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JOURNAL 
 
 OF 
 
 A TOUR IN ASIA MINOR, 
 
 SfC 
 
JOURNAL 
 
 OF 
 
 A TOUR IN ASIA MINOR, 
 
 WITH 
 
 COMPARATIVE REMARKS 
 
 ANCIENT AND MODERN GEOGRAPHY 
 OF THAT COUNTRY. 
 
 WILLIAM MARTIN LEAKE, 
 
 F.R.S. &c. 
 
 ACCOMPANIED BY A MAP. 
 
 LONDON: 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE-STREET. 
 
 1824. 
 
l'RINTED BY RICHARD TAYLOR, 
 SHOK-LANf. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 TO the traveller who delights in tracing 
 vestiges of Grecian art and civilization 
 amidst modern barbarism and desolation, 
 and who may thus at once illustrate history 
 and collect valuable materials for the geo- 
 grapher and the artist — there is no country 
 that now affords so fertile a field of discovery 
 as Asia Minor. Unfortunately, there is no 
 province of the Ottoman empire more dif- 
 ficult to explore in detail. In European 
 Turkey, the effects of the Mahometan sy- 
 stem are somewhat tempered by its proxi- 
 mity to civilised Europe, by its conscious 
 weakness, and by the great excess of the 
 Christian population over the Turkish : but 
 the Turk of Asia Minor/ although he may 
 be convinced of the danger which threatens 
 the whole Ottoman empire, from the change 
 that has taken place in the relative power 
 of the Musulman and Christian world, 
 
 b 
 
IV 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 since his ancestors conquered the favoured 
 regions of which their successors have so» 
 long been permitted to remain in the un- 
 disturbed abuse — derives, nevertheless, a, 
 strong feeling of confidence and security,, 
 from his being further removed from the; 
 Christian nations which he dreads ; and I 
 sensible that European Turkey must be the^ 
 first to fall before the conqueror, he feelss 
 no restraint in the indulgence of his hatred! 
 to the Christian name, beyood that whichi 
 may arise from the dictates of his religion,, 
 or from the native hospitality of the people3 
 of the East. 
 
 In Asia Minor, among the impedimentss 
 to a traveller's success may be especially 
 reckoned the deserted state of the coun- 
 try, which often puts the common necessa-.- 
 ries and conveniences of travelling out o)f 
 his reach ; the continual disputes and warrs 
 among the persons in power ; the preca- 
 rious authority of the government of Con- 
 stantinople, which rendering its protectiom 
 ineffectual, makes the traveller's success 
 depend upon the personal character of tine 
 governor of each district ; and the ignorancte 
 
PREFACE, 
 
 and the suspicious temper of the Turks, 
 who have no idea of scientific travelling ; 
 who cannot imagine any other motive for 
 our visits to that country, than a preparation 
 for hostile invasion, or a search after trea- 
 sures among the ruins of antiquity, and 
 whose suspicions of this nature are of course 
 most strong in the provinces which, like 
 Asia Minor, are the least frequented by us *. 
 If the traveller's prudence or good fortune 
 should obviate all these difficulties, and 
 should protect him from plague, banditti, 
 and other perils of a semibarbarous state 
 of society, he has still to dread the loss of 
 health, arising from the combined effects 
 of climate, fatigue, and privation ; which 
 seldom fails to check his career before 
 he has completed his projected tour. 
 
 Asia Minor is still in that state in which 
 a disguised dress, an assumption of the 
 medical character, great patience and per- 
 severance, the sacrifice of all European 
 comforts, and the concealment of pecu- 
 
 # These remarks were written before the insurrection 
 broke out in Greece — an event which will greatlv increase 
 the difficulties of travelling in Asia Minor. 
 
 b 2 
 
VI 
 
 PH K.FACE. 
 
 niary means, are necessary to enable the 
 traveller thoroughly to investigate the 
 country, when otherwise qualified for the 
 task by literary and scientific attainments, 
 and by an intimate knowledge of the lan- 
 guage and manners of the people. 
 
 Among modern travellers, two only have 
 yet traversed Asia Minor in various direc- 
 tions for exploratory purposes ; Paul Lucas 
 in the years 1705, 1706, and 1715, and Capt. 
 Macdonald Kinneir in the years 1813 and 
 1814. The rest have merely followed a single 
 route in passing through the country ; even i 
 the travels of the two persons just named,, 
 amount only to a description of several I 
 routes instead of one ; the state of the pro- 
 vinces and the mode of travelling having;' 
 rendered it impossible to make any of those^ 
 excursions from the main road, without! 
 which the geography of an unknown coun- 
 try cannot possibly be ascertained . It eveni 
 appears from the journal of Mr. Kinneir,, 
 that the difficulties of travelling in Asiat 
 Minor have rather increased of late years* 
 than diminished. And hence he was un- 
 successful in all his attempts to explore par- 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 Vll 
 
 ticular sites interesting to ancient history, 
 and was unfortunate in his collection of the 
 surest tests of ancient geography, — inscrip- 
 tions. 
 
 The principality of Tshappan-Oglu, which 
 offered some security to the traveller, has 
 been broken up by his death ; and that of 
 the family of Kara-Osman-Oglu, the mild- 
 ness and equity of whose government over 
 the greater part of iEolis, Ionia and Ly- 
 dia, had attracted thither great numbers of 
 Greeks from Europe, has been put an end 
 to by the same impolitic jealousy of Sultan 
 Mahmud which is undermining his own se- 
 curity and threatens the destruction of his 
 empire. There remain only a few dispersed 
 chieftains, most of them in a state of 
 doubtful allegiance to the Porte, in whose 
 districts, by good management and previous 
 preparation, the traveller might perhaps be 
 allowed to explore the country in safety. 
 In no other parts can he, unless with all 
 the requisites above stated, and a great sa- 
 crifice of time, hope to effect more than a 
 rapid passage along the principal roads, 
 take a transient view of some of the re- 
 
Vlll 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 mains of antiquity, and note the distances 
 of places, and the general bearings of the 
 route, together with the relative situations 
 of a few hills or other remarkable objects 
 on either side of the road. 
 
 Under such circumstances, it is obvious 
 that the geography of Asia Minor can only 
 be improved by collecting and combining 
 the information contained in the journals of 
 modern travellers ; by which means an ap- 
 proximation to a detailed map of the coun- 
 try may progressively be made. It was 
 with the view of contributing to this object 
 that I published the journal of two routes 
 through the central parts of Asia Minor, 
 in the second volume of the Rev. R. Wal- 
 pole's Collection of Memoirs on Greece 
 and Asia Minor. 
 
 Having, since that publication, extended 
 over the whole peninsula the comparative 
 inquiry into its ancient and modern geo- 
 graphy, which was there confined to the 
 parts forming the subject of the journals, 
 the result has been, the map which ac- 
 companies the present volume; the vo- 
 lume itself containing, together with the 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 IX 
 
 substance of the memoir in Mr. Walpole's 
 Collection, the additional remarks suggest- 
 ed by the more enlarged geographical in- 
 quiry. 
 
 As the remarks have become consider- 
 ably more voluminous than the journal, 
 I cannot flatter myself that the work in its 
 present form will possess much attraction 
 for the general reader. It can only pre- 
 tend to contain, when accompanied by the 
 map, all the existing information upon Asia 
 Minor most essential to the exploring tra- 
 veller ; at the same time that it cannot fail 
 to offer some interest to the reader of an- 
 cient history. 
 
 The modern authorities which have served 
 in the construction of the map are of two 
 kinds — the maritime, and those relating 
 to the interior of the country : the former 
 derived from celestial observations, or nau- 
 tical surveys on the sea coast ; the latter, 
 from the routes of travellers. The mari- 
 time being the most certain, and giving 
 accuracy of position to the two ends of 
 some of the principal routes, and conse- 
 quently in a great degree to the entire lines 
 
X PREFACE. 
 
 — may be considered as the foundation of 
 the work. 
 
 The positions of Constantinople and 
 Smyrna are assumed from the concurrence 
 of several good observations. The entire 
 southern coast, from the Gulf of Iskende- 
 run to that of Makri, together with seve- 
 ral parts of the coast between Makri and 
 Smyrna, has been laid down from the Sur- 
 vey of Captain Beaufort, which was made 
 in the years 1811 and 1812, by order of the 
 Admiralty, during the administration of 
 Mr. Yorke ; and which was published in the 
 year 1820, by direction of the Lords Com- 
 missioners. The principal points and the ge- 
 neral outline of the Pontic coast of the pen- 
 insula have been adopted from the recently- 
 published chart of the Black Sea by Capt. 
 Gauttier, of the Royal Navy of France*. 
 The western coast, from the Gulf of Ela^a to 
 the mouth of the Hellespont, has been laid 
 down from Truguet and Racord, officers of 
 the French Navy, who accompanied Count 
 
 * The coast between Cape Carambis and Sinope was 
 not seen by Captain Gauttier, who has therefore borrowed 
 that part from the Russian charts. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 XI 
 
 Choiseul Goufh'er in his Embassy to the 
 Porte in 1784; and the result of whose la- 
 bours is published in the second volume 
 of M. Choiseurs Voyage Pittoresqite de la 
 Grece. 
 
 In the interior of the peninsula the lati- 
 tude of some important points, as Kesaria, 
 Konia, Afiom Karahissar, Kutaya, Ma- 
 nissa, Brusa, Isnik, have been observed 
 by Niebuhr, Browne, or by Messrs. Cha- 
 vasse and Kinneir : the remaining con- 
 struction is nothing more than the result 
 of a comparison of the ancient geographers 
 and historians with the routes of modern 
 travellers, and with the descriptions of two 
 Turkish geographers, who lived about the 
 middle of the seventeenth century — Mus- 
 tafa Ben Abdalla Kalib Tsheleby, com- 
 monly called Hadji Khalfa, and Abubekr 
 Ben Behrem of Damascus. Though little 
 is to be derived from these authors with 
 regard to the exact situation of towns, 
 their evidence on the orthography of names, 
 and their information on the political geo- 
 graphy, are of considerable utility. 
 
 The elder travellers, whose routes have 
 
Xll 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 served in the construction of the Map, may 
 be confined to Tavernier, Tournefort, Paul 
 Lucas, Otter, and Pococke ; for Bertrandon 
 de la Brocquiere, de la Mottraye, and Le 
 Bruyn, afford no geographical matter that 
 is not contained in the others. 
 
 Tavernier informs us, in his introduction, 
 that he began his travels by a visit to En- 
 gland, in the reign of James the First ; he 
 died in 1685. Although he crossed Asia 
 Minor several times, in the way to Persia, 
 where his commercial speculations carried 
 him, he has left us nothing more than a 
 very brief description of two caravan routes 
 to Tokat : the one from Constantinople, by 
 Boli, Tosia, and Amasia; the other from 
 Smyrna, by Kassaba, Allahshehr, Afiom 
 Karahissar, Bulwudun, and across the Salt 
 country to the Kizil-Ermak, which he pass- 
 ed at Kesre Kiupri. 
 
 Tournefort traversed Asia Minor only in 
 one direction, from Erzr6m by Tok&t to 
 A'ngura, from whence he passed a little to 
 the north of Eski-shehr, to Brusa. 
 
 Paul Lucas was sent out in the year 1 704, 
 by the same minister of Louis XIV. who 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 X11I 
 
 employed Tournefort on a similar expedi- 
 tion in the Archipelago, the Black Sea, and 
 Armenia. But, unfortunately for our geo- 
 graphical knowledge of Asia Minor, Lucas's 
 qualifications were very inferior to those of 
 his contemporary ; nor does he appear to 
 have been well adapted, by previous study, 
 even for those branches of investigation to 
 which his attention was particularly direct- 
 ed by his employers ; namely, the collecting 
 of coins and inscriptions. 
 
 By assuming the medical character, he 
 secured a good reception at several of the 
 provincial towns, and protection from the 
 governors, as far as their authority extend- 
 ed ; but the banditti which at that period 
 infested every part of the country, obliged 
 him always to travel in haste, and often in 
 the night ; and he was not qualified to de- 
 rive as much advantage from journeys made 
 under such circumstances as a more expe- 
 rienced and more enlightened traveller 
 might have done. He was generally care- 
 ful in noting the time employed in each 
 stage ; but the names of places are often 
 disfigured by his careless mode of writing. 
 
XIV 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 His ignorance and credulity made him de- 
 light in repeating the absurd tales which 
 the traveller so often hears in these half- 
 civilised countries; at the same time that 
 he omitted the insertion of many useful 
 observations which he could not have failed 
 to make. In some instances he has repeated 
 the fabulous accounts of the natives as if 
 he had himself witnessed them, and has 
 thus rendered himself liable to the suspi- 
 cion of having wilfully imposed upon his 
 readers. There can be no doubt, however, 
 that his itinerary, abstracted from his nar- 
 rative, is as correct as he was capable of 
 making it. The geographical results, when 
 connected and compared with those of other 
 travellers, are a sufficient proof of this fact ; 
 and Lucas, with all his faults, has furnished 
 us with a greater number of routes than any 
 other traveller in Asia Minor. In 1705 he 
 went from Constantinople to Nicomedia, 
 Nica3a, and Brusa ; from Brusa to Kutaya, 
 Eski-shehr, An'gura, Kir-shehr, Kesaria ; 
 from Kesaria to Nigde, Bor, Erkle, and 
 Konia ; from Konia to A'ngura, Beibazar, 
 Kiwa, Nicomedia, and Constantinople, to 
 
P H E F ACE. 
 
 XV 
 
 which city he returned in February 1706. 
 In the autumn of the same year, after a 
 long journey in Greece, he set out on a se- 
 cond tour in Asia Minor from Smyrna, tra- 
 velling by Sardes, to Allah-shehr, Alan- 
 kitii, Burdur, Susu, and Adalia; from Ada- 
 lia to Susu, Isbarta, Egerder, Serkiserai, 
 and Konia; from Konia to Erkle, and over 
 Mount Taurus, by the Pyla? Ciliciae to 
 A'dana, Tarsus, and thence into Syria. In 
 a third journey in Asia Minor, in the year 
 17 15, Lucas went from Smyrna to Ghiuzel 
 Hissar by Tire ; from thence by the valley 
 of the Maeander to Denizld; and from De- 
 nizlu by Burdur to Isbarta, from whence he 
 travelled the same road as before to Ko- 
 nia. He states also, but without giving any 
 particulars of his route, that he again visited 
 Kesaria ; and that, after having returned to 
 to Konia, he once more proceeded by the 
 Pylae Ciliciae to A'dana and into Syria. 
 
 Next to Lucas, Otter is the most useful 
 of the earlier travellers. He was a Swede, 
 sent to Persia by the Court of France in 
 1734. He crossed Asia Minor by the way 
 of Iznimid, Lefke, Inoghi, Eski-shehr, Ak- 
 
XVI 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 shehr, Konia, Erkle, and A'dana ; and re- 
 turned from Persia by the route of Amasia 
 and Boli. His narrative is chiefly valuable 
 from his knowledge of the Turkish Ian- 
 guage, and from his having previously 
 consulted some manuscript works in the 
 Royal Library at Paris, especially that of 
 Ibrahim Effendi, who first established a 
 Turkish press at Constantinople, and whose 
 information seems to accord with that of 
 Hadji Khalfa, and of Abubekr of Da- 
 mascus. 
 
 Among our own countrymen, Pococke 
 is the only traveller of the last century who 
 has published his route with sufficient pre- 
 cision to be of any use to the geographer ; 
 but he has been extremely negligent in 
 noting bearings and distances : his narra- 
 tive is very obscure and confused ; and his 
 journey in Asia Minor is consequently of 
 much less importance than it might have 
 been made by so enlightened, learned, and 
 persevering a traveller. In the year 1740, 
 after visiting a great part of Ionia and Ca- 
 ria, he ascended the valley of the Maeander 
 and its branches to lshekli and Sandukli, 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 XV11 
 
 from whence he crossed to Beiad, Sevri- 
 hissar, and An'gura. From An'gura he 
 crossed to the northward into the great 
 eastern road from Constantinople, and re- 
 turned to that capital by the way of Boli 
 and Nicomedia. 
 
 Niebuhr traversed Asia Minor in the 
 year 1766, on his return from India by the 
 way of Baghdad, Mosul, and Aleppo. 
 From Iskenderun he passed by Bayas to 
 Adana, and from thence by Erkle to K6- 
 nia, Karahissar, Kutaya, andBrusa*. 
 
 In the year 1797, Browne returned from 
 the interior of Africa by the way of Asia 
 Minor. From Aleppo and Aintab, he tra- 
 versed the range of Taurus to Bostan, Ke- 
 saria, An'gura, Sabanje, and Nicomedia. 
 Mr. M. Bruce -f travelled the same route 
 in 1812, and has given us a diary of names 
 and distances not to be found in Browne's 
 printed book of travels. 
 
 * An unfortunate fire destroyed the engravings pre- 
 pared for Niebuhr's third volume, and put a stop to its 
 publication. I believe Major Rennell is in possession of 
 a copy of the map of Niebuhr's route through Asia Mi- 
 nor, struck from the plate before the fire. 
 
 t See the appendix to Mr. Kinneir's Travels. 
 
XV111 
 
 V R E F A C E . 
 
 It was in the year 1797, also, that Olivier 
 oassed through Asia Minor, from Celen- 
 deris by Mout, Laranda, Konia, Ak-shehr, 
 Afiom Karahissar, Kutaya, Yenishehr, Ni- 
 ca-a, and Nicomedia. 
 
 Seetzen traversed Asia Minor from Con- 
 stantinople to Smyrna, and from Smyrna 
 to Afiom Karahissar, Ak-shehr, Konia, La- 
 randa, Ibrala, and across Mount Taurus to 
 Karaduar (anciently Anchiale, the port of 
 Tarsus), from whence he passed by sea to 
 Seleuceia, the port of Antioch, now Sua- 
 dieh. The distances and the names of the 
 places which he passed through, written 
 with great care, have been preserved ; but 
 it is feared that the rest of his valuable 
 manuscripts are irretrievably lost^. 
 
 In the year 1801 , Browne agaii versed 
 Asia Minor from Constantinople, % Nico- 
 media, Brusa, Kutaya, Afiom Karahissar, 
 Ak-shehr, Konia, Erkle, Tarsus. 
 
 Among recent travellers, Capt. M. Kin- 
 nier has furnished us with the 
 
 greatesc 
 
 # In the latter part of the last century, Griffiths and 
 Capper published their routes across the peninsula, from 
 S.E. to N.W., but without adding much to geography. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 XIX 
 
 number of routes. These are; 1. from 
 Constantinople, by Nicaea, Eski-shehr, 
 Seid-el-Ghazi, and Germa, to An'gura; 
 from An'gura, by Uskat, to Kesaria ; and 
 from Kesaria, by Nigde, Ketch-hissar *, 
 and over Mount Taurus, by the Pylae Ci- 
 liciae, to Tarsus, Adana, and Iskenderun. 
 2. From Celenderis to Mout, Laranda, 
 Konia, Ak-shehr, Afiom Karahissar, Ku- 
 taya, Brusa, Mudania. 3. From Constan- 
 tinople, by Nicomedia, Sabanje, Turbali, 
 Boli, Kastamuni-f , Samsun, Tarabiz{in, to 
 Erzrum. 
 
 * This is probably an error for Kilissa-Hissar, which, 
 according to Hadji Khalfa, is the name of a castle near 
 Bor; for the bearing and distance of Mr. Kinneir's Ketch- 
 Hissar from Nigde are sufficient to prove that it must 
 have been vtv near the Bor of Hadji Khalfa and Paul 
 Lucas. 
 
 i* Mr. x .nneir calls this place Costambol ; but the 
 Turkish geographers give it the name in the text, which 
 in fact is nothing more than a slight corruption of Casta- 
 mon, its Greek na.me under the Byzantine empire. See 
 Anna Comnena, 1. 7. p. 206. — Nicet. in Joan. Comnen. 
 — Chalcocond. 1. 9. p. 2.59. — Leuncl. Annal. Turc. — 
 It is to be regretted that Mr. Kinneir was not more care- 
 ful in his orthography of places, which often requires 
 correction from Hadji Khalfa, or modern travellers. Like 
 Pococke he has omitted, in giving us his computation of 
 
 C 
 
XX 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 Mr. Kinneir was also one of the many 
 persons who, during the late war, crossed 
 the northern part of Asia Minor, to or from 
 Persia by the way of Boli, Amasia, and 
 Tokat. 
 
 Another road, which has been still more 
 followed, is from Brusa or from Mikhalitza, 
 by Ulubad and Magnesia, to Smyrna, or 
 in the opposite direction : the latitudes of 
 all the principal places on it have been de- 
 termined by Browne *. Of this and of se- 
 veral other routes in the ancient provinces 
 
 miles, to add the actual measure by the watch, which is 
 generally the more useful of the two. 
 
 * The following are among some of the observations of 
 the latitude of places on the road from Smyrna to Con- 
 stantinople, made by Mr. Browne. They are taken from 
 his manuscript papers. 
 
 Latitude. Longitude. 
 
 Smyrna ... 38° 28' 7" 27° 6' 48' 
 
 Magnesia . . 38° 41' 30" 
 
 Demir Kapu . 39° 49' 0" 
 
 Balikesr ... 39° 32' 0" 
 
 Ulubad ... 40° 9' 30" 
 
 Mikhalitza . . 40° 16' 30" 
 
 Brusa . . . 40° 9 ; 30'' 
 
 Yenishehr . . 40° 12' 0" 
 
 Kizdervent . . 40° 32' 0" 
 
 Nicjea . . . 40° 21' 30'' 
 
1> RE FACE. 
 
 XXI 
 
 of Mysia, Lydia, Ionia, and Caria, we 
 have descriptions in Smith, Wheler, Spon, 
 Chishull,Pococke,Picenini, Chandler, and 
 Choiseul Gouffier. 
 
 The authorities upon which our know- 
 ledge of the ancient geography of Asia Mi- 
 nor is chiefly founded, are the works of 
 Strabo, Ptolemy*, Pliny, Stephanus By- 
 zantinus, the curious table or map of roads 
 called the Peutingerian Table, the Anto- 
 nine and Jerusalem Itineraries^, the Sy- 
 necdemus of Hierocles, and the following 
 historical narratives of some celebrated mi- 
 litary expeditions : — 1. The Journal by Xe- 
 nophon J, of the route of Cyrus from Sar- 
 des to Celaenee, and from thence to Ico- 
 
 * It is almost unnecessary to remark that the latitudes 
 and longitudes of Ptolemy are of very little use, though 
 they may be sometimes employed as a concurrent testi- 
 mony in proof of the vicinity of places. 
 
 f The routes of these three itineraries are described 
 upon the map by a double line ; and thus the part of the 
 Peutinger Table relating to Asia Minor is (I believe for 
 the first time) placed upon the real projection. This part 
 of the Table has at the same time been engraved on the 
 same plate with the Map, for the greater convenience of 
 reference and comparison. 
 
 X Ante Christum, 401. 
 
XX11 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 nium ; and through Lycaonia and part of 
 Cappadocia, and over Mount Taurus to 
 Tarsus. 2. Arrian's history of the conquest 
 of Asia Minor by Alexander ; in which the 
 part more particularly worthy of the geo- 
 grapher's attention is the march from Lycia 
 into Pamphylia and Pisidia, and thence to 
 Gordium in Phrygia, and to Ancyra, and 
 through Cappadocia and the Pylac Ciliciae 
 to Tarsus *. 3. The history of the Roman 
 wars in Asia by Polybius, Livy, and Ap- 
 pian ; especially the description by Livy 
 of the marches of Cn. Manlius, in Phrygia, 
 Pamphylia, and Pisidia, and thence into 
 Gallogrrecia, and to Ancyra f. 4. The 
 march of the Emperor Alexius Comnenus, 
 from Constantinople to Iconium, in an ex- 
 pedition against the Turks, as related by 
 his daughter Anna Comnena. 
 
 To these may be added, with regard to 
 the southern coast, an anonymous Periplus, 
 entitled, " ffTalicicr^oi; rru ^iydMi S"aXa<r<nj;, 
 which was extracted from a manuscript in 
 the Royal Library of Madrid, and publish- 
 ed in a volume called Rehire Bibliotheca* 
 
 * A. C. 333 
 
 t A. C. 189. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 XX111 
 
 Matritensis Codices Graeci MSS. by the 
 librarian lriarte, in the year 1?69. But 
 the best and most numerous evidences of 
 ancient geography are those which still 
 exist in the country itself, in the ruins of 
 the ancient cities, and in the inscriptions 
 and other monuments which may be found 
 there. When these remains of antiquity 
 shall be thoroughly explored, and the results 
 compared with the geographers, with the 
 itineraries and with the passages of history 
 just referred to, they will probably lead to a 
 system of Ancient Geography in Asia Mi- 
 nor, much more correct than we at present 
 possess *. For while we are still ignorant of 
 
 * An inquiry into the situation of the sees of the Greek 
 bishopries of the Lower Empire may sometimes assist the 
 traveller in the discovery of the ancient Pagan sites. In 
 regard to the smaller places, this method may not often 
 be successful, Turkish conquest and Christian depopula- 
 tion having gradually obliterated the greater part of them ; 
 but it is difficult to suppose that the metropolitan, and 
 some others of the more important sees, which are at the 
 same time desiderata of ancient geography, — such as Syn- 
 nada, Antiocheia of Pisidia, Perge, Philomelium, Pessi- 
 nus, Amorium, — should be unknown to the Christians of 
 Asia Minor, although their names may be no longer in 
 common use. 
 
XXIV 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 the exact position of such important points 
 as Gordium, Pessinus, Synnada, Celaenae, 
 Cibyra, Sagalassus, Aspendus, Selge, An- 
 tioch of Pisidia and Isaura, it is almost 
 a vain attempt to form any satisfactory sy- 
 stem ; as the several parts of it must de- 
 pend so much upon one another, and upon 
 an accurate determination of the principal 
 places. 
 
 After this remark, the reader will not be 
 surprised, upon consulting the map, to find 
 that not only the boundaries of the pro- 
 vinces or districts are indistinctly marked, 
 but that even the names of places, both an- 
 cient and modern, are often inserted with- 
 out the usual note of exact locality. 
 
 The ancient provincial divisions are dis- 
 tributed according to the description of 
 Strabo ; or, in other words, according to 
 their usual acceptation at the time of the 
 establishment of the Roman Empire, when, 
 as they ceased to have any political use, 
 their boundaries became, as they had al- 
 ways in some degree been, extremely un- 
 certain. 
 
 The appellations of the Turkish districts 
 
V 11 E F A C E . 
 
 XXV 
 
 are either derived from the principal town 
 of each district, or from the names of those 
 chieftains who, together with the founder 
 of the Ottoman dynasty, shared Asia Mi- 
 nor among them, on the breaking up of the 
 Seljukian kingdom of Iconium, at the death 
 of Aladin the Second, about the year 1300 
 of the Christian aera. These chieftains 
 were, Karamari, Kermian, Teke, Aidin, 
 Sarukhan, Sassan or Sagla, and Karasi. 
 Mtintesha, the appellation of the south- 
 western corner of Asia Minor, is sup- 
 posed to be a corruption of Myndesia, or 
 the country of Myndus ; and this is the 
 only district, therefore, the name of which 
 the Turks adopted from the conquered 
 people. 
 
 All the north-eastern part of the penin- 
 sula fell to the share of Amur and his sons, 
 but its divisions were not distinguished by 
 their names. 
 
 Osman, who inherited the country around 
 Shughut from his father Ertogrul, soon in- 
 creased his territory by the country to the 
 northward and westward of that town, as 
 far as the Propontis and the Black Sea. 
 
XXVI 
 
 PIlEfACK. 
 
 This part of the peninsula still retains the 
 appellation of Khodja-Ili, or the country 
 of Khodja, given to it in honour of Aktshe 
 Khodia, the officer of Osman, who effected 
 the conquest. 
 
 Khodavenkiar*, which was the surname 
 of Murad, son of Orkhan son of Osman, 
 has been attached to the district of Brusa 
 ever since Orkhan, having conquered that 
 country from the Greeks, confided the go- 
 vernment of it to his son. 
 
 Kermian-oglu, or the successor of Ker- 
 mian j*, was the first of the Turkish princes 
 of Asia Minor who resigned a part of his 
 dominions to the house of Osman, and who 
 put his family under their protection, by 
 the marriage of his daughter with the son of 
 Murad, the celebrated Bayazid. During the 
 three subsequent reigns, those princes were 
 generally tributary to, but not otherwise de- 
 
 * An Arabic word, meaning master, ruler. 
 
 + This name has been supposed to prove that Kutaya, 
 the capital of Kermiafi, stands on the site of the KepafxtZv 
 ayopa of Xenophon ; but there is no doubt that Kermian 
 is a Turkish name, and foreign to ancient Asia Minor. 
 The mosque of Sultan Kermian still exists at Kutaya. 
 
P K E F A C E . 
 
 XXV11 
 
 pendent on, the Ottoman monarchs, whom 
 they often resisted in the field ; and it was 
 not until the family of Isfendiar, who go- 
 verned in Heracleia Pontica, Castamon, 
 and Sinope, was reduced by Mahomet the 
 Second, and the kingdom of Karaman by 
 Bayazid the Second, in the year I486, that 
 the whole of Asia Minor became an Otto- 
 man province. 
 
 Thus much it seemed necessary to re- 
 call to the reader's recollection, in expla- 
 nation of the Turkish provincial names in 
 the map. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 Journey from Constantinople to Konia 1 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 Illustration of the Ancient Gography of the Central Part 
 of Asia Minor 51 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Continuation of the Journey. — From Konia to Cyprus, 
 Alaia, and Shughut • • 93 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Of the ancient places on the road from Adalia to Shughut, 
 including remarks on the comparative geography of the 
 adjacent country 144 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 Of the ancient places on the southern coast of Asia Minor 171 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Some remarks on the comparative geography of the west- 
 ern and northern parts of Asia Minor 219 
 
 ADDITIONAL NOTES. 
 I . On the military operations of the first Crusade in Asia 
 Minor 313 
 
H^H 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 2. Another error in Xenophon's march of Cyrus 319 
 
 3. On Cilicia and the position of Claudiopolis 319 
 
 4. On the Theatres of Telmissus and Patara 320 
 
 5. On the distinction between the Greek and Roman 
 Theatre. Peculiarities of the Asiatic Greek theatre. 
 Dimensions of the principal Greek theatres 321 
 
 6. On a Latin inscription at Stratoniceia, relating to the 
 prices of various commodities 329 
 
 7. On a Greek inscription at Mylasa 328 
 
 8. Two Greek inscriptions, proving the site of Tralles . . . 339 
 
 9. Plans of the Theatre and Palaestra of Hierapolis. On the 
 Plutonium at the same place 340 
 
 10. A description of the antiquities of Sardes, by Mr. 
 Cockerell 342 
 
 1 1 . On the principal Temples of Asia Minor 346 
 
 1 2. On the description of the battle of Magnesia by Ap- 
 pian 352 
 
 
Blank inserted to ensure correct page position 
 
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 l^^^^^fllte 
 
JOURNAL OF A TOUR 
 
 IN 
 
 ASIA MINOR, 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 JOURNEY FROM CONSTANTINOPLE TO KoNIA. 
 
 Departure from Constantinople — Kartal — Ghebse — Kizderw&it 
 — Lake Ascanius — Niccea — Site of the ancient Towns between 
 Constantinople and Niccea — Ruins of Niccea — Lefke — Shug- 
 hut — Eski-shehr, the ancient Dorylceum — Seid-el-Ghazi — 
 Doganlfi, probably the ancient Nacoleia — Kosru-Klian — Bul~ 
 wudun — Isaklu — Ak-shehr — Ilgun — Ladi'k — Ruins of Lao- 
 diceia — Kdnia. 
 
 On the 19th of January 1800, I quitted Constan- 
 tinople, on my way to Egypt, in company with the 
 late Brigadier General Koehler, the late Sir Richard 
 Fletcher, the late Archdeacon Carlyle, Arabic pro- 
 fessor at Cambridge, and Mr. Pink, of the corps of 
 Royal Military Surveyors, and Draftsmen. We 
 were well armed, and dressed as Tatar Couriers ; 
 and the whole party, including servants, baggage, 
 
 B 
 
 pf 
 
Ch. 1 
 
 Turkish attendants, and postillions, formed a cara- 
 van of thirty-live horses. At this time, there were 
 two roads across Asia Minor, used by messengers 
 and other persons, travelling post between the 
 Grand Vizier's army, and the capital ; the one 
 meeting the south coast at Adalia, the other at 
 Kel^nderi. We deferred deciding as to which we 
 should follow, until we should arrive at the point 
 of separation. 
 
 We left Iskiodar (in Greek, Uxovraciov, Skut&ri) 
 at 1 1 a.m., and travelled for four hours along the 
 borders of the sea of Marmora, through one of the 
 most delightful tracts in the neighbourhood of Con- 
 stantinople; its beauty heightened by the mildness 
 of the weather and the clearness of the atmosphere. 
 On our right was the tranquil expanse of the sea of 
 Marmora, as far as the high woody coast on the 
 south side of Nicomedia, surmounted by the ma- 
 jestic summits of the Bithynian Olympus. In the 
 midst of this magnificent basin were seen imme- 
 diately before us the Princes Islands, with their pic- 
 turesque villages and convents, amidst pine groves 
 and vineyards. The road led sometimes through 
 rich pastures, covered with sheep, but, for the most 
 part, through the gardens which supply a large pro- 
 portion of the vegetables consumed in the city and 
 its suburbs. Already the beans, and other produc- 
 tions of the spring, were in a forward state. The 
 road was in some places muddy, but in general 
 
Ch. L 3 
 
 very good. Kartal, where we arrived at the end of 
 four hours, is a small place upon the edge of the 
 gulf, in the midst of a fertile and well cultivated 
 district, and has a harbour for small vessels. Half 
 an hour further is a Greek village, which preserves 
 unaltered the ancient name Uuvrt-^tov, pronounced 
 Pandikhi. 
 
 Jan. 20. — From Kartal to Ghebse* five hours, 
 passing through Pandikhi ; and at the end of three 
 hours Tuzla, so called from the salt-works belong- 
 ing to it. The road winds along the side of the 
 gulf, which, as it narrows, presents a great variety 
 of beautiful landscapes. The soil affords a fine 
 pasture, in some parts of which appear rocks of 
 blue and white marble, .projecting above the sur- 
 face; and several remains of ancient quarries. We 
 met a Mollah travelling in a Taktrevan, lounging 
 upon soft cushions, smoking his Narghile* ~*f , and 
 accompanied by splendidly-dressed attendants on 
 horseback. His baggage-horses were loaded with 
 mattresses and coverings for his sofas ; with valises 
 containing his clothes ; a large assortment of pipes ; 
 
 * The rule which I have observed in writing Turkish names, 
 requires the reader to pronounce the vowels as in Italian, 
 and the consonants as in English. Gh, Dh, and Kh, are in- 
 tended to express the aspirated forms of G, D, K. The ac- 
 cent is marked in all words, the sound of which might be 
 doubtful without it. 
 
 f A kind of pipe in which the smoke is made to pass through 
 water : used in every part of the East. 
 
 b2 
 
4 Cli. 1. 
 
 tables of copper ; cauldrons ; saucepans ; and a 
 complete batterie de cuisine. Such a mode of tra- 
 velling is undoubtedly very different from that 
 which was in use among the Turks of Osman, and 
 Orkhan. The articles of the Mollah's baggage 
 are, probably, for the most part, of Greek origin, 
 adopted from the conquered nation in the same 
 manner as the Latins borrowed the arts of the 
 Greeks of a better age. In fact, it is in a great 
 degree to Greek luxuries, with the addition of coffee 
 and tobacco, that the present imbecile condition of 
 these barbarians is to be ascribed ; and " Graecia 
 capta ferum victorem cepit " applies as well to the 
 Turk as it once did to the Roman ; for though 
 Grecian art in its perfection may be degraded by a 
 comparison with the arts of the Byzantine Greeks, 
 yet in the scale of civilization, the Turks did not 
 bear a higher proportion to these than the Romans 
 did to the ancient Greeks. 
 
 Ghebse, called by the Greeks Givyza* (K/£y£«), 
 is a Turkish town, having a few Greek houses. 
 The only remarkable object in it is a fine mosque 
 of white marble, surrounded by a grove of large 
 
 * The initial K, P, T, in names o. places have generally 
 among the modern Greeks the sound of G, B, I) : this auses 
 from their practice of using those names in the accusative case 
 preceded by crijv ; for v before v., nr, r, gives the harder kindred 
 sound to the vowel which follows. Before it the v becomes con- 
 verted into m : as, crr^v TtoXiv — Constantinople, pronounced 
 stim bolin. Whence the Turkish Stambol. 
 
Ch. I. 5 
 
 cypresses, both of the pointed kind and of that of 
 which the branches are looser and more spreading. 
 This mosque, and some good baths, were built by 
 Mustafa - Pasha, who was Grand Vizier to Sultan 
 Selim the First at the time of the conquest of Egypt. 
 An imperfect Greek inscription was the only indi- 
 cation which I observed of Ghebse being on the 
 site of a Greek city. 
 
 Jan. 21. — From Ghebse to Kizderw&it, nine 
 hours. Our route for the first three hours was pa- 
 rallel to the shore of the gulf, which here presents, 
 on either side, a beautiful scenery of abrupt capes 
 and woody promontories, with villages upon the 
 sides of the mountains, and corn-fields and vine- 
 yards to their very tops. The road then descends to 
 the water-side under the small village of Malsiim, 
 where a long tongue of land, projecting from the 
 opposite shore, affords a convenient ferry of about 
 two miles across, to the south side of the gulf. It 
 is called the ferry of the Dil (tongue), and being 
 much frequented, is well supplied with large boats 
 and constant attendance. The persons employed 
 in it are lodged in tents by the water-side. We 
 write to our friends at Constantinople by a hunts- 
 man of the Sultan, who is returning from the chace 
 loaded with pheasants, partridges, and other game, 
 which he has been killing for the Imperial table in 
 the woods near the gulf. It takes us two hours to 
 unload, cross the ferry, and reload. We then ride 
 
6 Ch. 1. 
 
 three miles along the Oil before we gain the line of 
 coast. Leaving the town of Ersek at no great di- 
 stance on our right, we proceed up a beautiful val- 
 ley, watered by a river which joins the gulf near the 
 Dil. This river we cross more than twenty times ; 
 passing through the water, or over good stone 
 bridges. In many places the river falls in cascades 
 over the rocks. The sky is without a cloud ; and 
 the temperature that of England in April or May. 
 The ground is covered with violets, crocusst-s, and 
 hyacinths. The road being excellent, we travel 
 nearly at the rate of four miles and a half an hour, 
 and complete our computed journey of nine hours 
 in seven. We passed a ruined castle of the lower 
 Greek empire, with many towers. On the slopes 
 on either side are seen flocks of sheep and goats ; 
 in the valley the peasants are at plough, and we 
 meet long caravans of camels tied together, and 
 preceded by an ass. As we approach Kizderwent, 
 which is situated in a retired part of the valley, 
 near the source of the river which we have been 
 following, we enter an extensive mulberry planta- 
 tion, this being one of the numerous villages in the 
 neighbourhood that supply Brusa with the excellent 
 silk for which it is noted in the commercial world. 
 Vineyards, on the slopes of the hills around, furnish 
 also a tolerable wine. Kizderwent (the pass of the 
 girls) having the misfortune to lie upon the great 
 road from Constantinople to Brusa, Kutaya, and 
 
Ch. 1. 7 
 
 Konia, is exposed to a thousand vexations from 
 passengers, notwithstanding the privileges and ex- 
 emptions which have been granted to it by the 
 Porte. It is inhabited solely by Greeks. Upon our 
 arrival we found our konakji, or Tatar courier, who 
 has the charge of riding forward to procure lodgings 
 (konak), seated over a blazing fire in a neat cottage, 
 which formed a favourable contrast to the meanness 
 and want of comfort seen amidst the pretended mag- 
 nificence of some of the Turkish houses which we 
 had seen. To judge from what we have hitherto 
 observed, the lower order of Christians are not in a 
 worse condition in Asia Minor than the same class 
 of Turks ; and if the Christians of European Turkey 
 have some advantages arising from the effects of the 
 superiority of their numbers over the Turks, those of 
 Asia have the satisfaction of seeing that the Turks 
 are as much oppressed by the men in power as they 
 are themselves ; and they have to deal with a race 
 of Mussulmans generally milder, more religious, 
 and better principled than those of Europe. 
 
 Jan. 22. — We travel in a fine valley, continually 
 ascending. At the end of an hour we come sud- 
 denly upon a view of the lake Ascanius. It is about 
 ten miles long, and four wide; surrounded on three 
 sides by steep woody slopes, behind which rise the 
 snowy summits of the Olympus range. A forest of 
 Ilex, and other evergreens, mixed with oaks, cover 
 the nearer hills; while on the left, along the head of 
 
8 
 
 Ch. 1 
 
 the lake, we perceive a rich cultivated plain, at the 
 extremity of which, soon afterwards appears, on the 
 edge of the lake, the entire circuit of the ancient 
 walls of Nicaea, with their massy towers and gates. 
 Nothing is more striking in this magnificent pro- 
 spect, than that clearness of atmosphere, and bril- 
 liancy of colouring, which is so seldom seen in our 
 northern scenery. We make the circuit of the 
 northern end of the lake ; passing for ten miles 
 through the plain, and traversing plantations of 
 olives, mulberries, and vines : the almond-trees 
 were already in blossom. At about two miles on 
 our left, we saw an ancient triangular obelisk, stand- 
 ing single in the middle of the plain. It bears an in- 
 scription, which has been published by Pococke, 
 and which proves that the obelisk was erected in 
 honour of C. Cassius Philiscus. Having passed 
 through one of the ancient gates of Nicaea, and 
 through the garden ground now inclosed within its 
 walls, we arrive at the wretched Turkish town of 
 Isnik, distant five complete hours, or about twenty 
 miles, from Kizdervvent. 
 
 4mong the ancient places situated between Con- 
 stantinople and Nicaea, there is sufficient evidence 
 of the situation of Scutarium * and Pantichium -j~, 
 in the preservation of their ancient names. Givyza 
 
 * OpX™ 7 }! • • • . ijA9s it obi tou Bvgavrlou ttjv Uspaiotv, o 
 1x.ovrd.pioy ipyjap\ w $ ovopafyrai. — Cantacuz. 1. 4. c. 4. 
 t Antonin. ltin. eel. Wessel. p. 139. Hterosol. It. p. 5/2. 
 
Ch. 1. 9 
 
 has generally been supposed a corruption of Libys- 
 sa, the name of a small maritime town, celebrated 
 as having been the burying-place of Hannibal ; but 
 Givyza is more probably a corruption of Dacibyza; 
 being, when written in Greek (K/Su£«), no other 
 than the ancient Auxi&vfyt, with the loss of the first 
 syllable. The thirty-six or thirty-nine Roman miles, 
 moreover, placed in the itinerary, between Chalce- 
 donia and Libyssa, will not agree so well with the 
 nine hours from Skutari to Givyza, as with the 
 twelve hours to Malsiim ; which place, therefore, I 
 take to stand on the site of Libyssa. Plutarch ap- 
 pears to confirm this supposition, for in mentioning 
 Libyssa *, he speaks of a sandy place near it on the 
 sea-side, answering to the promontory of Dil, which, 
 as we have seen, is immediately below Maldysem or 
 Malsum. Dacibyza is mentioned by several of the 
 historians of the Lower Empire, as a place where, 
 by order of the Arian Emperor Valens, eighty priests 
 of the opposite sect were burned, with the ship 
 wherein they were embarked f . The river descend- 
 ing from Kizderw^nt to the Dil, can be no other 
 than the Draco, which joined the sea at Helenopolis, 
 a small town, so named by Constantine in honour 
 of his mother : for it seems evident, upon compar- 
 
 * 'Ev §s BiQvvla. rciros ^r\ Snvuifys dto $u\d<r<rr)s xcc) itphs 
 autui Kwpy) rtg ou fjt,eyd\r) A'&vtrtra. xaXsltxi — Plutarch, in Flam. 
 
 t Zonaras, 1, 13. c. 16. Socrates, 1.4. c. 16. Sozomen 6. 
 c. 14. Ccdrenus, p. 31 1. Theophanes, p. 50. 
 
10 
 
 Ch. 1. 
 
 
 ing Procopius with Anna Comnena, that Helenopo- 
 lis was at or near Ersek. The Dil has been formed 
 by the alluvial deposition of the Draco; whose impe- 
 tuosity has been well described by Procopius, as well 
 as its winding course *. In riding from the Dil to 
 Kizderw6it, I remarked that we traversed the river 
 about twenty times, without being aware that Pro- 
 copius has made precisely the same remark with 
 regard to the Draco j\ — I" the first crusade, the 
 passes of this stream were fatal to many of the fol- 
 lowers of Peter the Hermit ; who, after having by 
 the assistance of the Emperor Alexius crossed the 
 sea from Constantinople, encamped at Helenopolis. 
 From thence they proceeded to ravage the country 
 around Nicaea, which city was then in the posses- 
 sion of the Turks of Kilidj Arslan ; and they occu- 
 pied the fortress of Xerigordus. But this place was 
 soon retaken by the Sultan ; who slew many of the 
 Franks, captured others, and destroyed a still greater 
 number by means of an ambuscade, which he sta- 
 tioned in the passes of the Draco ;j\ 
 
 In the evening we found time to walk among the 
 ruins of Nicaea. The ancient walls, towers, and 
 gates are in tolerably good preservation. Their 
 
 * Procop. de MdlL 1. 5. c. 2. Hist. Arcan. c. 30. Anna Comn. 
 1. 10. p. 287. 
 
 t AiotSodveiv avrbv itKstov 17 alx.oadx.ts £<rt) ro~s frfie hutri. 
 Proc. de/Edif. 1.5. c.2. 
 
 J Anna Comnena, 1. 10. p. 286. cd. Paris. 
 
CU. 1. 
 
 11 
 
 construction resembles that of the walls of Con- 
 stantinople, with which they are coseval. In most 
 places they are formed of alternate courses of Ro- 
 man tiles, and of large square stones, joined by a ce- 
 ment of great thickness. In some places have been 
 inserted columns, and other architectural fragments, 
 the ruins of more ancient edifices. Of the towers, 
 those on the edge of the lake, and on either side of 
 the different gates, are the largest and most perfect. 
 We remark, also, the remains of two walls which 
 projected from the main inclosure into the water, 
 and which were undoubtedly intended to exclude, 
 when necessary, all communication under the walls, 
 along the edge of the lake. Some of the towers, 
 like those of Constantinople, have Greek inscrip- 
 tions; these have been published in the Inscrip- 
 tiones Antiqupe of Pococke. The ruins of mosques, 
 baths, and houses, dispersed among the gardens 
 and corn-fields, which now occupy a great part of 
 the space within the Greek fortifications, show that 
 the Turkish Isnik, though now so inconsiderable, 
 was once a place of importance, as indeed its hi- 
 story under the early Ottomans, before they were 
 in possession of Constantinople, gives sufficient rea- 
 son to presume. But it never was so large as the 
 Grecian Nicaea, and it seems to have been almost 
 entirely constructed of the remains of that city; 
 the walls of the ruined mosques and baths being full 
 ol the fragments of Greek temples and chinches. 
 
12 
 
 CI). I. 
 
 Jan. 23. — From Isnik to Lefke, six hours, and 
 from Lefke to Vezir-Khan, four hours. We rise 
 at two in the morning ; but as it takes near three 
 hours for the whole party to breakfast, pack up the 
 baggage, and load the horses, we are not ready till 
 five, and have then to wait an hour and a half for 
 horses. We soon leave the borders of the beauti- 
 ful lake of Isnik, and proceed up a valley, which we 
 quit after three or four miles, and suddenly ascend 
 to the left a hill of moderate height. Soon losing 
 sight of the lake, we advance along an elevated bar- 
 ren country, until we enter a deep ravine formed by 
 towering cliffs on either side, where a great variety of 
 luxuriant evergreens spring from among the rocks. 
 The ravine leads into a valley, where the same kind 
 of scenery receives additional beauty from the con- 
 trast which opens upon us of a fine valley, watered 
 by the Sakaria, a name corrupted from the an- 
 cient Sangarius, although this river is not the 
 main branch of the Sangarius, but that which was 
 anciently called Gallus *. Lefke, a neat town built 
 of sun-baked bricks, is situated in the middle of 
 this beautiful valley near the river, which we crossed 
 
 * A similar Confusion as to the Gallus and Sangarius seems 
 to have prevailed in ancient times. Herodian places the city 
 Pessinus on the Gallus; although we know from Polybius, 
 Livy, and Strabo, that it stood on the banks of the Sangarius, 
 not far from the sources of that river. Strabo, in describing 
 the Gallus as the branch which joins the main river 300 stades 
 from Nicomedia, has identified it with the river of Lefke. 
 
CI.. 1 
 
 13 
 
 by a handsome stone bridge a little before we en- 
 tered the town. We find the cultivation in this 
 valley as perfect as that of some of the most civi- 
 lized parts of Europe. The fields are separated by 
 neat hedges and ditches. Extensive plantations of 
 mulberry-trees, mixed with vineyards and corn- 
 fields, occupy the lower grounds, while cultivated 
 patches are seen to a great height in the hills, 
 which in other parts furnish a fine pasture to sheep 
 and goats. This delightful region exhibits a most 
 picturesque contrast with the unevenness and gran- 
 deur of the surrounding mountains. We were told 
 there had lately been an insurrection, with the de- 
 sign of expelling an obnoxious Kadi, but we did 
 not perceive the least symptom of disturbance. 
 We follow the valley, passing many villages on 
 either hand, for four hours more, to Vezir-Khan. 
 Since leaving the gulf of Nicomedia we have seen 
 no marks of wheel-carriages, and we met with 
 scarcely any person on the road during this day's 
 journey, except a party of Turkish horsemen with 
 their dogs, in search of hares. The Turks of this 
 part of the country are an extremely handsome 
 race: they have a great variety of head-dresses, 
 most of which are highly becoming to their fine 
 countenances. The women who appear abroad are 
 invariably dressed in the shapeless ferije, and the 
 veil so often described by travellers. At Vezir- 
 Khan we were lodged in a small mud-built house, 
 
14 
 
 Ch. 1. 
 
 and had to wait a considerable time before our at- 
 tendants could prevail upon the people to kill the 
 fowls intended for our dinner, and to send men to 
 the river to catch some fish. The valley around is 
 covered with extensive plantations of mulberry- 
 trees, and with orchards, vineyards, and corn-fields, 
 inclosed with hedges ; but to these signs of neat- 
 ness and comfort there is a great contrast in the 
 misery of the houses. 
 
 Jan. 24. — From Vezir-Khan to Shughut, eight 
 hours : the weather still delightfully clear and mild. 
 For the first two hours we continue to pursue the 
 valley, and then ascend a lofty ridge, a branch of 
 Olympus. It incloses on the east the valleys wa- 
 tered by the branches of the Sangarius which we 
 have passed, as the heights between Isnik and 
 Lefke do on the opposite side. Our road across 
 the mountain presents some wild scenery of broken 
 rocks and barren downs with little or no wood, 
 and occasionally the view of extensive valleys on 
 either side. At the summit of the ridge we pass 
 a Karakol-hane (guard-house), and at the foot of 
 the mountain on the east side we enter some plea- 
 sant valleys, conducting into an open expanse of 
 undulated ground, well cultivated with corn. It 
 gives a favourable idea of Asiatic husbandry ; but 
 there is little appearance of inhabitants, only three 
 or four small villages being in sight in the whole 
 of our day's journey. The weather being dry the 
 
Ch. 1. 
 
 15 
 
 road is excellent; but in seasons of rain it must be 
 quite the reverse, on account of the rich deep soil. 
 At the further end of this champaign country we 
 perceive the town of Shughut, and upon an adja- 
 cent hill the tomb of Ali Osman, founder of the 
 Ottoman dynasty. Shughut was bestowed upon 
 Ertogrul, the father of Osman, by the Sultan of 
 Konia, for his services in war; and became the 
 capital of a small state, which included the adja- 
 cent country as far as A'ngura on the east, and in 
 the opposite direction all the mountainous district 
 lying between the valleys of the Sangarius and 
 those of the Hermus and Maander. From hence 
 Osman made himself master of Nicasa and Prusa, 
 and gradually of all Bithynia and Phrygia, and thus 
 laid the foundations of the Turkish greatness. 
 There is another tomb of Osman at Brusa, the most 
 important of the places which he conquered from the 
 Greeks. But the Turks of this part of Asia Minor 
 assert that the monument at Brusa is a cenotaph, 
 and that the bones of Osman were laid by the side 
 of those of his father Ertogrul in his native town. 
 The tomb is built like some of the handsomest and 
 most ancient of the Turkish sepulchres at Constan- 
 tinople, and is situated in the midst of a grove of 
 cypresses and evergreen oaks. 
 
 The town is said to contain 900 houses, but now 
 exhibits a wretched appearance, chiefly in conse- 
 quence of a late insurrection of the inhabitants, a 
 
10 
 
 Ch. 1. 
 
 party of 300 of whom have put to death, within 
 three months, three different Ayans sent here by 
 the Porte. At present the government of Constan- 
 tinople has the upper hand, and the insurgents 
 have been obliged to fly to the mountains ; but we 
 find the new governor with all his troops still on 
 the alertc to prevent the place from being once 
 more surprised and pillaged. Our situation is ren- 
 dered still more uncomfortable by the discovery we 
 now make, that our travelling firmahn, in conse- 
 quence of an intrigue at Constantinople, of which 
 we too well know the original mover, is drawn up 
 in such a manner as to leave it in the power of any 
 of the Turks to obstruct our progress ; and the 
 Ayan of Shughut accordingly takes advantage of it 
 to extort a present before he will give us the small- 
 est assistance. We are wretchedly lodged in a 
 ruinous apartment over a stable occupied by the 
 Ayan's cavalry ; and cannot prevent the soldiers 
 from coming into the room, or from examining our 
 arms and baggage. There are large plantations of 
 mulberries around the town, and every house ma- 
 nufactures a considerable quantity of raw silk. 
 
 Jan. 25. — It is nine o'clock before we can pro- 
 cure any horses, and then find none to be had but 
 some wretched animals covered with sores, and al- 
 most skeletons. At first setting out they are hardly 
 able to walk ; but to our surprise we find, before 
 we have travelled many miles, that most of them 
 
Ch. 1. 
 
 17 
 
 have a very easy and rapid pace ; they performed 
 a journey of ten hours' distance with only a few 
 short halts, and arrived at our konak at Eski-shehr 
 apparently in better travelling condition than when 
 they set out. Our road indeed is dry and level, 
 and the weather still fine. Half the route was over 
 mountains, and woody ; the latter half over an ex- 
 tensive plain not less than 30 miles in length and 
 10 in breadth, but very thinly peopled and not 
 above one-third cultivated. Seven or eight miles 
 short of Eski-shehr are some ancient Greek ruins 
 upon a rising ground in the plain. Amidst a great 
 number of scattered fragments of columns, and 
 other remnants of architecture, we find several 
 square pedestals or arrfkai of a clumsy construction, 
 with some almost-defaced fragments of Greek in- 
 scriptions, in which we endeavoured in vain to dis- 
 cover the name of the city, though the word noktg 
 was visible. The ruins are called Besh-Kardash 
 (the five brothers) ; the number of pedestals stand- 
 ing, however, is more than five, but five is a fa- 
 vourite number with the Turks : the generality of 
 whom, having little idea of numerical accuracy, 
 confine themselves in common conversation to a 
 few numbers, which they particularly affect. These 
 numbers are 5, 15, 40, 100, and 1001. 
 
 Eski-shehr is about the same size as Shughut, 
 and is advantageously situated on the root of the 
 hills which border on the north the great plain 
 
 c 
 
18 
 
 Ch. 1 
 
 already mentioned. The town is divided into an 
 upper and lower quarter; and is traversed by a 
 small stream, which at the foot of the hills joins 
 the Pursek, or ancient Thymbres. This river rises 
 to the south of Kut&ya, passes by that city, and joins 
 the Sangarius a few hours to the north-east of Eski- 
 shehr. This place is now celebrated for its natural 
 hot-baths: we were unable to ascertain whether 
 it preserves any remains of antiquity * ; but there 
 can be little doubt that it stands upon the site of 
 Dorylseum. The plain of Dorylseum is often men- 
 tioned by the Byzantine historians as the place of 
 assembly of the armies of the Eastern empire in 
 their wars against the Turks, and it is described by 
 Anna Comnena -J- as being the first extensive plain 
 of Phrygia after crossing the ridges of Mount 
 Olympus from Nicsea, and after passing Leucae. 
 As we have the strongest evidence of the position 
 of Leucse in the name of the village Lefke, which 
 is exactly the modern pronunciation of the Greek 
 Aevxut, there cannot be any doubt that the plain of 
 Dorylseum is that which surrounds Eski-shehr. 
 
 The site of the ancient town is not less decisively 
 fixed at Eski-shehr. Athenaeus speaks of the hot 
 
 * Mr. M. Kinneir found some antique remains, and copied 
 some Christian Greek inscriptions here. Paul Lucas found some 
 ruins, and transcribed some incomplete inscriptions at an Ar- 
 menian village an hour and a half from Eski-shehr. 
 
 t Ann. Comn. 1. 11. p. 317— . I. 15. p. 469. 
 
Ch. 1 
 
 19 
 
 waters of Dorylaeum, and remarks that they are very 
 pleasant to the taste. Cinnamus mentions the hot 
 baths, the fertile plain, and the river of Dorylseum * ; 
 and the site is indicated with equal certainty by 
 the ancient itineraries -j~: for from Dorylseum di- 
 verged roads, to Philadelphia ; to Apameia Cibotus ; 
 to Laodiceia Combusta, and Iconium ; to Germa, 
 and to Pessinus : a coincidence of lines which 
 (their remote extremities being nearly certain) will 
 not apply to any point but Eski-shehr, or some 
 place in its immediate neighbourhood. The posi- 
 tion of Eski-shehr accords also with the Antonine 
 and Jerusalem itineraries, inasmuch as we observe 
 in these tables, that the road from Nicasa to An- 
 cyra did not pass through Dorylaeum, but to the 
 northward of it; and Eski-shehr is about thirty 
 miles to the southward of a line drawn from Isnik 
 to A'ngura. 
 
 The Aga of Eski-shehr was formerly in the go- 
 vernment of a town six hours distant, the name of 
 which we neglected to note. He had long been at 
 war with the governor of Eski-shehr, and at length 
 having acquired the preponderancy so far as to carry 
 off all his opponent's sheep and cattle, he followed 
 up his successes last year with such increased energy 
 that he added his rival's head to the other spoils, 
 and has since been in undisturbed possession of 
 
 * Athen. 1. 2, c. 5. ed. Casaub. Cinnam. 1. G, c. 74. 
 t Tab. Peutinger. Segm. vi. Anton. Itin. p. 202. 
 
 c 2 
 
20 
 
 Ch. 1. 
 
 both places, and confirmed in his authority by the 
 Porte. 
 
 Jan. 26. — From Eski-shehr to Seid-el-Ghazi, a 
 computed distance of nine hours. We have a sharp 
 wind at east. Our road for the first half of the jour- 
 ney continues to cross the same wide uncultivated 
 plains ; but towards the end they are more broken 
 into hill and dale, and appear less wild and desolate. 
 Scarcely a tree is to be seen through the whole 
 day's journey. Upon the edge of the plains we 
 observe in many places sepulchral chambers exca- 
 vated in the rocks. In these, and in the fragments 
 of ancient architecture dispersed in different parts 
 of the plains, we have undoubted proofs of their an- 
 cient cultivation and populousness. At about half 
 way we found, near a fountain, several inscribed 
 stones. The annexed is the only inscription I could 
 decypher : 
 
 AHMAEKAI 
 
 rAIOEYIIEP 
 BOCDNIAICDNIIA 
 IIIAAI 1ECUTII 
 PIEYXHNKAI 
 HPAKAHANIK 
 
 HT. 
 
 It appears to be a dedication of thanks to Jupiter 
 Papias, the Saviour, and Hercules, the Invincible, 
 for their care of the oxen of Demas and Gaius. 
 
 This inscription is upon a flat slab, surmounted 
 with a pediment, in the middle of which is a caput 
 oovis, with a festoon. Here also is a square stele, 
 
Ch. 1. 
 
 21 
 
 with an ornamented cornice ; on one of its sides 
 is an obliterated inscription, in the centre of a gar- 
 land. 
 
 The latter part of our journey is over low ridges ; 
 the road throughout is excellent, and fit for wheel- 
 carriages. Seid-el-Ghazi is a poor ruined village, 
 but it bears marks of having once been a place of 
 more importance, even in Turkish times; upon 
 the side of a hill which commands the village, there 
 is a fine mosque dedicated to the Mussulman saint 
 from whom the place derives its name. There are 
 also several fragments of architecture which fix it 
 as the site of an ancient Greek city. 
 
 Jan. 27. — From Seid-el-Ghazi to Kosru Pasha- 
 Khany, the distance is seven hours ; but we made 
 a detour to the right of the direct road, for the sake 
 of viewing some monuments of antiquity, which 
 were reported to us at Seid-el-Ghazi. We first 
 ascend for some distance, and pass over an elevated 
 stony heath, in a direction to the westward of south ; 
 we then enter a forest of pine-trees, from many of 
 which they had been extracting the turpentine, by 
 making an incision at the foot of the tree, and then 
 lighting a fire under it. By these means the resin 
 descends rapidly, and is soon collected in large 
 quantities, but the tree is killed ; and it sometimes 
 happens that the fire communicating destroys large 
 tracts of the forest. We saw several remains of 
 these conflagrations as we passed along. After tra- 
 
9.9. 
 
 Ch. 1 
 
 versing the forest for an hour, we came in sight of 
 a beautiful valley, situated in the midst of it. Turn- 
 ing to the left, after we had descended into the val- 
 ley, we found it to be a small plain, about a mile long 
 and a quarter of a mile broad, embosomed in the 
 forest, and singularly variegated with rocks, which 
 rise perpendicularly out of the soil, and assume the 
 shape of ruined towers and castles. Some of these 
 are upwards of 150 feet in height, and one or two, 
 entirely detached from the rest, have been excavated 
 into ancient catacombs, with doors and windows, 
 and galleries, in such a manner that it required a 
 near inspection to convince us that what we saw were 
 natural rocks, and not towers and buildings. We 
 found the chambers within to have been sepulchres, 
 containing excavations for coffins, and niches for 
 cinerary vases. Following the course of the valley 
 to the S.E., we came in sight of some sepulchral 
 chambers, excavated with more art, and having a 
 portico with two columns before the door, above 
 which a range of dentils forms a cornice. But the 
 most remarkable of these excavations, is that which 
 will best be understood by the annexed sketch of it, 
 taken by General Koehler, while Mr. Carlyle and 
 myself were employed in copying two inscriptions 
 engraved upon the face of the rock. In the upper 
 inscription a few letters are deficient at the begin- 
 ning and end ; the lower appeared to us to be com- 
 plete. The letters of the first are larger and wider 
 
Ch. 1 
 
 23 
 
 asunder than those of the second. Both are written 
 from left to right, but in the lower inscription the 
 letters are written downwards, along the edge of the 
 monument, so that to place the eyes upon the same 
 line with the inscription, the head must be held side- 
 ways. The rock which has been shaped into this 
 singular monument rises to a height of upwards of 
 one hundred feet above the plain ; and at the back, 
 and on one of the sides, remains in its natural state. 
 The ornamented part is about sixty feet square, 
 surmounted by a kind of pediment, above which 
 are two volutes. The figures cut upon the rock are 
 no where more than an inch deep below the sur- 
 face, except towards the bottom, where the exca- 
 vation is much deeper, and resembles an altar. It 
 is not impossible, however, that it may conceal the 
 entrance into the sepulchral chamber, where lie the 
 remains of the person in whose honour this magni- 
 ficent monument was formed ; for in some other 
 parts of Asia Minor, especially at Telmissus, we 
 have examples of the wonderful ingenuity with 
 which the ancients sometimes defended the entrance 
 into their tombs. There can be little doubt that 
 the monument was sepulchral ; the crypts and ca- 
 tacombs in the excavated rocks around it prove that 
 the valley was set apart for such purposes, to which 
 its singularly retired position and romantic scenery, 
 amidst these extensive forests, rendered it peculiarly 
 well adapted. 
 
24 
 
 CrJh. 1. 
 
 The valley bears the name of Doganlu, frorom a 
 neighbouring village which we did not see., , but 
 where, according to the information we receieived, 
 are remains of an ancient fortification, calledid by 
 the Turks Pismesh Kalesi. I am inclined^ to 
 think they mark the site of Nacoleia *, named:d by 
 Strabo among the cities . of Phrygia Epicte:etus, 
 together with Cotyaeium, Doryleeum, and ] Mi- 
 daeium ; the first of which places (now Kut^taya) 
 is within twenty geographical miles, in direct t di- 
 stance, to the north-westward of Doganlu ; ; the 
 second, Dorylaeum (Eski-shehr), is at nearly t that 
 distance to the north of Doganlu ; and Midaiiium 
 was to the north-eastward, distant about 35 G. . M. 
 direct. But a still closer argument, in favounr of 
 this situation of Nacoleia, is derived from a ccom- 
 parison of the several routes leading from D(*ory- 
 laeum, as stated in the ancient itineraries, with tltheir 
 directions on the map. These roads are fivee in 
 number; and though little reliance can be plaaced 
 upon the distances between the several places, the 
 order of names furnishes evidence that cannot t be 
 very erroneous, and the positions of the placess at 
 
 * Nacoleia was the chief fortress of this country in the rf eign 
 of Arcadius . whose officer,, Count Tribigild, with a garriscon of 
 Ostrogoths, rebelled against the Emperor, and reduced all 1 the 
 neighbouring country. Philostorg. 1. 1 1 . c. 8. For an accournt of 
 the rebellion of Gainas and Tribigild, which illustrates seweral 
 points of Asiatic geography, see Gibbon, c. 32, and the autlhors 
 to whom he refers. 
 
Ch. 1. 
 
 25 
 
 the extremity of eaeh route are known with tolera- 
 ble accuracy. The first of the roads, as they are 
 arranged in the subjoined note *, led by Midaium 
 to Pes sin us ; the second byArchelaium to Germa, 
 now Yerma ; the third conducted south-eastward 
 to Synnada, Philomelium, and Laodieeia Combusta 
 (now Yorgan Ladik) ; the fourth by Nacoleia and 
 Eumenia to Apameia Cibotus; and the fifth south- 
 westward, by Cotyaium to Philadelphia (Allah- 
 Shehr). Now, although the site neither of Apa- 
 
 * I. Dorileo 28 Mideo 28 Tricomia 21 Pessinunte. Total 
 77 M. P. to Pessinus : the distance on the map is 
 about 55 G. M. d. 
 II. Iter a Dorilao :— Arcelaio M. P. 30, Germa M. P. 20. 
 Total 50 M.P: the distance on the map is 57 G. 
 M. d. 
 
 III. Dorileo Docymeo 32 Synnada 32 Julias 35 Philomelo 
 
 28 Laudicia Catacecaumeno. Total 127 M. P. plus 
 the distance from Dorylaeum to Docimia. The di- 
 stance upon the map is about 130 G. M. d. 
 
 IV. Dorileo 20 Necolea 40 Conni 32 Eucarpia 30 Eume- 
 
 nia Pella 12 ad vicum 14 Apamea Ciboton. Total 
 148 M. P. The distance upon the map is about 100 
 G. M. d. 
 V. Dorileo, 30 Cocleo (lege Cotyaeo) 35 Agmonia 25 
 Aludda 30 Clanudda 35 Philadelfia. Total 155 M.P. 
 The distance upon the map is about 1 20 G.M. d. The 
 second of these roads is from the Antonine itinerary, 
 the other four from the Peutinger Tabic. 
 The proportion between the real distances, ar.d the amount 
 of the several computed distances in Roman miles, shows that 
 the distance, in the itineraries, from one place to another, can- 
 not be relied on to within ten or twelve miles. In many in- 
 stances, the errors of the Table are still greater. 
 
26 
 
 Ch. 1 
 
 meia Cibotus, Synnada, nor Pessinus, has yet been 
 explored, their situations are very nearly certain. 
 Apameia was at the source of the Mseander, and 
 bore a little westward of south from Eski-shehr. 
 Nacoleia, therefore, bore in about that direction 
 from Dorylasum ; it lay between the roads conduct- 
 ing from that city to Synnada and Laodiceia, and 
 to Cotyaium and Philadelphia ; and it was the first 
 town which occurred on the road to Apameia: all 
 which circumstances accurately accord with the po- 
 sition of Doganlii in respect of Eski-shehr. 
 
 On first beholding the great sculptured rock of 
 the valley of Doganlii, and on remarking the little 
 resemblance which it bears to the works of the 
 Greeks, our idea was, that it might have been 
 formed by the ancient Persians, when in possession 
 of this country; and that the lower part, resembling 
 an altar, might have had some reference to their 
 worship of fire ; but, upon further reflection, there 
 appeared several objections to such a supposition. 
 In the first place, none of the great monuments of 
 the Persians are likely to be found at so great a 
 distance from Susa and Persepolis, in a part of the 
 country of which they had only a temporary pos- 
 session, and which could never have been considered 
 by them otherwise than as a conquered foreign 
 country, of doubtful tenure. Secondly, the style of 
 ornament does not exactly resemble any known 
 monument of the ancient Persians ; and, thirdly, 
 
Ch. 1. 
 
 27 
 
 the characters of the inscriptions, which have every 
 appearance of being coeval with the rest of the 
 work, bear so close a resemblance to the letters of 
 the Greek alphabet, in their earliest form, that the 
 most reasonable conjecture seems to be that this 
 monument is the work of the ancient Phrygians, 
 who, like the Ionians * Lydians, and other nations 
 of Asia Minor, who were in a state of independence 
 before the Persian conquest, made use of an alphabet 
 differing slightly from the Greek, and derived from 
 the same oriental original. While the form of the 
 characters, as well as the vertical ranges of points 
 for noting the separation of the words, bear a 
 marked resemblance to the archaic Greek: on the 
 other hand, some of the words agree with the 
 semi-barbarous style of the sculptured ornaments 
 of this monument, in indicating that the inscrip- 
 tions are not in pure Greek. Both in the resem- 
 blance and dissimilitude, therefore, they accord 
 with what we should expect of the dialect of the 
 Phrygians, whose connexion with Greece is evi- 
 dent from many parts of their early history ; at the 
 same time, that the distinction between the two 
 nations is strongly marked by Herodotus, who 
 gives to the Phrygians the appellation of barba- 
 rians. 
 
 It is further remarkable that the sculpture of the 
 
 * Heroclot. 1. 1. c. 142., 1. 5. c. 59. 
 
28 
 
 Ch. 1. 
 
 monument of Doganki, though unlike any thing of 
 Greek workmanship, is very much in the same 
 style as the elaborate ornaments (equally remote 
 from Grecian taste) which covered the half columns 
 formerly standing on either side of the door of the 
 Treasury of Atreus at Mycenae*, a building said to 
 have been erected by the Cyclopes, who were sup- 
 posed to have been artisans from Asia-f~. 
 
 Upon comparing the alphabet of the monument 
 of Doganld with the archaic Greek, and with the 
 Etruscan, it is observable that there is no greater 
 difference between the three than might be expected 
 in distant and long-separated branches of the same 
 family. It may be remarked, however, that the 
 Greek alphabet, and that of Doganlu, resemble each 
 other much more than they resemble the Etruscan, 
 as well in the form of the letters, as in the impor- 
 tant circumstance of their being written from left 
 to right, instead of from right to left, as the Etrus- 
 can always continued to be ^. 
 
 * Some fragments of these are to be seen in the British 
 Museum. 
 
 f Strabo, p. 373. 
 
 X See Lanzi, Saggio di Lingua Etrusca. There is nothing, 
 however, very surprising in this peculiarity of the Etruscan. 
 The Greek alphabet, like its oriental prototype, was at first 
 written from right to left, then indifferently either way, then 
 alternately, in the manner called boustropliedon ; and lastly, 
 from left to right. It was imported into Etruria at a period 
 when it was written in the earliest manner ; and the Etruscans, 
 by a practice often observable in colonies, seem to have ad- 
 
Ch. 1. 
 
 29 
 
 It may seem a vain attempt to endeavour to ex- 
 plain inscriptions, written in a language or dialect 
 
 hered to the custom after it had been altered in the mother 
 country. 
 
 It can no longer be doubted, from a comparison of the military- 
 architecture and other arts of the Etruscans with those of the 
 Greeks, as well as from that of their language and writing, so 
 ably investigated by Lanzi, that the two people had a common 
 origin, or a common source of civilization. This source, in the 
 opinion of the Greeks, was a people called Pelasgi, the last 
 seat of whose prosperity was the country adjacent to the Thes- 
 salian Olympus. Driven away from thence about the fifteenth 
 century before the Christian sera, they migrated to Asia, Crete, 
 Epirus, and a part of them to Etruria ; where they are said to have 
 been joined, about two centuries afterwards, by a colony from 
 Lydia. We find an evidence of the skill of the Pelasgi in mili- 
 tary architecture, in the circumstance of the Athenians having 
 employed some of those who were settled in Attica to fortify the 
 Acropolis : and it is probable that the peculiar style of building 
 exhibited in the walls of many ancient cities, as well in Greece 
 as in Etruria and Italy, and which is the same in all, had its 
 origin in the Pelasgic school. Hellanicus of Lesbus, and Diony- 
 sius of Halicarnassus, denied that the Etruscans had ever been 
 colonized from Lydia : but in this they were opposed to the 
 general opinion of antiquity, as shown by Herodotus, Strabo, 
 Paterculus, Pliny, Seneca, Plutarch, Appian, Justin, and Ta- 
 citus. At the time of the War of Troy, the Pelasgi possessed 
 the fertile plains on the south-eastern side of Mount Ida, and 
 had given the name of the Thessalian Larissa to their chief 
 town. Horn. II. j8. 840. Several other communities in the sur- 
 rounding parts of Asia Minor were of Pelasgic origin, and Ly- 
 dia is said to have received one of their colonies. (Plutarch in 
 Romulo, Raoul Rochette Hist, des Colonies Grecques.) Etru- 
 ria, therefore, in its manners, arts, language, and writing, could 
 not have been very much altered by the addition of a Lydian 
 colony, if any such event ever took place. Among the nume- 
 
30 
 
 Ch. 1. 
 
 of which we have no other remains; yet as the 
 characters are themselves a proof that there was 
 a great resemblance between this dialect and the 
 Greek, it is not impossible that some light maybe 
 thrown upon ancient history by the monument of 
 Doganlii, if other inscriptions in the same dialect 
 should hereafter be discovered. Upon this subject 
 one or two remarks occur which may not be unim- 
 portant. 
 
 It has already been observed, that the lower 
 inscription beginning BABA is complete, and 
 it may be assumed that the upper, though in- 
 complete at either end, has lost but a few letters. 
 This seems evident, as well from its occupying 
 the whole length of a sort of outer pediment, as 
 from its concluding word, which wants only one 
 letter of being the same as the concluding word 
 of the lower inscription. This concluding word 
 
 rous instances of resemblance between the Etruscan and Mol'ic 
 Greek adduced by Lanzi, 1 shall mention one only, as it is il- 
 lustrated by a discovery of my own. (\\-\s V Aplu, we find, by 
 some of the monuments of Etruria, to have been the Etruscan 
 name for Apollo ; and Plato, in a passage of the Cratylus re- 
 ferred to by Lanzi, observes that 'AttXovv or 'Air\b$ was the 
 name of the Thessalian Apollo. Between Larissa and Mount 
 Olympus, in the part of Thessaly which, as late us the time uf 
 the Roman empire, was called Pelasgiotis, I found two marbles 
 inscribed with dedications to this deity, AIIAOTNI. See Lanzi 
 Saggio di Lingua Etrusca, tomo 2. p. 200, 224 j Walpole's Col- 
 lection of Travels in Turkey, vol. 2. p. 506 ; Classical Journal, 
 No. 52. 
 
Ch. 1. 
 
 31 
 
 is very remarkable ; written in Greek it is E AAE, 
 or EAAE2. Now sdas from W&>, to divide or 
 cut with a sharp instrument, is precisely such a 
 Greek word as one might have expected to find in 
 a very ancient Greek inscription upon a monu- 
 ment, all the apparent merit of which is the cut- 
 ting of squares, lozenges, and other regular figures, 
 upon the smoothed surface of a rock. In examin- 
 ing the other words, we find further resemblances 
 of the Greek. The 2d, 3d, and 4th words of the 
 lower inscription, and the first word of the upper 
 inscription (if it be a single word), all seem to end 
 in sigma, and three of them in oc, thus rendering it 
 not improbable that the words 1, 2, 3, 4, of the lower 
 inscription, contained the name and title of the per- 
 son who engraved that inscription; that the fifth word 
 Htz£[M(jbuv may have indicated some such distinction, 
 as the place from whence he came ; and that the long 
 word, No. 1 . of the upper inscription, was the name of 
 the person who placed that inscription. But the most 
 remarkable words of all are the second and fourth of 
 the upper inscription, which, written in Greek, are 
 MIAAI FANAKTEI, " to King Midas;" and 
 which furnish an immediate presumption that the 
 monument was erected in honour of one of the 
 Kings of Phrygia of the Midaian family. The si- 
 tuation of the place is no less favourable to this sup- 
 position than the construction of the monument, 
 the tenor of the inscription, and the form of the 
 
32 
 
 Ch. 1 
 
 letters ; for it cannot be doubted tbat tbe valley in 
 which the monument stands is precisely in the heart 
 of the country which formed the ancient kingdom 
 of Phrygia. Strabo remarks, that the royal families 
 of Gordius and Midas possessed the countries adja- 
 cent to the river Sangarius, on the banks of which 
 stood the cities of Midaeium and Gordium *. We 
 learn from Pausanias~f~ that Ancyra was founded 
 by Midas, and that in his time, there was a fountain 
 in that city, called the fountain of Midas; and 
 both these authors concur in the testimony % that 
 a tribe of Gauls, in seizing the country adjacent to 
 Ancyra and Pessinus, occupied a part of the ancient 
 dominions of the Gordian dynasty. The fertile 
 valleys of the Sangarius, and its branches, seem, 
 therefore, to have formed the central part of the 
 dominions of the kings of Phrygia. According to 
 this supposition, the date of the monument of Do- 
 ganhi is between the years 740 and 570 before the 
 Christian asra ; for that such was nearly the period 
 of the Gordian dynasty appears from Herodotus §, 
 who informs us that Midas, son of Gordius, was 
 the first of the Barbarians who sent offerings to 
 Delphi, and that his offerings were earlier than 
 
 * Strabo, p. 568. 576. f Attic, c. 4. 
 
