/ £ f * • ^jr\ • ‘ , ■' % i?A ■■■ ■/ Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2016 https://archive.org/details/handbooktocathedOOunse HAND-BOOK TO THE Cittjwkitl Cljitr tjr «f dig; WITH SOME ACCOUNT OF THE CONVENTUAL BUILDINGS, §C. S$c. Mttutrateii ht| <£ngrnnmgs rail irnmtii tylm-. THIRD EDITION. ELY: PUBLISHED BY THOMAS A. HILLS, BOOKSELLER MINSTER PLACE . Entered at Stationers'' Hall. TO THE VEEY KEV. GrEOEGrE PEACOCK, D.D. I3ean of 15lp, WHOSE SKILL AND EXERTIONS IN PROMOTING THE CAREFUL RESTORATIONS OF THE CATHEDRAL, AND WHOSE ATTENTION TO THE INTERESTS AND WELFARE OF THE CITY, ARE ONLY EQUALLED BY HIS GENERAL URBANITY AND KINDNESS; THIS LITTLE WORK, IS (BY PERMISSION), MOST RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED, BY THE COMPILER Jfofar&einmt TO THE THIRD EDITION. The compiler of this “ Hand Book” has occasion onco more to thank his friends and the public for their kind pa- tronage. The two first editions have had a sale beyond his expectations, a gratifying proof that a desideratum has been supplied. The third Edition is now therefore presented to the- pnblic, and the compiler is anxious to take the opportunity which a re-print affords him of acknowledging the kind as- sistance he has received from Gh Gk Scott, Esq., Mr. Battee,. and other gentlemen, in making the present edition complete up to the present time. The internal arrangements of the Cathedral being yet incomplete, great care has been used to notice the alterations that have taken place since the pub- lication of the Second Edition ; those also in progress, as well as others in prospect, have not been lost sight of ; al- though perhaps circumstances may hereafter cause some de- viations from the present arrangements. With these remarks the compiler respectfully submits his work, trusting that it will hold its place in the estimation of the public. January , 1855; TO THE FIRST EDITION. This Hand-Book is intended simply as a “ guide” for those who visit Ely for the purpose of seeing the Cathedral, the remains of the ancient Monastery, and other objects of similar interest. The Compiler acknowledges himself greatly indebted for much valuable information to the elaborate works of Mr. Bentham and Mr. Millers ; and, although he is conscious that his task has been performed but imperfectly, he still ventures to hope, that, in the absence of the larger works above referred to, his little compilation will prove both inte- resting and useful. May, 18-52. Foundation of the Monastery Page 1 Diocese of Ely 9 Dean and Chapter . . . . 11 The Cathedral — West Front 13 Galilee, or Portico 15 Inside of the Tower 16 South-west Transept 17 Nave 19 Nave Aisles 21 Octagon 25 Transepts 30 Choir 34 N orth Choir Aisle 48 South Choir Aisle 51 Lady Chapel, or Trinity Church 55 Upper parts of the Church 57 Exterior 57 Dimensions of the Cathedral 64 Cathedral Establishment 65 Scale of the Organ 66 The Conventual Buildings, &c 67 The Cloisters and Chapter House 70 The Deanery, &c 70 Prior Crauden’s Chapel 71 B ishop’ s Palace 76 St. Mary’s Church 78 JfMiMioit of tfje Bloodcm. fT^HE early history of that portion of England which once formed the province or kingdom of East Anglia would, doubtless, he most interesting, hut it is not our purpose to go further into it than may he suffi- cient to show the origin of the monastery founded at Ely. Christianity was first introduced into East Anglia about the end of the sixth century, by Redwald, grand- son of Uffa, founder of that kingdom, but it appears that little progress was made in his time, although Ethel- bert, king of Kent, is said to have founded a monastery at Ely, about a.d. 604. Eorpwald, and after him Si- gebert, sons of Redwald, greatly promoted the cause of Christianity, and it was during the reign of the latter prince that the truths of the Gospel spread over the kingdom ; three monasteries were founded, one at Bury St. Edmunds, another at Burgh Castle, and a third at Soham ; and the first bishop of East Anglia was conse- crated. The pagan king of Mercia frequently disturbed B 2 FOUNDATION OF the tranquility of the kingdom, and Sigebert and his cousin Egric (to whom Sigebert had resigned his king- dom) were both slain in repelling an invasion. The same fate attended Anna, the successor of Egric, who was a prince greatly esteemed for his good qualities. He had married Heriswitha, sister of St. Hilda, the foundress of Whitby Abbey, and had a numerous fami- ' ly, among whom may be named Sexburga, who married Ercombert, king of Kent; Withburga, who founded the nunnery of Dereham ; and Etheldreda, the renown- ed foundress of the monastery at Ely, who was born about the year 630, at Exning, in Suffolk, a village near Newmarket. Etheldreda, or Audrey, a princess of distinguished piety, devoted herself to the service of God in early life, but, urged by her parents, was married to Tonbert, a nobleman among the East Angles, a.d. 652, who set- tled the Isle of Ely upon her in dower. Three years after their marriage Tonbert died, and left Etheldreda in sole possession, who, after a short time, committed the care of her possessions to Ovin, her steward, and re- tired to Ely for the purpose of religious meditation, for which it was well adapted, being surrounded by fens and waters, and in consequence difficult of access. Again she was solicited to enter the marriage state, and, being induced by her uncle Ethelwold, then king of East Anglia, she gave her hand to Egfrid, son of Oswy, king of Northumberland and monarch of the English nation, and afterwards became queen by the succession of her husband to his father’s kingdom. After the lapse THE MONASTERY. 3 of twelve years she gained permission of her husband to withdraw from court, and retired to the Abbey of Cold- ingham, where she took the veil ; thence she withdrew to Ely, and repaired the old church founded by Ethel- bert, at a place called Cratendune, about a mile from the present city, (of which place nothing is now known); but, shortly after, a more commodious site was chosen nearer the river, where the foundations of her church were laid, and the monastery was begun. The history of this distinguished princess may be read at great length in Bentham’s “ History and Anti- quities of Ely Cathedral,”* but would extend far be- yond the limits of this work ; we have however given sufficient to throw some light upon remarks we may make in subsequent pages; and will now continue our narrative, briefly taking in review the history of the monastery as it is handed down to us. Etheldreda became the first abbess of her own foun- dation at Ely, about the year 673, and governed it in such a manner as to gain the esteem not only of the members of the convent, but also of the inhabitants of the surrounding country. She gave the whole Isle of Ely to the convent as an endowment, and lived and died an example of piety and holiness. Her death took place a.d. 679, and she was interred in the Conventual Church, and succeded by her sister Sexburga, then a widow, who died in 699, and was buried beside her sister ; Erminilda, the daughter of Sexburga, next succeeded; and the fourth abbess was Werburga, * Bentham’s History, vol. 1, p. 45, &c. 4 FOUNDATION OF daughter of Erminilda, the period of whose death is unknown. Although St. Etheldreda’s monastery con- tinued to enjoy a regular succession of abbesses for up- wards of a century, the name of no one of its superiors is preserved. Protected by its situation, in the midst of waters, meres, and fens, it was little molested by ex- ternal troubles, till a.d. 870, when it was destroyed by the Danes, the monastery burnt, and the inhabitants put to the sword. A century elapsed before steps were taken for the restoration of the monastery. At length Ethelwold, bishop of Winchester, who is described as “ a great builder of churches and various other works,” re-found- ed the monastery in the year 970, by the direction of Edgar the Peaceful, who then sat on the throne of England. After some time, Ethelwold agreed with the king for the surrender of the whole district of the Isle of Ely, by way of purchase and exchange, for the use of the monastery. The king, for certain considerations, gave his royal charter* granting the revenues, rights, and privileges to the monastery for ever. This charter formed the ground of the temporal power given to the church of Ely; for many years vested in the bishop, though originally given to the church and monastery of Ely, by St. Etheldreda, but, on the destruction of that monastery by the Danes, was resumed