe name was already become odious to thofe nations : they made a vow to our lady, to dedicate to her the firft fettlement and church to the honour of her image, under the title of Sanfta Maria la Antigua, or the Ancient St. Mary, which to this day is venerated in Seville ; and to fend her many rich gifts of gold and filver, which one of them, as a pilgrim, ftiould carry in the name of the reft. Being encou- raged by this vow, they fell upon the Indians, and obtained the vifliory. Prefently they made a fettlement, and built a town, dedicated to the virgin, calling it Sanfta Maria cl Antigua of Dairen, becaufe that was the name of that river. After this, to accomplifti their vow, they feni the promifed prefents to the devout image of the virgin. The good opinion of Vafco de Nunnes increafing thus daily, and having cunningly ordered it fo, that Encifco refigned his government, they chofe Vafco Nunnes in his room : at firft with an aflTociate ; but he found means in time to be alone, as it was necef- fary he fhould, in point of command, being to overcome fuch difficulties as were to be met with at every turn : and, indeed, he knew how to make himfelf be both feared and beloved, having a very good fpirit of government. In the new difcoveries he undertook, he came firft to the lands of the Cacique Ponea, and not finding him at home, he deftroyed them : he pafled on to the lands of the Cacique Careta, who not caring to enter into war, received him peacefully, and treated him as a friend. This Cacique Careta had a kinfman, who was a lord, that lived further in the country, and his name was Suran ; who perfuaded another neighbouring prince, called Coniagre, to make a friendfliip with the Caftilians : this prince had a very fine palace, which afto- niftied them ; and particularly when they faw, in a kind oT chapel or oratory, fome dead bodies lying, covered with rich mantles, and many jewels of gold imd pearls ; and being alked, whofe bodies thefe were, they anfwered, of their predeceffor ; and that, to preferve them from corruption, they had dried thern with fire. The king carefTed OVALLE S HISTORICAL RELATION OF CHILE. J43 carefled the Caftilians, and gave them great prefents : he had feven fons, and one of them, more liberal, gave the Spaniards a prefent of near four thoufand pefos of fine gold, and fome pieces of rare workmanfhip : they weighed it, and taking the King's fifths, they began to divide the remainder. In the divifion, two foldiers fell out about their (hare : the Cacique's fon, who had made the prefent, hearing the noife, could not bear it, but coming to them, ftruck the balance where the gold was weighing, and ' threw it all upon the ground, faying, " Is it poffible you fhould value fo much a thing that fo little deferves your efteem ? and that you fhould leave the repofe of your houfes, and pafs fo many feas, expofed to fuch dangers, to trouble thofe who live quiet in their own country ? Have fome fhame, Chriitians, and do not value thefe things : but if you are refolved to fearch gold, I will fhew you a country where you may fatisfy your- felves." And, pointing with his finger to the fouth, he told them they fliould fee there another fea, when they had palfed over certain high mountains, where they fhould fee other people, who could go with fails and oars as they did ; and that paffmg that fea, they fhould meet with vaft quantities of gold, whereof the natives made all their utenfils ; and that he would be their guide, and conduct them with his father's vaffals j but that it would be requifite they fhould be more in number, becaufe they were power- ful kings, who could hinder their paffage : giving them by this the firft notice of Peru and its riches. This was the firft knowledge and light which the Spaniards got of the South-Sea, and of the gold and riches of its coafts, which gave them all great joy ; fo that they were impatient to fee the hour of breaking through all obflacles, to fee that fea never before heard of, and enjoy the riches of it. Vafco Nunnes immediately difpofed all things, and went out of Dairen, in the beginning of September in the year 1513, and going along the fea-fide, to the habitation of the friendly Cacique Careta, he went to- wards the mountains by the lands of the Cacique Ponea ; who, though at firft he en- deavoured to oppofe their paffage, yet being advifed by the Indians of Careta, who accompanied the Caftilians, he prefented them with gold and provifions, and gave them guides ; they, in return, giving him looking-glasses, needles, knives, and other baubles, which they valued very much. Then they began to mount the mountain through the country of a Cacique called Quareca, who appeared in arms, and attacked the Spaniards : he had a long robe of cotton, but all his men were naked. They began to fkirmifh, and threaten, by their attions, to hinder the paffage ; but no fooner did they hear the noife, and feel the effects of the mufkets, and find fome to fall, but they turned their backs, flying like a herd of deer, frighted to fee the fire, and hear the found of the vollies, which appeared thunder to them, and thought the Spaniards had thunderbolts at their command ; fo they left the paffage free for them. The Indians of Careta had faid, that from their country to the top of the higheft mountain, there was the time of fix funs ; for by that they meant fo many days' journey ; but the ways were fo bad, that they employed five and twenty days to get to the top. A little before they were at the higheft, Vafco Nunnes de Balboa caufed a halt to be made, defiring to have the glory of having himfelf been the firft man that ever faw the South-Sea. And fo it was : he goes alone, difcovers that vaft ocean, and the large bays of the South-Sea, called Pacifick ; and upon his knees, \vith tears in his eyes, lifts up his eyes to heaven, giving thanks to the great Creator of all things, for having brought him from fuch remote parts to contemplate that which none of his anceftors had ever feen : he made a fign after this to his companions to come up, and fo they all run in hafte, pufhing one another on ; and when they were on the top, where there is a full profpect of the fea, it is not to be imagined the content they all received in admiring that vaft and 144- OVALLE S HISTORICAL RELATION OF CHILE. and fmooth liquid chrydal, which not being animated, did not on its fide give leaps of joy, nor go out of its bed to the tops of the mountains, to welcome thofe who came to deliver it from the tyrimny the devil exercifed over it, by infefting it with ftorms and tempefts, and infefting the air with the breath of idolatry, which was breathed in all thofe parts, both eaif , weft, north, and fouth. Oh ! if all the creatures of that world could have come one by one to fee the good that was coming to them by means of the Gofpel, which dawned in thofe mountains ; or, if the predeftinated of that new world could have viewed from their cottages, and poor habitations, or rather from the deep night of their errors and fins, the fun that was beginning to enlighten them from that high mountain, and the virtue and efficacy of grace, which then began to appear to reconcile them with God, and the blood of Chrift, which like a great river was falling through thofe precipices, till it (hould bathe the utmoft parts of the earth, and give life to thofe, who, being fallen and covered with the dark fhadow, did not only not hope for life, but not fo much as know it ; how would the children have leaped out of their cradles, who, to go into paradife, expefted nothing but baptifm, as has happened to great numbers, who juft expired when they were made an end of baptizing ; and the old men, who wanted only the knowledge of the Gofpel to fhut their eyes, and being reconciled to God, fly into his glory, how they would open them, and lying upon the ground, fly, at leaft with their fpirit if they could not with their body, to receive the preachers of the Gofpel, who brought peace and a general pardon for their fins ! All the other predeftinated, every one according to his ftate, who have by this means been faved, (which are infinite) how they would melt and cry with joy, to hear this news, which is as welcome to them, as that of the coming of Chrift to the holy fathers in UmbOi who were expecting it with fuch languifliing defires ! CHAP. VlW.—'Vafco Nunnes de Balboa purfues the Difcovery of the South-Sea, and dies, VASCO Nunnes de Balboa, having performed his devotion, and thanked our Lord, with all his companions, for fo great a favour done him, as to bring them to that place, And for the favour he was about to fhew to that new world, by the means of the preachers of the Gofpel, to whom he thus opened a way to publifli it ; he then be- thought himfelf of his fecond obligation, which was to his King ; in conformity to which, he took pofl'eflion, in His Majefty's name, for the crowns of Caftile and Leon, of the place where he was, and of the fea which he difcovered from thence ; cutting for this purpofe many trees, and making great croflts which he fet up, and writ upon them the names of Their Majefties. After this they began to go down from the mountain, marching always prepared for any encounter that they might have with the Caciques in their way ; fo, though the Cacique Chiapes oppofcd them with his people, who were ftout and many, yet oy fet- ting the dogs at them, and beginning to fire their mufliets, they were foon routed. This made the Cacique offer terms of peace, and receive and make much of the Cafti- lians, prefenting them with gold ; and he proved fo good a friend, that he pacified many other Caciques, who were in arms, to hinder the paffage, who likewife made their prefents of gold. From the town of Chiapes, Vafco Nunnes fent out, to difcover the coafts of the South-Sea, the captains Franciico Pizarro, Juan de Efcara, and Alonfo Martin, each to a different place : this !aft found two canoes dry on the fliore, and the fca below them above half a league : he wondered to fee them fo far from the fea; and, as he was 12 confidering ovalle's historical relation of chile. 145 confidering it, he perceived the fea coming very faft in, and did not flay long before it fet the canoes on float : he entered into one of them, and took witnefs that he was the firfl European that had ever been upon that fea. The tides on that coaft ebb and flow every fix hours, fo as great fhips will be left on fliore, the water retiring fo faft, that it gives great admiration when it returns, to fee fo great a fpace covered fo faft, that it appears an inundation. Vafco Nunnes having advice of this, came down alfo to the coaft ; and, going into the fea up to the mid-leg, with a naked fword in his hand, faid, that he took poflTef- fion of it, and all the coafts and bays of it, for the crowns of Caftile and Leon ; and that he was ready with that fword, as often as it ftiould be neceflary, to make good that claim, againft all that fliould oppofe him. The Indians were in great amaze at this new ceremony ; and they were more furprized, when they faw him, againft their advice, and that of the Caciques, venture to crofs the gulph of Pearls, to difcover the riches of it in that commodity ; though it had like to have coft him dear, for he was near perifhing in crofling that arm of the fea. Now let us fee (in order to undeceive thofe who ftiall read this) how little this courage and boldnefs availed this generous conqueror of the new world, and the great things his invincible mind had brought to pafs. All his military prudence and cunning, by which he made himfelf be refpefted by unknown nations, availed him Uttle ; for this fo fortunate a great captain had a tra- gical end : he loft his life in Dairen at his return, finding there the governor Pedrarias, who came to fucceed him. The King, in fending this man, had recommended to him the perfon of Vafco Nunnes de Balboa, and ordered him to made ufe of his council, as of one who had honoured him by his bold undertakings, and to whom, for a reward, he ordered the governments of Panama and Coiba, and the admiralftiip of the South- Sea, which he had difcovered, and on which he had already built four fhips, and got together three hundred men, to go upon the difcovery of Peru. But the faid Pedrarias commanded him on fhore, and there feizing him, caufed him to be beheaded publickly as a traitor. The crier went before him, crying, as is cuftomary, that he was a traitor ; which, when Vafco Nunnes heard, he faid it was a lie, and that no man had ferved the King with more zeal, nor more fidelity than he, nor more defired to extend his mo- narchy ; but all his complaints were like voices in the defart, which were of no force againft envy and emulation, which had prevailed in his enemies, and which can never fail againft thofe who govern. His death was much refented, and appeared very unjuft in Spain, becaufe, indeed, the King loft one of his braveft captains, and one who would have difcovered Peru with more facility, and without all thofe tumults, which fmce happened ; for his prudence, valour, and zeal, were above the ordinary fize. It cannot be denied, but that the fentence may be juftified according to the depofi- tions of witneflTes ; but yet it was a great argument of his innocency, that which he himfelf faid to the governor Pedrarias, which was, that if he had in his heart to make himfelf mafter, and independent, as they accufed him, he would not have obeyed his call as he did, and leave his fhip without any difficulty ; for he had then three hundred men all at his devotion, and four veifels, with which he might have been fafe, and gone upon new difcoveries, if his confcience had accufed him. They add here, that an aftrologer had told him, that that year he fliould fee fomething extraordinary in the heavens, he fhould be in guard againft fome great misfortune that threatened him ; and that if he efcaped from it, he fhould be the moft powerful and happy man in the whole Indies. And that accordingly he did fee this fign, but laughed at it, as thinking him- felf in fo high a ftate. VOL. xrv. V CHAP. 146 OVALLE S HISTORICAL ItELATION OF CHILE. CHAP. I'K-.—'l'he Difcovgry of the South-Sea, its Ports and IJlands, is continued. IT is a common paffion in thofe who govern, either to oppofe the defigns of" their predeceflbrs, or at lead not to execute them by their means, nor by their creatures, that their affiflance may not lelfen the glory, which they pretend by making themfelves the authors of the enterprizes. As we have ah'eady faid, Pedrarias fucceeded Vafco Nunnes de Balboa in the government, juft as he had made the difcovery of the South- Sea ; and, though the King had recommended the perfon of Nunnes to him, yet he could not be brought to grant him leave to follow his difcovery, though the Bilhop of Dairen advifed it very earnellly ; but he had refolved to give this good morfel to a creature of his, called Captain Gafpar Morales ; to whom he added, as companion. Captain Francilco Pizarro, becaufe of the experience he had, having been already em- ployed in the difcovery. 'rhey fet out from Dairen, and got to the South-Sea, and embarking there in canoes, they came to the Ifle of Pearls, which the Indians called I'arargui. Thefe by this time began to endeavour to hinder the Spaniards from fetting in their lands, but they were not able to do it, their forces being fo much inferior to thofe of the Caftilians, who, paffing from one ifland to another, came at laft to the largeft, where was the king of almoll all thofe nations, who took arms againll: the Spaniards, having a brave number of men, and well chofen ; but they not being ufed to fire-arms, they foon yielded and came to compofition : to which they were brought alfo by the fear of a famous dog that was in the Chriftian camp, who. ufed to fall upon them like a lion ; and they hav- ing never feen an animal of that fort, did flee him as a devil, becaufe of the mifchief he did amongft them ; for they being naked, he could faitenany where without danger. The Chiapefes, our friends, prefently interpofed ; and telling the King what dangerous enemies the Spaniards were, and of what importance their friendfliip was, they being invincible, he at laft was prevailed upon to grant them peace. They came to his palace, which was very funiptuous, and, as they judged, better than any they had feen yet. The King received them with marks of friendfhip ; and, as a token of it, caufed a bafket of rulhes full of pearls, which weighed five marks, to be given them ; amongft which, there was one which had but few fellows in the world, (for it weighed fix and twenty carats, and was as big as a fmall walnut,) and another as big as a mufcat-pear, perfeft and oriental, and of a fine colour, weighing ten half fcruples. The firfl came from hand to hand, till it was in the emprefs's, who valued it as it deferved, as is told by Antonio de Herrera and others. They prefented the King, in return, with the ufual prefents of pins and needles, bells, knives, and other baubles of Europe, which the Indians valued much. The Spaniards not being able to forbear laughing, to fee the value they put upon them, the King faid to them, " 'What do you laugh at ?" And having heard what it was, he faid, " We might more juftly laugh at you, for valuing things fo m-uch which are of no ufe in life, and for which you pafs fo many feas. As for thefe knives and hatchets you give us, they are very ulelul inftruments to men." This was not the only return the fving had for his pearls ; for he had the precious pearl of faith by their means : for growing very fond of them, and being by them inltruded, he and all I us family received the Chriftian religion, which was the principal end to which the Caftilians direded all their enterprizes. They made a folemn chriftening ; and the King, to treat his fpiritual fathers, who had engendered him in the Gofpel, carried them to fee the pearl-fiftiing, which was in this manner : The Indians dived to the OVALLE S HISTORICAL RELATION OF CHILE. 1 47 the bottom, having about their necks a bag full of ftones, that they might fink the fafter ; and it ferved them for a ballaft to keep them fteady while they gathered the oyflers, that the water might not buoy them up. The greateft oyfters are about ten fathom deep ; for when they do not go to feed, they keep as low as they can, and flick fo faft to the rocks, , and to one another, that it is very hard to loofen them ; nay, it happens fometimes, that while they fpend too much time rn doing it, their breath fails them, and they are drowned : but, generally fpeaking, they are not in danger, becaufe, as they gather the oyfters, they put them in their bag, and lighten it of the ftones, and before their breath fails, they come up again with their fifti. They open the oyfters, and take out the pearls, which ufe to be many if they are fmall, and few if they are large. They fay, that among thofe they prefented the Caftilians at this time, were feveral of the bignefs of large peafe and hazle-nuts ; with which they returned very well pleafed to have made a difcovery of fo rich a treafure, as well as of the rich one they had given in exchange to the King and his people, by making them Chriftians. CHAP. X. — 0/ the Difcovery of the River of Plata, and the Coafi of Chile, by the Straights of Magellan. ' WE have hitherto gone by the North-Sea to the Terra Firma, and the difcovery of the South-Sea, with intent to follow the difcoveries of this new world to its utmoft bounds, which is the kingdom of Chile, to which all this narrative is direfted. We fhall follow this order by the fame fteps that the firft conquerors went ; biit while they are difpofmg all things for this great enterprife, it vdll not be amifs to leave the South-Sea, and follow thofe who endeavoured to difcover the coafts of Chile by the North-Sea. The firft we ftiall follow is Captain Juan Dias de Solis, who failing from Spain the eighth of Oftober 1 5 1 5, ran along the coafts of Brafil, till he difcovered the famous river of Plata, which was fo named, not from any filver that is found near it, or on its banks, but from fome plates of that metal which the Indians gave the Spaniards ; which filver they had brought from the country about Potofi, with which they had communication by the means of the Tucuman Indians, who are the neareft to that fide to Peru. Solis entered that mighty river, which, if I am not miftaken, is threefcore or feventy leagues over at its firft entrance, and is known at fea by its frefli water, at firft ; till being further in, they can fee the mountains and land that bound it. This river is one of the moft famous in the world, of fweet and excellent water, being obferved to clear the voice and lungs, and is good againft all rheums and defludtions; and all the nations of the Paraguays, who drink this water, have admi- rable voices, fo tunable, that when they fing they appear organs ; and therefore they are all inclined to mufic ; and thofe who come from abroad mend their voices by living there. I know one who was born m Chile, and had naturally a good voice, which he mended extremely by living in Paraguay ; but when he left that country, and came to Tucuman, he loft his improvement, as he himfelf told me. This river has another property, which is, that it petrifies the branches of trees which fall into it. The governor Hernan Darias, born in Paraguay, a gentleman of a fingular talent for government, had in his houfe a whole tree all of ftone which had been taken out of this river. Likewife there are formed naturally of the fand of this river, certain veffels of various figures, which have the property of cooling water. There are alfo certain cocos de terra, which contain ftones in them, which at a certain time are, as it were, ripe, and burft, dicovering amethyfts within them ; they burft open with i great noife. u 2 There 148 OVALLE*S HISTORICAL RELATION OP CHILE. There are alfo bred upon its banks moft beautiful birds of feveral kinds ; and in its ftreams great variety of fifties, very dainty, and in great quantity. The river is navi- gable every where in canoes, but not with the fame canoes, becaufe of the prodigious fall that is in the midft; of it, the whole river precipitating itfelf into a deep gulph, from whence it runs many leagues, till it empties itfelf into the fea. The noife that this fall makes, the foam that it raifes, the whirlpools it caufes, by the rencounter of' its waters, is not to be imagined. The land on both fides this river is very fertile ; on the weft fide, which is the Tucuman fide, correfponding to Buenos Ayres, there are feveral cities, as St. Jago de Eftero Cordoua, St. Michael la Rioga, and Efteco Juzuy and Salta, which border upon Peru : thefe cities are not very populous, becaufe they are in the midft of the land, and far from commerce with both feas ; but they do increafe very much, particularly Cordoua, which, amongft other properties, has that of producing rare wits in the univerfity governed by the Jefuits, who may match their profelTors and fcholars with thofe of any other part, as I myfelf have experienced. There are likewife in this diftrift many houfes and families of men of quality and antient nobility. Higher up the river to the weft, are alfo the cities of Affumption, Santa Fee de las Corrientes del Guayta, and others. The city of the Affumption is the chief, and was peopled by gentlemen that came firft to the Indies, and is fince much increafed in people, but not in riches ; becaufe it being fo far within the land, cannot have fufficient vent for its commodities, which are chiefly fugar, and preferved fruits ; among the reft they are famous for a dried fweet-meat, called Ladrillos, which are flices of cetron, done up in fugar, in the form of a tile ; but the beft fweet-meat they have they will give in great abundance for an apple, or any European fruit. In all this tra£t of land there are three governments, which are alfo biftioprics, to wit, Paraguay, Rio de la Plata, and Tucuman. Higher yet on the eaft fide are many heathen nations, which have others that anfwer them on the weft ; and among thefe are diftributed thofe famous miffions which our fathers of the fociety of Jefus have founded. I am forry I am infenfibly engaged in this matter ; and I muft own I have men- tioned that which I cannot well explain. This is not a place for panegyrics, nor does the thread of my hiftory admit of fuch large digreffions ; yet I cannot but ftop a little, and give fome confideration to that we may call miracles of grace, which are per- formed in thofe defarts, of which I myfelf have been an eye-witnefs, having lived fome time in that holy province, to which I owe all that I am. But who can explain what thofe apoftolical men deferve in the fight of God, who feem to have nothing of man but what is neceffary to make their lives more admirable, which they lead like angels in human bodies. Who would not wonder to fee in thofe mountains and Iblitudes men ill fed, worfe lodged, naked, painful, and in anguifli for the fouls of others, when they might fave their own with lefs trouble, enjoying the good morfels and merry days which, without fin, and fometimes meritorioufly, they might have in their own country among their friends, and in the beft of Europe ? Who can but admire to fee fo many youths banifli themfelves, and, renouncing all preferment, refolve to pafs all their lives like hermits, for the love of God, and zeal of the falvation of fouls ? Is this a work of nature ? and can human force arrive to this of itfelf ? Let us go out from this confi- deration, left it be like a loadftone to draw us in further ; and yet let me fly as far as I will, I cannot hinder my heart from being with them, and defiring to end my days in this employment. They who defire to fee the fruit of thefe mifllons of our company, the numbers of the gentiles which they have brought from folitudes to live in cities, the ovalle's historical relation ov chile. 149 the great progrefs of the faith, and the numbers of martyrs they have confecrated to God, let him read the book made of all this by that apoftolical man Antonio Ruiz de Montoya ; and then he will be extremely edified, and admire the work, as well as the author. And fo I return to the thread of my hiftory. Juan de Solis being landed here, found little refiftance from the Indians, who are neither fo cruel nor fo warlike as in other parts ; fo he took poffeffion of all that traft, in the name of Their Majefties, for the crowns of Caflile and Leon, as was always the cuftom of the firfl difcoverers. And he for himfelf took pofTeflion of thofe feven feet of earth which death allows to thofe he feizes, let them be never fo ambitious, though while they are alive a whole world will not fuffice them. He lies buried there ; and an end was put to his difcoveries. Much about the fame time, there were at His Catholic Majefty's court the two famous captains Ferdinand Magellan and Ruy Falero, offering their perfons, valour, and induftry, for to find out, either towards the fouth or weft, an end to America, or fome canal or ftraight by which both feas might communicate with each another ; and fo the navigation from Europe might be made in the fame fhips, in which they might go round all its coafts. They were treating upon this fubjett ; and the Portugal em- baflador made it his bufinefs to oppofe Magellan, becaufe being fallen out with his king about this difcovery, he defired he might not make it for the crown of Caftile ; but at laft the king having heard at Sarag09a, in prefence of his council, the reafons and grounds that Magellan and Falero went upon, he accepted their fervice, and honoured them with the habits of St. Jago ; and having fettled the capitulation with them. His Majefty commanded the fquadron to be made ready, and named the cap- tains and officers of it ; and having heard that there was a difpute rifen between Ma- gellan and Falero, about who fhould carry the royal ftandard or flag, and the like, he ordered Falero, as not yet well recovered of a difteraper he lay under, to ftay at home, and mind his health ; and, in the mean time, that another fquadron fhould be got ready, in which Falero fhould follow. The firft fquadron being ready. His Majefty commanded the afhftant of Seville, that he fhould deliver the royal ftandard to Magellan in the great church of Santa Maria, of Vidtory of Triana, taking at the fame time from him an oath of fidelity, or homage, according to the cuftom of Caftile, that he fhould perform the voyage with all fidelity, as a good and loyal valTal of His Majefty. The captains took Hke- wife an oath to obey Magellan in all things. He, after many vows, having recom- mended himfelf and his voyage to our Lord, went on board the fhip called the Trinity, and the treafurer general in the Viftory (fo famous for being the firft that went round the world}. The other fhips were the Conception, St. Jago, and St, Anthony. They fet fail the tenth of Auguft in the year 1 5 1 9. They took the ifle of Teneriff, then made the coaft of Guinea, and arrived at Rio Genneiro ; from whence they failed on St. Stephen's day, and having had a great ftorm, they entered into the river of Plata : here they ftayed eight days ; and then following their voyage, they had another terrible tenipeft, which carried away their forecaftle, and forced them to cut away their poop. They made vows to our Lady of Guadalupe and Monferrat, and to St. Jago of Gallicia. It pleafed God to hear them, and they took fhelter in the river of St. Julian, but not all ; for one of their fhips was loft : the men got on fhore, but enduring fo much by land to port St. Julian by hunger, that they feemed fkeletons '.vhen they came to their companions. 9 While 150 OVALLE S HISTORIC.^. RELATION OF CHILE. While they were wintering in this river, either idlenefs, or the great fufFerings they had undergone, and thofe which they feared, made them mutiny againft Ferdinand Magellan. There were fome of his Ihips that revolted ; but he with great boldnefs, and no lefs art, made himfelf mafter of them, punifhing fonie of the guilty, and par- doning others ; and for Juan de Carthagena and his companion in rebellion, he fet them afliore when he fet fail, leaving them a good provifion of bread and wine. It was never known whether this was fufficient to fuftain them, till they fhould meet with fome of thofe giants which had been with the fliips, and had been treated by Ma- gellan, who perhaps received them. Magellan feeing the winter over, as he thought, fet fail the feventh of November, which is when the fummer begins in thofe parts ; and having .by land obferved what he could of the ftraight, they pafled with great good fortune in twenty days, and then fleering north, they coafted along Chile, which they left fomething at large, as having no knowledge of that land, Peru being not yet difcovered. After this, they came to the Philippine Iflands, in one of which this moll courageous captain, and famous Portuguefe, Magellan, died by the hands of the natives, or to fay better, by his own rafhnefs and over-boldnefs. Some years after, which was that of 1534, Simon of Alcazova, a Portuguefe gen- tleman of the habit of St. Jago, and gentleman of the chamber of the King, a great cofmographer, and one very expert in navigation, having been employed many years for the crown of Callile, made an agreement with the king to difcover and people two hundred leagues from the place where Albagro's government fliould end, which was in Chile. He failed from St. Lucar on the 21ft of September 1534, with five good Ihips, and two hundred and fifty men ; and without feeing land from the Gomera to the ftraight of Magellan, only having touched at cape Abre Ojos, and the Rio de Gallegos, about twenty-five leagues from the flraight's mouth, he entered them on the 17th of Januar)' 1535, having endured fo much thirfl, that the cats and dogs were come to drink wine, and the people were ready to perifh. They found a great crofs erefted by Magellan, and the wreck of the fhip which he lofl there. There appeared about twenty Indians, who gave figns of much joy to fee the Spaniards. They fol- lowed their courfe, keeping flill the right hand, as the fafefl ; but yet they had fo furious a florm, that it carried away half their fails : it blew fo, that they thought th^ (hips would have been carried away through the air. They took fhelter into a port ; and becaufe the feafon was fo far advanced, they perfuaded their general Alcazova to go out of the flraights, which he did, and return to the port of Lions, or of Wolves, which was a very good one. While they were wintering in thofe parts, they refolved to enter further into the country, and make difcovery of thofe riches which the Indians told them were there ; fo having celebrated mafs, they bleffed the banners, and the captains took a new oath of fidehty and obedience; and with this they fet out about 225 men, having fifty arcabufcs, feventy crofs-bows, four charges of powder and ball, which every one car- ried with his bread, which was about twenty-fix pounds weight. Thus they marched about fourteen leagues ; and there Alcazova, being a heavy man, could go no further, which was his ruin ; he named a lieutenant, againfl whom the men mutinied ; for having gone ninety leagues, and their provifion failing, they refolved to go back, as they did, though they had met with a river full of filh ; and that their guides told them that a httle further they fhould come to a great town, where there was a great deal of gold ; for the inhabitants wore plates of it in their ears, and upon their arms : but nothing could move them : and as one mifchief feldom comes alone, they refolved 13 to OVAiLE's HISTORICAL RELATION OF CHILE. IJI to make themfelves mafters of the (hips at their return, and to kill all that fhould oppofe them ; and fo they executed it. But God Almighty punilhed them immedi- ately ; for as they were going out of port, they loft their admiral ; and then having but one fliip, duril not venture for Spain, but put in at Hifpaniola, where Doftor Sa- ravia, of the audience of St. Domingo, chaftized the moft guilty. And thus the dif- covery of Chile, for that time, and that way, was difappointed : for God referved that honour for another. CHAP. XI. — Of the Dijcovery of other Parts of Jmcrica before that of Chile. WHILE the fhips are making ready to go to the difcovery of Peru, it will not be amife to touch upon the difcovery of fome other parts of America by the by, that at lead the order of time, with which the difcoveries preceded each other, may be under- ftood ; and what we are to fuy afterwards about Chile will be made plainer, that being our chief defign. It has been faid already, in its proper place, how the Admiral Columbus difeovered the Terra Firma, or continent of America, in his fourth voyage from Spain to the Indies, and found the port of Puerto Bello the fecond of November 1502. We have alfo faid how Vafco Nunnes de Balboa having founded Sanfta Maria la Antigua of Dairen, difeovered the South-Sea, and took pofleffion of it in the month of September or Oftober in the year 15 13, as alfo that in the year 1515, Juan Dias de Solis difeo- vered the river of Plata the iirft of all difcoverers. Now we will add what is known about the difcovery of other lands ; amongft the which, one of the firft was that of Yucatan, which wai undertaken by Captain Fran- cifco Hernandes de Cordoua, in the year 1 5 1 7, and the Adelantado of it is at this day Don Chriftoval Scares de Sohs, a gentleman of an antient and noble family in Sala- manca. This fame year other Caftilians difeovered the land of Campeche, where, in a chapel of the Indians, full of their idols, they found painted croffes, of which they were not lefs aftonifhed than rejoiced, feeing light in darknefs, and the trophies of Chrift by the fide of Behal ; which, at laft, by the Spaniards' arrival in thofe parts, were better known to thofe barbarous people. In the year 1518, the Licentiado Efpi- nofa. who was named deputy to the governor Pedrarias, founded the city of Panama, which is the canal by which all the treafure of Peru paffes to Spain in the galleons. This city has not increafed fo much as many others of the Indies, becaufe being fitu- ated near the equinoftial line, its temperature does not agree with thofe born in Europe ; but yet there are many conftitutions that do very well there, becaufe of the great riches that are eafily acquired there : and thofe who feek them, think no air bad. There are a great many people of quality : for there is a biftiopric, a royal Au- diencia, or court of judicature ; a tribunal of royal officers, and a chapter of canons, feculars and regulars. But that which in my judgement is moft commendable in it, is the piety, mercy, and liberality of its inhabitants. I have this year received advice, that by the negligence of a female flave, the greateft part of the city was burnt ; for the houfes being of wood, if one take fire, it is hard to ftop the flames : there was loft in this a great mafs of riches, a great part of the lofs falling on the cathedral ; and a little after, there being a gathering made, though this misfortune had concerned almoft every body, who for that reafon were lefs in a condition to contribute by way of alms, which fome of them wanted, yet they gave above twenty thoufand pieces of eight, and went on contributing. This was an extraordinary mark of their charity ; but 152 ovalle's historical relation of chile. but the ordinary ones, in which they conftantly fliow their generofity, are to ftrangers and paffengers who pafs from Spain to the Indies, who moft of them are at a lofs till they meet with fome patron, or friend, or comitryman, to aflifl: them ; and they would often be reduced to great extremity, if this were not, as it is, a common inn for all thofe people ; for in the college of our company alone, though it is not yet founded, but lives upon alms, I faw when I was there, a cloth laid at the porters' chambers, where every day they provided for, and fed about fifty or fixty paffengers, with bread and flefli in abundance. The fame is done by other convents ; and the leculars, I faw, gave them money and other neceffaries. This, as to the city of Panama, founded in the year 1518, in which year the religious friars of St. Dominick and St. Francis paffed from the ifland of Hifpaniola, and began to found convents in Terra Firma, and the pearl coaft ; from whence thefe two holy orders purfued their miflion through all the land, enlightening it with their doftrine and holy examples ; by which they have made fuch a progrefs among the Indians, that the prefent flouriftiing of the faith is owing to them, to the great faving of the Indian fouls. The year 1519, Ferdinand Magellan made the difcovery of the coaft of Chile ; and the fame year Hernando Cortes went from the point of St.Antonne la Havana to Corocha, which is the firft point of Yutacan eaft, to begin the conqueft of the great empire of Mexico ; of which, and the noble aftlons of that great man, it is better to be filent than to touch upon them only by the by, as we fliould be forced to do ; this being not a place to explain the ftate and grandeur of that mighty monarch Montefuma, who was ibvereignly obeyed in fo many and fuch great provinces. Who can exprefs in few- words all this, and the felicity that accompanied Cortes in all his undertakings, which were fuch as they appeared poffible only after they were done, feeming otherwife fo high and difficult, as to be inaceflible to the extremeft boldnefs ? Indeed, it cannot be denied, but that he was affifted by heaven, whofe inftrument he was in planting the Chriftian faith among thofe gentiles, and fliewing fuch reverence to the preachers of it, as might ferve the Indians for an example ; a quality which will always give reputation to princes, both before God and men. In the year 1528, the king fent a colony to the Rio de la Plata, having agreed with the merchants of Seville for that purpofe. The city they founded was that of Buenos Ayres, which is on the fide of that river, in that part of it where it grows narrow from its large entrance at fea ; and the river there is not above nine leagues over. In the year 1532, Cedro de Heredia of Madrid failed from Spain, and founded the city of Carthagena, which is the firft Scala which the Spanilh galleons make coming from Spain for the Indies, to fetch filver. It was fo called, becaufe its port was like that of Carthagena in Spain ; for the old name of the Indians was Calamari. He had at firft an engagement with the Indians ; and though they ftiowed themfelves very brave, yet he beat them, and founded the city, which is at prefent one of the beft of the Indies, being walled with ftone, and fo ftrong, that we may name it as an impreg- nable fortrefs. It is fituated in an ifland, divided from the continent by a fmall arm of the fea, which ebbs and flows, and comes to the bog of Canapote : there is a bridge or caufe- way there, . that goes to the Terra Firma. The port is very fafe, and good ftiips go into it by two mouths or entrances, a greater and a lefs ; the great is fandy ; and the year that I was there, they told me that it was almoft fliut up by the fand whith a river cafl^ up againft it ; and now they write me word, that it is quite filled up, fo that there is no going in but by the leffer entrance, which makes it fo much the ftronger, and it is defended by a good caftle ; befides which the city is well garniflied wth artillery, fo OVALLE S HISTORICAL RELATION OF CHILE. 1 53 fo as not to fear an invafion. The plot of the city is very beautiful, all the ftreets being handfomely difpofed, the houfes of free ftone, high and noble ; fo are the churches and convents, particularly that of the Jefuits, which makes a beautiful profpeft to the fea. Here is a cuftom-houfe for the king, and a houfe called of the Rigimiento, with other public buildings ; it is very populous, and of a great trade, by reafon of the coming of the galleons ; and from them they have wine and oil ; corn they have in their own territory : there refides a bifhop, and there is a tribunal of the Holy Inqui- fition. The governor hath both the civil and military command : it increafes every day in riches, being fo fituated, that it fhares all the riches of Peru, Mexico, and Spain. In the year 1540, Captain Francifco de Orellana difcovered the great river of the Amazones, which is called alfo Orellana, and by a common miftake Maragnon ; and went from it to Spain, where, upon the relation he gave of its greatnefs, the Emperor Charles V. ordered him three fhips, with people, and all things necelfary to make a fettlement. But this had no effeft, becaufe having loft half his men at the Canaries and Cape Vert, he was too weak when he got thither ; yet he attempted to go up the river in two large boats, to which his fleet was reduced ; but finding his wants of every thing, he came out again, and went by the coaft of Caracos to the Margarita, where he and his people are faid to have died. About twenty years after, the viceroy of Peru fent a good fleet under Pedro de Orfua : but this mifcarried alfo, becaufe he ■was killed treacheroufly by Lopes de Aguirre, who rebelled with the fleet ; but having miflfed the entrance of the river, he landed on the continent, near the ifland of Trini- dado, where he was executed by order from court. Some years after this the fergeant- general, Vincente de los Reyes Villalobos, Alonzo de Miranda, and the general Jo- feph de Villa Mayor Maldonado, undertook the fame defign, but with the fame for- tune, death taking them away ; fo that they gave over at that time all attemps on Peru and Quito fide. But ftill the fame of this river continuing, Benito Maciel, general of Paria, and fince that governor of Maragnon, and Francifco Coello de Caravallo, go- vernor likeMnfe of Maragnon and Paria, attempted its difcovery up the river ; and though they were backed by the king's royal commands, yet there were many crofs accidents as to hinder the execution of their enterprize. The fathers of our company of Jefus attempted likewife this difcovery, by the motive > of faving fo many fouls; but beginning with a nation called the Cofanes, their pro- grefs was ftopped by the cruel death given to Father Raphael Fernandes, who was preaching the faith to them. Thirty years after, which was 1537, fome friars of the order of St. Francis, moved by the zeal of amplifying the glory of the gofpel, and by order of their fuperiors, went from Quito, in company of Captain Juan de Pabcios, and fome foldiers : they began to fail down this river, and came to the Encabellados, or people with long hair ; but not finding the harveft ready, they returned to Quito, except only two of their lay-brethren, which were Domingo de Brieva, and Friar An- dres de Toledo, who with fix foldiers more failed down as far as the city of Paria, a fettlement of the Portuguefe, about forty leagues from the fea. They pafled by the city of St. Luis de Maragnon, where the governor Jacomo Reymondo de Moronna, by the information he had from thefe friars, caufed feven and forty canoes to be got ready, and embarked upon them feventy Spaniards, with 1 200 Indians, fome of war, and fome to help to row, under the command of Captain Pedro Texeira, who, having fpent a whole year in his voyage, came at laft to the city of Quito, having difcovered and navigated the whole river of the Amazones, from its entrance into the fea to its fource or rife. VOL. XIV. X The IJ4 ovalle's historical relation of chile. The viceroy of Peru, who at that time was the Count de Chinchon, being infonneii of this voyage of Captain Pedro Texeira, refolved to fend two perfons back with him for the crown of Caftile, who might give a perfeft relation of the difcovery. At this time the city of Quito was governed by Don Juan Vafques de Acunna, as corregidor for His Majefty over both Spaniards and Indians, and who at prefent is corregidor of Potofi, who very zealoufly offered his perfon for one, and his fortune to raife people at his own charges, and provide them with all neceifaries ; but the royal Audientia, confidering how much he would be wanted in his office, where his prudence, experience and zeal, had fhowed themfelves, refufed to let him go, and chofe a brother of his, that they might not totally deprive his illtiftrious family of that glory. This brother was a father of our company of Jefus, and named Father Chrilt- oval de Acunna, who was reftor of the college of Cuen^a, and gave him for compa- nion Father Andres de Arrieda of the fame company, who was profeflbr of divinity in the fame college. They fet out from Quito in. the year 1539, and having navigated the whole river, which, according to their account, is thirteen hundred and fifty-fix leagues long (though Orellana makes it eighteen hundred leagues), obferved exactly the rife of this great river, its fituation, its courfe, latitude, and depth, the iflands it makes, the arms into which it is divided, the rivers it receives, the riches, quantities, temperature, and climate of its fhores, the cufloins and manners of that multitude of people that inhabit it, and particularly of thofe famous Amazones. All which may be feen in a treatife made of it by Father Chriftoval de Acunna, printed in Madrid ; and it is a relation that defer ves credit, he being an eye-witnefs, and having examined various nations as he went. Thefe informations were well received in Madrid ; but the revolutions which fuc- ceeded in thofe kingdoms hindered all further progrefs, and prevented thofe holy defit^ns for the converfion of that great part of America. There are infinite numbers of Indians that inhabit the iflands, and other parts of this river. It is faid they have one fettlement, that is a town, above a league in length. And now, omitting many other conquefts, made much about the fame time in the iflands and coafts of the North-Sea, and that which was made in the South-Sea by Xil Gongales de Avila, in the land of Nicaragua, in the year 1522, let us attend (for it is high time) to the dif- covery of Peru, of which we Ihall treat more at large, becaufe it has a connexion to that of Chile. CHAP. XII. — The Difcovery of Peru is given to Don Francifco Pizarro, and Don Diego d 'Almagro, and Hernando Loque ; and how much they endured in it. THE captains Don Francifco Pizarro, and Don Diego Almagro, in company with the fcholaftic of the cathedral church of Dairen, called Hernando de Loque, came to the governor Pedrarias, and defired of him, as friends, the favour of being employed in the difcovery and conquefts of thofe coafts which run fouth from Panama, where lies the powerful kingdom of Peru, of which at that time there was little light ; and for this they propofed their reafons ; among which, that which was of leaft value, they relied moft upon, and that was their experience they had attained under their* general Vafco Nunnes de Balboa. They met with little difficulty with the governor ; for fo long as they did not defire any affiftance of the King's treafure, but ventured their own and their lives, they eafily obtained leave to undertake what they would. They pre- 1 1 fently ovalle's historical relation of chile. l^^ ^sntly bought one of the fliips which Balboa had built for that defign ; and having got together threefcore men, and four horfes, (for at that time horfes were a great rarity,) Hernando de Loque faid mafs ; and when he came to confecration, he divided the Hoftia, or facrament of the body of Chrift, into three parts, of which he took one, and gave the other two to his two companions, offering themfelves to God, with inten- tion to propagate among thofe people his glorious name, and plant the Chriftian faith amongft them by the predication of the Gofpel. Thofe who were prefent flied tears out of devotion, and at the fame time pitied thefe undertakers, looking upon their enterprize as a mad one. About the middle of November 1524, Don Francifco Fizarro having left Don Diego Almagro behind him, to get more people together, failed from Panama to the Ifle of Pearls, to the port of Pinnas, (the laft difcovered by Balboa, and after him by Pafqual de Andagoya,) and went up the river of the Cacique Biru, or Biruquete, to the coun- try of Chocama, where he flopped to wait for his companion Almagro. The hard- fhips that the Caftilians endured of hunger and other inconveniences are not eafily to be told : twenty died flarved, and the refl were fick, having no other fuflenance than the bitter Palmetos ; yet Captain Pizarro, without fhewing the leafl weaknefs, took care of them all with great affeftion, which made them all love him. At that time Don Diego d'Almagro, his companion in the undertaking, came to him : he was received like an angel, for the relief he brought : he had loft one of his eyes by the fhot of an arrow, in a rencounter he had with the Indians. They both together purfued their conqueft ; but provifion failing them once more, and their foldiers being almoft naked, and fo per- fecuted with mofquitoes, which are infinite there, that they could not live, they began to talk of returning to Panama, to which Pizarro himfelf was well enough inclined ; but Almagro exhorted them rather to die than lofe patience, ofFei'ing to return to Panama for new fuccour, while he Ihould leave his companion in the ifland of Gallo. The effefl: that this had, was, that he found the government altered in Panama, and Pedrarias fucceeded by Pedro de los Rios, who hearing of the miferable condition of thoie Caltilians, would not fuffer Almagro to return to them, being defirous they fhould give over the enterprize as impracticable. He fent for this end a gentleman of Cordoua, culled Juan Tafur, a man of excellent parts, equal to his noble defcent, with a com- mifTion to bring thofe people back, that they might not all perifh. He came, and fig- nihed his order to Pizarro, at which he was out of all patience, feeing it would be the ruin of his projeft. Tafur feeing this, took a prudent medium, which was, that he fhould draw a line between him and Pizarro, who fhould be at the head of his men : and Tafur told them, that all thofe who refolved to return to Panama, fhould pafs the line, and come on his fide. Having faid this, they began to pafs the line, all to thirteen and a Mulatto, who faid they would die with Pizarro : and fo Tafur returned with all the reft to Panama. Captain Francis Pizarro remained with his thirteen companions in an ifland, which, for the greater proof of his courage and conftancy, happened to be the Gorgona, which is a pidure of hell for the clofenefs of its woods, the afperity of its mountains, the infinity of its mofquitoes : the fun is fcarcely ever feen in it for the continual rains (that fall. When yafur came to Panama, and his two friends Almagro and Loque found that Pizarro ftaid behind with fo few companions, it is not credible how much affliftion they fliewed : they folicited the prefidcnt, that at leaft another veflel might be fent to bring them away, in cafe they found them alive ; and after many difficulties, at laft a fhip was ordered after them, but upon condition to be back at Panama in fix months : the X ?, fhip 156 OVALLE S HISTORICAL RELATION OF CHILE. fhip failed, and came to the place where Pizarro and his companions were left. Who can exprefs the joy and furprize of thofe poor abandoned wretches, when they defcried at a diftance the fails of the fliip ? At firfl: they could not believe their own eyes ; for the defire and longing for a thing makes it appear lefs probable to come to pafs : but at lafl: it arrived ; and Pizarro feeing hirafelf mailer of a good veffel, could not forbear attempting fome difcovery. They failed as far as the country of Tumbefe, which is very rich ; though the Tum- befe Indians faid, that their riches were nothing in comparifon of what they might fee farther. The lord of that country having heard of the arrival of the Caftilians, he fent prefently to vifit them at their fhip, with twelve bafkets of provifions, and, among the reft, a fheep of that country, which was prefented to them by the virgins of the temple, as to men who feemed defcended from heaven, and fent by God for fome great thing. The ambaffadors came ; and wondering to fee the fliip with white men who had beards, they afked them, Who they were ? whence they came ? and what they pre- tended ? They anfwered them, that they were Caftilians, vafl'als of a powerful mo- narch, who, though fo great, had yet a greater over him, whom he owned, with all other kings, and who is in heaven, and is called Jefus Chrift, in whofe name they came to undeceive them of their errors in worftiipping gods of ftone and wood, there being but one God, Creator of all things, whom we all ought to worftiip. They explained to them, that there was a heaven and hell, the immortality of the foul, and the other myfteries of our faith. The Indians ftood ftaring and gaping, hearing this doftrine, which had never been heard of before in their country ; for they believed, that there was no other king in the world but their King Guayanacapa, nor other gods but their idols. Among all the things they admired, there were two chiefly : the one was a negro ; for they never had feen one, and did believe that his colour was fome ftrong dye ; for which reafon, they beftowed much pains in waftiing his face to get it oft" ; but when they faw that he was rather blacker, and that he ftiewed at the fame time white teeth, for he could not hold laughing to fee their fimplicity, they fell a laughing too, and could not but admire sfuch a fort of men. The other thing was the crowing of a cock, which the captain fent them with a hen of Caftile : every time he crowed, they aftced what he faid ? for they thought his voice articulate, like the human voice ; which is an argument that they had not that kind of fowl : and Garcilaflb de la Vega is of that opinion, anfwering the objeftion of the Indian name they give a hen, that is, Atagualpa, which, he fays, was a name given by the Indians after the coming of the Spaniards. The Spaniards having refrefhed themfelves well on fliore, began to defire of Pizarro to return to Panama, and gather a greater force, that which he then had being very difproportioned to his under- taking : he yielded to their perfuafions, having, for this time, made difcovery only as far as a place called Santa, which is very near the equinoftial line ; and having had a more certain account of Cufco, its riches, and the mighty empire it was head of. So taking with him fome Indians, and fome patterns of the gold, as a teftimony of the difcovery, he returned to Panama. CHAP. XIII. — Captain Trancifco Pizarro returns to Panama, goes from thence to Spain, and purfues his Conqiicji. PIZARRO being come to Panama, went with his two companions to the Governor Don Pedro de los Rios, to reprefent to him their reafons for continuing their difcovery, upon OVALLE's historical relation of CHiLK. 1 57 upon account of the riches of the country, as well as the planting the faith in the capital of fo great a monarch, and fo in all its dominions : but the governor would not agree to it ; and fo they refolved that Pizarro fhould go to Spain, to propofe it to the King him- felf. He undertook the voyage ; and, to give more credit to what he fhould fay, he took along with him feveral things proper to the country he had difcovered, as pieces of gold and filver, fome of thofe fheep we have mentioned, and fome of the Indians themfelves clothed after the manner of their country. The King was much pleafed with them ; and Pizarro, in his firfl audience, began to propofe the intent of his dif- covery, the great hardfhips he had endured, he and his companions going naked, and almofl flarved, expofed to the mofquitoes and poifoned arrows of the Indians ; and all this, having fpent three years in this fort of life, for the increafe of the Gofpel and His Majefty's royal dominions. His Majefty heard him with much attention and goodnefs, fhewing great compaffion for his fuiierings, and ordered a gratification for himfelf, and ' his two companions, as alfo the thirteen who would not forfake him : he received all his memorials, and ordered them to be difpatched to his mind, having firfl made an agreement with him proportionably to his great merits. They did not believe in Spain (and that is an old difeafe every where) all that Pizarro faid of the riches of Peru, and of the palaces and houfes of ftone which he had feen, till he fhewed them the pieces of gold and filver which he had brought with him ; and then the fame of that land began to fpread itfelf, and with it the covetoufnefs of fharing thofe treafures, every one blaming the governor of Panama for not having given the necelTary afTiflance to the difcovery. Pizarro being difpatched with the title of Adelantado of the firfl two hundred leagues he fhould conquer, having alfo a new coat of arms, and other privileges granted to him ; and taking with him four flout brothers that he had, he embarked for the Indies with one hundred and twenty-five Caflilians more. He left Sanlucar in January 1530, and arrived at Puerto Bello, Avhere he was received with great joy by his companions and friends, who were all pleafed with the favours the King had beftowed upon them by his means : only Don Diego de Almagro vas not fo well pleafed that Pizarro had made a better bargain for himfelf than for him, his partner in all the undertaking ; he made his complaint to him, and refolved to part company, and difcover and conquer by himfelf: but being affured, that as fbon as the firfl two hundred leagues fliould be conquered, he would ufe his intereft to have him made Adelantado of two hundred more before any of his brothers ; and fo fufFering himfelf to be perfuaded, they agreed anew, and fell to preparing every thing for their enterpi'ize. He remained at Panama ; and the Adelantado, with his brothers, went from thence with a good crew of men, being to be followed by Almagro, as before. To make fhort about the things perforpied by tills great conqueror, the great riches he got, and among the refi an emerald as big as an egg, which was prefented to him, we will fuppofe him at the ifland of Pura in war with the Tombezinos ; and there he came to a clearer information of the riches of Cufco, and the flate in which that monarchy w^s at prefent : and bccaufe he had received a fpecial command, and was himfelf inclined to propagate our facred religion, as the befl means of furthering his own defign, the firfl thing he did, in landing upon the continent of Peru, was to build a church to God, to give a beginning to the fpiiitual conquefl of fouls. His firfl fettlement was at Pura, where was built the firfl church that was ever erefted in thofe kingdoms. While he was employed in this, he fent out to difcover more lands, to know more of the flate of the country. There he learnt the divifion that was between the two brothers Guafcar and Atagualpa, which was occafioned by the death of their father Guayanacapa, who was a mofl powerful mo- narch, 158 ovalle's historical relation of chile. narch, and among other fons had thefe two, which were now in war, and fome of his fubjefts followed the one, and fome the other. Guafcar was the lawful heir, but not fo brave and warlike as Atagualpa, who, though a baftard, yet becaufe he had followed his father in his wars from a child, drew to himfelf a great part of the kingdom, with which he made war upon his brother, with hopes to prevail. The Adelantado Don Francifco Pizarro refolved to have an interview with Atagualpa, who was the neareft to the place where he was. So putting his trull in God, he fet out with his fmall army, more to be valued for its bravfery than its number, which neverthe- lefs was feared and refpefted in its march. He came near the place where Atagualpa had his camp, which was near fifty thoufand men, and fent him his ambafladors on horfeback, which was a new thing in that country, to give him advice of his arrival, and the reafon of it, which was, to perfuade His Majefty, and his vaflals, to give obe- dience to the true King of Glory, from whom is derived all the power and command that princes have on earth. Atagualpa received the ambafladors in a (lately tent, fhew- ing in all his behaviour a fovereign majefty ; and though his courtiers were in great admiration of the horfes, which they had never feen, yet he kept his countenance, and concealed the eifefts fuch a novelty might have over him. He looked upon them with fome pleafure, and not as on a ftrange thing he had never feen ; for the horfes begin- ning to corvet, fome of his Indians run away, whom he prefently caufed to be put to death, for having fliewed cowardice in his royal prefence. He anfwered the ambafla- dors courteoufly, (hewing the pleafure he (hould have to fee and hear their general ; and fet a day for it, telling them, that they (hould not be difturbed, nor afraid to find him and his people in arms, for it was his cuftom to ufe them to it. The day came ; and Atagualpa marching in order with his army to the place where the Spaniards were drawn up, he difcovered to his captains the mind he had to make an end with thofe ftrangers, who had been fo bold as to enter into his country, and come fo near him without having any refpeft to his royal power ; but he ordered them not to kill them, but to take them alive, becaufe he would ufe them as his flaves ; and as for the dogs and horfes, he refolved to ofler them in facrifice to his gods. The Caftilians, who were not totally ignorant of this falfe appearance of peace and friend- (hip, though they were fo few that the Indians were four hundred to one, yet they did not lofe courage ; but with confidence in God expected the encounter, taking their pofts, and preparing every thing for it, though fecretly, that they might not be thought the aggreflbrs. Therefore he drawing near, the Adelantado (laid for him with only fifteen men, the reft being retired and hid, and fent him an embaliy by a friar, who carried the Gofpel, and told him, " That in thofe books were contained the faith, by which he and his people might be faved, and they brought it him froni God Almighty." The King heard the friar, and took the mafs-book out of his hands, looking earneftly upon it ; but not knowing how to read it, and taking it all for a jeft and a fiftion, he threw the book up into the air, making a fign at the fame time to his people to fall on ; which they did ; and then the Adelantado lifting up a handkerchief, which was the fignal to our men, they played upon them with their mufkets on one hand, and the dogs and horfemen attacked them on the other, fo that the viftory foon appeared for the Caftilians ; God Almighty having refolved to deftroy that monarchy of the Ingas, and to remove that obftacle to the propagating of the faith, and to put that land into hands that (hould increafe it, as Their Catholic Majefties have done. They took the King Atagualpa prifoner ; but treated him with all refpefl: due to his royal perfon, as the hifto- rians relate more at large. While this happened, which was on a Friday, a day dedicated to ovalle's historical relation of chile. 159 to the crofs, in the month of May in the year 1533, the army which Atagualpa had fent againft his brother Guafcar, near Cufco, overcame him and took him prilbner, and were bringing him to xA.tagualpa, without knowing any thing of what had happened between him and the Caftihans ; but on the way Guafcar learned that his enemy was a prifoner too ; and Atagualpa was at the fame time informed of the vitlory he had obtained ; he hearing it, fnook his head, and cried, " O fortune ! what is this, that I am this day a conqueror, and conquered ?" Guafcar moderated his grief with the news of his enemy's misfortune, thinlsing that the Caftilians would revenge him on the tyrant, who pretended to take from him his lawful inheritance. Atagualpa, though a prifoner, began to make reflections in this manner : If I caufe my brother to be put to death, how do I know how the Caftilians will take ic ? and whether they will not put me to death for this, and remain lords of the land ? If I let him come on, and he fpeaks with them, the juftice of his caufe will fpeak for him, and I muft perilh ; for I cannot expeO; n:ercy from any. What remedy ? He found it cunningly, as he thought : he feigned a great fadnefs, with a dcfign that the Pizarros, who vifited him every day, fliould aik him what was the matter. They did accordingly ; and, feeing him fo affiided, defired to know the caufe of that extraordinaiy grief. He anfwered deceitfully, that having received the news that his generals had put to death his brother Guafcar, it gave him an exceeding grief, of which he was not to be com- forted ; becaufe, though they were enemies, yet he was his brother ; and he could not but be much concerned at his death. All this was feigned, to fee how the Spaniards would take it ; and finding they did not feem offended at the thing, he fent orders immediately to his generals, who were coming on with his brother, that they fhould put him to death prefently by the way ; which they did, by drowning of him in a river, which amongft them is an infamous death. His cries to Heaven to revenge his unjuft death, were ufelefs at that time. But let no man give it to another to fave his own life ; for there is not a fliorter, nor a more certain way for him to lofe it : let him not ftrive by politick maxims, which an unjuft and ambitious paffion fuggefts ; for though that may be an appearance of ftabihty, yet divine juftice breaks through it all like cobwebs, and at length leaves no crime without its chaftifement. Atagualpa proved himfelf a great example of this truth, all his artifices ferving only to afford his enemies a pretext to take away his life. He had promifed to fill the room where they kept him prifoner, which was a very large one, with gold and filver, befides ten thoufand bars of gold, and fome heaps of jewels, as an earneft, for his ranfom. And though this was accepted ; and that he performed it according to his promife, yet he did not obtain what he pretended ; for, inftead of his liberty, they pronounced to him a fentence of death, which he juftly deferved for having put his brother to it, and tyrannized over that which was none of his own ; and becaufe of the advice the Spaniards had every day of the army that was gathering together, which if it were true, and Atagualpa at liberty at the head of them, there would have been good reafon to fear, from his fubtilty, great and irreme- diable inconveniences, which they thought they could no ways avoid fo well as by taking his life, though with fome hopes of his exchanging it for a better and eternal one, if it be true that before he died he was inftrudted, and received baptifm, as fome fay he did. About this time, which was in the year 1533, Don Diego d'Almagro being made marfhal, came from Panama to Tombez with a good body of men and arms ; and from thence he went on to help his good friend, the Adelantado ^Jzarro, in his con- quefts, not letting his men do any injury to his Indians as he went. There were a hundred i6o ovalle's historical kfxatiox of chile. hundred thoufand pieces of eight given them upon their arrival j for though they were not at the battle, yet their prefence confirmed the vidor}^, and helped to keep Atagualpa prifoner. The remainder of the treafure, which was above a million, was di^^ded among Pizarro's men ; and they being few, were all made rich, and in a condition to make difcoveries of their own. The Adelantado fent his brother Hernando Pizarro to Caftile, with the news of this happy progrefs of their difcoveries, and of the propagating the Chriftian faith in the converfion of the Indians ; and he alfo carried with him the claim of Bon Diego d'Almagro to two hundred leagues of land beyond his brother's, of which he was likewife to be Adelantado. All this he negotiated very much to the content of all ; and in the year 1534., there was granted, in Toledo, to Don Diego d'Almagro the government of that which they called the new kingdom of Toledo, which began at a place called Las Chinchas, where the territory of Pizarro ended, and extended itfelf to the Straights of Magellan. CHAP. XIV. — The News of the Government of Don Diego d' Ahnagro is brought to him; and he goes upon the Difcovery of that of Chile. DON Francifco Pizarro had given commifTion to Don Diego d'Almagro, to take poffeffion of Cufco, when the news came of the government of two hundred leagues given him by HisMajefty, to begin from the Chinchas. This caufed great diflurbance; for it was believed that Cufco would fall into this divifion ; and the friends of Don Fran- cifco Pizarro, judging this of great prejudice to Pizarro, that the marfhal, even by his commiffion, fhould find himfelf in poffeffion of Cufco, they advifed him immediately to revoke the powers he had given, which he did ; and this was the firfl caufe of the difturbance in Peru, which made afterwards fo great a noife, and for which they both lofl: their lives. But I being to write the hiftory of Chile, and not of Peru, (hall leave the reader to thofe hiftorians who treat of it at large. This news being known in Truxillo, one Diego d' Aguero fet out to carry it to Almagro, who was upon his march to take poffeffion of Cufco. He overtook him at the bridge of Acambay ; and he having received it with great moderation, ffiewed himfelf above the greatnefs of his fortune, and gave him as an Albricias, or prefent for his good news, feven thoufand Caftilians, which are near twenty thoufand ducats ; and by this news he was moved to change his defign of conquering a people called the Chirigusenaes, and treated of that of Chile ; for he fuppofed it would fall into the government he was to have, and (as Herrera fays) moved by the informations he had of the great riches of Chile. To prepare himfelf for this enterprize, which was hke to be very chargeable, he caufed a great deal of filver to be melted in Cufco, to draw out the King's fifths. Amongft other things, there was a man's burden of gold rings to be melted down ; and one Juande Lepe being by, and taking a fancy for one of them, begged it of Mar- fhal Almagro, who (hewed himfelf fo much a gentleman, and fo liberal, that he faid prefently, that he fhould not only take that ring, but that he fhould open both his hands, and take as many as could lie in them ; and hearing he was married, he ordered him befides four hundred crowns as a prefent for his wife. He fhewed another piece of liberality to one Bartholomew Peres, for having prefented him with a fhield, which was to order him likewife four hundred pieces of eight, and a filver pot weighing forty marks of filver, and had for handles two lions of gold, which weighed three hundred and forty pieces of eight ; and to one Montenegro, who prefented him with the firfl Spanifh cat that ever came to the Indies, he ordered fix hundred pieces 12 of ovalle's historical relation op chile. l6t of eight. There are a great many ftories more of his liberality and charity too, he being very generous and noble minded. Having difpofed all for his enterprize of Chile, he caufed proclamation to be made, that all thofe vi^ho had not fome particular employment to flay them at Cufco, Ihould make themfelves ready to go along with him. They were all overjoyed at this, he being extremely beloved for his liberality and courtefy ; and that they might furnifti themfelves with arms and horfes, he caufed one hundred and eighty load of filver to be brought out of his houfe, (in thofe days a load of filver was as much as a man could carry,j and twenty more of gold : this he diftributed among them all. Thofe who were willing, gave him bonds to pay him out of what they fhould conquer in the land they were to difcover ; for this was the way of thefe conquerors in gaining to His Majefty this new world, having no other pay but what they could purchafe. The Inga Mango, who was brother to Guafcar and Atagualpa, had fucceeded them in the government, as the fon of Guayanacapa, who had alfo many others. This Inga had taken a great kindnefs for Marfhal Almago ; fo he gave him, as a companion in his en- terprize, a brother of his, called the Inga Paullo Topo, and the high-prieft Villacumu ; the Spaniards call him Villaoma, or Vilehoma, that they might by their authority not only keep all his vaffals from falling upon them in the way, but rather fhould receive him, and make him prefents. The marfhal defired thefe two perfons to go before, in company with three Caftilians, and make a fettlement or habitation at the end of two hundred leagues. The other people, and Juan de Savedra, went by another way ; and when they had gone one hundred and thirty leagues from Cufco, they founded the town of Paria. Here the marfhal overtook them ; and he was likewife affured of the title of Adelantado granted him by His Majefty, with the government of the new kingdom of Toledo, which was to begin from the borders of New Caftile ; for fo they called Pizarro's government. His friends advifed him to return immediately, wherever this exprefs overtook him, becaufe there was one come to the city of Los Reyes, with a commiffion from the king to regulate limits of both governments to each of the Adelantadoes : but Almagro was fo poffeffed with the ambition of conquering fo great and rich a kingdom as that of Chile, that he did not value the land he had difcovered, in comparifon of what he was to difcover, out of which he defigned to reward his friends, and the many gentlemen that accompanied him ; fo he purfued his journey; where it will not be amifs to leave him engaged with the fnows, and ill palTages of the Cordillera, while we give a vifit to the great city of Lima, called otherwife De los Reyes, becaufe it being the head of thofe kingdoms, we cannot well pafs it by. This city was founded by the Adelantado Don Francifco Pizarro in the year 1555, in a very pleafant plain, about two leagues from the fea, upon a fine quiet river ; which bemg derived by drains and cuts all over the plain, fertilize it fo copioufly, that it is all covered with feveral forts of products, as vineyards, fugar-works, flax, garden pro- duct, and other delightful plants : and if there be any thing they want from abroad, it is brought them fo punctually, that all their markets are fupplied with all manner of delicacies that can be wifhed for. For this and many other delights of this city, it happens to moft people who live there, that they cannot endure to think of leaving it for any other place ; fo that it feems an inchanted place, where the entrance is eafy, and the getting out difficult. I myfelf heard the Spanifh merchants, who, the year I was there, had fold their goods themfelves at Lima, whereas they ufed to fell them at Puerto Bello, fo enamoured of it, though they ftaid but a little while there, that during our whole navigation they could talk of nothing elfe ; and to fay truth, it deferves their praifes j for though it cannot ^'OL. XIV. T be i62 oValle's historical relation of chile. be denied, that fome cities I have feen in Europe do out-do it in fome things, yet fetv come near it, take it altogether : and, firft, for riches, it is the fountain from whence ail the relt of the world drinks; its bravery in cloaths, and magnificency of the court, out-does all others : it is extraordinarily populous ; for a father of our com- pany, who had the care of catechifmg the Negroes, told me, they were at lead fixty thoufand, and more, that came to confeflion. They have iumptuous buildings, though outwardly they make no fhew, having no tiles ; for it never rains all the year round : all the furniture, as piftures, beds, &c. are mighty rich. There are great numbers of coaches, and abundance of gentry ; all the inhabitants very rich, merchants of great ftocks, tradesmen and handicraftfmen of all profeilions. But that which is to me moll confiderable, is, what belongs to the worfhip of God, and cult of religion ; for the cathedral church, and all the parifh churches are very fumptuous, and provided of admirable learned men, which come out of that univerfity ; of which thofe of the country are not the leaft to be valued, having furnifhed fo many preachers and other fubjefts for all other dignities, even to the higheft government. What Ihall I lay of the orders of friars and nuns ? I fcarce know one order that has not two or three con- vents in the city, beautiful cloiftei'S, great buildings, and yet greater churches ; fome after the old falhion ; all with burnifhed gold from top to bottom, as are thofe of St.Auguftin, and St.Dominick : others after the modern way, with curious well- wrought ceilings ; as is that of the Jefuits, and of our lady of Mercedes, which are of a very fine architefture. There are eight nunneries, fome of which have above two hundred nuns in them. There are befides many oratories, confraternities, hofpitals, and corigregations. In our convent alone of the Jefuits, I remember there were eight foundations of feveral kinds, and for people of as many different ranks and eltates in the world. The great congregation has tew in the world equal to it : the chapel of it is very large, and of a very rich material, covered with filk and gold, and rare piftures, with other rich ornaments belonging to it. There is here great frequentation of the facraments by monthly communions : the body of Chrift is expofed, and the church fo adorned with mufick and fweet fmells, that it is a paradife upon earth. And amongfl: other pieces of devotion performed by this con- gregation, there is a great entertainment or treat given once a year at an hoipital, which is lb magnificent, that it is worth feeing : the fame is done in proportion by the other congregations. This city is the feat of a viceroy, who indeed is a king in greatnefs and authority, difpofing ot a vaft number of places, commands, and polls of honour and profit. 'Iherc is likewife a rich archbilhoprick of great authority ; three courts, or royal audiencias ; a merchant court, which decides ail matters of trade ; a famous univerfity, in which are profdfors very learned in their profeilions ; three colleges or Ichools for youth, under the care of the fathers of our company of Jefus, in which are about one hundred and thirty profefibrs or mailers : there are every day new fountlations for orphans, widows, and to retire women from lewdneis : there is the famous hofpital of St. Andrew for the Spaniards ; and St. Anne for the Indians ; all which would require a relation by themfelves. This is what 1 could not avoid faying about this great capital of Peru ; and if it continues increafing as it has done for this firlt age, it will not have its fellow in the world. The fame may be laid of Cufco, Arequipa, Chuquizaga, and the great town of Potofi, which increafe fo, that he who is abfent a few years, does not know them when he fees them again ; and the reafon is, that the veins and mines of gold and filver, which, like a loadltone, have drawn fo many people thither, are fo far from lellen- 1 1 ing. ovalle's historical relation of chile. 163 ing, that new ones are difcovered every day, and thofe richer than the old ones ; for which reafon there comes yearly more people, and among them much gentry, as well as tradefmen of all arts and profeffions, who moft of them fettle and increafe there. CHAP. XV. — The Adelaniado Almagro enters into Chile, having fuffered extremely by the Way, WE left the Adelantado Don Diego de Almagro in a place called Paria, from whence he was to purfue his journey to Chile, as he did in the beginning of the year 1535. He himfelf going before, ordered Juan de Savedra to follow with twelve horfe by the royal highway through the province of Las Chicas, the chief place of which was Topifa, where he found the Inga Paulo, and the priefl Villacumu, who prefented him with ninety thoufand pefos of very fine gold, it being the tribute they ufed to fend the Inga fi-oni Chile, and which they wei'e now fending, without being informed of the tragical accidents that had befallen the family ; and there he fent back a great many Caciques of the countries he left behind him, and who had waited upon him thither. The three Spaniards, whom he had fent with the Inga Paulo, and two more who joined themfelves to them, being defirous of making new difcoveries, and acquiring honour, and withal making their court to the marfhal, went before, till they came to a place called Jujuy, which is a place or country where the people are very warlike, and eat human flefh, and who kept the Ingas always in great awe. This boldnefs coft three of the Spaniards their lives, though they fold them dear. The Adelantado being refolved to revenge their deaths, lent Captain Salfedo, with fixty horfe and foot, to chaftife thofe Indians ; but they, being alarmed, had called together their friends, and made a fort to defend themfelves in, and many pits with fliarp flakes in them, that the horfes might fall into them ; with which, and many facrifices and invocations made to their gods, they had refolved to exped their enemies. Captain Salfedo found them thus fortified, and being himfelf inferior in ftrength, fent to the Adelantado for relief, who fent it him under the command of Don Francifco de Chares ; but the Indians then avoided engaging, and refolved to abandon their fort ; though, not to lofe all their pains, they refolved firft to attack Don Francifco de Chares, where they killed a great many, and particularly of the Indians Yanaconas ; and carrying oft the fpoils, they made a fafe retreat : the Spaniards returned back to their chief body. Since we mentioned the Yanaconas, it will not be amifs to explain the fignification of that word, for the better underftanding of what follows. The Yanaconas were, among the Indians, a people fubjeft to perpetual flavery ; and to be known, were bound to wear a fort of habit different from the reft. I'hefe feeing the bravery of the Spaniards, and how much they made themfelves be feared and re- fpedfed, began to rife againfl their maflers, and adhere^ to the Spaniards, hoping thereby to fliake off the yoke of flavery ; and became cruel enemies to the other In- dians. That which this word Yanacona now fignifies in Chile, is, thofe Indians who do not belong to any particular lord ; for as to freedom, there is no difference, the king having made them all free alike. From Jujuy the Adelantado marched with the vanguard, purfuing his journey, leaving the rear to the care and command of Nogaral de UUoa. He came to a place called Chaquana, where he found the Indians in arms ; for though at firfi: they were frighted y 2 with 164 ovalle's historical relation of chile. with the fwlftnefs of the horfes, yet at laft they grew fo little afraid of them, that they took a folemn oath by the great fun, either to die or kill them all. The Adelamado attacked them, and was in great danger, for they killed his horfe under him in the engagement ; but he continuing flill to fight them, they refolved at lafl to retire : then he purfued his journey, with his whole army, which was of two hundred horfe, and fomething above three hundred foot ; with a great many Indians, as well Yanaconas, as others, who aflifted the Inga Paulo. The army being thus numerous, they began to want provifions ; and, which was worfe, they were without hopes of finding any, there being no place thereabouts that could afford it, the country being a defart, which lafted feven days, all barren ground, and full of fait nitre j and for their comfort, as they defcended a hill or precipice, after which they hoped for fome relief, they met with the fnows of the Cordillera, which was a fight able to freeze the boldefl: under- taker, confidering the dangers and fufferings they were threatened with. Herrera, when he comes to this paflage, fays, fpeaking of the bravery of the Spaniards, and their patience in fuffering a great deal, which I fhall not relate, that I may not be thought to praife my own countrymen with affe£tation ; but I cannot omit fome part of it : he fays then, that to overcome fuch difficulties, none could have attempted it, but fuch as were ufed to endure hunger and thirft, and to enter into a country without guides, through forefts, and over great torrents, fighting at the fame time with their enemies and the elements, and fhewing invincible minds ; marching both day and night, enduring cold and heat, loaded with their arms and provifion ; being all of them ready to put a hand to all things, even the moft noble among them being the firft, when a bridge or any thing was to be made, to turn pioneers and carpenters, and cut down trees, by which they were fit for the greateft enterprizes. The Adelantado feeing the new, and, in all appearance, the infuperable difficulty that attended this journey, did not lofe courage, but made a bold exhortation to his men, telling them, that thefe were accidents that ufed to befal foldiers, without which no great honour could be gained, nor any of thofe riches which they fought after ; that they fhould put their truft in God, who would not fail to affift them, fince the planting of his faith depended upon their prefervation. They all anfwered chearfuUy, that they were ready to follow him to death ; and becaufe example is the beft rhetorick, he firft began to enter into the Cordillera, or fnowy mountains, with a detachment of horfe going before, that if he found any provifions, he might fend a (hare to the army, which began to faint for want of it. But the more he advanced, he met with nothing but vaft defarts, with a wind fo cold, that it ftruck them through ; and the paflage grew ftraiter and ftraiter, till at laft it pleafed God, that from a high hill they difcovered the valley of Copiapo, where the kingdom of Chile begins, where they were received very kindly by the Indians, out of the refped; they bore to the Inga Paulo, and afforded them provifions enough to fend fome to the army which followed. It is not poftible to ima- gine how much they were prefled both by cold and hunger, both Spaniards and In- dians ; here one would fall into the fnow, and be buried before he was dead ; another would lean againft a rock, and remain frozen, juft as if he had been alive. If any did but ftop to take breath, immediately a blaft of cold air left him fixed and immoveable, as if he had been of iron ; and a Negroe, who had a led horfe in his hand, did but turn his head, and ftop to fee who called him, as fomebody did, and both he and the horfe remained like two ftatues ; fo that there was no remedy but to keep moving, for it was certain death to ftop a little ; but it could not be, but people fo weary and fo weak muft ftand ftill fometimes ; and therefore they loft a great many men, ftrowed up and down the mountain. Gar- ovaixe's historical kblation' of chile. 165 Garcilaflb fays, there died ten thoufand Indians and Negroes ; of the fifteen thoufand which went with the Inga Paulo, only five thoufand efcaped ; for t)eing all natives of Peru, and not having ever felt fuch cold, for which they were totally unprovided with cloaths, they died apace ; the Spaniards being better provided, endured lefs ; and yet Garcilaffo fays, they loft above a hundred and fifty men, and thirty horfes, which was a great lofs ; others loft their fingers and toes, without feeling it. Their greateft fuf- ferings were in the night-time ; for they had no wood to make fire, and the Indians eat the very dead bodies out of hunger. The Spaniards with all their hearts would have eat the dead horfes, but they could not ftop to flea them. At laft the provifions, fent them by the Adelantado, met them ; fo they pafTed the reft of the way pretty well. When they came to the valley, the Indians made much of them, where we will leave them, to fee how others, that came after the Adelantado, pafs the mountain. CHAP. XVI. — Others pafs the Cordillera. — What happened to the Adelantado in Copiapo : — His Return frorn Chile : — His Misfortune and Death. I DO not find clearly the time of the year in which this army paffed the Cordillera : it is certain it could not be in the midft of fummer, nor in the heart of winter, becaufe not one of them would have efcaped, fince the firft high wind would have overwhelmed them in the fnow ; therefore they paffed it, either in the beginning, or the end of the winter ; and moft probably it was at the entrance of the winter ; for if it had been at the going out of the winter, thofe who followed would not have run fo great a hazard. The firft of thefe was one Rodrigo Orgonnes, who was left by the Adelantado in Cufco, to raife men and follow him, as he did. He loft his nails, and would have loft his fingers, if he had not taken his hand off" the pole that held his tent up : others loft their eyes, their ears, and many their lives ; particularly all thofe who were in one tent, which a ftorm rifing carried up, and in the morning they were found all dead in the fnow : they loft alfo fix and twenty horfes. 1 The next who paffed after Rodrigo Orgonnes, was one Juan de Arrada, who brought the Adelantado the king's difpatches, and his commiffion for his government, whom we left in Copiapo ; and it will not be amifs to fee what befel him there, before he received his commiffion, and faw his friends. The firft thing he did in this valley, was a work of charity and juftice, in favour of the true lord of that land, and was not in poffeffion of the government, becaufe he was left a minor, under the guardianftiip of his uncle, who not only did not think of putting him in poffeffion, but contrived to take his life,. which he would have effefted, if he could have got him into his hands; but the fubjefts, more loyal than he, had hid him out of the way. The Adelantado being informed of the truth of this matter, and being entreated by the wronged Prince, reftored him to the poffeffion of his government, putting the tyrant to death. Before this happened, at their firft arrival at Copiapo, the Inga Paulo took care to look out for fome gold in that little province ; and in one day having got together the value of above two hundred thoufand ducats, he prefented the Adelantado with it, in the name of his brother, the Inga Mango ; which gave the Spaniards great caufe of admiration, feeing that in one village, and in fo little time, fo much gold had been found, gathering from this, how prodigioufly rich the country muft be ; and therefore Almagro was content to think all his pains well taken that he had been at to come into it. 9 The 1 66 ovalle's historical relation of chile. The Inga Paulo finding his prefent fo well received, being defirous to make his court, got from the neighbouring parts three hundred thoufand ducats of gold more, which he prelented to the Adelancado ; which gave him fuch joy, to fee that fo rich a country was fallen to his lot, that he caufed all his people to be aifembled, and pulhng out all the bonds and obligations made to him in Cufco, for the gold and filver which he had there lent them, he cancelled them all, one by one, declaring to his debtors, that he freely forgave them their debts, and was forry they were not greater ; and not only fo, but opening his bags of gold, he began to ufe great liberalities ; which fo pleafed them, that they forgot the dangers they had gone through, every one promifmg himfelf vail; riches from fuch a conqueft. Francifco Lopes de Gomara, who writes this hiftory, fays, that it was a liberality becoming a great prince, rather than a private foldier : but he adds, as a confideration of the little (lability of human affairs, and the profperity of this world, that when he died, he had nobody to give a pall to cover his coffin. But let us not afflift the reader fo foonwith the memory of that lamentable tragedy; let us rather follow this great captain in his good fortune. As he went further into the country, he was refpeded and treated as if he had been the Inga himfelf, in all the places he came to; but when he came to a nation called the Promocaes, which was the limits, beyond M'hich the kings of Peru could never extend their empire, he found the fame refinance as they had done. The Adelantado perceiving this, de- manded fuccour from the Inga Paulo, who gave it him, by calling in the Inga's gar- rifons of the neighbouring frontier ; and fo the war began. Here the Spaniards met with their match, and began to experience that the conqueft of this part of America would not be compaffed by their bare appearing with their horfes, dogs, and guns ; or that a kingdom might be got by taking a king prifo- ner, and feparating his army to their purpofes, and fo remain abfolute mailers of the field ; for here they met with a nation, who, though they admired their horfes, and were furprized to fee them, yet the greatnefs of their courage overcame that furprize ; fo they met and engaged them with great valour, and many were killed on both fides. The Spanifh blood, which ufed to be fo little fpilt, was here fhed in abundance ; and from that time to this, the flaughter of them has not ceafed, fo as to make either fide fafe. However, the valour of the Spaniards, and the advantages they had over them by horfes and guns, was fuch, as they might well depend upon, which made them con- ceive the conqueft of Chile to be a work of about two years at molt ; as it is probable it would have been, if the divifions between Alraagro and Pizarro, and his brothers, had not cut the thread of that enterprife, as it did that of their own lives ; for they pe- rifhed by one another's hands, upon points of conteft about jurifdiclion. About this time the Adelantado being engaged with the Indians in a bloody war, Rodrigo Orgonnes arrived with his Spaniards, and fo did Juan dc Arrado, with the King's royal patents, and a commiflion for the government of a hundred leagues of the country ; which was juft as if a deluge of water had been poured upon the fire already lighted of the war with the Promocaes, Cauquenes, imd Pencos, who were the nations that had withftood this invafion. As for the Indians, they pretended to no more than to defend their country, and their liberty, from foreign invaders ; and the Spaniards found themfelves called away by more earneft motives of intereft, and fo turned another way. Not but that there were different opinions about what was to be done ; fome thought that it was better to fettle where they were, the heavens and earth being both the beft that they had yet difcovered, and its riches fuch as they were witnelles of ; others ovalle's historical relation of chile. 167 others were of opinion to be content with what they had difcovered, without expofing themfelves to new dangers, and the accidents of war. But thofe who brought the King's commiffion, infifted extremely, that the Adelantado fliould go to enjoy the efFe6t of the King's favour to him ; and, above all, that which moved Almagro moft, was the jealoufy of feeing the Pizarros mafters of Peru : to which might be added, that if he did not take poflefTion of Cufco, by virtue of the King's patent, he might be in danger of remaining, at laft, without any title to any thing he had. In this confufion of motives, the Adelantado ftuck to the worft, as it happened, fmce he loft his life : he had, it feems, arrived to the top of fortune's wheel ; and it is the fame thing with her to fland llill, and to begin to go down ; which he did, till he tumbled quite to the ground, and had his head feparated from hi^fhoulders. The world feldom performs its promifes, otherwife who could have told this great and generous man, that he fliould fall by thofe hands to which he had lent his ? The Pizarros would not have been at that height, if the franknefs and friendlhip of Alma- gro had not aflifted them from the beginning with his fortune and good counfel ; but nothing of all this was fufficient to fave him from death by their procurement. The differences between them grew to that height, that they engaged in a battle againfl each other ; in which the Pizarros were conquerors, and Hernando Pizarro, the chief of them, ordered Almagro to be beheaded, being no ways touched by their antient friend- fhip, nor the fubmifTions and tears of Almagro himfelf, though a venei'able old man, begging his compafTion with a body full of honourable wounds ; but as if he had been a ftatue of marble or brafs, he fhewed no figns of compafTion. It is granted that Al- magro did ill, to leave the conqueft of Chile, fo well begun, and where he might have fettled himfelf and his friends to fuch advantage, to go back to Cufco, to govern there by force, in cafe the Pizarros fhould oppofe him ; but they alfo were much to be blamed, in not coming to Ibme agreement with their antient friend and companion ; but they are inexcufable in fhewing fo much cruelty, as to put him to death : accord- ingly all their own profperity feenied ta end with his, and to turn to a lamentable tragedy, in which they died by one another's hands, as may be feen more at large in the already cited authors. For me, it is my bufmefs to purfue the conqueft and fettle- ment of Chile, which is my theme. BOOK V. OF THE CONQUEST AND FOUNDATION OF THE KINGDOIVI OF CHILE. CHAP. I. — The Gover)ior Pedro Valdivia eyiters Chile : — He conquers and fettles that Kingdom, and is the jirji that enters as far as Mapocho. T^HE more I draw near to the relating the fettlement made in Chile by its firft found- ers and captains, who reduced that kingdom to the obedience of Their Catholic Majefties, and to the knowledge of God, ihe more I mifs thofe papers and records, which i68 ovalle's historical relation of chile. which being fo far off, I cannot have the help of in defcribing the particulars of the events which were very memorable at the firfl; entrance of the Spaniards. I mufl: there- fore make ufe of fuch paffages as I (hall find up and down in the general hiftories of the Indies ; and this will refrefli in me the memory of vhat I have feen or learned by others ; and yet I mufl ovwi the knowledge and information the reader will have from hence, will be but fcanty and fhort, fuch as I fhould have hardly attempted to publifh without this apology ; and defiring my readers to accept of this collection for the pre- fent, till the complete hiflory of Chile does come out, I having left men moft eminent in their profefTion employed in it when I left thofe parts. The Adelantado Almagro being returned in the year 1537 to Cufco, Colonel Pedro Valdivia defired from the Adelantado Francifco Pizrarro leave to purfue the conquefl; of Chile, fince he had power and commifTion from the King to grant it. He promifed not to return till he fhould have completed the fubjeftion of it, and reduced it to the obedience of the crown and God Almighty. The Adelantado, who had it in his thoughts, becaufe of the fame of its great riches, to follow the conquefl of Chile, confidering this gentleman to be one of the bravefl captains that had come to the Indies, having born arms in Italy and Peru, and given a very good account of all that he had undertaken, chofe him for this enterprize in the year 1539, giving him a year's time to prepare all things, that he might fet out, as he did, in the year 1540. I do not fay any thing of the particulars of his journey, nor of the people he carried with him, becaufe I am not where I can have a diflinft information ; only that in which all agree, is, that he got together a good body of men, both Spaniards and Indians ; for thefe lafl relating what riches the Ingas ufed to draw from people who owned his empire in thofe parts, animated every body to this enterprize ; and Valdivia feconding, with addrefs, thefe impreffions, made a good army, with which he fet out from Peru. They had almofl perifhed with cold, hunger, and other inconveniences ; yet at lafl they arrived, and advanced at firfl -with, little difficulty ; but as they went, engaging further in the country, flill they found more oppofition : they firfl came to the valley of Copiapo, which fignifies the feed of Torquoifes ; for there is a rock of them, of fo great a quantity, that they are grown lefs valuable upon it, as Herrera fays : it is a blue flone, which makes a very good fhew. And fince now we enter this kingdom with more advantage, and upon a fleady foot of fettlement, it will not be amifs to defcribe Ij the valleys and places where the cities were firfl founded, and the other fettlements, " that we may not be obliged to look back with an ufelefs repetition. The valley of Copiapo is the firfl of the inhabited valleys of Chile, though the befl part of the people are Indians, with a few Spaniards, out of which one is the Corrige- dor, who is named by the governor of Chile. The land is of itfelf very fruitful, and is made more fo by a pleafant river, which runs about twenty leagues in it before it empties itfelf into the fea in a bay which makes its harbour. Here grow all forts of the natural fruits and grains of the country, and of Europe ; the maize yields above three hundred for one, and the ears of it are almofl half a yard long, as Herrera and other authors relate. Though I am not informed as to the particular of Valdivia's reception here by the Indians, yet I fuppofe it was without much contradidion ; becaufe thefe people were already accuflomed to the foreign yoke of the Ingas, and had already feen and received the Spaniards out of refpeft to the Inga Paulo, who accompanied Almagro, who gave them their lawful Cacique, or prince, as we have feen. They had the fame facility in the valleys of Guafco, which is about five and twenty or thirty leagues from Copiapo, and that of Coquimbo Limari, and as far as Ouillota. Here the Indians took arms, and oppofed the Caflilians vigoroufly ; engaging them almofl daily, as people that ovalle's historical relation of chile. ' 169 that came to conquer and fubdue their courttry. The Governor Valdivia penetrated as far as the valley of Mapocho, though with the lofs of many of his men. He found this valley extremely well peopled, becaufe of its breadth, fertility, and pleafantnefs, being thoroughly watered by the river of that name, which, after having run fome leagues, finks under ground, does not lofe itfelf entirely, but appears more nobly, and comes out with a more powerful ftream two or three leagues further, being much bet- tered in its waters, which, from muddy, are turned clear as chryftal. CHAP. n. — The Foundation of the City of St.Jago in Mapocho. — The Defcription of its Situation. TOWARDS the eaft, the great Cordillera, or Snowy Mountain, is a wall to this valley of Mapocho, and is in winter all over white, but in fummer by fpots here and there : to the weft it has the ragged rocks of Poiiangue, Caren, and Lampa, whofe foot we may fay is Ihod with gold (for that which is found in its mines is fo fine, that a great deal was got out of them). Neither is this valley uncovered on the fides ; for to the north and fouth it is environed by other mountains, which, though they do not approach the Cordillera in height, yet are high enough to make a circle about this valley, which in feveral of its rocks produces gold : it is, in its diameter from the Cor- dillera to the hills of Poiiangue and Caren, five or fix good leagues, and from north to fouth, which is from the river Colima to that of Maypo, feven or eight leagues more ; fo that its circumference is between 26 and 28 leagues, or more, if we go down as far as Francifco del Monte, which is a place of moft pleafant fliady woods, where all the timber is cut for the building of the houfes. In this valley, two leagues from the great Cordillera, by the fide of the river Ma- pocho, God has planted a mountain of a beautiful afped and proportion, which is like a watch-tower, upon which the whole plain is difcovered at once with the variety of its culture in arable and meadow ; and in other places woods of a fort of oak upon the hills, which afford all the fuel neceffary for the ufes of life. At the foot of this moun- tain, which may be two miles about, the Caftilians found many habitations of the Indians, to the number of eighty thoufand, as authors report ; which Pedro de Valdi- via obferving, and gueffing from thence, that it was the beft part of the whole valley, he refolved to found here the city of St. Jago, which he began the 24th of February in the year 1641. It ftands in 34 degrees of latitude, and longitude jj, diftant from the meridian of Toledo 1980 leagues. The form and ground-plot of this city yields to few others, and is fuperior to moft of the old cities of Europe ; for it is regular, like a chefs-board, and in that fliape, and that which we call the fquares for the men, of black and white, are in the city called Ifles, with this difference, that fome of them are triangular, fome oval, fome round ; but the fquare ones are all of the fame make and bignefs, and are perfedly fquare : from whence it follows, that wherefoever a man ftands at any corner he fees four ftreets, according to the four parts of the heavens. Thefe fquares at firft were but of four large houfes, which were diftributed to the firft founders ; but now by time and fucceffion of inheritance, they have been divided into leffer, and are every day more and more divided ; fo that in every fquare there are many houfes. Towards the north, the city is watered by a pleafant river, till it fwells fometimes in winter, when it rains eight, nay twelve and fourteen days without ceafing ; for then it overflows, and does great mifchief in the city, carrying away whole houfes, of which vol. XIV. z the 170 ©valle's historical relation of CHUE. the ruins may be yet feen in fome places ; for this reafon, they have ralfed a flrong wall on that fide ; againfl; which, the river lofing its flrength, is thrown on the other fide, and the city thereby freed from this inundatfon. From this river is drawn an arm on the eaft fide, which being fubdivided into as many ftreams as there are fquares, enters into every one of them, and runs through alt the tranfverfal ftreets by a conduit or canal ; and bridges are every where, as ne- ceffity requires, for the paflage of carts : fo that all the houfes have a ftream of water, which cleanfes and carries with it all the fdth of the city : and from this difpofition of ■water, it is eafy to water or overflow all the ftreets in the heat of fummer, without the trouble of carts or other conveniences, and that without any charge. All thefe- rivulets empty themfelves to the weft, and are let into the grounds without the city, to water the gardens and vineyards that are there : which being done, it is let into other fields, fowed with all forts of grain, and then returns to the great river. I'he inhabit- ants do not drink of this water, though pretty good ; but it ferves to water horfes and other animals ; therefore they fetch water from the river for their own drinking, or draw it from wells, which yield very good, and very cool : thofe who are yet nicer iend to the fprings and fountains, of which there are many in the neighbourhood, whiciv yield moft excellent fweet water. The ftreets of this city are all of the fame bignefs and proportion, broad enough for three coaches to go abreaft eafily : they are paved on each fide near the houfes, and the middle is unpaved for the paflage of carts. There is one ftreet that is of an extraordinary breadth, and in it fifteen or fixteen coaches may go abreaft ; this is to the fouth, and runs eaft and weft the whole length of the- city : this is called La Cannada ; and though at firft it did not extend be)-ond the: city, yet now it does, and has many buildings and gardens ; and there is the church of St. Lazarus : but there are feveral fquares built further which inclofe in again, and fo' it is in a good fituation. This Cannada is the beft fituation of the whole place, where there is always an air ftirring, fo as the inhabitants in the greateft heats of fummer can fit at their doors, and enjoy the coo{ ; to which may be added the agreeable profpeft it affords, as well becaufe of the buftle of carts and coaches, as of a grove of willows which is watered by a little rivulet from one end of the ftreet to the other : it is befides adorned with a famous convent of St. Francis, the church of which is all of a white free-ftone, all fquare ftone finely cut, and a fteeple of the fame at one end of it, fo high, that it is feen a great way oft" by thofe who come from other parts. It is divided into three parts,, and has its galleries ; the uppermoft is a pyramid : from it one may difcover en* all fides lovely profpefts, which delight the eye extremely, and recreate the mind.- CHAF. UL — Of the other Edifices and Churches of the City of St.Jago. THIS city has f befid'e this ftreet called the Cannada, which might afford many places,i fiich as are in great cities) another very large one, named of St. Saturnino ; it has like-- wife the place of Sanfta Anna, where has been lately built a church dedicated to that' glorious faint. There is alfo a place called La Placera de la Compania de Jefus, where the front of their church makes a figure, and is a retreat or tabernacle upon the day of the proceflion of Corpus Chrifti. Moft of the other religious houfes have their places before the great porticos or entrances of their churches : but above all, is the place called the Principal Place, where all the bulinefs of law and commerce is driven. The two fides of the place that are eaft and fouth have buildings after the old way, though thcv ovalle's historical relation of chile. 171 they have made very good new balconies to them, and large windows, to fee the bull- feafts and other public cfiverfions which are made there. The north fide is all upon arches of brick ; underneath which are the fcriveners and public notaries, as alfo the fecretarifhips of the royal Audiencia, and the town-houfe : and ovei'-Iiead are ihe royal lodgings, with balconies to the place, with the great halls for the meeting of the town- houfe officers ; and in the middle are the audience-rooms of the royal chancery, with their galleries to the place : and, laftly, the royal apartments, where the royal officers are lodged ; and the rooms neceflary for the treafury and caamber of accounts, and lodgings for the officers. The fide that lies to the weft has in it, firft, the cathedral church, which is of three ifles, befides its chapels, which it has on each fide : it is all 01 a fine white Hone ; the chief ifle, or that of the middle, being upon arches and pillars of an airy and gallant architedure. The remainder of this fide to the corner is taken up with the epiTcopal palace, which has a very fine garden, and noble apartments both high and low, with a gallery fupported by pillars, which anfwer the Place ; which, if it were equally built on the eaft and fouth fides, would be one of the moft beautiful and agreeable places that can be ; for it is perfedly fquare, and very large, with a due regard to the whole plot of the city. I doubt not but in tiiue the two old-fafhioned fides will be pulled down, and others built on pillars and arches proportionably to the other fides. The greateft part of the buildings, (except the public ones, which are of a rough ftone, but very hard, which the mountain of Santa Lucia affords, and is within the city, and fome great gates and windows which are of mouldings of ftone or brick,) that is to fay, the ordinary buildings, are of earth and ftraw well beaten together, which is fo ftrong, that I have feen great openings made in a wall, to make great gates after the modern way, and yet the wall, though a very high one, not feel it, though the houfe was none of the neweft, but almoft as ancient as the city ; for the fun bakes and hardens the earth and ftraw fo well together, that I have feen a piece of thofe walls fall from a high place, and not break in pieces, though fo big that a man could not carry it. At prefentj the houfes that are built are of a better form, higher, and lighter than at firft, becaufe the firft conquerors were more intent upon getting gold, and fpending it in fumptuous treats, and high living, with fplendour and liberality, than in build- ing palaces, as they might have done, by reafon they had many hands, and ftone hard by. In matter of buildings, this city, as moft others of the Indies, may brag, that it imi- tated Solomon, who began with building the temple and houfe of God before he built ■his own palace. So the Spaniards have done all over the Indies, in this new world, inheriting this cuftom from their anceftors of Old Spain ; for I remember, that travel- ling in Caftilla, I made this obiervation, that let the place or village be never fo fmall, yet it has a good church ; and even where the houfes were poor, and like dove-coats, the churches were of free-ftone, with a fteeple of the fame ; which gave me matter of ■edification, confidering the piety of the faithful on this occafion. Juil fo the Spaniards of the Indies began firft to ere£l churches, with fo much appli- cation, that they do not feem buildings made vnthin thefe hundred years ; but rather fuch as one would think they had inherited from their anceftors, or had been built by the Gentiles ; and yet there is not a church in all the Indies, which they have not raifed from its foundation. We have already fpoke of the cathedral of St. Jago ; and much more might have been faid of its ftrength and beauty, and the ornament of its altai's and facrifty. There are befides feveral other fine churches. That of St. Domingo, though not of ftone, is built upon arches of brick, with a great many fine chapels on z 2 each 172 OVALLE S HISTOnrCAL RELATION OF CHILE. each fide, particularly that of Nueftra Sennora del Rofario, which is all painted and gilded, with handfome knots and fefloons. The facrifty is full of ornaments of brocade of gold and filver, and embroidered filks of the fame; a great deal of plate for the altar, and mouldings of the altar-piece, all gilded. But this is nothing to the cloifter, which by this time is made an end of, and is of a fine architefture, two ftories high ; and the lower, where the proceflion goes, is adorned with exquifite paintings in the four corners, where are four altars all gilded, and light as a bright flame : the apart- ment at the entrance is alfo finely fet off with pictures of faints of the order, of excellent hands. The convent of St. Francis may be called a town for its largenefs : it has two cloif- ters for the proceflions ; the firfl; is upon arches of brick ; and the fecond, which is the largeft, very finely painted, with the ftory of the life of the faint compared with paflages of our Saviour Jefus Chrift's life ; and over, are all the faints of the order ; and at each corner four great pictures, with four altars, which ferve for the processions and ceremonies of holidays. The church is of free-flone, and all its altars gilded on the infide ; but above all, the feats of the choir are a piece of rare workmanfliip : it is all of cyprefs, by which means there is always an admirable fmell. The firft row of feats reaches, with its crowning or ornaments, to the very roof, all of excellent architefture, with its mould- ings, bafes, cornifhes, and other proportions. The church of our Lady of the Mercede, is alfo built upon brick arches. The great chapel is admirable for the thicknefs of its wall, and the beauty of ceiling, which is all of cyprefs wood, in the form of a duomo, or cupola. The great cloifter is begun upon fo fine a model, that to finifli it fo, will require the care and application of thofe who have the government of that convent. The fituation of this convent is the fineft and nobleft of any, except that of St. Francis : it has the advantage of receiving the river firft, whereby water is fo plentiful in the convent, that they have been able to make two mills to grind corn enough for the convent, and to give away. The convent of St. Auguftin is but newly begun ; but its church, all of free-ftone, will outdo all the others for beauty : it is of three ifles, and in the midft of all the hurry and bufinefs of the town. It is not many years that the facred order of the blefled Juan de Dios has been fettled in this kingdom ; and in a little time thofe fathers have done a great deal ; for, having taken upon them the cstfe of the royal hofpitals, they have reformed them, aflifting the fick with all neatnefs, care, and diligence, and have added feveral large buildings. They are much helped in this by the devotion the people have for their founder, to whom they addrefs their prayers and vows in their wants and neceffities, and not in vain, for they feel great relief by his interceflion. The college of the company of Jefus has not been able to build the infide of the houfe, becaufe from their firlt foundation the fathers have attended only the finilTiing of the church ; which is now compaffed, and is without difpute the fineft next to the cathedral. It is all of a white ftone, the front of an excellent architefture, and over the cornifh a figure in relievo of a Jefus. The great chapel has its cupola and lanthorn all adorned with feftoons and knots of two forts of wood, white and red, which makes a beautiful ftiew. The covering or roof is all of cyprefs, inlaid with all forts of flower-work, and divided into five parts ; the middlemoft is a compofure of all forts of figures, which feem a labyrinth to thofe who fee it from the ground, and, with a noble cornifh that runs round, gives a delightful profpeQ. The ovalle's historical relation of chile. 173 The architefture of the altar, and the tabernacle for keeping the holy facrament, are valued at a prodigious fum. The altar rifes to the top of the church ; and becaufe, according to art, it ought to have reached from wall to wall, which it does not, the empty places are filled up with two reliquaries on each fide, which join to the altar : this being all gilded, feems, when one firft comes in, to be one plate of gold. CHAP. IV. — Of the Civil Government, both Ecclefmjiical and Secular, of the City of St. Jago ; and of the Nature and Properties of its Inhabitants. GOVERNMENT is the foul of the body politic ; and therefore, at the fame time that the city of St. Jago was founded, the corporation was fettled to adminifter juf- tice, without which no government can (land. The corporation confifts of two ordinary Alcaldes, an Alferes royal, an Alguazil mayor, a general Depofitarius, fix counfellors, or aldermen, chofen every year, half out of the gentlemen called Enco- menderos, and half out of the inhabitants of the place, who have bought that privilege for themfelves and their defcendants. Of the two Alcaldes, he that is of the Encomen- deros has the precedence and firft vote, and the inhabitant the other : they divide the year between them by fix months. There is a prefident to the aflembly, who is always corregidor, and lieutenant to the captain-general ; and it is a place of great honour : and though it be of more charge than profit, by reafon of the expence be- longing to it being unavoidable, yet it never fails of pretenders, becaufe of its authority, and the refpett paid to the office. There are chofen yearly, with the two Alcades, two others of the holy fraternity, or Hermandad, whofe jurifdidlion is without the bounds of the city, as is pradiifed in other parts. About thirty years ago there was founded a royal chancery in this city, which confifts of a prefident, four Oydores, or counfel- lors, and two fifcals ; one who is the ordinary, and another, who has been added within thefe four years, and has the fame honours, who has the protection of the Indians, and the matters belonging to the holy Cruzada. After thefe is the Alguazil mayor de Corte, who has alfo the magiftrate's habit, and a chair of ftate : then are the officers called the chancellor, fecretaries, referendaries, and others, as in fuch courts. There is no appeal from the fentence of review given in this court, but to the royal council of the Indies ; and then there is a certain fum, below which there is no appeal neither. It cannot be denied but ,the majefty of this tribunal has very much adorned the city ; though there want not thofe who lament the hindrance it has given to its riches and increafe, which would have been more confiderable, if the inhabitants had continued in their firft fimplicity, cloathing themfelves with the manu- fadtures of the country, and avoiding all thofe pompous liveries which are now in ufe ; for thofe who before might walk in the public place in a plain drefs of the country, and be honoured and refpected, muft now appear in filk, or Spanifh cloth, which yet is dearer than filk, for a yard of it cofts fometimes twenty pieces of eight. Any gentleman of eftate cannot now appear decently in public without many fervants in rich liveries ; and within a few years they have brought up a vanity of rich para- fols, umbrellas, which at firft were only ufed by the people of the greateft quality ; and now nobody is without them, but thofe who cannot compafs them ; and though it is a thing of great gravity, and very ufeful to preferve health, yet it increafes thofe forced expences ufed in great cities ; for this, and fome other reafons, fome were of opinion, that it would have been better for the city and kingdom, that they had con- tinued to govern themfelves without this court of a royal Audiencia, as they did for- ' 9 merly : 374 OVALLE*3 HISTORICAL RELATION" OF CHILE. merly : but, to fay truth, they are in the wrong ; fcr, firft, there are many cities in the Indies, where, without axourt of this nature, I have feen vanity thrive in liveries and fuperfluous expences as much as any where. Secondly, becaufe, abftrafting from paflion and intereft, which commonly do miflead men in the adminiftration of juftice, it cannot be denied but that the fovereign authority of this tribunal is of great weight to maintain the quiet of the kingdom, by keeping an even hand in the adminif- tration of juftice, and not fuffering that the tyranny fome afted, either by reafon of their preferments or riches, (hould ftifle right reafon, or opprefs innocency, which has not learned to court and flatter. Thus a royal Audiencia is a bridle to vice, a reward to virtue, a proteftion to the poor, and a maintenance of right and reafon ; and this was the intention of our catho- lic monarch : for this reafon did he erect this court, which is the more necelTary, becaufe it is at that diftance from the royal prefence, and fo hard that the cries of the poor fhould reach his ears ; for if fometimes they do arrive to his court, it is fo faintly, that they can fcarce be heard : for this reafon, thofe who have the chufmg and fending the king's officers into fuch remote parts, ought to be the more careful to provide men of chriitian principles, and well intentiohed, as indeed they have been, and are ftill in that kingdom ; and it is no more than is necefTary, for a good example to thofe new chriftians the Indians. This royal Audiencia is the caufe likewlfe, that much gentry comes from Europe to the Indies, and fo help to people them, and to continue the good intercourfe between Spain and that-country, which is good for both. It cannot likewife be denied (though that be but as an acceflbry), that the prefence and afliftance of this royal tribunal at all public feafts and exercifes, is of great countenance to them, and particularly to the literary ads and commencements, whereby learning is encouraged ; and thofe who employ themfelves in that honourable ftudy have a reward before their eyes, hoping to attain to be advocates, referendaries, fifcals, and counfellors : for in the Weft-Indies thofe places are all very honourable, and particularly in Chile, where the falaries are larger than in other parts, and yet provifions are cheaper ; fo that it is eafy to lay up a good part of one's revenue. Befides thefe tribunals, there are others, as. that of the chamber of accounts, or treafury, for the management and adminiftration of the King's revenue ; thefe officers do likewife vifit the ftiips that come in and out at the port of Valparifo ; their offices are v'ery honourable, and of great profit, and they are in the King's gift, as thofe of the royal Audiencia are. The afl^aixs of juftice, and things belonging to good government, are under the Au- diencia ; but tliofe of war and preferments belong to the governor, of whom we fliall fpeak in a proper place. The bifliop is abfolute lord of all the church-government ; and though the bifhopric of St. Jago is none of the richeft of the Indies, becaufe all the produd of the earth is fo cheap, and by confequence the tithes do not rife high, yet this very abun- dance is part of the riches of the bifhopric ; for by this means the bifhop's family and expences are the eafier fupplied, and he may keep more attendance, and yet lay up a good part of his revenue ; whereas other bifhoprics, though richer, have enough to do to keep up the decency of their dignity. There is a numerous clergy, who make a great cortege to the bifhop upon certain public days ; and when he is received the firft time, and takes pofl'efTion, the ceremony is very great ; for part of the royal Audi- encia, the chapters, all the militia, horfe and foot, with the people, go out to meet him J fo that it is a day of great pomp. The M OVALLE'S IirsTORICAL RELATIO.V OF CmZt. IJJ The chapter of the cathedral is a venerable body of men, in which the King alone provides the vacancies by virtue of his royal patronage, and the conceffion of the popes j fo that there is not, as in Spain, the bilhop or the pope's month ; but in the Indies all dignities of cathedrals, even to the very parifh priefts, are :Ul at the King's nomination, but with fome differences ; for the dignities are beftowed in Spain itfelf, by the advice of the council of the Indies ; but the cures or livings of parifh priefts, the King does beftow them by his governor or prefident, who expofes a public edidt, that all oppo- fers for the vacancy of fuch a benefice may come and oppofe the examination ; and of thefe, the bilhop prefents three to the governor general, to chufe in the King's name. The holy tribunal of the inquifition, which is in Lima, ferves for n.ll the whole South-America ; fo that in Chile there is only a commiflary, with his.officers and fami- liars, who accompany him in all public adls, and form a tribunal with great nuthority. There is likewife an officer of the Cruzada, called a ccmiviifary, which is likewife a poft of great authority ; and the day that the bull is publiOiLd, all the orders of the religious are bound to be at the proceffion. Let us conclude this chapter by faying fomething of the natives who are born and bred in this city : they are generally ingenious, and of good parts ; and thofe whofe inclination is to learning, fucceed very well ; but they are naturally more inclined to war, very few of them taking to other employments, either of trade or bufmefs j and they who, from their infancy, or by a flrong inclination, do not take to learning, feldom fucceed, and eafily leave it, if put upon it, to follow the found of a drum or a trumpet, and never are quiet till they get to be enrolled as foldiers, being much better pleafed with the liberty of a foldier's life, than with the difcipline of the fchools» They are much addicl:ed to horfemanfhip : and I have often feen, that to ftrengthen a child that can hardly go, the beft way is to fet him on horleback ; this makes thern, prove dexterous horfemen, and bold. And it is a common opinion and a known experi- ence, that for horfe, one of the country is better than four from abroad : this has been fufficiently proved in the courfe of fo long a war as that which has bufied that kingdom. They are naturally liberal, gqod-natiSed, and friendly, particularly if they are treated honourably, with due regard : they are pretty ftubborn and wilful ; to be led only by fair means, and then they are docile and traiStable ; but if force is ufed, they do worfe and worfe. This we the fathers of the fociety do often experience in our colleges ; fo we are obliged to lead them by fweeUiefe and emulation, rather than by rigour and harlhnefs. • CHAP. V. — 0/ the Riches, Militia, Studies, and tncreqfe of the Cky of St. Jago. THIS city, to which the King has given the title of iVIoft Noble arrd Loyal, is the capital city of Chile, and one of the beft in the Indies, next to thofe two royal ones of Lima and Mexico, which do exceed it in fumptuous edifices, in people and trade, becaufe they are more antient and nearer Spain, and for a greater paffage for the peo- ple that come from Europe, and free from the tumults of war, which is a canker that eats deepeft into great cides and kingdoms ; and it is no fmall proof of their force, to be able to maintain fo long a war. This city was founded one hundred and four years ago ; and it had all that while fuf- tained the heavy load of a long and ftubborn war, which the native Indians have made upon the Spaniards without any intermiffion j in which its inhabitants have either alwa.ys 17^ ovalle's historical relation of chile. always been in arms, or fending many horfes and provifion to the camp ; a calamity, ■which, far from letting it grow to what it is, ought to have kept it down from the beginning : nor is it of a fniall confideration, for the growth of other cities in the Indies, to refledl, that they being in the way, and, as it were, upon the paffage of other places, many new comers have fettled there, who perhaps at firfl: were bound for other countries, or at lead were indifferent where they ftayed, and took up with them. It is otherwife with the city of St. Jago, becaufe the kingdom of Chile being fo remote, and the laft of all the Spanifh dominions, it is the non plus ultra of the world : fo that nobody goes thither by chance, but on purpofe, and upon fome defign or particular intereft ; for which reafon the number of ftrangers is little. But the city is fo good and convenient to pafs away life vidth eafe, that notwithfland- ing thefe difadvantages, it is fo encreafed, that it aftonilhes all who fee it, few cities of the Indies outdoing it in finery, particularly as to the women (it were to be wifhed it were not to that excefsj ; for all things coming from Europe are there prodigioufly dear ; and this caufes many families to run behind hand. Who fhould fee the place of St. Jago, and that of Madrid, could fee no difference as to this point ; nay, as to the women, the finery exceeds that of Madrid ; for the Spanifh women, fcorning to go to fervice, are all ladies, and love to appear as fuch, as much as they can, and the emu- lation between them about fine clothes, jewels, and other ornaments for themfelves and their fervants, is fuch, that let their hufhands be never fo rich they want all they have, particularly if they are of the nobility, to fatisfy the pride of the women. As to the militia of the city, the firfl part of it is the company of inhabitants, Enco- menderos, and reformed captains, who have no other commander but the governor himfelf, or his deputy ; after that, there are two or three troops of horfe, and three or four companies of foot, all Spaniards. Thefe often mufler on holidays, and are exercifed in the ufe of their arms ; and fometimes there are general mufters before the Oydores and royal officers, where their arms are examined ; who alfo note them down, to know what ftrength they can raife upon occafion, punifhing fuch as do not keep their arms and horfes fit for fervice. By this diligence they are very ready at their arms, and the exercifing of them proves an entertainment for them and the whole city : for very often, in the public proceffions, one or two of thefe companies ufe to come out, and make a falvo for them ; and in the holy week there always attend a troop of horfe, and a company of foot, who guard the llreet, where the procefTions of the whippers go to keep the peace, becaufe of the Indians, who ufe to take that time to make fome rifmgs, the Spaniards being wholly taken up with their devotions. The days in which this militia makes the beft fhow, are, when the bifliops come to be received, becaufe they make a -lane from the entrance of the city to the great place of it, where they form theii* battalion ; and the concourfe of the people ufes to be fo great, that though the place is very large, there is fcarce room for them. And fmce we are upon that fubjeft, we cannot omit to obferve that which is wor- thy of admiration, and that is, to fee how it is increafed in the number of Spaniards within thefe forty years. It is probable, the fame has happened to the other cities of the Indies ; but this has had a continual drain, by fupplying foldiers for the war with the Indians, where many perifh, and few return. I remember that I have heard fay, that one of our fathers, newly come from Europe, and coming to our college, where he faw but few people in the ftreet, cried out. Apparent rari naiites in gurgite vaflo. By ovalle's historical relation of chile. 177 By which he meant to fignlfy, the difproportion of the mhabitants to the bignefs of the city ; but now that very ftreet is lb full of people, that all hours of the day, and fonie of the night, it is extremely frequented ; for there have been built many houfes for handicraftsmen and ihopkeepers on both fides of it, becaufe trade is confi- derably increafed. I can myfelf affirm, that I obferved as great an alteration in a much lefs time, as well in people as in building ; for having been abfent but eight years, I confefs, that at my return I fcarcely knew the place again ; for I found feveral ground-fpots where there was not a houfe built upon, with very good buildings ; and thofe which I had left built were altered to the better, with more and higher apartments ; and the courts, which were very large, were confiderably ftraightened by other buildings ; and yet the plot of the city was larger too ; fo that being at firfl: built at the foot of the mountain we have fpoken of, to the weft of it, I found it extended as much to the eaft, and the fame proportionably to the fouth and north, and it increafes daily towards the river, and the Cannada. There was, when I left the phce, about a dozen fhops of good retailers, and at my return there were above fifty ; and the fame proportionably as to the fliops of Ihoe- makers, taylors, carpenters, fmiths, goldfmiths, and other handicraftfmen, whom I found alfo more curious and exafl; in their profeffions ; and emulation has produced very good pieces of workmanfhip in gold and filver, and carvings in wood, gildings, paintings, w'hich have adorned the churches, with thofe which have been brought from Europe, and the particular houfes ; fo that in fome houfes alone, there are more things of that kind now, than there were in all the city formerly. Some complain, that there are not now fuch rich and powerful men as there were at firft ; and that is true : but It does not follow, that the generality is the worfe for that, but rather otherwife ; for the lands and houfes which belong now to ten families were antiently in one ; it being certain that feveral of the heirs of that man have attained to as great riches as he himfelf had ; or at leaft it is apparent, that the ftock of all thofe who have (hared the inheritance far exceeds what was left them : fo that fuppofing that fome were formerly richer, yet the riches are more in the land ; which is alfo clear to any that fhall confider the houfes, pofleffions, and other improvements made fince that time ; for now there is fcarcely room for the people, whereas before there was not half people for the room that was for them ; which is alfo vifible in the country round about, where farms that could hardly find purchafers, and were little worth, are now fo rifen in their value, that the fmalleft coft great funis ; and this rage of purchafing is fuch, that moft of the caufes in the royal Audiencia are about titles ; for the antients, who took pofleilion of the land, thought, that if they had a little footing in a valley, it was all theirs ; but thofe who have come fince, have purchafed by virtue of new titles, and taken new poffeffion ; whieh makes fo many law-fuits. There is not formed a regular univerfity in this city, becaufe that of Lima ferved for all the neighbouring kingdoms and provinces to take their degrees : but when in time the going to Lima was found fo chargeable, and the journey, which is of three or four hundred leagues, fo troublefome, there were bulls obtained of the pope, for the orders of St. Dominic and the Jefuits, to have the privilege of conferring the de- «[rees of batchelor, licentiate of arts, as alfo doctors in divinity, in the kingdoms of Chile, Granada, Ruito, Chuquizago, Tucuman, and Paraguay. The effeft has fhewed how neceflary this favour, and how important this privilege has been ; for this incitement to honour has caufed a general application to learning ; for the prlefi:s and curates are already great proficients in ftudy, and fo more capable VOL. XIV. A A of J78 ovalle's historical relation of chile. of taking upon them the cure of fouls ; and thofe who betake themfelves to a reli- gious Hfe, are better qualified to ferve their orders, and be an honour to them, as many of them are ; and it does not a little contribute to the value of them, to fee the great foleninity ufed at the reception of the feveral graduates. And in this, as well as the reft, I think our city of St.Jago is not inferior to any : for, firft, all the adts are held with great concourfe of all the learned, and very often the bifhop honours them with his prclence, and fo do the prefident of the Audiencia, and the chief of the town-government, to whom are dedicated the fubjetts of the extempore readings, according to the conftitutiou ot the univerfity, which are given out with great fidelitv, dividing the fubjeft into three parts, for the graduate to difpute upon in prefence of a great concourfe of people ; and the feverity is indif- penfable in this and all other examinations, for the different degrees which are given by the bifliop, by virtue of an approbation firft given him by the father rector and the profeffors, as the bull directs ; according to which there is no obligation of giving any treat ; but yet that the doctors may afiiil with more pleafure and dili- gence, there has been introduced a cuftom of giving fome moderate ones, befides gloves, which were allowed inftead of it ; but fome out of oftentation give botk treat and gloves. Befides this, there has been introduced a cuitom of inviting the horfe of the city to honour the proceflion, which make the folemnity the more confpicuous ; and they very willingly accept of the invitation, for they are very ready to mount on horfeback to honour any, much more thofe who diftinguifh themfelves by the exercifes of virtue and learning. CHAP. VI. — Of the Worjhip of God, and the Church Ceremonies in the City of St, Jago. IF we were to make a judgment of this city by the worfhip of God that is per- formed in it, and the appearance of the clergy, we Ihould judge it to be much bigger than it is ; for the ftate and expence with which the holidays are kept, in the charge of mufick, perfumes, wax, and other ornaments, are very great : let us give fome particular inftances, and begin with the cathedral. I cannot but commend the piety of thofe eminent perfons, the bifhop, prefident, and counfellors of the royal Au- diencia, who taking each of them a day during the oftave of the holy facrament are at the whole expence of that day, and that is very confiderable ; for all the wax and perfumes are very dear, as coming from Europe ; and the holy emulation that is between them, increafes the fplendour of the day ; fo that during that octave, the church is fo perfumed, that its fragrancy is fmelt fome diftance from it. The procellion of the firft and eighth day are upon the account of the chapter, as the hanging of the ftreets, and creeling of altars for repofitories, are at the charge of the inhabitants where the procefiion palTes : this proceffion is attended by all the convents, and all the companies of trades, with their banners and ftags, fo that it reaches a great way. After this of the cathedral come every day new ones of all the convents, fo that they laft a month, every one endeavouring to have theirs the belt ; by which means there are great variety of ornamental inventions and machines. The Indians of the neigh- bourhood, that live in the Chagras, that is, liitle cottages, within fome miles of the city, attend likewife with their banners : and they chule for this purpofe a leader who makes the expence, and treats thofe of his company : their numbers are fo great, and the noife they make fo loud, with their flutes, and their hollowing and finging, j \ that ovalle's historical relation of chile. 179 that they are placed in the' front, or elfe there would be no hearing the church mufic, nor any means of underflanding one another about the government of the proceffion. The other feafts and holidays in the year are proportionably folemnized with the fame decency by all the orders of friars, who all of them have fome devout perfons who help to bear the charge. But the nuns exceed all the reft in ornaments ; and thefe nunneries are fo populous, that in that of St. Auftin alone there are above five hundred perfons, whereof three hundred are veiled nuns, the reft are lay-fifters ; and becaufe the nunnery being full, there can be no more received, but with great difficulty, the other nunnery of Sanda Clara receives fo many every day, that in a little time it will equal the other in number, as it does already in the pomp and ornament of its church-fervice ; that which thefe angels of Heaven, (for fo we may juftly call thofe who with fo much piety and anxiety do ferve God continually, and are as a wall of defence to the city,) that which they do moft fliine in, can hardly be expreffed as to the neatnefs, curiofity, and richnefs of their altars, and the church-ornaments. What fhall I fay of the fmells, artificial flowers, fruits, chocolates, paftillos, and perfuming pots, which I have feen fometimes of fo great a fize, that they ftruck me with admiration, confidering the matter they are made of, which is of a refined fugar, as white as fnow, fometimes in form of a caftle, fometimes of a candleftick, or a pyramid moft exquifitely wrought. They are not content with this ; for I have fometimes feen the whole grate of the choir, and the joiners' work, and beams of the church, all covered with preferved citron, in form of funs or angels of mezzo relievo, and a thoufand other inventions, which I ftiould never have done, if I ftiould report them all. I muft only fay, that the generofity of thofe ladies is fuch, that though this cofts very much, yet I have often feen them, at the end of a mafs, diftribute all thofe things to thofe who happen to be in the church, without keeping it for themfelves : they do not only do this within the church, but the altars which are fet up in their cloifters, and ftreets near them ; for the proceffions are adorned, after the fame manner, with fruits and flowers of the fame materials, fo well imitated, that they appear new-gathered. The monafteries of men are not fo well filled as thofe of the nuns, though fome have a hundred, others fixty or feventy friars. The fecular clergy is alfo very nu- merous, very virtuous, and learned. Since I came away, there has been founded an- other nunnery of about thirty nuns, who will need no portion, being provided for by a gentleman who left all his eltate to that foundation ; it was Captain Alonfo del Campo Lantadilla, Alguazil mayor of that city, which will be of great fervice to help the pro- viding for poor maids, who, perhaps, elfe would not find it eafy any other way. CHAP. VII. — hi which is treated of the ProceJJiom of the Holy Week in the City of St. Jago. LET us conclude this matter of religion and pious exercifes with faying fomething of the moft remarkable practice of it in the holy week, by the ftatelinefs of the procef- fions at that time ; which is fuch, that all ftrangers confefs, that if they had not feen it, they fliould hardly have believed it. Thefe proceflions begin on the Tuefday in the Jioly week, to which the company of the IVIorenos, which is founded in our college, give a beginning, (of which we ftiall fpeak more when we treat of its employments, as alfo of the brotherhood or confrary of the Indians, on the morning of Eafter-day.) The procefllon that follows next, is that which comes out of the convent of St, Auftin, A A 2 in i8o ovalle's histokical kelation of chile. in which is founded the confrary of the Mulattos : they go all covered with black frocks, and have many paflages of the paffion fung very devoutly, with the beft niufic of the place, and many lighted torches. The Wednefday the famous proceflion of the confrary of the Nazarenos fets out, which is all of natural Spaniards, of feveral arts and profeffions, and is founded in the royal convent of Nueftra Sennora de la Mercede ; and it is one of the richeft and moft adorned proceffions. This proceiTion is divided into three troops : the firfl of which carries La Veronica to the cathedral, where it (lays to meet the fecond, in which conies the Redeemer with his crofs, fo heavy, that he is forced to kneel often. "When this fecond, which is the largeft, comes to the great place, that which (laid at the cathedral goes to meet them ; and at a certain diftance, in Tight of a vaft multi- tude of people, the Veronica comes, and kneeling down to the image of Chrift, which is a very large one, feemingly wipes his face, and then Ihews the people the reprefent- ation of it remaining in the handkerchief ; and then, as they begin to march, there appears the third proceflion, in which comes St. John, Ihewing the Virgin Mary that dolorous fpeftacle : fo that by all thefe there is formed a mighty proceflion, with many lighted torches, and all the brothers are clothed in their red frocks, marching with great filence and devotion. There is another reprefentation of great piety, which is performed in the convent of St. Francis, and in this convent ; which is the parting of Chrift and his mother, which ufes to caufe great paflion and many tears, becaufe of the naturalnefs with which it is aded. On the Thurfday there are very curious fepulchres erefted, and many alms given to the poor ; and though in the foregoing proceflions, and on the Fridays in Lent, there are to be feen fome people whipping themfelves, with divers forts of penances, which every one performs according to his own devotion, yet the proceflions, which by excel- lency are called the bloody proceflions, are performed this night. One of them fets out from the chapel of the true crofs, which is in the convent and chapel of Nuefl:ra Sennora de la Mercede, and is only of the inhabitants and gentlemen, who go all covered over with black frocks ; and he who carries the crofs is obliged (befides the collation which he provides for the preacher, and the mufic, and which ufes to be very magnificent) to provide alfo men to attend the proceflion, and relieve the whij^pers, who often draw fo much blood, that they faint away ; and others take care to cut off of the difciplines fome of the fpurs of them, for they ufe to have fo many on, that they almofl: kill themfelves, nay, I have feen fome of fo indifcreet a zeal, that they ufed certain buttons with points fo fliarp, that if they were let alone, it is a difpute whether they would not die before the end of the proceilion. Before this go alfo two others, both of them bloody proceflions ; one of the Indians, and it is that has mofl; whippers ; the other comes from St. Domingo, and is of the Morenos : they both have mufic ; and the communities of all the convents go to meet them when they come near their churches with torches in their hands. They fpend a great deal of time in their procef- fion, and are accompanied by an infinite number of people. On the holy Friday there are two proceflions more that go out of St. Domingo and St. Francifco, both of natural Spaniards. That of Sando Domingo is called the pro- ceflion of pity, and has been begun but lately ; but it has made fuch progrefs, that it equals the mofl: ancient : they carry all the marks of the paflion by fo many drefl'ed up like angels very richly, and each ot them is attended by two brothers of the proceflion with lights, and their coats of yellow. The other proceflion, which comes from St. Francifco, is tlie autientefl:, and has always been the beft : it is mightily commended fpr the great filence and devotion with which it is performed ; for there is not a word fpoke OVALLe's historical relation of CHILB. l8l fpoke in it from its going out to its returning. Before it goes, there is performed the defcent of the crofs before a great concourfe of people. This has always been an action of great piety, and very moving. The enfigns, or marks of the paffion, go out in order ; and when they come, there is another reprefentation very tenderly made in the Cannada : there is a great crofs fet up ; and when the image of the virgin comes up to it, it lifts up its eyes, as one who miffes the fovereign good that hung on it, and, drawing out a white handkerchief, applies it to the eyes, as crying, and then opening the arms, embraces the crofs, and kneeling kiffes the foot of it once or twice : all this it does fo dexteroufly, and becomingly, that one would fwear it were a living creature : and this aftion being accompanied with the mufic of the day, proportioned to the grief of the myftery, it is incredible what effeds it has upon the people, who crowd one upon another to fee it. On the Saturday, and on Ealler-day in the morning, there are other proceffions. The firft comes out of St. Domingo, and is of the gentlemen and citizens, who in this are clothed in white, of mofi: rich cloth of filver or filk, finely garnifhed vwth jewels and chains of gold. The ceremony of the refun-eftion is celebrated by night in the cloif- ter ; and, for that end, there is fuch an illumination, that it feems day. The pro- ceflion goes out very noble and gay, and in it are many lights, mufic, and dances, the ftreets being all adorned with triumphal arches, and hung with tapeftries ; and while this proceflion is in the cathedral, celebrating the mafs, and communicating the hoft to the brothers, there comes another to the great place to meet it, another from the col- lege of the Jefuits, which is a confrary of Indians, the moft antient of the city, con- fifting of a company of Indians of both fexes, who, with torches in their hands, accom- pany the child Jefus drefled up after the Indian falhion, (which caufes great concern and devotion") : they have alfo many colours, enfigns, and other ornaments, very rich and gay. At the fame time, two other proceffions of Indians likewife fet out from the con- vents of St. Francis and Nueflra Sennora de le Mercede, and another of Morenos from St. Domingo, all with a great apparatus of drums, trumpets, colours, hautboys, dances, which make that morning appear very gay and merry ; and that it may be fo to our Saviour refufcitated, they all communicate, and give a happy Eafter to the Divine Majefty and all heaven, to which the earth can never pay a greater tribute than by the converfion of finners, particularly of thefe new Chriftians, whofe anceftors adored but the other day their idols ; and now they acknowledge, and kneel before the true God, fit with him at his table, as grandees of his court ; they, who not long before were flaves of the devil. CHAP. VIII. — Of fame other Holidays of the City of Stjago. ONE of the things in which the greatnefs of a city fliews itfelf moft is, in its feafts, holidays, and public entertainments : we will touch a little on thofe of St.Jago; and, befides the fecular ones of bull-feafts, running at the ring, Juego de Cannas, tourna- ments, illuminations, and other diverfions in which this city fhines, it is wonderful how well there are celebrated the public rejoicings for the birth or marriage of their prince, in univerfal canonizations of faints, and in all other folemnities, but particularly thofe ordered by His Majefty, as that was about thirty years ago, when His Majefty, out of his great piety, ordered, in honour of the queen of angels, that the myftery of her holy imma- culate conception ftiould be celebrated in all his kingdoms, as well by the feculars, as by the churchmen ; and the firft indeed need no incitement in this matter, every one being i82 ovalle's historical relation of chile. being ready to fliew their acknowledgments to this fovereign queen of heaven, who has favoured more particularly the kingdom of Chile with her proteftion from the beginning. Let us now fay what the city of St. Jago did upon this occafion, that the affeftion with which the inhabitants correfpond to what they owe to this illuftrious queen of heaven may be numifelled, and iome proof given ot what they can do on fuch occa- fions : and letting alone what was done by all the convents and monafteries, I come to other particulars, to which three poetical contefts gave rife : thefe were publifhed folemnly on horfeback through the town, with the company of the town magiftrates, and all the gentry, without exception. The firft of thefe troops were defrayed by the cathedral, the fecond by the celebrated monaftery of the Conception, the third by the congregation of iludents founded in our college ; and in all thefe there were prizes propofed of great value for the poets ; and thofe who obtained them, had them given to them with great folemnity ; and there were feveral reprefentations, with other diverfions, according to the cuftom of that country. And, fnice we are fpeaking of what happened in thofe holy feafts, let us not forget as remarkable a pafl'age as any : the day which it fell to the lot of our college to cele- brate its feaft, the father provincial, who was to preach before mafs, felt himfelf fo moved witli love and devotion to the fovereign virgin, that, in a fit of extraordinary zeal, he invited the people to come after dinner to the proceffion of our church, and to fmg before the image of our lady, that ballad which was in thofe days fo famous, and begins — AU the world in general Says fo, chofen queen of heaven, That you are conceived even Without fin original. The auditory was much edified with the piety of the good father, but fmiled at his propofal as impradicable ; yet they all came at the hour, mofl: out of curiofity to fee the event of this novelty : they all took olive-branches in their hands, and began the procelhon while our fathers fung the ftanzas. It was wonderful, that the fame fpirit which moved the father to fuch an extraordinary invitation, moved alfo all the people to fing before the image of our lady, which they carried thus to the cathedral ; out of which the clergy coming to meet, and finging the church-hymns, the noife of the others finging was fo great, that the canons were forced to give over, and accompany the people in their ftanzas, finging altogether like fo many children. They looked one another in the face, admiring at what they were doing, being fcarcely able to believe ; and if I myfelf had not feen it, knowing, as I do, the natural gravity of that people, I fhould not have believed it neither ; but the inward force of devotion can do any thing, when the Lord of hearts makes ufe of it to exalt the immaculate purenefs of his mother. The rejoicings and entertainments upon this occafion lafted many days ; one of them fell to the lot of the congregation of natural Spaniards founded in our college, who made a very ingenious and coflly mafquerade, reprefenting all the nations of the world, with their kings and princes all clothed after their own fafhion, with their attendants, and laft of all the pope, to whom each nation came with its king, to defire his holinefs to fiivour this myflery. The liveries were very coflly, and there was a triumphal chariot, a great machine, in which was reprefcntcd the church: but that which was mofl ovalle's historical relation of chile. 183 mofl chargeable was the wax, which is very dear there ; and this entertainment was given by night. The other days were divided among the Negroes and Indians of all arts and profef- fions, who having a pious emulation to each other, made many rare inventions ; but the merchants carried the belle in a tournament, which they performed in the great Place, each adventurer coming either out of a fea, or a wood, or an enchanted caftle, with his paper or challenge, adling their parts very well : they broke their lances, and received their prizes, which are things of great value. The gentlemen of the city crowned the feaft with their ufual diverilons of bull-feafts, running at the ring Juego de Cannas, &c. There are generally about twenty or thirty horfemen to attack the bulls, and throw the rejous or lances at them, befides him who flrikes the bull dead. The illuminations of torches, with which they ufe to run about all night, are alfo of great diverfion ; and upon this occafion they did it with rich liveries, and other chargeable expences, for the greater folemnity of- the time. The ordinary and annual rejoicings which are obferved on Midfummer, on St. John's day, St. James's, and the Nativity of our Lady, are alfo worth feeing, particularly oa the day of St. Jago, who is the patron of the city ; for then the royal enfign of the crown brings out the great ftandard of conquefl, with the king's arms, and is accom- panied by all the gentry, who are obliged to appear on that occafion^ which, they do very glorioufly. There happen likewife fome marriages or chriltenings of the people of beft fafhioni, in which they make as good a fhew as their eftates will let them, and often above their abilities. In the bull-feafts, thofe who undertake them ufe to treat the royal Audiencia-, and other bodies corporate ; but in marriages they are profufe, for the prefents to tha bride have been brought in falhion to be vei-y rich, fuch as flaves, carpets, fcrutores filled with gold and jewels, and other curiofities of great value. There is not lefs fpent in treats and banquets, particularly of late years, that they have taken to counterfeiting natural fruits, and other things, which ferve for the fideboard ; fo that, after a man has given a treat of all forts of birds and fifties, his entertainment is not gallant enough, if he does not add a defert of preferved citrons in all figures of love-knots, &c. and the other fruits imitated after nature : thefe they mingle on the cloth, with the figures of ewers, falt-cellers, jars, falvers, diilies, fpoons, forks, knives, all made of citron, covered with leaves of gold and filver ; and the firft thing the guefts do, when they fit down, is to plunder the table of thefe, for there are real ones of gold and filver for the banquet. All this cofts extremely, becaufe the fugar comes from Peru, and the nianufafture of all thefe curiofities is very dear ; many are the guefts ; and, befides the wedding- dinner, the fathers give another the next day as fumptuous. This is what nobody of fafhion can help doing. I have heard formerly, that firft there were gentlemen, wha, upon any of thefe public rejoicings, would do it all at their own charges, giving them all liveries of velvet, at the running of the ring for example ; and yet then velvet was twice as dear as it is novi'. But at prefent that is left off, though, they make expences equivalent in collations, bonfires, and other contrivances of great fhew ; for, upon thefe occafions, they all think themfelves rich enough, which is a great? ruin to families, every one ftraining, out of vanity, to equal another, though the difference in riches ba very great. And now let us leave St. Jago, which has detained us more than ordinary, to l\\>- tisfy the curiofity of thofe who are defirous to know the increafe and progrefs of tha cities and colonies of that new world, and how the chrillian cuftoms and governmeni have- 184 ovalle's historical relation of chile. have begun to flourifh in it ; and by this effay a judgment may be made of thofe fettlements. I pafs on to the particulars of the conqueft of that kingdom, that I may afterwards give an account of the progrefs of the chriflian faith, and the great hopes there is of its greater propagation. CHAP. IX. — The Governor Pedro de Valdivia purfues his Conquejl. — The Gold Mines are begun to be wrought.- — He fends Proofs of their Riches to Peru ; from whence the General Juan Baptijie Pajiene brings him the firfi Succours. THE Governor Pedro de Valdivia having founded the city of St. Jago, began to hink of fortifying himfelf in that poft, to defend himfelf againfl the fury of the In- dians, with whom he was every day engaged ; and many men were loft on both fides, fo that his men began to be uneafy, and talk of going back to Peru, as Almagro had done ; for though they faw the richnefs of the country, yet it appeared to them dearly bought, fince they could not get any of it without running great hazards by the many engagements that they had with the enemy ; fo that they gave their lives for gone. The Governor Pedro de Valdivia was not ignorant of the difBculty of his enterprize ; but yet encouraged by the hopes of fuccefs, at laft he refolved rather to die than give it over ; and being an experienced foldier, bred in the wars of Europe, he refolved to raife a fort for the defence of his men, being convinced of the bravery of the enemy he had to do with ; and though he was informed -of a general rifing, which the Indians defigned, he fent feventy men to make an incurfion towards the river of Cachapoal. The Indians taking the opportunity of the abfence of thefe men, attacked the fort, and had gained it if the Spaniards had not fhewed incredible valour in the defence of it till the other men returned ; and by their affiftance they repulfed the Indians, and remained conquerors. The governor made good ufe of this advantage, both with the Indians and his own men ; fo that having quieted them, he began to work upon the mines of Ouillota, which were of great fame : they proved fo rich, and yeilded fuch a quantity of gold, that he thought it advifeable to make a fort there for the fecurity of his men ; but finding want of hands, by the lofles he had had, he refolved to fend to Peru for relief. This he put in execution, giving at the fame time an account of the richnefs and fruit- fulnefs of the country, to incite people ; and becaufe ocular teftimony perfuades more than what we only hear of, hetrufted fix men, whom he fent along with thirty others, to have a great deal of gold with them, caufmg befides the ftirrups of their horfes, and all that is employed of iron work about the bridles and faddles, to be made of maffy gold, making the ftirrups very gr^at and large on purpofe. But all this defign was difappointed ; for thefe men, who were thus gilded like funs, were, when they came to the valley of Copiapo, fallen upon by the Indians, and all periftied but two, who were Pedro de Miranda, andJMonroy, officers, who got away by the help of their horfes ; but being purfued by the Indians through moimtainous ways, and their horfes tiring, they were taken by an Indian captain, called Cateo, who had a company of archers : they tied their hands behind them, and carried them to their Cacique, who defigned to put them to death. This Cacique was married to the heirefs of all this valley (for there inheritances follow the women, for greater fecurity of the right line), and when thefe two were expefling nothing but the blow of death, it pleafed God to infpire the Cacica, or Cacique's lady, with compaffion ; and fo fhe went herfelf, and with her own hands I if untied ovalle's historical relation of chile. 185 untied theirs, commanding their wounds to be dreffed, and treating them with feme of their drinks, which fhe herfelf prefented to them, having drank firft herfelf, according to their cuftom, and bid them take courage, for they fhould not die. They feeing them- felves brought, as it were, from death to life, threw themfelves at her feet, and dedi- cated themfelves to her as voluntary flaves, fince by her favour they enjoyed a life which they gave for loft. The captain, who had taken them, feeing his Princefs and Sovereign Ihew them fo much favour, came to them, and bid them be confident of their lives, for that their lady having commanded they Ihould not be killed, there was not any one bold enough to look awry upon them : they were kept fix months in this captivity ; and though it was fo gentle, by the kind ufage they met with, yet the natural defire of liberty, and the hopes of returning to their friends, ftill worked with them. Let no man think himfelf fecure that has his enemy within his own doors, nor let him truft his prifoner, though yielded up to his difcretion ; for let him be ufed as well as can be, yet there is no happinefs like being his own man, and enjoying his liberty. This thought continually took up the minds of thefe two captains, fo they laid a plot how to make their efcape. They had obferved in the Cacique a curiofity for horfes, which were creatures fo new to thofe Indian countries ; they perfuaded him to iearn to ride, and manage a horfe. He liked the propofal, and began to exercife himfelf in this genteel amufement, carrying with him neverthelefs always his guard of archers, with an Indian before with a lance upon his flioulder, and another behind, with a naked fword in his hand, more out of grandeur than diftruft ; for he had no fufpicion of their plot, which was, to take an opportunity when he rid out to fall upon him, and kill him, as they did ; for Captain Monroy, with an extraordinary intrepidity, without re- flefting on the guard that attended him, attacked the Cacique, and Captain Miranda the reft, with fo much fuddennefs, that they made themfelves mafters of the lance and fword ; and beftirring themfelves courageoufly, they wounded and difmounted the Cacique ; fo that he died of his wounds in fome months. Having gained the horfes, they faved themfelves upon them ; and not being purfued in that diforder, they overcame all the difficulties of thofe folitudes, and arrived at Peru fafe ; where at that time they found the government in the hands of the Licenciado Vaca de Caftro. Thefe two captains were gentlemen of great families ; and to this day the Mirandas in Chile are of the flower of the nobility of that kingdom. As for the Monroys, they are fo known in Caftile, particularly about Salamanca, that it is needlefs to fay more of them. They were very well received by His Excellency, for the good news they brought of that difcovery and conqueft, of the pleafantnefs of the country, and richnefs of its mines ; and upon this relation, as Antonio de Herrera and other authors fay, it was refolved to further this conqueft, which feemed to be of fuch high im- portance, and to chufe out fome fit perfon, and accompany him with foldiers, arms, ammunition, and cloathing for the foldiers, who were almoft naked. He chofe for thL<; employment Captain John BapliftePaftene, a gentleman of the moft antlent and illuftrious houfe of Paftenes in Genoa ; which family is at prefent extindt in that republick, and remains only in its records, where many of that name are in the books of the nobility, and among the greateft dignities of the ftate. This gentleman engaged in the conqueft of the new world by the fame defire of glory which moved others, and to mend his fortune. He happening then to be in Peru, the viceroy took hold of the occafion to employ him for the King's fervice ; which this gentleman accepted, and performed, going for Chile, where he arrived with fuccours which that kingdom flood in fo great need of. VOL. XIV. B B This i86 ovalle's historical relation of chile. This relief was received with great joy, as being in the beginning of the enterprize, and extremely wanted, the foldiers being much fatigued and weakened with the con- tinual aflaults of their enemies, without any other defence than their fort ofSt.Jago, where they had enough to do to fhelter themfelves from their valour and fierce at- tack ; but the arrival of thefe fuccours gave them new courage, and refolution to profe- cute their enterprize. To undertake it with more regularity, and prevent what accidents might happen from the fea, the governor fent Paftene with the title of lieutenant-general in his own fhip, to difcover the coafl as far as the flraights of Magellan, as he did ; and it appears by the letters of Their Catholick Majellies, Philip II. and his fon Philip III. how agreeable this piece of fervice was to them. About this time the mines of Quillota being working with great profit, and Don Gon9ales de los Rios being captain-governor of the work, the Indians brought him a full pot of great grains of gold, for a Ihew of a great deal which they faid they had found in a certain place. There they had laid an ambufcade of feveral of their beft men, to fall upon fuch as, blinded with covetoufnefs, fhould go to feek this treafure. This happened accord- ingly, for they all run prefently to the place ; for there is no alarm never fo warm, that rouzes better than this defire of growing rich at once did them : but they were much miftaken ; for inftead of gold, they met with the iron of their enemies' lances, who killed them all but their captain and a Negroe, who efcaped by the fwiftnefs of their horfes : fo the Indians remained victorious, and by the way of triumph, fet fire to a frigate which the Spaniards had almofl finifhed to keep up their correfpondency with Peru. CHAP. X. — The City of Serena is peopled. — John Baptijie Pajlcnc goes for more Succours to Peru, from whence he returns to Chile ; and with Valdivia and other Captains, goes to help the Royal Army againji Pfz.arro. HERRERA fays, that with this relief which Valdivia received, he purfued his conqueft on the people called the Promocaes ; and that he was met by feveral Indians in the valley Quillocma, whom he overcame courageoufly, though with the lofs of fome horfes ; and at that time horfes were a thoufand crowns a-piece. Hav- ing difcovered large provinces, and being fatisficd of the great number of inhabi- tants in them, he returned to St.Jago. It is fuppofed the governor did all this in hiifte, fince he returned without making any fort or fettlement : fo it is probable he went this time only to difcover, in order to form a force proportionable of an army : therefore the General John Baptifte Paftene being returned from difcovering of the fea-coafts, he fent him back to Peru to endeavour to bring more fuccours, as he had done the firft, and fo form an army capable of enlarging his conquefts upon fuch powerful enemies, as he found the natives of Chile to be. Judging therefore that it was not yet time to leave any thing behind him unfortified, he founded in the valley of Coquimbo the city generally called by that name, but by him called La Serena, to ferve for a refting-piace or Scala for the people who came from Peru to Chile ; for being in great want of fupplies, he did endeavour to facilitate by all means their paiTage, and draw as many people as poilible to preferve his conqueft ; for afting otherwife would only be to have fo much the more to lofe j as indeed it happened, and fhall be rcla;ed in its due place. The city of La Serena was the fecond that was founded in Chile in the year 1 544, in a very pleafant and fruitful valley, watered by a very fine river, not of the biggeft, 1 1 but ovalle's historical relation of chile. 187 but of clear and admirable water, with which the fields are all fo plentifully re- frefhed, that their produft is fo various, that the inhabitants want almoft nothing from abroad that is neceflary for human life; for they have corn, wine, flefh, ail forts of other grain, and pulfe-fruits, even more than in St.Jago ; for befides all thofe of Europe, and thofe of Chile, they have two forts very extraordinary : the firft is a fort of cucumbers, which are very fweet, and do not need paring, for the outiide is a very thin fkin, fmooth, of a delicate colour between white and yellow, all ftreaked with a very fine purple ; the other fruit is that which they call Lucumas, and is a fruit, as I remember, I have (een in Peru : it is a very wholefome well-tafted fruit, the ftone is fmooth, and of a purple colour. The oil of this place is abfolutely the befl in the whole kingdom, as clear and bright as one's eyes, and of a rare fmell and tafle : they make great quantities, fo that they fend a great deal abroad. They have great flocks of cattle, though not fo many as about St.Jago, becaufe it rains lefs, and fo the paflurages are leaner. But that wliich is moft particular, and of greatefl value in this country, is the great abundance of rich metals, as gold, copper, and lead ; fo that though they have given over gathering of gold in all the other parts of Chile, becaufe other produds are of greater advantage, yet in this place they go on gathering it more or lefs, according as the winter is more or lefs rainy ; for when it rains much, the mountains are diflblved, and the earth opened, and fo the gold is eafier found. And the copper too that is melted down there, ferves for all the kingdom, and Peru befides. The climate of this city is abfolutely the moft temperate of all the kingdom ; becaufe the winter, which in other parts is very fharp, particularly nearer the pole, is here fo gentle, that it is hardly- perceived, it being within five or fix degrees of the tropick, and being in the 29th degree of latitude, enjoys a moderate climate, the longeft day being of fourteen hours, and is upon the nth of December, as the fliorteft is on the nth of June, and the night is of fourteen hours. But the accidental fituation of the city helps much towards the mildnefs of the climate : it is within two leagues of the fea, having a plain before it all covered with myrtles : it ftands on a rifing ground, having a profped to the fea, which makes a beautiful bay, abounding in filh of all forts ; by which it is an excellent place to pafs the Lent in, fifh being very cheap : but the good cheer is alfo as well out of Lent ; for befides the mutton, which is excellent and very nouriftiing, there is plenty of tame fowl, partridge, turkeys, and all forts of wild fowl. This city began to be inhabited by many noble families, the founders being men of the beft quality that came to Chile ; and their de- fcendants have remiuned, and do maintain the luftre of their anceftors. The governor- general appoints the place of Corregidor, or mayor of the city ; and it is one of the moft profitable places that are, becaufe of the mines which are wrought in its territory : but notwithftcmding all thefe "good qualities which we have mentioned, this city does not increafe fo faft as that of St. Jago ; for this lafl; may be compared to the clove-tree, which fucks to itfelf all the fubftance of the earth round about it, a thing which is proper enough to capital cities every where. About this time the General John Baptifte Piftene arrived at Peru for a fecond fupply of men, which Pedro de Valdivia defired of the viceroy, to carry on his conqueft ; but he found the whole country in confiifion, caufed by the ftubborn difobedience of Gon9alo Pizarro, fo that the government wanted relief icfelf, inftead of being in a condition -to relieve others. This was fo true, that Paftene was forced to return to Chile, to bring a force from thence to join with the royal army. This refolution it is probable came to the knowledge of the tyrant Pizarro ; for he found means to feize B B 2 his 1 88 OVALLE's HISTOllICAL RELATION OF CHILE. his fhip and his perfon by cunning. Paftene, though much preffed by Pizarro both by promifes and threats to join with him, as very well knowing how much he might ailifl: him as his friend, or injure him as his enemy, yet perfevered in his loyalty to the King, and found means to make his efcape out of the hands of the tyrant, and to re- cover his fhip too ; which having new fitted with necelTaries, he returned to Chile, to bring from thence fome of the beft officers to encourage the royal army, which was preparing to engage Pizarro, who on his fide had fuch a force, that he had put to death the viceroy Velafco Nunnes Vela. In Chile they were waiting for his return, and the fuccours he fhould bring with him ; but when they faw him without any, they were much troubled ; for they found themfelves obliged at lealt to fufpend all their projects upon Chile, to go and relieve thofe upon whom their own prefervation depended. The Governor Pedro de Valdivia, as foon as he heard what paffed in Peru, refolved to go thither in perfon with fome of his beft officers and foldiers to join and help the King's forces. He left in Chile for his lieutenant Captain Francifco de Villagra, a gen- tleman of great courage and good parts, that he might govern and preferve what we had already in that kingdom, it being impoffible to do more, or make any further progrefs, till fihe times fhould alter, and he provide more forces. He got together what gold he could, and went aboard with his captains and foldiers in the fame fliip, un- der the condutt of the fame General Paftene. His arrival at Peru gave great courage to the King's forces, by reafon of the gold and men which he brought, the valour and ex- perience of which was fo great, that in the battle they performed extraordinary things, being the chief caufe of the viftory obtained over Pizarro in the valley of Ouiriguana. He himfelf was taken, and chaftifed with his guilty affiftants, as his folly deferved, and his difloyalty to his Prince. The prefident of Peru, Gafca, always advifed with the Governor Valdivia in all his moft important affiiirs, whom he made of his council, with fix more, for the fecreteft affairs and of moft importance, making great efteem of his prudence and experience, as well as of the valour of his companions. The vidory being obtained, the governor returned to Chile, with a good fuccour of men and arms, and the fame officers and foldiers, who accompanied him to Peru, with which, and other fuccours which came afterwards, he was in a condition to purfue his enterprize vigoroufly, as we fhall fee hereafter. But all was little enough againft the refiftance of the Indians, who not only kept them from advancing, but for fix years together that their ftubborn oppofition lafted, they reduced the Spaniards to great extremities of nakednefs and hunger ; fo that they were forced to eat herbs and roots, and rats and mice, and fuch things ; and if the heart and courage of the Governor Val- divia had not been invincible, it would have been impoffible , to have made the conqueft. CHAP. XI. — What happened in Chile during the Abfence of the Governor Valdivia, and after his Return ; and of the new Succours he received. PEDRO Sanches de Hoz was a foldier, to whom the King was pleafed to grant a patent for the difcovery and conqueft of certain lands, to begin from the jurifdidion of the Alarquifs Francis Pizarro ; and he pretending that part of the kingd^)!! of Chile was in his grant, oppofed the Governor Valdivia, to whom Pizarro by a royal commiffioii had given the conqueft and government of Chile ; but the marquifs perfuaded him to defift, and go along with Valdivia to Chile, recommending his perfon to the governor, to ufe him with regard, and give him a fhare in the bell part of his conqueft. Val- I o divia ovalle's historical relation of chile. 189 divia did fo, beftowing on him the richeft lands of the Indians ; but the ambition of commanding is always very contentious, and fubjedt to complain till it gets the upper hand. This appeared in Pedro Sanches de Hoz, in the abfence of the governor from Chile; for being vexed that he was not left with the authority of lieutenant in his room, he plotted to take away the life of him who had it, which was Francifco de Villagra, who having notice of his defigns, feized upon Pedro Sanches de Hoz, and cut off his head, by which he aflured his own ; and Valdivia approved of the thing as well done, when he was informed of it ; becaufe he was a friend to juftice, and becaufe a com- petitor is never forry to have his competitor removed. About this time, the Indians of Copiapo, who had begun to imbrue their hands in the blood of the Spaniards, in purfuance of the revenge of their Prince's death, whom the Captains Miranda and Monroy had killed, as we have related in the ninth chapter, ' lay in wait, and furprifed Juan Bon, with forty foldiers more, of fome companies which were coming from Peru, and marching through their country ; thefe they put all to death. After their example the Coquimbefes attacked the foldiers and inhabitants of the city of La Serena, whom they killed without fparing one, and fet fire to the city, which they ruined utterly, not leaving one ftone upon another. All this being underllood by the governor at his return from Peru, he fent Captain Francis de Aguirre with a good force, to follow them to their retiring-place, where in feveral rencounters, in the valley of Copiapo, he overcame the Indians : all which was as much owing to his great valour as conduct, without which the force he had would have proved irifufficient (as Herrera obferves). He did the fame in the valley of Coquimbo, and rebuilt the city of La Serena, in the place and Ctuation where it now ftands. For which reafon he was looked upon as the true founder of it ; and his defcendants, who are of the beft nobihty of the kingdom, have preferved that prero- gative, and are the chiefeft in that government, or rather the mailers of it ; for they are fo numerous and fo powerful, that they yield to none in reputation, and are accordingly refpedled by all. Let US' now treat of that which it Is not rtafonable to forget ; which is, of thofe captains, who in thofe early times entered Chile with fuccours of men to help to conquer it, fmce it is juft their memory fhould live for ever in thofe who enjoy the fruits of their labours, and are now mailers of what they gained with their blood and fweat, and the lofs of many lives, and danger of their own, which they expofed in fo many battles and encounters they had with the enemy. I am only forry, that I cannot fpeak of them all, and defcribe in particular their good qualities and great merits, becaufe I am in a place where I want memoirs and informations for fuch a work ; but I will fay what I can of their noble adlions, as I find them recorded in other hiftories ; though to fay truth, that which they fay about Chile is fo Httle, that it is almoft next to nothing. I am not furprifed at it, for it is a place much out of the way, and its con- querors were bulier with their fwords than with their pens ; for their enemies prefled them continually with fo much vigour, that they had but little of that leifure which hiftories and relations require. We fhall begin with the Governor Pedro de Valdivia, who was the firft that entered the kingdom with a force, as has been related ; then that which General Paftene brought afterwards with arms and cloaths. The fuccours brought by Captain Monroy proved of great importance ; as Herrera fays, it was of three-fcore men, which in thofe days was as much as fix hundred now : thefe he had hired in Peru, being much alTifted by the viceroy, who, upon the relations of Monroy and Miranda, was refolved to encourage the enterprize. I am igo OVALLE S HISTORICAL RELATION OF CIHI-E. I am not certain, whether it was before this, or after, that arrived the fuccours fo opportunely brought by Captain Chriftoval de Efcobar Villaroel ; for I do not find it mentioned in any of the hiftorians, which I have read here ; but in Chile the memory of it is very frefh, and will never be forgot ; not only for his coming in a time when they extremely wanted fupplies, but alfo for that circuftanceof this noble captain's having brought thefe fuccours upon his own charges, (and I think they were feventy men,) and made his way by land to Chile, either by the wildernefs of Aracama, or by the Cordillera, either of which mufl: coft a great fum of money, for it is above five hundred leagues. This adlion alone was fufficient to fliew the noblenefs of this gentleman, if that of his family had not been fo well known as it is in Spain ; but he continued to give proofs of his zeal for the King's fervice, by ferving in perfon, and employing alfo his fon Captain Alonfo de Efcobar Villaroel, whom he had brought with him from Spain, that they might both give an example to their poflerity, as they have ; not yielding to any, but. have produced many noble perfons, both in arms and other civil em- ployments of the government. When I refleft upon thofe I have known of the defcendants of this famous head and conqueror, I find, that between fons, grandfons, and great grandfons, they come up to eighty-feven ; and if they had not been fo many, there was enough to honour this family in the feven or eight fons of the General Luis de las Cucuas, grandfons of this gentleman, with whom he prefented himfelf to the royal army, all armed cap-a-pe, in which they ferved many years at their own charges ; for in thofe days the inhabitants that were gentlemen had no other reward but their loyalty, and the glory of ferving their prince. Antonio de Herrera makes mention of another fupply, of one hundred and eighty men, conduded by Captain Francifco Villagra, who was afterwards governor of Chile, and to whom that kingdom owes a great deal of its being, for the hazards he ran, and the noble anions he performed in its conqueft, as we fhall fee hereafter, and may be read in the general hiftory, to which I appeal. The nobility of his family was always notorious, and the gentlemen of his name have fhewed themfelves worthy of it, in the great fervices they have and do perform every day for the King, worthy of all forts of acknowledgment and reward. After this, in the time of the viceroy Don Antonio Hurtado de Mendo9a, Hie Excellen- cy, as Herrera fays, he fent Captain Don Martin de Avendano by land, with good fuc- cours of men, and three hundred and fifty mares and horfes, which were of as much importance for the war as fo many men. The defcendants of this gentleman are flill carrying on the luftre of his family, fo known in Salamanca and other parts, I was acquainted with two brothers of that name who alone might prefcrve and in- creafe the reputation of their family ; the one was Colonel Don Antonio de Avendano, who was colonel of the regiment of Arauco, who fignalized himfelf at the head of that regiment in many rencounters with the enemy, and particularly in one, where our camp was defeated, and where, to preferve the reputation he had gained in fo many noble aftions and imminent dangers, he chofe to die, being wounded in a great many places, and almoft cut in pieces by the furious enemy. Tihe other was Don Francifco de Avendano, likewife colonel, and who came to Spain ; where His Majefty, in confi- deration of his own and his anceftors' merit, honoured him with the habit of St. Jago, 3nd the government of Tucuman, where he died. I do not mention thofe companies out of which, as they paiTed by Copiaco, forty were killed|, with their leader Juan Bon j becaufe Herrera, who fpcaks of this, does QOt OVALLE*S HISTORICAL RELATION OF CHILE. 19I not fay who was the captain of them. Perhaps there were alfo other commanders, who in thole fix years time entered into Chile with men ; and I fhould be glad to be where I might have particular information of them, to do them at lead that fmall honour of putting their names in print, and giving fome glory to aftions which, perhaps, deferve to be graved in brafs. I do not likewife fet down here, that famous fupply of men brought by the fecond governor of Chile, Don Garcia Hurtado de Mendo9a, Marquis of Cannete, for this fhall be fpoke of in its proper place, after the death of the Governor Pedro de Valdi- via ; and thus we (hall conclude thofe who entered by the way of Peru. For though fince that time, there have been feveral fupplies, and are every day ftill more, yet they have not been remarkable enough, as not having come at firft, but after the fettlements were made ; and befides, it would carry me too far to report them all. But I fhall add here thofe which have come from Spain by the way of Buenos Ayres, as wdl becaufe they were the mod numerous, fome having been of five hundred or a thoufand men, as having come in dangerous times, when the kingdom was ready to be loft, the enemy having, as it were, befieged it ; and fo it is juft to preferve the memory of fuch famous benefactors^ who have been, as it were, fathers of their country. CHAP. XII. — The Governor Pedro de Valdivia piirfues his Conqiiejl, and peoples tl}€ City called of the Conception., where he had like to have been dcjtroyed in a Battle, ' THE Governor Pedro de Valdivia, feeing himfelf with a good force, and the great- nefs of his mind perfuading him that he had wherewithal to put an end to his enter- prize, Herrera fays he fent to the other fide of the Cordillera, from St.Jago, Captain Francifco Aquirra with a good number of men, with which he palTed thofe terrible mountains, and founded the Diagutas and Juries. Herrera fays no more : nor do I know any thing of thofe individual places and cities which he founded. The Governor Valdivia, on his fide, fet out of St.Jago with a powerful army, and, pafling the furious river of Maypo, Cachapoal, Tinguiritica, Pe- teroa, Tena, and Metaquito, he conquered the Promocaes, a warhke people, who had refifted Almagro, and, before that, had repulfed an army of fifty thoufand men, which the Inga had fent againit them when he endeavoured to conquer Chile ; but the good fortune and great valour of Valdivia and his men overcame that which feemed invinci- ble, though I am perfuaded that it was not without blood : but I refer myfelf to the general hiflory of Chile, which has defcribed the particular encounters and battles on both fides. The army paffed the deep river of Maule, and the wide Itata, and coming to that of Audalien, quartered by the fea-fide ; and, for the conveniency of fituation, he founded there the city of the Conception in the year 1550. But the natives, aftoniihed and enraged at this boldnefs of ilrangers, to enter thus into the heart of their country, as if it were their own, called a general aflembly, and, with a numerous and brave army, prefented them battle fo furioufly, that our people began to wifh they had not engaged themfelves fo far. Much blood was (hed on both fides ; and our army was in great danger of being deftroyed, till it pleafed God, (who guides all things to his ends,) who was to reap the fruit of his victory over thofe Gentiles, whom he had predefti- *nated by the means of the Gofpel, which was to be preached to them in cafe the Spa- niards were victorious, to make them fo at laft, and that very glorioufly, the famous Anabillo» ig2 OVALLE S HISTORICAL RELATION OF CHILE. Anabillo, chief head of the Pencones, remaining prifoner, after having behaved him- felf with great bravery in the fight. The fituation of the city of the Conception is on a plain w^here the fea makes a mofl beautiful bay, in form of a half-moon ; and nature has provided a mole, by putting there a large ifland, behind which fhips ride fafe from the north wind. By land, to- wards the eaft, it is encompaffed with fome high hills, the fides of which are all planted with vines and other fruit-trees ; fo that, which way foever one looks, the profpecl ter- minates in beautiful plantations of trees, or rather a green femicircle, which rejoices the fight, and fortifies the city. From the north, there comes into it a fmall river, which comes down from the mountains, which we have already defcribed in the chap- ter of the rivers of Chile. On the fouth fide, another larger deeper river runs by it, and is called Audalien. Neither of thefe rivers does the kindnefs to the city which Mapocho does to St. Jago, that is, to come into the houfes ; but the want of this is fupplied by excellent fountains of chryflalline and delicate water, which rife very near the city, and are brought into it particularly very plentifully, and which were carried to the public place by the General Don Diego Gon9ales Montero, he being Corrigedor of this city, and governing it with the fame prudence and generofity, that he fince governed that of St. Jago, in the fame quality of Corrigedor and lieutenant-general. ■ This city is in the latitude of thirty-three degrees and five and forty minutes to the antartick pole ; and for this reafon, and becaufe of the high land it ilands upon, the air is fo temperate, that the heats never are troublefome, nay, in the heat of fummer, it is neceffary to have as many bed-clothes as in winter, which is not at all fevere, be- caufe it never fnows there, though it rains extremely. For the fecurity of the city, there was erefted a good fort for our people to retire to when prefled by the Indians, which often happened, and made them ftand to their arms almoft continually ; for they, impatient of any yoke, were inceflantly taken up with the thoughts and endeavours of driving them out of the country, and, notwithftanding all the care that was taken, the city was loll at lad, for the enemy overpowered us : but yet in length of time it was built again, as we fliall fee ; though ftill remaining a frontier to the enemy, it has not had fuch increafe as St. Jago. But it gains ground, and has many rich inhabitants, who have entered upon a great vent of fait, flefli, and hides, which is one of the richeft commodities of Chile ; and they have, befides, magazines of flour, with which they furnifh the army : the wines, too, of thofe parts are generally better than thofe of St. Jago, though they are lower ceps or vines ; nay, the grapes ripen as they lie along on the ground, as it is in many parts hi Europe : they have not that abundance of almonds, oil, oranges and lemons, pulfe, Agi Legumes, and dried fruit, as in other parts of Chile, their fummer being fhorter, and the fun having lefs force. The Spanifh children born here are of a very fweet nature, and docile ; of good wits, and take to learning very well. The men are loyal, faithful keepers of their word, friendly, and fuch as for their friends will venture any thing to defend them in their honour and fortunes, even with the hazard of their own, and their lives too : they are very well difpofed to virtue, having good inclinations ; and thofe among them, who have taken to arms, have extremely fignalized themfelves. They are bred in great fimplicity, as being far from the corruption of the court, which generally improves the malice, and raifes the libertinifm of young people. The bifhopric of this city is a poor one, not being worth above two or three thoufand pieces of eight a year, becaufe, though the land is rich of itfelf, and that in which there are mofl mines, yet the Decimes or tenths are very fmall, becaufe of thofe continual wars which this city has maintained from its beginning ; for we may fay, it has been nurfed with blood, and grown up in arms, ovalle's historical relation of chile. 193 arms, not having laid them down in ninety-five years, which is no fmall evidence of the good qualities of its inhabitants, and what it may be henceforward, when this dead weight is taken off. Another caufe of the fmall revenue of this biflioprick, is the lofs of feven cities, feme of them the richeft of the kingdom, which all belonged to its diocefe. In the year 1567, there was fettled a high court of chancery, which remained till the year 1574, and afterwards it was removed to St. Jago, where it now is : and though its jurifdittion reaches as far as this city, there is little for it to do, becaufe the governors are generally prefent, to be nearer the garrifons, and countenance and affill the war, of which there is a continual neceffity. The garrifon is very numerous, and of choice foldiers, where every day they mount the guard, as it is praftifed in places of war. The general provides all the officers, even to the colonels ; but His Majeily names the treafurer and mufter-mafler-general, who is the fecond perfon after the governor : this is a poft of great efteem, and no fmall value in this kingdom ; and there^ go through his hands three hundred thoufand ducats of the King's money, which every year is to be diftributed among the officers and foldiers, who are enrolled m his books. CHAP. XIII. — The Governor Pedro de Valdivia profecutes his Conqueji, and founds the Cities of Imperial^ Valdivia^ and Villa Rica, and raifes three Forts in Araiico. THE Governor Valdivia having fpent the year 1550 in peopling the city of the Conception, and defending himfelf in his fort againft the continual attacks of the enemy, and having, at the fame time, informed himfelf more exactly of the country, and its fertility, by the means of Captain Hyeronimo de Alderate, who had gone through it, and obferved the number of its inhabitants, refolved to go out of the Con- ception, and purfue his conqueft. In order to this, after having well provided his fort, and left a garrifon in it, he fet out in the beginning of the year 1551. He took his way with his army by the plains of Angol, croffing firft the great river Biobio, and coming to that of Cauten, which, for its gentlenefs, is called the Ladies River, when joined with another very pleafant one near the fea : here he found great fettlements of Indians, and founded the city of Imperial. This is one of the moft agreeable fituations of the whole kingdom, being about three or four leagues from the fea, and thirty-nine leagues from the Conception, and a hundred and nine from the city of St. Jago, in thirty-nine degrees of fouth latitude. All the territory of this city is very fruitful, bearing corn, and all forts of pulfe and fruits, though the black grapes do not ripen fo kindly as the white ones and the mufcadines : the country is not all plains and valleys, nor all hills, but rather a compofition of the whole ; the hills are gentle and traftable, with good pafture and ffielter for cattle ; the ground does not want much watering, it having frequent and large dews that fertilize it. The city was fituated upon a pretty fliff hill, and the confluence of two navigable rivers ; but the port is not good, for the flats there are within three fathom and a half of depth. Here the governor met with fourfcore thoufand Indians fettled, nay, fome authors fay, they were many more ; and all agree that they were a quiet and good-natured people, not at all fo warlike as the Araucanos. This city was the head of the biflioprick, and it began to increafe at firft very much, by reafon of the excellency of its foil and fituation ; and if it had not been deftroyed, as we fhall fee hereafter that it was, it would by this time have been a great city ; for it was already very well peopled, and muft have increafed, if the gold mines which are in its neighbourhood had been wrought. VOL. XIV. c c This 194 OVALLE S HISTORICAL RELATION OF CHILE. This city, which was the fourth of this kingdom, being thus founded, the governor divided the territory, and gave the lordfhips to his conquerors, according to the royal privilege he had fo to do, that he might engage the Spaniards to enter more heartily into his enterprize. He took for himfelf the lordfhips of Arauco and Tucapel, as far as Puren, except fome manors that he gave to others, to content all. Having left a force, which feemed fufficient in the city of Imperial, he marched as far as Valdivia. Being come to that famous river, and defiring to pafs it, to conquer the land and people on the other fide, the brave Indian lady, called Recloma, hindered him, offer- ing to pafs the river alone fwimming, and to reduce the Indians to his obedience, as fhe did, and we have already related in the ninth chapter of the firll book ; and there likewile is a full defcription of the fituation of the city, and all its other qualities, which it was proper to make in that place, and fo it is not neceflary to repeat here. The governor having founded the city of Valdivia, eredled a fort, and fettled all things as he had done at the Imperial. While he flayed there to purfue his fettlement, he fent Captain Hyeronimo de Ald^rate to difcover the country as far as the Cordillera Nevada; and he having fent to the governor relations of his difcoveries, as he went founded a town, which he called, by the excellency, Villa Rica, the appearances of the riches of that country being gre:.ter than any yet had been diicovered. Though the fituation he chofe feemed at firfl to be the befl, yet in time it was refolved to change it, and place it upon a great lake, at the bottom of the Cordillera, and about fixteen leagues Irom the Imperial, and forty from the Conception. Ifhas not fuch a plenty of corn and wine as the others, but it has enough, and many other good qualities, which I omit, becaufe it being fmce deftroyed with other cities, already mentioned, I am likewife forced to be filent of their particular properties, and refer myfelf to the general hiflory of Chile, which will embrace all thole particulars. Thefe were the cities planted and peopled by the governor Valdivia ; and though I have not, as to thefe lalt, made mention of the blood fpilt in gaining them, it is not to be imagined but that they cod dear enough, fince the contefl was with fuch war- like nations, that it feemed a great rafhnefs (and would have been fo without a par- ticular protection from heaven) to undertake fuch enterprizes. There are not wanting thofe who blame the governor Valdivia, judging that he did not meafure well his flrength, but grafped more than he could hold, as he found by a fad experience at his own peril in a little time. The authors who fpeak of thefe attemps are full of the commendation of the valour, patience, and fufferings of the Caflilians ; but all this would not have done, nor have fubjecled thofe people, nor twice that force could have prevailed againft them, if, becaufe they faw them on horfe-back, and killing people at a diflance, they had not believed them to be Epunamones, by which name they called the gods they adored ; fo they imagined them to be immortal, and that they came from above with a power to fend out thunderbolts like God : for having never feen either fniall arms, or great artillery, they thought the noife was thunder ; and to this day that fort of arms is called Talca, which in their language fignilies thunder ; and out of the fame imagi- nation they called the Spaniards Viracochas, which is as much as to fay, fcum of the fea, or a people come by fea, giving to underfland, that thofe men, if they were men, were fent from God to fubjcd them. This made them ready at lirft to fhow all refpcft to the Spaniards, and kept them from rebelling, and rclifting fo vigoroufly as they did afterwards, though they always made fome oppofition, particularly the Araucanos, who have ever been the eagles among the Indians. Valdivia having well cbferved this, was content at prefent with what he had conquered, and returning to Arauco ovalle's historical relation of chile. 195 Arauco by Puren and Tucapel, he caufed three ftrong houfes to be erecled in the diftance of eight leagues from one another, and in fuch places as might have an eafy communication together. Having thus fettled matters, he returned to the Conception, and fo to St. Jago ; from whence he difpatched Captain Hyeronimo de Alderate to Caftile, to give the King information of the riches that were difcovered in that country, and its other good qualities ; as alfo a relation of the fettlements made there, in order to obtain a fupply of people, which was granted. The cities newly founded were in great danger of being loft ; for indeed they were more than our forces could proteci:, and the Indians fliewed great impatience, and fretted to fee foreigners fettle cities in their country, and erect forts and ftrong places for their fecurity. The governor being informed of this difpofition of the Indians, fet out from St. Jago with a fupply of men which he had received from Peru, under the condudt of Don Martin de Avendano, and relieved all the garrifons ; which having done, and prefuming they were fafe, without reflefting on the danger that threatened him, he applied all his intention to give a beginning to the worldng of the gold mines for a defign he had. This was to go to Spain, and carry with him all the gold he could get together, to Ihew the King the vafl riches of the country, and to obtain from His iSlajefty thofe titles of honour which were generally beflowed upon the conquerors and difcoverers of thofe Indian kingdoms, and fo bring back a good force to fubdue them For this end he did two things ; the firft, to fend to the ftraights of Magellan, in the year 1552, Francifco de Ulloa, that with two fliips, which were equipped on purpofe, he might difcover all the ftraight, and give an account of it, fo that he' might know how to undertake the voyage to Spain that way : the other thing he did, was to fet people to work to find out new gold mines, which they eafily did, there being fo many in thefe parts ; among which, the moft famous were the mines of Quilacoya, four leagues from the city of the Conception ; and others in Angol, to work which he em- ployed twenty thoufand Indians. It is eafy to imagine how much gold fuch numbers of men might get from thofe mines, which had never been touched till then ; it was very great, and enough to enrich both governor and foldiers, which it did : and with the acquifition of fo much treafure, they began likewife to defpife their enemies ; who, while they were bufy in fearching the bowels of the earth for gold, were employed in thinking how they fliould recover their loft liberty, and free themfelves from the yoke of fubjedion, which they had never felt before. The city of the Conception went on profpering, becaufe of the great quantity of gold brought into it every day ; by which means the minds of the inhabitants were elevated in proportion, and the foldiers grew wanton and infolent. The governor being tainted v/ith the fame difeafe of too much profperity, neglected to take notice of thefe diforders ; for the defire of liches increafing by riches, which they fa w every day fill their coffers, they were leis attentive to that which ought moft to have drawn their attention, which was their own and the King's prefervation, and fo made way for that blov; of fortune that laid them all along. The Araucanos were as uneafy, and continually plotting how to compafs their de- figns, and at lafl refolved to rife unanimouily againfl the Spaniards, and take their revenge of them. To try how it would be taken they began to talk big, and carry themfelves haughtily, more like mafters of the land than like fervants ; they quarrelled with one and the other, and lofing all refpeft drove the thing fo far as to kill fome Spaniards in thefe contefts : and then perceiving that thefe things were diifembled, and that their boldnefs had its defired eifect, they grew every day more infolent ; and at c c 2 laft 196 ovalle's historical relation of chile. lafl: being thoroughly fatisfied that the Spaniards were neither gods nor immortal, nor of any other fpecies than they, but fubjeft to all human infirmities, they began to fear them no longer, but refolved to fall upon them. CHAP. XIV. — The City of Angol is peopled, and the Indians rife againji the Spaniards. UPON occafion of the mines that were begun to be wrought in the difliritl of Angol, the governor Pedro de Valdivia fettled a city of that name there, which was alfo called the city of the confines. Some attribute this foundation to the Marquis of Cannette, Don Garcia Urtado de Mendo9a, who governed after the death of Pedro de Valdivia : perhaps the reafon of this is, that the fituation of this city at firft was three leagues from the place where it now ftands : fo it might be that Valdivia firfl fettled it, and the Marquis removed it to the place it is now in, and that was ground enough to make him the founder. The prefent fituation is in a plain, very large and difengaged, eight leagues from the Cordillera, and twenty from the Conception ; fome fay fixteen, which perhaps is caufed by the difference of its two fituations. Their longed day and longeft night are of fourteen hours and a half. The land is very fertile ; fruits ripen very well : there is good wine, and good ftore of raifins dried in the fun, figs, and other dried fruits j a vaft quantity of tall cyprefles, which yield a very fvveet-fcented wood, of which, Herrera fays, there is made a gum-lac. The great river Biobio runs by it, and ferves it for a wall and ditch on the fouth fide ; and on the north fide another plealant rivulet comes running from hills of a moderate height, and turns many mills for the ufe of the city. Thofe whom I have known that have been born in this city, have proved very gentle in their difpofitions, of good wits, and noble inclinations, very friendly and real, and extremely loyal to the King, as indeed all the Chilenians are, looking upon that as the higheft punclo of their gentility. Now let us return to the Araucanos, who were bufy in calling together their aflem- blies there, to treat how to call off the yoke of fervitude, and make themfeives mafters of that which was truly theirs. So it was, that the Caciques being poffeffed with an opinion that their forces were not inferior to the Spaniards, began to call them together j and they needed no incitements of pay or money ; for the love of their liberty, and poffellions, and poflerity, was a fufRcient fpur to them, thinking every day a year that kept them from engaging with their enemies, and conquering them. The Caciques that met were thefe : firft, Tucapel, a great butcher of Chrifiians, with three thoufand foldiers ; Angol, who was very brave, with four thoufand ; Cayocupil, with three thoufand men, whom he brought from the Cordillera, as hardy as the rocks they came from, and made to endure any labour ; Millarapue, an old man, of great wifdom, he brought five thoufand 5 Paicavi, with three thoufand ; Lemoleno, with fix thoufand ; Mareguano, Gualerao, and Leucopie, each with three thoufand ; the robufl Elicuera, held for one of the ftrongefl. men, with fix thoufand, and they antient ; and chief of all, Colocolo, with as many more. Ongolmo offered four thoufand ; and Puren fix thoufand ; Lincoyce, who was of the ffature of a giant, offered to bring more than any ; Peteguelen, lord of the valley of Arauco, from whence the whole took their name, came with fix thoufand j and the famous Caupolican, and his two neighbours Thome and Audalican, and many others, kept themfeives ready to come in with their fubjefts. They met, according to their cuitom, to eat and drink at their appointed ren- ovalle's historical relation of chile. 197 rendezvous, for that never Is omitted in thefe affemblies ; and having been unanimous in the firfl and chief point, which was to rife, there was fome difference about the choice of a general, every one defiring to have that command, as it generally happens in fuch eledions ; every one alledging their particular merits ; fhe one his valour, another his experience, another his good fortune, and none feemed to want a pretence for obtain- ing their defire. They grew warm in this ambitious conteft, and would have come to blows, if the old and wife Colocolo, by his prudence and authority, had not quieted them, and reduced them to confent to choofe Caupolican, not only as the bravefl foldier, but the ableft chief. This done they all fwore obedience to him, and promifed to obey his orders, for the better carrying on of their common defign. The Spaniards had, as we have already mentioned, three caftles for their fecurity, and one of them was near the poft where this affembly was kept ; and the Indians, proud and impatient, had a mind to attack it immediately '; but Caupolican, their ge- neral, forbid it, in order to do it with more dexterity and fafety. He commanded Palta, who performed the place of fergeant-general, to choofe him out four-fcore foldiers, of the braveft, and fuch as were leafl knovra to the Spaniards, and the Indians their friends : thefe he put under the condufl; of two very brave men, Cayaguano and Alca- tipay, and ordered them to enter the caftle with their arms by this ftratagem. The Araucanos, though in peace, were not permitte'd to enter the caftle, except fuch as ferved the Spaniards ; and thefe entered often with their loads of grafs, wood, and other neceffaries for the garrifon. Caiipolican ordered thefe four-fcore men to feign themfelves to be fervants of the Spaniards, and having hid their arms in the grafs they carried, to anfwer nothing, but pretend they did not hear if they were alked any ques- tions : they acted their parts to the life, fonie counterfeiting lamenefs, others weari- nefs, fo that they were all let in without fufpicion ; then they took their arms out of the grafs, and fell unanimoufly upon the Spaniards, who were much aftonifhed at fo unforefeen a boldnefs. However, they gave the alarm, and all coming out of their quarters, refilled them, fo as to kill fome of the Indians : the others either out of fear of the Spaniards, or on purpofe to draw them out of the caftle in their purfuit, retired, on purpofe to gain time till their general Caupolican could come up with his army ; which he did with a very numerous one, and forced the Spaniards to retire to their fort. He befieged them in it, and after having killed many of them, thofe who remained alive were glad to leave the poft, and get away, judging it better to retire to Puren, left they fhould lofe all ; whereas being joined to the garrifon of Puren, they might better refift the enemy, though he was-very powerful, and much elevated. The news of this invafion foon reached the Conception, and the governor Pedro de Valdivia, who was then there, began prefently to confider how to remedy fo great a mifchief. Some blame him as tardy in doing of it ; for to fecure the treafure of the mines, where (as Herrera fays) he had fifty thoufand vaffals at work to get gold for him. Before he went to fuccour thofe in Puren, he went out of his way, and ftayed the erecting of a fort at the mines, which took him fo much time, that he came later than was requifite to their relief. But, indeed, if any thing was ill done by him, it was the making too much hafte ; for without ftaying for the relief and fuccours he might have received from the other cities, he fet out with a force not ftrong enough to encounter that of Caupolican : his courage deceived him ; for being elevated with his fucceffes, and trufting to his fortune, he ran into the precipice, as we fhall fliew in the followmg chapter. CHAP. 198 OVALLE*S HISTORICAL RELATION OP CHILE. CHAP. XV. — The Governor Pedro de Valdiv'ia^ mid all his People, are killed by fhe Indians. — The famous Aclion of Laiitaro is related^ that beiytg the chief Caufe of this Event. THE time of this great captain's death was now come ; all things, therefore, feemed to concur to that end. The prefent remedy that was to be applied to this niifchief, to flop its progrefs, and the delay of thofe fuccours he expefted from the other gafrifons, were all combining caufes : his heart mifgave him at his fctting out from Tucapel. He had fent out parties to bring him an account of the ftate of the enemy, but none came back : this gave him fome apprehenfion, but being engaged, it was neceffary to go on. He had fent out fcouts, as I laid, and had fcarcely gone two leagues on his way to them, but he faw the heads of two of them hanging upon a tree : this increafed his feai-, and he confulted with thofe with him, whether it would not be rafli to proceed. The young men were of opinion, that it would be a lefTening of their reputation to turn their backs to danger, though there came to them an Indian of their friends, and defired them not to proceed, becaufe Caupolican was at Tucapel with twenty thoufand Indians, and tliat the hazard they rarf was manifeft ; but he followed on his way, and came within fight of the enemy : they foon engaged, and the battle was cruel on both fides, fo that for a greafwhile no advantage could be perceived, becaufe the brave aclions on both fides kept vidlory in fufpence. After a good while of this contention, the Spaniards began to prevail, and to cry Viva Efpanna, or Live Spain ; with which, recovering new vigour, the Indians feemed to give way, when (as Arzilla, in his Araucana, fays) the famous Laiitaro, an Indian, who had been bred page to the governor Valdivia, having more regard to the love of his native country and his liberty, than for the education he received, and the fidelity he owed his mafter, went over to the Indians, and fpoke to them in this manner :— " What is this, brave Araucanos ? Do you turn your backs when your liberty is con- cerned, your country, your liberty, your pofterity ? Either recover your liberty, or lofe your lives ; for it is a lefs misfortune to die, than to live flaves. Do you intend to flain the glory of your anceft ors, acquired for fo many ages paft, in one hour ? Re- member you are defcended from thofe who gained that renown by refifling their enemies, and not flying from them ; and fuch as feared not to lofe both lives and fortunes to prcfei ve their fame : drive away all fear, generous foldiers, and either live free, or die." With thefe words he fo inflamed the minds of his friends, that, defpifing death, they returned with fury to invade thofe whom before they flew from. Lautaro, to encouiage them the more, led them on, fhaking his lance againfi: the governor, his mailer ; who, furprifed at his aftion, cried, " Traitor, what doll thou do ?" To which he anfwered only with a thruft or two, animating his people to do the fame. I'his renewed the fight, and they all refolved, by the example and exhortations of Lautaro, to conquer, or die ; which they performed with fo much fury, that the concern of both fides was now at the highcfl, and the contention only who fhould venture farthefl into danger. Many Spa- niards and Indians fell on both fides, and Lautaro flill encouraged his countrymen with- out any relenting. Valdivia did the fame by the Spaniards, and lliewcd hiaifelf every where, in the greatefl danger, without the leaft apprehenfion, though he faw many of the bravefl of his men fall by the fword. One would have thought the Indians had but jult begun to engage, to fee how like lions they fell on, and begun to find vidory incline to their fide, till at lafl there fell fo many Spaniards, that Valdivia was almoll left ovalle's historical relation of chile. 199 left alone. In this extremity, he went afide with his chaplain to confefs his fins, that being the principal thing he had now to do. The Indians gave him but little time to make his peace with heaven ; for a great troop of them fell upon him with darts and lances, killing the chaplain, and, taking him prifoner, they brought him alive to their general, for the laft triumph of their viftory. This hitherto unconquered captain appeared in the prefence of the great Caupoli- can, his hands tied behind him as captive, his face all bloody, though venerable. He afked his life as a favour ; he who a little before had it in his power to grant it his enemies. He turned his eyes towards his Lautaro, and, with their language, feemed to defire him to intercede for him who had been his lord and mafler, and by whofe means he was in this extremity. He promifed Caupolican, if he might have his Hfe, to withdraw all his forces, and leave the country free from their incum- brance. He made oath of this feveral times, and perfuaded with fo much eloquence his hearers, that Caupolican, who was as genercus as brave, began to relent, and incline to compafTion. But the greatefl part faid it was madnefs to truft to any words or promifes of a captive, who was forced to humble himfelf; but that when he fnould be free, he would do that which fhould be moft for his advantage. However, the difpute between them increafed, and no doubt but Lautaro would have inclined to mercy ; for if he fought againfl; his mafler, it was not out of any hatred to his perfon, but out of the great kindnefs he had to his country, which, with the defire of liberty, prevailed over the gratitude he owed for the good ufage he had received at his hands j but nothing of this was able to appeafe the vulgar, though Caupolican was inclined to clemency ; fo they forced him to pronounce his death, and to execute it immediately in hot blood, though they differed in the manner of it; for fome fay that they poured melted gold into his mouth, bidding him once for all content his thi: ft for that metal which he had fo infatiably coveted : others fay, that one of thofe Caciques, bearing impatiently that it fliould bear a queftion whether he fliould live or die, gave him a blow on the head with a club ; which Caupolican refented •highly, as a want of refpeft to him. That which I find moft probable is, that according to the cuftom of the Indians, they made flutes and trumpets of the bones of his legs and thighs, and kept his head as a teftimony of lb remarakble a victory, and to animate their youth to undertake the like actions, as they might fee by this their fathers had done. Thus I have heard it related. Of all the Spanifh army, it is faid there efcaped only two Indian friends, who, taking advantage of the obfcurity of the night, hid themfelves in a thicket, from whence creep- ing out as well as they could, they came to the Conception, and brought the news of this fatal event. The city was immediately full of confufion and complaints, the women crying and bewailing the lofs of their huftjands and fons, others that of their fathers and relations, and altogether the common calamity of their city, in which they were all equally concerned. CHAP. XVI. — Wbat happened after the Death of the Governor Pedro Va/divia. THE enemy having obtained fo remarkable a vidory, their general Caupolican commanded the retreat to be founded, and called a council, to confider whether, or no, it would be beft to follow their blow warmly. Many were of opinion it would be moft: expedient to fall upon the cities immediately, before they could prepare for them ; yet Caupolican, after having heard them all, refolved to do othervvife. It is better, faid I where 20O ovalle's historical relation op chile. he, to expecl our enemies in our own homes, than to go to feek them at theirs, where all men fight with more valour ; let them come to feek us in our mountains and bogs, where we are fure of a fafe retreat : let us give our enemies a free accefs to us, who have our fituation to befriend us ; and, in the meantime, our horfes and foldiers may refrefli themfelves : and if they out of fear (which I believe they will not) do forbear to feek us out, we may attack them when we will. Having fpoke thus, he took Lautaro by the hand, and having publicly commended him, by attributing to him the victory and the liberty of his country, he, by confent of all, made him his lieutenant-general, and gave him leave to chufe out the men he would have to ferve under him, to go and pitch upon a fit port to expedl the Spaniards in. Lautaro was no very tall man, but well fet, and ftrong, induflrious, cautious, of good counfel, gentle, and well-propor- tioned, very brave, as we have feen, and fliall fee hereafter. To celebrate this victory, the Indians folemnized public games of wreflling, running, leaping, and other proofs of their ftrength and dexterity : they made alfo great feafting with dancings, and for feveral days did nothing but rejoice and be merry'; but ftill with- out forgetting to be upon their guard, as men that expefted their enemies whom they prefumed defirous of revenge. Francifco de Villagran was lieutenant-general to Valdivia when he was killed ; who remaining chief in command, afl'embled all he could to go and take vengeance of the enemy for this defeat. Setting out, he came as far as Arauco ; and being come to a high mountain in the way, he found Lautaro on the top of it, with ten thoufand men, without having fent out any to diftuib the Spaniards' march; for he had left all the pafles eafy, to oblige them to come to that place : it was not far from the fea, which waflied the foot of the mountain on one fide ; the coming up on the other fide was eafy ; all the reft was precipice ; but the top was a plain fit to draw up in, and very proper for his defign. The Spanifh general being in prefence, the armies began to draw up on both fides ; and, not to make the Indians too prefumptuous, he ordered three troops of hoife to begin the charge, in hopes to draw the Indians trom their poft, but in vain ; for though they made three attacks, yet Lautaro would not flir, but received tliem with fhoweis of arrows, ftones, and darts, which made them retire fafter than they came on. Our people, who could not break this battalion, with the evident danger of falling into pre- cipices, did what they could, but with little eflect, only tiring their horfes ; for the enemy kept his poft, not a man of them ftirring out of his rank ; only Lautaro would permit fome of the braveft to go out, and defy the Spaniards body to body. There came forth, among the reft, a brave youth, called Curioman, who taking a long career, would throw his lance with that dexterity, that he wounded many of the Spaniards : he did this feven times, and, at the eighth, Villagran, being vexed at his importunate boldnefs, commanded a famous foldier, called Diego Lano, to challife the Indian's in- folence, which he did ; and it was all his high courage and ftrength could perform. The Spaniards feeing themfelves tired, and that all the movement of their horfe figni- fied little, and that the Indians were taking the pafles behind them, began to ufe their fmall fliot, which at firft made a great flaughter among the Indians. Lautaro, to remedy this inconvenience, commanded Leucaton, one of his captains, to attack the Spaniards on the flank, and not to flop till he came up clofe with their mufqueteers, that by this means mingling with them, they might avoid their fmall fliot, which, in that cafe, could not be of any ufe to the Spaniards, witliout wounding their own men too. This he obferved, and they ever fince have pradtifcd the iame with good fuccefs ; and without this boldnefs, in which they always lofe fome men, they would be much inferior to the J I Spa. 20I Spaniards, they having no fire-arms to ufe in the like manner : they fhew in this their invincible courage, and undifturbed bravery, by which they make to theinfeives a de- fence of their own enemies ; for being once mingled with them, they cannot offend them, without deftroying, at the fame time, their own people. The fight on both fides was bravely maintained, Lautaro rehering and encouraging his men, as Villagran did his, both of them doing the parts both of general and foldier, and expofmg themfelves to the greatelt danger. He that fignaUzed his valour moft on our fide, was the famous Captain Pedro Olraos de Aquillera, killing with his own hand four of the chiefe of the Indians. Our army was encouraged \nth his valour, which he inherited from that noble family fo fpread in Andalufia : he was feconded by the Bernales Pantoias, Alvarados, and many others, who performed wonders in this battle, which was long contefled, very bloody, and in fufpenfe to the laft. The enemy was much fuperior in ftrength to our forces, and, therefore, the victory began to incline to their fide ; for though Villagran the general, and fome others, would rather have chofe to die there with honour, than turn their backs, yet the greatefl part judging that there was no honour lofl in a vigorous retreat, and that it would be rafhnefs to perfifl in fo defperate a cafe, they began to retire, fighting and defending themfelves ; but the enemy, elevated with this fuccefs, followed clofe, and having knocked Villagran off his horfe, they had made an end of him, if he had not vahantly defended himfelf till thirteen of his men came to his relief. Thefe famous commanders did not obtain lefs glory in this retreat, than if they had gained a \i(5tory ; for the enemy following them for iix leagues together, being a hun- dred to one, and having feized upon moft of the paifes, and the numbers ftill increaf- ing, yet the Spaniards made a noble defence, and killed many of them. Thofe who efcaped from this engagement, came with the fad news of the ill fuccefs to the city of the Conception, which fet all the inhabitants in an uproar, mingled with lamentations and cries, every one being in fome meafure concerned in the calamit)' ; for between Spaniards and friendly Indians, there died in this engagement two thoufand five hun- dred. One would have thought the day of judgment had been come, to fee the con- fufion that was in the city upon this news ; one laments the death of his father, another of her hulband ; fome cry for their fons, fome for their brothers ; the women wring their hands, pull off their hair, fill the air with lamentable cries ; the children cling to their parents, afking for their loft fathers, which is more grievous to them than daggers. In the midil of thefe horrors, night came on, in which no one could fhut their eyes, for the memory of their misfortunes keeps the foul attentive, without any confolation. • CHAP. XVII. — Lautaro facks the City of the Conception; and CaupoUcan befteges the City of the Imperial, which is defended by the Oueen of Heaven. MISFORTUNES feldom come alone ; and fo it happened to this afflicted city, which, inflead of receiving comfort from the approaching day, no fooner did it appear, when the noife of drums and trumpets gave a warm alarm of the enemies being at hand. Here the confufion increafed ; for now the concern was not for the lofs of others, but for every one's own fafety, the danger was threatening them fo immediately : there was nothing but diforder, no counfel nor refolution being to be found in the wifeft : they could not defend themfelves, becaufe they were fo overpowered in numbers by the enemy ; and the retreat, though neceffary, was dilBcult, becaufe of the approach of VOL. XIV. D D the 202 OVALLE S HlSTOmCAL RELATION OF CHILE. the Indians. In this hard conflict, at lad the refolution that prevailed was to abandon the city, without pretending to fave any thing but their lives. They leave the city then, and all the gold they had got together in fuch quantities. They go out in long files, the mothers helping their little children along : the way that they undertook, was to the city of St. Jago, a long one, in which many rivers were to be crofled, and hard paffes to be gone through : this labour was accompanied with the perpetual fright of the enemies' purfuing them. Who can relate the hardlhips of hunger and other fufferings, through fo long a tradl of mountains, defarts, and uninhabited countries ? How the women, the children, the old men, could bear this fatigue, we muft; leave to imagina- tion to reprefent the true idea of thefe misfortunes ! Let us therefore return to the Indians. The Spaniards had hardly made an end of abandoning the city, when the Indians entered into it ; and not being able to execute their rage upon the inhabitants, they did it upon the houfes, to which they fet fire, and confumed them to the very foundation, killing even the very animals which the Spaniards left behind them. Thus was lofl the city mofl abounding in gold, and fituated in the molt populous part of the Indian country ; for it is faid there were not lefs than a hundred thoufand Indians, with their families, who were all employed in gathering gold for the Spaniards, whom they enriched to that degree, that Pedro de Valdivia, if he had lived, would have had fifty thoufand crowns of gold a-year, and others twenty and thirty thoufand. This burning of the city being over, news was brought, that Caupolican had called a great affembly in Arauco, which made Lautaro return with his people to be at it. When the two generals of the Araucanos met, they greeted one another for the vic- tories obtained over the Spaniards ; and, in fign of triumph, one hundred and thirty Caciques, all dreffed themfelves in the Spanifh drefs, with the cloths they took from the Spaniards killed in the battle. The general had Valdivia's cloths, which were, as it is reported, of green velvet, laced with gold lace, a back and breaft of well-tempered fteel, and a helmet with a great emerald for creft. All having feated themfelves in order by the general's command, he propofed to them the defign of conquering back all that was gained from them by the Spaniards, who now were fo dejeded with their lofs. They all agreed to his defire, every one delivering his opinion with great pride and arrogance. It is faid, that the old and prudent Colocolo, hearing them deliver their opinions with fo much infolence and prefumption, that it looked as if all the world was too weak to refilt their valour, humbled them a little, by putting them in mind^ that if they had obtained two viftories, the Spaniards had gained many more over them, and had made them ferve as flaves ; therefore, that they ought to behave themfelves with moderation and temper, that they might expeft fuccefs from their arms ; and added, that it was his opinion, that they fhould divide their forces into three parts, and, at the fame time, afl'ault the city of the Imperial. Puchecalco, a famous conjuring Cacique, following the fame thought of humbling the intolerable haughtinefs of the aifembly, told them, that they might give over their pre- fumption, for he was to acquaint them, that, having confulted his oracles, they had anfwered him, " that though at pi efent they were fo victorious, yet at lafl: they were to live under the Spanifh yoke in perpetual ilavery." The Cacique Tucapel could not bear to hear this ; and rifmg from his place, with his mace of arms gave him fuch a blow as took away his life. The general was highly offended at this infolence, and,' being refolved to chaftife the author of it, the whole affembly was dilturbed ; and though they all endeavoured to lay hold on the murderer, yet he defended himfelf fo vrell with has mace of arms, that it was not eafy to feize him : but Lautaro, who had 8 great ovalle's historical relation op chile. 203 great power with the general, made up the whole bufinefs ; and the refult of the coun- cil being to befiege the city of the Imperial, they immediately put it in execution. Their army took its pofl three leagues from the Imperial ; which city, though it had a good garrifon of brave men, was not neverthelefs prepared nor provided for a fiege with ammunition and viduals, becaufe the enemies would have taken it, if any had been fent to it ; but the Queen of Heaven delivered them from this great danger. The enemies drawing near the city, there arofe on a fudden a mighty florm of hail and rain, with black clouds ; and their Epunamon appeared to them in the form of a ter- rible dragon, cafting out fire at his mouth, and his tail curled up, bidding them make hafte, for the city was theirs, being unprovided : and that they Ihould enter it, and put to the fword all the chriflians, and fo difappeared : but as they were purfuing their defign, animated by this ora(j.Ie, on a fudden the heavens cleared up, and a very beau- tiful woman appeared upon a bright cloud, and fhewing them a charming, but majeRic and fevere countenance, took from them the pride and haughtinefs infpired into them by their firft vifion, commanding them to return to their own homes, for God was reiolved to favour the chriftians ; and they obeyed immediately. To which the author who reports this ftory adds, that the whole camp faw the apparition, which was on the 23d of April, and that all agree in this. CHAP. XIX. — The City of the Conception is rebuilt ; and Lautaro having taken it a fecond Time, marches to take the City of St. J ago, where he dies. THE Spaniards being in fafety, began to think of returning to the Conception, and rebuilding of it. To this end they raifed men at St. Jago, and with great difficulty compafled their intention, making a good fortrefs within the city for their better fecurity. The Indians of the neighbourhood, though they were in their hearts as averfe,as any others to be commanded by ftrangers, and to let them build cities in their territories, diflemlDled neverthelefs at prefent, but in due time gave advice to Arauco, defiring help to drive out thefe new comers, or make an end of them at once. Lautaro came to them prefently with a good army ; and fome companies of Spaniards, which went out to encounter him, were forced to retire to the fort they had made, in which they defended themfelves as long as they were able to withftand the force of Lautaro ; but at laft being overpowered, they were forced to retire a fecond time to the city of St. Jago. Many Spaniards were loft, and Lautaro followed the purfuit, in which many brave aftions were performed on both fides : among the reft, a famous Indian captain, called Rengo, following three Spanifli captains who were retiring, called them cowards, and faid a hundred infolent things to them, which moved one of them to attack him at the paflage of a river ; but he fecured himfelf by choofing a ftrong poft ; fo the Spaniards went on to St. Jago, and Lautaro retreated to Arauco, where great re- joicings were made for this new victory. The Indians renewed their meetings ; and being much elevated with their fuccefs, they came to a refolution of not troubling themfelves with the leffer cities, which they reckoned as their own; but to attack the capital of St. Jago. Lautaro offered to un- dertake this enterprize ; and chufing the moft warlike among them, he marched with a powerful army. He paflTed the rivers Biobio, Itata, Maule, and Mataquito ; near this laft he raifed a fort to fecure his retreat, if need were, he being engaged far from his own territories. D D a When 204 ovalle's historical relation of chile. When the news of this refolution came to St.Jago, many looked upon it as a fable, not being capable of imagining that the Indians had boldnels enough to march fo far to attack them ; but thofe who were come back from the city of the Conception undeceived them, as knowing by experience Lautaro's courage ; they therefore fortified the place, and provided it : they alfo fent out parties to engage the enemies, if the occafion offered : but Lautaro forced them to return in hafle to carry the news, and yet feme remained behind too. Francifco de Villagran, the lieutenant-general, was fick at this time ; and fo fent his coufm Pedro de Villagran, with all the force he could make, to meet Lautaro ; they lodged within half an hour from the fort which the Indians had raifed upon the Rio Claro ; the next day they entered the fort without any refiftance ; for Lautaro had cunningly ordered his men to feem to fly, that he might catch the Spaniards in the fort 5 and fo, when he faw his time, he gave the fignal, and his men fell on the Spaniards like lions, who had enough to do to make their retreat, and efcape from their hands. The Indians followed them for a league, doing them much mifchief, though they defended themfelves with great valour. Lautaro feigned a fecond time to fly ; and our people being reinforced, engaged him a-frefli. They attacked his fort, and gave three ailaults to it ; where they were received with fliowers of arrows, darts, and ftones, and at laft forced to retire to a valley ; whence they defigned to return, and try their fortune again : but Lautaro faved them the trouble ; for refolving to make an end of them all at once, and in order to it feigning that he wanted provifions, he fent to our camp to demand fome. His projeft was to let in a river upon the Spa- niard's camp, which he could do conveniently, becaufe it was already in dams and canals ; and fo having made a marfli of the ground where they lodged, fo as they fhould not be able to fl:ir, feize all the pafl'es behind them. But Villagran having difcovered this ftratagem, raifed his camp, and retired to St. Jago, to the great difap- pointment of the enemy. Yet this did not make Lautaro give over his defign ; for confidering that he could not attack St. Jago, which was well provided with men and ammunition, except he had a greater ftrength, he raifed a fort in a valley to cover himfelf, while his fuccours fhould arrive, and enable him to attack St. Jago. Thofe of the city were making, with great care, preparations for their defence ; and had fent for fuccours to all the other cities. Their general Villagran had fent out upon this defign ; and making as if he was going to Arauco, had on a fudden marched to the Imperial, from whence he brought many good men away with him ; and while Lautaro was raifing his fort, Villagran, guided by an Indian, came fwiftly and filently upon Lautaro, and attacked his fort. In the firfl: aflault that was given, Lautaro himiclf fell, wounded by an arrow which ftruck him to the heart ; thus ended that valiant captain of the Arau- canos. His foldiers were not at all difcouraged with this misfortune of their general ; but rather enraged with fuch a lofs, and a defire to revenge his death, they fell like lions upon the Spaniards, taking no quarter at their hands. There were on both fides great aftions performed ; but the refolution of the Indians was the noblefl: in the world, preferring their glory to their lives, which they huibanded fo little, that though they were broke, and but few left in a fighting condition, yet they ran upon the Spaniards' lances, and with their hands pulled them into their bodies, to conic clofe to their ene- my, and revenge their death with his, or at leafl die in the attempt. CHAP, OVALLE S HISTORICAL RELATION OF CHILE. 205 CHAP. XXII. — Don Garcia Hurtado de Mendoga conies to the Government of Chile ; — ■what happened at his Arrival, and in the Engagement he had with the Araucanos. AFTER the death of Pedro de Valdivia, there was application made from Chile to the viceroy of Peru, who is to provide a governor till the king can fend one, that is, both prefident and governor independent of Peru. The viceroy at this time was Don Antonio Hurtado de Mendo9a, marquis of Canete, who governed with great zeal and a prudent feverity, making exemplary punifhments where they were neceflary, by \yhich he fecured the country. He had then with him his fon Don Garcia Hurtado de Mendo9a, who afterwards fucceeded him in his viceroyftup, with as much applaufe and efteem of the world. The embaffadors from Chile defired him of his excellency the father for their governor, which he granted. King Philip the fecond had appointed the Adelantado Hyeronimo de Alderete, to fucceed the governor Pedro de Valdivia, whofe death was known at court ; but the news came likewife that Alderete was dead at the ifland of Taboga near Panama. The viceroy's fon having raifed a good body of horfe, fent fome of them by land with the horfes, and he embarked with the reft ; and after a hard ftorm, in which they had like to have been all loft, he arrived in the bay of the city of the Conception, and landed upon the ifland of Quiriquina, to inform himfelf from thence of the ftate of the country. The people of the ifland, who were fierce and warlike, took arms when they faw the fhips draw near the harbour, and pretended to hinder the Spaniards from landing ; but having no fire-arms, as foon as the cannons of the fhip' began to fire, they gave way. As foon as the governor landed he publifhed the defign of his coming, that the Indians might Iviiow it : which was, to fave their fouls by the predication of the gofpel, and reconcile them to God by the means of baptifm ; and to confer that facrament, he had with him religious men of the famous orders of St. Francis and Mercede : that if they would fubmit to that, he would treat with them in the name of the emperor Charles V. This declaration reached the ears of the Araucanos : and there aflfembled at Arauco fixteen caciques, and many other captains, to treat about what was beft tor them to do in this cafe ; and though many youthful and arrogant fpeeches were made, according to their ufual haughtinefs, which made them defpife all good counfel and peace, yet the old and pru- dent Colocolo reftrained their pride with prudent reafons, and perfuaded them to treat with the Spaniards, fince they were by them invited to do it. " It cannot hurt us, " faid he, " to hear them ; we fhall have our forces as ftrong ftill to maintain our right, if they demand unjuft things. " This opinion was followed by the moft prudent among them ; and they fent for their ambaflTador the Cacique Milalan, a man of great rhetoric and eloquence among them, giving him order to treat with the Spaniards, and obferve well their ftrength ; and that he fliould fhow inclinations to peace, to draw them to land on the continent, and forfake the ifland, hoping that the defire of gold would tempt them to go further into the country. Milalan came to the governor's tent : and making a fmall but civil bow, faluted him, and the other Spaniards that were with him ; then with a chearful countenance he delivered his mefluage. He faid, " that his coun- trymen admitted the terms, of peace that were propofed, and fliould obferve thofe of friend fliip ; not out of any terror or apprehenfion caufed in them by the arrival of thefe new forces : for no power was great enough to terrify them, having fufficiently experienced their ftrength in the fuccefs they had hitherto had : but that which moved them was the compafTion they had for fo many innocent people, fo many women and 2 chil- 2o6 ovalle's historical relation of chile. children, who, upon occafion of this war, remained widows and orphans : that upon fair terms they would own the King of Spain, upon condition that he did not concern himfelf any ways with their Hberty or rights ; that if they had any thought of afting by violence, and making them flaves, they would fooner eat their own children, and kill themfelves, than fuffer it. " The governor anfwered him with all affurance of as good treatment as they expected ; and having made him fome prcfents, difpatched him back to give an account of his embalTy : but this was not fufficient fecurity for either fide ; fo they remained upon their guard. The Indians obferving the caution of the Spaniards, to give them more fecurity, feigned to difmifs their forces, but fecretly gave them orders to ftand upon their guard, and not lay down their arms, but be ready upon any occafion that might happen ; yet the Spaniards for all this did not think fit to land upon the continent, but flayed two months upon the ifland where they firft landed, till the winter was entirely over. About the fpring, they fet on fliore about one hundred and thirty men of the braveft among them, to raife a fort, as they did, upon the top of an hill which overlooks the city of Penco (otherwiie called the city of the Conception). Under the proteflion of this fortrefs, the reft of the Spaniards went out of the ifland, hoping that in a little time, their horfes, which were coming by land, would arrive, having fome news of them ; in ihe mean time they cut wood and fafcines to fortify their camp, the governor and the commanders fliewing an example to the reft in the labour of intrenching themfelves, and cutting of wood, as if they had never done any thing elfe all their life-time. They brought it to perfetlion in a little time, and planted upon it eight field-pieces, with all other neceffary provifions for their defence. The Araucanos, who were watching their motions, no fooner faw them bufy in their fort, but, without- expeding any further proof of their intentions, which they took to be for war, called immediately an allembly, and with all their ftrength came like lions, with a refolution to demolifh the new fort. They took up their poll at Tal- caguano, about two miles from the Spaniards' fort, and about break of day they gave an alarm, and having firft challenged out many Spaniards to fingle combat, they at laft fell on in a body, with no more fear of the cannon-bullets than if they had been of cotton or wool, knowing, that though they received at firft fome damage, it could laft no longer than till the battalions were engaged. With this refolution they fell on like lions, and fome of them got over the fortifications ; amongft whom was Tucapel, who did wonderful adions. Neither were the Spaniards unprepared for them, doing extra- ordinary things, which it were too long to defcribe in particular, though the adlions were fuch as very well deferve it. The Spaniards who were in the ifland and aboard the fliips, hearing of the danger of their companions, came to their aififtance, and by the help of God, who aided them, joined their friends : and then thus united they began to prevail over the Araucanos, who, finding themfelves inferior, and having loft many of their braveft men, began to retreat, all but Tucapel, who having flayed laft, and being forely wounded, yet made his efcape from the Spaniards, whom he left full of admiration of his valour and refolution. About this time the horfes which came from St. Jago arrived, and with them a troop of good horfemen from the Imperial. The enemies muftered all their forces, and the Spaniards went to feek them in the valley of Arauco, where they had another very bloody engagement : the Araucanos fled, or rather retired ; and the Spaniards having taken one prifoner called Cualbarino, they, in order to terrify the reft, cut off both his hands j but the Araucanos were fo far from being terrified by it, that this enraged OVAI,LE*S HISTORICAL RELATION OF CHILE, 207 enraged them the more ; for Gualbarino himfelf being returned to his countrj'men^ went up and down, begging them to revenge the injury done to him, which they all looked upon as their own. Caupolican their general fent to challenge the governor Don Garcia with all his flrength, telling him, that he would flay for him in his camp, which he moved near the SpanilTi camp, which was at Millarapue. He came over night ; and the next day prefented them battle : which was as well difputed as the reft, both fides fighting with extreme valour. The Indians preffed the Spaniards fo hard, that victory had declared for them, had not a Spanifli battalion, in wiiich alone remained all the Spaniards' hopes, charged fo defperately among the Indians, that they were forced to retire, and leave the field to the Spaniards ; but their retreat was with great honour and reputation. It is related, that in this engagement fome of the neigh- bouring Indians were made prifoners : and that though they were put to a moft exquifite torture, to force them to reveal fomething that the Spaniards wanted to know, yet they remained conftant and true to their country, as if they had been infen- fible of pain. The Spaniards had here a confiderable advantage ; for, befides many- dead enemies whom they left upon the fpot, they took twelve prifoners of the chief among the Indians, whom they hanged upon fo many trees for an example to the reft ; and among ihem that fame Gualbarino ; who not only {hewed in dying an intrepid mind, but encouraged the others : and among the reft a Cacique, who began to fear and beg his life ; to" whom Gualbarino fpoke before all with fo much haughtinefs, taxing his bafe cowardice as if he had been the conqueror, and not the conquered^ which ftruck the Spaniards with fuch admiration, that they were befide themfelves. From this place our camp marched to the valley where Valdivia was loft. Here the Spaniards railed a good fort ; from whence they made their excurfions upon the enemy, endeavouring to advance their conquefts, but not without danger of being often cut off; particularly the hazard they ran at a narrow pafs, caufed by the moun- tains on the way to Puren, where they were attacked by the Indians, and very hard fet by them, whom they might have deftroyed if they had not fallen to plunder the baggage ; for a company of Spaniards obferving this mifcarriage, feized on a fpot oa the top of a hill, from whence with their fmall fhot they fo galled the Indians below, that they fled in confufion to avoid fuch a tempeft, leaving the Spaniards mafters of the field, but much weakened : having been forely handled in this rencounter, they retired to their camp, where they were received with great demonftration of joy. After this, leaving a good garriibn in the fort, well provided for two months, the governor went to vifit the other cities, to ftrengthen them, and provide them witfi neceffaries againft all attacks, which they had reafon to fear ; for Caupolican, enraged that in three months he had loft three viftories, had called a general affembly ;. where it was refolved never to give over, but either die or conquer, that they might drive out the Spaniards, and reltore their country to its liberty. CHAP. XXIII. — More Evejiis of War. — The Death and Converfion of Caupolican. CAUPOLICAN followed his defigns, but fortune feemed to be weary of aflifting him ; for in moft rencounters he came off either worfted, or entirely defeated, and the vidory fnatched out of his hands when he thought himfelf fure of it : this made his people begin to grow weary of his command ; and the vulgar began to cenfure his conduft as too remifs, and that the defire of preferving his power, and being general,, made him negled opportunities of putting an end to the war. 2o8 OVALLE S HISTORICAL RELATION OF CHILE. CaupoHcan being informed of thefe fufpicions of his own people, called a new affembly, in which he propofed methods of carrying on the war, fo as they might obtain an entire liberty. This was unanimoufly agreed to, with a firm refolution of not giving it over till they either conquered or died. This refolution coming to the knowledge of the governor Don Garcia Hurtado de Mendoga, who was gone, as we have feen to the city of the Imperial, to fortify it, he difpatched to the fort advice of what pafled, and fent them a competent relief. Amongfl: other defigns pitched upon by Caupolican, the firfl: was to furprize the Spaniards in their fortrefs by a ftratagem before they were aware of him, and fo mafter the placfe. The other captains of repute, Rengo, Orompello, and Tucapel, who were ufed to lead always the van-guard, did not approve of his projedl ; and fo let him go by himfelf with his own forces, they fcorning, as they faid, to obtain a viftory by fraud or furprize. Caupolican fet out then by himfelf; and being come within three leagues of the Spanifh fortrefs, he fent out his fpies to obferve their difpo- fition, and how they might be moft eafily circumvented. He chofe for this purpofe one of his befl captains, whofe name was Pran, a cunning fagacious man, ^and prudent, with a great deal of ready wit. This captain difguifed himfelf; and putting on the habit of an ordinary Indian, he went alone, and without arms, as a private perfon, to the fortrefs of the Spaniards. He entered the fort without fufpicion, or being known by the other friendly Indians, with whom he foon grew acquainted ; and walking up and down, he obferved our camp and forces, and took particular notice of the time of day that our men ufed to be lead upon their guard, which was generally at noon, when they went to fleep, to repair their flrength, which was wafted by their night- watches. There was in the Spanifh fort a young Indian, (not like Lautaro, in whom the love of his country prevailed over his duty to his mafter,) but of another temper ; his name was Andres, fervant to a Spanifli gentleman, and very much inclined to all the Spa- nifli nation. Pran had made a great friendfhip with this young man ; and one day, as they were going together in the fields to feek out fome provifion, as they ufed to do, talking from one thing to another, Pran difcovered himfelf entirely to his friend Andres ; perfuading him to help on the defign he came about, fince upon its fuccefs the liberty of the whole nation depended. Andres, who was not lefs fagacious and prudent than pran, promifed him all he could defire : but diflembled all the while. This being fettled, they agreed, that each of ihem fhould return home to his camp, and that the next day Andres fhould come to a certain poft they agreed on, and there Pran fhould meet him, and carry him to Caupolican's quarters, where he might fettle all matters with him. Pran went back to the Indians' camp, overjoyed that he had iuc- ceeded fo well, as he thought ; he gave a particular account of all the bufinefs to Caupolican, while Andres did the fame to Captain Rcynofo, who commanded in the Spanifh fort. If God Almighty had not by this way delivered the Spaniards out of this imminent danger, they mull have pcrifhed ; for naturally Andres ought to have been of the fide of his own countrymen. According to what had been agreed between them, Andres came the next day to the aflignation, where he met with his friend Pran ; and they went together to Caupo- lican, who received them with all demonftrations of joy and confidence, fhewing him his camp and all his army ; the refult was, that he fhould ailault the Spaniards the next day about noon. Andres went back to the Spaniards, to inform them of all that paffed, and by that Captain Reynofo knew how to difpofe every thing to receive, the attack. Caupolican came at the time appointed with all his Indians, the greateft part of which were ovalle's historical relation of chile. 209 Vere fuffered to enter, the Spaniards making as if they were afleep ; but on a fudden, upon a fign given, they rofe up like lions, and making a furious difcharge on thofe entered, the horfe fallied to engage thofe who had remained without, of whom they made a great flaughter. The furprize of the Indians was fo great, that few of them could make their efcape ; but Caupolican, with ten more, faved himfelf by bye-paths, though he was hotly purfued ; the Indians that were overtaken, ftill denying they knew any thing of him, and neither threats nor gifts could oblige them to reveal what they might know before. But it being very hard there Ihould not be one traitor among many loyal men, the Spaniards light at laft upon one of his foldiers, who was difcontented that he had not been advanced according to his pretenfions, who betrayed to them where he was : this man guided them by a fecret path to a place where they could not be difcovered, and from thence fhewed them a very thick wood, about nine miles from Ongolmo, where in a thicket by a river fide, over a precipice, this brave man had hid himfelf till he could get a new army, and rally his men. The Spaniards came upon him on a fudden, and furprifed him with the few that were with him ; and though he did all that was in his power to defend himfelf, yet they maftered him. His wife feeing him a prifoner, and his hands tied behind him, called him coward, and ufed all the opprobrious language to him that was poffible. Caupolican was defervedly among the Indians the moft valued of their generals ; and accordingly, in an affembly of fixteen Caciques, all fovereign lords, who met to raife an army againfl the Spaniards, he had the chief command given him. This was the man who, with fourfcore bold fellows, furprifed the caftle of Arauco, and overcame the Spaniards in a bloody encounter without the city walls : this was he who durft exped the general Valdivia in open field, and routed him and his whole army, fo as there was not one Spaniard left alive : this was he who deftroyed Puren, and facked Penco, not leaving one ftone upon another in it, the Spaniards having been all frighted away by the terror of his name : this, in fine, was the man who managed all the war with fuch fuccefs, by his military fldll and valour, that his authority was every where re- fpe£l:ed. This great man was new, by the means of a traitor, delivered up to his moft cruel enemies. In this calamity he {hewed no bafenefs ; for though he begged his life, it was in a grave way, promifing, in return, to caufe all the country to fubmit to the King of Spain, and to give way to introduce the Chriftian religion. " Confider," faid he to Captain Reynofo, " that what I promife, J am able to perform, by the great veneration that all my people have for me ; and if thou doft not accept of this proffer, thou wilt do nothing ; fince for one head taken away, there will rife up a hundred Caupolicans to revenge my death, that the true one will not be miffed. I defire not to be fet at liberty, but to remain thy prifoner till I perform my promife." All thefe reafons were of no ufe to CaupoHcan, for he was publicly fentenced to be empaled alive, and fhot to death with arrows, for a terror to the reft of the Indians ; though, as time has fince fliewed, this had no other effeft, than to light the fire of war more and more, and make the wound almoft incurable. He heard this hard fen- tence without any alteration in his countenance ; but he defired with great concern to be baptized. The priefts are fent for, and, after a fhort inftruftion, he receives the holy ablution, and the charafter of a Chriftian. After this, the fentence was executed upon him, which he endured with great conftancy. VOL. XIV. BE The V 2IO ovalle's historical relation of chile. The Conchijion. THOUGH Father Ovalle has continued, in the remainder of his treatife, to give an -account of the various events of the war with the Araucanos, in which narrative he runs through the commands and adtions of all the governors of Chile, to the peace made with that nation ; yet it being by him more a piece of courtfliip to his nation, and to thofe families, than an information inftrudive to a foreign reader, it has been thought proper to take the death of that great general Caupolican for the firfl natural period of that war. In the courfe of the remaining narrative, there are fo many fuperftitious notions inculcated, fo many improbable miracles given for the foundation of great en- terprizes, and fuch a monkifh fpirit runs through the work, that here, in England, it would rather prejudice than recommend the impreffion, and is therefore omitted. ABRIDGED NARRATIVE OF TRAVELS THROUGH THE INTERIOR OF SOUTH AMERICA, From the Shores of the Pacific Ocean to the Coafts of Brazil and Guyana, defcending the River of Amazons j As read by Mr. De la Condamine, Member of the Academy of Sciences at Paris, at a Sitting of that Academy on the 28th April 1745. A T the clofe of March 1743, after a refidence of fix months in a defert, at Tarqui, ^^-^ near Cuenca, in Peru, during which I had inceflantly, night and day, to contend with an atmofphere unfavourable to aftronomy, I learnt from Mr. Bouguer, then near Quito, at the northern extremity of our meridian, that he had there made a feries of obfervations of a ftar, intermediate between our two zeniths, of which obferva- tions many were effected on the fame night : this ftar had been obferved by me at the fouthern extremity of the line. By thefe fmiultaneous obfervations, on the importance of which I had laid much ftrefs, we attained the fmgular advantage of being enabled to afcertain precifely, and beyond difpute, the real amplitude of an arc of the meridian of three degrees, the meafurement of which was known to us geometrically, and this without having any thing to apprehend from variations, whether of an optical or a real nature arifmg from the motion of the ftar, on account of its pofition having been fixed at the fame inflant of time by the two obfervers at the oppofite extremities of the arc. Mr. Bouguer, arriving in Europe fome months before me, communicated the refult at the lafl public meeting of the fociety, a refult correfponding vidth that of the operations at the polar circle * ; as this, with that of the laft effedted in France t, all confpiring to prove that the earth is a fpheroid flattened towards the poles. Taking our departure m the month of April 1735, twelve months earlier than the academicians difpatched to the north, we reached Europe, on our return, by feven years too late, to communicate any thing new refpefting the figure of the earth. This fubje£l, fince then, has been treated by fo many able hands, that I truft for excufe in referring to the memoirs of the academy the detail of my individual obfervations on the matter, renouncing the privi- lege, but too hardly earned, of addrefTmg this affembly on that head. Neither fhall I enlarge here on other academical labours, either individually under- taken, or in common, during our voyage from Europe to America, at the different places of our fojourn after arriving in the province of Quito, and during the frequent intervals occafioned by obftacles of every kind, which but too often delayed the pro- grefs of our operations. To dilate on thefe, irrelative as they were to the meafurement of the earth, would requii-e extrafts from a number of memoirs, which in the fpace of * EfFedlcd by MeflVs. Maupertuis, Clairaut, Camus, and Monnier, of the Royal Parifiaa Academy, in conjundlion with the Abbe Outhier, a correfpondent of that academy, and M. Celfius, allronomical profeflbr at Upfal. t By Meffrs. Caffiui de Thury and L'Abbe de la Caille. s E 2 feven 212 CONDAMINE S TRAVELS feven or eight years have been forwarded to the academy, but of which forae have not arrived in France, while many others have not hitherto appeared, nor even extracts of them, in our coUeftions. I fhall refrain therefore from fpeaking now, of our aftro- nomical or geometrical conclufions on the latitude and longitude of a great many places ; of our obfervation of the two folftices in December 1736, and in June 1737 ; of the obliquity of the ecleptic which they determine ; of our experiments on the thermometer and barometer ; on the declination and dipping of the needle, on the fwiftnefs of found, on Newtonian attraftion, on the length of the pendulum in the province of Quito, at different heights from the level of the fea, and on the expan- fion and condenfion of metals ; I fhall carefully abftain from notice of the two journeys made by me, the one in 1736, from the coart of the South-Sea to Quito, afcending the river of Emeralds ; the other in 1737, from Quito to Lima. Finally, I Ihall not advert here to the hiftory of the two pyramids which I caufed to be erected for the purpofe of determining in perpetuity the two extremities of the fun- damental bafe of all our meafures, and of thus remedying thofe inconveniences which were but too lamentably experienced in France, from want of a fimilar precaution, when the bafe of M. Picard was to be verified. The infcription propofed to the Aca- demy of Belles I.ettres, before our departure and afterwards, with thofe alterations which circumftances of time and place required, placed on the pyramid, was denounced by the two lieutenants of the navy of the King of Spain, our coadjutors, as offenfive to His Catholic Majefty, and the Spanifh nation. I defended, for two years, a law- fuit inftituted againfl myfelf perfonally on this fcore, and at lafl; gained it, though oppofed by the parliament of Quito. What paffed on this occafion, and divers other interefttng events on our travels, which diflance has much difigured, are better calcu- lated to form an hiflorical narrative than an academical memoir ; in this I now prefent I fhall confine myfelf to what relates to my return to Europe. In order to multiply our opportunities of making obfervations, M. Godin, M. Bouguer, and myfelf, planned different routes for our return. For my part I refolved on felecling one, almofl; unknown, and fuch as I felt perfuaded no one would envy me, that of the river of Amazons, a river which croffes the whole continent of South- America, from weft to eaft, and which juftly paffes for the largeft in the world. I propofed to render a voyage on this river of utility, by forming a chart of its courfe, and by remarks on fuch objeds as a country fo little known might afford. Such as relate to the manners and fingular cuftoms of the nations which inhabit its banks, would doubtlefs be moft gratifying to the majority of readers ; but, in prefence of an affembly with whom phyfics and geometry are familiar, I deem it inadmiffible I fhould dilate on matters foreign to the objeft of its meeting : neverthelefs, that I may be better comprehended, 1 cannot difpenfe with giving fome preliminary notion of the river in queftion, and its firft navigators. It is commonly believed that the firft European who difcovered the river of Amazons, was Francis d' Orellana. He embarked in 1539 on the river Coca, in the vicinage of Quito, a river which fomewhat below affumes the name of Napo ; from this, river, he defcended into one of larger fize ; and, fuffering his veffel to be carried along conftantly by the current, he arrived without any pilot at the North Cape, on the coaft of Guyana, after a voyage, by eftimation, of 1800 leagues. The fame Orellana periflied ten years afterwards, together with three veffels cntrufted to his command by Spain, without ever being able again to find the true mouth of the river. A ren- counter which he ftates to have had with certain armed women, againft whom an Indian Cacique had previoufly warned him, occafioned his naming this river, that of 9 the IN SOUTH-AMERICA. SIJ the Amazons. Some writers call it Orellana, but previous to this denomination it was already known by that of Marafion from another Spanlfh captain. Geographers, who reprefent the Amazons and the Maraiion as different rivers, following, as did Laet, the authority of Garcilafo and Herrera, were undoubtedly ignorant, not only that the moft antient Spanifh authors* denominated the river we fpeak of Marafion, as early as 1513, but alfo that Orellana himfelf in his narrative fays, that he met with the Amazons on defcending the Maranon, an identification which puts difpute at reft ; in fadt this name of Marafion has uninterruptedly been preferved throughout its courfe, and from its very origin, in Upper Peru, by the Spaniards, during more than two centuries. Still, the Portuguefe, eftabliflaed fince the year 161 6 at Para, an epifcopal city at the moft eaftern mouth of this river, in this part know it by no other name than that of the Amazons, giving it the title of Solimoes on afcending it higher up, and transferring the denomination Maraiion, or as fpelt in their language Maranhao, to a city and whole province, or captaincy, adjoining that of Para. I fhall ufe indif- ferently the names Maranon and Amazons in fpeaking of this river. In 1568, Pedro de Urfoa, difpatched by the viceroy of Peru in fearch of the famous Gold Lake of Parima, and the town El Dorado, fuppofed to exift in the vicinity of the Amazons river, fell into this river from one flowing into it on the fouthern fide, one of which I ftiall fpeak in its place. Tne fate of Urfoa was ftill more tragical than that of his predeceffor Orellana. Urfoa periflied by the hands of Aguire, a pri- vate foldier, who rebelled and declared himfelf king. This man afterwards defcended the river by a long route, which to this day is not clearly known, marking his courfe by pillage and murder, and terminating his career by being flayed alive in the ifland of Trinidad. Voyages like thefe afforded no great information refpefting the courfe of the river ; other governors, in after- time, repeated attempts for this purpofe, but with as httle fuccefs. The Portuguefe were more fortunate than the Spaniards. Pedro Texeira, in 1638, a century after Orellana, placed by the governor of Para at the head of a numerous detachment of Portuguefe and Indians, afcended the Ama- zons river to where it receives the Napo, and afterwards proceeded up that river itfelf to the neighbourhood of Quito, whither he repaired by land, accompanied by feme of the Portuguefe under his orders. He met with a favourable reception from the Spa- niards, the two nations at that junfture being fubjedt to one lord. The next year he returned, by the fame channel, to Para, in company with Father Acuiia, and Father Artieda, appointed to render account of the particulars of the voyage to the court of Madrid. They eftimated their courfe from the hamlet of Napo, the fpot at which they embarked, to Para, at 1356 Spanifh leagues f. The narrative of this voyage was printed at Madrid in 1640. The French tranflation efieded in 1682 by M. de Gomberville is in the hands of every one. The very defedive chart of the courfe of this river, publifhed by Sanfon from this purely hiftorical narrative, was afterwards, for want of new memoirs, copied by all Succeeding geographers, none more correal appearing in France before the year 1717. At this time, in the twelfth volume of Lettres edifiantes, &c. was firft publifhed a copy of the chart engraved at Quito in 1707, but planned as early as 1690 by Father Fritz, a German Jefuit miffionary on the banks of the Maraiion, the courfe of which river he had traced throughout its whole length. From this chart was difcovered that • Pedro Martyr, Fernan de Encifo, Fernandez de Oviedo, Pedro Ciega, Auguftin Larate. f At 15 to the degree, 6255 Britifh flatute miles. the 214 condamine's travels the Napo, efteemed the main fource of the river, was merely tributary, and that the Amazons itfelf, under the denomination of Marafion, iflued from a lake near Guanuco, thirty leagues from Lima. But Father Fritz, deftitute of pendulum or telefcope, was enabled to determine no one longitudinal point, and for afcertaining the latitudes he had merely a fmall wooden femicircle of three inches radius ; he was moreover ill, as he fell down the river near Para. One need only read his manufcript journal, of which I have a copy taken from the original in the archives of the college of Quito, to fee that numerous obltacles, both at that time and on return to his ftation, prevented his making thofe obfervations requifite for rendering his chart exad, efpe- cially towards the lower part of the river. This chart is merely accompanied by a few notes on the map itfelf, without any hiftorical detail, fo that, in faft, to this time Europe remains, with refpecl to the countries through which the river of Amazons takes its courfe, as deftitute of information as it was left a century ago, after the nar- rative of Father Acuna *. The Maranon iffuing from its parent lake, in 1 1° of latitude fouth, direfts its courfe northward to Juan de Bracomoros, through a fpace of fix degrees : thence it bends eaftward, in a line nearly parallel to the equator, to the North Cape, difemboguing its waters into the ocean under the line itfelf, after traverfing from Taen, where it begins to be navigable, nearly thirty degrees of longitude or 750 common leagues; or, computing its windings, from 1 000 to 1 1 00 leagues !• From the north, as well as from the fouth, it receives a prodigious number of rivers, many flowing through an extent of five or fix hundred leagues, and feveral of them equalling in volume the Danube or the Nile. The banks of the Maranon, more than a century back, were peopled with a great variety of nations, who withdrew to the interior at fight of Europeans. In the prefent day merely a few alTemblages of natives are to be feen themfelves, or their immediate predeceflors, recently drawn from their native woods by the Spanifli miffionaries in the upper portion, and by thofe of Portugal, in the lower divifion of the river. Three roads communicate between the province of Quito and that of Maynas, which gives its diftintlion to the Spanifh miffions on the Maranon. Thefe roads traverfe that famous chain of fnow-capped mountains termed Las Cordilleras de los Andes. The firft of thefe roads, almoil immediately under the line, eaftward of Quito, leads by Archidona to the Napo : this was the road traced by Texeira on his return from Quito, and by Father Acuila. The fecond road is through a gorge below the Volcano of Tonguragua in ij" ot latitude fouth: it leads to the diftrifl; of Canelos acrofs nume- rous torrents, the junction of which forms the river Pafta9a, a river that falls into the Marafion one hundred and fifty leagues higher up than the Napo. Thefe two roads are thofe commonly travelled by the miftionaries of Quito, the only Europeans by whom thefe countries are frequented ; for the communication between them and the neighbouring province of Quito is rendered almoft impradlicable by the Cordilleras, which are paftable but for a tew months in the year. The third road is by Juan de Bracomoros in 5f of latitude fouth, where the Marafion begins to be navigable for boats. This lait is the only road by which beafts of burthen can travel to the place of embarkation. The two preceding require a march of many days on foot, and on thefe every thing muft be carried by Indians ; neverthelefs the laft road is that the leaft frequented, as much on account of the long circuit it requires, and the conftant * The work entitled El Maranon o Amazonas, 1684, is of no value. f According to the cl.art, about 2350 Britirti miles, 1000 leagues (25 to a degree) is 3768 Britifh miles. rains IN soutii-ameriCa. 215 ' rains to which the traveller is fubjeft on the way, and which render the roads almofl; impaffable even in the finefl; feafon, as of the difficulty and danger attending the cele- brated pafs on quitting the Cordilleras called Pongo. Principally that I might furvey this pafs, which is never fpoken of at Quito without admiration and dread, and that I might lay down on my chart the whole navigable extent of the river, I feletled of the three roads, the laft. I left Tarqui, the fouthern extremity of our meridian, five leagues fouth of Cuenca, on the I ith of May 1743. On my journey to Lima in 1737, I travelled the cultom- ary road from Cuenca to Loxa ; on this occafion I went by a circuitous one, paffing by Zaruma, in order to place that fpot on my map. I ran fome rifk in fording the great river Los Jubones, then much fwoUen, and always very rapid, but by chofing this courfe I avoided a greater ; as I have fmce been given to underftand, affaffins em- ployed by the authors of, or accomplices in the murder of our furgeon, laid in wait for me on the high road from Cuenca to Loxa. From a mountain over which I pafled on my way to Zaruma, Tumbez is diflin- guifhed, a port on the South-Sea, at which the Spaniards effeded their firft landing, fouth of the line, on their expedition for the conqueft of Peru. From this point it was that I began to turn my back on the South-Sea, and take an eaftward courfe acrofs- the continent of South-America. This place was formerly celebrated for its mines, now almoft abandoned. The gold extracted is much alloyed, being no more than fourteen carats fine ; it is mingled with fdver, and very du<5tile. At Zaruma the barometer ftood at 24 inches two lines ; unlike in our climates, beneath the torrid zone it is fubjedl to little variation ; for at Quito we found that the extreme difference, in the fpace of feveral years, did not exceed a line and a half. Mr. Godin was the firll who remarked that the variations of the barometer, which in the courfe of four and twenty hours extend to about a line, are fubjett to pretty regu- lar alterations, which, once known, allow the afcertainment of the mean height of the mercury by a fingle experiment. The different experiments made by me on the fhores of the South-Sea, and thofel repeated on my journey co Lima, fatisfied me what this mean height was at the level of the fea, whence I was enabled to affign with tole- rable exadfitude an elevation of 700 toifes (about 4400 Englifli feet), to the territory about Zaruma, an elevation not half fo great as that of the land about Quito. In this calculation I made ufe of atable computed by M. Bouguer, after an hypothefis, which has hitherto correfponded better than any other with experiments made with the barometer, and verified by trigonometrical meafurement. I came from Tarqui, a region rather cold, and experienced great warmth at Zaruma, notwithftanding I was fcarcely lefs elevated there than on Mont Pelce, in Martinico, where we found the cold fevere, afcending from a low and warm country. I prefuppofe here that the reader is apprized already of our having conftantly obferved, during our long fojourn in the province of Quito, under the equinoftial line, that the elevation of the foil almofh exclufively determines the degree of heat, and that it does not require one ihould afcend fo high as 2000 toifes Tabout 1 2,600 Englifh feet), from a valley parched by intenfe heat, to reach the foot of mafies of fnow, antient as the globe itfelf, with which a neighbouring mountain is crowned. On my way, I croffed many bridges made with cords, bark of trees, or lianas. Thefe lianas, netted together, form an aerial gallery, which is fufpended from two large cables of fimilar materials, the extremities of which are faftened to branches of trees on oppofite banks. ColleQively, the whole of thefe f!ngular bridges refembles a fiiher's net, or rather an Indian hammock, extending from one to the other fide of the river. 10 As ai6 gondamine's travels As the mefhes of this net are very wide, and \¥ould fufFer the foot to go between them, a fort of flooring is fuperimpofed, confifting of branches and fhrubs. It will readily be conceived, that the weight of this net-work, but efpecially that of the paflenger, mufl: give a confiderable curve to the bridge ; and when, in addition, one refleds that the traveller pafling it is expofed to great ofcillations, to which it is incident, particularly when the wind is high, and he reaches near the middle, this kind of bridge, which is oftentimes thirty fathoms long, mud needs have fomething frightful in its afpeft : the natives, however, who are far from being naturally intrepid, pafs fuch bridges on the trot, with their loads on their flioulders, together with the faddles of the mules, which crofs the river by fwimming, and laugh at the timidity of the traveller who hefitates to venture. But this is not the moft Angular nor mofl; dangerous fort of bridge in the country ; I fhall, however, omit defcription of the reft, that I may not wander too far from my fubjeft. I repeated, on pafling Loxa, my obfervations on the latitude, and the height of the mercury on the barometer, and therefults agreed with thofe obtained, in 1737, on my journey to Lima. Loxa is lefs elevated than Quito by about 350 toifes, and the heat is there fenfibly greater. The neighbouring mountains are but paltry hills compared with thofe of the neighbourhood of Quito ; but, neverthelefs, their ridges are the par- tition-lines of the courfes of rivers ; and the very hill on which the bed Quinquina grows, two leagues fouth of Loxa, and called Caxanuma, gives birth to ftreams which flow weftward to the fouthern ocean, and eaftward, after merging in the Maraiion, to the Atlantic. The 3d of June, I fpent the whole day on one of thefe mountains ; though aflifted by two Americans of the neighbourhood, whom I took with me for guides, I was able to coUett no more than eight or nine young plants of Quinquina in a proper ftate for tranfportation. Thefe I caufed to be planted, in earth taken from the fpot, in a cafe of fuitable fize, and had them carried on the fhoulders of a man conftantly in my fight, to the place at which I embarked, hoping to preferve, at leaft, fome of the plants, to leave under charge at Cayenne, if they fhould not, on my arrival there, be in fit con- dition for tranfporting to France for the King's garden. Between Loxa and Jaen, the left hills of the Cordilleras are paflTed. The road, on almoft all this journey, lays through woods, where rain is fo inceflant, that it prevails eleven and fometimes the whole twelve months of the year, fo that nothing can be kept dry. The bafliets covered with ox-hides, which are the packages ufed in the country, rot, and exhale an intolerably offenfive fmell. I paflfed by two towns, which now have only their names, Loyola, and Valladolid ; both, a century back, were opulent, and teeming with Spaniards ; but, at prefent, they are reduced to wretched hamlets of Americans or Meftees, and removed from their original fite. Jaen itfelf, which is ftyled a city, and fliould be the refidence of the governor, is now but a mifer- able village. Such, indeed, has been the general fate of the major part of thefe towns of Peru, built at a diftance from the fea, and out of the high road from Carthagena to Lima. On this route I crofled a variety of rivers, fome by fording, others by means of bridges fimilar to that I have defcribed ; others again on rafts, conftrucled on the fpot of the timber with which nature has prodigally filled all thefe forefts. Thefe rivers united form one of great breadth and rapidity, called Chinchipe, fuperior in volume to the Seine. I defcended it the fpace of five leagues on a raft to Tomependa, an Ame- rican village, within fight of Jaen, in a pleafant pofition at the confluence of three great rivers, the middlemoft of which is Maranon. On the fouthern fide it receives the Chachapoyas, on the weftern that of Chinchipe, down which I floated. This IN SOUTH AMERICA. 217 This jundUon of the three rivers takes place in latitude 5|^fouth; and from this point, notwithftanding many windings, the main courfe of the Maraiion conftantly approaches nearer, and more near the line till its mouth. Below this fame point the river narrows, and forces itfelf a paffage between two mountains, at a fpot where the violence of its current, the rocks in its bed, and a number of falls, render it unnavi- gable ; what is called the port of Jaen, the place where the traveller embarks, being four days' journey from Jaen on the little river Chuchunga, which merges in the Ma- ranon below the falls. However, notwithftanding the imagined imprafticability of pafs- ing the catarafl:, an exprefs difpatched by me from Tomependa, with orders from the governor of Jaen to his lieutenant at Sant Yago to forward a boat for me to the port, overcame every obftacle on a little raft, compofed of two or three pieces of timber, a float fufficiently large for a naked American, expert as they all are at fwimming. In my way from Jaen to the port, 1 croffed the Maraiion, and frequently found myfelf on its banks. Within the interval between the above town and its port, the Maraiion re- ceives a number of torrents from the north, which, in the rainy feafon, bring down with them a fand mingled with fmall plates and grains of gold. At this feafon the natives go to collect it, but they merely feek for what is neceflary to pay their tribute or poll-tax, and when urgently obliged ; at any other feafon, they would rather tram- ple under foot this coveted metal, than take the pains of colledting and cleaning it. Throughout the whole of this diftrid, both fides of the river are covered with the wild cocoa-trees, the fruit of which is nothing inferior to the cultivated, but on which, alfo, the natives fet as little value as on the gold. The fourth day after my departure from Jaen, I paffed the torrent Chuchunga, one and twenty times by fording, and the laft time in a boat ; the mules, on reaching the river, dalhed into the water, laden as they were, and, in confequence, all my inftru- ments, books, and papers, were thoroughly wetted. This was the fourth accident of the kind which I had experienced in travelling among the mountains, my cafualties from water never ceafmg until I was fairly embarked on that element. Chuchunga is an hamlet containing half a fcore American families, governed by their Cacique, who underftood about as many Spanifh words as I did of his native language. I was under neceflity of leaving behind me at Jaen two fervants of the country, who might have afted for me as interpreters ; and neceflity enabled me to manage without them. The inhabitants of Chuchunga poflefled no other than fmall canoes fuited to their purpofes, and that I had fent for by exprefs to Sant Yago could not arrive in lefs than a fortnight, I therefore engaged the Cacique to caufe his people to frame a raft for me, or, as termed by them, a Balfe, the fame word denoting as well the float itfelf as the fpecies of wood of which it is conftrufted ; direfting him to make it large enough for myfelf, my inftruments, and baggage. The time occupied in preparing the Balfe, afforded me leifure to dry my books and papers, flieet by fheet, a precaution as necef- fary as it was tedious. The fun was vifible only about noon, but this glimpfe of it enabled me to take an altitude, which gave for the latitude 5° 2i'fouth; and from the barometer, fixteen lines lower than at the fea-fide, I gathered that at 235 fathoms above its level, &c. ; navigable rivers occur without being interrupted by falls : I am far from inclined to aflert, that this is not the cafe with the Maraiion at a ftill greater elevation, but I can only fpeak pofitively of what I know ; though it appears far from improbable, that the fpot at which a river begins to be navigable for boats, the courfe of which river to the fea is even from here more than a thoufand leagues, fliould be more elevated above the level of the ocean than that where navigation com- mences on rivers of Ihorter courfe. VOL. XIV. F F ' On 2i8 condamine's travels On the 4th of July, in the afternoon, I went on board a fmall two-oared canoe, preceded by the Balfe, and efcorted by all the Indians of the hamlet. They were up to the middle in the water for the purpofe of guiding the Balfe through difficult chan- nels, and preferving it from rocks, and down the gentle falls, from the violence of the current. The fucceeding day, after a very tortuous courfe, I entered the Maraiion about four leagues north of the fpot where I embarked. Here it is the Maranon begins to be navigable. It now became neceflary to enlarge and ftrengthen the raft, which, before, had been proportioned to the bed of the river I had floated down. During the night, the river rofe ten feet, and rendered neceflary a hafty removal of a bower which had ferved me for fhelter, and which the natives raife with marvellous Ikill and promp- titude. In this fpot I was detained three days by advice, or rather by order of the guides, on whom I was obliged to rely. They had in confequence full leifure to pre- pare the Balfe, and I alfo to make obfervations. I meafured the breadth of the river trigonometrically, and, though narrower than before by froni 15 to 20 toifes, I found it 135 toifes wide*. Many rivers which it receives above Jaen are much broader, which made me conclude its depth to be very confiderable : in fad, though I founded with 28 toifes of cord, this did not reach its bottom at a third of its breadth from the fide. In the middle of the fliream I was unable to obtain foundings, as a canoe in this part was carried along at the rate of a fethom and a half in a fecond. The barometer, higher by four lines than at the port, indicated the level of the river to be lower by 50 toifes than at Chuchunga, from which place I had been but eight hours in defcend- ing. At the fame place, I found the latitude 5° i' fouth. On the 8th, I continued my route, and paflfed the fl:rait of Cumbinamba, dangerous on account of the fl;ones with which it is filled. It is fcarcely 20 toifes broad. The next day I came to that of Efcarrebragas, which is one of a different defcription. The river, arrefl:ed in its courfe by the fide of a fl:eep rock, againft which it ftrikes, is di- verted fuddenly, fo as to form a right-angle with its former direction. The fliock of the tide, rendered more impetuous by the narrownefs of the channel, has hollowed a deep bay, where the waters of the margin, feparated by the rapidity of the mid-ftream, are kept back. My raft, on which at that time I happened to be driven by the cur- rent into this bay, for an hour and fome minutes, was inceflantly whirled about, the fport of eddies. The waters, as they revolved, bore me towards the mid llream, where the waves, occafioned by the revulfion of the eddies, would infallibly have overwhelmed a fmall canoe ; the fize and folidity of the float fecured it from this danger, but repeat- edly did the force of the current drive me back to the bottom of the bay, from which I was indebted for my ultimate releafe to the flvill of four Americans, whom I had re- tained with a fmall canoe in cafe of accident. Thefe, navigating their bark along the margin, climbed the rock, from which, with much difficulty, they threw Lianas, the fubfl;itutes in this country for cords, on board the raft, and, by means of thefe, dragged it into the current. The fame day, I pafled a third ilrait, called Guaracayo, in which the bed of the river, confined between two immenfe rocks, is only thirty toifes broad ; this ftrait is dangerous only at the period of great fwells. On the evening of the fame day, I met the large canoe from Sant Yago ; but it would have taken it fix days more to have reached the fpot from which I had fallen down fince the morning, and which had taken me only ten hours. * 840 Englifh feet wide ; depth upwards of 175 feet ; diftance from the fea more than 2,600 Briti(h miles . 9 On IX SOUTH AMERICA. 219 On the loth, I arrived at Sant Yago de las Montafias, a hamlet fituate at the mouth of the river of fimilar name, and built from the ruins of a tovra which had given de- nomination to the river. The banks of it are inhabited by an American nation called Xibaros, formerly Chriftians, but who Ihook off the Spanifh yoke a century ago, to efcape from the toil exafted from them in working the gold mines of their country : ever fince, fecluded in inacceffible woods, they preferve themfelves independent, and impede the navigation of this river, by which it would be eafy to fall down in the fpace of a week, from the vicinage of Loxa and Cuenca, the tranfit whence had taken me two months. The dread infpired by thefe Indians has twice obliged the inhabitants of Sant Yago to change their abode, and, in courfe of the laft forty years, to defcend to the fpot where that river empties itfelf into the Maraiion. Below Sant Yago is Borja, a town of much the fame ftamp as the preceding, though the capital of the government of Maynas, a government which comprehends all the Spanilh miffions on the banks of the Maraiion. Borja is divided from Sant Yago merely by the famous Pongo de Manferiche. Pongo, anciently Poncu, fignifies in the Peruvian language a gate. It is a term, in this language, given to all narrow pafles, but to this as a mark of excellence. This ftrait is a road worked for itfelf by the Maraiion in its paffage eaftward, after a courfe of two hundred leagues towards the north and the mountains of the Cordilleras, its bed being dug between two parallel ■walls of rock almoft perpendicular. Little more than a century has elapfed fince certain Spanifh foldiers of Sant Yago difcovered this paffage, and went through it. Two Je- fuit miflionaries followed them fhortly after, and, in 1639, founded the miflion of Maynas, which extends to a confiderable diflance down the river. Arrived at Sant Yago, I hoped to crofs over to Borja the fame day, and, indeed, an hour would have carried me thither, but fpite of reiterated exprefles, fpite of the orders and recommend- ations with which we were conftantly well provided, but which were fo feldom duly attended to, the timber of the large raft with which I was to pafs the Pongo was not yet felled. I contented myfelf with ftrengthening mine by a new fence, with which I caufed it to be furrounded, to enable it to refift the firfl effed of the almofl inevit- able fliocks to which the rafts, from their mode of flruOure, and being without any rudder, are unavoidably liable in the windings of the ftrait. As for the canoes, they are fo light, that they are guided by the fame paddles with which they are rowed. I was unable to overcome the repugnance of my mariners to attempt the paffage on the day after my arrival, owing to the waters, as they faid, not being fufficiently low. All I could induce them to, was to crofs over to the oppofite fide, there to wait a fa- vourable opportunity in a fmall bay at the entrance of the Pongo ; in this, the violence of the current is fuch that, although properly fpeaking there be no cataraft, the waters feem to plunge, while the fhock of them, as they dafh againft the rocks, deafens the ear with its tremendous noife. The four Americans who had followed me thus far from the port of Jaen, lefs foH- citous than I of a near view of the Pongo, proceeded onwards by a footpath, or rather a ftaircafe cut in the rock, to wait for me at Borja. In confequence, this night, as the preceding, I was left on the raft wiih no other companion than an old negro Have. Lucky for me it was, that I determined on not leaving him alone, as I was threatened with an accident perhaps without a parallel. The river, which in thirty-fix hours fell five and twenty feet, ftill continued vifibly to fink. In the middle of the night, the fplinter of an immenfe branch of a tree, concealed under water, penetrated between the timbers of my raft, and, in proportion as the waters abated of their height, became more deeply entangled, fo that, had I not been prefent and awake, I fhould in F F 2 all ■no C0NDA3I1NE S TUAVELS all probabil'ty have been left on the raft, fubtended in the air by the branch ; in whicf* cafe, the lighteft misfortune I fhould have incurred, would have been the lofs of my journals and obfervations, the fruit of eight years' toil. I fucceeded, fortunately, in dif- engaging the raft, and fetting it again on float. I availed myfelf of my obligatory ftay at Sant Yago to meafure trigonometrically the breadth of the two rivers, and to take the angles required to enable me to draw a topographical chart of the Pongo. The I 2th July, at noon, I caufed the raft to be unmoored, and pulhed from fhore ; foon I found myfelf carried along by the ftream in a deep and narrow gallery, formed by two walls of rock, in fome parts flanting, but in others perpendicular ; in lefs than an hour, I was tranfported to Borja, three leagues, according to common computa- tion, from Sant Yago. However, the Balfe, which did not draw half a foot of water, and which, from the bulk of its loading, prefented to the air a refiftance feven or eight times as great as that it oppofed to the current, did not confeqnently proceed with equal velocity to that of the current itfelf ; and this velocity diminiflies materially as the chan- nel increafes towards Borja. In the narroweft part I reckoned, that, comparing the fpeed of our courfe with that on former occafions, which I had meafured trigono- metrically, in the narroweft part, we were carried along at the rate of two toifes in a fecond. The channel of Pongo, hollowed by the hand of nature, begins a fhort leagne be- low Sant Yago, narrowing gradually till, from 250 toifes, the breadth at the junction of the two rivers, it diminiflies in the narroweft part to twenty-five. I know very well, that the breadth hitherto afcribed to the narroweft part of the Pongo, is only five and ' twenty Varas, equivalent fcarcely to ten of our toifes ; and that the paflage from Sant Yago is faid to be efftfted in a quarter of an hour. P'or my part, I remarked that, in the very narroweft part, I was at leaft thrice the length of my raft from either fide» I moreover obferved by my watch, that we were fifty-fe\en minutes in fpeeding from the entrance of the ftrait to Borja, and all combined, I found the meafures as I have given them ; and, however well inclined to ftiew a deference to the opinion commonly re- ceived, I can fcarcely admit the diftance from Sant Yago to Borja, inftead of three, as computed, to be even fo much as two leagues, of twenty to a degree. I ftruck twice or thrice with violence againft the rocks in courfe of the different windings, an accident calculated, but for being forewarned of the little danger thence to be apprehended, to create no fmall portion of alarm. A canoe on fuch an occa- fion would be daftied into a thoufand pieces ; and the fpot w;is pointed out to me^ as I pafled along, where a governor of Maynas thus met deftrudion : but the beams of the raft being neither nailed nor dovetailed together, the flexibility of the Lianas, by which they are faftened, have the efteft of a fpring, and deadens the fliock fo, that when the ftrait is paffed in a raft, thefe percuflrons occur unheeded. The greateft danger for thefe is, their being liable to be driven out of the ftream into eddies, an accident which, as related above, it w as my lot to experience. Not a year had elapfed before fmce a milfionary, drawn thus into a vortex, was kept in it for two days defti- tute of provifions ; and, but for a fudden fwell of the river, which brought him again into the current, he might there have periflied of hunger. The Pongo is never at- tempted in a canoe, except when the waters are fo low as to admit its being fteered. without being overpowered by the ftream. Canoes alfo ftem the current when the waters are at their loweft, and afcend ; but this is imprafticable for Balfes. At Borja, I found myfelf in a new world, feparate from all human intercourfe, on a frefli water fea, furrounded by a maze of lakes, rivers, and canals, penetrating in every IN SOUTH AMERICA. 321 every diredtion the gloom of an immenfe foreft, which but for them were forbidden to accefs. New plants, new animals, and new races of men, were exhibited to view. Accuftomed during feven years to mountains loft in clouds, I was wrapt in admiration at the wide circle embraced by the eye, reftrifted here by no other boundary than the horizon, fave where the hills of Pongo, foon about to difappear, raifed themfelves to checquer the conftant monotony of the fcene. To the crowd of varying objeds which diverlify the cultured fields of Quito, and which ftill prefented themfelves to the ima- gination, fucceeded the moft uniform contraft, the whole to be feen being verdure and water ; for the earth is fo thickly covered with tufted plants and bulhes, that it is trod, but not perceived ; to find a barren fpace, though but a foot fquare, requiring a world of toil. Below Borja, and 4 or 500 leagues beyond, on falling down the river, a ftone, nay a pebble, is an objefl: rare as a diamond. The favages of thefe countries indeed have no conception of ftones, and when, on vifiting Borja, they firft perceive them, the wonder they occafion is admirable to behold ; every gefture tokens furprife ; they collefl: them together, and load themfelves with the precious burden, till, begin- ning to notice their abundance, they finally difregard, and throw them away. Before I proceed farther, I deem it right to fay a word of the genius and character of the primitive inhabitants of South America, irnproperly called Indians, in fpeaking of whom, I mean to include neither the Spanifh or Portuguefe Creols, nor the various races produced by a mixture of Europeans with the blacks of Africa, or the red men of America, fince the eftabllfhment of the firft in the country, and the introduffion by them of the Negroes of Guinea. All the old natives of the country are of a tawny colour, inclining to a I'ed of different fhades of brightnefs ; the difference in the ftiades arifing probably in a great degree from the varying temperature of the climate they inhabit, which embrace the intenfe heat of the torrid zone with the cold of the vicinage of fnow. This variety of climates ; the wooded countries, plains, mountains, and rivers, which different fites afford ; a difference of aliment ; the little intercourfe fubfifting between neighbouring nations, and numerous other caufes, muft neceflarily have introduced a variety in the occupations, as in the cuftoms of thefe people. Again, it will readily be conjedtured that a nation, become Chriftian, and fubject during a century or two to the Spanilh or Portuguefe yoke, muft, of confequence, have adopted fomewhat of the manners of its conquerors, and that an American inhabitant of a town or village in Peru, for example, muft differ from the favage of the interior, and even from a new inhabitant of thofe countries in which miffions are eftabliflied on the Maranon. In order, therefore, to prefent an exaft idea of the American people, almoft as many de- fcriptions are requifite as there are nations ; however, as in Europe all nations, not- withftanding diftind languages, manners, and cuftoms, have yet fomewhat in common to the eyes of an Afiatic who examines them with attention, fo do all the Americans of the different countries I had opportunity of noticing in the courfe of my travels, prefent features of refemblance, the one to the other, indeed (with exception of light fliades of difference, fcarcely to be diftinguiflied by a paffmg obferver,) I fancied in all alike a finular bafe of charafter. Infenfibility among thefe people is generally prevalent, which, whether to be dig- nified by the name of apathy, or funk in that of ftupidity, I leave to the decifion of others. Undoubtedly it is caufed by the paucity of their ideas, which extend no farther than their wants. Voracious gluttons, where means of fatiety exift ; when want enforces fobriety they patiently bear with abftinence, and feem to be void of care. Pufilla- nimous and timid in extreme, unlefs when tranfported by drunkennefs ; inimical to toil ; 1 2 indifferent 222 CONDAMINe's TRAVELS indiflferent to every itnpulfe of glory, honor, or gratitude ; wholly engrofled and deter- mined by the objefl: of the moment, without concern for the future ; deftitute of fore- fight and refleflion ; and giving themfelves up, when nothing prevents them, to a childifli joy, which they manifeft by leaping, and loud burfls of laughter, with no apparent objeft ; they pafs their lives without thought, and fee old age advance, yet unremoved from childhood, and preferving all its faults. Were this the pifture merely of the Indians of fome provinces of Peru, who may be regarded as flaves, the want of civilization might be afcribed to the degeneracy incident on their fervile ftate ; for the degradation to which flavery is capable of reducing man, is fufficiently exemplified in the prefent condition of the Greek nation : But the Americans of the country of the miflions, and the favages free from all con- troul of Europeans, fhewing themfelves equally limited, not to fay ftupid, with the others, the reafoning mind cannot but feel humiliation, contemplating how little man, in a ftate of nature, and deftitute of inftruftion and fociety, is removed in condition from beafts. All the languages of South- America with, which I am acquainted, are very poor; many poffefs energy, and are fufceptible of elegance, efpecially the antient language of Peru ; but they are univerfally barren of terms for the expreffion of abftraft or uni- verfal ideas, an evident proof of the flight progrefs of intelleft among thefe people. Time, duration, fpace, entity, fubftance, matter, corporeity ; thefe are words v.hich, with many others, have no equivalent in their languages. Not only metaphyfical terms, but alfo moral attributes, require long periphrafes to be exprefled, though with them, in but an imperfefl: manner. They have no words that correfpond exaftly with virtue, juftice, liberty, gratitude ingratitude ; a fadt with which it feems difficult to reconcile what Garcilafo relates of the policy, induftry, arts, government and ge- nius of the antient Peruvians. Unlefs the love he bore his country induced him to exaggerate, we muft needs allow that thefe people have greatly degenerated from their anceftors. As for the other nations of South-America, they are not known to have ever emerged from their priftine barbarifm. I have formed a vocabulary of the moft common words in different American lan- guages. A comparifon of thefe words with thofe of fimilar import in other languages of the interior, may not only be ferviceable towards proving the different tranfmigrations of thefe people from one to the other extremity of this vaft continent : but where it can be effected alfo with the different languages of Africa, Europe, aud the Eaft-lndies, may furnifli, poffibly, the only means of afcertaining the origin of the Americans. A well-proved conformity of language would without doubt folve the queftion. The word abba, baba, or papa, and that of mama, which with flight infledions feem to have been adopted from the antient tongues of the eaftern world by a majority of the nations of Europe, are common to a great number of the American nations, however different the reft of their language. And though we fliould allow thefe words to be thofe which would preferably be received in every country by parents, from their being the firft articulations of infancy, as the reprefentatives of the relation of father and mother, it yet follows to enquire wherefore, in all the languages of America in which thefe words occur, the application of them ftiould be uniformly the fame, without their meaning being reverfed ; for example, how comes it in the Omagua language, fpoken in the centre of the American continent, and in which the terms papa and mama are ufed, that papa fliould never fignify mother, nor mama father, but the contrary, as in the languages of Europe and the eaft. It is far from impro- bable, that among the natives of America other terms might be found, the well con- firmed IN SOUTH AMERICA. 423 firmed relation of which with thofe of fome other language of the antient world, throw light on a queflion hitherto left purely to conjefture. I was expected at Borja by the reverend Father Magnin from the canton Fribourg, a Jefuit miifionary, from whom I received that attention and kindnefs naturally to be expected from a friend and countryman. I had no occafion with him, nor afterwards with the other miflionaries of his order, to avail niyfelf of the reconnnendations I brought from their friends at Quito, and ftill lefs of the paffports and orders of the court of Spain, which I carried with me. Befides other curiofities in natural hiflory, this Father made me a prefent of a chart, drawn by him, of the territory of the Spa- nifli miffions of the Maynas, together with a defcription of the manners and cuftoms of the neighbouring nations. During my flay at Cayenne I was affifted by Mr. Artur, phyfician to the King, and member of the Upper Council of that colony, in tranflating this Spanifh work into French : it is highly worthy the curiofity of the public. I found the latitude of Borja 4^ 28' S. From this place I took my departure on the 14th July with the fame Father, who was fo obliging to accompany me as far as Laguna. On the fifteenth we paifed on the north the mouth of the Morona, which flows from the volcano Sangay, the alhes thrown from which, traverfing the provinces Macas and Quito, are fometimes carried beyond GuyaquV'ei' Beyond this, on the fame fide, we diftinguifhed the three mouths of the river Paltaca before mentioned. At this time its banks were fo much overflown that no landing could be eftetted ; 1 was confequently unable to meafure the breadth of its principal mouth, which I reckoned to be 400 toifes, nearly equalling the breadth of the Maraiion itfelf. A little beyond, the fame evening and the fucceeding morn, I obferved the fun at its fetting and rifing, and, as at Quito, I found its declenfion 8|° towards the north. By two amplitudes thus obferved in fucceflion in the evening and morning, the variation of the needle may be computed without knowing that of the fun ; all that is required being to notice the difference of declenfion of the fun in the interval of the two obfervations, provided this difference be fufiiciently great to be ftiown by the compafs. On the 1 9th we arrived at Laguna, where Don Pedro Maldonado, governor of the province of Efmeraldus, had been waiting for me fix weeks; to this nobleman, as well as to his two brothers and his entire family, I owe a public acknowledgement for the diftinguifhed civilities our academic detachment experienced at their hands, during our long ftay in the province of Quito. He, as well as myfelf, on his paflTage to Europe, felt difpofed to proceed down the river of Amazons, and had taken the fecond of the three routs defcending the Paftaca ; after many dangers and great fatigue he had been fortunate enough to arrive much before me, notwithftanding the period of his departure from Quito was nearly the fame as that at which I left Cuenca ; he had made the re- quifite obfervations as he travelled along, with a compafs and portable gnomon, to enable him to defcribe the courfe of the Paftaca, an undertaking, to which I not only had prompted him, but likewife facilitated, by furnifliing him with means for its execution. Laguna is a confiderable village, containing more than a thoufand Americans capable of bearing arms, who are a medley of various nations. It is the chief eftabliftiment of all the miffions of the province of Maynas. The town is placed on dry and elevated ground, which is rare to be feen in thefe countries, and at the fame time on the mar- gin of a great lake, five leagues above the mouth of the Guallaga, a river which, like the Maraiion, has its origin in the mountains eaftward of Lima. By the Guallaga it was that Pedro de Urfoa, of whom mention has already been made, defcended to the river 224 CONDAMINE's TRAVELS river of Amazons. The memory of his expedition and the events which occafioned hie lamentable end, is ftill preferved among the inhabitants of Lamas, a fmall place in the neighbourhood of the port at which he embarked. The breadth of the Guallaga on its influx into the Marafion might, at this time, be 250 toifes. It is a river very infe- rior in volume to the majority of thofe I fliall have occafion to notice as I proceed. At Laguna I made a number of obfervations on the fun and flars, in order to determine the latitude, which I found to be 5° 14'. I made a halt here of twenty-four hours, for the purpofe of afcertaining the longitude, but I loft fight of Jupiter in the vapours of the horizon, before I could diftinguifh its firft fatellite emerging from its fhadow. On the 23d Mr. Maldonado and myfelf left Laguna in two canoes from forty-two to forty-four feet long, by only three in breadth, each formed of the trunk of a fmgle tree. In thefe canoes the rowers are placed from the prow to the middle, the traveller and his equipage at the poop, under Ihelter from the fun and rain beneath a rounded canopy, formed with much ingenuity by the natives, of matted palm leaves. This fpecies of bower has a cavity in the middle of the roof, by which light is admitted, and it ferves likewife to enter by ; in cafe of rain, or otherwife at the pleafure of the traveller, this entrance is clofed by a Hiding roof of fimilar materials, which draws over that which is fixed. We refolved on continuing our voyage by night as well as by day^..'in order to over- take, if poiTible, the brigantines, or large canoes difpatched annually by the Portuguefe miflionaries to Para in queft of neceflaries. During the day our Americans paddled along ; two only of their number kept watch during the night, the one at the prow, the other at the ilern, to preferve the boat in the current. In undertaking a chart of the courfe of the river of Amazons, I provided myfelf a refource againft the tirefomenefs of a weary though tranquil voyage through a country, in which the continued famenefs of objefts, however novel in themfelves, tended to fatigue rather than pleafe the eye.. My attention was perpetually engroffed by the com- pafs, and the watch I held in my hand, in order to obferve the deflections of the courfe of the river, and the time occupied between each bend ; to notice the varying breadth of its bed, and that of the mouths of the difl^erent rivers it receives, with the angles formed by them on delivering their waters ; the occurrence of iflands and the length of them ; but efpecially to afcertain the degree of celerity with which the current flow- ed, and the canoe proceeded along, ufmg for thefe laft purpofes various methods too tedious to explain. Every inftant of my time was employed : repeatedly I fathomed the depth of the ftream ; almoft every day I took a meridianal altitude, and oftentimes obferved the amplitude of the fun at its rifing and fetting ; wherever I made a halt, there likewife did I determine the height of the barometer. I fhall notice thefe obfer- vations only in the moft remarkable fpots, referving a more minute detail for our pri- vate meetings. On the 25th we pafTed on the north fide the river Tiger, which poflibly exceeds in fize the cognominal one in Afia, but which, for its celebrity lefs happily fituate, is here loft, owing to the vaft fuperiority of a number of other rivers. This day at an early hour, we halted on the fame fide of the river at a miflion newly eftabliflied among favages, denominated Tameos, who had recently been drawn from the woods. The language of this people is indefcribably difficult, and their enunciation flail more extraordinary than their language. They draw their breath in fpeaking in fuch manner that the found of fcarcely one vowel can be diftinguiftied. They have words which, to defcribe, and then but imperfeftly, would require at leaft nine or ten fyllables, though as pronounced by them they feem to confift of but three or four ; Poettarraro- rincouroac; IN SOUTH AMERICA. 