 X Strabo, p. 571. Paus.it. 
 
 § Herod. 1. 1. c. 14. Eusebius places the beginning of the 
 reign of the first Midas in the fourth year of the tenth Olympiad, 
 or 737 b.c. 
 
Ch. 1; 
 
 ;}; 
 
 those of Gyges, king of Lydia, who began his reign 
 B.C. 715. Phrygia lost its independence, when all 
 the country to the west of the Halys was subdued 
 by Croesus, king of Lydia, in or about the year 
 572 B.C. A few years afterwards Atys, son of 
 Croesus, was killed accidentally by Adrastus, who 
 was of the royal family of Phrygia, and son of the 
 Gordius who had been rendered tributary to Croe- 
 j sus. As this Gordius was son of a Midas *, and 
 the first Midas was son of a Gordius, it is probable 
 that several of the intermediate monarchs of the 
 dynasty, daring the two centuries of their inde- 
 pendence, bore the same names. 
 
 The distinguishing appellation of the particular 
 Midas to whom the monument was dedicated, 
 seems to be contained in the word of the upper 
 inscription, which occurs between M$u and aVa- 
 xrt^r'y but as we possess no details of the history 
 of independent Phrygia, it is impossible to deter- 
 mine to what period in the two centuries the mo- 
 nument of Doganhi is to be ascribed. In regard 
 to the word BABA, which begins the lower in- 
 
 * Herod. 1. 1. c. 35. 
 
 t The first letter of this word appears to be the old gamma, 
 1* , as written on several ancient monuments. The sixth letter 
 was perhaps a T, of which a part of the upper line has been 
 effaced. Upon this supposition, the name in Greek was 
 TApATTAHS, which bears a resemblance to the royal Lydian 
 names, Sadyattes, Alyattes. 
 
 D 
 
31 
 
 Ch. 1. 
 
 scription, it was probably the highest title of ho- 
 nour at that period. Papas, or Papias, derived from 
 riAIIA, nearly the same word as BABA, and 
 meaning fat/ie?*, was a common epithet of Jupiter 
 in this part of Asia Minor at a subsequent period. 
 The dedication to Jupiter Papias, mentioned in a 
 preceding page, was copied from a marble found at 
 no great distance from Doganhi : and we are in- 
 formed by an ancient author, that Papas was the 
 name of the Bithynian Jupiter *. In another part 
 of the country we find the title applied, by a natu- 
 ral descent, to the magistrate of a city-}-; and it 
 was a common name among the Etruscans, the 
 kinsmen of the Phrygians ;£. 
 
 Close by this magnificent relic of Phrygian art 
 is a very large sepulchral chamber with a portico, 
 of two columns, excavated out of the same reddish 
 sandstone of which the great monument and other 
 rocks are formed. The columns have a plain plinth 
 at the top, and are surmounted by a row of dentils 
 along the architrave. They are of a tapering form, 
 which, together with the general proportions of the 
 work, give it an appearance of the Doric order, 
 
 * Arrian. ap. Eustath in II. e. p. 429. 
 
 t An inscription found by Pococke, at Nysa in the valley of 
 the Maeander, qualifies one Artemidorus as nana.; rwv ttj; iro- 
 Xsuis arrparrfyxv, and as Uaitdi apyjuv. Pococke Inscr. Ant. 
 p. 13. 
 
 * Lanzi, torn. 2. p. 144. 
 
Ch. 1. 
 
 35 
 
 although, in fact, it contains none of the distinctive 
 attributes of that order. It is an exact resemblance 
 of the ordinary cottages of the peasants, which 
 are square frames of wood-work, having a portico 
 supported by two posts made broader at either end. 
 The sepulchral chambers differ only in having their 
 parts more accurately finished ; the dentils corre- 
 spond to the ends of the beams, supporting the flat 
 roof of the cottage. 
 
 I cannot quit the subject of this interesting valley 
 without expressing a wish that future travellers, 
 who may cross Asia Minor by the routes of Eski- 
 shehr or Kutaya, will employ a day or two in a 
 more complete examination of it than circumstances 
 allowed to us ; as it is far from improbable that 
 some inaccuracy or omission may have occurred in 
 our copy of the inscriptions, from the singularity 
 of the characters, the great height of one of the in- 
 scriptions above the ground, and the short time 
 that was allowed us for transcribing and revising 
 them. 
 
 After leaving the great sculptured rock, we fol- 
 lowed the valley for a short distance, and then passed 
 through a wild woody country, having met scarcely 
 any traces of habitations till we reached our konak, 
 at the little village which receives its appellation 
 from the Khan built there by a Pasha of the name 
 of Kosru ; and where we arrived at five in the even- 
 ing, having, according to our calculation, made a 
 
 d 2 
 
3G 
 
 Ch. 1. 
 
 circuit of nine or ten miles more than the direct 
 distance from Seid»el-Ghazi. We had a sharp 
 shower of hail as we galloped through the wood, 
 but the weather soon cleared again. 
 
 Jan. 28. — From Kosru Khan to Bulwudun, 
 twelve hours. We rose at two in the morning : 
 the baggage set off at five, ourselves at six. The 
 road lay through several small woody valleys, and 
 towards the latter part of our journey across a ridge 
 of hills, with a fine soil, containing a few cultivated 
 patches of ground, but for the most part overgrown 
 with brushwood ; at intervals we saw a few flocks of 
 sheep and goats, and in one place a large herd of 
 horned cattle. We saw many sepulchral chambers 
 excavated in the rocks, some of which were orna- 
 mented on the exterior ; others were plain. In 
 several parts of our route, also, were appearances of 
 extensive quarries, from some of which was proba- 
 bly extracted the celebrated Phrygian marble, called 
 Synnadicus, or Docimitis, from the places where it 
 was found. 
 
 This marble was so much esteemed that it was 
 carried to Italy *; and such was the force of fashion 
 or prejudice, that Hadrian placed columns of it in 
 his new buildings at Athens-}-, where the surround- 
 ing mountains abound in the finest marble. At 
 about ten miles from Bulwudun we came in sight 
 
 * Strabo, p. 577. 
 
 1 Paus. Att. c. 18. 
 
Ch. 1 
 
 37 
 
 of that town with a lake beyond it: to the southward 
 was the high range of mountains called Sult&n- 
 dagh, and parallel to it, on the northern side of 
 the plain of Bulwudun, the Emir-dagh. 
 
 From hence we descended by a long slope to 
 Bulwudun, which is situated in the plain. It is a 
 place of considerable size, but consists chiefly of 
 miserable cottages. There are many remains of 
 antiquity lying about the streets, and around the 
 town, but they appeared to be chiefly of the time 
 of the Constantinopolitan empire. At Bulwudun 
 we had to make choice of two roads to the coast ; 
 one leading to Satalia, the other, by Konia and 
 Karaman, to Kelenderi. We prefer the latter on 
 account of the uncertainty of the long passage by 
 sea from Satalia to Cyprus at this season of the 
 year ; and we are informed that all the Grand Vi- 
 zier's Tatars now take the Konia road. 
 
 Jan. 29. — From Bulwudun to Ak-shehr, eleven 
 hours. For the first two hours the road traversed 
 the plain which lies between Bulwudun and the foot 
 of Sultan-dagh ; towards the latter a long cause- 
 way traverses a marshy tract, through the middle of 
 which runs a considerable stream. This river comes 
 from the plains and open country, which extend on 
 our right as far as Afiom Karahissar, and joins the 
 lake which occupies the central and lowest part of 
 the plain lying between the parallel ranges of Sul- 
 tan-dagh and Emir-dagh. Our road continues in 
 
38 
 
 Ch. 1. 
 
 a S. E. direction along the foot of Sultan-dagh ; it 
 is perfectly level, and, owing to the dry weather, in 
 excellent condition. On our left were the lake and 
 plains already mentioned. The ground was every 
 where covered with frost, and the hills on either 
 side of the valley with snow ; but these appearances 
 of winter vanished as the day advanced, and from 
 noon till three p. m. the sun was warmer than we 
 found agreeable ; our faces being exposed to it by 
 that most inconvenient head-dress, the Tatar Kal- 
 pak. Our Surigis (postillions) wore a singular kind 
 of cloak of white camels' hair felt, half an inch thick, 
 and so stiff that the cloak stands without support 
 when set upright upon the ground. There are nei- 
 ther sleeves nor hood; but only holes to pass the 
 hands through, and projections like wings upon 
 the shoulders for the purpose of turning off the 
 rain. It is of the manufacture of the country. At 
 the end of six hours we passed through Saakle or 
 Isaklu, a large village surrounded with gardens and 
 orchards, in the midst of a small region well wa- 
 tered by streams from Sultan-dagh, and better cul- 
 tivated than any place we have seen since we left 
 the vicinity of Isnik and Lefke. Yet the Aga of 
 Isaklu is said to be in a state of rebellion ; and this 
 is not the first instance we have seen of places in 
 such a state being more flourishing than others ; 
 whence we cannot but suspect that there is a con- 
 nexion in this empire between the prosperity of a 
 
Ch. 1. 39 
 
 district and the ability of its chieftain to resist the 
 orders of the Porte. This is nothing more than 
 the natural consequence of their well-known policy 
 of making frequent changes of provincial governors, 
 who, purchasing their governments at a high price, 
 are obliged to practise every kind of extortion to 
 reimburse themselves, and secure some profit at the 
 expiration of their command. It seems that the 
 Aga of Isaklu, having a greater share of prudence 
 and talents than usually falls to the lot of a Turk 
 in office, has so strengthened himself that the Porte 
 does not think his reduction worth the exertion 
 that would be required to effect it, and is, there- 
 fore, contented with the moderate revenue which 
 we are told he regularly remits to Constantinople. 
 In the mean time he has become so personally in- 
 terested in the prosperity of the place, that he finds 
 it more to his advantage to govern it well than to 
 enrich himself rapidly by the oppressive system of 
 the other provincial governors. The territory of 
 Isaklu contains several dependent villages to which 
 fertility is ensured by the streams descending from 
 Sultan-dagh. We here observe a greater quantity 
 and variety of fruit-trees than in any place in Asia 
 Minor we have yet seen. Their species are the 
 same as those which grow in the middle latitudes 
 of Europe, as apples, pears, walnuts, quinces, 
 peaches, grapes ; no figs, olives, or mulberries *, 
 * Strabo, however, informs us that anciently these plains 
 
 
40 
 
 Ch. 1 . 
 
 The climate, therefore, though now so mild, and 
 exposed undoubtedly to excessive heat in summer, 
 is not warmer upon the whole than the interior of 
 Greece and Italy. 
 
 We follow the level grounds at the foot of Sultan- 
 dagh until we come in sight of Ak-shehr (white 
 city), a large town, situated, like Isaklu, on the foot 
 of the mountains, and furnished with the same na- 
 tural advantages of a fertile soil, and a plentiful 
 supply of water. It is surrounded with many plea- 
 sant gardens, but in other respects exhibits the 
 usual Turkish characteristics of extensive burying- 
 grounds, narrow dirty streets, and ruined mosques 
 and houses. At a small distance from the western 
 entrance of the town we pass the sepulchre of Nu- 
 reddin Hoja, a Turkish saint, whose tomb is the 
 object of a Mussulman pilgrimage. It is a stone 
 monument of the usual form, surrounded by an 
 open colonnade supporting a roof; the columns 
 have been taken from some ancient Greek building. 
 The burying-ground is full of remains of Greek ar- 
 chitecture converted into Turkish tomb-stones, and 
 furnishes ample proof of Ak-shehr having been 
 the position of a Greek city of considerable impor- 
 tance. The onlv apartment our Konakji could 
 procure for us at Ak-shehr was a ruinous chamber 
 in the Menzil-hane (post-house) ; and the Aga 
 
 bore olives : he describes the plain of Synnada as an tXaiofJtw 
 
Ch. 1. 
 
 41 
 
 sending insolent messages in return to our remon- 
 strances, we resolve, though at the end of a long 
 day's journey, upon setting out immediately for the 
 next stage. While the horses are preparing, we 
 eat our kebab in the burying-ground, and take 
 shelter from the cold of the evening in the tent 
 of some camel-drivers, who were enjoying their 
 pipes and coffee over a fire. On our arrival, we had 
 observed the people fortifying their town, by erect- 
 ing one of the simplest gates that was ever con- 
 structed for defence. It consisted of four uprights 
 of fir, supporting a platform covered with reeds, 
 in front of which was a breastwork of mud-bricks 
 with a row of loop-holes. These gates and a 
 low mud- wall are the usual fortifications of the 
 smaller Asiatic towns. In one place we saw the 
 gates standing alone without any wall to connect 
 them. 
 
 The lake of Ak-shehr is not close to the town as 
 D'Anville has marked it on his map ; but at a di- 
 stance of six or eight miles : it communicates by a 
 stream with that of Bulwudiin, and after a season 
 of rain, when these lakes are very much increased 
 in size, they form a continued piece of water, thirty 
 or forty miles in length. It is probable that D'An- 
 ville was equally mistaken in placing Antioch of 
 Pisidia at Ak-shehr : for if Sultan-dagh is the Phry- 
 gia Paroreia of Strabo, as there is reason to believe, 
 Antioch should, according to the same authority, 
 
42 
 
 Ch. 1 
 
 be on the south side of that ridge ; whereas Ak- 
 shehr is on the north. 
 
 At six in the evening we set out from Ak shehr, 
 and at one in the morning of January 30 arrived 
 at Arkut-klian. Our pace was much slower than 
 by day. The road lay over the same open level 
 country as before, and towards the latter part of 
 the route, over some undulations of ground, which 
 separate the waters running into the lake of Ak- 
 shehr from those which flow into the lake of Ugun. 
 The weather was frosty and clear, but very dark 
 after eleven o'clock, when the moon set. Several 
 of our party then became so oppressed by sleep as 
 to find it difficult to save themselves from falling 
 from the horses. After two or three hours' repose 
 at Arkut-khan, we pursued our route for three hours 
 to Ilgun, a large but wretched village, containing 
 some scattered fragments of antiquity, where we 
 procured some eggs and kaimak (boiled cream) for 
 breakfast, and then continued our route to Ladik. 
 From near Ak-shehr, the loftier summits of the 
 range of Sultan-dagh begin to recede from our 
 direction towards the south ; and our route has 
 continued through the same wide uncultivated 
 champaign, intersected by a few ridges, and by tor- 
 rents running from the Sultan-dagh to the lakes in 
 the plain. At two hours \is a more considerable 
 stream, crossed by a bridge, and discharging itself 
 into the lake of Ilgun. Six -hours beyond Ugiin 
 
Ch. 1. 
 
 43 
 
 we pass through the large village of Kadiin-kiui, 
 or Kanun-hana, said to consist of 1000 houses; 
 and three hours further we come to Yorgan-Ladik, 
 or Ladik-el-Tchaus, another large place, famous 
 throughout Asia Minor for its manufacture of car- 
 pets; and advantageously situated in a well- watered 
 district, among some low hills to the northward of 
 which lies a very extensive plain. 
 
 The road through the open country which we have 
 passed has been wide, well beaten, fit for any car- 
 riage, and, owing to the late dry weather, in an ex- 
 cellent state. We continue to enjoy a sky without 
 a cloud : there is generally a slight breeze from the 
 east in the day: in the afternoon the sun is hot; 
 and at night the sky is perfectly calm and clear, 
 with a sharp frost, which in the shaded places ge- 
 nerally continues to a late hour in the afternoon. 
 
 The plains between Arkut-Khan and Ladik are 
 traversed by several low stony ridges, and by streams 
 running towards the lake of Ilgiin. The country is 
 bare and open ; not a tree or inclosure was to be 
 seen, nor any appearance of cultivation, except in 
 small patches around a few widely-scattered vil- 
 lages. The country to our right forms the district 
 of Dogan-hissar, a town belonging to the Sanjak 
 of Ak-shehr. To the left is seen the continuation 
 of the series of long narrow lakes which begin near 
 Bulwudun : they receive the torrents running from 
 the surrounding mountains, and are greatly en- 
 
44 Cb. !. 
 
 larged in winter, but in summer are entirely dried 
 up. 
 
 Jan. 31. — From Ladik to Konia nine hours; 
 the road excellent, and weather very fine ; the sun 
 even scorching, and much too glaring for our ex- 
 posed eyes. At Ladik we saw more numerous 
 fragments of ancient architecture and sculpture 
 than at any other place upon our route. Inscribed 
 marbles, altars, columns, capitals,. frizes ; cornices, 
 were dispersed throughout the streets and among 
 the houses and burying-grounds ; the remains of 
 Laodiceia zaroiKi/cav^hri, anciently the most consi- 
 derable city in this part of the country. At less 
 than an hour's distance from the town, on the way 
 to Konia, we met with a still greater number of re- 
 mains of the same kind, and copied one or two se- 
 pulchral inscriptions of the date of the Roman em- 
 pire. The following fragment appears to be part 
 of an imprecation against any person who should 
 violate the tomb upon which it is inscribed. 
 
 TON BlUMON AAIKHC6I 
 
 H KAI nePI TON TA* 
 
 ON TI OP*ANA T6KNA AIIIOI 
 
 TON XHPON BION OIKON 6 
 PIIMON 
 
 Soon after we had quitted this spot, we entered 
 upon a ridge branching eastward from the great 
 mountains on our right, and forming the northern 
 boundary of the plain of Konia. On the descent 
 
Ch. 1. 
 
 45 
 
 from this ridge we came in sight of the vast plain 
 around that city, and of the lake which occupies 
 the middle of it, and we saw the city with its 
 mosques and ancient walls, still at the distance of 
 12 or 14 miles from us. To the north-east nothing 
 appeared to interrupt the vast expanse but two very 
 lofty summits covered with snow, at a great distance. 
 They can be no other than the summits of Mount 
 Argaeus above Kesaria, and are, consequently, 
 near 150 miles distant from us, in a direct line. 
 To the south-east the same plains extend as far as 
 the mountains of Karaman, which to the south- 
 west of the plains are connected with the moun- 
 tains of Khatun-serai, on the other side of which 
 lies Bey-shehr and the country of the ancient Isau- 
 rians ; and these bending westward in the neigh- 
 bourhood of Konia form a continuous range with 
 the ridge of Sultan-dagh, of which we have been 
 following the direction ever since we left Bulwudun. 
 At the south-east extremity of the plains beyond 
 Konia we are much struck with the appearance of 
 a remarkable insulated mountain, called Karadaeh 
 (black mountain), rising to a great height, covered 
 at the top with snow, and appearing like a lofty 
 island in the midst of the sea. It is about sixty 
 miles distant, and beyond it are seen some of the 
 summits of the Karaman range, which cannot be 
 less than ninety miles from us; yet it is surprising 
 with what distinctness the form of the ground and 
 
4(3 
 
 Ch. 1. 
 
 of the woods is seen in this clear atmosphere. As 
 far as I have observed, the air is much more trans- 
 parent in a fine winter's day in this climate tlian it 
 is in summer, when, notwithstanding the breeze of 
 wind which blows, there is generally a haze in the 
 horizon, caused probably by the constant stream of 
 vapour which rises from the earth. The situation 
 of the town of Karaman is pointed out to us exactly 
 in the line of our route, a little to the right of 
 Mount Karadagh. After descending into the plain 
 we move rapidly over a road made for wheel-car- 
 riages; the first we have met with since we left the 
 neighbourhood of Skutari. 
 
 At Kcmia we are comfortably accommodated in 
 the house of a Christian belonging to the Greek 
 church, but who is ignorant of the language, which 
 is not even used in the church-service : they have 
 the four Gospels and the Prayers printed in Turk- 
 ish. At the head of the Greek community is a 
 Metropolitan bishop, who has several dependent 
 churches in the adjacent towns. As it is now the 
 moon Ramazan, when the Turks neither take nou- 
 rishment nor receive visits till after sunset, we are 
 obliged to defer our visit to the Governor of Konia 
 till the evening. He is a Pasha of three tails, but 
 inferior in rank to the Governor of Kutaya, who 
 tias the htle of Anadol-Beglerbeg, or Anadol-Va- 
 lesi, and who has the chief command of all the 
 Anatolian troops when they join the Imperial camp. 
 
Ch. I. 
 
 47 
 
 Our visit, as usual among the Turks, was first to 
 the Kiaya, or Deputy, and afterwards to the Pasha. 
 The entrance into the court of the Serai was strik- 
 ing ; portable fires of pine- wood placed in a grating 
 fixed upon a pole, and stuck into the ground, were 
 burning in every part of the court-yard; a long 
 line of horses stood ready saddled ; attendants in 
 their gala-clothes were seen moving about in all 
 directions, and trains of servants, with covered 
 dishes in their hands, showed that the night of a 
 Turkish fast is a feast. The building had little in 
 unison with these appearances of gaiety and magni- 
 ficence, being a low shabby wooden edifice, with 
 ruinous galleries and half-broken window frames ; 
 but it stands upon the site of the palace of the an- 
 cient sultans of Iconium, and contains some few 
 remains of massy and elegant Arabic architecture, 
 of an early date. The inside of the building seemed 
 not much better than the exterior, with the excep- 
 tion of the Pasha's audience-chamber, which was 
 splendidly furnished with carpets and sofas, and 
 filled with a great number of attendants in costly 
 dresses. The Pasha, as well as his deputy in the 
 previous visit, received us with haughtiness and 
 formality, though with civility. The Pasha pro- 
 mised to send forward to Karaman for horses to be 
 ready to carry us to the coast, and to give us a tra- 
 velling order for konaks upon the road. After 
 passing through the usual ceremony of coffee, 
 
48 
 
 Ch. 1. 
 
 sweetmeats, sherbet, and perfumes, which in a 
 Turkish visit of ceremony are well known to follow 
 in the order here mentioned, we return to our 
 lodging. Nothing can exceed the greediness of the 
 Pasha's attendants for Bakshish. Some accompany 
 us home with mashallahs (the torches above men- 
 tioned), and others with silver wands. Soon after 
 our return to our lodgings we are visited by a set 
 of the Pasha's musicians, who seem very weli to 
 understand that after our fatigues we shall be glad 
 to purchase their absence at a handsome price ; 
 but no sooner are they gone than another set make 
 their appearance; the Kahweji, the Tutunji, and 
 a long train of Tchokadars ; and these being suc- 
 ceeded by people of the town, who come simply to 
 gratify their curiosity, it is not till a late hour that 
 we are at liberty to retire to rest. 
 
 The circumference of the walls of Konia is be- 
 tween two and three miles, beyond which are sub- 
 urbs not much less populous than the town itself. 
 The walls strong and lofty, and flanked with square 
 towers, which at the gates are built close together, 
 are of the time of the Seljukian kings, who seem 
 to have taken considerable pains to exhibit the 
 Greek inscriptions, and the remains of architecture 
 and sculpture belonging to the ancient Iconium, 
 which they made use of in building their walls. 
 We perceived a great number of Greek altars, in- 
 scribed stones, columns, and other fragments in- 
 
Ch. 1. 
 
 49 
 
 serted into the fabric, which is still in tolerable pre* 
 servation throughout the whole extent. None of 
 the Greek remains that I saw seemed to be of a 
 very remote period, even of the Roman Empire. 
 We observed in several places Greek crosses, and 
 figures of lions, of a rude sculpture ; and on all the 
 conspicuous parts of the walls and towers, Arabic 
 inscriptions, apparently of a very early date. The 
 town, suburbs, and gardens around are plentifully 
 supplied with water from streams, which flow from 
 some hills to the westward, and which to the north- 
 east join a lake varying in size according to the 
 season of the year. We are informed that in the 
 winter and after the melting of the snows upon the 
 surrounding mountains, the lake is swollen with 
 immense inundations, which spread over the great 
 plains to the eastward for near fifty miles. At 
 present there is not the least appearance of any 
 such inundation, the usual autumnal rains having 
 failed, and the whole country labouring under a 
 severe drought. The gardens of Konia abound 
 with the same variety of fruit-trees which we re- 
 marked in those of Isaklii and Ak-shehr ; and the 
 country around supplies grain and flax in great 
 abundance. In the town carpets are manufactured, 
 and they tan and dye blue and yellow leather. 
 Cotton, wool, hides, and a few of the other raw 
 materials which enrich the superior industry and 
 skill of the manufacturers of Europe, are sent to 
 
 E 
 
50 
 
 Ch. I. 
 
 Smyrna by the caravans. The low situation of 
 the town and the vicinity of the lake seem not to 
 promise much for the salubrity of Konia; but we 
 heard no complaint on this head ; and as it has in 
 all ages been well inhabited, these apparent disad- 
 vantages are probably corrected by the dryness of 
 the soil, and the free action of the winds over the 
 surrounding levels. The most remarkable build- 
 ing in Konia is the tomb of a saint, highly revered 
 throughout Turkey, called Hazret Mevlana, the 
 founder of the Mevlevi Dervishes. His sepulchre, 
 which is the object of a Mussulman pilgrimage, is 
 surmounted by a dome, standing upon a cylindrical 
 tower of a bright green colour. The city, like all 
 those renowned for superior sanctity, abounds with 
 Dervishes, who meet the passenger at every turn- 
 ing of the streets, and demand paras with the 
 greatest clamour and insolence. Some of them 
 pretend to be idiots, and are hence considered as 
 entitled to peculiar respect, or at least indulgence. 
 The bazars and houses have little to recommend 
 them to notice. 
 
CHAPTER IL 
 
 ILLUSTRATION OF THE ANCIENT GEOGRAPHY OF 
 THE CENTRAL PART OF ASIA MINOR. 
 
 Geographical Structure of the Country — Ancient Sites near the 
 Road from Eski-Shehr to Kdnia — Polybolum — Synnada — 
 Docimia. — Metropolis — Julia — Philomelium — Tyriaiurn — 
 Iconium — Ancient Sites between Iconium and Mazaca or Ccc- 
 sareia — Tyana — Castabala — Cybistra — Cilician Taurus — ■ 
 Archalla — Country called, Axylus — Lycaonian Downs — Gar- 
 sabora — Coropassus — Sabatra — Lakes Coralis, Trogitis, and 
 Tatta — Germa — Orcistus — Places in the ancient Itineraries on 
 theRoadfromAncyra to thcPylce Cilicice, Archelais, 8$c. — Roads 
 in the Peutinger Table across theTaurus to the southern Coast — 
 Juliopolis or Gordium — Pessinus — Amorium — Santabaris — 
 Ptcmanene — Orcaoryci — Pitnisus — Caballum — Tolistochora 
 — Sub-divisions of Galatia. 
 
 Before we pursue our route beyond the capital 
 of the Greek province Lycaonia and of the Turkish 
 kingdom Karaman, it may be right to offer a few 
 remarks upon the general geography of this part 
 of the peninsula, and upon the situation of some 
 of the opulent and celebrated cities which anciently 
 adorned it. 
 
 From the sources of the Sangarius and Halys on 
 the north and east, to the great summits of Mount 
 Taurus on the south-west and south, there is an 
 extent of country nearly 250 miles long and 150 
 broad, in which the waters have no communication 
 with the sea. Its southern part consists of fertile 
 
 e 2 
 
52 
 
 Ch. 2. 
 
 valleys or of extensive plains intersected by a few 
 ranges of hills, and it is bounded to the south- 
 ward by the great ridges of Mount Taurus, from 
 whence are poured forth numerous streams, which, 
 after fertilizing the valleys, collect their super- 
 abundant waters in a chain of lakes, extending 
 from the neighbourhood of Synnada in Phrygia 
 through the whole of Lycaonia to the extremity 
 of the Tyanitis in Cappadocia. In the rainy sea- 
 son these lakes overflow the lower part of the 
 plains, and would often form one entire inun- 
 dation 200 miles in length, were it not for some 
 ridges which traverse the plains and separate them 
 into several basins. By the structure of the hills, 
 and the consequent course of the waters, these ba- 
 sins form themselves into three principal recipients, 
 having no communication with one another, unless 
 it be in very extraordinary seasons. These are, 1 . 
 The recipient of Karahissdr and Ak-shehr. 2. That 
 of Ilgiin and Ladik, which receives I believe the 
 superfluous water of the lake of Karajeli as well as 
 that from the slopes of the neighbouring moun- 
 tains. 3. The recipient of Konia, which collects 
 the overflowings of the lakes of Sidyshehr and Bey- 
 shehr. 4. The basin lying between the Cilician 
 Taurus to the south-east and the Cappadocian 
 mountains in the opposite direction, which moun- 
 tains are now called the Hassan Daghi, and give 
 rise to the western branch of the Halys. Were the 
 
Ch. 2. 
 
 53 
 
 bountiful intentions of Providence seconded by a 
 rational government, tbe inundations would but 
 prepare the plains for an abundant harvest : at pre- 
 sent they water only an immense extent of pasture 
 land*, while the lakes supply the surrounding in- 
 habitants with fish, and with reeds for the con- 
 struction of their miserable cottages. 
 
 Concerning two of the ancient sites traversed by 
 the modern road leading from Eski-Shehr to K6- 
 nia, there can be little doubt. The modern name 
 of Ladik is decisive of its being upon the site of 
 Laodiceia Combusta, and the sound of HoXv&orov as 
 pronounced by the modern Greeks, with the accent 
 on the last syllable, so nearly resembles that of Bul- 
 wudun, that the latter name is probably a Turkish 
 corruption of the former. The position of Bui wudiin, 
 moreover, agrees perfectly with that ascribed to Po- 
 lybotum in the narrative of Anna Comnenaf. Poly- 
 botum, however, is mentioned only in the history of 
 the Lower Empire^: and although from the 6th to 
 
 * Of pasture there appears from Cicero to have been a great 
 abundance in Asia Minor, even when the country was still fa- 
 mous for the exuberance of its agricultural productions. Asia 
 tarn opima est et fertilis ut et ubertate agrorum et diversitate 
 fructuum et magnitudine pastionis, et multitudine earum re- 
 rum qua; exportantur, facile omnibus tcrris antecellat. (Cicero 
 pro lege Manil.) Hut probably even as early as the time of 
 Cicero, Asia had suffered from the wars and military despotism 
 of the Romans. f Lib. 1 1. p. 323. Lib. 15. p. 471. 
 
 X It was a bishoprick under the metropolitan of Synnada, in 
 whose province were also Nacoleia and Dorykeum. 
 
54 
 
 Ch. 2. 
 
 the 12th century it appears to have been with Phi- 
 lomelium and Ieonium the chief city of these vast 
 plains*, its name is not found in the earlier periods 
 of history, when Synnada, Philomelium, and Ieo- 
 nium seem to have been the principal places f. The 
 position of Polybotum, therefore, affords us no assist- 
 ance in tracing the other ancient places on the main 
 route between Doryloeum and Laodiceia. 
 
 Of these places the most important to determine 
 is Synnada, which indeed is in some measure the 
 key to the ancient geography of the central parts of 
 AsiaMinor. It appears from the Table that Synnada 
 was on the road from Dorylaeum to Philomelium 
 and Laodiceia Combusta, — from Livy, that it was in 
 the way from the country lying eastward of Apameia 
 Cibotus towards the frontiers of Galatia, — and 
 from Cicero ^, that it was in the way or nearly so 
 from Apameia to Philomelium and Ieonium. The 
 crossing of these lines will fall not far from the 
 modern Bulwudiin, as appears from the route of 
 Pococke in his way from the upper valley of the 
 Meander to Ancyra. It is highly probable, there- 
 fore, that the extensive quarries which we saw on 
 the road from Khosrukhan to Bulwudiin are those 
 of Docimia, a small town in the plain of Synnada, 
 
 * Procop. Hist. Ar. c. 18. Anna Com. ib. A bishop of Po- 
 lybotum sat in the second Niccne Council, A. D. 787. 
 t Cicero ad Att. I. 5. ep. 20. ad Divers. 1. 3. cp. 8. 
 | Cic. ib, et ad Div. 1. 15, op. 1. 
 
Ch. 2. 55 
 
 celebrated for the marble extracted from thence in 
 large quantities, and sent even to Rome. This 
 marble was known to the Romans by the name of 
 Synnadic, from the more important town of Syn- 
 nada, which was only sixty stades distant from Do- 
 cimia *. 
 
 It is difficult to ascertain the name of the an- 
 cient city which occupied the remarkable position of 
 Karahissar, which is distinguished from some other 
 towns of the same name by the epithet of Afiom, in 
 reference to its abundant produce of opium. D'An- 
 ville supposed it to be the site of Apameia; but the 
 waters of Karahiss&r, instead of running into the 
 Maeander, of which the principal sources were at 
 Apameia, flow to the lake of Bulwudun. Pococke 
 asserts that he found an inscription at Karahissar, 
 which proves it to be the site of Prymnesia ; but 
 upon referring to his Inscriptiones Antiques, it ap- 
 pears that the inscription to which he alludes is 
 nothing more than the memorial of a man whose 
 name ends in MENNEAS, and who with his wife 
 had constructed a tomb for themselves and their 
 only daughter. A few miles southward of Kara- 
 hissar are the fountains of a branch of the Msean- 
 
 * 2.6vva,8a 8' IW»v ou jw-gyaXij itoXig' irpoKeirou 8' avrr^ s\ato- 
 <pvrov irsSiov otrov kfcrjxovra. <rra.8iu;v sirsxstva 8' i<xr) AvKipiot. xcw- 
 ju.ij xou to Xcuro^iov rov 'ZvvvaSixov \lQov ovrw ph yap 'PuipaToi 
 KX\ov<riv o\ 8' hiti'XjMpioi AoKipirw kou Aoxi/xaTov, &c. Strabo, 
 p. 577. 
 
56 
 
 Ch. 2. 
 
 der ; it is probably the Obrimas, whose sources ac- 
 cording to Livy were at Aporis *. As the Consul 
 Manlius entered the plain of Metropolis from Apo- 
 ris, and marched onward to Synnada and Beudos 
 vetus in his way towards Galatia, there is some rea- 
 son to think that Karahissar stands on the site of 
 Metropolis. 
 
 If we suppose the Beudos vetus of the Latin hi- 
 storian to have been at Beiad, from the similarity 
 of name and the proximity of Beiad to the site of 
 Synnada (for Beudos, according to Livy, was only 
 five Roman miles from Synnada), we shall find that 
 the distance from Karahissar to Beiad, which is 
 twenty g. m. direct, agrees very exactly with the 
 march of two days and five miles by the Consul 
 Manlius, according to the mean rate of armies re- 
 duced a little in consequence of the plunder which, 
 as the historian tells us, impeded the movement of 
 
 * Apamiam .... ante adpellatam Celaenas, dein Ciboton. 
 Sita est in radice montis Signiae, circumfusa Marsya, Obrima 
 Orga fluminibus, in Maeandrum cadentibus. Plin. Hist. Nat. 
 1.5. c. 29. 
 
 Inde in agrum Sagalassenum Progressus inde ad 
 
 Obrimae fontes ad vicum, quern Aporidis Comen vocant, posuit 
 
 castra profectus eo die in Metropolitanum campum. 
 
 postero die Dinias Phrygiae processit. Inde Synnada venit, 
 metu omnibus circa oppidis desertis, quorum jam praeda grave 
 agmen vix quinque millium die totoitinereperfecto, ad Beudos 
 quod vetus appellant pervenit. Ad Anabura inde, &c. Liv. Hist. 
 I. 38. c. 15. 
 
 \ 
 
Ch. 2. 
 
 57 
 
 the Romans. It will be found, moreover, that the 
 situation of Metropolis at Karahissar, accords ex- 
 tremely well with the description given by Artemi- 
 dorus of the road through Asia from Ephesus to 
 Mazaca or Cassareia in Cappadocia, which, after 
 ascending the valley of the Maeander to its sources 
 at Apameia, proceeded by Metropolis tind through 
 Phrygia Paroreius to the termination of that di- 
 strict atTyriaium; and thence through Lycaonia to 
 Garsabora and Mazaca*: for although the distances 
 on that road in our copies of Strabo from Apameia 
 as far as Laodiceia Combusta will not bear exami- 
 nation, — and although Karahissar does not fall in 
 the direct line from Ephesus to Mazaca, — neither of 
 these objections can be considered of much weight : 
 the inaccuracy of numbers in the ancient MSS. is 
 
 * 'Eits) 8s koivtj ri{ oSq; rsrpnrrxt draft rug hiti rdg dvctroXdg 
 oSonropovo-iv s% 'Ecpso-ov xa) rxurr t v sitsicriv. ' Ett) ulv rd Kdpovpa 
 rrjg Kapiug opiov itpbg rrjv Qpvyiav Sid M.a.yvr^la.g xaiTgdXKscvv, 
 Hu<rrj$, 'Avrioysiag, oSbg 740 (rnzSicuv. 'EvtsvQsv Ss r t 'bpvyia, Std 
 AocoStxsh.g xx) 'Aitx^slxg xx) MyjtpoiroXewg xx) XsXiSovlusv sir) 
 [h\v ouv Try dpfflv rrjg Ua^uipsiou roug 7 Xu.ovg (rrdStot itsp\ 920 
 sx ruJv Kapovpcuv sir) Ss rb itpbg rr, Avxxovlairspxg rr t g Uxpcupsl- 
 oo rb Tvpiaiov Sid QiXG^yXloi) ptxpuj itXsioig ruiv 500. EiS' rj 
 Avxxovlx \^k"Xjpi Kopoirxa-trov Sid AaoStxslxg rrjg K.aTax£xav[/.ivy$ 
 840' sx 8s Ko^oirxa-a-our^g Avxxovlxg elf Txprdoupx, iroXlyviov rr t g 
 YLa-mtxSoxixg, sir) rdiv opwv aurijg iSpv(j.Evcjv, 120* svrsvQsv 8' s\g 
 Mx^axx, rrjv {j^rponoXw ruiv KxitirxSoxcuv Sid "LodvSo'j xx) 
 1.x8xxopuiv 080* svTzvQzv 8' ht) rbv Eu^pxryv [)<tyjpi Toy,i<rwv, 
 yjjjpiov rrjg 'Eof.Yjvrjs 8id'llp<p£v it<j'k\yvr i g 1440. Artemidovus. 
 ap. Strab. \\ 603. 
 
58 
 
 Ch. 2. 
 
 too common an occurrence to overthrow other tes- 
 timony; and the divergence of the ancient road to 
 the northward at Karahissar, was evidently occa- 
 sioned by the projection of that part of Mount 
 Taurus which is now called the Sultan-dagh, and 
 which causes so many of the modern routes to pass 
 through Karahissar. 
 
 Though the proportionate distances do not ex- 
 actly agree with the numbers in the Table, it may 
 be inferred from the remains of antiquity at Ak- 
 shehr and Ilgiin, that these were the Jullse and 
 Philomelium named in that itinerary. Strabo de- 
 scribes Philomelium as being in the midst of a 
 plain on the north side of the hills of Paroreia ; 
 his description* of which district agrees exactly 
 with the Sultan-dagh and the plain on its northern 
 side. Its position no less accords with the testi- 
 mony of Artemidorus cited in the preceding page, 
 according to whom the road from Apameia to Ma- 
 zaca led through the Paroreia. And the territory 
 of Philomelium appears from the narrative of Anna 
 Comnenaf to have been at no great distance from 
 
 * 'H jj.h ouv Uapugsia, opsivyv viva ej(zi pot-yjv octto ir t ; cLvaroXrjS 
 zy.TEivofjJvyv sir) Svtiv ravry 5' kxarspwQev {nroirtTtruoxk tt ntt-Siov 
 
 fi,£ya Kd.i TfcAsi^ TTAtJCJOV OCVf'ijSf lipQS iXpXT'J 4 / U*&1) ^jAOjEMjAjOV,, c>i 
 
 SoLripov Jg pspoi's 'Avnoysia,^ itpog Ui-riSla xaXovpavrj, y\ psv Iv 
 m'ztiiuj •KSi[jJvr ) irx-ra, y £' kiti Ao'^ou, tyovtra diro r/.ia.v 'Ptvpaiujv. 
 Strabo, p. 577. It is evident from this passage how greatly 
 the discovery of Antioch of Pisidia would assist the comparative 
 raphy of all the adjacent country. i Lib. !~> p. 473. 
 
Ch. 2. 
 
 51) 
 
 that of Icoiiium ; for as soon as the Emperor Alexius 
 had taken Philomelium from the Turks, his troops 
 spread themselves over the country round Iconium. 
 The lake of the Forty Martyrs mentioned in this 
 narrative corresponds also with that of Ilgiin, so 
 that it will probably be found that Ilgiin stands 
 upon the site of Philomelium. 
 
 The Julias of the Table seems to be a false 
 writing for Julia, a name which became com- 
 mon in every part of the Roman world under the 
 Caesars ; and it is probably the same place as the 
 Juliopolis placed by Ptolemy * in the part of the 
 country where stood Synnada, and Philomelium. 
 But there can be little doubt that so fine a situation 
 as that of Ak-shehr was occupied, before the time 
 of the Caesars, by some important place, which 
 on its being repaired or re-established may have as- 
 sumed the new name of Julia or Juliopolis. 
 
 Of the cities mentioned by Xenophon on the 
 route of Cyrus through Phrygia into Lycaonia, 
 Tyriaium and Iconium are the only two which 
 occur in later authors. Tyriaium, which is named 
 by Hierocles as well as by Strabo (from Artemido- 
 rus), is shown by the latter to have been between 
 Philomelium and Iconium. It must consequently 
 have been at no great distance from Laodiceia, 
 although this situation is quite incompatible with 
 
 * lib. 5. c. 2. 
 
60 
 
 Cli. 2. 
 
 the distance which Xenophon has stated between 
 Tyriaiuin and Iconium*. 
 
 * The following was the route of Cyrus, according to Xeno- 
 phon : — 
 
 Stathmi. Parafang*. 
 
 From Celsense, afterwards Apameia Cibotus, 
 
 to Peltae, - 
 Ceramorum Agora, at the end of Mysia, - 
 Caystri Campus (a city), - 
 
 Thymbrium, where was the fountain of Midas, 
 Tyriaium, - 
 
 Iconium, - - 
 
 Through Lycaonia, - 
 
 Through Cappadocia to Dana (Tyana), 
 
 Total 
 
 I 2 or 10 
 
 2—12 
 3 — 30 
 2—10 
 
 2 — 10 
 
 3 — 20 
 5 — 30 
 
 4 — 25 
 
 23 
 
 92 
 
 In Major Rennell's work on the Retreat of the Ten Thousand, 
 the reader will see the extreme difficulty of fixing the places on 
 this route. Indeed there seems no mode of reconciling Xeno- 
 phon with other geographical authorities than by supposing 
 great errors in his numbers ; for it is difficult to believe that 
 his Ka.v<rrpov irsSiov is not the same as that which Strabo 
 (p. G29.) describes as watered by the Caystrus and situated on 
 the south side of Mount Tmolus. In like manner there is the 
 greatest reason to think that Thymbrium and the fountain of 
 Midas were on the branch of the Sangarius called Thymbres 
 in the country which formed the kingdom of Midas, and not in 
 the plains between Ak-shehr and Ilgt'in, where we must place 
 Thymbrium, if we follow the evidence of Xenophon's numbers. 
 Upon the whole, I am inclined to think that this itinerary of 
 Xenophon is so incorrect that very little reliance can be placed 
 on its authority. We have a strong proof of its inaccuracy in the 
 positive assertion of Xenophon, that after he had crossed Mount 
 Taurus, he marched twenty-five parasangs (or about seventy- 
 five miles) in four days through the plain of Tarsus to the city, 
 though Tarsus is only ten miles from the foot of that mountain. 
 Xenophon probably meant four days from the halting-place of 
 
Ch. 2. 
 
 CI 
 
 In following the march of Cyrus onwards from 
 Iconium towards the Cilicia? pyla? of Mount Tau- 
 rus, we find the distances of Xcnophon rather more 
 reconcileable with the reality. It is agreed that 
 Dana, which he places at nine marches or fifty-five 
 parasangs from Iconium, was the same place as 
 Tyaria, otherwise called Eusebeia ad Taurum, and 
 which under Archelaus and the Romans was the 
 chief town of one of the prefectures of Cappadocia*. 
 It was the only place in that province, exceptMazaca, 
 which Strabo thought deserving to be called a city; 
 and under the Byzantine empire it was the capital 
 of the second Cappadocia, and the see of a me- 
 tropolitan bishop until the Turkish conquest. 
 
 There can be little doubt that the site of Tyana 
 is now occupied by Kilisa Hissdr, or the Castle of 
 Kilisa near Bor '|\ This place is acknowledged by 
 
 Cyrus, afterwards called the plain of Cyrus, on the north side 
 of Taurus, but his words express the former meaning without 
 the smallest ambiguity. Again, he places ten parasangs between 
 Tarsus and the river Sarus, and only five between the Sarus 
 and the Pyramus, although the real distances are nearly equal. 
 
 * Strabo, p. 534, 537, et seq. 
 
 f In a rude delineation of the country between Kesaria and 
 Ak-shehr by a bishop of Iconium, published at Vienna in 1812, 
 Bor is written Ttopog, which suggests the origin of the word Bor 
 — namely, that it is a Turkish corruption of the Greek Ttopog, and 
 that Porus was a suburb of Tyana, so called as being situated at 
 the iropos, or passage of the river, which now runs through Nigde 
 and Bor into a lake near Erkle. Kilisa also is undoubted- 
 ly a Greek name (K/Ajcrca, the feminine of Ki\i£), derived 
 from that of the neighbouring Cappadocian prefecture. The 
 
62 Ch. 2. 
 
 the Greek clergy as the site of their episcopal see 
 of Tyana ; it is situated, as Strabo describes Tyana 
 to have been, in a fertile plain not far from the en- 
 trance of the Pyla: Cilicise, or the easiest and most 
 frequented pass leading over Mount Taurus into 
 Cilicia Pedias and Syria, — and midway in the road 
 to that pass from Mazaca *. 
 
 At Kilisa Hissar are found very considerable 
 ruins of an ancient city, among which are those of 
 an aqueduct upon arches, designed to convey water 
 to the town from the hills to the southward, which 
 are connected with the last slopes of Mount Taurus. 
 Aqueducts of this description are indubitable signs 
 of an ancient place which flourished under the Ro- 
 mans, and such we know to have been the condition 
 of Tyana. 
 
 Strabo remarks that Castabala and Cybistrawere 
 not far from Tyana ; that they were nearer than that 
 city to the heights of Taurus ; that they belonged 
 to the Cilician prefecture of Cappadocia, and that 
 Cybistra was situated at a distance of three hundred 
 stades from Mazaca f. We learn also from the 
 Table, that Cybistra was on the road from Tyana 
 
 substitution of local names for provincial, and of provincial 
 for local, was a kind of change common among the lower 
 Greeks. 
 
 * Of course this distance must not be measured horizontally, 
 the road from Mazaca to Tyana being plain, and that from 
 Tyana to the Pylse very mountainous. 
 
 + Strabo, ibid. 
 
Ch. 2. 
 
 63 
 
 to Mazaca, sixty-four Roman miles from the former. 
 These data seem sufficient to fix the site of Cybistra 
 atKarahissar*, where are considerable remains of an 
 ancient city; and they render it probable that the 
 position of Castabala is now occupied by Nigde, 
 where we find similar evidences of an ancient site. 
 
 The situation of Cybistra at Karahissar illus- 
 trates the interesting account which Cicero has left 
 us of his military operations, in defending Cilicia 
 and Cappadocia against a threatened attack of the 
 Parthians f , when he fixed his camp at Cybistra, be- 
 cause it was on the frontier of the two provinces, 
 but nearer to the great plains of Cappadocia lying 
 to the eastward of Mount Taurus. These plains 
 (he remarks) afford an easy access to Cappadocia 
 from Syria, while nothing can be stronger than 
 Cilicia on the side of Syria. In the end, however, 
 the Parthians having advanced towards Antioch, 
 Cicero was obliged to cross Mount Taurus from 
 Cybistra to Tarsus, from whence he proceeded to 
 clear Mount Arnanus of the enemy. 
 
 In order thoroughly to understand the reason of 
 one of the prefectures of Cappadocia being called 
 Cilicia by the Romans, it is to be observed that 
 
 * D'Anville placed Cybistra at Bustere, which he supposed 
 a corruption of the Greek word ; but according to Hadjy Khalfa 
 the name is Kostere not Bustere. 
 
 + See particularly the letter to Marcus Cato. Ep. ad Diver- 
 
 sosj. I j. ep. 4.— and that to Aniens, 1. :> . ep. 20. 
 
04 
 
 Ch. 2. 
 
 more anciently both the sides of Taurus belonged 
 to the Eleuthero-Ciliees, or independent Cilicians ; 
 and that the whole range from the plains of Lycao- 
 nia to the Antitaurus was called the Cilician Tau- 
 rus *. Archelaus the last king of Cappadocia, 
 having added all the country on the northern side 
 of the mountain to his kingdom, together with a 
 large portion of Cilicia Tracheia, Tiberius, who put 
 him to death at Rome, included it all, except the 
 maritime parts, in the Roman province of Cappa- 
 docia ; and he added to the ten prefectures of the 
 late kingdom of Archelaus an eleventh, composed 
 chiefly of his Cilician conquests: and hence called 
 the Cilician prefecture of Cappadocia. Its chief 
 town was Mazaca ; it comprehended Cybistra and 
 Castabala, and extended along the mountains on 
 the south side of the Tyanitis as far as Derbe in- 
 clusively |\ The inconvenience, however, of a di- 
 vision which included in the same district two such 
 distant places as Mazaca and Derbe, seems to have 
 been soon felt: for we find that in the time of Ha- 
 drian, Derbe, Laranda, and a neighbouring region 
 
 * 'H Kairrfafoxla, oi £' ovv oudyXovT'roi [/.a.Xio-td el<riv oi 
 
 d<pop^6y,zvQt Ttphs votov \u\v nZ KjXjxioi Xsyopivuj Tavpuj, irpog £w 
 8h tv 'AffAsvia. Strab. p. 533. 'H Karaovia. . . .Uepixsirai 8' opt) 
 akXx re xxl 6 y A(xavo; Ix tqu irpos vorov fjJpov;, diro<nra(r[ict ov 
 too KiXixiou Tavoov, xa.) o 'AvTiravpos eij rdvavrla. drfsppwyws. 
 Slrab. p. 535. Ptolemy (1. 5.C. 6.) describes Antitaurus as 
 the mountain which extends from Taurus to the Euphrates. 
 
 \ Strabo, p. 534. 
 
Ch. 2. 
 
 65 
 
 of Taurus containing the town of Olbasa, formed 
 a separate district called the Antiochiana*; and 
 that the Cilician prefecture was confined to the 
 parts about Mazaca and Cybistra. 
 
 The name of Erkle so much resembles the 
 Turkish corruption of Heraclia, as instanced in 
 two cities of that name on the coasts of the Euxine 
 and Propontis, that it has often been supposed 
 that the Erkle on the road from Konia to the Ci- 
 lician Pylse occupied the site of a Heraclia ; and 
 Hadji Khalfa even asserts that it was so. No 
 Greek or Latin authorities, however, hint at the 
 existence of a Heraclia in this situation. I have 
 little doubt therefore that Erkle occupies the site 
 of Archalla, named as one of the cities of the Cili- 
 cian prefecture of Cappadocia |\ which, as we have 
 already seen, comprehended Erkle. Erkle, it may be 
 added, is precisely the softened sound which Turks 
 would give to the word "A^aAXa pronounced in 
 the Greek manner with the accent on the first syl- 
 lable. 
 
 To the northward of the region of lakes and 
 plains, through which leads the road from Afiom 
 Karahissar to Konia and Erkle, lies a dry and 
 naked region, anciently called Axylus, which ex- 
 tends as far as the Sangarius and Halys, Po- 
 cocke, who crossed a part of this dreary country, 
 
 * Ptolem. 1 5. c. 6. 
 
 f Ptolem. ibid. 
 
(jG 
 
 Ch. 2. 
 
 describes it exactly in the same manner as Livy *, 
 though apparently without having adverted to that 
 historian. 
 
 The southern part of this open country consists 
 of a range of mountains running parallel to Mount 
 Taurus, and bordering the great valleys of Philome- 
 lium, Iconium and Tyana on the northern side. 
 The western part of this range is a summit called 
 Emir-dagh, which rises to a considerable elevation 
 from the lakes of Bulwudun and Ak-shehr, slopes 
 gradually into the open champaign to the eastward, 
 and to the north is bounded by a very broad naked 
 valley, which is included on the opposite side by 
 the hills in which originate some of the branches 
 of the Sangarius. To the N.W. this valley opens 
 into the great axylous plains of Phrygia, extending 
 to Dorylasum ; and to the S.E. into those of Gala- 
 tia or Lycaonia. The ridges lying to the northward 
 
 * . . . . duci inde exercitus per Axylon quam vocant terrain 
 cceptus ; ab re nomen habet : non ligni modo quidquam, sed ne 
 spinas quidem, aut ullum aliud alimentum fert ignis. Fimo 
 bubulo pro lignis utuntur. Pococke observes, " They are very 
 much distressed in these parts for fuel, and commonly make 
 use of dried cow-dung." His remark on the abundance of fine 
 fish in the Sangarius had not escaped the notice of the Latin 
 historian : Sangarius .... non tarn magnitudine memorabilis 
 quam quod piscium adcolis ingentem vim praebet. Liv. Hist. 
 1.38.C. 18. 
 
 The merit of this accuracy, however, is not due to Livy, but 
 to Polybius, from whom the Latin compiler copied this part of 
 his history. 
 
Ch. 2. 
 
 Q7 
 
 of Konia and Erkle form the district described by 
 Strabo as the cold and naked downs of Lycaonia, 
 which furnished pasture to numerous sheep and 
 wild-asses, and where was no water, except in very 
 deep wells. As the limits of Lycaonia are defined 
 by Strabo, and by Artemidorus, whom he quotes*, 
 to have been between Philornelium and Tyriaium 
 on the west, and Coropassus and Garsabora on the 
 east, — which last place was 960 stades from Ty- 
 riaium, 120 from Coropassus, and 680 from Ma- 
 zaca, — we have the exact extent of the Lycaonian 
 hills intended by the geographer. Branching from 
 the great range of Taurus, near Ilgun (Philome- 
 
 * "Hfs Stj Tdrra icrr) xa) rd ifep) 'Opxa.opvx.ovs xa) Uirvio-bv, 
 xa) rd rtZv Avxaovwv opoirs'Sia, $v%pd xa) ^(Aa xa) ovaypdSora, 
 vSdrcuv re vitdvis ntoWrf oitov Se xa) Evpe~v Swarhv pativrara 
 fypsara Tujv ntdvruov, xaQdirep iv Yodrpoi;, oitov xa) Tfnrpdtrxsfai 
 to vScup' sen §s xiofj,6iTo\is Tapo-aovpwv Tf/.yjo~lo)>' ojxujs oe xai- 
 itsp a>vSpos oucra ij ydipa itpotara extpstpst Savpao-ruis, rpa- 
 X £iX -S 8h epeas' xal rivsg e% avrujv rovrwv ^iyWrovg ntXovrovg 
 sxT7]<ravTo. 'A^vvras 8' vitlp 300 Zo-yz irolpvas h to7( tottois 
 rovrot;. Eicrj oe xa) \ipvai KwpaXi; [x.sv tj fxei^cuv, ij Ss Ikdrruiv 
 Tpoy7ri;. 'EvravQa Si ttov xa) ro'lxovtov e<rrt, TtoXlyvuv ev cvvui- 
 xio-pEvov xa) yujpav tvnyeo-ripav tyov ttJ$ Xs^alffr^ ovaypo- 
 Sorov* rovro 8" tiyj. YloXepwv. nXrjo-id&i 8' rjSi) rovtoig rolg ?6- 
 •aois o Tavpog, ° r~rjv KairitaSoxlav opi^ouv xa) rijv Avxaovlav 
 Ttpb; roug vtrepxsl[x,£vovs KiXtxas fovs Tpaysitutai. Avxaovouv SI 
 xa) KairiraSoxujv opiov eo-n to fxsra^v Kopoirao-crov xui^yjg Av- 
 xaovwv xa) Tapffaovpwv itoXiyylou KairiraSoKwv . "Ecri Se ro 
 [xstafcv Sido'Tytxa Twv tppovplwv rovrwv 120 ttov o-rdSiot. 
 
 Strabo, p. 568. 
 
 For the extract from Artemidorus, relating to the same sub- 
 ject, see page 57. 
 
 F 2 
 
68 
 
 Ch.2. 
 
 lium), and separating the plain of Laodiceia from 
 that of Iconium, they skirted the great valley which 
 lies to the south-eastward of the latter city, as far 
 asErkle; comprehending, to the north of Erkle 
 and Bor, a part of the mountains of Hassan Daghi. 
 It would seem that the depopulation of this coun- 
 try, which rapidly followed the decline of the Ro- 
 man power, and the irruption of the Eastern bar- 
 barians, had left some remains of the vast flocks 
 of Amyntas, mentioned by Strabo, in undisturbed 
 possession of the Lycaonian hills to a very late pe- 
 riod : for Hadji Khalfa, who describes the want of 
 wood and water in these hills, adds, that there was a 
 breed of wild sheep on the mountain of Fudul Baba, 
 above Ismil, and a tomb of the saint from whom 
 the mountain receives its name: and that sacrifices 
 were offered at the tomb by all those who hunted 
 the wild sheep; and who were taught to believe that 
 they should be visited with the displeasure of hea- 
 ven, if they dared to kill more than two of these 
 animals at a time *. 
 
 At the back of the Lycaonian hills was Soatra, 
 or Sabatra, situated in a part of the country so de- 
 solate, that water was sold in the streets. Sabatra 
 
 * Hadji Khalfa lived in the middle of the 17th century. 
 Whether any wild asses or wild sheep are still found on the 
 Lycaonian hills, I have never been able to learn ; but it is cer- 
 tain that the ovaypos, or wild ass, is still hunted on similar hills 
 in many parts of Persia. Naturalists have often confounded 
 this animal with the zebra. 
 
Ch.2. 
 
 GO 
 
 was at a distance of 5.5 Roman miles from Laodi- 
 ceia Combusta, and of 44 from Iconium *, 
 
 There is some difficulty in understanding to which 
 of the lakes at the foot of the Lycaonian hills we are 
 to apply the names Coralis and Trogitis. Stephanus 
 mentions a city of Carallis, or Caralleia, which he 
 ascribes to Isauria. About the same period of time 
 there was a Caralia belonging to the consular go- 
 vernment of Pamphylia, and a bishopric of that 
 province; but which had ceased to be an episcopal 
 see in the ninth century f . If these notices refer to 
 one and the same place, it is probable that the lake 
 of Karajeli is the ancient Coralis, or Caralis ; and 
 that the ruins which are found near its shore are 
 those of the town Caralleia J. In this case, the 
 lake of Ilgiin is probably the Trogitis of Strabo ; 
 for it is difficult to suppose that he meant the lake 
 of Iconium by either of those which he names. 
 As to the difference of size which he remarks be- 
 tween them, our information is so imperfect, and 
 the lakes themselves differ so much in size, accord- 
 ing to the seasons, that no certain inference can 
 be drawn from this distinction of the geographer. 
 
 * Tab. Peutinger. segm. 6. 
 
 t Compare Hierocles and the Acts of the Councils of Ephe- 
 sus, Chalcedon, and Constantinople, with the Notitiae Graeco- 
 rum Episcopatuum. 
 
 + Livy (1. 38. c. 15.) mentions a Caralitis palus ; but it 
 seems to have been situated further westward than Karajeli, 
 and near the Cibyratis. 
 
70 
 
 Ch. 2. 
 
 One of the most remarkable features of this part 
 of Asia Minor is the lake Tatta ; which, according 
 to Strabo, produced salt in such abundance, that 
 any substance immersed in it was very soon en- 
 tirely covered with the crystal ; and that birds were 
 unable to fly, if they had dipped their wings in it. 
 The lake still furnishes all the surrounding coun- 
 try with salt, and its produce is a valuable royal 
 farm in the hands of the Pasha of Kir-shehr. 
 In 1638, Sultan Murad the Fourth made a cause- 
 way across the lake, upon the occasion of his 
 army marching to take Bagdad from the Persians. 
 The road from Ak-serai and Khoja Hissar to Hai- 
 mane and to the north-westward, passes across the 
 lake. 
 
 The numerous places noticed in ancient history in 
 the country round the lake Tatta, and from thence 
 north-westward as far as Dorylaeum, prove that, 
 however naked and disagreeable, it was not unfruit- 
 ful. The natural landmarks, however, are so few, 
 and the mention of the towns by the ancients is so 
 slight, that it will be difficult for travellers to iden- 
 tify any ruins which may exist, unless where they 
 are assisted by the preservation of the ancient ap- 
 pellations, either in inscriptions or in the modern 
 names. At present, Germa and Orcistus are the 
 only two places whose sites are exactly determined ; 
 the former by the modern name of Yerma, the 
 latter by means of a Latin inscription which Po- 
 
Ch. 2. 
 
 71 
 
 cocke copied at the modern village of Alekiam*. 
 Germa was a Roman colony, and probably flou- 
 rished after the decline of the neighbouring city of 
 Pessinus. Of Orcistus we know nothing, except 
 that its bishop subscribed to the Council of Chal- 
 cedon in the year 451, and that it continued to be 
 a see of the ecclesiastical province of the Second 
 or Pessinuntine Galatia until a late period of the 
 Byzantine Empire f. 
 
 The documents which chiefly assist in placing 
 the ancient cities of these parts of Lycaonia, Gala- 
 tia, and Phrygia, are the Antonine and Jerusalem 
 Itineraries, and the Peutinger Table. It is to be 
 regretted that we can seldom place entire confidence 
 in the distances contained in these authorities — 
 flagrant instances of discrepancy and inaccuracy 
 being so frequent as to make one very cautious in 
 trusting implicitly to them, without some corrobo- 
 rating evidence. 
 
 The following is a comparative view of the di- 
 stances in Roman miles, in the three Itineraries, 
 
 * Pococke, in mentioning this inscription in the Narrative 
 of his Travels (vol. 2. part 2. ch. 15.), makes a blunder similar 
 to that which I have noticed relating to another inscription at 
 Afiom Karahissar. He observes, that the inscription at Alekiam 
 contains the word " Amorianorum :" no such word occurs, but 
 " Orcistanorum " is found twice j and the inscription, which is 
 long and curious, and (what is very uncommon with Pococke) 
 tolerably correct, clearly shows that Alekiam is the site of 
 Orcistus. 
 
 t Notitiae Episcopatuum Graecorum. 
 
7'l Ch. 2. 
 
 between the several places on the great Roman road 
 from Niceea, by Juliopolis and Ancyra to Tyana, 
 omitting such of the mere changing- or halting- 
 places * as are found only in one of the itineraries, 
 and correcting the orthography of some of the names 
 from the better authority of Strabo, Ptolemy, &c. 
 
 It. Anion. It. Hierosol. Tab. 
 
 Itinerary of Itinerary of 
 
 Antoninus. Jerusalem. Peutinger Table. 
 
 From Nicaea to Tottaium 44 . . 40 . 40 
 
 Dablee . 28 . . 29 . . 23 
 
 Dadastana 45 . . 22 . . 40 
 
 Juliopolis 26" . . 25 . . 28 
 
 Total from Nicaea to \ 
 
 Juliopolis . . S 143 . . 116 . . 131 
 
 Lagan eos (Agannia in It. 
 
 Hieros.) . . . . 24 . . 24 . . 50 
 
 Minizus 23 . 16 
 
 Ancyra 52 . . 25 + the last 66 from 
 
 stage Lagan ia 
 
 Total from Juliopolis > nn , „_ •„ 
 
 to Ancyra. . S " ' about 7y • ■ 116 
 
 Total from Nicaea to ) . . . ... „._ 
 
 Ancyra . \ 242 • about 191 . . 247 
 
 Ancyra to Corbeus . . 20 ..21 
 
 Rosologiacum .... 12 . . 12 
 
 Aspona 31 . . 31 . . 73 from 
 
 Parnassus t .... 24 .. 35 Ancyra. 
 
 Total from Ancyra to ) Q „ 
 
 Parnassus . . J *' ' ' yy 
 
 * In the Jerusalem Itinerary the places are distinguished by the 
 words Civitas, city j Mutatio, changing-place ; Mansio.konak. 
 t These four distances occur again in the Antonine (ed. 
 
Ch. 2. 
 
 73 
 
 It. Anton. It. Hierosol. 
 
 Tab. 
 
 Ozzala (Io^ola in Hieros.) 
 Nitazus (Nitalis in Hier.) 
 Colonia Archelais . . 
 
 Total from Parnassus ) 
 to Archelais . S 
 
 Total from Ancyra to \ 
 Archelais . . t 
 
 Itinerary of Itinerary of 
 
 Antoninus. Jerusalem. Peutinger Table. 
 
 17 . . 16 
 
 18 . . 18 
 27 . . 29 
 
 62 
 
 119 
 
 63 
 162 
 
 118* 
 
 Nazianzus (Nantianulus 
 
 in Anton., Anathiango 
 
 in Hieros.) ... 2.5 . . 24 
 
 Sasima 24 . . 24 
 
 Andabalis 16 . . 16 . . 27 f 
 
 Tyana 16 deest. 
 
 Total from Archelais \ 81 
 to Tyana . . S 
 
 TO T l a f n a mAnCyrat0 ! 230 " • 242 § • • ™6 
 
 64 + the 68 + 
 last stage 
 
 Wessel. p. 205.), in the road from Ancyra to Caesareia, or 
 Mazaca, as follows — 24, 18, 20, 22 ; but I have rejected them, 
 because those given in the text from the Antonine are con- 
 firmed by the Jerusalem as far as Aspona. On the other hand, 
 the 24 M. P. from Aspona to Parnassus, in the Antonine, is so 
 far confirmed by the 22 of the same itinerary in the road to 
 Caesareia, as to make it probable that the 35 of the Jerusalem 
 is erroneous. 
 
 * This part of the route in the Table is very incorrect. Ni- 
 tazus seems to stand in the place of Corbeus, and vice versa ■ 
 and the names of Ancyra and Archelais are omitted. 
 
 t This distance is taken from the road from Tyana to Mazaca. 
 
 j By a route which must have been different from that of 
 the other two itineraries ; none of the names being alike. 
 
 § By assuming (from the Antonine) 16 M.P. for the last 
 stage to Tyana. 
 
74 
 
 Ch. 2. 
 
 The Antonine and Jerusalem proceed together 
 as far as Mopsucrene *, 56 M. P. from Tyana in 
 the former and 63 in the latter. From thence the 
 Antonine proceeds by ^Egae to Baiae and Alexandria 
 ad Issum — and the Jerusalem to the same points 
 by Tarsus and Adana. 
 
 Between Tyana and the Pylce was situated Faus- 
 tinopolis, probably not far from the camp of Cy- 
 rus t; for it can hardly be doubted that Curtius, in 
 stating the Pylse to have been only fifty stades from 
 the camp of Cyrus, alluded to the beginning of the 
 passes. The narrowest part, which was particularly 
 called the Pylse, was towards the southern side of 
 the mountain, as the Jerusalem Itinerary | and 
 modern travellers concur in showing. 
 
 Of the places contained in the preceding extract 
 from the Itineraries, Andabilis is the only one of 
 which the position is determined by the name in 
 actual use. But there is a strong presumption 
 
 * Mopsucrene was 12 M. P. short of Tarsus, and was noted 
 for the death of the Emperor Constantius. The name is dis- 
 figured in both the Itineraries. For the correction see the 
 authorities quoted in Cellarius, 1. 3. c. 7. § 122. j but parti- 
 cularly Ammianus, 1. 21. c. 15., compared with Theophanes 
 Chronog. p. 39. The Antonine seems to have confounded 
 Mopsucrene with Mopsuestia ; and hence to have omitted the 
 distance between these two places. 
 
 t Xenoph. Anab. 1.1. c. 2. Arrian, 1. 2. c. 4. Q. Curt. 
 1. 3. c. 4. Strabo, p. 539. 
 
 | According to this authority, the post-station of the Pylae 
 (mutatio Pylae) was 24 M. P. from Tarsus. 
 
Ch. 2. 
 
 75 
 
 that Ak-serai stands on the site of Archelais, as 
 well from the agreement of its position on a line 
 drawn from A'ngura to Bor with that which the 
 distances in the Itineraries give to Archelais on the 
 same line, as from the remark of Pliny, that this 
 colony of Claudius stood on the Halys; for Ak-serai 
 by all accounts is watered by the stream which 
 forms the western branch of that river. As no 
 traveller, however, has yet described Ak-serai, we 
 are still uninformed whether it stands on the exact 
 site of the ancient colony, or only near it. 
 
 Upon comparing together the distances from Ni- 
 csea to Tyana in the three itineraries, it is obvious 
 that the Antonine is most to be depended upon ; for 
 in some of the important points in which it differs 
 from the Jerusalem it is confirmed by the Table ; 
 and in one instance, where it differs from the Jeru- 
 salem, and where the Table fails us, it is confirmed 
 by itself in another passage. We may conclude, 
 therefore, in taking the road distance in Roman miles 
 between Nicsea and Ancyra at 242, and from Ancyra 
 to Tyana at 230. Both these measured on my con- 
 struction in distances of half a degree along the ge- 
 neral direction of the route give 150 geographical 
 miles or a rate of -j%V of a G. M. to the M. P. on 
 the former road, and of -fifo on the latter; both 
 somewhat below the correct rate of the Roman mile 
 on level ground (and such is by far the greater 
 part of this road), but sufficiently near the truth 
 
76 
 
 Ch. 2. 
 
 to give a strong presumption of accuracy both 
 to the ancient numbers and to my construction. 
 It must be confessed, however, that the ancient 
 road which branched to Mazaca from the road 
 Ancyra — Tyana, compared with the map, does 
 not give a similar result. The distance of 114 
 M. P. between Parnassus and Mazaca in the An- 
 tonine Itinerary, compared with the 85 G. M. of 
 the map, gives a rate to the M, P. of not much 
 less than -^V or 4 of a G. M. Future geographers 
 will determine whether my construction is in fault 
 or the Itinerary, which unfortunately on this route 
 we have no means of checking by any other au- 
 thority. 
 
 There are five routes in the Table across Mount 
 Taurus, from the interior plains to the southern 
 coast. The easternmost is not connected at either 
 end ; but the word Paduando shows its real position. 
 The Pylas Cilicise was also called the pass of Podan- 
 dus, which place was about midway between Tyana 
 andTarsus: this route of the Table, therefore, is evi- 
 dently intended for that from Tyana to Tarsus ; and 
 should be connected accordingly*. Next to this is 
 a road from Iconium, unconnected at its southern 
 
 * T* cl-.r-.M +!i~r> h" "£>".-1 *\"i<i Tirana A~i"t Pali/lie 19 
 
 Podando 22 Coriopio 12 in Monte 12Tarso Ciliciae. We know 
 from modern travellers, that there are about 12 miles from the 
 foot of the mountain to Tarsus. Coriopium here stands at the 
 same distance from Tarsus as Pylae in the Jerusalem, and is 
 probably the same place. 
 
Ch. 2. 
 
 77 
 
 extremity, and without any places named on it, 
 except " the boundaries of Cilicia" and " Mount 
 Taurus *." It is evidently intended for the road from 
 Iconium to Tarsus. The third route leads from Ico- 
 nium by Tetrapyrgia to Pompeiopolis: the sum of 
 its distances from " ad fines" (the boundary of Ci- 
 licia) to Pompeiopolis is 54 M.P., or very nearly 
 the same as the distance from the " boundaries " to 
 Tarsus in the former road, and from the " hot wa- 
 ters" to Tarsus, in the first road. It gives us the 
 line of Tetrapyrgiaf ; a town, therefore, which can- 
 not be the same as that placed by Ptolemy in the 
 Garsauritis of Cappadocia. The fourth road led 
 from Iconium by Taspa, Isaura, and Crunse to Se- 
 leuceia, with a branch leading from between Isaura 
 and Crunas to Anemurium. It gives us the line of 
 Isaura, but its distances are imperfect ^. The fifth 
 road across the Taurus led from Iconium to Side, 
 with a branch to Antiocheia of Pisidia. The di- 
 stance in the Table seems to be 80 M. P. to Side, 
 which is about half the reality. 
 
 Having drawn upon the map the several routes 
 
 * I read it thus. Iconium 20 fines Ciliciae 25 in Monte 
 Tauro 30 Tarso Ciliciae : thus connecting the extremity, as in 
 the former instance, with the words Tarso Ciliciae. The num- 
 ber 20 (xx.) ought perhaps to be 120 (cxx). 
 
 t Tetrapyrgia and Crunae are named together by the geo- 
 grapher of Ravenna. 
 
 + The only two that have any appearance of reality are 24 
 M. P. from Taspa to Isaura, and 33 M. P. from Crunae to Se- 
 leuceia. 
 
78 Ch. 2. 
 
 of the three Itineraries, inserting the names of the 
 principal places at their proportional distances, 
 and correcting occasionally their orthography from 
 better authorities, it remains only for me, in refer- 
 ence to the central region immediately under con- 
 sideration, to offer some remarks upon a few of the 
 chief points on which the Itineraries are assisted 
 by other authorities. It is hoped that by these 
 several means the future traveller will be furnished 
 with an approximation that may assist him in as- 
 certaining the real sites. 
 
 The most important places in the northern part 
 of the country under consideration were (after An- 
 cyra), Juliopolis, Pessinus, and Amorium. 
 
 1. Juliopolis. — We learn from Strabo that this 
 city stood on the Sangarius, on the site of the an- 
 cient Gordium*, and that it received its name from 
 Cleon, a native, who after having exercised the 
 profession of robber with great success in Mount 
 Olympus, Phrygia Epictetus, and the adjacent di- 
 stricts, had the good fortune to make himself use- 
 ful, first to Marcus Antonius and afterwards to 
 Julius Csesar: for these services he was acknow- 
 
 * U\r)<riov Ss kou 6 'Zctyydgios ntora^bg itoidrai n)v pv'<nv 
 sir) tie tovtw rd ifaXatd tujv <Ppvycijv o^Yj^pia MiSou xai en 
 irgorspov TopSiov xa) akKojv tivuv, ov$' *x vy ) cwtyvrai iroXscov 
 a,XXa KtZpai puKpuJ pslgovs revv aXXouv olov strri to TopSiov .... 
 
 Strabo, p. 568. 
 
 To $s Tophov her) \x,\i> rijV Qpvyla,; ryjs £■?' 'E.XXrj<rir6vrov, 
 nsirai $s Iff) Tov ~2.ayya.phu itora^ou. Arrian, lib. 1 . c. 29. 
 
Ch. 2. 
 
 79 
 
 ledged by the Romans as an independent prince, 
 and was honoured with the priesthood of Comana 
 in Pontus, and of Jupiter Abrettenus in Mysia: in 
 gratitude to Csesar, he gave the name of Juliopolis 
 to his native town, which had greatly declined from 
 its former importance until he made it his capital*. 
 It appears from an existing coin of Juliopolis f 
 that it was situated at the confluence of the San- 
 garius and Scopas, and from Procopius that it stood 
 about ten miles to the west of the Siberis ^. The 
 latter seems to have been the same stream which 
 Pliny calls Hiera, for he makes no mention of the 
 Siberis, but names the Hiera next to the Scopius ^ ; 
 and the Jerusalem Itinerary places the river Hierus 
 at 13 M. P. to the eastward of Juliopolis ||. The 
 respective distances of Juliopolis from Nicsea and 
 from Ancyra in the Antonine Itinerary fall precisely 
 at the point, where the stream named Aladan by 
 Paul Lucas unites with the Aiala or Sakaria not far 
 
 * Strabo, p. 574. 
 
 t Eckhel. Doct. Num. vet. Bithynia. 
 
 J "Ecrrt §s itoTtxpbs ev Ya.Xdta.ii, ovifep xaXovcriv ol £ir%wpioi 
 'E.lSspiv, rwv y*ev ■x.a.Xov^.kvwv 1.vkeujv ayyiara, itoXsws Je 
 IovXiottoXews dito a")][ji.£iujy fxaXiara Una, e$ td irpo; dviay^ovrx 
 rjXw. Procop. de /Edif. 1. 5. c. 4. 
 
 § De caetero intra in Bithynia colonia Apamena, Agrip- 
 penses, Juliopolitae, Bithynion ; flumina, Syrius, Lapsias, Phar- 
 micas, Alces, Crynis, Lilasus, Scopius, Hiera, qui Bithyniam et 
 Galatiam disterminat. Plin. Hist. Nat. 1. 5. c. 32. 
 
 || Civitas Juliopolis 13 M. P. Mutatio Hieron potamon 11 
 M. P. Agannia (Laganeus) Itin. Hierosol. p. 574. Wessel. 
 
80 
 
 Ch. 2- 
 
 to the westward of Sarilar. The character, also, of 
 being subject to inundation, which Procopius shows 
 to have been that of the Siberis *, agrees with a 
 remark of Lucas in regard to the Kirmir, which he 
 crossed between Beybazar and Aids, and which falls 
 into the Sakaria about ten miles to the eastward of 
 the junction of the Aladan. From all these consi- 
 derations it appears that the Aladan is the Scopas, 
 and the Kirmir the Siberis or Hierus; and that 
 some vestiges of Juliopolis would probably be found 
 at or near Sarilar at the junction of the Scopas or 
 Aladan with the Sangarius. Pliny remarks that the 
 Hierus was the boundary of Bithynia and Galatia, 
 thus agreeing with Ptolemy t, who places Julio- 
 polis the last town in Bithynia, after Dablae and 
 Dadastana. At a later period, however, Dadastana, 
 where the Emperor Jovian died, was considered the 
 frontier town ^. 
 