by the crown, and after one hundred years, again restored to the church by king Edgar.f * This Charter is given at length in the Saxon language, with an En- glish translation, in the Appendix to Bentham’s History. f Bentham, vol. 1, p. 72. THE MONASTERY. O Brithnoth was instituted first abbot by Ethelwold, and appears to have been zealous in his duty ; he go- verned the abbey eleven years, but in the year 981 met an untimely death at the hands of Elfrida, dowager queen of king Edgar. He was succeeded by Elsin, and after him followed successively, Leofwin, Leofric, Leofsin, Wilfric, Thurstan, Theodwin, and Simeon, the ninth abbot, who commenced the foundation of the present Cathedral, a.d. 1083. The abbacy was vacant for a period of seven years after the death of Simeon, in 1093, during which time the revenues were claimed for the use of the king — William II., after whose death the w T ork was continued by Richard, the tenth abbot, who governed the monastery seven years ; progress was also made under Hervey, formerly bishop of Bangor, who was appointed administrator to the monastery after the death of Richard, and in whose time the abbacy was converted into a bishoprick, he being made the first bishop. We have thus endeavoured briefly, however imper- fectly, to bring down our history from the introduction of Christianity into the kingdom of East Anglia, and the foundation of the monastery, to the period when the present Cathedral was commenced ; we will now give a brief summary of the periods of erection of this edifice, reserving the more particular description of its parts for our survey of the building. There is no Cathedral in England which possesses finer examples of the various successive styles of ec- clesiastical architecture than that of Ely; affording 6 FOUNDATION OF excellent opportunities of judging of the comparative merits of each. The Norman portion of the building, being of later date ; is lighter in character than earlier examples of the same style ; indeed, in many places, it bears marks of transition from the round to the pointed style. Of each of the three periods of what is usually termed Pointed or Gothic, Ely Cathedral possesses a pure and perfect specimen. The Galilee and the Pres- bytery were built when the first or Early English style was perfected ; the Octagon, the three arches east of it, and the Lady Chapel, when the second, or Decorated English, accorded with the taste ; and the chapels of Bishops Alcock and West, when the third, or Perpen- dicular, style prevailed. The foundation of the Cathedral was laid, as before stated, a.d. 1083, in the Norman style by Simeon;* the Choir with its circular apse, the central Tower, the Transepts, and a part of the Nave were begun by him, but were not finished at his death in 1 093 ; they were completed about a.d. 1106, having been carried on, after a delay of seven years, by Abbot Richard, Sim- eon’s successor. Of this work the ground-story of the great Transept only now remains. The Nave was fin- ished about 1174; affording a fine specimen of later Norman, and giving the church a cruciform shape. A few years later the great western Tower with the wings were begun, during the episcopate of Bishop Ridel, and finished to the first battlements, during that of his * The present Cathedral of Winchester was begun about four years before, by Bishop Walkelin, brother to Abbot Simeon. THE MONASTERY. 7 successor, Longchamp, about a.d. 1189, producing a fine example of what is sometimes called the Transition- al style. The Galilee is supposed to have been erected by Bishop Eustachius, between a.d. 1200 and 1215, and is an early specimen of the First Pointed, or Early English, style ; the six eastern arches, formerly called the Presbytery, were built in the same style, at the expense of Bishop Northwold, who took down the circular apse at the east end of the Choir : they were finished and dedicated in 1252. The next step was the erection of the Lady Chapel in the Second Pointed, or Decorated English, style; this was begun in 1321, in the time of Bishop Hotham, and finished in 1349, un- der Bishop Montacute. In the year following the com- mencement of this work, the fall of the great central Tower, by which the three bays of the original Choir were demolished, gave cause for another great altera- tion ; it was then the Octagon and Lantern, and the three arches eastward of it, were built in the same style as the Lady Chapel ; the stone-work of the Octagon was finished in 1328, and the wood- work and roof about 1342; the expense of erecting the three arches was defrayed by Bishop Hotham. In 1380 an octagonal story flanked with turrets was added to the great west- ern Tower, and, over that, a spire was erected. This appears to have been about the last erection, with the exception of the chapels of Bishops Alcock and West, the former in 1488, and the latter in 1534; both in the Third Pointed, or Perpendicular, style : but the alter- ations of windows and other parts, together with neces- 8 FOUNDATION OF THE MONASTERY. sary repairs, have been numerous and various, at differ- ent periods. Of the time at which the fall of the north-western Transept took place, or when it was taken down, we have no record ; though the character of the buttress on the site of the west wall shews that it must have been at an early period. The removal of the Choir from under the Octagon to the Presbytery took place in 1770, by which the central portion of the church was cleared from all incumbrance and exposed to view in all its grandeur. St. Etheldredra’s Church and Monastery were dedi- cated to the Blessed Virgin; St. Ethelwold’s to St. Peter and St. Etheldreda; but, since the Reformation, the dedication of the Cathedral has been, to the Holy and Undivided Trinity . jk test of dtk npHE charter of king Edgar, as before mentioned, conferred great powers and privileges on the abbots of Ely, and, after them, tbe bishops successively exer- cised powers nearly similar to those of a County Pala- tine, until the reign of Henry the eighth, when they were considerably abridged by an Act of Parliament. The bishops of Ely, however, until the year 1836, pos- sessed a jurisdiction of considerable importance, and had almost sovereign authority within the franchise, which was styled the “ Royal Franchise or Liberty of the Bishops of Ely.” On the conversion of the abbacy into a bishoprick, a division of the property and revenues belonging to the monastery took place, and the charge and repairs of the Church fell to the share of the prior and monks, but the bishop retained a certain jurisdiction over them. The County of Cambridge, with the exception of a few parishes, was transferred from the See of Lincoln to the new See of Ely, and the Manor of Spaldwick, in c 10 DIOCESE OF ELY. Huntingdonshire, given to the Bishop of Lincoln in compensation. “ The fifteen parishes, which lie on the east side of the ancient boundary of the kingdom of Mercia, which never formed part of the Diocese of Lin- coln, continued to be comprised in the diocese of Nor- wich; they constitute part of the Deanery of Fordham, within the Archdeaconry of Sudbury.” Until 1837, the diocese of Ely consisted of the Achdeaconry of Ely, comprehending the Deaneries of Wisbeach, Ely, Bourne, Cambridge, Chesterton, Barton, Camps, and Shengay. In the present reign the diocese was increas- ed by the Counties of Huntingdon and Bedford, pre- viously in the Diocese of Lincoln ; and by the Arch- deaconry of Sudbury, with the exception of the Dean- eries of Hartismere and Stow, in Suffolk, previously in the diocese of Norwich. The Bishop has patronage to a considerable amount in Cambridge, he is visitor of four colleges, and ap- points absolutely to the mastership and one fellowship of Jesus College ; of two candidates nominated for the mastership of St. Peter’s College by the fellows, he decides on one; he appoints one fellow at St. John’s College ; and has several livings in his gift. The Arms of the See — Gru. three ducal coronets or. These are derived from the arms of the East Anglian Kings. gtait ani> Cljaptcr. W HEN the Abbacy was converted into an Episcopal See a.d. 1109, the office of Abbot merged in that of Bishop, and the Prior became the head of the monastery, holding the same rank as Deans of other Cathedral Churches ; he presided in chapter, and go- verned generally the affairs of the monastery. The first Prior, after this alteration, was Vincent, and there followed in succession thirty-six others, the last of whom, Robert Wells otherwise