225 T-mcouroac fignifies the number three in this tongue : happily for thofe who have tranf- adtions with them, their arithmetic goes no farther. However incredible it may appear, this is not the only American nation with whom an equal poverty of num.bers is common. The Brazilian tongue, a language fpoken by people lefs favage and uncivilized, is equally barren ; the people who fpeak it, where more than three is to be exprefl'ed, are obliged to ufe the Portuguefe. The Yameos are well fKilled in the art of making long Sarbacanas, the moft com- mon inftrument'ufed by native Americans on their hunting excurfions. Within thefe they infert fmall arrows, made of wood, and, infhead of being feathered, fur- rounded by a ball of cotton which exadly fills the cavity of the tube. By a ftrong puff of the breath they dart thefe arrows to the diftance of thirty or forty paces, and fcarcely ever mifs their aim. This fmiple inftrument ferves as an admirable fubftitute among all thefe favages for fire-arms. The points of thefe diminutive arrows, as well as thofe they fhoot from their bows, are fteeped in a poifon of fuch adivity, that when recent it kills any animal from which the inltrument dipped in it may chance to draw blood. Notwithiianding we had fowling peices, we fcarcely ever, in going down the river, ate of game killed by other means than thefe arrows, the tips of which we often difcovered in eating, betvv'een our teeth ; there is no danger from fuch occur- rences, for the venom of this poifon is only mortal when abforbed by the blood, in which cafe it is no lefs fatal to man than to animals. The antidpte is fait, but of fafer dependence fugar. In their proper place, I fhall notice the experiments I made to afcertain the truth of this opinion, as well at Cayenne as at Leyden. The next day, the 26th, we fell in with, on the fouthern fide of the mouth of the Ucayale, one of the largeft rivers which fwell the tid'e of the Maranon. It is even a moot point which of the two fhould be efleemed the chief, and which the tributary. At their confluence, the Ucayale is the broadeft of the two, and its fources are more diflant and more copious than thofe of the other ; it receives the waters of many provinces of Peru, and at the fame degree of latitude at which the Maranon is only a torrent, it is enlarged by the tribute of the Apu-rimac, and already flows a confiderable ftream ; to conclude, the Ucayale, on meeting the Maranon, repulfes its tide and changes its courfe. On the other hand, before its juncture with the Ucayale, the Ma- ranon makes a long circuit and receives the rivers St. Jago, Paftaca, Guallaga, &c. ; moreover, the Maranon is throughout its courfe of very great depth. Still again the depth of the Ucayale has never yet been fathomed, nor is it known what the number or what the volume of the rivers it receives. I think therefore that the queflion, of which fhould be confider^d the main ftream, mufl remain undecided till the Ucayale be better known. This it was likely to have been at one period, but the infurrection of the Cunivos and the Piros, who maffacred their miffionary in 1695, by occafioning the abandonment of the eftablilhments effefted on its banks, have placed this event at a di.lance. Below the Ucayale the breadth of the Maraiion is vifibly increafed, as is the num- ber of its iflands. On the 27th in the morning, we reached the miiTionary eftablifh- ment of Saint Joachim, compofed of a number of American nations, efpecially of the Omaguas, a people formerly powerful, and which a century before inhabited the iflands and banks of the Amazons, river throughout a fpace of two hundred leagues below the Napo. Neverthelefs this people is not efleemed to be originally of this country, and there is much probability that they proceeded to their fettlement on the Maraiion down fome of the rivers which flow into it from the new kingdom of Gre- voL. XIV. G G nada, 2 26 condajune's travels nada, flying hither to avoid the dominion of the Spaniards, at the period of their con- quering the country they abandoned. This opinion is founded on the fact of the exiftence of a nation near the fource of one of thefe rivers, and known by the name of Omagua ; on the ufe of clothes, a cir- cumftance noticed among the Omaguas alone of all the tribes found on the Amazons ; fome velliges of- the ceremony of baptifm ; and finally, certain disfigured traditions. Father Samuel Fritz converted the whole of this people to chriftianity at the clofe of the laft century (the feventeenth), and as many as thirty of their villages jye laid down by name, in the map of that Father, of which however we could only trace the ruins or the fite ; the whole of their population, intimidated by certain ruffians from Para, who afcended the river thus far, and made flaves of many of them, having fled to the woods, or difperfed among the millions of Spain and Portugal. The Peruvian word Omagua, and the Brazilian term Cambevas, applied by the Portuguefe of Para to thefe people, alike fignify flat-head ; and in faft this nation has adopted the whimfical pradice of prefling between two boards, the forehead of their new-born infants, in order to give it the fingular form which originated their denomi- nation, and, as they fay, to make them more perfeiSly refemble the full moon. The language of the Omaguas is as fweet and eafy of enunciation, as that of the Yameos is harfh and difficult : it has no affinity to that of Peru or that of Brazil, the one common above, the other below the country of the Omaguas, along the banks of the river. The Omaguas make great ufe of two plants, both purgative ; the flower of the on&^ called by the Spaniards Floripondio, refembles an inverted bell ; this plant has been defcribed by F. Feuillee ; of the other plant called Curupa, I brought away the feed» This people, by means of thefe, effett an intoxication which lafcs twenty-four hours^ during which they are fubjedl to extraordinary vifions. They moreover take the Cu- rupa dried and reduced to powder, as we do fnuif, but after a fingular fafliion. They ufe for the purpofe a reed terminating in two prongs like the letter Y, each extremity of which is inferted into either noftril ; from thefe, by a fl:rong infpiration which occa- fions their making a grimace that to Europeans, accuftomed tb refer every thing to^ their own cuftoms, appears truly laughable, they inhale the powder. In a country where heat and moiflure combine to excite the greatefl; fertility, it will naturally be concluded, that the abundance and variety of plants muft be great. Thofe of the province of Quito will not have efcaped the refearches of our affociate M. Jof. de Juffieu, but I may fafely affirm, that the multiplicity and diverfity of the trees and plants found on the banks of the Amazons river, in its courfe from the Cor- dilleras de los Andes to the fea, and on the banks of the different rivers its tributaries, would require years of toil from the moft indefatigable botanifl, and employ foi- the fime fpace more than one draughtfman to defcribe. I fpeak here merely of the labour which a minute delineation of all thefe plants, and the redudion of them into claffes, genera, and fpecies, would neceflarily require, but if to this were fuperadded an examination into the virtues afcribed to them by the natives of the country, certainly the mofl intcrefting part of a ftudy of this nature, how tedioufly long were the talk! No doubt thefe virtues' have been much mis-rtated and greatly exaggerated by prejudice- and ignorance, but arc we to imagine that Bark, Ippecacuhana, Simaroba, Salfaparilla, Guiacum, Cacos, and Vanilla, are the only ufeful plants which the fruitful bofom of America prefcnts ? And does not the well-attefl:ed and widely-acknowledged ufefulnefs of thefe hold forth encouragement to new fefearches ? For my part, all I was enabled to eflfeft, was, to collefl; feed at every fl;ep of my journey, where this was practicable. i The- IN SOUTH AMERICA. 1%"] The genus of plants which feemed mofl to flrike the attention of new comers, on account of the liiigularity of its different fpecies, was in m}*^ efteem the Liana, a kind of oziers, which as before noticed ferves in lieu of cordage, and which is very- abundant in all the hot parts of America. All the fpecies of this genus have this in common, that they twine around the trees and flirubs in their way, and after pro- grellively extending to the branches, occafionally to a prodigious height, throw out Ihoots which, declining perpendicularly, ftrike root in the ground beneath, and rife again to repeat the fame courfe of uncommon growth. Other filaments again, driven obliquely by the winds, frequently attach themfelves to contiguous trees, and form a confufed fpectacle of cords, fome in fufpenlion, and others ftretched in every direc- tion, not unfrequently refembling the rigging of a fhip. Of thefe Lianas there are fcarcely any but to which fome particular virtues are afcribed, fome of them with appropriate juflice, as in the inftance of Ippecacuhana. In many parts I obferved a fpecies readily difcovered by its potent and diftintt odour, refembling that of garlic. Some of thefe Lianas are as thick as, nay thicker even than the arm of man, and fome, like the Boa Conftridor its vidims, ftrangle and deflroy the tree round which they twine their parafitic arms : to thefe, a well-earned name, the Spaniards have given the title of Matapalo (wood-killer). At times it happens that the tree dies at root, and the trunk rots and falls in powder, leaving nothing but the fpirals of the Liana in form of a tortuous column, infulated, and open to the day ; nature in this inftance laughing to fcorn, and defying the imitations of art. The gums, refms, balfams, nay juices of every fort, which exude by incifion from different kinds of trees, as well as the various oils extrafted from them, are number- lefs. The oil obtained from a palm called Ungurave is reputed to be equally fweet, and by fome as pleafant to the tafte, as that of the olive. That of others again, for example the Andiroba, yields a brilliant light, without the leaft offenfive fmell. In many parts the Americans, in lieu of oil, burn Copul, furrounded by leaves from the Banana tree ; in others, certain feeds threaded on a pointed flip of wood, which, ftuck in the ground, ferves as a candleftick. The refm called Cahouchou in the province of Quito, where it grows in the vicinage of the fea, is alfo very common on the banks of the Maranon, and is ufed there for fimilar purpofes ; when frefli, by means of moulds, any fliape is given to it at pleafure ; it is impervious to rain, but its moft re- markable property is its elafticity. Of it are made infrangible bottles, boots, and hol- low balls, which can be flattened at will, but which, when the preffure that flattens them is removed, affume again their priftine form. From the Omaguas the Portuguefe of Para learnt the method of forming fyringes of the fame matter, and pumps which need no fucker : thefe fyringes are made in the fhape of a pear, with a neck at the extremity, that, as well as the body, being hollow. Into this neck a cane is fitted. When it is wifned to fill this veffel with a fluid, the air is expelled by preffure, and the reed inferted downwards into the fluid ; on removal of^ the preffure the veffel refumes its fliape, and the fluid preffed upon by the circumambient air, is forced into the va- cuum formed by the reftoration of its fliape to the veflel ; this when full being fuddenly preffed the contained liquid is expelled with the fame effeft as from a fyringe ; among the Omaguas it is a very common utenfil. When they affemble on occafion of any entertainment, the mafter of the houfe nevef fails to prefent one of thefe bottles to each of his guefl:s, and its contents are voided conftantly previous to the beginning of a grand dinner. At Saint Joachim we took other canoes and a frefh crew, departing thence the 29th July, with a defign of reaching the mouth of the Napo in time to obferve at that place o G 2 an £23 coxdamixe's travels an emerfion of the fird fatellite of Jupiter, which would occur on the night bervr»en the 3 ill and the liloi* Auguft. From the period of commencing mv jcumey, I had no certain point of longitude afcertained wherewith to correci: my computed diilances, from well to eaft ; however the travels of Orellana, Texeira, and Father Acuna which had rendered femous the river Napo, and the pretenfions of Portugal to both fides of the river of Aniazons as far as the Napo, made it important to determine the exact pofition of this point. In fpite of variou? obilacles, I happily fucceeded in completuig mv obfervation, and thus reaped the firft fruit of the toil which the tranfport of a telefcope eighteen feet long, over mountains and through woods, for the Tpace of one hundred and fifty leagues, muil necelTarily have occafioned. My fellow-traveller, aciuated with the fame zeal as myfelf, on this occafion, and on a variety- of others at which he rendered me afliilance, was of great fervice, his intelligence and acHvitv being equally exerted. I firft cbferved the height of the fun at noon, in an Lfland oppofite to the great mouth of the Napo, which I found to he ^^ 24' S. I computed the whole breadth of the Maraiion below the ifland, at nine hundred toifes, but was only able to raeafure one of its branches trigonometrically. The Na{>3 appeared to me fix hundred toifes broad above the iflands at its mouth, whJch divide it into feveral arms. At length, the fame night, I obferi'ed the emerfion of the firft fatellite of Ju- piter, and immediately afterwards, to afcertain the time, I took the height of two liars. The intervals between the obfervations were computed by an excellent watch, and by thefe means, the mouiiting and regulating of a pendulum, a matter which was fcartely poffible of execution, and which would have required fome time, was rendered unnecellan^ The refult of the calculation I made, was, that the ditterence between the two meridians of Paris and the mouth of the Napo, was four hours and three quarters. This determination will be rendered more exact when the precife inllant of obfervation Ihall be afcertaineii at iome place the longitude ot whicli is known, and at which the emerfion may have been vifible. After obferving the longitude, we continued our way ; and the next morning, the ill Auguft, landed ten or twelve miles beiow the mouth of the Napo at Pevas, now the lall of the miffionary eftablilhments belonging to Spain on the banks of the Ma- raiion. Father Fritz had laid them down as extending two hundred leagues beyond, but, in 1 7 1 o, the Portuguefe poffelTed themfelves of the major part of the lands thus defcribed as pertaining to Spain. The favages of the neighbourhood of Napo were never completely fubdued by the Spaniards, for, at different periods, the governors and miflionaries fent to reduce them to fubjeclion, have been malTacred ; but nfteea or twenr\- years back, the Jefuiis of Quito formed eftablifhmaits here anew, fending other milTionaries ; and thefe fertlements, at prefent, are in a highly flourifiiiDg condition. The name of Pevas, given to the town at which we landed, is that of an Am.erican nation, many individuals of which are inhabitants ; but here are coUecled Americans of divers nations, each of which has a language peculiarly its own, as is common over the- whole continent. It fometimes happens, tliat a language is known to no more than two or three families, the wretched veilige of a tribe dellroved, and devoured by fome other : for, notwithilanding there are at prefent no man-eaters along the banks of the Maraiion," there yet exill inland, particularly tov.-ards the north, and along the Yapura, tribes of Americans, who eat their prifoners. The majority of the new in; " " of Pevas are favages, newlv enticed from their woods, and vet unconverted to C ^ :.::y ; the neceffar)' preliminary of debrutalizing them, a taik of no iinall difficulty, not having yet been completed. On IN SOUTH AMERICA. 229 On the prefent occafion, it is not meet I ftiould expatiate on the manners and cuf- toms of thefe nations, and of others I met with, beyond what is neceflary, from their relation to phyfics or natural hiftory ; I fliall fay nothing, therefore, refpedling their dances, inftruments, entertainments, arms, fifhing, and hunting apparatus, their whim- fical ornaments of bones of fiflies and quadrupeds, run through their noftrils and lips, or of their cheeks riddled with holes, which ferve them for fixing in feathers of various hue* ; but anatomifls will polubly fee a theme for refleftion in the monftrous extenfion of the lobe of the lower part of the ear, qf certain nations of this people, without any fenfible diminution of its thicknefs occurring in confequence of the prolongation. We were much furprized at feeing lobes of this defcription, four or five inches in length, pierced through by a hole from feventeen to eighteen lines in diameter, a cir- cumftance which" we were affured was far from uncommon. After firft making a hole, thev infert in it a narrow cylinder of wood, the fize of which is gradually augmented, until the pendant lobe is fo much lengthened as to reach the fhoulders. I'he chief de- coration is a large nofegay or tuft of herbs and flowers, which is drawn through this hole, forming moft uncommon pendants. From Pevas, the laft of the mifiionary fettlements belonging to the Spaniards, to St. Pablo, the firil defcending the river pertaining to the Portuguefe*, and in which a deputation from the order of Mount Carmel officiates, the diflance is reckoned fix or feven days' journey ; this diftance we travelled in three days and nights. lu this inter- val no dwelling is found on the banks of the river. Here begin the large iflands formerly inhabited by the Omaguas, and here the bed of the river increafes fo much in breadth, that oftentimes a fingle arm of it is from eight to nine hundred toifes broad. As fo wide an extent of furface prefents great room for the aftion of wind, the waves here run fo high, as at times to overwhelm tf5e canoes by which it is navigated. On our paffage from Pevas to Saint Pablo, we experienced two ftorms ; but owing to the long experience of the Americans, it rarely happens they are furprized in the middle of. the river, and no imminent danger is to be apprehended, except where they are pre- vented from feeking fnelter at the frequent mouths of fmall rivers or rivulets. Imme- diately after the fubfidence of the wind, the current of the flream reflores the furface- to its prilline tranquillity. The greateft peril in navigating this river arifes from the frequency of uprooted trees- flicking in the fand or mud, and concealed below the furface ; we ourfelves, by ftrik- ing againfl one thus under water, on approaching the fliore to gather foine wood, recommended as eiiicacious'in the dropfy, were nearly overfet. To avoid fuch acci- dents, the canoes are kept at a diftance from Ihore, when, owing to the great depths fuch trees as are carried along by the current float, and, being feen from a diftance,; are eafily avoided. I ftiall not dilate on another accident, much lefs common, but always fatal, to which, thofe are liable who keep near the coaft, I mean the fudden fall of trees, whether owing to caducity, or the ground beneath them being gradually undermined by the waters- Many canoes with all their crews have by fuch cafualties been entirely overwhelmed,, though, unlefs on fimilar occafions, the drowning of a native is an occurrence never heard of. On the immediate banks of the Maraiion there is now no warlike tribes inimical to Europeans, all having either fubmitted or withdrawn themfelves to the interior: ftill, * By reference to the letter of Mr. Godin, will be feen, that two fettlements, fince the voyag-e of M. de la Conciamine, have been formed ; the one Loreta, belonging to the Spaniards, beloiv Pevas, the other tjavatinga, belonging to the Portuguefe, above San Pablo, at the mouth of the riy<;r Yavari, ia 230 CONDAMINIi's THAVELS in fome places, it would be hazardous to fleep on fhore. But a few years back the fon of a Spanilh governor, whofe father we knew at Quito, on defcending this river, hav- ing ventured to land, was furprifed in the woods, and maffacred by favages fi Dm the interior, who by unlucky chance had ftolen as far as the banks of the river. The fadl was related to us by a companion of his who efcaped the danger, and is now fettled at one of the Portuguefe eftablilhments. The niiffionary at St. Pablo, apprifed before-hand of our coming, had prepared for us a large canoe, pirogue, or brigantine, with fourteen rowers and a mailer. He moreover afforded us, in another canoe, a Portuguefe for a guide ; nideed from him, as well as from the whole of the monks of his order, we received courtefies which made us for the time forget we were in the centre of America, five hundred leagues from countries inhabited by Europeans. At St. Pablo we firlt began to notice, in lieu of rultic chapels, and bowers for dwellings made of reeds, houfes and cliurches of flone, brick, and plafter, neatly whitened. We v^^ere likevvife agreeably furprifed at meeting here amid the deferts with native women all clad in Britany linen, coffers with locks and keys, iron utenfils, needles, knives, fciffars, combs, and a variety of little European articles imported hither annually by the natives, who purchafe them in barter for the wild cocoa they gather on the banks of the river, and which they tranfport to Para. This commerce fpreads among thefe people a femblance of eafe and comfort which at fi:rft glance diilinguiffies the Portuguefe from the Spanilh fettlements higher up the river. The latter, as the inhabitants hold no intercourfe with their neighbours down the river, but draw every thing from Quito, whither they go fcarcely once in a year, and from which they are effectually as much divided by the Cordilleras as by a fea a thoufand leagues iu breadth, in every particular exhibit the difficulty with which the conveniences of life are procured. The canoes in ufe among the Portuguefe, and which we employed down the river from St. Pablo, are much larger, and far more convenient, than thofe in which we navigated among the Spanilli fettlements. The trunk of a tree, wliich conflitutes the whole body of the latter, ferves only to frame the keel and bottom of thefe : in con- ftrufting a veffel of this kind, the Portuguefe firft fplit the tree, and hollow it out with the axe ; tltey afterwards open it by means of fire to give it breadth : but as the depth is confequently diminiffied by this procefs, they add planks to the fides, which are falt- ened to ribs fixed in the keel-tree. The rudder in thefe canoes is fo contrived, that the tiller in nowifc inconveniences the cabin or little apartment fafhioned in the poop. Some of thefe vellcls are fixty feet long, by feven broad, and three and a half deep ; while others again arc much larger, and are manned with forty oars : moft of them have two mads and fails, a very material advantage on afcending the llrcam under favour of the eall winds, which prevail from Ocl:ober to May. About four or five years ago, one of thefe brigantines of moderate fize, decked over, and manned by a French trader and three mariners of the fame nation, to the great aftoniflmient of the inhabitants of Para, ventured well out to fea, and in fix days arrived at Cayenne from Para, a voyage, as will be feen, (from my following the common practice of the country and coafting along fhore, as beit fuited the objeft I had of takuig a chart of the coaltjj v/hich I was two months in completing. In five days and nights, not including about two days' hah at the intervening fettle- ment of Yvirataha, Traquatuha, Paraguari, and Tefe, we completed our voyage from St. Pablo to Coari. Coari is the lalt of the fix fettlements of the Portuguefe Carmelite mlffionaries ; the five firft have rifen out of the wreck of the eftablifhment anciently formed by Father Samuel Fritz, and compofed of a variety of nations, moll of them emigrants IN SOUTH AMERICA, 23 1 emigrants from their former abodes. The whole fix are ftationary on the fouthern fide of the river, on which the land lies higher, and is Iheltered from floods. Between Saint Pablo and Coari, we noticed the confluence with the Amazons of a number of large and beautiful rivers. From the fouth, the chief are the Yutay, of fuperior volume to the Yuruca, by which it is fucceeded, and which, at its mouth, has a breadth of three hundred and fixty-two toifes ; the Tefe, called by Father Acuua the Tapi, and the Coari, which fome years back was regarded as a lake ; the direftion of all is from fouth to north, their fources in the mountains eafl:ward of Lima and north of Cufco. They are all of them navigable for a fpace requiring feveral months to afcend, proceeding from their mouths ; and different American natives relate, that on the banks of the Coari, ia the higher lands, they had obferved an open country, flies and a number of horned cattle (the fpoils of which they exhibited on their return), objefts to which they were unufed, and which prove that the early waters of thefe rivers take their courfe through, countries widely different from thofe they inhabit, and, no doubt, contiguous to the Spanilh colonies of Upper Peru, where, as is known, the multiplication of cattle is very great. On the northern fide, the Amazons likewife receives, between the two places adverted to, two large and famous rivers ; the Yea, which, like the Napo, flows from the vicinage of Pafto, north of Quito, where the ruiflionary eflablifliment of Fran- cifcans, called Sucumbios, is fituate, and where the inhabitants call it Putumayo ; the Yupura, the fources of which are farther north, and which, in its early progrefs, is denominated the Caqueta, a name utterly unknown by the inhabitants at its different mouths, for it empties its waters into the Amazons by feven or eight branches, which leave the main trunk in fuccefllon, and at fuch dift;ance the one from the other, that there is an interval of a hundred leagues between the point of entrance of the firft and the lafl of them. The Americans on their banks give various names to thefe, which have caufed them to be mifl:aken for different rivers. Yupura is that by which one of the largefl; is known, and, following the praQice of the Portuguefe, who have extended this name on afcending it, I give the fame denomination, not only to that branch fo called by the natives, but likewife to the trunk itfelf. The whole of the country watered by thefe flireams is fo low, that when the water in the Amazons is at its greatefl: height, it is flooded, and admits the paflage of canoes from one branch to the other, as well as from thefe branches to lakes in the interior. The banks of the Yurupa are in fome places inhabited by thofe ferocious nations of whom 1 have already fpoken, who mutu- ally deftroy each other, and who, many of them, devour their captives. The trunk of this river, and indeed its branches, are frequented by few other Europeans befides thofe of Para, who refort thither by fteakh to purchafe flaves. We Ihall advert again to the Yupura, in fpeaking of the Rio Negro. In thefe parts it was that Tfxeira, afcending the river in 1637, received in exchange^ from the ancient inhabitants of an American village, certain trinkets of a very fine gold which, affayed at Quito, proved to be twenty-three carats fine. This village he called The Golden. On his return, he planted a land-mark, and took poffeffion of it in the name of His Majefty of Portugal, on the 26th Auguft 1639, by an a£f which is flill! preferved in the archives of Para, in which it was feen by me. This a£f , figned by alt the officers of his detachment, flates the pofition of the place to have been on high land oppofite to the mouths of the Golden River. Father Acuiia declares that by different channels which he points out, there is a communication between the Yupura and the Yquiary, the river which he calls the Golden. He adds, moreover, that the inhabitants of the banks of this river carry oit traffic 232 CONDASIINE S TRAVELS traffic In this metal with the Manaos * their nei^rhbours, a?id .thefe again with the people of the banks of the Amazons, of whom he himfelf purchafed a pair of golden ear-rings. Father Fritz in his journal ftates, that in 1687, that is to fay fifty years later than Father Acuiia, he faw eight or ten canoes of Manaos, who, taking advan- tage of the floods, had proceeded from their abodes on the Yurubefh, to trade with ]iis flock on the north bank of the Amazons. He fays that among other articles they brought fmall plates of beaten gold, which thefe fame Manaos received in exchange from the Americans of the Yquiary. x\ll thefe places and rivers are laid down on the chart of this Father. So many concordant teftimonials, proceeding all from fefpedl;- able individuals, leave no room for doubting of the truth of tbcfe fafls ; and this, not- whhflianding the river, the lake, the gold mine, the land-mark, and even the Golden village itfelf, have vaniflied like a fairy palace, fo that on the very fpots defignated all memory of them is loft. Even in the time of Father Fritz himfelf, the Portuguefe, forgetting the title on which their pretenfions were founded, infifted that the land-mark raifed by Father Texeira was placed higher up the river than the province of Omaguas, while, running into the eppofite extreme. Father Fritz, a mifllonary fubjeft of the crown of Spain, maintained* that it was reared 6nly in the neighbourhood of the river Cuchivara, lower towards the mouth by two hundred leagues. As is ever the cafe in dil'puted matters, each party launched into extremes. As for the fpot where the land-mark was planted in the Golden village, if the diftrich in which the fourth Portuguefe milhon is liluate defcending the river, be well examined, which is called Paraguari, and ftands on the fouth fide of the Amazons, fome leagues above the mouth of the Tefe, where I ob- ferved the latitude to be 3'' 20' S. it will be found to unite all the characlerillics by which the fite of the famous village is marked in the a£l of Texeira, dated at Guayaris, and in the relation of Father Acuha. The Gupura confequently, one of whofe mouths is oppofite to Paraguari, will be the Rio de Ouro, or Golden river, the mouth of which noticed in the fame adl as being oppofite to the village. Remains to know what have become of the Yurubefh and Yquiari, to which Father Acuiia gives the name of the Golden River, and to which you afcend by the Tupura ; the difcovery of this coft me fomewhat more pains, I think however that I have refolved the queiiion, and perhaps found the origin of the Parima Lake and the celebrated Dorado, but regularity and precifion require the poftponement of the difcuffion to the period of our treating of the Black River. In the courfe of our navigation, we enquired of the people of various nations, if they had any knowledge of thofe warlike women which Orellana pretended to have encoun- tered ; ajid if it were true they lived apart from men, receiving them but once a year, as is related by Father Acuua, in whofe narrative this forms a part fingularly curious, and well worthy of attention. We uniformly were anfwered, that they had heard their fathers fpeak of fuch things, antl repeated many particulars which it were tedious to detail, but which tended to confirm the fad, that in this continent did exift a republic of women, who lived entirely feparate from the men, and who withdrew towards the north into the interior, either by the Black River or fome other which flows on the fame fide into the Marahon. * Father Fritz writes Manaves. In the French tranflation of Aciina's narrative, the word is disfigured to IvTavagiis. The Portuguefe at prefent write indifferently either Manaos or Manaus, pronouncing the «i-ord Maiiaoos. '. An IN SOUTH AMERICA. 233 An inhabitant of St. Joachim de Omaguas informed us that we fliould probably find at Coari, an old man whofe father had feen thefe Amazons, but arriving there, we found the individual alluded to was dead ; we however converfed with his fon, who feemed to be feventy years of age, and who was the chief of his tribe in the village. He affured us that his grandfather had in reality feen them pafs by at the entrance of the Cuchiura river, that they came from the Cayame which falls into the Amazons on the fouthern fide, between the Tefe and the Coari, and that he had fpoken with four of them, one of whom had an infant at the breaft : he moreover told us the names of each of them, and added that on leaving Cuchiura, they croffed the Great River and proceeded towards the Black River. I omit here feveral particulars related, un- likely in themfelves, but which at bottom were of little import. Below Coari, the natives every where related to us the fame fads, varied indeed by circumftances, but which agreed in the main. The Topayos efpecially, of whom in their place more exprefs mention will be made, as well as of certain green flones called Amazons' ftones, relate that they inherit them from their forefathers who obtained them from the Cougnantainfecouima, a word fig- nif}'ing in their language, women without huibands, among whom as they fay they are found in abundance. A native inhabitant of Mortigura, a miffionary fettlement in the vicinage of Para, offered to fhow me a river, by failing up which I might, he affured me, afcend to within a fhort diftance of the country at this very time inhabited by Amazons. This river is called Irijo, and fince this converfation paffed I failed by its mouth, which is between Macapa and the North Cape. According to this man, it is neceffary, in order to reach the country inhabited by thefe Amazons, to travel for feveral fucceffive days weftward, through woods, and crofs a mountainous country. An old foldier once belonging to the garrifon of Cayenne, but now fettled near the falls of the river Oyapoc, affured me that being one of a detachment fent into the inte- rior in 1726, for the purpofe of exploring the country, they had penetrated into a part inhabited by the Amicouanes, a nation with long ears. The region inhabited by thefe people lies beyond the fources of the Oyapoc, and in the neighbourhood of a river which falls into the Amazons. Among this nation he noticed that their wives and daugh- ters wore necklaces formed of the green ftones I have before mentioned, and enquiring whence they procured them, he was anfwered from the women without hufbands, whofe territories were feven or eight days journey further towards the weft. This nation of Amicouanes inhabit an elevated country at a diftance from the fea, where the rivers do not yet admit of navigation ; it follows therefore that little likelihood exifts of this tradition having paffed hither from the inhabitants of the Amazons, with whom they have no intercourfe, the Amicouanes knowing of no other nations but thofe their immediate neighbours, from among whom the Frenchmen belonging to the detachment feleded their guides and interpreters. It is neceffary to obferve, that not only the teftimonials adduced, but alfo others paffed by in filence, and thofe of which mention is made in relations given in 1726, and fmce then by two Spanifti governors * of the province of Venezuela, are alike in unifon with refpect to the fad of the exiftence of Amazons ; but what is no lefs deferv- ing of remark, while thefe different accounts defignate the point of retreat of thefe American Amazons, fome towards the eaft, others the north, and others again the weft, thefe feveral diredions converge in one common center, that is, the mountains * Don Diego Portales lately a refident of Madrid, and Don Francifco Torralva who was his fucceffor. VOL. XIV. H H in 234 Ct>NDAinXE's TRAVELS in the midfl: of Guyana, a diftrlft to which neither the Portuguefe of Para, nor the- French of Cayenne, have hitheito penetrated. Yet notwithflanding thefe corrobora- tions I nuifl: confefs, that I fliall give credence to the exillence of Amazons at this time, in the fpot pointed out, v.iih great rekiclance, until more pofitive proofs be gradurdly afforded by the natives of the countries in tlie neiglibourhood oi the European colonies on the coaft of Guyana ; but this migratory nation will very poffibly again have changed its refidence ; or, what to me appears a more probable event than any other, will have forfaken its antient habits, either in confequence of being overpowered by fome other nation, or of the maidens having at length loft the averfion of their mo- thers to the company of men. Thus, though no remaining veftige ftiouid be found of this feminine republic, this would not yet prove that none fuch had ever exifted. Sufficient on the contrary has been adduced to determine the hiitorical faft of the exiftence at one time, of a nation of women who had no men hving with them. For the cuftoms of this nation, and efpecially that of cutting oif one of their breafts, as, trufting to the tales of Ameiican natives, Acuiia relates ; thefe are acceflbrial circum- ftances, independent of the fafl: itfelf, and are probably exaggerations or inventions of Europeans informed of the praftices attributed to the Amazons of Afia, and which a fondnefs for the wonderful may have caufed the natives of America learning thefe tales from them, to interweave in their narratives. In fadt, it is ftated, that the Cacique who admonilhed Orellana to be on his guard againft the Amazons, whom in the lan- guage of his country he denominated Comapuyai'as, defcribing them as but with one breail ; and the native of Coari, on repeating the relation of his grand-father who faw four Amazons, one of them fuckling her child, made no mention of this peculiarity, one of too remarkable a nature to have efcaped obfervation. I return to the principal faft. If, in refutation of the exiftence of a nation of this de- fcription, be alledged the want of probability, and the next to moral impofiibility, that fuch a feminine republic could be founded anil fubfift, I ftiall not attempt to fiipport it by in- ftancing the antient Amazons of Afia, nor the modern ones of Africa *, as what we read of thefe in antient and modern authors, is at beft much muigled with fable, and open to difpute ; but fhall confine myfelf to remarking that if ever fuch a nation had exift- ence, there ismoft reafon to conclude it muft have been in America, where the frequent wanderings of the women, who often accompany their hufbands to war, and the hard- fiiips of their domeftic life, might not only originate fuch an idea, but likewife furnifli them with numberlefs opportunities of lliaking off the yoke of their tyrants, of forming an independent eftabliflnnenr, and of avoidihg that vilifying condition of flavery, fo little removed from that of beafts of burtht-n, in which they had previoufly lived. Such a refolution once formed, it would neither be more extraordinary, nor more difticult to put it in execution than fimilar plans, in the European colonies of America ; whence flaves, who weary of ill-treatment, or dilgufted with their condition, fo fre- quently fly to the woods, either in bands, or where no affociates are tound, alone; thus pafTmg years, and oftentimes their whole lives, in the folitude of the unbounded wilderncfs. I am aware that if not all, yet the majority of the natives of South America are liars, credulous, and prone to the marvellous ; but none of thefe people could ever have heard of the Amazons of Diodorus, Siculus, and Juftin, previous to the arrival of the Spaniards among them j but even then Amazons were Ipoken of as exifting in * See Father Lnbat, and tlie defcrlption of Eaftcrn Ethiopia by Father Juan de Santos, in Portu- guefe, Lifl)i;ai and the French tranflulion at Paris. I the IN- SOUTH AMERICA. 235 \hc center of the country, and have fmce been by nations who never had held com- merce with Europeans. This is proved by the advice given by the Cacique to Orel- Jana and his people, and by the traditions related by Father Acuiia and Father Baraze *. Is it poffible to conceive that favages, inhabiting countries fo diftant one from the other, fhould have leagued together in inventing the fame facl, and that this fuppofed fable fhould be fo uniformly and fo generally adopted at Maynas, at Para, in Cayenne, and in Venezuela, among fo many nations who comprehend not one the language of the other, and who have no intercourfe whatever ? Moreover, I have not enumerated the authors and travellers f of different nations of Europe,, who during more than two centuries, have continued to fpeak of the exigence of Amazons in America, and of whom many, pretend to have feen them, contenting niyi'elf with the adduction of new teftimonies, which Mr. INIaldonado and myfelf were enabled to colled on our way. A difcuflion on this queftion may be feen in the preface to the firft book of the Teatro Critico of Father Feijoo, a Spanifh Benedictine, the work of his learned difciple Father Sarmiento of the fame order. On the 20th of Auguil we left Coari in a frefh canoe, and with another crew. The Peruvian language fpoken by Mr. Maldonado and our domeilics, and of which I had a flight knowledge, enabled us to hold converfe Avith the natives of the country, in all the miffionary fettlements of the Spaniards, in which ir has been the ftudy of thefe to make it the common language. At St. Pablo and at Tefe' we had Portuguefe inter- preters, who fpoke the Brazilian tongue, introduced in like manner throughout the whole of the eftablifhments of the Portuguefe miffions ; but meeting with none at Coari, where, fpite of our diligence, we failed in arriving fufficiently in time for the great milFionary canoe difpatched to Para, we found ourfelves among the natives with whom we could hold no difcourfe other than by figns, and the help of a fhort vocabu- lary I had framed of queitions in their language, but which vocabulary unfortunately could not lead to the comprehenfion of their anfwers. I was neverthelefs enabled to gather fome fmall information from them, efpecially the names of rivers. I likewife remarked that they were acquainted with a number of fixed ftars, and that they gave the names of animals to different conftellations. The Hyades, for example, or the head of the bull, they call Tapiera Rayouba, from a name which now fignifies in their tongue, the bull's jaw, I fay now, becaufe, fmce bulls have been imported from Eu- rope into America, the Brazilians, as well as the natives of Peru, have applied to thefe animals, the name which either of them before in their maternal tongue gave to the elk j, the largeft of the quadrupeds they knew before the arrival of Europeans. The day after we left Coari, continuing our progrefs down the river, we palled on the northern fide of one of the mouths of the Yupura, about a hundred leagues dillant from the frrft ; and the fucceeding day, on the fouth fide, the mouths of the Purus, as it is now called, formerly denominated the «Eucrivara, from the name of a village in its neighbourhood ; in this village it was that the grand-father of the old Indian of Coari was vifited by the Amazons. The Purus is inferior in volume to none of the rivers which fwell the current of the Maraiion, and if the native Americans can be cre- dited, is equal in breadth to even that river itfelf. Seven or eight leagues below the * Lettres edifiantes et ciirieuses, tome x. f Americo Vefpucci, Halderic Schmiedel, Oiellana, Betrio, Sir W. Raleigh, Fathers Acuna, Ar- tieda, Baraze, &c. J This is a mittake of Condamine ; Tapiura, in the Erazih'an tongue, does not fignify an elk, but th6 Tapir, an amphibious animal about two feet high by forty inches in length, fomeiimes wrongly termed a, Hippopotamus. Tr.^ns. H H 2 ' con- 236 condamine's travels confluence of the two, at a fpot where no iflands were, and where the breadth of the Marafion was from one thoufand to one thoufand two hundred toifes, while ftemming the current with all fail fet, in order, as well as poffible, to keep thd boat flationary, I founded, but found no bottom with one hundred and three fathoms of line. On the 23d we entered the Rio Negro, or Black River, another fea of frefli water which flows into the Amazons on the northern fide. The map of Father Fritz, who never entered the Rio Negro, and the laft map of America by Delifle, which copies that of Fritz, reprefent this river as having a courfe from north to fouth while the faft is according to the relations of thofe who have afcended it, that its courfe is from wefl to eaft, with a flight inclination towards the fouth : that fuch is its direction for feveral leagues above its confluence with the vVmazons, I myfelf had ocular demonfliration, having obferved that at this point its courfe is fo nearly parallel to that of the Amazons, that, were it not for the tranfparency of its waters, which has earned it the diftindion of the Black River, it might be mifl;aken for a branch of the Amazons, feparated by an ifland. We afcended two leagues up this river as high as to the fort built by the Portuguefe on its northern bank, at its narrowed breadth, where I meafured it and found it to be one thoufand two hundred and three toifes in width. The latitude of the fort I obferved to be 3° 9' S. This was the firfl: fettlement we came to belong- ing to the Portuguefe on thd^- northern fide of the river Maraiion. The Rio Negro has been frequented by the Portuguefe more than a century, and a great traffic for flaves is carried on, on its banks. On thefe there is confl;antly a detachment of Poi-tu- guefe from the garrifon of Para, encamped for the purpofe of keeping the different American nations in awe, and of facilitating the flave-trade within the limits prefcribed by the laws of Portugal ; and every year this flying camp called the Redemption Troop advances farther into the country. The Captain Commandant was abfent from the fort on our arrival, and I halted here but four and twenty hours. On the whole of the banks of the Black River hitherto explored, are fettlemcnts of Portuguefe miflionaries of the fame order of Mount Carmel, we had conft;antly noticed in defcending the Marauon, after quitting the fettlements of the Spanifti miflionaries. On afcending this mighty river for a fortnight, three weeks, nay even a longer time, it is yet found of ftill greater breadth than at its mouth, owing to the multiplicity of iflands and lakes that it forms. Throughout the whole interval of fpace, its banks are elevated and never overflowed ; they are lefs thickly covered with wood, and altogether the country prefents an afpeft widely difl^erent from that which borders the Maraiion. While at the fort on Rio Negro, we obtained more difl;inft information refpefting the communication that exifts between this river and the Oronooco, and, confequently, between the latter and the Amazons. I fhall not detail the various proofs of this fad; which I gleaned with care on my voyage, (of which, the moft material was the indif- putable tefl:imony of a native American female, belonging to the Spanifli mifllons on the banks of the Oronooco, of the Caunacani nation, and the village of Santa Maria de Bararuma, with whom I held converfation, and who had been brought from thence in a canoe to Para,) thefe evidences being rendered fuperfluous by that ultimately ob- tained. By a letter from the reverend father John Ferreyra, redor of the college of Jefuits at Para, I have recently learnt that laft year ( 1 744), the Portuguefe belonging to the flying camp, after afcending from river to river, at length met the fuperior of the Jefuits of the Spanifli miflions from the banks of the Oronooco, whom they brought back with them by the way they came, without once landing to their camp on the Rio Negro. The fad, therefore, of the connedion of the two rivers, no longer admits of doubt, however contradided by the recent author of El Orinoco Ilujirado, (^Madrid, 9 "741, IN SOUTH AMERICA. «3r 1741, p. 18.) long a niiffionary on the banks of the Orinooco, who, in 1741, regarded fuch connexion as impoflible. He was certainly ignorant at that time, that his own letters to the Portuguefe commandant, and the almoner of the Redemption Troop, were forwarded by the very channel reputed fabulous to Para, where I faw the originals themfelves in pofleffion of the governor ; but even this author himfelf, by what I learn from Mr. Bouguer, who faw them laft year at Carthagena in America, is by this time completely undeceived. The pofitive certainty of an exifting communication between the waters of the two rivers, which the cited teftimonials adduce, is a geographical fafl: the more important, from the circumftance that, though this union be unequivocally marked on ancient maps, it has been generally fupprelfed in thofe given by modern geographers, as if Jby common confent, and treated as chimerical by thofe who were fuppofed to have the belt means of information. This, probably, is not the firft example of theoretic con- jecture, fupported by plaufibility prevailing over fads attefted by travellers of faith ; nor the only inftance in which criticifm, too far extended, has ventured on denial, where juftice allowed but of doubt. Yet, where does this communication between the Oronooco and the Amazons take place ? This we can learn with exaftitude only when the court of Portugal Ihall thmk fit to publilh a chart of the Rio Negro. In the meantime, I fhall explain my ideas on this fubjecl, grounded on a comparifon of the feveral accounts I collefted in the courfe of my travels, with the collective narratives, memoirs, and maps, in manufcript or in print, which I have been able to confult, as well on the fpots themfelves as fmce my return, and efpecially with the draughts Iketched by my companion and myfelf in the prefence of, and after hearing the relation of the beft informed, among thofe of the miffionaiies, and others, who had afcended and defcended the Amazons and the Black River. From thefe combined accounts, the one ftrengthening and elucidating the other, I gather, that a fmall village of native Americans in the province of Mocoa (eaftward of that of Pafto, and in i"-^ N.) gives its name of Caqueta to a river on the banks of which it is fituate. Defcending lower, this river divides into three branches ; one, the famous Oronooco, which mixes with the fea oppofite the ifland of Trinidad, takeS; a north-eaftem diredtion ; another, the fame as lower down, is called Rio Negro by the Portuguefe, flows eaftward with a gentle declination towards the fouth ; the third, the Yapura fo often mentioned, has likewife an eaftward courfe, but with a more fouthern inclination than the preceding. I am uncertain whether or no this laft river leaves the main trunk earlier than the two preceding, or whether it be merely an offspring of the fecond branch, the Rio Negro : in determining,- I have only conjefture for my guide ; but this, founded on fubftantial reafoning, leads me to think the former of thefe po- fitions moft worthy of aflent. However this may be,, it is at leaft plain that, if the Yupura be acknowledged as a branch of the Caqueta, (a name unknown on the banks of the Amazons) the whole of the relation of Father Acuila refpecting the Caqueta and Yupura, becomes eafy of comprehenfion, and accordant. It is well known, that the diverfity of names given to places, and efpecially to rivers, by the various na- tions inhabiting their banks, has at all times occafioned to geographers the greateft perplexity. In this ifland it is, or rather this new Mefopotamia, formed by the Amazons and the Oronooco, united by the Rio Negro, that the fabled Golden Lake Parima, and the imaginary city Manoa del Dorado, have long been fought, a fpeculation which has occafioned the death of fo many individuals, and, among others, of Sir Walter Ra- leigh, 238 condamixe's thavels leigh, a famous navigator, and one of the mofl fliining charaflers England can boafl, one alfo whofe tragical hiflory is fo generally known. It is vifiMe Ironi the expreflions of Father Acinla, that, in his time, the exiftence of this faiioiml chimera was far from general discredit. I muft here apologize for a flight geographical detail which too clofely belongs to my fubjeft to be omitted, and which may ferve to unravel the origin of a romance, which nothing but a thirft for gold could render credible : a town with roofs and walls of golden plates, a lake with fands of gold ! Here it will be neceffary to call to mind what before has been obfcrved refpecling the Golden River, and the previoufly quoted fads, extracted from the narratives of Fathers Acuna and Fritz. The Manaos, according to the laft author, were a warlike nation, the dread of all their neighbours. They long refifled the Portuguefe, with whom at prefent they are on friendly terms : many have fettled among the tribes and miffionary fettlenients on the Rio Negro ; while fome ftill make long excurfions into the countries inhabited by roving tribes, and are ferviceable to the Portuguefe in their flave-trade. Two of this nation it was who penetrated as far as to the Oronooco, ancf bore away and fold to the Portuguefe the American Chriftian female I have before mentioned. Father Fritz, in his journal, fays exprefsly, that thofe Manaos whom he faw trading with the inhabit- ants of the banks of the Amazons, and who procured their gold from the Yquiari, came from the banks of the Yurubcfh. By dint of inquiry, I learnt, that after five days' failing up the Yupura, a lake occurs on the right, which it takes a day to traverfe, and which is called Marahi, or Para-hi, a word fignifying, in the Brazilian tongue, River Water ; that from this lake, by dragging the canoe along where infufficient water is found, but where, during the floods, there is depth enough for navigating the veflels in ufe, one comes to another river called Yurubefli, by which, floating with the cur- rent, a paflage to the Black River is effefted in five days ; finally, that this laft river, a few days' fail above the confluence of the Yurubefli, received another called Ouiquiari, in which were many catarads, and which proceeds from a mountainous country abound- ing in mines. Can it be doubted that thefe rivers are the fame as are alluded to under the names of Yurubefli and Yquiari by Fathers Acuna and Fritz ? The latter, it is true, gives a different courfe to thefe two rivers, making the Yurubefli a tributary to the Yquiari, and the latter to difembogue its waters into a great lake in the interior ; but, •founding his relation on the teftimonies of American natives alone, from whom it is difficult to obtain any clear or diilinft account, efpecially where the intervention of an interpreter is necefl^u-y, it is tar from furprifing, if errors fliould occur ; on the other hand, the names of thefe rivers are preferved with but the flighteft alteration. On the map of Father Fritz, a large afleniblage of Manaos, which he calls Yenefiti, is laid down as inhabiiing this diflrift. Of this I was enabled to obtain no iatisfaftorv intelli- gence, which is not to be v. ondered at, when we refled on the migradons and difper- fion of the Manaos' nation ; at the fitme time, it feems highly probable that, from the capital of the Manaos, the city of Manao was invented. I lay no ftrefs whatever on the poflible derivation of Parima from Marahi or Para-hi, but, confine myfelf to authen- tic data, 'i'he Manaos had a confiderable aflemblage or town in this di(tri(9: ; they had in iheir vicinage a great lake, nay feveral lakes, for colleftions of water are very com- mon in a country fo low as this, and fo much liable fo inundations. The Manaos, moreover, brought gold from the Yquiari, and flattened it into fmall plates : thefe are fafts well eftabliflied, and which may have been exaggerated fo as to have given birth to the fabulous city of Manao and the Golden Lake. If the cafuilt fliould dwell on the tlifproportion between the fmall plates of gold of the Manaos and the roots of golden tiles In south a^ierica. 239 tiles of the city of Manao, the particles of gold waflied from mines by the Yquiari, and the golden fands of the Paiima lake, he mull yet allow, great as it really is, that cupidity and prejudice, on the part of European adventurers, determined on finding what they fancied had exiftence ; and, on the part of the native Americans, interefted in ridding themfelves of unwelcome guefts, z. genius prone to exaggeration and lies, that thefe, I fay, are media fufficient to account for the affiniilation of objects thus widely dif- fimilar in themfelves, and the change and disfigurement of fadls, fo as not to be known for the fame. The hiftory of the difcoveries in the new world furnifh more than one inftance of metamorphofes equally itrange. I poffefs an extraft from the journal and a copy of the map of Nicolas Hortfman, a native of Hildeflieim, probably the lafl traveller who attempted a difcovery of thefe vifionary incognitee. They were given to me at Para by the author himfelf, who, in the year j 740, afcended the river Effequibo, whofe mouth is on the ocean between the rivers Surinam and Oronooco. After having traverfed lakes and vaft tracks of land, now dragging, now carrying his canoe, and enduring in his excuifion incredible toil and fatigue, but without any traces of the objeift of his fearch, he at length came to a river with a fouthern courfe, by which he defcended into the Rio Negro on its northern fide. The Portuguefe have given it the name of Rio Branco, or White River ; and to the river Effequibo, the Dutch have attached that of Parima ; doubtlefs, becaufe of their fuppofmg it to proceed from the lake of that name ; and, for a funilar reafon, one of the rivers of Cayenne has a hke denomination. It may be conceived by fume, that this Parima lake was one of thofe croffed by the adventurer lafl: noticed, but in any of them, he found fo httle that correfponded with the idea he formed of the Golden Lake,, as to be far, in my opinion, from adding his fandtion to fuch a conje£lure. The cryfl:alline waters of the Black River had barely lofl their tranfparence by blending with the pale and muddy current of the Amazons, before, on the fouth fide,, we drew near the fiift mouth of another river, fcarcely fecondary to the preceding, and no lefs reforted to by the Portuguefe. By them it is called Rio de Madca,, or the Wood River, poffibly from the abundance of trees brought down by its current after floods. Some idea of the length of its courfe may be entertained, from the facl of its having been afcended in 1741 as high as to the vicinage of Santa Cruz de la Scirra, an epifcopal fee of Upper Peru, in latitude 17I" fouth *. In its fuperior part, where the miffionary fettlement of Moxes is eftabliflied, this river is called Mamore ; of its courfe,, in this part, the Jefuits of Lima publilhed a chart in 1713, which is given in Book XII.. of Lettres Edifiantes et Ciirienfes ; but the earliefl: fource of the Madera is in the neigh- bourhood of the mines of Potofi, but little diftant from that of the Pitcomayo, a tri- butary of the great liver De Plata. The general breadth of the Amazons below the two lafi noticed, rivers, the Rio Ne- gro, and the Madera, is about a league ; where iflands occur, its breadth from bank to bank is two to three leagues ; but in time of the greateft height of its waters, the widely fpreading deluge has no limits. At this point it is that the Portuguefe of Para give the name of Amazons to the river ; higher up, it is known by no other than that of O Rio de Solimoes, the River of Poifons, a diftincSlion which piobably originated from the envenomed arrows before noticed, the mofl common weapon of the inhabitants of its fliores. * The whole courfe of this large river exceeds i^oo Britifh miles, during more than 1,500 of which it is Davigable ; and the greater part of this length it is of confiderable depth. On: . 440 condamine's travels On the 28th we pafTed the Jamundas on the left. Father Acuna calls this river Cunuris, and ftates it to be that in which Orellana was attacked by the warlike women whom he calls Amazons. A little below, we landed on the fame fide oppofite to the Portuguefe fort Pauxis, where the bed of the river is narrowed to a breadth of nine hundred and five toifes. The tide rifes thus high, at leafl the waters rife and fall vifibly every twelve hours, and each day at a later period than on the preceding, as upon the coaft. As the highefl; rife of the tide at Para is fcarcely ten feet and a half, as I afcertained by new obfervation, it follows that from Pauxis to the fea, a diilance of upwards of two hundred leagues, or, according to Father Acuna, three hundred and fixty, the fall of the river is not more than ten feet and a half ; this well agrees with the height of ihe mercury in the barometer which, at Fort Pauxis, fourteen toifes above the level of the water, was about one and a fourth line higher than at Para on the fea. It will readily be conceived that the flow of tide will not be experienced at the ftrait of Pauxis, more than two hundred leagues from Cape North at the mouth of the Amazons, until many days after its occurrence at that cape, inftead of in five or fix hours, the ordinary duration of the flux of the fea. In facl, between the coaft and Pauxis, there are a fcore of points which mark, as I may fay, the diurnal progrefs of the tides in afcending the river. At all thefe different points the height of tide is noticed at the fame inftant as on the coaft ; thus, fuppofing, for more clear explana- tion of what I mean to exprefs, that the interval between each two of thefe points were twelve leagues, there would be high water within fuch interval at every intermediary hour ; that is to fay, at every league afcending from the fea, one hour later than at the preceding. The fame, in courfe, takes place with refpedt to low water. Thefe alte- rations, however, of ebb and flow, as before remarked, are conltantly and naturally fubjeft to the fame retardment every day as on the coaft. A fimilar progrelfion of undulatory tides, in all probability, prevails at open fea, making the period of high and low water gradually later in proportion to the difl:ance of each fpot from the point where the firft rife and fall of the fea takes place till the breaking of its waves on the fhores. The graduation of the decreafe of velocity with which the tide flows on afcend- ing the river ; two oppofite currents obferved on the flux of tide, the one at the fur- face, the other at a certain depth ; two others, one of which runs up along the margin of the river and increafes its fpeed, while the other, in the middle of the river, runs down, and is flayed in its progrefs ; and, finally, again two other oppofite currents, which frequently meet in the vicinage of the fea in the natural crofs-channels, where the flux at one inftant enters either extremity ; all thefe fatts, of which I am uncertain whether fome of them have ever been duly noticed, and the difi'erent combinations of them, together with divers other accidental circumflances relating to the tides, that in a river in which they afcend to a greater diftance in all probability from the fea than in any other in the world, are doubtlefs more numerous and more varied than in any part ; would aflTuredly give room for curious, and perhaps altogether, novel remarks ; but, in order to leave little to conjecture, they would require a fucceffion of minute obfervations, a long refidence at each fpot, and a delay, which but ill agreed with the reafonable anxiety I experienced of revifiting France, after an abfence already of nearly nine years* duration. I did not omit, however, to pay attention, in the neighbourhood of Para and the North Cape, to a phenomenon incident to the fpring-tides, of greater fingularity than any to which I have alluded, and to which, at due feafon, I fhall advert. We were received at Pauxis, as we had every where elfe been, from the inftant of our entering the territories of Portugal. The Commandant, Captain Manuel Maziel Parente, IN SOUTH AMERICA. 24 1 Parente detained us four days at the fort, and again another day at his country-houfe ; and afterwards accompanied us fix or feven days as far as to the fortrefs Curupa, half way to Para. The pofitive orders of His Portuguefe Majefty, favourable in extreme to my fafety and comfort, were known at every ftation before I arrived, and infured the moft obliging treatment, not to myfelf alone, but to all who accompanied me ; a treat- ment continued through the whole of my journey to Para, for which I am under the higheft obligations to a minifter who loves the fciences, who duly values their utility, and whole careful vigilance was ever on the alert to provide, during our long fojourn at Quito, for all the wants of our numerous companions. In lefs than fixteen hours, we arrived oppofite the fortrefs of Topayos, at the entrance of the river of fimilar name; this again is a river of the firft order; it defcends from the mines of Brazil, croffing unexplored countries inhabited by wild and warlike nations, whom the miffionary Jefuits are employed in civilizing. The town of Topayos has rifen out of the ruins of Tupinambara, formerly fituate in a large ifland at the mouth of the river Madera ; and its inhabitants are nearly all that remains of the brave Tupinambos, but two centuries back the lords of Brazil, and through which their language yet prevails. For their hiflory and long peregrinations, the narrative of Father Acuna may be confulted. Among the Topayos thofe green {tones are more common than with anv other people, known by the name of Amazonian, of unknown origin, and which formerly were in high requeft for their fuppofed efficacy in curing the ftone, niphritic colic, and epilepfy, and on which a treatife, under the title of Pierre Divine, or the Divine Stone, has been publifhed. Thefe ftones differ nothing in colour and in hardnefs to oriental jade ; and as they refill: the file, it is inconceivable how the ancient Americans were enabled to fafhion them as they did into the fliape of various animals. It was no doubt the difficulty of folving this problem which gave origin to a fable fo improbable in itfelf as fcarcely to merit refutation. It was ferioufly aiferted, that this flone was nothing elfe than the mud of the river, which, when recently taken from its bed, might be moulded into any form, and which obtained its extreme hardnefs by expofure to the air. Yet were this marvel granted, refpecting the fallacy of which credulity was not undeceived but by fuccefsful experiment alone, ftill would the lapidary be pofed to anfwer a queftion of fimilar nature. This queftion is, by what means were wrought thofe rounded and poliftied emeralds, pierced with two conical holes diametrically oppofite one to the other, which are ftill to be found in Peru, on the banks of the river St. Jago, in the province of Efmeraldas, forty leagues from Quito, and which are accompanied by divers other monuments of the ingenuity of the ancient inhabitants. As for the green ftones, they every year become more fcarce, as well owing to the unwillingnefs of the American natives, by whom they are highly prized, to part with them, as to the great number of them which have found their way to Europe. The 4th, we began to diftinguifli the mountains in the north ten or twelve leagues in land. To us who, from leaving the Pongo, had navigated two months without feeing one fingle hill, this fpecxacle was a novelty. What we faw were the anterior hills of a long chain of mountains extending from weft to eaft, the loftieft ridges of which moun- tains divide thefpring heads of the ftreams which irrigate the northern plain of the Ama- zons, and thofe of Guyana. To thefe mountains it v/as, according to tradition in the country, that the Amazons withdrew. Another tradition, no lefs general, but of the truth of which lefs conteftible evidence is faid to be affiarded, reputes thefe mountains to abound in mines of various metals. This laft ftatement, however, though of a nature VOL. XIV. II to 242 COXDAMINe's TRAVELS to excite the attention of a greater number of inquifitive perfons, is, neverthelefs, no better fubftantiated than the other. On the evening of the 5th, I noticed, at fun-fet, that the variation of the compafs was 5x ' eaft. Finding no fpot favourable to my landing, I made my obfervation on the trunk of an uprooted tree driven by the current and fixed againft the fhore. We had the curiofity to meafure the length of this tree, which, from the roots to the {hooting of the branches, meafured eighty-four feet, and, in circumference, notwithftanding it was withered and Itripped of its bark, twenty-four. By this tree, thrown in our way by chance ; by the great dimenfions of the pirogues of which I have had occafion to fpeak, hollowed from one fingle trunk ; and by a table without joint, of a hard wood that received an admirable polifh, from eight to nine feet long by a breadth of four and a half, which we afterwards faw in the houfe of the governor of Para, fome idea may be formed of the height and beauty of the timber that grows on the banks of the Amazons, and many of the rivers by which its volume is increafed. At night-fall, on the 6th, we left the principal trunk of the Amazons, oppofite to fort Para, newly eretied by the Portuguefe on the northern bank, on the ruins of an old Dutch fort. There, to avoid the ftrong current at the mouth of the river Xingu, which had proved deftruclive to many canoes, we entered a natural canal communicat- ing with the lail-mentioned rivers. The iflands in the mouth of the Xingu, which form a number of channels, prevented my meafuring by triangles its adtual breadth ; but as near as it can be determined by the eye, it is not lefs than a league. It is, the fame river which Father Acuua, from what he learnt of natives fpeaking a different language to thofe now inhabiting its banks^ (and here it is fit I fhould obferve, that in the different tongues fpoken, rivers are often known by different names,) calls Para- naiba, and leather Fritz, in his chart, Aoripana ; Xingu is the American name of a village, the feat of a miffion, fome leagues up the river. It defcends, like the Topayos, from the mines of Brazil ; feven or eight days* journey up this river is a cataraft, which, however, does not prevent its being navigable to a height, whither it requires two months to fail up. Its banks abound in two fpecies of aromatic trees, the one called Cuchiri, the other Puchiri. The fruit of them, about the fize of a Spanifh olive, refembles in flavour the nutmeg, and, grated, is uied as a fubftitute for that fpice. The bark of the firft has the fmell and talte of the clove, which, by the Portuguefe, is termed Cravo ; whence the French of Cayenne, by corruption, apply to the tree which bears this bark the term Bois de Crabe, or Crab-tree. Were it not for the fpices ob- tained from the eall, this would be more known in Europe. In many fpirituous liquors made in Italy and England, it forms a component ingredient. After the union of the Xingu with the Amazons, the breadth of this is fo confider- able, that but for the continued fucceffion of great iflands which interrupt the fcan of the eye, the fpedator on the one bank would be unable to defcry that oppofite to him *. At this place we found ourfelves happily entirely freed from the mufquitoes, gnats, and flies of every fpecies, which had been our greatefl torment throughout the whole of our voyage, a torment indeed fo intolerable, that the natives themfelves never travel •without a cotton awning to protect them from their flings during the night. At cer- tain feufons one is entirely enveloped in fome parts, efpecially in the country of the Omaguas, by clouds of thefe infedls, whofe flinging caufes extreme itching. It is a • If lefs than eleven Englifti miles in breadth, the banks on one fide muft be vifible from the other, allowing them to be each eighteen feet above low water-mark, and the eye of the obferver five feet from the bank. Trans. well- IN SOUTH AMERICA. 343 well-known fad, and highly worthy of remark, that from the mouth of the Xingu they no longer are feen, or at leaft are very rare on the right bank of the Apiazons, while the oppofite bank continues ftill infefied by them. After refle£ling on ihis fiftgu- larity, and examining the iites of thefe fpots, I conceived this difference to be the con- fequence of the change in the courfe of the river at this place ; it rifing here to the north, the eaft wind, which alnioft conflantly prevails, muft neceffarily, commg from fea, drive thefe infefts to the weflern fhore. On the 9th, in the morning, we arrived at the Portugvfefe fortrefs of Curupa, built by the Dutch when mailers of the Brazils. The King's lieutenant received us with extraordinary marks of diftintlion. The three days of our flay were one continued gala, in which was difplayed the moft profufe magnificence, fuch indeed as was Iittl» to be expected in this country. Curupa is a fmall Portuguefe town, in which are no other natives than fuch as are flaves to the inhabitants. It is pleafantly fituate on high ground, on the fouth-eaftern bank of the river, eight days' fail from Para. From Curupa, where the ebb and flow is very perceptible, boats move only with the tide ; at a few leagues below, a fmall arm of the Amazons, called Tagipuru, leaves the main channel, which has a northern courfe, and, taking an oppofite dire£tion towards the fouth, tends to form the great ifland Joanes or Marayo, disfigured in all maps. From its extremity on this bend it changes its courfe, and, forming a femicircle, rifes north by eaft, and is fhortly loft in an eftuary which receives feveral large rivers one after the other. The moft confiderable of thefe is : firft, the Rio de dos Bocas, or the Two-mouthed Rivers, formed of the union of the Guanapu and Pacujas ; it is two leagues wide at its mouth, and is laid down in all the old maps, as well as the Laet, under the name of the Para river ; the fecond the Tocantin, of ftill greater width than the preceding, allows navigation to a height which it requires feveral moHths to attain, and, like the Topayos and the Xingu, has its origin among the m.ountains of Brazil, abounding in mines ; finally, the Muju, which, two leagues up from its mouth I found feven hundred and forty-nine toifes in breadth, and on which I faw a frigate be- longing to His Portuguefe Majefty going up under full fail, in order to take, many leagues higher up, certain rare and curious wood, the growth of its banks. On the eaftern bank of this river it is that Para is fituate, juft below the mouth of the tiver Capim, which, fliortly before its difemboguing itfelf into the eftuary, receives another called the Guama. Nothing lefs than the fight of a correfl. map is requifite to furnifii a diftinft idea of the fite of this city at the concourfe of fo many rivers, and prove that it is not without reafon its inhabitants are far from conceiving themfelves placed on the b?.:;ks of the Amazons, of which river it is poffible that not a fingle drop bathes' the walls of their city ; for as well might we fay that the Loire flows by Paris, becaufe that river communicates, by the canal of Riare, with the Seine. Indeed there is abundant ground for fuppofing, that the immenfe quantity of running water which feparates the Terra Firma on which Para ftands from the ifland Joanes, would experience no fenfible diminution, though the communication between it and the Amazons ihould be inter- rupted by the clofure, or deviation of the narrow branch of this river, which comes, as it were, to take poffeflion of all thefe rivers before recited, by ufurping their titles. This, however, if fuch be chofen, may remain a queftion ; and that I may accom.mo- date myfelf to the com.mon opinion, I fnall not objeft to ftating, that Para ftands on the eaftern mouth of the Amazons ; all that is required of me being, to ftate in what light this is to be underftood. On my paflage from Curupa to Para, without being confulted on the courfe I chofe, I was conducted between iflands, by narrow and crooked canals, from one river to an- '^112 other, 244 condamine's travels other, for the purpofe of avoiding the peril attendant on paffing their moutlis. What enfured my fafety, and had been gratifying to another traveller, was far from fatisfac- tory to me, whofe chief objefl: was the ftruQure of my chart ; in order, mid this tortu- ous labyrinth of iflands and innumerable canals, to preferve the thre?d of my rout, while it largely multiplied my toil, exafted redoubled attention. I have hitherto faid nothing of the fmgular iifh which the Amazons produces, nor of the rare animals found on its banks. This portion of natural hiftory alone would furnilh materials for an entire work, and the exclufive ftudy of it would not only re- quire a voyage exprefsly undertaken for the purpofe, but a traveller whofe attention fhould be called to no other objeft. I fhall merely enumerate fome of the moft fmgular. At St. Pablo de Omaguas I defigned, from nature, the largeft frefli-water fifli that is known, to which the Spaniards and Pcx Higuefe have given the name of the Sea-cow or Sea-bull ; which, however, muft not be confounded with the feal or fea-calf. The one in queftion browzes the grafs of the banks of rivers, and in its flefli and fat bears forae relemblance to veal. The female has teats, with which it fuckles her young. Some writers have increafed the fimilitude fuppofed between it and the bull, by attri- buting horns to it, which nature, lefs generous than they, has denied. It is not am- phibious, properly fpeaking, as it never entirely quits the water ; and, indeed, is unable fo to do, having only two fins near the head, in fnape of fmall wings, about fixteen inches long, which ferve it tor hands and feet, and, confequently, merely raifes its head out of water to reach the grafs it feeds on. The one I defigned was a female ; its length was feven and a half Paris feet, and its greateft breadth two : I have fmce feen others of fuperior fize. The eyes of this animal are difproportionate ; they are round, and only three lines in diameter ; the opening of the ears is flill fmaller, and can better be compared to nothing than a hole made with a pin. This fifli, by fome, has been reckoned peculiar to the Amazons, but it is equally common in the Oronooco ; it is likevvife, though lefs frequently, found in the Oyapoc, and in many other rivers of Cayenne, and offthecoaft of Guyana, and very probably in other parts. It is the fame animal in genus, though I think of different fpecies, that is called the Lamentin, in Cayenne, and in the French iflands of America. It is not met with in the open fea, and is rare near the mouths of rivers ; but it is found inland at more than a thoufand leagues from the fea in the major part of the great rivers which fall into the Amazons, the GuUaga for example, the Palfaca, &c. In the Amazons itfelf, it is only flopped in its upward courfe by the Pongo of Borja ; but this barrier is no obftacle to another fifh called Mixano, as diminutive as this is large, many of them not exceeding the length of a finger. I'his fry annually pnxeed to Borja, at the commencement of the fubfiding of the waters, about the end of June. They prefent nothing fmgular, if we except the ftrength they exhibit in ftemming and fwimming againft the current. As the narrow bed of the river necefl'arily colletls them in great number near the flrait, they are feen croffing in Ihoals from one bank to another, and, aUernately on either fide, overpowering the violence with which the waters' are impelled through this ftrait. When the waters are low, they are taken by harul from the hollows in the rocks of the Pongo, where they rell to refume their flrength, and which ferve them as fo many ladders in afcending. In the neighbourhood of Para I faw a kind of lamprey, the body of which, like that 6f the common fpecies, is pierced by many openings, but, at the fame time, it pof- feffes the fame faculty with the torpido ; whoever prcfumes to touch it with the hand, or even with the end of a Hick, experiences a painful nunabnefs in the arm, and a I fhcckj IN SOUTH AMERICA. 245 fliock, which is faid at times to be fo pcv,-erful, as to lay one proftrate. Of this hift aflerted fa£t I had no ocular proof. M. de Reaumur has unfolded the myftery of the fecret fpring which occafions this wonderful effect in the torpido. The turtles of the Amazons are much in efteem at Cayenne, being reckoned the moft delicious that are known. So numerous are they on this river, of different fpe- cies and of v^ious fize, that they alone with their eggs would yield ample nourifhment to the inhabitants of its banks. Tortoifes or land turtle likewife abound, called, in the Brazilian tongue, Tabuiis ; thefe, at Para, are preferred to the other or river turtle. Either, but elpecially the latter, will live for months together out of the water, and without any viable nourifjiment. Indulgent nature feems, by her prodigality, to favour the general idlenefs of the Americans, and anticipate all their wants : the lakes and marfhes which occur at every ftep on the banks of the Amazons, and, occafionally, at confiderable diftance inland, are filled with filh of every kind at the time of the annual inundations ; and when the waters fall, they remain in thefe as in fo many natural refervoirs, where they are caught with the utmofi eafe. In the province of Quito, in the different countries traverfed by the Amazons, at Para, and in Cayenne, a variety of plants are found, which differ from all known in Europe ; the leaves or roots of which, thrown into the water, have the faculty of in- toxicating filli. While thus torpified, they float on the water, and are taken with the hand ; by means of thefe plants, and by weirs, which they place at the mouth of fmall ftreams, the Americans catch as many fifli as they pleafe : to preferve thefe, they fmoke them in riddles very rarely, uling fait for this purpofe ; the inhabitants of the mifhon. of Pilaynas, however, obtain rock-falt from a mountain in the neighbourhood of the Gullaga ; and thofe fubject to Portugal, from Para, whither it is brought from Europe. Crocodiles are very common through the whole courfe of the Amazons, and even in moft of its tributaries. They are fometimes twenty feet in length, and pofTibly more. In the river of Guyaquil, I faw many before I embarked on the Amazons. They remain for hours and days together ftretched on the mud, expofed to the fun, and motionlefs, and refemble trunks of trees or long pieces of timber covered with re ^h and dry bark. As thofe of the banks of the Amazons are lefs purfued, they are con- fequently lefs fearful of man. During the floods, they fometimes enter the cabins of the Americans, and more than one example has occurred, of this ferocious animal having borne away a man from his canoe in fight of his companions, and devoured him without the poflibility of refcue. The mofl dangerous adverfary of the crocodile, and, perhaps, the only one that dares encounter it, is the tiger. A combat between thefe two animals muff prefent a fmgular fpedacle, but fuch a fight muft neceffarily be the refult of hazard, and very uncommon. The Americans give this account of it. "When the tiger approaches the river's brink to quench its thirft, the crocodile raifes its head to feize him, as on fimi- lar occafions it attacks fleers, horfes, mules, and whatever animal prefents itfelf ; the tiger then ftrikes its talons into the eyes of the crocodile, the only undefended part ; but this diving into the water carries the tiger with it, which fuffers rather to be drowned than forego its prey. The tigers, an animal common to all hot countries covered with wood, which I faw in America, differ neither in lize nor beauty from thofe of Africa. Of them there is a one fpecies with a brown fkin without ftripes. The Americans are very expert in combating the tiger with a fpontoon or half-pike, their common travel- ling weapon. In 246 condamine's travels In the province of Quito only, and no where on the banks of the Amazons, did I meet with the animal called by the Peruvians Puma, the lion of ihe American Spa- niards. I cannot determine whether it be deferving the name ; the male has no mane, and is much fmaller than the lions of Africa. I never faw any but fuch as were dead and fluffed. It would be no fubjeft of wonder if bears, common but in cold countries, though found on feveral of the mountains of Peru, fhould be unknown in the woods of the Marafion, of which the climate is fo different ; neverthelefs, in this part I have heard mention made of an animal called Ucumari, a name that in the Peruvian tongue de- fignates the bear, though I never was able to convince myfelf of its identity to that beaft. The elk, which is found in fome of the wooded diftricts of the Cordilleras of Quito, is not uncommon in the woods of the Amazons, nor in thofe of Guyana. I give the name of elk here to the animal known to the Spaniards and Portuguefe by the name of Danta, by that of Uagra to the Peruvians, and Tapiua to thofe of Braiil, and which is called in the Galibi tongue on the coafts of Guyana Maypouri. As the continent in the neighbourhood of the iiland of Cayenne forms a part of the continent traverfed by the Amazons, and adjoins the plain watered by that mighty river, in each country is found moft of the animals common to the other. I defigned on my way among the Yameos, a fpecies of weazel which is eafily tamed : I was unable to pronounce or vi'rite the name by which it was called, but I faw one again in the vicinage of Para, when it was termed Coati, in the Brazilian tongue. This animal is mentioned by Laet. Monkeys are the mod common game, and that moll prized by the Americans of t|ie Amazons. In the courfe of my long voyage down this river I faw fo many, and heard fpeak of fuch a variety of fpecies, that the mere enumeration of their names would take up much time. There are fome as large as a grey-hound, and others fmall as a rat ; I do not mean in this companion to allude to the diminutive fpecies called Sapajou, but others much fmaller, difficult to tame, with long fhining hair moftly of a chefnut colour, and fometimes fpotted with fawn. They have tails twice the length of the body, a fmall fquai-e head, falient ears, pointed like thofe of the cat and dog, and not like thofe of other monkeys, between whom and thefe there is little refem- blance, as thefe have rather the look and port of a lion. At Maynas they are called Pinches, in Cayenne Tamarins. I had many, but was unable to preferve them : they are of the fame fpecies called in the Brazilian tongue Sahuins, in French Sagoins ; Laet fpeaks of them, citing L' Eclufe and I.ery, That prefented to me by the gover- nor of Para, was the only one of its fpecies ever fecn in the country ; the hair of its body was filvered, and a beautiful auburn ; that of the tail, a fhining chefnut approach- ing to black. It had another fmgularity ifill more remarkable ; its ears, cheeks, and mouth, were of a vermillion, fo lively as fcarcely fo be taken for a work of nature. I kept it a whole year, and it was ftill living while I was writing this defcription almoit within fight of the French fiiore, to which country I promifed myfelf the plea- fure of bringing it alive j but, notwithflanding every precaution I took to guard it from cold, probably owing to the rigour of the feafon, it died. As I had no convenience on board to dry it in the manner recommended by Mr. Reaumur, all I could do was to preferve it in fpirits, but even thus it will probably exhibit fufficient to fhew no exagge- ration in the defcription I have given. This country produces many other rare animals, but mofl of them have already been clefcribed, and are found in divers parts of America, for example, various fpecies of boars IN SOUTH AaiERlCA. 247 boars and rabbits, the pac, the ant-eater, the porcupine, the floth, the tatoo or arma- dillo, and numerous others, of which fome were drawn by me, while of the refidue the reprefentations taken by M. de Morainville were left in the cuftody of Mr. Godm. It is by no means aftonilhing that in countries fo hot and hum.id as that of which I treat, ferpents and fnakes of every kind (hould be common, I have read, but in what relation I forget, that none of thofe of the Amazons are poifonous ; what however is more certain, while many of them are perfeftly innocent, of a number of others the bite is almoft conftantly mortal. One of the mofl dangerous is the rattle-fnake, re- markable by the variety and livelinefs of its colours ; but the moft rare and fmgular of all is a large amphibious ferpent, from twenty-five to thirty feet long and more than a foot thick, according to report ; it is called Tacu Mama, or the Mother of the Water by the Americans of Maynas, and commonly inhabits the large lakes formed by the river- waters after floods. FaCLS are related refpefting them of which not even the fancied evi- dence of my fenfes could prevent me from doubting, though I fliould fee them, and which I merely venture to repeat from the ferious affuiance of their authenticity of the author of El Oronooco Iluftrado before quoted. Not only as affirmed by the Americans, does this amazing ferpent fwallow a goat whole, but alfo by its breath irrefiftibly attracts thofe animals towards it, which it devours. Various Portuguefe of Para en- deavoured to perfuade me of the verity of tale? equally improbable, for example, of another immenfe fnake which kills men with its tail. I fufpect this laft to be of the fame fpecies found in the woods of Cayenne. There, experience fhews, that notwith- ftanding its teeth are well calculated to excite terror, a man may be bitten by it, and preferve the marks of its fangs v/ithont any dangerous confequence : of this reptile I brought home two fldns, one of which, dry as it is, meafures fifteen feet long by more than one m breadth. Doubtlefs others of ftill larger dimenfions have exiftence. I am indebted for thefe fkins, and various other natural curiofities to the Jefuits of Cayenne, Mr. de Lille Adam commiflary of the navy, Mr. Arthur King's phyfician, and feveral of the officers belonging to the garrifon. The worm called by the Maynas, Suglacuru ; and at Cayenne, Macaque ; grows in the fi.='fh of men and animals to the fize of a bean, and occafions intolerable an- guifh. I defij^ned the only one I faw, and have the worm itfelf preferved in fpirit^ of wane ; it is related to originate from the egg of a fpecies of gnat or mufquito, but of this there is hitherto no certainty. Bats which fuck the blood of horfes, mules, and even men, when unflieltered from them by fleeping under cover, are a torment common to mofl; of the hot countries of America ; fome of them are of monfl;rous fize ; at Borja, and in various other parts they have entirely deftroyed the cattle introduced by the miffionaries^ and which had previoufly begun to multiply. The variety of birds of different fpecies in the forefts of the Maranon is flill greater than of quadrupeds, but it is generally remarked, thatfcarcely any have a pleafingfong, their chief recommendation being their fplendid plumage, and the diverfity of colours with which they enchant the eye. Among thefe beautiful works of nature, none exceed the Culibri mentioned by numerous authors, and which is common in America throughout the torrid zone. Of this magnificent bird I fhall only remark, that though it is generally underfliood to belong to hot climates alone, I have no where feen it in fuch numbers as in the gardens of Quito, the temperate climate of which is rather cool than other wife. The Toucan, the red and yellow beak of which is fo large and dif- proportionate to its body ; and to whofe tongue, which refembles a long and narrow quill, great virtues are afcribed ; is another bird not peculiar to this countrv alone. 10 ' Of 248 CONDAMINe's TRA^'XLS Of parrots and water-fowl, the varieties, differing in fize, colour and form, are num- berlefs ; the moll rare among the parrots are thofe entirely yellow, except a fmall tinge of green at the extremity of the wings. Of this fpecies I faw but two at Para, where the grey with the tip of the wings of a flame colour, fo common in Guenca, is unknown. The Maynas, Omaguas, and various other nations form fancy-works in feathers, but wiih much inferior ingenuity, and far lefs neatnefs, than is obferved among the Mex- icans. The inhabitants on the Oyapoc have the fkill of caufmg parrots to affume colours different to thofe they originally difplayed, by plucldng their feathers arid rubbing the wounds with the blood of certain frogs ; this operation is what in Cayenne is termed Tapirer un Parroquet : poffibly the fecret confifts in nothing beyond bathing the fpot from whence the feathers were plucked witii fome acid, indeed the application may be altogether ufelefs, for it is no more wonderful that red or yellow feathers fliould fpring up in lieu of the green that were plucked, than to fee grey hairs grow from a wounded part on a horfe where black had been before. Among the Angular birds I faw at Para was one the fize of a goofe, the plumage of which polTeffes nothing extraordinary, but of which the extremity of the wings is armed by a fliarp horny fubftance, fimilar to a large thorn, half an inch in length. It has moreover, above its beak, another very flender and flexible horn, the length of the finger : it is called by the Brazilians, from the' cry it makes of fimilar found, Cahuitahu. The bird called Trompetero by the Spaniards of the province of Maynas, is the fame with the Agami of Para and Cayenne. It is very familiar and pofl'efl'es nothing extra- ordinary if the noife it occafionally makes be excepted, which has earned it the title of trumpeter. Thofe who have conceived the noife made by this bird to be a note or fong, are much in error ; it proceeds not from the throat, but an organ diametri- cally oppofite. The celebrated Contur, by corruption called Condor, of Peru, which I faw in many parts of the mountains of the province of Quito, is likewife found, if reliance is to be placed in my informants, on the banks of the Maranon, nav, I have myfelf feen thefe birds fcudding over a flock which probably the prefence of the fliepherd retrained them from pouncing upon. It is a generally received opinion that the Contur can carry off" a kid, and 'bmetimes flies away with a child. It is faid the Americans, as a lure, expofe the image of a child, formed of a fpecies of clay of very vifcous and ad- herent nature, from which this bird, ftriking on It as it pitches, with violence, is afterwards unable to difengage itfelf. On the 1 9th of September, nearly four months from my leaving Cuenca, I arrived within fight of Para, called by the Portuguefc the Great Para (Para in the Brazilian tongue fignifying a river), and landed at a dependency of the college of Jefults. The provincial of the convent gave us welcome, and the reftor detained us a week, pro- curing us every diverfion the country could atlbrd, while apartments in the city were prcparing'for our reception. On reaching Para on the 27th, we found in readinefs for us, a very commodious and richly furniflied houfe, with a garden commanding the fea, and precifely fituate as I wilhed, for the obfervations I had to make. The gover- nor and captain-general of the province received us in that handfome manner we were led to expcft, from the orders he had tranfmttted for our treatment on the way, to the different commandants of the forts, and from the flrong recommendations in our favour, tranfmitted by hiai to the various miffionaries we had met with. On IN SOUTH AMERICA. 249 On reaching Para and bidding adieu to the woods of the Amazons, we fancied cur- felves at once tranfported to Europe. We found here a large city, redilinear ftreets, pleafant houfes, mod of them rebuilt of fhone and brick within the laft thirty years, and churches of magnificent appearance. The commerce of Para direfl: with Lifbon, whence a fleet of merchant fliips arrives every year, enable thofe of the place whofe circumftances are eafy, to provide them- felves with all the comforts of Hfe. They receive European commodities in exchange for the produce of the country ; fome little gold-duft brought from the interior of the Brazils, and all the various ufeful articles as well from the rivers which fall into the Amazons, as from that river itfelf, fuch as clove-wood and the black nutmeg, falfapa- rilla, vanilla, fugar, coffee, and in abundance cocoa, which is the cun-ency of the country, and at the fame time its ftaple. Probably the latitude of Para had never before been obferved on fhore, for when I arrived there I was confidently told I was under the line. Fritz's map places this city in lat. 1° o' S. By repeated obfervations, all of them agreeing, I found it to be i '^ 28' S. which latitude differs immaterially from that laid down in the Map of Laet, one, not to my knowledge followed by any after-geographers. In the New Portuguefe Traveller it is laid down in lat. i ° 40' S. As to the longitude I am enabled to fix it with nicety by the eclipfe of the moon, which I obferved on ift Nov. 1743, and by two immerfions of the firfl fatellite of Jupiter, on the 6th and 29th December, in the fame year. In the interval of my procuring correfponding obfervations in fome fpot the longitude of which is authenticated, as there were none effeded at Paris, I calcu- lated the difference of the two meridians of Para and Paris to be three hours, twenty- four minutes. I omit the obfervations I made on the variation and dipping of the needle, and on the tides, which are rather irregular at Para. A more important obfervation, and which immediately relates to the figure of the earth, the chief objeft of our voyage, was undertaken by me ; I mean the afcertain- ment of the length of the pendulum to give mean time, or rather the difference of the length of fuch pendulum at Quito and at Para, one of thefe cities being on a level with the fea, the other from fourteen to fifteen hundred toifes above its level, and both under the equinoftial Hne ; for a degree and a half here is of no confequence. In this experiment I employed a pendulum twenty-eight inches long, more minutely defcribed elfewhere, which continued its ofcillations vifibly for more than twenty-four hours and with which I had made a great number of experiments at Quito, and on Mount Pi- chinchi feven hundred and fifty toifes above the level of Quito. The refult of nine experiments made at Para, the two molt diftant of which varied but three ofcillations in 98,740, I found that my pendulum vibrated from thirty-one to thirty-two times oftener than at Quito, and from fifty to fifty-one oftener than on Pichinchi. From thefe experiments I concluded that under the equator, two bodies, one of which fhould weigh one thoufand fix hundred and the other one thoufand pounds, at the fur- face of the fea, being tranfported, the one to the height of one thoufand four hundred and fifty, the other to a height of two thoufand two hundred toifes, would each of them iofe a pound of their weight, as, or nearly, would be the cafe if the fame experiments were made under the parallels of 22° and 28" according to the tables of Sir Ifaac Newton, or, judging from the actual experiments made under the equator, and in various parts of Europe, under the parallels of 20*^ and 25''. The numbers I have cited are merely approximate, and I claim the privilege of making what flight alteration may be neceffary, after applying the fuitable equations, when I publifh the detail of my experiments on the pendulum. VOL. XIV. K K During 250 condamine's travels During my fojourn at Para I made feveral fliort excurfions in a canoe, and availed myfelf on thefe occafions to improve my chart. I was however unable to complete it without feeing the true mouth of the Amazons, and tracing its northen bank to Cape North, where it terminates in the fea. This, and other reafons, made me refolve on proceeding from Para to Cavenne, whence I might fail direct to France, on board a King's fhip which was there to await me, rather than, as did Mr. Maldinado, profit of the opportunity afforded by the failing of the Portuguefe fleet, which took its depar- ture for Lifbon on the 3d of December 1743. I was in confequence detained at Para till the clofe of the month, lefs owing to the reprefentations made to me of the contrary winds prevalent at this feafon, than to the difficulty I experienced of procuring a com- plement of rowers ; the fmall pox, which at this time made great ravage here, having caufed the country people to abandon the adjacent villages. It is noticed at Para that this malady is more fatal to the American inhabitants of the miffions, newly brought from the woods, and who go naked, than to fuch of their fraternity as are clothed, and who received life, or have long dwelt with the Portu- guefe. The former, a fort of amphibious animal, as often in the water as on land, and enured from infancy to the inclemency of the weather, have poffibly in confequence a lefs porous ikin than the reft of mankind, one confequently which will oppofe more difficulty to the eruptions. The cuftom, moreover, of thefe people, of rubbing their (kins over with anatto, genipa, and various thick and greafy oils, which in procefs of time muft obftru£t the pores, may likewife tend to increafe this difficulty ; and this conjefture is fupported by an additional obfervation ; the negro flaves from Africa, who follow no fuch practice, are lefs affected by this malady than the natives. However this may be, the favage newly from the woods who chances to be attacked by this com- plaint, may in common be regarded as a dead man ; but again, how comes that this is not the cafe where inoculation is reforted to ? About fifteen years ago a Carmelite miffionary, perceiving all his flock dying about him in fuccefiion, and having informa- tion from a news-paper of the efficacy of inoculation, which at that time made great noife in Europe, judging wifely, that by reporting to this remedy he might at leaft render doubt- ful that death, which without the application was certain ; he confequently, after half his catechumens had perifhed, boldly inoculated the whole of the remainder who had not hitherto been attacked, and not one of the number died. He was followed in the example he fet by another miffionary on the Black River, and with equal fuccefs. The fenfible Carmelite reafoned but as others might have done, who, like him, feeing the ravage this diforder occafioned, had heard of the fuccefs of the new difcovery ; yet to him is the honour of its firfl introdu6t;ion into this part of America. After thefe experiments, fo well authenticated, it will be reafonably concluded, that, durin^^ the contagion of 1743 which occafioned my detention at Para, all tiiofe who had American flaves would refort to a remedy fo falutary. I fhould myfelf have thought fo, had I not been witucfs to the contrary ; at leail as long as 1 ftayed at Para it was not ytt thought of. It is indeed true, that hitherto the proprietors had not loft half their flaves. On the 29th December I embarked for Cavenne, in a canoe belonging to the cap- tain-general, with twenty-two oars, ftored with every necefl'ury to render the voyage conifortable, and furnifhed with recommendations for the Francifcan Fathers of Re- form, who have their miflion on tlie ifland Marajo or Joannes, and who on my reach- ing their abode were inflructed to lupply me with a recruit of rowers ; but the want of communication between Para and Cayerme, andotlier accidents, prevented my finding a fingle good praQical pilot in four villages, at which I landed in the early part of 10 January IN SOUTH AMERICA. 35 1 January 1744. Deftitute therefore of this eflential, and committed to the little expe- rience and timidity of my American rowers, and the perfon affigned me to command them (a Portuguefe Mellee who fpoke their language and who even confidered me myfelf as fubjeft to his ordei-s), I was two months on a voyage which might have been effedted in a fortnight, a delay which hindered my being able to obferve the comet on fhore which at this time made its appearance, and which was loft in the fun's rays before I reached Cayenne. Some leagues below Para, I croffed the eaftern mouth of the Amazons, or the Para branch, feparated from the real or weftern mouth by the large ifland called by the Portuguefe Joannes, but more commonly at Para Marajo, and by the Americans there Marago. This fingle ifland occupies almoft the whole intervening fpace between the two mouths of the river. It is of an irregular form, and more than one hundred ai'yl fifty leagues in circumference. Inftead of this fmgle ifland, in almoft all maps is fub- ftituted a multitude of fmall iflands, yhich might be conceived to have been laid down at hazard were they not copied into the Flambeau de la Mer, accompanied by details as falfe as circumftantial. The Para branch where I croflTed, five to fix leagues below that city, is upwards of three leagues broad, and thence, as it approaches the fea, con- tinues to increafe. I coafted along the ifland, running towards the north for thirty leagues, as far as its laft head-land called Maguari, beyond which I turned weftward, keeping in with the coaft of the ifland ; which in this diredion fpreads forty leagues, diverging fcarcely at all from the equatorial line. I pafled within fight of two great iflands which I left on the north, the one called Machiana, the other Caviana, now deferts, but once inhabited by the Arouas, who, though difperfed, have preferved their peculiar tongue. Thefe iflands, like the major part of the ifland of Marajo, are nearly level \\ith the water, fwampy, and almoft uninhabitable. I left the coaft of Marajo where the ifland bends towards the fouth, and once again enterd into the real bed, or principal channel of the Amazons, oppofite the new fort of Macapa, on the weftern bank of the river, tranfported by the Portuguefe two leagues to the northward of the antient fcite. It would be impoflible on this part to crofs the river in common boats, were not the channel narrowed. by fmall iflands, under flicker of which, by felefting favourable feafons, it is croflTed with fafety. From the laft ifland, howefer, to Macapa, there is ftill a diftance of two leagues. In this laft trip I at length repaflfed, for the laft time, the equinoctial line, towards which I had infenfibly progreflTed from the point of embarkation. At Fort Macapa, or, more properly fpeaking, on the fpot deftined for the new fort, on the 1 8th and 1 9th January, I obferved the latitude to be o*' 3' N. The bafement on which the fort is to be raifed is two or three toifes above high-water- mark. It is only the margin of the river in this part which is covered with trees, the land in the interior is open, the firft unwooded country which I had noticed fmce I had left the Cordillera of Quito. The natives aflfured me it continues thus towards the north, and that one might travel hence on horfe-back to the fources of the Oyapoc, over large open favannahs, on which but a few thinly growing fmall woods are feen at intervals. From the vicinage of the fources of the Oyapoc, are diftinguiflied, towards the north, the Aprouaga mountains, which alfo are diflindly perceptible at fea, many leagues from the coaft. Taking thus much for granted, it is evident that, departing from Cayenne in lat. 5° o' N. and proceeding fouthward, two, three, nay perhaps four degrees of the meridian might have been meafured without quitting the French terri- tory : in fliort, if chofen, one might, with permifllon from Portugal, have extended the line to the parallel of Macapa, that is to fay to the equator. This plan would K K 2 undoubtedly ■a 5 2 condamine's travels undoubtedly have been more eafy of execution than I conceived it myfelf when I pro« pofed it to the Academy twelve months before the voyage to Quito was projefted. Had my opinion been followed, there is every probability we fhould have returned years earlier : but it was only by infpedtion of the country could be determined that what I recommended was prafticable. Between Macapa and the North Cape, at that part where the main channel is moft confined by the iflands, and efpecially oppofite the wide mouth of the Arauary, which falls into the Amazons from the north, a fmgular phenomenon is obfervable in the flow of the tides. For the three days next to a new and full moon, the periods of the higheft tides, inftead of taking near fix hours in running up, the flood rufhes to its height in a couple of minutes, not, as may be conceived, in the moft tranquil manner. At the 4iftance of a league or two a frightful noife is diftinguiflied, the herald of the Pororoca, which is the name given by the Americans of the diftridl to this tremendous bore. In proportion as it advances, the noife increafes, and fhortly a promontory of water is feen, from twelve to fifteen feet high, which is fucceeded by a fecond, afterwards another, and fometimes again a fourth, rapidly impelled one after the other, and filling the whole breadth of the channel : this bore advances with prodigious rapidity, and carries away before it whatever oppofes refiftance. In fome places I faw large trafts of land torn from the main, immenfe trees rooted up, and, in fhort, devaftations of every kind, the effeds of its violence. Wherever it paffes, the fhore is as clean as if it were fwept with a broom. Canoes, pirogues, and even larger veflels, have no other means of fecurity from the fury of the bore than by anchoring in great depth of water. I fliall not in this place expatiate further on the fa6t, or its caufe, than to indicate the latter by obferving that, after attentively remarking the occurrence of this bore in feveral places, I found it no where happen, fave where the tide, running in by a narrow channel, encounters in its way a fand-bank, or fliallow, which obftrufts the progrefs of the volume of water it brings ; in fuch fpots this impetuous and irregular rufli of the waves commences, ceafing at a fhort diftance beyond where the channel begins to have greater depth or extenfion. Something fimilar is faid to happen at the Orcades, north of Scotland, frequently in the Briftol Channel, and occafionally in the mouth of the Garonne, near Bourdeaux, where a bore is called Le Mafcaret. The dread experienced by the chief of my Americans, of not being able, in the fpace of the five days wanting of the high tides of the full moon, to reach the North Cape, from which, however, we were but fifteen leagues diftant, and beyond which we fhould find fhelter, occafioned his determining, notwithftanding my entreaties to the contrary, to wait nine whole days on a defert ifland, until the moon fhould have fome time palled the full. Thence we reached Cape North in lefs than two days ; the day after that of the moon entering its laft quarter, when the neap tides occur, we grounded on a mud bank, and, at ebb, the fea retiredfar from us. The following day, the flood-tide failed of coming up to us ; in fine, I remained in the mud bank a whole week, during which my rowers, now without employ, had ample leifure to wander in fcarch of brackifli water, wading for the purpofe through mud up to the waift. For my part, I amufed myfelf as well as I could in this irkfome pofition, by repeating my obfervations within fight of Cape North, but, as may be guefl'ed, heartily wearied with remaining fo long in latitude 1° 51' N. My canoe, ftationary on mud hardened by the fun, became a fixed obfer- vatory. I found the variation of the compafs 4" E. ; two and a half degrees lefs E. than at Pauxis, and remarked, that on every fide I caft my eyes, nothing was to be feen but Mangle-trees, in lieu of thofe lofty mountains whofe points are fo circumftantially detailed in the defcription of the coaft which accompanies the charts given in the Flambeau dc IN SOUTH AMERICA. 253 de la Mer, a book tranflated from all languages, and which, in this part, feems rather calculated to miflead than afford any light to navigators. At length, at the approach of the full moon, the commencement of the fame bore fo much dreaded fet us afloat, but not without much danger, as it drove the canoe before it, and caufed it to pitch and labour more in the mud, and with even greater velocity, than I experienced while in the currents of the Pongo in the upper part of the river I had lately navigated, of which, at length, I faw the mouth. Here my chart of the Amazons river finiftied ; I continued, however, to take a plan of the coaft, and to make my obfervations of the latitudes, as far as Cayenne. At a diftance of fome leagues weft of the bank and under the fame parallel, I found a fecond mouth of the Arauari, now barred by the fands. This mouth, and the deep and broad' channel leading to it from the north, with the iflands in advance of the cape northward, are the river and bay of Vincent Pinion. The Por- tuguefe have their reafons for confounding it with the river Oyapoc, the mouth of which, by Cape D'Orange, lies in latitude 4° 15' N. ; yet, notwithftanding the article of the treaty of Utrecht confounds the Oyapoc with the river of Pinion, regarding them as one, they are neverthelefs fundered by a fpace of more than fifty leagues. This is a fadt that will not be difputed by any who have confulted the old charts of this country, and have read the original authors who wrote on America before the eftablifh- ment of the Portuguefe in Brazil. I found, by obfervations made on the 23d and 24th of February, that the French fort of Oyapoc ftands in latitude 3° 55' N. : its fite is on the north bank of the river, fix leagues up from its mouth. At length, after a voyage of two months by land, I may fay, as well as by fea, (for the coaft is fo flat between Cape North and the ifland of Cayenne, that the rudder conftantly grounded, or rather, never ceafed furrowing the mud, as half a league from fhore there was at times no more than a foot of water,) I arrivdd at Cayenne on the 36th February 1744. It is well known, that it was in this ifland M. Richer of this academy, in 1672, made difcovery of the inequality of weights under different parallels, and that his experiments were the bafe of the theories of Mr. Huygens and Sir Ifaac Newton refpefling the figure of the earth ; now, one of the motives which induced me to go to Cayenne, was a profpe<5l of the utility that would refult from a repetition of his experiments, as we are in the prefent day greatly accuftomed to them, and enabled to exercife far more precifion than formerly. I bring with me a fteel rule, which, according to my obfer- vations, is precifely of the fame length with the fimple pendulum at Cayenne ; but I look for ftill greater eyaftitude, from a comparifon of the number of the ofcillations of my fixed pendulum at Cayenne with the vibrations at Paris of the fame pendulum in equal fpace of time, when I fliall be enabled to make the experiment. This compari- fon will fliew the pofitive excefs of the number of the vibrations of the pendulum at Cay- enne over thofe of the pendulum vibrating feconds at Paris, the length of which is determined by M. Mairan ; and as more precifion was obferved by him in the afcertain- ment of the length of this pendulum than any by whom he had been preceded, it is fair to prefume it is cor reft. As an eftabliflied term may alfo be regarded the length of the pendulum afcertained at Quito, in various manners, and with different inftruments, by M. Godin, M. Bouguer, and myfelf, in which length we feverally agree to within lefs than the hundredth part of a line. But, from whichever point we proceed, the dif- ference between the number of ofcillations in the fpace of twenty-four hours of the fame pendulum at Quito, at Para, and at Paris *, determined by a long feries of expe- * It is queftionable, whether, in lieu of " Paris," {hould not be read •• Cayenne." Tr. riments 254 condamine's travels riments at each place, will give the precife length of a pendulum flriking feconds on the equinox at the level of the fea, that length the moft proper, by common confent, to be received as a univerfal meafure. Hovi^ defirable, indeed, were fuch a meafure, at leafl for mathematicians ! The diverfity of tongues, an inconvenience which yet mufl endure for many centuries, does it not prefent fufficient obftacles to the piogrefs of the fciences and the arts, by prefenting, in a degree, the requifite communication between different people ; but it mufl be ftill increafed, as one may fay, purpofely, by an affeftation of ufmg, in each country, and at each fpot, meafures and weights which conftantly vary one from the other, while nature, in the pendulum flriking feconds under the equator, prefents an invariable tefl, fo well adapted to the eflabUfliment of a common meafure and a common weight in every country ; one, too, which calls upon every lover of learning for its adoption ? The objedl of my firfl folicitude on reaching Cayenne was, to diflribute to various perfons feeds of Quinquina, or the Bai'k-tree, then only eight months old ; by means of thefe, I trufled to repair the lofs might be experienced by the failure of the young plants of that tree, the laft of which, preferved by me from the heat of the cHm.ate and the cafualties incident on fo long a voyage, had been carried away by a wave which, off Cape D'Orange, threatened our canoe with deflruclion. The feeds at Cayenne did not profper ; indeed, refleding on their delicacy, and their inevitable expofure to a high temperature, their profperity was more than could reafonably be expected. I have not, moreover, received any information refpedling the refult of thofe I committed to the management of the Jefuit miffionaries on the Upper Oyapoc, the mountainous ter- ritory and more temperate cHmate of whofe eflablifhment affmiilated, far more than Cayenne, with that of Loxa, whence the feeeds were brought. At Cayenne I obferved the latitude to be, as determined by M. Richer, 5° 56' N. ; but was at firfl furprifed to find, by four obfervations of the firfl fatellite of Jupiter, each of them agreeing with the others, that the difference between the meridians at Paris and Cayenne is nearly one degree lefs than is flated in the Coiinuifflince des Temps ; but I have fmce learnt, that M. Richer made no obfervation oF the fatellites of Jupiter at Cayenne, and that the longitude of this place was deduced from other obfervations made by him, in a manner very imperfect and much fubjett to error. A more enlarged detail on this fubje£t, as well as of my remarks on the tides, and the variation and dipping of the needle, made at the fame place, will more appropriately occur at our private meetings. Noticing that at Cayenne, the mountains of Courou, eflimated ten leagues diflant, were very diflinftly vifible, I conceived, that a fpot, whence the flafli and report of a cannon fired at the fort of Cayenne could be perceived, would be well adapted to the menfuration of the celerity of found in a climate fo different from that of Quito, where we had made a variety of experiments. M. d'Orvilliers, commandant of the fort, not only complied with my requefl of iffuing the requifite orders, but gladly undertook to fhare the toil with me on the occafion ; M. Frefneau, of the engineer corps, under- took, on his part, the hoifling of fignals, and afcertaining the celerity of the wind, with feveral other incidental matters. From five experiments made on two different days, four of which agreed within lefs than half a fecond in one hundred and ten, and from the diRance, which was concluded to be twenty thoufand two hundred and thirty toifes by trigonometrical calculations, in which a bafe twice meafured on a level beach of one thoufand nine hundred toifes was employed, we determined, as the mean refult of the celerity of found, deducting for that of the wind, that it flew at the rate of one hundred and eighty-three and a half toifes \i\ a fecond in this part, whereas its progrefs at IN SOUTH AMERICA. ^5S at Quito was only one hundred and feventy-five. The cannon ufed in thefe experi- ments was a twelve pounder. I took advantage of the angles I had already meafured, and the diflances afcertained in order to determine geometrically the pofitinn of thirty or forty points, as well in the ifland of Cayenne as on the continent and the coaft, among others, of certain rocks, and efpecially that called the Conftable, which ferves as a fea-work to fhips. I likewife took the angles of elevation of the moil; confpicuous capes and mountains. Their height, well afcertained, would fiirnifh pilots with a much better dependence than mere reckoning, for appreciati!ig, on catching fight of them, (and tliat without other trou- ble than confulting a fimple table,) their diftance from the coaft. It is but too well known how neceflary, on approaching the land, an exafl: knowledge of this is to the mariners ; nor is the help which geometry aflords to navigation, and which has been hitherto neglected, confined to this inftance alone. On another excurfion out of the iiland, in company with M. d'Orvilliers, we afcend- ed feveral rivers on the main, and meafured their courfes ; I alfo frequently took the latitudes, and thus obtained materials which, with the principal points I had before deter- mined, may ferve to form an exaft map of this colony, which is the more wanting, as there are none at prefent deferving the name. During my fojourn at Cayenne, I had the curiofity to try, if the venom of the poi- foned arrows, which I had preferved upwards of a year, ftill retained its adivity, and whether fugar be in reality as fecure an antidote as it is reprefented. The experiments for determining thefe points were made in prefence of the governor of the colony, of feveral officers of the garrifon, and of rhe King's phyfician. A pullet, flightly v/ounded ty a fmall arrow, which had been dipped in this poifon thirteen months before, and which was blown through a iarbacan, lived about half a quarter of an hour ; another, pricked in the wing with one of thefe fame arrows, newly dipped in the venom diluted with water and inrinediately withdrawn, feemed to faint a minute afterwards, was fliortly feized with convulfions, and, nctwiih (landing it was made to fwallow fugar while in this ftate, expired. A third, pricked with the fame arrow frefh dipped in the poifon, having had the fame rem.cdy immediately adminiftered, exhibited no fign of the leaft inconvenience. I repeated thefe experiments afterwards at Leyden in prefence of the celebrated profeflbrs, MuflTenbrock, Van Swieten, and Albinus, belonging to the uni- verfuy there, on the 1 3d January of this year. The poifon, the force of which was neceflarily diminilhed by length of time, and by the cold, did not produce its effeds in lefs than five or fix minutes ; but fugar was given to no purpofe in another inftance, the fowl which fwallovved it living but a ftiort time longer than the other *. The ex- periment v/as not repeated. This poifon is an extract made by boiling the juices of certain plants, efpecially particular lianas. For the venom ufed by the Ticunas, which is that I tried, and vvhich is held in higheft efteeein of all the different fpecies known along the river Amazqns, I am affured that more than thirty kinds of herbs or roots enter into its compofition. Thefe Americans conftantly follow the fame procefs in pre- parmg it, that handed down to them by their forefathers, and this with as nice exadti- tude as with us apothecaries in the compofition of the theriaca Andromachi, omitting not * Should this relation be perfeftly correft, it would appear that, although at a high temperature of the air fugar immediately taken on tlie blood becoming infe£ted with this poifon, may be regarded as a remedy and antidote, it lofes its efficacy when adminiftered in a cold climate. The temperature, at the time the experiment was made at Cayenne, in July, would be about 80° Fahr., while that at Leyden, in the midll of winter, was poflibly below 30*. Trans. the 256 condamine's TRA\'XLS the fmallefl ingredient, although it is highly probable the great multiplicity of com- ponents is as little requifite in the American poifon as in the European antidote. It will no doubt occafion furprife, that among a people who poflefs an inftrument fo certain and fo quick of efFeft, with which to fatiate their vengeance, their jealoufy or hate, It fliould be fatal to monkeys or birds alone. It is the more to be admired, as a miffionary, ever dreaded, and often held in abhorrence by thefe neophytes, towards whom his fundions admit not of {hewing that indulgence'they exad, though furrounded by them, lives without fear or miftrufl of harm ; and what fhould flill farther increafe our admiration, thefe innoxious people are favages, for the major part deftitute of the leaft idea of religion ! Having learnt, while at Cayenne, the marvellous and even novel facEl, of the multi- plication of Polypi, difcovered by M. Trembley, and fince confirmed by the experi- ments of M. Reaumur, M. de Juflieu, and a variety of other naturalifts, I made fome trials on fea-polypi of large fize, which, off this coafl:, are very common. My firft experiments were not attended with fuccefs, and an illnefs with which I was feized, prevented my repeating them as I intended. Five months' Itay at Cayenne, without feeing the King's fh^ arrive, which was expefted, and without receiving any news from France, a pleafure of which I had been deprived for five years, made more impreflion upon me than nine years' travelling and fatigue. I was attacked with a lovraefs of fpirits and the jaundice, from which I found greater relief than from all medicine, in the extremely polite anfwer I received from M. Mauricius, governor of the Dutch colony of Surinam, in which he invited me to his houfe at Surinam, and offered me a pailage to Holland, engaging to furnifh me with a paffport in cafe of rupture between France and the States General. I loft not a mo- ment ; and, after a ftay of fix months at -Cayenne, I left it in a convalefcent ftate on the 2 2d Auguft 1744, in a King's barge, furnifhed me by M. Orvilliers, with a ferjeant belonging to the garrifon, who had command only over the rowers. In confequence, this trip was much fliorter than that from Para to Cayenne. I flopped on the way no longer than was necefiary to complete my crew of Americans. The miffionary father at Senamary procured me a fufficient number of hands, not with ftanding the rumour of a contagious diftemper exifting at Surinam, which, though falfe, had fpread to a dif- tance a general panic among the natives. Deducting ftoppages, now voluntary, and now conftrained, I was fomewhat more than fixty hours on my voyage from Cayenne to the river of Surinam, which I entered the 27th. On the 28th, I afcended the river the height of five leagues, which brought me to Paramaribo, the capital of the Dutch colony of Surinam, the governor of which, in his condud, furpaffed the expedations I had formed from his obliging letters. I ob- ferved the latitude, which I found to be 5*^ 49' N. ; and 1 likewife made feveral other obfervations during the five days I flopped : on the 3d September, I embarked on board a merchant fhip bound to Amfterdam. The 29th, we difpenfed with {hewing my paflTport to an Englifh cruifer, owing to the bad weather ; this, however, would probably have met with little refpeft, as, at firft fight, the cruifer faluted us with {hot, to make us fend our boat on board, notwith ftanding we were under Dutch colours. On the 6th November, at the entrance of the channel, we were accofted by a cruifer from St. Maloes for a finiilar purpofe, but in a lefs difcourteous manner, for, coming within hail, the captain was fatisfied, on the affurance I gave him, mentioning who I was, of whence we were, that he was merely lofing time with us. On the 16th, at the entrance of the Texel, we took on board a coafting pilot to conduit us into port ; 9 - but. V ^ .^ 4 5 I IN SOUTH AMERICA. 257 but, forced to keep aloof from the land we fought, we kept wandering about at random, conllantly founding, and accompanied with conftant fogs, for fifteen of the Ihortefl: days of the year, furrounded all the time by fhoals and fliallows. One night we diftinguifhed the Scheveling lights, feldom feen with impunity ; at length we diftinguiflied the fliore of Vlieland, while our pilots, by their reckoning, imagined us within fight of the Texel. The 30th November, in the evening, I landed at Amfterdam, where, and at the Hague, I waited two months for the paflports requifite to crofs the Low Countries. I am indebted for thofe from England to Mr. Trevor, the minifter of that nation at the Hague, who, without hefitation, granted them to the entreaty of M. I'Abbe de la Ville, the French ambaffador ; for thofe from the minifler of the Queen of Hun- gary, I am obliged to Lord Bentinck. To conclude ; — on the 23d February 1745, I arrived in Paris, after a lapfe of ten years from my departure thence. Letter of M. De la Condamine, written /;z 1773, to M. **** ; giving an Account of the Fate of thofe Ajironomers who participated in the requifite Operations for the Meafurement of the Earthy begun in ly^^. You feel interefled. Sir, in the labours of the Academy of Sciences undertaken for the meafurement of the earth, and are anxious to learn the fate of all who were em- ployed on this great work abroad fmce the year 1735 ; well might I anfwer you in the words of Virgil, — Apparent ran nantes in gurgite vafto. \ But few remain buoyed on the extenfive wafte. We failed from Rochelle in the month of May 1735, provided with paflports from His Catholic Majefty Philip V., for the purpofe of meafuring the degrees next the equator in his South American dominions. Our party confifted of three members of the Academy, M. Godin, M. Bouguer, and myfelf; of M. Jofeph de Juffieu, M. D. regent of the Faculty at Paris, and brother of the two other academicians, admitted likewife, during his abfence, a member of the academy ; M. Seniergues, a furgeon ; M. Verguin, engineer in the navy ; M. de Morainville, draughtfman for the department of Natural Hiftory ; M. Couplet, a nephew of the academician of that name ; M. Godin des Odonais, who will form the chief fubjefl: of this letter ; and M. Hugo, a watch and mathematical inftrument-maker : at Carthagena, in America, v/e were, moreover, joined by two lieutenants of Spanilh Ihips, appointed by the court of Madrid to accompany us during our obfervations. The following year M. de Maupertuis, nominated for the meafurement of the de- grees of the meridian under the Ardic Circle, embarked at Rouen, accompanied by Meflrs. Clairaut, Camus, and Monnier the younger, academicians, M. I'Abbe Outhier, M. Celfms, a Swedifh aftronomer, and others. In 1751, M. I'Abbe de la Caille, an academician, fet fail for the Cape of Good Hope, on which expedition the meafurement of two degrees of the meridian was one of his llghteft labours. Of the five travellers to the Ardic Circle, only M. Monnier at prefent furvives. The Abbe de la Caille, who undertook alone the voyage to the Cape, and whofe health appeared proof againft every attack, on his return to Paris died, a martyr to his aftro- VOL. XIV. L L nomical ijS cokdamine's travels nomlcal zeal, in 1762; and M. I'Abbc Chappe d'Auteroche, an academician, the junior of the laft mentioned, whom he took for his model, experienced in California, in 1769, a fimilar deltiny. Of my companions on the voyage to the equator, M. Couplet, the mofl: robuft and one of the youngeil:, was can-ied otl", three days after his arrival at Quito, by a putrid fever. M. Seniergues, our furgeon, was killed in a popvilar commotion at Cuenca. M. Bouguer in 17 158 died of an abfcefs of the liver. M. Godin, after entering the Spanifli fervice, in which he was appointed to the direction of the Academy of Naval Guards at Cadiz, younger than IVI. Bougaer, furvived the latter but two years. M. de Morainville, who remained in the province of Quito, met with death by fitlling from the fcantling of a church, of which he was tlie architect, at Cicalpa, in the vicinage of Riobomba. Of M. Hugo, who married at Quito, I have received no intelligence thefe fifteen years back. I do not enumerate how many of our fervants, white as well as of colour, who died in the courfe of our travels ; two of them of a violent death. Commander Don Jorge Juan, the fupcrior of the two Spaniih officers attached to our party, made a poft-captain on his return to Spain, and afterwards commandant of the Naval Guards, commodore, and amballador to Morocco, though younger than molt of us, died lately of apoplexy at Madrid, Dr. Jofeph de Juffieu, long detained by thi" Audencia Real of Quito for the benefit of his profeflional afiiftance, and afterwards by the Viceroy of Lima, returned to Paris two years ba-ck : as formerly the famous M. Mabirion, lie has loft his memory, but, not fo fortunate as he, to M. de Juiheu it has neA'er returned ; for this laft gentleman jnd myfelf I know not whether in iuitice we can both together be reckoned equivalent to one living being. A deafncfs, which I began to experience in America, is become excefllve ; and for thefe laft five years I have been deprived of all external feeling in my lower members, the vitality of which I am ren- dered ienfible of only by the pains I experience in them on change of weather. Tiius, of eleven travellers in the Torrid Zone, exclufivc of fervants, the only ones deferving to be reckoned alive, are M. Verguin, naval engineer at Toulon ; Don Antonio dii UHoa, commodore in the Spanifii navy, and late governcn" of Louifiana (nor indeed are either of thefe exempt from infirmities) ; and M. Godin des Odonais, who, after thirty- eight years* abfence, has lately reached Paris, and who has furnilhed me with matter calculated to afford you entertainment. I received from him, in the month of Auguft laft, in confequencc of entreaty that he would favour me with a narrative of the travels of his wife, a lady known to me from her infancy, and of whofe adventures I had heard but a confufed account, the letter of which I inclofe you a tranfcript : by it you will fee what miracles may be effc£tcd by refolution and perfeverance. Callous indeed muft be that heart which can reniain unmoved at the recital of the fhocking misfortunes of an amiable woman brought up with tendernefs, who, by a feries of events not to be avoided bv human forefight, found herfelf in the depth of impervious forefts, the haunts ot ferocious beafts and dangerous reptiles, and there expofed to all the horrors incident on tliirft, on hunger, and fatigue ; and who, after beholding feven perfons who accom- panied her fink under the weight of fuch diftrefs, and expire by her fide, wandered, an infulate being, the only one furviving for feveral days through this defert ; finally, who, by providence, bordering on a miracle, efcaped ail the perils of her critical fitua- tion. You will at the fame tin\e notice the munificence of His Portuguefe Majefty towards M. Godin, and the liberal demeanor of the officers charged with the execution of his orders. Upon reprefentation made to him by M. Godin, the beneficent miniftcr (M. le Due de Vrilhere), whole department ciubraccs the Academies, has recently obtained for 6 him IV SOUTH A^rERICA, 259 him from His Majefty a penfiofi, well earned by his zeal and toil during our operations, and by the long exile he endured from a country to which he was fo anxious to return. Letter to M. De la Coxdamine from M, Godin des Odonais. Sir, St. Amand, Berry, 28th July 1775. You require of me a narrative of the travels of my fpoufe along the Amazons river, the fame route I followed after you. The rumours which have reached your ears of the dangers to which fhe was expofed, and which Ihe alone of eight perfons furmounted, augment your curiofity. I had refolved never to fpeak of them again, fo painfid to me w as the recolleftion of them ; but, as an old companion in your travels, a diftinftion which I prize, I cannot refufe in turn for the interefl you take in our welfare, and the marks of friendfhip you have fhewn me, to give you the fatisfadion you require. We landed at Rochelle on the 26th of June laft, after a paflagefrom Cayenne, eifefl:- ed in fixty-five days, having left this laft place on the 2 1 ft of April. On our arrival, I made enquiries after you, and leart with much grief that four or five months had elapfed fince you were no more. While yet in tears, my wife and myfelf were delighted on wiping them away, to find that at Rochelle the literary journals, and what regards the Academy, are far lefs read than the news which relates to commerce. Accept, Sir, for yourfelf and Mad. de la Condamine our heartiefl congratulations. You will recollect that the laft time I had the honour of feeing you in 1 742, previous to your leaving Quito, I told you that I reckoned on taking the fame road that you were about to do, along the river of Amazons, as much owing to the wifh I had of knowing this way, as to infure for my wife the moft commodious mode of travelling, by faving her a long journey over-land, through a mountainous country, in which the only convey- ance is on mules. You took the pains in the courfe of your voyage to give information at the Spanifh and Portugueze miflions eflablifhed on its banks, that one of your compa- nions would follow you; and, though feveral years elapfed from the period of your leaving them, this had not been forgotten. IVIy wife was exceedingly felicitous of fee- ing Fnuice, but her repeated pregnancies, for feveral years after your departure, pre- vented my confent to her being expofed to the fatigues incident on fo long a voyage. Towards the clofe of 1748 L received intelligence of the death of my father; and my prefence thence becoming indifpenfable for the arrangement of my family affairs, I re- folved on repairing to Cayenne by myfelf down the river ; and planning every thing on the way to enable my wife to foll6w the fame road with comfort, I departed in March 1749 from the Quito, leaving Mad. Godin at that time pregnant. I arrived at Cayenne in April following, and immediately wrote to M. Rouille, then miniiler of the navy, in- treating him to procure me paffports and recommendations to the court of Portugal, to enable me to afcend the Amazons, for the purpofe of proceeding to my family, and bringing it back with me by the fame channel. Any one but you. Sir, might be fur- prifed at my undertaking thus lightly a voyage of fifteen hundred leagues, for the mere purpofe of preparing accommodations for a fecond : but you will know that travels in that part of the world are undertaken with much lefs concern than in Europe ; and bv thofe I had made during twelve years for reconnoitring the ground for the meridian of Quito, for fixing fignals on the loftieft mountains, in going to and returning from Car- thagena, had made me perfectly a veteran. I availed myfelf of the opportunity afforded by the conveyance which took my letters to forward feveral objects pertaining to natural hiftory for the King's garden ; among others, feed of the farfaparilla, and of the L L 3 five 26o condamine's tra\tels five fpecies of the Butua ; Avith thefe alfo a grammar, printed at Lima, of the language of the Incas, which I defigned as a prefent for M. de BufFon, from whom I received no anfwer. By that with which I was honoured from M. Rouille, I learnt that His Majefly had been pleafed to direft that the governor and intendant of Cayenne fliould both fur- nifli me with recommendations to the government of Para. Upon this, I wrote to you. Sir, and you were fo obliging as to folicit paffports for me. You moreover favoured me with a letter of recommendation from Commander La Cerda, minifter of Portugal to France, addrefled to the governor of Para, with a letter from M. TAbbe de la Ville, which informed you that my paflports had been expedited, and forwarded to Para. I enquired refpefting them of the governor of that place, who expreffed his entire igno- rance of the fadl:. I repeated my letters to M. Rouille, who then was no longer In the miniftry. Since that time I renewed my letters every year, four, five, and even fix times, for the purpofe of obtaining my paflports, and conftantly without effeft. Many of my letters were loft, or intercepted, during the war, of which I the lefs doubt from your having ceafed to receive any, notwithftanding I regularly continued my correfpondence. At length, hearing cafually that M. le Comte d'Herouville was in the confidence of M. de Choifeul, I ventured, in 1765, to write to the former of thefe noblemen, although I had not the honour of being known to him, explaining in a few words who I was, and entreating him to intercede with the Due de Choifeul for the tranfmiflion of my pafT- ports. To the kindnefs of this nobleman alone can I attribute the fuccefs that followed this ftep ; for, the tenth month from the date of myietter to M. le Comte de Herouville, I law a decked galliot arrive at Cayenne, equipped at Para by order of the King of Por- tugal, manned with thirty oars, and commanded by a captain of the garrifon of Para, in- ftruded to bring me to Para, thence tranfport me up the river as high as the firft Spanlfh fettlement, to wait there till I returned with my family, and ultimately re-con- du6l me to Cayenne, all at the fpecial charge of His Moft Faithful Majefty ; a liberality truly loyal, and fuch as is little common among fovereigns. We left Cayenne at the clofe of November 1765, in order to take in property belonging to me at the fort of Oyapoc, where I refided. Here I fell fick, and even dangeroufly fo. M. de Rebello, the cap- tain, a knight of the order of Chrift, was fo complaifant as to wait for me fix weeks ; finding at length that I ftill continued too ill to venture on the voyage, and, fearful of abufing the patience of this officer, I befought him to continue his route, and that he would permit me to put fome one on board, to whom I might entruft my letters, and who might fill my place in taking care of my family on its return. I cart my eyes on Triftan D'Oreafaval, a perfon whom I had long known, and in whom I had confidence. The packet I entrufted to him contained the orders of the Father-general of the Jefuits to the Provincial of Quito, and the Superior of the miflions of Maynas, for furnilhing the canoes and equipage neceiTary for the voyage of my fpoufe. The inftrudions I gave to Triftan were fimplyto deliver thofe letters to the Superior, refident at La Laguna, the capital of the Spanifh millions of Maynas, whom I entreated to forward my letters to Riobamba, in order that my wife might receive information of the veflel difpatched by His Majefty of Portugal, at the recommendation of the King of France, to bring her to Cayenne. Triftan was further direfted to wait an anfwer from Riobamba at Laguna. He failed from Oyapoc on the 24th January 1766, and arrived at Loreto, the firft efta- blinmient belonging to Spain on afcending the river, in the month of July or Auguft of the fame year. Loreto is a miflion eftablifhed below that of Pevas fince the period of your coming down the riv^er in 1743 ; nay, both this and the Portugueze miffion of Savatinga, above that of St. Pablo, which was before their laft fettlement up the river, have been founded fince my paflage defcending in 1749. The better to comprehend t4 what IN SOUTH AMERICA. Sfil what I now defcrlbe, it may be well you fhould caft your eyes over the chart made by you of the courfe of the Amazons, or that of the province of Quito, inferted in your Hiftorical Journal of the Voyage to the Equator. The Portugueze officer, M. de Re- bello, after landing Triftan at Loreto, returned to Savatinga, in conformity to the orders he had received of waiting there until Madame Godin mould arrive ; and Triftan, in lieu of repairing to Laguna, the capital of the Spanifli miffions, and there delivering his letters to the Superior, meeting with a miflionary Jefuit, called Father Yefquen, who was on his return to Quito, by an unpardonable overfight, which had every appearance of a bad intent, delivered to his care the packet of letters. This was addreffed to Laguna, fome days' journey from the fpot where Triftan was : but in lieu of attending to this circumftance, he fent it five hundred leagues beyond, to the other fide of the Cordil- leras, and himfelf remained in the Portuguefe miffions, carrying on trade. You will pleafe to notice that, befides different articles which I had enirufted him to difpofe of for me, I had furnifhed him in addition with more than fufficient to defray all expence in travelling through the Spanifh miffions. Spite, however, of his bad conduft, a vague rumour obtained circulation through the province of Quito, and reached the ears of Madame Godin, not only of letters addreffed to her being on their way in the cuftody of a Jefuit, but alfo, that in the uppermoft miffions of Portugal a veffel equipped by His Moft Faithful Majefty had arrived to tranf- port her to Cayenne. Her brother, a monk of the order of Auguftins, in conjunftion with Father Terol, a provincial Dominican, exerted themfelves much to induce the Pro- vincial of the Jefuits to obtain thefe letters. The Jefuit who received them at length made his appearance, and ftated he had delivered them to another ; this other, being interrogated, replied, he had committed them to a third : but, notwithftanding the moft diligent perquifition, the letters never were found. With refpeft to the arrival of the veffel, opmions differed, fome giving credit to, while others difputed the fad. To ven- ture on a voyage of fuch length without any certainty, and preparatory thereto to ar- range all family affairs, and part with her furniture, was what Madame Godin could not, without much rifk and imprudence, refolve upon : fhe determined on the com- mendable medium of difpatching a faithful negro, who departed with fome Americans, but who, in confequence of obftacles, was obliged to return. His miftrefs fent him for- ward a fecond time with new inftrudions, and means of furmounting the difficulties which had prevented his progrefs before. More fortunate on this fecond trip, the negro reached Loreto, faw and communicated with Triftan, and, returning, acquainted Madame Godin of the reality of the report, and that Triftan was at Loreto. Upon this fhe determined on her journey, fold part of her furniture, but left the reft, as well as her houfe at Riobamba, a garden and eftate at Guaflen, and another property of ours between Galte' and Maguazo, to her brother-in-law. Some idea of the length of time which elapfed fince the month of September 1 766, at which epoch the letters were de- livered to the Jefuit, may be formed by computing how long the journey of the reve- rend father to Quito will have occupied, how much time would be loft in feeking the letters, in enquiry into the fad of the rumour, in hefitating about what was beft to do, and by the two journeys of the negro to Loreto and back to Riobamba, by the fale alfo of our effects, and the requifite preparations for a voyage of fuch length ; in fad, thefe prevented her fetting out from Riobamba, forty leagues fouth of Quito, before the ift of Odober 1769. The arrival of the Portuguefe veffel was rumoured at Guayaquil, and even as far as the fhore of the South Sea ; for M. R., who reported himfelf to be a French phyfician, coming from Upper Peru, and on his way to Panama and Porto Bello, in view of paffing thence 262 CONDAMIXF.'s TRAVELS thence to Santo Domingo, Martinico, or, at any rate, to the Ilavannah, and from that place to Europe, touching at Point Saint Helena, learnt there that a lady of Rio- bamba was on the point of fetting out tor the Amazons river, and embarking thence in a veiTel equipped by the order of His Portugueze Majelly, to take her to Cayenne. This engaged him to change his route, and afcending the Guayaquil river, he proceeded to Riobamba to entreat Madame Godin to grant him a pallagc, undertaking in return to watch over her health, and llicw her every attention. At firft fhe aniVercd, that flie had no authority to grant his rcqueft ; but M. R. ap- plying to her two brothers, they reprefented to her fo urgently that flie might have need of the afliflance of a phyfician on lb long a voyage, that fhe at length confented to his accompanying her. ller two brothers, who likewife were fetting out for Europe, hefitated not an inftant to avail themfelves of the opportunity which now otibixd of haftening their arrival, the one at Rome, whither he was called by buiineis relative to his order, the other in Spain, where his private alfairs required his preience. The latter rook with him a fon about nine or ten years of age, whom he wilhed to educate in France. I\T. de Grandmaifon, my father-in-law, went on before to obtain every poflible accommodation for his daughter on the road, to the point of embarkation beyond the great Cordillera. He at firft met wath obftacles from the prcfident and captain-general of the province of Ouito ; for you, Sir, are aware that the pafl'age by the Amazons is forbidden by the Spanifli court ; but thefe difficulties were foon overcome. On my return from Carthagena, whither I had been difpatched on matters relative to our company in 1 740, I brought back with me a paffport from the viceroy of Santa Fe, Don Sebaftian de Eflava, authorifing our taking whatever road we pleaied ; and in confequence of the produtlion of this, the Spanifh governor of the province of Maynas and Omaguas, informed of the ap- proach of Madame Godin, politely fent to meet her a canoe llored with refrcfliments, inch as fruit, milk, &c. which reached her a little dilbnce from the town of Oma- guas ; but to what misfortunes, what a horrible fituation was flie not expofcd before that happy moment I She left her rcfidence of Riobamba with her efcort on the lit of October 1769; and with thefe Ihe reached Canelos, the fpot at which they were to embark, fituate on the little river Bobonafa, which empties itfelf into the Paftaca, as that laft does into the Amazons. M. de Grandmaifon, who preceded them a month on the way, found the village of Canelos well inhabited, and immediately embarked, continuing his journey, to prepare every thing neceffary for the tranfpnrt of his daugh- ter at eacli itage of her way. As he knew that flie was accompanied by her brothers, aph)fician, her negro, and three female mulattoes or Americans, he proceeded on fo the Portuguefe miflions. In the interval, however, between his journey and the arrival of my wife, the fmall pox, an European import, more fatal to the Americans in this part than the plague, which is fortunately here unknown, is to the people of Levant, had cauled the village of Canelos to be utterly abandoned by its population, 'i'hey had feen thofe firft attacked by this diftemper irremediably carried off, and had in conlequunce difperfed among the woods, where each had his own hut, fei ving as a country-retreat. On her departure my wife was eicorted by thirty -one i\mcrican natives to carry herfelf and baggage. You know. Sir, that this road, the fame purfued by M. de Maldonado, is inipradicable even for mules ; that thofe capable, eiiccf the pallagc on foot, but that others are carried. The Americans who eicorted JNIadame (Jodin, who were paid in advance according to the bad cultom in this country, a cuftom found- ed on mifiruft, at times but too well founded, fcarcely reached Canelos before they retraced their fteps, either from dread of the air being infetted, or from apprchenfion of t\* SOITTI AMERIC.W 26 S of being obliged to eil'ibark, a matter obnoxious in extreme to individuals 'who had perhaps never feen a canoe in their lives but at a dillance. Nay fuch excufes are poilibly fuperfluous, for you well know how often we are abandoned by them on our mountains, on no pretence whatever. What under fuch circumftances was to be done? Had my wife been able to return, yet the defire of reaching the veflel waiting her, together with lier anxiety to rejoin a huiband from whom fhe had been parted twenty years, were incentives powerful enough to make her, in the peculiar circum- ftances in wliich (lie was placed, brave even greater obftacles. In the village only two Indians remained free from the contagion ; thefe had no boat, but they engaged to conftruct one and pilot it to the million of Andoas, about twelve davs' journey below, defcending the river Bobonaza, a diflance of from one hundred and forty to one hundred and fifty leagues ; Ihe paid them beforehand ; the canoe being finiihed, they all departed from Canelos. Alter navigating the river two days, on the fucceeding morning the pilots abfconded ; the unfortunate party embarked without any one to Iteer the boat, and parted the day without accident. The next day at noon, they difcovered a canoe in a fmall port adjoining a leal-built hut, in which was a native recovering from illnefs, who confented to pilot them. On the third day of his voyage, while itooping over to recover the Iiat of Mr. K., which had fallen into the water, the poor man fell overboard, and, not having fufficient Itrength to reach the fhore, was drowned. Behold the canoe, again without a lleerfman, abandoned to individuals pcrteclly ignorant "of managing it ; in confequence it was fliortly overfet, which obliged the party to land, and build themfelvcs a hut. They were now but from five to iix days journey from Andoas. Mr. R. propofed to repair thither, and fet oft' with another Frenchman of the party, and the faithful negro belonging to Madame Godin, taking efpecial care to carry his eft'eCls with him. 1 fince blamed my wife for not having diipatched one of her brothers to accompany Mr. R., but found that neither of them, after the accident which had befallen the canoe, were inclined to trull themfelves on the water again, without a proper pilot ; Mr. R. moreover proniifed that within a fortnight a canoe fliould be forwarded to them with a proper complement of natives. The fortnight expired, and even five and twenty days, when, giving over all hopes, they conllruded a raft on which they ventured themfelves, with their provifions and property. The raft, badly framed, ftruck againfl the branch of a funken tree, and overfet, all their effects perifiiing in the waves, and the whole party being plunged into the water. Thanks to the little breadth of the river at this place no one was drowned, Madame Godin being happily faved, after twice finking, by her brothers. Placed now in a fituation flill more diftreffing than before, they coUeftively refolvcd on tracing the courfe of the river along its banks. How difficult of eft'eci this enterprlfe, you. Sir, are well aware, who know how thickly the banks of the rivers are befet with trees, underwood, herbage and lianas, and that it is often neceffary to cut one's way. They returned to their hut, took what provifions they had left behind, and began their journey. By keeping along the river's fide they found its finuofities greatly lengthened their way, to avoid which inconvenience they penetrated the wood, and in a few days they loll themfelves. Wearied with fo many days' march in midll of woods, incom- modious even for thcfe accullomed to them, their feet torn by thorns and brambles, their provifions exhaulled, and dying with third, they were fain to fubfifl on a few feed, wild fruit, and the palm cabbage. At length, opprelfed with hunger and thirft, with laflitude and lofs of flrength.. they feated themfelves on the ground without the power of rifing, and, waiting thus the approach of death, in three or four days expired one utter the other. Madame Godin, ilretcbcd, ou the ground by the fide of ti^e corpfes cf i64 condamine's travels of her brothers and other companions, ftupified, delirious, and tormented with choak- ing thirft, at lengtli aflumed refolution and ftrength enough to drag herfelf along in fearch of the falvation which providentially awaited her. Such was her deplorable condition fhe was without fhoes, and her clothes all torn to rags ; flie cut the fhoes off her brothers' feet, and faftened the foles on her own. It was about the period between the 25th and 30th of December 1769 that this unfortunate party (at leaft feven of the number of them) periflied in this miferablc manner ; the date I gather by what I learn from the only furvivor, who related that it was nine days after fhe quitted the fcene of the wretched cataftrophe defcribed before fhe reached the banks of the Bobo- nafa. Doubtlefs this interval muft have appeared to her of great length, and how a female fo delicately educated and in fuch a flate of want and exhauflion, could fupport her diftrefs, though but half the time, appears moll wonderful. She affured me that Ihe was ten days alone in the wood, two, awaiting death by the fide of her brothers, the other eight wandering at random. The remembrance of the fhocking fpedacle fhe ■witneffed, the horror incident on her folitude and the darknefs of night in a defert, the perpetual apprehenfion of death, which every inflant ferved but to augment, had fuch effeft on her fpirits as to caufe her hair to turn grey. On the fecond day's march, the diftance neceffarily inconfiderable, fhe found water, and the fucceeding day fome wild fruit and frefh eggs, of what bird fhe knew not, but which, by her defcription, I conjecTture to have been a fpecies of partridge. Tliefe with the greatefl difficulty was fhe enabled to fwallow, the osfophagus, owing to the want of aliment, having become fo much parched and flraitened ; but thefe and other food fhe accidentally met with, fufficed to fupport her fkeleton frame. At length, and not before it was indifpenfable, arrived the fuccour defigned for her by providence. Were it told in a romance that a female of delicate habit, accuflomed to all the com- forts of life, had been precipitated into a river ; that, after being withdrawn when on the point of drowning, this female, the eighth of a party, had penetrated into unknown and pathlefs woods, and travelled in them for weeks, not knowing whither fhe direfted her fleps ; that, enduring hunger, thirfl, and fatigue to very exhauflion, fhe fliould have feen her two brothers, far more robufl than her, a nephew yet a youth, three young women her fervants, and a young man, the domeflic left by the phyfician who had gone on before, all expire by her fide, and fhe yet furvive ; that, after remaining by their corpfes two whole days and nights, in a country abounding in tigers and num- bers of dangerous ferpents, without once feeing any of thefe animals or reptiles, fhe fhould afterwards have flrength to rife, and continue her way, covered but with tatters, through the fame pathlefs wood for eight days together till fhe reached the banks of the Bobonala, the author would be charged with inconfiflency ; but the hillorian fhould paint fafts to his reader, and this is nothing but the truth. The verity of this mar- vellous tale is attefted by original letters in my hands, from many miffionaries on the Amazons who felt an intcrell in this event, and by other proofs as will be feen in the fequcl of this narrative. Thefe misfortunes would have been avoided altogether but for the infidelity of Triflan, but for his negleft, in lieu of flopping at Loreto, of deli- vering as inftruded, in perfon, my letters to the Superior at Laguna ; with this precau- tion on his part my wife would, as her father had done, have found the village of Canelos peopled with natives, and a canoe ready to convey her forward. To return, it was on the eighth or ninth day, according to Madame Godin, after ] 'aving the cweadful fcene of the death of her companions, that flie found herfelf on the banks of the Bobonafa. At day-break fhe heard a noife at about two hundred paces from her. Her firfl emotions, which were thofe of terror, occafioned her to flrike I m SOUTH AMERICA. 265 ftrike into the wood ; but, after a moment's reflection, fatisfied that nothing worfe could pofTibly befal her, than to continue in her prefent ftate, and that alarm was therefore childifh, flie proceeded to the bank of the river, and perceived two native Americans launching a boat into the flream. It is the cuftom of thefe people, on their landing to pafs the night, to draw their canoe either wholly, or parti?'ly on fhore, as a fecurity againft accidents, for fhould it be left afloat, and the faf ening tackle break, it would be carried away by the current, and leave t'-":- iv,epers on fliore in a truly helplefs fl:ate. The natives, perceiving Madame G -am, advanced towards her, on which flie conjured them to tranfport her to Andoas : they had been driven by the con- tagion prevalent at Canelos to withdraw with their wives to a hut they had at a difliance, and were then going to Andoas. They received my wife on board with kindnefs truly afFeclionate, fliewed every attention to her wants, and conduced her to that village. Here flie might have fliopped fome days to refl: herfelf and recruit her ftrength, (and well may it be conceived flie had great need of refl:, J but, indignant at the condutV of the miflionary at whofe mercy flie was left, and with whom for that reafon flie was obliged to diflemble, flie refolved on making no fl:ay at Andoas, nor would even have fl:opped a fingle night had it been poflible to be avoided. A great revolution in the miflions of Spanifli America dependent upon Lima, Quito, Charcas, and Paraguay, founded and adminifliered to by the Jefuits, for from one to two centuries, had recently taken place. An unexpefted order from the .ouit of Madrid expelled them from all their colleges and miflions ; they had iii „oiifequence been every where arrefl:ed, put on board, and tranfported to the pope's dominions. This event, however, had occafioned no more difl:urbance than would have done the change of a village-redor. In lieu of them, the fecular clergy were fubftituted, of which clafs was the individual who otEciated as miflionary at Andoas, an iniividual whofe name I wifli to baniia from my memory. Madame Godin, fliripped of almofl: every thing, not knowing otherwife how to teftify her gratitude to the two Americans who had faved her life, took from her neck two chains of gold, fuch as are ufually worn in this country, of about four ounces weight, and gave one to each of them, whofe ad- miration at the richnefs of the prefent equalled that they would have experienced had the heavens opened before them ; but the miflionary, in her very prefence, took poflfeflion of the chains, and gave the poor Americans in lieu about three or four yards of coarfe cotton, fuch as is manufadlured in the country, and called Tucuyo. Conduft thus infamous exafperated my wife to fuch a degree that flie infl:antly demanded a canoe and men, and the next day fet out for Laguna. A female American at Andaos made a cotton petticoat for her, which flie fent to pay for immediately on reaching La- guna, and which flie preferves with care, with the ibles of the flaoes of her brothers, converted by her into fandals ; — mournful tokens, rendered dear to me as they are to her herfelf! While my wife was yet wandering in the woods, her faithful negro, with a party of Americans from Andoas, afceaded the river. M. R. thinking more of his own aft'airs than forwarding the boat which fhould recall his benefactors to life, fcarcely reached Andoas before he departed with his companion and baggage for Omaguas. The negro, on reaching- the hut where he left his mifl;refs and her brothers, traced them through the woods, in company with his companions, until he came to the fpot where their corpfes laid, already putrid and uncognizable. At fight of thefe, perfuaded that no one had efcaped death, the negro and his companions returned to the hut, coUefted what had been left there, and again reached at Andoas before my wife arrived there. The negro thence repaired to "M. R. at Omaguas, and delivered to him the property of his \^0L. XIV. M M miftrefs. 266 ' condamine's travels miftrefs. This man was not ignorant that M. Grandmaifon, who had reached Loretoj awaited there with impatience the arrival of his children. A letter in my pofleirion even proves that my father-in-law, informed that the negro Joachim was at Omaguas, ad- vifed Triftan to repair thither and bring him forward ; but neither Triftan nor M. R, thought fit to fatisfy him, and fo far from complying with his requeft, M. R., of his own accord, fent the negro back to Quito, keeping the property he had brought back with him. You know. Sir, that Laguna is not fituate on the Amazons, but fome leagues up the Guallaga, a tributary of the former river. Joachim difmilTed by M. R. did not in courfe proceed to Laguna in fearch of his miftrefs, whom he imagined dead, but returned to Quito, and thus have we loft his fervices. You will certainly be far from guefling the excufe of M. R. for fending away a faithful fervant who was fo much wanted by us. " I was afraid," faid he in anfwer to this enquiry, " that he would " murder me." What, replied I, could have given birth to a fufpicion of fuch inten- tion in a man whofe zeal and fidelity were fo well known to you, and with whom you fo long had travelled ? If you apprehended he might diflike you from imputing the death of his miftrefs to your negligence, what prevented your fending him forward to M. Grandmaifon, who exafted this of you, and who was fo nigh at hand ?. At leaft what hindered your putting him in prifon ? You lodged with the governor of Omaguas, who would readily have complied, had you made him fuch a requeft. In the meantime Madame Godin, with the canoe and crew from Andoas, had reached Laguna, where they were received with the greateft politenefs by Dr. Romero, the new chief of the miflions, who, by his kind treatment during fix weeks that fhe remained with him, did much towards re-eftabliftiing her health, but too much impaired, and making her forget her misfortunes. The firft care of this refpeilable charadler was to forward an exprefs to the governor of Omaguas, to inform him of the arrival of Ma'' dame Godin, and the languid ftate of her health. Upon this intelligence M. R. could do no lefs, having promifed to render her his fervices, than haften to join her, bringing with him four filver difhes, a filver faucepan, a velvet petticoat, one of Perfiana, and one of taffety, fome linen, and other trifles, belonging to her brothers as well as herfelf; adding, that all the reft were rotten, forgetting that bracelets, fnuff-boxes, and rofaries of gold, and ear-rings fet with emeralds, were not fubjeft to rottennefs, any more than various other efteQs. " Had you," faid Madame Godin ; " had you brought back my negro, I ftould have learnt from him what he had done with my property found in the hut. But of whom, refpedting it, am I now to inquire ? Go your ways. Sir ; it is impoffible that I can ever forget that, to you, I owe all my misfortunes and all my lofles ; manage henceforward as you may, I am determined you ftiall make no part of my company." My wife had but too much reafon on her fide, but the interceflions of M. Romero, to whom fhe could refufe nothing, and who reprefented to her that, if ftie abandoned M. R., his condition would be deplorable, at length overcame her repugnance, and induced her to confent he fhould yet continue with her. When Madame Godin was fomewhat recovered, M. Romero wrote to M. Grand- maifon, informing him that flie was out of danger, and requefting him to difpatch Triftan to accompany her to the Portuguefe veflel. He likewife wrote to the governor, acquainting him that he had reprefented to Madame Godin, whofe courage and piety he could never fufliciently admire, that ftie was yet merely at the beginning of a long and tedious voyage ; and that, though flie had already travelled upwards of four hun- dred leagues, fhe had yet four or five times that diftance to pafs before ftie reached Cayenne j that, but juft relieved from the perils of death, fhe was about to incur frefh I a danger; IN SOUTH AMERICA. 267 danger ; concluding with offering, if fhe chofe to return, to caufe her to be efcorted back in perfe£t fecurity to her refidence of Riobamba ; to thefe he added, that Ma- dame Godin replied, " She was furprifed at his propofals ; that the Almighty had pre- ferved her when alone amid perils in which all her former companions had periflied ; that the firfl of her wiflies was to rejoin her hufband ; that for this purpofe fhe had begun her journey ; and, were fhe to ceafe to profecute her intention, that flie fhould efteem herfelf guilty of counterafting the views of Providence, and render ufelefs the afliflance fhe had received from her two dear Americans and their wives, as well as all the kindnefs for which fhe was indebted to him, and for which God alone could recompenfe them." My wife was ever dear to me, but fentiments like thefe add vene- ration to tendernefs, Triftan failing to arrive when expefted, M. Romero, wearied with waiting for him in vain, equipped a canoe, and gave direftions for the tranfport of Ma- dame Godin, without halting any where, to the Portuguefe veffel. Then it was that the governor of Omaguas, knowing of her coming, and that fhe was to ftop no where by the way, difpatched a canoe to meet her, loaded with refrelhments. The Portuguefe commander, M. de Rebello, hearing of her approach, fitted out a pirogue, commanded by two of his men and ftored with provifions, to meet her, which they did at the village of Pevas. This officer, the better to fulfil the orders of his mafter, with great labour, and by doubhng the number of oars, v^orked his veffel up the river as high as the mifTion of Loreto, where he received her on board. I learn from her, that from that inflant till fhe reached Oyapok, throughout a courfe of nearly a thoufand leagues, fhe wanted for nothing to render her comfortable, not even the niceft delicacies, and fuch as could not be expected in the country ; wine and liquors which file never ufes, fifh, game, &c. were fupplied by two canoes which preceded the galliot. The governor of Para, moreover, had fent orders to '■the chief part of the flages at which they had to halt, with additional refrefhments. I forgot to mennon, that the fufferings of my wife were not at an end, and that one of her thumbs was in a very bad ftate, owing to its being wounded by thorns in the wood, which had not yet been extricated, and which had not only occafioned an abfcefs, but had injured the tendon and even the bone itfelf. It was propofed to take off the thumb, but, by dint of care and fermentations, fhe had only the pain to undergo occafioned by the extraftion of two fplinters at San Pablo, but fhe entirely lofl the ufe of the tendon. The galliot continued its courfe to the fortrefs of Curupa about fixty leagues above Para. M. de Martel, knight of the order of Chrift, and major of the garrifon of Para, arrived there the fucceeding day, by order of the governor, to take command of the galliot, and condufl: Madame Godin to Fort Oyapok. A little beyond the mouth of the river, at a fpot off the coaft where the currents are very violent, he lofl: one of his anchors, and as it would have been imprudent to venture with only one, he fent a boat to Oyapok, to feek affiflance, which was immediately forwarded. Hear- ing by this means of the approach of Madame Godin, I left Oyapok on board a galliot belonging to me, in view of meeting her ; and, on the fourth day of my departure, fell in with her veffel oppofite to Mayacare. On board this veffel, after twenty years' abfence, and a long endurance on either fide of alai-ms and misfortunes, I again met with a cherifhed wife, whom I had almofl given over every hope of feeing again. In her embraces I forgot the lofs of the fruits of our union, nay, I even congratulated myfelf on their premature death, as it faved them from the dreadful fate which befel their uncle in the wood of Canelos beneath their mother's eye, who certainly could never have furvived the fight. We anchored at Oyapok the 22d July 1770. I found in M. Murtel an officer as much diftinguifhed by his acquirements as by his prepoffeffmg >i M 2 exterior. 268 CONDAMINE S TRAVELS exterior. He has acquaintance with mofl: of the languages of Europe, is an excellent latinift, and well calculated to Ihiiie on a more extenfive fcene than Para. He is a defcendant of the illuftrious French family of finiilar name. I had the pleafure of his company for a fortnight at Oyapok, whither M. de Fiedmont, governor of Cayenne, whom the commandant of Oyapok, advifed of his arrival by exprefs, immediately dif- patched in a boat with refrefliments. We caufed the Portuguefe veflel to undergo a repair, which it much wanted, and refitted it with fails to enable it to ftem the currents on its return. The commandant of Oyapok gave M. Martel, moreover, a coaft-pilot, to accompany him to the frontiers. I offered to go fo far as his confort on board my galliot, but he would fuffer me to proceed no farther than Cape D'Orange. I took my leave of him with thofe feelings which the polite attention and noble behaviour of that officer and his generous nation were fo well calculated to infpire in me, as well as my wife, a conduft on the part of either, which I was led to expect from what I had indi- vidually experienced on my former voyage. I fhould previoufly have told you that, when I defcended the Amazons in 1 749, with no other recommendation to the notice of the Portuguefe than arofe from the remem- brance of the intimation afforded by you in 1743, that one of the companions of your travels would follow the fame way, I was received in all the Portuguefe fettlements, by the miffionaries and commandants of the forts, with the utmoft courtefy. On paffmg San Pablo I purchafed a canoe, in which I defcended the river to Fort Curupa, whence I wrote to the governor of Grand Para, M.Francis Mendoza Gorjao, to acquaint him of my arrival, and beg permiffion of failing from Curupa to Cayenne, whither I in- tended to repair direfl:. He favoured me with fo polite an anfwer, that I made no hefitation of quitting my intended cruife and taking a longer, in order to thank him and pay him my refpefts. He received me with open arms, and infilled on my making his houfe and table my own during a week that 1 (topped with him ; nor would he fuffer me to depart before he fet off himfelf for St. Louis do Marinhan, whither he was about to go on his circuit. After his departure, I remounted the river to Curupa with my canoe, efcorted by one of greater dimenfions, fent with me by the commandant of that fort on my voyage to Para, a city which, as you have juftly remarked, Itands on a large river, confidered, but improperly, the right arm of the Amazons, as the river of Para merely communicates with the Amazons by a channel hollowed by the tides, and called Tagipuru. At Curupa 1 found waiting for me, by order of the governor of Para, a large pirogue of fourteen oars, commanded by a ferjeant of the garrifon, and deftined to carry me to Cayenne, whither I repaij"ed by Macapa, coafting along the left of the Amazons to its mouth, without, like you, making the tour of the great ifland of Joanes, or Marajo. After fimilar courtefies, unprovoked by exprefs recommendations, what had I not to expe£t, feeing His mod Faithful Majcfty had condcfcended to iffue precife orders to expedite a veffel to the very frontiers of his dominions, for the purpofe of receiving my family on board, and tranfporting it to Cayenne ? To relume my narrative. — After taking leave of M. de Martel off Cape D'Orange with thofe reciprocal falutes common with iailors, I returned to Oyapok, and thence to Cayenne. Here I was engaged in a law-fuit. Triftan demanded of me the wages I had promifed him of fixty livres per month. I offered to pay him for eighteen months, the utmoft time the voyage could have required, had he ftridly followed his inftru6t;ions. The fen- tence pronounced by the fupcrior council of Cayenne condemned him to render me an account of from feven to eight thoufand franks, the value of effects I had committed to his care, deducing one thoufand and eighty for the eighteen months' falary I had offered IN SOUTH AMERICA. 269 offered him ; but the wretch, after dealing treacheroufly with me as he had done ; after caufing the death of eight perfons, including the American who was drowned, and all the misfortunes which befel my wife ; in fhort, after diflipating the whole of the effefts I had entrufted with him, proved infolvent ; and, for my part, I judged it unneceffary to augment the loifes I had already fuftained by having to fupport him in prifon. I conceive. Sir, that I have now complied to the full with your requeft. The nar- rative I have given, by recalling the mournful fcenes I have depicted, has cofl me in- finite anguifh. The law-fuit with Triftan, and the illnefs of my wife on reaching Cay- enne, a confequence but too natural of the fufferings fhe had undergone, did not admit of my venturing to expofe her earlier than the prefent year (1773), to fo long a voyage by fea. At prefent flie is, with her father, in the midft of my family, by whom they have been tenderly received. M. de Grandmaifon had originally no intention of pro- ceeding to France, but merely meant, by his voyage, to fee his daughter fafe on board the Portuguefe veifel ; but finding old age creep on apace, and penetrated with the mofl lively grief at the intelligence of the fad death of his children, he abandoned all, and embarked with her, trufting the care of his property to his other fon-in-law, M. Savula, who refides at Riobamba. For my wife, however felicitous all about her to enliven her fpirits, fhe is conftantly fubjeft to melancholy, her horrible misfortunes being ever prefent to her imagination. How much did it coft me to obtain from her the relations requifite for the judges in the courfe of my lawfuit ! I can even readily conceive that, from delicacy, Ihe has abftained from entering into many details, the remembrance of A'hich fhe is anxious to lofe, and which, known, could but add to the pain I feel. Nay file was even anxious that I fhould not profecute Triftan, compaflionating even that wretch ; thus following the gentle impulfe of a heart infpired with the purell benevo- lence, and the genuine principles of religion ! ( 270 ) AN ABRIDGED RELATION VOYAGE TO PERU, Undertaken by Gentlemen of the Royal Academy of Sciences, to meafure the Degrees of the Meridian near the Equator, whereby to infer the Figure of the Eartli. — By M. Bougwkr. TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH. THE Academy has been fo diligent in publifhing every thing it has done to determine the magnitude and figure of the earth, that I am warranted to fuppofe the aflem- bly perfectly inftructed vnxh the flate of the.queftion *. The experiments already made to afcertain the weight of bodies which are found to diminilli therein in proportion as they draw towards the equator ; the various operations undertaken in France to meafure the extent of the degrees of both latitude and longitude ; ever)- thing, indeed, conciu-s to fatisfy us, that the earth is not completely fpherical ; but thefe very experiments and operations are kno\^Ti to lead to oppofite conclufions as to its real deviation from this form. Geometr)' and phvfics feemed here fo much in contradiction u-ith each other, that none were fufHciently aware of the means of reconciling them ; it was a contro- verfv to which the learned themfelves gave rife, and not one of thefe difputes deemed purely fpeculative, and of no importance in practice : even the academy itfelf were xmdecided ; nor were its doubts entirely laid at reft imtil fome voyages had been accom- plifhed to the pole and the equator. The errors to which all our operations are liable, are not to be correfted by comparing, only, degrees of latitude within a fmall extent ; their inequalin- is not manifeft enough to be depended on : it is a very dilferent thing to compare the degrees meafured in regions very remote, as is the pole and the equator, from each other. The difference produced from the fum of the whole of the fmall differences of thefe meafured degrees, muft have, neceffarily, by reafon of its magni- tude, difengaged us from thofe errors not to be avoided by calculating the difference of one degree from another feparately ; and the confequences drawn from the mode of the firft calculation, had acquired a certainty the latter could not give. If towards the perfeAing na\ngation it had been conceived neceffary to afcertain the magnitode of the degrees of it, it was not of lefs confequence to be acquainted with its exact figure. They were not able to diftinguifh whether the accidents, which happen even now, too frequently at fea, ought or not to be imputed to the negligence of pilots, not fcrupuloufly enough attentive to the precepts of their art, or whether the evil were not to be traced to a higher fource, — to the imperfe^lnefs of the art idelf, bv the maxims of it being chiefly founded upon the fpherical figure of the earth ; of which it ought neceffarily to be affured, as well as of the circumftance, if fuggefted to it, of the im- perceptible irregularity of the figure. Setting afide every other advantage which may • One part of this difcourfe was publicly read in the Affembly of the Royal Academy of Sciences, J 4th NoTcmber 1744. have BOUGUER's voyage to PERU. 27 1 have prefented itfelf in our way, we could not f;iil to propofe to ourfelves a variety of verifications on different fubjects ; to labour at a defcription, and to correfl; the maps of the countries through which we had to paTs ; to make cbfervations on the loadftone, examine the weight of the air, its degrees of condenfation, elafticity, refradion, and many other things, as occafion fhould offer. Nor even, perhaps, would all thefe ne- ceffaries, duly confidered, and taken in the aggregate, be elfimated of lefs importance, than what we regarded as the principal objeft of our million. The projed of the voyage of the academicians to the polar circle was fubfequent to ours ; it has been a much Ihorter one, and the public has already happily reaped the fruits of it ; at leafl to the extent pofTible from the nature of the thing, imtil they fliall form to themfelves a common refult, the laft objecl of every voyage undertaken. With regard to ourfelves, whofe deftination was to the fouth, and to encounter difficulties not to be imagined, we had to make our way to the equator ; and it was clear enough we had no bufmefs be- yond it, fmce the degree of the meridian could undergo but little change on the other fide ; and if we had proceeded far enough, we fhould have fo^nd them equal to thofe of France. It cannot be doubted that there is fome fort of conformity between the two hemifpheres of the north and fouth : if the degrees enlarge on one fide, they mufl:, of confequence, do the fame on the other, even when not exadtly fubjefl: to the fame law. It behoved us, then, to be ftationed at the equator, to determine, as this was neceffary, the inequality, whether in excefs, or lack, when at the greatefl. M. Le Comte de Maurepas, whofe love for the fciences urged him to every thing that might contribute to their advancement, loft fight of none of the advantages to be derived from our voy- age, that could reconcile himfelf to the undertaking ; he fmoothed all our difficulties ; indeed, we have felt at the extremities of the globe, that we had been travelling under his aufpices. We were three, M. Godin, M. de la Condamine, and myfelf, all acade- micians, not reckoning M. de Julfieu, regent doftor of the faculty of medicine at Paris, brother of the two academicians of the fame name, who joined us after our departure. This gentleman's employment was to attend, as he did with exemplary care, to the na- tural hiftory of the countries through which we travelled ; and in this he was to be aflifted by M. Senergues, furgeon, who, it was conceived, might alfo fometimes render much affiftance to us. We had need of the aid of many perfons, to draw, to examine the calculations, or to explore the country with us : for which purpofes, they appointed M. Verguin, engineer ot the marines, and Meffrs. Couplet, Defodonnais, de Morainville, and Hugot, the laft a clock-maker, who was to have the charge and care of our in- ftruments. M. Godin had more pretenfions than one to be placed at the head of our company ; befide being my elder in years, he alfo had the merit of propofing the voyage. For my own part, I had no intention of having any thing to do with the enterprize, when every thing being prepared and the period for its departure approaching, feveral of the ma- thematicians or aftronomers on whom much reliance were placed, found themfelves in a fituation, from perhaps their private afiairs attaching them to Paris, or other caufes, to be unable to give efficacy to their zeal, which determined me to conquer the repug- nance which the weak ftate of my health had always given me to fea-voyages. In the meantime, though our abfence, from many particular incidents to which I was not the leaft acceffory, became very long and tedious, I fhall not, I am fure, repent of having rafhly come to the refolution I did, if I have the gratification of knowing that my indi- vidual efforts have been of public utility. It muft be remembered, we were not limited to raeafure the extent of a fingle degree of the meridian ; the arch we afcertained contained more than three ; fo that our labour *7« BOUGUER's voyage to PERU. labour in this fingle place has been three times longer, and more painful, than that experienced in Lapland, which has received fuch well-earned applaufe. On the other hand, if we have had to overcome many difficulties, it is certain many of them were infeparable from fuch undertakings ; when it was necelTary to crofs the ocean to a country fo diftant, as to render all communication with Europe exceedingly difficult, and when the fuccefs of the miffion depended on fuch a number of circumftances, and the concurrence of fo many perfons ; the moral difficulties are then multiplied, and unite themfelves with local and phyfical ones. The firft have been greater than can be defcribed, and the extent of the latter may be conceived when you are informed, that the vafl height of the mountains, which in Europe has commonly contributed to acce- lerate thefe operations, were to us the greatefl hindrance ; either from the circumftance of being ftationed fo high as to be enveloped in clouds, or having our fignals carried away by the tempefts, and being frequently reduced to the neceflity of having regard to nothing but our own fafety. We have fometimes been obliged to purchafe, for a month and a half's patience, a fingle quarter of an hour of fine weather ; and in one of thefe ftations we have beeA longer detained, than we Ihould have been toiling through a whole meridian in Europe. We were working, too, in a country, to which even its inhabitants themfelves were ftrangers ; and obliged continually to penetrate into defarts, where no paths but thofe made by v^■ild beafts were to be difcovered. We could not, without a paflport, enter the territories under the domination of Spain, which are ordinarily interdided to every defcription of ftrangers to all places beyond the feas. We were even in want of a fpecial permiffion. His Catholic Ivlajefty did not fimply permit our operations to be made in whatever place we might choofe in Peru, but declared himfelf the proteftor of them, by making known his pleafure in this regard to his viceroys and to his audience at Quito ; and, at the fame time, nominated two marine officers lieutenants of fhips, Don George Juan, commandant, D'Aliaga, of the order of St. John of Jerufalem, and Don Antonio de Ulloa, to affift in our work. We found them at Carthagena, in America, where they were arrived ibme months be- fore us, direclly from Cadiz. It was a flattering circumftance for the two united nations, to be able to turn tlieir thoughts towards the attempt of examining the figure of the earth, while the fortunate fuccefs of their arms aftonilhed Europe, and turned its attention to very different objeds. In the meantime, if we had the good fortune to fucceed, the advantages to be derived from our voyage would be common to evei-y ".^aon, all would equally be benefited thereby. It is fit Kings Ihould not limit the benefits arifing from their glorious undertakings to one reign or one age ; by generoufly extending them to the whole human race, they fhow thenifelves kings or as fathers of every people : this trait of goodnefs and wifdom is confpicuous in every thing com- manded by the chcrilhed fovereign to whom we are fubjecls. I fliall divide this difcourfe under different heads, in order the better to defcribe a country we have had too many occafions to become well acquainted with. Our French travellers have penetrated but a little way into it, and the idea they have formed to themfelves of the country, have ordinarily been founded upon the relation of pc-rfo'is who have never been induced to a ftri»3: examination of what they beheld. "'f.. '.s it occurred to me, afomewhat circumftantial detail would afford pleafure, until i can give a complete relation of the whole journey. Befide this detail may throw iome light upon the operations of the raeafuring of the globe, of which I have given _■; an a. 'Ofit. PART BOUGUER S VOYAGE TO PERU. 273 PART I. DESCRIPTION OF THE PART OF PERU COMPREHENDED BETWEEN THE SEA AND THB GREAT CHAIN OF MOUNTAINS KNOWN UNDER THE NAME OF CORDKLIER. Wf^ embarked in a King's fhip in the road of Rochelle the 16th of May 1735, and made our way very fuccefsfiilly to Saint Domingo, after having firft put into Martinique, where we remained a few days. We made a variety of obfervations in both thefe iflands, fome of which are noticed in the memoirs of the Academy. We meafured the height of the different mountains we had occafion to afcend, to fatisfy our minds in certain refearches we propofed to ourfelves ; we tried our ability, without being fenfible of it, to fcale other mountains incomparably higher ; thofe which form the famous chain known unJfer the name of Cordelier, and of ^hich but little is known than the name in Europe. We made a confiderable ftay at Saint Domingo, and left it the 30th of October for Carthagena ; from whence we made our way to Porto Bello, and havi^ croffed the ifthmus, we embarked at Panama on the South Sea, and on the 9th of I!^|rch 1736, we faluted, for the firll; time, the coafl of Peru, and anchored in the road of Manta, where we propofed to ourfelves to harbour. It is already known M. Condamine and myfelf feparated here from the reft of our companions, by reafon that we believed we might make fome ufe of our time in this part of the coaft, on which the heavy rains had already ceafed to fall, and we were aflured it would be fome time yet ere they abated to the fouthward, and that the way to Quito would be impaf- fable until the month of June. We faw M. Godin, with the reft of the company, fet fail for Guayaquil, and had no caufe to regret the refolution we had taken to remain behind ; our ftay purchafed us a perfedl acquaintance with this coaft, which being the part juttiil^ moft to the weft of South America, required to be afcertained with particular exaftnefs. We examined the length of the pendulum under the equator, and I was myfelf much privately taken up with aftronomical refraQions. The day after M. Godin's departure, we went to the village of Monte Chrifti, fitu- ated at the foot of the mountain of that name, famed in thefe feas, and known to all navigators coming from a diftant country ; it is the refidence of the antient inhabitants of Manta, who, to ftielter themfelves from the infults of pirates, have removed from the coaft where they formerly refided. We were lodged in the King's houfe *, which fliould be confidered as a Town-houfe f, though, like the reft of the cabins, only conftructed of bamboos ; it was raifed upon piles about feven or eight feet in height ; we afcended it by a ftair formed of two bamboos of large fize, in which they had con- trived notches to receive one's feet. On Thurfday the 15th, in the morning, the Indians came to vifit us, preceded by their Alcades or magiftrates, carrying in their hands their wands, as diftinftive marks of their authority ; they prefented to us fome fruits, and announced to us that they had orders, by letters from Don Jofeph de Olabes y Gamoroa, commandant of Puerto Viejo, to fhew us the fame attention as to himfelf. We chofe a more commodious ftation as an obfervatory, at about a third of a league from the village ; we there eftabliflied ourfelves under a roof, raifed by our good * La Cafa Real. f Hotel de Ville. VOL. XIV. N N friends 274 BOUGUER's voyage to PERU. friends the Indians with much facility, confidering the extreme fimplicity of the archi- tecture common to this country. M. Condamiae and myfelf made an unfuccefsful attempt to put in practice the method I fuggefted in the memoirs of the Academy for 1735, to afcertain the precife moment of the equinox. The fun was vifible in the evening, but not in the morning ; this circumflance, joined to other accidents, deprived us of the correfpondcnt obfervations we were in want of. We weie prevented by a cloudy Iky from obferving fome eclipfes of the fatellites of Jupiter ; but it permitted us to notice the end of the eclipfe of the moon, of the 26th of March 1736, in the even- ing ; which, from the circumflance of its tixing the fituation of all this coaft, the mod wefterly of South America, is become an extremely important obfervation *. We learn from it that Monte Chrifti, whofe latitude is i" 3' S. is fourteen leagues to the weft of the meridian of Panama or Porto Bello, and the cape St. Lorenzo, which is near four leagues more to the weft, is about fifty-four minutes of a degree to the weft of the fame meridian. I was, with refpeft to myfelf, more fortunate in the obfervations I made at the mouth of the river De Jama, north of the Cape Pafl'ado, at 0° 9' fouth of the equator. We did not go to this place until we had iirft made our vifit to Don Jofeph de Olabes at Puerto Viejo, by whom we were very well received, Puerto Viejo is one of the oldeft Spa- nilh fettlements in Peru. It yet has the title of city, which it merits as little as that of port, being a very inland town, and the river that palfes it very inconfiderable. We found notwithftanding a great number of Spaniards here, but for the moft part very poor ; they have wax and cotton, and cultivate both the cocoa and tobacco, for exportation, but the badnefs of their roads and a defeftive navigation deprefles their commerce ; it is even a fort of hazard that throws an opportunity in their way for the fale of their commodities. We noticed in this, as in feveral other places we pafled, fome very pretty houfes, under roofs thatched with ftraw or the leaves of the palm-tree, containing a great num- ber of chambers, and which to their other embellilhments, if we may ufe the term, were added galleries and balconies. The bamboo ferves for beams, as well as joifts and boards. Thefe bamboos of which they make fuch a variety of ufes, are as thick as a man's leg ; when they form boards of them, they fplit them down the whole length on one fide, then open them by breaking the diaphragm within, and fpread them fiat ; thus prepared, thefe boards are as long as oui's, and fometimes fifteen inches in breadth ; and of thefe they make their floors, their partitions, and window-frames ; all the parts of the building are united by the roots of trees, or cords made of the bark or rind, fo that not a particle of iron enters into the compofition or conftrudion of the edifice ; and nothing can be more accommodating to the natural indifpofition of the people of this country to labour ; who, were they inclined to give thenifelves a little • The moon, ahliough entirely fhadowed, was always vifible,. het emerfion only was obfervable- H. M. s. 7 26 40 — Fini moment of emerfion^, 7 34 31 — Ariftarcus appeared. 7 47 00— Plato, ditto. 7 52 17 — Tycho began to emerge. 7 53 ^3 — Tycho totally emerged. 7 57 47 — Manilius emerged. 8 06 24 — Mare Serenitatis, out of (hadow entirely. 8 13 25— Mare Oris, out of ftiadow entirely. 8 19 17 — Petavius emerged. 8 20 iS — Langrenus, ditto. 8 23 27— Eclipfe ends. more BOUGUEr's voyage to PERlf. 275 more trouble, might find more folid and durable materials in their forefls. It is true, it would cofl them more to erecl their habitations in a better and more careful manner ; bcfides, generally they are in want of nothing elfe than a ftielter from the extreme heat of the fun, or the frequent heavy rains. Walk or move as gently as you can in thefe houfes, the whole edifice fliakes. Accidents by fire, too, are much to be apprehended, but as their furniture partakes of the fimplicity of the building, the damage can never be very confiderablc. From Puerto Viejo we went to Charapoto, another Spanifh fettlement, where there are yet fome Spaniards to be met with. From this place we proceeded to Canow, and afterwards to the north of the Cape Paffado, On our way to Canow we paffed by the bay of Caracas, a port, thejuttings of wliich are formed by nature. I'his bay, fup- pol'ed to have fome refemblajice to that of the fame name in the North Sea, has a very narrow entrance, but is neverthelefs very fpacious ; and there is much wood in the neighbourhood of it, proper for the conftruclion of fhips ; and the Spaniards, who founded a city near the entrance of it, the ruins of which are yet evident, continue here from time to time, eftablhhing timber-yards. In all the places not abfolutely defert, we found and had a refource in bananas, and fome other fruits, milk, eggs, and poultry. In other places we fubfilled upon rice, and what provifions we carried with us ; the bananas, and maize-cakes, which had no other fault than being exceedingly dry, ferved us inftead of bread. The Indians provided us with horfes, of which we had much need ; and they taught us to profit of the flux and reflux of the tide, by direding our way upon the flat fliores, where no roads were found made over the heights of the coaft. Horfes multiply very much in this country, and there has been a great number of them fince the Spaniards have tranfported them from Europe ; their goodnefs does not arife from the care taken of them, as is the cafe in our iflands ; they fuff^er them always to run out even during the night, and never fhoe them ; they are fometimes fo lean and fl;arved as to excite the companion of a cavalier, but notwithftanding this, they are excellent and truly fer- viceable. "We availed ourfelves of another fort of conveyance, when we had occafion to keep to the coaft. We found fome pirogues, a fpecies of canoe or boat, formed of a fingle trunk of a tree, in which they will venture very far from fhore, and even dare to double the cape, when the fea is not greatly agitated. All our propofitions in our different coaftings were defigned to make us as much acquainted as pofllble with the country : but while we had in view the perfecting of geography, we did not neglect other obfervations that prefented themfelves ; to nml- tiply which it was that, being in the fouthern hemifphere, we conceived the defign of coafting now and then our way northward. I fought principally for a commodious fituation to obferve the aftronomical refractions near the horizon, and I at length found 'one at the mouth of the river Jama, where I fixed myfelf for near fifteen days. The obfervations I made there, joined to thofe already accompliflied at St. Domingo, fur- niflied me with a term of comparifon which turned out exceedingly ufeful to me when I got to Quito ; I noticed there the refraftions to be lefs, and that, contrary to all re- ceived opinion till that time, they diminiflied in proportion as we were above the level of the fea. While I was thus occupied below, I beheld, the 13th of April 1736, a very uncom- mon fight, and of which there have been but few examples : I faw two funs very difliinft, fucceffively fet ; they were in contact, and one exactly over the other. I do not think I ought to attribute this phenomenon to the reflection of the furface of the fea, which had fent back the fecond image : for in this cafe the two images would have N N 2 had 276 BOUGUER's voyage to PERU. had a contrary motion, inflead of defcending with an equal one. The lower fun, whofe light was not quite fo brilliant, but whofe edge was not lefs determined than the upper one, was when I obferved it already divided by the horizon, and did not even form a complete half-circle. It fet, and was immediately followed by the other, which did not appear to me fubjeft to any other refradion than what I had already obferved, and for fome days following continued to cbferve. Mod part of the places we have mentioned are famous in the antient hiftory of Peru. Manta, at the time of the Incas, was the metropolis of all this country, then funk in the groffeft idolatry : the divinity they adored was competent to do them neither good nor harm ; it was an emerald of the fize of an oflrich egg, to which they had confecrated a temple, and attached a college of prielfs to have charge of its worfhip. Every eme- rald of an ordinary bignefs partook, of a fmall portion of its divinity, were reputed her daughters, and were often biought from a great diflance to be depofited in the fame place, that they might have the fame homage rendered to them as the god- defs their mother : this laft was loft on the arrival of the Spaniards ; probably the Indians carried it away and concealed it. It is in vain they have fought for the mines from whence thefe ftones are taken ; nor have they been more fuccefsful in the perquifitious made in another neighbouring country, further north upon the fame coaft, the name of which augurs a better profpeft. They pretend to be acquainted in this province, which is that of the Emerald, with the Little Mt)untain, in which are the richefl of thefe mines ; it is not fai ther than five leagues from the fea, and is upon the fouth bank of the river of the fame name as the province. But, be- fides the impenetrable nature of the country, almoft throughout caufed by the thick woods, the Indians are wife enough not to be very aiding in thefe fort of refearches : they are fenfible, no doubt, fliould they fucceed, they would be opening a career of labour painful to excefs, which themfelves alone would bear the weight, and with but little portion of the profits. It is very probable this coafl, notwithftanding the relation of the firfl travellers who have gone over it to the contrary, have never been much peopled. The villages are at ten or twelve leagues diftance from each other, and in many places twice that ; and there are none of them fituated at a fhort diftance from the fea. We may hazard an opinion that this has always been the fame : immenfe forefts are not fituations calculated for the fubfiftence of a numerous population. It is a contradic- tion, of which fome writers, otherwife very able, have not been fenfible ; who have believed that the Gauls in the time of the Romans were more numerous than the French are now, although all the country, almoft, was then covered with wood. We are aware, befides, that we cannot, in the remote countries of which we are now fpeaking, confider forefts as a new production : commerce alone, by the abun- dance it draws fometimes from without, may furnifti the means of fubfiftence to a large population : but we are not left ignorant that there has ever been but little communication between the coaft and the reft of the continent ; befides, as we fliall not hefitate long to prove, the infpedion of thefe places confirms this to be very probable. We muft not feek in thefe forefts for our onks or elms, and other trees com- monly found in our woods. There are, however, to be noticed fome which the Spaniards, from fome vague relation, have taken for the French, or holm-oak. We fee there alfo oranges, citrons, and olives : thefe trees have been carried there by the Spaniards, for which reafon they cannot, any more than figs and pomegranates, be ex- peQed to be feen in America, but in cultivated fpots. We may even obferve of the tj olive. BOUGUER S VOYAGE TO PERU. 277 olive, that this climate is rather too warm for it, and that it would turn to better account beyond the other tropic, in the diftri(^^s of Chili, the mofl: neighbouring upon the torrid zone. We noticed a great number of llirubs and plants we have not in Europe, and others which grow better in the former than in the hitter coun- tiy, as is evidenced by their growth. Acacias, brooms, ferns of numerous fpecies ; the prickly Cuiges, the Opuntia, the different fpecies of aloes, not to mention the Mangliers, which even grow in the fea, and multiply to a prodigious degiee by means of their branches, which io intertwine as in their turn to become trunks and roots. In all thefe forefts nothing is to be found but heavy vi^ood, excepting only a few plants, converted by the goodnefs of the foil into trees. Mofl of the fpecies, for inilance, of the Ferule grows to a great height in Europe, principally in Pouille : but it attains to a larger fize in the hot regions of Peru, and it yields a white wood, which, though in weight four or five times lighter than the lightefl fir, is capable notvvithflanding of as great power. Nothing can be found more proper to make rafts, of which the ufe is fometimes fo .neceffary, travelling over thefe deferts*. It is only neceffary to penetrate into the thickeft places of the forefts to find cedars, of which there are two or three fpecies ; cotton trees ; and the various forts of ebony, or hard wood ; Guyaco, and many other kinds of wood, efleemed for their fragrance or colour, and for the fine polifh they will receive. The trees known under the name of Maria are diftinguifhable by the whitenefs of their bark, and their great height and ftraightnefs ; thefe are the only trees in Peru they can convert into marts for fhips ; they are very flexible, nor are they fo exceffively heavy as almoft all the others are. I mull not omit noticing the palm-trees, of which I have myfelf reckoned more than ten or twelve fpecies, yet there are many more. Confidered in every manner, this is a very fmgular tree : its branches, or rather leaves, being at the very top of its trunk, gives it, notwithflanding its height, the form rather of a plant than a tree. It is obferved in the hot countries of the torrid zone, trees fpread their roots near the furface of the foil : but the roots of many of the palms are altogether out of the ground, and the bafe of the trunk is obferved to lift itfelf up as the tree advances in age ; it will fometimes rife to fix or feven feet, and the roots which divide form beneath a kind of trench or pyramid, in the hollow of which it is pofTible to fhelter onefelf. Near the fea thefe forefts fcarcely ever exceed the growth of a coppice ; in pro- portion as you advance into land, the trees vifibly increafe in fize, and gradually in height, and at feven or eight leagues from the coaft, and not at a fhorter diftance, they attain to their utmoil elevation. This maximum bears itfelf up ; it compriles a very confiderable tradt, but at the fame time of unequal breadth, varying according to fitua- tions ; for if we continue to advance, we find the trees lofe much in their height, either becaufe the quality of the land is no more the fame, or becaufe of the elevation of the foil as it approaches the Cordelier, and its not having the fame depth of good earth ; the fpaces between the trees are filled with a prodigious quantity of plants and pa- rafite fhrubs ; fome of thefe entwine the trunks and branches ; others fall vertically in a flraight line, refembling cords attached to their heights ; the remaining voids are taken up by bamboos of all growths, fome of them twenty or thirty feet high, and the mofl part of the larger ones thorny. When I fay that all the trees are encumbered with plants and fhrubs, I mean to fay, generally ; we mult, I believe, except the Acomas, which are confiderably larger here than in our iflands, and which, like even fome other trees, have appeared to me exempt from mofs. They owe, apparently, this dif- * The Spaniards name this wood, Wood of Balfa. tyS bouguer's voyage to peru. tinclion to the lafleous moiflure of their bark, which is prejudicial to many parafite plants. We acknowledge, on entering thefe woods, the truth of the obfervation already made by other travellers, that if the birds of America exceed ours in beauty of plum- age, ours have the advantage, infinitely, in variety and fweetnefs of note. Inftead of fong, nothing is heard almoft throughout the foreft, but a difcordant flunning noife. The clamour of the paroquets, which are feen here in great tribes, is particularly dif- turbing. Thefe birds do not frequent the fea-fide ; to find them, we mull penetrate for fonie leagues into the country : I have frequently eat of the fmall green ones, and found them very good, though their flefli may be confidered rather hard. The apes, alfo, choofe to take themfelves far from the coaft, and generally follow the courfe of the rivers and brooks. Here, alfo, you fee the Toucan, called by the natives the Preacher, although he never opens his mouth. He bears no refemblance to any other bird, from the mondrous fize of his beak, which is almoft as large as his whole body. Pigeons are very common, and very good, fo are alfo ducks, principally thofe which the Spa- niards name Palos Reales, and which are decorated with a creft. The Galinaflb is found in many places here; it is a fingular fpecies of the.Coori, to the flefh of which they attribute difl'ercnt properties ; but it is rarely made ufe of, by reafon of its ftink- ing fmell. It differs from ours by its fize, in which it is larger, and the head of it, inftead of being covered with feathers, has fimply a black Ikin upon it, of an helmet form. The number of mifchievous terrcftrial animals is very great here, particularly remote from the fea and the thick receffcs of the forefts, and where the trees are at their loftieft growth. The lion we fee there, is not one ; he has much more relation with the wolf; and does not attack man. But the tigers are as large there, and favage, as thofe of Africa : of which, there has been at different times moft terrible proofs. When, in 1740, I returned from Quito towards the fea, taking a northerly diredtion to meafure the abfolute height of the mountains which had ferved for our meridian, I pafled by Nigonas, which is, as it were, the centre of the Province of Emeralds, and faw there many perfons who had been lamed by thefe terrible animals : ten or twelve Indians had been torn to pieces by them two or three years before. I proceeded farther, and fixed myfelf in a little ifland formed by the meeting of the two rivers of the Emeralds and Inca. In this ifland we imagined ourfclves perfeftly fecure from any attack ; but, lo ! the firft night the tigers fwaui over to difpute our provifions with us, and carried oft' a part of them ; and we were under the neceffity every night (jf making a large fire as a protection. It is a blefting thefe animals, like all thofe offenfive by the ferocity of their nature, are not teeming. Tigers are but few in Peru ; but it requires but one or two of them to defolate a whole country. The Indians, who never crofs the deferts without being armed with a lance and hanger, afl'emble themfelves at certain times to hunt thefe animals, and never fail, when accidents have happened to imprefs them with the neceility of doing fo. Much alfo is to be apprehended from ferpents, which are here very common, and of many dangerous fpecies ; among them the rattlc-fnake, which will not, like the moft part of others, turn afide from man. Lizards are found here as large as your arm, but harmlefs. We will now notice thofe divers fpecies of animals, of which fome are confidered am- phibious. The Iguana has a thorny creft on his hcail and along his back : his form, he is fo meagre and ftn-ivelled, is truly hideous. I fufpeft he has the means, when he fwims, of blowing himfeif up into a large volume, which gives him lightnefs, and in- duces a belief that he walks upon the water as upon land. They eat of this animal, t4 and BOUGUER S VOYAGE TO TERU. iyg 4 and find his flefli excellent ; as alfo of a fpecies of wild boar, which has a head not fa long as ours, and foniething like a navel upon his back. I believe this laft is peculiar to the woods of America ; but the Taton or Armadillo is common to both continents : it is remarkable for the diftincl fcales or armour with which its body, head, tail, and legs, are feparately covered. The moll part of the infects to be found with us are alfo there, but ordinarily of larger fize, and fometimes fo big, that Europeans confider them monftrous. Earth worms, for inftance, though entirely refembling what are common to us, are as long as one's arm, and an inch in circumference. Some of their fpiders are covered with hair, and as large as a pigeon's egg. We fee there different fpecies of the piimire often confiderably larger than ours, and fome of them venomous. Scorpions are alfo very common, but their fling is not of much confequence ; the diftrefs of it generally ends with a flight fever : it has, however, happened to an acquaintance of mine, befide feel- ing this inconvenience, to have been afflicted with a fuelling of the tongue, fo as to render fpeaking painful. I have frequently feen a little dog ftung, and it only occa- fioned him at lirfh to ftart. The ftings were made chiefly in the tender part of the belly not covered whh hair : the little dog did not appear at all indifpofed. But there is nothing in thefe foreflis that difl;relfes you fo much as the mofquitos and maringouiiis ; by reafon they caufe an uneafmefs, or rather a plague, which is never ceafmg, and it is very difficult to guard onefelf againfl: it. The firfl: are a fpecies of flies fcarcely per- ceptible, and aft'edi you like red-hot iron ; the fecond are of two different fpecies, the fmalleft differing little from our gnats. We are acquainted in Europe with the nature of the fting of the latter, but the poifon of the maringouins is, neverthelefs, more aftive : it caufes great biifters, chiefly upon thofe lately from Europe, whofe blood is apparently more fluid. It cannot be defcribed with what obftinacy they feem to attack thefe ftrangers. The air is frequently darkened by their multitude, and we are obliged to be in inceflant motion to defend ourfelves from them ; they conquer by making their way through every little hole they find in our clothes, and it is impoflible to reft at night for them, unlefs under a tent made purpofely to guard us againft them. This tent has curtains of calico, and is formed like a tomb ; they faften it, when they fleep in the woods, by its two ex- tremities or four angles to fome trees ; and it is a piece of furniture fo abfolutely necef- fary, that the pooreft Indian is always provided with, and never journeys without i'X As the maringouins ftrive to avoid both wind and fun, the open places they will never voluntarily infell ; and many places are found entirely free of them. The inconveni- ence is not fo great in hanflets and all cleared fpots. It will not be confidered extraordinary that the country I have defcribed fhould be very hot, fince it is upon a level with the fea, and placed in the midft of the torrid zone. At the fame, the thermometer of M. de Reaumur did not rife in the afternoon but to 26*^, 27**, or 28° ; in the morning, a little before fun-rife, it was commonly at 19", 20°, or 21°. It is not to be doubted but it is the continuity of the heat which makes it feem fo great in the torrid zone, for we have very frequently known the ther- mometer in France to rife confiderably higher. The ftrength is exhaufted by tranfpira- tion and violent fweats. The heat abates but very little during the night, and we even rife fatigued in the morning. To the degree the faculties of the foul find themfelves Incumbered, the laflitude of the body communicates itfelf to the mind ; and we then find ourfelves in a ftate of indolence, which not only prevents us from acting, but unfits us for any thing that requires application and attention. It is very poflible all travellers, in palfmg through the torrid zone, are not equally fenfible to this effefl: of the great heat.- There is reafon to believe alfo, that, in the end, we recover in a great meafure 28o BOUGUEr's voyage to PERU. meafure cur ufual (late ; provided the re-eftablifliment is fufficiently fpeedy, and no other caufes throw any hindrance in the way. But what will, no doubt, create furprife, is, that in fhefe countries, where the heat is always fo great, the humidity is always exceflive ; and fo it is in all the places fitu- ated between the two tropics, wh'^re there is much wood. Even upon the higheft emi- nences, from whence it is natural to imagine the waters fhould run oft", you fmk mid- leg into the mud. I have already intimated, that the houfes were raifed upon piles ; but this does not prevent the milchief occafioned t>y the inceflant dampnefs excited by the heat. At certain feafons, every poffible care is required to preferve paper, and to prevent our faddle and portmanteau from rotting. To attempt to fire a gun after being loaded for three or four hours, is an ufelefs effort ; and there is no means of preferving powder, but drying it, from time to time, at fome diftance from a fire. This country, the length of which I (hall give by and by, is from forty to forty-five leagues in breadth from eaft to weft, being comprehended between the coaft and the Cordelier, whofe direction is nearly north and fouth. Somedmes the coaft abruptly changes its direction ; and the chain of mountains, as if affeded thereby, feems, al- though at fo great a diftance, to confine itfelf to the alteration ; but it commonly takes its courfe in a dirett fine ; infomuch, that it is found at the leaft diftance from the fea, when any gulph, like that of Guayaquil, for inftance, penetrates far into land. Going beyond this gulph, fouthward towards Lima, the face of the country is altered ; the foil is covered with fand feeminglv depofited by the lea ; or it poflibly may be attributed to a contrary origin, this fand may have fallen from the Cordelier : the country is open j and there is no wood, as on this fide the gulph. But what more pardcularly diftinguiflies this part of Peru, lying beyond the Guaya- quil, is, that, notwithftanding the fky is often cloudy, there never falls any rain : a fmgularity this which gives rife to a problem in phyfics the more difficult to be refolved, as it depends upon the moft perfect acquaintance with the nature of clouds. It is not furprifing that Auguftin de Zarate, who was, I believe, the firft who ftarted this diffi- culty, has not better explained it ; yet I am not acquainted with any perfon, though the fubje£t has occupied the attention of many naturalifts, who has done better. We have now to fpeak of a phenomenon, the regular and certain effedls of which is not confined to a fmall extent of territory. The country fubjeft to the rains reach as far as Panama, and is in length more than three hundred leagues ; and they are at the fame time fo heavy and inceiTant, particularly in Choco, the moft central province of this tract, that the people the moft avaricious of gain have the greateft repugnance to refide there, although this is, of every other country in the world, that in which nature has dif- played the utmoft profufion, by making the bowels of the earth a depofitory of gold duft. A fortune cannot fail to be made there in a little time ; but there is nothing more certain than falling victims to the pernicious qualities of the climate, the humidity of which inceffantly applied, checks tranfpiration, and fufpends the fweat continually pro- moted by an opprellive heat. The other country in which rain never falls, and which is to the fouth of the Gulph of Guayaquil, extends beyond Arica towards the deferts of Atacama, or towards the confines of the torrid zone and the fouth temperate zone, a fpace of more than four hundred leagues in length by between twenty and thirty in breadth. There thunder is never heard, nor are we ever expofed to any ftorm. The foil there is always dry, or with more propriety we may obferve, that nothing is feen but arid fands. No verdure meets the eye, excepting on the banks of the rivers, which, falling from the mountains, traverfe thefe countries with unufual rapidity. So affured are they of having no rain, and fo little apprehenfive of it, that the houfes in Arica, as well bouguer's voyage to PERU. 281 ■well as Lima, are never roofed ; they content themfelves with mats by way of a cover- ing, over which they throw a fprinkling of foil or aflies, to abforb the dew and damps of the night. That the extreme differences in the conftitution of the atmofphere, and the quality of the foil of thefe countries, have a connection with each other, cannot be doubted. The nature of the foil has an influence upon the lower region of the air. Forefts, in all hot countries, not with (landing the Iky may be ferene, and the air pure without, are almofl always involved in a thick atmofphere. The faft is certain, becaufe it is vifible ; befides, it is not diflicult to explain, the reafon of it. Trees, like the earth, which is covered with corrupted vegetable and animal matter, and always expofed to excelfive heat, is fubjedt to a perpetual wafting. The evaporation takes the appearance of a fog which rifes to no height, feldom above that of the trees, if we notice only the denfe part of it ; but the imperceptible parts afcend to a great height, fufficient, fuch is the attradtive virtue of the wood, to conftitute a fpecies of communication between the foreft and the clouds. The exhaled particles unite themfelves with the vapours which form the clouds, which becoming, as it were, very fuddenly heavy, lofe their equili- brium on the bed of the air in which they are fufpended. While it is raining, they are in the midft of a fog ; that is to fay, the rain falls not ufually as it does here, breaking from a cloud apparently high over our heads : more frequently in the forefts of the torrid zone, all the upper and lower regions of the atmofphere are equally thick, or furcharged. Whatever tends to the progrefs of phyfics, is certainly not foreign to the relation of a voyage which has been undertaken to improve that fcience. I, therefore, ftiall not be afraid of joining to the recital of fads, certain reflections arifing therefrom, from, which fome benefit may be derived. There is every reafon to induce a belief, that the fmall particles of which the fogs and clouds are formed, are not fmall folid fpheres j but that they are rather, fimply, bubbles of air. Were this not fo, it would be im- poffible that the clouds fliould rife, and that they fliould afcend to a greater height in fummer than winter, when the air, lefs condenfed, is lefs capable of fupporting them. Attention to every other circumftance, and even to the manner the evaporation of liquors is accompliflied, will confirm this truth. In fact, whatever internal agitation may be imagined in any liquor that evaporates, the fmall particles which are thrown out, quickly iofe all their motion by the refiftance of the air, if they were but fimply thrown out, and are not poffeffed of a lightnefs difpofing them to float and rife. Thefe fmall bubbles fufpended in the air may be diffolved in various ways to rain. The wind, by driving them one againft the other, may jumble and break them. The heat may become fo violent, that the bubbles, by too great an inflatiiin occafioned by it, may burft. A very contrary caufe will produce a very fimilar effeft, when the air contained in thefe fmall hollow fpheres Ihall experience a too great condenfation, which will caufe fuch a diminution in the bulk of thefe fmall bubbles, that they cannot buoy themfelves. When the wind coming from the fea, bringing a cloud along with it, conducts it over a coaft covered with wood, it can affect but little alteration in the heat. A wood reflects the rays of the fun but in a very trifling degree ; and it is cer- tain that the heat, at a certain height above it, cannot be more intenfe than over the fea. But the continual evaporation, we have obferved, of the woods, further the de- fcent of the clouds and their diffolution; whereas, in the environs of Lima, and to the fouth of Guayaquil, nothing like this happens. The winds, which prevail moft in thefe parts, ordinarily blow from the fea and fouth- weft : but when a cloud driven by this wind reaches the land, it becomes expofed to a .VOL. XIV. o o jiew 282 bouguer's voyage to perl. new heat, that is to fay, to one different from what it received from the fea ; and which arifes from the refledion, and the neighbourhood of foil, compofed of nothing but fand. Thus the cloud is likely to be lefs difpofed to fall by its own weight, as the volumes of each of its bubbles mull neceffarily augment. It is true, if the dilatation were already too great, from the facility the fmall portion of the confined air had to receive the heat, the neighbourhood of an overheated coall would only tend to accelerate the burfting of the bubbles, and rain would be the more certain. So there is oftentimes a fufficiency of rain where the irrigation of the foil is praftifed ; but it is more common to obferve the clouds pafs over to a diftance of twenty-five or thirty leagues beyond, where they are met by the Cordelier, which, as a high wall, intercepts every thing not high enough elevated to fly over it. April 23, 1736. — It is now a month and a half ago fmce we firfl vifited thefe deferts, and it became neceffary that we fhould think of making our way to Quito, the roads to which we had now reafon to expeft, from the ceifation of the rains, were now be- ginning to be practicable. Being at this time at the mouth of the river Jama, which is nearly upon the fame parallel with Quito, M. Condamine and myfelf agreed to feparate and take different routes. M. Condamine followed the coaft towards the north in fearch of the river of Emeralds, continuing to lay down a map of the country he crofled in re-afcending it. With refpedi: to myfelf, retracing back my fleps, I took a fouthern direction for Guayaquil, and penetrated the forefts, the furface of which was fo over- flowed, that I was frequently, when mounted on horfeback, up to the knees m water : it was, in truth, no other than a continual morafs or flough. The violent efforts by the mules to extricate themfelves, expofed one every inftant to the hazard of being daflied againft a tree. Having reached Guayaquil, I quitted it the fame day, of courfe could not myfelf acquire much loiowledge of it. The town is large, and one of the moft flourilliing of all the country. Its advantageous fituation renders it the ftaple of the commerce of both Panama and Lima ; ancl though it is at a confiderable diftance from Quito, it is, properly fpeaking, the port of this latter place. It is big enough, and divided into two towns, called the old and new. The houfes, which are all built of wood, are fepa- rated but by funple partitions. Its fituation is five leagues from the fea, upon the weft- em bank of a wide and deep river, immediately below its confluence with the Daule, which is alfo a very fine river. Almoft all the rivers falling from the Cordelier into the Pacific Ocean, are no other than impetuous currents, notwithftanding the great quan- tity of water that comes down. But thefe rivers come down from too great an height, and fo rapid are their courfes to the fea, that they have not time to enlarge themfelves. Some are confined within very narrow beds, particularly the mofl part of thofe which crofs the countries on this fide the Gulph of Guayaquil ; others, running over a fandy foil, are much wider ; they frequently form great fheets of water, preferving, at the fame time, the rapidity impreffed by their fall. But the river Guayaquil, in falling into the gulph of that name, has a more gentle courfe, by reafon that it runs almoft parallel with the Cordelier ; its defcent is not fo great ; it is fubjeft to flux and reflux ; and is the recepticle of many other rivers. All thefe circumftances render it more navigable, and abounding in fifh ; but, at the fame time, it is full of Caymans, or crocodiles, fo common in America. I embarked upon this river, afcending it, and, on the 19th May 1736, reached Caracol, feated at the foot of the Cordelier ; a place left by M. Godin about three days before. This gentleman, although he had all the mules of the province at his com- mand, was under the neceflity of leaving here nearly a fifth part of our equipage, by 10 reafon, BOUGUER's voyage to PERU. 283 reafon, on 'account of the impraaicability of the roads, he was obliged to render the weight as moderate as he could. He continued his route, and entered Quito on the 29th May, one year and fome days more, from our departure from Europe. The manner of the reception of our companions in this capital is already known ; all the different corporate bodies of the city haftened to congratulate them on their arrival, and they were lodged in the palace until they could provide convenient houfes for themfelves. PART II. I [T was the loth of June before I reached Quito, having been detained at Caracol for want of a carriage, and my health had fuffered confiderably by the fatigue of the jour- ney from Rio Jama, and more particularly from Puerto Viejo to Guayaquil. However, I fet about, in my turn, to furmount the difficulties of the chain of mountains before me, which took me up feven days to accomplifh, although I did not eftimate the paf- fage over at more thin nine or ten leagues. But it is an extremely rugged afcent, in- terrupted by an infinity of different precipices, on the brinks of which we are often obliged to walk ; we are obliged too, many times to pafs a little river called Ojiva, in which many people are lofl every year ; though it is not a wide torrent, its " rapidity is frightful : we pafs it for the lafl time, we remove ourfelves from it, and yet we dread it, fo much it feems to threaten the traveller, even when at a diftance from it, with its roar. Sometimes, defcending, a deep ravine prefents itfelf, which we have difficulty to get over, and often a whole day is confumed only in afcending its oppofite fide, and then we find ourfelves but at a little diftance from the place we left in the morning. The laffitude of the mules is fo great, that you muft allow them to refl and take their breath every feven or eight fteps they make ; the whole journey becomes thus, although very laborious, but intervals of alternate reft, and a flowly progreffive motion. The rain was fo heavy, and every thing, during the firfl few days, fo very wet, that it was not poffible to make a fire ; and we had to live on bad cheefe, and bifcuit made partly of maize. We made each night, when we were not fo fortunate as to meet with a cabin already conftrufted by fome other traveller, the beft bed we could of the branches of trees, and their leaves. In proportion as we advanced, the heat of the torrid zone abated, and we foon became fenfible of cold. When I fay I was feven days on my journey, I do not reckon the ftay I made in the tovm called Guarenda, in the heart of the Cordelier, and which prefents a fituation of reft which no perfon fhould fail to avail themfelves of. The whole of my way was through woods, which termmated, as I have fmce fatisfied myfelf, at the height of fourteen or fifteen hundred toifes ; and when I came to any ftation more open than ufual, and caft my looks behind, I could fee 'no- thing but the immenfe forefts through which I had paffed, fpreading themfelves even to the fea. I at length got to the height, and found myfelf at the foot of a irountain called Chimborazo, always loaded with fnow, and all the foil covered with froft and ice. The Cordelier being nothing elfe than a long range of mountains, of which an infinity of its pointed fummits are loft in the clouds, it is not poffible to crofs them but 002 by 204 BOUGUEU'S VOYAGE TO PERU. by the necks or defiles ; but that by which I made my way, partook of its great ele\a- tion above the level of the fea. I was at the foot of the Chimborazo, and, in the mean time, I found myfelf already in the region where rain never falls ; to the greatefl diftance around me I beheld nothing but fnow or hoar froft. I followed exadly the fame route taken by the ancient troop of Spaniards, who are handed down to us in hiftory. This troop, commanded by Don Pedro Alvarado at the beginning of the conquefl: of Peru, and precifely two centuries before me, made this voyage to the aid of Francis Pizarro : he took, as I have ■ done, his way from Puerto Viejo to Guayaquil, by way of Jipijapa ; from Guayaquil he afcended to the foot of Chimberago, and went along the i'outh fide of this mountain to Riobamba, called at that period Rivecpampa : but in going over a hill, which could be no other than that known now under the name of Arenal, feventy of his followers, no other- wife acquainted with Peru than from report of its riches, and having taken no pre- caution, perifhed with cold and laflitude, among whom were two or three of the Spanifh women who firfl ventured into the country. Having attained the height, I muft neceffarily defcend. How was I furprifed at the novelty of the view ! I imagined myfelf, after having been fucceflively expofed to the ardour of the torrid zone and the horrors of cold, tranfported all at once, as it were, into the temperate climate of France, and into a country, as embellifhed here, in the moll engaging feafon. At a diftance I beheld well-enough cultivated fields, a great number of towns and vil- lages, inhabited by Spaniards or Indians, other fmaller and pretty towns, and all the open and unwooded traflis, peopled as are fome of our provinces. The houfes, no longer con- ftrudted with bamboos, as are thoie lower down, but built of folid materials, fome of ftone, but for the moft part of large bricks dried under ihade. Every village is ornamented wiih a fquare, one of the fides of which is partly taken up by the church ; in no region of the world have they failed to fet this place, which is a parallelogram, to the eaft, from which ftreets divide in ftraight lines, open to the diftant country ; even the fields are frequently interfered thus, at right angles, which give to them the form of a gar- den. Such is that part of the province of Quito, fituared by the Cordelier to the north and fouth of this capital ; worthy, indeed, by its fize, its edifices, and number of inhabitants, of its title. This city is about eight or nine hundred toifes in length, by five or fix in breadth ; is the feat of a bifhop, and the refidence of the prefident of the Audience, who is alfo governor of the province. It has a great number of reli- gious focleiies in its bofom, and two colleges, which are a fort of univerfities, one under the direftion of the Jefuits, and the other under the Dominicans. The inhabit- ants amount to between thirty and forty thoufand, one-third of whom are Spaniards, or of Spanilh origin. Provifions are exceedingly dear. The on.y foreign merchan- dize there is, and that carried on with difficulty, is at an excefiive price, as our cot- tons, woollen cloths, and filk ftuffs. I have frequently given fix reals, or more than a crown, a pound for iron, to make fome inftruments of; a drinking-glafs cofts eighteen or twenty francs : but every neceflary of life is to be found there, and the country furnilhes them in abundance. it muft be confclfed, when one is in the deferts, at a diftance from the Cordelier, and look upon this briftled chain of fummits, it is impoflible to imagine to onefelf anv thing concealed among them. One would be led to believe that, in climbing thefe mountains of fuch terrific afpe£l, when we have reached the height, we fliould be com- pelled by the ir.clemency of the weather to defcend on the other fide, where we ftiould meet with forefts like thofe we had left behind : it could never enter the mind that be- hind thefe mountains extend a fecond range equally high, and that they ferve, neither one BOUGUER's voyage to PERU. 285 one nor the other, but as a Ihelter to this happy country ; where nature has traced out in her gifts, to fay rather, in her profufions, the image of a terreftrial paradife. This country is comprehended between the double chain of the Cordelier, which, like two walls, feparate it on the fides of eaft and weft from the reft of America. The firft of the two chains is, as we have already mentioned, at from 40 to 45 leagues from the fea ; the two are parallel to each other at about the diftance of feven or eight leagues ; I mean their ridges ; fomptimes they fly off", at othei s approximate, but always preferve the fame direftion, which varies little from that of the meridian : from their extreme vicinage, the land or plain which feparates them muft be very elevated. This plain is five or fix leagues in breadth ; the two chains of the mbuntains, which, to thofe on the outfide of them, appear but a fingle mafs, are very vifibly diftinft to the inhabitants living between them. Quito, and the largeft portion of the province, is thus fituated in an extended valley, which is ever reputed a mountain, from being placed between higher mnimtains, the moft oi which are covered with fnow, or, if I may be •permitted an exprefllon conformable to that in ufage in the country, fnowed. The Cordelier is not double in its whole length, though I know it to be fo, having vifited the country, from the fouth of Cuenca to the north oi Popayan, to an extent of more than one hundred and feventy leagues ; and I know it to be double yet further towards the north, although the country, by its finking, lofes by degrees the good qualities it poffefles in the environs of Quito. The fufficient width of the valley and its expofition to the fun would, it might be fuppofed, render the heat of it infupportable : but, on the other hand, the great elevation of the land, and the vicinage of the fnow, it muft be eafily conceived, muft temperate the heat ; the two contrarie;;, if one may fo exprefs onefelf, are intermarried, and the iffue of the connection can be no lefs a lafting autumn than a perpetual fpring. They are ftrangers to many of the hurtful animals, the tiger and ferpent, fo fre- quent in the forefts of the low countries ; the heat in the higher country is not fuf- ficient for them. The thermometer of Reaumur kept its fituation at fourteen or fif- teen degrees ; the fields are always green, where grow the fruits of the torrid zone with thofe of Europe, as apples, pears, and peaches : the trees there are almoft always in fap ; every fpecies of grain, and particularly wheat, is there very productive. Wine might be made there, had not Lima obtained an exclufive privilege to make it one of the objeiils of her commerce, while Quito fubfifted on her commodities, and by her manufadlories of woollen cloths, calicoes, ?*nd cottons. Year?; of fcarcity and dearth do not ordinarily furnifti proofs of the fertility or goodnefs of the country in which it prevails, neverthelefs Peru is a fingular excep- tion to this rule. Another example of a more rainy year than 1741, perhaps, a century will not produce. The crops all failed, and the harveft did not yield fcarcely a feventh or an eighth part of the average of other years ; the price of every thing increafed, as may be imagined, enough ; for the inhabitants of the country of Peru are unacquainted with magazines of referve to have recourfe to on fuch occafions, A very moderate degree of labour is fufficient to render the foil, which is there extremely teeming, liberally produQive ; yet is bread very dear, double and treble of what it is with us, becaufe the viev.s of the people of the province of Quito extend not beyond the prefent wants, and leave much of their lands uncultivated. The fcarcity caufed a rife nine times over in the price of wheat, maize, and all other grain, and even in potatoes, which, with the maize, is the chief food of the Indians. It feems the public calamity muft have been extreme, and it was, too, fpread widely round : in the mean time fcarcely any body fuffered ; the poorer fort were fomewhat incommoded, but a86 bouguer's voyage to peru. but they lived ; they had recourfe to fruits and \arIous forts of vegetables, which never failed them. Cheefe they were never without ; and, as the cattle could always find rich paflurage in the extenfive open plains of the mountains, meat was always cheap, and at a price, although I have noticed the reafon of the advance, which will furprize, when compared with that of bread ; beef was more than two or three fous a pound of our money. Every thing neceflary for clothing is there as eafily obtained. Flax grows very well : I have feen fome which had been cultivated in the country, which was very fine. The wools are not of quite fo good a quality as ours, but by ufing the better fort of it they might make better cloths than they do. The Vicuna is not feen at Quito, but they have an animal of much the fame fpecies, which the Indians call Llamas ; it may better be compared to a fmall camel, and this they ufe to carry burthens of from fifty to fixty pounds weight : the Vicuna is to be found in Chili, and will live, no doubt, in many places of the Cordelier of Peru. Ingredients are found proper for dyeing. Indigo is common in the low countries ; in the higher, there is a flirub grows that gives a very fair yellow, and in many places they attend to the breeding of the infeft, known under the name of the Cocheneal, which gives the crimfon colours. They carry on a commerce with Ambato, a place twenty leagues fouth of Quito, where the temperature is nearly the fame ; perhaps the thermometer may (land at one or two degrees higher. There is now no want of fpices, or, what is the fame thing, they have it in their power to fubftitute, for thofe with which we are acquainted, others produced in the country, which they do effectively, and more fuccefsfully. Laflly, it is fufficient to chufe a fitu- ation either a little higher or lower (for we have fliewn this long valley does not form a perfeclly even plain), to enjoy the air and the advantages of the moll difl'erent climates. From the circumftance of the fphere being here very much equal, the days are always nearly of the fame length with the nights;, it is a perpetual equinox, and the degree of temperature is nearly the fame throughout the year in the fame place : the rains only mark the feafons, and they fall nearly as they do in the low countries in the forefts, from the month of November till May : thefe rains, together with the earthquakes, and frequent volcanic eruptions, which are in great numbers, conflitute the bad qualities, of which but few good ones are behind to balance, of thefe countries. It is eafy enough for a traveller who penetrates into the interior of the valley, to fatisfy himfelf he does not defcend within as he afcends without, and that he is at a confiderable height above the level of thefea, but to what degree is difficult, nay impofiible, for him to eflimate. There is no time for reflcftion in fuch a journey; man, in purfuing it, is then but a machine. All the collected waters dilcharging thcmfelves from the two Cordeliers, fail in all direftions of the horizon, on the cutfide of them, either to the North or South Sea, which mark their great height ; thefe waters form the highefl cataradls in the world ; but they mark out nothing precilely to the fimple traveller. Thus it is not aftonifhing that the inhabitants of Quito fhould have had the information from us, that of all the people of the known world, they are the highelt fituated ; that their elevation above the fea was from fourteen to fifteen hundred toifes, and that they breathed an air more rarified by one third than other men *. Nor need any part of the known world be excepted in this obfervation, as from every circumflance we have reafon to believe, that the mountains of the temperate and frozen zones are un- inhabitable, and even inacceflible to half their height. * The mercury in the barometer at Quito kept its flation at twenty inches one h'ne. We BOUGUEr's voyage to PKRtT. 487 We found ourfelves, at firft, confiderably incommoded by the rarefaftlon of the air, particularly thofe among us who had delicate lungs, felt the alteration moft, and were fubjecl to little hemorrhages ; this no doubt arifes from the lightnefs of the atmofphere, no longer aiding by its compreffion on the veffels, to the retention of the blood, which on its fide maintains always the power of adtion. I did not myfelf, when we had occafion to afcend much, obferve this inconvenience to increafe j perhaps the reafon might be I was already inured to the country, or it might be owing to the cold preventing the dilatation of the air to the degree it might otherwife have been. Many of us while afcending, fainted, and were fubjefl: to vomiting ; but thefe accidents were more the etrefl: of wearinefs than a difficulty in breathing ; this is inconteilibly proved by their never being fubjefl; to this inconvenience while on horfe- back, and when they had attained the fummit, where the air, notwithftanding, was more fubtle. I do not deny that this great rarefadion haftens lalTitude, and contri- butes not a little to exhauftion, for refpiration becomes extremely oppreffive at every exertion however trifling, and at the lead motion we make we are out of breath : but ceafe thefe exertions and this motion, and the confequences are no more. I advance nothing that 1 have not been many times witnefs to, and fliould have witneffed many times more, had not experience quickly taught many among us that it was not per- mitted us to expofe ourfelves to fo great a fatigue. Quito is at the foot of one of thele mountains, named Pichincha, which belongs to the weilern chain of the Cordelier, and is that on the fide of the South Sea ; this is afcended, as are the moft part of the others, very high on horfe-back. Many of thefe mountains refemble each other, infomuch that their bafes are formed by feveral hills covered with an argillaceous or common foil, from the middle of which a pyramid or mafs of ftones rifes from one hundred aiid fifty to two hundred toifes in height. There is fome appearance that in remote times the whole was covered with a foil, and that it has Aided by degrees from, or fome finlung occafioned by an earthquake, have laid bare, the rocks. This part of Pichincha is very difficult to climb, we remained upon its fummit for three weeks : the cold was very intenfe, fo much fo, that fome fcorbutic affections began to make their appearance on fome of us, and the Indians, and other fervants we had engaged in the country, experienced violent pains : they vomited blood, and fome of them were obliged to defcend ; but this indifpofition was not continual while we were ftationed upon the point of the rock, it arofe from the intenfenefs of the cold, to which they had never been accuftomed ; the dilated ftate of the air did not appear to be the caufe, at leaft the immediate or moft approximate caufe : I examined with the more circumfpe£lion into this, as I was aware thdt the moft part of travellers had been led into an error with regard to the circumiiance, by not enough unravelling the different effects. Frequently, when we have beer at fupper in the evening, we have had an earthen pan of fire, with many candles alignt in the midft of us, and the door of our cabin with double hides, and yet all wuuld not prevent the water freezing in our glalfes. We had every difficulty imaginable to manage a pendulum ; we were continually in the clouds, which abfolutely veiled from our fight every thing but the point of the rock upon which we were ftationed. Sometimes the fky would change three or four times in the fpace of half an hour ; a tempeft was followed by fine weather, and in an inftant after, thunder, loud in degree to its proximity, ftruck upon our ears; our rock producing' the fame effect with regard to it, as the fands of the fea when the waves dafh agamif them. We did not ule our thermometer towards the end of our ftay upon the rock, and when we thought the cold had become too intenfe ; • but 288 BOUGUEr's voyage to PERtT. but we had already obfen-ed the inftruraent to have been at feme degrees below the freezing point, and that it varied more than at Quito. It had often \-aried between morning and the afternoon feventeen degrees, although always in the Ihade. The mercury which flood espofed on the margin of the fea, was at twent)-eight inches one line, and on the rock one line below fixteen inches ; the elafticir\- of the air was proved to be, as in the lower countries, and in Europe, exactly in proportion to their condenfations. Thefe obfervations, together with many others made with much care, not only confirm this exact relation, but proves to us that the intenfin*, even of the elailic force, or ^•irtue of the air, is evidently equal in all the places of confiderable elevation of the torrid zone. The acludl condenfations in every place are there proportional to the weight of the upper columns of air, which caufe the comprefEon : and thefe condenfations or denfities alter in a geometrical prcgrejlion, while the heights of places are in arithmetrical progreilion *. Below, this is not the fame, becaufe the intenfity of the elafldc force of the air is there really lefs than at one or two hundred toifes higher, and it muft necelTarily be ccnfiderablv lefs, becaufe it is fo notwithftanding the effect of the heat which contributes to render it greater. This is not the place to infifl farther on this fubjed;, and to explain the different means I a^'ailed myfelf of to afcertain, in every place, the precife degree of this force. To clofe my account of the obfer\-ations made upon Pichincha, the pen- dulum in feconds, when it was flopped immediately for the purpofe of experiments, was fhorter there, than on the fhore of the fea„ by thirty-fix hundredths of a line t. All our perfeverance was requifite to flruggle againfl the rigour of our fituadon for more than rwent)' davs ; and we were at length obliged to acknowledge the neceiCty of renouncing fo ele\-ated a ftation. The higher we afcended, the more ground we would explore, our difcoveries dwindled almofl to nothing. A high mountain not only arrefls every cloud that meets it, but thofe ah'o at a certain dil^ance pafUng the fide of it, they are thrown behind bv the wind, and are there becalmed. Befides, if it happens the point upon which we are flationed fhould be free of them, frequently the others we want to fee, are not ; and the difficulty becomes incomparably greater when the fight of four or five mountains is abfolutely neceffary almoll at the fame * This fupplies a very fimple rule which I here explain in favour of fome of my readers. They have only to look into the ordinary table of logarithms for the heights of the barometer, expreiTed in lines ; and if they take a thirtieth part fronn the difference of thefe logarithms, in taking with the charaSeriflic the four firft figures only which follow it, they will have the relative heights of the places in toifes. The mercury ftood in the barometer at Carabouron, which is the loweft of our ^tions, at twenty -one inches two and three-quarter lines, or at two hundred acd fifty-four and three-quarter lines : whereas on the rocky fummit of Pichincha it flood at fifteen inches eleven lines, or one hundred and ninety -one lines. If we take the difference of the logarithms of thefe two numbers, it will produce one thoufand two hun- dred and fifty, and if a thirtieth part is fubtraiSed, it will give one thoufand two hundred and nine toifes for the height of Pinchincha above Carabouron, which correfponds with the geometrical folution. The application of this rule is the more exad as the heights of the mercury in the barometer varj- very little in any place of the torrid zone. The variation below, near the fea, is litde more than two and a half or three lines, and at Quito about one line. M. Godin has been the firfl to notice thefe variations at certain hours every day at Quito, which I attribute to the daily Bilatation caufed by the heat of the fun upon the atmofphere. On the banks of the fea, this d'.latation caufes no alteration in the weight of the air, for be its column higher or lower its weight Ihould be equally the fame ; but the dilatation caufed during the day takes fomewhat away from a part of the lower column, which adds more to the higher one ; and this varies the diflributiun of the weight with relation to all places Ctuate in the Cordelier, and even upon other mountains. f I have noticed it on the mountains at thirty-fix inches fix feventy-one-hundnedth lines ; at Quito thirty-Cx inches fix eighty-three-huodredcb lines ; and on the fea fhore thirty-Ci inches feven feven-b»iE- dredtb lines. inllant. BOUGUEr's voyage to PERLf. 28^9 Inftant. We therefore became fenfible it would in every refpefl: be more to our ad- vantage not to make the triangles of our meridian fo high, and that we ought ordi- narily to be fatisfied with placing our fignals upon the hills at the bafe of the rocky pyramids. But notwithftanding this very neceffary precaution, nothing incommoded us in our labour fo much, as the fudden alterations ~of heat and cold which we expe- rienced from one moment to another, every time, however inconfiderablej we afcended or defcended. M. Condamine and myfelf had already once more afcended the mountain, but with no other defign than to examine the ftation, when we were obliged inftantly to defcend ; we were furprifed by a florm, the wind had no particular direction, but blew from every quarter at the fame moment upon us. The thunder drove the hail-ltones horizontally againft us, and was fcarcely louder than the flafli from a gun, which im- prelled the idea upon us, that upon the moft elevated mountains the report of it v;ould not be at all heard. We had every opportunity during the three weeks we were fta- tioned here, to reform this firfl: opinion ; and we have been a great number of times fmce upon other mountains, where we have heard the molt terrible rolling of thunder, fometimes over our heads ; at others, beneath us. It is not to be difputed that the claps of thunder are fometimes very weak ; fuch as they are generally when the light- ening is feen and no noife follows. We do not hear them below ; thefe are happily flrokes without effeft, which may arife from many caufes, and often from the great diftance at which we may be from them. At the time I have juft mentioned, when upon the height, we were in the very focus of the ftorm, but apparently the inflam- mable matter had colleded in too fmall a quantity. The higheft ftations, in our work of the meridian, have always occafioned us the moft trouble. The moft elevated ftation we availed ourfelves of for our triangles, is two thoufand three hundred and thirty-four toifes above the fea, and is named Sinazahuan ; it forms one of the fummits of the mountain of Afouay, which divides the jurifdiction of Riobamba and Cuenca. It will furprife you to be told the Incas have carried a road over this height, which they are in the habit of daily frequenting ; but they are careful to chufe the weather ; for if they have the misfortune to be caught in a ftorm, mingled with hoar or fnow, they run a rifk of never returning more. We fortunately carried a change of tents along with us ; ten or twelve of the days we were ftationed there, we had to fubftitute the one for the other three times fucceffively. So greatly were they alarmed on our account at Atun-Cagnor, a town three or four leagues diftant, that public prayers were offered up for us. Every variety of weather we have had whilft amid thefe mountains, has fufficiently fatisfied us how much certain philofophers have been miftaken, who have conceived the clouds of a nature different from fogs. The clouds have frequently not afcended to us, they have been five or fix hundred toifes below us, and have veiled the valley from us, while the inhabitants of the plain could not difcern the fky : at other times thefe clouds having lefs weight, have rifen higher, and become to us a fimple fog in which we found ourfelves involved. When I have noticed them very much above me, they have always appeared very white : I do not know what better I can compare them to with regard to the colour and form they then prefented, than to heaps of cotton touching each other, whofe union prefents a wavy furface. With refpeft to the colour, it is precifely the fame as with water and glafs ; glafs we know lofes its tranfparency when pulverifed, and when looked on at its brighteft fide, appears to have all the whitenefs of fnow. So it is with water when reduced to very fmall particles, or almoft imper- ceptible drops in the clouds or fogs. If thefe fmall drops are nothing elfe than fmall VOL. XIV. p r hollow 290 BOUGUER's voyage to PtRU. hollow fpheres, the interior air more or lefs dilating them muft neceffarily oblige the water which forms the bubble to vary its thicknefs, and the fmall fphere changing its bulk, the cloud muft afcend to a greater or lefs height, till it meets with an equili- brium in the bed of the atmofphere in which it floats. To-day the clouds are of a certain fpecific -weight, and maintain their fituations at a precife height ; they are ob- ferved throughout the whole mountain to attain but to a certain point ; to-morrow the 'fmall bubbles will be bigger or lefs, the clouds become more or lefs light, and they will be obferved to ftation themfelves in a higher or lower region. It is at fun-rife they are noticed to be more fufceptible of motion, when they afcend in an uniform manner, and fometimes with great velocity. But to return to their tranfparency, as the fmall bubbles which compofe them, prefent too large a number of fmall furfaces to the light, they appear opake when viewed from below ; whereas were the fpeftator ftationed above them, as we frequently were upon Pichincha and other mountains, all the reflected and intermingled rays, after having undergone various refractions, form the white, conformably to what we are acquainted with, regarding the property of light. There is an extraordinary phenomenon vifible almoft every day upon thefe moun- tains, and which muft neceffarily be as old as the world, yet there is much probability we have been the firft to notice it. The firft time we remarked it, we were together upon a mountain of a medial height called Pambamarca. A cloud in which we were enve- loped, removing, opened to our view the fcene of a very brilliant rifing fun, the cloud paffed from the other fide ; it was not thirty paces diftant, being yet too fliort a one to give it that whitenefs of which I have fpoken, when each of us faw his own fliadov/ projedted above, and only faw his own, by reafon the cloud did not prefent an even furface. Its proximity allowed us to diftinguifh every part of the fhadow ; we faw the arms, legs, and head ; but what aftonifhed us the moft was, that the head was deco- rated with a glory or circlet compofed of three or four concentric coronets, of a very lively colour, each with the fame variety as the firft rain-bow, the red being the out- ward colour. The diftances between thefe circles were equal, the laft circle the fainteft ; and after all at a great diftance we noticed a large white circle, which fur- rounded the whole. This was a fort of apotheofis to each fpedator ; and I muft not negledt to apprize you, each every day calmly enjoyed the exquifite plcafure of viewing himfelf decorated with all thefe glories, and faw no trace of thofe of his neighbour's. It is true it is precifely the fame thing with regard to the rain-bow, although it has not always been attended to. Each fpeftator views a diftincl rain-bow, fince the arch has a different centre for every perfon ; but as the coronets which are feen upon the moun- tains of Peru are very fmall, and feem to belong to the fhadow of the fpeftator, each has a right to appropriate what he difcovers to himfelf. The tirft immediately encircles the head of the fhadow, the others follow, and the fpedator, only witnelhng what concerns himfelf, merely conjectures that his neighbours find themfelves in a fimilar fituation. I frequently noticed the diameters of thefe circles, nor did I fail to do fo the firfi: time I beheld them ; for I halHly made a fort of radius with the firit rules at hand, becaufe I was apprehenfive this admirable fight might prefent itfelf but feldom. i have remarked the diameters from one moment to another to vary in dimenfion, but wheth;.r lefler or greater, the interval or fpace between them always maintained its equality. Befide the phenomenon is only pittured upon the clouds, and on fuch only whofe particles are congealed, and not, like the rain-bow, on drops of rain. When ?. cloud that fhades the fun withdraws, and the fun becomes more ardent, quickly the 12 little BOUGUEr's voyage to PERU. 29I little bubbles of the oppofite cloud neceffarily dilate ; their furface enlarging, the thick- nefs of the water contained in them diminifhes : and reduced to a thinner fubftance, it is only a greater obliquity, or bubbles more remote from the centre of the fliadow, which can prefent to us, as other experiments of this nature have confirmed, the fame colours. The diameter of the firft circle was commonly nearly five degrees two- thirds, the next nearly eleven degrees, the third feventeen degrees, and thus on ; the white circle was nearly fixty-feven degrees in diameter. The time proper to view this phenomenon, which requires that the (hadow be projefted from a cloud, is a fuffi- cient excufe for the Peruvians never having beheld it, and why they fhould not be blamed for it. It is an hour not ufual for any but a philofopher to be found upon the fummit of a high mountain : it might probably be noticed fometimes, on our moft elevated fteeples. All of us have feen at a Ihort diflance from us, fogs confined to a very circumfcribed fpace ; one thing only was wanting, which was the fun in the op- pofite horizon ; but where this latter circumftance has not exactly correfponded, a portion of the white circle is frequently to be diftinguilhed, as I have at diiferent times remarked fmce I have paid attention thereto. The height of the rocky fummit of Pichincha, is nearly the fame with that of the loweft conftant termination of the fnow on all the mountains of the torrid zone ; and I have found it at two thoufand four hundred and thirty-four toifes above the level of the South Sea. The fnow falls much lower ; it even, though but rarely, fometimes falls at Quito, which is more than nine hundred toifes fhort of the height of Pichin- cha, but it may be thawed the fame day : whereas in all the parts of the Cordelier I have gone over, I have obferved it higher to lie undiflblved. Some mountains do not reach this point of termination ; others, as Pichincha, border upon it ; others, and thefe in great numbers, lift themfelves ftill higher, and have their fummits continually covered ; and confequently, from the fnow being converted into ice, are inacceffible. When the mountains are not enveloped in clouds, their furface muft be a little thawed during the day ; but the fun ceafing to act, the furface becomes glazed ; the water paffes into the interftices of the lower beds, and there freezing, renders the fnow extremely compact, and forms a folid whole. The furface hardens at the fame time, and becomes as fmoothly poHlhed as a mirror, fo that it is as it were impoffible to afcend higher. This limit depends upon too great a variety of circumftances not to •be liable to great irregularities. Many mountains in Peru have a difpofition to emit flame, for almofl all of them have been volcanic, or actually are fo notwithftanding their fnows, which much induce a forgetfulnefs of the circumftance : it is befides cer- tain, the larger the dimenfion of the mafs is which conftitutes their bale, the more fufceptible they muft be of heat, and the limit of congelation farther removed ; as thefe maffes muft be confidered a fecondary foil, every day irabibing the heat of the fun ; on the other hand the part covered with fnow, when very confiderable, produces a contrary effed: ; it caufes a greater cold around, capable of congelation, or producing ice a little lower down. In the mean time the difterence is not great, in?.fmuch as I have remarked the lower boundary of the fnow, to form a level line through all the mountains of Peru, in a manner to enable us at a glance to judge of their height. The volcanoes, as I have noticed, create the ftrongeft exception to this rule ; but the exception is fometimes fuch as it may be difficult to forefee. This I have remarked with regard to Cotopaxi, a ftation of our meridian, fituated on the eaftern chain. The fpot on which we were ftationed was between one hundred and fifty and one hundred and eighty toifes below the fnow ; but this mountain, from a recent irruption in 1742, had caufed the fnow above to thaw. We faw it from below fometimes increafe, and p p 2 fometimes 292 BOUGUER's voyage to PERU. fometimes dimlnifli, in thicknefs ; but, at the fame time, the boundary of the beginning of congelation likewife lowered ; and fell below the flation on which we were encamped to work at our triangles. I gave myfelf the trouble, at the beginning of 1743, again to vifit the mountain, to fatisly myfelf of this, and various other circumftances, fo that I could not be deceived. This fmgularity feems to have fome connexion with thofe acknowledged operations, in which congelation is haftened by the ailidanceof fire. In the meantime, the examination led me to a difcovery, that the fmgularity depended upon a very different caufe. I difcovered, that what at a diftance I had taken for fnow was not, but water, which, falling from above, and gufhing from out the mountain on every fide, froze as it run. It is certain, that the leaft degree of heat is fufiicient to thaw particles fo delicate as fnow, when it falls upon a furface interiorly heated. But when a body of water of a certain thicknefs runs over the fame ground, the heat below may be fo weak, as not to communicate with the upper furface ; and if this furface is found expofed to an excefs of cold, nothing can prevent it being converted into ice. The fnow on the higher parts of Cotopaxi thawing, from its vicinity to the fire, conti- nually produces new water, and this water freezing below after being divided into an infinity of ftreams, forms, as it were, when received at a certain diftance, ringlets of ice on the mountains, but, looked at from a certain diftance, it appears a perfeft cover- ing. The fame eSeO. may have place upon all the other mountains ; the fnow only maintaining itfelf to a certain limit in defcending ; whereas a body of water will, in proportion as it decreafes in bulk, freeze on its furface, lower on the mountain. Such is the elucidation of this phenomenon, derived to me from my vifiting the places. If regard is had to the exception it furnifhes, and to others lefs confiderable, we repeat it, the lower limits of the fnow conftitutes a fufKciently exaft level line through all the country in the environs of the equator. But if we examine the circumflance in a more general manner, if we direft our re- gard to the globe, this line will not be found exaftly parallel with the earth : it is evi- dent it muff, in its direction, gradually fall, as it retires from the torrid zone, or ad- vances towards the poles. In the middle of the torrid zone this line is at two thoufand four hundred and thirty-four toifes above the level of the fea ; at the entrance into the temperate zone, it will be found but two thoufand one hundred, paffing by the fummit of Theyde, or the Peak of TenerllV, which is nearly of this height*. In France and Chile, the line will pafs at fifteen or fixteen hundred toifes, and, continuing to defcend * The Pere Feuillee, to whom we are indebted for a great number of obfervations, afligns, in a manufcript relation prefented to the Academy on his return from a voyage to the Canaries in i 724, two thoufand two hundred and tliirteen toifes to the heiglit of the Peak of TenerifF. But we are induced to believe, for reafons we (hall give, that we muft take from the calculation of tliis height one hundred and forty or one hundred and fifty toifes at li? the oppofite fide, and principally the Bogota, which paffes by Santa-Fe, and joins the Magdalene over againft Ibague, whofe fituation I have already defcribed. The Bogota is very confiderable, even at Santa-Fe. A higher cataratt is not to be found in the world, than is formed by it at fifteen or fixteen leagues below this town, and about eight leagues from the Magdalene, at a place called Tequendama, being fuppofed to be about two hundred fathoms in height.* * The remainder is omitted, as the topics are better illuflrated in the following voyage. Iffjwn n ^i Sln/>iUs. £tjrjviJ hf t^yi ur.^ie. 20 00 ;5 9 3^^^- 1 1 odW. 3 3= 3» *3 08 22 7 00 10 30 3 30 30 11 10 21 6 00 9 3° 3 30 26 SI 14 54 4 00 7 00 3 00 25 52 16 28 15 59 43 46 3 40 30E. 6 30 2 coE. 2 50 I 3D 15 20 47 32 Off Cape de la Vela 2 30 6 00 4 00 7 30 I 30 I 30 To the abrve obfervations on the Tariation of the needle, compaied %»iih thofe on the \'ariation chan, firft publilhed bv the great Dr. Halley in i~zz. and correded in 1744, from other obfenaiions and iotimals by Meflrs. Montaine and Dodfon cf Lon- don, I fhall add fome refiednons. in order to expole the negligence in coniirucnnj the magnetic needles, i. It appears that the rariations obferved bv Don George Juan da not agree with mine, vrhich is not to be attributed to a defea in the obferranonsw This k fufEdentlv exident from comparing them. Tbe diffeieoces betveen thoiie oblored by Don George and thofe on the chart, are nearly erery whoie umfbrm ; the moft oonfi- derabie bang a degree and fifty minutes ; one making the Tariadcn 2° 30*, and the odier a degree csilv. This probably aioCe £pom the moticHi of the flup, which hinders the needle from being entirdy at reft ; or from the di& of die fun, by realbn erf m- ter\'aiing vapours, not being accurately determined, ot fome other tmartwlaUe Ticei^\ffn\ ; the error, vsiien the differoice is le& than a degree, bdi^ Ibaicdy perceivable in tfaefe obferrations. Thus, on a medium, the ratioaal otMidafian is, that the needle ufed in thefe obfervarions varied 2 degree and forty minutes le& than thofe when the map was conilructed. The fame uniformity- appears in the diierenoes between my obfeiratiaos and the chart ; but it muil be c4>ferved, that having nfed two di&rent needles, the particulars of each nearlv corrdiMad, fo that between the fif% firft, the greateft d ifi erenoe is of fbrtv minutes, which intervene between the finalleft di£ferenoe (tf 2** 50', and the greateft of 3** 30'. Hence, taking the mediimj between both, the difierence between my ob- fervations and the chan w^ be 3*^ 16 , the latter being fo much lefe than the former. The three lafl do not want this operatian, the difleroice of 1^ 30' being equal in aU, and the variatiais refolting Brom thefe <4^erratians are alfo kfe ^an thofe ddneated on the map ; the vaiiation havii^ paflfd to a diuettnt ^lecies ^ namdy, firam north-weft to north-eaiL This denranftiates, that the firft needle I made ufe o^ whether it had been HI touched, or the fted not accurately placed, varied i^ 30* wefteilj \sS& than that ufed by Don George Joan ; and as this officer ronrinwd his oMervaiiaas to the end of the voyage with the fame needle, the difl e r ence, vhidi at firft was negative, od the variation changing its denomination became po&tive ; and from mj chai^;ii^ inftru- ments, the difference on my fide cxntinued alwajs n^atiTe. The reafon of this is, that the difference of the five fixil oMervatioos fwooeeded le& from a real d iffe rence in die variation, than from the poles of the needle, which was fo far from anfwerii^ exaiSly with the moidian-Kne on the oompafe-card, that it inclined towards the ncMth-weft ; the contrary ha}^>ened in die feoond compafe made ufe of, its inrtinatinn being towards the nortb-eaft ; cxnfequently, whatever die ai^;ie of diat indmatuai was, it occafiooed a propordcaiate diminauoD in die variadon of a cootrarv fpecies. Thefe ulloa's voyage to south ameuica. 327 Thefe obl'ervations, thus compared, fhew the errors to which navigators are liable, for want of attention in making choice of proper needles, which they fhould be careful to procure, not only well made and exact, but alfo ftrictly tried with regard to their in- clination to the true meridian, before they venture to depend upon them in any voyage. In this point, Spain is guilty of a notorious neglect, notwithftanding it is evidently the fource of a thoufand dangerous errors ; for a pilot, in correcting the courfe he has fleered, in making ufe of a compafs whofe variation is different from the true, will con- fequently find a difference between the latitude by account and the latitude obferved ; and to make the neceffary equation according to the rules commonly received in failing on points near the meridian, he muft either increafe or diminilh the diftance, till it agrees with the latitude, whereas in this cafe the principal error proceeded from the rhomb. The fame thing happens in parts where it is apprehended there may be cur- rents ; which often occur in failing when the latitude by account, and that by obferva- tion, difagree ; though in reality the water has no motion, the difference proceeding entirely from making ufe of another variation in the courfe, than that of the needle by which the Ihip is fteered ; as was the cafe with me in failing from Martlnico to Curafao, and likewife of all the artifts on board the ffiip. Another error incident to navigators, though not fo much their own, is to fteer the fliip by one needle, and obferve the va- riation by another ; for though they have been compared, and their differences carefully obferved, their motions being unequal, though at the beginning of the voyage the dif- ference was only a certain number of degrees, the continual friftion of the former on the pivot, renders the point of the needle, on which it is fufpended, more dull than the other, which is only hung when they make obfervations, being at all other times kept with the greateft care ; and hence proceeds the change obfervable in their differ- ences. In order to remedy this evil, all needles intended to be ufed at fea fhould be equally proper for obferving the variation ; and the obfervation made with thofe before placed in the bittacle ; and, to improve the charts of variation, fhould be touched in the fame manner, and adjufled to the meridian of place, where the exact variation is known. Thus obfervations made in the fame places by different fhips, would not be found fo confiderably to vary ; unlefs the interval of time between two obfervations be fuch as to render fenfible that difference in the variation, ■^^'hich has been obferved for many years paft, and is allowed of by all nations. Thefe are the caufes of the manifeft difference between needles ; there may be others, but this is not the proper place for enumerating them. CHAP. II. — Defcription of Carihagena. ON the .9th of July 1735, we landed, and Don George Juan and myfelf imme- diately waited on the governor of the place. We were informed that the French acade- micians were not yet arrived, nor was there any advice of them. Upon this informa- tion, and being by our inftruttions obliged to wait for them, we agreed to make the beft ufe of our time ; but were unhappily deflitute of inflruments, thofe ordered by His Majefty from Paris and London not being finifhed when we left Cadiz, but were forwarded to us at Quito foon after our arrival. We, however, fortunately heard that there were fome in the city, formerly belonging to Brigadier Don Juan de Herrera, engineer of Carthagena ; by thefe we were enabled to make obfervations on the latitude, longitude, and variation of the needle. We alfo drew plans of the place and the bay from thofe of this engineer, with the neceffary additions and alterations. 2 In ^28 ULLOA's voyage to SOCTH AarERfCA. In thefe operations we employed ourfelves till the middle of November 1735, impa- tient at the delay of the French academicians. At length, on the 15th, a French armed veffel came to an anchor, during the night, under Boca Chica ; and to our great fatisfaftion we learned, that the long-expedled gentlemen were on board. On the i6th we vifited them, and were received with all imaginable politenefs by M.de Ricour, captain of a man of war, and king's lieutenant of Guarico, in the ifland of St. Do- mingo ; and Meffrs. Godin, Bouguer, and De la Condamine, academicians, who were accompanied by Meffrs. Juffieu, botanifl ; Seniergues, furgeon ; Verguin, Couplet, and Deffordonais, affociates ; Morenvile, draughtfman ; and Hugot, clock-maker. Our intention being to go to the equator with all poffible expedition, nothing re- mained but to fix on the nioft convenient and expeditious route to Quito. Having agreed to go by the way of Porto Bello, Panama, and Guayaquil, we prepared to fail ; in the meantime, by help of the inftruments brought by the academicians, we repeated our obfervations on the latitude, weight of the air, and the variation of the needle ; the refult of which will appear in the following defcription : — The city of Carthagena (lands in 10^ 25' 48I" north latitude; and in the longitude of 282' 28' 36" from the meridian of Paris; and 301^ 19' 36" from the meridian of Pico Teneriffe ; as appeared from our obfervations. The variation of the needle we alfo, from feveral obfervations, found to be eight degrees eafterly. The bay, and the country, before called Calamari, were difcovered in 1502 by Ro- derigo de Baftidas ; and in 1504, Juan.-de la Cofa and Chriftopher Guerra began the war againfl the Indian inhabitants, from whom they met with greater refiftance than they expeded ; thofe Indians being a martial people, and valour fo natural to them, that even the women voluntarily fhared in the fatigues and dangers of the war. Thdr ufual arms were arrows, which they poifoned with the juice of certain herbs ; whence the flighted wounds were mortal. Thefe were fucceeded by Alonfo de Ojeda, who fome years after landed in the country, attended by the fame Juan de la Cofa, his chief pilot, and Americo Vefpucio, a celebrated geographer of thofe times ; but made no greater progrefs than the others, though he had feveral encounters with the Indians. Nor was Gregorio Hernandez de Oviedo more fortunate. But, at length, the conqueft of the Indians was accomplifhed by Don Pedro de Heredia, who, after gaining feveral viftories over them, peopled the city in 1533, under the title of a government. The advantageous fituation of Carthagena, the extent and fecurity of its bay, and the great fliare it attained of the commerce of that fouthern continent, foon caufed it to be erefted into an epifcopal fee. The fame circumftances contributed to its prefer- vation and increafe, as the moft efteemed fettlement and ftaple of the Spaniards ; but at the fame time they drew on it the hoftilities of foreigners, who, thirfting after its riches, or induced by the importance of the place, have feveral times invaded, taken, and plundered it. The firfl invafion was made foon after its eflablifliment in 1 544, by certain French adventurers, conduced by a Corfican pilot, who, having fpent fome time there, gave them an account of its fituation, and the avenues leading to it, with every other parti- cular neceffary to the fuccefsful conduct of their enterprife ; which they accordingly effected. The lecond invader was Francis Drake, termed the deftroyer of the new conquefts, who, after giving it up to pillage, fet it on fire, and laid half the place in affies ; and its fatal deflrudion was only prevented by a ranfom of a hundred and twenty thoufand filver ducats paid him by the neighbouring colonies. It was invaded a third time in 1597, by the French, commanded by M. de Pointis, who came before the place with a large armament, confifting partly of Flibuftiers, little 9 better ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA, 329 better than pirates : but, as fubjefts to the King of France, were protected by that monarch. After obliging the fort of Boca Chica to furrender, whereby the entrance of the bay was laid open, he landed his men, and befieged Fort Lazaro, which was followed by the furrender of the city. But the capitulation was no fecurity againft the rage of avarice, which had configned it to pillage. This eafy conqueft has by fome been attributed to a private correfpondence between the governor and Pointis ; and what increafes the fufpicion is, that he embarked on baard the French fquadron at its departure, together with all his treafures and effedls, none of which had ihared in the general calamity. The city is fituated on a fandy ifland, which forming a narrow pafTiige on the fouth- weft opens a communication with that part called Tierra Boniba, as far as Boca Chica. The neck of land which now joins them, was formerly tlie entrance of the bay ; but it having been clofed up by orders from Madrid, Boca Chica became the only entrance ; and this alfo has been filled up fmce the attempt of the Enghfli in 1741, who, having made themfelves mafters of the forts which defended it, entered the bay with an intent of taking the city ; but they mifcarried in their attempt, and retired with confiderable lofs. This event caufed orders to be difpatched for opening the old entrance, by which all {hips now enter the bay. On the north fide the land is fo narrow, that, before the wall was begun, the diftance from fea to fea was only thirty-five toifes ; but afterwards enlarging, forms another ifland on this fide, and the whole city is, excepting thefe two places, which are very narrow, entirely furrounded by the fea. I'.afhvard it communi- cates, by means of a wooden bridge, with a large fuburb called Xexemani, built on another ifland, which has alfo a communication with the continent by means of another wooden bridge. The fortifications, both of the city and fuburb, are conftruJled in the modern manner, and lined with free-ftone. The garrifon, in times of peace, confifts of ten companies of regulars, each containing, officers included, feventy-feven men ; befides feveral companies of militia. In the fide of Xexemani, at a fmall diftance from that fuburb, on a hill, is a fort called St. Lazaro, commanding both the city and fuburb. The height of the hill is between twenty and twenty-one toifes, having been geometrically meafured. It is joined to feveral higher hills, which run in an eaftern diredion. Thefe terminate in another hill of confiderable height, being eighty-four toifes, called Monte de la Popa, and on the top of it is a convent of bare-footed Auguftines, called Nueftra Senora de la Popa. Here is an enchanting profpeft, extending over the country and coaft to an immenfe diftance. The city and fuburbs are well laid out, the ftreets being ftraight, broad, uniform, and well paved. The houfes are built of ftone, except a few of brick ; but confift chiefly of only one llory above the ground-floor ; the apartments well contrived. All the houfes have balconies and lattices of wood, as more durable in this climate than iron, the latter being foon corroded and deftroyed by the moifture and acrimonious quality of the nitrous air ; from whence, and the fmokv colour of the walls, the out- iide of the buildings makes but an indifferent appearance. The churches and convents of this city are the cathedral, that of the Trinity in the fuburbs, built by bifhop Don Gregory de Molleda, who alfo in 1734 founded a chapel of eafe dedicated to St.Toribio. The orders which have convents at -Carthagena, are thofe of St.Francis, in the fuburbs, St.Dominic, St.Auguftin, La Merced, alfo the Ja- cobins, and Recollets ; a college of Jefuits, and an holpital of San Juan de Dios. The nunneries are thofe of St. Clara and St. Terefa. All the churches and convents are ofa proper architedure, and fufficiently capacious ; but there appears fomething of poverty VOL. XIV. u u in ^^o tlloa's totage to south amebic a- in the omaraents, fome of them wanting \rhat even decency requires. Tne ccmmuni- ties, particularly that of Si. Francis, are pretty numerous, and ccnift cf Eurcpeans, white Creoles, and native Indians. Carthagena, together with its fuburbs, is equal to a city of the third rank, in Europe. It is v.- ell peopled, though mofl of its inhabitants are ddcended from the Indian tribes. It is not the mofl opulent in this country, for, beSdes the pillages it has fufiered, no mines are worked here ; io that mofl of the money feen in it is fent £rom Santa Fe and Quito, to par the falaries of the governor and other civil and militar)- oScers, and die wages of the garrifon ; and even this makes no long Hay here. It is not, however, unfrequent, to find perfons who have acquired handfome fommes by commerce, whofe houfes are fplendidlv fumiihed, and who live in every refpeci agreeable to ther wealth. The governor refides in the city, which, till 1739, was ind^tendent of the military government. In ci\il a3airs, an appeal lies to the audiaice of Santa Fe ; and a viceroy of Santa Fe being that vear created, vmder the title of viceroy of New Granada, the government of Carthagena became fubjed to him alfo in military afiairs. The firft who filled this viceroyalry was lieutenant-general Don Sebaftian de Eilava ; who defaided Carthagena againil the powerful invafion of the Englilh in 1741. Carthagena has aho a bifliop, whofe fpirinjJ jurifdidion is of the fame extent as the military and civil government. The ecclenaiHcal chapter is comgofed of the biihop and prebends. There is alfo a court of inquifidon, whofe power reaches to the three pro- vinces of lila Efpanola (where it was firll fettled). Terra Firma, and Santa Fe. Befides thefe tribunals, the police and adminiilration of julHce in the dry is under a feculax magTilracv, confifting of regidores, from whom every year are diofen two alcaldes, who are generally perfons of the higheft efieem and diilindion. Thee is alfo an office of revenue, vmder an accoimtant and treafurer : hae all taxes and mcKii^ belonging to the King are received ; and the proper iffues direded. A perfoa of the law, with the title cf auditor ds la genie de g-jerrj, determines proceiles. The jurifdidion of the government of Carthagena reaches eallward to the great river De la Magdalena, and along it fouthward, till, winding awar, it borders en the pro- ■vince of Antioquia ; from thence it flreiches weflward 10 the river of Daiioi j and from thence nonhward to the ocean, all along the coalls between the mouths of thefe two ri\ers. The extent of this government, from eail to weft, is geneiallj cxxcputed at fifty-three leagues : and from fouth to north, eghty-five. In this fpace are feverai fruitful vallies, called by the natives Savannas ; as thofe of Zamba, Zenu, Tclu, Mom- pox, Baranca, and others ; and in ihera many fettlemenrs large and fmall, of Euro- peans, Spaniih Creoles, and Indians. There is a tradition, that all thde comuiies, together with that of Carthagena, whihl they ccmtinued in their native idolatry, abounded in gold ; and fome veftiges of the old mines of that metal are IKll to be feea in the neighbourhoods of Simiti San Lucas, and Guamaco ; but thev are n: '. _ ' ited, being as imagined, exhauiled. But what equally contributed to the ric:. :-. .- ; this country, was the trade it carried on with Choco and Dariai ; from whence they brought in exchange for this metal, the feverai manu&duies and works of art they flood in need of. Gold was the moll common ornament of the Indians, both for men and •women. CliAP. III. — DcfcripUm tf CarthagerLi Bay. CARTHAGENA bay is one cf the befl, not only en the coaft, bu: alfo in all the known parts of this country. It extends two leagues and 2 haj from north 10 f>>uih ; has CLLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 33 1 has a fufficlent depth of water and good anchorage ; and fo fraooth, that the fliips are no more agitated than on a river. The many fhallows, indeed, at the entrance, on fome of which there is fo little water that even fmall veffels ftrike, render a careful fleerage neceflary. But this danger may be avoided, as it generally is, by taking on board a pilot ; and for further fecurity, His Majefly maintains one of fufEcient experi- ence, part of whofe employment is to fix marks on the dangerous places. The entrance to the bay, as I have already obferved, was through the narrow ftrait called Boca Chica, a name very properly adapted to its narrownefs, fignifying, in Spa- nifh. Little Mouth, admitting only one fhip at a time, and even flie muft be obliged to keep clofe to the fhore. This entrance was defended on the eaft by a fort called Saint Lewis de Boca Chica, at the extremity of Tierra Bomba, and by Fort St. Jofeph on the oppofite fide in the Ifle of Baru. The former, after fuftaining, in the laft fiege by the Englifli, a vigorous attack both by fea and land, and a cannonading of eleven days, its defences ruined, its parapets beat down, and all its artillery difmounted, was relin- quifiied. The enemy being thus mafters of it, cleared the entrance, and, with their whole fquadron and armaments, moved to the bottom of the bay. But, by the dili- gence and induftry of our people, they found all the artillery of fort Santa Cruz nailed up. This fort was alfo, from its largenefs, called Caftillo Grande, and commanded all the (hips which anchor in the bay. This, together with that of Boca Chica, St. Jofeph, and two others, which defended the bay, called Manzanillo and Paftelillo, the enemy, enraged at their difappointment, demolifhed when they quitted the bay. The promifing beginning of this invafion, as I have already obferved, gave occafion to the fhutting up and rendering imprafticable the entrance of Boca Chica, and of opening and fortifying the former ftrait j fo that an enemy would now find it much more diffi- cult to force a paffage. The tides in this bay are very irregular, and the fame may nearly be faid of the whole coaft. It is often feen to flow a whole day, and afterwards ebbs away in four or five hours ; yet the greateft alteration obferved in its depth is two feet, or two feet and a half. Sometimes it is even lefs fenfible, and only to be perceived by the current or flow of the water. This circumftance increafes the danger of ftriking, though a fere- nity continually reigns there. The bottom alfo being compofed of a gravelly ooze, whenever a fhip is aground, it often happens that flie mufl: be lightened before flie can be made to float. Towards Boca Chica, and two leagues and a half diftant from it feawards, there is a flioal of gravel and coarfe fand, on many parts of which there is not above a foot and a half of water. In 1735, the Conquiftador man of war, bound from Carthagena to Porto Bello, ftruck on this flioal, and owed her fafety entirely to a very extraordinary calm. Some pretended to fay that the flioal was before known by the name of Salme- dina ; but the artifts on board aflirnied the contrary, and that the flioal on which flie ftruck had never been heard of before. From the obfervations of the pilots and others, Nueftra Senora de la Popa bore eaft-north-eaft two degrees north, diftance two leagues ; the caftie of St. Lewis de Boca Chica, eaft-fouth-eaft, diftance three leagues and a half, and the north part of Ifla Vofaria, fouth one quarter wefterly. It muft, how- ever, be remembered, that thefe obfervations were made on the apparent rhombs of the needle. The bay abounds with great variety of fifli both wholefome and agreeable to the palate ; the moft common are the fliad, the tafte of which is not indeed the nioft deli- cate. The turtles are large and well tafted. But it is greatly infefted with fliarks, which are extremely dangerous to feamen, as they immediately feize every perfon they V V 2 ' difcover 33« ulloa's voyage to south America. difcover in the water, and fometimes even venture to attack tliem in their boats. It is a common diverfion for the crews of thofe fliips who flay any time in the bay, to fifli for thefe rapacious monfters, with large hooks faftencd to a chain ; though, when they have caught one, there is no eating it, the ilelh being as it were a kind of liquid fat. Some of them have been feen with four rows of teeth ; the younger have generally but two. The voracity of this filh is fo prodigious, that it fwallows all the filth either thrown out of fliips, or caft up by the fea. I myfelf faw in the Itomach of one the en- tire body of a dog, the fofter parts only having been digefled. The natives affirm that they have alfo feen alligators ; but this being a frefn- water animal, if any were' ever feen in the fea, it mufl be fomething very extraordinary. In the bay the galleons from Spain w ait the arrival of the Peru fleet at Panama, and on the firfl advice of this, fail away for I'orto Bello ; at the end of the fair held at that town, they return into this bay, and, after taking on board every neceflary for their voy- age, put to fea again as foon as poilible. During their abfence the bay is little fre- quented ; the country velTels, which are only a few bilanders and feluccas, flay no lon- ger than is neceflary to careen and fit out for profecuting their voyage. CMAP. IV. — 0/ the Inhabitants of Carthagena. THE inhabitants may be divided into different cafls or tribes, who derive their origin from a coalition of Whites, Negroes, and Indians. Of each of thefe we fhall treat particularly. The Whites may be divided into two clafTes, the Europeans, and Creoles, or Whites born in the country. The former are commonly called Chapetones, but are not nu- merous ; mofl of them either return into Spain after acquiring a competent fortune, or remove up into inland provinces in order to increafe it. Thofe who are fettled at Car- thagena carry on the whole trade of that place, and live in opulence ; whilll the other inhabitants are indigent, and reduced to have recourfe to mean and hard labour for fub- fiftencc. The families of the White Creoles compofe the landed interefl ; fome of them have large eflatcs, and are highly refpeded, becaufe their ancellors came into the coun- try inveftcd with honourable polls, bringing their families M'ith them when they fettled here. Some of thefe families, in order to keep up their original dignity, have either married their childi-en to their equals in the country, or fent them as officers on board the galleons ; but others have greatly declined. Befides thefe, there are other Whites, in mean circumftances, who either owe their origin to Indian families, or at leaft to an intermarriage with them, fo that there is fome mixture in their blood ; but when this is not difcoverable by their colour, the conceit of being Whites alleviates the prefTure of every other calamity. Among the other tribes w hich are derived from an intermarriage of the Whites with the Negroes, the firfl are the Mulattos. Next to thefe the Tercerones, produced from a White and a Mulatto, w ith fome approximation to the formerj but not fo near as to obliterate their origin. After thefe follow the Ouarterones, proceeding from a White and a Terceron. The lafl are the Quinterones, who owe their origin to a White and Quarteron. This is the lafl: gradation, there being no vifible difference between them and the Whites, either in colour or features ; nay, they are often fairer than the Spa- niards. The children of a White and Ouinteron are alfo called Spaniards, and confi- der themfelvcs as free from all taint of the Negro race. Every perfon is fo jealous of the order of their tribe or caft, that if, through inadvertence, you call them by a ti2 degree ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 3-33 degree lower than what they actually are, they are highly ofFended, never fufFering thenifelves to be deprived of fo vakiable a gift of fortune. Before they attain the clafs of the Quinterones, there are feveral intervening cir- cumftances which throw thetn back ; for between the Mulatto and the Negro there is an intermediate race, which they call Sambos, owing their origin to a mixture between one of thefe with an Indian, or among therafelves. They are alfo diftinguiflied ac- cording to the cafts their fathers were of. Betwixt the Tercerones and the Mulattos, the Quarterones and the Tercerones, &c. are thofe called Tente en el Ayre, fufpended in the air, becaufe they neither advance nor recede. Children, whofe parents are a Quarteron or Ouinteron, and a Mulatto or Terceron, are Salro atras, retrogrades, be- caufe, inftead of advancing towards being Whites, they have gone backwards towards the Negro race. The children between a Negro and Ouinteron are called Sambos de Negro, de Mulatto, de Terceron, &c. Thefe are the mofl known and common tribes or Cartas ; there are, Indeed, feveral others proceeding from their intermarriages ; but, being fo various, even they them- felves cannot eafily diflinguilh them ; and thefe are the only people one fees in the city, the eftancias*, and the villages ; for if any Whites, efpecially women, are met with, it is only accidental," thefe generally refiding in their houfes, at leaft, if they are of any rank or character. Thefe cafts, from the Mulattos, all affed the Spanifia drefs, but wear very flight fluffs on account of the heat of the climate. Thefe are the mechanics of the city ; the Whites, whether Creoles, or Chapitones, difdaining fuch a mean occupation, follow nothing below merchandize : but it being impofhble for all to fucceed, great numbers not being able to procure fufBcient credit, they become poor and mifer- able from their averfion to thofe trades they follow in Europe ; and, inftead of the riches which they flattered themfelves with polTefTrng in the Indies, they experience the moft complicated wretchednefs. The clafs of Negroes is not the leaft numerous, and is divided Into two parts ; the free and the flaves. Thefe are again fubdivided into Creoles and Bozares, part of which are employed in the cultivation of the hazlandes f, or eftancias. Thofe in the city are obliged to perform the moft laborious fervices, and pay out of their wages a certain quota to their mafters, fubfifting themfelves on the fmall remainder. The vio- lence of the heat not permitdng them to wear any clothes, their only covering is a fmall piece of cotton ftuff about their waift ; the female flaves go In the fame manner. Some of thefe live at the eftancias, being married to the flaves who work there ; while thofe in the city fell in the markets all kind of eatables, and dry fruits, fweet-meats, cakes made of the maize, and calTava, and feveral other things about the ftreets. Thofe who have children fucking at their breaft, which is the cafe of the generality, carry them on their fhoulders. In order to have their arms at liberty ; and when the infants are hun- gry, they give them the breaft either under the arm or over the fhoulder, without taking them from their backs. This will, perhaps, appear Incredible ; but their breafts, being left to grow without any prefTure on them, often hang down to their very waift, and are not therefore difficult to turn over their fhoulders for the convenience of the; infant. * Eftancia properly figniiies a manfion, or place w\ere one ftops to reft ; but at Carthagena it implies s country-houfe, which, by reafon of the great number of flaves belonging to it, often equals a confiderable village. f Hazianda in this place fignities a country-houfe, with the lands belonging to it- The 334 ulloa's voyage to south America. The drefs of the Whites, both men and women, dlflers very little from that worn in Spain. The perfons in grand employments wear the fame habits as in Europe ; but with this difference, that all their clothes are Mery hght, the waiftcoats and breeches being of fine Bretagne linen, and the coat of fome other thin fluff. Wigs are not much worn here ; and during our flay, the governor and two or three of tlie chief officers only appeared in them. Neckcloths are alfo uncommon, the neck of the fhirt being adorned with large gold buttons, and thefe generally fuffered to hang loofe. On their heads they wear a cap of very fine and white linen. Others go entirely bareheaded, having their hair cut from the nape of the neck *. Fans are very commonly worn by men, and made of a very thin kind of palm in the form of a crefcent, having a flick of the fame wood in the middle. Thofe who are not of the White clafs, or of any eminent family, wear a cloak and a hat flapped ; though fome Mulattos and Negroes drefs like the Spaniards and great men of the countiy. The Spanifli women wear a kind of petticoat, which they call pollera, made of a thin filk, without any lining, and on their body, a very thin white waillcoat ; but even this is only worn in what they call winter, it being infupportable in fummer. They, how- ever, always lace in fuch a manner as to conceal their breafls. When they go abroad they wear a mantelet ; and on the days of precept, they go to mafs at three in the morning in order to difcharge that duty, and return before the violent heat of the day, which begins with the dawnf. Women wear over their pollera a taffety petticoat, of any colour they pleafe, except black ; this is pinked all over, to fhew the other they wear under it. On the head is a cap of fine white linen, covered with lace, in the fhape of a mitre, and, being well llarched, terminates forward in a point. This they call panito, and never appear abroad without it, and a mantelet on their fhoulders. The ladies, and other native Whites, ufe this as their undrefs, and it greatly becomes them ; for, having been ufed to it from their infancy, they wear it with a better air. Inflead of fhoes, they only wear, both within and without doors, a kind of flippers, large enough only to contain the tip of their feet. In the houfe their whole exercife confills in fitting in their hammocks J, and fwinging themfelves for air. This is fo general a cuflom, that there is not a houfe with- out two or three, according to the number of the family. In thefe they pafs the greater part of the day, and often men, as well as women, fleep in them, without minding the inconveniency of not flretching the body at full length. Both fexes are poffeffed of a great deal of wit and penetration, and alfo of a genius proper to excel in all Idnds of mechanic arts. This is particularly confpicuous in thofe who apply themfelves to literature, and who at a tender age, fhow a judgment and perfpicacity, which in other climates, is attained only by a long feries of years and the greatefl application. This happy difpofition and perfpicacity continues till they are between twenty and thirty years of age, after which they generally decline as fall as they rofe ; and frequently, before they arrive at that age, when they fhould begin to reap the advantage of their fludies, a natural indolence checks their farther pro- grefs, and they forfake the fciences, leaving the furprifmg effcds of their capacity imperfefl:. * Here, and in moft parts of South America, t'ley have their hair cut fo fliort, that a ftrangcr would think eveiy man had a wig, but did not wear it on atcount of tlie heat. •{• The heat is inconfiderable, compared with that if the afternoon, till half an hour after fun-rife. — A. J Thefe hammocks are made of twilled cotton, and commonly knit in the manner of a net, and make no fmall part of the traffick of the Indians, by whom the^ are chiefly made. —A. 6t The ULLOA*S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. ^;^^ The principal caufe of the fliort duration of fuch promifing beginnings, and of the indolent turn fo often feen in thofe bright geniufes, is doubtlefs the want of proper objefts for exercifing their facuhies, and the fmall hopes of being preferred to any pod anfvverable to the pains they have taken. For as there is in this country neither army nor navy, and the civil employments very few, it is not at all furprifmg that the defpair of making their fortunes by this method, fhould damp their ardour for excell- ing in the fciences, and plunge them into idlenefs, the fure forerunner of vice ; where they lofe the ufe of their reafon, and ftifle thofe good principles which fired them when young and under proper fubjedtion. The fame is evident in the mechanic arts, in which they demonftrate a furprifmg fkill in a very little time ; but foon leave thofe alfo imperfeft, without attempting to improve on the methods of their mailers. Nothing indeed is more furprifmg than the early advances of the mind in this country, children of two or three years of age converfmg with a regularity and ferioufnefs that is rarely feen in Europe at fix or feven ; and at an age when they can fcarce fee the light, are acquainted with all the depths of wickednefs. The genius of the Americans being more forward than that of the Europeans, many have been willing to believe that it alfo fooner decays ; and that at fixty years, or before, they have outlived that folid judgment and penetration, fo general among us at that time of life ; and it has been faid that their genius decays, while that of the Europeans is haftening to its maturity and perfedion. But this is a vulgar prejudice, confuted by numberlefs inftances, and particularly by the celebrated Father Fr. Benito Feyjoo, Teatro Critico, vol. iv. effay 6. All who have travelled with any attention through thefe countries, have obferved in the natives of every age a permanent capa- city, and uniform brightnefs of intellefi: ; if they were not of that wretched number, who diforder both their minds and bodies by their vices. And indeed one often fees here perfons of eminent prudence and extenfive talents, both in the fpeculative and praftical fciences, and who retain them in all their vigour, to a very advanced age. Charity is a virtue in which all the inhabitants of Carthagena, without exception, may be faid particularly to excel : and did they not liberally exert it towards European flrangers, who generally come hither to feek their fortune, fuch would often perilh with ficknefs and poverty. This appears to me a fubjeft of fuch importance, though well known to all who have vifited this part of the world, that I fliall add a word or two on it, in order to undeceive thofe, who, not contented with perhaps a competent eftate in their own country, imagine that it is only fetting their foot in the Indies, and their fortune is made. Thofe who on board the galleons are called Pulizones, as being men without em- ployment, (lock, or recommendation ; who, leaving their country as fugitives, and, without licenfe from the officers, come to fcek their fortune in a country where they are utterly unknown ; after traverfing the ftreets till they have nothing left to procure them lodging or food, they are reduced to have i-ecourfe to the lad extremity, the Francifcan hofpital ; where they receive, in a quantity fufficient barely to keep them alive, a kind of pap made of cafava ; of which, as the natives themfelves will not eat, the difagreeablenefs to wretched mortals never ufed to fuch food, may eafily be con- ceived *. This is their food ; their lodging is the entrance of the fquares and the porticos of churches, till their good fortune throws them in the way of hiring them- felves to fome trader going up the country, who wants a fervant. The city merchants, * This is called Mandioc by the natives, and is the chief fnbftitute the poorer people have for bread ; and fo far from being rejected even by the richer, that many prefer it to bread made from the beft European flour, much more to bifcuit, which after fuch a voyage generally begins to be full of weevils. A- ftanding *^6 ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. {landing in no need of them, difcountenance thefe adventurers. AfFe6Ved by the diffe- rence of the climate, aggravated by bad food, dejecled and tortured by the entire difap- pointnient of their romantic hopes, they fall into a thoufand evils, which cannot well be reprefented : and among others, that diflemper called Chapetonada, or the diflem- per of the Chapetones, without any other fuccour to fly to than Divine Providence ; for none find admittance into the hofpital of St. Juan de Dios, but thofe who are able to pay, and confequently poverty becomes an ablblute exclufion. Now it is that the charity of thefe people becomes confpicuous. The negro and mulatto free women, moved at their deplorable condition, carry them to their houfes, and nurfe them with the greatell care and affection. If any one die, they bury him by the charity they pro- cure, and even caufe maffes to be faid for him. The general iifue of this endearing benevolence is, that the Chapetone, on his recovery, during the fervour of his grati- tude, marries either his negro or mulatto benefa<5trefs, or one of her daughters ; and thus he becomes fettled, but much more wretchedly than he could have been in his own country, with only his own labour to fubfill on. The difmtereftednefs of thefe people is fuch, that their compailion towards the Cha- petones mufl not be imputed to the hopes of producing a marriage, it being very common for them to refufe fuch offers, either with regard to themfelves or their daugh- ters, that their mifery may not be perpetual, but endeavour to find them mailers whom they may attend up the country, to Santa Fe, Popayan, Quito, and Peru, whither their inclinations or profpeSs lead them. " They who remain in the city, whether bound by one of the above marriages, or, which is but too common, are in another condition very dangerous to their future happinels, turn Pulperos *, Canoeros, or fuch like mean occupations ; in all which, they are fo harraffed with labour, and their wages fo fmall, that their condition in their own country mufl have been miferable indeed, if they have not reafon to regret quitting it. The height of their enjoyment, after toiling all day and part of the night, is to regale with bananas, a cake of maize or cafava, which ferves for bread, and a flice of cafajo, or hung-beef ; without tafling wheat bread during the whole year. Others, not a few, equally unfortunate, retire to fome fmall eftancia, where, in a Bujio or flraw hut, they live little different from beafls, cultivating, in a very fmall fjx)t, fuch vegetables as are at hand, and fubfifling on the fale of them. What has been obferved with regard to the negro and mulatto women, and which may alfo be extended to the other cafts, is, as to the charitable part, applicable to all the women and whites ; who in every tribe, are of a very mild and amiable difpofition ; and from their natural foftnefs and fympathy excel the men in the practice of that chriftian virtue. Among the reigning cufloms here, fome are verv different from thofe of Spain, or the moll known parts of Europe. The principal of thefe are the ufe of brandy, cho- colate, honey, fweat-meats, and fmoking tobacco : all which fliall be taken notice of. The ufe of brandy is fo common, that the mofl regular and fober perfons never omit drinking a glafs of it every morning about eleven o'clock ; alledging that this fpirit flrcngthens the flomach, weakened by copious and conflant perfpiration, and fharpens the appetite. Hazer las onzc, to take a whet at eleven, that is to drink a glafs of brandy, is the common invitation. This cuflom, not efleemed pernicious by thefe people when ufed with moderation, has degenerated into vice ; many being fo * Pulperos are men who work in a kind of tent, called in Spanifli Pulperios, and the Canoeros are watermen who carry goods in Pirogues or canoes. fond ULLOA S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. ;^^y fond of it, that during the whole day, they do nothing but hazer las onze. Perfons of diftincUon ufe Spaniih brandy, but the lower clafs and negroes very contentedly take up with that of the country, extraded irom the juice of the fugar-cane, and thence called Agoa ardente de canna, or cane brandy, of which fort the confumption is much the greateft. Chocolate, here known only by the name of cacao, is fo common, that there is not a negro flave but conftantly allows himfelf a regale of it after breakfaft ; and the negro women fell it ready made about the ftreets, at the rate of a quarter of a real (about five farthings fterling) for a difli. This is however fo far from being all cacao, that the principal ingredient is maize : but that ufed by the better fort is neat, and worked as in Spain. This they conftantly repeat an hour after dinner, but never ufe it fafting, or without eating fomething with it. They alfo make great ufe of fweet-meats and honey ; never fo much as drinking a glafs of water without previoufly eating fome fweet-meats. Honey is often preferred as the fweeter, to conferves or other fweet-meats either wet or dry. Their fweet-meats are eaten with wheat bread, w hich they ufe only with thefe and chocolate ; the honey they fpread on cafava cakes. The pallion for fmoking is no lefs univerfal, prevailing among perfons of all ranks in both fexes. The ladies and other white women I'moke in their houfes, a decency . not obferved either by the women of the other cafts, nor by the men in general, who regard neither time nor place. The manner of ufing it is, by flender rolls compofed of the leaves of that plant ; and the women have a particular manner of inhaling the fmoke. They put the lighted part of the roll into their mouths, and there continue it a long time without its being quenched, or the fire incommoding them. A compliment paid to thofe for whom they profefs an intimacy and efteem, is, to light their tobacco for them, and to hand them round to thofe who vifit them. To refufe the ofier would be a ihark of rudenefs not eafily digefted ; and accordingly they are very cautious of paying this compliment to any but thofe whom they pre- vioufly know to be ufed to tobacco. This cuftom the ladies learn in their childhood from their imrfes, who are negro flaves ; it is fo common among perfons of rank, that thofe who come from Europe eafily join in it, if they intend to make any confi- derable flay in the country. One of the moft favourite amufements of the natives here, is a ball, or Fandango. Thefe are the diftinguifhed rejoicings on feftivals and remarkable days. But while the galleons, guarda coftas, or other Spanifh fliips are here, they are moft common, and at the fame time conducled with the leaft order ; the crews of the fhips forcing them- felves into their ball-rooms. Thefe diverfions, in houfes of diftinftion, are conducled in a very regular manner ; they open with Spanifh dances^ and are fucceeded by thofe of the country, which are not without fpirit and gracefulnefs. Thefe are accompanied with f^nging, and the parties rarely break up before day-light. The Fandangos or balls of the populace, confift principally in drinking brandy and wine, intermixed with indecent and fcandalous motions and geftures ; and thofe con- tinual rounds of drinking foon give rife to quarrels, which often bring on misfortunes. When ftrangers of rank vifit the city, they are generally at the expenfe of thefe balls ; as the entrance is free, and no want of liquor, they need give themfelves no concern about the want of company. ITieir burials and mournings are fomething fmgular ; as in this particular they en- deavqur to difplay their grandeur and dignity, too often at the expenfe of their trau' quillity. If the deceafed be a perfon of condition, his body is placed on a pompons VOL. XIV. X X Catafalco, 338 • dlloa's voyage to south America. Catafalco, erefled on the principal apartment of the houfe, amidfl a blaze of tapers. In this manner the corpfe lies twenty-four hours or longer, for friends to vifit it at all hours ; as alfo the lower clafs of women, among whom it is a cuftom to lament over the deceafed. Thefe women, who are generally dreffed in black, come in the evening, or during the night, into the apartment where the corpfe lies ; and having approached it, throw themfelves on their knees, then rife and extend their arms as to embrace it ; after which, they begin their lamentations in a doleful tone, mixed with horrid cries, which always conclude with the name of the deceafed : afterwards they begin, in the fame difagreeable vociferations, his hiflory, rehearfmg all his good and bad qualities, not even omitting his amours of any kind, and in fo circumftantial a narrative, that a gene- ral confefTion could hardly be more full ; at length, quite fpent, they withdraw to a corner ftored with brandy and wine, on which they never fail plentifully to regale themfelves. As thefe depart from the body, others fucceed, till they have all taken their turn. The fame, afterwards is repeated by the fervants, flaves, and acquaintance of the family, which continues without intermiflion during the remainder of the night ; whence may eafily be imagined the confufion and noife occafioned by this difmal voci- ferous ceremony. The funeral alfo is accompanied with the like noify lamentations ; and even after the corpfe is depofited in thegrave, the mourning is continued in the houfe for nine days, during which time the Pacientes or mourners, whether men or women, never flir from the apartment, where they receive the Pefanes, or compliments of condolence. During nine nights, from fun-fet to fun-rifing, they are attended by their relations and intimate acquaintances ; and it may be truly faid of them, that they are all fincerely forrowful ; the mourners for the lofs of the deceafed, and the vifitors from the uneafi- nefs and fatigue of fo uncomfortable an attendance. CHAP. V. — 0/ the Climate of Carthagena^ and the D'lfeafes incident to Natives and Foreigners. THE climate of Carthagena is exceffively hot, for by obfervations we made on the 19th of November 1735, by a thermometer conftrudted according to Mr. Reaumur, the fpirit was elevated to 1025! ; and in our feveral experiments made at different hours, varied only from 1024 to 1026. By experiments made the fame year at Paris on a thermometer of the fame gentleman, the fpirit rofe on the i6th of July at three in the afternoon, and on the loth of Augufl; at half an hour after three, to 1025I, and this was the greateft degree of heat felt at Paris during that year ; confequently the degree of heat in the hotteft day at Paris, is continual at Carthagena. But the nature of this climate chiefly difplays itfelf from the month of May to the end of November, the feafon they call winter ; becaufe during that time, there is ahnofl a continual fuccellion of thunder, rain, and tempefts ; the clouds precipitating the rain with fuch impetuofity, that the ftreets have the appearance of rivers, and the ccountry of an ocean. The inhabitants make ufe of this opportunity, otherwife fo dreadful, for filling their cifterns ; this being the only fweet water they can procure. Befides the water foved for private ufes, there are large refervoirs on tlie ballions, that the town may not be reduced to the (hocking coiifequence of wanting water. There are indeed wells in mofl houfcs ; but the water being thick and brackifli, is not fit to drink, but ferves for other ufes. From ULLOa'3 voyage to south AMERICA. 