 That Juliopolis stood exactly at the junction of 
 the two rivers Sangarius and Scopas, may be in- 
 ferred as well from the coin as from Procopius, 
 who informs us that Justinian erected a dyke to 
 defend the walls of Juliopolis from the ravages of 
 a river flowing on the western side of the city || : 
 
 * Justinian built abridge and dyke to preserve the high road 
 from the ravages of the Siberis. Procop. de JEdiL 1. 5. c 4. 
 
 t Plin. ubi supr. Ptolem. 1 5. c. 1. 
 
 X Ammian. 1. 25. sub fin. Socrat. 1. 3. sub fin. Sozomen, 
 1. 6. c. 6. Theodoret 1. 4. c. 5. 
 
 || Procop. De /Edif. 1. 5. c 4. 
 
Ch. 2. 
 
 81 
 
 a remark which shows also, that the city was on the 
 eastern side of the junction. 
 
 The advantages which twice made this site the 
 capital of the surrounding country were not entirely 
 those of its position, at the confluence of two peren- 
 nial streams in the centre of the fertile valley of the 
 Sangarius, near the southern foot of the Olympene 
 range, and at a favourable point for commanding 
 the open country to the southward, though all these 
 must have had a powerful influence on its prosperity. 
 They were in part derived from its situation relatively 
 to the sea-coasts of Asia Minor; its central position, 
 and the facility of its communication as well with 
 the Euxine and iEg?ean as with the Pamphylian sea, 
 having made it one of the most frequented com- 
 mercial marts in the peninsula*. 
 
 * Postero die ad Gordium pervenit. Id baud magnum qui- 
 dem oppidum est, sed plus quam mediterraneum celebre et 
 frequens emporium : tria maria pari ferine distantia intervallo 
 habet, Hellespontum, ad Sinopen, et alterius orre litora, qua 
 Cilices maritimi colunt: multarum magnarumque prreterea gen- 
 tium fines contingit, quarum commercium in eum maxime locum 
 mutui usus contraxere. Liv. 1. 38. c. 18. 
 
 Phrygia tunc babebat quondam nobilem Mid<e regiam; Gordium 
 nomen est urbi, quam Sangarius amnis interfluit pari intervallo 
 Pontico et Cilicio mari distantem. Q. Curt. 1. 3. c. 1 . 
 
 Tbese observations of Livy and Curtius may be taken as ex- 
 amples of the extreme negligence and inaccuracy often shown 
 by the Latin authors in matters of fact relating to foreign coun- 
 tries. It could hardly have been unknown at Rome in their 
 time, that Gordium was not half so distant from the Propontis 
 or Euxine as from the JEgxnn or Cilician sea. 
 
 G 
 
82 
 
 Ch. 2. 
 
 
 
 
 2. Pessinus. — It unfortunately happens, that the 
 only two ancient places in this country, the positions 
 of which are deduced from the superior though not 
 always infallible evidence, of apreservation of the an- 
 cient name, Orcistus and Germa, afford us very little 
 assistance in a determination of the neighbouring 
 sites. Orcistus does not occur in the itineraries or 
 in the march of Manlius; its position at Alekiam 
 serves, therefore, only to show where those roads did 
 not pass. As to Germa, its position at Yerma is in 
 total disagreement with the itinerary of Antoninus, 
 according to which, Germa was 16 M. P. on the 
 road from Pessinus to Ancyra*; whereas Pessinus 
 being by the consent of Polybius, Livy, and Strabo 
 on the Sangariusf, and Yerma being about 15 
 
 * Iter a Pesinunte Ancyram 
 Sic 
 
 99 M. P. 
 
 Iter a Dorylao Ancyra 
 
 Germa - 
 
 - 16 
 
 Vindia - 
 
 - 24 
 
 Papira - 
 
 - 32 
 
 Ancyra - 
 
 - 27 
 
 icyra 
 
 - 141 M. P. 
 
 Sic 
 
 Arcelaio 
 Germa - 
 Vindia - 
 
 30 
 20 
 32 
 'ap:ra - 32 
 
 Ancyra - - 27 
 The 32 to Vindia is an error for 24, as appears by the numbers 
 in the former list agreeing with the total : 32 seems by a mis- 
 take of the copier to have been written twice. 
 
 t Polyb. 1. 22. c. 20. Liv. 1. 38. c. 18. Strabo, p. .567. Hero- 
 
Cb. 2. 
 
 83 
 
 miles to the S. W. of that river, Pessinus should 
 rather have been on the road from Germa to An- 
 cyra, if Germa was at Yerma. We are under the 
 necessity, therefore, either of doubting the identity 
 of Yerma, or of rejecting the evidence of the An- 
 tonine as to the site of Pessinus. I am the more 
 inclined to adopt the latter part of the alternative, 
 because that itinerary is liable to great suspicion 
 in this place, from its total disagreement with the 
 Peutinger Table in its distance from Dorylaeum to 
 Germa, while the Table on the other hand is con- 
 firmed by the actual construction. The Table 
 gives 77 M. P. from Dorylseum to Pessinus *, 
 
 dian (in the Life of Commodus) says that Pessinus was on 
 the Gallus : but we know from Strabo that the Gallus was 
 that branch of the Sakaria which waters the valley of L6fke. 
 The mistake of Herodian is easily accounted for:— The Gallus 
 being a very important branch of the Sangarius, the united 
 stream was often known by the former name; as we observe in 
 Ammianus, — who in coupling the Gallus with the lake Sophon, 
 which we know from some passages in the Byzantine histoiy 
 to have been the lake of Sabanja, — evidently means by the 
 Gallus the lower part of the Sangarius. In process of time 
 the name Gallus became applied to the whole course of the 
 Sangarius as far as its sources. The same thing happened 
 to the Scamander at Troy, the name of which between the 
 time of Homer and that of Antiochus the Great had become 
 attached not only to the part below the junction of the two 
 rivers, but to that also above it, as far even as the sources 
 of the Homeric Simoeis. 
 
 * Dorileo 28 Mideo 28 Tricomia 2 1 Pessinunte. Tab. 
 Peutinger, seg. 6. 
 
 g2 
 
84 Ch. 2. 
 
 which agrees very accurately with the 5G G.M. of 
 direct distance on the map ; whereas the Antonine 
 has only 50 M. P. from Dorylseum to Germa, 
 although according to that itinerary Germa ought 
 to be still further than Pessinus from Dorykeum. 
 It is probable, therefore, that there is some error 
 in this part of the Antonine itinerary, and that the 
 Roman remains which Mr. Kinneir observed at Yer- 
 ma are really those of the Roman colony of Germa. 
 Pessinus was situated on theSangarius, at the foot 
 of mount Dindymum*. It appears from Livy )" to 
 have been on the right bank of the river ; for lie states 
 thatManlius coming from the southward, after hav- 
 ing constructed a bridge and crossed the river, was 
 met by the priests of Pessinus as he marched along 
 thebank ; and that having accepted the omen of their 
 predictions in favour of theRomans, he halted for the 
 day in the same place where he met them, which 
 appears to have been very near to Pessinus. As he 
 arrived on the next day at Gordium, which we have 
 already seen was only ten or thirteen miles from 
 the river Hierus; and as his march in direct di- 
 stance could hardly have been more than 14 G. M. 
 — it is evident that Pessinus was not very far above 
 the junction of the Hierus with the Sangarius. It 
 is not improbable that it may have stood exactly 
 at the junction of these two streams, and that the 
 
 * Strabo, p. .007. t Liv. 1. 38 c. 18. 
 
Ch. 2. 
 
 85 
 
 Hierus may have received that name as partaking 
 of the sacred character of Pessinus. 
 
 This position of Pessinus, it may he observed, is 
 in exact agreement with the account which Am- 
 mianus gives of the march of Julian from Ni- 
 csea ; who, after having followed the great road of 
 the Itineraries as far as the confines of Gallograecia 
 (near Gordium), turned to the right to Pessinus *. 
 The traveller, therefore, who after discovering the 
 site of Gordium should turn out of the great road 
 to A'ngura about Sarilar, and follow the right 
 bank of the Sangarius, could hardly fail in finding 
 some indications of the site of a place which is de- 
 scribed by Strabo f as a great mart of commerce, and 
 which flourished as a metropolitan bishopric until 
 the Mussulman conquest^. It is not impossible 
 that he might discover some remains of the very an- 
 cient and celebrated temple dedicated to Angistis, 
 the Great Goddess, or Phrygian Cybele, which had 
 been sumptuously adorned with porticos of white 
 marble by the Pergamenian kings, and which was 
 the object of the visit of the apostate emperor. 
 
 The only evidence of ancient history militating 
 against the position of Pessinus here supposed, is 
 the assertion of Strabo that the sources of the San- 
 garius were only 150 stades distant from Pessinus, 
 
 * Ammian. 1.22. c.9. 
 | Notit. Episc. Graec, 
 
 f Strabo, p. 567. 
 
86 
 
 Ch. 2. 
 
 for this short interval does not very well agree with 
 the description of the Sakaria given by Pococke and 
 Kinneir, who crossed it considerably above the sup- 
 posed site of Pessinus*, — a better knowledge of the 
 country will show whether the error is in the num- 
 bers of Strabo, or in my conjecture as to the site 
 of Pessinus : or, perhaps, it may be found that the 
 sources of the Sangarius alluded to by Strabo were, 
 in the same manner as those of the Maeander and 
 of several other Grecian rivers, not the natural or 
 most distant springs of the river ; although, from 
 something remarkable in them, they may have been 
 the reputed sources. 
 
 3. Amorium chiefly flourished under the Byzan- 
 tine empire. It was the metropolitan see of the 
 Second Galatia, and was taken and cruelly plun- 
 dered by the Caliph Motasem, in the year of the 
 Christian sera 837 t« Under the Saracens it rose 
 to be the chief town of all the surrounding coun- 
 try ; and continued to be so in the eleventh cen- 
 tury, when Idrisi wrote his geographical work J. 
 The Turkish conquest, however, effected so com- 
 plete a change in the political arrangement and 
 geographical nomenclature of Asia Minor, that we 
 find no trace of the name of Amorium in the Turk- 
 
 * Pococke, however, observes, that the river was " small " 
 where he crossed it, " being near the sources." 
 t Zonar. Ann. 1. 15. c. 29. 
 \ Geogr. Nubicns. (Clim. 5. pars 5.) 
 
Ch. 2. 
 
 87 
 
 ish Geographers; and future travellers will perhaps 
 find the best evidence of its site in its Saracenic 
 vestiges, combined with such slender data as the 
 Greek authors have left us. Strabo, and Stephanus 
 who follows him, place Amorium in Great Phrygia; 
 and Strabo clearly describes it * as being in the 
 country which lay southward of Cotyaeium, Dory- 
 lseum, and Pessinus ; westward of Lycaonia, and 
 in the parts near Phrygia Paroreius and Synnada. 
 And this situation of Amorium serves to explain, 
 and at the same time receives confirmation from, 
 a part of the Peutinger Table which is rather ob- 
 scure. We find in this Table a road from Pessinus 
 to Amorium by Abrostola, and from thence to Lao- 
 diceia Combusta ; it then returns from Amorium 
 to Abrostola, and from the latter is carried to join 
 the great route from Ancyra to Tyana, at Sala- 
 berina (the Salambria of Ptolemy) 20 M. P. beyond 
 Archelais. Hence it seems evident, upon placing 
 these routes upon the map, that Amorium must 
 have been to the southward of Abrostola; a situa- 
 tion which agrees very well with that described in 
 the words of Strabo. 
 
 * Trjs $' ' EitixTrjTO'j $pvyia$ 'Agavoi ?e slcri xa) NaxoXeia 
 xa) Kotidsiov, xa) MiSdetov xa) AopuXaiov ifoXsig * * * 'Tifep de 
 TftS 'ETriKrrjTov nrpb; vorov k<rr)v ij jUgyaAij $pvyia AsiVoucra ev 
 dpKrrspa rr,v Usa-arivomra xa) rd irsp) 'Opxaopvxovg xa) Avxao- 
 vlav, ev Serial Sh Malovas xa) Av$ov$ xa.) Kdpa$" lv j g<rriv yre 
 Xlctpuopsios Xsyoy.ivy) $pvyia xa) rj tfpbs Hurt Sloe xa) rd rfsp) 'Apo- 
 piov xa) JLv{/,ivaav xa) Xu'waJa. Strabo, p. 576. 
 
£8 
 
 Ch. 2. 
 
 The princess Anna Comnena * relates that her 
 father Alexius, in his expedition against the Turks 
 in the year 1116, after moving from Doryiaeum, 
 sent forward detachments of his army from a place 
 called Santabaris, towards Polybotum in one di- 
 rection, and in another towards Pcemanene and 
 Amorium. This seems to place Santabaris at or 
 near Seid-el-Ghazi, and Pcemanene between that 
 place and Amorium. 
 
 Orcaoryci, which the passage of Strabo cited in 
 the preceding note tends to place to the northward 
 of Lycaonia, towards Pessinus, is shown by the 
 geographer's description of Galatia to have been 
 between that city and the lake Tatta, on the con- 
 fines of the Tectosages f. A third mention of 
 Orcaoryci by the same author, seems to imply that 
 it was not to the northward of Tatta ;£. Not far 
 from these places was a town called Pitnisus, or Pit- 
 nissa §, or Petenessus ||. Ptolemy, who considers 
 this country a part of Lycaonia, names Petenessus 
 
 * Anna Comn. 1. 15. p. 470. 
 
 f Texrotrayss Sa rd tfpb; ry ^isyaXji Qpvyla. rr, xard riecrcn- 
 vovvra xa)'OpKa.opuxov$. Strabo, p. 567. 
 
 J Mera 8h rr,v TaXarlav itphs vorov yjte xlpvr, E<rr)v 15 Tdrra, 
 Tfapaxsi^ihrj rr, (xsydXji KcntiraSoxia. rr, xtxrd rov$ Mnptixrvovc, 
 pzpo$ $' ovcra rr t $ peydXys Qpuylag' xa) ij crvvE^TjS ravrr, fie'xpi 
 
 rov Tavpov, y$ ttjv TrAs/cmjv 'Afji,vvra$ zlyjEv Hre fy 
 
 Tdrra icrr) xa) rd irefi 'Opxaopvxovg xa) Uirvurov xa) rd rwv 
 hvxaovwv opoTfeSitx, ^vyjd xa) tyi\d, &c. Strabo, p. 568. 
 
 $ Stcphan. in Uirvurtra. || Ptolcm. 1. 5. c. 4. 
 
Ch. 2. 
 
 89 
 
 next to Daumana, or Ecdamua, or Ecdaumana — 
 the same, undoubtedly, as the Egdaua of the Table, 
 which places it at 71 M. P. from Abrostola, on the 
 road to Tyana. This position, therefore, of Pete- 
 nessus, and consequently of the neighbouring Or- 
 caoryci, agrees perfectly with that which is dedu- 
 cible from the observations of Strabo. Orcaoryci 
 and the neighbouring places formed a part of the 
 axylous country described by Livy, through which 
 the consul Manlius marched his army in proceed- 
 ing from Synnada to cross the Sangarius near Pes- 
 sinus *. I am unable to trace his route, because 
 none of the names of the intermediate places 
 mentioned by him are found in any other author. 
 In any such attempt it will be necessary to recol- 
 lect that the boundaries of the Asiatic provinces 
 followed by Strabo, were not established until long 
 after the time of Manlius, by Augustus and Tibe- 
 rius, — that the Gauls had not long before conquered 
 the greater part of Asia Minor, and that the Con- 
 sul's expedition was for the purpose of reducing 
 them. Hence we find that he arrived at the limits 
 of the Tolistobogii only in three days' march from 
 Beudos ; he then moved, in four days, to Alyatti ; 
 from thence crossed the Aocylus to Cuballum, 
 where he was attacked by the Galatian cavalry ; 
 and from thence, in several days' continued march 
 
 * Liv. 1. 38. c. 15 et seq. 
 
90 
 
 Ch. 2. 
 
 (continentibus itineribus), he arrived at the San- 
 garius. It is evident that the Consul was not 
 inarching in any regular line during these days, but 
 was overrunning the country of the Tolistobogii, 
 while waiting for an answer from the king of the 
 Tectosages : it seems not at all improbable, there- 
 fore, that he may have advanced as far southward 
 as the Caballucome placed in the Table at 23 M.P. 
 from Laodiceia, and at 32 from Sabatia ; and con- 
 sequently, that the Caballucome of the Table may 
 be the same as the Cuballum of Livy. 
 
 There can be little doubt that the Tolosocorio 
 marked in the Table at 24 miles from Abrostola, 
 in the road to Tyana, and which by Ptolemy is 
 written ToXuaro'/pgu, ought to be Tolistochora, 
 " the town of the Tolistobogii " ; who being the 
 southern and western division of the Galatians, 
 must have precisely occupied the part of the country 
 in which the direction and distances of the route 
 in the Table place Tolistochora *. It has already 
 been remarked, that the Egdaua of this road in the 
 Table is the Ecdaumana of Ptolemy; in like man- 
 ner Congusso may be corrected from him into Con- 
 
 * The chief town of the Tolistobogii, however, in the time 
 of Strabo, was not Tolistochora, but Pessinus. Ancyra, accord- 
 ing to the arrangement of Augustus, was the chief town of 
 the Tectosages, who occupied the central part of Galatia, and 
 Tavium was that of Trocrni, who possessed the eastern part of 
 the province. Strabo, p. 567. 
 
Ch. 2. 
 
 91 
 
 gustus; Petra into Perta, which writing is confirmed 
 by the Notitiae Episcopatuum * ; and Salaberina 
 into Salambria, at which place the road fell into 
 that from Archelais to Tyana. 
 
 * A bishop of Perta sat in the Second Nicene Council, a.d. 
 787. 
 
 Additional note lo page 51. 
 
 The existence of a large district in the interior of Asia Minor, 
 in which the waters do not flow to the sea, and that much 
 larger tract on the frontier of Persia, and Caubul, which is 
 watered by the Elmend, (Etymander) terminating in a lake 
 subject to periodical inundations, seem sufficient without other 
 examples to render it probable that a great part of the still 
 larger continent of North Africa may have a physical construc- 
 tion of the same kind, and that its interior may be a system 
 of oases, formed by rivers ending in lakes which vary in size 
 according to the season of the year. The mode in which 
 Nature fertilizes low lands in countries so situated as to climate 
 that rain seldom falls, except in the mountains or their vicinity, 
 is exemplified in Egypt; and it is obvious that the same end 
 may be produced, whether the inundating river has a delta and 
 a communication with the sea, or whether it terminates in a 
 lake which overflows large plains around its banks after the 
 season of rain in the high lands. In some instances, as in the 
 small district of Taka, which is situated in the midst of the 
 Desert, between the Astaboras and the Red Sea, the inunda- 
 tion which descends from the mountains of Abyssinia previous 
 to the season of vegetation, is afterwards totally dried up. 
 (Burckhardt's Nubia, p. 387.) But it more frequently happens 
 that the recipient preserves a part of its water all the year; and 
 this seems to be the condition of the lakes of Fitre and Bornou. 
 From the southern slopes of the African mountains bordering on 
 
92 
 
 Ch. 2. 
 
 the Mediterranean Sea, several considerable rivers run south- 
 ward into the great Desert, which cannot terminate otherwise 
 than in fertilized sands, or lakes, or inundations. The lake 
 Dibbie, or Tybe, which was crossed by Alexander Scott in the 
 course of his captivity, we know from Park to be an inundation 
 derived from the Niger. It is not impossible that the lake of 
 Bornou may originate, in part at least, from the same stream ; 
 for as Nature generally economizes her means, it is evident 
 that in the case of an interior river the greatest effect will be 
 produced by the spreading of its waters as its course advances, 
 instead of their being collected into one bed, as occurs in rivers 
 which flow into the sea. In proportion, therefore, as the in- 
 formation of travellers may show the impossibility of a junction 
 of the Niger with the Nile (and Browne and English seem to 
 have furnished the strongest evidence to this effect), it will 
 become more probable that the Niger, by branching and by 
 expanding into lakes and inundations, is the great fertilizing 
 cause throughout the low countries of North Africa which lie 
 just without the reach of the tropical rains. Thus spread out 
 and exposed to the rapid evaporation of an African sun, the 
 Niger may be as large, or perhaps even larger where Park saw 
 it at Sego, than in any subsequent part of its course. In several 
 rivers of Spain, Italy, and particularly of Greece, artificial de- 
 rivations alone have caused a similar effect ; so that the quantity 
 of water in the bed of the river diminishes instead of increases 
 from the foot of the mountains to the sea. Even the Nile car- 
 ries very little of its water to the sea, except during the inun- 
 dation j and in ancient times when the Maeris and other smaller 
 lakes were annually filled to a great extent, and when three or 
 four times as much land was watered by the overflowing of the 
 river as in the present day, the quantity of water discharged 
 by the mouths of the Nile must have been still smaller than it 
 is at present. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 CONTINUATION OF THE JOURNEY FROM KONIA. 
 
 Tshumra — Kassabd — KaramdnorLdranda — Ancient Cities of this 
 Part of the Country — Laranda, Derbe, Lystra, Ilistra. — Pas- 
 sage over Mount Taurus into the Valley of the Calycadnus — 
 Mout. — Passage of another Ridge of Taurus — Sheikh- Amur — 
 Approach to the Sea-coast — G ulnar or KeUnderi, ancient Co- 
 lenderis — Ancient Cities of the Interior of Tracheiotis — Olbasa 
 Claudiopolis — Philadelphia — Dioca?sareia. — Passage by Sea to 
 Cyprus — Tzerina — Lefkosia — Ldrnaka — Return to Tzerina — ■ 
 Passage by Sea to Khdradra — Cape Selenti — Aldya. — Author s 
 Route 'by Sea along the Coast to Constantinople. — Journal 
 of General Koehler from Aldya to Shughut — Alara — Menov- 
 gdt — Stavros — Addlia — Bidjikli — Tshaltigshe — Bdrdur — 
 Ketsiburlu — Dombai — Sandakli — Sitshanli — Altun Tash — 
 Kutdya — Indghi — Shughut. — Conclusion of the Tour. 
 
 Feb. 1. — Our journey of this day is from Konia 
 to Tshumra, reckoned a six hours' stage. We have 
 remarked that since leaving Ak-shehr the post- 
 horses are of an inferior kind. They are larger 
 and not well formed, often broken-knee'd, and fre- 
 quently falling, which seldom happened in the first 
 part of our journey. Those supplied from Konia 
 for this day's journey are very indifferent, and we 
 did not get them till ten o'clock, nor till after we 
 had paid some high fees to the post- master and 
 Tatar-aga. The plain of Konia is considered the 
 largest in Asia Minor; our road pursues a perfect 
 level for upwards of twenty miles, and is in excel- 
 
94 
 
 Ch. 3. 
 
 lent order for travelling. In such roads the journey, 
 even with loaded horses, may be performed in two- 
 thirds of the computed time. A rough kind of 
 two-wheeled carriage, drawn by oxen or buffaloes, 
 is used in this plain. It runs upon trucks, inge- 
 niously formed of six pieces of solid wood, three 
 in the centre, and three on the outside, the outer 
 joints falling opposite to the centre of the inner 
 pieces ; the whole is kept together by an iron 
 felloe, and by fastenings connecting the outer pieces 
 with the inner. 
 
 Tshumra is a small village with a scanty culti- 
 vation around it. We are lodged in a Turk's cot- 
 tage, which consists of two apartments. The inner 
 (which is considerably the larger of the two) is for 
 his horse; the other is separated from the passage 
 leading into the stable by two or three steps and a 
 low rail, and is just sufficient to contain the fire- 
 place, and a sofa on either side of it. This is the 
 whole of his habitation, and here we are just able 
 to find room enough to lie down at night. 
 
 Feb. 2. — From Tshumra to Kassaba, nine hours 
 over the same uninterrupted level of the finest soil, 
 but quite uncultivated, except in the immediate 
 neighbourhood of a few widely dispersed villages. 
 It is painful to behold such desolation in the midst 
 of a region so highly favoured by nature. Another 
 characteristic of these Asiatic plains is the exact- 
 ness of the level, and the peculiarity of their extend- 
 
Ch. :*. 
 
 95 
 
 ing, without any previous slope, to the foot of the 
 mountains, which rise from them, like lofty islands 
 out of the surface of the ocean. The Karamanian 
 ridge seems to recede as we approach it, and the 
 snowy summits of Argseus are still seen to the 
 north-eastward. We passed only one small village 
 in this day's route. It was called Alibey Kiiii, and 
 was situated at one hour's distance short of Kassaba. 
 We observed, however, some ruins of villages, and 
 in several places fragments of ancient architecture, 
 particularly about half way, at a bridge constructed 
 almost entirely of such remains, which traverses a 
 small stream running from the mountain on our 
 right to the lake of Konia. At three or four miles 
 short of Kassaba, we are abreast of the middle 
 of the very lofty insulated mountain already men- 
 tioned, called Kara-dagh. It is said to be chiefly 
 inhabited by Greek Christians, and to contain 1001 
 churches ; but we afterwards learned that these 
 1001 churches (Bin-bir Klissa) was a name given 
 to the extensive ruins of an ancient city at the foot 
 of the mountain. Since leaving Konia we have 
 experienced more civility from the inhabitants than 
 before ; a change to be ascribed to our being now 
 upon a less frequented route. On approaching 
 Kassaba, the people met us in great numbers. One 
 person threw a pair of pigeons, with the legs tied 
 together, under the feet of the general's horse; 
 others wrestled and danced. On arriving at our 
 
96 
 
 Ch. 3. 
 
 lodging they brought us presents of water-melons, 
 dried grapes, and other fruits. Kassaba differs 
 from every town we have passed through, in being 
 built of stone instead of sun-baked bricks. It is 
 surrounded with a wall flanked by redans, or an- 
 gular projections, and has some handsome gates 
 of Saracenic architecture. It has a well supplied 
 bazar, and seems formerly to have been a Turkish 
 town of more importance than it is at present. 
 The dry clear weather which has been so propitious 
 to our travelling, has been very unfavourable to 
 agriculture. At Kassaba we are informed that 
 there has been neither snow nor rain for two 
 months, and that the drought is very distressing. 
 Khatun-serai is four hours to the westward of Kas- 
 saba, in a pleasant situation in the mountains. 
 
 Feb. 3. — From Kassaba to Karaman, four hours: 
 the weather cool and overcast; the road still pass- 
 ing over a plain, which towards the mountains 
 begins to be a little intersected with low ridges 
 and ravines. At one hour from Kassaba we pass 
 on the outside of Illisera, a small town with low 
 walls and towers, built of mud bricks, and situated 
 upon a rising ground half a mile from the foot 
 of the mountains. Between these mountains and 
 the Kara-dagh there is a kind of strait, which 
 forms the communication between the plain of 
 Karaman and the great levels lying eastward of 
 Konia. Having passed this opening, we enter the 
 
Ch. 3. 
 
 97 
 
 plain of Karaman. Our course from Konia has 
 been more southerly than it was before we reached 
 that town, or upon an average S. by E. by com- 
 pass. We are told that the mountains above II- 
 lisera produce madder in great abundance, partly 
 used in the dyeing manufactories of Konia, and 
 partly sent to Smyrna. The plain of Karaman 
 and the foot of the surrounding mountains are in 
 general well cultivated; and as they present a more 
 bounded prospect, and are intersected with frequent 
 streams, and varied with swelling grounds, they 
 are much more pleasing and picturesque than the 
 immense unbroken levels we have for so many days 
 been travelling over. 
 
 Advancing towards Karaman I perceive a pass- 
 age into the plains to the N.W. round the north- 
 ern end of Kara-dagh, similar to that of Illisera on 
 the south, so that this mountain is completely insu- 
 lated. We still see to the north-east the great snowy 
 summits of Argaeus, which is probably the highest 
 point of Asia Minor*. As we approached the town 
 of Karamdn two horsemen met us, and conducted 
 us to our Konak, at the house of the Vekil of the 
 
 * By the description of Mr. Kinneir it appears that Argaeus 
 is not less than 8 or 9000 feet above the sea; for it was covered 
 with snow to a great distance below the summit in October : 
 Strabo's expression, therefore, of opo; vdvricv v^Koratos may, 
 perhaps, apply to it with truth, if we confine his observation to 
 the countries between the Caucasus and the Alps. 
 
 H 
 
98 
 
 Ch. 3. 
 
 Bishop of Iconium, who is at the head of the 
 Christian community of the place. Karaman is 
 situated at a distance of two miles from the foot 
 of the mountains. Its ancient Greek name, La- 
 randa, with the accent on the first syllable, is still 
 in common use among the Christians, and is 
 even retained in the firmahns of the Porte. The 
 houses, in number about a thousand, are separated 
 from one another by gardens, and occupy a large 
 space of ground. There are now only three or 
 four mosques, but I observed the ruins of several 
 others; and the remains of a castle show that the 
 place was formerly of much greater importance. 
 It was the capital of a Turkish kingdom, which 
 lasted from the time of the partition of the domi- 
 nions of the Seljukian monarchs of Iconium until 
 1486, when all Caramania was reduced to subjec- 
 tion by the Ottoman emperor Bayazid the Second. 
 Karaman derives its name from the first and great- 
 est of its princes, who on the death of Sultan 
 Aladin the Second, about the year 1300, made 
 himself master of Iconium, Cilicia, Pamphylia, 
 Lycaonia, and of a large portion of Phrygia and 
 Cappadocia. His name, like those of some other 
 Turkish chieftains*, who at the same time shared 
 among them a great part of the western provinces 
 of the peninsula, has been transmitted to poste- 
 
 * Karasi, Sarukhan, Aidin, Kermian. (See Niceph. Greg. 
 1. 7. c. 1 . Chalcocond. I. 1. p. 7. 
 
Cli. 3. 
 
 99 
 
 rity in one of the great Turkish divisions of Asia 
 Minor. The Ottomans upon obtaining posses- 
 sion of Karaman subdivided it into Kharidj the 
 outer and Itshili the interior country : probably 
 because to them who came from the north-east 
 Itshili, which comprises the Cilician coast and 
 Cyprus, lay behind or within the mountains; Ico- 
 nium the former Seljukian capital became the seat 
 of the Ottoman Pashalik; and the decline of the 
 town of Karaman may be dated from that pe- 
 riod. 
 
 The appearance of Karaman indicates poverty. 
 The only manufactures are some coarse cotton and 
 woollen stuffs; but they send the produce of the 
 surrounding mountains, consisting chiefly of hides, 
 wool, and acorns used in dyeing, to the neighbour- 
 ing coasts and to Smyrna. The houses are built 
 of sun-baked bricks, with flat roofs. The chimneys 
 being very wide, and much exposed to violent winds 
 from the surrounding mountains, have a trap-door 
 on the top, which may be raised or lowered at 
 pleasure, by means of a cord, communicating 
 through the roof into the house. The women of 
 Karamdn when passing through the streets conceal 
 their faces with unusual care. In the other parts 
 of Asia Minor a veil covering the upper and lower 
 parts of the face has been the utmost we have re- 
 marked, but here I see several women with only a 
 single eye exposed to the view of passengers. The 
 
 H 2 
 
100 
 
 Ch. 3. 
 
 rest of the person is in the usual shapeless form of 
 Turkish drapery. 
 
 We could not find any Greek remains at Kara- 
 m&n, with the sole exception of a stone in a wall 
 near the entrance of the castle with the words 
 
 ICDANNHC A0M6CTIK0C upon it. 
 
 The chief ancient towns near Laranda were Derbe 
 and Lystra, whose names have been immortalized 
 by the sacred writer of the Acts of the Apostles # . 
 — About the middle of the century preceding the 
 birth of Christ, Derbe was the residence of an in- 
 dependent chief, or robber, as Strabo calls him -j~, 
 named Antipatrus, who possessed also Laranda. 
 Antipatrus having been slain by Amyntas king of 
 Galatia, Derbe fell into the power of the latter; 
 who had already received Isauria from the Romans, 
 upon its reduction by Servilius. Amyntas con- 
 quered all Pisidia, as far as Apollonias, near Apa- 
 meia Cibotus; but having fallen in fighting with 
 the Homonadenses, his dominions devolved to the 
 Romans ; who having not long afterwards suc- 
 ceeded also to those of Archelaus king of Cappa- 
 docia, made a new distribution of these provinces, 
 in which Derbe, as we have already seen, was the 
 western extremity of the Cilician prefecture of 
 
 * Act. Apost. c. 14. 
 
 f Cicero speaks of him with more respect : " Cum Antipa- 
 tro Derbete mihi non solum hospitium, verum etiam summa 
 familiaritas intercedit." — Ep. ad Div. 1. 13. ep. 73. 
 
Ch. 3. 
 
 101 
 
 Cappadocia. Strabo, from whom we learn most 
 of the preceding facts *, observes in another place, 
 that Derbe was on the Isaurian frontier of Cappa- 
 docia-f*. But it must also have been on the frontier 
 of Lycaonia; for about the same time St. Luke calls 
 both Derbe and Lystra cities of Lycaonia. About a 
 century afterwards, we find that Derbe had been se- 
 parated from the Cilician prefecture of Cappadocia, 
 and that it formed, — together with Laranda and 
 the adjacent part of Mount Taurus, which contained 
 Olbasa, — a separate district called Antiochiana ; 
 which Ptolemy places between Lycaonia and the 
 Tyanitis £. From all these circumstances, there 
 seems no doubt that Derbe stood in the great Ly- 
 caonian plain, not far from the Cilician Taurus, 
 on the Cappadocian side of Laranda ; a situation 
 precisely agreeing with that of the ruins called 
 the 1001 churches of Mount Kara-dagh. These 
 ruins have never been visited, or at least described, 
 by any modern traveller ; nor has the route from 
 Laranda to Erkle, near which they stand, been tra- 
 versed by any except Bertrandon de la Brocquiere, 
 in 1432, from whom we learn nothing more than 
 that he travelled for two days in a plain from Erkle 
 
 * Strabo, p. 534. 567. 
 
 f 1% $a 'l<ravpiKvj$ hativ Iv irXsvpous, tj Aepfij, (jLaXurra, Iv 
 KaifTtaSonla. sTrnrsQVKOf, ro tov 'Avrnroirpou Tvpavvshv rov AspEy- 
 tow tovtov $' r,v xa) rd AdpavSa. Strabo.. p. 569. 
 
 I Ptolem.l. 5.c. 6. 
 
102 
 
 Ch. 3. 
 
 to L&randa. It is impossible, therefore, to say, 
 whether there is any lake near these ruins, which 
 will support the conjecture that the word Xtpriv, 
 used by Stephanus * in speaking of Derbe, may be 
 altered into "kipvq ; for without this change the word 
 can have no meaning. 
 
 Lystra appears to have been nearer than Derbe 
 to Iconium ; for St. Paul, leaving that city, proceeds 
 firtt to Lystra, and from thence to Derbe ; and in 
 like manner returns to Lystra, to Iconium, and to 
 Antiocheia of Pisidia. And this seems to agree with 
 the arrangement of Ptolemy, who places Lystra 
 in Isauria, and near Isaura, which seems evidently 
 to have occupied some part of the valley of Sidy 
 Shehr, or Bey Shehr. Under the Greek empire, 
 Homonade, Isaura, and Lystra, as well as Derbe 
 and Laranda, were all included in the consular 
 province of Lycaonia, and were bishoprics of the 
 metropolitan see of Iconium. The similarity of 
 name induced me at first to believe that Lystra 
 was situated at the modern Illisera ; but we find, 
 as well in the civil arrangement of the cities in 
 Hierocles as in two ecclesiastical lists in the No- 
 titise Episcopatuum, that Lystra and Iiistra were 
 distinct places. I am inclined to think that the 
 vestiges of Lystra may be sought for with the great- 
 est probability of success at or near Wiran Khatoun 
 or Khatoun Serai, about 30 miles to the southward 
 * Stephan. in AepGy 
 
Ch. 3. 
 
 103 
 
 of Iconium. Nothing can more strongly show the 
 little progress 'that has hitherto been made in a 
 knowledge of the ancient geography of Asia Minor, 
 than that of the cities, which the journey of St. Paul 
 has made so interesting to us, the site of one only 
 (Iconium) is yet certainly known. Perga, Antioch 
 of Pisidia, Lystra, and Derbe, remain to be disco- 
 vered. 
 
 Feb. 4. — Such is the poverty of Karaman, that 
 we cannot procure the number of horses necessary 
 for our party, and are obliged to perform the re- 
 mainder of the journey to the coast, reckoned at 
 thirty-six hours, with camels, instead of horses, 
 for carrying our baggage, although the intervening 
 track, being almost entirely mountainous, is the 
 kind of country the least adapted to that animal. 
 It requires all this day to procure a sufficiency of 
 camels and horses ; and we are under the necessity 
 of deferring our departure. 
 
 Feb. 5. — The arrival of Captain Lacy from Con- 
 stantinople produces a further delay this morning, 
 an addition to our cattle being necessary. It was 
 eleven o'clock before we set out from Karam&n, 
 though we rose at two, and were ready to start at 
 four. At the distance of two or three miles from 
 the town we began to ascend, and entered the 
 mountainous region which extends all the way to 
 the coast, and which anciently formed part of the 
 division of Cilicia called Tracheiotis, or Cilicia 
 
104 
 
 Ch. 
 
 Tracheia. Our caravan now consists, besides saddle- 
 horses, of thirteen camels, one of which is laden 
 with provisions for the rest. On account of the 
 difficulty of the road, their burthen is light ; they 
 carry no more than the usual load of a horse, yet 
 with this easy weight they do not move quicker 
 than two miles and a half in the hour. They step 
 a yard at a time, and make about seventy-five steps 
 in a minute. The post-horses laden with baggage 
 in the former part of the route, moved at the rate 
 of three miles and a half an hour in the plains. 
 Entering the hills, we see rocks excavated into a 
 great number of chambers, anciently sepulchral, 
 but now inhabited by peasants and shepherds. As 
 we leave the plains the climate changes. At four 
 hours from Karaman, in the lower region of the 
 mountains, we pass a village where the snow begin- 
 ning to fall heavily, and there being no habitation 
 beyond for the next fifteen hours, our guides and 
 attendants are much inclined to remain for the 
 night ; but our delay at Karaman makes us impa- 
 tient to proceed, and we advance four hours further 
 to a khan in the wildest part of the mountain. 
 During the ascent, the road presented some mag- 
 nificent views of mountain-scenery. On the left 
 was a very lofty peaked summit, one of the highest 
 of the range of Taurus, probably between 6 and 
 7000 feet above the level of the sea. In the lower 
 regions of the mountain, we passed through woods 
 
Ch. 3. 
 
 105 
 
 consisting chiefly of oak, ilex, arbutus, lentisk, and 
 junipers of various species. As we ascend, we en- 
 ter the region of pines ; and through the latter part 
 of the route do not see a living creature ; though 
 we are told that the woods abound with deer, wild 
 boars, bears, and wolves. The khan where we take 
 up our lodging for the night is deserted, and partly 
 in ruins. As we resolve not to unload the camels, 
 they are seated on the outside of the khan in a ring 
 round the door. We break some branches from the 
 fir-trees, now heavily covered with snow, which grow 
 near the khan, then select a part of the building 
 where the roof is still entire, and make a fire on one 
 of the hearths which are ranged in a line along the 
 inside of the wall. Here we cook some meat which 
 we had brought with us, and then sleep round the 
 fire till midnight ; soon after which we send off our 
 camels in advance, and at six o'clock (Feb. 6.) pur- 
 sue our journey to Mout, distant eleven hours. — 
 The weather is again fine. The road lies over the 
 highest ridges of the mountains, where, amidst the 
 forests of pines, are several beautiful valleys and 
 small plains, forming with the surrounding rocks 
 and woods the most beautiful scenery. In several 
 places we trace the footsteps of the wild animals, 
 and observe spots where wild boars have been root- 
 ing up the earth. The soil is fertile in the inter- 
 vals of the woods, and the climate cannot be very 
 severe during the greater part of the year, there be- 
 
100 
 
 Ch. 3. 
 
 ing no permanent snow, now in the middle of win- 
 ter, upon any but the highest summits. There ap- 
 pears, however, no trace of cultivation, though there 
 is ample proof that these mountains were anciently 
 well inhabited ; for we meet with scarcely a rock 
 remarkable for its form or position, that is not 
 pierced with ancient catacombs. Many of these 
 rocks present at a small distance the exact appear- 
 ance of towers and castles. At a khan half way 
 between our last night's konak and Mout, we begin 
 to descend into the valley where this town is situ- 
 ated. The khan seems to stand upon the site of 
 an ancient temple, or other public building, there 
 being many fragments of ancient architecture in its 
 walls, and lying around it, and among the latter 
 a handsome Corinthian capital. Not far beyond 
 the khan we stop to examine a tall rock, which, 
 partly by its natural form, and partly by the effect 
 of art, represents a high tower. At the foot of it 
 is a niche with a semicircular top, the lower part 
 forming a coffin, cut out of the solid rock ; the lid 
 of this sarcophagus, which is a separate stone, lies 
 at the foot of the rock ; upon it is the figure of a 
 lion seated in the middle, with a boy at either end; 
 the boy facin 0- the lion has his foot upon the paw 
 of the animal. The sculpture is* much defaced, 
 and the heads have been purposely destroyed. We 
 find also many entire sarcophagi, with their co- 
 vers. They had all been opened; in some instances 
 
Cli. 3. 
 
 107 
 
 by throwing off the covers, in others by forcing a 
 hole through the sides. The usual ornament is the 
 caput bovis with festoons, but some have on one 
 side a defaced inscription on a tablet ; on either 
 side of this are ornaments varying on different sar- 
 cophagi. We observe on some, a garland on one 
 side of the tablet, and a crescent on the other; some 
 have emblems which seem to refer to the profession 
 of the deceased . These, and all the other monuments 
 of antiquity we have met with, excepting those of 
 Doganlu, are evidently of the time of the Romans. 
 Not far from the spot where we saw these remains 
 is the village of Mahile; not in view from our road; 
 it may, perhaps, have been the site of the ancient 
 town to which the sepulchres belonged. From 
 hence we begin to descend through woods of oak, 
 beech, and other timber-trees, growing amidst an 
 underwood of arbutus, andrachne, ilex, lentisk, and 
 many other of the shrubs cultivated with so much 
 care in our gardens. As we approach the valley, 
 we meet with the wild olive in considerable quan- 
 tities, and at length, after a very rugged descent, 
 we enter the valley of Mout. The town and its 
 dependent territory are governed by a pasha of two 
 tails: who in this retired and distant situation 
 seems to care little for the orders of the Porte, for 
 he laughs at our firmahn, and declares, what the 
 desolate appearance of the place tends to confirm, 
 that he has not a horse or a camel to furnish us 
 
108 
 
 Ch. 3. 
 
 with ; but he offers us forage for our cattle, and 
 lodging for ourselves. The latter is a ruinous hut 
 in the castle, where we can procure nothing but 
 some coarse barley- bread to add to the meat which 
 we brought with us. The walls of the castle are 
 surmounted with battlements, flanked by square 
 towers open to the interior. In the middle is a 
 round tower, cased, as it were, in another circular 
 wall, rising to half the height of the tower, and 
 leaving a narrow interval between them *. On one 
 side of the castle is a precipice, the foot of which 
 is washed by a river. 
 
 Mout stands on the site of an ancient city of 
 considerable extent and magnificence. No place 
 we have yet passed preserves so many remains of 
 its former importance, and none exhibits so melan- 
 choly a contrast of wretchedness in its actual con- 
 dition. Among the ruined mosques and baths, 
 which attest its former prosperity as a Turkish 
 town under the Karamanian kings, a few hovels 
 made of reeds and mud are sufficient to shelter its 
 present scanty population. Some of the people we 
 saw living under sheds, and in the caverns of the 
 rocks. Among these Turkish ruins and abodes of 
 misery may be traced the plan of the ancient Greek 
 city. Its chief streets and temples, and other pub- 
 lic buildings, may be clearly distinguished, and 
 
 * There is a similar keep at Launceston in Cornwall. 
 
Ch. 3. 
 
 109 
 
 long colonnades and porticoes, with the lower parts 
 of the columns in their original places. Pillars of 
 verd -antique, breccia, and other marbles, lie half- 
 buried in different parts, or support the remains of 
 ruined mosques and houses. Most of the inhabit- 
 ants whom we saw appeared half-naked, and half- 
 starved ; and this in a valley which promises the 
 greatest abundance and fertility, and which is cer- 
 tainly capable of supporting a large population. 
 Its scenery is of the greatest beauty : the variegated 
 pastures, groves, and streams are admirably con- 
 trasted with the majestic forms and dark forests of 
 the high mountains on either side. Every thing is 
 seen that can be desired to complete the pictu- 
 resque, unless it be an expanse of water. 
 
 Feb. 7 . — In leaving Mout this morning, we 
 particularly admire the fine effect of the castle with 
 its round and square towers, the precipices with the 
 river below them, the surrounding trees, and the 
 ancient colonnades; and, among the most remark- 
 able of the modern buildings, an old Turkish 
 mosque, with the tOmb of Karaman-Oglu, its 
 founder. On quitting the town, we pass along the 
 ancient road, which led through the cemetery. 
 Sarcophagi stand in long rows on either side; some 
 entire and in their original position, others thrown 
 down and broken ; the covers of all removed, and 
 in most instances lying beside them. The greater 
 part were adorned with the usual bull's head and 
 
110 
 
 Ch. 3. 
 
 festoons, and had a Greek inscription in a tablet 
 on one side. The letters were sufficiently pre- 
 served to indicate the date to be that of the Roman 
 Empire. We looked in vain for the name of the 
 city ; though, perhaps, it might have been found, 
 with more leisure than we could command. 
 
 The journey of this day is from Mout to Sheikh 
 Amur, reckoned 12 hours for walking horses, and 
 18 for camels; the proportion of their movements 
 being nearly as two to three. We had wished to 
 have sent off our camels in the middle of the night, 
 and to have followed in the morning, that we might 
 all have arrived at our journey's end at the same 
 time, but the Pasha s language and the wildness of 
 the country make us think it more advisable to 
 keep together. Another apprehension of more real 
 magnitude is suggested by our Tatar, that the dri- 
 vers, having been forced to go beyond their post, 
 would take some opportunity, unless we should 
 send a sufficient force along with them, of cutting 
 off the baggage, leaving it on the road, and perhaps 
 plundering it, and riding away with the horses and 
 camels. We had risen at three in the morning, 
 but could not with every exertion set out from 
 Mout before seven ; from which time we conti- 
 nued travelling, without halting, except occasion- 
 ally for a few minutes, till eleven at night ; having 
 during the last two hours preceded the camels, 
 which arrived at a little past twelve. For the first 
 
Ch. 3. 
 
 Ill 
 
 two or three hours, the road led us along the de- 
 lightful valley of Mout. A little beyond a small 
 village, around which are some rice-grounds, we 
 forded, by the help of guides belonging to the 
 place, a deep and rapid river, called the Kiiik-su 
 (Sky-blue river). The river of Mout is a branch of 
 this stream, and joins it further down the valley. 
 After passing over a level for a short distance, we 
 crossed another stream rather wider than the former, 
 the water of which runs perfectly clear over a bot- 
 tom of pebbles. This branch, the principal of 
 those which form the Calycadnus, is called the 
 Ermenek-su, from a town of that name near its 
 sources in the western part of the valley, where, we 
 are informed, considerable remains of antiquity, si- 
 milar to those of Mout, are to be seen. Others 
 are said to exist also lower down the valley, between 
 Mout and Selefke. The Calycadnus passes the 
 ruins of Seleuceia at Selefke, and joins the sea not 
 far below that place. Soon after crossing the Er- 
 men£k we began to ascend, and travelled for the 
 rest of the day along a horse-track amidst the fo- 
 rests and mountains. The oaks are not numerous, 
 and are chiefly confined to the lower regions, where 
 they are intermixed with arbutus, ilex, cornel, ju- 
 niper, lentisk, &c. In the upper parts scarcely any 
 trees are seen but pines of different species : most 
 of these are of a moderate size, but some which 
 we saw in the highest parts of the mountain were 
 
112 
 
 CL 3. 
 
 straight, large, tall, and fit for the masts of ships of 
 war. Great numbers had been destroyed for the 
 sake of the turpentine, by making an incision near 
 the foot of the tree and lighting a fire under it, 
 which has the effect of making the resin run more 
 freely. The summits in the centre of the ridge 
 which we crossed yesterday are higher than any 
 part of this range ; but these mountains are more 
 extensive, and of a still wilder and more rugged de- 
 scription. We are told, that in addition to the 
 wild animals found in the ridge to the north of 
 Mout, the forests of these mountains contain ti- 
 gers, or at least an animal to which the Turkish 
 name of Kaplan is given. The road sometimes 
 passed along the edge of precipices of immense 
 height ; at other times it was a rugged path, climb- 
 ing amidst broken rocks, where there seemed hardly 
 a footing for a mule ; and at others it was a de- 
 scent upon banks and slopes so slippery that it was 
 difficult even on foot to avoid falling. The camels, 
 whose footing is so very ill formed for such roads, 
 passed them nevertheless without any material ac- 
 cident ; they had no doubt been often accustomed 
 to carry the merchandize of the people of Karaman 
 across the mountains which separate that town from 
 the coast in every direction ; and it may be men- 
 tioned as a remarkable instance of the force of ha- 
 bit. We met with a very civil reception from the 
 Aga of Sheikh-Amur, who presented us with part 
 
Oh. 
 
 113 
 
 of a large wiid boar which his men had killed in 
 the woods. 
 
 This morning, (Feb. 8.) we are much gratified by 
 the delightful situation of the village perched upon 
 a rocky hill, in a small hollow, surrounded by an 
 amphitheatre of woody mountains. We proceed 
 from Sheikh-Amur to Gulnar, on the sea-side, a 
 distance of six hours for horses. At a short di- 
 stance from Sheikh- Amur we remark several com- 
 fortable cottages, surrounded with patches of culti- 
 vation, and inclosures of palisades. These detached 
 habitations, so uncommon in Turkey, indicate a 
 degree of security which gives us a favourable opi- 
 nion of the Caramanian mountaineers, whom in- 
 deed we have found very hospitable and inoffensive. 
 The road is through the most beautiful mountain- 
 scenery. A woody valley between high rocks, with 
 a rivulet of clear water trickling through it, con- 
 ducted us into a district more open and level, but 
 at the same time more singularly wild, than any we 
 had yet seen ; for over the whole of it high perpen- 
 dicular rocks, of the most grotesque and varied 
 forms, stood up among the trees, resembling the 
 representations of rocks on Chinese earthenware. 
 From hence we passed along the dry bed of a tor- 
 rent, which served as a road, between high calca- 
 reous precipices, rising close to us on either side. 
 As we advanced, these rocks were fringed with ivy, 
 saxifrage, &c, and mixed with small groves of 
 
 i 
 
114 
 
 Ch. 3. 
 
 evergreens: at the bottom, a clear stream ran along 
 a natural groove in the rock. The prospect soon 
 opened upon an extensive forest of oaks upon the 
 slope of the mountain, through which we at length 
 arrived at a pass between two summits, from whence 
 we beheld the sea with almost as much delight as the 
 soldiers of Xenophon, from the top of Mount The- 
 ches. The island of Cyprus appeared in the hori- 
 zon. We descended into the valley which borders 
 the coast, by a long and extremely steep and rugged 
 mountain-path, often intersected by rivulets run- 
 ning in ravines, shaded by plane-trees. The valley 
 presented a prospect very different from those we 
 had passed. Its meadows and cultivated fields 
 were in all the luxuriant vegetation and brilliant 
 colours of an advanced spring. Among them were 
 dispersed some cottages, with flat roofs and open 
 galleries, like those of the interior country. In 
 descending the mountain we followed the remains 
 of an ancient aqueduct, and, as we approached the 
 coast, traced it again leading towards the ruins 
 which occupy the cape forming the bay of Celen- 
 deris. The road through the valley led along the 
 beds of torrents adorned with oleander and agnus 
 castus, and through groves of myrtle, bay, and 
 other shrubs, produced only in the softer climate 
 of the coast. The ruins, the beautiful curve of the 
 bay, and the distant sea-view on the one side, and 
 on the other the rich valley, contrasted with the 
 
Ch. 3. 
 
 steep mountains and dark woods behind, form a 
 picture, the beauty of which was greatly heightened 
 by the brightness of the weather. 
 
 Gulnar is the name applied by the Turks, and 
 Kel^nderi by the Greeks, to a harbour and sur- 
 rounding district, in which, with the exception of the 
 dispersed cottages already mentioned, the only ha- 
 bitations are the tombs and subterraneous vaults of 
 the ancient Celenderis ; several of the latter were oc- 
 cupied by poor Turkish families. Our lodging was 
 a brick vault, with a stone pavement, which seemed 
 once to have been a cistern; a low arch divided it 
 into two equal parts. The outer was without a 
 roof, but the inner furnished a dry and comfortable 
 apartment. The remains of Celenderis are of va- 
 rious dates, but none of them, unless it be some 
 sepulchres excavated in the rock, appear to be older 
 than the early periods of the empire of Rome ; and 
 there are some even of a late date in that of Con- 
 stantinople. The town occupied all the space ad- 
 jacent to the inner part of the bay, together with 
 the whole of the projecting cape. The best pre- 
 served remains of antiquity are, a square tower 
 upon the extremity of the cape, and a monument 
 of white marble among the tombs ; the latter is 
 formed of four open arches, supported upon pilas- 
 ters of the Corinthian order, of not very finished 
 workmanship; and the whole is surmounted with a 
 pyramid, the apex of which has fallen. I observed 
 
 i 2 
 
110 
 
 Ch. 3. 
 
 some handsome tessellated pavements among the 
 ruins, and a great number of sarcophagi, together 
 with fragments of columns and wrought stones. 
 
 Celenderis, although it now preserves the re- 
 mains only of a Roman town, seems in more ancient 
 times to have been the principal place in this part 
 of the country. It gave name to a region called 
 Celenderitis, and coined those silver tetradrachms 
 which, supply some of the earliest and finest speci- 
 mens of the numismatic art. The antiquity of the 
 city is proved by the tradition of its having been 
 founded by Sandocus, son of Phaethon *, and like 
 the neighbouring Nagidus, it received a colony 
 from the island of Samus !• It is situated about 
 the centre of the coast of Cilicia Tracheia. 
 
 As this province extended to the boundaries of 
 Tarsus on ' the east, of Coracesium on the west, 
 and of Laranda on the north J, it seems to have 
 corresponded exactly to the Turkish province of 
 Itshili. The most fertile and the only extensive 
 level in Tracheiotis is the valley of the Calycadnus, 
 a district which was sometimes called Citis^. This 
 river, which rises to the north-west, passes by Er- 
 meneli, Sinanli, Mout, and Selefke, and joins the 
 sea not far below the last of these modern places. 
 Olbasa being the only city mentioned in the inland 
 
 * Apollodorus, 1. 3.c 4. t Pomp. Mela, 1. I.e. 13. 
 
 % Strabo, p. 668. 
 
 § Basil of Seleucia,it the Life of Thecla. / 
 
Cli. 3. 
 
 117 
 
 part of Citis by Ptolemy*, and Claudiopolis by 
 Ammianus f, it is not improbable that Olbasa 
 may have changed its name to Claudiopolis, when 
 a Roman colony was established there by the Em- 
 peror Claudius, and that its situation may have been 
 at Mout. The extent and description of the remains 
 of antiquity at that place are highly favourable to 
 the supposition of its being the site of a city which 
 flourished under the Roman Empire, at the same 
 time that the vicinity of this part of Taurus to the 
 plains which contain Derbe and Laranda is in agree- 
 ment with the evidence of Ptolemy^; as to the posi- 
 tion of Olbasa; for he states the district of Antio- 
 chiana to have consisted of the townships of Laranda, 
 Derbe, Olbasa, and a fourth town which he calls Mus- 
 banda. If the Roman colony at Mout was entirely 
 a new foundation, perhaps it will be found that Ol- 
 basa was at Mahile. Philadelphia and Diocsesareia, 
 which were also in this part of the country, may have 
 been the one at Ermenek, and the other at the ruins 
 already mentioned between Mout and Selefke. 
 
 Feb. 9. — Nothing can more strongly show the 
 present desolation of these fine countries, than the 
 fact, that as we descended the hills yesterday, to- 
 wards the coast, only one vessel was visible in the 
 
 * Ptolem. 1. 5. c. 8. 
 
 t Claudiopolis, quam dedux coloniam Claudius Caesar, 
 Ammian. 1. 15. c. 25. 
 + Ptolem. 1. 5. c.6. 
 
 m 
 
118 
 
 Ch. 3. 
 
 vast extent of sea then open to our view. It proved 
 to be the boat which was to carry us across to Cy- 
 prus, and in which we embarked this evening, 
 having delayed until that time, in the hope of pro- 
 fiting about midnight by the land-breeze from the 
 mountains, which seldom fails when the weather 
 is fair. 
 
 Feb. 10. — The land-breeze carries us half across 
 the channel, and then leaves us to be tossed all day 
 by the swell in a calm. 
 
 Feb. 11. — We land this forenoon at Tzerina, 
 called by the Italians Cerina, and by the Turks 
 Ghirne. It is a small town with a Venetian for- 
 tification, and a bad port on the northern coast of 
 Cyprus; it is reckoned by the Greek sailors to be 
 eighty miles from Kelenderi, but is probably less than 
 sixty English. The town is situated amidst plan- 
 tations of oranges, lemons, olives, dates, and other 
 fruit-trees; and all the uncultivated parts of the 
 plains around are covered with bay, myrtle, and 
 lentisk. On the west side of the town are exten- 
 sive quarries, among which are some catacombs, 
 the only remains of the ancient Ceryneia. The 
 harbour, bad and small as it is, must, upon a coast 
 verv deficient in maritime shelter, have alwavs en- 
 sured to the position a certain degree of importance. 
 The natural formation of the eastern part of the 
 north side of Cyprus is very singular: it consists 
 of a high rugged ridge of steep rocks, running in a 
 
Ch. 3. 
 
 119 
 
 straight line from east to west, which descend 
 abruptly on the south side into the great plain of 
 Lefkosia, and terminate to the north in a narrow 
 plain bordering the coast. Upon several of the 
 rocky summits of the ridge are castles which seem 
 almost inaccessible. The slope and maritime plain 
 at the foot of the rocks, on the north, possess the 
 finest soil and climate, with a plentiful supply of 
 water; it is one of the most beautiful and best 
 cultivated districts I have seen in Turkey. 
 
 Feb. 12. — Finding it impossible to procure horses 
 in time to enable us to reach the gates of Lefkosia 
 before sunset, at which time they are shut, we are 
 under the necessity of remaining at Tzerina to-day. 
 I visit a large ruined monastery, in a delightful si- 
 tuation, not far to the eastward of Tzerina, at no 
 great distance from the sea. It contains the re- 
 mains of a handsome Gothic chapel and hall, and 
 bears a great resemblance to the ruins of an En- 
 glish abbey *. 
 
 Feb. 13. — From Tzerina to Lefkosia, six hours. 
 At the back of Tzerina the road passes through a 
 natural opening in the great wall of rock I have 
 already described, and descends into the extensive 
 plain of Lefkosia. This is in some places rocky 
 and barren, and is little cultivated even where the 
 soil is good. Like most of the plains of Greece, 
 
 * It was founded by Hugh Lusignan the Third : for a descrip- 
 tion of it see the work of Mariti, who visited Cyprus in 1762. 
 
120 
 
 Ch. 3. 
 
 it is marshy in the winter and spring, and unhealthy 
 in the summer. On the west and south are the 
 mountains which occupy all that part of the island, 
 and the slopes of which produce the wines exported 
 in so large a quantity from Cyprus to all the 
 neighbouring coasts. In the centre of the plain is 
 Lefkosia (Aevxoaiec), called Nicosia by the Italians, 
 the capital of the island and of the province of 
 Itshili, of which Cyprus is considered a part, though 
 thegovernment is now always administered, like that 
 of the other Greek islands, by a deputy of theCapudan 
 Pasha. The ramparts of the Venetian fortifications 
 of Lefkosia exist in tolerable preservation; but the 
 ditch is filled up, and there is no appearance of 
 there ever having been a covert way. There are 
 thirteen bastions: the ramparts are lofty and solid, 
 with orillons and retired flanks. In the town is a 
 large church converted into a mosque, and still 
 bearing, like the great mosque at Constantinople, 
 the Greek name of St. Sophia: it is said to have 
 been built by Justinian ; but this may be doubted, 
 as Procopius, in his work on the edifices of that em- 
 peror, makes no mention of it; and its Gothic style 
 seems rather to mark it for the work of one of the 
 Frank kings of Cyprus. The flat roofs, trellised 
 windows, and light balconies of the better order of 
 houses, situated as they are in the midst of gardens 
 of oranges and lemons, give, together with the for- 
 tifications, a respectable and picturesque appear- 
 
Ch. 3. 
 
 121 
 
 ance to Lefkosia at a little distance, but, upon 
 entering it, the narrow dirty streets, and miserable 
 habitations of the lower classes, make a very diffe- 
 rent impression upon the traveller; and the sickly 
 countenances of the inhabitants sufficiently show 
 the unhealthiness of the climate. At Lefkosia we 
 were very hospitably entertained by an Armenian 
 merchant, of the name of Sarkis, who is an English 
 baratli, and under that protection has amassed a 
 considerable property, and lives in splendour: he 
 and his relations seem to occupy all the principal 
 offices of the island held by Christians, such as 
 those of interpreter and banker to the Motselim, 
 or deputy of the Capudan Pasha, of collector of 
 the contributions of the Christians, of head of the 
 Christian community, &c. 
 
 Feb. 14. — From Lefkosia to L&rnaka, eight 
 hours. The first half of the distance was a con- 
 tinuation of the same plain as before; the remain- 
 der lay over rugged hills of soft limestone, among 
 which we cross some long ridges of selenite. At 
 Larnaka we found Sir Sidney Smith with his small 
 squadron: he had just signed a treaty for the eva- 
 cuation of Egypt by the French. 
 
 Feb. 15. — We pass the day on board the Tigre, 
 where we find General Junot, afterwards Duke of 
 Abrantes, and Madame Junot and General Dupuy: 
 the latter, next to Kleber, the senior general of the 
 army of Egypt. They were taken by the Theseus, 
 
122 
 
 Ch. 3. 
 
 Captain Styles, in attempting to escape from Alex- 
 andria. 
 
 The town of Larnaka stands at the distance of a 
 mile from the shore, and has a quarter on the sea- 
 side, called 'AktKuig by the Greeks, and Marina by 
 the Italians. In the intermediate space are many 
 foundations of ancient walls, and other remains, 
 among the gardens and inclosures. The stones 
 are removed for building materials as quickly as 
 they are discovered ; but the great extent of these 
 vestiges, and the numerous antiquities which at 
 different times have been found here*, seem to 
 leave little doubt that here stood Citium, the 
 most ancient and important city in this part of 
 Cyprus. 
 
 March 2. — After having remained several days 
 at Larnaka and Lefkosia, we arrive to-day at Tze- 
 rina, on our return to Constantinople. The purity 
 of the air on the north coast of Cyprus is very sen- 
 sibly perceived, after leaving the interior plains and 
 the unhealthy situation of Larnaka. The Turkish 
 troops are already arriving in large bodies, on their 
 way home, in the faith that the war of Egypt is 
 concluded. 
 
 We set sail at eight this morning, in a three- 
 masted covered vessel, with latine sails, for Adalia. 
 A halo round the moon last night, and a turbid 
 atmosphere this morning, portend a change of 
 * See Mariti, Drummond, and Pococke. 
 
Ch. 3. 
 
 123 
 
 weather. At two or three miles from the port, 
 the land-wind which carried us out, falls and leaves 
 us becalmed, but a breeze soon springs up from 
 the eastward, and we steer N. by W. Having 
 come in sight of the coast, we soon perceive the 
 point of Anamiir, five or six leagues to leeward of 
 us. As we approach the shore, the wind coming 
 from the westward, and freshening, we are unable 
 to weather Cape Selenti, and are obliged to make 
 for a small cove, called Kalandra by the Turks, 
 and Kharadra (its ancient name) by the Greeks. 
 Here we are sheltered under the lee of a high cape, 
 and by the help of six cables, three attached to the 
 anchors, and three to the shore, we ride out a most 
 tempestuous night of wind, rain, and thunder. 
 
 March 8. — At ten this forenoon, the weather 
 having become serene, we land and spend the day 
 at some huts on the sea-shore, belonging to a vil- 
 lage on the hills which we do not see. Here the 
 coast, retiring from the cape under which we were 
 sheltered last night, forms a small bay; around it 
 is a fertile valley; at the head of which a torrent, 
 making its way from high mountains *, between 
 lofty precipices, seems to have given to this place 
 its Greek name of Kharadra. The retired valley, 
 with the bold coast, and the woods and precipices 
 at the back, is extremely beautiful. The only re- 
 
 * This is the Mount Andriclus which Strabo places above 
 Charadrus. 
 
124 
 
 Ch. 3. 
 
 mains of antiquity are part of a mole, just below 
 the huts on the sea-shore. On the side of the tor- 
 rent, a mile up the valley, is a deserted building, 
 which has every appearance of Venetian or Genoese 
 construction. Kharadra is reckoned by our boat- 
 men ninety miles from Tzerina, twenty or thirty 
 from Cape Selenti, and sixty from Alaya. It has 
 been already remarked that they reckon eighty 
 from Kelenderi to Tzerina, Comparing these com- 
 puted distances with the real distances on the map, 
 it appears that the Greek mile is about two-thirds 
 of the geographical. As the word (jbtkt was bor- 
 rowed from the Latin, the measure must originally 
 have been the same as the Roman mile, though it 
 is now shorter. It is, however, merely a computed 
 and not a measured distance, and I could never ob- 
 tain from the Greeks any accurate definition of it. 
 
 March 9. — We sail this forenoon at ten with a 
 fair breeze, which in two hours brings us abreast 
 of Cape Selenti. Here the wind slackens, and be- 
 comes variable, and sometimes contrary with fre- 
 quent showers and calms, so that we do not arrive 
 at Alaya till eight in the evening. During the first 
 half of the distance from Cape Selenti, we sail 
 under high cliffs and headlands, beyond which 
 are some very lofty mountains covered with snow. 
 Further on, the mountains retire more inland, and 
 leave upon the coast a fertile plain, which increases 
 in breadth as we approach Alaya. 
 
Ch. 3. 
 
 12i 
 
 March 10. — This town is situated upon a rocky 
 hill, jutting into the sea from the outer or western- 
 most angle of the plain. It resembles Gibraltar, the 
 hill being naturally fortified on one side (the western) 
 by perpendicular cliffs of vast height, and falling in 
 the opposite direction by a very steep slope to the 
 sea. The whole face of the hill is surrounded by 
 high solid walls* and towers, but the lower part 
 only is occupied by the town, which is about a 
 mile in circumference. The ground upon which 
 it stands is in some parts so steep that the houses 
 rise above one another in terraces, so that the flat 
 roofs of one row of houses serve for a street to 
 those above them. To the eastward of the town 
 there is an anchorage for large ships, and small 
 vessels are drawn up on the beach. In the middle 
 of the sea-front are some large vaulted structures, 
 on a level with the water's edge, intended for shel- 
 tering galleys; and constructed, perhaps, by the 
 Genoese. They now serve for building the vessels, 
 called by the Turks Ghirlanghitsh (swallow), which 
 are generally formed with three masts and a bolt- 
 sprit, all bearing triangular sails. Of these and 
 other vessels nearly resembling them, of from 
 twenty to sixty tons burthen, there are several be- 
 longing to Alaya. The place is said tohave taken 
 its name from its founder Alah-ed-din, son of Kai- 
 
 * In some parts of the modern wall are remains of Hellenic 
 masonry, of the kind often called Cyclopian. 
 
126 
 
 Ch. ;j. 
 
 kosru, who was sumamed Kaikobad, and who was 
 the tenth of the Seljukian dynasty, and the founder 
 of the Iconian race. It seems to have become the 
 principal maritime fortress and naval arsenal of 
 these sovereigns, and of their successors the princes 
 of Karaman. In the old maps Alaya is called 
 Castel Ubaldo, which may possibly have been the 
 name given to it by the Venetians or Genoese, 
 when in possession of this and other strong holds 
 upon the Caramanian coast, but there is no recol- 
 lection of the name in this country at present. In 
 the year 1471 the Prince of Karaman, then engaged 
 in a struggle for independence with Mahomet the 
 Second, was put in possession of Alaya, and several 
 other places, by the Venetians, who were then in al- 
 liance with him as well as with Usum Kassan King 
 of Persia against the Ottoman Emperor *. From 
 the town, the beach runs eastward, and thence forms 
 a long sweep to the south-east to Cape Selenti, which 
 is seen from Alaya. The level coast extends about 
 half that distance, and ends in an angle, where 
 some trees are seen round a village, at which I was 
 informed there are remains of an ancient city. 
 There are other ruins said to be of great extent at 
 a few hours to the northward of Alaya. 
 
 * Josaphat Barbaro, who was sent by the Venetian govern- 
 ment into Persia, and who published a description of his jour- 
 ney, assisted at the capture of Corycus and Seleuceia by a 
 squadron under Pietro Mocenigo. The work of Barbaro was 
 printed at the Aldine press in 1543. 
 
Ch. 3. 
 
 127 
 
 I was detained at Al&ya by illness ; and while 
 General Koehler, with his two remaining compa- 
 nions, (Mr. Carlyle having left them in Cyprus,) 
 pursued their journey overland to Constantinople, 
 I proceeded thither by sea, visiting the most 
 remarkable places on the coast, as well as the 
 adjacent islands of Rhodus, Cos, Patmus, Samus, 
 Chius, Lesbus, and Tenedus. Of those places which 
 I visited on the coast, and which deserve to be 
 more thoroughly described than they have yet been, 
 the most remarkable are, 1. The ruins of a large 
 city, with a noble theatre, at Kakava, in a fine 
 harbour, formed by a range of rocky islands. 
 2. The island called KuffrskogvZpv by the Greeks, 
 and Castel Rosso by the Italians. It is a flourish- 
 ing little Greek town, carrying on a considerable 
 commerce of timber and charcoal with Egypt. In 
 a plain in the interior of the island, I found the 
 remains of some ancient buildings, of Hellenic con- 
 struction. The importance of the situation must 
 at all times have attracted inhabitants. 3. Anti- 
 phellus, on the main land, opposite to Castel Rosso. 
 Here I found a small theatre nearly complete, the 
 remains of several public buildings and private 
 houses, together with catacombs, and a great num- 
 ber of sarcophagi, some of which are very large 
 and magnificent. The greater part have inscrip- 
 tions, few of which are legible. In two or three, 
 however, I read the name of the city Antiphellus. 
 
123 
 
 Ch.3. 
 
 4. Telmissus, at Mei, the port of Makri, at the 
 bottom of the gulf anciently called Glaucus. The 
 theatre, and the porticoes and sepulchral chambers, 
 excavated in the rocks at this place, are some of the 
 most remarkable remains of antiquity in Asia Minor. 
 
 5. The ruins of Assus, at Behrem or Beriam Kalesi, 
 opposite to M61ivo (the ancient Methymna), in 
 Mytilene. The ruins are extremely curious. There 
 is a theatre in very perfect preservation ; and the 
 remains of several temples lying in confused heaps 
 upon the ground; an inscription upon an architrave 
 belonging to one of these buildings shows that it 
 was dedicated to Augustus; but some figures in 
 low relief on another architrave, appear to be in a 
 much more ancient style of art, and they are sculp- 
 tured upon the hard granite of mount Ida, which 
 forms the materials of several of the buildings *. On 
 the western side of the city the remains of the walls 
 and towers, with a gate, are in complete preserva- 
 tion ; and without the walls is seen the cemetery, 
 with numerous sarcophagi still standing in their 
 places, and an ancient causeway leading through 
 them to the gate. Some of these sarcophagi are 
 
 * The following words are distinguished upon one of the 
 
 architraves IEPET2 TOT AlOX . . . KAISAP1 2EBA- 
 
 XT.QT. On another architrave is recorded the name of a per- 
 son who had bequeathed land for restoring the city, and from 
 the profits of which the temple had been rebuilt. 'Ex t^s 
 irgorotiov rwv dypov, cvv ditsXiitev slg eVHrxevfiv ryj; toXexe 
 KXio<7Tf,aro$ vioj ttqXevos, (fixret £g TeAAixcVroj-j litecmvjdvH. 
 
Ch. 3. 
 
 129 
 
 of gigantic dimensions. The whole gives, perhaps, 
 the most perfect idea of a Greek city that any 
 where exists. 
 
 I shall now subjoin a brief itinerary of the 
 route of General Koehler and his party from 
 Alaya to Shughut, where he fell into the same 
 road by which we came from Constantinople in 
 January. 
 
 March 1 1 . — From Alaya to Alara, eight com- 
 puted or caravan hours. The road leads along the 
 sea-shore, sometimes just above the sea-beach, 
 upon high woody banks, connected on the right 
 with the great range of mountains which lies pa- 
 rallel to the coast; at others, across narrow fertile 
 valleys, included between branches of the same 
 mountains. There are one or two fine harbours 
 formed by islands and projecting capes ; but the 
 coast for the most part is rocky and without shel- 
 ter, and after such a westerly gale as occurred last 
 night, is exposed to a tremendous surf. The equi- 
 noctial monsoon occurs very regularly upon these 
 coasts, and the Greek sailors think themselves suf- 
 ficiently prudent if they remain in port during the 
 first fortnight of March, old style. A'lara is two 
 or three miles from the sea, in a valley inclosed 
 between woody hills, and situated amidst gardens 
 and corn-fields, with neat fences. Near the village 
 is a remarkable conical hill, with the ruins of a 
 strong castle upon it in good preservation. It is 
 
 K 
 
130 Ch. 3. 
 
 said by the natives to have been built by the Sultan 
 Alah-ed-din, of Iconium. 
 
 March 12. — From A'lara to Hadji-Ali Khii, 
 eight hours. The road proceeded at a distance of 
 three or four miles from the sea, crossing several 
 fertile and well-cultivated valleys, and passing some 
 neat villages pleasantly situated. The valleys are 
 watered by streams coming from a range of lofty 
 mountains, appearing at a great distance on the 
 right. The largest of these rivers was a little be- 
 yond the fortified hill of A'lara, and was traversed 
 by a wooden bridge sixty feet in length. Another 
 large river occurred about three hours further. On 
 the west side of the gulf, a little to the left of the 
 direction of the route, appeared another range of 
 mountains *, still more lofty than those on the 
 right, and so distant that nothing but their outline 
 was visible. No remains of Grecian antiquity were 
 seen by the travellers either this day or yesterday. 
 
 March 13.— From Hadji-Ali Kiui to Menavgat, 
 four hours: weather rainy. Crossed the large ri- 
 ver of Menavgat at one hour short of the town, 
 which is situated in the midst of fields and gardens, 
 in a fertile district, watered by many rivulets. The 
 surrounding valleys are well cultivated and inha- 
 bited. Distant mountains appear to the north and 
 east; and to the N. W. is the steep range which 
 rises from that side of the gulf, and extends from 
 
 * Mount Solyma, then distant about sixty miles. 
 
Ch. 3. 
 
 131 
 
 Cape Khelidoni to Addlia. The price of a sheep 
 at Menavgat is eight piastres, equal to twelve shil- 
 lings sterling; four fowls for a piastre. 
 
 March 14. — Detained at Menavgat for want of 
 horses. 
 
 March 15. — From Menavgat to Dashashehr, six 
 hours. These two days were frosty, and perfectly 
 clear. The road passes at the same distance from 
 the sea as before, but winds for the most part 
 through deserted valleys, where the rich soil, and 
 the rains which had lately fallen, had made the 
 road very muddy. There was seen abundance 
 of the cattle which is brought for pasture in the 
 winter and spring from the mountainous districts 
 of the interior; at intervals are several villages, 
 with a scanty cultivation around them. Dashashehr 
 is situated upon some rocky hills, commanding a 
 view of the sea; and the cottages have gardens, 
 and orchards, and plantations of vines and fig- trees 
 attached to them. The great range of mountains is 
 seen at a distance of twenty or thirty miles to the 
 northward. The whole of this part of Pamphylia 
 seems to be a succession of fine valleys, separated 
 by ridges branching from the mountains, and each 
 watered by a stream of greater or less magnitude. 
 
 March 16. — From Dashashehr to Stavros, six 
 hours, through a vast plain of the richest pasture, 
 in which were great numbers of oxen and sheep. 
 At the end of two or three hours was a large river, 
 
 k '2 
 
132 
 
 Ch. 3. 
 
 crossed by a bridge built upon tbe ruins of a 
 magnificent ancient bridge, one arch of which, 
 still standing, forms a part of the modern work. 
 Several other smaller streams were passed in the 
 course of the day. In the last half of the road 
 the late rains had inundated the plains in several 
 places. The villages are numerous, and the po- 
 pulation consists entirely of Turks, who are hos- 
 pitable and inoffensive. 
 
 March 17. — From Stavros to Adalia, six hours. 
 The first half over the same kind of road, inun- 
 dated in many places. At the end of two hours 
 a large and rapid stream was passed by a ferry, a 
 little beyond which, appeared on the left the ruins 
 called by the Turks Eski-Kalesi, where are great 
 remains of walls and vaulted buildings. The road 
 passes from thence over a more elevated level, with 
 a dry soil, nearly as far as the walls of Adalia, at 
 one hour short of which it crosses a very deep and 
 rapid stream*, dividing itself into several branches, 
 
 * In passing by sea from Alaya to Castel Rosso, I was obliged 
 to follow the coast of the gulf of Adalia, the sailors being 
 afraid, in this season, of crossing directly to Cape Khelidoni. 
 This practice has been common among the Greek seamen of 
 every age, and was anciently expressed by the word xaTa.- 
 xoXiriguj. After having been detained three davs in the mouth 
 of a river, to the westward of Menavgat, 1 passed within sight 
 of the mouth of the river Duden, not far to the eastward of 
 Adalia, and I observed that it discharged itself into the sea by 
 a perpendicular fall over a high cliff. This singularity accounts 
 for the name Catarrhactes, anciently given to it. 
 