Steward, surrendered the monastery, at the dissolution, into the hands of commissioners for the king’s use. The surrender of the monastery of Ely with its goods and possessions into the hands of King Henry VIII., took place in November 1539. Agreeably to the pow- ers vested in him by Parliament, the King, by letters patent dated September 10, 1541, granted his royal charter for erecting the Cathedral Church of the late monastery of St. Peter and St. Etlielckeda , at Ely, into a Cathedral Church by the name and title of “ The 12 DEAN AND CHAPTER. Cathedral Church of the Holy and Undivided Trinity of Ely,”* to consist of one Dean, a priest, and eiglitf Pre- bendaries, priests ; with other ministers necessary for the celebrating Divine service therein ; and a Grammar School for 24 King’s Scholars : and did ordain the said Cathedral Church to be the Episcopal See of the Bishop of Ely and his successors. The said Dean and Preben- daries to be one body corporate, to have perpetual suc- cession, one common seal, and to be called “ The Dean and Chapter of the Cathedral Church of the Holy and Undivided Trinity of Ely giving them the whole site of the late dissolved monastery, with all the ancient privileges, liberties, and free customs of the same ; and nearly all the revenues of the late monastery. Robert Steward, the late Prior, was made the first Dean, since whose time twenty-one others have held the office, ex- clusive of the present Dean, who was appointed in 1839. The Statutes given to the Church by Henry the eighth, and confirmed by Queen Elizabeth, were modi- fied by King Charles the Second, in 1666, and continue in force to the present day. Arms of the Deanery — Giu. three keys or. These were the ancient arms of St. Ethelwold, Bishop of Winchester, and from him assumed as the arms of the monastery* * Bentham’s History, vol. ii. p. 225. f By an Act of Parliament passed in 1840, the number of Preben- daries was in future to be reduced to six, two of which were to be at- tached respectively to the Regius Professorships of Greek and Hebrew, in the University of Cambridge u Without — the world’s unceasing noises rise, Turmoil, disquietude, and busy fears. Within — there are sounds of other years, Thoughts full of prayer, and solemn harmonies.” The Cathedral. EJje .front. TN taking a survey of this noble edifice, it will be well to commence with the western front, which, as Mr. Millers observes, on account of its height and breadth should he viewed from a competent distance : a good point of view may he easily found on the Palace Green. Even in its present state it must he admired for its im- pressive, though irregular, grandeur; hut when the north wing was standing, corresponding with the south, which remains comparatively perfect ; before the erect- ion of the octagonal story of the Tower, and the Galilee or Portico, which, however beautiful in itself, has no proper connexion with the rest — it must have presented a frontage exceedingly grand, and inferior to hut few others in the kingdom. Such, we believe, was the ori- ginal design, hut succeeding bishops made additions and alterations as their tastes dictated, and in the style then prevailing. This may account for the alterations 14 THE CATHEDRAL. of windows and other parts from their original designs, and the transitions from one style to another, producing examples partaking of two periods, but not perfect in either. The lower portions of the Tower and wings were built by Bishop Ridel, who died a.d. 1189, and com- pleted as high as the first battlements, probably by his successor; part of this work is Norman, but the upper portions shew indications of transition towards the pointed style. A spire of timber covered with lead was erected on the western Tower by Bishop Northwold, about the middle of the thirteenth century, but removed sometime afterwards, when the upper portion of the Tower, in the Decorated style, was added, and sur- mounted by a spire. These additions were found to be injurious, and it became necessary to strengthen the lower portions of the Tower to support it; nor is it improbable that the fall of the north-western Transept was in some degree owing to the great additional weight, or that it was so far injured as to require removal. The wings of the great Tower formed a kind of se- cond Transept to the church, and were perfectly simi- lar; the remaining wing has turrets at the angles; that at the south-west angle is much larger than the other, though they are of equal height, and rise considerably higher than the wing. The wing and towers are cov- ered with ranges of arches one above another; the three lowest are circular, the fourth are trefoil-headed, the fifth and all above are pointed, and profusely adorned with mouldings. GALILEE, OR PORTICO. 15 The stone used in the erection of the Cathedral came from Barnack, near Stamford; and is of a much harder nature than what was commonly used : it gives proof of great soundness and durability, as may be seen by the good preservation of some of the mouldings. The soft white stone used for some of the interior decora- tions is called “ Clunch,” and is found within a few miles of Ely; it is well adapted for the purposes to which it is applied, being easily worked and capable of being highly finished, but it will not bear exposure to the weather : most of the pillars with their capitals and bases, as well as many of the mouldings and ornaments in the eastern portion of the church, are of Purbeck marble. ©fje ffialtlcc,* or portico. This was erected by Bishop Eustachius, who died in 1215, and is a beautiful as well as an early specimen of the Early English style. It consists of two stories without windows in the sides ; in the upper story are three lancet windows at the west end, placed close to- gether, the middle light being higher than the one on either side ; the lower story receives light through the western opening. Externally it is adorned with four rows of small pillars and arches one above another on both sides. In front the recesses of the arches are * The name is thus accounted for by the late Rev. G. Millers in his “ Description of Ely Cathedral,” p. 43. “ As Galilee, bordering on the Gentiles, was the most remote part of the Holy Land from the holy city of Jerusalem, so was this part of the building most distant from the sanc- tuary, occupied by those unhappy persons, who, during their exclusion from the mysteries, were reputed scarcely, if at all, better than heathens.” 16 THE CATHEDRAL. deeper, being probably intended for tbe reception of statues. The arch of entrance and that of communica- tion with the Tower are very elegant: on each side they rest upon five slender columns, a middle column with detached shafts, separating each into two smaller arches. The length on each side, internally, is occupied by two large pointed arches, comprehending under each two tiers of subordinate ones, the upper tier of five and the lower of three, supported by very slender columns, and below the arches on the sides are stone benches. All the shafts were originally of Purbeck marble, ![with ele- gant capitals.* The ribs of the vaulting are of free- stone, but the vault is of clunch. The floor was laid in tiles a few years ago. Wyt Itisfoe of tfje EoSxior. has lately been considerably improved by the removal of a floor which had been inserted just above the lower arches, thus opening it to the great lantern, bringing into view a series of beautiful colonnades and arches, for many years hidden, except to those who explored the upper portions ; besides relieving it of the weight of a large quantity of stone and materials ;+ towards which improvements, the sum of £150. was given by the late H. R. Evans, Esq. The tops of the four fine * Millers’ Description of Ely Cathedral, p. 42. f At the time these works were in progress (Oct. 1845), Mr. Basevi, the eminent architect of the Fitzwilliam Museum, at Cambridge, visited the Tower, and unfortunately fell from the old Belfry floor, and was killed. He was buried in the north aisle of the Choir, and a handsome slab with an elegant monumental brass by Messrs. Waller, has been laid over his remains. SOUTH-WEST TRANSEPT. 17 arches which originally supported the Tower can now be partially seen ; they were spacious openings, but are contracted by interior arches in a different style, which were inserted in the early part of the fifteenth century, for the purpose of strengthening the building.'