339 From the middle of December to the end of April, the rains ceafe, and the weather becomes agreeable, the heat being fomewhat abated by the north-eaft winds which then fet in. This feafon they call fummer ; befides which, there is another called the Little Summer of St. John, as, about the feftival of that faint, the rains are intermitted, and refrelhing gales begin to blow, and continue about a month. The invariable continuance of fuch great heats, without any fenfible difference be- tween night and day, occafions fuch profufe perfpiration, that the wan and livid com- plexion of the inhabitants would make a ftranger fufpedl they were juft recovered from fome terrible diftemper. Their aftions are conformable to their colour ; in all their mo- tions there is fomething lax and fluggifli ; it even affefts their fpeech, which is foft and flow, and their words generally broken. But notwithftanding all thefe appearances of ficknefs and debility, they enjoy a good ftate of health. Strangei's from Europe retain their ftrength and ruddy colour poffibly for three or four months ; but afterwards both fuffer fuch decays from the excefllve perfpiration, that thefe new-comers are no longer to be diftinguifhed by their countenances from the old inhabitants. Young perfons are generally moft affefted by the climate, which fpares the more aged, who preferve their vivid countenance, and fo confirmed a ftate of health, as even to reach their eightieth year and upwards : this is common among all the clalTes of inhabitants. The fmgularity of the climate, in all probability, occafions the fingularity of fome of the diftempers which here affeft the human race ; and thefe may be confidered in two different lights ; one, as only attacking the Europeans newly landed, and the other, as common both to Creoles and Chapitones. Thofe of the firfl kind are, in the country, commonly called Chapetonadas, allud- ing to the name given there to the Europeans. Thefe diftempers are fo very deleterious, that they carry off a multitude of people, and thin the crews of European fhips; but they feldom laft above three or four days, in which time the patient is either dead or out of danger. The nature of this diftemper is but little known, being caufed in fome perfons by cold, and in others by indigeftion ; it foon brings on the vomito prieto, or black vomit, which is the fatal fymptom ; very few being ever known to recover. Some, when the vomit attacks them, are feized with fuch a delirium, that, were they not tied down, they would tear themfelves to pieces, and thus expire in the midft of their fu- rious paroxyfms. It is remarkable, that only the new-comers from Europe are fubjedt to this diftemper, and that the natives, and thofe who have lived fome time here, are never alFefted by it ; but enjoy an uninterrupted ftate of health, amidft the dreadful havock it makes among others. It is alfo obferved to rage more among the common feamen, than thofe who have been able to live on more wholefome food ; whence, fait meat has been confidered as pernicious in bringing on this diftemper, and that the humours it produces, together with the labour and hardfhips of the feamen, incline their blood to putrefadtion, and from this putrefaction the vomito prieto is fuppofed to have its origin. Not that the failors are its only vidlims, for even paffengers, who poflibly have not tafted any fait meat during the voyage, often feel its effe£ts. Another remarkable cir- cumftance is, that perfons who have been once in this climate are never after, upon their return again, fubjedt to this diftemper ; but enjoy the fame ftate of health with the natives, even though they do not lead the moft temperate lives. The inveftigation of the caufe of this ftrange diftemper ,has exercifed the attention of all the furgeons in the galleons, as well as the phyficians of the country ; and the refult of their refearches is, that they impute it to the food, labour, and hardfhips of the feamen. Doubtlefs thefe are collateral caufes ; but the principal queftion is, why per- fons exempt from thofe inconveniences, frequently die of the diftemper ? Unhappily, X X 2 after 34© ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. after all the experiments that have been made, no good method of treatment has been difcovered ; no fpecific for curing it, nor prefervative againft it. The fymptoms are fo vague, as fometimes not to be diftinguifhed from thofe of flight indifpofitions ; and though the vomit be the determinate fymptom, the fever preceding it is obferved to be very oppreffive, and extremely affefting to the head. This diftemper does not fhew itfelf immediately after the arrival of the European (hips in the bay, nor has it been long known here ; for what was formerly called Chape- tonades, were only indigeftions, which, though always dangerous in thefe climates, were, with little difficulty, cured by remedies prepared by the women of the country, and which are ftill ufed with fuccefs, efpecially if taken in the beginning. The Ihips after- wards going to Porto Bello, were there firfl attacked by this terrible difeafe, which has always been attributed to the inclemency of the climate, and the fatigue of the feamen in unloading the (hips, and drawing the goods during the fair. The vomito prieto was unknown at Carthagena and all along the coaft, till the years 1729 and 1730. In 1729, Don Domingo Juftiniani, commodore of the guarda coftas, loft fo confiderable a part of his lliips' companies at Santa Martha, that the furvivors were ftruck with aftonifhment and horror at the havock made among their comrades. In 1730, when the galleons under Don Manuel Lopez Pintado came to Carthagena, the feamen were feized with the fame dreadful mortality ; and fo fudden were the attacks of the difeafe, that perfons walking about one day, were the next carried to their graves. The inhabitants of Carthagena, together with thofe in the whole extent of its go- vernment, are very fubjefl: to the mal de San Lazaro, or leprofy, which feems ftill to gain ground. Some phyficians attribute the prevalence of it to pork, which is here a very common food ; but it may be objected, that in other countries, where this flefh is as frequently eaten, no fuch effects are feen, whence it evidently appears that fome latent quality of the climate muft alfo contribute to it. In order to ftop the contagion of this diftemper, there is without the city, an hofpital called San Lazaro, not far from the hill on which is a caftle of the fame name. In this hofpital all perfons of both fexes labouring under this diftemper are confined, without any diftinction of age or rank ; and if any refufe to go, they are forcibly carried thither. But here the diftemper in- creafes among themfelves, they being permitted to intermarry, by which means it is rendered perpetual. Befides, their allowance being here too fcanty to fubfift on, they are permitted to beg in the city ; and from their intercourfe with thofe in health, the number of lepers never decreafes, and is at prefent fo confiderable, that their hofpital refembles a little town. Every perfon at his entering this ftrufture, where he is to con- tinue during life, builds a cottage, called in the country Bujio, proportional to his ability, where he lives in the fame manner as before in his houfe, the prohibition of not going beyond the limits prefcribed him, unlefs to afk alms in the city, only excepted. The ground on which the hofpital ftands is furrounded by a wall, and has only one gate, and that always carefully guarded. Amidft all the inconveniences attending this diftemper, they live a long time under it, and fome even attain to an advanced age. It alfo greatly increafes the natural defire of coition, and intercourfe of the fexes ; fo that, to avoid the diforders which would refult from indulging this paifion, now almoft impofTible to be controlled, they are per- mitted to marry. If the leprofy be common and contagious in this climate, the itch and herpes are equally fo, efpecially among Europeans, who are not feafoned to the climate ; and, if neglefted in the beginning, it is dangerous to attempt a cure when cuftom has rendered 2 them ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 34 1 them natural. The remedy againft them, in the firfl: ftage, is a kind of earth called Maquimaqui, found in the neighbourhood of Carthagena, and, on the account of this virtue, exported to other parts. Another very fingular diftemper, though not fo common, is the cobrilla, or little fnake, being, as the moft (kilful think, a tumour caufed by certain malignant humours, fettled longitudinally between the membrane of the fkin, and daily increafing in length, till the fwelling quite furrounds the part affeded, which is ufually the arm, thigh, and leg ; though fometimes it has been known to fpread itfelf all over thefe parts. The external indications of it are, a round inflamed tumour, of the thicknefs of a quarter of an inch, attended with a flight pain, but not vehement, and a numbnefs of the part, which often terminates in a mortification. The natives are very flvilful in removing it by the following procefs : — They firfl: examine where (according to their phrafe) the head is, to which they apply a fmall fuppurative plafl:er, and gently foment the whole tumour with oil. The next day the fl^in under the plafler is found divided, and through the orifice appears a kind of white fibre, about the fize of a coarfe fewing thread ; and this, according to them, is the cobrilla's head, which they carefully fafl;en to a thread of filk, and wind the other end of it about a card, rolled up like a cyhnder. After this they repeat the fomentation with oil, and the following day continue to wind about the cylindric card the part of this fmall fibre which appears in fight. Thus they proceed till the whole is extrafted, and the patient entirely cured. During this opera- tion, their chief care is not to break the cobrilla ; becaufe, they fay, it would then caufe a humour to fpread through the body, and produce a great quantity of fuch little fnakes, as they will have them to be, when the cure would become extremely difficult. It is a current notion among them, that when it has, for want of care in the beginning, com- pleted the circle, and, according to them, joined its head with its tail, the difeafe gene- rally proves fatal. But this is very feldom the cafe ; the pain warning the patient im- mediately to apply a remedy, which fliould be accompanied with emollients for dif- perfing the humour. Thefe people firmly believe it to be a real cobrilla or fmall fnake, and accordingly have called it by that name. At its firfl; appearance, a fmall flow motion may indeed be perceived ; but this is foon over, and poflibly proceeds from the compreflion or extenfion of the nervous fibres which compofe it, without its having any animal life. I do not, however, pretend to determine abfolutely on this point. Befides thefe, another diftemper common in this country is the fpafm, or convulfion, which always proves mortal, and feldom comes alone. And of this 1 fliall fpeak when I defcribe other parts of America, where it is equally dangerous, and more common. CHAP. VI. — Defcription of the Country, and of the Trees mid Vegetables in the Neighbourhood of Carthagena. THE country about Carthagena is fo luxuriant, that it is impoflible to view, without admiration, the rich and perpetual verdure of the woods and plants it naturally pro- duces. But thefe are advantages of which the natives make little ufe ; their innate floth and indolence not allowing them to cultivate the gifts of nature, which feem to have been dealt out with a lavifli hand. The interwoven branches of the trees iorm a flielter impenetrable both to heat and light. The trees here are large and lofty, their variety admirable, and entirely different from thofe of Europe. The principal of thde for dimenfions are, the caobo or acajou, the cedar 342 ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. cedar, the maria, and the balfani tree. Of the firft are made the canoes and chain- panes ufed for fiftiing, and the coaft and river trade, within the jurifdiclion of this go- vernment. Thefe trees produce no eatable fruit ; but their wood is coiirpaft, fragrant, and beautiful. The cedar is of two kinds, white and reddiih ; but the laft mofl; efleem- ed. The maria and the balfam trees, befides the ufefulnefs of their timber, diftil thofe admirable balfams called Maria Oil, and Balfam of Tolu, fo called from a village in the neighbourhood of which it is found in the greateit quantit)', and of a peculiar excellency. Befides thefe trees, here are alfo the tamarind, the medlar, the fapote, the papayo, the guayabo, the cannafiftulo or calTia, the palm, the man9anillo, and feveral others, moft of them producing a wholefome and palatable fruit, with a durable and variegated wood. The man9anillo is particularly remarkable ; its name is derived from the Spanifli word Man9an, an apple, which the fruit of this tree exactly referables in fhape, colour, and flavour ; but contains, under this beautiiul appearance, fuch a fubtle poifon, that its efl'eils are perceived before it is tafled. The tree is large, and its branches form near the top a kind of crown ; its wood hard, and of a yellowifli tincl. On being cut, it ilTues out a white juice, but not unlike that of the fig-tree, lefs white, and of a thinner confiftence ; but equally poifonous with the fruit itfelf ; for if any happens to drop on any part of the flefli, it immediately caufes an ulcer and inflammation, and, unlefs fpeedy application be ufed, foon fprcads through all the other parts of the body * ; fo that it is neceflary, after felling it, to leave it till thoroughly dried, in order to its being worked without danger ; and then appears the beaut)- of this wood, which is exqui- fitely \"ariegated and veined like marble on its yellow ground. Upon tailing its fruit, the body immediately fwells, till the violence of the poifon, wanting fufficient room, burfts it ; as has been too fully confirmed by feveral melancholy inftances ot European failors who have been fent on fhore to cut wood. The fame unhappy confequence alfo attended great numbers of Spaniards at the conquefl of thefe countries, till, according to Herrera, common oil was found to be the powerful antidote to this fubtle poifon. But fuch is the malignity of the man^iuullo, that if a perfon happens to fleep under it, he is foon awaked, and finds his body fwelled almoll as if he had adually eaten the fruit t ; and continues in great danger and tortures, till relieved by repeated anointings and the ufe of cooling draughts. The very beads themfelves, by their natural inftind, are fo far from eating its fruit, that they never approach the tree. The palm-trees, rifmg with their tufted heads above the branches of the others, fotm a grand perfpeclive on the mountains. Thefe, notwirh (landing the difference is fcarce perceivable, are really of different kinds, as is evident from the diverfity of their fruit. They diitinguilh four prmcipal fpecies : the firll produce cocoa ; the fecond dates, of a very pleafant tafte ; the third, called Palma-real, whole fruit, though of the fame figure, but fomething lefs than the date, is not at all palatable, but has a very dif- agreeable tafle ; and the fourth, which they call corozo, has a fruit larger than dates, of an exquifite talle, and proper for making cooling and wholefome draughts. The palmitos, or branches of the palma-real, are agreeably tailed, and fo large, as fre- quently to weigh from two to three arrobas J. The other fpecies alfo produce them, * The juice dropping on the flefti generally caufes an inflammation ; but I do not remember ever to have feen an ulcer produced, or any very bad effeAs, the hot burning pain excepted. ^A. ■f" The author ii here mifinformed. Indeed perlons, who have flept under the tree, have afterwards complained of an head-ach. Thofe who happen to take (belter under it in a (hower, generally feel the fame effect, from the dropping of the leaves, as though the juice had dropt on them A. X The arroba is twenty-five pounds. but ulloa's vovage to south AMEnicA. 345 but neither in fuch plenty, nor fo fucculent. Palm-wine is alfo extracted from all the four; but that from the palmi-real and corozo is much the bed. The manner of making it, is either by cutting down the palm-tree, or boring a hole in the trunk, in which is placed a tap, with a vefl'el under it for receiving the liquor, which, after five or fix days fermentation, becomes fit for drinking. The colour of it is whitifli ; the tafle racy : it bears a greater head than beer, and is of a very inebriating quality. The natives, however, reckon it cooling, and it is the favourite liquor of the Indians and Negroes. The guaiacum and ebony trees are equally common ; and their hardnefs almofl equal to that of iron. Thefe fpecies of wood are fometimes carried into Spain, where they are greatly elteemed, but here they are difregarded from their great plenty. Among the variety of vegetables, which grow under the fhade of the trees, and along the funny borders of the woods, the moil common is the fenfitive ; on touching one of the leaves of which, all thofe on the fame branch immediately clofe againfl: each other. After a fliort interval, they begin gradually to open and feparate from each other, till they are entirely expanded. The fenfitive is a fniall plant about a foot and a half or two feet in height, with a flender ftem, and the branches proportionally weak and ten- der. The leaves are long, and fland fo clofe together, that all on one branch may be confidered as a fingle leaf, four or five inches in length, and ten lines in breadth j which, being fubdivided into the other ftill fmaller, forms in each of them the true leaf, which is about four or five lines in length, and not quite one in breadth. On touching one of thefe fmall leaves, all of them immediately quit their horizontal pofi- tion, and fly into a perpendicular direction, clofing their inward fuperficies, fo that thofe, which before this fenfitive motion made two leaves, now feem as but one. The vulgar name of this plant at Carthagena being improper to be mentioned here, we fhall omit it ; in other parts it is more decently called La Vergonoza, the bafliful, and La Don9ella, the maiden. The common people imagine that this effedl is caufed by pro- nouncing its name at the inftant of the touch ; and are amazed that a plant fhould have the wifdom of (hewing its obedience to what was ordered, or that it was too much affeded by the injury offered it to conceal its refentment. We afterwards met with this plant at Guayaquil, where the climate feems to be better adapted to it than that of Carthagena ; for it is not only more common, but grows to three or four feet in height, the leaves and every part in proportion. In the woods about Carthagena are found a great quantity of bejucos of a different magnitude, figure, and colour, and fome of the Items flat. One fpecies is particularly known on account of its fruit called Habilla de Carthagena, the bean of Carthagena. It is about an inch broad, and nine lines in length, flat, and in the Ihape of a heart. The fliell, though thin, is hard, and on the outfide fcabrous. It contains a kernel refembling an almond, but lefs white, and extremely bitter. This is one of the moft ettedlual antidotes known in that country againlt the bites of vipers and ferpents ; for a little of it being eaten immediately after the bite, it prefently flops the eftedls of the poifon ; and accordingly all who frequent the woods, either for felling trees or hunting, never fail to eat a little of this habilla fafl;ing, and repair to their work without any apprehenfion. I was informed by an European, who was a' famous hunter, and by feveral other perfons worthy of credit, that, with this precaution, if any one happened to be hit by a ferpent, it was attended with no ill conl'equence. The natives tell you, that, this habilla being hot in the higheft degree, much of it cannot be eaten ; that the common dofe of it is lefs than the fourth part of a kernel, and that no hot liquor, as wine, brandy, &c. mull be drunk immediately after taking it. In this cal'e, they 9 doubtlefs 344 ULLOa's voyage to south AMEIIICA. doubtlefs derive their knowledge from experience. This valuable habilla is ahb knowii in other parts of America near Carthagena, and goes every where by its name, as be- ing the peculiar produdt of its jurifdiction. CHAP. VII. — Of the Beajls, Birds, Reptiles, and Infers, in the Territories 0/ Carthagena, FROM the trees and plants in this jurifdidlion, we fliall proceed to the different kinds of animals ; fome of which are tame for the ufe and pleafure of its inhabitants ; others wild, and of fuch different qualities and kinds, as wonderfully difplay the diverfity which the Author of nature has Ihewn in the multitude of his works. The quadrupeds and reptiles frequent the dry and defert places, and are diflinguifhed by an endlefs variety of fpots, whilfl the vivid plumage of the feathered race glows with exquifite beauty ; and the brilliant fcales of another kind conceal the moft aftive poifons. The only tame eatable animals are the cow and the hog, of which there are great plenty. The beef, though not abfolutely bad, cannot be faid to be palatable. The conflant heat of the climate preventing the beafls from fattening, deprives their flefh of that fucculency it would otherwife have acquired : the pork is delicate, and allowed not only to be the befl in all America, but even to exceed any in Europe. This, which is the ufual food of Europeans and Creoles at Carthagena, befides its palatablenefs, is alfo looked upon to be fo wholefome, that even fick perfons are allowed it preferably to poultry, which is here very good, and in great abundance. I mull not omit a fmgular flratagem pradifed here for taking wild geefe, the extreme cheapnefs of which naturally inclined us to afk how they caught them in fuch quantities : in aiifwer to our queftion, we received the following account. Near Carthagena, to the eaftward of Monte de la Popa, is a large lake called La Cienega de Tefcas, abound- ing with fifh, but reckoned unwholefome. The water of this lake, communicating with the fea, is fait, but without increafe or decreafe, the difference of the tides here being infignificant. Every evening vaft flights of geefe retire hither from all the neighbour- ing countries, as their natural place of reft during the night. The perfons who catch thefe birds, throw into the lake about fifteen or twenty large calabafhes, which they call totumos ; and the geefe, being accuflomed to fee thefe calabafhes floating on the water, never avoid them. In three or four days the perfons return early in the morning to the lake, with another calabafh, having holes in it for feeing and breathing. This calabafh he places on his head, and walks in the water, with only the calabafh above the fur- face. In this manner, with all pofTible ftillnefs, he moves towards the geefe, pulling them under water with one hand, and then feizing them with the other. When he has thus taken as many as he is able to carry, he returns towards the fhore, and de- livers them to his companion, who waits for him at a certain diflaace in the water. This done, he renews his fport, either till he has taken as many as he defires, or the birds begin to difperfe over the country. Other perfons make it their bufinefs to procure diflerent kinds of game, as deer, rabbits, and wild boars, called here fajones ; but thefe are eaten only by the country Negroes and Indians, except the rabbits, which meet with a good market in the city. The wild beafls are alfo of various kinds ; as tigers, which make a great havock, not only among .the cattle, but among the human fpecies. Their fkin is very beautiful, and fome are as large as little horfes *. Here are alfo leopards, foxes, armadillos, a • They are not larger than mallifF dogs. A. kind ulloa's voyage to south ajterica. 345. kind of fcaly lizard ; ardillas, or fquirrels, and many others ; befides innumerable kinds of monkies living in the woods, fome remarkable for their fize, others for their colour. The artifice generally obferved by the fox, in defending itfelf againfl; dogs or other animals, by whom it is purfued, by voiding its urine on its own tail and fprink- ling it on them, effedually here anfwers the intention ; the fmell of it being fo ftrong and fetid, that it throws the dogs into diforder, and thus the fox efcapes. The flench of this urine is fo great, that it may be fmelt a quarter of a league from the place ; and very often for half an hour after. The fox here is not much bigger than a large cat j but delicately fhaped ; has a very fine coat, and of a cinnamon colour ; but no large brufh on its tail. The hair, however, is fpungy, and forms a bunch proper for the above-mentioned method of defence. Nature, which has furnifhed the fox with fuch an effeftual defence, has not forgot the armadillo, the name of which partly defcribes it. The fize of it is about that of a common rabbit, though of a very different fhape ; the fnout, legs, and tail, refembling thofe of a pig. His whole body is covered with a ftrong fhelj, which, anfwering ex- actly every where to the irregularities of its ftrufture, protefts it from the infults of other animals, without affefting its adlivity. Befides this, he has another, as a helmet, conne£led by a joint to the former ; this guards his head, and thus he is every way fafe. Thefe fhells are variegated with feveral natural relievos, as it were, in chiaro ofcuro,. fo that they are at once his defence, and a beautiful ornament. The Negroes and Indians, who eat its flefh, give a high character of it. Among the monkies of this country, the moft common are the micos, which are alfo the fmalleft. They are generally about the fize of a cat, of a brownifh colour ; and too well known to need any further defcription. The larger kind, which are lefs known, I fhall defcribe in another place. The birds feen in this hot climate are fo numerous, that it is impofTible to give a dif- tindl: reprefentation of them ; particularly of the beauty and brilliancy of their various plumage. The cries and croakings of fome, mixed with the warblings of others, dif- turb the pleafure which would flow from the melody of the latter, and render it impof- fible to diftinguifh the different cries of the former ; and yet in this inftance we may obferve the wifdom of Nature in diftributing her favour^ ; the plumage of thofe birds being the moft beautiful, whofe croakings are the moft ofFenfive ; while, on the other hand, thofe whofe appearance has nothing remarkable, excel in the fweetnefs of their notes. This is particularly evident in the guacamayo, the beauty and luftre of whofe colours are abfolutely inimitable by painting ; and yet there is not a more fhrill and dif- agreeable found than the noife it makes : this is in a great meafure common to all other birds, whofe bills are hard and crooked, and their tongue thicker than ufual, as the parrots, the cotorras, and the periquitos. All thefe birds fly in troops, fo that the air often founds with their cries. But of all the fingularities among the feathered race, nothing is more remarkable than the bill of the tulcan, or preacher. This bird is about the fize of a common pigeon, but its legs much larger ; its tail is fhort, and its plumage of a dark colour, but fpotted with blue, purple, yellow, and other colours ; which have a beautiful efFe£l on the dark ground. Its head is beyond all proportion to its body, but otherwife he would not be able to fupport his bill, which, firom the root to the point, is at leaft fix or eight inches, and the upper mandible has, at its root, a bafe of at leaft an inch and a half, of a triangular figure, whofe apex is at the point of the bill. The two lateral fuper- ficies form a kind of elevation on the upper part ; and the third receives the lower man. VOL. xrv, Y Y dible, 346 ULLOA's voyage to south AafERICA. dible, which clofes with the upper through the whole length ; fo that the two parts are every where perfeftly equal, and from their roof narrows infenfibly, till near the top, where it fuddenly becomes incurvated, and terminates in a ftrong and Iharp point. The tongue is formed like a feather, and of a deep red colour, like the whole infide of its mouth. The bill is variegated with all thofe bright colours * which adorn the plumage of other birds. At the bafe, and alfo at the convexity, it is generally of a light yellow, forming a kind of riband half an inch in breadth. The reft is of a fine deep purple, except two ftreaks near the root, of a rich fear- let, an inch diftant from each other. The inward flefhy parts, which touch when the bill is clofed, are furniflied with teeth, which form the furface of its two fer- rated mandibles. The name of Preacher has been given to this bird, from its cuftom of perching on the top of a tree above his companions, while they are afleep,. and making a noife refembling ill-articulated founds, moving his head to the right' and left, in order to keep oft the birds of prey from feizing on the others. They are eafily rendered fo very tame, as to run about in houfes, and come when called. Their ufual food is fruit ; but the tame eat other things, and in general whatever is given them. To defcribe ail the other extraordinary birds would engage me in a prolixity of little entertainment or ufe ; but I hope a word or two on the Gallinazos will be excufed. This bird is about the fize of a pea-hen, but the neck and head fomewhat larger. From the crop to the bafe of the bill, inftead of feathers, it has a wrinkled, glandulous and rough fkin, covered with fmall worts and tubercles. Its feathers are black, which is alfo the colour of its fkin, but ufually with fomething of a brownifh tind. Its bill is well proportioned, ftrong, and a little crooked. They are fo numerous and tame in the city, that it is not uncommon to fee the ridges of the houfes covered with them. They are alfo very ferviceable ; for they clean the city from all kinds of filth and ordure, greedily devouring any dead animal, and, when thefe are wanting, feek other filth. They have fo quick a fcent, that they will fmell at the diftance of three or four leagues * a dead carcafe, and never leave it till they have entirely reduced it to a fkeleton t. The infinite number of thefe birds found in fuch hot cUmates is an excellent provifion of Nature, as otherwife the putrefadion caufed by the conftant and excefTive heat would render the air infupportable to human life. At firft they fly heavily, but afterwards dart up out of fight. On the ground they hop along with a kind of torpor, though their legs are ftrong and well proportioned. They have three toes forward turning in- wards, and one in the infide, turned a little backwards ; fo that, the feet interfering, they cannot walk with any agility, but are obliged to hop or fkip. Each toe has a long and thick claw.. When the gallinazos find no food in the city, their hunger drives them into the country, among the beafts in the paflures ; and, on feeing any one with a fore on the back, they immediately alight on it, and attack the part affeded. It is in vain for the poor beaft to endeavour to free itfelf from thefe devourers, either by rolling on the ground, or hideous cries ; for they never quit their hold, but with their bills fo widen the wound that the creature foon expires. * The author (hould have faid miles. — A. f It is furprifing to fee v.'uat 1. Limbers of thefe birds gather round the carcafe of a dead whale, which is no uncommon thing on thefe coafts. The carcafe {hall be covered with them ; and yet their number (hall be nothing in comparifon to that hovering about, waiting forlhcir turn, for which they often fight. They are feldom above a fortnight in making a fkeleton of a large whale. — A. There ULLOA S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. 34^ There is another kind of gallinazos, fomewhat larger than thefe, only to be met with in the country. In fome of thefe the head and part of the neck are white, in fome red, and in others a mixture of both thefe colours. A little above the beginning of the crop, they have a ruff of white feathers. Thefe are equally fierce and carnivorous with the former, and called the kings of the gallinazos, probably becaufe the number of them is but few ; and it is obferved, that when one of thefe has faftened on a dead bead, none of the others approach till he has eaten the eyes, with which he generally begins, and is gone to another part, when they all flock to the prey. Bats are very common all over the country ; but Carthagena is infefled with fuch multitudes of them, that after fun-fet, when they begin to fly, they may, without any hyperbole, be faid to cover the flreets like clouds *. They are the mod dextrous bleeders both of men and cattle ; for the inhabitants being obliged, by the excefllve heats, to leave open the doors and windows of the chambers where they fleep, the bats get in, and if they happen to find the foot of any one bare, they infinuate their tooth into a vein, with all the art of the mod expert furgeon, fucking the blood till they are fatiated, and withdraw their tooth ; . after which the blood flows out at the orifice. I have been allured, by perfons of the flrideft veracity, that fuch 'an accident has happened to them ; and that, had they not providentially awaked foon, their fleep would have been their paflage into eternity, they having loft fo large a quantity of blood, as hardly to be able to bind up the orifice. The puncture not being felt is (befides the great precaution with which it is made) attributed to the gentle and refrefliing agitation of the air by the bat's wings, hindering the perfon from feeling this flight punfture by throw- ing hirn into a deeper fleep. Nearly the fame thing happens to horfes, mules, and affes, but beads of a thick and hard Ikin are not expofed to this inconveniency. We fliall next proceed to the infects and reptiles, in which nature has no lefs dif- played its infinite power. The great number of them is not only an inconvenience to the inhabitants, but health, and even life itfelf, often fuffers from the malignity of their poifon. The principal are the fnakes, the cientopes f, the fcorpions, and the fpiders ; of all which there are different kinds, and their poifons of different activity. Of the fnakes, the mod common, and at the fame time the mod poifonous, are the corales, or coral-fnakes, the cafcabeles, or rattle-fnakes, and the culebras de be- juco |. The fird are generally between four and five feet in length, and an inch in diameter. They make a very beautiful appearance, their fliin being all over va- riegated with a vivid crimfon, yellow, and green. The head is flat and long, like that of the European viper. Each mandible is furnlflie^ with a row of pointed teeth, through which, during the bite, they infinuate the poifon ; the perfon bit immediately fwells to fuch a degree, that the blood gufhes out through all the organs of fenfe, and even the coats of the veins at the extremities of the fingers burft, fo that he foon expires. The cai'cabel or rattle-faake feldom exceeds two feet, or two feet and a half in length; though there are fome of another fpecies, which are three and a half. Its col Ur is brovm, variegated with deeper fliades of the fame tinct ; at the end of its tail s the cafcabel or rattle, in the form of a garvanzo or French bean-pod, when dried on the plant, and, like that, has five or fix divifions, in each * They are altnolt as large as rats ; and the infide of the roofs of the out-houfes are generally lined with them. — A. f Or hundred feet. They are very common tliroughout the warmer regions of America. Common fait is a fpecific againft their bite, as alfo againft the iling of the fcorpion. — A. J They are called Cobras by the natives, which is their common name for all kinds of ferpents. — A. y Y 2 of 348 ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. of which are feveral fmall round bones ; thefe, at every motion of the fnake, rattle, and thence gave rife to its name. Thus nature, which has painted the coral fnake with fuch fhining colours, that it may be perceived at a diftance, has formed the latter m fuch a manner, that, as its colours render it difficult to diftinguifh it from the ground, the rattle might give notice of its approach. The culebras de bejuco, which are very numerous, have their name from their colour and Ihape refembling the branches of the bejuco, and, as they hang down from that plant, appear as real parts of the bejuco, till a too near approach unhappily dif- covers the miflake ; and, though their poifon be not fo a£live as that of the others, without a fpeedy application of fome fpecific, it proves mortal. Thefe remedies are perfectly known to the Negroes, Mulattos, and Indians frequenting the woods, and called curanderos. But the fafeft antidote is the habilla, already mentioned. It is not, however, often that thefe dangerous ferpents bite any one, unlefs, from inadvertence or defign, he has been the aggreflbr. Befides, they are fo far from havulg any extraordinary agility, that they are remarkably torpid, and, as it were, half dead ; fo that, were it not for their motion in retiring to hide themfelves among the leaves, it would be difficult to determine whether they were dead or alive. There are few parts of Europe which do not produce the cientopies or fcolopendra ; but at Carthagena they not only fwarm, but are of a monftrous fize, and the more dan- gerous, as breeding more commonly in houfes than in the fields. They are generally a yard in length, fome a yard and a quarter, the breadth about five inches, more or lefs, according to the length. Their figure is nearly circular, the back and fides covered with hard fcales, of a mufk colour, tinged with red ; but thefe fcales are fo articulated, as not in the leaft to impede their motion, and at the fame time fo ftrong as to defend them againft any blow, fo that the head is the only place where you can ftrike them to any purpofe. They are alfo very nimble, and their bite, without timely application, proves mortal ; nor is the patient free from confiderable torture, till the medicine has deflroyed the malignity of the poifon. The alacranes, or fcorpions, are not lefs common, and of different kinds, as black, red, mufk colour, and fome yellow. The firfl generally breed in dry rotten wood, and others in the corners of houfes, in clofets and cupboards. They are of different fizes, the largefl about three inches long, exclufive of the tail. The fling alfo of fome is lefs dangerous than that of others ; that of the black is reckoned the mofl malignant, though timely care prevents its being fatal. The flings of the other kinds produce fevers, numbnelTes in the hands and feet, forehead, ears, nofe and lips, tumours in the tongue, and dimnefs of fight ; thefe diibrders lafl generally twenty-four or forty- eight hours, when by degrees the patient recovers. The natives imagine, that a fcorpion falling into the water purifies it, and therefore drink it without any examina- tion. They are fo accuflomed to thefe infeds, that they do not fear them, but readily lay hold of them, taking care not to touch them only \r the lafl vertebrse of the tail, to avoid being flung ; fometimes they cut their tails oft md play with them. We more than once entertained ourfelves with an experiment i f putting a fcorpion into a glafs veffel, and injetling a little fmoke of tobacco, and in;mediately by flopping it found that its averfion to this fmell is fuch, that it falls into the mofl furious agitations, till giving itfelf feveral repeated flings on the head, it finds relief by dellroying itfelf. Hence we fee that its poifon has the fame effetl on itfelf as on otheis. Here is alfo another infecfl called caracol foldado, ©r the foldier-fnail. From the middle of the body. to the poflerior extremity it is fhaped like the common fnail, of a whitifh colour and a fpiral form : but the other half of the body refembles a crab, both in fize 9 and ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 349 and the difpofition of its claws. The colour of this, which is the principal part of its body, is of a light brown. The ufual length, exclufive of the tail, is about two inches, and the breadth one and a half. It is deftitute both of Ihell and fcale, and the body every where flexible. Its refource againft injuries is to feek a fnail-fhell of a proper fize, in which it takes up its habitation. Sometimes it drags this fnail-fhell with it, and at other times quits it, while it goes out in queft of food ; but on the leafl appear- ance of danger, it haifens back to the fhell, and thrufts itfelf into it, beginning with its hind part, fo that the fore part fills the entrance, while the two claws are employed in its defence, the gripe of which is attended with the fame fymptoms as the fling of a fcorpion. In both cafes the patient is carefully kept from drinking any water, which has been known to bring on convulfions ; and thefe always prove fatal. The inhabitants relate, that when this creature grows too large for making its way into the fhell which was its retreat, it retires to the fea coaft, in order to find there a larger, where killing the wilk, whofe fhell befl fuits him, he takes poffefTion of it j which is indeed the fame method it took to obtain its firft habitation. This lafl cir- cumflance, and the defire of feeing the form of fuch a creature, induced Don George Juan and myfelf to defire the inhabitants to procure us fome ; and upon examination, we found all the above-mentioned particulars were really true ; except the bite, which we did not choofe to experience. There are feveral other forts of infects remaining, which though fmaller, yet afford equal reafon for admiration to a curious examiner ; particularly the infinite variety of maripofas, or butterflies, which though differing vifibly in figure, colours, and deco- rations, we are at a lofs to determine which is the moft beautiful. If thefe.are fo entertaining to the fight, there are others no lefs troublefome ; fo fo that it would be more eligible to difpenfe with the pleafure of feeing the former, than to be continually tortured by the latter ; as the mofchetos, of which large clouds may be feen, efpecially among the favannahs and manglares, or plantations of mangrove trees, fo that the one, as affording the herbage on which they feed, and the other, as the places where they produce their young, are rendered impafTible. There are four principal fpecies of this infefl: ; the firft called zancudos, which are the largeft ; the fecond the mofchetos, differing little or nothing from thofe of Spain * ; the third gegenes, which are very fmall and of a different fhape, refembling the weevil, about the fize of a grain of multard-feed, and of an afh colour. The fourth are the mantas blancas, or white cloaks, and fo very minute that the inflammation of their bite is felt before the infeft that caufed it is feen. Their colour is known by the infinite numbers of them which fill the air, and from thence they had their name. From the two former, few houfes are free. Their fling is followed by a large tumour, the pain of which continues about two hours. The two laft, which chiefly frequent fields and gardens, raife no tumour, but caufe an infupportable itching. Thus if the extreme heat renders the day troublefome, thefe imperceptible infedts difturb the repofe of the night. And though the mofquiteros, a kind of gauze curtains, in fome meafure defend us from the three former, they are no fafeguard againft the latter, which make their way between the threads ; unlefs the fluff be of a clofer texture, in which cafe the heat becomes infupportable. The infect of Carthagena called nigua, and in Peru pique, is fhaped like a flea, but almofl too fmall for fight. It is a great happinefs that its legs have not the elaflicity with thofe of fleas j for could this infed leap, every animal body would be filled with * Or the gnat of England. A. them J 35° ULLOA S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. them ; and confequeiitly, both the brute and human fpecles be foon extirpated by the multitudes of theie infedts. They Uve amongfl the duft, and therefore are mofl com- mon in fihhy places. They infmuate themfelves into the legs, the foles of the feet, or toes, and pierce the Ikin with fuch fubtilty, that there is no being aware of them, till they have made their way into the flefh*. If they are perceived at the beginning, they are extrafted with little pain ; but if the head only has pierced through the (kin, an incifion muft be made before it can be taken out. If they are not foon perceived, they make their way through the fkin, and take up their lodgings between that and the membrane of the flelh ; and fucking the blood, form a nidus or neft, covered with a white and fine tegument, refembling a flat pearl : and the infeft is at it were, enchafed in one of the faces, with its head and feet outwards, for the convenience of feeding, while the hinder part of the body is within the tunic, where it depofits its eggs ; and as the number of thefe encreafes, the nidus enlarges, even to the diameter of a line and a hall, or two lines, to which magnitude it generally attains in four or five days. There is an abfolute neceflity for extrading it : for otherwife it would burft of itfelf, and by that means fcatter an infinite number of germs, refembling nits, in fize, fhape, and colour, which becoming niguas, would, as it were, undermine the whole foot. They caufe an extreme pain, efpecially during the operation of extratling them : for fometimes they penetrate even to the bone ; and the pain, even after the foot is cleared of them, lafts till the flelh has filled up the cavities they liad made, and the fkin is again clofed. The manner of performing this operation is both tedious and troublefome ; the flefh contiguous to the membrane where the eggs of the infect are lodged, is feparated with the point of a needle, and thofe eggs fo tenacioufly adhere to the flefh and this mem- brane, that to complete the operation without burfting the tegument, and putting the patient to the moft acute pain, requires the greateft dexterity. After feparating on every fide the fmall and almofi: imperceptible fibres, by which it was fo clofely con- nefted with the membranes and mufcles of the part, the perilla, as they term it, is extrafted, the dimenfions of which are proportional to the time it has exifted. If unfortunately it fliould burft, the greateft care muft be ufed to clear away all the roots, particularly not to leave the principal nigua ; as before the wound could be healed, there would be a new brood, further within the flefli ; and confequently the cure much more difficult and painful. The cavity left by the removal of the nidus, muft be immediately filled either with tobacco afhes, chewed tobacco, or fnuff; and in hot countries, as Carthagena, great care muft be taken not to wet the foot for the firft two days, as convulfions would enfue ; a diftemper feldom got over : this confequence has pofTibly been obferved in fome, and from thence confidered as general f. The firft entrance of this infeft is attended with no fenfible pain ; but the next day, it brings on a fiery itching extremely painful, but more fo in fome parts than in others. This is the cafe in extracting it, when the infeft gets between the nails and the flefh, or at the extremity of the toes. In the fole of the foot and other parts where the fkin is callous, they caufe little or no pain. This infeft fhows an implacable hatred to fome animals, particularly the hog ; which it preys on with fuch voracity, that when their feet come to be fcalded, after being killed, they are found full of cavities made by this corroding infed. * Tliey feldom infmuate themfelves into the legs. A. f There is no necefTity for this precaution, as is well known to the honell tar. The tobacco afhes, &c. entirely dellroy the nits or ovaria, if any be left. A. 2 Minute TO SOUTH AMERICA. 35 1 Minute as this creature is, there are two kinds of it ; one venomous, and the other not. The latter perfeftly refembles the flea in colour, and gives a whitenefs to the membrane where it depofits its eggs. This caufes no pain, but what is common in fuch cafes. The former is yellowifh, its nidus of ?.n afh colour, and its efFefts more extraordinary ; as when lodged at the extremity of the toes, it violently inflames the glands of the groin, and the pain continues without abatement, till the nigua is extra£l- ed, that being the only remedy : after which the fwelling fubfides, and the pain ceafes, thofe glands correfponding with the foot, where the caufe of the pain refided. The true caufe of this apparently ftrange effedl I fliall not undertake to invefliigate ; the gene- ral opinion is, that fome fmall mufcles extending from thefe glands to the feet, being affected by the poifon of the bite, communicate it to the glands, whence proceed the pain and inflammation. Ail I can affirm is, that I have often experienced it, and at lirfl: with no fmall concern ; till having frequently obferved that thefe efFeds ceafed on extracting the nigua, I thence concluded it to be the true caufe of the diforder. The fame thing happened to all the French academicians who accompanied us on this expe- dition ; , and particularly to M. de Juflieu, botanifl to the King of France, whom frequent experience of thefe kinds of accidents taught to divide thefe infefts into two kinds. As the preceding animals and infers chiefly exercife their malignant qualities on the human fpecies, fo there are others which damage and deflroy the furniture of houfes, particularly all kinds of hangings, whether of cloth, linen, filk, gold^r filver fl:ufl^s, or laces ; and indeed every thing, except thofe of folid metal, where their vo- racity feems to be wearied out by the refiitance. This infett called comegen, is nothing more than a kind of moth or maggot ; but fo expeditious in its depredatioas, that in a very fhbrt time it entirely reduces to dull one or more bales of merchandife where it happens to fafl:en ; and without altering the form, perforates it through and through, with a fubtilty which is not perceived till it comes to be handled, and then infliead of thick cloth or linen, one finds only fmall flireds and dufl:. At all times the ftrideft attention is requifite to prevent fuch accidents, but chiefly at the arrival of the galleons ; for then it may do immenfe damage among the vafl: quantity of goods landed for warehoufes, and for fale in the fliops. The befl:, and indeed the only method is, to lay the bales on benches, about half a yard from the ground, and to cover the feet of them with alquitran, or naphtha, the only prefervative againfl; this fpecies of vermin ; for with regard to wood, it eats into that as eafilv as into the goods, but will not come near it v^^hen covered with naphtha as above. Neither would this precaution be fufficient for the fafety of the goods, without a method of keeping them from touching the walls ; and then they are fufiiciently fe- cured. This infecl is fo fmall, as to be fcarcely vifible to the naked eye, but of luch activity as to defliroy all the goods in a warehoufe, where it has got footing, in one night's time. Accordingly it is ufual that in running the rifles of commerce, in goods configned to Carthagena, the circumftances are fpecified, and in thefe are underfl:ood to be included the loflTes that may happen in that city by the comegen. This infett infefl;s neither Porto Bello, nor even places nearer Carthagena, though they have fo many other things in common with that city ; nor is it fo much as known among them. What has been faid, will, I hope, be fufficient to give an adequate idea of this country, without fwelling the work with trivial obfervations, or fuch as have been already publifhed by others. We fhall now proceed to treat diftindtly of other equally wonderful works of Omnipotence, in this country. CHAP. 352 ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. CHAP. VIII. — Of the efculent Vegetables produced in the Territories of Carthagena, and the Food of the Inhabitants of that City. THOUGH Carthagena has not the convenience of being furnifhed by its foil with the different kinds of European vegetables, it does not want for others, far from being contemptible, and of which the inhabitants eat with pleafure. Even the Europeans, who at their firft coming cannot eafily take up with them, are not long before they like them fo well a? to forget thofe of their own country. The conftant moifture and heat of this climate will not admit of barley, wheat, and other grain of this kind ; but produces excellent maize and rice in fuch abundance, that a bufliel of maize fown, ufually produces an hundred at harveft. From this grain they make the bollo or bread, ufed in all this country ; they alfo ufe it in feeding hogs and fattening poultry. The maize bollo has no refemblance to the bread made of wheat, either in fhape or tafte. It is made in form of a cake ; is of a white colour, and an infipid tafte. The method of making it is to foak the maize, and afterwards bruife it between two ftones ; it is then put into large bins filled with water, where by rubbing and fhifting it from one veffel into another, they clear it from its huik ; after this it' is ground into a pafte, of which the bollos are made. Thefe bollos being wrapped up in plantane or vijahua leaves, are boiled in water, and ufed as bread ; but after twenty-four hours, become tough and of a difagreeable tafte. In families of diftinftion the bollo is kneaded with milk, which greatly im- proves it, but being not thoroughly penetrated by the liquids, it never rifes, nor changes its natural colour ; fo that inftead of a pleafing tafte, it has only that of the flour of maize, Befides the bollo * here is alfo the cafava bread, very common among the negroes, made from the roots of yuca, names, and moniatos. After carefully taking off" the upper fldn of the root, they grate it, and fteep it in water, in order to free it from a ftrong acrid juice, which is a real poifon, particularly that of the moniato. The water being feveral times ftiifted, that nothing of this acrimony may remain, the dough is made into round cakes about two feet diameter, and about three or four lines in thick- nefs. Thefe cakes are baked in ovens, on plates of copper, or a kind of brick made for that purpofe. It is a nourifliing and ftrengthening food, but very infipid. It will keep fo well, that at the end of two months it has the fame tafte as the firft day, except being more dry. Wl^eat bread is not entirely uncommon at Carthagena ; but, as the flour comes from Spain, the price of it may well be conceived to be above the reach of the generality. Accordingly it is ufed only by the Europeans fettled at Carthagena, and fome few Creoles ; and by thefe only with their chocolate and conferves. At all other meals, fo ftrong is the force of a cuftom imbibed in their infancy, they prefer bollos to wheat bread, and eat honey with cafava. They alfo make, of the flour of maize, feveral kinds of paftry, and a variety of foods equally palatable and wholefome j bollo itfelf being never known to difagree with thofe who ufe it. * Or cake made of mandioc yams, and fvveet potatoes (or camiotes), which they grate and mix toge- ther. The bollo is far from infipid, whan a proper quantity of the caraiote is put in. A, Befides ULLOa's voyage to south AJfERICA. 353 Befides thefe roots, the foil produces plenty of camiotes, refembling, in tafte, Malaga potatoes ; but fomething different in fhape, the camiotes being generally roundifh and uneven. They are both pickled and ufed as roots with the meat ; but, confidering the goodnefs and plenty of this root, they do not improve it as they might. Plantations of fugar-canes abound to fuch a degree, as extremely to lower the price of honey : and a great part of the juice of thefe canes is converted into fpirit for the difpofing of it. They grow fo quick as to be cut twice in a year. The variety of their verdure is a beautiful ornament to the country. Here are alfo great numbers of cotton-trees, fome planted and cultivated, and thefe are the befl ; others fpontaneoufly produced by the great fertility of the country. The cotton of both is fpun, and made into feveral forts of fluffs, which are worn by the Negroes of the Haciendas, and the country Indians. Cacao trees alfo grow in great plenty on the banks of the river Magdalena, and in other fituations which that tree delights in ; but thofe in the jurifdiftion of Carthagena excel thofe of the Caracas, Maracaybo, Guayaquil, and other parts, both in fize and the goodnefs of the fruit. The Carthagena cacao or chocolate is little loiown in Spain, being only fent as prefents ; for, as it is more efleemed than that of other countries, the greater part of it is confumed in this jurifdiction, or fent to other parts of America. It is alfo imported from the Caracas, and fent.,up the country, that of the Magdalena not being fufficient to anfwer the great demand there is for it in thefe parts. Nor is it amifs to mix the former with the latter, as corre£ling the extreme oilinefs of the choco- late, when made only with the cacao of the Magdalena. The latter, by way of dif- tinftion from the former, is fold at Carthagena by millares, whereas the former is dif- pofed of by the bufhel, each weighing one hundred and ten pounds ; but that of Mara- caybo weighs only ninety-fix pounds. This is the moft valuable treafure which Nature could have beftowed on this country ; though it has carried its bounty ftill farther, in adding a vafl number of delicious fruits which evidently difplay the exuberance of the foil. Nothing ftrikes a fpeftator with greater admiration, than to fee fuch a variety of pompous trees, in a manner emulating each other, through the whole year, in pro- ducing the mofl beautiful and delicious fruits. Some refemble thofe of Spain ; others are peculiar to the country. Among the former, fome are indeed cultivated, the latter flourilh fpontaneoufly. Thofe of the fame Idnd with the Spanifli fruits are melons, water-melons, called by the natives Blanciac, grapes, oranges, medlars, and dates. The grapes are not equal to thofe of Spain ; but the medlars as far exceed them : with regard to the reft, there is no great difference. , Among the fruits peculiar to the country, the -preference, doubtlefs, belongs to the pine-apple ; and accordingly its beauty, fmell, and tafle, have acquired it the appella- tion of queen of fruits. The others are the papayas, guanabanas, guayabas, fapotes, mameis, platanos, cocos, and many others, which it would be tedious to enumerate, efpecially as thefe ai'e the principal ; and, therefore, it will be fufficient to confine our defcriptions to them. The ananas or pine-apple, fo called from its refembling the fruit or the cones of the European pine-tree, is produced by a plant nearly refembling the aloe, except that the leaves of the pine-apple are longer, but not fo thick, and moft of them ftand near the ground in a horizontal pofition ; but as they approach nearer the fruit, they diminilh in length, and become lefs expanded. This plant feldom grows to above three feet in height, and terminates in a flower refembling a lily, but of fo elegant a crimfon, as even to dazzle the eye. The pine-apple makes its firft appearance in the centre of the VOL. XIV. z z flower, 354 ULLOA S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMEKICA. flower, about the fize of a nut ; and as this increafes, the luftre of the flower fades^ and the leaves expand themfelves to make room for it, and fecure it both as a bafe and ornament. On the top of the apple itfelf, is a crown or tuft of leaves, like thofe of the plant, and of a very Uvely green. This crown grows in proportion with the fruit, till both have attained their utmoil magnitude, and hitherto they differ very little in colour. But as foon as the crown ceafes to grow, the fruit begins to ripen, and its green changes to a bright flraw colour : during this gradual alteration of colour, the fruit exhales fuch a fiagrancy as difcovers it, though concealed from fight. While it continues to grow, it fhoots forth on all fides little thorns, which, as it approaches towards maturity, dry and foften, fo that the fruit is gathered without the leaft incon- venience. The fingularities which concentre in this product of nature, cannot fail of flriking a contemplative mind with admiration. The crown, which was to it a kind of apex, while growing in the woods, becomes itfelf, when fown, a new plant ; and the fl:em, after the fruit is cut, dies away, as if fatisfied with having anfvvered the intention of nature in fuch a produft ; but the roots flioot forth frefli ftalks, for the further in- creafe of fo valuable a fpecies. The pine-apple, though feparated from the plant, retains its fragrancy for a confider- able time, when it begins to decay. The odour of it not only fills the apartment where the fruit is kept, but even extends to the contiguous rooms. The general length of this delicious fruit is from five to feven inches, and the diameter near its bafis three or four, diminilhing regularly, as it approaches to its apex. For eating, it is peeled and cut into round flices, and is fo full of juice, that it entirely diffolves in the mouth. Its flavour is fweet, blended with a delightful acidity. The rind, infufed in water, after a proper fermentation, produces a very cooling liquor, and ftill retains all the proper- ties of the fruit. * The other fruits of this country are equally valuable in their feveral kinds ; and fome of them alfo diftinguifhed for their fragrancy, as the guayaba, which is, befides, both peftoral and aftringent. The mofl common of all are, the platanos, the name of which, if not its figure and tafte, is known in all parts of Europe *• Thefe are of three kinds. The firfl is the banana, which is fo large as to want but little of a foot in length. Thefe are greatly ufed, being not only eaten as bread, but alfo an ingredient in many made difhes. Both the Hone and kernel are very hard j but the latter has no noxious quality. The fecond kind are the dominicos, which are neither fo long nor fo large as the bananas, but of a better tafle ; they are ufed as the former. The third kind are the guineos, lefs than either of the former, but far more palatable^ though not reckoned fo wholefome by the natives, on account of their fuppofed heat. They feldom exceed four inches in length ; and their rind, when ripe, is yellower, fmoother, and brighter, than that of the two other kinds. The cuftom of the country is to drink water after eating them ; but the European failors, who will not be confined in their diet, but drink brandy with every thing they eat, make no difference between this fruit and any other ; and to this intemperance may, in fome meafure, be attributed the many difeafes with which they are attacked in this country, and not a few fudden deaths j which are, indeed, apt to raife, in the furvivors, concern for their companions for the * The plantane and banana are, I believe, little known in Europe by name. The firft two forts the Author dcfcribes, are better known by the names of the long and fhort plantane, and the laft by the name of banana, than by thofe he has given them. They have neither {lone nor kernel, but a very fmall feed, as fmall as that of thyme, which lies in the fruit in rows like that of a cucumber, to which the banana boars the greateft referablance of any thing in England ; only it is fmooth, and not fo large. A. prefent J ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 555 prefent ; but they foon return to the fame exceffes, not remembering, or rather choof- ing to forget, the melancholy confequences. By what we could difcover, it is not the quality of the brandy which proves fo per- nicious, but the quantity ; fome of our company making the experiment of drinking fparingly of this liquor after eating the guineos, and repeating it feveral times without the leaft inconvenience. One method of drefiing them, among feveral others, is to roaft them in their rind, and afterwards flice them, adding a little brandy and fugar to give them a firmnefs. In this manner we had them every day at our table, and thj Creoles themfelves approved of them. The papayas are from fix to eight inches in length, and refemble a lemon, except that, towards the ftalk, they are fomewhat lefs than at the other extremity. Their rind is green, the pulp white, very juicy, but ftringy, and the tafte a gentle acid, not pungent. This is the fruit of a tree, and not, like the pine-apple and platano, the pro- duct of a plant. The guayaba, and the following, are alfo the fruit of trees. The guanabana approaches very near the melon, but its rind is much fmoother, and of a greenifh colour. Its pulp is of a yellowifli caft, like that of fome melons, and not very different in tafte. But the greateft diftinftion between thefe two fruits is a naufeous fmell in the guanaba. The feed is round, of a fhining dark colour, and about two lines in diameter. It confifts of a very fine tranfparent pellicle, and a kernel folid and juicy. The fmell of this little feed is much ftronger and more naufeous. The natives fay, that, by eating this feed, nothing is to be apprehended from the fruit, which is otherwife accounted heavy and hard of digeftion ; but, though the feed has no ill tafte, the fto- mach is offended at its fmell. The fapotes are round, about two inches in circumference, the rind thin and eafily feparated from the fruit ; the colour brown, ftreaked with red. The flefli is of a bright red, with little juice, vifcid, fibrous, and compad. It cannot be claffed among deli- cious fruits, though its tafte is not difagreeable. It contains a few feeds, which are hard and oblong-. The mameis are of the fame colour with the fapotes, except that the brown is fome- thing lighter. Their rind alfo requires the alTiftance of a knife, to feparate it. The fruit is very much like the brunion plum, but more folid, lefs juicy, and, in colour, more lively. The ftone is proportioned to the largenefs of the fruit, which is betwixt three and four inches in diameter, almoft circular, but with fome irregularities. The ftone is an inch and a half in length, and its breadth, in the middle, where it is round, one inch. Its external furface is fmooth, and of a brown colour, except on one fide, where it is vertically croffed by a ftreak refembling the flice of a melon in colour and fliape. This ftreak has neither the hardnefs nor fmoothnefs of the reft of the furface of the ftone, which feems ,in this place covered, and fomething fcabrous. The coco is a very common fruit, and but little efteemed ; all the ufe made of it being to drink the juice whilft fluid, before it begins iQxurdle. It is, when firft gathered, full of a whitifli liquor, as fluid as water, very pleafant and refrelhing. The fliell which covers the cocoa nut, is green on the outfide, and white within ; full of ftrong fibres, traverfing it on all fides in a longitudinal diredion, but eafily feparated with a knife. The coco is alfo whitifli at that time, and not hard ; but, as the con- fiftency of its pulp increafes, the green colour of its ftiell degenerates into yellow. As foon as the kernel has attained its maturity, this dries and changes to brown ; then be- comes fibrous and fo compadl, as not to be eafily opened and feparated from the coco, z z 2 , to 356 ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. to which fome of thofe fibres adhere. From the pulp of thefe cocos is drawn a milk, like that of almonds, and, at Carthagena, is ufed in dreffing rice. Though lemons, of the kind generally known in Europe, and of which fuch quan« tities are gathered in fome parts of Spain, are very fcarce ; yet there are fuch numbers of another kind, called futlles or limes, that the country is, in a manner, covered with the trees that produce them, without care or culture. But the tree and its fruit are both much lefs than thofe of Spain, the height of the former feldom exceeding eight or ten feet ; and from the bottom, or a little above, divides into feveral branches, whofe regular expanfion forms a very beautiful tuft. The leaf, which is of the fame fhape with that of the European lemon, is lefs, but fmoother ; the fruit does not exceed a common egg in magnitude ; the rind very thin ; and it is more juicy, in proportion, than the lemon of Europe, and infinitely more pungent and acid ; on which account, the European phyficians pronounce it detrimental to health ; though, in this country, it is a general ingredient in their made difhes. There is one fingular ufe to which tWs fruit is applied in cookery. It is a cuftom with the inhabitants not to lay their meat down to the fire above an hour at fartheft, before dinner or fupper ; this is managed by fteeping it for fome time in the juice of thefe limes, or fqueezing three or four, accord- ing to the quantity of meat, into the water, if they intend boiling ; by which means, the flelh becomes fo foftened, as to admit of being thoroughly drelTed in this fliort fpace. The people here value themfelves highly on this preparative, and laugh at the Europeans for fpending a morning about what they difpatch fo expeditioufly. This country abounds in tamarinds ; a large branchy tree, the leaf of a deep green ; the pods of a middle fize, and flat ; the pulp of a dark brown, a pleafant tafte, very fibrous, and is called by the fame name as the tree itfelf. In the midcMe of the pulp is a hard feed, or ftone, fix or eight lines in length, to two in breadth. Its tafte is an acid fweetnefs, but the acid predominates ; and it is only ufed when diflblved in water as a cooling liquor, and then but moderately, and not for many days fucceffively ^ its acidity and extreme coldnefs weakening and debilitating the ftomach. Another fruit, called mani, is produced by a fmall plant. It is of the fize and fhape of a pine-cone ; and eaten either roafted, or as a conferve. Its quality is direftly oppo- fite to that of the former, being hot in the higheft degree ; and, confequently, not very wholefome in this climate. The products which are not natural here, befides wheat, barley, and other grain, are grapes, almonds, and olives : confequently the country is deftitute of wine, oil, and raifins, with which they are fupplied from Europe : this neceflarily renders them very dear ; fometimes they are not to be had at any price. When this is the cafe with regard to wine, great numbers fuffer in their health ; for, as all thofe who do not ac- cuftom themfelves to drink brandy at their meals, which are far the greater number, except the Negroes, being ufed to this wine, their ftomach, for want of it, lofes their digeftive faculty, and thence are produced epidemical diftempers. This was an un- happy circumftance at our arrival, when wine wgis fo extremely fcarce, that mafs was faid only in one church. The want of oil is much more tolerable ; for, in dreffing either fifti or flefli, they ufe hog's lard, of which they have fo great a quantity, as to make it an ingredient in their foup, which is very good, and, confidering the country, not at all dear : inftead of lamps too, they ufe tallow candles : fo that they want oil only for their falads. From fuch plenty of flefti, fowl, and fruits, an idea may be formed of the luxuriancy of the tables in this country ; and, indeed, in the houfes of perfons of wealth and dif- tinction, tliey are ferved with the greateft decency and fplendour. IVIoft of the difhes 9 are ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 357 are drefled in the manner of this country, and differ confiderably from thofe of Spain ; but fome of them are fo delicate, that foreigners are no lefs pleafed with them, than the gentlemen of the country. One of their favourite difhes is the agi-aco, there being fcarcely a genteel table without it. It is a mixture of feveral ingredients, which cannot fail of making an excellent ragout. It confifts of pork fried, birds of feveral kinds, plantanes, maize pafte, and feveral other things highly feafoned with what they call pimento, or aji. The inhabitants of any figure generally make two meals a-day, befides another light repaft. That in the morning, their breakfaft, is generally compofed of fome fried difli, paftry of maize flour, and things of that nature, followed by chocolate. Their dinner confifts of a much greater variety ; but at night the regale is only of fweetmeats and chocolate. Some families, indeed, afieft the European cuftom of having regular fuppers, though they are generally looked upon at Carthagena as detrimental to health. We found, however, no difference as to ourfelves ; and, poffibly, the ill effects flow from excels in the other raeals. CHAP. IX. — Of the Trade of Carthagena, and other Countries of America, on the Arrival of the Galleons and other Spanijh Ships. THE bay of Carthagena is the firft place in America at which the galleons are allowed to touch ; and thus it enjoys the firft fruits of commerce, by the public fales made there. Thefe fales, though not accompanied with the formalities obferved at Porto Bello fair, are very confiderable. The ti'aders of the inland provinces of Santa Fe, Popayan, and Quito, lay out not only their own ftocks, but alfo the monies in- trufted to them by commiflions, for feveral forts of goods, and thofe fpecies of provi- fions which are moft wanted in their refpeftive countries. The two provinces of Santa Fe and Popayan have no other way of fupplying themfelves with the latter, than from Carthagena. Their traders bring gold and filver in fpecie, ingots, and duft, and alfo emeralds ; as, befides the filver mines worked at Santa Fe, and which daily increafe by frelh difcoveries, there are others which yield the fineft emeralds. But the value of thefe gems being now fallen in Europe, and particularly in Spain, the trade of them, formerly fo confiderable, is now greatly lefllened, and, confequently, the reward for finding them. All thefe mines produce great quantities of gold, which is carried to Choco, and there pays one-fifth to the King, at an office erefted for that purpofe. This commerce was for fome years prohibited, at the folicitation of the merchants of Lima, who complained of the great damages they fuftained by the tranfportation of European merchandifes from Quito to Peru ; which being thus furnifhed, while the traders of Lima were employed at the fairs of Panama and Porto Bello, at their return, they found, to their great lofs, the price of goods very much lowered. But it being afterwards confidered, that reftraining the merchants of Quito and other places from purchafing goods at Carthagena, on the arrival of the galleons, was of great detriment to thofe provinces, it was ordered, in regard to both parties, that, on notice being given in thofe provinces, of the arrival of the galleons at Carthagena, all commerce, with regard to European commodities, fhould ceafe between Quito and Lima, and that the limits of the two audiences fhould be thofe of their commerce : that is, that Quito fhould not trade beyond the territories of Loja and Zamora ; nor Lima, beyond thofe of Piura, one of the jurifdiflions of its audience. By this equitable expedient, thofe provinces were, in time, fupplied with the goods they wanted, without any detriment ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. 3S« to the trade of Peru. This regulation was firfl: executed in 1730, on the arrival of the fquadron commanded by Don Manuel Lopez Pintado, who had orders, from the King, to place commerce on this footing, provided it bid fair to anfwer the intentions of both parties, and that no better expedient could be found. Accordingly this was carried into execution ; being not only well adapted to the principal end, but alfo, during the ftay of the galleons at Carthagena, procured bufmefs for the Cargadores *, in the fale of their goods ; and thus made them ample amends for their expences. During the prohibition, the merchants of Carthagena were obliged to have recourfe to the flotilla of Peru, in their courfe from Guayaquil to Panama ; or to wait the return of the galleons to Carthagena, and, confequently, purchafe only the refufe of Porto Bello fair ; both which were, doubtlefs, confiderable grievances to them. If they pur- fued the firft, they were obliged to travel acrofs the whole jurifdiftion of Santa Fe to Gua- yaquil, which was a journey of above four hundred leagues, with confiderable fums of money, which having difpofed of in merchandifes, the charges of their return were ftill greater. In fine, the loffes inevitable in fuch a long journey, where rapid rivers, moun- tains, and bridges, were to be crofled, and their merchandifes expofed to a thoufand accidents, rendered this method utterly imprafticable ; fo that they were obliged to content therafelves with the remains of the fair ; though it was very uncertain whether thefe would be fufficient to anfwer the demand. Befides, the inland merchants ran the hazard of not meeting at Carthagena with goods fufficient, in quality and quantity, to anfwer their charges ; and were fometimes adlually obliged to return with the money, and the vexation of a fruitlefs, though expenfive, journey. Thefe inconveniences pro- duced a repeal of the prohibition, and commerce was placed on the prefent equitable footing. This little fair at Carthagena, for fo it may be called, occafions a great quantity of fiiops to be opened, and filled with all kinds of merchandife ^ the profit partly refulting to Spaniards who come in the galleons, and are either recommended to, or are in part- nerfhip with, the Cargadores ; and partly to thofe already fettled in that city. The Cargadores furnifh the former with goods, though to no great value, in order to gain their cuftom ; and the latter, as perfons whom they have already experienced to be good men ; and both in proportion to the quicknefs of their fale. This is a time of univerfal profit ; to fome by letting lodgings and fliops, to fome by the increafe of their refpedtive trades, and to others by the labour of their Negro flaves, whofe pay alfo is proportionally increafed, as they do more work in this bufy time. By this brilk circu- lation through all the feveral ranks, they frequently get a furplus of money beyond what is fufficient for providing themfelves with neceiTaries. And it is not uncommon for flaves, out of their favings, and after paying their mailers the daily tribute, to pur- chafe their freedoms. This affluence extends to the neighbouring villages, eftancias, and the mofl: wretched chacaras, of this jurifdiction ; for, by the increafe of ftrangers to a fourth, third, and fometimes one-half, of the ufual number of people, the confumption, and confequently the price of provifions, advances, which is, of courfe, no fmall advantage to thofe who bring them to market. This commercial tumult lafts while the galleons continue in the bay ; for they are no fooner gone, than filence and tranquillity refume their former place. This the inha- bitants of Carthagena call Tiempo muerto, the dead time ; for, with regard to the trade carried on with the other governments, it is not worth notice. The greater part of it * Perfons who bring European goods for fale. confifts ULLOA S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. 35gf confifts in fome bilanders from La Trinidad, the Havannah, and St, Domingo, bring- ing leaf-tobacco, fnuft", and fugars ; and returning with Magdalena cacao, earthen- ware, rice, and other goods wanted in thofe iflands : and even of thefe fmall veffels, fcarcely one is feen for two or three months. The fame may be faid of thofe w hich go from Carthagena to Nicaragua, Vera Cruz, Honduras, and other parts : but the mofl fre- quent trips are made to Porto Bello, Chagra, or Santa Martha. The reafon why this commerce is not carried on more brifkly is, that moft of thefe places are naturally pro- vided with the fame kind of provifions, and confequently are under no neceffity of traf- ficking with each other. Another branch of the commerce of Carthagena, during the tiempo muerto, is carried on with the towns and villages of its jurifdidtion, from whence are brought all kinds of neceflaries, and even the luxuries of life, as maize, rice, cotton, live hogs, tobacco, plantanes, birds, cafava, fugar, honey, and cacao, mofl of which is brought in canoes and champanas, a fort of boats proper for rivers. The former are a kind of coafters, and the latter come from the rivers Magdalena, Sinu, and others. Their re- turns confift of goods for apparel, with which the Ihops and warehoufes furnifli them- felves from the galleons, or from prizes taken on the coafl: by the King's frigates, or privateers. No eatable pays any duty to the King ; and every perfon may, in his own houfe, kill any number of pigs he thinks he Ihall lell that day : no faked pork is eaten, be- caufe it is foon corrupted by the exceffive heat of the place. All imports from Spain, as brandy, wine, oil, almonds, raifins, pay a duty, and are afterwards fold without any farther charge, except what is paid by retailers, as a tax for their fliop or ftall. Befides thefe goods, which keep alive this flender inland commerce, here is an office for the afTiento of Negroes, whither they are brought, and, as it were, kept as pledges, till fuch perfons as want them on their eftates come to purchafe them, negroes being generally employed in hufbandry and other laborious country works. This, • indeed, gives fome lite to the trade of Carthagena, though it Is no weighty article. The produce of the royal revenues in this city not being fufEcient to pay and fupport the governor, garrifon, and a great number of other officers, the deficiency is remitted from the treafurers of Santa Fe and Quito, under the name of Situado, together with fuch monies as are requifite for keeping up the fortifications, furnlfhing the artillery, and other expences, neceifary for the defence of the place and its forts. BOOK 11. Voyage from Carthagena to Porto Bello. CHAP. I. — General Winds and Currents between Carthagena and Porto Bello. "\I7HEN the French frigate had watered, and was ready for failing, we embarked on * '' board her, on the 34th of Novem.ber 1735 ; the next day we put to fea, and on the 29th of the fame month, at half an hour after five in the evening, came to an anchor I J at 360 ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. at the mouth of Porto Bello harbour, in fourteen fathom water ; Caftle Todo Fierro, or the iron caftle, bearing north-eaft four degrees northerly ; and the fouth point of the harbour eaft one quarter northerly. The difl'erence of longitude between Carthagena and Punta de Nave, we found to be 4" 24'. We had fteered weft-north-weft and weft one quarter northerly, till the fliip was ob- ferved to be in the eleventh degree of latitude, when we ftood to the weft. But when our difference of longitude from Carthagena was 3'' 10', we altered our courfe to fouth- weft and fouth, a quarter wefterly, which, as already obferved, on the 29th of Novem- ber, at five In the evening, brought us in fight of Punta de Nave, which being fouth of us, we were obliged to make feveral tacks before we could get into the harbour. In this paflage we met with frefli gales. The two firft days at north quarter eafterly, and the other days till we made the land at north-eaft, a high fea running the whole time. But we were no fooner in fight of Punta de Nave, than it became calm, and a breeze from the land fprung up, which hindered us from getting that day into the har- bour. It alfo continued contrary on the 3cth ; but, by the help of our oars, and being towed, we got at laft to the anchoring-place, where we went on ftiore, -ttith our bag- gage and inftruments neceftar)' for beginning our obfervadons. But this being the moft proper place for mentioning the winds which prevail in this paflage along the coaft, and that of Carthagena, we fliall beftow fome paragraphs on them. There are two forts of general winds on thefe coafts ; the one called Brifas, which blow from the north-eaft, and the other called Vendabales, which come from the weft, and weft-fouth-weft. The former fet in about the middle of November, but are not fettled till the beginning or middle of December, which is here the fummer, and con- tinue blowing frefti and invariable till the middle of May ; they then ceafe, and are fuc- ceeded by the vendabales, but \vith this difference, that thefe do not extend farther than 12 or 12-1- degrees of latitude, beyond which the brifas conftantly reign, though with different degrees of ftrength, and veer fometimes to the eaft, and at other rimes to the north. The feafon of the vendabales is attended with violent ftorms of wind and rain ; but they are foon over, and fucceeded by a calm equally tranfitory ; for the \%-ind gradually frefhens, efpecially near the land, where thefe phenoma are more frequent. The fame happens at the end of October and beginning of November, the general winds not being fettled. In the feafon of the brifas, the currents, as far as 12'' or 12^ 30' of latitude, fet to the weftward, but with lefs velocity than ufual at the changes of the moon, and greater at the fulL But beyond that latitude they ufually fet noith-weft. Though this muft not be underftood without exception ; as, for inftance, near iflands or llioals, their courfe becomes irregular : fometimes they flow through long channels, and fometimes they are met by others ; all which proceeds from their feveral directions, and the bearings of the coafts ; fo that the greateft attention is neceffary here, the general accounts not being fufficient to be relied on ; for, though they have been given by pilots who have for twenty or thirty years ufed this navigation, in all kinds of veffels, and therefore have acquired a thorough knowledge, they themfelves confefs that there are places where the currents obferve no kind of regularity, like thofe we have mentioned. When the brifas draw near their period, which is about the beginning of April, the currents change their courfe, running to the eaftward for eight, ten, or twelve leagues from the coaft, and thus continue during the whole feafon of the vendabales ; on which account, and the winds being at this feafon contrary for going from Cartha- gena to Porto Bello, it is neceffary to fail to twelve or thirteen degrees of latitude, or even ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. 361 even fometimes farther ; when being without the verge of thofe winds, the voyage is eafily performed. While the brifas blow ftrongeft, a very impetuous current fets into the gulf of Darien, and out of it during the feafon of the vendabales. This fecond change proceeds from the many rivers which difcharge themfelves into it, and at that time being greatly fwelled by the heavy rains, peculiar to the feafon ; fo that they come down with fuch rapidity, as violently to propel the water out of the gulf. But in the feafon of the brifas thefe rivers are low, and fo weak, that the current of the fea overcomes their refillance, fills the gulf, and returns along the windings of the coaft. CHAP. II. — Defcr'tption of the Town of St. Philip de Porto Belh. THE town of St. Philip de Porto Bello, according to our obfervations, ftands in 9' 34' 35' iiorth latitude;' and by the obfervations of Father Feuillee, in the longitude of 277" 50' from the meridian of Paris, and 296^41' from the Pico of TenerifFe. This harbour was difcovered on the 2d of November 1502 by Chriftopher Columbus, who was fo charmed with its extent, depth, and fecurity, that he gave it the name of Porto Bello, or the fine harbour. In the profecution of his difcoveries, he arrived at that which he called Baftimentos, where, in 1510, was founded by Diego de Niqueza the city of Nombre de Dios, " the Name of God ;" fo called from the commander having faid to his people on their landing, " Here we will make a fettlement in the name of God," which was accordingly executed. But this place was in its infancy entirely deftroyed by the Indians of Darien. Some years after, the fettlement was repaired, and the inhabitants maintained their ground till 1584, when orders arrived from Philip II. for their removing to Porto Bello, as much better fituated for the commerce of that country. Porto Bello was taken and plundered by John Morgan, an Englifh adventurer, who infefled thofe feas ; but in confideration of a ranfom, he fpared the forts and houfes. The town of Porto Bello Hands near the fea, on the declivity of a mountain which furrounds the whole harbour. Moft of the houfes are built of wood. In fome the firft ftory is of flone, and the remainder of wood. They are about one hundred and thirty in number ; moft of them large and fpacious. The town is under the jurif- diftion of a governor, with the title of lieutenant-general ; being fuch under the pre- fident of Panama, and the term of his poft is without any fpecified limitation. He is always a gentleman of the army, having under him the commandants of the forts that defend the harbour ; whofe employments are for Hfe. It confifts of one principal ftreet, extending along the ftrand, with other fmallar croffing it, and running from the declivity of the mountain to the fhore, together with fome lanes, in the fame direftion with the principal ftreet, where the ground admits of it. Here are two large fquares, one oppofite to the cuftom-houfe, which is a ftructure of ftone, contiguous to the quay ; the other oppofite the great ghurch, which is of ftone, large, and decently ornamented, confidering the fmallnefs of the place. It is ferved by a vicar and other priiefts, natives of the country. Here are two other churches, one called Nueftra Sigjiora de la Merced, with a con- vent of the fame order ; the other St, Juan de Dios ; which, though it bears the title of an hofpital, and was founded as fuch, is very far from being fo in reality. The church of La Merced is of ftone, but mean and ruinous, like the convent, which is vol,, xrv. 3 A alfo 362 ulloa's voyage to south a:merica. alfo decayed : fo that wanting the proper conveniences for the religious to refide in, they live in the t;own difperfed in private houfes. That of St. Juan de Dios is only a fmall building like an oratory, and not in better condition than that of La Merced. Its whole community confiils of a prior, chaplain, and another religious, and fometimes even of lefs : fo that its extent is very fmall, fince properly fpeaking, it has no community : and the apartments intended for the reception of patients confifls only of one chamber, open to the roof, without beds or other neceflaries. Nor are any admitted but fuch as are able to pay for their treatment and diet. It is therefore of no advantage to the poor of the place ; but ferves for lodging fick men belonging to the men of war vi-hich come hither, being provided with neceflaries from the fhips, and attended by their refpeclive furgeons, lodging-room being the only thing afforded them by this nominal hofpital. At the eafl end of the town, which is the road to Panama, is a quarter called Gui- ney, being the place where all the negroes of both fexes, whether flaves or free, have their habitations. This quarter is very much crov/ded when the galleons are here, moft of the inhabitants of the town entirely quitting their houfes for the advantage of letting them, while others content themfelves with a fmall part in order to make money of the reft. The mulattos and other poor families alfo remove, either to Guiney, or to cottages already erefted near it, or built on this occafion. Great numbers of arti- ficers from Panama likcwife, who flock to Porto Bello to work at their refpeftive callings, lodge in this quarter for cheapnefs. Towards the fea, in a large track between the town and Gloria caftle, barracks are alfo erected, and principally filled with the {hips' crews ; who keep ftalls of fweetmeats, and other kinds of eatables brought from Spain. But at the conclufion of the fair, the (hips put to fea, and all thefe buildings are taken down, and the town returns to its former tranquillity and emptinefs. By an experiment we made with the barometer in a place a toife above the level of the fea, the height of the mercury was twenty-feven inches eleven lines and a half. CHAP. III. — Dcfcripiion of Porto Bello Harbour. THE name of this port indicates its being commodious for all forts of Ihips or veflels, great or fmall ; and though its entrance is very wide, it is well defended by Fort St. Philip de Todo Fierro. It ftands on the north point of the entrance, which is about fix hundred toifes broad, that is, a little lefs than the fourth part of a league ; and the fouth fide being full of rifes of rocks, extending to fome diflance from the fhore, a fliip is obliged to ftand to the north, though the deepeft part of the channel is in the middle of the entrance, and thus continues in a ftraight direction, having nine, ten, or fifteen fathom water, and a bottom of clayey mud, mixed with chalk and fand. On the fouth fide of the harbour, and oppofite to the anchoring-place, is a large caftle, called Saint Jago de la Gloria, to the eaft of which, at the diftance of about one hundred toifes, begins the town, having before it a point of land projecting into the harbour. On this point ftood a fmall fort called St. Jerome, \vithin ten toifes of the houfes. All thefe were demoliftied by the Englifli admiral Vernon, who with a numerous naval force *, in 1739, made himfelf mafter of this port; having found it * The numerous naval force mentioned by our author, confifted we know of fix (hips only. fo ulloa's voyage to south ameuica. ^6^ fo unprovided with every thing, that the greater part of the artillery, efpe-cially that of the caflle de Todo Fierro, or iron caflle, was difmounted for want of carriages, part of the few military ftores unferviceable, and the garrifon (hort of its complement even in time of peace. The governor of the city, Don Bernardo Gutierrez de Boca- negra, was alfo abfent at Panama, onfome accufation brought againfl; him. Thus the Engliih meeting no refiftance, eafily fucceeded in their deiign upon this city, which furrendered by capitulation. The anchoring-place for the large fhips is north-well of Gloria caftle, which is nearly the centre of the harbour ; but lefler vefl'els which come farther up, mull be careful to avoid a fand-bank, lying one hundred and fifty toifes from St. Jerome's fort, or point, bearing from it weft one quarter northerly ; and on which there is only a fathom and a half, or at moft, two fathom water. North-weft of the town is a little bay, called la Caldera, or the kettle, having four fathom and a half water ; and is a very proper place for careening fhips and veffels, as, befides its depth, it is perfedly defended from all winds. In order to go into it, you muft keep pretty clofe to the weftern ihore till about a third part of the breadth of the entrance, where you will have five fathom water (whilft on the eaftern fide of the fame entrance, there is not above two or three feet), and then fteer diredly towards the bottom of the bay. When the fhips are in, they may moor with four cables eaft and weft, in a fmall bafon formed by the Caldera ; but care muft be taken to keep them always on the weftern fide. North-eaft of the town is the mouth of a river called Cafcajel, which affords no frefh water within a quarter of a league or upwards from its mouth ; and it is not ucom- mon to fee in it Caymanes, or alligators. The tides are here irregular ; and in this particular, as well as that of the winds, there is no difference between this harbour and that of Carthagena ; except that here the ihips nmft always be towed in, being either becalmed, or the wind diredly againft them. From obfervations we made, both by the pole-ftar and the fun's azimuth, we found the variation of the needle in this harbour to be 8° 4' eafterly. Among the mountains which furround the whole harbour of Porto Bello, beginning from St. Philip de Todo Fierro, or the iron caftle (which is fituated on their declivity), and without any decreafe of height, extends to the oppolite point, one is particularh' remarkable for its fuperior loftinefs, as if defigned to be the barometer of the countr}', by foretellmg every change of weather. This mountain, diftinguilhed by the name of Capiro, ftands at the utmoft extremity of the harbour, in the road to Panama. Its top is always covered with clouds of a denfity and darknefs feldom feen in thofe of this atmofphere ; and from thefe, which are called the capillo or cap, has poflibly been corruptly formed the name of Monte Capiro. "When thefe clouds thicken, increafe their blacknefs, and fink below their ufual ftation, it is a fure fign of a tempeft ; while on the other hand, their clearnefs and afcent as certainly indicate the approach of fair weather. It n^uft however be remembered, that thefe changes are very frequent and very fudden. It is alfo feldom that the fummit is ever obferved clear from clouds ; and when this does happen, it is only as it were, for an inftant. The jurifdiction of the governor of Porto Bello is limited to the town and the forts ; the neighbouring country, over which it might be extended, being full of mountains covered with impenetrable forefts, except a few vallies, in which are thinly fcattered fome farms or Aaciendas ; the nature of the country not admitting of farther improve- ments. 3 A 2 CHAP. .3^4 ULLOa'S VOYAGK to south AMERICA. CHAP. IV. — Of the Climate of Porto Bella, and the Dijiempcrs which prove fo fatal to the Crews of the Galleons. THE inclemency of the climate of Porto Bello is fufficiently known all over Europe. Not only Grangers who come thither are affeded by it, but even the native* themfelves fuffer in various manners. It deftroys the vigour of nature, and often untimely cuts the thread of life. It is a current opinion, that formerly, and even not above twenty years fmce, parturition was here fo dangerous, that it was feldom any women did not die in child-bed. As foon therefore as they had advanced three or four months in their pregnancy, they were fent to Panama, where they continued till the danger of deli- very was pafl:. A few indeed had the firmnefs to wait their deltiny in their own hcmfes ; bu^much the greater nnmber thought it more advifable to undertake the journey, than to run fo great a hazard of their lives. The exceffive love which a lady had for her hufband, blended with a dread that he would forget her during her abfence, his employment not permitting him to accompany her to Panama, determined her to fet the firit example of acliug contrary to this general cuftom. The reafons for her fear were fufficient to jullify her refolution to run the rifk of a probable danger, in order to avoid an evil which fhe knew to be certain, and mufl: have embittered the whole remainder of her life. The event was happy ; fhe was delivered, and recovered her former health ; and the example of a lady of her rank did not fail of infpiring others with the like courage, though not founded on the fame reafons ; till, by degrees, the dread which former melancholy cafes had imprefl'ed on the mind, and gave occafion to this climate's being confidered as fatal to pregnant women, was entirely difperfed. Another opinion equally ftrange is, that the animals from other climates, on their being brought to Porto Bello, ceafe to procreate. The inhabitants bring inltances of hens brought from Panama or Carthagena, which immediately on their arrival grew barren, and laid no more eggs ; and even at this very time, the horned cattle fent from Panama, after they have been here a fhort time, lofe their flefli fo as not to be eatable ; though they do not want for plenty of good pafhirc. It is certain that there are no horfes or affes bred here, which tends to confirm the opinion that tliis climate checks the generation of creatures produced in a more benign or lefs noxious air. However, not to rely on the common opinion, we inquired of fome intelligent perfons, who differed but very little from the vulgar, and even confirmed what they aiferted, by many known fafts, and experiments performed by themfelves. The liquor in Mr. Reaumur's thermometer, on the 4th of December 1735, at fix in the morning, flood at J021, and at noon rofe to 1023. The heat here is exceffive, augmented by the fituation of the toVn, which is fur- rounded by high mountains, without any interval for the winds, whereby it might be refrefhed. The trees on the mountains ftand fo thick, as to intercept the rays of the fun ; and, confequently, hinder them from drying the earth under their branches : hence copious exhalations, which form large clouds, and precipitate in violent torrents of rain ; thefe are no fooner over, than the fun breaks forth afrefh, and fhines with its former fplendour ; though fcarcc has the adivity of his rays dried the furface of the ground not covered by the trees, when the atmofphere is again crowded by another colleftion of thick vapours, and the fun again concealed. Thus it continues during the whole day : the night is fubjei\ to the like viciiTitudes ; but without the ieaft diminution of heat in either. Thefe ulloa's voyage to south amkuica. 365 Thefe torrents of rain, which, by their fuddennefs and impetuofity, feem to threaten a fecond deluge, are accompanied with fuch tempefts of thunder and lightning, as muft daunt even the raoft refolute : this dreadful noife is prolonged by repercuiBons from the caverns of the mountains, like the explofion of a cannon, the rumbling of which is heard for a minute after. To this may alfo be added the howlings and fhrieks of the multitudes of monkies of all kinds, which live in the forefts of the mountains, and which are never louder than when a man of war fires the morning and evening gun, though they are fo much ufed to it. This continual inclemency, added to the fatigue of the feamen in unloading the fhips, carrying the goods on {hore in barges, and afterwards drawing them along on fledges,'' caufes a very profufe perfpiration, and, confequently, renders them weak and faint ; and they, in order to recruit their fpirits, have recourie to brandy, of which there is, on thefe occafions, an incredible confumption. The exceflive labour, immoderate drinking, and the inclemency and the unhealthfulnefs of the climate, muft jointly deftroy the beil conftitutions, and produce thofe deleterious difeafes fo common in this country. They may well be termed deleterious ; for the fymptoms of all are fatal, the patients being too much attenuated to make any efFeftual refiftance ; and hence epidemics and mortal dif- tempers are fo very common. It is not the feamen alone who are fubjecl: to thefe difeafes ; others, ftrangers to the feas, and not concerned in the fatigues, are attacked by them ; and, confequently, is a fufficient demonftration that the other two are only collateral, though they tend both to fpread and inflame the diftemper ; it being evident, that when the fluids are difpofed to receive the feeds of the diftemper, its progrefs is more rapid, and its attacks more violent. On fome occafions, phyficians have been fent for from Carthagena, as being fuppofed to be better acquainted with the propereft methods of curing the diftempers of this country, and, confequently, more able to recover the feamen ; but experience has fliewn, that this intention has been fo little anfwered, that the galleons or other European ftiips, which ftay any time here, feldom depart, without burying half, or, at leaft, a third of their men ; and hence this city has, with too much reafon, been termed the grave of the Spaniards ; but it may, with much greater propriety, be applied to thofe of other nations who vifit it. This remark was fufficiently confirmed by the havoc made among the Englifli, when their fleet, in 1726, appeared before the port, with a view of makmg themfelves mafters of the treafure brought thither from all parts to the fair held at the arrival of the galleons, which, at that time, by the death of the Marquis Grillo, were commanded by Don Francifco Cornejo, one of thofe great officers whofe conduct and refolution have done honour to the navy of Spain. He ordered the fliips under his command to be moored in a line within the harbour ; and erefted, on the entrance, a battery, the care of which he committed to the officers of the fliips : or rather, indeed, fuperintended it himfelf, omitting no precaution, but vifiting every part in perfon. Thele preparatives ftruck luch a confternation into the Englifli fleet, though of confiderable force, that, inftead of making any attempt, they formed only a blockade, depending on beuig fupplied with provifions from Carthagena, and that famine would at length oblige the Spaniards to give up what they at firft intended to acquire by force ; but when the admiral thought himfelf on the point of obtaining his ends, the inclemency of the fealbn de- clared itfelf among his fhips' companies, fvveeping away fuch numbers, that in a fliort time he was obliged to return to Jamaica, with the lofs of above half his people. But, notwithftanding the known inclemency of the climate of Porto Bello, and its general fatality to Europeans, the fquadron of 1730 enjoyed there a good ftate of health, though y' ■I ^66 ulloa's voyage to south America. though the fatigues and irregularities among the feamen were the fame : nor was there any perceivable change in the air. This happy fingularity was attributed to the ftay of the fquadron at Carthagena, where they paffed the time of the epideniia, by which their conftitutions were better adapted to this climate ; and hence it appears, that the principal caufe of thefe diltempers flows from the conftitutions of the Europeans not being ufed to it ; and thus they eitlTer die, or become habituated to it, like the natives. Creoles, and other inhabitants. CHAP. V. — Account of the Inhabitants and Country about Porto Bello. IN feveral particulars there is no effential difference between Carthagena and Porto "Bello ; fo that I fhall only mention thofe peculiar to the latter ; and add fome obferva- tions, tending to convey a more exact knowledge of this country. The number of the inhabitants of Porto Bello, by reafon of its fmallnefs, and the inclemency of its climate, is very inconfiderable, and the greater part of thefe, Negroes and Mulattos, there being fcarce thirty white families ; thofe, who by commerce or their eftates are in eafy circumftances, removing to Panama. So that thofe only ftay at Porto Bello, whofe employments oblige them to it ; as the governor or lieutenant-general, the commanders of the forts, the civil officers of the crown, the officers and foldiers of the garrifons, the alcaldes in office and of the hermandad, and the towTi-clerk. Dur- ing our ftay here, the garrifons of the forts confifted of about one hundred and twenty- five men, being detachments from Panama ; and thefe, though coming from a place fo near, are affefted to fuch a degree, that in lefs than a month they are fo attenuated, as to be unable to do any duty, till cuftom again reftores them to their ftrength. None of thefe, or of the natives of the country, above the Mulatto clafs, ever fettle here, thinking it a difgrace to live in it : a certain proof of its unhealthinefs, fmce thofe to whom it gave birth forfake it. In manners and cuftoms, the inhabitants of Porto Bello refemble thofe of Carthagena, except that the latter are more free and generous, thofe in the parts round Porto Bello being accufed of avarice ; a vice natural to all the inhabitants of thefe countries. Provifions are fcarce at Porto Bello, and confequently dear, particularly during the time of the galleons and the fair, when there is a neceffity for a fupply from Cartha- gena and Panama. From the former are brought maize, rice, cafava, hogs, poultry, and roots ; and from the latter, cattle. The only thing in plenty here is fifti, of which there is great variety, and very good. It alfo abounds in fugar-canes, fo that the chacaras, or farm-houfes, if they may be fo called, are built of them. They have alfo ingenios * for making fugar and molafi'es, and, from the latter, brandy. Frefli water pours down in ftreams from the mountains, fome running without the town, and others croffing it. Thefe waters are very light and digeftive, and, in thofe who are ufed to them, good to create an appetite ; qualities, which in other coun- would be very valuable, are liere pernicious. This country feems fo curfed by nature, tries that what is in itfelf good, becomes here deftrudive. For, doubtlefs, this water is too fine and aftive for the ftomachs of the inhabitants ; and thus produces dyienteries, the laft ftage of all other diltempers, and which the patient very feldom furvives. Thefe rivulets, in their defcent from the mountains, form little refervoirs, or ponds, whofe coolnefs is increafed by the fliade of the trees, and in thefe all the inha- * Inger.io fignifics tlic mill, ilill, luid apparatus, for making fugar, rum, &c. A. 2 bitants ulloa's voyack to south ameuica. .367 bitants of the town bathe themfelves conftantly every day at eleven in the morning ; and the Europeans fail not to follow an example fo pleafiint and conducive to health. As thefe forefts almoft border on the hoults of the town, the tigers often make incurfions into the flreets during the night, carrying oft' fowls, dogs, and other domeftic creatures ; and fometimes even boys have fallen a prey to them ; and it is certain, that ravenous beafts, which provide themfelves with food in this manner, are afterwards known to defpife what the forefts aff"ord ; and that, after tafting human flefh, they flight that of beafts *. Befides the fnares ufually laid for them, the Negroes and Mulattos, who fell \\ood in the forefts of the mountains, are very dexterous in encountering the tigers ; and fome, even on account of the flender reward, feek them in their retreats. The arms in this combat, feemingly fo dangerous, are only a lance, of two or three yards in length, made of a very ftrong wood, with the point of the fame hardened in the fire ; and a kind of cimeter, about three quarters of a yard in length. Thus armed, they ftay till the creature makes an aflault on the left arm, which holds the lance, and is wrapped up in a fliort cloak of baize. Sometimes the tiger, aware of the danger, feeras to decline the combat ; but his antagonift provokes him wath a flight touch of the lance, in order, while he is defending himfelf, to ftrike a fure blow ; for, as foon as the crea- ture feels the lance, he grafps it with one of his paws, and with the other ftrikes at the arm which holds it. Then it is that the perfon nimbly aims a blow with his cimeter, which he kept concealed with the other hand, and hamftrings the creature, which immediately draw's back enraged, but returns to the charge ; when, receiving another fuch ftroke, he is totally deprived of his moft dangerous weapons, and rendered inca- pable of moving. After which the perfon kills him at leifure, and ftripping off" the fldn, cutting off" the head, and the fore and hind feet, returns to the town, difplaying thefe as the trophies of his viftory. Among the great variety of animals in this country, one of the moft remarkable is the Perico ligero, or nimble Peter, an ironical name given it on account of its extreme fluggiflmefs and floth. It refembles a middling monkey, but of a wretched appearance, its fkin being of a greyifti brown, all over corrugated, and the logs and feet without hair. He is fo lumpifti, as not to ftand in need of either chain or hutch, for he never ftirs till compelled by hunger. When he moves, every effort is attended with fuch a plaintive, and at the fame time fo difagreeable a cry, as at once produces pity and dif- guft ; and this even on the flighteft motion of the head, legs, or feet ; proceeding pro- bably from a general contrattion of the mufcles and nerves of his body, which puts him to extreme pain, when he endeavours to move them. In this difagreeable cry confifts his whole defence ; for, it being natural to him to fly at the firft hoftile approach of any beaft, he makes at every motion fuch bowlings as are even infupportable to his purfuer, who foon quits him, and even flies beyond the hearing of his horrid noife. Nor is it only during the time he is in motion that he utters thefe cries ; he repeats them while he refts himfelf, continuing a long time motionlefs before he takes another march. The food of this creature is generally wild fruits ; when he can find none on the ground, he looks out for a tree well loaded, which, with a great deal of pains, he climbs ; and, to fave himfelf fuch another toilfome afcent, plucks off" all the fruit, throwing them on the ground ; and to avoid the pain of defcending, forms himfelf into a ball, and drops from * This is an error. Beafts of prey in America are not fo fierce as in Africa and Afia ; they never attack the human fpecies, but when forced by hunger, or provoked. It is affirmed by the natives, that if an European, with his Negro and dog, were to, meet with two hungry beafts of prey, whether tigers or ounces, they would feize the dog and Negro, and leave the European. But the truth I never knew experienced. A. the 368 ulloa's voyage to south a:\ierica.' the branches. At the foot of this tree he continues till all the fruits are confumed, never ftirring till hunger forces him to feek again for food. Serpents are here as numerous and deadly as at Carthagena ; and toads ' innumer- able, fwarming not only in the damp and marfhy places, as in other countries, but even in the ftreets, courts of great houfes, and all open places in general. The great lum- bers of them, and their appearance after the leafl: fliower, have induced fome to ima- gine, that every drop of water becomes a toad ; and though they allege, as a proof, the extraordinary increafe of them on the fmallefl fhower, their opinion does not feem to me to be well founded. It is evident, that thefe reptiles abound both in the forells and neighbouring rivers, aod even in the town itfelf ; and produce a prodigious quantity of animalcula, from whence, according to the befl: naturalifts, thefe reptiles are formed. Thefe animacula either rife in the vapours, which form the rain, and falling together with it on the ground, which is extremely heated by the rays of the fun, or being already depofited in it by the toads, grow, and become animated, in no lefs numbers than were formerly feen in Europe. But fome of them which appear after rains being fo large as to meafure fix inches in length, they cannot be imagined the effeft of an inftantaneous production ; I am therefore inclined to think, from my own obfervations, that this part of the country being remarkably moid, is very well adapted to nourifh the breed of thofe creatures, which love watery places ; and therefore avoid thofe parts of the ground expofed to the rays of the fun, feeking others where the earth is foft, and there form themfelves cavities in the ground, to enjoy the moifture ; and as the furface over them is generally dry, the toads are not perceived ; but no fooner does it begin to rain, than they leave their retreats to come at the water, which is their fupreme de- h'ght ; and thus till the ftreets and open places. Hence the vulgar opinion had its rife, that the drops of rain were transformed into toads. When it has rained in the night, the ftreets and fquares in the morning feem paved with thefe reptiles ; fo that you cannot flep without treading on them, which fometimes is produdive of trouble- fome bites : for, belidcs their poifon, they are large enough for their teeth to be fe- verely felt. Some we have already obferved to be fix inches long, and this is their general meafure ; and there are fuch numbers of them, that nothing c;m be imagined more difmal than their croakings, during the night, in all parts ot the town, woods, and caverns of the mountains. CHAP. Vl. — Ofthe Trade of Porto Bella. THE town of Porto Bello, fo thinly inhabited, by realbn of its noxious air, the fcarcity of provifions, and the barrcnnefs of its foil, becomes, at the time of the gal- leons, one of the moft populous places in all South America. Its fituation on the iith- mus, betwLxt the South and North Sea, the goodnefs of its harbour, and its fmall dif- tance from Panama, have given it the preference for the rendezvous of the joint com- merce of Spain and Peru, at its fair. On advice being received at Carthagena, that the Peru fleet had unloaded at Panama, the galleons make the befl of their way to Porto Bello, in order to avoid the diftempers which have their fource from idlenefs. The concourfe of people on this occafion is fuch as to raife the rent of lodging to an exceflive degree ; a middling chamber, with a clofet, * Called by the natives ferpos : tliey appear every dewy evening in as great numbers as after a (hower. I never heard of the opinion the author fpeaks of. A. 1 2 lets. ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA, 369 lets, during the fair, for a thoufand crowns, and fome large houfes for four, five, or fix thoufand. The (hips are no fooner moored in the harbour, than the firft work is to eredl in the fquare a tent made of the fliip's fails, for receiving its cargo, at which the proprietors of the goods are prefent, in order to find their bales by the marks which diftinguifti them. Thefe bales are drawn on fledges to their refpeftive places by the crew of eveiy fhip, and the money given them is proportionally divided. Whilfl; the feamen and European traders are thus employed, the land is covered with droves of mules from Panama, each drove confifling of above an hundred, loaded with chefts of gold and filver, on account of the merchants of Peru. Some unload them at the exchange, others in the middle of the fquare ; yet, amidil the hurry and confufion of fuch crowds, no theft, lofs, or difturbance is ever known. He who has feen this place during the tiempo muerto, or dead time, folitary, poor, and a perpetual filence reigning every where ; the harbour quite empty, and every place wearing a melancholy afpeft, muft be filled with aftonifliment at the fudden change ; to fee the bullling multitudes, every houfe crowded, the fquare and ftreets encumbered with bales and chefts of gold and filver of all kinds ; the harbour full of fhips and velTels, fome bringing by the way of Rio de Chape the goods of Peru, as cacao, quinquina, or Jefuits' bark. Vicuna wool and bezoar ftones ; others coming from Carthagena loaded with provifions ; and thus a fpot at all other times detefted for its deleterious qualities, becomes the ftaple of the riches of the old and new world, and the fceneof one of the moft confiderable branches of commerce in the whole earth. The fliips being unloaded, and the merchants of Peru, together with the prefident of Panama, arrived, the fair comes under deliberation. And for this purpofe the de- puties of the feveral parties repair on board the commodore of the galleons, where, in prefence of the commodore, and the prefident of Panama, the former as patron of the Europeans, and the latter, of the Peruvians, the prices of th"b feveral kinds of mer- chandifes are fettled ; and all preliminaries being adjufted in three or four meetings, the contraQs are figned, and made public, that every one may conform himfelf to them in the fale of his eftefts. Thus all fraud is precluded. The purchafes and fales, as likewife the exchanges of money, are tranfadted by brokers, both from Spain and Peru. After this, every one begins to difpofe of his goods ; the Spanifli brokers em- barking their chefts of money, and thofe of Peru fending away the goods they have purchafed, in veffels called chatas and bongos, up the river Chagre. And thus the fair of Porto Bello en is. Formerly this fair was limited to no particular time ; but as a long ilay, in fuch a fickly place, extremely affefted the health of the traders. His Catholic Majefty tranf- mitted an order, that the fair fhould not laft above forty days, reckoning from that in which the fliips came to an anchor in the harbour ; and that, if in this fpace of time the merchants could not agree in their rates, thofe of Spain fhould be allowed to carry their goods up the country to Peru ; and accordingly the commodore of the galleons has orders to re-embark them, and return to Carthagena ; but otherwife, by virtue of a compact between the merchants of both kingdoms, and ratified by the king, no Spa- nifli trader is to fend his goods, on his own account, beyond Porto Bello ; and on the contrary, thofe of Peru cannot fend remittances to Spain, for purchafing goods there. Whilft the Englifh were permitted to fend an annual fhip, called Navio de Permiffo, fhe ufed to bring to the fair a large cargo on her own account, never failing firft to touch at Jamaica, fo that her loading alone was more than half of all thofe brought by the galleons j for befides that her burthen fo far exceeded five hundred Spanifli VOL. XIV. 3 B tons. Jjrc ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. tons, that it was even more than nine hundred, flie had no provifions, \rater, or other things, which fill a great part of the hold ; fhe indeed took them in at Jamaica, from whence fhe was attended by five or fix fmaller vefTels, loaded wth goods, which, when arrived near Porto Bello, were put on board her, and the provifions removed into the tenders ; by which artifice the fingle fhip was made to carry more than five or fix of the largefl galleons. This nation having a free trade, and felling cheaper than the Spaniards, that indulgence was of infinite detriment to the commerce of Spain. In the dead time, all the trade ftirring here, confifls in provifions from Carthagena.. and cacao and quinquina, down the river Chagre ; the former is carried in fmaU vef- fels to Vera Cruz, and the quinquina either depofited in warehoufes, or put on board ihips, which with permifiion, come from Spain to Nicaragua and Honduras ; thefe fliips alfo take in cacao. Some fmall veffels likewife come from the iflands of Cuba, La Trinidad, and St. Domingo, with cacao and rum, "Whilil the afiiento of negroes fubfifted either v^ith the French or Englifh, one of their principal fattories was fettled here, and was of confiderable advantage to its com- merce, as being the channel by which not only Panama was fupplied with negroeSj but from whence they were fent all over the kingdom of Peru ; on which account the- agents of the affiento were allowed to bring with them fuch a quantit)' of provifions as was thought necelfary, both for their own ufe, and their flaves of both fexes.. BOOK III. VOTAGE FROM PORTO BELLO TO PANAMA.- CHAP. I. — Voyage up the Chagre, and Journey from Cruces to 'Panama by Land.- A S it had always been our fixed defign to flay no longer than abfolutely neceffary in any place, till we had anfwered the great end of our commiflion, our ardour to enter upon it, together with a defire of quitting this dangerous climate, induced us to make the utmofl difpatch. In order to this, we fent advice from. Porto Bello to Don Dionyfio Martinez de la Vega, prefident of Panama, of our arrival, the motives of OUT voyage, and other circumflances, together with His INIajefly's orders relating to the affiftance to be given us by al! his ofBcers ; adding our requefts, that he would be pleafed to fend one or two of thofe veffels ufed on the Chagre, to brmg us to Pana- ma, it being impra£ticable for us to travel thither by land, as fome of the inff ruments were too large for the narrow craggy roads in many parts, and others of a nature not to be carried on mules. This gentleman, who has always fhewn a remarkable zeal for every thing dignified with His INIajefly's name, was not in the leafl wanting on this Gccafion ; and his pohte reply, which fully anfwered our mod fanguine hopes, was followed by two vefl'els difpatched to Porto Bello. Immedir.tely on their arrival, we put on board the inftruments and baggage,, belonging both to the French gentlemen, and ourfelves ; and on the 2 2d of December 1735, departed from Porto Bello. The land wind being contrary to us, we rowed out of Porto Bello harbour ; but the brifas fetting in at nine in the morning, both veffels got under fail ; and a frefh gale brought us, at four in the evening of the fame day^. to the mouth of the river 9 Chagre., ULLOA S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. JJfl Chagre, where we landed at the cuftora-houfe ; and the next day we began to row up the river. On the 24rh, we endeavoured to proceed in the fame manner, but the force of our oars being too weak to ftem the current, we were obliged to fet the veffels along with poles. At a quarter after one in the afternoon, we meafured the velocity of the cur- rent, and found it ten toifes and one foot in forty feconds and an half. In this flow toilfome manner we proceeded till the 27th at eleven in the morning, when we arrived at Cruces, the landing place, about five leagues from Panama. As we advanced up the river we found a great increafe in the velocity of the current, which on the 25th was ten toifes in twenty-fix feconds and a half: on the 26th, at the place where we anchored for that night, ten toifes in fourteen feconds and a half: and on the 27th, at the town of Cruces, the fame fpace in fixteen feconds. Confequently the greateft. velocity of the water is two hundred and eighty-three toifes, or about a league, in an hour. This river, which was formerly called Lagartos, from the number of alligators in it, though now better known by that of Chagre, has its fource in the mountains near Cruces. Its mouth, which is in the North Sea, in 9' 1 8' 40" north latitude, and 295' 6' longitude, from the meridian of TenerifFe, was difcovered by Lopez de Olano. Diego de Alvites difcovered that part of it where Cruces is fituated ; but the firfl Spaniard who failed down it, to reconnoitre it to its mouth, was Captain Hernando de la Serna, in the year 1527. Its entrance is defended by a fort, fituated on a fteep rock on the eafh fide near the fea fhore. This fort is called San Lorenzo de Chagres, has a commandant and a lieutenant, both appointed by His Majefty, and the garrifon is draughted from Panama. About eight toifes from the above fort, is a town of the fame name. The houfes are principally of reeds, and the inhabitants negroes, mulattos, and meftizos. They are a brave and aQ:ive people, and on occafion, take up arms to the number of triple the ufual garrifon of the fort. Oppofite, on a low and level ground, (lands the royal cuftom-houfe, where an account is taken of all goods going up the Chagre. Here the breadth of the river is about one hundred and twenty toifes, but grows narrower gradually as you approach its fource. At Cruces, the place where it begins to be navigable, it is only twenty toifes broad ; the neareft diftance between this town and the mouth is twenty-one miles, and the bearing north-well 7° 24' wefterly ; but the diftance meafured along the feveral windings of the river, is no lefs than forty-three miles. It breeds a great number of caymanes or alligators ; creatures often feen on its banks, which are impaflable, both on account of the clofenefs of the trees, and the buflies which cover the ground, as it were with thorns. Some of thefe trees, efpecially the cedar, are ufed in making the canoes or banjas employed on the river. Many of them being undermined by the water, are thrown down by the fwellings of the river ; but the prodigious magnitude of the trunk, and their large and extenfive branches, hinder them from being carried away by the current ; fo that they remain near their original fituation, to the great inconvenience and even danger of the veifels ; for the greater part of them being under water, a veffel by ftriking fuddenly on them is fre- quently overfet. Another obftruftion to the navigation of this river is the races, or fwift currents over the fhallows, where thofe veffels, though built for that purpofe, cannot proceed for want of a fufficient quantity of water j fo that they are obliged to be lightened, till they have paffed the (hallow. 3 B 2 The 372 ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. The barks employed on this river are of two kinds, the chatas and bongos, called in Peru, bonques. The firft are compofed of feveral pieces of timber, like barks, and of great breadth, that they may drnw but litte water ; they carry fix or feven hun- dred quintals. The bongos are formed out of one piece of wood ; and it is furprifing to think there fhould be trees of fuch a prodigious bulk, fome being eleven Paris feet broad, and carrying conveniently four or five hundred quintals. Both forts have a cabin at the flern, for the conveniency of the paflengers, a kind of awning fupported with a wooden llancheon reaching to the head, and a partition in the middle, which is alfo continued the whole length of the veffel ; and over the whole, when the veflel is loaded, are laid hides, that the goods may not be damaged by the violence of the rains, which are very frequent here. Each of thefe require, befides the pilot, at leait eighteen or twenty robull negroes ; for without fuch a number, they would not be able, in going up, to make any way againft the current. All the forells and woods near this river are full of wild beafts, efpecially different kinds of monkeys. They are of various colours, as black, brown, reddifli, and ftriated ; there is alfo the fame diverfity in their fize ; fome being a yard long, others about half a yard, and others fcarce one third. The flefli of all thefe different kinds is highly valued by the negroes, efpecially that of the red ; but however delicate the meat may be, the fight of them is I think, enough to make the appetite abhor them ; for when dead, they are fcalded in order to take off the hair, whence the fkin is con- tracted by the heat, and when thoroughly cleaned, looks perfectly white, and very greatly refembles a child of about two or three years of age, when crying. This refemblance is {hocking to humanity, yet the fcarcity of other food in many parts of America renders the flelh of thefe creatures valuable ; and not only the negroe«, but the Creoles and Europeans themfelves, make no fcruple of eating it. Nothing in my opinion, can excel the profpefts which the rivers of this country ex- hibit. The moft fertile imagination of a painter can never equal the magnificence of the rural landfcapes here drawn by the pencil of Nature. The groves which fhade the plains, and extend their branches to the river ; the various dimenfions of the trees which cover the eminences ; the texture of their leaves ; the figure of their fruits, and the various colours they exhibit, form a moft delightful fcene, which is greatly height- ened by the infinite varitety of creatures with which it is diverfified. The different fpecies of monkeys, fkipping in troops from tree to tree, hanging from the branches, and in other places fix, eight, or more of them linked together, in order to pafs a river, and the dams with their young on their flioulders, throwing themfelves into odd poftures, making a thoufand grimaces, will perhaps appear fiftitious to thofe who have not actually feen it. But if the birds are confidered, our reafon for admiration will be greatly augmented : for, befide thofe already mentioned (Book I. chap, vii.), and which, from their abundance, feem to have had their origin on the banks of this river, here are a great variety of others, alfo eatable, as the wild and royal peacock, the turtle-dove, and the heron. Of the latter there are four or five Ipecies ; fome entirely white, others of the fame colour, except the neck and fome parts of the body, which are red ; others black, only the neck, tips of the wings and the belly white ; and fome, with other mixture of colours ; and all differing in fize. The fpecies firft mentioned are the leaft ; the white mixed with black the largeft and moft palatable. The flefh of peacocks, pheafants, and other kinds, is very delicate *. The trees along the banks * The fifhy tafte, which moll of the fowls in this country have, is an exception to their delicacy as food. A. of ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. J7J of this river are furprlfingly loaded with fruit ; but the pine-apples, for beauty, fize, flavour, and fragrancy, excel thofe of all other countries, and are highly efteemed in all pai ts of America. On our arrival at Cruces, we went on fliore, and were entertained by the alcalde of the town, whofe houfe was that of the cuftoms, where an account is taken of all goods brought up the river. Having, with all poflible difpatch, got every thing ready for our journey to Panama, on the 29th, at half an hour after eleven in the morning, we fet out, and reached that city by three quarters after fix in the evening. We made it our firil: bufinefs to wait on the prefident, a mark of refped: due, not only to his dignity, but alfo for the many civilities he had fiievm us. This worthy gentleman re- ceived us all, and particularly the foreigners, in the moft cordial and endearing man- ner. He alfo recommended to all the King's officers, and other perfons of diflinftion in the city, not to be wanting in any good office, or mark of efteem ; a behaviour which fliewed at once the weight of the royal orders, and his zeal to execute his Sove- reign's plea fare. Some indifpenfable preparations which were to be made for the profecution of our journey, detained us longer at Panama than we expcfted. We however employed our time to the beft advantage, making feveral obfervations, particularly on the latitude- and the pendulum ; but the proximity of Jupiter at that time to the fun hindered us from fertling the longitude. I alfo employed myfelf in taking a plan of the place, with all its fortifications, and adjacent coaft. At length, all things being in readinefs, we embarked without any farther iofs of time. CHAP. II. — Defcription of the City of Fanama. PANAMA is built on an ifthraus of the fame name, the coaft of which is wafhed by the South Sea. From the obfervations we made here, we found the latitude of this city to be S*' 57*48 '4- north. With regard to its longitude, there are various opinions ; none of the aftronomers having been able, from obfervations made on the fpot, to afcer- tain it, fo that it is ftill doubtful whether it Hes on the eaft or weft fide of the meridian of Porto Bello. The French geographers will have it to lie on the eaft fide, and ac- cordingly have placed it fo in their maps ; but, in thofe of the Spaniards, it is on the weft : and I conceive the latter, from their frequent journies from one place to the other, may be concluded to have a more intimate knowledge of their refpeflive fituations ; whereas the former, being ftrangers, in a great meafure, to thofe places, have not the opportunity of making fo frequent obfervations. I allow indeed that, among the Spa- niards who make this little journey, the number is very fmall of thofe who have either capacity or inclination for forming a well-grounded judgment of the road they travel ; but there have been alfo many expert pilots, and other perfons of curiofity, who have employed their attention on it, and from their report the fituation of the city has been determined. This opinion is in fome meafure confirmed by our courfe, the direiElion of which on the river, from its mouth to the town of Cruces, was eaft 6^ 15' foutherly, and the diftance being twenty-one miles, the difference between the two meridians is twenty minutes, the diftance Chagre is fituated to the weft of Cruces. We muft alfo confider the diftance between Porto Bello and Chagre. During the firft two hours and a half we failed a league and a half an hour, when, the land-breeze fpringing up, we failed two leagues an hour for feven hours, which in all makes eighteen leagues ; and he whole courfe having been very nearly weft, the difference of longitude muft have 1 been 374 ulloa's voyage to south ameuica. been forty-four miles, or forty-one, allowing for what might have been wanting of a due weft courfe ; and from this again fubtraciing the twenty minutes which Cruces lies to the eaft of Chagre, the refult is, that Cruces is fituated twenty-one minutes to the weftward of Porto Bello. To this laft refult muft be added the diftance of meridians between Cruces and Panama, the bearing of which is near fouth-weft and north-eaft ; and reckoning that we travelled, on account of the roughnefs and cragginefs of the road, only three quarters of a league an hour, during the feven hours, the whole is fourteen miles, and the difference of meridians ten minutes and a half. Confequently Panama is fituated about thirty minutes weft of Porto Bello ; and the Spanifti artifts are nearer the truth than the French. The firft difcovery of Panama the Spaniards owe to Tello de Guzman, who landed here in 15 15; but found only fome fifliermen's huts, this being a very proper place for their bufmefs, and from thence the Indians call it Panama, which fignifies a place abounding in fifli. Before this, namely, in the year 15 13, Bafco Nunez de Balboa dif- covered the South Sea, and took legal poflelTion of it in the names of the Kings of Caftile. The difcovery of Panama was, in the year 15 18, followed by the fet- tlement of a colony there, under Pedrarias Davila, governor of Caftilla del Oro, the name by which this Terra Firma was then called; and in 1521, His Catholic Majefty, the Emperor Charles V., conftituted it a city, with the proper privileges. It was this city's misfortune, in the year 1670, to be facked and burnt by John Morgan, an Englilh adventurer. He had before taken Porto Bello and Maracaybo ; and, retiring to the iflands, he every where publiftied his defign of going to Panama ; upon which many of the pirates, who then infefted thofe feas, joined him. He firft failed for Chagre, where he landed fome of his men, and, at the fame time, battered the caftle with his ftiips ; but his fuccefs was owing to a very extraordinary accident. His ftrength was confiderably diminiftied by the great numbers killed and wounded by the fort, and he began to think it advifable to retreat ; when an arrow, fhot from the bow of an Indian, lodged in the eye of one of Morgan's companions. The pei fon wounded, rendered defperate by the pain, with a remarkable firmnefs and prefence of mind, drew the arrow from the wound, and, wrapping one of its ends in cotton, or tow, put it into his mufket, which was ready loaded, and difcharged it into the fort, where the roofs of the houfes were of ftraw, and the fides of wood, according to the cuftom of that country. The arrow fell on one of the roofs, and immediately fet it on fire, which was not at firft obferved by the befieged, who were bufy in defending the place ; but the fmoke and flames foon informed them of the total deftruttion of the fort, and of the magazine of powder, which the flames muft foon reach. This unexpeded accident filled them with terror and confufion ; the courage of the foldiers degenerated into tumult and difobedience ; and, every one being eager to fave himfelf, the works were foon abandoned, in order to efcape the double danger of being either burnt or blown up. The commandant, however, determined to do all in his power, ftill defended the fort, with fixteen or twenty foldiers, being all that were left him, till, covered with wounds, he fell a vittim to his loyalty. The pirates, encouraged by this accident, puflied their attack with the utmoft vigour ; and the few people were obliged to furrender the place, which the violence of the flames foon laid in aflies. Having furmounted this difficulty, the greater part of theru proceeded up the river in boats and launches, leaving the ftiips at anchor, for the defence of their new conqueft. The detachment having landed at Cruces, marched towards Panama, and, on the Sabana, a fpacious plain before the city, they had feveral fkirmiflies, in which Morgan always gained the advantage ; fo that he made himfelf mafter of the city, but found it almoft forfaken ; tJLLOA's VOYAGE TO SOUtKf AMEfirCAV ^f$ forfaken ; the inhabitants, on feeing their men defeated, haidng retired into the woodsir He now plundered it at his leifure ; and, after flaying fome days, agreed, for a large ranfom, to evacuate it without damaging the buildings ; but, after the payment of the money, the city was fet on fire, by accident, as they gave out, and as the hiftory of his adventures relates ; but it is much more probable that it was done by defign. To pretend it was owing to accident, feemed to them the befl palliative for their violating the treaty. This misfortune rendering it abfolucely neceffary to rebuild the city, it was removed to its prefent fituation, which is about a league and a half from the former, and much more convenient. It has a wall of free-ftone, and is defended by a large garrifon of regulars ; whence detachments are fent to do duty at Darien, Porto Bello, and Chagre. Near the city, on the north-weft, is a mountain called Ancon, whofe perpendicular height, by a geometrical menfuration, we found to be one hundred and one toifes. The houfes, in general, when we vifited this city, were of wood, having tut one ftory, and a tiled roof, but large ; and from their dilpofition, and the fymmetry of their windows, made a handfome appearance. A few were of ftone. Without the walls is an open fuburb, larger than the city itfelf, and the houfes of the fame materials and conftrudion as thofe within, except fuch as border on the country, moft of which are thatched with ftraw ; and among them fome bujios, or huts. The ftreets, both of the city and fuburb, are flraight, broad, and, for the moft part, paved. Though the greater part of the houfes were formerly of wood, fires were rarely known at Panama, the nature of the timber being fuch, that if any fire is laid on the floor, or placed againft a wall, it is produftive of no other confequence than that of making a hole, without kindling into a flame ; and the fire itfelf extinguifh- ed by the afhes. But, notwithftanding this excellent quality in the wood, in the year 1737, the city was almoft entirely confumed, the goodnefs of the timber being unable to fecure it from the ravages of the flames ; indeed, by the concurrence of another caufe, the timber was then rendered more combuftible. The fire began in a cellar, where, among other goods, there were great quantities of pitch, tar, naphtha, and brandy ; thefe inflammable fubftances rendered this fingular kind of wood a more eafy prey to the devouring flames. In this conflagration the fuburb owed its fafety to its-'diftance from the city, which is one thoufand two hundred toifes^ Since this misfortune, it has been again rebuilt ; and the greater part of the houfes are now of ftone, all forts of materials for buildings of this kind being here in the greateft plenty. In this city is a tribunal or royal audience, in which the governor of Panama prefides ;. and to this employment is annexed the captainfhip general of Terra Firma, which is generally conferred on an officer of diftinftion, though his common title is that of pre- fident of Panama. It has alfo a cathedral, and a chapter confifting of the bifhop, and a number of prebendaries ; an aujutamiento, or corporation, compofed of alcaldes and regidores ; three officers of revenue, under an accomptant, treafurer, and agent ; and a court of inquifition appointed by the tribunal of inquifition at Carthagena. The cathe- dral, and alfo the convents, are of ftone ; indeed, before the conflagration, feveral of the latter were of wood ; but that terrible misfortune fhewed them the necefTity of ufmg more folid materials. The convents are thofe of the Dominicans, Francifcans, Auguf- tines, and Fathers of Mercy ; a college of Jefuits, a nunnery of the order of St. Clara,, and an hofpital of St. Juan de Dios. The flender revenues will not admit of their being: very numerous ; and accordingly the ornaments of the churches are neither remarkably lich, nor contemptible.- 376 ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. The decorations of private houfes are elegant, but not coftly ; and though tliere are here no perfons of fuch monflrous fortunes as in fome cities of America, it is not defti- tute of wealthy inhabitants, and all have a fufficiency ; fo that, if it cannot be claffed among opulent cides, it is certainly above poverty. The harbour of this city is formed in its road, by the flicker of feveral iflands, parti- cularly Ifla de Naos, de Perico, and Flamencos : the anchoring-place is before the fecond, and thence called Perico. The fhips here lie very fafe ; and their didance from the city is about two and a half, or three leagues. The tides are regular ; and, according to an obfervation we made on the day of the conjunction, it was high-water at three in the evening. The water rifes and falls con- fiderably ; fo that the fliore, lying on a gentle flope, is, at low water, left dry to a great diflance. And here we may obferve the great diiference of the tides in the North and South Seas, being dire£tly oppofite : what in the ports on the North Sea is accounted irre- gular, is regular in the South ; and when in the former it ceafes to increafe or decreafe, in the latter it both rifes and falls, extending over the flats, and widening the channels, as the proper effeft of the flux and reflux. This particular is fo general, as to be obferved in all the ports of the South Sea ; for even at Manta, which is almofl: under the equinoctial, the fea regularly ebbs and flows nearly fix hours ; and the efFefts of thefe two motions are fufiiciently vifible along the fliores. The fame happens in the river of Guayaquil, where the quantity of its waters does not interrupt the regular fuc- ceflion of the ddes. The like phenomena are feen at Paita, Guanchaco, CaJlao, and the other harbours ; with this difference, that the water rifes and falls more in fome places than in others ; fo that we cannot here verify the well-grounded opinion enter- tained by failors, namely, that between the tropics the tides are irregular, both in the difproportion of the time of flood to that of the ebb, and alfo in the quantity of water rifmg or falling by each of thefe mqrions ; the contrary happening here. This pheno- menon is not eafily accounted for ; all that can be faid is, that the ifl;hmus, or narrow neck of land, feparating the two feas, confines their waters, whereby each is fubject to different laws. The variation of the magnetic needle, in this road, is "j"^ 39' eafl:erly. Both the road and whole coaft abound in a great variety of excellent fifh, among which are two kinds of oyfters, one fmaller than the other ; but the fmallefl are much the belt. At the bottom of the fea are a great number of pearls ; and the oyfters, in which they are found, are remarkably delicious. This fifhery is of great advantage to the inhabit- ants of all the iflands in this bay. The harbour of Perico is the rendezvous of the Peru fleet, during the time of the fair ; and is never without barks loaded with provifions from the ports of Peru, and a great number of coafting veffels going from thence to Choco, and parts on the weftern coafl of that kingdom. The winds are the fame as along the whole coaft ; the tides or currents are ftronger near the iflands than at a diftance from them ; but no general rule can be given as to their courfe, that depending on the place where the fliip is, with regard to the channels which they form. They alfo vary in the fame place according to the winds. Let it therefore fufl!ice that we have fliewn there are tides on this coaft, that, on any occafion, this notice may be applied to ufe. CHAP. ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. 377 CHAP. III. — Of the Clhnate and Inhabitants of Panama. MANY countries of America have fuch a refemblance, in refpeft to the inhabitants and cufloms, that they appear the fame. This is equally obfervable in the climate, when no difference is occafioned by the accidental difpofition of the ground, or quality of the foil. But, this fubjeft having been already fufficiently handled, a rational curiofity will require us only to mention thofe particulars in which they diifer. Thus, after faying that the inhabitants of this city refemble thofe of Carthagena with regard to their conftitution, I muft add, that there is fome difference in their difpofition, thofe of Panama being more parfimonious, more defigning and infidious, and flopping at nothing when profit is in view, the pole-flar both of Europeans and Creoles ; and it is difficult to determine which fet the firfl example. The fame felfifhnefs and parfimony reigns equally among the women, fome Spanifh ladies excepted, who have accompanied their hufbands, appointed auditors, or to fome other employments ; thefe flill retaining the qualities they imbibed from education. The women of Panama begin to imitate the drefs of thofe of Peru, which, when they go abroad, confifts only of a gown and petticoat, nearly refembling thofe worn in Spain ; but at home, on vifits, and fome particular ceremonies, their Ihift is their only clothing from the waift upwards. The fleeves are very long and broad, and quite open' in the lower part or near the hand ; and thefe, like the bofom, are decorated with very fine lace, the chief pride of the ladies of Panama. They wear girdles, and five or fix chap- lets or rows of beads about their necks, fome fet in gold, fome of coral mixed with fmall pieces of gold, and others lefs coftly ; but all of different fizes, in order to make the greater fhow ; and befides thefe, one, two, or more gold chains, having fome relics dependent from them. Round their arms they wear bracelets of gold and tombac ; alfo firings of pearls, corals, and bugles. Their petticoat reaches only from their waift to the calf of their legs ; and from thence to a little above their ancle, hangs, from their under petticoat, a broad lace. The Mefliza, or Negro women, or the coloured women as they are called here, are diftinguifhed in their drefs from thofe of Spain, only by the gown and petticoat ; the particular privilege of the latter, and which alfo gives them the title of Signora ; though many of them have little to boaft of, either with regard to rank or wealth *. If I omitted in Carthagena the following obfervation, it was in order to referve it for this place ; namely, that in Carthagena, Porto Bello, and Panama, the inhabitants have a very fingular pronunciation ; and as fome nations have a haughty accent, fome a politenefs in their manner of expreffion, and others fpeak in a very quick manner ; fo here their pronunciation has a faintnefs and languor, which is very difagreeable, till we are reconciled to it by cuftom. And what is ftill more particular, each of thefe three cities has a different accent in this languor ; befides particular fyllables peculiar to each, and no lefs different than they are from the manner of fpeaking ufed in Spain. This may, in fome meafure, flow from an ill habit of body, weakened by the exceflive heat of the climate ; but I believe it is principally owing to cuftom. The only difference between the climate of Carthagena and this is, that fummer begins later, and ends fooner, as, the longer the brifas delay their return, the fooner they are over. From many thermometrical obfervations made on feveral days without any fenfible difference betwixt them at the fame hours, on the 5th and 6th of January * Thefe culloms are general throughout all the northern parts of South America. A. VOL. xiv. 3 c ^72)^i 378 ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 1736, at fix in the morning, they found the liquor at io2of, at noon 1023I, and at three in the afternoon at 1025. But, at the fame time, it muft be obferved, that the brifas now began to blow, and, confequently it was not the time of the greatefl heats ; thefe prevailing in the months of Auguft, September, and Odober. Though this climate would naturally be fuppofed to produce the fame plants with others in the fame latitude, it is very different. Nor does this feem to proceed from any defed in the foil, but from the fondnefs of the inhabitants for trade, and their toiat negleft of agriculture, as too laborious. But, be the real caufe of it what it will, this is certain, that even in the parts contiguous to the city, the land is left entirely to nature ; nor does the leaft veftige remain of its being formerly cultivated. From hence proceeds a fcarcity of all things, and, confequently, they are fold at a high price. Here are no pulfe or pot-herbs of any kind ; and that this is not owing to the llerility of the earth, we had an evident proof in a finall garden, belonging to a Gallician, where all things of this kind were produced in great plenty. By this means Panama is under a neceflity of being fupplied with every thing, either from the coafl of Peru, or places in its own jurifdidion. CHAP. IV. — Of the ufual Food of the Inhabitants of Panama. THE very want of provifions caufes the tables at Panama to be better furniHied ; and it may be truly faid, that this city fubfifts wholly by commerce, whatever is con- fumed in it coming from other places. The fliips of Peru are continually employed in exporting goods from that country, and the coafting barks in bringing the products of the feveral places in its jurifdittion and that of Veraguas. So that Panama is plenti- fully furnifhed with the beft of wheat, maize, poultry, and cattle. Whether it be owing to the fuperior goodnefs of their food, the temperament of the climate, or to fome other caufe to me unknown, it is certain that the inhabitants of this city are not fo meagre and pale as thofe who live at Carthagena and Porto Bello. Their common food is a creature called Guana. It is amphibious, living equally on the land and in the water. It refembles a lizard in fliape, but is fomething larger, being generally above a yard in length : fome are confiderably bigger, others lefs. It is of a yellowifh green colour, but of a brighter yellow on the belly than on the back, where the green predominates. It has four legs like a lizard ; but its claws are much longer in proportion ; they are joined by a web, which covers them, and is of the fame form as thofe of geefe, except that the talons at the end of the toes are much longer, and projedt entirely out of the web or membrane. Its Ikin is covered with a thin fcale adhering to it, which renders it rough and hard ; and, from the crown of its head to the beginning of its tail, which is generally about half a yard, runs a line of vertical fcales, each fcale being from one to two lines in breadth, and three or four in length, feparated fo as to reprefent a kind of faw. But from the end of the neck to the root of the tail, the fcales gradually leflen, fo as, at the latter part, to be fcarce vifible. Its belly is, in largenefs, very difproportionable to its body ; and its teeth feparated, and very fharp pointed. On the water it rather walks than fwims, being fupported by the webs of its feet ; and on that element its fwiftnefs is fuch, as to be out of fight in an inllant ; whereas on the land, though far from moving heavily, its celerity is greatly lefs. "When pregnant, its belly fwells to an enormous fize; and, indeed, they often lay fixty eggs at a time, each of which is as large as thofe of a pigeon. Thefe are reckoned a great dainty, not only at Panama, but in other parts where this i o creature ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. 379 creature is found. Thefe eggs are all inclofed in a long, fine membrane, and form a kind of firing. The flefli of this animal is exceedingly white, and univerfaliy admired by all ranks. I tafled both the flefh and the eggs, but the latter are vifcid in the mouth, and of a very difagreeable tafle : when dreffed, their colour is the fame with that of the yolk of a hen's egg. The tafle of the flefh is fomething better : but, though fweet, has a naufeous fmell. The inhabitants, however, compared it to that of chicken ; though I could not perceive the leall fimilarity *. Thefe people, who, by being "accuftomed to fee them, forget the natural horror attending the fight of an alligator, delight in this food, to which the Europeans at firfl can hardly reconcile therrifelves. Here are two Angularities attributed to Nature, and firmly believed by the inhabit- ants ; one in the plant called Yerva del Gallo ; the other, the double-headed fnake, called La Cabe9a. It is conflantly afferted in this city, that its neighbourhood produces a fnake having a head at each extremity ; and that from the bite of each a poifon is conveyed equal in activity to that of the coral, or rattle-fnake ; we could not have the fatisfadion of fee- ing one of this flrange fpecies, though we ufed all the means in our power to gratify our curiofity : according to report, its ufual length is about half a yard, in figure per- fe£lly refembling an earth-worm. Its diameter is about fix or eight lines, and its head different from that of other fnakes ; being of the fame dimenfions with its body. It is, however, very probable, that the creature has only one head, and, from its refembling a tail, has been imagined to have two f. The motion of it is very flow, and its colour variegated with fpots of a paler tint. The herb called Del Gallo, or cocks-herb, is fo highly valued here, that they affirm, if an incifion be made round the neck of that fowl, provided the vertebra be not injured, on the application of this herb, the wound immediately heals. Whatever conftrudlion we put upon this pretended cure, it can only be confidered as a mere vulgar notion ; and I mention it here with no other intention, than to fatisfy the world that we were not ignorant of it. During our flay at Panama, we were very urgent with thofe who related this flory to procure us fome of the herb, that we might make the experiment ; but in this we were as unfortunate as in the article of the two-headed fnake, none being to be had. I have, however, fince been told, by perfons fettled in Panama, that it was very common ; a fuflicient proof, in my opinion, that the flory has no foundation ; for, if it was fo eafy to be had, and of fuch furprifing virtue, what reafon could they have for refufing to convince us by ocular demonfi ration ? It may have a flyptic virtue, when none of the principal blood-veffels are injured ; but that it can join them after being cut, together with the nerves and tendons when totally fevered, no perfon of any knowledge or judg- ment will ever be brought to believe. And, if its eft'efts are fo remarkably happy on poultry, it is furely natural to think it fhould have the fame on any other animal ; and, confequently, on the human fpecies. If this were the cafe, it would be of infinite value ; and no foldier, efpecially, fhould be without it, as a few ounces of this grand reftorative would immediately cure the mofl terrible wounds. * The flefli of the guana is whiter than chicken, and more pleafing to moft palates, except as to the drynefs of it. The common fauce to it is lime juice, fcafoned with Chian pepper ; wliich fauce the natives eat with their fifh, flefh, and fowl. If the guana were to be had in England, I doubt not but it would be ranked among the greateft dainties. A. t This conjefture is very right. H. ^ c 2 CHAP. 380 ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. I CHAP. V. — Of the Trade a?id Commerce of Panama. FROM what has been faid relating to the commerce of Porto Bello in the time of the galleons, an idea may be formed of that of Panama on the fame occafion ; this city being the firft where the treafure from Peru is landed, and likewife the flaple for the goods brought up the river Chagre, This commerce is of the greateft advantage to the inhabitants, both with regard to letting their houfes, the freight of vefTels, the hire of mules and Negroes, who, forming themfelves into feparate bodies, draw along from Cruces large bales, or any brittle and delicate wares ; the roads here, though the dif- tance is but fhort by croffing the chain of mountains called the Cordilleras, are in fome parts fo narrow, that a beaft of burden can hardly pafs along ; and, confequently, an imminent danger would attend the employing of mules for this fervice. This city, even during the abfence of the armada, is never without a great number of ftrangers ; it being the thoroughfare for all going to the ports of Peru, in the South Sea, as alfo for any coming from thence to Spain : to which mufl be added, the con- tinual trade carried on by the Peruvian fhips, which bring variety of goods, as meal of diiferent forts, wines, brandy from grapes, or brandy caftilla, as it is called by all the Americans in thefe parts, fugar, tallow, leather, olives, oil, and the like. The Ihips from Guayaquil bring cacao, and quinquina or Jefuits' bark ; which always meet with a quick exportation here, efpecially in time of peace. All goods, particularly thofe of Peru, are fubjedt to great alterations in their prices, fo that, on many occafions, the owners lofe confiderably, and fometimes their whole purchafe : on the other hand, there are favourable opportunities, when they triple it, according to the plenty or fcarcity of the commodity. The different forts of meals are in particular fubjeft to this accident ; they foon becoming fo extremely vitiated by the great heat, that there is an abfolute neceffity for throwing them overboard. The wines and brandies alfo, from the heat of the jars, contrafl: a pitchy tafte, and are foon unfit for ufe. The tallow melts, becomes full of maggots, and turns into a kind of earth ; the fame may be obferved of other goods. Hence, if the gain is fometimes great, the rifk of the lofs is proportional. The coafling barks, which make frequent trips from the adjacent ports, fupply the city with hogs, poultry, hung-beef, hogs'-lard, plantanes, roots, and other eatables ; with all which, this city, by the induftry of others, is abundantly fupplied. The Peru and Guayaquil veiVels, unlefs at the time when the armada is here, return empty, except when they have an opportunity of taking Negroes on board ; as, while the afliento fubfifts, there is at Panama a fadory, or office, which correfponds with that at Porto Bello ; and hither the Negroes are brought, as being, in fome meafure, the Itaple for them, with regard to the kingdoms of Terra Firma and Peru.. The prefident of Panama is inverted with a power of licenfing every year one or two fhips, which go to Sonfonate, el Realejo, and other ports in the province of Guatemala and New Spain, to fetch from thence tar, naphtha, and cordage, for the vcfTels belong- ing to the Panama trade ; they carry thither fuch parts of the Peruvian goods as do not find a market at Panama ; but few of the Ihips which have obtained this permilhon retuin immediately ; for the moft profitable part of their trade confiding of indigo, they make the befl: of their way to Guayaquil, or other ports farther to the fouthward. The dearnefs of provifions in this city and its diftrifl:, occafioned by the large quantity re- quired, and the great diftance from whence they are brought, is amply compenfated by the multitude and value of the pearls found in the oylters of its gulf; and particularly thofe near the iflands del Rey, Tabaga, and others, to the number of forty-three, form- ing L'LLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 38 1 ing a ftnall archipelago. The firfl to whom the Indians made this valuable difcovery was Bafco Nunez de Balboa, who, in his paflage this way, to make farther difcoveries on the South Sea, was prefented with fome by Tumaco, an Indian prince. At prefent they are found in fuch plenty, that there are few perfons of fubftance near Panama, who do not employ all, or, at leaft, part of their flaves in this filhery, the manner of which not being commonly known, it will not be improper to defcribe it here. The owners of the Negroes employ the moft proper perfons for this fifhery ; which being performed at the bottom of the fea, they mufl be expert fwimmers, and capable of holding their breath a long time. Thefe they fend to the iflands, where they have huts built for their lodgings, and boats which hold eight, ten,' or twenty Negroes, under the command of an officer. In thefe boats they go to fuch parts as are known to pro- duce pearls, and where the depth of water is not above ten, twelve, or fifteen fathom. Here they anchor ; and the Negroes having a rope faftened round their bodies, and the other end to the fide of the boat, they take with them a fmall weight, to accelerate their finking, and plunge into the water. On reaching the bottom, they take up an oyfter, , which they put under the left arm ; the fecond they hold in their left hand, and the third in their right : with thefe three oyfters, and fometimes another in their mouth, they rife to breathe, and put them in a bag. When they have relied themfelves awhile, and recovered their breath, they dive a fecond time ; and thus continue, till they have either completed their talk, or their llrength fails them. Every one of thefe Negro divers is obliged daily to deliver to his mafter a fixed number of pearls ; fo that when they have got the requifite number of oyfters in their bag, they begin to open them, and deliver the pearls to the officer, till they have made up the number due to their mafter ; and if the pearl be but formed, it is fufficient, without any regard to its being fmall or faulty. The remainder, however large or beautiful, are the Negro's own property, nor has the mafter the leaft claim to them ; the flaves being allowed to fell them to whom they pleafe, though the mafter generally purchafes them at a very fmall price. Thefe Negroes cannot every day make up their number, as in many of the oyfters the pearl is not at all, or but imperfeftly formed ; or the oyfter is dead, whereby the pearl is fo damaged, as to be of no value ; and as no allowance is made for fuch pearls, they muft make up their numbers with others. Befides the toil of this fifiiery, from the oyfters ftrongly adhering to the rocks, they are alfo in no fmall danger from fome kinds of fifli, which either feize the Negroes, or, by ftriking on them, crufli them by their weight againft the bottom. So that thefe creatures feem to know that men are robbing them of the moft valuable produfl of their element, and therefore make a moft vigorous defence againft their enemy. The fifhery on the whole coaft is obnoxious to the fame danger from thefe fifti ; but they are much more frequent where fuch riches abound. The ftiarks and tintoreras, which are of an enormous fize, feed on the bodies of thefe unfortunate fifliermen ; and the mantas, or quilts, either prefs them to death by wrapping their fins about them, or crufti them againft the rocks by their prodigious weight. The name manta has not been improperly given to this fifh, either with regard to its figure or property ; for being broad and long like a quilt, it wraps its fins round a man, or any other animal that happens to come within its reach, and immediately fqueezes it to death. This fifti refembles a thornback in fhape, but is prodigioufly larger. Every Negro, to defend himfelf againft thefe animals, carries with him a ftiarp knife, with which, if the fifh offers to affault him, he endeavours to ftrike it in a part where it has no power to hurt him ; on which the fifh immediately flies. The officers keep a watchful eye on thefe voracious creatures, and, on difcovering them, fhake the ropes 9 faftened 382 ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. faftened to the Negroes' bodies, that they may be upon their guard ; many, on the divers being In danger, have thrown themfelves into the water, with the Hke weapon, and haflen down to their defence : but too often all their dexterity and precaution is not fufficient to proteft the diver from being devoured by thefe fifli, or lofmg one of his legs or arms by their bite. Several inefFedlual fchemes have been pradtifed, to prevent fuch melancholy accidents. The pearls of thefe fiflieries are generally of a good water, and fome very remarkable, both in their fhape and fize ; but as there is a difference in both thefe properties, fo there is alfo a difference in their water and colour ; fome being highly valuable, and others as remarkably defedive. Some of thefe pearls, though indeed but few, are fent to Europe, the greater part being carried to Lima ; where the demand for them is very great, being not only univerfally worn there by all perfons of rank, but alfo fent from thence into the inland parts of Peru. Befides thefe pearls, the kingdom of Terra Firma was formerly equally remarkable for the fine gold produced by the mines in its territories ; and which confequently proved a very confiderable addition to its riches. Part of thefe mines were in the pro- vince of Veraguas, others in that of Panama ; but moif, alfo the richeft, and whofe metal. was of the fineft quality, were in the province of Darien ; and, on that account, the conftant object of the miners. But the Indians revolting, and making themfelves mafters of the whole province, there was a neceffity for abandoning thefe mines, by which means the greater part of them were loft ; a few only remaining on the frontiers, which ftill yield a fmall quantity of gold. Their produce might indeed be increafed, did not the fear of the fickle nature of the Indians, and the fmall confidence that can be placed on their apparent friendfhip, - deter the mafters of the mines from taking pro- per meafures for improving them. Though the mines of Veraguas and Panama are not expofed to thefe dangers, yef they are not worked with more vigour than the others ; and this for two reafons : the firft is, that, befides their being lefs rich in metal than the others, the gold they yield is not of fo good a quality as that of Darien : the fecond, and indeed the moft weighty, is, that as thefe feas, by their rich produce of pearls, offer a more certain, and at the fame time a more eafy profit, they apply themfelves to this fiftiery preferably to the mines. Some, indeed, though but few, are worked, befides thofe above mentioned, on the frontiers of Darien. Befides the advantage arifing to Panama from its commerce, as the revenue here is not equal to the difburfements, a very confiderable fum of money is annually remitted hither from Lima, for the payment of the troops, the officers of the audience, and others in employment under His Majefty. CHAP. VI. — Extent _of the yliidicnce of Panama, in the Kingdom of Terra Firma * THE city of Panama is not only the capital of its particular province, but alfo of the whole kingdom of Terra Firma, which confifts of the three provinces of Panama, Da- rien, and Veraguas. The firft is the feat of every branch of the government, as being fituated between the other two ; Darien lying on the eaft fide, and Veraguas on the weft. * The appellation of Terra Firma has been abfurdly extended by our mariners to Caraccas, &c. ^ The ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 383 The kingdom of Terra Firma begins northwards at the river of Darien, and ftretching along by Nombre de Dios, Bocas del Toro, Bahia del Almirante, is terminated weftward by the river de los Dorados in the North Sea ; and towards the South Sea, beginning on the weftern part, it extends from Punta Gorda, in Cofta Rica, by Punta de Mariatos, Morro de Puercos, to the gulf of Darien ; whence it continues fouthward along the coaft, by Puerto de Pinas, and Morro Quemado, to the bay of St. Bonaventura. Its length from eaft to weft is one hundred and eighty leagues, but if meafured along the coaft, it exceeds two hundred and thirty ; and its breadth, from north to fouth, is the fame as that of the ifthmus, which includes the whole province of Panama, and part of that of Darien. The narroweft part of this ifthmus is from the rivers Darien and Chagre, on the North Sea, to thofe of Pito and Camito on the South Sea : and here the diftance, from fea to fea, is about fourteen leagues. Afterwards it increafes in breadth towards Choco and Sitara ; and the fame weftward in the proraice of Veraguas, forming an interval of forty leagues from fea to fea. Along this ifthmu« run those famous chains of lofty mountains, called the Andes, which, beginning at fuch a prodigious diftance as the Terra Magellanica, traverfe the kingdom of Chili, the province of Buenos Ayres, and thence through the provinces of Peru and Quito ; and from the latter, contradl: themfelves, as it were, for a paifage through this narrow ifthmus. Afterwards, again widening, they continue their courfe through the provinces and kingdoms of Nicaragua, Guatemala, Cofta Rica, St. Miguel, Mexico, Guajaca, la Puebla, and others ; with feveral arms or ramifications, for ftrength- ening, as it were, the fouthern with the northern parts of America, In order to give the reader a comprehenfive idea of this kingdom, I fhall fpeak parti- cularly of each of its three provinces, beginning with that of Panama as the principal. Moft of its towns and villages are fituated in fmall plains along the ftiore, the reft of the country being covered with enormous and craggy mountains, uninhabited on account of their fterility. In this province are three cities, one town, a few forts, villages, and coimtry feats ; the names of which, with the tribes of the inhabitants, are here fubjoined. The cities are Panama, Porto Bello, and Santiago de Nata de los Cavelleros. The fituation of the latter was firft difcovered, in the year 1515, by captain Alonzo Perez de la Rua, at which time Nata was prince of this diftritt. Gafpar de Efpinofa was firft commiftioned to people it, under the title of a town. It was afterwards taken and burnt by the Indians, but he rebuilt it, and called it a city. It is large, but the chief houfes are only of earth, or unburnt bricks, and the others of mud walls. Its inhabitants are a mixture of Spaniards and Indians. The town called los Santos is a modern fettlement of Spaniards, who before lived at the city of Nata, but, with a view of augmenting their fortune by improving the ground, left the city ; and the inhabitants of the town are at prefent more in number than thofe of Nata. Its environs were firft difcovered by Rodrigo Valenzuela, and at that time contained an Indian town, governed by a prince called Guazan : the origin of the town fufficiently ftiews it is peopled by Spaniards and Indians. The number of villages in this province is very confiderable, and of different kinds. 1. Nueftra Senora de Pacora, to which we give the preference, is inhabited by Mulattos and their defcendants. 2. San Chriftoval de Chepo owes its name to the caciques, or princes, Chepo and Chepauri, and was difcovered in 1515, by Tello de Guzman. Befides Indians, here is 384 ULLOA*S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. is a company of foot, belonging to the garrifon of Panama, moft of whom are fettled here with their families. Several Rancherias, or aflemblages of Indian huts, are under the jurifdidion of a village. Thefe Rancherias are fituated to the fouthward, in the fmall chafms or breaches of the mountains. In the favannahs of the river Mamoni are feveral fuch aflemblages of huts, and within the fame jurifdiftion ; namely, On the river De la Campana. In the breach of Curcuti. On the banks and at the mouth of the river Canas. On the river Del Platanar. On the river de Pinganti. On the river De Bayano. In the breach De Terralbe. In that of Platanar. In that of Calobre. In that of Pugibay. In that of Marcelo. On the river de Mange. Under the jurifdiftion of the fame village are alfo the following Rancherias, fituated to the northwards. On the river Del Playon. On the fmaller river De la Conception. On the river de Guanacati. On the river Del Caco, or Mandinga. On the river De Sarati. 3. The village of San Juan, fituated on the road between Panama and Porto Bello, is inhabited by Mulattos and their defcendants. 4. The village of Nueftra Sinor de la Confolation, a Negro fettlement. 5. The village De la Santiflimx Trinidad de Chame, difcovcred by Captain Gonzalo de Badajoz, and called Chame from its prince at that time, is inhabited by Spaniards and Indians. 6. The village of St. Ifidro de Quinones, difcovered by the fame officer, and then governed by its prince Totronagua : its prefent inhabitants Spaniards and Indians. 7. The village of St. Francifco de Paula, in the Cordillera ; alfo inhabited by Spa- niards and Indians. 8. The village of St.Juan de Pononome, fo called from the name of its cacique; its inhabitants are Indians, who flill retain the bow and arrow, at which they are very dextrous, and of an intrepid bravery. 9. The village of Santa Maria is fituated in a traft of land difcovered by Gonzalo de Badajoz. The name of its laft prince was Efcolia ; it is at prefent wholly inhabited by Spaniards. 1 o. The village of Santo Domingo de Parita, the lafl word being the name of its prince. It was formerly inhabited wholly by Indians, but at prefent there are many Spaniards among them. 1 1 . Taboga, Taboguilla, and other iflands, near which the pearl fifheries are carried on, were difcovered by the order of Pedro Arias Davila, the firfl governor and captain- general of the kingdom of Terra Firma. In thefe iflands are houfes belonging to Spa- niards, and huts for the Negro divers. 12, The ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 385 12. The iflands del Rey were difcovered by Gafpar de Morales and Captain Fran- cifco Pizarro. In thefe iflands feme Spaniards have houfes, befides great numbers of Negro divers. Second Province of Terra Firma. The fecond province of this kingdom is that of Veraguas, of which the city of Santiago is the capital. The firft who difcovered this coaft was Admiral Chriftoplier Columbus, in 1503. To the river now called Veragua, he gave the name of Verdes- aguas, on account of the green colour of its water ; or, according to others, becaufe the Indians called it by that name in their language. But, however that may be, it is from this river that the province derives its name. In 1508, the Captains Gafpar de Efpinofa, and Diego de Alvirez, renewed the difcovery by land ; but being repulfed by prince Urraca, were obliged to content themfelves with a fettlement in the neigh- bourhood : and even here the Spaniards were not able to maintain their ground againfl the frequent incurfions of the Indians ; fo that, finding the abfolute neceflity of a ftronger fettlement, they built the city of Santiago de Veraguas on the fpot where it now ftands. Befides this city, the province contains two others, and feveral villages. The city of Santiago al Angel was founded in 1521 by Benedift Hurtado, governor of Panama : it has been twice deftroyed and rebuilt : the inhabitants partly Spaniards, partly Mulattos. The city of Nueftra Senora de los Remedios de Pueblo-Nuevo ; the inhabitants the lame as thofe of the former. 1 . The villages in this province are San Francifco de la Montana, inhabited by In- dians ufing bows and arrows. 2. San Miguel de la Haya, inhabited by different forts of people. 3. San Marcelo de Leonmefa de Tabarana, inhabited by Indians. 4. San Raphael del Guaymi, by Indians. 5. San Philipe del Guaymi, by Indians. 6. San Martin de los Caftos, by Indians. 7. San Auguftin de Ulate, by Indians. 8. San Jofeph de Bugava, by Indians. 9. and 10. La Piedad, and San Miguel, by Indians. 1 1. San Pedro, and San Pablo de los Platanares, by Indians. 12. San Pedro Nolofco, by Indians. 13. San Carlos, by Indians. Third Province of Terra Firma. The third province of Terra Firma is that of Darien, where the greater part of the inhabitants are wandering Indians, living without any religion, and in the mofl fhock- ing barbarifm, which was indeed the motive of their revolt. In 1 7 1 6, there was here a confiderable number of villages, Rancherias, and Dodrinas *, whofe inhabitants had fworn allegiance to the King of Spain, and therefore under the governors of Panama ; * A name, given by thejefuits, to Indian communities, which they have gathered together and 'jivihzed. i VOL. XIV. 3 D though, 386 ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. though, at prefent, very few are remaining. Thofe remaining in the above-mentioned year, were, 1. The village and ftaple for the mines of Santa Cruz de Cana, a very confiderable fettlement of Spaniards and Indians. 2. The village De la Conception de Sabalo, inhabited like the preceding, but lefs populous. 3. The village of San Miguel de Tayequa ; inhabitants the fame. 4. The village of San Domingo de Balfas, inhabitants like the others, being Spa- niards and Indians. 5. Spanifh village, in the territory of Santa Marica. 6. The Doftrina San Geronymo de Yabira, a word in the Indian language fignify- ing Doncel, i. e. a virgin ; and, for this reafon, the river near it is called Rio Doncel, or Virgin River. 7. San Enrique de Capeti, or the fleepy. 8. Santa Cruz de Pucro. In the Indian language, Pucro fignifies a fort of light wood, which, at Guayaquil, is called Balfa. 9. The Doftrina de San Juan de Tacaracuna, and Matarnati ; the names of two of the mountains of the Andes, contiguous to the community. 10. The Indian village of San Jofeph de Zete-Gaati, is not a Doftrina. Zete-Gaati is the name of a kind of willow growing in the neighbourhood. Rancherias and Hamlets in the Southern Parts. The hamlet of Nueflra Senora del Rofario de Rio Congo. Other hamlets on the rivers Zabalos, Balfas, and Uron. On the river Tapanacul. On the river Pucio. On the banks, and at the mouth of the river Paya. At Los Paparos, or the Peafants. On the river Tuquefa. On the river Tupifa. On the river Yabifa. And at Chepigana. Rancherias and Hamlets in the Nort/jern Parts. On the river Queno. On the Seraque. On the Sutagunti. On the Moreti. On the Agrafenequa. On the Ocabajanti. On the Uraba. All thefe Dodlrinas and communities were formefly of Indians, and not inconfider- able, fome of the latter confiding of four hundred perfons ; but their general number was between one hundred and fifty and two hundred ; from whence we may form an idea of the populoufnefs of thefe Doftrinas. But, to fave the trouble of computing 2 the ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 387 tTie feveral inhabited places in this kingdom, as I thought proper to infert their names, I ftiall conclude with a concife lifl: of all thefe places, which will affill the reader in forming fome idea of this country. Recapitulation of all the inhabited Places in the Kingdom of Terra Firma. Four fortrefles. Six cities. One town of Spaniards and Indians. f Eleven of Spaniard and Indians. ' Thirty-five villages - - "S Two of Mulattos and Negroes. (_ Twenty-two of Indians, moft of them Dodrinas. Thirty-two Rancherias or hamlets, each containing feveral cottages fcattered among the breaches, along the fides of rivers and favannahs. Forty-three iflands, where the pearl-filhery is carried on, fome of them in the bay of Panama, fome near the coaft of that city, and others fouth of Veraguas. BOOK IV. VOYAGE FROM PF.RICO HARBOUR TO GUAYAQUIL. CHAP. I. — Voyage from Perico to the City of Guayaquil. OUR tents and other neceflaries being ready, we all embarked on board the St. Chrif- topher, captain Don Juan Manuel Morel ; and the next day, being the 2 2d of Fe- bruary 1736, we fet fail ; but having little wind, and that variable, it was the 26th at funfet before we loft fight of the land, the laft we faw being Punta de Mala. By remarks repeatedly made till we loft fight of this laft point, and which agreed with obfervations, but differed from thofe by account, we found the fetting of the cur- rent to be fouth-weft 5° wefterly ; which obfervation correfponded with the accounts given us by able pilots, who afl'ured us it continued to three or four degrees of latitude ; and, according to their farther information, we corrected our daily account at one mile and one fixth per hour ; and found their information to be well founded. But it is neceffary to obferve, that, till our (hip was off Punta de Mala, there was no vifible cur- rent ; and that, whilft we continued failing in the gulf of Panama, the latitude by account agreed with the obferved. From the time we fet fail, till Punta de Mala bore from us north-weft 6° 30' wefterly, we continued to fteer S. S. W. i** 30' and S*' 30' wefterly: the winds variable with calms. After paffing Punta de Mala, we fteered S. between 8"^ wefterly and 2** 30' eafterly, till fix in the evening of the firft of P.larch 1736, when we difcovered the land conti- guous to St. Matthew's bay. Upon which we ftood to the S. W. to avoid a ledge of rocks, which runs three leagues into the fea, and alfo the currents, which fet towards it, and Gorgona bay. 3 D 2 This 38S CLLOa's VOYASE to south AMERICA. This ledge of rocks was difcovered in 1594, by a ftiip's ftriking on it. From St. Matthew's bay, we, for foine hours, fteered fouth-weft 6* 15' wefterlyj and the next day fouth-eaft and one-fourth foutherly ; which, being the third day, at one in the afternoon, brought us in fight of Cape St. Francis, bearing north one- fourth eafterly. According to the reckoning of Don George Juan, the difference of meridians between Panama, and Cape St. Francis was o*' 36'; which nearly agrees with the map of this coaft. It mufl, however, be fuppofed that the diftance between each knot on the log- line was forty-feven feet by five and an half royal inches, which is equal to fifty and an half Englifh feet : this confirms what we have already obferved, book I. chap. i. and proves the juflnefs of our obfervations on the currents. Having weathered this cape, we fteered weft 3 ° foutherly ; fouth-weft 3 " wefterly ; and on the 6th and 7th fouth 7" eafterly, and fouth-eaft 6^ eafterly ; till on the 7th, at eight in the morning, we again made Cape St. Francis, bearing north 5" eafterly, and Cape Paflado fouth ; after which we coafted along fliore, obferving the moft remark- able parts, till the 9th, when, at half an hour after three in the evening, we came to an anchor in Manta bay, in eleven fathom water, the bottom mud mixed with fand : Cape St. Lorenzo, bearing weft-fouth-weft and Monte Chrifto fouth-fouth-eaft 6° eafterly. Tvto reafons induced us to anchor here : the firft was, that as part of the intention of our original voyage was to meafure fome degrees of the equator, befides thofe of the meridian ; and having been informed at Panama of the fituation of this coaft, we were defirous of viewing it, in order to know whether, by forming our firft bafe on its plains, the feries of triangles could be continued to the mountains contiguous to Quito : the fecond, the want of water and provifions ; for the feafon being pretty far advanced, we had flattered ourfelves, while at Panama, with falling in with the brifas, and by that means of foon reaching Guayaquil ; and had therefore taken in provifions only for fuch a fhort voyage. In order to fatisfy ourfelves with regard to our firft and principal view, we all went on fhore on the loth in the evening to the village of Monte Chrifto, about two leagues and a half from the coaft. But we foon found any geometrical operations to be imprac- ticable there, the country being every where extremely mountainous, and almoft covered with prodigious trees, an infurmountable obftruftion to any fuch defign. - This being farther confirmed to us by the Indian inhabitants, we determined to purfue our voyage to Guayaquil^ and thence to Quito. Accordingly, on the i ith we returned to the coaft of Manta, where, whilft the fhip was taking in water and provdfion, we em- ployed ourfelves in making obfervations, by which we found the latitude of this place to be 56' 5I" fouth. But Meffrs. Bouguer and De la Condamine, reflecling that our ftay at Guayaquil would be confiderable before the feafon would permit the mules to come from Guaranda to carry us to the mountains, and defirous of making the beft ufe of their time, determined to Itay here, in order to make further obfervations on the longi- tude and latitude, that they might afcertain the place where the equator cuts this coaft, examine the length of the pendulum, and make other obfervations equally important. Accordingly proper inftruments were left with them. On the 13th of the fame month of March, our velfel put to fea, keeping along, the coaft, and paffed the next day within the ifland de la Plata. The 15th we began to k)fe fight both of Cape St. Lorenzo, and alfo of the ifland ; at one in the afternoon we fteered fouth-fouth-eaft, till the 17th, when we difcovered Cape Blanco, the fouth point of the Bay of Guayaquil. From Cape Blanco we coafted along the bay, till, about noon on the 18th, coming to the mouth of the river Tumbez, we 9 anchored tJLLOA's VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMElUCA, -^Sgi anchored about half a league from the land ; the river's mouth bearing eaft five degrees northerly, and the ifland of Santa Clara, commonly called Amortajado, or Muerto, from its refembling the figure of a human corpfe, north four degrees eafterly, in four- teen fathoms water, and a muddy bottom. Some particular affairs of the captain of the ftip obliged us to remain here till the 2oth, when, at fix in the morning, we weighed ; and at half an hour after fix in the evening, the ftrength of the current on the ebb obliged us to come to an anchor. Thus we continued anchoring every ebb, and failing during the flood. And here we found that the current always fets out of the bay, though with much lefs velocity on the flood than on the ebb ; for we obferved that the tide never altered its diredion in nineteen hours and a half. The caufe of this phenomenon is fuppofed to be, the prodigious quantity of water difcharged into it by the rivers. On the 23d, having come to an anchor off Punta de Arenas in the ifland of Puna, we fent on fliore for a pilot to carry in our fliip ; for, though the diftance was only feven leagues, the great number of fliallows in this fliort paffage rendered a precaution of this kind prudent, if not abfolutely neceffary ; ahd on the 24th, at feven in the morning, we fafely anchored in Puna harbour, Cape Centinela bearing fouth-fouth-wefl: 2° 30' weflerly, and Cape Maria Mandinga wefl:-north-wefl; 1° 15' weflierly, difl:ant one quarter of a league. From Punta de Mala to St. Matthew's bay, we had the wind firfl: at north, and north-weft ; afterwards it fliifted to the north-eaft, and during the laft day veered to the eaft-north-eaft ; but when we came in fight of this bay, changed again to north, being preceded by rains, which continued till our arrival at Manta, the winds having fliifted to the fouth-eaft, fouth, and fouth-weft and weft, but with fome variations from all thofe points. I have already mentioned that at St. Matthew's bay it was not only the opinion of the pilots relating to the currents which fet towards Gorgona, but alfo our own experience, that induced us to alter our courfe, which was neceffary, in order to continue our voyage. All the reft of the coaft, from Cape St. PVancis to Manta, they fet to the north, and this prevented us from getting to windward, and obliged us to tack, as the wind was contrary. In our paffage from Manta to Cape Blanco, the winds were not lefs favourable, continuing as before, except a few gales at north-weft and north-north-eaft, till we made the above cape. The currents here alfo fet to the northward, and from Cape Blanco to Puna harbour, to feaward, that is, towards the weft ; but, as we have before obferved, a greater velocity on the ebb than on the flood. Being very defirous of obferving an eclipfe of the moon, which was to happen on the 26th of March, and our time for preparing for it being but fliort, we con- cluded to ftay at a little village fituated in this harbour ; but finding thefe houfes, which were entirely built of canes, too weak to fupport the pendulum, we determined to make the beft of our way to Guayaquil ; and accordingly, at half an hour after eleven at night we left the fhip at anchor, and went to the city in a boat ; and, at five in the evening of the 25th, by the vigour of our rowers, we arrived at Guayaquil, notwithftanding the ftrength of the tide againft us. Here we imme- diately applied ourfelves to fettle the pendulum ; but our diligence was entirely fruf- trated, the air being fo filled with vapours, that nothing was to be feen. It may not be aniifs here to infert the variations we obferved in different parts of the South Sea, in the fame order with thofe obferved from Cadiz to Carthagena. A Tabk 39° DLLOA S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. A Table of Variations ohferved in fever al Parts of the South Sea, the Lofigitude reckoned from the Meridian of Panama. Latitudes. Longitude. Variation. deg. min. deg. min. deg. min. 8 17N. 359 55 8 45 E. 7 49 359 42 7 34 7 30 359 31 7 49 7 02 359 18 7 59 3 55 ZS^ 21 7 34 56 358 43 7 20 36 359 06 8 29 20 358 40 7 25 15 358 56 7 30 22S. 359 50 8 17 r Monte Chrifto, "^ 051 i bearing S. E. i > L foutherly J 8 00 Ifland de la Plata, bearing fouth ^ 1 5° 45 ' wefterly, and Monte > 7 46 Chrifto, E.S.E. 3 2 18S. 1 8 00 Cape Blanco, S.S.W. 3 30 W. Punto de Mero, E. 7° northerly 7 diftant three leagues 3 8 T r\c\ U i.\j\j On the coaft of Sumber,of which ^ the latitude by obfervation was > 8 II 3° «4' ) We fhould, for feveral days, have been without knowing certainly the latitude, an objeft of the laft importance in any voyage, had not Mr. Qodin had the pre- caution to take with him a Hadley's quadrant. This ingenious gentleman having been pitched upon for the voyage to America, undertook a journey to London, purely to purchafe feveral inftruments, and among others bought that already mentioned, and which proved of the greateft ufe to us in finding the latitude during this paffage ; a point the more difficult and neceflary, on account of feveral perplexing circum- ftances, the courfe being fometimes north, fometimes fouth, and the currents fetting in the fame direftion. Affifted by this inftrument, we were enabled to take the meridian altitude of the fun, whilft, from the denfity of the vapours which filled the atmofphere, the fhadow could not be defined on the ufual inftruments. CHAP. II. — Account of the Voyage from Perica to Puna. THE brifas, by their return, as we before obferved, occafion an alteration in the weather of Panama, by introducing the fummer, as they alfo do in the paffage from Perjco ULLOa's voyage to SOUTfl AMKUICA. 39I Perico to Puna, or more properly, to Cape Blanco ; for, after the brilas have begun to blow at Panama, they gradually increafe and fpread in oppofition to the fouth winds, till, overcoming them, they are fettled : but their periods are not always equal, either on the land or in the ocean. Generally the brifas do not reach beyond the equator, or are fo faint, as often to be interrupted by calms, or other weak and unfettled winds. Sometimes, indeed, they have an extraordinary ftrength, being felt even to the ifland of Plata : but their greateft force is gradually increafed as we approach nearer to Pana- ma. Thefe winds, which blow from between the north and north-eaft, clear the atmo- fphere, free the coaft from fogs, and are not attended with tempefls of rain ; but fre- quently fo fqually, efpecially between Cape Francifco and the I3ay of Panama, that, without particular care and the utmoft difpatch in putting the fhip in a proper condition, they are often dangerous. At the period of the brifas, the fures or fouth winds begin to blow, and, when fettled, are more violent than the former. But they do not, as many have imagined, blow al- ways precifely from the fouth ; for they fhift from the fouth-eaft even to the fouth-weft, and their diftance from the fouth is obferved to be greateft at particular times. When they incline to the fouth-eaft, which is the land fide, they are accompanied with violent, but happily fhort tempefts of wind and rain. The fhips which trade from the coafts of Peru and Guayaquil to Panama, generally fail during the fures, in order to take the benefit of the north wind at their return, and, by that means their voyages are eafily and expeditioufly performed. Sometimes, indeed, they fail with other winds, though they are generally longer at fea, in order to reach Paita ; but often this diligence, or rather avarice, is fo far difappointed, that they are obliged ta put in at Tumaco, Aca- mes, Manta, or Punta de Santa Elena, for provifions and water. Thefe are the principal winds in this paffage ; and whatever changes may fometimes happen, they are not of any continuance, the fettled wind foon recovering its place. The currents in thefe parts are not fo regular as the winds ; for, during the brifas, the waters run from Morro de Puercos fouth-weft and weft, to the height of Malpelo ; and from thence eaft and eaft-fouth-eaft to Cape St. Francis, inclining fomething towards Goigona. From Cape St. Francis, their direftion is fouth and fouth-weft, which con- tinues for thirty or forty leagues feawards, the ftrength of them being proportionate to that of the brifas. During the feafon of the fures, or fouth winds, the currents run north and north-weft from Punta de Santi Elena, as far as Cape St. Francis, extending thirty or forty leagues feawards ; fi-om hence they run with a great velocity eaft, as far as the meridian of Malpelo ; and from Morro de Puercos fouth-eaft along the coaft, though at fome dif- tance from it, and tending partly to the bay of Gorgona. But from the meridian of Malpelo to Morro de Puercos, they run with great violence north-weft and weft. Alfo in the paftage from Cape Blanco to Cape Santa Elena, a violent current runs weft from the river of Guayaquil, during its fwellings ; but when the river is low, the current fets into Puna bay : the time of the former is during the brifas, and the latter in the feafon of the fures. At all times, in leaving Perico to fail to Guayaquil, or the coaft of Peru, care muft be taken to keep at a proper diftance from the ifland of Gorgona, many inftances having happened of fliips being loft either by this negligence, or more frequently, by calms. It is alfo equally neceffary to be careful of the ifland of Malpelo ; but the latter is of the two the leaft dangerous, as the greateft detriment is only a longer delay of the voyage. 392 ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. If a fhip happens to come in fight of the ifland of Gorgona, it will be found very difficult to get clear of it by {leering either fouthfouth-weil, or even north, fo that the furefl: method is to return towards Panama along the coaft, the currents there changing their direftion ; at the fame time taking care not to keep at a great diftance from it, to avoid being again carried away by the current, which fets fouth-eafl. The land all along the coaft from Panama to Santa Elena is of a middling height, except in fome parts, where we difcern mountains at a vaft diftance, and very high ; being part of the Cordillera. Monte Chrifto is the land-mark of Manta, being a high mountain, and having a village of the fame name at its foot. In the bays along this coaft, and particularly at the mouths of rivers, it is dan- gerous to keep clofe to the ftiore, there being many ftiallows not known even to the pilots of the country. In the bay of Manta, there is one at the diftance of three or four leagues from the fliore, on which feveral ftiips have ft ruck ; but the water is here fo fmooth, that all the damage they fuftained was, their being obliged to be immediately careened, in order to ftop the leaks occafioned by the accident. In all this paflage a rough fea is feldom met with ; for, if it be fometimes agitated by fqualls and ftiort tempefts, it foon fubfides after the ftorm is over. . Whilft the fouth winds prevail, fogs are very frequent, and fometimes fo thick as totally to pre- elude all fight of the coaft. This we ourfelves partly experienced in our paflage : whereas during the brifas, it is quite the contrary : the air is ferene, and the coaft fo clear as to be approached with confidence and fafety. CHAP. III. — Of our Stay at Guayaquil, and the Meafures taken for our Journey to the Mountains. THE ftiip St. Chriftopher, which we left at Puna, followed us fo foon, that on the 26th in the evening ftie came to an anchor before the city ; the next day all our baggage and inftruments were landed, and we began our obfervations for determining the fituation of Guayaquil, with regard to its latitude and longitude. The defire of fucceeding rendered us very attentive to obferve an immerfion of the fatellites of Jupiter, to make amends for our difappointment of the eclipfe of the moon ; but we were in this equally unfortunate ; the denfity of the vapours which filled the atmofphere ren- dered our defign abortive ; but, the days being more favourable than the nights for aftronomical obfervations, we took feveral meridian altitudes of the fun, and never neglefted any opportunities that offered, during the nights, of doing the fame with regard to fome particular ftars. On our arrival at Guayaquil, the corregidor of that city, whofe great civility, together with that of all the King's officers and other perfons of diftinftion, deferves our acknowledgments, fent notice of it to the corregidor of Guaranda, that he might order carriages to the port of Caracol, for conveying us to the mountains. The piifage thither was then indeed impracticable ; it being in this country the end of winter, at which time the roads are extremely bad, and the rivers fwelled fo as not to be forded without the greateft riik, and too wide for the bridges of this country. The corregidor of Guaranda was then at Quito on fome bufinefs of his office ; but the prefident and governor of that province, Don Dionyfio de Alcedoy Herrera, ordered him to return to his jurifdiftion without delay, for providing every thing necef. fary for our journey ; fending, at the fame time, circular orders to all the other corre- gidors, through whofe jurifdiftions we were to pafs to Quito, enjoining them not to be wanting ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. 393 T^antlng in any kind of good office in their power. Every thing being thus happily difpofed, and advice arriving that the mules were on their way to Caracol, where they arrived the 6th of May, we were no lefs expeditious to embark on the river, which is the ufual paflage. There is indeed a road by land ; but at all times extremely diffi- cult and dangerous, on account of the many bays and large rivers which mufl be palled ; fo that no perfon travels this road but in fummer, and then only fuch as have "no baggage, and are, befides, well acquainted with the country and the ferries, CHAP. IV. — Defcr'tption of Guayaquil. THOUGH there is no certainty with regard to the time when Guayaquil was founded, it is univerfally allowed to be the fecond city of Spanifh origin, both in its own province and the kingdom of Peru ; it appearing, from antient records preferved in its archives, that it was the next city founded after San Miguel de Piura : and the foundation laid of Los Reyes, Remac, or Lima, being in 1534, or according to others, in 1535, the building of Guayaquil may be fixed between thofe two years; but the prolperity it attained under its governor Belalcazar, was of no long continuance, being, after feveral furious attacks, entirely deftroyed by the neighbouring Indians. It was however in 1537, rebuilt by Captain Francifco de Orellana. The firft fituation of Guayaquil was in the bay of Charapoto, a little to the northward of the place where the village of Monte Chrilto now flands ; from whence it was removed to the prefent fpot, which is on the weft bank of the river of Guayaquil, in 2" 11' 21" of fouth latitude, as appeared from our obfervations. Its longitude was not determined by any accurate obfervations; but by computing it from thofe made at Quito, it is 297° 17', reckoning from the meridian of Teneriffe. On its removal by Orellana, from its firft fituation, it was built on the declivity of a mountain called Cerillo Verde, and is now termed Ciudad Vieja, or ihe old town. Its inhabitants being afterwards ftraitened by the mountain on one fide, and by ravines or hollows made by floods of rain on the other, formed a defign, without entirely abandoning the place, to build the principal part of the city at the diftance of five or fix hundred toifes ; which was accordingly begun in 1693; and for preferving a communication with the old part, a bridge of timber was erected, of about three hundred toifes in length, by which means the inconveniences of the ravines are avoided, and, the intervals being filled with fmall houfes, the old and new towns are now united. This city is of confiderable extent, taking up, along the bank of the river from the lower part of the old town to the upper part of the new, near half a league ; but the breadth is not at all proportional, every perfon being fond of having a houfe near the river, both for the amufements it affords, and for the benefit of refrefliing winds, which, in winter, are the more eagerly coveted as they are very rare. All the houfes of both towns are built of wood, and many of them covered with tiles ; though the greater part of thofe in the old town are only thatched ; but in order to prevent the fpreading of fires, by which this city has feverely fullered on feve- ral occafions, fuch covering is now prohibited. Molt of thefe conflagrations owed their rife to the malevolence, of the negroes, who, in order to revenge fome punifh- ments inflifted on them by their mafl:ers, took the opportunity, during the night, of throwing fire on the thatch, and by that means, not only ruined thofe who were the immediate objetls of their revenge, but alfo the greater part of the inhabitants of the city. VOL. XIV. 3 K Though 394 ULLOA S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. Though the houfes are wholly built of wood, they are generally large and beautiful ; have all one ftory and an entrefole ; the back part of the ground floor ferves for warehoufes ; in the front are fhof>s of all kinds, and generally before them fpacious porticos, which in winter are the only parts where you can walk, the ftreets being utterly impaflable. As a further precaution againft fire, which they have fo much reafon to dread, the kitchens fl:and twelve or fifteen paces from the houfes, with which they communi- cate by means of a long open gallery, refembling a bridge ; but fo lightly built, that on the leafl: appearance of fire in the kitchen, it is demoliflied in an infliant ; by which means the houfe , is preferved. Perfons of rank and fortune live in the upper apartments, and the entrefoles are let to ftrangers who come to trade, or pafs through the city with their goods. The ground on which the new city is built, and the favannahs in its neighbour- hood, are not to be travelled over either on foot or horfeback during the winter ; for, befides being a fpongy chalk, it is every where fo level, that there is no declivity for carrying off the water ; and therefore on the firfl: rain, it becomes one general flough. So that, from the time of the rains fetting in till the end of \vinter, it is neceffary to lay in the parts not covered by the above-mentioned piazzas, very large planks for crofTmg over them ; but thefe foon become flippery, and occafion frequent falls into the chalky flough. The return of fummer, however, foon exhales the water, and renders the ground fufliciently dry for travelling. In this refpefl; the old town has the advantage, being built on a gravelly foil, which is never impaflable. This city is defended by three forts, two on the river near the city, and the third behind it, guarding the entrance of a ravine. Thefe are all built after the modern method of fortification ; but before they were erefted, it had only a platform, which is ftill remaining in the old town. Thefe forts are built of large pieces of very hard wood, forming a variety of pallifades, and the wood is particularly proper for this country, and the ufe it is here applied to ; retaining its folidity either under the water or in the mud. Before thefe fortifications were erefted, the city was taken by Euro- pean corfairs, in the year 1686 and 1709 ; but the fuccefs of the latter was owing to the villainy of a mulatto, who, in order to revenge himfelf on fome particular per- fons in the city, conduced the enemy through a bye-way, where they were not expefted ; fn that the inhabitants being furprifed, were not prepared for defence. All the churches and convents are of wood, except that of St. Domingo, fl:ill (landing in the old town, which is of fl:one ; the great folidity of the ground in that part being fufiicient for fupporting buildings of this kind. The convents in the new city, befides the parochial church, are an Auguftine and a Francifcan, with a college of Jefuits ; the members of them not very numerous, on account of the fmallnefs of the revenues. Here is alfo an hofpital, but without any other endowment than the fliell of the build- ing. The city and its jurifdidion are under a corregidor, nominared by the King, who holds his ofiice during five years. Notwithflianding he is fubordinate to the prefident and audience of Quito, he appoints the deputies in the feveral departments of his jurifditlion ; and, for the police and civil government, Guayaquil has ordinary alcaldes and regrdores. The revenue is managed here by a treaiurer and an accomp- tant, who receive the tributes of the Indians, the duties on imports and exports, and the taxes on commodities, which are either confumed there, or carried through it. The ecclefiaftical government is lodged in the bifliop of Quito's vicar, who is gene- rally alfo the prieft of the town. CHAP. ULLOA S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. 395 CHAP. V. — Of the Inhabitants, Cujiofns, and Riches of Guayaquil. GUAYAQUIL contains, in proportion to its dimenfions, as many inhabitants as any city in all America ; the continual refort of ftrangers, drawn thither by commerce, contributing very greatly to iucreafe the number, generally computed at twenty thou- fand. A great part of its eminent families are Europeans, who have married there ; befides which, and fubllantial Creoles, the other inhabitants are of different carts, as in the cities already defcribed. The inhabitants capable of bearing arms, are divided into companies of militia, according to their rank and cart ; fo that on occafion they may be ready to defend their country and property. One of thefe, confifting entirely of Europeans, and called the foreign company, is the moft numerous, and makes the moft fplendid appearance among the whole militia. Without confidering their wealth or ftation, they appear in arms, and pay a proper obedience to their officers, vho are chofen by themfelves from their own body, being generally fuch as have ferved in Europe, and confequently more expert in military affairs. The corregidor is the commander in chief; having under him a colonel and major, for difciplining the other companies. Though the heat here is equal to that of Panama, or Carthagena, yet the climate diftinguilhes itfelf in the colour of the human fpecies ; and if a certain author has ftyled it the equinodial Low Countries, in allufion to the refemblance it bears to the Nether- lands ot Europe, it may, with equal propriety, bear that appellation from this Angu- larity, namely, that all the natives, except thofe born from a mixture of blood, are frefh-coloured, and fo finely featured, as juftly to be ftyled the handfomeft, both in the province of Quito, and even in all Peru. Two things are here the more remarkable, as being contrary to common obfervation : one, that notwithftanding the heat of the climate, its natives are not tawny ; the other, that though the Spaniards have not naturally fo fair a complexion as the nothern nations, their children bom here of Spa- nifti women are very fair ; nor has this phenomenon hitherto been fufficiently explained. To attribute it to the effluvia exhaling from the contiguous river, appears to me little fatisfaftory ; other cities having the fame advantageous fituation, without producing any improvement in the complexions of the inhabitants ; whereas here fair perfons are the moft common, and the children have univerfally light hair and eye-brows, and very beautiful faces. To thefe perfonal advantages beftowed by nature in a diftinguiftied manner on the inhabitants, it has added the no lefs pleafing charms of elegance and politenefs ; fo that feveral Europeans, who intended only a ftiort ftay here, have married and fettled ; nor were their marriages ovdng to the immenfe fortunes of their ladies, as in fome other cities of this country, the inhabitants not being at all famous for their riches. The drefs of the women at Guayaquil nearly rei'embles that at Panama, except only when they either pay or receive a vifit ; inftead of the pollera, they wear a faldellin, which is no longer than the pollera, but being open before, and croffing one fide over the other, is adorned in the moft protufe manner. It is furbeloed with a richer ftuff, near half a yard in depth, and bordered with fine laces, gold or fringe, or ribands, difpofed with an air which renders the drefs extremely rich and becoming. When they go abroad without a veil, they wear a light brown-coloured mantelet, bordered with broad ftrips of black velvet, but without laces or any other decorations. Befides necklaces and bracelets, they wear rofaries, of the fame degree of richnefs as 3 E 2 at 396 ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. at Panama ; and not only load their ears with brilliant pendants, but add tufts of black filk, about the fize of a filbert, and fo full of jewels, as to make a very fplendid appearance. From the commerce of this city, a llranger would imagine it richer than it actually is. This is partly owing to the two dreadful pillages it has fullered, and partly to fires, by both which it has been totally ruined. And though the houfes here, as already obferved, are only of wood, the whole charge of which is the cutting and bringing it to the city ; yet the expence of a houfe of any figure amounts to fifteen or twenty thoufand dollars, workmen's wages being very high, and iron remarkably dear. Eu- ropeans, who have raifed any thing of a fortune here, when they have no immoveable gi'ods to detain them, retire to Lima, or fome other city of Peru, where they may improve their flocks with greater fecurity. CHAP. VI. — Of the Temperature of the Air, ami the different Seaforu at Guayaquil ; its Inconveniences and Dijicmpers. IN Guayaquil, the winter fets in during December, fometimes at the beginning,, fometimes in the middle, and fometimes not till the end of the month, and lails till April or May. During this feafon, the elements, the infects, and vermin, feem to have joined in a league to incommode the human fpecies. Its extreme heat appeared from fome thermometrical experiments ; for, on the 3d of April, when its intenfenefs had begun to abate, at fix in the morning the liquor flood at one thoufand and twenty-two; at noon at one thoufand and twenty-five ; and at three in the afternoon at one thoufand and twenty-feven ; which fhews the heat in the middle of winter to be greater than at Carthagena. The rains alfo continue day and night, accompanied with frequent and dreadful tempefts of thunder and lightning ; fo that every thing feems to confpire to dilf refs the inhabitants. The river, and all thofe which join it, overflow their bankp>, and lay under water the whole country. The long calm renders the refrefliing winds- very defirable ; and the innumerable fwarms of infetls and vermin infefl both the air and ground in an intolerable manner. The fnakes, poilbnous vipers, fcorpions, and fcolopendras, in this feafon find methods of getting into the houfes, to the deflruttion of many of the inhabitants. And though they are not actually free from them all the reft of the year, yet at this time they are far more numerous, and alfo more adive ; fo that it is abfolutely neceffary to examine carefully the beds, fome of thefe animals having been known to find their way into them : and both as a fafeguard againll; the danger, and to avoid the tortures of the mofchitos and other infeds, all perfons, even the Negro flaves and Indians, have toldos or canopies over their beds. Thofe ufcd by the lower clafs of people are matle of tucuyo, or cotton, wove in the mountains : others ufe white linen laced, according to the temper or ability of the owner. Though all thefe hot and moift countries fwarm with an infinite variety of volatile infeds, yet the inhabitants are no where fo greatly incommoded as at Guayaquil, it being impolTible to keep a candle burning, except in a lantern, above three or four minutes, numberlefs infeds flying into its flame and extinguifl^ing it. Any perfon therefore being obliged to be near a light, is foon driven fom his port by the infinite numbers which fill his eyes, ears, and noflrils. Thefe infeds were almolt infupportable to us, during the Ihort clear intervals of fom.e nights, which we fpent in making obfervarions . on the heavenly bodies. Their flings were attended with great tortures j and more than UliOA's VOYAGE TO SOUTH AJfERICA. 397 than once obliged us to abandon our obfervations, being unable either to fee or breathe for their multitudes *. i^nother terrible inconvenience attending the houfes here, are the numbers of peri- cotes, or rats ; every building being fo infefted with them, that, when night comes on, they quit their holes, and make fuch a noife in running along the ceiling, and in clam- bering up and down the fides of the rooms and canopies of the beds, as to difturb per- fons not accuflomed to them. They are fo little afraid of the human fpecics, that, if a candle be fet down without being in a lantern, they immediately carry it off; but, as this might be attended with the mofl melancholy confequences, care is taken, that their impudence is feldom put to this trial, though they are remarkably vigilant in taking advantage of the lealt neglect. All thefe inconveniences, which feem infupportable to flrangers, and alone fufficient to render fuch a country uninhabited, little affe£t the natives, as having been ufed to them from their infancy : they are more affeded with cold on the mountains, which the Europeans fcarce feel, or, at leafl, think very mode- rate, than with all thefe difagreeable particulars. The leaft tioublefome feafon is the fummer, as then both the number and activity of thefe vermin are diminilhed ; it being a miftake in fome authors to fay they abound mod in that feafon. The heat is then abated, by the fetting in of the fouth-well and welt-fouth-weft breezes, called here chandui, as coming over a mountain of that name. Thefe begin conftantly at noon, and continue to refreih the earth till five or fix in the following morning. The fky is always ferene and bright, the geiitlefl fhowers being rarely known. Provifions are in greater plenty, and thofe produced in the country of a very agreeable tafte, if ufed while frefh. Fruits are more common, efpecially melons and water-melons, which are brought in large balzasf to the city. But the capital advantage is the remarkable falubrity of the air in that feafon. During the winter, tertian fevers are very common, and are here particularly painful and dangerous, owing partly to negled:, and partly to an averfion to the ufe of the bark, being prepofleffed with a notion, that on account of its hot quality it can have no good effect in that climate ; fo that, blinded with this prejudice, without ever confulting phy- ficians, who would undeceive them, they fuffer the diftemper to prey upon them, dli they are often reduced to an irrecoverable ftate. The natives of the mountains, who are inured to a cold air, canii' t endure that of Guayaquil, it having a natural tendency to debilitate them ; and by an intemperate ufe of its delicious fruits they throw themfelves into thofe fevers, which are as common to them in one feafon as another. Befiiies this dileafe, which is the moll general, fince the year 1 740 the black vomit has alfo made its appearance, the galleons of the South Sea having, on account of the war, touched here 111 order to fecure the treafure among the provinces of the Cordillera. At that time great numbers died on board the Ihips, together with many foreigners, but very few of the natives. In faying that the galleons brought this diftemper to Guay- aquil, I follow the general opinion, as it was before that epoclia unknown there. The natives are very fubjefl: to cataracts, and other diltempers of the eye, which often caufe a total bhndnefs. Though thefe diftempers are not general, yet they are much more common than in other parts ; and I am inclined to think it proceeds from the aqueous exhalations during the winter, when the whole country is overflowed with water, and which, from the chalky texture of the foil, muft be vifcid in the highell * T!iis account is too hyperbolical. They are, however, troublefome enough, and almoft infuppottable^ througiiout all South America, except in the plains and defetts. A. f Called by the natives jungadas : they are rafts made by pinning or tying feveral bodies of fmaH trees together : the author dei'cribes them particularly in the next chapter. A. degrees 5 298 OLLOA S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. degree ; and, penetrating the external tunic, not only foul the cryftalline humour, but alfo cover the pupil, from whence catarafts, and other diforders of the eyes, have their origin. CHAP. VII. — Provijions, mid Manner of Living at Guayaquil. HERE, as at Carthagena, nature and neceflit)' have introduced feveral kinds of bread, •made from different grains and roots, to fupply the want of wheat. The mofl ufual here is the criollo, or natural bread, being unripe plantanes, cut into flices, roafted, and ferved up as bread. But this is not entirely owing to neceffity, as feveral kinds of meal might eafily be brought from the neighbouring mountains in fulBcient quantities to fup- ply all the inhabitants of the city ; though only a fmall fhare of it would fall to the lot of the poor, on account of the price, which valtly exceeds that of the plantanes. However this be, the latter are defervedly preferred to wheat bread, which is fo badly made, that even the Europeans refufe to eat it, and accuftom themfelves to the criollo, which is far from being unpalatable. Mofl of the other provifions, except beef, fruits, and roots, are imported from the provinces of the Cordilleros and Peru. It would naturally be expected, that the feve- ral branches of this river, which abounds in fifh, would caufe a great plenty of them in the city ; but it is quite otherwife, and the fmall quantify caught near it is far from being good, and fo bony, that none but the inhabitants can eat them without danger. Their badnefs in the neighbourhood of the city is probably owing to the brackifh water ; but fome leagues above the city, the river affords a great fupply of what is very excel- lent. In fuch hot climates, however, they cannot be kept without fait ; and it is feldom the fifhermen venture to carry any to the city, left, after all their labour, they fhould be obliged to throw them away. The coafts and neighbouring ports abound in very delicious fifh, fome of which are carried to the city, as keeping better than the fpecles in the river ; and thefe, together with feveral of the teftaceous kind, conftitute a confiderable part of the food of the inha- bitants of Guayaquil. In the fait creek are taken very large and fine lobfters, of which they make delicious ragouts : and from Jambeli creek, on the coaft of Tumbez, are brought great quantities of oyflers, which, in every refpeft, furpafs thofe of all the coafts from Panama to Peru, where there is alfo a great demand for them. The fame caufe \\ hich drives from that part of the river near the city the fineft fifh, fome to the fait and others to the frelh waters, according to their refpedive natures, ren- ders good water very fcarce at Guayaquil, efpecially in fummer ; none being to be had at a lefs diftance than four or five leagues up the river, according to the height of its waters. Many balzas are therefore employed in fetching water, and felling it to the inhabitants. During the winter, this trade is partly at a ftand, as, by the increafe of the rivers, the water at Guayaquil is rendered fit for ufe. Inftead of lard, as at Carthagena and other places, they commonly ufe, in drefling their food at Guayaquil, beef fuct. But whether the climate will not permit the beafts to acquire a proper degree of fatnefs, whether the fuet itfelf be not good, or whether they are carelefs in feparating it from the tallow; the fmell and tafte of both are much the fame, which render their difhes extremely naufeous to ftrangers ; and what is little bet- ter, they feafon all of them with Guinea pepper, which, though fmall, is fo very ftrong, that the fmell of it, when whole, fufliciently declares its furprifing activity ; fo that pcr- fons, not accuftomed to it, fufier either way. If ihey eat, their mouths feem in a fiama; if ULLOA S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. 399 if they forbear, they muft endure hunger, till they have overcome their averfion to this feafoning ; after which they think the Guinea pepper the fineft ingredient in the world for giving a relifh to their food. The inhabitants of Guayaquil affecl greater fplendour in their formal entertainments ; but the method of them is not very agreeable to an European gueft. The firft courfe confifls of different kinds of fweetmeats, the fecond of high-feafoned ragouts ; and thus they continue to ferve up an alternate fucceffion of fweet and high-feafoned difhes. The common drink on thefe occafions is grape brandy, there called Aqua ardiente de Caf- tilla, cordials and wine : of all which they drink freely during the entertainment, height- ening the pleafure by the variety ; but the Europeans generally prefer wine. The cuftom of drinking punch has lately increafed confiderably in this city ; and, when drunk in moderation, is found to agree very well with the conftitutlons of this climate. Accordingly it has obtained greatly among perfons of diftinftion, who gene- rally drink a glafs of it at eleven, and again in the evening ; thus allaying their thirft, and at the fame time correcting the water, which, befides the difagreeable tafte com- municated to it by heat, promotes an exceffive perfpiration : and this cuftom is fo pre- vailing, that even the ladies pundually obferve it ; and the quaijtity both of acid and fpirit being but fmall, it becomes equally wholefome and refrelhing. CHAP. VIII. — Extent of the Jurifdidion of Guayaquil. THE moft northern part of the jurifdiction of Guayaquil begins at Cape Paffado, fo called from its lying 21' fouth of the equinoftial, and about half a degree north of the bay of Manta. From this cape it continues all along the coaft, including the ifle of Puna, to the town of Machala on the coaft of Tumbez, where it is terminated by the jurifdidtion of Piura. From thence it runs away eaftward, and is bounded by that of Cuenca ; and then, turning northwards along the weftern fkirts of the Andes, it termi- nates on thofe of Bamba and Chimbo. Its length, from north to fouth, is about fixty leagues, and its breadth, from eaft to weft, forty or forty-five ; reckoning from the point of Santa Elena to the parts called Ojibar. Its whole country, like that in the neighbourhood of the city, is one continued plain, and in winter univerfally overflow- ed. It is divided into feven lieutenancies or departments, for each of which the corre- ridor appoints a lieutenant or deputy, who, however, muft be confirmed by the audi- ence of Quito. Thefe departments are, Puerto Viejo, Punta de Santa Elena, Puna, Yaguache, Babahoyo, Baba, and Daule. The lieutenancy de San Gregorio de Puerto Viejo is bounded northward by the go- vernment of Atacames, and fouthward by the lieutenancy of Santa Elena. Its capital of the fame name, though fmall, thinly peopled, and poor, enjoys the privileges of a city, and includes the towns of Monte Chrifto, Picoafa, Charapoto, and Xipijapa. Thefe have their particular priefts, who are likewife the fpiritual directors" of all the fmaller villages in this diftrift. The town 'of Monte Chrifto ftood at firft in the bay of Manta, and was called by that name. It had then a confiderable commerce by means of veffels pafling from Pa- nama to the ports of Peru ; but, having been pillaged and deftroyed by fome foreign adventurers, who infefted thofe feas, the inhabitants removed it to the foot of Monte Chrifto, where it now ftands, and from whence it has its name. Some tobacco is planted in this jurifdidion, but is not much efteemed j and the reft of its produfts, as wax, cotton, and pita, are barely fufficient to fupport its inha- 9 ^ bitants. 400 LLLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. titatits, though they are far from being numerous ; occafioned by the general poverty which reigns through all its towns and villages. The kinds of timber natural to fuch hot and moifl countries grow here in prodigious quantities. Formerly along the coaft, and in the bay belonging to this lieutenancy, was a confider- able pearl fifliery ; but it has been totally difcontinued for fome years ; occafioned partly from the dangers the divers were expofed to, from the mantas and tintoreas already defcribed ; and partly from the poverty of the inhabitants of this country, who, being in general Indians and cafts, want ability to purchafe Negroes for this occupation. The bay has probably its name from the great number of mantas in thofe parts, efpe- cially as the common employment of the inhabitants is the taking of that tilh, which they fait, and carry into the inland provinces. The Europeans cannot help admiring their dexterity in this kind of fifhery, which they carry on in the following manner : they throw into the v.ater a log of wood, fuch as they ufe in making a balza, being about five or fix yards in length, and near a foot in diameter, and fufficient to bear the weight affigned it, which is a net lying acrofs one end of it, while an Indian ftands in an erect pofition on the other ; and, by help of a canalete or oar, puts off to fea, to the diflance of half a league ^or more, where he fhoots his net. Another Indian, who follows him on a fimilar log, takes hold of the rope faftened to one end of the net ; and when the whole is extended, they both move towards the land, where their part- ners wait to draw the net aihore. And here one cannot help obferving with aftonifh- ment the dexterity and agility of the Indians, in maintaining an equilibrium on round logs, where, by the continual agitations of the fea, they muil be always changing their pofition, and making different motions with their body ; and what ftili heightens the difficulty is, that he is obliged, at the fame time, to mind both his oar and the net, in drawing it towards the land. They are indeed excellent fwimmers ; fo that if they happen (which is very feldom) to flip off, they are foon on the log again, and in their former pofture ; at leaft, they are in no danger of being fliipwregked. I fliall place Punta de Santa Elena as the fecond lieutenancy, becaufe it joins to the fouth part of the former. It extends all along the weftern coaft from the ifles of Plata and Salango, to the fame Punta de Santa Elena ; from thence it Ifretches along the north coaft, formed by the bay of Guayaquil ; comprehending in this extent the towns of Punta, Chongon, Morro, Colonche, and Chandui. At Chongon and Morro two priefts relide, to whofe parifhes the others belong. The lieutenant, invefted with the civil government, rcfides in the town of Punta, two leagues from the port, where there are indeed warehoufes, or rather fheds, for receiving fait and other goods, but no dwelUng- houfes. The port of Punta has fo many falt-works, that it fupplies the whole province of Quito and jurifdiction of Guayaquil. The fait is not the finefl, but remarkably com- paft, and anfwers very well the principal intention, that of falting flefli. On the coafl belonging to this lieutenancy is found that exquifite purple, fo highly efteemed among the ancients ; but the fifli from which it was taken, having been either unknown or forgotten, many moderns have imagined the fpecies to be extinft. This colour, however, is found in a fpecies of fhell-fifh growing on rocks wafhed by the fea. They are fomething larger than a nut, and are replete with a juice, probably the blood, which, when expreffed, is the true purple; for if a thread of cotton, or any thing of a fimilar kind, be dipt in this liquor, it becomes of a moft vivid colour, which repeated wafhings are fo far from obliterating, that they rather improve it ; nor does it fade by wearing. The jurifdiction of the port of Nicoya, in the province of Guatemala, alfo affords this fpecies of turbines, the juice of which is alfo uled in dying cotton threads, 8 and, ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 401 and, in feveral parts, for ribands, laces, and other ornaments, StuiFs dyed with this purple are alfo highly valued. This precious juice is extracted by different methods. Some take the fifh out of its fhell, and, laying it on the back of their hand, prefs it with a knife from the head to the tail, feparating that part of the body into which the compreffion has forced the juice, and throw away the reft. In this manner they proceed, till they have provided themfelvet, with a fufficieut quantity. Then they draw the threads through the liquor, which is the whole piocefs. But the purple tinge does not immediately appear, the juice being at firfl of a n ilky colour ; it then changes to green ; and, laftly, into this celebrated purple. Otuers purfue a different method in extradling the colour ; for they neither kill the fifli, nor take it entirely out of its fhell ; but fqueeze it fo hard as to exprefs a juice, with which they dye the thread, and afterwards replace the fifh on the rock whence it was taken. Some time after it undergoes a fecond operation ; but without yielding fo much juice as at firfl ; and at the third or fourth very little, by which means the fifh is exhaufted beyond recovery. In 1 744, being in the lieutenancy of Santa Elena, I had the fatis- faftion to fee this liquor extra£ted according to the firfl: procefs, and fome threads dyed with it. This purple is far from being fo common as fome authors have imagined ; for, though the fifh increafes, yet fo large a quantity is neceflary to dye a few ounces of thread, that little of it is feen ; and, indeed, its great price is partly owing to its fear- city. Another circumftance worthy of obfervation, and which increafes or diminifhes the value, is the difference of weight and colour of the cotton dyed with it, according to the different hours of the day. I could not find any fatisfadtory account of this property at Punta de Santa Elena, where the inhabitants, being lefs curious, have not carried their fpeculations fo far as to be acquainted with this remarkable fingularity ; whereas at Nicoya it is fo well known, that the dealers in it, both buyers and fellers, are exadly acquainted with the times of its increafe or decreafe, fo that one of the firfl preliminaries to a contract is, to fettle the time when it fhall be weighed. From this alteration of the weight of the purple thread at Nicoya it may be inferred, that the fame happens at Punta de Santa Elena ; the turbines at both places being exaftly of the fame fpecies, and without the leafl vifible difference in colour. Another very remark- able particular relating to its tincl:, and which I have heard from perfons of undoubted veracity, is, that the colour of a thread of flax is very different from that of a thread of cotton. It would, therefore, be proper, to make repeated experiments, on threads of filk, flax, and wool. Some, by faying that the fifh, from whence this dye is extrafted, breeds in a fhell, by which either the flat or acaracolada or fpiral may be underflood ; it may not be im- proper to remark that it is the lall fpecies, and, accordingly, the cotton tinged with this juice, is called Caracolillo. This department alfo abounds in fruits, cattle of all kinds, wax, and fifh ; fo that the inhabitants have very profitable motives for induflry ; accord- ingly it is very populous, and though it does not abound in towns, the number of in- habitants far exceeds that of the preceding government, and the harbour of Punta is much frequented by veflels, that is, by fuch as trade between Panama and the ports of Peru, in order to purchafe different kinds of provifions, as calves, kids, fowl, and other kinds, of which there is here a great plenty. Velfels belonging to the merchants of Guayaquil of two hundred tons, load here vnth fait ; a trade which, from the cheap- nefs of that commodity, turns to a very good account. The next lieutenancy fouthward is Puna, an ifland in the mouth of Guayaquil river. It extends north-eaft and fouth-weft between fix and feven leagues, and is of a quadri- lateral figure. According to an ancient tradition, its inhabitants were once between twelve and fourteen thoufand : but, at prefent, it has only one fmall town, fituated at VOL. XIV. -J F the 4©» ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. the head of its harbour in the north-eaft part ; and the few inhabitants confift chiefly of cafts, and fome Spaniards, but very few Indians. To this lieutenancy has been annexed the town cf Machala, on the coafl of Tumbez, together with that of Naran- jal, the landing-place of the river of the fame name, called alio the Suya ; near which is a road leading to the jurifdiftions of Cuenca and Alaufi. But neither of thefe towns is in a more flourifliing condition than that on the ifland. In the latter refide both the lieutenant and prieft, to whom the others are fubject, both in civil and ecclefiaflical affairs ; Puna not only being the principal town, but great ftips, by reafon of the depth of its harbour, load there, which cannot be done at Guayaquil, on account of the far d in its river ; while others come there to load with wood. The jurifdiclions of Machala and Manaraiijol produce great quantities of cacao, and that of the former is efteemed the beft in all Guayaquil. In its neighbourhood, as in the ifland of Puna, are great numbers of mangles, or mangrove trees, whofe interwoven branches and thick trtinks cover all thofe plains ; which, lying low, are frequently overflowed. As this tree is little known in Europe, it mufl: not be pafled over without a fhort dcfcription. The mangrove is fo far different from other trees, that it requires a foil daily over- flowed by the fea. Accordingly, when the water is ebbed away from the fpots where the mangroves thrive, they exhale very difagreeable effluvia from their muddy furface. This tree no fooner appears above the ground, than it divides itfelf into very knotty and diftorted branches ; and from each knot germinates a multitude of others, increafmg fo as to form, when grown up, an impenetrable thicket. Nor is it pofTible to difcern the fhoots belongiiig to the principal branches ; for, befides this entangled labyrinth, thofe of the fifth or fixth produdlion are equal in magnitude to thofe of the firfl, which is generally of an inch and a half or two inches in diameter ; and all fo flexible, that the only method of fevering them is by fome edged tool. Though they extend them- felves nearly horizontally, yet the trunk and principal branches increafe both in height and thicknefs. Its leaves are very fmall, in proportion to the branches, not being above an inch and a half or two inches in length, oval, thick, and of a pale green. The ufual height of the principal flems of the mangrove is eighteen or twenty yards, ten or twelve inches in diameter, and covered with a thin, rough bark. But its wood is fo folid and heavy, that it fmks in water, and, when ufed in fhips or vefTeis, is found very durable, being not fubjeft either to fplit or rot.* The Indians here pay their annual tribute m the wood of the mangrove, which is ufed occafionallv in fuch works as its nature is beft adapted to. The lieutenancy of Yaguache is at the mouth of the river of the fame name, which falls into that of Guayaquil on the fouth fide ; and has its rife from the fkirts of the Cordillera, fouth of the river Baniba. Its jurifdittion contains three towns ; the princi- pal, that where the cuftom-houfe is erected, is San Jacinto de Yaguache ; the two others are Noufa and Antonche. To thefe belong two priefts, one rtfiding at Yaguache, and the other at Noufa. Though thefe towns are but thinly inhabited, the farms and coimtry have great numbers, particularly of the poorer fort. The chief production of Yaguache is wood, and a little cacao : but cattle and cotton are the principal objetis of their attention. * The mangrove (hoots out collateral branches, which bend down, take root, and put out others which do the fame, fo that one tree in a few years ( overs a large fpace of ground. Thole fteois tliat are within the reach of high-water mark are generally covered with a Imail kind of oyftcr, called Mangrove-oyfters, which are eaten by the natives. The bark of the tree is ufed to tan leather, in which it Tucceeds very well, but gives the leather a much higher cclour than oak bark. A. lo Babahoyo, ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 403 Babahoyo, a name fufficlently known in all thefe countries, it being the feat of the grand cuftom-houfe for every thing going into the Cordillera, or coming from thence, has a very large jurifdidion, in which, befides the principal town, are thofe of Ujiba, Caracol, Quilea, and Mangaches ; the two laft border on the Cordillera, and are a con- fiderable diftance from Ujiba, where the prieil refides during the winter, removing in the fummer to Babahoyo, which, befides its fettled inhabitants, has always a great number of traders from other parts. The country of this jnrifdictinn, being level and low, on the firfl: fwellings of the rivers Caluma, Ujiba, and Caracol, is overflovi'ed to a prodigious diftance, though at different depths, particularly at Babahoyo, where the waters rife to the firft ftory of the houfes, fo that during the winter k is entirely foifaken. The country of this jurifdidion, as well as that of Baba, contiguous to it, abounds in fuch numbers of cacao plantations, that many are negledted, and their fruit left to the monkies and other animals, which are thus happily provided for by the fpontaneous fertihty of the ground, without any aiTiftance from agriculture. It alfo produces cot- ton, rice, Guinea pepper, and a great variety of fruits. It has likewife large droves of black cattle, horfes, and mules, which, during the time the country is under water, are kept in the mountains ; but, as foon as the lands are dry, are driven down to fatten on the gamalotes, a plant of fuch luxuriance, as to cover entirely the ground ; its height exceeds two yards and a half. It alfo grows fo thick, as to preclude all paffage, even along the paths made by the traders. The blade of the gamalote refembles that of barley, but longer, broader, thicker, and rougher. The green is deep, but lively, and the ftalk diverfified with knots, from which the leaves, which are ftrong, and fomething above two lines in diameter, have their origin. When the gamalote is at its full growth, the height of water during the floods, by rifmg above its top, preffes it down, and rots it, fo that, when the waters ebb away, the earth feems covered with it ; but at the firft impreflion of the fun it fhoots again, and in a few days abounds in the fame plenty as before. One thing remarkable in it is, that, though it proves fo nourifhing to the cattle of this diftri£t, it is very noxious to thofe from the Cordillera, as has been often experienced. Baba is one of the largeft lieutenancies of Guayaquil, reaching to the fldrts of the Cordillera, or the mountains of Anga Marca, belonging to the jurifdiftion of Lata- cunga, or, according to the Indian pronunciation, Llatacunga. Befides the princi- pal town of the fame name, it has others annexed to it, fo far as to be under one prieft, who, with the corregidor's lieutenant, refides continually at Baba. Formerly, the river of the fame name ran clofe by this town ; but Don En Vinces having cut a canal for watering the cacao plantations on his eftate, the river inclining more to this courfe than its former, it was found impofiible to ftop it ; fo that, leaving its original channel, it has ever fmce continued to run in a courfe fome diftance from the town. The other two places are San Lorenzo and Palenque, both at a great diftance from the capital, and near the Cordillera, fo that their Indian inhabitants are but little civilized. The cacao tree, which, as I have already obferved, abounds in this diftrift, inftead of being only four or five, a:ccrding to fome authors, who poffibly law it when very young, is generally not lefs than eighteen or twenty feet high. It begins from the ground to aivide itlelf into four or five ftems, according to the vigour of tlie root, from whence they all proceed. They are generally between four and feven inches in dia- meter ; but theii firft growth is in an oblique direction, fo that the braiiches are all ex- panded and feparated from one another. The length of the leaf is between four and 3 F 2 fix 4-04 ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. fix inches, and its breadth three or four. It is very fmooth, foft, and terminates in a point, like that of the China orange tree, but with feme difterence in colour, the former being of a dull green, and has nothing of the glofs obfervable on the latter ; nor is the tree fo full of leaves as that of the orange. From the ftem, as well as the branches, grow the pods which contain the cacao. The firft appearance is a white bloilom, not very large, whofe piftil contains the embryo of the pod, which grows to the length of fix or feven inches, and four or five in breadth, refembling a cucumber in fhape ; and ftriated in a longitudinal diredlion, but deeper than the cucumber. The pods are not precifely of the above dimenfions, nor are they always proportionate to the fleni or branch, to which they adhere in the form of excrefcences, fome being much fmaller ; and it is not extraordinary to fee one of the leaft fize on the principal trunk, and one prodigioufly large near the extremity of a flender branch. But it is obferved that, when two grow in contaft, one of them attrafts all the nutritive juice, and thrives on the decay of the other. The colour of the pod while growing is green, nearly refembling that of the leaf, but when arrived at its full perfeftion, it gradually changes to a yellow. The fhell which covers it is thin, fmooth, and clear. When the fruit is arrived at its full growth, it is gathered ; and being cut into flices, its pulp appears white and juicy, with fmall feeds regularly arranged, and at that time of no greater confiftence than the rtft of the pulp, but whiter, and contained by a very fine delicate membrane, full of liquor, refembling milk, but tranfparent, and fomething yifcid ; at this time it may be eaten like any other fruit. Its tafte is a fweetifli acid ; but in this country is thought to be promotive of fevers. The yellownefs of the pod indicates that the cacao begins to feed on its fub- ftance, to acquire a greater confiftence, and that the feeds begin to fill ; the colour gradually fading till they are fully completed, when the dark-brown colour of the fhell, into which the yellow has deviated, indicates that it is a proper time to gather it. The thicknefs of the fhell is now about two lines, and each feed found inclofed in one of the compartments formed by the tranfverfe membranes of the pod. After gathering the fruit, it is opened, and the feeds taken out and laid on fkins kept for that pur- pofe, or more generally on vijahua leaves, and left in the air to dry. When fully dried, they are put into leather bags, fent to market, and fold by the carga or load, which is equal to eighty-one pounds ; but the price is far from fixed, being fometimes fold for fix or eight rials per carga, though lefs than the charge of gathering : but the general price is between three and four dollars, and, at the time of the armadas, when the demand is very l«rge, rifes in proportion. This tree produces its fruit twice a year, and in the fame plenty and goodnefs. The quanlity gathered throughout the whole jurifdiftion of Guayaquil amounts at leaft to 50,000 cargas. The cacao trees delight fo exceffively in water, that the ground where they are planted mult be reduced to a mire, and, if not carefully fupplied with water, they die. They muft alfo be planted in the fliade, or at leaft defended from the per- pendicular rays of the fun ; accordingly, they are always placed near other larger trees, under the flielter of which they grow and flouiifh. No foil can be better adapted to the nature of thefe trees than that of Guayaquil, as it favours them in both refpefts ; in the former, as confifting wholly of favannahs or wide plains, over- flovved in winter, and in fummer plentifully watered by canals; and, with regard to the latter, it abounds in other trees, which afford them the requifite fhelter. Ail the care neceiTiry in the culture of this free confifts in clearing the ground from the weeds and ihrubs abounding in fo wet a foil : and this is fo ncceffary, that, if 1 2 negleded, ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 405 neglected, in a few years thefe vegetables will deftroy the cacao plantations, by robbing the foil of all its nourifhment. The laft lieutenancy to be defcribed, is that of Daule. The principal town is of the fame name, and waflied by the river, to which it owes its appellation. It contains many fpaclous houfes belonging to the inhabitants of Guayaquil. It is alfo the refidence of a lieutenant and a parifh prieft, having under their infpedion the two towns of Santa Lucia and Valfar. Here are a great number of plantations of tobacco and fugar-canes, cacao, and cotton ; together with large orchards of fruit-trees, and extenfive corn-fields. The river Daule, which, like that of Baba, difcharges itfelf into Guayaquil river, is very large, and on both a great trade is carried on with that city. By the former, it receives the great plenty and variety of fummer fruits, and a confiderable part of the plantanes, which conftitute the bread ufed there during the whole year. Though great quantities of tobacco grow in other parts of the jurifdiftion of Guayaquil, yet none equals that of Daule. The bufinefs of grazing is followed in all thefe lieutenancies ; but more or lefs, in proportion to their extent, the nature of the foil, and the conveniency of driving the cattle to the mountains, beyond the reach of the inundations. CHAP. IX. — Defcription of the River of Guayaquil, and of the Veffels trading on it. THE river of Guayaquil being the channel of the commerce of that place, it will be proper to give fome account of it, in order to afTift the reader in forming an idea of the trade carried on in that city. The diftance of the navigable part of this river, from the city to the cuftom-houfe at Babahoyo, the place where the goods are landed, is, by thofe who have long frequented it, commonly divided into reaches, of which there are twenty, its courfe being wholly ferpentine ; but to Caracol, the landing-place in winter, there are twenty-four reaches, the longeft of which are the three nearefl the city ; and thefe may be about two leagues and a half in length, but the others not above one. Whence it may be inferred, on an average, that the diftance, meafured on the furface of the river, between Guayaquil and the cuftom-houfe of Babahoyo, is twenty-four leagues and a half, and to Caracol twenty-eight and a half. The time requifite to perform this paiTage is very different, according to the feafon, and nature of the velfel. During the winter, a chata generally takes up eight days in going from Guayaquil to Caracol, being againft the current of the river ; whereas two days are fufficient to perform the paifage downwards. In fummer a light canoe goes up in three tides, and returns in little more than two ; the fame may be faid of other veffels, the paffage downwards being always performed in much lefs time than the other, on account of the natural current of the river, in the reaches near the cuftom-houfe, where the ftrongeft flood only ftops the water from running downwards. The diftance from Guayaquil to Ifla Verde, fituated at the mouth of the river in Puna bay, is by pilots computed at about fix leagues, and divided, like the other part, into reaches ; and from Ifla Verde to Puna three leagues : fo that the whole diftance from Caracol, the moft inland part up the river, to that ot Puna, is thirty-feven leagues and a half. Between Ifla Verde and Puna it widens fo prodigioufly, that the horizon towards the north and fouth is bounded by the fl^y, except in fome few parts northwards, where the plantations of mangroves are perceived. The 4o6 ulloa's voyage to south America. The mouth of the river at the Ifla Verde is about a league irt breadth, and even fomething broader at Guayaquil, above which it contracts itfelf as it advances nearer the mountains, and forms other creeks, the mouth of one of which, called Eftero de Santay, faces the city ; another, termed Lagartos, is near the cuflom-houfe at Baba- hoyo. Thefe are the largeft, and at the fame time extend to fuch a diilance from the principal river, as to form very confiderable iflands. The tides, as we have before obferved, in fummer-time reach np to the cuftom-houfe, checking the velocity of the waters, and confequently caufing them to fvvell ; but, in winter, the current being flronger and more rapid, this increafe of the water is vifible only in the reaches near Guayaquil ; and in three or four different times of the year the great velocity of the current renders the tides imperceptible : the firll of this feafon happens about Chriftmas. The principal caufe of the fwellings of this river arifes from the torrents rufliing down from the Cordillera into it. For though rain is frequent here, great part of the water is received by its lakes, or ftagnates on the plains : fo that the increafe of the river is en- tirely owing to the torrents from the mountains. - One particular inconvenience of thefe floods is, their fhifting the banks of fand lying between the city and Ifla Verde ; fo that no fliips of any confiderable burden can go up with fafety, without continually founding with the lead, unlefs care has been taken to mark the banks fmce their lafl; change. The borders of this river, like thofe of Yaguache, Baba, and Daule, as well as thofe of the creeks and canals, are decorated with country-feats, and cottages of poor people of all cafts, having here both the convenience of fifliing and agriculture ; and the in- termediate fpaces filled with fuch a variety of thickets, that art would find it difficult to imitate the delightful landfcape here exhibited by nature. The principal and mofl; uncommon materials ufed in buildings on thefe rivers, are Canes, whofe dimenfions and other particulars fliall be taken notice of in their place. Thefe alfo form the inward parts, as walls, floors, and rails of the flairs ; the larger houfes differ only in fome of the principal pieces, which are of wood. Their method of building is, to fix in earth, eight, ten, or twelve pieces of wood, more or lefs, according to the dimenfions of the houfe, forked at the top, and of a proper length, all the apartments being on the firfl; ffory, without any ground floor. Beams are then laid acrofs on thefe forks, at the diflance of four or five yards from the ground. On thefe beams canes are laid in fuch a manner as to form a kind of rafters, and over thefe boards of the fame canes a foot and a half in breadth, which form as firm and handfome a flooring as if of wood. The partitions of the feveral apartments are of the fame materials, but the outer walls are generally latticed, for the free admiflion of the air. The principal beams of the roof of large houfes are of timber, the rafters of cane, with fmaller, in a tranfverfe cirettion, and over thefe vijihuu leaves.* Thus a houfe is built at very little expenfe, though containing all the neceflFary conveniences. "With regard to the poorer fort, every one's own labour fuffices to procure him a habitation. He goes up a creek in a fmall canoe, and from tlie firfl wood cuts down as many canes, vijahuas, and bejucos,t as he wants, and, bringing the whole to the fliore, he makes a balza or float, on which he loads his other marerials, and falls down the river to the place where he intends to ere*^ his cottage. After which, he begins his work, faflening with bejucos thofe parts which are ulually nailed j and, * This leaf is tlircc or four feet tong, and about one broad. A. ■}- A long pliant twig, ufed as a cord by the nalives ; defcribed Book V. Ch. I. A. ^ in ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. 407 in a few days, finlfties it in the completefl manner. Some of thefe cottages are almoft equal in dimenfions to thofe of timber. The lower part, both of thefe houfes, as well as thofe in the greater part of the jurifdiclion of Guayaquil (which are of the fame form), are expofed to all winds, being entirely open, without having any wall, or fence, except the polls or ftancheons by which the building is fupported. For whatever coft was expended on the ground floor, it would be wholly ufelefs in the winter, when all the country is turned to mud. Such houfes, however, as ftand beyond the reach of inundations, have ground floors, walled and finifhed like the other apartments, and ferve as warehoufes for goods ; but thofe within the inundations are built, as it were, in the air, the water having a free paffage under them. All the inhabitants have their canoes for pafling from one houfe to another, and are fo dexterous in the management of thefe fkiffs, that a little girl ventures alone in a boat fo fmall and flight, that any one lefs fkilful would overfet in ftepping into it, and without fear crofles rapid currents, which an expert failor, not accuflomed to them, would find very difEcult. The continual rains in winter, and the flightnefs of the materials with which thefe houfes are built, render it neceflary to repair them during the fummer ; but thofe of the poorer fort, which are low, mufl: be every year rebuilt, efpecially thofe parts which confift of cane, bejuco, and vijahua, while the principal ftancheons, which form the foundation, ftill continue ferviceable, and able to receive the new materials. From the houfes I proceed to give an account of the velfels, which (omitting the chatas and canoes as common) are called Balzas, i. e. rafts. The name fufficiently explains their conftruftion, but not the method of managing them, which thefe Indians, ftrangers to the arts and fciences, have learned from necefllty. Thefe Balzas, called by the Indians Jungadas, * are compofed of five, feven, or nine beams of a fort of wood, which, though known here only by the name of Balza, the Indians of Darien called Puero ; and, in all appearance, is the ferula of the Latins, mentioned by Columella ; Pliny takes notice of two fpecies of it, the leffer by the Greeks called Nartechia, and the larger Narthea, which grows to a great height. Nebrija calls it in Spanifli Canna Beja or Canna Heja. Don George Juan, who faw it growing in Malta, found no other difference betwixt it and the Balza or Puero, only the Canna Beja, called ferula by the Maltefe, is much fmaller. The Balza is a whitifh foft wood, and fo very light, that a boy can eafily carry a log of three or four yards in length and a foot in diameter. Yet, of this wood are formed the Janjaries or Balzas, already mentioned. Over part of it is a ftrong tilt formed of reeds. Inftead of a maft, the fail is hoifted on two poles or fheers of mangrove wood, and thofe which carry a forefail have two other poles eretSled in the fame manner. Balzas are not only ufed on rivers, but fmall voyages are made at fea in them, and fometimes they go as far as Paita. Their dimenfions being different, they are alfo applied to different ufes ; fome of them being fifhing Balzas ; fcuie carry all kinds of goods from the cuftom-houfe to Guayaquil, and from thence to Puna, the Salto de Tumbez, and Paita ; and others, of a more curious and elegant conftruftion, ferve for removing families to their eibtes and country-houfes, having ;he fame convenience as on flioie, not being the leaft agitated on the rivtr ; and that they have fufiicient room for accommodations, may be inferred from the length of the beams, which are twelve or thirteen toifes and about two feet or more in diameter : fo that the nine * They are the fame that are called Catamorans in the Eaft Indies. A. beams 408 IJLLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. beams of which they confift, form a breadth of between twenty and twenty-four Paris feet ; and proportional in thofe of feven, or any other number of beams. Thefe beams are fafl:ened or lafhed together by bejucos, and fo fee u rely, that with the crofs-pieces at each end, which are alfo lafhed \vith all poffible ftrength, they refifl: the rapidity of the currents in their voyages to the coafl of Tumbez and Paita. The Indians are fo fkilful in fecuring them, that they never loofen, notwithflanding the continual agitation ; though by their negledt in examining the condition of the bejucos, whether they are not rotten or worn, fo as to require others, there are fome melan- choly inflances of Balzas, which, in bad weather, have feparated, and, by that means, the cargo loft, and the pafl'engers drowned. With regard to the Indians, they never fail of getting on one of the beams, which is fufficient for them to make their way to the next port. One or two unfortunate accidents of this kind happened even while we were in the jurifdicEtion of Quito, purely from the favage careleiTnefs of the Indians. The thickefl beam of thofe which compofe the Balza, is placed fo as to projeft bejond the other in its after-part ; and to this are laflied the firft beams on «ach fide, and thus, fucceffively, till the whole are fecured ; that in the middle being the prin- cipal piece, and thence the number of beams is always odd. The larger fort of Balzas generally carry between four and five hundred quintals, without being damaged by the proximity of the water ; for the waves of the fea never run over the Balza ; nei- ther does the water fplafh up between the beams, the Balza always following the motion of the water. Hitherto we have only mentioned the conftrudion and the ufes they are applied to ; but the greateft fmgularity of this floating vehicle is, that it fails, tacks, and works as well in contrary winds, as fhips with a keel, and makes very little lee-way. This advantage it derives from another method of (leering than by a rudder ; namely, by fome boards, three or four yards in length, and half a yard in breadth, called Guaras, which are placed vertically, both in the head and (tern between the main beams, and by thruft- ing fome of thefe deep in the water, and raifing others, they bear away, luff up, tack, lie to, and perform all the other motions of a regular (hip : an invention hitherto un- known to the moft intelligent nations of Europe, and of which even the Indians know only the mechanifm, their uncultivated minds having never examined into the rationale of it. Had this method of fleering been fooner known in Europe, it would have alleviated the didrefs of many a (hipwreck, by faving numbers of lives; as in 1730, the Genovefa, one of His Majedy's frigates, being loft on the Vibora, the (hip's com- pany made a raft ; but committing themfelvcs to the waves, without any means of direding their courfe, they only added fome melancholy minutes to the tern^ of their exiftence. Such affecting inftances induced me to explain the reafon and foundation of this method of fleering, in order to render it of ufe in fuch calamitous jundures; and, that I may perform it with the greater accuracy, I (hall make ufe ot a fliort memoir, drawn up by Don George Juan. The diredlion, fays he, in which a (hip moves before the wind, is perpendicular to the fail, as Melf. Renau, in the Theorie dc Manoeuvres, chap, ii.'' art. i. Bernoulli, cap. i. art. 4. P/Vo/, fe£l. ii. art. 13. have demonftrated. ^nd re-adtion being contrary and equal to the aftion, the force with which the water oppofes the motion of the veffel, will be applied in a perpendicular diredion to the fail, and continued from lee- ward to windward, impelling with more force a greater body than a fmaller, in pro- portion to the fuperficies, and the fquares of the fines of the angle of incidence, lup- pofing their velocities equal. Whence it follows, that a Guara being (hoved down in the ULLOA*S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. / 409 the fore-part of the veflel, muft make her lufF up ; and by taking it out, (he will bear away or fall off. Likewife on a guara's being flioved down at the flern, (he will bear away ; and by taking it out of the water, the balza will luff, or keep nearer to the wind. Such is the method ufed by the Indians in fleering the balzas ; and fometimes they ufe five or fix guaras, to prevent the balza from making lee-way ; it being evident, that the more they are under water, the greater refiftance the fide of the veffel meets with ; the guaras performing the office of lee-boards, ufed in fmiiU veffels. The method of fleering by thefe guaras is fo eafy and fimple, that when once the balza is put In her proper courfe, one only is made ufe of, raifing or lowering it as accidents require ; and thus the balza is always kept in her intended diredion. We have before obferved, that this river and its creeks abound in fifh, which for fome time in the year afford employment for the Indians and Mulattos inhabiting its banks, and for which they prepare towards the end of fummer, having then fown and reaped the produce of their little farms. All their preparatives confift in examining their balzas, giving them the neceffary repairs, and putting up a frefh tilt of vijahua leaves. This being finifhed, they take on board the neceffary quantity of fait, har- poons, and darts. With regard to their provifion, it confifls only of maize, plantanes, and hung-beef. Every thing being ready, they put on board the balzas, their canoes, their families, and the little furniture they are maflers of. With regard to the cattle and horfes, of which every one has a few, they are driven up to winter in the mountains. The Indians now fleer away to the mouth of fome creek, where they exped to take a large quantity of fifh, and flay there during the whole time of the fifhery, unlefs they are difappointed in their expeftations ; in which cafe they fleer away to another, till they have taken a fufficient quantity, when they return to their former habitations ; but not without taking with them vijahua leaves, bejucos, and canes, for making the neceffary repairs. When the communication is opened with the provinces of the Cor- dilleras, and the cattle begin to return into the plains, they carry their fifh to the cuflom-houfe of Babahoyo, where they fell it ; and with the produce, purchafe baize, tucuyo, and other fluffs, for clothing themfelves and families. Their method of fifhing is thus : Having moored their balza near the mouth of a creek, they take their canoes, with fome harpoons and fpears, and on fight of a fifh make towards it, till they arrive at a proper diflance, when they throw their fpear at it with fuch dexterity, that they feldom mifs ; and if the place abounds in fifh, they load their canoes in three or four hours, when they return to their balzas to fait and cure them. Sometimes, efpecially in places where the creeks form a kind of lake, they make ufe of a certain herb called Barbafco, which they chew, mix with fome bait, and fcatter about on the water. The juice of this herb is fo flrong, that the fifh on eating a very iittle of it become inebriated, fo as to float on the furface of the water, when the Indians have no other trouble than to take them up. This juice is adlually fatal to the fmaller fifli, and the larger do not recover for fome time ; and even thefe, if they have eaten a confiderable quantity, perifh. It is natural to think, that fifh caught in this manner mufl be prejudicial to health : but experience proves the con- trary, and accordingly the mofl timorous make no difficulty of eating them. Their next method of fifhing is with nets ; when they form themfelves into companies, for the better management of them. The largefl fort of fifh caught here is called Bagre, fome of which are a yard and a half long ; but flabby, and of an ill lafle, fo that they are never eaten frefh. The Robalo, a fort of large trout, is the mofl palatable \ but being only taken in the VOL. XIV. 3 G creekg 41 ULLOA S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. creeks a great way above Guayaquil, the diflance will not admit their being brought to that city. The increafe of fifli in this river is greatly hindered by the prodigious numbers of alligators, an amphibious creature living both in the rivers, and the adjacent plains, though it is not often known to go far from the banks of the river. When tired with fifhing, they leave the water to bafk themfelves in the fun, and then appear more like logs of half rotten wood thrown afliore by the current, than living creatures ; but upon perceiving any veflel near them, they immediately throw themfelves into the water. Some are of fo monftrous a fize as to exceed five yards in length. During the time they lie bafking on the fhore, they keep their huge mouths wide open, till filled with mofchitos, flies, and other infeds, when they fuddenly Ihut their jaws and fwallow their prey. "Whatever may have been written with regard to the fiercenefs and rapacity of this animal, I and all our company know, from experience, they avoid a man, and on the approach of any one, immediately plunge into the water. Their whole body is covered with fcales impenetrable to a mufket-ball, unlefs it happens to hit them in the belly near the fore legs ; the only part vulnerable. The alligator is an oviparous creature. The female makes a large hole in the fand near the brink of a river, and there depofits her eggs ; which are as white as thofe of a hen, but much more folid. She generally lays about a hundred, continuing in the fame place till they are all depofited, which is about a day or two. She then covers them with the fand ; and the better to conceal them, rolls herfelf, not only over her precious depofitum, but to a confiderable diftance. After this precaution, fhe returns to the water till natural inflinfl: informs her that it is time to deliver her young from their confinement ; when ftie comes to the fpot, followed by the male, and tearmg up the fand, begins breaking the eggs, but fo carefully, that fcarce a fingle one is injured ; and a whole fwarm of little alligators are feen crawling about. The female then takes them on her neck and back, in order to remove them into the water ; but the watchful gallinazos make ufe of this opportunity to deprive her of fome ; and even the male alligator, which indeed comes for no other end, devours what he can, till the female has reached the water with the few remaining ; for all thofe which either fall from her back, or do not fwim, fhe herfelf eats ; fo that of fuch a formidable brood, happily not more than four or five efcape. The gallinazos, mentioned in our account of Carthagena, are the mod inveterate enemies of the alligators, or rather extremely fond of their eggs, in finding which they make ufe of uncommon addrefs. Thefe birds often make it their whole bufinefs to watch the females during the fummer, the feafon when they lay their eggs, the fands on the fides of the river not being then covered with water. The gallinazo perches on fome tree, where it conceals itfelf among the branches, and there filently watches the female alligator, till Ihe has laid her eggs and retires, pleafed that fhe has con- cealed them beyond difcovery. But fhe is no iboner under the water, than the gallinazo darts down on the repofitory, and with its beak, claws, and wings, tears up the fand, and devours the eggs, leaving only the fhells. This banquet would indeed richly reward its long patience, did not a multitude of gallinazos from all parts, join the fortunate difcoverer and fhare in the fpoil. I have often been entertained with this ftratagem of the gallinazos,- in paffing from Guayaquil to the cuftom-houfe of Babahoyo ; and my curiofity once led me to take fome of the eggs, which thofe who frequent this river, particularly the Mulattos, make no difficulty of eating, when f refh. Here we mufl remark the methods ufed by Providence in diminifliing the number of thefe deflrudive creatures, not only by the gallinazos, but even by the males rhem- 1 1 felves. ULLOA*S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. 4I I felves. Indeed, neither the river nor the neighbouring fields would otherwife be fufEcient to contain them ; for, notwithftanding the ravages of thefe two infatiable ene- mies, their numbers can hardly be imagined. Thefe alligators are the great deflroyers of the fifh in this river, it being their moft fafe and general food ; nor are they wanting in addrefs to fatisfy their defires ; eight or ten, as it were by compaft, draw up at the mouth of a river or creek, whilfl others go a confiderable diftance up the river, and chafe the fifh downwards, by which none of any bignefs efcape them. The alligators being unable to eat under water, on feizing a fifli, raife their heads above the furface, and by degrees draw the fifli from their jaws, and chew it for deglutition. After fatisfying their appetite, they retire to reft on the banks of the river. When they cannot find fifh to appeafe their hunger, they betake themfelves to the meadows bordering on the banks, and devour calves and colts ; and, in order to be more fecure, take the opportunity of the night, that they may furprife them in their fleep ; and it is obferved, that thofe alligators which have once tafted flefh, become fo fond of it, as never to take up with fifh but in cafes of necefTity. There are even too many melancholy inftances of their devouring the human fpecies, efpecially children, who from the inattention natural to their age, have been without doors after it is dark ; and though at no great diftance, thefe voracious animals have dared to attack them, and having once feized them, to make fure of their prey againft that afTiftance which the cries of the vidlim never fail to bring, haften into the water, where they immedi- ately drown it, and then return to the furface, and devour it at leifure. Their voracity has alfo been felt by the boatmen, whom, by inconfiderately fleeping with one of their arms or legs hanging over the fide of the boat, thefe animals have feized, and drawn the whole body into the water. Alligators who have once feafted on human flefh, are known to be the moft dangerous, and become, as it were, inflamed with an infatiable defire of repeating the fame delicious repaft. The inhabi- tants of thofe places where they abound, are very induftrious in catching and deftroy- ing them. Their ufual method is by a cafonate, or piece of hard wood fharpened at both ends, and baited with the lungs of fome animal. This cafonate they faften to a thong, the end of which is fecured on the fhore. The alligator on feeing the lungs floating on the water, fnaps at the bait, and thus both points of the wood enter his jaws, in fuch a manner that he can neither fhut nor open his mouth. He is then dragged afliore, where he violently endeavours to refcue himfelf, while the Indians bait him like a bull, knowing that the greateft damage he can do, is to throw down fuch as for want of care or agility, do not keep out of his reach. The form of this animal fo nearly refembles that of the iagarto or lizard, that here they are commonly called by that name ; but there is fome difference in the fhape of the head, which in this creature is long, and towards the extremity flender, gradually forming a fnout like that of a hog, and when in the river, is generally above the fur- face of the water ; a fufficient demonftration, that the refpiration of a groffer air is neceffary to it. The mandibles of this creature have each a row of very ftrong and pointed teeth, to which fome writers have attributed particular virtues ; but all I can fay to this is, that they are fuch as I and my companions, notwithftanding all our enquiries to attain a complete knowledge of every particular, could never hear any fatisfaftory account of. 3 G 2 CHAP. 4-12 ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. CHAP. X. — Of the Commerce carried on by means of the City and River of Guayaquil, betwixt the Provinces of Peru and Terra Fir ma, and the Coajl of New Spain. THE commerce of Guayaquil may be divided into two parts : one reciprocal, being that of the produds and manufadures of its jurifdidion ; the other tranfitory, its port being the place where the goods from the provinces of Peru, Terra Firma, and Gau- temala, configned to the mountains, are landed ; and on the other hand, thofe from the mountains, defigned for the abovementioned provinces, are brought hither and fhipped for their refpettive ports. And as thefe two branches are very different, I (hall firfl treat particularly of its reciprocal commerce. The cacao, one of its principal products, is chiefly exported to Panama, the ports of Sonfonate, el Realejo, and other ports of New Spain ; and alfo to thofe of Peru, though the quantity fent to the latter is but fmall. It is fomething fingular, that in this city and jurifdidion, where cocao grows in fuch plenty, little or no ufe fliould be made of it. Timber, which may be efteemed the fecond article of its commerce, is chiefly fent to Callao, though a little is fold to the places between Guayaquil and that port. All the expenfe of it here is the charge of felling, carrying it to the next creek or river, and floating it down to Guayaquil ; where, or at Puna, it is fhipped for the ports it is configned to. Though both thefe branches of trade are very advantageous to Guayaquil, as may be eafily imagined, from the prodigious quantities exported ; yet the trade of fait is not inferior to either, though the principal markets to which this is fent, are only the inland towns in the province of Quito. To thefe may be added cotton, rice, and fifh, both faked and dried ; the two firfl of which deferve to be mentioned, as they are exported both to the maritime and inland provinces. The fourth and lafl article of the commerce of this jurifdiftion, is the trade in horned cattle, mules, and colts, of which great numbers are bred in the extenfive favannahs of this province. Thefe turn to good account in the provinces of the mountains, where there is not a fufiiciency to anfwer the neceflary demands. Befides thefe four capital articles, there are others, though fmgly of little confe- quence, yet jointly are equal to any one of the former, as tobacco, wax, Guinea pepper, drugs, and lana de ceibo, by which great numbers of the lower clafs of people acquire a comfortable fubfiftence. The lana de ceibo, or ceibo wool, is the product of a very high and tufted tree of that name. The trunk is flraight, and covered with a fmooth bark ; the leaf round and of a middling fize. At the proper feafon the tree makes a very beautiful appear- ance, being covered with white bloflbms : and in each of thefe is formed a pod, which encreafes to about an inch and a half or two inches in length, and one in thicknefs. In this pod the lana or wool is contained. When thoroughly ripe and dry, the pod opens, and the filamentous matter or wool gradually fpreads itfelf into a tuft refeni- bling cotton, but of a reddifli calf. This wool is much more foft and delicate to the touch than cotton itfelf, and the filaments lb very tender and fine, that the natives here think it cannot be fpun ; but I am perfuaded that this is entirely owing to their igno- rance : and if a method be ever difcovered of fpinniug it, its finenefs will entitle it rather to be called ceibo filk than wool. The only ufe they have hitherto applied it to, is to fill matraflTes ; and in this particular, it mufl be allowed to have no equal, both with regard ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. 4I3 regard to its natural foftnefs, and its rifing fo, when laid in the fun, as even to ftretch the covering of the mattrafs ; nor does it fink on being brought into the fhade, unlefs accompanied with dampnefs, which immediately compreffes it. This wool is here thought to be of an extreme cold quality, which is abundantly fufficient to hinder it from being generally ufed, though great numbers of perfons of rank, and tenderly brought up, have never flept on any thing elfe, but without any injury to their health. The goods imported into this jurifdidtion from Peru, in return for the above-men- tioned commodities, are wine, brandy, oil, and dried fruits. From Quito it receives bays, tucuyos, flour, papas, bacon, hams, cheefe, and other goods of that kind. From Panama, European goods purchafed at the fairs. The chief commodities it receives from New Spain are iron, found in that country, but much inferior to that of Europe, being brittle and vitreous. It, however, ferves for fuch ufes where malleabi- lity is of no great importance, but is rarely ufed in building fhips ; alfo, naphtha, and tar for the ufe of fhipping. From the fame coaft, as well as from Peru, they have alfo cordage; though the laft article, together with European iron, the owners of Ihips import on their own account ; and therefore make no part of the commerce. The tranfiiory commerce is in quantity much more confiderable than that of the preced- ing, as it confiils of the reciprocal exchange between the large kingdoms of Quito and Lima, of their refpeftive commodities both natural and fa£litious. Lima fends the pro- du£i:s of its vineyards and olive yards ; and Quito furnifhes cloth, bays, tucuyos, ferges, hats, {lockings, and other woollen goods ; but indigo being neceflary for increafing the beauty of the colours, and none of it growing in the province of Quito, the mer- chants of Guayaquil import it from New Spain, and fend it to the Quito manu- fadlurers. Summer is the proper feafon for carrying on thefe branches of commerce ; becaufe then the manufactures of the mountains can be brought down to Guayaquil, and the goods fent from other parts carried up to the mountainous parts. But the river of Guayaquil is never without veflels loading with goods of that jurifdiftion, the fea here being always open. The profits refulting from this large and conftant commerce could alone have preferved it from a total defertion, after being fo frequently pillaged by pirates, and wafted by fire. And it is owing to the advantages refulting from this commerce, that we now behold it large, flourifhing, and magnificent, as if it had en- joyed an uninterrupted profperity from its very foundation. BOOK V. JOURNEY FROM GUAYAQUIL TO THE CITY OF QUITO. CHAP. I. — Pajfagefrom Guayaquil to the Town of Caracol, and from thence to Quito. ON receiving advice that the mules, provided by the corregidor of Guaranda, were on the road to Caracol, we immediately embarked at Guayaquil, on the 3d of May 1736, on board a large chata : but the ufual impediment of. the current, and feveral unfortunate accidents, rendered the palfage fo very long, that we did not land 9 at 414 ulloa's voyage to south America. at Caracol before the i uh. The tortures we received on the river from the mofchitos were beyond imagination. We had provided ourfelves with guetres, and mofchito cloths ; but to very httle purpofe. The whole day we were in continual motion to keep them off; but at night our torments were exceffive. Our gloves were indeed fome defence to our hands, but our faces were entirely expofed, nor were our clothes a fufficient defence for the reft of our bodies ; for their ftings, penetrating throufrh the jloth, caufed a very painful and fiery itching. The moft difmal night we fpent in this paflage was when we came to an anchor near a large and handfome houfe, but unin- habited ; for we had no fooner feated ourfelves in it, than we were attacked on all fides with innumerable fwarms of mofchitos ; fo that we were fo far from having any reft there, that it was impoflible for a perfon, fufceptible of feeling, to be one moment quiet. Thofe who had covered themfelves with their mofchito cloths, after taking the greateft care that none of thefe malignant infedts were contained in them, found them- felves in a moment fo attacked on all fides, that they were obliged foon to return to the place they had quitted. Thofe who were in the houfe, hoping that they Ihould find fome relief in the open fields, ventured out, though in danger of fuffering in a more terrible manner from the ferpents ; but were foon convinced of their miftjike ; it being impoflible to determine which was the moft fupportable place, within the mofchito cloth, without it, or in the open fields. In Ihort, no expedient was of any ufe againft their numbers. The fmoke of the trees we burnt, to difperfe thefe infernal infeds, befides almoft choking us, feemed rather to augment than diminifh their multitudes. At day-break, we could not without concern look upon each other. Our faces were fwelled, and our hands covered with painful tumours, which futliciently indicated the condition of the other parts of our bodies expofed to the attacks of thofe infeds. The following night we took up our quarters in a houfe inhabited, but not free from mof- chitos ; though in much lefs numbers than before. On informing our hoft of the de- plorable manner in which we had fpent the preceding night, he gravely told us, that the houfe we fo greatly complained of had been forfaken on account of its being the pur- gatory of a foul. To which, one of our company wittily anfwered, that it was much more natural to think that it was forfaken on account of its being a purgatory for the body. The mules being arrived at Caracol, we fet out on the 14th of May, and, after tra- velling four leagues, through favannahs, woods of plantain, and cacao-trees, we arrived at the river Ojibar ; and continued our journey, during the whole day, along its banks, fording it no lefs than nine times, though with no fmall danger, from its rapidity, breadth, depth, and rocky bottom ; and, about three or four in the afternoon, we halted at a place called Puerto de Mufchitos. All the road from Caracol to the Ojibar is fo deep and boggy thzt the beafts at every ftep funk almoft up to their bellies ; but along the banks of that river we found it much more firm and commodious. The name of the place where we were to take up our lodging that night fufticiently indicates its nature. The houfe had been for fome time forfaken, like that already mentioned on Guayaquil river, and become a neft of mofchi- tos of all kinds ; fo that it was impoflible to determine which was the worft. Some, to avoid the tortures of thefe infeds, ftripped themfelves, and went into the river, keeping only their heads above water ; but the face being the only part expofed, was immedi- ately covered with them ; fo that thofe who had recourfe to this expedient, were foon forced to deliver up their whole bodies to thefe tormenting creatures. On the 15th we contmued our journey through a very thick foreft, the end of which brought us once more to the banks of die fame river, which we again forded four times, and ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. 415 and rather with more danger than at firft. About five, we halted on its banks, at a place called Caluma, or the Indian poft. Here was no houfe for lodging in, nor had we feen one during the whole day's journey ; but this inconvenience was in fome ineafure removed by the furprifing dexterity of our Indians, who, running into the woods, foon returned with branches of trees and vijahua leaves, with which, in lefs than an hour, they ereded fevera! huts large enough to contain our whole company ; and fo well covered, that the rain, which came on very violently, did not penetrate them. * The thermometer at Caluma, on the 16th, at fix in the morning, was at one thoufand and fixteen ; and we were ourfelves fenfible that the air began to grow cool. At half an hour after eight in the morning we began our journey, and at noon paffed by a place called Mamarumi, or mother of ftone, where there is an inconceivably beautiful cafcade. The rock from which the water precipitates itfelf is nearly perpendicular, and fifty toifes in height, and on both fides bordered with lofty and fpreading trees. The clearnefs of the water dazzles the fight, which is, however, charmed with its luftre as it falls from the precipice ; after which it continues its coarfe in a bed along a fmall defcent, and is crofiTed by the road. Thefe cataracts are by the Indians called Paccha, and by the Spaniards of the country Chorrera. From hence we continued our journey ; and after croffing the river twice on bridges, but with equal danger as in fording it, we arrived at two in the evening at a place called Tarigagua, where we refted in a large ftrufture of timber, covered with vijahua leaves, built for our reception. Indeed we were no lefs fatigued with this day's journey than with any of the preceding ; fome parts of it being over dreadful precipices, and the road in others fo narrow, as hardly to afford a palfage for the mules, that it was impoffible to avoid frequently ftriking againil the trees and rocks ; few of us therefore reached Ta-igagua without feveral bruifes. It mull: not be thought ftrange that I fliould fay the bridges are equally dangerous with the fords ; for thefe ftruftures, all of wood, and very long, fiiake in pafling them ; befides, their breadth is not above three feet, and without any rail ; fo that one falfe ftep precipitates the mule into the torrent, where it is inevitably loft ; accidents, accordmg to the report of our guides not uncommon. Thefe bridges, by the rotting of the wood under water, are annually repaired towards winter, the only feafon when they are ufed 5 the rivers during the fummer being fordable. When a perfon of diftinftion, as a prefident, a bifiiop, &c. is on a journey from Cara- col or Babahoyo, the corregidor of Guaranda difpatches Indians for building cottages at the ufual refting places, like that we found at Tarigagua ; and thefe being left ftanding, ferve afterwards for other paffengers, till the rains defirov them. When thefe ai-e thrown down, travellers muft content themfelves with the huts which their Indian guides build with wonderful difpatch. At Tarigagua, on the 17th, at fix in the morning, the thermometer flood at 1014I. And having been for fome time accuftomed to hot climates, we now fenfibly felt the cold. It is remarkable, that we here often fee inftances of the effefts of two oppofite temperatures, in two perfons happening to meet, one of them coming from Guayaquil, and the other from the mountains : the latter finding the heat fo great that he is fcarce able to bear any clothes, while the former wraps himfelf up in all the garments he can procure. The one is fo delighted with the warmth of the water of the river, that he bathes in it ; the other thinks it fo cold, that he avoids being fpattered by it. Nor is the * The natives when they travel, ereft new huts every night in this manner, except they have the con- veiiiency of tying their hammock up in trees, by which means they fave the trouble of a watch and fire all night to keep off the wild beafls. "^ cafe 41 6 ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. cafe very different even in the fame perfon, who, after a journey to the mountains, is returning to Guayaquil, or vice verfa, provided the journey and return be made at the fame feafon of the year. This fenfible difference proceeds only from the change natu- rally felt at leaving a climate to which one has been accuftomed, and coming into another of an oppofite temperature ; and thus two perfons, one ufed to a cold climate, like that of the mountains, the other to a hot, like that of Guayaquil, muff, at coming into an intermediate temperature, as at Tarigagua, feel an equal difference ; one with regard to heat, and the other with regard to cold ; which demonftrates that famous opinion — that the fenfes are fubject to as many apparent alterations, as the fenfations are various in thofe who feel them. For the impreffions of objeQs are different, according to the different difpofition of the fenfes ; and the organs of two perfons differently dif^ pofed are differently affected. At a quarter paft nine in the morning we began to afcend the mountain of San Antonio, the foot of which is at Tarigagua ; and, at one, came to a place called by the Indians Guaraac, or Crofs of Canes. Here is a fmall but inclining plain ; and being told that it was half way up the acclivity, and our beails requiring reft, we halted here. The ruggednefs of the road from Tarigagua leading up this mountain is not eafily defcribed. It gave us more trouble and fatigue, befides the dangers we were every moment expofed to, than all we had experienced in our former journeys. In fome parts the declivity is fo great that the mules can fcarce keep their footing, and in others the acclivity is equally difficult. In many places the road is fo narrow that the mules have fcarce room to fet their feet ; and in others a continued feries of precipices. Be- fides, thefe roads, or rather paths, are full of holes, or camelones, near three quarters of a yard deep, in which the mules put their fore and hind feet ; fo that fometimes they draw their bellies and riders* legs along the ground. ' Indeed thefe holes ferve as fleps, without which the precipices would be in a great meafure impradicable. But fhould the creature happen to put his foot between two of thefe holes, or not place it right, the rider falls, and, if on the fide of the precipice, inevitably periflies. It may perhaps be faid, that it would be much fafer to perform this part of the journey on foot : iut how can any perfon be fure always of placing his feet diredly on the eminences between the holes ; and the leaft falfe ftep throws him up to the waift in a flimy mud, with which all the holes are full ; and then he will find it very difficult either to proceed or return back. Thefe holes, or camelones, as they are called, render all this road very toilfome and dangerous, being as it were fo many obftacles to the poor mules ; though the danger is even greater in thofe parts where they are wanting. For as the tracks are extremely fteep and flippery, from the foil, which is chalky and continually wet ; fo they would be quite impracticable, did not the Indians go before, and dig little trenches acrofs the road, with fmall fpades which they carry with them for this purpofe ; and thus both the difficulty and danger of thefe craggy paths are greatly leffened. This work is continual, every drove requiring a repetition of it ; for in lefs than a night the rain utterly deftroys all the trenches cut by feveral hands the preceding day. The trouble of having people going before to mend the road ; the pains arifing from the many falls and bruifes ; and the difagreeablenefs of feeing one's felf entirely covered with dirt, and wet to the fkin, might be the more cheerfully fupported, were they not augmented by the fight of fuch frightful precipices, and deep abyffes, as muff fill the traveller's mind with terror. For, without the leaft exaggeration, it may be faid, that in travelling this road, the moft refo- lute tremble. The "§ a' ^ -i ^ 1 ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. 417^ The manner of defcending from thefe heights is not lefs difficult and dangerous. In order to underftand this, it is neceflary to obferve, that in thofe parts of the mountains, the exceffive fteepnefs will not admit of the camelones being lading ; for the waters, by continually foftening the earth, wafli them away. On one fide are fteep eminences, and on the other frightful abyfl'es ; and as they generally follow the direflion of the moun- tain, the road, inftead of lying in a level, forms two or three fteep eminences and decli- vities, in the diftance of two or three hundred yards : and thefe are the parts where no camelones can be lafting. The mules themfelves are fenfible of the caution requifite in thefe defcents ; for, coming to the top of an eminence, they Hop, and having placed their fore feet clofe together, as in a pofture of flopping themfelves, they alfo put their hinder feet together, but a little forwards, as if going to lie down. In this attitude, having as it were taken a furvey of the road, they Aide down with the fwiftnefs of a meteor. All the rider has to do is to keep himfelf faft in the faddle without checking his beaft ; for the leaft motion is fufficient to diforder the equilibrium of the mule, in which cafe they both unavoidably perifh. The addrefs of thefe creatures is here truly wonderful ; for, in this rapid motion, when they feem to have .loft all government of themfelves, they follow exaftly the different windings of the road, as if they bad before accurately reconnoitred, and previoufly fettled in their minds, the route they were to follow, and taken every precaution for their fafety, amidft fo many irregularities. There would indeed otherwife be no poflibility of travelling over fuch places, where the fafety of the rider depends on the experience and addrefs of his beaft. But the longeft pradice of travelling thefe roads cannot entirely free them from a kind of dread or horror which appears when they arrive at the top of a fteep declivity. For they ftop without being checked by the rider ; and if he inadvertently endeavours to fpur them on, they continue immoveable ; nor will they ftir from the place till they have put themfelves in the above-mentioned pofture. Now it is that they feem to be aduated by reafon ; for they not only attentively view the road, but tremble and fnort at the danger, which, if the rider be not accuftomed to thefe emotions, cannot fail of filling him with terrible ideas. The Indians go before, and place themfelves along the fides of the mountain, holding by the roots of trees, to animate the beafts with fliouts, till they at once ftart down the declivity. There are indeed fome places where thefe declivities are not on the fides of pre- cipices ; but the road is fo narrow and hollow, and the fides nearly perpendicular, that the danger is almoft equal to the former ; for the track being extremely narrow, and the road fcarce wide enough to admit the mule with its rider, if the former falls, the lat- ter muft be neceffarily cruftied ; and for want of room to difengage himfelf, generally has a leg or an arm broken, if he efcapes with life. It is really wonderful to confider thefe mules, after having overcome the firft emotions of their fear, and are going to Aide down the declivity, with what exa6lnefs they ftretch out their fore-legs, that by preferving the equilibrium they may not fall on one fide ; yet at a proper diftance make, with their body, that gentle inclination neceflary to follow the feveral windings of the road ; and, laltly, their addrefs in flopping themfelves at the end of their impetuous career. Certainly the human fpecies themfelves could not fliow more prudence and conduct:. Some mules, after being long ufed to thefe journeys, acquire a kind of repu- tation for their fkill and fafety, and accordingly are highly valued. The worft feafons for thefe journeys, though difficult and dangerous at all times, are the beginnings of fummer and winter ; the rain then caufing fuch dreadful torrents, that in fome places the roads are covered with water ; and in others fo damaged, that there is no poffibility of paffi.ng, but by fending Indians before to mend them ; though voj.. XIV, 2 H after 4t8 ulloa's voyage to south America. after all their labour, which mufl be done in hafte, and when thofe people think them both fafe and eafy, they are fuch as an European itranger would willingly avoid. Befides, the natural difficulty of all the roads among the mountains is increafed by the negleft of them, which is greater than could eafily be conceived. If a tree, for inftance, happens to fall down acrofs the road, and ftop up the paCage, no perfon will be at the pains to remove it ; and though all paffing that way are put to no fmall diffi- culty by ftich an obftacle, it is fuffered to continue ; neither the government, nor thofe who frequent the road, taking any care to have it drawTi away. Some of thefe trees are indeed fo large, that their diameter is not lefs than a yard and a h^lf, and, confe- quently, fill up the whole paiTage ; in which cafe, the Indians hew away part of the trunk, and affift the mules to leap over what remains ; but, in order to this, they mufl: be unloaded ; and, after prodigious labour, they at lall furmount the difficulty ; though not without great lofs of time, and damage to the goods : when, pleafed with having got over the obftacle themfelves, they leave the tree in the condition they found it ; fo that thofe who follow are obliged to undergo the fame fatigue and trouble. Thus the road, to the great detriment of trade, remains encumbered till time has deftroyed the tree. Nor is it only the roads over San Antonio, and other mountains between Guaya- quil and the Cordillera, that are thus negleded ; the cafe is general all over this coun- try, efpecially where they lead over mountains, and through the forefls. On the 1 8th, at fix in the morning, the thermometer at Cruz de Canos was at loio, and after travelling along a road no better than the day before, we arrived at a place, at the end of the acclivity of the mountain, by the Indians called Pucara, which figni- fies a gate or narrow pafs of a mountain ; it alfo fignifies a fortified place, and poffibly derived its name from its narrownefs and the natural ftrength of its fituation. We now began to defcend with more eafe towards the province of Chimbo, though the road was not much better than the former. Here we were met by the corregidor of Guaranda or Chimbo, attended by the provincial alcalde, and the moft eminent per- fons of the town. After complimenting us in the moft cordial manner on our arrival, we proceeded together, and within a league of the town were met by the prieft, a Do- minican, accompanied by feveral of his order, and a great number of- the inhabitants, who alfo left the town on the fame friendly occafion ; and, to heighten the ceremony, had brought with them a troop of cholos, or Indian boys. Thefe cholos were drefled in blue, girded round their wafte with faflies, on their heads a kind of turban, and in their hands they carried flags. This little corps was divided into two or three companies, and went before us dancing, and finging fome words in their language, which, as we were told, exprefled the pleafure they received from the fight of fuch perfons arrived fafe in their country. In this manner our caval- cade entered the town, on which all the bells in the place were rung, and every houfe refounded with the noife of trumpets, tabors, and pipes. On expreffing to the corregidor our furprife at this reception, as a compliment far above our rank, he informed us, that it was not at all fingular, it being no more than what was commonly praflifed when perfons of any appearance enter the town ; and that there was no fmall emulation between the feveral towns, in paying thefe congra- tulations. After we had paffed the mountains beyond Pacara, the whole country, within the reach of the eye, -during a paffage of two leagues, was a level and open plain, without trees or mountains, covered with fields of wheat, barley, maize, and other grain, whofe verdure, different from that of the mountain, naturally gave us great pleafure ; our fight for near a twelvemonth having been converfant only with the products of hot II and ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 4lg and moifl countries, very foreign to thefe, which nearly refemble thofe of Europe, and excited in our minds the pleafing idea of our native foil. The corregidor entertained us in his houfe at Guaranda till the 21ft of the fame month, when we continued our journey to Quito. The thermometer was for three days fucceffively at ioo4|. On the 2 2d, we began to crofs the defert of Chimborazo, leaving the mountain of that name on the left, and travelling over different eminences and heights, mod of which were of fand, the fnow for a great diftance forming, as it were, the fides of the mountain. At half an hour after five in the evening, we arrived at a place called S.umi Machai, that is, a flony cave, an appellation derived from a vaft cavity in a rock, and which is the only lodging travellers find here. This day's journey was not without its trouble ; for, though we had nothing to fear from precipices, or dangerous pafTes, like thofe in the road to Guaranda, yet we fuf- fered not a little from the cold of that defert, then increafed by the violence of the wind. Soon after we had paffed the large fandy plain, and being thus got over the fevered part of the defert, we came to the ruins of an ancient palace of Yncas, fituated in a valley between two mountains ; but thefe ruins are little more than the foundations of the walls. On the 23d, at three quarters after five in the morning, the thermometer was at 1000, or the freezing point, and, accordingly, we found the whole country covered with a hoar frofl ; and the hut in which we lay had ice on it. At nine in the morning we fet out, ftill keeping along the fide of Chimborazo. At two, in the afternoon, we arrived at Mocha, a fmall, mean place ; but where we were obliged to pafs the night. On the 24th, at fix in the morning, the thermometer was at 1006 ; and at nine we fet out for Hambato, which we reached at one in the afternoon, after pafTmg feveral tor- rents, breaches, or chafms of the mountain Carguairafo, another mountain covered with fnow, a little north of Chimborazo. Among thefe chafms is one without water, the earth remaining dry to the depth of twelve feet. This chafm was caufed by a violent earthquake, which will be fpoken of in its place. On the 25th, the thermometer at Hambato, at half an hour after five in the morn- ing, flood at loio, and on the 26th, at fix in the morning, at 1009!. This day, having paffed the river of Hambato, and afterwards that of St. Miguel, by help of a wooden bridge, we arrived at Latacunga. On the 27th, at fix in the morning, the thermometer was at 1007, when leaving Latacunga we reached in the evening the town of Mula-Halo-, having in the way forded a river called Alaques. On the 28th, the liquor of the thermometer was at the fame height as at Lata- cunga, and we proceeded on our journey, arriving in the evening at the manfion- houfe or villa called Chi Shinche. The firft part of this day's journey was over a large plain, at the end of which vi'e had the pleafure of paffing by a flrudture that belonged to the Pagan Indians, being a palace of the Yncas. It is called Callo, and gave name to the plain. We afterwards came to an acclivity, at the top of which we entered on the plain of TiopuUo, not lefs in extent than the firft ; and at the bottom, towards the north, is the houfe where we were entertained that night. On the 2gth, the thermometer, at fix ill the morning, was at 1003I. We fet out the earlier, as this was to be our lafl journey. A road croffing feveral breaches and beaten trads, brought us to a fpacious plain called Tura-Bamba, that is, a muddy plain ; at the other extremity of which ftands the city of Quito, where we arrived at 3 H 2 five 420 ULLOa'3 voyage TO SOUTH AMERICA. five in the evening. The prefident of the province was Don Dionefio de Alzedo y Herrera, who, befides providing apartments for us in the palace of the Audencia, en- tertained us the firfl: three days with great fplendour, during which we were vifited by the bifhop, the auditors, the canons, the regidores, and all other perfons of any dif- tinftion, who feemed to vie with each other in their civilities towards us. In order to form an adequate idea of this country, it will not be amifs, after being fo particular in defcribing the difagreeable parts, and the many dangers to which travellers are expofed, to add a defcription of the moft remarkable productions of nature. The lands between the cuftom-houfe of Babahoyo, or Caracol, and Guaranda, are of two kinds : the firft, which extends to Tarigagua, is entirely level ; and the fecond, which begins at that part, wholly mountainous. But both, and even two leagues beyond Pucara, are full of thick forefts of various kinds of large trees, differing in the foliage, the difpofition of their branches, and the fize of their trunks. The mountains, which forni this chain of the Andes, are, on the weft fide, covered with woods ; but on the eaft entirely bare. Among thefe mountains is the fource of that river which, being in- creafed on all fides by brooks, makes fo grand an appearance between Caracol and Guayaquil, and proves fo advantageous to the commerce of the country. In the level part of this woody extent are a great number of animals and birds, of the fame kind with thofe defcribed in our account of Carthagena, except that to the laft may be added wild peacocks, buftards, pheafants, and a few others, which are here in fuch abundance, that, did they not always reft on the tops of the trees, where, either from their enormous height, or being covered with leaves, they are fecure, a traveller, with a good fowling-piece and ammunition, might at any time procure himfelf an elegant repaft. But thefe forefts are alfo terribly infefted with fnakes and monkeys,, particularly a kind called Marimondas, which are fo very large, that, when ftanding on their hind legs, they are little lefs than fix feet high. They are black, and, in every refpeft, very ugly ; but eafily tamed. None of the forefts are without them ; but they feem moft common in thofe of Guayaquil. Among the vegetable productions, I fliall feleft three, which to me feemed worthy of a particular defcription ; namely, the cana, vijahua, and the bejuco ; as they are not only the materials of which the houfes in the jurifdidion of Guayaquil are built, but alfo applied to various other ufes. The canas, or canes, are remarkable both for their length and thicknefs, and the water contained in their tubes. Their ufual length is between fix and eight toifes ; an^ though there is a difference in their fize, the largeft do not exceed fix incl;es diameter. The wood or fide of the tube is about fix lines in diameter ; fo that, when the cana is opened, it forms a board near a foot and a half in breadth ; and hence it will not ap- pear ftrange, that houfes ftiould be built of fuch materials. From the time of their firft appearance, till, they attain their full perfedlion, when they are either cut down, or of themfelves begin to dry, moft of their tubes contain a quantity of water ; but with this remarkable difference, that at full moon they are entirely, or very nearly, full ; and with the decreafe of the moon the water ebbs, till at the conjundion little or none is to be found. I have myfelf cut them at all feafons, fo that I here advance nothing but what 1 know to be true from frequent experience. I have alfo obferved that the water, during its decreafe, appears turbid, but about the time of the full moon it is as clear as cryftal. The Indians add another particular, that the water is not found in all the joints, one having water, and another not, alternately. All 1 can fay to this fin- gularity is, that on openuig a joint which happens to be empty, the two contiguous ones have water j and this is commonly the cafe in almoft all the canes. This water is faid 9 to ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 421 to be an excellent prefervative againfl the ill confequence of any bruifes ; at leaft it is drunk as fuch by all who come from the mountains, where fuch accidents are un- avoidable. The canes being cut, they are left to dry, or, as they fay here, to be cured ; whence they acquire fuch a degree of flrength, that they ferve-either for rafters, beams, floor- ing, or even marts for balzas. Ships which load with cacao are alfo ceiled with them, to preferve the timbers from the great heat of that fruit. They are alfo ufed as poles for litters, and in an infinite number of other particulars. The vijahua is a leaf generally five feet in length, and two and a half in breadth. They grow wild, and without any ftem. The principal rib in the middle, is between four and five lines in breadth, but all the other parts of the leaf are perfedly foft and fmooth : the under fide is green, and the upper white, covered with a very fine white and vifcid down. Befides the common ufe of it in covering houfes, it alfo ferves for packing up fait, fifh, and other goods fent to the mountains ; as it fecures them from the rain. They are alfo, in thefe defert places, of fingular ufe for running up huts on any exigency. The bejucos are a kind of ligneous cordage, and of two kinds ; one growing from the earth, and twining round trees ; the other ftrike their roots into certain trees, and from thence derive their nourifhment. Both kinds, after growing to a great height, incline again to the earth, on which they creep till they meet with another tree, to the top of which they climb as before, and then again renew their inclination towards the earth ; and thus form a labyrinth of ligatures. Some are even feen extended from the top of one tree to another, like a cord. They are fo remarkably flexile, that no bend- ing or twilling can break them. But if not cut at the proper time, they grow of an unwieldy bignefs. The flenderefl of them are about four or five lines in diameter, but the mofl; common fize is between fix and eight ; though there are others much thicker, but of little or no ufe, on account of the hardnefs contraded in their long growth. The chief ufe of them is for lafhing, tying, or faftening different things together ; and, by twilling feveral of them in the nature of ropes, they make cables and hawfers for the balzas and fmall veffels ; and are found by experience to lall a long time in the water. In thefe forefls alfo grows a tree, called very properly Matapalo, i. e. kill-timber. It is of itfelf a weak tree ; but, growing near another of confiderable bulk, and coming into contaft with it, fhoots above it, when, expanding its branches, it deprives its neighbour of the rays of the fun. Nor is this all ; for, as this imbibes the juices of the earth, the other withers and dies. After which, it becomes lord of the foil, and increafes to fuch a bulk, that very large canoes are made of it j for which its wood is, of all others, the bell adapted, being very light and fibrous. CHAP. II. — Difficulties attending our making the necejfary Obfervations for meafuring the Length of an Arch of the Meridian, and the Manner of our Living during the Operations. ALL the progrefs made during one whole year, which we fpent in coming to Quito, was the furmounting the difficulties of the paffage, and at length reaching that country where we were to enter on the principal part of our commilTion. Nor will even this appear a fmall matter, if the great diflance and diverfity of climates be confidered. A lew of the firft days after our arrival were fpent in making proper returns for the civili- ties 422 ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. ties we had received from all perfons of rank ; after which, we began to deliberate on the beft methods of performing our work ; and the rather, as M. Bouguer and de la Condamine were now arrived. The former reached Quito on the loth of June, by the fame road of Guaranda ; and the latter on the 4th of the fame month, having taken his route by the river of Emeralds, in the government of Atacames. Our firfl operation was, to meafure a piece of ground, which was to be the bafe of the whole work ; and this we finifhed during the remainder of the current year. But it proved a very difficult and fatiguing operation, from the heat of the fun, and the winds and rains, which continually incommoded us. The plain made choice of for this bafe is fituated two hundred and forty nine toifes lower than Quito, and four leagues to the north-eaft of that city. It is called the plain of Yaruqui, from a village of that name near it. This plain was particularly chofen, as the beft adapted to our operations ; for though there are feveral others in this diftrid, yet all of them lay at too great a diftance from the diredtion of our bafe. The quahty, difpofition, and lower fituation, all contri- bute to render it lefs cold than Quito. Eaftward it is defended by the lofty Cordillera of Guamani and Pambamarca, and weftward by that of Pichincha. The foil is en- tirely fand ; fo that, befides the heat naturally refulting from the direft rays of the fun, it is increafed by the rays being reverberated by the two Cordilleras ; hence it is alfo expofed to violent tempefts of thunder, lightning, and rain ; but, being quite open towards the north and fouth, fuch dreadful whirlwinds form here, that the whole inter- val is filled with columns of fand, carried up by the rapidity and gyrations of violent eddy winds, which fometimes produce fatal confequences : one melancholy inftance happened while we were there ; an Indian, being caught in the centre of one of thefe blafts, died on the fpot. It is not, indeed, at all ftrange, that the quantity of fand in one of thefe columns fhould totally ftop all refpiration in any living creature, who has the misfortune of being involved in it. Our daily labour was, to meafure the length of this plain in a horizontal direftion, and, at the fame time, by means of a level, to correft the inequalities of the ground ; beginning early in the morning, and continuing to purfue our tafk clofely till evening, unlefs interrupted by extreme bad weather ; when we retired to a tent always pitched for that purpofe, as well as for a retreat at noon, when the heat of the fun became too great for us, after the fatigue of the morning. We at firft intended to have formed our bafe in the plain of Cayambe, fituated twelve leagues to the north of Quito. Accordingly, the company firft repaired to this plain, to view it more attentively. In this place we loft M. Couplet, on the 1 7th of Septem- ber 1736, after only two days illnefs. He was indeed flightly indifpofed when we fet out from Quito ; but, being of a ftrong conftitution, his zeal for the fervice would not permit him to be abfent at our firft eilay. On his arrival, however, his diftemper rofe to fuch a height, that he had only two days to prepare for his pafliige into eternity ; but we had the fatisfadion to fee he performed his part with exemplary devotion. ^This almoft fubitaneous death of a perfon in the flower of his age, was the more alarming, as none of us could difcover the nature of his difeafe. The menfuration of the bafe was fucceeded by obferving the angles, both horizontal and vertical, of the firft triangles we intended to form ; but many of them were not pur- fued, the form and difpofition of the feries being afterwards altered to very great advan- tage. In order to this, M.Verguin, with fome others, was fent to draw a geopraphical map of the parts fouth of Quito ; whilft M. Bouguer did the fame with regard to the northern parts ; a tafk we found abfolutely neceffary, in order to determine the points where the fignals ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 423 fignals fliould be placed, fo as to form the moft regular triangles, and whofe (ides fhould not be intercepted by higher mountains. During thefe operations, M. de la Condamine went to Lima, in order to procure money on recommendatory letters of credit, which he had brought from France, for defraying the expences of the company, till remittances arrived ; and Don George Juan followed him, in order to confer with the viceroy of Peru, for amicably deter- mining fome differences which had arifen with the new prefident. Thefe two gentlemen, having happily terminated their refpedive affairs, returned to Quito about the middle of June, when both M. Bouguer and thofe who furveyed the fouthern parts had finiflied their plans. It was now determined to continue the feries of triangles to the fouth of Quito ; and the company accordingly divided themfelves into two bodies, confifling of French and Spaniards, and each retired to the part affigned him ; Don George Juan and M. Godin, who were at the head of one party, went to the mountain of Pambamarca ; while M. Bouguer, De la Condamine, and myfelf, together with our affiftants, climbed up to the higheft fummit of Pichincha. Both parties fuffered not a little, both from the feverity of the cold, and the impetuofity of the winds, which on thefe heights blew with inceflant violence ; and thefe difficulties were the more painful to us, as we had been little ufed to fuch fenfations. Thus in the torrid zone, nearly under the equinoctial, where it is natural to fuppofe we had moft to fear from the heat, our greateft pain was caufed by the exceffivenefs of the cold, the intenfenefs of which may be conjeftured from the follovdng experiments made by the thermometer, carefully fheltered from the wind, on the top of Pichincha ; the freezing point being at 1000. On the 15th of Auguft, 1737, at twelve at noon, the liquor was at the height of 1003. At four in the evening, at looif. At fix in the evening, at ggSf. On the 1 6th of Auguft, at fix in the morning, at 997. At ten in the forenoon, at 1005. At twelve at noon, at 1008. At five in the evening, at looif. At fix in the evening, at 9994- On the 17th, at three quarters after five in the morning, at 996. At nine in the morning, at i 001. At three quarters after twelve, at 1 010. At a quarter after two in the afternoon, at ioi2|. At fix in the evening, at 999. And at ten in the even- ing, at 998. Our firft fcheme for fhelter and lodging, in thefe uncomfortable regions, was, to pitch a field-tent for each company ; but on Pichincha this could not be done, from the narrownefs of the fummit ; and v>'e were obliged to be contented with a hut, fo fmall, that we could hardly all creep into it. Nor will this appear ftrange, if the reader confiders the bad difpofition and fmallnefs of the place, it being one of the loftieft crags of a rocky mountain, one hundred toifes above the higheft part of the defert of Pichincha. Such was the fituation of our manfion, which, Hke all the other ^adjacent parts, foon became covered with ice and fnow. The afcent up this ftupend- ous rock, from the bafe, or the place where the mules could come, to our habitation, was fo craggy, as only to be climbed on foot, and to perform it, coft us four hours continual labour and pain, from the violent efforts of the body, and the fubtility of the air ; the latter being fuch, as to render refpiration difficult. It was my misfortune, when I climbed fomething above half way, to be fo overcome, that I fell down, and remained a long time without fenfe or motion ; and, as I was told, with all the ap- pearances of death in my face. Nor was I able to proceed after coining to myfelf, but was obliged to return to the foot of the rock, where our fervants and inftruments remained. The next day I renewed the attempt of climbing the rock ; though pro- bably 424 ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. bably I fhould have had no better (uccefs than before, had not fome Indians affifted me in the moft fteep and difficult places. The ftrange manner of living which we were reduced to, may not, perhaps, prove unentertaining to the reader ; and therefore I fhall, as a fpecimen of it, give a fuccindt account of what we fuffered on Pichincha. For this defert, both with regard to the operations we performed there, and its inconveniences, differing very little from others, an idea may be very eafily formed of the fatigues, hardfhips, and dangers, to which we were continually expofed. The principal difference between the feveral deferts, confifted in their greater or leffer diftance from places where we could procure pro- vifions ; and in the inclemency of the weather, which was proportionate to the height of the mountains, and the feafon of the year when we vifited them. We generally kept within our hut. Indeed, we were obliged to do this, both on account of the intenfenefs of the cold, the violence of the wind, and our being con- tinually involved in fo thick a fog, that an objed at fix or eight paces was hardly dif- cernible. When the fog cleared up, the clouds, by their gravity, moved nearer to the furface of the earth, and on all fides furrounded the mountain to a vaft diftance, reprefenting the fea, with our rock like an ifland in the centre of it. When this hap- pened, we heard the horrid noifes of the tempefts, which then difcharged themfelves on Quito and the neighbouring country. We faw the lightnings iffue from the clouds, and heard the thunders roll far beneath us ; and whilft the lower parts were involved in tempefts of thunder and rain, we enjoyed a delightful ferenity ; the wind was abated, the fky clear, and the enlivening rays of the fun moderated the feverity of the cold. But our circumftances were very different when the clouds rofe ; their thicknefs ren- dered refpiration difficult ; the fnow and hail fell continually, and the wind returned with all its violence ; fo that it was impoffible entirely to overcome the fears of being, together with our hut, blown down the precipice on whofe edge it was built, or of being buried under it by the daily accumulations of ice and fnow. The wind was often fo violent in thefe regions, that its velocity dazzed the fight ; whilft our fears were increafed by the dreadful concuffions of the precipice by the fall of enormous fragments of rocks. Thefe crafties were the more alarming, as no other noifes are heard in thefe deferts. And, during the night, our reft, which we fo greatly wanted, was frequently difturbed by fuch fudden founds. When the weather was any thing fair with us, and the clouds gathered about fome of the other mountains which had a connexion with our obfervations, fo that we could not make all the ufe we defired of this interval of good weather, we left our hut, to exercife ourfelves, in order to keep us warm. Sometimes we defcended to fome fmall diftance, and at others amufed ourfelves with rolling large fragments of rocks down the precipice ; and thefe many times required the joint ftrength of us all, though we often faw the fame per- formed by the mere force of the wind. But we always took care, in our excurfions, not to go too far, but that on the leaft appearance of the clouds gathering about our cottage, which often happened very fuddenly, we could regain our fhelter. The door of our hut was faftened with thongs of leather, and on the infide not the fmalleft crevice was left unftopped ; befides which, it was very conipadly covered with ftraw. But, notwithftanding all our care, the wind penetrated through. The days were often little better than the nights ; and all the light we enjoyed was that of a lamp or two, which we kept burning, that we might diitinguiffi one another, and improve our time as much as poflible in reading. Though our hut was fmall, and crowded with in- habitants, befides the heat of the lamps, yet the intenfenefs of the cold was fuch, that every one of us was obliged to have a chafing difh of coals, Thefe precautions would havQ ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 425 have rendered the rigour of the climate fupportable, had not the imminent danger of perifliing by being blown down the precipice roufed us, every time it fnowed, to encounter the feverity of the outward air, and fally out with Ihovels, to free the roof of our hut from the mafles of fnow which were gathering on it. Nor would it, with- out this precaution, have been able to fupport the weight. We were not, indeed, without fervants and Indians ; but they were fo benumbed with the cold, that it was with great difficulty we could get them out of a fmall tent, where they kept a con- tinual fire. So that all we could obtain from them was, to take their turns in this labour ; and even then they went very unwillingly about it, and confequently per- formed it flowly. It may be eafily conceived what we fuffered from the afperities of fuch a climate. Our feet were fwelled, and fo tender, that we could not even bear the heat, and walking was attended with extreme pain. Our hands were covered with chilblains ; our lips fwelled and chopped ; fo that every motion, in fpeaking or the like, drew blood ; confequently we were obliged to a ftri£t taciturnity, and but little difpofed to laugh, an extenfion of the lips producing filTures, very painful for two or three days together. Our common food in this inhofpitable region was a little rice boiled with fome fiefh or fowl, which we procured from Quito ; and, inftead of fluid water, our pot was filled with ice : we had the fame refource with regard to what we drank ; and, while we were eating, every one was obliged to keep his plate over a chafing-difli of coals, to prevent his provifions from freezing. The fame was done with regard to the water. At firfl we imagined, that drinking ftrong liquors would diftufe a heat through the body, and con- fequently render it lefs fenfible of the painful Iharpnefs of the cold ; but, to our fur- prife, we felt no manner of ftrength in them, nor were they any greater prefervative againfl; the cold than common water. For this reafon, together with the apprehenfioa that they might prove detrimental to our health, befides the danger of contracting an ill habit, we difcontinued their ufe, having recourfe to them but very feldom, and then fparingly. We frequently gave a fmall quantity to our Indians, together with part of the provifions which were continually fent us from Quito, befides a daily falary of four times as much as they ufually earn. But, notvvithitanding all thefe encouragements, we found it impoffible to keep the Indians together. On their firft feeling the rigours of the climate, their thoughts, were immediately turned on deferting us. The firft inftance we had of this kind was fo un- . expecfted, that, had not one of a better difpofition than the reft ftaid with us, and ac- quainted us of their defign, it might have proved of very bad confequence. The affair was this : there being on the top of the rock no room for pitching a tent for them, they ufed every evening to retire to a cave at the foot of the mountain, where, befides a na- tural diminution of the cold, they could keep a continual fire, and confequently enjoyed more comfortable quarters than their mafters. Before they withdrew at night, they faf- tened on the outfide the door of our hut, which was fo low that it was impoffible to go in or out without ftooping ; and as every night the hail and fnow which had fallen formed a wall againft the door, it was the bufinefs of one or two to come up early and remove this obftruftion, that, when we pleafed, we might open the door. For though our Negro fervants were lodged in a little tent, their hands and feet were fo covered with chilblains, that they would rather have fuffered themfelves to have been killed than move. The Indians therefore came conftantly up to difpatch this work betwixt nine and ten in the morning ; but we had not been there above four or five days, when we were not a little alarmed to fee ten, eleven, and twelve come, without any news of our VOL. XIV. 3 1 labourerss 4^6 . ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. labourers, when we were relieved by the honeft fervant mentioned above, who had withftood the feduftion of his countrymen, and informed us of the defortion of the four others. After great difficulty, he opened a way for us to come out, when we all fell to clearing our habitation from the mafles of fnow. We then fent the Indian to the cor- regidor of Quito with advice of our condition, who, with equal difpatch, fent others, threatening to chadife them feverely if they were wanting in their duty. But the fear of punifliment was not fufficient to induce them to fupport the rigour of our fituation ; for within two days we miffed them. On this fecond defcrtion, the cor- regidor, to prevent other inconveniences, fent four Indians under the care of an alcalde, and gave orders for their being relieved every fourth day. Twenty-three tedious days we fpent on this rock, viz. to the 6th of September, and even without any poffibility of finifhing our obfervations of the angles ; for, when it was fair and clear weather with us, the others, on whofe fumniits were eretted the fignals which formed the triangles for meafuring the degrees of the meridian, were hid in clouds ; and when (as we conje£tuted, for we could never plainly difcern them) thofe were clear, Pichincha was involved in clouds. It was therefore neceffary to erecl our fignals in a lower fituation, and in a more favourable region. This, however, did not produce any change in our habitation till December, when, having finilhed the obferv- ations which particularly concerned Pichincha, we proceeded to others ; but with no abatement either of inconveniences, cold or fatigue, the places w here we made all our obfervations being neceffarily on the highefl parts of the deferts ; fo that the only refpite, in which we enjoyed fome little eafe, was during the fhort interval of paffmg from one to the other. In all our ftations fubfequent to that on Pinchincha, during our fatiguing menfura- tion of the degrees of the meridian, each company lodged in a field-tent, which, though fmall, we found lefs inconvenient than our Pinchincha hut, though at the fame time we had more trouble, being oftener obliged to clear it from the fnow, as the weight of it would otherwife have demolifhed the tent. At firfl, indeed, we pitched it in the mofl; fheltered places ; but, on taking a refolution that the tents themfelves fliould ferve for fignals, to prevent the inconvenience of thofe of wood, we removed them to a more ex- pofed fituation, where the impetuofity of the winds fometimes tore up the piquets, and blew them down. Then we were not a little pleafed witli our having brought fupernu- merary tents, and with our dexterity in pitching another inftead of that which the wind had torn away. Indeed, without this precaution, we fliould have been in the utmofl danger of perifliing. In the defert of Afuay we particularly experienced the benefit of this expedient ; three tents belonging to our company being obliged to be pitched one after another, till at lafl; they all became unfit for ufe, and two ftout poles were broken. In this terrible condition our only refource was to quit the poll, which was next to the fignal of Sinafaguan, and fhelter ourfelves in a breach or chafm. The two companies were both at that time on this defert, fo that the fufferings of both were equal. The Indians who attended us, not willing to bear the feverity of the cold, and difgufled with the frequent labour of clearing the tent from the fnow, at the firll ravages of the wind, deferted us. Thus we were obliged to perforin every thing ourfelves, till others were fent us from a feat about three leagues diftant at the bottom of the mountain. While we were thus labouring under a variety of difficulties from the wind, fnow, froft, and the cold, which we here found more fevere than in any other part ; forfaken by our Indians, little or no provifions, a fcarcity of fuel, and in a manner deflitute of flicker, the good pried of Cannar, a town fituated at the foot of thefe Cordilleras, fouth- well from the fignal of Sinafaguan, about five leagues from it, and the road very diffi- I . cult. ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 427 cult, was offering his prayers for us ; for he, and all the Spaniards of the town, from the blacknefs of the clouds, gavc us over for lod ; fo that, after finifliing our obferv- ations, wepaflcd through the town, they viewed us with aftoniftiment, and received us with the moil cordial figns of delight, adding their congratulations, as if we had, amidll the moft threatening dangers, obtained a glorious victory : and, doubtlefs, our opera- tions muft appear to them a very extraordinary performance, if we confider the inex- preffible horror with which they view thofe places where we had paffed fo many days. It was at firft determined to erccl fignals of wood in the form of a pyramid ; but to render our Hay in the piercing colds of thefe regions as (liort as pofhble, we abandoned that intention, of which there would have been no end ; becaule, after remaining feveral days in thedenfell parts of the clouds, when a clear interval happened, the fignals could not be didingulfhed : fome the winds had blown down, and others had been carried away by the Indians who tended their cattle on the fides of the mountains, for the fake of the timber and ropes. To remedy which, the only expedient was to make the very tents in which we lodged ferve for fignals ; for the orders of the magiftrates, and threat- enings of the prielts, were of little confequence in fuch a defert country, where it was almoft impoifible to difcover the delinquents. The deferts of the mountains of Pambamai'ca and Pichincha were the noviciates, in which we were inured to the fevere hfe we led front the beginning of Auguft 1737 to the end of July 1739. During which time, our company occupied thirty-five deferts, and that of Don George Juan, thirty-two, the particulars of which fhall be enumerated, to- gether with the names of all thofe on which we erefted fignals for forming the triangles ; in all which the inconveniences were the fame, except that they became lefs fenfible, in proportion as our bodies became inured to fatigue, and naturalized to tlie inclemencies of thofe regions, fo that in time we were reconciled to a continual folitude, coai-fe pro- vifions, and often a fcarcity of thefe. The diverfity of temperatures did not in the leafh aifeft us, when we defcended from the intenfecold of one of thofe deferts into the plains and valleys, where the heat, though but moderate, feemed exceffive to thofe coining from fuch frozen regions. Laftly, without any concern, we encountered the dangers unavoidable among thofe fteep precipices, and a great variety of others to which we were continually expofed. The little cabins of the Indians, and the ftalls for cattle fcat- tered up and down on the fkirts of the mountains, and where we ufed to lodge in our palTage from one defert to another, were to us fpacious palaces ; mean villages appeared like fplendid cities, and the converfation of a prieft, and two or three of his companions, charmed us like the banquet of Xenophon : the little markets held in thofe towns, when we happened to pafs through them on a Sunday, feemed to us as if filled with all the variety of Seville fair. Thus the leaft objed became magnified, when we defcended for two or three days from our exile, which in forae places lafted fifty days fuccellivelv ; and it muff be owned, that there were particular occafions when our fuiferings were fuch that nothing could have fupported us under them, and animated us to perfevere, but that honour and fidelity which jointly confpired to induce both companies, whr.tever fhould be the confequence, not to leave imperfect a work fo long defired by all civilized nations, and fo particularly countenanced by the two powerful monarchs our fovereigns. It may not be amifs here to inform the reader of the different opinions conceived by the neighbouring inhabitants, with regard to our enterprife. Some admired our refo- kition, others could not tell what conftruftion to put upon our perfeverance ; and even thofe of the beft parts and education among. them were utterly at a lofs what to think. They made it their bufinefs to examine the Indians concenting the life we led, but the 3 f 2 aafwers 4:8 dlloa's votagk to south .vMEnrcA. anfwers they received only tended to increafe their doubts and aftonifhment. They faw that thofe people, though naturally hardy, robuil, and inured to fatigues, could not be prevailed upon, notnithdanding the encouragement of double pav, to continue any time with us. The ferenit)- in which we lived on thofe dreaded places was not unknown to them ; and they faw ^"ith what tranquillirv and conflancy we paffed from one fcene of folitude and labour to another. This to them appeared fo flrange, that they were at a lofs what to attribute it to. Some confidered us as little better than lunatics, others more fagacioufly imputed the whole to covetoufnefs, and that we were certainly endeavouring to difcover fome rich minerals by particular methods of our own invention ; others again fufpecied that we dealt in magic ; but all were invtDlved in a labvrinth of confufion with regard to the nature of our defign. And the more they reflected on it, the greater was their perplexit)-, being unable to difcover any thing proportionate to the pains and hardlhips we under\vent. And even when we informed them of the real motive of this expedidon, which caufed fo much aftonifhment, their ignorance of its importance would not fuffer them to give credit to what we faid ; fuf- pecHng that we concealed, under the veil of an incomprehenfible chimera, our real practices, of which, as I have already obferved, they had no good opinion. Among feveral pleafant adventures which this occafioned, I {hall only mention two, both of which are ftill frefh in my memor}' ; and may fer\'e to illuftrate the ftrange ideas thefe ignorant people formed of us. While we were at the fignal of Vengotafin, erected on a defert at no great diftance from the town of Latacunga, about a league from the place where we had pitched our field-tent was a cow-houfe, where we con- ftantly paffed the night ; for the afcent not being remarkably difficult, we could every morning, in fair weather, return foon enough to the tent to begin our obfervanons. One morning as we were palling to the fignal, we faw at a diftance three or four Indians, in appearance on their knees ; and we found indeed, on our approaching nearer, that this was their real pofture ; we alfo obferved that their hands were joined, and that they uttered words in their language with the greateft fervour and the moft fupplicant accent ; but by the pofirion of their eyes, it was e\-ident that we were the perfons whom thev thus addreifed. We feveral times made figns for them to rile, but they flill kept their pofture till we were got at a confiderable dillance. We had fcarce begun to prepare our inftruments within the tent, when we were alarmed with a repetition of the fame fupplicant vociferadons. On going out to know the caufe, we found the fame Indians again on their knees before the tent ; nor were we able, by all the figns we could make, to raife them from that pofture. There fortunately happened at that time to be with us a fervant who underftood both the Indian and Spaniih lan- guages ; and ha\'ing directed him to afk thefe poor people what they wanted of us, we were informed that the eldeft of them was the father of the others, and that his afs being either ftraved or ftolen, he came to us, as perfons who knew every thing, to entreat us to commiferate his great lofs, and put him in a method of recovering his beaft. This fimplicity of the Indians afforded us no fmall entertainment ; and though we did all we could, bv means of our interpreter, to undeceive them, ve found they were equallv tenacious of this ftrange error as of genuflexion ; and would ftill believe, that nothing was hid from us ; rill haNing wearied themfelves vnth thefe clamorous vodferarions, and finding we took no notice of them, thev redred, with all the marks of extreme forrow that we would not condefcend to inform them where they might find the afs ; and with a firm perfuafion that our refufal proceeded from ill-nature, and not irom Ignorance. The ulloa's voyage to sobth AaffiRicA. 429 The other adventure I fhall mention, happened to myfelf in particular, and not -with fimple and ignorant Indian peafants, but with one of the principal inhabitants of Cuenca. Wliile the whole company were on the mountain of Bueran, not far from the town of CaniTar, I received a meflage from the prieft of that place, informing me, that two Jefuits of my acquaintance were paffing that way, and, if I was defirous of feeing them, I might find them at his houfe. As I was cheerfully defcending the mountain to enjoy this pleafing invitation, I happened to be overtaken by a gentleman of Cuenca, who was going to take a view of his lands in that jurifdiftion, and had oblerved me coming from our tent. He was, it feems, acquainted with my name, though he had never feen me ; but obfei ving me dreffed in the gaib of the Meftizos, and the loweft clafs of people, the only habit in which we could perform our operations, he took me for one of the fervants, and began to examine me ; and I was determined not to undeceive him till he had finilhed. Among other things, he told me, that neither he nor any- body elfe would believe, that the afcertaining the figure and magnitude of the earth, as we pretended, could ever induce us to lead fuch a difmal and uncouth life ; that, however we might deny it, we had doubtlefs difcovered many rich minerals on thofe lofty deferts ; adding, that perfons in his circumflances were not to be fatisfied with fine words. Here I laboured- to remove the prejudices he entertained againfl our ope- rations ; but all I could fay only tended to confirm him in his notion ; and, at parting,, he added, that doubtlefs, by our profound knowledge in the magic art, we might make much greater difcoveries than thofe who were ignorant of it. Thefe opinions were blended with others equally abfurd and ridiculous ; but I found it impoflible to undeceive him, and accordingly left him to enjoy his own notions. Our feries of triangles in the fouth part being finifhed, and a fecond bafe meafured by each company, to prove the truth of our work, ve began our aftronomical obfer» vations ; but our inllruments not being perfectly adapted to that intention, we were obliged, in the month of December of the fanie year, to return to Quito, in order to conitruft another, on whofe accuracy we could fafely rely ; and this employed us till the firfl of Augufl of the following year 1740 ; when, without any farther lofs of time, we again repaired to Cuenca, and immediately began our obfervatioas ; but thefe being very tedious, were not finilhed before the end of September ; the atmofphere of that country being very unfavourable to aftronomical obfervations. For, in the deferts, the clouds in which we were fo frequently involved hindered us from difcerning the other fignals ; and in the city, over which they fpread a kind of perpetual pavilion, they hid the liars from us while they pafled the meridian ; but patience and refolution, infpired by the importance of our enterprife, having enabled us at laft to perform our tafk on the fouth fide of the equator, we prepared for our journey to the north of it, in order to make the aftronomical obfervations at the other extremity of the arch of the meridian, and thus put the finifhing hand to our work : but this was for fome time retarded by an accident of importance which called us to Lima. In December 1743, the reafons which detained us at Lima, Guayaquil, and in Chili, no longer fubfifting, we returned to Quito in January 1744, when Don George Juan and I prolonged the arch of the meridian four triangles, by which it was extended to the place where M. Godin, in 1740, had made the fecond aftronomical obfervation, and which he now repeated, and finilhed in the month of May 1744. Melfrs. Bouguer and iVl. de la Condamine having at that time finiftied the feveral parts afligned to them, had left Quito, in order to return to France ; the former by the way of Carthagena, and the latter by the river of the Amazons ; but the reft of the com- pany remained there fome time j fome for fear of being taken by the enemy, fome for want 430 ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. want of the means to defray the charges neceffary in fo long a journey, and others on account of their having conti-afted fome obligations, and were unwilling to leave the country till they could difcharge them. So that in the former only the natural defire of returning to their country prevailed, in order there to repofe themfelvcs after fuch a feries of labours and hardfhips, by which the health and vigour of all were in fome meafure impaired. CHAP. III. — The Names of the Deferts and other Places lultere the Signals were ere6led for forming the Series of Triangles for mcaf tiring an Arch of the Meridian. IN order to gratify the curiofity of the reader w ith regard to our operations, I ihall mention in feparate articles, the places where each company made their obfervations, and the time they were obliged to remain there ; omitting a detail of circumftances, many of which would be little more than a paraphrafe on the fubje£l of the preceding chapter. Nor fliall I here include thofe (lations ufed in the year 1736, after meafuring the bafe of Yaruqui, both on its extremities and in the deferis of Pambamarca and Yllahalo ; for the difpofition of the triangles being afterwards altered, they were repeated. Therefore, confidering them as not ufed at that time, I (hall begin with thofe ftations in which no fuch circumftances happened, and range them in the order they were occupied. Deferts on which the Signals were ereBed fur the Operations conduced by M. de la Conda- nine and niyfclf I. — Signal on the Defert of Pichincha. The fignal was at firft erefted on the higheil: fummit of Pichincha, but afterwards removed to another ftation at the foot of the pic ; the top having been afterwards found not to be the moft proper place. We began our obfervations on this mountain on the i4thof Auguft ^T^T^ but could not finilh them bcfoi'e the beginning of December following, II. — The Sighal on Oyambaro, the South Extremity of the Bafe of Yaruqui. On the 2cth of December 1737, we removed to Oyambaro ; and finifhed our ob- fervations neceffary to be made there on the 29th of the fame month. III. — Signal oh Caraburu, the Northern Extremity of the Bafe of Yaruqui. On the 30th of December we pafled to Caraburu, and continued there till the 24th of January 1738. This long ftay was partly occafioned by the badnefs of the weather, and partly by the want of fignals. IV. — Signal on the Defert of Pambamarca. On this defert of Pambamarca, where we had before been in 1736, on finiftiing the meafurement at Yaruqui, a fecond fignal was ereded here, and we went up the 26th of January I73'- The ftations immediately fubfequent to the admeafurement of the bafe of YaruquJ, in the year 1736, and afterwards not made ufe of, as we have already obferved, were common to both companies ; the method which was afterwards followed, for every one to obferve two angles in all the triangles, not having been thought of; thouorh it both fhortened the work, and, at the fame time, rendered it much eafier : fo that Don George 3 K 2 Juan 436 ulloa's voyage to south ameuica. Juan and Mr. Godin were on the deferts of Yllahalo and Pambamarca, at the fame time with Meff. Bouguer and Condamine and niyfelf. f I. II. — Signals on the Extremities of the Bafe of Yaruqui. In order to make the neceflary obfervations relating to thefe two fignals, they left Quito on the 20th of Auguft 1737, and had completely finilhed them by the :7th. III. — Signal on the Defert of Pambamarca.. After they had concluded all the neceflary obfervations at the extremities of the bafe, they went without delay to the defert of Pambamarca, and completely finifhed their operations by the firil: of September. IV. — Signal on the Mountain of Tanlagua. Having finifhed their obfervations on the defert, they came down to the little town of Ouenche, in that neighbourhood, in order to proceed from thence to Tanlagua ; but the Indians, who w^ere to accompany them, being no ftrangers to the extreme feveriry of the weather on that defert, difcouraged by their recent fufFerings on Pambamarca, and knowing they fhould ftill fuffer more on Tanlagua, were not to be found ; and the loweft clafs of inhabitants in the town, apprehending that they fhould be fent on this painful fervice, alfo left their habitations and abfconded ; fo that the joint endeavours of the alcalde and prieft to difcover them proved ineffectual ; and after a delay of two whole days, the curate, with great difficulty, prevailed on the facriflan, and other Indians em- ployed in the fervice of the church, to accompany them, and take care of the loaded mules as far as the farm-houfe of Tanlagua, where they arrived the 5th of September. The next day they began to afcend the mountain, which, being verj- fleep, took them up a whole day in climbing it. But this being more than the Indians were able to per- form, as they carried the field-tents, baggage, and inftiuments, they were obliged to ftop half way ; fo that thofe on the top were under a necefSty of pafTmg the night there without any fhelter ; and a hard frofl coming on, they were almofl perifhed with cold ; for they were fo greatly affected by it, that they had no ufe of their limbs till they returned to a warmer air. After all thefe hardfhips, the gentlemen could not finifh their obfervations, fome of the fignals being wanting, having either been blown dowTi by the \nnds, or carried away by the Indian herdfmen : fo that, during the interval, while perfons were employed in erecting others, they returned to Quito, and applied themfelves to examine the divifions of the quadrants, Thefe operations, being very tedious, employed them till the month of December, when, all the fignals which were wanting being replaced, they again, on the 20th of December, repaired to their pofl at Tanlagua; and on the 27th finifhed the obfervations neceflary to be made at that flation. V. — Sioxal on the Mountain of Guapulo. The fignal of Guapulo being erected on a mountain of no great height, and in the neighbourhood of Quito, their refidence was not necelTary ; for, by letting out from the city at day-break, they could reach the field tent, where the inftruments were left, early in the morning. Thefe journeys repeated every day, and though every moment of time was improved to the greateft advantage, it was the 24th of January 1738 before 1 they ULLOA S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. 437 they finiflied the obfervations, with that accurate precifion fo confpicuous in all their operations. VI. — Signal on the Cordillera and Defert of Guamani. They were obliged to make two journeys to the mountain of Guamani, the fignal having been firfl; mifplaced, fo as not to be feen from that eredted on Corazon ; and cpnfequently there was a neceflity for removing it. And though, in order to do this, they afcended the mountain on the -zSch of January, they found it neceffary to return thither on the yth of February, when they were fortunate enough to finifh every thing remaining the very next day. VII. — Signal on the Defert of Corazon. This mountain alfo the gentlemen were obliged to vifit twice ; the firft journey was on the 2oth of January, and the fecond on the 1 2th of March 1738. VIII. — Signal of Limpie-pongo, on the Defert of Cotopaxi. They went up to the defert of Cotopaxi on the 1 6th of March, and remained there till the 31ft; when they obferved that the fignal of Guamani was not vifible from thence, and therefore it wasneceifary to erefl: another in the intermediate fpace ; which being completed on the 9th of Auguft, they again repaired to the fignal of Limpie- pongo, on Cotopaxi ; where they finifhed all their operations by the 1 3th of the fame month, and left every thing in exadl order. In afcending the mountain in this fecond journey, the mule on which Don George Juan rode fell down a breach four or five toifes deep, but providentially without receiving the leaft hurt. As they had been obliged to ereft another fignal between thofe of Guamani and Limpie-pongo, in order to continue the feries of triangles ; fo there was alfo a neceflity for returning to fome ftations, to obferve again the angles which had before been deter- mined. Thefe operations, together with the experiments on the velocity of found, and the obfervations at the new fignal, filled up the interval from the time the operations were fufpended on Limpie-pongo, till they returned to finifh them. IX. — Signal on the Defert of Chinchulagua. The operations of the fignal of Chinchulagua, erefted on the defert of the fame name, were completed on the 8th of Auguft ; but a doubt arifing with regard to one of the angles obierved, for the greater certainty, they returned to this ftation, and again examined the angle in queilion, after they had finifhed their obfervations at Limpie- pongo. X. — Signal on the Mountain of Papa-urco. After verifying the obfervation on Chinchulagua, they removed to the fignal of Papa-urco, and finifhed their obfervations in the fame month of Augufl. Here they for fome time fufpended their operations, being called to Quito on affairs of importance, relating to the French academicians. XI. — Signal on the Mountain of Milin. The aflairs which had required M. Godin's prefence at Quito being terminated within the month, they returned, on the ill of September, to make the neceffary obferva- tions 43 S ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. tlons at the fignal of Milln, where they continued till the 7th, when they left it, having completely finifhed their operations. XII. — Signal on the Defert of Chulapu. From Milin they proceeded to the defert of Chulapu, where they remained till the 1 8th of September, when they had finifhed all their obfervations. Till this fignal, exclufive, each company had obferved the three angles of all the triangles ; both be- caufe they differed from one another, and to prove by this precifion the errors in the divifions of the quadrants, before obferved by other methods. But from this fignal, inclufive, each company obferved tv/o ahgles only of the other triangles, as had been agreed on. XIII. — Sia;^AL in Jivicatfu. In Jivicatfu they remained from the 18th to the 26th of September. This ftatiori was oneof themoft agreeable; for, befides the heighten which the fignal was erected, the temperature of the air, and the cheerful afpeft of the country, the town of Pilaro was in the neighbourhood, fo that they wanted for nothing. XIV. XV. — Signals on the Deferts of Mulmul and Guayama. Thefe two deferts are placed together, becaufe their fummits are united by gentle eminences j on one of which is a cow-houfe, ufed by the Indians when they go in fearch of their cattle, which feed on the fides of this mountain. In this cow-houfe Don George Juan, M. Gcdin, and their attendants, took up their quarters on the 3cth of September, and every morning, when the weather was favourable, repaired to the fignal erected on one or other of the eminences. But the diflance between the two ftations being very final!, and the obfervations made there requiring to be verified by thofe of other auxiliary triangles, it was abfolutely neceifary to determine exactly the ftations where thefe triangles were to be formed ; and to remain there till the diflances were fettled, and the obfervations relating to them concluded ; which opera- tions, notwithltanding the greatcft diligence was ufed, employed them till the 20th of Oaober. Every thing at the two preceding ftations being finiflied, they repaired to the village of Riobamba, determining to continue their work without interruption ; but meeting with fome difficulties concerning the moft advantageous pofition of the fubfcquent triangles, and money beginning to grow fiiort with, our whole fociety, both Spaniards and French, it was thought neceifary to make ufe of the interval while the proper places for erefting the fignals were determining, to procure fupplies. Accordingly, M. Godin and Don George Juan again fet out from Riobamba for Quito on the 7th of November ;•• but it was the 2d of February following before we had the pleafiire of con- gratulating them on their return, the former having been feized with a fever, which brought him very low, and detained them a confiderable time at Quito. XVI. XVII. — Signals on Amula and Sifa-pongo. The obfervations neceflary at the fignal of Amula were finiflied before the journey to Quito ; and from the 2d of February 1739, when they returned to Riobamba, till the 19th, they were employed in thofe relating to Sifa-pongo. X\TII. ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. 439 XVIII. — Signal on the Mountain of Sefgum. On the mountain of Sefgum they had occafion to flay only from the 20th to the 23d of February. For this fignal flood on the declivity of a mountain, and they vigilantly employed every moment when the other deferts were free from thofe clouds in which they are ufually involved. XIX. — Signal on the Defert of Senegualap. The obfervations at the fignal of Senegualap detained them from the 23d of February to the 13th of March. The length of the time was indeed the mofl difagreeable part, as otherwife they did not place this among the worfl Rations they had met with during their courfe of obfervations. XX. — Signal on the Defert of Chufay. From Senegualap they proceeded to the defert of Chufay, a flation which gave thefe gentlemen no lefs trouble than it had done us. Our company had no concern with the flation on this defert •, for according to the alternative eflablifhed between the tvpo companies, that of Senegualap was the place to which we were to repair. But after finifhing the obfervations at Lalangufo, being uneafy at the long flay of M. Godin and Don George Juan at Quito, to divert our thoughts by fome laborious employ- ment, we divided our company into two, in order to profecute the menfuratlon, till thofe gentlemen returned. Accordingly, M. Bouguer, at the head of one detachment, went to the fignal of Senegualap, and M. de la Condamine and myfelf repaired to that of Chufay. I5ut M. Godin and Don George Juan joining us there, we returned to our proper company, and the operations were continued in the order agreed on. XXI. — Signal on the Defert of Sinafaguan. This defert was one of thofe common to both companies ; and that of Don George Juan remained on it till the 29th of May, when the obfervations of both were finifhed. Thus every member of the two companies equally fhared in the fatigues of the opera- tions, and in the hardfhips unavoidable in fuch dreary regions. XXII. — Signal on the Defert of Ouinoaloma. The defert of Quinoaloma, like the former, may be claflfed among the mofl dif. agreeable flations in the whole feries ; for though they repaired hither from Sinafaguan, it was the 3ifl of the fame month before they could finifli the obfervations relating to this fignal. In their road from Quinoaloma they pafTed through the town of Azogues ; where leaving their inflruments and baggage, they went to Cuenca, to furvey the plains of Taiqui and Los Bannos, in order to make choice of one of them for meafuring the bafe ; and having pitched on the latter, and confulted with us relating to the fignals wanting, they returned to the town of Azogues. XXIII. — Signal on the Defert of Yafuay. - On the 1 5th of June they proceeded to the defert of Yafuay, and continued there till the nth of July; when, having finiflied their obfervations, they returned to Cuenca, where they employed themfelves in meafuring the bafe on the plain of Los 8 Bannos, 440 ULLOA S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. Bannos, and in beginning the aftronomical obfervations. This they profecuted with inceflant diligence till the loth of December following, when, in order to continue them with the greater precifion and certainty, a new infirument became neceflary, and for this purpofe they repaired to Quito. XXIV. XXV. XXVI. XXVII. — Signals of Namarelte, Guanacauri, Los Bannos, and the Tower of the great Church of Cuenca. Whilfl they were making the aftronomical obfervations at Cuenca, they alfo, by unwearied diligence, finifhed thofe relating to the geometrical menfuration at the four ftations of Namarelte, Guanacauri, Los Bannos, and the tower of the great church of Cuenca. The firft three ftations were to conneO: the bafe (which reached from Guanacauri to Los Bannos) with the feries^of triangles ; and the laft ferved for the ob- fervatory jointly with the bafe. The obfervations at all thefe were completely finifhed at this time ; for thougl^ the next year we found it neceflary to go to Cuenca to repeat the aftronomical obfervations, yet all the operations relating to the geometrical menfu- rations were accurately finiflied at this time. XXVm. XXIX. XXX. XXXI. XXXn.— signals on the Mountains of Guapulo, Pambamarca, Campanario, Cuicocha, and Mira. In the year 1744, when we returned to the province of Quito, in order to conclude the whole work, having conquered the difficulties which obliged us to intermit the aftronomical obfervations, as we have already obferved, Don George Juan added fix ftations to the feries of triangles, there being a neceflity for repeating the obfervations of Cuapulo and Pambamarca, in order to extend the feries of triangles farther to the northward, and of his repairing again to the mountains of Campanario and Cuicocha. Here, and at Pambamarca, he was obliged to remain amidft all the inconveniences and hardftiips of thofe dreadful regions, till he had completed the neceflTary obfervations ; all which he bore with great magnanimity ; but at thofe of Guapulo and Mira, which ferved to conneft the obfervatory, thofe inconveniences were avoided ; but as the obfer- vations at the laft ftation were jointly performed by both companies, the particulars of them have been already mentioned. CHAP. IV. — Defcription of the City of Quito. AS in the preceding defcriptions of the feveral cities and towns, I have not fwelled the accounts with chronological and hiftorical remarks, I ftiall obferve the fame method with regard to Quito, and only give an accurate account of the prefent ftate of this country, the manners and cuftoms of the inhabitants, and the fituation of the feveral places ; that fuch as know them only by name, may avoid thofe dangerous errors which too often refult from forming a judgment of things without a thorough knowledge of them. It may not, however, be amifs to premife, that this province was fubjefted to the empire of Peru, by Tupac-Inga-Yupanqui, the eleventh Ynca. Garcilafo, in his hiftory of the Yncas of Peru, the beft guide we can follow on this fubjeft, obferves, that this conqueft was made by the army of that emperor, commanded by his eldeft fon Hueyna-Capac, who alfo fucceeded him in the empire. Hueyna-Ca- pac, among other natural children, had one called Ata-Hualpa, by a daughter of the hft ULLOA S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. 44I lafl king of Quito ; and being extremely fond of him, on account of his many amiable qualities and accompliftiments, in order to procure him an honourable fettlement, pre- vailed on his legitimate and eldefl fon Huafcar to allow him to hold the kingdom of Quito as a fief of the empire ; it being an invariable law, that all conquefts were to be perpetually annexed to the empire, and not alienated from it on any account whatever. Thus Hueyna-Capac enjoyed the fatisfadlion of feeing his favourite a fovereign of large dominions. But on the death of his father, this prince, of whom fuch great hopes had been conceived, ungratefully rebelled, feized on the empire, imprifoned his brother, and foon after put him to a violent death. His profperity was, however, but of Ihort continuance ; for he fuffered the fame fate by order of Don Francifco Pizarro, who had fent Sebaftian de Belalcazar to make a conquefl of the kingdom of Quito. He routed the Indians wherever they ventured to face him ; and having foon, by a feries of vic- tories, made himfelf mafter of the kingdom, and in the year 1534, rebuilt the capital, which had fuft'ered extremely from inteftine commotions, called it San Francifco de Quito, a name it ftill retains, though it was not till feven years after that the title of city was conferred upon it. We found, from accurate obfervations, that the city of Quito is fituated in the lati- tude of 0° 13' 33" fouth, and in 298** 15' 45" of longitude from the meridian of Te- nerifFe. It ftands in the inland parts of the continent of South America, and on the eallern (kirts of the Weft Cordillera of the Andes. Its diftance from the coaft of the South Sea is about thirty-five leagues wefi:. Contiguous to it, on the north-weft, is the mountain and defert of Pichincha, not lefs famous among ftrangers for its great height, than among the natives for the great riches it has been imagined to contain ever fmce the times of idolatry ; and this only from a vague and unfupported tradition. The city is built on the acclivity of that mountain, and furrounded by others of a mid- dling height, among the breaches, or guaycos, as they are called here, which form the eminences of Pichincha. Some of thefe breaches are of a confiderable depth, and run quite through it, fo that great part of the buildings ftand upon arches. This renders the ftreets irregular and extremely uneven, fome being built on the afcents, defcents, and fummits of the breaches. This city, with regard to magnitude, may be compared to one of the fecond order in Europe ; but the unevennefs of its fituation is a great difadvantage to its appearance. Near it are two fpacious plains ; one on the fouth called Turu-bamba, three leagues in length ; and the other on the north, termed Inna-Quito, about two leagues in extent. Both are interfperfed with feats and cultivated lands, which greatly add to the profpeft from the city, being continually covered with a lively verdure, and the neighbouring plains and hills always enamelled with flowers, there being here a perpetual fpring. This fcene is beautifully diverfified with large numbers of cattle feeding on the eminen- ces, though the luxuriancy of the foil is fuch, that they cannot confume all the herbage. Thefe two plains contract as they approach the city, and, at their junction, form a neck of land, covered with thofe eminences on which part of Quito ftands. It may, perhaps, appear ftrange, that, notwithftanding two fuch beautiful and extenfive plains are fo near the city, a fituation fo very inconvenient ftiould be preferred to either. But the firft founders feem to have had lefs regard for convenience and beauty, than for preferving the remembrance of their conqueft, by building on the fite of the ancient capital of the Indians, who made choice of fuch places for erefting their towns ; pro- bably from their being better adapted to defence. Befides, the Spaniards, during the infancy of their conqueft, little imagined this place would ever increafe to its prefent magnitude, Quito, however, was formerly in a much more fiourifhing condition than VOL. XIV. 31- at 442 UHOa's voyage to south AMERICA. at prefent ; the number of its inhabitants being eonfiderably decreafed, particularly the Indians, whole llreets of whofe huts are now forfaken, and in ruins. South-weft from Quito, on the neck of land belonging to the plain of Turu-bamba, is an eminence called Panecillo, or the Little Loaf, froni its figure refembling a fugar loaf. Its height is not above a hundred toifes, and between it and the mountains cover- ing the eaft part of the city is a very narrow road. From the fouth and weft fides of the Panecillo iflue feveral ftreams of excellent v/ater ; and from the eminences of Pi- chincha feveral brooks flow down the breaches, and, by means of conduits and pipes, plentifully fupply the whole city with water ; whilft the remainder, joining in one ftream, forms a river called Machangara, which wallies the fouth parts of the city, and is croifed over by a ftone bridge. Pichincha, in the Pagan times, was a volcano, and even fome fiery eruptions have been known fince the conqueft. The mouth, or aperture, was in a pic nearly of the fame height with that on which we took our ftation ; and the top of it is now covered with fand and calcined matter. At prefent no fire is ejeiled, nor does there any fmoke iiTue from it. But fometimes the inhabitants are alarmed by dreadful noifes, caufed by winds confined in its bowels, which cannot fail of recalling to their minds the terrible deftrudion formerly caufed by its eru£lations, when the whole city and neighbouring country were often, as it were, buried under a deluge of aflies, and the light of the fun totally intercepted, for three or four days fuccefiively, by impenetrable clouds of duft. In the centre of the plain of Inna-Ouito is a place called Rumibamba, i. e. a flony plain, being full of large fragments of rocks thrown thither by the ejedions of the mountain. We have already obferved, that the higheft part of Pichincha is covered with ice and fnow, confiderable quantities of which are brought down to the city, and mixed with the liquors drunk by people of fafliion. The principal fquare in Quito has four fides, in one of which ftands the cathe- dral, and in the oppofite the epifcopal palace ; the third fide is taken up by the town-houfe, and the fourth by the palace of the audience. It is very fpacious, and has in the centre an elegant fountain. It is indeed rather disfigured than adorned by the palace of the audience ; which, inftead of being kept in repair conformable to the dignity of government, the greateft part of it has been futfered to fall into ruins, and only a few halls and offices taken any care of j fo that even the outward walls continually threaten to demolilli the parts now ftanding. The four ftrects terminating at the angles of the fquare are ftraight, broad, and handfome ; but at the diftance of three or four quadras (or the diftance between every two corners, or ftacks of building, and which here confifts of about a hundred yards, more or lefs) begin the troublefome declivities. This inequality deprives the inhabitants of the ufe of coaches, or any other wheel-carriage. Perfons of rank, however, to diftinguilh themfelves, are attended by a fervant carrying a large umbrella : and ladies of the firft quality are car- ried in fedans. Except the four ftreets above-mentioned, all the reft are crooked, and deftitute both of fymmetry and order. Some of them are croffed by bleaches, and the houfes ftand on the fides of their winding courfe and irregular projedions. Thus fome parts of the citv are fituated at the bottom of thofe breaches, while others ftand on their fummits. The principal ftreets are paved ; but thole which are not, are almoft impaflable after rain, which is here very Common. Befides the principal fquare, there are two others very fpacious, together with feveral that are fmaller. In thefe the greateft part of the convents are fituated, and make a handfome appearance ; the fronts and portals being adorned with all the embellilhments of architedure, particularly the convent of the order of Francifcans, which, being wholly of free-ftone, mult have coft a prodigious fum ; and indeed the juftnefs of the proportions, ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 443 proportions, the difpofidon of the parts, the elegant tafte and execution of the work, render it equal to moft of the admired buildings in Europe. The principal houfes are large ; feme of them have fpacious and well-contrived apart- ments, though none are above one flory in height, which is feldom without a balcony toward the ftreet ; but their doors and windows, particularly thofe within, are very low and narrow, following in thefe particulars the old cultom of theTndians, who conflantly built their houfes among breaches and inequalities, and were alfo careful to make the doors very narrow. The Spaniards plead in defence of this cullom,that the apartments are freer from wind ; but be that as it may, I am inclined to think that this peculiarity owed its origin to a blind imitation of the Indians. The materials made ufe of in building at Quito are adobes, or unburnt bricks, and clay ; and to the making of the former the earth is fo well adapted, that they laft a long time, provided they are defended from the rain. They are cemented or joined together by a certain fubftance called fangagua, a fpecies of mortar of uncommon hardnefs, ufed by the ancient Indians for building houfes and walls of all kinds, feveral remains being ftill to be feen near the city, and in many other parts of the kingdom, notwith (landing the remarkable inclemency of the weather ; a fuiiicient proof of its ftrength and duration. The city is divided into feven parifhes, the Sagrario, St. Sebaftian, St. Barbaria, St. Roque, St. Mark, St. Prifca, and St. Blaize. The cathedral, befides the richnefs of its furniture, is fplendidly adorned with tapeftry hangings and other coflly decorations ; but in this refpeft the other parifli-churches are fo mean as to have fcarce neceffaries for performing divine worfliip. Some of them are without pavement, and with every other mark of poverty. The chapel del Sagrario is very large, wholly of flone, and its archi- tecture executed in an elegant tafte ; nor is the difpofition of the infide inferior to the beauty of its external appearance. The convents of monks in Quito are thofe of the Auguftines, Dominicans, and the Fathers of Mercy, which are the heads of provinces ; but befides thefe, there is an- other of Francifcan Recolledls, another of Dominicans, and another of the Fathers of Mercy. In this ciiy is alfo a college of Jefuits ; two colleges for feculars, one called St. Lewis, of which the Jefuits have the direction ; and the other St. Ferdinand, and is under the care of the Dominicans. In the firft are twelve royal exhibitions for the fons of auditors and other officers of the crown. It has alfo an univerfity under the patronage of St. Gregory. That of the fecond is a royal foundation, and dedicated to St. Thomas ; the falaries of theprofeffors are paid by the crown. Some of the chairs in this college are filled by graduates, as thofe appropriated to the canon and civil law, and phyfic ; but the latter has been long vacant for want of a profefTor, though the degrees would be difpenfed with. The Francifcan convent has a college, called San Buena Ventura, for the religious of its order ; and, though under the fame roof with the convent, has a different government and economy. Quito has alfo feveral nunneries, as that of the Conception, the orders of St. Clare, St. Catharine, and two of bare-footed ThereCans. Of thefe one was originally founded ■in the town of Latacunga ; but having, together with the place itfelf, been deflroyed by an earthquake, the nuns removed to Quito, where they have ever fince continued. The college of Jefuirs, as well as all the convents of monks, are very large, well built, and very fplendid. The churches alfo, though the architefture of fome is not modern, are fpacious, and magnificently decorated, efpecially on folcmn feflivals, when it is amazing to behold the vait quantities of wrought plate, rich hangings, and coftly ornaments, which heighten the folemnity of worfliip, and increafe the reputation of thefe .churches for magnificence. If thofe of the nunneries do not. on thofe occafiocs, exhibit 3 L 2 fuch 444 IJLL0A*S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. fuch an amazing quantity of riches, they exceed them in elegance and delicacy. It is quite otherwife in the parifli-churches, where poverty is confpicuous, even on the moft folemn occafions ; though this is partly imputed to thofe who have the care of them. Here is alfo an hofpital, with feparate wards for men and women ; and though its re- venues are not large, yet by a proper economy they are made to anfwer all the neceffary expences. It was formerly under the direction of particular perfons of the city, who, to the great detriment of the poor, neglected their duty, and fome even embezzled part of the money received : but it is now under the care of the order of our Lady of Bethlehem, and by the attention of thefe fathers, every thing has put on a different afped, the whole convent and infirmary having been rebuilt, and a church erefted, which, though fmall, is very beautiful and finely decorated. This order of our Lady of Bethlehem has been lately founded under the name of a congregation, and had its origin in the province of Guatemala. The name of the founder was Pedro dc San Joff-j^h Betaneur, a native of the town of Chafna (or Villa Fuerte) on the illand of Teneriffe, in the year 1626. After his death, which happened in the year 1667, his congregation was approved of by a bull of Clement X. dated the i6th of May 1672, and ftill more formally in another of 1674. In 1687, Innocent XL erefted it into a community of regulars, fince when it has begun to increafe in thefe countries as a religious order. It had indeed before palfed from Guatemala to Mexico, and from thence, in the year 1671, to Lima, where the fathers had the care of the hof- pital del Carmen. In the city of St. Miguel de Piura, they took poffeffion of the hofpiial of St. Ann in the year 1678, and that of St. Sebaftian in Truxillo in 1680 ; and their probity and diligence in difcharging thefe trufls induced other places to felect them as direftors of their hofpitals, and among the reft the city of Quito ; where, notvvithftand- ing they have been only a few years, they have repaired all former abufes, and put the hofpital on a better footing than it had ever known before. The fathers of this order go bare-footed, and wear a habit of a dark-brown colour, nearly refembling that of the Capuchins, which order they alfo imitate in not {having their beards. On one fide of their cloak is an image of our Lady of Bethlehem. Every fixth year they meet to choofe a general, which ceremony is performed alternately at Mexico and Lima. ' Among the courts, whofe feflions are held at Quito, the principal is that of the Royal Audience, which was eftabliflied there in the year 1563, and confifts ofaprcfident (who is alfo governor of the province with regard to matters of law), four auditors, who are at the fame time civil and criminal judges, and a royal fifcal, fo called, as, befides the caufes brought before the Audience, he alfo takes cognizance of every thinr;; relating to the revenue of the crown. Befides this, there is alfo another fifcal. called Protestor dc los Indios (Protestor of the Indians), who folicitsfor them, and when injured pleads in their defence. The jurifdiftion of this court exitnds to the utmoli I'mits of ihe pro- vince, with no other appeal than to the Council of the Indies, and this only in cafe of a rejeftion of a petition, or flagrant injuilice. The next is the Exchequer, or chamber of finances, the chief officers of which are an accomptant, a treafurer, and a royal fifcal. The revenues paid into the receipt of this court are, the tributes of the Indians of this jurifdidion and thofe of Otabalo, Villa dc fian Miguel de Ibara, Latacunga, Chimbo, and Riobamba ; as alfo the taxes levied in thofe parts, and the produce of the cuftoms at Babahoyo, Yaquachc, and Caracol : ■which fums arc annually diflribiUed, partly to Carthagcna and Santa Martha, for pay- ing the falaries of the prefidents, fifcals, corregidors, together with the ftipends of the prieftsj ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. 445 priefts, and the governors of Rlaynas and Quijos ; partly for the officers of the Cora- mandries, and partly for the caciques of the villages. The Tribunal de Cruzada, or Croifade, has a commifTary, who is generally fomedig- nitarv of the church ; and a trcafurer, who is alfo the accomptant, through whofe hands e%'ery thing paflls relating to the Croifade. Here is alfo a treafury for the effedts of perfons deceafed ; an inflitution long fince eftabliflied all over the Indies, for receiving the goods of thofe whofe lawful heirs were in Spain, that thus they might be fecured from thofe accidents to which, from difhonefly or negligence, they would be liable in private hands, and fecurely kept for the perfons to which they belong : an inflitution originally very excellent, but now greatly abufed, great defalcations being made in the ellates before they are reftored to their proper owners. Befides thefe tribunals, here is a commiilary of the inquifition, with an alguazil major, and familiars appointed by the holy office at Lima. The Corporation confifls of a corregidor, two ordinary alcaldes chofen annually, and regiJores. Thefe fuperintend the eleftion of the alcaldes, which is attended with no fmall diilurbance in this city, perfons of all ranks being divided into the two parties of Creoles, and Europeans or Chapitones, to the great detriment of private repofe and fo- ciability. This affembly alfo nominates i he alcalde major of the Indians, who muft be a governor of one of the Indian towns within five leagues of the city, and has under him other inferior alcaldes, for the civil government of it ; and this alcalde major, together with the others, are little more than the alguazils, or officers of the corregidor or ordi- nary alcaldes of the city, though at firft they were invelled w'nh much greater power. Befides thefe, here are others called alcaldes de harrieros, whofe bufinefs it is to provide mules, &c. for travellers ; and though all thefe are fubordinate to the alcalde major, yet he has very liule authority over them. The cathedral chapter confifts of the bifhop, dean, archdeacon, chanter, treafurer, a dottoral, a penitentiary, a magiftral, three canons by prefentation, four prebends, and two demi-prebends, with the following revenues. That of the bifhop 24,000 dol- lars ; the dean 2,500; the four fucceeding dignities 2,000 each ; the canons 1,500 each ; the prebends 600, and the demi-prebends 420. This church was erefted into a cathedral in the year 1545, and, among other feflivals, are celebrated in it, with amaz- ing magnificence, thofe of Corpus Chrifti, and the Conception of our Lady, when all the courts, offices, and perfons of eminence, never fail to affifl. But the fmgular pomp of the proceffion of the hoft in the former, and the dances of the Lidians, mufl not be omitted. Every houfe of the ftreets through which it palfes are adorned with rich hang- ings ; and fuperb triumphal arches are erected, with altars at ftated diflances, and higher than the houfes, on which, as on the triumphal arches, the fpeftator fees with admiration immenfe quantities of wrought plate, and jewels, difpofed in fuch an elegant manner as to render the whole even more pleafing than the aftoniffiing quantity of riches. This fplendor, together with the magnificent dreifes of the perfons who aflill at the proceffion, render the whole extremely folemn, and the pomp and decorum are botfi continued to the end of the ceremony. With regard to the dances, it is a cuftom, both among the pariffies of Quito and all thefe of the mountains, for the prieft, a month before the celebration of the feafts, to felecl a number of Indians who are to be the dancers. Thefe immediately begin to praftife the dances they ufed before their converfion to chriflianity. The mufic is a pipe and tabc^r, and the moft extraordinary of their motions fome awkward capers ; in Ihort, the whole is little to the tafte of an European. Within a few days of the folem- 6 nity. 446 ulloa's voyage to south amekica. nity, they drefs themfelves in a doublet, a fliirt, and a woman's petticoat, adorned in the finefl manner poflible. Over their ftockings they wear a kind of pinked buflvins, on which are faflened a great number of bells. Their head and face they cover with a kind of mafk, formed of ribbands of feveral colours. Drefled in this fantaflical garb, they proudly call themfelves angels, unite in companies of eight or ten, and fpend the whole day in roving about the ftreets, highly delighted with the jingling of their bells ; and frequently flop and dance, to gain the applaufes of the ignorant multitude, who are ftrangers to elegant dancing. But what is really furprifing, is, that without any pay, or view of intereft, unlefs they think it a religious duty, they continue this exercife a whole fortnight before the grand feitival, and a month after it, without minding either their labour or their fimilies ; rambling about, and dancing the whole day, without being either tired or difgufted, -though the number of their admirers daily decreafe, and the applaufe is turned into ridicule. The fame drefs is worn by them in other procefTions, and at the bull-feafts, when they are excufed from labour, and therefore highly pleafed with them. The corporation and cathedral chapter keep, by vow, two annual feftivals in honour of two images of the Virgin, which are placed in the villages of Guapulo and Quinche, belonging to this juriidiftion. They are brought with great folemnity to Quito, where a feitival is celebrated, with great magnificence and rejoicing, and is fucceeded by nine days' devotion, the Audience and other courts allifting at the fefti- val. The ftatues are afterwards returned with the feme folemnity to their refpeftive churches, the firfl of which is one league from Quito, and the other fix. Thefe feftivals are held in commemoration of the mercy and adiftance vouchfafed by the Holy Virgin at the time of an earthquake and terrible ejections from Pichincha, by which Latacunga, Hambato, and a great part of Riobamba, were utterly deftroyed ; while the prayers offered up at Quito to the holy Virgin, induced her to interpofe in fo fmgular a man- Tier, that not the leaft misfortune attended this city, though apparently in equal danger 'with thofe which fufiered. CHAP. V. — Of the Inhabitants cf Quito. THIS city is very populous, and has, among its inhabitants, fome families of high rank and diflinftion ; though their number is but fmall confidering its extent, tlic poorer clafs bearing here too great a proportion. The former are the defcendants either of the original conquerors, or of prefidents, auditors, or other perfons of cha- rafter, who at difierent times came over from Spain inverted with fome lucrative poll, and have ftill preferved their luftre, both of wealth and defcent, by intermarriages, without intermixincc with meaner fainilies thoujjh famous for their riches. The commonalty may be divided into four claffes ; Spaniards or Whites, Meftizos, Indians or Natives, and Negroes, with their progeny. Thefe lafl: are not proportionally fo numerous as in the other parts of the Indies ; occafioned by its being fomething inconvenient to bring Negroes to Quito, and the different kinds of agriculture being ■generally performed by Indians. The name of Spaniard here has a difi'erent meaning from that of Chapitone or Euro- pean, as properly fignifying a perfon defcended from a Spaniard without a mixture of blood. Many Meftizos, from the advantage of a frcfh complexion, appear to be Spa- niards more than thofe who are fo in reality ; and from only this fortuitous advantage are X accounted ULLOA S VOYAGE TO SOUTH ABIERICA. 447 accounted as fuch. The Whites, according to this conflruGion of the word, may be confidered as one-fixth part of the inhabitants. The Mellizos are the defcendants of Spaniards and Indians, and are to be confi- dered here in the fame different degrees between the Negroes and Whites, as before at Carthagena ; but with this difference, that at Quito the degrees of Meflizos are not carried fo far back ; for, even in the fecond or third generations, when they acquire the European colour, they are confidered as Spaniards. The complexion of the Meflizos is fwarthy and reddifh, but not of that red common in the fair Mulattos. This is the firfl: degree, or the immediate iffue of a Spaniard and Indian. Some are, however, equally tawny with the Indians themfelves, though they are diftinguifhed from them by their beards : while others on the contrary, have fo fine a complexion that they might pafs for Whites, were it not for fome figns that betray them, when viewed attentively. Among thefe, the moft remarkable is the lownefs of the forehead, which often leaves but a fmall fpace between their hair and eye-brows ; at the fame time the hair grows remarkably forward on the temples, extending to the lower part of the ear. Befides, the hair itfelf is harfli, lank, coarfe, and very black ; their nofe very fmall, thin, and has a little rifing on the middle, from whence it forms a fmall curve, terminating in a point, bending towards the upper lip. Thefe marks, befides fomedark fpots on the body, are fo conflant and invariable, as to make it very difficult to conceal the fallacy of their complexion. The Meflizos may be reckoned a third part of the inhabitants. The next clafs is the Indians, who form about another third ; and the others, who are about one-fixth, are the Cafts. Thefe four claffes, according to the moft authentic accounts taken from the parifh regifter, amount to between 50 and 60,000 perfons, of all ages, fexes, and ranks. If among thefe claffes the Spaniards, as is natural to think, are the moll eminent for riches, rank, and power, it mufl at the fame time be owned, however melancholy the truth may appear, they are in proportion the mofl poor, miferable and diflreffed ; for they refufe to apply themfelves to any mechanical bufinefs, confidering it as a difgrace to that quality they fo highly value themfelves upon, which confifts in not being black, brown, or of a copper-colour. The Meflizos, whole pride is regulated by prudence, readily apply themfelves to arts and trades, but chufe thofe of the greatefl repute, as painting, fculpture, and the like, leaving the meaner fort to the Indians. They are obferved to excel in all, particularly painting and fculpture ; in the former a Meflizo, called Miguel de Santiago, acquired great reputation, fome of his works being flill preferved and highly valued, while others were carried even to Rome, where they were honoured with the unanimous applaufes of the virtuofi. They are remarkably ready and excellent at imitation, copying being indeed befl adapted to their phlegmatic genius. And what renders their exquifite performances (till more admirable, is, that they are deflitute of many of the inflruments and tools requifite to perform them with any tolerable degree of accuracy. But, with thefe talents, they are fo exceffively indolent and flothful, that, inflead of working, they often loiter about the flreets during the whole day. The Indians, who are generally fhoemakers, bricklayers, weavers, and the like, are not more induflrious. Of thefe the mofl aftive and tradable are the barbers and phlebotomifls, who in their refpedtive callings, are equal to the mofl expert hands in Europe. The fhoemakers, on the other hand, diflinguifh themfelves by fuch fupinenefs and floth, that very often you have no other way left to obtain the fhoes you have befpoke, than to procure materials, feize on the Indian, and lock him up till they are finiflied. This is indeed partly owing to a wrong cuflom of paying for the work before it is dgne j and when the Indian h?.s once 448 ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. once got the money, he fpends it all in chicha *, fo that while it lafts he is never fobcr ; and' it is natural to think that it will not be eafy afterwards to prevail on him to work for what he has fpent. The drefs here differs from that ufed in Spain, but lefs fo with the men than of the women. The former, who wear a black cloak, have under it a long coat, reaching dovm to their knees, with a clofe fleeve, open at the fides, without folds ; and along the feams of the body, as well as thofe of the fleeves, are button-holes, and two rows of buttons, for ornament. In every other particular, people of fortune affect great magnificence in their drefs, wearing very commonly the fineft gold and (ilver tiflues. The Meflizos in general wear blue cloth, manufactured in this country. And though the loweft clafs of Spaniards are very ambitious of difUnguilhing themfelves from them, either by the colour or fafhion of the clothes, little difference is to be obferved. The mofl fmgular dref«, with regard to its meannefs, is that of the Indians, which confifls only of white cotton drawers, made either from the fluffs of the country, or from others brought from Europe. They come down to the calf of the leg, where they hang loofe, and are edged with a lace fuitable to the ftuff. The ufe of a fliirt is fupplied by a black cotton frock, wove by the natives. It is made in the form of a fack, with three openings at the bottom, one in the middle for the head, and the others at the corners for the arms, and thus cover their naked bodies down to the knees. Over this is a capifayo, a kind of ferge cloak, having a hole in the middle for putting the head through, and a hat made by the natives. This is their general drefs, and which they never lay alide, not even while they ileep. And ufe has fo inured them to the weather, that without any additional clothing or covering for their legs or feet, they travel in the coldefl parts with the fame readinefs as in the warmefl. The Indians who have acquired fonie fortune, particularly the barbers and phleboto- mifls, are very careful to dillinguifli themfelves from their countrymen, both by the finenefs of their drawers, and alfo by wearing a fliirt, though without fleeves. Round the neck of the fhirt they wear a lace four or five fingers in breadth, hanging entirely round like a kind of ruff or band. One favourite piece of finery is filver or gold buckles for their fhoes ; but they wear no ftockings or other coverings on their legs. Inftead of the mean capifayo, they wear a cloak of fine cloth, and often adorned with gold or filver lace. The drefs of the ladies of the firfl rank confifts of a petticoat already defcribed in our account of Guayaquil. On the upper parts of their body they wear a fhift, on that a loofe jacket laced, and over all a kind of bays, but made into no form, being worn juft as cut from the piece. Every part of their drefs is, as it were, covered with lace ; and thofe which they wear on days of ceremony are always of the richefl ftufls, with a pro- fufion of ornaments. Their hair is generally made up in trefl'es, which they form into a kind of crofs, on the nape of the neck ; tying a rich ribband, called balaca, twice round their heads, and with the ends form a kind of rofe at their temples. Thefe rofes are elegantly intermixed with diamonds and flowers. When they go to church, they fome- iimes wear a full petticoat ; but the moll ufual drefs on thefe occafions is the veil. The Meflizo women affedl to drefs in the fame manner as the Spanifli, though they cannot equal them in the richnefs of their fluffs. The meaner fort go barefooted. Two kinds of dreffes are worn by the Indian women ; but both of them made in the fame plain manner witli thofe worn by the men : the whole confiding of a fhort petticoat, and a veil of American bays. The drefs of the lowefl clafs of Indian women is in cflbcl • A kind of beer or ale made of maize, and very intoxicating. only ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 449 only a bag of the fame make and fluff as the frocks of the men, and called Anaco. This they faften on the flioulders with two large pins, called Tupu or Topo. The only parti- cular in which it differs from the frock is, that it is fomething longer, reaching down to the calf of the leg, and faftened round the waift with a kind of girdle. Inftead of a veil, they wear about their neck a piece of the fame coarfe ftuff dyed black, and called Lliella ; but their arms and legs are wholly naked. Such is the habit with which the lower clafs of Indian women are contented. The caciqueffes, or Indian women, who are married to the alcaldes majors, gover- nors, and others, are careful to diftinguifli themfelves from the common people by their habits, which is a mixture of the two former, being a petticoat of bays adorned with ribbands ; over this, inftead of the anaco, they wear a kind of black manteau, called Afco. It is wholly open on one fide, plaited from top to bottom, and generally faftened round the waift with a girdle. Inftead of the fcanty lliella which the common Indian women wear hanging from their 'fhoulders, thefe appear in one much fuller, and all over plaited, hanging down from the back part of their head almoft to the bottom of the petticoat. This they faften before with a large filver bodkin, called alfo Tupu, like thofe ufed in the anaco. Their head-drefs is a piece of fine linen curioufly plaited, and the end hanging down behind : this they call Colla, and is worn both for diftinc- tion and ornament, and to preferve them from the heat of the fun ; and thofe ladies, that their fuperiority may not be called in queftion, never appear abroad without (hoes. This drefs, together with that univerfally worn by Indians, men and women, is the fame with that ufed in the time of the Yncas, for the propriety of diftinguifhing the feveral claffes. The Caciques at prefent ufe no other than that of the more wealthy Meftizos, namely, the cloak and hat ; but the fhoes are what chiefly diftinguifh them from the common Indians. The men, both Creoles and Spaniards, are well made, of a proper ftature, and of a lively and agreeable countenance. The Meftizos in general are alfo well made, often taller than the ordinary fize, very robuft, and have an agreeable air. The Indians, both men and women, are generally low, but well proportioned, and very ftrong ; though more natural defefts are to be obferved among them than in the other claffes of the human fpecies : fome are remarkably fhort, fome ideots, dumb and blind, and others deficient in fome of their limbs. Their hair is generally thick and long, which they wear loofe on their fhoulders, never tying or tucking it up, even when they go to ileep. But the Indian women plait theirs behind with ribband, and the part before they cut a little above the eye-brows from one ear to another ; which form of hair they cull Urcu, and are fo fond of this natural ornament, that the greateft affront poffible to be offered to an Indian of either fex, is to cut off their hair; for whatever corporal punifhment their mafters think proper to inflift on them, they bear with a dutiful tran- quillity ; but this is a difgrace they never forgive ; and accordingly it was found' necef- fary for the government to interpofe, and limit this punilhment to the moft enormous crimes. The colour of their hair is generally a deep black ; it is lank, harfh, and coarfe as that of horfes. The Meftizos, on the other hand, by way of diftinguiffiing themfelves from the Indians, cut off their hair ; but the women do not in this refpedl follow the example of their huft)ands. The Indians have no beard ; and the greateft alteration occafioned by their arriving at the years of maturity, is only a few ftraggling hairs on the chin, but fo ftiort and thin as never to require the affiftance of the razor ; nor have either males or females any indications of the age of puberty. The youths of family are here inftrufted in philofophy and divinity, and fome pro- ceed to the ftudy of the civil law, but follow that profeflion with reluftance. In thefe vjoi. XIV. 3 M fcience^s 45© ULLOA S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMEKICA. fciences they demonftrate a great deal of judgment and vivacity, but are very deficient in hiftorical and political knowledge, as well as other fciences, which improve the hu- man underftanding, and carry it to a certain degree of perfection not otherwife attain- able. This is, however, their misfortune, not their fault ; being owing to the want of proper perfons to inflrudl them ; for with regard to thofe who vifit this country on commercial affairs, their minds have generally another turn, and their whole time is devoted to acquire riches. Thus after feven or eight years of fcholaftic inftruftion, their knowledge is very limited ; though endowed with geniufes capable of nialdng the greateff progrefs in the fciences. In the women of rank here, their beauty is blended with a graceful carriage and an amiable temper ; qualities indeed common to the whole fex in this part of America. Their children are always educated under their own eyes, though little to their advan- tage, their extreme fondnefs preventing them from leeing thofe vices which fo often bring youth to ruin and infamy ; nor is it uncommon for them to endeavour to hide the vices of the fon from the knowledge of the father ; and in cafe of deteftion, to interpofe paflionately in defence of their favourite, in order to-prevent his being properly correded. This country is obferved to abound more in women than men ; a circumftance the more remarkable, as thofe caufes which in Europe induce men to leave their country, namely, travelling, commerce, and war, can hardly be faid to fubfifl here. Numbers of families may be found in this country, that have a great variety of daughters, but not one fon among them. Nature alfo in the male fex, efpecially thofe who have been tenderly brought up, begins to decay at the age of thirty ; whereas the females rather enjoy a more confirmed ftate of health and vigour. The caufe of this may, in a great meafure, be owhig to the climate ; food may alfo contribute to it ; but the principal caufe, I make no doubt, is their early intemperance and voluptuoufnefs ; this deliili- tates the flomach, fo that the organs of digeftion cannot perform their proper office ; and accordingly many conflantly eject: their vi(5luals an hour or two after their meals. Whctiier this be owing to a cuftom now become natural, or forced, the day they fail of fuch ejedion, they are fureto find themfelves indifpofed. But amidlt all their weak- neffes and indifpofitions they live the general time, and many even arrive at a very ad- vanced age. The only employment of perfons of rank, who are not ecclefiaftics, is from time to time to vifit their eftates or chacaras, where they refide during the time of liarvefl ; but very few of them ever apply themfelves to commerce, indolenily permitting that lucra- tive branch to be poflelfed entirely by the Chapitones or Europeans, who travel about the country, and purfue their intered with great afliduity. Within the city, however, fome few Creoles and Mellizos fo far overcome their indolent difpofitions as to keep fhops. ihe want of proper employments, together with the flolh fo natural to the inhabi- tants of this country, and the great negletl of education in the common people, are the natural parents of that fondnefs fo remarkable in thefe parts for balls and entertain- ments ; and thefe at Quito are both very frequent, and carried to fuch a degree of licentioufnefs and audacity, as cannot be thought of without deteftation ; not to men- tion the many tumults and quarrels which thence derive their origin. But fuch brutality may be confidered as the natural confequence of the rum and chicha, which on thefe occafions are drunk in enormous quantities. It mull, however, be remembered, that no perfon of any rank or charafter is even feen at thefe meetings, their fellivity being conducted with the llriclelt decency and decorum. Rum ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 45 1 Rum is commonly drunk here by perfons of all ranks, though very moderately by thofe of fafhion ; particularly at entertainments, when it is made into a kind of cordial. They prefer it to wine, which they fay difagrees with them. The Chapitones alfo accuftom themfelves to this liquor ; wine, which is brought from Lima, being very fcarce and dear. Their favourite liquor is brandy, brought alfo from Lima, and is lefs inflammative than rum. The diforders arifing from the exceffive ufe of fpirituous liquors are chiefly feen among the Meftizos, who are continually drinking while they are mailers of any money. The lower clafs of women, among the Creoles and iVIeftizos, are alfo addicled to the fame fpecies of debauchery, and drink exceilively. Another common liquor in this country is the mate, which anivvers to tea in the Eaft Indies, though the method of preparing and drinking it is fomething different. It is made from an herb, which, in all thefe parts of America is known by the name of Paraguay, as being the produce of that country. Some of it is put into a calabafh tipped with filver, called here Mate orTotumo, with a fufficient quantity of fugar, and feme cold water, to macerate it. After it has continued in this manner fome time, the calabafh is filled with boiling water, and the herb being reduced to a powder, they drink the liquor through a pipe fixed in the calabafh, and having a flrainer before the end of it. In this manne<- the calabafli is filled feveral times with water and frelh fupplies of fugar, till the herb fubfides to the bottom, a fufficient indication that a frefli quantity is wanting. It is alfo ufual to fqueeze into the liquor a few drops of the juice of lemons or Seville oranges, mixed with fome perfumes from odoriferous flowers. This is their ufual drink in the morning falling, and many ufe it alio a6 their evening regale. I have nothing to object againfl the falubrity and ufe of this liquor ; but the manner of drink- ing it is certainly very indelicate, the whole company drinking fuccelFively throughjhe fame pipe. Thus the mate is carried feveral times round the company,, till all are fatif- fied. The Chapitones make very little ufe of it ; but among the Creoles it is the highefl enjoyment ; fo that even when they travel, they never fail to carry with them a fufficient quantity of it. This may indeed be owing in fome meafure to the difpatch and facility with which it is prepared ; but till they have taken their dofe of mate, they never eat. There is no vice to which idlenefs is not a preliminary : nor is floth ever unaccom- panied with fome vice or other. What mufl then be the flate of morality in a country where the greateft part of the people have no work, employment, or calling, to occupy their thoughts ; nor any idea of intelledlual entertainment ? The prevalence of drunk- ennefs has been already mentioned, and the deflrudive vice of gaming is equally com- mon. But in the latter, perfons of rank and opulence, whofe example is always followed, have led the way ; and their inferiors have univerfally followed in their de- flruclive paths, to the ruin of families, and the breach of conjugal afl'edion ; fome lofing their flocks in trade, others the very clothes front their backs, and afterwards thofe belonging to their wives. Hiking the latter to recover their own. This propenfity in the Indians for gaming has by fome been imputed to caufes, in which I can perceive no manner of relation. To me it plainly appears owing to the leifure of fome, who know not how to fpend their time, and to the natural floth and idlenefs of others. I'he common people and Indians are greatly addicted to theft, in which it mufl be owned they are very artful and dextrous. The domeflics alio, cannot be faid to be entirely free from this fault, which is attended with the inconvenience of referve and fufpicion on the part of their mafler. The Meftizos do not want for audacity in any kind of theft or robbery, though in themfelves arrant cowards. Thus, even at an unfeafonable hour, they will not venture to attack any one in the ftreet ; but their 3 i\i 2 common 45« ■ ULLOA's voyage to south AJfERICA. common praftice is, to fnatch off the perfon's hat, and immediately feek their fafety in their flight ; fo that, before the perfon robbed can recover himfelf, the thief is out of fight However trifling this may feem, yet fometimes the capture is very confiderable ; the hats generally worn by perfons of any rank, and even by the wealthy citizens when dreffed in their cloaks, are of white beaver, and of themfelves worth fifteen or twenty dollars, or more, of the Quito currency, befides a hatband of gold or filver-lace, faft- ened with a gold buckle fet with diamonds or emeralds. It is very rare that any fuch thing as a robbery on the highway is heard of; and even thefe may be rather ac- counted houfebreaking, as they are cither committed by the carriers themfelves or their fervants. In order to execute their mod remarkable pieces of villany within the city, they fet fire, during the darknefs of the night, to the doors of fuch fhops or ware- houfes, where they flatter themfelves with the hopes of finding fome fpecie ; and hav- ing made a hole fufliciently large for a man to creep through, one of them enters the houfe, while the others (land before the hole to conceal their accomplice, and to receive what he hands out to them. In order to prevent fuch pradices, the principal traders are at the expence of keeping a guard, which patroles all night tlirough the ftreets where attempts of this kind are moft to be apprehended ; and thus the fliops are fecured ; for, in cafe any houfe or fliop is broke open, the commander of the guard is obliged to make good the damage received. Neither the Indians, Mefl:izos, nor any of the loweft clafs of people, think the taking any eatables a robbery ; and the Indians have a particular rule of conducl in their ope- rations, namely, if one of them happens to be in a room where there are feveral veffcls of filver, or other valuable effefts, he advances flowly, and with the utmofl: circum- fpedion, and ufually takes only one piece, and that the leafl: valuable, imagining that it will not be fo foon miffed as if he had taken one of greater price. If detefted in the faft, he refolutely denies it, with a yanga, a very expreffive word in his language, and now often ufed by the Spaniards of this country, fignifying that it was done without any neceffity, without any profit, without any bad intention. It is indeed a word of fuch extent in difculpating, that there is no crime to which it is not applicable with regard to the acquittal of the delinquent. If he has not been feen in the very fact, be the circumfliances ever fo plain againfl: him, the theft can never be afcertained, no Indian having ever been known to confefs. In Quito, and in all the towns and villages of its province, difierent dialeds are fpoken, Spanifli being no lefs common than the Inga. The Creoles, in particular, ufe the latter equally with the former ; but both are confiderably adulterated with borrowed words and expreffions. The firfl; language generally fpoken by children is the Inga ; the nurfes being Indians, many of whom do not underftand a word of Spanifh. Thus,, the children being firft ufed to the Indian pronunciation, the impreflion is fo ftrong on their minds, that few can be taught to fpeak the Spanifli language before they are five or fix years old ; and the corruption adheres fo Ibongly to them, that they fpeak a jargon compofed of both ; an impropriety which alfo gains ground among the Euro- peans, and even perfons of rank, when once they begin to underftand the language of the country. But what is ftill more inconvenient, they ufe improper words ; fo that a Spaniard himfelf, not accuftomed to their dialed, h;is often need of an interpreter. The fumptuous maimer of performing the laft offices to the dead, mentioned in the defcription of Carthagena, is frugal and fimple, if compared to that uled at Quito and all its jurifdidion. Their oftentation is fo enormous in this particular, that many fami- lies of credit are ruined by a prepofterous emulation of excelling others. The inhabit- ants may therefore be properly faid to toil, fcheme, and endure the greatelt labour and fatigue, tLLOA's VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. 453 fatigue, merely to enable their fucceflbrs to bury them in a pompous manner. The deceafed muft have died in very mean circumftances indeed, if all the religious .com- munities, together with the chapter of the cathedral, are not invited to his funeral, and during the proceflion the bells tolled in all the churches. After the body is ccmniittad to the earth, the obfequies are performed in the fame expenfive manner, befides the anniverfary which is folemnized at the end of the year. Another remarkable inftance of their vanity is, never to bury in their own parifli church ; fo that any one feen to be buried in that manner may be concluded to have been of the lowefl: clafs, and to have died wretchedly poor. The cuftom of making an offering either at the obfequies or anniverfary, is ftill obferved, and generally confifls of wine, bread, beafls, or fowls, according to the ability or inclination of the furvivor. Though Quito cannot be compared to the other cities in thefe parts for riches, yet it is far removed from poverty. It appears from feveral particulars, to have been in a much more flourifhing ftate ; but at prefent, though it has many fubflafttial inhabitants, yet few of them are of diftinguiftied wealth, which, in general, confifts in landed eftates, applied to feveral ufes, as I fhall fhovv in the fequel. Here are alfo no very fplendid fortunes raifed by trade. Confequently it may be inferred, that the city is neither famous for riches, nor remarkable for poverty. Here are indeed confiderable eftates, though their produce is not at all equal to their extent : but the commerce, though fmall, is continual. It muft alfo be obferved, to the credit of this city, that the more wealthy families have large quantities of plate, which is daily made ufe of; and in- deed, through the feveral clafles, their tables are never deftitute of one piece of plate at leaft. CHAP. VI. — Of the Temperature of the Air at Quito ; Di/iinSiion between Winter and Summer ; Inconveniences., Ad-vantages, and Diftcmpers. TO form a right judgment of the happy temperature of the air of Quito, experience muft be made ufe of, to correft the errors which would arife from mere fpeculation j as without that unerring guide, 6r the information of hiftory, who would imagine, that in the centre of the torrid zone, or rather under the equinoctial, not only the heat is very tolerable, but even, in fome parts, the cold painful ; and that others enjoy all the delights and advantages of a perpetual fpring, their fields being always covered with verdure, and enamelled with flowers of the moft lively colours ! The mildnefs of the climate, free from the extremes of cold and heat, and the conftant equality of the nights and days, render a country pleafant and fertile, which uninformed reafon would, from its fit nation,, conclude to be uninhabitable: Nature has here fcattered her bleilings with fo liberal a hand, that this country furpaffes thofe of th'e temperate zones, where the viciffitudes of winter and fummer, and the change from heat to cold, caule the ex- tremes of both to be more fenfibly felt. The method taken by Nature to render this country a delightful habitation, confifts In an aflemblage of circumftances, of which, if any were wanting, it would either be utterly uninhabitable, or fubje£t to the greateft inconveniences. But by this extraor- dinary affemblage, the effefl: of the rays of the fun is averted, and the heat of that glorious planet moderated. The principal circumftarice in this affemblage is its elevated fituatlon above the furface of the fea ; or, rather, of the whole earth ; and thus, not only the refleftion of the heat is dimlnifhed, but by the elevation of this country, the winds are more fubtile, congelation more natural, and the heat abated. Thefe are fuch 1 2 natural 454 ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. natural efFefts as muft doubtlefs be attributed to its fituation ; and is the only circum- ftance from whence fuch prodigies of nature, as are obferved here, can proceed. In one part are mountains of a ftupendous height and magnitude, having their fummits covered with fnow ; on the other, volcanoes flaming within, while their fummits, chafms, and apertures, are involved in ice. The plains are temperate ; the breaches and valleys hot ; and, laflly, according to the difpofition of the country, its high or low fituation, we find all the variety of gradations of temperature, poflible to be con- ceived between the two extremes of heat and cold. Quito is fo happily fituated, that neither the heat nor cold is troublefome, though the extremes of both may be felt in its neighbourhood ; a Angularity fufficiently demon- ftrated by the following thermometrical experiments. On the 31 ft of May 1736, the liquor in the thermometer ftood at 1011 ; at half an hour after twelve at noon, at 1014; on the firft of June, at fix in the morning, at 101 1 ; and, at noon, at ioi2f. But what renders this equality ftill more dc-lightful, is, that it is conftant throughout the whole year, the difference between the feafons being fcarce perceptible. Thus the mornings are cool, the remainder of the day warm, and the nights ot an agreeable temperature. Hence the reafon is plain, why the inhabitants of Quito make no dilie- ence in their drefs during the whole year ; fome wearing fiiks or light ftufts, at the fame time others are drelfed in garments of fubftantial cloth ; and the former as little incom- moded by the cold as the latter are by heat. The winds are healthy, and blow continually, but never with any violence. Their ufual fituations are north and fouth, though they fometimes fliift to other quarters, with- out any regard to the feafon of the year. Their inceffant permanence, notuithlfanding their conftant variations, preferves the country from any violent or even difagreeable im- preflions of the rays of the fun. So that, were it not for fome inconveniences to which this country is fubjeft, it might be confidered as the moft happy fpot on the whole earth. But when thefe difagreeable incidents are confidered, all its beauties are buried in obfcu- rity ; for here are dreadful and amazing tempefts of thunder and lightning, and the ftill more deftruftive fubterraneous earthquakes, which often furprife the inhabitants in the midft of fecurity. The whole morning, till one or two in the afternoon, the weather is generally extremely delightful ; a bright fun, ferene and clear fky, are commonly feen ; but afterwards the vapours begin to rife, the whole atmofphere is covered with black clouds, which bring on fuch dreadful tempefts of thunder and lightning, that all the neighbouring mountains tremble, and the city too often feels their dreadful eftedfs. LaUly, the clouds difcharge themfelves in fuch impetuous torrents of rain, that in a very fhort time the ftrects appear like rivers, and the fquares, though fituated on a Hope, like lakes. This dreadful fcene generally continues till near fun-fet, when the weather clears up, and Nature again puts on the beautiful appearance of the morning. Sometimes, indeed, the rains continue all the night, and they have been known to laft three or four days fuccelTively. ' ^ On the other hand, this general courfe of the weather has its exceptions, three, four, or fix, or even eight fine days fucceeding each other ; though, after raining fix or eight days in the manner above mentioned, it is rare that any lalls during the two or three fucceeding. But, from the moft judicious obfervations, it may be concluded, that thefe intervals of fine or foul weather make up only one fifth of the days of the year. The diftindlion of winter and fummer confifts in a very minute difference obfervable between the one and the other. The interval between the month of September,- and April, May, or June, is here called the winter feafon ; and the other months compofe the fummer. In the former feafon the rain chiefly prevails, and in the fecond the inhabit- ants frequently enjoy intervals of fine weather j but whenever the rains are difcontinued 8 for ULLOA S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. 455 for above a fortnight, the inhabitants are in the utmoft confternation, and public prayers are offered up for their return. On the other hand, when they continue any time ■without intermiffion, the hke fears return, and the churches are again crowded with fupplicants for obtaining fine weather. For a long drought here is produdive of dan- gerous diftempers ; and a continual rain, without any intervals of fun-lhine, deftroys the fruits of the earth : thus the inhabitants are under a continual anxiety. ' Befides the advantages of the rains for moderating the intenfe rays of the fun, they are alfo of the greatefl: benefit in cleanfing the ftreets and fquares of the city, which by the filthinefs of the common people at all hours, are every where full of ordure. Earthquakes cannot be accounted a lefs terrible circumflance than any of the former ; and if not fo frequent as in other cities of thefe parts, they are far from being uncom- mon, and often very violent. While we continued in this city and its jurifdidlion, I particularly remember two, when feveral county-feats and farm-houfes were thrown down, and the greater part of the numerous inhabitants buried in ruins- It is doubtlefs to fome unknown quality of the temperature of the air, that the city owes one remarkable convenience, which cannot fail of greatly recommending it : namely, being totally free from mofchitos or other infecls of that kind, which almofl render life a burthen in hot countries. They are not known to the inhabitants ; even a flea is feldom feen here ; nor are the people molelled with venomous reptiles. In (hort, the only troublefome infed: is the pique or nigua, whofe noxious effe£ts have been already treated of. Though the plague or peftilence, in its proper fenfe, be not known here, no inftance of its ravages having appeared in any part of Americii, yet there are fome diftempers which have many fymptoms of it, but concealed under the names of malignant fpotted fevers and pleurifies ; and thefe generally iVeep away fuch prodigious numbers, that, when they prevail, the city may with propriety be faid to be vifited with a peftilential contagion. Another difeafe common here is that called mal del valle, or vicho ; a dif- temper fo general, that, at the firft attack of any malady, they make ufe of medicines adapted to the cure of it, from its ufually feizing a perfon two or three days after a fever. But M. de Juffieu often obferved, that the remedies were generally adminiftered to per- fons not at all affefted by the diftemper, which, in his opinion, is a gangrene in the reftum ; a difeaie very common in that climate, and confequently at the firft attack all means fhould be ufed to prevent its progrefs. Perfons who labour under a flux are moft liable to that malady ; but the inhabitants of this country being firmly per- fuaded that there can be no diftemper that is not accompanied with the vicho, the cure is never delayed. The operation muft be attended with no fmall pain, as a peflary, compofed of gun-powder, Guinea-pepper, and a lemon peeled, is infinuated into the anus, and changed two or three times a day, till the patient is judged to be out of danger. The venereal difeafe is here fo common, that few perfons are free from it, though its effeds are much more violent in fome than in others ; and many are afflicted with it, without any of its external fymptoms. Even little children, incapable by their age of having contracSled it aflively, have been known to be attacked in the fame manner by it as perfons who have acquired it by their debauchery. Accordingly there is no reafon for caution in concealing this diftemper, its commonnefs effacing the difgrace that in other countries attends it. The principal caufe of its prevalence is, negligence in the cure. For the climate favours the operations of the medicines, and the natural temperature of the air checks the mahgnity of the virus more than in other countries. And hence few are falivated for it, or will undergo the trouble of a radical cure. This difeafe 456 ' ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. difeafe muft naturally be thought in fome meafure to fhorten their lives ; though it is not uncommon to fee perfons live fevent)' years or more, without ever having been entirely free from that diftemper, either hereditary, or contracted in their early youth. During the continuance of the north and north-eaft winds, which are the coldeft from paffing over the frofly deferts, the inhabitants are afRifted with very painful catarrhs, called Pechugueras. The air is then lomething difagreeable, the mornings being fo cold as to require warmer clothing ; but the fun foon difperfes this incon- venience. As the peftilence, whofe ravages among the human fpecies in Europe, and other parts, are fo dreadful, is unknown both at Quito and throughout all America, fo is alfo the madnefs in dogs. And though they have fome idea of the peitilence, and call thofe difeafes fimilar in their elfefts by that name, they are entirely ignorant of the canine madnefs ; and exprefs their aftoniflimeiit when an European relates the melancholy effects of it. Thofe inhabitants, on the other hand, are here fubjed to a diftemper unknown in Europe, and may be compared to the fmall-pox, which few or none efcape ; but having once got through it, they have nothing more to apprehend from that quar- ter. This diftemper is one of thofe called pefte ; and its fymptoms are convulfions in every part of the body, a continual endeavour to bite, delirium, vomiting blood ; and thofe whofe conftitutions are not capable of fupporting the conflids of the diftemper, perilh. But this is not peculiar to Quito, being equally common throughout all South America. CHAP. VII. — Fertility of the Territories of Quito, and the common Food of its Inhabitants. THOUGH an account of the fruits fhould naturally fucceed that of the climate, I determined, on account of their variety, and their being different in different parts, to defer a circumftantial defcription, till I come to treat more particularly of each of the jurifdiftions. So that I fliall here i-nly take a tranfient view of the perennial beauty and pleafantnefs of the country ; which has hardly its equal in any part of the known world : the equability of its air exempts it from any fenfible changes, whereby the plants, corn, and trees, are ftripped of their verdure and ornaments, their vegetative powers checked, and themfelves reduced to a torpid inadivity. The fertility of this country, if fully defcribed, would appear to many incredible, did not the confideration of the equality and benignity of the climate inforce its probability. For both the degrees of cold and heat are here fo happily determined, that the moifture continues, and the earth feldom fails of being cherifhed by the fertilizing beams of the fun, fome part of every day ; and therefore it is no wonder that this country fliould enjoy a greater degree of fertility than thofe where tiie fame caufes do not concur ; efpecially if we confider, that there 19 no i'enfible diftcience throughout the year ; fo that the fruits and beauties of the feveral feafons ar- here feen at the fame time. The curious European obferves, with a pleafmg admiration, that whilft fome herbs of the field are fading, others of the fame kind Uf fpringuig up ; and whilft fome flowers are lofmg their beauty, others are blow- ing, to continue the enamelled profped. When the fruits have obtained their maturity, and :he leaves begin to change their colour, frcfli leaves, bloffoms, and fruits, are fecn in tbeir proper gradations on the fame tree. The fame inceffant fertility is confpicuous in the corn, both reaping and fowing bebg carried on at the fame time. That corn which has been recently fown is. coming up; ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. 457 up ; that which has been longer fown is in its blade, and the more advanced begins to bloflbm. So that the declivities of the neighbouring hills exhibit all the beauties of the four feafons at one fingle view. Though all this is generally feen, yet there is a fettled time for the grand harvefl. But fometimes the moft favourable feafon for fowing in one place, is a month or two after that of another, though their diftance is not more than three or four leagues ; and the time for another at the fame diftance not then arrived. Thus, in different fpots, fometimes in one and the fame, fowing and reaping are performed throughout the whole year, the forwardnefs or retardment naturally arifing from the different fituations, as mountains, rifing grounds, plains, valleys, and breaches ; and the tem- perature being different in each of thefe, the times for performing the feveral operations of hufbandry muft alfo differ. Nor is this any contradiction to what I have before advanced; as will be feen in the following account of the jurifdiftion. This remarkable fecundity of the foil is naturally productive of excellent fruits and corn of every kind, as is evident from the delicacy of the beef, veal, mutton, pork, and poultry of Quito. Here is alfo wheat bread in fufficient plenty ; but the fault is, that the Indian women, whofe bufmefs it is to make it, are ignorant of the beft methods both of kneading and baking it ; for the wheat of itfelf is excellent, and the bread baked in private houfes equal to any in the known world. The beef, which is not inferior to that of Europe, is fold in the markets by the quarter of the hundred for four rials of that country money, and the buyer has the liberty of choofmg what part he pleafes. Mutton is fold either by the half or quarter of a fheep ; and when fat, and in its prime, the whole carcafe is worth about five or fix rials. Other fpecies of provifions are fold by the lump, without weight or nieafure, and the price regulated by cuftom. The only commodity of which there is here any fcarcity is pulfe ; but this deficiency is fupplied by roots, the principal of which are the camates, arucachas, yucas, ocas, and papas ; the three former are the natives of hot countries, and cultivated in the planta- tions of fugar canes, and fuch fpots are called vallies, or yungas, though thefe names have different fenfes, the former fignifying plains in a bottom, and the latter thofe on the fides of the Cordillera ; but both in a hotter expofure. In thefe are produced the plantains, guincos, Guinea-pepper, chirimogas, aguacates, granadillas, pinas, guayabas, and others natural to fuch climates, as I have already obferved in other countries. The colder parts produce pears, peaches, neftarines, quaitambos, aurimelos, apricots, melons, and water-melons ; the laft have a particular feafon, but the others abound equally throughout the whole year. The parts which cannot be denominated either hot or cold, produce frutillas, or Pfru ftrawberries, and apples. The fucculent fruits, which require a warm climate, are in great plenty throughout the whole year, as China and Seville oranges, citrons, lemons, limes, cidras, and toronjas. Thefe trees are full of bloffoms and fruit all the year round, equally with thofe which are natives of this climate. Thefe fruits abundantly fupply the tables of the inhabitants, where they are always the firft ferved up, and the laft taken away. Befides the beautiful contraft they form with the other diflies, they are alfo ufed for increafing the pleafure of the palate, it being a cuftom among the people of rank here, to eat them alternately with their other food, of which there is always a great variety. The chirimoyas, aguacates, guabas, granadillas, and Peruvian ftrawberries, being fruits of which, as well as of the ocos and papas, I have not yet given any defcripiion, I fhall here give the reader a brief account of them. The chirimoya is uuivtrfally allowed to be the moft delicious of any known fruit either of India or Europe. Its VOL. XIV. 3 N dimenfions 458 ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. dimenfions are various, being from one to five inches in diameter. Its figure is im- perfeftly round, being flatted towards the fl:alk. ; where it forms a kind of navel ; but all the other parts nearly circular. It is covered with a thin foft fhell, but adhering fo clofely to the pulp, as not to be feparated without a knife. The outward coat, during its growth, is of a dark green, but on attaining its full maturity becomes fome- what lighter. This coat is variegated with prominent veins, forming a kind of net- work all over it. The pulp is white, intermixed with feveral almoft imperceptible fibres, concentring in the core, which extends from the hollow of the excrefcence to the oppofite fide. As they have their origin near the former, fo in that part they are larger and more difliinft. The flefh contains a large quantity of juice refembling honey, and its tafte fweet mixed with a gentle acid, but of a moft exquifite flavour. The feeds are formed in feveral parts of the flefli, and are about feven lines in length, and three or four in breadth. They are alfo fomewhat flat, and fituated longi- tudinally. The tree is high and tufted, the ftem large and round, but with fome inequalities ; full of elliptic leaves, terminating in a point. The length is about three inches and a half, and the breadth two or two and a half. But what is very remarkable in this tree is, that it every year flieds and renews its leaves. The bloffom, in which is the embryo of the fruit, differs very little from the leaves in colour, which is a darkifh green ; but when arrived to its full maturity is of a yellowifli green. It refembles a caper in figure, but fomething larger, and compofed of four petals. It is far from being beautiful ; but this deficiency is abundantly fupplied by its incomparable fra. grancy. This tree is obferved to be very parfimonious in its bloflbms, producing only fuch as would ripen into fruits, did not the extravagant paffion of the ladies, for the excellence of the odour, induce them to purchafe the bloflbms at any rate. The aguacate, which in Lima and other parts of Peru is known by the ancient Indian name Plata, may alfo be clafled among the choicelt fruits of this country. Its figure in fome meafure refembles the calabafhes of which fnuff-boxes are made ; that is, the lower part is round, and tapers away gradually towards the fl;alk ; from whence to its bafe the length is ufually between three and five inches. It is covered with a very thin, glolfy, fmooth fliell, which, when the fruit is thoroughly ripe, is detached from the pulp. The colour, both during its growth and when arrived at perfedion^ is green, but turns fomething paler as it ripens ; the pulp is folid, but yields to the preflure of the finger ; the colour white, tinged with green, and the tafl:e fo infipid as to require fait to give it an agreeable relifli. It is fibrous, but fome more fo than others. The fl:one of this fruit is two inches long, one and a half in thicknefs, and terminates in a point. The tafl:e is four. It may be opened with a knife, and con- fifts of two lobes, between which may be diftinftly perceived the germ of the tree. "Within the Ihell is a very thin tegument, which feparates it from the pulp, though fometimes the tegument adheres to the pulp, and at other times to the fliell. The tree is lofty and full of branches ; the leaf, both in dimenfion and figure, fomething different from that of the chirimoya. In the province of Quito they give the name of guabas to a fruit, which, in all the other parts of Peru, is called by its Indian name Pacaes. It confifls of a pod like that of the algarobo, a little flat on both fides. Its ufual length is about a foot, though there are different fizes, fome larger and fome fmaller, according to the country where they grow. Its outward colour is a dark green, and covered with a down, which feels fmooth when ftroked downwards, and rough when the hand is moved in the contrary direftion, as in velvet. The pod, opened longitudinally, is found 9 divided ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 459 divided into feveral cells, each containing a certain fpungy medulla, very light, and equal to cotton in whitenefs. In this are inclofed fome black feeds of a very difpro- portionate fize, the medulla, whofe juice is fweet and cooling, not being above a line and a half in thicknefs round each feed. The granadilla refembles a hen's egg in fliape, but larger. The outfide of the fhell is fmooth and gloffy, and of a faint carnation colour, and the infide white and foft. It is about a line and a half in thicknefs, and pretty hard. This Ihell contains a vifcous and liquid fubftance, full of very fmall and delicate grains lefs hard than thofe of the pomegranate. This medullary fubftance is feparated from the ftiell, by an extreme fine and tranfparent membrane. This fruit is of a delightful fweetnefs, blended with acidity, very cordial and refreftiing, and fo wholefome that there is no danger in indulging the appetite. The two former are alfo of the fame innocent quality. The granadilla is not the produce of a tree, but of a plant, the bloflbm of which refembles the paflion-flower, * and of a moft delicate fragrance. But we muft obferve a remark- able Angularity in the fruits of this country, namely, that they do not ripen on the trees, like thofe of Europe, but muft be gathered and kept fome time ; for if fuffered to hang on the trees they would decay. The laft of the fruits I fhall mention is the frutilla, or Peru ftrawberry, very different from that of Europe in fize ; for though generally not above an inch in length, and two-thirds of an inch in thicknefs, they are much larger in other parts of Peru. Their tafte, though juicy and not unpalatable, is not equal to thofe of Europe. The whole difierence between the plant and that known in Spain confifts in its leaves being fome- what larger. The papas are natives of a cold cHmate ; and being common in feveral parts of Europe, where they are known by the name of potatoes, all I fliall fay of them is, that they are a favourite food with the inhabitants of thefe countries, who eat them inftead of bread, nor is there a made difli or ragout in which they are not an ingredient. The Creoles prefer them to any kind of meat, or even fowl. A parricular difti is made of them, and ferved up at the beft tables, called Locro ; and is always the laft, that water may be drank after it, which they look upon as otherwife unwholefome. This root is the chief food of the lower clafs ; and they find it fo nutritive and ftrengthening, that they are not defirous of more folid food. The oca is a root about two or three inches in length, and about half an inch, or fomething more, in thicknefs, though not every where equal, having a kind of knots where they twift and wreath themfelves. This root is covered with a very thin and tranfparent fkin, whofe colour is in fome yellow, in fome red, and others orange. It is eaten either boiled or roafted, and has nearly the fame tafte as a chefnut ; with this difference, however, common to all the fruits of America, that the fweetnefs pre- dominates. It is both pickled and preferved, the latter being what the Americans are very fond of. This root is alfo an ingredient in-many made difties. The plant is fmall, like the camote, yucas, and others already defcribed. With regard to the corn of this country, there is no neceffity for enumerating the fpecies, they being the fame uith thofe known in Spain. The maize and barley are ufed by the poor people, and particularly by the Indians, in making bread. They have feveral methods of preparing the maize ; one is by parching, which they call Camea. They alfo make from this grain a drink called Chica, ufed by the Indians in * This is the identical paffion-flower, which in England never bears any fruit, the climate being too cold. A. 3 N 2 the 460 ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. the times of the Yncas, and ftill very common. The method of making it is this : they fteep the maize in water till it begins to fprout, when they fpread it in the fun, where it is thoroughly dried ; after which they roaft and grind it, and of the flour they make a decoftion of what ftrength they pleafe. It is then put into jars or caiks, with a proportional quantity of water. On the fecond or third day it begins to ferment, and when that is completed, which is in two or three days more, they efteem it fit for drinking. It is reckoned very cooling ; and that it is inebriating, is fufficiently evident from the Indians : thofe people have indeed fo little government of themfelves, that they never give over till they have emptied the calk. Its tafte is not unlike cyder ; but feems in fome meafure to require the difpatch of the Indians, turning four in feven or eight days after the fermentation is completed. Befides its fuppofed quality of being cooling, it is, among other medical properties, confelfedly diuretic ; and to the ufe of this liquor the Indians are fuppofed to be indebted for their being ftrangers to the flran- gury or gravel. It is alfo not furprifmg that thofe people who drink it, without any other food than cancha, mote, and muchea, are, with the help of this liquor, healthy, flrong, and robuft. Maize boiled till the grains begin to fplit, when it is called Mote, ferves for food to the Indians, the poor people, and fervants in famihes, who being habituated to it, prefer it to bread. " Maize, before it is ripe called Chogllos, is fold in the ear, and among the poorer fort of inhabitants eftecmed a great dainty. Befides the grains of the fame fpecies with thofe in Spain, this country has one pecu- liar to itfelf, and very well deferving to be ranked among the molt palatable foods ; but ftill more valuable for its being one of the prefervatives againfl all kinds of abfcelTes and impoflhumes. This ufeful fpecies of grain, here called Quinoa, refembles a lentil in fhape, but much lefs, and very white. When boiled it opens, and out of it comes a fpiral fibre, which appears like a fmall worm, but whiter than the hufk of the grain. It is an annual plant, being fowed and reaped every year. The Item is about three or four feet in height, and has a large pointed leaf, fomething like that of the malloro ; the flower is of a deep red, and five or fix inches in length, and in it are contained the grains or feed. The! quinoa is eaten boiled hke rice, and has a very ipleafant tafte; and the water in which it has been boiled, is often ufed as an apozem. The quinoa is ufed in external applications, in order to which it is ground and boiled to a proper con- fiftence ; and applied to the part afiedted, from which it foon extrafts all corrupt hu- mours occafioned by a contufion. Befides domeftic animals, here are great numbers of rabbits caught on the deferts. The partridges are not very plenty, and rather refemble a quail than thofe of Europe. Turtle-doves abound here, greatly owing to the indolence of the inhabitants in not endeavouring to take them. But one of the principal foods ufed by the inhabitants is cheefe, of which it is com- puted that the quantity annually confumed amounts to ,between feventy and eighty thoufand dollars of that country money. It is ufed in various manners, and is the chief ingredient in many dilhes. The neighbourhood of Quito alfo affords excellent butter, and of which there is a great confumption, but falls far fhort of that of cheefe. The fondnefs of thefe people for fweetmeats exceeds every thing I have ever mentioned of other countries ; and this necefl'arily occafions a great confumption of fugar and honey. One method of indulging this appetite is, to fqueeze the juice out of the fugar canes, let it fettle, and curdle it, out of which they make fmall cakes, which they call rafpaduras. This is fo highly valued by the lower clafs, that with a flice of it, and I o another ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 461 another of bread and cheefe, they make as hearty a meal as the rich with all their variety of difhes. Thus it appears, that if there be feme difference between the foods ufed here and thofe of Spain, the difference in their preparing them is flill greater. CHAP. VIII. — Of the Commerce of the Province of Quito. FROM the two preceding chapters, a fuflicient judgment may be formed of the produfts and manufaflures in the province of Quito, which are the fources of its com- merce. The perfons who are the chief conductors of this commerce, are the Euro- peans or Chapitones ; fome fettled here, and others coming occafionally. The latter purchafe the country goods, and fell thofe of Europe. The manufaftures of this pro- vince, as we have already noticed, are only cottons, fome white called Tucuyos, and others ftriped bays and cloths, which meet with a good market at Lima for fupplying all the inward provinces of Peru. The returns are made partly in filver, partly in gold and filver thread fringes made in that city ; wine, brandy, oil, copper, tin, lead, and quickfilver. The mafters of the manufactures either fell their goods to the traders, or employ them as their factors. On the arrival of the galleons at Carthagena, the traders refort thither either by the way of Popayan or that of Santa Fe, to purchafe European goods, which, at their return, they confign to their correfpondents all over the province. The products of the earth are chiefly confumed within the province, except the wheat produced in the jurifdiCtion of Riobamba and Chimbo,' part of which are fen c to Guayaquil. But this is a trade carried on only by Meflizos and poor people. It would indeed admit of great improvements, were not the freights fo excellively high, that the trouble and expence of carrying them from Guayaquil to other countries, where there is a fcarcity of them, renders it impofiible to get a living profit. Goods, maiiufaCtured by the public, or wove by private Indians, are, together with fome kinds of provifions, fent to the jurifdidtion of Barbacoas ; and this is the com- merce in which the Chapitones make the firft elBiy of their abilities for trade. Thefe provifions are exchanged for gold, found in that country, and which is afterwards fent to Lima, where it bears a greater price. Their fluffs alfo find a vent in the govern- ments of Popayan and Santa Fe ; and this commerce is perpetually carried on ; but the only return in the tiempo muerto, or abfence of the galleons, is gold, which, like that from Barbacoas, is fent to Lima. The coafl of New Spain fupplies this province uith indigo, of which there is a very large confumption at the manufactories, blue being univerfally the colour which this people affeCl in their apparel. They alfo import, by way of Guayaquil, iron and fleel both from Europe and the coafl of Guatemala ; and though it fetches fo high a price, that a quintal of iron fells for above a hundretl dollars, and the fame quantity of fleel for a hundred and fiftyj there is a continual demand in order to fupply the peafants with the neceiTary inftruments of aj^riculture. The inland, or reciprocal commerce, confifts in the confumption of the products of one jurifdiCtion in another ; and is a conflant incentive to induflry among the inhabi- tants of the villages, and the lower clafs. Thofe of the province of Chimbo purchafe home-made tucuyos and bags in thofe of Riobamba and Quito, in order to vend them at Guayaquil, bringing thence, in return, fait, fifh, and cotton ; the latter of which, being wove in the looms of Quito, is again fent to Guayaquil in fluffs. The jurifdic- tions 462 ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. tions of Riobamba, Alaufi and Cuenca, by means of the warehoufes at Yaguache and Noranjal, carry on a confiderable trade with Guayaquil. This trade in the manufactures of that country, which confifl only of three forts, cloth, bags, and linen, is attended with confiderable profit to the traders, and advan- tage to the country, as all the poor people, who are remarkably numerous, and perfons of fubftance, except thofe of the capital, wear the goods manufaftured in the country ; thofe of Europe being fo prodigioufly dear, that only Spaniards of large fortune, and perfons of the higheft diftinftion, can afford to purchafe them. The qiiantity of cloth and ftuffs wove in this country, and all by Indians, either in the public manufadures or their own houfes, appears from hence to be prodigioufly great : and to this, in a great meafure, is owing the happy ftate of this province ; the mafters and traders foon raifmg fortunes, and the fervants and dependents contented with the fruits of their induftry. BOOK VI. DESCRIPTION OF THE PROVINCli OF QUITO. CHAP. I. — Extent of the Province of Quito, and the Jurifdidion of its Audience. TN the five preceding books, we have endeavoured, as far as the nature of the fubject ■^ would permit, to follow the order which the feries of our voyage required ; and we flatter ourfelves it will appear, that, though our principal attention was directed to the aftronomical obfervations, we have not omitted any interefling particular, relating to the towns and provinces through which we palled. We were always perfuaded, that if the former tended to the improvement of fcience, and was agreeable to thofe who profefs it ; the latter might prove ufeful to hiftorians, and be acceptable to thofe who apply themfelves to the lludy of the conflitution, ftate, cuftoms, and genius of nations. We clofed the fifth book with an account of the city of Quito ; this we fhall employ in treat- ing of the province, which is equally an objedl of curiofity ; and we are enabled to gratify the reader in the moft fatisfaftory manner, having, in the courfe of our obfervations, not only furveyed its whole extent, but, by our long ftay, obtained the acquaintance of many perfons of undoubted judgment and veracity, on whom we could rely for parti- culars not to be known from ocular infpedion. So that we have fufficient reafons for warranting the truth of the contents of this hiftory. The large province of Quito, at the time when the Spaniards firft fettled in it, was annexed to the kingdom of Peru, and continued fo till the year 1718, when a new viceroyalty being eretted at Santa Fe de Bogota, the capital of the new kingdom of Granada, it was difmembered from Peru, and annexed to Granada. At the fame time the audience of Quito was fupprefled, together with that of Panama, in the kingdom of Terra Firma ; though the latter continued dependent on the viceroys of Lima. The intention in this frugal fcheme was, that the falaries of the great number of officers in both, which ceafed on this abolition, fliould be applied to the fupport of the new vice- royalty, in order to prevent any additional burden on the royal revenue ; a confequence otherwife ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 463 otherwiTe unavoidable. But experience has fhown the impropriety and infufficiency of this meafure ; and that the tribunals abolilhed were of indifpenfable neceflity in their refpeftive cities ; an infupportable detriment refulting to the inhabitants from the vafl diftance of the audiences afiigned them ; which were, Lima for the kingdom of Terra Firma, and thofe of the province of Quito, were to apply for juftice to the audience of Santa Fe. And as the amount of all the falaries fuppreffed, befides the prejudicing many families, was not fufficient to fupport the dignity of a viceroy, new ideas fuc- ceeded ; and rather than keep it up at the expence of the royal revenue, the viceroy- alty was fuppreffed, and things placed again on their ancient footing in the year 1722 : the officers were reftored to their former polls which they had fo worthily filled, and the audiences have continued the fame as before. But the motives for erecting a new viceroyalty at Santa Fe being confefledly of the greatefl importance, its reflitution was again brought on the carpet ; and the great difficulty of fupporting it, without detri- ment either to the public or the audiences, the fuppreffion of which had been fo detri- mental to the inhabitants, being overcome, the dignity of viceroyalty was again erefted in the year 1739, Don Sebaftian de Eflaba, lieutenant-general, being appointed the firft viceroy, and arrived in the beginning of the year 1740 to take poflefTion of his govern- ment ; which included the whole kingdom of Terra Firma and the province of Quito. This province is bounded on the north by that of Santa Fe de Bogota, and includes part of the government of Papayan ; on the fouth it is limited by the governments of Peru and Chachapoyas ; eaftward it extends over the whole government of Maynas, and the river of the Amazons, to the meridian of demarcation, or that which divides the dominions of Spain and Portugal. Its weftern boundary is the fea, from the coafl of Machala, in the gulf of Puna, to the coafl of the government of Atacames and the jurif- ditlion of Barbacoas, in the bay of Gorgona. Its greatefl breadth from north to fouth is about 200 leagues ; and its length, from eafl to weil, the whole extent from Cape de Santa Elena, in the fouth-fea, to the meridian above mentioned ; which, by the moft accurate computation, is 600 leagues. But a very great part of thefe vafl dominions are, it mufl be owned, either inhabited by nations of favage Indians, or have not hitherto been thoroughly peopled by the Spaniards, if indeed they have been fufficiently known. All the parts that can properly be faid to be peopled, and actually fubjefl to the Spanifh government, are thofe intercepted by the two Cordilleras of the Andes, which, in com- parifon to the extent of the country, may be termed a ftreet or lane, extending from the jurifdicftion of the town of St. Miguel de Ibarra to that of Loga; the country from hence to the government of Popayan, and alfo that comprehended between the weftern Cordillera and the fea. With this limitation the extent of the jurifdidtions from eafl to wefl will be fifteen leagues or fomething more, being the diftance intercepted between the two Cordilleras. But to this mufl be added the countries comprehended in the go- vernments of Jaen de Bracamoros, which borders on the jurifdidion of Loja, and the extremity of the whole province, and fituated on the eafl fide of the eaflern Cordillera ; and, to the northward, the government of Quixos, and that of Maynas to the eaftward of it j but feparated by large tratts of land inhabited by wild Indians ; and on the north fide of the province from that of Papayan ; though the latter is properly a diflindl pro- vince from that of Quito. Thus on the well fide of that interval between the two Cor- dilleras, lies the lately eredled government of Atacames, and the jurifdidion of Guaya- quil : on the eail fide, the three governments above mentioned ; and on the north, that of Papayan. This province, exclufive of thefe five governments, ccnfifls of nine jurifdidions, which in that country are called provinces, that of Quito being fubdivided into as many others 4^4 CLLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. Others as there are governments and jurifdiftions ; which -it is neceflary for the reader to obferve, in order to avoid any perplexity or miftake, when a jurifdiftion happens to be called a province ; though I fhall be careful to avoid it as much as poffible. The jurifdidions in the province of Quito, beginning with the moft northern, are the following : — I. The town of San Miguel de Ibarra. n. The village of Otabala. III. The city of Quito. IV. The afliento of Latacunga. V. The town of Riobamba. VI. The affiento of Chimbo, or Guaranda. VII. The city of Guayaquil. VIII. The city of Cuenca. IX. The city of Loja. Of thefe nine jurifdidions I fhall give a fuccin£t account in this and the following chapter, and then proceed to the governments. I. The town of San Miguel de Ibarra, is the capital of the jurifdidtion of that name, which alfo contains eight principal villages or pariflies, the names of which are, I. Mira. V. Salinas. II. Pimanpiro. VI. Tumbabiro. III. Carangue. VII. Quilca. IV. San Antonio de Carangue. VIII. Caguafqui. , This jurifdiftion formerly included tl^at of Otabalo, ; but, on account of its toO enor- mous extent, it was prudently divided into two. The town of San Miguel de Ibarra ftands on the extremity of a very large plain or meadow, at a fmall diftance from a chain of mountains to the eaftward of it, and betwixt two rivers, which keep this whole plain in a perpetual verdure. The foil is foft and moifl, which not only renders the houfes damp, but alfo caufes the foundations of their buildings often to fmk. It is moderately large, with flraight broad ftreets, and the greateft part of the houfes of flone, or unburnt bricks, and all tiled. The town is furrounded by fuburbs inhabited by the Indians, whofe cottages make the fame appearance as in all other mean places ; but the houfes are neat and uniform, though they are but low, having only a ground floor, except thofe in the fquare, which have one flory. The parifh church is a large and elegant flrufture, and of the fame mate- rials as the houfes. It is alio well ornamented. This town has convents of Francifcans, Dominicans, the Fathers of Mercy, a college of Jefuits, and a nunnery of the order of the Concepiion. Its inhabitants, of all ages, feds, and clafTes, are computed at ten or twelve thoufand fouls. Within the limits of this jurifdidion is the lake of Yagarchoca, famous for being the fepulchre of the inhabitants of Otabalo, on its being taken by Huayna-Capac, the twelfth Ynca, who, iultead of fhewing clemency to their magnanimity, being irritated at the noble refiftance they made, ordered them all to be beheaded, both thofe who had quietly furrendered, and thofe taken in arms, and their bodies thrown into the lake ; and from the water of the lake being tinged of a bloody hue, it acquired its prefent name, which fignifies a lake of blood. The ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. ~ 465 The air is very mild, lefs cold than that of Quito, and at the fame time the heat is not at all inconvenient. The temperature of the air is different in all the villages of this jurifdiftion, but in mofl warm, on account of their low fituation. Thefe parts are all over this country called Valles, as I have already obferved ; and the names of thofe in the jurifdidion of San Miguel de Ibarra are Chotar Carpuela, andfeveral others. Mod of the farms in them have plantations of fugar canes, and mills for extracting the juice, from whence they make great quantities of fugar, and very white : fome are planted with the fruits common in a hot climate ; and in others cotton only is cultivated, and to the greateft perfeftion. The fugar canes do not ripen here fo late as in Quito ; but they may be committed at any time to the mill, there being no neceflity tor cutting them at any precife time, re- taining all their goodnefs, even when fuft'ered to ftand two or three months after thev are ripe ; fo that they are cut every quarter, and the mills by that means kept at work . the whole year. The farms fituated in a lefs hot part are employed for cultivating maize, wheat, and barley, in the fame manner as in the jurifditlion of Otabalo, and which we fliall explain in its proper place. Here are alfo large numbers of goats, but not many flieep ; and though the manufaftures here are not fo numerous as in Otabalo, yet the Indians weave a confiderable quantity of cloth and cotton. In the neighbourhood of the village of Salinas are fait mine?, which, befides the home confumption, fupply the countries to the northward of it. This fait has fome mixture of nitre ; and though it may thence be concluded to be lefs wholefome, yet it is attended with no ill confequence to thofe who are accuftomed to it ; but not anfwering the inten- tion in falting, that from Guayaquil is ufed inftead of it. Within the diftrift of the village of Mira are great numbers of wild afles, which in- creafe very fall, and are not eafily caught. The owners of the grounds where they are bred fuft'er all perfons to take as many as they can, on paying a fmall acknowledgment in proportion to the number of days their fport has lafted. The manner of catching them is as follows : a number of perfons go on horfeback, and are attended by Indians on foot. When arrived at the proper places, they form a circle, in order to drive them into fome valley, where, at full fpeed, they throw the noofe, and halter them ; for thefe creatures, on finding themfelves inclofed, make very furious efforts to efcape, and if only one forces his way through, they all follow with an irrefiftible impetuofity. But when the hunters have noofed them, they throw them down, and fecure them M'ith fet- ters, and thus leave them till the hunting is over ; when, in order to bring them away with the greater facility, they pair them with tame beafts : but this is not eafily per- formed ; for thefe affes are fo remarkably fierce, that they often hurt the perfons who undertake to manage them. They have all the fwiftnefs of horfes ; and neither acclivi- ties nor precipices retard them in their career : when attacked, they defend themfelves with their heels and mouth, with fuch activity that, without flackening their pace, they often maim their purfuers : but the mod remarkable property in thefe creatures is, that after carrying the firft load, their celerity leaves them, their dangerous ferocity is loft, and they foon contraft the Ifupid look and dullnefs peculiar to the afinine fpecies. It is alfo obfervable, that thefe creatures will not permit a horfe to live among them ; and if one of then-i happens to flray into the places where they feed, they all fall upon him, and, without giving him the liberty of flying from them, they bite and kick him till they leave him dead on the fpot. They are very troublefome neighbours, making a molt horrid noife ; for whenever one or two of them begin to bray, they are anfwered in the VOL. xrv. 3 o fame 466 ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. fame vociferous manner by all within the reach of the found, which is greatly increafed and prolonged by the repercuffions of the valleys and breaches of the mountains. II. Thejurifdidlion joining on the fouth to that of St. Miguel de Ibarra, is called Ota- balo, in the jurifdiftion of which are the following eight principal villages or parilhes : I. Cayambe. V. Cotacache. II. Tabacundo. VI. San Pablo. III. Otabalo. VII. Tocache. IV. Atontaqui. VIIL Urququi. The parilh of Otabalo is well fituated, and fo large and populous that it is faid to con- tain eighteen or twenty thoufand fouls, and among them a confiderable number of Spa- niards. But the inhabitants of all the other villages are univerfally Indians. The lands of this jurifdiftion are laid out in plantations like thofe of the former, ex- cept that here are not fuch great numbers of fugar mills ; but this is compenfated by its great fuperiority in manufadtures, a confequence refulting from the multitude of Indians refiding in its villages, who feem to have an innate inclination to weaving j for befides the fluffs made at the common manufactories, fuch Indians as are not Mitayos, or who are independent, make, on their own account, a variety of goods, as cottons, carpets, pavilions for beds, quilts in damafk work, wholly of cotton, either white, blue, or va- riegated with different colours ; but all in great repute, both in the province of Quito and other parts, where they are fold to great advantage. The method of fowing wheat and barley in this jurifdiftion is very different fi-om that ufed in any of the former ; for, inftead of fcattering the feeds, as is commonly prac- tifed, they divide the ground, after it is plowed, into feveral parts by furrows, and along the fides of them they make little holes a foot diftant from one another, putting five or fix corns into each. However tedious this may be, it is abundantly made up to the farmer by the uncommon increafe, which is nfually above a hundred fold. This jurifdiftion has a great number of ftuds of horfes, and multitudes of black cat- tle, from whofe milk large quantities of cheefe are made. This country is happily fitu- ated for pafture, being every where watered with an infinite number of rivulets. It has alfo large flocks of fheep, though thefe feem to be negledcd, in comparifon of the others. The village of Cayambe {lands in the middle of a fpacious plain, at the end of which is the foot of the mountain Cayamburo, one of the largeft mountains of the Cordilleras in this part of the country, being equal in height to that of Chimborazo, and its fum- mits covered with fnov/ and ice. Its altitude is fo much greater than the reft between it and Quito, that it may be plainly feen from that city. The vicinity of this mountain renders the whole plain of Cayambe cold, which is increafed by the violence and con- tinuance of the winds. In the territories of this jurifdididn are two lakes, one called San Pablo, from a village of that name on its banks ; it is a league in length, and about half a league in breadth. This lake is every where furrounded with a fpecies of ruflies, called there Totoral, among which are vaft flocks of wild geefe and gallaretes. This lake receives its water from the mountain of Mojanda, and from it iitues one of the branches of the Rio Blanco. The other lake, which Iras nearly the fame dimenfions as the former, is called Cuichocha, and is fituated in a plain on the fide of a mountain of the fame name. Near the middle of this are two iflands, both which abound with wdld cuyes, a fpecies of rabbits and deer, which often fwim to main land ; but, when pur- fued by the hunters, difappoint them by gaining the lake, and fwimming back to their retreat. ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. . 467 retreat. Several fmall fifh are found in this lake, refembling the cray-fifh, but without a fhell. They are called, by the inhabitants of the adjacent country, prennadillas, and are fent in the pickle to Quito, where they are the more efteemed, as being the only frefh-water filh that can be bought in that city. Nor are thefe caught in any great quan- tities, though they are alfo found in the lake of San Pablo. III. The jurifdidion of Quito confifts of the following twenty-five parilhes, befides thofe in the city : I. St. Juan Evangelifla. XIV. El Quinche. 11. Santa Maria Magdalena. XV. Guayllabamba. III. Chilogalle. XVI. Machacha. IV. Cono-coto. XVII. Aloafio. V. Zambiza. XVIII. Aloa. VI. Pintac. XIX. Yumbicho. VII. Sangolqui. XX. Alangafi. VIII. Amaguana. XXI. Pomafque. IX. Guapulo. XXII. San Antonio deLulum-bamba. X. Cumbaya. XXIII. Perucho. XL Co-collao. XXIV. Cola-cali. XII. Puembo, and Pifo. ' XXV. Tumbaco. XIII. Yaruqui. This jurifdidion, though called Cinco Leguas, five leagues, extends, in fome parts, a great deal farther, and the lands are as it were covered with plantations, fome fituated in the plains, fome in the capacious breaches, and others on the fummit of the moun- tains ; and all producing according to the quality, fituation, and expofure of the ground. Thofe on the temperate plains yield plentiful harvelts of maize ; thofe at the bottoms of deep breaches, being in a hot temperature, are planted with fugar canes, from whence they extract great quantities of fugar and rum. From the fruits peculiar to fuch a temperature are made a variety of fweetmeats, here called Rayados ; and of which there is a great confumption among the inhabitants. The fugar cane ripens very flowly in this jurifdiftion ; for though the plantations enjoy a hot air, yet it is not of that degree of heat requifite to its fpeedy maturity ; fo that it is three years after they are planted, before they are fit to be cut. Nor are they ever cut but once, the fecond crop only producing the foca or germ, which ferves for re-planting. The guarapo, which we have had occafion to mention, is nothing more than the juice of the cane, as it flows from the mill, and afterwards fuffered to ferment. It is very pleafant, its tafte being a fweetifh acidity, and at the fame time very wholefome ; but inebriating if drunk to excefs. This liquor is a favourite regale among the vulgar. The plantations near the fummits of the mountains, from their having a variety of temperatures, produce wheat, barley, pot-herbs of all kinds, and potatoes. Above thefe plantations are fed numerous flocks of flieep, producing that wool, which, from the feveral operations it undergoes, affords employment for fuch multi- tudes of people. Some farmers make it their fole bufmefs to breed cows, principally for the advantages they derive from their milk in making cheefe and butter. In other farm-houfes you fee various occupations carried on at the fame time, namely, the breeding of cattle, agriculture, and manufactures, particularly of cloth, bays, and ferges. 302 From 468 ulloa's voyage to south America. From what has been faid, it is evident that neither this, nor the preceding jurilliidior;- has any general temperature, the degree of cold and heat depending on the fituation ; and that to this diilerence is owing the delightful, and even profitable variety of all kinds of fruits and grains, each finding here a temperature agreeable to its nature. Accordingly, in travelling only half a day, you pais from a climate where the heat fufliciently indicates that you are in the torrid zone, to another where you feel all the horrors of winter. And what is ftill more fingular, and may be eiteemed an advan- tage, no change occurs during the whole year ; the temperate parts never feeling the vicillitudes of cold and heat. This, however, muft be allowed not to hold precifely with regard to the mountainous parts, the coldnefs of which is encreafed by the violence of the winds, or a change of weather, called tiempo de paramos, when the clouds involve the greateft part of thefe mountains, and precipitate themfelves in a fleet ; at which time the cold becomes intolerable : and on the other hand, when thofe frigorific clouds are difperfed, and the wind allayed, fo that the rays of the fun reach the earth, they feel the comfortable heat of Ws cheering beams. Mofl: of thefe villages are built with very little regularity. The principal part of them is the church and parfonage, which they call the convent, from the priefts being all formerly religious. Thefe flirudtures have fome appearance of decency : but the other parts of the village confift of a number of-huts with mud walls, fcattered all over the country, where every one has his fpot of ground, >vhich he tills for his fubfiftence. A great part, and in fome villages the whole of the inhabitants are Indians, who live there when out of place ; though in fome parts the inhabitants are Meftizos, and here and there a Spanifli family ; but thefe are extremely poor. IV. The firft jurifdiftion to the fouthward of that of Quito, is the afTiento of Lata- cunga. The word AfTiento implies a place lefs than a town, but larger than a village. This place Hands in a wide plain, having on the eaft fide the eaftern Cordillera of the Andes, from whence projeds a very high mountain, and at a fmall diflance from its foot is fituated Latacunga, in o^ 55' 14" 30'", fouth latitude. On the wefl fide of it is a river, which, though fometimes fordable, on an increafe of the waters muft be palTed over by the bridge. This alFiento is large and regular ; the ftreets broad and ftraight ; the houfes of ftonc, arched, and well contrived : but on account of the dan- gerous confequences fo often refulting from earthquakes, without any ftory. This precaution the inhabitants were taught by a dreadful deftruftion of all the buildings, on the 20th of June 1698. This terrible concuflion was general all over the province of Quito ; and its effects, as we fliall fliow in the fequel, in many other places, equally melancholy. Out of fix hundred ftone houfes, the number of which this afTiento then tonfifted, only a part of one, and the church of the Jefuits, were left ftanding ; and even thefe were fo greatly damaged, that there was a neceflity for pulling them down. But the greateil misfortune was, that moft of the inhabitants were buried under their ruins, the earthquake beginning at one in the morning, a time of general filence and fecurity, and continuing its concuilions, at fhort intervals, the greateil part of the day. The ftone of which the houfes and churches are built, is a kind of pumice, or fpongy ftone, ejefted from volcanoes, inexhauftible quarries of it being found in the neighbourhood. It is fo light that it will fwim in water, and from its great porofity the lime cements the different pieces very ftrongly together ; whence, and from their lownefs, the houfes arc now enabled to fupport themfelves during a concuffion, much better than before the earthquake, when few were without a ftory ; and if they fhould be unfortunately thrown down, the crufti in all probability would be much lefs fatal. 8 The ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 469 The jurifdiction II. III. contains thefe principal \ Zichios Mayor. Zichios Menor. Yungas, or Colorados. ,'illages : X. XI. XII. San Miguel de Molleambato, Saquifili. Pugili. IV. Yfilimbi. XIII. Tanicuchi. V. Chifa-Halo, or Toacafo. XIV. Cuzubamba. VI. Pillaro. XV. Tifaleo. VII. VIII. San Phelipe. Mula-Halo. XVI. XVII. Angamarca. Pila-Halo. IX. Alaquez. The air of this affiento is the colder, from the place being only fix leagues from the mountain of Cotopaxi, which, as it is not lefs in height and extent than thofe of Chim- borazo and Cayamburo, fo it is, like them, covered with ice and fnow. The com- buftible fubftances within the bowels of this mountain, firft declared themfelves in the year 1533, when Sebaflian and Belalcazar, who undertook the conquefl of this province, had entered it, and proved very favourable to the enterprife. For the Indians, poffeffed with the truth of a prediftion of their priefts, that, on the burlling of this volcano, they would be deprived of their country, and reduced under the government of an unknown prince, were fo flruck with the concurrence of the burfting of this volcano, and the invafion of a foreign army, that the fpirit, which univerfiilly began to fhow itfelf in the preparatives every where made for a vigorous refiftance, entirely left them, and the whole province eafily conquered, all its caciques fubmitting to the King of Spain. The large plain in which this affiento Hands is full of rocks, ejected at that fuppofed ominous eruption, and fome of them to the diftance of five leagues from its roots. In the year 1743, while we were on thecoafl: of Chili, a fecond eruption happened, the particulars of which we fhall relate in another place. The temperature of the air is very different in the feveral villages of this jurifdidtion ; being hot in thofe lying in the valleys ; temperate in thofe fituated on the plains ; whilft the air in thofe bordering on the mountains, like that of the affiento, is cold, and fometimes to an exceffive degree. The villages are in general larger, and more popu- lous than thofe of the other jurifdiftions in the fame province. Their inhabitants are Indians, Meftizos, and a few Spaniards. Befides the parilh church, which is ferved by two priefts, one for the Spaniards, and the other for the Indians, this affiento has convents of Francifcans, Auguftines, Domi- nicans, the Fathers of Mercy, and a college of Jefuits. The churches of thefe reli- gious are well built, decently ornamented, and kept very neat. The inhabitants, by the neareft computation, amount to between ten and twelve thoufand, chiefly Spaniards and Meftizos. Among the former are feveral famihes of eminent rank and eafy cir- cumftances, and of fuch virtues and accomplifliments as add a luftre to their happy fituation. The Indians, as at Quito, live in a feparate quarter adjoining to the country. In this affiento all kinds of trades and mechanic arts are carried on ; and, as in all the other parts of this jurifdiftion, it has a confiderable number of manufaftories of cloth, bays, and tucuyos. Great quantities of pork are falted here for exportation to Quito, Guayaquil, and Riobamba, being highly efteemed for the peculiar flavour given to it in the pickling, and which it ever after retains. All 47® ulloa's voyage to south America. All the neighbouring country is fowed with clover, and interfperfed with plantatioas of willows, whofe .perpetual verdure gives a cheerful afpeft to the country, and heightens the pleafantnefs of the afliento. The Indians of Pugili and Saquifili kre noted for making earthen ware, as jars, pans, pitchers, &c. which are greatly valued all over the province of Quito. The clay of which they are made is of a lively red, very fine, and emits a kind of fragrancy, and the work- manfhip very neat and ingenious. V. The next jurifdiflion fouthwards is Riobamba, the capital of which is the town of the fame name. Its jurifdidion is divided into two departments ; the corregidor, who refides at Riobamba, appointing a deputy, who lives at the afliento of Hambato, fituated between the capital and Latacunga. In the firft department are the following principal villages : I. Calpi. X. Pungala. II. Lican. XI. Lito. III. Yaruquiz. XII. Guano. IV. San Luis. XIII. Hilapo. V. Cajabamba. XIV. Guanando. VI. San Andres. XV. Penipe. VII. Puni. XVI. Cubijis. VIII. Chambo. XVII. Cevadas. IX. Quimia. , XVIII. Palaftanga. The department of the afliento of Hamberto has, in its jurifdiction, fix principal villages : I. Ifambo. IV. Pelileo. II. Quifupincha. V. Patate. III. Quero. VI. Santa Rofa de Pilaguin. This afliento ftands in the latitude of i° 41' 40" fouth, and 22' wefl:, of the city of Quito. In 1533 it was an Indian town, of which Sebaftian de Belalcazar having made himfelf mafler, the following year Marflial Diego de Almagro laid the founda- tion of the prefent afliento. It ftands in a very large plain furrounded by mountains ; particularly on the north fide, which is bounded by Chimborazo, from the foot of which it is at no great diftance. On the fouth fide is a lake called Colta, about a league in length and three quarters of a league in breadth, where there are great num- bers of wild geefe and gallaretas ; and its banks covered with plantations. The principal fquare and ftreets are very regular, ftraight, and airy ; the houfes of a light ftone, but fomething heavier than the pumice made ufe of at Latacunga. Some, efpecially thofe in and near the fquare, have a ftory ; but the others are univerfallv without any, being built low, on account of the earthquakes which this place has often felt, particularly that already mentioned of 1698, when many of its houfes and public buildings were thrown down. The Indians who inhabited this place, and all thofe to the ibuthward in this jurifdiftion, before their converfion to Chriftianity, were known by the name of Puruayes ; and are to this day diftinguifhed from all the other Indians in the whole province. Befides the great church, here is another called St. Sebaftian, with convents of the fame orders as at Latacunga, and a nunnery of the Conception ; contributions are ftill 9 raifed ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. 47 1 raifed for the ufe of the hofpital, though it is in fo ruinous a condition as not to admit of patients. On the weft fide of the afTiento is a river cut into fmall channels or trenches, for watering the adjacent fields ; by which means they are rendered fo remarkably fertile, that they produce clover the whole year. The inhabitants, according to an accurate calculation, amount to between fixteen and twenty thoufand fouls. The manners and cuftoms here are nearly the fame with thofe at Quito ; the greateft part of the families of diftinftion in that city owing their origin to this place. For at the beginning of the conquefts, many of the eminent families which came from Spain fettled here at the conclufion of the war, and have been very careful not to diminifli either the luftre of their families, or their wealth, by promifcuous alliances, marrying only into one another. The magiftracy confifts ot regidores, who are always perfons of the firft diftindlion, and from among thofe are annually chofen the ordinary alcaldes ; vwth this Angularity, that the validity of the eleftion depends on its being unanimous, a fingle vote render- ing it void. Befides, the perfon thus elected is either confirmed or rejeded by the townfmen ; a privilege known in no other part of the whole province. The air is colder here than at Quito, owing in a great meafure to the neighbour- hood of the mountain of Chimborazo ; and, when the wind blows from that quarter, the weather is fo fharp, that the rich families leave the town, and retire to their eftates, fituated in a warmer air, though at no great diftance. This uncomfortable feafon generally lafts from December to June, the north and north-weft winds then princi- pally prevailing. It is, however, in a great meafure, free from thofe violent fhowers and tempefts fo common at Quito, that fometimes for many days fuccefTively it enjoys ferene and delightful weather ; and the fame may be faid of the greateft part of its jurifdiiftion. Here are many plantations, or farms, and moft of them confiderable ; and for the number and largenefs of its manufadtories, it furpaffes every other part of this pro- vince ; though the Indians feem born with an inclination for weaving, particularly thofe of the village of Guana, who are famed for their manufaftures of worfted ftockings, and it is indeed the only place in the whole province where they are made. This induftrious difpofition probably gave rife to the large flocks of fheep in this jurifdiction, whence thefe manufaftories are never in want of wool. The foil is very fertile, producing all kinds of grain and pulfe in abundance. And here is moft frequently feen what I have elfewhere obferved, that in one part the hufbandmen are fowing, in another reaping ; the landfcape alfo elegantly adorned with fuch an enchant- ing variety of colours as painting cannot exprefs. In this jurifdiction is a large plain lying fouth of the town of Tiocaxas, and famous for a battle between the Spaniards commanded by Belalcazar and the Puruayes Indians, before their courage had been depreffed by the ominous explofion of the mountain. Both armies fought with great obftinacy, though neither gained the vidory. The afliento of Hambato ftands in a wide plain at the bottom of a mountain. On the north fide of it runs a large river, over which a bridge has been built, it being, never fordable on account of its depth and extreme rapidity. It is finely fituated, and in extent and populoufnefs nearly equal to Latacunga, the number of its inhabitants amounting to eight or nine thoufand. The houfes are of unburnt bricks, well con- trived, and make a good appearance. With regard to their lownefs, it is owing to a difcreet precaution againft the melancholy fhocks of earthquakes. It has a parifti- church, two chapels of eafe, and a convent of Francifcans. The earthquake which made 472 ULLOA S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AJfERICA. made fuch terrible havock in the affiento of Latacunga, proved alfo fatal to this. The earth near it opened in feveral places, of which there ftill remains an aftonifliing monument on the fouth fide of the ailiento, being a chafm four or five feet broad, and about a league in length, north and fouth. And on the north fide of the river are feveral openings of the fame kind. The horror of the fhock was greatly increafed by terrible eruptions from Mount Carguairafo, from whence a muddy torrent, formed of afhes, cinders, and fnow melted by the flames from the aperture, precipitated down the fides of the mountain, overflowing the fields, fweeping away the cattle, and every other objeft, by its violence. A track of this impetuous current is ftill to be feen on the fouth fide of the affiento. The inhabitants in their manners and cuftoms refemble thofe of Quito ; but with re- gard to families of diftinftion, it is much inferior to Riobamba. Courage is an innate quality of the natives, but blended with fuch vices, that both their neighbours, and the inhabitants of the other parts of the province, will have no concerns with them, ex- cept thofe abfolutely neceffary ; and, in all dealings with them, take care to guard equally againft their deceit and violence. This jurifdiftion in feveral of its products and manufaftures excels all the reft : one of which is bread, particularly that made at the affiento, which is famous all over the province ; and accordingly it is fent to Quito, and other parts, without lofing any thing of its goodnefs by length of time. The Indian inhabitants of the village of Quero make all forts of cabinet work, for which there is a great demand all over the province, as, befides the goodnefs of the workmanfhip, this is the only place where goods of this kind are made. The jurifdiftion of Patate is equally famous for the plenty of fugar canes, and the goodnefs of the fugar made from them, being of the fineft fort. That of Santa Rofa de Pilaguin, which, with its fields, lies on the fide of Carguairafo, is famous for the particular goodnefs of its barley, as the diftrict border- ing on the affiento is for the exquifitenefs of its fruits ; and to this diftridt Quito owes moft of the European kinds fold in that city, the temperature of the air being peculiarly adapted to the perfection of thofe fruits. VI. On the weft fide of the jurifdiftion of Riobamba, between it and Guayaquil, lies that of Chimbo, whofe jurifdiftion confifts of an affiento and feven villages : the former, being the capital, is called Chimbo, and was the refidence of the corregidor, till it was thought proper, for the conveniency of commerce, to remove it to Guaranda. This affiento does not contain above eighty families ; fome of which are Spaniards, but all poor. The names of the villages are, I. San Lorenzo. V. Guaranda. II. Afaneoto. - VI. Guanujo. III. Chapacoto. VII. Tomabelas. IV. San Miguel. The moil confiderable of their villages is that Guaranda, though the inhabitants are generally Meftizos ; there are fome Indians, but very few Spaniards. The jurifdiftion of Chimbo, being the firft of the Serrania, or ridge of mountains, bordering on that of Guayaquil, carries on, by means of innumerable droves of mules, the whole trade of Quito and the other provinces, by the way of Guayaquil, carrying the bales of cloth, and ftufFs, together with the meal, corn, and other produfts of the country, from the former to the latter ; and returning with wine, brandy, fait, cotton, fifh, oil, and other goods wanted in the provinces of the mountains. This traffic ULLOA S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. ^ 47J traffic is of inconceivable benefit to the inhabitants ; but it can only be carried on during the fummer, the roads in the winter being abfolutely imprafticable to hearts of any kind. This inter miflion of trade they call ' Cerrarfe la Montana,' the fhutting up of the mountains. , The temperature of the air at Guaranda, and that of the greateft part of the jurif- diaion of Chimbo, from the proximity of Chimborazo, fo often mentioned for its frigorlfic effecls, is very cold. The country is large and fertile, like thofe already mentioned ; but the ha9iendas, or farms, are in general appropriated to the breeding of mules ; a fev/ only being fown with different fpecies of grain. VII. The jurifdiftion of Guayaquil is the laft ; but this has been already treated of at large. CHAP. II. — Sequel of the Account of the Jurifdi&ions in the Province of Quito. VIII. THE jurifdiction bordering on the fouthern parts of Riobamba is that of Cuenca, whofe capital is the city of the fame name, founded in the year 1557, by Gil Ramirez Davalos. Its jurifdi£lion is divided into two departments, of which the capital is one, and that of Alaufi the other ; the laft reaches to Riobamba, and is governed by a deputy of the corregidor* Befides the afliento, it contains only the four following villages : I. Chumche. II. Guafuntos. III. Cibanibe. IV. Ticfan. enca includes ten VI. Paccha. VII. Gualafeo. VIII. Paute. IX. Delec. X. MoUeturo, I. Azogues. II. Atuncanar. III. Giron. IV. Canary-baniba. V. Efpiritu. The city of Cuenca lies in i^ 53' 49" fouth latitude, and 29' 25" weft of the meri- dian of Quito. It ftands in a very fpacious plain, along which, at about half a league to the northward of the city, runs a little river called Machangara ; and ciofe to the fouth fide of the city runs another, known by the name of Matadero. Befides thefe, at the diftance of a quarter of a league, runs another called Yanuncay ; and at about the fame diftance is another termed Los Banos, from a village of that name, through, which it flows. All thefe rivers are at fonie feafons fordablej but at others can only be croflTed with fafety over the bridges. The plain in which this city ftands reaches about fix leagues from north to fouth ; and the four rivers, whofe courfes are nearly in the fame diredlion, form, at a fmall diftance, by the conflux of their ftreams, a very large river. To the fouth of the city is another plain of about two leagues in extent, and, with its great variety of regu- lar plantations of trees, and other rural improvements, makes a very delightful appear- ance all the year round. This city may be claflfed among thofe of the fourth order. Its ftreets are ftraight, and of a convenient breadth; the houfes of unburnt bricks, tiled, and many of them VOL. XIV. 3 p have 474 ulloa's voyage to south ajieric^. have one ftory, the owners, from a ridiculous afi'eclation of grandeur, preferring ele- gance to fecurity. The fuburbs, inhabited by the Indians, are, as ufual, mean and regular. Several ftreams of water, by great labour, are brought from the above rivers, and flow through the ftreets ; fo that the city is plentifully fupplied ; and for its admirable fituation, and the fertility of the foil, it might be rendered the paradife, not only of the province of Quito, but of all Peru ; few cities being capable to boafl: of fo many advantages as concentre here ; but, either from fupinenefs or ignorance, they are far from being duly improved. One circumfcance, which adds a fmgular beauty to its fituation, is, that the mountains are not fo high as to intercept the view of a beau- tiful country ; but at a proper diflance they rife again to their ftupendous height, as is feen in the mountain Azuay, which divides this jurifdiftion from that of Alaufi. Cuenca contains three pariflies ; tliat of the great church confifts of Spaniards and Mellizos ; the two others, which are called San Bias and San Sebaftian, are for the Indians. Here are convents of Francifcans, Dominicans, Auguftines, and the Fathers of Mercy ; a college of Jefuits, and two nunneries, one of the Conception, and the other of Santa Terefa. Here is alfo an hofpilal, but through ill management now almofl in ruins. The magiitracy is compofed of regidores and ordinary alcaldes, which, according to the general cufloni, are chofen annually, and at their head is the corregidor. Here is a cha^nber of finances, under the direction of an accomptant and treafurer. It was formerly kept in the city of Sevilla del Oro, ajurifdittion, and the capital of the de- partment of Macas ; but on the lofs of the city of Logrono, the ^■illage of Cuambaya and other places, it was removed to Loja, and fmce to Cuenca. The revenues paid into it confift of the tribute of the Indians of this department, together with that of Alaufi, the jurifdidion of Loja, and the government of Jean de Bracamoros ; the duties on provifions, and the cuftoms colleded at Naranjal. The inhabitants here, though of the fame clafTes with thofe of Quito, differ fomething in their genius and manners ; particularly in a nioft fliameful indolence, which feems fo natural to them, that they have a ftrange averfion to all kinds of work ; the vulgar are alfo rude, vindictive, and, in fhort, wicked in every fenfe. From this general reproach, the women mufl, however, be excepted, being remarkable for an uncom- mon fpirit of induftry ; as if they were determined to atone for the indolence of the other fex. They fpin and v.'eave bays, which, for their goodnefs, and efpecially the brilliancy of the colours, are famous in every part of Peru. They alfo weave fome tucuyos ; and make bargains with the merchants or traders. ' They buy and fell ; and, in fliort, manage entirely that little commerce by which their families are fupported ; whilft their hufbands, brothers, and fathers, give themfelves up to floth and idlenefs, with all its infamous concomitants. The whole number of inhabitants of this city is computed at twenty or thirty thoufand fouls ; and both thofe of the city and of the jurifdidtion are commonly known by the general name of Morlacos. The pleafures arifing from the fertility of the foil are increafed by the mildnefs of the climate, the liquor of the thermometer fluQ:uating the whole year between T013 and *oi5 ; fo that the cold is very little felt, and the heat very fupportable. With regard to rains, and tempefl:s of thunder and- lightning, they are as commbn here as at Quito. In calm weather, the fky is ferene, and the inhabitants healthy ; nor are malignant fevers and pleurifies, though common to the whole province, fo often known as at Quito. The country is finely interfperfed with farm-houfes and plantations of fugar canes ; fome parts are cultivated for corn, and others applied to the feeding of flieep and horned cattle, from the laft of which they make great quantities of cheefe, not 3 inferior ULLOA S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. 475 mferior to that of Europe ; and accordingly there is a very confiderable demand for it all over thefe parts. The village of Atun-canar, or Great-canar, is famous for its extenfive corn fields, and the rich harveft they afford. It is alfo remarkable for the riches concealed in its mountains, the bravery of its ancient inhabitants, and their unlhaken loyalty to Ynca Tupac- Yupanqui, to whom, when his army intended for this country was arrived near the frontiers, fenfible of their inability of making any effectual refiftance, they fub- mitted, and paid him all the honours which denoted a voluntary fubjedlion ; and thefe marks of loyalty fo prepoffeffed the emperor in their favour, that, to encourage them to cherifh fuch good difpofitions, he ordered feveral magnificent temples, fplendid palaces, and forts, all of flone, to be built here, in , the manner of thofe of Cufco, and the infide of the walls to be plated over with gold. And of thefe works fome monuments ftill remain in a fort and palace, and of which neither time nor accidents have obli- terated their aftoniihing magnificence ; a defcription will be given of both in another place. Thefe works had fuch happy effefts on the grateful inhabitants, that they fell at laft viGims to their loyalty ; for, having fided with the Ynca Huefcar, their lawful fovereign, againft his brother Ata Huallpa, and the former lofing a decifive battle, the conqueror inhumanly abufed his viftory, by deftroying thofe unhappy perfons who had done no more than their duty, no lefs than 60,000 of them being maffacred in cold blood. Thefe Indians were united with the Guafantos, and thofe of Pamallafta, in which diftrifl: are ftill to be feen the ruins of another fort, built by the Yncas. The intimacy between the inhabitants of thefe countries was fo remarkable, that they were all called Canarejos, that under one name they might form one body. The affiento of Alaufi, the chief place of the fecond department, is not very popu- lous, though among its inhabitants are fome Spanilh families of the firft rank. The other inhabitants are Meftizos and Indians, but both claffes in mean circumftances. The parochial church is the only ecclefiaftical ftrudure ; nor has this the ornaments which decency requires. The village of Ticfan, which flood in this department, was totally deftroyed by an earthquake, and the inhabitants removed to a fafer fituation. The marks of thefe dreadful convulfions of nature are ftill vifible in feveral chafms among the mountains, many being two or three feet broad, a convincing proof of the violent concuffions in the bowels of the earth at the time of that cataftrophe. The temperature of the air is here fomething colder than at Cuenca 5 but not in a degree fufficient to leffen the exuberant fertility of the foil. Among the great variety of mines in the jurifdIfVion of Cuenca, and which I fhall confider more at large in the fequel, thofe of gold and filver, according to the com- mon opinion, are not the leaft numerous. R.eport has indeed magnified them to fuch a degree, that, to prove the aftoniihing quantity of thofe metals, the inhabitants relate the follow ing ftory, the truth of which I do not pretend to warrant. It exhibits indeed an inftance fo contrary to the common order of things, as to be fcarce reconcileable to reafon. 'I Ihall, however, venture to relate it, becaufe, if the reader fliould think it incredible, it will at leaft ferve to convey an idea of the riches fuppofed to be concealed in the bowels of the mountains. Between the valleys of Chugui-pata, which extend from the village and jurifdidion of Los Azogues fouthward, and that of Poute running eaftvi^ard along the banks of the fame name, are feveral eminences which divide the two plains, and among thefe, one higher than the reft, called Supay-urco, a name faid to have been given it on the 3 p 2 following. 476 OLLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. following account. An inhabitant of the province of Eflramadura in Spain, from the extremity of his diftrefs, abandoned himfelf to defpair ; and, in the phrenzy of his wild imagination, fometimes implored the afliflance of Satan, and fometimes curfed the moment that gave birth to his wretched being, and was for laying violent hands upon himfelf. The devil, taking advantage of his condition, appeared to him, but in a drefs which fufficiently concealed his nature, and courteoufly afked the caufe of his exceffive melancholy ; and, being informed that it was owing to an unhappy change of circumftances, from a plentiful fortune to the mofl: extreme poverty, the devil, with a cheerful air, told him, that he would Ihow him a fpot from whence he might have what quantity of gold he pleafed, the mine being abfolutely inexhauitible. The Spa- niard embraced the offer with the greatefl: tranfport of joy ; and concluding that it would at leaft prove a journey of fome days, purchafed, with the penurious remains of his fubftance, a few loaves, which he packed up in his wallet ; and, his mind being fomething eafier from thefe flattering promifes, laid himfelf down to rell till the time appointed, when he was to call upon his guide. But when he awaked, he found him- felf in a country abfolutely unknown, the plain of Chiquipata lying before him, and himfelf reclined on the eminence of Supay-urco. His aflonifhment, at viewing fuch multitudes of ftraftge objefts, can be much better conceived than exprefled. For fome time indeed he doubted whether they were real or illufive, till tired with uncer- tainties, and, determined to know in what country he was, he direfted his way to a houfe of fome figure, which he faw at a diftance. This happened fortunately to belong to a Spaniard, who was a native of ihe fame province of Eilramadura ; and being in- formed by his fervants that a ftranger of the fame country was at the gate, the mailer, pleafmg himfelf with the hopes of hearing fome news from his native land, ordered him to be brought in, received him with great marks of friendfhip, and, being at break- faft, made him fit down with him, and began to enter on the pleafmg inquiry after his friends and relations ; but his gueft taking out one of his loaves, which the gentleman knew was baked in Spain, and finding it quite new, was fo loft in aftonifliment, that he forgot both his breakfaft and relations, infifting (though afraid to h^ar) that his apparent countryman fhould inform him how it was poflible to make fo long a voyage in fo (hort a time. The other readily fatisfying his defire, they both agreed that this muft have been an atlion of that enemy to mankind, who had brought the poor Spa- niard thither to enrich himfelf from the treafures concealed in the bowels of the hill on which he had laid him ; and, ever fince, it has been called Supay-urco, or the Devil's Hill. This ftory is well known throughout all the jurifdiclion of Cuenca, even the children are acquainted with it ; and father Manuel Rodriguez, in his " Hilloria del Maranon, y Amazonas, lib. ii. cap. 4." mentions it. From all which, it may be in- ferred, that it is, in reality, of as ancient a date as the inhabitants of Guenca pretend ; that it has defcended through a long feries of time without alteration ; and from this ftory, though deftitute of proof, the notion that this hill contains an inexhauilible treafure had its rife. IX. The laft ju/ifdidion of the province of Quito, on this fide, is that of Loja, the capital of which is called by the fame name, and was founded in the year 1546, by Captain Alonfo de Mercadillo. It refembles, in extent, form, and buildings, the city of Cuenca ; but the temperature of the air is confiderably hotter. In its diftriift are the following fourteen villages : I. Saraguro and Ona. IV. Yuluc. II. San Ju:in del Valle. V. Guachanana. III. Zaruma. VI. Gonzanama. VII. Cariumanga. ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 477 VII. Cariumanga. XI. San Lucas de Amboca. VIII. Zororonga. XII. El Sifne. IX. Dominguillo. XIII. Malacatos. X. Catacocha. XIV. San Pedro del Valle. LojA, befides two churches, has feveral convents, a nunnery, a college of Jefuits, and an hofpital. In the territory of this jurifdiftion is produced that fan:cus fpecific for intermitting fevers, known by the name of Cafcarilla de Loja, or Quinquina. Of this fpecific there are different kinds, one of which is more efficacious than the others. M. de Jullieu, whom I have already had occafion to mention more than once, being fent to make botanical obfervations, and take care of the health of the academicians, took the trouble of making a journey to Loja, purely to examine the tree which produces it ; and in a full defcription, which he drew up for the fatisfaftion of botanifts and other curious perfons, enters, with his known fkill and accuracy, into a very minute diftinftion of the feveral fpecies, and enumerates the fmalleft circumftances. At the fame time, he was pleafed to inform the corregidor of the differences, and to inftrudt the Indians employed in cutting it to diftinguifh each fpecies, that the beft fort only might be fent unmixed to Europe. Nor was this all ; he farther inftrufted them how to make an extradl of it, and prevailed on the inhabitants of that territory to ufe it, where its vir- tues had till that time been neglefted, though intermitting fevers are there as common as in any other parts. Before he undeceived them, the natives imagined that it was exported to Europe only as an ingredient in dyeing ; and, though they were not entirely ignorant of its virtues, they made no ufe of it, little imagining that a fimple of fo hot a nature could be good for them. But this ingenious phyfician convinced them of their miflake by many happy effefts ; fo that, now, it is generally ufed in all kinds of fevers : and perfons of undoubted veracity, who have fmce vifited Loja, have given me very pleafmg accounts of its falutary effects. The tree which produces the cafcarilla is not of the largefl fLze, its ufual height be- ing about two toifes and a half, and the body and branches of a proportionate thick- nefs. In this, however, there is fome difference, and in that confifts the goodnefs of the cafcarilla, the largeft branches not yielding the beft. There is alfo a difference both in the bloffom and feed. The Indians, in order to take off the cafcarilla or cortex, cut down the tree ; after which, they bark it, and dry the quinquina. There are here large and thick forefts of this tree ; but notwithflanding this, there is a very fenfible diminution of them, occafioned by the Indians not fowing the feed ; thofe which grow fpontaneoufly not being by any means equal to thofe which have been cut down. In the jurifdiftion of Cuenca have alfo been difcovered many woody parts, in which this valuable tree is found : and when I was in that country, a priefl at Cuenca procured a large quantity of cafcarilla, and fent it to Panama, the only place from whence it is- exported. This inftance, together with his affurances that it was of the fame kind with that of Loja, induced feveral of the inhabitants of Cuenca to attempt the difcovery, and were foon convinced that the jurifdiftion contained large forefls of this tree, which had been neglefted by them, whilft their neighbours reaped no fmall advantages from it. The jurifdidion of Loja has alfo a very great advantage from breeding the cochineal^ and which intelligent perfons reckon of equal goodnefs with that of Oaxaca in New Spain ; but the inhabitants are fo far from applying themfelves to the breeding of that infedt, fufScient to fupply the demands of a particular trade, that they breed no more 12 thaa 47 S ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. than what they imagine will be fufficient for the dyers In that and the neighbouring ju- rifdlftlon of Cuenca. To this elegant and lafting colour it is probably o\nng that the bays of Cuenca, and the carpets of Loja, are preferred to all others : though the beauty of the colours may in fome meafure proceed from the fuperior {kill of the work- men of Loja and Cuenca, over thofe of Quito and other parts of the province where the fame goods are manufaftured. The cochineal is alfo bred in the department of Hambato, though without any conftant gatherings of that infefl. It is not, however, to be doubted, but that a more careful attention would enfure them the fame fuccefs in great as in fmall quantities. Having mentioned this Infeft, fo highly valued in every part of the world for the incomparable beauty of its red, which it equally communicates to wool, filk, linen, and cotton, it may be expected that I fhould give fome farther account of it ; and as I fhould be forry to difappoint any rational curiofity of my readers, and at the fame time to infert any thing that is not ftridly true, I was unwilling to rely wholly on my own experience ; together with the accounts I procured at Loja and Hambato, ef- pecially as Oaxaca is the principal place where this infect is produced, I made it my bufmefs to confult perfons well acquainted with the fubject, and received the following account, in which they all unanimoufly agreed. The cochineal is bred on a plant known in Oaxaca, and all thofe parts where it abounds, by the name of Nofpal *, or Nopalleca, the Indian fig-tree, which, except in the difference of the foliage, refembles the tunos, fo common in the kingdom of Andalufia. The leaf of the tuna being broad, flat, and prickly ; and that of the nopal, oblong, with feveral eminences ; and inftead of fpines, has a fine fmooth mem- brane, of a fine permanent and lively green. The method of planting the nopal is by making rows of holes, about half a yard deep, and about two yards diftant from one another. In each of thefe holes is placed one or two leaves of the nopal, in a flat pofition, and then covered with earth. This leaf foon after flioots up into a fmgle fl:em, which during its growth divides into feveral branches, and thefe fucceflively produce frefli leaves, the ^largeft being neareft to the Item, which is full of knots, as are alfo the branches, and from thefe the leaves have their origin. The ufual height of this plant is about three yards, which it feldom ex- ceeds. The feafon when the nopal difplays all its beauty and vigour is, like that of other plants, from the fpring to the autumn, which at Oaxaca, and other parts of North America, is at the fame time as in Spain. Its bloffom is fmall, of a bright red, and in the fhape of a bud, from the centre of which proceeds the tuna, a name given to its fruit ; and as this increafes, the bloffom fades, till at length it falls. When the tuna, "or fig, is ripe, the outward (kin becomes white; but the pulp is fo fully im- pregnated with a deep red, that it tinges of a blood colour the urine of thofe who eat it ; a circumftance of no fmall uneafmefs to thofe who are unacquainted with this par- ticular. Few fruits, however, are either more wholefome or pleafant. The ground where the nopal is intended to be planted mull be carefully cleanfed from all kinds of weeds, as they drain the foil of thofe juices which the nopal re- quires. Alfo after the cochineal is taken from the plant, which is never done till the infeds are arrived at perfection, all the fuperfluous leaves are plucked off, that they may be fucceeded by others the following year. For it muff be obferved, that the * This plant is called by botanifts, Opuntia maxima, folio cblongD rotunda majorr, ffinuits obtujit moUibus (I innecentibut obftle, Jltrtjiriis rubris varicgato. Sloane's Catalogue. cochineal ULLOA S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. 4yg cochineal which are bred on young plants thrive much better, and are of a finer quality, than thofe produced on fuch as have flood feme years. The cochineal was formerly imagined to be a fruit or feed of fome particular plant ; an error which probably arofe from an ignorance of the manner in which it is propa- gated ; but, at prefent, every one is convinced of its being an infect, agreeably to its name, fignifying a vvood-loufe, which generally breeds in damp places, efpecially in gardens. Thefe infefts, by rolling themfelves up, form a little ball, fornething lefs than a pea, and in fome places are known by the name of Baquilas de San Anton, i. e. St. Anthony's little cows : and fuch is the figure of the cochineal, except that it has not the faculty of rolling itfelf up ; and its magnitude, y.'hen at its full growth, does not exceed that of a tick, common in dogs and other animals. Thefe infects breed and are nourifhed on the nopals, where their eggs are placed among the leaves ; the juice of the plant, which is their fole nourifliment, becomes converted into their fubltance ; when, in(i:ead of being thin and waterifh, and, to all outward appearance, of little or no ufe, it is rendered a mofl beautiful crimfon colour. The plant is in May or June in its moft vigorous flate, and at this favourable feafon the eggs are depofiied ; and in the fliort fpace of two months, from an animalcule, the infect grows up to the fize above-mentioned : but its infant ftate is expofed to a variety of dangers ; the violent blafls of the north wind fv.'eep away the eggs from the foliage of the plant : and, what is equally fatal to their tender conftitutions, fhowers, fogs, and frofts, often attack them and deflroy the leaves, leaving the careful cultivator this only refource, namely, that of making fires at certain diftances, and filling the air with fmoke, which frequently preferve them from the fatal effects of the inclemency of the weather. The breeding of cochineal is alfo greatly obftrudled by birds of different kinds, which are very fond of thefe infects ; and the fame danger is to be apprehended from the worms, &c. which are found among the plantations of nopals : fo that, unlefs con- ftant care be taken to fright the birds away from the plantation, and to clear the ground of thofe various kinds of vermin which multiply fo faft in it, the owner will be greinly difappointed in his expettations. When the infects are at their full growth, they are gathered and put into pots of earlhen ware ; but great attention is requifite to prevent them from getting out, as in that cafe great numbers of them would be loft : though there is no danger of it, where they are at liberty on the nopal leaves, thofe being their natural habitation, and where they enjoy a plenty of delicious food ; for though they often remove from one leaf to another, they never quit the plant ; nor is it uncommon to fee the leaves entirely covered with them, efpecially when they are arrived at maturity. When they have been confined fome time in thefe pots, they are killed and put into bags. The Indians have three different methods of killing thefe infects ; one by hot water, another by fire, and a third by the rays of the fun ; and to thefe are owing the feveral gradations of the colour, which in fome is dark, and in others bright ; but all require a certain degree of heat. Thofe, therefore, who ufe hot water are very careful to give it the requifite heat, and that the quantity of water be proportioned to the number of infects. The method of killing them by fire, is to put them on fliovels into an oven, moderately heated for that intention : the fine quality of the cochineal depending on its not being over-dried at the time of killing the infects : and it mufl be owned, that among the feveral ways made ufe of to deflroy this valuable creature, that of the rays of the fun feems to bid faireft for performing it in the moft perfeft manner. ' Befides 4S0 ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. Befides the precaution requifite in killing the cochineal, in order to preferve its qua- lity, it is equally neceflary to know when it is in a proper ftate for being removed from the leaves of the nopal ; but, as experience only can teach the cultivator this neceflary criterion, no fixed rule can be laid down. Accordingly, in thefe provinces where the cultivation of thefe infedls is chiefly carried on, thofe gathered by Indians of one village differ from thofe gathered in another ; and even thofe gathered by one perfon in the fame village are often different from thofe gathered by another ; every individual adhering to his own method. The cochineal infedt may in fome circumftances be compared to the filk worm, parti- cularly in the manner of depofiting its eggs. The infects deflined for this particular are taken at a proper time of their growth, and put into a box well clofed, and lined with a coarfe cloth, that none of them be loft. In this confinement they lay their eggs and die. The box is kept clofe fhut till the time of placing the eggs on the nopal, when, if any motion is perceived, it is a fufiicient indication that the animalcule has life, though the egg is fo minute as hardly to be perceived ; and this is the feed placed on the foliage of the nopal, and the quantity contained in the fhell of a hen's egg is fufficient for cover- ing a whole plant. It is remarkable that this infect does not, or at leaft in any vifible manner, injure the plant ; but extracts its nourilhment from the moft fucculent juice, which it fucks by means of its probofcis through the fine teguments of the leaves. The principal countries where the cochineal infeds are bred, are Oaxaca, Flafcala, Ceulula, Nueva Gallicia, and Chiapa in the kingdom of New Spain ; and Hambato, Loja, and Tucuman in Peru. And though the nopal thrives equally in all, yet it is only in Oaxaca that they are gathered in large quantities, and form a branch of com- merce, the cultivation of thefe little creatures being there the chief employment of the Indians ; whereas in others, where the inhabitants take but little trouble in their culti- vation, they breed wild, and thofe gathered in them are accordingly called Grana Sylveflria *. Not that either the infects or nopals are of different fpecies ; for with regard to the difadvantageous difference between the colour of the wild cochineal and that of Oaxaca, it does not proceed from a difference of fpecies, but for want of a proper care in its improvement ; and were the culture every ahke, this difference would no longer fubfift. But the Indians neglect it, either becaufe no commerce of that kind has been opened among them ; or from an averfion to the trouble and attention requifite to bring thofe infects to perfection ; or, laflly, from the apprehenfion that the fruits of all their time and care may be deftroyed by one of the above-mentioned accidents. The temperature bell adapted to the produ6tion of this infeft cannot be precifely determined, there being in Oaxaca, as well as in the province of Quito, parts of very different temperatures, fome hot, fome temperate, and others cold ; yet all breed the cochineal. It is, however, very probable, that the mofl proper climate is the temperate and dry ; becaufe in thefe the nopal thrives the beft. And agreeably to this obferva- tion it is remarked, that Hambato and Loja are the countries in the province of Quito where they moft abound ; though they are alfo feen in other parts, where both the heat and cold are greater. Here I cannot help obferving, that Andalufia in Spain appears to me extremely well fituated for breeding cochineal, both from the nature of the climate, and the plantation of fig trees, which there attain fo great perfedtion. Here alfo neither frofts, fogs, or fnows, are to be apprehended, particularly in fpring ; and the happy medium between cold and heat is, as I have before obferved, that which this creature is particularly fond of. * This wild cochineal is generally-known in England by the name of cochineal meftique. The ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 48 1 The inhabitants of Loja, who are known all over this province by the name of Lojanos, do not exceed ten thoufand fouls, though formerly, when the city was in its greateft profperity, they were much more numerous. Their characler is much better than that of the inhabitants of Cuenca ; and befides their affinity in cuftoms and tempers to the other villages, they cannot be branded with the charader of being flothful. In this jurifdiction, fuch numerous droves of horned cattle and mules are bred, that it fupplies the others of this province, and that of Piura in Valles. The carpets alfo manufatlured here are of fuch remarkable finenefs, that they find a ready fale wherever they are fent. The corregidor of Loja is alfo governor of Yaguarfongo, and principal alcalde of the mines of Zaruma ; and, as fuch, a chair of ftate is placed for him at all public folemnities of the church, where he is prefent ; a diftinguifhing honour allowed only to the prefidents or governors of thofe provinces. The poll of governor of Yaguar- fongo is at prefent a mere title without any jurifdiftion ; part of the villages which formed it being loft by the revolt of the Indians, and the others added to the govern- ment of Jaen ; fo that the corregidor of Loja enjoys only thofe honours intended to continue the remembrance of that government. The town of Zeruma, in the jurifdiftion of which are thofe mines of gold I (hall mention in another part, has prefented the corregidor of Loja with the title of'its alcalde major. It was one of the firft towns founded in this province, and at the fame time one of the moft opulent ; but is at prefent in a mean condition, owing chiefly to the decay of its mines, on which account moft of the Spanifh families have retired, fome to Cuenca, and others to Loja ; fo that at prefent its inhabitants are faid not to exceed fix thoufand. The declenfion of thefe mines, which is not fo much to be imputed to a fcarcity of metal, as to the negligence of thofe concerned in working them, has been difadvantageous to the whole department of Loja ; and confequently diminiftied the number of its inhabitants. Having thus defcribed thofe nine jurifdiftions which form the moft wealthy part of the province of Quito, I fhall, in the following chapters, treat of the governments. CHAP. III. — Account of the Governments of Popayan and Atacames, belonging to the Province of Quito. WE have already given a juft account of every thing worthy notice in the jurifdic- tions within the audience of Quito. To render the narrative complete, it is neceffary that we now proceed to the governments within the limits of that audience, as they jointly form the vaft country of the province of Quito. And though they generally give the name of province to every government, and even to the departments into which both are fubdivided, we ftiall not here follow this vulgar acceptation, it being in reality founded only on the difference of the notions of Indians who formerly inhabited this country, every one being governed by its curaca, or defpotic fovereign. Thefe nations the Yncas fubdued, and obliged them to receive the laws of their empire ; but the curacas were confirmed in all thofe hereditary rights of fovereignty comipatible with the fupreme prerogative. Were we indeed to ufe the name of province in this fenfe, every village muft be called fo ; for it may be eafily Ihown, that in the time of heathenifm, every village had its particular curaca : and fometimes, as in Valles, in this jurifdic- tion of Popayan, in Maynas, and the Maragnon, there was not only a curaca in each VOL. XIV. 3 Q village, i 48; clloa's voyage to south AMEEICA. village, \^ith all the appendages of government, but the inhabirants fpoke a dinerent language, had different laws and cuftoms, and lived totally indep>endent of each other. But thefe villages and ancient pro\-inces being now comprehended under the jurifdidion of one fingle tribunal ; and thofe which before were imder a multitude of curacas acknowledging one fovereign, and compofing one pro^Tnce, where jufHce is adrninillered to them in tlie name of the prince ; and the governments being in juridical afiairs de- pendent on the audience of Quito, they can only be confidered as parts of its province. It is therefore requi/ite, in order to form a proper idea of this countrv, that I fhould treat of them in the fame circumftanual manner I have alreadv obferved in defcribine the jurifdictions. I. The firfl: government in the pro\-ince of Quito, and which terminates it on the north, is that of Popayan. It is not indeed wholly dependent on it, being divided into two jurifdidions, of which that on the north and eall belong to the audience of Santa Fe, or the new kingdom of Granada, Quito having onlv thofe parts hdng tou^rds the Ibuth and wefi: ; fo that, without omitting any thing remarkable in the whole govern- ment, I fhall be a little more explicit in my account of the department belonging to Quito. The conqueft of the whole coimtry now containing the govemmeit of Popayan, or at lead the greater part of it, was performed by that famous commander Sebaftian de Belalcazir. who being governor of the pro\Tnce of Quito, where he had fettled a per- fect tranquillity, and nniihed the buildipg of that city, being informed that on the north fide of his government lay a country of gfeat extent, and richer than the parts he already poflefTedj prompted by that fpirit which had animated the Spaniards to extend their reputation by a feries of amazing conquelf s in this part of the globe, he fet out on his enterprife in 1536, at the head of three hundred Spaniards; and after feveral fliarp encounters with the Indians of Pafto, who firfl oppofed his march, he proceeded in his conquefls, and reduced the t^vo principal curacas of that country', Calambas and Popay- an (after whom both the country and chief town were called), two brothers equally refpeded for their power and milirar\- talents. This defeat opened him a paffage to fu- ture conquefls ; and the neighbouring nations, terrified at the fuccefs of thofe illuflrious warriors, fubmltted to the King of Spain. Belalcazar, after thefe exploits, in the pro- fecution of his conquefls, had feveral other encounters with Indians, fired vdth the dif- dain of fubmitting to a foreign yoke. His conquefls were, however, at lail fo r^d, that at the clofe of the fame year he pitched his camp in the centre of that country, where the mildnefs of the climate, the fertilit)- of the foil, and falubrit}- of the air, confpired to induce him to render it the feat of the Spanilh government. Accordingly, in 1537, he laid the foundation of the firfl cit)', which fHU retains the name of Popayan ; and whilfl the place was building, he, to keep his people in exercife, and prevent the Indians he had conquered from forming therafelves into a new army, or carr\'ing on any clandef- tine correfpondence with thofe whom his arms had not reached, fent out detachmaits (Afferent ways, with orders to naarch into the ndghbouring countries, that the)" might prevent the rifing of fome, and reduce others to obedience. Belalcazar had fcarce finifhed his new town, when the officers of thefe corps, on their return made fach a repwrt of the riches and fertility of the countn,-, that he determined to view it in perfon, increafe the number of towns, and by that means fecure the poffef- fion of it. Accordingly he continued his march to Cali, where he built a town, which fHll retains the fame name, though in a different country ; for after it was finifhed in the country of the Gorrones Indians, captain Miguel Mimoz foon after removed it, on account of the unhealthinefs of the air. Belalcazar founded alfo another town, called Santa ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. 4^3 Santa Fe de Antioquia ; and, charmed with the fertility and richnefs of the country, he proceeded to people it every where. Nor was this all ; for Belalcazar, in order to enhance the glory and importance of this country, was very defirous of making a road from Quito to the North Sea, as he had before done to the Pacific Ocean. Among the difcoveries made by his captains^ whilft he was employed in fuperintending the building of Popayan, one was, that at no great diftance from that place were two of the principal fources of the great river Mag- dalena ; whence he conceived they might eafdy find a paffage to the North Sea. This opinion the general had the pleafure of finding unanimoufly agreed to, which induced him to make every difpofition for the fecurity and welfare of his conquefts, being deter- mined to return by way of that river to Spain, in order to folicit the title of governor of the country which he had difcovered, conquered, and peopled. Accordingly the title was conferred on him, and in his government were comprehended all the territories then confidered as within his conquefts ; but in the year i 730 the country of Choco was feparated from it, and made a particular government, though the order was not carried into execution till the year 1735. This part, belonging to the province of the new kingdom of Granada, does not come within our defcription. The city of Popayan, one of the moft ancient in thefe parts, that title having been granted it on the fifth of July 1538, ftands in a large plain, having on the north fide an uninterrupted profpefl: of the country. Its latitude is 2° 28' north j lies about two de- grees eaft of the meridian of Quito, on the eaft fide of a mountain of a middling height called M, from the refemblance it bears to that letter ; and, being covered with a variety of trees, affords an entertaining profpeft ; the weft fide is alfo diverfified with fmall eminences. The city is moderately large, with broad, ftraight; level ftreets ; and, though not every where paved, are equally convenient, the foot-path near the houfes being paved in all parts ; and the middle of the ftreets, being compofed of a hard fmall gravel, is never dirty in rainy weather, nor dufty in the great droughts of this climate ; hence the middle of the ftreets are more convenient for walking than even the pavement itfelf. The houfes are built of unburnt bricks, as at Quito, and entirely of the fame con- ftruftion : all the houfes of note have a ftory ; but the others only a ground floor. An idea of the largenefs and convenience of the offices and apartments may be formed by their outward appearance, as well as the magnificence of the furniture, which is all brought from Europe ; the expence of which muft be enormoufly great, as, befide the long voyage, there is a neceffity for bringing it a prodigious diftance by land carnage, and fubjedl to unkno\^'n dangers in thefe countries. The church was erecled into a cathedral in the year 1547, and is the only parochial church in the city. Not that its extent is too fmall for maintaining others ; but, having originally been the only church, the prebends could never be brought to allow of its being fubdivided, and part of its revenues applied to the fupport of other parifhes. Here are alfo convents of Francifcans, Dominicans, and Auguftines, with a college of Jefuits ; all of them having churches. In the latter is alfo a grammar fchool. The plan of an univerfity, under the dire£lion of the fame fathers, is in fuch forwardnefs, that the charter is already granted. The nurhber of religious belonging to each of thefe convents is but fmall, fome of them amounting to no more than fix or eight. It is, however, very different with regard to one of the nunneries, that of the Incarnation, the profeffed nuns being between forty and fifty ; but the whole number, nuns, feculars, and fervants included, exceeds four hundred. The other nunnery is of the order of 3 Q 2 Santa 484 ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. Santa Terefa. All thefe convents and their churches are pretty large ; and if the latter do not dazzle the fight with the fplendor of their ornaments, they do not want any which decency requires. Here was formerly a convent of bare-footed Carmelites, built on a fpacious plain, near the top of the mountain of IM, from whence, on account of the fharpnefs of the winds, the fathers fome time after removed to the foot of the mountain. But they were alfo foon difgufled with their new fuuation ; the dry and falted fifh, falads, and fuch like, being the only particulars which this country affords, fuitable to the perpetual abftinence of their order ; and accordingly they again retired to their original fituation, chufing rather to fufter the inclemency of the weather, than be con- fined to difagreeable food. This was the cafe of another convent of the fame order founded at Latacunga, where there is alfo no frefli fifli of any fort to be had. It muft, however, be obferved, that the Terefian convents, who are under the fame vow of abftinence, are not difcouraged by thefe inconveniences ; nor is there a fingle inftance of any deficiency in the appointed number of nuns. From the mountain of M iffues a river, which by running through the city, befides other conveniences, carries away all its foil. Two bridges are erefted over it, one of ftone, and the other of wood. The name of this river is del Molino. Its waters have a particular medicinal virtue, which they are thought to derive from the many briars through which they flow. In this mountain is alfo a fpring of very charming water ; but, not being fufficient to fupply the whole city, it is conveyed to the nunneries, and the houfes of men of rank. A little above a league to the north of Popayan runs the river Cauca. It is very large and deep, its current rapid, and fubjeil to dangerous fwellings in the months of June, July, and Auguft ; the feafon when the horrors of the mountains of Cuanacas, where it has its fource, are at their height ; fo that the paff- age of it is extremely dangerous, as many travellers, raflily expofmg themfelves to the intenfenefs of its cold, amidft thick fnows and violent winds, have fatally ex- perienced. The inhabitants of Popayan and Quito differ very fenfibly in their cafts ; for, as at Quito, and the other towns and villages of its jurifdictions, the molt numerous clafs of people is that of the cafts which iprung from the intermarriages of Spaniards and In- dians, fo at Popayan, Carthagena, and other parts where Negroes abound, the lower clafs confifts of cafts refulting from the marriages of the Whites and Negroes ; but very few Indian cafts. This is owing to the great multitude of Negro flaves kept as labourers at the plantations in the country, the mines, and to do the fervile offices in the city : fo that the number of Indians here are very few, compared with the other parts of the province. This government has, however, many large villages of them ; and it is only in the capital, and other Spanifli towns, that they are fo greatly out-num- bered by the Negroes. The inhabitants of Popayan are computed at between twenty and twenty-five thou- fand ; and among thefe are many Spanifh families, particularly fixty, known to have been originally defcended from very noble famihes in Spain. It is worth obferving here, that, whilft other towns fee their inhabitants conftantly decreafing, Popayan may boaft of a daily increafe. This has indeed nothing myfterious in it ; the many gold mines worked all over its j,urifdid:ion, afford employment to the indigent, and, confe- quently, occafion a great refort of people to thefe parts. Popayan is the conftant refidence of the governor ; whofe office being purely civil, it is not requifite, as in many others, that he fhoidd be acquainted with military aftairs. Within the jurifdiftion of his government, all matters, civil, political, and military, are under his diredion. He is alfo the chief magiftrate of the city ; the others are the two ordinary ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. 485 ordinary alcaldes, chofen annually, and a proper number of regidores, the conftitution being the fame as in other cities. Here is a chamber of finances, into which are paid the feveral branches of the royal revenue ; as the tribute of the Indians, the duties on goods, the fifth of the metals, and the like. The ecclefiaftical chapter is compofed of the bifhop, whofe revenue is fettled at fix thoufand dollars annually ; the dean, who has five hundred ; the archdeacon, _ chanter, reftor, and treafurer, who have each four hundred. This fee is a fufFragan of the archbifhoprick. of Santa Fe de Bogota. Popayan, lying within the jurifdiction of the inquifition of Carthagena, has a com- miffary from thence. Here is alfo another of the Croifade ; but the authority of thefe two judges extends not beyond the diocefe, which is far lefs than that of the govern- ment, a confiderable part of it belonging to the archbifhoprick of Quito. The jurifdittion of the government of Popayan reaches fouthward to the river Mayo, and to Ipiales, where it borders on the jurifdiftion of the town of San Miguel de Ibarra j north-eaft it terminates with the province of Antioquia, the laft of its provinces, and contiguous to that of Santa Fe ; and, northward, borders on the government of Car- thagena. Its ancient weftern bounds were the South Sea, but it has fince been fo con- traded by the new government of Choco, that the territory of Barbacoas is the only part of it which reaches to the fea ; eaftvvard it fpreads itfelf to the fourccs of the river Coqueta, which are alfo thought to be thofe of the river Oronoco and Negro : its extent is not precifely determined : but a probable cobjedture may be made, that from eafl to weft it is about eighty leagues, and little lefs from north to fouth. This jurif- ditlion being fo large, and containing many towns and villages, is divided into feveral departments, over each of which the principal governor nominates a deputy for the adminiftration of juflice, and introduces them to the audience to which they belong, where his nomination is confirmed ; a circumftance necelTary to procure them all the weight and fecurity in the feveral departments which are conferred on them. Thofe which form the government of Popayan are, I. Santiago di Cali. - VII. Almaguer. II. Santa Fe de xlntioquia. VIII. Caloto. III. Las Quatro Ciudades. IX. San Juan de Pafto. IV. Timana. X. El Rapofo. V. Guadalajara de Buga. XI. Barbacoas. VI. S. Sebaftian de la Plata. In each of thefe departments, befides the chief town, are feveral others very large and well peopled ; and great numbers of feats and farm-houfes, where the num- ber of people employed gives them the appearance of villages rather than private dwellings. Of the above-mentioned departments, thofe towards the north and eaft of the city of Popayan, as Santa Fe de Antioquia, Las Ouatro Ciudades, Timana, and S. Sebaftian de la Plata, belong to the audience and province of Santa Fe ; the others lying nearer to Quito belong to its province ; and thofe of San Juan de Pafto, and Barbacoas, are within its diocefe. The departments of Cali and Buga, lying betwixt the governments of Popayan and Choco, thrive, as being the channel of the commerce which is carried on continually betwixt 486 ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. betwixt thefe two governments : whereas it is otherwife with that of Almaguer, from the fmallnefs of its jurifdiftion, and the little traffic there. That of Caloto, as its ex- tent is confiderable, fo is it rich, and abounds in the products of the earth, the foil being fertile, and the country every where interfperfed with farms. That of El Rapofo is on the fame happy footing as the two firft. That of Pafto is alfo large, but lefe wealthy. Barbacoas is very fmalh; and in fuch a general want of provifions, that, ex- cept a few roots and grains peculiar to hot and moid climates, it is fupplied with^every thing from other provinces. The temperature of this government is entirely the fame as that already fpoken of in the other parts of the province of Quito ; that is, it varies according to the fituation of places ; fome being more cold than hot, others the reverfe ; and fome, throughout the whole year, enjoy a continual fpring, as particularly Popayan the capital. The like may be faid of the foil, which exuberantly produces the grains and fruits proper to its fituation : and the farms breed great numbers of horned cattle and fheep, for the con- fumption of the towns and counti-y people : and in the territoiy of Pallo graziery is a very profitable article, large herds and tiocks being driven to Quito, w-here they always find a good market. The jurifdidion of Popayan is more fubjeft to tempefts of thun- der and lightning, and earthquakes, than even Quito ; though in the latter, as we have obferved, they are fo very frequent. No longer ago than 1735, at one in the after- noon on the fecond of February, the greateft part of the town was ruined by one. This remarkable frequency of tempefts and earthquakes, in the country of Popayan, may be conjectured to proceed from the great number of mines, in which it exceeds all the others within the province of Quito. But of all the parts in this jurifdiction Caloto is accounted to be the moft fubjecb to tempefts of thunder and lightning ; this has brought into vogue Caloto bells, which not a few perfons ufe, being firmly perfuaded that they have a fpecial virtue againft lightning. And, indeed, fo many ftories are told on this head, that one is at a lofs what to believe. Without giving credit to, or abfolutely rejecting all that is reported, leaving every one to the free decifion of his own judgment, I fhall only relate the moft: received opinion here. The town of Caloto, the territory of which contains a great number of Indians, of a nation called Paezes, was formei jy very large, but thofe In- dians fuddenly afl'aulting it, foon forced their way in, fet fire to the houfes, and maffa- cred the inhabitants : among the flain was the prieft of the parifti, who was particularly the objedl of their rage, as preaching the Gofpel, with which they were fenfible their favage manner of living did not agree, expofing the tolly and wickednefs of their idolatry, and laying before them the turpitude of their vices. Even the bell of the church could not efcape their rancour, as by its found it reminded them of their duty to come and receive di\ane inftruclion. After many fruitlefs endeavours to break it, they thought they could do nothing better than to bury it under ground, that, by the fight of it, they might never be put in mind of the precepts of the Gofpel, which tended to abridge them of their liberty. On the news of their revolt, the Spaniards in the neighbourhood of Caloto armed ; and, having taken a fmart revenge of the in- furgents in a battle, they rebuilt the town, and having taken up the bell, they placed it in the fteeple of the new church ; fince which, the inhabitants, to their great joy and aftoniftiment, obferved, that, when a tempeft appeared brooding in the air, the tolling of the bell difperfed it ; and if the weather did not every where grow clear and fair, at leaft the tempeft difcharged itfelf in fome other part. The news of this miracle fpreading every where, great folicitations were made for procuring pieces of it to make clappers for little bells, in order to enjoy the benefit of its virtue, which, in a country I where ULLOA's voyage to SOUrH AMERICA. 487 where tempefts are both fo dreadful and frequent, mufl: be of the highefl advantage. And to this Caloto owes its reputation for bells. In the valleys of Neyba, and others within the jurifdidion of Popayan, is a very re- markable infed, particularly famous for the power of the fmall quantity of venom in it. This infect, which is fhaped like a fpider, is much lefs than a bug. Its common name is coya, but others call it coyba ; its colour is of a fiery red, and, like fpiders, it is ge- nerally found in the corners of walls, and among the herbage. Its venom is of fuch a malignity, that, on fqueezing the infect, if any happen to fall on the fkin of either man or beaft, it immediately penetrates into the flefh, and caufes large tumours, which are foon fucceeded by death. The only remedy hitherto known is, on the firft appearance of a fvvelling, to linge the party all over the body with the flame of ftraw, or long grafs, growing in thofe plains. In order to this, the Indians of that country lay hold of the patient, fome by the feet, and others by the hands, and with great dexterity perform the operation, after which the perfon is reckoned to be out ot danger. But it is to be ob- ferved, that though this infeft be fo very noxious, yet fqueezing it between the palms of the hands is attended with no bad confequence ; from whence the plain inference is, that the callus, ufual on the hands of moft people, prevents the venom from reaching the blood. Accordingly the Indian muleteers, to pleafe the curiofity of the paflengers, fqueeze them betwixt the palms of their hands, though unqueftionably, fhould a perfon of a delicate hand make a trial, the effects would be the fame as on any other part of the body*. Nature is equally admirable in her works, and in her care of them. Man is endued with difcernment, knowledge, and obfervation, that he may avoid whatever is hurtful to his being ; and the irrational fpecies receive the like notices from inflindt, and are not lefs obfervant than man. The people who travel along thefe valleys, where they are fo much in danger of thefe coyas, according to the warning before given them by the Indians who attend them, though they feel fomething (tinging them or crawling on their neck or face, are careful not to fcratch the part, nor even fo much as lift up their hands to it, the coya being of fuch a delicate texture that it would immediately burfl; ; and as there is no danger whilft they do not ejefl: the humour in them, the perfon ac- quaints fome one of the company with what he feels, and points to the place ; if it be a coya, the other blows it away. The hearts, who are not capa!ble of fuch warning, are yet by inftiuct taught a precaution againft the danger which may refult from thefe infedts in the paftures ; for before they offer to touch the herbage, they blow on it with all their force in order to difperfe any of thofe pernicious vermin ; and when their fmell acquaints them that they are near a nefl of coyas, they immediately leap back and run to fome other part. Thus they fecure themfelves from the venom of thefe infedts, though fometimes a mule, after all its blowing, has been known to take in fome with its pafture, on which, after fwelling to a frightful degree, they have expired on the fpot. Among the plants of the country of Popayan, in the jurifdi£tion of Timana, grows the cuca or coca,an herb fo efteemed by the Indians in fome provinces of Peru, that they would part with any kind of provifions, the moft valuable metals, gems, or any thing elfe, rather than want it. It grows on a weak ftem, which for fupport twifts itfelf round another ftronger vegetable, lilce the vine. Its leaf is about an inch and a half, or two inches in length, and ex- tremelyfmooth ; the ufe the Indians make of it is for chewing, mixing it Avith a kind of chalk * The Brazilians fay, oil and fait is a certain cure for the poifon of the coyba. A. or 48B ulloa's voyage to south America. or whitifli earth called mambi. They put into their mouth a few cuca leaves, and a fuitable portion of mambi, and, chewing thefe together, at firft fpit out the faliva which that manducation caufes, but afterwards fwallow it ; and thus move it from one fide of the mouth to the other, till its fubftance be quite drained ; then it is thrown away, but immediately replaced by frefh leaves. This herb is fo nutritive and invigorating, that they labour whole days without any thing elfe, and on the want of it they find a decay in their ftrength : they alfo add, that it preferves the teeth found, and fortifies the ftomach. In the fouthern provinces of Peru great quantities of it are produced, being cultivated bv the Indians ; but that growing wild in the neighbourhood of Cufco is accounted the bell of any. It makes no fmall article in trade, particularly vaft quantities of it are car- ried to the mine towns, that the owners of the mines may have wherewithal to furnifh the Indians, who otherwife could not be brought to work, or would not have ftrength to go through it. This coca is exadlly the fame with the betel of the Eaft Indies. The plant, the leaf, the manner of ufing it, its qualities, are all the fame : and the eaftern nations are no lefs fond of their betel than the Indians of Peru and Popayan are of their coca ; but in the other parts of the province of Quito, as it is not produced, fo neither is it ufed. In Pafto, one of the mofl fouthern diftridts of Popayan, are certain trees which yield a refm called mopa-mopa ; and of this is made a varnifli, which, befides its exquifite beauty, v.ill bear boiling water, and even acids. The method of applying it is, to dif- folve fome of the refin in one's mouth, and then wet the pencil ^uith it ; afterwards it is dipped in the colour which is to be laid on, and when dried has all the lull re of the Chinefe laque, but with this fuperior quality, that it never wears off, nor becomes moift, though rubbed with fpittle. The cabinets, tables, Sec. made by the Indians of this coun- try, and thus varniihed, are carried to Quito, where they are highly valued. Popayan is one of the beft trading countries within the province of Quito, as all the vaft variety of Spanifh goods from Carthagena are configned thither and forwarded to Quito ; and great numbers of traders go their rounds through the feveral jurifdidions, to the great conveniency of the towns and villages, which thus fupply themfelves. Befides this tranfitory commerce, it has another reciprocal with Quito, to which it exports horned cattle and mules, and receives in return cloths and bays. Its active commerce confifts in dried beef, falted pork, roll-tobacco, hogs'-lard, rum, cotton, pita, ribbons, and other fmall wares, which are brought to Choco, and there exchanged for gold ; fugar and fnuff are imported from Santa Fe and fent to Quito ; and the returns to Santa Fe are home-made cloths and bays. Here is alfo another traffic, which confifts in barter- ing filver for gold ; for, there being an abundance of the latter, and a fcarcity of the former, filver is brought to exchange for gold, of which great profit is made by con- verting it into doubloons : the like is alfo praftifed at Choco and Barbacoas, which are in the fame cafe as to metals. Popayan being the centre of all thefe feveral kinds of commerce, the moft wealthy perfons ot the whole jurifdiftion are here, and five or fix of its inhabitants are reckoned to be mafters of above 100,000 dollars ; twenty to be worth betwixt 4c and 8o,coo, befides many of fmaller, yet handfome, fortunes : and this exclufive of their farms and mines, with which this country abounds. The former are the fame with thofe I have had occafion to mention in the other parts of this province, according to the quality of the temperature. Weft of the weftern Cordillera (if the Andes, is the government of Atacames, which on this quarter borders on the jurifdictions of the corregmientos of Quito and the town 10 of Ul.LOA*S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMEUICA. ' 489 of San Miguel de Ibarra ; northward on the department of Barbacoas in the govern- ment of Popayan ; its weftern boundary is the South Sea ; and fouthward it joins the territory of Guayaquil. Thus it reaches along the coafl: from the ifland of Tumaco, and the houfe of Hufmal, which He in one degree and a half north latitude, to the bay of Caracas, and the mountains of Balfamo, in 34' fouth latitude. The country of this jurifdidtion lay a long time uncultivated ; and if not wholly, at ieaft the greateft part of it, unknown ; for, after its conqueft by Sebaftian de Belalca- zar, the peopling of it was neglected, either becaufe the Spaniards were more intent in regulating their conquefts than in improving what they had got, or becaufe the country did not feem to them fo proper for a fettlement as the fierra or mountainous parts ; or perhaps they judged it barren and unhealthy. And though care was taken to furnifh Quito with priefts, to preferve its Indian inhabitants in an adherence to thofe precious truths they had embraced ; yet it was with the total neglefl: of that improve- ment of the country, which was feen in all the other parts where the Spaniards had fettled. Thus thefe people, though Chriftians by profeffion, remain in that rufticity and favagenefs natural to men who are out of the way of rational converfation and commerce to civilize them ; an Indian only coming now and then from their woods with aji, achote, and fruits, to fell at Quito, where they feem ftruck with amazement at the fight of fuch a concourfe of people at one place ; it being indeed far beyond what could be imagined by fuch a» feldom or never came to any diftance from their poor cottages, difperfed and fhut up in the woods, and living among the wild beafts. Though the country of Atacames lay thus neglefted for fome years after the intro- duftion of the Chriftian religion, and its inhabitants had performed homage to the King of Spain ; yet the importance of making fettlements here, and cultivating the ground, for facilitating the commerce betwixt the province of Quito and the kingdom of Terra Firma, was not unknown, as thereby an end would be put to the inconveniences of carrying it on by the way of Guayaquil ; which being a great circuit, the trade fuffered in many particulars ; and indeed could not long have fubfifted, without making a fet- tlement of Spaniards in Atacames ; as thus the way would be much fliorter for the commerce betwixt Terra Firma and Quito, which now conveniently fupplies it with provifions of all kinds, and receives European goods in return. Purfuant to thefe views, Paul Durango Delgadillo was, in the year 162 1, appointed governor of Atacames and Rio de las Efmaraldas. He had fome years before entered into a contrafl: with the Marquis de Montes Claros, for opening a way from the town of San Miguel de Ibarra to the river Santiago, one of thofe which traverfed the country belonging to the jurifdiclion of this government ; and likewife to people and cultivate it. But failing of fulfilling the agreement, though he was not wanting "^ endeavours, the government in the year 1626 was taken from him, and conferred or Francifco Perez Menacho, who however had no better fuccefs than he who had been difplaced. After thefe two, came Juan Vincencio Juftiniani in the fame character ; but he, feeing the infupcrable difficulties according to the methods of his predeceflbrs, confidently offered to make the way by the river Mira, but alfo failed in the execution ; and Don Hernando de Soto Calderon, who began it in the year 1713, and rather more fanguine in his affurances of fuccefs than the former, alfo difappointed the general expe£tation ; and thus the fo much defired communication of the province of Quito and the kingdom of Terra Firma remained as it was till the year 1735, when Don Pedro Vincente Mal- donado, being inverted with the fame powers as his predecelTors, furpalTed them in execution; and in 1741 laid open a direft communication betwixt Quito and the Rio de las Efmaraldas ; and having verified his proceeding before the audiences, and VOL. .\iv. 3 R obtained 490 ULLOA's VPYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. obtained their approbation, he returned to Spain, to folicit the confirmation of his employment as governor, and the rewards fpecified in the contract. On the favourable report of the fupreme council of the Indies, His Majefty, in 1 746, confirmed him as governor of that country, which, in 1 747, was formally erefted into a government, by the commiflion then given to the above gentleman, who by his fkill and refolution had fo well deferved it. The towns within the government of Atacames are at prefent but fmall and poor, having hitherto lain out of the way of traffic, and the country but little cultivated. However, this governor takes fuch meafures for the improvement of it, that already the face of things begins to alter greatly for the better ; and the fertility of the foil will naturally invite fettlers, and the communication being opened through it betwixt the kingdom of Terra Firma and the province of Quito, will caufe a circulation of money. In the mean time this government contains twenty towns, five of which are on the fea- coaft, and ftand the firfl; in the following lift : the others are inland places : I. Tumaco. XI. Tambillo. II. Tola. XII. Niguas. III. San Matheo de Efmeraldas. XIII. Cachillaaa. IV. Atacames. XIV. Mindo. V. La Canoa. XV. Yambe. VI. Lachas. XVI. Cocaniguas. VII. Cayapas. XVII. Canfa Goto. VIII. Inta. XVIII. Santa Domingo. IX. Gualea. XIX. San Miguel. X. Nanegal. XX. Nono. t The inhabitants of the five towns are Spaniards, Meftizos, Negroes, and Cafts, which fprung from thefe three fpecies. Thofe of the other fifteen are in general Indians, having few Spaniards, Mulattos, or Negroes, among them. With the fpiritual con- cerns eleven priefts are inverted, who continually refide in the great towns, and occa- iionally vifit the others, where are chapels of eafe. The temperature of Atacames is like that of Guayaquil, and accordingly produces the fame kinds of vegetables, grains, and fruits, though fome of them to a much greater perfeflion ; for, by lying higher, it is not fubject to the inundations proceeding from the fweiling of rivers : and thus the cacao, in its plantations and forefts, having all the moifture that plant delights in, without being drowned, is much fuperior to the other in fize; ^^linefs, and delicacy of flavour. It likewife produces in great abundance vanillas, achote, farfaparilla, and indigo ; alio a great deal of wax is made here : and the forefts are fo thick fet with trees of a furprifing bulk and loftinefs, as to be impene- trable ; and thefe trees, as in the forefts of Guayaquil, are of an infinite variety ; fome fitter for land works, others for naval ufes, and fome excellent for both. CHAP. IV. — Defcripiion of the Governments of Quixos and Macas ; with an Account of Jean de Bracamoros, the Difcovery and Conqucji of it. NEXT to the government of Popayan, which has been treated of in the foregoing chapter, follow thofe of Quixos and Macas, on the eaft fide of the Cordillera of the Andes ; it is divided into two diftri^s, Quixos being the north part of the government, and ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. -491 and Macas the fouth, with the country of Camelos lying betwixt them. As their fituation and other circumflances require that each fhould be treated diftinftly, I fliall begin with Quixos, which on the north fide borders on the jurifdidion of Popayan ; eaflward it reaches to the river Aguarico, and weftward is feparated from the jurif- diclions of Quito, Latacunga, and the town of San Miguel de Ibarra, by the Cordilleras of Cotopaxi and Cayatnburo. The firfl difcovery of the country of Quixos is owing to Gonzalo Diaz de Pineda, in the year 1536, who, among the officers fent from Popayan by Sebaftian de Belalcazar, to trace the courfe of the river of Magdalena, and take a furvey of the country adjacent to that which had been conquered, ivas appointed to make difcoveries in thefe parts, which he performed with great care and difpatch ; and finding it to abound in gold, and caffia trees, he returned to his commander ; and on his report, Gonzalo Pizarro, in the year 1539, at that time governor of Quito, marched to it with a defign of reconnoitring its whole extent, and making fettlements. But^ his expedition mifcarrying, the conqueft of this country, though from Pineda's report very defirable, was fufpended till the year 1 549, when the Marquis de Canete, Viceroy of Peru, gave a commiffion to Gil Ramirez Davalos, a man of undaunted courage when intereft was in view, for reducing the Indians and making fettlements in the country ; which he accordingly accomplifhed, and founded the town of Baeza, the capital of the government, in the year 1559; and it was foon followed by other, towns and villages, ftill exifling ; but with very little improvement beyond their firfl ftate. The town of Baeza, though the mofl: ancient of the country, and long the refidence of the governors, has always remained very fmall, which is owing to the building of the two cities of Avila and Archidona, ftill fubfifting, and at that time the chief objeft of the attention of the fettlers, Baeza being left as firft built ; and thefe, fo far from having increafed fuitably to the title of cities, which was given them at their foundation, remain on their firil footing. The caufe of the low ftate of the places here is the nature of the country, which, in air, fertility, and other enjoyments of life, being inferior to that of Quito, few fettle here who can live in the other. Baeza is indeed extremely declined, confifting only of eight or nine thatched houfes, with about twenty inhabitants of all ages, fo that from the capital it is become annexed to the parifli of Papalladla, in which town refides the prieft, who has befides under his care another town called Mafpu. This decay was no more than a confequence of the re- moval of the governor, who of late has refided at Archidona. The city of Archidona is a fmall place, lying in one degree and a few minutes fouth of the equinodtial, and about one degree fifty minutes eaft of the meridian of Quito. The houfes are of wood, covered with ftravv, and the whole number of its inhabitants is reckoned at betwixt 650 and 700, confifting of Spaniards, Indians, Meftizos, and Mulattos ; it has only one prieft, under whofe care are alfo three other towns, called Mifagualli, Tena, and Napo ; the laft receives its name from the river on the borders of which it ftands ; and this fituation proved its ruin on the 30th of November 1744, when, by the explofion of the Volcano, or Cotopaxi, of which a more particular ac- count ftiall be given in another place, this river became fo fwelled by the torrents of melted fnow and ice, that it entirely bore down the town of Napo, and the houfes were carried along by the impetuofity of the current. The city of Avila, but very much below that title, ftands on 0° 44" S. lat. and near 2° 20" E. of Quito. It is fo much lefs than the former, that its inhabitants fcarce amount to 300 of both fexes. Its houfes are built of the fame materials. It has alfo a 3 R 2 prieft. J^g2 ULLOA S VOYAGE TO SOUTH A5IERICA. prieft, whofe ecclefiaftical jurildiftion comprehends fix towns, feme of them in largenefs and number of inhabitants not inferior to the city. Thefe are, I. La Conception. IV. Motte. . II. Loreto. V. Cota Pini. in. San Salvador. VI. Santa Rofa. The foregoing towns conftitute the chief part of this government ; but it alfo includes the towns of the million of Sucumbios, the chief of which is San Miguel. At the beginning of this century they were ten, but are now reduced to thefe five : I, San Diego de los Palmares. II. San Francifco de los Curiquaxes. III. San Jofeph de los Abuccees. IV. San Chrilloval de los Yaguages. V. San Pedro de Alcantara de la Cocao, or Nariguera. The inhabitants of the two cities, and the villages in the dependencies, and thofe of Baeza, are obliged to be conflantly upon their guard againft the infidel Indians, who frequently commit depredations among their houfes and plantations. They compofe different and numerous nations ; and are fo difperfed all over the country, that every village is under continual apprehenfions from thofe which live in its neighbour- hood : and when an aftion happens between the inhabitants and thofe Indians to the advantage of the former, all they get by it is to return quietly to their dwellings with a few prifoners, no booty being to be had from a people who live without atiy fettle- ment ; and from mere favagenefs make no account of thofe things in which the bulk of mankind place their happinefs. Their method in thefe incurfions is, after an interval of apparent quiet and fubmiffion, to Ileal up to the Spanilh fettlements at a time when they have reafon to conclude that the inhabitants are off their guard ; and if their intent be anfwered, they fall to pillaging and plundering ; and, having got what is neareft at hand, retire with all fpeed. This perpetual danger may alfo be reckoned among the caufes which have hitherto kept the government in fuch low cir- cumlbnces. The temperature of all this country is hot and very moid. The rains are almofl: contirmal ; fo that the only ditference betwixt it, Guayaquil, and Porto Bello, is, that the fummer is not fo long : but the diftempers and inconveniencies of the climate are the fame. The country is covered with thick woods ; and in thefe are feme trees of a prodigious magnitude. In the fouth and weft part of the jurifdiction of Quixos is the canela or cinnamon-tree, which, as I have before obferved, being difcovered by Gonzalo Diaz de Pineda, he, from them, called the country Canclos, which name it ftill retains. A great quantity of it is cut for the necelTary confumption, both in the province of Quito and in Valles. The quality of this cinnamon does not come up to that of the Eaft Indies ; but in every other particular very much refcmbles it ; the fmell, its circumference, and thicknefs, being nearly the fame : the colour is fome- thing browner, the great difference lying in the talte, that of Quixos being more pungent, and without the exquifite flavour of that of the Eall Indies. The leaf is the fame, and has all the delicate fmell of the bark ; but the flower and feed furpafs even thofe of India ; the former particularly is of an incomparable fragrancy, from the 2 abundance LLLOA S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. 493 abundance of aromatic parts it contains ; and this favours an opinion, that the trees duly cultivated might be made in every refpedt equal to thofe of the ifland of Ceylon. The other products in the ifland of Quixos are the very fame with thofe in all the other lands in the fame climate as this government. The like may be faid of fruits, roots, and grains, as wheat, barley, and others, which, requiring a cold air, leldom thrive much in any of an oppofite quality. The other diftrid of Macas is bounded on the eaft by the government of Maynas ; fouthward by that of Bracamoros and Yaguarfongo ; and weilward, the eaft Cordillera of the Andes divides it from the jurifdidion of Rio Bamba and Cuenca. Its chief town bears the fplendid title of the city of Mucas, being the common name given to the whole country. And this is better knoVvn than its proper ancient name of Sevilla del Oro. It lies in 2° 30" S. lat., and 40" E. of Quito. Its houfes, which do not exceed one hundred and thirty, are built of timber, and thatched. Its inhabitants are reckoned at about one thoufand two hundred ; but thefe, and it is the fame all over this dif- trict, are generally Meftizos with Spaniards. The other towns belonging to this jurif- diction are : I. San Miguel de Narbaes. V. Zuna. II. Barahonas. VI. Payra. III. Yuquipa. VII. Copueno. IV. Juan Lopez. VIII. Aguayos. The fpiritual government of them all is lodged in two priefls ; one of v. hom refiding in the city has the care of the four firft : and to the latter, who lives at Zuna, belong that town and the three others. At the conqueft, and for fome time after, this country was very populous, and, in honour of the great riches drawn from its capital, was dilHnguiflied by the name of Sevilla del Oro ; but at prefent only the memory of its former opulence remains. Such an extreme declenfion proceeded from an in- furrecfion of the natives, who, after fwearing allegiance to the King of Spain, took arms, and made themfelves mafters of the city of Logrono, and a town called Guamboya, both in the fame jurifdiftion, and very rich. Thefe devaftations have fo difcouraged any further fettlement there, that the whole country lies as a wafte ; no money goes current in it, and the only way the wretched inhabitants have to provide themfelves with neceflaries is by bartering their home produds. The nearnefs of INIacas to the Cordillera of the Andes caufes a fenfible difference betwixt its temperature and that of Quixos : for though it be alfo a woody country, the diverfity betwixt the two moft diltant feafons of the year is manifcfl ; and as its territory is different irom that of the jurifdi6fion of Quito, fo the variety in the periods of the feafon is alfo great. Thus winter begins here in April, and lafts till September, which is the time of fummer betwixt the Cordilleras : and at Macas the fine feafon is in September, and is the more delightful on account of the winds which are then moftly northward : and thus charged with the frigorific particles which they have fwept away from the fnowy mountains over which they have paffed. The atn:ofphere is clear ; , the iky fcrene ; the earth clothed in its various beauties ; and the iiihabitants, gladdened by fuch pleafmg objeds, rejoice that the horrors of winter are paffed, as they are no lefs dreadful and detrimental here than at Guayaquil. In grains and other products which require a hot and moifl temperature, the country is very fruitful ; but one of the chief occupations of the country people here, is the culture of tobacco, which, being of an exsellent kind, is exported in rolls all over Peru. 494 ui-loa's voyage to south America. Peru. Sugar canes alio thrive well here ; and confequently cotton. But the dread of the \^ild Indians, who have often ravaged their country, difcourages them from planting any more than what juft fufEces for prefent ufe ; they being here in the fame unhappy fuuation as in Quixos, the \-illages having in their neighbourhood bands of thofe favage Indians ; and when they imagine them to be furtheft off, are often fud- denly aflaulted by them, fo that they muft be ready at every infiant to take arms. Among the infinite variety ot trees which crowd the woods of this country, one of the moft remarkable is the ftorax, the gum of which is of a moft exquifite fragrancy ; but is rare, the trees growing in places at fome diftance from the \nllages ; and it is dangerous going to them, by reafon of the fa\-age Indians, who lie in wait like wild beafts. The like mav be faid with regard to the mines of Polvos Azules, or Ultra- marine, from which, by reafon of that danger, very httle is brought ; but a finer colour cannot be imagined. * The territory belonging to Macas alfo produces ciimamon-trees, which, as the Reve- rend Don Juan Jofeph de Lozay Acuna, prieft of Zuna, a perfon of eminent learning, and perfectly verfed in natural hiftory, told me, is of a fuperior quality to that of Ceylon, here known by the name of Spanilh cinnamon ; and this was confirmed to me by many other perfons of judgment. This cinnamon \Tfiblv differs from that of Quixos, which, as the fame perfon informed me, proceeds from the full expofure of the Maca trees to the fun, its rays not being intercepted by the foliage of any other trees near them ; and thefe alfo are at a diftance from the roots of other trees, which deprive them of part of the nourifhment neceffary to bring it to perfection. And this opinion is confirmed by a ciimamon tree planted either accidentally or by defign, near the city of Macas, the bark of which, and efpecially the bloffom, in its tafte, fragrancv and aromatic power, far exceeds that of the Eall Indies. Great quantities of copal are brought from Macas, alfo wild wax ; but the latter of little value, for, befides being reddifh, it never indurates ; and the fmell of it, when made into candles, and thefe lighted, is very ftrong and difagreeable ; and that of Guavaquil and Valles no better. Indeed all the wax in thofe coimtries cannot come into competition with thofe of Europe ; though it muft be obferved, that there is no fmall difference in the bee, which in this country is much larger, and its colour inclinable to black. However, it might be made fomething better, if the inhabitants were acquainted with the art of deanfing and working it as in Europe ; and if it could not be brought to equal the European, a greater confiftence might be given to it, which would be no fmall advantage. The government, which on the fouth limits the jurifdiftion of the audience of Quito, and follows next to Macas, is that of Jaen, which was difcovered and fubdued by Pedro de Vargara in the year 153S, whom Hernando Pizarro had appointed to com- mand in that expedition. Afterwards Juan de Salinas entered the countr)', with the title of governor of it ; and he having by his courage and courtefv reduced the Indians, and ingratiated himfelf with them, a more formal fettlement was made, and feveral towns built, which are ftill exifting, though in no better condition than thofe of Macas and Quixos. Some ftill retain the appellation of cirv, not that their largenefs, num- ber of inhabitants, or wealth, become the title, but on account of the privileges an- nexed to it. At the time of the conqueft this government was knowTi by the names of Iguahbngo and Pacamoros, fince corrupted into Yaguarfongo and Bracamoros ; the names of the * Probably mounlaln blvt, an ore of copper. Ultramarine is, from the lapis lazuli, unkBown in America; - govern- ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. 495 government conferred on Juan de Salinas. And thus they continued to be called for many years, till tlie Indians of both territories in a fudden revolt deftroyed the prin- cipal towns. Thofe which were fpared, after paffing near an age in wretchednefs and barbarifm, happily recovered themfelves, became united to the city of Jaen, as part of a government, with the title of Jaen de Bracaraoros ; and the title of governor of Yaguarfongo, was as before related, kept up by being annexed to the corregidor of Loja. The town of Jaen, with the addition of Pacamoros, or Bracamoros, from the reunion of the towns of that country to it, was founded in the year 1 549, by Diego Palomino. It ftands in the jurifdiclion of Chaca-Inga, belonging to the province of Chuquimayo, and is the refidence of the governor. It is fituated on the north fhore of the river Chinchipe, at its conflux into the Maranon. It lies in about 5" 25' fouth latitude, and its longitude may be conjetlured to be very little diftant from the meridian of Quito, if not under it. The account given of the mean condirion of the cities of Macas and Quixos alfo fuils Jaen. We muft however obferve, that it is much more populous, its inhabitants being, of all ages and fexes, computed at three or four thou- fand ; though thefe, for the mofl part, are Meflizos, with fome Indians, but very fevsr Spaniards. Juan de Salinas likewife found in his government of Yaguarfongo three other cities, ftill fubfifling, but fmall, mean, and defencelefs, like Jaen. Their names are Vallado- lid, Loyola, and Saniago de las Montagnas : the lafl borders on the government of Minas, and is only feparated from its capital, the city of Borja, by the Pongo de Manceriche. In this country of Jaen de Bracamoros are feveral fmall villages: I. San Jofeph. VI. Chinchipe. II. Chito. VII. Chyrinos. III. Sander. VIII. Pomaca. IV. Charape. IX. Tomependa. V. Pucara. X. Chucunga. The inhabitants of which are mollly Indians, with fome Meflizos, but no great number of either. Though Jaen ftands on the bank of the river Chinchipe, and fo near the Maranon, yet the latter is not navigable up to it : fo that thofe who are to embark on it, go by land from Jaen to Chuchunga, a fmall place on another river of that name, and in 25" 29' latitude, whence they fall down into the Maranon. This town, which may be accounted the port for Jaen, lies four days journey from the city, which is the me- thod of calculating the diftances here ; the difficulties of the road increafing them far beyond what they are in reality, that not feldom that which on good ground might be travelled in an hour or two, takes up a half and fometimes a whole day. The climate of Jaen, and the fame may be faid of the whole jurifdiclion of this government, is like that of Quixos, except that the rains are neither fo lafting nor vio- lent ; and, like that of Macas, it enjoys fome interval of fummer ; when the heats, tempefts, and all the inconveniences of winter, abate. The foil is fruitful in all the grains and prcduds agreeable to its temperature. The country is full of wild trees, particularly the cacao, the fruit of which, befides the exuberance of it on all the trees, is equal to that cultivated in plantations ; but is of little ufe here for want of con- fumption : and the carriage of it to diftant parts would be attended with fuch charges as 496 I'LLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. as to prejudice its fale. Thus the fruits rot on the trees, or are eaten by monkeys or other creatures. At the time of its firfl: difcovery, and the fucceeding conqueft, this country \vas in great repute for its i-iches ; and not undefervedly, vail quantities of gold being brought from it. But thefe gains were foon brought to a period by the revolt of the Indians, though in the opinion of many, who look upon thofe people to be a part of the human fpecies no lefs than themfelves, the infurredion was owing to the exceffive rigour of the Spaniards, in making them work in the mines under infupportable fatigues. At prefent, all the gold collefted here is by Indians wafhincj the lands of the rivers durin<^ the time of the inundations ; and thus find gold duft, or fmall grains of gold, with which they pay the tributes, and purchaie neceflaries ; and they make fo little account of this metal, that though by a proper induftry they might get a confiderable quantity, it is only the pooreft Indians that live near the fettlements who pra£tife it ; as for the independent Indians, they give themfelves no concern about it. The jurifdi£lion of this government produces in particular vaft quantities of tobacco ; the cultivation of it indeed is the chief occupation of all the inhabitants. After ileep- ing the plant in hot mead, or decoftions of fragrant herbs, in order to improve its flavour, and the better to preferve its ftrength, it is dried, and tied up in the form of a fauciflbn, each of a hundred leaves. Thus it is exported into Peru, all over the province of Quito, and the kingdom of Chili, where no other is ufed for fmoking, in cornets of paper, according to the cuftom of all thefe countries. This great vogue it owes to the manner of preparing the leaves, which gives it a particular |-elifh, and a ftrength to its fmoke, that is very agreeable to thofe who are fond of that amufement. The country alfo produces a great deal of cotton ; likewife large breeds of mules ; and thefe three articles conftitute the advantageous traffic which this government carries on with the jurifdidion of its province and the other parts of Peru. In the countries of Jaen de Bracamoros, Quixos, and Macas, are feen great numbers of thofe wild animals, a defcription of which has been given in treating of other coun- tries of a like climate. But thefe, befides tigers, are infefted with baftard lions, bears, dantas or grand beftias ;an animal of the bignefs of a bullock, and very fwift, its colour generally white, and its (kin very much valued for making buff leather ; in the middle of its head is a horn bending inward). Thofe three kinds of wild beafts are unknown in the other countries ; and that they are known here, is owing to the prox- imity to the Cordilleras, where they breed, as in a cold climate adapted to their nature : whence they foraetimes come down into the neighbouring countries ; but without this circumftance of lying fo near the mountains, they would never be feen. Among the reptiles in the country is themaca, a fnake which the Indians diftinguifh by the name of Curi-Mullinvo, havirig a fhining fpotted ikin like that of the tiger, Curi in the Indian language fignifying gold ; it is wholly covered with fcales, and makes a fright- ful appearance, its head being out of all proportion to the body, and has two rov,-s of teeth, and fangs like thofe of a large dog. The wild Indians, as an oftentatious mark of their intrepidity, and to give them a more terrible appearance, paint on their targets figures of this fnake, the bite of which is incurable ; and wherever it has feized, ir never lets go its hold ; which the Indians would alfo intimate by their device. CHAP. LLLOA S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMKIUCA. 497 CHAP. V. — Government of ALiynas, and of the River Maranon, or that of the Aviaz.ons ; its Difcovery, CourJ'c, and that of the Rivers running into it. HAVING treated of the governments of Popayan and Jean de Bracamoros, which are the northern limits of the province of Quito ; as alfo of Atacames, which is its weftern boundary ; I now proceed to the government of Maynas, the eaftern limit of its jurifdiftion. This is particularly entitled to a feparate and fuccindl defcription, as the great river Maranon flows through it. The government of Maynas lies contiguous to thofe of Quixos and Jean de Braca- moros, towards the eaft. In its territories are the fources of thofe rivers, which, after rapidly travernng a vaft extent, form, by their conflux, the famous river of the Ama- zons, known alfo by the name of Maranon. The fhores of this and many rivers which pay it the tribute of their waters, environ and pervade the government of Maynas. Its limits, both towards the north and fouth, are little known, being extended far among the countries of infidel Indians ; fo that all the account which can be expected is from the mifllonaries employed in the converfion and fpiritual government of the wild nations which inhabit it. Eaflward it joins the poflTeflions of the Portuguefe, from which it is feparated by the famous line of demarcation, the boundary between the Spanifli and Portuguefe pofleflions. Were I to confine myfelf in general to the extent of the government of Maynas, my defcription would be very imperfedf, and want the nobleft object of the reader's curio- fity, a defcription of the river of the Amazons ; a fubjeft no lefs entertaining than unknown ; and the more difficult of obtaining a thorough knowledge of, from its lying fo very remote. This defcription I fhall divide into the three following heads, which fliall contain its fource, and the principal rivers whereof it is compofed ; its courfe through the vafl: trads of land it waters ; its firft difcoveries, and the fubfequent voyages made on it ; in order to give an adequate idea of this prince of rivers ; and at the fame time a more circumftantial account of the government of Maynas. I. — Of the Source of the River Maranon, and of the many others which compofe it. As, among the great number of roots by which nourifhment is conveyed to a ftately tree, it is difficult, from the great length of fome, and the magnitude of others, to determine precifely that from which the produtl is derived ; fo the fame perplexity occurs in difcovering the fpring of the river Maranon ; all the provinces of Peru as it were emulating each other in fending it fupplies for its increafe, together with many torrents which precipitate themfelves from the Cordilleras, and, encreafed by the fnow and ice, join to form a kind of fea of that which at firft hardly deferves the name of a river. The fources by which this river is increafed are fo numerous, that very properly every one which iflues out of the eaftern Cordillera of the Andes, from the govern- ment of Popayan, where the river Caqueta or Yupura has its fource, to the pro- vince of Guanuco, within thirty leagues of Lima, may be reckoned among the num- ber. For all the ftreams that run eaftward from this chain of mountains, widening as they advance from the fource by the conflux of others, form thofe mighty rivers, which afterwards unite in the Maranon ; and though fome traverfe a larger diftance from their fource, yet others, which rife nearer, by receiving in their fhort courfe a greater num- VOL. XIV. 3 s ber 498 ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. ber of brooks, and, confequcntly, difcharging a quantity of water, may have an equal claim to be called the principal fource. But without confidently determining this intri- cate point, I fhall firft confider the fources of thofe which run into it from the more remote diflances, and next, thofe which precipitate themfelves down feveral cafcades formed by the crags of the Andes, and, after being augmented by others it receives, join the Maranon in a more copious ftreani ; lea'.ing it to the reader to determine which is the originaji fource. The moll received opinion, concerning the remotefl: fource of the river Maranon, is that which places it in the jurifdiclion of Tarma, ifiuing from the lake of Lauricocha, near the city of Guanuco, in 1 1° fouth latitude, whence it direfts its courfe fouth almofl: to 1 2" through J:he country belonging to this jurifdf, fome degree, inherit the general valour of their hufbands, and join them in oppofing an invader, from whom they imagined they had every thing to fear, which might in- flame their ardour ; as likewife from an emulation of military glory, of which there are undeniable inftances in the other parts of the Indies. The third and laft name is that of the Orellana, defervedly given to it in honour of Francifco de Orellana, the firft who failed on it, furveyed a great part of it, and had feveral encounters with the Indians who lived in its iflands or along its banks. Some have been at a great deal of pains to affign certain diftances through its long courfe, and to ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. 505 to appropriate to each of thefe one of the three names. Thus they call Orellana all that fpace from the part where this officer failed down in his armed rfiip till it joins the Ma. ranon. The name of Amazons begins at the influx of another river, at the mouth of which Orellana met with a flout refiftance from the women or Amazons ; and this name reaches to the fea : and laflly, the name of Maranon comprehends the river from its fource a confiderable way beyond the Pongo downwards all along the part of the defcent of this river through Peru, alleging that this was the part through which Pedro de Orfua entered the river ; fupporting their opinion by a derivation, to which we cannot fub- fcribe, namely, that he gave it this name on account of the difturbances which hap- pened among his men. The truth is, that the Maranon, the Amazons, and the Orellana, are one individual river ; and that what is meant by each of thefe names, is the vaft common channel into which thofe many rivers fall, which contribute to its greatnefs ; and that to the original name of Maranon the two others have been added for the caufes already mentioned. The Portuguefe have been the mod ftrenuous fupporters of this opinion, calling it by no other name than that of the Amazons, and transferring that of Maranon to one of the captainfhips of Brazil, lying betwixt Grand Para and Siara ; and whofe capital is the city of San Luis del Maranon. IJ. — Account of thefirft Difcoverles, and of the mojl famous Expeditions on the Maranon^ in order to obtain a 7nore adequate Idea of this famous River. After this account of the courfe and names of this river, I fhall proceed to the dif- covery of it, and the moft remarkable voyages made thereon. Vincente Yanez Pinzon, one of thofe who had accompanied the Admiral Don Chriftopher Columbus in his firfl voyage, was the perfon who difcovered the mouth through which this river, as I have before taken notice, difcharges itfelf into the ocean. This adventurer, at his own ex- pence, in 1499, fitted out four fhips, difcoveries being the reigning tafte of that time. With this view he fleered for the Canary Iflands ; and after pafTmg by thofe of Cape de Verd, continued his courfe direftly wefl, till on the 26th of January, in the year 1500, he had fight of land; and called it Cabo de Confolaclon, having jufl weathered a mofl violent florm. This promontory is now called Cabo de San Auguflin. Here he landed ; and, after taking a view of the country, coafled along it northward ; fometimes he loft fight of it, when on a fudden he found hinifelf in a frefh-water fea, out of which he fupplied himfelf with what he wanted j and being determined to trace it to its fource, he failed upwards, and came to the mouth of the river Maranon, v/here the iflands made a moft charming appearance. Here he ftaid feme time, cany- ing on a friendly traffic with the Indians, who were courteous and humane to thefe ftrangers. He continued advancing up the river, new countries appearing ftill as he failed further. To this maritime difcovery fucceeded that by land in the year 1540, under the con- dud: of Gonzalo Pizarro, who was commifTioned for this enterprife by his brother the Marquis Don Francifco Pizarro, on the report which Gonzalo Dias de Pineda had made of the country of La Canela, in the year 1536 ; at the fame time making him governor of Quito. Gonzalo Pizarro arrived at the country of Los Canelos ; and following the courfe of a river, either the Napo or Coca, it is not certain which, though more probably the firft, met with unfurmountable difficulties and hardfhips j and feeing himfelf deftitute of provifions of every kind, and that his people, by feeding on the buds and rinds of trees, fnakes, and other creatures, wafted away one after another, he determined to build a veffel, in order to feek provifions at the vox. XIV. 3 T place, 5o6 ulloa's voyage to south a:\ierica. place where this river joined another ; the Indians having informed him that there- he would meet with a great plenty. The command of this veffel he gave to Fran- cifco de Orellana, his lieutenant-general and confident, recommending to him all the diligence and punctuality which their extremity required. After failing eighty leagues Orellana arrived at the junction of the two rivers, but met with nothing of what he had been fent for ; being difappointed in the provifions he fought, the trees not bearing any fruit, or the Indians having already gathered it. His return to Pizarro feemed very difficult, if not impradicable, on account of the rapidity of the current ; befides, he could not think of returning, without bringing with him that relief fo earneftly expefted ; fo that, after long debating the matter with himfelf, he determined, without the privity of his companions, to fail with the current to the fea. But this could not long remain a fecret, the hoifting the fails fufficiently demon- ftrating his intentions ; and fome vehemently oppofmg fuch a defertion, as they called it, were near coming to blows. But at length Orellana, by plaufible reafons and magnificent promifes, pacified them ; and the oppofition ceafing, he continued his voyage, after fetting afhore Hernando Sanchez de Vargas to perifh with hunger, as being the ring-leader of the malcontents j and perfifling in his invedives againft Orel- lana's projeft. Pizarro, furprifed at having no account of Orellana, marched by land to the place where he had ordered him, and near it met with Hernando Sanchez de Vargas, who acquainted him with the whole affair of the veflel ; at which Pizarro feeing himfelf without refource, a confiderable part of his men dead, the other fo exhaulled with fatigue and hunger that they dropt down as they marched, and thofe in the belt ftate reduced to mere {keletons ; he determined to return to Quito, which, after fatigues and hardfhips even greater than the former, he at laft reached with a handful of men in the year 1542, having only reconnoitred fome rivers, and the adjacent country j a fervice difproportionate to the lofs of fo many men, and the miferies fullered in this enterprife. This was the firfl expedition of any confequence, to make difcovery of the river Maranon : and if the fuccefs of Pizarro was not equal to his force and zeal, he was at leafl the inftrument of its being entirely accomplilhed by another ; and to his refolu- tion in preffing forward through difficulties and dangers, and by his expedient of building the armed veflel, muff, in fome meafure, be attributed the happy event of Orellana's voyage, who, with a conflancy which fliowed him worthy of his general's favour, reconnoitred the famous river of the Amazons through its whole extent, the adjacent country, its innumerable iflands, and the multitude and diiference of nations inhabiting its banks. But this remarkable expedition deferves a more particular detail. Orellana began to fail down the river in the year 1541 ; and in his progrefs through the feveral nations along its banks, entered into a friendly conference with many, having prevailed upon them to acknowledge the fovereignty of the Kings of Spain formally, and with the confent of the caciques took possession of it. Others, not fo docile, endeavoured to oppofe, with a large fleet of canoes, his further navigation : and with thefe he had feveral fliarp encounters. In one Indian nation bravery was fo general, that the women fought with no lefs intrepidity than the men ; and by their dexterity fliowed that they were trained up to the exercife of arms. This occafioned Orellana to call them Amazons ; which name alfo paffed to the river. The fcene of this a£lion, according to Orellana's own account, and the defcription of the place, is thought to have been at fome diftance below the jundion of the Negro and Maranon. I Thus ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. ^ 507 Thus he continued his voyage till the 26th of Auguft, in the fame year ; when, having paffed a prodigious number of iflands, he faw himfelf in the ocean. He now proceeded to the ifle of Cubagua, or, according to others, to that of La Trinidad, with a defign of going to Spain, to folicit for a patent as governor of thefe countries. The diftance he failed on this river, according to his own computation, was eighteen hun- dred leagues". This difcovery was followed by another, but not fo complete ; it was undertaken in the year 1559 or 1560, under Pedro de Orfua, by commiffion from the Marquis de Canete, viceroy at Peru, who at the fame time confei'red on him the title of governor of all his conquefls. But the firft news of Orfua was, that he and the greatefl part of his men were killed in an ambufcade by the Indians ; a cataflrophe entirely owing to his own ill condufl:, which deftroyed the great armament made for ihis enterprife, and created an averfion to defigns liable to fuch dangers. In the year 1602, the Reverend Raphael Ferrer, a Jefuit, having undertaken the miflion of Cofanes, paffed down the Maranon, and attentively furveyed the country as far as the conflux of the two' rivers where Orellana had left Hernando Sanchez de Vargas ; and at his return to Quito gave a very circumftantial account of what he had feen, and the different nations he had difcovered. Another, but fortuitous, view of the river was taken in 161 6. Twenty Spanifli foldiers, quartered in Santiago de las Montanas, in the province" of Yaguarfo'igo, purfued a company of Indians, who, after murdering fome of their countrymen in the city, fled up the country, and embarked on the Maranon in their canoes. The foldiers, in falling down the river, came to the nation of the Maynas, who recdved them in a friendly manner ; and after fome difcourfe flaowed a difpofition of fubmitting to the King of Spain, and defired miffionaries might be fent them. The foldiers, on their return to Santiago, having made a report of the good inclination of the Maynas, and their defire of being inftrufted in the Chriflian religion, an account was fent to the Prince of Efquiloche, viceroy of Peru : and in 1618, Don Diego Baca de Vega was appointed governor of Maynas and Maranon ; and may be faid to have been in reality the firft, as neither Pizarro, Orellana, nor Orfua, though inverted with the title, were ever in poffeffion of it, having made no abfolute conquefts ; a neceffary circumftance towards realizing the title. This expedition was performed in 1635 and 1636, and was fucceeded by that of two Francifcans, with others of the fame order, who fet out from Quito with a de- termined zeal for propagating Chriftianity among the nations on the Maranon, But many of them, unable to fupport themfelves under the fatigues and hardfhips natural in fuch a country, and difcouraged with the little fruit their good defires produced, after wandering among mountains, woods, and deferts, returned to Quito, leaving only two, Dominico de Brieda and Andrew de Toledo, both lay-brothers. Thefe, either from a religious zeal, or naturally more brave and hardy, or of greater curiofity, ventured to penetrate further into thofe dreary wafles. They were indeed attended by fix foldiers, remaining of a whole company who had been fent, under Captain Juan de Palacio, for the fafeguard of the miffionaries ; but fo many of them had returned with the religious to Quito, that thefe fix and the captain were all that remained : and that officer, a few days after, loft his life in an aftion againft the Indians. The fix foldiers and two lay-brothers, however, continued with undaunted refolutlon to travel through countries inhabited by favages, unknown, and full of precipices on all fides ; at length they committed themfelves to the ftream, in a kind of launch ; and after many fatigues, hardlhips, and here and there a rencounter, reached the city T. r 2 of 5o8 ulloa's voyage to south America. of Para, at that time dependent on, or united with, the captainfhip of the Maranon, the governor of which refided at San Louis, whither they went, and gave him an account of what they had obferved in this navigation. At that time the crown of Portugal was annexed to Spain ; and the governor of the captainfliip, or Maranon, for the fovereign of both kingdoms, was Jacome Reyniundo de Norona, who, zealous for the improvement of this difcovery, as of the higheft importance to his Prince, fitted out a fleet of canoes, under the command of Captain Texera, to go up the river, and furvey the country with greater form and accuracy. This flotilla departed firom the neighbourhood of Para, on the 28th of October 1637, with the two religious on board ; and after an inceflant fatigue in making way againft the ftream, they arrived at Pahamino on the 24th of June 1638. This place belongs to the jurifdidion of the government of Ouixos ; whence Texera, with the foldiers and the two religious, went to Quito, where he gave an account of the expedition to the audiencia, which tranfmitted the particulars to the Count de Chinchon, Viceroy of Peru ; and he, agreeably to the zeal he had always manifelled for enlarging His Ma- jefty's dominions, held a council about making more particular difcoveries along the fhores of that river. Among other things, the Count de Chinchon gave orders, that the Portuguefe flotilla fliould return to Para ; and with it fent fome intelligent perfons, whofe zeal might be depended on, with orders to take an accurate furvey of the river and its banks ; and after difcharging this commiffion, to proceed to Spain, and make a report of their expedition to the council of the Indies, in order to be laid before His Majelly, that meafures might in confequence be taken for fecuring the conquefl of thefe nations. The perfons chofen were, the Reverend Fathers Chriftopher de Accuna and Andrez de Artieda, Jefuits, and perfons every way equal to the fervice. They left Quito on the 16th of February 1039 ; and having embarked with the armadilla, after a voyage of ten months, they arrived at Gran Para on the 1 2th of December, whence, according to their inftruftions, they pafled over to Spain, and completely acquitted themfelves of the trufl repofed in them. At the end of the laft century, another expedition was undertaken, for making dif- coveries on the Maranon ; but at that time it was already fo well known, that moft of the adjacent lands had been improved by the milhons which the Jefuits had fettled there : and the government of Manas now includes many nations, who, on the fervent preaching of the Jefuits, having embraced Chriftianity, vowed pbedience to the Kings of Spain ; and a happy alteration was feen in their morals and cufloms. The banks of this river, where before only wild Indians were feen living in the manner of hearts, were now turned into plantations and regular towns, the inhabitants of which fliewed that they were not deftitute of reafon and humanity. Thefe improvements were in a great meafuie owing to Father Samuel Fritz, who, in 1686, preached the Gofpel among thofe people, and in a (hort time was the inftrument of the converfion of many nations : but the continual fatigues and hardfhips, both by land and water, aiTetted his hedlih to fuch a degree, that he was obliged to fet out for Para in January 1689, and arrived there on the 1 ith of September of the fame year. Here he remained in a difagreeable inactivity, till his health was reftored, and fome affairs fettled v,fhich required inflruftions from the court of Lifbon. July the 8th 1691, Father Fritz left Para, in order to return to his miflion, which then reached from the mouth of the river Napo to fome diflance beyond the Negro, and included the Omaguas, Yurimaguas, Ayfuares, and many other adjacent nations, the moft numerous of the whole river. Ottober the 13th, in the fame year, he 1 1 returned ulloa's voyage to south AMERICA. jog returned to the town of Nueftra Senora de las Nieves, the capital of the Yurimagua nation ; and having vifited the reft under his charge, to the number of forty-one, all large and populous, he went, on other public aifairs, to the town of Laguna, the capital of all the miffions on the Maranon, where the fuperior refided ; and afterwards repaired to the city of Lima, in order to communicate to the Count de Moncloa, at that time viceroy, a full account of all thofe countries. This laft journey he under- took by the way of the rivers Guallaga, Patanapura, Moyobamba, Chachapoyas, Caxamarca, Truxillo, and Lima. The affairs which brought this indefatigable miffionary to Lima, where he was received with great honour, being finiflied ; Father Fritz, in Auguft 1693, ^^' ^^^ ^^i his return to his miffions, by the way of the city of Jaen de Bracamoros, with a view of reconnoitring the courfe and fituation of the rivers which, from thofe Ibuthern parts, fall into the Maranon. By the help of thefe additional lights, he drew a map of that river, which was engraved at Quito, in the year 1707 : and though it had not all the accuracy which could be defired, the father being without inftruments for obferving the latitudes and longitudes of the chief places, taking the courfe of the rivers, and determining the diftances ; yet it was received with very great applaufe, as being the only one in which were laid down the fource and direftion of all the rivers which join the Maranon, and the whole courfe of the latter till its junftion with the ocean. in. Account of the Conqitejl, MiJJions, and Nations, cjiablijhed on the Maranon. The difcovery of this famous river, and the furvey of the adjacent countries and nations, was followed by the conqueft of the nations who inhabited its banks and iflands. The mifcarriage of the expedition under Gonzalo Pizarro has already been mentioned : Orellana was not more fortunate ; when, purfuant to the grant of the government, he returned to fettle in it ; and Orfua's fate was ftill more deplorable, perifhing himfelf, with the greateft part of his followers. But we are now to fpeak of the more fuccefsful enterprize of Don Diego Baca de Vega, whom we have already mentioned, but in a curfory manner. The government of Maynas, and the Maranon, having been conferred on De Vega ; confident of the good difpofitions of the Maynas Indians, as it had been carefully cul- tivated, fince its fir ft commencement with the Santiago foldiers, he entered the country with a little colony, and founded the city of San Francifco de Borga, in 1634, as the capital of the whole government ; a title which it juftly deferved, for being the firft erected in that vaft country ; and alfo on account of the friendftiip which the Indians had ftiewn for the Spaniards ever fince their firft arrival. The new governor being a perfon of judgment and penetration, was not long in obferving that thefe nations were rather to be governed by moderation and gentlenefs, with a proper firmnefs to create refpeft, than by rigour or aufterity : and accordingly informed the audiencia of Quito and the Jefuits of their difpofition. Miffionaries were accordingly fent them, in the perfons of Gafpar de Cuxia and Lucas de Cuebas, who came to Maynas in the year 1637 ; and their preaching had fuch remarkable fuccefs, that, being not of themfelves fufficient for inftrudling the multitudes of new converts, they fent to Quito for affift- ance : and thus the number of miffions continually increafed, and whole nations re- forted from their forefts in fearch of the light of the Gofpel. By this means the King's dominions were extended, every profelyte with joy acknowledging himfelf in his 5IO ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. his new ftate a fubjefl: of the King of Spain, as he owed to his bounty the ineftimable felicity of his converfion. Thus the miffions and the number of towns increafed together, and the propagation of the Chriftian religion in thofe remote countries, and the aggrandifement of the Spanifli monarchy, went hand in hand. But the moil diftinguiflied jera of thefe pro- greffions was the year 1686, by the zeal and aftivity of Father Fritz, whom we have had occafion before to mention with honour : he went direftly among the nation of the Omaguas, who having by the Cocamas Indians been informed of the mildnefs and wifdom with which the miffionaries taught them to live under juft and wholefome laws, and a police hitherto unknown among them ; together with the many happy effeSs it had produced in thofe nations which had conformed to their inftruftions ; animated with thefe pleafmg relations, they fent, in 1681, a deputation to the town of Laguna, belonging to Cocamas, where Father Lorenzo Lucero, fuperior of the miflions, refided, entreating him to fend among them perfons for their inflruftion : but the father at that time was not in a capacity of complying with their requeft, all the miflionaries being employed elfewhere. He therefore difmifled them, with commending their good inten- tions ; promifing them, that he would fend to Quito for a proper perfon to inflrudl them in thofe falutary doftrines embraced by the other nations. The Omaguas, full of anxiety, did not give Father Lorenzo Lucero time to negleft his promife ; for, on hearing that new miflionaries, and among them Father Samuel Fritz, were jufl arrived at Laguna from Quito, the fame deputation returned to requeft the immediate performance of the promife ; and having the greatefl: reafon to expeft it would be complied with, great part of the people came in canoes to the town of Laguna, as a teftimony of refpeft to Father Fritz, in order to conduft him to their country, where they treated him with fuch veneration, that in his progrefs through the towns they would not fuller him to walk, but carried him on their fhoulders ; an honour which the caciques referved to themfelves alone. The effedts of his preaching were anfwerable to thefe marks of ardour and efteem, fo that in a fhort time the ■whole nation was brought to a ferious profeflion of Chriftianity, deploring their former ignorance and brutality, and forming themfelves into a political community, under laws calculated for the happinefs of fociety. And their example fo influenced feveral other adjacent nations, that the Yurimaguas, Afuares, Banomas, and others, unani- moufly and voluntarily came and addreflTed themfelves to Fatlier Fritz, defiring him to inftruft them how to live in the fame order and regularity as the Omaguas. Thus whole nations, on embracing Chrifliianity, fubmitted to the fovereignty of the Spanifli monarchs : and all the countries from the Napo to a confiderable dillance below the Negro, were reduced without the leafl: force throughout the whole extent of the government of Maynas : and fuch, at the end of the lafl: century, was the number of the nations thus converted, that Father Fritz, though without indulging hinifelf in any refpite, was not able to vifit every fingle town and village within the compafs of a year, exclufively of the nations under the care of other miflionaries, as thofe of the Maynas, Xebaros, Cocamas, Panos, Chamicuros, Aguanos, Muniches, Otanabes, Roamaynas, Gaes, and many more. The other miflions were in the fame flourifliing condition. The city of San Francifco de Borja, which we have already mentioned as the capital of Maynas, fl:ands in 4° 28" S. lat. and 1° 54" E. of the meridian of Quito : but of its largenefs and appearance we can only add, that it refembles the cities of the govern- ment of Jaen : and its inhabitants, though confifling of Meflizos and Indians, and the place is the refidence of the governor of Maynes and Maranon, yet they are not equal in number to thofe of Jaen de Bracamaros. The principal town of the miflions, and in ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 5 1 I ill which the fuperior is obliged to refide, is Santiago de la Laguna, lying on the eaftern bank of the river Guallaga. The places which at prefent compofe thofe raiflions in the government of Maynas, and diocefe of Quito, are : On the River Napo. I. San Bartholome de Necoya. 11. San Pedra de Aguarico. III. San Eftaniflao de Aguatico. IV. San Luis Gonzaga. V. Santa Cruz. VI. El Nombre de Jefus. VII. San Pablo de Guajoya. VIII. El Nombre de Maria. IX. San Xavier de Icaguates. X. San Juan Bautifta de los Encabellados. XI. La Reyna de los Angeles. XII. San Xavier de Urarines. On the River Maranon, or Amazons. I. La Ciudad de San Francifco de Borja. II. La Certaon, or inland country towards St. Terefa. III. San Ignacio de Maynas. IV. San Andres del Alto. V. Santo Thomas Apoftol de Andoas. VL Simigaes. VII. San Jofeph de Pinches. VIII. La Concepcion de Cagua-panes. IX. La Prefentacion de Chayabitas. X. La Incarnacion de Paranapuras. XI. La Conception de Xebaros. XII. San Antonio de la Laguna. XIII. San Xavier de Chamicuro. XIV. San Antonio Adad de Aguanos. XV. Nueftra Senora de las Neves de Yurimaguas, XVI. San Antonio de Padua. XVII. San Joaquin de la Grande Omagua. XVIII. San Pablo Apoftol de Napeanos. XIX. San Phelipe de Amaonas. XX. San Simon de Nahuapo. XXI. San Francifco Regis de Yameos. XXII. San Ignacio de Bevas 'y Caumares. XXIII. Nuefta Senora de las Nieves. XXIV. San Francifco Regis del Baradero, Befides thefe towns, which have exifted for fome time, there are feveral others yet in their infancy ; and the Indians, by whom they are inhabited, of diiferent nations from thofe above-mentioned : likewife many others, both large and populous ; fome on the banks of the rivers which fall into the Maranon, and others up the country. Many sit ULLOA's voyage to south AifERICA. Many of the inhabitants of both nations hold a friendly intercourfe with the Spanifh mifTionaries, and with the inhabitants of the Chriflian villages, with whom they traffic, as well as with the Spaniards and Meftizos, fettled at Borja and Laguna. AH thefe nations of Indians have fome refemblance in their cuftoms ; but in their languages very different, every one feeming to have a particular dialed):, though there are fome of a nearer affinity than others to the general language of Peru. The moft difficult to be pronounced is that of the Yameos Indians : while, on the other hand, none is fo eafy and agreeable to the ear as that of the Omaguas : and the genius and tempers of thefe two nations were foiind to be as different as their language. Thus the Omaguas, even before their fubmiffion, gave many furprizing proofs of the clearnefs of their intelleds ; but were furpaffed by the Yurimaguas, both in wit and penetration. The former lived in villages under fome kind of government, peacefully obeying their curacas or chiefs. They were lefs barbarous ; their manners lefs turbulent and corrupt than thofe of mofl other Indians. The Yurimaguas formed a kind of republic ; and had fome laws which were flrittly obferved, and the breach of them puniffied in an exemplary manner. But in police the preference doubtlefs belongs to the Omaguas : for, befides living in fociety, there was an appearance of decency among them, their nudities being covered, which by others were totally neglected. This difpofition in thofe two nations for making approaches, however fmall, to civil cuftoms and a rational life, not a little contributed to the fpeedy progrefs of their converfion. They were more eafily convinced, from the light of nature, of the truth and propriety of the doftrines preached by the miffionaries ; and were convinced, that happinefs, both pub- lic and private, was intimately connected with an uniform obfervance of fuch precepts, inflead of the innumerable evils refulting from the manner of living hitherto pradifed by them. Among the variety of fmgular cuftoms prevailing in thefe nations, one cannot help being furprifed at the odd tafte of the Omaguas, a people otherwife fo fenfible, who, to render their children what they call beautiful, flat the fore and hind parts of the head, which gives them a monftrous appearance ; for the forehead grows upwards in proportion as it is flatted ; fo that the diftance from the rifing of the nofe, to the beginning of the hair, exceeds that from the lower part of the nofe to the bottom of the chin : and the fame is obfervable in the back part of the head. The fides alfo are very narrow, from a natural confequence of the preffure ; as thus the parts prcffed, inftead of fpreading, conformably to the common courfe of nature, grows upwards. This pradlice is of great antiquity among them ; and kept up fo ftrictly, that they make a jeft of other nations, calling them calabafh heads. In order to give children this beautiful flatnefs, the upper part of the head is put, foon after the birth, betwixt two pieces of board ; and repeated, from time to time, till they have brought it to the falhionable form. Another nation of thefe Indians, affcfliing a ftriking appearance, make feveral holes in both their upper and under lips, both fides of the cartilage of their nofe, their chins, and jaws , and in thefe they ftick fine feathers, or little arrows, eight or nine inches long. The reader's own imagination will fufficiently paint the ftrango appear- ance they muft make with thefe decorations. Others place a great beauty in long ears ; and accordingly extend them by art to fuch a degree, that in fome the inferior lobe touches the fhoulder : and they value themfelves on the nickname of long ears, which has been given them in ridicule. The method they make ufe of to extend their ears, is this : they bore a hole in the lobe, and faften to it a fmall weight, which they from time to time increafe, till the ear is Ilretched to nearly the length above- mentioned ; Ur.LOA S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. 513 mentioned : and as the lobe increafes in length, fo likettife does it in magnitude. Others paint fome parts of their bodies ; fome the whole. All have fomething peculiar in their modes and cuftoms, but generally of fuch a nature, that Europeans v%onder how thev could ever enter the thoughts of rational creature?. * After defcribing this great river, and gl^■ing an account of tr.e \'illages and nations- near its banks, I (hall proceed to fome other particularities relating to it ; as the ex- traordinar\- fpecies of fifh found in its waters, and likewife the birds and other animals feen in the adjacent countries through which it flows. Among the various kinds of fifli, are two of an amphibious nature ; the caymans or alligators, and the tortoife, which fwarm on the ihores and iflands. Its tortoifes, for tafte, are preferred to thofe of the fea. Another remarkable fifh here is the pexe-buev, or fea-cow, fo called from its refembling the land quadruped of that name. -This is one of the largeft fpecies knowTi in the river, being generallv three or four yards in length, and of a proportional thicknefs : the flefh is ver\' palatable, and, according to fome, has pretty- much the tafte of beef. It feeds on the herbage growing along the fhore, but the ftruclure of its body .does not admit of its coming out of the water. The female has dugs for fuckling its voung ; and whatever feme may have faid of any farther refemblance to the terreftriai fpecies of that name, it has neither horns nor legs. It has indeed two fins, which ferve equally for fwimming, and fuppordng itfelf on the banks whilft feed- ing. The general method of the Indians for fifhing, i^ with inebriating herbs, like tbat I have mentioned on the river Guayaquil. On fome occafions they make ufe of arrows dipped in poifon, of fuch an aftint}-, that the flighteft wound immediately kills the fifli. This is alfo their method of hunting ; and in both they are fo very expyert and acHve, that they are very feldom known to miis their aim. This powerful venom is principally the juice of a- bejuco, near fix fingers broad, and flat on both fides, of a brownilh colour, and growing in ven,' damp marfhy places. In order to prepare the poifon, they cut it into pieces, which they bruife and boil in water. On taking it off the fixe, they add to it a particular ingredient which caufes a coagulation. With this they rub the point of their arrows ; and when dr)-, for want of frefh imction, they moiften it with their fpittle : the qualit)' of it is fo frigorific, that it immediately repels all the blood to the heart, where the veflels burft, being unable to contain fuch a torrent as fuddenly rufiies into them. But what is moft furprifmg here, is, that the creature thus killed, and its coagulated blood, are eaten without any inconveniency. The moft powerful antidote to this venom is, immediately to eat fugar : but this fpecitic, though often falutary, is not infallible, as feveral melancholy inftiances have demonftrated. The borders and pans adjacent to this famous river, as well as thofe contiguous to the others which difcharge their waters into it, abound with large and lofty trees, the wood of w-hich is of different colours ; fome white, others of a dark brown ; fome red, or veined with variety of colours. Some of another fpecies diftil baUams of an exqui- fite fiagrancy, or rare and medicinal gums ; others are noted for their delicious and falubrious fruits. Among thefe the wild cacoa, by the mere goodnefs of the foil, with- out any culture, grows in the greateft plent)-, and yields fruit of a goodnefs equal to that in the jurifdiction of Jean and Ouixos. Here alfo are gathered great quantities of farfaparilla, vanillas, and a bark called Declavo, or cloves : for though it refembles * Another remarkable cuftom is, that of their tying their privities in > bladder before they go into the water. A. VOL. xn'. 3 V dnnamon 514 ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. cinnamon in appearance, except its colour, which is fomething darker, its tafte and fmell are very different, being nearly the fame with that of the Eaft India clove. Aa to quadrupeds, birds, reptiles, and infeds, they are nearly the fame, and in as great numbers as thofe already mentioned in the defcription of other hot countries. One reptile of a very extraordinary nature, and known only here and in the provinces of New Spain, I fliall, as a conclufion of my account of the Maranon, add a defcrip- tion of. In the countries watered by that valt river, is bred a ferpent of a frightful magnitude, and moft deleterious nature. Some, in order to give an idea of its largenefs, affirm, that it will fwallow any beaft whole ; and that this has been the miferable end of many a man. But what feems ftill a greater wonder, is the attraftive quality attributed, to its breath, which irrefiftibly draws any creature to it, which happens to be within the fphere of its attraftion : but this, I muft own, feems to furpafs all belief. The Indians call it jacumama, i. e. mother of water : for as it delights in lakes and marfhy places, it may, in Ibme fenfe, be confidered as amphibious. I have taken a great deal of pains to inquire into this particular ; and all I can fay is, that the reptile's magnitude is really furprifing. Some perfons, whofe veracity is not to be queftioned, and who have feen it in the provinces of New Spain, agreed in their account of the enormous corpulency of this ferpent ; but, with regard to its attradlive quality, could fay nothing decifive.* Sufpending, therefore, for the prefent, all pofitive judgment, without giving entire credit to all the qualities vulgarly attributed to this animal, efpecially the more fufpedt- ed, as not improbably flowing from aftonifhment, which frequently adopts abfurdities, it being impoffible, in fo great a perturbation, to confult reafon ; let me be indulged, with fome variation of the accidents, to inveftigate the caufe, in order to come at the knowledge of its properties, which it is difficult to afcertain, unlefs Cupported by un- doubted experiments. Not that I would offer my opinion as a decifive rule : I dcfire that the judgment of others may declare for that which appears moft conformable to truth, i would alfo further acquaint the reader, that I only fpeak from the teflimony of thofe who have feen this famous ferpent, having never myfelf had an opportunity of examining it with my own eyes. Firft, it is faid, that this ferpent, in the length and thicknefs of its body, very much refembles the trunk of an old tree, whofe roots have for fome time ceafed to convey the ufual noui ifhment ; and that on every part of it grows a kind of mofs, like that feen on the bark of wild trees. This is accounted for by the duft and mud adhering to it ; and alternately moiftened and dried by the water and fun. This forms a flight cruft over the thick fcalesj and this cruft is increafed by the fluggifhnefs and flow motion of the ferpent ; which, unlefs when forced by hunger to go in quefl of food, continues * I have feen three of thefc ferpents killed ; out of the body of one of them was taken a hog about ten ilonc in weight. The largeft was about eleven feet long, and twenty-three inches in circumference ; the fmallcft nbout nine feet long, and nineteen in circumference. They generally lie coiled up, and wait till tlieir prey patTes near enouich to be fcized. As they are not eafily diitinguiflicd from the large rotten wood (which lies about in plenty in thefe parts), they have opportunities enough to feize their prey and fatiate their hunger. The Indians watch tliis opportunity, and when they have half gorged their prey, kill them without danger. As I was walicing in the woods one day, attended by two Indians and a Ne- gro boy, we were within ten yards of one of thefe ferpents, when the Negro cried out. Cobra, Senhor ! Cobra, Senhor ! on which it made away into a neighbouring thicket, which concealed from our fight the moft hideous creature I at that time had ever feen. ,In its motion, which was flow and peculiar to that ferpent, it appeared like a ferpentine log, with two bright gems for eyes, plated within three or four inches from the end which was fartheft from us, from which rays of azure light feemed to dart. A. motionlefs ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. 515 motionlefs in one place for feveral days together ; and even then its motion is almoft imperceptible, leaving a track like that of a log of timber drawn along the ground. Its breath is afferted to be of fuch a nature as to caufe a kind of drunkennefs or ftu- pidity in man or beaft, which has the misfortune of being within the bounds of its adivity ; and thus caufes the animal involuntarily to move till it unhappily coines within the reach of the ferpent, which immediately fwallows it. This is the vulgar report : and it is added, that the only method of averting the danger, is, on firft feeling the breath, to cut it, that is, to flop it by the interpofition of another body, which haftily intervening, cuts the current of the blafl and diffipates it. Thus the perfon, who was moving on to certain deftruction, is enabled to take another path, and avoid the fatal :ataftrophe. Thefe particulars, if thoroughly confidered, feem mere fables : as indeed the learned M. de la Condamine intimates ; and the very circumftances with which they are decorated, increafe their improbability. But, in my opinion, with a little alteration in the circumftances, what feems to fliock credibiHty, will appear natural and founded on truth. That its breath is of fuch a quality as to produce a kind of inebriation in thofe whom it reaches, is far from being impoffible ; the urine of the fox is well known to have the fame effeft ; and the breath of the whale is frequently attended with fuch an infupportable fcetor as to bring on a diforder in the brain. I therefore fee no manner of difficulty in admittmg, that the breath of this ferpent may be of that intoxicating quality attributed to it ; and may be confidered as an expedient for catching its prey, as otherwife the creature, from the flow movement of its body, would be utterly in- capable of providing itfelf with food ; whereas, by this deleterious fmeli, the animal may be thrown into fuch horror and perplexity, as to be unable to move, but remain fixed like a ftatue, or faint away, whilft the fnake gradually approaches and feizes it. As to what is related of cutting the breath, and that the danger is limited to the direc- tion in which the ferpent breathes; theie are tales which, to believe, would imply an utter ignorance of the origin and progrefs of odours. In fhort, the vulgar errors, pro- pagated by thefe rude nations, have gained credit among the Spaniards, merely becaufe none has had the curiofny or refolution to put them to the tefl of experience. CHAP. VI. — Of the Genius, CuJIotiu, and Manners of the Indians, who are Natives of the Province of Quito. THE fubjeft of this chapter, and its circumftances, are of fuch a nature, that, if what ancient hiftories deliver concerning them fnould recur to the memory, they will appear totally different. Indeed the difproportion between what I read, and what I an going to relate, is fo remarkable, that, on a retrofpefl: towards paft times, I am utterly at a lofs to account for the univerfal change of things ; efpecially when fur- rounded by fuch vifible monuments of the induftry, polity, and laws of the Indians of Peru, that it would be madnefs to queftion the truth of the accounts that have been given of them ; for the ruins of thefe ancient works are ftill amazing. On the other hand, I can ha'dly credit my own eyes, when I behold that nation involved, as it were, in Cimmerian darknefs, rude, indocile, and living in a barbarifm little better than thofe who have their dwelling among the waftes, precipices, and forefts. But what is ftill more difficult to conceive is, how thefe people, whofe former wifdom is confpicuous in the equity of their laws, and the eftablilhment of a government fo fmgular as that under which they live, Ihould at prefent Ihew no traces of that genius and capacity which 3 u 2 formed ri6 ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. formed fo excellent an economy, and fo beautiful a fyftem of fecial duties : though imdoubtedly they are the fame people, and ftill retain feme of their ancient cuftoms and manners. Leaving, therefore, this intricate fubjeft to be inveftigated by farther inquiries, I fhall proceed to give an account of the prefent Indians, their genius, cuf- toms, and qualities, according to the beft information I could obtain from a commerce with thofe people of all ranks, during ten years. Some particulars in this narrative will demonftrate that they ftill retain a few fparks of the induftry and capacity of the an- cient Indians of Peru ; whilft others will fhew that they are utterly deftitute of the knowledge of certain fciences which were common among their anceftors ; and that they are equally degenerated from their wifdom in making laws, and their regular ob- fervance of them. It is no eafy talk to exhibit a true pidture of the cuftoms and inclinations of the In- dians, and precifely difplay their genius and real turn of mind ; for if confidered as part of the human fpecies, the narrow limits of their underftanding feem to clafh with the dignity of the foul ; and fuch is their ftupidity, that, in fome particulars, one can fcarce forbear entertaining an idea that they are really beafts, and even deftitute of that inftinft we obferve in the brute creation. While in other refpefts, a more comprehen- five judgment, better-digefted fchemes, and conduced with greater fubtilty, are not to be found than among thefe people. This difparity may miflead the moft difcerning perfon : for, fhould he form his judgment from their firft actions, he muft neceflarily conclude them to be a people of the greateft penetration and vivacity. But when he reflefts on their rudenefs, the abfurdity of their opinions, and their beaftly manner of living, his ideas muft take a different turn, and reprefent them in a degree little above brutes. Such is the difpofition of the Indians, that if their indifference to temporal things did not extend itfelf alfo to the eternal, they might be faid to equal the happinefs of the golden age, of which the ancient poets have given fuch enchanting defcriptions. They pofTefs a tranquillity immutable, either by fortunate or unfortunate events. In their mean apparel they are as contented as the monarch clothed with the moft fplendid in- ventions of luxury ; and fo far are they from entertaining a defire for better or more comfortable clothing, that they give themfelves no manner of concern about lengthen- ing their own, though half their bodies continue naked. They fhew the like difregard for riches ; and even that authority or grandeur within their reach is fo little the objedt of their ambition, that, to all appearance, it is the fame thing to an Indian, whether he be created an alcalde, or forced to perform the office of a common executioner. And thus reciprocal efteem among them is neither heightened nor lelfened by fuch circumftances. The fame moderation appears in their food, never defiring more than what fuffices ; and they enjoy their coarfe fimple diet with the fame complacency as others do their well-furnifhcd tables. Nor do I indeed queftion but if they had their choice of either, they would prefer the latter ; but at the fame time they fhew fo little concern for the enjoyments of life, as nearly approaches to a total contempt of them : in fhort, the moil fimple, mean, and eafieft preparation feems beft adapted to their humour. Nothing can move them, or alter their minds ; even intereft here lofes all its power ; it being common for them to decline doing fome little aft of fervice, though offered a very confiderable reward. Fear cannot ftimulate, refpeft induce, nor punifTiment com- pel them. They are inde'^d of a very fingular turn ; proof againft every attempt to roufe them from their natural indolence, in which they feem to look down with con- tempt on the wifeft of mortals : fo firmly bigoted to their own grofs ignorance, that the wifeft ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 517 wifeft meafures to improve their underftanding have been rendered abortive ; fo fond of their fimplicity and indolence, that all the efforts and attention of the moft vigilant have mifcarried. But in order to give a clearer idea of their tempers, we fhall relate fome particular inflances of their genius and cuftoms ; as othervvife it will be irnpoffible to draw their true charadter. The Indians are in general remarkably flow, but very perfevering ; and this has given rife to a proverb, when any thing of little value in itfelf requires a great deal of time and patience, " That it is only fit to be done by an Indian." In weaving carpefs, cur- tains, quilts, and other fluffs, being unacquainted with any better method, at palling the woof they have the patience every time to count the threads one by one. fo that 'wo or three years is requifite to finifh a fingle piece. This flovvnefs undoul>tedly i'. not entii ely to be attributed to the genius of the nation ; it flows in fome meafure from the want of a method better adapted to difpatch : and perhaps, with proper infl:ruftions, they wo'jld make confiderable progreffes, as they readily comprehend whatever is fliewn them re- lating to mechanics ; of this the antiquities ftill remaining in the province of Q ''to, and over all Peru, are undeniable tefliimonies. But of thefe more will be faid in the fequel. This indifference and dilatorinefs of the Indians is blended with floth, its natural com- panion ; and their floth is of fuch a nature, that neither their own interefl:, nor their duty to their mafl;ers, can prevail on them to undertake any work. Whatever therefore is of abfolute neceffity to be done, the care of it is left to the Indian women. Thefe fpin, and make the half-fliirts and drawers, which conftitute the whole apparel of their huf- bands. They cook the matalotage, or food, univcrfally ufed among them ; they grind the barley for machca, roafl: the maize for the camcha, and brew the chicha , in the mean time, unlefs the mafter has been fortunate enough to get the better of the huf- band's floth, and taken him to work, he fits fquatting on his hams (being the ufual pofl:ure of all the Indians), and looks on his wife while flie is doing the neceffary work of the family ; but, unlefs to drink, he never moves from the fire-fide, till obliged to come to table, or wait on his acquaintance. The only domefl:ic fcrvice they do, is to plough their chacarita, or little fpot of land, in order to its being fown ; but the latter, together with the refl: of the culture, makes another part, which is alfo done by the wife and children. When they are once fettled in the above pofture, no reward can make them ftir ; fo that if a traveller has loll his way, and happens to come to any of thefe cottages, they hide themfelves, and charge their wives to fay that they are not at home ; when the whole labour confiifs in accompanying the traveller a quarter of a league, or perhaps lefs, to put him in his way : and tor this fmall iervice he would get a rial, or half a rial at leait. Should the paflenger alight and eater the cottage, the Indian would ftill be fafe ; for, having no light but what comes through a hole in the dfcor, he could not be difcovered : and even if he fliould fee the Indian, neither en- treaties nor offers would prevail on the flothful wretch to ftir a ftep with him : and it is the fame if they are to be employed in any other bufin-fs. That the Indians may perform the works appointed bv their maftcrs, and for which they are properly paid, it will be of little fignification to flicw them their tafk ; the maf- ter mult have his eye continually upon them : tor whenever he turns his back, the Indian imirediately leaves off working. The only thing in which tliey fliew a lively feni ition and alacrity, is for parties of pleafure, rejoicings, entertainments, and efpecrally danc- ings. But in all thefe the liquor muft circulate briflily, which feems to be their fupreme enjoyment. With this they begin the day, and continue drinking till they are entirely deprived both of fenfe and motion. 2 Such 5i8 ulloa's voyage to south America. Such is their propenfity to intemperance, that they are not reflrained by any dignity of character ; the cacique and the alcalde never fail to be of the company at all enter- tainments, and drink like the reft, till the chicha has quite overcome them. It is worth notice, that the Indian women, whether maids or married, and alfo the young men be- fore they are of an age to contraft matrimony, entirely abftain from this vice ; it being a maxim among them, that drunkejinefs is only the privilege of maflers of families, as being perfons who, when they are unable to take care of themfelves, have others to take care of them. Their manner of celebrating any folemnity is too fingular to be omitted : the perfon who gives the entertainment invites all his acquaintance, and provides chicha fufficient for the number of his guefts, at the rate of a jug for each ; and this jug holds about two gallons. In the court of the houfe, if it be a large town, or before the cottage, if in a village, a table is placed, and covered with a tucuyo carpet, only ufed on fuch feftivities. The eatables ccnfift wholly of camcha, and fome wild herbs boiled. When the guefts meet, one or two leaves of thefe herbs, with ten or twelve grains of camcha, finifti the repaft. Immediately the women prefent themfelves with calabafties or round totumos, called pilches, full of chica, for their hufbands ; and repeat it till their fpirits are raifed : then one of them plays on a pipe and tabor, whilft others dance, as they call it, though it is no more than moving confufedly from one fide to the other, without meafure or order. Some of the beft voices among the Indian women fing in their own language. Thus their mirth continues while kept up by the liquor, which, as I have faid before, is the foul of all their meetings. Another odd circumftance is, that thofe who do not dance, fquat themfelves down in their ufual pofture, till it comes to their turn. The table ferves only for ftate, there being nothing on it to eat, nor do the guefts fit down at it. "When tired with intemperance, they all lie down together, without minding whether near the wife of another, or their own fifter, daughter, ormorediftant relation; fo fliocking are the exceffes to which they give themfelves up on thefe folemnities, which are fometimes continued three or four days, till the pricfls find themfelves obliged to go in perfon, throw away all the chica, and difperfe the Indians, left they fliould buy more. The day after the feftival is called Concho, which fignifies the day for drinking oft' the remains of the preceding : with thefe they begin ; and if not fufficient to complete their revel, every one of the guefts runs home to his houfe, and fetches a jug, or they club for more. This occafions a new concho for the next day ; and thus, if left to themfelves, from day to day, till either no more chica is to be had, or they left without money or credit. Their burials are likewife folemnized with exceftive drinking. The houfe of mourn- ing is filled with jugs of chica ; and not for the folace of the mourners and their vifitors alone : the latter go out into the ftreets, and invite all of their nation who happen to pafs by, whether married or fingle of both fexes, to come in and drink to the honour of the deceafed ; and to this invitation they will take no denial. The ceremony lafts four or five days, and fometimes more, ftrong Hquor being their fupreme wifti, and the great objecl of all their labours. If the Indians are thus exceflively addifted to intemperance, gaming is a fault with which they cannot be charged, though thefe two vices are generally feen together. They feein to have no manner of inclination for play ; nor have they above one kind, and that of great antiquity, among them ; this they call pafa, i. e. a hundred, as he wins who firft gets that number. They play at it with two inftruments ; one ^ fpread eagle of wood with ten holes on each fide, being tens, and are marked with pegs, to ULLOA S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. 