Ch. 3. 
 
 133 
 
 from which there are artificial derivations for irri- 
 gating the gardens and cultivated fields around 
 Adalia. Besides the two principal streams just 
 mentioned, the road from Stiivros crossed several 
 smaller, particularly one between those two, the 
 banks of which are thickly sheltered with trees, and 
 where is a solid ancient bridge, its summit level 
 with the banks. Adalia is a large and populous 
 town, which, though governed only by a Motsel- 
 lim, is considered as one of the best governments 
 in Anatolia, the district being large and fertile, and 
 the maritime commerce extensive. The town is 
 situated around a circular port; behind it, on a 
 height, is a castle, built with battlements and 
 square towers. In the suburbs, the houses are 
 dispersed amidst orange groves and gardens, and 
 thus occupy a large space of ground. Granite co- 
 lumns, and a great variety of fragments of ancient 
 sculpture, found about the place, attest its former 
 importance as a Greek city. Among other remains 
 are those of an aqueduct, extending the whole 
 length of the suburbs, but now quite ruined and 
 overgrown with bushes. These different objects, 
 with the sea, and the stupendous ridge of rugged 
 mountains on the west side of the gulf, render the 
 place extremely picturesque. 
 
 March 18. — Halt at Adalia. 
 
 March 19. — From Adalia to Bidjikli, seven 
 hours, due north. The road passes over a region 
 
34 
 
 Ch. a. 
 
 of rugged rocks, intersected with hollows full of 
 water. No cultivation was in sight ; to the left the 
 same kind of ground seemed to extend as far as the 
 ridge of rocky mountains, which borders the west 
 side of the gulf, and to the right as far as the 
 Duden, or river of Adalia. 
 
 March 20. — From Bidjikli to Karabunar Kiui, 
 nine hours: the first two hours over the same 
 rugged plain not far from the river. The two great 
 ranges on the west and north of the plains of Ada- 
 lia now approach each other, and at length are only 
 divided by the. passes, through which the river finds 
 its way. The road, however, leaves this gorge to 
 the right, and ascends the mountain by a paved 
 winding causeway, a work of great labour and in- 
 genuity. At the foot of it, in the plain, are the 
 ruins of a castle, and of many towers and gateways 
 of elegant architecture, with cornices, capitals, and 
 fluted columns lying upon the ground. Sarcophagi, 
 with their covers beside them, are seen in great 
 numbers, as well in the plain as for a considerable 
 distance up the side of the hill. Some of them 
 were of large size, many with inscriptions. At the 
 top of this formidable pass, which was anciently 
 commanded by the city, standing at the foot of it, 
 the road enters an elevated level surrounded with 
 mountains, and proceeds along a winding valley 
 amidst rocks and precipices, some of which, being 
 quite detached and perpendicular, appear at a di- 
 
Ch. 3. 
 
 135 
 
 stance like castles and towers. The konak this 
 evening was a tchiftlik (farm and country-house) 
 of the Motsellim of Adalia, situated near three 
 small villages on the banks of a rivulet, in a pure 
 air and most romantic situation. The usual 
 spring weather of these climates has now pre- 
 vailed for some days; showers, often accompa- 
 nied with thunder, occur in the afternoon and 
 in the early part of the night, and during the re- 
 mainder of the day the sky is perfectly clear and 
 serene. 
 
 March 2 1 . — From Karabunar Kiui toTshaltigtshi 
 Kiui, five hours and a half. One hour from the 
 place of departure is a khan, formed out of the 
 remains of an old building, upon which are angels 
 sculptured on either side of a large arched gate. 
 It appears to have been a church of the earliest 
 ages of Christianity. The route continues through 
 valleys of the same description as that of Kara- 
 bunar Kiiii, level and surrounded by barren rocks 
 and mountains. A neighbouring town called But- 
 shuklu, is said to contain a thousand houses, and 
 has the reputation of refusing quarters to strangers, 
 especially to couriers and persons travelling under 
 the orders of the Porte. This district, however, as 
 has already been remarked in regard to other places 
 having the character of rebellious, exhibits several 
 marks of superior industry, and a better kind of 
 public economy; good roads and bridges are seen, 
 
136 
 
 Ch. 3. 
 
 and large clean pieces of wheat surrounded with 
 ditches or fences. In the mountain not far from But- 
 shuklu there are said to be ruins of ancient build- 
 ings with columns, and sculptured and inscribed 
 stones. A hill which bounds the district of But- 
 shuklu to the north limits the command of the Mot- 
 sellim of Adalia. At the foot of this hill is a khan, 
 which appears to have been constructed from the 
 ruins of some large ancient building ; fragments 
 of architecture, and ruins of walls, are seen on 
 every side of it. The hill is rugged and exten- 
 sive, and has on the north side a level much 
 lower than all those lying between it and Adalia. 
 A river flows through this plain, and there are 
 many villages, among which is that of Tshaltigtshi. 
 The people appeared simple and hospitable, and 
 welcomed the travellers by presents of fruit and 
 flowers, which they threw down at their feet, and 
 then departed without saying a word. The villages 
 are surrounded with fruit-trees, but no oranges, 
 nor lemons, nor olives are seen among them ; and 
 the season here is a month or six weeks behind that 
 of Adalia. Wheel-carriages are used : the wheels 
 being either solid trucks formed of one piece of 
 wood, or of three pieces joined together, and shod 
 with an iron plate turned up at the edges, and thus 
 fixed on without any nails. They had also iron axles, 
 and a box for them to turn in, exhibiting a neatness 
 of workmanship seldom seen in Turkey. 
 
Ch. 3. 
 
 137 
 
 March 22. — From Tchaltigtshi to Burdur, seven 
 hours and a half; for the first two hours along the 
 valley; then up a high steep mountain, not a mere 
 rock, like the others which the travellers had passed, 
 but having trees, and a soil fit for any vegetation. 
 They passed an insulated valley, where was a rivulet 
 which disappeared in a cavity at the foot of a moun- 
 tain. The weather was very cold, and four inches 
 of snow lay upon the ground at no great distance 
 above them. After a narrow craggy pass, they 
 entered an open country, which, unlike the level 
 valleys to the southward, was diversified with un- 
 dulations and slopes. At two hours short of Bur- 
 dur, they came into a valley full of rocks, thrown 
 about in the wildest manner : some of these were 
 of a kind which looked like bundles of rushes, in- 
 crusted with cement, and petrified into a solid 
 mass : in some places the scene around had the 
 appearance of a succession of enormous sand-pits. 
 They passed several water-mills, and saw nothing 
 of the town or lake of Burdur until they were close 
 upon it. The houses are flat-roofed ; the town is 
 large, and comparatively well paved, and there is 
 some appearance of wealth and industry in the 
 streets. Tanning and dyeing of leather, weaving 
 and bleaching of linen, seemed to be the chief oc- 
 cupations. Streams of clear water flow through 
 most of the streets. The country around produces 
 good butter. The salt lake of Burdur begins at a 
 
138 
 
 Ch. 3. 
 
 very short distance from the town, and stretches to 
 the N. and N.W., forming a beautiful picture with 
 its winding shores, its shrubby or bare and rocky 
 capes, and the cultivated lands, numerous villages, 
 and woody hills around it. 
 
 March 23. — Detained at Burdur by a violent 
 southerly gale and heavy rain. 
 
 March '24. — From Burdur to Ketsiburlu, six 
 hours. The road along the edge of the lake hav- 
 ing been rendered difficult by the rains, they took 
 another nearer the hills. They passed a good deal 
 of arable land, and many villages with abundance of 
 fruit-trees and vineyards. The walnut-trees grow to 
 a great size: on the 22nd they had seen poplars also 
 of not less than six and eight feet in diameter. 
 
 March 25. — From Ketsiburlu to Dombai-ovasi 
 (the valley of Dombai) five hours: the wind north : 
 a sharp frost, and the hills around covered with 
 snow : the road very good, leading at first through 
 rocky hills, but afterwards through a rich valley, 
 where are many villages ; Dombai is the chief and 
 one of the largest. Here they received much ci- 
 vility from the Motsellim, whose design in it was 
 to get their interest at the Porte in his endeavours 
 to obtain the Pashalik of Isbarta, a considerable 
 town at no great distance to the eastward. At 
 Dombai they were told of the ruins of an ancient 
 town very near, with the remains of columns, in- 
 scribed stones, and statues. 
 
Ch. 3. 
 
 39 
 
 March 26. — From Dombai to Sandukli on the 
 river Mendere, the distance seven hours, through 
 a fine country variegated with gentle undulations, 
 but bare of wood, except upon the mountains, 
 which are at no great distance on either side. 
 There were several small villages and a good deal 
 of arable land, but the season was still six weeks 
 behind that of the coast: the cold severe with much 
 snow. 
 
 March 27. — From Sandukli to Sitshanli, seven 
 hours : a north wind, with ice an inch thick : the 
 road was for the most part hilly and stony, but in 
 some places there were villages and cultivated lands. 
 Sitshanli is in a fertile valley, with many villages 
 around. 
 
 March 28. — From Sitshanli to Altun-Tash, nine 
 hours : thecountry is of an undulated form with little 
 wood. They observed several villages, and in many 
 places scattered fragments of ancient buildings, 
 but in no one spot any thing that indicated the site 
 of a large town. At Altiin-Tash the snow was 
 lying on the ground. The place takes its name 
 (signifying golden stone) from some rocks of a 
 yellow colour in the neighbourhood. It stands on 
 the left bank of the river Pursek, the ancient Thym- 
 brius, or Thymbres, a branch of the Sangarius. 
 Here were 200 horsemen of the Pasha of Kutaya, 
 who had been reducing a rebellious chieftain, and 
 were in the act of driving away his flocks. 
 
140 
 
 Ch. 3. 
 
 March 29. — From Altun-Tash to Kutaya, nine 
 hours : at first over a swampy plain, which had 
 been inundated by the rains and the melting of the 
 snow upon the hills, then across the Ptirsek, which 
 between this plaL*e and Kutaya forms an S: a high 
 mountain, at the foot of which Kutaya is situated, 
 filling up the northern part of the S. After crossing 
 the Pursek at Altun-Tash, they passed over gentle 
 hills and a pleasant country. Nearly midway were a 
 fountain, the ruins of a mosque, and an ancient Greek 
 church. A good gravel road led in a winding direc- 
 tion through a delightful scene of lawns of the finest 
 herbage, adorned with detached trees and clumps 
 of evergreen, disposed in a manner which art could 
 not have improved. From hence, after passing a 
 tract of wild cliffs and rocks, which formed a re- 
 markable contrast to the former, they descended a 
 steep hill to the Pursek, here a very deep and 
 rapid river. Having crossed it by a bridge, and 
 ascended a part of the mountain of Kutaya, they 
 proceeded along a dangerous path on the edge of 
 an immense precipice: the mountain, with its snow- 
 topped summit, rising to a great height on the left, 
 and on the right the Pursek taking a large sweep 
 round the base of the mountain. Thus they made 
 almost half the circuit of it before they arrived at 
 Kutaya. This is a large town with an ancient 
 castle, which stands upon a projecting point of 
 the hill rising above the town. Being the usual 
 
Ch. 3; 141 
 
 residence of the Beglerbeg of Anatolia, Kutdya 
 may in some measure be considered the capital of 
 the province, though much inferior in size to 
 Smyrna, Tokat, and A'ngura. The Pasha being 
 absent with the army in Syria, the place was go- 
 verned by a Motsellim, who furnished the travellers 
 with a tchaous to accompany them to Constanti- 
 nople, and orders for horses and other necessaries. 
 Ancient coins and gems may be collected in the 
 bazars of Kutaya in considerable numbers. 
 
 March 30. — Halt at Kutaya. 
 
 March 31. — From Kutaya to In-6ghi, twelve 
 hours: the weather fine, and the road for the most 
 part good. They soon crossed the Pursek, and 
 passed at first over a flat swampy road, inundated 
 by floods from the mountains; they then ascended 
 a hill, upon the top of which the rocks appeared to 
 be of a hard and handsome kind of breccia. Thus 
 they proceeded nearly half the day's journey: the 
 scenery sometimes very dreary and barren ; at others 
 grand and picturesque; but the country no where 
 cultivated. They then descended a steep slope to 
 the Pursek, which they now crossed for the second 
 time since they had left Kutaya, and proceeded 
 for some distance along its left bank with high 
 steep cliffs on each side; among these, and along 
 the river, grow a variety of trees and shrubs, par- 
 ticularly evergreens. In one part conical and 
 sharp-pointed rocks arise to a great height, re- 
 
142 Gh. 3. 
 
 sembling in some places the spires and ornamented 
 sides of Gothic churches. Here the ancients had 
 excavated crypts, niches, and sepulchral chambers 
 with doors and windows. After the pass the valley 
 opens into fine meadows, with the river winding 
 through the middle. Soon afterwards the road 
 quits this valley and turns to the right up an- 
 other, watered by a small branch of the same 
 river; the route then passes through a tract of 
 country where it winds amidst clumps of ever- 
 greens beautifully disposed by nature upon a fine 
 turf, with hills, valleys, and lawns, as in an English 
 park. Here they met a company of Turks coursing 
 with their greyhounds, who made them a present 
 of a hare. They then crossed a ridge, the absolute 
 height of which (though apparently inconsiderable, 
 when compared with the adjacent valleys) was in- 
 dicated by large patches of snow lying upon the 
 ground. The country consists of fine pasture-lands, 
 mixed with good timber-trees. On a long descent 
 from this place they looked down upon an exten- 
 sive and well cultivated plain, and at the foot of 
 the descent they arrived at In-6ghi, a large village 
 situated on the edge of the plains under the vast 
 precipices of a mountain of bare rock, excavated 
 naturally into caverns, and artificially into sepul- 
 chral chambers. Some of those in the upper 
 part of the heights are the abode of eagles, which 
 are seen soaring around them in great numbers. 
 
Ch. 3. 
 
 143 
 
 One enormous cavern is shut up in front by 
 a wall with battlements and towers, and seems 
 once to have served as a sort of citadel to the 
 town. 
 
 April 1 . — From In-6ghi to Shughut, five hours: 
 the weather very clear. The road passes over plea- 
 sant hills and dales, where appears a considerable 
 degree of cultivation. The country is interspersed 
 with fine oaks and beeches, and in one place there 
 is a large forest. Some symptoms of spring have 
 begun to appear, but the season is not yet so forward 
 as it was upon the south coast in the beginning of 
 February. Not a tree has begun to bud : the corn 
 is but just above the ground; and primroses, vio- 
 lets, and crocuses, are the only flowers to be seen. 
 At Shughut the appearance was more wintry than 
 when we passed in January; and the broad sum- 
 mit of Olympus was capped with snow to a much 
 greater extent. 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 OF THE ANCIENT PLACES ON THE ROAD FROM 
 ADALIA TO SHUGHUT, INCLUDING REMARKS 
 ON THE COMPARATIVE GEOGRAPHY OF THE 
 ADJACENT COUNTRY. 
 
 Ancient Authorities — Cotyaeium — Termessus — Lake Ascania — 
 Milyas — Cibyra — Selge — Petnelissus — Cretopolis — Lyrbe — 
 Sagalassus — Cremna — Ly since — Sinda — Isionda — Tuba, 
 Tiaba — Mender-su at Sandukli the ancient Obrimas — Ancient 
 Sites on the four Roads of the Table, which cross the modern 
 Route from Addlia to Shughut — Themisonium — Cormasa — 
 Celance or Apameia — Eumeneia — Apollonia — Euphorbium — 
 Conni — Eucarpia — Acmonia — Cadi — Azani — Synaus. 
 
 I shall now submit to the reader some observa- 
 tions on the ancient geography of the route of 
 General Koehler and his party from Adalia to 
 Shughut. 
 
 This road traverses a part of Asia Minor upon 
 which ancient history throws little light. The text 
 of Strabo is almost contradictory in regard to some 
 of the principal places which lay near the road ; 
 and the itineraries supply no routes in this direc- 
 tion, though there are five in the Peutinger 
 Table which intersect it. 
 
 The march of Alexander from Pamphylia to Gor- 
 dium in Phrygia, as related by Arrian ; and the de- 
 scription by Li vy of the progress of the Consul Cneius 
 
Ch. 4. 
 
 145 
 
 Manlius in his Expedition from Cibyra into Pam- 
 phylia and from thence by Sagalassus to Syn- 
 nada and into Galatia, are the only historical do- 
 cuments. As the passage of Livy is very detailed 
 and was borrowed from Polybius*, its information 
 deserves more confidence than is usually due to that 
 of a Latin author in regard to Grecian geography; 
 and it may hereafter be extremely useful, when the 
 ancient ruins, with which Pisidia and the adjacent 
 districts are known to abound, shall have been 
 more explored. In the present state of our know- 
 ledge of the country, it supplies not much positive 
 information. 
 
 The only point in General Koehler's route which 
 can be considered absolutely certain is Cotyaeium. 
 The position of that city in Phrygia Epictetus, not 
 far from Nacoleia, andDorylseumt, agrees perfectly 
 with that of Kuttiya, the resemblance of which name 
 to the Greek Korudisiou is still more striking when 
 we observe the identity of accent. 
 
 There are two other places also in General 
 Koehler's route, upon the ancient names of which 
 we cannot entertain much doubt. These are Ter- 
 messus and the lake Ascania. The latter corre- 
 
 * This is evident upon comparing it with the fragments of the 
 22d book of Polybius, as well as from the confession of Livy 
 himself in several places. 
 
 t Tr ; s $ Evrrirrirov Q^vylac 'Agavol ts slcri xa.) NaxoXsia, 
 xa\ Kortxsiov xa) Mtfasiov xa.) AopuXatov iroXsi; xx) Ka.hr rovg 
 & Kdoov; svm fys Mvtrlas <parlv. Strabo, p. 576. 
 
 L 
 
146 
 
 Ch. 4. 
 
 sponds with the salt lake of Burdur ; for Arrian 
 relates that Alexander, after having reduced Sagalas- 
 sus and some other strong places in Pisidia, passed 
 by the lake Ascania in his way to Celsenee (afterwards 
 Apameia), and that the water of this lake was so 
 salt, that the inhabitants had no need of sea salt 
 for domestic purposes *. The same fact is men- 
 tioned by the anonymous geographer of Ravenna. 
 Perhaps this is the lake Ascanius, of which Pliny 
 remarks, that the upper surface of the water was 
 fresh, while the lower was nitrous |- 
 
 The great ruins which General Koehler passed 
 through at the ascent of the mountains, on the 
 second day of his departure from Adalia, seem to 
 be those of Termessus, which, next to Selge, was 
 the largest of the Pisidian cities, and was situated at 
 the passes of mount Solyma, leading from the ma- 
 ritime plains through Milyas to the lake Ascania^:, 
 
 * Arrian, 1. 1. c. 29. t Plin. Hist. Nat. 1. 31. c. 10. 
 
 X Arrian ubi supra. 
 
 MiXvac <J' Jotjv rj drtb rcov xardTeppyfo-ov crfsvouv y.a) frj$ sl$ 
 to evrbg rovTavpou vitepSsasu); 6Y au'rwv Iiri '2lv$a.,'ifa,pa.TElvou<ra 
 opeivrj ^XP l 2ayaAa<r<rou xa) f%$ 'Art apt: wv ^uipocs- Strabo, 
 p. 631. 
 
 'ttikp-Kiirou $ a.urijg (scil. Phaselidis) rd SoAu/xa opo; hx\ 
 Te/jpjcrcrof, ni<ri8ixrj TfoXig, tTtiKsipivrj rote crrsvols, oY iliv oirep- 
 fxT.'/ Irrtiv s!j rrjv MiXvdSa. Strabo, p. 606. 
 
 In Arrian the names are Salagassus and Telmissus, but im- 
 properly, as the coins of the two cities show. Stephanus says 
 there was a greater and lesser Termissus in Pisidia, which is 
 confirmed by the coins with the legend, Teppr,<r<rswv f&v ]«.£<- 
 tovtuv. (Eckhel and Mionnet in Pisidia.) 
 
Ch. 4. 
 
 147 
 
 and from thence to Celaense. Milyas was the coun- 
 try of the more ancient Solymi * ; and being also 
 described by Strabo as the mountainous district, 
 which extended from the passes of Termessus to 
 the district of Apameia, it answers exactly to the 
 elevated region which General Koehler traversed 
 after he had mounted the pass which I have sup- 
 posed the Termessian. 
 
 Between Milyas and the valley of the Meander 
 were Cabalis and the Cibyratis +. The latter district, 
 which long flourished under the monarchy of a 
 family named Moagetes J, was a tetrapolis; the four 
 cities were, Cibyra, which had two votes in the ge- 
 neral council, (Enoanda, Balbura, and Bubon. The 
 Cibyratis is clearly indicated by Strabo to have 
 been situated between Lycia and the parts of the 
 valley of the Maeander about Nysa and Antiocheia§ ; 
 in the height of its prosperity, its dependencies ex- 
 tended from Pisidia and Milyas to Lycia and Peraea 
 
 * Strabo, p. 573, G30. 
 
 t . ... fa pEXP 1 Kapovpwv uprqtott. Ta $' l^rfi scrn rd. [x,h itpog 
 86<riv, -fj rujy 'Avrtop^swy TtoXtg rwv sir) MaidvSpui, rr^ Kapia$ rjSrj' 
 ra. 8s TTpos votov y Ki€upd k<rriv tj y.sydXr), xa.) y\ Hi/Set xal ■>] Ka- 
 tctk)g, psy^p) -rod Tavpou xa) ?r)$ Avxlx.$. Strabo, p. 630. 
 
 .... TYj$ NvtratSos, rj ecrr* yj^pa. Kara. to. rou MaiavSpou itepoLv 
 ^XP l rfs KfivpzfiSos koli rfjs KaSccklfog. Strabo, p. 629. 
 
 % Strabo, p. G31. Liv. 1. 38. c. 14. 
 
 § Compare the preceding passages of Strabo, pp. G29, G30, 
 with those of pp. Go 1, GG5, where he says that a branch of Taurus 
 occupied all Lycia, from the Cibyratis to Peraea of the Rhodii, and 
 that Tlos a Lycian city stood near the pass leading to Cibyra. 
 
 l2 
 
148 
 
 Ch. 4. 
 
 of the Rhodii *. Balbura ar.d Bubon having been 
 given to Lycia by Murena, on the reduction of the 
 last Moagetes, and QEnoanda having been included 
 in the same province, in the arrangement of Con- 
 stat! tine f, while Cibyra was ascribed to Caria, it 
 may be presumed that Cibyra lay to the northward 
 of the three other cities. This in some measure 
 agrees with Ptolemy, who places Bubon, QEnoanda, 
 and Balbura in a district of Lycia called Carbalia; 
 under this name, as a part of Pamphylia, he ranges 
 also Termessus, Cretopolis, and six other towns ; 
 Cibyra he places in Phrygia. Such are the data 
 afforded by ancient history, to assist the traveller 
 in discovering the sites of the four cities of the 
 Cibyratis. 
 
 Polybius ;f, in his account of the proceedings of 
 Achaeus, king of the provinces within Taurus, 
 against Antiochus the Great §, has furnished a few 
 data as to the situation of some of the towns on 
 the frontiers of Pisidia and Pamphylia. In relating 
 the operations of Garsyeris, commander of the army 
 of Achaeus, whose ostensible object was to assist the 
 people of Pednelissus against the Selgenses, Poly- 
 bius appears to apply the name of Climax, to all 
 the ridge of the mountains Solyma, from the sum- 
 mit called Olympus on the shore of the Gulf of 
 Attaleia, to the great heights of Taurus. Garsyeris 
 
 * Strabo, p. 631. 
 { Polyb. 1. 5. c. 72. 
 
 + Hieroel. Synecd. 
 
 § In the year before Christ 219. 
 
Ch. 4. 
 
 149 
 
 was at first unable to penetrate through the passes 
 of Mount Climax, leading to Pednelissus, because 
 they were occupied by the Selgenses, and particu- 
 larly the pass of Saporda— a place not mentioned 
 by any other author. We know from Strabo *, that 
 Pednelissus was situated inland from Aspendus ; 
 and it has been seen that the principal pass of the 
 Solyma was commanded by the city of Termessus: 
 Saporda, therefore, may perhaps have stood at 
 another pass which leads over the ridge of Solyma 
 from Adalia in a W. N.W. direction to Dauas and 
 Denizli. Cretopolis in Milyas, where Garsyeris 
 encamped before he attempted the passes, is shown 
 from this circumstance to have been on the west- 
 ern side of Mount Climax : and the Etennenses, 
 who, together with the Aspendii, joined the party 
 of Achasus against Selge, are stated by the his- 
 ' torian to have inhabited the mountains above that 
 city, — being thus obviously the same people as the 
 Catennenses of Strabo f ; who describes them as 
 bordering on Selge and the Homonadenses. 
 
 Lyrbe, which, as well as Etenna, was still a bi- 
 shopric in the ninth century* under the metropoli- 
 
 * Strabo, p. 667. 
 
 t • • • ol "EaXysli elifsp s\t)v afyoXoyurcLTQi twv Iha-iSwv. To 
 pay ouv Ttxkov auTciuv pspog rd$ dxgwpelas TouTavpov xarkyti' fivhf 
 8e xa,) vnlp liSr^ xou 'AinravSov, IlapfyvXixuv iroXswv, xars^ova-i 
 yzooXotpa, %wp/a, eKaiotpvra itdvta: rd £' vitsp rovrwv 6pet>d r)$r], 
 KaTsvv£7$, o^opoi 'ZsXysucrt xou 'Qpw&fevtri' 'Zccya\a,<r<re7$ #' lit) 
 rd bvtos rd itpbc tr, MiXvxh. Strabo, p. 569. 
 
 | Notit, Episc. Graec. 
 
1,50 
 
 Ch. 4. 
 
 tan of Side, seems, from some verses of Dionysius 
 of Charax *, to have stood between Termessus and 
 Selge, a little above the maritime plains, among 
 hills once covered with olives, but now affording 
 little but pasture. 
 
 There is great difficulty in reconciling the autho- 
 rity of Arrian with that of Strabo in regard to the 
 site of Sagalassus, otherwise called Selgessusf, one 
 of the most important cities and most fertile districts 
 in Pisidia J; and which could not have been far from 
 the route of General Koehler. Arrian, in a passage 
 already referred to, seems to place it to the south of 
 Burdur^ ; thus far agreeing with Strabo, who, after 
 describing the cities on the southern side of Mount 
 Taurus, just noticed, remarks that Sagalassus was 
 within, or on the northern side of Taurus, near 
 Milyas||, which district, as he tells us in another 
 place, extended northward as far as those of Saga- 
 lassus and Apameia ^f . 
 
 Strabo further informs us **, that Sagalassus was 
 
 * To% 6" siti nuriSswv Xmapov Ttkfav, fyi iroXrjeg 
 
 Tspfuo-cros Avpgy) re xou y kit oXlff aa.ro Xab$ 
 
 Tlpiv ifor''ApvxXa,iwv, fj.sya,Xuivvpos kv ^ov) I.kXyi). 
 
 Dionys. Perieg. v. 858. 
 t Strabo, p. 569. 
 
 J Artemidorus ap. Strabon. p. 5/0. Liv. 1.38. c. 15. Arrian, 
 1. 1. c. 28. 
 
 § Arrian, 1. 1 . c. 29. || See Note f, p. 149. 
 
 U See Note \» p. HG. 
 
 ** 'Apvvras ttoXXgc %wp\a, V^tiXev diropdyfa •jfporepov 
 
 Wo>,, ujv xa) Kpyiwa. to $1 ZaviaXioy wT Jye^ei/jijo-e /3/a itpovd- 
 
Ch. 4. 
 
 151 
 
 one day's journey from Apameia ; whereas Arrian 
 relates that Alexander was five days in marching 
 from Sagalassus to CeUenas, passing by the lake 
 Ascania. 
 
 Nothing but an examination of this country 
 by an intelligent traveller can clear up this diffi- 
 culty, or explain the passage of Strabo cited in 
 the note below ; and for this purpose the ruins 
 seen by Paul Lucas in this country, and the 
 others heard of by General Koehler, probably 
 contain ample materials. The remarkable site 
 which gave name to Cremna * could hardly elude 
 research; and it is the more likely to preserve 
 some remains of antiquity, as having been a Ro- 
 man colony. 
 
 If by the lake, mentioned in the march of 
 Manlius, Polybius, from whom Livy has taken all 
 this part of his history, meant the lake of Burdur, 
 Lysinoe may have occupied the site of Burdur ; or 
 more probably some situation near the opposite end 
 of the lake, where the future traveller may perhaps 
 find the river Lyses, from which Lysinoe seems to 
 
 yeo-Qcci, petard xeipevov r^g ts Kpr^vrj; kou *Za.yct\a<r<rov. T^v 
 psv oov Kpyjixva.y aitoixoi 'Povpalwv e^owi. '2ayxXa<r<rb$ F e<rr)v 
 virb r<Z a.uTwY t ysy.6vi fuy'PuifAaluy, iip* w xou rj 'Apuvrou (3a<ri- 
 Aeia ffaVa' foi^e/ 8" 'Atfa/xe/a* rjpipas oSbv, xa.rd€<z<nv e^ov<ra 
 c-xsUv fi xou Tpidaovra crfattwy dirb tw ipvfiaTog- xa,\ov<ri ? 
 aJrijv xai ^iXyycrcrov . Strabo, p. 569. 
 
 Kpyjj^vav iv ditoy.prjif.vuj rt Ksi^eyy]v xai KXtd 
 
 pepos yxpd$pa.is (luQurdrcus ^? W ^W- -Zosim. !. 1 . c. 69. 
 
152 
 
 Ch. 4. 
 
 have taken its name. And this might also lead to 
 the discovery of the lake Caralitis and Sinda*. 
 
 It is evident from the passage of Livy just cited, 
 that Sinda and Isionda were different places, and 
 not the same place as has sometimes been supposed. 
 Livy seems to agree with Strabo in placing Sinda 
 to the northward of Cibyra at the extremity of Pi- 
 sidia bordering on Caria and Fhrygia; whereas 
 
 * " A Cibyra per agros Sindensium exercitus ductus, trans- 
 gressusque Caularem amncm, posuit castra. Postero die est 
 praeter Caralitin paludem agmen ductum ; ad Mandropolim 
 manseruntj inde progredientibus ad Lagon, proximam urbem 
 metu incolae fugerunt; inde ab Lysis fluminis fonte, postero die 
 ad Cobulatum (ap. Polyb. KoAofarov) amnem progressi. Ter- 
 messenses eo tempore Isiondensium arcem, urbe capta, oppug- 
 nabant .... Volenti consuli causa in Pamphyliam divertendi 
 oblata est ; adveniens obsidione Isiondenses exemit. Termesso 
 pacem dedit, 50 talentis argenti acceptis : item Aspendiis caete- 
 risque Pamphyliae populis. Ex Pamphylia rediens ad fluvium 
 Taurum primo die, postero ad Xylinen comen posuit castra. 
 Profcctus inde continentibus itineribus ad Cormasa (ap. Polyb. 
 Kvppacrz) urbem pervenit. Darsaproxima urbs erat; earn . . . 
 desertam . . . invenit. Progredienti praeter paludes (ap. Polyb. 
 TTjV xlavrjv) legati abLysinoe dedentes urbem venerunt. Deinde 
 in agrum Sagalassenum, uberem fertilemque omni gcnere fru- 
 gum, ventum est. Colunt Pisidae, longe optimi bello regionis 
 hujus : quum ea res animos facit, turn agri fcecunditas, et mul- 
 
 titudo bominum, et situs inter paucas munitae urbis 
 
 Progressua inde ad Qbrimse fontes, ad vicum, quern Aporidos 
 comen vocant, posuit castra. Eo Seleucus ab Apamea postero 
 die venit. ./Egros inde et inutilia impedimenta quum Apameam 
 dimisisset, ducibus itinerum ab Seleuco acceptis, profectus eo 
 die in Metropolitanum eampuih, postero die Dinias Phrygix 
 processit, Inde Synnada," &c. Liv. 1. 38. c. 15. 
 
Ch. 4. 
 
 153 
 
 Isionda appears clearly to have been on the Pam- 
 phylian side of Termessus*. 
 
 Dombai seems to be a corruption of Taba: : 
 hardly, indeed, a corruption, as it is no more than 
 the hard and rustic pronunciation of the Greek 
 word TaSa/. The situation of Dombai accords 
 very well with that which Strabo assigns to Taba>, 
 for he places it in the part of Pisidia adjacent to 
 Phrygia and Cariaf , and names it among the cities 
 which lay around Apameia and Laodiceia, which is 
 precisely the position of Dombai ^. The fertile 
 plain which has obtained the. name of Dornbai- 
 ovasi, or Valley of Dombai, corresponds equally 
 with the TaQr/Vov ir&iov, which, according to another 
 passage of Strabo, lay on the confines of Phrygia 
 and Pisidia §. It can hardly be doubted that Livy 
 has incorrectly described Tabse as situated on the 
 frontier of Pisidia towards the Pamphylian sea^[. 
 
 The river called the Mender-su, which General 
 Koehler crossed at Sandukli, seems to be that 
 branch of the Mseander anciently called Obrimas, 
 
 * Compare the preceding Note with those in pp. 14 6, 147, 
 158. Artemidorus (ap. Strabon. p. 570) includes Sinda among 
 the cities of Pisidia. Stephanus calls it a city of Lycia. 
 
 t Strabo, p. 570. \ Strabo, p. 576. 
 
 § Strabo, p. 627. 
 
 % " Indc (ab Antiochia ad Maeandrum) ad Gordiutichos, 
 quod vocant, processum est; ex eo loco ad Tabas tertiis castris 
 perventum: in finibus Pisidarum posita est urbs, in ea parte, 
 quae vergit ad Pamphylium mare." Liv. 1. 38. c. 13. 
 
154 
 
 Ch. 4. 
 
 the fountains of which were something more than 
 two days' march from Synnada, and not far from 
 Metropolis on the side towards Apameia *, The 
 modern application of the name Mseander (slightly 
 corrupted) to a stream which was anciently consi- 
 dered a tributary of that river, is another instance 
 of those natural changes of geographical nomen- 
 clature, of which a similar example has already been 
 given in the case of the river Sangarius. 
 
 It has already been remarked, that General 
 Koehler's route was crossed by five of the Roman 
 roads marked in the Peutinger Table. These are, 
 beginning from the southward, 1 . From Laodiceia 
 ad Lycum to Perge; 2. From Apameia Cibotus to 
 Antiocheia of Pisidia; 3. From Apameia to Syn- 
 nada; 4. from Apameia to Dorykeum; 5. From 
 Philadelphia to Dorylasum. — The real situations of 
 all these cities, except Antioch, being known with 
 sufficient exactitude, those of the intermediate places 
 on the several roads would also have been deter- 
 mined, had the distances in the Table been accurate; 
 but unfortunately, like some of those to which I have 
 already had occasion to advert, they are either im- 
 perfect or they are obviously erroneous, when com- 
 pared with the map. 
 
 1 . From Laodiceia ad Lycum to Perge, passing 
 through Themisonium and Cormasa. — Although 
 the direct distance is upwards of 100 G. M. there 
 * See the Note page 152. 
 
Ch. 4. 155 
 
 are only 46 M. P. marked in the Table, namely, 
 34 between Themisonium and Cormasa, and 12 
 from Cormasa to Perge. If these two distances were 
 correct, therefore, the omitted distance between 
 Laodiceia and Themisonium ought to be supplied 
 with about 100 M. P. It is impossible to believe 
 however that Themisonium, which is named by 
 Strabo among the smaller towns around Apameia 
 and Laodiceia*, could have been so far to the south- 
 east. Cormasa, on the other hand, must have been 
 much more than 12 M. P. from Perge; for it ap- 
 pears from Livy that Cormasa was at a conside- 
 rable distance from the borders of Pamphylia 
 towards Lysinoe and the lake of Burdur f; which 
 agrees with Ptolemy, who names it among the 
 cities of Pisidia and next to L^sinia. The sus- 
 picion of inaccuracy in this route of the Table is 
 confirmed by the negligences which occur on its 
 continuation to Side ; where the distance between 
 Perge and Syllium is wanting, and where Syllium 
 and Aspendus occupy each other's places. Upon 
 the whole, therefore, this route serves only to give 
 us the line of Themisonium and Cormasa, the 
 distance between which two places (34 M.P.) may 
 
 * Strabo, p. 576. See Note *, p. 158.— Ptolemy places it 
 in the same part of the country with Cibyra, Hierapolis and 
 Apameia. By Hieroclcs it is named among the towns of Phry- 
 gia Pacatiana, together with Laodiceia, Colossae and Hierapolis. 
 
 t See Note p. 152. 
 
15G 
 
 Ch. 4. 
 
 perhaps be correct. And so far it may be an useful 
 approximation to the traveller. 
 
 2. From Apameia to Antiocheia of Pisidia. — 
 There cannot be a stronger proof of the little pro- 
 gress yet made in geographical discovery in Asia 
 Minor, than the fact, that the site of Apameia still 
 remains unexplored. Under the name of Celaense, 
 it was the capital of Phrygia ; and in Roman 
 times, although not equal in political importance 
 to Laodiceia, which was the residence of the pro- 
 consul of Asia, it was inferior only to Ephesus as 
 a centre of commercial transactions*. It appears 
 from Pococke to have been at a place called Din- 
 glar (or some such name), situated, as well as we 
 can discover amidst the negligence and want of 
 precision which are the usual characteristics of 
 Pococke's narrative, at 8 or 10 miles on the right 
 of the road leading from Khonos to Isheklef, and 
 about 16 miles J to the southward of the latter 
 place. Pococke himself had no doubt that some re- 
 mains of antiquity which he observed at Ishekle 
 were those of Apameia ; thus overlooking, or fail- 
 
 * Strabo, p. 577. 
 
 t Pococke's Travels, vol. 2. part 2. c. 14. 
 
 t I have somewhat enlarged Pococke's computation of miles, 
 as I find, in the sequel of his route to A'ngura, that (contrary 
 to the common error of travellers) it is generally below the 
 truth. He computes about 100 English miles from Karahissar 
 to A'ngura; whereas the distance is little less than 120 G. M. 
 in direct distance. 
 
Ch. 4. 
 
 157 
 
 ing to decyplier, an inscription which he copied at 
 that place, and which clearly proves it to be the site 
 of Eumeneia or Eumenia*. 
 
 Eumenia was situated on the river Glaucus, as 
 appears from an existing coin f . Pliny names the 
 Glaucus, but places Eumenia upon the river Clu- 
 drus. Possibly this may have been the name of 
 the sources of the Glaucus, those fine fountains 
 which Pococke observed at Ishekle, and which may 
 perhaps join another stream in or near the town. 
 
 As Eumenia is marked in the Table on the road 
 
 * The beginning of this inscription is imperfect : it ends in a 
 form common upon sepulchral monuments, by subjecting the 
 violator of the tomb to a fine, payable to the treasury of the 
 city, and another sum to the Council. 
 
 fclSKON AHNAPIA AI2XEIAIA KAI 
 Til EYMENES1N BOYAH AHNAPIA B. 4> 
 Pococke copied the third letter of the lower line 2 instead of E, 
 which was probably the cause of his failing to discover the 
 ancient name of Ishekle. Eu^evsvg is the ethnic adjective of 
 Eumeneia in Stephanus, and ETMENE11N is the legend on 
 the coins of that city. Another inscription at Ishekle supported 
 a statue of Marcus Aurelius, rbv 'l$iov Ssbv svspysr^v. And a 
 third attests the worship at that place, among other deities, of 
 the damon Angdistis, ANTAISTEnS AAIM0N02, under 
 which name the mother of the gods was adored at Pessinus. 
 Her worship in the country adjacent to the Maeander may be 
 inferred from Pliny, who alludes to her epithet of Berecynthia 
 in the passage in which he speaks of Eumenia : " Est Eumenia 
 Cludro flumini apposita, Glaucus amnis. Lysias oppidum et 
 Orthosia, Berecynthius tractus, Nysa.Tralles," &c. 1. 5.C.29. 
 I Eckhel Doct. Num. Vet. Phrygia. 
 
158 
 
 Ch. 4. 
 
 from Dorylaeum to Apameia at 26 M. P. from the 
 latter, we have a presumption in this datum alone 
 that Apameia was not far from Dinglar, the site of 
 which modern place, relatively to the other chief 
 ancient cities of Phrygia, is in conformity with that 
 of Apameia, as described by Strabo *. Our know- 
 ledge of the peculiarities of the place itself is derived 
 from Pococke and some recent travellers, who were 
 informed that at the place called Dinglar or Dizla 
 there are many remains of antiquity under a high 
 hill which has a lake on the summit and a river fall- 
 ing down the face of the hill; for this description 
 of Dinglar accords precisely with that of Celsense as 
 given by several ancient authors. According to 
 Xenophon f the Mseander rose in the palace of Cy- 
 rus, flowing from thence through his park and the 
 city of Celsense : and the sources of the Marsyas were 
 
 * P. 576. "To the south of Phrygia Epictetus," he says, 
 " is Great Phrygia, which has Pessinus and Lycaonia on the 
 right, the Maeones, Lydians and Carians on the left : it con- 
 tains Phrygia Parorchis and the part towards Pisidia, and the 
 country about Amorium, and Synnada and Eumeneia, Apameia 
 surnamed Cibotus, and Laodiceia, which are the two greatest 
 of the Phrygian cities, and around which are other smaller towns, 
 Aphrodisias, Colossae, Themisonium, Sanaus, Metropolis, Apol- 
 lonias; and still further off Peltse, Tabas, Eucarpia, Lysjas :" 
 the " still further off" (hi SI dnuoripM -rovruiv) is however net 
 geographically accurate in regard to all the places mentioned. 
 
 t Kt\aivd$ 'Evravfta. Kvpw (SacriXsta r t v y.a) tta.pdSs.iVog 
 
 peyas .... Aid pecou Ss rou irccpaSslo-ov psi'o MalocvSpog iroray,o$' 
 al ol itr t yai avrov sWiv sk rwv ficccriXsiujv pel Ss xa* Sid rrjs Ke- 
 Aaivw rfoXsws. *E<rrt Ss xa) jUsyaAoo /SacrjAicuc /3a<r<A£ja h 
 
Ch. 4. 
 
 159 
 
 at the palace of the king of Persia in a lofty situ- 
 ation under the acropolis of Celsense. From 
 Arrian and Q. Curtius * we learn that the citadel 
 was upon a lofty precipitous hill, and that the Mar- 
 syas fell from its fountains over the rocks with a 
 great noise : from Herodotus j" it appears that the 
 same river was from this circumstance called Ca- 
 tarrhactes ; and from Strabo J, that a lake on the 
 
 KsXeuveus spvpvd, air) reus Ttyyous rou Mecpvvov irorettxou virb rf, 
 dxpoitoXsr pal Sa xa< ovros Sid rrjs KoXaws xa* Jju.?aAAs» sl$ rbv 
 Malay Spov. Xenoph. Cyri Exp. 1. 1. c. 2. 
 
 Xenophon adds that Celaenae was a large and flourishing city ; 
 that the palace and acropolis were built by Xerxes on his return 
 from Greece j that the park was full of wild beasts which 
 Cyrus hunted for the exercise of himself and his horses ; that 
 the Marsyas rose in a cavern, where Apollo hung up the skin of 
 Marsyas ; and that the breadth of the Marsyas was 25 feet. 
 
 * 'AhifavSpos .... d^iKvalrai as KsXcuvds ita^Ttrouos. Ev Sa 
 reus KaXcuvcus axpa. tjv tfdvrrj dtforopos. Alexander gladly came 
 to terms with the people on account of the strength of the 
 citadel, (ditopov irdvryj tfpocrpapacrSea rr t v d.Kpav.) Arrian, 1. 1. 
 c. 29. 
 
 Alexander .... ad urbem Celsnas exercitum admovit. Me- 
 
 diam ilia tempestate interfluebat Marsyas amnis Fons 
 
 ejus ex summo montis cacumine excurrens in subjectam petram 
 
 magno strepitu aquarum cadit Alexander .... arcem 
 
 oppugnare adortus caduceatorem praemisit .... illi caduceato- 
 rem in turrim et situ et opere multum editam perduetum, 
 quanta esset altitudo intueri jubent, &c. Q. Curt. 1. 3. c. 1. 
 
 t • . . . as Kehcuvds' fr« rcrfycLi dvaoihijo-i McudvSpov ifo- 
 
 rapou, xou krapov ovk aXdcrcravos yjMcudvSpou, rut ovvoy.ee, rvyy^d- 
 
 vai abv KaTappyKrys, os a% avrrjs rijs dyopijs TyS KaXcavauiv 
 
 dvccraXKwv, as rbv MalzvSpov ex$i$o7. Herod. 1. 7. c. 26. 
 
 X "iSpvrou §a vj 'Atduaicc sir) reus axZoXeus rov Mapavov ito- 
 
100 Ch. 4. 
 
 mountain above Celrenas was the reputed source 
 both of the Marsyas, which rose in the ancient 
 city, and of the Mseander. Comparing these au- 
 thorities with Livy *, who probably copied his 
 account from Polybius, with Pliny f, with Maxi- 
 
 ra&ov' xa) pel Std ^<rr^ rijs rtoXeujs 6 ifora^bs, rds apyas dtb 
 rys (iraXatdc) TfoXecvs cp^wv xareve^els 8' air) rb itpodvreiov 
 c<po$puj xa) xaruxpepel np pevpari, au^aXXei itpbs rbv Mai- 
 avSpov, rpo?v.Xr$6ra xa) aXXov itora\xbv 'Opyav, Si 6yaX:>5 
 
 feoousvov itpaov xa) y^aXaxov "Kpyerai 5e (o MalavSpo;) 
 
 ditb KeXaivujv, Xo<pov ftvbs ev to itoXis yv o^u)vv(ji.os f(u Xotyw. 
 'EvrevQev 5g dvarrytras rois dvQpuiirovs o Swnjo 'Kvrloyps els 
 
 ryv vuv 'Aira/xejav, &c. 'titeoxeirai 8k xa) x/javij (pvovo-a 
 
 xaXa\h0v, rbv els t&s yXourras riZv auXdJv eitirr^e^v, et r t s dito- 
 AsifeaOa/ (pa.cn rds it^yds duy<pore§as, ryv re rov Mapcrvou xa) 
 ■njV rov Maidv$pou. Strabo, p. 578. 
 
 * Consul (Cn. Manlius) .... ad Antiochiam super Mseandrum 
 amnem posuit castra. Hujus amnis fontes Celsenis oriuntur. 
 Celsenae urbs caput quondam Phrygian fuit : migratum inde 
 haud procul veteribus Cekenis, novaeque urbi Apameas nomen 
 
 inditum Et Marsyas amnis, baud procul a Maeandri 
 
 fontibus oriens, in Meeandrum cadit. Famaque ita tenet 
 Celaenis Marsyam cum Apolline tibiarum cantu certasse. Mae- 
 ander, ex arce summa Celaenarum ortus, media urbe decur- 
 rens, per Caras primum, deinde Ionas, in sinum maris editur, 
 qui inter Prienen et Miletum est. Liv. 1. 38. c 38. 
 
 t Tertius (AsiaeConventus) Apamiam vadit, anteappcllatam 
 Celaenas, dein Ciboton. Sita est in radice Montis Signne, 
 circumfusis Marsya, Obrima, Orga fluminibus in Maeandrum 
 cadentibus. Marsyas ibi redditur ortus ac paullo mox con- 
 ditus ; ubi certavit tibiarum cantu cum Apolline, Aulocrenis 
 ita vocatur, convallis decern millia passuum ab Apamia Phry- 
 giam petentibus. * * * * Amnis Maeander ortus e lacu in 
 monte Aulocrene .... Apamenam primum pervagatur regio- 
 nem mox Eumenilicam, &c. Plin. Hist. Nat. 1. 5. c. 29. 
 
Ch. 4. 
 
 1(J1 
 
 mus Tyrius *, and with the existing coins of Apa- 
 meia +, it may be inferred that a lake or pool on 
 the summit of a mountain which rose above Celse- 
 nas, and which was called Celsense or Signia, was the 
 reputed source of the Marsyas and Maeander ; but 
 that in fact the two rivers issued from different 
 parts of the mountain below the lake : that the 
 lake was named Aulocrene, as producing reeds well 
 
 * fyvys; ot Ttspl KsXatvds vspopsvoi Ttpuja-i tfora/xouV SCo, 
 Ma/Jcroav xa) Malay Spov. slSov rot); rtofapo6$. d<pli)<rtv autovg 
 irrjyrj (iloc, y tfpoeXQoutra, kir) to opo$ d<pa,vl£e?ai xard vwtov rrj$ 
 itoXeuig xauQi$ IxSiSol kx tou a<rreo$, <$i£\ov<ra ro~$ irota^olf xa\ 
 to vSwp xa) td 6vou.aTa. o juiv hit) AvSlag ps7 6 Malav$§o$, 6 <5e 
 avtov tf£p) rd tfstf/a dva\l<rxetou. Max. Tyr. Dissert. 8. c. 8. 
 
 He then proceeds to relate a tale resembling that which 
 Strabo has told us of the Alpheius and Eurotas, and which 
 shews that the sources of the Maeander and Marsyas were 
 exactly circumstanced as those of the two Peloponnesian rivers, 
 described by Pausanias (Arcad. c. 43.) and Strabo (p. 343), 
 and the accuracy of whose description I have myself ascer- 
 tained. Those celebrated streams issue from separate sources 
 at the foot of a mountain, behind which, in the elevated plain 
 of Asea, is a rivulet, which, after crossing that plain, runs 
 through a small lake into the mountain. This rivulet was 
 anciently reputed to be the common origin of the two rivers ; 
 and it was believed (but apparently not by Strabo himself), 
 that if offerings to the two river-gods were thrown into this 
 stream, each offering would re-appear at the source of the river 
 for the god of which it was destined by the sacrifices Maxi- 
 mus Tyrius improves upon the similar story relating to the 
 Maeander, by adding, that if a joint offering was thrown in for 
 both the gods, it was divided in its passage through the moun^ 
 tain, and a portion appeared at each of the lower sources. 
 
 t See Eckhel and Mionnet in Phrygia. 
 M 
 
162 
 
 Ch.4. 
 
 adapted for flutes, and that it gave the name of Au- 
 locrenis to a valley extending for ten miles from 
 the lake to the eastward: that the source of the 
 Marsyas was in a cavern on the side of the moun- 
 tain in the ancient agora of Celsense: that the 
 Marsyas and Mseander, both of which flowed 
 through Celaense, united a little below the ancient 
 site : that to this junction the city was removed by 
 Antiochus Soter, son of Seleucus Nicator, when 
 he gave it a new name after his mother Apama; 
 and that the united stream was soon afterwards 
 joined by the Orgas and the Obrimas. Whether 
 these inferences drawn from the ancient authors 
 are correct, will be decided by the future traveller. 
 He may also ascertain whether there are any vol- 
 canic rocks, the burnt appearance of which will jus- 
 tify the etymologist* who ascribed to that cause the 
 origin of the word Cekenae ; or he may discover 
 the valley of Aulocrenis, the scene of the cele- 
 brated contest of Apollo with Marsyas, whose skin 
 was still shown in the time of Herodotus, in the 
 acropolis of Celaense t' 
 
 * Strabo, p. 579. 
 
 f M. Barbie du Bocage, in his notes to the French translation 
 of Chandler, thinks that the words of Pliny cited above, warrant 
 the supposition that Apameia was ten miles distant from the site 
 of Celaenae. I cannot perceive any such meaning in them : on 
 the contrary, I think it clearly appears from Strabo, that both 
 the rivers ran through Celeense, and that they united in the 
 suburb, which afterwards became the new city Apameia. The 
 removal of Grecian cities, from the strong positions of the an- 
 
Ch. 4. 
 
 163 
 
 I have been thus particular in laying before the 
 reader the ancient evidences on the site of Apameia, 
 because it is a point of great importance to the 
 ancient geography of the western part of Asia Mi- 
 nor, — not less so than Tyana is to the eastern: and 
 because in regard to both these places, I have the 
 misfortune to differ from the author in whose opi- 
 nion the public is justly in the habit of placing the 
 highest confidence*. 
 
 The Roman road from Apameia to Antiocheia 
 of Pisidia passed through Apollonia, otherwise 
 called Mordiseum t» which was 24 M.P. distant 
 from the former, and 45 from the latter. Although 
 on account of our ignorance of the site of Antio- 
 cheia, no exact comparison can be instituted between 
 the amount of the two numbers just mentioned 
 and the actual distance on the map, it is ma- 
 nifestly not very erroneous ; and the position of 
 Apollonia therefore was probably at no great 
 distance from a town called Ketsiburlu, which 
 
 cient independent republics, to neighbouring situations more 
 commodious but less defensible, was a common occurrence on 
 the decline of the republican system in Greece, and on the pre- 
 valence of monarch}'; and it was a natural consequence of that 
 change of system. The removal was generally attended with 
 a change of name, which flattered the Macedonian or Roman 
 prince under whom the removal took place. It often occurred, 
 also, that a new name was given upon the mere occasion of a 
 repair, when there was no change of situation. 
 
 * See Rennell's Illustrations of the Expedition of Cyrus. 
 
 t Stephan. in 'AiroWwvia,. 
 
 M 2 
 
164 
 
 Ch. 4. 
 
 General Koehler passed through between Burdur 
 and Dombai, and which according to Abubekr 
 Ben Behren is a kadilik of Hamed, of which Isbarta 
 is the chief city. Ptolemy places Apollonia near 
 Antiocheia; and its situation, between thatcity and 
 Apameia, which the Table gives, is in exact con- 
 formity with Strabo's description of the conquests 
 of Amyntas. Having taken Derbe, and received 
 Isauria from the Romans, he made himself master 
 of Antiocheia, and the country as far as the district 
 of Apollonia, near Apameia Cibotus*, together 
 with Lycaonia and some part of Phrygia Paroreius. 
 He took Cremna, but did not venture on attacking 
 Sandalium : and after capturing the greater part of 
 the places belonging to the Homonadenses, (whose 
 tyrant he slew,) he was himself destroyed by a stra- 
 tagem of the wife of the latter. Sulpicius Quirinius 
 and the Romans afterwards reduced Homona: — all 
 the late territories of Amyntas were then placed 
 under the government of a prsefectf . 
 
 3. The ancient road from Apameia to Synnada 
 must have crossed that of Gen. Koehler at or near 
 Sandukli, on the river now called the Mendere (Mae- 
 ander), but which anciently, I suppose to have been 
 the Obrimas, a branch of the Masander. The total 
 distance of 73 Roman miles on this road agrees 
 
 * Trjv ydp 'Avrioxsiav s^wv rr,v irpbs ry UitriSia ^XP l 'A* *- 
 huvidSos, rfs Tfpb$ 'AtfawEia trj Kitoorw &c. Strabo, p. 569. 
 t Strabo, ibid.— -Tacit. Ann. 1. 3. c. 48. 
 
Ch. 4. 165 
 
 tolerably with the 66 geographical miles in direct 
 distance, which the map gives between the assumed 
 site of Synnada and that of Apameia at Dinglar. 
 Euphorbium, the only place on the road mentioned 
 in the Table, and which was midway between the 
 two extremes, will fall at Sandukli. Euphorbium 
 is noticed as a town in this part of Asia by Pliny 
 only, who tells us that its people formed,— together 
 with those of Metropolis, Peltae, Acmonia and 
 some other towns, — the conventus held under the 
 Romans at Apameia *. 
 
 4. The fourth Roman road which crossed the 
 modern route from Adalia to Shughut, 13 that 
 marked in the Table from Dorylseum to Apa- 
 meia Cibotus, leading through Nacoleia, Conni, 
 Eucarpia, and Eumeniaf. Although the total 
 distance of 148 M. P. on this road sufficiently 
 agrees with the 100 G. M. in direct distance on 
 the map, it must be confessed that the 26 Ro- 
 man miles and the 15 geographical miles of direct 
 distance, between Eumeneia aflshekle and Apa- 
 
 * Plin. Hist. Nat. 1. 5. c. 29. Similar assemblies were held 
 at Cibyra, Synnada, Laodiceia ad Lycum, Alabanda, Ephesus, 
 Smyrna, Sardes, Adramyttium, and Pergamum. 
 
 t Between Eumenia and the number which marks the miles 
 from thence to ad vicum, which seems to have been a small place 
 between Eumenia and Apameia, — occurs the word Pella. I am 
 quite unable to explain what this means. I thought at first it was 
 a mistake for Peltae, an important town situated in this part of 
 Phrygia ; but it is impossible to find room for Peltae and the 
 great Peltene plain between Ishelcle and Dinglar. 
 
166 
 
 Ch. 4. 
 
 meia at Dinglar, do not bear the same proportion 
 as the Roman and geographical numbers on the 
 whole line ; and that, if I am right in the position 
 of Nacoleia, the 20 M. P. of the Table, between 
 Dorylaeum and Nacoleia, errs almost as much in 
 defect, as the 26 M. P. between Eumeneia and 
 Apameia does in excess. But it is in vain that 
 we look for much accuracy of detail in the Table. 
 The positions of Nacoleia and Eumeneia rest upon 
 very satisfactory grounds. All that remains to be 
 done, therefore, is to arrange Conni and Eucarpia 
 between Doganlu and Ishekle, at the proportional 
 distances of the numbers in the Table. This will 
 place Conni not far to the southward of Altun Tash, 
 near where the roads to Altun Tash, both from 
 Karahissar and from Sandukli, cross the ancient 
 road ; a position which agrees with that of Conna 
 in Ptolemy *, according to whom it appears to have 
 been not far from Cotyaeium, to the southward. 
 Under the Byzantine emperors, Conna (then called 
 Cone f ) was a bishopric of the province of Phrygia 
 Salutaris, of which Synnada was the metropolis. 
 
 Eucarpia was another bishopric of the same 
 province. Its name was derived from the fertility 
 of the soil J, which by attaching the people to agri- 
 culture may have contrasted them with those of the 
 neighbouring Euphorbium, celebrated probably for 
 
 * Ptolemy, 1. 5. c. 2. f Notit. Episc. Graec. 
 
 X Stephan, de Urb. in Evxxfjtia,. 
 
Ch. 4. 
 
 167 
 
 its flocks and pasture. The position of Eucarpia 
 in the Table agrees with that which Ptolemy gives 
 it to the southward of Conna. 
 
 5. The fifth and last of the ancient roads inter- 
 sected by the modern road from Adalia to Shughut 
 was from Dorylseum to Philadelpheia : its two ex- 
 tremities are known points ; its length in direct 
 distance is equal to two degrees of latitude, or 120 
 G. M., which corresponds with as much accuracy 
 as one can expect to the 155 M. P. of the Table. 
 The line, as will be seen on referring to the map, 
 leads directly through Kutaya. We cannot doubt 
 therefore that Cocleo, the first name occurring on 
 this road in the Table, is an error for Cotyaeio ; 
 especially as the distance of 30 M. P. answers very 
 well to the real distance from Eski-shehr to Kutaya. 
 The distance of 35 M. P. between Cotyaeium and 
 Acmonia furnishes the traveller with a good ap- 
 proximation for discovering the site of the latter 
 city, which is mentioned in one of the Orations of 
 Cicero # , and which was one of the towns of the con- 
 ventus of Apameia, and afterwards a bishopric under 
 the metropolitan of Laodiceia. It is difficult to re- 
 concile the position of Aludda, 25 miles beyond Ac- 
 monia on the road to Philadelpheia, with that which 
 may be inferred from Ptolemy, who names Alydda 
 among the towns of the greater Mysia, together 
 with Pergamum and Apollonia on the Rhyn- 
 * Cicero pro Klacco, c. 15. 
 
16S 
 
 Ch. 4, 
 
 dacus. Clanudda I suspect to be an erroneous 
 writing; but its correction I am unable to dis- 
 cover. 
 
 It is in tbe unexplored part of Plirygia Epic- 
 tetus*, lying between the Thymbres and the 
 branches of the Rhyndacus on the southern side of 
 the Olympene mountains, that the future traveller 
 will seek for the Phrygian cities of Cadi, Azani, 
 and Synaus. One is much disposed at first sight 
 to consider the remarkable position of Inoghi, which 
 General Koehler passed through in his way from 
 Kutaya to Shughut, to have been the site of one of 
 these cities of Phrygia Epictetus ; but upon further 
 examination, they all appear to have been situated 
 considerably to the westward of this position. 
 The Azanitis, or district of Azani, contained the 
 sources of the river Rhyndacus, which, after pass- 
 ing through the lake of Apollonia, joined the Pro- 
 pontis opposite the island of Besbicus, having first 
 received the united waters of several streams from 
 Mysia Abrettena, particularly the Mecistus, which 
 flowed from Ancyra Abassitis, a Phrygian town on 
 the frontier of Lydia f. Synaus appears to have 
 
 * It was also called Hellespontine Phrygia, although totally 
 divided from the Hellespont by Mysia. Hence it would seem 
 that the part of Mysia lying between mount Olympus and the 
 Caicus was included at one time in the district of Hellespon- 
 tus ; which at that time extended from the Hellespont to the 
 Thymbres. 
 
 t Strabo, p. 576. 
 
Ch. 4. 
 
 169 
 
 been near this Ancyra ; for in the acts of one of 
 the Councils, a bishop of the Phrygian Ancyra 
 signs himself Ayxvgc&g 'Xvvvoiov, no doubt in order 
 to distinguish this Ancyra from the Galatian. Cadi 
 also may be presumed to have been to the west- 
 ward of the meridian of Inoghi and Kutaya ; for 
 we find that Cadi is assigned by some authors to 
 Mysia*. It is precisely in the situation, which may 
 be inferred from this circumstance, combined with 
 what has been said of the position of Synaus and 
 Azani, — that is to say, between the Thymbres and 
 the sources of the Rhyndacus, — that we find a 
 town of the name of Kodus, which has not been 
 visited by any modern traveller, but which is briefly 
 described by Hadji Khalfa — as situated on the banks 
 of a river, in a plain surrounded by mountains. 
 He adds that the river, which bears the same name 
 as the town, descends from Mount Morad, and 
 passes by Magnesia into the Gulf of Smyrna. We 
 know from modern travellers, that this river, which 
 is the ancient Hermus, is still called Kodus or Ghe- 
 dis in all the lower part of its course; and Kodus, it 
 can hardly be doubted, is the same place as KadV, 
 the name of which the Turks received from the 
 Greeks, in the usual Romaic form of the accusa- 
 tive case Kctbovg. 
 
 * Strabo ibid. See Note f, p. 145. — Ptolemy ascribes Cadi 
 and two other towns to the Erizcli, a people of Mseonia,, on the 
 borders of Mysia, Lydia and Fhrygia. 
 
170 
 
 Ch. 4. 
 
 In exploring the equally unknown country which 
 extends to the southward of this part of Phrygia 
 Epictetus, towards the mountains Messogis and 
 Tmolus, and which formed the frontier of Lydia 
 and Great Phrygia, the traveller may derive assist- 
 ance from a passage in Strabo *, where he enume- 
 rates the principal plains in their order from west 
 to east. Adjacent to the Caystrian, which lay be- 
 tween Tmolus and Messogis, was the Cilbian, 
 then the Hyrcanian, the plain of Cyrus, the Pel- 
 tene, the Cillanian, and the Tabene. It cannot 
 be doubted that a journey through these plains 
 would lead to a knowledge of the general distri- 
 bution of the geography of the country, as well as 
 to that of the sites of some of the towns which 
 gave name to the several plains. Peltae, Lysias, 
 and Silbium appear to have been in the country 
 northward of the upper Mseander, which is traversed 
 by the caravan route from Smyrna to Tokat : but 
 the few names and distances which Tavernier and 
 Seetzen have left us between Allah-Shehr and Ka- 
 rahissar, throw no light whatever upon ancient 
 geography. 
 
 * Strabo. p. 629. 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 OF THE ANCIENT PLACES ON THE SOUTHERN 
 COAST OF ASIA MINOR. 
 
 Although the Karamania of Captain Beaufort 
 has anticipated all that is most interesting in re- 
 gard to the southern coast, the publication which 
 has recently been made of his minute and accurate 
 delineation of this coast, induces me to enter into 
 an examination of its ancient geography at greater 
 length than was consistent with the plan of the 
 Karamania: for poor and deserted as this country 
 now is, the numerous remains of antiquity which 
 it possesses, attest that it was formerly one of the 
 most populous and flourishing regions of the an- 
 cient world. It is remarkable that in Strabo, and 
 in the anonymous Periplus, entitled the Stadias- 
 mus of the Sea (ffrubiccfffjuog rrjg SuXaffffrjg), a frag- 
 ment of which is preserved in the Madrid library, 
 we have a more ample description of this coast than 
 of any other that has been distinguished by Grecian 
 civilization : and thus at the same time that history 
 has preserved an abundance of information concern- 
 ing its ancient places, the survey of Capt. Beaufort 
 furnishes us with a most correct representation of 
 its real topography. 
 
172 
 
 Ch. 5. 
 
 The most convenient mode of putting the reader 
 in possession of the ancient authorities on the sea 
 coast of Lycia, Pamphylia, and Cilicia, in order 
 that he may compare them with the actual deline- 
 ation, will be to give a translation of its description 
 by Strabo, subjoining in the notes the collateral 
 information of other ancient authors, together with 
 a few remarks suggested by a comparison of them. 
 The passages of the Stadiasmus I shall cite at 
 length in the original language, because they are 
 found only in a scarce work. So minute is the 
 description which this coasting pilot has given, that 
 nothing short of the detailed accuracy of Captain 
 Beaufort's survey could have been sufficient to ex- 
 plain it, or to detect and rectify the numerous 
 errors which have been left in it by the negligence 
 and ignorance of the copier *. 
 
 As Captain Beaufort's survey begins at the gulf 
 anciently called Glaucus, and now the gulf of Ma- 
 kri, I shall also begin the extract from Strabo f at 
 the same point, omitting all the passages which do 
 not assist in elucidating the geography. 
 
 * The survey having been reduced to a tenth of Captain 
 Beaufort's scale in the map which accompanies the present 
 volume, the latter may in some instances, perhaps, be found 
 inadequate to illustrate the geographical remarks in the follow- 
 ing chapter ; which were constantly made with a reference to 
 the survey itself. In all such difficulties, which it is hoped will 
 not be found numerous, the reader is necessarily referred to 
 the original authority. f Strabo, p. 664. 
 
Ch. 
 
 <K 
 
 173 
 
 " Beyond Daedala, which is the last place in Pe- 
 raea of the Rhodii (1), is a mountain of the same 
 name, from whence begins the coast of Lycia, which 
 is 1720 stades in circum-navigation, rugged and dan- 
 gerous, but provided with good harbours. . . . Near 
 Dasdala, a mountain of the Lycii, is Telmissus, a 
 small city of the Lycii, and Cape Telmissis with a 
 harbour. Next is Anticragus, a very steep mountain, 
 under which is Carmylessus, situated in a narrow 
 valley : beyond it is Cragus, which has eight capes 
 and a city of the same name. It is to these moun- 
 tains that the fables related of the Chimaera are ap- 
 plied, and in the vicinity there is a ravine called Chi- 
 maera opening to the sea. Under Mount Cragus 
 in the interior is Pinara, one of the largest cities in 
 Lycia. Then occurs the river Xanthus, formerly 
 called Sirbe. It may be ascended in small boats to 
 the temple of Latona, which is situated ten stades 
 above its mouth: sixty stades above the temple is 
 the city of the Xanthii, the greatest in Lycia (2). 
 Beyond the Xanthus is Patara, also a great city, 
 and having a port and a temple of Apollo, founded 
 by Patarus (3) Then occurs Myra (4), si- 
 tuated twenty stades above the sea on a command- 
 ing hill; then the mouth of the river Limyrus; 
 and twenty stades inland from it, the small town of 
 Limyra. On the coast just mentioned are many 
 harbours and islands: of the latter, the largest is 
 called Cisthene (5), and has a town of the same 
 
174 
 
 Ch. o. 
 
 name. In the interior are Phellus, Antiphellus (6), 
 and Chimaera, of which last we have already spoken. 
 Beyond the mouth of the Limyrus is the Sacred Pro- 
 montory (7), and the three rugged islands called the 
 Chelidonia.-, equal in size, and distant from each 
 other about five stades, and from the continent six 
 stades ; one of them has an anchorage. From hence 
 it is generally thought that Mount Taurus has its 
 beginning. * * * But in truth the mountains are un- 
 interrupted from Perasa of the Rhodii, as far as the 
 parts about Pisidia; and the whole of this range also 
 bears the name of Taurus. * * * From the Sacred 
 Promontory to Olbia there is a distance of 367 stades 
 (8), in which space occurs Crambusa (9) and Olym- 
 pus : the latter is a large city, and has a mountain 
 of the same name, which is also called Phcenicus 
 (10); next to it is the coast named Corycus (11); 
 and then Phaselis, a large city with three harbours 
 and a lake. Above Phaselis is Mount Solyma. 
 Termessus, a Pisidian city, is situated at the straits 
 of Mount Solyma, where is the ascent into Milyas. 
 Alexander destroyed Termessus, because he was 
 desirous of opening those passes. Near Phaselis 
 is the defile on the sea-shore through which Alex- 
 ander led his army. The mountain is called Cli- 
 max; it borders upon the Pamphylian sea, leaving a 
 narrow passage along the shore, which, when the sea 
 is calm, is dry and practicable to travellers, but when 
 swollen, is, for the most part, covered by the waves. 
 
Cli. 5. 
 
 175 
 
 The road over the mountain is circuitous and dif- 
 ficult, for which reason the passage along the shore 
 is preferred in fair weather. Alexander happening 
 to be here in the winter season, and trusting to 
 fortune, attempted to pass before the waves had 
 subsided; the soldiers in consequence had to march 
 the whole day up to the middle in water (12). 
 Phaselis is a city of Lycia on the confines of Pam- 
 phylia ; it does not, however, belong to the com- 
 munity of the Lycians, but has a separate govern- 
 ment of its own. In like manner Homer considers 
 the Solymi as separate from the Lycians. * * * 
 Next to Phaselis is Olbia (13), a great fortress, and 
 the beginning of Pamphylia; then the Catarrhactes, 
 a large and rapid river, which falls from a lofty 
 rock, with a sound heard at a great distance (14). 
 Next is the city Attaleia, so named from its founder 
 Attalus Philadelphus, who having also introduced a 
 colony into the neighbouring town of Corycus, com- 
 prehended them within a wall, which inclosed a space 
 of ground of no great extent (15). It is said that 
 Thebe and Lyrnessus* are to be seen between Pha- 
 selis and Attaleia; for Callisthenes informs us that 
 a part of the Cilices of Troas being driven out of the 
 plain of Thebe, came into Pamphylia. Next is the 
 river Cestrus (16), navigable for sixty stades to 
 Perge ; near Perge, in a lofty situation, is the 
 
 * Strabo here means to allude to the mention of these two 
 places by Homer. 
 
176 
 
 Ch. 5. 
 
 temple of Diana Pergsea, where a religious as- 
 sembly is held every year. Then, at a distance 
 of forty stades from the sea, is a lofty city, con- 
 spicuous from Perge; then a lake of considerable 
 size, called Capria; and next the river Eurymedon; 
 and a navigable ascent of sixty stades to the po- 
 pulous city of Aspendus, which was a colony from 
 Argus. Higher up lies Pednelissus. Beyond (the 
 Eurymedon) is another river, with many small 
 islands lying before it ( 1 7) . Then occurs Side (18), 
 a colony from Cyme, and having a temple of Mi- 
 nerva. Near it is the coast of the lesser Cibyra ; 
 then the river Melas (19), and a station for ships; 
 and then the city Ptolemais (20), beyond which are 
 theboundariesofPamphylia and Coracesium, which 
 is the beginning of Cilicia Tracheia. The whole 
 circumnavigation of Pamphylia is G40 stades. 
 
 " Of Cilicia, beyond Taurus, a part is called Tra- 
 cheia (rugged), and a part Pedias (plain). Of the 
 rugged, the maritime part is narrow, and has very 
 little or no level country ; the part which the Tau- 
 rus overhangs is equally mountainous, and is thinly 
 inhabited as far as the northern flanks near Isaura, 
 and the Homonadenses, and as far as Pisidia. 
 Hence the country is called Tracheiotis, and the 
 inhabitants Tracheiotse. Cilicia Pedias extends 
 from Soli and Tarsus as far as Issus ; and includes 
 all the country as far as the part of Cappadocia 
 which is adjacent to the northern flank of Taurus. 
 
Gh. o. 
 
 177 
 
 This division of Cilicia consists for the most part 
 of plains, and a fertile land. 
 
 Having spoken of the parts (of Cilicia) within 
 Taurus *, we shall now proceed to speak of those 
 without Taurus, beginning with Tracheiotis. The 
 first fortress of the Cilicians is Coracesium, built upon 
 a precipitous rock (21). Diodotus, surnamed Try- 
 phon, made use of it as an arsenal, when, with va- 
 rying success, he headed an insurrection of Syria 
 against its kings, and at length was forced to put an 
 end to his own life, upon being blockaded in a cer- 
 tain fortress by Antiochus the son of Demetrius. 
 Tryphon set the example of piracy to the Cili- 
 cians, &c. 
 
 "After Coracesium is Syedra (22), thenHamaxia 
 (23), a small inhabited place upon a rock, with a 
 station for vessels below it, to which ship-timber is 
 brought down from the mountains. This consists 
 chiefly of cedar, a wood apparently very abundant 
 in these parts; for which reason Antonius gave this 
 region to Cleopatra, as being well suited for fitting 
 out her fleets. Next occurs Laertes (24), a fortress 
 situated upon a hill shaped like a woman's breast, 
 and having an anchorage below it; then the river 
 Selinus; then Cragus, a rock rising from the sea, 
 and precipitous on every side; and then the castle 
 of Charadrus, which has an anchorage below it. 
 
 See Strabo, p. 533 et seq. and page 64 of this volume. 
 
 \ 
 
178 
 
 Ch. 5 
 
 The mountain Andriclus rises above Charadrus, 
 beyond which is a rugged shore called Platanistus, 
 and the promontory Anemurium. Here the conti- 
 nent lies nearest to the coast of Cyprus, at the pro- 
 montory Crommyon, the distance being 350 stades. 
 From the frontier of Pamphylia to Anemurium, the 
 length of the coast of Cilicia is 820 stades; the re- 
 mainder, as far as Soli, is 500 stades (25). In this 
 spaceNagidus (2(5) is the first city which occurs after 
 Anemurium; then Arsinoe (27), having a station for 
 ships before it; then the place called Melania, and 
 Celenderis, a city with a harbour (28). Some con- 
 sider this place, and not Coracesium, as the begin- 
 ning of Cilicia. * * * Next occurs Holmi, where 
 the people of Seleuceia first dwelt, but who after 
 the erection of Seleuceia upon the Calycadnus 
 emigrated to that place. Immediately after turn- 
 ing the shore which forms a promontory, called 
 Sarpedon, is the mouth of the Calycadnus; near 
 the Calycadnus is Zephyrium, also a promontory; 
 the river is navigable up to Seleuceia, which is a 
 populous city (29). * * * Beyond the Calycadnus 
 is the rock Pcecile (30), cut into steps leading to 
 Seleuceia. Then occurs Anemurium, a cape, of 
 the same name as the former, and the island 
 Crambusa, and the promontory Corycus (31), 20 
 stades above which is the Corycian cave. * * * 
 Next to Corycus is Elseussa, an island near the 
 shore (32). The town was founded by Archelaus, 
 
Oh. 
 
 u. 
 
 179 
 
 and became his residence when he took all Cilicia 
 Tracheia, except Seleuceia, in the same manner as 
 Amyntas had it before him, and still earlier Cleo- 
 patra. * # * The boundary of Cilicia Tracheia is 
 between Soli and Elasussa, at the river Lamus, 
 where is a town of the same name. * * * Beyond 
 Lamus is the important city of Soli, the beginning 
 of Cilicia Issensis: it was founded by the Achseans, 
 and the Rhodii of Lindus. To this place, being in 
 a deserted state, Pompey the Great removed such 
 of the pirates as he thought most worthy of cle- 
 mency and protection, and named the place Pom- 
 peiopolis (33). * * * Next occurs Zephyrium, of the 
 same name as that at the Calycadnus (34) ; then 
 Anchiale, situated at a short distance from the shore 
 (35). * * * Above it is the fortress Cyinda, where 
 the Macedonians formerly kept their treasures, which 
 Eumenes seized, rebelling against Antigonus. 
 Above this place and Soli are mountainous districts, 
 where is the city Olbe, with a temple of Jupiter, 
 founded by Ajax the son of Teucer. * * * Next 
 to Anchiale are the mouths of the Cydnus, near 
 the place called Rhegma. This place, which resem- 
 bles a lake, preserves some remains of the naval 
 arsenal, which it formerly contained; it is now the 
 port of Tarsus. The river Cydnus, which rises in 
 the part of Mount Taurus above Tarsus, flows 
 through the middle of that city, and into the lake 
 (3G). * * * Beyond the Cydnus is the Pyramus, 
 
 n 2 
 
180 
 
 Ch. 5. 
 
 flowing from Cataonia (37). Artemidorus says that 
 the distance from this river to Soli, in a direct line, 
 is 500 stades. Near it is Mallus, situated upon a 
 height; it was founded by Amphilochus and Mop- 
 sus, who, having slain one another in single combat, 
 were buried so that the tomb of one should not be 
 visible from that of the other: — the sepulchres are 
 now shown near Magarsa and the Pyramus. * * * 
 Above this coast is the plain called Aleium, through 
 which Philotas led the cavalry of Alexander, while 
 the king himself conducted the phalanx from Soli 
 by the sea-coast and the Mallotis to Issus (38). 
 # # # Beyond Mallus is the town iEgaea?, which has 
 an anchorage below it, and then the gates (Pylse) 
 Amanides. Here also is an anchorage; and here 
 Mount Amanus terminates, which joins to Taurus, 
 and bounds Cilicia on the East. Next to iEgavae is 
 the small town of Issus, where the battle was fought 
 between Alexander and Darius. The gulf is called 
 Issic: in it are the towns Rhosus and Myriandrus, 
 and Alexandreia, and Nicopolis, and Mopsuestia 
 (39) : and the gates (Pylse) as they are called, which 
 are the boundary of Cilicia and Syria." 
 