* The window over the Galilee entrance was inserted about a.d. 1800, and beautified a few years afterwards (1807), at the expense of Bishop Yorke, and the upper portion filled with stained glass, of which one portion was given by Bishop Yorke, and the other by Dr. Waddington, at that time a Prebendary of the Cathe- dral ; the remainder has recently been completed at the expense of J. T. Waddington, Esq. of Twyford House, Winchester, executed by Mr. Clutterbuck. iooutf>tocst transept was, until very lately, separated from the Tower by a wall of stud and plaster, and used as a workshop or receptacle for materials used for repairs of the fabric, but is now thrown open in all its beauty. It has been repaired and restoredt at considerable expense, towards * The ceiling will be decorated at the expense of H. It. Evans, Esq. f “ The restorations, which have been for some years in progress, have been executed throughout with the most scrupulous care, preserving every portion of uninjured surface, and re-producing what is mutilated or destroyed as nearly as possible in exact conformity with the indications of the ancient work afforded by the parts which remain, and in the same material. They were at first carried out under the directions of the pre- sent Dean, assisted from time to time by Professor Willis, and by the occasional advice of professional friends ; but towards the end of the year 1847, Mr. G. G. Scott was appointed architect to the works, and under his direction the re-arangement of the Choir, and the other restorations D 18 THE CATHEDRAL. which, besides other benefactions, the Rev. E. B. Sparke, one of the Canons, gave £ 200 . The architecture of this portion of the Cathedral is worthy the special notice of the visitor, and the various forms of the arches, and the beautiful mouldings and ornaments on some of them, cannot hut attract atten- tion. The painting on some of the panels of the ceiling is for experiment only. A new floor of mosaic tiles will he laid, and when finished, this will he used as the Baptistery of the Cathedral ; a new Font in the Trans- itional style, has been prepared, the gift of the Rev. W. Selwyn. one of the Canons; the present font, in the third hay of the Nave, will be removed, having no connexion with the Norman, or indeed with any other style of architecture in the building. Several of the windows, which were for many years blocked up with stone and rubbish, have been re-open- ed ; and those of the lower tier at the south end filled with stained glass by Mr. Wailes : The west window contains — the Meeting of Jacob and Rachel ; the Choice of Esther ; and the Crowning of Esther : and is the gift of the Very Rev. the Dean. The east window comprises — the Meeting of Isaac and Rebecca ; of Boaz and Ruth ; and the Marriage of Cana: contributed by Hamilton Cooke, Esq. of Carr House, Doncaster. Not many years ago there was a communication by still in progress, are being carried on. The windows have been filled chiefly through the exertions of the Rev. E. B. Sparke .” — Archeological Guide. THE NAVE. 19 a covered viaduct over the road, between this Transept and the east wing of the Bishop’s Palace, which road, from that circumstance, is still called “ The Gallery Adjoining this Transept on the east, is the apsidal (ftfjapel of SbU (ftatfjatme, for many years in ruins, hut lately re-built; towards the expense of which the sum of £100. was given by J. C. Sharpe, Esq. of Lon- don ; and a stained glass window has been promised by the Rev. W. Gr. Townley, of Upwell, Norfolk. m* Nabe. On entering the Nave, the visitor cannot but be struck with the great length of the Cathedral, the no- ble appearance of the lofty arches, and the sublime grandeur of the whole view. With the Tower rising above ; on the right, the south-west Transept, rich in the extreme with its several arcades of plain, intersect- ing, and trifoliated arches ; and in front, the long vista of the Nave, the noble Octagon, and the Choir, to the extreme end of the church ; we cannot but pause, and admire the skill of man shewn in such a work : but, when we consider to Whose honor and glory such skill is exerted, we no longer wonder at man’s best energies being called forth to construct and ornament such a temple. The Nave is of ample dimensions, but unadorned ; it has a lighter appearance than many churches of Nor- man architecture, and, according to Mr. Bentham, is a late specimen of that style, having been completed a.d. 1174. The length is comprised in twelve bays or com- 20 THE CATHEDRAL. partments, the pillars alternating in size and pattern ; there are no single round columns as in many churches, and the arches seem to be somewhat higher than semi- circular, being some little way rectilinear before they take the circular bend.* Those of the second tier comprehend in each two smaller ones, supported by a much lighter column ; each division in the upper tier is divided into three small arches, the middle one being larger and higher than that on either side of it. Over the aisle, on each side, runs a broad gallery, or ({ trifo- rium,” as it is usually called ; and above this is a narrow passage in the thickness of the wall, giving access to the upper tier of windows, called the “ clere- story;” thus, the height of the walls is divided into three parts — ground-story, triforium, and clerestory; and its breadth into the same number — Nave ; north, and south, aisle. A semi-circular roof-shaft runs from the floor to the top of the wall, but the roof is open to the view from the floor to the leads ; a far more finished and perfect effect would be obtained by a ceiling in ac- cordance with the style of this portion of the building ; but we fear it would be a work of too great expense to be encountered, although we are encouraged by seeing how much has been done to other parts of the church, to hope that something may in a future time be accom- plished.t * Millers’ Description of Ely Cathedral, p. 50. f Since the first edition of this work appeared, in 1852, a bequest, by the late Rev. G. M illers, which was augmented by the liberality of his Executors to £400. has been invested as an accumulating fund for this purpose NAVE AISLES. 21 On the second pillar from the east end of the Nave, on either side, may be observed a niche, indicating the western extremity of the original Choir, which extend- ed across the Octagon. Before proceeding to the Octagon it will be well to take a view of the Nabe Aisles, commencing with the south, to which visitors will doubtless be attracted by its windows. We first observe a range of semicircular small arches and pilasters, run- ning along under the windows. The windows of the aisles, as also those of the triforium, were originally Norman, but altered at some subsequent period to a later style ; those however of this aisle have nearly all been restored to their original form, and filled with stained glass; we will endeavour to describe them in their order, beginning at the western end of the aisle : 1st. The days of Creation ; executed by Messrs. Henri and Alfred Grerente, of Paris : the contribution of various Visitors to the Cathedral. 2nd. The History of Noah ; by Alfred Grerente ; the gift of Mrs. Pleasance Clough, as a memorial to her aunt Susannah, the wife of John Waddington, Esq. 3rd. The Annunciation ; Salutation of Mary and Eliza- beth; and the Birth of Christ: by Mr. Warrington, his own gift. 1th. Is from contributions by the various Tradesmen connected with the Cathedral: the subject is the Tower of Babel and the Confusion of Tongues ; executed by Mr. Howes. THE CATHEDRAL. 5th. The Visitation of the Angels to Abraham ; the Expulsion of Hagar ; and the Blessing of Jacob ; by Mr. Gibbs, his own gift. Qth. The Institution of the Passover ; the Death of the First-born ; and the Departure of the Israelites ; by Mr. Howes, his own gift. '1th. The fall of the walls of Jericho ; the Passage of the Jordan; and the Beturn of the Spies from the pro- mised land; by Mr. Wailes : presented by the late Bev. G. Millers, Minor Canon, as a memorial to his late wife, Mary Millers. 8 th. The History of Samson ; the gift of M. Alfred Gerente, as a memorial to his late brother Henri, who executed some of the windows in the south Transept ; this window was executed by M. Alfred Gerente. Qth. The History of the Venerable Bede; by Mr. Wailes, his own gift. 10 th. The History of David ; by Mr. Hardman : pre- sented by the ladies of the Dean and Canons. 