519 to denote every man's gettings ; the other is a bone in the manner of a die, cut with feven faces, one of which has a particular mark, and is called guayro. The other five tell according to the number of them, and the laft is a blank. The way of playing is only to tofs up the bone ; and the marks on the upper furface are fo many got. But the guayro goes for ten ; and the like number is loft if the blank fide appears. Though this game is peculiar to the Indians, it is very little ufed except at their revels. The common food of the Indians, as before obferved, is maize made into canicha or mote, and machca 5 the manner of preparing the latter is, to roaft the grain, and then reduce it to a flour ; and this, without any other apparatus or ingredient, they eat by fpoonfuls : two or three of which, and a draught of chicha, or, when that is wanting, of water, completes their repaft. When they fet out on a journey, their whole viati- cum is a Httle bag, which they call gucrita, full of this meal, and a fpoon. And this fuffices for a journey of fifty or a hundred leagues. When hungry, or fatigued, they ftop at feme place m here chicha is fo be had, or at fome water; where, after taking a fpooniul of their meal into their mouth, they keep it fome time, in order the more eafily to f^allovv it ; and with two or three fuch fpoonfuls, well diluted with chicha, or, if that is not to be had, with water, they fet forward as cheerfully as if rifen from a feaft. Their habitations, as may be imagined, are very fmall ; confiding of a little cottage, in the middle of which is their fire-place. Here both they, and the animals they breed, live promifcuoufly. They have a particular fondnefs for dogs ; and never are without three or four little curs in their hut : a hog or two, a little poultry, and cuyes, with fome earthen ware, as pots and jugs, and the cotton which their wives fpin, conftitute the whole inventory of an Indian's effefts. Their beds confift of two or three fheep- fkins, without pillows or any thing elfe ; and on thefe they fleep in their ufual fquatting pofture r and as they never undrefs, appear always in the fame garb. Though the Indian women breed fowl and ether domeftic animals in their cottages, they never eat them ; and even conceive fuch a fondnefs for them that they will not even fell them, much lefs kill them with their own hands ; fo that if a ftranger, who is obliged to pafs the night in one of their cottages, offers ever fo much money for a fowl, they lefufe to part with it, and he finds himfelf under the neceflity of killing the fowl himfelf. At this his landlady fhrieks, diifolves in tears, and wrings her hands, as if it had been an only fon ; till, feeing the mifchief pall remedy, Ihe wipes her eyes, and quietly takes what the traveller offers her. Many of them in their journeys take their whole family with them ; the women car- rying on their Ihoulders fuch children as are unable to walk. The cottages in the mean time are (hut up ; and there being no furniture to lofe, a ftring, or thong of leather, ferves for a lock : their animals, if the journey is to laft for feveral days, they carry to the cottage of fome neighbour or acquaintance : if otherwife, their curs are left guar- dians of the whole ; and thefe difcharge their truft with fuch care, that they will fly at any one, except their mafters, who offers to come near the cottage. And here it is worth obferving, that dogs bred by Spaniards and Meftizos have fuch a hatred to the Indians, that, if one of them approaches a houfe where he is not very well known, they fall upon him, and, if not called off, tear him to pieces : on the other hand, the dogs of Indian breed are animated with the fame rage againft the Spaniards and Meftizos ; and, like the former, fcent them at a diltance. The Indians, except thofe brought up in cities or towns, fpeak no language but their own, called Quichua, which was eftabliflied by the Yncas, with an order for its being propagated all over the vaft empire, that all their fubjedls might be able to underftand each other j and therefore was diftinguiihed by the name of the Yncas language. 1 1 Some 520 ULLOA S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. Some underilaiid the Spanifh, and fpeak it ; yet very few have the good-nature to anfwer in it, though they know, at the fame time, that the perfon with whom they are converfing cannot underiland them in Ouichua. Nor is it of any confequence to defire and prefs them to explain themfelves in Spanifh, for this they abfolutely refufe : whereas it is quite otherwife with the Indians born and bred in the towns ; for, if fpoken to in their own language, they are fare to anfwer in the Spanifh. Superftition is general among them ; and they all, more or lefs, pretend to fortune- telling. This weaknefs is alfo of a long {landing among them ; and which neither the remonftrances of the priefts, nor their own experience, can radically cure. Thus they employ artifices, fuppofed charms, and flrange compofitions, in order to obtain fome vifionary happinefs for the fuccefs of a favourite fcheme, or other weighty concern. In thefe preftiges their minds are fo infatuated, that, to bring them to a fight of the folly and wickednefs of fuch practices, and folidly to embrace the Chriftian religion, is a work of the greateft difficulty. And even when they have embraced it, are fo fuper- ficial and fickle, that, if they attend divine fervice on Sundays and holidays, it is merely from fear of punifliment ; for otherwife there would be fcarce one Indian, efpecially of the meaner fort, among the whole congregation. Pertinent to this, I (hall relate, among many other inftances, the following ftory, told me by a prieft. An Indian had, for fome time, abfented himfelf from the fervice of the church ; and the prieft being in- formed that it was owing to his drinking early in the morning, on the following Sunday, when he had been pardcularly ordered to make his appearance, charged him with his fault, and directed that he Ihould receive fome lafhes, the ufual punifhment of fuch delinquents, be their age or fex what it will, and perhaps the befl adapted to their ftu- pidity. After undergoing the punifhment, he turned about to the prieft, and thanked him for having chaftifed him according to his deferts ; to which the prieft; replied with fome words of exhortation to him, and the audience in general, that they would never omit any duty of Chriftianity. But he had no fooner done, than the poor Indian ftep- ped up to him, and defired that he would order him a like number of lafhes for the next Sunday, having made an appointment for a drinking match, fo that he fhould not be prefent. This may ferve as a fpecimen of the little imprefTion made on them, not- withftanding all the afliduity of the mifTionaries ; and that though continually inftrudled, from the firft dawnings of reafon till the day of their death, they are found to continue in a ftrange ignorance of the moft effential pohits of religion. Their indifference here is fo very deplorable, that they may be faid to give themfelves no more concern about their fouls than about their bodies , and though I with pleafure allow, that there are many who, in the culture of their minds, fandlity of manners, and delicacy of con- fcience, equal the moft wife and circumfpefl: ; yet the bulk of them, either by that grofs ignorance which clouds their intellefts, and renders them infenfible of their eternal concerns, or their natural depravity, are hardened againft religious exhortations. For though they readily grant every thing that is faid to them, and never ofler to make the leaft objection ; yet they fecretly harbour fufpicions of fome evil defign, and leave room for mental refervations, which fpoil all. 1 am little inclined to lay any falfe charge to this or any nation, and efpecially with regard to fuch an important fubjed : and in confir- mation of what I have faid, fhall relate fome further particulars. Every Sunday ui the year, the dodrinal priefts inftrudt their parifli in the articles of Chriftianity with indefatigable zeal : alfo, when any Indian is fick, they never fail to vifit and exhort him to prepare for a comfortable paffage into eternity, adding whatever they judge may conduce to the opening the eyes of his underftanding ; pathetically ex- patiating on the jullice and mercy of God, the nature of death, the certainty of an approaching ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 52 1 approaching judgment, and his prefent danger. After fpeaking thus a confiderable time, without a word from the patient, or the leaft fign of emotion in his countenance, the good man proceeds to remind him of his fins, and exhorts hir.i to a fmcere repent- ance, and to implore the mercy of his Creator ; as otherwife, his foul will be punilTied to all eternity. The Indian at length anfwers, with a ferene faintnefs, " So it will be, father :" meaning, that things will happen as he has predicted ; but does not underiland in what thefe threatened fufferings confift. I have often heard piiefts of thofe towns, and men of parts and learning, talk, vvith great concern on this fubjefl:. Hence it is that there are very few Indians to vvhom the holy eucharifb is admlniifered ; nor would thofe of the houfe, where a fick perfon lies, ever give notice of it to the prieft, were they not afraid of the punifliment which the law in thefe cafes infliciis ; and even as it is, they often neglefl: this duty, and the patient dies without receiving the facrament. In their marriages, they run counter to the fentiments of all nations, efteeming what others deteft ; a virgin being never the objett of their choice : for they look on it as a fure fign, that Ihe who has not been known to others, can have nothing pleafing about her. After a young man has afked the objeft of his aft'eftions of her father, and obtained his confent, they immediately begin to live together as man and wife, and afTift the father-in-law in cultivating his chacara. At the end of three or four months, and often of a year, he leaves his bride, without ceremony, and perhaps for the wild reafon above mentioned : and even expoftulates with the father-in-law, that he fliould endea- vour to deceive him, by impofing upon him his daughter, whom nobody elfe had thought worthy of making his bedfellow. But if nothing of this happens, after paffing three or four months in this commerce, which they call Amanarfe, i. e. to habituate one's felf, they then marry : and this cuftom is ftill very common, having hitherto proved too ftrong for the joint endeavours of the whole body of the clergy to extir- pate. Accordingly, the firfl queftion at the ceremony of marriage is, whether they are Amannados, in order to abfolve them of that fin before they receive the nuptial benediiElion. They look upon no marriage to be legal which is not folemn, and according to them the whole confifls in the nuptial benedidlion, which mufl be given them at the time they join their hands, as otherwife, on any caprice, they feparate : and it is to no purpofe to go about to perfuade them that they were married ; nor will any punifliment have the leaft effect. For as it does not imply any infamy, the inten- tion is loft. It is the fame thing with them to be expofed to the public derifion and infults, as to be ordered to ftiev/ their ikill in dancing on a feftival ; the thing which, of all others, they moft delight in. They are indeed fenfible of corporal punifliments during the time they are inflicling, but immediately afterwards are as placid and eafy as if they had not been touched. This occafions many things to be connived at in them, and other means of prevention ufed. It is not uncommon among them to change their wives, without any other prelimi- nary or agreement, than having been familiar with the wife of another. The former wife, together with the injured hufband, concert a revenge ; and if reproached for fuch a proceeding, they cheerfully anfwer, that they .had ferved them only as they deferved ; and it avails little to feparate them, as they foon find means to return to the fame manner of living. Incefts are very common among them, both as the confequence of their monftrous drunkennefs, already mentioned, and from their making no diftinclion between honour and infamy, whereby their brutal appetites are under no reftraint. VOL. XIV. 3 X If 522 ulloa's voyage to sorrn America. If the foregoing tempers or cufloms appear llrange, their behaviour at confeflion is not lefs fo : for, befides having but a flender acquaintance with the Spanifli language, they have no form to direft them in it. On their coming to the confeffor, which is always at hisfummons, he is obliged to inftrudt them in what they are going about, and with them repeat the Confiteor from one end to the other. For if he flops, the Indian alfo remains filent. Having gone through this, it is not enough for the prieft to alk him, whether he has committed this or that fault ; but if it be one of the common fort, he mufl: affirm that he has committed it, otherwife the Indian would deny every thing. The prieft further is obliged to tell him, that he well knows he has committed the fm, and he has proofs of it. Then the Indian, being thus prefled, anfwers, with great aftonifliment, that it is fo : and, imagining the prieft really endued with fome fuper- natural knowledge, adds circumftances which had not been afked him. It is not only difficult to bring them to declare their faults, but even to keep them from denying them, though publicly committed, and equally fo to prevail on them to determine the number ; this being only to be obtained by fmelVes ; and then little ftrefs is to be laid on what they fay. The natural dread, which more or lefs riles in all men at the approach of death, is what the Indians are lefs fufceptible of than any other people. Their con- tempt of thofe evils which make the ftrongeft impreffionson the minds of men, isfuch, that they view the approach of death without perturbation : and the pain of the diftemper affefts them more than the danger of it. This I have often heard from feveral of the priefts : and their words are confirmed by daily inilances. For when the priefts perform the laft offices to dying perfons, their anfwers are delivered with that compofure and ferenity, as leave no doubt but the inward ftate of their mind correfponds with thefe external appearances, being the principle and caufe of them. The like is even feen in thofe whom their crimes have brought to die by the hands of juftice ; and among many other examples, I happened myfelf to be an eye-witnefs of one. Whilft I was at Quito, two malefadors were to be executed ; one a Meftizo or Mulatto, and the other an Indian : both having been brought into the prifon-chapel, I went to fee them the night before the execution. The former was attended by feveral priefts, who, in Spa- nifli, exhorted him to die like a Chriftian, and fhew a becoming fervour in his love to God, faith, and contrition, and a deteftation for the crimes he had committed. On which, his afpeft and whole deportment fliewed a fenfe of his condition. The Indian had alfo ecclefiaftics about him, performing, in his own language, the like kind offices. But to all appearance he was lefs concerned even than thofe about him, and feemed rather to be tilling a chacura, or tending a herd, than on the eve of eternity. His appetite was fo far from leaving him, as was the cafe of his companion, that he was more eager, and after difpatching his own, would have cleared his fellow fufferer's plate ; fo that they were obliged to ufe fome force to prevent his eating to excefs on fuch an exigency. He talked to the fpeftators with that eafe and tranquillity, as if only going to take a (hort journey. He anfwered to the exhortations without the leaft confufion : when he was ordered to kneel, he did fo. The prayers and afts of devotion he alfo repeated word for word ; but all the time rolling his eyes about, like a fportive child, whofe weak age is diverted by trifling objcdts. Thus he behaved till brought to the gibbet, where his companion had been carried before him : nor did he ffiew the leaft alteration even in the awful moment. And this, to a civilized European fo ftrange, is no more than what is common among the Indians of thefe parts. This indifterence with regard to death, or intrepidity, if we may term it fo, fhcws itfelf upon many other occafions, particularly in the alacrity and resolution with which they face themfelves before a bull, with no other view than for the bull to run full at 3 , him. L'lloa's voyage to south America. 513 him, and tofs him fo high in the air, that any other than an Indian would be killed by the fall. He however rifes without receiving any hurt, and is highly delighted with the viftory, as he calls it, over the bull ; though the viclory feems to lie on the hull's fide. When they fight in a body againft others, they fall on, without any regard to fuperiority of numbers, or who drops, or is wounded of their party. An adlion which in a civilized nation is counted the height of courage, is here merely the efteft of barba- rifm and want of thought. They are very dextrous in haltering a bull at full fpeed ; and, as they fear no danger, attack him with what we ihould call great temerity. With the fame dexterity they hunt bears : and a fingle Indian, with only a horfe and his noofe, never fails of getting the better of all the cunning and rage of this furious animal. This noofe is made of cow hide, fo thin as not to be feized by the bead's paws, and yet fo ftrong as not to be broken by the ftruggles of the creature. On per- ceiving the bear, they immediately make towards him, whilft he fets up in order to feize the horfe. But the Indian behig come within a proper diftance, throws the noofe about the creature's neck : then, with furprifmg celerity having taken two or three turns with the other end about the faddle, claps fpurs to his horfe : in the mean time the bear, unable to keep pace with the horfe, and ftruggling to clear himfelf of the noofe, is choaked. This is confidered as an achievement of admirable dexterity and bravery ; and may be frequently feen in the province of Alaufi, near the eaftern Cor- dillera, where thefe animals abound. A great part of the rufticity in the minds of the Indians muft be imputed to the want of culture ; for they, who in fome parts have enjoyed that advantage, are found to be no lefs rational than other men ; and if they do not attain to all the politenefs of civilized nations, they at leaft think properly. The Indians of the miflion of Paraguay are, among others, remarkable inftances of this ; where, by the zeal, addrefs, and exem- plary piety of the Jefuits, a regular well-governed republic of rational men has been eftabliflied : and the people, from an ambulatory and favage manner of living, have been reduced to order, reafon, and religion. One of the mod effeftual means for this was, the fetting up fchools for inftruding the young Indians in Spanifh, in which they alfo inftruft their converts ; and thofe who are obferved to be of a fuitable genius, are taught Latin. In all the villages of the miffions are fchools for learning, not only to read and write, but alfo mechanic ti-ades ; and the artificers here are not inferior to thofe of Europe. Thefe Indians, in their cuftoms and intellefts, are a different fort of peo- ple from thofe before mentioned. They have a knowledge of things ; a clear difcern- ment of the turpitude of vice, and the amiablenefs of virtue ; and adl up to thefe fenti- ments : not that they have any natural advantage over the other : for I have obferved throughout this whole kingdom, that the Indians of its feveral provinces through which I travelled are alike. And thofe of Quito are not more deficient in their underflandings, than thofe of Valles or Lima : nor are thefe more acute or fagacious than the natives of Chili and Arauco. Without going out of the province of Quito, we have a general inflance in confirma- tion of what I have advanced. For all the Indians brought up to the Spanifh language are far more acute and fenfible than thofe who have fpent their lives in little villages ; and their behaviour more conformable to the dictates of a rational creature. They are men of abilities and fkill, and have divelled theinfelves of many of their errors. Whence they are called Ladinos, i. e. knowing men ; and if they retain any of the culpable praftices of the former, it is from the infeftion of intercourfe, or from a miflaken notion that they fhould keep them up as tranfmitted to them from their anceflors. Among thefe are chiedy diflinguifhed the barber-furgeons, who bleed with fuch dexte- X 2 rity, t 524 ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. rity, that in the opinion of Monf. de Juffieu and Monf. Seniergues, furgeons to the Fi^ench academifts, they equal the mofl famous in Europe ; and their iuteicourfe with perfons of a liberal education enlightens their underilanding, fo that they diftinguifh themfelves to great advantage among their countrymen. It feems to me unqueftionable, that if in villages care was taken to inftruft the Indians in Spanilh, conformable to the laws of the Indies, befides other acquirements, thfe people would have the benefit of converfing more frequently with the Spaniards, which would greatly improve their reafon, and give them a knowledge of many things for which they have no word in their language. Accordingly it is obferved that the Cholos (a name given to the Indian boys) becoming acquainted with the Spanilh language, improve fo much in knowledge, that they look on their countrymen as lavages, and take upon themfelves the appellation of Ladinos. I am very far from imagining that the Spanifli language itfelf has the virtue of im- proving the intellects of the Indians ; but only, that rational converfation with the Spaniards would lead them to a knowledge of many things : and confequently they might be brought to a greater purity of faith and pradlice. Whereas the converfation among themfelves muft be very low and confined : and what they have with the Spanilh traders who underftand their language, turns wholly on traffick. But if they underftood the Spanifli, they would daily receive new lights by converfing with travellers whom they attend, as well as from the inhabitants of the cities, their mailers, the priefts, the corregidors, and others ; and thus become more induftrious and tra6l- able, and acquainted with the nature of things of which before they had not fo much as an idea. Are not the differences and advantages evident among ourfelves, betwixt a young man whofe flock of learning is his natural language, and him who is acquainted with others ? What a fuperiority of knowledge, difcernment, and facility in the latter ! Hence we may form fpme idea of the abjecSl Hate of the human mind among rude country people, who cannot exchange a word with a ftranger, and never flir out of their village : whereas, when any one happens to go to a neighbouring town, he returns home with enlarged knowledge, and entertains all the village with his narratives : but if he had not underftood the language fpoken in it, he would have been little the better, nor able to relate the ftrange things he faw and heard. This is the very cafe of the Indians ; and I am of opinion, that to teach them the Spanifh tongue would be the beft means of improving their reafon, and confequently of making them better members of fociety : and that my fuperiors thought fo, appears from the ordinances re- lating to America. The Indians in general are robuft, and of a good conllitution. And though the venereal diftemper is fo common in this country, it is feldom known among them : the principal caufe of which unqueftionably lies in the quality of the juices of their body not being fufceptible of the venom of this diftemper. Many however attribute it to a quality in the chicha, their common drink. The difeafe which makes the greateit havock among them is the fmall-pox : which is fo fatal that few efcape it. Accord- ingly it is looked upon in this country as a peftilence. This diftemper is not continual as in other nations, feven or eight years, or more, palling without its being heard of; but when it prevails, towns and villages are foon thinned of tlicir inhabitants. This defolation is owing partly to the malignity of the difeafe, and partly to the want of phyficians and nurfes. Accordingly, on being feized with this diftemper, they imme- diately fend for the prieft to confefs ; and die for want of remedy and relief. The like happens in all other dillempers ; and were they frequent, would be equally fatal, 4 thefe ULLOA S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. 525 thefe poor creatures dying for want of proper treatment and afliftance ; as is evident from the Creoles, who are alfo attacked by the diftempers of the country. Some of the latter indeed die as well as of the former ; but many more recover, having atten- dance and a proper diet : whereas the Indians are in want of every thing. What their houfes and apparel are, has already been feen. Their bed is the fame in health and ficknefs ; and all the change in their food is in the manner of taking it, not in the fpecies itfelf : for, however ill they may be, all they have is a fmall draught of machca diflblved in chicha ; fo that, if any one does get the better of a diftemper, it is more owing to the happinefs of his conflitution, than any relief he receives. They are alfo fubjeft to the bicho, or mal del valle ; but this is foon cured. Some- times, though feldom, they are alfo feized with tabardillos, or fpotted fevers, for which they have an expeditious but fmgular cure. They lay the patient near the fire, on the two fheep-lkins which compofe his bed ; and dole by him place a jug of chicha. The heat of the fever, and that of the fire increafing the other, caufe in him fuch a thirft, that he is inceffantly drinking ; whereby the eruptions are augmented, and the next morning he is either in a fair way of recovery, or fo bad as to be carried off in a day or two. They who either efcape, or recover from, thefe diftempers, reach to an advanced age ; and both fexes afford many inftances of remarkable longevity. I myfelf have known feveral, who, at the age of a hundred, were ftill robuft and aftive ; which unqueftionably muft, in fome meafure, be attributed to the conftant famenefs and fimplicity of their food. But I muft obferve, that, befides the different kinds already mentioned, they alfo eat a great deal of fait with agi, gathering the pods of it ; and having put fome fait in the mouth, they bite the agi, and afterwards eat fome machca or camcha : and thus they continue taking o;ie after another, till they are fatisfied. They are fo fond of fait in this manner of eating it, that they prefer a pod or two of agi with fome fait to any other food. After this account of the genius, cuftoms, and qualities of the Indians, it will not be improper to fpeak a word or two of their diverfions and occupations, premifmg, that this account does not extend to fuch Indians as live in cities and towns, or that occupy any public office or trade, they being looked upon as ufeful to the public, and . live independently. Others in the kingdom of Quito are employed in the manufadories, f the plantations, or in breeding of cattle. In order to this, the villages are annually to furnilh thofe places with a number of Indians, to whom their mafter pays wages as i fettled by the equity of the King : and at the end of the year they return to their I villages, and are replaced by others. This repartition is called Mita. And though thefe alterations fhould by order take place in the manufactories, yet it is not fo : for being occupations of which none are capable but fuch as have been properly trained up, the Indian families, which are admitted, fettle there, and the fons are inftrufted in weaving, from one generation to another. The earnings of thefe are larger than thofe of the other Indians, as their trade requires greater fkill and capacity. Befides the yearly wages paid them by thofe whom they ferve, they have alfo a quantity of land, and cattle given them to improve. They live in cottages built near the manfion- houfe, fo that every one of thefe forms a kind of village ; fome of which confift of above an hundred and fifty families. CHAP, 546 ULLOA's VOYAGfE TO SOUTH aMEUICA. CHAP. VII. — -^« hyiorical Account of the mojl remarkable Mountains and Faramos, or Deferts, in the Cordilleras of the Andes ; the Rivers lubicb have their Sources in thefe Mountains, and the Methods of paj/ing them. I NOW come to the mofl remarkable paramos, or deferts, of the kingdom of Quito, and the rivers flowing through that country, which, among many other natural curiofities, is pecuHarly remarkable for the difpofition of the ground, and its prodigious mafles of fnow, that exceed all comparifon. It has been before obferved, that all the dependencies of the jurifdiftions of this province are fituated betwixt the two Cordilleras of the Andes ; and that the air is more or lefs cold according to the height of the mountains, and the ground more or lefs arid. Thefe arid trads are called Paramos, or deferts ; for though all the Cor- dilleras are dry or arid, fome of them are much more fo than others ; for the continual fnows and froll render them abfolutely uninhabitable, even by the beafts ; nor is there a fingle plant to be found upon them. Some of thefe mountains, feemingly as it were founded on others, rife to a moil aftonifhing height, and are covered with fnow even to their fummits. The latter we Ihall more particularly treat of, as they are the mofl: remarkable and curious objeds. The paramo of Afuay, formed by the jundlion of the two Cordilleras, is not of this clafs ; for, though remarkable for its exceflive coldnefs and aridity, its height does not exceed that of the Cordilleras in general, and is much lower than that of Pichincha and Corazon. Its height is the degree of the climate, where a continual congelation or freezing commences ; and as the mountains exceed this height, fo are they perpe- tually covered with ice and fnow ; that from a determined point above Carabucu for inft;ance, or the furface of the fea, the congelation is found at the fame height in all the mountains. From barometrical experiments made at Pucaguayco, on the mounfain Cotopaxi, the height of the mercury was 1 6 inches 5-^ lines ; whence we determined the height of that place to be 102; toifes above the plain of Carabucu, and that of the latter above the fuperficies of the fea about 1268. Thus the height of Pucaguayco, above the furface of the fea, is 2291 toifes. The fignal which we placed on this mountain was thirty or forty toifes above the ice, or point of continual congelation ; and the perpendicular height from the commencement of this point to the fummit of the mountain, we found, from fome geometrical obfervations made for that purpofe, to be about 880 toifes. Thus .the fummit of Cotopaxi is elevated 3126 toifes above the furface of the fea, or fomething above three geographical miles ; and 639 toifes higher than the top of Pichincha. Thefe are mountains I intend to fpeak of; and the height of them all, confidering the greatnefs of it, may be faid to be nearly equal. In thefe Cordilleras, the mofl; fouthern mountain is that of Mecas, more properly called Sanguay, though in this country better known by the former, lying in the jurif- didion of the fame name. It is of a prodigious height, and the far greatefl; part of the whole furface covered with fnow. From its fummit iflues a continual fire, attended with explofions, which are plainly heard atPintac, a village belonging to the jurifdiftion of Quito, and near forty leagues difl:ant from the mountain ; and, when the wind is fair, the noife is heard even at Quito itfelf. The country adjacent to this volcano is totally barren, . being covered with cinders ejedted by it. In tl^is Pacamo, the river Sangay has its fource. This river cannot be faid to be fmall, but after its junftion with another, called the Upano, forms the Payra, a large river which difcharges itfelf into the Maranon. In ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 537 In the fame eaflern Cordillera, about fix leagues weft of the town of Riobamba, is a very high mountain, with two crefts, and both of them covered with fnow ; that on the north is called CoUanes, and that on the fouth Altar ; but the fpace covered with fnow is much lefs than that of Sangay and others of this clafs, its height being pro- portionally lefs. North of the fame town, and about feven leagues diftant, is the mountain of Tun- guragua, of a conical figure, and equally fteep on all fides. The ground, at its bafis, is fomething lower than that of the Cordillera, efpecially on the north fide, where it feems to rife from the plain on which the villages are fituated. On this fide, in a fmall plain betwixt its Ikirts and the Cordillera, has been built the village of Bannos, fo called from its hot medicinal baths, to which there is a great refort from all parts of this jurifdiction. South of Cuenca, and not far from another village, called Bannos alfo, belonging to this jurifdidion, are other hot waters on the fummit of an eminence, gufliing out through feveral apertures of four or five inches diameter, and of a heat which hardens eggs fooner than water boiling over the fire. Thefe feveral ftreams unite and form a rivulet, the ftones and banks of which are tinged with yellow, and the water is of a brackifh tafte. The upper part of this fmall eminence is full of crevices, through which ilTues a continual fmoke : a fufScient indication of its contain- ing great quantities of fulphurous and nitrous fubftances. North of Riobamba, inclining fome degrees to the weft, is the mountain of Chim- borazo, by the fide of which hes the road from Quito to Guayaquil. At firft great numbers of the Spaniards periflied in pafTmg the vaft and dangerous deferts on its decli- vity ; but being at prefent better acquainted with them, and inured to the climate, fuch misfortunes are feldoni heard of; efpecially as very few take this road, unlefs there is the greateft appearance of two or three days of calm and ferene weather. North, of this mountain ftands that of Carguayrafo, which has been already taken notice of. North of Latacunga, and about five leagues diftant from it, is Cotopaxi, which, towards the north-welt and fouth, extends itfelf beyond all the others ; and which, as I have before obferved, became a volcano at the time of the Spaniards firft arrival in this country. In 1743, anew eruption happened, having been fome days preceded by a continual rumbling in its bowels. An aperture was made in its fummit, and three about the fame height near the middle of its declivity, at that time buried under prodigious maffes of fnow. The igniied fubftances ejected on that occafion, mixed with a prodigious quantity of ice and fnow, melting amidft the flames, were carried down with fuch aftonifliing rapidity, that in an inftant the plain, from Callo to Lata- cunga, was overflowed ; and, befides its ravages in bearing down houfes of the Indians and other poor inhabitants, great numbers of people loft their lives. The river of Latacunga was the channel of this terrible flood, till, being too fmall for receiving fuch a prodigious current, it overflowed the adjacent country like a vaft lake near the town, and carried away all the buildings within its reach. The inhabitants retired to a fpot of higher ground behind their town, of which thofe parts which ftood within the limits of the current were totally deftroyed. The dread of ftill greater devaftations did not fubfide in three days, during which the volcano ejected cinders, while torrents of melted ice and fnow poured down its fides. The fire lafted feveral days, and was accompanied with terrible roarings of the wind rufliing through the volcano, and greatly exceeded the great rumblings before heard in its bowels. At laft all was quiet, neither fire nor fmoke were feen, nor was there any noife to be heard fill the following year, 1744; when, in the month of May, the flames increafed, and forced their paflTage 528 ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. paffage through feveral other parts on the fides of the mountain ; fo that in clear nights, the flames being refledled by the tranfparent ice, formed a very grand and beautiful illumination. November the 30th, it ejected fuch prodigious quantities of fire and ignited fubftances, that an inundation equal to the former foon enfued ; fo that the inhabitants of Latacunga gave themfelves over for loft. And we ought to acknowledge the Divine proteflion, that it did not rage when we vifited it, having occafion twice to continue fome time on its declivity, as we have already Ihewn in the third chapter of the fifth book. Five leagues to the weft of this mountain ftands that of Illinifa, whofe fummit is alfo bifid, and conftantly covered with fnow. From it feveral rivulets derive their fource ; of which thofe flowing from the northern declivity continue that direftion : as thofe from the fouthern fide alfp run fouthward. The latter pay their tribute to the northern ocean, through the large river of the Amazons ; while the former difcharge themfelves into the South Sea, by the river of Emeralds. North of Cotopaxi is another fnowy mountain called Chinculagua, fomething lefs than the former, though even that is not to be compared to the others. The mountain of Cayamburo, which is one of the firft magnitude, lies north, fome degrees eafterly, from Quito, at the diftance of ^out eleven leagues from that city. There is neither appearance nor tradition of its having ever been a volcano. Several rivers iflue from it, of which thofe from the weft and north run either into the river of Emeralds or that of Mira, but all fall into the South Sea ; while thefe from the eaft dif- charge themfelves into the river of the Amazons. Befides the torrents which precipitate themfelves from the fiio\vy mountains, others have their fource in the lower parts of the Cordilleras, and at their conflux form very large and noble rivers, which either pay the tribute to the north or fouth feas, as we (hall hereafter obferve. All the fprings iffuing from the mountains in the neighbourhood of Cuenca, on the weft and foulh fide as far as Talqui, with thofe of the eaftern Cordillera, a^id north- ward as far as the Parama de Burgay, unite at about half a league eaftward of a chapel, called Jadan, under the care of the curate of Paute, where forming a river, and pafling near the village from which it has its name, difcharges itfelf into the river of the Amazons. It is fo deep at Paute as not to be fordable, though very wide there. From the mountains of Afuay, Bueran, and the adjacent hills on the fouth, is formed a very confiderable river, over which are feveral bridges. It is called Cannar, from that town being the only one in its courfe ; which it continues by.Yocon to the bay of Guayaquil. The north parts of the Paramo of Afuay alfo gave rife to many ftreams, which, uniting with others coming from Mount Senegaulap, and the weftern fide of the eaftern Cordillera, form the river Alaufi, which difcharges itfelf into the fame bay. On the higheft part of the Paramo de Tioloma, and near the fignal one ereded on this mountain for forming our feries of triangles, are four lakes, the three neareft it being lefs than the other, which is about half a league in length, and called Coley ; and the others, which are not greatly inferior, Pichabinnac, Pubillu, and Madallan. From thefe is formed the river Cebadas, which runs near the village of that name, and is joined by another arifing from the fprings on the Paramo of Lalangufo, and the ftreams from the Colta lake, after which, inclining a little frcmi the north towards the eaft, pafles by Pungala ; and about a league from the village of Puni, is joined by the river Bamba, which has its fource in the Parambo of Sifapongo. Near the town of Cobigies is another, which flows from the mountain of Chimborazo, and which LLLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 529 which, after direfting its courfe northward, till it is in an eafl and well direction with the mountain of Tunguragua, it winds to the eaft, and adds its water to thcfe of the river of the Amazons. At the town of Penipe, it is fo deep and rapid as only to be croffed over a bridge made of bujucos. Alfo before it reaches the town of Los Bannos, it is increafed by the rivers Latacunga and Bate, together with all tlie flreams from both the Cordilleras, thofe from the fouthern fummit of Elenifa, and the fouthern fide of Ruminavi and Cotopaxi. The flreams flowing from the north fummit of Elenifa, I have already mentioned tp run northward ; and with thefe all from the fame Cordillera unite, together with thofe iffuing from the north and weft fides of the mountain Ruminavi, thofe of Pa- fuchua ; and from this junction rifes the river Amaguanna. The two laft mountains Itand north and fouth from each other, in an intermediate fpace of the Cordilleras. From the north fide of Cotopaxi the Paramo of Chinchulagua, which is alfo covered with fnow, and the Cordillera de Guamani, other ftreams have their rife, and from their conflux is formed the river Ichubamba, which, running northward, joins the Amaguanna, a little to the north of Cono-Coto. Afterwards it receives the rivulets ifluing from the eaftern Cordillera, and changes its name to that of Guayllabamba. The waters which have their fource in the weftern part of Cayamburo, and the fouthern part of Moxanda, form another river called Pifque, which firft runs towards the weft, and joining the Guayllabamba, takes the name of Alchipichi, which, a little to the north of St. Antonio, in the jurifdiftion of Quito, is fo broad and rapid, that there is no pafllng it but in a tarabita, which we fliall prefently defcribe. From hence it continues its courfe northwards, and at laft falls into the river of Emeralds. The mountain of Majanda ftands in the interval between the Cordilleras ; and though it has only one fide as it were, it is divided into two fummits, one eaftward and the other weftward ; and from both thefe runs a fmall Cordillera, which, afterwards join- ing, inclofe this valley. From the fide of the mountain ifllie two large torrents, which meet in the lake of St. Pablo : from whence flows a river, which, being joined by others from the fprings of the weftern Cordillera, form one ftream, and after being increafed by another brook from the heights of Oezillo, give rife to the liver which waflies the town of St. Miguel de Ibarra ; after which it takes the name of Mira, and difcharges itfelf into the South Sea, a little to the north of the river of Emeralds. When the rivers are too deep to be forded, bridges are rnade at the moft frequented places. Of thefe there are two kinds befides thofe of ftone, which are very few : the former of wood, which are the moft common ; and the latter of bujucos. With re- gard to the firft, they chcofe a place where the river is very narrow, and has on each fide high rocks. They confift of only four long beams laid clofe together over the precipice, and form a path about a yard and a half in breadth, being juft fuiBcient for a man to pafs over on horfeback ; and cuftom has rendered thefe bridges fo natural to them, that they pafs them without any apprehenfion. The fecond, or thofe formed of bujucos, are only ufed where the breadth of the river will not admit of any beams to be laid acrofs. In the conftruftion of thefe, feveral bujucos are twifted together, fo as to form a kind of large cable of the length required. Six of thefe are carried from one fide of the river to the other, two of which are confiderably higher than the other four. On the latter are laid fticks in a tranfverfe direclion, and, over thefe, branches of trees, as a flooring ; the former are faftened to the four which form the bridge, and by that means ferve as rails for the fecurity of the paflenger, who would otherwife be in no fmall danger from the continual ofcillation. The bejuco bridges in this country are VOL. -XIV. 1 y only 53° ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. only for men, the mules fwim over the rivers ; in order to which, when their loading is taken off, they are drove into the water near half a league above the bridge, that they may reach the oppofite fhore near it, the rapidity of the ftream carrying them fo great a diftance. In the mean time, the Indians carry over the loadmg on their fhoul- ders. On fome rivers of Peru there are bejuco bridges fo large, that droves of loaded mules pafs over them ; particularly the river Apurimac, which is the thoroughfare of all the commerce carried on between Lima, Cufco, La Plata, and other parts to the fouthward. Sonie rivers, inftead of a bejuco bridge, are paffed by means of a tarabita ; as is the cafe with regard to that of Alchipichi. This machine ferves not only to carry over perfons and loads, but alfo the beads themfelves ; the rapidity of the ftream, and the monftrous ftones continually rolling along it, rendering it impracticable for them to fwim over. The tarabita is only a fmgle rope made of bejuco, or throngs of an ox's hide, and confifting of feveral ftrands, and about fix or c^ght inches in thicknefs. This rope is extended from one fide of the river to the other, faftened on each bank to ftrong ports. On one fide is a kind of wheel, or winch, to ftraighten or flacken the taa-abita to the degree required. From the tarabita hangs a kind of leathern hammock capa- ble of holding a man ; and is fufpended by a clue at each end. A rope is alfo faftened to either clue, and extended to each fide of the river, for drawing the hammock to the fide intended. A pufti at its firft fetting off fends it quickly to the other fide. For carrying over the mules, two tarabitas are necelfary, one for each fide of the river, and the ropes are much thicker and flacker. On this rope is only one clue, which is of wood, and by which the beaft is fufpended, being fecured with girts round the belly, neck, and legs. When this is performed, the creature is ftioved off, and immediately landed on the oppofite fide. Such as are accuftomed to be carried over in this manner, never make the leaft motion, and even come of themfelves to have the girts faftened round them ; but it is with great difficulty they are firft brought to fuffer the girts to be put round their bodies, and when they find themfelves fufpended, kick and fling, during their fliort paflage, in a moft terrible manner. The river of Alchipichi may well excite terror in a young traveller, being between thirty and forty fathoms from fliore to fliore ; and its perpendicular height, above the furface of the water, twenty-five fathoms. The roads of this country are fuitable to the bridges ; for though there are large plains between Quito and the river Bamba, and the greateft part of the road between the river Bamba and Alaufi, and even to the north of that city, lies along the moun- tains, yet thefe are interrupted by fruitful breaches, the acclivities and declivities of which are not only of a great length and very troublefome, but alfo dangerous. In fome places there is a necefllty for travelling along trafts on the declivities of moun- tains, which are fometimes fo narrow as hardly to allow room for the feet of the beaft ; part of its body, and that of the rider, being perpendicular over a torrent fifty or fixty fathoms beneath the road. So that certainly nothing but abfolute necefliry, there being no other road, and long cuftom, can get the better of that horror which muft afieft the perfon at the fight of fuch imminent danger ; and there are too many inftances of travellers lofing their eft'ccts, if not Hves, their whole dependance being on the fure foot of the mule. This danger is indeed, in fome meafure, compenfated by the fecurity of the roads ; fo that we fee here what none of the civilized nations can boaft of, namely, fingle perfons travelling, unarmed, with a great charge of gold and filver, but equally fafe as if ftrongly guarded. If the traveller happens to be fatigued in '^~&ya/a^^-y ^y^ i::^-^!%2&/ at' ^^mi^^ uyi4xmii^^97zy .=.^/m ^ im^'T^ca.^ ■ Xintdiin:JUilijhai'hf' Zcnama/i.Sayr.Tiffj. iJrT>u i: Jircim .luztrKcstir- ScTf Mhf 2jSit. ulloa's voyage to south ameiuca. 531 in a defert, he lays him down, and fleeps without the leafl apprehenlion of danger. Or if he takes up his lodgings in a tainbo, or inn, he fleeps with the fame fecurity, though the doors are always open : nor is he ever molefted on the road. This is a con- venience fo favourable to commerce and intercourfe, that it were greatly to be wifhed the fame fecurity could be eftabllfhed in the other parts of the world. CHAP. VIII. — Conthiuation of the Account of the Paramos, or Deferts ; with an Account of the Beafis, Birds, and other Particulars of this Province. TO conclude my obfervations on the Paramos, which it was neceifary to interrupt, in order to give a Ihort account of the rivers, bridges, and roads, I {hall obferve, that thefe parts not being of a height fufficient to expofe them to an eternal froft, they are covered with a kind of rufli refembling the genilta Hifpanica, but much more foft and flexible. It is about half or three quarters of a yard in height, and, when of its full magnitude, its colour is like that of dried genifta Hifpanica. But where the fnow remains fome time on the ground without melting, none of thefe plants growing in habitable climates are found. There are indeed others, though few, and even thefe never exceed a certain height. Above this trad, nothing is feen but ftones and fand all the way up to the beginning of the ice. In thefe parts, where the above rufli is the principal produft, the foil is as little adapted to cultivation ; but produces a tree, which the inhabitants call Ouinual, the nature of which very well fuits the roughnefs of the climate. It is of middling height, tufted, and the timber ftrong ; its leaf of a long, oval form, thick, and of a deep green colour. Though it bears the fame name as the grain called Quinua, of which we have fpoken elfewhere, and which grows in great plenty, the latter is not, however, the produftion of this tree ; nor has the plant, on which it grows, any thing in common with it. The climate proper for quinua is alfo adapted to the produce of a little plant, which the Indians call Palo de Luz. It is commonly about the height of two feet, confiding of flalks which grow out of the ground, and proceed from the fame root. Thefe flems are ftraight, and fmooth up to the top, from which grow little branches with very fmall leaves. All of th6fe nearly rife to the fame height, except the outer ones, which are of a lefs fize : it is cut clofe to the ground, where it is about three lines in diameter ; and being kindled whilft green, gives a light equal to that of a torch, and, with care taken to fnuff it, lafts till the whole plant is burnt. In the fam.e place grows alfo the achupalla, confifting of feveral flalks, fomething refembling thofe of the fabilla ; and as the new Ihoot up, the moft outward grow old and dry, and form a kind of trunk, with a great number of horizontal leaves, hollow in the middle ; and this, when not very large, is eatable like that of the palraitos. Towards the extremity of the part where the rufli grows, and the cold begins to increafe, is found the vegetable called Puchugchu, with round leaves growing together fo as to reprefent a very fmooth bulb, having nothing in them but the roots : and as thefe increafe, the outward cafe of leaves dilates into the form of a round loaf, ufilally a foot or two in height, and the fame in diameter : on this account, they are alfo called Loaves or Onions. When in their vigour, they are of fo hardy a nature, that a fliamp with a man's foot, or the tread of a mule, makes no impreflion on them ; but when once fully ripe, they are eafily broken. In the middle flate, betwixt the full ftrength of their refiftance and the decay of their roots by age, they have an elaft:ic quality, 3 Y 2 yielding 532 ' ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. yielding with a tremulous motion to the prelTure of the foot, and on its being taken ofE, recover their form. In the places where the puchugchu thrives beft, alfo grows the canchalagua, the virtues of which are well known in Europe. The form of this is like a very thin rufli or ftravv' ; bears no leaves, but has a few fmall feeds at its extremity. It is medicinal, and particularly ufeful as a febrifuge ; its tafte is bitter, which it eafily communicates either by infufion or decoftion. In this country, it is chiefly ufed as a fweetencr of the blood, though thought to be of a hot qualit)-. It grows in great quantities, and is found both among the puchugchu, and in other parts on the heath, where the cold is lefs intenfe. Another plant, not lefs valuable for its virtues, and growing chiefly in thofe dreadful deferls where, either from the feverity of the cold or perpetual fnows, or from the badnefs of the foil, nothing elfe is produced, is found the fo celebrated calnguala ; its height is about fix or eight inches, and naturally fpreads itfelf in thin ftems along the fand, or climbs up the rocks. Thefe branches, in their form, refemble the fibril of the roots of the other plants, being not above two or three lines in their greatefl; thick- nefs, round, and full of little knots, where they bend round like the tendrils of a vine. They have a thin pellicle of a loofe texture, which of itfelf feparates when the plant dries. The mod fmgular virtue of this plant is for all kinds of impoflihumes, internal or external, which it difcufles and heals in a very little time. The manner of admini- ftering it is by decoftion, of which a very little ferves ; or, after bruifing it, to infufe it in wine, and take it fading for three or four days, and no longer, its good eft'eds in that time being ufually confpicuous ; and being extremely hot, it might prove perni- cious, if taken in greater quantity than abfolutely necelVary ; for which reafon only, three or four pieces, each about an inch and a half in length, are ufed for the infufion, and with fuch fort of wine as will befl; correft its bitternefs. Though this excellent herb grows in moft of thofe frozen deferts, yet the bell is that in the fouthern province of Peru. The leaves are very fmall, and the few it bears grow contiguous to the flem. The paramos, or barren heaths, likewife yield the contrayorva, which makes a part of the materia medica in Europe, and is confidered as an excellent alexipharmic. This is alfo a creeping plant, with a leaf, of about three or four inches in length, and a little more than one in breadth, thick, the back part of it exceeding foft to the touch, and of a deep green. The other fide is alfo fmooth, but of a light green. On its ftem grows a large blofl["om, confiding of many flowers inclining to a violet colour : but neither thefe nor the other flowers, which grow in great abundance in thefe coun- tries, according to its feveral climates, are much efteemed ; fo that, when wanted, the readieft way is to fend and have them cut from the plant. Though the feverity of the air on the deferts is fuch, that all animals cannot live there, yet they afford many beafl:s of venery, which feed on the draw or rufh peculiar to thofe parts ; and fome of thefe creatures are met with on the highed mountains, where the cold is intolerable to the human fpecies. Among the rufhes are bred great numbers of rabbits, and fome foxep, both which, in their appearance and qualities, refemble thofe of Carthagena and other parts of the Indies. The only birds knovi'n in thofe rigorous places are partridges, condors, and zumba- dores or hummers. The partridges difler lomething from thofe of Europe ; they nearly refemble the quail, and are very fcarce. The condor is the larged bird in thefe parts of the world ; its colour and appearance refemble thofe of the galinazos, and fometimes it foars from the highed mountains fo as ULLOA S VOYAGE TC SOUTH AMEIIICA. 533 a^ to be alinoft out of fight : and by its being feldom feen in low places, a fubtile air feems bed to agree with it ; though fome, which have been tamed when young, live in the villages and plantations. Like the galinazos, they are extremely carnivorous, and are known frequently to feize and fly away with lambs that feed on the heaths : of this I happened to fee an inllance, in my way down from the fignal of Lalangufo to- ward the plantation of Pul, lying near the bottom of thofe mountains. Obferving, on a hill adjoining to that where I was, a flock of flieep in great confufion, I faw one of thefe condors flying upwards from it with a lamb betwixt its claws ; and, when at fome height, dropt it ; then, following it, took it up, and let it fall a fecond time, when it winged its way out of fight, for fear of the Indians, who, at the cries of the boys and barkings of the dogs, were running towards the place. In fome deferts this bird is common ; and, as it preys on the flocks, the Indians are not wanting in their endeavours to catch them. One of the ways is, to kill a cow, or other beaft, when of no further ufe, and to rub the flefti with the juice of fome potent herbs, which they afterwards carry away ; for otherwife the bird, fenfible of them by natural inftincl, would not touch the flefh. Further, to take off' the fmell, they bury the flefli till it becomes putrid, and then expofe it ; when the condors, allured by the fmell of the carcafe, haften and greedily feed on it, till the herbs operate fo as to ren- der them quite fenfelefs and incapable of motion : the Indians feize the opportunity, and defliroy them. They likewife catch them with fprings laid near fome flelh : but fuch is the force of this bird, that, with a fl:roke of its wing, it fometimes knocks down the man who approaches it. Their wing alfo ferves them as a fliield, by which they ward off blows, without receiving any hurt. The zumbador, or hummer, is a night bird, peculiar to the mountainous deferts ; and they are feldom feen, though frequently heard, both by the finging, and a ftrange humming made in the air by the rapidity of their flight, and which may be heard at the diflance of fifty toifes ; and when near, is louder than that of a rocket. Their finging may indeed be called a kind of cry, refembling that of night-birds. In moonlight nights, when they more frequently make their appearance, we have often watched to fee their fize and the celerity of their motion ; and though they pafled very near us, we never M'ere able to form any idea of their magnitude ; all that we could fee, was a white line which they formed in their flight through the air ; and this was plainly per- ceivable, when at no great difl:ance. We promifed the Indians a reward if they woulcj procure us one ; but all they could do was to procure a young one, fctrce fledged, though it was then of the fize of a partridge, and all over fpeckled with dark and light brown ; the bill was proportionate and fl:rait ; the aperture of the noftrils much larger than ufual, the tail fmall, and the wings of a proper fize for the body. According to our Indians, it is with the noftriis that it makes fuch a loud humming. This may, in fome meafure, contribute to it ; but the effefl: feem.s much too great for. fuch an inflrru- ment ; efpecially as at the time of the humming it alfo ufes its voice. Among the valleys and plains formed by thefe mountains, are m.any marfliy places, occafioned by the great variety of fmall flreams of water ; and in thefe breed great numbers of a bird called Canclon, a name perfeclly expreflive of its manner of fing- ing. It very much refembles the bandurria, though the fpecies be different : it exceeds the bignefs of a large goofe, has a long thick neck, and a head fomething refembling that bird. The bill is ftraight and thick, and its legs and feet thick and ftrong. The outward feathers of the wing are of a dark brown, thofe of the infide of a pure white ; but the other parts of the body fpotted. At the meeting of the wings they have two fpurs, projedling to the length of an inch and a half, as their defence. The male and female are infeparable, whether flying, or on the ground, v/here they moflily keep them- felves, 534 ulloa's voyage to south America. felves, never taking flight except acrofs a valley, or when purfued. The flefh eats very well, after being kept three or four days to leiTen its natural toughnefs. Thelb birds are alfo found in places lefs cold than the mountainous deferts ; but here, indeed, they are fomething different, having on the forehead a kind of cartilaginous horn ; but both thefe and the other fpecies have a creft on their head. The gardens of all kinds in the villages are much frequented by a bird very renurk- able both for its fmallnefs and the vivid colours of its feathers. It is generallv called Picaflores, or flower-pecker, from its hovering over them, and fucking their juices without lacerating or fo much as difordering them. Its proper name is Quiude, though it is alfo known by thofe of Rabilargo and Sifongero, and in England by that of humming-bird. Its whole body, with its plumage, does not exceed the bignefs of a middle-fized nutmeg ; the tail is ufually near three times the length of the whole body, yet has but few feathers ; its neck is fliort ; the head proportioned, with a very briflc eye ; the bill long and flender, white at the beginning and black at the end : the wings are alfo long and narrow. Mofl of the body is green, fpotted with yellow and blue. Some are higher coloured than others ; and all are variegated with ftreaks, as it were, of gold. Of this bird, alfo, there are various fpecies, diftinguiftied by their fize and colours. This is thought to be the fmallefl of all known birds ; the female lavs but two eggs at a time, and thofe no bigger than peas. They build in trees, and the coarfefl; materials of their neflis are the fined ftraws they can pick up. In the parts of this country, which are neither taken up by mountains nor forefts, only tame animals are met with ; whence it is probable, that formerly its native fpecies were but very few ; moft of thefe having been introduced by the Spaniards, except the llama, to which the Indians added the name of runa, to denote an Indian fheep, that beafh be- ing now underfloodby the runa-llama ; though, properly, llama is a general name im- porting beaft, in oppofition to the human fpecies. This animal, in feveral particulars, refembles the camel : as in the Ihape of its neck, head, and iome other parts ; but has no bunch, and is much fmaller ; cloven-footed, and different in colour : for though moft of them are brown, fome are white, others black, and others of different colours : its pace refembles that of a camel, and its height equal to that of an afs betwixt an year and two old. The Indians ufe them as beafts of carriage ; and they anfwer very well for any . load under a hundred weight. They chiefly abound in the jurifdidion of Riobamba, there bemg fcarce an Indian who has not one for carrying on his little traffick from one village to another. Anciently the Indians ufed to eat the fiefli of them, and itill continue to make that ufe of thofe which are paft labour. They fay there is no difference be- twixt it and mutton, except that the former -is fomething fweeter ; it is a very docile creature, and eafily kept. Its whole defence is, to ejed from its noftrils fome vifcofi- ties, which is faid to give the itch to any on which they fall ; fo that the Indians, who firmly believe this, are very cautious of provoking the llama. In thefouthern provinces of Peru, namely, in Cufco, La Paz, La Plata, and the adja- cent parts, are two other animals, not very different from the llama : thefe are the vicuna and the guanaco ; the only difference between them being, that the vicuna is fomething fmaller, its wool fhorter and finer, and brown all over the body, except the belly, which is whitifli. The guanaco, on the contrary, is much larger, its wool long and harfh ; but the Ihape of both is pretty near alike. Thefe laff are of great fervice in the mines, carrying metals in fuch rugged roads as viould be imprafticable to any other beaft. In the houfes is bred a creature called chucha ; but in the other fouthern provinces it is known by the Indian name of muca-muca ; it refembles a rat, but confiderably big- ger, with a long fnout, not unlike that of a hog ; the feet and tail are exadly the lame I as ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 535 as thofe of a rat, but the hair is longer and black. In the lower part of its belly, from the beginning of the ftomach to the natural orifice of the fex, runs a fort of bag, forme^ of two membranous fkins, which growing from the lower ribs, and joining in the mid- dle, follow the conformation of the belly, which they inclofe : in the middle of it is an aperture extending about two-thirds of its length, and which the creature opens and fhuts at pleafure by means of mufcles, doubtlefs formed by nature for this purpofe. After bringing forth her young, flie depofits them in this bag, and carries them as a fecond pregnancy till they are fit for weaning ; (he then relaxes the mufcles, and the young come out as a fecond brood. Monfieur de JulTieu and M. Seniergues, when at Quito, made an experiment, at which Don George Juan and I were both prefent. The dam had been dead three days, and began to fmell very difagreeably ; the orifice of the bag remained flill fliut, but the young ones we found full of life within, each with a teat in his mouth, irom which, at the time we took them oft', fome fmall drops of milk came out. The male I never faw : but was told that it was of the fame bignefs and fhape as the female, except the bag ; the tefticles of this creature are of an enormous difproportion, being of the fize of a hen's egg. It is a very fierce enemy to all tame birds, and does a great deal of damage in the maize fields. The Indians eat the flefh, and fay it is not at all difagreeable : but few Europeans have much veneration for their tafle or cookery. CHAP. IX. — Fh(£nomena obferved in the mountainous Deferts and other Parts of this Province. Hunting Matches. Dexterity of the American Horfes. TO the before-mentioned particulars of the mountainous deferts, I fhall fubjoin the phenomena feen there, as fubjects equally meriting the curiofity of a rational reader. At firft we were greatly furprifed with two, on account of their novelty ; but frequent ob- fervations rendered them familiar. One we faw in Pambamarca on our firft afcent thither ; it was a triple circular iris. At break of day the whole mountain was encom- pafled with very thick clouds, which the rifmg of the fun difperfed fo far as to leave only fome vapours of a tenuity not cognizable by the fight: on the oppofite fide to that where the fun rofe, and about ten toifes diftant from the place where we were flanding, we faw, as in a looking-glafs, the image of each of us, the head being as it were the centre of three concentric iris's ; the lafl or mofl external colours of one touched the firft of the following ; and at fome diftance from them all, was a fourth arch entirely white. Thefe were perpendicular to the horizon ; and as the perfon moved, the phenomenon moved alfo in the fame difpofition and order. But what was mofl remarkable, though we were fix or feven together, every one faw the phenomenon with regard himfelf, and not that relating to others. The diameter of the arches gradually altered with the afcent of the fun above the horizon ; and the pheno- menon itfelf, after continuing a long time, infenfibly vanillied. In the beginning, the diameter of the inward iris, taken from its laft colour, was about five degrees and a half, and that of the white arch, which circumfcribed the others, not lefs than fixty-feven degrees. At the beginning of the phenomenon, the arches feemed of an oval or ellipti- tical figure, like the difk of the fun, and afterwards became perfectly circular. Each of the leaft was of a red colour, bordered with an orange, and the laft followed by a bright yellow, which degenerated into a ftraw colour ; and this turned to a green. But in all, the external colour remained red. On the mountains we alfo had frequently the pleafure of feeing arches formed by the light of the moon ; particularly one on the 4th of April 1738, about eight at night, on the 53^ ulloa's voyage to solih amekica, the plain of Turubaiiiba. But the moft fingular was one fcen by Don George Juan, on the mountain of Quinoa-loma, on the 2 2d of May 1739, at eight at night. Thefe arches were entirely white, without the mixture of any other colour, and formed along the Hope or fide of a mountain. That which Don George Juan faw confifted of three arches, touching in the fame point : the diameter of the inner arch was fixty degrees ; and the breadth of the white mark, or delineation, took up a fpace of five degrees; the two others were, in every refpeft, of the fame dimen(ions. The atmofphere, and the exhalations from the foil, feem more adapted thaft in any other place for kindling the vapours ; meteors being here more frequent, and often very large, lafl: longer, and are nearer the earth, than the like phenomena feen in other parts. One of thefe inflammations, of a very extraordinary largenefs, was feen at Quito whilft we were there. I cannot exactly determine the date of its appearance, the paper on which I had wrote an account of it being loft, when I was taken by the Englifli : but the particulars, which I remember, are as follow : About nine at night, a globe of fire appeared to rife from the fide of Mount Pichin- cha ; and fo large, that it fpread a light all over the part of the city facing that moun- tain. The houfe where I lodged looking that way, I was furprized with an extraordi- nary light darting through the crevices of the window fliutters. On this appearance, and the buftle of the people in the ftreets, I haftened to the window, and came time enough to fee it in the middle of its career, which continued from weft to fouth, till I loft fight of it, being intercepted by the mountain of Panecillo, which lies in that quar- ter. It was round, and its apparent diameter about a foot. I faid that it feemed to rife from the fides of Pichincha : for to judge from its courfe, it was behind that mountain where this congeries of inflammable matter was kindled. In the firft half of its vifible courfe, it emitted a prodigious effulgency, then gradually began to grow dim, fo that at its occultation behind the Panecillo, its light was very faint. I ftiail conclude this chapter with an account of the manner of hunting, which is the only diverfion in the country, and in which they paflionately delight. Indeed the moft remarkable circumftance in it is the ardour and intrepidity of the hunters ; and w hich a ftranger, at firft, will naturally confider as mere rafhnefs, till he fees perfons of the greateft prudence, after having made one fingle trial, join in thefe parties, trufting en- tirely to their horfes ; fo that it is rather to be termed a dextrous and manly exercife, and proves the fuperiority both of the riders and horfes to the moft celebrated in Europe ; and that the boafted fleetnefs of the latter is dullnefs, when compared to the celerity' with which thofe of America run over mountains and precipices. The hunting is performed by a great number of people, who are divided into two clafles, one on horfeback, the other on foot, who are generally Indians. The bufinefs of the latter is, to roufe the beaft, and that of the others, to hunt it. They ail, at break of day, repair to the place appointed, which is generally on the fummit of the paramos. Every one brings his greyhound ; and the horfemen place themfelves on the higheft peaks, whilft thofe on foot range about the breaches, making a hideous noife in order to ftart the deer. Thus the company extend themfelves three or four leagues, or more, according to their numbers. On the ftarting of any game, the horfe which firft perceives it fets off; and the rider, being unable to guide or ftop him, purfues the chace fometimes down fuch a fteep flope, that a man on foot, with the greateft care, could hardly keep his legs ; from thence up a dangerous afcent, or alongfide of a mountain, that a perfon, not ufed to this exercife, would think it much fafer to throw himfelf out of the faddle, than commit his life to the precipitate ardour of the horfe. ThuG ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. 537 Thus they conrinue till they come up with the game, or till, after following it four or five leagues, the horfes tire. Thofe in the other ftations, on perceiving one horfe on its fpeed, immediately ftart ; and thus the whole company are foon in motion ; fome haftening to meet the beaft, and others following the chace ; fo that in fuch nmltitudes it is very feldom his good fortune to efcape. The horfes here do not wait for the riders to animate them ; they fet forward immediately on feeing another on full fpeed on a different mountain, or at the fhouts of the huntfmen, or cries of the dogs, though at ever fo great a diftance, or even by obferving in a dog the leafl motion that he fcents the game. One fuch circumftance is fufficient for thefe horfes : and it then becomes prudence in the rider to give him his way, and at the fame time to let him feel the fpur to carry him over the precipices. But, at the fame time, let him be very attentive to keep the faddle ; for on fuch declivities the leaft negled: throws the rider over the horfe's head : the confequence of which, either by the fall, or by being trampled upon, is generally fatal. Thefe horfes are called paramos, being backed and exercifed in run. ning over fuch dangerous places. Their ufual pace is trotting. There is indeed another fpecies called aguiHUas, equally remarkable for their fwiftnefs and fecurity. Though the aguilillas only pace, they equal the longed trot of the others : and fome of them are fo fleet, that no other horfe can match them even at full gallop. I once was mafler of one of this kind ; and which, though none of the racers, often carried me in twenty-nine minutes from Callao to Lima, which is two meafured leagues and a half, though not- withftanding great part of the road was very bad and flony ; and in twenty-eight or twenty-nine minutes brought me back again, without ever taking off the bridle. This I can affert from my own experience. Thefe horfes are very feldom known to gallop or trot ; and it is a very difficult matter even to bring them to it by teaching, though the trotting horfes foon come into pacing. The pace of the aguilillas is by lifting up the fore and hind leg of the fame fide at once ; but inllead of putting the hinder foot in the place where the fore foot was, as is the ufual way of other pacing horfes, they advance it farther, equal to that on the contrary fide, or fomething beyond it ; that thus, in each motion, they advance twice the fpace of the common horfes. Befides, they are very quick in their motions, and remarkably eafy to the rider. Other horfes, not of this breed, are taught the fame manner of pacing, and perform it with eafe and expedition, as thofe in whom it is a natural quality : neither fpecies are handfome, but very gentle and docile ; full of fpirit and intrepidity. CHAP. X. — A Jhort Account of the many Silver and Gold Mines in the Province of Quito ; and the Method of extracting the Metal. THE chief riches of the kingdom of Peru, and the greatefl part of the Spanifh pof- feffions on the continent, being the mines, which fpread their ramifications through the whole extent of thefe countries; that province is juftly accounted the moft valuable where the mines are moft numerous, or at leaft, where the greateft quantity of metal is procured. The fertility of the foil, the exuberant harvefts with which the labourer's toil is rewarded, would lofe much of their advantage, had not the precious contents in the bowels of the earth exercifed the ingenuity of the miner. The fertile paftures which fo richly cover the country, are difregarded, if the ftones upon trial are not found to anfwer the avidity of the artifts : and the plentiful produClions of the earth, which are in reality the moft excellent gifts of nature, for the fupport and comfort of human life, are undervalued and flighted, unlefs the mountains contain rich veins of a fine filver. VOL. XIV. 3 z Thusj 538 ulloa's voyage to south AMERIC.4. Thus, contrary to the nature of things, the name of rich is beftowed on that province where uiofl: mines are worked, though fo entirely deftitute of the other more necefTary products, that the great number of people employed in the mines are under a neceffity of being fupplied from other parts : and thofe provinces, whofe paftures are covered with flocks and herds, whofe fields yield plentiful harvefts, and their trees bend beneath rich fruits, under the fertilizing influence of a benign climate, but deftitute of mines, or forgotten through neglect, are looked upon as poor ; and indeed, except in the plentiful furface of the earth, make no wealthy appearance. This is the cafe here ; and the rea- fon of it is evident : thofe countries are as flaples for fdver and gold, which are taken from the bowels of the earth only to be fent into diftant nations with all poflible dili- gence, their native country being that where they make the leaft flay : and the fame pradlice is obferved to be carried on, no lefs eagerly, throughout every town and village in the Indies : for, as they cannot well do without European goods, the gold and filver of America muft be paid in exchange for them. In a province w-here no mines are worked, the fertility of the foil, and goodnefs of its produds are negledlcd ; for the fcarcity of money reduces them to fuch a low price, that the hulbandman, for want of an incentive to any afliduous induftry, inflead of fow- ing and planting all he could, confults only what he may vend according to the common confumption, befides what is neceflliry for the fupport of his family. And as the whole return of what he receives for his fruits and grain, even when he is fo fortunate as to export any, goes away again in exchange for European goods, the fcarcity of money ftill continues, and he is fo poor as fometimes poflibly to want even neceffaries. It is otherwife in provinces abounding with mines ; for thefe being the objects of the atten- tion and labours of its inhabitants, there is a continual circulation of money. What is carried out, is replaced by that drawn from the mines. Nor are they even in want of European goods, or the produce of the more fertile countries, plenty of traders from all parts reforting to places near the mines, as the original feats of gold and filver. But that province where the richnefs of the mines and of the foil concenter, is doubtlefs preferable to thofe where nature has given only one of thefe advantages. Quito may jufl:ly be claffed among the former, being that province which of all Peru is the moft fertile in grain and fruits ; the moft populous, and epecially in Spaniards ; abounds moft in cattle ; has the moft manufaftures, and excels in them ; and in mines, if not the richeft, yet equal to any of the others, on which nature has poured out thefe her choiceft favours. But it feems as if nature, unwilling to diftinguifli this by an abfolute happinefs, has denied it a fuitable concourfe of people, that it might not at once have a full enjoyment of all the benefits laviftied on it, there being no reafon which can difcul- pate the inhabitants of Quito in the neglect of the mines. For though the number of them difcovered be very great, and afford a very probable conjedture that the Cordil- leras muft contain many more ; yet very few are worked, particularly within thefe jurifdiftions. Thus the riches of the country lie buried, and w^ithout them the fertility of the foil cannot fupply their want ; fo as to fpread through the province an opulence like that obfervable in the other provinces of Peru, where, by the circulation of filver, there is an univerfal appearance of affluence, gaiety, and fplendour. Of the great number of mines within the province of Quito, fome were formerly worked which at prefent are abandoned. The country then was fenfible of its advan- tage ; and the remembrance of the general opulence of thofe times, refulting from the riches taken out of the mines, ftill fubfifts. Not only the capital, but the towns and villages were then very populous : and many of its inhabitants were famous all over Peru for their prodigious wealth. The rich mines within the jurifdidion of Mecas, 1 1 were ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 539 were irrecoverably loft by a revolt of the Indians ; and in procefs of time the very remembrance of their fituation was obliterated. The mines of Zaruma have been abandoned, the art of working the ore being loft, for want of a fufficient number of people to apply themfelves to it : and the fame decline is now feen ail over the province. The fertility, as natural to the climate, ftill continues in all its plenty : but fcarce the fhadow of its former luftre and magnificence remains ; and that enormous wealth, in which it gloried is now no more. For if its products and manufa£lures bring in con- fiderable quantities of filver from Lima and Valles, all is expended on European goods ; fo that, as I obferved, little of that gold and filver, fo common in the more fouthern provinces, is to be feen here. The only part of the province of Quito, which, under this unhappy change, preferves its ancient opulence, is the department within the governm.ent of Popayan, which throughout abounds in gold mines, and great numbers of them are ftill worked. To gratify the curious, I ftiall give an account of the principal, and the manner of working the gold ore ; as it is different from that ufed in the mines of Caxa ; after which, I ihall mention the other mines known within that province. Every part of the jurifdidtion of Popayan abounds in mines of gold ; and though in fome departments more are worked than in others, yet they all yield gold : and new mines are daily difcovered and worked ; which, under all the inclemencies of the air, in fome parts fills its towns with inhabitants. Among the departments belonging to the province of Quito, the richeft in gold are thofe of Call, Buga, Almaguar, and Barba- coas, fome of its mines being always more or lefs worked ; and with this Angular advantage in its gojd, of never being mixed with any heterogeneous body j confequently no mercury is requifite in extra£ting it. The gold mines in thefe parts are not Caxa mines, as thofe of filver and many of gold are ; that is, they are not contained and confined as it were betwixt two natural walls : but the gold is found difperfed and mixed with the earth and gravel ; as fands are found mingled with earths of different fpecies. Thus the whole difficulty confifts in feparating the grains of gold from the earth ; and this is very eafily done, though other- wife it would be impradicable, by running conduits of water. This method is alfo equally neceffary in the Caxa mines, where the filver and gold are intimately united with other bodies, as, after having gone through the operation of the quickfilver, which their quality renders indifpenfable, it is walhed in order to feparate the remaining filth. After the laft operation the amalgama is pure, confifting entirely of quickfilver, and gold or filver, according to the fpecies which has been worked. The manner, throughout the whole jurifdi£lion of Popayan, for extrafting the gold, is, to dig the ore out of the earth, and lay it in a large cocha, or refervoir made for that purpofe ; and when this is filled, water is conveyed into it through a conduit : they then vigoroufly ftir the whole, which foon turns to a mud, and the lighteft parts are conveyed away through another conduit, which ferves as a drain ; and this work is continued till only the moft ponderous parts, as little ftones, fand, and the gold, remain at the bottom. The next part of the progrefs is, to go into the cocha with wooden buckets made for this purpofe, in which they take up the fediment ; then moving them circularly and uniformly, at the fame time changing the waters, the lefs ponderous parts are feparated ; and at laft the gold remains at the bottom of the bucket, clear from all mixture. It is generally found in grains as fmall as thofe of fand ; and for that reafon called oro en polvo ; though fometimes pepitas, or feeds, are found among it, of differ- ent fizes, but generally they run fmall. The water iffuing from this cocha is ftopped in another contrived a little beneath it, and there undergoes a like operation ; in order q z 2 to 54© ulloa's voyage to south a.meiuca. to i'ecure any fmall particles of gold, which, from their extreme fmallnefs might be carried off" by the current of the water being mixed with earth and other fubftances : and laftly, this water is pafled into a third cocha : but the favings here are generally inconfiderable. This is the method praftifed in all the mines belonging to the jurifdidion of Popayan. The labourers are Negro flaves, purchafed by the owners ; and whilfl fome are employed in wafhing, others bring earth ; fo that the wafliers are kept in continual employment. The finenefs of this gold is generally of twenty-two carats ; fometimes more, even to twenty -three ; fometimes indeed it is under, though very feldom below twenty-one. • In the diflrifi: of Choco are many mines of Lavadero, or walh gold, Hke thofe we have juft defcribed. There are alfo fome, where mercury mufl be ufed, the gold being enveloped in other metallic bodies, ftones, and bitumens. Several of the mines have been abandoned on account of the platina ; a fubftance of fuch refiftance, that, when ftruck on an anvil of iteel, it is not eafy to be feparated : nor is it calcinable ; fo that the metal enclofed within this obdurate body, could not be extracted without infinite labour and charge. In fome of thefe mines the gold is found mixed with the metal called tumbaga, or copper, and equal to that of the Eafl ; but its mofl remark- able quality is, that it produces no verdigreafe, nor is corroded by any acids, as com- mon copper is well known to be. The gold taken out of all thefe lavaderos, or mines, in the province of Quito, is partly circulated in it : but after no long flay, like the other gold of thefe countries, goes away to Lima ; yet thefe circulations, however temporary, preferve it from that decay which other parts have felt. A large quantity of this gold is carried to Santa Fe or Carthagena, fo that Quito fees very little of it. In the diftrift of the town of Zaruma, within the jurifdiftion of Loxa, are feveral gold mines worked ; and though of no great finenefs, being only betwixt fixteen and eighteen carats, they are fo rich, that, when refined to twenty carats, they prove more advantageous to the miners than thofe where the gold is naturally of that finenefs, but lefs abundant. Antiently it was ufual to work veins, but the inhabitants are now fo indolent, that mofl of theirt are neglefted. Thefe ores are worked with quickfilver, and all the mines here are Caxa mines. Of the fame kind alfo are other gold mines within the jurifdidlion of the government of Jaen Bracamoros, which, about eighty or a hundred years ago, yielded great quantities of metal. But the Indians of thofe parts, encouraged by the fuccefs of their brethren of Macas, having revolted, the fituation of them was entirely forgotten ; and no care has fince been taken to fearch after them. The gold extracted from thefe mines, though not fo fine as that of Popayan, far exceeded the Zaruma gold. The Indians flill extraft fome fmall quantities, when abfolute neceffity drives them to this refource for paying the tribute. In order to this, they go to fome brook or river, and there wait till it overflows its bank, then wafh the fandstill they have procured a fufficient quantity to anfwer their prefent neceffity ; then they immediately leave oft', not thinking it worth while to fatigue themfelves any longer about it. Several mines difcovered all over this province, have undergone the fame fate. One of thefe was in the jurifdi6lion of the town of Latacunga, near the village of Angamarca ; the owner of which was an inhabitant of the village culled Sanabria. The quantity of metal he procured from it was fo great, that in order to lofe no time, he caufed it to be worked day and night, and had for that purpofe a great number of Negro flaves, who laboured in the night ; and the Indians continued the work in tne day time.- But in the height of his profperity, the mine in a violent (form gave way, and ULLOA S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. 54I and funk fo low, that though frequent fearches have been made after it, the vein could not be found. At laft, in the year 1743, a perfon difcovered it by an accident of the fame nature that had deftroyed it ;" a violent tempeft happened, during which, a torrent of water gufhed out through the former entrance of the mine. The perfon, inter- preting this accident as a providential indication, immediately undertook the working of it ; and it has fully anfwered his expedations. Within the jurifdiftion of this province are many other mines, which appear to have been worked at different times, and to have yielded a great quantity of metal. The nature of the country feems beft adapted to gold mines ; though there are feveral fitVer veins, which appear to be very rich, and accordingly an account of them is entered in the feveral revenue offices, and in the records of the audience of Quito. Some have been lately worked, though with little encouragement ; of this number may be faid to be that of Guacaya, in the jurifdiftion of Zicchos, on the frontiers of Latacunga ; and another likewife of filver, about two leagues from the former. Both were worked fome time, but never beyond the furface of the earth, the undertakers not having a fufficient ftock of their own to work them in form ; and the affiftance they folicited was denied. The mofl celebrated filver mine in all this diftricl:, is that called SarapuUo, about eighteen leagues from the lame town of Zicchos. This alfo was opened, but difcontinued through the inftability of the undertaker, and the want of proper affiftance. In the other jurifdiftion, as well as in that of Latacunga, are all the indications of rich mines, though the number of them difcovered is much lefs. The mountain of Pichincha is, by the inhabitants of Quito, thought to contain immenfe treafures ; and the grains of gold, , found in the fands of the waters which ilVue from it, greatly countenance the opinion ; though there is not the leaft veftige all over the mountain, that formerly any mine was difcovered or worked there. But the latter is no great objection : as the difruptions caufed by ftorms, or procefs of time, are fuch as fometimes might entirely choak them up, and cover them fo as to leave no traces of their exiftence ; and a fuitable diligence and care have not been ufed for the dilcovery of any. Befides this mountain, its whole Cordillera, together with the eaflern chain of Guamani, and many other parts, equally abound with the like appearances of rich mines. In the diftricts of Otabalo, and the town of San Miguel de Ibarra, in the territories of the village of Cayambe, along the fides and eminences of the vaft mountain Cayam- buro, are flill remaining fome monuments in confirmation of the tradition, that, before the conqueft, mines were worked there, which yielded a vaft quantity of metal. Among feveral mountains near the village of Mira, famed for their antient riches, is one called Pachon, from which an inhabitant of that village is certainly known to have collected, a few years ago, a vaft fortune. None of thefe are worked : a particular, nothing ftrange to him who fees how the mines lately difcovered are negledted, though • their quality is fufficiently known. The whole country of Pallaftanga, in the jurifdiftion of the town of Riobamba, is full of mines of gold and filver : and the whole jurifdidlion abounds with theni to luch a degree, that one perfon with whom I was acquainted in that town, and who, by his civilities to us and the French academicians, feemed to have a foul fuitable to his ■ opulence, had entered, on his own account, at the mine office of Quito, eighteen veins of gold and filver, and all of a good quality. The ore of one of thefe veins, by the miners called Negrillos, being afl'ayed at Lima, in 1728, it appeared, from a certificate of Don Juan Antonio de la Mota Torres, that it produced eighty marks of filver per cheft ; a very aftonifliing circumftance, the ufual produce in rich mines being only eight or ■ 1 2 ten 542 ULLOA S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. ten marks per cheft, each chefl containing fifty quintals of ore. This is the cafe of Potofi and Lipes, which, after the expence of carrying the ore to other places, hi order to its being refined, and other charges, not only anfwers them all at ten marks per cheft, but the furplus is then very confiderable. There are likewife other mines where, after being refined, a chefl yields only five or fix marks of filver, and in fome only three ; which yet will bear the expence of refining, being in a cheap country, where great numbers of people are willing to work for low wages. Befides the riches contained in the mountains belonging to the jurifdiftion of Cuenca, though this rells only on an old Indian tradition, feveral mines have lately been difcovered and worked, but not with the care requifite to reap all the advantages they offer. One of thefe was in the diftrid of Alaufi, at about fix leagues from a plantation called Sufna ; the owner of which, during the intervals of rural labour, ufed to employ his Indians and Negroes in taldng out the ore, which he found to be very rich ; but for want of a fufEcient fund to profecute this work, and at the fame time not neglefl; his plantation, he never was able to get from the mine that immenfe quantity of filver which its richnefs feemed to promife, if worked in form. All that country is indeed fo full of mines, that with an induftrious turn in the minds of the inhabitants, they would be found in number and richnefs to equal thofe which have proved the fources of fuch infinite wealth to the fouthern provinces of Peru ; but it is far otherwife. This fupinenefs is thought to be owing to the great plenty ; and confequently a low rate of all kinds of provifions : for the inhabitants, having all they defire for little or nothing, cannot be prevailed on to flave in digging the earth for gold ; whence the inhabitants of the cities and towns are hindered from acquiring large fortunes, and confequently encreafing them by undertaking to work more mines. Add to this the prejudice, or rather apprehenfion of the difficulties ; which are thought fo great, that when a perfon exprefles his inten- tion of working in fome mine, others look upon him as a man running headlong to his deftrudion, and who rilks certain ruin for remote and uncertain hopes. They endea- vour therefore to divert him from his purpofe ; and if they cannot fucceed in this, they fly from him as if they were afraid left he fliould communicate the infedlion to them. It is not therefore ftrange that thefe mines, fo rich in all appearance, fhould be neglefted, and no perfon found defirous of reaping the great advantages which would doubtlcfs refult from working them. This occupation, for want of being fuf- ficiently acquainted with it, is univerfally dreaded : whereas in the fouthern provinces of Quito it is quite otherwife ; the celebrated miners being men of great power, vaft fortunes, and the moft eminent families in the country. Befides which, are great numbers of other miners of more Umited circumftances, all eagerly embracing any opportunity of employing their fubftance in undertaking mines. The governments of Quijos and Majos are no lefs abundant in mines than the jurif- diftions of Quito ; thofe in Jaen are of infinite richnefs ; and thofe of Maynas and Atacames not inferior to them. With regard to the firft, it is very well known, that the Indians on the banks of the Maranon, by wafliing the fands of fome of the rivers running into it, procure what gold they want, though their defires in this point are as moderate as the avidity of other nations are infatiable. This gold is an evident fign that the adjacent country abounds in mines. As to the fecond, experience has Ihewn that the borders of the rivers of Santiago and Mira are full of veins of gold, the Mu» lattos and Meftizos fupplying themfelves with that metal by waftiing the fands. But neither of them have applied themfelves to difcover the original veins. Befides gold and filver mines, the province of Quito has alfo thofe of other metals, and quarries of fine ftooe : but thefe are utterly difregarded by the inhabitants. Yet this province could ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA, 543 could not attain the complete pofleffion of its riches, if to the mines of gold and filver, nature had not added thofe materials which are neceffary in extracting the treafures they contain, and in the other fervices of life : nor could this country be properly faid to be rich in mines, if it afforded only thofe of gold and filver ; but nature, that there might be no deficiency in her gift, hath alfo furnilhed it with mines of azogue or quick- filver, which are found in the fouthem extremity of the province, near a village of the fame name belonging to the jurifdiction of Cuenca. Formerly the quickfilver for the gold and filver mines was furnifhed from hence ; but this has been fuppreffed ; fo that at prefent only thofe of Guanca Velica are allowed to be worked : by which means a flop has been put to thofe frauds difcovered in the payments of the fifths ; the miners, inftead of applying to the mine-offices within their department, or the principal ftaple, fupplying themfelves with contraband mercury. And the end has been fully anfwered with regard to the revenue ; frauds being now much more difficult, and confequently lefs frequent, fince the quickfilver can be had only from one mine, than when feveral were open. But at the fame time it is certain, that this prohibition was the principal caufe of the decay of the filver mines in the province of Quito : and had the cafe been duly examined, many other remedies might have been found to prevent thefe clandeftine praftices, befides an abfolute obftruftion to fo great a part of the riches of that country. It is the opinion of fome naturalifts, and the marks of it are indeed very evident, that the ground on which the city of Cuenca ftands, is entirely an iron mine, its veins fhewing themfelves in the chafms of fome breaches ; and the pieces taken out of the floughs prove it beyond difpute, not only by their colour and weight, but by being attrafted by the magnet, when reduced to fmall pieces ; and many intelligent perfons in thefe Ipecies of mines affirm, that it not only is an iron-mine, but alfo of extreme richnefs ; though this has not been afcertained by experiment. It is alfo equally unqueftionable, that, were it poffible to turn the induftry of the inhabitants into this channel, mines of copper, tin, and lead, might alfo be difcovered, though no fuch thing is at prefent known. But it is natural to fuppofe, that, where there are fo many mines of the moll precious metals, thofe of copper and lead are not wanting. In tLe next chapter, I Ihall give fome account of other mines ; together with the quarries of curious ftone, and feveral ancient monuments of antiquity, that nothing may be wanting towards the complete knowledge of this province, from which Spain derives fuch great advantages. CHAP. XL — Monuments of the ancient Indians, in the Jiirifdidion of Quito. — Account of the feveral Gems and Quarries found near that City. THE ancient inhabitants of Peru were far enough from carrying the fciences to any perfection, before the conqueft of the country by the Spaniards. They were not def- titute of all knowledge of them ; but it was fo faint and languid, that it was far from being fufficient for cultivating their minds. They had alfo fome glimmerings of the mechanic arts ; but their fimplicity, or want of tafte, was fo remarkable, that, unlefs forced by abfolute necellity, they lie /er departed from the models before them. The progrefs and improvements they made were owing to induftry, the common direftrefs of mankind. A clofe application fupplied the want of fcience. Hence, after a long feries of time, and exceffive labour, they raifed works, not fo totally void of art and beauty, but that fome particulars raife the admiration of an attentive fpedator. Such for inftance, were fome of thofe ilructures, of which we have ftill fuperb ruins, in which. 544 ulloa's voyage to south America. which, ccnfidering the magnitude of the works, and the few tools they were mafters of, their contrivance and ingenuity are really admirable. And the work itfelf, though deftitute of European fymmetry, elegance, and difpofition, is furprifmg, even in the very performance of it. Thefe Indians raifed works both for the convenience and veneration of pofterity. With thefe the plains, eminences, or teffer mountains, are covered ; like the Egyptians, they had an extreme paffion for rendering their burial-places remarkable. If the latter erected aftonifliing pyramids, in the centre of which their embalmed bodies were de- pofited ; the Indians, having laid a body without burial in the place it was to reft in, environed it with Itones and bricks as a tomb ; and the dependents, relations, and in- timate acquaintance of the deceafed, threw fo much earth on it as to form a tumulus or eminence which they called Guaca. The figure of thefe is not precifely pyramidical ; the Indians feeming rather to have affefted the imitation of nature in mountains and eminences. Their ufual height is about eight or ten toifes, and their length betwixt twenty and twenty-five, and the breadth fomething lefs ; though there are others much larger. I have already obferved, that thefe monuments are very common all over this country ; but they are mofh numerous within the jurifdidion of the town of Cayambe, its plains being, as it were, covered with them. The reafon of this is, that formerly here was one of their principal temples, which they imagined muft communicate a fa- cred quality to all the circumjacent country, and thence it was chofen for the burial- place of the kings and caciques of Quito ; and, in imitation of them, the caciques of all thefe villages were alfo interred there. The remarkable difference in the magnitude of thefe monuments feems to in- dicate, that the guacas were always fuitable to the character, dignity, or riches of the perfon interred ; as indeed the great number of vaflals under fome of the moft potent caciques, concurring to raife a guaca over his body, it muft certain- ly be confiderably larger than that of a private Indian, whofe guaca was raifed only by his family and a few acquaintance : with them alfo were buried their furniture, and many of their inftrumcnts, both of gold, copper, ftone, and earth : and thefe now are the objefts of the curiofity or avarice of the Spaniards inhabiting the country ; that many of them make it a great part of their bufinefs to break up thofe guacas, in expeftation of finding fomething valuable : and, milled by finding fome pieces of gold here and there, they fo devote themfelves to this fearch, as to fpend in it both their fubftance and time : though it muft be owned, that many, after a long perfevcrance under difappointments, have at length met with rich returns for all their labour and ex- pence. Two inftances of this kind happened while we were in the country ; the firft guaca had been opened near the village of Cayambe, in the plain of Pefillo, a little before our arrival at Quito ; and out of it were taken a confiderable quantity of gold utenfils ; fome of which we faw in the revenue-ofBce, having been brought there as equivalents for the fifths. The fecond was more recently difcovered in the jurifdiftion of Paftos, by a Dominican friar, who, from a turn of genius for antiquities, had laid out very large fums in this amufement ; and ;it laft met with a guaca in which he is faid to have found great riches. This is certain, that he fent fome valuable pieces to the provincial of his order, and other perfons at Quito. The contents of moft of them confift only of the flieleton of the perfon interred ; the earthen veflTels in which he ufed to drink chica, now called Guaqueros ; fome copper axes, looking-glafTes of the ynca- ftone, and things of that kind, being of little or no value, except for their great anti- quity, and their being the works of a rude illiterate people. The I ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 545 le manner of opening the guacas is, to cut the lower part at right angles, the ver- ind horizontal line meeting in the centre, where the corpfe and its furniture are e ftone mirrors taken out of the guacas are of two forts ; one of the ynca-ftone, "le other of the gallinazo-flone : the former is not tranfparent, of a lead colour, ift ; they are generally of a circular form, and one of the furfaces flat, with all loothnefs of a cryftal looking-glafs ; the other oval and fomething fpherical, and ilifti not fo fine. They are of various fizes, but generally of three or four inches :er, though I faw one of a foot and a half; its principal furface was con- and greatly enlarged objefts ; nor could its polifli be exceeded by the befl work- nong us. The great fault of this ftone is, its having feveral veins and flaws, befides the difadvantage to the furface of the mirror, render it liable to be by any little accident. Many are inclined to think that it is not natural, but y _ 1. There are, it muft indeed be owned, fome appearances of this, but not fuf- , f ^' ' "or conviftion. Among the breaches in this country, fome quarries of them are a<; J ? f^l and quantities continue to be taken out, though no longer worked for the ufe *" ans made of them. This does not, however, abfolutely contraditb the fufion , in order to heighten their quality, or caft them into a regular form. The gallinazo-ftone is extremely hard, but as brittle as flint : it is fo called from its black colour, in allufion to the colour of the bird of that name, and is in fome meafure diaphanous. This the Indians worked equally on both fides, and reduced it into a cir- cular figure. On the upper part they drilled a hole for a ftring to hang it by ; the furfaces were as fmooth as thofe of the former, and very exaftly refledl objefts. The mirrors made of this ftone were of different kinds, fome plain, fome concave, and others convex. I have feen them of all kinds : and, from the delicacy of the workmanlhip, one would have thought thefe people had been furnifhed with all kinds of inftruments, and completely Ikilled in optics. Some quarries of this ftone are likewife met with ; but they are entirely neglefted, though its tranfparency, colour, and hardnefs, befides its having no flaws or veins, render it very beautiful. The copper axes of the Indians differ very little in their fliape from ours : and it appears that thefe were the inftruments with which they performed moft of their works : for if not the only, they are the moft common edge-tools found among them ; and the whole apparent difference betwixt thofe they ufe, confifts only in fize and fhape : for though they all refemble an axe, the edge in fome is more circular than in others. Some have a concave edge, others a point on the oppolite fide, and a fluted handle. Thefe inftruments were not all of copper, fome having been found of gallinazo, and of another ftone fomething refembling the flint, but lefs hard and pure. Of this ftone, and that of the gallinazo, are feveral points, fuppofed to have been heads of fpears, as thefe were their two chief inftruments or weapons : for, had they ufed any other, fome would doubtlefs have been found among the infinite number of guacas which have been opened. The guaqueros, or drinldng-veflfels, are of a very fine black earth : but the place where they were made is utterly unknown. They are round, and with a handle in the middle, the mouth on one fide, and on the other the head of an Indian, whofe features are fo naturally expreffed, that very few of our workmen could equal it. Others, though of the fame form, are of a red earth. Befides which, there are found larger and fmaller velfels of both kinds of earth ufed in making and keeping the chicha. Among the gold pieces are the nofe-jewels, which in form refemble the foot of a chalice, and very little lefs : thefe were appended to the feptum, which divides the two VOL. XIV. 4 A noftrils. I 546 WLLOa's VOTAGE to south AMERICA. noftrils. There are alfo found collars, bracelets, and ear-pendants, refembling the nofe-jewels : but all thefe are no thicker than paper : the idols, which are at full length, are every where hollow within ; and as they are all of one piece, without any mark of foldering, the method they ufed in making them is not eafily conceived. If it be faid that they were cafl, ftill the difficulty remains how the mould could be of fuch a fragility as to be taken away without damaging works, which, in all their parts, are fo extremely thin. The maize has ever been the delight of the Indians ; for, befides being their food, their favourite liquor chicha was made of it ; the Indian artifls therefore ufed to {hew their (kill in making ears of it in a kind of very hard ftone ; and fo perfed; was the refemblance, that they could hardly be diftinguiflied by the eye from nature ; efpecially as the colour was imitated to the greateft perfeftion ; fome reprefented the yellow maize, fome the white ; and in others, the grains feemed as if fmoke-dried by the length of time they had been kept in their houfes. The mod fuiprifmg circumflance of the whole is, the manner of their working, which, when we confider their want of inftruments, and wretched form of thofe they had, appears an inexplicable myftery : for either they worked with copper tools, a mettle little able to refiil the hardnefs of flones ; or, to give the nice polifh confpicuous on their works, other Itones muft have been ufed for tools. But the labour, time, and patience, requifite to make only a hole in the gallinazos, as was made in the mirrours ; and much more to give their furfaces fuch a fmoothnefs and polifh, that they are not to be diftinguiflied from the fineft glafs, muft have been prodigious. Thefe are works which the moft ingenious of our artifts would be extremely at a lofs to produce, if they were allowed only pieces of copper and ftones, vnthout any other tools or materials. It is the greateft proof of the inge- nuity of thefe people, that by mere dint of genius, and unaffifted by information, they fhould attain to fuch contrivances and fuch a delicacy of workmanfliip. Yet all that we have faid is furpaffed by the ingenuity of the Indians in working emeralds, with which they were fupplied from the coaft of Manta, and the countries dependent on the government of Atacames, Coaquis or Quaques. But thefe mines are now entirely loft, very probably through negligence. Thefe curious emeralds are found in the tombs of the Indians of Manta and Acatames : and are, in beauty, fize, and hardnefs, fuperior to thofe found in the jurifdidion of Santa Fe ; but what chiefly raifes the admiration of the connoifleur is, to find them worked, fome in fpherical, fome cylindrical, fome conical, and of various other figures ; and all with a perfeft accuracy. But the unfurmountable difficulty here is, to explain how they could work a ftone of fuch hardnefs ; it being evident, that fteel and iron were utterly unknown to them. They pierced emeralds, and other gems, with all the delicacy of the prefent times, furniftied with fo many tools ; and the direftion of the hole is alfo very obfervable ; in fome it pafles through the diameter ; in others, only to the centre of the ftone, and coming out at its circumference they formed triangles at a fmall diftance from one another : and thus the figure of the ftone, to give it relief, was varied with the diredion of the holes. After this account of the guacas of thefe idolatrous nations, the cuftom which equally prevailed among the fouthern nations of Peru, I proceed to their fupcrb edifices, whether temples, palaces, or fortrelfes : and though thofe in the kingdom of Quito are not the moft ftately and magnificent, the court and refidence of the yncas having been in the province of Cufco ; yet fome of the former fufficiently denote the grandeur of the Indians who then inhabited it, and their fondncfs for fuch edifices ; intending as it 2 wer* WLLOA's VOTAGE to south AMERICA. 547 were to hide the rufticlty of their archite£lure under richnefs and magnificence which they profufely bellowed on their edifices, whether of brick or ftone. The greateft part of one of thefe works is ftill exifting, near the town of Cayambe, being a temple built cf unbaked bricks. It (lands on an eminence of feme height ; its figure is perfeftly circular, and its diameter eight toifes. Of this flrudure nothing now remains but the walls, which are in good condition ; and about two toifes and a half in height, and four or five feet in thicknefs. The cement of the bricks is of the fame earth with that of which they are made : and the hardnefs of them may be con- ceived, from remaining fo long in a good condition expofed to the injuries of weather, having no cover. Befides the ancient tradition that this ftrudure was one of the temples of thofe times, the manner of its conftruftion countenances fuch a conjefture : for its circular form, without any feparation in the infide, fhews it to have been a place of public refort, and not any habitation. The fmallnefs of the door renders it probable, that, though the yncas entered into their palaces in the chairs in which they were carried, as will be feen hereafter, this place they entered on foot, in token of veneration ; the dimenfions of the door not admitting of any other manner. And, as I have before obfervod, that one of the principal temples was not far from hence, this was probably tlie very ftrudure. At the extremity of the plain which runs northward from Latacunga, are flill feen the walls of a palace of the yncas of Quito ; and is flill called by its ancient name Callo. At prefent it ferves for the manfion-houfe of a plantation belonging to the Auguflines at Quito. If it wants the beauty and grandeur which charafterife the works of the ancient Egyptians, Greeks, Romans, and other nations verfed in the fine arts ; yet, if we make proper allowance for the ruflicity of the Indians, and compare this with their other buildings, the dignity of the prince will be abundantly confpicuous, in the prodigious magnitude of the materials, and the magnificence of the ftrudure. You enter it through a pafTage five or fix toifes in length, leading into a court, round which are three fpacious faloons, filling the three other fides of its fquares. Each of thefe faloons has feveral compartments ; and behind that which faces the entrance, are feveral fmall buildings, which feem to have been offices, except one ; and this, from the many divifions in it, was, in all probability, a menagerie. Though the prin- cipal parts flill continue, the ancient work is fomething disfigured, dwellings having been lately built among them, and aheradons made in the chief apartments. This palace is entirely of ftone, equal in hardnefs to flint ; and the colour almofl black. They are exceedingly well cut, and joined fo curioufly, that the point of a knife, or even fo much as a piece of the finefl paper cannot be put betwixt them ; fo that they only fhew the walls to be of different (tones, and not one entire compofirion, but no cement is perceivable. The (lones without are all of a convex figure, but at fhe entrance of the door are plane. But there is a vifible inequality, both in the ftones and in their courfes, which gives a more fingular air to the work ; for a fmall (lone is immediately followed by one large and ill-fquared, and that above is made to fit the inequalities of the other two, and at the fame time fill up all the interdices between the projeftions and irregularity of their faces ; and this in fuch perfedion, that, whatfoever way they are viewed, all parts appear joined with the fame exadnefs. The height of thefe walls is about two toifes and a half, and about three or four feet in thicknefs. The doors are about two toifes high, and their breadth at the bottom about three or four feet, but run narrowing upwards, where the aperture is only two feet and a half. The doors of the palaces, where the yncas refided, were made of fuch a height, to 4 A 2 allow 54* ulloa's voyage to south America. allow room for the chairs in which the monarch was carried on men's fhoulders into his apartment, the only place in which his feet touched the ground. It is not known whether this or the other palaces of the yncas had any ftories, nor how they were roofed : for thofe we examined were either open, or had been roofed by the Spaniards : but it is highly probable that they covered them with boards, in the form of a terrace, that is, fupported by beams laid acrofs : for in the walls there is nothing near the ground that affords room for a conjedure, that they ever fupported any roofs : on this horizontal roof they contrived fome flope for carrying oft" the waters. The reafon of contrading their doors at the top was, that the lintel might be of one (tone ; for they had no idea either of arches or of key-ftones, as may be concluded from no fuch works occurring among all their edifices. About fifty toifes north of this palace, fronting its entrance, is a mountain, the more Angular as being in the midft of a plain : its height is betwixt twenty-five and thirty toifes, and fo exadlly, on every fide, formed with the conical roundnefs of a fugar- loaf, that it feems to owe its form to induftry ; efpecially as the end of its flope on all fides forms exadlly with the ground the fame angle in every part. And what feems to confirm this opinion is, that guacas, or maufoleums, of prodigious magnitude, were greatly affefted by the Indians in thofe times. Hence the common opinion, that it is artificial, and that the earth was taken out of the breach north of it, where a little river runs, does not feem improbable. But this is no more than conjedure, not being founded on any evident proof. In all appearance this eminence, now called Pane- cillo de Callo, ferved as a watch tower, commanding an uninterrupted view of the country, in order to provide for the fafety of the prince on any fudden alarm of an invafion, of which they were under continual apprehenfions, as will appear from the account of their fortreffes. About two leagues north-eaft of the town of Atun-Canar, or great Canar, is a for- trefs or palace of the yncas. It is the mod entire, the largeft, and belt built in all the kingdom. Clofe by its entrance runs a little river, and the back part of it termi- nates in a high and thick wall at the flope of a mountain. In the middle of it is a kind of oval tower, about two toifes high from the ground within the fort, but without it rifes fix or eight above that of the hill. In the middle of the tower is a fquare of four walls ; which, on the fide facing the country, leave no paffage ; and all its angles touch the circumference of the oval. On the oppofite fide only, is a very nar- row pafs, anfwering to the inward part of the tower. In the middle of this fquare is an apartment of two fmall rooms, without any communication, and the doors of them oppofite to the fpace which feparates them. In the fides towards the country are ioop-holes ; and in critical times it was made a court of guard. From the outfide of this oval tower, a wall is extended on the left fide about forty toifes, and about twenty-five on the right ; this wail was continued in a great number of irregular angles, and enclofed a large fpot of ground. It had only one entrance, which was in the fide oppofite to the tower, and facing the laft angle on the right near the rivulet. From this gate or entrance was a paflage, juft broad enough for two perfons to walk abreafl, and at the wall turned fhort off towards the tower, but always of the fame breadth. After this it winded towards the breach, and widened fo as to form a parade before the tower. In thefe paffages, at the diftance of every two or three paces, one fees niches formed within the wall, like fentry-boxes ; and on the other fide two doors, which were entrances to the fame number of Ibldiers de logis, and feem to have ferved the corps of the garrifon for barracks. In the inner fquare, to the left of the tower, were feveral apartments, of which the height, difpofition, and doors, are a fufficient proof that tjlloa's voyage to south abierica. 54^ that this was once the Prince's palace. All the walls being full of hollows, refembling cupboards, in which, as likewife in the two chambers of the tower, the niches, and along the paflages, were flone pegs, with a head betwixt fix and eight inches long, ^d three or four in diameter : the ufe of thefe probably was for hanging up their arms. The whole main wall on the flope of the mountain, and defcending laterally from the oval tower, is very thick, and the outfide perpendicular. Within is a large ram- part, and on it a parapet of an unufual height ; and though the rampart reached quite round the wall, there was only one afcent to it, which was adjoining to the oval tower. The outward and inward walls are all of the fame kind of ftone, very hard and well- poliflied : and difpofed like thofe of Callo. The apartments alfo were without ceiling or flooring, like thofe of the above-mentioned palace. At Pomallafta, within the jurifdiclion of the town of Guafuntos, are fome rudera of another fortrefs like the former : and it is a common opinion here, that there was a fubterraneous communication betAveen thefe two fortifications ; but this does not feem at all probable. For befides the diftance of fix leagues, the ground is very uneven, and interrupted by fome of the fmaller branches of the Cordilleras, breaches, and brooks. The inhabitants are, however, very tenacious of their opinion : and lome affirm, that a few years before our arrival in the country, a perfon entered this fubter- raneous paflage at the fort of Canar, but, his light going out, he was obliged to return. They farther fay, that the entrance is within the fort at the foot of the tower, where indeed there is a fmall low door, but now choaked up with earth ; and was doubtlefs for fome ufe. But this does not imply that it led to the other fortrefs, as, befides a great quantity of lights, there muft alfo have been here and there vent-holes or fpiracles, which, confidering the mountains, is urteily impracticable. Many other walls and ruins are feen all over the country, both in the plains, on the fides of the hills, and on their fummits ; but moft in defert places, and without any veftige of a town or village near them ; and except thefe three, they are either of adoves or unknown ftone, without any arrangement. The more irregular are thought to be the works of Indians before they were reduced by the yncas : but thofe of Callo, and the other two fortrefles, by their fuperior fymmetry, fhew that they are of a later date, and built, under the direftion of the yncas, who applied themfelves with exemplary attention to promote neceffary arts throughout all their conquefts ; poflibly from this political view, that the people, fenfible of the happy change, might be the better fubjecls. All thefe remains of antique edifices the hidians call Inca perca, the Yncas Avails. Another Indian method of fortification, and of which there are ftill fome remains, was, to dig three or four ranges of moats quite round the tops of fuch mountains, as, though high and fteep, were not fubjeft to frofts : and every one on the infide ftrengthened by a parapet, whence they could fafely annoy the enemy. Thefe they called Pucuras ; and within the laft range of moats they built barracks for the garrifon. Thefe kinds of forts were fo common, that one fcarce meets with a moun- tain without them. On the peaks of Pambamarca, are three or four ; and one of them on the place where we fixed our fignal for the meridian triangles. In like manner we found them on almoft all the other mountains ; and the outward moat of circumvallation was above a league in extent. The breadth and depth of each was alike ; but in refpeft of one another, there was not the fame uniformity, fome of them having a breadth of two toifes and even more, and others not one ; and the like difference is obfervable in their depth. It was, however, their conftant care to make 3 the 55© ulloa's voyage to south America. the inward bank at leaft three or four feet higher than the outward, to have the greater advantage over the aflailants. The jun£tion and polifh fo much admired in all the remaining flone-works of the Indians, plainly fhew, that they made ufe of fome ftones to polifh others, by rubbing them together ; it being highly improbable that they could bring them to fuch perfec- tion with the few and awkward tools they ufed : as for the working of iron, they were undoubtedly llrangers to it, there being many mines of that metal in this country, and not one of them with any marks of having ever been touched. And no iron was found among them at the arrival of the Spaniards. But, on they contrary, they fhewed an extreme fondnefs for any thing made of that metal. I have already mentioned the quarries, or mines, producing the two kinds of ftone of which the Indians made their mirrors ; and which were thofe moft efteemed. There are likewife quarries of other ftones, which, in a country where gold and filver mines do not abound, would be thought valuable. Of thefe one is in the plain of Talqui, fouth of Cuenca ; out of which are taken very large and beautiful blocks of white and very clear alabafter. Its only fault is its foftnefs : yet that is not fuch as to hinder all kinds of works from being made of it ; or rather, its eafmefs contributes to their perfeftion : nor is there any danger of large flakes flying off, which often fpoil an entire piece. The only quarries of this flone are near Cuenca ; but thofe of rock cryflal I have feen in many parts, from whence I have had fome very large, clear, and tranf- parent pieces, and of a remarkable hardnefs : but, as it is not efteemed here, no ufe is made of it ; fo that what is found is purely by accident. In the fame jurifdiftion of Cuenca, and about two leagues north-weft of the city, not far from the villages of Racan and Saanfay, is a fmall mountain, entirely covered with flints ; moftly black, fome of a reddifh caft, and others whitifh. But, being ftrangers to the manner of cutting and filing them for fire-arms, the people make no ufe of them : and on fome occafions, flints, either for mufkets or piftols, have been fold at Cuenca, Quito, and all over the country, for two rials each ; but one is the common price of them, being brought from Europe. Confequently, as there is here a whole quarry of them, their exorbitant price is wholly owing to a want of induftry, as this would in a fhort time render them as expert at cutting flints as the Europeans. After the mines of metals, and the quarries of large ftones, it would be improper to omit the gems found in this province. I have already obferved, that the jurifdidion of Atacames and Manta formerly abounded in emeralds of a finenefs furpafling thofe of the mines of Santa Fe. Not a fmall number of them was deftroyed by an error of the firft Spaniards, who came hither, imagining that, if they were real gems, they would ftand the ftroke of a hammer on an anvil. The lofs of the mines of Atacames, and the negleft of many others of gold and filver, was in fome meafure compenfated by the difcovery of feveral in the jurifdidion of Cuenca ; but which have been but little improved, though they exhibit the moft inviting figns of their great riches, namely, fragments of rubies ; and which,, intelligent perfons fay, are very fine. Thefe are ufually found among the fands of a rapid river, not far from the village of Azogues. The Indians, and others, frequently make it their bufinefs to go and wafh thofe fands, where they find fmall fparks, about the bignefs of a lentil, and fometimes larger ; and it is not to be queftioned but thefe are wafhcd away by the continual allifion of the water in its paflage along the mine. But the inhabitants, content with this piddling work, do not trouble themfelves to trace the origin of the mine ; though there is all the appearance in the world that it would turn to very good account. 1 myfcif, when I I was ITLLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. 55 1 I vns at that village, faw feme of thefe fparks In their natural flate ; and both their colour and hardnefs fufficiently fhewed that they were of a very fine fort. Another kind of ftone is found in great plenty all over this country. It is of a fine green, and harder than alabafter, though not pellucid : but no more valued than any of the former ; except that a few toys or utenfils are made of it. Here are alfo fome mines of fulphur, and fome parts afford vitriol j but no farther known than as Nature has placed them in view ; not only the improvement of them being entirely neglected, but fcarcely any notice taken of thofe which He on the furface of the ground ; either becaufe the inhabitants ftand in no need of thofe minerals, or from their ftrong averfion to any thing that requires labour. North of Quito, betwixt two plantations, at the foot of mount Anlagua, one of which bears the fame name, and the other that of Courogal, runs a very large river, which petrifies any wood, leaves, &c. thrown into it. I have had whole branches thus petrified ; and the porofity of the ftem, the fibres of the rind, even the fmalleft veins of the leaves, and the meander of its fibril, equally difcernable as when frefh cut from the tree. I have alfo had large pieces of timber petrified, which at firft fight ap- peared to be vt'ood thoroughly dried ; no vifible alteration having been made in them, except in colour. With all thefe appearances, I cannot think that the wood, leaves, and the like, which are put into the river, are really turned into ftone of fuch a hardnefs as that I experienced : but as the appearance is undeniable, I fhall offer an explanation of this fup- pofed ti-anfmutation. It muft be obferved, that the rocks and all the parts which this river waflies, are. covered with a crufl of hardnefs little inferior to that of the main rock ; and this in- crtafes its volume, and diftinguifhes itfelf from the original rock, which is fomething yellowifh. The inference I would draw from hence is, that the water of the river is mixed with petrifying, vifcid, and glutinous particles, which adhere to the body they furround : and as by their extreme fubtility they infinuate themfelves through its pores, they fill the place of the fibres, which the water infenfibly rots off and fepa- rates, till at length all that was leaf or wood gives way to that petrifying matter ; which ftill retains the impreffion of the parts of the original, with its feveral veins, fibres, and ramifications. For at the time of its infinuation, the du(^s of the wood, or leaves, ferve for a kind of mould, by which it naturally takes the entire figure of the body into which it has obtruded itfelf. An obfervation I made with fome branches confirms me in this opinion : for, having opened them, I found fome leaves and bits of wood, which fnapped on breaking ; and the infide was as large as real ftone, the texture only remaining of its firft fubftance. But in others, the parts conlolidated by the ftony matter fnapped ; and the fibres, not having yet undergone a total corruption, retained the appearance of wood, though fome were more rotten and decayed than others. I had alfo fome leaves, the furface of which was only covered with a very fine lapideous tegument, but within were entire leaves, I " except here and there a little mark of decay. ' It is to be obferved, that this matter much more eafily faftens on any corruptible fubftance, than on the more compaft and folid, as ftones, and the like : the reafon of which is, that in one it meets with pores, in which it fixes itfelf ; but having no fuch I hold on the harder bodies, it is foon walhed oft" by the agitation of the water ; that if j now and then fuch crufts are feen on ftones, they never make any fenfible addition to their volume, though fome excrement is now confpicuous from the difference of the colour ; that of the petrified leaves, both within and without, is of a pale yellow j and the 552 LJJLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. the fame prevails in the ftems : though in thefe always with a mixture of that of the wood itfelf when dry. Though all the jurifdicHons of the kingdom of Quito, from north to fouth, are not molefted by the vicinity of wild Indians, yet it is the misfortune of the governments of Quixos and Macas, Jean and Maynas, to be furrounded and intermixed with thofe bar- barians ; fo that, by only palling the eaftern Cordillera of the Andes, towards that part you ufually meet with them : and from fome parts of thofe eminences the fmoke of their cottages may be feen. This fight is mofl frequently behfld from the moun- tain on the back of the to\vn of Cayambe ; and all along to the northward, from the village of Mira, within the jurLfdiction of the town of San Miguel di Ibarra. The fportfmen, when hunting on thofe hills, often fee the fmoke both on this fide and like- wife on the fame Cordillera, from the jurifdiction of Riobamba, to that of Cuenca. The village of Mira has often been furprifed with the fudden appearance of fome of thefe Indians ; but they have as fuddenly turned back, and \\ ith the fame hafle they came. It is not uncommon for Indians of thefe jurifdictions, from a fondnefs for floth and licentioufnefs, to leave their houfes and go over to the favages ; as among them they may, without controul, follow their natural idolatry, and give themfelves up to drunkennefs and all manner of vice ; and, what they think a fupreme happinefe, be ferved and attended by women, whofe office it is to take care of and fupport them : all their occupation being hunting, whenever compelled by neceflity, or induced by a fud- den fit of induflry. Thus they live in a debafement of human nature ; without laws or religion ; in the moft infamous brutality ; ftrangers to moderation ; and without the Jeaft controul or reftraint on their excelTes. PART II. ACCOUNT OF PERU AND CHILI. BOOK VII. Account of our Journey to Lima ; with a Defcription of the Towns and Settlements on the Road, and of the City of Lima. CHAP. I. — Journey from Quito to Truxillo. ' I 'HE accidents to which human enterprizes and attempts are generally expofed, ■*~ direft, with an inconftant but wonderful harmony, the feries of our adions and adventures, and introduce among them a great variety of alterations and changes. It is this variety which, in vegetation, embellilhes nature, and equally difplays the glory and wifdom of the Supreme Creator in the polidcal and rational world ; where we admire the furprifing diverfity of events, the infinity of human actions, and the different fchemes and confequences in politics, the fuccelFive chain of which renders hiftory fo delightful, and. ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 553 and, to a reflefting mind, fo inftruttive. The inconflancy fo often feen in things the moft folid and ftable, is generally one of the mofl powerful obftacles to the advan- tages which might otherwife be derived from works of any duration. However great they are, either in reality, or idea, the perfection of them is not only impeded by the viciffitudes of time, and the inconflancy of things, but they even decline, and fall into ruins : fome, through want of proper fupport and encouragement ; while others, from the mind being wearied out by delays, difficulties, and a thoufand embarraffments, are abandoned ; the imagination being no longer able to purfue its magnificent fcheme. To meafure fome degrees of the meridian near the equator, the principal intention of our voyage, if confidered only in idea, and abftradedly from the difficulties which at- tended its execution, mufl; appear eafy, and as requiring no great length of time ; but experience convinced us, that a work of fuch importance to the improvement of fcience, and the intereft of all nations, was not to be performed without delays, difficulties, and dangers, which demanded attention, accuracy, and perfeverance. Befides the diffi- culties neceflarily attending the requifite accuracy of thefe obfervations, the delays we were obliged to make in order to take them in the mofl: favourable feafons, the inter- vening clouds, the Paramos, and difpofition of the ground, were fo many obftacles to our making any tolerable difpatch ; and thefe delays filled us with apprehenfions, that if any other accidents fhould happen, the whole defign would be rendered abortive, or at leaft, fufFer a long interruption. It has already been obferved, that while we were at Cuenca, finilhing our aftronomi- cal obfervations in that extremity of the arch of the meridian, we unexpectedly re- ceived a letter from the Marquis de Villa Garcia, viceroy of Peru, defiring us to come with all fpeed to his capital : any delay on our part might have been improper ; and we were folicitous not to merit an accufation of the leaft remifsnefs in His Majefty's fervice. Thus we were under a neceflity of fufpending our obfervations for fome time * ; though all that remained was the fecond aftronomical obfervation, northward, where the feries of our triangles terminated. The occafion of this delay arofe from an account, received by the viceroy, that war being declared between Spain and England, the latter was fending a confiderable fleet on fome fecret defigns into thofe feas. Several precautions had been taken to defeat any attempt ; and the viceroy, being pleafed to conceive that we might be of fome ufe to him in acquitting himfelf with honour on this occafion, committed to us the execu- tion of fome of his meafures ; giving us to underftand, that the choice he made of us, was the moft convincing proof of the high opinion he entertained of our abilities ; and indeed our obligations were the greater, as the diftance of four hundred leagues had not obliterated us from his remembrance, of which he now gave us fo honourable a proof. On the 24th of September 1740, the viceroy's letter was delivered to us, and we immediately repaired to Quito, in order to furnifli ourfelves with neceflaries for the journey. Every thing being performed, we fet out from that city on the 30th of October, and determined to go by Guaranda and Guayaquil ; for, though there is a road by land through Cuenca and Loja, yet the other feemed to us the moft expeditious, as the ways are neither fo bad, nor mules and other beafts of carriage fo difficult to be met with. The long ftays in villages were here alfo little to be apprehended, which are frequently rendered neceflary in the other road by inundations, rivers, and precipices. * BookV. Chap. II. VOL. xrv. 4 B On 554 ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. On the 30th of 0£tober we reached the Bodegas, or warehoufes, of Babayoho, where, taking a canoe, we went down the river to Gayaquil ; and embarking on board a fmall fhip bound for Puna, we anchored in that port November the 3d. At this place we hired a large balza, which brought us through the gulph to Machala. For though the ufual route is by the Salto de Tumbez, we were obliged to alter our courfe, the pilot not being well acquainted with the entrance of a creek, through which you pafs to the Saha. On the 5th, in the morning, our balza landed us on the coafl of Machala, from whence we travelled by land to the town, the diftance being about two Ihort leagues. The next day we fent away our baggage in a large canoe to the Salto de Tumbez ; go- ing myfelf in the fame canoe, being difabled by a fall the preceding day. Don George Juan, with the fervants, followed on horfeback : the whole country being level, is every where full of fait marfhes, and overflows at high-water, fo that the track is not fufficient for two to go abreaft. The Salto, where I arrived on the 7th at night, is a place which ferves as a kind of harbour for boats and fmall veflTels. It is fituated at the head of fome creeks, particu- larly that of the Jambeli, between fourteen and fixteen leagues from the coaft, But en- tirely deftitute of inhabitants, no frefh water being found in any part of the adjacent country ; fo that it only ferves for landing goods configned to Tumbez, where they are carried on mules, kept there for this purpofe ; and in this its whole trade confifts. The Salto is uninhabited ; nor does it afford the leaft flielter, all the goods brought thither being depofited in a fmall fquare ; and, as rain is feldom or ever known here, there is little danger of their receiving any damage before they are carried to Tumbez. Here, as along the fides of all the creeks, the mangrove-trees ftand very thick, with their roots and branches fo interwoven as to be abfolutely impenetrable ; though the fwarms of mufchitos are alone fufficient to difcourage any one from going among them. The only defence againft thefe infeds is, to pitch a tent, till the beafls are loaded, and you again move forward. The more inland parts, where the tides do not reach, are covered with forefts of fmaller trees, and contain great quantities of deer ; but, at the fame time, are infefled with tigers ; fo that, if the continual flinging of the mufchitos deprives travellers of their reft, it alfo prevents their being furprifed by the tigers, of the fury of which there are many melancholy examples. On the 9th, in the morning, I arrived at the town of Tumbez, fituated feven leagues from the Salto ; the whole country through which the road lies is entirely vvafte, part of it being overflowed by the tides, and the other part dead fands, which refleft the rays of the fun fo intenfely, as to render it neceflary, in general, to perform this jour- ney in the night ; for travelling feven leagues thither, and as many back, without either water or fodder, is much too laborious for the mules to undergo in the day-time. A drove of mules, therefore, never fets out from Tumbez for the Salto, till an account arrives, generally by one of the failors belonging to the veiTel, of the goods being landed, and every thing in readinefs ; as it would otherwife be loft labour, it being im- pofTible that the mules fhould make any ftay there. Don George Juan had reached Tumbez on the 8th, and, though he did every thing in his power to provide mules for continuing our journey, we were obliged to wait there fome time longer. Nor could we make any advantage of our ftay here, except to ob- ferve the latitude, which we did on the ninth with a quadrant, and found it to be 3° 13' i6"fouth. Near Tumbez is a river of the fame name, which difcharges itfelf into the bay of Guayaquil, almoft oppofite to the ifland of St. Clare. Barks, boats, balzas, and canoes, may ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. ^'^^ may go up and down this river, being three fathoms deep and twenty-five broad ; but it is dangerous going up it in the winter feafon, the impetuofity of its current being then increafed by torrents from the mountains. At a little diftance from the Cordillera, on one fide of the banks of the river, flands the town of Tumbez in a very fandy plain, in- terfperfed with fome fmall eminences. The town confifts only of feventy houfes, built of cane, and thatched, fcattered up and down without any order or fymmetry. In thefe houfes are about one hundred"and fifty families of Mellizos, Indians, Mulattoes, and a few Spaniards. There are befides thefe other families living along the banks of the river, who having the conveniency of watering their grounds, continujjlly employ themfelves in rural occupations. The heat is exceffive; nor have they here any rain for feveral years fucceflively ; but when it begins to fall, it continues during the winter. The whole country from the town of Tumbez to Lima, contained between the foot of the Cordillera and the fea, is known by the name of Valles, which we mention here, as it will often occur in the remaining parts of this narrative. Tumbez was the place where, in the year 1526, the Spaniards firfl landed in thefe parts of South America, under the command of Don Francifco Pizarro ; and where he entered into feveral friendly conferences with the princes of the country, but vaffals to the Yncas. If the Indians were furprized at the fight of the Spaniards, the latter were equally fo at the prodigious riches which they every where faw, and the largenefs of the palaces, caftles, and temples ; of all of which, though built of ftone, no vefliges are now remaining. Along the delightful banks of this river, as far as the water is conveyed, maize, and all other fruits and vegetables that are natives of a hot climate, are produced in the greateft plenty ; and in the more diftant parts, which are deftitute of this advantage, grows a kind of leguminous tree, called algarrobale, producing a bean, which ferves as food for all kinds of cattle. It refembles almoft that known in Spain by the name of Valencia ; its pod being about five or fix inches long, and only four lines broad, of a whitifli colour, intermixed with veins of a faint yellow. It proves a very flrengthening food to beafts of labour, and is ufed in fattening thofe for the flaughter, which hence acquire a tafte remarkably delicious. On the 1 4th I arrived at the town of Piura, where I was obliged to wait fome time for Don George Juan, during which I entirely recovered from the indifpofition I before la- boured under from my fall. Here I experienced the efficacy of the Calaguala, which I happily found not to fall fhort of the great reputation it has acquired in feveral parts of Europe. From the town of Tumbez to the city of Piura is fixty-two leagues, which we per- formed in fifty-four hours, exclufive of thofe we refted ; fo that the mules, which always travel one conftant pace, go fomething above a league an hour. To the town of Amo- tape, the only inhabited place in the whole road, is forty-eight leagues ; the remaining part is one continued defart. At leaving Tumbez, its river is crolTed in balzas, after which, for about two leagues, the road lies through thickets of algarrobale, and other trees, at the end of which the road runs along the fea-coail to Mancora, twenty-four leagues from Tumbez. In order to travel this road, an opportunity at low water mufl be taken for crofling a place called Malpaffo, about fix leagues from Tumbez ; for being a high fteep rock, wafhed by the fea during the flood, and the top of it impaffable from the many chafms and precipices, there is a neceffity of pafling between the fea and its bafis, which is about half a league in length : and this mufl be done before the flood returns, which foon covers this narrow way, though it is very fafe at low water. During 4 B 2 the jj56 ' ulloa's voyage to south America. the remainder of this journey, it is equally neceffary to confult the tide ; for the whole country being fandy, the mules would, from their finking fo deep in it, be tired the firft league or two. Accordingly travellers generally keep along the fhore, which being wafhed by the breaking of the waves, the land is more compaft and firm, and confe- quently much eafier to the bealts. During the winter, there runs through Mancora a fmall rivulet of frefli water, to the great relief of the mules ; but in fummer the httle remaining in Its courfe is fo brackifli, that nothing but abfolute neceffity can render it tolerable. The banks of this rivulet are fo fertile by its water, that it produces fuch numbers of large algarrobales, as to form a fhady foreft. From Mancora, the road for fourteen leagues runs between barren mountains, at fome diftance from the coaft, with very troublefome afcents and declivities, as far as the breach of Parinnas, where the fame cautions are to be obferved as at Mancora, and is the fecond ftage ; from whence the road lies over a fandy plain ten leagues in length, to the town of Amotape, and at fome diftance from the coaft. This town, which ftands in 4° 5i'43"fouth latitude, 'is an appendix to the parifh of Tumbez, belonging to its lieutenancy, and in the jurifdidtion of Piura. The houfes are about thirty in number, and compofed of the fame materials with thofe of Tumbez ; but the inhabitants are only Indians and Meftizos. A quarter of a league from it is a river of the fame name, and whofe waters are of fuch prodigious ufe to the country, that it is every where cultivated, and divided into fields, producing plenty of the feveral grains, efculent vegetables, and fruits, natural to a hot climate ; but like Tumbez, is infefted with mofchitos. This river in fummer may be forded ; but in winter, when the torrents defcend from the mountains, it muft be croffed in a balza, the rapidity of its current being then confiderably increafed. There is a neceffity for pafling it in going to Piura, and after this for about four leagues the road lies through woods of lofty algarrobales. Thefe woods terminate on a fandy plain, where even the moft ex- perienced drivers and Indians fometimes lofe their way, the wind levelling thofe hills of land which ferved as marks, and effacing all the tracks formerly made ; fo that in tra- veiling this country, the only direftion is the fun in the day-time, and the ftars in the night ; and the Indians being little acquainted with the fituation of thefe objefts, are often bewildered, and expofed to the greateft hardfhips before they can again find their way. From what has been faid, the difficulties of travelling this road may be conceived. Befides, as far as Amotape, not only all kinds of provifions muft be carried, but even water, and the requifitcs for kindling a fire, unlefs your provifion confifts of cold meat. In this laft ftage is a mine of cope, a kind of mineral tar, great quantities of which are carried to Callao, and other ports, being ufed in fliips inftead of naphtha, but has the ill quality of burning the cordage ; its cheapnefs, however, induces them to ufe it mixed with naphtha. The city of Piura, which is at prefent the capital of its jurifdidion, was the firft Spanifh fettlement in Peru. It was founded in the year 1531 by Don Francifco Pizarro, who alfo built the firft church in it. This city was originally called San Miguel de Piura, and ftood in the valley of Targafala, from whence, on account of the badnefs of the air, it was removed to its prefent fituation, which is on a fandy plain. The latitude of it is 50 1 1' 1" fouth, and the variation of the needle we obferved to be 8° 13' eafterly. The houfes are either of bricks dried in the fun, or a kind of reeds called quinchas, and few of them have any ftory. Here the corregidor refides, whofe jurifdidion extends on one fide along Valles, and on the other among the mountains. Here is an office for the royal revenue, under an accountant or treafurer, who relieve each other every fix 9 months. ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 557 months, one refiding at the port of Paita, and the other in this place : at the former for receiving the duties on imports for goods landed there, and alfo for preventing a contraband trade. ; and at the latter for receiving the revenues and merchandizes on goods configned from the mountains to Loja, or going from Tumbez to Lima. This city contains near fifteen hundred inhabitants ; and among thefe fome families of rank, befides other Spaniards, Meftizos, Indians, and Mulattoes. The climate is hot and very dry, rains being feldomer known here than at Tumbez : notwithftanding •which it is very healthy. It has a river of great advantage to the inhabitants as well as the adjacent country, the foil of which is fandy, and therefore eafier penetrated by the water ; and being level, the water is conveyed to different parts by canals. But in the fummer the river is abfohitely deftitute of water, the httle which defcends from the mountains benig abforbed before it reaches the city ; fo that the inhabitants have no other method of procuring water, but by digging wells in the bed of the river, the depth of which muft be proportioned to the length of time the drought has continued. Piura has an hofpital under the care of the Bethlemites ; and though patients af- flicted with all kinds of diftempers are admitted, it is particularly famous for the cure of the French difeafe, which is not a little forwarded by the nature of the climate. Accordingly there is here a great refort of perfons infected with that infamous dif- temper ; and are reftored to their former health by a lefs quantity of a fpecific than is ufed in other countries, and alfo with greater eafe and expedition. As the whole territory of this jurifdiclion within Valles produces only the algarroba, maize, cotton, grain, a few fruits and efculent vegetables, moft of the inhabitants apply themfelves to the breeding of goats, great numbers of which are continually fold for llaughter, and from their fat they make foap, for which they are fure of a good market at Lima, Quito, and Panama ; their fkins are drefled into leather called Cor- dovan, and for which there is alfo a great demand at the above cities. Another branch of its commerce is the Cabuya, or Pita, a kind of plant from whence a very fine and ftrong thread is made ; and which abounds in the mountainous parts of its jurifdidion. Great advantages are alfo made from their mules ; as all the goods fent from Ouito to Lima, and alfo thofe coming from Spain, and landed at the port of Paita, cannot be forwarded to the places they are configned to but by the mules of this province ; and from the immenfe quantity of goods coming from all parts, fome idea may be formed of the number of beads employed in this trade, which continues more or lefs through- out the year, but is prodigious when the rivers are fhallow. Don George Juan being arrived at Piura, every thing was got ready with the utmoft difpatch, and on the 21ft we continued our journey. The next day we reached the town of Sechura, ten leagues diftant from Piura, according to the time we were traveUing it. The whole country between thefe two places is a level fandy defart. Though the badnefs and danger of the roads in Peru fcarce admit of any other method of travelling than on mules, yet from Piura to Lima there is a conveniency of going in litters. Thefe inftead of poles are fufpended on two large canes, like thofe of Guayaquil, and are hung in fuch a manner as not to touch the water in fording rivers, nor llrike againft the rocks in the afcents or defcents of difficult roads. As the mules hired at Piura perform the whole journey to Lima, without being relieved, and in this great diftance, are many long defarts to be crofled, the natural fatigue of the diftance, increafed by the fandinefs of the roads, render fome intervals of reft abfo- lutely neceflary, efpecially at Sechura, becaufe on leaving that town we enter the great defart of the fame name. We tarried here two days ; during which we obferved the latitude, and found it 5° 32' 33^" S. The 558 ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. The original fituation of this town was contiguous to the fea, at a fmall diftance from a point called Aguja ; but being deftroyed by an inundation, it was thought proper to build the prefent town of Sechura about a league diftance from the coaft, near a river of the fame name, and which is fubjecl to the fame alterations as that of Piura ; for at the time we crofled it no water was to be feen ; whereas from the months of February or March till Augufl or September, its water is fo deep, and the current fo ftrong, as to be pafled only in balzas ; as we found in our fecond and third journey to Lima. When the river is dry, the inhabitants make ufe of the above-mentioned expedient of digging wells in its beds, where they indeed find water but very thick and brackifh. Sechura contains about two hundred houfes of cane, and a large and hand- fome brick church ; the inhabitants are all Indians, and confift of near four hundred families, who are all employed either as drivers of the mules or filhermen. The houfes of all thefe towns are quite fmiple ; the walls confifting only of common canes and reeds, fixed a little way in the ground, with flat roofs of the fame materials, rain being hardly ever known here ; fo that they have fufficient light and air, both the rays of the fun and wind eafily find a paffage. The Indian inhabitants of this place ufe a dif- ferent language from that common in the other towns both of Quito and Peru ; and this is frequently the cafe in great part of Valles. Nor is it only their language which diftingUrfhes them, but even their accent ; for befides their enunciation, which is a kind of melancholy finging, they contrad half of their laft words, as if they wanted breath to pronounce them. The drefs of the Indian women in thefe parts, confifts only of an anaco, like that of the women of Quito, except its being of fuch a length as to trail upon the ground. It is alfo much larger, but without fleeves, nor is it tied round them with a girdle. In walking they take it up a little, and hold it under their arms. Their head-drefs con- fifts of cotton cloth laced or embroidered with different colours ; but the widows wear black. The condition of every one may be known by their manner of dreffing their hair, maids and widows dividing it into two plaited locks, one hanging on each Ihoulder, whilft married women braid all their hair in one. They are very induf- trious, and ufually employed in weaving napkins of cotton and the like. The men drefs in the Spanifh manner ; and confequently wear fhoes ; but the women none. They are naturally haughty, of very good underftandings, and diflfer in fome cuftoms from thofe of Quito. They are a proof of what has been obferved (Book VI. Chap. VI.) with regard to the great improvement they receive from a knowledge of the Spanifh lan- guage ; and accordingly it is fpoken here as fluently as their own. They have genius, and generally fucceed in whatever they apply themfelves to. They are neither fo fuper- ftitious, nor fo excelTively given to vice as the others ; fo that except in their colour and other natural appearances, they may be faid to differ greatly from them ; and even in their propenfity to intemperance, and other popular cuftoms of the Indians, a certain moderation ai)d love of order is confpicuous among thefe. But to avoid tedious repe- titions, I fhall conclude with obferving, that all the Indians of Valles from I'umbez to Lima are induftrious, intelligent, and civilized beyond what is generally imagined. The town of Sechura is the laft in the jurifdidion of Piura, and its inhabitants not only refufe to furnifh pafTengers with mules, but alfd will not fufler any perfon of whatever rank, to continue his journey, without producing the corregidor's pafTport. The intention of this ftridnefs is to fupprefs all abules in trade ; for there being befides this road v/hich leads to the defart, only one other called the Rodeo ; one of them muft be taken ; if that of the defart, mules muft be hired at Sechura for carrying water for the ufe of the loaded mules when they have performed half their journey 10 Thi; ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. 559 This water is put into large callebaflies, or fkins, and for every four loaded mules one mule loaded with water is allowed, and alfo one for the two mules carrying the litter. When they travel on horfeback, the riders carry their water in large bags or wallets made for that purpofe ; and every one of the paffengers, whether in the litter or on horfeback, provides himfelf with what quantity he thinks fafficient, as during the whole journey nothing is feen but fand, and hills of it formed by the wind, and here and there mafles of fait ; but neither fprig, herb, flower, or any other verdure. On the 24th we left Sechura, and croiled the defart, making only fome fhort flops for the eafe of our beafts, fo that we arrived the next day at five in the evening, at the town of Morrope, twenty-eight or thirty leagues dillance from Sechura, though falfely computed more by the natives. The extent and uniform afpcd of this plain, together with the continual motion of the fand which foon effaces all tracks, often bewilders the mofl experienced guides, who, however, fhew their fkill in foon recovering the right way ; for which they make ufeof two expedients: firft, to obferve to keep the wind diredly in their face ; and the reverfe upon their return ; for the fouth winds being conflant here^ this rule cannot deceive them: fecond, to take up a handful of fand at different dilfances, and fmell to it ; for as the excrements of the mules impregnate the fand more or lefs, they determine which is the true road by the fcent of it. Thofe who are not well acquainted with thefe parts, expofe themfelves to great danger, by flopping to reft or fleep ; for when they again fet forward, they find themfelves unable to deter- mine the right road ; and when they once have loll the true direftion, it is a remarkable inftance of Providence if they do not perifh with fatigue or diftrefs, of which there are many melancholy inftances. The town of Morrope confifls of between feventy and eighty houfes, built like thofe in the preceding towns ; and contains about one hundred and fixty families, all Indians. Near it runs a river called Pozuelos, fubjefl: to the fame changes as thofe above-men- tioned : though the lands bordering on its banks are cultivated, and adorned with trees. The inftind of the beafts ufed to this road is really furprifmg ; for even at the diflance of four leagues, they fmell its water, and become fo impatient that it would be difficult to flop them : accordingly they purfue themfelves the fhortefl road, and perform the remainder of the journey with remarkable cheerfulnefs and difpatch. On the 26th we left Morrope, and arrived at Lambayeque, four leagues from it : and being obliged to continue there all the 27th, we obferved its latitude, and found it 6" 41' 37" fouth. This place confifls of about one thoufand five hundred houfes, built fome of bricks, others of bajareques, the middle of the walls being of cane, and plaifter- ed over, both on the infide and outfide, with clay : the meanefl confifl entirely of cane, and are the habitations of the Indians. The number of inhabitants amount to about three thoufand, and among them, fome confiderable and opulent families ; but the generahty are poor Spaniards, Mulattoes, Meflizos, and Indians. The parifh-church is built of ftone, large and beautiful, and the ornaments fplendid. It has four chapels called ramos, with an equal number of priefts, who take care of the fpiritual concerns of the Indians, and alfo attend, by turns, on the other inhabitants. The reafon why this town is fo populous is, that the families which formerly inhabited the city of Sana, on its being facked in 1685, by Edward Davis, an Enghfli adventurer, removed hither ; being under a farther neceffity of changing their dwelling from a fud- den inundation of the river of the fame name, by which every thing that had efcaped the ravages of the Engiifh was deftroyed. It is the refidence of a corregidor, having under his jurifdiftion, befides- many other towns, that of Morrope. One of the two officers of tha revenue appointed for Truxillo, refides here. A river called Lambay- eque, ^6o ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. eque, waflies this place ; which, when the waters are high, as they were when we arrived here, is crofled over a wooden bridge ; but at other times may be forded, and often is quite dry. The neighbourhood of Lambayeque, as far as the induftry of its inhabitants have improved it, by canals cut from the river, abounds in feveral kinds of vegetables and fruits ; fome of the fame kind with thofe known in Europe, and others of the Creole kind, being European fruits planted there, but which have undergone confiderable alterations from the climate. About ten leagues from it are efpaliers of vines, from the grapes of which they make wine, but neither fo good, nor in fuch plenty as in other parts of Peru. Many of the poor people here employ themfelves in works of cotton, as embroidered handkerchiefs, quilts, mantelets, and the like. On the 28th we left Lambayeque, and having pafled through the town of Monfefu. about four or five leagues diftant from it, we halted near the fea-coaft, at a place called Las Lagunas, or the Fens ; thefe contain frefh water left in them by the overflowings of the river Sana. On the 29th we forded the river Xequetepeque, leaving the town of that name at the diftance of about a quarter of a league, and in the evening arrived at the town of St. Pedro, twenty leagues from Lambayeque, and the laft place in its jurifdiclion. By obfervation we found its latitude to be 7° 25' 49" fouth. St. Pedro confifts of about one hundred and thirty baxareque houfes, and is inha- bited by one hundred and twenty Indian families, thirty of whites and Meftizos, and twelve of Mulattoes. Here is a convent of Auguftines, though it feldom confifts of above three perfons, the prior, the prieft of the town, and his curate. Its river is called Pacafmayo, and all its territories produce grain and fruits in abundance. A great part of the road from Lambayeque to St. Pedro, lies along the fhore, not indeed at an equal, but never at a great diftance from it. On the 30th of November we palTed through the town of Payjan, which is the firft in the jurifdiftion of Truxillo, and on the firft of December we reached that of Cho- cope, thirteen or fourteen leagues diftant from St. Pedro. We found its latitude to be 7^* 46' 40" fouth. The adjacent country being watered by the river called Chicama, diftributed to it by canals, produces the greateft plenty of fugar canes, grapes, fruits of diiferent kinds, both European and Creole : and particularly maize, which is the general grain ufed in all Valles. From the banks of the river Lambayeque to this place, fugar canes flourifti near all the other rivers, but none of them equal, either in goodnefs or quantity, thofe near the river Chicama. Chocope confifts of betwixt eighty and ninety baxareque houfes, covered with earth. The inhabitants, who are between fixty and feventy families, are chiefly Spaniards, with fome of the other cafts ; but not above twenty or twenty-five of Indians. Its church is built of bricks, and both large and decent. They report here, as fomething very remarkable, that in the year 1726, there was a continual rain of forty nights, beginning conftantly at four or five in the evening, and ceafing at the fame hour next morning, the Iky being clear all the reft of the day, This unexpefted event entirely ruined the / houfes, and even the brick church, fo that only fome fragments of its walls remained. What greatly aftoniftied the iiihabitants was, that during the whole time the foutherly winds not only continued the fame, but blew with fo much force, that they raifed the fand, though thoroughly wet. Two years after a like phenomenon was feen for about eleven or twelve days, but was not attended with the fame deftrudtive violence as the former. Since which time nothing of this kind has happened, nor had any thing like it been remembered for many years before, CHAP, I uiloa's voyage to south aiheiwca. 561 CHAP. 11. — Our Arrival at Truxillo ; a Defcripiion of that City, and the Continuance of our Journey to Lima. WITHOUT (laying any longer at Chocope than is ufual for refting the beads, we continued our journey, and arrived at the city of Truxillo, eleven leagues diftant, and, according to our observations, in 8" 6' 3" fouth latitude. This city vvas built in the year 15 "^5, by Don Francifco Pizarro, in the valley of Chimo. Its fituation is pleafant, notwithftanding the fandy foil, the univerfal defeft of all the towns in Valles. It is fur- rounded by a brick wall, and its circuit entitles it to be claffed among cities of the third order. It (lands about half a league from the fea, and two leagues to the northward of it is the port of Guanchaco, the channel of its maritime commerce. The houfes make a creditable appearance. The generality are of bricks, decorated with (lately balconies, and fuperb porticos ; but the other of baxareques. Both are however low, on account of the frequent earthquakes ; few have fo much as one (lory. The corregidor of the whole department refides in this city ; and alfo a bilhop (whofe diocefe begins at Tum- bez) with a chapter confiding of three dignitaries, namely, the dean, arch-deacon, and chanter ; four canons, and two prebendaries. Here is an office of revenue, condudted by an accomptant and treafurer ; one of whom, as I have already obferved, refides at Lambayeque. Convents of feveral orders are eftablilhed here ; a college of Jefuits, an hofpital of our Lady of Bethlehem, and two nunneries, one of the order of St. Clare, and the other of St. Terefa. The inhabitants confid of Spaniards, Indians, and all the other cads. Among the former are feveral very rich and diilinguilhed families. All in general are very civil and friendly, and regular in their conduft. The women in their drefs and cudoms follow nearly thofe of Lima, an account of which will be given in the fequel. Great number of chaifes are feen here, there not being a family of any credit without one ; as the fandy foil is very troublefome in walking. In this climate, there is a fenfible dilFerence between winter and fummer, the former being attended with cold, and the latter with exceiTive heat. The country of this whole valley is extremely fruitful, abounding with fugar canes, maize, fruits and garden duff; and with vineyards and olive yards. The parts of the country neared the mountains produce wheat, barley, and other grain ; fo that the inhabitants enjoy not only a plenty of all kinds of provifions, but alfo make confiderable exports to Panama, efpecially of wheat and fugars. This remarkable fertility has been improved to the great embellilh- raent of the country ; fo that the city is furrounded by feveral groves, and delightful walks of trees. The gardens alfo are well cultivated, and make a very beautiful appearance ; which with a continual ferene fky, prove not lefs agreeable to travellers than to the inhabitants. About a league from the city is a river, whcfe waters are conduced by various canals, through this delightful country. We forded it on the 4th when we left Truxillo ; and on the 5th, after palling through Moche, we came to Biru, ten leagues from 'I'rux- illo. The pafs of the corregidor of Truxillo mud be produced to the alcalde of Moche, for wdthout this, as before at Sechura, no perfon would be admitted to con- tinue his journey. Biru, which lies in 8° 24' ^g" fouth latitude, confids of fifty baxareque houfes, inha- bited by feventy fanailies, of Spaniards, Indians, Mulattoes, and Medizos. About half a league to the northward of it is a rivulet, from which are cut feveral trenches for watering the grounds. Accordingly the lands are equally fertile with thofe of Truxillo, VOL. XIV. 4 c and 562 ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. and the fame may be faid of the other fettlements farther up the river. This place we left the fame day, travelling fometimes along the fliore, fometimes at a league diflance from it. On the 6th we halted in a defert place called Tambo de Chao, and afterwards came to the banks of the river Santa ; which having paffed by means of the Chimbadores, we entered the town of the fame name, which lies at about a quarter of a league from it, and fifteen from Biru. The road being chiefly over vafl fandy plains intercepted between two hills. The river Santa, at the place where it is ufually forded, is near a quarter of a league in breadth, forming five principal ftreams, which run during the whole year with great rapidity. It is always forded, and for this purpofe perfons make it their bufmefs to attend with very high horfes, trained up to ftem the current, which is always very flrong. They are called Chimbadores ; and mufl: have an exaft knowledge of the. fords, in order to guide the loaded mules in their paffage, as other wife the fording this river would be fcarce prafticable, the floods often flufting the beds of the river ; fo that even the Chimbadores themfelves are not always fafe ; for the fords being fuddenly changed in one of the flreams, they are carried out of their depth by the cur- rent, and irretrievably loft. During the winter feafon, in the mountains, it often fwells to fuch a height, as not to be forded for feveral days, and the paflengers are obliged to wait the fall of the waters, efpecially if they have with them any goods ; for thofe who travel without baggage may, by going fix or eight leagues above the town, pafs over it on balzas made of calabafhes ; though even here not without danger, for if the balza happens to meet any ftrong current, it is fwept away by its rapidity, and carried into the lea. When we forded it, the waters were very low, notwithflanding which, we found, from three feveral experiments made on its banks, that the velocity of the cur- rent was thirty-five toifes in twenty-nine feconds and a half ; fo that the current runs 4271 toifes, or a league and a half in an hour. This velocity does not indeed equal what M. de la Condamine mentions in the narrative of his voyage down the river Ma- ranon, or that of the Amazons, at the Pango, or llrait of Manceriche. But doubtlefs when the river Santa is at its ufual height, it exceeds even the celerity of the Pango : at the time of making our obfervations, it was at its loweft. The latitude of the town cf Santa Miria de la Parrilla, for fo it is called, we deter- mined by an obfervation of fome ftars, not having an opportunity of doing it by the fun, and found it 8" 57' 36" S. It was firft built on the lea coaft, from which it is now fomething above half a league diftant. It was large, populous, the refidence of a corregidor, and had feveral convents. But in 1685, being pillaged and deftroyed by the above-mentioned Englifii adventurer, its inhabitants abandoned it, and fuch as were not able to remove to a place of greater fecurity, fettled in the place where it now ftands. The whole number of houfes in it at prefent does not exceed thirty ; and of thefe the beft are only of baxareque, and the others of ftraw. Thefe houfes are inhabited with about fifty poor families confifting of Indians, Mulattoes and Meftizos. During our obfervations, we were entertained with a fight of a large ignited exhala- tion, or globe of fire in the air, like that mentioned in the firlt volume of this work, though not fo large, and lefs effulgent. Its dircdion was continued for a confiderable time towards the weft, till having reached the fea coaft, it difappeared with an explofion like that of cannon. Thofe who had not feen it were alarmed, and imagining it to be a cannon fired by fome (hip arrived in the port, ran to arms, and haftened on horfeback to the fhore, in order to opnofe the landing of the enemy. But finding ail quiet, they returned to the town, only leaving fome centinels to fend advice, if any thing extraor- I dinary ITLLOA S A'OYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. ^63 dinary fliould happen. Thefe igneous ph.T^nomena are fo far from being uncommon all over Valles, that they are feen at all tinie^ of the night, and fome of them remark- ably large, luminous, and continuing a coniiderable time. This town and its neighbourhood are terribly infefled with mofchitos. There are indeed fome parts of the year when their numbers decreafe, and fometimes, though very feldom, none are to be feen : but they generally continue during the whole year. The country from Piura upwards is free from this troublefome infed, except fome particular towns, fituated near rivers ; but they fwarm no where in fuch intolerable numbers as at Santa. Leaving this town on the 8th, we proceeded to Guaca-Tambo, a plantation fo called, eight leagues diftant from Santa ; and contiguous to it is the Tambo, an inn built by the Yncas for the ufe of travellers. It has a fhed for the convenience of paffengers, and a rivulet running near it. On the 9th, we came to another plantation known by the name of Manchan, within a league of which we pafled through a village called Cafma la Baxa, having a church, with not more than ten or twelve houfes. Half way betwixt this and Manchan is another rivulet. The latter plantation is about eight leagues diftant from the former. From Manchan on the loth, we travelled over thofe ftony hills called the Culebras, extremely troublefome, particularly to the litters, and on the following day, being the nth, we entered Guarmey, fixteen leagues from Manchan ; and after travelling about three leagues further we reached the Pafcana, or refting place, ereded inftead of a Tambo or inn, and called the Tambo de Culebras. The town of Guarmey is but fmall and inconfiderable, confifting only of forty houfes, and thefe no better than the preceding. They are inhabited by about feventy families, few of which are Spaniards. Its latitude is 10" 3' 53" fouth. The corregidor has obtained leave to refide here conti- nually, probably to be free from the intolerable plague of the mofchitos at Santa, where formerly was his refidence. On the 13th we proceeded from hence to a place called Callejones, travelling over thirteen leagues of very bad road, being either fandy plains, or craggy eminences. Among the latter is one, not a little dangerous, called Salto del Frayle, or the Friar's leap. It is an entire rock, very high, and towards the fea almofl perpendicular. There is however no other way, though the precipice cannot be viewed without horror ; and even the mules themfelves feem afraid of it by the great caution with which they take their fteps. On the following day we reached Guamanmayo, a hamlet at fome diftance from the river Barranca, and belonging to the town of Pativirca, about eight leagues from the Callejones. This town is the lafl in the jurifdiftion of Santa or Guarmey. Patavirca confifts only of fifty or fixty houfes, and a proportional number of inhabi- tants : among whom are fome Spanifh families, but very few Indians. Near the fea coaft, which is about three quarters of a league from Guamanmayo, are ftill remaining fome huge walls of unburnt bricks ; being the ruins of an antient Indian ftrufture j and its magnitude confirms the tradition of the natives, that it was one of the palaces of the antient caciques, or princes ; and doubtlefs its fituation is excellently adapted to that purpofe, having on one fide a moft fertile and delightful country, and on the other, the refrefliing profped of the fea. On the 1 5th we proceeded to the banks of the river Barranca, about a quarter of a league diftant. We eafily forded it, under the diredion of Chimbadores. It was now very low, and divided into three branches, but being full of ftones is always dan- gerous. About a league further is the town of Barranca, where the jurifdidion of 4 c 2 Guaura 564 tjlloa's vovage to south America. Guaura begins. The town is populous, and many of its inhabitants Spaniards, though the houfes do not exceed fixty or feventy. The fame day we reached Guaura, which from Guamanmayo makes a diftance of nine leagues. This town confuls only of one fingle ftreet, about a quarter of a league In length, and contains about one hundred and fifty or two hundred houfes, fome of which are of bricks, others of baxareques, befides a few Indian huts. This town has a parilh church, and a convent of Francifcans. Near it you pafs by a plantation, extending above a league on each fide of the road, which is every where extremely delightful ; the country eaflward, as far as the eye can reach, being covered with fugar canes, and weftward divided into fields of corn, maize, and other fpecies of grain. Nor are thefe elegant improvements confined to the neighbourhood of the town, but the whole valley, which is very large, makes the fame beautiful appearance. At the fouth end of the town of Guaura, flands a large tower, with a gate, and over it a kind of redoubt. This tower is eredted before a ftone bridge, under which runs Guaura river ; and fo near to the town that it waflies the foundations of the houfes, but without any damage, being a rock. From the river is a fuburb which extends above half a league, but the houfes are not contiguous to each other ; and the groves and gardens with which they are intermixed, render the road very pleafant. By a folar obfervation, we found the latitude of Guaura to be 11' 3' 36" fouth. The (ky is clear, and the temperature of the air healthy and regular. For though it is not without a fenfible difference in the feafons, yet the cold of the winter, and the heats of fummer, are both eafily fupportable. In proceeding on our journey from Guarmey we met with a great many remains of the edifices of the Yncas. Some were the walls of palaces ; others, as it were large dykes by the fides of fpacious high-ways ; and others fortrefles, or caflles, properly fituated for checking the inroads of enemies. One of the latter monuments Hands about two or three leagues north of Pativirca, not far from a river. It is i he ruins of a fort, and fituated on the top of an eminence at a fmall diftance from the fea ; but the veftiges only of the walls are now remaining. From Guaura we came to the town of Chancay ; and though the diftance between this is reckoned only twelve leagues, we concluded, by the time we were travelling, it to be at leaft fourteen. From an obfervation we found its latitude 1 1° 33' 47" 8. The town confifts of about three hundred houfes, and Indian huts ; is very populous, and among other inhabitants can boaft of many Spanifla families, and fome of diltinguiflied rank. Befides its parifh church, here is a convent of the order of St, Francis, and an hofpital chiefly fupported by the benevolence of the inhabitants. It is the* capital of the jurifdiftion of its name, and belongs to that of Guaura. 'I'he corregidor, whole ufual rcfidence is at Chancay, appoints a deputy for Guaura. The adjacent country is naturally very fertile, and every where well watered by canals cut from the river Paffamayo, which rims about a league and a half to the fouthward of the town. Thefe parts are every where fowed with maize, for the purpofe of fattening hogs, in which article is carried on a very confiderable trade ; the city of Lima being furnifhed from hence. We left Chancay the 17th ; and after travelling a league beyond the river Paffamayo, which we forded, arrived at the tambo of the fame name, fituated at the foot of a mountain of fand, exceeding tfoublefome, both on account of its length, fteepnefs, and difficulty in walking ; fo that it is generally pafled in the night, the foil not being then fo fatiguing. From ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. S^5 From thence on the i8th we reached Tanibo de Ynca, and after travelling twelve leagues from the town of Chancay, we had at length the pleafure of entering the city of Lima. From the diftances carefully fet down during the whole courfe of the journey, it appears that fromTumbez to Piura is fixty-two leagues, from Piura to Truxillo eighty- nine, and from Truxillo to Lima one hundred and thirteen ; in all two hundred and fixty-four leagues. The greateft part of this long journey is generally performed by night ; for the whole country being one continued fand, the reflection of the fun's rays is fo violent, that the mules would be overcome by the heat ; befides the want of water, herbage, and the like. Accordingly the road all along, is rather diftinguifhed by the bones of the mules which have funk under their burdens, than by any track or path. For notwithftanding they are continually paffing and re-paffing throughout the whole year, the winds quickly efface all the prints of their feet. This country is alfo fo bare, that when a fmall herb or fpring happens to be difcovered, it is a fure fign of being in the neighbourhood of houfes. For thefe ftand near rivers, the moifture of which fertilizes thefe arid waftes, fo that they produce that verdure not to be feen in the uninhabited parts : as they are fuch merely from their being deftitute of water j without which no creature can fubfift, nor any lands be improved. In the towns we met with plenty of all neceffary provisions ; as flefh, fowl, bread, fruits, and v/ine ; all extremely good, and at a reafonable price ; but the traveller is obliged to drefs his meat himfelf, if he has not fervants of his own to do it for him ; for in the greateft parts of the towns he will not ineet with any one inclinable to do him that piece of fervice, except in the larger cities where the mafters of inns furnilh the table. In the little towns, the inns, or rather lodging-houfes, afford nothing but Ihelter ; fo that travellers are not only put to the inconvenience of carrying water, wood and provifions, from one town to another, but alfo all kinds of kitchen utenfils. Befides tame fowl, pigeons, peacocks and geefe, which are to be purchafed in the meanell towns, all cultivated parts of this country abound in turtle-doves, which live entirely on maize and the feeds of trees, and multiply exceedingly ; fo that fliooting them is the ufual diverfion of travellers while they continue in any town ; but except thefe, and fome fpecies of fmall birds, no others are to be had during the whole jour- ney. On the other hand, no ravenous hearts, or venomous reptiles, are found here. The diftribution of waters by means of canals, which extend the benefit of the rivers to diftant parts of the country, owes its origin to the royal care and attention of the Yncas ^ who, among other marks of their zeal for promoting the happinefs of their fubjefts, taught them by this method, to procure from the earth, whatever was necef- fary either for their fubfiftence, or pleafure. Among thefe rivers, many are entirely dry or very low, when the waters ceafe to flow from the mountains ; but others, as thofe of Santa Baranca, Guaura, and Pafl'amayo, continue to run with a full ftream during the greateft drought. The ufual time when the water begins to increafe in thefe rivers is the beginning of January or February, and continues till June, which is the winter among the moun- tains ; and, on the contrary, the fummer in Valles ; in the former it rains, while in the latter the fun darts a violent heat, and the fouth winds are fcarce felt. From June the waters begin to decreafe, and in November or December the rivers are at their loweft ebb, or quite dry ; and this is the winter feafon in Valles, and the fummer in the mountains. So remarkable a difference is there in the temperature of the air, though at fo fmall a diftance. CHAP. ^S6 UIXOA's voyage to south AMERICA, CHAP III. — Account of the City of Lima, the Capital of Peru. FORTUITOUS events may fometimes, by their happy confequences, be claffed among premeditated defigns. Such was the unforefeen caufe which called us to Peru ; for otherwife the hiftory of our voyage would have been deprived of a great many remarkable and inftruftive particulars ; as our obfervations would have been limited to the province of Quito. But by this invitation of the viceroy of Peru, we are now enabled to lead the reader into that large and luxuriant field, the fertile province of Lima, and the fplendid city of that name, fo juftly made the capital of Peru, and the queen of all the cities in South America. It will alfo appear that our work would have fuftered a great imperfeftion, and the reader confequently difappointed in finding no account of thofe magnificent particulars, which his curiofity had doubtlefs promifed itfelf, from a defcription of this famous city, and an accurate knowledge of the capital province. Nor would it have been any fmall mortification to ourfelves, to have loft the opportunity of contemplating thofe noble objefts, which fo greatly increafe the value of our work, though already enriched with fuch aftronomical obfervations and nautical remarks, as we hope will prove agreeable to the intelligent reader. At the fame time it opens a method of extending our refearches into the other more diftant countries, for the farther utility and ornament of this voyage ; which, as it was founded on the moft noble principles, fhould be conduced and clofed with an uniform dignity. My defign however is not to reprefent Lima in its prefent fituation, as I fhould then, inftead of noble and magnificent objefts, introduce the moft melancholy and ftiock- ing fcenes ; ruinated palaces, churches, towers, and other ftately works of art, toge- ther with the inferior buildings of which this opulent city confifted, now thrown into ruin and confufion, by the tremendous earthquake of Oftober the 28th, 1746; the affefting account of which reached Europe with the fwiftnefs which ufually attends unfortunate advices, and concerning which, we ftiall be more particular in another place. I ftiall not therefore defcribe Lima, as wafted by this terrible convulfion of nature ; but as the emporium of this part of America, and endeavour to give the reader an idea of its former glory, magnificence, opulence, and other particulars which ren- dered it fo famous in the world, before it fufFered under this fatal cataftrophe ; the re- colleftion of which cannot fail of being painful to every lover of his country, and every perfon of humanity. The city of Lima, or as it is alfo called the city of the Kings, was, according to Garcilafo, in his hiftory of the Yncas, founded by Don Francifco Pizarro, on the feaft of the Epiphany, 1535; though others affirm that the firft ftone was not laid till the 1 8th of January that year ; and the latter opinion is confirmed by the ad, or record of its foundation, ftill preferved in the archives of that city. It is fituated in the fpacious and delightful valley of Rimac, an Indian word, and the true name of the city itfelf, from a corrupt pronunciation of which word the Spaniards have derived Lima. Rimac is the name by which both the valley and the river are ftill called. This appellation is derived from an idol to which the native Indians ufed to offer facri- fice, as did alfo the Yncas, after they had extended their empire hither ; and as it was fuppofed to return anfwers to the prayers addreffed to it, they called it by way of diftindion Rimac, or, he who fpeaks. Lima, according to feveral obfervations we made for that purpofe, ftands in the latitude of 12" 2' 31" S. and its longitude from the meridian of Teneriffe is 299' 27' 7!". The variation of tha needle of 9° 2' 30" eafterly. ^ Its ulloa's voyage to south ajierica. 567 Its fituation is one of the moft advantageous that can be imagined ; for being in the centre of that fpacious valley, it commands the whole without any difficulty. North- ward, though at a confiderable diftance, is the Cordillera, or chain of the Andes ; from whence Ibme hills projeft into the valley, the nearefl of which to the city are thofe of St. Chriftopher and A.nancaes. The perpendicular height of the former, according to a geometrical meufuration performed by Don George Juan, and M. de la Condamine in 1737, is one hundred and thirty-four toifes ; but Father Fevillee makes it one hundred and thirty-fix toifes and one foot, which difference doubtlefs proceeds from not having meafured with equal exaftnefs, the bafe on which both founded their calculations. The height of the Amancaes, is little lefs than the former, and fituated about a quarter of a league from the city. The river, which is of the fame name, wafhes the walls of Lima, and when not in- creafed by the torrents from the mountains is eafily forded ; but at other times, befides the increafe of its breadth, its depth and rapidity render fording impoffible ; and ac- cordingly a very elegant and fpacious flone bridge is built over it, having at one end a gate, the beautiful architedure over which is equal to the other parts of this ufeful flruflure. This gate forms the entrance into the city, and leads to the grand fquare, which is very large and finely ornamented. In the centre is a fountain, equally re- markable for its grandeur and capacity. In the centre is a bronze ftatue of Fame, and on the angles are four fmall bafons. The water is ejefted through the trumpet of the ftatue, and alfo through the mouths of eight lions which furround it, and greatly heighten the beauty of this work. The eaft fide of the fquare is filled by the cathedral and the archiepifcopal palace, whofe height furpaffes the other buildings in the city. Its principal foundations, and the bafes of its columns and pilafters, together with the capital front which faces the weft, are of freeftone ; the infide refembles that of Seville, but not fo large. The outfide is adorned with a very magnificent fa9ade or frontifpiece, rifing into two lofty towers, and in the centre is the grand portal. Round the whole runs a grand gallery, with a baluftrade of wood, refembling brals in colour, and at proper diftances are feveral pyramids, which greatly augment the magnificence of the ftrudure. In the north fide of the fquare is the viceroy's palace, in which are the feveral courts of juftice, together with the offices of revenue, and the ftate prifon. This was formerly a very remarkable building, both with regard to its largenefs and architecture, but the greateft part of it being thrown down by the dreadful earthquake with which the city was vifited, Odtober 20th, 1687, it now confifts only of fome of the lower apartments ereded on a terras, and is ufed as the refidence of the viceroy and his family. On the weft fide which faces the cathedral, is the council-houfe, and the city prifon j the fouth fide is filled with private houfes, having only one ftory ; but the fronts being of ftone, their uniformity, porticoes, and elegance, are a great embelliffiment to the fquare, each fide of which is eighty toifes. The form of the city is triangular, the bafe, or longeft fide, extending along the banks of the river. Its length is 1920 toifes, or exactly two-thirds of a league. Its greateft breadth from north to fouth, that is, from the bridge to the angle oppofite to the bafe, is 1080 toifes, or two-fifths of a league. It is furrounded with a brick wall, which anfwers its original intention, but is without any manner of regularity. This work was begun and finifhed by the Duke de la Plata, in the year 1685. It is flanked with thii ty-four baftions, but without platforms or embrafures ; the intention of it being merely to inclofe the city, and render it capable of fuftaining any fudden attack of the Indians. It has, in its whole circumference, feven gates and thret pofterns. On 568 ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. On the fide of the river oppofite to the city is a fuburb, called St. Lazaro, which has, within thefe few years, greatly increafed. All the ftreets of this fuburb, like thofe of the city, are broad, parallel, or at right angles, fome running from north to fouth, and others from eaft to weft, forming fquares of houfes, each one hundred and fifty yards in front, the ufual dimenfions of all thefe quadras or fquares in this country, whereas thofe of Quito are only one hundred. The ftreets are paved, and along them run ftreams of water, condufted from the river a little above the city ; and being- arched over contribute to its cleanlinefs, without the leaft inconveniency.- The houfes, though for the moft part low, are commodious, and make a good appearance. They are all of baxareque and quincha. They appear indeed to be com- pofed of more folid materials, both with regard to the thicknefs of the principal walls, and the imitation of cornices on them ; and that they may the better fupport themfelves under the fliocks of earthquakes, of which this city has had fo many dreadful inftances, the principal parts are of wood, mortifed into the rafters of the roof, and thofe which ferve for walls are lined both within and without with wild canes, and chaglias or ofiers ; fo that the timber-v/ork is totally enclofed. Thefe ofiers are plaiftered over with clay, and whitewaflied, but the fronts painted in imitation of free-ftone. They after- wards add cornices and porticos which are alfo painted of a ftone colour. Thus the whole front impofes on the fight, and ftrangers fuppofe them to be built of thofe ma- terials which they only imitate. The roofs are flat, and covered only fo far as is neceffary to keep out the wind and intercept the rays of the fun. The pieces of timber, of which the roofs are formed, and which on the infide are decorated with elegant mouldings and ocher ornaments, are covered with clay to preferve them from the fun. This flender covering is fuificient, as no violent rains are ever known here. Thus the houfes are in lefs danger than if built of more compaft materials ; for the whole build- ing yields 10 the motions of the earthquakes, and the foundations which are connefted with the feveral parts of the building follow the fame motion ; and by that means are not fo eafily thrown down. The wild canes, which ferve for the inner parts of the walls, refemble in length and bignefs thofe known in Europe, but without any cavity. The wood of them is very folid, and little fubjecl to rot. The chaglla is alfo a kind of fhrub growing wild in the forefts and on the banks of rivers. It is ftrong and flexible like the ofier. Thefe are the materials of which the houfes tn all the towns of Valles mentioned in the pre- ceding chapter, are built. Towards the eaft and weft parts of the city, but within the walls, are a great many fruit and kitchen gardens ; and moft of the principal houfes have gardens for enter- tainment, bemg continually refreflied with water by means of the canals. The whole city is divided into the five following parifties : i. Sagrario, which has three priefts. — 2. St. Ann, and 3. St. Sebaftian, each having two priefts. — 4. St. Marcelo, and 5. St. Lazaro, each of which has one prieft only. The parifti of the latter extends itfelf five leagues, namely, to the valley of Carabaillo, and to it belong the many large plantations in that fpace ; chapels are therefore erefted for celebrating mafs on days of precept, that the people may perform their duty without the fatigue and trouble of travelling to Lima. Here are alfo two chapels of eafe : that of St. Salvador, in the parifti of St. Ann ; and that of the Orphans, in the Sagrario. There is alfo in the Cercado, one of the quarters of the town, a parifli of Indians, under the care of the Jefuits. The convents here are very numerous ; four Dominicans, viz. La Cafa ^rande, Recolleccion de la Magdalena, the college of St. Thomas appropriated to literature, 2 and TJLLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 569 and Santa Rofa. Three of Francifcans, viz. Cafa Grande, Recoletos deNueftra Senora de los Angeles, or Gir.dalupe, and Los Defcalzos de San Diego : the latter is in the fuburb of San Lazaro. Three of the order of Auguflin, namely, Cafa Grande ; the feminary of San Ildefonfo, a literary college ; and the no\aciate at Nueftra Senora de Guia. Three alfo belong to the order of Mercy, namely, the Cafa Principal, the college of St. Pedro Nolafco, and a Recolleccion, called Bethlehem. The Jefuits have fix colleges or houfes, which are thofe of St. Paul, their principal college ; St. Martin, a college for fecular ftudents ; St. Anthony, a noviciate ; the Houfe of Poffefnon, or Defamparados, under the invocation of Nueftra Senora de los Dolores ; a college in the Circado, where the Indians are inftructed in the precepts of religion ; and that of the Chacarilla, appointed for the exercifes of St. Ignatius ; and accordingly all feculars, on their defire to perform them, are admitted. They are alfo allowed the liberty of beginning when moft convenient for themfelves, and are hand- fomely entertained by the college during the eight days of their continuance. But it muft be obferved, that of all thefe convents, the Cafas Grandes are now the moft confiderable ; the others, befides being fmall, have but few members^, and fmall revenues. Befides the preceding nineteen convents and colleges, here are alfo an oratory of St. Philip Neri ; a monaftery of the order of St. Benedift, with the title of Nueftra Senora de Monferrat, the abbe of which is commonly the only member, and fent from Spain ; and though this foundation is one of the moft ancient in the whole city, its revenue is hardly fufficient to fupport any more : a convent called Nueftra Senora de la Buena Muerte, or the order of that name, generally known by the name of Agonizantes. This order founded an hofpital in the cit)^, in 1715, under the particular dire£i:ion of the Fathers Juan Mugnos, and Juan Fernandez, who, with a lay brother of the fame order having in 1736 obtained a licence from the council of the Indies, went from Spain and founded a convent of community in every form. In the fuburb of St. La- zaro is alfo a convent of St. Francis de Paula, a modern foundation, under the name of Nueftra Senora del Scorro. There are alfo in Lima three other charitable foundations, namely, St. Juan de Dios, ferved by the religious of that order, and appropriated to the relief of perfons recover- ing from ficknefs ; and two of Bethlemites ; one of which, being the Cafa Grande, is without the city, and founded for the relief of fick Indians, who are taken care of in Santa Anna ; and the other within the city, called that of the Incurables, being appro- priated to perfons labouring under difeafes of that nature. The latter, as we have already obferved,* was founded fo early as the year 1671. This opulent city has alfo nine other hofpitals, each appropriated to fome peculiar charity : — 1. San Andres, a royal foundation admitting only Spaniards. 2. San Pedro, for poor ecclefiaftics. 3. El Efpiritu Santo, for mariners, and fupported by the ftiips belonging to thefe feas, their crews being properly affefled for that purpofe. 4. St. Bartholome, for the negroes. 5. Senora Santa Anna, for the Indians. 6. San Pedro de Alcantara, for women. 7. Another for that ufe, under the care of the Bethlemite fathers, erected before their Cafa Grande. * Chap. IV. Lib. V. VOL. XIV. 41) 8. La Syo LLLOA S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AJIERICA. 8. La Caridad, alfo for •women. 9. San Lazaro, for the lepers, which, with thofe already enunserateJ, make twelve. Here are alfo fourteen nunneries, the number of perfons in which would be fufficient to people a fmall town. The five firft are regulars, and the other nine recollects : I. La Encamation. — 2. La Conception. — 3. Santa Cathalina. — 4. Santa Clara. — 5. La Trinidad. — 6. El Carmen. — 7. Santa Terefa, 6 El Carmen baxo. — 8. Las Defcalzas de San Jofeph. — 9. Las Capuchinas. — 10. Las Nazarenas. — 11. LasMer- cidarias, — 12. Santa Rofa. — 13. Las Trinitarias Defcalzas. — 14. Las Monjas del Prado. Laflly, Here are four other conventual houfes, where fome few of the fifters are not reclufes, though moft of them obferve that rule. Thefe houfes are : I. Santa Rofa de Viterbo. — 2. Nueftra Senora del Patrocinio. — 3. Nueflra Senora de Capacabana, for Indian ladies. — 4. San Jofeph. The lall is a retreat for women who defire to be divorced from their hulbands. There is alfo a houfe conllituted in the manner of convents, for poor women, and under the direction of an ecclefiafUc appointed by the archbilhop, who is alfo their chaplain. The mofl numerous of all thefe nunneries are the Incarnation, Conception, Santa Clara, and Santa Cathalina. The others are indeed not fo large ; but the RecoUeSs, in the rectitude and auflerity of their lives, are an example to the whole cir\'. Here is alfo an orphan-houfe, di\'ided into mo colleges, one for the boys, and the other for the girls ; befides feveral chapels, in different parts of the city : but the fol- lowing lift will {hew at once, the parifhes, hofpitals, churches, and monafteries of Lima, which was always no lefs conipicucus with regard to a zeal for religion than for fplendour. Liji of the Parijhes, Convents of each Order, Hcfpitah, Nunneries, and Convenlual Houfes in Lima. Pari/hes, fix. Convents of San Domingo, four. — Of San Francis, three. — Of San Auguftin, three. — Of La Merced, three. Colleges cf Jefuits, fix. Oratory of St. Philip Neri, one. Monaftery of Benedictins, one. — Of San Frandfco de Paula, one. — Of Agoni- zantes, one. — Of San Juan de Dios, one. — Of Bethlemites, two. Nunneries of Regulars, five. — Of Recollects, nine. Conventual Houfes, four. — Houfes for poor women, one. — Orphan houfe, one. — Hofpitals, twelve. All the churches, both conventual and parochial, and alfo the chapels, are large, conftructed partly of ftone, and adorned with paintings and other decorations of great value; particularly the cathedral, the churches of St. Dominic, St. Francis, St. Au- guftin, the Fathers of Mercy, and that of the Jefuits, are fo fplendidly decorated, as to furpafs defcription, an idea being only to be formed by the fight. The riches and pomp of this city, efpecially on folemn feftivals, are aftoniihing. The altars, from 10 their ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA.' $yi their very bafes to the borders of the paintings, are covered with mafllve filver, wrought into various kinds of ornaments. The walls alfo of the churches are hung with velvet, or tapeftry of equal value, adorned with gold and filver fringes ; all which, in this country, is remarkably dear ; and on thefe are fplendid pieces of plate, in various figures. If the eye be directed from the pillars, walls, and ceiling, to the lower part of the church, it is equally dazzled vnth glittering objedls, prefenting themfelves on all fides : among which are candlefticks of mafTive filver, fix or feven feet high, placed in two rows along the nave of the church : emboffed tables of the fame metal, fup- porting fmaller candlefticks ; and in the intervals betwixt them pedeftals on which ftand the ftatues of angels. In fine, the whole church is covered vdth plate, or fome- thing equal to it in value ; fo that divine fervice, in thefe churches, is performed with a magnificence fcarce to be imagined ; and the ornaments, even on common days, with regard to their quantity and richnefs, exceed thofe which many cities of Europe pride themfelves with difplaying on the moft common occafions. If fuch immenfe riches are beftowed on the body of the church, how can imagina- tion itfelf form an idea of thofe more immediately ufed in divine worlhip, fuch as the facred veffels, the chalices, oftenforiums, &c. in the richnefs of which there is a fort of emulation between the feveral churches ? In thefe the gold is covered with diamonds, pearls, and precious ftones, fo as to dazzle the eye of the fpedlator. The gold and filver ftufFs for veftments and other decorations, are always of the richeft and moft va- luable among thofe brought over by the regifter Ihips. In fine, whatever is em- ployed in ornamenting the churches, is always the richeft of the kind poffible to be procured. The principal convents are very large, with convenient and airy apartments. Some parts of them, as the outward walls which inclofe them, are of unburnt brick ; but the building itfelf of quinchas or baxareques. The roofs of many are arched with brick, others only with quinchas ; but of fuch curious architecture, as entirely to conceal the materials ; fo that the frontifpieces and principal gates have a majeftic appearance. The columns, friezes, ftatues, and cornices, are of wood, finely carved, but fo nearly imi- tating the colour and appearance of ftone, as only to be difcovered by the touch. This ingenious imitation does not proceed from parfimony, but neceflity ; in order to avoid as much as poffible the dreadful devaftations of earthquakes, which will not admit of ftrudures built of pondrous materials. The churches are decorated with fmall cupolas of a very pretty appearance: and though they are all of wood, the fight cannot diftinguifh them from ftone. The towers are of ftone from the foundation the height of a toile and a half, or two toifes, and from thence to the roof of the church of brick, but the remainder of wood painted of a free- ftone colour, terminating in a ftatue, or image, alluding to the name of the church. The height of thefe may be nearly knovm from that of St. Dominic, which by a geo- metrical menfuration, we found to be between fifty and fixty yards ; a height which, though fmall in proportion to the largenefs of the ftrudure, is a neceflary caution, both with regard to the ftiocks of earthquakes, and the weight of the bells, which, in fize and number, exceed thofe of Spain, and, on a general ringing, produce a very agree- able harmony. All the convents are furniftied with water from the city, though not from that of the rivulets, which, as we before obferved, run through the ftreets in covered channels ; but brought from a fpring by means of pipes : while, on the other hand, both the mo- nafteries and nunneries are each obliged to maintain a fountain in the ftreet, for the public ufe of poor people, who have not the conveniency of water in their houfes. 4 D 2 The 572 ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. The viceroys, whofe power extends over all Peru, ufually refide at Lima : but the province and audience of Quito has been lately detached from it ; as we have obferved in our account of that province. This government is triennial, though, at the expira- tion of that term, the fovereign may prolong it. This office is of fuch importance, that the viceroy enjoys all the privileges of royalty. He is abfolute in all affairs, whether political, mihtary, civil, criminal, or relating to the revenue, having under him offices and tribunals for executing the feveral branches of government ; fo that the grandeur of this employment is in every particular equal to the title. For the fafety of his per- fon, and the dignity of his office, he has two bodies of guards ; one of horfe confift- ing of one hundred and fixty private men, a captain, and a lieutenant : their uniform is blue, turned up with red, and laced with filver. This troop confifts entirely of picked men, and all Spaniards. The captain's poft is efteemed very honourable. Thefe do duty at the principal gate of the palace ; and when the viceroy goes abroad, he is at- tended by a piquet-guard confiding of eight of thefe troopers. The fecond is that of the halberdiers, confifting of fifty men, all Spaniards, dreiTed in a blue uniform, and crimfon velvet waiftcoats laced with gold. Thefe do duty in the rooms leading to the chamber of audience, and private apartments. They alfo attend the viceroy when he appears in public, or vifits the offices and tribunals. The only officer of this body is a cap- tain, whofe poll is alfo reckoned very eminent. Both captains are nominated by the viceroy. Befides thefe, there is another guard within the palace, confifting of one hundred private men, a captain, lieutenant, and fub-lieutenant ; being a detachment from the garrifon of Callao. Thefe are occafionally employed in executing the go- vernor's orders, and the decrees of the tribunals, after they have received the fandion. of his aflent. The viceroy, befides affifting at the courts of juftice, and the councils relating both to the finances and war, gives every day public audience to all forts of perfons ; for which purpofe, there aie in the palace three very grand and fpacious rooms. In the firft, which is adorned with the portraits of all the viceroys, he receives the Indians and other cafts. In the fecond, he gives audience to the Spaniards ; and, in the third, where under a rich canopy are placed the piftures of the King and Oueen then reign- ing, he receives thofe ladies who defire to fpeak to him in private without being known. The affairs relating to the government are expedited by a fecretary of ftate, with an affiftant, properly qualified for fuch an arduous poft. From this office are iiTued the orders for paffports, which muft be had from every corregidor in his jurifdiftion. The fecretary has alfo the power of filling all juridical employments as they become vacant, for the term of two years ; as alfo thofe of the magiftracy, who, at the expiration of their term, have not been replaced by others of His Majefty's nomination. In a word, this office may be faid to be the channel by which all affairs relating both to war and government are tranfafted. All caufes relating to juftice are tried in the court called the Audiencia, from the de- crees of which there is no appeal to the fupreme council of the Indies, unlefs after no- torious injuftice, or a fecond trial ; as the viceroy himfelf prefides in it. The audiencia, which is the chief court at Lima, is compofed of eight auditors or judges, and a fifcal for civil caufes. This court is held in the viceroy's palace, in the three faloons appro- priated to it. In one the deliberations are held, and in the other two, the caufes are tried either publicly or privately, the fenior judge always prefiding. Criminal caufes are tried in % fourth apartment, the judges being four alcaldes of the court, and a I criminal ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA, 573 criminal fifcal. There is alfo a fifcal proteftor of the Indians, and fome fuper- numeraries. Next to the tribunal of audience is the chamber of accounts, confifting of a com- miflioner, five chief accountants, two receivers, and two direftors, with other inferior officers belonging to each clafs. Here all corregidors, intruded to colled the revenue, pafs their accounts. Here alfo the diftributions and managements of the royal revenue are regulated. Laftly, the royal treafury, under a treafurer, accountant, and agent, who have the fuperintendance of all His Majefty's revenue of what kind foever ; fmce whatever re- venue arifes from the other parts of this province is remitted to Lima as the capital of the Idngdoni. The corporation of Lima confifts of regidores or aldermen, and alfere zreal, or fhe- riff, and two alcaldes, or royal judges ; all being noblemen of the firfl diftindion in the city. Thefe have the direftion of the police, and the ordinary adminiftration of juftice. The alcaldes prefide alternately every month ; for, by a particular privilege of this city, the jurifdidion of its corregidor extends only to the Indians. Here is a court for the effects of deceafed perfons, which takes cognizance of the goods of thofe dying inteftate, and without lawful heir ; and likewife of thofe entrufted with the effefts of other perfons. Its confifts of a judge, who is generally one of the auditors, a counfellor, and an accountant. The next tribunal is that of commerce, or the confulado. Its principal officers are a prefident and two confuls. All who are entered in the lift of merchants are members of it, and have a vote in the choice of thefe officers, who, with an afl'effor, decide all commercial difputes and procefles, by the fame rule as the confulados at Cadiz and Bilboa. Lima has alfo a corregidor, whofe jurifdiction extends to all Indians both within the city and five leagues round it. The principal places in this jurifdi£tion are Surco, Los Chorillos, Miraflores, La Magdalena, Lurigancho, Late, Pachacama, and Lurin, to- gether with the Indian inhabitants of the two fuburbs of Callao, called New and Old Pitipiti. The infinite number of Indians who inhabited this valley before and at the time of the conqueft, are now reduced to the few inhabitants of the above-mentioned places ; and have only two caziques, namely, thofe of Miraflores and Surco, and thefe in fuch low circumftances, as to teach mufic at Lima for fubfiftence. The cathedral chapter, befides the archbifliop, confifts of the dean, archdeacon, chanter, treafurer, and reftor, four canons by fuffrage, five by prefentation, fix pre- bendaries, and fix femi-prebendaries ; but the ecclefiaftical tribunal confifts only of the archbiftiop and his chancellor. His fuffragans are the bilhops of Panama, Quito, Truxillo, Guamanga, Arequipa, Cuzco, St. Jago, and Conception ; the two laft are in the kingdom of Chili. The tribunal of inquifition confifts of two inquifitors and a fifcal, who, like the fub- ordinate officers are nominated by the inquifitor-general ; and, in cafe of a vacancy, filled up by the fupreme council of the inquifition. The tribunal of the Cruzada is conduced by a fub-delegate commiflary, an acount- ant, and treafurer, with other inferior officers. But the dean or fenior judge of the audience, generally affifts at its deliberations. Laftly, here is alfo a mint with its proper officers, where gold and filver are coined. In the univerfity and colleges, the happy geniufes of the natives are improved by divine and human learning, and, as we Ihall fhew in the fequel, foon give elegant fpe- cimens 574 ulloa's voyage to south America. cimens of their future acquifitions. They are in this much more indebted to nature than either to art or to their own application ; and if they do not equally diftinguifli them- felves in other ftudies, it is not for want of talents, but of proper perfons to inftrufl: them in the neceflary elements. For by their ready comprehenfion of whatever is taught them we may conclude, that their abilities are equal to other improvements. The chief of thefe feminaries is the univerfity of St. Mark, and the colleges of St. Toribio, St. Martin, and St. Philip. In the former are chairs for all the fciences, and filled by fuffrage ; a method always favourable for perfons of learning and underllanding. Some ot thefe profelTors have, notwithftanding the vail diftance, gained the applaufe of the literati of Europe. The univerfity makes a ftately appearance without, and its infide is decorated with fuitable ornaments. It has a large fquare court, with a handfome vaulted piazza round it. Along the fides are the halls, where ledtures are read 5 and in one of its angles is the theatre for the public arts, adorned with the portraits of the feveral great men who had their education in this feat of learning, in frames finely ornamented with fculpture, and richly gilded ; as are alfo the two rows of feats which extend entirely round the theatre. From what has been faid it fufficiently appears, that Lima is not only large, magnifi- cent, and diftinguifhed, as the capital of the kingdom, by the refidence of the viceroy, and the fuperior courts and offices, but alfo that it has an acknowledged fuperiority over the other cities in thefe parts from the public nurferies erefted for the advancement of learning and the fciences. The richnefs of the churches, and the fplendour with which divine fervice is per- formed, we have already defcribed. The magnificence of its inhabitants and of its pub- lic folemnities are proportional, and dilplayed with a dignity peculiar to minds inflamed with a defire of honour, and who value themfelves on celebrating the principal folemni- ties in a manner which diftinguiflies Lima from the other cities of its kingdom ; though the latter are not wanting in their endeavours to vie with their capital. Of all the folemnities obferved in America, the public entrance of the viceroy is the moft fplendid ; and in which the amazing pomp of Lima is particularly difplayed. No- thing is feen but rich coaches and calalhes, laces, jewels, and fplendid equipages, in w^hich the nobility carry their emulation to an aftonilhing height. In a word, this cere- mony is fo remarkable, that I flatter myfelf the reader will not be difpleafed at the de- fcription. * CHAP. IV. — Of the Public Entrance of the Viceroy at Lima ; his Receptioti, and the chief annual Solemnities. ON the landing of the viceroy at Paita, two hundred and four leagues from Lima, he fends a perfon of great diflinftion, generally fome officer of his retinue, to Lima, with the charafter of an ambaflador ; and, by a memoir, informs his predeceflbr of his arrival, in conformity to His Majefliy's orders, who had been pleafed to confer on him the government of that kingdom. On this ambaffador's arrival at Lima, the late vice- roy fends a melTenger to compliment him on his fafe arrival ; and on difmiffing the am- bafliador, prefents him with fome jewel of great value, and a jurifdiftion or two which happen at that time to be vacant, together with an indulgence of officiating by deputy, if mod agreeable to him. The corregidor of Piura receives the new viceroy at Paita, and provides litters, mules, and every other neceflary for the viceroy and his retinue, as far as ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. 575 as the next jurlfdi£tion. He alfo orders booths to be built at the halting-places in the deferts ; attends him in perfon, and defrays all the expences, till relieved by the next corregidor. Being at length arrived at Lima, he proceeds, as it were incognito, through the city to Callao, about two leagues and a half diftant. In this place he is received and acknowledged by one of the ordinary alcaldes of Lima, appointed for that purpofe, and alfo by the military officers. He is lodged in the viceroy's palace, which on this occafion is adorned with aftonifhing magnificence. The next day all the courts, fecular and ec- clefiaftical, wait on him from Lima, and he receives them under a canopy in the foUow-- ing order. The audiencia, the chamber of accounts, the cathedral chapter, the msgif- tracy, the confulado, the inquifition, the tribunal de Cruzada, the fuperiors of the reli- gious orders, the colleges, and other perfons of eminence. On this day the judges at- tend the viceroy to an entertainment given by the alcalde ; and all perfons of note take a pride in doing the like to his attendants. At night there is a play, to which the ladies are admitted veiled, and in their ufual drefs, to fee the new viceroy. The fecond day after his arrival at Callao, he goes in a coach provided for him by the city, to the chapel de la Legua, fo called from its being about half-way between Callao and Lima, where he is met by the late viceroy, and both alighting from their coaches, the latter delivers to him a truncheon as the enfign of the government of the kingdom. After this, and the ufual compliments, they feparate. If the new viceroy intends to make his public entry into Lima in a few days, he re- turns to Callao, where he flays till the day appointed ; but as a longer fpace is generally allowed for the many preparatives necelTary to fuch a ceremony, he continues his jour- ney to Lima, and takes up his refidence in his palace, the fitting up of which on this occafion is committed to the junior auditor, and the ordinary alcalde. On the day of public entry, the ftreets are cleaned, and hung with tapeftry, and magnificent triumphal arches eredled at proper diftances. At two in the afternoon the viceroy goes privately to the church belonging to the monaftery of Montferrat, which is feparated by an arch and a gate from the ftreet, where the cavalcade is to begin. As foon as all who are to afTifl in the procefTion are afl'embled, the viceroy and his retinue mount on horfes, provided by the cit)' for this ceremony, and the gates being thrown open, the proceflion begins in the following order : The militia ; the colleges ; the univerfity, with the profefTors in their proper habits ; the chamber of accompts ; the audiencia on horfes, with trappings ; the magiflracy, in crimfon velvet robes, lined with brocade of the fame colour, and a particular kind of caps on their heads, a drefs only ufed on this occafion. Some members of the corpo- ration who walk on foot, fupport the canopy over the viceroy ; and the two ordinary alcaldes, which are in the fame drefs, and walk in the proceflion, acl as equerries, hold- ing the bridle of his horfe. This part of the ceremony, though prohibited by the laws of the Indians, is ftill performed in the manner I have defcribed ; for the cuflom being of great antiquity, the magiflrates have not thought proper to alter it, that the refpeft to the viceroy might not fuffer any diminution, and no perfon has yet ventured to be the firfl in refufing to comply with it. This proceffion is of coniiderable length, the viceroy paffing through feveral ftreets till he comes to the great fquare, in which the whole company draw up facing the cathe- dral, where he alights, and is received by the archbifhop and chapter. Te Deum is then fung before the viceroy, and the officers placed in their refpetfive feats ; after which he again mounts his horfe, and proceeds to the palace gate, where he is received by the audiencia, and conducted to an apartment in w^hich a fplendid coUatisn is provided, as are alfo others for the nobility in the antichambers. On 57^ ulloa's voyage to socth America. On the morning of the following day he returns to the cathedral in his coach, with the retinue and pomp ufual in folemn feflivals and public ceremonies. He is pre- ceded by the whole troop of horfe-guards, the members of the feveral tribunals in their coaches, and after them the viceroy himfelf with his family, the company of halberdiers bringing up the rear. On this occafion all the riches and ornaments of the church are difplayed ; the archbilTiop celebrates in his pontifical robes the mafs of thankfgiving ; and the fermon is preached by one of the bed orators of the chapter. From hence the viceroy returns to the palace attended by all the nobility, who omit nothing to make a fplendid figure on thefe occafions. In the evening of this, and the two following days, the collations are repeated, with all the plenty and delicacy imaginable. To increafe the feftivity, all women joi credit have free accefs to the halls, galleries, and gardens of the palace, when they are fond of fhewing the difpofitions of their genius, either by the vi- vacit)' of repartees, or fpirited converfations, in which they often filence ftrangers of very ready wit. This fhew and ceremony is fucceeded by bull-feafts at the city's expence, which con- tinue five days ; the three firfl for the viceroy, and the two latter in compliment to the ambaflador who brought advice of his arrival, and the great honour conferred on him by the fovereign in the government of this kingdom. This ambaflador, who, as I before obferved, is always a perfon of eminent quality, makes alfo a public entrance into Lima on horfeback on the dav of his arrival, and the nobility being informed of his approach, go otlt to receive and conduct him to the palace, from whence they carr)' him to the lodgings prepared for him. This ceremony ufed to be immediately followed by feafts and public diverfions ; but in order to avoid that in- convenience, juft when the cit\' is every where bufied in preparing for the reception of the vicerov, they are deferred, and given at one and the fame time, as above recited. The buU-feafls are fucceeded by that ceremony, in which the univerfitv, the colleges, the convents and nunneries, acknowledged him as their viceroyal protector. This is alfo accompanied with great fplendour, and valuable prizes are beftowed on thofe who make the moft ingenious compofitions in his praife. Thefe ceremonies, which greatly heighten the magnificence of this city, are fo little known in Europe, that I fhall be ex- cufed for enlarging on them. They are begun by the univerfity, and the rector prepares a poetical conteft, adapted to difplay either the \v\i or learning of the competitors. After publifliing the themes, and the prizes to be given to thofe who bert: handle the fubjects thev have chofen, he waits on the viceroy to know \\ hen he will be pleafed to honour the univerfity with his prefence ; and, the time being fixed, every part of the principal court is adorned with the utmoft magnificence. The prizes, which are placed in order, diftinguifli themfelves by their richnefs, while the pillars and columns are hung with emblematical devices, or pertinent apophthegms on polifhed ftiields, furrounded by the moft beautirul mouldings. The reception is in the following order. On the viceroy's entering the court, he is conduced to the rectorial chair, which, on this occafion, gUtters with the magnificence of an Eaftem throne. Oppofite to it fits the rector, or, in his abfence, one of the moft eminent members of that learned body, who makes a fpeech, in which he ex- prefles the fatisfaftion the whole univerfity feels in fuch a patron. After this the vice- roy returns to his palace, where, the day following, the rettor prefents him with a book, containing the poetical conteft, bound in velvet, and plated at the corners with gold, accompanied with fome elegant piece of furniture, whofe value is never lefs than eight hundred 'cr a thoufand crowns. The ULLOA S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. 577 The principal end of the univerfity in this ceremony being to ingratiate itfelf with the, viceroy and his family, the reftor contrives that the poetical pieces which gain the prizes be made in the name of the principal perfons of his family, and accordingly the moft dif- tinguifhed prizes are prefented to them ; and there being twelve fubjefts in the conteft, there are three prizes for each, of which the two inferior fall to thofe members whofe compofitions are moft approved of. Thefe prizes are pieces of plate, valuable botli for their weight and workmanfhip. The univerfity is followed by the colleges of St. Philip and St. Martin, with the fame ceremonies, except the poetical conteft. Next follow the religious orders, according to the antiquity of their foundation in the Indies. Thefe prefent to the viceroy the beft thefes maintained by ftudents at the public afts. The viceroy is prefent at them all, and each difputant pays him fome elegant compli- ment, before he enters on his fubjeft. The fuperiors of the nunneries fend him their congratulatory compliments, and when he is pleafed in return to vifit them, they entertain him with a very fine concert of mufic, of which the vocal parts are truly charming ; and at his retiring they prefent him with fome of the chief curiofities which their refpeftive inftitutes allow to be made by them. Befides thefe feftivities and ceremonies, which are indeed the moft remarkable, there are alfo others, fome of which are annual, in which the riches and liberality of the in- habitants are no lefs confpicuous. Particularly on New-year's day, at the eledion of al- caldes, who being afterwards confirmed by the viceroy, appear publicly on horfeback the fame evening, and ride on each fide of him, in very magnificent habits ornamented with jewels, and the furniture of their horfes perfectly anfwerable. This cavalcade is very pompous, being preceded by the two companies of horfe-guards, the halberdiers, followed by the members of the tribunals in their coaches, the viceroy's retinue, and the nobility of both faxes. On Twelfth day in the morning, and the preceding evening, the viceroy rides on horfeback through the town, with the royal ftandard carried in great pomp before him. This is performed in commemoration of the building of the; city, which, as we have al- ready obferved, was begun on this day ; folemn vefpers are fung in the cathedral, and a mafs celebrated ; and the ceremony is concluded with a cavalcade, like that on New- year's day. The alcaldes chofen for the current year give public entertainments in their houfes, each three nights fucceflively ; but that the feafts of one might not interfere with thofe of another, and occafion refentments, they agree for one to hold his feafts the three days immediately fucceeding the eledion, and the other on Twelfth day and the two following. Thus each has a great number of guefts, and the entertainments are more fplendid and fumptuous. The other feafts in the courfe of the year are not inferior to thefe either with regard to numbers or expence ; at leaft the number of them muft ex- cite a high idea of the wealth and magnificence of Lima. CHAP. V. — Of the Inhabitants of Lima. HAVING, in our accounts of feveral towns through which we paffed to Lima, in- cluded alfo the inhabitants, we ftiall obferve the fame rule with regard to Lima ; for though amidft fuch an infinite variety of cuftoms, there is always fome refemblance be- voL. XIV. 4 E tween 578 ULLOA*S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. tween thofe of neighbouring people, yet the difference is alfo confiderable, and nowhere more fo than on this continent, where it doubtlefs arifes from the great diftance between the feveral towns ; and, confequently, I may fay, from the different geniufes and difpo- fitions of the people. And though Lima is the capital of the country, it will appear that it is not a model to other places, with regard to drefs, cuftoms, and manner of living. The inhabitants of Lima are compofed of whites, or Spaniards, Negroes, Indians, Meftizos, and other cafts, proceeding from the mixture of all three. The Spanilh families are very numerous ; Lima according to the lowefl computation, containing fixteen or eighteen thoufand whites. Among thefe are reckoned a third or fourth part of the moll diftinguifhed nobility of Peru ; and many of thefe dignified with the ftyle of ancient or modern Caflilians, among which are no lefs than forty-five counts and marquifes. The number of knights belonging to the feveral military orders is alfo very confiderable. Befides thefe are many families no lefs refpetlable, and living in equal fplendour ; particularly twenty-four gentlemen of large eftates, but without titles, though moft of them have ancient feats, a proof of the antiquity of their families. One of thefe traces, with undeniable certainty, his defcent from the Yncas. The name of this family is Ampuero, fo called from one of the Spanifh commanders at the conquefl: of this country, who married a Coya, or daughter of the Ynca. To this family the kings of Spain have been pleafed to grant feveral diflinguilhing honours and privileges, as marks of its great quality : and many of the moft eminent families in the city have defired intermarriages with it. All thofe families live in a manner becoming their rank, having eftates equal to their generous difpofitions, keeping a great number of flaves and other domeftics, and thofe who affeft making the greateft figure have coaches, while others content themfelves with calafties or chaifes, which are here fo common, that no family of any fubftance is without one. It muft be owned that thefe carriages are more neceffary here than in other cities, on account of the numberlefs droves of mules which continually pafs through Lima, and cover the ftreets with their dung, which being foon dried by the fun and the wind, turns to a naufeous dirt, fcarce fupportable to thofe who walk on foot. Thefe chaifes, which are drawn by a mule, and guided by a driver, have only two wheels, with two feats oppofite to each other, fo that on occafion they will hold four perfons. They are very flight and airy ; but on account of the gildings and other decorations, fometimes coft eight hundred or a thoufand crowns. The num- ber of them is faid to amount to five or fix thoufand ; and that of coaches is alfo very confiderable, though not equal to the former. The funds to fupport thefe expences, which in other parts would ruin families, are their large eftates and plantations, civil and military employments, or commerce, which is here accounted no derogation to families of the greateft diftinftion ; but by this commerce is not to be underftood the buying and felling by retail or in fhops, every one trading proportional to his charafter and fubftance. Hence families are preferved fi-om thofe difafters too common in Spain, where titles are frequently found without a fortune capable of fupporting their dignity. Commerce is fo far from being confidered as a difgrace at Lima, that the greateft for- tunes have been raifed by it ; thofe on the contrary, being rather defpifed, who not being bleffed with a fufficient eftate, through indolence, negleft to have recourfe to it for improving their fortunes. This cuftom, or refource, which was eftabliftied there without any determinate end, being introduced by a vain defire of the firft Spaniards to acquire wealth, is now the real fupport of that fplendour in which thofe families live j and whatever repugnance thefe military gentlemen might originally have to commerce, II it was ULLOa's voyage to south AlWERICA. 579 it was immediately removed by a royal proclamation, by which it was declared that com- merce in the Indies fliould not exclude from nobility or the military orders ; a very wife meafure, and of which Spain would be ftill more fenfible, were it extended to all its dependencies. At Lima, as at Quito, and all Spanifli America, fome of the eminent families have been long fince fettled there, whilfl the profperity of others is of a later date ; for being the centre of the whole commerce of Peru, a greater number of Europeans refort to it, than to any other city ; fome for trade, and others from being invefled in Spain with confiderable employments : among both are perfons of the greatefl merit ; and though many after they have finifhed their refpeSive affairs, return home, yet the major part, induced by the fertility of the foil, and the goodnefs of the climate, remain at Lima, and marry young ladies remarkable equally for the gifts of fortune as thofe of nature j and thus new families are continually fettled. The Negroes, Mulattoes, and their defcendants, form the greater number of the inha- bitants ; and of thefe are the greateft part of the mechanics ; though here the Euro- peans alfo follow the fame occupations, which are not at Lima reckoned difgraceful to them, as they are at Quito ; for gain being here the univerfal paffion, the inhabitants purfue it by means of any trade, without regard to its being followed by Mulattoes, intereft here preponderating againft any other confideration. The third, and lafl clafs of inhabitants, are Indians and Meftizos, but thefe are very fmall in proportion to the largenefs of the city, and the multitudes of the fecond clafs. They are employed in agriculture, in making earthenware, and bringing all kinds of provifions to market, domeftic fervices being performed by Negroes and Mulattoes, either flaves or free, though generally by the former. The ufual drefs of the men differs very little from that worn in Spain, nor is the dif- tinftion between the feveral claffes very great ; for the ufe of all forts of cloth being allowed, every one wears what he can purchafe. So that it is not uncommon to fee a Mulatto, or any other mechanic, dreffed in a tiffue equal to any thing that can be worn by a more opulent perfon. They all greatly affe£t fine cloaths, and it may be laid with- out exaggeration, the finefl fluffs made in countries, where induflry is always inventing fomething new, are more generally feen at Lima than in any other place ; vanity and oftentation not being reftrained by cuflom or law. Thus the great quantities brought in the galleons and regifter fhips, notwithllanding they fell here prodigioufly above their prime coft in Europe, the richefl of them are ufed as cloaths, and worn with a careleff- nefs little fuitable to their extravagant price ; but in this article the men are greatly ex- ceeded by the women, whofe paffion for drefs is fuch as to deferve a more particular account. In the choice of laces, the women carry their tafte to a prodigious excefs ; nor is this an emulation confined to perfons of quality, but has fpread through all ranks, except the loweft clafs of Negroes. The laces are fewed to their linen, which is> of the fineft fort, though very little of it is feen, the greateft part of it, efpecially in fome dreffes, being always covered with lace ; fo that the little which appears feems rather for orna- ment than ufe. Thefe laces too muff be all of Flanders manufacture, no woman of rank condefcending to look on any other. Their drefs is very different from the European, which the cuftom of the country alone can render excufable ; indeed to Spaniards at their firft coming over it appears extremely indecent. Their drefs confifts of a pair of fhoes, a Ihift, a petticoat of dimi- ty, an open petticoat, and a jacket, which in fummer is of linen, in winter of fluff. To 4 £ 2 thiSf 580 ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. this, fome add a mantelette, that the former may hang loofe. The difference between this drefs and that worn at Quito, though confifting of the fame pieces, is, that at Lima it is much fliorter, the petticoat, which is ufually tied below the waift, not reaching lower than the calf of the leg, from whence, nearly to the ancle, hangs a border of very fine lace, fewed to the bottom of the under petticoat ; through which the ends of their garters are difcovered, embroidered with gold or filver, and fometimes let with pearls ; but the latter is not common. The upper petticoat, which is of velvet, ,or fome rich fluff", is fringed all round, and not lefs crowded with ornaments than thofe defcribed in the firll volume of this work. But be the ornaments what they will, whether of fringe, lace, or ribands, they are always exquifitely fine. The fliift fleeves, which are a yard and a half in length, and two yards in width, when worn for ornament, are covered with rolls of lace, variegated in fuch a manner as to render the whole truly elegant. Over the fliift is worn the jacket, the fleeves of which are exceflively large, of a circular figure, and confift: of rows of lace, or flips of cambric or lawn, with lace difpofed betwixt each, as are alfo the fliift fleeves, even of thofe who do not affeft extraordinary orna- ment. The body of the jacket is tied on the flioulders with ribands fafl:ened to the back of their fl:ays ; and the round fleeves of it being tucked up to the flioulders, are fo difpofed together with thofe of the fliift, as to form what may be termed four wings. If the jacket be not buttoned or clafped before, it is agreeably faftened on the flioulders ; and indeed the whole drefs makes a mofl: elegant figure. They who ufe a clofe veil, faften it with clafps, but wear over it the loofe jacket already defcribed. In the fummer they have a kind of veil, the fliuff" and faftiion of which is like that of the fliift and body of the veil, of the finell cambric or lawn, richly laced ; but in winter the veil worn in their houfes is of bays ; when they go abroad full dreifed, it is adorned like the fleeves. They alfo ufe brown bays, finely laced and fringed, and bordered with flips of black velvet. Over the petticoat is au apron of the fame fluff" as the fleeves of the jacket, hanging down to the bottom of it. From hence fome idea may be formed of the expence of a drefs, where the much greater part of the fl:uff" is merely for ornament ; nor will it appear flrange, that the marriage fliift fliould coll a thoufand crowns, and fometimes more. One particular on which the women here extremely value themfelves, is the fize of their feet, a fniall foot being efteemed one of the chief beauties ; and this is the prin- cipal fault they find with the Spanifh ladies, who have much larger feet than thofe of Lima. From their infancy they are accuflomed to wear flrait fhoes, that their feet may not grow beyond the fize which they efteem beautiful j fome of them do not exceed five inches and a half, or fix inches in length, and in women of a fmall flature they are llill lefs. Their fhoes have little or no fole, one piece of cordovan ferving both for that and the upper leather, and of an equal breadth and roundnefs at the toe and heel, fo as to form a fort of long figure of 8 : but the foot not complying with the figure, brings it to a greater regularity. Thefe fhoes are always faftened with diamond buckles, or fomething very brilliant in proportion to the ability of the Wearer, being worn lefs for ufe than ornament ; for the fhoes are made in fuch a manner, that they never loofen of themfelves, nor do the buckles hinder their being taken off". It is unufual to fet thefe buckles with pearls, a particular to be accounted for only from their being fo lavilh of them in the other ornaments of drefs, as to confider them of too little value. The fhoemakers, who are no flrangers to the foible of the fex, take great care to make them in a manner very little calculated for fervice. The ufual price is three half-crowns a pair ; thole embroidered with gold or filver cofl from eight to ten crowns. The latter ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. 58 1 latter however, are but little worn, the encumbrance of embroidery being fuited rather to enlarge than diminifli the appearance of a fmall foot. * Tliey are fond of white filk. {lockings, made extremely thin, that the leg may appear the more Ihapely ; the greateft part of which is expofed to view. Thefe trifles often afford very fprightly fallies of wit in their animadverfions on the drefs of others. Hitherto we have confidered only the more common drefs of thefe ladies ; the reader will conceive a ftill higher idea of their magnificence, when he is informed of the ornaments with which they are decorated in their vifits, and upon public occafions. We fhall begin with their manner of dreffmg the hair, which being naturally black, and capable of reaching below their waifts, they difpofe in fuch a manner as to appear perfeftly graceful. They tie it up behind in fix braided locks, through which a gol- den bodkin, a little bent, is inferted, and having a clufi:er of diamonds at each end. On this the locks are fufpended fo as to touch the flioulder. On the front and upper part of the head they wear diamond aigrets, and the hair is formed into little curls, hanging from the forehead to the middle of the ear, with a large black patch of velvet on each temple. Their ear-rings are of brilliants, intermixed with tufts of black filk, covered with pearls, refembling thofe already defcribed. Thefe are fo common an ornament, that befides their necklaces, they alfo wear about their neck rofaries, the beads of which are of pearls, either feparate or fet in clufters to the fize of a large filbert ; and thofe which form the crofs are ftill larger. Befides diamong rings, necklaces, girdles, and bracelets, all very curious both with regard to water and fize, many ladies wear other jewels fet in gold, or for fingularity's fake, in tombago. Laftly, from their girdle before is fufpended a large round jewel enriched with diamonds : much more fuperb than their bracelets, or other ornaments. A lady covered with the moft expenfive lace inftead of linen, and glittering from head to foot with jewels, is fuppofed to be dreffed at the expence of not lefs than thirty or forty thoufand crowns ; a fplendour ftill the more aftonilhing, as it is fo very common. A fondnefs for expence in thefe people, does not confine itfelf to rich apparel ; it appears no lefs in the ftrange negleft, and the fmall value, they feem to fet upon them, by wearing them in a manner the moft carelefs, and by that means bringing upon themfelves frefh expences in repairing the old or purchafing new jewels ; efpecially pearls, on account of their fragility. The moft common of the two kinds of dreffes worn when they go abroad, is the veil and long petticoat ; the other is a round petticoat and mantelette : the former for church, the latter for taking the air, and diverfions ; but both in the prevailing tafte for expence, being richly embroidered with filver or gold. The long petticoat is particularly worn on Holy Thurfday ; as on that day they vifit the churches, attended by two or three female Negro or Mulatto flaves, dreffed in an uniform like pages. + With regard to the perfons of the women of Lima, they are in general, of a middling ftature, handfome, genteel, and of very fair complexions without the help of art ; the * AH thofe who can afford them wear (hoes made in the European manner, but with heels of wrought filver ; the tinkling of which, added to the fmalliiefs of their feet, has really, at lealt to the weather- beaten fealor, fomething captivating. ^. ■j- The lower clafs of women, whofe whole (lock of apparel fcldom confifts of more than two camifas (fhifts) and a faya (petticoat), wear bracelets, rofaries, and fmall golden images about their necks and arms, to the intrinlic value of fifty or fixty crowns, and to them of much greater value, having coft near that fum in benediftion from the priefts, without which the images, &c. would be efteemed pollutions. A. beauty 582 ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. beauty of their hair has been already mentioned, but they have ufually an enchanting luftre and dignity in their eyes. Thefe perfonal charms are heightened by thofe of the mind ; clear and comprehen- five intelleds : an eafinefs of behaviour, fo well tempered, that whilft it invites love, it commands refpedl : the charms of their converfation are beyond expreffion ; their ideas juft, their expreffions pure, their manner inimitably graceful. Thefe are the allurements by which great numbers of Europeans, forgetting the fair profpefts they have at home, are induced to marry and fettle here. One material objedion againft them is, that being too well acquainted with their own excellences, they are tainted with a haughtinefs, which will fcarce ftoop to the will of their hufbands. Yet by their addrefs and infmuating compliance, they fo far gain the afcendancy over them, as to be left to their own difcretion. There may, indeed, a few exceptions be found ; but thefe poffibly are rather owing to a want of capacity. Another objedion may be made to their being more expenfive than other ladies ; but this arifes from the exorbitant price of ftuffs, laces, and other commodities, in this country. And with regard to the independence they affed, it is no more than a cuftom long eflablifhed in the country. To which may be added, that being natives, and their hufbands generally foreigners, it is very natural, that the latter fhould not enjoy all that authority, founded on laws fuperior to cuftom ; and hence this error remains uncorredled. The hufbands conform to the manners of the country, as their charafter is not in the leaft afFeded thereby ; and this complaifance is rewarded by the difcretion and affedion of their ladies, which are not to be paralleled in any other part of the world. They are fo exceffively fond of perfumes, that they always carry ambergrife about them ; putting it behind their ears, and other parts of the body ; and alfo in feveral parts of their clothes. Not content with the natural fragrancy of flowers, which are alfo a favourite ornament, they fcatter perfumes even on their nofegays. The moft beautiful flowers they place in their hair, and others, which are moft valuable for their odour, they ftick in their fleeves ; ' the eflluvia therefore iffuing from thefe ladies, the reader will conceive to reach to no inconfiderable diftance. The flower moft in ufe is the chirimoya, of mean appearance, but of exquifite fcent. To this paflion for flowers it is owing, that the grand fquare, every morning, on account of the vaft quantity of beautiful vegetables brought thither, has the appearance of a fpacious garden. The fmell and the fight are there fuiKciently gratified. The ladies refort thither in their calaflies, and if their fancy happens to be pleafed, they make but little difficulty with regard to the price. A Itranger has the pleafure of fee- ing aflembled here not only the ladies, but every body of rank whofe health and avoca- tions will admit of it. The lower clafles of women, even to the very Negroes, affed, according to their abilities, to imitate their betters, not only in the fafliion of their drefs, but alfo in the richnefs of it. None here are feen without flioes as at Quito, but they are made of fo fmall a fize, in order to diminilh the natural bignefs of the feet, that they muft give infinite uneafinefs in the wearing. A defire of being diftinguifhed by an elegant drefs is univerfal. Their linen is always ftarched to a great degree, in order to difplay the coftly patterns of their laces. After this univerfal paflion, their next care, and indeed a much more commendable one, is cleanlinefs ; of which the uncommon neatnefs of their houfes are fufficient inftances. They are naturally gay, fprightly, and jocofe, without levity ; remarkably fond of mufic } fo that even among the loweft you are entertained with pleafing and agreeable fongs; ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. ^8^ fongs ; for the gratification of this paflion, they have in general good voices, and fome of them are heard with admiration. They are very fond of balls, where they diftin- guifh themfelves equally by the gracefulnefs and agility of their motions. In fine, the reigning paflions of the fair at Lima, are fhew, mirth, and feftivity. The natural vivacity and penetration of the inhabitants of Lima, both men and women, are greatly improved by converfing with perfons of learning reforting thither from Spain. The cuftom of forming fmall aflemblies, has alfo a great tendency to improve their minds, and give them a ready and happy manner of expreflion, from an emulation to diftinguifli themfelves in thefe engaging accomplifhments. / Though the natives have too great a fhare of pride, they are not wanting in docility when proper methods are taken. They inftantly fhew their relu£i:ance to obey a command given with haughtinefs ; but, when delivered with mildnefs and affability, equally obfequious and fubmiffive. They are charmed with gentlenefs of manners ; and a few inftances of kindnefs make a lafling impreflion on their minds. They are remarkably brave, and of fuch unblemilhed honour, as never to diffemble an affront received, or give one to others ; fo that they live together in a cheerful and focial manner. The Mulattoes being lefs civilized, and having but flender notions of the turpitude of vice, and the importance of virtue, are haughty, turbulent, and quarrel- fome. Yet the mifchievous confequences of thefe vices are lefs common, than might naturally be expefted in fuch a populous city. The manners and difpofitions of the nobility, correfpond with their rank and for- tune. Courtefy fhines in all their aftions, and their complaifance to ftrangers is without limits. The reception they give them, is equally free from flattery and a haughty referve ; fo that all the Europeans, whether they vifit them out of curiofity or from commercial motives, are charmed with their probity, politenefs, candour, and magnificence. CHAP. VI. — Of the Climate of the City of Lims, and the whole Country of Valles : aiid the Divifmu of the Seafons. THE temperature of the air of Lima, and its alterations, would be greatly injured by an inference drawn from what is felt in the fame degree of north latitude; as Lima would from hence be concluded another Carthagena ; the latitude of both cities, one in the northern and the other in the fouthern hemifphere, differing but very little ; whereas in fact it is quite the reverfe. For as that of Carthagena is hot to a degree of inconvenience, this of Lima is perfectly agreeable. And though the difference of the four feafons are fenfible, all of them are moderate, and none of them troublefome. Spring begins towards the clofe of the year, that is, towards the end of November, or beginning of December. But this is to be underftood only of the heavens, as then the vapours which filled the atmofphere during the winter fubfide, the/fun to the great joy of the inhabitants again appears, and the country now begins to revive, which during the abfence of his rays had continued in a flate of languor. This is fucceeded by fummer, which, though hot from the perpendicular direction of the fun's rays, is far from being infupportable ; the heat, which would indeed otherwife be excefr five, being moderated by the fouth winds, which at this feafon always blow, though with no great force. At the latter end of June, or the beginning of July, the winter begins, and continues till November or December, the autumn intervening between 584 ulloa's voyage to south ameuica. between both. About this time the fouth winds begin to blow ftronger, and bring the cold with them ; not indeed equal to that in countries where fnow and ice are known, but fo keen that the light drefles are laid by, and cloth or other warm fluffs worn- There are two caufes of the cold felt in this country, and nature, wife in all her ways, provides others which produce the fame effeft at Quito. The firfl caufe of cold at Lima is the winds, which paffing over the frozen climes of the fouth pole, bring hither part of the frigorific particles from thofe gelid regions ; but as a fufficient quantity of thefe could not be brought over fuch an immenfe fpace as lies between the frozen and torrid zones of its hemifphere, nature has provided another expedient ; during the winter, the earth is covered with fo thick a fog, as totally to intercept the rays of the fun ; and the winds, by being propagated under the 'fhelter of this fog, retain the particles they contrafted in the frozen zone. Nor is this fog confined to the country of Lima : it extends, with the fame denfity, northward through all the country of Valles, at the fame time filling the atmofphere of the fea ; as will be fhevm hereafter. This fog feldom fails daily to cover the earth, with a denfity that obfcures objedts at any diftance. About ten or eleven it begins to rife, but without being totally dif- perfed, though it is then no impediment to the fight, intercepting only the rays of the fun by day, and by night thofe of the ftars, the fky being continually covered what- ever height the vapours float in the atmofphere. Sometimes, indeed, they are fo far difperfed as to admit of feeing the difli of the fun, but flill precluding the heat of his rays. It is not unworthy obfervation on this head, that at the diftance of only two or three leagues, the vapours are much more diflipated from noon to evening than in the city, the fun fully appearing fo as to moderate the coldnefs of the air. Alfo at Callao, which is only two leagues and a half from Lima, the winter is much more mild, and the air clearer, during that feafon ; for the days at Lima are very melancholy and difagreeable, not only on account of the darknefs, but frequently during the whole day the vapours continue in the fame degree of denfity and pofition, without breaking, or being elevated above the earth. It is in this feafon only that the vapours diflblve into a very fmall mift or dew, which they call garua, and thus every where equally moiftens the earth ; by which means all thofe hills, which during the other part of the year offer nothing to the fight but rocks and waftes, are cloathed with verdure, and enamelled with flowers of the moft beautiful colours, to the great joy of the inhabitants, who, as foon as the feverity of winter is abated, refort into the country, which exhibits fo elegant an appearance. * Thefe garuas or dews never fall in quantities fufficient to damage the roads, or incommode the traveller ; a very thin ftuff will not foon be wet through ; but the continuance of the niifts during the whole winter, without being exhaled by the fun, renders the moft arid and barren parts fertile. For the fame reafon they -turn the difagreeable duft in the ftreets of Lima into a mud, which is rather more offenfive. * 1 cannot underftand what the Author means here by " feverity of the winter," unlefs he would fo denominate the moft pleafant time of the year ; for during this time, while the fun's rays are cut off by the mifts, there is a continual fpring : and plants and herbs recruit their ftrengch to endure the perpen- dicular rays of the fun, which break through the mifts about the middle of November. A. 12 The TO SOUTH AMERICA. 585 The winds whicli prevail during the winter, are nearly, though not exactly, fouth ; fomstimes fhifting a little to the fouth-eafl between which and the fouth they always blow. * This we obferved to liave conflantly happened during the two winters we fpent in this country, one at Linta, and the other at Callao ; the former in the year 1742, and the latter in 1743. Tiie firft was one of the mofl: fevere that had been felt, and the cold general in all that part of America to Cape Horn. In Chili, Baldivia, and Chiloe, the cold was proportionable to the latitiides ; and at Lima it occafioned conftipations and fluxions, which fwept away fuch numbers that it feemed to refemble a peftilence. And though dilbrders of this kind are very common in the v.inter feafon, they aoe rarely attended with the danger which then accompanied them. The extraordinary Angularity obfervcd in the kingdom of Peru, namely, that it never rains ; or to fpeak more properly, that the clouds do not convert themfelves into formal fho.vers, has induced many naturalifts to enquire into the caufe : but in their folutions of this diiBculty they have varied, and invented feveral hypothefes to account for fo ftrange an efFedl. Som.e attribute it to the conllancy of the fouth winds, con- cluding, that as they are inceifant, they propel the vapours riling from the fea, to the fame point ; and thus by never refling in any part, as no oppofite winds blow during the whole year to clieck their courfe, there is not time fufficient for the mifts to collecl themfelves, and, by an increafe of gravity, to defcend in the manner of rain. Others have attributed it to the natural cold brought by the fouth winds, which continue the atmofphere in a certain degree of heat during the whole year, and thus increafe the magnitude of the particles of the air, which with the nitrous effluvia ac- quired in its paflage over the furface of the fea, together with thofe of the feveral minerals with which this country abounds, lelfen its velocity, and confequently its power of uniting the vapours fo as to form drops whofe gravity is greater than that of the air. To this we may add, that the rays of the fun not exerting a force fuffi- cient for uniting and putting them in motion, the heat being greatly leiTened by the coldnefs of the wind, the fog cannot be converted into drops of rain. For while the weight of the cloud does not exceed that of the air, by which it is fupported, it cannot precipitate. I fhall not cenfure this, or any other hypothefis, formed for explaining the above phenomenon, not being certain that I have myfelf difcovered the true caufe ; I Ihall however give the reader my thoughts, and leave them to the difcuffion of philofophers. In order to this I lliall lay down fome preliminary principles, which may ferve as a foundation to thofe who ihall apply themfelves to difcover the true caufe of this pheno- menon, with fome inftrudions for judging of the feveral hypothefes that have been formed on this extraordinary iubjeft. I. It is to be fuppofed, that throughout the whole country of Valles, no other winds are Icnown during the whole year, than the foutherly, that is, between the fouth and fouth-eafl, and this not only on the land, but alfo to a certain diftance at fea ; it evi- dently appearing that the v.inds are limited between the fouth and fouth-eafl:. It is therefore very ftrange that fome writers ihould affert that they are confined between the fouth and fouth-weft, as this is abfolutely falie. There are indeed intervals when thefe winds are fcarcely felt, and an air, though extremely fmall, feems to come from the north, and whicli fornis the fog. 2. In winter the fouth wind blows harder than in fummer, efpecially near the furface of the earth. 3. Though no formal rain is ever * The wind here blows fouth by eall to fouth by weft, but generally about fouth-fouth-eafl from June to December. A. vol.. XIV. 4 F known 586 ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. known in the country of Valles, there are wetting fogs called garuas, which continue the greateft part of the winter ; but are never feen in fummer. 4. When the garuas fall, it is obferved that the clouds, mift, or vapours, which rife from the earth, re- main almoft contiguous to its furface ; and the fame fog which is converted into a garua, begins by a moift air, till the humidity gradually increafmg to its greateft con- denCation, the fmall drops which fall are eafily diftinguifliable. This is fo natural, that it is known in all other countries fubject to any degree of cold, and, confequently, not to be wondered at in this. I give the name of cloud, mift, or vapours, to that which produces the garua or fmall rain ; for though there may be fome accidental diftinftions between thefe three Idnds, they are not fuch as caufe any material difference : the fog being only the vapour condenfed more than when it iirft rofe ; and the cloud only a fog elevated to a greater height, and ftill more condenfed than the former : fo that in reality they may all be confidered as one and the fame thing, differing only in degrees of denfity, and therefore it is of little importance whatever name it is called by. 5. The rays of the fun during the fummer, caufe a prodigious heat all over Valles, and the more fo as they are received upon a fandy foil, whence they are ftrongly rever- berated, the winds being at the fame time very weak. Hence it appears, that the fecond hypothefis above related, is not founded on truth ; for if the force or agitation of the fouth winds be the caufe which hinders the vapours from rifmg to the height neceffary for forming rain, this caufe generally ceafmg in the fummer, the rain might be expected to defcend ; whereas quite the reverfe happens, the garuas being then much lefs common. 6. Particular times have been known when the nature of the country departing as it were from its ufual courfe, formal fhowers have fallen, as we have already mentioned (chap, i.) in defcribing the towns of Chocope, Truxillo, Tum- bez, and other places ; but with this fmgularity, that the winds continued at fouth, and blew much ftronger during the time of the rain, than is ufual either in winter or fummer. Thefe fix preliminary principles are fo common to this climate, that they may be appHed to all the places mentioned in this chapter ; and are the only guides that muft be followed in determining the true caufe why it does not rain in Peru as in Europe, or, more properly, as is common in the torrid zone. It will readily be granted, that the wind blows more ftrongly in fome regions of the atmofphere than in others, experience itfelf having fufficiently proved this to be faft ; as on high mountains, along whofe fummits a ftrong wind is felt, when at the foot hardly any can be perceived ; at leaft, we found this to be the cafe in all the mountains of the Cordilleras, one of the greateft inconveniences to us being the ftrength of the wind. And, indeed, this is every where fo common, that any perfon may be convin- ced of it by only afcepding a high tower, then he will foon perceive the difference be- tween the ftrength of the wind at the top and at the bottom. I am not ignorant that fome have endeavoured to prove, that on the land this proceeds from the inequalities of its furface, which hinder the winds from blowing in the plains or low countries with that force which is felt on eminences ; but the fame thing happening at fea, as experi- ence has abundantly proved, it appears beyond difpute, that the furface is not the place where the wind exerts its greateft force. This being granted, it may be confidently afferted, that the fouth winds blow with the greateft force in a portion of the atmof- phere at fome diftance from the earth ; but not generally higher than that in which the rain is formed ; or where the aqueous particles unite fo as to form drops of any fenfi- ble gravity or magnitude. In this country, therefore, the clouds or vapours elevated 3 above ULLOA'S voyage to south AMERICA. 587 above this fpace, that is, thofe which have the greatefl degree of altitude, move with a much lefs velocity than the winds under them. Nor is it uncommon in other climates, befides that of Valles, for thefe clouds to move in a direftion contrary to the more denfe ones below it. Thus it appears to me, that without the danger of advancing irregular fuppofitions, the fpace of the atmofphere, where the winds generally blow with the greatefl: force, is that where the large drops, commonly called rain, are formed. Now, in order to explain the fmgularity of this remarkable phenomenon, 1 conceive that, in fummer, when the atmofphere is mofl: rarefied, the fun, by the influence of his rays, proportionally elevates the vapours of the earth, and gives them a greater degree of rarefaction ; for his beams being then in a more perpendicular direftion to the earth, they have the power of raifmg them to a greater height. Thefe vapours, on their touching the lower part of the atmofphere, where the winds blow with the greatefl: force, are carried away before they can rife to the height required for uniting into drops, and, confequently, no rain can be formed. For, as the vapours iflue from the earth, they are wafted along the lower region of the atmofphere, without any flop ; and the winds blowing always from the fouth, and the vapours being rarefied propor- tionally to the heat of the fun, its too great aftivity hinders them from uniting. Hence, in fummer, the atmofphere is clear, or free from vapours. In winter, the rays of the fun being lefs perpendicular to the furface of the earth, ■ the atmofphere becomes confiderably more condenfed, but the winds from the fouth much more fo, as being loaded with the frigorific particles from the frozen zone, which particles it communicates to the vapours as they iflue from the earth, and, confequently, renders them much more condenfed than in fummer : hence they are hindered from rifing with the fame celerity as before. To thefe muft be added two other reafons ; one, that the rays of the fun for want of fufficient aftivity difllpates the vapours lefs, fo that they rife much flower. The other, that the region where the wind has its greatefl velocity being, in this feafon, near the earth, will not admit of their rifing to any height ; and thus they continue contiguous to its furface, where they ftill follow the fame direftion, and form the moifl: fog then felt : and having lefs fpace to dilate themfelves than at a greater height, they, confe- quently, fooner come into contadt, and when fufiiciently condenfed, defcend in a garua. In the middle of the day the garna ceafes, being then difperfed, which proceeds from the fun's rarefying the atmofphere, whence the vapours afcend and remain fuf- pended at a greater height, and thus they are rendered more tenulous ; and being ralfed to a region where they have more room to dilate, they are fo far difperfed as to become Imperceptible. After all, it mufh be owned, that both in fummer and winter, fome vapours muft furmount the difficulty of the wind in that region where its velocity is greatefl, and, getting above it, afcend to a greater height ; though not indeed in the very part where they firfl reached this current of wind, but at fome diftance from it : fo that thefe va- pours are to be confidered, on one hand, as yielding to the current of the air, and, on the other, as afcending in proportion to the rarefadtlon they have received from the rays of the fun. Hence it follows, that thefe vapours cannot be thofe which are mofl: con- denfed, as the difficulty of rifing is always proportional to the degree of condenfation ; and, at the fame time, their magnitude would render them more fufceptlble of the im- pulfe of the wind. So that thefe confequently being the mofl: fubtile or tenulous, on having paffed that region, the celerity with which they were before carried upwards is 4 F 2 decreafed, 588 VLhOA's VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. decreafed, and great numbers of them being united, form that lofty mifl which is feen after the cloud is totally diflipated. This mid cannot be converted into rain ; for, hav- ing palled above the region proper for its formation, all the parts become congealed, and their weight can never be increafed fufRcicntly to overcome the refiftance of the air which fupports them ; for the quantity of thofe which have overcome this obitacle being inconfiderable, they cannot be united with a fufficient quantity of others to with- ftand the continual diflipation occafioned by the aftion of the rays of the fun. Nor can they defcend in either fnow or hail, as might be expeded from their prefent Hate. Befides following always, though with lefs velocity, the current of the wind, any fuch concretion of them as to form a thick cloud is prevented : for, as we have already ob- ferved, thefe milts are fo tenuious, as to aiford in the day-time a confufed view of the dilk of the fun, and of the ftars in the night. In order to render the premifes agreeable to obfervation, one difficulty ftill remains, namely, that thefe lofty mills are feen only in winter, and not in fummer. But this, in my opinion, muft naturally be the confequence ; for, befides the general reafon, that the ftionger influence of the rays of the fun difperfes them, it proceeds from the increafe of the force of the winds during the winter, in a region nearer the earth than in fummer ; and the nearer the lower part of this region is to the furface of the earth, the nearer alfo will be the upper part ; while, on the contrary, in the fummer, the higher the lower part of this current of air is, the higher will be alfo its upper part ; and. as we muft fuppofe, with all philofophers, that the vapours of the earth can afcend only to that height, where the gravity of the particles of the vapours are equal to thefe of the air ; and the rapidity of the wind extending in fummer to thefe limits, they are confequently involved in its violent impulfe ; and thence there cannot be fuch a multitude of conglomerations as to form the mift fo common in winter ; for the winds in this feafon ftrongly blowing through a region nearer the earth, the agitation in the upper parts is proportionally lefs. And this current of air being below the region to which vapours can afcend, the fpace intercepted between the upper part of this current and the part to which vapours rife, becomes filled with them. All this feems natural, and is confirmed by experience ; for, in winter, the fouth winds are ftronger on the land than in fummer. But as a further proof may be thought neceflary, I have added the following: It has been faid that, in the town of Chocope, two very hard and continual rains have' happened ; and that the fame thing is more frequently feen at Tumbez, and other towns of thofe parts, after fome years of continual drought, which feems ftrange ; for that being in the country of Valles, and not at all different from Lima, no rain would naturally be expefted there. Two caufes for this, however, have occurred to me, one of them flowing from the other. I fliall begin with the firft as produftive of the fecond. From what has been faid, it may be inferred, that in a country or climate, where one and the fame wind perpetually prevails, there can be no formal rain ; and, in order to form it, either the wind muft entirely ceafe, or an oppofite wind muft arife, which, by checking the courfe of the vapours, brings them into contaft with thofe lately ex- haled from the earth, and caufes them to condenfe in proportion as they rife by the ^raftion of the fun, till being rendered heavier than the air by which they were fup- ported, they defcend in drops of water. On reconfidering the circumltances of what happened at Chocope, it will appear, that during the whole day, the fky was clear, and that it was not before five in the evening that the rain began, and with it the violence of the wind. It fliould alfo be obferved, that ULLOa's ^•OYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. ■ 589 that in the time of the brifas in thofe climates where they are periodical, they blow ftrongeft between the fetting and rifing of the fun ; and this happening in September and the following months, forms the fummer in Valles, when they enjoy clear days and a lucid atmofphere. This was the cafe at Chocope at the time of that rain ; for, though the inhabitants did not precifely mention the feafon in which that event happen- ed, yet the feveral particulars related, efpeciaily that the fouth winds then prevailed with an uncommon force, fufficiently indicate that it was in the fummer ; as this would not have been at all remarkable in winter, when they are very variable and fometimes ftormy. It may therefore be fafely concluded, that thefe events happened during the fummer ; and, by way of corollary, that the brifas being ftronger than ufual, and ad- vancing fo far on the continent as even to reach the fouth winds, they were overpower- ed by them, and fhifted their point ; but the fucceeding fouth winds rendering it impof- fible to return in the fame place, they left their former region, and blew in a current nearer the earth. By which means, the vapours which had been exhaling during the whole day, after being carried by the ftrongeft current of wind to a certain diftance, afcended to the region where the brifas prevailed ; and being there repelled by them, had time to condenfe ; for being within that region where the rain is formed, or where many imperceptible drops compofe one of a large magnitude and gravity, and being more minutely divided by the influence of the fun, they continued to afcend, till that power ceafing by the fetting of the fun, they again condenfed, and their weight becoming too heavy to be fupported in the air, they defcended in rain, which was the more violent, as the vapours were ftrongly repulfed by the brifas. At the dawn, thefe winds, as ufual, began to decreafe, and the rain gradually lelfened. The fouth winds blew all day as before ; and there being then in the atmofphere no other winds to oppofe them, they carried with them the vapours as they exhaled, and the atmofphere continued clear and ferene. This happened at Chocope, fituated at a much greater diftance from the parts tq which the brifas extend than Tumbez, Piura, Sechura, and other towns where this is more frequent, as being nearer the equinodial : notwithftanding, no brifas or north winds are felt in that part of the atmofphere near the furface of the earth. So that it is probable, or rather indeed evident from experience, that the north winds at the time they prevail, more eafily reach to the countries neareft the equinodial, than to thofe at a greater diftance, though not fo as to be felt in the atmofphere near the earth, but in a more elevated region. Confequently, it is natural for rains to be more frequent in the former than in the latter, where thefe \vinds very feldom reach, whether in that part of the atmofphere contiguous to the earth, or another, which being more diftant from it they blow there more violently. I at firft declared againft any pofitive aflertion, that the opinion I have now laid before the reader is founded on fuch undoubted phyfical principles, that no other can be advanced more conformable to phenomena ; it being difficult immediately to fix on caufes which agreeing with all circumftances, leaves the mind entirely fatisfied : and as all within the reach of human perfpicuity cannot be accommodated to every particular, as entire conviQion requires, let it; fuffice that I have here delivered my thoughts ; leaving the naturalifts at full liberty to inveftigate the true caufe, and when difcovered, to rejed; my hypothefis. * * A more probable conjefture is, that the vapours which arife in the great South Sea, and are brought into this neighbourhood by the fouth wind (where they would naturally condenfe into clouds and fail in Ihowers), are attracted by the Cordilleras, whofe tops are generally enveloped in clouds frightful to behold, which fpend themfelvesin tremendous tempefts, even Ihaking the foundations of thofe lofty moun- tains. A. As 590 ULLOA S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. As rain is feldom or never feen at Lima, fo that place is alfo equally free from tem. pcfts ; that fo thofe who have neither vifited the mountains nor travelled into other parts, as Guayaquil or Chili, are abfolute ftrangers to thunder and lightning ; nothing of that kind being known here. Accordingly, the inhabitants are extremely terrified ■when they firll hear the former or fee the latter. But it is very remarkable, that what is here entirely unknown, fliould be fo common at thirty leagues diftant, or even lefs, to the eaft of Lima ; it being no farther to the mountains, where violent rains and tempefts are as frequent as at Quito. The winds, though fettled in the above-mentioned points, are fubjeft to variations, but almoft imperceptible, as we fhall explain. They are alfo very gentle, and even in the feverefl: winters, never known to do any damage by their violence ; fo that if this country was free from other inconveniences and evils, its inhabitants could have nothing to defire, in order to render their lives truly agree- able. But with thefe fignal advantages, nature has blended inconveniences, which greatly diminifh their value, and reduce this country even below thofe on which nature has not bellowed fuch great riches and fertility. It has been obferved, that the winds generally prevailing in Valles, throughout the whole year, comes from the fouth ; but this admits of fome exceptions, which, without any eifential alteration, implies that fometimes the winds come from the north, but fo very faint, as fcarcely to move the vanes of the fhips, and confift only of a very weak agitation of the air, juft fufficient to indicate that the wind is changed from the fouth. This change is regularly in winter, and with it the fog immediately begins, which in fome meafure feems to coincide with what has been offered with regard to the reafon why fhowers are unknown at Lima. This breath of wind is lb particular, that from the very inftant it begins, and before the wind is condcnfed, the inhabitants are unhappily fenfible of it by violent head-aches, fo as eafily to know what fort of weatiier is coming on before they ftir out of their chambers. CHAP. VIL — Inconveniencies, Di/iempers, and Evils, to ivhich the City of Lima is fubje£l ; particularly Earthquakes. ONE of the inconveniences of Lima, during the fumnier, is that of being tor- mented with fleas and bugs, from which the utmofl: care is not fufficient to free the inhabitants. Their prodigious increafe is partly owing to the dull of that dung, with which the ftreets ai-e continually covered ; and partly to the flatnefs of the roofs, where the fame duit, wafted thither by the winds, produce thefe troublefome infeds, which are continually dropping through the crevices of the boards into the apartments, and by that means render it impoflible for the inhabitants, notwithflanding all their pains, to keep their houfes free from them. The mofchitos are very troublefome, but much kfs fo than the former. The next, and indeed a mod dreadful circumflance, is that of earthquakes, to which this country is fo fubjeft, that the inhabitants are under continual apprchenfions of being, from their fuddennefs and violence, buried in the ruins of their own houfes. Several deplorable inftances of this kind have happened in this unfortunate city ; and lately proved the total deilruftion of all its buildings. Thefe terrible concuffions of nature are not regular, either with regard to their continuance or violence. But the interval between them is never of a length fufficient to obliterate the remembrance of them. In the year 1742, I had the curiofity to obferve the diftance of time between fhofe which happened fucceffively for a certain fpace. 1. On the 9th of May, at three quarters ULLOa S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. 59 1 quarters after nine in the morning. 2. The 1 9th of the fame month, at midnight, 1,. The 27th, at thirty-five minutes after three in the evening. 4. The 12th of June, at three quarters paft five in the morning. 5. The 1 4th of October, at nine at night ; all which I carefully noted. And it mufl be obferved, that thefe concuflions were the moll confiderable, and lafted near a minute ; particularly that of the 27th of May, which continued near two minutes, beginning with one violent fhock, and gradually terminating in tremulous motions. Between thefe above noted were feveral others, which I omitted, as being neither fo lafting nor violent. Thefe earthquakes, though fo fudden, have their prefages, one of the principal of which is, a rumbling noife in the bowels of the earth, about a minute before the fliocks are felt ; and this noife does not continue in the place where it was firft pro- duced, but feems to pervade all the adjacent fubterraneous parts. This is followed by difmal howlings of the dogs, which feem to have the firft perception of the approaching danger. The beafts of burden paffing the ftreets, (lop, and, by a natural inftinft, fpread open their legs, the better to fecure themfelves from falling. On thefe portents the terrified inhabitants fly from their houfes into the ftreets with fuch precipitation, that if it happens inthe night, they appear quite naked ; fear and the urgency of the danger, banilhing at once all fenfe of decency. Thus the ftreets exhibit fuch odd and fingular figures, that might even afford matter for diverfion, were it poflible in fo ter- rible a moment. The fudden concourfe is accompanied with the cries of children waked out of their fleep, blended with the lamentations of the women, whofe agonizing prayers to the faints increafe the common fear and confufion : the men alfo are too much affected to refrain from giving vent to their terror ; fo that the whole city exhibits one dreadful fcene of confternation and horror. Nor does this end with the fhock, none venturing to return to their houfes through fear of a repetition, which frequently demolilhes thofe buildings which had been weakened by the firft. My attention to fet down the exact time of the above-mentioned ftiocks, taught me, that they happen indiff'erently at half-ebb or half-flood, but never at high or low water : which fufficiently confutes what fome have confidently advanced, namely, that earth- quakes always happen during the fix hours of ebb, but never during the flood : be- caufe this favours the hypothefis they have advanced to account for their origin and caufes ; an hypothefis which, in my opinion, does not fufficiently coiTefpond with obfervations, as to recommend itfelf to the afl"ent of intelligent perfons. The nature of this country is fo adapted to earthquakes, that all ages have feen their terrible devaftations : and that nothing may be wanting to fatisfy the curiofity of the reader, I Ihall introduce the account of that which laid this large and fplendid city totally in ruins, with a fhort narrative of the mofl remarkable that have been felt in latter ages. 1. The firft concuflion fince the eftabliffiment of the Spaniards in thefe parts, hap- pened in 1582, a few years after the foundation of Lima; but the damage was much lefs than in fome of the fucceeding, being chiefly confined to the city of Arequipa, which being fituated near that fpot, where the motion of the earth was moft violent, the greateft part of it was deftroyed. 2. On the 9th of July 1586, Lima was vifited with another earthquake, and fo violent, that even to this time it is folemnly commemorated on the day of the vifitation of Elizabeth. 3. In 1 609, another like the former happened. 4. On the 27th of November 1630, fuch prodigious damage was done in the city by an earthquake, and the entire ruin of it apprehended, that in acknowledgment of its 592 ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. its deliverance, a fedival, called Nueftra Senora del Milagro, is annually celebrated on that day. ' 5. In the year 1655, on the 3d of November, the moft ftately edifices, and a gr«it number of houfes, were thrown down by an earthquake ; the inhabitants fled into the country, and remained there feveral days, to avoid the danger they were threatened with in the city. 6. On the 17th of June 1678, another earthquake happened, by which feveral houfes were deft roved, and the churches confiderably damaged. 7. One of the moft dreadful of which we have any account, was that of the 20th of Oftober 1687. If began at four in the morning, with the deftrudion of feveral public edifices and houfes, whereby great numbers of perfons periftied ; but this was little more than a prefage of what was to follow, and preferved the greateft part of the inhabitants from being buried under the ruins of the city. The fhock was repeated at fix in the morning, with fuch im.petuous concuflions, that whatever had v ithftood the firft, was now laid in ruins ; and the inhabitants thought themfelves very fortunate in being only fpe£l:ators of the general devaftation from the ftreets and fquares, to which they had direded their flight on the firft warning. During this fecond concuflion the fea retired confiderably from its bounds, and returning in mountainous waves, totally overwhelmed Callao, and the neighbouring parts, together with the miferable inha- bitants. 8. On the 29th of September 1697, this place was vifited by another terrible earthquake. 9. On the 14th of July 1699, a great number of houfes were deftroyed by another concuflion. 10. The 6th of February 1716, a like difafter. 11. On the 8th of January 1725, another. 12. On the 2d of December 1732, was another earthquake at one in the morning. 13. 14, 15. In the years 1690, 1734, and 1745, three others happened, bur nei- ther violent nor lafting. But all thefe were lefs terrible than the lafl, as will appear from the following account of it. 16. On the 28th of Odober, 1746, at half an hour after ten at night, five hours and three quarters before the full of the moon, the concuflions began with fuch violence, that in little more than three minutes, the greateft part, if not all the build- ings, great and fmall, in the whole city, were deftroyed, burying under their ruins thofe inhabitants who had not made fufficient hafte into the ftreets and fquares : the only places of fafety in thefe terrible convulfions of nature. At length the horrible ef- fefls of this fliort ftiock ceafed : but the tranquillity was of fliort duration ; concuifions returning with fuch, frequent repetitions, that the inhabitants, according to the account fent of it, computed two hundred in the firft twenty-four hours : and to the 24th of February of the following year, 1747, when the narrative was dated, no lefs than four hundred and fifty fliocks were obferved, fome of which, if lefs lafting, were equal to the firft in violence. The fort of Callao, at the very fame hour, funk into the like ruins ; but what it fuffered from the earthquake in its buildings, was inconfiderable, when compared with the terrible cataftrophe which followed ; for the fea, as is ufual on fuch occafions, receding to a confiderable diftance, returned in mountainous waves foaming with the violence of the agitation, and fuddenly turned Callao and the neighbouring country, into a fea. This was not, however, totally performed by the firft fwell of the waves ; 4 for VLLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 593 for the fea, retiring further, returned with flill more impetuofity ; the ftupendous water covering both the walls and other buildings of the place ; fo that whatever had efcaped the firft, was now totally overwhelmed by thofe terrible mountains of waves, and no- thing remained except a piece of the wall of the fort of Santa Cruz, as a memorial of this terrible devaftation. There were then twenty-three fhips and veffels, great and fmall, in the harbour, of which nineteen were abfolutely funk, and the other four, among which was a frigate called St. Firmin, carried by the force of the waves to a great diftance up the country. This terrible inundation extended to other ports on the coaft, as Cavallos and Gua- nape ; and the towns of Chancay, Guara, and the valleys Delia Baranca, Sape, and Pativilca, underwent the fame fate as the city of Lima. The number of perfons who perifhed in the ruin of that city, before the 31(1 of the fame month of Oftober, ac- cording to the bodies found, amounted to thirteen hundred, befides the maimed and wounded, many of which lived only a fhort time in torture. At Callao, where the number of inhabitants amounted to about four thoufand, two hundred only efcaped ; and twenty-two of thefe by means of the above-mentioned fragment of a wall. According to an account fent to Lima after this accident, a volcano in Lucanas burft forth the fame night and ejected fuch quantities of water, that the whole country was overflowed ; and in the mountain near Patas, called Converfiones de Caxamarquilla, three other volcanoes burft, difcharging frightful torrents of water ; like that of Car- guayralTo, mentioned in the firft part of this work. Some days before this deplorable event, fubterraneous noifes were heard at Lima, fometimes refembling the bellowing of oxen, and at others the difcharges of artillery. And even after the earthquake they were ftill heard during the filence of the night j a convincing proof that the inflammable matter was not totally exhaufted, nor the caufe of the fliocks abfolutely removed. The frequent earthquakes to which South America, particularly Lima, and all the country of Valles, is fubjed, opens a field for enquiry not lefs ample than that jufl mentioned, concerning their caufe. Many hypothefcs have been formed by philofo- phers; but the generality, and with the greateft appearance of truth, agree in de- ducing them principally from the violent force of the air contained in fulphureous fub- ftances and other minerals, and alfo that confined in the pores of the earth ; which being comprell'ed by the incumbent load, make a very violent refiftance. This is fo far from implying any contradi5:ion, that befides being countenanced by reafon it is alio confirmed by experience. But the apparent difficulty confifts in explaining how the vents of the earth become again filled with air, after one concuiTion has happened ; it being natural to think, that the quantity which ftruggled for vent, was thereby dif- charged, and that a long interval of time was neceflary before another could be pro- duced. Alfo why fomexountries are more fubjeft to thefe terrible convulfions than others. Though this fubjeft has been treated of by feveral authors, I think it my duty here to deliver the opinion which to me feems moft probable. Experience has fufficiently ftiewed, efpecially in this country, by the many volcanoes in the Cordilleras which pafs through it, that the burfting of a new burning mountain caufes a violent earthquake, fo as totally to deftroy all the towns within its reach ; as happened at the opening of the volcano in the defert of Carguagoazo, as mentioned before. This tremulous motion, which we may properly call an earthquake, does not fo ufually happen in cafe of a fecond eruption, when an aperture has been before made ; or at leaft, the motion It caufes in the earth is comparatively but fniaJl. Whence it is inferred that an aperture being once made, however the fubftances in the bowels of VOL. XIV. 4 G the 594 ULLO.v's VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. the mountain may take fire, the convulfion of the earth is feldom or nev'-er felt a fecond time. The reafon of which is, that the fudden reiteration of this accident greatly augments the volume of the air by rarefaftion ; and as it finds an eafy pafl'age without labouring in the bowels of the earth for a vent, no other concuflion is pro- duced than what mult follow from the erupiion of a great quantity of air through an aperture too narrow for its volume. The formation of volcanoes is now well known ; and that they owe their origin to fulphureous, nitrous, and other combuftiLle fubilances in the bowels of the earth ; for thefe being intermixed, and, as it were, turned into a kind of palie by the fubterraneous waters, ferment to a certain degree, when they take fire ; and by dilating the contiguous wind or air, and alfo that within their pores, fo that its volume is prodigioufly increafed beyond what it was before the inflammation, it produces the fame effeCi as gunpowder when fired in the narrow fpace of a mine, but with this difference, that powder on being fired immediately difappears, whereas the volcano being once ignited, continues fo till all the oleaginous and fulphureous particles contained in the mountain are confumed. Volcanoes are of two kinds, contrafted and dilated. The former are found where a great quantity of inflammable matter is confined in fmall fpace ; the latter where thefe combuftibles are fcattered at a confiderable diftance from one another. The firft are chiefly contained in the bowels of mountains, which may be con- fidered as the natural depofitaries of thefe fubilances. The fecond may be confidered as ramifications, which, though proceeding from the former, are, however, independent, extending themfelves under the plains, and traverfing them in feveral direftions. This being admitted, it will appear, that in whatever countiy volcanoes, or depofitaries of thefe fubftances, are very common, the plains will be more diverfified with thefe ramifications ; for we are not to imagine that it is only within the bofoms of mountains that fubftances of this nature exift, and that they are not difltminated through all the parts of the adjacent region. Thus the country now imder confideration, abound- ing in thefe igneous fubftances more than any other, muft by the continual inflammation which necefllirily follows their natural preparation for it, be more expofed to earthquakes. Befides the fuggeitions of natural reafon, that a country containing manv volcanoes muft alfo be every where veined with ramifications of correfpondent fubftances, it is con- firmed by experiment in Peru ; where we find almoft univerfally mines of nitre, fulphur, vitriol, fait, bitumen, and other inflammatory fubftances, which fufficiently confirm the truth of thefe inferences. The foil both of Quito and Valles, particularly the latter, is hollow and fpongv, fo as to be fuller of cavities and pores than is ufually feen in that of other countries, and confequently abounds with fubterranean waters. Befides which, as I (hall prefently (hew more at large, the waters, from the ice continually melting on the mountains, being filtrated through thefe pores during their defcent, peitetrate deep into the cavities of the earth, and during their fubterranean courfe, moiften, and turn into a kind ofpafte, thofe fulphureous and nitrous fubftances ; and though they are not here in fuch prodi gious qu;mtities as in volcanoes, yet they are fufficient, from their inflammatory quality, to rarefy the air contained in them, which, eafily incorporating itfelf with that confined in the innumerable pores, cavities, or veins of the earth, comprefl'es it by its greater ex- panfion, and at the fame time rarefies it by its heat ; but the cavities being too narrow- to admit of its proper dilatation, it ftruggles for a vent, and thefe cflbrts Ihake all the contiguous parts; till at laft, where it finds the leaft reuftance, it forces itfelf a palfage, which fometimes clofes again by the trenmlous motion it occafions, and at others cc^n- tinues open, as may be feen in different parts of all thefe countries. When, on account of ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. ^ 595 of the refinance being equal, it finds a paflage in feveral parts, the chafms or fiffures are generally fmaller, fo that rarely any veftiges remain after the concuffion. At o.her times, when the fubterranean cavities are fo large as to form fubterranean caverns, they not only rend the earth, and at every fhock. leave it full of difruptions, but alfo caufe it to fink into fpacious hollows, as I particularly obferved near the town of Guaranda, a place in the jurifdidion of Chimbo, in the province of Quito ; where, in the year 1744, all the ground on the one fide of the chafm funk near a yard, the other fide rifing in the fame proportion, though with fome inequalities on both fides. The loud fubterranean noifes preceding earthquakes, and which imitate thunder at a diflance, feem to correfpond with the above-mentioned caufe and formation of earth- quakes, as they can only proceed from the rarefaftion of the air on the ignition of the explofive fubftances ; which being impetuoufly propagated through all the caverns of the earth, propelling and at the fame time dilating what is contained in them, till all the cavities being pervaded, and no vent found, the efforts for a further dilatation begin, and form the concuffion with which it terminates. It muft be obferved that at the time when the air, which had been confined within the earth, burfts through it, neither the light nor fire emitted from the chafms are feen. The reafon is, that this light and fire exift only at the inftant when the matter becomes inflamed, and the air fpreading itfelf through all the veins, the light is extinguifhed by its dilatation, and becomes afterwards imperceptible. It is necefi'ary to fuppofe that there muft be fome, though a fhort interval, between the inflammation and effeft. Neither is the flame permanent, the fubftance ignited not containing thofe folid and oleaginous particulars which fupply the volcanoes. Btfides, they are not in fufficient quantity to afcend from the fubterraneous caverns where they took fire, to the fuperfi- cies of the earth. Farther, this not being the place where the matter was originally contained, but that where it has forced a paffage for the quantity of air which its rare- fadtion augmented, the firft light is loft among the meanders of its courfe, and there- fore not to be feen when the wind violently forces a palfage. There have, however, been inftances when the light has been feen, though much oftener the fmoke ; but this is generally loft in the clouds of duft afcending at the time of the concuflion. The fhocks are repeated r-t intervals, of a few days, fometimes of a few hours ; pro- ceeding fiom the matter being difperfed in different places, and each in a different de- gree of aptitude for inflammation, one part kindling after another fucceilively, as eacli is more or lefs prepared. Hence proceed alfo the different violence of the fliocks and the different intervals of time. For the quantity firlt inflamed increafes by its heat other inflammable portions of matter ; whence a part which would not have been ignited till after fome days, by means of this adventitious fire, becomes fo within a few hours. The fecond fliocks are more violent, and caufe a greater deftrudtion than the firft ; for the fire of the portion of matter which is firft inflamed, though in itfelf fmall, is fufficient to accelerate the fermentation of a much larger quantity, and confequently muft be attended with more powerful effefts. Though the fummer here, as we have already obferved, is confiderably warm, yet it is not productive of venomous creatures, which in this country are not known ; and the fame may be faid of all Valles, though there are fome parts, as Tumbez and Piura, where the heat is nearly equal to that at Guayaquil. This fingularity can therefore pro- ceed from iio other caufe than the natural drought of the climate. The difttmpers moft common at Lima are malignant, intermittent, and catarrhous fevers, pleurifies, and conftipations ; and thefe rage continually in the city. The fmall- 4 G 2 pox 596 ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. pox is alfo known here as at Quito, but is not annual, though, when it prevails, great numbers are fwept away by it. Convulfions are likewife very common, and no lefs fatal. This diforder, though unknown at Quito, is frequent all over Valles, but more dangerous in fome parts than others. Something has already been faid of this diftemper in our account of Carthagena, but a more circumflantial defcription of it was referved for this place. This diftemper is divided into two kinds, the common or panial, and the malignant or arched convulfions. They both come on when nature is ftruggling in the crifis of fome acute diftemper, but with this important difference, that thofe attacked with the former often recover, though the greater part die on the third or fourth day, the term of its duration ; while thofe who have the misfortune of being attacked by the latter, fmk under it in two or three davs, it being very extraordinary to recover, and is there- fore termed malignant. The fpafnis or convulfions confift in a total inactivity of the mufcles, and a conftric- tion of the nerves of the whole body, beginning with thofe of the head ; and thefe nerves being the channels which convey nourifhment to the body, and this nouriftiment being precluded by the conftridion of its conduits, thev all fuccelTively fuffer ; the mufcles, by having loft their activity, cannot aflllt in the motion of the nerves, and thefe being con- ftringed, can no longer perform their office. Add to this a pungent humour dif- perfing itfelf through all the membranes of the body, and caufing infupportable pains ; fo that the groaning patient labours under inconceivable tortures, which are ftill in- creafed on his being moved, though with the greateft care and gentlenefs, from one fide to the other. The throat is fo contratted that nothing can be conveyed into the fto- mach. The jaws are alfo fometimes fo clofely locked, as impofiible to be opened : thus the miferable patient lies without motion, and tortured in every part of his body, till natur,e quite exhaufted, falls a vidim to this deleterious diftemper. In the partial kind, the pulfe is more affedted than in the diftemper which preceded it, and commonly abates the violence of a fever. But in the malignant kind it augments, the circulations being quickened ; and whether it be the effect of the humour impetu- oufly circulating through every part, or of the pain proceeding from the laceration of the membranes and abrading the mufcles, the patient falls into a lethargy, but which does not remove the torturing fenfation of thefe punctures, often fo infupportable, that the miferable patient violently turns himfeif, and thus augments his agonies, as evidently appears from his piercing cries and groans. l"he malignant and arched fpafm, even in the firft ftage, is fo violent as to caiife a con- traction of the nerves of the vertebrse from the brain downwards ; and as the diftemper increafeSj and the malignant humour acquires great activity, the nerves become more and more conftri<5ted, that the body of the patient, contrary to nature, incliues back- ward into an arch, and all the bones become diflocated. However terrible the pains re- fulting from hence may feem, they are ftill Increafed by thofe of the other fpecies ot con- vulfions, when the violence is fuch that the patient ufually lofes all fenfation, and falls into a total ina£tion, not having breath to utter his complaints. It is common at the beginning of this diftemper to be totally convulfed, fo that every part of the patient is affeded, and, during the continuance, is, as it were, deprived of all fenfation. Their return is more frequent and lafting as the diftemper increafes, till nature becomes entirely fpent, when the lethargy fits fucceed, and it is generally in one of thefe that the patient breathes his iaft. Theufual method of treating this diftemper is by keeping both the bed and the cham- ber very clofe, even with a fire in it, that the pores being opened by the heat, the tran- fpiration ULLOA S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA, 597 fpiration may be more copious. Laxative clyfters are often injefted to mollify the con- tradions of the inteftines, and other internal parts. External applications are alfo ap» plied to foften the parts, and open the duds by which nature may evacuate the morbid humour : for the fame intention and to check its progrefs, cordials and diuretic draughts are prefcribed, and alfo the bath ; but the latter only at the beginning of the firft ftage of the diftemper ; for if it is found to increafe on the fecond day, bathing is no longer ordered. The women of Lima are fubject to a diftemper, extremely painful, very contagious, and almoft incurable ; namely, a cancer in the matrix, which even at the beginning is attended with fuch excruciating pains, that their lives are one continued feries of groans and complaints. During its progrefs, they difchargc great quantities of morbid humours, become attenuated, fall into a Rate of languor, which gradually puts a period to their lives. It ufualiy continues fome years, with intervals of eafe, during which, if the eva- cuations do not entirely ceafe, they are confiderablv intermitted ; the pains feem over, and they are capable ol drelling themfelves and walking abroad : but the difeafe fudden- ly returns with double violence, and the patient becomes totally difabled. This diftem- per comes on fo imperceptibly, as not to be indicated either by the countenance or pulfe, till at its height ; and fuch is the contagion of it, that it is contradled only by futing in the fame chair commonly ufed by an infe6fed perfon, or wearing her cloaths ; but it has not been known to aftecl the men, hufliands- ufualiy living with their wives till the laft ftage of the diftemper. Two caufes are afligned for this malady ; their exceffive ufe of perfumes, which they always carry about them, and may doubtlefs contribute greatly to promote it : the other a continual riding in their calalhes ; but this does not feem to be of fo much confequence as the former. For then the moft diftinguiftied of the fair fex in other countries, who ride in coaches, and even ufe the more violent exercife of the horfe, would not be exempt from it. Slow or hectic fevers alfo prevail greatly in thefe countries, and are likewife conta- gious, but more from a want of proper care in the furniture and apparel of the perfon infeded, than any malignancy of the climate. The venereal difeafe is equally common in this country as in thofe we have already mentioned ; it is indeed general in all that part of America ; and as little attention is given to it till arrived to a great height, the general cuftom in all thofe parts, a repeti- tion here would be needlefs. CHAP. MIL — Fertility of the Territories of Lima, and the Manner of cultivating the Soil. IT is natural to think that a country, where rain is feldom or ever known, muft of neceflity be totally barren, whereas the country of Lima enjoys a fertility to be envied, producing all kinds of grain, and a prodigious variety of fruits. Here induftry and art fupply that moifture which the clouds feem to withhold ; and the foil is by this means rendered remarkably fruitful, amidft a continual drought. It has already been obferved, that one of the principal cares of the Yncas was the cutting and difpofing in the moft advantageous manner trenches or fmall canals, in order to conduct the waters of the rivers to nourifti every part, and render large fields capable of producing grain. The Spaniards finding thefe ufeful works ready executed to their hands, took care to keep them in the fame order ; and by thefe are watered the fpacious fields of wheat and barley, large meadows, plantations of fugar-canes and olive-trees^ vineyards^ 59^ ulloa's voyage to south a.merica. vineyards, and gardens of all kinds, all yielding uncommon plenty. Lima differs from •Quito, where the fruits of the earth have no determined feafons ; but here the harvefts are gathered in, and the trees drop their leaves, according to their refpedive natures ; for thofe which grow fpontaneoufly in a hot climate, though the livelinefs of their ver- dure fades, their leaves do not fall off till others fupply their place. The bloffoms alfo have their refpeclive times, and are correfpondently Succeeded by fruits ; fo that this country refembles thofe of the temperate zones, no lefs in the product and feafons of corn, bloffoms,- fruits, and flowers, than in the difference of winter and fummer. Before the earthquake in 16S7, when this city fuffered in fo deplorable a manner, the harvefts of wheat and barley were f ifficient to fupply the wants of the country without any importation, efpecially of wheat ; but by this convulfion of nature, the foil was fo vitiated, that the wheat rotted foon after it was fown, occafioned, probably, by the vaft clouds of fulphureous particles then exhaled, and the prodigious quantities of nitrous effluvia diffufed through it. This obliged the owners of the lands to apply them to other ufes, and accordingly many of them were turned into meadows of clover, plantations of fugar-canes, and other vegetables, which they found not fubjedt to the fame misfortune. After the land had continued forty years in this ftate of fterility, the hufbandm.en began to perceive fuch alteration in the foil, as promifed a fpeedy return to its former goodnefs. Accordingly fome trials were fuccefsfully made with wheat, and by degrees that grain was found to thrive as before that dreadful event. But whether it be from the other plants, which have been cultivated in thofe parts, or from any miftruft of the hufbandmen, the fame quantity has not been fown as before. It is natural to think that the late dreadful earthquake muft have had the fame pernicious effetts on the foil ; though by means of the eflablifliment of the corn trade with Chili fmce that time, the confequences will not be fo fenfibly felt. The fields in the neighbourhood of Lima are chiefly fown with clover, of which there is here a confumption not to be paralleled in any other place : it being the common fodder for all beafts, particularly the mules and horfes, of which there is an incon- ceivable number. The other parts of the country are taken up with plantations already mentioned, among which thofe of canes are not the leaft, and yield an excellent kind of fugar. All thefe fields and plantations are cultivated by negro flaves, purchafed tor this fer- vice ; and the fame is feen in the other improved parts of Valles. The olive plantations appear like thick forefts ; for befides -the height, magnitude, and fulnefs of leaves of thefe trees, in all which they exceed thofe of Spain, they are never pruned, by which means their branches become fo interwoven, that the light cannot penetrate through their foliage. The plough is Qot ufed here ; the only culti- vation they require, being to clear the holes made at the foot of each for receiving the water, to keep the trenches open which convey it, and every three or four years to cut down all fhoots or cions, in order to form paffages for gathering the fruit. With this fmall trouble the inhabitants have an uncommon plenty of the fined olives, which they either commit to the prefs for oil, or pickle, they being particularly adapted to the latter, both with regard to their beauty, largenefs, and flavour. Their oil is much preferable to that of Spain. The country contiguous to the city is covered with gardens, producing all the herbs and fruits known in Spain, and of the fame goodnefs and beauty, befides thofe com- mon to America j all which flouriOi here in a very uncommon degree ; fo that none of the parts of Peru, at leaft fuch as we vifited, are to be compared with thofe of the 4 • neighbour- ULLOA S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. 599 neighbourhood of Lima, where every place is covered with fruits and efculent vegetables. It alfo enjoys another fingular advantage, the whole year being, as it were, fummer with regard to the plenty and freflniefs of fruits ; for the feafons of the year varying alternately in Valles and the mountains, when the time of fruits is over in Valles, it begins on the fkirts of the mountains ; and the diftance from Lima being not above twenty-five or thirty leagues, they are brought thither, and by this means the city is conilantly fupplied with fruits, except a fcv/, as grapes, melons, and water-melons, which requiring a hot climate, do not come to perfedioa in the mountains. The grapes are of various kinds ; and among them, one called the Italian, very large and delicious. The vines extend themfelves on the furface of the ground, which is very well adapted to fupport them, being either ftony or full of fand. Thefe vines are pruned and watered at proper times, and thrive remarkably without any other care. No other culture is beftowed on thofe defigned for wine, for both at lea, Pifco, Nufca, and all other parts where they grow, they are formed into efpaliers. None of the grapes near Lima are ufed in making wine, the demand for them in other refpefts being" too hs^e. The foil is ftony and fandy, that is, confifting of fmooth flints or pebbles, which are fo numerous that as other foils are entirely fand, rock, or earth, this is wholly of the above ftones ; and in fome parts prove very inconvenient to travellers, whether in a carriage or on horfeback. The arable lands have a ftratum of about a foot or two of earth, but below tiiat the whole confifts entirely of ftones. From this circumftance, the fimilarity of all the neighbouring coafts, and the bottom of the fea, this whole fpace may be concluded to have been formerly covered by the ocean, to the diftance of three or four leagues, or even farther, beyond its prefent limits. This is parti- cularly obfervable in a bay about five leagues north of Callao, called Marques, v^here in all appearance, not many years fince, the fea covered above half a league of what is now Terra Firma, and the extent of a league and a half along the coalt. The rocks in the nioft inland part of this bay are perforated and fmoothed like thofe waflied by the waves ; a fi'.fficient proof that the fea formed thefe large cavities, and undermined fuch prodigious mafl'es as lie on the ground, by its continual elifions ; and it feems natural to think that the like muft have happened in the country contiguous to Lima, and that parts, confifting of pebbles like thofe at Jhe bottom of the adjacent fea, were formerly covered by the water. Another fingularity in this arid country is, the abundance of fprings, water being found every where with little labour, by digging only four or five feet below the furfoce. This may arife from two caufes ; the one, that the earth, being, from its compofition, very fpungy, the water of the fea eafily infinuates itielf to a great diftance, and is filtrated in palling through its pores. The other, that the many torrents, after defcending from the mountains, foon lofe themfelves in thefe plains, but continue their courfe along the fubterranean veins of the earth ; for this ftony quality of the foil from the nature of the fprings cannot extend to any great depth, and underneath it the ftratum is hard and compatl ; confequently the water muft be conveyed to the moft porous parts, which being the ftony, it there precipitates into a fubterranean courfe, leaving the furface dry. We have already obferved * that from many of the rivers in Valles, though apparently dry, the inhabitants procure a fufficient quantity * Chap. I. of this Part. of 600 ULI.OA's voyage to south AMERICA. of water by digging wells in the beds over which their waters run in the winter : others might be palled without being known, but the bottom confifting entirely of pebbles, wherever the beafl fet their feet, the water immediately oozes out. The reafon of this is, that the water at that time runs a little below the furface, and I do not doubt but the fame will be found in all Valles, though at different depths in diffe- rent places. This plenty of fubterraneous ftreams is doubtlefs of great advantage to the fertility of the country, particularly with regard to the larger plants, whofe roots ftrike deepeft ; and this feems a bountiful indulgence of the wife Author of Nature, who, to provide againll the fterility which would certainly aft'edt thefe countries from a want of water, has fent a fupply from the mountains, either in open rivers or fubterrane- ous canals. The lands in the jurifdidion of Chancay, like the other parts of the coafts of Peru, are manured with the dung of certain fea birds, which abound here in a very extraordinary manner. Thefe they call guanoes, and the dung guano, the Indian name for excrement in general. Thefe birds, after fpending the whole day in catch- ing their food in the fea, repair at night to reft on the iflands near the coaft, and their number being fo great as entirely to cover the ground, they leave a proportionable quantity of excrement or dung. This is dried by the heat of the fun into a cruft, and is daily increafmg, fo that notwithltanding great quantities are taken away, it is never exhaufted. Some will have this guano to be only earth endowed with the quality of raifing a ferment in the foil with which it is mixed. This opinion is founded on the prodigious quantities carried oft' from thofe iflands, and on the experiment made by digging or boring, by which the appearance at a certain depth, was the fame as at the fuperficies ; whence it is concluded, that the earth is naturally endowed with the heating quality of dung or guano. This would feem lefs improbable, did not both its appearance and fmell prove it to be the excrement in queftion. I was in thefe iflands when feveral barks came to load with it ; when the infupportable fmell left me no room to doubt of the nature of their cargo. I do not however pretend to deny, but that it may be mixed with earth, ox that the moft fuperficial part of the earth does not contraft the like virtue, fo as to produce the fame eftecl. But however it be, this is the manure ufed in the fields fowcd with maize, and with proper water- ings is found greatly to fertilize the foil, a little of it being put clofe to every ftem, and immediately watered. It is alfo of ufe in fields of other grain, except wheat and barley, and, confequently, prodigious quantities of it yearly ufed in agriculture. Befides the orchards, fields, and gardens, with which this country is fo delightfully variegated, there are other parts where nature itfelf fpontaneoufly furniflies beautiful profpefts for the inhabitants, and plenty of excellent food for their cattle ; particularly the hills of St. Chriftopher and Amancaes, whofe perpetual verdure, diverfified in ipring with elegant flowers, feems to invite the neighbouring inhabitants to a nearer enjoyment of the beauties it prefents at a diftance to their view. The parts in the neighbourhood of the city, to the diftance of fix or eight leagues, offer the like entertainment ; and accordingly many families refort thither for the change of air, and the tranquillity of rural amufement. The hills called Amancaes, already mentioned, have their name from a certain flower growing on them. It is yellow, and of the campanula form, with four pointed leaves. Its colour is remarkably brilliant, and in that wholly confifts its value, being totally void of fragrancy. Befides thefe delightful retreats, the city has a public walk in the fuburb of St. La^aro, called Alameda, confifting of rows of orange and lemon trees ; along the banks of 12 the ULLOa's VOYACK to south AMERICA. 