Ch. 5. 
 
 181 
 
 NOTES. 
 
 (Note 1.) Persea (from Hepa) was the name of the coast of 
 Caria opposite to Rhodus, which for several centuries formed a 
 dependency of that opulent republic. In the time of Scylax, 
 the Rhodii possessed only the peninsula immediately in face of 
 their island. As a reward for their assistance in the Antiochian 
 war, the Romans gave them a part of Lycia and all Caria as 
 far as the Maeander. By having adopted a less prudent policy 
 in the second Macedonic war, they lost it all, including Cau- 
 nus, the chief town of Pereea. It was not long, however, be- 
 fore it was restored to them, together with the small islands 
 near Rhodus ; and from this time Peraea retained the limits 
 which Strabo has described, namely, Dsedala on the east, and 
 Mount Loryma on the west, both included. Vespasian finally 
 reduced Rhodus itself into the provincial form, and joined it to 
 Caria. Liv. 1. 38. c. 39.— 1. 45. c. 20, 25. Cicero, Ep. ad 
 Fratrem. 1. 1. c. 1. Sueton. in Vespas. c. 8. 
 
 (2) The names and distances on this part of the coast, in the 
 anonymous Periplus or Stadiasmus, which proceeds in a con- 
 trary direction to Strabo (or from east to west), are as follows : 
 
 ' A7ro Ilxrx^uu Jxi 7roTXfiOi/ ■z'huTov UKiQKSirxi Trohi; Hxudog arxo. 
 i(60.) 
 
 'Atto tov TTOTXf&ov Sxvrov fi( TLvhvcti iynudiixq arxO. £.(60.) 
 
 'A« Tlvhvuv 'iug rij; ' \i^x; xx.()xg orxh. tt. (80.) 
 
 'As-o ' Isgxg xkqx; ii; KxXx'txvrixv arxO. *. (30.) 
 
 'A'fl-o Kx7ix&xvTt6>u eU Us^ikix; arxh. v. (50.) 
 
 'Asrd lli(^ix.iu>!) ii; Kiotrihx; otx%. v. (50.) 
 
 'Axo Kiaaihav ii; vijvov Axyovaxv arxh. ir, (80.) 
 
 'A7ro Axyovouv it; TtKtfMWtov <ftx0. i. (o.) 
 
 Here it may be observed, that, reckoning about ten stades 
 to the geographical mile, the total coasting distance of 355 
 stades between Telmissus and the Xanthus is not incorrect 
 when applied to the map ; that the 1 40 stades from the Xan- 
 thus to Cape Hiera, carries us to the most projecting point of 
 fhe Efta Kavi, or .Screw Capes, as the eight promontories of 
 
182 
 
 Ch.5. 
 
 Mount Cragus mentioned by Strabo are now called ; and that 
 the 130 stades from Cape Hiera to Cissides, and the 85 stades 
 from Cissidcs to Telmissus, — concur in showing that Cissides 
 was the name of the peninsular promontory, on the south side 
 of which is the island and harbour of St. Nicholas. As the 
 ruins upon this cape and island, which I visited in coasting 
 from Castcl Rosso to Makri, indicate a late period of the 
 Roman Empire, it is probable that the town did not exist in 
 the time of Strabo ; for the position will not answer to that of 
 Carmylessus, which, according to the Geographer, was in a 
 qapay^i or narrow valley, of Mount Anticragus. The exact 
 situation of Carmylessus, therefore, still remains unknown j 
 as well as that of the cities of Cragus, of Pinara at the foot of 
 Mount Cragus, and of Tlos at the passage of the mountains 
 leading from the sea-coast into the Cibyratis*. According 
 to Artemidorus, — Pinara, Tlos, Patara, Xanthus, Myra, and 
 Olympus were the six great cities of Lycia : so that Tel- 
 missus, which is styled a 7roA*'%vij, probably had not in the time 
 of Artemidorus reached that importance which its theatre shows 
 that it afterwards enjoyed. The ruins remarked by Captain 
 Beaufort under Mount Cragus, at the northern extremity of 
 the sandy beach which extends to the river Xanthus, seem to 
 answer to the Pydnse of the Stadiasmus : it is perhaps the 
 same as the Cydna, which Ptolemy places among the cities of 
 Mount Cragus. 
 
 (3) The port of Patara, which was too small to contain the 
 allied fleet of the Romans, Rhodii, and other Greek states under 
 the command of L. /Emilius Regillus in the Antiochian war f, 
 is now entirely choked up by encroaching sands. The ruins 
 of the city are extensive ; consisting of the town-walls, and of 
 numerous sepulchres on the outside ; and within, of the remains 
 of several public buildings. Among these is a theatre, in good 
 preservation, and nearly of the same size as that of Telmissus ; 
 it is 295 feet in diameter, with thirty-four rows of scats, 
 
 * Th&v, kcctx tyiv v%i^:otu tyi» tig Ki'tvqxu KUfAi'JYiv- Artemid. 
 
 ap. Strab. p. 605. - t Liv. 1. 37. c. 17- 
 
Ch. 5. 183 
 
 and a proscenium, upon which a long inscription shows that 
 the theatre was built by Q. Velius Titianus, and dedicated 
 by his daughter Velia Procla, in the fourth consulate of 
 the Emperor Antoninus Pius (a.d. 145). Appian remarks, 
 that Patara was like a port to Xanthus ; which city appears 
 from Strabo and the Stadiasmus to have been on the banks of 
 the river Xanthus, eight or nine miles above Patara. Ruins 
 are known to exist in this situation, but they have not yet been 
 described by any modern traveller. According to Arrian *, it 
 seems to have been on the left bank of the river : for Alexander 
 crossed the river Xanthus from Telmissus, before he took the 
 cities Pinara, Xanthus, and Patara. Hence, also, we have 
 some light on the site of Pinara. 
 
 (4) Myra still preserves its ancient name, together with the 
 ruins of a theatre 355 feet in diameter; the remains of several 
 public buildings, and numerous inscribed sepulchres, on some of 
 which are the Lycian characters, found also at Limyra, Telmis- 
 sus, and Cyana. The distance of the ruins of Myra from the sea 
 corresponds very accurately with the twenty stades of Strabo. 
 
 Andriace, described as the port of Myra by Appian f , and which 
 is named also by Pliny and Ptolemy, is still called Andraki. On 
 the banks of the river by which Lentulus ascended to Myra, after 
 breaking the chain which closed the port, are the ruins of a large 
 building, which appears by an inscription to have been a granary 
 of Hadrian. Here are also several other remains of antiquity. 
 
 (5) There is no variation in the MSS. of Strabo in this 
 place, and Isocrates also names KurOr^y) in a manner which 
 leads one to believe that he is speaking of a place on this 
 coast j. Later writers, however, make no mention of Cis- 
 thene ; and Ptolemy §, Pliny ||, and StephanusHj agree in 
 showing that Megiste and Dolichiste were the two principal 
 
 * Arrian. de Exp. Alex. I. I.e. 24. 
 
 f Appian. Bel. Civ. 1. 4. c. 82. J Pancgyr. §. 41. 
 
 § Ptol. !. 5. c. 3. || Plin. Hist. Nat. I. 5. c. 31 
 
 *F Stephan. in ^ohiyjom et Mf/iorn. 
 
184 
 
 Ch. 5. 
 
 islands on the coast of Lycia : the former word (greatest) well 
 describing the island of Kasteloryzo, or Castel Rosso, as the 
 latter word (longest) does that of Kakava. Nor is Scylax less 
 precise in pointing out Kasteloryzo as Megiste; which name is 
 found in an inscription copied by Mr. Cockerell from a rock at 
 Castel Rosso *. It would seem, therefore, that this island was 
 anciently known by both names (Megiste and Cisthene), but in 
 later times perhaps chiefly by that of Megiste. Its convenience 
 to maritime war and commerce must have secured its importance 
 in every age ; whence its mention in the narrative, by Livy f, of 
 the transactions of the Rhodian fleet against Antiochus, would 
 alone perhaps have been sufficient, without other evidence, to 
 identify Castel Rosso with Megiste, although the historian de- 
 scribes Megiste as a port only, not as an island. The anonymous 
 Periplus, or Stadiasmus, has accurately enumerated the islands 
 between Antiphellus and Patara, in the passage cited in a fol- 
 lowing Note. His Rhope and islands of Xenagoras are evi- 
 dently the Rhoge and Enagora of Pliny. Rhoge is now called 
 St. George. The two islands of Xenagoras, now named Volo 
 and O'khendra, are situated at the mouth of the bay of Kala- 
 maki ; the situation of which harbour, two miles eastward of 
 the ruins of Patara, accords, no less than its steep rocky shore, 
 with the description of Port Phcenicus, from whence, in the 
 course of the operations against Antiochus, C. Livius made an 
 unsuccessful attempt upon Patara \ . 
 
 * With a little correction it was as follows; but the beginning of 
 the third line still wants explanation : 
 
 2H2IKAH2 NIKAPOTA 
 
 2AMI02 EIII2TATH2A2 
 
 ENTEKA2TABI KAI EHI 
 
 TOT ITTPrOT TOT EN ME- 
 
 -FI2TAI EPMAI nPOIlT- 
 
 -AAIfll XAPI2THPION 
 The Doric dialect may be accounted for by Megiste being in posses- 
 sion, and probably a colony, of the Rhodii. I found the ruins of a 
 Hellenic tower here, at the end of a small plain: perhaps the tower 
 mentioned in the inscription. 
 f Liv. 1. 37. c. 22, 24, 25. J Liv. 1. 3/. c. 1G. 
 
Ch. 5. 
 
 185 
 
 (6) Strabo is inaccurate in placing Antiphellus among the 
 inland towns, ev tv ustroyccia,, in contradiction to Ptolemy, 
 Plinv, and the author of the Stadiasmus. There can be no 
 doubt of the ruins on the coast opposite to Castel Rosso being 
 those of Antiphellus : the ancient name is still preserved in 
 the corrupted form of Andifilo ; at which place I distinguished 
 on many of the ancient tombs the word 'AvrtfBXXslr^;, which is 
 found to be the ethnic adjective in Stephanus of Byzantium. 
 
 (7) The name of the Chelidoniae insula? has been trans- 
 ferred to Cape Hiera, or the Sacred Promontory, which is now 
 called Cape Khelidhoni. The following is the description of 
 the coast between Patara and the Sacred Promontory in the 
 Stadiasmus, which, as I have already observed, travels in an 
 opposite direction to Strabo, or from east to west : — 
 
 A« Be rijz ' Ii(>oc; xk^x; sv MsXav/wwi) arxh. 7i. (30.) 
 
 Act Zi Mihcti/iTTTTYiz si; Yxyx; a rath, f . (60.) 
 
 A7ro hs Ms^xviwri; ivl Tx/nov (leg. 7zoixp.6v) xhj^v^ov orxh. |. (60.) 
 
 l/XSJ CTXd. |. (60.) KtlTttl 7T0Xi; ' AXfAVgX KCthOVf&ivYl. 
 
 AtTO MsXXV(7T7r/i; (tOV AlftV(>0V?) it; TTVfJyOV TO "laiOV KXXOVfiSVOH 
 
 arxl. t (60.) 
 
 Atto rot/ laiov vv^yov si;' Ao~(>ixkyiv aroth. |. (60.) 
 Arro AdQtxKijs si; loy-rivxi) arxh. 5.(4.) 
 Atto 16{t.r,vxv si; ' Awsg?t«ff vrxo. |. (60.) 
 A%6 ' Ak^ut/i(i tov it; ' AvTtipshXou aTxh. v. (50.) 
 'Act ' AvTttps'AMv si; vijaou Meys'o-ryji/ srxh. v. (50.) 
 Afro Msyso-fti; si; vqaov ' Pottyiv ijtxo*. v. (50.) 
 Act Powjjj si; rov Ssvxyooov virtoov; orxh. t. (300.) 
 Aaro rov Ssuxyo^ou v/iaav si; Wxrx^xv otxO.S,. (60.) 
 
 The greater part of the distances towards the beginning of 
 this extract are quite unintelligible. Melanippe, however, 
 seems to accord with the bay on the north side of Cape Khe- 
 lidhoni. This place may possibly have been the port of Gaga?, 
 which was a city of some celebrity *, and appears from Scylax 
 to have been near the coast, between Limyra and the Cheli- 
 doniae. Being also named by Pliny f as near Olympus and 
 
 * Stephan. Byzant. with the Notes of Holstein. 
 
 f Oppidiun Olympus ubi fuit, nunc sunt niontana : Gage, Cory- 
 
186 
 
 Ch. 5. 
 
 Corydalla, — which last place, according to the Peutinger Tabic, 
 was 29 miles from Phaselis on the road to Patera, — the site of 
 Gagae will accord very well with the ruins marked in Captain 
 Beaufort's survey at Aladja, five miles from the centre of the 
 Bay of Finika. Following the same direction into the interior, 
 we ought to meet with the remains of Corydalla, coins of which 
 city are still extant. Rhodiopolis, also, called llhodia by Ste- 
 phanus and Ptolemy, which Pliny names next to Corydalla, 
 and which Ptolemy enumerates together with Corydalla, among 
 the cities adjacent to Mount Masicytus, — would also probably 
 be found in the neighbouring part of the interior of Lycia *. 
 And here it may be observed, that the position of several of the 
 towns which Ptolemy enumerates around Mount Masicytus +, 
 are now determined with a degree of accuracy sufficient at least 
 to show the situation and extent of that mountain, a very lofty 
 projection of which separates the bays of Finika and Myra, un- 
 der the name of ("ape Finika. 
 
 Following the Stadiasmus to the westward, we cannot doubt 
 that his river Almyrus is a corruption of Limyrus, mentioned, 
 together with the town of Limyra, by Pliny and Stephanus, as 
 well as by Strabo. The remains of Limyra are found at Finika, 
 on the river which enters the bay of Finika at its western an- 
 
 dalla, Rhodiopolis. Juxta mare Limyra cum amne, in quern Arycan- 
 dus influit, et Mons Massyeites, Andriaca, civitas Myra. Oppida 
 Apyre, Antiphellus, quae quondam Habessus («/. Edebessus) atque in 
 recessu Phellus. Deinde Pyrrha itemque Xanthus a man xv. M. P. 
 flumenquc eodem nomine. Deinde Patara, &c. Plin. Hist. Nat. 
 1. 5. c. 27. 
 
 * The following fragment in honour of a person who had received 
 the rites of citizenship in Rhodiopolis, Myra, and Phaselis, was found 
 by Mr. Cockerell in the ruins of Olympus at Deliktash. 
 
 OIIPAMOAN ATIOAAfiNIOT 
 AI2 TOT KAAAIAAOT POAIO 
 nOAEITIIN KAI MTPEA (*««') 
 •DA2HAEITHN 
 
 f The following are the names in their order: — Corydalla, Saga- 
 Iassus, Rhodia, Trcbcnda {al, Arendar), Phellus, Myra, 
 
Ch. 5. 
 
 187 
 
 gle : not, however, at a distance of sixty stades from the river's 
 mouth, as the Stadiasmus indicates, but, as Strabo remarks, at 
 twentv. Some of the curious sepulchres inscribed in the Ly- 
 cian character and dialect, which Mr. Cockerell found here, 
 have been published by him in the 2d volume of Walpole's 
 Collection (p. 524). A stream which joins the sea close to the 
 mouth of the Limyrus, seems to be the Arycandus of Pliny *, 
 which name we learn to have been that of a Lycian city, from 
 Hierocles, from Stephanus, and from the Scholiast of Pindar f, 
 who speaks also of a sacred place called Embolus in its vici- 
 nity. That Arycanda was in this part of the country, might be 
 presumed likewise from an inscription found by Mr. Cockerell J 
 at Limyra, in honour of a person who had acquired the rites of 
 citizenship at Arycanda and Olympus. Some vestiges of Ary- 
 canda, therefore, might possibly be found on the banks of 
 the river above mentioned. I am inclined to think that the 
 name of a town near Mount Masicytus, which in some of the 
 copies of Ptolemy is TpiSevSx, and in others 'ApsvSai, ought to 
 be 'ApvxdvSai. Pliny places Arycanda (perhaps improperly) 
 in Milyas. 
 
 In Captain Beaufort's survey, we find the beach of Myra 
 bounded to the west by a small rocky cape, called Py'rgo. 
 This seems to be the tower named Isium (s'tg Uvpyov rb "lew 
 xxXovpevov) in the Stadiasmus ; though in arriving at that con- 
 jecture we must overlook the distance from Andriace there 
 stated. As to the distance of the same tower from Melanippe, 
 I take that word to have been a mistake of the copier of the 
 Stadiasmus for Limyrus : the repetition of Melanippe a second 
 time was necessary, because Gagae being an inland place, the 
 Periplus was obliged to revert to Melanippe : and this second 
 
 * Limyra cum amne, in quern Arycandus influit. Plin. Hist. Nat. 
 1. 5. c. 29. 
 
 'Y . . . .lv AvKtct, oi iartu irtihis Aqvx.cc,vo» au^ov/^ii/ri, v; v"hr,aiov It- 
 
 QOV Tl XCOniOV, TTQOTiQOU fttlt "EfCoO'AO( iKCChtlTO VICC T'/JJ/ St'ovj/ rov yju- 
 
 qiov. Scliol. in Pindar. Olymp. Od. T. 
 
 \ M'ATP'TOAAt2 A12 OATM 
 IIHN02 KAJ APTKANAETS 
 
188 
 
 Ch. 5. 
 
 repetition may have led to an erroneous repetition a third time ; 
 for it is to be observed that the total distance from Cape Hiera 
 to Andriace minus that from Melanippe to Gagae is correct. 
 And so is the distance (120 stades) from Limyrus to Andriace, 
 assuming the correction which I have mentioned. 
 
 To the westward of Andriace we have two ancient sites deter- 
 mined by inscribed sepulchres, which record the name of the city, 
 and the inscriptions upon which have been copied by Mr. Cocke- 
 rell:— that of Cyana, or the city rtZv KTANEITfiN, at the head 
 of Port Tristomo, as the inner part of the bay behind the island 
 
 of Kakava, is now called ; and that of Aperlae, or the city 
 
 rwv AIIEPAEITON at the head of Assar Bay. In our copies of 
 Pliny, the former name is written Cyane j in Hierocles and the 
 Notitiae Episcopatuum it is Cyaneae. The Stadiasmus has omit- 
 ted it, probably because it is at a considerable distance from the 
 open sea. Aperlae is erroneously written by Ptolemy Aperrae, by 
 Pliny Apyrae ; in the Notitiae the bishopric is styled 'hitpiWiZv : 
 in Hierocles and the Stadiasmus we find the orthography correct. 
 The Somena of the Stadiasmus we can hardly doubt to be the 
 same place as the Simena mentioned as a Lycian city by Pliny 
 (1. 5. c. 27.), and by Stephanas. Simena is placed by the Sta- 
 diasmus at four stades to the westward of Andriace, precisely 
 in which situation we find some sepulchres marked in the sur- 
 vey of Captain Beaufort. A further examination of these mo- 
 numents might perhaps discover the name of Simena as that 
 of the ancient town which stood here. 
 
 (8) The Stadiasmus describes the places between Attaleia 
 and Cape Hiera as follows : — 
 
 ' Atto ' ArToLhiict; Ivl x^^iov TLveoou o-rxh. k. (20.) 
 
 'A7rd Tivtbov tig Av^vxvrx x&yniov otxo. |. (60.) imt^ rsjj Tro'htag 
 
 o'oog ftiyx v7T£»ksitx( tyxoibtg sx. §s' Qxat'hfiiog tig Kuovkov otxo. (derst.) 
 'Ato Kuqukov tvl tov <bowiKOVVTX vrxh. 7\. (30.) inrto^ fciyx ooog 
 
 v-^/fi>.6v Ktirxt "(yKvffxo; x-x^ov/ati/ov. Ex. he <I>«<rA/Soj sir ' tvSeixg tig 
 
 KoxfiZovoxv o-Tct6. £.(100.) 
 
 ' Atto Kt>ctf6eOVi7Yi; ivl x^? x ? Ylooibxoioovwrog arxh. A. (30.) 
 
 ' A^d TioaiOx^iaovi/rog exi Ma(>6» vbco(> K»\ovy<ivov crxh. A. (30.) 
 
 'Axd Muoov vbetToz 'fzi xkqxv ' Iiqxu kxi vvjuov Xt~htoovtxv otxo. v. 
 
 (50.) 
 
Ch. 
 
 189 
 
 Captain Beaufort discovered the ruins of Olympus at Delik- 
 tash, and those of Phaselis atTekrova ; the inscriptions at either 
 place leaving no doubt of the identity. The opog psya., in the 
 second paragraph of the above passage of the Stadiasmus, is 
 Mount Solyma, which extends 70 miles to the northward, but 
 the highest part of which, now called Taghtalu, is immediately 
 above the ruins of Phaselis. From the third paragraph of the 
 preceding passage of the Stadiasmus compared with Strabo, it 
 appears that the names Phcenicus and Olympus were applied 
 indifferently, both to the city which stood at Deliktash and to 
 the mountain above it. In the inscriptions, however, and in 
 the coins of this city, Olympus only occurs. In several of the 
 inscriptions found at Deliktash, the name of the people is 
 written OATNIIHNOI, in others, as well as on the existing 
 coins, it is OATM11HNOI, and thus also we find the name in 
 the ancient authors. Scylax, in the place of Olympus, names 
 the cape and harbour of Siderus * ; and it cannot be doubted 
 that he meant the bay of Deliktash or Olympus ; for he adds 
 that in the mountain above there was a temple of Vulcan, at 
 which there was a perpetual fire issuing from the earth, exactly 
 as Captain Beaufort discovered it, at a short distance above the 
 ruins of Olympus. 
 
 (9) Crambusa is an island still known by its ancient name, 
 slightly corrupted. It is probably the same as the Dionysia of 
 Scylax and Pliny. 
 
 (10) Strabo in a subsequent passage (p.C71) remarks, that 
 all Lycia, Pamphylia, and Pisidia, were visible from Mount 
 Olympus j and that upon it was the fortress of a celebrated pi- 
 rate named Zenicetus. 
 
 (11) The Corycus of the Stadiasmus corresponds exactly in 
 situation with that which Strabo describes as a coast (Kwcuxof 
 aiyaXoi) between Olympus and Phaselis j and Lyrnas is evi- 
 
 * Stephanus of Byzantium describes 2/B'<^&2j as a city and har- 
 bour, but he omits to add in what country it was situated. 
 
190 
 
 Ch. 5. 
 
 clently the representative of Lyrnessus; which Homer mentions 
 together vvitliThehe. According to Strabo, Thebe and Lyrnessus 
 were supposed to have been between Phaselis and Attaleia. 
 
 (12) Arrian (1. 1. c. 26.) relates the same occurrence in the 
 following manner : " Alexander moving from Phaselis, sent 
 part of his army through the mountain to Perge, the Thracians 
 pointing out the road, which was difficult, but not long. Those 
 attached to his person, were led by himself along the sea-side. 
 This road cannot be used, except when the wind is northerly ; 
 when the south wind blows, it is impracticable. When Alexander 
 arrived there, a north wind succeeding to violent south winds, 
 rendered the passage short and easy ; an accident which, by 
 Alexander and his court, was considered as having happened 
 by the interposition of some deity." 
 
 The incident is well illustrated by the actual geography ; for 
 the whole coast, from the ruins of Phaselis to the western corner 
 of the plain of Attaleia, consists of a lofty mountain, rising 
 abruptly from the shore. Arrian, in saying that the passage 
 was not long through the mountains from Phaselis into the 
 plains where Perge was situated, shows that there was a pass 
 in Mount Solyma not far from Attaleia ; for Alexander was not 
 yet in possession of Termessus, which commanded the prin- 
 cipal pass of Mount Solyma, and the detour that way instead 
 of being short would have been very long. 
 
 (13.) The position of Olbia is still uncertain ; but as Strabo 
 and Ptolemy agree in placing it at the beginning of Pamphylia, 
 between Attaleia and the Lycian frontier, I am inclined to think 
 that its remains may still be found (especially if Strabo has 
 truly described it as a great fortress) in some part of the plain 
 which extends for seven miles from the modern Adalia to the 
 foot of Mount Solyma. Stephanns, who states that the name 
 is properly Olba, not Olbia, adds that it did not belong to 
 Pamphylia, but to the country of the Solymi — a strong pre- 
 sumption that it stood upon or at the foot of Mount Solyma. 
 As the Stadiasmus was a Periplus, the omission of Olbia is at 
 once explained, if we suppose it to have been situated at some 
 
Ch.5. 
 
 191 
 
 distance from the coast: and as Captain Beaufort's survey was 
 equally a Periplus, the same circumstance would account for 
 the site of Olbia having eluded his researches. The following 
 is the, description of the coast between Coracesium and Attaleia 
 in the Stadiasmus: 
 
 ' Ato Kot>ctKw!ov si; Avvwiu hrl %u^iov ' Avx^/ov arxl. tt. (80.) 
 
 * Atto ' Avx^iau sic %&)(>ioy Kx7\ovp.svov Avyx; aruh. o. (70.) 
 ' A wo AvyZv stti ci>i(>c>T'/i(>tov AsvkgSsiov arxh. v. (50.) 
 
 ' Avo Asvx.odiiov si; Ku^sqvxv rrrxd. v. (50.) 
 ' Atto KvZsgvri; sicl ' Agriftiooc i/xou arxh. v. (50.) 
 'Awo ' Aqrsfiftio; vxov sttI Trorxf^ov vT^arov Ms7\xuov arx^t. 6. (9.) 
 * * * 
 
 Aoitov YlxfiCpv'hlx. 
 
 * Atto tou 'Ms'hxuo; vorx/xov si; 2/S>j» gtxo. v. (50.) 
 
 'Awo 2/Bn? si; 1i~hsvKsix'j orxo. w. (80.) 
 A7T0 "SshtVXftccs si; 7roTXfc6i/ ifharov x.x~kovy.svov Rii^vf/AoouTx orxb. 
 
 e .(100.) 
 
 Awo Kvvoodgt'ov £9ri vrorxfAoy Kxh ov (.(.svd'j Ksaroov otx&. £. (GO.) 
 usixvr'Ksvaxurc tou tiotx^ov vroht; sari TLsqyn rov KeVrfov ski ' Pova- 
 
 XQ7T00X. 
 
 'Aro ' Pot/<7XoVoo*o j sirl Islxaovqxu Kotl rov; Kxrxppxx.rx; oTxh. v. 
 (50.) 
 
 'Awo 1 Nxoovqx; si; Mv/Zx^mu arxd. o. (70.) 
 Atto Mvyo'xKau si; ' AttxKsixu arxh. t. (10.) 
 
 (14.) Pomponius Mela gives a similar description of the 
 Catarrhactes : — " Deinde duo validissimi fluvii, Cestros et Ca- 
 tarrhactes : Cestros navigari facilis , hie quia se praecipitat ita 
 dictus. Inter eos, Perga est oppidum." The Stadiasmus af- 
 fords a still more accurate allusion to its present state, by using 
 the plural rove KarappxKtas, the Cataracts. The river on ap- 
 proaching the coast divides itself into several branches, which 
 in falling over the cliff's that border the coast from Laara to 
 Adalia, form upon their upper part a mass of calcareous depo- 
 sition, projecting considerably beyond the perpendicular line of 
 the cliffs. Through the calcareous crust, the water makes its 
 way to the sea ; and being thus separated into several streams 
 by a natural process, which has been rapidly increasing in its 
 operation in the course of time, the river has now no determi- 
 
192 
 
 Ch. 5. 
 
 nate mouth (as it may perhaps have had in former ages), unless 
 it be after heavy rains, when, as I saw it in passing along the 
 coast, it precipitates itself copiously over the cliffs near the 
 most projecting point of the coast a little to the west of Laara. 
 Besides this natural peculiarity which divides the Catarrhactes 
 into many branches, its main stream is further diminished by 
 the derivations which turn the mills and supply water to the 
 gardens and town of Adalia. 
 
 (15) 1 am aware that this passage has been differently in- 
 terpreted. The words of Strabo are these : Elra iroXig 'Arret - 
 Asia, Biruivvi^os rov xtltravros $iXa.8e\<pov xa) oixjVavfOf sis 
 Kcvpvxov tfoAr^wov aAAijv xaroixlav 0[^ooov xa) [uxpov irspi£oXov 
 Ttepdkvroc. That the meaning of the geographer was that which 
 I have given, seems confirmed by Demetrius, as quoted by Ste- 
 phanus in the following words, in which, however, he has mis- 
 named Cilicia for Pamphylia : 'ArraAeia of §s ryv 
 
 KiXixixs Kwpvxov ovtuj <px<r) Aeyeerflai, w; ATjpjrpiof dito 
 'ArraAoy $»Aa$iA<poy xritravTOs ccvtyjV. It seems, therefore, 
 that Attalus sent a colony to occupy the shore of the harbour 
 of Adalia, near a small town then called Corycus ; that Corycus 
 also received a part of the colony, and that he inclosed that town 
 and his new settlement within the same walls. The passage of 
 Strabo is further illustrated by Suidas, (in Kupvxouos ,) who says 
 that Corycus was a cape of Pamphylia, where Attaleia was built : 
 Kwgvxos yxp fyjs $a/xpuAi'aj dxpourripiov 7Tap w itoXig 'ArraXsicc. 
 
 Captain Beaufort expresses his conviction that the modern 
 Adalia stands on the site of Olbia ; and he places Attaleia at 
 some ancient ruins, which he discovered at Laara, to f he east- 
 ward of the Catarrhactes. D'Anville, as well as M. Gosselin 
 (See the new French translation of Strabo, 1. 14. c. 4.), are of a 
 similar opinion. This opinion is founded entirely upon the 
 order of names in Strabo, though he is contradicted by the 
 evidence of Ptolemy*, of the Stadiasmus, and of the modern 
 
 * The order of names in Ptolemy on this coast is, Phaselis, Olbia, 
 Attalia, the month of the Catarrhactes, Magydis, the mouth of the 
 Cestrus, the month of the Eurymedon, Side. Pro!. 1. 5. c. 5. 
 
Cli. 5 
 
 \o:\ 
 
 name of Adalia. To me it appears that the ruins at Laara, 
 whose position possesses no advantages adapted to the seat of 
 a colony, are too inconsiderable for those of a city, the impor- 
 tance of which may be traced from the time of its Pergamenian 
 founder, through the history of the Greeks, Romans, Crusaders, 
 and Byzantines, down to the Turkish conquest of Constanti- 
 nople, without any indication or probability of a change of 
 situation. Adalia possesses all the natural advantages likely 
 to have made it the chief settlement of the adjacent country, 
 when the power of Asia became embodied under the successors 
 of Alexander. The walls and other fortifications — the magni- 
 ficent gate or triumphal arch, bearing an inscription in honour 
 of Hadrian — the aqueduct — the numerous fragments of sculp- 
 ture and architecture — the inscribed marbles found in many 
 parts of the town — the Episcopal church, now converted into a 
 mosque — the European coats of arms seen upon this church 
 and upon the city walls — and lastly, the bishopric of Attaleia 
 (ttjV ' ArrxXsixs) , of which Adalia is still the see — appear to 
 me incontrovertible evidences of identity*. In regard to the 
 names Adalia and Satalia applied to the place by the Turks and 
 Italians respectively, it may not be unworthy of observation 
 that they are both taken immediately from the Greek ; the 
 former from the nominative or accusative case (ij 'ArraXe/a, or 
 (tttjv ' AtTccXiiav) , which were the forms most frequently used 
 by the Greeks in speaking of the town itself ; the latter from 
 the genitive case (rijV 'AT'ta.Xsla; ) , this being perhaps the case 
 which the Italian navigators are chiefly in the habit of hearing 
 the Greeks employ in speaking of the gulf or port (of the xop- 
 <pog or TTopros Tr t $ ' ArraXilzs). The great difference of sound 
 in the two modern words has been the necessary consequence 
 of the difference between the accent of the gen. case of the 
 Greek word, and that of the nom. or ace. The Turkish name 
 Adalia is precisely the Greek, except that the Turks have hard- 
 ened the tt into d. 
 
 The vestiges of an ancient town and port, which Captain 
 
 * Voyage au Levant, par C. Lebruyn, c. 74. Voyage en Grece, 
 &c. par Paul Lucas, torn. 1. c. 33. Beaufort's Karamania, c. 6. 
 Itineraire dc l'Asie Mineure, par Corancez, 1. 4. c. 2. 
 
 
 
194 
 
 Ch. 5. 
 
 Beaufort observed at Laara, answer to the Magydus of Ptolemy, 
 a place which flourished under the Byzantine Empire, and was 
 a bishopric of the province of Pamphylia*. The Masura of 
 the Stadiasmus, and the Ma<nj<5o; of Scylax, appear to be the 
 same place as Magydus. 
 
 (16) Although the ancient geography of the coast of Pam- 
 phylia cannot be thoroughly illustrated until the position of its 
 chief towns is examined and ascertained, there seems little 
 doubt that the four rivers mentioned by Strabo, — namely the 
 Cestrus, the Eurymedon, a third river not named with islands 
 before it, and the Melas, — are accurately fixed by the survey of 
 Captain Beaufort and the route of General Koehlcr, confronted 
 with Strabo, the Stadiasmus, Zosimusf, and Pomponius Mela:}:. 
 The Cestrus is that which General Koehler crossed at two hours 
 to the west of Stavros, and the ruins which he had on his left 
 hand in crossing it seem to be those of Perge. The Eurymedon 
 is called Kapri-su, a name derived from the ancient city of 
 Capria, which, as well as can be understood from the imperfect 
 text of Strabo, stood at the distance of about two miles from 
 the sea, upon the banks of a lake of the same name, which oc- 
 cupies a part of the maritime region between the Eurymedon 
 and Cestrus. The name of Kapri has, hy a process not un- 
 common, been transferred from the lake or city to the neigh- 
 bouring river Eurymedon. The remains of Aspendus ought to 
 be found at six or eight miles from the mouth of the Eurymedon, 
 on a lofty precipitous height on the banks of the river §. Higher 
 up was Pednelissus. But the most interesting discovery in this 
 part of the country would be Selge, a colony from Laconia, 
 situate on the frontiers of Pisidia and Pamphylia, in a very fer- 
 tile district, difficult of approach, in the upper regions of Mount 
 Taurus, near the sources of the Cestrus and Eurymedon ||. 
 
 * Hicrocl. Synced.— Notit. Episc. Graec. 
 f lib. 5. c. 10. J lib. 1. c. 14. 
 
 § Pomp. Mel. 1. 1. c. 14. Arrian. Exp. Alex. 1. 1. c. 27. 
 || Strabo, p. 570. Polyb. 1. 5. c. 72. Dionys. Perieg. v. 858. 
 Arrian. lib. 1. c. 28. Zosim. I. 5. c. 15. 
 
Ch. o. 
 
 195 
 
 (17) There can be little doubt that the river without a name 
 here mentioned, is that which is marked on the map between 
 Side and the Eurymedon, although instead of any islands be- 
 fore it, nothing is now seen but some rocks below or even with 
 the water's surface. In proceeding by sea from Alaya to Castel 
 Rosso, I remained for two or three days in the mouth of this 
 river, in a two-masted vessel of Alaya of about 50 tons. It is 
 the only river which affords shelter, or even entrance to a boat j 
 the Cestrus and Eurymedon, although much larger streams, 
 being now closed by bars. It is very probable that the remains 
 of Sylleium would be found upon the banks of this river, for 
 which we have no name either ancient or modern ; for Sylleium 
 appears both from Scylax and Arrian * to have been situate 
 between Side and the Eurymedon j and as it continued to be a 
 place of importance under the Byzantine empire, and became 
 the principal bishopric of the province of Pamphylia upon the 
 decline of Perge, and superior even in rank to Attaleiaf, I have 
 little doubt that its site might be ascertained. According to 
 the Stadiasmus, there stood also between Side and the Eury- 
 medon one of the numerous places named Seleuceia. This 
 may perhaps have been the port of Sylleium. The relative 
 distances of the Stadiasmus, w T hich are tolerably correct on this 
 part of the coast, would place Seleuceia in the bay to the east- 
 ward of the nameless river. At the mouth of that river I did 
 not observe any remains of antiquity. 
 
 (18) The fine ruins of Side have been described by Captain 
 Beaufort. Its site is decisively fixed by the inscriptions found 
 there. The extensive moles and artificial harbours, of which 
 the remains still exist, illustrate the remark of Strabo, that 
 Side was the chief port and place of construction of the piratic 
 fleets ; and its magnificent theatre, 400 feet in diameter, indi- 
 cates that under the more civilised government of the Romans 
 it still continued to be the chief city of this coast. Though the 
 Turks are so ignorant as to give it the name of Eski Adalia 
 
 * Scylax Perip. Pamphylia. Arrian, 1. 1. c. 26. 
 
 f Hierocl.Synecd. — Constantin.Porph.dcThem. — Notit.Episcop. 
 
 o 2 
 
196 
 
 CI 
 
 i. £> 
 
 (0."d Attaleia), the name of Side was not unknown to their 
 gegraphers 150 years ago, being mentioned by Hadji Khalfa. 
 The Greeks give the name of Ua.Xa.id 'ArrxXsia, to the ruins of 
 Perge. 
 
 (19) There can be no doubt that the Melas is the river now 
 called Menavgat-su, for Zosimus and Mela* agree in showing 
 its proximity to Side. Strabo, Mela, and the Stadiasmus, all 
 place it to the eastward of Side ; and the distance of 50 stades 
 in the Stadiasmus between the Melas and "Side, is precisely that 
 which occurs between the ruins of Side and the mouth of the 
 river of Menavgat. 
 
 Cape Karaburnu being the most remarkable projection upon 
 this coast, seems to be the promontory Leucotheius of the 
 Stadiasmus, although the modern name implies black and the 
 ancient white. The situation of Karaburnu relatively to Cora- 
 cesium and the Melas, agrees also with that of Leucotheius 
 with regard to the same places in the Stadiasmus. It is pro- 
 bably the same as the Cape Leucolla of Pliny f. 
 
 If the KvZspva of the Stadiasmus is the same as the Little 
 Cibyra of Strabo, as we can hardly doubt, there is a manifest 
 disagreement between the two authorities in regard to the po- 
 sition of its territory. It is probable that the text of Strabo is 
 in fault, and that in the order of names the coast of Lesser Ci- 
 byra should follow instead of preceding the Melas ; for it is 
 difficult to believe that any other territory should have been 
 interposed between that of so large a city as Side and a river 
 which was only four miles distant from it. The vestiges of 
 Cibyra are probably those observed by Captain Beaufort upon 
 a height which rises from the right bank of a considerable river 
 about 8 miles to the eastward of the Melas, about 4 miles to 
 the westward of Cape Karaburnu, and nearly 2 miles from the 
 shore. Ptolemy j places Cibyra among the inland towns of 
 
 TJjs 2/Sflf* o Is heeppsi tyi 'AaTrivoai. Zosini. 1. 5. c. 1 6. — Pomp. Mel. 
 1. 1. c. 14. 
 t Plin. Hist. Nat. 1. 5. c. 27. J Geograph. lib. 5. c. 5. 
 
Ch. 5 
 
 197 
 
 Cilicia Trachcia j Scylax names it as a city of Pamphylia, near 
 Coracesium. 
 
 The 200 stades of the Stadiasmus between Coracesium and 
 Leucotheius, accord tolerably well with the 1G G. M. of the map 
 between Alaya Coracesium and Karaburna : and although the 
 relative distances of the two ancient ruins which occur in this 
 interval do not very accurately agree with the two places men- 
 tioned in that Periplus, I am inclined to consider the eastern- 
 most of the ruins as Anaxia, and the westernmost (which is on 
 a cape) as Augae. The meaning of the Stadiasmus seems to 
 be, that Anaxia was not on the coast, and that it had a port 
 called Aunesis, — circumstances which exactly agree with the 
 ruins nearest to Alaya. I greatly suspect also that the Anaxia of 
 the Periplus is the Hamaxia of Strabo, and that the geographer 
 has erroneously placed that town to the eastward of Coracesium. 
 
 (20) As no other author makes mention of this Ptolemais, 
 and as its name is not found in the Stadiasmus, it may be con- 
 jectured that Ptolemais did not stand upon the coast, but occu- 
 pied, perhaps, the situation of the modern town of A'lara, where 
 is a river, and upon its banks a steep hill crowned with a 
 Turkish castle. 
 
 (2 1 ) The testimonies of Strabo, Ptolemy, Scylax, and the 
 Stadiasmus, concur in placing Coracesium at Alaya, the extra- 
 ordinary situation of which town upon a rocky promontory, 
 precipitous on one side and on the other extremely steep, is 
 well suited to that fortress, which alone held out against Anti- 
 ochus the Great, when all the other places on the coast of 
 Cilicia had submitted to his arms *-. Coracesium was one of 
 the positions which particularly assisted in supporting the spirit 
 of piracy upon this coast ; and it was the last at which the pirates 
 ventured to make any united resistance to the fleet of Pompey, 
 before they separated and retired to their strong holds in Mount 
 Taurus. For the history of the pirates the reader may consult 
 Strabo, the Mithridatic war of Appian, (who gives an account 
 
 * Liv. I. 33. c. 20. 
 
198 
 
 Ch.5 
 
 of their reduction by Pompey,) and Plutarch's life of the same 
 Roman commander. Their long success was owing to the 
 commodious ports and strong positions of the coast, to the 
 strength of Mount Taurus behind, and to the frequent disputes 
 of the kings of Cyprus, Egypt, and Syria, among one another 
 and with the Romans ; which made it occasionally the interest 
 of every party to support the Cilician cities in piracy and inde- 
 pendence. Thus, like the Barbary states in the present day. 
 the opportunity was afforded them of collecting plunder and 
 captives from every vessel and shore that was unable to resist 
 them. The sacred island of Delus became the entrepot of their 
 trade ; and the increasing luxury of the Romans gave en- 
 couragement to their commerce in slaves. 
 
 (22) Luean * calls Syedra a port. Floras describes it as a 
 desertum Cilicisc scopulum ; yet its copper-coins are not un- 
 common f; it probably shared with Coracesium a fertile plain 
 which here borders the coast, and stretches for ten miles to the 
 eastward of the latter place. 
 
 (23) I have already observed that I am inclined to prefer the 
 testimony of the Stadiasmii*, as to the site of Hamaxia, to that 
 which Strabo has here given : for notwithstanding the frequent 
 interruptions, false spellings, and false distances in the Periplus, 
 the order of names in a work of that description is more to be 
 depended upon than in Strabo. Unfortunately, Hamaxia is 
 not mentioned by any other author. 
 
 (24) The following is the description in the Stadiasmus of 
 the coast between Ancmurium and Coracesium. 
 
 'Atto 6s ' AvsfAOVplov e/j NX&'ruvbvDTor ora.}>. tv. (350). Error. 
 Atto YlhctTctvovyro; el; x,unio'j X-tx.2a.Onov aroCo. tv. (3.50). Error. 
 Tttsj 3s Xs&qx^pov Ksircti o»o; fiZysc "Av^oozo; Kxhovc-ievo; d^o 
 otxo. A. (30.) 
 
 At6 TOV XxqxOQOV i%\ XMQl'oV KouyoV X,Uh0V[AiV0y (JTXQ. (>. (100). 
 
 Pharsul. lib. 8. v. 251). f Eckhcl, Doct. Num. Vet. Cilicia. 
 
Ch. 5. 
 
 199 
 
 'A570 rov Koxyov iir\ ftu^tlv sttI Qochxaoris, Zsfy'hiov; (lege N«£s?i£<yf) 
 orxh. x.f. (25). 
 
 Atto tov 'LzQihiov \<7r\ elx^uv Nrjaix^ovayii art*,!}, r. (80). 
 Atto 'Snoixfyvar,; ukocc; el; *2.£hi'joi/VT<x. <j~x%. q. (100). 
 * * * 
 
 Axo Accs(>tov si; Kot>ccx.Y]<jtoy (jroto. £. (100). 
 
 The distance between Selinus and Laertes is wanting ; which, 
 as it deprives us also of the whole number of slades between 
 Anemurium and Coracesium, deducts very largely from the in- 
 formation contained in this passage of the Stadiasmus, where, 
 moreover, there are great errors in some of the separate distances. 
 Neither Syedra nor Hamaxia are mentioned ; but the other names 
 are the same as in Strabo and in the same order, with the ad- 
 dition of Cape Nesiazusa, which is not mentioned by any other 
 author, and of Cape Nephelis, which according to Livy * was 
 the station of the fleet of Antiochus the Great, when having 
 reduced the cities of Cilicia as far as Selinus inclusive, he was 
 employed in the siege of Coracesium, and where he received 
 the ambassadors of the Rhodii. 
 
 The preservation of the ancient names of Selinus, Charadrus, 
 and Anemurium, renders it easy to fix the principal places on 
 the line of coast between Alaya and Anamur. If we allow any 
 weight to the evidence of the distances in the preceding pas- 
 sage of the Stadiasmus, the site of Laertes was at some ruins 
 on a hill near the shore, 9 G. M. direct from Alaya, and 13^ 
 from the ruins of Selinus, or Trajanopolis, at Selinti. Cragus, 
 the Antiocheia super Crago of Ptolemy (1.5. c. 8.), who places 
 it next to Selinus eastward, is found about half way between 
 Selinus and Charadrus on a steep hill rising from the shore, 
 which exactly corresponds with the description of Cragus by 
 Strabo. Nephelis appears from the distance in the Stadiasmus 
 to have been the promontory two or three miles to the west- 
 
 * Livy (1. 33. c. 20.) says: "Nephelida promontorium Cilicke, in- 
 clitum foedere antiquo Atheniensium." What treaty this was it is 
 difficult to discover — not the treaty of Cinion with the Persians ; 
 tor according to that, the Chelidonian promontory was the point 
 beyond which the Persians were forbidden to sail. 
 
200 
 
 Ch. 5. 
 
 ward of the same place. But in this case Ptolemy has impro- 
 perly inserted Nephelis between Antiocheia and Anemurium. 
 It seems not improbable that. Antiocheia was founded or named 
 by Antiochus, when he chose the bay of Nephelis for the station 
 of his fleet in his operations against the Cilician fortresses. 
 According to Appian (Mithrid. c. 96.) there was a fortress of 
 Anticragus, as well as of Cragus. In regard to Platanus, Cap- 
 tain Beaufort remarks, that "between the plain of Selinti and 
 the promontory of Anamiir, a distance of 30 miles, the ridge of 
 bare rocky hills forming the coast is interrupted but twice by 
 narrow valleys which conduct the mountain torrents to the sea. 
 The first of these is Kharadra ; the other is half way between 
 that place and Anamiir." The latter seems therefore to be the 
 Platanus of the Stadiasmus : in comparing which authority with 
 Strabo and with the map, it would appear that Platanus gave 
 the name of Platanistus to the whole coast between Charadrus 
 and Anemurium, and that the distance of Platanus from either 
 place in stades should be p (150) instead of tv (350). 
 
 (25) These two numbers, namely, 820 stades from Corace- 
 sium to Anemurium, and 500 stades from Anemurium to Soli, 
 are obviously incorrect ; nor would they be very accurate if they 
 were to change places, the distance from Coracesium to Ane- 
 murium being about 50 geographical miles in direct distance, 
 and that from Anemurium to Soli near 100. 
 
 (2G) Nagidus, a colony of the Samii *, appears from its 
 silver coins t to have been anciently one of the chief cities upon 
 this coast : it probably declined in proportion as the neighbour- 
 ing position of Anemurium (which was better adapted to be one 
 of the fortresses and ports of the pirates) rose into importance. 
 The two theatres, the aqueduct, and other ruins at Anemurium, 
 aii show that it chiefly flourished under the Romans. The site 
 of Nagidus appears to have been on the hill above the castle of 
 Anamiir 
 
 The river Arymagdus, placed by Ptolemy between Anemu- 
 
 * Pompon. Mel. lib. I. c. 13. 
 
 f Sec Eckhel, Hunter, &c. 
 
Ch. 5. 
 
 201 
 
 rium and Arsinoe, seems to be the same as the Lalassis, which, 
 according to Pliny, flowed from Isauria into the sea of Ane- 
 murium*. The name of Lalassis was applied also to the 
 country on the banks of this river. Ptolemy mentions Nineia, 
 as the only town which it contained. The river is now called 
 the Direk-Ondasi ; it joins the coast at the castle of Anamur, 
 five miles north-eastward of Cape Anamur. 
 
 The following are the places between Celenderis and Ane- 
 murium according to the Stadiasmus : 
 
 \-Wo Kt>.svlio£cjg tU Metviivnv arcth. q. (100). 
 
 'Atto MccvOxvyi; iiz ccKour^Piou l\o<ni<itov x-Khovptvcv artth. ?. (7). 
 
 'Aird "MxuZxvyis Ivl rot; i^io'jvaio'potuovg areto. A. (30). 
 
 ' Atto Aiovv<rio(p xvov; u; Vw/^xvovg (qu. Aovfixyoov; ?) <7T#5. 
 v. (50). 
 
 'A*d Vwyftavmv e/j ' Amfiouoiov arxo. v. (50). 
 
 Notwithstanding the distortion of names in this passage, 
 yet as the two extreme places preserve their ancient appel- 
 lations, and the amount of distance 237 stades corresponds with 
 the 26 G. M. of the map, we may place some confidence in the 
 intermediate positions. The fifty stades of the Stadiasmus be- 
 tween Rhygmanaand Anemurium accord with the real distance 
 between the cape of Anamiir and the castle of Anamur, which 
 stands at the mouth of the Arymagdus : it is probable therefore 
 that Vvypava. is an error for 'A^v^uySos. Nor can it well be 
 doubted that the promontory Poseidium is the cape now called 
 Ivizliman, this being the only remarkable headland between 
 Anemurium and Celenderis, and the d'stances in the Stadias- 
 mus according very accurately with the reality. According to 
 an emendation of Saumaise, who was not acquainted with this 
 corroborating passage of the Stadiasmus, Scylax also makes 
 mention of the promontory of Poseidium. 
 
 (27) The Arsinoe here mentioned by Strabo is the only 
 place in Ptolemy between the mouth of the Arymagdus and 
 Celenderis : it is named also by Pliny, Stephanus, and the 
 geographer of Ravenna, the last of whom in giving the names 
 in this order, Anemurium, Arsinoe, Sicae, Celenderis, eorrobo- 
 
 * Plin. Hist. Nat. lib. 5. cap. 27. 
 
202 
 
 Ch. 5. 
 
 rates Strabo and Ptolemy, and justifies us in placing Arsinoe 
 at or near the ruined modern castle called Sokhta Kalesi, below 
 which is a port such as Strabo describes at Arsinoe, and a penin- 
 sula on the east side of the harbour covered with ruins. The 
 relative distances in the Stadiasmus place Dionysiophana? at the 
 same spot. Possibly this may have been ihe name of the har- 
 bour or peninsula, and Arsinoe may have stood upon the hill 
 of Sokhta Kalesi. The name of Syce or Sycea, the Sicae of the 
 geographer of Ravenna, is found as a Cilician town in Athe- 
 naeus * and Stephanus of Byzantium ; and if the emendation of 
 Scylax by Gronovius may be followed, it was very near the pro- 
 montory Poseidium. — Perhaps it possessed the fertile valley ly- 
 ing on the east side of the hills which end in Cape Kizliman. 
 
 One cannot but suspect at first sight that the Mandane of 
 the Stadiasmus is the same place as the Melania of Strabo. 
 The seven stades however of the Stadiasmus place Mandane 
 very near Poseidium to the eastward. On the other hand there 
 is a small bay only two or three miles to the westward of 
 Kelenderi, where Captain Beaufort remarked some vestiges of 
 antiquity : it remains doubtful therefore whether the distance in 
 the Stadiasmus is correct, and whether Melania and Mandane 
 were the same, or different places. 
 
 (28) As the Stadiasmus does not mention any distance be- 
 tween the Gulf of Berenice and Celenderis, there is reason to 
 think that Berenice was the name of the bay to the eastward of 
 the little port of Kelenderi. The following are the names and 
 distances of the places in the Stadiasmus between the mouth of 
 the Calycadnus and the Gulf of Berenice : 
 
 Atto tov 7roTctf4,ov(sei\. KuXvxKbvov) Wi oixQctv ctftpaOYi arivri'J ~xq- 
 •XiOOiitau x.a.t.ovyAvYiv. arotb. tt. (80.) 
 
 Att ctv-ii; d!/a.rav6'j roc, Q^et-^sx ag clxo rijc 'Sxp-xtbouixf a~xh. x. 
 (20.) 
 
 A-tto rijj xx^x; 'iy/tarx vqog ryu Kv7rqov u; vo'Aiy Kxpxxaiov vsu- 
 T/irov arxb. v. (400.) 
 
 Atto "2x(>v(6r,viocg xx^xg it( "Zi'hivxuxD arxb. ox. (120.) Oftolag xxl 
 tl; 'ZL'aov; (leg. 'Qppov; sive 'OX^oi/j) arxb. px (120.) 
 
 * Athen. 1. 3. c. 5. 
 
Cli. 
 
 ;>. 
 
 203 
 
 Aifo ti ray Opfia/v izr bLkpxv kxI ku/xyiii x.xAovp,itir,v Mi/Ax; qtxo. fc. 
 (40.) 
 
 Atto t ; /j; xkpx; Itti Aipctux Njjffoifo/o* xxi xkpxv S7riv/,<jtxv arxo. %. 
 (60.) 
 
 'Axo 7% xkpx; iirl xup'ivj QiAxixv arxl. k. (20.) 0/ itxvrs; xiro 
 "MvAxinjy ~6u tvirofiov, arx^. <p. (500.) 
 
 'Axo 7% <J>/Axix; IttI vvjaov Tltrvoutrxv arxl. pA. (130.) 'Air^ji ^ 
 lhrvovox xxo XsppovJiaov tjj vpo; rqy Mv-Xn orxl. k. (.20.) 
 
 Awd Tav xkpuu r^;YliTvovayi; kpo; ryu' A(ppoototx0r,y otcio. pcs~. (45.) 
 
 Atto AQpoOigixoo; tK rav tiiai/Vfcav vp/.u'j syfiv rqv TLirvovaxv tV< 
 
 KVPyOV XilfAfVOV WgOff XX.PXV '/) ■7TPri<J0V0p<,X?!TXt ZsQvpiOV <7Txl. jX. (40.) 
 
 Asrd row ZsQvpiov lUr xxpxu kx\ koAiv ' AtppodiTixlx crxl. /x. (40.) 
 Atto os rr,; "Sxpvelovix; xkpx; si; ' AQpoltoixbx 6 nAov; s%\ rviv 
 
 *#. "bi6t» orxo. pk. (120.) 'II os ' AcppoOttrix; xsnxt 'i'/yioTX rq; 
 
 Kvkqov ttqo; tsjj/ AvAiaiux xktyiu kx-zx kpvcu/xv syjivax vpog rx yA''f\ 
 
 7% XPXT0V GTXO. <p. (500.) 
 
 Atto AQgoototxtios sttI tfuglov xxAovpisvov Ki$iaov arxh. As, (35.) 
 Aofo MtAxvo; vorxpt.ov eni xkpxv Kpxmov; arxo. pi. (40.) 
 Ano tuv Kpxvv&>v tnl rx lltaovpyix suiiuvvfix s^ovrx t'/Jj/ Kpx/x- 
 Zovoxv arxl. pes. (45.) 
 
 Aaro Tij; Aippo'dtaixho; sttI rx Yltawnyix arxO. pk. (120.) 
 
 Awd rmv TLicovpyiuv si; xoAttqv BspyUnv (leg. Bspsi/ixru>) arxo. v. 50. 
 
 Airo K.sAsv"hsPiu; si; Mxylxi/qv irxo. p. (100). &C. 
 
 (29) Although there is not much to be learnt from the pre- 
 ceding passage of the Stadiasmus, one very important point is 
 settled by it. The long sandy promontory of Lissan El Kahpeh 
 is so accurately described by the words anpav appioSr) o-nvry, as 
 to leave no doubt of its identity with Sarpedonia, celebrated as 
 being the place beyond which the ships of Antiochus the Great 
 were forbidden to sail by his treaty with the Romans *. Strabo 
 
 * In the copy of the treaty in Polybius (1. 22. c. 26.) Cape Caly- 
 cadnus is mentioned as the point. M^Ss -nAsiruaxv tvi rxh rou Kx- 
 Avxxovov XKPurnpiov, ti pcy (Popov; jj TrpiaQeig jj opeqpov; xyoisu. In the 
 Latin copy of the treaty in Livy(l.38. c.38.) both capes are mentioned. 
 " Neve navigatio citra Calycadnum neve Sarpedonem promontoria" 
 &c. Ajjpian, who has given the substance only of the treaty, names 
 also both the capes: "Oqo-j (asv ' Autiox® ts?~ xpxvs sJuxi Zvo xwx; 
 KxavkxIi/ov ts kxI Ixpxr^o^ioi/. Appian Syr. c. 39. 
 
204 
 
 Ch. 5. 
 
 has therefore justly described the mouth of the Calycadnus 
 as occurring after turning Cape Sarpedon to the eastward ; 
 and the same relative situation of the places is indicated as 
 well by the Stadiasmus, as by Ptolemy, whose names are in 
 the following order : Celenderis, Aphrodisias, Sarpedon, the 
 mouth of the Calycadnus, Zephyrium, Corycus. Although 
 Ptolemy here describes the mouth of the Calycadnus and Ze- 
 phyrium as separate places, I believe them to have been the 
 same, and that Cape Zephyrium was nothing more than the re- 
 markable projection of the sandy coast at the mouth of that ri- 
 ver ; for Polybius, Livy, and Appian, all speak of Calycadnus as 
 a cape, and the two latter as a cape different from Sarpedon : 
 it can hardly be doubted therefore that the projection at the 
 mouth of the river was meant by them. In corroboration of this 
 opinion, it is to be observed that the Stadiasmus does not notice 
 any Zephyrium on this part of the coast, but names only the 
 mouth of the Calycadnus at 80 stades to the east of Sarpedonia, 
 which is nearly the distance of the mouth of the Ghiuk Su from 
 Lissan El Kahpeh. Pliny* in like manner omits Cape Zephy- 
 rium, stating the order of names (from E. to W.) as follows : 
 " Corycus eodem nomine oppidum et portus et specus ; mox 
 fiumen Calycadnus, promontorium Sarpedon, oppida Holme, 
 Myle promontorium et oppidum Veneris., a quo proxime Cyprus 
 insula." 
 
 The Aphrodisias or city of Venus which Ptolemy here names, 
 although unnoticed by Strabo, is mentioned by Stephanus, by 
 Diodorus +, and by Livy + ; from the last of whom it appears 
 to have ranked in the time of Antiochus the Great among the 
 chief towns of the coast. Its position, as indicated by Pliny, 
 agrees with that ascribed to it by Ptolemy and the Stadiasmus ; 
 and it appears from their joint authority to have been situated 
 between Celenderis and Sarpedon, on or very near a promon- 
 tory, also called Aphrodisias, which lay about north of Cape 
 Aulion the north-eastern extremity of Cyprus. These data, how- 
 ever precise, are not sufficiently so to decide the question be- 
 
 * Plin. Hist. Nat. 1. 5. c. 27. 
 I Liv. Hist. Nat. 1. 33. c. 20. 
 
 f Diodor. Sic. I. 19. c. 61. 
 
Ch. 5, 
 
 205 
 
 tween two adjacent capes on the coast westward of Sarpedon ; 
 and the confused account of the places in the Stadiasmus does 
 not inspire much confidence in that authority. We perceive, 
 however, that the Stadiasmus accords with Strabo and Pliny in 
 naming Holmi as the first place to the westward of Cape Sar- 
 pedon, and Pliny confirms the Stadiasmus in placing Mylae 
 between Holmi and Aphrodisias. Mylae in the Stadiasmus is 
 called a Cape and Chersonese, a description precisely appli- 
 cable to Cape Cavaliere, which is a peninsula connected with 
 the continent by a very narrow isthmus. I am inclined to 
 think, therefore, that cape Cavaliere was Mylae, that the cape 
 near the Papadula rocks was the promontory of Venus, and 
 that some vestiges of the town of Aphrodisias would be found 
 near the harbour behind the cape. Captain Beaufort informs 
 us that he did not observe many remains of Grecian antiquity 
 on this part of the coast ; they were probably converted into 
 new buildings by the Crusaders, many marks of whose resi- 
 dence are found here, and among others the names of Cavaliere 
 and Provencal attached to the most remarkable cape and 
 island *. The island of Provencal, called by the Turks Mena- 
 vat, is probably the Pityussa of the Stadiasmus ; for the Papa- 
 dula islands, consisting of several small rocks, would hardly 
 have been described by a Greek word in the singular. Holmi, 
 the ancient residence of the people of Seleuceia before the 
 time of its foundation by Seleucus Nicator f, was probably at 
 
 * Among other places on this coast taken possession of by the 
 Knights of St. John were three fortresses, consigned to their care 
 about the year 1200 by Pope Innocent III., who had received them 
 from Leo king of Armenia, on the occasion of his coronation and 
 acknowledgment of the Latin church. The ancient Armenian in- 
 scriptions still existing at Korgos and Selefke, render it probable 
 that these were two of the fortresses. See Beaufort's Karamania, 
 pp. 220, 245. 
 
 f Stephanus (in lihiVKna.) says that this Seleuceia was formerly 
 called Olbia : which appears to be a mistake, arising from the simi- 
 larity of the names Olbia; and Holmi. Strabo is confirmed by Pliny 
 (1. 5. c. 2/.), who says, " Seleucia supra amnem Calycadnum, Trachi- 
 otis cognomine, a mare relata, ubi vocabatur Hormia "(Holmia). 
 
206 
 
 Ch. 5 
 
 Aghaliman, the modern port of Selefke. The observation of 
 the Stadiasmus, that the distances were equal between Cape 
 Sarpedonia and Seleuceia, and between the same promon- 
 tory and Holmi, will be found accurate when applied to Agha- 
 liman and Selefke, relatively to the extreme point of the 
 sandhills above the low sandy cape of Lissan el Kahpeh : for 
 it may easily be credited that the point of the sandhills was 
 the extreme cape at the date of the Stadiasmus j at which time 
 the long low spit may have been the shoals which that au- 
 thority notices as extending twenty stades beyond Sarpedonia. 
 The distance, however, of 120 stades from Sarpedon to Seleu- 
 ceia and to Holmi will be found too great, when measured from 
 the point of the sandhills to Selefke and Aghaliman. 
 
 The river which joins the sea at the bottom of the Bay of 
 Papadula, being the largest stream on the part of the coast 
 under consideration, seems to be the Melas of the Stadiasmus ; 
 and the cape which lies midway between that stream and Ce- 
 lenderis may possibly be the Crauni of the same authority. The 
 other places mentioned in the Stadiasmus, I shall not pretend 
 to determine, but proceed to extract from it the names of the 
 places on the whole extent of the coast of Cilicia Campestris, 
 with their respective distances. As this authority proceeds in 
 a contrary direction to Strabo, it will be found more con- 
 venient to examine the entire passage relating to the coast 
 of Cilicia before we continue the immediate reference to 
 the text of Strabo, followed in the numbers attached to these 
 Notes. 
 
 'Axo 'AXf|«>3^s/atj tie T <*? K/Af*/#s Tracts crcto. a. (200.) opov oi 
 7rxvTf$ «« TLxatov tag Ttvv KMw/wk ttvauu arotZ. £,<p. (2500.) 
 Aqikov KtAiaicc. 
 
 'Axel tuv KtAtxtav nvvhatv ilg to' If^oy crct^. PK. (120.) rouro tariu 
 vTrspQqvoii tie TO» toxov si; ttoaiv. 
 
 'A/rd TOW li^ou it; -TTuAiv A(uvaov arxo. '■p. (,700.) 
 
 'Atto ' Afiiuoov tie Tt zf 'Afif&avtuKOi; (leg. Aft.etutx.eie) ttvax; lur xot- 
 
 AOTOtTOV TOU KOATTOV OTOt}). S". (0.) 
 
 'Atto tuu tvvawu it; xaftYiu " Aaayiu aTeth. u. (50.) 
 'Axd tov Mt>(j/«j'§£ov ovQiobgoftovvTo; aToth. (>. (100.) 
 'Axo tuu "AaXwv £<V 'xo'htv Alyetlot; uToio. o. (100.J 
 
Ch. 5. 
 
 207 
 
 'Aero he tov Mvpixvoqov si; Aiyxix; sv9vh(>op.ovvTi sttI tov vrohov vo- 
 tov oTxh. f. (100.) 
 
 'Atto A'f/xiau 6 •xxpxv'kov; Kgriftvaho; k~i KUftyji/ li^s tiay/V gtxo. (>v. 
 
 (150.) 
 
 'A'Z'o 06 P^yffci/ sv&vhpoy.ovvTi stt\ t^v 'Es^stiTvyiu £7ri toD toAov votov 
 orxh. ox. (250.) x.xtx o»j rsjy Is^sri'KYiv xuftvi tx.7roc.ya Uv^x/ao; x.x'hu- 
 toci' x.xl i/tts^xvu xvrov 6'qo; x.xr\Ovp.ivou TLxqtoy x~o orxh. |. (60.) 
 
 ' AlTO TJjj2s0:T<'?tA£<y? el; KU(AY)V iTT XKQXll' IxVOVXQIXV OTxh. at. (1000.) 
 
 Atto TVi;'lxvovx(>ix; xzgx; evl rx; Athvpov; vqaov; orxh. A. (30.) 
 'Aro tmv Aihvpuv vvjuuii si; vrohiv kx\ov p'svYtV Mx'Khov o-rxh. q. (100.) 
 'Affd MaAAoy */f ' KvTioxitxv iirl Uvpxpov ■noTXf&ou arxo. qv. (150.) 
 Atto Tsjj AvTto%iix; iiei ttjv luuixu, %v vvv Kitpxhov x.x'hovai arxo. 
 o. (70.) vrxQX to xKQaTVj^iov TTOTXfto; sari 'k'Koito; Ilv^xy.o; KXhilrai. 
 'Atto t<w ^kottsKov (scil. Vaaatxov *) he ^'4 >cxrxK()K7ri(^ovri, xh^! stv 
 tvdsix; n>~hiovTi si; Avtioxsixu' eirstTX ttqo; xvxtoK'^'j rijj 'H-rf/gow 
 vara tx sbuvvy.x ftxKfioy btxQxKha axxd. rv. (350.) 
 
 Ani tov Ilvox/zov votx^ov svdvhpofA.ovvri gig 'SaXov; \it\ rx tqo; 
 
 'iOKiOXV [/.SPYI TV); cl(>KTOV VOTW fClKOX 7TX^ihKX; ff 7x7). (p. (500.) 
 
 Atto TJjc x.spx'hq; tov IlvgxfAov txl tou ttotx/hov "Agsiov orxh. qk. 
 (120.) 
 
 Atto ' Aqsiov 7roTXjnov i7?l arofiXTo; hiftvri;, oxxhiirxt T/f/fiol arxh. 
 
 o.(70.) 
 
 Atto Vriyf/,<iy si; TxQtrov arxo. o~. (70.) pest he ftfoyig Tq; -nohtu; kotx^ 
 fto; Kvhvo;. 
 
 ' Atto Txqo-ov iirl x&ioioit Zspvotov orxh. qk. (120.) 
 'Atto diloi.vv eiri xu/xyiv KxTixvdixv orxh. v. (50.) 
 Atto Kx'Axvdtxg zuftriz lie 'TLXxtovvrx arxh. ^.(100.) 
 ' A^o v "SeipxowYig (qu. 2s€«or>!;?) tig x.a(tYiu xochovpAw/iv Kagv/cou crxh. 
 k. (20.) 
 
 Aizct Se lohuu it; Kagvuoit a~xh. air. (280.) v7tsq uv AnriyfiV tarlv 
 ccKoarijQiou KuQiiztou x.x'Mvf/.ivov a~xh. q. (100.) 
 
 Awo' tov Kuqvkiqv iirl Titftiuet x.x>ovf.iivov x.x~Kw Kogxx'Jio-toit arxo. 
 
 e«. (125.)^ 
 
 'A^d TOV }S.0(>XX.YI<J10V 1771 T'/IV TLolAlhYiV YllT^XV, yjTIC i-fail X.hl'fiXX.X it 
 
 ?jc io-Tiv o'Scif tig Ht'AsvKuxv T'/\v ivl Avkov otxI. o~. (70.) (lege Kx'hvx.xo- 
 uov sive KxXvhvovf). 
 
 'A^ro rqc Khip.xx.oc IttX tov ttotx/hov Kxhvh'tov (lege KxhvOyou) arxo. 
 fi.40. 
 
 * Ptolemy calls the southern cape at the entrance of the Issicgulf 
 (now Cape Hanzir) by this name, Pao~otx.6; o-x.ovs'hoc. 
 
 f Stephanas (in'Toix) says, the Calycadnus was sometimes called 
 Calydnus. 
 
2CH 
 
 Ch. 5. 
 
 The reader will think, perhaps, that this long passage was 
 hardly worth transcribing Some of the distances indeed be- 
 tween the known points give us not much confidence in its 
 authority : the number of stades, for instance, from Paltus on 
 the coast of Syria to the Cilician pylae is more than double, 
 and that across the Gulf of Issus from Myriandrus to Mgte 
 is less than half the true distance. Nor will the shorter lines 
 along the coast bear much examination. I have thought it 
 worth while, however, to complete the comparison of this Pe- 
 riplus with the survey of Capt. Beaufort, because its minute 
 description can be illustrated only by a delineation so detailed 
 and accurate as that of Capt. B. In the part of the Gulf of 
 Issus which has not yet been surveyed, the names and their 
 order may be of use to future investigators of the comparative 
 geography of these countries : and the Periplus may throw 
 some light upon ancient topography, when it has itself received 
 illustration from a correct delineation. 
 
 There are two points at the head of the Gulf of Issus besides 
 Alexandreia, which have preserved the ancient name. These 
 are Baiae and Mgas, both which words are still used in the 
 Romaic form (the accusative case), in which they were received 
 by the Turks from the Byzantine Greeks. Bouoci is now called 
 Bayas, and Alyai or Alyczicti, Ayas. The former stands in a 
 small plain at the foot of Mount Amanus, which rises from the 
 extremity of the Gulf ; the latter occupies a point on the north 
 side of the gulf, at the entrance of a bay, which is formed on 
 the opposite or western side by a low cape, at the mouth of 
 the Djihiin, or Ghihiin — the ancient Pyramus. 
 
 Strabo, Ptolemy *, and the Stadiasmus agree in naming two 
 pylae, or passes, fortified with a wall and gate at the head of 
 
 * Tjjc tdiuc KtXocixc ftsooyaot Mo-J/veartx, Kxarx- 
 
 ^x'hx, NtKGKohi;, ' ETKpxveicc, x.xl xi' Afixi/tx.xt ttv'Xxi. Ptolcni. I. o 
 c. 8. 
 
 H 2i/«/« 7r;(>iooi£iTcii cctto fiiv uqxtuu tyi re Ki^ikix, &C 
 
 Mstcc to:/ \(jrr6v xxi Tssf Kihtxixt; irihecs hlKt^fitvhputt, ij kxtx' luaov, 
 
 ~Mv(>ixvtyo;, &c Uhqix; hi vo'Kng x'thi. TLIixqx, 
 
 Ilxy^xi kxI xi TLvpiat nti/Kxt. Ptolem. 1. 5. c. 15. 
 
Ch. 5. 
 
 '209 
 
 the gulf j namely, the gate of Amanus, which was in Cilicia, 
 and the Cilician gate, which formed the division between Sy- 
 ria and Cilicia. The position of both these pylae has been 
 ascertained * ; the northern or Amanic, between Ayas and 
 Bayas, at the northern or innermost extremity of the gulf, 
 h tuj noiAorccTu) row xoKirov, as the Stadiasmus has well de- 
 scribed it, the southern or Cilician, between Bayas and 
 
 Iskenderiin, not far from, if not exactly at the place, where 
 Pococke and other modern travellers observed some ruins vul- 
 garly known by the name of the Pillars of Jonas. The pass 
 of Beilan, leading from Iskenderun over the mountain into the 
 plain of Antioch, was a third pylae f, which has been well di- 
 stinguished by Ptolemy from the other two, and was justly 
 called the Gate of Syria. 
 
 It will follow from the foregoing remarks, that I cannot agree 
 with the author of the Illustrations of the Expedition of Cyrus, 
 in thinking that Strabo, by the words 'Ajxavi&j IloAai, and al 
 llvXat XayofLsvxi, optov KtXUwv re kou Ivpouv \, meant one 
 and the same pass j or that by either of these pylae he meant 
 the pass of Beilan. For it is to be observed, that his words 
 'Apavldss irvXui occur in enumerating the places in their order, 
 thus : Mallus, JEgse., Amanides Pylae, Issus. At Issus, after 
 observing that the gulf took its name from that city, he suddenly 
 breaks off from his former order, mentions several cities in the 
 neighbourhood of the Gulf, and ends with naming the gate 
 which formed the boundary of Syria and Cilicia ; which, it is 
 to be observed, could not have been the Pass of Beilan, because 
 in that case Alexandria would have been included in Cilicia : 
 whereas we know that Issus was the last town of that province. 
 Nor is the meaning which Major Rennell gives to these words 
 
 * Pococke's Travels, vol. 2. part 1. c. 20. M. Kinneir's Journey in 
 Asia Minor, p. 135. Niebuhr's Map in the Voyage en Arabie, torn. 2. 
 pi. 52. Drummond's Travels, letter 5. 
 
 f I saw the foundation of the wall which once fortified this pass. 
 Perhaps Beilan is only a corruption of TLv^w, or Pyla in the ac- 
 cusative. 
 
 | Strabo, p. 6~6. See the translation in p. 1 80 of this volume. 
 
 P 
 
210 
 
 Ch. 5, 
 
 of Straho supported by the otier passage which he cites 
 
 (from p. 751); the words of whici are al Udypat rr^ 
 
 'Avrioynfos, xcvplov £pv[j.vov xard rrjv virepftenv rou 'Aixav&u r»v 
 sk ruiv 'A'axvIScuv irvXwv &\g rr,v 'Liola.v xeiixsvov. 'tiroiriirrBi u.ev 
 ovv tods Wa.ypa.ii to tiuv 'AvTtofcwv irsSiov. The ruins of 
 Pagrae are found under their ancient name, in the usual modern 
 form of the accusative case (Pag-as), on the southern slope of 
 Mount Amanus eight or nine nv.les below Beilan on the road 
 to Antioch. Had Beilan been the Amanic gate meant bv 
 Strabo, he would surely have described Pagrae simply as being 
 on the descent from the gates of Amanus into the plain of An- 
 tioch, not, as on the passage over Mount Amanus, which leads 
 from the Pylac Amanides into Syr a ; for thus the passage should 
 be translated, and not as Dr. Gilles has given it, " situate upon 
 the ascent of Mount Amanus leading from the gates of Amanus 
 into Syria." Beilan certainly was, as I have just observed, a 
 Pyla;, and it was upon Mount Amanus, or rather exactly at the 
 point which separated Mount Ananus from Mount Pieria ; but 
 it was not the Pylae Amanides of Strabo, the position of which, 
 as already described, is exactly confirmed by the Stadiasmus, as 
 well as by Ptolemy. There was & fourth pass, as Major Rennell 
 has justly observed, which crossing Mount Amanus from the 
 eastward, descended upon the centre of the head of the gulf, 
 near Issus. By this pass it was that Dareius marched from 
 Sochus, and took up his positior. on the banks of the Pinarus ; 
 by which movement Alexander, who had just before marched 
 from Mallus to Myriandrus, through the two maritime pylae, 
 was placed between the Persians and Syria. Cicero also al- 
 ludes to this pass when he observes, that " nothing is stronger 
 than Cilicia on the side of Syia, there being only two nar- 
 row entrances into it over the Amanus, the ridge of which 
 mountain divides the two provinces : " qui Syriam a Cilicia 
 aquarum divortio dividit*." The other pass to which he alludes 
 was that of Beilan. 
 
 * Cicero ad Div. 1. 15. ep. 4. ad Attic. 1. 5. ep. 20. Cicero, in clear- 
 ing Mount Amanus of the Parthiam, took Erana, the chief town, and 
 several smaller places. 
 
Ch.5. 
 
 •211 
 
 With regard to the military operations of Alexander and of 
 Cyrus on this celebrated scene of action, I must be satisfied, 
 until we have a more detailed and accurate map, with referring 
 the reader to Major Rennell, who 1ms ably confronted the va- 
 rious evidences upon the subject in his illustrations of the Ex- 
 pedition of Cyrus. The chief movements and the general si- 
 tuation of the places are sufficiently clear, and I fully subscribe 
 to Major Rennell's opinions, with the sole exception which I 
 have just stated. 
 
 Having ascertained the eastern extremity of the line of coast 
 comprehended between the mouth of the Calvcadnus and the 
 head of the gulf of Issus, 1 shall now return to the western 
 extremity, and, proceeding according to the order of names in 
 the extract from Strabo, examine how far the text of the Geo- 
 grapher can be illustrated by other authorities, particularly the 
 Stadiasmus. The modern names of h'orgos, Lamas, and Tersiis, 
 which would probably be still nearer the original Corycus, Lat- 
 mus, and Tarsus, when written by a Greek, are the principal 
 landmarks, and together with the ruins of Pompeiopolis at Me- 
 zetlu, they render it not difficult, with the assistance of Captain 
 Beaufort's survey, to fix most of the intermediate places. 
 