1 1th. and last of the series — the History of Solomon ; designed and executed by the late Bev. Arthur Moore, of Walpole St. Peter’s, Norfolk ; the cost of glass and other expenses being defrayed by the Dean and Chapter. The vaulting of the aisles is of the original Norman, and forms a strong contrast with the rich vaulting of the eastern portion of the Cathedral. Traces of fresco work, or Early English decoration, have been discover- ed in the vault of the tenth bay from the west, and if the coats of yellow- wash were removed probably more might be seen. The door-way under the fourth win- dow, formerly the Prior’s entrance from the Cloisters, NAVE AISLES. 23 is, on the exterior, very beautiful, being richly carved and ornamented; over the door is a figure of the Saviour in a Vesica piscis, attended by two angels ; the mouldings above, as well as the capitals, jambs, and pi- lasters are enriched with running foliage, and with a series of medallions, some of which are very curious. Both Mr. Bentham and Mr. Millers give an engraved illustration of this door-way. The door-way also at the east end of the aisle, under the last window, formerly the monks’ entrance from the Cloisters, now the south entrance to the Cathedral, is worthy of attention. We now turn our attention to the north Aisle, and observe a range of arches and pilasters similar to those in the south Aisle, but an intermission under one of the windows marks the place where there was a communi- cation with the parish Church of St. Cross, closed up about two hundred years ago. The windows of this Aisle retain their altered form ; three of them have been recently filled with stained glass : and some others have been promised :* The most eastern window of the Aisle has been filled in commemoration of the establishment of a Savings’ Bank in Ely, being the contributions of certain subscrib- ers returned to them as no longer necessary, assisted by a special contribution from the Bev. J. H. Sparke, one of the Canons. The subject taken from the History of Daniel ; executed by M. Lusson, of Paris. * One by the family of the late H. E. Evans, Esq. and designed as a memorial to him. Another by Colonel Allix, designed as a memorial to the Eev. Peter Allix, D.D. formerly Dean of Ely. 24 THE CATHEDRAL. The fifth window from the east has been filled at the expense of J. J. Rawlins on, Esq. as a memorial to the late Rev. Gr. Millers, Minor Canon, and author of “ A Des- cription of Ely Cathedral.” The subject is taken from the history of Elijah : and executed by Mr. Wailes. The second window from the west has been filled at the cost of Mr. Bacon, Clerk of the works to the Cathedral, as a memorial to his late father, his predecessor in that office. The subject is taken from the history of our first parents ; executed by Mr. Cottingham. At the west end of the Aisle, under an arch, is a most curious relic, deserving attention, It is the lower portion of a stone cross with a square pedestal, found some years ago at Haddenham, in the Isle of Ely ; the inscription* on the pedestal is in Roman capitals, ex- cept the E, which is Saxon. * Thus translated by Mr. Bentham — u Grant, 0 God, to Ovin thy light and rest. Amen.” THE OCTAGON. 25 It will be found on referring to the history of the foundress of the monastery of Ely, (of which Mr. Ben- tham gives a long account), that her steward bore the name of Ovin, and there is reason to believe that the cross above referred to was erected either in the life- time of Ovin, or to his memory soon after his death ; probably in the early part of the eighth century : this would make it earlier, by nearly four hundred years, than any thing else in the church. Near it is a relic supposed to have been part of the episcopal chair of Bishop Northwold. A tablet on the wall near the eastern window of this Aisle bears the following inscription : “ 1676, Roger Clopton , Rector of Downham , Gave two hundred pounds , By which The greatest Part of the Nave of Phis Church Was paved.” A noble example ! which, if now followed, would be a timely benefaction, and indeed most desirable, as the pavement of the Nave, as well as that of the Aisles, is much dilapidated. Wqz ©ctagoiE We now come to this special glory of the Cathedral, “ in which,” says Mr. Millers, in his excellent “ Descrip- tion of Ely Cathedral,” “elegance, magnificence, and strength are so happily blended, that it is impossible to determine in which respect it is most admirable.” E 26 THE CATHEDRAL. We follow up the description nearly in his own words* “ Here stood originally, a square tower, which, in the year 1322 , from the unequal pressure of the four parts of the church, gave way and fell eastward,” crushing in its fall the three adjoining arches* “ It could not have happened at a more favorable conjuncture ; as the con- vent was rich, spirited and liberal ; and though another great work had been begun the preceding year (the erection of a new Lady Chapel), the repair of this great dilapidation was immediately undertaken, and com- pleted in a few years, by Alan de Walsingham, at that time Sacrist; an officer under whose particular charge were all the monastic buildings. It has continued a- bove five hundred years, and may it yet continue a no- ble proof of his consummate skill as an architect.” The conception was original, being perhaps the first build- ing of the kind ever erected. “ By throwing the weight upon eight strong piers and arches instead of four, he has probably guarded against the recurrence of a simi- lar accident ; at the same time he has given more ample space, a more agreeable form, and more scope for em- bellishment: which is, however, most judiciously con- fined within such limits as not to interfere with sober and impressive grandeur.” No one can behold it with- out admiring the skill which has suspended, rather than supported, a very heavy timber roof over so wide an area without a pillar. The fine effect, produced by the great quantity of light let down from above, is especially striking. “ It is not equilateral; there are four longer and four THE OCTAGON. 27 shorter sides, alternate and respectively equal. Four lofty arches, in the four longer sides, open into the four principal parts of the church : alternately with these, in the four shorter sides, are as many more, much lower, opening obliquely into the aisles above and be- low the Transept. The arches are all supported by ele- gant clustered and conjoined columns, and their capitals are wreaths of flowers and foliage, Above the key- stone of each of the high arches, there is, or rather was, a whole length sitting figure, probably of some saint;” but even this seemingly inaccessible situation did not protect these figures from malicious injury, all having been defaced or partially destroyed. “ The other four sides are more ornamented ; but the ornaments are chaste and not profuse. The four low arches in them are under canopies resting on good car- ved heads, which remain perfect. Those on the north- east are said to be intended for Edward III. and his queen, Philippa, in whose time the building was erected. On the south-eastern arch, are the heads of a bishop and a priest, perhaps meant for Bishop Hotham and Prior Crauden. On the north-west arch, are the heads of another priest, apparently younger, and of some se- cular person in long hair the former is supposed to represent the skilful architect of this noble work, and the latter the principal master mason. On the remain- ing arch at the south-west, are two figures, of which we can scarcely comprehend the meaning. “A little above each of these lower arches, are three brackets with canopies ; the figures are gone, but some 28 THE CATHEDRAL. ornamental heads remain : above these canopies is a sort of embattled ornament, and above that a window of four lights and various tracery. It is extremely sharp-pointed, and towards the top each window is faced internally with a trellis or lattice work in stone tracery, which adds to its elegance without intercepting the light. These windows rise exactly to the same height with the higher arches.” They are, we understand, to be all filled with stained glass ; that in the south-east angle has been completed by the munificence of the Rev. E. B. Sparke, and is designed to commemorate the prin- cipal persons who figured in the traditionary history of the foundress. The figures in the upper tier represent Anna, father of Etheldreda — Etheldreda, as queen — Tonbert, her first, and Egfrid, her second husband : in the lower tier, Etheldreda, as abbess — Wilfrid, bishop of York — Erminilda, the third abbess — and Sexburga, the second abbess : the tracery contains other figures and emblems, with the arms of the donor. The win- dow in the north-east angle is partially filled by sub- scriptions from the Bachelors and Undergraduates of the University of Cambridge, and will be completed as soon as the funds will allow : the figures already insert- ed represent Werberga, fourth abbess of Ely — St. Ed- mond — Withburga — and Dunstan : and the tracery contains the arms of the University, with other figures and devices. “ Between each two arches is a small cluster of slen- der columns ; on each of these, rather higher than the spring of the lower arches, is represented, in relief, some THE OCTAGON. 