601 the river is another, called the Acho, to w hich there is a daily refort of coaches and calafhes. The only monuments of antiquity remaining in the neighbourhood of Lima, are the guacas, or fepulchres of the Indians, and fome walls, which were built on both fides of the roads, and are frequently feen all over this country. But three leagues north-eafl of the city, in a valley called Guachipa, are ftill ftanding the walls of a large town. Through ignorance I did not vifit them whilfl I was at Lima : the account of them, however, which the ingenious Marquis de Valde Lyrios was pleafed to give me, may be equally relied on, as if related from my own knowledge ; efpecially as he took a very accurate furvey of the whole. He obferved, that the ftreets were very narrow ; that the walls of the houfes, which in common with ail the buildings of that time were without roofs, were only of mud, and that each houfe confided of three fmall fquare apartments. The doors towards the ftreet, were not fo high as the general ftature of a man, but the walls wanted little of three yards. Among all the houfes which compofed this large town, fituated at the foot of a mountain, is one, whofe walls overlook all the others, and thence it is concluded to have belonged to the cacique or prince ; though its ruinous condition renders it InipolTible to determine abfolutely. The inhabitants of this valley, where the fruitful fields are watered from the river Rimac, at no great diftance from thefe ruins, call them Old Caxamarca, though it cannot now be difcovered whether that was the real name of the town in the times of paganifm. For there neither remains any memorial of fuch tradition, nor any mention of it in the hiftories of that kingdom, written by Garcilazo and Herrera ; fo that all we know is, that the epithet Old is now appUed to it by way of diftindion from the prefent town of Caxamarca. One aftonifliing particular in the walls of this town, and in all others in the neigh- bouring valleys, is, that though built on the furface of the earth, without any founda- tion, they have withftood thofe violent earthquakes which overthrew the more folid buildings of Lima and other large towns erefted in the Spanifli manner : having received no other damage than what naturally refults from being forfaken, or what the drivers have done who make it a refting place for their cattle in the road to Lima. From the conftruftion of thefe houfes it may be inferred, that long experience has inftrucled the natives, that in parts fo fubjecl to earthquakes, it was improper to lay a foundation in order to ftrengthen the walls ; and tradition informs us, that when the newly-conquered Indians faw the Spaniards dig foundations for lofty buildings, they laughed at them, telling them they were digging their own fepulchres ; intimating, that the earthquakes would bury them under the ruins of their houfes. It is indeed a me- lancholy proof of pride and obftinacy, that after having the prudent example of the Indians before their eyes, the total ruin of the city, at four different times, in lefs than the fpace of two hundred years, has not been able entirely to eradicate the deftruftive paflion for airy and elegant buildings, though thefe necefiarily require large and lofty walls, which muft have a foundation proportioned to the magnitude of the ftrufture, and the weight they are to fupport. CHAP. IX. — Of the Plenty and different Kinds of Provifiom at Lima. THE fertility of the foil, the goodnefs of the climate, and the convenient fiiuation of Lima, concur to maintain in it a conftant plenty. The fruits and herbs have been VOL. XIV. 4 H already 6b2 ULLOA's voyage to SODtH AMERICA. already mentioned ; it remains that we confider the meat and fifli with which it is alC? equally provided. The bread at Lima is inconteftably the beft in all this part of America, both with regard to its colour and tafte, the goodnefs of the corn being improved by the manner of working it ; and at the fame time fo reafonable, that the inhabitants ufe no other. It is of three kinds : one called CrioUo, the crumb of which is very light and fpongy ; the fecond, French bread ; and the laft, foft bread. It is kneaded by negroes em- ployed by the bakers, many of whom are very rich, and their fhops always well pro- vided. Befides their own flaves, the bakers are alfo obliged to receive any delivered up to them by their mafters to vrork as a punifhment ; and for thefe, befides finding the flaves in provifions, they pay tl:e mailer the ufual wages in money or in bread. This punifhment is the fevereft that can be inflifted on them, and, indeed, all the hardfhips and cruelties of the galleys are lefs than what thefe wretches are obliged to undergo. They are forced to work the whole day, and part of the night, with Kttle food and lefs fleep ; fo that in a few days the moft vigorous and flubborn flave becomes weak and fubmilTive, and proftrates himfelf before his niaftcr, with tears, intreaties, and promifes of amendment on being removed from that place, the dread of which is doubtlefs of the greatefl ufe in awing the vaft number of flaves, both within and without the city. Their mutton is the moft common food, and is very palatable from the nitrous paftures where the fheep are fattened. The beef alfo is good, but little eaten except by the Europeans, fo that two or three beafts fupply the city for a week. Here is alfo plenty of poultry, partridges, turtle-doves, &c. Pork is alfo in great abundance,, though not equally delicate with that of Carthagena. The lard is ufed in drefTrngall kinds of difhes whether of flefh or fifh, oil being only ufed in falads and the like. This method of cookery is faid to have had its rife when the country afforded no oil, and has been continued to the prefent time, notwithftanding it is now produced in great quantities. Antonia de Rivero, an inhabitant of Lima, in the year 1660, planted the- firft olive-tree ever feen in Peru. From the mountains are often fent, by way of prefent, frozen calves ; being killed there, and left two or three days on the heaths to freeze ; after which they are carried to Lima, where they may be kept any time required, without the leaft tendency to putrefaftion. Of fifh there is ftill a greater variety daily brought from the neighbouring parts of Chorillos, Callao, and Ancon, the Indian inhabitants of which make fifhing their whole bufinefs. The moft palatable are the corbinas, and the pege reyes, or king's fifh ; but ihofe in the greateft plenty, and at the fame time very palatable, are the anchovies. The corbinas, and the king's fifh, infinitely excel thofe of Spain ; the latter is alfo remarkable for its fize, being generally fix or feven Paris inches in length ; yet even thefe are thought to be furpaflfed by thofe caught in Buenos Ayres river. It is a falt-water fifh, but very little different from that caught in the rivers of Spain. The river of Lima affords a fort of prawns, two or three inches in length, but thofe fhould rather be called cray-fifh. The whole coafts abound with fuch fhoals of anchovies, as exceed all comparifon j and befides the vaft quantities caught by fifhermen, they are the chief food of innumer- able flights of birds, with which all thofe iflands abound, and commonly called guanoes, poffibly from the guano or dung mentioned in the preceding chapter ; many of them are indeed alcatraces,- a kind of gull, though all comprehended under the generical name of guanoes. A little after the appearance of the fun, they rife from thofe illands ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 603 iflands in fuch large and thick flights as totally to cover them, and fly towards the fea for an hour or two, without any vifible decreafe of their number. When at fome dif- tance from the land they divide themielves, and begin their fifliing in a very entertain- ing manner. They fly in a circle at a confiderable height above the water, and, on feeing a fifli, they dart down with their beak foreraoft and their wings clofed with fuch force, that the agitation of the water is feen at a diftance ; after which, they rife again into the air, and devour the fifli. Sometimes they remain a confiderable time under water, and rife at fome diftance from the place where they fell, doubtlefs becaufe the fifli has endeavoured to efcape, thus difputing celerity with them in their own element. They are continually feen in the place they frequent, fome watching in gyrations, fome darting down, others rifmg with their prey ; while their great numbers render this con- ■fufion diverting to the fpedlator. When they are either tired or fatisfied, they alight upon the waves, and, at fun-fet, forming themfelves into one body, withdraw to the iflands where they pafs the night. At the port of Callao it is obferved, that all the birds which reft on thofe iflands to the north of it, in the morning univerfally fly towards the fouth in queft of prey, re- turning in the evening to their place of reft ; when the middle of the flight is over the harbour, neither the beginning nor end can be feen, and the whole flock take up two or three hours in pafling over. Though fhell-fifh are very fcarce along this coaft, fome are found near Callao 5 particularly a kind, the fliell of which refembles that of a mufcle, though umch larger. The fiih itfelf has more the appearance of an oyfter, and much the fame tafte. The wines at Lima are of different forts, white, red, and dark red : and of each fort fome are very generous and delicious. They are imported from the coafts of Nafca, Pifco, Lucumba, and Chili ; but the latter produces the beft, and among them fome mufcadel. The wine of Nafca is white, and has the leaft demand of any, being in- ferior to the others, both in quality and tafte. That from Pifco has the greateft fale ; and, from the fame place, come all the brandies, either ufed at Lima or exported ; no Tum being either made or ufed here. Moft of the dried fruits are brought from Chili ; and, by means of the trade carried on between the two kingdoms, Lima is fupplied with all manner of fruits known in Spain, as almonds, walnuts, filberts, pears, apples, &c. fo that their tables cannot, in this refped:, fail of plenty and elegance, having at one time the fruits of the different feafons, both of America and Europe. But amidft this plenty, every thing is very dear, the price being four or five times as much as at Quito, bread only excepted. Wine, oil, and dried fruits, are fome of the cheapeft. The poor clafs, however, as the negroes and other cafts, live tolerably well, fifti, which is little efteemed by the opulent, felling at a low price ; the fame may be faid of mutton and beef, with regard to the inhabitants of this country in general.* Sweetmeats are alfo here in the fame plenty as in the other parts of South America, though feldom eaten, except as deferts, and even then very moderately. Inftead of chocolate, mate or Paraguay tea is generally ufed, and prepared twice a day. Though this has here the defed already obferved, it is better prepared than in any other part. * A quarter of their beft beef may be boujrht for eight rials (33. 7d. fterling) ; the hide of a beaft being, commonly, of more value than the carcafe. A. 4H 2 CHAP, 6o4 ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. CHAP. X. — Trade and Commerce of Lima. THE city of Lima could not have attained to fuch fplendour, if, befides being the capital of Peru, it had not been alfo the general ftaple of the kingdom. But as it is the refidence of the government and chief tribunals, fo it is alfo the common factorv for commerce of every kind, and the centre of the products and manufaclures of the other provinces, together with thofe of Europe, brought over in the galleons or regif- ter-ftiips ; and from hence they are diflributed through the vail extent of thefe king- doms, whofe wants are fupplied from Lima, as their common mother. At the head of this commerce is the tribunal Del Confulado, which appoints commiiTaries to refide in the other cities of its dependencies, extending through all Peru. All the wealth of the fouthern provinces is brought to Lima, where it is embarked on board the fleet, which, at the time of the galleons, fails from Callao to Panama. The proprietors of the treafure commit it to the merchants of Lima, who traffic at the -fair with this and their own ftock. The fame fleet returns to the harbour of Paita, where the European merchandizes of value purchafed at Porto Bello fair are landed, in order to avoid the delay of failing to Callao, and fent by land to Lima, on droves of mules ; but thofe of lefs value are carried thither by the fame (hips. On the arrival of thefe commodities at Lima, the merchants remit to their correfpon- dents fuch parts as they had a commiflion to purchafe, referving the refl: in warehoufes to difpofe of on their own account to traders, who at this time refort to Lima, or fend them to their factors in the inland provinces, who remit the returns in money or bills of exchange to their principals at Lima. Thefe confignments are repeated till they have difpofed of their whole ftock. Thus the cargo of a flotilla lalls a confiderable time, there being no immediate vent for the whole. The produce of the fales in the inland parts of the kingdom, is fent to Lima in bars of filver, and pignas *, and is coined at the mint in this citv. Thus the traders have not only a great profit in the fale of their goods, but alfo in tlie returns of their filver, which they take at a lower rate than is allowed them for it. All thefe fales may be confidered as an exchange of one commodity for another ; for he who fells the goods agrees both 'with regard to their price, at the rate in which he is to take the filver bars, or pignas ; and thus two fpecies ot trade are tranfacted at the fame time, one on a fale of goods, and the other of filver. 'fhe remittances fent to Lima during the interval between the flotillas, are laid cut in raanufadf ures of the country, great quantities of which come from the proviuce of Quito ; and this trade is carried on in all refpecis like the former ; for the confumption of them being equal or rather larger, they are not iefs necelfar)' here than in Europe, being worn by all the lower clafs of people, who cannot afford the price of the Euro- pean ftuifs ; and the generality of traders who come to Lima purchafe fluffs of both kinds, that they may be provided with aflfortments for cuftomers of all ranks. Befides this commerce, which is the moft confiderable, and tranfafted wholly by means of this city, Lima has alfo its particular trade with the kingdoms both of North and South America. The moft confiderable coir.modity received from the former is fnuff", which is brought from the Havannah to Mexico, and after being there improved, is forwarded to Lima, and from thence fent into the other provinces. This trade is * Pignas are porous light mafTes of filver, being an amalgam of mercury and dull taken out of the mines. carried ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 605 carried on nearly in the fame manner as that of Panama ; but thofe who deal in this commodity, never trouble themfelves with any other except perfumes, as ambergrife, mulk, &c. and porcelain ware. Some of thefe traders are fettled at Lima ; others re- fide there occafionally, but are in general factors to the merchants at Mexico. Lima alfo receives from the ports of New Spain naphtha, tar, iron, and fome indigo for dyeing. The kingdom of Terra Firma fends to Lima leaf-tobacco, and pearls, which here meet with a good market ; for befides the great numbers worn by the ladies, no mu- latto woman is without fome ornament or other made of them. During a free affiento of negroes, this commerce is always carried by way of Panama, and to a confiderable amount. The ladies, and indeed women of all ranks, have a very ancient cuftom, namely, the carrying in their mouths a limpion, or cleanfer, of tobacco. The firft intention of this was to keep the teeth clean, as the name itfelf intimates. Thefe limpions are fmall rolls of tobacco, four inches in length, and nine lines in diameter, and tied with a thread, which they untwifL as the limpion wafles. One end of this they put into their mouth, and after chewing it for fome time, rub the teeth with it, and thus keep them always clean and white. The lower clafs of people, who generally pervert the beft things, carry this cuftom to fuch excefs, as to keep continually in their mouths a roll of tobacco, an inch and a half in diameter ; afFeSing to diftinguifli themfelves by the largenefs of their limpions, though it abfolutely disfigures them. This cuftom, toge- ther with that of fmoaking, which is equally common among the men, occafions a great demand for leaf-tobacco. The limpions are made of Guayaquil tobacco mixed with fome of that brought from the Havannah to Panama ; but that ufed in fmoaking comes from Santa Mayobamba, Jaen de Bracamaros, Llulla, and Chillaos, where it grows in the greateft plenty, and is beft adapted to that purpofe. All the timber ufed in building houfes, refitting fhips, or building fmall barks at Callao, is brought from Guayaquil, together with the cacao ; but the confumption of the latter is here very fmall, the Paraguay tea being more generally ufed. The timber trade is carried on by the mafters of fliips, who bring it hither on their own account, as we have already obferved in defcribing Guayaquil, and, depofiting it in ftore-houfes at Callao, fell it as opportunity offers. The coafts of Nafca and Pifco fend to Lima wine, brandy, raifins, olives, and oil : and the kingdom of Chili, wheat, flour, lard, leather, cordage, wines, dried fruits, and fome gold. Befides thefe, all forts of goods are alfo laid up at Callao, in ftore- houfes built for that purpofe ; fome on account of the owners who remit them, others for mafters of fhips who purchafe them on the fpot where they grow, or are made. Every Monday duri«g the whole year there is a fair at Callao, whither the proprietors and dealers refort from all parts ; and the goods are carried, according to the buyers' diredlion, on droves of mules kept there for that purpofe by the mafters of the ware- houfes, and whofe profit wholly confifts in the hire of thefe beafts. The provifions brought to Lima are not only fufficient to fupply its numerous inha- bitants, but great quantities of all kinds are fent to Quito, and its jurifdiftion, to Valles, and Panama. Copper and tin in bars are brought from Coquimbo ; from the moun- tains De Caxamarca and Chacapoyas, canvas made of cotton for fails and other ftuffs of that kind, and alfo of Pita : cordovan leather, and foap, are made all over Valles*. * Their cotton canvas is not above four inches wide, fo that fail-making in this part of America is very tedious ; but their fails made of this narrow canvas are very ftrong and lading. A. From 6o6 ulloa's voyage to south America. From the fouthern provinces, as Plata, Oruro, Potofi, and Cufco, Is fent vicuna wool for making hats, and fome ftufFs of a {>eculiar finenefs. Lailly, from Paraguay the herb called by that name is fent, of which there is an amazing confumption, it being fent from Lima among the other provinces, as far as Quito. There is no province in Peru, which does not remit to Lima its products and manufactures, and fupplies itfelf firom hence with the neceflax}- commodities. Thus Lima is the emporium to which people refort from ail parts ; and trade being always in a conftant circulation, befides the continual refort of flrangers, the families of rank are enabled to fupport the ex- pences of that fplendour I have already mentioned ; for, -without fuch continual aflift- ance, they mud either contract their expences, or fall \-ictims to their oitentation. It would naturally be imagined that bv a commerce fo extenfive and important, many vaft fortunes muft be acquired, efpecially as ever}" branch of it is attended with great profits ; but if there are fome who actually do acquire great riches, neither their num- ber nor opulence are equal to what might be expected ; for by a narrow infpection, there will hardly be found above ten or fifteen houfes of trade, excluTive of immove- ables, as lands and offices, whofe ftock in money and goods amounts to five or fix hun- dred thoufand cro^wTis ; and to one that exceeds this fum, there are more that fall fliort of it. Many poifefs from one to three hundred thoufand crowr.;, and thel'e are indeed the perfons who compofe the main body of trade- Befides thefe there are great numbers of inferior traders, whcfe capitals do not exceed fifty or a hundred thoufand crowns. The paucity of immenfe fortunes araidft fuch advantages is doubtfefs owing to the enormous expences; whence, though their gains are great, they can hardly fupport their credit; fo that after r:vyiiig the fortunes of their daughters, and the eflablifhing their fons, the •wealth of moit lamilies terminaces with the lire oi him who raifed it, being divided into as many fmall flocks as he had dependents ; unlefs feme, either by induflry or good fortune, improve the pordon they obtained bv inheritance. The inhabitants of Lima have a natural difpofirion and aptitude for commerce, and the city may be confidered as an academy to which great numbers repair to perfea themfelves in the various arts of trade. They both penetrate into the fineffes of the feller, and artfully draw the purchafer into their \iews. They are bleffed with a re- markable talent of perfuafion, at the fame time that they are incapable of being per- fuaded, as well as of artfully eluding cbjecrions. They affect to flight what they are mofl defirous of purchafmg, and by that means often make yerj advantageous bargains, which none can obtain fi-om them. But after all thefe precautions and fineffes in buy- ing and felling, for which they are fo diflinguifhed, none are more punctual and honour- jible in performing their contracts. Befides the (hops where fluffs and goods of that kind are fold, there are others for fhuff ; and in thefe may be purchafed the wrought plate, which is bought in the cities near the mines, where it is made. The wholefale traders, who have large warehoufes, are not above keeping (hops where they fell by retail, which is reckoned no difgrace ; and thus they gain that profit which they muft otherwife allow to others. And from this indulgence granted to every branch of commerce, it flourifhes very greatly. There are, however, many families, who, as I have already obfer^'ed, fupport a proper fplendor entirely by the revenue of their eftates, without joining in the cares and hurry of commerce. But a greater num- ber with eftates, add the advantages of commerce, in order to preferve them. Thefe. however, deal only at the fairs of the galleons, and in other lar-? rr;mches of commerce ; and find the benefit of having abandoned thofe fcruples brought by their an>:eftors firom Spain, namely, that trade would tamiih the luftre of their nobiliry. 1 2 CHAP. ulloa's voyage to south AMERICA. Coy CHAP. XI. — Extent of the Jurifdidion of the Viceroy of Peru : together -inHh the Audi- ences and Diocefes of that Kingdom. THE foregoing accounts naturally lead to the extent of the audience of Lima, and the jurifdiftion of the viceroy of Peru. But fuch a particular defcription as I have already given of Quito, requiring a perfonal knowledge of all its provinces, and jurifdictions, and alfo a particular work, from the extenfivenefs of the fubject, I fhall confine myfelf to fome principal accounts, but which will convey an adequate idea of the vaft domi- nions of this country. In order to this I have confulted feveral perfons, fome of which have been vefted with high employments here, and others whofe commendable curiofity, as natives of this country, had prompted them to acquire an exa£t knowledge of it. This was a refource of abfolute neceffity ; no opportunity having offered of vifiting the inland parts of thefe countries ; and the accounts we received of them at Lima, were not to be depended upon, with that confidence neceflary to their being inferted here ; for confidering the vaft diftance between the capital and fome provinces, it is no wonder they are but little known at Lima. The reader will therefore indulge me in giving a fuperficial account of fome ; for according to the method in which I began to write the hiftory, we Ihall infert fuch particulars only as are authentic ; it being un- doubtedly more advantageous to fay a little with truth, than to engage in prolix and uncertain particulars. In order the better to defcribe the countries governed by the viceroy of Peru, without departing from the plan hitherto obferved, I fhall divide the whole jurifdiftion of its government into thofe audiences of which it confifts ; thefe into the diocefes they con- tain ; and the diocefes into jurifdittions under a corregidor. The viceroyalty of Peru in South America, extends over thofe vafl countries, included in the jurifdictions of the audience of Lima, Los Charcas, and Chili ; and in thefe are comprehended the governments of Santa Cruz de la Sierra, Paraguay, Tucuman, and Buenos Ayres. Though thefe three provinces and the kingdom of Chili have particu- lar governors inverted with all the authority agreeable to fuch a charader, and as fuch are abfolute in political, civil, and military affairs, yet, in fome cafes, are fubordinate to the viceroy ; for inftance, on the death of any inferior governor, the vacancy is fupplied by him. Before the ere£Hon of the viceroyalty of the new kingdom of Granada in 1739, that of Peru, as we have already obferved, extended to the countries of the two audiences of Terra Firma and Quito ; but thofe being then feparated from it, the bounds of it on the north were the jurifdiftion of Piura, which extends to thofe of Guayaquil and Loxa, and that of Chacapayas, which joins to the government of Jaen de Braca« moros. Thus the viceroyalty of Peru begins at the bay of Guayaquil, at the coaft of Tumbez, ia 3° 25' fouth latitude, and reaches to the land of Magellan in 50", confe- quently it extends one thoufand and twelve fea leagues. Eaftward it partly terminates on Brazil, being bounded by the celebrated line, or meridian of demarkation, or that which feparates the dominions of Spain and Portugal, and on the coaft of the North Sea : and on the weft is terminated by the South Sea. The audience of Lima, erected in the year 1542, though it was the year 1544 before any fefTion was held in that cit)', contains within its jurifdiftion one archbifhoprick, and four bifhoprics, viz. The archbifhopric of Lima, and the bifhoprics of Truxillo, Guamanga, Cufco, and Arequipa. The 6o8 dlloa's voyage to south ameiuca. The archbifhopric of Lima, to which the precedence in every refpect belongs, fhall be the fubject of this chapter. It contains fourteen jurifdiftions, which I fhall treat of in the order of their fituation, beginning with thofe neareft the capital, and concluding with thofe which are mofl remote : the fame method fhall alfo be obferved in the other diocefes. I. The Curcado or circuit of Lima, IX. Yauyos. II. Chancay. X. Caxatambo. III. Santa. XI. Sarma. IV. Canta. • XII. Jouxa. V. Cancte. XIII. Conchucos. VI. lea, Pifco, and Nafca. XIV. Guyalas. VII. Guarachia. XV. Guamalies. VIII. Guanuco. I. II. III. The jurifdidions of Lima, Chancay, and Santa have been already defcribed in Chap. III. IV. The jurifdidion of Canta begins at the diftance of five leagues north-north-eaft of Lima, where it terminates on the curcado of that city. It extends above thirty leagues, and the greater part of them taken up by the firfl branch of the Cordillera of the Andes ; fo that the temperature of the air is different in different parts of the country ; that part which lies low or among the valleys being hot, thofe on the fliirts of the mountains, which are alfo intermixed with feme plains, temperate ; and thofe in the upper parts of the mountains cold. This difference of air is of great advantage both to the fruits of the earth and pafl;ures ; for by appropriating every fpecies to its proper degree of heat, the produce is large, and exceedingly good. Among all the fruits the papa is particularly diftinguiflied, and the roots carried to Lima, where they meet with a good market. The vaft fields of boinbon, part of wliich belongs to this jurifdiftion, are by their high fituation always cold ; yet they aff'ord pafture for innu- merable flocks of flieep. Thefe extenfive tracts of land are divided into haciendas, or cfl;ates belonging to noble families of Lima. At Guamantanga, one of the towns in this jurifdiftion, is a miraculous crucifix, devoutly worfliipped ; the inhabitants of Lima, and the neighbouring country, go thither in pilgrimage at Whitfuntide to aflift at a fef- tival, infliituted particularly in honour of it. V. The town of Canete is the capital of the jurifdiftion of its name. Its jurifdiftion begins at the diflance of fix leagues fouth from Lima, and extends along the coaft in the fame rhumb above thirty leagues. The temperature of the air in this jurifdiftion is the fame with that in the valleys of Lima ; and the country being watered by a large river, and other lefler flreams, produced vaft quantities of wheat and maize. Great part of the lands are planted with canes, from whence they extrad; an excellent fugar. Thefe profitable trafts of land belong alfo to noble families. In the neighbourhood of Chilca, fituated about ten leagues from Lima, is found faltpetre of which gunpowder is made at that city. Befides thefe advantages it has a good fifliery, which affords a com- fortable fubfiflence to the Indian inhabitants of the towns, particularly thofe fituated near the fea-coafl : together with plenty of fruits, pulfe, and poultry, the breeding of which is another occupation of the Indians ; whence a large trade is carried on between this jurifdidion and Lima. VI. lea, Pifco, and Nafca, arc three towns which denominate this jurifdiftion ; one part of it runs along the coafl: fouthward, and its territories extend above fixty leagues ; 3 but WLLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 609 but are intermixed v/ith fome deferts, and the country being fandy^ thofe parts which are beyond the reach oi: the trenches cut from the rivers are generally barren. I fav generally, becaufe there are fome trads, which, ^vithout the benefit of an artificial watering, are planted with vines, and produce excellent grapes, the roots being fup- phed with moifture from the internal humidity of the earth. Great quantities of wines are made from them, and chiefly exported to Callao, and from thence to Guayaquil and Panama ; alfo to Guamanga, and other inland provinces : they alfo extraft from thefe wines great quantiries of brandy. Some parts of this jurifdiftion are planted with olive-trees, which produce excellent fruit either for eating or oil. The fields, which are watered by the trenches, yield an uncommon plenty of wheat, maize, and fruits. The jurifdiction of lea is remarkable for fpacious woods of algarrobales or carob-trees, with the fruit of which the inhabitants feed vaft numbers of afles, for the ufes of aeri- O culture. The Indians who live near the fea apply themfelves to fifhing, and after fak- ing carry it to the towns among the mountains, where they never fail of a good market. VII. The jurifdiclioa of Guarachia contains the firft chain and part of the fecond of the mountains, extending itfelf along thefe chains above forty leagues. This province begins about fix leagues eaft of Lima. From the difpofition of its parts, thofe places only which lie in the valley, and in the breaches of the mountains, are inhabited ; and thefe are very fertile, producing great quantities of fruit, wheat, barley, maize, and other grain. In its mountains are feveral filver mines, though but few of them are wrought, being none of the richelf. VIII. Guanuco is a city and the capital of its jurifdiction, which begins forty leagues north-eaft of Lima. This city was fornierly one of the principal in thefe kingdoms, and the fettlement of fome of the firft conquerors ; but at prefent in fo ruinous a con- dition, that the principal houfes where thefe great men lived remain as it were only monuments of its former opulence. The other parts of it can hardly be compared to an Indian town. The temperature of the air in the greatell part of its territories is very pure and mild ; and the foil fruitful. Several kinds of fweetmeats and jellies are made here, and fold to other provinces. IX. The jurifdiftion of Yauyos begins twenty leagues fouth-eall from Lima, and takes up part of the firft and fecond chain of the Cordilleras ; confequently the tempe- rature of the air is different in different parts. The greateft length of this jurifdiftion is about thirty leagues, and abounds in fruit, wheat, barley, maize, &c. whilft other parts are continually clothed with verdure, and feed numerous herds and flocks for the markets of Lima ; and thefe are the moft confiderable articles of its commerce. X. The jurifdiction of Caxatamba, which begins thirtj'-five leagues north of Lima, extends about twenty leagues, and partly among the mountains, whence the tempera- ture of the air is various ; but the whole territory is very fertile in grain. It has alfo fome filver mines, which are worked, and the Indians have manufactures of bays, which make part of the trade of this jurifdi£tion. XI. The jurifdiction of Sarma is one of the largeft in this archbifhopric. It begins forty leagues north-eaft from Lima, and terminates eaftward on a tract of land inhabited by wild Indians, called Maran-cochas, who often make inroads into the territories of this jurifdicT:ion. The difference of the air in its feveral parts, renders it capable of producing ail kinds of grain and fruits, which the inhabitants are not wanting to improve. The temperate parts are fown with wheat, barley, maize, and other grain j while the colder parts afford pafture to infinite numbers of cattle of all kinds. This province is alfo rich in filver mines ; and as many of them are worked, they fpread affluence all over the country. Befides thefe important four..es of commerce, and that VOL. XIV, 41 of 6lO ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. of the cattle, the making of bays and other coarfe fluffs, profitably employ great num- bers of Indians in mofl of its towns. XII. The jurifdiftion of Jouxa borders on the fouthern extremity of the former, and begins about forty leagues eafl of Lima, and extends forty more along the fpacious valleys and plains between the two Cordilleras of the Andes. In the middle of it runs a large river, called alfo Jouxa, the fource of which is in the lake of Chincay-Choca, in the province of Sarma. It is alfo one of the branches of the river of the Amazons. The whole jurifdiftion of this province is divided into two parts by the river, and in both are feveral handfome towns, well inhabited by Spaniards, Meflizos, and Indians. The foil produces plenty of wheat and other grain, together with a great variety of fruits. It has alfo a confiderable fliare of trade, being the great road to the provinces of Cufco, Paz, Plata, and others to the fouthward, here called Tiera de Ariba, or the Upper Country. Like the former, it borders eaftward on the wild Indians of the moun- tains, but among which the order of St. Francis has eflablifhed feveral mifTions, the firfl being in the town of Ocopa. Within its dependances are feveral filver mines, fome of which being worked, greatly increafe the riches of this province. XIII. The jurifdiction of Conchucos begins forty leagues north-north-eaft of Lima, and extends along the center of the Cordillera ; fo that its air is different according to the height of the fituation of its feveral parts, the mildefl of which produce all kinds of grain and fruits, and the others, where the effects of the cold checks this fertility, afford pafture for cattle of all kinds. In this jurifdiclion are great numb^s of looms ; the principal occupatiofi of the Indians being feveral kinds of woollen manufaftures, and thefe conftitute the greatefl part of its commerce with other provinces. XIV. The province of Guyalas, like the former, extends along the center of the Cordillera, beginning fifty leagues from Lima, and in the fame direction as the other ; this jurifdiftion is large, and has different temperatures of air. The low parts produce grain and fruits, the upper abound in cattle and fheep, which form the greatefl branch of their trade. XV. The lafl is that of Guamalies, which, like the former, is fituated in the center of the Cordillera, confequently its air very different. This jurifdiftion begins eighty leagues north-eail of Lima, and its fituation being rather cold than temperate, few places are fertile in its whole extent, which is above forty leagues. The Indian inhabitants of the towns apply themfelves to weaving, and make a great variety of bays, ferges, and other fluffs, with which they carry on a very confiderable trade with the other provinces, deflitute of fuch manufadlures. The preceding provinces, together with the following in the audience of Lima, as in thofe belonging to Charcas, are full of towns, villages and hamlets, inhabited by Spaniards, Meflizos, and Indians ; but with fome difference, the number of Spaniards being greater in fome, and in others that of the Indians. Many of them are indeed folely inhabited by the latter. The diilance from the capital of the province, efpecially to the towns fituated on its frontiers, being fo great, as to render it impoffible for the corregidor to difcharge his office every where with the neceffary punduality and atten- tion, the province is divided into feveral diflrids, confifting of three or four towns, more or lefs, according to their largenefs and diflance ; and over thefe is placed a delegate. Every fettlement of any confequence maintains a prieft ; and fo commendable is their provifion in this refpeft, that fometimes two, three, or more fmall places join to fup- port one, either alone or with a curate ; fo that fome ecclefiaflics have diflant fettle- ments under their care. Thefe incumbents are either feculars or regulars,* according to ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. 6ll to the right acquired by each of thefe clafles, as having been employed in the conver- fion of the Indians immediately after the conqueft. CHAP. XII. — Of the Provinces in the Diocefes of Truxillo, Guamanga, Cufco, and Areqiiipa. NORTH of the archiepifcopal diocefe of Lima, lies the bilhopric of Truxillo, and with it terminates on that fide both the j urifdidlion of that audience, and the viceroyalty of Peru : but the whole extent of this diocefe is not under the jurifdiclion of this audi- ence, nor of that of the viceroy : for it alfo includes the government of Jaen de Braca- moros, which, as we have already obferved, belongs to the province and audience of Quito. We fhall therefore exclude it, and only give an account of the feven jurif- diftions in the diocefe of Truxillo belonging to the viceroyalty of Peru, and the audience of Lima. Jurifdidtions in the diocefe of Truxillo : I. Truxillo. V. Chachapayas. II. Sana. . VI. LluHa, and Chilloas. III. Piura. VII. Pataz, or Caxamarquilla. IV. Caxamarca. I. II. III. A fufficient account having already been given TChap. I. II.) of the jurif- diftions of Truxillo, Sana, and Piura, it only remains to fpeak of the other four. IV. Caxamarca lies to the eaftward of Truxillo, and its jurifdidion extends along a vaft interval betwixt the two Cordilleras of the Andes. It enjoys a fertility of all kinds of corn, fruits, and efculent vegetables ; alfo cattle, flieep, and efpecially hogs, of which they fell vaft numbers to the farmers in the valleys, who, after fattening them with maize, fend them to the markets in the great towns ; particularly the farmers of the valley of Chincay and others, who derive a confiderable trade in thefe creatures at Lima, Truxillo, and other flourifliing places. The Indians throughout this jurifdiftion weave cotton for fhips' fails, bed-curtains, quilts, and other ufes, which are fent into the other provinces. Here are alfo fome filver mines, but of little confequence. V. On the fame fide, but more towards the eafl:, lies the jurifdi£tion of Chachapayas. Its temperature is hot, being without the Cordilleras, and to the eaftward its territories have a low fituation. It is of great extent, but very thinly inhabited ; and the produfts of the earth only fuch as naturally flourifli in fuch a climate. The Indians here are very ingenious in making cottons, particularly tapeftry, which, for the livelinefs of the colours and delicacy of the work, make an elegant appearance ; thefe, together with the fail-cloth, bring great profits to this country, being highly valued in the other provinces. VI. South of Chachapayas, and alfo on the eaft fide of the Cordillera of the Andes, lies the jurifdiftion of Llullaand Chilloas, which is low, warm and moift, and covered with woods, fo that great parts of it are uninhabited. It borders on the river of Maya- bamba, which, beginning its courfe from thefe fouthern provinces of Peru, forms the river of the Amazons, as we have already obferved. The principal commodity of this country is tobacco, which, with a particular kind of almonds called andes, and a few other fruits natural to its climate, form the commerce carried on by this province with the others. 4 I 2 VII, 6l2 ULLOA S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. VII. The laft jurifditlion of this diocefe is that of Pataz, or Caxamarquilhi. From its different fituations it has a variety of products ; but is particularly remarkable for gold mines ; its chief commerce confifting in exchanging that metal for current money, efpecially filver coin, which is the more efteemed here for its fcarcity. Guamanga the fecond diocefe : The city of Guamanga, the capital of this diocefe, was founded in the year 1539, by Don Francifco Pizarro, on the fite of an Indian village of the fame name. The Spa- niards added the name of San Juan del la Viftoria, in memory of the precipitate retreat of Manco the Ynca, from Pizarro, who offered him battle. This city was founded for the conveniency of the trade carried on between Lima and Cui'co ; for during this long diftance, there was at that time no town, whence the travellers frequently fuffered by the incurfions of Manco's army. This gave occafion to building the city on the fpot where the Indian village flood, though extremely inconvenient with regard to provifions, as lying contiguous to the great chain of the Andes ; but the war being happily termi- nated by the entire defeat of Manco's party, the city was removed to its prefent fituation. Its jurifdiction, regulated at the time of its foundation, began at the frontiers of Jouxa, and reached to the bridge of Valcas ; but at prefent it is bounded by the provinces which furround it, and contains the town of Anco, about three leagues from it : the city is fituated on the declivities of fome mountains not remarkable for their height, which, ex- tending fouthward, inclofe a fpacious plain to the eaftvvard of the town, watered by a fmall Itream defcending from the neighbouring mountains ; but the ground on which the city is built being higher than the breach through which the river flow?, the inha- bitants were obliged to provide themfelves with fmall fountains. Among the number of inhabitants, Guamanga boaflsat leafl of twenty noble families, who live in the center of the town, in i'pacious houfes of a cenfiderable height, built partly of ftone, and covered with tiles. Befides the largenefs of the apartments, they have extenfive gardens and orchards, though it is no fmall difficulty to keep thcfe in order, on account of the fcarcity of water. The large Indian fuburbs round the city add greatly to its extent, and the houfes though low are chiefly of flone, and roofed, which confulerably augments the appearance of the city. This is indeed the general manner of building in the towns of this kingdom, remote from the coaft. The cathedral is very fplcndid, and its chapter, befides the bifhop, confifls of a dean, archdeacon, chanter, two canons by compofition, a penitentiary, and two prebendaries. It has a feminary for the fcrvice of the church, under the title of St. Chriff opher. The church of this feminary is that belonging to theparifh of the Spaniards, and another de- dicated to St. Ann, the parifli-church of the Indians. Befides thefe are the chapels of Carmenca, Belin, St. Sebaitian, and St. John the Baptift, depending on it. Ihe parifli of Magdalena, inhabited by Indians, is under the care of the Dominicans, and the in- cumbent has the title of priell. The city has alfo an univerfity, \.ith profelfors of philo- ibphy, divinity, and law, and equal privileges with that of Lima, they being both royal foundations. The corporation is compofed of the principal nobility of the city, at the head of which is the corregidor, and out of this body the alcaldes are chofen, to fuper- intend the civil and political government. Within the walls of this city are the convents of St. Dominic, St. Francis, the fathers of Mercy, St. Augufiine, St. Juan de Dios, a college of Jefuits, an hofpital of St. Francis de Paula. The nunneries are of the order of St. Clare, and the Carmelites ; and a reli- gious fifterhood. 2 The ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 613 The jurifdiftions in the diocefe of Guamanga, are L Guamanga. VI. Angaraes. II. Guanta. VII. Caftio Vineyna. III. Vilcas Guaman. VIII. Parina-Cccha. IV. Andogualas. IX. Lucanas. V. Guanca Belica. I. The jurifdidtion of Guamanga enjoys in every part fo good a temperature, that it abounds in variety of grain, fruit, and cattle, and is very populous. One part of its commerce confifts in bend-leather for foles of fhoes, which are cut out here. Conferves and fweetmeats are here made in great quantity. II. The juiitdidion of Guanta, which lies north-north-weft of Guamanga, begins a little above four leagues from that city, and is in length about thirty leagues. It is very happy in the temperature of the climate, and fertility of the earth ; but its filver mines, which were formerly very rich, ai'e now greatly exhaufted. In an ifland formed by the river Jouxa, called in that country Tayacaxa, grows in re;narkable plenty the caca al- ready mentioned. This herb, and the lead produced from the mines of that metal in this country, are the branches of its commerce. It fupplies the city of Guamanga with great part of its corn and fruits. III. South-eaft of Guamanga, and between fix and feven leagues from that city, is Vilcas Guaman, which extends above thirty leagues. The greateft part of this country lying in a temperate air, befides a fufficiency of corn and fruits, and efculent vegetables, has very fine paftures, in which are bred vail quantities of cattle of all kinds. The In* dians in the towns of this jurifdiftion apply themfelves to weaving bays, corded ftufFs, and other branches of the woollen manufactory, which are carried to Cufco, and other provinces ; but this trade is rendered very laborious by the great diftance of the feveral places. Here is ftill remaining a fort built by the old Indians, and refembles that al- ready defcribed, near the town of Cannar ; at the town of Vilcas Guaman was another, very famous, but taken down in order to erect a church with the ftones. IV. Eaft, a little inclining to the fouth of Guamanga, is Andogualas, extending eaft- ward along an intermediate fpace between two branches of the, Cordillera, above twenty miles, having the advantage of being watered by feveral fmall rivers. Its climate is partly hot, and partly temperate, fo that the foil, being watered by thefe ftreams, pro- duces all kinds of fruits and grain in great plenty, efpecially maize, wheat, and fugar- canes. This province is one of the moft populous in all thofe parts ; in it the gentry of Guamanga have large fugar plantations. V. The government of Guanca Belica begins thirty leagues north of Guamanga. The town which gives name to this government was founded on account of the famous rich quickfilver mine ; and to the working it, the inhabitants owe their whole fubfift- ence, the coldnefs of the air checking the growth of all kinds of grains and fruits, fo that they are obliged to purchafe them from their neighbours. The towm is noted for a water where fuch large petrifaftions are formed, that the inhabitants ufe them in build- ing houfes, and other works. The quickfilver mines wrought here fupply with that neccfiary mineral all the filver-mines of Peru ; and notwithftanding the prodigious quan- titieii already extrafted no diminution is perceived. Some attribute the difcovery of thefe mines to a Portuguefe, called Henrique Garces, in the year 1566, who accident, ally met an Indian with fome pieces of cinnaber, called by the Indians, Ilimni, and ufed in painting their faces. But others, anicng whom are Acofta, Laett, and Efcalona, fay that the mines of Guanca Belica were difcovered by a Navincopa, or Indian, and fer- vanf 6 14 ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. vant to Amador Cabrera ; and that before the year 1 564, Pedro Contreras and Hen- rique Garces had difcovered another mine of the fame kind at Patas, But however it ■ be, the mines of Guanca Belica are the only ones now worked ; and the ufe of quick- filver for aggregating the particles of fdver began in the year 1571, under the direction of Petro Fernandes Velafco. The mines of Guanca Belica immediately on the difcovery were claimed in the King's name, and alternately governed by one of the members of the audienza of Lima, with the title of fuperintendant, vvhofe office expired at the end of five years, till in the year 1735, when Phihp V. appointed a particular governor of thefe mines, with the fame title of fuperintendant, but thoroughly acquainted with the" nature of extradting this mineral, having been employed in thofe of tlie fame nature in Spain ; and by his economy the mines are worked with lefs charge, and will not be fo foon exhaufted. Part of the quickfilver found here is fold on the fpot to the miners, and the remainder fent to all the royal offices in the kingdom of Peru, for the more com- modious fupply of thofe whofe mines are at a great diftance. VI. The jurifdiction of Angaraes depends on the government of Guanca Belica, and begins about twenty leagues weft-noi th-weft of the city of Guamanga. Its territories reach above twenty leagues ; its air is temperate, and it abounds in wheat, maize, and other grains and fruits, and alfo breeds vaft droves of cattle of all kinds. VII. Weft of the city of Guamanga is the jurifdidlion of Caftio Vineyna. In fome parts this province extends above thirty leagues, and has fuch a variety of temperatures, that it produces every kind of grain and fruits. The heaths, which are the coldeft parts, are frequented by a kind of fheep called Vicunna, whofe wool is the moft confiderable article of its commerce. This animal was alfo common in the provinces of Jouxa, Gua- nuco, and Chuquiabo, till theconqueft of thofe countries, when every one hunted them at pleafure for the fake of their wool, without reltraint from the government, they be- came, as it were, exterminated in thofe parts ; now they are only to be found on the fummits of mountains or the coldeft heaths, where they are not caught without great difficulty VIII. About'twenty leagues fouth of the city of Guamanga, is the jurifdidion of Pa- rina-Cocha, which reaches about twenty-five leagues, and lies principally in fo tem- perate an air, that the foil, befides excellent paftures, abounds in grain and fruits. It has alfo feveral mines both of filver and gold, which now produce more confiderably than heretofore. Thefe valuable metals make the chief branch of its aftive commerce, its paffive being the fame as in the following jurifdidion. IX. Thejurifdiction of Lucanas begins about twenty-five or thirty leagues fouth-weft of Guamanga. Its temperature is cold and moderate. The parts of the fo. ;ner breed large droves of all forts of cattle ; and thofe of the latter are fertile in grain, herbs, and fruits. It alfo abounds in valuable filver mines, in which chiefly the riches of Peru con- fift, and by that means made the center of a very large commerce j great numbers of merchants reforting hither with their goods, and others for puj-chafing fuch pro^ ifions as their own countries do not affiard, for which they give in ex ange ingots anu pinnas of filver. III. Diocefe of the Audience of Lima. — Cufco. Of all the cities in Peru, Cufco is the moft ancient, being of the fame date with the vaft empire of the Yncas. It was founded by the firft Ynca iSIango Capac, as the feat and capital of his empire. Having peopled it with the firft Indians who voluntarily fubmitted to him, he divided it into two parts, which he called High and Low Cufco, the former having been peopled by Indians which the emperor himfelf had aifembled, I and TJLLOa's voyage to south AMEKICA. 615 and the latter by thofe whom his confort Mama-Oello had prevailed upon to leave their wandering manner of" life. The firft forms the north, and the latter the fouth part of the city. The houfes originally w^ere low and fmall like cottages ; but as the empire increafed, they alTumed a new appearance ; fo that when the Spaniards landed in thefe parts, they were aftoniflied at the largenefs and fplendour of the city, efpecially the magnificence of the temple of the fun, the grandeur of the palaces of the Ynca, and the pomp and richnefs becoming the feat of fo vaft an empire. It was in the month of Oelober 1534, when Don Francifco Pizarro entered and took pofleflion of it in the name of Charles V. Emperor and King, of Spain. This was followed by a fiege of the Ynca Mango, who laid great part of it in alhes, but without diflodging the Spaniards. This city ftands in a very uneven fituation on the fides of the mountains, there be- ing no other more convenient near it. On a mountain contiguous to the north part of the city are the ruins of that famous fort built by the Yncas for their defence ; and it appears from thence, that the defign was to inclofe the whole mountain with a prodi- gious wall, of fuch conftruftion as to render the afcent of it abfolutely imprafticable to an enemy, and, at the fame time, eafily to be defended by thofe within ; in order to prevent all approach to the city. This wall was entirely of free-ftone, and ftrongly built, Uke aH the other works of the Yncas, already defcribed, but flill more re- markable for its dimenfions and the largenefs of the flones, which are of diiferent mag- nitudes and figures. Thofe compofing the principal part of the work are of fuch pro- digious dimenfions, that it is difficult to imagine how it was pofTible for the flrength of man, unaflifted by machines, to have brought them hither from the quarries. The interfaces formed by the irregularities of thefe enormous mafTes are filled with fmaller, and fo clofely joined, as not to be perceived without a very narrow infpeftion. One of thefe large Hones is flill lying on the ground, and feems not to have been applied to the ufe intended, and is fuch an enormous mafs, that it is aflonifhing to human reafon to think by what means it could be brought thither. It is called La Canfada, or the Troublefome, alluding probably to the labour of bringing it from the quarry. The internal works of this fortrefs confift of apartments, and two other walls are chiefly in ruins, but the outward wall is Handing. The city of Cufco is nearly equal to that of Lima. The north and weft fides are furrounded by the mountain of the fortrefs, and others called Sanca : on the fouth, it borders on a plain, on which are feveral beautiful walks. Moft of the houfes are of Hone, well contrived and covered with tiles, whofe lively red gives them an elegant ap- pearance, The apartments are very fpacious, and finely decorated, the inhabitants be- ing noted for their elegant tafte. The mouldings of all the doors are gilt, and the other ornaments and furniture anfwerable. The cathedral of Cufco, both with regard to materials, architefture, and difpofition, greatly refembles that of Lima, but is a much fmaller ftrufture. It is built entirely of flone, and the architefture is even thought to exceed it. The facrifty is called Nuef- tra Senora del Triumpo, being the place where the Spaniards defended themfelves from the fury of the Indians, when furrounded by the army of the Ynca Mango ; and, though the whole city was feveral times fet on fire, the flames had no effeft on this part ; which was attributed to the fpecial proteftion of the Holy Virgin. It is ferved by three priefls, one in particular for the Indians of the parilh, and the other two for the Spaniards. Befides this, Cufco alfo contains eight other parifhes ; namely, I. Belin. — II. The church of the general hofpital, which has alfo its priefl and its parifh.— III. Santa Anna.— IV. Santiago.— V. San Bias.— VI. San Chriftoval.— VIL San 6i6 ulloa's voyage to south America. San Sebaftian. — VIII. San Geronymo. And though the firll of the two lafl be a league, and the fecond two leagues from the city, they are reckoned among the num- ber of its parifhes. Here i§ alfo a convent of Dominicans, the principal walls of which were formerly thofe of the temple of the fun, and at prefent the high altar ftands in the very place where once was a golden image of that planet. There is likewife at Cufco a convent of Francifcans, which is the head of that order in this province. The convents of the Auguftines and the fathers of Mercy in this city, are alfo the principal of their refpec- tive orders. The Jefuits have likewife a college here. The convent of St. Juan de Dios and that of the Bethlemites, which are both very large, are hofpitals for the fick ; the latter is particularly appi'opriated to the Indians, who are there ufed witli the great- eft care and tendernefs. The nunneries are thofe of St. Clare, St. Catherine, the bare- footed Carmelites, and a Nazarene fifterhood. The government of this city confifls of a corregidor, placed at the head of the ma- giftrates, who are the chief nobility ; and out of thefe are annually chofen two ordi- nary alcaldes, according to the cuftom of all the cities in South America. The mem- bers of the cathedral chapter befides the bifhop, are five dignitaries, namely, the dean, archdeacon, chanter, reftor, and treafurer ; two canons by competition, a magiftral, and penitentiary ; three canons by pfefentation, and two prebendaries. Here are three colleges ; in the firft, called St. Anthony, a feminary for the fervice of the cathedral. are taught Latin, the fciences, and divinity. The fecond is under the direftion of the Jefuits, where thefe fathers inftrud youths of fortune. The third, called St. Francis de Borja, belongs alfo to the Jefuits, and is appointed for the education of the fons of caciques, or Indian princes. The two former confer all degrees below that of dodor, and have been ereded into univerfities. Among the courts of juftice, is one for the revenue, confifting of two judges. Here is alfo a court of inquifuion, and of the croifade ; together with the fame offices as in the other large cities already defcribed. Formerly this city was very full of Spaniards, and among them many noble families ; but, at prefent, its inhabitants are very much declined. Jurifdidions in the Diocefe of Cufco : I. Cufco. VIII. Canas, and Cances, or Tinta. II. Quifpicanchi. IX. Aymaraes. III. Avancay. X. Chumbi-Vilcas. IV. Paucartambo. XI. Lampa. V. Colcaylares. XII. Carabaya. VI. Chilques, and Mafques. XIII. Afangaro, and Afilo. VII. Cotobamba. XIV. Apolo-Bamba. I. The jurifdidion of Cufco extends two leagues ; the temperature of air is various, but both the heat and cold very fupportable, except in fome parts where the cold is intenfe : thefe, howeverj afff^rd good pafture for all kinds of cattle, whilft the valleys produce plenty of grain and h-uits. II. The jurifdidiion of Qaifpiranchi begins, as it were, at the fouth gates of Cufco, ftretching from eaft to weft about twenty leagues. The Jands belong, in general, to the gentry of Cufco, and produce plenty of wheat, maize, and fruits. Here are alfo manufactories ol bays, and coarfe woollen Huffs. Part of this province borders on the forefts ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. 6lJ forefts inhabited by wild Indians, and produces great quantities of coca, which forms one of the principal branches of its commerce. III. Four leagues north-eaft from the city of Cufco, begins the jurifdidion of Avan- cay, and extends above thirty leagues ; the air differing in temperature according to the fituation of its parts ; but it is in general rather hot than temperate, and, accordingly, many parts of it are taken up with large plantations of canes, which yield a very rich fugar. The lands where the air is more temperate, abound in wheat, maize, and fruits, part of which are fent to the city of Cufco. In this province is the valley Xaquijaguana, corruptly called Xajaguana, where Gonzalo Pizarro was defeated and taken prifoner by Pedro de la Gafco. IV. Paucartambo begins eight leagues eaft of Cufco, and is of a confiderable extent. This province produced, in the time of the Yncas, the greateft quantity of coca, with which it carried on a very profitable commerce ; but is greatly declined fince this fhrub has been planted in other provinces. The foil is equally fertile in other produ£l:s. V. The jurifdiftion of Calcaylares begins four leagues weft of the city of Cufco. The air every where excels that of all other provinces, and accordingly pro.^^ces an exuberance of all kinds of grain and fruits. In the hotteft parts called Lares, were for- merly very large plantations of fugar-canes, but for want of hands to cultivate them, they are at prefent fo diminiihed, that inftead of fixty or eighty thoufand arobas, which they annually produced in the time of their profperiry, they are now reduced to fome- thing lefs than thirty ; but the fugar is of fuch an excellent kind, that without any other preparation than that of the country, it is equal both in colour and hardnefs to the refined fugar of Europe. This diminution of its fugar has greatly leffened the princi- pal branch of its commerce. VI. South-eaft of Cufco, and at the diftance of about feven or eight leagues, begins the jurifdidlion of Chilques and Mafques, extending above thirty leagues in length.' The temperature of the air is proportioned to the fituation of its feveral parts, fome of which are very fertile in grain, and others feed vaft numbers of cows and fheep. But befides thefe its commerce i» greatly augmented by the woollen manufactures of the Indians. VII. South-weft of Cufco, and about twenty leagues diftance, begins the jurifdiclion of Cotabamba, which afterwards extends above thirty leagues between the rivers Avan- cay and Apurimac, in which extent are different temperatures of air. It abounds in all kinds of cattle, and the temperate parts produce plenty of wheat, maize, and fruits. Here are alfo mines -of filver and gold, the richnefs of which formerly rendered this, province very flourilhing ; but, at prefent, their produce is greatly declined. VIII. The jurifdiftion of Canas and Canches or Tinta, begins about fifteen or twenty leagues fouth of Cufco, and extends about twenty leagues in every direftion. The Cor- dillera divides it into two parts ; the higheft called Canas and the loweft Canches. The latter, by reafon of its temperate air, yields all kinds of grains and fruits ; whilft the former affords pafture for very numerous flocks and herds ; and in the meadows between the eminences are fed no lefs than twenty-five or thirty thoufand mules, brought thither from Tucuma to pafture. Here is a very great fair for thefe creatures, to which dealers refort from all parts of the ilocefe. In the part called Canas is the famous filver mine Condonoma. IX. About forty leagues fouth-weft from Cufco is the jurifdiftion of Aymaraes, which extends thirty farther, and like the former has different temperatures of air. The lands abound in fugar, cattle, and grain ; and alfo in mines of gold and filver, which VOL. XIV. 4 K - formerly 6i8 ulloa's voyage to south America. formerly produced large quantities of thofe valuable metals ; but at prefent few of then? are wrought, the country being too thinly inhabited. X. Something more than forty leagues from Cufco, begins the jurifdiftion of Chumbi Vilcas, which in fome parts extends above thirty leagues, has different temperatures of air, great quantities of corn and fruits, and large herds of cattle ; together with fome mines of filver and gold. XI. The jurifdiftion of Lampa begins thirty leagues fouth of Cufco, and is the prin- cipal of all the provinces included under the name of Callao. Its plains are interrupted with fmall hills, but both abound in good pafture ; and accordingly this province is particularly remarkable for its quantity of cattle, with which it carries on a very profit- able trade ; but the air being every where cold, the only fruits of the earth are papas and quincas. Another very confiderable advantage are its filver mines, being very rich, and conflantly worktd. XII. The jurifditlion of Carabaya begins fixty leagues fouth-eaft of Cufco, and extends above fifty leagues. The greatefl part of it is cold, but the valleys lb warm as to produce coca, and abounds in all kinds of fruits, grain, and pulfe, together with fufficient pafturcs for cattle of all kinds. Here are feveral gold mines, and the two famous lavatories, called Lavadei'os de San Juan del Oro, and Pablo Coya ; alfo that of Monte de Ananea, two leagues from the town of Poto, where there is. an office for colle£ting the quintos or fifth, belonging to the king. In this province alfo is a river, which feparates it from the mountains of the wild Indians, and is known to abound fo greatly in gold, that at certain times the caciques fend out a certain number of Indians in companies from the towns in their refpetlive diftrids to the banks of this river, where by wafhing the fands in fmall wells they dig for that purpofe, they foon find a fufficient quantity of gold to pay the royal tribute. This kind of fervice they call chichina. This province has alfo mines of filver, which produces vafl quantities of that metal. In 1713 was difcovered in the mountain of Ucuntaya a vein or flratum nearly of folid filver, which, though foon exhaufled, yielded fome millions, and hopes have been con- ceived fx'om it of meeting with others, whofe riches \^11 be of longer continuance. This jurifdiftion is alfo famous for the gold mine called Aporama, which is very rich, and the metal twenty-three carats fine. XIII. The jurifdiilion of Afangaro and Afilo, which lies about fifty leagues fouth of Cufco, is every where cold, and confequently proper only for breeding cattle, in which, however, it carries on a very profitable trade. In the north-eafl parts which border on thofe of Caravaya, are fome filver mines, but a few of them only are worked. Some of its lands produce plenty of thofe roots and grains which naturally flourilh in a cold air, as papas, quinoas, and canaguas ; of the two laft the natives make chica in the fame manner as it is made with maize. This jurifdiftion belongs to the audience of Charcas. XIV. About fixty leagues from Cufco, on the borders of the Moxos, which are millions of the Jefuits, are others called Apolo-bamba, belonging to the Francifcans. Thefe confift of feven towns of Indians newly converted, and who having received the doctrine of the gofpel, have abandoned the favage manner in which they formerly lived. In order to render the midionaries more refpeded' by the Indians, and at the fame time to defend the latter from the infults of their idolatrous brethren, a major general is polled here, who is both a civil and military officer, adminiftering juflice, and commanding in chief the feveral bodies of militia formed by the inhabitants of thefe towns and villages. I IV. Dio- ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. 619 IV. Diocefe of the Audience of Lima. — Arequipa. The city of Arequipa was founded in 1539 by order of Don Francifco Pizarro, in a place known by the fame name : but this fituation being found very difadvantageous, the inhabitants obtained permiflion to remove it to the valley of Quilca, where it at prefent ftands, about twenty leagues diflant from the fea. The lands in its dependency having been united to the empire of the Yncas by Maita Capac, the goodnefs of the foil and the purity of the air, induced that monarch, for the farther improvement of the country, to draw three thoufand families from fuch adjacent provinces as were lefs fertile, and with thefe to people four or five towns. This city is one of the largeft in all Peru, delightfully fituated in a plain, and the houfes well built of (tone, and vaulted. They are not all of an equal height, though generally lofty, but commodious, finely decorated on the outfide, and neatly furnifhed within. The temperature of the air is remarkably good : and though fometimes a fmall frofh is feen, the cold is never exceffive, nor the heat troublefome ; fo that the fields are always cloathed with verdure and enamelled with flowers, as in a perpetual fpring. The inhabitants enjoy an exemption from many difeafes common to other countries, partly owing to their care in keeping the ftreets clean by means of canals •which extend to a river running near the city ; and by thefe all the filth of the city is fwcpt avifay. But thefe pleafures and advantages are allayed by the dreadful fhocks of earthquakes, to which, in common with all thofe parts of America, it is fo fubjed, that it has been four times by thefe convulfions of nature laid in ruins ; befides other fmall fhocks not attended with fuch terrible confequences. The firfl of thofe was felt in 1582, the fecond on the 24th of February 1 600, which was accompanied with an eruption of a volcano called Guayna-Patina, in the neighbourhood of the city : the third happened in 1604, and the laft in 1725. And though the defolation attending the three lafl was not fo univerfal, yet the public buildings, and the moft {lately houfes, were laid in ruins. The city is very populous, and among its inhabitants many noble families, this being the place where moft of the Spaniards fettled, on account of the goodnefs of the air, and the fertility of the foil ; as alfo for the conveniency of commerce at the port of Aranta, which is only twenty leagues diftant. The civil, political, and military govern- ment of the city is executed by a corregidor, who is placed at the head of the regidores, from which are annually chofen two ordinary alcaldes. The city of Arequipa did belong to the diocefe of Cufco, till the year 1609, when it was erected into a particular bifliopric on the 20th of July. The chapter, befides the bifhop, confifts of the five ufual dignitaries, namely, the dean, archdeacon, chanter, redor, and treafurer : three canons and two prebends. Befides the facrifty, which is ferved by two priefts for the Spaniards, the parifh of Santa Martha is appropriated to all the Indian inhabitants. Here are two Francifcan convents, one of obfervants, and the other of recollefts, both belonging to the province of Cufco ; alfo one of Domi- . nicans, and another of Auguftines, depending on Lima ; and a monaftery of the fathers of Mercy, fubordinate to that of Cufco. Under their refpedive fraternities of Lima here is alfo a college of Jefuits, and a convent and hofpital of St. Juim de Dios. Here is a feminary for the fervice of the cathedral ; and two nunneries ; namely, one of the Carmelites, and the other of St. Catharine. A third is now building for the order of Santa Rofa. There is alfo at Arequipa an office of revenue, under the 4 K 2 diredion 6aO ULLOA S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. direftion of an accomptant and treafurer ; together with commifTaries of the inquifition and croifades, with their fubalterns, as in all the other cities. Jurifdiftions in the Diocefe of Arequipa. I. Arequipa. IV. Caylloma. II. Camana. V, Monquegua. III. Condefuyos de Arequipa. VI. Arica. I. Arequipa comprehends the fuburbs and towns in its neighbourhood, where the climate being the fame as in the city, the country is perpetually covered with flowers, corn, and fruits ; while the excellence of the paflures is fufficiently evident from the numbers of fine cattle fed in them. II. Along the coaft of the South Sea, but at fome diflance from the fliore, is the jurifdiftion of Camana, which is very large, but contains many deferts, efpecially along the coaft. Eaftward it extends to the borders of the Cordillera ; fo that the temperature of fome parts of its jurifdiction is nearly the fame with that of the former, while others are cold ; both producing grain and fruits of a correfponding nature. Its principal trade confifts in affes. It has filver mines near the mountains, but of little advantage, as they are not worked. III. North of Arequipa and thirty leagues diftant from that city, is the jurifdiftion of Condefuyos de Arequipa, extending about thirty leagues, with different temperatures of the air, and confequently produces grains and fruits. Here is bred the wild cochineal, with which the Indians carry on a kind of trade with thofe provinces where the woollen manufaftures flourifli. They firft pulverize the cochineal by grinding, and after mixing four ounces of it with twelve of violet maize, they form it into fquare cakes called mango, each weighing four ounces, and fell it for a dollar per pound. This country abounds in gold and filver mines ; but they are not worked with the care and diligence of former times. IV. At about thirty leagues eaft from the city of Arequipa, begins Caylloma, famous for a mountain of the fame name, and the filver mines it contains. Though thefe mines have been long difcovered and conftantly and induftrioufly worked, their pro- duce is ftill fo inconfiderable, that in the principal village, called by the fame name, there is a governor and office appointed for receiving the king's fifths, and vending the quickfilver ufed in feparating the metal from the ore. The cold in the greateft part of the country is fo intenfe, that the inhabitants are obliged to have recourfe to the neighbouring provinces for the fruits of the earth. Even the declivities of moun- tains and valleys produce but little. In fome parts of this province are wild affes, like thofe already mentioned. V. The jurifdidion of Monquegua lies about forty leagues fouth of the city of Arequipa, and fixteen from the coaft of the South Sea. The principal town, which bears the fame name, is inhabited by Spaniards, and among them feveral noble and opulent families. This jurifdiftion extends at leaft forty leagues in length, and in a happy climate, adorned with large vineyards, from the produce of which great quan- tities of wine and brandy are made ; thefe conftitute its whole commerce, fupplying all the provinces bordering on the Cordilleras as far as Potofi, by land carriage ; while they are exported by fea to Callao, where they are greatly valued. Here are alfo papas and olives. VI. The ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA, 62 1 VI. The laft jurifdiftlon of this diocefe is Arica, which extends along the coaft of the South Sea. Befides the heat, and inclemency of the air, the greateft part of the country is barren, producing only aji, or Guinea-pepper, from which alone it derives a vei7 advantageous trade, as may eafily be imagined from the vaft confumption of it in all thefe parts of America. Accordingly the dealers in this commodity refort thither from the provinces on the other fide of the mountains, and by computation, the annual produce of thefe plantations amounts to no lefs than 600,000 dollars per annum. The pods of this pepper are about a quarter of a yard in length, and when gathered are dried 'in the fun, and packed up in bags or rufhes, each bag containing an aroba, or quarter of a hundred weight ; and thus they are exported to all parts of the kingdom, and ufed as an ingredient in moft of their difhes. Other parts of this jurifdidion are famous for vaft quantities of large and excellent olives, far ex- ceeding the fineft produced in Europe, being nearly as large as a hen's egg. They extract fome oil from their olives, and find a good market for it in the provinces of the Cordillera ; others are pickled, and fome, together with a fmall quantity of oil, ex- ported to Callao. CHAP. XIII. — Of the Audience of Charcas. THE province of Charcas, in the extent of its jurifdidion, is equal to that of Lima ; but with this advantage, that many of its parts are not fo well inhabited, fome being full of vaft deferts and impenetrable forefts ; while others are full of vaft plains, intercepted with the ftupendous heights of the Cordilleras, fo that it is inhabited in thofe parts only which are free from thefe inconveniences. The name of Charcas formerly included many populous provinces of Indians, whom the Ynca Capac Yupanqui fubjedted to his empire ; but he carried his arms no farther than the pro- vinces of Tutyras and Chaqui, where he terminated his conquefts towards Callafuyo. On the death of this monarch, his fon, Ynca Roca, the fixth in the fucceffion of thofe emperors, pufhed his conquefts farther in the fame part, till he became fovereign of all the intermediate nations to the province of Chaquifaca, where was afterwards founded the city of Plata, at prefent the capital of the whole province of Charcas. Its jurifdi6lion begins on the north fide, at Vllcanota, belonging to the province of Lampa in the diocefe of Cufco, and reaches fouthward to Buenos Ayres. Eaftward it extends to Brafil, being terminated by the meridian or demarcation ; and weftward" part of it reaches to the South Sea, particularly at Atacama, the moft northern part of it on this fide. The remainder of Charcas borders on the kingdom of Chili. Thefe vaft tracts of the land give one archbiftiop, and five biihops his fuft'ragans, uamely, The archbiftiop of Plata. Bifhoprics : I. La Pas. IV. Paraguay. II. Santa Cruz de la Sierra. V. Buenos Ayres. III. Tucuman. Archbiftiopric of the Audience of Charcas, or Chuquifaca. — La Plata. The Spaniards having conquered all the provinces between Tumbez and Cufco, and quelled the tumults formed among the conquerors themfelves, turned their thoughts oa ''622 UI.LOA's voyage to south ARrERICA, ■ on reducing the more remote nations. Accordingly in the year 1538, Gonzalo PIzarro, and other commanders, marched from Cufco at the head of a large body of troops, and, advancing as far as Charcas, were oppofed by the nations inhabiting this country, and the Carangues, with fuch vigour, that It was not till after feveral obftlnate battles that they fubmitted. But their refiftance did not equal that made by the Chuqulfacans ; for PIzarro having, after feveral aclions, peneti-ated to their prin- cipal town, they befieged him in it, and the danger was fo great, that without the fpeedy fuccours fent him from Cufco by his brother the Marquis Don Franclfco Pizarro, the few Spaniards who furvlved the former atlions would have been all cut off. But on the arrival of this reinforcement, among which were a great number of voluntQgrs of diftlnftlon, he routed the Indians, who, being no longer able to continue the war, fubmitted, and acloiowledged the fovereignty of the King of Spain. In the following year 1539, PIzarro, convinced of the importance of making a flrong fettle- ment there, commlflioned Captain Pedro Anzures to build a town, which was accord- ingly done on the fite of that of Chuqulfaca, and great numbers of thofe who had ihared In the conqueft, continued there in order to fubdue the other contiguous nations. This town they called Plata, alluding to the filver mines of the mountain of Porco in Its neighbourhood, and from which the Yncas received great quantities of filver, keeping in pay a proper number of Indians for working them ; but the primitive name of Chuqulfaca has prevailed, and Is now commonly ufed. This city flands in a fmall plain environed by eminences which defend it from the winds. The tempe- rature of the air in fummer is very mild ; nor is there any confiderable difference throughout the year ; but In the winter, which here begins In September and continues till March, tempefts of thunder and lightning are very common, and the rains of long continuance ; but all the other parts of the year the atmofphere is bright and ferene. The houfes both In the great fquare and thofe adjoining to It have one ftory befides the ground floor. They are covered with tiles, are very roomy and con- venient, with delightful gardens planted with the fruits of Europe. But water is fo fcarce that they have hardly enough to fupply the necefiary purpofes of life : the little they have being fetched from feveral public fountains difperfed In different parts of the city. The Inhabitants confifl of Indians and Spaniards, and are faid to amount to about i4,coo. The cathedral is large, and divided Into three aifles, of good architedure, and finely adorned with paintings and gildings. The parlfli Is ferved by two priells, one for the Spaniards, and the other for the Indians. Here Is alfo another parlfli called St. Sebaftian, fituated at one end of the city, and Is appropriated to the Indians living within Its precincl, who are thought to be about three thoufand. The convents are thofe of the Franclfcans, Dominicans, Auguftines, the fathers of Mercy, and a college of Jefults ; all fpaclous buildings with fplendid churches. Here is alfo a con- ventual hofpltal of St. Juan de Dios, the expences of which are defrayed by the King ; likewlfe two nunneries, of the order of St. Clare, and of St. Monica. The city of La Plata has alfo an univerfity, dedicated to St. Francis Xavier, the chairs of which are fdled indifferently either by fecular clergy or laymen ; but the reftor is always a Jefuit. Here are alfo two other colleges In which ledurcs of all kinds are read. That of St. John Is under the direction of the Jefults ; while the archbllliop nominates to that of St. Chrlflopher, which Is a femlnary. Two leagues from Plata runs the river Cachlmay along the plains, having on its banks feveral pleafant feats of the inhabitants ; and about fix In the road leading to Potofi, is the river of Philco-mayo, which is paffed over by a large ftone bridge. During; ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. 623 During fome months of the year, this river furnifhes the city of Plata with great plenty of delicious fifh ; among which is one called the Dorado *, which generally weighs between twenty and twenty-five pounds. The other provifions, as bread, flefli, and fruits, are brought from the adjacent provinces. The chief tribunal in Plata is that of the audience, erefted in the year 1559, and whofe prefident has the titles of governor and captain-general of the province, exclufive of the government of Santa Cruz de la Sierra, Tucuman, Paraguay, and Buenos Ayres, which are independent, and in military cafes abfolute. It has alfo a fifcal, a proteftor-fifcal of the Indians, and two fupernumerary auditors. The magiftracy or corporation, as in all other cities of this country, confifts of regi- dores, who are perfons of the firfl diftinftion, with the corregidor at their head, and from them are annually chofen two ordinary alcaldes, for maintaining order and the police. Plata was erected into a bifnopric in 1551, the place having then the title of city ; and in the year 1608, was raifed to a metropolis. Its chapter confifts of a dean, archdeacon, chanter, treafurer, and reftor ; five canons, four prebendaries', and four minor ^prebendaries. The archbifhop and his chancellor conftitute the ecclefiaftical tribunal. Here is alfo a tribunal of croifade, with a commiffary, fubdelegate, and other officers : likewife a court of inquifition fubordinate to that of Lima, and an office for taking care of the effefts of perfons dying inteftate ; all eltabliflied on the fame foun- dation with thofe in other cities already mentioned. The jurifdiftions belonging to the archbifhopric of Plata, are the fourteen fol- lowing : I. The city of Plata, and imperial VIII. Pilaya and Pafpaya. town of Potofi. IX. Cochabamba. II. Tomina. X. Chayantas. III. Porco. XI. Paria. IV. Tarija. XII. Carangas. V. Lipes. XIII. Cuacica. VI. Amparaes. XIV. Atacama. VII. Oruro. I. The jurifdiftion of the city of Plata is of fuch prodigious extent as to include the imperial town of Potofi, which is even the continual refidence of the corregidor. There alfo is eftablilhed the office of revenue, which confifts of an accountant and treafurer, with clerks ; as moft convenient on account of its vicinity to the mines, for taking account of the filver produced by them. The famous mountain of Potofi, at the foot of which, on the fouth fide, ftands the town of the fame name, is known all over the commercial world, as having been greatly enriched by the filver it produces. The difcovery of thefe immenfe mines hap- pened in the year 1545, by an accident feemingly fortuitous. An Indian, by fome called Gualca, and by others Hualpa, purfuing fome wild goats up this mountain, and coming to a part very fteep, he laid hold of a fmall Ihrub in order to climb it with the greater celerity ; but the Ihrub being unable to fupport his weight came up by the roots, and difcovered a mafs of fine filver, and at the fame time he found fome lumps of the fame metal among the clods, which adhered to the roots. This Indian, who * This is a large fpecies of the Dolphin, which, without plenty of good fauce, is very dry eating. A. lived 624 ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. lived at Porco, haftened home with thefe firft fruits of his difcoven', waflied the filvet and made ufe of it, repairing, when his flock was near exhaufted, to this perpetual fund. At length an intimate friend of his, called Guanca, obferving fuch a happy change in his circumftances, was defirous of knowing the caufe, and urged his queflions with a warmth that Gualca was unable to deny. For fome time they retired in concert to the mountain for frelh fupplies of filver, till Gualca, refufmg to difcover his method of purifying the metal, Guanca revealed the whole fecret to his mafter Villarroel, a Spaniard, who lived at Porco. Immediately on this information he went, on the 21ft of April 1545, to view this fortunate breach in the mountain, and the mine was without delay worked, with immenfe advantage. This firft mine was called the Difcoverer, as having been the occafion of difcovering other fources of riches enclofed in the bowels of this mountain ; for in a few days another was found equally rich, and called the Tin-mine ; fince that, another has been difcovered, and diflinguilhed by the name of Rica, as furpafTmg all the reft : and was fucceeded -by the Mendieta. Thefe are the principal mines of Potofi, but there are feveral fmaller, croffing the mountain, on all fides. The fituation of the former of thefe mines is on the north fide of the mountain, their direction being to the fouth, a little inclining to the weft ; and it is the opinion of the moft intelligent miners in this country, that thofe which run in thefe diredlions are the richeft. On a report of thefe important difcoveries, people from all parts retired to Potofi, particularly from the cit)' of Plata, which is fituated about twent}'-five leagues from the mountains ; fo that at prefent, befides its extraordinary riches, ha\ing among its inhabitants many noble families, particularly thofe concerned in the mines, the circuit of the town is near two leagues. The air of the mountain being extremely cold and dry*, renders the adjacent country remarkably barren, producing neither grain, fruits, herbs, or other efculents. The town, however, is fo plentifully pro\-ided as to enjoy an abundance of every kind ; and the trade for provifions is greater here than in any other place, that of Lima alone excepted. Nor will this appear at all ftrange if the great number of people employed in the mines be confidered. Some provinces fend the beft of their grain and fruits ; others their cattle ; others their manufac- tures ; and thofe who trade in European goods refort to Potofi, as to a market where there is a great demand, and no want of filver to give in exchange. Befides this commerce, here are a fet of perfons called Aviadores, who find their account in advancing to the mailers of the mines coined filver to pay their neceffary expences, receiving in exchange filver in ingots and pinnas. Another article of great confequence, is the trade of quickfilver for the ufe of thefe n^ines ; but this branch the crown has referved to itfelf. The vaft confumption of this mineral may in fome meafure be conceived by the great quantity of filver produced by thefe mines ; for before the invention of exiradling the filver with lefs mercurj', a mark of that mineral was confumed in obtaining a mark of fine filver; and often by the ignorance of the workmen, a flill greater quantity ; but the immenfe confumption of quickfilver in the mines of this mountain, and the riches extracled from it, will befl appear from the following accounts of two authors, who were perfectly maflers of the fubjecl. The firfl is that of the Rev. Alonzo Barba, parifh-prieft in the imperial town of Potofi, who, in a piece on metals, publiuied in the year 1637, fays, that from the year 1574, when mercury was firft ufed here in extracting the filver, the royal office of Potofi has received above 204,700 quintals of mercury, exclufive of what had been clandeftinely * The e::tremelt cold in this part feldom freezes the waters thicker than a half crown, 1 2 bought ULLOA*S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. 625 bought by private perfons, and which amounted to no fmall quantity. And as this was coiifumed in the fpace of fixty-three years, the annual amount is about 3,249 quintals. The fecond account is given us hy Don Gafper de Efcalona, who, in his Gazophilacio Perubico, declares, from very good authority, that before the year 1638, it appeared by the public accounts, that the produce of the filver amounted to 395,619,000 dollars, which, in ninety-three years, the time it had then been dif- covered, amounted to 41,255,043 dollars per annum. Hence an idea may be formed of the vaft commerce which has for many years been carried on in this town, and which is ftill like to continue for a long time ; fuch enormous fums being annually bar- tered for goods fent hither, its whole trade confifting in filver extracted from this mountain ; and if fome diminution has been perceived in its produce, it is ftill very confiderable. At a fmall diftance from Potofi, are the hot medicinal baths, called Don Diego, whither, as in other countries, fome refort for health, and others for diverfion. The jurifdiclion of Tomina begins about eighteen leagues fouth-eaft from the city of Plata, and borders eaftward on a nation of wild Indians, called Chiriguanos. The climate is hot, and confequently its products are fuch as are common to hot countries. Some parts have vineyards, and in others are made confiderable quantities of fugar. It abounds alfo in cattle and Iheep. The extent in fome parts is near forty leagues. The vicinity of the Chiriguanos is a continual uneafmefs to the towns in this jurif- dicl:ion, and even to the city of Plata itfelf, they having more than once attempted to furprife it. III. The jurifdidtion of Porco begins at the weft fide of the town of Potofi, and about twenty-five leagues diftance from the city of Plata ; extending about twenty far- ther. The coldnefs of its fituation occafions a fcarcity of grain and fruits ; but, on the other hand, it abounds in fine cattle of all forts. In this jurifdidion is the mountain of Porco, whence it has its name, and from whole mines the Yncas, as I have already obferved, extrafted all the filver for their expences and ornaments ; and accordingly was the firft mine worked by the Spaniards after the conqueft. IV. About thirty leagues fouth of Plata lies the jurifdidion of Tarija, or Chicas, the greateft extent of which is about thirty-five leagues. The temperature of the air is various, being in fome parts hot, and in others cold ; whence it has the advantage of corn, fruits, and cattle. This country every where abounds in mines of gold and filver, and efpecially that part called Chocayas. Between this province and the country inhabited by wild Indians, runs the large river Tipuanys, the fands of which, being mixed with gold, are wafhed like thofe of the river Caravaga, already mentioned. V. In the fame part as the former, but with a fmall inclination towards the fouth- weft, is the jurifdidion of Lipes, and extends alfo thirty-five leagues. The air is extremely cold, fo that grain and fruit thrive very little here, but it abounds in cattle, particularly thofe natural to the country, as the vicuna, alpaca, or taruga, and the llama. It mull:, however, be obferved, that thefe creatures are common to all the other provinces of Punas, that is, to thofe where the heaths and mountains are of fuch a height, as to render the air continually cold. Here are alfo mines of gold, but at prefent forfaken, though the remains of the old works are ftill vifible, particularly in one of the mountains near Colcha, known by the name of Abetanis, which, in the Indian language, fignifies a golden mine. That of St. Chriftopher de Acochala was formerly one of the moft famous in all Peru for the richnefs of its filver mines, the metal being in fome parts cut out with a chiflel, but now very greatly declined ; which may, in a great meafure, be imputed to a want of people for working them : it VOL. xjv. 4 L being 626 ulloa's voyage to south ameuica. being highly probable that the fame vvork would ftill produce nearly an equal quantit}' of that valuable metal. VI. The jurifdiclion of Ainparaes begins at a little diftance to the eaflward of the city of Plata, and is terminated on the eaft by the jurifdiclions belonging to the diocefe of Santa Cruz de la Sierra, particularly on that of Mifquepocona ; and the corregidor of the province of Amparaes has the cognizance of the Indian inhabitants of Plata. Its warm parts abound in grain, particularly barley, which, together with the numerous droves of cattle in the colder parts, conftitute the chief branches of its trade. VII. North-weft of Plata is the province of Oruro, whofe capital San Phelipe de Auftria de Oruro is thirty leagues diftant from it. The greateft part of this jurifdiction is fo cold as to deny it any efculent vegetables ; but on the other hand it feeds nume- rous flocks and herds, befides great numbers of cattle peculiar to the country, as vicunas, guanacos, and llamas. Here are alfo many gold and filver mines ; the former, though known even in the time of the Yncas, have been feldom worked ; but thofe of filver have yielded great riches to the inhabitants of the province. They are now however, according to all appearance, under an irremediable decay, being overflowed, and all the endeavours hitherto ufed, in order to drain them, have proved ineffeftual ; fo that thofe of any confideration at prefent are in the mountains of Popo, about twelve leagues from the town, which is large and very populous from the trade carried on there with the mines. It has a revenue office for colle6ling the fifths belonging to the crown. VIII. The province of Pilaya and Pafpaya, or Cinti, lies fouth of Plata, diflance about forty leagues. The greateft part of its jurifdiction being among the breaches of the mountains, is the better adapted for producing all kinds of grain, pulfe, and fruits j which, with the great quantity of wine made here, enable it to carry on a very lucrative commerce with the other provinces, which are not fo happily fituated. IX. The province of Cochabamba lies fifty leagues fouth-eaft of Plata, and fifty-fix from Potofi. Its capital is one of the moft confiderable cities in Peru, with regard to largenefs, and the number and wealth of its inhabitants. The province in fome direc- tions extends above forty leagues. Befides the fituation of the city in a moft fertile plain, the whole country is fo fertilized by the many rivers and ftreams, which every where traverfe it, that this province is efteemed the granary of the whole archbifhopric, and even of the diocefe De la Paz. The air alfo is in molf parts very mild and pure j and in fome fpots filver mines have been difcovered. X. About fifty leagues north-weft from the city De la Plata, lies the province of Chayanta, extending in fome parts about forty leagues. This country is very famous for its gold and filver mines. The former are indeed at prefent difccntinued, though the ancient fubterraneous pafiages are itill open. This province is watered by the river Grande, in whofe fand confiderable quantities of gold dull, and grains of that metal, are found. The filver-mines are flill worked to great advantage ; but with regard to cattle, this province feeds no more than are barely fufficient for its inhabitants. XI. The contiguous province to that of Chayanta, on the north-weft fide of Plata, and feventy leagues diftant from that city, is that of Paria, the extent of which is about forty leagues. The air here is cold, lb that it produces little grain, which is in fome meafure compenfated by the great plenty of cattle of all kinds ; and the cheefes made here, both from the milk of flieep and cows, are fo highly efteemed, that they are fent into every part of Peru : it has alfo fome filver-mines. The name of this province is derived from a very large lake, being an arm of that prodigious colledfion of waters called Tid-caca, or Chucuito. XII. The ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA, 627 XII. The province of Carangas begins feventy leagues weft from the city of Plata, and extends above fifty leagues. The climate of this jurifdidion is fo cold, that the only efculent vegetables here are the papa, quinoa, and canagua ; but it abounds in cat- tle. Here are a great number of filver-mines conftantly worked ; among which that named Tarco is very remarkable for a fort of ore termed by miners machacado ; the fibres of the filver forming an admirable intertexture with the ftone in which they are contained. Mines of this kind are generally the richeft. Befides this there are others in this jurifdiftion, which, if not richer, are equally remarkable ; and thefe arc found in the barren fandy deferts extending towards the coaft of the South Sea. And here, only by digging in the fands, are found detached lumps of filver, not mixed with any ore or ftone than what adheres in fome parts to the metal. Thefe lumps are called papas, being taken out of the ground, in the fame manner as that root. It is doubtlefs very difficult to account for the formation of thefe mafles of filver in a barren and moveable fand, remote from any ore or mine. Two conjeftures may, however, be offered. The firft by admitting the continual reproduction -of metals, of which there are indeed here fo many evident proofs ; as the matrices of gold and filver, met with in many parts of this kingdom. Nay, the very mines themfelves, after being long forfaken, have again been worked with great advantage ; but the Ikeletons of Indians found in old mines, and covered with fibres of filver, and the inward parts alfo full of the fame metal, feem to put the matter beyond difpute. If this be admitted, it is natural to con- clude, that the primordial matter of filver is firft fluid, and when it has acquired a cer- tain degree of perfeflion, fome parts of it are filtrated through the pores of the fand, ftill ftopping in a place proper for completing the fixation ; they there form a folid con- geries of filver ; and being joined with thofe earthy particles they colleded in theii' courfe to the place where they were abforbed by the pores of the fand, confolidated with the filver. Though this conjecture be not deftitute of probability, yet I am more inclined to embrace the fecond, as it is, in my opinion, more fimple and natural. Subterraneous fires being very common in thefe parts of America, as I have already obferved in fpeak- ing of the earthquakes, their activity is doubtlefs fo ftrong as to melt any metals depo- fited near the places where they begin ; and to communicate to them a heat fufficient for keeping them'a long time in a itate of fufion ; and hence a portion of filver thus melted neceflarily fpreads, and introduces itfelf through the larger pores of the earth, and continues to expand itfelf, till, being beyond the reach of heat, it fixes, and re-af- fumes its former confiftency, together with other heterogeneous fubftances collefted in its paflage. To this hypothefis, two objections may be offered ; one, that the metal in fufion, by changing its fituation, muft be expofed to the cold air, and confequently foon condenfe. The fecond, that the pores of the earth being extremely minute, particularly in a fandy foil, the filver ftiould rather be found in filaments, or fine ramifications, than in large lumps or pieces, as is really the cafe. To both thefe objeftions I fliall endea- vour to give a brief but fatisfactory anfwer. Before the filver begins to run from the place where it was melted, the fubterraneous fire had pervaded the pores of the earth, which by the dilatation of the body of air en- clofed in them, became diftended ; the metal immediately follows, and finding a chan- nel fufficiently capacious for introducing itfelf, farther comprefles the particles of the earth contiguous to thofe it abrades, and, confequently, continues its courfe without obftruction. The fubterraneous fire which preceded the fufion, communicates to the earth a degree of heat fufficient to expel the cold air, fo that the metal runs through it, till by degrees the heat is abated, and the metal becomes fixed. Another circumftance 4 L 2 which 628 ulloa's voyage to south aimerica. which contributes to prolong the heat is, there being often no fpiracle to thefe paflageSy whence the earth through which the metal flows, does foon emit the firfl heat it con- trafted from the fubterraneous fire ; confequently the metal will not be fixed till at a confiderable diftance from the place of liquidation : but the firft particles of the metal being checked by the cold they have gradually contrafted, thofe which follow flow to the fame place, and there form a concreted mafs, or mixed body of filver and fcoria, brought with it from the original mine. It now remains that we examine whether what is aftually obferved in thefe lumps of filver, agrees with what has been advanced, in order to determine whether this opinion have a probable foundation. Thefe papas or lumps of filver are of a different compofition from thofe found in the mines, having all the appearances of melted filver, as any perfon, a ftranger to the man- ner of finding them, would immediately conclude. In them the filver forms a mafs, and the furface is covered over with terrene particles, few or none of which are mixed with the filver ; conformable to what is feen in metals melted, and fufi^ered to cool without feparating the drofs. The terrene particles adhering to the filver are black, and exhibit all the marks of calcination, except that in fome it is fl;ronger than in others ; and as this mult happen if the lumps are formed by the fufion of the metal, it feems natural to conclude that they were really formed in this manner. The fize and figure of thefe lumps are very different ; fome weighing about two marks, and others much more ; for among feveral which I faw at Lima, were two, one weighing fixty, and the other above one hundred and fifty marks, being a Paris foot in length ; thefe indeed were the largeft ever feen here. Thefe lumps of filver are found in different parts of the fame ground, though not often near one another. The metal in its courfe takes various directions, introducing itfelf into thofe places where it finds the leaft refiftance ; and as thefe parts are more or lefs capacious, the magnitude of the papa is greater or fmaller, XIII. About ninety leagues nprth of the city of Plata, but only forty from Paz, lies the province of Ciacica. Its capital, which has the fame name, and all the places fituated to the fouthward of it, belong to the archbifhopric of Plata ; but many of thofe to the northwards of it are in the diocefe of Paz. The countries in this jurif- didlion ej^tend in fome parts above a hundred leagues, and confequently the tempera- ture is various. Some fpots are very hot, and produce an exuberance of coca, which Ihrub alone is the fource of a very confiderable commerce, fupplying all the mine towns from Charcas to Potofi. The leaves of this plant are packed in frails, each of which mull, according to the ordinance, contain eight pounds ; and its current price at Ururo, Potofi, and the other mine towns, is from nine to ten pieces of eight, and fometimes more. The colder parts feed large herds of cattle : together with vicunas, guanacos, and other wild creatures. This province has alfo fome filver-niines, but not fo many, nor fo rich, as the preceding province. XIV. Attacama is the weftern boundary of the audience of Charcas, extending to the South Sea ; and the principal town, called alfo Attacama, is no lefs than one hun- dred and twenty leagues from Plata. Its jurifdidion is of a confiderable extent, and a great part of it very fruitful ; but intermixed with fome deferts particularly towards the fouth, where it divides the kingdoms of Peru and Chili. On the coaft in this province, there is every year a large fifliery of tolo, a fort of fifh common in the South Sea, with which a very great trade is carried on with the inland provinces, it being there the chief food during Lent, and the other days of abftinence. CHAP. ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 629 CHAP. XIV. — Account of the three Diocefes of La Paz, Santa Cruz de la Sierra, and Tucuman ; and of their refpeClive Provinces. THE province in which the prefent city of La Paz is fituated, was formerly known by the name of Chuquiyapu, which, in the idiom of that country, is commonly thought to fignify Chacra, or an inheritance of gold, and is there corruptly called Chuquiabo. Accordingly, Garcelafo pretends that Chuquiyapu fignifies Lanz Capitana, or principal lance ; but this is deriving it from the general language of the Yncas, . and with a difference in the penultima, it not being uncommon for a word nearly alike in found to have a very different fignification in each idiom. This province was firffc con- quered by Mayta-Capac, the fourth Ynca ; and the Spaniards having afterwards taken poffeflion of it, and quelled all difturbances, this city was founded by Pedro de la Gafca, that in the vaft diftance of an hundred and feventy leagues between Arequipa and Plata, there might be a fettlement of Spaniards, for the improvement of commerce, and the fafety and conveniency of the traders. The prefident Gafca committed the care of building it to Alonzo de Mendoza, with orders that it fhould be eredted on a fpot, midway between Cufco and Charcas, which are one hundred and fixty leagues from each otlier ; and that it fliould be called Nueftra Senora de la Paz, in memory of the public tranquillity recently fettled by the defeat and execution of Gonzalo Pizarro, and his adherents. With regard to its fituation, a valley in the country called Las Pacafas, was pitched upon, on the 8th of Oftober 1548, as a place abounding ingrain and cattle, and full of Indians. Along the valley De la Paz, flows a pretty large river, but fometimes greatly in- creafed by torrents from the Cordillera, about twelve leagues diflant from the city ; but from its vicinity, great part of the country is expofed to fo cold an air, as hard frofts, fnow, and hail, are not uncommon ; but the city itfelf is fecured from them by its happy fituation. Other parts are alfo fo well ftieltered, that they produce all the vegetables of a hot climate, as fugar-canes, coca, maize, and the like. In the moun- tainous parts are large woods of valuable timber, but infefted with bears, tigers, and leopards ; they have alfo a few deer : while on the heaths are found guanacos, vicunas, and llamas, with great numbers of cattle of the European fpecies, as will be feen in the account of each refpective province. The city is of a middling fize, and from its fituation among the breaches of the Cordillera, the ground on which it ftands is not only unequal, but alfo furrounded by mountains, without any other profpect than the channel of the river, and the adja- cent mountains. When its river is increafed, either by rains or the melting of the fnow on the mountain, its current forces along huge maffes of rocks, with fome grains of gold, which are found after the flood has fubfided. Hence fome idea may be formed of the riches inclofed in the bowels of thefe mountains ; but a more remarkable demonftration appeared in the year 1730, when an Indian, happening to wafti his feet in the river, difcovered a lump of gold, of fo large a fize, that the Marquis de Caftel- Fuerte gave twelve thoufand pieces of eight for it, and fent it to Spain, as a prefent worthy the curiofity of his fovereign. This city is governed by a corregidor, under whom are regidores, and ordinary alcaldes, as in all other towns. Befides the cathedral, and the parifli church Del Sagrario, where two priefts officiate, here are alfo thofe of St. Barbara, St. Sebafliian, and St. Peter : the religious fraternities of Francifcans, Dominicans, Auguifines, the fathers of Mercy, a college of Jefuits, and a convent and hofpital of St. Juan de Dios ; 1 1 together 630 ulloa's voyage to south ajierica. together with a nunnery of the order of the Conception, and another of Santa Terefa. Here is alio a college of St. Jerom, for the education of youth, whether defiTned for ecdefiaftical or civil employments. In 1608, the church De la Paz was feparated from the diocefe of Chuquifaca, to which it before belonged, and erected into a cathedral. Its chapter, befides the bifhop, confifts of a dean, archdeacon, chanter, four canons, and prebendaries ; but with regard to other circumftances, being the fame with feveral cities already defcribed, I fhall proceed to the provinces in its diocefe. I. Bifhopric of the audience of Charcas. — La Paz. The provinces or jurifdictions in the diocefe of Paz, are the fix following : I. La Paz. IV. Laricaxas. II. Omafuyos. V. Chuciuto. III. Pacages. VI. Paucar-CoUa. I. The jurifdiftion of La Paz is of no great extent, and the city is almoft the onlv place worth notice in it. In the adjacent Cordillera is a mountain of remarkable height, called Illimani, which doubtlefs contains immenfe riches. A crag of it being fome years fince ftruck from it by a flafh of lightning, and falling on a neighbouring mountain, fuch a quantity of gold was found in the fragments, that for fome time that metal was fold at Paz, at eight pieces of eight per ounce. But its fummit being per- petually covered with ice and fnow, no mine has been opened in this mountain. The fame we have already obferved of thofe high mountains in the province of Quito, all attempts having been rendered abortive. II. North-weft, and almoft at the gates of Paz, the jurifdidion of Omafuyos begins, and extends about twenty leagues, being bounded on the weft by the famous lake of Titi-caca, or Chucuito, of which a farther account will be given in the fequel. The air here is fomewhat cold, fo that it produces little grain ; but that deficiency is abundantly compenfated by the great numbers of cattle ; befides an advantageous trade for fifh, carried on in other provinces by the Indians living on the borders of the lake, who are very induftrious in improving that advantage. III. Almoft fouth-weft of Paz, is the jurifdidtion of Pacages, the greateft part of which being in a cold climate produces little grain or fruits : fo that the inhabitants apply themfelves to the breeding of cattle. This province is however very rich in filver mines, though but a fmall part of them are worked ; and it is known from un- doubted figns, that thefe mines were worked in the time of the Yncas. Here are alfo mines of talc, called jafpas blancos de Verenguela. It is of a beautiful white, and, on account of its tranfparency, is tranfported to diiferent parts of Peru, for making panes of windows, both in churches and houfes ; as the ftone called Tecali ferves for the fame ufes in New Spain. In thefe mountains are alfo a great number of mines and gems, particularly one of emeralds, well known in Europe, but for fome latent reafons not worked ; together with quarries of different fpccies of marble. In this province is the famous filver mine called Verenguela : and likewife the mountains of Santa Juana, Tampaya, and others, well known for the immenfe treafures extracted from them. IV. Adjacent to the territories of the jurifdiftion of La Paz, and to the north of that city, is the province of Laricaxas, which extends ope hundred and eighteen leagues from eaft to weft, and about thirty from north to fouth. The temperature of the air is different in difierent parts, and Ibrae of its produds are the fame with thofe of ulloa's voyage to soin'H America. 631 of Carabaya, by which it is terminated to the northward. This whole privince abounds in gold mines, whofe metal is of fo fine a quality, that its ftandard is twenty-three carats, and three grains. In this province is the celebrated mountain of Sunchuli, in which about fifty years fmce was difcovered a gold mine remarkably rich, and of the ftandard above-mentioned ; but when in its higheft profperity, it was unfortunately overflowed ; and notwithltanding prodigious fums were expended in endeavours to drain it, all the labour and expence, from the works being injudicioufly conducted, were thrown away. V. The jurildiftion of Chucuito begins about twenty leagues weft of Paz, and fome part of it bordering on the lake of Titi-caca, that collection of waters is alfo called the lake of Chucuito. The extent of this province from north to fouth is betwixt twenty- fix and twenty-eight leagues. Its temperature is in general cold and very difagreeable, the frofts continuing one half of the year, and the other either fnow or hail is con- tinually falling. Accordingly the only efculent pi:odufl:ions of the vegetable kingdom are the papas and quinoas. The inhabitants have however a very beneficial trade with their cattle, which abound in this jurifdiclion, by faking and drying the flefh. The traders who carry it to the coaft exchange it for brandy and wine ; and thofe who go to Cochabamba carry alfo papas and quinoas, which they barter for meal. All the mountains in this province have their filver-raines, and formerly produced largely, but at prefent are totally abandoned. The territories of the province of Chucuito are on one fide bounded by the lake of Titi-caca, the magnitude of which merits fome account to be given of it. This lake lies between thefe provinces, comprehended under the general name of Calloa, and is of all the known lakes of America, much the largeft. Its figure is fomewhat oval, inclining nearly from north-weft to fouth-eaft its circumference is about eighty leagues, and the water, in fome parts, feventy or eighty fathoms deep. Ten or twelve large rivers, befides a great number of fmaller ftreams, empty themfelves into it. The water of this lake, though neither bitter or brackilh, is turbid, and has in its tafte fomething fo naufeous that it cannot be drank. It abounds with filh, of two oppofite kinds ; one large and palatable, which the Indians call Suchis ; ttie other final!, infipid and bony, termed long fince by the Spaniards Boyas. It has alfo a great number of geefe and other wild fowl, and the ftiores covered with flags and ruflies, the materials of which the bridges are made, and of which an account will be given in the fequel. As the weftern borders of this lake are called Chucuito, fo thofe on the eaft fide are diftinguiflied by the name of Omafcuyo. It contains feveral iflands, among which is one very large, and was anciently one mountain, but fince levelled by order of the Yncas ; it, however, gave to the lake its own name of Titi-caca, which, in the Indian language, fignifies a mountain of lead. In this ifland the fii'ft Ynca Mancho-Capac, the illuftrious founder of the empire of Peru, invented his political fable, that the fun, his father, had placed him, together with his fifter and confort. Mama Oello Huaco, there, enjoining them to draw the neighbouring people from the ignorance, rudenefs, and barbarity in which they lived, and humanize them by cuftoms, laws and religious rites dictated by himfelf; and in return for the benefits refulting from this artful ftratagem, the ifland has, by all the Indians, been confidered as facred ; and the Yncas determining to erefl: on it a temple to the fun, caufed it to be levelled, that the fituation might be more delightful and commodious. This was one of the moft fplendid temples in the whole empire. Befides the plates of gold and filver with which its walls were magnificently adorned, it contained an Jmmenfe colledion of riches, all the inhabitants of provinces which depended on the 4 empire, 6T,t ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. empire, being under an indifpenfable obligation of vifiting it once a year, and oifering fome gift. Accordingly they always brought, in proportion to their zeal or ability, gold, filver, or jewels. This immenfe mafs of riches, the Indians, on feeing the rapacious violence of the Spaniards, are thought to have thrown into the lake ; as it is certainly known, they did with regard to a great part of, thofe at Cufco, among which was the famous golden chain made by order of the Ynca Huayna Capac, to celebrate the feftival of giving name to his eldefl: fon. But thefe valuable eftefts were thrown into another lake, fix leagues fouth of Cufco, in the valley of Orcos ; and though numbers of Spaniards, animated with the flattering hopes of fuch immenfe treafures, made frequent attempts to recover them, the great depth of the water, and the bottom being covered with flime and mud, rendered all their endeavours abortive. For notwithflanding the circuit is not above half a league, yet the depth of water is in mod places not lefs thaii twenty-three or twenty-four fathoms. Towards the fouth part of the lake Titi-caca, the banks approach each other, fo as to form a kind of bay, which terminates in a river called El Defaguadero, or the drain, and afterwards forms the lake of Paria, which has no vifible outlet ; but the many whirlpools fufficiently indicate that the water iiTues by a fubterraneous paflage. Over the river Defaguadero is flill remaining the bridge of rullies, invented by Capac Yupanqui, the fifth Ynca, for tranfporting his army to the other fide, in order to conquer the provinces of Collafuyo. The Defaguadero is here between eighty and a hundred yards in breadth, flowing with a very impetuous current under a fmooth, and, as it were, a fleeping furface. The Yncn, to overcome this difficulty, ordered four very large cables to be made of a kind of grafs which covers the lofty heaths and mountains of that country, and called by the Indians ichu ; and thefe cables were the foundation of the whole flirufture. Two of thefe being laid acrofs the water, fafcines of dry juncia and totora, fpecies of ruflies, were faflened together, and laid acrofs them. On thefe the two other cables were laid, and again covered with the other fafcines fecurely fafliened, but fmaller than the firft, and arranged in fuch a manner as to form a level furface ; and by this means he procured a fafe paflage to his army. This bridge, which is about five yards in breadth, and one and a half above the fur- face of the water, is carefully repaired, or rebuilt every fix months, by the neigh- bouring provinces, in purfuance of a law made by that Ynca, and fince often con- firmed by the Kings of Spain, on account of its prodigious ufe ; it- being the channel of intercourfe between thofe provinces feparated by the Defaguadero. VI. The lafl; jurifdiftion of this biflioprick is that of Paucar-Colla, whofe capital is the town of Puno. Its jurifdiftion fouthward borders on that of Chucuito, and has the fame temperature : confequently is obliged to have recourfe to other provinces for the greateft part of its grain, and efculent vegetables ; but abounds in all kinds of cattle, both of the European and American kinds. The Indians of the town weave bags with their wool, and fell them to great advantage. The mountains in this pro- vince contain feveral filver mines, and among the refl; the famous Laycacota, which formerly belonged to Jofeph Salcedo, and where the metal was often cut out of the mine with a chiflel ; but its prodigious richnels accelerated the death of its owner, foon after which the waters broke into it ; nor has any labour and cxpence been able to drain it, fo that it is at prefent abandoned. Few of the refl; are worked, the general cafe with almofl: all the filver-mines in this audience, efpecially of thofe in the arch- bilhopric of Charcas, and this diocefe of La Paz. II. Biihopric ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. 6^j II. Bifhopric in the Audience of Charcas. — Santa Cruz de la Sierra. The province of Santa Cruz de la Sierra is a government and captain-generalfhip : and though its jurifdiclion is of a large extent, not many Spaniards are found in it, and the few towns are in general miflions comprehended under the common name of Paraguay miflions. The capital of the fame name was erefted into a bifhopric in the year 1605. Its chapter confifts only of a bilhop, dean, and archdeacon, having nei- ther canons, prebendaries, or other dignitaries. The ufual refidence of the bifhop is the city of Mifque Pocona, eighty leagues from Santa Cruz de la Sierra. The jurifdidion of Mafque Pocona reaches above thirty leagues ; and although the city itfelf is very thinly inhabited, there are, in other parts of it, feveral populous towns. The temperature is hot, but not in a degree too great for vineyards. The valley in which the city ftands is about eighty leagues in circumference, and produces all kinds of grain and fruits ; and the woods and uncultivated mountains aiford great quantities of honey and wax, which conftitute a principal branch of its commerce. The miflions belonging to the Jefuits in the parts dependent on this bifhopric, are thofe called Indios Chiquitos, or little Indians, a name given them by the Spaniards, on account of the great fmallnefs of t^^ doors of their houfes. Their country lies between Santa Cruz de la Sierra, and the lake Xarayes, from whence the river Para- guay had its rife, and being increafed by the conflux of others, forms the famous river De la Plata. It was about the clofe of the lafl century, when the fathers firft began their preaching in this nation, and fo great has been their fuccefs, that in the year 1732, they had formed feven towns, each confifting of above fix hundred families ; and were then building others for affembling under the fame laws, the great number of Indians, daily converted. Thefe Indios Chiquitos are well made and adive ; and their courage has often been experienced by the Portuguefe, who ufed to make incur- fions, in order to carry off the inhabitants for flaves : but the valour of thefe people has taught them to defilT: from fuch inhuman attempts, and, for their own fafety, to keep within their limits. The arms of thefe Indians are mufquets, fabres, and poi- foned arrows. Though their language is different from that of the other nations of Paraguay, the fame cufloms nearly obtain here, as among all the other Indians. Bordering on this nation of Chiquitos is another of Pagan Indians, called Chirigua- nos, or Chiriguanaes, who have always refufed to liften to the mifllonaries ; though the fathers flill continue to vifit them at certain times, and preach to them, but prudently take care to be accompanied with feme Chiquitos for their fecurity ; and thus they make now and then a few converts, who are fent to their towns, and there lead a focial life. This generally happens after fome misfortune in the wars continually carried on between them and the Chiquitos ; when, in order the more eafily to obtain a peace, and that the Chiquitos may not abfolutely exterminate them, they fend for mifTionaries ; but foon difmifs them again, pretending that they cannot bear to fee punifhments inflid:ed on perfons merely for deviating from the rules of reafon. This plainly demonftrates, that all they defire or aim at, is an unbounded licentioufnefs of manners. Santa Cruz de la Sierra, the capital of this government, lies eighty or ninety leagues eaft of Plata. It was originally built fomething farther toward the fouth-eafl, near the Cordillera of the Chiriguanos. It was founded in the year 1548, by Captain Nufio de Chaves, who called it Santa Cruz, from a town of that name near Truxillo in Spain, where he was born. But the city having been deftroyed, it was built in the voj.. xrv'. 4 31 place 634 ULLOA*S VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. place where it now ftands. It is neither large nor well built, nor has it any thing an- fwerable to the proniifing title of city. III. Bifhoprick of the Audience of Charcas. — El Tucuman. Tucma, by the Spaniards called Tucuman, lies in the centre of this part of America, beginning fouth of the Plata, beyond the towns of Chicas, which furnifh Indians for the mines in Potofi. On the eafl: it borders on Paraguay and Buenos Ayres ; reaches weftward to the kingdom of Chilio, fouthward to the Pampas or plains belonging to the land of Magellan. This country, though united to the empire of the Yncas,^ was never conquered by them ; having, when Vira Cocha the eighth Ynca had made him- felf fovereign in Charcas, fent a deputation of their chiefs, with a requefl of being admitted among the number of his fubjefts, and that he would be pleafed to fend them governors, that their country might partake of the benelits of thofe wife laws, and ufeful improvements, he had introduced into all the parts of his empire. The Spaniards having penetrated into Peru, and finifhed the conqueft of far the greateft part of that empire, proceeded to that of Tucuiiian in 1549, under the con- duct of Juan Nunez de Prado, whom the prefident Pedro de la Gafca intruded with the conduct of this expedition. He had, inr'eed, no opportunity of difplaying his mi- litary talents ; for the inhabitants, being of a mild and eafy difpofition, readily fubmit- ted J on which, the following four cities were built in that country, namely, Santiago del Eltero, fo called from a river of the fame name on which it was built, and whofe inundations greatly contribute to increafe the fertility of the foil ; it ftands above one hundred and fixty leagues fouth of Plata : San Miguel del Tucuman, twenty-five or thirty leagues weft of the former : Kueftra Senora de Talavera, fomething more than forty leagues north-weil of Santiago. The fourth was called Cordova de la Nueva Andalucia, and is above eighty leagues fouth of Antiago. The territories of this government being of fuch extent, that they reach from north to fouth above two hundred leagues, and Httle fliort of a hundred in fome parts from eaft to weft, it was judged proper to increafe the number of Spanifli fettlements; and, accordingly, orders were given for building two other cities, which are Rioja, about eighty ^leagues fouth-weft of Santiago, and Santa, between fixty and feventy leagues north-weft of the fame city ; together with a village called San Salvador, or Xuxui, about twenty leagues north of Salta. But all thefe places are fmall, and built without either order or fymmetry. The governor, notwithftanding Santiago was the firft, re- lides at Salta ; and even the bifhop and his chapter at Cordova, which is the largeft. The others have their refpeftive corregidors, under whom, alfo, are the Indian villages, within the dependencies of their proper cities. But of thefe there is no great number, the principal part of the country not being inhabitable, either from a want of water, or from their being covered with impenetrable forefts. This want of inhabitants is alfo greatly owing to the cruelties and ravages of the favage Indians, in their frequent in- curfions. The epifcopal church of Tucuman, which, as we have already obferved, is in Cor- dova, was in the year 1570 erefted into a cathedral, and its chapter now confifts of the bifliop, dean, archdeacon, chanter, reflor, and treafurer, who is elected ; but has neither canons nor prebendaries. Thofe parts of the country which are watered by the rivers, are fo remarkably fer- tile in grain and fruits, that they produce fufficient for the common confumption of the inhabitants. The woods abound in wild honey and wax, whilft the hot parts produce 1 2 fugar U^LOA's voyage to south AMEIUCA. 635 fugar and cotton ; the lafl: is manufadlured here, and, with the woollen ftufFs alio wove by the inhabitants, form an ad'/anrageous branch of trade. But its great article con- fifts in the mules bred in the luxuiiant pailures of its valleys. Inconceivable droves of thefe creatures are fent to all parts cf Ptju, the Tucuman mules being famous over ihefe countries, far exceeding all others in ftrength and docility. CHAP. XV. — Account of Paraguay and Buenos Ayra ; the two lajl Governments of the Audience cf Charcas. IV. Bifhopric of the Audience of Charcas. — Paraguay. THE government of Paraguay lies fouth of Santa Cruz de la Sierra, and eafl of Tucuman. Southward it joins to that of Buenos Ayres ; and is terminated eaftward by the captainfliip of St. Vicente in Brazil, whofe capital is the city of St. Pablo. Thefe countries were firfl: diicQvercd by Sebaftian Gaboro, who, coming to the river of Plata in the year 1526, laii'-d up the river Palana in fome fmall bark, and thence entered that of Paraguay. lie was fucceeded in 1536 by Juan de Ayolos, to whom Don Pedro de Mendoza, the fiili: governor of Buenos Ayres, had given a comm.iffion, together with a body of troops, military ftores, and other neceffaries ; and afterwards, by his orders, Juan de Salinas founded the city of Nueftra Senora de la Aflumption, the capital of the province ; but the difcovery of the whole, and, confequently, the conquefl of people who inhabited it, being ftill imperfeft, it was profecuted by Alvar Nunez, furnamed Cabeza de Baca, or Cowhead, whofe eminent fervices, on the death of Don Pedro de Mendoza, procured him the government of Buenos Ayres. The only fettlements in the whole extent of this government, are the city of Affump- tion, Villa Rica, and fome other towns, whofe inhabitants are a mixture of Spaniards, Meftizos, and fome Indians, but the greateft part of the feveral calls. As the city it- felf is but fmall and ii-regular, nothing better can be expefted in Villa Rica, and other towns and villages. Its houfes are indeed intermixed with gardens and plantations, but without any fymmetry. It is the refidence of the governor of the province, who had formerly under his jurifdiftion part of the towns compofmg the miffions of Paraguay j but a few years fmce they were feparated from it, and are now annexed to the govern- ment of Buenos Ayres ; but without any change in the ecclefiaftical government. In the city of Aflumption is a cathedral, whofe chapter confifts of the bilhop, dean, arch- deacon, treafurer, and two canons. The parifhcs of the city of Villa Rica, and of the other towns depending on this government, are ferved by the Francifcans : but in the miflionary tov.ns they are folely under the care of the Jefuits ; and thefe compofing the greater number of towns in this province, I Ihall fpeak particularly of them, ftill keep- ing to that concilenefs I have obferved in the other jurifdidions. The milfions of Paraguay, befides thofe in the province of that name, include alfo a great many of Santa Cruz de la Sierra, Tucuman, and Buenos Ayres. Within a cen- tury and a half, the epocha of their firft eftablifliment, they have been the means of bringing into the bofom of the church many Indian nations, who lived in the blind- nefs of idolatry, and the turpitude of the favage cuftoms tranfmitted to them by their ancellors. The firft inllance of this apoftolic zeal was the fpiritual conquelt of the Guaranies Indians, fome of whom inhabited the banks of the rivers Uruguay and Pa- rana j and others are near a hundred leagues up the countries north-well of the Guayra. 4 M 2 The 636 llloa's vovage to south America. The Portuguefe, then only intent on the improvement of their colonies, in violation of the rnoft facred laws, did not, even after the converfion of thefe people, ceafe from making incurfions, in order to carry oif the young inhabitants as flaves for their planta- tions ; fo that it became abfolutely neceffary, in order to preferve thefe converts, to re- move into Paraguay, about twelve thoufand of all ages, and both fexes ; a like num- ber of emigrants was alfo brought from Tappe and formed into communities, living here in peace and fafety ; and, at the fame time, in a decency becoming their new profeffion. But the number of fucceeding converts was fo great, that continual additions were neceffary to thefe towns, fo that I was at Quito informed by a perfyn of undoubted ve- racity, and thoroughly acquainted with fuch matters, that the number of towns of the Guaranies Indians in the year 1734, amounted to thirty-two, and fuppofed to contain between thirty and forty thoufand families : that from the increafmg profperity of the Chriftian religion, they were then deliberating oa the manner of building three other towns, thefe thirty-two being in the diocefes of Buenos Ayres and Paraguay. Befides the Indios Chiquitos belonging to the diocefe of Santa Cruz de la Sierra, there were at that time feven very populous towns ; and, by reafon of the great refort of converted Indians, preparations were making for building others. The Paraguay miffions arc on all fides terminated by nations of idolatrous Indians ; fome of which, however, live in perfecl harmony with them, but others do all in their power to exterminate them by frequent incurfions ; and it is with the latter that the fathers chiefly employ their zeal, in order to reclaim them from their inhumanity, by preaching to them the glad tidings of the Gofpel. Nor is this fortitude deftitute of fruit, the moft rational receiving with joy the knowledge of the true God, and, quitting their country, are conducted to the Chridian towns, where, after proper inflruftions, they are admitted to baptifni. About a hundred leagues from the miflion is a nation of idolaters, called Guanoas. It is with great difficulty any of thefe are brought to embrace the light of the Gofpel, as they are extremely addicted to a licentious life ; and a great number of Meftizos, and even fome Spaniards, whom crimes have obliged to take fhelter among them, by their ill example harden the Indians in their contempt of inftruftion. Befides they are fo indolent and flothful, that they will not take the pains to cultivate the lands, choof- ing to live by the more expeditious way of hunting ; and, being convinced, that if they embrace the Chriftian religion, and fubmit to the miffionaries, they muft labour, they cannot bear to think of a change which will inevitably deprive them of their favourite indolence. Many, however, of thofe who come to the Chriftian towns to vilit their relations, cannot withftand the order and decency in which they fee them live, ind ac- cordingly embrace the Chriftian religion. It is nearly the fame with the Charuas, a people inhabiting the country between the rivers Parana and Uruguay. Thofe dwelling on the banks of the river Parana, from the town of Corpus upwards, and called Guananas, are more tradable, and their in- duftry in agriculture, and other rural arts, render them more fufceptible of liftening to the preaching of the miiTionaries ; befides, no fuch thing as a fugitive is to be found among them. Near Cordova is another nation of idolaters, called Pampas, who, not- withftanding they frequently come to the city to fell different productions of the earth, are very obftinate in their opinions, and, confequently, are not reclaimed without the greateft difficulty. Thefe four nations of idolatrous Indians live, however, in peace with the Chriftians. In UI.LOA's voyage to south AMERICA. 637 In the neighbourhood of the city of Santa Fe, fituated in the province of Buenos Ayres, are others who rejefl; all terms of peace ; fo that even the villages and eftates near Santiago and Salta, in the government of Tucuman, have felt the eftefts of their daring incurfions. The other nations between thefe and the Chiquitos, and the lake of Xarayes, are little known. Not many years fmce fome Jefuit mifllonaries ventured to vifit their country up the river Pilcomayo, which runs from Potofi to Affumption ; but their territories being very large, and living a vagrant fort of lives, without fixed habitations, the zeal of the good fathers was fruftrated ; as it has indeed on many other occafions, even after repeated trials. The idolatrous Indians, who inhabit the country from the city of Affumption north- ward, are but very few. The miffionaries have been fo fortunate as to meet with fome of thefe in their journeys after them, and prevailed on them to accompany them to the Chrifcian towns, where, without much reluclancy, they have embraced Chriftianity. The Chiriguanos, already mentioned, alfo refide in thefe parts ; but are fo infatuated with the pleafures of a favage life, that they will not hear of living under laws. From what has been faid, it will eafily be conceived that the country occupied by the Paraguay miilions, muft be of a very great extent. The air in general is moifl: and temperate, though in fome parts it is rather cold *. The temperate parts abound with all kinds of provifions. -Cotton contributes confiderably to their riches, growing here in fuch quantities, that every little village gathers of it annually above two thou- fand arobas ; and the induftrious are very ingenious in weaving it into fluffs for ex- portation. A great deal of tobacco is alfo planted here. But thefe articles are far lefs advantageous to the inhabitants than the herb called Paraguay, which alone would be fufficient to form a flourifhing commerce in this province, it being the only one which produces it : and from hence it is fent all over Peru and Chili, where its ufe is univer- lal ; efpecially that kind of it called camini, which is the pure leaf; the other, diftin- guiflied by the name of palos, being lefs fine, and not fo proper for making mate, is not fo valuable. Thefe goods were carried for fale, to the cities of Santa Fe, and Buenos Ayres, where the fathers have factors ; the Indians, particularly the Guaranies, wanting the fagacity and addrefs, fo abfolutely neceffary to procure fiiccefs in commercial affairs. Thefe fadors difpofe of what is configned to them from Paraguay, and lay out the money in fuch European goods as the towns are then in want of, in ornaments for the churches, and the decent fupport of the priefts officiating in them. But the greatefl care is taken in deducting from what each town fends, the amount of the tribute of its Indian inhabitants, which is remitted immediately to the revenue offices, without the leaft deduftion, except the flipends for the priefts, and the penfions allowed the caciques. The other produfts of their lands, together with their cattle, are made ufe of for the fubfiftence of the inhabitants, among whom they are diftributed with fuch regularity and oeconomy, that the excellent police under which thofe people live fo happily, can- not be paffed over in filence, without great injuftice to thefe wife legiflators. Every town of the miffions of Paraguay, like the cities and great towns of the Spa- niards, are under a governor, regidores, and alcaldes. That the important office of a governor may be always filled by a perfon duly qualified, he is chofen by the Indians, with the approbation of the priefts. The alcaldes are annually appointed by the regi- * Wliite frofts are very common here in July and Auguft, fometimes they have ice about the ihicknefs of half a crown. The former phenomenon has been feen as far to the northward as Rio de Janeiro. I dores, 638 ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. dores, and jointly with them, the governor attends to the maintenance of good order and tranquillity among the inhabitants : and that thefe officers, who are feldom perfons of the mofl fliining parts, may not abufe their authority, and either through intereft, or paffion, carry their revenge too far againft other Indians, they are not to proceed to punifhment without previoufly acquainting the prieft with the affair, that he may compare the offence with the fentence. The priefl, on finding the perfon really guilty, delivers him up to be punilhed, which generally confifts in imprifonment for a certain number of days, and fometimes faffing is added to it ; but if the fault be very great, the delinquent is whipt, which is the mofl fevere punifhment ufed among them ; thefe people being never known to commit any crime that merits a greater degree of chaftife- ment ; for immediately on being regiflered as converts, the greateft care has been taken in thefe mifTions, to imprint on the minds of thefe new Chriflians, a deteflation of murder, robbery, and fuch atrocious crimes. The execution of the fentence is pre- ceded by a difcourfe made by the priefl before the delinquent, in which he reprefents to the offender, with the greatell foftnefs and fympathy, the nature of his crime, and ^ts turpitude ; fo that he is brought to acknowledge the juflnefs of the fentence, and to receive it rather as a brotherly correttion than a punifhment ; fo that though nature mufl feel, yet he receives the correftion with the greateft humility and refignation, being confcious that he has brought it upon himfelf. Thus the priefts are in no danger of any malice being harboured againft them ; indeed the love and veneration the Indians pay them, is fo great, that could they be guilty of enjoining an unjuft punifhment, the fuffering party would impute it to his own demerits, being firmly perfuaded that the priefts never do any thing without a fufficient reafon. Every town has a particular armory, in which are kept all the fire-arms, fwords, and weapons ufed by the militia, when they take the field, whether to repel the infults of the Portuguefe, or any heathen Indians inhabiting on their frontiers. And that they may be dexterous in the management of them, they are exercifed on the evening of every holiday, in the market-places of the towns. All perfons capable of bear- ing arms in every town, are divided into companies, and have their proper officers, who owe this diftinftion to their military quaUfications ; their uniform is richly laced with gold and filver, according to their rank, and embroidered with the device of threir towns. In thefe they always appear on holidays, and at the times of exercife. The governor, alcaldes, and regidores, have alfo very magnificent habits of ceremony, which they wear on folemn occafions. No town is v^ithout a fchool for teaching reading, writing, dancing, and mufic ; and in whatever they undertake, th^y generally excel, the inclination and genius of every one being carefully confulted before they are forwarded in any branch of fcience. Thus many attain a very good knowledge of the Latin tongue. In one of the courts of the houle belonging to the prieft of every town, are fhops or work-houfes for painters, fculptors, gilders, filverfmiths, lockfmiths, carpenters, weavers, watchmakers, and all other mechanic arts and trades. Here every one works for the benefit of the whole town, under the infpcftion of the priefts coadjutors : and boys are there alfo inftruiSed in thofe trades and arts to which they have the greateft inclination. The churches are large and well built, and with regard to decorations, not infe- rior to the richeft in Peru. Even the houfes of the Indians are built with that fymmetry and convenience, and fo completely and elegantly furnifhed, as to excel thofe of the Spaniards in mr.ny towns in this part of America. Mofl of them however are only of mud walls, fome of unburnt bricks, and others of flone ; but all in general covered with tiles. Every tiling in thele towns is on fuch good footing, that all private houfes make ULLOA's voyage 1H) sou 111 AMERICA. 639 make gunpowder, that a fufficient quantity of it may not be wanting, either on any exigency, or for fireworks on holidays, and other anniverfary rejoicings which are punttually kept. But the moil fplendid ceremony is on the accefEon of the new monarch to the Spaniih throne, when the governor, alcaldes, regidores, together with all the civil and military officers, appear in new uniforms, and other ornaments, to exprefs the ardent afFedion they bear their new fovereign. Every church has its band of mufic, confifting of a great number both of vocal and inftrumental performers. Divine fervice is celebrated in them with all the pomp and folemnity of cathedrals. The like is obferved in public proceffions, efpecially that on Corpus Chrifli day, at which the governor, alcaldes, and regidores, in their habits of ceremony, and the militia in their uniforms, affift ; the reft of the people carry flam- beaux ; fo that the whole is conducted with an order and reverence fuitable to the occafion. Thefe proceffions are accompanied with fine dancing, but very different from that in the province of Quito, defcribed in the firft part ; and the performers wear par- ticular drelles, extremely rich, and well adapted to the characters reprefented. In fhort, a miffionary town omits no circumftance either of feftivity or devotion, praftifed in opulent cities. Every town has a kind of beaterio, where women of ill fame are placed ; it alfo ferves for the retreat of married women who have no families, during the abfence of their huftands. For the fupport of this houfe, and alfo of orphans and others, who by age or any other circumftance are difabled from earning a livelihood, two days in the week are fet apart ; when the inhabitants of every village are obliged to fow and culti- vate a certain piece of ground, called Labor de la Comunidad, the labour of the com- munity ; and the furplus of the produce is applied to procure furniture and decorations for the church, and to clothe the orphans, the aged, and the difabled perfons. By this benevolent plan all diftrefs is precluded, and the inhabitants provided with every neceffary of life. The royal revenues are punctually paid ; and by the union of the inhabitants, the uninterrupted peace they enjoy, and the wifdom of their policy, which is preferved inviolable ; thefe places, if there are any fuch on earth, are the habitations of true religion and felicity. The Jefuits, who are the priefts of thefe miffions, take upon them the fole care of difpofing of the manufactures and products of the Guaranies Indians, defigned for commerce ; thefe people being naturally carelefs and indolent, and doubtlefs without the diligent infpeftion and pathetic exhortations of the fathers, would be buried in floth and indigence. The cafe is very different in the miffions of the Chiquitos, who are induftrious, careful, and frugal ; and their genius fo happily adapted to commerce, as not to ftand in need of any faftors. The priefts in the villages of this nation are of no expence to the crown, the Indians themfelves rejoicing in maintaining them ; and join in cultivating a plantation filled with all kinds of grain and fruits for the prieft ; the remainder, after this decent fupport, being applied to purchafe ornaments for the churches. That the Indians may never be in any want of neceffaries, it is one part of the minifter's care to have always in readinefs a ftock of different kinds of tools, ftuffs, and other goods ; fo that all who are in want repair to him, bringing by way of ex- change wax, of which there are here great quantities, and other products. And this barter is made with the ftrifteft integrity, that the Indians may have no reafon to com- plain of oppreffion ; and that the high character of the priefts for juftice and fanftity may be ftudioufly preferved. The goods received in exchange are by the priefts fent fo the fuperior of the miffions, who is a different perfon from the fuperior of the Gua- ranies; 640 ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. ranles ; and with the produce, a frelh flock of goods is laid in. The principal inten- tion of this is, thr;, the Indians may have no occafion to leave their own country, in order to be furnifl'ied with neceflaries ; and by this means are kept from the contagion of thofe vices, which they would naturally contract in their intercourfe with the inha- bitants of other countries, where the depravity of human nature is not correded by fuch good examples and laws. If the civil government of thefe towns be fo admirably calculated for happinefs, the ecclefiaftical government is flill more fo. Every town and village has its particular prieft, who, in proportion to its largenefs, has an afliftant or two of the fame order. Thefe priefts, together with fix boys who wait on them, and alfo fmg in the churches, form in every village a kind of fmall college, where the hours are under the fame regulation, and the exercifes fucceed each other with the fame formalities as in the great colleges of cities. The moft laborious part of the duty belonging to the prieft, is to vifit perfonally the chacaras or plantations of the Indians ; and in this they are remarkably fedulous, in order to prevent the ill confequences of that flothful difpo- fition fo natural to the Guaranies ; who, were they not frequently roufed and Simu- lated by the prefence of the prieft, would abandon their work, or, at leaft, perform it in a very fuperficial manner. He alfo attends at the public flaughter-houfe, where every day are killed fome of the cattle ; large herds of which are kept for the public ufe by the Indians. The flefli of thefe beafts is dealt out by the prieft, in lots pro- portionable to the number of perfons each family confifts of; fo that every one has a fufficiency to fupply the calls of nature, but nothing for wafte. He alfo vifits the fick, to fee that they want for nothing, and are attended with that care and tendernefs their ftate requires. Thefe charitable employments take up fo great a part of the day, as often to leave him no time for affifting the father coadjutor in the fervices of the church. One ufeful part of the duty of the latter is to catechize, and explain fome portion of fcripture in the church every day in the week, Thurfdays and Saturdays excepted, for the inftrudtion of the young of both fexes ; and thefe in every town are not lefs than two thoufand. On Sundays all the inhabitants never fail to attend divine fervice. The prieft alfo vifits the fick to confefs them ; and if the cafe requires it, to give them the viaticum ; and to all thefe muft be added, the other indifpenfable duties of a prieft. By the ftriftnefs of the law thefe priefts fliould be nominated by the governor, as vice-patron, and be qualified for their funiElion by the confecration of the bifhop ; but as among the three perfons recommended on fuch occafions to the governor, there will of confequence be one, whofe virtues and talents render him moft fit for the office ; and as no better judges of this can be fuppofed than the provincials of the order, the governor and bifhop have receded from their undoubted rights, and the pro\incials always collate and prefer thofe whofe merits are moft conlpicuous. The miffions of the Guaranies are alfo under one fuperior, who nominates the affiftant priefts of the other towns. His refidence is at Candelaria, which lies in the centre of all the miffions ; but he frequently vifits the other towns, in order to fuperintend their governments ; and at the fame time, concerts mealures that fome of the fathers may be fent among the heathen Indians, to conciliate their affedions, and by degrees work their converfion. In this important office he is aflifted by two vice- fuperiors, one of whom refides at Parana, and the other on the river Uruguay. All thefe miffions, though fo numerous and difperfed, are formed as it were into one college, of which the fuperior may be confidered as the mafter or head ; and every town ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. 64 1 town is like a family governed by a wife and afFeiElIonate parent, in the perfon of the prieft. In the miffions of the Guaranies, the King pays the ftipends of the priefts, which, including that of the affiflant, is three hundred dollars per annum. This fum is lodged in the hands of the fuperior, who every month fupplies them with neceffary food and apparel, and on any extraordinary demand, they apply to him, from whom they are fure of meeting with a gracious reception. The miffions of the Chiquito Indians have a diftindl fuperior ; but with the fame fun£lions as he who prefides over the Guaranies ; and the priefts alfo are on the fame footing, but have lefs anxiety and labour ; the induftry and aftivity of thefe Indians, faving them the trouble of coming among them to exhort them to follow their employ- ments, or of being the ftorekeepers and agents in difpofing of the fruits of their labours ; they themfelves vending them for their own advantage. All thefe Indians are very fubjeft to feveral contagious diftempers ; as the fmalUpox, malignant fevers, and others, to which, on account of the dreadful havock attending them, they give the name of peftilence. And to fuch difeafes it is owing, that thefe fettlements have not increafed in a manner proportional to their numbers, the time fmce their eftablifliment, and the quietnefs and plenty in which thefe people live. The miffionary fathers will not allow any of the inhabitants of Peru, whether Spaniards or others, Meftizos or even Indians, to come within their milTions in Paraguay. Not with a view of concealing their tranfaftions from the world ; or that they are afraid left others ftiould fupplant them of part of the products and manufadlures ; nor for any of thofe caufes, which even with lefs foundation, envy has dared to fuggeft ; but for this reafon, and a very prudent one it is, that their Indians, who being as it" were new-born from favagenefs and brutality, and initiated into morality and religion, may be kept fteady in this ftate of innocence and fimplicity. Thefe Indians are ftrangers to fedition, pride, malice, envy, and other paffions, which are fo fatal to fociety. But were ftrangers admitted to come among them, their bad examples would teach them what at prefent they are happily ignorant of; but fhould modefty, and the attention they pay to the inftrudions of their teachers, be once laid afide, the ftiining advantages of thefe fettlements would foon come to nothing ; and fuch a num- ber of fouls, who now worftiip the true God in the beauty of holinefs, and live in tranquillity and love (of which fuch flender traces are feen among civilized nations), would be again feduced into the paths of diforder and perdition. Thefe Indians live at prefent in an entire aifurance, that whatever their priefts advife them to is good, and whatever they reprehend is bad. But their minds would foon take a different turn, by feeing other people, on whom the doclrine of the gofpel is fo far from having any efFett, that t^heir aftions are abfolutely repugnant to its pre- cepts. At prefent they are firmly perfuaded, that in all bargains, and other tranf- aftions, the greateft candour and probity muft be ufed, without any prevarication or deceit. But it is too evident, that were others admitted among them, whofe lead- ing maxim is to fell as dear, and buy as cheap as they are able, thefe innocent people would foon imbibe the fame praftice, together with a variety of others which feem naturally to flow from it. Tne contamination would foon fpread through every part of their behaviour, fo as never to be reclaimed. I do not here mean to leffen the charaders of thofe Spaniards or inhabitants of other nations, whofe countries are fituated con- veniently for trading with Paraguay, by infmuatii.g that they are univerfally fraudulent and diffolute ; but, on the other hand, among fuh numbers, it would be very ftrange if there was not fome ; and one fmgle perfon of fuch a character would be fufficient to VOL. XIV. 4 N infed 643 ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. infecl a whole country. Aiid who could pretend to fay, that, if free admiflion were allowed to foreigners, there might not come in, among a multitude of virtuous, one of fuch peftilent difpofitions ? Who can fay that he might not be even the very firfl ? Hence it is that the Jefuits have inflexibly adhered to the maxim of not admitting any foreigners among them ; and in this they are certainly juftified by the melancholy example of the other miflions of Peru, whofe decline from their former happinefs and piety is the effedt of an open intercourfe. Though in the feveral parts of Paraguay, where the miflions have been always fettled, there are no mines of gold and filvcr ; feveral are to be found in fome adjacent countries under the dominion of the King of Spain ; but the Portuguefe reap the whole benefit of them : for having encroached as far as the lake Xarayes, near which, about twenty years ago, a rich mine of gold was difcovered, they, without any other right than poflTeffion, turned it to their own ufe ; the minifliry in Spain, in confideration of the har- mony fubfifting between the two nations, and their joint intereft:, forbearing to make ufe of any forcible methods. V. Bifhoprick of the Audience of Charcas. — Buenos Ayres. The ecclefiaflical jurifdiftion of the bifliop of Buenos Ayres extends to all the coun- tries under the temporal government of the fame name ; and this begins on the oriental coafl; of that part of America, and extends wefliward as far as Tucuman ; on the north it terminates on Paraguay, and is bounded towards the fouth by the land of Magellan. Its countries are watered by the great river De la Plata, the difcovery of which was owing to Juan Diasde Solis, who, in 1515-, having failed from Spain with two veflTels to make difcoveries, arrived at the mouth of this river, and took poffeffion of it in the name of the King of Spain. But being unhappily deluded by the figns of joy and friendfhip made by the Indians, he landed, and was immediately killed, together with his few at- tendants. The fame voyage was repeated in 1526, under Sebaftian Cabot, who, enter- ing the river, difcovered an ifland, which he called St. Gabriel ; and advancing further, came to another river, which emptied itfelf into that of La Plata ; to this he gave the name of St. Salvador, caufing his fleet to enter the river, and there difembark their troops. Here he built a fort, and leaving in it a part of his men, he failed above two hundred leagues up the river Parana, difcovering alfo that of Paraguay. Cabot, having purchafed fome ingots of filver from the Indians he met with, and particularly from the Guaranies, who brought the metal from the other parts of Peru, imagined that they had found it in the neighbourhood of the river, and thence called the river Rio de la Plata, or Silver River, which has fuperfeded that of Solis, as it was before called from its firft difcoverer, whofe memory is ftill prelerved by the little river Solis, about feven or eight leagues weft of Maldonado bay. The capital of this government is called Nueftra Senora de Buenos Ayres. It was founded in the year 1535 by Don Pedro de Mendoza, purfuant to his orders, which alfo appointed him governor. He chofe for it a place called Cape Blanco, on the fouth fide of Rio de la Plata, clofe by a fmall river. Its latitude, according to Father Feville, is 34^ 34' 38" S. He gave it the name of Buenos Ayres, on account of the extreme fa- lubrity of the air. The city is built on a large plain, gently rifmg from the little river. It is far from being fmall, having at leaft three thoufand houfes, inhabited by Spaniards and different cafts. Like moft towns fituated on rivers, its breadth is not proportional to its length. The ftrcets are, however, ftraight, and of a proper breadth. The prin- cipal fquare is very large, and built near the little river ; the front anfwering to it being a caltle, where the governor conllantly refides ; and, with the other forts, has a garrifon of a ULLOA's voyage to HOUTM AMERICA. 643 of a thoufand regular troops. The houfes, formerly of mud-walls, thatched with ftraw and very low, are now much improved, fome being of chalk, and others of brick, and having one ftory befides the ground-floor, and mofl of them tiled*. The cathedral is a fpacious and very elegant ftructure, and is the parilh-church for the greatefl part of the inhabitants ; the other, at the farther end of the city, being only for the Indians. The chapter is compofed of the bifliop, dean, archdeacon, and two canons, one by compofi- tion, the other by prefentation. Here are alfo feveral convents, and a royal chapel in the caftle where the governor refides. With regard to the civil and economical govern- ment, and the magiftracy, it will be unneceffary to enter into particulars, they being on the fame footing as thofe of the places already mentioned. The climate here is very little different from that of Spain, and the diflindlions between the feafons are the fame. In winter, indeed, violent tempefts of winds and rain are here very frequent, accompanied with fuch dreadful thunders and lightnings, as fill the in- habitants, though ufed to them, with terror and confternation. In fummer the excef- five heats are mitigated by gentle breezes, which conftantly begin at eight or nine in the morning. The city is furrounded by a fpacious and pleafant country, free from any obflruction to the fight ; and from thefe delightful fields the inhabitants are furniflied with fuch a plenty of cattle, that there is no place in America or Europe where meat is better or cheaper. It is the ufual cuflom to buy the hides of the beaft, the carcafe being in fome meafure a gratuitous addition ; and the meat is always fat and very palatable. The coun- try to the weft, fouth, and north of Buenos Ayres lately abounded fo greatly in cattle and horfes, that the whole coft confifted in taking them ; and even then a horfe was fold for a dollar of that money, and the ufual price of a beaft, chofen out of a herd of two or three hundred, only four rials. At prefent there is no fcarcity, but they keep at a greater diftance, and are more difficult to be catched, by reafon of the prodigious havcck made of them by the Spaniards and Portuguefe, merely for the fake of their hides ; the grand commerce of Buenos Ayres. All kinds of game and fifli are alfo here in the fame plenty, feveral forts of the latter being caught in the river running by it ; but the perexeyes are very remarkable, fome of them being half a yard or more in length. Both the American and European fruits come to full perfeftion, and are in great plenty. In a word, for the enjoyments of life, efpecially with regard to the falubrity of the air, a finer country cannot be imagined. This city is fituated about feventy-feven leagues from Cape Santa Maria, which lies on the north coaft near the entrance of the river De la Plata ; and its little river not having water fufficient for Ihips of burden to come up to Buenos Ayres, they anchor in one of the two bays on the fame coaft. That fartheft to the eaftward is called Maldonado, and is nine leagues from the above cape : the other bay is, from a mountain near it, named Monte Video, and is about twenty leagues from it. Within the government of Buenos Ayres are three other cities, namely, Santa Fe, Las Corientes, and Monte Video. The laft, which was lately built, ftands on the bor- der of the bay, from whence it derives its name. Santa Fe lies about ninety leagues north-weft of Buenos Ayres, between the Rio de la Plata and the Rio Salado, which, after running through the country of Tucuman, joins the former. The city is but fmall, and meanly built, owing in a great meafure to the infults it has frequently fuffered from the heathen Indians, who not long fince pillaged it, maflacring the inhabitants of the city, and thofe of the neighbouring villages ; and they ftill keep the country under con- tinual apprehenfions of another vifit. It is, however, the channel of the commerce be- * Their houfes are commonly thatched with cocoa-nut-leaves and flags. A. 4 N 2 tween 644 ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. tween Paraguay and Buenos Ayres, for the herb camini and palos. The city De las Corientes, fituated on the eaftern banks of the river Dela Plata, betwixt it and the river Parana, is about an hundred leagues north of the city of Santa Fe. Its magnitude and difpofition are both inferior to Santa Fe, and indeed has no marks of a city, except the name. Each of thefe cities has its particular corregidor, as lieutenant of the governor ; and its inhabitants, together with thofe of the .neighbouring country, are formed into a mili'ia, which, on any appearance of an invafion from the Indians, aflemble, and have often {hewn a great deal of refolution in repelling the attacks of their pagan enemies. It has already been obferved, that part of the towns of the miffions of Paraguay be- long to this diocefe, and, with regard to the royal jurifdidion, thefe miflions univerfally depend on Buenos Ayres ; thofe which formerly belonged to the governnicnt of Para- guay having been feparated from it. Having thus, with the government of Buenos Ayres, finifhed my account of evejy thing worthy of notice in the audiences of Lima and Charcas, together with the jurifdiclions included in their diocefes, it now remains only to conclude my defcription of the king- dom of Peru with an account of the kingdom and audience of Chili ; but the many ob- • jecls of importance in it fo well deferve to be fully treated of, that I thought proper to referve them for the following book ; thofe included in this, as I have mentioned in its place, merited a much greater prolixity : for from what has been faid in the firft parj of the province of Quito, fome idea of the difference between the two with regard to th(; number of people, towns and villages, trade and commerce, may be conceived ; the province of Quito having only one diocefe, and part of another ; whereas Lima contains one archbifhopric, and four biflioprics ; and that of Charcas one bifhopric more than that of Lima. In the province of Quito only a few mines are worked, and thofe to little advantage ; whereas the mines of Lima and Charcas, by their immenfe riches, draw thither great numbers of traders and induftrious people, and thus fpread wealth and af- fluence through the whole country, by the brifk circulation of trade. It muft, however, be owned, that the number of people in thefe provinces bear no proportion to their ex- tent ; and it is with too much truth faid, that they are in many places almofl deftitute of people; for fuppofing a corregidor to have twenty villages under his jurifdidlion, yet if the leafl extent of it be thh-ty leagues one way, and fifteen another, they muft be very thin. For draw a parallelogram of that dimenfion, it will contain four hundred and fifty fquare leagues of ground, and confequently the fhare of each village will be twenty-two fquare leagues and a half. This calculation is made from the fmalleft dif- tances, there being jurifdidlions of a far greater extent ; and others, which, though equal in dimenfions, have not twenty villages. What has been faid of the produSs and manufaftures in each jurifdiction muft be underftood in a general fenfe, we not having entered into many particulars made or produced in fome towns, and not -common to others, as may be obferved in the defcription of Quito. But thefe accounts, drawn from our own experience, and the relations of perfons of undoubted veracity, we hope will not prove unacceptable to the reader, who is defirous of forming a true idea of thefe parts, which for their riches, fertility, prodigious extent, and many other particu- lars, merit the greateft attention ; efpecially for the amazing fuccefs which has attended the propagation of the Chriftian reUgion, in countries formerly involved in ignorance and inhumanity.* * It is fiippofcd, that the Kings of Spain and Portugal have five times the number of fubjefts in their American fettlements than in their refpeftive kingdoms. Notwithllanding which, you may travel ia America twenty leagues together, and not fee a hut, except you are in the neighbourhood of the great towQS ; fo great are the trafts of lands pofTefled by each Prince. BOOK ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 645 BOOK VIII. RETURN FROM LIMA TO QUITO ; VOYAGE FROM CALLAO TO GUAYAQUIL, FOR PUTTING THAT CITY IN A POSTURE OF DEFENCE AGAINST THE ATTACK APPREHENDED FROM THE ENGLISH SQUADRON, UNDER COMMODORE ANSON. SECOND VOYAGE TO LIMA, AND FROAI THENCE TO THE ISLAND OF JUAN FERNANDES, AND THE COAST OF CHILI : WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THAT KINGDOM, AND THE ADJACENT SEA, AND RETURN TO THE PORT OF CALtAO. ♦ CHAP. I. — Voyage from Callao to Paha, with nautical Remarks. ' I ''HE time of our flay at Lima and Callao was taken up in the diligent execution of -*" feveral commiffions with which the viceroy had been pleafed to honour us, for putting the coafls and oiher parts of that kingdom in the befl pofture of defence ; that in cafe an Englifli fquadron fliould make an attack *, fo a vigorous refiftance might difcourage any farther attempt of that nature. Having made the neceflary difpofitions to the viceroy's fatisfaflion, and four men of war which had been fent at the beginning of the fummer to cruize off the coaft of Chili, in order to attaclc the Englifh fquadron at their firfl appearance, being returned without the leaft information of any foreign fhips having been feen in thofe feas ; and the feafon of the year now inclining to winter, when every one was of opinion, that it was utterly impradicable for Mr. Anfon and his fhips to get round Cape Horn that year, if (as indeed we concluded) he had not already performed it ; we defired leave, as our longer flay could be of no fervice, to return to Quito, in order to profecute the original defign of our voyage. This leave we, with fome difficulty, obtained ; by reafon of the great want of officers in Peru, and the certain advice the viceroy received, that the Spanifh fquadron, under the command of Don Jofeph Pizarro, had not been able to get round Cape Horn. But at length, convinced that our flay would greatly retard the execution of His Majefty's particular commands, and confident that on any fudden exigency he would find the fame alacrity in us to obey his orders, he was pleafed to grant our requeft, and difmiffed us in the moft polite manner. There happened at this time to be one of the largefl merchant fhips trading in the South Seas, at Callao, jufl ready to fail for Guayaquil, called the Chaldas. On board this fhip we embarked on the 8th of Augufl 1741, and on the 15th of the fame month anchored at Paita : continued our voyage from thence on the i8th, and on the 21ft entered the harbour of Puna. We immediately fet out for Guayaquil, and from thence continued our journey for Quito, which we reached on the 5th of September. The courfe generally fleered from Calloa to Paita, is firfl weft-north-wefl till the fhips are pafl the P'eralones t of the ifland of Guara. From thence north-weft and north- vvefl one quarter northerly, to a latitude a little beyond the outermofl ifland of Lobos, or Wolves. Afterwards they fleer north and north-eafl, till they make the continent within them, and which is continued in fight till they arrive at the port of Paita ; being very careful to keep at a proper diilance from Ogujia, which is very low, and pro- jeding a great diilance into the fea. Accordingly cautious navigators, after palling the iflands of Lobos, fleer a north courfe till they get fight of that of Nonura. * At this time Spain and England were at war. ■)• The Feralones are two old walls on the ifland of Guara, and fervc as light-hoiifcs. 1 1 The 646 CLLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. • The land of this whole coaft is low ; but there are two figns which evidently indi- cate its being near. Firft the fea-wolves, which are feen near thefe iflands, and at three or four leagues diftant from them. The fecond is the great flocks of birds all along this coaft, flying two or three leagues from the fliore, in quelu of food. And though fogs are very frequent here, and fo thick as to hide the land, yet its diftance may be nearly known from thefe figns in the day-time ; but at night more circumfpec- tion is neceflary on account of the extreme lownefs of the Ihore. And though the iflands of Lobos are fomething higher than the coaft, too much caution cannot be ufed in approaching them. It is common in this voyage if the fhip is intended to touch at Paita, and has not had fight or the iflands of Lobos in the day-time, when in their latitude, to lie-to all night. But if they do not propofe to ftop at Paita, proper attention muft be given to the courfe, and the voyage continued. If the fliip be bound to Paita, there is a neceflity for making thefe iflands, or the continent near them to the north, in order to avoid being carried beyond the port by the currents ; as in fuch a cafe a great deal of time would be loft in getting back, both the wind and currents being contrary. From Paita, the coaft is always kept in fight ; but a careful look-out is neceflary in order to difcover the Negrilos, rocky fhoals, projefting four or five leagues diftant from the ftiore, and lying betwixt Paita and Cape Blanco, one of the points of Guayaquil bay. The winds during this whole paflTage are ufually fouth, but in the fummer, that is, from November to May, fometimes veer as far as fouth-eaft. Near the coaft is a periodical morning breeze, or faint eafterly wind, which fhifts round to the fouth-eaft or fouth-fouth-eaft, and in this feafon, at any diftance from the coaft, the fouth vtdnds are alfo faint ; nor are the calms uncommon, though they are of Ihori continuance ; but the brifas never reach fo far : and this renders the voyage from Paita to Callao fo very long in all feafons. For if a fliip ftretches out to a great diftance from the coaft, the winds, even within ten or twelve leagues, fliift from fouth to fouth-weft, but if flie keeps along the ftiore and endeavours to perform her voyage by tacking, flie lofes on one what flie gained on another. Befides, during the winter the currents fet ftrongly towards the north or north-weft, and confequently render the voyage ftill more tedious. In fummer there is here generally no current, or if any do fet to the northward, it is fcarcely perceived ; the direction of the current in that feafon being generally weft. This proceeds from the brifas blowing from the north of the equator, though they are unable to change the fet of the current to the fouth as would be the natural confequence, were it not for the refiftance it meets with from the waters agitated by the fouth winds to the fouthvvard of the equinodial ; but by meeting each other they run towards the weft. There are, however, fome fliort intervals during the fummer, when the currents fuddenly change their direction, and run to the fouth- ward, but at no great diftance from the ftiore ; and in the fame inftantaneous manner fhift about to an oppofite point ; and this is the reafon why moft ftiips coming from Paita to Callao in this feafon keep near the fliore, and work up to windward, hoping, by the favourable change of the currents, to acquire that aiTiftance which the winds deny. At all times this voyage is of a moft difagreeable and fatiguing length ; for though the diftance, according to the latitude of thefe ports, be only one hundred and forty leagues, a fliip is very fortunate to perform it in forty or fifty days ; and if even after fpending that time in continual labour, ftie be not obliged to return again to Paita : fuch accidents being very common ; and it is nothing extraordinary to meet with two or three misfortunes of the fame kind fucceflively, efpecially if the fliips make a great I deal ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. 647 deal of lee-way, when it is often a twelvemonth's tafk. They relate here a ftory to this purpofe, that the mailer of a merchant fhip, who had been lately married at Paita, took his wife on board with him, in order to carry her to Callao. In the velTel fhe was delivered of a fon, and before the fliip reached Callao, the boy could read dif- tinftly. For after turning to windward, two or three months, provifions growing fhort, the mafter put into fome port, where feveral months were fpent in procuring a frefh fupply ; and after another courfe of tacking, the fame ill-fortune ftill purfued him ; and thus four or five years were fpent in tacking and viftualling, to the ruin of the owner, before the fhip reached Callao. This misfortune was in a great meafure owing to the ilI-confl:ru£lion of the" fhip •■, and every other circumftance tending to ob- flruft her pafTage, the tranfaftion has nothing very wonderful in it. * According to obfervations made by Don George Juan at Paita, in the year 1737, its latitude is 5^ 5' fouth. It is a fmall place, having only one llreet, and about one hundred and feventy two houfes ; and thefe only of quinchas and canes covered with leaves ; the only houfe built of ft one being that of the governor. It has a parifh church and a chapel dedicated to Our Lady of Mercy, and ferved by a religious of that order. A little to the fouthward of the town is a mountain, called from its figure Silla de Paita, or the faddle of Paita. The foil round Paita is wholly of fand, and extremely barren ; for befides the total want of rain, it has not a fingle river for the conveyance of water ; fo that it is entirely deftitute of that neceffary fluid, unlefs what is daily brought with great fatigue from Colan, a town on the fame bay, four leagues north of Paita, and near which runs the river Chera, the fame ftream which waters Amotape. The Indians of the town of Colan are under an obligation of daily fending to Paita, one or two baizes loaded with water, which is diftributed among the inha- bitants by ftated proportions. From the fame town Paita has alfo the greateft part of its provifions. The nature of the foil, and the fituation of the place, render it ex- tremely hot. Its inhabitants, who are about thirty-five or forty families, and confifl: of Spaniards, Mulattoes, and Meftizos, live chiefly by paifengers going or returning from Panama to Lima. So that the town owes its whole fupport to the harbour, which, as I have before obferved, is the place where the cargoes of goods fent from Panama are landed, together with thofe coming from Callao to the jurifdiftions of Piura and Loja. In the bay of Paita, and that of Sechura, which lies a little farther to the fouthern, fuch large quantities of tollo are taken as to anfwer the demands of the provinces of the mountains, and part of thofe of Quito and Lima. The feafon for this fifhery begins in October, when great numbers of barks go from Callao, returning when the feafon is over. Fifhing is alfo the conftant employment of the Indians of Colan, Sechura, and the fmall hamlets near the coaft ; thefe feas abounding in feveral kinds of fifh, befides the tollo, all palatable, and fome delicious. CHAP. II. — Account of the Tranfadions at Quito: unhappy Occafion of our fiidden Re- turn to Guayaquil. ON our arrival at Quito, we made it our firft bufinefs to join the French company, who were pleafed to exprefs a great deal of joy at our return. Mr. Godin, during our abfence, had finiflied the aftronomical obfervations to the northward, and though Meffrs. Boyguer and De la Condamine had alfo gone through them, yet they ftill purpofed to repeat them ; for thefe able academicians, who had always fhewn an indefatigable 648 ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. indefatigable zeal for the perfection of the work, were particularly attentive in ob- fer\-ing the greateft obliquit)' of the ecliptic ; at which obfervations we aifo afEfled ; but feveral accidents hindered them from being carried on without interruption. They therefore thought it mofl agreeable to their character, and the commiilion with which they had been honoured, to fpend fome rime in afcertaining this important poirt, than to leave the country before their obfervations were completed. Notwithflanding their flay was attended with fo much inconvenience and fatigue, they could not think of leaving, imdetermined, a difficulty occafioned by a certain morion which they obferved in the flars. In order to afcertain with the greateft accuracy the quantity of the arch, they di\4ded themfelves into two companies, Bouguer being at the head of one, and M. de l^Condamine, accompanied by M. Berguin, at that of the other ; the latter, while the geometrical menfuration was canying on, applied himfelf with indefatigable labour, and admirable fkill, in drawing maps of the countn-, in order to ereci the fignals in the moft advantageous places. He alfo aflSfted both companies in their menfurations of the two bafes, which ferved to prove the accuracy of the ojjerarions. And, laftly, he was prefent at making the aftronomJcal obfer\'ations. But before the repetition was undertaken, M. de la Condamine employed himfelf in erecting two obehfks at the extremities of the bafe of Yaruqui, as monuments of this tranfadHon : this fpot having been the foundation of the whole work. Various were the fentiments with regard to the infcription proper to be engraved _on them ; and indeed the diffi- culties attending this particular, feeminglv of no great imp>ortance, were fuch, as could not be removed till the affair was entirely dropt, on account of other things of real concern, and which would admit of no delay. It was however unanimoufly con- cluded, that the whole affair fhould be referred to His Majefly's pleafure after our arrival in Spain. Accordingly in the year 1 746, the Marqiiis de la Enfenada, equally difunguifhed as a ftatefman, and a patron of real knowledge, being at that time fecretary of flate for the Indies, fent over, in His Majefty's name, the following in- fcription : Philippo V. Hifpaniarum, & Indiarum Rege Catholico, LUDOMCI XV. Regis Chriflianiffimi Poftulatis, Regias Scientianmi Academias Parifienf:s Votis Annuente, ac Favente, LuDov. GoDix, Petrus Bouguer, Car.. ^L^RL4 de la Condamine, Ejufdem Academise Socii, Ipfms ChriftianifEmi Regis Juffu. & Munificenria, Ad Metiendos in yEquinodiaii Plaga Terreftres Gradus, Quo vera Terrae Figiu^ Certius Iimotefceret, In Peru\'iam Miffi ; Simulque Georgics Juan, S. Johanxis Hierofolymitani Ord. Eques, & Antonils de Ulloa, Uterque Navium BelUcarum Vice-pr«efedi, et Mathematicis Difciplinis Jirudid, Catholici ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 649 CathoHci Regis Nutu Auftoritate Impenfa ad ejufdem menfionis Negctium codem allegati Communi Lahore, Induflria, Confenfu in hac Yaruquenfi Planitie diftantiam Horizontalem 6272 4.41 Paris. Hexapedarum, In Linea a Borea Occidentem verfus grad. 19 niin. 25! intra hujus & alterius Obelifcl Axes Excurrentem, Quasque ad Bafim primi Trianguli Latus Eliciendam & Fundamenti Toti Open jacienduni inferviret, ftatuere, Anno Christi MDCCXXXXVI. Menfe Novembri. Cujus Rei Memoriam duabus hinc inde Obelifcorum molibus extrudis Alternum confecrari placuit. " In the reign of His Catholic Majefly, Philip V. King of Spain and the Indies ; agreeable to the requefl: of His Moft Chriftian Majefly Lewis XV. King of France, and in condefcenfion to the defire of the Royal Academy of Sciences at Paris, Lewis Godin, Peter Bouguer, Charles Marie de la Condamine, members of that academy, were, by the command and munificence of the Moft Chriftian King, fent into Peru, to meafure the terreftrial degrees under the equinoflial, in order to obtain a more accurate knowledge of the true figure of the earth. At the fame time, by the command, and at the expence of His Catholic Majefty, were fent, George Juan, knight of the order of St. John of Jerufalem, and Antonio de Ulloa, both lieutenants in the royal navy, and well acquainted with all the branches of the mathematics : during the whole pro- cefs of this menfuration they all equally fliared in the fatigues, hardfliips, and opera- tions ; and with an unanimous confent determined in this plain of Yaruqui a horizontal diftance of 6272 4-41 Paris toifes in a line whofe direftion was north 19° 25' 30" wefterly, and intercepted between the axes of this and the other obelilk, as the bafe or fide of the firft triangle, and a foundation for the whole work. In the month of November 1736. In the memory of which tranfadion an obelifli has been erefted at each extremity of the faid bafe." We had now been three months at Quito, waiting till Mr. Hugot, inftrument- maker to the company, had finilhed fome indifpenfable w-orks in which he was then employed, that he might accompany us to the place where M. Godin, after finifhing the obfervations, had left the inftrument, which required fome repairs in order for our making ufe of it in finifhing our part of the work. But on the 5th of December 1 741, when we were animated with the hopes of concluding our tafk in two or three days, the melancholy news arrived at Quito, that Paita had been pillaged and burnt by a fquadron of men of war, commanded by Commodore Anfon ; and was too foon confirmed in all its circumftances, by letters from the corregidor and other officers of Piura, giving an account that on the 24th of November^ at two in the morning, the Centurion man of war, being the Commodore's fhip, had entered that harbour, and fent her long-boat afhore with forty armed men, under the advantage of the night, whereby the inhabitants and ftrangers who happened to be in the place, were awaked from their fleep by the fhocking furprife of an invafion, the firft notice of which were given by the cries of a negro ; fo that filled with confufion and terror, like perfons unable to recoiled themfelves, moft of them had leaped from their beds, and fied naked from their houfes, without knowing whether their enemies were in pofTef- fion of the town j or whether, by a vigorous refiftance they might not be repelled ; VOL. XIV. 40 the €50 ULLOA S /VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. the mind, on fo great and fudden a perturbation, being but little capable of fuch re- fleftions. Not fo Don Nicholas de Salaza, the accomptant of Piura, who happened to be then at Paita, on fome affairs of his office. This gentleman, attended only by a negro flave, with an equal prefence of mind and refolution, threw himfelf into the little fort, built for the defence of that fmall town, and fired two or three fhot towards the place where he heard the noifc of the oars. Upon this the long-boat flopped ; but the fort was obliged to give over firing for want of hands to affift an officer who had fhewn fo gene- rous an example of refolution. The Englifh, concluding very naturally, that the fort was alfo abandoned, landed about half a league north of the town, to which they imme- diately marched, and finding it forfaken, entered the fort, where, for fear of any furprife, they kept themfelves all night. But the inhabitants thought of nothing but faving their lives, and accordingly fled to a mountain, betwixt the Silla and the town, where they concealed themfelves, except a few flaves, who, finding that the enemy were all retired into the fort, took the advantage of the night, and boldly returned into the town, bring- ing off fuch arms and effects of their mailers as the night would permit, hiding in the fand what they found too heavy to carry up to the top of the mountain. There was unfortunately then at Paita great quantities of meal, fruits, and brandy, configned to the provinces of the mountains, -by the way of Piura ; befides other goods depofited in the warehoufes to be fent to Panama. There was alfo no fmall quantity of gold and filver. As foon as daylight returned, the Englifh left their retreat, and feeing every place forfaken, they began to enter the houfes, which are fo many magazines for goods. It was not long before they met with a quantity of brandy and wine, of which, like men whofe appetites are not to be governed at the fight of plenty after long diflrefs, they made a very licentious ufe, and became fo greatly inebriated, that the mulattoes and negro flaves, feeing their condition, abandoned their fears, and became fo familiar with the Englifh failors, as to drink with them, whilfl others carried off hampers filled with the goods of their mailers, together with confiderable quantities of gold, which they buried in the fand. The long-boat, however, returned on board the Ihip, but her chief fpoiis confifted of provifions ; and the men employed in that fervice regaled them- felves with a degree of intemperance equal to thofe who guarded the fort. The inhabitants of Paita, who flill timoroufly continued on the mountain, though in want of every thing, difpatched an exprefs to Don Juan de Vinatea y Torres, the corre- gidor of Piura, and a native of the Canaries, who, agreeably to his known character of prudence and intrepidity, iinntediately aflembled all the militia of that city and its de- pendencies, and haiiened by forced marches through a troublefome fandy road of four- teen leagues to Paita. The Englifli had been three days mailers of Paita, when difco- vering thefe fuccours, and being informed by the negroes and mulattoes- that the militia of Piura, headed by a famous general, were coming to diflodge them from the town ; enraged at this, but wanting courage to defend what they had gained, or rather fur- prifed, carried off whatever thiy could, and took their leave of the place by ungeneroufly fetting fire to the houfes; an cCtion which could reflect but little honour on the arms of their nation : but was rather a maUcious tranfatlion, to revenge on the poor inhabit- ants the coming of the militia, whom they did not dare to face. Nobody indeed imagined at that time that this proceeding was in confequence of any orders iffued by the commander, and it was afterwards known that he was under great concern for fuch unjuflifiable behaviour. The corregidor of Piura, as he had been very active in the defence of Paita, fo he lofl no time in fending advice of the defccnt to the corregidor of Guayaquil, that he might put ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 6 J I put that city in a pofture of defence ; it being natural to fuppofe, that the Englifh would alfo make an attempt there, as it had always been attacked by every enemy who before infefted thofe feas. Accordingly the inhabitants of Guayaquil were foon in arms, and the bed meafures taken with the utmofl expedition. But the force of the enemy being uncertain, no other fliip having been feen at Paita than that which entered the port, the corregidor and raagiftrates applied for afliftance to the prefident and audience of Quito ; who, among other meafures for fecuring Guayaquil from the rage of the Englifh, required us in His Majefty's name, to repair immediately to that city, and take upon us the command of the troops, all the jurifdiftions having received orders to fend their contingencies ; and to direct the works to be raifed, and the trenches necelfary to be thrown up in the places moft advantageous and moil expofed. As affairs of this nature admit of no delay, we immediately prepared for the journey, and leaving Quito the 1 6th of December, arrived at Guayaquil on the night of the 24th. But the paffage of the mountains was inconceivably fatiguing ; the natural difficulty and badnefs of the roads, it being the beginning of winter, having been greatly increafed by the violent rains. Having gone through all the neceflary operations, and taken the moll proper mea- fures to defeat the attempts of an enemy, and fuch as we had the pleafure of feeing approved by the council of war held in that city, our longer flay only hindered the conclufion of our grand defign, and was of no further ufe here, efpecially as it was then certainly known that the enemy's fquadron had failed for Manta, the coafts of which, though in the jurifdiftion of Guayaquil, are nearly twenty-eight leagues north of that city, and confequently to leeward of it. It was alfo known that the fleet intended to proceed from Manto to Acapulco. Impatient at the lofs of time, we applied to the fame council of war, who were pleafed to grant leave for one of us to return to Quito, in order to complete the obfervations ftill remaining, that on any fubfequent exigency we might be the more difengaged ; but at the fame time thought it neceffary that one of us fhould continue on the fpot to aft on any fudden emergency. The matter was foon agreed on between Don George Juan and myfelf, namely, that he fliould remain as commandant of Guayaquil, while I returned to continue the obfervations at Quito. But before I proceed, it \vill not be amifs to give an account of the tranfaftions of the enemy's fquadron in thofe feas, according to the depofitions of fome prifoners whom they fet afliore at Manta. This fquadron, at its entrance into the South Sea, befides being difperfed, was in a very fhattered condition ; but arrived fucceflively at the ifland of Juan Fernandes, to the number of four fhips, from fifty to fixty guns, the Centurion and the Gloucefter, a fri- gate between thirty-fix and forty guns, and a viftualler. Thefe fhips came to an anchor clofe to the fhore, their crews being very much diminilhed, and thofe which remained very fickly< Tents were pitched, a kind of village built with an hofpital for the recovery of their men. They arrived at this ifland in the month of June, and the commander was fo quick in his profecution of hoflilities, that as foon as a number of failors fufficient to man the frigate were recovered, flie was fent out on a cruize ; and this being in the common track of fhips bound from Callao to the coafl; of Chili, they had the good fortune to take two or three, all of them richly laden, particularly the Aranzaza, one of the largefl: employed in thofe feas. Great numbers of men died on the ifland of Juati Fernandes, but on the recovery of the remainder, and the fhips being careened, they funk the victualler, and fome time after the frigate, putting the guns and provifions on board the Aranzaza. After this the whole fquadron put to fea upon frefh enterprifes, and about eight or nine veflTels fell into their hands ; and between 402 Paita 653 ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. Paita and the ifland of Lobos, they took a coaft fliip of great value. The facking of Paita was the laft aft of hoftility they committed in thefe parts ; for the Englifh com- modore having procured intelligence of the ftiort time requifite to alarm Guayaquil, and finding that there had been abundantly more than fufficient, prudently abandoned a de- fign, againft which he judged infuperable precautions had been taken ; and indeed had he made an attempt, in all probability thofe fpirits would have been depreffed, which were fo greatly elevated at their fuccefs in Paita. After leaving Paita they fleered for the coaft of Manta, where they put the prifoners they had taken in the merchant fhips on board a long-boat, to make the beft of their way to the land ; the (hip, keeping ten or twelve leagues from the fliore ; but many of the failors, negroes, and mulattoes, who had nothing to lofe, voluntarily entered with them. They now determined to fail for the Philippines, in order to intercept the gal- leon in her return to thofe iflands, and which was to fail from Acapulco fome time in January. This was doubtlefs the moft advantageous fcheme that could be formed in their circumftances. But in this they were difappointed by tlie viceroy of Mexico; who, from the intelligence fent by the viceroy of Peru to all the ports on the coaft of the South Sea, as well as by expreffes difpatched from Guayaquil and Atacames to Pa- nama, deferred fending the fhip that year ; which the enemy being apprifed of, they burnt the Aranzaza, as they had before the other prizes, and continued their voyage towards the Philippines, where by a long perfeverance in a molt tedious cruize they accomplifhed their defign. For the Acapulco ftiip returning when all the danger was imagined to be over, fell in with the Centurion, and after a fhort, though fmart engage- ment, was taken. But, to re-aflume the thread of the narrative, to which I hope this has been no dif- agreeable interruption. On the fifth of January 1742, I fet out from Guayaquil for Quito, being the very worft time of the year for performing that journey ; and, as fuch, I experienced it by feveral misfortunes. In one of the rivers we were obliged to ford, the two mules which firft entered were fwept away by the current, and that which carried my portmanteau was loft ; and the other, on which an Indian rode and led the former, fwam with great difficulty to the fliore, and the Indian faved himfelf by hold- ing faft by the creature's tail ; in which manner they were carried near a quarter of a league below the ford. If the travelling up the mountains was not attended with fuch imminent dangei-, it was extremely troublefome, a fpace of about half a league having taken me up from feven in the morning till feven in the afternoon, the mules, though light, falling at every ftep, nor was it an eafy matter to make them rife ; and foon after the creatures became fo fatigued, they even funk under their own weight. At length I reached Quito on the nineteenth of the fame month ; but had hardly alighted from the mules with the hopes of refting myfelf after thefe dangers and fatigues, when the prefident informed me, that three days before he had fent away an exprefs, with letters from the viceroy, directing us to haften to Lima with all poffible expedition ; and charging him in particular to provide immediately every thing neceflary that our journey might not be a moment delayed. It was therefore no time to think of reft ; and, ac- cordingly, after making fuch provifions as were abfolutely neceflary, I fet out on the 22d of the fame month, and a third time croffed that difficult mountain in my way to Guayaquil, where, having joined Don George Juan, who was included in the orders, we travelled night and day, with a difpatch anfwerable to the governor's impatience, all the towns on the road having received orders to keep beafts in readinefs, that we might not be detained a moment ; and accordingly we reached Lima the 26th of Feb- ruary. In the meantime, the viceroy had ordered a fquadron of four men of war to ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 653 to fail from Callao to Panama, for the defence of that place, which touched at Paita, in order to gain intelligence of the enemy's fhips, having orders to attack them if pof- fible ; but, as we have already obferved, they were failed to the coaft of Acapulco. On our arrival, the viceroy was pleafed to exprefs great fatisfadtion at our difpatch, and to honour us with feveral commiffions fuitable to the exigence of affairs ; giving us the command ot two frigates which he had ordered to be fitted out for the fecurity of the coafl of Chili, and the ifland of Juan Fernandes, againfl any reinforcement coming to the enemy. For though Commodore Anfon had made no fecret of his intentions to the prifoners, and they had eagerly publifhed them, no dependance could be had on informations given out by the enemy himfelf, and which were the more fufpicious as he told them openly. Befides, it was well known, that this fquadron originally confided of more fliips ; and we were apprehenfive, that though the remainder had failed of reaching thefe feas, yet by perfeverance, and a fecond effort, they might fucceed. Commodore Don Jofeph Pizarro had alfo been difappointed in getting into thefe feas this year, though he had attempted it in a fingle fhip called the Afia ; but was obliged to put back to Buenos Ayres with the lofs of one of his mails, and another was carried away juft at the mouth of the Rio de la Plata. Thefe difappointments rendered it the more neceffary for the viceroy to provide for the defence of the coafi: of Chili, as all fliips muft pais near it in their courfe to Peru. CHAP. III. — Voyage to the IJlatid of Juan Fernandes ; with an Account of the Seas and Winds in that Parage. AMONG other precautions taken by the vigilant viceroy of Lima for the defence of the South Sea, he fitted out, as we have jull mentioned, two frigates for cruizing on the coaft of Chili ; and gave the conimand of one, called Nueftra Senora de Belen, to Don George Juan, and appointed me for the other, called the Rofa : they had been both merchant Ihips employed in thefe feas, all the King's fliips being fent in the Panama fquadron. They were between fix and feven hundred tons : each carried thirty guns on one deck, and three hundred and fifty men, all picked and expert failors. The fhips were alfo prime failors : fo that our force was, in all refpefts, futficient for the fervice on which it was employed ; and, with the affiftance of Providence, would doubtlefs have anfwered the viceroy's expetftations. On the fourth of December 1742 we got under fail, intending to fteer firft to the ifland of Juan Fernandes. Our courfe was from fouth-weft one quarter wefterly, to fouth one quarter wefterly, according as the winds permitted, which were continually between the eaft-fouth-ealf and fouth-fouth-eaft, but not always of the fame ftrenglh ; fometimes fliort calms intervened, and, at others, fudden fqualls, but did us no great damage. This courfe was continued till the 27th of the fame month, when, be- ing in the latitude of 30", and a little more than 15*^ weft of Callao harbour, and the wind at north-weft, we altered our courfe, fteering eaft-fouth-eaft, and eaft, till we made the ifland without that of Juan Fernandes. This happened on the 7th of January 1 743, at three in the evening ; the fouth point of the ifland bearing north-eaft, one quarter eafterly, and the north-weft point north-eaft. We now continued fteering eaft, one quarter northerly, and the next day, at eleven in the morning, we had fight of the other ifland, called De Tierra, bearing eaft-north-eaft. And in the following night, having weathered the north point, we the next day came to an anchor in the bay. During 654 ULLOa's X'OYAGE to south AMERICA. During our paffage from Callao to the tropic, we had light winds, often interrupted with fhort calms ; but after we had crofled the tropic, they were more fettled, ftronger, and fqually, but not dangerous, being of fliort continuance. But, as I have already noticed in another part, they always blow from the fouth-eaft and never from the fouth- weft, till you are fifteen or twenty degrees weft of the meridian of Callao. When we concluded ourfelves in the proper latitude for ftanding towards the iflands, and found the wind at north-weft, we fteered eaft, in order to reach the meridian of Juan Fer- nandes. The wmd then (hifted round from weft-north-weft to weft-fouth-weft and fouth, and afterwards returned to its ufual rhumbs of fouth-eaft, fouth-fouth-eaft, and fouth-eaft, one quarter eafterly. On the 27th of December, the wind again veered to the north-weft, and continued fo the whole day ; the two fucceeding days at north- north-weft and north-weft, but on the 30th veered to the weft-north- weft. On the 31ft it ftiifted to the fouth-fouth-weft, and on the ift of January veered round to the fouth, fouth-fouth-eaft, and fouth-eaft. Thofe, therefore, who endeavour to gain fuch winds, ftand off" from the coaft till they fall in with them ; and this fometimes happens at a greater diftance than at others ; I mean during the fummer ; for in winter a differ- ent courfe is necelfary, as we ftiall explain in the fequel. The atmpfphere of thefe feas is generally filled with thick vapours to a confiderable height : fo that often for four or five days fucceflively, there is no poflibiHty of obferv- ing the latitude. Thefe fogs the failors call Sures Pardos, and are fond of them, as they are a fure fign that the wind will be frefti and conftant, and that they fliall not be troubled with calms. At this time it is very common to fee the horizon filled with a dark cloud, but of no dangerous confequence, except frefliening the wind a little more than ufual, and a ftiort ftiower of rain ; the weather, in four or five minutes, becoming as fair as before. The fame thing prefages the turbonada, or fliort hurricane ; for the cloud is no fooner formed on the horizon, than it begins, according to the failor's ' phrafe, " to open its eye," i. e. the cloud breaks, and the part of the horizon where it was formed becomes clear. Thefe turbonadas are moft common after you are pafled the 17th or i8th of latitude. Near the tropic, that is, between the parallels of fourteen or fixteen and twenty-eight de- grees, calms greatly prevail during the months of January, February, and even March ; and in fome years more than others; bui; near the coaft they are not fo common, on account of the land breezes, which are always between the fouth-eaft and eaft-fouth-eaft. Formerly, and even till within thefe few years, the voyage to and from Callao to Chili, was rarely per- formed in lefs than a twelvemonth ; owing to a fear of ftanding oft" to a great diftance from the coaft ; for by tacking along the fliore they made but little way, and, confequently, laid the fliips under a neceflity of putting into the intermediate harbours for water and provifions ; but an European pilot making his firft voyage in the ufual manner, obferved that the courfe of the currents was from the weft and fouth-weft, whence he concluded that winds from thofe quarters might be found farther oft' at fea. Accordingly, in his voyage, he ftood oft" to a great diftance, in order to fall in with thofe winds, and had the fatisfaftion to find that he was not miftaken ; fo that he reached Chili in little more than thirty days. This being fo far fliort of the ufual term, he was fufpefted of forcery, and ever after called Brujo, a forcerer. From this report, and the evidence of the dates of his papers, perfons of all ranks were perfuaded that he failed by magic, and the Inquifition caufed him to be apprehended ; but, on examining his journals, they ap- plauded his fagacity, and were convinced, that if others did not perform the fame voy- age with equal difpatch, it was owing to their timidity in not ftretching oiF to a proper 2 diftance ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. 6§S diftance from the coaft as he had done. And thus he had the honour of leading the way in that expeditious courfe, which has ever fince been followed. In all this paffage you have an eafy fea, the fwell coining fometimes from the fouth- eaft, fouth or eafl; being the points from whence the wind blows ; at others, from the fouth-weft and weft, particularly after you are ten or twelve degrees from the coall. And it is only near the ifland of Juan Fernandes that you meet with a hollow fea. The courfe of the waves is there fufficiently manifeft ; for, on quitting the coaft of Callao to about fixty degrees farther to the fouth, their courfe is to the northwards : but from between the parallels of fixteen and twenty degrees, their courfe is imperceptible ; while in higher latitudes they run with fome force fouth and fouth-weft, and with a greater velocity in winter than in fummer ; as I know from my own experience, hav- ing, in my fecond voyage t6 Chili, in the year 1744, at the end of Oclober, and be- ginning of November, taken the greateft care, that the diftances between the knots on the log line fhould be forty-feven Paris feet and a half, for meafuring the fliip's way ; but every day found, that the obferved latitude exceeded the latitude by account ten or fifteen minutes. The fame obfervation was made by Don George Juan, in both his voyages ; as well as by the captain and officers of the French fhip, in which I return- ed : fo that the reality of the courfe of the fea is proved beyond exception ; and, in this manner, it continues to the 38th or 40th degree of latitude. In the latitude of 34° 30' and 4- 10' weft of Callao, you meet with a track of green water, extending north and fouth, and along which you fail above thirty leagues. Probably it runs to a great diftance in that fea, being found in every latitude to the coaft: of Guatemala ; but not always under the fame meridian, winding away north-weft. It is alfo met with in a higher latitude than that of Juan Fernandes ; and it has alfo been obferved by ihips in their courfe to Chiloe, or Baldivia. In this paifage, though part of it be at fuch a great diftance from the land, we meet with a kind of birds called Pardelas, which diftinguifh themfelves from all other fpecies, by venturing fo far from the land. They are fomething larger than a pigeon ; their bodies long ; their necks fhort ; their tails of a proper proportion, and their wings long and flender. There are two forts of thefe birds, and of different colours, one parda or brown, from whence they derive their name ; the other black, and called Pardela Gal- linera, but in other circumftances they are entirely the fame. A fmaller bird is alfo feen in thefe feas, called Alma de Maeftre ; it is white fpotted with black, and has a long tail ; but it is not fo common as the Pardelas : they are moft frequent in ftormy weather. Within ten leagues of the iflands of Juan Fernandes are feen fome balenatos, or fmall whales ; and at near the fame diftance, fea-wolves ; but the latter feldom go from the fhore. Though this fea has not been improperly dignified with the appellation of Pacific, with regard to the interval between the tropics ; yet that particular cannot with any juftice be applied to it, if confidered in its whole extent ; tempeftuous weather being equally common in the latitudes of twenty and twenty-three degrees in the South Sea, as in the oceans of Europe ; and in higher latitudes ftorms are more frequent and vio- lent. I am inclined to think that the firft Spaniards gave it the nam.e of the Pacific Sea, from their being greatly pleafed with its fmoothnefs, and the gentlepeli of the winds in their firft voyages, concluding that it was fo in every part ; but the fury of the winter ftorms, and the roughnefs of the fea, which are equal to thofe in anv other parts, abundantly demonftrate that they formed a judgment too haftily. Along thefe coafts and the adjacent fea, the winter begins at the fame time as at Lima ; that is, in the month of June iafting till October and November ; but its greateft violence 6$6 ulloa's voyage to south America. violence is pafl: in Auguft or September. During the whole winter feafon there is no dependance QXi being fate from dorms, which rife with a fudden rapidity ; and in all latitudes beyond forty degrees, the winter fets in confiderably fooner, even at the beginning of April, and is alfo obferved to laft longer. The winter in all latitudes beyond twenty degrees is ufliered in by northerly winds. They are not indeed fixed like thofe of the fouth, though common to the feafon. They always blow with great violence, but not always with the fame degree, being lefs ftrong in the beginning than in the depth of winter, when their rage ftrikes the molt refolute with horror, and raifes fuch enormous waves, that the atmofphere is crouded with vapours , and thefe turn to a drizzling rain, which lafts as long as the ftorm continues. It often happens that thefe violent north winds, without the leaft fign of an approaching change, Ihift round inftantly to the welt, which change is called the travefia, but conti- nue to blow with the fame force. Sometimes indeed this fudden change is indicated by the horizon clearing up a little in that quarter ; but in feven or eight minutes after the appearance of this fmall gleam of light, a fecond ftorm comes on ; fo that when a fhip is labouring againfl the violence of a ftorm from the north, the greateft care muft be taken, on the leaft appearance, to prepare for the travefia ; indeed its rapidity is often fuch as not to allow time fufficient for making the neceflary preparations, and the dan- ger is fufficiently evident if the Ihip has her fails fet, or is lying-to. In the month of April 1743, in the latitude of forty degrees, I had the misfortune of experiencing the fury of a ftorm at north, which laftcd in its full violence from the 29th of March till the 4th of April. Twice the wind fliifted to the travefia, and veer- ing round to the fouthward, returned in a few hours to the north. The firft time it {hifted to the weft, the fliip, by the vortices formed in the fea by this fudden oppofition to the courfe of its waves, was fo covered with water from head to (tern, that the officers who were on the watch concluded fhe had foundered ; but fortunately we had our larboard tacks on board, and by a fmall motion of the helm, the Ihip followed the change of the wind, and brought-to without receiving any damage ; wliereas we ftiould otherwife in all probability have been loft. Another circumftance in our favour was, that the wind was feme points to the weftward of the north. For though thefe winds are here called nortes, they are generally between the north and north-weit, and during their feafon, veering in fmall fqualls to the north, and in others to the north-weft. Sudden calms alfo often intervene ; but if thefe happen before the wind has palled the travefia, it returns in about half, or at leaft an hour with redoubled fury. Thefe dan- gerous variations are however indicated by the thickncfs of the atmofphere, and the denfe clouds in the horizon. The duration of thefe itorms is far from being fixed or regular, though I well know fome pilots here will have it, that the north wind blows twenty-four hours, and then pafl'es to the travefia ; that it continues there with equal violence three or four hours, accompanied with ftiowers, which abate its firft violence ; and that it then veers round till it comes to the fouth-weft, when fair weather fuccecds. I own indeed that I have in feveral voyages found this to be true ; but at other times I experienced, that the fucceffive changes of the wind are very diflerent. The ftorm at north I before mentioned, began March the 29th, at one in the atternoon, and lafted till the 31ft at ten at night, which made fifty-feven hours; then the wind Ihifted to the travefia, where it continued till the ift of April without any abatement, that is, during the fpace of twenty-two hours. From the weft, the wind veered round to the weft-fouth-weft and fouth-weft, ftill blowing with its former violence. Hence a ftiort calm fuccecded ; after which, it a fecond time fhifted to the north, where it continued blowing with its former fury fifteen or twenty hours ; then came on a fecond travefia ; 1 2 and ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 657 and foon after its violence abated, and the next night fhifted from fouth-wefl: to fouth- eaft. Thus the whole continuance of the ftorm was four natural days and nine hours ; and I have fince met with others of the fame violence and duration, as i Ihall mention in their proper place. What I would infer from my own experience, confirmed by- the information of feveral pilots, is, that the duration of thefe fLorms is proportional to the latitude ; being between twenty and thirt}' degrees, neither fo violent nor hfting as between thirty and thiriy-fix ; and flill encreafmg in proportion as the latitude is greater. Thefe winds have likewife no regular or fettled period, the interval betwixt thejn being fometimes not above eight days ; at others much longer ; nor do they alw ays blow with the fame violence ; but are mod uncertain in the winter, rifmg fuddenly when leaft expected, though not blowing always with the fame force. In this fea a change of the wind from north to north-eaft, is a fure fign of ftormy weather ; for the wind is never fixed in the north-eaft, nor does it ever change from thence to the eaft, its conftant variation being to the weft or fouth-weft, contrary to what is feen in the northern hemifphere. Indeed in both the change of the w ind ufually correfponds with the courfe of the fun ; and hence it is, that as in one hemifphere it changes from the eaft to fouth, and thence to the weft, conformably to the courfe of the luminary, fo in the other it changes for the fame reafon, from the eaft to north, and afterwards to weft. It is an old obfervation among the pilots of this fea, that a day or two before the north wind begins to blow, there is always feen along the ftiores, and about the ftiips, a fort of fea fowl called Quebrantahueflas, i. e. oflifrage, or break-bones. Thefe birds feldom appear at other times. I am little inclined to beUeve, much lefs to propagate any vul- gar report : but here I muft declare, that after repeated obfervations, in order to difcover the truth or falfity of this aflertion, I always faw them before every ftorm I met with here ; and fometimes even a day before, when there was not the leaft appear- ance of the wind's coming about to the north, and as the winds increafed, great num- bers of them gathered about the ftiip, fometimes flying round her, at others fettling on the waves, but always kept near the fliip, till fair weather returned. It is ftill more fingular, that they are never feen either on the fea or land, except in ftormy weather ; nor is it known where they hide themfelves when is it fair, that they ftiould fo immedi- ately cover, as it were, the fea, when their natural inftinct informs them of the approach of a north wind. This bird exceeds the fize of a large duck, has a ftiort thick arched neck, with a large head and a thick but ftiort bill, a fmall tail, a rifing back, large wings and fmall legs. They are by their plumage divided into two different kinds, one being white, fpotted with dark brown, and the upper part of its wings entirely of the latter colour : the breaft of the other, together with the infide of the wings, the whole head, and the lower part of the neck, is white ; but the back, the upper parts of the wings and neck, of a very dark brown, and are hence called Lamo prieto (Black-backs). The laft kind are by the pilots accounted the moft certain fign, the others being often feen without any alteration of weather immediately fucceeding. I well knew a pilot here, who was a native of Callao, a man of indefatigable curiofity and exactnefs, never omitting to infert in his journals the moft minute circumftances. His name was Bernardo de Mendofa, and with him thefe fowls were confidered as fo fure a fign, that when he was in any of thefe ports, and his fliip ready to put to fea, it was his conftant cuftom to.take a walk on ihe fliore, to fee whether he could perceive any of them in the offing ; and if he did, he VOL. xi\'. ^ 4 p continued ^58 ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. continued in the harbour till the tempeft was over ; and he affured me that his conform- ing to this obfervation had been of the greatefl advantage to him ; relating, in confirm- ation of his opinion, that being once at Baldivia, the governor, fofar from regarding his apprehenfions from fuch prefages, turned them into ridicule, and infifted on his putting to fea, but was foon convinced that thefe omens were not chimeras ; for the veflbl was hardly out of the harbour, when a ftorm at north came on with fuch violence, that it was with the utmoft difficulty fhe was faved from being wrecked in that bay ; and this would infallibly at laft have been the confequence, had the ftorm continued fome time longer ; for, even when the wind abated, they found it hardly poffible to carry her into the harbour to repair the damages fhe had received. Other obfervations relating to thefe northerly winds are, that they always blow when the Sures are in their ftrength, in the higher latitudes, and alfo between the parallel of 20" and that of Panama, it being then winter in thofe climates ; and are alfo found in latitudes beyond 20°, but never nearer to the equinodlial. Another obfervation is, that during the time of the brifas, between Panama and the equinoctial, thefe winds are never felt in any part of the Pacific Sea, the fouth winds alone prevailing there. Laftly, it is obferved, that within thirty or forty leagues of the coaft of Chili, while one part is agi- tated with ftorms at north, the fouth winds frefhen in another. This, however fmgular it may appear, is no more than what was experienced by the three fhips, Efperanza, Belen, and Rofa, which being at the mouth of the Bay of Conception, the latter took her leave of them, and bore away with a frefh gale at fouth to Valparaifo, whilfl the ethers who fteered for the iflands of Juan Fernandes, were overtaken in their palTage by a ftorm at north. As in fummer the fouth winds generally fhift between the fouth-foutheaft and eaft- fouth-eaft, fo in winter they continue for fome time between the fouth-weft and fouth ; confequently there is a neceifity, in the latter feafon, to ftand out to fuch a great diftance from the coaft in queft of them, as muft be done in fummer. CHAP. IV. — Account of the I/lands of Juan Fernandes. Voyage from thofe Iflands to Santa Maria, and from thence to the Bay of Conception. THE iflands of Juan Fernandes, which, on account of their fituation, belong to the kingdom of Chili, are two in number ; one, as lying farther to the weft, is diftinguifhed by the epithet De Afuera ; and the other, as nearer the land, or to the eaftward, is called La de Tierra. The former, which is fomething above a league in length, is nearly of an oval figure, and the land very high, fo that it has the appearance of a round mountain ; and its fieepnefs on all fides renders it every where almoft inacceffible. Se- veral large cafcades tumble from its fummit, and the water of one of them, after a fuc- cefTion of long falls among the rocks on the fouth-weft fide of the ifland, precipitates itfelf into the fea with fuch amazing impetuofity, that its froth may be feen at three leagues diftance. The longitude of this ifland, according to the reckoning of Don George Juan, admitting the currents to fet towards the fouth-weft, is y° 2c' W. from the meridian of Callao ; but, according to my computation, 3° 27'. By the coaft we fteered from the meridian De Afuera till we reached La de Tierra, we concluded the oiftance between thofe iflands to be thirty-four leagues. The ifland De Tierra, which is four hundred and forty leagues to the north of Cape Horn, is between three or four leagues from eaft to weft, which is its greateit length. 9 It ULI.OA's voyage to south AMERICA. 659 It is for the mod part high land, but not deftitute of fome plains, though thefe are part of the mountains themfelves. Its valleys are full of trees, and fome of them an excellent timber. Here is likewife the piemento tree, refembling the chiapa in New Spain. The plains and little hills produce a fort of ftraw, refembling that of oats, and growing higher than the ufual ftature of a man. The waters, of which feveral ftreams fall from the eminences into the fea, is very light, creates an appetite, and, among other medici- nal qualities, is excellent againfl indigeftion. Here are many dogs of different fpecies, particularly of the greyhound kind ; and alfo a great number of goats, which it is very difficult to come at, artfully keeping themfelves among thofe ci'ags and precipices, where no other animal but themfelves can live. The dogs owe their origin to a colony fent thither, not many years ago, by the prefident of Chili, and the viceroy of Peru, in order totally to exterminate the goats, that any pirates or Ihips of the enemy might not here be furniflied with provifions. But this fcheme has proved ineffeftual, the dogs being in- capable of purfuing them among the faftnefles where they live, thefe animals leaping from one rock to another with furprifmg agility. Thus far, indeed, it has anfwered the purpofe ; for ihips cannot now fo eafily furnifli themfelves with provifions here, it being very difficult to kill even a fmgle goat. Very few birds frequent this ifland ; and, though we found feveral white feathers on the ground, and alfo parts of carcafes, which feemed to have been gnawed by the dogs, we faw but very few flying, and thofe wholly black. It is not indeed improbable but thefe iflands may be the winter retreats of fome kinds of birds, which on the approach of fummer remove to another climate. In this ifland are mountains of a great height ; and the fides of thofe towards the north are covered with trees of good timber : but few or none are feen on thofe of the fouth part, except in the breaches and valleys, owing doubtlefs to the piercing violence of the fouth winds, which deftroys them or checks their growth. On the other hand, every part is covered with tall grafs or ftraw, already mentioned. Among the various forts of trees with which the ifland is decorated, there are none of the American fruit- trees, owing to the coldnefs of the climate, which is increafed by the violence of the winds, fo that even the heats of fummer are moderate. In this ifland are three harbours or bays ; but thofe on the weft and eaft fides have only water fufficient for fmall veflTels, fo that the only one proper for large fhips is that on the north, or rather north-eaft, fide of the ifland. The latter, which is properly called Juan Fernandes, confifts of a bay formed by the coaft, but expofed to the north and north-eaft winds, fo that in winter no fhip can lie fafely in it ; and even in fummer it is not free from danger, on account of the great depth of water ; for within the dif- tance of a cable's length or two from the ftiore it has fifty fathoms, and growing deeper as the diftance increafes. To this muft alfo be added the badnefs of the ground, which being of fand, and a tenacious mud, mixed with fliells and gravel, the cables are greatly rubbed by it, and confequently the anchorage unfafe. The Ihips are alfo expofed to con- tinual fqualls caufed by the Sures, which produce a very troublefome fea ; violent cur- rents Ukewife fet into the bay, and form dangerous eddies. Laftly, the fteepnefs of the coaft renders it very difficult to be approached on account of the dafhing of the waves againft it ; and accordingly the only fhips that put into this port are fuch as belong to pirates, or the enemy, this ifland being the fole refuge for them in the South Seas : and they expofe themfelves to thefe dangers, merely through the neceffity of taking in water and wood, refrefliing their crews, and furnifliing themfelves with fifh, which is caught here in great abundance. 4 p 2 Thefe 66o ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. Thefe foreign fhips, which, in order to refrefli their crews after the fatigues of fo long a voyage, and the dangers of weathering Cape Horn, make for the harbour of Juan Fernandes, are very careful to fecure themfelves againfl the above-mentioned dangers, and therefore fail up to the fartheft part of the bay, where they moor with an anchor in the water, and another on the fouth-wefl fhore. But even this precaution is not fometimes fufficient to fecure them, as appears from the wrecks of three fhips ; two of which have been long there, but the other of a more recent date. The ifland De Afuera is every where prodigioufly high land, and the fliores fo fteep and craggy as to afford no convenient landing-place ; which, together wdth its having no harbour, prevents all fhips, whether thofe of the enemy, or the country, from touching at it. The fea, all around the ifland De Tierra, may be faid to be filled with fea-wolves, of which there are obferved to be three principal fpecies ; the firfl are fmall, not being above a yard in length, and their hair a dark brown : thofe of the fecond are about a toife and a half in length, and of a greyifh brown colour : and thofe of the third are in general two toifes in length, and the hair of a pale afh-colour. The head of thefe creatures is too fmall in proportion to the refl: of their body, and termi- nates in a fnout ; which, bearing a great refemblance to that of a wolf, they have acquired the name. The mouth is proportioned to the head ; but the tongue is very thick, and almoft round. They have a row of large pointed teeth in each jaw, two thirds of which are in alveoli or fockets ; but the others, being the molt hard and folid, are without them. This threatening appearance is heightened by whifkers, like thofe of cats, or rather tygers. Their eyes are fmall ; and their ears, from the root to the extremity, not above fix or eight lines in length, and of a proportional breadth. Their noftrils are alfo very fmall, and the only parts deftitute of hair, thefe having a glan- dulous membrane, like the fame part- in dogs. This creature has two fins, which ferve them both for fwimming in the water, and for walking on the ground. The tail, which is every where equally cartilaginous, is of a length proportional to the body, but much thicker than thofe of the generality of fifh. They carry it horizontally ; fo that by inverting the laft vertebrae, where the articulations are more flexible than in other parts, they form of it a kind of hind feet ; and at the fame time the fins helping them before, they walk without trailing the body along the ground. A remarkable particular in the formation of this amphibious creature is, that in both the fins and the ex- tremity of the tail there are protuberances refembling fingers ; they are fmall bones or cartilages inclofed within thofe callous membranes which cover the fins and tail. Thefe fingers they can expand fo as to cover the whole breadth of the fin ; and thus form, as it were, the fole to tread upon. At the end of each is a nail, of about two lines in length, and half a line in breadth. Among the feveral articulations in the fins, are two very remarkable, one at the jun(5lion of the omoplata, where it forms a kind of fhoulder, and the other at the extremity of the fin, where the fingers are connefted. The fame economy is obferved in the tail, and thus they are adapted to an amphibious life : accordingly, though not with a celerity equal to that of quadrupeds, they climb up fteep rocks of a height one would think imprafticable to fuch creatures, as they are abfolutely fo to men ; and come down again with the fame eafe, notwithftanding their great bulk and fatnefs, which is fuch in the larger fpecies, that their diameter at the fins is little fhort of a yard and a half. Their organs of generation are placed at the lower extremity of the belly, and at the time of coition the male and female place themfelves on their tails, with their faces 1 1 inward. ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 66l inward, embracing each other with their fins, which, on this occafion, fupply the place of arms. The female brings forth and fuckles her young in the fame manner as ter- reftrial creatures, but has never above one or two at a time. The largeft fpecies are by fome called fea-lions, but in thefe feas their general name is Lobos de Aceyte, or oil-wolves ; becaufe when they move, they appear hke a fkin full of oil, from the motion of the vaft quantity of fat, or blubber, of which their enormous body confifls. And though oil is made from all the fpecies, none yield it in proportion to thefe ; indeed they confift of little elfe. I was once entertained with a particular circumftance relating to this fpecies. A failor having wounded one, it im- mediately plunged itfelf into the fea ; but had hardly tinged the water with its blood, when it was furrounded in an inflant by flioals of the other two fpecies, who attacked and devoured it in a few minutes, which was not the cafe with the other fpecies ; which, when wounded, though they alfo plunged into the water, yet the fight of their blood had no effedt on others ; nor were they ever attacked. They are mifchievous, and their bite the more dangerous, as they never let go their hold ; but they are heavy, torpid, and fluggifh ; nor can they turn their heads without great difficulty. They were fo far from avoiding our men, that they were obliged to flrike them with flicks to make them move out of their way. The cry of their young very nearly refembles the bleating of a flieep ; but when they all join, as it were in concert, the noife is infupportable. They are the chief food of the dogs, who, after killing them, take off their fkin with great dexterity. In their attack, they aim always at the throat ; and when they have deflroyed the creature, they tear the fkin all round the neck ; then feizing it by the head, and putting their fore-feet between the fkin and the flefh, they flrip it entirely off, and then devour the carcafe. The largeft kind, as we have already obferved, are, by the failors, called fea-lions, the heir of the neck dillinguifhing them from the others, and has fome refemblance to a mane, though not much longer than that on the other parts of the animal ; but as their whole body has a greater firailarity to that of the wolf, and being entirely like the other fpecies, the name of fea-wolf feems to be more proper than that given them by the feamen. All thefe kinds of fea-wolves have fo tender a fenfation at the extremity of their noflrils, that though they will bear many wounds in other parts of the body, the Jlightefl ffroke on this difpatches them ; and that they are fenfible of it, is evident from their making it their chief care to defend that part from any violence. A great fingularity is alfo obfervable in the dogs of this ifland, namely, that they never bark. We caught fome of them, and brought them on board ; but they never made any noife till joined with fome tame dogs, and then indeed they began to imitate them, but in a ftrange manner, as if learning a thing not natural to them. The iflands of Juan Fernandes abound greatly in fifh, among which are two fpecies, not obferved in any other part of this vail fea. One is the cod, which, though not abfolutely like that of Newfoundland, the difference is very minute, either with regard to colour, form, tafle, and even the fmall fcales obfervable on that fifh. They are of different fizes, but the largeft three or four feet in length. The other fpecies is a fifh refembling the tollo in fhape, but much more palatable! From the fore part of each of the two fins on his back, grows a kind of triangular fpur, a little bent, but round near the back, and terminating in a point. It has a fine glofs, and the hardnefs of a bone. At the root of it is a foft fpungy fubftance. This fpur, or bone, for it refembles both, is fuch a prefent remedy for the tooth-ache, that. €6j ulloa's voyage to south America. that, the point of it being applied to the part affefted, it entirely removes the pain in half an hour. The firfl account I had of this fingular virtue was from a Frenchman, who was my pilot ; but as reafon would not permit me to give credit, without expe- rience, to a circumftance feemingly fo void of probability, the affeverations of the man increafed my defire of putting it to the proof, which I did fevcral times, and. always •with fuccefs. I did not fail to communicate a difcovery of fuch great benefit ; and accordingly feveral of my acquaintance, who laboured under that excruciating pain, i made trial of it, and found from it the fame happy effeds ; with this particular circum- [■ fiance, that foon after the application of the bone to the part aftedled, it became infenfible of pain, a drowfinefs fucceeded, and they awaked free from the torture. I i obferved that the fpongy fubftance at the root, during the operation, became gradually f inflated, and fofter than in its natural ftate, which could not be effefted folely by the moifture of the mouth, the part put into it being compact, hard, and fmooth as ivory. I am therefore inchned to think, that it has an attraftive virtue, which extracts the morbific humour, and collefts it in the root. The common length of thefe anodyne fpurs, or bones, is two inches and a half, of which one moiety, together with the root, is within the body of the fifli. Each face of the triangle is about four lines in breadth. They are taken in the fame plenty as the others. The abundance of filh about thefe iflands is fuch, that two hours filhing in the morning, and as many in the evening, with only fix or eight nets, procured not only a fufficiency for all the fhip's company, but a confiderable quantity remained for falting. The chief kinds are cod, berrugates, the fpur-fifh, fole, turbot, jureles, and lobfters ; befides an infinite number of fmall fifh, which covered the water ; a circum- ftance the more furprifing, as there are fuch multitudes of fea-wolves all along the coafl, which live on nothing elfe. For though there is very little fifhing near thefe iflands, yet doubtlefs the conftant ravages of fuch enormous creatures may be thought at leaft: equal to the capture of a large fifhery. Thefe feveral fpecies are all fo delicate and palatable, that the epicure would be at a lofs which to prefer. The lobfters are often half a yard in length, and are taken even with greater eafe than the others. They are of an exquifite tafte, though the meat is fomething hard. The berrugate is a large fcaly fifli. We continued at anchor near this ifland till the 2 2d of January ; during which time, we reconnoitred every part of it, and particularly vifited the place where the Englifli had erefted their tents, in order to difcover any private fignal they might have left for the information of any other ftiips that fliould afterwards touch at this ifland. The pre- fident of Chili had, with the fame view, fent a fliip hither fome months before our arrival ; but all they met with was two bottles, in each of which was a writing in cypher ; and all we difcovered were the piquets and poles of the tents ; with their fmall wooden bridges for crofling the breaches, and other things of that kind. Both our frigates having taken in water and wood, we failed at three in the afternoon for the ifland of Santa Maria, which we made on the 5th of February, and after carefully furveying it on all fides, continued our courfe till half an hour after feven of the fame day, when we came to an anchor at Puerto Tome, on the eaft fide of the bay of Conception. j At our departure from the ifland of Fernandes, we fteered firft eaft one quarter Ibutherly, and the winds continuing between the fouth and fouth-eaft, we tacked on the 23d, and fteered between the weft-fouth-weft and fouth-fouth-weft, but on the 28th, being in the latitude of 35° 33' 30", 33' 30" fouth latitude, and a degree weft of the meridian De Afuer;i ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 66^ Afuera de Juan Femandes, we obferved the winds to fliift from fouth to fouth-weft. Accordingly we altered our courfe, fteered eaft and eaft-fouth-eaft till the 31 ft day, when we found ourfelves in the latitude of 36° 23' and about fifteen or twenty leagues north-weft of the bay of Conception. But the weather, which had been the fame alfo the day preceding, was fo hazy, that we^could not fee the other frigate. Sometimes indeed we difcerned the colours, but without having any fight either of the hull or maft*. This was however fufficient to affure us that they were within half a cannon fhot of each other. This, and our being fomething to leeward of the bay, obliged us to ftand to feme diftance oft" to fea ; and thus we kept along the coaft without venturing to approach it till the 5th, when at half an hour after nine in the morning, the weather cleared up, and gave us fight of Cape Carnero, bearing fouth-fouth-eaft ten or twelve leagues : and the middle part of Santa Maria, north-eaft one quarter northerly. We crouded all fail towards the latter, and at eleven the frigates lay-to. Cape Rumena bearing fouth one quarter eafterly diftance four leagues, and Cape Lavapies eaft one quarter north-eaft, diftance two leagues. The fouth point of the ifland of Santa Maria bore north-eaft four leagues diftant, the north point of the fame ifland north-north-eaft and a large rock without, north one quarter eafterly. Here we fent our long-boat with orders to go betwixt the iflands and the continent, and take a furvey of it, and then join us in Conception bay. Accordingly the frigates got under fail at twelve at noon, with a frefh gale at fouth-fouth-eaft and foon after came to an anchor in the faid bay. Don George Juan, from his reckoning, concluded that the ifland of Santa Maria, w'hich lies in T,y° 3' fouth latitude, was 7" 10' eaft of the ifland De Afuera de Juan Fernandes. Whereas I differed 0° 14' from him, making it only 6° 56'. To the north-weft of this ifland, at the diftance of a league and a half, is a lofty fteep rock with feveral fmaller at its foot ; and one league and a half farther to fea- ward, alfo on the north-weft fide of the ifland, is a fhoal, which, though we at this time faw no breakers on it, we took care to keep at a proper diftance. And in my fecond voyage, in the year 1744, I had a clear view of it, for I not only faw the breakers, it being then low-water and the fea running high, but alfo a reef of rocks at the water's edge. The country pilots have affured me, that by fteering in the middle between this fhallow and the rock, there is a very fafe channel, having in moft parts fifty or fixty fathom water. In my fecond voyage above-mentioned, on board a French frigate called La Deliv- rance, in the latitude of 36° 54' and 2° 24' weft of the ifland of Santa Maria, about half an hour after making our obfervations, we unexpectedly found ourfelves in a traft of thick water of a yellowifh colour ; which, naturally occafioning a great fur- prife, we ffarted from the table, being then at dinner, and haftened up to the quarter- deck. It was now too late to put the fhip about ; fhe being in the very centre of it. This fhoal, as it appeared to us, ftretched near two leagues from north to fouth, and was about fix or eisrht hundred toifes over from eaft to weft. The colour of the water O was of fo deep a yellow, that, after Providence had happily carried us through it, we could eafily diftinguifh it at a confiderable diftance. I muft own, our confternation was fuch, from our concluding we were on a Ihoal, as there was all the appearance of it, that we had no thoughts of bringing the frigate-to, till we had got our founding line in order. In feme parts the water was of a deeper yellow, as being more * This I fuppofe is a miftake, and ought to be read thus ; fometiines we faw the looming of the fail*, but could not perceive the hull. A. fhallow. 664 ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. fhallow. In others we could perceive rays of fea or green water, intermixed with that of the fhoal. No chart has taken any notice of it ; nor was it indeed before known to any of the pilots of thefe feas, as they themfelves acknowledged, notwlth- ftanding their repeated voyages. We fhould therefore have been guilty of a great indifference with regard to the public fafety, had we neglected to have given this ac- count of it. The general winds, between the iflands of Juan Fernandes and this place, are the fame as thofe which reign in the gulph ; and which have been already defcribed ; but the currents are different, fetting north-wefl: ; and this becomes the more perceivable in proportion as you approach nearer to the coafl:. From the ifland De Tierra de Juan Fernandes eaftward, the water is grc-euifli, and weftward blueifh. This I have myfelf obferved feveral times, even when not in fight of the ifland ; and alfo that the colour of the water changes with the meridian. Between the iflands and the continent I have frequently feen the water fpouted up by the whales ; an appearance which has been often taken for breakers. Within twenty or thirt)' leagues of the coaft, we met with large flights of curlews ; but this diftance is the utmoft limit of tli«ir excurfions. Thefe birds are of a middling bignefs, moflly white except the breaft and upper part of the wings, which are of a rofe colour. Their heads are proportionate to their bodies, but their bill very long, flender and crooked ; and as fmall at the root as at the point. Tliey fly in vaft troops, and confequently are eafily known. The coafts in general of this fea, from Guayaquil to the fouthward, are very diffi- cult to be feen, except in fummer time, being the whole winter covered with fuch thick fogs, that no objeft can be difcerned at half a league diftance. And this dan- gerous hazinefs extends often to the diftance of fifteen or twenty leagues off to fea. But during the night, and till about ten or eleven in the morning, the fog is only on the land. At that time it moves farther to feaward, with a prodigious denfity, re- fembling a wall, totally concealing every objeft on the other fide of it : and the cautious mariner forbears to make his way through it, being uncertain whether he fhall meet with clearer weather, as he approaches nearer to the coaft. Thefe winter fogs on the coaft of Chili, feem to be occafioned by the north winds ; they being obferved always to thicken when thofe winds blow> and though the atmo- fphere be clear when the wind fhifts to that quarter, it is inftantaneoufly filled with thofe vapours; which continue without any diminution, till the fouth winds fet in, and have blown frefh for two or three days fucceflively. But as in winter they are ufually interrupted by the winds at north-weft and fouth-weft, thefe vapours, fo inconvenient to commerce, are feldom totally difperfed ; and it is a common phrafe among the mariners of thefe parts, that the north is a filthy wind on account of the difagrecable vapours, with which it is loaded, and the fouth is a cleanly wind, fweeping thefe nuifances from the coaft and country, and purifying the air. I call thefe winter fogs, as they are equally common all along the coaft from the parallel of twenty to the equinox, where no north winds are known. And as I have already related of Lima, all the inhabi- tants of the coaft live, during the winter, in a perpetual fog. fhall ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 665 . I fiiall conclude this chapter, with a table of the variations of the needle obferved in my fecond voyage, in the frigate La Delivrance, from Callao to Conception Bay. South Latitude. Longitude from Callao. Variations, and their Kinds. Degrees. Minutes. Degrees. Minutes. Degrees. Minutes. 22 134- 351 03 7 58 E 25 37i 349 51 9 22 28 27 348 46 9 42 32 10 350 45I 9 58 32 52i 35^ 14I 9 06 33 5^i 352 32 10 00 35 06 354 39f II 10 36 57 000 47f II 15 Don George Juan, who failed from Callao, with the Delivrance, as commander of the Lys, another French frigate, made the following obfervations : — South Latitude. Longitude from j Variations, and Callao. 1 their Kinds. Degrees. Minutes. Degrees. Minutes. Degrees. Minutes. 12 06 000 00 8 52E 12 23 50 00 359 00 ! 7 350 00 6 48 00 25 27 30 33 30 00 45 30 349 15 348 30 349 00 352 20 5 I 7 00 15 00 10 Without the Ifland of Juan Fernandes. i 33 1 33 1 -5-' 50 40 45 356 00 000 00 002 00 8 10 10 30 45 I On the Coaft of Valparalfo. i 33 20 005 00 1 12 30 The fenfible difference between thefe variations arofe from the difference of the needles, by which they were obferved ; and the reafons for that difference have been confidered in another place. The difference of the meridians between Callao and Conception, appears from the feries of obfervations made by us at Lima, and thofe by Father Feuillee, at the fame place, to be 3" 58', which is the eaftern diftance of Conception from Callao, yet in the maps of this country, it is placed eight or nine degrees to the eaftward, a miftake VOL. XIV. 4 Q proceeding 666 ulloa's voyage to south America. proceeding from a want of attention in the pilots iii obferving the direclion of the cur- rents ; and as thefe carry the fhip to\\'ards the fouth-welt, the pilots, when in the offing, begin to compute their diflance from the coaft. But this being in reality much greater than that given by the rhumb, they are afterwards under a neceflity of lleering towards the eaft, and thence their reckoning makes the port farther to the eaflward than it really is ; and the currents running fometimes with a greater velocity than at others, pilots often dift'er in placing the meridian of Conception, fo that very few at firfl: make the Cape, though aflifted by that chart, which they coniider as the beft. For all thefe draughts are laid down from the falfe conclufions of erroneous journals, no allowance having been made for the fetting of the currents. The difference of latitude proves, beyond contradiftion, the reality of the currents, and th^ degree of their velocity, as i have already noticed. On the 26th of Jajiuary, fhe Efperanza, a Spanifli frigate, commanded by Don Pedro de Mendinueta, came to an anchor in the harbour of Talcaguano, after her voy- age from Monte- Video in the river of Buenos Ayres, round Cape Horn, which fhe had performed in fixty-fix days. On our arrival at Puerto Tome, an officer came on board the Belin, the very fame night we came to an anchor ; and the day following, being the fixth of February, our two frigates joined the Efperanza at Talcaguano, and form- ed a little fquadron under the command of Don Pedro de Mendinueta, according to orders from the Viceroy, who had received an account that the Elperanza lay ready at Monte- Video, to proceed on her voyage that fummer into the South Sea, and that Com- modore Don Jofeph Pizarro, with other officers, were travelling over-land to Santiago de Chili ; which he had reached at the time of our arrival. 'CHAP. V. — Defcription cf the City of Conception, in the Kingdom of Chili ; with an Account of its Comnwrce, and the Fertility of the Country. CONCEPTION, otherwife called Penco, was firft founded by Captain Pedro de Valdivia, in the year 1 550. But the powerful revolts of the Indians of Arauco and Tucapel, obliged its inhabitants to remove to Santiago. They cannot, however, be charged, with having quitted their fettlement, till they had been defeated feveral times by the Indians, in one of which they loft the above-mentioned Pedro de Valdivia, who, as governor of that kingdom, was commander-in-chief of the forces employed in the conquefl of it. The fimie unhappy f^te alfo attended Francifco de Villagra, who, as Valdivia's lieutenant-general, had fucceeded in the command. Thefe misfortunes, and the fuperiority of the allied Indians, obliged the Spaniards to abandon Conception. The inhabitants, however, being defirous of poffeffing again their plantations in the neighbourhood of that city, and of which they ufed to make fuch large profits, peti- tioned the audience of Lima for leave to return to their original city ; but had foon fufficient caufe to repent of not having exerted their induftry in improving the place whither they retired ; the Indians, on the firfl notice that the Spaniards v\ ere returned 'to the city, forming a powerful alliance under a daring leader, called Lautaro, took by florm a fmall fort, which was the whole defence of the city, and put all to the fword, except a fmall number who had fortunately efcaped to Santiago. Some time after, Don Gracia de Mcndoza, fon to the Viceroy de Mendoza, Marquis of Canete, arriv- ing as governor of Chili, with a body of forces fufficient for making head againft the Indians, reflored the inhabitants of Conception to tlieir former poffeffions, with the greatelt apparent fecurity. But the year 1603 gave birth to a new and more general confederacy, ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 667 confederacy, by which means Conception, La Imperia, and Baldivia, with fix fmaller places, were deftroyed ; being the greatefl part of the places in this kingdom. Con- ception, however, received frefli fuccours, the city was again repaired, and has con- tinued ever fince. Its latitude, according to an obfervation we made in the year 1744, at Talcaguana, which lies exadly eaft and weft with the city, is 36" 43' 15" fouth, and its longitude i&-om the meridian of Tenerift, according to Father Fevillee, 303" 18' 30". The city is built on the fouth-weft fliore of a beautiful bay, on an uneven fandy ground, and on a fmall declivity, having a little river running through it. The city, in its extent, is fcarce equal to one of the fourth clafs. The deftruftion it fuffered in the dreadful earthquake of 1730, occafioned all the houfes to be built low, though it had before been fubjeft to thefe fudden convulfions of nature. This was, however, the laft of thofe remarkable for their melancholy confequences, which extended to Santiago, the capital of the kingdom, which was involved in the fame ruin. On the 8th of July, at one in the morning, the firft emotions were felt, and the concuflions increafing, the fea retreated to a confiderable diftance ; but in a fmall time returned fo impetuoufly, and with fuch a fwell, that it overflowed the whole city, and the neighbouring countries. In this fudden calamity, the inhabitants had no other afylum than the neighbouring eminences. This inundation was foon fucceeded by three or four fhocks ; and, at about four in the morning, a little before day-break, the concufTions returned with the moft tremendous violence, demolifliing the few buildings which had withftood the firft lliocks, and the rapid motion of the fea. The houfes are all either of topias, or mud walls, or adoves, unburnt bricks ; bu6 covered with tiles. The churches are fmall and mean 5 the fame inay be faid of the Francifcan, Auguftine, and Dominican convents, as well as thofe belonging to the fa* thers of Mercy : but the college of Jefuits is not wholly deftitute of elegance, being well built, and of a tolerable architecture. The political government of this city confifts of a corregidor, nominated by the King, and who is at the head of the ordinary alcaldes and the regidores. During the vacancy of this poft, the duty is performed by the prefident of Chili, who is governor, and captain-general of the whole kingdom, and prefident of the audience of Santiago, on which, as its capital. Conception is dependent. The court of audience was originally eftablifhed in the latter, and continued there from the year 1567 to 1574; but the danger and difturbances, occafioned by the frequent revolts of the Indians, caufed it for a while to be fuppreffed, and afterwards to be removed to the city of Santiago* The prefident is, however, obliged to refide fix months of the year at Conception, that he may attend carefully to the military concerns of the frontiers, fee that the forts be in a good condition, and well provided with every thing, in order to keep the Indians of Arauco in awe, and that the military forces are in good order, and well difciplined^ and always in readinefs to repel any attempts of the Indians, provided they fhould ever abandon their dread of the Spanifli troops. During the other fix months, when the governor refides at Santiago, he acts in a very different character ; hearing complaints^ redreffing grievances, and adminiflering julHce, that this tribunal may receive the greater dignity from his prefence. Here is alfo a chamber of finances, at the head of which is an accountant and treafurer. Befides which. Conception has likewife all the other courts and offices ufual in the cities of South America, As all the inhabitants of the towns, villages, and country, within the jurifdiftion of Conception, form different bodies of militia, fome of which are in pay, and all muft be ready on any fudden alarm, there is, befides the corregidor, a Maeftra de Campo, 4 Q 2 wh(J 66$ ulloa's voyage to south America. who commands in all the militiary afFairs without the city ; but we Ihall have occafion to give a farther account of his duty in the fequel. This city at firft belonged to the diocefe of Imperial ; but that being ruined by the perpetual incurfions of the Indians, the epifcopal fee was removed to Conception, and the chapter changed. It is now a fuffragan of Lima, and has a chapter confifting of a bifhop, dean, archdeacon, and two prebendaries. The jurifdiftion of Conception extends from the river Maule on the coaft north of the city to Cape Lavapies. It has few villages ; but the whole country is full of feats, farms, and cottages. The inhabitants confift of Spaniards and Meftizos, who in colour are hardly diftin- guifhable from the former ; both being very fair, and fome have even frefh cora- plexions. The goodnefs of the climate, together with the fertility of the country, have drawn hither many Spanifh families, both Creoles and Europeans, who live toge- ther in that harmony and friendfhip, which fliould be an example to the other parts of thefe provinces ; where the comforts of fociety are greatly leffened by the feuds arifing from a mean pride and jealoufy. The men in general are well-ihaped and robuft, and the women handfome. Their cufloms and drefs are a kind of com- pound of thofe of Lima and Quito, but more nearly refemble the latter, except that the men ufe, inftead of a cloak, a poncho, which is made in tlie form of a quilt, about two yards and a half or three in length, and two in breadth, having an open- ing in the middle juft fufficient to put their head through, the reft hanging down on all fides. This is their drefs in all weathers, whether walking or riding. The peafants, whom they call Guafos, never pull it off but when they go to reft, tucking it up in fuch a manner, that both their arms and whole body are at full liberty either for labour or diverfion. This is an univerfal garb among all ranks when they ride on horfeback, an exercife very common here j and the women are particularly famous for their (kill in horfemanfhip. This drefs, though fo plain and uniform in itfelf, ferves to diflinguifh the rank and quality of the wearer ; as its price is proportional to the work on it. Some wear it as a covering, fome for decency, and others for fhew. Accordingly if thofe of the common people coft only four or five dollars, others have ftood the owners in an hundred and fifty, or two hundred. This difference arifes from the finenefs of the fluff, or from the laces and embroidery with which they are decorated. They are of a double woollen fluff, manufadtured by the Indians, and generally of a blue colour, embroidered with red or white, fometimes indeed the ground is white, embroidered with blue, red, and other colours. The peafants are furprifingly dexterous in managing the noofe and lance ; and it is very feldom, that, though on full fpeed, they mifs their aim with the former. Accord- ingly, thefe are their chief arms, and they will halter a wild bull with the fame agility as any other creature^; nor could a man, however cautious, avoid being taken in their noofe. I fhall relate an inftance of their addrefs, with regard to an Englifhman whom we knew at Lima. He was in the long-boat of a privateer, then lying in Conception bay, intending to land at Talcaguano, with a view of plundering the neighbouring villages ; but a body of the country militia made to the fliore in order to oppofe them. Upon this, the Englifh fired upon them with their mufquetry, imagining that would be fufficient to put them to flight, and thus the place be open for them to land. They had no fooner difcharged their pieces, than one of the peafants, though the boat was at a confiderable diftance, threw his noofe, and notwithftanding all in the boat threw themfelves on their faces, he noofed the above-mentioned perfon, pulling him out of II the ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 669 the boat with the greateft rapidity ; whiift the others, inftead of endeavouring to fave hirti, in their fright thought cf nothing bu' how to get out of danger as foon as pofli- ble. It was the Enghfhman's good fortune not to be ftraiagled or killed by the bruifes he received, the flip-knot having pafled from one fhoulder under the oppolite arm, fo that he recovered in a few days. As it is very feldom that they mifs, and are obliged, on haltering a creature, to draw the knot, at the fame time that they throw the noofe, thev clap fpurs to their horfe, and put him on his full foeed : that the creature is fo far from having time to difengage itfelf, that it is no fooner caught than difabled. This is alfo one of the weapons, if I may give it that name, ufed in their private quarrels, defending them- felves with a lance of a middling length. And their addrefs on thefe occafions is fo very remarkable, that very often, after a long difpute, in which both parties are heartily tired, they part, with no other hurt than a few bruifes. This is alfo the method they take to fatisfy their revenge, endeavouring to halter the objefl: of -their hatred, either as he runs from them, or is jiot apprized of their intention. In this cafe the only refource in an open country, on feeing him with his noofe in his hand, is, to throw onefelf on the ground, keeping the legs and arms as clofe to the furface as poffible, that the rope may have no room to get under any part. The perfon may alfo fave himfelf by {landing clofe to a tree, and, if in the ftreet, by placing himfelf a^ainil the wall. A fmall diilance, that is, under ten or fifteen paces, partly renders their dexterity ineffedual ; but there is very great danger of being entangled when the diftance is thirty or forty. The noofes, or halters, are thongs of a cow's hide, cut round the Ikin, and of a proper breadtii. Thefe thongs they twift, and work with fat, till they are of a proper degree of fupplenefs ; but fo ilrong, that though when twifted they are not larger than the little finger, yet they hold the wildeft bull when its efforts to efcape would break a rope of hemp of much larger dimenfions. The climate of this city is not effeniiallv different from that of the greateft part of Europe. Winter is indeed fomething colder than in the fouthern provinces of Spain, but milder than thofe of the northern ; and the fummer heats proportionably. In winter the inhabitants feem to be little incommoded by the north winds, and in fummer the heats are moderated by the cooling breezes from the fouth. The heat is however greater in the city than in the adjacent country, occafioned chiefly by the diflierent difpofition of the ground, being interfered by various rivers, fome of which are very large, as the Arauco and the Biobio. The latter of which, at a league above its mouth, is very near four leagues in breadth. It may, however, in fummer be forded, but not without danger ; in the winter it is pafl'ed in balzas. At the fouthern banks of the river, the territories cf the wild Indians begin, and near the fame fliore towards that part are the chain of frontier forts, of which a farther account will be given in the fequel. The country of this jurifditlion confifts principally of extenfive plains, the Cordillera being at a confiderable diftance to the eaftward, and the whole fpace between it and the fea-coaft, one entire and uniform plain, interrupted only by a few eminences, which are an ornament to the country, and render the perfpedive of it the more agreeable. The great afiinity between this climate and that of Spain is evident from its products, though there is a remarkable difference with regard to their goodnefs and plenty, in both which this country has greatly the advantage. The trees and plants of all kinds have their regular feafons, embellifliing the fields with their verdure, entertaining the fight with their various flowers and bloffoms, and gratifying the palate with their delicious fruits. It is needlefs to mention that the times of the feafon muft be oppofite, confequently 670 ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. confequently the winter in Spain is their fummer, and the autumn of the former, the fpring of the latter. In faying that this country produces the fame corn and fruits as Spain, I do not mean thofe of the moft fouthern parrs ; for neither fugar-canes, oranges, nor lemons thrive here. Nor is it well adapted to olive-yards, though fome olives are produced here. But the fruits cultivated in the centre ot Spain are the fame with thofe produced here in a mofl aftonifhing plenty, wheat and other grain generally producing an hundred fold. I fhall here relate an inftance I myfelf faw and examined at Talcaguano, in a garden near the fea-fide, at a place called the Morro, very little more than a quarter of a league from the harbour. Among feveral flalks of wheat that had grown there without culture, I faw one whofe ftem was not more than a foot from the ground, but from its knots there afterwards fprung fo many ftalks, as produced thirty-four ears *, the largefl: of which were near three inches in length, and the leafl not lefs than two. The mafler of the houfe obferving that 1 viewed this production of nature with aftonifhment, told me that it was nothing extra- cfrdinary, for though the grain in the ground commonly fown, did not often attain fuch a luxuriancy, it was common for each ftalk to produce five or fix ears. vThis information raifed my curiofity ; and I met with fo many inftances afterwards, that my furprife at feeing the flalk juil mentioned was greatly abated ; as from the moifture, advantageous expofure, and richnefs of the foil, a much greater produce might natu- rally be expetted than in the ground conftantly fown. The great plenty of wheat here is fufficiently indicated by its price ; a meafure w^eighing fix arobas and fix pounds, being ufually fold for eight or ten rials. Yet for- want of a market, though at fo low a price, no more is fown than is neceifary for home confumption ; and thence a great part of the country lies fallow. Here are vines of feveral kinds, and which vie with the wheat in exuberance. They are alfo, both with regard to the richnefs and flavour of their grapes, elteemed beyond any produced in Peru. Moft of them are red. A fort of Mufcadel is alfo made here, whofe flavour far exceeds any of the kind made in Spain. The grapes grow moftly in efpaliers, and not on detached vines. In this refpett alfo, as in the wheat, large trads of ground are totally neglefted. For though its produce is fo confiderable, the buyers are fo few, that the vineyards do not anfwer even the expence of cultivation. The chief ufe made of thefe rich lands by the owners is, the fattening of oxen, goats and fheep. And this is the principal employment of greateil part of the inhabitants of the country of all ranks, and univerfally of the lower clafs. As foon as the horned cat- tle are fattened in thefe luxuriant paflures, and the proper feafon arrived, four or five hundred, and even more, according to the largenefs of the farm, are flaughtered. They take out the fat, melt it into a kind of lard, there called Graila ; and buccaneer or dry the flefli in fmoke ; but the greatefl profit arifes from the hide, the tallow, and the grafla, a fufficient proof of their prodigious fatnefs when killed. But an idea of the fer- tility of this country may be befl formed from the value of a live beafl, which, when fit to be killed, may be purchafcd for four dollars j a price vaftly beneath that in any other part of India ; and may be fuflicient to remove the unjufl reproach of the poverty of this province. For were the induftry of the people equal to the fertility of the foil, this kingdom would be the moft opulent of any in America. The manner of flaughtering the beafts renders it a favourable diverfion to the perfons employed in performing it, and it mull be owned that their dexterity is really furpriiing. The cattle intended to be killed are drove into an inclofure. At the gate are the Guafos * This fpecies of wheal is called Tntlcum /pica tnullipUci, and is cultivated in Italv and Sicily. 8 on ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 67 1 on horfeback with their fpears two or three toifes in length, and at one end a very fharp piece of fleel in the form of a half moon, the points of which are about a foot diftant from each other. Every thing being ready, the gate of the inclofure is opened, and a bead turned out, which naturally betakes itfelf to flight, but is immediately purfued by a guafo, who, without checking his horfe, hamftrings it in one leg, and then immedi- ately in the other. He then alights, and having difpatched his capture, {kins it, takes out the tallow, the fat for the grafla,and cuts up the flefh for falting and drying. This done he wraps up the tallow in the hide, and loading it on his horfe, car.'-ies it to the' farm ; returning again for the flefli. After this he fets out on another expedition. Sometimes they turn out at once as many beafts as there are guafos ready to kill them. And this is the daily exercife till all the cattle appointed for that year's flaughter are difpatched. An European is furprifed not only at their dexterity in hamftringing the bead, when both are on full fpeed, but alfo to fee one man alone go through the whole work in fuch a regular method and great difpatch. If the beaft be fwifter than his horfe, the guafo has recourfe to his noofe, and halters him by throwing it either abour his neck, or round one or two of his legs, according as opportunity offers, and by that means fecures him. Then if a tree be near at hand, he gives the end of the thong two or three turns round the trunk, and the whole difficulty of killing the beaft is over. The tallow is wrapt up in the hides, and in this manner carried to the citv for fale ; the graffa is melted into bags of fheep-fkins ; the flefh, after being cut into thin flices. is falted, and this is what they call Tafl'agear ; afterwards it is buccaneered or dried in the fmoke*, and fold. The hides they tan, and make from them a moft excellent leather, efpecially for the foles of fhoesf. Goats alfo, as we have already obferved, are fattened and turn to good account. Their tallow nearly refembles that of the ox, and the Cordovan leather made of their (kins furpaffes every thing of that kind made in anv part of the whole kingdom of Peru. All other provifions and grain are in the fame plenty, turkeys, geefe, and all kinds of poultry are fold at a remarkable low price, great numbers of them being bred all over the country, with little care and no expence. Wild fowls alfo are very common, among which are canelones, and others defcribed among the birds found in the deferts of Quito, though thefe are not fo large, and more like the bandarrias as they are there called. Here are alfo wood-pigeons, turtle-doves, partridges, fnipes, woodcocks, and royal cirapicos, &c. And with regard to thefe, the air may be faid to vie with the fer- tility of the earth. Among the birds I muft not omit one of a very fmgular kind, and found all over the country. The natives call thefe birds difpertadores, awakeners, from their giving notice to others of the approach of any danger. On hearing the nbife of the approach of any creature, whether man or beaft, or feeing them within a fmall diftance, they rife front the ground, and make a loud chattering not unlike that of a magpye ; continuing the noife, and flying about in the air over the objeft which caufed the alarm. This is un- derftood by the birds thereabouts, who immediately rife, and by that means efcape the danger. This bird is about the fize of a middling fowl, its plumage black and white, has a thick neck, the head fomething large, erecf, and beautifully adorned with a tuft of feathers ; its eyes are large, fharp and lively ; its bill well proportioned, ftrong, and a little curved. On the fore part of their wings are two fpurs, about an inch in length, * They dry it in the fun, by which it attains a nifty colour, and appears as though it had been dnei in fmoke. A. f They tan thin leather with the bark of the mangrove tree. A, ,i 6yi ulloa's voyage to south America. of a reddifli dnt tow-ards the root, and their points refembhng thofe of a cock, being very hard and fliarp. Thefe are the Tveapons they make ufe of againft the other birds, par- ticularly thofe of prey, as hawks, and others of that kind, which probably abound the more in this country, from the great variet\' of prey it affords them. Among the Tinging birds is the goldfinch, in ever)' particular refembling thofe of Spain, except a fmall ^-ariation in its plumage. There are befides others proper to this countr}', and met with in all the cold cUmates, parrioilarlv the piches, which are fome- thing larger than fparrows. They are of a brown colour, fpotted with black, except their bread, which is of a mofl beautifiil red, and forae feathers of the fame colour in their wings, intermixed with others of a bright yellow. Amidil all the fertihtv of this country, the only infects are the niguas or piques ; and though fome Ihakes are found in the fields and woods, their bite is not dangerous. Neither are the country- pealants imder any apprehenfion from ravenous bealls ; fo that nature may be faid to pour' her treafures on this countr\-, without blending them \^ith the ufual inconveniences. The fruits which moflly abound in Chili, are of the fame kind as thofe known in Europe ; its cherries in particular are large, and of a fine tafte. The ftrawberries are of two kinds, one called trutillas, and are larger than thofe of Quito, wanting Uttle of being equal to a hen's egg in magnitude. The other, which in fize, colour and taile, perfectly referable thofe of Spain, grow wild, on the fide of the eminences with which the plains are interfperfed. And here alfo grow ail kind of flowers, without any other culture than that of benign nature. Among the remarkable herbs, of which many are medicinal, and others applied to divers ufes, is the panque, of great fer\ice in tanning leather. It abounds everv where, and grows to about four or five feet horn, the ground. The principal ftem, which is of a foft fubflance, is betwixt four and five inches in diameter, and about two feet and a half in height, feparating there into feveral branches, bearing round, ferrated, rough, and thick leaves, and fo large that their diameter, when full grown, is feldom lefs than a foot and a half, and fometimes two feet. Before the plant is fit to be cut, when the leaves begin to turn red, the pealants make an incifion into the bark, and fuck the juice, which is verv cooling and ailringent ; but as foon as ever the leaf is obferved to turn white, an indication of decay, they cut the plant down at the root, take off the branches, and di%ide the flalk into fhort pieces, which being dried in the fun make an excellent tan. Befides this rich variety of productions on the furface of the earth, the countr)' alfo abounds with valuable mines and quarries ; particularly of Lapis lazuli and loadllone, copper equal to the beft of Europe ; befides feveral of gold ; but no ad\'antage is de- rived from any ; the inhabitants, contented with the plentiful enjoyment of all the ne- ceflaries of life, extend their wifhes no farther, lea\-ing to the curiofity and a\-arice of others, the laborious fearch after what the earth contains in its bowels. This kingdom of Chili feems alfo to have been the lirlt country of thofe famous horfes and mules mentioned in the firft part. Indeed all thefe creatures found in Ame- rica owe their origin to fome imported from Spain. At prefent however, thofe of Chili furpafs not only thofe of the other parts of America, but even thofe of Spain, from whence they are derived. The horfes firll brought over might pofGbly have been of the running kind, Spain flill abounding in that fort. But it mufl be owned, that greater care has been taken here of preventing the breed from being mixed with others of a lefs generous fpedes ; and by this means they greatly exceed thofe of Spain ; for widi- out any other incentive than thar owti inclination, before they will fuffer any other to get before them, they will exert their utmofl flrength ; and at the fame time their motioD ULLOA's VOTAOE to south AMERICA. 6^% motion is fo eafy, that the rider is not the leaft fatigued. In beauty and gracefulnefs they are not inferior to the famous Andelufian horfes, and at the fame time full of fpi- rit. Accordingly they are every where fo highly valued, that a more acceptable prefent cannot be made to a perfon of the greatefl diftindion, than one of thefe beafts. Many purchafe them for parade, and befides their being common all over the kingdom, they have been fent even to Quito. The great demand for them, and confequently their high price, has induced the inhabitants of feveral countries to attempt the breeding of them ; but none are equal to thofe of Chili. The commerce at Conception might be confiderably increafed, were the country, which is far from being the cafe, inhabited in any proportion to ics fertility and extent ; but for want of a fufEcient number of hands, their commerce is at a very low ebb, con- fiding almofl entirely in provifions, wine, &c. and this is fo fmall, that it is chiefly carried on by only a fmgle fhip coming once a-year to Callao to load vrith them, together with a few others trading to Chiloe and Baldivia, and in their return touch here. Their exports are tallow, gralTa, cordovan, bend leather, excellent butter, wines, and dried fruits. The goods brought hither in exchange are the feveral forts of woollen ftuifs from Quito, and others from Europe, iron, and mercury. Very few European goods are however imported ; for the people here not being remarkable for their riches, ufe only home-made fluffs and bays, which, though extremely good, are in no great quantity. The commerce carried on between the inhabitants of Chili, and the Arauco Indians, fhall be mentioned in its proper place. CHAP. VI. — Defcription of Conception Bay, its Roads or Harbours, Fijh, Sfff. and thefingular Mines of Shells in its Neighbourhood. THE bay of Conception, befides its excellent bottom, is of fuch an extent, as not to be equalled by any on the whole coaft. For from Tierra-Firma, north and fouth, its length is nearly three leagues and a half, and its breadth from eafl to weft, almoft three leagues, being the diftance betwixt the harbour of Talcaguano, and the Cirillo Verde, or little green mountain, fituated near the city ; from whence its breadth is contrafted by the ifland of Quiriquina, which, lying in the mouth of it, forms two entrances, of which that on the eaft fide is the fafeft, being two miles in breadth, and accordingly frequented by moft fhips. The weft entrance is between the ifland and Talcaguano point, and is near half a league in breadth. In the principal entrance of this bay is thirty fathom water, which depth afterwards decreafes to eleven and ten, till within about a mile of the fhore, oppofite to the entrance. The weftem, though the many rocks and breakers in it make it appear very dangerous, has a channel with water fufEcient for the largeft fliip, the depth being at firft thirty fathom, and never lefsthan eleven ; it is fituated in the middle of the entrance, that is, at an equal diftance between the rocks which project about a quarter of a league from Talcaguano point and Quiriquina. Within the bay are three roads or harbours, where fhips anchor ; for though the bottom be every where clear, it is only in one of thefe three places fhips can ride in fafety, being no where elfe fheltered from the wind. The firft, called Puerto Tome, lies eaft and weft with the north point of Quiriquina, contiguous to the coaft of Tierra Firma. The anchoring place is about half a league diftant from the land, in about twelve fathom water. But this road is only ufed when fhips come in during the night, VOL. XIV. 4 R it 674 ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. it being difficult to reach either of the other two before day light, as feveral tacks muft be made for that purpofe. In this bay the principal port is that of Talcaguano. It is properly an elbow, and bears fouth-fouth-wefl from the fouth point of Quinquina. This is by far the mofl fre- quented, fhips in general anchoring here, having not only better ground than any other part of the bay, but are in fome meafure fheltered from the north winds. Whereas at Cirillo Verde, they lie expofed, not only to thefe, but alfo to the fouth winds, the land which fhould intercept them being low. Befides, the bottom is of a loofe mud, fo that the anchors in a hard gale of wind generally come home ; and confequently the fhips in great danger of being fhranded on the coaft. From thefe inconveniences it may be concluded, that the only Ihips which anchor here, are fuch as happen to be in thofe parts in the midft of fummer, and are in hafte to take in their loading, for which this road is mofl convenient, as being nearefl the city. Two rivers empty themfelves into this bay, one of which, paffing through the city of Conception, has thence the fame name ; the other is called St. Pedro. The firfl is the watering-place for fhips anchoring at Cirillo Verde ; whereas thofe at Talcaguano fupply themfelves with that neceflary fluid from fome ftreams which flow from the ad- jacent eminences ; they eafily take on board a fufficient quantity of wood, of which there is here plenty ; as of all other neceffaries. Ships, before they enter the bay of Conception, endeavour to make the ifland of Santa Maria, and then coafl along it, keeping at the fame time a good look-out for a reef of rocks which ftretches out almoft three leagues from the north-weft point ; thence they continue their courfe, keeping at a little diflance from the main, there being no rocks but what are above water. After weathering the real of rocks on the ifland of Santa Maria, they fteer dire£lly for Talcaguano point, at the diftance of about half a league ; from which feavvard, is a rock called QuiebraoUas, which muft be the more carefully avoided as it is furrounded with fhoals. There is, however, no danger, if the fhip be not nearer than half a mile ; indeed there is a fufficient depth of wate? within a cable's length. After their being a-breaft of this rock, they fteer for the north point of Quiriquina, off which lie two rocks, but the fartheft from the fhore is only a quarter of a league, and may be fafely approached within a ftone's caft. Both thefe rocks fwarm with fea-wolves, and as there is a fufficient depth of water all round them, there is no other danger in ftanding near them, than what may be feen. There is indeed a neceffity for ftanding near them, to avoid falhng to leeward of the bay. After paffing them, the courfe is continued as near as poffible to the ifland of Quiriquina, taking care to avoid fome other rocks lying along the fhore. As fhips are generally obliged to make feveral tacks in order to get into Conception bay, care muft be taken not to approach too near to the ifland of Quiriquina, either on the eaft or fouth fides ; for though the coaft is bold on the north and north-weft fides, there is a fhoal on the fouth extending to a confiderable diftance from the fhore. At a third'*part of the diftance between the road at Talcaguano, and the point of the fame name, is another flioal, running abnut half a league to the ealhvard, in the middle of it is a ledge of rocks, whofe tops are dry at low water. To avoid this fhoal, though the thick water fufficiently indicates it, the bell way is, at entering the mouth of the bay with a land wind, to fteer dire£tly for the middle of a fpot of red earth on a moun- tain of a middling height, fituated at the bottom of the bay, continuing this courfe till the fhip is paft the fhoal ; and then fteer directly for the houfes at Talcaguano, till within about half a mile from the fhore, which is the ufual anchoring place in five or n fix ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. Sy^ fix fathom water ; Cape Harradura being covered by the ifland of Quiriquina. The fame care is alfo neceflary to avoid another reef of rocks, lying between the Morro and the coaft of Talcaguano ; nor muft the IVIorro fide be approached too near, there being a fand ftretching all along from that reef of rocks to Cirillo Verde. The fhips riding at Talcaguano in the manner thus prefcribed, are Iheltered from the north wind ; but not entirely fo from the fea, which in thofe winds runs very high, and pours in through both entrances. The goodnefs of the bottom, however, fecures the fhip. During the force of thefe winds there is no polTibility of landing on account of the great fea ; but in fair weather, every place is convenient for going on Ihore. The country round the bay, particularly that between Talcaguano and Conception, within four or five leagues from the fhore, is noted for a very fmgular curiofity, namely, that at the depth of half or three quarters of a yard beneath the furface of the ground, is a flratum of fhells of different kinds, two or three toifes in thicknefs, and in fome places even more, without any intermixture of earth, one large fhell being joined together by fmaller, and which alfo fill the cavities of the larger. From thefe fhells all the lime ufed in building is made ; and large pits are dug in the earth for taking out thofe fhells, and calcining them. Were thefe ftrata of fhells found only in low and level places, this phsenomenon would be more eafily accounted for by a fuppofition no ways improbable, namely, that thefe parts were formerly covered by the fea, agreeably to an observation we made in our defcription of Lima. But what renders it furprifing is, that the like quarries of the fame kind of fhells are found on the tops of mountains in this country, fifty toifes above the level of the fea. I did not indeed perfonally examine the quarries on the higheft of thofe mountains, but was afTured of their exifl- ence by perfons who had lime-kilns there ; but I faw them myfelf on the fum- mits of others at the height of twenty toifes above the furface of the fea ; and was the more pleafed with the fight, as it appeared to me a convincing proof of the univerfality of the deluge. I am not ignorant that fome have attributed this to other caufes ; but an unanfwerable confutation of their fubterfuge is, that the various forts of fhells which compofe thefe ftrata both in the plains and mountains, are the very fame with thofe found in the bay and neighbouring places. Among thefe fhells are three fpecies very remarkable ; the firft is called Chores, already mentioned in our defcription of Lima ; the fecond is called Pies de Burros, affes feet ; and the third Bulgados : and thefe to me feem to preclude all manner of doubt that they were originally produced in that fea, from whence they were carried by the waters, and depofited in the places where they are now found. I have examined thefe parts with the clofefl attention, and found no manner of veftige of fubterraneous fires. No calcinations are to be met with on the furface of the earth, nor among the fhells ; which, as I have already obferved, are not intermixed with earth ; nor are there ftones, or any other heterogeneous fubftances found among them. Some of thefe fhells are entire, others broken ; as muft natui'ally happen in fuch a clofe comprefTion of them, during fo long an interval of time. This circum- ftance, however trifling it may appear to fome, may deferve the confideration of thofe who have advanced the notion, that fhells may be formed in the earth by fubterraneous fires, co-operating with the nature of the foil. The Pie de Burro has its name from the fifh inclofed in it, refembling, when taken out, the foot of an afs. This fifh is of a dark brown colour, firm and filaceous ; it is an univalve, its mouth almoft circular, and its diameter about three inches. The bottom of the fhell is concave within, and convex without. The colour within is per- fedly white, the furface very fniooth, the outfide fcabrous and full of tubercles. Its 4 R 2 thicknefs 676 ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. thicknefs in every part is about four or five lines ; and being large, compa(Et, and heavy, is preferred to all others for making lime. The bulgados, in the Canaries called bulgaos, are fnails, not at all differing in their form from the common ; but larger than thofe of the fame name found in gardens, being from two inches to two inches and a half in diameter. The fhell is alfo very thick, rough on the outfide, and of a dark brown colour ; and next to the preceding makes the belt lime. AlPthefe fpecies of fhell-filh are found at the bottom of the fea in four, fix, ten, and twelve fathom water. They are caught by drags ; and what is very remarkable is, that no fhells, either the fame, or that have any refemblance to them, are feen either on the ftiores continually walhed by the fea, or on thofe tracks which have been overflowed by an extraordinary tide. They adhere to a fea-plant, called Cochayuyo lake-herb, the Indians making no nominal diftinftions between the inland lakes and the fea, calling both cochas. This plant refembles the bejuco ; its diameter is about half an inch, and from its root to its extremity of an equal thicknefs. In length is from twenty to thirty toifes, producing at every eighteen inches, or fomething more, a leaf about a yard and a half or two yards in length ; but the breadth, which is in every part the fame, does not exceed two or three inches. It is remarkably fmooth, which, together with a vifcid liquor, with which it is covered, gives it a very fine glofs. The fame may be faid of the ftem, which is extremely flexible, and flirong. Its colour is of a pale green, but that of the leaves more vivid. This plant divides itfelf into feveral branches, equal in dimenfions to the main ftem. Thefe branches fucceflively produce others of the fame proportion ; fo that the produce of one fingle root covers a prodigious fpace. At the joints, \Vhere the branches fpring, are found this kind of fhell-fifh, where they both receive their nourifliment, and propagate their fpecies. The extremities of thefe cocha- yuyos float on the furface, and in fome lakes, where the water has remained a long time undifturbed, form a kind of carpet. At the jundion of the ftalk of every leaf with the ftem, is a berry refembling a caper, but fomething larger, fmooth and glofly on the fur- face, and exaftly of the fame colour with the ftem. The feas on thefe coafts abound in excellent fifti, though not in fo great a degree as thofe near Juan Fernandes. Here are feen in particular a great number of whales, which come even into the bay ; alfo tunny-fifh and fea-wolves. Among the amphibious creatures, here is one known all along thefe coafts, and even at Callao. It is called Pajaro Nino, the bird-child. It in fome parts refembles a goofe, except that its neck and bill are not arched, and is fomething larger. It has a thick neck, a large head, and a ftrong ftiort bill. Its legs very fmall, and in walking the body is in an ereft pofition. Its wings are fmall, cartilaginous, and nearly refemble the fins of the feal. Its tail is fo fmall as hardly to be diftinguifhed ; its wings and whole body are covered with a fhort brown hair, like that of the fea-wolves, and generally full of white fpots, though fome are of other colours ; fo that, upon the whole, the bird makes no difagreeable appear- ance. It lives promifcuoufly either in the water or on land ; on the latter it is eafily taken, being very flow in its motions ; but when attacked, bites feverely, though it is obferved never to be the firft aggreflbr. CHAP. VII. — DefcriptioH of the City of Santiago, the Capital of the Kingdom of Chili. AFTER giving an account of all the cities and places of note through which we pafled, 1 muft not omit the capital of the kingdom of Chili. We had not indeed occa- 9 fion ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 677 fion to vifit it perfonally ; but by the informations we received from perfons befl: qualified to anfvver our enquiries, in the ports of its jurifdiftion, to which our affairs called us more than once, we are enabled to gratify the curiofity of a rational reader. The city of Santiago, originally called Santiago de la Nueftra Eflremadura, was founded by Captain Pedro de Valdivia, who began the foundation on the 24th of Fe- bruary 1 54 1, in the valley of Mapocho, near that of Chili, which gives its name to the whole kingdom. It has not been fubjeft to the revolutions of other places, but ftill {lands on its original ipot, which is nearly in 7,^,° 40' fouth latitude, and about twenty leagues from the harbour of Valparaifo, the neareft port to it in the South Seas. Its fituation is one of the moft convenient and delightful that can be imagined, ftanding in a delightful plain of twenty-four leagues in extent, watered by a river flowing in meanders through the middle of it, and called by the fame name of Mapocho. This river runs fo near the city, that, by means of conduits, the water is conveyed from it through the ftreets, and alfo fupplies the gardens, which few houfes are here without, and hence the delightful fituation of the place, and the pleafure of the inhabitants are greatly heightened. The city is a thoufand toifes in length from eaft to weft, and fix hundred in breadth from north to fouth. On the fide oppofite the river, which wafhes the north part of it, is a large fuburb, called Chimba ; and on the eaft fide, almoft contiguous to the houfes, is a mountain of a middling height, called Santa Lucia. The ftreets are all of a hand- fome breadth, paved and ftraight ; fome run exactly in an eaft and weft diredlion, and are crofted by others, lying exaftly north and fouth. Near the middle of the city is the grand piazza, which, like that of Lima, is fquare, with a very beautiful fountain in the center. On the north fide are the palace of the royal audience, where the prefidents have their apartments, the town-houfe, and the public prifon. The weft fide is taken up by the cathedral and the biftiop's palace. The fouth fide confifts of fhops, each de- corated with an arch ; and the eaft is a row of private houfes. The other parts of the city are divided into infulated fquares of houfes, regular, and of the fame dimenfions with thofe of Lima. The houfes here are built of adoves, or unburnt bricks, and very low ; this neceflary caution againft the terrible devaftation of earthquakes being equally neceflary here as in all other towns of Peru, calamities with which this city has been often vifited ; but the moft remarkable are the following : 1. In the year 1750 an earthquake happened, which overflowed feveral mountains in this kingdom ; many villages were entirely deftroyed, and great part of the inhabitants buried in their ruins. 2. In the year 1647, on the 13th of May, many of the houfes and churches of this city were ruined by another fliock. •^. In 1657, on the 15th of March, the earth was obferved to have a tremulous motion for the fpace of a quarter of an hour, and few of the buildings in the city were left ftanding. 4. In 1722, on the 24th of May, great part of the houfes were damaged by another earthquake. ^ 5. In the year 1730, on the 8th of July, happened that tremendous earthquake al- ready mentioned in our account of Conception. This fliock not only ruined the greateft part of the city, but concufllons were often felt for many months afterwards ; and this cataftrophe was fucceeded by an epidemical diftemper, which fwept away even greater numbers than had before periflied by the earthquake. Notwithftanding the houfes are low, they make a handfome appearance, and are well contrived both for pleafure and convenience. Befidcs 678 ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. Befides the cathedral and the parifli-church of the Sagrario, here are two others, naniely, that of St. Anne, and St. Ifadoro. There are alfo three convents of St. Fran- cifco, San Diego, a college for ftudents, and, without the city, a convent of Recoiledbs ; two of Auguflines, one of Dominicans, one of the fathers of Mercy, one of St. Juan de Dios, and five colleges of Jefuits, namely, St. Michael, the Noviciate, St. Paul, St. Xavier ; a college for ftudents, who wear a brown cloak, and a red fcarf ; and the college, called La Olleria, for the exercifes of St. Ignatius. Here are alfo four nunne- ries, two of St. Clare, two of Auguftines, and one of Carmelites ; and a religious fifter- hood, under the rules of St. Auguftine : all which have a large number of reclufes, as is common in all the cities of Peru. The churches of the convents, befides being very fpacious, are built either of brick or flone, and thofe of the Jefuits are diftinguiflied by the beauty of their architecture. The parifli-churches are in every refpeft greatly infe- rior to them. The inhabitants of Santiago are computed at about four thoufand famiUes, and of thefe nearly one half are Spaniards of all degrees ; and among them fome very eminent men, both of rank and opulence. The other moiety confifts of Cafts and Indians, but chiefly of the latter. The cuftoms here differ very little from thofe already mentioned in our account of large cities. They are not fo negligent in the care of their apparel as at Conception ; and inftead of the oftentation of Lima, they follow the modeft decency of Quito. The men, except on fome particular ceremonies, generally wear ponchos, and all the famihes who can any way afford it, keep a calafli for driving about the city. The men are robuft, of a proper flature, well ffiaped, and of a good air. The women have all the charms of thofe of Peru, and are rather more remarkable for the delicacy of their features, and the finenefs of their complexions ; but they disfigure' their natural beauty by a mifplaced art, painting themfelves in fuch a prepofterous manner, as not only to fpoil the natural delicacy of their fkin, but even their teeth j fo that it is very rare to fee a woman here of any age with a good fet. In this city is a royal audience, removed hither from Conception. It confifls of a prefident, four auditors, and a fifcal, together with another officer dignified with the endearing title of patron of the Indians. The determinations of this court are without appeal, except to the fupreme council of the Indies, and this is only in matters of notorious injuftice, or denial of redrefs. The prefident, though in fome particulars fubordinate to the viceroy of Lima, is alfo governor and captain-general of the whole kingdom of Chili ; and, as fuch, he is to refide one half of the year at Conception, and the other at Santiago. During his abfence from the lafl: city, the corregidor acts as his reprefentative ; and his jurifditlion, on this occafion, extends to all the other towns, except the military governments. The magiflracy, at the head of which is the corregidor, confifls of regidores, and two ordinary alcaldes. In thefe are lodged the police, and civil government of the city ; and during the time the prefident refides here, the jurifdittion of the corregidor is limited to the liberties of Santiago. The office for the royal revenue is dire£ted by an accountant and treafurer ; where are paid the tributes of the Indians, and other parts of the revenue ; the falaries of officers within its department, and other affignments. The chapter of the cathedral confifls of the bifhop, dean, archdeacon, chanter, four canons, and other fubordinate ecclefiaflics. Here ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. 679 Here is alfo a tribunal of Croifade, the members of which are a fub-delegate com- miflary, an accomitant, and treafurer. Likewife a commiffion of inquifition, all the officers of which are appointed by the tribunal of inquifition at Lima. The temperature of the air at Santiago is nearly the fame with that of Conception. The luxuriancy of foil, and exuberance of all kinds of provifions, the commerce, and other neceffary particulars, I fhall mention in the following account of the kingdom of Chili. CHAP. VIII. — Account of that Part of Chili luithin the jurifdidion of the Audience of Santiago. THE kingdom of Chili extends from the frontiers of Peru to the ftreights of Ma- gellan, the diftance being five hundred aiid thirty leagues. Thefe two kingdoms, as I have mentioned in another place, are feparated by the defart of Atacamo, which extends eighty leagues between the province of the fame name, being the laft of Peru, and the valley of Copoyapu, now corruptly called Copiapo, the firft in Chili, and in every particular refembles the defart of Seftura. Eaftward, fome parts of this kingdom terminates on the frontiers of Paraguay, though fome uninhabited defarts intervene ; and others border on the government of Buenos Ayres ; though between thefe are the Pampas, or extenfive and level plains. Its weftern boundary is the fouth-fea, ex- tending from twenty-feven degrees nearly, the latitude of Copiapo, to 53° 30'. But to confine ourfelves to the true extent of this kingdom, as inhabited by the Spaniards, it begins at Copiapo, and terminates at the large ifland of Chiloe, the fouthern ex- tremity of which is in 34° of fouth latitude ; and its extent from well to eaft is the diftance between the Cordillera, which is here^ of a ftupendous height, and the coaft of the fouth-fea ; that is, about thirty leagues. Part of the country which at prefent compofes the kingdom of Chili, was fubjeded to the empire of the Yncas by Yupanqui, the tenth emperor ; who, incited by the inchanting account given of thefe provinces, undertook the conqueft of them ; and profecuted the enterprize with fuch fuccefs, that he fubdued the feveral nations inha- biting the valleys of Copoyapu or Copiapo, Coquimpu or Coquimbo, and Chili. But in his intended career fouthward, the viftoriousYnca met with an unfurmountable difficulty from the Purumauco Indians, and other nations, whom the rapidity of his conquefts had induced to oppofe him by a general confederacy. Thus he found himfelf under a neceffity of defifting, after having carried his arms as far as the river Mauli, which is in the latitude of 34° 30'. After the Spaniards had undertaken a defcent in Peru, and made themfelves mafters of its feveral provinces, the Marlhal Don Diego de Almagro was commiffioned for the conqueft of Chili. Accordingly he marched from Cufco at the beginning of the year 1535, and after lofing the greateft part of his Indians, and a confiderable num- ber of Spaniards, who perifhed with cold in paffing over the Cordillera Nevada, he arrived at Copiapo, where the Indians, without trying the chance of war, fubmitted. Animated with fuch unexpefted pufillanimity, he proceeded to the conqueft of other nations ; even fuch as never had acknowledged the Yncas. And though he here met with a more warlike people, who were determined to fell their Hberty dear, he carried on the war profperoufly. But His Majefty, in confideration of his great fer- vices, performed with fo much hazard, having conferred on him the government of a territory a hundred leagues in length, fouth of that which belonged to the Marquis Doa 68o OLLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. Don Francifco Pizarro, a difference arofe between thefe two great men, with regard to the boundaries of their refpeftive governments. Almagro, impatient to take pof- feflion, and pretending that the city of Cufco ought to be included in his government, the conqueft was fufpended, and he himfelf haftened to that city, where, inftead of being inverted with the chief command, he fell a facrifice to the jealoufy of Hernando Pizarro, who endeavoured to conceal his irregular proceedings under the veil of juftice. In the year 1541, the conqueft of Chili was again fet on foot, and the Marquis Pizarro conferred the command on Pedro do Valdivia, together with the title of general. Accordingly he marched into the country, and founded moft of the principal towns and villages in it. So that in the year 1548, he was promoted to the government of it, by the prefident of Peru. In the profecution of the conqueft of thefe provinces, he had many fliarp flcirmiflies with the natives, till at laft, in the year 1553, bravely oppofing a general revolt with a very inferior force, he fell, fighting with the greateft intrepidity, at the head of his troops, the greateft part of whom, enraged at lofmg fo brave a man, chofe to perifh with him, rather than fave themfelves by flight. His name, befides the figure it makes in hiftory, is ftill preferred in this country, in the town of Valdivia, which he founded. The martial genius of the Indians of this kingdom confiderably retarded the reduc- tion of it ; and has always been the chief caufe why the Spanifh fettlements here are fo little proportional to the extent, fertility, and riches of the country. Accordingly the captain-generaKhip of this vaft kingdom has only four particular governments, and eleven jurifdidions ; which are the following : Particular governments in the kingdom of Chili : I. The major-generalfliip of the III. Valdivia. kingdom of Chili. IV. Chiloe, II. Valparaifo. Jurifdiftions in the kingdom of Chili : I. Santiago. VII. Quillota. II. Rancagua. VIII. Coquimbo. III. Colchagua. IX. Copiapo and Guafco. IV. Chilian. "X. Mendoza. V. Aconcagua. XI. La Conception. VI. Melipilla. I. To the major-generalfhip of the kingdom of Chili, belongs the military govern- ment of the frontier towns and fortreffes. Thefe are Arauco, the ftated refidence of the general Santajuana, Puren, Los Angeles, Tucapel, and Yunibel. It will be here neceflary to obferve, that not above five leagues fouth of Conception bay, the fea re- ceives a river called Biobio, both the fouth banks and head of which are inhabited by wild Indians : and to prevent their incurfions, ftrong forts have been erefted along the banks, and are always well garrifoned and furniflied with all kinds of military ftores. Among thefe on the fouth banks of the river is the tort of Arauco, and the others at a proper diftance eaftward to the mountain of Tucapel. Thus all attempts from thefe Indians is precluded, and the Spanifti fettlements protected from their depreda- tions, The general is obliged to vifit thefe forts from time to time, carefully infpeft- ing ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 68 1 ing into their condition, and, in cafe of neceflity, to haften to their relief. During his abfence, the commanding officer of each is the captain of the garrifon, which ufually confifling both of horfe and foot with their officers, the perfon on whom the command devolves is previoufly nominated. This important poft is in the difpofal of the prefident, as fuppofed to be beft acquainted with the merits of the feveral compe- titors when a vacancy happens ; and that the fafety of his government will induce him to prefer the moft deferving. Accordingly, whoever intends to offer himfelf a candidate for this poft, Ihould folicit to be employed in the frontier lervice, procure a competent knowledge of the ftratagems of the Indians, and be very attentive to diftinguifli him- fdf on any alarm or encounter. It is indeed expreffed in the royal commiffion, that the corregidor of Conception (hall be the military commander-in-chief; and, confe- quently, it is to him that the appointment of the general properly belongs ; but this, from very powerful reafons, is difpenfed with, the proper difcharge of thefe two polls being utterly incompatible ; and the civil and military requifite here very rarely meeting in the fame perfon. But when this obftacle does not exifl, and the corregidor is one of thefe extraordinary perfons, the prefident, agreeably to the royal expreffion, con- fers the poll of Maeftre de campo on the corregidor of La Conception. II. Valparaifo is the fecond military government. But the particular account of it, I fhall defer for a more proper place. III. Valdivia has a military governor nominated by the King. Here is alfo a good body of troops, both for garrifoning the place, and the forts built to defend the entrance of the river and harbours in it. Clofe to the river ftands the town, the inhabitants of which are chiefly whites or Meftizos ; but a village forming a kind of fuburb is in- habited by friendly Indians. This government has undergone fome viciffitudes in point of fubordination, being fometimes independent of the prefidents of Chili, and imme- diately fubject to the viceroy of Lima ; and at other times a part of the former. At laft, on weighing the difficulties for providing for any fudden exigence, or having a watchful eye over its neceffary concerns at fo great a diftance as Lima, it was annexed to the jurifdiclion of the prefident of Chili, as being nearer at hand to fee that the forces are always on a good footing, and confequently in a proper poflure of defence. IV. Chlloe has a military governor, who refides at Chacao, the principal harbour of the ifland, being well fortified and capable of making a good defence. Befides Chacas, which has the title of a city, is another place much larger, called Calbuco, where refides a corregidor, who ie nominated by the prefident of Chili. It has alfo regidores and alcaldes chofen annually. Befides the parifh-church here, is a convent of Fran- cifcans, another of the fathers of Mercy, and a college of Jefuits. The ifland is every-where well peopled with Spaniards, Meftizos, and Chriftian Indians- The kingdom of Chili has continually a body of regular troops, confifting of five hundred men, for garrifoning Valparaifo, a fort at Conception, and thofe on the frontiers. One half of this body is infantry and the other cavalry. Under the major- general who commands in chief, is a ferjeant-major, whofe duty it is to render them expert in all the various parts of military exerclfe ; and that he may more conveniently render them ready at their feveral evolutions, he refides at the fort of Jumbal, which lies in the center of the others. To thefe alfo belong a commiffary-general of the horfe, whofe poft is at Arauco, and in the abfence of the general has the command. Thefe troops have alfo a mufter-mafter-general, who refides at Conception. The ftanding forces of Chili, till the beginning of this century, confifted of two thoufand men : but the great charge of fupporting fuch a body of troops occafioned them to be reduced to the prefent number. VOL. XIV. 4 s The (||)a[ ulloa's voyage to south America. The produee of the revenue-officers at Santiago and Conception, not being AifEcient to defray the expences of even this fmall body, a remittance of 1 00,000 dollars is every year fent from Lima, half in fpecie, and half in clothes, and other goods. But fix or eight thoufand is annually deduQed out of this fum for repairing the forts of the frontiers, and making prefents to the deputies of the Indians who attend at conferences, or to fatisfy thofe who complain to the prefident of injuries received. Valdlvia alfo receives from the treafury of Lima, an annual fupply (?f 70,000 dollars, 30,000 in fpecie, the value of thirty thoufand in clothes for the foldiers, and 1 0,000 in fpecie, which is paid to the King's officers at Santiago, in order to purchafe flour, charqui, grafla, and other neceflaries for the garrifon at Valdivia. Thefe remittances are conveyed in fliips which fail from Valparaifo. I. The jurifdidion of Santiago we have already obferved to be limited to its boun- daries. IL Rancagua is a jurifdiO:ion in the country, and owes its name from the inhabitants living in fingle houfes, without the appearance of a village, every family in their lonely cottage, four, fix, or more leagues from each other. It is not, however, without a kind of capital, confifting of about fifty houfes, and between fifty and fixty families, mod of them Mellizos, though there caft is not at all perceivable by their complexion. The whole jurifdiftion may contain about a thoufand families, Spaniards, Meftizos, and Indians. III. Colchagua refembles in every circumftance the former, except its being better peopled ; its inhabitants, according to the befl computations, amounting to fifteen hun- dred families. IV. Chilan is a fmall place, but has the title of city, the number of families, by an accurate calculation, not exceeding two or three hundred, and having few Spaniards among them. V. Aconcagua is a very fmall place at the foot of the mountains, but the country is interfperfed with a great number of fingle houfes. The valley of the fame name is fo delightful, that a town called Phelipe le Real, was built in it in 1741. VI. Melipilla made no better figure than the foregoing jurifdictions, till the year 1742, when a town was ere£Ved in it by the name of St. Jofeph de Longronno. VII. Quillota. The town of this name does not contain above a hundred families ; but thofe fcattered over the country exceed a thoufand. VIII. Coquimbo, or La Serena, according to Father Feuillee, ftands in 24° 54' i o'' fouth latitude. This was the fecond town built in the kingdom of Chili, in 1544, by Pedro de Valdivia, with a view of fecuring the intercourfe between Peru and Chili, for the more convenient fupply of what fuccours might be wanted ; and at the fame time, for fecuring the fidelity of the Indians who lived in that valley. This place is fituated in the valley of Coquimbo, from whence it received its original name ; but Valdivia gave it that of Le Serena, from an aff'eftion to the province of that name in Spain, and of which he was a native. It ftands about a quarter of a league from the coaft of the South Sea in a moft delightful fituation, having an extenfive profpeft of the fea, the river, and the country, which prefents the fight with a charming variety of fields of different kinds of grain, and woods of a lively verdure. This town is of itfelf large^ but not proportionally peopled ; the number of families not amounting to above four or five hundred, confiffing of Spaniards, Meftizos, and a few Indians. The ftreets are ftraight and of a convenient breadth, fome of which lying north and fouth, and others interfering from eaft to weft, the town confifts of fquares of buildings, like Santiago, and other places of note in this part of America. The houfes are all of mud walls, and covered with leaves ; but none are without a large garden, well planted with fruit-trees and efculent vegetables, both thofe of America 10 and ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. 