 (30) Here it will be observed that the Stadiasmus exactly 
 confirms Strabo's description of the rock Pcecile, with its steps 
 leading to Seleuceia. Its distance of 40 stades from the Calv- 
 cadnus, if correct, will place it about Pershendi, at the north- 
 eastern angle of the sandy plain of the Calycadnus, where 
 a sheltered bight between the sandy beach and a projection of 
 the mountains which constitute the coast from thence as far 
 as the Lamas, serves as the harbour of Selefke towards the east, 
 as Aghaliman is to the west. Instead of any steps in the rocks, 
 Captain Beaufort here found the " extensive ruins of a walled 
 town, with temples, arcades, aqueducts, and tombs built round 
 a small level, which had some appearance of having once been 
 a harbour, with a narrow opening to the sea." An inscription 
 copied by Captain Beaufort from a tablet over the eastern gate 
 of the ruins, accounts for the omission of any notice of this town 
 by Strabo ; for the inscription states it to have been entirely 
 
 p 2 
 
212 
 
 Ch. 5. 
 
 built by Fluranius, archon of the Eparchia of Isauria, in the 
 reign of the Augusti Valentinian, Valens, and Gratianus *. It 
 seems probable that it is the same place called Poecile Petra by 
 Strabo ; and that being the eastern port of Seleuceia, it acquired 
 under the Roman emperors a share of the importance to which 
 Seleuceia then attained, and probably some new name, perhaps 
 Zephyrium. As the Stadiasmus speaks of the place in the same 
 terms as Strabo, it may be inferred that this Periplus is older 
 than the ruins at Pershendi, or older than the 4th century. 
 
 (3 1 ) Between Poecile Petra and Corycus, Strabo places Cape 
 Anemunum and the island Crambusa; the Stadiasmus names 
 only port Coracesium. Ku>pvxo$ still preserves its name; but 
 instead of being a promontory as described by Strabo, it is an 
 island, upon which stands a castle similar in structure to another 
 larger castle on the neighbouring shore of the continent. The 
 castle on the island appears from the inscriptions which it pre- 
 serves, to have been of the time of the Armenians, who pos- 
 sessed this country in the beginning of the 13th century. In 1432 
 Korgos belonged to the king of Cyprus f. In 14/1 it was taken 
 from the Turks of Mahomet the Second by the Venetians, who 
 gave it up to the prince of Karaman \. The castle on the shore 
 stands on the site of a Greek town, the ancient Corycus §, 
 which Strabo has not noticed. There does not appear to be 
 any cape on the four miles of coast between this point and 
 Pershendi that will readily identify itself with his cape Ane- 
 
 * We find in Hierocles that Seleuceia was the metropolis of Isau- 
 ria at the time when Cilicia, divided into two i-rrcto-^ixi, extended 
 no further westward than Corycus inclusive. The chief magistrate, 
 however, is stated by Hierocles to have been intitled yytpau, not 
 oi^xuu: but Hierocles probably wrote long after the date of this 
 inscription, and in the interval some change may have taken place 
 in the mode of government. 
 
 f Travels of Bertrandon de la Broequiere in the years 1435, 1433, 
 translated by Johnes, pp. 174. 190. 
 
 \ Josaphat Barbaro-Viaggio in Persia. 
 
 § Liv. 1. 33. c. 20. Plin. 1. 5. c. 27. Pomp. Mela, 1. 1. c. 13. 
 Stephan. in Kapvxof. 
 
Ch. 5. 
 
 •213 
 
 murium, nor any harbour that will agree with the Coracesium 
 of the Stadiasmus; and the distances in the last authority are 
 quite absurd. On the summit of the mountain, above the ruins 
 of Corycus, ought to be found the Coryeian cave, of which 
 Strabo, Mela, and Solinus have related such wonders, that with 
 regard to the greatest part of them we may use the words 
 applied by Solinus himself to one of the circumstances reported 
 of the cave — Qui volunt, credunt. 
 
 (32) Elaeussa is no longer an island ; and it is remarkable 
 that Stephanas, though in one place * he calls it an island 
 near Corycus, in another f describes it as a Chersonese. A 
 sandy plain now connects Elaeussa with the coast, and with the 
 ruins of the city which derived its importance and its name of 
 Sebaste from having been the residence of Archelaus king of 
 Cappadocia ! . These ruins consist of a temple, theatre, nu- 
 merous sepulchres, and three aqueducts, one of which is de 
 rived from the river Lamus, six miles distant. The distance 
 of Elaeussa as well as of Soli from Corycus is tolerably exact 
 in the Stadiasmus ; consequently there must be some error 
 either in the distance between Soli and Calanthia, or in that 
 between Calanthia and Elaeussa : and hence, as there are no 
 conspicuous ruins upon this part of the coast, it becomes im- 
 possible to fix Calanthia. 
 
 (33) Soli, which like Aspendus and Rhodus was a colony 
 from Argus, was at one time the chief city on the coast of 
 Cilicia j but it had fallen into decay, chiefly by the ill treatment 
 of Tigranes, when Pompey, having reduced Cilicia, rebuilt it and 
 named it Pompeiopolis §. Captain Beaufort has published a 
 plan of its ruins. The elliptical mole and artificial port seem 
 to have been a magnificent structure, and may perhaps be 
 
 * In ' F.hottovaox. -f In 'S.tZoKjTy. 
 
 X Joseph. Antiq. Jud. 1. 16. c. 4. Strabo, p. 071. 
 
 § Xenoph. Exp. Cyr. 1. 1. c. 4. Arrian, 1. 2. c. 5. Q. Curt. 1 3 c. 7. 
 Dio. Cass. 1. m. c. 20. Liv. 1. 33. c. 20.— 1. 37- c. 56. Pompon. 
 Mel. 1. 1. c. 13 Ptol. 1. a. c. 8. 
 
214 
 
 Ch. 5, 
 
 onlv a repair of an ancient Greek work. The other remains, 
 the walls, aqueduct, theatre, temples, and the long colonnade 
 on either side of the main street, were probably erected by 
 Pompey, as they resemble the skeletons of Roman cities seen 
 at Antinoe in Egypt, at Gerasa in Syria, and less perfectly in 
 many other places. 
 
 (34) The most projecting point between the ruins of Soli 
 and the mouth of the Tersiis-tshai, or Cydnus, is the sandy 
 cape at the mouth of the river of Mersin. This cape, therefore, 
 is probably the ancient Zephyrium, though its distance from 
 Tarsus is somewhat greater than that which the Stadiasmus 
 gives between these two places, namely 120 stades. The Sta- 
 diasmus agrees with Hierocles in showing that there was a 
 town as well as a cape of Zephyrium. 
 
 (3;">) We naturally look for Anchiale, the port of Tarsus, at 
 the nearest part of the coast at which there is shelter for ship- 
 ping, or at that from whence the maritime traffic of Tarsus is 
 now carried on. The shore opposite to Kazalu and Karaduar 
 is in both these predicaments ; and between these two villages 
 is a river answering to the Anchialeus *. Anchiale boasted of 
 an antiquity equal to that of Tarsus ; but as early as the time of 
 Alexander the Great it retained only the vestiges of its former 
 importance, in its massy and extensive walls f. A large mound, 
 not far from the Anchialeus, with some other similar tumuli near 
 the shore to the westward, are the remains, perhaps, of the works 
 of the Assyrian founders of Anchiale, which probably derived its 
 temporary importance from being the chief maritime station of 
 the Assyrian monarchs in these seas. 
 
 (36) The Cydnus, instead of flowing through Tarsus, as in 
 former times *, leaves the present city to the westward, and 
 no longer forms the lake towards its mouth, which once served 
 
 * Stephan. in ' Ay#/<&/j. Eustath. in Dionys. Perieg. 
 
 f Arrian, 1. 2. c. 5. 
 
 % Arrian, 1. 2. c. 4. Q, Curt. J. 3. c. 5. Dionys. Perieg v. 868. 
 
CI). 5; 
 
 215 
 
 as a naval arsenal to Tarsus. The alluvion of the river itself 
 has converted this lake into a sandy plain. 
 
 Although Strabo has omitted to mention the Sarus in this 
 place, there is sufficient proof that it was the modern Sihun, 
 which enters the sea at a short distance to the S. E. of the 
 Cydnus ; for the town of Adana, the district of which adjoined 
 to that of Tarsus, still retains its ancient name and situation on 
 the western bank of the Sihun * ; the course of which river is 
 traced upwards through mount Taurus into the plains of Cap- 
 padocia, exactly as Strabo describes the Sarus f- 
 
 (37) It is equally evident that the Ghihun is the Pyramus, 
 whose origin, like the Sarus J, was in Cappadocia, from whence 
 it flowed through the Taurus ; for the Pyramus was the next 
 river eastward of the Sarus § j and at Mensis, the Ghihun flows 
 within 20 miles of the Sihun at Adana, without any interme- 
 diate river of magnitude between them ; from thence it winds 
 to the east, and joins the sea in the middle of the Issic gulf. 
 The Ghihun is larger than any other river in Cilicia, as Strabo 
 describes the Pyramus, and it has deposited a large tract of 
 alluvial land at its mouth, which, however, has not increased so 
 rapidly as the ancients had predicted. 
 
 (38) The great plain situated between the lower course of 
 these two rivers and the sea was called Aleium. The only hill 
 which it contains rises from the shore of the gulf of Iskenderun, 
 and forms at its southern extremity the northern cape of that gulf 
 under the name of Karadash. Here Captain Beaufort observed 
 the vestiges of an ancient town. This I believe to have been 
 
 * Dio. Cass. 1.47- c. 31. Procop. deiEdif. 1. 5. c. 5. Stephan. in 
 A3#i>«. 
 
 f A/as f/Jy ovv rfi; vo'hiu; Txvrns (scil. Comana) 6 lottos pn tto- 
 rx t u,o; kxI did rcov avuxynsiav tov Txvqov OiSKTri^xtovToci tqo; t« ruv 
 KiKikuv irstiix kccI to i/^oKiifcei/ou vi'hoiyo;. p. 53(j. Comana is the 
 modern Bostiin. % Strabo, ibid. 
 
 § Xenoph. de Exp. Cyr. 1. 1. c. 4. Ptolem. 1. 5. c. 8. Procop. 
 de iEdif. 1. 5. c. 5. 
 
216 
 
 Ch. 5. 
 
 Megarsus, and that Mallus was situated on another hill which 
 rises from the eastern hank of the Pyramus near its mouth ; 
 for these two situations accord perfectly with the evidence which 
 the ancients have left respecting the position of Megarsus and 
 Mallus. 1. Megarsus was a sea-beaten hill in the neighbour- 
 hood of Mallus and the mouth of the Pyramus *, and Karadash 
 is the only hill near the Aleian plain which borders the sea- 
 coast. 2. Mallus was upon a height near the Pyramus, as 
 Euphorion f, Scylax +, Strabo, Stephanus §, and Mela ||, all 
 indicate, and not far from the sea-coast, as appears from its 
 being noticed in the Periplus of Scylax, as well as in the Sta- 
 diasmus- 3. Strabo and Ptolemy agree in naming the Pyra- 
 mus before Mallus in proceeding from west to east. 4. This 
 position of Megarsus, the Pyramus, and Mallus, agrees per- 
 fectly with the proceedings of Alexander, as related by Strabo, 
 Arrian, and Curtius^j". Alexander having sent his horse under 
 Philotas from Tarsus across the Aleian plain to the Pyramus, 
 marched the infantry from Soli along the sea-coast to Megar- 
 sus ; from whence, after having sacrificed to Minerva Megarsis, 
 he proceeded to Mallus, which it appears that his army did not 
 enter until they had thrown a bridge across the Pyramus. 
 
 It is further remarkable, in reference to the site of Mallus, 
 that the sailing distance in the Stadiasmus from Mallus to 
 
 Stephan. in ISIxyxnao;. 
 
 Ilvo&ftov T(>6i tx.co'Xoti; 
 
 h'nrv; 5' xhil^o; ofcuo; tv y.i7xi%piu 
 
 Miyu(><To:. J.vcophr. v. 439. 
 
 *l oi Meyxooo; 7vohi$ khtxi irnoc rut; 'tK-^i/atat rot* IIvqxuov votx- 
 poi. Tzetzcs in Schol. ibid. 
 
 ttsqi Mxyxgax rov llugciftov TrXwiov. Strabo. p. (>7G. See the 
 translated extract. 
 
 t Ap. Tzetz. in Lycoph. ubi sup. 
 
 J Torccfto; UuQcc/ii'j; nxi tto'Ki; MocAXo:, ii; v\v xvxifKw; kxtx tou 
 Korxfto*. Scylax in Cilicia. 
 
 § Stepli. in NxXKo;. || Pomp. Mel. 1. 1. c. 13. 
 
 ^ Arrian, 1. 2. c. 5. — castris motis, et Pyramo ainne ponte 
 
 junctc, Mallon pcrvenit. Q. Curt. !. 3. c. 7. 
 
Ch. 5. 
 
 217 
 
 Soli, accords precisely with that of Artemidorus * from the 
 Pyramus to Soli, namely 500 stades, which is very near the 
 truth j and that the description which the Stadiasmus gives of 
 the navigation is exactly confirmed by the form of the inter- 
 mediate coast, namely, that it trended first to the southward, 
 and then to the north-westward. 
 
 (39) Mopsuestia is represented to have stood on the Pyra- 
 mus f. Its name under the Byzantine empire was corrupted to 
 Mampsysta, or Mamista, or Mansista J ; of which names the 
 modern Mensis appears to be a further corruption. This town 
 stands on the Ghihun, on the road from Baias to A'dana, nearly 
 at the distance from each at which the Jerusalem Itinerary 
 places Mansista. The Peutinger Table, also, places Mopsuesta 
 at 19 M. P. from A'dana. We cannot doubt, therefore, that 
 Mensis occupies nearly, if not exactly, the site of the ancient 
 city of Mopsus. 
 
 Above this place, on the same river, stood Anazarba, or 
 Caesareia at Mount Anazarbus, which has probably preserved 
 some remains of antiquity, as it was the capital of the second 
 or eastern Cilicia about the fifth century, Tarsus being at that 
 time the. metropolis of the western §. 
 
 To the north-eastward of Mgse was Epiphaneia ||, one day's 
 march from Mount Amanus ^f , on the road from Alexandria 
 to Anazarbus**, which probably branched from the road to 
 Mopsuestia, not far from the Amanic gates. In the mountains 
 
 * Ap. Strabon. p. 675. See the translated extract. 
 
 f Plin. Hist. Nat. 1. 5. c. 27. Stephan. in Mo-^ov iarix. Procop. 
 de Mdlf. 1. 5. c. 5. 
 
 X Cod. Theodos. 
 
 i) MxpurTX sj kou MoiJ/ou itrrix hiyopJi/yj. M. Glyca? Annal. p. 306. 
 Paris. 
 
 Civitas Adana, 18 M.P. Civitas Mansista 48 M.P. Mansio Baiae. 
 — Itin. Hierosol. 
 
 § Hierocl. Synecd. 
 
 || Appian Mithridat. c. 96.— EpiphaniaquaeanteaEniandus. Plin. 
 Hist. Nat. 1. 5. c. 27- Ptolem. 1. 5. c. 8. Hierocl. Synecd. 
 
 % Cicero ad Div. 1. 15. ep. 4. ** Tab. Peutinger, scg. 7. 
 
218 
 
 Ch. 5. 
 
 above Epiphania and Anazarbus towards Cappadocia were Pin- 
 denissus and Tibara, two strong towns of the Eleuthero-Cilices 
 which were taken by Cicero*. Castabalum, placed by the 
 Itineraries about 16 M.P. from Bai;e, and about 26 from Mgse, 
 appears from Curtius to have been very near the Pylae Ama- 
 nides, on the northern side f. According to the Table, Issus 
 was 5 M.P. to the southward of Castabalum. 
 
 Below Mopsuestia, between that place and Mallus, there ap- 
 pears to have been a town upon the Pyramus called Antiocheiaj 
 for besides the evidence which the Stadiasmus affords of this 
 fact, we find it exactly confirmed by Stephanas, who mentions 
 it as one of ten cities of that name J. 
 
 The Seretila, which the Stadiasmus places between Mallus 
 and iEgfe, is probably an error for Serrepolis, which name is 
 inserted by Ptolemy § in the same situation ; and this conjec- 
 ture is in some measure confirmed by the genitive 1.spsrlKXeu)i, 
 in which form the Stadiasmus afterwards mentions the same 
 name, and which nearly approaches to LsppBTrcXs-MS. 
 
 1 shall not pretend to explain the Stadiasmus any further, 
 or to justify its distances, some of which may, however, be 
 found accurate, when a better knowledge of the real geography 
 and of the ancient sites shall have illustrated its meaning. 
 With such a multitude of verbal and literal errors, we cannot 
 be surprised at finding many of the numbers also inaccurate. 
 It may be observed, however, that of the three distances which 
 the author has drawn across the gulf of Issus, — namely, from 
 Myriandrus to Mgss, from Rhesus to Serrepolis, and from the 
 Rhosic rock (now cape Hanzir) to Antiocheia on the Pyramus, — 
 the two latter seem to be tolerably near the truth. 
 
 * Cicer. ubi supra. f Q. Curt. 1. 3. c. 7- 
 
 X h-jTioyjiu. iKrri KiXikicc; s« rol) HvgKftov. 
 
 Stcphan. in ' Kvrdyjta.. 
 
 % Mxh'hoc, l-poiiroXi;, Ai'ycci, ' laao;. Ptolem. 1. 5. C. 8. 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 SOME REMARKS ON THE COMPARATIVE GEOGRAPHY 
 OF THE WESTERN AND NORTHERN PARTS OF 
 ASIA MINOR. 
 
 Principal places in Peraa Rhodia — in Doris — ih Caria — in the 
 valley of the Mceander — in the valley of the Caystrus — on the 
 coast of Ionia — in the valleys of the Hermus and Caicus, and 
 in the adjacent country — in Troas — in Bithynia — in Paphla- 
 gonia. 
 
 It remains to submit to the reader some obser- 
 vations in justification of the ancient names in the 
 western and northern parts of the map which ac- 
 companies the present volume. It will not be ne- 
 cessary to enter into this part of the subject so 
 fully as into those which have already been under 
 consideration. The western provinces, in conse- 
 quence of their celebrity and greater advantages of 
 climate, soil, and situation, have been more fully 
 described, both by ancient and modern writers; so 
 that, in conducting the reader to the results re- 
 corded on the map, a general reference on the one 
 hand to the travellers whose routes are there marked, 
 and on the other to the ancient historians, geo- 
 graphers, and itineraries, will be sufficient. In 
 those instances only, it may be necessary to be 
 more particular, where the ancient positions are 
 determined by less obvious authorities or by unpub- 
 
220 
 
 Ch. 0. 
 
 lished documents, or where the question is ren- 
 dered doubtful by deficient or conflicting evidence. 
 As to the north-eastern part of the peninsula, we 
 must be contented with a brief notice of its geogra- 
 phy, for a reason the reverse of that which induces 
 me to abridge the geographical notice of the pro- 
 vinces bordering on the ^Eg.ean sea. The distance 
 of Paphlagonia and Eastern Bithynia from the cen- 
 tre of Grecian civilization, and the little attention 
 which those countries have received from ancient 
 history, have hardly tempted a single traveller to 
 trust himself among their barbarous tribes, or to 
 explore their mountains and forests; and hence the 
 evidences of the geography of that country, both 
 ancient and modern, are extremely imperfect. 
 
 I shall begin from the western extremity of Captain 
 Beaufort's Survey, and shall proceed to the westward 
 and northward from the same point at which the re- 
 marks of the preceding chapter set out in the oppo- 
 site direction. It so happens that Dtedala is precisely 
 the point at which Strabo also changes the course of 
 his observations; and from which, after describing 
 the coast of Caria with the adjacent islands and con- 
 tinent in a western direction, he proceeds, as we 
 have seen in the translated extract at the beginning 
 of the last chapter, to direct his description of 
 Lycia, Pamphylia, and Cilicia, from west to east. 
 
 Captain Beaufort not having surveyed any part 
 of the coast between Telmissus and Halicarnassus, 
 
Ch. G. 
 
 221 
 
 excepting that near Cnidus; and no traveller hav- 
 ing pretended to publish a delineation of it, except 
 M. de Choiseul Gouffier, whose map is too obvi- 
 ously incorrect, both in construction and in detail, 
 to merit much attention; this part of the coast-line 
 of Asia is more subject to a suspicion of inaccuracy 
 than any other. The important positions of Rho- 
 dus, Cnidus, Cos, and Halicarnassus, are indeed as- 
 certained by the observations of Captain Beaufort, 
 and I have derived some assistance from a few 
 measurements taken with the compass and sex- 
 tant from the same places, by Sir William Gell; 
 but no reliance can yet be placed on the outline of 
 the gulfs of Syme and Kos: even the extent of those 
 magnificent bays is very uncertain, and nothing is 
 known of the situation of the numerous towns and 
 islands placed in them by the ancient authors, espe- 
 cially by Pliny: in short, the exploring of these two 
 gulfs with that of the coast in the vicinity of Cau- 
 nus, is now one of the most interesting desiderata 
 in the geography of Asia Minor. 
 
 Strabo * describes Peraea as beginning at the 
 fort and mountain Dasdala, near Telmissus, and as 
 ending at mount Phcenix, both places included. 
 "Next to the gulf Glaucus occurs the cape and tem- 
 ple Artemisium, and then the grove of Latona ; 
 above which, 60 stades inland, is the city Calynda, 
 then Caunus, a city with docks and a closed port ; 
 
 * Strabo, p. 651, 655, fj<M, 66j. 
 
222 
 
 Ch. 6. 
 
 and near it the Calbis, navigable by boats. Be- 
 tween Caunus and the Calbis is Pisilis ; and on a 
 height above Caunus is a fcrt named Imbrus. The 
 next place on the coast to Caunus is Physcus, a 
 small city which has a harbour and a grove of La- 
 tona ; then the rugged coast of Loryma, the high- 
 est mountain above which is named Phoenix, and 
 has a castle of the same name on its summit. Be- 
 fore this coast lies Elseussa, 4 stades from the sea, 
 8 stades in circumference, and 120 stades distant 
 from Rhodus. Beyond Loryma is the cape Cynos- 
 sema and the island Syme." 
 
 As it appears from another passage in Strabo *, 
 where he cites Artemidorus, that the common road 
 from this coast to the northward, was from Physcus 
 by Alabanda and Tralles, there seems little doubt 
 that Physcus was at Marmara, which is still the 
 usual place of debarkation from Rodos to those 
 going towards Ghiuzel-hisEar and Smyrna. 
 
 The distances of Elasussa and port Cressa from 
 Rhodus, as given by Strabo and Pliny t, are suffi- 
 ciently accurate to identify those two places. The 
 excellent harbour of Cressa is now called Aplothika 
 
 * Strabo, p. 663. Strabo has committed a great error in 
 stating that Physcus was the nearest point of the coast to My'- 
 lasa. The gulf of Kos is not one-third of the distance of Mar- 
 mara from Mylasa. 
 
 t Caria media; Doridi circumfunditur ad mare utroque la- 
 tere ambiens : in ea promontorium Pedalium, amnis Glaucus 
 deferens Telmissum; oppida Dacdala, Crva fngitivorum : fliimen 
 
Ch. 0. 
 
 1223 
 
 by the Greeks, and Porto Cavaliere by the Italians, 
 and on its western shore are the ruins of a Hellenic 
 fortress and town, which are undoubtedly those of 
 Lory ma j for Loryma is called a city by Seneca # 
 and Stephanus, although not so designated by Strabo 
 or by Pliny; and port Loryma is described by Livy 
 as being opposite to Rhodusf, at a little more 
 than the distance J which Pliny assigns to Cressa. 
 The order of names on this coast in Ptolemy § is in 
 exact agreement with the other authorities which 
 I have cited in proof of their position, as marked 
 on the map, if we suppose his cape Onugnatus to 
 be the same as the Cynosema of Strabo. 
 
 Although Choisseul Gouffier must have nearly 
 crossed the sites of Daedala and Calynda, he did 
 not ascertain the position of either of them : nor 
 has that of Caunus, the chief city of Persea, yet 
 been explored. The promontory called by Strabo 
 Artemisium, from the temple of Diana which 
 
 Axon : oppidum Calydna * * oppidum Caunos liberum ; deinde 
 Pyrnos, portus Cressa a quo Rhodus insula xx M.j locus Lo- 
 ryma. Plin. Hist. Nat. 1. 5. c. 27. 
 
 Here Pyrnus occupies the place of Physcus, which ought 
 perhaps to be substituted for the former word. 
 
 * Senec. Qu. Nat. 1.3. c. 19. 
 
 t Liv. 1. 37. c 17. 
 
 X viginti paullo amplius millia. Liv. 1. 45. c. 10. 
 
 § KviSo; ttoXis xa» axpoc, 'Ovouyvotdos ockox' Awpvpa, Kprjirtrct, 
 Aj'aryv, 4>om£, $ov<rxu, KaAfioj nroray.ou bkGoXx), Kavvos, Ka- 
 AivJa, Xvftou, Kacva, AaioaAa roiro;, TfApjcrcroj. Ptol. 1. 5 
 c 2. 3. 
 
224 
 
 Cli. o\ 
 
 stood upon it, appears to have been the same as 
 the Pedalium of Pliny and the Stadiasmus, and to 
 be the cape now called Bokomadhi. 
 
 The Clydse, which the Stadiasmus * names be- 
 tween Pedalium and Crua (Crya) is evidently the 
 same as the Chydae, which Ptolemy places a little 
 to the westward of Crya, and Crya is undoubtedly 
 the Cryassus of Stephanus and Plutarch \. We 
 are not surprised at finding in the modern town 
 of Rodos an inscription J, in which Cryassus and 
 Chaice (the island still called Khalki) are alluded 
 to, both these places having been dependencies of 
 the Rhodian republic. The islands off the coast 
 
 * Aotirov Kapla,. 
 
 'Eh Te\y,£v<rov si; AxlSaha. errao\ v. (50.) 
 
 'Ex AaJ&zAwv iig KaAAijxap^v <rra$. v. (50.) 
 
 'En KaAAifta^ijc els Kpoiiav <rra.§. £. (60.) 
 
 'Ex Kpovwv el; tov Koyjkiav <rtaS. v. (50.) 
 
 'Ex KXvSwv iff) to IlijfaXioy dxpuirypM crra6\ A. (30 ) 
 
 'Airo too UyficuXiov sir) tov 'Ayxwva tov JttJ too TAauKOu crrxo. 
 t. (80.) 
 
 'Airb rov 'Ayy.wvos sir) rwv Kovvlwv (lege Kavvlwv) llxvopfxov 
 vrat.px. (120.) 
 
 200 stades from Pedalium to Panormus of the Caunii is nearly 
 the real distance from cape Bokomadhi to port Karagatsh, and 
 renders it probable that the latter was the ancient Panormus, 
 a name which well applies to that fine basin. Its having been 
 a part of the territory of the Caunii, may perhaps account for 
 other authorities having omitted to mention it. 
 
 f Plutarch, de Virt. Mul. 
 
 X AYSANAPOY AYSANAPOY 
 
 XAAKHTA KAI ITNAIK02 
 K M'.ATNiAOS KAAAIKPATIAA 
 KPYA2SIAOS. 
 
Ch. 6. 
 
 •225 
 
 of Dsedala and Cry a are noticed by Pliny *, who 
 says there were two belonging to the Daedalenses; 
 and three, two of which are by Stephanus f named 
 Alina and Carysis, belonging to the Cryenses. 
 
 In consequence of our ignorance of the actual 
 topography of the gulfs of Doris and Ceramus, I 
 have not attempted to place any of their towns, 
 even con ecturally, except Euthense, which is stated 
 by Mela J to have been in a bay between Cnidus 
 and the Ceramic gulf: Bargasa and Ceramus are 
 described by Strabo§ as being near the sea, be- 
 tween Cnidus and Halicarnassus ; and Passala, an 
 island in the same gulf, was the port of the My- 
 lassenses||. The modern name Ke>amo, which, if 
 it exists, identifies the site of Ceramus, rests, I be- 
 lieve, solely upon the authority of D'Anville. 
 
 The Dorian colonies from the Peloponnesus, 
 which settled in Halicarnassus, Cnidus, Cos, and 
 in the three cities of Rhodus, introduced the use 
 of Doric architecture, and of the Doric dialect, into 
 this angle of Caria. Remains of Doric buildings 
 are found at Lindus, Cnidus, and Halicarnassus^]"; 
 
 * Plin. 1. 5. c. 31. 
 
 t Stephan. in Kpvot. — Stephanus has distinguished Cryafrom 
 Cryassus, ascribing the former to Lycia and the latter to Caria, 
 copying Artemidorus for the former, and Plutarch for the latter. 
 The distinction is probably an error ; unless Crya was the old site, 
 and that the other was the new Cryassus mentioned by Plutarch. 
 
 % Pomp. Mel. 1. 1. c. 16. § Strabo, p. 656. 
 
 !! Plin. Hist. Nat. 1. 5. c. 31. Stephanus in nd<r<ruXa. 
 
 If At Lindus are the ruins of a dodecastyle Doric portico 
 in front of a cavern, at Cnidus there is a Doric stoa. and at 
 
■ 
 
 '}2. 
 
 226 Ch. 6. 
 
 and inscriptions in the Doric dialect have been found 
 in most of the cities of the Hexapolis. It appears 
 that they had not neglected the latter mark of their 
 origin in the early ages of the Roman empire *. 
 
 Halicarnassus are the ruins of a large Doric temDle, supposed 
 by Choiseul Gouffier, who has published a design of it, to 
 have been the temple of Mars mentioned by Vitruvius. 
 
 It is not to be supposed that the people of the Hexapolis 
 confined themselves to Doric architecture, being so near the 
 country where the Ionic originated and was brought to per- 
 fection. At all the three places just mentioned, but particu- 
 
 Jf , u/f '/./.(■. .- L larly at Cnidus, we find examples of the other orders. 
 
 f , ' n *^L,r,,.u Cnidus formed one of the most important objects of the late 
 mission of the Society of Dilettanti. There is hardly any ruined 
 Greek city in existence which contains examples of Greek 
 architecture in so many different branches. There are still to 
 be seen remains of the city walls, of two closed ports, of several 
 temples, of stoae, of artificial terraces for the public and private 
 buildings, of three theatres, one of which is 400 feet in dia- 
 meter, and of a great number of sepulchral monuments. De- 
 signs of the most important of these curious remains are about 
 to be published by the Society of Dilettanti. 
 * The following is an inscription at Cnidus : 
 
 A BOYAA KAI O AAMOS 
 AYPHAIAN EIPHNHN 6YTATEPA MEN 
 NEIKAAA TYNAIKA AE TOY IIANTA- 
 APTSTOY.MAP. AYP. EYAO^OY AIS 
 IEPEQS AIA BIOY TOY METISTOY KAI EN- 
 4>ANE2TATOY 0EOY HAIOY KAI AAMI- 
 OYPrOY, APETA BIOY KAI 2£M>P02YNA 
 KEKOSMAIMENAN, riANIirYPIAI'XIISASAN 
 4>IAOTEIIVmS KAI Eni4>ANiiS, TAN TEI- 
 MAN ANASTANTOS *EK TON IAIilN 
 TOY ANAPOS AYTAS KAO A TA IIATPIAI 
 YHESXETO eE0IS 
 
 In a fragment of another Doric inscription at Cnidus, men- 
 
Ch. 6. 
 
 227 
 
 The conversion into a peninsula of the island 
 on which Strabo and Stephanus represent Jasus 
 (now Asy'n Kale) to have stood, is probably a re- 
 mote effect of the encroachments of the Mseander 
 upon the sea. We find another instance of the 
 same kind at Caryanda : for there can be little 
 doubt that the large peninsula, towards the west- 
 ern end of which is the fine harbour called by the 
 Turks Pasha Limdni, is the ancient island of 
 Caryanda, now joined to the main by a narrow 
 sandy isthmus. Pasha Limani (the port of the 
 Pasha) is the harbour of Caryanda, noticed by 
 Strabo, Scylax, and Stephanus; its position ac- 
 
 tion is again made of the officer called Sa^tovpyog ; also of 
 a yupviKog dyuiv TTsvrasT^piKOs held at Cnidus. It was, pro- 
 bably, for these quinquennial celebrations, common, no doubt, 
 to all the surrounding country, that the great theatre at Cnidus 
 was principally intended. 
 
 In an inscription copied by Chandler (Ins. Ant. p. J 9), at 
 Iasus (Asy'n Kale), we find a decree of the Calymnii cited at 
 length. This decree is in the Doric dialect, whereas that of the 
 lasenses which contains it is in common Hellenic. We are 
 informed by Herodotus (1. 7. c. 99.) that the islands Calydniae, 
 of which Calymna was the chief, were colonized from Epidau- 
 rus j they were consequently included (as was Nisyrus likewise) 
 among the Dorians of the Hexapolis. 
 
 In Mitylene I found several inscriptions, shewing that the 
 use of the /Eolic dialect was preserved to a late period in that 
 island, which was colonized from Thessaly : the most remark- 
 able form is BOAAA forBOTAH, and B0AAETTA2 for BOT- 
 AETTH2. 
 
 Pococke has given copies (very inaccurately as usual) of 
 
 Q. 2 
 
2-28 
 
 Ch. 6. 
 
 cording with that of the other places along this 
 coast, as described by Strabo. " Next to Halicar- 
 nassus," he says, " is Termerium, a cape of the 
 Myndii, opposite to cape Scandaria of Cos. * * * 
 Proceeding towards Myndus are the capes Astypaleea 
 and Zephyrium; and immediately beyond the latter, 
 the city Myndus, with a harbour: then Bargylia, 
 also a city, between which and Myndus is the har- 
 bour and the island of Caryanda*. Near Bargylia is 
 the temple of Diana Cindyas. Next occurs Iasus." 
 
 We can hardly doubt that Myndus stood in the 
 small sheltered port of Gumishlu, where Captain 
 Beaufort remarked the remains of an ancient pier 
 at the entrance of the port, and some ruins at the 
 head of the bay. The cape to the southward of 
 this port will consequently be Zephyrium; and it 
 
 some of these inscriptions (lnscr. Antiq. p. 45) ; and one is to 
 be seen in Gruter, p. 1091. 
 
 In reference to the use of the Doric dialect by the colonies 
 of that race of Greeks, it may be worthy of remark that the 
 Greek inscription of the time of Psammetichus king of Egypt, 
 lately discovered by Mr. W. Bankes on the temple of Ibsambal 
 in Nubia, appears from the words ^aaarj^o 'EXe<pavr(vav,and 
 rot for ol, to be in the Doric dialect. Herodotus tells us that 
 the Greeks in the service of Psammetichus were Ionians and 
 Carians : those who inscribed the temple of Ibsambal may 
 therefore have been from the Carian Doris. It was perhaps in 
 memory of these first Greek settlers in Upper Egypt that the 
 Greeks of the Thebais often used the Doric dialect as late as 
 the time of the Roman emperors. 
 
 * Pliny also (Hist. Nat, 1.5. c. 31.) numbers Caryanda 
 among the islands. 
 
Ch. 6. 
 
 229 
 
 is not improbable that the ruins which the same 
 traveller observed at Kadi Kalesi, in a bay on the 
 south side of that cape, are those of a small ancient 
 town of the same name, which has not been no- 
 ticed by the ancient authors. 
 
 Such having been the situation of Myndus and 
 of Caryanda, Bargylia (called Andanus * in the 
 Carian language) should be sought for on the coast 
 between Pasha Limani and Asy'n Kalesi: this po- 
 sition, it may be added, agrees with that which 
 Melaf ascribes to Bargylia, as well as with the 
 fact that the gulf of lasus was often called the 
 gulf of Bargylia +. 
 
 Of the interior cities of Caria, Stratoniceia is 
 shown to have been at Eskihissar, by the important 
 ruins which have given rise to the modern name, 
 in conjunction with an inscription § found there, 
 
 * Stephan.in BdpyvXx. Const. Porph. deThem. 1. 1. th. 14. 
 t* sinus Iasius et Basilicus. In Iasio est Bargylos. 
 
 Stephan. in BdgyvXa. Constant. 
 
 Pomp. Mel. 1. 1. c. 16 
 
 t Liv. 1.37. c. 17. 
 Porph. ubi supr. 
 
 § Chishull, Antiq. Asiat. p. 155. — This inscription was co- 
 pied at Eski-hissar in 1 709, by the celebrated botanist Sherard, 
 then British Consul at Smyrna. He also copied at the same 
 place, a long Latin inscription, containing a list of the prices 
 of various commodities, as regulated by one of the Roman em- 
 perors — which has recently been excavated and more com- 
 pletely transcribed by Mr. W. Bankes. Sherard presented to 
 the Earl of Oxford a volume containing copies of between three 
 and four hundred inscriptions collected by him in Asia Minor. 
 This MS. is now in the British Museum. Catal. Harl. Cod. 7509. 
 
230 
 
 Ch. 6. 
 
 which relates to Jupiter Chrysaoreus, the deity par- 
 ticularly worshipped at Stratoniceia. 
 
 The names of Lagir.a and Mylasa still subsist, 
 slightly corrupted. Of the latter city there are 
 many remains; but that which constituted its most 
 remarkable antiquity in the time of Pococke, the 
 temple of Rome and Augustus, was destroyed about 
 the middle of the last century by the Turks, who 
 built a new mosque with the materials*. 
 
 The situation of Alabanda is still doubtful ; and 
 the ancient testimony on that of Labranda is so 
 much connected with it, that the same uncertainty 
 prevails as to the site of the latter. The follow- 
 ing is the substance of what Strabo says of these 
 places: 
 
 Labranda was a dependency of Mylasa, distant 
 from thence 68 stades, and situated in the moun- 
 tain over which lay the route from Mylasa to Ala- 
 banda. As far as Labranda there was a paved road, 
 which, as leading to the temple of Jupiter Stratius, 
 (otherwise named Labrandenus,) was called the Sa- 
 cred Way f . Alabanda stood at the foot of a hill with 
 a double summit, which resembled an ass bearing 
 a pack-saddle. It was situated near a very winding 
 
 * Pococke, vol. 2. part 2. c. 6. Chandler, Asia Minor, c. <5(i. 
 
 t Ta 8a ActSpxvSx. Kcou^rj e<tt)v Iv rw opsi ■nxroi ryv l£ AXa- 
 GoivScuv slg fa MCXatra, aitwQev rrjc tfcXsws' ivravba AtoV Iffi 
 vsu>s dp'/jttas kou %6&vov Aio$ SrpaWoy. r fi[/.dtoa £' vito Tuiv 
 xuhAcu xa* vtto rwv MuXoctsujv o$6< re sarpwrxi vysliv ri oktw 
 
Ch. 6. 
 
 231 
 
 river, and its territory was separated by a ridge of 
 hills from that of Mylasa *. 
 
 Pococke and Chandler supposed Alabanda to 
 have been at Karpiisli, where they found sepulchres 
 and the remains of public buildings, of a theatre, 
 and of town walls; and Chandler was the first to 
 describe the ruins (at Iakli, not far to the southward 
 of Kizeljik or Mendeliat,) of a small fortified town 
 containing a theatre, and a ruined temple of the 
 Corinthian order, of which 16 columns of 2~ feet 
 in diameter, with a part of the entablature, were 
 standing in the year 1776. This, Chandler sup- 
 posed to have been the temple of Jupiter of La- 
 branda f . M. de Choiseul Gouffier X and M. Bar- 
 bie - du Bocage§ were of a different opinion. With- 
 out pretending to determine the position of Ala- 
 banda, they agreed in thinking that the ruins at 
 
 xx) kfyxovrx crrxSiuiv p'tyjpi rrjS itoXeojs tsgd, xxXovjasvy) ${ fy 
 irofjt.iroo-T'oXelTa.i ?x Ispx. Strabo, p. 659. 
 
 MYmn (de Nat. Anim. 1. 12. c. 30.) says that 70 stades was 
 the distance between Alabanda and Mylasa. 
 
 * 'A\x£xv8x Ss xx) x'vrrj yJzv vtoxeitxi \o$ois Sv<r) trvyxsi- 
 fj*£voig 0'jTcv$, uxrr o^Jtv irxpa^scrQxi xxvQrjhiov KXTivrpxpftsvov 
 * * * /x£crr>j 5' set) xx) xvfri xx) -fj rwv MuXxtrscvv iroXi$ rdSv 
 Qyplujv rourujv (o-xopirlcuv) xx) >)' pusTxfcv itxtrx opeivrj. 
 
 Strabo, p. 660. 
 
 itoKXxs Ss (§lxQx<TSl$ ry xufr, oSui zyzi) xx) (6 ito- 
 
 rxpbs) o ex Koffxivlwv sis 'AXx^xvSx. Strabo, p. 587. 
 
 f Antiquities of Ionia, part 1. c. 4. Chandler, Asia Minor, 
 c. 58. 
 
 I Voyage Pittoresque de la Grece, c. 1 1 . 
 
 § Voyage de Chandler, torn. 2. p. 248. 
 
232 
 
 Ch. 6. 
 
 Iakli are those of Euromus, which we know from 
 Polybius and Livy * to have been one of the most 
 important places in this part of the country, at the 
 time of the Roman wars ; and from Strabo, to have 
 been situated, as the ruins at Iakli are, near the 
 eastern extremity of Mount Grium f. It appears, 
 moreover, from a coin of the emperor Caracalla^, 
 that the Jupiter of Euromus had considerable ce- 
 lebrity; to him, therefore, the existing temple may 
 have been sacred, and not to Jupiter of Labranda: 
 in favour of which opinion, it may be added that 
 the temple of Labranda was noted for its antiquity, 
 whereas the architecture at Iakli is of Roman 
 times. 
 
 On the other hand, it may be remarked that the 
 distance of Iakli from Mylasa agrees tolerably with 
 the 68 or 70 stades between that place and Labran- 
 da ; that supposing Alabanda to have been at Kar- 
 pusli, the direction of Iakli from Mylasa is not much 
 to the left of a line drawn from thence to Karpiisli : 
 and that the deviation is a natural consequence of 
 the projection westward of the range of hills, a part 
 of which overhangs the temple at Iakli. 
 
 There are some reasons, however, for thinking 
 
 * Polyh. 1. 17. c. 2 — !. 18. c. 27.— 1. 30, c. 5. I>iv. 1 33. 
 c. 30.— 1.45. c.25. 
 
 t to Tplov TtapdXXrjKov rw Aafpcy, dvrJKOv dirb rrjf 
 
 Mi\Y,<rla$ irpof Iw, fod rrj; Kaplas ^XP 1 Evpuipov xa) XaAxij- 
 rdpcuv. Strabo, p. G35. 
 
 J Vwllant Num. Grsec. Eckhd Doct. Num. Vet. Caria. 
 
Ch. 6. 
 
 233 
 
 that Alabanda was not at Karpdsli, but at Ara- 
 bissar. 1. Pococke describes the ancient remains 
 at Arabissar as consisting of town-walls, a theatre, 
 and a large oblong Roman building with windows, 
 which appeared to him to have been intended for 
 public assemblies : he adds that the city occupied 
 the slope and foot of two hills. Now the two hills 
 accord with Strabo's description of Alabanda ; and 
 the oblong building may have belonged to the 
 Roman conventus of which Alabanda was the chief 
 town *. 2. The river Tshina, near Arabissar, ac- 
 cords extremely well with the river upon which 
 Alabanda was situated ; as do the mountains which 
 separate its valley from the plain of Mylasa, with 
 the geographer's words, 7) (astgcz,u ops/w), relating to 
 the mountain between Mylasa and Alabanda. — 
 3. The other words of Strabo, descriptive of the 
 situation of the temple, iv rco ogzi, and of the road 
 which led to Labranda from Mylasa, tend to show 
 that the temple was on a mountain, and that 
 the road thither did not lead through a plain like 
 that from Mylasa to Iakli. It may be added, 4. that 
 the ancient gate at Mylasa, upon which Chandler 
 observed the figure of a hatchet, the symbol of 
 Jupiter Labrandenus, and from which he inferred 
 that it was the gate leading to Labranda, does not 
 open towards Iakli, but faces the east towards the 
 
 * riin. Hist. Nat. 1. 5. c. 29. 
 
234 
 
 Ch. 6. 
 
 mountain and Arabissar *. Upon the whole, there- 
 fore, I am inclined to think that Alabanda was at 
 Arabissar, and Euromus at Iakli; and that the ves- 
 tiges of Labranda will hereafter be found on the 
 mountain to the north-eastward of Mylasa. The 
 ancient remains at Karpiisli are perhaps those of 
 Orthosia. This was a place of some importance ; 
 and we know that it was situated in the country to 
 the southward of the Mseander, opposite to Tralles 
 and Nysa ; that it was not far from Coscinia f, and 
 that Coscinia was upon the same river as Alabanda^. 
 
 If Alabanda was at Arabissar, Tshina, where 
 Pococke § found considerable remains, may be the 
 site of Coscinia, and its modern name may possibly 
 be a corruption of the ancient. 
 
 M. Barbie du Bocago || has with great reason 
 supposed that the river of Tshina was the branch 
 of the Maeander called Marsyas by Herodotus ^f. 
 The historian describes the Marsyas as flowing 
 from the country of Idrias into the Mseander ; and 
 
 * Chandler, Asia Minor, c. 56. 
 
 t • . . .irsplxeivrou 8s dfyoXoyoi naTom'tai TreoccvToH Maiavfyov, 
 KoaKtvia act,) 'OpQujaia. Strabo, p. 650. 
 
 \ Strabo, p. 587. vide supra. 
 
 § Pococke, vol. 2. part 2. c. 9. — It is impossible from Po- 
 cocke's confused narrative to understand either the exact course 
 of the river Tshina, or the position of the places in its vicinity. 
 The attempt to describe them on the map must therefore be 
 considered as a mere approximation. 
 
 I! Voyage de Chandler, tome 2. p. 252. 
 
 % Herodot. 1. 5. c. 118. 
 
Ch. 6. 
 
 235 
 
 he relates that the Persians under Daurises having 
 met the revolted Carians not far from the junction 
 of the two streams, the Carians were defeated, and 
 retired to Labranda, where they took up a position 
 in the sacred grove, and were joined by the Milesii 
 and others of their allies. They were defeated a 
 second time, and the Persians continued to advance 
 into Caria, until the Carians, attacking the invaders 
 by night on the road to Pedasus, were in their turn 
 victorious, and slew Daurises and several others of 
 the Persian leaders. It is evident that the Marsyas 
 of which the historian here speaks was a Carian 
 river, totally different from the stream or fountain 
 of the same name at Celaense, the course of which 
 was not longer than that city itself*. Idrias was one 
 of the earlier names of the city, which under the Ma- 
 cedonians assumed the name of Stratoniceia, and 
 its territory included Lagina, celebrated for a temple 
 of Hecate (". The latter place still preserves its an- 
 cient name, and not far from it are the sources of 
 the Tshina. It may be further observed, in con- 
 firmation of the identity of this river with the Mar- 
 syas of Herodotus, that the retreat of the Carians 
 
 * See above, chapter 4. p. 159. 
 
 t Strabo, p. 660. Stephan. in 'Exanjo-ja, 'iS^i&s, Xpucroiopts. 
 All these were ancient names of Stratoniceia. In consequence 
 of some restorations by Hadrian, it afterwards received that of 
 Hadrianopolis, but did not long retain the appellation. See 
 Hierocles Synec. The worship of Hecate is mentioned in the 
 inscription of Stratoniceia, published by Chishull. 
 
236 
 
 Ch. 6. 
 
 from its valley into the hills to the westward was a 
 very natural movement, and perfectly conformable 
 with the other circumstances of these transactions. 
 In opposition to the placing of Alabanda at Ara- 
 bissar will perhaps be adduced the distances on the 
 road which led from Physcus by Tralles to Smyrna, 
 as stated by Artemidorus, and preserved by Strabo*. 
 These distances are from Physcus to Lagina 850 
 stades, to Alabanda 250, to the Mseander, which 
 was the boundary of Caria, 80, to Tralles 80, to 
 Magnesia 140, to Ephesus 120, to Smyrna 320, — 
 total from Physcus to Tralles 1260, from Tralles 
 to Smyrna 580. The numbers from Tralles to 
 Smyrna agree tolerably well with the reality : but 
 it is sufficient to refer for a moment to the map, to 
 perceive how totally unworthy of credit those on the 
 road from Physcus to Tralles must be, both in the 
 aggregate and in detail. The 1*260 stades are 
 represented on the map by only 60 geographical 
 miles in direct distance, making more than 20 stades 
 to a mile. Instead of 850 stades from Physcus 
 to Lagina, there could not have been with all the 
 windings of the road more than 300 ; nor are there 
 more than 50, instead of 80, from the Mseander to 
 the ruins of Tralles. The evidence of position de- 
 rived from this passage may therefore be rejected, 
 except inasmuch as it shows that Alabanda lay in 
 the road from Physcus to Tralles. 
 * Strabo, p. 663. 
 
Ch. 6. 
 
 237 
 
 The second-rate places of Caria, dependent upon 
 the chief cities of the coast, or upon the three great 
 towns of the interior, were Euromus, Chalcetor, 
 Heracleia, and Amyzon *. 
 
 As Mount Grium extended from the Milesia 
 eastward to Chalcetor and Euromus f, Chalcetor 
 would perhaps be found, supposing Euromus to 
 have been at Iakli, at the foot of the mountain 
 which lies between that place and Asy'n Ka- 
 lesi. 
 
 The Heracleia mentioned by Strabo among the 
 four smaller towns of the interior of Caria, is not 
 the same as the Heracleia under Mount Latmus 
 which he describes elsewhere, for this was a mari- 
 time town. It must therefore be the same which 
 Ptolemy distinguishes from Heracleia of Latmus 
 (t^oV AdTpv) by the name of Heracleia of Albanum 
 (t£oV 'Ak&uvu). Whether Albanum was the name 
 of a river or mountain it is difficult to say ; — but 
 the traveller might perhaps seek for the site of this 
 Heracleia, with some prospect of success, in the 
 situation in which it stands in the enumeration of 
 the towns of this country by Pliny J, namely, be- 
 tween Euromus and Amyzon. 
 
 The ruins of the citadel and town-walls of Amy- 
 zon are to be seen on the eastern side of Mount 
 
 * Strabo, p. 658. 
 
 t Strabo, p. 635. See p. 232, note t. 
 
 t Plin. Hist. Nat. 1. 5. c. 29. 
 
238 
 
 Ch. 6. 
 
 Latmus on the road from Ban toTchisme, one hour 
 short of the latter, and a little above some villages 
 called Kafaslar. Mr. Hamilton here copied an 
 inscription in a very defective state of preservation, 
 of which however some of the expressions are di- 
 stinguishable. Towards the beginning I observe 
 AMYTONEftN and XAIPEIN. When the letters of 
 the inscription were perfect, the former word was 
 undoubtedly AMYIONEON, and it proves that these 
 remains belonged to Amyzon *. Mixed with Hel- 
 lenic ruins, there are others at this place, of the 
 date of the Byzantine empire, — a circumstance 
 which agrees with the mention made of Amyzon 
 among the places of Caria in Hierocles, and in the 
 list of Greek bishoprics. 
 
 The city of Latmus or Heracleia at Mount 
 Latmus has preserved considerable remains of its 
 
 * The form of the letters in this inscription seems to show 
 that its date is about the time of the first wars of the Ro- 
 mans in Asia. It was an epistle addressed to the Amyzo- 
 nenses by some person in power : beginning with the usual 
 form of salutation, and ending with the no less customary EP- 
 PI220E. In the Classical Journal, No. 28, the reader will 
 find an inscription nearly of the same tenor and date, which I 
 copied at Cyretiae in Perrhcebia, and which was an epistle ad- 
 dressed to the people of that place by the Consul Titus Quinc- 
 tius Flamininus, when he commanded the Roman army in 
 Greece against the king of Macedonia, Philip son of Demetrius. 
 In the inscription of Amyzon, besides the two words already 
 stated, 1 distinguish TO IEPON A2TA0N— BASIAE^S ET- 
 NOIAN— KAI MH0ENT ENOXAEIN TMAS. 
 
Ch. 6. 
 
 239 
 
 walls, together with many sepulchres and a small 
 temple. These ruins are found at the foot of a 
 rocky mountain, the ancient Latmus, on the shore 
 of a lake, which takes its name from the village 
 of Ban* near the eastern extremity. This lake is 
 the Latmic Gulf described by Strabo *, but which 
 since his time has been separated from the sea 
 by the new plain formed at the mouth of the Mse- 
 ander. Chandler, not adverting to this remark- 
 able change, mistook the lake of Bafi for that of 
 Myus, and consequently the ruins of Heracleia 
 for those of Myus — an error which was corrected 
 by M. de Cboiseul Gouffier. With this adjust- 
 ment, and the undoubted land-marks afforded by 
 the fine ruins of Priene at Samsunj", and by the 
 
 * Having described Miletus and the islands before it, Lade 
 and the Tragaeae, now heights in the plain, he adds : h%r,$ 8' ea-rh 
 6 Aarpxo^ xoXttos h cZ'Hpd.y.Xsia. ij into ha/r^u) \syou.svy), iroXi^- 
 viov vQop&ov l%ov sttaXslro 8s itporepw Aar/xo; 6puiyvpLUj$ tuj 
 virsgKsipLsvuj o§si. Strabo, p. 635. 
 
 f A re-examination of the ruins of Priene and Branchidae 
 was a principal object of the second Asiatic Mission of the 
 Society of Dilettanti. Their late publication renders it unne- 
 cessary for me to make any observations on the great monu- 
 ments at those two places : but the reader will not be displeased 
 at my here inserting a curious inscription, in Boustrophedon, 
 from Branchidae. It was copied by Sir W. Gell from the chair 
 of a sitting statue on the Sacred Way, or road leading from the 
 sea to the temple of Apollo Didymeus. This road — bordered on 
 either side with statues on chairs of a single block of stone, with 
 the feet close together and the hands on the knees — is an exact 
 imitation of the avenues of the temples in Egypt. The inscrip- 
 
240 
 
 Ch. 6. 
 
 theatre of Miletus at Paldtia, we have accurate 
 data for judging of the progress of the encroach- 
 
 tion (which is perfect to the right and incomplete to the left) is 
 
 as follows : 
 
 i 
 
 AMI Afc&Tft P 
 
 The name at the beginning was probably Hermesianax. It 
 appears by r^aea; (Ion. for ijaaj us) dvaQr/xsv, that the inscribed 
 statue speaks for them all. The word at the beginning of line 3 
 may possibly be BPAN KIAEI2. Of the crasis instanced in TX2- 
 nOAAflNl, there are several examples in the Sigeian inscrip- 
 tion, in the Eleian tablet, and in other monuments of a time 
 when the Greeks wrote rather by sound than grammar. It 
 seems to have been particularly at the end of inscriptions that 
 the Greek ear required an agreeable cadence and combination 
 of vowel sounds ; and hence their inscriptions sometimes ended 
 in metre, although the former part was not constructed by any 
 such rules. Thus the last line of the following Doric inscrip- 
 tion on a helmet lately found at Olympia appears to be the end 
 of a hexameter verse : a supposition which will account for the 
 crasis or omission of two of the vowels. 
 
 T o /4 IT V M /V A. P o K v>vU 
 
 'Iso-j.v I Ativoy.£VEO$ :ta) of Zvpaxoveioi rw AriTvppr t va, diro Kv^i}s- 
 
 The 
 
Ch. 6. 
 
 241 
 
 ments of the Mseander upon the sea, as well as for 
 determining the sites of the two towns of Pyrrha and 
 Myus, the situation of which relatively to Miletus 
 is accurately described by Strabo *. 
 
 The reader has perceived that in the question 
 
 The single instead of double liquid in TVRANA, seems to 
 have been not uncommon in the old Doric — we have AAAA012 
 for dWrjAotg in the Eleian tablet. 
 
 This curious inscription relates to a military expedition of 
 Hiero king of Syracuse, son of Deinomenes, (commonly called 
 Hiero the First,) in aid of the people of Cyme, who had suffered 
 severely from the Tyrrhenian fleet. (Diod. 1. 1 1 . c. 5 1 .) The tri- 
 remes of Hiero gained a brilliant victory and destroyed a great 
 number of Tyrrhenian ships j and the helmet seems to have been 
 among the Tyrrhenian spoils which upon this occasion Hiero 
 and his Syracusans dedicated at Olympia. A few years before 
 this exploit, the same prince had obtained a victory in the 
 Olympic games, which the first Ode of Pindar has made 
 more illustrious than the historian Diodorus has rendered his 
 triumph over the Tyrrhenians : though the poet alludes also to 
 the latter victory. (Pyth. 1. v. 137.) Pausanias, who has de- 
 scribed (Eliac. post, c 12. Arcad. c. 42.) the magnificent de- 
 dications of Deinomenes the son of Hiero, in honour of his fa- 
 ther's three victories in the Olympic games, says nothing of 
 the offerings of Hiero after his success over the Tyrrhenians : 
 but so numerous were these martial dedications at Olympia, 
 that the omission is not surprising. Pausanias had enough to 
 do to describe the great monuments of art and religion. 
 
 * . . . . d<p HpaxXelas eir) Wuppcty itoklyvrp 7r ^°^ sxarov 
 rfov (TTaSlujv. Mixpbv $s i:\sov to dirb MiX^rou s\; 'HpxxXeiav 
 !} xoXrityvrr euQinrXola, §' sis tlvppctv sx MjAijrou rpidxovra.' 
 roa-avryv lyzi paxpoxopiav 6 irstpu, yrjv irXovs .... 'Ex Ss Uvpptx; 
 bit) ryv sxgoXyv rou MaidvSgtv TtevrijKovTcc .... ccvairXsutravrt 
 § VTrv)peTix.o7s <rxx<pe<?t rpiaxwra, o-rccSlovs iroXis MuouV . . . ,*EvQsv 
 ev crra^'&ij- revtrapvi xw^ri Kapwrj ©vpSpia. tto.p ijVAopvo'v tvn 
 
 R 
 
24'2 
 
 Ch. 6. 
 
 concerning the site of Alabanda, that of Tralles 
 has been assumed to have been at Ghiuzel-hissar. 
 It is now time to show that Smith, as well as Po- 
 cocke and Chandler, who too blindly followed the 
 opinion of Smith, were wrong in supposing that 
 town to stand on the site of Magnesia — an error 
 which infallibly led to others of equal importance. 
 M. Barbie" du Rocage in the notes to his translation 
 of Chandler gave convincing reasons for thinking 
 that Ghiuzel-hissar occupied the position of Tralles: 
 but it was not until Mr. Hamilton explored the ruins 
 of Magnesia at Inekbazar*, and discovered the ruins 
 
 cnftjAaiov Ispbv Xapwvsiov hsyopevov 'Tirspxerfcu 8s Mayvr)- 
 
 <ria tJ irpbs MaidvSpw .... Merd 8s rd$ sx£o\ds rou MaidvSpov 
 o Kara, Upiyrp scrrh diyiaXos' vitep aoVoo 8' r t EI/j^vij xai tj 
 MvxdXy) rb opos &c. Strabo, p. 636. I have inserted this pas- 
 sage, as giving, when compared with the actual topography, 
 the clearest idea of the situation of the ancient places and the 
 state of the coast in the time of Strabo. The plain of the Mae- 
 ander as it advanced upon the sea, and converted the com- 
 mercial shores of the maritime cities into unhealthy marshes, 
 successively devoted them to desohtion. Myus in the time of 
 Strabo had recently been abandoned by its inhabitants, who had 
 removed to Miletus ; but the accumulations had not yet shut 
 up the Latmic Gulf. Such having been the causes of the deso- 
 lation of the ancient sites near the mouth of the Maeander ; they 
 are never likely to be reoccupied. In the Voyage Pittoresque 
 of Choiaeul Gouffier, vol. 1. pi. 111., will be found plans by 
 Kauft'er and Barbie - du Bocage, explanatory of the progressive 
 increase of the Maeandrian plain and the consequent changes in 
 the topography. 
 
 * Inekbazar was visited by Van Egmont and Heyman in 
 passing from Skalanova to Ghiuzel-hissar : and one is rather sur- 
 
Ch. 6. 
 
 24.3 
 
 of the celebrated temple of Diana Leucophryene, 
 (which has since been measured and drawn by the 
 Mission of the Society of Dilettanti,) that the ques- 
 tion could be considered as satisfactorily determined. 
 The decisive reasons in proof of the positions of 
 Magnesia, Tralles and Nysa, as marked on the map 
 at Inekbazar, Ghiuzel-hissar and Sultan-hissdr, 
 respectively, shall here be stated as briefly as pos- 
 sible. 
 
 1. Magnesia was according to Pliny 15 miles*, 
 and according to Artemidorus 120 stadesf from 
 Ephesus. This is about the real distance of Inek- 
 bazar, and not half that of Ghiuzel-hissar, from the 
 ruins of Ephesus at Aiasoluk. 
 
 2. Tralles was on the road from Physcus to 
 Ephesus J. But had Magnesia been at Ghiuzel- 
 hissar, Tralles, which was 18 miles according to 
 one author §, or 140 stades according to another ||, 
 to the eastward of Magnesia, must have been about 
 
 prised, that their account of the ruins at that place, although 
 extremely vague, did not lead geographers to the suspicion 
 that at Inekbazar would be found remains of Magnesia and of 
 the temple of Leucophryene. The general dulness and inac- 
 curacy of Ileyman's book may perhaps account for this neglect 
 of its authority. I am ignorant of the exact date of the Travels 
 of the Dutch statesman and of the Oriental scholar of the same 
 nation who was his companion. The English translation was 
 published in 1/59. We are told in the Preface that the travels 
 occupied thirteen years. 
 
 * Plin. Hist. Nat. 1. 5. c. 29. f Artem. ap. Strab. p. 663. 
 
 J Artem. ibid. § Plin. ubi supr. || Artem. ubi supr. 
 
 R 2 
 
244 
 
 Ch. 6. 
 
 Atsha, which is very much out of the direction from 
 Marmara to Ephesus. 
 
 3. We are told by Strabo, that to the traveller 
 going from Magnesia to Tralles, with Mount Mes- 
 sogis on his left hand, the plain on his right be- 
 longed to the Magnetes, and to the people of Myus 
 and Miletus *. But the two last places were too 
 distant to have possessed any part of the plain 
 opposite to Ghiuzel-hissar and Atshd. 
 
 4. Strabo describes Magnesia as situated in a 
 plain at the foot of a mountain called Thorax, not 
 far from the Maeander, but nearer the Lethseus a 
 stream flowing from Pactyas a mountain of the 
 Ephesii f. This description agrees precisely with 
 Inekbazar, in face of which are two insulated hills, 
 which, when all the plain of the Maeander below 
 Inekbazar was sea, were two islands called Derasidse 
 and Sophonia J. Besides the town-walls, theatre, 
 stadium ^, and other indications of the site of a 
 
 * Strabo, p. 648. t Strabo, p. 647. % Plin. ubi supr. 
 
 § It appears to have been very customary with the Asiatic 
 Greeks to make their stadia circular at both ends. Examples 
 exist at Magnesia ad Maeandrum, Tralles, Aphrodisias, Laodi- 
 ceia ad Lycum, and Pergamum. At Magnesia, Tralles, Sardes, 
 and Pergamum, the theatre is placed on one side of the sta- 
 dium thus, 
 
 r\\\ 
 
 i> 
 
 Under the Romans the stadium was sometimes converted into 
 
Ch. 6. 
 
 245 
 
 great city, are the vast prostrate fragments of an oc- 
 tastyle Ionic temple, the peristyle of which was near 
 200 feet in length, and was formed of columns more 
 than 4 feet and a half in diameter. It agrees perfect- 
 ly with the description given of the temple of Diana 
 at Magnesia by Vitruvius* and Strabo f; the former 
 of whom informs us that this building was a pseu- 
 dodipterous octastyle of the Ionic order, and the lat- 
 ter that it was larger than any temple in Asia except 
 those of Diana Ephesia and of Apollo Didymeus, 
 and that it surpassed even the Ephesian temple in 
 harmony and in the construction of the cell (tyj sv- 
 gvOf/jia ftott r?7 riyj/y] rrj itipi rrjv Kuru(rzivrjv rov g7jkov 
 toXv huC'iou). Among the ruins are seen inscribed 
 pedestals which formerly supported statues of Nerva 
 and Marcus Aurelius ; one of these is dedicated by 
 a high priest and scribe of the Magnetes; and on 
 another fragment were found the names of some 
 priestesses of Artemis Leucophryene^. 
 
 an amphitheatre, by building a curved wall across its breadth, so 
 as to form with one of the circular ends a circle or oval. An 
 inscription at Laodiceia, boasting of such a pitiful conversion 
 of the stadium at that place, has been published by Chandler : 
 and Pococke remarked the remains of a similar operation in the 
 stadium of Ephesus. It appears from Strabo that there was an 
 amphitheatre at Nysa : and there is one still existing at Perga- 
 mum ; the latter is a building separate from the theatro-stadium. 
 * Vitruv. praef. in 1. 7. t Strabo, p. 647. 
 
 t 1- 
 
 AYTOKPATOPA KAISAPA 
 
 TON THS KAI 6AA^2- 
 
240 
 
 Ch. 6. 
 
 5. The ruins of Tralles are found above the 
 modern town of Ghiuzel-hissar, in a situation such 
 
 SHE AESTIOTIIN MAP- 
 AYP- ANTONEINON EY- 
 SEBI1 EYTYX1I EE 
 BASTON M- AYP- 2TPA- 
 TONEIKOE K. SIAIKIOS 
 IEPOKAIIE* K- M- AYP- 
 
 0*IAHTOS- K- AYP 
 
 MAE. K. AYL J TA2 
 
 01 APXIEPEI2 KAl ITAM 
 MATE1S ANEST (year) 
 AOriSTEYONTOS 
 KPISnOY ASIA. ... 
 
 2. 
 
 . . . AEE1I 
 
 . . . PATOPA KA . . . . 
 . . M. AYP. ANTQ . . .- 
 . . NON EYEEBII E . . . . 
 
 . . . 2 AIAIAN02 O . . • 
 ...EYE KAI rPAMMA- 
 
 . . . S THE MAPNPmN 
 ... EOS KAI . . 
 3. 
 
 IE- 
 
 PEIA EPENETO APTE- 
 MIAOE AEYK0*PY1I- 
 NI1S A*P0AEI2IA N 
 
 On the same stone as the preceding : 
 APA01I TYXH 
 IEPEIA EPENETO AP- 
 TEMIAOE AEYKOtfPY- 
 
Ch. 6. 
 
 247 
 
 as Strabo * has described — a table summit strong 
 by nature (Jfyvrui Iti rguwiCfov rivog, uzgccv h/fivrog 
 hgvfjupfa). The only ruin well defined is that of the 
 theatre and stadium, which formed one building. 
 The Ionic temple of ^Esculapius built by Argelius, 
 which Vitruvius mentions f , as well as the other 
 works of the purer times of Grecian art, seem to 
 have been buried by earthquakes beneath the ruins 
 of later buildings ; among which are many remains 
 of the architecture of the Lower Empire, vestiges 
 of the restoration of Tralles by Andronicus Palaso- 
 logus^. Pococke copied a Latin inscription at Ghi- 
 uzel-hissar in which the name of Tralles occurs, but 
 
 Although Magnesia was an iEolic city founded by Thessali- 
 ans, (Strabo, p. 64?.) no inscriptions have been found there 
 in the JEolic dialect. 
 
 Pausanias in enumerating the great temples of Ionia has 
 omitted that of Magnesia, possibly because he did not consider 
 its district a part of Ionia. He states the temple of Epbesus 
 to have been the first both for size and riches ; next, the tem- 
 ples of Apollo at Branchidae and at Colophon, neither of which 
 was ever finished ; then the temple of Juno at Samus and of 
 Minerva at Phocaea, both of which had been burnt by the Per- 
 sians, but were still objects of admiration : and after them the 
 temples of Hercules at Erythrae, and of Minerva at Priene ; the 
 former remarkable for its antiquity, the latter for the statue 
 which it contained. Pausan. Achaic. c. 5. The remark of Pau- 
 sanias on the temple of Samus, which in magnitude was second 
 only to that of Diana Ephesia, may account for the neglect of 
 it by Strabo and Vitruvius. The latter was so ill-informed as 
 to call it a Doric building. 
 
 * Strabo, p. 648. t Praef. in 1. 7. 
 
 X Pachymer. Hist. 1. 6. c. 20. Nicephor. Greg. 1. 5. c. 5. 
 
248 
 
 Ch. 6. 
 
 without having observed it. It is found also in two 
 inscriptions copied at Ghiuzel-hissar by Sherard. 
 The site of Tralles is traversed by a torrent answer- 
 ing to the ancient Eudon. 
 
 0. At Sultan-hissar, not far to the westward of 
 Nasli, are the remains of a large city, corresponding 
 with the description which Strabo has given of Nysa. 
 Nysa was situated for the greater part on the slope 
 of Mount Messogis, and was divided by a torrent 
 so as to appear like two separate towns — a bridge 
 traversed this torrent in one place, and in another 
 the valley was occupied by an amphitheatre, beneath 
 which flowed the torrent*. Chandler's account of 
 the ruins at 'Sultan-hissar is exactly conformable 
 with this description of Nysa, — so perfectly in re- 
 gard to the remark of Strabo on the appearance of 
 a double city, that Chandler supposed the western 
 division to be Tralles, and the eastern Nysa. Po- 
 cocke has reported an inscription found at Nasli, 
 which contains the words NYSAEIS and Mastay- 
 peitoy. Possibly Nasli may have been the site of 
 Mastaura. 
 
 The situation of the other dependencies of Nysa, 
 — namely Briula, Aromata, celebrated for its vines, 
 and Acharaca where was a Plutonium and cavern, 
 — have not yet been discovered. The latter was not 
 far from Nysa on the road to Tralles f . 
 
 It may be inferred from Strabo that Hydrela 
 * Strabo, p. 649. t Id. Ibid. 
 
Ch. 6. 
 
 240 
 
 also was in this part of the valley ; and notwith- 
 standing his remark*— that when the three towns 
 founded by Hydrelus and his two brothers fell into 
 decay, their united population formed the single 
 one of Nysa, — Ilydrela appears to have flourished 
 at the time of the Roman wars in Asiaf. 
 
 To the eastward of the Marsyas, or river of 
 Tshina, several other smaller streams join the Mse- 
 ander on its southern bank. That which is nearly 
 opposite to Nasli may perhaps be the Harpasus, 
 which flowed near the town of Harpasa^; for we 
 learn from Pococke §, that some ruins in this situ- 
 ation are called Arpas-Kalesi. Not far to the east- 
 ward of this stream is another, which descends 
 from Gheira and Karajasu. On the eastern side of 
 its junction with the Masander are the remains of 
 an ancient city. This was probably Antiocheia, 
 which stood at the junction of the Mosynus with 
 the Mseander ; having a bridge over the latter river, 
 and a fertile territory on either bank ||. At this 
 bridge it appears that the great eastern road from 
 Ephesus to Mazaca — which passed through Mag- 
 nesia, Tralles, and Nysa — crossed the river, lead- 
 ing afterwards from Antiocheia along the left bank 
 to Carura and Laodiceia •[[. 
 
 * Strabo, p. 650. f Liv. I. 37. c 56. 
 
 t Plin. Hist. Nat. I. 5.C.29. 
 
 § Pococke, vol. 2. part 2. c. 11. 
 
 || Plin. ibid. Strabo, p. 630. 
 
 If Artemidorus ap. Strabon. p. 663. 
 
250 
 
 Cli. 6. 
 
 Other ancient sites were observed in this reeion 
 by Sherard * and Pococke : but all the ancient geo- 
 graphy of the country to the southward of the Mee- 
 ander is still involved in great uncertainty, there 
 being no points absolutely certain except Laodiceia 
 ad Lyeum, Aphrodisias, and Mount Cadmus, now 
 called Baba-dagh. 
 
 Aphrodisias is proved to have been at Gheira, 
 by the numerous remains of antiquity still to be 
 seen at that place. Among these are several in- 
 scriptions containing the name of the people ; and 
 ruins still exist of the temple of Venus |, from 
 whose worship was derived the name by which the 
 city was most commonly known f . 
 
 There can be little doubt that the hot springs 
 observed by Pococke § and Chandler || on the south 
 
 * Sherard was accompanied in a tour to Aphrodisias in the 
 year 170.), by Picenini; and in another in the year 1716, by 
 Lisle. He copied upwards of 100 inscriptions at Aphrodisias, 
 which are to be found in the MS. volume already mentioned. 
 From two of the inscriptions of Aphrodisias, selected for publi- 
 cation by Chishull, it appears that Aphrodisias and Plarassa 
 formed one community, having a governing council and a tem- 
 ple of Venus common to both : coins with a legend of both 
 names are also not very uncommon. Plarassa is designated 
 as a town of Caria by Stephanus. 
 
 t Mr. Gandy, one of the architects of the Mission of the 
 Dilettanti, visited Gheira, and made drawings of the ruins. 
 
 I Its other appellations were Ninoe, Megalopolis, and Le- 
 legopolis. Steph. in MayaXij UoKi; et Noo'ij. 
 
 § Pococke, vol. 2. part 2. c. 12. 
 
 || Chandler, Asia Minor, c. 65. 
 
Ch. 6. 
 
 251 
 
 bunk of the Ma ander, about 12 miles west of Deni- 
 zlii, mark the site of Carina, which was celebrated for 
 its hot baths in the time of Strabo, and was then 
 the boundary of Caria and Phrygia. It was the same 
 place, probably, as the Cydrara of Herodotus ; for 
 either here, or at no great distance, must have been 
 the meeting of the three great roads which the his- 
 torian mentions *, one leading into Lydia through 
 the opening of Mount Messogis by Tripolis to 
 Philadelphia ; a second down the valley of the Mae- 
 ander into Caria ; and the third into Phrygia by the 
 valley of the Lycus and Celamse. Cydrara, in the 
 time of Herodotus, was near the frontier of the 
 three provinces. 
 
 Smith, in his Journey to the Seven Churches in 
 1671, was the first to describe the sites of Laodi- 
 ceia, Hierapolis, Tripolis, and Colossse. In all these 
 places, except Tripolis, he has been followed by Po- 
 cocke, or by Chandler ; and at Hierapolis, recently, 
 by Mr. Cockerell : the general topography and the 
 antiquities which exist in these places are therefore 
 known, although they have not yet been described 
 to the public with sufficient accuracy or detail f. 
 
 Laodiceia |" preserves great remains of its impor- 
 
 * Herodot. 1. 7. c. 30. 
 
 t The Second Mission of the Dilettanti into Asia did not pe- 
 netrate so far as these places. 
 
 X Laodiceia is now a deserted place, called from the ruins 
 Eski-hissar, a Turkish word equivalent to the l'aleokastro, 
 which the Greeks so frequently apply to ancient sites. 
 
252 
 
 Ch. 6. 
 
 tance as the residence of the Roman governors of 
 Asia undyr the emperors; namely, a stadium in un- 
 common preservation, three theatres, one of which 
 is 450 feet in diameter, and the ruins of several 
 other buildings *. 
 
 There are few ancient sites more likely than Lao- 
 diceia to preserve many curious remains of antiquity 
 beneath the surface of the soil : its opulence, and 
 the earthquakes to which it was subject')', rendering 
 it probable that valuable works of art were often 
 there buried, beneath the ruins of the public and 
 private edifices^. And a similar remark, though 
 in a smaller degree perhaps, will apply to the other 
 cities of the vale of the Maeander, as well as to some 
 of those situated to the- north of Mount Tmolus : 
 for Strabo informs us that Philadelphia, Sardes, and 
 Magnesia of Sipylus were not less than Laodiceia 
 and the cities of the Maeander, as far as Apameia at 
 the sources of that river, subject to the same dread- 
 ful calamity §. 
 
 Hierapolis, now called TabukKale or Pambuk- 
 Kale, owed its celebrity, and probably the sanctity 
 indicated by its name, to its very remarkable sources 
 
 * Antiquities of Ionia, part 2. p. 32. — Chandler, Asia Minor, 
 
 C w • 
 
 t Cicero. Epist. ad Am. 1. 2. ep. 17. 1. 3. ep. 5. 1. 5. ep. 20. 
 Tacit. 1. 14. c. 27. 
 
 \ . . . . Ei yap rig aWy xa) rj AaoSixsia, evtrsurTOS ksu rr t s 
 Tt\r l <no')(u)p(iv ro ttXbov. Strabo, p. 578. 
 
 + Strabo, p. 579, 628, 630. 
 
Ch. G. 
 
 253 
 
 of mineral water, the singular effects of which, 
 caused by the rapid accumulation of its deposit, are 
 shown by the narratives of Pococke and Chandler* 
 to have been accurately described by Strahof. A 
 great number and variety of sepulchres are found 
 on the different approaches to the site, which is a 
 commanding hill overlooking. the valleys of the Ly- 
 cus and Maeander, and terminating on that side in 
 a precipice. The town-walls are seen on the other 
 sides, and the main street is traced in its whole 
 length, bordered by three Christian churches, one of 
 which is upwards of 300 feet long. About the mid- 
 dle of the street, just above the mineral sources, Po- 
 cocke, in 1740, thought that he distinguished some 
 remains of the temple of Apollo, which according 
 to Damascius, quoted by Photius, was in this situ- 
 ation |. Chandler distinguished the area of a 
 stadium in a recess of the mountain. But the 
 
 * Pococke, vol. 2. part 2. c. 13.— Chandler, Asia Minor, 
 c CS. 
 
 t Strabo, p. 629, G30. Chandler found at the theatre the 
 beginning of an encomium of Hierapolis : 
 
 Auido; siiQei'm 7r^o0s^i(TTxroi/ ovox; xtxhtuu 
 Xxtgotf Xpva67r(t>< i 'legxTohi kotvix wpQuv 
 'Sxp.xatv xy'hxi'nai Kix.uay.kjYi 
 
 And Smith was the first to copy an inscription mentioning a 
 company of dyers : 
 
 LOVTO TO '{qUOU OTSQotVQt 5} SQyXOIX TUU (ZxQ&UV. 
 