29 passage of the life of St. Etheldreda;” beginning at the right side of the north-west arch, we find — The first, which represents her mairiage with Egfrid, king of Northumberland. The second, her taking the veil in the Monastery of Coldingham, at the hands of Wilfrid, bishop of York. The third, her pilgrim’s staff taking root whilst she slept by the way, and hearing leaves and shoots. The fourth, her preservation, with her attendant virgins, on a rock surrounded by a miraculous inundation, when the king pursued her with his knights to carry her off from her monastery. The fifth, her instalment as Abbess of Ely. The sixth, her death and burial. The seventh, a legendary tale of one Erithstan delivered from bonds by her merits, after she was canonized. The eighth, the translation of her body. Above these reliefs are niches with canopies, crock- ets, and finials, but no statues. The columns rise to the same height as those of the four higher arches, hav- ing the same sort of capital, from which spring the ribs of the vaulted dome. In the centre of the dome is an aperture thirty feet wide, upon which is placed the lan- tern, an exact octagon, having on each of its sides a large sharp-pointed window. The whole of the dome and lantern is of wood. When part of the dome was cleansed from its coats of yellow wash in 1850, sufficient remains of the ancient painting were discovered to show that the whole had originally been decorated, about a.d. 1338, in a magni- 30 THE CATHEDRAL. ficent style, and it is to be hoped that it may be, in some degree, restored to its former grandeur.*' Before proceeding to the Choir we will notice ©je ©anscpts, which are the oldest portions of the Cathedral, having been begun by Abbot Simeon, in 1083, of whose work, however, the ground-story only remains. Both Transepts have aisles, which, in the south Transept originally ex- tended round the end of it, as at Winchester. In each of the Transepts there is a simple cylindrical shaft, of which no other specimen occurs in any other part of the church. The capitals of the columns are ornament- ed, except those on the west side of the north Transept, which are plain. The columns and arches above the lower tier are similar to those in the Nave. The roof in both Transepts is of bare rafters, painted with flowers and devices ; angels, with wings expanded, support the principals. The western aisle of the north Transept is open, that on the eastern side is divided by walls behind each co- lumn into compartments ; one portion is used for an entrance to the Lady Chapel, and another as a vestry for the lay-clerks. There are corbels, or perhaps frag- ments of piscinae, in two of them. At the north end is a small colonnade, the arches of which are irregular ; those opposite the windows being higher to allow free passage to the light. In the year 1699, the fall of a * A portion of the dome may be observed decorated in imitation of the original, done as an experiment. THE TRANSEPTS. 31 portion of the north-west corner took place, hut it was so well re-built as not to be easily discernible in the in- terior. The windows of the triforium on the east side are original; those of the triforium on the west side, and the upper ones at the north end, are of a later age ; the rest are all in their original form, or have been re- stored to it. Four of the windows at the north end, and those of the western aisle have been recently filled with stained glass : The two lower, and the western window of the second tier, at the north end, were executed by Mr. Wailes, at the expense of the Rev. E. B. Sparke. The eastern window of the second tier, was executed by the late Rev* A. Moore. The subjects of these four win- dows are taken from the history of St. Paul. The northern window in the western aisle has also been filled with glass executed by the same gentleman. The subject is taken from the Parable of the Prodigal Son. The middle window of the western aisle has been filled at the expense of J ohn Muriel, Esq. ; executed by M. Lusson : the subject — the Grood Samaritan. The south window of the aisle has been filled with glass executed by M. Lusson, designed as a memorial to the late Rev. Arthur Moore, of Walpole, who designed and executed three windows in the Cathedral; the subjects are taken from the Parables. We now cross the Octagon to the south Transept, which has recently undergone a thorough repair, at a great expense ; the rafters and cornices have been re- painted and gilded in their original style, which, with the stained glass windows in the south end, produces 32 THE CATHEDRAL. an amount of colour, the effect of which is extremely beautiful. The western aisle appears to have been closed for many years, as, on the walls built in the arches (and which, until lately, completely filled the openings), there is a row of intersecting Norman arches about the height of those in the aisles of the Nave. Of this aisle, thus inclosed, one portion is used as a vestry by the Yirgers, having an entrance through a pointed arch at the end of the south aisle of the Nave; the middle portion as a vestry for the Clergy, with a muni- ment room beyond. The windows of this aisle and those of the clerestory on both sides are in their origin- al form, and so are those of the two lower tiers at the south end, but the others are of a later age. The gable window differs from those of the upper tier of the north Transept. The windows in the south end have been recently filled with stained glass : The east window of the lower tier, executed by Henri Grerente, of Paris ; presented by the Eev. E. B. Sparke : the subject taken from the History of Joseph. The west window of the lower tier, contains the Histo- ry of Moses ; by Henri Grerente ; the gift of Lessees of the Bishop of Ely. The east window of the second tier, contains the His- tory of Abraham, with parallels ; by Henri and Alfred Grerente ; the gift of Incumbents of livings in the diocese, and in the patronage of the Bishop of Ely. The west window of the same tier, contains the History of Jacob, by Alfred Grerente: the gift of Incumbents of livings until lately in the patronage of the Bishop of Ely, but not in his diocese. THE TRANSEPTS. 33 The gable window contains six figures of the Patriarchs, with our Lord in the centre ; the gift of some of the Peers and Prelates educated in the University of Cam- bridge : some of the figures are executed by Mr. Howes, and others by ME. Breedy. The middle window of the western aisle has also been filled at the expense of the Rev. G-eorge Rous, Rector of Laverton, Somerset, designed as a memorial to his grand- father, Dr. Hugh Thomas, nineteenth Dean of Ely : the subject taken from, the Book of Jeremiah: executed by M. Lusson. The eastern aisle was formerly divided, by walls be- hind each column, into three compartments, and sepa- rated from the body of the Transept by wooden screens ; the divisions were removed in 1813, when it w T as en- closed as we now see it to form the Cathedral Library. At the end of this Transept also is a colonnade, but different from that in the north Transept, the arches being all of equal height, but not so high as the others ; over this is a row of intersecting arches. These galle- ries were erected at a period subsequent to the adjoin- ing walls, and probably intended to form a passage from one triforium to the other. Some remains of ancient decoration may be observed on the walls, and on the capitals of the piers, &c. some of which have been re- newed. The carved oak door, leading to the vestry of the cler- gy, in the western aisle, deserves attention. It is not exactly known whether it originally belonged to the Cathedral ; the carved devices are similar to those in the Chapel of Bishop Alcock, in the north aisle of the F 34 THE CATHEDRAL. Choir, and no doubt it was once attached to some build-* ing erected by that prelate. It was found at Land- beach, and sent to the Cathedral by the late