683 and Spain ; for the climate is happily adapted to a variety of both kinds, the heats not being exceffive, nor the colds fevere ; fo that both in the fertility of the earth, and the cheerfql appearance of the country, the whole year wears an afped; of one perpe- tual fpring. The flreets, though regular and convenient as above-mentioned, are not entirely formed by the houfes, parts of the intervals between the feveral fquares being filled up with gardens ; and molt of them have fo charming an appearance, as to atone for the mean afpe£t of the houfes. Befides parifli-churches, here is a Francifcan, a Dominican, and an Auguftine con- vent ; one belonging to the fathers of Mercy, another to St. Juan de Dios ; and a college of Jefuits. The churches of thefe religious fraternities are large and decent. The parilh-church occupies part of one fide of the great fquare ; and oppofite is the town- houfe, where the alcaldes and regidores meet, who with the corregidor form the corporation. On the north fide of Coquimbo runs the river, after flowing in various meanders through the whole valley of the fame name ; and by canals cut from it, furnifhes the town with water, one great ufe of which is to preferve the beauty of their gardens. IX. Copiapo is about twelve leagues from the fea-coaft, very irregularly built, but contains between three and four hundred families. The fea-port nearefl to it is that known by the fame name. There is indeed another port in this jurifdidlion ; but it lies thirty leagues farther to the fouth, and confifts only of a few huts. X. Mendofa. The town of this name is fituated on the eaftern fide of the Cordillera, at the diflance of about fifty leagues from Santiago. It flands on a plain, and is decorated with gardens in the fame manner as Coquimbo, and the place being well fupplied with water by means of canals, no care is wanting to keep them in their greatefl beauty. The town confifts of about an hundred families, half Spaniards or whites, and the other half cafts. It has befides a decent parilh-church, a Francifcan, Dominican, and Auguftine convent, together with a college of Jefuits. This jurif- diftion has alfo two other towns, that of St. Juan de la Frontera, likewife to the eaft- ward of the Cordillera, and about thirty leagues north of Mendoza, and St. Luis de Loyala, about fifty leagues eaftward of Mendoza. The latter however is mean and fmall, not containing above twenty-five houfes, and fifty or fixty families, Spanilh and cafts ; though many more are fcattered up and down the neighbouring country. In fuch a fmall place it is fomething remarkable to fee a parifh-church, a Dominican convent, and a college of Jefuits. Here the prefidents of Chili are received as governors of it, in their way to Chili from Buenos Ayres, this being the firft place in their government on that fide. The town of-St. Juan de la Frontera is, in every refpeft, equal to Mendoza itfelf. XL The jurifdiction of Conception is the laft ; but having already given an account of it, I fhall proceed to confider the commerce carried on by the kingdom of Chili with Peru, Buenos Ayres, Paraguay, and its own towns ; and fubjoin an account of that carried on with the wild Indians bordering on it, with the manner of maintaining a harmony with thefe favage people. In the mean time I fhall conclude this chapter with obferving, that the corregidors of. the whole jurifdittion are nominated by the King, except thofe of Rancagua, Melipilla, and Quillota, who are appointed by the prefident of Chili. This is indeed the cafe of all the others, when a corregidor happens to die, before a perfon is nominated to fucceed him ; but the office of thefe corregidors being only for five years, the prolongation muft be by His Majefty's exprefs order. The inhabitants are formed into companies of militia, and every one knows the place of arms to which he is to repair on any alarm. Thus to Valparaifo belongs the com- 4 s 2 panics 684 LLLOA S VOYAGE TO SOUTH A3IBUICA. panies of militia of Santiago, Ouillota, Melipilla, Aconcagua, and Rancagua ; and thefe in all amount to between two or three thoul'aitd men, and are formed into troops and companies. Rancagua, when Santiago and Colchagua are threatened, is alfo to fend fuccours thither ; and the fame duty lies on Chilian with regard to Conception. In thefe cafes aotice is conveyed with fuch difpatch, that they are fpeedily at their rendezvous, all they have to do, being to mount their horfes and repair to their ftation with the ufual pace ufed in that count.iy, which is always a gallop ; and thus the militia of this country may be faid to ride poll to the parts where danger calls them. CHAP. IX. — Gonimenc of Chili. — Methods ufed to keep tip a good Harmony xvith the wild Indians. IN my defcription of the city of Conception, I mentioned the inchanting beauties of the neighbouring countries ; and the exuberant returns of nature for the hulLandman's toil. The like profufion of natural productions is feen all over this kingdom. Its plains, eminences, valleys, in fliort the whole country to the fmallelt portion of ground, is an objedt of admiration. Every particle of earth in this amazing fertility feems transformed in feed. The country round Santiago, as it is not inferior in plea- fantnefs and fertility to that of Conception, fo alfo from the great aifinitv to the climates, its produfts are nearly the fame. Accordingly fome farmers wholly apply themfelves to corn, others to fattening of cattle ; fome confine themfelvea to the breed- ing of horfes, and others to the culture of vines and fruit-trees. The firfl find their account in plentiful harvefts of wheat, barley, and particularly in hemp, which thrives here furprifingly, and furpafles thofe of the former. The fecond, at their large {laughters, have great quantities of tallow, gralla, charqui, and fole leather tanned. Of the goat-fkins is made Cordovan leather ; fome tallow is alio procured from thofe creatures. Wines are made here of feveral forts, and though not fo excellent aS thofe of Conception, they are very palatable and of a good body ; brandy is alfo diftilled from them. Thefe are the principal articles of the aclive commerce of this king- dom with Peru, which it fupplies with wheat, tallow, and cordage ; and by the moil careful eflimate, the quantity of wheat fent annually from Santiago to Callao, amounts to 140,000 Tanegas, each weighing one hundred and fifty-fix pounds ; about eight thoufand quintals of cordage ; and between fixteen and twenty thoufand quintals of tallow : befides fole leather, nuts, filberts, figs, pears, and apples ; grafia, charqui, and neat tongues : the three lafl; being no inconfiderable articles. The more northern parts of the kingdom, as Coquimbo, produce olives, the oil of which is preferable to that of many parts of Peru ; but being a natural commodity of that kingdom, and confequently not an article of exportation, is confumed at home. The country about Santiago, likewife, produces good olives ; but in no great quantit)', the genius of the inhabitants having not hitherto led them to make large plantations of thofe trees. Befides the commerce carried on with Peru in provifions, there is that of metals, this kingdom abounding in mines of all kinds, but principally of gold and copper, which we fhall briefly confider. The moft famous gold-mine known in Chili, is called Petorca, and lies in a country eaft of Santiago. This gold was formerly highly efleemed, and found in great plenty ; but now, on account of a whitifh tinge, the value of it is confiderablj' diminiflied. 1 2 This ULLOa's VOY.IGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. 685 This mine, for the length of time it has been worked, is equal to the moft celebrated in Peru. In the country of Yapel, which is fituated in the feme quarter, but farther to the northward along the Cordillera, are alfo rich gold-mines, and the metal twenty -three carats fine. In 1710, in the mountains of I.umpanqui near the Cordillera, were dif- covered mines of gold, filver, copper, lead, tin, and iron, the gold between twenty- one and twenty-two carats fine ; but the working, from the hardnefs of the flone, where, according to the miner's phrafe, " the metal arms," was very difficult and laborious. This inconvenience does not however occur in the mountain Llaoin, where the flone is foft, and not lefs rich in metal, equal in finenefs to the former. Befides thefe, there are other gold-mines, worked with good fuccefs at Tiltil, near Santiago. Betwixt Ouillota and Valparaifo, in a part called Ligua, is a very rich gold-mine, and the metal greatly efteenied. Coquimbo, Capiapo, and Guafco, have alfo gold- mines, and the metal found in the two laft, is, by way of pre-eminence, called Oro Capote, being the moft valuable of any yet difcovered. Another kind of mines of the fame metal has alfo been found in this kingdom ; but thefe were exhaufted almoll as foon as they were opened. Mines of this kind are very common, as well as another kind called I.avaderos *, moft of which are between Valparaifo and Las Pennuelas, and about a league from the former. Some of them are alfo found at Yapel, on the fron- tiers of the wild Indiajis, and near Conception. Thefe, together with the others known in this kingdom, yield gold-dull. Sometimes, indeed, lumps of gold of confiderable magnitude are found ; and the hopes of difcovering thefe, animate many to work the mines. All the gold thus colleQed in Chili is brought up in the country, and fent to Lima to be coined, there being no mint in Chili ; and, by the accounts conllantly taken, it amounts, one year with another, to fix hundred thoufand dollars ; but that clandef- tinely fent by way of the Cordillera is laid to be nearly four hundred thoufand. Con- fequently, the whole muft be at' leaft a miUion. In the countries of Coquimbo and Guafco, mines of all kinds of metals are fo very common, that the whole earth feems wholly compofed of minerals ; and it is here thofe of copper are worked, and from them all Peru and the kingdom of Chili are furnilhed with that metal. But though this copper exceeds every thing ot the kind hitherto known, the mines are worked with great caution, and no more metal extracted than is fufficient to anfwer the ufual demand ; and other mines, though known to be equally rich, are left untouched. In exchange for the grain, fruits, provilions, and metals, which Chili fends to Peru, it receives iron, cloth, and linen made at Quito, hats, bays, though not many of the latter, there being manufaftures of the fame kind at Chili, fugar, cacao, fweetmeats, pickles, tobacco, oil, earthenware, and all kinds of European goods. A fmall com- merce is alfo carried on between the kingdom of Chili, Paraguay, and Buenos Ayres, of which the latter is the ftaple. The produfts of Paraguay, which indeed confift only in its herb and wax, are carried thither, then forwarded to Chili, whence the herb is exported to Peru. Large quantities of tallow are alfo fent to Mendoza for making of foap. In exchange for thefe commodities, Chili fends to Buenos Ayres linen and wool- len ftufts, fome of which are imported from Peru, and others manufaftured in the country : alfo ponchos, fugar, fnuft', wine, and brandy, the two laft the traders chiefly * Thefe Lavaderos are pits dug in the angles of ravines or trenches made by rain, and in which it is ima- gined there may be gold, and, in order to difcover the metal, a ftrcam of water is turned through it, and the earth brifkly fpread, that the gold may be carried down with the current, and depofited in the pits. buy 686 ULLOA's VOYAdE TO SOUTH AMERICA. buy at San Juan, As tiioft convenient for tranfportation. During the affiento for negroes, they are ufually brought to Chili from the faftory at Buenos Ayres, the way of Peru being attended with great inconveniences ; as in their journey from Panama, they take an opportunity of concealing themfelves among the farm-houfes : fo that, what with the great expence, and the numbers who die during their long rout, by the variety of climates, their purchafe muft confequently be very high. The home-commerce of Chili, or that carried on within itfelf, chiefly confifls in the provifions fent to Valdivia to the amount of ten thoufand dollars, which, as the de- ducted part of its remittance, are fent from Lima to Santiago for that purpofe. Valdi- via fiirnifhes the reft of the places with cedar. Chiloe purchafes from the other parts brandy, wine, honey, fugar, the Paraguay herb, fait, and Guinea-pepper ; and returns to Valparaifo and Conception feveral kinds of fine wood, in which the ifland abounds ; alfo woollen ftuffs of the country-manufafture, made into ponchos, cloaks, quilts, and the like ; together with hams, which, from the particular delicacy of the flavour, are in great requeft even in Peru, and dried pilchards, the bay and coaft of that ifland be- ing the only places in the South Sea where the fifli are caught. Coquimbo fends copper to Valparaifo ; for, though all parts of the Cordillera, to- wards Santiago and Conception, abound in mines of that metal, and particularly a place called Payen, where feveral were formerly worked, and where maffes of fifty or a hun- dred quintals of pure copper have been found, yet as thefe mines are now no longer worked, the whole country is under a neceflity of receiving their copper from the Co- quimbo and Guafco mines ; fending thither in exchange cordovan leather and foap, made at Mendoza, from whence it is carried to Santiago, and thence fold to difl^erent parts of the kingdom. Having thus confidered the trade of Chili in both particulars, I fliall next proceed to mention that carried on with the wild Indians, and this confifts in felling them hard- ware, as bits, fpurs, and edge tools ; alfo toys, and fome wine. All this is done by bar- ter ; for, though the countries they inhabit are not deftitute of gold, the Indians can- not be prevailed upon to open the -mines ; fo that the returns confift in ponchos, horn- ed cattle, horfes of their own breeding, and Indian children of both fexes, which are fold even by their own parents for fuch trifles ; and this particular kind of traffic they call Refcatar, ranfoming. But no Spaniard of any charafter will be concerned in fuch barbarous exchanges, being carried on only by the guafos, and the meaneft clafs of Spaniards fettled in Chili. Thefe boldly venture into the parts inhabited by the Indians, and addrefs themfelves to the heads of the feveral famihes. The Indians of Arauco, and thofe parrs, are not governed by caciques, or Curacas, like thofe of Peru, the only fubordination known among them being with regard to age, fo that the oldeft perfon of the family is refpected as its governor. The Spaniard begins his negociation with ofitring the chief of the family a cup of his wine. After this he difplays his wares, that the Indian may make choice of what beft pleafes him ; mentioning, at the fame time, the return he expefts. If they agree, the Spaniard makes him a prefent of a little wine ; and the Indian chief informs the community that they are at liberty to trade with that Spaniard as his friend. Relying on this protec- tion, the Spaniard goes from hut to hut, recommending himfelt at firft by giving the head of every family a tafte of his wine. After this they enter upon bufinefs, and the Indian having taken what he wanted, the trader goes away without receiving any equi- valent at that time, and vifits the other huts, as they lie difperfed all over the country, till he has difpofed of his ftock. He then returns to the cottage of the chief, calling on his cuftomers in his way, and acquainting them that he is on his return home. Upon ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. Upon this fummons, not one fails of bringing him to the chief's hut what had been agreed on. Here they take their leave of him, with all the appearance of a fmcere friendfhip, and the chief even orders fome Indians to efcort him to the frontiers, and affift him in driving the cattle he has received in exchange for his goods. Formerly, and even till the year 1724, thefe traders carried large quantif'es of wine, of which, as well as of all other inebriating liquors, the Indians are immoderately fond ; but on account of the tumults and wars that arofe from the intemperate ufe of fpiritu- ous liquors, this branch of trade has been fuppreffed, and no more wine allowed to be carried into the Indian territories than what fhall be judged neceffary to give the mafters of families a cup by way of compliment, and a very fmall quantity for trading. The happy efteds of this prohibition are felt on both fides ; the Spaniards live in fafety, and the Indians in peace and tranquillity. They are very fair dealers, never receding from what has been agreed on, and punftual in their payments. It is indeed furprifing, that a whole people, who are almoft ftrangers to government, and favage in their man- ners, fliould, amidft the uncontrouled gratification of the moft enormous vices, have fo delicate a fenfe of juftice, as to obferve it in the mofl irreproachable manner in their dealings. All the Indians of Arauco, Tucapel, and others inhabiting the more fouthern parts of the banks of the river Biobio, and alfo thofe who live near the Cordillera, have hitherto fruftrated all attempts made for reducing them under the Spanifh government. For in this boundlefs country, as it may be called, when ftrongly pufhed, they abandon their huts, and retire into the more dillant parts of the kingdom, where, being joined by other nations, they return in fuch numbers, that all refiftance would be temerity, and again take pofleffion of their former habitations. Thus Chili has always been ex- pofed to their infults ; and, if a very few only call for war againfl the Spaniards, the flame immediately fpreads, and their meafures are taken with fuch fecrecy, that the firft declaration of it is, the murder of thofe who happen to be among them, and the ra- vages of the neighbouring villages. Their firft ftep, when a war is agreed on, is, to give notice to the nations for aflembling ; and this they call Correa la Fletcha, to flioot the dart, the fummons being fent from village to village with the utmofl filence and rapidity. In thefe notices they fpecify the night when the irruption is to be made, and, though advice of it is fent to the Indians who refide in the Spanifh territories, nothing rranfpires : nor is there a fingle inftance, among all the Indians that have been taken up on fufpicion, that one ever made any difcovery. And as no great armaments are neceffary in this kind of war, their defigns continue impenetrable till the terrible exe- cutions withdraw the veil. The Indians of the feveral nations being affembled, a general is chofen, vdth the title of Toqui ; and when the night fixed on for executing their defigns arrives, the Indians who live among the Spaniards rife and maffacre them. After which, they di- vide themfelves into fmall parties, and deflroy the feats, farm-houfes, and villages, murdering all without the leafl regard to youth or age. Thefe parties afterwards unite, and, in a body, attack the larger fettlements of the Spaniards, befiege the forts, and commit every kind of hoftility ; and their vaft numbers, rather than any difcipline, have enabled them, on feveral occafions, to carry on their enterprizes with fuccefs, notwithftanding all the meafures taken by the Spanifh government to prevent them. For though muldtudes of them fall on thefe occafions, their army continually receives larger reinforcements. If at any time the Spaniards gain the fuperidrity, the Indians retire to the diftance of feveral leagues, where, after concealing themfelves a few days, they fuddenly fall on a different part from that where they were encamped, endeavour- ing 688 ulloa's voyage to south America. ing to carry the place by a fudden afTault, unlefs the commandant's vigilance has pro- vided againfl any fudden furprife ; when, by the advantage of the Spanifli difcipline, they are generally repulfed with great flaughter. Thefe Indian wars againfl the Spaniards ufually continue fome years, being of little detriment to the Indians ; for moft of their occupations, which confift in the culture of a fmall fpot of ground, and weaving ponchos and cloaks for apparel, are carried on by the women. Their huts are built in a day or two, and their food confifts of roots, maize, and other grain. War, therefore, is no impediment or lofs to them ; indeed, they rather confider it as a defirable occupation, their hours, at other times, being fpent in idlenefs or caroufals, in which they drink chica, a liquor common among them, and made from apples. The firft advances towards a treaty of peace with thefe Indians are generally made by the Spaniards ; and as foon as the propofals are agreed to, a congrefs is held, at which the governor, major-general of Chili, and the principal officers, the bilhop of Conception, and other perfons of eminence affifl. On the part of the Indians the toqui, or generaliffimo, and the captains of his army, as reprefentatives of the communities, repair to the congrefs. The lafl inroad made by thefe favage enemies was in the year 1720, during the government of Don Gabriel Cano, lieutenant-general of His Majefty's forces, who managed the war againfl them with fuch vigour and addrefs, that they were obliged to folicit a peace ; and their preliminaries were lb fubmiffive, that at a congrefs held in 1724, the peace was concluded, whereby they were left in pofTeffion of all the country fouth of the river Biobio ; and the Capitaines de Paz were fupprefled. Thefe were Spaniards refiding in the villages of the converted Indians, and by their exactions had been the principal caufe of the revolt. Befides the congrelfes held with thefe Indians, for concluding a treaty of peace, others are held on the arrival of a new prefident, and the fame ceremonies obferved in both ; fo that an account of the one will be fufficient to give a jufl idea of the other. On the holding a congrefs, the prefident fends notice to the frontier Indians of the day and place, whither he repairs with the above-mentioned perfons ; and on the part of the Indians, the heads of their feveral communities ; and both, for the greater fplen- dor of the interview, are accompanied by an efcort confifling of a certain number pre- vioufly agreed on. I'he prefident and his company lodge in tents, and the Indians encamp at a fmall diflance. The elders or chiefs of the neighbouring nations pay the firfl vifit to the prefident, who receives them very courteoufly, drinks their healths in wine, and himfelf gives them the glafs to do the like. This politenefs, with which they are highly pleafed, is fucceeded by a prefent of knives, fciflars, and difterent forts of toys, on which they place the greatefl value. The treaty of peace is then brought on the carpet, and the manner of obferving the feveral articles is fettled : after which they return to their camp, and the prefident i*eturns the vifit, carrying with him a quantity of wine fufficient for a moderate regale. Now all the chiefs of the other communities, who were not prefent at the firfl vifit, go in a body to pay their refpedls to the prefident. At the rifing of the congrefs, the prefident makes each a fmall prefent of wine, which the Indians liberally return in calves, oxen, horfes, and fowls. After thefe reciprocal tokens of friendflilp, both par- ties return to their refpe£tive habitations. In order to gain more effectually the hearts of thefe Indians, who, though in our efteem wretchedly poor, conceal the mod Itubborn pride, which can only be Ibftencd by compliments and favours, it is a maxim with the prefidents to admit to their table rhofe who are apparently of the befl difpolitions, and during the three or four days of the ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. 689 the congrefs, neglefts no means of ingratiating himfelf with the whole body. On thefe occafions a kind of fair is held at both camps, great numbers of Spaniards repairing thither with fuch goods as they know will pleafe the Indians, w^ho alio come with their ponchos and cattle. Both parties deal by exchange, and never fail of felling their whole flocks ; and of obferving in their dealings the moft exaci candour and regularity, as a fpecimen in which all future commerce is to be conducted. Though thefe Indians have fhewn fuch a determined averfion to fubmitting to the Spanifh monarchs, their behaviour has been very different to the miffionaries, vi'hom they voluntarily permitted to come among them ; and many have even fhewed the greateft joy at being baptized. But it is extremely difficult to prevail on them to quit their free manner of Hving ; which being produftive of vice and favagenefs, prepoifeffes the mind againfl the precepts of the Chriftian religion. Before the war of the year 1723, the miffionaries, by their indefatigable zeal, had formed feveral villages, hoping by that means to induce their converts to pradife the doftrines of the Chriftian faith. Thefe villages were called St. Chriftopher, Santa Fe, Santa Juana, St. Pedro, and La Mocha, all of them being under the infpeftion of the Jefuits. The chaplains alfo of the forts on the frontiers had an additional falary for inflruding a certain number of Indians. But on that general infurreftion, their innate favagenefs returned, all thefe converts abandoned the miffionaries, and joined their countrymen. On the re-eflabhfhment of the peace, they again folicited the miffionaries to come among them ; and fome communities have been fince formed ; but they are far fhort of their former promifmg Hate, it being very difficult to bring even this fmall number to embrace a focial life. Amidfl all the fanguinary rage of thefe Indians in their hoftilities againfl the Spaniards, they generally fpare the white women, carrying them to their huts, and ufmg them as their own. And hence it is, that many Indians of thofe nations have the complexions of the Spaniards born in that country. In time of peace many of them come into the Spaniffi territories, hiring themfelves for a certain time to work at the farm houfes, and at the expiration of the term return home, after laying out their wages in the purchafe of fuch goods as are valued in their country. All of them, both men and women, wear the poncho and manta, which they weave from wool, and though it cannot be properly called a drefs, it is abundantly fufficient for decency ; whereas the Indians it a greater diflance from the Spaniffi frontiers, as thofe who inhabit the countries fouth of Valdivia, and the Chonos who live on the continent near Chiioe, ufe no fort of apparel*. The Indians of Arauco, Tucapel, and other tribes near the river Biobio, take great delight in riding, and their armies have fome bodies of horfe. Their weapons are large fpears, javelins, &c. in the ufe of which they are very dextrous. CHAP. X. — Voyage from Conception to the IJland of Juan Femandes ; and from thence to Valparaifo. THE ffiips being come to an anchor in the port of Talcaguana, we waited on Don Pedro de Mendinueta, at the city of Conception, who informed us that the commodore Don Jofeph Pizarro, together with the land and fea officers, were arrived at Santiago, and that he intended to fet out for Valparaifo, in order to hoift his Hag on board the Efperanza, and take upon him the command of that fquadron : on receiving this inteU * Thefe Indians now drefa like the former. A, VOL. XIV. 4 T ligence, 690 CLLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. ligence, and ha\-ing no orders to continue at Conception, we put to fea on the fixth of February, and lleering for the place of our deftination, made, on the ::oth, the ifland De Tierra de Juan Femandes, and at half an hour after ten, as we were plying to windward along the coaft, and ftanding towards the ifland which then bore two leagues well from us, we faw on the top of one of the mounrains a bright light, which furprifed us the more, as on the following dav we faw no traces ot any ihip's being in the port fmce we left it. I had a clear view of it from the inftant it began, and obferved that at firll it was very finall, and increafed, fo as to form a flame like that of a flambeau. The full vigour of its light lalled about three or four minutes, when it diminilhed in the fame gradual manner it had increafed. It did not appear again all the next night, nor had we during the whole time we were at anchor in the port, any \-iew of fuch a phaenome- non. We fent fome of our people on fliore to examine all the mountains, and other parts of the iiland, and they fpent feveral nights on that and the adjacent mountains, but could not dilcover the leail veftige of any fire. As I knew the iiland to be abfo- lutely deilitute, the fanguine colour of the flame inclined me to think there might be fome volcano ; but ha\Tng never feen any thing of the kind before, nor heard from others that there was ever any eruption, I was far from being tenacious of mv opinion. We had indeed all our conjec'tures ; but the ditficulty was not cleared up till my fifth and lall vo>"age to this ifland, when Don Jofeph Pizarro fent fome people on Ihore to take an accurate furvey of this place, and the ground was found to be burnt, full of Allures and hot, which verified my firft opinion of a volcano. On the 2 III, after coalling along this ifland, we continued our courfe for Valparaifo, where our little fquadron came to an anchor on the 2 jth, and were the more pleafed, as •we found there the prefident of Santiago, Don Joieph Manfo, and our commodore ; and in the harbour, befides the Callao fleet, three French fliips, called the Louis Eraf- me, Notre Dame de la Delivrance, and the Lys, which had been freighted by four merchants as regifter ihips : and Valparailo was the firft port they had touched at, for vending their cargoes. From feveral obfervations made in this harbour by Don George Juan, in the lad voy- age of 1 744, its latitude appears to be 33' 02' 36" 30'", and Father Feuillee fettled its its longitude at 304'' 1 1 45" from the meridian of Teneriff. This to\\Ti was at firft very mean, conlVfting only of a few warehoufes built by the inhabitants of Santiago for la^^ng up their goods rill fliipped ofl' for Callao, the harbour of Valparaifo being the nearell port to that citv, from which it is only twenty leagues diftant, though the na- tives will have it to be more. The only inhabitants at that rime were the few fervants left by their refpecbve mafters for taking care of the warehoufes, and managing their mercantile affairs. But in procefs of time, the merchants themfelves, together with feveral other families, removed from Santiago, in order to be more conveniently fitu- ated for trade ; fmce which it has gradually increafed, fo that at prefent it is both large and populous ; and would be ftill larger were it not for its inconvenient fituation, ftand- ing fo near the foot of a mountain, that a great part of the houfes are built on its accli- vity, or in its breaches. The broadeft and moft convenient part is that along the coaft, but this is ver>- unpleafant in winter, being fo expofed to the north winds, that the waves beat againil the walls of the houfes, fome of which are built of unbumt bricks, fome of chalk and pebbles, and others of bajareques. Valparaifo, befides its parilh-church, has a convent of Francifcans, and another of Auguftines; but ver)- few religious, and the churches belonging to them fmall and mean. It is inhabited by families of Spaniards, and Calls, both Mulattoes and Melli- zos. In its neighbourhood are feveral \-illages, and the great number of farm-houfes I o give ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 691 give the country a cheerful appearance. Here is a military governor nominated by the King, who ha\Tng the command of the garrifons in the feveral ports, and of the militia of the place and its dependencies, is to take care that they are properly difdplined. The proximity of this port to Santiago has drawn hither all the commerce formerly carried on at that dvy. To this it owes its foundation, increafe, and prefent prof{>erit)-. At prefent all the Callao fhips which carry on the commerce between the two kingdoms come hither. The cargoes they bring are indeed but finall, confifling only of the goods already mentioned, as not produced in Chili. But in this pon they take in wheat, tallow, cordovan leather, cordage, and dried fruits, and with thefe return to Callao ; and a (hip has been known to make three voyages in one fummer, namely, between November and June, during which internal the droves of mules and carriages from all the farm-houies in thejurifdiction of Santiago bring frefli fupplies to the warehoufes, that trade is carried on both by land and fea. The mailers of fhips, who generally rtfide at Lima or Callao, enter into partnerfliip with the landed gentlemen of Chili, that the cargo of every fliip generally belongs in part to the mafter ; though fome fliips are freighted, and, if the loading be wheat, greatly augments its value ; for the fanega cofts here only ten or twelve rials, or two dollars, and the freight is from twelve nals to two piafters. An- other circumflance which raifes the price of wheat at Callao, where it is fold for twentv- four or thirn- rials, is, that the fanega is there only five arobas and five pounds, whereas at Chili the fanega is fix arobas and fix pounds. This commerce being carried on oidy in fummer, that feafon may be termed the feir of Valparaifo ; but on the approach of winter the place becomes as remarkably defobte, the crowd of traders repairing to Santiago, thofe only continuing at Valparailb who can- not afford to remove. Valparaifo is abundantly fupplied with pro\ifions from Santiago, and other places in its neighbourhood ; but fhips do not \-icrual here fo cheap as at Conception. The fruits cannot be viewed without admiration, both with regard to their beiuty and fize, parti- cularly a fort of apples called Quillota, being brought from that place ; they prodigioufly exceed the largefl in Spain, and, befides their exquifite flavour, are fo lufcious that thev melt in the mouth. Among the feveral kinds of game, there is here fuch a plenty of partridges in their feafon, which begins at March and lafts feveral fucceeding months, that the Santiago muleteers knock them down with flicks without going out of the road, and bring great numbers of them to Valparaifo. But few of thefe or any other birds are feen near the town. It is the fame thing with regard to nfh*, very little being to be caught either in the harbour or along the coafl, in comparifon of what may be ^en in the other parts. The coaft of Valparaifo forms a bay, lying north-eafl and fouth-weft, three leagues in length, and having two capes, called Concon, and Valparaifo. In the fouth-wefl part of this bay is the harbour, of a convenient fize, and nmning above a league farther up the country. The bottom is a firm tenacious mud. At the diflance of a cable's length and a half from the fhore, is from fourteen to fixteen fathom water, which increafes in depth proportional to the diflance^ that at the diflance of half a league there is thirty-fix or to.ty fathom. The harbour is ever}- where free from rocks and fhoals, except to the north-eafl of the breach De los Angeles, where, about a cable's length or two from the land is a rock, which mull be the more carefully avoided, as it never appears above water, but fometimes has not a depth furtident for a fhip of any burden to pafs over it. The • They take their fiflj by fliooting a barbed arrow into them, which has a long Lght (haft, that fu&en the fifh not to fink after it is wouaded. A . 4 T 2 courfe 692 ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. courfe into this harbour is to keep near the point of Valparaifo, within a quarter of a league from the fhore, where there is twenty, eighteen, and fixteen fathoms water. After getting round the point, you muft ftand nearer to the fhore, in order to avoid a bank which lies thereabouts ; not that it can be attended with any danger ; for the fide of it is fo bold, that if the fhip Ihould touch it little damage could enfue. This bank is always above water, and there is a necelTity for palTing fo near it, in order to keep to windward, as otherwife it would be difficult to fetch the harbour. Regard muft alfo be had to the time proper for entering the port of Valparaifo ; for it is by no means proper to attempt it in the morning, as the wind, though blowing frefli without, does not then extend fo far into the bay, and thus the fhip, by having very little way, and confequently not anfwering her helm, might drive upon the bank ; and to let go your anchor in fifty fathom water, which is the depth clofe to the fand, will be very incon- venient. The common method, therefore, is to keep in the offing till about noon, or ibmething after, when the wind ufually continues to the bottom of the harbour, and then, by obferving the above-mentioned rules, the fliip will fall into her ftation without any difficulty ; or you may run into the bay, and there come to an anchor till the day following, and then weigh early and go in with the land-breeze, here called Concon, as blowing from that point ; and this breeze may be depended on every day at a certain hour, except during the time of the north winds, which caufe fome alteration in it. The fafeft method of mooring fliips is lying one anchor on the fhore towards the fouth- fouth-weft, and another in the channel towards the north-north-weft. The former muft be well fecured, as the refource againft the fouth and fouth-weft winds ; for though they come over the land, they are often fo violent, and the fhore of the harbour fo Hoping, that the fhips would otherwife drive. As foon as the north winds fet in, which happens in the months of April and May, the vefTels in the harbour are expofed to their whole violence, which alfo caufes a very high fea. In this exigence, the whole fecurity of the fhips depends on the anchor and cable to- wards the north-north-eaft, it will therefore be very proper to lay another in the fame direc- tion ; for if it fhould give way, it would be impoffible to hinder the fhip from ftriking on the rocks near the fhore. The only favourable circumftance here is, that the bottom being very firm, and rifing towards the fhore, the anchor has good hold, and confe- quently the whole depends on the ftrength of the cable. CHAP. XL — Voyage from Valparaifo to Callao : — fecond Return to Quito to finifh the Obfervatiom : — third Journey to Lima, in order to return to Spain by the luay of Cape Horn. THE fervice our fquadron was employed on being that of cruizing in thofe feas, in queft of the enemy as long as it fhould be thought rcquihte, the commodore, without flaying any longer than was abfolutely neceifary, came on board, and we immediately put to fea, and feveral times vifited the iflands of Juan Fernandes, till the 24th of June 1743, when we fliaped our courfe for Callao, which port we entered on the 6th of July. The day following the commodore and principal officers went on fhore, and were re- ceived by Don Jofeph de Llamas, general of the forces in Peru, and government of Callao ; who, on account of the iirft employment, refides at Lima, but was come to Callao to compliment the commodore. He attended him to Lima, and introduced him to the viceroy, who exprelfed his great fatisfatlion at his fafe arrival after fuch long ex- pedations. He was alfo met on the road by the principal perfons of the city. I After ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. 693 After taking our departure from the illand De Tierra de Juan Fernandes, we fteered the three firft days north-north-eaft, and north-eail:, one quarter northernly, ha\'ing freih gales at weft, and a heav-y fea from the fouth-weft. When we came into the latitude of 28^ 30' we fteered north, fix or feven degrees eafterly, till the third day at nine in the morning, when being in the latitude of 16^ 28' we made the land on the coaft of Chala ; and the day follo\ving, being the 4th, the ifland of Sangallan, which at nooa bore eaft-north-eaft diftance fix leagues. We then coafted along the fliore, and on the 5th at noon, we faw the ifle of Afia, bearing eaft-north-eaft fix leagues diftant j and on the 6th as before-mentioned, the fquadron came to an anchor at half an hour after one in the afternoon, in Callao harbour. Hence it appears, that till we were in the latitude of 28° 30', the wind was at fouth- weft, which agrees with my obfervations, mentioned Chap. III. relating to this fea ; and if no other circumftance concurred to verify them, it muft be imputed to the feafon of the year, it being the beginning of winter when we returned to Callao. But as during the firft three days, the ftrength of the wind had driven us near the coaft, fo from the latitude we found it farther to the fouth ; bemeen twenty-five and twent\--one, began to incline towards the fouth-eaft, and from the latitude of twenty^ degrees, when we found ourfelves near the land, till our arrival at Callao, we had the wiud fouth- fouth-eaft, and eaft-fouth-eaft. It was the fame with regard to the fea coming from the fouth-weft, for it gradually diminilhed as we approached the coaft ; fo that from twenty-five degrees it was not at all troublefome, and after we were paft twenty-one degrees, became imperceptible. But it was very different with regard to the current, which, from the parallel of twenty or twenty-one degrees, we perceived to fet towards the north-weft, parallel to the direction of the coaft, and became much more fenfible after we had fight of the land, its velocity increafmg as latitude decreafed. I would recommend two precautions to be ufed in the voyage from Chili to Callao. The firft is not to make the land in the bay of Arica, the many eddies of the current there rendering it very difficult to get again clear of the coaft ; which muft be done by keeping along ftiore ; as by ftanding out to fea, you will be in danger of not reaching the harbour ; for the current fetting north-weft, on ftanding in for the land, you will probablv find yourfelf to lee\%"ard of the harbour ; in which cafe it will be far from eafy to work up againft the wind and ftrong current. The fecond flows from the former, and is to make the land fomewhere between Nafca and Sangallan, as the coaft may be then kept at a proper diftance, and the danger of falling to leeward of the port avoided ; a misfortune which has happened to many, who have been carried far- ther out than thev expected ; fo that after a long look-out for land, they find themfelves on its firft appearance to leeward of their port. In winter, efpecially, too much care cannot be taken, as from the continual thick- nefs of the atmolphere, obfervations cannot be made fo often as requifite ; fometimes not for five or fix days fucceffively ; at the fame time the fight of land is entirely inter- cepted by the denfity of the fog. This we experienced ; for after we were anchored in Callao at only a quarter of a league diftant from the land, the people on the fliore had no fight of the (hips ; and it was owing to our being very near the coaft that we made the harbour ; for had we been at a diftance, we ftiould have been far to leeward, when the weather cleared up. On the 25th of June, being the fecond day after our departure from the ifland De Tierra de Juan Fernandes, we faw a meteor like that we had before feen at Quito, namely, a globe of fire, or large globe of inflammable exhalations. It firft appeared in the weft, at half an hour after three in the mornme;, and moved with great velocity for 694 ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. for a confiderable fpace towards the eaft, as if carried by the wind. The light ot this meteor was fuch, that the watch on the quarter-deck could plainly diflinguifh every perfon on the fore-caftle ; and both were not a little terrified. The phsenomenon lafted between three and four minutes, and half an hour after we felt two violent fhocks, at an intei-val of about a minute and a half betwixt them, fo that all apprehended the fhip had ftruck on fonie ftioal ; but on refleftion, we concluded it to be the effeO; of an earthquake. The fquadron being fafely arrived at Callao, with the commander-in-chief of the South Sea, a title given to Don Jofeph Pizarro, and a fufficient number of officers of fuch diftinguiihed zeal and experience, that they might well fupply our place without detriment to the fervice ; and at the fame time, we being willing to put the finifhing hand to our principal work, we afked the viceroy's leave to return to Quito ; but his excellency was defirous that we fhould firft complete fome particulars he had committed to our care. Accordingly we applied ourfelves afliduoufly to our work ; and Don George Juan, having finifhed his part firft, left Callao on the 14th of November, propofmg to make all the necefiary preparatives againft my arrival, that the proper obfervations might be made without delay. On the 27th of January 1744, I reached Quito, where I found that Don George Juan had, by his extraordinary care, nearly finifhed every thing necelTary for the continuation of our work ; and whilft the remainder was per- forming, we had an opportunity, in conjundtion with M. Godin, the only French academician now remaining in this province, of obferving the comet which appeared this year. Though the comet might have been feen on the 2d and 3d of February, the atmof- phere of Quito being fo unfavourable to aftronomical obfervations on account of the clouds, it was the 6th before we could obfei ve it. The comet was then near the weft- ern part of the horizon, and being behind the mountain of Pichincha, its altitude concealed it from our fight, fo that we could not obferve it after feven or eight at night. On the 6th, at feven in the evening, we found its altitude above the horizon to be fifteen degrees, and its azimuth from the north, feventy-two degrees ; M. Godin and Don George Juan judged its nucleus to be oblong, to me it appeared perfeftly circular ; but we all agreed that it was larger than Jupiter. The tail, which was dif- cerned through fome light clouds, feemed to extend two degrees, and to form with the vertical circle, an angle of near thirty degrees. On the 7th, at eight minutes after feven in the evening, on repeating our obferva- tions, we found its altitude to be 11° 11', and its azimuth from the north 72" 45'. From this fecond obfervarion, which we confidered as more accurate than the former, having made proper allowances for refraction, we concluded tnat the right afcenfion of the comet was 332° 50', and that its northern declination was 20^ 5'. Whence we inferred, that its trajedlory was the fame with that obferved in 1681 by Caffini, and by Tycho Brahc in 1572, and that in all probability, it was the fame; for though the periods do not agree, it might have appeared twice in the firft interval. After this we were hindered from profecuting our obfervations by the cloudinefs of the nights ; and fome days afterwards we were aifured by feveral, that they had feen it in the morning. As all the triangles on the north fide from Pambamarca to the place where M. Godin had made his fecond aftronomical obfervations were not completed, and the inftrument conftruded for that purpofe kept in readinefs, we made that our firft talk ; M. Godin not having then gone through them all. After finifhing every thing here, we repaired on the 2 2d of March to the obfervatory De Pueblo Viejo de JNlira, where, meeting with the ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 695 the fame difficulties from the thicknefs of the atmofphere as we had before experi- enced during the whole courfe of our operations, we were obhged to continue there till the 2 2d of May, when, being fatisfied with the accuracy of the obfervations made during this long interval, we returned to Quito, with the pleafmg expeftation, that our perfeverance againfl the conftant difficulties we met with from the clouds was at lafl come to a period ; and that we fhould now reft from the toils and hardfhips of living on frozen defarts ; a repofe the more pleafmg, as it was accompanied with a confcioufaefs that no inconveniences had occafioned us to omit the leaft part of our duty. During our ftay at Mira, Don George Juan applied himfelf to obferve the variation of the magnetic needle, and by four obfervations nearly coincident, he concluded to be nearly 8" 47' eafterly. We now began to deliberate on our return upon the favourable opportunity of the above-mentioned French fhips, which were preparing to fail for Spain ; as we fhould then pafs round Cape Horn, and not only complete from our own experience, an account of the South Sea, but be enabled to make obfervations on the whole courfe. Another, and indeed our principal motive was, the fafety of our papers, concluding there could be no danger in a neutral fhip, as we then imagined thofe to be. The concurrence of fo many advantages immediately determined us ; and leaving Quito we fet out for Lima, where I arrived firft, Don George Juan having fome days been detained at Guayaquil by a freffi commiffion by the viceroy. Thele fhips, not failing fo foon as expelled, I employed the interval in drawing up an extrafl: of all interefting obfervations and remarks, and prefenting it to the viceroy, who was pleafed to order the papers to be preferved in the fecretary's office, that if any misfortune fhould hap- pen to us in the voyage, our fovereign might not be totally difappointed in his generous views of promoting the ufeful fciences of geography and navigation. While we were employed in finifhing our obfervations at Mira, the univerfity of Lima gave a remarkable teftimony of their fenfe of M. Godin's eminent talents, by choofmg him profeffor of mathematics, in the room of Don Pedro de Peralta, deceafed; which he accepted of with the greater fatisfadion, as fome indifpenfable affairs of his company would not permit him to gratify his defires of returning to Europe. Accord- ingly he propofed to fpend this interval in making frefh obfervations and experiments, concluding that the atmofphere of Lima, during the fummer-feafon, would be more favourable to his defigns than that of Quito or the mountains. On his arrival at that city, the viceroy, who was no ftranger to his great abilities, and pleafed with the prudent choice of the univerfity, conferred on him, at the fame time of his being in- verted with the profefforfhip, the port of cofmographer to His Majefty ; with other ad- vantages annexed to it. But this gentleman was far from propofmg to make any longer ftay there than what thefe afiairs required ; no advantages or honours being fufficient to make him forget the obligations he was under of giving an account of his voyage and obfervations to his fovereign and the academy, efpecially as being the eldeft of the three academicians ; fo that all the teftimonies of efteem could not fupprefs his uneafinefs at the delay. M. de Juffieu, though with the fame regret as the former, determined to continue fome time at Quito, with M. Hugot, till he faw what turn the war would take, that he might efcipe, in his return to Europe, thofe dangers then fo common at fea. M. Verguin chofe to go by the way of Panama: and the others, except the two who died in the country, one at Cayambe and Cuenca, were difperfed ; one fettling in Quito. 696 ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. Quito. Thus, the whole French company feparated : and it mufl: be confidered as a fingular happinefs that, after fuch a fcene of labours, hardfliips, and dangers, in fuch a variety of climates, and amidfl: fuch inhofpitable defarts and precipices, our operations were accurately performed : and we capable of entering on a new fcene of dangers and difficulties, which it was our fortune to experience before we were in a condition of prefenting this work to the public. ( 697 ) VOYAGES AND TRAVELS INTO BRAZIL. A PARTICULAR ACCOUNT OF ALL THE REMARKABLE PASSAGES THAT HAPPENED DURING THE author's stay OF NIXE YEARS IN BRAZIL ; Efpecially in relation to the Revolt of the Portuguefe, and the inteftine War carried on there from 1640 to 1649. By Mr. John Nieohoff. * I ADVERTISEMENT TO THE READER. T is about nineteen years fince my brother, John NieuhofF, juft before his fecond voyage into the Indies, prefented me with his defcription of China, and certain draughts he had made during his embafly in that empire, which, being afterwards pub- Hfhed, were foon after tranflated into fix feveral languages. My brother had, before that time, not only been in Brazil, and feveral other places in thofe parts, but alfo fmce that time, has had the opportunity of travelling through a great part of Afia, till 1671, when, returning into Holland, he brought along with him all his papers, obfervations, and draughts, he had collecled during his voyages ; which, though much coveted by all curious perfons, yet for fome reafons befl known to himfelf, he did not think fit to commit to public view. But, after his deceafe, confidering with myfelf that fuch ufeful colledlions ought not to be buried in oblivion, I thought fit to publifh them for the public good. As thofe things which he relates of the revolt of the Portuguefe in Brazil, are extracted verbatim out of the records kept during my brother's abode of nine years in Brazil, under the government of the lords, Henry Hamel, Peter Bas, and Adrian Bulleilrate, and authentic letters ; fo the truth thereof admits not of the leaft doubt from unbiaffed perfons. The vaft countries through which my brother travelled in his life-time, as Brazil, part of Perfia, Malabar, Madura, Coromandel, Amboyna, Ceylon, Malacca, Sumatra, Java, Tagowan, and part of China, befides many iflands, could not in the leaft infeft him with that difeafe, fo incident to travellers, to relate fables inftead of hiftories, it having been his conftant practice to adhere mofl religioufly in all his treatifgs to the naked truth, without the leaft difguife. His laft voyage to the ifle of Madagafcar, where he was loft, I have taken partly out of his own letters, partly out of the journal of Captain Reinard Ciaefon, which he brought along with him from thence. * Churchill's Coll. Vol. II. VOL. XIV. 4 u As 698 nieuhoff's brazil. As to his perfon, I will only add thus much : he was born at Uflen, in the earldom of Benthem, (where his father, brother, and brother-in-law, were all three Burgo- mafters) of a good family, the 2 2d of July 161 8. He was a comely perfon, of a good underftanding, good humoured, and agreeable in converfation ; a great admirer of poefy, drawing, and mufic : as he delighted in travelling, fo he was thereby be- come mafter of divers languages : in what ftation he lived during his abode in Brazil, and the Eaft Indies, will beft appear by the two following treatifes.* Henry Nieuhoff. VOYAGES AND TRAVELS INTO BRAZIL. IN the year 1 640, I entered into the fervice of the Weft India company, and on the 24th of Oftober went in the quality of merchant-fupercargo, aboard the fhip called the Roebuck, of twenty-eight guns and one hundred and thirty men, commanded by Nicholas Selles of Durkendam. We fet fail out of the Texel the fame day, in com- pany of feveral other veflels bound for France, Spain, and the Streights ; and purfued our voyage the 28th, with a favourable gale, through the channel betwixt France and England. On the 29th we were overtaken with a moft violent tempeft, which obliged us to take in all our great fails : it continued from morning to night, when the fury of the winds being fomewhat allayed, we found that we had efcaped without any confiderable damage ; but the fea continued very turbulent all that night. The next day following, our feamen catched a wood-fnipe, a wild pigeon, and feveral other fmall birds, which were forced into the fea by the violence of the ftorm. On the 31ft we found ourfelves under the forty-fifth degree of northern latitude. The next morning, being the firft of November, fome of our feamen catched a fea-hog, by means of a harpoon : it was fo big, that four men could fcarce lift it into the fhip. Its tafte was not very agreeable, but rankifh, which was the reafon our men did not catch any more of them, though they fwam in vaft numbers round about our vefTel. By fun-fet, the wind beginning to increafe, we parted from the other fliips bound for Spain and the Streights, which were not feparated from us in the laft ftorm, fteering our courfe fouth-weft. The 2d and 3d it blew very hard, with thunder and lightning, fo that we were forced to take in all our great fails, and the fhip being very leaky ever fmce the laft tempeft, to ply the pump with all our might. The 4th we found ourfelves under 40° 30', when, about midnight, the wind increafed with fo much violence, that the air which furrounded us appeared no otherwife than one continual fire, occafioned by the lightning, which fcarce ever ceafed all that night. During this calamity we perceived certain fmall fires or lights, fixed to the maft : they are called Peaceable's Fires by the feamen. Thefe fires are fuppofed to be certain fulphureous vapours, forced by the violence of the winds from the fhorc into the fea, where, being lightened by the violent agitation of the air, they burn till their oily ^ The Voyage to the Eaft Indies is omitted. I fubftance nieuhoff's brazil. 699 fubftance be confumed. The feamen look upon them as a good omen, that the florm is going to abate ; which proved true in efFeft, the fury of the winds beginning to allay from that time ; and we had the good fortune to difcover two leaks near our forecaftle, which elfe might have proved of dangerous confequence. The 5th, we pafTed the Barrels, under the thirty-ninth degree ; where, according to an ancient cultom, every one, of what quality or degree foever, that has not pafled there before, is obliged to be baptifed, or redeem himfelf from it. He that is to be baptifed, has a rope tied round his middle, wherewith he is drawn up to the very top of the bowfprit, and from thence three times fucceffively tumbled into the water. There were fome who looked very blank upon the matter, but others went cheerfully about it, and for a meafure of Spanifh wine fufFered themfelves to be rebaptifed for the mafter and the merchant. But this cuflom is abolilhed of late years, by fpecial orders from the governors of the company, to avoid broils and quarrels, which ufed often to arife upon this occafion. The 6th, as we were fleering our courfe fouth-fouth-weft, with a frefh gale, we defcried two veflels, making all the fail they could towards us, whom we fuppofed to be Turkifli pirates (as indeed they proved afterwards) ; it was refolved to defend us till the utmoft extremity. Accordingly orders were given to clear every thing upon the deck, and to furnifh the feamen with mufquets, hangers, pikes, and other fuch like weapons. Every one having taken his ftation, we put up the bloody flag, and ex- pefted their coming under the found of our trumpets. The mafter of the fhip, being all that time very ill of fome wounds he had received formerly, which were now broken up afrefh ; and the comniiflTary, Francis Zweers, not being in a condition, by reafon of his great age, to remain upon deck, I was fain to undertake the whole management of the fhip, and encouraged them to fight bravely for their lives and liberty, ordering them not to fire at all, till they were in their full reach, they being much better manned than we. About noon we faw the Turks make up towards us, with orange-coloured flags, which however they foon after changed for the bloody flags, and the biggeft of them faluted us with two cannon-fhot out of his forecaftle, without doing us the leaft harm, but the fecond time almoft fhot our foremaft in pieces. In the mean-while we were come fo near to one another, that we fent them a good broadfide into their fhip, which the Turks repaid us immediately ; but it was not long before we obferved the biggeft of the two had received a fhot betwixt wind and water, which made her keep at fome farther diftance, till fhe had repaired her damage, which gave me opportunity to en- courage our people with words, and a good proportion of wine, which they mixed with fome gunpowder ; and I, to pleafe them, followed their example. By this time they returned both to the charge, and faluted us fo fiercely with their cannon and fmall fhot, that they took away the roof of our great cabin, and did us fome damage in our rigging. I then changed my fcymetar for a mufquet, and dif- charged continually upon the enemy, and I found myfelf fore feveral weeks after, bv the hurt I received from a mufquet of one that ftood hard by me, which being by a cannon-ball forced out of his hands againfl my body, I fell down, ftretched all along upon the deck, without fenfe or motion ; but having after fome time recovered myfelf, I returned to my port. I then perceived the captain of the biggeft Turkifh fhip with a turbant on his head, in the ftern, encouraging his men, which made me order thofe about me to aim at him with their fmall fiiot, which, as I fuppofe, fucceeded according to our hopes, it being not long before we loft fight of him. Notwithftanding this, the heat of the fight increafed on both fides, many broadfides pafTing betwixt us, 4 T.r 2 accom- 70O NIEUHOFP S BRAZIL. accompanied with moft dreadful outcries and lamentations of the wounded on both fides. However, the Turks durft not attempt to board us ; whether it were that they thought us better manned than really we were, or that they feared we would fet fire to the fhip, which we threatened we would, fhewing them a match ready for that purpofe. They anfwered us in Dutch, that they would not part with us upon thofe terms ; yet was it not long before we faw them make away from us, having received many fhots through their (hips ; and we, with a brifk gale, made all the Ml we could to be rid of thefe unwelcome guefls, fleering a quite different courfe, which, with the advantage of the darknefs of the night, brought us quite out of fight of them by next morning. We gave thanks to God for his having delivered us from the danger of flavery, and crowning our endeavours with fuccefs againfl an enemy much ffronger than us, the biggeft of them carrying twenty-four guns, and the other two ; whereas we had no more than eighteen, befides that they were much better manned than we. After having taken a view of our fiiip, and found it found under water, we betook ourfelves to repair the damage we had received during the fight ; but whilfl we were bufy in this work, we were on the 7th furprifed by fo violent a ftorm, that we were forced to take in all our fails. This put us to a great nonplus, but by good fortune the ftorm blew foon over, when orders were given to give an allowance of three pounds and a half of bifcuit per week to the feamen, all our other bread being become mufty by that time. The loth we found ourfelves under the thirty-ninth degree and thirty minutes, about twenty leagues off of the Canary Iflands ; here we difcovered the pike of Teneriit, being two leagues and a half high, and accounted the higheft mountain in the world. It may be difcovered at fixty leagues diftance from the fliore. Thus we continued our voyage till the i4th, without any memorable accident, when we paffed the tropic of Cancer. About noon we were overtaken by another ftorm, which made us take in mofl of our great fails, for fear of the worft, but it lafled not long. This tradt of the fea is called by the Dutch, the Kroos Sea ; by the Portuguefe, Mar del Aragaco (or Largaco, or Suargaco), i. e. the Sea of Ducks-meat, becaufc here- abouts, viz. from the eighteenth to the thirtieth degree, or as fome will have it, from the twentieth to the twenty-fecond and twenty-third degree of northern latitude, it is found in great quantity, and carried along with the ftream : its leaves are of a pale green colour, like that of parrots, fmall, thin, and carved at the end. It bears berries of the fame colour, about the bignefs of a pepper-corn, but are quite hollow, without any feed within or tafte. It is fometimes fo clofely twilled together, that it flops a fhip in its full courfe ; though we had the good fortune to pafs through it without much difficulty, being then about four hundred leagues from the coall of Afric, where are no iflands nor anchorage. It may be pickled with fait and pepper, and ufcd like as we do capers, being accounted a good remedy againfl the gravel. It is generally found without roots, having only a few thin fprouts, which, as it is fuppoled, take root in the fandy grounds of the fea ; though others are of opinion, that it is carried by the violence of the flream from the iflands into the fea. The 18th, one of our fliip's crew died, who was the next day thrown overboard, at which time I obferved, what indeed I had heard often before, that the dead carcaffes always float with their heads to the eafl at fea. The 22d we were overtaken by another tempefl, called Travado, which with horri- ble thunder and lightning furprifes the fliips fo fuddenly, that they have fcarce leifure to take in their fails, and fometimes returns three times in an hour. We catched here abundance of fifh, fuch as Bonytes of ten feet long, and Korets, and a great lamprey, which we had enough to do to bring aboard ; we only took out the brains, being looked nieuhoff's brazil. 701 looked upon as a fovereign remedy againfl the ftone in the bladder, the flefh being of an oily tafte. The 24th we favv great quantities of fniall birds about our veffel, and catched one not unlike a crane, but fomewhat fmaller, it being a very fair day. The 26th, being under the fifth degree forty-feven minutes, we were fo becalmed that we could not perceive the fliip to move, and fpent our time in catching of iifli, of which we had fuch plenty, that we chofe only the bell for our eating ; among the reft we met with a fifli called the king's-fifli : for by reafon of the impenetrable depth of the fea in this place, the waters are fo clear and tranfparent in ftil! weather, that you may fee the filh in vafl numbers fwimming near two feet deep ; fo that you need but faften a crooked nail or any thing elfe like a hook to a ftring, and hanging it in the fea, you may catch as many filh as you pleafe. This calm was followed by a moil violent ftorm of rain. The 30th we found ourfelves under the fourth degree forty-one minutes, where we faw abundance of flying-fifh. The 3d of December we came under the firft degree thirty minutes, where we met with millions of fifli, and did catch as many as we thought fit : Ibme we put in fait, others we rubbed in the belly with pepper and fait, and hung them up by the tail in the fun. The 4th, by break of day, being very clear weather, we faw the ifland of St. Paulo, as it is called by the Portuguefe, which at a diftance reprefents a fail, which as you approach-nearer to it, proves five high rocks. About noon we found ourfelves at fifty- three minutes ot northern latitude, taking our courfe five leagues to the well. Here at feveral times we catched fome fea-gulls ; thofe birds make a fliew as if they would bite you, but remain immoveable in the place, till they are caught or killed. The 5th, about eleven b'clock we pafl'ed the equinoftial line, fo that in the after- noon we found ourfelves at five minutes fouthern latitude, where we had but little reafon to complain of cold ; it being often fo calm here, that fliips are forced to fpend a con- fiderable time in paffmg this traft. It is extremely hot here, and great fcarcity of good and fweet water, the rain-water being not wholefome, but caufmg the fcurvy, by rea- fon of its being corrupted by the violent heat of the fun. About three years after my arrival in Brazil, a certain Portuguefe fhip "was found adrift under the equinoclial line, without any living creature in it, which, according to the journal, had been fix whole weeks under the line. We had a very good paf- fage, and catched abundance of fifli, and among the reft a certain fifti called the blower, which fwallow a confiderable quantity of water in their guts, and then at once fpout it forth again. They will follow the fhips for a long time. The 8th we paffed by the ille called Ilha Ferdinando of Neronha ; it being very ferene weather, we faw vaft numbers of birds, and whole inioals of flying fifli, which were followed by the Bonytes and Korets. The ifland of Ferdinando of Neronha, fituated under the fourth degree of fouthern latitude, about fifty leagues from the coaft of Brazil, was about the year 1630 inha- bited by the Dutch, but by reafon of the vaft number of rats, which confumed all the fruits of the earth, deferted by them a few years after ; it being otherwife a very fruit- ful ifland, and abounding with fifli, the inhabitants of Receif being ufed to fend their fiftier-boats thither, which return commonly well freighted with fifli. The council of Brazil did afterwards fend a certain number of negroes thither, under the conduft of one Gellis Vepant, to cultivate the ground for their fubfiftence, who likewife flayed there for fome time. About a-year and a half after, the council of juftice baniflied feveral 701 nieuhoff's brazil. feveral malefadors into that ifland, who, being furnifhed with neceflary inftruments for cultivating the ground, were forced to feek for their fuftenance there. The nth at night we found ourfelves under the feventh degree, over againft the province of Goyana, about twenty leagues on this fide of Olinda ; with break of day we faw the ihore of Brazil, but kept out at fea till it was broad day. The 1 2th it was very foggy, and we kept our courfe with fair wind and water all along the coafl, and arrived before noon fafely near the Receif, where we call our anchor at feveral fathoms depth, after we had fpent feven weeks and one day in the voyage. After we had returned our thanks to God for his deliverance from the dangers of the fea, and flavery of the Turks, I went afliore the fame night with the mafter and commiffary in a boat, to notify our happy arrival, and to deliver a letter to Count Maurice, and the governor of the council. I continued afliore that night, but returned aboard the next day. And, The 1 5th the pilots conduced our veffel into the harbour of the Receif, where we found twenty-eight vefTels and two yachts lying behind the Water Caftel. Towards the latter end of Augufl 1643, I received orders from the council to fail with the yacht called the Sea Hog, loadenwith fullers-earth, to the ifle of St. Thomas, to exchange it for black fugar, this being the chief commodity tranfported from thence. My voyage proved fortunate enough, not meeting with any finifter accident, except with a violent tempefl of thunder, lightning, and rains, and came the 9th of Sep- rember at an anchor there ; the cargo did bear no good price, yet after a ftay of four- teen days, I returned with a cargo of black fugar to Brazil, where I arrived the 3d of October before the Receif, after a voyage of near three months. The ifle of St. Thomas is of a circular figure, about thirty-fix leagues in compafs ; the high mountains in the midfl: of that ifland are always covered with fnow, notwith- ftanding that in the low grounds, by reafon of its fituation under the line, it is ex- ceflive hot. It is very fertile in black fugar and ginger ; the fugar-fields being con- tinually moifl:ened by the melted fnow that falls down from the mountains. There were at that time above fixty fugar-mills there ; but the air is the mofl: unwholefome in the world, no foreigner daring to ftay fo much as one night afliore, without running the hazard of his life ; becaufe by the heat of the fun-beams fuch venomous vapours are drawn from the earth, as are unfupportable to ftrangers. This fog continues till about ten o'clock in the morning, when the fame is difperfed, and the air cleared, which made us always ftay abroad till after that time. This mift is not obferved at fea. The air here is very hot and moift throughout the year, except in the fummer about June, when the fouth-eaft and fouth-weft winds abate much of the heat of the climate. The vapours drawn up by the fun, occafion certain epidemical intermittent fevers, which carry off" the patient in a few days, with exceifive pains in the head, and violent tor- ments in the bowels ; though fome attribute it to the immoderate ufe of women, and of the juice of cocoas. Certain it is, that among a hundred foreigners, fcarce ten efcape with life, and thofe feldom live till fifty years of age ; though fome of the inhabitants, as likewife the negroes (who are all loufy here), live to a great age. Its firft inhabitants were Jews, baniflied out of Portugal ; they are of a very odd com- plexion. Among the mountains dwell abundance of negroes, who are run away from the Portuguefe, and make fometimes excurfions to the very gates of the city of Pavaofa. It is almoft next to a miracle, that any people fliould inhabit fo unwhole- fome a climate ; but that the hopes of lucre makes all danger eafy. The NIEUHOFF S BRAZIL. . 763 The city of Pavaofa, belonging to this ifland, is fituate upon a rivulet ; it contains about eight hundred houfes, and three churches. This city, as well as the whole ifland, was, Oftober i6, 1641, conquered by the Admiral Cornelius Tol, after a fiege of forty days, without any confiderable lofs ; but both he and his lieutenant, as well as feveral other commanders and many feamen, were fwept away by this peftilen- tial air ; and of three hundred Brazilians, not above fixty efcaped with life. But before I proceed to give you an account of all the remarkable paffages that hap- pened in Brazil fince the revolt of the Portuguefe, and during my ftay of eight years there ; it will not be amifs to give a fliort defcription of this country. A Defcription of Brazil. AMERICA, (or the Weft Indies,) is divided into the Northern and Southern Ame- rica. Brazil is part of the laft. The Northern America borders to the north upon the Terra Incognita, or rather upon Hudfon's Streights ; to the fouth and weft upon the South Sea, and to the eaft upon the ftreights of Panama, the bay of Mexico or Nieu Spain, and the North Sea. It comprehends the following provinces : Eftotiland and Labrador, New France, Canada, Bakaloos, New England, Virginia, Florida, New Spain, the provinces of Mexico, New Mexico, Tlalkalla, Guaxaka, Mechoakana, Zakatula, Kolim, Yukatan, Tabafko, New Gallicia, New Bifcay, Chia- metla, Kuliaka, Cimalon, New Granada, California, Anian, Quivira or New Albion, Conibas, Guatemala, Sokonufko, Chiapa, Vera-pas, Honduras, Nikaragua, Coftarika, and Veragua. The Southern America is a demi-ifland in form of a pyramid, the bafis of which lies to the north ; the point extends to the Streights of Magellan, under the fifty-third de- gree of fouthern latitude, bordering to the eaft upon the Atlantic ocean, or North Sea, and to the weft upon the South Sea ; its whole circuit being of about four thoufand Italian, or one thoufand German, miles. It contains the provinces of Caftilla d'Or, Tierra Ferma (called by the Portuguefe, Paria), Cumana, Caribana, Brazil, Chika to the eaft, to the weft Popayan, Peru, Chili, befides feveral inland provinces. Brazil was firft difcovered by Pedro Alvaro Capralis, a Portuguefe, fome time before Americus Vefputius, viz. the year 1500. He gave it in the name of Santa Cruz, which was afterwards by the Portuguefe changed into that of Brazil, from the wood of the fame name, which is found there in great quantity, and from thence tranfported into all parts of Europe, for the ufe of the dyers. It is fituate in the midft of the torrid zone, extending to the tropic of Cancer and the temperate zone. Concerning its extent from north to fouth, there is no fmall difference among the geographers ; but, according to the beft computations, its beginning may be fixed under the fecond degree and a half of northern latitude, near the river Pata, and its end under the twenty-fourth degree and a half of fouthern latitude, to the river Capibari, two leagues above the city of St. Vincent ; fo that its whole extent from north t6 fouth com- prehends twenty-five degrees, or three hundred and feventy-five leagues ; fome place Brazil betwixt the river of Maranhaon and Rio de la Plata. The extent of Brazil from the eaft, v/here it borders upon the North Sea, to the weft, is not determined hitherto, there being very few who have penetrated fo deep into the country, though its bignefs from eaft to weft may be computed to be feven hundred and forty-two leagues ; there • are 704 xieuhoff's brazil. are forae, however, who extends its limits farther to the eaft, and to the weft as far as Peru or Guiana, which makes an addition of one hundred and eight)- -eight leagues. Some make the boundaries of Brazil to the north the river ot the Amazons, to the fouth Rio de la Platr., to the eaft the i^orth Sea, and to the weft the mountains of Peru or Guiana. Brazil, thus limited, is divided by the Portuguefe into fourteen diftricts, called bv them kapitania, or captainfhips ; viz. Paria, the firft of all towards the north ; Maranhaon, Siara, Potigi or Rio Grande, Paraiba, Parnambuko, Tamarika or Itamarika, Seregippe del Rev, Ouirimune or Bahia dos todos los Santos, Nhoe-Kombe or Os Uhos, Pakata or Porto Securo, Rio de Janeiro or Nheterova, St. Mncent, and Efpiritu Santo. "Whilft part of Brazil was in our pofleffion, it might convenientlv be dinded into the Dutch and Portuguefe Brazil. Each of thefe captainfhips is watered by fome confider- able river or other, belides feveral others of lefs note ; moft of thefe have ver\- rapid currents in the rainy months, and overflow the adjacent country-. The river of St. Francis, the largeft and moft confiderable in thofe parts, is the com- mon boundar)- of the captainftiip of Parnambuko and Bahia dos todos los Santos, or the Bay of All Saints. In fome places it is fo broad that a (ix-pounder can fcarce reach over it, and its depth is eight, twelve, and fometimes fifteen vards ; but it admits of no fhips of burthen, becaufe its entrance is choked up with lands. Its firft fpring is faid to arife out of a certain lake, w hich being augmented by manv rivulets out of the mountains of Peru, but efpecially by the rivers of Rio de la Plata and Maranhaon, exonerates itlelf into the fea. Some of our people went in a fhallop near forty leagues up the river, and found it of a good depth and prett>- broad. If we may believe the Portuguefe, there are about fifty leagues from the fea, certain impafTable cataracts or water-falls, called hv them Kakocras ; bevond thofe the river winds to the north, till you come to its fource in the lake, in which are many pleafant iflands, inha- bited by the barbarians ; as is hkewife the fhore round about it. Thev find good ftore of gold-duft in this lake, but it is none of the beft, being carried thither by the many rivulets which wafli the gold-bearing rocks of Peru : here is alfo moft excellent falt- petre. It is obfervable, that in the fummer, and thofe winter months when it rains but fel- dom, this river has more water than in the rainy feafon : the reafon alleged for it is, the vaft diftance from its firft fource, whither the rains that fall from the mountains muft firft be conveved by manv rivulets. All the other rivers near the Receif are fo empty of water during the fummer feafon, that they are rendered quite unnavigable. But the ridges of mountains, which lie not far from the fea-fhore, exonerate their waters, as well here as in Peru, back-w-ard to the weft, and di\"iding themfelves into two branches ; the firft runs to the north, and joins T^ith the mofl: large and rapid rivers of Maranhaon and of the Amazons ; the other with the rivers of St. Francis de la Plata and Janeiro. The waters of thefe rivers being confiderably increafed by many rivulets, they exonerate themfelves with fo much \-iolence into the fea, that the feamen meet often with firefh vvater at a confiderable diftance at fea. The increafe of the waters in this river, during the dry feafon, may likewife be attri- buted to the vaft quantit}- of fnow among the mountains, which being melted by the heat of the fun, cKcafions the river to tranfgrefs its ordinary bounds ; which in this point is quite different from other rivers, which commonly in the winter-time overflow their banks. Six of thofe captainfhips were under the jurifdidion of the Weft India company, be- fore the Portuguefe revolted from the Dutch, which they had conquered with their 3 fwords. Y-.->,> NIEUHOFF S BRAZIL. 70^ fwords, viz. the captamfhip (it being on the fouth fide) Seregippe del Rey of Parnani- buko, Itamarika, unto which belongs Gauiana, Paraiba, Potigi or Rio Grande, and Siara or Ciara. The captainfliip of Maranhaon was 1 644, by fpecial command of the company, left by the Dutch. This part of Brazil ufed to be called by the Portuguefe the Northern Brazil, as the other remaining in their poffeffion went by the name of South Brazil. The fix Dutch captainfliips did extend all along the fea-coafl from north to fouth, in length about a hundred and fixty or a hundred and eighty leagues ; for from Rio Grande to the northern border of Seregippe del Rey, is a hundred leagues : the two others, viz. that of Siara to the north, and Seregippe del Rey to the fouth, make up the reft. Each of thefe captainfhips contain feveral other lefler diftrifts, called by the Por- tuguefe Fregefias, and by us Fregefien : as for inftance, in Seregippe del Rey, are Pojuka, Kameragibi, Porto Calvo, Seiinhaim, and feveral others. Fregafie compre- hends a certain traft of ground, compofed of divers villages, rivers, hills, and valleys, betwixt each of which is commonly a tra£t of barren hills, of about three or four leagues in length. Moft of the Dutch captainfliips are but indifferently cultivated, becaufe the Portuguefe ufed not to manure the ground in thofe parts beyond three or four, or, at fartheft, five leagues diftance from the fea. The captainftiip of Seregippe del Rey is likewife called Carigi, from a certain fmall lake of that name ; it is fituate in the fouthern part of Brazil, extending about thirty- two leagues along the fea-coaft, bordering on the north fide, upon the river of St. Francis, by which it is divided from Parnambuko, as on the fouth fide it is feparated by Rio Real from Bahia dos todos los Santos. Seregippe del Rey has, among others, a cer- tain Fregafie called Porto Calvo, fituated betwixt the ninth and tenth degree of fouth- ern latitude ; being encompafied on the north-weft fide by "the Fregafie of Serin- haim, and the fmall river of Pirafenunga, extending to the fouth as far as the river Parepuera, by which it is divided from the Fregafie of Alagoafi, containing in all about twelve leagues in length near the fea-fliore, its bounds on the land fide reaching to the unpaffable woods. In this Fregafie is a village, called by the Portuguefe Villa de bon fucceflb de Porto Calvo, but was formerly called Portocano Dos quatros Rios, it being fituate at the con- fluence of the four rivers, Maleita, Tapamunde, Commentabunda and Monguaba. It is built upon a rifing ground, about four leagues from the fea-fliore, and by the Dutch ftrengthened with two forts ; the biggeft of which was called Bon SucceiTo, being built all of ftone, furrounded with a good counterfcarp, with a large bafon of frefti water within. The other fort was called by us the New Church, being created out of the ruins of an old church, called by the Portuguefe Nofla Senhora de Prefentacao. Be- twixt both thefe forts, a third was ordered to be erected by Count Maurice, upon the banks of the river, but it lying within the reach of mufket-ftiot from the mountains, was not brought to perfection. The village has two ftreets, the chief of which runs parallel with the river, from one fort to the other, and is called St. Jofeph's ftreet ; it contained no more than three houfes of one ftory high, and about thirty-fix others covered with pantiles, being only built upon the ground. The Portuguefe have, in lieu of their churches, which were demoliflied when the fortifications were ereded, built themfelves another on the other fide of the river, where they fometimes hear mafs. The village is fituate in a moft pleafant and wholefome air, being cooled by the continual breezes from the fea, which are not ftopped by any hills betwixt them and the fliore. In the night-time they enjoy the benefit of the land-wind, which drives the cool vapours arifing from the neighbour- voL. XIV. 4 X ing yo6 nieuhoff's bkazil. ing rivers thither. Formerly there was a certain town called Seregippe del Rey, fome- what higher up the river, in a very barren place, of a confiderable bignefs, and well built, with three goodly churches, and a nionaflery belonging to the Francilcaiis, but without any fortifications. Above this town you fee a chapel dedicated to St. Chrillo- pher, whither the Roman catholics come on pilgrimage. This captainfhip was firft of all reduced under the obedience of the Portuguefe, or Spaniards, by Chriftovan de Barros ; who for this his good fervicc, had all the lands betwixt the fmall lake of Seregippe and St. Francifco granted to him, with full power to fettle colonies there within a limited time. This drew many of the inhabitants to the Bay of All Saints thither, who, within a few years after, laid the foundation of this town, by erefting four fugar-mills, and building about a hundred houfes, with four hundred ftables for their cattle. But this town, with all the circumjacent houfes, was, 1637, the 24th of December, laid defolate by our people, the inhabitants retiring to the Bay of All Saints. For the Spanifh general Benjola being, 1637, polled with a body of two thouland men near that place, did, with ravaging and burning, confider- able damage to our colonies, which obliged Count Maurice to diflodge him from thence ; but being then fick of an ague, he committed this expedition to the charge of Colonel Schoppe ; for which purpofe, having gathered a body of two thoufand three hundred men, befides four hundred Brazilians, and two hundred and fifty feamen out cf the adjacent places, near the river of St. Francis, xVIagoas, the cape of St. j\ultin, out of the Receif and Moribeka, and given him for his afliflant Mr. John Van GiefTe- len, a member of the great council, he commanded the Dutch admiral LIchthart to cruife with his fleet near the Bay of All Saints, thereby to draw the enemy out of his advantageous poft to the fea-fhore. The Spanifli general had no fooner notice of our paffing the river, but fearing to be inclofed betwixt us and the fleet, marched with his body to Torre Garcie de Avila, a place about fourteen leagues to the north of the city of St. Salvador. The Dutch general Schoppe bearing of his removal, immediately attacked the place, which he laid defolate, and returned with incredible fwiftnefs to the fouth fide of the river of St. Francis. Here he intrenched himfelf, with an intention to annoy the enemy, by cutting off his provifions, and driving away his cattle ; which fucceeded fo well, that we killed above three thoufand of their horned beafts, befides what was carried away on the other fide of the river ; fo that what was left by the foldiers, was by the inhabitants carried to the Bay of All Saints ; from whence it is evident, what vail numbers of cattle this country did produce at that time. The great council took once a refolution to re-people that part of the country, and agreed, for this purpofe, with Nunno Olferdi, counfellor of juflice in the Receif, wlio found means to fettle feveral families there : but the council of nineteen difapproving the matter, it was laid afide. In the year 1641, Count Maurice reduced this place under the obedience of the Weft India company, ereded a fort there, and furrounded the town Seregippe del Rey with a ditch. It lies upon a fmall river, betwixt St. Francifco and Real, which, how- ever, at fpring-tide, has fcurteen foot water, or thereabouts. Within the jurifdidion of this captainfliip is the mountain of Tabayna ; from whence feveral forts of valuable ore were prefented to the council of nineteen ; but, upon proof, were found not worth ferther looking after. Tbe nieuhofi-'r brazil. 707 The CaptainJI}!p of Parnambuko. THE captainihip of Parnambuko is one of the chiefeft and biggefh of the Dutcii Brazil. It extends above fixty leagues along the coalt, betwixt the river of St. Francis and the captainihip of T amarika. Parnambuko properly denotes the entrance of the harbour, which, by reafon of the many rocks and fhelves hidden under water, was called, by tlie Portuguefe, Inferno Bokko, and Broken Parnambuko, or the Mouth of Hell. It is fubdivided into eleven leffer diilricls, inhabited by the Portuguefe, viz. the city of Olinda, Garazu, Receif, Moribeka, St. Anthony, Poyuka, Serinhaim, Gon- falvi d'Una, Porto Calvo, the Northern Alagoa, and the Southern Alagoa. Among which Olinda and Garazu were the chiefeft. The town, or rather the village, of Garazu, lies at fome diflance from the fliore, over-againft the ifland of Tamarika, upon a river of the fame name, about five leagues from Olinda. It was formerly inhabited by Portuguefe handicrafts-men, but, fince our taking of Olinda, feveral rich families fettled there : we became mailers of the place 1633, in May. Moribeka lies deeper in the country, more to the fouth, about five leagues off of the Receif. St. Anthony is about feven or eight leagues diftant from the Receif, to the fouth, near the cape of St. Aufliin. The city of St. Michael de Poyuka lies about ten leagues to the fouth of the Re- ceif, upon a river of the fame name, which difembogucs in the fea, on the fouth fide of the cape of St. Auftin. It was formerly a very populous place, and had thirteen fugar-mills. The village Serinhaim, much about the fame diftance thence with the former, is a very pleafant place, has twelve fugar-mills, each of which produces fix or feven thou- fand arobas, an aroba making about twenty-feven or twenty-eight pound weight. The village of Gonfalvi d'Una lies twenty leagues from the Receif; it has five fugar-mills. The village called Porto Calvo is twenty-five leagues diflant from the Receif; it has feven or eight fugar-mills. Here is the caftle of Porocano, which was not conquered by us, till under the government of Count Maurice. The towns of the Northern and Southern Alagoas are forty leagues from the Receif. Within the diifrift of Parnambuko are two woods, called by the Portuguefe the Greater and Leifer Palmairas, or Palmtree- woods. The Leifer Palmairas, which is inhabited by fix thoufand negroes, lies about twenty leagues above the Alagoas, being inclofed with woods near the fmall lake of Guagohuhi, which exonerates itfelf into the great lake of Parayba, fix leagues from thence to the north, about four leagues from the lake Meridai, to the fouth of the Northern Alagoa, being near that point of land commonly called Jaragoa. The village confifts of three ftreets, each near half a league in length. Their huts are made or firaw twifted toge- ther, one near another, their plantations being behind. They retain fomething of the religious worfliip of the Portuguefe, but have their peculiar priefts and judges. Their buiinefs is to rob the Portuguefe of their flaves, who remain in llavery among them till they have redeemed themfelves by dealing another : but fuch flaves as run over to them are as free as the reft. Their food is dates, beans, meal, barley, fugar-canes, tame-fowl (of which they have great plenty), and filh, which the lake furnilhes them 4x2 withal. 7o8 nieuiioff's crazif.. withal. They have twice a year a harveft of barley, which being over, they make merry for a whole week together. Before fowing tinie,>.they light great fires for four- teen days, wliich may be feen at a great diftance. The fliortefl way from the Receif to this Palmairas is along the lake of the Northern Alagoa. The greater Palmairas is betwixt twenty and thirty leagues diflant behind the village of St. Amar, near the mountain of Behe, being furrounded with a double inclofure. About eight thoufand negroes are faid to inhabit the valleys near the mountains, befides many others, who dwell in lefler numbers of fifty or a hundred, in other places. Their houfes lie ftraggling, they fow and reap among the woods, and have certain caves whi- ther they retreat in cafe of necefliiy. They drefs their viftuals in the day-time, and at night tell over their whole number, to fee whether any be wanting ; if not, they conclude the evening with dancing and beating the drum, which may be heard at a great diftance. Then they go to fleep till nine or ten o'clock the next day. During the dry feafon, they detach a certain number among them, to fteal Haves from the Por- tuguefe. The fhorteft cut to their habitations is from the Alagoas through St. Amar, and fo crofs the plains of Nhumahu and Kororipe, towards the backfide of the moun- tain of Wari;akaka, till you come to the lake Paraiba ; along which you mull pafs, till vou reach the mountain Behe, from whence you go directly into the valleys. Under the government of Count Maurice, the negroes of this Palmairas did confiderable mif- chief, efpecially to the country-people about the Alagoas ; to reprefs which, he fent three hundred firelocks, one hundred Mamelukes, and feven hundred Brazilians. The Receif, Maurice's Town, and Anthony Vae%, The Receif is, by reafon of its commodious and advantageous fituation, the ftrongeft place of all Brazil ; befides that, it is ftrengthened and defended by feveral adjacent forts : but to give you the moft commodious view both of the Receif, and the fituation of Maurice's town, it is to be obferved, that the whole coalt of Brazil is, from one end to the other, furrounded with a long, thick, and flat ridge of rocks, which in fome places is twenty, and in others thirty paces broad : however, there are certain palfages in this ridge, through which the fliips approach the fliore, and fome few places, where this ridge is not to be found at all. Thus a league on this fide Rio Dolee, two leagues on the north fide of the city of Olinda, there is nothing of this ridge to be found ; but be- gins again near Poumarelle or Soxamardo, and extends to the ifle of Itamarika. Be- twixt the ridge and the continent you may pafs in boats at high yater ; for at low tide moft of thofe rocks appear above water ; though the tide never fails to cover the fame. The rock over-againft the Receif of Parnambuko is between twenty and thirty paces broad, being not only at fpring tides, but at all other tides overflown by the fea ; it is thereabouts very flat, without any prominences, and extends for a league from fouth to north. On the north point is an open paifage for fliips to approach the fhore, lying five hundred paces farther to the north than the Receif itfelf. It is but narrow, and at fpring-tide not above twenty-two feet deep. Betwixt this rocky ridge and the continent there is a fandy ridge, or fmall ifland, extending to the fouth from Olinda, a league in length, and about tw'o hundred paces broad. This is by our people commonly called 'I'he Sandy Receif, to diftinguifli it from The Stony Receif. On the fouthern point of this little ifland, a league oft" Olinda, the Portuguefe had built a village called Povoacano, which fignifies peopling, or elfe Rcciifo ; it was very 1 populous nieuhoff's brazil. 709 popmlous for a confiderable time, till the building of Maurice's Town, in the ifland of Anthony Vaez. For after Olinda was forfaken by its inhabitants, and deftroyed by us, many of them, but efpecially the merchants, fettled in this Reciffo, or the village of Povoacano, where they eredled magnificent ftruftures. At our firft arrival we found no more than two hundred houfes there, which were afterwards increafed to above two thoufand, fome of which are very goodly edifices. We furrounded it with pallifadoes on the fide of the river Biberibi, which at low water is fordable ; and for its better fecurity fortified it with three bulwarks, one towards Olinda, the other to the harbour, ^and the third towards the Salt-River ; upon each of which was raifed a good battery with three great cannon. This Receif is fituate under 8° 20' fouthern latitude. Some derive the word Reciffo from the Latin, recipere and receptus to receive, which after was turned into Reciffo, becaufe the fhips ufed to be received betwixt the Stony and Sandy Receifs, to load and unload their goods. Before the building of Maurice's Town, we kept here our factories, and all bufinefs both of peace and war was tranf- afted in this place. In the time of the Portuguefe, all the fhips coming out of the fea did unload on the village of Povoacano, or the Receif, and the goods were from thence in boats and lighters conveyed up the river Biberibi, to the fuburbs of Olinda. Before the building of Maurice's Town, moft of the traffic was in the Receif, where all the great merchants had their habitations, and from hence the fugar was tranfported into Holland. To prevent the frauds in the cufloms, it was furrounded with palli- fadoes, and a goodly hofpital was erefted for the conveniency of the fick and wounded, and the education of orphans, under the tuition of four governors, and as many governeffes. Upon the uttermoft point of the Stony Receif, on the left fide, as you enter the har- bour out of the fea, is a ftrong and large caftle, built of free-ftone, furrounded with a very high wall, upon which are mounted many heavy cannon, with fuitable artillery and other provifions. When we took- the place, we found nine brafs, and twenty-two iron pieces of cannon within it ; fo that it feems both by art and nature impregnable ; there being no coming near it on foot, at high water. About five leagues higher, upon a branch of the great river, lies a fmall town of little confequence, called by our people The New City ; and upon another branch of the fame river, oppofite to the former, a village called Atapuepe. The IJland of Afithony Vaez, and Maurice's Town. TO the fouth of the Receif, oppofite to it, lies the ifle of Anthony Vaez, fo called by our people, from its ancient poflelfor. It is about half a league in circuit, being divided from the Receif by the Salt-River, or Biberibi. On the eaft fide of this ifland, Count Maurice laid the foundation of a city, which, after his own name, he called Maurice's Town or city ; the ruins of the churches or monafleries of the city of Olinda furnifhed the materials for the building of it, which were from thence carried to the Receif, and fo tranfported to this place. On the wefl fide it is environed with a morafs ; and on the eaft fide waflied by the fea, which paffes the ftony ridge. Befides which, it is on the land fide flrengthened with an earthern wall, four bulwarks and a large moat. On that fide where the fort of Erneftus Vi'as, the town lay open, and the houfes took up a larger compafs than thofe in the Receif; but after the revolt of the Portuguefe, moft of thofe houfes were pulled down, and the place drawn into a more narrow com- pafs. 7IO NIEL'HOFF ,S BRAZIL. pafs, to render it more defenfible : yet was the place well flocked with inhabitants, as well merchants as handicrafts-men. Maurice's Town was on each fide guarded by a fort. On the fouth fide by the fort called Frederick-Henry, or the quinquangular fort, from its five bulwarks. This fort was, befides this, furrounded by a large ditch and pallifadoes, and ftrengthened by two horn-works, fo that it commanded the whole plain, which at fpring-tides ufed to be overflown by the fea. The fecond fort Erneftus, thus called after John Erneft, the brother of Count Mau- rice, was four-fquare, with four bulwarks, with a very large ditch ; it commanded the river, the plains, and Maurice's Town. Near this lall fort was the garden of Count Maurice, flored with all forts of trees, brought thither from Europe and both the Indies. Upon the north point of the Stony Receif juft over againft the Sandy Receif, lies the before-named fort, built all of Itone, being about a hundred paces in circumference, provided with a good garrifon and twenty pieces of great cannon, though in ftormy weather the water flies over it on all fides. It commands the harbour, the land-fort, the Bruin Fort, and the Receif. As the ifle of Anthony Vaez was joined to the continent by a bridge, fo it was thought neceffary to join the Receif with another bridge to the faid ifland, for the conveniency of carriage ; the fugar-chefts being before that time never to be tranfporied to the Receif, except at low water, unlefs the owners would run the hazard of expofing them to the danger of the fea in finall boats. Accordingly the great council, wii.h confent of the governor Count Maurice, agreed with a certain architeft for the building of a bridge with flone arches, for the fum of two hundred and fifty thoufand florins. But after the architect had confumed a prodigious quantity of Hone, and raifed the ftructure near to the height of the banks of the river, finding that at low-water there was Hill eleven foot water, and defpairing to be able to accomplifli it, left it unfinifhed. But the council being unwilling to defiff, renewed the work, which had already coft a hundred thoufand florins ; and by means of many trees of forty and fifty foot long, flopped the current till the bridge was brought to perfeftion, which was done in two months time, and a certain toll impofed upon all palTengers, viz. for an inhabitant two-pence, for a foldier and negro one penny, for a horfe four-pence, and a waggon drawn by oxen feven-pence. The fpace betwixt the Sandy and Stony Receif is properly the harbour, which at high water has about thirteen or fourteen foot depth, where the fliips ride very fafe, being defended from the fea by the Stony Receif. The paiVage betwixt the Sandy Re- ceif and the continent is called the Salt-River, to diflinguifh it from the river Kapivaribi, which carries fweet water. The river Kapivaribi has derived its name from a certain kind of river or fea hogs, which ufed to be found there, and were by the Brazilians called Kapivaribi. This river arifes fome leagues to the well, paffing by the Matta, or the Wood of Brazil, Mafyafli, St. Lorenzo, and Real, where, joining with the river AfTogados, near another river of the fame name, difembogues in the fea, near the Receif. The river Kapivaribi divides itfelf into two branches ; one turns to the fouth, and paffes by the fort William, and is called AfFogados ; the other running to the north, retains its former name, continuing its courfe betwixt the continent and Maurice's Town, or the ifle of Anthony Vaez (into which you may pafs over it by a bridge), and fo to Waerdenburgh, where it joins with the river Biberibi, or Salt- River, both which are afterwards mixed with the fea. The two branches of this river furround the river Biberibi on the weft fide, and to the 4 eaft NIELIIOIl S BR.\ZIL. 7II eaft the iile of Anthony Vaez. Upon that branch of the river called Affogados, are abundance of fugar-mills, from whence the Portuguefe ufed to convey their fugar-chefls, either in boats by the way of the river, or in carts to Baretta, and from thence in flat- bottomed boats to the Receif and to Olinda. A league to the fouth of Maurice's Town, upon the branch called Affogados, is a four-fquare fort of the fame name, otherwife called Fort William ; and from whence you may pafs along a dike to the fort Frederick-Henry, or Maurice's Town. It was a noble ftrufture, furrounded with high and ftrong walls, a large ditch and pallifadoes, with fix brafs cannon ; it defended the avenues to the plains. About half a league from thence, and at the fame diftance from the continent, lies another fort on the fea-fhore, called Baretta ; this commands the avenues both by fea and land to the cape of St. Auftin and the Receif. Upon that part of the ifland which lies betwixt the rivers Kapivaribi and Biberibi, and betwixt the forts of Erneftus and the triangular fort of Waerdenburg, were the before-mentioned gardens of Count Maurice, ftored with all kinds of trees, fruits, flowers and greens, which either Europe, Africk, or both the Indies could afford. There were near feven hundred cocoa-trees of all fizes, fome of which were thirty, forty, and fifty feet high ; which being tranfplanted thither, out of the circumjacent countries, bore abundance of fruit the very firfl year ; above fifty lemon-trees, and eighteen citron-trees, eighty pomegranate-trees, and fixty-fix fig-trees, were aifo to be feen in thefe gardens. In the midfl of it ftood the feat itfelf, called Vryburg, a noble ftrufture indeed, which, as is reported, cofl fix hundred thoufand florins ; it had a moft admirable prof- peft, both to the fea and land fide, and its two towers were of fuch a height, that they might be feen fix or feven leagues oflat fea, and ferved the feamen for a beacon. In the front of the houfe was a battery of marble, rifing by degrees from the river fide, upon which were mounted ten pieces of cannon for the defence of the river. About two or three rods from the river, were feveral large bafons in the garden, containing very fweet water, notwithflanding the river all round about afforded nothing but falt- water ; befides this, there were divers fifli-ponds, flocked with all forts of fifh. At the very foot of the bridge which is built over the river Kapivaribi, from Mau- rice's Town to the continent, Count Maurice had built a very pleafant fummer feat, called by the Portuguefe, Baavifta, i. e. a fair profpedt. It was not only furrounded with very pleafant gardens and filh-ponds, but ferved likewife as a fort for the defence of the ifle of Anthony Vaez and Maurice's Town. Upon the Sandy Receif, oppofite to the fea, or Water Fort, was a ftrong fort built offtone, called by the Portuguefe, St, Toris, our people ufed to call it the Land Fort, to diflinguifli it from the before-mentioned Water Fort ; it defends the entrance of the harbour with thirteen iron pieces of cannon. About a mufket-fhot thence to the north, lies upon the fame Sandy Receif, a fmall fort with four baftions, called the fort of Bruin ; and about a muflvet-fhot farther to the north, a redoubt, called Madame de Bruin ; both thefe forts were built by the Dutch. Near the continent, nor far from the falt-pits, betwixt the Sandy Receif and the ifle of Anthony Vaez, was a triangular fort called Waerdenburg. It was at firfl a four- fquare, but afterwards turned by the Dutch into a triangular fort, the fourth bulwark being not defenfible, by reafon of the ground. Thefe three bulwarks were afterwards changed into as many redoubts, and provided with fome brafs guns j at high tide it is furrounded on all fides with water. The 712 NIEUHOFF S BRAZIL. The City of Olinda. AT a fmall diftance from the Receif, or Maurice's Town, to ilie north, is the ruinated city of Olinda, once a famous place among the Portugucfe ; the whole pro- dudt of Brazil being from thence tranfported by fea into Europe. The beft part of the city was built upon divers hills ; towards the fea on the fouth fide, thefe hills were pretty plain, extending to the fea-fhore, which has a very white fand all along that coaft ; towards the land fide, or the north, thofe hills are more fteep and craggy, full of thorn-buflies, intermixed with a few orange-trees. Thefe hills are an additional ftrength to the place, which befides this, was guarded by feveral baftions to the land fide, though by reafon of the great variety of hills contained in its circuit, it was a diffi- cult tafk to bring the fortifications into a regular form. There is a very fair profpedl from the higher part of the town, both to the fouth and north, or to the fea and land fide, by reafon of the great quantity of circumjacent trees, which continue green all the year round. You may alfo from thence fee the ifle of Anthony Vaez, and Mau- rice's Town. The point of land near Olinda, is called Tipo by the inhabitants. Upon the higheft hill within the place, flood formerly a convent belonging to the Jefuits, being a magnificent flrudture, founded by Sebaftian King of Portugal, who endowed it with confiderable revenues. It had a very fair profpedl, and might be feen at a good diflance at fea. Not far from thence was another monaftery belonging to the Capuchins ; and near the fea-fhore, another of the Dominican friars. Befides which, it had two churches, the one called St. Salvador, and the other St. Peter. It contained above two thoufand inhabitants, befides the clergymen and flaves, among whom were two hundred that were accounted very rich. On the foot of the mountain upon which the city of Olinda was built, a ftrong redoubt was erecled, which in the year i(')43 was by a ferjeant betrayed to the Portuguefe for a fum of money. About a league from the city, near the water-fide, were the fuburbs, well flored with inhabi- tants and packhoufes, but deflitute of frefli water, which they were fain to fetch from beyond the river. The whole diftrict of Parnambuco abounds in divers kinds of fruits and cattle. The valleys afford good paflurage, and the lower grounds near the rivers, great ftore of fugar reeds, which are much cultivated hereabouts. The mountains produce richer minerals here, than in the other captainfhips. During the rainy feafon the heat is more tolerable here in the day-time than the cold nights. The Cameleori, or Indian Salamander, otberzvife called Gekko. THIS creature, which is not only found in Brazil, but alfo in the ifle of Java, belong- ing to the Eafl Indies, and which by our people is called Gekko, from its conffant cry (like among us that of Cuckoe), is properly an Indian Salamander. It is about a foot long, its fkin of a pale or fea-green colour, with red fpots. The head is not unhke that of a tortoife, with a ftraight mouth. The eyes are very large, ffarting out of the head, with long and fmall eye-apples. The tail is diflinguifhed by feveral white rings. Its teeth are fo fharp as to make an impreflion even upon fleel. Each of its four legs had five crooked claws armed on the end with nails. Its gait is very flow, but wherever it faflcnsit is not eafily removed. It dwells commonly upon rotten trees, or XIEUHOFf's BRAZir. 7^3 or among the ruins of old houfes and churches ; it oftentimes fett'es near the bedfteads, which makes fometimcs the moors pull down their huts. Its conftant cry is Gekko, but before it begins it makes a kind of hifiing noife. The fling of this creature is fo venomous, that the wound proves mortal, unlefs it be im- mediately burnt \\ith a red-hot iron, or cut olF. The blood is of a palifli colour, refembling poifon itfelf. The Javanefe ufe to dip their arrows in the blood of this creature ; and thofe who deal in poifons among them (an art much efteemed in the illand of Java, by both fexes) hang it up with a firing tied to the tail on the ceiling, by which means it being exafpe- rated to the higheft pitch, fends forth a yellow liquor out of its mouth, which they gather in fmall pots fet underneath, and afterwards coagulate into a body in the fun. This they continue for feveral months together, by giving daily food to the creature. It is unqueflionably the ftrongefl poifon in the world, its urine being of fo corrofive a quality, that it not only raifes blifters wherever it touches the Ikin, but turns the flefii black, and caufes a gangrene. The inhabitants of the Eaft Indies fay, that the beft remedy againfl this poifon is the Curcumie root. Such a Gekko was got within the body of the wall of the church in the Receif, which obliged us to have a great hole made in the faid wall to diflodge it from thence. There are alfo feveral forts of ferpents in Brazil, fuch as rattle-ferpents, double- headed ferpents, and fuch like ; of which the Brazilians enumerate twenty-three, viz. Boigvacu, or Liboya, Arabo, Bioby, Boicininga, Boitrapo, Boykupekanga, Bapoba, Kukuruku, Kaninana, Kurukakutinga, Grinipaijaguara, Ibiara, Jakapekoaja, ibiboboca, Jararaka, Manima, Vona, Tarciboya, Kakaboya, Amorepinima. We will give you an account of thofe only that dwell in the houfes and woods of Pernambuko, pafling by the reft, as not fo well known among us ; and it is obfervable that though lome of the American or Brazilian ferpents exceed thofe of Europe in bignefs, they are neverthelefs not fo poifonous. The ferpent of Boicininga, or Boicinininga, likewife called Boiquira by the Brazilians, is by the Portuguefe called Kafkaveda and Tangedor, i. e. a rattle, and by our people a rattle-ferpent, becaufe it makes a noife with its tail, not unlike a rattle. This ferpent is found both upon the highway and in defolate places ; it moves with fuch fvviftnefs as if it had wings, and is extremely venomous. In the midfl it is about the thicknefs of a man's arm near the elbow, but grows thinner by degrees towards the head and tail. The belly and head is flattifh, the lafl being of the length and breadth of a finger and a half, with very fmall eyes. It has four peculiar teeth longer than all the reft, white and fharp like a thorn, which it hides fometimes within the gums. The fkin is covered with thick fcales, thofe upon the back being fomcwhat higher than the reft, and of a pale yellowifh colour, with black edges. The fides of the body are likewife yellowifh, with black fcales on each fide ; but thofe upon the belly are larger, four-fquare, and of a yellow colour. It is three, four, and fometimes five foot long ; has a round tongue, fplit in the middle, Vvith long and fharp teeth. The tail is compofed of feveral loofe and bony joints, which make fuch a noife that it may be heard at a diftance ; or ratlier at the end of the tail, is a long piece, confifting of feveral joints, joined within one another in a mofl peculiar manner, not unlike a chain. .Every year there is an addition of one of thefe joints, fo that you may know the exact age of the ferpent by their number ; nature feeming in this point to have favoured mankind, as a warning to avoid this poifonous creature by this noife. One of thefe joints put in the fundament caufes inmicdiate death ; but the fling of this creature proceeds much flower in its operation, for in the beginning a bloody matter ilTues from VOL. XIV. 4 Y the 714 nieuiioff's brazil. the wound, afterwards the flefli turns blue, and the ulcer corrodes the adjacent parts by degrees. 'llic' mofl fovereign remedy ufed by the Brazilians againfl; the poifon of this and other ferpents, is the head of the fame ferpent that has given the wound, which they bruife in a mortar, and in form of a plaifter apply it to the affefted part. They mix it commonly with fading fpittle, wherewith they alfo frequently moiften the wound. If they find the poifon begins to feize the nobler parts, they ufe the Tiproka as a cordial, and afterwards give ftrong fudorifics. They alfo lay open the wound, and apply cupping-glafles, to draw the venom from thence ; or elfe they burn it with a red-hot iron. The ferpent Kukuruku is of an afh colour, with yellow fpots within and bhck fpeckles without, and has juft fuch fcales as the rattle-ferpent. The ferpent Guaku, or Liboya, is queftionlefs the biggefl of all ferpents ; fome being eighteen, twenty-four, nay thirty toot long, and of the thicknefs of a man in the middle. The Portuguefe call it Kobre Dehado, or the roebuck ferpent, becaufe it will fwallow a whole roebuck, or any other deer it meets with ; and this is performed by fucking it through the throat, which is pretty narrow, but the belly vaftly big. After they have fwallowed fuch a deer, they fall aileep, and fo are catched. Such a one I faw near Paraiba, which was thirty foot long, and as big as a barrel. Some negroes faw it accidentally fwallow a roebuck, whereupon thirteen mufqueteers were fent out, who fliot it, and cut the roebuck out of its belly. It was of a greyifli colour, though others are inclining more to the brown. It is not fo venomous as the other lerpents. The negroes and Portuguefe, nay even fome of the Dutch, eat the flelh ; neither are its flings looked upon as very infeftious, the wound healing often up with- out any application of remedies ; fo that it ought not to be reckoned among the number of poifonous ferpents, no more than the Kaninana, Mavina, and Vocia. This ferpent being a very devouring creature, greedy of prey, leaps from amongft the hedges and woods, and Handing upright upon its tail, wreftles both with men and wild beafls ; fometiraes it leaps from the trees upon the traveller, whom it fallens upon, and beats the breath out of his body with its tail. The ferpent Jararaka is fliort, feldom exceeding the length of an arm to the elbow. It has certain protuberant veins on the head like the adder, and makes much fuch a noife. The fkin is covered with red and black fpots, the reft being of an earth colour. The ftings of this creature are as dangerous, and attended with the fame fymptoms, as thofe of other ferpents. Its body, the head, tail, and fkin, being before taken away together with the entrails, boiled in the water of the root of Jurepeba, with fait, dill, and fuch like, is looked upon as a very good remedy. The ferpent Boitrapo, called by the Portuguefe, Cobre de Cipo, is about feven foot in length, of the thicknefs of a man's arm, feeds upon frogs, and is of an olive colour. It is very venomous, and when it ftings, occafions the fame fymptoms as the ferpent Kukuruku ; nay, the wound is accounted paft curing, unlefs you apply the hot iron. The adder Ibiara, by the Portuguefe called Cobra Vega, or Cobra de das Cabecas, I. e. the double-headed ferpent, becaufe it appears to have two heads, which, however, is not fo. They are found in great numbers, lurking in holes under ground. They feed upon pifmires, are of the thicknefs of the length of a finger, and a foot and a half long, of a filver colour ; nothing is more poifonous than the ftings of thefe creatures, though not beyond all hopes of cure, provided the before-mentioned reme- dies be applied in time. The nieuhoff's brazil. 715 The ferpent by the Brazilians called Ibiboboka, the Portuguefe call Cobra de Corais, It is very beautiful, and of a fnow-white colour, fpeckled with black and red fpots, and about two foot long : its fling is mortal, but kills by degrees. The ferpent Biobi, called by the Portuguefe Cabro Verde, or the green ferpent, about three quarters of a yard long, and the thicknefs of a thumb ; of a fhining green colour. It lives among houfes, and hurts nobody, unlefs when provoked. Its fling is, however, full of poifon, and fcarce curable. A certain foldier being wounded by one of thefe creatures, which lay hidden in a hedge, in his thigh, did, for want of proper remedies, die in a few hours after : his body fwelled, and turned pale blue. The ferpent Kaninana is yellow on the belly, and green on the back ; its length is about eight hands, and is looked upon as the leafl venomous of all. It feeds upon eggs and birds, and the negroes and Brazilians eat the body, after they have cut of»' the head and tail. The ferpent called by the Brazilians Ibirakoa, is of feveral colours, with white, black, and red fpots. The fling of this creature is very poifonous, attended with the fame fymptoms as that of Kukuruku ; for it kills infallibly, unlefs proper remedies be applied immediately. If the poifon has not feized the heart, they boil the flefli of the fame ferpent with certain roots, and give it the patient in wine. The ferpent Tarciboya and Kakaboya are amphibious creatures. The firfl is of a blackifh colour, very large, and flings when provoked, but is not very difficult to be cured. The Kakaboya is of a yellowilh colour, fix hands long, and feeds upon tame fowl. Of the Senembi or the Leguan. NOT only in the captainfhip of Parnambuko, but alfo all over Brazil and America, as likewife in the ifle of Java in the Eafl Indies, are a certain kind of land crocodile, called by the Brazilians Senembi, by our people Leguan : fome are larger than others, Ibme being three, others four foot long, but feldom exceed five : they are all over covered with fcales, which are fomewhat bigger on the back, legs, and beginning of the tail, than on the other parts : the neck is about a finger and a half long, the eyes are black and bright, and the noflrils in the hindermofl part of the head. Each jaw- bone is full of fmall, bhick, and fhort teeth ; the tongue is very thick : all along the back, from the neck to the tail, are fmall fliarp teeth, of a greenifli colour; they are biggefl on the neck, and grow fmaller and fmailer towards the tail : under the throat are likewife many of the fame kind. The whole fkin is of a delicate green, with black and white fpots. It has four legs and feet, with five claws armed with very fharp nails : it can live two or three months without food. Its flefli is as white as that of a rabbit, and of as good a tafle as that of fowls or rabbits, if it be boiled or well fried with butter. In the head of this creature are certain flones, which are an infal- lible remedy to break and drive the gravel out of the kidneys, given to the quantity of two drams at a time, or carried on fome part of the body. There are in Brazil lizards both great and fmall ; fome are green, others greyifli, and fome four foot long, with fparkling eyes. The negroes feed upon fome of them, whom they kill with blunt arrows ; they broil them, after they have fkinned them, and eat them without the leafl harm, xlmong all thofe that are found among the thorns and briars, or the ruins of houfes, there is but one kind venomous, which is caLVd Bibora. They are like the others, but lefTer, not exceeding the bignefs 4 Y 2 of yi6 KiBUHorp's brazil. of a thumb ; they are of an a(h colour, inclining to white ; the body and limbs thick, and fuelled with the poifon, but the tail Ihort and broad. The wounds given by them are full of a thin ftinking matter, with blue fwellings, with a pain near the heart, and in the bowels. There are alfo certain creatures, called Thoufand Legs, as likewife Hundred Legs, by the natives called Ambua, who bend as they crawl along, and are accounted very poifonous. The hrfl are commonly found in the houfcs, and ihe laft among the woods, where they not only fpuil the fruits of the earth, but alfo plague men and beafts. Scorpions, by the Brazilians called Jaaciaiira, are found here in great numbers, being in fliape like the European fcorpions, but not fo pefliferous, and confequently the wounds given by them are eafily cured. They lurk in houfes, behuid old ftools, benches, and chefls. They are exceeding big, no bigger being to be found in any other parts, fome being five or fix foot long, and of a confiderable ihicknefs. There are fuch prodigious quantities of pifmires in Brazil, that for this reafon they are called by the Portuguefe Rey de Brazil, i. e. King of Brazil. They eat all that lights in their way, as fruit, fiefh, fifli, and infefts, without any harm. There is alfo a certain flying pifmire, of a finger's length, with a triangular head, the body being feparatcd into two parts, and faftened together by a fmall firing. On the head aie two fmall and long horns, their eyes being very fmall. On the foremofi; part of the body are fix legs, three joints each, and four thin and tranfparent wings ; to wit, two without, and two within ; the hindermoft part is of a bright brown colour, and round, which is eaten by the negroes. They dig into the ground like the moles, and confume the feed. There is another kind of (jreat pifmires, refembling a great fly ; the whole body of which is about the length of half a finger, and feparated into three feveral parts. The lafl part refembling in fliape and bignefs a barley-corn ; the middlemoft of an oblong figure, with fix legs, half a finger long, each of which has four joints : the ioremolb part, or the head, is pretty thick, in the fliape of a heart, with two horns, and as many black crooked teeth : the white of the eyes is inclining to black, the whole conipofition of the head being the two eyes, placed oppofite to one another, refem- bling the figure of a heart. The fore and hindermolt parts are of a bright red colour. There is another kind of pifmire, of a bright black colour, with black and rough legs. It is about the length of a finger, with a large fo'ur-fquare head, ftarting black eyes and teeth, and two horns, half a finger longer. The body is alfo feparated into three parts. The foremoft of an oblong figure, not very thick, with fix legs, each of the length of half a finger ; the middlemoft very fmall and fquare, not exceeding the bignefs of a loufe ; the hindermofl; is the biggefl: of the three, of an oval figure, and fliarp on the end. Thefe three parts are fafl;ened together with a fingle firing, the Bra- zilians call it Tapijai. There is befides this another pifmire, called by the Brazilians Kupia, of a chcfnut brown colour ; its head being as big as another pifmire, with black eyes, two horns, and two tufks inltead of teeth. The whole body is covered witli hair ; it is divided into two parts ; the foremoft with fix legs, being fomewhat Icfs than the hindermofl ; at certain feafons it gets four wings, the foremoft being a little bigger than the hinder- moft, which it lofes again at a certain time. The Iron Pig of Brazil, called by the Brazilians Kuandu, and "by the Portuguefe Ourico Kachicro, is of the bignefs of a large ape, its whole body being covered with fliarp fpikes of three or four fingers long, without any hair. Towards the body thofe fpikes nieuhoff's brazil, 717 fplkes are halfways yellowini, the remaining part is black, except the points, which are whitifli and as fliarp as an awl. "When they are vexed, they are able, by a cer- tain contraftion of the fkin, to throw or dart them with fuch violence, that they woimd, nay, fometimes kill men or beads. Their w^hole body, to meafure from the hinder- moft part of the head to the beginning of the tail, is a foot long, and the tail a foot and five inches in length, which likewife has halfways fliarp fpikes, the reft being covered with bridles like other hogs. The eyes are round, darting and gliftering like a car- buncle ; about the mouth and nofe is hair of four fingers length, refembling thofe of our cats or hares : the feet are like thofe of apes, but with four fingers only with- out a thumb, inftead of which you fee a place vacant, as if it had been cut away. The fore-legs are lefs than the hindermod, they are likewife armed with fpikes, but not the feet. This creature commonly flecps in the day-time, and roves about by night ; it breathes through the nodrils, is a great lover of fowl, and climbs up the trees, though very flowly. The flelh is of no ungrateful tade, but roaded and eaten by the inha- bitants. It makes a noife jii, like the Luyaert. That four-legged creature, by the Brazilians called Ai, by the Portuguefe Priguiza, and by the Dutch Luyaert (lazy-back) from its lazy and flow pace, becaufe in fifteen days time it fcarce walks above a dene's throw. It is about the bignefs of a middle- fized fox, its length being a little above a foot, to meafure from the neck (which is fcarce three fingers long) to the tail. The fore-legs are feven fingers long to the feet, but the hindermod about fix ; the head round, of three fingers in length ; its mouth, which never is without a foam, is round and fmall, its teeth neither large nor Iharp. The nofe is black, high, and glib, and the eyes fmall, black and heavy. The body is covered all over with adi-coloured hair, about two fingers long ; which are more inclining to the white towards the back. Round about the neck the hair is fomewhat longer than the red. It is a very lazy creature, unable to undergo any fatigues, by reafon its legs are as it were disjointed in the middle ; yet it keeps upon the trees, but moves, or rather creeps along very flowly. Its food is the leaves of the trees ; it never drinks, and when it rains, hides itfelf. Wherever it fadens with its paws, it is not eafily removed ; it makes, though feldom, a noife like our cats. The Pifmire Eater, is thus called, becaufe he feeds upon nothing but pifmires ; there are two forts, the great and the fmall : the Brazilians call the fird Tamanduai, and the lad Tamanduai Guacu. It is a four-legged creature, of the bignefs of a dog, with a rouna head, long Ihout, fmall mouth, and no teeth. The tongue is roundifh, but fometimes twenty-five inches, nay, two foot and a half long. When it feeds, it Ilretclies out its tongue upon the dunghills, till the pifmires have fettled upon it, and then fwallows them. It has round ears, and a rough tail ; is not nimble, but may be taken with the hand in the field. The fmall one, called Tamanduai Guacu, is of the bignefs of a Brazilian fox, about a foot in length. On the fore-feet it has four crooked claws, two big ones in the midd, and the two lefler on the fides. The head is round, yet pointed at one end, a little bent below ; with a Uttle black mouth with- out teeth. The eyes are very fmall ; the ears dand upright about a finger's length. Two broad black lids run along on both fides of the back ; the hairs on the tail are longer than thofe on the back, the extremity of the tail is without hair, wherewith it fadens to the branches of the trees. The hairs all over the body are of a pale yellow, hard and bright. Its torgue is round, and about eight fingers long. It is a very iivage creature, grafps every thing with its paws, and if you hit it with a dick, fits upright hke a bear, and takes hold of it with its mouth, It deeps all day -long, with its 7i8 nieuhoff's brazil. its head and fore-feet nnder the neck, and roves about in the night time. As often as it drinks, the water fpouts forth immediately through the noftrils. They have alfo a kind of ferpents of about two fathoms long, without legs, with a fkin of various colours, and four teeth. The tongue is fplit in the middle, refembling two arrows, and the poifon is hid in a bladder in its tail. The four-legged creature, called by the Brazilians Tatu and Tatupera, by the Spa- niards, Armadillo, by the Portuguefe, Encuberto, and by the Dutch, Schilt Verken ((hield-hog), becaufe it is defended with fcales like as with an armour, refembles in bignefs and fhape our hogs ; there are feveral forts of them. The uppermofl; part of the body, as well as the head and tail, is covered with bony Ihields, compofed of very fine fcales. It has on the back feven partitions, betwixt each of which appears a dark brown fldn. The head is altogether like that of a hog, with a fharp nofe, wherewith they grub under ground ; fmall eyes, which lie deef) in the head ; a little, but fharp tongue ; dark brown and fliort ears, without hair or fcales : the colour of the whole body inclining to red ; the tail in its beginning is about four fingers thick, but grows by degrees fharp and round to the end, like thofe of our pigs : but the belly, the breaff , and legs are viithout any fcales ; but covered with a fiiin not unlike that of a goofe, and whitifli hair of a finger's length. It is generally very bulky and fat, living upon melons and roots, and does confiderable mifchief in the plantations. It loves to rout under ground, eats rabbtis, and the dead carcafes of birds, or any other carrion : it drinks much, lives for the mod part upon the land, yet loves the water and marfhy places. Its iiefh is fit to be eaten. It is catched like the doe in Holland with the rabbits, by fending a fmall dog abroad, who by his barking, gives notice where it lurks under ground, and fo by digging up the ground it is found and catched. The bats in Brazil, called by the inhabitants Andirika, are of the bignefs of our crows ; they are very fierce, and bite moft violently with their fliarp teeth. They build their nefts in hollow trees and holes. The bird called by the Brazilians Ipekati Apoa, by the Portuguefe Pata, is no more than a goofe ; and for that reafon by the Dutch called a wild-goofe. It is of the bignefs of one of our geefe of about nine months old, and in all other refpefts refembles them. The belly and under part of the tail, as likewife the neck, is cqyered with white feathers ; but on the back to the neck, on the wings and head, the feathers are black intermixed with fome green. There are alfo fome black feathers inter- mixed with the white ones on the neck and belly. They differ from our geefe in this, that they are fomewhat bigger ; their bills refcmble rather thofe of our ducks, but are black, and turned ar the end, and on the top of it grows a broad, round, and black piece of flefli, with white fpeckles. They are conunonly found near the river fide, are very flefhy and well-tafted. The bird by the Brazilians called Toukan, or large bill, is about the bignefs of a wood-pigeon. It has a crop about the bread of ihree or four fingers in compafs, of a falfron colour, with high red-coloured feathers round the edges, wliich are yellow on the bread, but black on the back and all the other parts of the body. Its bill is very large, of the length of a palm of a hand, yellow whhout and red within. It is almoft incredible how fo finall a bird is able to manage fo large a bill, but that it is very thin and light. The bird called by the Brazilians Kokoi, is a kind of a crane, very pleafmg to the fight, as big as our llorks. Tlieir bills are draight and fharp, about fix fingers in length, of a yellowifli colour inclining to green. The neck is fifteen fingers long, the body ten, the tail five : their legs are half-ways covei'ed with leathers, about eight 1 2 fingers nieuhoff's brazil. 719 fingers in length, the retnaining part being fix and an half. The neck and throat is white, both fides of the head black, mixt with afh-colour. On the far and undermoft part of the neck are mofl: delicious, white, long, and thin feathers, fit for plumes : the wings and tail are of an afh-colour, yet mixt with foine white feathers. All along the back you fee long and light feathers, like thofe on the necks, but are of an afh- colour : their flefh is very good, and of a grateful tafte. There is another kind of thefe birds, which is fomewhat bigger than a tame duck. Its bill is ftraight, and fliarp at the end, of the length of four fingers and a half, with a double fet of teeth both above and below : the head and neck (which is two foot long) refembles the crane, with black eyes inclofed in a gold-coloured circle. The body is two foot and a half in length ; the tail, which ftands even with the extremity of the wings, four fingers. The bill is of an alh-colour towards the head, the rtil yellow, inclining to green. The head and upper part of the neck are covered with long pale yellowifh feathers, intermixt with black. On the back and wings it has afh-coloured feathers inclining to yellow : but the legs and feet are dark grey : the flefh of this bird is eatable, and taftes like that of a crane. The bird, called by the Brazilians Jabiru-Guaku, and by the Dutch, Schuur Vogel (or barn-bird), has no tongue, but a very large bill, near feven foot and a half long ; round and crooked towards the end, of a grey colour. On the top of the head is a crown of white and green feathers. The eyes are black, behind each of which are two great concavities inflead of ears. The neck is ten fingers in length, one half part of which, as well as the head, is not covered with feathers, but with an afh coloured, whitifh, rugged fkin. This bird is of the bignefs of a flork, with a fliort black tail, which ftands even with the extremities of the wings. The other part of the neck, and the whole body, is covered with white feathers, and thofe on the neck very long ones : the wings are likewife white, but mixed with fome red. The flefli, if boiled, after the fkin is taken off, is good food, being very white, but fomewhat dry. Brazil produces incredible quantities of other wild fowl of all forts, both great and fmall, fome of which live among the woods, others in the water, but are very good food. Of the beft kind are the thrufnes, called by them Baniodi ; pheafants of divers kinds, called by the barbarians Magnagu, Jaku, and Arakua. Mouton is a bird of the bignefs of a peacock, but has black feathers ; the flefli is very good and tender. Becaufe this country is full of fruit-trees and woody places, it produces abundance of fparrow-hawks, and other hawks, called by the Portuguele Guavilon, and by the Brazilians Teguata and Inage, which arcalways at enmity with the chickens and pigeons. Among thofe that live both in the water and upon the land, the wild ducks claim the precedency ; fome of thofe are fmaller than the European ducks, others much ex- ceed them, being is big as a goofe. They have alfo a fort of fnipes, called Jakana-miri and Jakana-guals.u. Befides thefe there are cranes, quails, and oflriges, and many others of that kind ; the flefh of which is eatable, but not very toothfome. The refl: of thefe birds are very greedy after the amber-gris, which is thrown afhore by the boifterous lea, which they devour before the inhabitants can come thither to gather it. They have alfo abundance of Parakets, or fmall parrots ; thefe never fpeak ; but their parrots are extraordinary fine and large, fome of which learn to fpeak as dif- tinftly as a man. I have feen fome of thefe parrots exprefs every thing what they heard cried in the ftreets very plainly ; and among the refl I faw one, which if put in a bafket upon the floor, would make a dog that belonged to the fame houfe fit up before the baflviti yto NIEraOFl's BRAZIL. bafket, crying out to him, Sit up, fit up, you nafty toad. Neither did this parrot leave off" calling and crying, till the dog came to fit up before the baflcet. It was after- wards prefented to the Queen of Sweden. There is among the refl a certain fmalf bird, no bigger than a joint of a finger, which, notwithflanding this, makes a great noife, and is catched with the hands whilfl: it is fitting among the flowers, from whence it draws its nourifhment. As often as you turn this bird, the feathers reprefent a different colour, which makes the Brazilian women fallen them with golden wires to their ears, as v/e do our ear-rings. The birds here are never deftitute of food, which they always meet with either among the flowers or fruits of the trees, which are never fpoiled here during the winter fcafon. The rivers and lakes of Brazil, as well as the neighbouring fea, furnifhes them with great (lore of all forts of fifli, which are accounted fo wholelbme here, that they are even allowed for thofe that are troubled with agues. The Handing waters near the fea-fide, which fometimes are quite dried up, produce abundance of craw-fifli, tor- toifes, fhrimps, crabs, oyfters, and divers others of this kind, which are all very good food. There are abundance of fifh in Brazil common to the fea and rivers, efpecially dur- ing the rainy feaion ; when a great quantity of the river-water being conveyed into the fea, the fweetnefs of the water allures the fifli into the rivers, where, meeting with abundance of green weeds (the produdl of the bottom of the rivers), they never return to the fea. Among the river fifli, the chiefefl are, the Duja, Prajuba, and Akara-Puku ; the lafi: of which refembles the bell and largeft of our perches. Brazil produces alfo various kinds of infefts, fome of which are of four fingers* length, and an inch thick. They have likewife filk-worms, called by the Brazilians Ifokukus, and their filk, Ifokurenimbo. There are alfo divers forts of fire-flies, vi hich are likewife found in the Eaft Indies, where we fliall give you a farther account of them. Bendes thefe, there are many forts of other flies, hornets, wafps, and bees ; fome of which produce honey, fome none at all. Among other kinds of fpiders there is one of a prodigious bignefs, which is always found either in dunghills, or in the concavities of hollow trees : they call it Nhandu- guaka. I'hefe creatures weave cobwebs like other fpiders ; the fldn is rough and black, provided with Iharp and long teeth. This creature, if provoked, wounds with its poi- fonous fling, which is fo fmall as fcarce to be vifible, and raifes a blueifli tumour, which is very painful, and, if care be not taken in time, occafions an inflammation, attended with luch dangerous fymptoms, as prove afterwards incurable. Near Rio St. Francifco are vaft numbers of a certain fmall infeft not unlike our crickets ; I have been very curious to get fight of this creature, to fatisfy myfelf as to its fhape and refemblance to others of this kind; but though it makes a very (hrill noife, which refembles that of our crickets, I was never able to fee any of them ; for as foon as you approach they defid, fo that you are at a lofs which way to look. They fing fometimes for a quarter of an hour without intermifiion. In the ifland of Java, in the Eafl: Indies, it is commonly heard in the months of February and June. At lafl: I had the good fortune to get one of thefe creatures into my hands, by means of a cer- tain Chincfe woman, after I had often been in fcarch of it, both within and without the city of Batavia. The Javanefe fet two of thefe little creatures a fighting together, and lay money on both fides, as we do at a cock-match. There are alfo abundance of ravenous wild beads in Brazil, fuch as tigers, leopards, .^c. The tigers are extremely fiivage here ; they fall upon beafts, and fometimes upon i^ men. NIEUHOFF i? BRAZIL. 72 I men, of whom feveral were killed by them in my time. A certain Portugaefe had a fugar-mill very pleafantly fituated near a wood, whither we ufed to go to divert our- felves fometimes. The Portuguefe fitting one time with four more of his friends in the houfe, with the windows drawn up for the conveniency of the land air, a dog be- longing to the houfe, who had ventured too far into the adjacent wood, was purfued by a tiger, fo that to fave his life he leapt into the v/indow to feek for fheiter near his mafter ; but the tiger clofely purfuing him, leapt alio through the window into the room, where the door being fhut, he tore two of thofe there prefent in pieces before the reft could make their efcape, and afterwards went his way. There is another fort of favage beaft in thofe parts, called by fome of our people, Jan-over-Zee (or jack beyond fea), which furpafles all others in nimblenefs, and tears all to pieces it meets with. Brazil has alfo great plenty of cattle, but the flefli will not keep above twenty-four hours after it is dreffed. The Dutch cut oif the fat, and cut the lean in thin flices, and dry it in the fun like filh. No butter is to be made here, becaufe the milk turns to curds immediately ; the Dutch butter is drawn out of a vefl'el like oil. Their hogs are fmall and black, but very well tafted, and wholefome ; there is an- other kind of amphibious hogs, by the Portuguefe called Kapiverres ; they are very near as black as the others, and good food. There is another four-legged creature in Brazil, called by the inhabitants Taperete, and by the Portuguefe, Antes ; its flefli has the tafte of beef, but fomewhat finer. It is about the bignefs of a calf, but fliaped like a hog ; it fleeps all day among the woods, and feeks for belly-timber in the night : its food is grafs, fugar-reeds, cabbages, and fuch like. They have likewife good ftore of goats, called by them Pakas and Kotias, and hares and rabbits, which do not give way in goodnefs to thofe of Europe. There is alfo an excellent kind of lizards, called by the inhabitants Vuana and Teju, which are accounted a dainty bit. The fifh in Brazil are no lefs confiderable for the fupply of our plantations, than the cattle, which are on the coafts of Brazil, but efpecially in Pernambuko, where they are found in fuch plenty, that at one draught they catch fometimes two or three thoufand fine filh in the four or five fummer months, for during the rainy feafon they catch but few. There are certain dift rifts along the fea-coaft whither the fifh moft refort; fome of thofe belong to the inhabitants, the reft to the company, and are farmed at a certain rate per annum. The lakes, as well as the bays, are ftored with an incredible multitude of fifti ; the firft are, by the Portuguefe, called Alagoas ; and the beft they produce are the Sindia, Queba, and Noja, all without fcales. And though the fifh which are catched in the lakes are not fo much efteemed as the river-fifh, never- thelefs are they not much behind them in goodnefs, becaufe thefe lakes are not always ftanding- waters, but intermixed with feveral rivers. Some of thefe fifh they dry in the fun. The chiefeft of this kind are thofe called bv the Brazilians Kurima Parati, and by the Dutch inhabitants. Herders. They abound no lefs in fea-fifh of all forts. The fifh, called by the Brazilians Karapantangele, which is not unlike our perch, has the preference among them. And as the rivers furnifli infinite numbers of fifh, fo they are generally fatter and better tafted than the fea-fifli. Thofe which are catched in thofe fifheries near the fea-fhore, are, for the moft part, faked, and carried from thence into the country, for the ufe of the fugar-mills, which caufe great plenty among them. The craw-fifh, which are in great quantities near the rivers, and in the marfliy grounds, ferve likewife for food to the Brazilians and negroes, and fome of our people like them tolerably well. VOL. XIV. 42 It 722 nieuhoff's brazil. It is further to be obferved, that whereas a confiderable number of cattle, during the war, was run aftray out of the parks into the forefts and woods beyond the river of St. Francis, it was thought convenient by the great council of the company here, to agree with certain perfons to catch this cattle, and bring it to the Receif, in order to be killed for the ufe of the inhabitants. The time of the faid contract being expired, it was con- fulted, whether the fame Ihould be renewed ; but it being apparent that there were not enough left to quit coft, the fame was laid afide, and this refolution fent to the council of Nineteen. For In the mean-while the inhabitants near Rio St. Francifco and Rio Grande, having applied themfelves with great induflry to the breeding of cattle, their pai"ks were fo well Hocked by this time, that they not only furnifhed the inhabitants of the Receif, but alfo the fugar-mills, with plenty of meat, which was bought at the rate of three and four-pence per pound in the country ; befides that, they provided the gar- rifons with the fame for a twelve-month, after the ftore-houfes of the Receif were emptied ; and notvvithftanding this, the inhabitants of thofe parts were not out of debt, when thofe of Pernambuko and Parayba were involved over head and ears, which (hews what advantage they reaped from the breeding of cattle ; and that if the Dutch Brazil had continued in peace, thofe parks might have furniftied all the garrifons with meat, without impairing their (lock for breeding ; which, together with the great plenty of fifli, are the two main pillars of the ftate of Brazil. Notwithftanding all which, it is certain that the inhabitants of the Dutch Brazil can- not be provided with fufficient maintenance, without a yearly fupply from Europe, as well of eatables as other commodities, as has been found by experience, to the great detriment of the company ; after our flore-houfes were exhaufted by the feveral expe- ditions againfl Angola, Meranhaon, and other places. In the rivers and lakes here are alfo found crocodiles, by the Brazilians called Jakare, and in the Eafl Indies, Kaymans. They are like the African crocodiles, but not quite fo big, feldom exceeding five foot in length. They lay twenty or thirty eggs bigger than geefe eggs, which are eaten by the Brazilians, Portuguefe and Dutch, as well as the flefli. In the feas near the coaft of Brazil, they meet alfo fometimes with great lampreys. Before the bridge from the Receif to Maurice-Town was built, one of this kind of a confiderable bignefs did lurk near that paflage, where the boats ufed to pafs over from one fide to the other, and fnatched all that fell in this way, (both men and dogs that fwam fometimes after the boat,) into the water : but at a certain time, by the fudden falling of the tide, being got aground with the foremoft part of the body, he was with much ado brought afhore. The diftrid of Pernambuko does alfo abound in various forts of fruits, as well as all the other parts of Brazil, of which we fhall fay more hereafter. Upon the captainfhip of Pernambuko, borders to the north the captainfliip of Tama- rika, which owes its name to an ifland of the fame name, being the chiefell part of this diftrift, which however extends near thirty-five leagues along the fea-coaft on the continent. The ifland of Tamarika lies two leagues to the north of Pomerello, in the fea ; being parted from the continent by the river Tamarika, its mofl fouthern point lying under 7° 58' fouth latitude. It is from fouth to north about two leagues long, and its circuit near feven. To the jurifdidlion of this ifle did alfo belong Goyana, Capavaribi, Teru- kupa, and Abray on the continent. Formerly it had but few inhabitants, and fcarce any houfes, though it is a very pleafant ifle, and tolerably fertile, producing brazil-wood, cocoa-nuts, cotton, fugar-reeds, melons, and fuch like j befides wood for firing, and freft NIEUHOFFS BRAZIL. 723 frefh water for the convetiiency of the Receif : it abounds likewife in wood both for building of houfes and (hipping. This ifland was much infefted with wild beafts, which did great mifchief to the fugar-reeds : this moved Peter Pas, direftor of the captainfhip of Itamarika, to make his appHcation to Count Maurice and the great council in 1 647, to know their pleafure, whether they fhould difpofe of thofe beafts by contrad, to fuch as would be at the charge of catching of them, or whether they ftiould be taken and killed for the ufe of the garrifons ; but this was rejefted by the council, who enjoined the inhabitants not to kill thofe beafts in the open fields, unlefs they ftiould break into their plantations, it being for the intereft of the company to preferve them in cafe of a neceflity : the damage which from thence might accrue to the fugar reeds, being to be prevented by furrounding their plantations with pales and ftakes. The ifland is looked upon as of the greateft confequence to us, it having been pro- pofed by fome to transfer the feat of the Dutch-Brazil from the Receif thither ; but the directors of the company did not agree to it, confidering that at that time this ifland was quite defolate ; whereas upon the Receif, were ftore-houfes, magazines, ware-houfes, and fuch like buildings ready to their hands, befides that the place was much more pleafant, fertile and ftronger ; and the harbour much more convenient for fiiips : the river Tamarika on the other hand being not navigable, but for fmall vefl"els, by reafon of the fliallownefs of the harbour, which was noted for ftiipwrecks. The defeft of frefli water in the Receif, in which this ifle abounds, may be fupplied from the river Biberibi ; befides that, they had feveral bafons with frefli water within the Receif, for their prefent ufe. During the war with the Portuguefe we were fenfible of the conveniences we re- ceived from this ifland, by reafon of its ftrength both by art and nature, which might ferve as a fave retreat upon all emergencies ; befides, that its prefervation was abfolutely neceflTary for the Receif, which was fupplied from thence with fifli, and feveral other forts of provifions. Upon the banks of the river at the fouth entrance of the harbour, we had built a quadrangular fort called Orange. It was provided with a goodly wall, but the ditch was not very deep, and for the moft part without water, for which reafon it was ftrengthened with pallifadoes. On the north-fide we had a hornwork, but much de- cayed ; within the body of the fort was a powder-vault, and other conveniences for the bedding of foldiers. Several batteries were raifed upon the walls, mounted upon fix brafs and as many iron great guns. In the ifland near the entrance of the river, clofe by a morafs full of thorn-bufties, was a fmall town, moft inhabited by foldiers, called by the Portuguefe Noftra Senhora de la Conceptiano. Upon a hanging-rock, juft by, was an old redoubt ereded by the Portuguefe, called by the fame name, which, toge- ther with the whole ifland, was taken by the Dutch, under the command of Colonel Schoppe from the Portuguefe, and the place, after his name, called Schoppe's Town. This fort was afterwards by the Dutch clofed up on the backfide towards the church, fo that it afterwards ferved both for the defence of the town and the harbour, as the Block- houfe on the north-fide covered the gates. There were then eleven pieces of cannon mounted upon it. At the north entrance of the harbour, was another redoubt, which defended that paflage on that fide, with three iron cannon. One Mr. Dortmont, go- vernor of Itamarika, found under the before-mentioned rock in 1645, ^^ ^e was digging a well, a fpring of frefli water, which proved very ufeful for the garrifon, becaufe it could not be cut off by the enemy. Somewhat higher up the river Tamarika, lies an ifland called Magioppe, where are found abundance of Mandihoka roots. You may go quite round this ifland in barks ; it having a kind of a harbour on both ends, viz. to the fouth and north, but the firft is 4 z 2 the 724 nieuhoff's brazil. the beft ; becaufe there rifes from the northern fhore of the continent, a fhelf, which reaches very clofe to the ifland, the channel betwixt both not having above ten or twelve foot 'water. The only harbour flt for ufe thereabouts is the fouth entrance of the river, which makes Tamarika an ifland, where fliips that drew fourteen or fifteen foot water, may pafs through ; there is no convenient anchorage. That end, where the river re- turns into the fea, is by the Dutch called the northern entrance, and by the Portuguefe, Katuamma. Betwixt Pomerello and the river Tamarika, a river comes from the continent, fit for barges, called Marafarinha ; and half a league within the mouth of the river Tamarika, another falls likewife from the continent, called Garaflbu, but is of little moment. From thence to the north, are feveral other rivers near the fea-fliore, which are navivable with barges, for the conveniency of the fugar-mills, of which there are feveral thereabouts. A league and a half further to the north of the north entrance of Tamarika, is a noted point of land called by the Portuguefe Punto Pedra, furrounded vnth a Receif, betwixt which you may pafs with barges and yachts. A league further to the north from this point, and three leagues to the north-weft of Tamarika, is the fmall river Goyana, under 7" 46', which difembogues in two branches in the bay ; at the entrance lies a great rock, where is great ftore of fea-fowl. Before it lies a great Receif, but within it are fo many fhelves that renders the paffage very dangerous. About two leagues and a half beyond the river Goyana, to the north, is a great river, called Auyay, but the entrance is fo choaked up with fands, that there is fcarce any paflage for barges. This river fends forth feveral branches into the country, upon one of which to the north, lies the village of Maurice, and upon the fouthern branch the village Auyay. Among others, Porto Francifco lies in a creek three long leagues to the north of the river Auyay ; and five leagues to the north-weft of the fame river, an unnavigable river called Grammana, befides feveral other rivulets. About a league and a half to the north-weft of the river Grammana, is the Cabo Blanco, or White Cape ; and three leagues from thence to the north-weft, the cape of Parayba, being a long point of land, with a large adjacent bay. The whole coaft from Pomerello to the cape of Parayba, is covered with receifs or rocks, which, lying for the moft part about half a league from the ftiore, and the water between them being generally very fmooth, affords an eafy paflage to barges, even in tempeftuous weather ; when it is almoft impoflible for fhips to pafs without the rocks, by reafon of the vio- lence of the current from the northern and the fouthern winds, which blow there con- tinually. Three leagues within the mouth of the river Goyana is a town of the fame name, where is kept the court of judicature of this captainlhip. There are five or fix fugar- mills thereabouts, fituated upon the banks of the river, for the more commodious tranfportation of fugar in barges to Pernambuko. This country produces likewife brazil-wood, ginger, cotton, and Indian nuts ; the people called Petiguaves inhabit here, though this whole traft of land, as for as Cabo Blanco, is not very populous, having only a few villages, inhabited by the Brazilians. The ifle of Tamarika has feveral landing-places on the river fide, the chicfeft are ; Os Markos and Pedreiros, where the river is narroweft ; Tapafima and Kamboa of Domingos Rebeyro ; the great Makqueira and Kamboa of Conrad Pauli ; in which places the enemy landed in that ifland ; the pafs near the north entrance ot Topowa, and the ifland Tapofoka, where with one fingle fliip you may defend the paflTage from the nieuhoff's brazil. I^S the rivers Tujukapape and Mafferandaku, as likewife from the fea. For the reft, the fhore all along the river being very marfhy and full of Manga trees, is of a very diffi- cult accefs. The fhore towards the fea-fide is very flat, but woody, which, together with the fands that are at fome diftance in the fea, makes the approach of fhips very dangerous on that fide. Formerly the court of judicature of the captainlhip was kept in this ifland but was afterwards transferred from thence, as we told you before, to the town of Goyana and Kapivaribi on the continent, becaufe thefe places were both more populous, and more fugar-mills were built thereabouts, the ground being much better here than in the ifland. In my time there were five judges belonging to this court, three of which lived at Goyana, and the other two in the ifle of Itamarika. However, this court was afterwards Hkewife removed from Goyana. In the year 164 1, Mr. Peter Pas was dire£lor of the captainfhip of Itamarika for the Weft India com- pany, and Captain Sluiter commander-in-chief over the foldiers. This captainfliip has derived its name from the capital city, which has borrowed hers of the river Parayba, upon which it is fituate. It is one of the moft northerly captainfhips, about five leagues diftant from the fea. It was formerly in the poflTeflion of the French, who were in 1585 chafed from thence and feveral other harbours, by the Portuguefe general Martin Leytan. Five leagues upwards the river Parayba, is a city founded by the Portuguefe, and after Philip King of Spain, called Filippen, and NolTa Senhora de Nives, otherwiie Pa- rayba, from the river Parayba ; which name was by the Dutch, after they had in November 1633 conquered the whole captainftiip, changed into that of Frederick's Town, after Frederick Henry Prince of Orange. This city has been but lately built by the Portuguefe, and had feveral ftately houfes with marble pillars, the reft being only of ftone. Here is kept the court of judicature of this captainfhip. Before the time of the rebellion of the Portuguefe, this place was inhabited as well by the Portu- guefe as Dutch, being much frequented by the inhabitants of the circumjacent country, who ufed to exchange their fugar for what other commodities they ftood in need of, which was afterwards from thence tranfported to other places. Within the mouth of the river Parayba, were three very confiderable forts. One on the fouth point, by the Portuguefe called Catharine, but by Count Maurice aftei-- wards named Margaret after his fifter. It was defended with five goodly baftions, and a hornwork without. The fort called St. Antonio by the Portuguefe, was built upon a fmall ifland, which by a narrow branch was feparated from the north point. This is only the remainder of a large four-fquare fort, formerly erefted by the Portuguefe, which was afterwards rafed by the Dutch, part of it having been waflied away by the river. It is furrounded with pallifadoes and a good ditch, fupplied with water from the before-named branch of the river ; the walls are very ftrong, and upon a battery are mounted fix iron pieces of cannon. It may be defended by the cannon both from the city of Parayba, and from the fort Margaret, lying jult oppofite to it on the fouth-fide, which is the reafon it was always but carelefsly guarded by the Portuguefe. The third fort lies upon a triangular ifland, called Reftinga, not far from thence, more upwards the river. It was ftrengthened with pallifadoes, and upon the batteries were mounted five brafs, and as many iron pieces of cannon. The captainftiip of Parayba is watered and divided by two confiderable rivers, viz. the Parayba and Mongoapa, otherwife called St. Domingo. The great river of Parayba lies under the fixth degree twenty- four minutes, four leagues to north of Cabo Blanco, and difcharges itfelf in two branches into the fea, being feparated by a large fand-bank. One 726 nieuhoff's brazil. One is called the northern, and the other the fouthern entrance. From the lad extends a rocky ridge as far as Cabo Blanco, and within the river lies a fand-bank quite crofs to the fort Margaret. This river is very fliallow during the fummer time, but in the winter feafon the waters rife to that height that they overflow all the adjacent country, fometimes to the great lofs of men and cattle. Two leagues beyond this river to the north, is a bay which affords a very fafe ftation to the largeft ffiips. It is by the Portuguefe called Porto Lucena, and by the Dutch the Red Land, the grounds being red hereabout. There is very good anchor- age here at five and fix fathom water, and the country near it affords very good frefh water, which is the reafon why the Dutch fhips bound fcir Holland from the Receif, ufed to ftay for one another's coming in this bay, and to provide themfelves with frelh water. Half a league farther to the north, under 6° 34', the river Mongoapa, or Mon- goanawapy, exonerates itfelf into the fea. This river is much larger towards its fource than at the mouth, the banks on both fides being full of briars, bufhes, and Manga- trees. Before its entrance lies a receif, and at the very mouth two dangerous fand- banks ; it has three fathom water at low tide. About two fmall leagues to the north of the river Mongoapa, is a bay called by the Portuguefe Baliia de Treycano, or freafon, where at about a league diftant from the fhore, is eleven or twelve fathom water. Five leagues to the north of this bay, you meet with the river Barra Conguon or Konayo, which is fcarce paflable for yatchts. About a league and a half from thence is a large bay of about two leagues in length, called Pernambuko ; and five leagues beyond it to the north, the river Jan de Sta, or Eftau. The natives of Parayba inhabit about feven villages, the chiefell; of which is called Pinda Una, which in 1634 contained about fifteen hundred inhabitants, whereas each of the others had fcarce three hundred ; each of thefe comprehending not above five or fix very long buildings, with a great many doors, but very fmall ones. The chief commodities of this captainfliip are fugar, brazil-wood, tobacco, hides, cotton, and fuch like. The fugar-reeds did bear extremely well, becaufe they were tranfplanted into frefli grounds. Whilft the diftrid of Parayba was under our jurif- diftion, there were above one and twenty fugar-mills on both fides of the banks of the river, eighteen of which fent away every year four thoufand cherts of fugar. Near the river-fide, the country is low and plain, but not far from thence rifes by degrees, 'and affords a very agreeable variety of hills and valleys. The flat countr}-, which is alfo the moft fertile, is diftinguifhed into feveral divifions, fomeof which have borrowed their names from fmall rivers which run through them ; as for infl:ance, Gramamma, Tapoa, Tibery, Ingeby, Monguappe, Increry, Kamaratuba, and feveral more. All thofe countries are extremely fertile, occafioned by the overflowing of the river Parayba. Their products are fugar, barley, turkey-wheat, potatoes, ananas, coco- nuts, melons, oranges, citrons, bananas, pakovas, markomas, cucumbers, and all other neceffaries for the fufl:enance of men and beafts. They have here a kind of wild pears, called kajous, which are very juicy and well tafted ; within is a certain bean or fmall nut, the rind of which is bitter, but the kernel fweet if roaited in the afhes. The pear is very cooling, but the nut has a contrary quality. Towards the end of November 1634, the Dutch undertook the expedition againft Parayba, their forces being embarked in thirty-two ffiips under the command of Colonels Schoppe, Artisjofl^i, Hinderfon, Stachouwer, and Carpenticr. The whole fleet was divided into two fquadrons, the firfl: confifted of one and twenty fliips, in which I . were NIEUHOFF S BRAZIL. 727 were nineteen hundred and forty-five men, the other of eleven yatchts, with four hun- dred and nine men. Schoppe was the firfl that landed fix hundred men, and advanced towards the enemy, who betook themfelves to their heels, leaving their arms and clothes behind them ; Anthony Albuquerque their general himfelf fcarce efcaping their hands. In the mean- while, the reft being likewife got afhore, three companies, under the conduct of Gafper Ley, marched direftly to the fort of Margaret, and intrenched himfelf near the fort, whilft Schoppe kept all along the fliore, and Artisjofki ported himfelf on the right-fide, in fight of the garrifon. At the fame time Mr. Lichthart attacked the fort in the fmall ifland Reftinga, which he took by force, and put the garrifon to the fword. By this time Schoppe had raifed a battery againft the fort, from whence he fo forely galled the befieged, that their commander Simon d'Albe- querque furrendered the place. Hereupon the fort of St. Antonio was fummoned to furrender ; Maglianes the governor defired three days delay, which being denied, he marched away fecretly by night, le^fving the place to Lichthart, who found there five great brafs pieces, and nineteen iron pieces of cannon. The fame night our forces marched towards the city of Parayba, being fixteen hun- dred ftrong, and having palfed a fmall branch of the river called Tambra Grande, made themfelves mafters of it without any oppofition : the Spanifh general Banjola, who commanded there with two hundred and fifty men only, having left the place before, and being retired to Goyana, after he had either funk or nailed up the cannon, and fet fire to three fhips and two warehoufes, in which were confumed three thou- fand cherts with fugar. The fort of St. Catharine being much decayed, was ordered by Count Maurice to be repaired, and the ditch to be enlarged and deepened ; giving it the name of Margaret, after his firter. The fort of St. Antonio was rafed for the greateft part, there being only one bulwark left for the defence of the north point of the river. The fort Reifinga was ordered to be furrounded with new pallifadoes, and the convent of Parayba fortified with a wall and outwork ; and the command thereof given to Elias Harkman, together with the government of the whole captainfhip. The captainfhip of Potigi, or Potingi or Poteingi, is otherwife, by the Portuguefe, called Rio Grande, from a river of the fame name : the Dutch call it North Brazil, in refpeft of the more fouthern captainfhips of Brazil. It borders to the fouth upon Pa- rayba, and to the north upon the captainfhip of Siara ; though the Portuguefe geo- graphers extended its bounds as far as the ifland Maranhaon. The French were once mafters of this captainfhip ; till 1597, they were chafed from thence by the Spanifh commander, Feliciano Cre9a de Karvalafho. It has four divi- fions, named after fo many rivers, that run through them ; viz. Kunhao, Goyana, Mompobu and Potegy. And though this diftrift has been much neglecled by the Por- tuguefe, yet does it produce plenty of wild-fowl and fifh, which are fo lufcious, that they commonly eat them only with lemon-juice or vinegar, without oil. There is an incredible number of fifh in the lake Goraires ; befides which, abundance of fa- rinha is planted here. This part of the country ftood us in good ftead during the late rebellion of the Portuguefe, our garrifons in Parayba, and other places, being fup- plied from thence with good rtore of flefli and fifh. Above the river Rio Grande is a town, of no great moment, called Amfterdam ; the inhabitants live by planting farinha and tobacco, and fifhing. Higher up in the coun- try Uve fome Moradores or hufbandmen, who cultivate the grounds ; but on the north fide of Rio Grande are but few inhabitants. The river Rio Grande, i. e. the Great River, is fo called by the Portuguefe from its bignefs, but by the Brazilians, Potigi or Poteingi. The mouth of this river lies under 728 nieuhoff's brazil. under 50° 42' fouthern latitude, three leagues from Punto Negro, coming from tht weft fide of the continent. It difembogues four leagues about the fort Keulen, called by the Portuguefe IVes Reyos : it bears fhips of great burthen ; but the river Kunhao in the fame captainflaip is only navigable with barges and yachts. 'Ihe bays of this captainfhip are, Bahia Formofa, Punto Negro, Ponto de Pipas, and the bay of Martin TiilTen. The bay of Ginapabo lies beyond Rio Grande to the north ; and beyond that a river called Guafiavi, upon which, near the mouth, lies the village Atape Wappa. Near to the north you meet with the river Siria Mixui ; and near the village of Natal, and the fort of Tres Reyos, pafles a river called the Croft; River, which arifes out oi a fmall lake in Rio Grande. Over-againil the fame fort, a frelh river falls into the great river, betwixt two land-banks, and not far from thence another fa It- water river. The fort Keulen was four-fquare, built upon a rock or point of a receif, at fome diftance from the fhore, at the mouth of the river Receif; being furrounded with water, as often as it is flowing water, fo that at high tide there is no coming at it but with boats. In the midft of this fort is a fmall chapel, where in 1645 ''"'^ 1646 our people found a wall about a foot and a half wide on the top, but at the bottom three foot, cut within a rock, which brings frefh fupplies of good and fweet water every tide ; with an ordinary tide two hundred and twenty-five, and at fpring-tide about three hundred and fifty quarts ; which is more than fufEcient for the ufe of the garri- fon, in cafe of a fiege. The fort is built of fquare ftone ; being towards the fliore defended with two half baftions, in form of hornworks. In the year 1 646, there was an artillery of twenty-nine, as well brafs as iron pieces of cannon in the place, and provided with a good undervault, and convenient lodgments for the foldiers. This fort was in 1633 taken by the Dutch, under the command of Matthias van Keulen, one of the governors of the company, who being affifted by feveral noted captains, viz. Byma, Kloppenburg, Lichthart, Garftman, and Mansfelt van Keulen, fet fail thither with eight hundred and eight men, embarked in four Ihips and feven yachts, and made himfelf mafter of it,, and the whole captainfliip at the fame time ; fince which it changed its name Tres Reyos into that of Keulen, from the commander- in-chief of this expedition. The Tapoyers (or mountaineers) ufe commonly twice a-year, efpecially when the dry feafon puts them in want of frefli water, to make an inroad into this captainfliip ; there being a conftant enmity betwixt them and the Portuguefe. It happened in July 1645, that thefe Tapoyers being advertifed that the Portuguefe intended to revolt from us, and had aftually begun the fame in Pernambuko, did, under the conduft of one of their leaders, called Jacob Rabbi, after feveral provocations given them by the Portuguefe, make an incurfion into Kunhao, where they killed thirty-fix perfons in a fugar-mill belonging to one Gonfalvo d'Olivera. From thence they marched to a cer- tain place, where the Portuguefe had caft up a line for their defence, which they made themfelves mafters of, and put the Portuguefe to the fword. The Brazilians told us, that this had been done in requital of what had been done to fome of thofe mountaineers by one Andrew Vidal, in Serinhaim, after quarter given them before, of which we fhall fay more hereafter. Since which time, the Portuguefe have laid this trad defolate, which the Dutch once had a mind to re-people, and to put it in the fame condition as the Portuguefe had poflTeflTed it, but for want of people that defign was fain to be laid afide. The NIEUHOFF S BRAZIL. 729 The captainfliip of Slara is one of the moft northerly diftrifts of Brazil, bordering upon Maranhoon to the north upon the river Siara. It is of no great extent, its whole compafs being not above ten or twelve leagues. The river Siara, which rifes deep in the continent, difembogues about feven leagues and a half to the north of the bay Mangorypa, under three degrees forty minutes fou- thern latitude. The native inhabitants of this captainfhip, according to the report of thofe that have frequently vifited ir, are very large of ftature, with ugly features, long hair, and black fkin ; except the fpace betwixt the eyes and mouth. They have holes in their . ears, which hang downwards upon the flioulders ; fome make holes in their lips, fome in their nofes, in which they wear ftones as an ornament. Their food is farinha, wild fowls, fifli, and fruit. They drink moft water, but make likewife a certain liquor out of farinha ; and of late began to be ufed to drink good (tore of brandy, though it was exprefsly forbidden to bring it into the villages, to keep them from the ex- .ceflive ufe of flrong liquors. The country produces fugar-reeds, chryftal, cotton, pearls, fait, and feveral other commodities. Amber-gris is alfo found on the lea-fliore. The inland part of the country was in 1630 governed by one of their own Kings, called Algodoi ; in fome refped; tributary to the Portuguefe, who had built a fort upon the river Siara, and made themfelves mafters of the whole fea-coaft thereabouts ; notwithflanding which they were in continual broils with one another, till 1638 this fort and the whole country was taken by the Dutch from the Portuguefe, in the following manner. Count Maurice and the council being folicited by the natives of that country to make themfelves mailers of the Portuguefe fort on that fide, and to deliver them from the oppreffion they lay under at that time, they oifering their afliftance, and giving two young lads of their beft families, as pledges of their fidelity, this condition was refolved upon. The chief command over the troops defigned for this exploit was conferred on Colonel John Garftman, a man of more than ordinary conducl in martial affairs, though, as the cafe then flood, this enterprife was not likely to meet with any confiderable difficulties ; being affured of the afliflance of the Brazilians, who bore an old hatred to the Portuguefe, and were acquainted with the flrength and condition both of their forces and places. Garftman being provided with fhips, men, ammu- nition, and all other neceffaries requifite for fuch an expedition, fet fail towards the river Siara ; where being met by the Algodoi, or King, with white enfigns in token of peace, and having landed his men, two hundred of the natives joined with them. With thofe he marched diretlly to the fort, which after a brave refiflance from the Portuguefe, who killed fome of his men, he took by ftorm, and made mofl of the gar- rifon prifoners, among whom were fome commanders of note. They found good flore of cannon and artillery in the place. Since that time, the Dutch built a fmall fort upon the Siara, unto which they gave likewife the name of Siara, which was provided with a garrifon of betwixt thirty and forty foldiers only ; not fo much for the defence of the country, as to maintain a good correfpondency with the Brazilians, who, being very numerous in thofe parts, might do us confiderable fervice in time of war. It was upon this confideration, that the great council always commanded their officers, fent thither, to cultivate a go-d underflanding with them ; and at feveral times fent them fome fmall prefents, which however proved ineftedual in the end, for in 1644 they attacked and killed feveral VOL. XIV. 5 A qi 73° NIEUHOFF S BHAZIL. of our men at Komefy, (a place about thirty leagues from Siara,) as we fhall hear anon. For the Brazilians being, in 164.1, increafed to fuch a number in Siara, that the villages thereabouts were not able to contain them without great inconveniency, whereas the diftrift of Rio Grande was almoft deftitute of inhabitants, and confequently not in a condition to oppofe an enemy ; one Andrew Uliifs propofed to the great council to build a village in Rio Grande, for the ufe of fuch as intended to fettle there out of Siara, defiring to be conftituted chief of the faid village. Count Maurice and the great council, being informed of the inclinations of thofe of Siara, who were willing to fettle in Rio Grande, their ancient place of abode, and confidering the benefit that was likely to accrue to the company, from the fettlement of thofe Brazilians fo near at hand, granted Uliifs's requeft, wifliing him to bring thither as many of the Brazilians of Siara as he thought convenient, for the compafs of a village of which he was made chief or captain. Things being thus fettled, they chofe, with the approbation of our diredtors, certain chiefs or heads out of the moil ancient families of each divifion, called Refidoor by the Portuguefe, and certain judges ; as for inflance, in Goyana, Domingoi, Fernandes, and Karapeva ; in Parayba, Peter Potty ; and in Rio Grande, Antonio Perapeva. Notwithftanding all this, the Brazilians of Siara revolted againft the Dutch, in 1 644 furprifed the garrifon in the fort, which they raifed, and killed the commander-in-chief, Gideon Morritz, with the whole garrifon, befides all the work- men belonging to the falt-pits near the river Upanemma, who were all cut in pieces by thefe barbarians. A certain mailer of a (hip, with a captain, lieutenant, and fome foldiers, who hap- pened to come afhore in a boat to fetch fome frefli provifions, being ignorant of their treachery, were alfo put to the flaughter, three feamen having the good fortune to efcape with their lives into the wood. Some laid the caufe of this rebellion at the door of the Portuguefe and Brazilians of Maranhaon, bordering upon them ; but if we fearch into the true fource of this evil, it mufl be attributed to the mifcarriage of our own officers, who, by their hard ufage, had forced the inhabitants to revenge themfelves for the injuries received at their hands. Thus much concerning the captainfhips of the Dutch Brazil ; we will, in the next place, give you an account of all the memorable tranfaftions that happened betwixt the Dutch and Portuguefe in Brazil, during our Hay there : after I have reprelented to you the excellency and convenient fituation of this country, together with the eccle- fiallical ftate of the Dutch Brazil. Brazil is a country excellently well qualified by nature for the producing of all things which are generally found in the Weft Indies, under or near the fame climate ; except that hitherto no gold or filver mines have been difcovered here worth taking notice of. But next to gold and filver, the fugar claims the precedency here before all other commodities. Among all the harbours and places of the Weft Indies, there is not one that can compare with Brazil, either for the produft or conveniency of tranfportation of fugar ; the whole coaft of Brazil being full of fmall rivers, which, flowing through the adjacent valleys, difembogues in the fea ; from whence the fugar- mills, built in the valleys, reap the benefit of faving vaft charges, which elfe muft be beftowed upon labourers and carriages ; whereas thefe rivers drive the mills, ferve for the tranfportation of fugar to other places, and furnilh them at an eafy rate with what commodities they ftand in need of; all which conveniencies, as they are not to be met with in any other place of the Weft Indies, lb no fugar-mills could be erefted I there nieuhoff's brazil. 731 there with any profpect of profit. The exportation of fugar from Brazil into Europe and Africa is likewife performed with much more eafe than fi-om any other places in the Weft Indies ; for the fituation of Brazil (being the moft eaftern part of all America) is fuch, as could not be more conveniently contrived by human art or nature for the tranfportation of fo general and agreeable a commodity as fugar, into all the other parts of the world ; confidering thofe two excellencies of Brazil, together with its vafl extent, it is moft certain, that, provided it were well peopled, it might command both the North and Ethiopian Seas, and fpread its commerce over all parts of the world ; nay, it might extend its conquefts both to the eaft and weft, or at leaft efta- blifh faftories there, for the conveniency of traffic. To prove which, it is to be obferved : That all Eaft India fliips, both going and coming, muft pafs by the coaft of Brazil ; and as thofe fhips, in their voyages thither, are often forced to touch upon this coaft, fo in their return nothing could be more commodious for them, than to be fupplied with frelh provifions here. From Brazil you may fail, in fourteen days, to the Caribbee Iflands, and in the fame time, or a little longer, to Sierra Leona, on the coaft of Guinea. It is impofTible to enter deep into the great South Sea, (whereabouts a great part of the terreftrial globe remains as yet undifcovered,) unlefs you take in frefh provifions and firing in Brazil, or expofe yourfelf to the greateft hazards imaginable in fo long a voyage, as is fufficiently evident from the journals of OHver Van North, Spilbergen, Le Maire, and John I'Heremite. And experience has taught us, fince Mr. Brower's voyage to Chili, how eafy the paflage is betwixt Brazil and the South Sea ; for he loft not fo much as one ftiip out of four, and very few died in the whole voyage. Brazil enjoys likewife the advantage of a very wholefome climate ; for though it lies betwixt the equinoftial line and the tropic of Capricorn, and confequently is fubje£t to burning heats, yet are the fame much allayed by the winds, that blow out of the eafl from the fea, their free palTage being not interrupted by any mountains or iflands ; which is the reafon, that in Brazil the fame diftempers are rarely to be met with, which reign fo frequently in Angola, Guinea, St. Thomas, and feveral other places, where the eaft winds cannot aftbrd them the fame advantage. A plague is a thing unknown in Brazil, in which it excels all other countries ; though they are not free from continual putrid fevers, caufed by the hot and moift air, and the exceffive ufe of raw fruits. Thofe that are bound for the coaft of Brazil, ought to have a fpecial regard to the feafon of the year, which regulates the winds and ftream thereabouts j and to be very careful to fail above the harbour whither they are bound ; for if they mifs, and come below it, they lofe their aim, and muft ftay till the next turn of the wind and ftream. For it is obfervable, that on the coaft of Brazil, the ftream runs from February till paft July, conftantly northerly, during which time there is no pafllng from the north to the fouth ; but after thofe months are paft, the ftream turns, and from the beginning of September to the latter end of November runs as violently to the fouth as it did to the north before, and confequently there is no failing from the north to the fouth, no more than before from the fouth to the north. The winds here turn with the ftream ; and at the beginning of March, blow fouth-fouth-eaft, and fouth-eaft. And like as the ftream changes its current till September, fo the winds continue in the eaft, and blovt- till that time out of the eafl-fouth-eaft. For there are but two winds that reign along this coaft, viz. the fouth-eaft and north-eaft winds ; according to which, fhips muft regulate their courfe here. 5 A 2 The 73* nieuhoff's brazil. The ecclefiaftical ftate of the Dutch Brazil was, in my time, thus ordered : Before the infurreftion of the Portuguefe, there were, to the fouth of the Receif, five Proteflant churches ; viz. in Rio St. Francifco, Porto Calvo, Serinhaim, the cape St. Auftin, and St. Anthony ; though thefe were feldom altogether provided with miniflers, becaufe that fome or other of them returned into Holland after their limited time was expired. In the ifle of Tamarika and fort Orange, was at that time n board the fhip called the Love from Brazil for Zeeland, and afterwards from UHfli- men went to Lifbon. He faid, that this Antonio Dandrado Beringel, after a familiar converfation of three weeks, had told him that he was fent with a letter figned by John Fernandes Vieira, Francifco Beringel, Bernardin Karvailho, John Biferro and Lewis Bras Biferro, in which they gave to underftand to the King of Portugal, that they were well provided with men, money, and arms, for the reducing Brazil under his obedience. The council added, that the King of Portugal had made the faid Beringel a captain for this piece of fervice, and that therefore they defired Count Maurice and the great council to keep a watchful eye over them, being fenfible what an averfion the Portuguefe did bear to the Dutch. At the meeting of the great council of Brazil, i6th February 1643, Count Maurice affured thera, that he had received intelligence, that fome of the chiefefl: of the Portu- guefe had refolved to furprife our garrifons in the country, at Moribeca, St.Anthony, and fome other places, and to put them to the fword, which was to be put in execution upon one of their faint's days, when they ufed to meet in confiderable numbers. Thofe who had the chief management of this affair, had their dwelling-places in the Vargea, who had propofed to furprife likewife the Receif, not queftioniiig that if they could make themfelves mailers of it, the other garrifons in the country would be eafily re- duced, and confequently the company not able to fubfift long in Brazil, without foldiers and traffic. Hereupon it was taken into deliberation, whether it were bed to fecure the heads of this rebellion immediately, or to delay it till a more convenient time, for fear of alarm- ing the whole country by their imprifonment : the laft was refolved upon, becaufe they did not think themfelves as yet fufficiently affured of their defigns, and did not queftion, but that by the fecret intelligence Count Maurice was to receive of their tranfaftions, to prevent them. It was however judged advifeable to draw the garrifons out of the country into the Receif, which was ftrengthened with new pallifadoes, and the old wooden battery repaired ; a Ihip was alfo ordered vidth feveral great chaloops, the firfl on the fea-fide, the others in the river, to defend the avenues of the Receif with their cannon. There were likewife divers letters fent by private perfons, fome without names, to Count Maurice and the great council, confirming the traiterous defigns of the Portuguefe ; among others, one Mr. Van Els fent a letter to Count Maurice, dated at Serinhaim the 20th of March 1643, importing, that he had it from fure hands, that a certain mulat, of the company of Auguftin Hardofo, being alked by certain inhabitants of that Fregefie, what bufinefs they had thereabouts, had told them, that they had been to carry letters to fome perfons living near the Receif ; adding, that in a fhort time they would fee that place taken without any effufion of blood, either of the Dutch or Portuguefe. In December 1643, Don Michael de Kraflo, Don Baftian Manduba de Sonho, and Don. Antonio Ferdinandes, three ambaffadors from the Count Sonho in Angola, arrived in the Receif, in the fhip called the Arms of Dort ; they had but one fervant each, but brought along with them feveral negroes with golden collars, as a prefent to Count Maurice, befides a great number of other negroes for the company. Being admitted to audience by Count Maurice and the great council, they defired, in the name of their maflers, not to fend any affiftance to the King of Congo, whom they feared would attack them before long, notwithflanding they were at that time both engaged in a war againft the Portuguefe. They received for anfwer, that the council would write to Mr. Niewland, their direftor there, to interpofe his authority and mediation, in order to maintain a correfpondency, and remove all occafion of con- 12 tefl 1 NIKUHOFF S BRAZIL. 745 teft betwixt the King of Congo and their mafter, they being both confederates of the ftates : the faid earl fent likewife a letter to Count Maurice, in which he deiired leave to buy a chair, a cloak, fome enfigns of war, fome apparel, and fuch like things. The great council wrote alfo a letter, as well to the King of Congo, as to the Count of Sonho, exhorting them to peace, and fent them the following prefents in the name of the company : — To the King, a long black velvet cloak, with filver galloons, a fcarf edged with filver lace, a velvet coat, and a caflor-hat with a filver hatband. — To the Count, a red velvet elbow-chair, with gold fringes, a large velvet cloak, with gold and filver galloons, a fcarf with a gold and filver lace, a velvet coat, and a caftor-hat with a gold and filver hatband. They were entertained with all imaginable civility during their ftay here : they were very feilful in playing with the backfword ; in the management of which, they made moif terrible poftures and faces. They underilood Latin very well, and made feveral learned harangues in the fame. The 13th of 0£tober 1644, a certain Jew called Gafpar Francifco de Kunha, with two others of the chief of the fame fraternity, gave notice to the great council, that they had been credibly informed by fome Jews, who converfed and kept frequent correfpondence in the country, that the Portuguefe were plotting againfl the Dutch Brazil, telling the council the reafons upon which they founded this fufpicion. The council, after having returned thanks to thefe elders for their care, refolved to leave no ftone unturned, to difcover the defigns of the Portuguefe ; and having received certain intelligence, that they expedted fome arms and ammunition to be brought them byfea, they ordered, the 12th of Oftober 1644, the yacht called Niewhoufe, with a galiot and a chaloop, to cruize along the coaft of Dutch Brazil, to obfcrve what veflels did approach the fhore. The 1 ith of May 1644, Count Maurice left the Receif, in order to his return to Holland, after he had been eight years governor of the Dutch Brazil. All the citizens and chief inhabitants, botli of the Receif and Maurice's Town, appeared in arms, mak- ing a lane from the old town to the water-gate, from whom, as he paffed by, he took his leave with all imaginable demonftrations of kindnefs. At the gate he mounted on horfe-back, and being accompanied by the great council, the counfellors of juftice, and all the military officers, as far as Olinda, he there once more took his leave of them in particular, the Sieur Bulleftraet remaining only with him, being deputed by the regency to conduct him on board the fliips defigned for his tranfportation. They did not fet fail from the Red Land till the 2 2d of May, with a fleet of thirteen fhips, on board of which were a good number of foldiers, leaving only eighteen companies for the defence of the Dutch Brazil. Mr. Bulleftraet returned the 26th to the Receif. On the 22d of April, not long before the departure of Count Maurice, the com- miftion from the governors of the Weft India company, according to a refolution taken at their meeting the firft of July 1642, concerning the government of Dutch Brazil, and dated the 2 2d of May 1643, "^'^ ^^^^ '" *^^ great council, by which the members thereof were to have the adminiflration of the government till further orders. Accordingly, Count Maurice having appointed a day to inveft them with the admini- ftration of the government, he ordered (with the confent of the faid council) an aflembly to be called on the 6th of May, of the counfellors of juftice, of the magif- trates, the ecclefiaftical council and minillers of Maurice's Town ; of the commanders- in-chief, both by fea and land, the chief officers of the company, the officers of the militia, and the chief men among the Jews. VOL. XIV. q c AU 746 nieuhoff's BRAZn.. All thefe being at the appointed time met in the great hall of the Stadthuis, he told them, that fince Their High and Mightinefles the States, His Highnefs the Prince of Orange, and the council of Nineteen, had been pleafed to grant him leave, after a flay of eight years among them, in the quality of governor of the Dutch Brazil, to return into Holland, he had called them together, to return them thanks for the many fervices, each in his ftation, had done to the company ; as likewife for the obe- dience, fidelity, and refpe£t they had alwfays fhewn to his perfon ; telling them, that from this minute he refigned the government into the hands of the great council, requiring and defiring them, in the name of the States, the Prince of Orange, and the council of Nineteen, to fhew them the fame obedience, fidelity, and refpeft, they had done before ; whereupon Count Maurice having congratulated the council, and the reft there prefent done the fame, he took his leave of them in the hall, and im- mediately after in the council-chamber, of the members of the great council, giving them moft hearty thanks for their faithful council and affiftance upon all occafions, and for the refpeft and deference they had always fliewn to his perfon ; telling them, that fince this would be the laft time of his appearing in their aflembly, he had drawn up a memorial, which might ferve them as a guide, for the better adminiftration of the government ; and that, if they thought it convenient, he fhould be ready to difcourfe with them, and enlarge further upon that fubjed. The members of the great council returned him their unfeigned thanks, wifhing him a happy voyage, and good fuccefs in all his undertakings, and recommended themfelves and the whole Dutch Brazil to his care hereafter. Before the breaking up of the aflembly, it was debated in the prefence of Count Maurice, which of the members fhould have the precedency there as prefident, or whether the fame fhould be taken by turns, the fame being not deter- mined in their commifTion. After feveral arguments pro and con, it was agreed, that things fhould remain, in refpeft of this point, in the fame condition as had been ufual before, in the abfence of Count Maurice, viz. for every one to keep his rank without any priority, till further orders from the council of Nineteen ; to wit, firft Mr. Dirk Hamel, then Mr. Bulleftraet, Mr. Kodde Vander Burgh, &c. The next thing the great council took in hand, was to inquire more narrowly into the defigns of the Portuguefe againft the government ; to eifeft which, it was refolved, in January 1644, to fend Gilbert de Wit, counfellor of the court of juftice, and Captain Dirk Hoogftraten, then commander-in-chief in the Cape of St. Auftin, to Antonio Telles de Sylva, then governor of the Bahia, with the following inftruftions, dated the 1 5th of the fame month ; to compliment the governor (after the delivery of their credentials), in the name of the great council, with a fincere promife and alTurance of friendfhip, and good neighbourly correfpondency. After this, they were to reprefent to him, that many of the fubjefts of the Dutch Brazil, after having con- trafted confiderable debts there, both with the company and other inhabitants, did retire into the Bahia ; wherefore they defired, that for the promoting of juftice, they would either detain thofe bankrupts in prifon, or at leaft give timely notice of their coming thither, to the Dutch government, whereby their fubjefts might be enabled to profecute them at law : but their real errand was to be inftrufted underhand in the following points : 1. What forces the Portuguefe had at that time in the Bahia, and the other fouthern provinces. 2. What number of Ihips. 3. What number of fhips were expected there out of Portugal. 4. How nieuhoff's brazil. 747 4. How the negroes trade ftood afFefted, and from what places they were brought thither. 5. Whether there was any commerce betwixt them and the inhabitants of Buenos Ayres. 6. In what condition their places were thereabouts ; of all which they were to give the beft account they were able to get, after their return to the great council ; they were alfo charged by word of mouth, to make diligent enquiry who were the perfons that underhand encouraged the fo-much-feared revolt of the Portuguefe in the Dutch Brazil, and what aid or affiftance they were to have from them ; and to defire the governor not to permit for the future, that fuch of the Dutch foldiers as deferred out of the Receif, and went by land to the Bahia, might from thence be tranfported into Portugal, but be flopped and fent back to the Receif. Thefe convoys arrived fafely the 8th of February 1644, '^^ the Bahia, and dropped their anchor, towards the evening, near the city of St. Salvador, and the caftle of St. Antonio, where two officers came on board them, to enquire from whence they came, and by whom, and to whom they were fent, in order to give an account thereof to the governor, Antonio Telles de Sylva. The next following day they were com- plimented in the name of the governor, by Major Domingo Delgados, and Captain David Ventura, who told them that he intended to fend his chaloop with the firft opportunity to fetch them afhore. About three o'clock in the afternoon, the fame officers, with three or four more, came with the chaloop to fetch them ; and they were no fooner landed, but found feveral horfes ready for them to mount upon, which they did, and were conducted up a high hill, all over covered with fpeftators, to the governor's palace. In the outward hall was a ftrong guard of foldiers ; in the fecond, feveral enfigns and other inferior officers ; in the third apartment they met with nothing but captains and lieutenants ; and in the fourth, with colonels, general officers, fome clergymen, and the governor himfelf ; who, after having received them at the door, defired them to fit down next to him, upon chairs fet for that purpofe. The envoys then begun their harangue, in which they told him, that they were extremely glad to find him in good health at this time, when they were fent by the great council of the Dutch Brazil, to affure him of their good inclinations to maintain a good correfpondency and friendfhip with him, and of their hearty wifhes for His Majefty's, his own, and the government's profperity ; to preferve which, they were ready to contribute all that lay in their power. Then they told him, that they had feveral things to propofe to him, when he fhould think convenient to receive them ; the reft of the difcourfe run upon mutual compliments and news. After which, the envoys were again accompanied by the governor to the door of the apartment, where he ordered the before-mentioned Domingo Delgados and David Ventura, to condufl; them to a certain large houfe, finely furniffied, in Bifhop's-ftreet, and to en- tertain them at his charge ; which, though the envoys refufed, alledging it to be con- trary to the intentions of their mafters, yet were forced to accept of the fame, and were very magnificently entertained at fupper. The next morning about eleven o'clock, they went again to the palace, and after having defired a fecond audience, were received in the fame manner as before. Every one being ordered to withdraw, befides the fecretary of the governor ; the envoys made their propofitions to the laft, which they delivered to him in writing, in Portuguefe, recommending the fame to his confideration, as tending towards the maintaining a good and firm correfpondency betwixt them. To which the governor gave this general 5 c 2 anfwer : 748 NIEUHOFp's BRAZIL. anfwer : " That he Ihould always endeavour to cuhivate a good underftanding and correfpondency with us, purfuant to the ftricl and reiterated orders he had received for that purpoJe from the King his mailer. And that concerning the propofitions made by them to him, he would aflemble his council of war and juflice, and afterwards impart to them his anfwer." Then they were, by Domingo Delgados, recondurtcd to his own houfe, where they were very well entertained the fame day at dini)^r, and the next by the governor himfelf. The 17th they had another audience from the governor, who told them, in very obliging terms, " that he had confulted the matter with his council, and could give them no other anfwer but what was contained in this letter," which he delivered to them, and told them the contents thereof; whereupon our envoys told him, that fince thereby a door was left open for rogues and vagabonds, they hoped he would at leaft order that the names of fuch as fled to the Bahia might be taken notice of, that the great council of the Dutch Brazil might not remain quite unfatisfied, whither they were fled ; which he promifed to do. After fome further compliments, and mutual aflurance of friendfhip, they parted for this time. The 22d they took their leave of the bilhop, and feveral other perfons of note, unto whom they owed any obligations, and laft of all of the governor himfelf, being con- duced thither by many perfons of quality and officers ; they returned him thanks for the civilities and refpect he had been pleafed to fhew them, wifliing both him and His Portuguefe Majefly a long and happy reign, and vidory againfl the Caftilians. The governor returned their compliments, and conduced them out of the room, ordering feveral negroes to attend them down the precipice of the hill, upon which the city is built, with chairs ; but the envoys choofmg rather to go on foot, they were, in the fame chaloop they came in afliore, carried back under the found of mufic on board their yacht. The Portuguefe officers, after having taken their leave, returned to the city, and ours made the belt of their way to the Receif, where they arrived fafely not long after, ' The letter delivered to them by the governor was as follows : The Governor's Letter. " Gilbert de Wit counfellor of your court of juflice, and Dirk Hoogflratcn com- mander-in-chief on the Cape of St. Auftin, Your Lordlhips deputies, whom I received according to their quality and merits, have delivered your letter to me, and propofed fuch other matters as they were empowered to treat with me about. Though I endea- vour nothing fo much as to cultivate and maintain in the Itricteil manner, our neigh- bourly good coi refpondency, yet am I conflrained at this time frankly to acknowledge, that it is not in my power to give your lordffiips any more faiisfaclory anfwer than this, in hopes that the many proofs you have had of my fmcere inclinations, will ferve as a plea vith Your Lord fhips, to alfure you, that I fhall always be ready in all points depending on my government, to give the fame proofs both of obedience and fidelity to the King my mailer, whofe pleafure is, that the truce fliould be obferved inviolably ; and of my fmcere intentions, and the efteem I have for Your Lordfhips friendfliip, de- firing nothing more than that you furniffi me with an opportunity of giving real demonflrations of my readinefs to ferve you ; whom I recommend to the proteiflion of God Almighty. "Bahia, Feb. 14th, 1645. (Signed) Antonio Tellks de Sylva." Concerning XIEUHOFF S BRAZIL. 749 Concerning the fix points mentioned in their iecret inftruftions, they made the fol- lowing report 'to the great council : " I. That the Portuguefe forces in thofe parts were generally efteemed to be lefs or more betwixt three and four thoufand men, without the Brazilians and negroes. But that upon the moil exact enquiry they could make, they had found them to be not above three thoufand, including the Brazilians and negroes, and their garrifons both to the north and fouth, as far as Rio Janeiro. Thefe confifted of five regiments, viz. three of Portuguefe, under the Colonels John Darauge, Martin Soares, and N. N. the fourth of Brazilians, under a Brazilian colonel, Antonio Philippe Camarao, and the fifth of negroes, under the command of negro Henricio Dyas. Thefe two lafl: regiments, amounting both not to above three hundred men, were divided in the gar- rifons to the north, about Rio Real on our frontiers ; they being the fcum and off-cafts of all their territories, and confequeiitly not to be quartered near the capital city, there having of late been ibme broils among them in the garrifons, whither officers were difpatched to compofe them. The three Portuguefe regiments, confifting of about two thoufand feven hundred men, kept garrifon in St. Salvador, and the circumjacent forts, except two companies, one of which was quartered about Rio Real, the other in the illand Morro St. Paulo : and about one hundred and fifty more, which were difpofed in the captainihips of Os Ilheos, Porto Seguro, and Spirito Sanclo ; fo that the gar- rifons of St. Salvador and the circumjacent forts confifted of at leaft two thoufand three hundred, each company confiding of one hundred men lefs or more, all chofen men and well cloathed ; four companies mounted the guard every night, one at the palace, at each of the two gates one, and the fourth in the water-works without the city. 2. " Of their naval ftrength they gave a very flender account, being more confi- derable in number than force, as confifting only in fifty fmall veftels and yachts, not in the leaft fitted for war ; neither could they obferve the leaft fliow of preparations tending that way, their aim being only to proteft their ftiips bound to the Portuguefe coafts againft the infults of the Caftilian and Denmark privateers, and the Turkifti rovers. It was, as they faid, upon this account, that during our ftay there, two ftout Portuguefe fhips fit for war, manned with fix hundred men, and provided with good ftore of ammunition, arrived in the Bahia, under the command of Salvador Correada-fa, with orders to go direftly from thence to Rio de Janeiro, and to fetch all ftiips ready laden from thence to Bahia, from whence they were to convoy thefe as well as fuch other veifels as they found ready there, to the coaft of Portugal ; for which reafon alfo all the velfels which otherwife ufed to go according to their own conveniency, were ordered to ftay for the faid convoy. That news was brought by the faid two ftiips, that the King of Portugal had forbid the building of caravels and other fuch like fmall velfels, inftead of which they were to build fliips ot better defence againft the infults of an enemy at fea. From whence the envoys faid they fuppofed would arife this incorl- veniency to the Portuguefe, that the freights and convoy-money paid for the commo- dities tranfported from Portugal to the Portuguefe Brazil, and for the fugar tranfported from thence to Portugal, mull increafe, and confequently would not be able to fell the laft at the fame price the Dutch did, confide: ing efpecially that they muft be confi- derable lofers both in their intereft and time, where they were forced to tarry for their convoys, whereas they ufed formerly to make the beft of their way home. ' " 3. They had obferved, that though the inhabitants of the Bahia expefted the coming of thufe ihips at their firft arrival, yet feveral vefTels arrived there, both from the Portuguefe coaii and the ifland?, before the reft. 12 4« " They 750 NIEUHOFF S BRAZIL. " 4. They concluded the negro-trade to be very inconfiderable there, they having fcarce ever heard it as much as mentioned, but becaufe the price of a good negro did not at that time amount to above three hundred gilders, they fuppofed them pretty well {locked with them ; thofe which were of late bought there being brought thither from Cape Verde and Arder. They farther reported, that when on Wednefday, being the 8th of February, they entered the Bahia, they met two fliips of good bulk, carrying about twenty guns each, and well manned, going out, which upon enquiry were told them to be bound for Portugal, but cuuld not learn to what harbour there, which, together with fome other reafons, made them fufped they were intended another way, in which we found ourfelves not deceived, when on the 22d of February, juft as they were ready for their departure, they underftood from the Mulat Juliana, and of two monks, that thefe two Ihips were lent with men to Angola, for the fecurity of the inhabitants of Mafagao, who, being but fmall in number, were forely afraid to be fet upon by the negroes of the country, and having defired the governor's afliflance, who ordered thofe Ihips and the men to go in the night-time, and to endeavour to reach Mafagao unperceived by any, and without committing any hcflilities againfl the Dutch. Whether and how far this might be true, time would fhew, but they had all the rea- fon in the world to believe, that it was upon their fcore of concealing this expedition, as well as fome other matters from them, that immediately after their arrival (though they were not informed of it till near the time of their departure) that no Dutch or Germans fliould appear as much as in the fight of the envoys, much lefs difcourfe with them ; which was obferved with that (Iriftnefs, that they really imagined there had been no Dutch there ; but found afterwards that they had been all {^how many they knew not) carried on board the Portuguefe veflels, to prevent their keeping any corres- pondency with us and our fhip's crew ; to which end alfo, fix centinels were placed in two boats lying near our yacht, during the time of our ftay here, under pretence of protedling our veflel, but in efFe£l to prevent any body from coming on board us, purfuant to the orders of the governor. " 5. That the inhabitants of the Bahia and the other Portuguefe captainfliips, had not the leaft commerce at this time with thofe of Buenos Ayres. That immediately after the revolution in Portugal, thofe of Bahia had attempted to go thither, but were treated as enemies by them ; fo that it was their opinion, the place would either foon, or was already totally ruined for want of commerce ; all their livelihood confiding in the traffic from the coafl: of Brazil thither ; which falling away, no filver could be tranfported thither from Peru ; it being not probable that the Spaniards would run the hazard of paffing along an enemy's coaft, when they had a fafer way to tranfport their treafures from the Weft Indies. " 6. That they could not get the leaft certain information concerning the defigns -carried on betwixt fome of the inhabitants of the Bahia and thofe of the Dutch Brazil againft the laft ; befides which they gave them a general relation of what they had been able to learn, concerning the condition of the city of St. Salvador, its inhabitants, go- vernor, and fome other matters relating to the country thereabouts. " The rumours which in 1640 were noifed about concerning the treacherous defigns of the Portuguefe inhabitants againft us, being for that time vaniftied into fmoke, the fame was revived, and their defigns began to be difcovered in February 1 645, viz. That confiding in the promifed fuccours from Bahia, they intended to rife in arms againft us, looking upon this iunfture as the moft favourable for their purpofe, fince Count Maurice with the greateft part of our fleet, and a good number of foldiers, were returned to Holland, from whence no frefti fupplies were come of late into Brazil. The great council nieuhoff's brazil. 75 t council not being ignorant of this, were indefatigable in their care, to leave no ftone unturned to find out the ring-leaders of this rebellion, fo as to charge them effectually with this crime, and find out fufficient caufe for their commitment. They fent out feveral of their officers into the country as fpies, to found the inclinations of the people, and whether they could meet with any one who incited the refl to an infurredion. The like he did on the other fide of the river of St. Francis, and in Kamaron's camp, whither they had fent certain perfons to inveftigate their defigns, and to learn what preparations they made for war, and whether they were intended againft Pernambuko, but were not able to find out any thing, upon which they could make any fure account. Being neverthelefs fenfible that thofe forewarnings were not altogether groundlefs, and knowing the Portuguefe to be of fo haughty a temper (befides the difference in religion) that they would fcarce let any opportunity flip of withdrawing themfelves from the obedience of their conquerors ; they writ the 1 3th of February 1645 the following letter, concerning the defigns of the Portuguefe to the council of Nineteen : A Letter from the Great Council to the Weji India Company. " Moft Noble and Right Honourable, *' During the government of His Excellency Count Maurice, there were already feveral of the inhabitants of this ftate entered into fecret cabals to rife in mutiny againft us, in hopes of afTiflance from the Bahia ; their bufmefs was to infinuate into thofe that were well affefted to them, after their good fuccefs in Maranhaon, that our forces being confiderably weakened by the ftrong detachments fent to the garrifons of Angola, St. Thomas, and others, a fair opportunity was offered them, to withdraw themfelves from our obedience, and to enjoy their former liberty under their own King. They were not a little encouraged in their defign, imagining the fame might be carried on without any great difficulty, when they found that of late we had received no fupplies either of meat or other provifions, or of foldiers, from Holland, whereby the ftore- houfes of the company here being exhaufled, the garrifons of the forts were forced to be fupplied from time to time with farinha and frefh meats out of the country ; they judged, if they could once be mailers in the field, they muff of neceffity fall into their hands, as it happened in 1 640 to the Spanifh garrifons in Portugal, who for the fame reafon were not in a condition to hold out againft the Portuguefe ; being, befides that, fenfible that, unlefs we would too much weaken our garrifons, we had no fufficient number of troops left to appear formidable in the field. Thefe and other fuch like in- finuations have been frequently fpread among the Portuguefe, by thofe who, finding themfelves moft uneafy under our government, hoped for a change of their affairs by changing their mafters ; which, however, wrought no confiderable effeft, as long as His Excellency continued in the government, partly becaufe we, being forewarned of their defigns, kept a watchful eye over all their aftions, and partly becaufe our fea and land forces being much more confiderable at that time than they are now, they had but little profpedl of fucceeding in their enterprife, which therefore they judged moft convenient to defer till after His Excellency's departure, which as it was fufficiently known before- hand, fo they were fenfible that thereby our forces both by fea and land muft be con- fiderably weakened, and confequently would furnifh them with a fairer opportunity of putting their fo long rejected defign in execution ; the more, becaufe that many of the Portuguefe who, relying hitherto upon the authority of Count Maurice, as the only means to keep the foldiers in awe, being now put in fear of the executions and exorbi- 9 tancies 752 NIEUHOFF's BRAZIL. fancies likely to be committed by the covetous officers and rapacious foldiers, would be forced to join with them againfi us. After the departure of His Excellency for Hol- land, thofe cabals have inftead of divine things increafed every day ; they have been very diligent in getting information concerning the ftrength of all our garrifons, with an intent to carry on their defigns before we could be reinforced with fupplies of men and provifions from Holland ; to eft'eft which they have, by meflengers fent to Bahia, fo- licited for fuccours of men and arms, of which, as it feems, they have no fmall hopes. There is great reafon to believe that the journey of Andrew Vidal from the Bahia hither, in Auguft laft, undertaken under pretence of taking his leave before his return to Por- tugal, in order to ferve the King therc,was founded upon no other motive, than to inform himfelf moil narrowly concerning the true (late of affairs here, in order to give a verbal account thereof in the Bahia, and afterwards in Portugal ; as likewife to found the in- clinations of the inhabitants, and to animate fuch as he found well difpofed for his in- terefl, with hopes of fpeedy fuccours from the Bahia : we having lince received fecret in- telligence that he has been prefent at feveral of thefe cabals. But though they were greatly encouraged with thefe hopes of good fuccefs, by reafon of the diminution of our forces, and fcarcity of provifions, they were not very forward in venturing upon this en- terprize, being fenfible that their defign having taken vent, we made all neceffary pre- parations againll them ; befides that many of the Portuguefe inhabitants being beyond their expectation well fatisfied with the government of the great council, did rather chufe to live quietly and fecurely, than to engage in fo dangerous an enterprize. So that things remained without any confiderable alteration at prefent ; and, as matters fland now, we are not able to find out fufficient caufe to fatisfy ourfelves whether they proceed in the fame defign. Their chief defign, as we are credibly informed, was laid againfi the Receif, which they intended to furprife, upon a certain day appointed for the fale of negroes, when the inhabitants of the country flocking thither in great number^, they did not doubt but, with the affiflance of our own negroes, who are for the mofl part papifts, to make themfelves mafters of the place, not queftioning but if this fucceeded, the reft would foon be forced to yield. But in this they were prevented by the ftrong guards we took care to poll in the Receif on thofe fair-days. The chief ring-leaders, as they are fpecified to us, are John Fernandes Vieira, and his father-in-law Francifco Be- ringel, with feveral others, whom we would have committed to prifon, if we could have had more certain information againfi: them ; but though we left no flone unturned to find out the truth, yet we could not meet with fufficient motives to induce us either to imprifon them, or to proceed again to the general difarming of the inhabitants, we having received certain intelligence, that fo foon as we fliould attempt it, we mufl ex- pe6l no lefs than a general iftfurreftion, which, confidering our own magazines and ftorehoufes were fo ill provided, and no fufficient force could be drawn out of the garri- £bn to fecure the open country, would have drawn after it very ill confequences for our nation, efpecially thofe living at fome diftance from our forts, who thereby, as we had reafon to fear, might have been expofed to the danger of being mafTacred by the Portu- guefe. It is evident, from the information given to your lordfhips in Holland, and tranfmitted to us, that the fubjefts of the King of Portugal themfelves are encouraged and animated againft us ; wherefore it will be abfolutely neceflary to be very cautious, and to haften the fupplies we fo often have requefled at your hands. Upon the firll in- formation we received, that toward the fouth of the Receif the Portuguefe intended to land fome men or arms, we fent the 13th of Odober a yacht, the Enckhuyfen, with another galliot and chaloop, to crujfe thereabouts, but they returned after fome time without being able to difcover any fuch thing. The next intelligence we had was, that a fleet njeuhoff's brazil. 753 a fleet was equipping in the Bahia, to tranfport fome forces for the affiftance of our re- bellious fubjefts ; to find out the bottom of this defign, we thought we could pitch upon no better expedient than to fend thither Mr. Gilbert de Witt and Dirk Hoogftraten with certain inftructions, of which we have inclofed the copy, who fet fail the 25th of the laft month. Being further informed that a certain Portuguefe captain, with an en- fign and three foldiers, have been lately difpatched from the Bahia to our captainfhips to endeavour to flir up our fubjedts to rebellion, with affurance of fuccours from thence : we have employed all neceffary means to find them out and get them into our hands. We fliall not be wanting in any thing which, according as occafion prefents, may con- tribute to the prefervation of this ftate. " Receif, 13th February 1645." The 4th, the great council were informed, by letter from Ifaac Rafiere and Captain Blewbeck, written at Parayba, that a rumour was fpread thereabouts that Kamaron, chief commander of the Brazilians in the Bahia, was on his march from Sertao to Siara to join with the Brazilians inhabiting thereabouts, to attack with their united forces the inhabitants of the captainlhip of Rio Grande. Whereupon the council fent orders to Hans Vogel, governor of Seregippo del Rey, to get intelligence and fend them fpeedy word whether Kamaron with his camp were ftill in Rio Real ; and if not, whither he had taken his march, or whither he intended to take it. They alfo fent word to the in- habitants of Parayba that they (hould be very diligent in enquiring after the caufe of this rumour, and fend them intelligence accordingly. The 15th of May they received an anfwer from Hans Vogel, dated the 25th of April at Seregippo del Rey, wherein he told them, that purfuant to their orders he had fent a ferjeant with fome foldiers to Kamaron's head-quarters, about ten leagues from Sere- gippo del Rey, under pretence of looking for fome deferters ; who, after their return, reported that his forces, confifting of two hundred Portuguefe and one thoufand two hundred Brazilians, were ftill in the fame place, bufied for the moft part in cultivating fome plantations, Kamaron himfelf being then in the Bahia, to aflift at the folemnity of their Eafter, from whence they conjeftured that the riimour concerning his march was only a fiftion. But two days after the fame rumour was renewed by two paiTengers coming from Rio St. Francifco, and being landed by one John Hoen, a mafter of a veflel near Kindelaria ; but upon a more ftrid inquiry made by the council, the faid mafter of the veflel declared, that on the eighth of the fame month, when he left Rio St. Fran- cifco, there was no news of Kamaron's march. The 30th of May 1645, a letter without a name was delivered to the great council by one Abraham Markado, a Jew, fubfcribed only " Plus ultra." This letter being tranf- lated out of the Portuguefe the fame night, the contents whereof were, that three un- known perfons gave them notice that a good body of troops were come from Rio Real into Parayba, with an intention to join with a discontented party there, and to furprife the Dutch forts ; with advice to feize upon the perfon of John Fernandes Vieira their chief ring-leader. The letter is as follows : A Letter of Intelligence to the Council. " We ftand amazed you are fo fecure, when it is reported that the Matta of Parayba is full of foldiers, come thither lately from Rio Real, who confifting of a good number , VOL. XIV. 5 D pf 754 nieuhoff's brazil. of negroes, mulats, and Portuguefe, with Kamaron at the head of them, began their march in the month of March, expelling now to be joined by other troops, which hitherto were flopped by the overflowing of the rivers. Their aim is to encourage the inhabitants to take up arms, which done, they cxpefl; confiderable fuccours from the Bahia, both by fea and land, wherewith they pretend to block you up in the Receif, intending to fix their camp either at Olinda, or in the Vergea, and quarter the foldiers in the Fregefies thereabouts. They boaft that their forces are already confiderably in- creafed by thofe who are indebted to the company, and other vagabonds, and threaten to maflacre all fuch of your fubjects as refuie to join with them. A certain perfon of note and reputation belonging to the fame camp, has given us this information, in order to communicate it to Your Lordfhips, to be upon your guard, which we do accordingly by thefe prefents. The fame perfon told us, that John Fernandes Vicira was the chief ring-leader of this infurreclion, who maintains the rebellious crew in the Matta, as they meet together, till a certain time appointed for their rendezvous, when they are with their joint forces to attack all the Dutch forts and out-guards at once. We were alfo told, that the faid Vieira does not fleep in his houfe, and is always upon his guard j to try which, you have no more to do than to fend fome to take him, with his fervants and faftors ; which if you could do they would be all amazed, and make an open con- feflion, which may be done without the lead hazard ; for if you mifcarry in the attempt, it will neverthelefs not redound to your difadvantage. We conjure Your Lordfliips to take care of this poor nation, for fear they fhould be forced to join with the rebels againft you. We judge it therefore abfolutely neceflary to undertake the bufinefs with- out delay, with all imaginable fecrecy ; for if they find themfelves difcovered, they will be- gin the game immediately ; fo that ftrong guards ought to be put in the outworks, and in the harbours of Kandelaria and the Receif. We advife Your Lordfliips to oblige the inhabitants forthwith to furrender their arms, to order all the mailers of the fugar-mills, with their planters, to appear in the Receif, efpecially thofe of the Fregefies of Vergea, Garaffu, St. Lorenzo, St. Amaro, Moribeca, De Cabo, Pojuka, and Serinham, with affurance that they Ihall not be molefted for any debts there ; and when they are come, to detain them till they fee what is further to be done, under pretence of fecuring them againft the attempts of the rebels in the country, by which means you will both fecure the government, and oblige many private perfons. The fame method ought to be ufed with thofe of Parayba, where they may be detained in the fort, as well as thofe of Porto Calvo in that place. Thus if you can get the chiefeft into your hands, the defign will dwindle away to nothing. We befeech you not to fend away any more foldiers before you have made a full difcovery of the rebellion, and provide your forts with good garri- fons ; whither we would alfo have all the Dutch inhabitants to retire for fear of being maffacred. We three being faithful fubjeds of Your Lordfhips, have now fiitisfied our confciences in propofing your remedy, which confifts in the taking of Vieira, which muft be undertaken with great fecrecy and forefight, he being, as it is faid, continually upon his guard. Your Lordfhips will be fenfible without our advice how much if con- cerns them, not to divulge to any, from whom they have received this information ; and we affurc you, that we will not fail to give further intelligence of what we are able to learn by way of letters ; and one time or other, we fhall make no difficulty to let you know, who thefe three faithful fubjefts are. If we had been prefent, we could have declared no more than we have done in this letter. Your Lordfhips mufl take effeftual care againft their attempts without delay, the approaching feaft being the time appoint- ing for the putting it in execution. We have fent you immediate notice after it came to our knowledge : we advife you likewife to feize upon Francifco Beringel, Vieira's 1 2 father- nieuhoff's brazil. 755 father-in-law, and Antonio Kavalkanti ; and in fhort, all the chiefeft of the Vergeas, and other places. (Signed) " A. Verdade.- « Plus Ultra." Hereupon the great council called Paul de Linge, prefident of the council of juftice. Vice-admiral Cornelius Lichthart, and Lieutenant-colonel Garftnian, into their aflembly, to confult unanimoufly what were befl to be done at this jundlure, for the prefervation of the Dutch Brazil ; when by this, as well as feveral other letters and intelligences, they were forewarned of the approaching danger ; and notwithftanding they were much in doubt, whether they ought to make any certain account upon a letter written without a name ; yet confidering all the circumflances of this, as well as feveral other informa- tions, it was judged abfolutely neceflary to provide for the fafety of the Dutch Brazil, againft any attempts of an enemy. 1. By providing all the forts with meal for two months. 2. By givmg immediate notice to all commanders of forts to be conftantly upon their guard. 3. To write to John Liftry, chief commander of the Brazilians, to keep his people in readinefs with their arms in the villages, to be ready to march upon the firft orders from the council, we being not in a condition to take the field without them. 4. To fend abroad their fpies in all corners, even into the woods, to get intelligence whereabouts the enemy's troops are, and to give timely notice of what they are able to learn to the council. 5. It was agreed, to fummon John Fernandes Vieira, the chief ring-leader of the intended rebellion, and his fecurities, Francifco Beringel, Vieira's father-in-law, and Ber- nardin Karvalho, unto the Receif, under pretence of making a fecond agreement with him, which he earneflly defired ; by which means they fhould fecure his perfon, know the whole bottom of the Portuguefe defign, and confequently be the better able to pre- vent it. A certain broker, called Koin, who foHcited this agreement for Vieira, was prevailed upon to undertake this talk, which he might do without the leafl fufpicion ; but the Whitfuntide holidays put fome ftop to it for the prefent. With the fame care the great council employed all poflible means to get the other perfons of the Vergea, fufpe<5led to have a hand in this rebellious defign, into their hands, under fome pretence or other, they being not Hkely to be taken by force, becaufe they did not lodge in their mills and houfes in the night-time, and by day were fo ftriftly upon their guard, that they could not poflibly be furprized. The 3 1 ft of May, Vice-admiral Lichthart, and Henry Haus, a lieutenant, offered to undertake the delivering of John Fernandes Vieira to the council, which they intended to effeft, under pretence of giving him a vifit, and going a fifhing with him in the lake Lewis Bras,Biferra. The 9th of July the great council received advice by a letter from Mr. Koin, go- vernor of Rio St.Francifco, dated the ift of June, that Kamaron, with a fmall body, was pafled the river St. Francis j therefore he defired fome affiftance of men, with fuit- able ammunition. The fame was confirmed by another letter, dated the 27 th of June, with advice, that as yet no enemy had appeared within fight of the fort. Frequent intelligence being likewife fent to the council, that in the Matta of St. Law- rence, and fome other diftant places, confiderable numbers of foldiers from the Bahia, of mulats and negroes, were gathering in a body, they fent feveral fmall bodies thither, 5 D 2 under 756 nieuhoff's brazil. under command of fuch as were •well acquainted with that country, who all unanimoufly reported, that they could meet with no foldiers, mulats, or any other vagabonds there- abouts. The 1 2th of June, the direftor Moucheron fent further advice, that he had been cre- dibly informed, by letters dated the 8th of the fame month, from Rio St. Francifco, th^t Kamaron and Henrico Dias, with fix companies of Brazilians, mulats, and negroes, were pafled the faid river ; and that juft as he was concluding his letter, two inhabitants of the Algoas had given him to underftand, that fome of them had been at their houfes for fome meal ; the copies of which letters he fent to the council, who did now not in the leaft queftion, but that their defign was upon the Dutch Brazil, efpecially fince they were forewarned by feveral letters from St. Antonio, that the inhabitants thereabouts feemed to prepare for a revolt. The council finding their project of taking Vieira by craft, not to fucceed, becaufe be and the fecurities of his father-in-law, Francifco Beringel, and Bernardin Karvalho, eould not be cajoled into the Rcceif, under pretence of renewing their former contraft, and looking upon him as the chief ring-leader of this revolt, they ordered Joachim Den- niger, a lieutenant, with a good number of foldiers, to the mill and houfe of the faid John Femandes Vieira, to bring his perfon from thence to the Receif. Accordingly Denniger advanced with his foldiers towards the evening near the mills, which he fur- rounded, and about midnight unexpectedly entered both the houfe and mills, making a moft ftrift fearch throughout all the rooms and corners, but to no purpope. In the morning he withdrew at fome diftance, but returned the next night, when, after having made another fearch, but in vain, he was informed by one of his Turkifh flaves, and fome negroes, that neither Vieira, nor his father-in-law Beringel, had flept in their houfes thefe laft three weeks ; that fometimes they came thither on horfeback, but after a very fliort flay went their ways again. Denniger likewife fearched the houfes of Antonio Kavalkanti and Antonio Biferra, but to as little purpofe as thofe of the former, being informed by their negroes, that they had abfconded for fome weeks before. In the mean-while, the council fent divers parties abroad, under the command of Hans Catner, Slodinifld, and Cunraed Hilt, all which, after their return, agreed in this, that there were no enemies there as yet, efpecially not in the Matta, where they met with nobody but thofe that were employed in manuring the grounds. The great council finding themfelves altogether difappointed in their hopes of taking Vieira, refolved to fecure, immediately, the perfons of Francifco Beringel, Vieira's father- in-law, Bernardin Karvalho, and his brother Sebaftian Karvalho, Lewis Bas, Amaro Lopez, and John Peffoa, being perfons fufpefted to have a hand in the confpiracy, in- habiting the Vergea. In the more diftant provinces were ordered to be feized, In St. Amaro, Antonio de Bulbous. In St. Antonio, Amador d'Arouja ; Pedro Marinho ; Antonio del Rafto. In Pojuka, Korneo de Morals; Father Frey Lewis; and Francifco Dias del Gado. In Serinham, John Albuquerq, fon-in-law of Pero Lopez de Vera. In Porto Calvo, Rodrigues dc Barras Pimentel. In Iguaraka, John Pimenta. In Itamarika, Father Lawrence d'Alkunha. And in Rio Grande, John Leftan Navarro. But it being mofl of all to be feared that the inhabitants of Parayba, who were much indebted, would revolt before all the reft, Mr. Paul de Linge was fent thither immediately in the quality of direftor, with full power to aft both in that and the cap- tainlhip of Rio Grande, as he ihould find it moil expedient for the company, with ex- prefs nieuhoff's brazil. 757 prefs orders to prefs one hundred men out of the fhips, with proportionable provifions, immediately after his arrival there, which were to be difpofed in the fort of St. Mar- garet, both for its defence, and to keep the inhabitants in due obedience. And, confidering that the fcarcity of provifions was one of the main obftacles to be furmounted on our fide, which, as the cafe then Rood, would more and more increafe, unlefs we could remain mailers of the field, from whence we drew moll of our provi- fions, and to over-awe the difcontented inhabitants, it was judged requifite to form a fmall camp near St. Lawrence ; and, accordingly, the two lieutenants Huykquefloot and Hamel, were ordered thither with thirty-five men each, the firft from Iguaraka, the laft from Moribeca, as likewife Captain Wiltfchut, with fifty men more from the Receif ; John Liftry, commander-in-chief of the Brazilians, was likewife ordered to join with them with all poflible fpeed, three hundred Brazilians under «their own commanders. The fame day, being the 1 2th, after a view was taken of the fortifications of Mori- beca town, the fame were ordered to be repaired ; and news being brought, that John Fernandes Vieira had been feen in his mill the fame night, the council endeavoured, with all poffible care, to have fecured his perfon, but in vain ; it being certain, that (according to the depofitions made by his fteward of the mill, called St. John, before the public notary Indiik, in the Receif, 21ft January 1647), near fix months before the breaking out of this infurredHon, he had never flept one night in his houfe : and when- ever he happened to be there in the day-time, he remained for the moft part in a turret on the top of the houfe, from whence he could have a profpefl: at a great diilance ; if his bufinefs called him below, he put fomebody elfe there to keep the watch ; who, if they faw but two or three perfons come that way, gave immediate notice thereof to him ; and if any Dutch in a body were discovered, he retired inftantly into the adjacent woods. He had likewife placed fome negroes at a certain diftance from the houfe, who were to give notice of the approach of any unknown perfons that way. The 1 3th, Seballian Karvalho, and Antonio de Bullions, were brought in prifoners to the Receif, the reft, who were fenfible of their guilt, having efcaped their hands ; the firft being examined the fame night by the afleflbr of the court of juftice, Mr. Walbeek, concerning the intended confpiracy, gave him the following account by word of mouth : — His Confejfion. " That he was one of thofe three who, a few days ago, had, by way of letter, given an account of an intended confpiracy in the Vergea, to the great council, the ring-leader thereof being John Fernandes Vieira, who, with the reft of his Portuguefe accomplices, relied upon the fuccours promifed them from the Bahia ; with what he had judged moft proper for obviating the fame. That the whole defign of this confpiracy was laid open to him by means of a certain writing, in form of an aflbciation, which was de- livered to him by a Portuguefe fervant of the faid Vieira, together with a letter, in which he defired him to fubfcribe the fame, there being no more than two who had figned it at that time, viz. John Fernandes Vieira, and Lewis da Cofta Sepulpeda. The contents of this aflbciation were, that they promifed to rife in arms againft this ftate, and to fa- crifice their lives and eftates for the recovery of the Dutch Brazil under the obedience of the King of Portugal. That indeed he had figned the faid aflbciation, but had given immediate notice thereof to Fernando Vale and a third perfon ; and that he, together with Mr. Vale, had caufed the before-mentioned letter, direfted to the great council, II to 758 nieuhoff's brazil. to be delivered to Merkado the phyfician. That the infurredion was intended to ex- tend all over Dutch Brazil, but that the inhabitants of the captainfliip of Parayba were mod to be feared, as being moft indebted, and, confequently, bearing an ill-will to our government. That their main defign was to furprife one of our forts, on or near the fea-fide, whereby they might fecure themfelves a place to receive fuccours from the Bahia ; from whence they expefted to be aflifted with two men of war, and three or four frigates. That he had figned this aflbciation barely out of fear of Vieira, who had threatened thofe that fliould refufe with no lefs than death, and had caufed feveral to be murdered upon that account." His confeflion agreeing in all points with what Fernando Vale had depofed before, and being all that time forely afflidled with the gravel, he was difpenfed with from any further examination. The council being by this depofition of Karvalho fully convinced of the treachery of Vieira and his adherents, it was refolved to attempt once more the taking of the faid Vieira, if perhaps. he might as yet lurk fomewhere or other near the Receif, and of his faftor Mor ManueFde Soufa, engaged in the fame defign ; as likewife of Antonio Be- zerra and Amaro Lopez, both inhabitants of the Vergea, but in vain. Thofe who were fent upon that errand bringing back no other fatisfaftion, than that they were not to be met with thereabouts ; and that befides that, Antonio and Manuel Kavalkanti, An- tonio Bezerra, John Peflb, and Cofmo de Krafto, were the fame day retired out of the Vergea to the Matta. The fame day Captain Wiltfchut was ordered to feize the public notary, Cafpar Pereira, dwelling in St. Lawrence, who was fuppofed to have drawn the before-mentioned aflbciation ; and it was refolved to fend a pardon to Antonio Kaval- kanti and John Pais Kaeral, who having a great family at home, might thereby be pre- vailed upon to quit the party of the rebels, whereby we fhould both weaken that of the enemy, and get a further infight into their defigns. Antonio de Bulbous being exa- mined at the fame time, ingenuoufly confefled that he had not the leall knowledge of the confpiracy ; Sebaflian Karvalho being, notwithftanding his former confeflion, detained prifoner upon fufpicion till the 4th of Augufl, was, at his requefl:, difmilTed by the great council, after having given fuflicient proof that he was one of the three who wrote the letter concerning the intended confpiracy to the council. The 14th of June, orders were given to all the inhabitants of the Receif, and thofe living upon the back of the river, to furround their dwelling-places with pallifadoes, under forfeiture of two hundred gilders. And to render the companies the more com- plete, and to expofe our men to as little danger as might be of being furprifed by the enemy, all the fafeguards were commanded to be withdrawn by Mr. Haus, near the Receif, and in Serinham by Captain Fallo, who was likewife ordered to remove the garrifon of Huna to another place of more ftrength. The better to fupply the fcarcity of provifions in the forts, which, for want thereof, might be in danger of falling into the enemy's hands, orders were difpatched to the chief commanders, to feize upon what quantity of farinha (or meal) they flood in need of for the ufe of their refpeciive garrifons among the inhabitants of the country, which they were to be paid for by the commifl'aries of the company. It was alfo thought neceflary, that for the greater fecu- rity of Maurice's Town, the ditches of the fort Erneft;us fliould be made larger, as like- wife the Quinqueregular fort, which was put in execution by Haus, as Vice-admiral Lichthart took care to have two fpy-fliips pofl:ed, one betwixt the Quinqueangular fort and the fort Bruin, the other beyond Baretta, to prevent any furprife on that fide at low-tide ; it was alfo refolved not to let any Ihips or boats go out of the Receif without a pafs nieuhoff's brazil. 759 a pafs from the great council. The major of the city militia was ordered to keep the reft of his officers with the foldiery in readinefs againft the 1 7th, to pafs the review, the fame day being alfo appointed to the garrifon for that purpofe ; feveral new commanders were alfo chofen for the militia, inftead of thofe that were ready to return into Holland. The fame day Paul Linge fet out on his journey into Parayba, being furniftied with fifteen hundred foldiers for neceifary occafions : and Bernardino Karvalho, who had abfconded for fome time, had, at his requeft, leave granted him to come to the Receif to anfwer for himfelf. The 15th, John Peflba, mafter of the fugar-mill Pantelio, one of thofe that were ordered to be fecured, defired leave alfo, in a letter to the council, to appear be- fore them, his flight being occafioned not by his guilt, but only fear, which was granted him, as well as the requeft of Father Lawrence Alkunha, upon the fame account. On tlie 1 6th, early in the morning, we received fecret intelligence, that Andrew Vidal, at the head of one thoufand Portuguefe, and Kamaron with d'Indeos Rondelas, and Henry Dias, \vith a body of armed negroes, had pofted themfelves above St. Anthony, near the fugar-mill Topekura. The fame day John Karnero de Maris, and Francifco Dias del Gado, both mafters of fugar-mills in the diftri£l of Pojuka, ordered to be apprehended, were brought prifoners to the Receif, and Amador da Rouje, and Pero Marinha Falkao, inhabitants of St. Anthony, who had hitherto abfconded, did alk permiflion to come to the Receif to anfwer for themfelves, which was eafily granted. It was then taken into deliberation by the great council, whether, according to the laft intelligences received of the enemy's defigns, it were not moft expedient to remove our fmall camp from St. Lawrence to Moribeca, which, after fome debates, was agreed upon accordingly, thereby to fecure the paffage of the river Sangea, and confequently to remain mafters of the country as far as the Cape of St. Auftin, from whence both the camp and the Receif might conveniently be fiipplied, both with farinha and cattle ; whereas on the contrary, if the enemy ftiould be pofleffed of it, he might (as had been done in the former war) cut olf all fupplies coming from the fouth to the Receif. Purfuant to this refolution, orders were fent to Captain Wiltfchut to march imme- diately to Moribeca, to expetfl there the coming of the Brazilians, and fome further fuccours : in the meanwhile, to poft himfelf in the church, and to fortify the fame againft any fudden attack : and the aldermen of Maurice's Town were ordered to buy up the neceffary provifions, both of farinha and cattle, about Moribeca, for their ufe. A proclamation was alfo ifTued, commanding all the inhabitants of Serinham, Pojuka, St. Antonio, and Moribeca, without any exception, to repair well armed, both horfe and foot, with all polTible fpeed to St. Artrnio, there to lift themfelves for the defence of the open country, under the command of Colonel Gafpar Vander Ley, and Lieu- tenant-colonel John Heck : thofe that were not able to maintain themfelves at their own charge, being to receive their provifion from the company, like other foldiers : the faid colonel and lieutenant-colonel oS'ering at the fame time, to furnifh fifteen hundred Alqueras or meafurcs of farinha, for the ufe of our garrifons, for ready money. The fame day the great council received a letter from Antonio Kavalkanti (unto whom they had lately fent his pardon), in which he proteifed, that neither he nor the reft of the inhabitants of the Vergea were concerned in any cabals againft the ftate, iheir flight being occafioned only by fear of being imprifoned upon fufpicion, raifed againft 760 nieuhoff's brazil. againft them by their enemies. The anfwer of the council was to this effed, " That if he knew himfelf innocent, he fhould return to his mill, this being the only means to recover his former reputation." The great council having great reafon to fufpefl:, that Kamaron would endeavour to bring the Brazilians under their jurifdidion over to his party, refolyed, in order to fecure them in their intereft, to treat with Liftry, their commander-in-chief, to per- fuade them, to fend their wives and children into the Ifle of Tamarika, under pretence of fecuring them againft any attempts of the enemy, to which they might in all pro- bability be expofed in the open villages ; but in efled, to keep them as pledges of their fidelity. The fame day the council received fecret intelligence from Antonio d'Olivera, that the fuccours fent to the rebels from the Bahia, confifted in a confiderable number of Portuguefe, under the command of the brother of Kavalkanti ; of four hundred Brazi- lians, under the command of Kamaron ; three hundred Indeos Rondelas from Sertoa ; and fifty negroes, under command of Henry Dias. On the fame 16th of June, Mr. Slotenifki, enfign of the guards, was fent abroad to be at the campaign, with eleven fire-locks, and twelve Brazilians, who, returning the 24th of June, gave the following account to the great council : That he took his way from the Receif direftly to St. Lawrence, and from thence direftly to the village of St. Michael ; where being joined by his Brazilians, he marched through St.Fran- cifco to Kafura, from thence to Geyta, and fo further through the Matta to St.Sebaf- tian, where all the inhabitants had left their houfes. At St.Sebaftian he paffed the river Topikura, and coming to John Fernandes Vieira's park, met there with good able horfes. The negroes told him, they had orders from their mafter to fly from before the Dutch, but to furnilh the Portuguefe with what they defired. From thence he marched to Antonio, and in his way thither did light upon a houfe belonging likewife to John Fernandes Vieira, where he found about fifty or fixty Iheep, with good ftore of poultry, intended for the ufe of the fick belonging to thofe rebels, or thofe come to their afliftance from the Bahia. They fore-warned him not to advance too far, he being likely to meet with fome troops in the park belonging to the fathers of St.Bento ; but coming thither, found both the Portuguefe and negroes fled. From thence he marched to a houfe belonging to Michael Fernandes, who above three months before had been ordered by John Fernandes Vieira, to provide a fufficient quan- tity of farinha for the ufe of the fuccours expeded from the Bahia ; which he lately had tranfported from thence to Pedro de Alkunha, where was the rendezvous of two companies of the rebellious inhabitants, where the faid Michael expedled a good ftore of cattle, bought by Vieira for their ufe, according to the information of a negro, brought by Slotenifki to the Receif. Near the park of Don Pedro d'Alkunha, he met with the fame mulat who had ftiot Captain Waldeck, and with two Hollanders who had committed murder, and were never pardoned. John Fernandes Vieira had pro- mifed to be with them againft Midfumnier-day. From thence Sloteniflci marched direftly to Una, and fo further to St. Luce, but met with nobody there except one monk, and fo returned to the Receif. On the 1 7th of June it was refolved by the great council, with the confent of the council of juftice, toifl'ue a proclamation for a general pardon, except fome few of the ring-leaders of the rebellion. The proclamation was as follows ; j1 Pro. nieuhoff's brazil. 761 A Proclamation for a general Pardon. " The great council of Brazil makes known to every body whom it may concern, that they being fenfible, to their grief, how many of their fubjefts, having been mifled by fome of the ring-leaders of the rebellion, have left their mills, wives and children for fear, as has been infmuated to them, of being difturbed, plundered, and killed by our draggling parties : we being willing to provide againft it, and to contribute as much as in us lies, to the profperity of our fubjedsj and their eftates, have thought fit to publifh their intention, to be, to defend and protedt the inhabitants of the open country, againft all evil-intentioned perfons to the utmoft of their power. And to reduce thofe who have left their habitations, to obedience, and prevent their utter deftru^on, we promife our pardon to all fuch as fhall within five days after fight of this our proclamation, make their perfonal appearance in the Receif, not excepting thofe who have been aQ:ually engaged in the faid rebellion (unlefs they are among the number of the chief ring-leaders^, provided they leave the rebellious party, and return to their former obedience ; and that they fhall enjoy the quiet pofleflion of their mills and lands as before, under our protection ; under condition however, that they fhall be obliged to take a new oath of allegiance to the ftate. Thofe on the contrary, who fhall perfift in their rebellion, or fhall affift the rebels under what pretence foever, are hereby declared enemies of the ftate, who have forfeited their lives and eftates, whofe perfons and eftates fhall be liable to be profecuted with fire and fword," &c. This proclamation being immediately tranflated into the Portuguefe tongue, was fent the next morning to St. Antonio and the Vergea to be publifhed there ; feveral copies were alfo diftributed among the friars, in order to publifh them from the pulpits, and caufe them to be affixed to the church-doors. The 1 8th, good ftore of provifion and ammunition was fent to the fort Keulen and Rio Grande, and the garrifons of both thefe places forewarned to keep upon their guard. At the fame time the proclamation of pardon was fent thither to be publifhed ; and Antonio Parayba, chief of the Brazilians in thofe parts, was fummoned to keep his Brazilians in readinefs with their arms, whenever they fhould be commanded to give proofs of their fidelity to the company. The 1 9th of June, two inhabitants of Porto Calvo, that were landed but the fame morning in a fmall boat on the Receif, brought news to the great council, that Kama- ron, at the head of the Brazilians, and Henry Dias, with his armed negroes, confifting in feven companies, had pofted themfelves in the Alegoas, near the fugar-mill Velho ; that their number was increafed fince to four or five thoufand men, by the conjunction of thofe who were pafTed the river St.Francifco through the Matta, and that they had begun to commit open hoftllities ; fo that now the council had not the leaft reafon to doubt any further of the defign of the Portuguefe. The commander of Porto Calvo fent word much to the fame purpofe, and that he prepared for a vigorous defence. The firft effefts of this infurretKon broke out in the diftrid of Pojuka, and confidering that our whole force there confifted only in thirty men, under Jacob Flemming, a lieu- tenant, orders were fent him to retreat to St. Antonio, there to defend themfelves with their joint forces. The firft beginning of hoftilities was made by thofe of the Pojuka, by feizing upon two boats, all the paffengers of which they took prifoners, and flew them afterwards, except one feaman, who had the good fortune to efcape. This done, the inhabitants both of the village and the open country chofe for their head Tabatinga Amador d'Arravio, whereby they cut off our communication with the Cape Auftin by VOL. XIV. s E land. 762 nieuhoff's brazil. land, and all about to the fouth, befides that, the fort on the faid cape could not, but with great difficulty, be fupplied with water from the river. The 20th of June, a Brazilian arrived very early in the morning in the Receif ; his errand to the council was, that he being fent by John Blaar, from Porto Calvo, wiiii letters to the great council, was fet upon by thofe of Pojuka, near Kamboa, who took from him the faid letters, and killed his companion. For the reft he told them, Lhat Kamaron was ported in the diftrift of Porto Calvo, and that Captain John Blaar was in the fort. A council being called, to confider of the beil means to fecure the D'Jtch Brazil againft any attempts of the enemy, the firft thing that fell under debate was, whether, according to the general advice of thofe of the inhabitants, who wifhed well to our government, it were not moft expedient for our defence, to form a camp to make head againft the enemy in the field ; who, if once mafter of the open country, would force the hihabitants to join with him, and cut off our provifions, without which we could not fubfift long. The next thing to be taken into confideration was, where to find forces for this camp, the garrifons being fo weakly manned, as not to be able to fpare any, and the body under Captain Wiltfchut confifting only of one hundred and twenty men, befides the three hundred Brazilians, to be joined with '.lim. Con- fidering, therefore, that the whole force in the Alegoas conlifted only of two com- panies, under the command of Mucheron, a number not any ways proportionable to the extent of fo large a traft of ground ; it was judged moft convenient to make a virtue of neceflity, and to draw them from thence to the Receif, a* indeed they had been ordered before. But their way by land being cut oft" by the rebels of Pojuka, a veflel, which lay ready to go out a cruifmg, was ordered to Porto Francifco, with others to Mucheron, to embark forthwith thofe forces aboard her, without having any regard to the baggage ; but the reft, which could not be put aboard the veflel, fhould be fent by land to Rio Francifco, to reinforce Captain Koin, for the better defence of that place. Captain Fallo was likewife ordered to march with the garrifon of Serinham to St. Antonio, it being not likely that the troops in Serinham fbould be able to make head there, after^the coming of Kamaron into Porto Calvo, it being an inland country. The fame day, forty new-lifted foldiers were fent to Tamarika, under command of Captain Peter Seuliin, mafter of the fugar-mill Harlem ; becaufe this ifland was of the greateft confequence to us ; and the garrifons of the fort Orange, and the town of Schoppe, confifting each of one company, were very weak, and the armed inhabitants did not amount to above one company more. The fame day Mr. Bas and Mr. Van de Voerde, counfellors of the court of jultice, were ordered to examine Gafper Pereira, the public notary, concerning his drawing of the inftrument of aflbciation ; as Hkewife John Kariero de Maris, Francifco Dias Del- gado, mafters of fugar-mills, in the diftrift of Pojuka, and Sebaftian Karvalho, con- cerning what they knew of the intended confpiracy. Karvalho declared a fecond time, at the houfe of Lieutenant-colonel Haus, that fome days ago (he could not remember exadly which), a certain Portuguefe fervant, whom he knew not, did come to him in the name of John Fernandes Vieira, with a letter, in which the faid Vieira defired him to fign the inclofed writing, drawn in form of an aifociation, to take up arms againft the government, as foon as they fliould receive any fuccours from the Bahia ; which at that time was fubfcribed only by John Fernandes Vieira and Lewis da Cofta Sepulpeda; but, as he fuppofed, was to be carried to moft of the inhabitants. He further declared, that he refufed to fign the faid writing upon the bare letter of John Fernandes Vieira, and the hand-writing being un- « known nikuhoff's brazil. 763 known to him, he fent both the letter and inftrument of affociation back by the fame lad that brought it, with his anfwer by way of mouth, that he could not fubfcribe it. Having more maturely weighed the matter, he fent the fame evening to his friend, Fernando Vale, to defire him to give him a meeting the next morning upon the hills of Garapes ; which being done accordingly, it was agreed aniong them to give notice of this confpiracy to the great council, in a letter without a name. This letter, with the fubfcription of Plus ultra, was writ by Vale, and about ten days after given him to read in a baker's houfe in the Pont-ftreet, and afterwards given to Abraham Merkado, the phyfician, who delivered it to the great council. The fame day, the 20th of June, the great council received a letter from Mr. Ley and Hoek, dated at St. Antonio, importing, that the whole Fregefie had taken up arms, and made fixteen or eighteen Dutch inhabitants prifoners ; "that they had fortified the church againfl thofe of Pojuka, whom they did not queflion to force from thence, provided they received any fuccours from the Receif. The council having taken the whole matter into ferious deliberation, and confidering with themfelves, that, as the cafe then flood, they had no great reafon to fear any rebellion in the north, in Parayba, and Rio Grande, as long as our fleet remained near the Red Land, and judging it highly neceffary to bring the rebels in Pojuka to reafon, and by their punilhment to deter the refl from attempting the like, they ordered Lieutenant-colonel Haus, with a detach- ment of a hundred men, to march the next morning to Moribeca, there to join with Captain Wiltfchut and the Brazilians, and fo continue their march to St. Antonio ; from whence they were, with their joint forces, to go diredtly againfl the rebels of Pojuka, to reduce them to obedience ; it being otherwife to be feared that they would cut off all communication betwixt the Receif and the garrifons to the fouth. This expedition proved fo fuccefsful, that the rebels were put to flight, and Lieutenant- colonel Haus made himfelf mafler both of the town and convent, forcing them to quit all the paffes thereabouts ; and forty prifoners were releafed, whom they had loaded with irons in the faid monaflery. But having received intelligence of the ap- proach of Kamaron with his whole body againfl him, he defired further fuccours from the great council to keep the field ; but the garrifon of the Receif being too much weakened already, they could fend him no other reinforcement till the expefted fuc- cours fliould arrive from Holland. The 2 1 ft, it was refolved by the great council, to proclaim a general faft all over Dutch Brazil, to be kept the 28th of June, to return thanks to God Almighty for the great mercy fhewn to them on feveral occafions, but efpecially of late, in the timely difcovery of the treacherous defigns of their enemies, who intended to have furprifed them when they were leaft aware of them. The defign of this confpiracy was laid thus by the Portuguefe : they intended, in the Whitfuntide holidays, to make folemn rejoicings, with feafting, tournaments, and fuch like, on occafion of feveral weddings appointed for that purpofe, unto which were to be invited all the chief men of Dutch Brazil, both civil and military ; whom, after they were flufhed with wine, they intended to murder, in imitation of the Sicilian vefpers, or the noted Parifian wedding ; not queftioning but that, when the heads of the Dutch Brazil were cut off, the refl, when attacked at once in divers places, would fall an eafy prey into their hands. But being prevented in this bloody defign for that time, Midfummer-day was pitched upon, as moft proper for the execution of it, when the fhips were departed out of the harbour of the Receif. For the Portuguefe were not ignorant, that we, having received no frefh fupplies, efpecially of gunpowder, for a confiderable time, out of Holland, our magazines were but very indifferently fup- 5 F. 2 plied} 764 nieuhoff's brazil. pHed, both with ammunition and provifions ; and that confequently we muft foon be reduced to great extremity, if they were mafters of the field : they knew aifo, that all our (hips, except two, were ready to fail with the firfl fair wind, being already fallen down to^the Red Land ; thus being fenfible of our weaknefs, the Portuguefe propofed to themfelves no lefs than the conqueft of the whole Dutch Brazil at one ftroke. But the whole defign being difcovered before Midfummer-day, it vanifhed into fmoke, both fides betaking themfelves to decide the matter by arms. The Portuguefe pretended not fo much the allegiance due to their King, as liberty of confcience ; not with (landing which, we have all the reafon in the world to imagine, that this infurreftion was undertaken not only with the knowledge, but alfo at the inftigation of the court of Portugal, andofthofe of the Bahia; it being very improbable that Kamaron, Henry Dias, and the reft of the ring-leaders, (liould, without the approbation of the King of Portugal, have attempted to attack us by open force. Befides this, Mucheron declares to have read, in a Portuguefe commiflion, thefe words : " This revolt and war, undertaken for the honour of God, the propagating of the Roman Catholic faith, for the fervice of the King, and common liberty." He further adds, that he has heard feveral Portuguefe fay, that if they mifcarried in their defign of chafing us out of Brazil, to deftroy all with (ire and fword, thereby to bereave us of all future profpeft of receiving any benefit from thofe lands ; which done, they would re- tire with their wives and children to the Bahia, or fettle in fome more remote place, where they might be fecure againft any attempts of the Dutch. There have indeed been fome who, confidering the unfettled eftate of the King of Portugal, and the odd fancy of his reign, have thought it very improbable he (hould involve himfelf in a war with us, or have given his confent to this infinuation ; but the event has fu(ficiently con- tradicted that opinion. The 2 2d of June a letter was delivered to the great council, figned by John Fernan- des Vieira, Antonio Kavalkanti, John Pefcoa, Manuel Kavalkanti, Antonio Bezerra, and Cofmo de Crado Pafos, in which they complained, that they being a confiderable time ago accufed by the Jews of a treacherous defign againft the government, had been great fufferers upon that fcore ; that now they being informed by the fame Jews that they were in danger of lofing all their mills and lands, to be given to certain Hollanders, who were fent for for that purpofe, they defired that the time of five days appointed in the laft pardon might be prolonged, as being too (hort for a bufinefs of fuch moment, and that the faid pardon might be granted without exception ; which they refufing to grant, they did hereby proteft before God and all the Roman Catholic Princes, that they thought themfelves innocent, and not in the leaft guilty of all thofe miferies which might enfue from this refufal hereafter. The 23d, in the morning, the council was a(rembled to confider of the faid letter ; where, after feveral harangues upon the prefent ftate of our alFairs, and the enemy's defign againft us, they were divided in their opinions, fome being for granting a gene- ral pardon, without the leaft exception, as the cafe ftood with us at prefent, when we were deftitute of fuflficient provifion, ammunition, and men ; others maintained, that a letter which contained fo many notorious untruths deferved not the leaft anfwer ; others were of another opinion. Whilft they were thus debating the matter, letters were brought to the council, written by Lieutenant-colonel Haus, from St. Antonio, that he was ready to attack the rebels of Pojuka the next day, not without hopes of good fuccefs, fo that the council, confidering of what moment the event of this action was to their affairs, refolved to adjourn the faid debate till the next day, when they hoped to know the iffue of the whole enterprize. The nieuhoff's brazil. 765 The 28th of June Mucheron arrived with his two companies in the Receif, from the Alegoas, where it was refolved to difpofe his own company in Quinqueregular fort, of which, as a place of great confequence, he was made commander-in-chief ; the other of Captain William Lambert was put in the fort Erneftus. By letters from Paul Linge, governor of Parayba, dated the 25th of June, we re- ceived advice that the inhabitants thereabouts offered to give him frelh aflurance of their fidelity, by taking a new oath of allegiance, and that he did not obferve the leafl motion towards an infurredion. Jacob Daffine, mafter of the fugar-mill Supapema, who had been abroad with a good party, made his report to the council, that he had been at feveral fugar-mills, where he had met with about two hundred of the enemy's troops divided into divers fmall bodies, compofed of Portuguefe, mulats, and negroes, under the command of Amador de Araouje, Antonio de Crafto, one Taborda, and Htnry Dias. The 29th of June, by fpecial commiHion from the council, Balthafar Vander Voer- den examined Antonio d'Oliveira, concerning the defign of the Portuguefe formeci againft our government. He declared, that about the beginning of this prefent June, being then at the houfe of Sebaftian de Karvalho, together with Francifco d'Oliveira, Bernardin Karvalho, and the before-mentioned Sebaftian de Karveilo, a certain Portuguefe very well known to them all, delivered to him a letter, direded to all the perfons there prefent, with another piece of writing unfealed, which he began to read ; but finding the contents to be, that the under-written perfons promifed to be, and declare themfelves faithful fubjects of the King of Portugal, and that John Femandes Vieira, Francifco Beringel, Antonio de Sylva, and feveral more, whofe names he would not look upon, had figned the fame, he returned the faid writing, and refufed to fubfcribe the fame, telling his fon at the fame time, " You ought rather to fuffer your hand to be cut off, than fign this paper ;" and fo went his way im- mediately, not any one of all there prefent having fubfcribed their names at that time : he protefted he knew not the hand-writing. After a more ferious confideration, he thought it requifite to make a difcovery of it, which he did accordingly within two days after to Matthew Reex, defiring him to give an account of it to the great council ; he declared further, that the faid writing was figned by above one hundred of the in- habitants. The 30th of June, one Digos Lopes Leyte, who was not long ago taken prifoner by the Brazilians, was examined by Mr. Bulleftraet, Dortmont, and fome other military officers. His confeflion was, that at the firft beginning of the defign of the Portuguefe againft this ftate, they had fent a letter to the governor of the Bahia, Antonio Telles de Sylva, to crave affiftance from him, which if he refufed, they would feek for aid in Spain ; and if they 'did not fucceed there, they would rather furrender themfelves to the Turks, than endure any longer the ill-treatment they met with from the Hollanders. That neverthelefs he had heard many dire imprecations made againft John Fernandes Vieira ; that he deferved no lefs than the gallows, he having railed this rebellion for no other end, than thereby to free himfelf from the vaft debts he owed to the company. The fame day it was agreed to fend abroad a party of twelve foldiers and eight Bra- zilians, to fetch a good quantity of farinha from St. Lawrence, who were put to the rout near that place, fo that very few efcaped. At the fame time the council received the unwelcome news, that fome of the inhabitants of Iguarafu had taken up arms againft them. In the beginning of July it was refolved to draw the fortifications of Maurice's Town into a narrower compafs, and to add a new line with a breaft-work. This talk •was 766 nieuhoff's brazil. was performed by the negroes belonging to the inhabitants of Maurice's Town and the Receif, under the conduft of Vice-Admiral Lichthait, who took care to have the fame perfected, according to the model drawn by the engineer. The fame day advice was brought that John Lawrence Frances and John Dias Leyte, inhabitants of Iguarafu, made it their bufinefs to incite the inhabitants to an infurrec- tion. Captain Sluyter fent alfo word from Tamarika, that about eighty men, and one hundred and ten women and children, all Brazilians of the villages of St. Michael and Naffau, were come into that ifland for fhelter, and that the Brazilians of Otta intended to do the like. The magiftrates and chief Portuguefe of Goyana, gave the council frefli afTurances of their fidelity, provided they might, in cafe of necefliry, be allowed to retire into the faid ifland, which was granted, and thanks given them for their loyalty. The magiflirates of Iguarafu advifed, that Vieira had caufed a declara- tion to be aiSxed in the fugar-mills of Gonfalvo Novo de Lira, which they had ordered to be torn down, and fent a copy of it to the council, affuring them, that they would take all poflible care to keep the inhabitants thereabouts under obedience, though they found fonie of them much inclined to revolt. At the fame time Fernandes Vale was examined by Mr. Vander Voerde and Mr. Bas; he declared, that having received a letter from Sebaftian de Karvalho, to meet him the next morning upon the hills Garapes, becaufe he had fomething to communicate to him, concerning no lefs than their eftates, lives, and honour ; he, without mentioning any thing of it to his wife or brother, went thither on horfeback, accompanied only by a boy ; notwithftanding he happened at that time to be afflided with the gravel ; there he met Sebaftian Karvalho, with one boy only, who told him, that he having received a letter, with another writing, containing a project of an infurreftion to be undertaken againft the government, he thought it abfolutely neceflary to give notice thereof to the great council ; and that he defired him to write a letter accordingly to the council ; he being pretty well verfed in the Dutch tongue. That Vale aflved him, whether any body befides himfelf knew of the matter ; unto which he anfwered, that his brother Bernardin did ; whofe opinion was likewife to difclofe it to the council ; hereupon they returning each to their refpedive homes. Vale writ a letter in Portuguefe, purfuant to the inftruftions he had received from Karvalho, for whom the faid letter was left to perufe in a baker's houfe, on a public fair-day for the fale of negroes ; after which he had fent the faid letter inclofed in another, to Dr. Merkado, defiring him to fee the fame carefully difpatched to the great council, without mentioning the con- tents thereof. The great council receiving frequent intelligence that the Portuguefe from the Bahia intended to fend a fleet to the aihltance of the rebels, it was refolved to fend orders to the four fliips, the Amfterdam, the Blackmore, the North Holland, and Groningen, then at anchor near the Red Land, in order to their return to Holland, to return forth- with to the Receif, the government ftanding in great need of their afliftance, to prevent the conjunftion of the forces from the Bahia with the rebels. They received alfo letters from Lieutenant-colonel Haus, dated at Pojuka the 26th of June, aflliring them that he had granted pafles to above two hundred perfons that were returned to their duty ; that two or three of the ring-leaders, excepted in the laft pardon, fued for the fame favour, and that he had caufed one Francko Godinho, one of the chief of the rebels, taken by his people, to be hanged on the gallows he had ereded himfelf; that Amador d'Araouje being gone from thence with a hundred and fifty men to the Vergea, to join with Vieira, he expefted their orders whether he Ihould follow him, he looking upon it as a feint to draw him from thence. He further told them, that with the 1 2 Brazilians nieuhoff's brazil. 767 Braailians and their wives and children, he was above five hundred ftrong ; and that unlefs they were foon fupplied with provifions from the Receif, they fliould confume all the cattle thereabouts. The great council fent an anfwer the fame night to Lieutenant-colonel Haus, requiring him to grant free pardon to all who fhould defire it, not excepting the ring-leaders themfelves, thereby to weaken Amador d'Araouje and his 'party. That with what forces he could fpare in Pojuka (after fufficient provilion made for the defence of the garrifons, according to their own difcretion), he fhould march to the Receif, in order to attack Viera, where they need not fear but to be able to fubfifl upon what the faid Vieira had laid up for the ufe of the expefted fuccours of the Bahia, and the cattle belonging to the rebels. But whilft Lieutenant-colonel Haus was employed in fecuring Pojuka againft their attempts, thofe of the Vergea ftrengthened themfelves with all poffible diligence ; to further which, John Fernandes Viera and Antonio Kavalkanti, who ftyled themfelves the heads of this war, did not only affix their declarations round about Maurice's Town, and in Iguarafu, inciting the inhabitants to rebellion, by promifmg them con- fiderable fuccours from the Bahia, but their parties alfo, which they fent frequently abroad, forced thofe of the open country to take up arms, killing fuch as refufed. The fame was praftifed by Amador d'Araouje in Pojuca ; fo that, what with provifions, what with threats and force, they got together a confiderable body in the Vergea, we being not in a capacity to prevent it, becaufe what forces we had were in Pojuka. But judging it abfolutely for our interefl to flop as much as poffible thefe proceed- ings, it was refolved to arm fome of the lufty young fellows with firelocks, which they were furniffied withal by the citizens (there being none in magazines), and to join with them a detatchment of the garrifon, befides a hundred Brazilians, that were lately arrived under Peter Potti. Purfuant to this refolution, Captain John Blaar received orders to put himfelf at the head of three hundred men, with whom he was to march with all imaginable fecrecy from the Receif, and by lying in ambuffi near the paffes, to endeavour to intercept fome of the enemy's troops, not queftioning but that out of the pnibners they fhould be able to learn where Vieira was ported with his main body, and of what flrength both he and the fuccours from Bahia was reputed to be among them. He had ftrift orders not to moleft any of the inhabitants who were not in arms, but to proted them and their eltates, and to receive thofe who fought for mercy, and bring them into the Receif. Orders were alfo fent to Lieutenant-colonel Haus to march with what forces could poffibly be fpared out of the garrifons to thefouth, to the Vergea, in order to join with Captain Blaar, and endeavour to attack the heads of the rebels, which, if they could once put to the rout, might be a means to quench the whole fire of rebel- lion, and to reflore peace to the Dutch Brazil. The firft of July it was debated in council, whether all fuch perf jns as were fuf- pefted to have a hand in the confpiracy, ought not to be excepted in the pardon, or whether it fhould be granted to all that defired It without exception. The laft was refolved upon as conducing moft to the quieting the fubjefts minds. The 2d in the evening, the council received advice from Captain Blaar, that he Vt'as pofted at Mongioppe, with an intention to attack the enemy, wherever he met them. The 3d he marched to Iguarafu. The 4th, they received letters from Lieutenant-colonel Haus, from St. Antonio, importing that after having left a garrifon in Pojuka under Lieutenant Flemming, and one 768 nieuhoff's brazil. one hundred Brazilians in St. Antonio, he was ready to march to the fugar-mill Velho, and from thence to Moribeca, where he would expeft their further orders. At the fame time the inhabitants of Goyana having fortified themfelves in a certain houfe, belonging to Liftry their chief magiftrate, they defired the council to furnifh them with forty mufquets, for the ufe of fuch among them as were unprovided with arms. Their requeft was granted, and pofitive orders fent at the fame time to Servaes Karpentier, to take this opportunity to difarm all the Portuguefe, either by fair or foul means ; to efFeft which, he (hould keep the Dutch together in a body as much as poflibly he could ; his anfwer was, " he would endeavour to difarm the Portuguefe by fair means, he wanting power to do it by force." Befides which, he gave notice in his letter dated the nth of July, that every thing remained quiet hitherto in Goy- ana, but that the Brazilians, (contrary to his exprefs orders) claiming a prerogative to be commanded by none but their own officers, purfuant to a decree of the council of Nineteen, had, in their pafl'age to Tamarika, plundered feveral of the Portuguefe inhabitants. Moft of the rebellious Portuguefe had left their wives and children in their houfes and mills, which, as it tended to their no fmall conveniency, fo fome of the faithful Portuguefe inhabitants did propofe on the 3d of July to the great council, whether it would not be for our intereft to oblige thofe wives and children to quit their houfes and mills, and to fend them after their hufbands. Several reafons were alledged for it : 1. Becaufe the rebels being encumbered with their families, muft of neceflity make greater confumption of farinha, and other provifions, which would oblige them the fooner to alter their meafures, and to change their places. 2. That thereby they would be much difheartened, for fear of a vigorous attack. 3. That they would not be able to march or to change their camp fo conveniently as before, or to lurk in uninhabitable places. 4. That by the removal of thefe women, who ferved them as fpies by the help of their negroes, we fhould take away all opportunity from them, to be informed of our defigns. All which reafons being well weighed, the following proclamation was publifhed : A Proclamation for the Removal of the Rebels* Wives and Children. " The great council of Brazil, by the authority of the States-General of the United Provinces, His Highnefs the Prince of Orange, and the Weft India company, make known unto every body, that whereas many of thofe who have fided with the three head rebels, John Fernandes Vieira, Antonio Kavalkanti, and Amador d'Araouje, againft thisllate, have left behind them their wives, children, and families, which hitherto continue in their former dwelling-places ; we do by thefe prefents ftridly cominand all the wives and children, whether male or female, whofe hufbands and fathers are engaged with the rebels, to leave their refpeftive houfes within fix days after the publication of this proclamation ; and to repair to their refpeftive huftjands and fathers, or elfe to incur the penalties due to rebels ; it being our refolution not to take the fame into our pro- tection ; nay, to take away our fafe-guards from all fuch of our fubjeds as fhall be found to harbour or conceal thefe before-faid wives, children, and their effefts, unlefs the hufbands and fathers of thefe wives and children fhall, within the limited time of fix days, return to their dwelling-places, and fue for pardon to the council. " Thus decreed in the affembly of the great council of Brazil." 1 1 . About nieuhoff's brazil. 769 About this time near one thoufand Brazilians, among whom were three hundred -and fixty-nine men, the reft women and children, being retired to the ifle Tamarika, to (helter themfelves againft the rebellious Portuguefe, Mr. Dormont, counfellor of the finances, was fent thither in the beginning of July, as fupreme direSor of the territory of Iguarafu, to fecure that ifland which was of fo great confequence to the ftate, in our intereft. The 5th of July, a proclamation was iflued againft the three chief rebels, John Fer- nandes Vieira, Antonio Kavalkanti, and Amador d' Araouje, declaring their lives and eftates to be forfeited, offering a reward for the apprehending of them, as follows : A Proclamation for apprehending the three head Rebels. " The great council of Brazil, by authority of the States-General of the United Pro- vinces, His Highnefs the Prince of Orange, and the Weft-India company, fend greet- ing. Be it known by all, that whereas we are fully fatisfied that John Fernandes Vieira, Antonio Kavalkanti, and Amador d' Araouje, fetting afide their allegiance, have a confiderable time ago entered into a confpiracy againft the ftate, fending their letters throughout feveral Fregefies of our jurifdiftion, to excite our fubjeds to a revolt ; that they have gathered and ftill are gathering forces to maintain their treacherous defigns againft this ftate, forcing our faithful fubjeds to join with them, threatening with death fuch as refufed to enter into this rebellion ; nay, having caufed feveral, as well Hollanders as Brazilians, to be murdered upon that fcore. That they have affixed and publiftied declarations in feveral places, tending to the difquieting and difturbing the minds of the fubjeds of this ftate, with the name and title of governors of this war, (whereas they ought to have ftyled themfelves taithlefs traitors) covering their villainous defigns under the name of the Divine Majefty, befides many other mifdemeanors, whereby they have rendered themfelves guilty of high treafon. It is for thefe reafons that we thought it our duty to declare the above-named John Fernandes Vieira, Antonio Kavalkanti, and Amador d' Araouje, and by thefe prefents do declare them enemies of this ftate, difturbers of the public peace and our good fubjedls, rebels and traitors againft their lawful magiftrates ; and to have forfeited all their privileges, rights, lives, and eftates ; and as fuch, we grant not only free leave to every one to apprehend or to kill the faid John Fernandes Vieira, Antonio Kavalkanti, and Amador d' Araouje, but alfo promife a reward of one thoufand Charles's gilders, to fuch or fuch perfons as ftiall do fo fignal a piece of fervice to the company, as to apprehend either of thefe perfons, fo as they may be brought to juftice ; and the like reward to any perfon who ftiall kill either of the faid traitors, befides his pardon for any offence he may have com> mitted before ; and if he be a flave, his liberty, together with the reward. We alfo ftridtly command by thefe prefents, all the inhabitants of this ftate, of what quality, degree or nation foever, that they ftiall not prefume to affift the faid rebels with arms, provifions, money, men and ammunition, or harbour, conceal, or advife them in any refped, or keep the leaft correfpondence with them, under pain of being declared traitors, and to be puniftied as fuch with the utmoft rigour," &c. Whilft the great council were thus endeavouring to quench the flame of rebellion, they received frequent intelligence, that befides the fuccours already come to the rebels from the Bahia by land, by way of Rio St. Francifco, they expedf ed a confiderable fleet from thence ; it was refolved to fend once more fome deputies to the governor Antonio Telles da Sylva, to reprefent to him that Kamaron and Henry Dias being under his jurifdiftion, their entering in an hoftile manner into the Dutch Brazil, could VOL. XIV. . 5 F not 770 NIEUHOFF S BRAZIL. not be interpreted othenvife than a breach of the truce concluded betwixt the king of Portugal and Their High and Mightinefles the States-General. The perfons pitched upon for this purpofe were Balthafar Vander Voerde, counfellor of the court of juftice, and Dirk Van Hoogftraten, then commander-in-chief to the Cape of St. Auftin, who being looked upon at that time as a very loyal perfon, was fent for the 4th of July, leaving Barent Van Tichlenborgh, to command in his abfence. Francis Kyrnen Springapple was appointed their fecretary, and Gerrard Dirk Laet, Alexander Sylve, and Jacob Swearts to attend them as gentlemen. Their inftruftions were, to lay open to the governor the true reafon and occafion of this infurreftion, and the ring-leaders thereof, who would never have dared to attempt it without the hopes of fuccours, which were fent them by land through Rio St. Fran- cifco : they were to fearch into his intentions as near as poflibly they could, and to de- fire him to recal Kamaron and Henry Dias with their troops out of the Dutch Brazil, and to punifh them according to their deferts. If they found the governor not inclined to give them due fatisfaClion, by recalling thofe troops either by pubhc proclamation, or fending fome perfon of authority to bring them back, or by giving them fome other real demonftrations of his fmcere intention before their departure, they were to proteft to, and to declare themfelves innocent of ail the damages, murders, and rapines as well againft the Hollanders, as Portuguefe and Brazilians, already committed or to be com- mitted by thofe forces. They were to declare to the governor, that they would look upon it as an open breach of peace and afl: of hoftility, of which they muft give an ac- count to their mailers, who, without queftion, would know how to make themfelves amends for the damages fuitained ; and to proteft once more, that the Dutch declared themfelves innocent of all the miieries which muft enfue from their taking up arms for their own defence, after their fo reafonable requeft had been rejected. Accordingly they fet fail the 9th of July 1645, from the Receif, in the fhip called the Roebuck, and coming to an anchor the 1 7th in the Bahia, were, in the name of the governor Antonio Telles da Sylva, complimented aboard their fhips by feveral Portu- guefe gentlemen, from whom they afked leave to come aftiore, having feveral matters of moment to propofe to him in the name of the great council of Brazil. The next day being the i8th of July, about noon, Lieutenant-colonel Andrew Vidal, and Captain Pedro Kavalkanti, with fome other officers, came in a brigantine to fetch them to the palace ; where, after the firft compliments, they delivered their credentials, telling the governor, that out of thofe he would underftand that they were fent to treat with him of certain points, which they were ready to propofe, either now or whenever he fhould be difpofed to receive them. The governor, after the ufual return of com- pliments and perufal of the credentials, told them, that he was ready to hear them whenever they pleafed ; whereupon they propofed. That fome Portuguefe fubjefts of Their High and Mightinefles the States-General of the United Provinces, have entered into a cabal, in order to take up arms and attack Pernambuko ; to effedt which, they have by certain letters folicited their fellow-fubjeds to enter into a rebellion, and provided themfelves with arms, in hopes of fuccours from abroad. That in the beginning of May, Kamaron and Henry Dias with their Brazili- ans and negroes, and fome Portuguefe, being on their march in an hoftile manner to Pernambuko ; John Fernandes Vieira, Antonio Kavalkanti, and Amador d'Araouje, with other Portuguefe their accompHces, had no fooner notice of their coming, but they abfconded from their houfes, gathered what forces they could, fome by force, fome otherwife, publiftied their declarations, ftyling themfelves governors of this war for the public liberty ; all which they undertook upon hopes of being backed by foreign troops. That nieuhoff's rrazil. 771 That through God's mercy their mafters did not want power to protedl their faithful fubjeds, and to punifh the rebels according to .their deferts : but as they could not com- prehend what it was that could induce thefe foreign troops to enter their territories in time of peace, in order to aid their rebellious fubjefts againfl them, fo they were at a ftand how to deal with them. That the great council as well as all the reft of the inhabitants, being too well acquainted with His Excellency's extraction, exquifue know- ledge in ftate-affairs, and the good neighbourly correfpondency he had always cultivated with our government, than to harbour the leaft thought that he fhould give the leaft encouragement to any of his fubjefts, to aid rebellious fubjeds againft their fovereigns : that they were fenfible he would ufe all poffible means to prevent it. It was for this reafon that they were fent by the great council to give His Excellency notice of the hoftilities committed by Kamaron and Henry Dias, defiring that he would be pleafed not only to command them not to aiTift the rebels with their troops, but alfo to retire out of Pernambuko and the other captainfhips under the Dutch jurifdidtion ; that fo the rebels being difappointed of their affiftance, might be fooner reduced to their former obedience, and our fubjeds enjoy the benefit of the truces ftipulated betwixt His prefent Majefty of Portugal, Don John IV. and Their High and Mightinefles the States-General. All which, the great council of Brazil highly recommended to His Excellency's confi- deration, in a letter which was then delivered by the deputies to the governor, which is as follows : A Letter from the Great Council to the Governor of the Bahia. " It is fufficiently known to Your Excellency with what ftridnefs the truce betwixt His Majefty of Portugal and the High and Mighty the States-General of the United Provinces, has been obferved in all its circumftances by the inhabitants of the Dutch Brazil, even according to the conftitution of thofe of the Bahia and other places, who have of late pafled through our captainfhips ; neither have we ever received the leaft complaints upon that account, either from the King your mafter, or from Your Excel- lency ; all which gave us fufficient reafon to believe that you would not in the leaft confent that your fubjeds fhould attempt any thing contrary to the faid truce. And though fome of the Portuguefe inhabitants, fubjedls of the ftates, laying afide their al- legiance, have taken up arms and are rifen in rebellion againft this ftate, as foon as Ka- maron and Henry Dias at the head of their Brazilians and negroes, befides fome Portu- guefe, did without licence or the leaft encouragement from us, enter our territories, contrary to the law of nations, and joining with the rebels exercifed open hoftilities againft our fubjeds, not like foldiers, but robbers and thieves ; yet can we not be per- fuaded that thofe troops fliould have made this attempt by order or confent of His Ma- jefty of Portugal or Your Excellency, againft us your confederates. Thanks be to God, we do not want means to bring our revolted fubjeds to reafon, and to deftroy thofe foreign troops ; but to fhew to all the world how ready we are to fulfil the reiterated command of our mafters, to maintain inviolably the truce betwixt His Majefty and them ; and to remove all finifter interpretations which might be made in foreign courts upon this head, as alfo to give fufficient opportunity to His Majefty of Portugal and Your Excellency, to convince the world that you have neither confented to nor abetted this confpiracy ; we in the name of Their High and Mightineffes the States-General, His Highnefs the Prince of Orange, and the governors of the Weft-India company, have fent Mr. Balthafar Van Voerden, counfellor of the court of juftice, and Dirk Hoogftraet, commander-in-chief on the Cape of St. Auftin, as our deputies to you, 5 F 2 with t) ir^ nieuhoff's brazil. with full power to propofe thefe points to you, and to defire you forthwith to recall the faid Kamaron, Henry Dias, and other leaders, with their troops, within a limited time out of our territories, either by public proclamation, or fuch other means as Your Ex- cellency (hall think moft forcible or expedient, and to punifh them according to their deferts ; and if they refufe to obey, to declare them open enemies of His Majefty ; it being impoffible for us to conceive, how due fatisfaftion can be given without it to Their High and Mightineffes, to the Prince of Orange, and the Welt-India company, which nev^erthelefs we ought and do expect from Your Excellency. " (Subfcribed) Your Excellency's well-meaning friends, " (On the fide flood) Hknry Hamel, A. Van Bullestraten, " From the Receif, P. J. Bas, " July 7, 1640. J. Van Walbeck, and Henry de Mucherox." The governor gave immediate anfwer to the deputies propofitlons, that he was fo far from fending any fuccours to the rebels, that he had not had the leaft knowledge of it. That the Brazilians and negroes were difbanded by His Majefty's order, and that thefe as well as the Portuguefe among them, that were come to the affiftance of the rebels, could be in no great numbers, confilting (as he fuppofed) in fome vagabonds, or others, who having connnitted mifdemeanors in the Bahia, had taken this opportunity to fliel- ter themfelves, and flee from punifliment, as it frequently happened that fuch-like per- fons did come to the Bahia from Pernambuko, which neverthelefs had given him not the leaft fnfpicion of the council's fincerity. He told them that he was extremely glad to underftand the good confidence their mafters repofed in him, of maintaining the truce concluded betwixt His Majefty of Portugal and Their High and Mightineffes the States- General, affuring them that he never lliould be prevailed upon to atl contrary to it, for fear of hazarding his life. And that if he had any fuch intention, he did not want means to attempt it by the afiiftance of the Brazilians. But that he had never had any thoughts that way, notwithftanding he had been provoked to it by the Dutch, who fince the truce had taken a Portuguefe Ihip and carried it to the Receif, which by the bravery of the Portuguefe was delivered from the Hollanders, and they and the fhip brought to the Bahia ; the Dutch mariners behig difmiffed without any punifliment. He told them further, that he was not infenfible what an opinion their mafters entertained of his fince- rity ; and that he had reafon to believe, that they had at this time as they had done be- fore, fent their deputies chiefly to feel his pulfe, to inquire into his ftrength, and to dive into his defigns. That however, he would communicate the letter to his council, and give them a fpeedy anfwer, in order to their return home, purfuant to the requcft of their mafters. Then the governor arifmg from his feat, the deputies took their leave and returned aboard. The 19th, in the morning, they were fent for afliore by a lieutenant, and brought to the houfe of Lieutenant-colonel Pedro Korea de Gama, where they dined in com- pany of Andrew Vidal and Paulo de Kunha. Towards the evening they were again conduced to the palace, where the fecretary defired them to tarry a minute, becaufe His Excellency was bufy with clofing his letters ; after fome ftay, they were introduced to the governor, who told them, that he had underftood the contents of the letter, which he found altogether agreeable to the propofitlons made to him the day before by way of mouth by them, which confifted chiefly in two points. Firil, nieuhoff's brazil. 773 Firft, the good opinion their mafters had of his fincere intention, in maintaining a good Gorrefpondency with them, in order to maintain the truce betwixt His Majefty and the States-General, and the confidence they had of his not being concerned in the re- bellion, either by encouraging or affifting the fame. Wherefore he defired they would continue in the fame fentiments, becaufe he never had made the leaft infradion of the faid truce, neither ever thought of any thing Hke it, nor fufl'ered any of his fubjeciis to ad contrary to it ; notwithflanding, faid he, the Hollanders have broke the fame in feveral refpeds, viz. in their expeditions againft Angola, St. Thomas, and Marinho ; by the plundering of Pedro Ceefar Mines, who had been bafely ufed during his impri- fonment, not hke a man of quality, being forced to fhelter himfelf among the woods after his efcape. They had alfo taken a Portuguefe fhip in his own harbour. Neither did the inhabitants of Pernambuko want reafons of complaint, as well as the other cap- tainfliips ; he had underftood out of feveral letters from thence, how the Jews were always bufy in forging accufations againft them, which were taken for truth ; and when the Portuguefe had thereupon abfconded themfelves out of fear, the Tapoyers, or mountaineers, were armed againft them ; among the reft, they had caufed a poor her- mit to be hanged. The great council had always given him fufficient proofs of their fufpicion, in the laft embaffy, being intended to no other purpofe (as Captain Hoogftra- ten could teftify) than to dive into hisj defigns and itrength. Thus it was reported and believed, that Andrew Vidal and Paulo Kunha, with feveral other officers, were fent by him into Pernambuko, though they faw them here before their eyes. Upon the fecond point, concerning the troops faid to be fent to Pernambuko, he gave for anfwer, that they muft be fome Brazilians and negroes lately difbanded, who were of little account, as we were fenfible ourfelves : that if a few Portuguefe were among them, they muft be fuppofed to be criminals who were fled from juftice ; that he was not unwilling to call them back by proclamation, but feared that he fliould be but flenderly obeyed, by a fort of people who could not be kept in obedience with- in his own jurifdidion. That to fatisfy our requeft, and to remove all reafons of com- plaint, he intended to fend his deputies Ihortly to Pernambuko ; all which he had more clearly expreffed in his letter to the great council, wherewith he would, according to the requeft of our mafters, difpatch us with all imaginable fpeed. The deputies replied, that their mafters had never entertained any fufpicion of His Excellency, neither had they given any orders to dive into his defigns ; but always had a favourable opinion of his firm adherence to the truce, as might be evidenced by Mr. Andrew Vidal, who, during his ftay with them, had liberty to go where he pleafed, without any attendance but his own. That what he objeded concerning the accufa- tions of the Jews was of no moment, the fame being never hearkened to, the intended infurredion being difcovered by perfons of unqueftionable credit. That John Fernan- des Vieira, Antonio Kavalkanti, and others their adherents, had always been proteded againft any falfe accufations, and had free accefs to all the counfellors of the court of juftice, and thofe of other colonies, as well as the chiefeft among the Dutch, fo that they had no reafon to abfcond out of fear for the Tapoyers, who never were intended to be employed againft them. That they did not know of any hermit that was hanged by them, but remembered, that in an engagement with Amador d'Araouje, fuch a one was fhot by the Brazilians as he was ringing the bell to give the alarm. They further told him, that though they had no orders to treat with His Excellency upon any other points than thofe that concern the rebellion, they could eafily make it out before all the world, that Angola, and the other places, were conquered accord- ing to the rules of war, without the leaft infradion of the truce, it having been ex- 4 prefsly 774 nieuhoff's brazil. prefsly ftipulated, that the war ihould continue in thofe parts till the fame was pub- liflied there. The Brazilians, negroes, and Portuguefe, were come in confiderable numbers into our territories, not like dilbanded foldiers, but well armed, and their coming was not unexpected, but well-known to the rebels ; but the council was not fo much concerned for their number, as to be fatisfied under whofe authority they had taken up arms againft them, that they might deal with them accordingly. But however it was, they defired His Excellency to believe, that their mafters would be extremely glad to underftand his good inclinations, that thereby the effufion of hu- man blood might be faved ; intreating him to fend his deputies forthwith with the neceflary inftrudtions. The governor promifed to fend his deputies foon after their return to Pernambuko, telling them, that as he thought himfelf fecure of the good neighbourly correfpondency of their mafters, fo he was refolved to continue in the fame on his fide. What he had propofed for the reft, had been only by way of difcourfe, not with an intention to enter into a difpute concerning the legality or illegality of it ; though it appeared very odd to him, that they fliould aftift his malter at home, and at the fame time wage war with him in other parts, under pretence that the peace was not publiflied there ; and what had pafied with Pedro Casfar de Mines was a thing not juftifiable in his under- ftanding. After the ufual compliments, he arofe from his feat, telling them, that he would fend the letter direded to the council to them aboard the next day, and fo our deputies returned aboard their ftiip. The 20th, in the morning, the fecretary of the governor came aboard our velTel, with the governor's letter to the council, which he delivered to the deputies, requefting in his mafter's name, to fend him a tranflation of the letter from the council to the governor out of the Dutch into the Portuguefe, fubfcribed with their own hands ; which they did, and having delivered the fame to the fecretary, he took his leave and returned afliore. Our people fet fail the fame day about noon from the Bahia to Pernambuko, where they arrived the 28th in the afternoon before the Receif, and gave an account the fame day of their negociation to the great council, unto whom they alfo delivered the letter written by Antonio Telles de Sylva, and direded to them. The contents of which are as follows : — The Governor's Letter to the Council. " Mr. Balthafar Vander Voerden, counfellor of juftice, and Captain Dirk Van Hoog- ftraten, commander-in-chief on the Cape of St. Auftin, Your Lordfhips' deputies, have deHvered your letter to me, in which you are pleafed to give me notice of the revolt of fome of your fubje£l:s againft you. I received this news as I ought to do, and fhould not have been able to receive it without the greateft furprife and difcoinpofure of mind, if I had not been affured in my confcience, that Your Lordfhips did not in the leaft imagine that this infurreftion could derive its fource from our government ; and, though I could upon this occafion enter upon a long recital of the proceedings of my government, tending, from its beginning till now, to a fufficient juftification in the eyes of all the world, and of the greateft kings and princes of Chriftendom, that the faid good correfpondency has been maintained as ftriftly on our fide, as the fame is promifed in Your Lordftiips' letter : but rather than give the leaft occafion of difguft or differ- ence, by enlarging myfelf upon thofe heads, in which your fubjedls have exprefsly and manifeftly violated the truce concluded and ratified betwixt the King my mafter, and th e nieuhoff's brazil. 'J']^ the States-General of the United Provinces, I will facrifice the fame to the intereft of our common neighbourhood, rather than to enter upon a particular account of thofe mifcarriages in the expedition of Angola, at a time when the States-General did affifl the crown of Portugal with their naval force, when our ambaffadors refiding in the Receif were told, that thefe troops were not intended to be employed againft any of His Majefty's harbours, but in the Weft Indies, though at the fame time they were embarked for the conqueft of Angola. The fame may be faid of the taking of the ifle of St. Thomas, and the city of Luy de Mapanha, and the feizing of a Por- tuguefe fhip upon our coaft, loaden with fugar from Spiritu Sancto. The com- miifary Greening was difpatched hither, under a pretext of buying of farinha, but in efFeft to found my inclinations, as he himfelf confefles, when he fays in a certain letter of his, " I was fent thither with this commillion, but rather to feel his pulfe and try his friendfhip, than that we were in want." The unfaithful dealings of the di- reftors of Angola in the capitulation with the governor Pedro Caifar de Mines ; the rafing of our fort Araval in Bengo ; the bafe treatment put upon the faid governor, being a perfon of quality, and a general of His Majefty's, are matters altogether inconfiftent with the rules of war, nay, with humanity itfelf, and contrary to the praftice not only of the more civilized nations of Europe, but alfo the barbarians themfelves. Of the fame ftamp was the anfwer given by your council to our ambaf- fador, who urging a ceffation of arms in the kingdom of Angola, was anfwered, that the fame had no dependency on our jurifdiftion, quite contrary to the fmcere inten- tions always obferved by me in all our tranfadtions with you ; for no fooner did Your Lordfhips make complaints to me againft one Captain Auguftino Condago and one Domingo de Rocha, who having carried away a barge with fugar, had brought her into the harbour of our city, I fent back the faid veffel immediately, and put the cap- tain in prifon till he was fent over to His Majefty. And that time being informed, that two fuldiers living under my jurifdiftion, whofe names were John de Campos and Domingo Velho Sigifmundo, had committed fome infolencies in your captainfliip of Pernambuko, I caufed them to be hanged immediately, looking upon it as a duty not to be difpenfed with by me, for the maintaining of our mutual good corres- pondency ; all thefe before-mentioned infraftions having never been able to make me forgetful of the reiterated orders of His Majefty, viz. to improve the effeds of the peace and alliances made betwixt him and the States-General, to our both fides fatisfac- tion : I muft at the fame time confefs, that looking upon myfelf as a foldier, (abftratled from the confideration of the intereft of the ftate, and the duty of a fubjeft) I thought I ought not to take tamely fo many affronts, and to let flip fo many fair opportunities of doing myfelf juftice ; much beyond what can be fuppofed to arife from the conjunc- tion of a few unarmed Portuguefe, a few difcontented negroes, and fome rebels, whofe proteftion cannot, as I faid before, come in any competition with the feveral oppor- tunities and provocations paffed by on our fide before, for the common intereft ; and that confequently our government cannot as much as be conceived to be the hidden caufe of this rebellion, as Your Lordlhips themfelves are pleafed to confefs ; neither would I have entered upon a recital of thofe particularities, if I had not thought myfelf obliged both in duty and affection, to give this fatisfa6lion to you. To give you the true account of the abfence of Henry Dias, you muft know, that one night he left his guard in Rio Real, and paffed over to your fide; Don Antonio Philippo Kamaron, captain of the Brazilians, being fent after him, and not returning, I judged that they were gone towards Mocambo, to attack the Palmairas of Rio St.Fraucifco, which made me (to avoid all fufpicion of being concerned in any thing that might tend to the 1 1 breach 776 nieuhoff's brazil. breach of peace) fent two Jefuits to perfuade them to return, but in vain, they refufnig to obey, either for fear of punifhment, or that they were already engaged with the rebels (as I now am apt to believe they were), fo that I have heard nothing from them fmce, except what I have underftood out of Your Lordfhip's letter. The Portuguefe under your jurifdiftion have fent to me the reafons which moved them to this in- furrection, imploring my affiftance, as fubje£ts of the King my mailer ; they told me, that they ftood in fear of being facrificed to the fury of four thoufand Tapoyers, fent for that purpofe from Rio Grande ; to avoid which, and dreading Your Lordfhips' anger, awakened againfl them by the falfe accufations of the Jews (the moft perfidious and irreconcileable enemies of Chriflendom), had rather chofen to expofe themfelves to a miferable flight, leaving behind them their wives and children, than to indure the hardfliips of a tedious imprifonmont. I could fcarce have imagined, that you could be fo far mifled by the fiftions of a people fo much defpifed by all other nations, as to be perfuaded by them, that certain perfons were fent from hence into your terri- tories, who have been feen here by your deputies. And though I am apt to perfuade myfelf, that fome of the Portuguefe would, as the cafe now (lands, be glad to embrace our prote£lion, it being much more natural to be opprefled by one's own King or Prince, than by foreigners : yet when I ferioufly reflefl: upon Your Lordihips' pro- pofals made by your deputies, viz. to oblige Captain Kamaron and Henrv Dias to return to the Bahia, and to ufe all other proper means to bring the revolted Portuguefe to reafon ; when, I fay, I ferioufly reflecl upon the public calamities on one fide, and how deflitute I am of fuitable means at prefent to fatisfy your defires, I cannot but be infinitely concerned thereat ; being fenfible that thefe- captains will not be brought over by perfuafions ; and wanting means to reduce them to obedience, who have now fettled themfelves at fo great a diilance among the woods and forefts. But as I am ready to conform myfelf in all refpeds to Your Lord(hips' defires, to convince you of the fincerity of the Portuguefe nation, which is fuch, that no opportunity, though never fo great, of promoting their own intereft, does ever (land in competition with what they think they owe to their confederates : I am willing to take upon me the office of a mediator, in order to endeavour to appeafe thefe troubles by my authority ; for which end I intend to fend to you with all poiTible fpeed, certain perfons of known ability, with fufficient inilruftions and power, to the rebellious to return to their duty ; which, if they decline, fuch meafures may be taken as will force them to it ; which, as I hope, may ferve as the mod eftedual means to refiore tranquillity to your dominions, and to cultivate the good opinion and correfpondency betwixt us ; which I wifli God Almighty will be pleafed to continue betwixt thefe two nations, by a perpe- tual tie of amity. " Bahia, July 19, 1645. (Signed) Antonio Telles de Sylva." Mr. Hoogftraten at the fame time gave a fecret verbal account to the great council, that foon after their arrival there, Andrew Vidal, Captain Paulo Kunha, and John de Soufa came to them, the lafl of whom fat himfelf down near him (Mr. Hoogilraten), inquiring fecretly after his uncle Philip Pays Baretto, whether he was among the mutineers ; to whom he gave for anfwer, that he was Hill in his mill. After which, the table-cloth being laid, Soufa was invited to flay at dinner with them, which he re- fufed ; becaufe, as he faid, he was upon the guard : before dinner was ended Soufa came back, and after the table-cloth was taken away, invited Mr. Hoogftraten and Kunha to fmoke a pipe with him in a back room, whither they went, but were followed by the fecretary, Mr. Springapple. As they pafl'ed through a gallery, Paulo de Kunha took iL, NIEUHOFF S BRAZIIft *j'j*j took Spnngapple a little on one fide ; and in the meanwhile, Soufa told IToogftraten with a Icud voice, that he was furprifed to hear that his uncle Philip Pays had not fided with the reft : unto which Hoogftraten anfwered, " That he thought he did very wifely to keep himfelf quiet, becaufe it was likely to turn to no good account.'* *' That is your opinion," replied Soufa, "but have a little patience; and becaufe I know you to have always been a friend to the Portuguefe, I can affure you it will turn to a confiderable account. And it is upon this fcore, I advife you, like a friend, to provide for your own fafety and your family. You may reft affured, that if you will engage to do a piece of good fervice to the King my mafter, and to the governor, you Ihall want neither money, fugar-mills, places, nor preferments." Mr. Hoogftraten, appearing fomewhat difcompofed at this difcourfe, told him, " That though he was not unwilling to do the King and governor what fervice he could, he did not know what fort of fervice he meant." Unto which Soufa replied, " I am fure you are able to do good fervice to the King." " But then," fays Hoogftraten, " you nnift tell me how. *' That I will," anfwered Soufa; " are you not governor on the cape of St.Auftin?" Unto which Mr. Hoogftraten faid, " Yes, I am." " Then," replied Soufa, " all that is required of you, is, to furrender the faid fort, with all its works, into the King's hands, that we may land our men thereabouts : if you will promife to do it, you fhall have a very ample reward, and be made commander-in-chief of our forces." Mr. Hoog- ftraten gave tor anfwer, " that thefe were things of fuch a nature, as were not con- fiftent with his oath and honour." Their difcourfe being interrupted at that time by the coming of another perfon into the gallery, John Soufa and Paulo Kunha went out another way. Mr. Hoogftraten told his fecretary, Mr. Springapple, with a difcom- pofed look, " What is the meaning of thefe dogs, do they take me for a traitor ?" He was going on to fay more, when Soufa and Kunha returning into the gallery, took him afide, and told him, " That he might be fure every thing ftiould be performed that had been promifed him ; that if he wanted any money, he fhould have it imme- diately ; and for the reft, they would introduce him alone to the governor, to receive the confirmation of it from his own mouth." Mr. Hoogftraten replied, " What you defire is not in my power to perform, if I would never fo fain ; becaufe I am promifed to have a commiilion of major immediately after my return, and then I fhall certainly be employed in another place." During this parley, Mr. Vander Voerde entered the gallery in company with Mr. Andrew Vidal, who entertained him all the while the others were talking together, till Hoogftraten, taking his opportunity as they were walking together, whifpei'ed Mr. Vander Voerde in the ear, " I wifh I was well rid of them, to talk a little with you in private, for I know not v/hat their defign is ; I am afraid they will either kill or detain me here." Mr. Vander Voerde would willing, ly have made a reply, but could not, by reafon Soufa and Kunha, and Pedro Korea TIEUHOFF*S BRAZIL. the revolt and troubles arifen among the Portuguefe inhabitants. But at our landing here, being informed that notwithftanding this requeft and our good intention, the Dutch had murdered many Portuguefe in cool blood (it being evident that they had cut to pieces feveral Portuguefe, who were inticed into a chu' ch for that purpofe), and that they had formed a camp to oppofe us, which ought to be a caution to us, not to leave any flrong holds behind us, whilft we are marching towards the Receif, we have thought it neceflary to enter into this capitulation, till fuch time that we may have the opportunity of concerting new meafures with the great council, of which the articles are as follow : " I. The commanders Samuel Lambert and Cofmo de Moucheron fliall have leave to march out of the fort and caftle, with the garrifon, with enfigns difplayed, all their arms, matches burning, &c. " II. They Ihall be permitted to march along the road with their enfigns, and fwords drawn, and Ihall be fafely conducted by one or more captains, who alfo fhall be ob- liged to provide them carriages and boats, for the tranfportatlon of their perfons and goods to the Receif. *' III. The Portuguefe oblige themfelves to reftore to Moucheron all what has beea taken from him, and belonged to him before the fiege. " IV. They alfo oblige themfelves to engage the inhabitants of the city as well as thofe of Kamara, to pafs by all pad injuries either by word or deed ; and that fuch of the Dutch as are willing to continue there, fhall be maintained in their poifeffions in the fame manner as the Portuguefe are ; and Ihall enjoy the fame privileges and their own religion, provided they do not preach in public, and pay due reverence to con- fecrated places. They Ihall be at liberty to traffic with the Portuguefe, and call in their debts as before, neither fhall they be obliged to take up arms againft the ftates of the United Provinces. " V. The Dutch officers (hall reftore to the Portuguefe all their Brazilians, with their wives and children, as being fubjefts of King John IV. whom God preferve ; and what relates to their reception and entertainment, is to be left to the difcretion of the chief commanders of the Portuguefe. " Upon thefe conditions they lliall be obliged to furrender the fort, with every thing thereunto belonging, this afternoon, but are permitted to provide themfelves with neceffaries for their journey, which they fiiall have liberty to perform at their own leifure. " (Signed) Andrew Vidal de Negreiros, Alvaro Fregoso d'Albuquerque, DiOGNO de Silveira, Lopes Laurenzo, Fereiro Betenkor, SuppoLiTo Abuko de Verkosa, and Sebastian de Guimares." Immediately after the furrender of the fort, Moucheron entered into a long difcourfe with the Portuguefe commanders, about their proceedings, which he told them were far diiferent from what the governor pretended in his letters, to wit, the appeafmg of the revolt of the Portuguefe inhabitants, according to the requeft of the great council. They anfwered him with tergiverfations, telling him that they would be very careful not to ad contrary to the peace eftablilhed betwixt the King his mafter and the States- General. NIEUHOFF S BRAZIL. 