 The latter illustrates Strabo, who tells us the waters of Hierapolis 
 were famous for dyeing, 
 t Phot. Biblioth. p. 1054. 
 
k 2,>4 
 
 Ch. 6. 
 
 principal ruins are a theatre and gymnasium, both 
 in a state of uncommon preservation; the former 
 346 feet in diameter, the latter nearly filling a 
 square space of 400 feet the side. 
 
 Of Tripolis we have a very imperfect description 
 by Smith. Chandler saw at a distance the theatre 
 which Smith mentions. Lucas, the only other tra- 
 veller who has visited the site, was incompetent to 
 give a description of its antiquities; and all that can 
 be understood from his narrative is, that he really 
 did pass by Tripolis, though he writes Kosh-Ye- 
 nije, a village near the ruins of Tripolis, Kasha- 
 shead, and Pambuk-Kalesi, Bambour-quezer. 
 
 The remains of Colossse were found by Smith 
 and Pococke below the modern Khonas ; which 
 name serves to identify the site, as we learn from 
 Constantine Porphyrogennetus * that Colossse was 
 in his time called Chonse (Xcomi). Herodotus f 
 mentions a subterraneous course of the Lycus for 
 about half a mile near this place; but no traveller 
 has yet verified this observation of the historian, or 
 has ascertained the existence of the salt lake of 
 Anava between Colossae and Apameia £. 
 
 M. Barbie - du Bocage, in his notes to the French 
 
 * Const. Porphyrog. de Them. 1. 1. th. 3. The bishops of 
 Chonae subscribed to the second Nicene Council in 787, one 
 hundred and fifty years before Porphyrogennetus. 
 
 t Herodot. 1. 7. c. 30. 
 
 X Herodot. ibid. Strabo, p. 570. 
 
Ch. 0. 
 
 *ii>.) 
 
 translation of Chandler's Travels, has justly re- 
 marked that Chandler very improperly hlames Po- 
 cocke for having misunderstood the geography of 
 this part of the country. It was Chandler himself 
 who erred, in mistaking the river Caprus for the 
 Lycus, and the Lycus for the Mseander. But al- 
 though Pococke was right, he did no more than 
 follow Smith, who clearly saw that the river which 
 he crossed between Kosh-Yenije and Tabiik-Kalesi 
 is the Mseander; that the stream between Tabiik- 
 Kalesi and Eski -hissar (Laodiceia) is the Lycus ; 
 and that the small rivers which meet at the site of 
 Laodiceia are the Caprus and the Asopus. 
 
 The valleys of four parallel rivers with the in- 
 terjacent ridges of mountains, form the leading 
 features of that beautiful and fertile country in the 
 middle part of the western extremity of Asia Mi- 
 nor, which comprehended the ancient provinces of 
 Ionia, Lydia, and Mysia. 
 
 The Mseander and Hermus, which (in proceed- 
 ing from south to north) are the first and third of 
 those rivers, are nearly equal as well in magnitude as 
 in the length of their course, which is between two 
 and three hundred miles. The fourth or northern- 
 most river, the Caicus, although not so celebrated 
 as the Cavstrus, which is the second in the above- 
 
256 
 
 Ch. G. 
 
 mentioned order, is much more considerable in size. 
 Deriving its origin from the same mass of Olym- 
 pene mountains which give rise to the Hermus and 
 the Ilhyndacus, it is formed of two large branches, 
 either of which is as long in its course as the Cay- 
 strus. But the latter, although little more than 
 70 miles in length, collects all the waters from the 
 adjacent slopes of the great mountains Tmolus 
 and Messogis ; and thus becomes a stream of con- 
 siderable magnitude at Ephesus, where it joins 
 the sea. 
 
 There is very little certainty as to the names and 
 positions of the ancient cities which occupied the 
 valley of the Caystrus. The evidences of ancient 
 history are so scanty with regard to them, that it 
 is only from the discovery of their ruins, and of 
 ancient inscriptions, that we can hope to ascertain 
 either their situations or their names. 
 
 The remains of antiquity at Bereki, on the south- 
 ern side of Tmolus, seem from Strabo and Ovid 
 to have belonged to Hypaepa * ; and it is not im- 
 probable that, in the fertile and delightful region 
 
 * riget arduus alto 
 
 Tmolus in adscensu : clivoque extentus utroque 
 Sardibus nine, iilinc parvis finitur Hypaepis. 
 
 Ovid. Metam. 1. 11. v. 150. 
 
 fitaiKa Sa iroXts s<tt) Kara.~a.ivou a- 1\> diro rou Tu.wXov TtpQf 
 to ro'j Kaycprcsu ireblov. Strabo, p. 627. 
 
Ch. G. 
 
 25; 
 
 on the summit of the mountain between Ber^ki 
 and Sart (Sardes), a part of which is occupied bv 
 a large lake, there might be found some remains 
 of the city Tmolus ; which, together with many of 
 the surrounding places, was destroyed by an earth- 
 quake in the fifth year of the reign of Tiberius *. 
 
 From the many remains of antiquity at Tyre, it 
 appears that this large and advantageously-situated 
 modern town is the successor of the chief Grecian 
 city of that part of the country. It is known from 
 Strabo and Pliny f, that the valley of the Caystrus 
 was divided into that of Ephesus towards the sea ; 
 the plain properly called Caystrian; and the Cil- 
 bian plain : above the last were the Cilbian moun- 
 tains, in which the Caystrus had its sources. We 
 find that the Caystriani, the lower Cilbiani, and the 
 upper Cilbiani, coined each their own money, with 
 the name of the people inscribed J; and they had 
 undoubtedly each a chief town in which the coinage 
 took place. As Tyre stands in the central part of 
 the Caystrian valley, it probably occupies the site of 
 the city of the Caystriani : whether this place had any 
 
 * Tacit. Ann. 1. 2. c. 47. Euseb. Chron. 
 
 t Strabo, p. 440, 620, 629. Plin. Hist. Nat. 1. 5. c. 29. 
 
 X See Eckhel Doct. Num. Vet. vol. 3. p. 96 ; where several 
 coins are described, with the legends KATSTPIANHN, KIA- 
 BIANftN TON KATft and KIABIANflN TX1N ANIi. But 
 it seems that not only the upper and lower Cilbiani, but that 
 settlers also in their country, from Nicaea and Pergamum, had 
 their separate coinage. Eckhel. ibid. 
 
258 Ch. 6. 
 
 other name cannot be discovered in ancient history. 
 Larissa Ephesia, which possessed a temple of Apollo 
 Larissenus, and was supposed to have been anciently 
 a city of much greater importance than it was in 
 the time of Strabo, stood in another part of the 
 Caystrian plain, 180 stades from Ephesus, towards 
 Mount Tmolus*. There was another Larissa, 30 
 stades distant from Tralles, on the road leading 
 from thence across the Messogis into the plain of 
 Caystrus, from whence the worship of Jupiter La- 
 rissius at Tralles had its origin f. 
 
 Although the remains of Ephesus are still very 
 considerable and of easy access, they have hardly 
 yet been sufficiently explored, or at least they have 
 not yet been described to the public with the accu- 
 racy and detail which they merit. The temple of 
 Diana Ephesia, the largest and most celebrated of 
 the Asiatic Greek buildings, is the only one of the 
 great examples of the Ionic order, of which we do 
 not now possess particulars more or less satisfac- 
 tory. The temples at Samus, Branchidse, Priene, 
 Magnesia, and Sardes, have been measured and 
 drawn by experienced architects; — but not a stone 
 has yet been discovered that can with certainty be 
 ascribed to the Ephesian temple, although very 
 little doubt remains as to its exact situation ^. 
 
 * Strabo, p. 620. t Strabo, p. 440. 
 
 \ The total disappearance of such a vast edifice as the tem- 
 ple of Diana Ephesia is to be ascribed to two causes, both arising 
 
Ch. 6. 
 
 •259 
 
 There has been some difference of opinion with 
 regard to the ancient maritime sites between 
 
 from its situation. Its position near the sea has facilitated 
 the removal of its materials for the use of new buildings during 
 the long period of Grecian barbarism ; while that gradual 
 rising of the soil of the valley, which has not only obstructed 
 the port near the temple, but has created a plain of three miles 
 between it and the sea, has buried all the remains of the temple 
 that may have escaped removal. Enough of these however, it 
 is probable, still exists beneath the soil to enable the architect to 
 obtain a perfect knowledge of every part of the construction. 
 
 It is remarkable that all the greatest and most costly of the 
 temples of Asia, except one, are built on low and marshy spots : 
 those cf Samus, Ephesus, Magnesia, and Sardes, are all so 
 situated. It might be supposed that the Greek architects, hav- 
 ing to guard against earthquakes, as against the most cruel 
 enemy of their art, and having ample experience in all the con- 
 comitant circumstances of these dreadful convulsions, which are 
 the peculiar scourge of all the finest parts of Asia Minor, were 
 of opinion that a marshy situation offered some security against 
 their effects. But the custom seems rather to be connected with 
 the character of the Ionic order, which is itself associated with 
 that of the Asiatic Greeks. While the massy and majestic Doric 
 was best displayed on a lofty rock, the greater proportional height 
 of the elegant Ionic required a level, surrounded with hills. So 
 sensible were the Greeks of this general principle, that the co- 
 lumns of the Doric temple of Nemea, which is situated in a nar- 
 row plain, have proportions not less slender than some examples 
 of the Ionic order. In fact, it was situation that determined the 
 Greeks in all the varieties of their architecture ; and, so far 
 from being the slaves of rule, there are no two examples of the 
 Doric, much less of the Ionic, that exactly resemble, either in 
 proportion, construction, or ornament. It must be admitted, 
 however, that the colonies of Italy and Sicily appear to have been 
 less refined in taste ; and, like all colonies, to have adhered to 
 ancient models longer than the mother-country. 
 
 s 2 
 
260 
 
 Ch. 0. 
 
 Ephesus and Cape Trogilium, which was the ex- 
 treme point of Mount Mycale. Strabo* describes 
 this coast in the following terms : " Beyond the 
 strait formed by Samus and Mycale, in sailing 
 towards Ephesus, a part of the coast on the right 
 hand belongs to the Ephesii and a part to the 
 Samii; — the first place is Panionium, situated three 
 stades above the sea. Here is held the common 
 festival of the Ionians, who sacrifice to Neptune 
 Heliconius ; the priesthood belongs to the people of 
 Priene. Next occurs Neapolis, which the Ephesii 
 exchanged with the Samii for Marathesium, the 
 latter being nearer to them; then Pygela, a small 
 city; then the port Panormus, and the temple of 
 Diana Ephesia." 
 
 The uninhabitable aspect of the rocks and fo- 
 rests of Mycale from Cape Trogilium to the mo- 
 dern Tshangli, is such as make it impossible to fix 
 upon any spot, either on the face or at the foot of 
 that mountain, at which Panionium can well be 
 supposed to have stood. Tshangli, on the other 
 hand, situated in a delightful and well watered val- 
 ley between two projecting points of the moun- 
 tain, was admirably suited to the Panionian festi- 
 val : and here Sir William Gell found, in a church 
 on the sea-shore, an inscription in which he di- 
 stinguished the name of Panionium twice. I con- 
 
 * Strabo, p. 639- 
 
Ch. 6. 
 
 261 
 
 ceive, therefore, that there can be little doubt of 
 Tshangli being on the site of Panionium. 
 
 Several travellers in passing from Ephesus to 
 Skalanova have remarked the ruins of a small town 
 near the sea, at about one-third of the distance 
 from the former place to the latter. These are 
 probably the remains of Pygela ; though I am not 
 aware how far the neighbouring coast will answer 
 to Livy's description of Pygela as a harbour *. 
 Between this spot and Tshangli there are only 
 two places which we can suppose to have been an- 
 ciently occupied by towns : one is Skalanova ; the 
 other is half-way between Skalanova and Tshangli; 
 where, in a valley watered by a stream, is a source 
 of hot water, near the ruins of a fortress, which, 
 although it appears to have been a work of the 
 Lower Greek Empire, contains some remains of 
 an earlier age. This latter I take to be the site of 
 Neapolis, which the Ephesii built, and afterwards 
 exchanged with the Samii ; and Skalanova stands 
 probably on the ancient Marathesium. 
 
 The survey by Captain Beaufort of the coast be- 
 tween Skalanova and the canal of Khio, illustrates 
 ancient history in the most satisfactory manner. 
 There still exist on this coast some remains of two 
 celebrated buildings — the Ionic temple of Bacchus 
 at Teos, and the temple of Jupiter Clarius at No- 
 
 * Liv.l. 37. c. 11. 
 
262 
 
 Ch. 0. 
 
 tium, the port of Colophon *. The chief written 
 evidence is supplied by Livy and Strabo ; and upon 
 this the map will be found a sufficient commen- 
 tary. 
 
 Although the ancient names to the westward of 
 Teos are not so certainly fixed as those to the east- 
 ward of that place, one can hardly doubt that the 
 harbour of Sykia, on the west side of Cape Corycus, 
 now Koraka, was the port called Corycus; for Livy 
 describes Corycus both as a promontory of the Teii 
 and as a harbour. In the war between Antiochus 
 and the Romans, in the year b. c. 193f, Polyxeni- 
 das, commander of the fleet of Antiochus, hearing 
 that the Roman fleet was approaching from Delus, 
 and being desirous of coming to an engagement 
 with them before they should be joined bv Eu- 
 menes and the Rhodii, sailed from Phocsea with a 
 hundred vessels of a small class, of which seventy 
 were covered. Having passed through the channel 
 of Chius, he anchored in Cyssus, a port of the Ery- 
 thrasi. The Romans sailed from Delus to Phanse 
 in Chius, and from thence, after taking in provi- 
 sion at the city of Chius, they proceeded to Phocsea; 
 
 * Colophon stood at a distance of two miles from the shore. 
 Liv. 1. 37. c. 26. The temple of Clarus has not yet been suf- 
 ficiently examined, although, according to Captain Beaufort, its 
 remains are not inconsiderable ; and, what is curious in this 
 part of the country, it was of the Doric order. For Teos, see 
 Antiquities of Ionia, part I.e. 1. 
 
 t Liv. 1. 36. c. 43. 
 
Ch. 6. 
 
 263 
 
 where they were joined by Eumenes from Elsea, the 
 port of Pergatnum, with twenty-four covered, and 
 many open vessels. The combined fleet, amount- 
 ing to 200 ships, (a fourth of which were unco- 
 vered,) then sailed along the shore, with the view 
 of passing into port Corycus, which was beyond 
 Cyssus. Polyxenidas, when he saw the enemy ap- 
 proach, advanced against them, and was defeated. 
 Cyssus, from this transaction, seems to have been 
 the harbour now called Latzata, the largest on this 
 part of the coast; and it is probably the same which 
 Strabo calls Casystes *. Tshisme, noted for more 
 than one Turkish disaster, seems to be the port 
 Phoenicus of the Erythrsei, in which the Romans 
 anchored after the action, on their way to the city 
 of Chius. The remains of Erythrse are found con- 
 siderably to the northward of Tshisme, in a port 
 sheltered by the islands, anciently called Hippif . 
 
 As Strabo j; states the entrance into the canal 
 of Chius on this side, between Cape Argennum 
 of the main land and Cape Poseidium of Chius, to 
 have been sixty stades in breadth, these two capes 
 could be no others than the promontories marked 
 with those names in the map ; the real distance 
 agreeing exactly with the ancient number. 
 
 The next place to Poseidium, in coasting the 
 
 * Strabo, p. 644. 
 J Strabo. ubi sup. 
 
 t Chandler, Asia Minor, c. 25. 
 
264 
 
 Ch. 6. 
 
 island with the shore on the right hand, was Pha- 
 nae # , which is described by Livy as a harbour 
 turned toward the JEgcan (portum Chiorum in 
 iEgeum mare versum), and in another place as a 
 promontory (promontorium Chiorum). We have 
 already seen that it was the place at which the Ro- 
 man fleet touched in proceeding from the isle of 
 Delus to the Pergamenian coast ; on another occa- 
 sion they assembled at Phanse, previously to their 
 sailing to the same island f: it seems therefore to 
 have been in the bay on the western side of the 
 southernmost cape of Chius. 
 
 The other ancient names of this island have been 
 placed on the map, as well as the information af- 
 forded by the ancient authors * compared with the 
 blind accounts of the modern travellers Pococke 
 and Heyman would admit. 
 
 The rivers Hermus and Caicus, each of which is 
 formed by the union of two branches meeting at 
 thirty or forty miles above the mouth, water two 
 extensive valleys equal in natural advantages to 
 
 * Strabo, p. 645. t Liv. 1. 36. c. 43.— 1. 44. c. 28. 
 
 + Particularly Herodot. in vita Horn. Thucyd. 1. 8. c. 24. 
 Strabo, ubi sup. There is a manifest error in regard to the 
 breadth of the island in our copies of Strabo, which assign 60 
 stades for the interval between Elaeus on the western side, and 
 the city Chius on the eastern : — the narrowest part of the island 
 cannot be less than double that distance. 
 
Ch. 6. 
 
 265 
 
 those of the Mseander and Caystrus, and not ex- 
 ceeded in beauty and fertility by any in the world. 
 Sardes was the chief city of the valley of the Her- 
 mus, and Pergamum in that of the Caicus. Both 
 have retained the ancient name a little corrupted 
 by the Turks : but while Pergamum continues to 
 be the capital of the surrounding country, Sardes 
 has yielded to Magnesia of Mount Sipylus, and has 
 dwindled to a small village. This village however 
 and its vicinity have to boast of two of the most 
 interesting remains of antiquity in Asia; the colossal 
 tumulus of Alyattes near the lake Gygsea*, and the 
 vast Ionic temple of Cybebef or the Earth, on the 
 bank of the Pactolus J. Here is also a theatre con- 
 nected with a stadium, and the ruins of a large 
 church, perhaps the only one of the Seven Churches 
 
 * Herodot. 1. 1 . c. 93. 
 
 t Herodot. 1. 5. c. 102.— Strabo, Chrest. 1. 10. 
 
 | 'Ops<rrepa iray,^wrt T£ 
 Mdrsp auTou Aib$ 
 "A rov (Msyav Ua,xrw\ov wy^ovaov vi^sig. 
 
 Sophocl. Philoct. v. 395. 
 
 From a drawing of the temple by Peyssonel in 1 750, it ap- 
 pears there were then standing three columns with their archi- 
 traves, a part of the cella, and three detached columns. Mr. 
 Cockerell found there in 1812 only three columns standing 
 with their capitals ; but enough remained of the ruins to satisfy 
 him that it was of the kind called by Vitruvius Octastylus Di- 
 pterus — that the exterior columns of the peristyle were about 
 7 feet in diameter at the base, and that the peristyle was up- 
 wards of 260 feet in length. 
 
266 
 
 Ch. 6. 
 
 of Asia of which there are any distinguishable re- 
 mains. 
 
 Pergamum retained under the Romans that su- 
 periority over all the cities of Asia which it had 
 acquired under the successors of Philetaerus : and 
 it still preserves many vestiges of its ancient mag- 
 nificence. Remains of the Asclepium and of some 
 other temples ; of the theatre, stadium, amphithea- 
 tre, and several other buildings, are still to be seen *i 
 
 There is a confusion of names in regard to the 
 two branches of the Hermus, similar to that which 
 I have already had occasion to notice in the in- 
 stances of the Sangarius and Masander. It seems 
 clear from Homer| and from StraboJ, that the 
 branch of the Hermus which waters the plain of 
 Ak-hissar, and which joins the main stream not far 
 from Magnesia, is the ancient Hyllus, which in the 
 time of Strabo was called Phrygius; for we find no 
 mention in ancient history of any other tributary 
 stream of the Hermus, with the exception of the 
 Cogamus near Philadelphia, that of Sardes the 
 famed Pactolus, and a third the Cryus, obscurely 
 named by Pliny, and which was probably of no 
 
 * Choiseul Gouffier. Voyage Pittoresque de la Grece, tome 2. 
 c i3. 
 
 f ro( ri^svos itccrpmov Etrriv, 
 
 v TA\u> it l^Quosvrt, xa.)"Ep[/.uj Stvrjevri. II. T. 392. 
 
 . \ Strabo, p. 554. . . . 'Epjxov sis ov xa) o "XXKo; JjxPaAAe;, 
 Qpuyiog vvy xaXovpEvos. Strabo, p. 626. 
 
Ch. 6. 
 
 267 
 
 greater magnitude than the other two just men- 
 tioned. Nor in fact is there any stream of import- 
 ance joining the main river now called Kodus or 
 Ghedis, in the lower part of its course, except the 
 river of Ak-hissar. The course of the main stream, 
 moreover, agrees exactly with the description which 
 Strabo has given of the Hermus. " It rises," he 
 says, " in the sacred mountain Dindymene, flows 
 through the Catacecaumene into the district of Sar- 
 des, and from thence through the subjacent plains 
 into the sea*." 
 
 From Livy however, in his narrative of the trans- 
 actions which preceded the decisive victory gained 
 by the Romans over Antiochus at Magnesia, it seems 
 evident that Phrygius was the name by which the 
 southern or main branch of the Hermus was better 
 known to the Romans. Antiochus had collected 
 his forces at Thyateira, when his opponent the 
 Consul Lucius Cornelius Scipio crossed the Hel- 
 lespont, and moved in six days from Ilium to the 
 sources of the Caicus. Here he was joined by 
 Eumenes from Elaea; and from hence, on the sup- 
 position that the king was still near Thyateira, he 
 marched to meet him, and moved in five days into 
 the Hyrcanian plain. But Antiochus in the mean 
 
 * Pliny (Hist. Nat. 1. 5.c. 29.) says that the Hermus rises 
 near Dorylaeum of Phrygia ; which although not a very accurate 
 description, agrees at least with the distant origin of the Ko- 
 riiis in the mountains adjoining to Olympus. 
 
268 
 
 Ch. 6. 
 
 time had quited Thyateira, and after having crossed 
 the river Ph?ygius, had entrenched himself at 
 Magnesia. The Consul followed on the opposite 
 side of the river, until he arrived in the enemy's 
 presence. When the armies had remained in this 
 position, with the river between them, for two days, 
 the Romans crossed it and took up a position with 
 their left to the stream, consequently to the west- 
 ward of the position of Antiochus, which was pro- 
 bably done for the sake of securing a communication 
 with the fleet at Ekea, and a retreat in that direction 
 in case of necessity. After his defeat Antiochus 
 fled to Sardes and Apameia. 
 
 From these transactions it cannot well be doubted 
 that Livy applies the name of Phrygius to the 
 southern or main branch of the Hermus, in con- 
 tradiction to Strabo, who identifies it with the 
 northern. And in this the historian agrees with 
 Pliny*, who by distinguishing the Phryx from the 
 Hyllus, and by observing that the Phryx gave name 
 to Phrygia, and that it separated that province from 
 Caria, shews clearly that he applied the name Phryx 
 to the largest, and at the same time to the southern- 
 most branch. This instance serves, like that of the 
 
 * Hermus .... oritur juxta Dorilaium Phrygise civitatem 
 multosque colligit fluvios, inter quos Phrygem, qui nomine 
 genti dato a Caria earn disterminat, Hyllum ct Cryon et ipsos 
 Phrygire, Mysiae, Lydise amnibus repletos. Plin. Hist. Nat. 1.5. 
 c. 29. 
 
Ch. o\ 
 
 269 
 
 Sangarius, to prove how easily a confusion of names 
 occurs in regard to the branches of a river. 
 
 From the direction of Scipio's route from Troy 
 to the Hyrcanian plain, and from the proportion of 
 his marches, it may be inferred that the north- 
 eastern branch of the river of Bergma, which flows 
 by Menduria and Balikesri, is that which was an- 
 ciently called Caicus; — of the name of the southern 
 branch I have not found any trace in ancient history. 
 Strabo * informs us that the Caicus was joined 
 by the Mysius flowing from Temnum; and that 
 this mountain separated the valley of the Caicus 
 from the plain of Apia, which bordered on Thebe 
 and Adramyttium. Such is our ignorance of the 
 real structure of this part of the country, that it is 
 only from the ancient geographer that we have any 
 knowledge either of the mountain or the river. 
 
 Notwithstanding the facilities which were so long 
 given to the researches of travellers by the favourable 
 disposition of the ruling Turkish family of Kara- 
 Osman-Oglu, added to the influence of the Eu- 
 ropean factories at Smyrna, even the most accessi- 
 ble parts of the valleys of the Hermus and Caicus 
 and of their interjacent ridges are still very insuffi- 
 ciently explored. It seems strange to say, that of 
 a coast so near to Smyrna as that between the 
 mouths of the Hermus and Caicus, we possess no 
 delineation that can be relied on; and consequently 
 * Strabo, p. 616. 
 
270 
 
 Ch. 6. 
 
 no satisfactory information upon the very interesting 
 positions of Leucae, Phoceea, Cyme, iEgae, Neonti- 
 chus, Myrina, and Grynium ; the latter noted for a 
 magnificent temple of Apollo, of white marble*. 
 
 In short, with the exception of Temnus, which 
 appears from the Peutinger Table to have been at 
 Menimen; and of Nacrasa, which an inscription 
 mentioned by Chishullf shews to have been at 
 Bakir, — we have no accurate information on the 
 sites of any of the second-rate towns of this part of 
 Asia Minor — and all to the east and north of Phi- 
 ladelphia, Thyateira and Pergamum, as far as the 
 Thymbres, Mount Olympus, and the coast of the 
 Propontis, is little better than an unknown land, in 
 which there are very few ancient names that I have 
 been able to place with any degree of certainty. 
 
 The site of Cyzicus has been visited and imper- 
 fectly described by Pococke and Sestini, and Mileto- 
 polis appears from Chishull's description of the neigh- 
 bouring lake to have been at Minids J. And hence 
 we have two lines in the Table of which the extre- 
 mities are known — namely, that leading from Per- 
 gamum to Miletopolis, and that leading from Per- 
 
 * Strabo, p. 622. f Antiq. Asiat. p. 146. 
 
 X This place was visited by Chishull in the year 1702, in his 
 way from Smyrna to Adrianople ; when leaving the main road 
 from Smyrna to Brusa to the right at Susugerli, he proceeded 
 from thence to the Hellespont which he crossed at Gallipoli. It 
 is from his route alone that I obtain any clear knowledge of the 
 situation and course of the iEsepus and Granicus. 
 
Ch. 6. 
 
 27 \ 
 
 gamum to Cyzicus. On the former was Hadriano- 
 therse *, for such undoubtedly is the correction that 
 should be made of the corrupted name in the Table, 
 though the distance there assigned to it of 8 M.P. 
 from Pergamum cannot be implicitly relied on, as 
 the 41 M.P. which forms the whole interval be- 
 tween Pergamum and Miletopolis is not half the 
 reality. On the road from Pergamum to Cyzicus 
 we find two names in the Table, which do not 
 occur elsewhere in ancient history — Phemeneo — 
 Argesis. The distance of Phemenium from Cy- 
 zicus is omitted in the Table: but if the other two 
 distances on this line are correct, the mines of Er- 
 gasteria mentioned by Galen were between Pheme- 
 nium and Argesse f. 
 
 The name of Kesri or Balikesri seems to be a 
 corruption of Csesareia £. It is the chief town of 
 the Turkish district of Karasi, and is situated on 
 the Caicus, near the great road from Smyrna to 
 Constantinople: it is probably the site of one of 
 
 * This Hadrianotherae was a place of sufficient importance 
 to coin its own money. Eckhel Doct. Num. Vet. Bithynia. 
 
 f Ergasteria was at 440 stades from Pergamum on the road 
 to Cyzicus. Galen, in proceeding to Ergasteria from Perga- 
 mum, remarked a great quantity of metallic substance, which 
 he calls molybdaena. Galen, de Medicam. Simp. 1. 9. c. 22. 
 
 \ Bala, or Bali, from the Greek UaXaioL, is not unfrequently 
 prefixed to Turkish corruptions of ancient Greek names. Abu- 
 bekr Ben Behrem mentions a Baliamboli (UaXcuoLv itoXiv) in 
 the district of Aidin, and a Balia in that of Karasi. Patrae in 
 the Peloponnesus is called by the Turks Balabatra. 
 
272 
 
 Cli. 6. 
 
 the numerous places which under the Romans 
 changed their more ancient name to Cassareia. 
 
 In some part of Mount Olympus, to the west- 
 ward of Brusa, we find mention made by the Turk- 
 ish geographer Abubekr, of a town called Edrenus. 
 There can be little doubt that this is the ancient 
 Hadriani ad Olympum or in Olympo, of which 
 coins inscribed with this local distinction are still 
 in existence*. Edrenus is no other than ' ' Atyocvovs, 
 a slight corruption of Hadriani in the usual modern 
 Greek form of the accusative, like Kodus for Cadi. 
 
 The geography of the western side of the Idaean 
 range, which slopes to the iEgean sea and the Hel- 
 lespont, is in a very different state from that of the 
 country to the eastward of that mountain. The 
 natural beauties of the Troas, its accessibility by 
 sea, but above all its celebrity as the scene of the 
 Ilias, have attracted a greater number of travellers 
 to it, than to any other part of Asia Minor f. 
 
 * Eckhel Bithynia. — Sestini, Lett. t. 2. p. 103. 
 
 t It is to M. de Choiseul Gouffier, and to those who assisted 
 him, that we are indebted for the best map of this interesting 
 region, though much still remains to be done in the details of its 
 topography, in IS 1 9 Choiseuls map received some corrections 
 and additions from M. Barbie du Bocage, founded upon the ob- 
 servations of M. Dubois, who had been sent to the Troas in the 
 preceding year by M. de Choiseul. See Voyage Pittoresque de 
 la Grece, torn. 2. pi. 19. 
 
Ch. G. 
 
 273 
 
 The most remarkable places in the Troas were 
 Assus, Lectum, Hamaxitus, Larissa, Colonae, Alex- 
 andria, Cebrene, Neandria,Cenchreas, Scamandria, 
 Sigeium, and New Ilium. . 
 
 The two most important, and to which the 
 greater part of the population of the others was 
 drawn as early as the time of the successors of 
 Alexander, were Alexandria and New Ilium; and 
 these continued to be the chief towns under the 
 Roman emperors. Alexandria has preserved con- 
 siderable remains to this day. Of New Ilium only 
 the foundations of the walls with a few other 
 fragments are to be seen. 
 
 As Hamaxitus, Larissa, and Colonae, were from 
 their proximity to Alexandria absorbed by that city 
 at the time of its foundation # , we are not surprised 
 that no remains of them have been remarked by 
 travellers. Some circumstances, however, men- 
 tioned by Strabo f, are sufficient very nearly to fix 
 their positions. Hamaxitus in particular is deter- 
 mined by the salt-works of Tragasa?, which are still 
 in a state of operation on the sea-coast near the 
 mouth of the river of Tuzla. This river (perhaps 
 the ancient Satnioeis) does not, however, take its 
 name, which means salt, from the maritime salt- 
 works alone : there are other salt-works at some 
 very copious sources of hot salt water, at a consi- 
 
 m 
 
 M 
 
 * Strabo, p. G04. f Id. pp. 440, 473, 604, G12, G20. 
 
•274 
 
 Ch. 6. 
 
 derable distance from the sea, on the northern 
 side of the valley, where is a village called Tuzla, 
 and where the neighbouring hills are composed 
 of rock salt. This curious fact accounts for the 
 name Halesium, anciently applied to the di- 
 strict *. 
 
 As it appears from Strabo that Cebrenia bor- 
 dered on the territories of Antandrus, Hamaxitus, 
 Neandria, New Ilium, and Scepsis f, and that the 
 Scepsia was on the iEsepus^, consequently on the 
 eastern side of the summit of Ida, — Cebrenia seems 
 to have occupied the higher region of Ida on the 
 western side, and its city very probably stood at 
 Kushunhi Tepe, not far from Bairamitsh, where 
 Dr. E. D. Clarke, proceeding from the latter place 
 towards the sources of the Mendere and the sum- 
 mit of Ida, found very considerable remains of an- 
 tiquity. The fine valley which extends from thence 
 to the modern town of Ene, seems to answer in its 
 upper part to the level country of Cebrenia, men- 
 tioned by Strabo § ; and in its lower or western 
 to the plain called Samonium, which belonged to 
 Neandria || : for Neandria being described by the 
 geographer as inland from Hamaxitus towards New 
 Ilium, and as 130 stades distant from the latter^f, 
 corresponds exactly in position with Ene. 
 
 * Strabo, p. 605. 
 J Id. pp. 552, 603. 
 II Id. p. 472. 
 
 + Id. pp. 596, 606. 
 § Id. p.59G. 
 f Id. p. 606. 
 
Ch. 6. 
 
 275 
 
 In the plain of Troy, or region watered by the 
 lower course of the Mendere and its branches, the 
 only positions proved to be ancient sites, by remains 
 of buildings existing in their original places, are — 
 
 1. That of New Ilium on a hill which rises to 
 the eastward of the villages of Kum-Khii and Ka- 
 lafatli, about 5 miles to the S. E. of Kum-Kale 
 or the lower castle of the Dardanells, and three 
 miles from the nearest shore. The vestiges of the 
 walls of the citadel are to be traced on the summit 
 of the height ; and some of the buildings of the 
 town, on the western slope and at the foot of the 
 hill: but very little now remains in its place, the 
 site being resorted to (as it probably has been ever 
 since its abandonment), as to a stone-quarry, for 
 the materials of modern constructions — whence we 
 find all the villages, farms, and particularly the 
 Turkish cemeteries of the surrounding country, full 
 of the inscribed or decorated marbles of New Ilium. 
 2. Paleo Aktshi Kiiii. This, by its direction and di- 
 stance from New Ilium, corresponds exactly with the 
 'IXteatv pcapq, or village of the Ilienses, described by 
 Strabo * as being 30 stades eastward of New Ilium 
 towards Ida and Dardania. 3. Paleo-Kastro, near 
 the Turkish village of It-ghelmes, on a height over- 
 looking the Bosphorus. This is probably the site of 
 the town Rhceteium, on a part of the sea-shore of 
 
 • Strabo, pp. .093, 597. 
 T 2 
 
276 
 
 Ch. 6. 
 
 which was the iEanteium or tomb of Ajax *, still 
 existing. 4. Yenishehr, the ancient Sigeium. 
 5. Another Paleo-Kastro, near the mouth of the 
 small river which receives the canal derived from 
 the river of Bunarbashi. This has been supposed, 
 with great probability, to have been a small town 
 and port called Agameiaf. 6. The hill which 
 rises above the less or lower Bunarbashi to the 
 S. E., and which is bounded in the same direction 
 by the deep valley of the Mendere. This, it is not 
 improbable, was the site of Scamandria; for it may 
 be presumed that Scamandria being named by Pliny 
 together with New Ilium J, was in some part of the 
 lower plain of the Scamander, near that river; and 
 there is no site on the Mendere so remarkable as 
 that of Bunarbashi. Pliny describes Scamandria 
 as a small town : but it seems from an extant in- 
 scription to have been of sufficient importance to 
 make a recorded treaty with New Ilium concerning 
 the sale of corn . 
 
 The same heights are by many persons supposed 
 
 * Strabo, p. 59a. 
 
 t Stephan. in 'Ayd^sicc. Hesych. etPhavorin. in'Ayafu'aj 
 ct "Aya^o;. Choiseul Gouffier, Voyage Pitt, dc la Grece, 
 torn. 2. p. 331. 
 
 X Est tamen et nunc Scamandria civitas parva, ac M. D. 
 passus rcmotum a portu Ilium immune. Plin. Hist. Nat. 1. ;>. 
 c. 30. 
 
 § This inscription is now in the Royal Museum of Paris. 
 Choiseul Goufficr, torn. 2. p. 288. 
 
Ch. 6. 
 
 277 
 
 to have been in an earlier age the position of the 
 renowned capital of Ilus and his successors : indeed, 
 so many of the most intelligent travellers * in the 
 Troas are agreed in placing the Homeric Ilium at 
 Bumirbashi, that I should have been satisfied on 
 the present occasion with stating my concurrence 
 with their opinion, and with referring to the ar- 
 guments of such of them as have supported it by 
 their publications, had not some adverse systems 
 been recently maintained with great learning and 
 ingenuity; though chiefly, it must be admitted, by 
 those who have considered the question in the closet 
 only. I shall here offer, therefore, a few observa- 
 tions on this subject; first stating what appear to 
 me to be the strongest grounds for thinking that 
 Bunarbashi was the site of Troy, and then the 
 principal objections that have been made to that 
 opinion, together with the arguments which occur 
 in reply to them f. 
 
 As even the identity of the country on the Asiatic 
 side of the entrance of the Hellespontine strait 
 
 * I may particularly mention Choiseul Gouffier, Leehevalier, 
 Morritt, Hawkins, Gell, Hamilton, and Foster. 
 
 t To those who may consider it idle to inquire for a site 
 which was unknown 2,000 years ago, it may not be improper 
 to offer the remark, that not one of the ancient authors who 
 have written on the Troas, with the exception of Homer, was 
 so well acquainted with the locality as modern travellers are; 
 and that not one possessed any delineation of its topography ap- 
 proaching to the accuracy of that with which we are furnished 
 and not vet. satisfied. 
 
278 
 
 Ch.6. 
 
 with the scene of the Ilias has been doubted, it 
 may not be useless to premise, that if the war of 
 Troy was a real event, having reference to a real to- 
 pography (and to doubt it would shake the whole 
 fabric of profane history), no district has yet been 
 shown that will combine even a few of the requisite 
 features of the plain of Troy, except that between 
 Kum-Kald and Bunarbashi: whereas in that district, 
 and in the surrounding country by land and by 
 water, we find the seas and mountains and islands 
 in the positions which the poet indicates, and many 
 of them with the same or nearly the same names. 
 The features which do not accord so well with his 
 description are those which are the most liable to 
 change in the lapse of ages, — the course and size of 
 the rivers, and the extent and direction of the low 
 coast where these waters join the sea. Instead of a 
 river with two large branches, which Homer seems 
 to describe, we find on one side of the plain a broad 
 torrent, reduced in the dry season to a slender brook, 
 and a few stagnant pools ; and on the other side a 
 small perennial stream, which instead of joining the 
 former is diverted into an artificial channel, and is 
 thus carried to a different part of the coast. But the 
 diminutive size of some of the most celebrated rivers 
 of antiquity is well known to those who have tra- 
 velled in Greece ; and it must be considered that a 
 poet writing of a real scene is obliged to magnify 
 those features, which without exaggeration would 
 
Ch. 6. 
 
 279 
 
 be beneath the dignity of his verse. In regard to 
 the course of the streams, it seems sufficient still 
 to find, at the end of three thousand years, two ri- 
 vers which, if they do not now unite, evidently did 
 so at a former period of time: and for the sources 
 of that stream which Homer describes as rising 
 under the walls of Troy, to find some very remark- 
 able springs, not very different in their peculiarities 
 from the poet's description, and rising at the foot of 
 a commanding height on the edge of the plain. 
 
 For poetry this coincidence appears sufficient: 
 and in regard to the position of Troy itself, it seems 
 enough to find a hill rising above the sources just 
 mentioned, not only agreeing in all particulars with 
 the kind of position which the Greeks * usually 
 chose for their towns, but the only situation in this 
 region which will combine all the requisites they 
 sought for; namely, a height overlooking a fertile 
 maritime plain, — situated at a sufficient distance 
 from the sea to be secure from the attacks of pirates, 
 and furnished with a copious and perennial sup- 
 ply of water, — presenting a very strong and healthy 
 position for the city; and for the citadel a hill be- 
 
 * It is almost unnecessary here to remark, that the ruling 
 family, and hence probably a large portion of the people of 
 Troy, were of Greek origin, and that they had adopted the 
 manners and language of Greece. The Dardanidse were Greeks 
 settled in Asia, as the Atridae were Phrygians settled in Europe. 
 For the history of Ilium the reader may conveniently consult 
 the work of Chandler, in 4to. 1802. 
 
280 
 
 Ch. 6. 
 
 yond the reach of bowshot from the neighbouring 
 heights, defended at the back by steep rocks and 
 precipices, surrounded by a deep valley and broad 
 torrent, and backed beyond the river by mountains 
 which supplied timber and fuel. That it was pre- 
 cisely such a situation as the inhabitants of Greece 
 and Asia in remote ages preferred, might be shown 
 by a great variety of examples: and it can hardly be 
 doubted that a person totally unacquainted with the 
 Ilias, but accustomed to observe the positions of an- 
 cient Greek towns, would fix on Bunarbashi for the 
 site of the chief place of the surrounding country. 
 It is a necessary consequence of placing Troy 
 on the heights to the S.E. of Bunarbashi, that the 
 river flowing from the sources which give that vil- 
 lage its name (meaning Spring-head), is the Sca- 
 mander of Homer : that the large torrent which 
 flows through a deep ravine on the eastern side of 
 the heights, is the Simoeis : and that notwithstand- 
 ing the much greater magnitude of the bed of the 
 latter and occasionally of that stream itself, the united 
 river after the junction in the plain was called by 
 the name of the former, Scamander. In support 
 of this opinion, it has been justly observed by Le- 
 chevalier, that Homer's description, allowance being 
 made for poetical exaggeration, is correct, both as 
 to the springs themselves, and as to the very dif- 
 ferent character of the two rivers : nor can it be 
 denied that the two hills, that of Bunarbashi and 
 
Ch. f>. 
 
 281 
 
 the higher eminence behind it, correspond to the 
 mention by Homer of Ilium and its citadel Per- 
 gamus. The termination of the slope towards 
 the springs accords also with the idea which we 
 receive from the poet of the extent of the city on 
 that side, and of the position of the gate Scseae or 
 Dardaniae, which was near the sources of the Sca- 
 mander, and was the principal outlet towards the 
 plain*. But if these assumptions are not unreason- 
 able, it cannot be denied on the other hand that in 
 attempting to identify such objects as the tombs of 
 Ilus, Myrinna, and iEsyetes, Lechevalier has ex- 
 posed himself to reasonable objections from his op- 
 ponents, and has rather injured than strengthened 
 his cause. For it is not certain that all the monu- 
 ments mentioned by Homer were tumuli; and it is 
 very possible that if they were, several of them have 
 been obliterated by time. Nothing can be more 
 likely than that the real history of the monuments 
 should have been forgotten in the interval between 
 the destruction of Troy and the foundation of New 
 Ilium, and that names should have been ascribed 
 to them by the inhabitants of the latter place, suited 
 to their own system of Trojan topography, and fa- 
 vourable to the pretensions which they held, that 
 their city stood upon the ancient site. With regard 
 to the existing barrows, it seems incontrovertible 
 only that those which stand in conspicuous situa- 
 * Lechevalier,, Voyage de In Troade, tome 2. c. 5, 6. 
 
282 
 
 Ch. 6. 
 
 tions on either side of the mouth of the Scamander, 
 are the tumuli, supposed in the time of the Romans, 
 and prohably with reason, to have been the sepul- 
 chres of Ajax, Achilles, and some other chieftains; 
 and these monuments are so far important, as they 
 prove the identity of the plain of the Mendere with 
 the scene of the Ilias *. 
 
 It is objected to the springs of Bunarbashi, that 
 instead of being only two, — one hot and the other 
 cold, as described by Homer f, — they are in one place 
 so numerous as to have received from the Turks the 
 name of Kirk-Ghiuz, (the Forty Fountains), and 
 that they are all of the same temperature. 
 
 But viewing them as the springs of a river, they 
 may in poetical language, or even in common speech, 
 be considered as two, since they arise in two places, 
 distant from each other about 200 yards : in one 
 the water appears in a deep basin, which is noted 
 among the natives for being often covered with a 
 
 * A monument of the same kind is seen on the summit of 
 the hill above the lower European castle of the Dardanells, 
 and another at the upper European castle. The latter has 
 been clearly described as the Cynossema or tomb of Hecuba 
 (Strabo, p. 595) 3 the former as the monument of Protcsilaus, 
 near Elaeus. Herodot. 1. 1). c. 1 16. Philostr. Heroic, c. 2. 
 f Kpouvcu <5" Ixavov xotXtppow, Evba, Ss it^yoa 
 
 Aoia.) dvata-aoutri 'Lnapocv^pav Sivyjsvtos' 
 
 'H \Cev yap S' vSacri Xtapa) peel, dp®) Se xairvbs 
 
 Tlyvercu e% avrfjs ujtxe) itvgbs alQopevoto' 
 
 H 8' kreoYj Sepei Trpopeei elxvla, yaXaXt) 
 
 ' H ;£JoV< \pw%py, y e% vSaros xpu<rTciX\u>. 11, X. v. 147. 
 
Ch. 6. 
 
 283 
 
 thick vapour like smoke : in the other place, there 
 are numerous rills issuing from the rocks, into a 
 broad shallow piece of water, terminating in a 
 stream which is joined by that from the smoking 
 spring. As to the temperature of the water, the 
 observations of travellers give various results. Some 
 have observed a difference : according to others, it 
 would appear that being all deep-seated springs, their 
 temperature is the same at all seasons, or about 00° 
 of Fahrenheit at their eruption from the ground ; 
 consequently that they will feel cold when the air is 
 at 70° or 80°, and warm when it is at 40" or 50°*. 
 But even in this case it is obvious that there will 
 be a real difference between the heat of the shallow 
 recipient of the springs called the Forty Fountains, 
 and that of the single deep pool. It seems sufficient 
 to justify Homer's expression, that a difference of 
 temperature was believed, and that an occasional 
 appearance of vapour over one source was often ob- 
 served by the natives : for the poet would probably 
 
 * Major Rennell quotes several observations, all of which 
 make both the sources from 61° to 64° Fahr. Choiseul says 
 that on the 1 0th Feb. he found the atmosphere at 1 0° Reau- 
 mur, the hot source at 22°, the cold source at 8°. Dubois from 
 the 12th to 16th Jan. found the temperature of the single or 
 hot source from 2° to 5° Reaumur higher than the air j and 
 that of the Forty Fountains, from ^° to 1" below the heat of the 
 air. Although I was several days in the Troas, I could not 
 make any observations, from an accident which happened to 
 my thermometer. 
 
284 
 
 Ch. 6. 
 
 flatter the local prejudices, even if he had examined 
 the fountains so attentively as to be convinced that 
 the warmth of all the sources was the same. 
 
 Another and a more weighty objection to the 
 placing of Troy on the heights of Bunarbashi, is 
 that the much greater magnitude of the river, which 
 flows on the east side of those heights, concurs 
 with its modern name Mendere in showing it to 
 be the Scamander of Homer ; and that such was 
 evidently the opinion of several authors of antiquity, 
 particularly of Demetrius, a native of Scepsis in the 
 Troas, from whom Strabo principally derived his 
 information on the geography of this district. In 
 fact there can be no doubt, that in the time of 
 Demetrius, who wrote in the second century before 
 Christ *, the Mendere from its source in Mount 
 Kazdagh to its junction with the sea was called 
 Scamander. But was it so in the time of the Tro- 
 jan war ? In this inquiry we have nothing to do 
 with any authority but that of the Ilias itself : for 
 it is evident from the remarks of Demetrius and 
 Strabo, that the topography of the poem and the site 
 
 * Strabo, p. 594. Demetrius visited New Ilium about the 
 time that Antiochus the Great was defeated by the Romans — ■ 
 lie was then a boy. He describes the town of New Ilium as 
 being in a state of decline, and so poor that the houses were 
 not covered with earthen tiles — uicrrs pjog Kspapujrds sy&w r ^ 
 crtkyoLS : meaning probably that they were covered with what 
 are called in modern Greek thirds, generally made of schistose 
 limestone. 
 
Cli. 6. 
 
 281 
 
 of Troy were as much a subject of doubt and dispute 
 in their time as they are at present. Nor is this 
 surprising. The result of the Trojan war was the 
 subversion of Ilium and the extinction (with the 
 exception of a single branch of the royal family) of 
 the colony which had settled in this part of Phry- 
 gia*. Strabo repeatedly remarks that the revo- 
 lutions following the Trojan war were the great 
 cause of the difficulty which he experienced in ad- 
 justing the Homeric chorography. The barbarous 
 people of Thrace, called Treres, who then established 
 themselves in the Troas, could not have taken much 
 interest in any thing relating to the former co- 
 lony, to whose language they were strangers, and 
 whose history was recorded only in the songs of an 
 Ionian stranger. It was not till long afterwards that 
 the iEolian Greeks of Lesbus extended their settle- 
 ments into the Troas. It was not even by them that 
 New Ilium was founded, but by a Lydian, and con- 
 sequently a semibarbarous colony f, about the eighth 
 century before Christ; and it was not till a taste for 
 the poems of Homer having begun to prevail in 
 European Greece, and the Athenians having taken 
 
 * That Troy was totally ruined and abandoned as earl}- ;>.s 
 the time of the poet, is evident from his expressions in many 
 parts both of the Ilias and Odysseia. That it continued to be 
 an uninhabited place was the general opinion of all antiquity. 
 
 f Strabo, p. GUI. The Lydians are here called semibarba- 
 rous in the Greek sense — as using a language and writing not 
 Greek, and yet bearing a great resemblance to it. 
 
286 
 
 Ch. 6. 
 
 possession of Sigeium* an da part of theCliersonesus, 
 that their enlightened sovereigns Pisistratus and his 
 sonsf, if they were not the first to collect, arrange, 
 and edit the Ilias, — were at least the first to bring it 
 into notice among the most lettered of the Euro- 
 pean Greeks J. We cannot wonder that the Ho- 
 meric topography should at that time have become 
 subject to the same kind of uncertainty now found 
 to prevail in regard to such places as Athens, Rome, 
 Jerusalem, Alexandria of Egypt, and even many ci- 
 ties much more modern. 
 
 For the New Ilium founded by the Lydians, co- 
 lonized afterwards by the iEolians, and augmented 
 and first fortified with a circuit of forty stades by 
 Lysimachus §, a situation was chosen which, being 
 nearer to the sea than that of the ancient city, was 
 better adapted to the more advanced state of com- 
 merce and civilization []. It was very natural that 
 its inhabitants the Ilienses ^[ should pretend that 
 
 * Herodot. 1. 5. c. 94. Strabo, p. .099. 
 
 f The Pisistratida? lived at Sigeium after their exile from 
 Athens. Herodot. 1. 5. c. 65. 
 
 % iElian. Var. Hist. 1. 13. c. 14.— Pausan. Achaic. c. 26.— 
 Cicero de Orat. 1. 3. c. 34. — Epig. in Anthol. 1. 4. c. 4. 
 
 § Strabo, p. 593. 
 
 || Thucydides (1. 1. c. 7.) has remarked the effect of the 
 progress of Grecian society, in moving the settlements of the 
 Greeks nearer to the sea-coast. 
 
 H 'iKifig. This word is never used by Homer, who always 
 calls the people Trojans, Tpwsg . 
 
Ch. 6. 
 
 287 
 
 their town stood on the site of the ancient city*; 
 and no less so, that a historian of a neighbouring 
 and kindred race should flatter them by concurring 
 in their opinion f . That the conquerors of Asia 
 likewise, and so many other illustrious visitors of 
 Ilium from Xerxes to the Caesars, when they found 
 it useful to their purposes or grateful to their va- 
 nity to sacrifice to Minerva Ilias, should have will- 
 ingly followed the guidance of the priests to the 
 temple in New Ilium, and should have admitted 
 without inquiry that it stood on the site of the Per- 
 gamus of Priam — is nothing more than we should 
 expect under such circumstances. But we know 
 that the claim of the Ilienses was strongly contested 
 duringthe whole period in which their city flourished. 
 Demetrius of Scepsis and Hestisea of Alexandria 
 Troas opposed it about the time of the Antio- 
 chian war, and Strabo subscribed to their opinion 
 in the Augustan age J. 
 
 Although Demetrius found it impossible to 
 assent to the claim of the Ilienses in this respect, 
 and seems to have been far from implicitly believ- 
 ing in the identity of all the Homeric places pointed 
 out by them §; he appears never to have suspected 
 
 * Strabo, pp. 593, GOO. 
 
 f Hellanicus oi' Lesbus. 'EXXd.viY.os yjzp^oy.zvos to7g 'iXltu- 
 <riv, &c. Strabo, p. 602. | Strabo, p. 599. 
 
 § He says that the greater part of the actions described by 
 the poet were fought in the Scamandrian plain (or Trojan pro- 
 perly so called) : and there, he adds, the Ilienses point out 
 the Erineus, the tomb of iEsyetes, Batieia, and the tomb of 
 
288 
 
 Ch. (>. 
 
 that the Scamander was any other than the large 
 torrent, to which he found that name then applied 
 from its mouth in the Hellespont to its distant source 
 in the summit of Ida called Cotylus # . It was a 
 necessary consequence (as all those who have con- 
 curred in the same belief have experienced) to iden- 
 tify the Simoeis with one of the branches of the 
 Mendere flowing from the eastward. The Ghium- 
 brek-su, the most important of the Trojan streams 
 after the Mendere and Bumirbashi river, seems to 
 have been that which Strabo (probably following 
 Demetrius f ) supposed to be the Simoeis, as may 
 be inferred from his observation that the site of 
 Troy, which he places at the Pagus Iliensium (Paleo 
 
 Ilus — favg ovo[ia.tyi/,Evovs foitovg evfavQa $eix.yv[j,ivov$ 6po5[t,ev, 
 rov 'Eg i'/eqv &c. Demetr. ap. Strab. p. 597. 
 
 * Strabo, p. 002. A passage in the 12th book of the Ilias 
 (v. 20.) has been adduced in favour of the opinion that the 
 Mendere was the Scamander of Homer ; because the description 
 there given of the origin of the Scamander in Mount Ida, will 
 better apply to the Mendere than to the Bunarbashi stream, 
 which rises on the edge of the plain. But the same passage 
 makes the Granicus and iEsepus concur with the Scamander 
 and Simoeis in the destruction of the Grecian rampart, though 
 they flow in an opposite direction and fall into the Propontis, — 
 an absurdity which must destroy the geographical authority of 
 the passage, if indeed it be not spurious. 
 
 f It is not easy to distinguish the opinions and observations 
 of Strabo from those which he has copied from Demetrius. In 
 general, however, it may be supposed that Strabo had seen little 
 of the Troas himself, and that he therefore followed Demetrius, 
 as a native and a copious writer on the subject. But there 
 is reason to think that even Demetrius saw little of the Troas 
 after his early youth. 
 
Ch. 0. 
 
 289 
 
 Aktshi), was near the river Thymbfius; and that the 
 temple of Apollo Thymbrseus at the junction of this 
 river with the Scamander, was 50 stades from New 
 Ilium * ; for these data concur in showing that the 
 Kamara-su f was the Thymbrius, and consequently 
 that the Ghiumbrek-su was the Simoeis of the geo- 
 grapher. 
 
 But although a site had been found for Troy 
 at Pagus by those who did not subscribe to the 
 claims of the Ilienses in favour of their own site, 
 neither Demetrius nor Strabo was able to disco- 
 ver any springs corresponding to the Scamandrian 
 sources of Homer. Demetrius, having observed 
 how utterly irreconcileable the single source of the 
 Scamander in the distant summit of Mount Ida 
 is with Homer's description of the Scamandrian 
 springs, was under the awkward necessity of imagi- 
 ning that those fountains, wherever they might be, 
 were called the springs of Scamander, not as being 
 in reality the sources, but only because they were 
 near the Scamander, or because they afforded a 
 stream which joined that river ^. And as the valley 
 and river of Ghiumbrek do not unite with the plain 
 and river of the Mendere till very near the sea, De- 
 
 * Strabo, p. 598. 
 
 t So called from the ruins of an aqueduct upon arches 
 (xay.cicss) which crosses the bed of the river. This aqueduct 
 probably conveyed water from Mount Ida to New Ilium. 
 
 \ Demet. ap. Strab. p. 602. 
 u 
 
290 
 
 Ch. G. 
 
 metrius distinguishes the Simoeisian from the Sca- 
 mandrian plain* — a distinction, it may be observed, 
 which no where occurs in Homer, and is in fact 
 inconsistent with his topography. 
 
 There seems no other mode of obviating these 
 difficulties, inevitably attendant upon taking the 
 Mendere in its whole course for the Homeric Sca- 
 mander, but to suppose that the river of Bunar- 
 bashi was the ancient Scamander, that it gave name 
 to the united stream, and that the part of the Men- 
 dere above the junction was the Simoeis. The 
 latter name appears to have become obsolete during 
 the ages in which the events of the war of Troy 
 had been almost forgotten on the scene itself, and 
 in the time of Demetrius and Strabo to have been 
 known only to antiquaries inquiring into the topo- 
 graphy of the Ilias. The name of Scamander on the 
 other hand, being the more illustrious of the two, 
 and a name apparently of familiar import in Asia 
 Minor f , was retained in use: but as the river of Bu- 
 narbashi had lost much of its local importance, and 
 had now become of inferior consideration, the name 
 
 * Demetr. ap. Strab. p. 597. 
 
 t Scamander, Maeander and Mendere, — which last is now 
 applied by the Turks to three of the rivers of Asia Minor, — 
 seem all to belong to the ancient language of the country, 
 before the introduction of Greek. Scamander may be Sca- 
 Maeander, Sea being perhaps a distinctive prefix to the Trojan 
 Maeander. And the 2xa7a« irvXa) may have received its name 
 from the same word. 
 
Ch. G. 
 
 291 
 
 of Scamander before attached to the united stream 
 and to the Bunarbashi-su, was after the revival of 
 New Ilium by Lysimachus (and perhaps long before 
 that time) applied to the united stream and to the 
 whole course of the Mendere. 
 
 In some of the preceding pages we have had 
 occasion to remark in the instances of the San^a- 
 rius, Marauder, and Hermus, how easily the names 
 of two branches of a river are confounded with 
 one another or with the united stream, and how 
 readily they are transferred from the one to the 
 other. In addition to these examples, it may be ob- 
 served that a similar transmutation of name in two 
 branches of the same river, under circumstances 
 which cannot so easily be accounted for as in the 
 Trojan rivers, is to be found in Thessaly, where the 
 river called by Herodotus and Thucydides Api- 
 danus, is undoubtedly the same as the Enipeus of 
 later writers, whose Apidanus is at twelve miles 
 distance, and joins the other branch not far from the 
 confluence of the united stream with the Peneus. 
 
 The principal causes of the obscurity into which 
 the Homeric Scamander (or river of Bunarbashi) 
 had fallen at the time of Demetrius, are sufficiently 
 manifest. When Troy stood at Bunarbashi, it was 
 natural that the river which had its sources under 
 the walls should be one of the deified rivers of the 
 district. In the climate of Greece a perennial foun- 
 tain, however small, was held in at least equal ho- 
 nour with a large torrent affording only water that 
 
 u 2 
 
292 
 
 Ch. G. 
 
 was either turbid or stagnant: and we find many 
 proofs in ancient history, and upon ancient monu- 
 ments, especially coins, of the importance often at- 
 tached to streams, however diminutive, which flow 
 near the sites of large cities. It is not surprising, 
 therefore, that the river, which from the position of 
 its sources and from its utility was more peculiarly 
 the river of Troy, should, while Troy flourished, have 
 had a preference over the broad torrent in giving 
 name to the united stream ; or that its local impor- 
 tance should have ceased when the capital of the 
 district was removed to a situation nearer the sea. 
 But besides these accidental causes, there were 
 others arising from physical changes which tended 
 to destroy the importance of the river of Bunarba- 
 shi. The Mendere and its tributary streams, which 
 flow from Aktshi-Kiui, from the Kamara valley, 
 from Tshiblak and from Ghiumbrek, being all tor- 
 rents descending from lofty mountains, bring down 
 with them a great quantity of stones, earth, and 
 other matter : while the Bundrbashi stream, de- 
 riving all its water from pure deep-seated veins, has 
 little or no deposit. Hence during the ages which 
 have elapsed since the Trojan war, the eastern side 
 of the plain has been gradually rising ; the course 
 of the Mendere has been gradually receding from 
 that side *, and the western side has become more 
 
 * A part of the old bed is still to be seen in going from 
 Bunarbashi to Tshiblak. 
 
Ch. 0. 
 
 20.3 
 
 and more marshy ; until at length the Bunarbashi, 
 instead of uniting with the Mendere about the 
 middle of the plain, as in the time of the Trojan 
 war, is now forced to find its way through the 
 marshes on the western side, and from those marshes 
 into the Mendere by two exits not far from Kum- 
 Kale, or towards the ancient Sigeium. Its waters 
 in the plain have been still further diminished by 
 a canal, which carries off a large portion of them 
 into another stream, which joins not the Helles- 
 pont, but the iEgean, at a part of the coast situ- 
 ated not less than seven miles from the ancient 
 mouth of the Scamander. Whether this canal 
 is the remains of an ancient work made for the 
 purpose of draining the plain, when it became 
 marshy by the operation of the causes above stated, 
 or whether it was formed by the Turks merely for 
 its present use, of turning some mills, may be 
 doubtful : its effect has been to cut off in summer 
 all communication between the Bundrbashi springs 
 and the marshy ground on the western side of the 
 plain ; so that it is only in rainy seasons that the 
 old bed of the river, which is still very traceable, 
 is now filled with water. I shall here take occasion 
 to remark, that the manner in which the alluvion 
 collects in this plain, as already described, will ac- 
 count for an apparent difficulty in regard to those 
 passages of the Ilias which shew that the Scaman- 
 der (the united stream) flowed on the left of the 
 
294 
 
 Ch. 6. 
 
 Grecian encampment, or toward Rhoeteium *, in- 
 stead of towards Sigeium, as might be inferred from 
 Strabo f and present appearances: for it is evident 
 from the causes mentioned, that the altered course 
 of the river would be to the westward of the former 
 course ; and consequently that when there was a 
 bay at the mouth of the Scamander, the river pro- 
 bably issued into that bay, not towards its western, 
 but towards its eastern side J. No appearance of 
 a bay indeed is now visible ; but its former exist- 
 ence is undoubted, as well from the testimony of 
 
 * This has been admitted by nearly all the writers on the 
 Trojan question, but has been stated with particular clearness 
 by Major Rennell (Observations, Sect. IV.). I shall therefore 
 merely cite the verse of Homer, which furnishes the direct 
 
 proof. 
 
 "Exrwp 
 
 jxa^ijj W dpicrrsgd ^dpvato Ttderrf, 
 
 "Oy^Sag irdp irorajxolo Sxa/xavfyou 
 
 11. A. v. 497. 
 It is almost unnecessary to add, that the poet here, as else- 
 where, speaks of the left of the Greeks. Hector was opposed 
 to Ajax, whose station was on the Greek left. 
 f Strabo, p. 597, 598. 
 
 X In the time of Strabo (or Demetrius) the mouth of the 
 river was 20 stades distant from New Ilium : it has now moved 
 still further west, and joins the sea close to Kum-Kale. The 
 small harbour under Intepe (or the tomb of Ajax) is the modern 
 representative of the portus Achaeorum, which was the port of 
 New Ilium, and the nearest point of the coast to that city. 
 Strabo, p. 598. Plin. Hist. Nat. 1. 5. c. 30. Pomp. Mel. 1. 1 . 
 c. 18. Naustathmum was near the place where the river joined 
 the sea in the time of the geographer. 
 
Ch. 6. 
 
 295 
 
 Homer as from the physical structure of the land. 
 Instead of two promontories with a beach between 
 them, as described by the poet, there is now only 
 one low point of land, which has been formed be- 
 twen the two ancient capes by the soil brought down 
 from the upper country by the river, and deposited 
 at its mouth in the course of ages. The rate at 
 which the new land has accumulated may be in- 
 ferred from Strabo and Pliny, from whom it appears 
 that in their time New Ilium was distant about a 
 Roman mile and a half from the nearest shore *. 
 Now it appears from the existing vestiges of New 
 Ilium, by those of its citadel on the summit of the 
 hill of Paleo Kastro, which rises behind Kalafatli, 
 and Kum Kiui, and by other remains on the 
 western slope of that hill, — that the lower part 
 of the town reached nearly to the position of 
 Kum Kiui, which is three miles from the shore, 
 or more than double the distance assigned by 
 Strabo. Allowing therefore the same rate of accu- 
 mulation between the Trojan war and the Augustan 
 age, as since that period, it becomes probable that 
 in the former age the sea reached to about half a 
 mile below the position of Kum Kiui : and conse- 
 quently that Hestisea of Alexandria was nearly cor- 
 rect in supposing that all the plain below the hill 
 of New Ilium had been gained from the sea since 
 
 * Strabo says 12 stadia; Pliny, 1500 Roman paces. 
 
290 
 
 Ch. 6. 
 
 the time of the Trojan war *, — the sandy ground at 
 the extremity of the slope of that hill, which gives 
 name to Kum Kiui (Sand-village), marks perhaps 
 what was at one period the sea beach. To those 
 who may think this formation of new land over- 
 rated i, it is to be observed, that in every instance 
 in which the history of Greece has left us the 
 means of comparison, the same phenomenon has 
 occurred in the maritime plains ; and that in the 
 instances of the Spercheius and Masander, but par- 
 ticularly of the latter, the soil has been formed in 
 the same period of time with a much greater ra- 
 pidity. 
 
 From all these considerations, therefore, it seems 
 highly probable that the mouth of the Scamander 
 in the time of the Trojan war was not far from 
 
 * Hestieeu ap. Strab. p. 599. 
 
 t A late writer on the Trojan question (Mr. Maclaren) par- 
 ticularly insists on this supposed error, and conceives the sandy 
 point of Kum Kale to be nearly in the same state as it was in 
 the Trojan war ; founding his opinion chiefly on the rapidity 
 of the current of the Hellespont, which must, he thinks, have 
 carried away the soil almost as quickly as it was brought down. 
 But the cape of new formation which lies between Kum Kale and 
 Intepe is surely a proof that the current has had no such cflect ; 
 and in fact every one who has navigated the Hellespont knows 
 that there is a strong counter current along the two shores, 
 the effect of which has probably contributed to form that cape. 
 Strabo (p. 599.) has collected the passages of Homer which 
 support his opinion that Troy stood far from the sea,- and these 
 alone seem fatal to the new hypothesis brought forward by the 
 author just alluded to — that nf its position at New Ilium. 
 
Ch. 6. 
 
 297 
 
 the situation now occupied by the village of Kiun 
 Kiui, and that the river of Bunarbashi or Sea- 
 man der, instead of then creeping along the foot 
 of the southern and western heights, crossed the 
 plain from near Erkessi in the direction of Kum 
 Kiui, and that it joined the Mendere or Simoeis 
 towards the middle of the plain, perhaps not far 
 from the present village of Kalafatli. The passages 
 of the I lias in which the vogog, or ford of the Sea- 
 mander is mentioned, tend to show that such must 
 have been the course of the river, if Troy stood at 
 Bunarbashi; and we have seen that the nature of 
 the plain, and the manner in which the alluvion has 
 been accumulated, render such a state of the river 
 in ancient times highly probable. 
 
 A third objection to Bunarbashi as the site of 
 Troy is, that its distance from the Grecian station 
 at the mouth of the Scamander is so great as to 
 render impossible some of the events of the Ilias. 
 In considering this distance, however, we must first 
 deduct from the actual distance of Bunarbashi 
 from the nearest shore, the new land formed 
 since the Trojan war, together with the depth of 
 the Grecian encampment, which in length extend- 
 ed from the foot of the hill of Achilleium on 
 the right, to the mouth of the Scamander on the 
 left. The new land we have already seen to have 
 been nearly all that which now lies below Kum 
 Kiui. The following are the only circumstances 
 
298 
 
 Ch. 6. 
 
 upon which we may build a judgement as to the 
 extent of the Grecian encampment. 
 
 According to the poet, the bay was too narrow 
 to contain the whole fleet, which was therefore ar- 
 ranged in several lines*. Although nothing but 
 necessity could have made the Greeks submit to 
 having any of their vessels at a distance from the 
 sea, and that we may therefore suppose the number 
 of lines to have been as few as possible, the poet's 
 expression will hardly allow the supposition that 
 there were fewer than four or five lines. And this 
 number agrees very well with the dimensions of the 
 ground : for if we allow 25 feet for the breadth of 
 each ship, added to the interval between it and the 
 next, we shall find that about one-fifth of 1200, 
 which is the amount of Homer's enumeration f» 
 would have been sufficient to occupy the space of 
 one mile and a quarter, to which the rear of the 
 Greek encampment was confined by the hill of 
 Achilleium on the right, and by the river on the left, 
 supposing its mouth to have been near Kum Kiui J. 
 
 * OvSe yap ovS\ svpv$ ttep swv, sSwrjirato itdtrag 
 A)yia\b$ vrjcts yaVzW otejVovt'o 8e Aao/ 1 
 Tuj pa nrpoxp6(r<ra$ Egucrav, xau Tt\y<rav dirdcrrjs 
 'HioVoj crro'/jta [iax.pbv, otrov <ruvespyaQov anpai. II. E. v. 33. 
 f Thucydides (1. 1. c. 10.) verifies our copies of the catalogue 
 by remarking that the total number of ships was 1200. 
 
 X In one passage (O. 676) the poet seems to represent 
 Ajax as striding from ship to ship : but if some of the vessels 
 were so closely arranged as to have admitted of such an action, 
 
Ch. 6. 
 
 299 
 
 For the breadth or depth of the encampment it 
 would not be necessary to assign more than three 
 or four hundred yards, if it were measured only by 
 the length of the ships, added to the necessary 
 interval between the rows: but it is obvious that 
 a large space must, either in the length or depth 
 of the encampment, have been required for the 
 tents of the leaders, for the chariots and horses, 
 for the market, and for the places to contain the 
 cattle and other commodities which the Greeks 
 collected for provisions, or to be exchanged for 
 wine *. In short, for a permanent encampment of 
 between 50,000 and 100,000 menf, with a front 
 of a mile and a quarter, a depth of not less than 
 half a mile would be necessary. Such a space 
 would not be greater than was required by the Ro- 
 mans for their encampments ^; in which, although 
 there was ample accommodation for the several de- 
 partments of the army, there was no necessity for 
 the space required in the camp before Troy, for the 
 ships, and for some of the other incumbrances in- 
 
 a greater width must have been necessary between the divisions 
 than if each vessel was isolated : so that in either case the en- 
 tire space required will be nearly the same. 
 
 * II. H. v. 467. 
 
 f About one hundred thousand is the result of the calcula- 
 tion of Thucydides ; and the extent of country from which the 
 army was collected will hardly allow of a smaller number. We 
 may admit, however, with the historian, that a large part of 
 them was always absent collecting plunder and provisions. 
 
 % Polyb. 1. 6. c. 27, &c See Lipsius dc Mil. Rom. 1. 5. 
 
300 
 
 Ch. 6. 
 
 cidental to its permanence. On the one hand we 
 can hardly restrict the Greek camp to a smaller 
 space than I have mentioned, because it would have 
 been insufficient to contain the ships and tents: 
 on the other, a much larger can hardly be assigned ; 
 because the inconvenience of having any of the 
 ships at a distance from the sea-shore would be a 
 powerful motive for contracting the space towards 
 the plain, and because the poet expressly states that 
 the army was crowded *. 
 
 In considering, therefore, the transactions of the 
 Ilias, the present distance of Bunarbashi from the 
 mouth of the Scamander must be diminished about 
 three miles and a half, in order to give the distance 
 between Troy and the Grecian rampart, which will 
 thus be reduced to about six miles. 
 
 The events which have been considered most in- 
 consistent with the distance of Bundrbashi from the 
 Hellespont, are those occurring on the days called 
 by Pope the 23d and 28th; the former day occu- 
 pies the 2d, 3d, 4th, 5th, 6th, and the greater part 
 of the 7th books of the poem ; the 28th day extends 
 from the beginning of the 11th to the middle of 
 the 18th book. 
 
 On the 23d day the Greeks are drawn out, after 
 
 * <rrelvovTo Se Xocol. These words, however, seem more to 
 relate to the unusual and somewhat dangerous expedient of 
 douhling the ranks of ships, in eonsequence of the narrowness 
 of the beach, than to the crowded state of the army in general . 
 
Ch. 5. 
 
 301 
 
 their forenoon's repast, in the plain lying between 
 the rampart and the Scamander ; and from thence 
 they advance to the city, where, after the duel be- 
 tween Menelaus and Paris, the armies join battle 
 with alternate success. At one time the Trojans 
 have so far prevailed as to have approached the 
 Greek camp*; and at another, the Greeks are 
 again near the cityf. Hector then rallies his army; 
 a duel ensues between him and Ajax, which is put 
 an end to by the approach of night J, and the 
 Greeks retire to their encampment. It does not 
 seem necessary to suppose that the ground passed 
 over by the Greeks on this day is more than 20 
 or 22 miles; six of which were performed after the 
 close of day. 
 
 On the 28th day the two armies drawn out in 
 the plain before the Greek encampment, fought 
 only with the light troops until the hour of the 
 woodman's meal §, which, to judge by modern 
 customs, was about 9 or 10 o'clock in the fore- 
 noon. The charioteers of the two armies having 
 then come to action, the Greeks had the superio- 
 rity, and beat back the Trojans quite to the walls 
 of Troy ||, where Agamemnon being wounded, 
 Hector in turn leads the victorious Trojans to the 
 Grecian rampart, forces it, and fights at the ships. 
 Patroclus then advances to battle in the armour of 
 
 * II. E. v. 791 
 § A. v. .86. 
 
 f Z. v. 256, 435. 
 il A. v. 170. 
 
 J H. v. 282. 
 
302 
 
 Ch. 0. 
 
 Achilles, and drives the Trojans back to the city. 
 Here he is slain, and the Trojans again advance 
 near to the Greek camp before the day closes *. 
 As the movements on this day carry the parties 
 quite up to the hostile fortifications, the distance 
 passed over is in so much, but no more, greater 
 than on the 23d day; and 24 miles seems to be 
 the utmost distance that we are obliged to suppose 
 the Greeks to have passed over on this day. 
 
 In considering the probability of these exploits, 
 we must take into consideration that whatever may 
 have been the proportion of the infantry to the 
 chariots, the extreme distances appear to have been 
 performed only by the latter ; for Homer, in all 
 the great movements from the Greek camp to 
 Troy, and from Troy to the Greek camp, as well 
 as in all the principal actions, notices the chariots 
 only. Even in the assault of the wall, in the be- 
 ginning of the 12th book, Hector descends from 
 his chariot; and all the other Trojans, adds the 
 poet, follow his example. 
 
 Not much argument, however, seems necessary 
 against objections which, when allowed in their full- 
 est force, are founded only on the exaggerations of a 
 poet, to whom, however accurate as a geographer 
 and historian when it was his object to be so, we 
 cannot refuse the usual poetical liberties in some of 
 the most animated descriptions which his work 
 * 2. v. 239. 
 
Ch. 6. 
 
 303 
 
 contains. If the labours of the Trojan and Grecian 
 heroes in the two days the events of which are 
 thought to disprove the position of Troy at Bunar- 
 bashi, were too great for ordinary men; they were 
 not beyond the power of heroes who could hurl 
 such rocks as two men in the time of the poet 
 were unable even to lift*; who could make their 
 voices heard from the centre to either extremity f, 
 or even from the one end to the other % of an en- 
 campment of sixty or eighty thousand men; and 
 who could see so clearly, that Helen is able from 
 the walls of Troy to point out and minutely describe 
 all the leaders of the Grecian host, when the whole 
 Trojan army lay between §. It is evident that these 
 are fictions which the Muse allows and encourages ; 
 and instances of them are so frequent throughout 
 the poem, that it cannot be necessary to make any 
 more particular reference to them. At one time 
 the poet found it convenient to magnify beyond pro- 
 bability, or even beyond possibility, the common oc- 
 currences of war; at another, to bring together the 
 actions of an extensive field, in order to present 
 them to view in one continued scene. 
 
 A fourth objection which has been made against 
 the site of Bunarbashi is, that in this position it 
 would have been impossible for AchiJles to have pur- 
 sued Hector three times round the walls of Troy, 
 
 T. v. 286. 
 
 II. E. v. 303. 
 n. v. 77. 
 
 f 0. v. 222. 
 § T. v. 178. 
 
304 
 
 Ch. G. 
 
 as Homer relates. But does Homer really so relate ? 
 It cannot be denied that many interpreters, ancient 
 and modern, have understood the poet in this sense ; 
 and it is perhaps the most obvious meaning to a cur- 
 sory reader, who does not particularly consider the 
 fact described, or who has not, by a view of the site 
 of Troy, been convinced of its extreme improbabi- 
 lity. Virgil, however, who in the latter part of the 
 12th book of the iEneis, has very closely imitated 
 every part of Homer's description of the encounter 
 between Achilles and Hector, seems to have under- 
 stood his prototype very differently. He does not 
 represent Turnus as pursued by his adversary round 
 the walls of Laurentum, but as forming a circle in 
 a plain which was bounded by those walls, by a 
 marsh, and by the Trojan army. In like manner 
 the pursuit of Hector by Achilles occurred in sight 
 of the Trojans, collected on the ramparts on one 
 side, and of the Grecian army drawn out in the 
 plain on the other. And the poet, in describing 
 the action, mentions no objects passed by Hector 
 and Achilles, except the Scsean or Dardanian gate, 
 the carriage-way under the walls, the Erineus, and 
 the source of the Scamander* ; all places which we 
 know to have been on the side of the city towards 
 the plain. Can it be supposed that Homer intended 
 to describe the heroes as following such a track as 
 must have concealed them entirely from the view of 
 both armies, except in a small portion of the circle? 
 * 11. X. v. 131. 
 
Cli. G. 
 