Rev. H. Fardell, then one of the Canons. The inlaid or tessel- ated pavement in this Transept, formerly lay in the passage leading from the Choir to the Lady Chapel. The new oak screen will attract the attention of the visitor by its elaborate design and skilful execution, and, when completed, will probably not be surpassed by any thing of the kind in the kingdom. It was designed by Gr. G. Scott, Esq. and executed by Mr. Rattee, of Cambridge, in a manner that testifies highly to his skill and ability. The elegant brass gates, and the brass fo- liage in the lower panels of the screen, have been exe- cuted by Mr. Hardman, of Birmingham. &ije dfjotr, previous to 1322 , was under the central Tower and extended, including the screen, from the second column of the east end of the Nave, to about the same distance on the opposite side ; and was, after the erection of the Octagon and the three arches adjoining it on the eastern side, again placed there; in 1770, it was removed to the six eastern arches of the Cathedral, formerly the Presbytery. It has been again removed, and now com- mences at the eastern side of the Octagon, extending to the length of seven arches, leaving the space of the two eastern arches as a retro-choir. This will be better understood by reference to the accompanying plans, (for the use of which the compiler THE CHOIR. 35 is indebted to the kindness of the Editor of the “ Ar- chitectural Quarterly Review,”) showing the arrange- ment of the Choir as it was in the last century, and the alterations just made. GENERAL PLAN. Octagon, with the arrangement H West Porch, or Galilee, of the Choir previous to 1769. Presbytery. Nave. North Transept. South Transept. Part of Cloisters (ruined). Western Tower. I St. Catharine’s Chapel. K Lady Chapel. L Font. M Pood Screen. N N N Foundations of Norman apse. O Foundations of n. w. Transept. P South-western Transept. 36 THE CATHEDRAL CHOIR AND TRANSEPTS, SHOWING NEWj ARRANGEMENTS. The black tint represents the Norman work of Abbots Simeon and Richard , 1083 — 1106 . The lined tint represents Bishop Northwold' s work , 1229 — 1254 . The dotted tint represents the work of Bishops Hotham , Montacute , and Lisle , 1316 — 1361 . A The Octagon. B Choir, as now being carried C Nave. D North Transept. E South Transept. F Lady Chapel. a Altar, as now proposed, out. b Bishop Alcock’s Chapel and Tomb, c Bishop West’s Chapel and Tomb. d Organ, and Staircase to ditto. e Part of Cloisters (ruined). f f f Tombs. THE CHOIR. 37 The architecture of the first three arches is greatly admired as a specimen of the Decorated style; they were erected at the expense of Bishop Hotham, about the same time as the Octagon, and probably under the superintendence of the same skilful architect. The lower columns are nearly, the capitals entirely, of the same form with those of the Octagon ; but the arches are more ornamented ; and those of the triforium, and the windows above them are, as Mr. Bentham observes, “ embellished with tracery work of such elegance and delicacy, as seems scarcely consistent with strength.” These windows have the same kind of lattice-work be- fore remarked in the Octagon. Between each of the two lower arches is a corbel profusely adorned with foliage in high relief, richly coloured and gilded ; from this rises a column between the upper arches and windows, and from the top of this column spring the ribs of the vaulting, which is very elaborate. In the spandrils of the first lower arch on the south side, are the arms of the see (gules three ducal coronets or); and those of Bishop Hotham (harry of ten azure and argent , on a canton or a martlet sable ). The ornamented cresting or parapet over the lower and second tiers of arches has been entirely renewed ; and every portion of the eastern part of the Cathedral has been carefully and thoroughly cleansed from the coats of yellow-wash with which it was covered ; the Purbeck marble pillars have all been re-polished, and the bosses and ornaments of the vaulted ceiling of the Choir coloured and gilded in accordance with the ori- 38 THE CATHEDRAL. ginal design ; by which we are enabled to form some idea of its former grandeur. The absence of a bishop’s throne is peculiar to this Cathedral; the bishop occupying the return-stall on the right-hand side of the entrance, and the dean that on the left; these seats being appropriated in other cathedrals to the dean and sub-dean. When the abbacy was converted into a bishoprick, the bishop took the seat previously held by the abbot, the prior retaining his own: and, on the re-foundation in 1541, the dean occupied the seat of the former priors. On the right of the entrance, 4 therefore, is the lofty canopied seat of the bishop, and on the left that of the dean; and the ancient stalls designed by Alan de Wal- singham, in the early part of the fourteenth century, extend on both sides to the length of the three arches of Bishop Hotham’s erection. These stalls have been cleaned and restored, and harmonize well with the new work ; their canopies are very rich and elaborate, and the panels under the upper portions were probably de- signed for sculpture, which would add greatly to the beauty of the whole. A group, representing the Na- tivity of our Lord, executed by Mr. J. Philip, has been placed in one of the panels on the northern side, with good effect. The sub-stalls are new, and the whole of very beautiful design ; the stall ends in the upper range have, under the canopies, a series of statuettes of the principal among the ancient benefactors of the church, and for finials they are crowned with figures of angels with musical instruments. The figures were designed THE CHOIR. 39 and modelled by Mr. J. Philip, and executed partly by him, and partly by Mr. Rattee ; we subjoin a list of them, commencing at the north side, progressing east- wards, and returning westward by the opposite side : Etheldreda — with model of Saxon church 673 King Edgar — who restored the same, holding plan 970 Abbot Simeon — plan of Horman church 1083 Abbot Richard — Old Choir and Transept 1106 Bishop Harvey — Have 1109 Bishop Ridel — Western Tower with Spire 1180 Bishop Eustachius — Gralilee 1215 Bishop Northwold — Six eastern arches 1252 Bishop Hotham — Three bays of the Choir 1322 Prior Crauden — his Chapel 1328 Alan de Walsingham — Lady Chapel and Octagon 1322 Bishop Alcock — Model of his Chapel 1488 The fronts of the stalls are generally of open work, shewing the seats, or misereres as they are usually cal- led, behind ; these last are curiously carved beneath. On the faces of the stall-ends of the lower tier are va- rious emblematical devices, crests, and arms, beautifully carved, which we enumerate below, following the same order we pursued in the list of statuettes. The Crest of the Dean. The Crest of the Revs. J. H. and E. B. Sparke, Canons. The Crest of the late Rev. H. Eardell. The Arms of the Rev. J. Ashley, Canon. The two eastern ones on each side are emblematical of the Evangelists. Pelican feeding her young — one of the earliest symbols of our Blessed Lord. The Arms of the late Dr. Mill. 40 THE CATHEDRAL. The Arms of the Rev. W. Selwyn, Canon. The Arms of the See. The organ is placed in a position differing from that of any other in England, although not unusual in Conti- nental Cathedrals. The pedal and swell organs have been placed in the triforium on the north side, and the great organ, with the choir organ beneath it, project in front of the eastern arch of Hotham’s work, resting up- on an overhanging chamber behind the stalls. The or- gan has been re-constructed, with great additions, by Mr. Hill, of London, and the magnificent organ-case, with its sculptures, was executed by Mr. Rattee ; the pipes and much of the wood-work have been gilded and ornamented by Mr. Castell, of London, and the effect which it produces, from almost every point of view, is rich and agreeable ; while from its unusual position it loses little of its power or sweetness of tone, but sends forth its pealing sounds, reverberating through the lofty arches with fine effect. We know of nothing more sublime than the voices of a congregation, assisted and supported by such an instrument, praising and adoring the great Giver of all good, but are led to exclaim with the poet — “ There let the pealing organ blow, To the full voiced choir below, In service high and anthems clear, As may with sweetness, through mine ear, Dissolve me into ecstacies, And bring all heaven before mine eyes.” Milton. Bishop Hotham’s work is terminated at the third arch by two strong piers at the ends of the stalls. Here THE CHOIR. 