799 General. But it was not long before they began to lord It over the country, by taking fuch as were in the lead fufpefted to them into cuftody, and taking an account of thofe of the Dutch that had married Portuguefe women ; nay, they eretted a court of juftice of their own, and forced Moucheron to fell his flaves for the fourth part of what they were worth. They had fo little regard to the late articles, that they caufed thirty Brazilians, part of that garrifon, to be tied to the palifadoes, where they were flrangled ; the Portuguefe alledged in their behalf, that they had fuffered death for certain crimes they had confeffed themfelves, though it is more probable they were made facrifices to the difcontented Portuguefe inhabitants, that had made heavy com- plaints at the Brazilians. However, about thirty of them were fpared, and bellowed upon the officers to carry their baggage, and their wives given to the inhabitants. The Portuguefe made Alvaro Fregofo d' Albuquerque governor of the city and fort, and made one Francis de la Tour, a French deferter, captain over forty deferters, who had taken fervice among them. They alfo raifed three companies out of the Portuguefe boors or inhabitants, com- manded by Pedro Fregofo, Ignatius Ferrere, and Immanuel de Mello, which were put into Serinham for the defence of that place, where they alfo caufed two Jews to be baptized, called Jacquo Franco and Ifaac Navare. Moft of the Dutch who had any pofTeffions or fugar-mills thereabouts had fafe-guards allowed them, fo that none, except two, who came to the Receif, left that captainfhip, of which they had fufficient reafon to repent afterwards, being very ill-treated by the Portuguefe, as lliall be fhewn more at large hereafter. The 15th of Auguft in the afternoon, the garrifon of Serinham, confining only of thirty-two men (the reft having ftaid behind), arrived in a bark at the Receif ; and their commander-in-chief appeared the fame day before the council, where he gave an account of the reafons that moved him to furrender the place, notwithftanding which he was ordered to be examined by a court-martial, to anfwer the fame. The enfiga who had condufted the garrifon to the Receif, delivered the fame day a letter to the faid council, from Martin Scares Moreno and Andrew Vidal, dated the 8th of Au- guft, intimating that they were come into the Dutch Brazil, by fpecial command from the governor of the Bahia, and exafperating the outrages, they faid were committed by the Hollanders againft the Portuguefe. This letter had another enclofed from the faid governor, dated the 30th of July, with a proclamation, to be publifhed in the captainfliip of Pernambuko, whereby all the inhabitants were fummoned to appear peremptorily before them, within the fpace of eight days, to receive their direclions for reiioring tranquillity among them» The letter from Martin Soares Moreno, and Andrew Vidal was as follows : A Letter from the Portuguefe Commanders to the Council. * " When Your Lordfhips found yourfelves entangled by a dangerous confpiracy among the Portuguefe inhabitants of this captainfhip, you made your, applications to Antonio Telles de Sylva, governor-general of .Brazil, defiring him to make ufe of themoft eifeftual means he could to appeafe this rebellion. About the fame time the inhabitants of this coun- try by one unanimous voice implored his aid and protection againft thofe many affronts, plunderings, murders, and ravifhments of women they groaned under ; being refolved with joint confent to arm themfelves with flicks (the ufe of arms being taken away from them by their tyrannical governors) againft thofe oppreffions, and to defend their honour to the laft gafp j not queftioning but that God Almighty would take vengeance for 8oo nieuhoff's brazil, for the blood of fo many innocent people. They reprefented to His Excellency, that he was obliged by his ftation to aflift them in this extremity, as they were his country- men ; but it" that fliould not be prevailing enough, reafons of ftate would induce him not to force them to defpair by denying them his aid ; which if he did, it fhould be at the peril of his head, and that he mud give a fevere account of it before God Almighty, and others, if they fhould be conftrained to beg that from a foreign power which they could not obtain from their countrymen. The governor liaving taken al! thefe preffing reafons into mature confideration, and in refped both of Your Lordfliips' requefl^ and the heavy complaints of the Portuguefe, made it his chief care to find out the mod effe(5lual means (which Your Lordlhips feemed to leave to his difcretian) to appeafe this revolt. Being fenfible that the revolt of the Portuguefe inhabitants had taken deep root among them, and was likely to prove more univerfal againft your government, he judged it moll expedient to fend hither certain perfons with fuch forces as lie thought might either by their prudence, and if that failed, by force of arms, reftore the fo much-defired tranquillity. It is upon this account, my Lords, we are come to this place, in order to employ all our force and affiftance, according to your requeft, purfuant to the peace eftabliflied betwixt thefe two nations, in regard of which we value not the expences we have been put to upon this occafiou. But we fcarce had fet foot afliore, when our ears and hearts were ftruck with the doleful outcries of forty innocent Catho- lic Portuguefe, murdered in the church of Rio Formoia, whither they were enticed for that purpofe, by thofe that were in your fervice, without the leaft refpect of age or fex, the very babes being by the natives barbaroufly murdered as they were lying on their mother's breads. Neither have the fighs and groans of many noble maids efcaped our ears, that were ravifiied in the Vergea and St. Lawrence, by the Brazilians, not to mention here what barbarities have been committed in Pojuka, where is the fight of many a hermit and innocent, babe who were llaughtered in a cave. Neither have they abdained from holy and confecrated places ; they have cut to pieces the images of the faints, and dripped the queen of heaven, the virgin Mary, oUr blefled lady, of all her apparel ; things fo enormous, and never heard of before, enough to create horror and adonlfhment in a generous heart. And notwithdanding Your Lordfhips had de- fired the governor-general to interpofe his authority, you did form a camp, which continues in the field to this day ; and we being obliged by our orders to come to you upon the Receif, we judged it not convenient to leave any armed power behicd us, which in time might prove the occafion of great inconveniences to us ; we fliall ender- vour to diew all due refpecl and kindnefs to your fubjetls, and carry the garrifon of Serinham along with us, until matters may be concerted betwixt Your Lorddiips and us, for the fervice of God and the date. In the meanwhile, we mod earnedly defire a flop may be put to the outrages committed by your foldicrs hitherto, to avoid all occafion of a rupture on your fide ; we proted on the other hand, in the name of God and John IV. the King our mader, whom God preferve, as alfo in the name of tlie States-General, whofe power God encreafe, that we defire nothing fo much as the continuation of the late edablillied peace, which fliall be the guide of all our adions ; of which we have brought along with us an authentic copy, to ferve us as a fudicient judification by all the princes of Euroj->e. And that Your Lordfnips may be fatisfied in the reality of it, we have fent you enclofed a copy of the proclamation publiflied by us, at our landing in this captainlhip. God preferve Your Lordfliips. " Serinham, Aug. 8, 1645. Martin Scares Morf.xo. Andrew Viual ds. NKyuEiROs." The nieuhoff's brazil. 8oi The before-mentioned proclamation runs thus : Their Proclamation, " We the commanders-in-chief of the Portuguefe forces, Martin Soares Moreno and Andrew Vidal de Negreiros, make know n to all perfons and inhabitants of the captain- fhip of Pernambuko : that the great council of the Dutch Brazil, having by a letter fent to the governor and captain-general of Brazil, given advice of the revolt arifen among the Portuguefe of this place, defire to endeavour the appeafing of this rebellion by his aififtance ; for which purpofe the faid governor now having fent us with a fuffici- ent force into this captainlhip, we command all the Portuguefe, of what condition and quality foever, to appear peremptorily within eight days after the publication of theie prefents before us, in order to reflore tranquillity among them, purfuant to the requefn of the lords of the council of the Dutch Brazil. We alio hereby entreat the faid lords, in the mofl friendly manner that can be, purfuant to the tenour of the ftrid alliance there is betwixt both thefe nations, to flop the further perfecution of the Portuguefe, or any other warlike executions, and that if any of their foldiers prefume to aft contrary to it, they may, upon complaint made thereof to them, be feverely punilhed. " I Alexes Autunes have penned this proclamation, and I Franco Bravo Defembar^ quador have approved it. Martin Scares Moren'O. Andrew Vidal de Negreiros.'* The great council refolved to give a fhort anfwer to the faid letter, and to refute the proclamation by another ; and confidering, that the origin and caufe of all thofe troubles and mifdemeanours were laid at the door of the council, they ordered the two counfel- tors of the court of juftice, De Wit and Moucheron, in conjunftion with Mr. Walbeck, affeflbr in the fame court, to anfwer the fame, and thereby to reprefent to the council of Nineteen in HcHland, that they were occafioned by the rebels and their adherents. In the month of Augufl, the troops lately come from the Bahia marched from Serinham to Pojuka, and fo to the cape of St. Auftin, where, being joined by the forces under the command of Kamaron and Dias, and the inhabitants, they refolved (after our men had quitted Pojuka and the city St. Antonio de Cabo) to attack the fort Van- der Duflen on the cape of St. Auftin from the land-fide ; purfuant to which refolution they polled their troops all along both fides the river. The council in the meanwhile being forewarned of the enemy's defign, had ordered, the ad of Auguft, Mr. Adrian BuUeftraet, one of their own members, and Admiral Lichthart, to go thither with all fpeed, and to take effeftual care that nothing might be wanting for the defence of the place. They were for that end to take a full view of the fort Vander Duflen and all its out-works, and to confider whether the redoubt upon the hill called Nazareth, and the battery at the entrance of the harbour, might be repaired for the better defence of the fort. Accordingly Mr. Bullellraet and Admiral Lichthart left the Receif the 5th of Auguft, and arrived the fame evening in the fort Vander Duffen, where, having executed their commiflion, Mr. BuUeftraet returned the 9th of Auguft to the Receif, where he gave the following account to the council. That he left the Receif the 5th of Auguft, in the morning about nine o'clock, and came the fame evening to the fort Vander Duflen on the cape of ^t. Auftin. That the 6th of Auguft, after forenoon fermon was ended, he rid with the admiral, and fome other officers, to the hill of the cape of St. Auftin ; where, having taken a VOL. XIV. 5 K view 8o2 nieuhoff's brazil. view of the harbour, he found the ftone redoubt in a condition to be repaired, with- out any great charge, the cannon upon the batteries nailed up, but the works towards the fea-fide in pretty good order. That he had ordered a draught to be made, to furround the redoubt with palifa- does, to raife a battery within it, to build a guard-!;oufe, and to widen the ditches. He had alfo ordered a ftone breaft-work (for want of wood) to be made on the back-fide of the battery, with a row of palifadoes, and a guard-hcufe ; and that with the firft fair weather, they fhould fet on fire all the bufhes and brambles on the faid hill, and clear the ground round about the church Nazareth. Upon view of the fort Vander Duffen, he had commanded the major Hoocrftraten with all poflible fpeed to put it in a good pofture of defence, the admiral having already taken care to have it furrounded with palifadoes. That on the 7th of Auguft, having paid off the garrifon, and thole belonging to the artillery, he paffed through very difficult ways to St. Antonio, where he likewife paid off the foldiery, vifited the retrench- ment, and put every thing in the beft order he could. That he had bargained with certain perfons to repair the faid redoubt on the hill called Nazareth, and the ftone breaft-work, the building of two guard-houfes, and furrounding both the works with palifadoes, according to his draught, for nine hun- dred gilders, the whole to be completed within three weeks time. Here it was he had the firft notice of the landing of fome forces from the Bahia, near Rio Formofa, by the fame fleet which the week before was feen off the Receif. But not being able to get any fure intelligence, he had fent a meflenger to Lieutenant Montangie, then com- mander in Serinham, to give him a true account of the matter, and in what condition he and his garrifon were at that time ; encouraging him by fair promifes, all communi- cation by land being already cut oif betwixt them. Here he alfo lifted thirty-eight volunteers that offered their fervice. That the 8th of Auguft he left the faid place, and notwithftanding the badnefs of the weather, rid acrofs the hills of Hegendos to the fea-fliore, where, meeting with the admiral, they went together up the river Sangado with the tide, as far as Calandaria, where they ftayed for fome time, and received the news, that in the laft encounter betwixt Colonel Haus and the rebels near that hill, above two hundred of the laft, among whom were fome officers, were flain, and about forty or fifty on our fide. One Melchior Alvares came on purpofe to tell them, that about three hundred of the revolted inhabitants were inclined to accept of a pardon, which he referred to the council. That being ready to take horfe in order to his return to the Receif, a certain foldier of our troops, that had been left behind, complained that he had been ftripped ftark naked by the fervants of the ferryman of the river Sangado, who had >vounded and beat him miferably. Melchior Alvares was ordered to take care of his wounds, and Captain Piftor to go with twenty of his men in queft of thefe villains ; who, coming to the ferry, befet the houfe, took the ferryman and his three fons prifoners, but the mulat, who had committed the faft, efcaped their hands. That he purfued his journey on horfeback towards the Receif, notwithftanding the violent rains, and not without great danger paffed the river the fame night near the fort Emilia. That on the 9th of Auguft he was advertifed by fome negroes belonging to Mofes Navarre, whom he had fent with letters to D'Ingenio Surfacque, that an anibufh had been laid for them near Candalaria, but the enemy durft not attack them, their negroes being all fuch as were taken prifoners, and afterwards made their efcape to us. Major niel'Hoff'vS brazil. S03 Major Hoogllraten fent advice by his letters on the 13th of Auguft, to the council, that the garrifon and volunteers of St. x-\ntonio being fafely arrived on the cape of St. Auffcin, they were now about two hundred and eighty ftrong, viz. two hundred and feventeen foldiers and gunners, and fixty-three volunteers. That immediately after our garrifon had left St. Antonio, Kamaron and Henry Dias had ported thetnfelves with their troops in the fugar-mill Algodais, near that place, where they expeded to be joined by Martin Soare's and Andrew Vidal's forces, fafely arrived from the Bahia. That he expected every day to be befieged, and feared nothing fo much as want of frefli water, the fpring being cut off by the enemy. Hereupon immediate orders were given by the council to fend thither thirty barrels of water, fome ammunition and pro- vifion, and what elfe fhould be requifite for a vigorous defence of the place, which was fufficiently provided before with foldiers. The next following day they received intelligence from Major Hoogflraten, Mr. Ley, and Mr. Heck, that the enemy's troops had taken pofl in the fugar-mill Salgado Zuvifiaque and other circumjacent places. The council relied much upon the bravery and fidelity of the ofEcers within the fort, from whom they promifed themfelves a very vigorous defence, they being all perfons who had advanced themfelves in their fervices, and were in expectation of better pre- ferments, viz. Major Hoogftraten, Cafpar Vender Ley, formerly a captain of horfe, John Hick, and Albert Gerritfon Wedda, an old captain belonging to the company : but their unfaithfulnefs and covetous temper over-balanced all thefe confiderations ; for the faid Major Hoogftraten, commander-in-chief, with the confent of Cafpar Vander Ley, and Albert Gerritfon Wedda, treacheroufly and villainoufly fold and furrendered the faid fort to the Portuguefe, the 23d of Auguft, for the fum of eighteen thoufand gilders, befides fome other rewards promifed them upon that account. They went over with the whole garrifon to the enemy, who made Hoogftraten colonel of a Dutch regiment, raifed out of thefe and other foldiers of feveral nations, that had deferted our fervice. Thus this ftrong hold was betrayed to the Portuguefe, by a perfon who owed his whole fortune to our company. Martin Soares Moreno gave the following account of the furrender of this fort to the governor, Antonio Telles de Sylva, in his letter, dated from the hill of Nazareth, Auguft 26, 1645 : A Letter to the Governor of the Bahia, concerning the taking of the Cape of Puntael. " Sunday the 23d of this month, God Almighty, through his mercy, has put us into the pofleflion of the fort of the cape of Puntael, which w^s befieged by Andrew Vidal de Negreiros : the next day we were rejoiced with the money fent us by Your Lordftiip, and the wine prefented to me in particular, part of which I have beftowed upon entertaining fome of our friends, who are merry with me at this rime. " We have made an excellent bargain : for, befides the importance of the place and its artillery, we have got the very flower of their foldiers ; befides that, this will be like a fignal to the reft to follow their footfteps. " John Fernandes Vieira has raifed, on Saturday laft, the fum of four thoufand ducats for our ufe, though not without force, but it was very welcome to us at this time, when we were upon ftriking up the bargain for the better fortifying of this place, the harbour of which is not inferior to that of the Receif : but I will not trouble Your Lordftiip any longer with this point. *' Not long after the furrender of the fort, a bark appeared in fight, fent to its relief from the Receif. We fent Captain Barreiros, with a well-armed bark, out 5 K 2 againft 8o4 nieuhoff's brazil. againfl her, who took her, with thirty-five men, and good flore of gun-powder and bullets, ail which will prove very ferviceable to us. " I kindly defire Your Lordfhip, that in cafe you fend a meffenger with this news to His Majelly, Captain Damian de Lankois may be employed upon that errand, it being very probable that the King, befides a good prefent, will reward him with fome honourable employment. " Laft night we received advice, that the fleet under Jeronymo de Payva was entered the bay of Tamandare ; I am forely afraid they will be attacked by the fliips fert thither from the Receif, notwithftanding we have dofired him feveral times to come into our road. " Kapivara is gone from that place by land to the Bahia, perhaps he has given liim notice that we are mailers of the cape ; if he thinks fit to bring his fleet to this place, he is fafe, if not, it lies at his door. It is difcourfed here, that the fliip the Bifliop is miffing, perhaps he has a fancy to convoy Salvador Korrca fome part of the way. " I cannot forbear to let Your Lordfliip know how much you (land indebted to Major Dieterick Hoogftraten, and the reft of the commanders of the fort. We have promifed to the firfl; a commandery of Chrilh I beg of Your Lordfliip to make my promife good to him in His Majefty's name, as foon as poflible may be, he being a perfon who will be ready to do us all the further fervice he can. We have, for the prefent, engaged him with fome prefents of lefs moment, of which we fhall give an account to you hereafter. Captain Vander Ley has likewife deferved well of us, and fo have all the reft that had married Portuguefe women : it is reported here that he is a perfon of note in his country : we have likewife promifed to him a commandery of Chrift, and a yearly penfion for one of his fons : we hope Your Lordfhip will not refufe to make good our promife, becaufe his fons are born of a Portuguefe woman : the name of the eldeft being John, and the youngeft Cafpar Vander Ley. The refl are at prefent at their habitations, as foon as they return we muft engage them with foniv; promifes, of which we will give an account to Your Lordfliip. They are all of cou- fequence to us, having married Portuguefe women. I hope Your Lordfliip will be well fatisfied with this piece of fervice, for John Fernandes Vieira fometimes brings us more money in an hour than the conqucft of tlie cape cofts us. He is at prefent in the Vergea among the barbarians, and we in the fort in the cape, till we have got every thing in readinefs. Kapivara is about three days ago gone by land, poflibly he may be with you before the bark which carri^ this letter ; I wifli it may arrive in fafety, and to Your Lordfliip a long lift^ for the defence of this ftate. " (Signed) Martin Scares Moreno." Martin Soares Moreno and Andrew Vidal de Negreiros had in the meanwhile fent feven or eight letters from the cape of St. Auflin, dated the 23d, 30th, and 3 lit of Augufl, and the 2d and 6th of September, in which they advertifed the Admiral Payva, that they were in poflTeffion of that cape, defiring him by all means to come with his fleet into that harbour. The firfl; of the two laft letters was, thus written : Letter from the Portuguefe Commanders to Admiral Payua. " My Lord, " We are got now into the poflTeflion of the harbour of Nazareth, and that, as the faying is, without cufting an anchor j which is the realbn we intreat you likewife to 5 come nieuhoff's brazil. 805 come with your fleet hither, where you may careen your fhips, and provide yourfelves with frefh provifions, men, ammunition, and all other neceffaries, till fuch time we fliall mutually agree in what is further to be undertaken for the fervice of God and His Majefty. The enemy has hitherto but one fhip of ftrength at fea, the reft beinc^ of no confequence ; neither are they for engaging with you at this time, but endeavour to cut off your communication with the fea-coaft. My Lord, you have given fo many proofs of your courage before this time, that this retreat will not abate any thing from the fame of your victories : on the other hand, you have to confider, that you are anfwerable for fo many thoufand lives of thofe that are in your fleet ; wherefore we defire you once more to come hither with the fleet, and fuch officers as are under your command, where you will meet with a very kind and comfortable reception. But being fenfible that it would be a grofs error in us, to urge a matter fo evident it itfelf any further, to fo great a commander as you, ive live in hopes of your coming, where we intend, in the houfe of Nazareth, to receive the bleflfed facrament, which name we have given to the fort, having, among other things, found a mafs-book here, which is of no fmall fervice to us. God preferve Yoiu- Lordfliip. Martin Soares Moreno, and " Puntael, Sept. 2, 1645. Andrew Vidal de Negreiros.'* ITie contents of the fecond letter to the fame admiral are as follows : " Your Lordfliip being already acquainted with our being mafliers of the Puntael (cape), we hope you will take the firft opportunity of coming to us ; the enemies having two fquadrons of fliips at fea, with one fire-fliip, to force you from this coafl:, which has been difcovered to us by a letter writ at the Receif, and directed to the governor, and taken by us in a bark dcfigned for the relief of that place, of which we thought fit to give you immediate notice, that you might take your meafures according to your wonted prudence. Thefe Dutch gentlemen have, by their treacherous dealings, ob- liged us to have recourfc to open force, and we defire Your Lordlhip to repay them in their own coin, with fire and fword, as they do us. If you defign to come hither, it muft be done fpeedily, all delay being dangerous at this time. We have a true copy of this letter in our journal to ferve for our juftification hereafter. God pre- ferve Your Lordfhip. " Dated in the Puntael of the BleflTed Martin Scares Moreno, and " Sacrament, Sept. 6, 1645. Andrew Vidal de -Negreiros." An account of the furrender of the cape of St. Auflin, and of the further tran- factions betwixt us and the Portuguefe, was fent in a letter by Cafpar da Cofta d'Abreu, from the faid cape to his friend Domingos da Kofta, an inhabitant of the Bahia, which runs thus : ," I wifh this letter may find you in good health, as I who am your faithful com- rade defire ; I am in a tolerable good condidon in the Puntael of Nazareth, which after a fiege of twenty days was furrendered to us at an eafy rate, becaufe thofe who com- manded within the fort, had Portuguefe wives, and their eftates thereabouts. The captain of horfe was the moft forward of all in furrendering the place j they have ob- tained what conditions they demanded, and a gratuity of four thoufand ducats befides. We found in the fort three hundred Dutch, of their beft troops, and twelve brafs pieces of cannon, four of which were four and twenty-pounders, and provifions for three 8o6 nieuhoff's brazil. three months ; fo that if they had not come with us to a compofition, it would have coft us abundance of men, whereas now we have gained the ph^ce with the lofs of one fingle man, who was killed by a random cannon-fhot. We made ourfelves mailers of a bark, firing from the Puntael, before its furrender, m which was a gentleman with feveral hundred men that were going to the Receif. This gentleman and another of Serenham (being both magiftates in their refpeftive places) we delivered up to the inhabitants, who foon killed them, notwithftanding one was married with a Portuguefe woman ; for they having been heard to fay, that they hoped to wafh their hands in the blood of the Portuguefe, the women were fc fnuch exafperated againft them, that they foon difpatched them according to their defires. The prifoners are for the moft part detained at St. Anthony, in order to be fent to the Bahia ; but many among them have taken fervice with us. "We fuppofe the number of the dead and Dutch prifo- ners amount to near thirteen hundred : we have not feen the fquadron under Salvador Korrea de Saa ; we are afraid fome misfortune has befallen him ; fome of our fhips were cruifing hereabouts, but within thefe three or four days none of them have ap- peared on this coaft. The Dutch have a fleet of twelve Ihips at fea, it is well if they do not venture a brufh with us. The Receif with all its forts are inverted ; Lawrence Karneiro is at Porto Calvo ; the Jews report, that orders are come to take all the Dutch forces out of Rio Grande, Parayba, and St. Francis, in order to tranfport them to the Receif. There is no great harmony betwixt the Jews and Dutch, the firfl pretending that the others intend to fell the country. Four of their head ofBcers, which are our prifoners, are ordered to be fent to the Bahia, and among them their mafter of the artillery. The fame day that we were become mafters of the Puntael, a bark arrived there from the Receif with orders to keep it to the laft extremity ; we took the bark with good (lore of ammunition and provifion, worth in all about fifteen hundred ducats. c< " Sept. 5, 1645. Caspar da Costa d'Abreu." From this and the following letters, it is apparent that Major Hoogftraten had laid the foundation of his treacherous defign of betraying the cape of St. Auftin to the Portuguefe, long before ; to wit, ever fmce he with Mr. Balthafar Vander Voerde was fent to the governor of the Bahia, Antonio Telles de Sylva. Thus a certain ferjeant fold a redoubt near the city of Olinda to the enemy for three hundred gilders. At the beginning of the fiege of the cape of St. Auftin, Andrew Vidal de Negreiros fent two letters to Major Hoogftraten, Ley, and Heck, by one John Guomes de Mello, dated the 1 3th of Auguft ; in the firft of which the faid Vidal complains of the ill- treatment and murthers committed upon the Portuguefe by the Dutch ; in the fecond he requefts them to declare, purfuant to the promifes made by Hoogftraten in the Bahia, for the King of Portugal, and to deliver the fort into their hands. Two letters frem Vidal to Hoogjiraten, The firft was as follows : " I am come this morning to the village of St. Antonio de Cabo, in hopes of receiving news from you and Captain Ley. I give by thefe prefents, notice to you, that we are fent hither by order from the governor Antonio Telles de Sylva, with no other intention than to appeafe the troubles lately arifen in this country, purfuant to the requeft of the council, of which you are a fufficient witnefs. No fooner were I we nieuhoff's brazil. 807 we arrived at Tamandare, but we received many informations direftly contrary to what we expefted to meet with here ; viz. that in Rio Grande thirty feven inhabi- tants had been murihered, many virgins deflowered, and the image of the virgin Mary grofly mifufed by the Dutch ; things fo abominable in themfelves, that it is fcarce to be imagined fo brave a nation ftiould be guilty of fuch enormities. Whilft I am writing this letter, news is brought me, that the Dutch have caufed many of the inhabitants of Goyana to be murthered, though I can fcarce give credit to it : for fup- pofiag this to be true, we could not avoid giving afliffance to thefe miferable people, though they were the moft defpifeable ot all nations, confidering they crave our help, and are not only Chriftians, but alfo fubjefts of the King our mailer, whom God preferve. Whilft the council was in expedtation of the iflues of the intended accom- modation, they have furprized and killed many of the inhabitants, which obliges us to require you in the name of God, of His Majefty, His Highnefs, and the States- General, not to give any occafion for a rupture, but to maintain the late concluded peace to the utmofl of your power, as we are ready on our fide to concert all poffible meafures with the commander-in-chief of this place, which may tend to the tranquillity of both parties. The bearers hereof are Captain John Guomes de Mello, and Lieute- nant Francis Guomes, who we defire may be difpatched back with all poffible fpeed. God preferve you for many years. " Auguil 13, 1645. Andrew Vidal." The fecond letter was written thus : Thefecond letter. " Your promife made to us in the Bahia, and what has fince been told by Captain Ley to John Fernandes Vieira and Captain John Guomes de Mello, encourages us to proceed in our former defign, not queftioning but that both you and Captain Ley will not in the leaft recede from the engagement you have been pleafed to oblige us with, and to tie us to your fervice. We are come into this country at the head of three thoufand chofen men, backed by two fquadrons of men of war well equipped, one of which has not as yet appeared on this coaft, the other you have feen yourfelf pafs by the other day. I hope this may ferve as a means to fet the poor miferable inhabi- tants at liberty ; and as both they and we wifli for nothing more than to fee you em- brace our fide, that we not want an opportunity to give you more evident proofs of , our refpeft and affeftion towards you, fo we defire you not to entertain the leaft finifter fufpicion of us ; we being ready (for the performance of which we by thefe prefents give you our words) to accomplifti in every point, what has been promifed to you, by John Fernandes Vieira and John Guomes de Mello. And I for my part allure you, that I will not fail to perform and agree to whatever you fliall further demand upon this occafion. The inhabitants of this place fliall be provided with paflports, and proteded by us, in the fame manner as the commander of Serinham, Carpentier, and fome others were ; and we expeft the fame at your hand. And that you may be fure whom to treat with upon this account, we have fent to you John Guomes de Mello, who is in- trufted with the whole matter ; which if you refufe to do, we muft take fuch meafures as we fliall judge moft expedient for us. In the nieanwhile God preferve you for many years. Your affedionate friend and fervant, " St. Ant. de Cabo, Aug. 13, 1645. Andrew Vidal de Negreiros." Major 8o8 nieuhoff's brazil. Major Hoogftraten, Mr. Heck, and Ley, fent an anfwer to this letter immediately, containing in fubftance, that they were not in the lead concerned in the outrages committed by the Tapoyers againll the Portuguefe, and feemingly refufed to treat with De Melio. It runs thus : His anfwer to them. *' We have received your letter fent by John Gnomes de Mello, out of which we underftand, that you are come to St. Antonio. We are extremely well fatisfied, that the governor Antonio Telles de Sylva has undertaken to appeafe the tumults arifen in thefe parts, and do not queflion but that your prefence will contribute much towards the accomplifhment of it. The affronts and outrages you fpeak of by the Tapoyers and Dutch foldiers put upon the inhabitants, as they were committed forely againft our willj fo I can allure you, that nobody, not fo much as the leaft child, has been iuffered to be mifufed upon our accounts, fo that thefe complaints mufl not be made to us, but ought to be referred to the council. The treaty you propofe with Captain John Guomes de Mello, and Lieutenant Francis Guomes, is beyond our province and power, fo that we earneltly defire you not to ufe any further folicitations to us upon diat account. So we kifs your hands, recommending you to God's protection. We reft " Your fervants and good friends, Casper Vandeu Ley. D. Van Hoogstratex. John Heck. Major Hoogftraten took care to fend thefe two letters, together with their anfwer, to the council, with repeated affurances of their conftant fidelity ; whereupon the great council confirmed Hoogftraten in his government, and exhorted Ley and Heck to per- fevere in their brave refolution, which they would in due time take care to reward with better preferments. This difcovery of the enemy's letters being looked upon as an un- deniable proof of Mr. Hoogftraten's fmcere intentions, had fuch an influence upon the generality of the people, that there was fcarce any body but what thought himfelf fe- cure of his fidelity and duty. Neverthelefs, as thefe temptations could not but raife fome jealoufy in the minds of the council, they thought fit to fend Colonel Haus to the Receif, to order him to the Cape of St. Auftin. The council in the meanwhile being, by Vidal's letters to Hoogftraten, fufficiently convinced, that the intended recalling of the rebellious troops were nothing but amufc- ments, fent immediate orders to their admiral Lichthart, that, for the future, he ftiould treat all the Portuguefe (hips he could meet with as enemies. The 1 5th of Auguft, Colonel Haus being come to the Receif, propofed to the coun- cil, that he judged it abfolutely neceffary for the fervice of the ftate, that fince by the fuccours come from the Bahia to the afliflance of the rebels under Martin Scares Mo- reno and Andrew VIdal, they were grown very ftrong and numerous, the troops en- camped in the field fhould be drawn into the Receif, becaufe they being, befides the Brazilians, not above three hundred ftrong, they might eafily be cut off in a place where they could not be feconded in the Receif, where they were wanting for the de- fence of that place, which being the capital of the whole Dutch Brazil, would, in all likelihood, be attacked with the utmolt vigour by the enemy. Againll this opinion many reafons were alleged too. I. By nieuhoff's uraziu 809 I. By fo doing, they mufi: quit all the open country from whence they were now fupplied with cattle and meal, Avhich they flood highly in need of, till luch time that they could receive new fupplies from Holland, and that, in fuch a cafe, they mull expert the enemy immediately at their gates. II. That thereby the number of the enemy would be increafed ; the inhabitants of the country, being freed from the dread of our troops, would join with them againfl; us. III. That by fo doing, we mufl leave the Tapoyers, that had taken up arms at our requeft, and were to be joined by our troops near Machiape or St. Antonio, to the enemy's mercy. To this, it was anfwered, ifl. That as to the fupplies of cattle and meal from the country, they fhould be in a much better condition to be furniflied withal when their forces could be fent aboard into all circumjacent parts of the country, whereas now they were forced to remain in one certain place. Befides that, we being mailers at fea, might embark at any time a certain number of men, and land them where we found it moil convenient, which would oblige the enemy, inftead of befieging the Receif, to divide his forces, for the defence of the country. What related to the increafe of the enemy's forces, by the acceffion of the Portuguefe inhabitants of the country, was to be looked upon as of no great confequence againfl us ; it being more for our interefl to fee them appear as de- clared enemies than dilTembling friends ; it being generally known, that their inclina- tions were bent for their countrymen, and that, notwithllanding all their fpecious pre- tences, they miffed no opportunity of giving intelligence to the enemy of what paffed among us ; whereas, if they were once declared enemies of the flates, we fhould have a fair opportunity of feizing upon their cattle, provifions, and other moveables, for the ufe of the Receif; which being thus provided, would difcourage the enemy from at- tempting to reduce it by famine. What was alledged concerning the danger of the Tapoyers, was acknowledged to be of no fmall moment ; but, confidering they had received no news as yet of their mo- tion, it was not judged of fuch vaft confequence, as to be put in balance with the welfare of the whole Dutch Brazil, which depended in a great meafure on the fafety of thefe troops. After mature deliberation of the whole matter, it was refolved, on the 1 5th of Au- gufl, by the council, with the approbation of the members of the court of juflice, that, confidering the danger the troops were expofed to, and that on their fafety depended the prefervation of the Receif, they fliould with all pofTiblc fpeed march thither, and that only fifty men fhould be left in the houfe of De Wit, under Captain Wiltfchut, in order to command fome part of the circumjacent country, and to ferve as a retreat for our parties that fliould be fent abroad to fetch in cattle, and farinha or meal. Purfuant to this refolution. Colonel Haus went thither on horfeback the fame day, to pj^it in execution the fame evening, if poffible he could, or, at farthefl, the next morning. But it feems Colonel Haus was fo negleftful, as to delay the march of thefe troops not only that afternoon, but alfo the whole next following day ; and, inflead of retreating towards the Receif, tarried in the fame fugar-mill, without having the leafl intelligence of the enemy's approach; fo that on the 17th of Augufl, being furprifed by the troops of Andrew Vidal, much more numerous than his, before they could be- take themielves to their arms they were put to the rout. The council being advertifed, that Colonel Haus with his troops were attacked by the enemy in the fugar-mill of M. de Wit, they called the city militia to their arms ; Mr. Bullellraet and De Bas v.ent to the houfe of Bavifla ; from whence, as being nearer at hand, they might give the ne- ceffary orders, according as they fhould receive advice from Haus : and twelve fire-iojcks ».'0L. XIV. 5 L • were- 8 19 iCIEUHOFF 3 BRAZII,. Were pofled in this fioufe for the better fecurity of the bridge acrofs the river. Dieterick Hamel, and the counfellors of juftlce, took care to look after the Receif. Imme- diately after, word being brought to the council that Colonel Haus had been overthrown, and was retired to the houfe of De Wit belonging to the fugar-mill, it was confulted, whether by any means they might be able to relieve him ; and, though by reafon of the weaknefs of the garrifon, it was no eafy matter to do it, neverthelefs, it was re- folved, with one hundred volunteers of the inhabitants, and one hundred and fifty foldiers, to attempt his relief. But before this could be put in execution, a certain Brazilian that had been prefent at the whole adion, and having, by changing his clothes with a Portuguefe, found means to efcape the Receif, brought the unwelcome news, that Colonel Haus, with the forces under his command, had furrendered the houfe belonging to the fugar-mill, and themfelves, upon promife of quarters, at difcretion. It was generally believed, that this misfortune was chiefly occafioned .by Colonel Haus's own neglett, who did not, till it was too late, put the foldiers into a pofture of defence, which was afterwards confirmed by the depofition of William Jacobfon, late captain-lieutenant of Colonel Haus's ov.n company, made before the great council the 6th of July, 1646. It was not till the night before our defeat, that Colonel Haus received the firfl; in- telligences from a prifoner, a negro, that the enemy, with a ftrong body, were broken up from Moribeca. The next morning, one of our fafe-guards brought word to the colonel, that the enemy was pafling the river ; and foon after, the colonel's groom, who had been to water his mailer's horfe in the faid river, came in a full gallop, telling him hkewife, that the rebels were pafling the river, fo that we foon after heard them fire upon our advanced guard, who retired immediately to the main bodv. Colonel Haus did not call the foldiers to their arms, or caufed the alarm to be given, until the enemy came within fight of us, and charging our out-guard, when we firft began to (kirmifli with them : but they charging us with their more numerous forces in the front, whilft Kamaron with his troops endeavoured to cut off our retreat to the Rectit, which we were not able to prevent, by reafon of the fmallnefs of our number, Haus aiked Cap- tain Wiltfchut, Blaar and Lillry, " W^hat was befl to be done ?*' Wiltfchut anfwered, *' You never aflced our advice before, do what you think belt." Whereupon Haus ordered to retreat to the houfe of Mr. de Wit : Captain Blaar, who expefted no quar- ter, being on the other hand for fighting our way through to the Receif. The houfe was bravely defended for four hours, but at laft powder and ball beginning to fail, be- caufe half a barrel of gunpowder (which was all they had left) blew up by accident, they furrendered at difcretion to Andrew Vidal, under condition to have their lives faved, as well for themfelves as the Brazilians among them ; which agreement being figned by Vidal, and two or three more of the chief commanders of the Portuguefe, was delivered to Colonel Haus. Notwithftanding which, the Brazilians were cut to pieces by the inhabitants, with the confent of the Portuguefe commanders, as foon as we had quitted our poll in the houfe. The Brazilian women feeing their huibands murdered before their faces, dafhed mofl of their children's brains againft the walls, for fear they fliould fall alive into the hands of the Portuguefe. All the Dutch, about two hundred and fifty ftrong, among whom were Colonel Haus, Captain Blaar and Liftry, were made prifoners of war, and were for the firfl four or five days kept in the fugar-mill of Hacq, when John Fernandes Vieira, and many of the inhabitants folicited Andrew Vidal, to deliver the faid prifoners up into their hands, with an intention to kill them, but Vidal refufed to grant their requeif , and caufed them forthwith to be lent by 8 land nieuhoff's brazil. 8ir land to the Bahia : they were indifferently well treated in their journey thither ; but fuch as either by reafon of ficknefs, or any other accident, were left behind, fell into the inhabitants' hands, who cut them to pieces, and would have done the fame with all the reft, had it not been for their convoy. After their arrival in the Bahia, an account being taken of their names, they had certain quarters affigned them, and thirty-one pence halfpenny per week for their pay, and a meafure of meal for every ten days. They had liberty to walk up and down within the city where they pleafed, except Colonel liaus, Captain Wiltfchut, and Liflry, who were confined to their lodgings, and durft not, without fpecial leave, talk with anybody. Colonel Haus was at iafl fent to Portugal, and Wiltfchut and Liftry, in June 1647, P"'^ °" board a Ihip with two bundled and thirty Dutch prifoners ; about fixty of our men took fervice among them there, but they refufed the natives of Holland. The enemies being greatly encouraged by thefe fuccefies, and their flrength in- creafing daily by the great concourfe of the Portuguefe inhabitants, who in the captain- Ihips of Parayba and Goyana, which hitherto had remained in quiet, and engaged themfelves to the government by a new oath of allegiance, now alfo took up arms againft us ; fo that it was thought convenient to recall our garriions out of thofe parts. But to return to the cape of St. Auftin, after the furrender of which the garrifon was carried to St. Antonio, where they were forced to deliver up their arms. Among the reft of our prifoners there was Ifaac Zweers, afterwards vice-admiral of Holland and Weftfrifeland, Abraham Van Millingen, and John Broekhufen, both ftill living in Holland. Major Hoogftraten addrefl'ed himfelf to them, endeavouring to bring them over to the Portuguefe fide, by the allurements of captain, lieutenant, and enfign's places, telling them, that it would now be in his power to promote them to much higher employments ; but when he faw them refufe his offer, he fwore they ftiould repent it. At the fame time he preferred three Dutch men, to wit, Winfel Smith, formerly his lieutenant ; Alexander Boucholt, and Claes Claefen, a native of Amfter- dam, to captains places ; the laft of thefe three being an intimate friend of Zweers and Broekhufen, told them, and confirmed it by many oaths, that he had taken fervice among them for no other end, than to get an opportunity of returning to us. They had alfo liberty given them to walk abroad, but not without a guard to keep a watch- ful eye over all their adions. Not long after, the Portuguefe provider, Mor, fent for John Broekhufen, and after the firft compliments were palled, told him, that if he would ferve the King of Por- tugal in the quality of commiffary-general, he fliould go along with him to the camp, where he ftiould receive one hundred gilders per month, and be welcome to his table befides ; and that if he refufed his offer, and ftayed behind, he would be in danger of being murdered by the inhabitants. He replied, that being engaged by his oath t» the company he could not break it, though with the hazard of his life. " And," faid the provider, " will you choofe rather to ferve a company of mob than a King ? We are juft now upon the point of executing a defign which is infallible, and then you will begin to fee that the King's caufe is the jufteit, and will be crowned with fuccefs for ever." Then he gave him a cup with brandy, of which after Mr. Broekhufen had -taken a good draught, he took his leave and returned to his comrades, unto whom he gave an account of what had paffed betwixt them. Thefe had in the meanwhile been informed by fome Portuguefe, that this defiga was upon the ifle Itamarika, and being certain that the council did not forefee this danger, they were contriving all poffible means to give them notice of it, but could not 5 L 2 pitch 8 12 nikuhoff's brazil. pitch upon any perfon fitly qualified for this undertaking. At lafl:, Ifaac Zweers, by vafl promifes of reward, prevailed fo far upon a Dutch trumpeter, called Martin Stomp,, that he undertook to carry this piece of news in perfon to the council, and at the fame time to requefl the releafing of the Dutch prifoners ftill remaining at St. An- tonio. Every thing being agreed upon betwixt them, the trumpeter took his leave of Mr. Zweers, and fet out on his journey to the Receif about midnight, leaving his wife and children behind him. Mr. Zweers and Mr. Broekhufen appeared very well fatisfied, but neverthelefs were in their hearts not a little concerned for the iffue of this enterprife. They would often call upon the trumpeter's wife to enjoin her filence, and ordered her, that if any enquired after him, to tell them he was run away from her, in order to take fervice in the camp in the Vergea. Some days after they met with one Peter Ritfau, formerly baker to the garrifon of the cape of St. Auflin ; Broekhufen having a mind to feel his pulfe, and finding him not averfe to fuch a talk, he at lafl with fair words prevailed upon him to undertake the fame journey the trumpeter had done before ; that in cafe he flrould mifcarry, which they much feared he might, the council might neverthelefs be advertifed of the enemy's intended expedition againft Itamarika. The baker having defired a certificate from them, teftifying, that he never had taken fervice among the Portuguefe, prepared himfelf for his journey, which he intended to begin with the firft dark night. The fame night they were forewarned of a defign againft their lives, by a certain Italian called Jacomo da Perugalho, fo that Zweers and Broekhufen gueffing, not with- out reafon, that fome of the Portuguefe had got fcent of their fending away the trumpeter and baker, thought it not advifeable to flay longer in this place, but to afk leave from Colonel Pedro Marinho Falkaho, to go to the Algodais, where they could not want conveniency to go along with the reft of the prifoners, that were intended to be fent to the Bahia, which was readily granted. In the meanwhile the baker having taken the firft opportunity to fet out on his journey, was met by two Portuguefe in the fugar-mill Trapicha, who having found the before-mentioned certificate about him, carried him prifoner to St. Antonio de Cabo, where being put to the torture, it made fuch a noife among the inhabitants, that they all rofe up in arms, protefting, they would not be fatisfied till they had fetched Zweers and Broekhufen from the Algodais, and cut them to pieces ; for which pur- pofe they alfo obtained feven foldiers from Pedro Marinho, and had certainly put it in execution if Captain Ley had not oppofed it ; for, as good luck would have it, they- happened at that time to be in his fugar-mill, and the baker had ftood it out bravely, without difcovering the matter. The next morning Captain Ley gave them a vifit, telling them what had happened ; and fays he to Broekhufen, " What is your mean- ing by this ?" But he having no great confidence in Ley, denied every thing to the utmoft. But the 2d of Oftober, the whole defign was likely to have been difcovered by the imprudence of the before-mentioned trumpeter's wife, who being got drunk, told fome of her acquaintance, that her huftiand was gone to the Receif. She was carried a prifoner to the cape of St. Auftin, where fhe was miferably tortured, but being a refolute woman, would not confefs any thing : it was however Major Hoogftraten's advice, that the Portuguefe ought not to keep the Dutch any longer in Pernambuko, but that all fuch as refufed to take fervice among them, ought to be fent to the Bahia. Accordingly, all the Dutch prifoners then about the cape and St. Anthony, were fent to the Algodais, where every one was afked by Colonel Peter Marinho, whether they 7 would nieuiioff's brazil. 813 tvould fake fervice under the King of Portugal, and that fuch as would not, fhould be fent forthwith by land to the Bahia, a tedious journey ; befides, that they ran the hazard of being murdered by the way. Many took fervice for fear, but Zweers and Broekhufen being afked again, whether they were not willing to ferve the King, they anfwered, they would rather die than bear arms againft their own nation. The 5th of October, all the prifoners under a convoy, both of foldiers and boors, were carried from the Algodais to Pojuka. But fcarce were they come thither, when Zweers was ordered to be fent back to the cape of St. Auftin, where he was put to the rack, to extort from him a confeffion concerning the trumpeter's journey to the Receif, who, as they fuppofed, had difcovered their dcfign upon Itamarika ; but not being able to bring him to make the leafh difcovery, they fent him, after an imprifon- ment of five weeks, to the Bahia. In the meanwhile Mr. Broekhufen, with the reft of the Dutch prifoners, had been forced to travel day and night till the 28th of November 1645, when they came to a caftle called Tapuao, on the fea-fhore of the Bahia, about half a league from the city of St. Salvador, after a dangerous journey : they were carried in ten boats to the city, on that fide where it is beft fortified, the Portuguefe being not willing to let them have a fight of the fortifications on the land fide. Mr. Broekhufen was by order from the governor Antonio Telles de Sylva, made a prifoner in a citizen's houfe, and the foldiers difpofed into quarters. The next day they heard the drums beat up for volun- teers, every one being invited to ferve the King of Portugal, of what nation foever, ex- cept the Dutch. The next following year, on the i8th of January 1646, Zweers and Broekhufen intercepted a letter written by Hoogftraten to Hondius, concerning feveral tranfactions to be communicated to the governors, of which Captain Ley having got fcent, gave- immediate notice thereof to the governor, the ift of February, who threatening them with no lefs than the gallows, fent them to a loathfome prifon ; with ftridt orders that nobody fliould be permitted to fpeak with them, nor that pen, ink, or paper, fhould be allowed them ; nay, whilft the clerk was fetting down their names, a captain came and told them from the governor, that they were the traitors who kept correfpondence with the Dutch in the Receif; and ordered that a centinel fliould be fet at the prifon door, to keep the inhabitants from laying violent hands upon them; for as- they were carrying to prifon, they made a horrible noife, crying, " To the gallows with thefe impoftors and traitors." They remained five whole days in this prifon with- out any victuals or drink, till being almoft fpent with hunger and thirft, they got leave to write to the governor, reprefenting to him their deplorable condition ; who gave immediate orders that victuals fhould be given them for the future : the Portuguefe keeper being afraid, that if they fliould give them plenty of victuals at firft, it might, turn to the danger of their lives, was fo cautious, as to fend them no more than each a piece of bread well dipt in wine at firft, and after fome hours, fuch another, but fomething bigger, till by degrees their ftomachs were reftored to their former digeftive faculty. The iaft day of February the governor gave public audience (which is done three times every year) for the releafing of thofe that are prifoners on the King's account. Upon this occafion, a free accefs was likewife granted to our people to the governor. They paffed through the anti-chamber, lined on both fides with his guards, into the room of audience, adorned with damalk hangings of divers colours : here they found the governor fitting in an elbow-chair, on the right fide of which ftood the royal throne, raifed four fleps hieher from the ground than the governor's feat, which was furround- ed 8 14 kieuuoff's brazil. ed upon the floor with very fine tapeftry. Jufl: behind him flood his fecretary, and fome halbardiers ; on both fides fat feveral counfellors and la\v)'ers, their Iieads covered, and l^ehind them the officers of the army, all uncovered. The governor, as foon as he faw our prifoners, gave them a fign to come nearer, which they having done ac- cordingly, Mr. Broekhufen, upon his knees, fpoke to him thus: — " We fuppofe Your Lordfliip not to be ignorant, that now^ for a whole month we have been detained in a miferable prifon, without being confcious of any crime committed againfl: you, unlefs it were, that we have detained the letter Your Lordfliip knows of j if, in this, we have committed a fault, we beg Your Lordfhip's pardon." " x\nd," replied the governor, " fuppofrng you had done fuch a thing in Holland t'* Upon which, Broekhufen anfwered, " That His Lordfliip would be pleafed to remem- ber, that it was no nwre than a pi-ivate letter, and not directed to His Lordfliip." 'J"he governor, after having paufed for a httle while, gave immediate order for their dif- charge ; from that time they had liberty given them of walking abroad, but were fain to carry themfelves very fwimmingly, for fear of the inhabitants, who kept a watchful eye over them. The 7th of May, Ifaac Zweers and John Broekhufen were carried on board a yacht called the St. Francis, in order to be conveyed to the Ifle of Terceira ; and as they were the firfl: Dutch prifoners that were fent to that ifland, every one looked upon it no otherwife than a pretence to throw them over-board after they were come to fea. Here they met with worfe treatment than before, being forced to fl;and to the pump during the whole voyage, and yet were ready to be fliarved, notwithftanding the fea- men catched more fifli than they could confume. At lafl;, the 28th, being arrived in the road near Terceira, they faw within an hour after, a Dutch fiiip coming to anchor near them ; they called to the fliip till the mafl:er fent fome of his people aboard them, unto whom they made their complaints ; and, underfl;anding that the mailer was a na- tive of Niewendam, called Martin Peter Honing, they began to be a little cheerful, though the Portuguefe would not allow them to go aboard the Dutch fliip. But the 29th, being left alone with the fteer-man, and only one boy in the vefTel, they found means to go in fpite of their keepers aboard Martin Peter Honing, who promifed to fee them delivered. The fame afternoon. Moor, the governor of this and the adjacent iflands, rellding in Terceira, fent for Zweers and Broekhufen, and told them that he had received a letter from the governor Antonio Telles de Sylva, in which he had de- fired him to detain them prifoners in the caftle for a twelve-month ; but that he did not think himielf obliged to follow his directions, he having no other dependance but on the King, who being not concerned in this war, his orders were, to fend all the pri- foners brought thither to Portugal ; that they might rely upon it ; and, for their pre- feni fufl:enance, till a fliip fliould be ready to go, ordered them nine rix-dollars. The 1 3th of June, they met with a mafl:er of a French veiTel, who ofl'ered to carry them, without any reward, to Portugal, which they willingly accepted of : here they met with many of their fellow-prifoners, who had imagined no otherwife, but that the Portuguefe had thrown them over-board. They continued here till the icth of Sep- tember, when Zweers and Broekhufen embarked themfelves at Lifbon aboard a man of war, called the Prince Henry, and at lafl, the 4th of December, after a thoufand dan- gers and miferics, which they had fuflained fince their departure from the Dutch Brazil, arrived fafely in the Maefc. But we mull return towards the Receif. The unexpefted defeat of Colonel Haus put all the inhabitants of the Receif under great confternation ; but the council left no flone unturned to put the place, with all the adjacent forts, in a condition to make a vigorous NiEUHOFP's BRAZIL. 815 a vigorous defence, in cafe it fliould be attacked by the enemy ; and, that every thing might be perfornied with the befl: order that could be, Peter Bas was conftituted com- mander-in-chief in the Receif. Admiral Lichthart was to take care of the batteries and artillery thereunto belonging ; Henry Moucheron was made commander in Mau- rice's Town ; all their thoughts being now bent upon the defence of thefe places, which before they judged out of danger. The ftables and out-houfes for the ufe of the negroes, as likewife the walks and gardens belonging to Count Maurice's houfe, being no fmall impediment to the fort Erneftus, it being to be feared that, under favour of thefe houfes and trees, the enemy might unexpeftedly furprife the fort and Maurice's Town ; and the inhabitants earneftly requelted the pulling down of thofe ftables, out-houfes, and trees, and what elfe might prove dangerous to the place ; orders were given to Mr. Valbergen and Major Bayert, commanding in the fort Erneftus, to fee the fame put in execution, with as little da- mage to the houfe as poffibly could be. The houfes near the fort Bruin were likewife ordered to be pulled down, and the horn-work belonging to it, to be levelled at the requeft of the ciiizens. Many negroes were alfo employed under the condudl of Ma- jor Beck and the captain of the city-militia, to break down all the houfes in Maurice's Town, which lay too near the retrenchments. All Portuguefe prifoners were ordered to be diftributed in the fliips ; and feveral volunteers, who had committed many out- rages in the country, and were detained in cuftody, were taken into fervice for three months. A rumour being fpread abroad that eighteen of the enemy were come into the Affagados, a company of citizens were got in readinefs to affifl them, but it proved not true. The fame day, the fhip called the Orange-tree, arrived near the Receif, being come out of the Maefe the 21ft of May with thirty-five foldiers for recruits. The watches were fo difpofed, that in Maurice's Town Mr. de Wit and Raetfield (befides the or- dinary officers), and in the Receif, Mr. Aldrich and Valbergen, fhould go the rounds. Balthafar Dortmund, governor of Itamarika, fent advice to the council the 17th of Auguft, that Kavalkanti v/as with fome troops come to Iguaraku, and had fummoned the Brazilians to join with him in four days, under forfeiture of their lives. The 19th, the citizens prefented a petition, fhewing the neceflity of having the houfe of Count Maurice pulled down, as hindering the profpefl; from the fort Erneftus, and, if once poffefled by the enemy, they might from thence annoy both the fort and the Receif itfelf with their cannon. But the council having advifed with Mr. Walbeck, Admiral Tichthart, Aldrich, De Wit, Raetfield, Moucheron, and Valbergen, thought fit not to agree to it for that time, being in hopes that it might be made ufeful for their defence. Mr. de Wit and Hamel were commanded to go from hence to each houfe in Maurice's Town, and to take an exaft account of what negroes were able to bear arms, and to furnifh them with mufkets and pikes ; the fame charge was given to Admiral Lichthart and Captain Bartholomew Van Collen, for the Receif. All the fick that were in a ftate of reconvalefcency in the caftle were likewife ordered to be armed for its defence. At the fame time, an anfwer was fent to Mr. Dortmund, with orders to draw as many Brazilians as poflibly he could into the ille of Itamarika, and to provide himfelf with as much cattle and meal (farinha) as he was able to get out of the adjacent places ; but that if he found himfelf not in a condition to maintain the whole ifland, or the city of Schoppe, he fhould retire into the fort Orange, where he might be fupplied by fea, and, confequently, make a vigorous defence. Mr. Carpentier was likewife forwarned to 8i6 nieuhoff's brazil. to be upon his guard, and to retire in time into the Ifle of Itamarika, with his foldiers and Brazilians, if he found the inhabitants ready to take up arms againfl: him. The 1 9th, at night, a party went abroad to get inteUigence, but met with no enemy. Some negroes were alfo fent towards the enemy's quarters to know their ftrength. The fame evening the council received a letter by Lieutenant Francis Meades from Andrew Vidal, in which he profeffed his readinefs flill to maintain the peace, complaining, at the fame time, of outrages committed by our foldiers, as may be feen out of the fol- lowing letter : — A Letter from Vidal to the Council. " We have fent you advice before by Lieutenant IVIanuel Antonio, of our arrival in this captainfhip, by ordere from the governor Antonio Telles de Sylva, and at your own requeft, in order to reftore tranquillity here by the mofl effeftual means we could devife. We alfo did reprefent to Your Lordfhips the many innovations and unaccount- able proceedings which had reached our ears, by the lamentable cries of feveral noble ravifhed virgins, and the doleful complaints of the inhabitants of Rio Grande, where forty perfons of note, together with a prieft, and the other day two more in the Salinas, were murdered in cool blood. I can fcarce mention without horror (and the refpecl every one ought to have to facred places forbids me to particularize) the outrages com- mitted againfl the images of faints, and efpecially that of the mother of God, and facri- leges committed by your foldiers : all which confiderations, together with that we found you in a warlike condition, with your troops in the field, natural right of felf-defence eftabliflied by the conflant cuftom of war did teach us, not to leave an armed power behind our backs, which upon occafion might have proved fatal to us before we could come to a refolution in conjunftion with Your Lordfliips, what meafures were beft to be taken for the re-eftablifhrnent of that tranquillity, which was the only aim of our coming into thefe parts ; according to which we have regulated ourfelves in our march towards the Receif, till we come to the town of St. Antonio de Cabo ; where, having caufed John Fernandes Vieira to be taken into cuftody, under a guard of twelve fol- diers, we were furprifed at the vafl: numbers of inhabitants, children, women, and re- ligious men, who, to fhelter themfelves from the outrages and robberies committed againfl them by Captain Blaar in the Vcrgea, came to feek for fhelter among us. They gave us an account how that the faid captain, not fatisfied withj having plundered their houfes, had carried away three of the nobleft ladies of the country, after they had been grievoufly difgraced before ; the inhabitants, being exafperated by thefe violences, did, againfl bur vill, leave our camp fo fuddenly, that whatever halle we made to march after them, we could not overtake them before they were engaged with fome of your troops, in the fugar-mill of Ifabel Gonfalves, which they intended to have fet on fire, had it not been for our men, who were forced to interpofe betwixt them and your fol- diers, to their no fmall danger and our lofs, as being expofed to the volleys of your fmall fliot, which confiftcd for the mofl part of bullets cut in pieces and made four fquare. As the hoflilities committed daily againfl our troops aftbrd frefli occafion of revolt among the inhabitants, fo we cannot but lay before Your Lordfhips the late pro- clamation and ratification of peace betwixt us, protefling now and for ever, in the name of God, John IV. our King, as alio in the name of the States-General, and all our allies, that Your Lordfhips will not let things come to a rupture, and not give us new caufe of afting offenfively, or to declare war againfl you. We cannot longer diffemble .jjur opinion, that the reiterated complaints of the inhabitants may, at leafl in fome mea- fure. NIEUHOFf's BIl.\ZIL. 817 fure, ferve for an excufe, if not a juftification, of the proceedings of John Fernandes Vieira, concerning whom we are fufficiently fatisfied that his firfl intentions were only to afford protection to fome innocent perfons threatened with deftrudtion ; which though it was in his power to do, yet did he retire from place to place with his forces, in hopes of avoiding any engagement, till forced thereunto by neceffity, he was conflrained to repel force by force. We beg of Your Lordfhips to take this letter into ferious confi- deration, being of fo much confequence to our both fides fafeties ; for it feems as if Heaven itfelf were offended at our proceedings. God preferve Your Lordfaips. " From De Ingenio of St. John Bap till " de Venies, Aug. 19, 1645. Andrew Vidal de Negreiros." An anfwer from the council was fent the next following day by the fame lieutenant : The CouncWs Aiifwer. " Out of our anfwer to your letter, dated at Serinham, the 8th of Augufl:, you may fufficiently fee that the proteftations made, both by the governor, Antonio Telies de Sylva, and by yourfelf, concerning the maintaining of the peace betwixt His Majeily of Portugal and the ftates-general of the United Provinces, were never looked upon by us as fmcere, or to be relied upon, fince your aftions did in no wife agree with your words. The treacherous propofals made to one of our deputies, to betray one of our beft ftrong holds into your hands ; the landing of fo formidable a force in our territories without any knowledge, under pretence of a mifinterpreted fenfe of our letter to His Excellency ; the coming with a ffirong fleet into our road ; the taking of the fort of Serinham ; the flaughter of fo many Brazilians, our fubjefts, in cool blood ; the fummons fent to the Cape of St. Auflin for a furrender ; nay, the at- tacking and furprifing of our troops, who were forced to keep in the field, for the bridling of our rebellious inhabitants ; all thefe, we fay, cannot by any unbiafled perfons be looked upon otherwiie than manifeft infradions of the laid treaty, and open holliiiries. We on our fide can, without the leail contradiftion to truth, pofitively de- <;lare, that our armament was not in the leafl intended againil His Majefty of Portugal, but againft the rebels and their adherents ; which we were compelled to, when we faw many armed troops to penetrate into our territories crofs the river St.Francifco. The fur- prifing of fom.e of our barks in the Salgados ; the taking of the houfe iWarecape, and making our fafeguards prifoners there, as well as at Cambao, and feveral other places ; the gallows that were erected on purpofe to terrify our inhabitants into a compliance with the revolted party ; the killing of three of the faid inhabitants of Pojuka in cool blood, and the furprifing of feveral of our foldiers and Brazilians fent to St. Lawrence to fetch farmha ; the plundering of the houfes and fhops of feveral tradefmen in the country, with many fuch-like violences committed by the revolted party ; and what is the worft, before ever w"e appeared in arms, but endeavoured, by proclamations of par- don and maintaining them in their poflefljons, to divert the danger ; all thefe adions, we fay, will not admit of any other interpretation but of open hoftilities. " How can it be fuppofed that in the ftation we are, we could, after all thofe provoca- tions and flights of our kind offers, defift any longer from drawing the fword ? What- ever, in the mean-time, has been tranfaCted contrary to the cuftom of war, has been done without our knowledge and intention ; being occafioned by tfie treacherous dealings of the rebels, and confequently to be looked upon as deferved puniffiments, rather than the confequences of a juft war; befides, that neither His Excellency Antonio Teiles de Sylva, neither you nor any body elfe, has any legal power to call us to an account con- voL. >:iv. 5 M cernjng 8i8 nieuhoff's brazil. cerning the government or punifhment of the fubjefts of the States-General, no more than the King of Portugal is anfwerable to us for what is tranfacted upon that account in his kingdom or other dominions. " Not with (landing which, we would have you not in the leafh lay the before-mentioned crimes and violences at our door ; we are fo far from having encouraged or commanded the Tapoyers to kill the Portuguefe inhabitants in Kunhao, that for thefe feveral years laft part we have endeavoured to prevent it ; for having, by the ill treatment they had received from the Portuguefe, been exafperated. againft them, they were for killing moft of the inhabitants of that captainfliip, and had adlually put it in execution, had we not interpofed our authority, and ordered our garrifons to take them into their particular proteftion. What you fay of ravifhing of women, is not only beyond our knowledge, but even beyond whatever we heard of before, having taken all imaginable care to prevent fuch violences by our proclamation, publilhed for that purpofe. It is known to all the world that we afforded our peculiar protection to the women of De Ingenio, of St. Ar- nout d'Orlanda, and what concerns the taking of the ladies by Captain John Blaar, was, as we are informed, done with no other intention, than to exchange them for his wife, or at lead to keep them as hoftages for her, he having received intelligence that fhe was very ill treated by you at Serinham. The rebels themfelves made the firfl flep towards thofe robberies and rapines that have been committed by our foldiers fince, which, how- ever, cannot come into balance with thofe cheats, frauds, and rapines, wherewith thofe rebels have defrauded and robbed their creditors of their debts and goods ; notwith- ftanding which, we have, by granting fafeguards and otherwife, done all what in us lay to prevent the fame. " The late murder upon the perfon of the Salinhas was committed the 17th of Auguft, without our knowledge, to our great diffatisfaftion, by the flying Brazilians, who, being enraged at the killing of their men, women, and children at Serinhamy without any diftinction of age or fex, took this opportunity of revenging themfelves. You may eafily guefs that the papers difperfed by Antonio Kavalcantl at Iguaracu have alfo contributed not a little to this enterprife. " Of the bullets mentioned by you to have been ufed in the laft encounter, we have more reafon to complain than you, it being our conftant order not to recede from what is the cuftora of war in thefe cafes. " The courtefy fhewed in faving and receiving our foldiers we are ready to acknow- ledge, and to return upon the like occafion, defiring you would fend us back your refo- lution upon this point by the fame drummer. " It being evident from what has been alledged, that all the paft misfortunes ought to be imputed to the rebels, unto whom we endeavoured by all requifite means to re- ftore tranquillity and peace ; but they, perfifting in their rebellious defigns, deferve rather condign punifliment than the leaft excufe at your hands. For which reafon it is that we proted before God and the whole world, againft the proceedings of His Ex- cellency Antonio Telles de Sylva, and what elfe has been committed by yourfelf con- trary to the treaty concluded betwixt His M?jelly of Portugal and the ftates-general of the United Provinces ; not queftioning but that upon the receipt of thefe prefents, you will retire with your forces to the Bahia, and thereby put an end to the further violation of the faid treaty. Thug, expecting your anfwer, we reft, " Receif, Aug. 20, 1645. Sir, yours, &c." The fame night word being brought that fome of the enemy's troops were advanced to Olinda, notice was given to all the circumjacent forts to prepare for a vigorous de- 1 1 fence, NrEUHOFF*S BRAZIL. 819 fence, and two batteries ordered to be raifed on the back-fide of the dwelling-place of the negroes, from whence they might command the avenues to the Receif along the ' river fide. Several volunteers lately come from the flat country, were incorporated into one company, under the command of Secretary Hamel, as captain, and Jeronymo Holman their lieutenant : two advanced guards were placed, one betwixt the fort Bruin and the triangular fort ; the fecond betwixt the laft and Count Maurice's plantation : part of the bridge of Boavifta was broken down to hinder the enemy's paflage that way ; and confidering the importance of the triangular fort, a detachment of twenty- fix foldiers, out of feveral companies, was ordered to reinforce the garrifon there. The fame care was taken for the fecurity of Maurice's Town, Antonio Vaez, the fort Erneftus, the quiquangular fort, and all the reft. Major Bayert was ordered to have the remaining walls of Count Maurice's ftables pulled down, becaufe they hindered the profpeft from the fort Erneftus ; and Henry Vermeulen was commanded to employ thirty negroes in clearing the plantation of Count Maurice and the ditches from all rubbifti ; and the before-mentioned Bayert ordered to remove the palifadoes from the faid gardens, and to put them round his fort. The engineer Pifteor had ordei-s given him to fet a row of palifadoes on that fide of the fort of Erneftus, where it fronts the before-mentioned gardens, and to extend them five rods into the river. And this fort being not fufRciently ftored with heavy cannon, commiflTary Sticht was to carry thither two great pieces, then planted at the bridge-foot, and inftead of them to place there two culverins ; likewife, the entrance of the channel of Maurice's Town was flopped by a double row of palifadoes. The members of the council, in conjunftion with thofe of the court of juftice, took another view of the fuburbs of Maurice's Town, to confult whether it were beft to maintain or to defert that poft, but the refolution thereof was deferred till the next day. Two great cannon were planted in the quinquangular fort, to command the river fide ; and in confideration that the horn-works belonging to that fort required a confiderable number of men for their defence, the governor of the fort was ordered to have the fame levelled by his Brazilians and foldiers, and one hundred negroes ; and the woods betwixt the faid fort and the Affagados, were ordered to be cut down by the Brazilians belonging to the fort, when it was alfo refolved to draw the fortifications of Maurice's Town into a narrower compafs, and to repair the walls round the Receif; fo that by the indefatigable care of the council, all the fortifications, both of the Receif and the other adjacent places, were put into fuch a good pofture of defence, that the enemy, though very ftrong, di?rft not attempt any thing thereabouts for that time. Mr. Dort- mund had drawn near fourteen hundred perfons into Itamarica, feven hundred of which being women and children, he defired fome fupplies of provifions, but for the reft, had put the ifland in a good pofture. Mr. Linge, by his letter, dated in Parayba, the 2 2d of Auguft, fent advice to the council, that after notice given him of the defeat of Colonel Haus, he had judged it moft convenient to remove the garrifon and inhabitants of Fredericia into the forts ; that however the Portuguefe were pretty quiet as yet, notwithftanding his whole force confifted not in above four hundred foldiers, one hundred inhabitants, and fifty Bra- zilians, among whom were a good number of fick and maimed men j and that the Tapoyers had flain about twelve or fourteen labouring countrymen. Major Hoogftraten, Ley, and Heck, had not long before given notice to the council, that they had burnt all the houfes, but efpecially the magazine and church without the fort, for its better defence, and that the enemy haft pofted themfelves on the hill of the cape, and on the fouthern ifland. 5 M 2 On" 820 ' xieuhoff's brazil. On the 25th of Augufl, upon another review of the fortifications of Maurice's Town,. the fame were ordered to be brought forthwith to perfection. The fame day the council received letters from Mr. Linge, by the way of Itamarica, dated the 18th and 19th of Augult, in Parayba, that William Bareiits had fent him advice from Kunhao the 14th of Auguft, that he and Rudolph Bawn had a troop of Tapoyers ready for our fervice, every thing being very quiet thereabouts ; but that the faid Tapoyers had carried away all the cattle belonging to Peter Farcharfon, which had occafioned no fmall fcarcity of frefh flefh thereabouts. It was alfo judged abfolutely neceflary by the council, to take into their ferious con- fideration the prefent condition of the forts in Rio St. Francifco and Seregippo del Rey, which being provided but with {lender garrifons, and all communication cut off betwixt them and the Receif, and in great danger of being loft ; it was judged abfolutely neceffary, after the defeat of Colonel Haus, to endeavour the prefervation of them, an^i confequently of the whole Dutch Brazil, by removing them from thence to the Receif. To accomplifh this with all imaginable fecurity, Mr. Walbeck was deputed by the great council to the council of war, to know their opinion, by what means thefe gar- rifons, as well as that of Porto Calvo, might be with fafety brought to the Receif, or whether, confidering that they would be forced to leave their cannon behind them, they fhould be ordered to defend themfelves to the laft extremity, in hopes of receiving fpeedy fuccours from Holland for their relief. The council of war having well weighed the whole matter, unanimoufly agreed upon the following refolution : ■ The Refolution of the Council of War. " That it was their opinion, confidering the capital city was in danger, for want of a fufficient garrifon, the garrifons of the before-mentioned forts, whicl^ in all proba- bility could not make any long refiftance, ought to be taken from thence, with as much ammunition and cannon as could be done, and carried to the Receif. But in regard that the fort of Porto Calvo lay pretty deep into the country, where the river was very narrow and fhallow, the garrifons of Rio St. Francifco and Seregippo del Rey were to pafs that way, in order to join them, and that they fliould bury or break their cannon. " By order from the council of war, Auguft 24, 1645. " (Signed) ■ Koraelis Bayer, Albertls OoSTKiniAX,, L. Van Harkejiax, John Denning, Saiml'el Lambautz, Henry Advocaet, Fkedeuick Pistook, Captain Haelmejster,, Rene de Mouchy." Accordingly two barks, with the fhip Zealandia, were ordered for the execution of this enterprifc, to Rio St. Francifco. The laft day of Auguft, one of the captains of thefe two barks returned, and gave an accoCint that he, being advanced into the river of Rio St. Francifco, witliin a league of NIEUHOFf's hRAZlh. - 82 1 of the faid fort, he received fo warm A falute of fmall fhot from a Portuguefe veflel full of fire-locks, that he was forced to return, without being able to penetrate any further up the river ; that the other bark being difcouraged thereat, durft not venture to go to Seregippo, but that they thought fit to retreat back with the fhip Zealandia ; he further added, that it would be very difficult to put this defign in execution, unlefs they were provided with fome galiots and yachts well armed. Purfuant to this advice, the council ordered the yacht called the Sprew, with three other barks, thither, to join with the fliip Zealandia, for the more effettual execution of this defign. They fet fail from the Receif the 2d of September, Captain William Lambartz com- modore. He returned with the faid yacht and the Zealandia, the ift of October, to the Receif, where he gave the following account of his expedition to the council : We came, the zzd of September, within a half league of the fort of St. Maurice, where we met with a bark, which, at the difcharge of one of our cannon, failed away before us up the river. As we were in purfuit of her, we efpied another fmall veffel, in company of the bark belonging to John Hoek, both full of foldiers : we faw the firfl of thefe two run afliore, and the foldiers landing, who ikirmifhed with an oppofite party for the defence of the veffel : our yacht, under favour of^ our cannon, boarded the faid veffel, with an intention to fet it on fire ; but finding it loaden with the baggage of our foldiers, fell to plundering firll ; and foon after efpied a boat, with a white flag, making all the fail they could towards them : Major Pappenheim, late commander of the fort of Rio St. Franciico, and Mr. Hoek, were in this boat, being fent by the enemy to let us know, that if we fet fire to the veffel, he would cut all the prifoners, with their wives and children, to pieces, fo that we defifted from it. They gave us an account, that tlie faid fort had been forced to furrender three days before, for want of wood and provifions, after a fiege of twenty-fix days : that the Portuguefe, having taken a ferjeant, with four foldiers of the garrifon of Seregippo, had killed the foldiers, and fent the ferjeant back with a convoy of two hundred men, to fetch the garrifon of Seregippo, which had not above four days provifion left, from thence. That about eight days before the furrender of the fort, Colonel Haus, Captain Liftry, and Captain Wiltfchut, paffed by that way, in their journey to the Bahia, whither they, purfuant to their capitulation, were to be carried, with the reft of the prifoners, and from thence to Portugal, and fo further to Holland, without any other lofs except their baggage, being for the reft indifferently well treated. They further added, that the Portuguefe, not long ago, detached two hundred men to the ifland of Melchior Alvares, in hopes to cut off the retreat of our men, and to prevent their excurfions, but came too late, our people being retired before. That the enemy had likewife made them- felves malf ers of the fort Dos Affagados, where Mr. Bulleflract being made a prifoner, was now on his way to the Bahia. Captain Lamhartz hearing this account, thought it his bell way to retreat towards the mouth of the river, where, having fpent tv/o days in refitting his fliips, he returned the i ft of October to the Receif. The fame ill fuccefs attended us at Seregippo and Porto Calvo ; for the council hav- ing fent a bark with provifions to their relief, the fame, contrary to her orders, came to anchor before Rio St. Francifco, where being feized by the enemy, the garrifon of Seregippo being thereby dil;ippointed in their hopes, were forced to furrender, after they had fpent all their provifions. After this misfortune, there was not the leaft probability left of faving the garrifon of Porto Calvo, which lying deep into the country, the river was not navigable thereabouts, by reafon of its narrownefs, and that the enemy was mafter of the field on both fides, fo that they were likewife obliged to furrender for 6 want 822 kieuhoff's miAZIL. want of neceflaries. The garrifons of thefe three forts were, contrary to their capitula- tion (by virtue of which they were to be conducted to the Receif ), carried prifoners to the Bahia ; but thofe that could not follow the reft, by reafon of ficknefs, or other wife, were cut to pieces by the Portuguefe. Many of the foldiers belonging to thefe as well as other garrifons, and of the troops under Colonel Haus, dreading the danger of the land journey to the Bahia, did take fervice among the Portuguefe : but Captain Nicholas Nicholfon being fent with fixty- four of thefe Dutch to prepare an ambulh for fome of our forces, look. this opportunity to join with us, which exafperated the enemy to that degree, that they difarmed all the Dutch that had taken fervice there, and murdered them in cool blood, the like they did with the Dutch inhabitants that had ftaid behind in the country. - In the meanwhile the captainlhip of Parayba, through the good conduft of their go- vernor Paul de Linge, remained in obedience, at leaft in outward appearance, till the 25th of Auguft 1645, when the inhabitants, having received intelligence of the defeat of Colonel Haus, and the furrender of the cape of St. Auftin, and being at the fame time encouraged by the fuccours of five companies, and good ftore of arms, fent to them by Vidal from Pernambuko, they began alfo to take up arms, with an intention to cut off the communication betwixt the garrifon in the monaftery of St. Francifco, as the in- habitants of Fredericia (a place of no ftrength), and the forts near the fea-fliore ; but Mr. Linge fhrewdly fufpefting their defign, did, with confent of the reft of the officers there, order all the citizens with their eft'edts, and the before-mentioned garrifon, to withdraw within thefe forts, to prevent their being furprifed by the Portuguefe, and to ferve as an additional ftrength for the defence of the forts ; for which reafon alfo the Brazilians inhabiting with their families in thofe parts, were commanded to intrench themfelves under the cannon, which ferved for outworks to them. The enemy finding themfelves by the conjundion of thefe forces, difappointed in their defign of making themfelves mafters of Parayba by force, had recourfe to their wonted artifice, not quef- tioning but they might have the fame fuccefs in purchafing the forts of Parayba, as they had had at the cape of St. Auftin. To encompafs which, they fent in September 1641?, one Ferdinand Rodrigo de Bulhaus, clerk of the court of juftice of Parayba, with a let- ter direfted to the commander-in-chief, Paul Vander Linge, offering him the fum of nineteen thoufand gilders, if he would furrender the faid fort into their hands. But this meifage had not the defired effeft, the meflenger being, by order from Mr. de Linge taken into cuftody, and hanged the next day ; of which he fent notice to the council the 1 6th of September. In the meanwhile, (according to Mr. de Linge's let- ter from the 6th of September) five companies more of the enemy's troops, making in all about three hundred men, were arrived in Parayba, which being joined by the ableft of the inhabitants, had pofted themfelves near Tibery, where they had publiftied by proclamation, for every one to repair to his fugar-mill, under pain of forfeiting the fame. The paflage betwixt the Affagados and the quinquangular fort, where the cattle be- longing to the Receif were kept at pafture, being much infefted by the enemy's parties, one of which had taken good part of it, a fmall wooden fort was ordered to be erected in the moft convenient poft, for the fecurity of the meadows thereabouts. Some time before, viz. the 26th of July, orders were fent from the council to Servaes Carpentier, to difarm the inhabitants of Goyana, who thereupon petitioned the faid council to be excufed from furrendering their arms, confidering that thirty-feven Portu- guefe of Kunhao, who had been difarmed, were murdered by the Tapoyers, and that 2iey were daily in fear of the fame treatment, till they were further removed from their borders. nieuhoff's brazil. 823 borders. The council anfwered, that the murder committed upon thefe Portuguefe had been done without their knowledge, and contrary to their orders ; that in cafe they per- fifted in their allegiance, they had nothing to fear from the Tapoyers, whilft they were under their proteftion ; neither ought they to imagine that the difarming of them, was done with an Intention to leave them a prey to the Tapoyers, but for our own fecurity, and to furnifh them with a plaufible excufe not to join with the rebels, whenever they fhould be prompted thereunto by them. At the fame time they repeated their orders to Mr. Carpentier, not to defift from difarming thofe of Goyana, notwithftanding their petition to the contrary, but that he fhould be very careful, that neither the foldiers nor Brazilians of Marni might be burthenfome to them. The council alfo deputed Mr. Aftelle and Captain William Lambartz, with letters to John Duwy and Karakara, the firft king, and the fecond commander-in-chief of a troop of the Tapoyers, with prefents to all the reft of their commanders, in order to engage them to join with us, they hav- ing complained of their not having been prefented, like as John Duwy was before ; ac- cordingly the faid Mr. Aftelle and Captain William Lambartz having taken their leave the 28th of Auguft of the council, took {hipping for Parayba, in order to go from thence to Kunhao to treat with the Tapoyers. The members of the court of juftice and the council of war, in conjundion with the magiftrates, having reprefented to the great council the abfolute neceflity of having the houfes in Maurice's Town pulled down and laid level with the ground ; an order of the faid council was publiftied the 29th of Auguft by beat of drum, enjoining the inha- bitants to pull down fuch houfes, within the fpace of two days, and in cafe of failure, every body to be at liberty to break down the fame for his ufe ; the houfe of Mr. Rechteren only excepted, which was to be converted into a redoubt, for the defence of the adjacent plain. The fame day John Denninger, lately lieutenant to Colonel Haus, fucceeded Captain Baar, now a prifoner with the enemy, in his command ; and many negroes offered to ferve the company under a captain of their own choofmg. The 30th of Auguft, Captain William Lambartz, with part of his forces returned to the Receif from Parayba, where he gave the council an account of his negotiation : that not without a great deal of trouble they at laft obtained two hundred Tapoyers from their king John Duwy, who pretended that he dreaded an incurfion from one of his neighbours, who in the abfence of his troops might perhaps kill him with all his family, and demanded at the fame time, that all the Portuguefe might be killed in Parayba. That he marching with thefe Tapoyers into the faid captainftiip of Parayba, they aftually flew all the Portuguefe they met with in their way, to the number of one hundred per- fons, and plundered their houfes ; and as foon as they found him prepared to appeafe them, one half of them, with what negroes and other booty they had got, returned home ; but continuing his march with the reft through Goyana towards the Receif, the Tapoyers did no fooner underftand that they were likely to meet with fome oppofi- tion by the way, but they followed the footfteps of the reft homewards, fo that he was forced to retire with all fpeed to the fort of St. Margaret in Parayba, from whence he returned by fea to the Receif. Hereupon the council difpatched fome letters the i6th of September for Rio Grande, direfted to king John Duwy, Jacob Rabbi and Rudolf Baro, exhorting them to join their arms with ours, for our mutual defence, and to chafe the Portuguefe that were on their march thither, from thence. The 13th of September 1645, Jeronymo Serrao da Payva, late admiral of the Portu- guefe fleet (made prifoners in the late fea-engagement in the bay of Tamandare) ap- peared before the council, where being examined concerning the defigns of the governor of the Bahia in fending a fleet, and landing his forces in the bay of Tamandare, as like- wife 824 n£EUHoff's brazil. wife concerning the fleet under the command of Salvador Korrea de Saa, he refufed to give any other anfwer, or to make the leaft confeffion, but that he was fent with the faid fleet and forces to ofler his afliftance to appeafe the revolt arifen among us. He defired alfo leave to fend a letter by a drum.mer to the colonels Martin Soares Moreno and Andrew Vidal, about the exchanging of his perfon, and fome other Portuguefe pri- foners, which was granted. Some of the citizens having conceived a jealoufy, as if their prefllng circumfl;ances and the need they flood in of prefent relief, had not been fufficiently reprefented to the council of Nineteen in Holland, it was thought fit by the council to communicate the contents of the two iaft letters to their fatisfaftion. The igth of September, about noon, our whole fleet retired from the bay of Taraan- dare into the road of the Receif, with two men of war and two fmall veflfels, taken from the enemy ; where I was arrived long before, having left them immediately after the engagement. The fame night Servaes Carpentier, who died the day before, was in- terred. The fame day the yacht called the Doe, and one of the fmall veflfels taken from the enemy, and called by us the Receif, were fent a cruifing to the cape of St. Auitin, to prevent the enemy receiving any fupplies by fea thereabouts. The council being fenfible that the enemy made it his chiefeft endeavour to drive away their cattle, and to prevent them by ft;rong parties from fetcliing of wood and fifliing, a company of fuzileers were ordered to be ereded out of other companies, who were to be commanded by Captain Renbagh, and to ferve as a conftant guard againfl; the enemy's flying parties. The 2ifl: of September, the following proclamation of par- don for fuch as had taken fervice with the enemy, was publiflied. A Pardon pvblijloed. *' The great council of the Dutch Brazil being made fenfible, that many of their fubjecls being fallen into the enemy's hands, have either for fear of being killed or tranfported, and out of other confidetations, taken fervice among the enemy's troops, and confidering that moil of them have been inveigled by their commanders, and perhaps are in a fair way of repenting of their error, have thought fit, by thefe pre- fents, to grant our pardon to all fuch as fliall return to our fervice, for all part ofi'ences ; with our promife, that they ihall receive the advantage of the fame ftation they were pofl'eflTed of among us before ; and fuch as are willing to return to their native country, fliall have paflports granted them for that purpofe : from the benefit of which pardon, are however excepted Dirck Hoogftraten, and the other traitors, who being com- manders of forts, have treacheroufly delivered up the fame to the enemy." By this time the enemy had blocked up all the avenues by land, leading to the Receif, in hopes to reduce us by famine, having ported both all the Portuguefe forces fent to their aid from the Bahia, and the rebellious troops from the city of OHnda to the Baretta, in the form of a half-moon ; and made about half a league from the fort of AtFagodas an entrenchment provided with fix pieces o|: heavy cannon, brought hither from Porto Calvo ; but duril; not -attack us by force, knowing we were prepared for their reception. Mr. Dortmund having by his letters reprefented to the council, the fiecefllty there was oi fending one of their members to provide for the fecurity of Itamaiika, and to keep the Brazilians (confifling of fifteen hundred men, women, and children), by his authority in their duty againlt the fulicitations of Kamaron, who left no Itone un- turned nieuhovf's brazil. 825 turned to bring them over to his fide ; they defired Mr. Bulleftraet to take upon him this province; who accordingly, the 23d of September, fet iail thither in the ihip the Deventer, and returning the 29th of September to the Receif, gave the following account to the council. He arrived about noon at the entrance of the river Maria Farinha, where being informed by John Vos, mafter of a bark, that the enemy had twice attacked the city of Schoppe, and continued before it ftill, he went in a fhallop with five or fix fea- men to the fort Orange, but was no fooner efpied by the garrifon, but they de- fired him not to come nearer, they being ftill fmartly engaged with the enemy upon the hill, and doubtful of fuccefs : whereupon he fent two ieamen, with a letter to Mr, Dortmund, who being encouraged by the reward of two reals, brought an anfwer from him the fame night, intimating that the enemy had been forced to retire. The 25th of Auguft, by break of day, he went in a fhallop to the city of Schoppe, and finding that the enemy, what with the brave refiftance made by the garrifon, 'what with fear of this fliip, had abandoned not only the city, but alfo the whole ifland, he ordered the fortifications to be forthwith repaired, and to be put into a good pofture of defence. For the enemy perceiving that it was in vain to attack us upon the Receif, fent great part of their forces, embarked in eight boats and a bark, againft Itamarika, the 20th of September ; where having furprifed and vigoroufly attacked our forces, ported on the hill near the city (our deferters making the firft attack), that they the third time made themfelves mafters of it, forcing our troops to retreat into their entrenchments of the church. About three days after, viz. the 23d, Mr. Bulleftraet, as we are told, arrived in the ftiip Deventer, to give the neceflary orders for the defence of the place ; and to keep the Brazilians in awe, he brought along with him fome volunteers chofen from among the citizens, the garrifon of the Receif being fo weak as not to be rendered ufelefs by any further detachments ; befides that there were four hundred Brazilians capable of bearing arms at Itamarika. He was charged by the great council, and the members of the council of war, to watch above all things for the defence of the fort Orange, which was to be maintained to the laft, if they were not^ able to keep the whole ifland on the hill. Mr. Bulleftraet, after his arrival there, found it abfolutely neceflary to preferve likewife the city of Schoppe, from whence the faid fort muft be fupplied with wood, its fituation being fuch, as that fo long as we were mafters at fea, we could maintain a correfpondence betwixt the faid fort and city ; for which purpofe alfo, the yacht called the Golden-Doe, had her ftation appointed betwixt the fort Orange and the hill, to maintain the paflTage of the river between both. But to return to the fiege of the city : the enemy made three vigorous attacks upon the entrenchment on the hill, but was repulfed with the lofs of one hundred and fifty killed ; though a barber, who after the fight deferted them, made their lofs amount to four hundred and fifty. Kamaron and Hoogftraten were wounded, and we had only fifteen killed and fixteen wounded. The Brazilians lately tranfported thither, from the villages of Goyana, Iguaracu, and other places, behaved themfelves to a miracle upon this occafion, though it muft be allowed that the arrival of Mr. Bulleftraet did not a little cool their courage, which made them abandon the ifland in the night, betwixt Sunday and Monday. The 2d of Oftober the great council entered upon a fecond debate concerning the prefervation of Itamarika, they having received certain intelligence, that the enemy had undertaken the laft expedition againft that ifland, upon hopes of being feconded VOL. XIV. 5 N therein ^a6 Kiel'hoff's brazil. therein by certain perfons of our party, with whom they kept a fecret correfpondencv ; and though they were in the dark upon whom in particular to fix the intended treachery, yet did they think it conducing to the fafety of that fo important place, to remove Captain Sluyter with his company from thence, and in their (lead to fend thither the company commanded by Captain William Lambartz, and to intrull him with the fnpreme command of all their forces there, which was put in execution accordingly the next day. The entrenchments round the church and the fort Orange were alfo ordered to be ftrengthened with paliladoes ; and the firft (purfuant to the advice of Garftman and Dortmund), I ordered to be furrounded with a counterfcarp, within the compafs of which a company of Brazilians were lodged, with their wives and children, and the reft to be employed in the defence of the fort Orange ; fo the redoubt which commanded the place, from which the fort was fupplied with water, was ordered to be repaired againll a fudden attack, without which the fort could not long fubfifl, or hold out againil an enemy. Letters were about the fame time delivered to the council, dated the 5th of October, by Major Auftin de Magethaes, fent by Andrew Vidal, to treat about the exchange of prifoners ; he told them, that fmce Admiral Serrao de Payva had by two ftveral letters folicited his releafement, he defired that the fame might be exchanged for other foldiers, or be ranfomed by Antonio Telles de Sylva, governor of the Bahia. He defired alfo that a cartel might be agreed upon for the exchange of the foldiers ; and that in the meanwhile fuch of the Portuguefe inhabitants, as were prifoners with us, might be releafed for reafonable ranfom, which was not accepted of by the council. In the meanwhile (purfuant to the letters from the commander-in-chief of Rio Grande, and John Hoek of the 6th of Odober^, Jacob Rabbi, with a fmall troop of Tapoyers and Brazilians, in conjunftion with thirty Dutch inhabitants, made themfelves mafters of the feat of John Leftan, with the flaughter of fifteen Portuguefe. But they had not the fame fuccefs at Fernandez Menda's houfe in the Potigi, which being defended by fifty Portuguefe, they were repulfed with fome lofs. The enemies finding themfelves difappointed in their defign of gaining Parayba by treachery, did again apply all their care to block up the avenues leading to the Receif, in hopes of reducing it by famine. This occafioned many fkirmifhes, in which the Brazilians, who got the greateft part of their provifion out of the country, did a confiderable mifchief to the Portuguefe ; who for their greater fecurity built a fort in Pernambuko (as they likewife did in the Vergea of Parayba) near the fugar-miil of George Huomo Pinto, but flightly fortified, and not able to hold out againfl; any vigorous attack. In Rio Grande the Tapoyers played the mafters over the Portuguefe j for as we told you before, that according to their cuftom they entered the faid captain- ftiip in July 1645, when being informed of the rebellion of the Portuguefe in Per- nambuko, they out of an in-born hatred to that nation, attacked the 1 6th of July fome of them in the fugar-mill of Kunhao, and killed every foul of them, the Dutch inha- bitants thereabouts not being ftrong enough to prevent it. From thence the Tapoyers marched to Monpobu, Goyana, and Potofi, places belonging likewife to Rio Grande, where finding a body of Portuguefe entrenched with palifadoes in the nature of a Palanka, they forced them, in conjundion with fome Brazilians, to furrender, under condition that their lives fhould be faved, provided they did not give any further occa- fion of dilturbance. But fome of the Portuguefe flying afterwards into Parayba, the Tapoyers looking upon this as a breach of the late treaty, did with the before-mentioned Brazilians agree to put the reft to the fword wherever they met with them, which they did NrEUHOFF's BRAZIL. 827 Hid accordingly, the Brazilians exclaiming againft the tyranny committed upon thirty or forty of their comrades, who, by Andrew Vidal's order, were tied to palifadoes in Serinham and ftrangled, which had this good efFeft, that Rio Grande for that time was entirely purged of the rebellious crew, except feme few who efcaped their hands. Their eftates and cattle were afterwards difpofed for the benefit of the company, and others their creditors, which furniflied the public magazines with good ftore of flefh, at a very feafonable time. The Portuguefe being fenfible that we drew con- fiderable fupplies of provifions from that country, endeavoured to prevent it by fending feveral bodies of their troops thither, but were always forced to retire to Parayba, whither they carried as much cattle along with them as they could. According to the depofition of Captain Nicholas Nicholfon (who came over to us the 1 2th of November, as we (hall fee anon) the four companies of Dutch quartered in the Vergea were as follows : The company of Nicholas Nicholfon, fixty-three men, and among them twenty- three mufquets. The company of Alexander Buchhalt, of forty-three men, among whom thirty-fix mufquets. The company of Captain Anthony, who was mortally wounded in a late engage- ment, confifted of thirty-fix men, and among them thirty-two mufquets. The company of John de Wit, of forty men, but miferable wretches, and among them only twelve mufquets. Befides thefe they had two other Dutch companies in Goyana, one commanded by George Peterfon of feventeen men, all pikes, the other by La Cour of nineteen men, likewife moft pikes. They had alfo two more in Parayba, one under the command of Captain Peter Gendre of nineteen men, mofl. pikes ; the fecond by Edward Verfman of twenty men, among whom was but one mufqueteer. So that the whole number of thefe eight companies amounted to no more than two hundred and fifty-feven men ; their colonel was Hoogftraten, and Francis la Tour, late alderman of Serinham, major, a profeffed enemy to the Hollanders. Moft of the Dutch prifoners were put under a neceffity of taking fervice with the enemy, being otherwife in danger of being murdered in their way to the Bahia, as it happened to forty-two prifoners taken at the cape of St. Auftin, who were all flain in the fugar-mill Konjau, near Serinham. He furthei* declared, that the enemy's forces in the Vei'gea confifted of about feven hundred men, fent from the Bahia, divided into nine companies, well armed with mufquets and fire- locks. That befides thefe, they had about one hundred men, gathered from among the Portuguefe inhabitants, they having forced all the young men from the fouth of Huma, as far as St. Lawrence, to take up arms : fome being armed with fire-locks, others with mufquets they had taken from us ; they were for the moft part mulais, and an undifciplined rabble, commanded by John Fernandes Vieira as colonel, and Anthony Dias, (who came from the Bahia) their major. Their captains moft in efteem among them were, Simon Mendes, Domingos Fagundos, and John d'Albuquerque. Kamaron commanded one hundred Brazilians armed with blunderbufies, and Dias two hundred negroes (among whom fifty were ours), provided with very good guns ; befides fome Tapoyers. F,ach foldier had for his daily allowance, a pound of meat, and about a pint of farinha or meal, and tvi^elve gilders per month ; a captain one hun- dred and twenty gilders, an enfign forty-two, a ferjeant twenty-one, and a corporal fifteen gilders per month. But they only paid the Dutch troops with ready money, the account with the Portuguefe from the Bahia being made up but once a year. They were at that time bufy in raifing of a fort with four fmall ba'lions and a powder-houfe, 5 N 2 betwixt 828 meuhoff's brazil* betwixt Bierbrom's fugar-mill and Cafa de Sabrodo, upon each of which were to be mounted three pieces of cannon, eight pieces having been brought for that purpofe from Porto Calvo, among which were five of metal. Round about this fort tiie fol- diers from the Bahia had their quarters affigned them, except the company commanded by John de Magehais, which was quartered in the Baretta, with four Dutch companies, viz. the Dutch that were in the fugar-mill of Sierbrom, and thofe commanded by Captain Peter Kavalkanti, and Anthony Jaconio, and tv,o or three companies of the Portuguefe come from the Bahia, in the fugar-mill Brito ; the reft being Portuguefe, mulats, and other idle fellows they had forced to follow them from the fouth. Thefe were armed for the moft part with fire-locks and mufquets, the reft with pikes. Andrew Vidal, John Fernandes Vieira, and Major Hoogftraten, were at that time in the Cafa de Sabrodo ; all thefe confifted not in above fix hundred men. About the fugar-mill of John de Mendonce were quartered three companies, two at the houfe of Sebaftian Karvalho, and two more in the fugar-mill of Mengao. The reft were pofted in the Salines, Baretta, and the city of Olinda. Some of Kamaron's troops were in the fugar-mill of Van School, and in the houfe of John Kordero de Mendoje, upon the bank of the river, being their advanced guard ; Henry Dias with his troops had his poft in the houfe of Mr. Luffelen. The redoubts belonging to the city of Oliuda were manned only with feventeen foldiers. In November the great council received intelligence, both by letters from Paulo de Linge out of Parayba, as alfo by feveral deferters, that the enemy had fent four hun- dred men, two hundred of which were foldiers, the reft inhabitants, from Rio Grande into Parayba, to make themfelves mafters of the open country, or at leaft to drive away the cattle ; whereupon it was refolved, with confent of Colonel Garfman, to endeavour to hinder the execution of the enemy's defign. The 1 2th of November, Captain Nicholas Nicholfon, a native of Amfterdam, came, as we told you before, over to us to the Receif. He was among other prifoners of the cape of St.Auftin, carried from thence to St. Antonio, where he took fervice among the Portuguefe, but with no other intention than to defert them upon the firft opportu- nity ; he being entrufted with a captain's commiflion, to command a company of Dutch foldiers forced to lift themfelves from among the prifoners they had taken, was ordered, at the recommendation of Hoogftraten, and Albert Geuitz Weddo, with the approba- tion of Vidal and John Vieira, to lie in ambufti for fome of our people in the Salines, with a detachment of fixty men, out of the four Dutch companies in their fervice ; and four more companies were ordered for a referve, to affift him upon all occafions. The fupreme command of the whole body being committed to him, he approached as near as he could with his Dutch to the fort Bruin, where he took the opportunity to pafs the river by break of day, and to go with them (they being all willing to follow) over to us to the Hud fort. Captain Nicholas Nicholfon had the command over the faid company confirmed to him by the council, they being all willing to enter into their i'ervice. But the enemy had no fooner notice of it, but tiiey difarmed all the Dutch, and under pretence of fending them to the Bahia, caufed them to be murdered by the way, with their wives and children. The 2d of November, the council had received advice from Mr. Linge from Paray- ba, that Andrew Vidal had entered that captainlliip with two hundred men, and that Kamaron had by letters ftrongly folicited Peter Potty, to defert our fervice with his Brazilians, but had received a fmart refufal ; the council fent him two pieces of fine linen cloth as a reward of his fidelity. For it ought to be obferved, that the Portuguefe, when they firft began to take up arms againit the government, did with letters and 7 gr^'^t nieuhoif's brazil. 829 great proniifes tempt the regidores or commanders of the Brazilians to join with them, but they were fo far from hearkening to them, that they fent all the letters written upon that account, both by Kamaron and the reft of the rebellious ring-leaders, without opening, to the council, thereby to avoid all fufpicion of keeping any correfpondence with the enemy, Peter Potty being a near kinfman of Kamaron ; and ever fince that time they have behaved themfelves fo well upon all occafions, and have done fuch confiderable mifchiefs to the Portuguefe, by plundering and killing them, wherever they could meet with them, that we had not the leaft reafon to miftruft the fmcerity of their intentions. The faid Mr. Linge did alfo fend word November the 4th that the enemy had at- tempted nothing as yet ; and from November 14, that a party of three hundred of our people being joined by fome Brazilians of Parayba, had engaged eight hundred of the enemy's troops, whom after a fmart engagement they put to the rout, with the flaugh- ter of a good number of their men. The Brazilians being encouraged by this fuccefs, did over-run all the flat country, and meeting with a good number of Portuguefe, who were merry-making upon St. Martin's eve in the fugar-mill of Andrew Dias de Tigeire- da, they attacked them fo furiouily, that after a flender refiftance they put them all to the fword, even the fon of the faid Tigeireda himfelf, and a prieit, without giving quarter to any body, except to a very beautiful maiden ; who, though almoft diftrafted at the death of her father, and fome of her other relations, that lay wallowing in their own blood, had fuch a powerful influence upon the hearts of thefe barbarians, that they brought her a prifoner fafely to the fort of Parayba. The 2ift of November towards the evening, three hundred and fixty foldiers (twenty of whom were taken from the Receif ) fet fail in fmall boats to the bay of Traican, and continued their march the fame night, under the command of Lieutenant Berge, Juf- tice Hoek, and the receiver-general of Pernambuko, towards Kunhao, in order to attack the enemy that were lately come into Rio Grande from Parayba ; but thefe enemies having got fome intelligence of our defigns, were retired from Kunhao to a retrenchment among the bogs, which being acceifible but in one place, they fo warmly faluted our forces that would have forced then]^ from thence with their fhot, that they were obliged to retreat, with the lofs of fome dead and wounded, to the caftle of Keulen, partly to refrefh their men, partly to prevent their penetrating deeper into the council. The 4th of December it was refolved to fend the fhip the Overyffel, and the yacht called the Sprew, towards the Bahia a-cruizing, to get intelligence of their naval flrength thereabouts, and to endeavour to take fome prizes. The 5th of December the great council fent for all the commanders of the Brazilians, to inform them, that they had received confiderable fupplies of powder, ball^ and all other forts of ammuni- tion, by the fliip called the Swan, with letters from Holland ; that they were equipping a confiderable fleet for their relief, at which the Brazilians were extremely rejoiced ; the Portuguefe commanders having made it their bufinefs to perfuade them, that no fuch thing was expefted from Holland. The fame evening a Brazilian deferter declared, that all the Dutch were killed by the rebellious inhabitants, and their wives and children made flaves. The fame thing was confirmed by a negroe deferter, concerning Captain Bochholt ; who having taken fervice with the enemy, and being afterwards fufpefted by them, had caufed him to be murdered, as they had done with all the reft of the Dutch in their fervice, who were llain in their way to the Bahia. The 7th of December, it was refolved in council, toeredl four companies of fuzileers, the fame being found by experience to be more ferviceable at this juncture, for which purpofe. 8^0 T>nEUHor^'s brazil. purpdfe, the companies of Colonel Garfman, Captain Jurian Remberger, Captain Ni- icholas Nicholfon, and Captain John Taylor, were pitched upon before all the reft. In the fame month of December, a certain Portuguefe, Gafper Gonfalves, was taken by the Brazilians in the ifland of Itamarika, fent on purpofe to perfuade the Brazilians, that the Dutch intended to deliver them up to the Portuguefe for a certain fum of money, and they to retire with their effects into Holland, which caufed no fmall com- motion among the Brazilians, v/ho began to give credit to the relation. And becaufe Gonfalves had fpread this rumour abroad fome time before the arrival of Cafpar Hony- houfe, (who t!ie 28th of Auguft was appointed commander-in-chief of the Biazilians of Itamarika, inftead of Liftry, taken prifoner by the enemy), he was hardly put to it how to remove this jealoufy from among them. Jacob Rabbi, purfuant to Iiis letters of the Jith of December, was about the lame time preparing to enter eighty leagues further into the country towards the Tapoyers, to folicit their afliftance : he at lafl came to Oyepe, fon-in-lavv to King Duwy, who promifed, in cafe thofe of Siara would fend their troops to us, he, would endeavour to raife as many of his vafl'als as he could ; but King Duwy excufed himfelf, under pretence that many of his troops died by ficknefs in the Sartan. The night before the 27th of December, the enemy had, by means of a boat, faft- . ened two puppets with fire-works to the fhip called the Swan ; but being difcovered as foon as it took fire, was foon quenched without doing any damage to the veffel ; which made the fhips to be conftantly upon their guard for the future. The 30th of December, two fuch puppets, found by two foldiers in a fmall boat near the fort Bruin, were prefented to the council. This boat, which queftionlefs was fent on purpofe to fallen thefe puppets to fome fhip or other, being difcovered by the cen- tinels, the men quitftd the boat, leaving the faid puppets behind them. Mr. de Linge, by his letters dated the 30th of December, from the fort St. Margaret in Parayba, advifed, that a certain negroe, who had deferted the enemy's quarter of St. Andrew, had declared, that the enemy had built two large barks in order to tranf- port three hundred men in each, in order to attack Peter Potty, commander of the Brazilians, in his intrenchments. That Kamaron had been near three weeks in Parayba, the enemy's troops confiifing thereabouts in fixteen companies ; but that they had many fick among them for want of provifions, and that they had drawn all their forces out of Rio Grande. The 6th of January 1 646, Peter Bas, one of the members of the great council, did, by order from the faid council, fet fail with the two fliips the Lichthart and the Receif, and a bark, called the Blue-Boar, towards the captainfliips of Parayba and Rio Grande. His inftruftions were, to confult with Mr. Linge commander-in-chief in Pa- rayba, and the reft of the officers there, how to put the intrenchments and other works of the Brazilians, into a pofture of defence. From thence he was to go to Rio Grande, there to take an exaft account both of the real eftates and chattels of fuch Portuguefe, as by reafon of their being engaged with the rebels, were forfeited to tlie company ; he was alfo to ufe his endeavours to have thofe goods which were upon that account concealed or embezzled, reftored for the benefit of the faid company. He was alfo ordered to a£t in all other refpeds, but efpecially in providing for the fecuriiy of the captainfhip and the fort, as he found it moft confiftent with our prefent intereft, and to exhort the inhabitants to remain ftedfaft in their duty, and not to negled the culti- vating of the grounds and breeding of cattle. The 1 2th of January, Peter Dunkerke arrived from Parayba, where he had been a cruifing before the Receif in the l])ip Hamcl j he brought a letter from I\Ir. Linge, dated NIEUHOFi's BRAZIL. B^J< dated in the fort St. Margaret, the i ith of January, whofent alfo one Mr. Steenhuifen to the coujicil, he having deferted the enemy when they began to kill the Dutch in their fervice. This S:.enhuifen biought advice to the council, that Kamaron, with five hundred well-appointed foldiers, was marched out of Parayba into Rio Grande to be mailers of the field there ; and, confequently, to keep our garrifons from being fupplied with cattle and farinha from thence. He further added, that the enemy were in want of meat, oil, and other neceffaries ; but that the inhabitants flattered themfelves, that, for want of provifions, we fliould fhortly be obliged to furrender our forts into the hands of the Portuguefe. This being Ukewife confirmed by Mr. Linge's letter, dated the loth of January, a council was called againft the 13th of January, Dirk Hamel and Mr. Bulleftraet being prefent, both members of the great council, befidest the aifeflbr Walbeck, as likewife Lieutenant-Colonel Garfman, Mr. Raetsfield, Mr. de Witt, Aldrich, Volbergen, and Sans, in order to deliberate concerning the prefent exigency, confideiing, that in cafe we fhould, by the enemy's being mafters of the field, be bereaved of the fupplies of cattle and farinha of Rio Grande, at a juncture when Itamarika and Parayba are clofely befet by their troops, it would be next to an inipoflibility to maintain ourfelves in the pofleflion of the Dutch Brazil, till the arrival of the expei2;ed luccours from Holland. It was therefore taken into confideration, whether this captainfliip might be beft fecured by a powerful diverfion, or by endeavouring to dwve him from thence. But being fenfible that the enemy were fo powerful near the Receif, Parayba, and Itamarika, as not to be attacked in any of thefe places, without expofing the whole Dutch Braz 1 to an imminent danger, it was refolved, that in order to attempt the relief of the captainfliip of Rio Grande, Mr. Dortmund fhould be or- dered to fend fixty foldiers under the command of Captain Welling, and one hundred ' Brazilian?, in the barks fent him for that purpofe, from Itamarika to Rio Grande ; at the fame time, orders were difpatched to Mr. I-inge, commander in the fort St. Mar- garet in Parayba, to fend the fame number of foldiers under Lieutenant Brefman, and ef Brazilians, to Rio Grande, to join with the rell that were to rendezvous there. Thefe forces, confifting of one hundred and twenty foldiers and two hundred Brazili- ans, fet fail the 1 9th of January for Rio Grande, and were thought fufficient to oppol'e the enemy's defigns on that fide. Mr. Dortmund and William Lambartz, by a letter dated the 15th of January, gave notice to the council, that they had fent a body of fixty foldiers and one hundred Bra- zilians abroad, as far in the Aldea by Oubus, and from thence to the fugar-miil Arra- ripe, but did not meet with any enemies in that part of the country, though they had feveral guns difcharged at them from among the woods ; fo that they returned to Ita= marika by the way of Tapafima. Mr. Linge, not long after, fent advice by his letter dated the 22d of January, at the fort of St. Margaret in Parayba, to the council, that Peter Potty with one hundred and fifty Brazilians, had attacked the enemy four hundred ftrong in the Aldea of MagrebbCj and put them to flight with the lofs of twenty killed, and many wounded, whereas they loft but one Brazilian. The 29th of January, it was refolved in council, to bring the fhips theEIias, Orange- tree, Deventer, Omlandia, and the Swan, into the road of the Receif, to be ready upon all occafions, in cafe the enemy fhould again appear at fea. Mr. Bas, purfuant to his letter from the caftle of Keulen, in Rio Grande, dated the 23d of January, could not, by reafon of a tempeft, land his forces at Kunhao, in order to join them with thofe under Captain Rhineburgh ; but was forced to land his forces ' the 1 4th and 1 5th near Peringi. In the meanwhile, Kamaron having found means to 6 break- 832 nieuhoff's brazil. break in through the Matta, had furprifed many of the inhabitants in their Fazendas, and killed them without diftindion of age or fex : he had fince ported himfelr with his forces, confifting of four hundred foldiers, as many Brazilians, and eighty Tapoyers, under the command of Antonio Jacomo Beferro, at a houfe of Henry Hamme in Mom- pabou, to cut off the provifions from us. Our forces confifting of about one thoufand foldiers, Brazilians and Tapoyers, marched the 23d of January to a houfe of John Leflan Navarre, to attack the enemy, and to force them to quit the captainfliip of Rio Grande. Befides thefe, Jacob Rabbi, and the fons of King Duwy, were the 19th, pail by the fort Keulen, at the head of fixty Tapoyers, and were daily followed by others, that came to our affiflance. Mr. Bas folicited alfo fome fupplles of provifions, of which they flood in great want, there being above one thoufand five hundred Brazilians, men, women, and children, lodged under the caille. He defired alfo fome money, ammu- nition, linen, and filks, to prefent to the Brazilians and Tapoyers ; all which, together with fome pieces of red cloth, was fent him by the council. According to this advice, it being much to be feared the enemy would fcarce ftand the brunt in Rio Grande, but retire into Parayba, it was taken into ferious confidera- tion the 'igth of January, whether it would be advifeable, in cafe the enemy fhould be forced by our troops, or voluntarily retreat into J-'arayba, to purfue them thither, and thereby endeavour the recovery likewife of that captainflnp : but confidering that, by reafon of the weaknefs of our garrifons, we were not in a condition to fend any furthtr fuccours from the Receif, Itamarika or Parayba, without running a manifeih hazard to our troops there ; whereas, on the contrary, the enemy did not want opportunity to relieve theirs from the adjacent places of Parayba, and that we lived in daily hopes of fuccours from Holland, it was judged the bed way, that the welfare of the whole Dutch Brazil ought not to be put to the hazard by fuch an enterprize as this. Accordingly orders were fent to Mr. Bas and the reft of the commanders of our troops there, to aft with all imaginable caution, and rather than expofe our men, in following the enemy into Parayba, to be contented with the recovery of the captainfliip of Rio Grande. The 30th of March, Colonel Garfman was, by fpecial order from the council, fent a fecond time with fome troops to the captainfliip of Rio Grande, to inform himfelf, whether any troops of the enemy were polled in that captainfliip, and in what number ; his inftru6lions were, that fo foon as he had received intelligence of the enemy, he fhould, with what forces he was able to bring together, endeavour to flop their pro- grefs. But if he found himfelf not ftrong enough to oppofe him, he fhould fend fpeedy advice thereof to the council, that they might fend him fpeedy fuccours, and that he was to take all imaginable care not to engage the enemy, before the arrival of the faid fuccours. But if he found the enemy already fo ftrongly entrenched as to be mafter of the country, without any hopes of forcing them from thence, the defence of the fort Keulen fhould be his chiefeft care, as likewife of the Brazilians, with their wives and children ; and fince, in cafe the faid fort of Keulen fliould be in danc^er of being attacked by the enemy, it would be of ill confequence, to have thefe women and children enclofed within thefe fortifications, for fear of want of provifions, he was flridlly ordered to tranfport them in time, to fome place of fecurity, fuch as Siara, or the like, where they might be able to fubfifl, and be fecure againft any attempt from the enemy. He was ordered alfo in his return to the Receif, to take en pa(]ant (if it could be done without inconveniency) a view of the fortifications of Itamarika and Pa- rayba, in order to give an account of their condition to the council. But n'ieuhoff's brazil. 833 But to return to Mr. Bas : according to his letters dated the 30th of January from the fort Keulen, Captain Rhinebergh had with his body made fix feveral attacks upon the enemy, who was retired from Mompabou and Kunhao into a bog, without being able to force their entrenchments ; we loft about one hundred killed and wounded in this acl^ion, and retreated to the houfe of John Leytan with order to get fome cattle, which was very fcarce thereabouts, our forces feeding moft upon fiflies, which they caught by the help of two large nets ; twenty-eight of our wounded men were brought to the Receif, with advice that notwithftanding this unfuccefsful attack on our fide, the enemy were retreated into Parayba. Mr. Bas alfo folicited fome frefli fupplies of men and ammunition, in order to purfue them into Parayba, but the refolution upon this head was deferred until they fliould hear further from Mr. Bas. The 7th of February, it was refolved by the council, with the approbation of Admiral Lichthart, to equip the Hollandia and the Swan, together with the yachts, the Flight, the Hamel, Bulleftraet, and Lichthart, for cruizing. By letters from Mr. Linge, dated the nth of February, at the fort Margaret in Parayba, the council was advifed ; how that, according to^the depofition of a negro deferter, Kamaron was come with all his troops into the city of Parayba, with an intention to attack our forts on that fide ; an anfwer, with what was thought neceflary for this prefent purpofe, was immediately fent back in a bark by the council. By another bark fent by Mr. Bas from Rio Grande, they were advertifed, that he lay ftill encamped with his troops near the houfe of John Leftan, where with much ado he could get provifions for them, the enemy being ftill pofted at Momguappe, and guarding all the avenues into the country ; that he had fent feveral fpies abroad, to get inteUigence concerning the prefent pofture of the enemy. The 1 7th of February, the fliip the Swan and the yacht called Bulleftraet were ordered to go out a-cruizing ; the 18th, the yacht the Flight, and the 20th, the fliip Hollandia, fet fail for the fame purpofe. The Ihip the Overyffel was alfo ordered to go out, to ferve for a fpy-ftiip on the coaft of Parayba. The 2 1 ft of February, the council received a letter from Mr. de Linge, dated the 1 8th, in the fort of St. Margaret, intimating that he had heard nothing fince of the enemy. Yet that he wifhed the forces he had fent to Rio Grande might be returned with all convenient fpeed, to make ufe of them for the defence of his forts, in cafe of an attack. The 24th of February, a party under command of Captain Killion Taylor and Captain Nicholas Nicholfon, were fent abroad towards the ifland of the Barette to get fome prifoners, but they returned the 20th to the Receif, having met with nobody except a man, at a confiderable diftance. Another party which had taken their way towards Olinda and Bracco de St. Jago, but with the fame fuccefs, the enemy having only fhewn himfelf at a diftance, as they were returning to the fort Bruin. The 27th of February, the enemy appeared with a ftrong body in the Salinas, but being faluted by fome cannon-ftiot from the fort Bruin, retired without attempting any thing. In the meanwhile, according to Mr. Linge's letter, from the 2d of March, three barks with foldiers were arrived in Parayba from Rio Grande, fo that the reft, under the command of Mr. Bas, being five hundred in number, might be hourly expected at the Receif. He further advifed, that he had feen no enemy of late, but being in- formed that a confiderable body lay encamped in a \-alley near the village of Maga- rebbe, he had ordered thither one hundred and twent)' foldiers, and one hundred Brazilians, to beat up their quarters, and to get fome prifoners. In effeft the 4th of March, he, with his troops confifting in five hundred men, arrived from Rio Grande at the Receif, and the 5th of March gave the council an account of his expedition. VOL. xrv. 5 o ' The 834 nibuhoit's brazix. The 9th of March in the night, the enemy appeared in three bodies near the fori Prince William, and gave us feveral volleys of fmall fhot, but being anfwered with our cannon, retired immediately. The fame day a party of fifty men were fent abroad under Lieutenant Mos to get intelligence ; being met by two companies of the enemy, a fharp encounter enfued, our forces retiring without any confiderable lofs, under the fort Wardenburgh, and the enemy retreated at the difcharge of fome of our cannon. By letters from Mr. Linge, dated the 8th of March, at fort St. Margaret in Parayba, the council received the unwelcome news that the enemy in Rio Grande had by a pre- tended flight drawn the 5th of March Lieutenant John de Vael with forty-eight foldiers, who were too eager in the purfuit of them, into an ambufh, where they had killed thirty of them, though, according to the report of fome deferters that were prefent at the engagement, not without confiderable lofs alfo on their fide ; Kamaron, Andrew Vidal and fome other Portuguefe officers of note, were alfo prefent. About the fame time fifteen Brazilians furprifed five men, fix women, and eight children, in an entrench- ment, feven leagues above Iguaraku, called Papeku. In the meanwhile the Tapoyers, who according to their cuftom come once a year, about Midfummer, from among the mountains, fome hundreds flrong, into the captainfliip of Rio Grande, were, after they had carried avray all the horfes and mares they could light on, retired to the hills ; a thing very fortunate for us, for without it our garrifons would not have been able to fubfift there. Provifions growing every- day fcarcer in the Receif, it was agreed the 6th of March by the council, to fend the Bra2ilians raifed in Rio Grande with a company of fuzileers to Itamarika, to eafe our magazines of that burthen, whihl they might provide themfelves with farinha- roots in that ifland. Much about the fame time the two majors Bayert and Piftoor, appeared before the council, intimating, that being informed that the citizens began to murmur at their flaying at home, pretending that they were fufficient to guard the forts ; for which purpofe, as it was reported. Admiral Lichthart had ofiered three hundred men, they were come on purpofe to offer their fervice, and were ready to take the field with thofe few forces they had left in the garrifons ; though they at the lame time protefted, that they were of the fame opinion, which had been approved fome days before, to wit, that this undertaking, by reafon of their fmall number, would be full of danger, and yet not anfwer the end of bringing provifions into the Receif. Admiral Lichthart being thereupon afked whether he had made any fuch offer, he declared not to have fpoken any thing like it, his fhips being fo ill manned, that he could fpare no men for any other fervice. The night before the 13th of March, the enemy appeared both on the other fide of the river and the dike leading to the fort Bruin, difcharging their mufquets and blunderbuffes at our centinels, but upon the firfl falute from the cannon of the fort retired. The fame they did near the fort of Afiagados. The fame evening betwixt nine and ten o'clock they made an attack upon the wooden fort, built betwixt the Affjgados and the Quinquangular fort, for the defence of the plain, which they con- tinued until one o'clock, cutting down fome palifadoes, and bringing great ftore of dry reeds, in order to fet it on fire, but in vain, being forced to retreat with the lofs of fome of their men ; on our fide two were killed, and four or five wounded, among the laft was Lieutenant Cafper Ferdinand Van Grol, who received two dangerous wounds. The next morning the broken palifadoes were repaired, and another row- ordered to be fet beyond the firft, and foot-angles to be laid betwixt both. The j 7th of March th.. bark called the Parayba coming from Siara, brought advice, that the Brazilians were gone fr om Siara to Komefi, having refufed to return to Rio Grande, tor NIEUHOFf's BRA'ilL. 835 for fear they fliould be called to a fevere account there for the murder of feveral inha- bitants, committed by them before. By the fame bark Mr. Linge fent advice from the 1 4th of March, that the enemy had appeared of late in a confiderable body near the northern fort, but was retired now, but whether to Rio Grande or St. Andre, he was not able to tell. They had fpoiled all the farinha-root fields in the Aldeas Magarebbe, and thereabouts ; fo that the Brazilians being for the future to befurnillied with provifions out of the magazines, he defired a fupply of wine and oil : immediately advice thereof was fent to Dortmund commander-in-chief of Itamarika, and fome ammunition, befides one thoufand gilders in ready money. The fame fum was tranfmitted to Mr. Linge in Parayba, and a barrel of oatmeal, a pipe of wine, a hogfliead with oil, and another filled with dry peafe, befides good (lore of ammunition. He was alfo ordered to fend the Brazilians back to Rio Grande for defence of that captainfhip, and to get intelligence whether the enemy had direfted his march thither, in order to oppofe his defign. In the meanwhile, Admiral Lichthart (purfuant to his letter of the 21 ft of March to the council) had embarked fome foldiers and Brazilians in Itamarika, and taking his courfe to the north entrance of the river, was got up as far as to the ille of Tapefco, from whence they had brought back a great quantity of farinha-roots, for the ufe of the Brazilians in Itamarika, and of the magazines there. The 30th of March it was reiolved, with the approbation of Admiral Lichthart, to fend the following Oiips a cruifing before the Bahia ; the Uliflingen, the Ter Veer, and the yachts the Greyhound, the Heemftede, Sprew, and Bulleftraet ; and on the 6th of April, the Swan, the Zouteland, the Flight, and the yacht the Lichthart, were ordered to go a-cruifing before the cape of St. Auftin, and fet fail the loth of April accordingly. The 31ft, letters were brought to the council, dated the 25th of March, in Rio Grande, intimating that Paulo de Kunha and Kamaron were entered Kunhao with eight hundred men, among whom were three hundred mufqueteers, to carry away the cattle from thence to Parayba. But, according to Colonel Garfman's letters to the council, upon his arrival, which was the 4th of April, the enemy were already retired out of Rio Grande, without undertaking any thing againft our people, who, confifting only in four hundred foldiers and three hundred Brazilians, lay encamped near the houfe of John Leftan, yet they carried off fome cattle. About the fame time they received letters from Mr. Linge, that the enemy had made feveral falfe alarms near the forts, without attempting any thing. And, in effeft, in June, they did not appear any more thereabouts. In the year 1 646, the 5th of March in the night, Jacob Rabbi was, at the inltigation of Lieutenant-colonel Garfman, near Potofi, about three leagues diftant from the caftle of the fame name, villainoufly Ihot with two bullets, as he was going home from one John Miller's houfe, where he had been entertained that evening in company with Colonel Garfman. Rabbi had a confiderable time before (as he had declared to his friends) fufpefted the treachery of Gariinan, and was for that reafon juft upon his departure out of Rio Grande, in order to fhelter himfelf among the Tapoyers. The ■council refented this villainy to the higheft degree, fince, confidering that this Jacob Rabbi was in great efteem among the Tapoyers, and his wife a Brazilian, it was to be feared, that this would exafperate both the Tapoyers and BraziUans agauift us. So that Garfman returning the 19th of March to the Receif, after he had given an account of his expedition to the council, was, by their particular order, the 24th of 502 March, 836 March, taken into cuftody, and fent on board the Hollandia, Major Bayert being ordered in the mean-time to fupply his place. This Jacob Rabbi, a native of Germany, had been employed by authority of the ftates-general. His Highnefs the Prince of Orange, and the company, to engage and keep the Topayers in the interell of our government ; in which commifTion he had acquitted himfelf fo well, that he brought thefe Tapoyers feveral times, out of the mountains (their habitations) to our afliftance. His dwelling-place was in the fort Keulen, in Rio Grande, where he had married a Brazilian woman. Gafper Honyhoufe, commander of the Brazilians in Itamarika, being flain in the laft engagement in that ifland, Mr. Vincent Van Drillenberg was, at their requeft, conflituted their commander by the council. The 17th of April, fome papers were delivered to the council, which had been dif- perfed by the enemy, to debauch our foldiery ; in return of which, they fent abroad their fummons, upbraiding each of their fubje£ls as were in the enemy's fervice, with treachery, and exhorting them to return to their duty. It was alfo agreed to publiih a copy of a letter delivered by the Portuguefe ambaffador at the Hague, to the ftates- general, from the King his mafter ; with the anfwer of the ftates to the faid letter : for fince the King of Portugal in this letter did difown the war, and the proceedings of Antonio Telles de Sylva, and his fending of his troops into the Dutch Brazil, they did not queftion but by this means to open the eyes of the Portuguefe inhabitants, not to flatter themfelves with vain hopes of affiftance from Portugal ; befides, that we were in hopes thereby to fow the feeds of miftruft betwixt them and the Portuguefe com- manders from the Bahia. The 24th of April, two Portuguefe companies, commanded by Captain Lawrence Karnero and Peter Kavalkanti, confiding of about forty men each, marched from the Vergea and the city of Olinda to Iguaracu. They were headed by Vidal and Hoogftraten in perfon, who having got intelligence that Admiral Lichthart and John Nicholfon were gone to Itamarika, to get fome farinha-roots. The 25th of April, as they were marching from Iguaracu, a certain German furgeon, named Chriflopher Mars, who was formerly taken prifoner by them, happening to flay fomewhat behind, whilft he was (topping, was furprifed by one of our parties near Tapafmo. Upon examination by Mr. Walbeck, he declared, that not long ago there were nine companies of the enemy's forces quartered in the Baretta, the city of Olinda, and in the mills of Bierboom and Brito ; each company confided of betwixt forty or fifty men. That there were five companies more, much of the fame ftrength, polled in the Salinas j and Henry Dias, with two hundred mulats and negroes in Gafpar Cox's houfe, but they had then no forces in the Vergea. That after Nicholas Nicholfon was come over to us with his troops, Martin Soares Moreno had caufed two hundred and fixty Dutch, both foldiers and inhabitants, (among whom were fix women and two children,) to be killed by a company, of the country-militia, in the woods of Tabatinga, betwixt Sibero and Deriba, in their way to the Bahia, befides thofe killed by his order in other places, amounting in all to three hundred. By this time there began to be great fcarcity of meat in the Receif, notwithllanding which, the garrifons in the outworks, as well as the Brazilians in Itamarika, with their wives and children, were to be fupplied from thence ; and the farinha roots being either all taken up before by our own people, or elfe deftroyed by the enemy, in the ifland of Itamarika : to fupply this prefling neceffity, it was refolved by the great council, to fend a detachment of four hundred men in barks to St. Lawrence de Praja 2 or nieuhoff's brazil. ST,y or Tujukapa, to fetch mandlnka or farinha-roots from thence. This detachment was compofed out of thefe following troops : Out of Captain Nicholas Nicholfon's company, nine men. From the Quinquangular fort, twenty-five. From the AfFagados, twenty-five. Out of the company of Captain William Lambartz, fifty. Volunteers from Itamarika, thirty. Brazilians, one hundred and fifty. The 29th of April the council was, by letters from Itamarika, advertifed, that our forces being fent abroad to fetch fome farinha, had chafed the enemy out of two or three entrenchments ; but retiring into another, furrounded with a deep ditch, they were there alfo, with more courage than condu61:, attacked by our troops, being forced to retire, with the lofs of fixteen killed and twenty-fix wounded, among whom was Captain William Lambartz : the enemy had likewife not a few killed on their fide. Mr. Dortmund, commander-in-chief of Itamarika, therefore defiring to be fupplied with meal, his magazines being quite exhaufted, the council fent thither, the ifl of May, twenty barrels with meal, two with oatmeal, two with dry peafe, befides a pipe of wine and brandy, and one thoufand gilders in money, for the ufe of the Brazilians. The 3d of May the council received advice, by a letter dated the 2d of May, from Mr. Dortmund, that the enemy had carried away ten negroes, four belonging to the company, the refl: to one Mr. Seulin, and four other men from Itamarika ; and that the Brazilians there had been fo far debauched by their intrigues, that they retired into a wood, and being twice fummoned to rejoin our troops, had refufed fo to do. That at laft Mr. Apprifius (minifter of the Brazilians) having been fent to reduce them to their duty, either by perfuafions or threats, his arguments were fo prevailing, that they returned quietly, alledging for their excufe, that they were forced to fly thither for want of fubfiftance. Hereupon Dortmund defired frefh fupplies for his magazines, that a perfon of authority "might be fent thither, and that another company might be put in place of that of Captain Vofterman, his men being ready to revolt. To remove all thefe obfl:acles, it was refolved immediately to difpatch thither Mr. Bulleftraet, a member of the great council, who was to agree with certain private per- fons to provide our garrifons with fifh, and to act in every thing there as he fhould find it moft expedient for the fervice of the company. Accordingly, Mr. Bulleftraet fet fail the 4th of May, in the yacht the Greyhound, and arrived the fame day in the afternoon in Itamarika ; where, having executed his commiflion, he returned the 10th of May to the Receif, and gave the following account to the council : that he had taken a view of the city of Schoppe, and the fort Orange, both which he had ordered to be ftrengthened ; as alfo, to fortify the old brick-houfe, formerly the ftadthoufe, with palifadoes againft any fudden attempt j that he having called before him all the commanders of the Brazilians, had reprefented to them that we were in daily expeftation of a powerful fuccour from Holland, exhorting them to remain ftedfaft in their duty, and to keep theiv foldiers under the beft difcipline they could ; he had alfo presented their commander with cloth for a fuit of clothes, and the reft with fome wine and money, which they very thankfully accepted : he had en pajfant taken a view of the plantations of Conradt Pauli, where he had found about one hundred and fixty cocoa-trees cut down by the Brazilians, being forced by famine to feed upon the fruit ; the like they had done in feveral other places ; that he had endeavoured to treat with feveral private perfons for a certain quantity of fiflx g-'S nieuhoff's braztl. o fifli to be delivered at the Receif, but could meet with none that would accept his offers ; they alledging, that moft of their negroes being either run away or taken by the enemy, they did catch no more fifli but v> hat they could readily fell in the illand, without the charge of fait and tranfportation ; that he had likewife propofed to the commander-in-chief of the Brazilians, to give them for the future money inftead of meal ; and that they were to be furniflied with three nets to catch fifli for their own ufe ; that the commander promifed to propofe it to the reft, and gave him fome hopes that they would accept of the faid offer. To fiipply the prefent want of provifions, which began to be fcarcer and fcarcer every day in Itamarika, Parayba, Rio Grande, and the Receif, by reafon that the expefted fupplies from Holland were not as yet arrived, and we were clofely blocked up by land ; it was thought fit to give all imaginable encouragement to the fifliing trade ; for which purpofe the two members of the great council, Mr. Hamel and Mr. Bas, or- dered, the 7th of May, to buy up as much yarn as poffible could be got, to make fifliing nets of, which afterwards ftood us in good ftead. A certain Portuguefe, who had committed man-flaughter in Angola, and was fled from thence to the Receif, having accufed John Vieira d'AUegoas, he was by order from the council taken into cuftody. This Portuguefe declared, that the faid Vieira had delivered to him a certain piece of parchment, written in charafters, and a box, wherein were feveral other papers, in order to carry them to the enemy, which parchment and box he produced in the prefence of the members of the council. John Vieira denying the matter, was put to the rack, but continued refolute in his denial ; till at laft the key of thefe charac- ters being found among his papers, and a certain Jew having uncyphered thefe letters, it appeared that he had given an account of the whole pofture of our affairs to the enemy, with direftlons how to make themfelves mafters of the Receif j fo that finding himfelf difcovered, he confeffed that he had written and delivered thefe cyphered papers to the Portuguefe ; and was executed the 29th of May. The magazines being by this time almoft exhaufted, there being fcarce provifions left for a few weeks, it was propofed by the council to the majors Bayert and Piftoor, that confidering it was not advlfeable to exafperate the foldiery at this junfture, by re- trenching their allowance of bread and other eatables, whether inftead of a pound of meat, they might not be prevailed upon to take fixpence, by this means to preferve that fmall ftore of flefli they had left ; which thefe two majors undertook to propofe to the foldiers, not without hopes of fucceeding in their projctfl. And that nobody might be exempted from bearing his fliare in the public calamity, it was ordered that the loaves which ufed before to weigii a pound and a half, fliould be reduced to one pound weight, and that each citizen and others depending on the company, nay the members of the great council themfelves, flioi^ld have an allowance only of two loaves per week ; the fame was to be given to all feaman, captains, lieutenants, and enfigns ; but the reft, from the ferjeant to the common foldler, fliould have three pounds of bread allowed them per week. Mr. IJnge advlfed from the iff of May, out of Parayba, that the enemy had not attempted any thing agalnft the forts, and that a party of Brazilians was gone abroad towards Tapoa, in hopes to take fome prifoners. Much about the fame time the council received advice, that Colonel Garfman, without orders from the council, had endeavoured by fome prcfents, to draw the Tapoyers into Rio Grande, under pretence of keeping them at hand, to enter Into a confederacy with the new members of the great council that were expeded from Holland. The council being not a little furprifed at this nieuhoff's brazil. 839 this undertaking, fmce by the coming of the Tapoyers into that captainfhip, they fhould be difappointed of a confiderable part of thofe fupplies they received from thence ; they fent word to Rudolph Barro to leave no ftone unturned to draw the Tapoyers by fair means back to their habitations ; but that if they would fend fome of their commanders to the Receif, all imaginable fatisfaction fhould be given them con- cerning the murder of Jacob Rabbi ; and the more to engage Barro to do his utmoft, a prefent of wine, brandy, and fome toys, was ordered to be fent him. For as the cafe then flood, it was abfolutely neceffary for us to remain maflers of Rio Grande, till the arrival of the futcours from Holland ; the vafl numbers of Brazilians that were fled to Itamarika, having confumed all forts of provifions there to that degree, that that ifland could not only not fend any fupplies to the Receif, but moft of the women and children of the Brazilians muff be fupplied out of the magazines there ; fo that Rio Grande was the only place left from whence they received a confiderable quantity of farinha and cattle ; which in fome meafure abated the fcarcity of provifions in the Receif, and by the prudent conduct of the council, was the chief means that the place continued in tolerable good health till the arrival of the fuccours, which without it, it would in all human probability have been impoflible to be done ; and no queflion but this captainfliip might for a confiderable time after, having furnifhed the garrifons to the fouth with neceilaries, had it not been for the following accident. The expected fuccours from Holland being detained by the winter-feafon and con-- trary winds, the Brazilians of Goyana, who with their wives and children had flickered themfelves in Itamarika, were reduced to the greateft extremity for want of food ; for after they had confumed all what the ifland could afford for their fubfiflence, and all the avenues by land being blocked up by the enemy, they had no other fupplies but what they received from our magazines : thefe being now exhaulled to fuch a degree, that each citizen had but one pound of bread allowed him per week (which however at that rate would not hold out above fourteen days longer), the council was under an abfolute neceflity to have it propofed to the Brazilians, to retire with their wives and children (in all about twelve hundred) to Rio Grande, where they might fubllft fome time upon what the country afforded. Accordingly they writ to Mr. Dort- mund the iff of May, and fent Mr. Walbeck thither in perfon, to perfuade the Bra- zilians to fend at leaft five hundred women and children, with a certain number of their men, to Siara and Rio Grande, there being at that time in all near fifteen hun- dred Brazilians, men, women, and children in that ifland, among whom were only five hundred fit to bear arms, under the command of Cafpar Honyhoufe, who had each fcarce a pound of bread allowed them per week. Provifions, as I told you before, growing daily fcarcer and fcarcer, by reafon the fuccours from Holland were detained beyond all expeftation, by contrary winds ; a general council was called, where the three members of the gi-eat council, Mr. Hamel, Mr. Bulleftraet, and Mr. Bas, being prefent, as likewife Admiral Lichthart, and the two Majors Bayert and Piftoor, the following points were taken into debate. Firff of all, the fending of the Brazilians from Itamarika to Rio Grande being looked upon as unavoidable, immediate orders were given to get the neceflary tranfport veffeis ready for that purpofe. It was alio taken into confideration, whether it were not feafible to gather a fufficient force out of the forts, who in conjunftion with the Bra- zilians might attack fome place or other, from whence to provide ourfelves with farinha ; but to this it was objefted by the Majors Bayert and Piftoor, that the garri- fons of the forts could not be weakened by any detachment, without running a great hazard ; befides that it was a hard matter to pitch upon any place where there was any ftore 840 - nieuhoff's brazil. ftore of farinha, the enemy having either confumed, fpoiled, or carried it away before ; fo that we mufl expofe our men to an apparent danger, without a fure profpeft of in- terefl; ; for, fuppofmg we fhould be fuccefsful, the quantity that might be got, would not be fufficient to maintain our garrifons for any confiderable time. It was however agreed to take an exaft account of all the garrifons, to fee whether upon an occafion fomething might be undertaken for the fervice of the ftate. Accordingly thefe two majors, Bayert and Piftoor, having prefented a lift of thefe forces the next day to the council, it was concluded that no troops could be fpared out of the forts, except it were out of the Affagados, but they were but few in number. At the fame time it was refolved to fend Captain Niger with his company of Brazilians to Rio Grande, and the Omlandia and Greyhound yacht were ordered forthwith to fail to Itamarika, to tranfport the Brazilians to Rio Grande. The 30th of May the council, the admiral, and two majors, entered Into a fe- cond debate, whether it were poffible to attack the enemy, and in what place : againft which it was alledged, that their chiefeft force was at prefent in the Vergea ; but fuppofmg it was not, no farinha was to be got there, becaufe they were fupplied with it themfelves from far diftant places. That the farinha-fields neareft to the Receif were about St. Lawrence, at leaft five leagues from thence ; that the neareft farinha- fields to the fouth were about St. Antonio and Moribeca, where, by reafon of the flrength of the enemy and the great diftance from us, there was no probability of incompafling our defign ; and that the farinha-fields to the north were likewife at fuch a diftance from the fea-fide, as could not in any likelihood anfwer our expeftation. It was farther taken into confideration, whether fome forces might not be fpared in Itama- rika, but it was carried in the negative ; becaufe fince the Brazilians were ready to de- part for Rio Grande, it was not advifeable to expofe the reft of our troops there to a hazard. After ferious deliberation, what forces poffibly could be raifed out of the forts (their places being in the meanwhile to be fupplied by the inhabitants), it was found that the Aifagados could furnifti about feventy or eighty men, the Quinquan- gular fort and Maurice's Town, the fame number, and that of St. Antonio Vaez about fifty. But, confidering that the city-militia of the Receif confifted only of fix companies of feventy or at the moft eighty men each, and that they were obliged to be upon the guard every night there (the place being without a garrifon), if a con- fiderable number of them fliould be employed in the forts, this muft needs expofe the capital place, which the enemy chiefly aimed at, to an imminent danger. The fea- men being not above two hundred and fifty in all, could likewife not be employed in that fervice, unlefs we could leave our ftiips quite unmanned and ufelefs. So that after many arguments on both fides, it was agreed to chufe the fecureft way, and ac- cording to the orders of the council of Nineteen in Holland, to expeft the fuccours from thence with patience, and in the meanwhile to provide for the fecurity of our forts. The fame day the council received letters from Mr. Walbeck, that fome of the Bra- zilians of Itamarika had deferted, a rumour being fpread among them, that we intended to leave them to the mercy of the Portuguefe, which had put all the reft into a great confternation, but that Mr. Dortmund had convinced them to the contrary. Mr. Wal- beck and Dortmund had in the meanwhile represented to the Brazilians, that they be- ing many in number, and confequently vei7 ill provided for at this junfture, whether ii were not beft for them to go for fome time to Rio Grande. They were at firft averfe to his propofals, for fear of being deferted by us, neverthelefs the urgent necefiity of providing for their fuftenance, and to Ihew their compliance with the government's orders, kieuhoff's brazil. 841 orders, were fo reconciled with them, as to refolve to go to Rio Grande, provided they might be furniflied with convenient tranfport-lhips, proviiions, and feme ammunition for their defence, and fifty men of regular troops. Mr, Dortmund having again foli- cited for provifions, fonie were fent (fufficient for fourteen days) immediately, with fome gun-powder, bullets, and other ammunition. Accordingly above one thoufand two hundred Brazilians, mofl: women and children, whofe hufbands and fathers had been flain in our fervlce, embarked aboard the Omlandia and fome yachts, a pound of fait cod-fifh being allowed to each for the whole voyage without bread. At their arrival in Rio Grande they were fo emaciated by famine, that they appeared more like dead carcafes than living bodies, and laid hold of every thing they could meet with to fatisfy their greedy ftomach, fo that in a little time they con- fumed all the farinha that was left there. Mr. Linge, by his letters from the '25th of June, fent advice to the council, that there appeared no enemy at that time in Parayba, but that ten Tapoyers, vaflals of king John Duwy, being come into Rio Grande, had fhewn themfelves extremely diflatisfied at the murder of Jacob Rabbi, whereupon it was refolved to reconcile that king to our inte- reft by the following prefents : Two hundred gilders in ready money. One thoufand ells of Ofnaburg linen-cloth. ■One hundred gallons of Spanifh wine. Two cafks of brandy. Forty gallons of oil, and a barrel with powdered beef. The Brazilians in garrifon in the fort the Bruin, the Ouinquangular, and fome other forts, being diflatisfied at their being detained there for eight months laft part, petitioned the council the i sth of June, to be fent back into Rio Grande. The opinion of the two majors being aiked thereupon, they advifed, that confidering they did no extraordinary fervice there, they might well be fpared ; fo that it was re- folved the 14th of June in council, to pay them their arrears, and to fend them back to Parayba and Rio Grande, to inhabit their villages as before. "In the Ouinquangular fort, the company of Immanuel Barros was ordered to keep guard infbead of the Brazilians, who were commanded to depart the ccth of June. The I ith, 1 2th, 13th, and 14th of June, the enemy ftiot la the night-time very fiercely againft the fort de Aliagados, a redoubt called Kirk, and the houfe Boavifta. The 15th of June it was propofed to the council by Admiral Lichthart, and the two majors, Bayert and Piftoor, to beat up the enemy's quarters in the houfe of Immanuel Kavalkanti, and in the Baretta, with the following troops : The company of Captain Killian Taylor, forty men. The company of Captain Nicholas Nicholfon, of feventy men, which were to be joined by Captain de Niger with thirty men out of the fort Frederick, with Lieutenant Mos from the fort Erneftus with ten men, and Lieutenant Katnar from the fort Prince William with twenty men. In ail two hundred men. Ahout one hundred volunteers were fuppofed to be raifed from among tlie citizens, under the Colonel Walbeck ; and Immanuel Baros with his negroes, confifting in fifty men, thefe joined with the other two hundred, would make up a body of three hundred and fifty men, to be commanded in chief by Major Piftoor, and to be conduced by fea by Admiral Lichthart to their landing-place, viz. the regular troops to the fouth of the Baretta, and the negroes upon the ifiand on the north-fide, from whence they might break through the marfnes to the Aftagados, and fo further to the houfe crofs the ■V.OL. XIV. 5 P ^i^'^f 842 nieuhoff's brazil. river, where they were to make a falfe attack, whilfl: the troops landed at the Baretta aflaulted them from before ; the admiral, with his tranfport velfels, to lay ready all this while to receive them, and to fecure their retreat upon all occafions. This propofition being approved of by the council, partly to animate our foldiers, partly to get at leatl fome provifions for the fick, it was refolved to be put in execution the next day, but the wind proving contrary, and afterwards the tides being unfeafonable for the conve- nient landing of our men, this projedl was laid afide, efpecially when inftead of one hundred volunteers fcarce twenty-five offered themfelves for this fervice, notwithftanding the council gave them all imagin^^ble encouragement, by promifing them to receive the fame treatment as the other fervants of the company had, in cafe they fhould be wound- ed or come to fome other misfortune. In the meanwhile, the enemy having been informed by fome of our deferters, that by the departure of the Brazilians from Itamarika the garrifons there were much weak- ened, they thought fit to lay hold of this opportunity, to land fuch a force there, as fhould be beyond our power to drive from thence. The 15th of June, with the break of day, they furprized our fpy-fliip there, called the Sprew, with feveral barks and boats at the entrance called Paflbos (Markers); they got three prifoners, the reft efcaping with the lofs of two of their comrades killed. The fhip before Tapafima was fet on fire by our own people, leaving the galiot that lay hard by, to the enemy, after they had taken out all her men, who went aboard the yacht called the Golden-Doe, lying before the north entrance. They landed with about two thoufand men in flialops and other tranfport veffels, and Andrew Vidal and John Ferdinand Vieira wrote the fame night the following letter to Mr. Dortmund, com- mander-in-chief of Itamarika, which they fent by a boy they had taken prifoner in the Sprew : Their Letter to Mr. Dortmund, " Moft honourable and moft brave, " You are doubtlefs not unacquainted with the refolution of the inhabitants of this country to retrieve their former liberty ; to effeft which they neither want power nor any other means ; but their chief aim being to encompafs their defign without effufion of blood, we thought fit to let you know that we are ready to attack you in this ifland with all our forces, unlefs you will prevent it by a treaty. For being fenfible that you are paffed all hopes of relief, we were willing to advife you to treat with us, according to the cuftom of war ufed in fuch cafes ; that in cafe hereafter things fhould fall out contrary to our expectation, by the fury of the conquering fword, you may not lay the fault thereof at our doors ; for which reafon it is, that we offer to you and the reft of the commanders there, all their arrears due to them from the company. Whereupon we expeft your anfwer to-morrow. " From our head quarter, June 15, 1646. Andrew Vidal de Negreiros. John Fehnandes Vieira." The 17th of June the council received advice from Mr. Dortmund of their landing, defiring prompt fuccours, without which he would not be in a condition to maintain the ifland againft them. . It was therefore taken into debate, whether it were pofFible for us o bri ng together fuch a force, as without much hazard might be able to force the ene- tmy from thence ; but it was carried in the negative. I o For nieuhoff's brazil. 843 For it was alledged, that without manifeft danger not above two hundred foldiers could be taken out of the forts of the Receif, which number was not fufficient to attack the enemy, who had already intrenched himfelf there, with hopes of fuccefs : and, con- fidering that thefe forces muft be tranfported thither by fea, we wanted Ihips (there be- ing at that time not above two barks at the Receif) both to convey them thither, and to cut off the communication with the continent to the enemy. Befides, that at leaft fourteen days provifions were required for this expedition, in cafe the enemy fhould (land his ground, which at this junfture was not to be done, unlefs we would leave the magazines of the Receif quite empty ; there being then no poffibility of attempting its rehef. The next thing under confideration was, whether the intrenchments on the hill might be defended or not ? Againft the maintaining of it was objeded, that without frefli fupplies of provifions this fort could not hold out a week, efpecially fmce the ene- my, by cutting off the pipes of the fpring that furnilhed them with frefh water, would foon put them under a neceflity of coming to furrender ; when it was evident, that they might poll themfelves betwixt the fort of Orange and this hill, and confequently prevent their receiving any fupplies from thence. Befides, that the hill, being of a confiderable compafs, was the more difficult to be maintained by our forces, the fort itfelf being irregular, and but flightly fortified on that fide, efpecially where the old church-wall, making up part of the curtain, would not be proof againft the enemy's cannon, and confequently expofe the whole fort, with the garrifon, to the mercy of the enemy : fo that it being beyond all difpute in the enemy's power to cut off all communication with the fort Orange, it was unanimoufly refolved and ordered to leave the faid intrenchments, and to retire with the garrifon, and what provifions and ammunition they had, into the fort Orange, before their retreat was flopped by the enemy's troops ; it being paft all doubt, that in cafe they could maintain themfelves in that fort, they could at all times, if they were mafters of the field, recover the hill and the whole ifland. The council were the more forward in coming to this refolution, becaufe they had received certain information, that the enemy, who knew the importance of the fort Orange, had gained fome of the gunners and volunteers of the fort by prefents, who had engaged to aflign them a place where it was eafieft to be attacked, whereabouts they were to charge the cannon with gun-powder only, to facilitate their attack. Two of the gunners were hanged the 23d of June for this treachery ; the reft made their efcape to the enemy. For the better prefervation therefore of this fort, our people left the entrenchments upon the hill the 2jft of June, where the enemy pofted a ftrong body of their troops immediately after. The council likewife ordered the yacht the Heemftede to cruize in conjunftion with the Golden-Doe, before the north entrance of the ifland, to keep open free communication for us with our garrifon, and to pre- vent the enemy from receiving any fuccours that way ; and at the fame time fome provifions were fent thither for the ufe of the garrifon. But whilft things were thus tranfafting vdth various fortune, though for the moft part to our difadvantage, and the fo long expected fuccours from Holland not arriv- ing, the want of neceflaries encreafed more and more every day in the Receif to fuch a degree, that whatever was found fit for fuftenance, either in the public magazines, or with private perfons, was applied to the common ufe, which however amounting to no more than one pound of bread a- week for each fingle perfon, many died tor hunger ; their legs beginning to fw ell firft, which was the fore-runner of certain death ; cats and dogs, of which we had great quantities, were looked upon as dainties at that time ; and you might fee the negroes digging the half-rotten bones of dead horfes out 5 P 2 of 844 nieuhoff's brazil. of the ground, and to gnaw them with incredible eagernefs ; neither was the want of frcfh water lefs infupportable, by reafon of the heat of the climate, and the conftant ufe ot fait meats, all fprings that were dug being brackifh. The poor flaves, who had the leaft fliare of what was left, looked fo ghaftly and wild, with their eyes and jaws funk, as appeared terrible to tiie mofl undaunted of men. At lafl: (notwithftanding all the care taken by the council) things came to that pafs, that the allowance of one pound of bread per week was fain to be taken away from the inhabitants, and allotted the foldiers ; who, by the enticements of the Portuguefe beginning to defert apace, had two pounds of bread allowed them, as long as there was any left ; but when all- was fpent, and no remedy was to be found againfl this lingering evil, it was propofed by the council, and unanimoufly refolved, rather to die bravely than ftarve, and to fight their way through the enemy. The foldiers were to lead the ran, the women, children, fick, and other unable people to keep in the middle, and the members of the great council, with the inhabitants, to defend the rear. The Jews were above all the reft in a defperate condition, and therefore refolved rather to die with fword in hand than be burnt alive, which is their doom in Portugal. But when we were juft reduced to the laft gafp, ail horfes, cats, dogs, and rats being confumed, and a few quarterns of farinha fold at the rate of betwixt eighty or ninety gilders per quartern, which howevet could not fuflice for above two days longer, on the 2 2d of June (a day never to be forgotten) we faw two veffels with Dutch colours making all the fail they could towards the Receif ; they had no fooner caft their anchors, and given us the fignal by the difcharge of three guns each, that they came from Holland, but you might have read in all our faces the fuddenjoy v.e con- ceived at this relief in our laft extremity ; there was nobody that could ftand upon his legs for want of bread, but did crawl to the harbour, where you might hear the cries of the people weeping for joy at a great diftance. Thefe two iliips, called the Falcon and Elizabeth, were freighted for the chamber of Amfterdam, and had left the Texel the 26th of April ; they brought us the welcome news, that we might hourly expeft the whole convoy. The captain of the Elizabeth told me himfelf, that having^ a very fair v/ind one day, he faid to his crew, " I am fure they are in great extremity at the Receif, God fend us fair wind and weather to relieve them in time," which happened thus accordingly. The captains were each prefented with a gold medal, with- the following irdcription ; " The Falcon and Elizabeth did relieve the Receif." The 23d of June, Mr. Bas, a member of the council, was fent to Itamarika, to affift' in the defence of the fort ^ by his letters of the 28th he advifed that the enemy continued ftill in his poll on the hill, and that he had fent abroad fome fpies to get intelligence. The 7th of July, the faid Mr. Bas returned to the Receif with the com- panies commanded by Captain Bluecock and Conrad Held, leaving the two companies' of Reinard Sikkema and Dignus Byfterman there in garrifon. The enemy had fome days before, after having blown up the fort on the hill, and fet fire to their camp,, left the ifland, carrying along with them all the cannon, and among them tv/o brafs ones. For when they faw that we were reinforced with feveral fhips from Plolland, they did not think fit to abide there till we fhould ftop their pailage back by our veffels ; neither were they infenfible, that without being mafters of the fort Orange, tliey could not promife themfelves the pofleffion of the ifland, the fouth entrance being commanded by the faid fort, and the north paflage by our yachts. The 29th of June, the council received advice from our head quarter at the houfe of John Leftan, in Rio Grande, that two fons of king John Duwy, with twenty-three Tapoyers, were fent thither by their father, to allure our people of his good inclination and NIEUirOFF's BRAZIt. S45 and fervice ; but they refufed to come into the fort Keulen before they had fpoken with Rudolph Baro, who had been fent for upon that account. About this time feveral merchants fet out fome privateers, but as this could not be done without great charge, and there were but few fiiips at fea of the Portuguefe, this turned to no great account, and confequently continued not long- A very odd accident happened to me much at tlie fame time ; for fome of the labourers who were employed to unload a veiTel belonging to the company, were got fo drunk, that they had killed a man, and hurt feveral others, by letting a pipe of wine fall upon them ; I went thither to prevent any further diforder, but was no fooner entered the fhip, when on a fudden I found the filver galoons upon my coat turn black, and myfelf bereaved of my fight, which however I recovered by degrees in a few days after, the caufe of which I attributed to the flrong exhalations of the wine, that had been clofed up for a confiderable time before. Much about the fame time a difference arofe betwixt the officers of the army and the city-militia, about the chief command of the head guard in the Receif, which the city-officers laid claim to. But to return to our fo long expedted fuccours. The reiterated letters from the council of the Dutch Brazil to the States-General, and the diredfors of our company, wherein»they prefented their dangerous condition to them, had had fflch an influence upon the firft, that they advifed the diredlors of the company to fend us a reinforcement of five or fix thoufand men, and a good fleet ; for which purpofe they fent them twenty-five companies of their regular troops, and gave leave for the raifing as many more, as in all amounted to four thoufand land foldiers, befides feamen and volunteers. This fleet, confiding of a good number of brave fhips, was ready to fail in November 1 645, but by reafon of a fudden and hard frofl:, were detained in the road of Ulieffingen, till February 1 646. One Mr. Bankert, admiral of Zealand, had the chief command of this fleet, and at the fame time^the following five gentlemen, who were appointed members of the great council of the Dutch Brazil, and were to relieve the old ones, were fent to their fl:ations there ; to wit, Walter Schonenburgh prefident, Michael van Goch pcnfionary of Ulieflingen, Simon van Beaumont fifcal of the city of Dort, Henry Hacks, and Mr. Trowens, two great merchants of Amflierdam, and Mr. Heremite a lawyer of Dort, their fecretary. One Sigifmund Schoppe, formerly under Count Maurice, and who had commanded the land forces of Dutch Brazil, was now fent in the quality of commander-in-chief of thefe forces ; he was a mofl experienced captain, and who always kept a fl;ricl: difcipline among the foldiers. Never did any fleet fent from Holland to Brazil meet with fo many unfortunate accidents as this, during the fix months they were at fea. For within two days aftef they had left the Dutch coaft, they were forced to caft anchor in the Downs oppofite to Newport, where they loft two of their fhips by ftrefs of weather. After a ftay of three days, the winds being fomewhat allayed, the fquadron under Mr. Van Goch fet fail again, but was in two days after again forced into St. Helen's in the ifle of Wight j three days before their arrival, a rich Dutch fliip, valued at two millions of livres, then lately come from Brazil, was loft among the rocks, fo that of three hundred perfons no more than thirty were faved. Here they were detained by foul weather and contrary winds feven weeks, when another Dutch ffiip coming from Brazil chanced to caft anchor near them, and told them, that their countrymen in the Receif were drove to the laft extremity ; nay, that perhaps the place was furrendered by this time, they having no more than two months provifions left at the time of his departure. Hereupon it was refolved to continue their voyage with the whole fleet, notwithftaading the winds were- 846 NIEUHOFP'S BRAZIL. were againft them, but on the coaft near Portland were again overtaken by a violent florm, in which they faw a Scotch fhip with two hundred perfons in her perifli. The fleet under Mr. Van Goch came with much ado to an anchor behind a rock, where they ftayed till the fiercenefs of the tempeft being allayed, they profecuted their voyage. But fcarce were they got through the channel, jufl; as they were entering the Spanifli fea, but a difference arofe betwixt Mr. Van Goch and Mr. Beaumont about the flag, the Zealanders (in a council of war held for that purpofe) allotting the precedency to Mr. Van Goch ; whereas the Hollanders pretended the fame to belong to Mr. Beau- mont ; but Mr. Van Goch perfifl:ing notwithftanding to claim the precedency, Mr. Beaumont gave a fignal to the Holland fliips to follow him, and fo bid adieu to Mr. Van Goch, who after a troublefome and tedious voyage, in which he lofl many of his men by ficknefs, and efpecially the fcurvy, he arrived the 14th of July with his fhip in the road of the Receif, being the firfl of the five new lords of the council that arrived in the Dutch Brazil. The 31ft of July 1646, the fliip the Bluecock, and the Ulieflingen of Zealand, came likewife to an anchor there ; in the firfl came Mr. Trowens, and in the laft Golonel SigLfmund Schoppe. The 6th of Auguft the faid colonel gave an account to the members of the council how, purfuant to their orders, he was advanced with four hundred and fifty men as far as the fort of Olinda, to difcover the countenance of the enemy, and to take fome pri- foners ; that they had made a fliew of attacking us, but after fome flight ikirmiflies re- tired, and with a body of their troops marched through Bracer de St. Jago, to cut ofl^ our retreat ; but our people forced them to retreat again with the lofs of feveral of their men killed and wounded ; whereas we had but one wounded during the whole aftion, befides Colonel Schoppe himfelf, who received a flight hurt on his leg. The 8th of Augull the Arms of Dort, and in it Mr. Beaumont, arrived before the Receif; he was conduced the next day with all imaginable refpeft to the Receif. The 1 2th, late in the evening, Mr. Walter Schonenbergh, prefident of the new council, and Henry Hacks, arrived in a bark from the north in the Receif, where they were received by all the citizens and foldiers in arms ; they had been forced to leave their fliip, called the Middleburgh, before the north entrance of Itamarika, as likewife the Dolphin, laden with provifions on account of the chamber of Zealand, both which were feen the 30th of July, oft' Olinda ; but being forced back by contrary winds, the lafl: of thefe two did not come to an anchor near the Receif till the 13th of Augufl:. The fame day a certain negro deferter coming to the Receif brought information that the enemy intended to ere6l a fort on the pafs of the Baretta, to prevent our excurfions into the open country ; whereupon it was refolved, with unanimous confent of Mr. Scho- nenbergh and the whole council, as likewife with the approbation of Colonel Schoppe and Admiral Lichthart, to prevent the enemy's defign by fortifying and maintaining the faid pafs, as being the only inlet we had left for the recovery of the whole Dutch Brazil, all the other pafles being fo ftrongly fortified by the enemy, as not to be at- tempted without great hazard. Accordingly the faid Colonel Schoppe marched the fame night with all the forces he could bring together, ordering the boats laden with materials for the intended fortifica- tions, to follow him the next tide. The colonel at his arrival having foon chafed the enemy from thence, and poflTefled himfelf of the houfe of the Baretta, fent for imme- diate orders to the council, to know whether he Ihc-uld continue in that port all night ; who, with the approbation of the nev\ prefident Schonenbergh, difpatched Mr, Bulle- fliraet thither immediately to take a view of it, and to make his report accordingly ; he returned nieuhoff's brazil. 847 returned the 14th againft night, and reported to the council that he had found the work there very far advanced already, and the fortifications in fuch a flate, that thviy would foon be in a pofture of defence againft any attempts from the enemy. The 13th of Auguft Rudolph Baro, who, as we told you, was fent with fome pre- fents to John Duwy, king of the Tapoyers, brought a letter from the faid king, dat-'d the ift of July, to the council, wherein he thanked them for the prefents, and defired they would be pleafed to fend him fome iron weapons, he being then in war with the Pojukas, and that, after he had humbled them, he would march with all his forces againft the Portuguefe. By this time the prefident, Walter Schonenbergh, and the other members of the new great council, being arrived at the Receif, and having delivered their commiffions from Their High and Mi^htinefles, the States-General, His Highnefs the Prince of Orange, and the council of Nineteen, conftituting them joint-governos of the Dutch Brazil, the late members of the faid council ; to wit, Henry Hamel, Bulleftraet, and Peter Bas, ordered all the colleges and other perfons of note to be called together, to be prefent at the inftdlment of the future lords of the council. Accordingly all the members of the court of juftice, and of the finances, next the magiftrates and commiffaries of Maurice's Town, then the minifters and church council, together with the fea and land officers, the heads of the Jews, and laft of all the fadtors and bookkeepers of the company, being aflembled, Mr. "Walbeck told them, in the name of the council, that Mr. Henry Hamel, Mr. Bulleftraet, and Peter Bas, had called them together, to lay down in their prefence the reins of the government, and to fur- render the fame to Mr. Schonenbergh, and the reft of the lords appointed by Their High and MightinefTes, by His Highnefs the Prince of Orange, and the council of Nine- teen, for the fupreme management of the government of the Dutch Brazil ; returning them their hearty thanks for the fervices each in his refpeftive ftation had done to the government, and for their conftant fidelity durmg thefe inteftine commotions, exhorting them to perfevere in the fame obedience to the new council ; whereupon the new prefi- dent and otbe'- members having received the congratulations, firft of the old council, and then of the other colleges, they from thenceforward tranfafted every thing by their own authority, though they, in all affairs of moment, took the advice of the faid mem- bers of the old council, during their ftay in Brazil ; for which purpofe they defired them, the 20th of Auguft, to appear every day at eight o'clock at their afTembly, and to afliit ihem with their counfel for the better management of the affairs of the company. The 19th of Auguft Mr. Trowens died late at night. The ;d of Septtniber was appointed for a general mufter of all the forces in garrifon in the forts near the Receif. Mr. Heck and Commiffary Zweers were ordered to take a review of thoi^ \a the fort Erneftus, Wardenburgh, and Boavifta ; Mr. Beaumont and Moucheroi; in the fort of Anthony Vaez and Maurice's Town ; Mr. Van Goch, Hamel, and Aldrich, at the Receif, and of thofe belonging to the artillery ; Mr. Raets- field and Crowranger, at the Baretra and adjacent quarters ; Mr. Volbergin and Com- miffary Stricht, in the forts William and Frederick-Henry ; Mr. Bulleftraet and De Witt, in the fort Bruin, and the land and fea fort. The 4th of September, a pardon being agreed upon by joint confent of the old and new council, the fame was, the 6th, fent by a drummer to the enemy, with a letter to the Portuguefe commanders frcm loc Rahia, defiring them to withdraw their forces. The loth of September being ;" '^"'.ri'M for a review of the militia of the Receif and Maurice's Town, the fame was found to confift of 700 men ; they received the thanks of 848 nieuhoff's brazil. of the old council for their faithful fervices during the prefent intefliine •n'ar, and then returned their thanks to them for the prudent management of the government. The 13th of September, the letters written by the Portuguefe colonel the nth of September, in anfwer to ours of the 6th, were read in the great council, filled with un- truths and ficlions of their own invention. They pretended that they were prevented by the inhabitants from retiring to the Bahia ; befides, that they wanted tranfport veffels, their fhips being detained in the bay of Tamandare, and that they muft exped; the King's orders for that purpofe. They took alfo a great deal of pains to magnify their ftrength. The 12th and 1 3th of September feveral letters were difperfed abroad by the Portuguefe, direSed to Juftice Daems, to Matthew Bek, Bahhafar de Fonfeca, Duarte Sarayva, Cafpar Francis de Cofta, being all merchants, and written by John Fernandes Vieira, in which they again exaggerated their awn number, and fpoke very defpicably of ours, threatening that, in cafe they fhould be forced to quit the country, they would deftroy all with fire and fword, as they had already done in fome parts of Paraybz. The contents of thefe let- ters were as follows : A Letter from Tic'ira toforne Merchants in the Dutch Brazil. *' Experience has, without queftion, convinced you fufficiently of the reafons that moved us to undertake -this war, and the fuccefs we have met with is an ample teftimo- ny that God was pleafed to inflicl: this punilhment upon our enemies for the many out- rages committed againft the inhabitants of this countr^^ This is, however, in a great meafure to be attributed to the general confent of the faid inhabitants, who having now forced themfelves from the tyrannical yoke of their oppreffors, ought to expect from me, who, though unworthy, am appointed the chief manager of this war, to be backed in fo brave a refolution. 1 would not have you be ignorant of our ftrength, which, in comparifon of yours, exceeds all that can be faid upon that head ; I will only tell you that, as by our quitting the captainfhips of Parayba and Goyana, we are confiderably increafed in number ; fo it is moil; evident from thence that the inhabitants chofe rather to lofe their pofleflions than to endure any longer the indignities that were put upon them, which was the true caufe of their infurrection, and not, as it is given out among you, becaufe they were unable to fatisfy their creditors ; becaufe they left more than vhat would have paid their debts. But if it fhould happen fo, that the faid inhabitants fhould not be able to maintain themfelves by force of arms, they are refolved to lay all the other captainfhips defolate in the fame manner. " Having, therefore, well weighed the reafons' which feem to promife us a goodifTue of this war, I thought myfelf obliged, as a friend, to advife you, that that party is baclied by reafon, and the unanimous refolution of many thoufands ; for, I can affiire you, we are at leafl fourteen thoufand ftrong, befides the negroes and Tapoyers, dif- perfed in feveral places, from Rio Grande as far as Rio St. Francifco. Kamaron com- mands fix hundred mufqueteers, Henry Dias eight hundred negroes, two hundred Minos, and feven hundred Tapoyers ; and thofe of the Sertan are at our devotion, whenever we are pleafed to call for them ; but, above all the reil, we have God on our fide. We are not ignorant, that before the arrival of Mr. Sigifmund Schoppe, your whole force confifled not in above fix hundred men, and that the fuccours come along with him do not amount to above one thoufand two hundred more ; moft of which are boys, and the reft either dead or fick. You fee I am well acquainted with your ftrength, having killed and taken prifoners about two thoufand fix hundred of your 8 bed nieuhoff's brazil. 849 befl: foldiers, and five hundred Brazilians, befides the wounded that were carried to the Receif J when our troops had no other arms than pointed flicks and clubs. Thefe are bleflings from heaven, for if we are able to perform thefe things without powder and ball, what may not be expefted from our forces, nov/ they are itrengthened with good troops, and provided with fufficient arms and ammunition ? All which I confirm to you upon my word, to be nothing but the real truth ; and, had it not been in re- ipect of thofe colonels fent from the Bahia, and of His Majcfly of Portugal, I had by this tiiiie been malter of the Receif, or fome of the forts, or at leall: 1 might have done much greater mifchief : but if matters are not brought to a happy coaclufion, I am refolved to att like a defperate man, and not leave any fugar-n-iills, cattle or negroes in the country, but will rather turn all to ruin and deftrudion, betore we v\ili be com- pelled to fubmit again to your obedience. " As thefe preients may ferve as a warning to you, fo I hope you, and the reft of the merchants, will not delay to enter with us into fuch articles of agreement, as may be moil conducing to the prefervation of your pofleflions ; for I would have you call to mind, that there are many ingenious (mills) reduced at prefent to fuch a ftate, as not to be likely to be in a condition to be ufed thefe ten years next to come. The Vergea is in no better condition than Parayba and Goyana, and the cattle (without which the mills cannot fubfift) deftroyed in mod places. " Colonel Sigifmund Schoppe, I fuppofe, pretends to keep the field againfl; us, as he did in the laft war, but he will find himfelf egregioufly miftaken, becaufe the in- habitants will not be of his fide ; for if I fliould hear of one that was, I would caufe him to be hanged immediately. You allege that we are valfals of the company, but when was ever any conquered nation treated thus as we were, worfe than the vilefl: flaves, of which you are fenfible as well as we ; fo that, being forced to break our chains, we do not owe you any further obedience. If we had not been in hopes of this oppor- tunity, we would long before have implored the affiftance of the King of Spain or France ; and if thofe had failed us, to have had recourfe to the Turks and Moors. I defire you not to throw away this letter, becaufe experience will convince you of the truth of it ; and that we fhall purfue the fame methods here as we have done in other places ; wherefore, I would have you not give credit to any body, except to thofe that come in perfon from thofe places ; I having told them nothing but the bare truth, which you will find in effeft thus : in the profecution of this war, I hope you will con- fider what is moft for your intereft, in which I am ready to ferve you ; for though your governors do not dired their letters to me, it is I that have the chief management of this war, and under my command ; the power of the colonels come from the Bahia ex- tending no farther than over thofe troops they have brought along with them. A Reyal debonjefus, September 11, 1646. " On the loth of this month, the before-mentioned colonels having fent an anfvver to a letter direfled to them from your council, by one of our captains, feveral infnaring queftions were afked him concerning the prefent war, which he, perhaps, not anfwer- ing according to their expe£lation, they replied more like drunken cowards than fol- diers ; if they will be pleafed to come out and tell me thefe things, I will try whether their fwords are as nimble as their tongues are, and teach them what refpecl is due to the meifengers of thofe perfons who have the fupreme command here. This I write to you at prefent, but fliall not fail in due time to make my words good by the fword, of which your people feel the daily efieds as often as they dare to come out of their forts. Pray be not deceived, for Brazil is not allotted to you ; not queftioning but that God will blefs our arms, and if we happen to die, we fliall lofe our lives in the VOL. xiT. 5 a defence 850 NIEUHOFf's BRAZIL. defence of our holy religion and liberty ; and all thofe that have refufed to accept of our offers will pay for it with the lofs of their lives, poffeflions, and debts. " A Reyal, Sept. 12, 1646. (Signed) John Fernandes Vieira." The 1 4th of September, a man of war, called the Ter Veer, equipped by the cham- ber of Zealand, (aboard of which was Colonel Hinderfon) arrived before the Receif, after a voyage of fourteen weeks. The 24th of September, the enemy caufed fome pamphlets to be difperfed, promifing, in very haughty terms, a general pardon, and a compofition of their debts, in cafe we would leave the ifland. The 27th of Septem- ber, Colonel Schoppe returned with fome troops from Goyana, by the way of Itama- rika ; I had not met with any enemy, but had found all the fugar-mills burnt in the firft place, but the fugar-reed and farinha fields in a pretty good condition ; we received afterwards further information, that the fugar-mills of Goyana were not quite burnt down. The 27th of Odlober, a conference was held betwixt the old council and Mr. Van Goch, unto whom they imparted their advice concerning feveral matters relating to the itate of the Dutch Brazil, and efpecially to the planting of the mandioka or farinha- roots, and the killing of cattle, which they advifed to be done with great circumfpec- tion, Brazil being not able to fubfifl: without a confiderable number of oxen, which were continually employed in carrying of fugar-reeds, wood, and other necelTaries, to the mills. For the planting of farinha-roots they propofed Itamarika, Rio Grande, and Parayba, which countries were thought fufficient to fupply their prefent occafions ; provided it were done before the feafon was elapfed. In the meanwhile. Colonel Schoppe having made feveral, but, for the mod part, un- fuccefsfuJ attempts, upon the enemy, our forces were thereby fo diminifhed, that we were not in condition to make head againll the Portuguefe near the Receif ; which made our council take a refolution to endeavour the recovery of Rio St. Francifco, the execution of which being committed to the management ot Colonel Hinderfon, proved more fortunate for us, he meeting with little refiltance thereabout. Accordingly, the 24th of Oftober, the following fliips, Count Eano admiral, Loanda vice-admiral, the Arms of Dort rear-admiral, the Bluecock, the Watchful Dog, the Greyhound, Eagle, the Star, Heemftede, and the Flight, with eight barks, fet fail under the command of Admiral Lichthart and Colonel Hinderfon to the fouth. The 1 7th of November the council received advice, that our troops under Colonel Hinderfon were fafely landed at Korafippa, and, marching from thence to Rio St. Francifco and the fort St. Maurice, had met with no oppofition from the enemy, who had begun to rafe the faid fort. That they had been feconded by the fraall veflels, which had followed them up the river, which our forces had pafTed, and were marched to Seregippe del Rey, having left fome behind to repair the fort ; and that four Portuguefe had requefled their par- don, which was promifed them. Whilft our forces were employed thereabouts, I was ordered thither to take care of the neceffary provifions (of which there was great plenty) for our troops ; having accordingly caufed my cargo to be embarked aboard a fliip called the Brownfifh, Francis Frantz mailer. I fet fail the 24th of November. We were carried with a brilk gale as far as the mountains, called by our people the Saddle-hills, from their fhape, the coaft all there- abouts being white fand downs. About half an hour after fun-fet, we faw ourfelves off the bay of Tamandare, and from thence continued our courfe with a fair wind, which in two days after brought us happily to the entrance of that great river, which I is 85' is fo broad at the beginning, that a fix-pounder can fcarce reach acrofs it ; it fells with a very foft current into the fea, its waters being low in the winter, but increafe in the fum- mer, perhaps by reafon of the fnows that are melted by the heat of the fun. About fifty leagues from its mouth is a great cataraft or waterfall, furrounded by a great many iflands ; the fea at its entrance meeting in tempeftuous weather with the current, are fo boifterous, thatthey flrike terror into the ftoutefl mariners, and carry away great pieces of the continent along with them. We entered the faid river, but were forced to call anchor imme- diately after fun-fet, for want of an eaft wind to carry us higher up, which commonly begins to blow thereabout at three in the morning. The country appeared very plea- fant on both fides, and we faw abundance of wild beads near the river-fide, and feveral huts made of flraw. We were detained near twenty-four hours upon a fand-bank, which, after we had pafled, we came at laft to the village called Penedos, fituate upon a high hill ; here we landed with our boats, and found a few houfes which were rebuilt by our people, the reft being burnt by the enemy before their flight. In the fort was formerly, in the time of the Portuguefe, a church, which we turned into a magazine ; it was furrounded with a goodly wall, the river pafllng by it on the north fide, where the hill is very fteep. The 30th of November Admiral Lichthart was feized with a fudden and violent illnefs, occafioned by his drinking too much cold water after he had over-heated himfelf before ; he was carried into a boat, with three foldiers under the command of an officer, lower down the river, but foon after loft his fenfes, and in my prefence expired. The next day his corpfe being put in a coffin was carried aboard the Golden Star, being con- duced by the chief officers there prefent, and four companies of foldiers, to the river- fide, who gave three falvoes with their mufkets, as did the cannon from the fort and Ihips, in order to his interment at the Receif. Towards evening, as I was going aboard our ftiip, the boat overturned by the fwift- nefs of the current, and, had I not been a good fwimmer, I had infallibly been drowned ; the mafter threw out a great cable over-board, by the help of which, and God's mercy, I got fafely into the ftiip. The foldiers in the meanwhile fcoured the country, and brought feven hundred oxen, (of which there was plenty,) and three hundred calves, into our quar- ters, having been at pafture in one of the adjacent illands of the river, under the guard of fome foldiers ; they were not extraordinary fat, but tolerable good meat. The fol- diers' huts were for the moft part planted on the north fide of the hill, which being compofed of branches and leaves of trees, took fire accidentally the 3d of December, with fuch fury, that in a quarter of an hour the whole quarter was in a flame, not- withftanding that the alarm was given immediately, by the beating of drums and the founding of trumpets ; fome foldiers that were then fwimming in the river, loft all their cloaths by this accident. It was well it happened by day ; for if it had been in the night it would have put us under a great confternation, it being generally reported that it had been done by treachery. There was at that time a plentiful crop of tobacco upon the circumjacent fields, but was not quite fit for reaping, which muft be done at a certain feafon, before the low grounds overflowed. The colonel defired me to provide thofe who had loft all, with new cloaths, and to deduA it out of their pay ; but I told him that I being only a faftor, could not do it without fpecial order from the council, fome having but little pay due to them. The 25th of December we received intelligence that the enemy began to appear in a confiderable body, whereupon the companies of Captains Coufin, Schut, Gyfeling, La Montayne, and of a Brazilian captain, called Tomee, were fent 5 Q 2 in 853 xieuhoff's brazil. . in quefl of them, with orders to fet their ftables on fire, and bring the cattle to our quarters. The next following Monday, word was brought us, that cur troops were fo narrowly enclofed by the enemy, that it was feared fcarce one of them would efcape with life. Whilfl we were in a great confternation, not knowing what refolu- tion 10 take, a Brazilian brought us the unwelcome news, that our whole body was routed and difperfed, and Captains Schut, Coufin, and La Montayne, killed upon the fpot. He had fcarce finifhed his doleful relation before a German foldier, who had efcaped the fight, by his bleeding wounds and his words gave us a confirmation of what had been told us before, with this addition, that Captain Gyfeling's lieutenant, La Montayne's enfign, and one Kilmet, belonging to Captain Schut, had fought their way through the enemy, with about thirty foldiers, and would foon be here. This milhap was chiefly attributed to the fool-hardinefs of our troops, who contra'ry to Colonel Hinderfon's command, having at once difcharged all their mufquets againfl: the enemy, fell in pell-mell, without any regular order, with fword in hand upon the enemy, which the enemy perceiving, retreated back and drew them into an ambufii. Towards night we faw feveral foldiers miferably wounded with darts come to our quarters, fome who had thrown away their arms, were forced to call: lots for their lives, the misfortune of which fell upon a Dutchman and a Brazilian, who being tied to a {take to be fhot to death, were however pardoned by the colonel. Captain Gyfeling's lieutenant, who came without his arms to the fort, was fent immediately to the Receif, where his fword was broke over his head, and he declared incapable of ferving the company for the future, notwithftanding he had done them faithful fervice for feven years laft part. By this time I was fent for to the Receif, fo that after having taken my leave of the colonel and iVIr. Dames, I embarked on board the Bat the 1 6th of December, and we were the fame evening with a fair wind and ftreara carried to the mouth of the river. It bemg a fine moon-light night we catched abundance of Zaggers, as we call them, a fifh of a very good tafle, and continued our courfe with a briik gaJe : not far from the river's mouth we met with four of our (hips, who told us they were to fetch provifions, but in cafe they could not, were to return forthwith to the Receif. The i8th, we advanced but little, the fliips being not out of fight of us, near the river's mouth, but did catch more fifh than we were able to eat. The 20th we were likewife becalmed, and we perceived the moon to be half eclipfed for the fpace of two hours. The next following day we failed fo near to St. Antonio, that we could fee them walking along the fea-fhore. Towards night we difcovered Porto Calvo, about thirty leagues from Rio St. Francifco. We were often becalmed, but catched abundance of king's-fifh and cods, and faw fires in many places along the coafl. The 24th of December we came fo near to the cape of St. Auflin that we difcovered five fliips and feven row- barges in the harbour ; we might have reached fome of thofe that went afhore with our fhot, had it not been for the fand-bank which hindered our nearer approach. About noon we came before the Receif, but it was fo foggy that we could fcarce dif- cover the water-fort ; neverthelefs we ventured in, and I got afliore immediately, with an intention to give an account of the flate of afi'airs in Rio St. Francifco to Mr. Schonenbergh, being conducted thither by Colonel Schoppe, who happened to meet me immediately after my landing. The 27th of Od:ober the enemy had laid two ambufhes in the way to the fort R-ince William, beyond the redoubt Kiik. They did not ftir till towards noon, when per- ceiving a company of our foldiers marching along the dike, they fired fo briflvly upon 8 them. nietthoff's brazil. ^ 8^^ them, that they killed eleven, wounded twelve, and took three prifoners; yet not without the lofs of fome on their fide. In the meanwhile the Tapoyers being much exafperated at the murder of the before- mentioned Jacob Rabbi their commander, had left our party ; the council did what they could to appeafe them, imprifoned and banifhed Garfman the author of it, and confifcated his eftate, notwithftanding which, the Tapoyers could not be prevailed upon to join with us as before. The 1 8th of November Mr. Van Goch entered into a conference with the members of the old council, whether it might not be feafible to embark what forces we were able to fpare on board our great fhips, and to attempt to make a powerful diverfion to the enemy by attacking him in fome place or other. But thofe of the old council having reprefented to him the danger of this enterprife if it fhould mifcarry, whilft they were blocked up in the Receif, the further debate thereof was deferred till the next day. It was then propofed, upon fecond thoughts, that in cafe we could bring all our forces together, fomething of moment might be undertaken without manifefl hazard, whereby to oblige the enemy to withdraw his forces from the Receif; but Mr. Van Goch apprehending no fmall danger in cafe we mifcarried, they came to no refolution for that time. It being found by experience that all our promifes of pardon had proved ineffeclual, it was propofed by Mr. Van Goch the firfl of December, whether it was not mofl expedient to give no quarter for the future ; unto which it was anfwered, that very feldom quarter had been given by us, and few prifoners were taken, and that the enemy had likewife killed mofl of our people that were fallen into their hands, but they judged it not convenient to refufe quarter to all without diflin£tion, which would induce fuch of the inhabitants as had remained quiet hitherto, to betake themfelves likewife to their arms. The 23d of November we laid an ambufh for the enemy near the fort of Affagados, who being by fome few fent out for that purpofe engaged in a fkirmifh, and purfuing our men with great eagernefs under the cannon of the fort, were fet upon by thofe lying in ambufti, who killed and wounded many of them. The 1 2th of Decem.ber the corps of the late Admiral Lichthart was interred, one company of the city-militia, and two of foldiers appearing in arms upon that occafion, gave him three falvoes with their mufquets. The 30th of December the Eagle yacht brought letters to the council, dated in Rio St. Franclfco the 4th of December, intimadng that in an ifland a little above the fort, one Colonel Rebellia was arrived with two hundred men from the Bahia ; and that they expeQed another reinforcement, as well from thence as from the Vergea ; that our people being fent higher up the river, had attacked fome of the enemy's troops, but they made their efcape to the other fide, leaving their arms and clothes be- hind them. The 2d of January 1 647, Colonel Schoppe, who had been with three hundred fuzi- leers in Goyana, returned to the Receif, giving an account that he had taken a view of all the rivers thereabouts, but met with no enemy. The 5 th of January the council received an account of the before-mentioned aftion in Rio St. Francifco, viz. five companies of our forces being fent to Orambou, to beat up the enemy's quarters, they met with a body of one hundred men, whom they attacked and put to flight ; but foon after our forces were attacked by a much ftronger body, who put them to the rout, with the lofs of one hundred and fifty men ; of our officers one captain was killed, and five taken prifoners, viz. Captains Samuel Lambart, 854 mieuhoff's brazil. Lambart, l.a Montagne, Gerrit Schut, Kilian Taylor, Daniel Koin, and three lieu- tenants, Joofl Koyman, Anthony Baliart, Jeronymus Hellemen, and one enfign. The 8th of January Mr. Van Goch, in the name of the new council, advifed with thofe of the old council, that it being refolved among them to fend for a confiderable number of their forces out of Parayba, in order to gather a body of troops for fome important defign, they defired to be informed concerning the prefent condition of the faid captainfhip ; and whether the city of Parayba and St. Andrew might be defended by a fmall garrifon ; whereupon thofe of the old council replied, that the town of Frederica had no frefli water but what they mull fetch at a mile's diflance, and con- fequently might be cut off by the enemy ; the fame thing might be done at the paflage leading to 'the river fide ; befides, that there was no fortifications belonging to the place but the monaftery, which was of no great confequence, and the Guarte Domaiges church, which had been fortified by the enemy in this war. As to St. Andrew it was no more than a fugar-mill, about four hours diftant from the city of Parayba, fituate upon the bank of the river ; that the communication of this place with the fort of St. Margaret might eafily be cut off" by the enemy, as being likewil'e about four leagues from thence, but it might be relieved from the water-fide, and yet not without great difficulty. Mr. Van Goch told them he would make his report thereof to the council. The 1 2th of January the council received advice, that the enemy were, with a flrong body of troops, entered Parayba, and advancing very near to the fugar-mill of St. Andrew's, had in the night-time furprifed fome Dutch and Brazilians, to the number of fifty men, women and children, of which they had killed fome, and ripped up the women's bellies. The 1 3th of January fome pamphlets were again difperfed by the enemy, containing in fubftance, that fince the inhabitants of the Receif were now beyond all hopes of further relief, it would be their fureft way to come to an accommodation ; for they were relolved to venture all before they would lay afide their defign ; but if all failed, they would deflroy the whole country, and fo leave it : they exhorted them not to be deceived by the infinuations of thofe who belonged to the company, and called them rebels ; they being no more to be ftyled fo than the Dutch ihemfelves, who had alferted their liberty againft Spain. The 17th of January four negroes belonging to one Ifaac de Raflier, who had been taken prifoners fome days before in Parayba, came over to us into the Receif, and brought advice, that the enemy, after having tarried but a little time in that captain- (hip, where they had killed five Dutchmen and fome Brazilians, were retired from thence. The 22d of January, early in the morning, the enemy began to batter the wooden fort near the Baretta, from a battery on the bank of the fouth fide of the rivef, which he continued the whole day, but defiftcd at night ; the garrifon having been reinforced about noon with five companies of foldiers, and fome provifions ; becaufe Mr. Hamel, one of the members of the old council, did reprefent to Mr. Van Goch, that though the fort itfelf was fo inconfiderable, as fcarce to be worth the trouble of defending it by a good garrifon, yet at this junfture, when the enemy had made his firlt attempt upon it, it would not be advifeable to defert it, for fear of giving encouragement to the enemy to attack the other forts ; but that on the contrary, as long as they did meet with a brave refinance here, they would not be fo forward to attempt others ; efpccially fince we had the conveniency of relieving them with boats at high water, with low tide by land by the way of the fand-ridge ; and that we might annoy the enemy nieuhoff's brazil. 855 enemy with tlie cannon from our yachts in his trenches, as we had done that day. About the fame time, a map was ordered to be made, (hewing the true fituation of the Receif, with the turnings and windings of the adjacent rivers and marflies, as far as the Baretta, for the better inftrudion of the council. The 24th of January in the morning, news was brought that the enemy had raifed the fiege of the fort of the Baretta the night before, and carried off all their cannon, being fenfible that as long as they could be annoyed from the fea-fide, and we be able to reinforce them daily with frefli troops, they could promife themfelves but flender fuccefs : but befides that, our people were to ftruggle againft the enemy and famine, they were frequently troubled with defertions ; many of our foldiers, nay, even to the ferjeants and other officers, who begun to defpair of our cafe, running over to the enemy, even at that time when the before-mentioned fliips, the Faulcon and Elizabeth, were in fight of the Receif. Now the members of the old council began to prepare in good earnefl: for their return to Holland, they had already, in December 1646, folicited Mr. Schonenbergh, prefident of the new council, to order fome fhips to be got ready to tranfport them thither, and the Ulyeffingen had been appointed tor that purpofe ; but the fame being not as yet returned from cruizing, they applied themfelves, the 25th of January 1647, to Mr. Van Goch, and told him, that whereas, according to their commiffion, one of them fliould return after the expiration of three years, they had continued in Brazil thefe fix years, Mr. Kodde having indeed been ordered to return about that time, but his place not being fupplied by another, he died before his departure : that they had, for thefe three years lad pafl:, folicited their return, and had two years ago received promifes of being relieved by others ; which had not been performed till within thefe few months, to the great prejudice of themfelves and their families : Mr. Van Goch promifed them to take effeftual care to have the fhips got ready, and to fend for the ihip the Ulyeffingen, in order to their return home. At the time of the acceffion of the new council to the government, and the departure of Henry Hamel, Adrian Bulle- ftraet, and Peter Bas, late members of the great council, the following forts remained ftill in the poffeffiion of our Weft-India company : The fort of Keulen, at the mouth of Rio Grande, provided with twenty-eight brafs and one iron cannon. The redoubt of St. Antonio, on the north Cde of the river Parayba, with fix iron pieces of cannon. The fort Reftanguets, in an ifland of the fame name within the river Parayba, with four brafs and five iron pieces of cannon. The fort Margaret, on the fouth fide of the river Parayba, with fourteen brafs and twenty-four iron pieces of cannon. The fort Orange, in the ifle of Itamarika, with fix brafs and feven iron pieces of cannon. Nofla Senhora de Conceptiano, an old battery upon the hill of Itamarika, with two brafs and eight iron pieces of cannon. The redoubt called Madame de Bruin, three iron pieces of cannon. The fort Wardenbrugh, alias the Triangular Fort, betwixt the Bruin and the Re- ceif ; the firft provided with four brafs and five iron pieces of cannon ; the laft vnth fourteen brafs guns. The Land Fort, aUas St. John's, with eleven iron guns. The Water Fort, at the mouth of the river of the Receif, with feven brafs guns. The B$6 nieuiioi'f's brazil. The fort Erneftus, with five brafs and three iron pieces of cannon, and the battery with five brafs and two iron pieces of cannon. The Receif. Maurice's Town, upon the ifland of Anthony Vaez. The fort Frederick Henry, alias the Quinquangular Fort. The redoubt of ftone near this fort. The redoubt Kiik, betwixt the fort Frederick Henry and the fort Prince William. The fort Prince William, upon the river Affagados. The forts then in pofleflion of the Portuguefe, and taken by them from the Dutch, are thefe : Seregippo del Rey, Rio St. Francifco, and Porto Calvo, being reduced by famine, were rafed by the Portuguefe, being fenfible that our people could not maintain them- felves there without ereding of new ones, which was not to be done without a vafl charge. Near the point of Tamandare, the place where the Portuguefe from the Bahia firfl of all landed their men ; and where afterwards their fleet was beaten by ours, the enemy laid the foundation of a fort for the fecurity of tliat harbour, where fliips of great burthen might fafely ride at anchor. The 23d of January, Mr. Beaumont was fent by the new council to confer with the late members, concerning the prefent condition of Rio St. Francifco, and what was beft to be done there : they anfwered him as before, that the fort as it was now could do but little fervice, and that therefore it would be worth our confideration, whether the propofals made by them in writing might not now be put in practice. The faid Mr. Beaumont further propofed, whether it would not be requifite to eredl an earthen redoubt for the defence of the Baretta ; unto which thofe of the old council replied, that confidering the vafl: charge, and the fmall benefit which could be expefted from it, the fame might be more conveniently built in fome place or other, to facilitate our paflage into the open country. Beaumont was of opinion, that thereby the enemy would be prevented from advancing to the fort Frederick Henry ; but the old members told him, that notwithflanding we had now a fort on the Baretta, we could not hinder the enemy's coming upon that ifland near the fort, unlefs we would keep a con- fiderable force there for that purpofe ; that we need not fear their tranfporting any cannon thither, becaufe their retreat might be cut off at high tide ; neither could they, from thence, do any mifchief to the Receif, it being evident, that the fliot of our biggefl: cannon in the fort Frederick William could not reach the faid ifland. The fame evening, Mr. Van Goch and Hack came to tell the members of the old council, that the HoUandia and Ulyeflingen would be ready in a little time, in order to condudl them to Holland, the Ulyeflingen being ordered forthwith to return from the Bahia, whither flie was fent a-cruizing. By this time the enemy had blocked us up fo clofely in the Receif, that on the land fide we durfl; fcarce look without the gates ; and a certain Portuguefe had prepared us a •worfe entertainment, having invited all our chief commanders abroad to his daughter's wedding, during which time the enemy were to have furjirifed the city ; but this defign being timely difcovered by fome Portuguefe and Jews, niifcarricd. About the 15th of Oflober, the Portuguefe began to rebuild the fort Bon Jefus, as it is called by them, but by us Altena, on the other fide of the river. We had Ibme notice of it by deferters, but could not difcover tlie truth of it, becaufe they kept us from advancing that way by their caimon, and the place was furrounded on all fides with woods ; but as foon as they had caufed them to be cut down, we difcovered it both by fight and the roaring of their cannon, which thundered inceflTantly againfl: the nieuhoff's brazil. S57 the city, caufed fuch a confternation, as is not eafy to be exprefled, mofl: people fheltering themfelves in vaults, to avoid the fury of the enemy's cannon. Of diis I faw a moft miferable fpeftacle in a certain young lady, a niece of the late Admiral Lichthart, who being come to vifit one of her acquaintance lately married, had both her legs fhot off by a cannon bullet, which at the fame time killed the new-married woman upon the fpot. At the outcry of thefe miferable wretches I ran thither iuftantly, my houfe being juft by, where I was an eye-witnefs of their mifery, the poor young lady grafping my legs with fuch an agony, that fhe could fcarce be pulled off with all the ftrength I had ; it being a moil doleful fpectacle for me to fee the floor covered with the legs and arms of thefe miferable wretches ; the poor young lady died likewife within three days after. It was not long after that I narrowly efcaped the fame jnisfor- tune ; for whilft I was talking with fome of the inhabitants of the city, as 1 was going the rounds, two of them were killed by a cannot bullet, and another had both his hands Ihot off as he was lighting his pipe. Nay, we were forced to remove all the fhips out of the harbour for fear of being funk. Colonel Schoppe, in the meanwhile, had made himfelf mailer of and dellroyed Taperika, 2, coo Portuguefe only having faved them- felves by flight ; but by the many unfuccefsful encounters we had with the Portuguefe, our forces decreafmg daily, whereas theirs increafed. Colonel Schoppe was ordered to command Colonel Hinderfon to leave Rio St. Francifco, and to join him in Taperika ; but this flood us but in Httle flead, being not long after obliged to leave likewife Taperika for the relief of the Receif. All our force confifting of about 1,800 men, being now come to the Receif, (where they had not provifions for above feven months left) it was feveral times taken into confideration, what was bell to be done at this 'juncture. Colonel Schoppe, with fome other officers, were of opinion not to hazard an en- gagement, our forces being fo much inferior to the enemy, but to (lay for a more fa- vourable opportunity ; but it was carried by the majority to venture a general fally for the relief ot the Receif, the chief command thereof being given to Colonel Brink, be- caufe Colonel Schoppe was not as yet cured of his wounds he had received in a late en- counter. Our forces marched towards evening as far as Guerapes, a place fatal to us the year before by the defeat of our people, the fields thereabouts being as yet covered with their bones. The Portuguefe no fooner perceived us to be upon the march, but they left the fort Altena, of which we having got notice, poffeffed ourfelves of it imme- diately,, and thus drew the thorn out of our foot. But the i6th of May proved the mofl fatal of all we had feen for many years before in Brazil. For though our forces attacked the enemy with bravery, and maintained the fight with great obflinacy for fome time, yet the enemy, flulhed with their number and late fuccefs, with 2,500 of their befl men, at laft forced our men to give way, and afterwards to fly, being purfued by 150 Portuguefe horfe ; fo that both in the fight and flight, we loll above 1,100 men, among whom were Colonel Brink, and almoft all the reft of our commanders : we loft alfo nineteen colours, and all our cannon and ammunition we had carried along wivh us. It was not till five days after before leave could be obtained to bury our dead, which began to corrupt and flink moft naufeoufly, by reafon of the burning heat of the fun. This was the laft effort we were likely to make in the field ; all our future care being for the prefervation and defence of the Receif, unlefs we ftiould be fupplied with frefh fuccours from Holland : but the fame arriving but flowly, moft people began to tear, that, in cafe God Almighty did not fend us fome unexpected relief, we fliould be at laft forced to leave that place likewife to the mercy of the enemy ; the great council laying the fault of our late misfortunes upon the council of war, and thefe again upon them, alledging that the foldiers were ill-provided for, and wanted their pay. As for m\ felf, VOL. XIV. 5 R being 858 nieuhoff's brazil. being fenfible that things would be worfe and worfe every day, I thought it the fafeft way for me alfo to defire a paflport for my return to Holland, which at laft with much ado I obtained, and fo prepared every thing for my voyage. But before I leave Brazil, I ought to give you a Ihort account of the produfts of the faid country. The captainfliip of Pernambuko, and Brazil in general, being not only well flored with cattle, but alib with feveral forts of herbs, trees, and fruits, we will give you a fliort view of them, and begin with the Mandiiba, and its root, called Maudioka, unto which the Brazilians ftand chiefly indebted for their fuflenance. The moil parts of America are ignorant hitherto of wheat or any other grain, inftead of which, nature has furnifhed them with a certain fhrub, the root of which dried and powdered, and after- wards boiled and baked as we do our bread, is the common food of the inhabitants of America. This fhrub grows in vaft plenty every where, being by the Brazilians called Maniiba and Mandiiba, and its root Mandioka. There are divers kinds of it, diftin- guilhed by the Brazilians by different names, but the root is in general called mandioka. Their leaves are fmall, green, and long, pointed at the end, which grow upon large ftalks or branches, each of which has five, fix, or feven leaves, growing in a clufter, refembling a ftar, called by the Brazilians, Manikoba. The ftock or ftem is dilliu- guiflied by certain knots, not above an inch thick, but generally fix, fometimes feven feet high, from whence fprout forth feveral branches, which producing again leffer ftalks, bear the before-mentioned leaves. It bears a fmall flower of a pale yellow colour, and of five leaves only, with fmall ftalks within, which at laft turn to feed. The root mandioka refembles our parfnip in fliape, being two or three foot long, and about a man's arm thick, but grows thinner towards the bottom. Its outward rind re- fembles that of a hazel-tree, but its fubftance is white, affording a milky fliarp juice, which is pernicious to beafts. This ihrub grows in dry, barren, and fandy ground, its nature being fo averfe to moifture, that they are obliged to plant it only in the fummer months, where it is moft expofed to the fun. For this purpofe it is, that the Inhabit- ants cut down the woods on the hills and in the plains, which they burn, and fo pre- pare the ground for the production of this root ; thefe fields are by the Brazilians called Ko, by the Portuguefe, Roza or Chokas, and by our people, RolTen, Thefe fields are turned up into fmall round hills like mole-hills ; the Portuguefe call them Montes de Terra Cavada, or Hollowed Hills, the Brazlhans, Kujo. Thefe hills they make about two foot and a half afunder, each being about three foot in circumference, and half a foot high, that the rain may be carried off with the more eafe. In each of thefe hills they commonly plant three fmall taks of this ftirub, of about nine or ten inches or a foot long, without leaves ; notwithftanding which, they grow and foon bear frefli leaves, and in time produce new roots, which cannot be tranfplanted, becaufe no fooner are they taken out of the ground, but they begin to putrefy and ftink. After thefe taks have been about ten days in the ground, they begin to bud and produce as many frefli taks as they have knots ; each of thefe taks is about a finger long, from whence fprout forth many leffer ones of a purple colour. The fields inuft be three or four times a year cleared of the weeds, which grow in great plenty amongft it, and choak it up before it comes to its full growth. The fmall taks and leaves of thefe fhrubs are mightily in- fefted by the pifmires, and likewife coveted by the wild-goats, oxen, horfes, and flieep, for which reafon they are very careful to fence thefe plantations with ftalks and branches of trees. The bees, conies, and fome other Brazilian creatures, are mighty fond of the root, which takes no harm, though the ftirub be ftripped of all the leaves, provided the root nieuhoff's brazil. 859 root hfelf be not touched. This root does not come to its full perfe£lion till a year after planting of the taks, though, in cafe of neceffity, they may be drawn in fix months, but afford but little farinha. Each flirub produces two, three, four, nay fometimes twenty, roots, according to the goodnefs of the ground, and after they are come to full matu- rity, will keep two or three years under-ground ; but it is much more fafe to take them up at the year's end, for elfe many of them will rot ; nay if the feafon happens to prove very wet, they mull of neceifity be drawn, though they are but half ripe. The root, after it is taken out of the ground, will not keep above three days, but ftinks, take •what care you can ; for which reafon they feldom draw more at a time than they can make immediately into farinha or meal. That kind of mandioka, commonly called Mandibuka, grows fafter and ripens fooner than any other, and affords the befl farinha ; it thrives beft in fandy and hot grounds. But that kind which is moft generally ufed is called iVIandiik- parata, and grows indifferently in all grounds. The farinha is prepared thus : the root after it is taken out of the ground is purged from its outward rind by a knife, and wafhed in fair water ; then the end of the root is held clofe to a wheel of about four or five foot diameter, which being covered round the edges with a copper or tin plate full of fliarp fmall holes, not unlike a nutmeg-grater, and the wheel being turned round continually, grates the faid root into fmall particles, which fall into a trough under- neath, The wheel is by the Brazilians called Ibeceni Babaca, and by the Portuguefe, Roda de farinha, or the flour-wheel ; the trough the Brazilians call Mukaba, and the Portuguefe, Koche de rater Mandihoka. But the poorer fort are fain to be contented with a hand-grater, called Tapiti. The root thus grated is put into a bag, made of the rinds of trees, about four inches wide, called by the Portuguefe, Efpremondouro de Mandihoka. This bag with the root is put into a prefs, and all the juice preffed out, (it having a venomous quality) which is by the Brazilians called Manipoera, or Muni- puera, and by the Portuguefe, Agoa de Mandihoka, i. e. the water of Mandihoka. The next thing to be done is to beat the root through a fieve, called by the Brazilians, Urupema ; and then to lay it upon a copper-plate, or earthen pan, over the fire, and to ftir it continually with a wooden fpoon or fpattle till it be quite dry. This pan or veffel the Brazilians call Vimovipaba, and the flice Vipucuitaba. The farinha, before it be quite dry, is called by the Brazilians, Vitinga, and by the Portuguefe, Farinha Relada ; but when it is completely dried and fit for keeping, the Brazilians call it Viata or Viccia, and the Portuguefe, Farinha Seca, or dry meal ; or Farinha de Guerra, war-meal, becaufe it is moft ufed in time of war. For the more it is dried the better it keeps, but never keeps good above a year, the leaft moifture being apt to taint it ; which is the reafon, that both the Portuguefe and we, in imitation of the Brazi- lians, make bifcuits of it upon a grate iron, wath hot coals underneath, for the magazines. The juice Manipuera, which is preffed out of the root mandioka, put into a veffel, gets in two hours time a white fettlement at the bottom, called by the Brazilians, Tipioja, Tipiaka, and Tipiabika ; this dried, affords a very white meal, called Tipi- ocui, which, baked into cakes as before, called by them Tipiacika, tafte as well as wheaten bread. This juice is alfo boiled to pap, and eaten, and ferves likewife inftead of ftarch or parte. The Portuguefe take this pap, mix it with fugar, rice, and orange-flower-water, which they make into a conferve of a delicious tafte ; they call it Marmelada de Mandihoka. The juice Mandiga or Manipuera is of a fweetifli tafte, which is the reafon the beafts covet it, but commonly die foon after they have drank of it, it being pernicious, nay mortal, both to man and beaft. If the juice be kept twice twenty-four hours, it produces worms, called by the Brazilians Tapucu ; yet it has been found by experience, that this juice lofes its pernicious quality after it has 5 R 2 flood 86o nieuhoff's rrazil. flood twenty-four hours, there being many of the Brazilians who boil and drink it without any harm. The root mandioka, is likewife immediately after it is taken out of the ground, fliced in pieces, and laid in frefh water for four or five days ; when it begins to be foft it is called Puba, or Mandiopuba, and Mandiopubo. This the wild Brazilians inhabiting the deferts and woods, roaft in the afhes and eat ; becaufe it is done without much trouble. The fame mandiopuba, toafted before the fire, is called Kaarima, which being afterwards beat to powder with a wooden peftle in a mor- tar, they call Kaarimaciu ; of this they make a pap with boiling water, which, feafoned with fome Brazilian pepper, or Nhambi flowers, affords a very good difli, efpecially with the addition of fome fifh or meat, when it is called Minguipitinga by the Brazilians, who look upon it as one of their beft dainties. It Is alfo very wholefome, for this Kaarima, and the flower Tipiaka, boiled in orange-flower-water and fugar, to the con- fiflency of a fyrup, affords a very good antidote. They make alfo a kind of flarch of the flower called Kaarima, which they called Mingaupomonga ; as likewife very fine cakes, by mixing it with water, butter and fugar. There is a kind of meal prepared from the dregs of the mandioka or mandiopuba root, thus fleeped in water, called by the Brazilians, Vipuba, and Viabiruru, and by the Portuguefe, Farinha Frefca, or frefh flour, and Farinha d'Agoa, or water-flour. It is very well tailed, but will not keep above twenty-four hours. But if you make it up with water into balls and rolls, and let them dry in the fun, they will keep good for a confiderable time ; thefe they call Viapua and Miapeteka. The Tapoyers, and almoft all the other Brazilians, pre- pare it thus, and afterwards mix it with another meal called Viata, which affords it a more agreeable tafle. The mandioka root is likewife prepared thus ; after it has been cleanfed, and cut in thin flices, they beat it with a wooden peflile, and fqueeze the juice out with their hands only, which being dried, they call Tina and Mixakuruba ; another way of preparing the mandioka root Is, to cut it into pieces of about two fingers long, and two inches thick, which, without being fqueezed, is expofed to the fun, and after- wards beat to powder in a wooden mortar, called by the Brazilians, Tipirati, by the Portuguefe, Farinha de Mandioka Crua, or the flour of raw mandioka ; the pieces before they are beaten to powder are very white, and may be ufed inflead of chalk. Out of this flour they make very good white bread and bifcuits, called Maipeta, the lafl of which are chiefly ufed in the camp, becaufe they will keep a great while. Out of the root Aipimakaxera, the Brazilians boil a certain pleafant liquor not unlike our whey, called by them Kavimakaxera. The fame root, chewed and mixed with water, furnifhes them with another liquOr they call Kaon Karaxu. The cakes made from the flour of this root, laid In a cafk with water, till it ferments together, affords them likewife a fort of ftrong and very good beer. All thefe difterent kinds of mandioka roots. If they be eaten frefh, prove mortal to mankind, except that called Aipimakaxera, which roafted, may be eaten without dan- ger, and is of a good taflc. But all f irts of beafts, both wild and tame ones, do not only feed upon the faid roots and leaves, without the leafl hurt, but alfo grow fat with them, notwithflanding that the juice of both is mortiferous as well to men as beafls. The negroes and Brazilians bruife the leaves of the mandiiba in a wooden mor- tar, which being fpoiled, they put oil or butter over it, and eat it as we do our fpinage ; this is fometimes done by the Portuguefe likewife, and the Dutch, who make a kind of failad of the fame leaves. The Brazilians prefer the bread made of the mandioka root before ours, but it is not (o natural to tlie Europeans, it being, if ufed in a great quantity, pernicious to the nerves and Ilomach, and corrupts the blood. About NIEUHOFF S BRAZIL. 86 I About three bufhels of this meal (at the rate of two gilders per bufhel) will fuffice a ftrong labouring man for a whole month, and a piece of ground planted with this root, produces four times the quantity, as if it had been fown with wheat. There is a certain kind of mandioka root called Pitinga by the Brazilians, the flour of which cleanfes and heals old ulcers. This root is likewife found in the ifle of St. Thomas, and in thofe of Hifpaniola, Cuba, and others thereabouts, and in moft parts of the continent of America ; the inhabitants of which call it Yuka and KalTave, and thofe of Mexico, Quauhkamoth, and the bread which is made of the flour, Kazabis, Kazabi, or Kakavi. The mandioka root is originally the natural produ£t of Brazil, and from thence tranfplanted into other parts of America and Africk. Its flour furnifhes all the inhabitants of Brazil, as well the Portuguefe and Dutch, as the natives and negroes, with bread, which next to wheat is the bell of all, fo that our foldiers would rather chufe to have their allowance in farinha, than wheaten bread out of the magazines. Since the war in 1645, ^^^ price of the farinha was rifen to three or four gilders per bufliel, which, as it tended to tlie utter deftrudion of the fugar-mills, fo by fpecial orders from the great council of the Dutch Brazil, all the inhabitants of the open country were enjoined, under a fevere penalty, to plant a certain quantity of mandioka yearly, in proportion to their abilities, by which means the price of the farinha was fo confiderably abated, that three bufliels were fold for two fliillings ready money, at the Receif, and for lefs in the country. Brazil produces a certain herb called Kaaeo by the Brazilians, by the Europeans in Latin, herba viva, becaufe it feems to fhrink when you touch it, and fo it does like- wife about fun-fet ; its feed has been tranfmitted into Europe, where it grows to its full perfeftion. The Kalabaffes are a kind of pompions, their rind, if dried, being fo thick and ftrong, as to ferve for materials for cups, porringers, and fuch like utenfils. But what is molt furprifmg, is, that they always grow of a different Ihape, fome being long, others round, others oval, fome thick before, others at the end. They bluflbm and bear fruit once a month, the bloflTom being yellow mixed with green ; the pulp is white at firft, but turns to a violet colour ; they are of a tolerable pleafant tafte, but very unwholefome, by reafon they are too aftringent. The tree called Imakaru by the Brazilians, is of a middle fize, its trunk round and its bark grey, covered with fmall thirties of the fame colour. Its branches fprout forth on the top, with broad leaves of an oval figure, edged likewife with fmall thirties of thorns. There is alfo another kind of Imakaru, much larger than the former, called Kakabu by the Brazilians, and Kardon by the Portuguefe. This fprouts forth firft of all in the form of a large octangular leaf, upon which rrows croflwife many thorns ; this produces other leaves of the fame kind, each being three, nay fometimes fix foot long, and of the thicknefs of a man's arm. By degrees the firli leaf turns into a woody fubftance, of a greenifti colour, but fomewhat fpungy ; thofe leaves that grow next to this rtem are inftead of branches, w hich produce other leaves. The ftem bears only one large white flower, the fruit of which is of an oval figure, and of about Uvice the bignefs of a hen's egg, of a dark brown colour, and fit for ufe. This tree grows to a great height. There is alfo another kind of Imakaru, being altogether the fame with the former in refped of its largenefs, blolTom and fruit, except that its leaves are of a triangular figure. What the Brazilians call Pako Kaatinga, the Portuguefe commonly call Canodo Mato, or wild reed or canes. The ftem or ftalk is like that of other canes, about an inch thick, containmg a white marrow or pith, of a fweetilh tafte, on which grow 1 2 leaves 862 nieuhoff's brazil. leaves of eight or nine inches long, and three inches broad, fhaped like a tongue, fmooth and pale, green on one and covered with a white woolly fubflance on the other fide. The fruit of which is not unlike a pine-apple, about ten inches long, growing on the top of the ftem ; it is divided into feveral partitions, which, opening by degrees, a pale grey flower appears betwixt each, containing underneath twenty or more grains of a black fhining feed. The ftalk chewed draws the rheum from the head, and breaks the flone in the bladder. It is looked upon as an excellent remedy againft the involuntary emiflion of the feed throughout Brazil, and cures it in eight days time. All over Brazil, but efpecially in the ifle of Itamarika, grows a certain tree called Kasjui or Kasjou, bearing a fruit of the fame name. Its leaves are dark-green, broad and round, interfperfed with many fmall veins. It bears two different bloffoms and fruits. The white bloflbm which appears in the lower branches produce a juicy fpungy fruit like an apple, of a very coohng and aftringent quality ; but the red blof- fom on the top a kind of chefnut. The Brazilians draw no fmall advantage from this tree ; out of the apples they make a very good cyder called by them Kasjouwy, which is fourifli, but if mixed with fugar, makes it as pleafant as Rhenilh wine, and has this excellency, that though it loon feizes the head, yet it paffes off without any harm. The other fruit they eat like as we do our chefnuts. Among the produfts of the Weft and Eaft-Indies is a tree called Papay by the Javanefe and Dutch, and Pinoguacu or Mamoeira by the Americans ; and fometimes entitled with the name of the melon-tree by our people, by reafon of the refemblance of its fruit to our melons. This tree is of two different kinds, to wit, the male and female. It grows and periflies again in a fhort time, its trunk being fo fpungy that it may be cut as eafy as a cabbage-ftalk ; the leaves it bears are very large and broad, not unlike our vine-leaves, growing on long italics round the top of the tree, and covering the fruit, which hangs in a knot, and is green at the firft, but turns vellcnv at laft, refembling in Ihape a pear, but of the bignefs of our fmall melons, unto which its pulp refembles both in colour and tafte, when come to maturity, but whilft they are green, they are boiled with meat, and give it a tart tafte. The red-pepper, known by the name of Brazil-pepper, and called Chili Lada by the Brazilians, grows on knotty ftalks of about five or fix foot high ; the rind being a dark-green, diftinguilhed with white rings, from whence (hoot forth fmall crooked branches of a hand's-breadth in length, bearing a fmall white flower, which produces a green huflc, and turns red by degrees as it ripens, with a certain feed within it, being as hot and biting upon the tongue as the common brown-pepper, and fo does the hulk. In the Eaft Indies they preferve it, and call it Aetzar, and ufe it raw in their fifli- fauces. In Brazil, they cut two or three of thefe huflvs, whilft they are green, in flices, and mix them with oil and vinegar, or fome lemon-juice, to acuate their appetite, but it is too hot for thofe that are not ufed to it, which is allayed by a good quantity of fait. This kind of pepper grows likewife in the Eaft-Indies, in the ifland of Java, in Bengal, and feveral other places. I have feen it alfo in fome of our gardens in Holland. There is another flirub which grows frequently in the Eaft Indies, not unlike this in fhape and bignefs, which bears a yellow flower ; it is called Halika Kabus by the Ara- bians or Alkekengi, and fufliciently known in thefe parts. The flower produces a fmall bladder which contains the fruit and feed ; they are not fo big as ours. The Indians and Chinefe mix it with a certain fruit called by them Poma d'Oro, Tamatas by the Portuguefe, and Melanfana by the Italians ; they alfo eat it with Chili Lada, or Brazi- lian pepper. The Portuguefe cut the Poma d'Oro and the hufli of the Brazilian pepper in thin flices, which being mixed with oil and vinegar, they eat as fallad, and look upon nieuhoff's brazil. 863 upon il as a proper remedy to cut the rough phlegm of the flomach, a diftemper very common in thoie parts. The Brazilians, as well as the Dutch, chew this pepper for the fame purpofe, but it is very burning upon the tongue. The fugar-canes or reeds, called by the Brazilians Viba, are the produft both of the Weft and Eaft Indies, but grow in great plenty throughout all Brazil, but efpecially in the captainfhip of Pernambuko. They are of two different kinds, one bearing fmall, the other larger leaves. The laft, which is accounted the beft, fprouts up into a long flem of the thicknefs of a child's arm, the leaves growing all on the top in a clufter, being of an oval figure, and a dark-blue colour. The rind is diflinguiflied by certain joints or knots ; the other kind bears fmall leaves from the top to the bottom. The fugar-canes are propagated from their fmall fprouts, which being put in the ground like our vines, grow up to the height of twelve foot, if they are planted in good foil, and are kept free from weeds. Six months after they have been planted, a brown feed appears on the top ; then it is fit to be cut ; for if they ftand longer in the ground their juice diminifhes, dries up, and turns four. The juice, if taken immediately after it is drawn, caufes a loofenefs. The low grounds are much more convenient for the plant- ing of fugar-reeds than the hills, efpecially near the river fide, where the banks are overflown by the ftream. There are a certain kind of winged worms, called Guirapea- koka by the Brazilians, and Pao de Galinha by the Portuguefe, which are great ene- mies to the fugar-canes, efpecially in moift grounds, where they gnaw and confume the roots. The fugar, which is the produd of thefe canes, is not procured without a great deal of toil and labour, in which, for the moft part, are employed flaves, under the tuition of certain overfeers appointed by the mafters of the fugar-mills, who were for the mofl part Portuguefe, the Dutch being hitherto not arrived to the utmoft per- feclion in that art. In the captainfliip of Pernambuko, many fine Ingenhos or fugar- mills, with their adjacent plantations, were erefted for this purpofe, amounting, in all, to above one hundred in number, and the labourers, negroes, and other African flaves thereunto belonging, to near forty thoufand. The whole yearly produfl: of fugar of the Dutch Brazil is computed to be betwixt two hundred and two hundred and fifty thou- fand chefts. In the year 1642, one Gillin Venant brought fome indigo-feed from the American iflands into Brazil, who having certain lands afTigned him near the fmall river Mercera, and being provided with all other conveniences by the fpecial command of the great council, ereded feveral plantations for the producing of Aniel or indigo : but it being found by experience, that the pifmires confumed moft of the leaves, the faid Mr. Ve- nant, by employing many labourers and negroes, to deflroy thefe pifmires with burn- ing and digging, at laft fo well cleared the ground, that the indigo came to its full per- feftion, feveral patterns of which were fent into Holland. Mr. Venant having made an agreement with Mr. Chriflopher Eyerfliettel to inftruft him in the mofl neceffary points relating to the coagulating the indigo, he was treating with the great council concerning certain grounds for the planting of indigo, fo that there was a fair profpett of bringing this defign to a confiderable perfection here, if the fame had not been prevented by the intefline war. The wild aniel, which grows in Brazil in great plenty, has a great refemblance to the true indigo in outward appearance, but affords no good colours. Some pretend to have feen alfo a kind of wild cochineal in Brazil, and the ground would produce good ftore of cotton, but that the inhabitants draw much more profit from the fugar- plantations. 3 Some 864 nieuhoff's brazil. Some ginger is likewife planted in Brazil, but not in fuch quantities as to be tran- fported into otlier parts, no more than tlie Mechoaconna, China, and fome other me- dicinal roots ; and the Herba de Cubra or Herba de Nofla Senhora, which is looked upon as an infallible remedy againft the gravel ; and the root called Paquoquanha, which is the univerfal medicine of the Brazilians. There are alfo many tranfplanted hither from other parts, as ginger, tobacco, rice, cotton, Turkey wheat, aniel, or indigo, and the fugar-reeds were firft of all tranfported by the Portuguefe from the Canary Iflands. The fruits in daily ufe among the inhabitants, are Ananas, Bananas, Man- gaba, Akaju, Arakou great and fmall, Guajaba, divers kinds of Murukuja, Ibapiranga, Mazaxanduba, Akaja, Aratiku, Guitakori, Biringela, Mamaon, Cocoa-nuts, and feveral forts of Indian figs. The roots chiefly in ufe, are the Batatas, Nhambi and Umbi, and the Indian acorns, called Tembi, which are of a delicious tafte. The whole country of Brazil is extremely fertile and pleafant, being watered by many rivers and {landing waters, moft of which arife from the lulls, and pafs through fpacious plains, the lafl: of which are clayey and marfhy grounds (called Vergeas by the Portuguefe), which produce all forts of fruit, but efpecially fugar-canes, in great plenty. Their meadows and pafture-grounds do not appear fo pleafant in the fumraer as in the rainy feafon, when they are very green ; wheat and rye grow foon rank here, which is occafioned partly by the nature of the foil, and partly by the heat of the fun ; to prevent which, they never let their grounds lie fallow, and manure them with fand infliead of dung. The fame mufl: be obferved with all other foreign feeds here, that require to be kept a confiderable time under-ground. In February and March (which is the rainy and winter-feafon of this climate), they fow their feeds, and that towards evening, not by day-time, or about midnight. They take great care not to plant any thing too deep under-ground ; for whatever is planted beyond the fun-beams feldom produces any fruit, which our people have learned to their coft. There is a remarkable difference betwixt the feeds and fruits which are produced on the hills, and thofe of the marfliy grounds, as to their time of ripening ; though the cocoa and palm-trees are tranfplanted here without the leaft regard to their age, bignefs, or the feafon, and grow very well. Moft of their own trees and fhrubs bear flowers and fruit throughout the whole year, fo that, at one and the fame time, you enjoy the benefit of the fpring, fummer, and winter ; the like is obfervable in the vines, citron, le/non, and other trees, brought by the Portuguefe from Angola into Brazil, and in, feveral roots, pot-herbs, and other fruits, tranfplanted thither by the Dutch. Thofe who covet ripe grapes throughout the whole year, do only prune their vines at divers times, which produce a fine grape, and a wine as fweet as molaflTes. The worft is, that they are much infefted by the pifmires, which fuck all the juice, and leave nothing but the hu(ks to the owners ; feveral other forts of trees have been tranfplanted thither from Holland, which thrive extremely, and bear very good fruit. The ftanding waters of Brazil are, for the moft part, covered on the furface with green fhrubs and herbs, that they appear rather like land than water, and feed both land and wa- ter-fowl. At the entrance of moft of their rivers (where you meet with valt quantities of oyfters and crabs), the country is fo overftocked with a certain kind of a tree called Gua- paraba, or Mangle, by the Brazilians, that they render it impaflable for travellers. In fhuit, tlie whole Brazil is well ftored with trees, fhrubs, and ufeful woods, there being fcarce a place, either in the valleys or rifing grounds, which are clayey, or among the hills, which do not produce fomething that is ufeful ; and that in fuch plenty, that the Por- tuguefe, after their firft arrival here, were forced to cut their way through thefe trees with nieuhoff's brazil. 865 with incredible pains and charge. The hills furnifh alfo great ftore of wood, which is of a very good fcent, and is ufed by dyers ; as for inftance the Brazil wood, which is from hence tranfported into Europe. The ftem or trunk of this tree is knotty, of a very agreeable fcent, and fometimes two or three fathoms thick : its leaves are dark-green, and fmall, thorny at the end, and grow on fmall ftalks ; the bark, which is about three inches thick, is generally taken from the trunk, before it is fitted for fale : it fprouts from its own root, and produces neither bloflbm nor fruit. Mofl of thefe trees grow about ten or twelve leagues from the fea-fide, where they cut them down, take off the bark, and carry them upon wag- gons to the fea-fhore, from whence they are tranfported into Europe for the ufe of the dyers chiefly ; the Brazilians call this tree for its excellency's fake, Ibirapitanga. After the Dutch had conquered part of Brazil, they found great ftore of this wood ready cut and fitted for ufe by the Portuguefe, who fold it to the Dutch company ; fince which time it was cut down promifcuoufly by the Portuguefe as well as the Dutch, and fuch vaft quantities of it were tranfported in 1646 and 1647, "^^at the members of the great council of the Dutch Brazil, Mr. Henry Hamel, Bulleftraet and Kodde, being made fenfible of the deftru^live methods that were made ufe of in cutting this wood, which muft in time have tended to the utter extirpation of thefe trees, did by their proclama- tion regulate thefe abufes. They have another kind of very fine wood in Brazil, called by the Portuguefe, Pao Santo, as likewife thofe called Gitayba, Vio Wood, Maflaran- duba, cedar, and divers other woods fit for cabinet-work. The tree called Tataiba by the Portuguefe, the wood of which the Portuguefe call Pao Amaretto, affords a yellow colour for the dyers. The bark of the tree Araiba is of an alh colour, but boiled in water gives a red tinfture. The tree Jakauranda, or Jaturiba, or the white-cedar, as well as feveral other trees, furnifli the inhabitants with materials for building, being very hard and durable. The Brazilians make alfo matches and a kind of hemp out of the bark of fonie trees. The moft barren places of Brazil do produce a certain kind of trees without leaves, which they call Timbo or Tibo ; out of thefe they make hoops, by reafon of their flexi- bility, and the bark ferves the fliip-carpenters inftead of hemp. The Brazilians light their fires by ftriking two pieces of wood, of the trees Karaguata Guacu and Imbaiba, together, as we do with our flint-ftones and iron. The firft is a tree of an admirable nature : its ftem grows fourteen or fifteen foot high, which being come to its full perfeftion, bears yellow flowers on the top, and abundance of large, long and thick leaves. Out of the ftem they make fticks to hang their mattraflfes on, the leaves afford the fifhermen ftuff for yarn to make nets of; and out of the leaves iffues a certain unftuous liquor, which ferves inftead of foap. The trees and woods of Brazil are never feen to be covered all over with leaves at a time ; but whilft fome caft their leaves, you fee others bring forth new ones ; nay, fometimes one tree is half co- vered with leaves, and bare on the other fide. Brazil likewife abounds in fhrubs and reeds, fome of which creep along the grounds, whilft others tvvift thenifelves up to the top of the higheft trees, which affords a very agreeable fpeftacle at a diftance, and a pleafing fhadow to men and beafts, tired with the heat, hunting, or any other exercife. Among other fruits, Brazil produces very fine oranges of divers kinds ; the other vegetables, which, befides the mandioka root, ferve for the fuftenance of the inhabitants, are rice, millet, Patatas, Ananas, Bananas, melons, pompions, water-melons, cucumbers, beans, figs, Bakovas, Marakuja, Mangavas, Arataku, Ape, cabbages, radJifh, lettuce, purflane, parfley, chervel, carrots, &c. VOL. XIV. 5 s Nothing 866 nieuhoff's brazil. Nothing is fo much in requefl among the Brazilians, as the Akaju, a kind of wilcJ apple, which furniflies them both with food and drink, being very juicy; fo that this tree feems by kind nature to have been planted here for the peculiar comfort of the in- habitants : it fpreads its branches round about in a great compafs, but does not grow to that height as many other trees in this country : its wood, which is very folid, is very fit for tlie building of fhips, from whence iffues a very clear gum in the fummer-feafon. Its leaves, which are red, refemble thofe of our walnut-trees, efpecially when they firfl fprout forth in the fpring, but are of a much finer fcent, which they never lofe but by being diftilled. The bloffom is a flower confiding of five fmall leaves, which grow to the number of about a hundred in one duller ; each of thefe flowers has a ftalk, with a fmall head in the middle. At their firll coming out, which is in September, they are very white, but turn foon after to a rofe colour ; they are very odoriferous, and fill all the circumjacent grounds with their agreeable fmell. This tree bears a double fruit, viz. an apple, and a chefnut : the apple is of an oval figure, very juicy ; its pulp fpongy, full of kernels, and of a tartifli tafte. The juice taints linen with a certain colour, fuch as we call iron-molds, which is never to be taken out, but returns as often as thefe trees Hand in bloflfoms ; it is of a whitilh colour after it is preifed out, and tartifli, but changes both its colour and tafl:e by fermentation, and becomes very fl:rong. The rind of the apple, which is very thin, is white mixed with red. The chefnut, which grows on the top of the apple in the fliape of a lamb's kidney, is covered with a thin ikin, over which grows a thick afli-coloured fliell, full of a hot, fharp and burning oil, which bites the tongue ; to correft which, they roaft the chefnut in the aflies, break the fliell with a hammer, and eat the pith or kernel, which taftes better than a common chefnut, and will keep good for feveral years. The Brazilians are fo fond of this fruit, that they often fight for it ; then they encamp among thefe trees, and remove not till they have confumed all thereabouts, unlefs they are forced thereunto by tl%e enemy. They num- ber the years of their ages by this tree, becaufe it bears fruit but once a year, which ripens towards the latter end of December or in January, there being none to be found on the trees after February in Pernambuko. About the time the fun returns back from the tropick of Capricorn, it commonly rains in Brazil, which the inhabitants call the rains of Akaju, for, if the fame happens to be moderate, they promife ihemfelves great plenty of this fruit. The chefnuts are hot in the fecond degree ; if eaten raw with wine and fait, they tafl:e like walnuts, but if roafted or preferved with fugar, they are of a delicious tafte. The oil which is taken out of the fliell, is an excellent remedy againft the hair-worm ; it is hot in the third and fourth degree, and frequently applied to can- cers and other malignant ulcers. The gum, powdered and taken in a convenient ve- hicle, opens the obltruftions of the womb. The juice of the apple furniflies them with good cyder. There are many forts of palm-trees to be met with in Brazil, fome of which grow wild, fome are planted and cultivated by the inhabitants. Among the firfl the palm- tree called Pindava by the Brazilians, which grows very tall, claims the preference, of which there are whole woods to be feen in the open country. In the more remote and unfrequented places, grows a certain palm-tree called Karanatham and Anachekaira by the Brazilians, and by an Arabick word among the Portugucfe, Tamar, or date, which this fruit refembles. The tree grows as high as a common date-tree, its wood is red and very folid, but of no great ufe. The bark is grey, which from the ground up- wards to a certain part of the tree is dillinguifhed by many fcales, which are largeft at V ^ the nieuhoff's brazil. 867 the bottom, and fmall by degrees, till about the middle of the tree they quite difappear ; thefe fcales being nothing elfe but the remnants of the branches, which fall off by de- grees, as the tree grows higher ; and continue only towards the top, fpread round about the ftem, like the African date-tree, but much finer. Each of thefe branches is about two or three foot long, flat on two fides, and covered with fmall thorns ; they grow to a vaft thicknefs. At the end of each branch grows one fingle leaf, which is very large and green, plaited like a fan, and about the middle divided into feveral other leaves, like thofe of the common date-tree ; each of thefe laft is about two foot long. Betwixt thofe branches, on which grow the leaves, fpring forth other branches of four or five foot in length, and thefe again are full of other white fprouts, which flowers, with three pale yellow leaves ; thefe produce a fruit of the bignefs of an olive, which is green, bit- ter, and not eatable, but turn black when they ripen, which is in February. The Bra- zilians call this fruit Tirade, and eat it raw ; but our people never took any fancy to it. With the leaves they cover their huts, and make bafkets of them. The palm-tree called Pindava by the Brazilians, has inftead of the bark a white and rough wooden fubftance, which contains a fpongy fulphureous fubftance, out of which the Brazilians prepare a llrong lee. This tree is for the reft but of fmall ufe, being rather eflieemed for orna- ment's fake, by reafon of its height and fine fpreading branches, which however furnifli the inhabitants with leaves to cover their huts, and to make bafkets of; the Portuguefe plant them near their walks and harbours, and round their churches. The leaves of this tree do not hang downwards like thofe of the cocoa-tree, but ftand upright. Juft by thefe leaves fprout certain branches, on which hang bunches of flowers, which pro- duce the fruit, refembling in fhape and bignefs one of our largeft hen-eggs, being fharp at the end, and faftened to the bunch on the other like the pine-apple. The outfide is of a green yellow colour, inclining to a chefnut ; being compofed of a hairy fubftance like that of the cocoa-nuts, but not near fo thick, fcarce exceeding in thicknefs two egg- ftiells. Under this fliell is an infipid faftron yellow pulp, which, however, is ufed by the negroes, who eat it with farinha. Within this pulp is a hard nut, of an oval figure, not unlike the cocoa-nut, of the fame thicknefs, but without holes ; it contains a pith or kernel, as white and big as a walnut, but is not near fo fweet as the cocoa-nut ; they are eaten both by the natives and ftrangers, who are furniflied with them throughout tKe whole year, and called by the Brazilians, Inajamiri, i. e. the fmall cocoa-nut. The ker- nels of thefe nuts furnifli them likewife with a white cooling oil, which is ufed inftead of our oil of rofes, and when frefti drawn mixed among their fallads, but when decayed, in their lamps. The fhell affords an oil of the fame nature, but not altogether fo cool- ing. Out of the top of the tree flows a fine and odoriferous gum, ufed here inftead of gum-arabic ; they alfo pick a certain pith or marrow out of the top, which has a tafte like our walnuts, and, when eaten with bread and fait, is accounted very nouriftiing. There alfo grow cocoa-trees in Brazil, called by the natives Inajaguacuiba, and the fruit Inajaguacu. They are very different from the juft-now-mentioned Pindava-tree, their trunk or ftem being feldom ftraight, but commonly crooked, fometimes from feven to fourteen foot thick, and fifty foot high ; it is without branches, having only fifteen or twenty leaves round the top, each of fifteen foot long. They have alfo good ftore of the comm^on date-trees both male and female. The vaft quantity of pifmires wherewith Brazil abounds, are great enemies to all the products of their grounds, which they endeavour to deftroy by fire and water ; it is further to be obferved, that fome fruits as well as creatures, which are accounted venomous in Europe, are commonly eaten in Brazil ; as, on the other hand, certain things are poifonous there, which are not in Europe. For they have a kind of frogs, and fome filhes, which are extremely 5 s 2 poifonous J 868 nieuhoff's brazil. poifonous ; whereas a certain fort of great pifmires and adders, toads, worms, and wild rats, are eaten by the natives, without any harm. The moft univerfal food of the Brazilians, is the flour made of the mandioka-root, called by them Vi, and Farinha de Mandioka by the Portuguefe, as has been fhewn more at large before. They feed alfo upon the flefh of feveral wild beafts and birds, crabs, craw-filhes, fruits, herbage ; their meat, whether boiled or roafted, they eat half raw. They boil in earthen-pots, called Kama, which they make themfelves. Their flefh they roaft thus ; they dig a hole in the ground, the bottom of which they cover with leaves of trees, and upon them lay meat to be roafted, which being covered with the fame leaves, they throw fand or earth upon them. Upon this they light a good fire, which they continue till they think it lufficiently roafted. If they hit it right, it eats very well, exceeding in goodnefs all other roafted meats ; they call it Biaribi. Their fifties, whether roafted or boiled, they eat with Inquitaya, that is, fait and pepper. They boil their crabs or craw-fifties with fait, and eat them with inquitaya. Small fifties they wrap in leaves, and roaft them in the afties. They take the flour of the mandioka root with their three hindermort fingers of the right-hand, and fo throw it into the mouth ; in the fame manner they do with beans, and fuch like things ; they eat often, both by day and night, they having no fet times for their meals, without the leaft noife, or any drink, which they referve till after they have done. They feldom ufe any fpoons, but inftead of that their fingers, or fome oyfter-ftiell or other ferves their turn. The flefli of feveral wild beafts is much in efteeni among the Brazilians ; as for inftance, that of the great and leflier wild boars ; they have a bunch like a camel on their backs, and are very good food, as well as the flefli of the river pigs, called Kapiverres by the Portuguefe, which is of a very agreeable tafte. The moft general and moft wholefome liquor ufed among the Brazilians, is their river or fountain-water, which, by reafon of its coolnefs, is a great refrefliment to fuch as are tired by the heat, or the fatigues of other exercifes ; this is chiefly to be under- ftood of their fpring- water, which, though ufed here in great quantities, never caufes any griping in the guts, or other inconveniences in the bowels, but, on the contrary, occafions a good appetite, and is foon evacuated by fweating. The waters of the rivers Paray and Paratybi, are accounted a good remedy againft the ftone and gout, which is the reafon that many arrive to the age of above one hun- dred years, who drink nothing but thofe waters, and are never troubled with any of thofe diftempers ; for thofe who are advanced in age are as nice in the different taftes of thofe waters as the Europeans in their wines ; and they look upon thofe as indifcreet who ufe the waters without diftinftion. For, fince moft of their fprings arife among the high eaftern hills, they receive no addition either from the fnows or any metallic bodies, and, being well digefted and purged from their dregs by the heat of the fun- beams, they are very clear and wholefome ; though it muft be confefled, that in the winter-months, fome waters, by reafon of the rains, are not fine and cool as during the fummer-feafon. The negroes make fomelimes a nafty mixture of black-fugar and ■water only, without the leaft fermentation, which they call Garapa ; this, as it is very cheap, fo both men and women fit at it for twenty-four hours together, fpending their time in drinking, finging, and dancing, but feWom quarrel, unlefs they have conceived fome jealoufy of one another. Sometimes they add to it fome leaves of the Akaju-tree, which, by reafon of their hot qualit}', make it the more heady. The Portuguefe and Dutch frequently make a kind of forbette, of water, fugar, and lemons. Others pour water upon certain herbs ; others put a lemon only in water. But befides thcfe, the Bra- zilians know how to make wines, or cyder, out of feveral roots and fruits, which they 1 o ^ drjnk NIEUHOFf's BRA21I». 869 tl: Irink at their merry-meetings ; efpecially of the Bakovas, Ananas, Mangaba, Janipaba, Karaguata, &;c. For though the vines here bear grapes three times a year, neverthe- lefs are they not fufficient to furnifli them with wine. They make a kind of cyder, called by them Kooi, of the apple Akaju ; thefe they ftamp in a wooden mortar and fqueeze the juice out with their hands, which after it is fettled they (train ; it appears at firll like milk, but turns to a pale colour in a few days ; its tafte is tartiih, and apt to feize the head if drank in any quantity ; after fome time it turns four, and makes very good vinegar. The wine or hquor called by the Brazilians Aipy, is made two different ways : firft, the flices of the root Aipimakakara, a kind of mandioka, are chewed by old women till they are as fluid as a pap, which they call Karaku ; this they put in a pot, and boil it with a good quantity of water, ftirring it continually till they think it fit for expreffion, which done, they call it Kaviaraku, and drink it luke-warm. Or elfe they take the fame root purged and fliced in thin pieces, which they ftamp and boil with water as before, which produces a whitifh hquor, not unlike our butter-milk or whey ; they drink it likewife warm, its tafte being agreeable enough ; they call it Kacimakaxera, though both kinds are generally comprehended under the name of Aipy. The liquor called Pakoby is made out of the fruit of the tree Pakobete. What the Portuguefe call Vinho da Millo, is a liquor called Abaty by the Brazilians, and made of barley and Turkey wheat, called maize by the Indians ; the liquor Nandi has alfo derived its name from that excellent fruit called Nana of Ananas, being the ftrongeft of all their wines or cyders. There is another fort of liquor called Vinho da Batatas by the Portuguefe, becaufe it is made of the root Batatas : the natives call it Jetici. Thus the liquors called Beeutingui and Tipiaci, are both made out of the farinha of the mandioka root, viz. of the Beju and Tepioja. The Brazilians are alfo great admirers of French or Rhenifh brandy, called by them Kacitata, and fwallow it very greedily as often as they can come at it. They are no lefs fond of tobacco, the herb of which they call Petima, and the leaves Petimaoba. After they have dried the leaves in the air, they lay them before the fire, to render them the more fit for cutting. They fmoke in pipes made of the flieli of the nut Pin- doba, or of the Urukuruiba, focara. Aqua, or fuch like ; to wit, they cut a hole in one end of the (hell, take out the kernel, and, after they have pohfhed them, put a wooden pipe or piece of reed in the hole. The Tapoyers ufe very large pipes made of ftone, wood, or clay, the holes of which are fo big, that they contain a handful of tobacco at a time. Sometimes the Brazilians make ufe of our European pipes, called by them Amrupetunbuaba, and Broken Katunbaba by the Portuguefe, and Katgebouw by the Dutch. Whenever the Tapoyers, efpecially thofe inhabiting the villages, de- fcended from the Tapoyers called Kariri, prepare the liquors Akavi and Aipy, it is done at the fame time ; then a day being appointed for a general merry-meeting, they meet early in the morning at the firft houfe of the village they belong to, where they confume moft of the liquor, and make themfelves merry with dancing ; this done, they go to the next houfe, where they play the fame game, and fo from houfe to houfe, till nothing be left or they can drink no longer. When they find themfelves over- charged with liquor, they fpew, and fall to drinking again ; and thus, he who can fpew and drink moft, is accounted the braveft fellow of the company. Of the coaft of Brazil. On the north-weft coaft of Brazil are feveral confiderable falt-pits : that near the houfe called the Defert, is about ihree or four leagues diftant from the river Aguarana, of which one branch extends to the eaft, and difcharges its water in this falt-pit with a fpring-tide, which is here commonly with the new moon. It is about five hundred and fifty paces from 870 nieuhoff's brazil. from the fea-fliore, and receives no other water but from the river Aguarama. There is no bay or harbour near it, but only a flat fandy bottom for about half a league dif- tance from the fliore, where you may anchor at three fathom deep. ^ The land-wind which conftantly blows on this coaft, commonly ceafes towards evening, fo that the veffels take the opportunity of the night to load fait. This falt-pit produces every month a certain quantity of fait, provided they be careful to ihut their fluices as foon as the fame is filled with water, for elfe they are in danger of lofing what they had got before, by the next high-tide. To the eaft of this falt-pit are the famous rocks called Baxos, which at low-water may be feen from thence ; they extend about three leagues deep in the fea, but do not begin till about a league from the fliore, betwixt which and the rocks there is a paflage, where you have ten foot depth at low-water. It ebbs here with the loweft tide about eight foot, and a weft-fouth-wefl: wind raifes the water to the highefl. About five or fix leagues to the wefl: of the houfe called the Defert, is the great falt- pit Karwaratama, which receiving its water from the fea, and being detained by fluices, produces very good fait in three weeks' time. Five leagues further to the wefl: is the river Maritouva, the fecond in rank in thofe wefl:ern parts, but has not above twelve foot water at high-tide. On its eafl: point, not above half a league within the mouth, is a very convenient falt-pit: thefe falt-pits are computed to be manageable with the afllftance only of ten or twelve negroes, ten chriflians, and about thirty Brazilians, and to aftbrd two thoufand tuns of fait per annum, which may be tranfported from thence into the other parts of the Dutch Brazil in fmall barks, during the fummer feafon. About half way betwixt Rio Grande and Siara, as likewife in Siara, near the river Wapanien, are likewife feveral Salinas or falt-pits. The chief traffic of Brazil confiflis in fugar. Brazil-wood, and fuch like ; as alfo in tobacco, hides, preferves, ginger, and cotton, which grows wild here; fome indigo was Hkewife planted there before my departure ; but among thefe, the fugar and Brazil- wood are fl:aple commodities. For fince the tobacco began to be tranfported into Holland from the American iflands, the planting of it was negledled in Brazil, where labourers' wages being exceflive high, they could draw much more profit from the fugar, of which, according to computation, betwixt twenty and twenty-five thoufand cherts were yearly made only in the fugar-mills of the Dutch Brazil, if the harveft proves very good. The inhabitants of Brazil may at prefent be divided into free-born fubjefts and flaves; and thefe again confifl: of divers nations, both natives and foreigners. The free inha- bitants of Brazil were the Dutch, Portugnefe, and Brazilians, the laft, the natives of the country. But the Portuguefe did not only furpafs all the refl:, at leaft ten to one in number, during my abode in Brazil, but alfo were in pofleflion of all the fugar-mills and lands, except what was poflTeflTed by a very few Dutch, who had applied them- felves to fugar-planting, but were for the mofl: part ruined by the intefl:ine war, being forced to leave all behind them in the country : befides thofe of the free inhabitants, who made it their bufinefs to manure the grounds, there were many merchants, faftors, and handicrafts-men : the merchants fold their commodities generally with vafl: profit, and would have queftionlefs been rich men, had they not vended their goods upon credit to the Portuguefe, who were refolved never to pay them, as the event has fuffi- ciently ftiewn. The handicrafts-men were able to get three, four, five, nay, fix gilders a day, fo that many returned very rich to Holland. Thofe that kept public- houfes and chandler-fhops were likewife great gainers here, and carried oft" abundance of ready money. The ofEcers in the company's fervice whether civil or military, were likewife nieuhoff's brazil. 871 likewife punftually paid, which made many who had lived in the country before the beginning of the civil war, and had ferved the company before, take fervice again, who were all entertained according to their refpeftive qualities and former ftations. Among the free inhabitants of Brazil that w^ere not in the company's fervice, the Jews were the mod confiderable in number, who had tranfplanted themfelves thither from Holland. They had a vaft traffic beyond all the reft ; they purchafed fugar-mills and built ftately houfes in the Receif. They were all traders, which would have been of great confequence to the Dutch Brazil, had they kept themfelves within the due bounds of traffic. The flaves of Dutch Brazil were either negroes or natives of the country ; the lafl of which were either bought in Maranhaon being prifoners of war, or from the Tapoyers, who likewife had made them captives, and otherwife, according to their cuftom, would have put them to death. For it being refolved immediately, at the firft entrance of the Dutch in Brazil, that none of the natives fhould be made flaves (except they were either bought from the Tapoyers or brought from Maranhaon) the Brazilians were fettled in certain villages to enjoy their own liberty under certain limitations, and permiffion was given them to affift the Portuguefe in the management of their mills and grounds, for certain wages appointed for that purpofe ; by which means many Alicas or villages were filled with Brazilians in Parayba and Rio Grande, who during the time of our government enjoyed the fweets of a perfeft liberty. Vaft numbers of negroes of divers nations were entertained in the Receif, and the open country, for the manuring of the ground, and working in the fugar-mills of the Portuguefe, which could not be done without them, by reafon of the extremity of the heat of the climate, and the incredible toils they are fain to undergo ; fo that in my time near forty thoufand negroes were employed in the fugar-mills betwixt Rio Grande and St. Francifco. Moft of thefe negroes are brought hither from the king- doms of Congo, Angola, and Guinea; a black fliining {kin, flat nofe, thick lips, and fhort-curled hair, is their chief beauty. The luftieft and moft laborious ufed in time of good trade to be fold in Brazil for feventy, eighty, or one hundred pieces of eight, nay, fometlmes for one thoufand four hundred or one thoufand five hundred gilders, but thefe underftood fomething more than ordinary : but when trade began to decay, they were fold for forty pieces of eight. There was fcarce a Hollander of any fub- ftance but what had feveral of thefe flaves. They are moft miferably and beaftly treated by the Portuguefe, though at the fame time it muft be confefled that it is abfolutely neceffary they fliould be kept under a ftritl difcipline ; for they are full of rogueries, fuperftitious to the higheft degree, and forcerers : they would often pre- tend to tell us what fliips were at fea from Holland for Brazil, though they were yet on the other fide of the line, and how to recover ftolen goods. I remember I hap- pened once to be at a friend's houfe of mine, when I faw an old negro enter the kitchen, who came thither to cure a negro-flave of his illnefs, which he told us was occafioned by witchcraft. He made the patient rife from his chair, and taking a piece of wood from the fire-hearth, he ordered him to lick three times with his tongue that end which was burning-hot with the glowing coals. The fame end of the wood he afterwards extinguiflied in a bafon of water, and rubbed the coals in it, till it turned as black as ink. This he ordered the fick negro to drink off" at a draught, which he did accordingly, and was immediately feifed with a flight griping in the guts. This done he rubbed both his fides, and taking hold with his hand of a piece of flefli and fet above the hip, he made an incifion there with a knife he pulled out of his pocket, of two inches deep, out of which he drew a bundle of hair and rags, with a little of the 872 nieuhoff's brazil. the black water that was left he wafhed the wound, which foot! after was healed, and the patient cured. They are very dexterous at fwimming and diving, and will fetch a fingle piece of eight from the bottom of the fea, where it is very deep. They are alfo excellent filhermen, and get a great deal of money by it. They tie three or four great pieces of wood together, this they manage with one oar, and upon it go a good way into the fea, where they catch great quantities of filh with their hooks, and fo return. It happened in my time, that a certain negro, who was very expert in fifliing, was fold three times in a little while ; this he took fo much to heart, that the next time he went thus out a fifliing, he tied a ftone to his leg and drowned himfelf. Another negro having conceived a hatred againft his mafter cut his throat, cut out his tongue, and made a houfe of office of his mouth, according to his own confeffion ; he was broken alive upon the wheel, which he endured with an incredible obltinacy. A negro woman was brought to bed in my time of a child, the hair and Ikin of which were not black, but red. I faw alfo a young lad born from negro parents, whofe Ikin was white, and his hair and eye-brows the Hke, but curled, with a flat nofe like the other negroes. Sometimes I have feen old negroes with long grey beards and hair, which looks very fine. The natives of Brazil confifts of divers nations, diftinguifhed by their proper names, to wit, the Tubinambos, Tobajaras, Petiguaras, and Tapuijas, or Tapuyers, or Tapoy- ers. The three firfl ufe one and the fame language, and differ only in the dialed: ; but the laft are fubdivided into feveral nations, differing both in manners and tongue. The Brazilian men, which lived among us and the Portuguefe, are middle-fized, ftrong and well-made, with broad fhoulders. They have black eyes, a wide mouth, with black curled hair, and a flat nofe ; the lafl: of which is not natural to them, but the parents, looking upon it as a great beauty, fqueeze their children's nofes flat, whilft they are very young. They paint their bodies, and fome likewife their faces vdth divers colours ; they have generally no hair about their mouth, though fome have black beards. Their women are likewife of a middle fl:ature, well Umbed, and not ill-featured ; they have likewife a black hair, but are not born black, but by the heat of the fun-beams acquire by degrees a yellow brown colour. The Brazilians come foon to maturity, and arrive to a great age, and that without diftempers ; they alfo feldom become grey, which is likewife obfervable in many European inhabitants "here, who come to the age of one hundred or one hundred and twenty years. This mufl: be chiefly attributed to the temperature of the climate, which is fuch, that in former times many Spaniards that laboured under fome lingering difl:emper, whether in Spain or the Eafl: Indies, ufed to come to Brazil to partake of the benefit of that excellent air and water ; it is true, moft of the children of foreigners are troubled with lingering fickneffes, fo that fcarce one in three arrives to a fl:ate of manhood ; but this mufl not be attributed to the air, but rather to the bad nourifliment. Few cripples or crooked people are to be met with among the Brazilians, they being gene- rally very ftraight and nimble, which is the more admirable, becaufe they never do their children up in fwathling cloaths, except their feet, looking upon it as unwholefome. Before the Dutch got footing in Brazil, the Portuguefe had made all the natives their flaves, and looked upon it as the greateft piece of policy quite to extirpate them, which they did fo effeftually, that whereas about one hundred years ago, the captain- fhips of Rio Grande alone could raife one hundred thoufand fighting men, fcarce three hundred were to be met within 1645 ^° 1646, which had created a mortal hatred in the Brazilians agaiufl: the Portuguefe ; though it mufl alfo be confefl'ed, that the late war and fome epidemical diftempers did fweep away many of the natives. The nieuhoff's brazil. 873 The remainders of them lived in certain Aldens or villages affigned them for that purpofe, where they had their plantations ; befides which they ferved the Portuguefe in their fugar-mills for a certain monthly pay, which furnifhed them with clothes and other neceffaries. Their huts are made only of wooden flalks, covered with palm-tree leaves. They cannot endure the yoke of flavery, nor any toil, efpecially the Tapoy- ers ; they live very quietly among one another, unlefs they get drunk, when- they fometimes fing and dance day and night. Drunkennefs is a vice belonging to both fexes here, of which they are fo fond, as to be paft remedy, though this occafions often quarrels and other enormous vices among them. They are likewife much addifted to dancing, which they call Guau ; they have feveral ways of dancing, one of which is called Urukapi ; they commonly fing whilfl: they are dancing. The children divert themfelves with divers forts of games, one is called Kurupirara, another Guaibipaie, and a third Guaibiquaibibuku. They will fleep fometimes a whole day and night, and would not flir then if they did not want viftuals. Near their hammocks they keep a fire day and night, in the day to drefs their viftuals, in the night to allay the rawnefs of the air, which here is colder than in moft parts of Europe, becaufe day and night is almofl of an equal length here throughout the year. The inland Brazilians of both fexes go quite naked, without the leaft covering. But thofe inhabiting nearer to the fea-fhore, who converfe with the Dutch and Portuguefe, wear only a fhirt of hnen or calico ; though, in my time, fome of the chiefeft among them began to take a pride to clothe themfelves after the European manner. The wife conftantly follows her hufband wherever he goes, even in the war. He carries nothing but his arms, but the poor woman is loaden like a mule or fumpter-horfe. For befides a great bafket which is tied to her back (called by them Patigua), fhe has another upon her head, with all the houfehold fl;ufF in it, or a great bafket with flour ; befides which, feveral other fmaller veffels hang on both fides, wherewith they take up water for their drinking. The child is carried in a piece of calico, which is faflened to her, and hangs down from her right fhculder. It lies there, with its legs wide open, one being ftretched acrofs the mother's belly, the other over her fhoulder. After all this, fhe carries a parrot or ape in one hand, and leads a dog in a firing with the other. Thus they proceed on their journey, without any farther provifion, except a fmall quantity of farinha ; the hedge or open fields ferve inftead of inns, which furnifh them with neceffary food, as the rivers and fprings with drink ; and fo does the tree called Karageata, which contains always fome rain-water within the hollownefs of its leaves, to the great relief of travellers, who, in fome barren places, do often not meet with a river or fpring for twelve leagues together. Towards night they hang their hammocks on trees, or elfe fallen them to flalks neatly ; they make a fire to drefs their victuals ; and againft the ram defend themfelves with palm-tree leaves. When they are at home, the hufband goes commonly in the morning abroad with his bow and arrow, to fhoot fome wild beafl, or catch birds, or elfe to the fea-fide, or next river a fifhing, whilfl the women are employed in the plantations ; fome women go abroad with their hufbands, and carry home the prey. The wild-beafts are caught by them in a different manner ; fome they kill with arrows, others they catch in pits dug for that purpofe, and covered with the leaves of trees, under which is hidden fome carrion, the fcent of which draws them to the pit ; this they call Petaku. They make alfo certain wooden traps, and ufe divers other ways of catching the wild beafts, each of which they diflinguifti by their proper names. To catch birds they ufe three forts of fnares or nets, called by them Jukana ; the firfl fort catches the birds by the feet, this they call Jukanabiprara ; the fecond entangles them by the neck, which they call VOL. XIV. _5 T Jukana. §74 nieuhoff's brazil. Jukanajuprara ; the third enfnares their bodies, called by them Jukanapitereba. They kill the fiflies with arrows, or catch them with filhing-hooks, their baits being com- monly worms, crabs, .or fome fmall fiflics. They bait the water where they intend to fifli, with the leaves of Japikai, or with Timpotiana, Tinguy, or with Tinguiri ; fome- times with the fruit called Kururuape, the root Magui, or the bark of the tree Anda, which make the fifli fwim on the furface of the water like dead, when they take them with a kind of a fieve, called by them Urupema, made of cane or reed, which they eall Uruguiboandipia. Their fea-fifli they catch with iron hooks, the bait being fomc carrion; they go a good way into the fea, only upon three pieces of wood faftencd together, which they call Igapeda, and the Portuguefe, Jangada ; the wood is com- monly of the tree Apiba. The Brazilians are not burthened with much houfe'iiold ftuft', their hammocks being their chiefell care in this kind ; they call ihem Ini, are wrought of cotton like net- work, of about fix or feven foot long, and four broad. When they are going to fleep, they faften them either to two beams of their huts, or elfe in the open air to two trees, and fome diftance from the ground, for fear of fome obnoxious creatures, and to avoid the peftiferous exhaladons of the earth. The Tapoyers, called Kariri, have very large hammocks, of twelve or fourteen foot long, which contain four perfons at a time. The Portuguefe women make fome very fine hammocks, wrought with divers figures in them. In lieu of diflies and cups they ufe the Kalabaffek, cut in the middle, which are painted without with a certain red colour, called Uruku, and ^^■Ithin with black. Their cans, cups, and mugs, are likewife Kalaballes of divers kinds, called Kuite, Jaroba, and Kribuka. One of the biggeft of thefe kalabaffes hold thirty or thirty-five quarts ; this the Brazilians call Kuyaba, but wiien cut through the mid- dle it is called Kuipeba. The poorer fort make certain knives they call Ituque, of {lone, as alfo of cane, which they call Taquoaquia, but the better fort ufe Dutch knives. Their bafkets they make of palm-tree leaves, they call them Patigua ; they have alfo fome made of reed or cane, thefe are with one general name called Kara- memoa. They make alfo large broad bafkets of reeds and branches twilled together : thefe they call Panaku, and are chiefly ufed for the carrying of the mandioka root. In their journeys they always make ufe of the patigua, but the panaku is ufed by the flaves and negroes in the Receif for the conveniency of carriage. The arms of the Brazilians are only bows, arrows, and wooden clubs. Their bows, which they call Guirapara and Virapara, are made of very hard wood, called Guira- pariba and Virapaiiba : the bow-firings are made of cotton twilled, and by them called Guirapakuma ; the darts they call Uba, and are made of wild cane. The points of thefe darts are either of wood hardened, or of fifh teeth called Jacru, or of bones or cane well fharpened ; fome have feveral points, others but one. Being not in the leaft acquainted with arithmetic, they compute the number of their years and age by the chefnuts which grow on the fruit Akaju, which chefnuts they call Akaguakaya, as likewife Akajuti and Itamabara, of which they lay one by every year, this tree producing fruit but once each feafon, viz. in December and January. They begin the computation of their years with the rife of a certain flar, called by them Taku, or the Rain-flar, which is always there in May ; they alfo call the year by the fame name. The mod barbarous of the Brazilians inhabiting the inland countries fcarce know any thing of rehgion, or an Almighty Being. They have fome knowledge remaining of a general deluge, it being their opinion, that the whole race of mankind were extir- pated by a general deluge, except one man and his own filler, who being with child before. nieuhoff's brazix. 875 before, they by degrees re-peopled the world. They know not what God is, nay, they have no word exprefling the fame, unlefs it be Tuba, which fignifies as much as fomething moft excellent above the reft ; thus they call the thunder Tubakununga, i. e. a noife made by the Supreme Excellency, for Akununga impHes as much as a noife. They are unacquainted with heaven or hell, though they have a tradition among them, that the fouls do not die with the bodies, but that they are either tranfplanted into devils or fpirits, or elfe enjoy a great deal of pleafure with dancing and finging in fome pleafant fields, which they fay are behind the mountains. Thefe fields are en- joyed by all the brave men and women, who have killed and eaten many of their enemies ; but fuch as have been idle, and never did any thing of moment, are tor- tured by the devil, unto whom they give many names, viz. Anhanga, Jurupari, Ku- rupari, Taguaiba, Temoti, Taubimama. They have, however, fome fort of priefts among them, whofe bufinefs is to facrifice, and to foretel things to come ; thefe are efpecially confulted when they are to undertake a war or journey ; they call them Paye and Pey. They dread fpirits to the higheft degree ; they call them Kuripira, Taguai, Macachara, Anhanga, Jurapari, and Marangigona, though under difterent fignifications : for kuripira implies as much as the god of the mind or heart ; macachara, the god or patron of travellers ; jurupari and anhanga fignify the devil ; marangigona implies as much as the manes or remainders of the foul after death, which are fo much dreaded by the Brazilians, that fome of them, upon an imaginary apparition of them, have been ftruck with fudden death. They do not perform any worfhip or ceremony to thofe fpirits, except that fome pretend to appeafe their wrath by certain prefents they faften to certain ftakes fixed in the ground for that purpofe. Some of the BraziUans acknowledge the thunder for the Supreme Being, others the Leffer Bear in the firma- ment, others fome other ftars. The Potiguaras, a nation among the Brazilians, are accounted fuch forcerers, that they bewitch their enemies even to death : they call this manner of witchcraft Anbamombikoab. The Brazilians that lived among the Portu- guefe and Dutch, did in fome meafure follow the Chriftian doflrine, but fo coldly, that few, when they come to an advanced age, fhew much zeal for it ; becaufe the fundamental articles of our faith are not eafily imprinted in them, unlefs in their tender years, and when they are remote from their parents. However, feveral of the Dutch minifters, viz. Mr. Doreflaer, and after him Mr. Thomas Kemp, have had good fuccefs in converting many of the Brazilians in the Aldeas or villages where they preached, the laft of thefe two being well verfed in the Brazilian tongue. Neither were Dionyfius Bifcareta, an honeft old Caftilian, and Johannes Apricius, lefs remifs in performing their duty to inftru6t thefe infidels. There were iikewife three Dutch fchool-mafters among them, who taught their young people to read and to write, but thefe were forced to leave their aldeas or villages during the laft inteftine commotions raifed by the Portuguefe. Many diftempers which are common in Europe are unknown in Brazil : they ufe nothing but fimple remedies, and laugh at our compofitions. They are very dextrous in applying their remedies, efpecially their antidotes : they draw blood by fusion with horn-cups, by fcarification, or opening a vein ; inftead of a lancet they ufe the tooth of a lamprey, called by them Kakaon, without which nobody ftirs abroad. So foon as any one ot their acquaintance is fallen ill, they all meet, each offering his remedy, which he has found good by his own experience : then they begin to cut and flice the moft mufculous parts of the body, either with the thorns of the tree Karnaiba, or with filhes teeth, till they have drawn as much blood as they think fit, and for that purpofe fuck the wounds with their mouths, by which means they pretend to draw all ill 5x2 humours 876 nieuhoff's buazil. humours from the afFefted part. Vomiting they procure by means of the leaves kar- naiba, which being twifted together, they force down the patient's throat. When all thefe pretended remedies prove ineffedual, they proceed to no others ; but after fome coTifultations, quite defpairing of his recovery, knock him on the head with their clubs, looking upon it more glorious to be thus bravely delivered from their mifery, than to expeft death till their laft gafp. They exercife as much barbarity upon the dead carcafles of their friends as of their enemies ; upon the firfl out of love, againfl the laft out of revenge ; for they tear them to pieces with their teeth, and eat the flefh like a dainty bit. The Brazilian women are extremely fruitful, have very eafy labours, and rarely mifcarry : for no fooner is a woman delivered, but up fhe gets to the next river, and without any farther help wafhes herfelf there : in the meanwhile the hufband keeps the bed for the firfl twenty-four hours, and is made as much of as if he had been lately brought to bed. The mothers lament the death of their infants with howling and crying for three or four days. They receive their friends after a long journey with open arms and tears, and beat- ing their foreheads againft their breafls, in remembrance of the misfortunes they have undergone during their abfence. Though the Brazilians were always fuppofed to be defcended from the race of men-eaters, yet by their converfation with us and other nations, many of them have laid afide their barbarity, and are become as affable and civilized as moll of the European nations. The Tapoyers inhabit the inland country of Brazil to the wefl of thefe countries in the pofTefTion of the Portuguefe and Dutch, betwixt Rio Grande and the river Siara, as far as Rio St. Francifco. They are divided into feveral nations, diflinguifhed both by their language and names : for the Tapoyers bordering upon the utmoft confines of Pernambuko, are called Kariri, under their king Cerioukejou ; the next to them the Karirivafu, whofe king was Karopoto ; then the Kariryou, and fo farther the Tararyou ; the lafl of which were befl known unto us ; Janduy or John Duwy being their king ; though fonie of them lived under the jurifdiftion of one Karakara. Divers were go- verned by other kings, viz. Prityaba, Arigpaygn, Wahafewajug, Tiering, and Dremenge. Thofe under king John Duwy inhabit to the weft beyond Rio Grande, but change their habitations pretty often : about November, December, and January, when the fruit Kajou begins to ripen, they come towards the fea-fide, becaufe little of it is to be met with in the inland countries. The Tapoyers are very tall and flrong of body, ex- ceeding both the Brazilians and Dutch both in flrength and tallnefs by the head and fhoulders. They are of a dark brown colour, black hair, which hangs all over their fhoulders, they only fhaving it on the forehead as far as to the ears. Some are fhaved according to the European fafhion ; the reft of their bodies they keep without hair, even without eye-brows. Their kings and great men are diftinguifhed from the vulgar by the hair of their heads and their nails ; the firfl, their kings, were fhaved in the Ihape of a crown, and have very long nails on their thumbs ; but the king's relations or other officers of note, wear long nails on all their fingers, except their thumbs ; for long nails is accounted a peculiar ornament among them. The Tapoyers are very ftrong ; prince Maurice being one time in a humour to try their ftrength and fkil! in fighting with a wild bull, caufed one to be brought within his ward court, which was furrounded with palifadoes, in order to engage two Tapoyers appointed for that purpofe. There was a great concourfe of people to fee this fpeftacle, when on a fudden two Tapoyers (the reft with their wives being only fpeftators) came in ftark naked, without any other arms but their bows and arrows. The bull faw them no fooner 1 1 enter. nieuhoff's brazil. 877 enter, but he made towards them, who being extremely nimble, avoided the flrokes he made at them with great dexterity, and in the meanwhile fo galled his flanks with their arrows, that the beafl: roared mofl: terribly, and being all in a foam, fet upon them with all his vigour, which they avoided by retiring every foot behind a tree that flood in the middle of the court, and from thence continued to pierce his fides with their darts, till finding the beafl begin to languifh by the lofs of blood, one of the Tapoyers got upon his back, and laying hold of his horns, threw him upon the ground, and being feconded by his comrade, they both killed the bull, roafted him under- ground with a fire above it, according to their cuflom, and feafled upon their meat, with the other Tapoyers there prefent. The Tapoyers of both fexes, from the king to the common fellow, go quite naked, only that the men hide their privities, by tying the yard in a little bag or net made of the bark of trees ; this they clofe up with a fmall ribbon called Takoayn- haa ; upon occafion they untie it, and are more cautious in expofing their privities than feme of the Europeans : in the fame manner do the refl of the Brazilians in- habiting the inland countries. The women of the Tapoyers cover their privities only with a handful of herbs, or a fmall branch of a tree, with the leaves on them : this they thruft barely under a fmall cord or rope which is faflened round their middle like girdles : in the fame manner they cover their backs, but fo carelefsly, that both be- fore and behind, great part of both is expofed to view ; they change it every day. The men wear alfo a kind of garland made ^of the feathers of the bird Guara or Kaninde, upon their heads, from which certain feathers of the tail of the bird Arara, or Ivamud, hang down behind upon the back ; fome only tie a cotton firing round their hands, in which fome red or blue feathers are faflened behind ; this they call Akan- buafaba. They have alfo cloaks made of cotton thread, and woven like a net ; in each of the holes they flick a red feather of the bird Guara, and intermix them \vith black, green, and yellow feathers of the birds Aakukara, Kazinde, and Arara, which lie as clofe together as fifli fcales : there is a kind of cap on the infide of this cloak, which with the refl covers the head, fhoulders, and the body, fomewhat below the middle, fo that it is worn both for ornament and conveniency's fake, it being proof againfl the rain ; they call thefe cloaks in their tongue Guara Abuku. They alfo fallen certain combs of birds with wild honey to their foreheads, thefe they call Aguana. If their fathers or mothers die, they pull every hair out of their heads ; they have holes in their ears fo big, that you may thruft a finger into them ; in this they wear either a bone of an ape called Nambipaya, or elfe a piece of wood, wrapt up in cotton thread. The men have holes in their under-lips, in which they wear either a cryftal, fmaragd, or jafper, of the bignefs of a hazel-nut : this ftone they call Metara, and if it be green or blue, Metarobi ; but they are moft fond of the green ones : they have alfo holes in their cheeks on each fide of the mouth ; in thefe the married men wear a piece of wood of the bignefs and thicknefs of a good goofe-quill : fometimes they wear a ftone in it called Tembekoareta : in the holes of their noftrils, fome have alfo fuch like flicks of wood, which they call Apiyata : their bodies are all over painted with a certain juice of brown colour, fqueezed out of the apple Janipapa ; this is even ufed among the women and children. Befides this, they ftick feathers of divers colours with wild-honey or maftick to the Ikin of their bodies, which make them ap- pear at a diftance Hke large birds ; this they call Akamongui. Thus they adorn their arms with garlands made of red and yellow feathers of feveral birds, called Aguami- ranga ; fometimes they mix corals among them, which they call Arakoaya. They make 878' nieuhofp's brazil. make alfo a kind of bracelets of the rind of the fruit Aguay ; thefe they wear roun' their legs, and make a noife when they are dancing. Their fhoes are made of thi bark Kuragua, and call them Miapakabas. Some nations of the Tapoyers ufe no bow- er arrows, but throw their darts with their hands, but the Kariri have bows. Their club; are made of very hard wood, are broad on the top, and full of teeth or bones, wel! fharpened at the end. Round the handle they wind a piece of calico, or fome othei fluff, and at the end a bufh of feathers of the tail of the bird Arara ; fuch another bulh is faftened round the middle ; they call them Atirabebe and Jatirabebe. Their trumpets, which they Kanguenka, are made of men's bones ; but thofe called Nhum- bugaku, which are much larger, are of horn ; they have alfo another fort made of cane, called Meumbrapara. The Tapoyers are ndt fo good foldiers as the reft of the Brazilians, for upon any fmart encounter they truft to their feet, and run away with incredible fwiftnefs. They neither fow nor plant, not as much as the mandioka root, their common food being fruits, roots, herbs, and wild beafts, and fometimes v/ild honey, which they take out of the hollow trees. Among all other roots they are ex- tremely fond of a certain kind of wild mandioka root, which rifes up to the height of a fmall tree. Its Hem and leaves referable the other mandioka root, but it is not near fo good ; the inland BraziHans call it Cuguaguremia, but thofe inhabiting near the fea-fhore Cua9umandiiba. They eat alfo men's flefh ; for if a woman happens to mifcarry, they eat the child im- mediately, alledging that they cannot beftow a better grave upon it than the belly, from whence it came. The Tapoyers lead a kind of vagabond life, like fome of the Arabians, though they always remain within their certain bounds, within the compafs of which they change their habitations according to the different feafons of the year ; they dwell for the mofl part among the woods, and live upon hunting, in which perhaps they ex- cel all other nations ; for they will (hoot a bird flying with their arrows. So foon as a woman has conceived, fhe abftains from her huftand ; after fhe is brought to bed, flie goes into the next wood, where fhe cuts the child's navel ftring, with a fhell, boils it afterwards with the after-burthen, and eats them both. She walhes herfelf and the child every morning and evening, neither does her hufband keep her company, as long as {he gives fuck, unlefs he has but one wife. If a woman be difcovered to have had an unlawful commerce with another man, her hufband turns her away, but if they are catched in the aft, he may kill them both. The mothers take extraordinary care that the nuptials of their daughters are not confummated until after they have had their monthly times, which they give notice of to their phyficians, and thefe to the king, who then gives them licence to go to bed with the bridegroom, who pays his acknowledgement to her mother, for the care fhe has taken of her daughter. If a young maiden be marriageable, and yet not courted by any, the mother paints her with fome red colour about the eyes, and thus carries her to the king, who orders her to fit down near him upon a carpet, and blows the fmoak of tobacco in her face *. For the reft of the Tapoyers, are the worft of all the other Brazilians, being ignorant of any thing that relates to God or religion ; neither will they receive any inftrudion of that kind. They have certain priefts or ra- ther forcerers, who pretend to foretel things to come, and to raife fpirits, which they fay appear to them in the fhape of a fly, or any fuch like infed : when thefe fpirits dis- appear, the women make moft horrible cries and lamentations, in which confifts the main point ot their devotion : they avoid night-journeys, for fear of ferpents and other venomous creatures, neither will they fet on a journey until the dew be dried up by the * A very indelicate pafTage is omitted, fun- nieuhoff's brazil. 879 fun-beams Several nations of the Tapoyers, efpecially thofe un(3er king John Duwy, lived alvvas in a good correfpondence v/ith the Dutch, unto whom they afforded at divers time confiderable affift ance ; though they did not fubmit to their jurifdiction, but were govmed by their own kings. King John Duwy had fixty children by fifty wives, though foietimes he had not above fourteen wives at a time ; thefe Tapoyers having a mortal ha'ed to the Portuguefe, ufed to kill them wherever they could meet with them. And thus luch may fuffice concerning the, manners, way of living, cloaths, &c. of the natives of i>razil ; I vv'ill now proceed to give you an account of my voyage back into Holland. Being .-nfible, as I told you before, that things grew worfe and worfe every day with us hie, I with inuch ado got leave to depart, and accordingly the 23d of July 1 649, I v.-nt aboard the fhip called the Union, manned with eighty failors, under the command f Captain Albert Jams, a native of Groningen. We fet fail the fame day in company : the Blue Eagle, and a yacht called the Brazilian. We left the city of Olin- da to the Juth-vfeft in the evening ; the 25th we were under t,'' 6' with a north-north- eafb courl : we failed that day about twenty-eight leagues. The next day we paffed the line, ith very fair weather and wind ; we continued our courfe without any re- markable ccident until the firft of Auguft, when about noon we found ourfelves un- der 9° 46 having failed tvvfenty-nine leagues in the laft twenty-four hours. The fame evening w faw the firft time the north pole ftar, after we had paffed the line. The 2d of Augul we failed twenty-three leagues with a frelh gale, and found ourfelves under 11° 13'. We continued this our courfe with a fair wind, until the 16th of Auguft, when we ^'ere becalmed ; we did not advance above fixty leagues that day ; being un- der 26" ^e found it exceeding hot. The 20th of Auguft we had but a flender fouth- eaft wind we found ourfelves under 29^ 45' ; we were fo much troubled with heat, for want of te cool winds, that the knives in the cabin were fo hot, that nobody could hold the: in his bare hands, nor any one could touch the deck of the fhip with his hands o feet. We continued our courfe thus until the 29th, when being under 38° 46', -e made about eight leagues that day. The 3d of September, being under the 40° rf', we efpied a fail, which we found to be a veffel bound for Virginia. To- wards evning we were forced to ftay fome time for the Brazilian yacht, fhe having loft one c her mafts. The next following day in the morning we difcovered the ifland of Corfc whither we diiefted our courfe. Corfu nd Floris are two of the nine iflands the Dutch commonly call the Flemming Iflands. The biggeft is Tercera, being about fixteen leagues in compafs. It is very rocky, bi fruitful, producing a confiderable quantity of oxen, and abounding in Canary and othc birds. Here is a fpring that turns wood into ftone, and feveral hot-fprings, in which ou may boil an egg. The ground feems to be full of concavities, which is the reafo of the many earthquakes here, which overturn and deftroy houfes, men and beafts. "he ifland called the Peake has a rock which reaches to the very clouds, and which, 7. fome fuppofe, may be parallelled for its height to the peake of the Canary Ifland itiif. Betwixt the coaft of Brazil and the faid iflands, the compafs bears due fouth an north. We were gone eight degrees farther to the weft, than we intended. About non we found ourfelves under 40^ 34'. We continued our courfe without any remarkale accident, until the i6th of September, when we fuppofed ourfelves to be not far iom land, which we difcovered the fame evening to the north-north-eaft of us. The 171 we were becalmed, and catched more fifh than we were able to eat. The 1 8th we lifcovered the Ifle of Wight to the north of us, whereabouts one of cur fhips was feprated from us j not long after we faw the point of Dover. The 19th we paffed 3 by 88o nieuhoff's brazil. by Dunkirk and Oflend with a briflc gale, and about noon fafely arrived in the road of Fluffingen. I got immediately afhore, and after having refreflied myfelf for five days, I went to Middleburgh, where I likewife continued five days. From thence I continued my journey over Dort, Rotterdam, Delft and Harlem, to the famous city of Amfterdam, from whence I undertook this Weft-India voyage 1640. From Amfterdam I went to Zwell, the birth-place of my father John Nieuhoff, and fo to Benthem, my native country, where I met ,with my parents in good health, after fo many fatigues of a tedious voyage ; whilft I was at Benthem my father died 1651, the 15 th of May, in the eighty-fifth year of his age, being lamented by all, by reafon of his good qualifications. Some troublefome people laid the lofs of the Dutch Brazil at the door of the mem- bers of the great council, viz. Henry Hamel, Adrian BuUeftraet and Peter Jande Bas, who left Brazil 1 647. It was alledged that the before-mentioned contrails made with the Portuguefe had given them great opportunity of a revolt ; for which it was fiid the faid members had received great fums of money ; but it being evident that the fucceed- ing members of the great council having taken cognifance of that affair before their de- parture, November 6, 1646, and in March 1647, they were fully cleared of thefe accu- fations, the fame having been tranfaded by fpecial orders of the council of Nineteen in Holland ; befides, that the revolts which were about the fame time in agitation in An- gola, Africa, and the ifland of Ceylon in the Eaft-Indies, where no fuch contrafts were made, do fufficiently teftify that the foundation of this inteftine war was laid in Portugal, long before the contracts were fet on foot. What is more furprifing is, how the Portu- guefe, confidering we were pretty well provided with forts and garrifons, durft think of fuch an attempt ; but the reafon is plain, for what they wanted in ftrength or otherwife, they were fupplied with from the Bahia. The motives that induced the Portuguefe to this revolt, were, the recovery of their liberty, the difference of their language and manners from ours, but efpecially of reli- gion, which our people had endeavoured to eftablifli in Brazil ; thefe, with fome other concurring circumftances, fuch as our prefent weaknefs, and the difpofition the ftates were in at that time, to be fairly rid of Brazil, gave them fufficient encouragement for this attempt. It has been the opinion of fome, that the firft fparks of this rebellion might foon have been quenched, by feizing fome of the heads of the Portuguefe fac- tion ; but it being apparent from the records, that nothing was left unattempted upon that account, though without any confiderable fuccefs, the fame cannot be imputed to the negleft of the government ; the true reafons of the lofs of Brazil were the flender garrifon, and the inconfiderable number of Dutch inhabiting there ; nothing being more obvious, than that a conquered country muft be maintained, either by a fufficient military force, or ftrong colonies ; the laft of which was the conftant practice of the ancient Romans, who, befides this, backed them with good armies to keep the con- quered nations in obedience. Another way of eftabliftiing themfelves in a conquered country, though a very barbarous one, was introduced by the Spaniards and Portuguefe in America, who, by deftroying the ancient inhabitants, and planting colonies of their own, faved themfelves the charge of keeping many forts and garrifons for their defence. Neither of thefe was fufficiently obferved by the Dutch, after their conqueft of the Dutch Brazil ; for, according to their agreement made with the Portuguefe, the laft were left in the entire and quiet poffeffion of all the fugar-mills, plantations, and grounds thereunto belonging, whereby the Dutch fubjects were, in a manner, excluded from getting any confiderable footing in the open country, efpecially, fince fuch of the fu- gar-mills as happened to fall into the company's hands, by forfeiture or otherwife, were fold promifcuoufly to both 'nations, and commonly at fuch excellive rates, that the Dutch NIEUHOFi's BRAZIL. 88 1 Dutch durft feldom venture upon them ; the taxes laid upon every thing belonging to the fugar-mills, and upon the fugar itfelf, being lb great, that little profit was to be reaped from thence, unlefs the fugar fold at a very dear rate ; whereas, on the con- trary, we ought, after the example of the Spaniards, to have endeavoured to draw our fubjeds into Brazil, by the granting of confiderable immunities of honour and other advantages. The military force of the Dutch in Brazil, was likewife not duly regarded ; for whereas according to a juil eflimate made in 1641, by Count Maurice, 7,076 men were abfolutely requifite to maintain the Dutch garrifons there, the States of Hol- land, initead of following his dlredions, did, after the conclufion of the ten years* truce with Portugal, order the great council of the Dutch Brazil to reduce their forces there to eighteen companies of one hundred and fifty men each, and, though feverai remonftrances were made upon that head to the contrary, the truth of which was veri- fied by the event ; yet the fuccours fent fi-om Holland arrived fo flowly, that after my departure things grew worfe and worfe every day, and the Dutch had loft all their ftrong holds 1654. For the Portuguefe began to blow up the Receif by fea, with fixteen fhips, and to befiege it by land 1653, in December, with fuch fuccefs, that our people being conftrained by hunger, and the garrifon refufmg to fight, were forced to furren- der the place with all its circumjacent forts to the enemy ; fnice which time the Portu- guefe have remained in the entire pofTeflion of Brazil ; the fame being confirmed to them by the peace made the 6th of Auguft 1660, betwixt Portugal and the States of the United Provinces, in which, among others, thefe following points were agreed upon : — That the Crown of Portugal fhall be obliged to pay to the States the fum of eighty tuns of gold, either in ready money or fugar, tobacco, or fait, or elfe aflign the faid money upon the Portuguefe cuftoms. That the places taken on each fide fhould remain to thofe who were then in pofTef- fion of them. And that a free trade fhould be allowed to the Dutch in Portugal, Africa, and Bra- zil, without paying any more cuftoms than the native Portuguefe. END Of VOL. XIV. Sirahan uid Freftoii, Piiniers-Sueet, Lunjuii. ^PfCl/!U ''^'^ V.H U8RMW