41 commenced the semicircular east end of the original church, extending a very little way further ; it was ta- ken down in the year 1235, by Hugh de North wold, eighth bishop, who added the six beautiful eastern arches at his own expense ; they form a pure and good example of Early English work, and were completed a.d. 1252, and dedicated in the same year, in the pre- sence of king Henry III. and many nobles and prelates. This was called the “ Presbytery,” a common name at that period for the chancel or east end of a church. “ The character of the three western arches is singu- larly yet beautifully arranged to harmonize, in point of elevation of its parts, with the six eastern arches ; this, and the very great excellence of the details, renders this part of the edifice a most valuable study.” * The absolute contact here of the two styles of Early English and Decorated, affords the spectator an opportunity of contrasting them, and of judging of the comparative merits of each. By many, the eastern arches are pre- ferred for their chaste and elegant appearance, not being so profusely ornamented as those of Bishop Ho- tham’s erection, hut, as Mr. Millers observes, “ every thing seems in its proper place and fitly proportioned ; all harmonize, and, taken altogether, give a general character of lightness and elegance. This is nowhere more conspicuous than in the roof ; the plain ribs of which, diverging from their imposts, instead of cross- ing each other and spreading into intricate forms, go straight to a longitudinal mid-line, running from west * Rickman. G 42 THE CATHEDRAL. to east, and decorated with coloured figures or flowers, where the springers meet it.”* The piers of the lower arches are cylindrical, sur- rounded by slenderer detached shafts, under one capi- tal, all of Purbeck marble. The clustered columns and beautiful arches of the upper tiers cannot fail to he admired for their elegance and beautiful design. The spandrils throughout are relieved with trefoils and qua- trefoils deeply sunk and hacked with Purbeck marble, and, on the whole, the contrast of light and shade, depth and projection, produces a very fine effect. The original lancet windows of the aisles and triforium were re-placed in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries by larger windows of a flamboyant character : the clere- story windows are three lancet-shaped lights under one arch of the same span with those below. The two tri- forium windows on each side of the first and second bays inserted by Bishop Barnet in 1370, were probably designed to give additional light to the high altar, as well as to the shrine of St. Etheldreda, which at that period stood between the first arches of Bishop North- wold’s erection. The tracery in these is similar to that of the corresponding arches of Bishop Hotham’s work, but is not so highly ornamented. The east end is very beautiful, and will bear compa- rison with those of many churches erected after the large end windows came into use. There are two tiers of lights, the lower consisting of three very high lancet shaped, and all equal ; the second consists of five, the * Millers’ Description of Ely Cathedral, p. 74. THE CHOIR. 43 middle one being higher, and those on the sides gradu- ally lower. They are enriched by slender pilasters and leafy mouldings, presenting altogether a chaste and ele- gant design. The whole of these windows will ere long be filled with stained glass by the munificence of the late Bishop Sparke, who in 1833, gave £1500, three per cent, stock, for that purpose. The floor of the Choir has been re-laid with marble combined with Clinton’s mosaic tiles ; and a large mar- ble slab has been placed over the grave of Bishop Ho- tham, inlaid with brass, and bearing the arms of the see and those of the bishop, surrounded by an inscrip- tion. Another has been laid over the grave of Prior Crauden, superior of the monastery at the time of the erection of the Octagon. This is the original gravestone of the prior, but it had, with several others, been re- moved to another part of the church, many years ago. The brass insertion has been renewed by Mr. Hardman, shewing a kneeling figure with a large foliated cross is- suing from his bosom, with the initials, I. C. on either side, and surrounded by an inscription. In the wide treading of one of the steps leading from the Choir to the Presbytery, are placed the arms of some of the benefactors to the restoration of the Ca- thedral ; * executed by Messrs. Minton. In the Pres- bytery, where the absence of stall-work allows space for more elaborate design, it will be seen much care * Those in the centre are the arms of the Duke of Bedford ; on one side, those of the Rev. Thomas Halford, and Alexander Beresford Hope, Esq., and on the other, those of John Dunn Gardner, Esq., and John Charles Sharpe, Esq. 44 THE CATHEDRAL. and skill has been used, and the effect produced is mag- nificent. The places of sepulture, so far as they can be ascertained, of bishops, priors, and deans, will, we be- lieve, be marked by small brass plates, recording their names, with dates, &c. A temporary altar screen has been placed until a new and appropriate one can be erected ; the position of which will be between the second and third arches from the east end ; it is now in course of erection, and when complete will consist of a centre and two wings of rich open work ; the centre, or reredos, will be of much greater elevation, and deserve particular attention for its elaborate and beautiful design, as well as the skilful execution of its details. It has been designed by Gr. G. Scott, Esq. and will, with the oak screen at the west end of the Choir, form magnificent examples of his skill and taste. The centre will he of alabaster, and comprise a series of open arcading, with spiral pillars and elegantly car- ved capitals ; the pillars will he enriched by inlaid work in coloured stones. It will he divided into five com- partments, the centre one being larger than the others ; and recessed in these openings will be incidents con- nected with the passion of the Saviour, carved in alto- relievo. The arches will he light and elegant, and the tracery of geometrical work contain heads and figures ; on the central gable will he a figure of our Lord en- throned, surrounded by rays of glory ; and on either side figures of the Evangelists, the appropriate emblems being worked in the crockets ; between these will be THE CHOIR. 45 sitting figures representing virtues. The outer mould- ings will he embellished with crockets and finials ; and between the arches will rise small pillars surmounted by figures of angels bearing instruments of the Passion. Over the central canopy will be placed statuettes of our Lord with those of Moses and Elias : the gables will also be enriched with busts of the major Prophets, the Doctors of the Church, &c. and other spaces will be enriched with mosaic. The centre will be backed by open stone work with a beautiful cresting, which will add greatly to the grandeur of the whole. Under the openings will be a row of sunk quatrefoils orna- mented with ball-flowers, and filled in with mosaic ; and the wall below will be enriched with diaper work of elegant patterns, which will also be extended over the space below the openings in the wings, which are of clunch. The whole of the stone work, including the architec- tural carving has been beautifully executed by Mr. Rattee, and is in a state of forwardness : and the sculp- ture is in the hands of Mr. J. Phillip. The reredos is the munificent gift of J. Dunn Gardner, Esq. and de- signed as a memorial to his deceased wife. The altar being raised several steps above the level of the floor will shew to advantage the magnificent Altar Cloth, which is of rich crimson velvet, embroidered with much taste and skill by Miss Agnes and Miss Ellen Blencowe, and is thought to be worthy of the best ages of Mediaeval embroidery. “ Its length is di- vided into three parts ; the middle containing a very 46 THE CATHEDRAL. beautiful figure of our Lord as risen, contained within a pointed aureole of a deep blue colour, and bordered by radiating beams. Broad orphreys, embroidered in flowers, divide the middle compartment from the sides, which are of red velvet powdered with conventional flowers the largest being copied from ancient ex- amples at East Langdon, Kent, and others from Othery, Somersetshire. The inscription on the superfrontal is worked in gold as follows : — “ Het