 305 
 
 It has justly been observed by Lechevalier and 
 Choiseul Gouffier that the word tso;, which has 
 given rise to the erroneous interpretation of this 
 passage, means, in other passages* perfectly si- 
 milar, near or before the city, and not around it. 
 To this I may add, that no supposed situation 
 of the city, which is not entirely in the plain, 
 will suit the idea of a course round the entire 
 circuit of the walls; and that such a situation 
 would be totally unadapted to the description 
 which Homer has given of Troy, as windy f , lof- 
 ty J, and as surmounted with a citadel bordered 
 by precipices §. Strabo in fact, following Deme- 
 trius, makes use of this very argument to prove 
 that the ancient city did not stand at New Ilium; 
 round which, he remarks, it would have been im- 
 possible for Achilles to have pursued Hector |j. It 
 would seem, therefore, that the poet, as a keen ob- 
 server of nature, intended to describe that circular 
 course, which a person invariably takes when he 
 runs from another, and finds no shelter or advan- 
 tageous position for defending himself. The track 
 of the two heroes was from the Scasan gate, along 
 the road under the walls, by the Erineus, and by 
 the fountains of the Scamander back again to the 
 
 * II. B. 508. Z. 327. n. 448. 2. 279. 
 
 t II. T.395. 0.499. M. 115. N. 724. 2.174. ¥. 64,297. 
 
 % II. N. 625. 
 
 §11. A. 508. Z. 512. E. 460. X. 411. 12.700. 
 
 !! Strabo, p. 599. 
 
 X 
 
306 
 
 Ch. 6. 
 
 Scasan gate. 'Clg oi rgig Hpictpoto iroktv iregi hvij- 
 
 It remains to offer a few remarks in justification 
 of the north-eastern portion of the map which ac- 
 companies the present volume. This part of Asia 
 Minor was called Pontus by the Romans, from its 
 bordering on the Euxincsea: though it still retained 
 the divisions of its ancient inhabitants, the Bithyni, 
 Maryandini, Caucones, and Paphlagones. Here, as 
 in many other parts of the peninsula, modern travel- 
 lers have not yet afforded us sufficient information 
 to enable us to make the best use of the evidence 
 of ancient history. The astronomical observations 
 of M. Beauchamp and Capt. Gauttier have been of 
 great importance in giving the correct length of the 
 coast, its general outline, and the exact position of 
 the principal places : but it requires such a careful 
 survey as that of the southern coast by Capt. Beau- 
 fort, to illustrate fully the three ancient Periplus of 
 the Pontic coast f, and to correct the numerical 
 
 * x. 1165. 
 
 t These Periplus are: 1. By Arrian, governor of Cappadocia 
 under Hadrian. 2. By Marcian of Heraclia Pontica, who is 
 supposed to have lived about a century later than Arrian. And, 
 3. By an anonymous author, who has collected his information 
 from the two former, and from some other sources. He is of 
 a much later date than the two others, as appears from the 
 names of his own time, which he has annexed to some of the 
 ancient names, and by the miles which he has subjoined to the 
 stades. 
 
Ch. 6. 
 
 307 
 
 errors which their disagreement with one another 
 proves to exist in them. 
 
 On the sea-coast all the most important sites of 
 antiquity are determined by the actual names. — 
 These sites are Rhebas, nowRiva; Calpe, Kerpe; 
 the river Sa7igarius, Sakaria; Ueraclia, Eregri; 
 the river Parthe?iius, Bartan, in Greek Parth^ni; 
 Amastris, Amasera; Cy torus, Kidros; Thymena, 
 Temena; Carambis, Kerempe ; Abonuteichus, &i- 
 terward Ionopolis, Ainaboli; Cinolis, Kinoli; Ste- 
 phane, Istefan, in Greek Stefanos; Sinope, Sinub, 
 in Greek Sinopi; Carusa, Kerze; Amisus, Sarn- 
 sun. With these data it will not be difficult for 
 the future traveller to fix the intermediate names 
 of the three Periplus: especially as existing vestiges 
 of antiquity, and the rivers which form a large 
 proportion of the ancient names, will greatly facili- 
 tate the task. 
 
 Although the route along this coast, in the 
 Peutinger Table, is unworthy of much notice, and 
 conveys very little information, it is right to point 
 out the obvious correction of one remarkable error 
 which it contains. The author, misled by the 
 similarity of the name of Amastris (written Ma- 
 strum in the Table) with that of Amasia, has sub- 
 stituted the coast-road from Amastris to Sinope 
 for that leading from Amasia to Sinope. Of this 
 the names along the latter route in the Table, al- 
 though disfigured, leave no doubt. — Cromen, Cy- 
 
 x -L 
 
308 
 
 Ch. 6. 
 
 tliero, Egilan, Carambas, Stefano, Syrtas, are ob- 
 viously intended for Cromna, Cytorum, iEgiali, 
 Caranibis, Stephane, Syrias ; and the sum of the 
 distances, 149 M. P., is tolerably correct. It 
 is probable, therefore, that the two roads should 
 change places in the Table; although it must be 
 confessed that no proof of this inference is to be 
 found in the road of the Table from Mastrum to 
 Sinope; for the sum of the distances of the three 
 places on that route is not above half the real road- 
 distance, and I can find no traces of their names 
 (Tycas, Cerese, and Miletus) in any other ancient 
 author. 
 
 Another and a more important defect in the routes 
 of the Table through Paphlagonia, is the omission 
 of the name of the place which by its two towers \§ 
 shown to have been the most remarkable on the road 
 leading from Nieoinedia to Gangra, with a branch 
 to Amasia. As this route of the Table lies between 
 the coast road and that leading from Nicasa to 
 Amasia by Juliopolis, Ancyra, and Tavium, it 
 seems evidently to have been the same as the mo- 
 dern road from Nicomedia to Amasia by Boli; for 
 the structure of the country, and the direction of 
 its mountains, passes, valleys, and rivers, must na- 
 turally have led the main ancient road in the same 
 direction as the modern. The position in the Table 
 of the place with two towers without a name, rela- 
 tively to the two ends of the route, shows that it 
 
Ch. 6. 
 
 309 
 
 stood on or about the site now oceupied by Boli. 
 Now Boli is evidently an abbreviation of some name 
 ending in Polis, which in process of time was vul- 
 garly used in that form, like jj iroXtg for Constan- 
 tinople. In Honorias, which under Constantine 
 formed a district separate from Paphlagonia proper, 
 lying between it and Bithynia, there were three 
 places with the termination of polis — Claudiopolis, 
 or Bithy nium ; Flaviopolis, or Cratia ; and Hadri- 
 anopolis*. The other towns of Honorias wereTium, 
 Heraclia Pontica, and Prusias on the Hypius ; so 
 that the district seems to have chiefly comprehend- 
 ed the country lying between the Sangarius and 
 theBillseus. Bithynium or Claudiopolis was on the 
 Sangarius f ; and having been originally a colony 
 from Greece^, was probably not far from the 
 mouth of that river, Greek colonies having gene- 
 rally settled in maritime situations, as we see in- 
 stanced in several cities on this coast. Flaviopolis 
 was twenty or thirty miles from Claudiopolis, on the 
 road leading from that place to Ancyra§ ; conse- 
 quently to the westward of Boli. Boli, therefore, 
 seems to have been the ancient Hadrianopolis. It 
 is singular that among the numerous inscriptions 
 
 * Ptolem. 1. 5. c. 1. Hierocl. Synecd. p. 694. Notit. Episc 
 Graec. 
 
 t Pausan. Arcad. c. 9. Stephan. in BjSuvjov. 
 I From Mantineia in Arcadia. Pausan. ibid. 
 § 1 tin. Anion, p. 200. 
 
310 
 
 Ch. 6. 
 
 which so many travellers agree in having observed 
 near Boli, not one should yet have been copied, 
 containing the name of the ancient city. 
 
 The other places on this road in the Table have 
 been inserted in the Map, in the situations which 
 I have thought the most probable, trusting less to 
 the distances in the Table, (which are probably not 
 more correct in detail than they are in the general 
 result,) than to the situation of the valleys and fer- 
 tile districts. Potamia, a place which Strabo has 
 noticed as being in this part of the country*, seems 
 to have stood in the valley of Beinder, where the 
 branches of the Parthenius first unite into a consi- 
 derable stream. 
 
 On another route in the Table, which crosses 
 the preceding nearly at right angles, the only place 
 named between Gangra and Sinope is Pompeiopo- 
 lis. This place seems to have occupied the site of 
 Tash Kiupri, as well from the position ot that mo- 
 dern town, as from the considerable remains of an- 
 tiquity found there, and which are apparently of the 
 date when Pompeiopolis may be supposed to have 
 flourished. 
 
 Of Germanicopolis, or Germanopolis, we know 
 only that it was one of the principal places of the 
 interior of Paphlagonia, and that it continued to 
 be so in the sixth century +. It has probably left 
 
 * Strabo, p. 502. 
 t Ptolem. 1. 5. c.4. 
 
 Justinian. Novel. 29. c.l. 
 
Ch. (). 
 
 311 
 
 some remains similar to those of Pompeiopolis, 
 though they have not yet been discovered by mo- 
 dern travellers. D'Anville supposed Germanico- 
 polis to have occupied the site of Kastamiini; but 
 the words in the Novelise of Justinian seem to 
 place it near Gangra *. — Kastamiini is the mo- 
 dern corruption of Castamon, which we find men- 
 ioned in the Byzantine history |, and which may 
 have been a more ancient name, although it is not 
 found in Ptolemy, nor in any authority earlier 
 than the 12th century. 
 
 The subordinate districts of Paphlagonia and 
 Cappadocia Pontica; namely, Timonitis, Bogdo- 
 manis, Zygiani, Marmolitis, Blaene, Domanitis, 
 Cimiatene, Gazelonitis, Saramene, Phamezonitis, 
 Diacopene_,Babamonitis, — have been inserted in the 
 map, from the information, as well as it could be 
 understood, of Strabo and Ptolemy ; and some of 
 the Turkish names from the still obscurer descrip- 
 tion of Abubekr Ben Behrem. 
 
 It is much to be regretted that no modern tra- 
 veller has visited Tshorum, which there is the 
 strongest reason to believe occupies the site of Ta- 
 vium, the chief fortress of the Trocmi, and a very 
 important point in the ancient itineraries. 
 
 Upon comparing the road from Tavium to Cas- 
 
 * See the Note on 2.6pa in Hieroc. Synec. p. 695. ed. Wess. 
 t Anna Comn. 1. 7. p. 206. Nicet. in Joan. Comn. Chalco- 
 cond. 1.9. p. 259. 
 
312 
 
 Ch. 6. 
 
 sareia (Mazaca) in the Table with that in the An- 
 tonine itinerary, we find that none of the names 
 agree — that the distance in the Table is nearly dou- 
 ble that in the Antonine — and that both of them 
 give an incorrect rate to the Roman mile. It might 
 be supposed, in explanation of this difficulty, that 
 there were two roads from Tavium to Csesareia ; 
 but I am inclined to think there is some error here 
 in the Antonine, as it places Soanda on this road, 
 which we have good authority for believing to have 
 been in a very different situation, namely, on the 
 great western road from Caesareia, between that 
 city and Garsabora *. 
 
 Artemid. ap. Strab. p. 663. 
 
ADDITIONAL NOTES. 
 
 1 HAVE reserved to this place all observations on the geogra- 
 phical information contained in the Latin historians of the 12th 
 century, who have described the first crusade * ; because, upon 
 a careful examination of it, I have not found any thing either to 
 invalidate or materially to confirm that which is deducible from 
 the ancients or from the Byzantines. At the same time there 
 are several passages in the Latin historians which may receive 
 some illustration from the cotemporary Greeks, or from the 
 ancient geographical authorities. 
 
 NOTE TO PAGE 9. 
 
 The following is the substance of a short account, by Anna 
 Comnena, of the military operations in Bithynia in the autumn 
 of the year 1096, which proved fatal to so many of the followers 
 of Peter the Hermit. Peter having passed over into Asia, con- 
 trary to the advice which the Emperor Alexius gave him to wait 
 for the other crusaders who were then on the way, encamped at 
 Helenopolis, from whence the Normans proceeded to ravage the 
 country around Nicaea ; and having successfully defended them- 
 selvesagainst a body of Turks, whichadvanced against them, they 
 carried back their spoil in safety to Helenopolis. In a second ex- 
 pedition they occupied the fort of Xerigordus ; but the sultan Ki- 
 lidj Arslan, having sent one of his officers against them, retook 
 that place, slew many of the Normans, and made many of them 
 prisoners. He then sent two men to raise a report in the 
 camp at Helenopolis, that the Normans had taken possession 
 of Nicaea, and were plundering it ; when the other troops, de- 
 
 * Gcsta Dei per Franeos. 
 
314 
 
 sirous of sharing in the spoil, proceeded in a disorderly manner 
 towards Nicae : and thus they fell into an ambuscade which the 
 Sultan had stationed in a place called Draco, and were cut to 
 pieces. The number that fell was so great that their bones 
 formed a mountain. Peter then retired to Helenopolis, where 
 he was invested by the Turks : but the Emperor, unwilling that 
 he should be taken, sent his officer Catacalon with some ships 
 to his succour, upon whose arrival the Turks retired, and Peter 
 returned with his surviving followers into Europe. 
 
 From the Latins there is great difficulty in extracting any 
 clear account of these events, which may partly be ascribed 
 to the want of a good map, partly to the ignorance of the 
 authors in ancient geography, but chiefly to the circum- 
 stance of none of those writers having been personally engaged 
 in Peter's imprudent expedition. They agree tolerably well 
 with the Greek Princess in regard to the principal events, but 
 are at variance both with her and with one another as to many 
 of the particulars. They relate that the crusaders, having 
 crossed the Bosphorus, marched to Nicomedia, and from thence 
 to a place on the sea-side called Civitot or Civito, where they 
 were amply supplied with provisions by sea. The French 
 troops, separating from the others, spread themselves over the 
 country and took possession of an abandoned fortress called 
 Exerogorgo (the Xerigordus of Anna Comnena), the situation 
 of which is variously described as four days beyond Nicomedia, 
 as four days beyond Nicaea, and as three or four miles from the 
 latter. Here they were soon surrounded by the Turks, who cut 
 oft" their supply of water, slew many of them, and at length, by 
 the treachery of one of the French chieftains named Reynald, 
 captured many more. Soon after this event there was a general 
 action in the field, which was fatal to the gallant military com- 
 mander of Peter's army, Gauthier Sansavoir, (Walter the mo- 
 neyless,) as well as to several other distinguished leaders. The 
 exact scene of action it is very difficult to understand, though it 
 rather appears from a comparison of Anna Comnena with Albert 
 of Aix-la-Chapelle, and William of Tyre, the two Latin authors 
 who have given the fullest account of these transactions, to have 
 been at the northern extremity of the plain of Nicaea, and on the 
 
315 
 
 adjoining hills. The chief slaughter of the Franks seems to have 
 occurred in the passes leading from thence to the sea, of which 
 passes the Turks had made themselves masters during the action, 
 unknown to the enemy. According to the Latin historians, a 
 part of their army found its way bade to Civitot, where they were 
 speedily surrounded by the Turks, and where they would have 
 been in great danger of being all slain or taken, had not the 
 Turks been induced, by the mediation of Alexis, to retire, and 
 to leave the crusaders at liberty to return to Constantinople. 
 
 It naturally occurs, on reading these two accourfts of the 
 same events, that Helenopolis, which name is not found in the 
 Gesta Dei per Francos, was the same place which the authors 
 of that collection mean by Civitot ; but a little further examina- 
 tion will show this supposition to be inadmissible. In the first 
 place, the passage of Procopius referred to in page 8 of this vo- 
 lume * is a convincing proof that Helenopolis was on the shore 
 of the Gulf of Nicomedia. Procopius, in complaining of the in- 
 jury which Justinian had done to the imperial establishment for 
 the relay of horses on all the great post roads of the empire f, re- 
 marks in particular, that the abolition of the post from Chulcedon 
 to Dacibyza had obliged all persons who were going from Con- 
 stantinople to Helenopolis to cross the sea in small boats, which 
 often exposed them to great danger. It is evident, as well from 
 this passage of Procopius as from several others in Anna Com- 
 nena, that Helenopolis was the usual place of debarkation for those 
 going from the capital to Nicsea and the south eastward, as theDil 
 or Glossa is at present ; and hence Constantine turned his atten- 
 tion to this important point soon after he had established the 
 seat of empire at Byzantium, giving to the village of Drepa- 
 num X, which before stood there, the name of Helenopolis in 
 honour of his mother. From the same sense of its importance, 
 
 * Procop. Hist. Seer. c. 30. 
 
 f In each interval that might be traversed by a foot passenger in a day, 
 there were several inns, and at each inn 40 horses and as many grooms, — 
 so that a courier could perform in one day a distance equal to ten pede- 
 strian journeys. Justinian substituted asses for horses, and left only one 
 inn, where before there had been from five to eight. 
 
 J Nicephor. Callist. 1. 7. c. 4y. 
 
316 
 
 Justinian augmented Helenopolis, and constructed there an 
 aqueduct, a bath, and other buildings *. 
 
 Secondly, it cannot be doubted that the barbarous name Civitot 
 or Civito, which, like many otherparts of the narrative, the authors 
 of the Gesta Dei have copied from one another, is no other than 
 the K<£wto; (pronounced Kivotoin modern Greek) of Anna Com- 
 nena. In the following year we find that it was the place of de- 
 barkation and maritime supply for the crusaders, especially during 
 their operations before Nicaea ; and it clearly appears, upon a 
 comparison of the Latin historians with Anna, to have beenin the 
 Gulf of Cius, and not far from that city : for the former state that, 
 in order to complete the blockade of Nicasa, and to prevent the 
 Turks in the city from receiving succours by the lake, boats were 
 collected at Civitot and conveyed from thence overland into the 
 lake ; while from the Greek princess we learn | that this opera- 
 tion, which according to her was performed by placing the boats 
 in chariots, took place on the side of the lake towards Cius. 
 Here, in fact, the ground was more favourable to it than in any 
 part of the borders of the lake, and here also the lake approaches 
 nearest to the sea, the interval being, as Albert of Aix remarks, 
 about seven miles. 
 
 As to the statement of Anna, that Alexius sent ships to the 
 assistance of Peter, when invested by the Turks at Helenopolis, 
 compared with that of the Latin historians, who represent Ci- 
 vitot to have been the last retreat of the crusaders, the only mode 
 of reconciling this apparent contradiction is to suppose that the 
 defeated and dispersed crusaders retreated through the woods 
 to both those places, that both were invested by the victorious 
 Turks, but that it was to Helenopolis that Alexius sent his 
 admiral, whose interference with the Turks liberated the Franks 
 at Cibotus, as well as those who were shut up in Helenopolis. 
 
 NOTE TO PAGE 18. 
 
 The Latin historians are at variance with one another, and 
 with Anna Comnena, in many of the circumstances attending 
 the march of the crusaders, after the capture of Nicaea, to the 
 
 Trocop, de JEdif. 1. 5. c. 2. 
 
 f Ann. Com ii. p. T>]2. 
 
317 
 
 plain of Dorylaeum, and relating to the great battle which took 
 place there. Thus much however may be gathered from them : 
 that the crusaders moved in a single line in two days from Nicsea 
 to Leucae ; that at Leucae they crossed the Gallus by a bridge, 
 and halted for two days to refresh themselves and their cattle in 
 that fertile valley. They then divided themselves into two 
 bodies ; that which was accompanied by Godfrey took the road 
 to the right, (the road probably which now leads through Bo- 
 zavik,) while Bohemond and the remainder of the forces pur- 
 sued the direct route to Dorylaeum. On the fourth day, the 
 latter corps being then, as it appears, encamped on the banks 
 of the Thymbres in the plain of Dorylaeum not far to the west- 
 ward of that town, was attacked by an immense army of Turks 
 under Kilidj Arslan. They supported the unequal contest from 
 the 2d to the 8th hour of the day, when Godfrey, who had re- 
 ceived from the messengers of Bohemond intelligence of what 
 was occurring, arrived, and, making an immediate attack on the 
 flank and rear of the Sultan's army, gained a complete victory 
 over them. 
 
 NOTE TO PAGES 37, 58. 
 
 The crusaders now marched in a single body and suffered 
 extreme distress from a want of water in the dry and barren 
 country which they had to traverse, until they arrived at a river 
 which appears to have been at no great distance from Antioch 
 the Less, or Antiocheia of Pisidia. At this city several chief- 
 tains with their followers separated themselves from the main 
 body and pursued different routes ; the remainder moved for- 
 ward to Iconium. It must be admitted, that if the evidence as 
 to the position of Antiocheia of Pisidia contained in this part of 
 the Gesta Dei is not sufficient to overthrow that of Strabo and 
 the Peutinger Table, — both which authorities tend to show that 
 it was not exactly on the modern route from Eski Shehr to 
 Konia by Bulwudun and Ak Shehr, — it is at least a proof that 
 Antiocheia lay not far from that line. The river which relieved 
 the sufferings of the crusaders seems to have been that which 
 flows through the plain of Karahiss-ir to the lake of Bulwudun. 
 
318 
 
 NOTE TO PAGE 65. 
 
 The princess Anna is silent as to all the proceedings of the 
 crusaders between the battle of Dorylaeum and their arrival be- 
 fore Antioch of Syria. But the Latins agree in stating that, 
 after marching from Iconium, they arrived at a place which is 
 variously spelt Erachia, Eraclia, Heraelea, Reclei ; and that here 
 they turned to the right through the mountains to Tarsus. 
 Some of them arid, that on the first day from Iconium they were 
 obliged to take a provision of water in skins, because none was 
 met with at the end of that day's journey ; that on the second 
 day they arrived at a river, and on the third at Heraelea. This 
 account of the country through which the crusaders marched 
 after quitting Iconium, is in every respect so accurate a descrip- 
 tion of the route from Konia to Tarsus through Erkle, that no 
 doubt can remain of Erkle having been the place at which they 
 arrived at the end of the third day's march from Iconium, — 
 and hence the authority of their historians may perhaps have been 
 considered a proof that Erkle is the position of one of the many 
 Greek cities called Heracleia. I have already remarked, however, 
 that there does not appear at any period of ancient history to 
 have been a Heracleia in this quarter of Asia Minor ; and I have 
 stated my reasons for thinking that Erkle is a corruption not 
 of 'HpxKXeia. but of " kpyaXXa,. It must be recollected that the 
 Mussulmans had been in possession of that part of the country 
 400 years before the arrival of the crusaders, and that sufficient 
 time therefore had elapsed for the Greek name to have assumed 
 the form of corruption which it now bears : Albert of Aix, who 
 writes it Reclei, which nearly represents the present sound, fur- 
 nishes us with a strong presumption that it really had then as- 
 sumed that form. 
 
 It is natural that the historians of the ciusade, having a suf- 
 ficient degree of learning to write in Latin, but no profound 
 knowledge of ancient geography, should have had just so much 
 familiarity with the name of Heraelea as would lead them to sup- 
 pose Erkle to be a corruption of Heraelea, and would induce 
 them to translate it in Latin by that word. It has been seen, 
 however, that they did nut all so convert it. Tudebode, Arch- 
 
319 
 
 bishop Baldric, and the Abbot Guibert, all write it Erachia. 
 Upon the whole, therefore, I find nothing in the Gesta Dei 
 which invalidates the conjecture of Erkle being the site of 
 Archalla. 
 
 NOTE TO PAGE 60. 
 
 In addition to the other proofs which I have given in the 
 note to this page of the little dependence that can be placed on 
 Xenophon's description of the route of Cyrus through Asia 
 Minor, the following may also be mentioned : Xenophon states 
 that there were three stations or thirty parasangs between Co- 
 lossae and Celaense : the distance by the road is not more than 
 30 miles. 
 
 NOTE TO PAGE 117. 
 
 The following is the description of Cilicia by Ammianus : 
 " Superatis Tauri montis verticibus, qui ad solis ortum subli- 
 mius attolluntur, Cilicia spatiis porrigitur late distentis, dives 
 bonis omnibus terra ejusque lateri dextro adnexa Isauria j pari 
 sorte uberi palmite viret, et frugibus multis ; quam mediam 
 navigabile flumen Calycadnus interscindit. Et hanc quidem, 
 prseter oppida multa, duae civitates exornantj Seleucia opus 
 Seleuci regis, et Claudiopolis quam deduxit coloniam Claudius 
 Caesar. Isaura .... aegre vestigia claritudinispristinse monstrat 
 admodum pauca." Ammian. 1. 14. c. 25. The situation of 
 Mout between the two great parallel ridges of Taurus corre- 
 sponds exactly with that of Claudiopolis as described by Theo- 
 phanes : KXavStoiroXewg . . . rfj$ jxsra£u fwv Svo Tavpujv h tra^'ny 
 Kst[jiivTj(. In the 3rd year of the Emperor Anastasius, Claudio- 
 polis, which had been recently recovered by Diogenes from the 
 Isaurians, was again suddenly invested by them and reduced to 
 the greatest extremity, when it was opportunely relieved by 
 John Cyrtus and Conon bishop of Apameia, who suddenly 
 crossing the passes of Taurus (those between Mout and La- 
 randa), v\ere assisted by a sortie of Diogenes, and thus com- 
 pletely defeated the Isaurians. The bishop died of a wound 
 which he received in the action. Theoph. Chronog. p. 119. 
 
320 
 
 Strabo (p. 672) describes a very ancient Greek colony of 
 the name of Olbe, founded by Ajax, son of Teucer, and which 
 had a temple of Jupiter that preserved its sanctity and import- 
 ance through many revolutions. He places Olbe in the moun- 
 tains behind Soli and Cyinda, which, although not a very accu- 
 rate description of the situation of the valley of Mout, seems 
 sufficient to identify the Olbe of Strabo with the Olbasa 
 which Ptolemy places in the Citis or valley of the Calycadnus. 
 Nothing indeed is more probable than that this spacious, fertile, 
 and easily defensible valley should have attracted a colony of 
 Greeks at an early period. Hierocles mentions both Olbe 
 and Ciaudiopolis in the province of Isauria, of which in his 
 time Seleucia was the chief town. It appears also from the 
 Notitiae, that they were separate Greek bishoprics. 
 
 NOTE TO PAGE 182. 
 
 The theatre of Telmissus is smaller than that of Patara. Ac- 
 cording to Foucherot, (see Choiseul Voyage Pittoresque de la 
 Grece, tome 1 . pi. 72) the diameter of the theatre of Telmissus 
 was 238 French feet, equal to 254 English. That of Patara is 
 265 (not 295 as stated in page 182). At Telmissus the cavea 
 contained 28 seats divided by a diazoma at the fifteenth seat 
 from the bottom. The theatre of Patara had about 30 rows of 
 seats. At Patara are the ruins of a bath, an inscription upon 
 which shows that it was erected by the Emperor Vespasian. 
 The theatre was built in the reign of Antoninus Pius. 
 
 NOTE TO PAGE 183. 
 
 By the kindness of Mr. Cockcrell, 1 am enabled to submit 
 to the reader a plan on a small scale of the theatre of Patara, 
 together with a sketch of the form and dimensions of the 
 theatre of Myra. Their construction resembles that of the 
 other theatres ')f Asia M ; nor as CKem')! ; fied a* Side* Tel- 
 missus, Miletus, Hierapolis, Laodiceia, and in several other 
 smaller theatres. It differs from that of the theatres of European 
 
 * For the details of the theatre of Side, from the drawings of Mr. 
 Cockerell, see the Karamania of Captain Beaufort. — The theatre of Side 
 is of the largest size, and is in hotter preservation than any in Asia Minor. 
 
THEATRE OF PATARA. 
 
 1 st 
 
 Q Q r] Q n 0n Q ,° 
 
 o jo %o So /oo 
 
 M ' ' ' ' "— 
 
 THEATRE OF MYRA. 
 
 loo feet 
 
 so too ?.oo 
 
 Y 
 
 >£<* 
 
322 
 
 Greece in the form of the extremities of the cavea, as far as we 
 can judge from such of the European Greek theatres as are suffi- 
 ciently preserved to show the construction of that part of the 
 building. In the Asiatic theatres the ends of the cavea diverged 
 from the orchestra, so as to form an oblique angle to the direction 
 of the scene. We find, on the contrary, that in the theatres of 
 Segeste, Tauromenium, Syracuse, Sparta, Epidaurus, Sicyon, 
 in the theatre of Herodes at Athens, and in that near loannina 
 in Epirus, the extremities of the cavea vere parallel to the 
 scene. In both, the cavea exceeded a semicircle ; but in the 
 Asiatic theatres the excess was formed by producing the same 
 curve at either extremity of the semicircle, until the cavea oc- 
 cupied from 200 to 225 degrees of a circle * ; whereas at Tau- 
 romenium, Sicyon, Epidaurus, and in the theatre near loan- 
 nina, the excess above a semicircle is formed by two right lines 
 drawn from the extremities of the semicircle perpendicular 
 to its diameter and to the direction of the scene, as in the an- 
 nexed figure f. 
 
 At Syracuse, the cavea was a semicircle and no more. In 
 the theatre of Herodes at Athens, the excess above a semicircle 
 was a curve, and it is therefore an exception to the European 
 rule. The other theatres of European Greece are too much 
 ruined to admit of any certainty on this point. 
 
 Vitruvius has not noticed this remarkable difference between 
 the Greek theatres of Europe and Asia ; but he gives the follow- 
 ing precise distinction between the Greek and the Roman 
 
 * The reader will perceive from the plan of the theatre of Myra, that 
 when the segment was very great, the ends of the cavea were directed not 
 upon the centre of the orchestra, but upon a point nearer to the scene. 
 
 f The form of the Asiatic Greek theatre is exemplified in the annexed 
 plans of Patara and Myra, and in that of Hierapolis, given in a succeed- 
 in <* note. 
 
32.'i 
 
 theatre : " To construct the Roman theatre, — having described 
 a circle of the size intended for the lowest part of the theatre, 
 inscribe in it four equilateral triangles, the angles of which will 
 divide the circumference into 12 equal parts. Assume the 
 side of one of the triangles for the position of the scene. A 
 line drawn parallel to it through the diameter of the circle, will 
 mark the separation of the pulpitum of the proscenium 
 from the orchestra. The seven angles of the triangles in the 
 semicircle of the orchestra determine the position of the scalse 
 or steps leading from the orchestra between the cunei into 
 the first praecinctio. The scalse leading from these to the 
 second precinctio are in the middle of the intervals between 
 the scalae of the lower cunei. The five remaining angles of the 
 triangles determine the divisions of the scene, the length of 
 which ought to be double the diameter of the orchestra. The con- 
 struction of the Greek theatre differs in some respects from that 
 of the Roman. In the Greek three squares are inscribed in 
 the circle of the lowest part of the theatre, dividing the circum- 
 ference into 12 equal parts as before. Having assumed a side 
 of one of the squares for the position of the Xoyslovor pulpitum 
 of the proscenium, a line parallel to it, touching the circum- 
 ference of the circle in the point most distant from the cavea, 
 will determine the line of the scene. Draw a diameter of the 
 circle parallel to the scene, and from each extremity of the dia- 
 meter as a centre describe a curve from the opposite extremity 
 until it intersects the line of the proscenium. These two curves, 
 the semicircle and the proscenium, inclose the orchestra." 
 
 CONSTRUCTION OF THE ROMAN THEATRE, ACCORD- 
 ING TO VITRUVIUS. 
 
324 
 
 ABCDE F A Cavea. 
 
 F D Pulpitum of the Proscenium. 
 
 G II Scene. 
 
 I Proscenium. 
 
 K K Cunei separated by Scala?. 
 
 F E D F Orchestra. 
 
 I. Postscenium. 
 
 CONSTRUCTION OF THE ORCHESTRA OF THE GREEK 
 THEATRE, ACCORDING TO VITRUVIUS. 
 
 A C Pulpitum of the Proscenium. 
 A B C A Orchestra. 
 D D Cunei of the Cavea. 
 E Proscenium. 
 F G Scene. 
 
 H I K The three centres, from which the curve of the Orchestra is 
 described. 
 
 The effect of these two modes of construction was, to give a 
 more spacious cavea and a more spacious orchestra to the 
 Greek theatre than to the Roman ; a scene further removed 
 from the middle of the cavea, and a narrower pulpitum to the 
 proscenium. The intention of their difference is to be found in 
 the different destinations of the two theatres. Among the 
 Greeks the tragic and comic actors only performed on the 
 scene : all other exhibitions took place in the orchestra ; and 
 
325 
 
 hence their theatrical artists were divided into Scenici andThy- 
 melici — the latter term heing derived from the thymele or altar 
 of Bacchus ; which in process of time was often used as syno- 
 nymous with the whole orchestra. The Roman theatres, on the 
 other hand, being chiefly intended for dramatic representations, 
 it was desirable to bring the scene as near as possible to the 
 centre of the cavea ; the orchestra was used only for the move- 
 able seats of privileged spectators, and the cavea seldom ex- 
 ceeded a semicircle. In Roman theatres the height of the pul- 
 pitum above the orchestra was only five feet, that the spectators 
 in that part of the theatre might command a good view of the 
 stage — as in our pit ; in the Greek theatres, there being no 
 spectators in the orchestra, it was ten or twelve feet high *. 
 
 As no science can less bear to be fettered by rules than ar- 
 chitecture, it will not be surprising to find, as we increase our 
 collection of ancient examples, that the speculations of Vitruvius 
 seldom agree with the ancient monuments. His rules, in fact, 
 are rather to be regarded as his own system, than that which was 
 followed by the architects of Greece ; whose genius is in no- 
 thing more remarkable than in the variety which pervaded their 
 designs, according to the circumstances of each particular 
 work ; and in the singular felicity with which they harmonized 
 the several parts of those designs. 
 
 The theatre of Patara may exemplify the rules given by Vi- 
 truvius for the position of the scene in Greek theatres, and for 
 that of the scalse, which determine the dimensions of the cunei : 
 but, like all the other theatres in Asia Minor, it is an excep- 
 tion to his rule for constructing the curve of the orchestra or 
 cavea ; this curve being in all those theatres a segment of one 
 and the same circle, instead of being formed from three cen- 
 tres. 
 
 And even in regard to the position of the scene, the theatre 
 of Patara is subject to the remark, that between the lower seat 
 of the cavea and the orchestra there is a prsecinctio or Siagcvpa f, 
 twelve feet wide, and four feet (not ten or twelve, as he pre- 
 scribes in Greek theatres) in height above the level of the 
 
 * Vitruv. 1. 5. c. 6, 7. 
 
 f The lower B in the plan and section of the theatre of Patara an- 
 nexed. 
 
:m 
 
 orchestra ; which diazoma must be included within the circle of 
 the orchestra, in order to make the scene a tangent to that 
 circle, as the rule of Vitruvius requires. The scene of the the- 
 atre of Myra is still more distant from the cavea. 
 
 It is impossible to determine, without further excavation, 
 whether in any existing theatre the curve of the orchestra at 
 the two ends next the proscenium was formed from three cen- 
 tres as Vitruvius has described ; but in no instance that has yet 
 been remarked are the extremities of the cavea constructed in 
 this manner ; they are either right lines or continuations of the 
 same circle which forms the middle of the cavea. 
 
 The great theatre of Laodiceia * is also an exception to the 
 rules of Vitruvius, or rather it exemplifies a mixture of his Greek 
 and Roman theatre ; for with a cavea, spacious like that of the 
 Greek theatre, it has a Roman scene ; as not only appears 
 from the position of the scene within the curve of the orchestra, 
 but likewise from the great niche in the centre of the scene, 
 which is found also at Hierapolis, and is remarked at Nicopolis 
 of Epirus, and in some other theatres of Roman construction f. 
 The advantage of the Asiatic over the European construc- 
 tion in Greek theatres, consisted only in the increase of capa- 
 city derived from the obliquity of the two ends of the cavea. 
 As the spectators in the upper seats of the two extremities must 
 have had a very imperfect view of the scene, the Asiatic con- 
 struction may perhaps have been adopted to provide accommo- 
 dation for the classes who cared less for the drama than for the 
 dancing and dumb-show of the orchestra : and these classes 
 may perhaps have been more numerous in the Asiatic than in 
 the European cities of Greece. 
 
 In Asia Minor the lower part of the cavea was generally ex- 
 cavated in a hill, and the upper part was built of masonry 
 raised upon arches ; so that there was a direct access from the 
 level of the ground at the back of the theatre into the middle 
 diazoma, either at the two ends of the diazoma, or by arched vo- 
 
 * See Ionian Antiquities, vol. 2. pi. 49. 
 
 f Perhaps the theatre of Laodiceia was accommodated to the Roman 
 mode of construction, when that city became the seat of the Roman go- 
 vernment in Asia, and when the stadium was converted into an amphi- 
 theatre in the Roman fashion. See page 245. 
 
327 
 
 mitories in the intermediate parts of the curve, under the upper 
 division of the cavea. The same mode of construction occurred 
 also -in some of the theatres of European Greece j though in 
 the more ancient theatres of that country it seems to have been 
 the common practice to excavate all the middle part of the ca- 
 vea and even the seats out of the rock. It seldom happened 
 that theatres were constructed in plains, as it added so much 
 to the labour and expense of them : instances, however, exist 
 at Mantineia and Megalopolis. 
 
 As the scene and every part of the theatre relating to the 
 spectacle stood on level ground at the lowest part of the build- 
 ing, it has invariably happened, in all the remaining theatres 
 of Greece and Asia, that the parts belonging to the scene have 
 been more or less buried in their own ruins, and in those of the ca- 
 vea, which rises above them like a crumbling mountain. It is only 
 by excavating, therefore, that we can arrive at an exact knowledge 
 of the construction of that which is the most important part of 
 the Greek theatre : but when circumstances admit of a complete 
 examination of the theatres of Hierapolis, Patara, Laodiceia, 
 Side, of some in Syria, which are in a remarkable state of pre- 
 servation, and of two or three in European Greece, great light 
 may be thrown on many interesting inquiries relating to the an- 
 cient drama. 
 
 I may here take the opportunity of observing, that there are 
 no remains of Greek architecture more illustrative of the ancient 
 state of society in Greece than the theatres. Comparing them 
 with modern works of the same kind, we are astonished at the 
 opulence required to collect the materials of those immense edi- 
 fices, and afterwards to construct them ; as well as at the effect 
 of those customs and institutions, which, in filling the theatre, 
 could inspire such a multitude of citizens with a single sentiment 
 of curiosity, amusement, or political feeling. It may be said that 
 the theatres of Greece are an existing proof of the populous- 
 ness of the states of that country, much more convincing than 
 the arguments of those who have endeavoured to confute the re- 
 ceived opinion on this subject. No Grecian community was com- 
 plete without a theatre. In the principal cities they were from 
 350 to 500 feet in diameter, and capable of containing from eight 
 
328 
 
 or ten to twenty thousand spectators. I have already, in 
 another work \, shown some reasons for believing that the 
 Greeks were indebted for the invention of these buildings to the 
 same city, to which they owed so large a share of their civiliza- 
 tion. The Dionysiac theatre at Athens, in the form in which 
 it was constructed at the time that ./Eschylus brought the drama 
 to perfection, seems to have been the original model which, with 
 some slight variations, was adopted throughout the Grecian 
 states both of Europe and Asia. 
 
 I subjoin the diameters of the principal theatres in existence. 
 They were all measured by Mr. Cockerell, except those marked 
 D. ; which are from the Missions of the Society of Dilettant . 
 All those of Greece Proper I have myself measured ; but the 
 reader will undoubtedly be better satisfied in possessing the 
 measurements of Mr. Cockerell. 
 
 THEATRES OF ASIA MINOR. 
 
 Exterior Interior 
 
 Diameter. Diam. 
 
 Ephesus 660 . 240 
 
 Tralles* . , .540 . 150 
 
 Miletus (D) 472 . 224 
 
 Stratoniceia (D) 390 . 106 
 
 Side 390 . 120 
 
 Sardes* 396 . 162 
 
 Laodiceia (D) 364 . 136 
 
 Myra 360 . 120 
 
 Hierapolis 346 . 100 
 
 Patara 265 . 96 
 
 Teos * (Roman construction) . . . 285 . 70 
 
 Pompeiopolis* (Ditto) 219 . 138 
 
 Limyra 195 . — 
 
 Anemurium (Roman construction) . 197 — 
 
 Selinus in Cilicia 114 . — 
 
 Cnidus (D) about ' . 400 . — 
 
 f Topography of Athens, sect. 4. 
 
 * Those marked * are so much ruined, that it is difficult to procure 
 an exact measurement. 
 
329 
 
 THEATRES IN EUROPEAN GREECE. 
 
 Exterior Interior 
 Diameter. Diam. 
 
 Sparta* 453 . 217 
 
 Near Joannina in Epirus 445 . 121 
 
 Argos* 435 . 217 
 
 Syracusa 342 . 114 
 
 Sicyon* 313 . 100 
 
 Mantineia • 227 . — 
 
 Delus* 175 . — 
 
 Epidaurus* — . 91 
 
 Nicopolis in Epirus (Roman constr.) . 360 . 120 
 
 odeia f. 
 
 Nicopolis 139 . 93 
 
 Messenc (of a singular form, being 1 1 2 feet long) 93 
 
 NOTE TO PAGE 229. 
 
 The reader will perhaps be curious to learn something more 
 of the Latin inscription of Stratoniceia mentioned in the note 
 to page 229 ; which, although it has been more than a century 
 in England, and the greater part of that time in the British 
 Museum, has never yet been published. It consists of a de- 
 cree, very long and wordy, and written in a style strongly 
 indicating a declining Latinity, followed by a list of articles 
 of provision in most common use among the Romans, with 
 prices annexed to each of them. 
 
 The decree makes some allusion to the damages sustained by 
 recent incursions of the Barbarians into the Roman empire, and 
 to its actual pacific state. It contains repeated reflections on 
 the avarice of forestallers, who frustrate the bounty of nature ; 
 refers to the plenty which generally reigns in Asia ; directs that 
 those engaged in the traffic of provisions shall never exceed 
 the subjoined prices in time of scarcity ; and denounces ca- 
 pital punishment against such as shall infringe the decree which 
 
 * See note * in the preceding page. 
 
 f In Asia Minor there still exist Odeia at Laodiceia and Anemurium. 
 
;wo 
 
 js promulgated to the whole world — called our world : the de- 
 cree being as usual in the first person. There is no mention 
 however made of the Emperor's name, but there are some ex- 
 pressions which seem to indicate that his reign had already been 
 of some length. For the following reasons I am inclined to think 
 it was a decree of the Emperor Theodosius. It appears by the 
 tailor's work at the end of the catalogue, that silken garments 
 were in very common use. Now it is known that, as late as 
 the reign of Aurelian, they were still very rare and expensive ; 
 and that their use was confined almost entirely to women *. 
 The only successors of Aurelian, whose length of reign and sta- 
 bility of power were suited to the language of the Inscription, 
 are Diocletian, Constantine, and Theodosius. As Diocletian 
 arrived at the empire only ten years after the death of Aurelian, 
 it cannot be supposed that the use of silk had in his time be- 
 come so common as the Inscription indicates. Constantine 
 chiefly triumphed over his Roman rivals; but the victories of 
 Theodosius over the Goths, who under Valens had overrun all 
 Thrace, were the peculiar pride and characteristic of the reign 
 of Theodosius. Ammianus, who wrote his History in that reign, 
 observes that the use of silken garments, i'ormerlyconfined to the 
 nobility, had then become common among the lower classes f ; 
 a state of customs which appears to be in exact conformity 
 with the prices of the tailors' work in silk in the Inscription, 
 as well as with the classification of those articles of dress among 
 the other garments used by the common people of that age — 
 namely, the rough coat, or birrhus j the caracallis, or hooded 
 cloke, which soon afterwards became the dress of the monks ; 
 the Gallic breeches, and the socks. The late date of the 
 Inscription is shown by its barbarous style, and the use 
 of several words not found in earlier Latin ; but that which 
 declares its age more strongly, perhaps, than any other pecu- 
 liarity, is the very reduced value of the drachma or denarius, 
 
 # Vopisc. in Aurelian. 
 
 •f- Sericum ad usus antehac nobilium nunc ctiam inferiorum sine ulla 
 discretione. Ammian. 1. 23. c. 6. Although silken garments were then 
 so common, Ammianus still describes silk, as Virgil and Pliny had done 
 three centuries earlier, as a sort of woolly substance (lanugo, canities fron- 
 dium^ which was combed from a tree in China. 
 
331 
 
 in its exchange for the necessaries of life. It is true that the 
 prices in the decree are given as a maximum j but the value of 
 the denarius must have very greatly diminished from that which 
 it bore in the two first centuries of the Roman Empire, when 
 butchers' meat was about 2 denarii the pound, and middling 
 wheat from 3 to 6 denarii the modius*, — before, under any cir- 
 cumstances contemplated by the Roman government, it could 
 have been equivalent to an oyster, or the hundredth part of a 
 lean goose. It appears from the coins of the early Byzantine 
 Emperors, that great liberties were at that period taken with the 
 weight of the denarius, and that it varied greatly between the 
 time of Constantine and that of the final division of the Empire; 
 but its diminution of value seems from this inscription to have 
 been much greater than has hitherto been supposed f. 
 
 The Inscription cannot well be referred to a later time than 
 that of Theodosius, as under his sons the Empire was again op- 
 pressed by the Barbarians ; and after the final separation of the 
 Empire, which took place in their reign, the use of the Latin 
 language was gradually laid aside in the acts of government of 
 the Eastern Empire. 
 
 It would be difficult to deduce any inference as to the date 
 of the Inscription from the form of the letters ; more especially 
 as the Harleian MS. of Sherard, in which it is preserved, is only 
 the copy of a copy. The characters seem to have been executed 
 by a Greek engraver, and to have been left unfinished, so that 
 the S resembles a Greek gamma, and the A a lambda. The 
 following is a specimen of the characters, as nearly as they can 
 be represented by printed types. 
 
 ETrEMPERPRAECEPTORMETUriUriTITI 
 
 MUrOFFICIORUMlNUENITUREITEMODE 
 
 KATORPLACElTIQUirCONTRAFORMAM 
 
 rTATUTIIIUIUrCONUIXUrFUERITAUDE 
 
 NTIACAPITALIPERICULOrUBICIETUR 
 
 Et semper praeceptor metus justissimus invenitur esse modera- 
 tor. Placet si quis contra formam statuti hujus convictus fuerit 
 audentia capitali periculo subjicietur. 
 
 * See Arbuthnot on Ancient Weights, &e. 
 f See Koine del'Islc, Metrologie, &c. 
 
332 
 
 The following is the list of provisions with their prices. It is 
 very possible that Mr. W. Bankes may have procured a more 
 complete copy of the Inscription, and a longer list. 
 
 It should be observed that the denomination of coin, here 
 expressed by an asterisk, is in the original denoted by the usual 
 sign of the denarius, namely X with a transverse line, or an 
 asterisk with six points. The sign of quantity here expressed 
 by/*, which nearly resembles the note in the original, is probably 
 S for sextarius, with a transverse line ; but it may be worthy of 
 remark, that this note is not commonly found in ancient manu- 
 scripts like the asterisk for drachma or denarius. 
 
 Conditi itaiy*unum # viginti quatuor (') 
 Apsinthi ital^unum # viginti 
 Rhosati ( 2 ) itaiy*unum # viginti 
 Item olei 
 
 Olei fiuris ( 3 ) ital /unum # viginti quatuor 
 Olei sequentis ital ^unum # viginti qua .... 
 Olei cibari ( 4 ) ital y' unum # duodecim 
 Olei raphanini ( 5 ) ital /* unum # octo 
 Aceti itaiy unum * sex 
 
 Liquaminis (°) primi ital^ unum * se 
 
 Liquaminis secundi ital/' unum # decern 
 Salis F M ( 7 ) unum # centum 
 
 1 i.e. one Italian sextarius cost 24 denarii. The sextarius or sextarium 
 was in general use among the Greeks under the Roman Government. The 
 Greek sextarius contained 15 ounces of oil or 16 of water. Galen deComp. 
 Med. 1. 1. — L. Paetus ap. Graev. Thes. vol. 11. 
 
 2 Conditum, wine mixed with various ingredients ; in the Apsinthium 
 the prevailing ingredient was wormwood, and in the Rhosatum roses. Api- 
 cius, 1. 1, has given us the receipt for making these three mixtures. 
 
 3 (Oleum) quod postmolam primum est, flos/Plin. H. N. 1. 15. c. 6. ed. 
 Harduin. 
 
 4 Cibarium, the most ordinary kind of oil used by soldiers, &c, and 
 made from the refuse of the olives. Columella, 1. 12. c. 50. 
 
 5 Raphaninum, oil of coleseed, or rape. Plin. H. N. 1. 23. C. 49. Dios- 
 cor. 1. 1. c. 41. 
 
 6 Liquamen : this favourite condiment, also called Garum, as having been 
 
 originally obtained from the fish garum, was made by throwing salt on the 
 
 entrails of fish, exposing the mixture to the sun for some time, and then 
 
 separating the liquid part. This liquor was the liquamen : the residue was 
 
 called Alec. Geopon.l. 20. c. ult. Plin. H. N.1.31. c.43. There wereother 
 
 kinds of liquamen less commonly used, which are described by Apicius. 
 e 
 ' M was the usual note for modius or inodium, the dry measure in most 
 
333 
 
 Salis conditi ( 8 ) italicumy unura # o 
 
 Mellis optimi ital /"unum # cu 
 
 Mellis secundi itaiy unum # vig . . . . 
 Mellis foenicini (") itaiy unum # octo 
 
 Item carnis 
 
 Cttrnis porcinae ital po ( l0 ) unum # duodecim 
 
 Carnis bubulse ital po unum * octo 
 
 Carnis caprinae sive vervecinae ital po unum # 
 
 Vulvas (") ital po unum * viginti quattuor 
 Suminis ( 12 ) ital po unum # viginti 
 Ficati ( u ) optimi ital po unum # sedecim 
 Laridi optimi ital po unum # sedecim 
 Pernae optima? petasonis sive Menapicae vel 
 Ceritanae ( 14 ) ital po unum # viginti 
 
 common use in the time of the Roman Empire, from whence the use of 
 the word passed into Italy and France and became the moggio and muid. 
 The sextarius in like manner became the setier. Here appear to be two 
 modia, that for salt preceded by F, and that for grain preceded by K. I 
 am unable to discover the meaning of this distinction. 
 
 8 Sal conditum, salt mixed with drugs of several kinds and used for me- 
 dicinal purposes. Apic. 1. 1. c. 27. 
 
 ' Perhaps mel phcenicinum, the debs or date honey of Egypt and Arabia. 
 
 10 One Italian pound. 
 
 11 Vulva virginis porcellae. Apicius calls it vulva sterilis, to distinguish 
 it from the sumen. For the mode of dressing these two famous dainties 
 see Apicius 1. 7. 
 
 12 Sumen — abdomen suis cum ubere. Optimum uno die post partum. 
 Plin. H. N. 1. 11. c. 84. 
 
 13 Ficatum, in Greek avuwroi, hog's liver enlarged by a particular mode 
 of fatting. The word was originally derived from the fatting of geese with 
 figs for a similar purpose — ficis pastum jecur anserisalbi. Hor. It was said 
 to have been the invention of the first Apicius, who lived in the time of the 
 Republic, and whose name was assumed by some other subsequent pro- 
 fessors of the culinary art. Apicius Coelius, whose work is extant, appears, 
 from the names and descriptions which he gives to some of the dishes or 
 sauces, to hare lived not long after the reign of Elagabulus. See the pre- 
 face to the edition of Apicius, by Dr. Lister, physician to Queen Anne. 
 From ficatum, truKurov, are derived the Italian and modern Greek words 
 fegato, <ruKon, used for liver in general. 
 
 11 Fumosa; cum pede perna?, Hor. Petaso and perna appear, from 
 Athenaeus, to have been synonymous, -rtriurwvo;, riv vigvxv x.u.\ovvt (1. 14. 
 Perna was perhaps more particularly the ham, and petaso every 
 
 21. 
 
 part of the hog similarly cured. Laridum or lardum was the fat part of the 
 
334 
 
 Marsicae ( lft ) ital po unum # viginti 
 
 Adipis recentis ital po unum # duodecim 
 
 Axungiae ital po unum # duodecim 
 
 Ungelhe — quattuor et Aqualiculum ( lfi ) pretioquo distrahitur 
 
 Isicium C 7 ) porcinum unciae unius # duod .... 
 
 lsicia bubula ital po unum # decern 
 
 Lucanicarum ('*) ital po unum # sedecem 
 
 Lucanicarum bubularum ital po uno # dec. . 
 
 Fasionus pastus # ducentis quinquaginta 
 
 Fasionus agrestis # centum viginti quinque 
 
 Fasia pasta po . . . # ducentis 
 
 Fasiana non pasta # centum 
 
 Anser pastus # ducentis 
 
 Anser non pastus # centum 
 
 Pullo . . . . # sexaginta 
 
 Perdix # triginta 
 
 Turtur . . # duodecim 
 Tartar . . # duodecim 
 Turdorum . . # sexaginta 
 Palumb . . . . * viginti 
 Columb .... * viginti quattuor 
 Attagen # viginti 
 
 bacon. Menapica was the ham of Westphalia, Ceritana that of the Cer- 
 dagne in the Pyrenees, the excellence of which is attested by Strabo (p. 162). 
 
 15 Marsicae, sc. pernae. This being of the same price as the two former 
 was probably a foreign ham also ; not from the Marsi of Italy, but from 
 the Marsi near the mouth of the Rhine. 
 
 16 Ungellce — ungulae suum et pedes, Apic. 1. 4. c. 7. Aqualiculum — 
 venter poi cinus ; for the mode of dressing it see Apicius, 1. 7. c. 7. 
 
 17 Apicius has described the mode of making isicia as well of pork as 
 of birds, shell-fish, &c. They consisted of the meat minced with a variety 
 of condiments, and were made either into tessellre, square cakes, or wrapt 
 in a bay leaf; and sometimes they were omentata or inclosed in a membrane 
 like our sausages. It appears from this inscription that iheh common mzo 
 was about an ounce in weight. The Turkish dolma inclosed in a vine leaf 
 seems to be a lineal descendant of the isicium. From salsum isicium is 
 derived the Italian salsiccio, and thence saucisse and sausage. 
 
 18 Lucanicne, sausages of a particular kind, originally from Lucania, which 
 was famous for its pork. Apicius (1. 2. c. 4.) has described the mode of 
 making the Lucanicae. 
 
335 
 
 Anas * cuadraginta 
 Lepus # centum quinquaginta 
 Cunic(ulus) # quadraginta 
 . . pe . . viginti 
 
 quadraginta 
 
 sedecim 
 
 Femina 
 
 Coturnices n # numero ducentis 
 
 Sturni decern # viginti 
 
 Aprunse ital po # sediciin 
 
 Cervinae ital po # duodecim 
 
 Dorcis sive caprae vel dammae ital po duodecim 
 
 Porcinae lactantis # sedicim 
 
 Agnus M po . . . . * duodecim 
 
 Haedus ( 19 ) M po 1 # duodecim 
 
 Sevi ital po 1 # sex 
 
 Butyri ital po 1 * sedecim 
 
 Item pisces 
 
 Piscis aspratilis ( 20 ) marini ital po 1 # viginti quattuor 
 
 Piscis secundi ital po 1 # sedecim 
 
 Piscis fluvialis opt. po 1 # duodecim 
 
 Piscis secundi fluvialis ital po 1 # octo 
 
 Piscisalsi ital po 1 # sex 
 
 Ostrise no centum # centum 
 
 Echini no centum # quinquaginta 
 
 Echini recentis purgati ital/'unum # quadraginta 
 
 Echini salsi ital/'unum # centum 
 
 Sphondili (-') marini no centum # quinquaginta 
 
 Sagenici (--') ital po 1 # duodecim 
 
 19 The Roman mode of dressing all the birds, game, &c. in the prece- 
 ding list may be seen in Apicius. 
 
 80 Pisces aspratiles, quales sunt merulae, scaurus .... De piscibus gene- 
 raliter quales invenias albos carnes habentcs, quod genus sunt aspratiles 
 .... omnem aspratilem piscem, ut sunt lupi, corvi. Plin. Valerian, de Re 
 Med. 1. 5. Fish caught in deep water and near rocky shores. The word 
 aspratilis is not found in authors of a better time, who use saxatilis with 
 the same meaning. See Pliny, Columella. 
 
 81 Sphondili. A pic. 1. 9. c. 14. 
 
 82 Sagenici, from oxywn, whence the English word sein : in Latin it was 
 called eveniculum, and served to catch the small fish eaten only by the 
 
335 
 
 Sardae sive Sardinae po 1 # sedecim 
 
 Item Cardus majores no quinque # decern 
 
 Sequentes no decern 
 
 Intibus optima no decern 
 
 Sequentis no decern 
 
 Malvae maxima? no VI 
 
 Malvae sequentis decern 
 
 Lactucae optima? no V 
 
 Sequentes no decern # quattuor 
 Coliculi optimi no V # quattuor 
 Sequentes noX # quattuor 
 Cuma? (- 3 ) optima; fascem 1 # quinque 
 Porri maximi noX# octo . 
 
 Sequentes no viginti 
 
 Betae maxima no V 
 
 Sequentes no X 
 
 Radices maxima? 
 
 Sequentes 
 
 Rapae maxima? no X 
 
 Sequentes no X 
 
 Ceparum siccarum 
 
 Cepae verdes ( 24 ) 
 
 Sequentes 
 
 Capparis 
 
 Sisinariorum ( 25 ) ital 
 
 Cucurbitae 
 
 Sequentes 
 
 Melopepones 
 
 Sequentes 
 
 Pepones 
 
 Fasiolorum 
 
 Asparagi Hortulani 
 
 common people, or given as food to the choice fish which some of the rich 
 Romans kept in piscinae. See Varrode Re Rust. 1. 3. c. 17. 
 
 2S Cima?. Apic — Cymae. Plin. Columel. The small tender shoots of the 
 cabbage. See Plin. H. N. 1. 19. c. 41. 
 
 24 Here and in two other instances below, we find the beginning of the 
 change of viridis into the Italian verde. 
 
 25 Sisinarii, perhaps the same as Cinarae, artichokes. 
 
337 
 
 Asparagi Agrestes 
 
 Rusci ( a6 ) 
 
 Ciceris 
 
 Fabae virdes 
 
 Fascioli virdes . . , 
 
 .... etiam 
 
 licitum sit 
 
 Frumenti KM 
 
 o 
 
 Hordei K M unum # 
 
 o 
 
 Centenum sive sicale C 27 ) K M unum 
 
 o 
 
 Milipisti K M unum # centum 
 
 ° 
 Mditegri (* 8 ) K M # quinquaginta 
 
 Panicii ( 59 ) K M # quinquaginta 
 
 Speltae .... KM* centum 
 
 Scandulae ( 30 ) sive speltae K M # triginta 
 
 Fabae fressae # centum 
 
 Fabae non fressae ( 31 ) # sexanta .... 
 
 Lenticlae # centum 
 
 Hemlise . . . . # octocenta 
 
 Pisae fractae # centum 
 
 Pisae non fractae ....*= sexacinta 
 
 Ciceris . . . . # centum 
 
 Hervi . . . . # centum 
 
 Aven;c . . . . # triginta 
 
 " Iluscus, iii English, butcher's broom ; it puts forth many tender 
 shoots in the spring, which were eaten like asparagus. Dioscor. 1. 4. c. 146. 
 
 27 Sicale, in French seigle, rye. The name of this grain, written secale, 
 by Pliny, is here in the state of transition to the o-ixaXi;, sigalis, sigalum, &c. 
 of the middle ages. The synonymous Centenum I have not found in any 
 author; it seems to have been derived from the prolific nature of the 
 
 grain, which was supposed to yield a hundred -fold. Secale nascitur 
 
 qualicunque solo cum centesimo grano. Plin. H. N. 1. 1 8. c. 40. 
 
 28 Milii pisti and milii integri formed into single words like Piscisalsi 
 above. 
 
 re Tiie grain still called panico in Italy. 
 
 30 Scandula. Vegetius, 1. 2. c. 23. 
 
 *' Fabas fressa: and fabas non fressa? are expressions of low Latinity for 
 faba: fractal and fabae solids?, as panicii and lenticlae are terms of the 
 same period for panic] and lenticula 1 . 
 
 Z 
 
338 
 
 Foenigraci . . . . # centum 
 
 scripturae versuum no centum 
 
 Tabellanioni in scriptura livelli bel tabulae versibus no 
 
 centum 
 
 Bracario pro excisura et urnatura 
 
 Pro birro qualitatis primae * se 
 
 Pro birro qualitatis secundae # quadra 
 
 Pro Caracalli majori # viginti 
 Pro Caracalli minori # viginti 
 Pro Vracibus # viginti 
 Pro Udonibus # quattuor 
 
 Sarcinatori in beste soubtili replicatorias # sex 
 
 Eidem aperturae cum suvsutura sit olosericae * quinquaginta 
 Eidem aperturae cum subsutura subsericffi (-'•) * triginta 
 Subsuturae in beste grossiori * quattuor 
 
 NOTE TO PAGE 230. 
 Sherard copied the following curious inscription in two places 
 at Mylasa : — 
 
 MAT22X2AO2EKATOMNaTOMBX2MONANE0HKEN 
 Mausolus, who here erects an altar to Hecatomnus, was his 
 eldest son, and his successor in the kingdom of Caria. Mau- 
 solus married his eldest sister Artemisia, who on his death 
 built the celebrated sepulchre at Halicarnassus called Mauso- 
 leum. According to Pliny, Mausolus died in the second year 
 of the 100th Olympiad, or before Christ 355. f He was suc- 
 ceeded in the regal authority by Artemisia, according to a cus- 
 tom which Arrian observes to have been not uncommon in 
 Asia J. Artemisia died before the monument of Mausolus was 
 finished, and was succeeded by Hydrieus the second son of 
 Hecatomnus, and he by his widow and sister Ada. Ada was 
 expelled from Halicarnassus by her brother Pixodarus, the third 
 
 43 Oloseriea, a cloth entirely silken — subserica, that in which the warp 
 only was of silk. For the several articles of dress in this list see the writers 
 de Re Vestiaria in the 6th volume of Grami Thesaurus. 
 
 f Plin. Hist. Nat. 1. 36. c. 4, 6. 
 
 | In the neighbouring province of Lycia, genealogy was reckoned by 
 the female side in preference to the male. Herodot. 1. I. c. 173. 
 
339 
 
 son of Hecatomnus ; who submitted to the Persians, and was 
 succeeded by the Persian satrap Orontobates, who had married 
 his daughter. It was from this Persian that Alexander took 
 Halicarnassus, after an obstinate defence, in the year b.c. 334, 
 when he restored the kingdom of Caria to Ada ; who, on being 
 expelled from the sovereignty by her brother, had remained in 
 possession of Alinda f. 
 
 The reduplication of the sigma in Mavo-trtvXos is found also 
 in other proper names of this period of time. The conversion 
 of N before B into M, was in conformity with a pronunciation 
 which has continued to the present day. Other conversions of a 
 similar kind are often found in inscriptions : see some exam- 
 ples in the Inscriptiones Antiquae of Chishull and of Chandler. 
 
 NOTE TO PAGE 248. 
 
 The following are the two inscriptions mentioned in the text 
 as containing the name of Tralles, and as having been copied 
 by Sherard at Ghiuzel Hissar. 
 
 I. 
 
 2THMA TH2 TEPOT- 
 
 -SiAS KAI 01 4>IA02EBAST0I 
 
 NEOI KAr 01 EN TPAAAE21 
 
 PflMAIOI ETEIMHSAN TIB 
 
 KA nANTXON ETfTTXON 
 
 KOIBIAON STPATHrHSAN- 
 -TA THN NTKTEP1NHN 2TPA- 
 -THriAN AEKAnPfiTETSAN- 
 -TA APrTPOTAMIETSANTA 
 
 EKAANE12ANTA KOTPATO- 
 -PEI2ANTA TfiN PftMAlftN 
 
 2EITX2NH SANTA AnO AlrT- 
 -nTOT KAr EQEPrON nOIHSAN 
 
 TA EIS TON 2 ELTON KAI AONTA 
 
 EI2 TO AHM02I0N XB$KZ NE- 
 -OQOIHSANTA 2TPATHTHSAN- 
 -TA ArOPANOMHSANTA *IAO- 
 
 f Strabo, p. G56. Arrian, 1. 1. c. 23. 
 z 2 
 
340 
 
 -TEIMQ2 ANA0ENTA AE EX THN 
 IAJflN KAI TAS EN TH 0*APIO- 
 
 -UX1AEI MAPMAPINA2 Ti'AllE- 
 
 -ZA .IB 2. . TA12 BA2ES1N B 
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 NOTE TO PAGE 253. 
 
 In the annexed plate are plans, on a small scale, of the thea- 
 tre and palaestra of Hierapolis, from the drawings of Mr. Coc- 
 kerell. I know of only two other palaestrae, or gymnasia f> 
 in a state of preservation sufficient to give any useful informa- 
 tion on the subject of these buildings, whose spacious chambers 
 and massy walls show the importance which was attached to 
 them by the ancients. 
 
 •J- At Alexandria Troas and Ephesus. For their plans see Antiquities 
 of Ionia, part 2, pi. 40, 54. 
 
341 
 
 THE THEATRE OF HIERAPOLIS. 
 
 THE PALESTRA OF HIERAPOLIS. 
 
 ¥ 
 
 Esgzzza 
 
 goo/eel 
 
342 
 
 Near the mineral sources which rise in the centre of the site 
 of Hierapolis, Mr. Cockerell observed the Plutonium or mephi- 
 tic cavern, which eluded the search of Pocoeke and of Chand- 
 ler. Dio accurately remarks that it was situated below the 
 theatre, Strabo says that it was fatal to oxen placed within its 
 influence, and both he and Dio assert that they exposed birds to 
 it, which fell dead immediately. Mr. C. found several small birds 
 lying dead near the grotto ; and though he tried its effects on a 
 fowl for a whole day without any result, he was assured by the 
 inhabitants that it was sometimes fatal to their sheep and oxen, 
 but that it was not always equally dangerous. The ancient au- 
 thors who have mentioned this Plutonium are Strabo (p. 62S.) 
 Pliny (1. 2. c. 95.) Dion Cassius (1. G8. c. 27.) Apuleius (de 
 Mundo),Ammianus (1.23. c. 6.), and Damascius(ap. Photii Bibl. 
 p. 1054.) 
 
 NOTE TO PAGE 259. 
 Pliny (1. 36. c. 21.) says, the temple of Ephesus was built 
 " in solo palustri ne terra? motus sentiret aut hiatus timeret.'' 
 
 NOTE TO PAGE 265. 
 
 Mr. Cockerell has been so kind as to furnish me with the 
 following note on the antiquities of Sardes : — 
 
 " Sardes was magnificently situated on one of the roots of 
 Mount Tmolus, which commands an extensive view to the 
 northward over the valley of the Hermus, and the country be- 
 yond it. To the south of the city, in a small plain watered by 
 the Pactolus, stood the temple, built of coarse whitish marble. 
 The western front was on the bank of the river ; the eastern 
 under the impending heights of the Acropolis. 
 
 " Two columns of the exterior order of the east front, and 
 one column of the portico of the pronaus, are still standing, 
 with their capitals : the two former still support the stone of 
 the architrave, which stretched from the centre of one column 
 to the centre of the other. The columns are buried nearly 
 to half their height in the soil, which has accumulated in the 
 valley since their erection ; chiefly, it is probable, by the de- 
 struction of the hill of the Acropolis, which is continually 
 crumbling, and which presents a most rugged and fantastic 
 
343 
 
 outline. On the edges of its summit the remains of the an- 
 cient walls are still observable in many places. I was told that, 
 four years ago, three other columns of the temple were still 
 standing, and that they were thrown down by the Turks, for 
 the sake of the gold which they expected to find in the joints f. 
 
 11 Besides the three standing columns which 1 have men- 
 tioned, there are truncated portions of four others belonging to 
 the eastern front, and of one belonging to the portico of the 
 pronaus ; together with a part of the wall of the cella. When it 
 is considered that these remains are 25 feet above the pavement, 
 it cannot be doubted that an excavation would expose the great- 
 er part of the building : even now, however, there is sufficient 
 above the soil to give an idea of the dimensions of the tem- 
 ple, and to show that it was one of the most magnificent in 
 Greece ; for though in extent it was inferior to the temples of 
 Juno at Samus, and of Apollo at Branchidae, the proportions of 
 the order are at least equal to those of the former, and exceed 
 those of the latter. The following plan and elevation will illus- 
 trate what I have just stated : the shading expresses those 
 parts which still remain in their places above the soil. 
 
 "The dimensions are as follow : — 
 Diameter of the exterior columns, at about 35 feet F. In. 
 
 below the capital 6 4£ 
 
 Diameter of the exterior columns under the capital 5 6{ 
 
 Diameter of interior columns under the capital . . C 0| 
 Diameter of the same under the caps 5 3 
 
 " The height of the entire column has been assumed from the 
 proportions of those at Branchidae, Miletus, &c. The stone A 
 must have weighed 25 tons, and that above the centre interco- 
 lumnium was still larger. 
 
 " The capital, appeared to me to surpass any specimen of 
 the Ionic I had seen in perfection of design and execution. I 
 suppose the temple to have been an octastyle dipterus, with 
 seventeen columns in the flanks ; though in regard to the num- 
 ber in the flanks, I am more guided by the proportion of the other 
 
 \ Peyssonel, in a rude drawing of the temple made in the year 1750, 
 represents six columns and a part of the cell standing. Three of the co- 
 lumns were surmounted by an entablature. 
 
344 
 
 dipteral temples of the Ionic order than by any proof that can 
 be derived from the ruins in their present state The gradual 
 diminution of the intercolumnia from the centre of the front to 
 the angles, is remarkable, and, 1 believe, without any other ex- 
 ample. The larger intercolumnium in the centre is indeed 
 found in the temple of Diana at Magnesia ; and is recommend- 
 ed by Vitruvius lib. iii. c. 1 1 : the contraction of the interco- 
 lumnia, in the flanks is exemplified in the temple of Sam us. The 
 smaller diameter of the interior columns is not uncommon in 
 Greek temples : the capitals resembled those of the exterior or- 
 der. The Sittings are not continued in any of the columns be- 
 low the capital ; which I conceive to be a proof that this temple, 
 like that of Apollo Didymeus, was never finished. 
 
 "The great height of the architrave, the peculiar style of the 
 design and workmanship, and the difference of intercolumnia 
 in the faces and in the flanks of the peristyle, I cannot but re- 
 gard as tokens of high antiquity ; and perhaps we may consider 
 as no less so the vast size of the stones employed in the archi- 
 trave ; and the circumstance of their being single stones, whereas 
 in the temple of Didyma and in the Parthenon there were two 
 blocks in the same situationf. In subsequent times the du- 
 rability ensured by this massive mode of construction was sa- 
 crificed for appearances, and for a more easy result. 
 
 "The merit of the very ancient architects in overcoming such 
 a difficulty, and the great expense incurred by it, may be illus- 
 trated by the practical observation, that the price of the cubic 
 foot of stone is doubled and trebled, according to size, as well in 
 
 t The reasons which Mr. Cockercll here gives for believing that the 
 temple of Sardes was a building of* very high antiquity, render it probable 
 that it was the work of one of the kings, or perhaps of several successive 
 kings, of the Lydian dynasty ; which began under Gyges in 71,5, B. C, and 
 ended with the capture of Sardes by Cyrus in 545. It was undoubtedly 
 in the same period, when the power and opulence of Samus were at their 
 height, that the magnificent temple of Juno in that island was construct- 
 ed ; and it was probably about the same time that the inhabitants of the 
 little island of iEgina, which was then sufficiently powerful to rival Samus 
 and even Athens, constructed the temple of Jupiter Panellenius. The 
 temple of Sardes was burnt by the Ionians in the year 503. It may have 
 been repaired, but it is not probable that it was entirely rebuilt after that 
 misfortune. 
 
345 
 THE TEMPLE OF CYBEBE AT SARDES 
 O O 
 
 O O 
 
 o o 
 
 o o 
 
 o • 
 
 L 
 
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 "o* 
 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 o o 
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 □ o 
 
 o o 
 
 o o 
 
 o 
 o 
 o 
 
 o 
 
 ^^fi^^^^^^'f^^-^f^ti^.^.i::- I 
 
 the quarrying as in the carriage and setting. Modern architecture 
 has indeed succeeded in producing buildings of immense bulk, 
 but they cannot be kept together without continued repair ; and 
 the triumph is little more than that of balancing a skeleton on its 
 legs. In some late works only, such as the recent artificial 
 docks and basins, have we imitated the solidity of the ancients." 
 
340 
 
 On the north side of the Acropolis of Sardes, overlooking the 
 valley of the Hermus, is a theatre, attached to a stadium : in 
 the manner of which we find several examples in Asia Minor. 
 The stadium is near 1000 feet in length, the theatre near 400 
 in diameter." 
 
 The subjoined plate is intended to show the relative propor- 
 tions of the principal temples of Asia Minor, as well with each 
 other as with the four most celebrated temples of European 
 Greece. All these plans, except the first, are formed from 
 observations made by skilful architects, on the existing ruins of 
 the buildings. 
 
 1. Temple of Diana at Ephesas. — Vitruvius mentions this 
 building as an example of the class of temples which he calls 
 dipterus ; and one of the characters of which, according to him, 
 is, that of having eight columns in front. His words, however, 
 are ambiguous, and I am disposed to think that he alludes, not 
 to the temple which existed in his time, but to the original work 
 of Chersiphron of Cnossus, and his son Metagenes, who were 
 cotemporaries of Theodorus and Rhcecus, the architects of the 
 Heraeum of Samus ; and whose building, after having been en- 
 larged by another architect, was destroyed by fire in the year 
 b.c. 35 G : for it was not until then that the edifice was begun, 
 which, after 220 years employed in its construction, was in 
 perfection in the time of the Roman empire ; when it was no- 
 ticedby Strabo, Pliny, and Vitruvius f. In any case, as the ex- 
 pression of Vitruvius forms part of his absurd classification of 
 temples %, it deserves not much weight in contradiction to the 
 
 f Plin. Hist. Nat. 1. 16. c. 79. 1. 36. c. 21, 56. Strabo, p. 640. Vitruv. 
 praef. in 1. 7. 
 
 \ " Dipteros autem octastylos et pronao et postico, sed circa aedemdu- 
 plices habet ordines columnarum sicut est aedes Quirini Dorica, et Ephe- 
 siac Diana; Ionica a Chersiphrone constituta." Vitr. 1. 3. c. 2. 
 
 Such is his definition of the dipterus which he confines to octastyie tem- 
 ples ; although we find that all the decastyle temples in existence are dipte- 
 ral, that is to say, that they have a double range of columns round the cell. 
 In like manner he defines the peripteri as having six columns in front, 
 though all temples with a greater number of columns in front are in fact 
 peripteral, or having a cell surrounded with columns. Thus also he 
 defines the hypasthri as temples having ten columns in front, though we 
 
347 
 
 description ol the building by Pliny, whose principal data will be 
 found(on the supposition that the temple was decastyle) to agree 
 in a remarkable manner with each other, as well as with some 
 other great examples of the Ionic order. Pliny relates that the 
 temple was 220 feet in front, and 425 long, and that the dia- 
 meter of the columns was one eighth of the height, which was 
 60 feet. The columns, therefore, were 74- feet in diameter j 
 and the intercolumnia of the front, supposing them to have 
 been all equal, were 1 6 feet, or only 9 inches less than the eu- 
 style proportion of Vitruvius $ which is 2^ times the diameter 
 of the column. 
 
 It has been thought that the side of this temple, having been 
 less than double the front, the number of columns on the sides 
 must also have been less than double the number in the fronts. 
 But this is by no means a necessary consequence ; on the con- 
 trary, we find that in the temples of Samus and Branchidae, both 
 of which had one column more in the flank than in the front, 
 the side is less than double the front ; and that the breadth ex- 
 ceeds half the length, even in a greater proportion than it did, 
 according to the numbers of Pliny, in the temple of Ephesus. 
 There is no reason, therefore, why the Ephesian temple, like 
 the temples of the same order, which most nearly approached 
 it in magnitude, namely those of Samus and Branchidae, should 
 not have had 21 columns in the sides. In regard to its total 
 number of columns, which in our copies of Pliny is 1 27, there 
 is evidently some error, as the number could not have been 
 uneven. It is very possible that the early copiers of Pliny 
 made the common oversight of omitting an unit, writing cxxvii. 
 instead of cxxviii. ; for such would have been the number if we 
 suppose that there was a triple row of columns before the ves- 
 tibule of the cell in front, as in the temples of Samus and Sardes, 
 and also at the opposite end, as in the Olympium of Athens ; 
 together with four columns between the Antae at either end of 
 the cella, as the general construction of Greek temples ren- 
 ders highly probable. 
 
 know that the Parthenon and the temple of Delphi, neither of which had 
 so many columns, were hypaethral, or with a part of the cella open to the 
 sky. But, in truth, Vitruvius himself often forgets his own definitions, 
 and uses the Greek terms just mentioned according to their real meaning. 
 
348 
 
 As it cannot be certain whether Pliny refers to the Greek or 
 Roman foot in this example, I have drawn the little plan in the 
 plate by the same scale of English feet used for the other fi- 
 gures. The English foot being somewhat greater than the 
 Roman, and smaller than the Greek, the error must be very 
 trifling, whether Pliny used the Greek or Roman. 
 
 2. Temple of Juno at Samus. — Herodotus has prepared us 
 for the magnificence of this building. He names it, together with 
 the temple of Ephesus, as the most admirable of all the works 
 of the Grecians ; and in another place he calls it the largest 
 temple of which he has any knowledge f. Hence it appears 
 that the Herseum of Samus was larger than the Artemisium of 
 Ephesus as the latter existed in the time of Herodotus. 
 
 Although only one column of the Herseum deprived of its ca- 
 pital is now standing, its plan was ascertained by Mr. Bed- 
 ford, one of the architects who accompanied Sir William Gell 
 in the second Asiatic Mission of the Dilettanti. The length 
 was 34G feet, the breadth 189. It was a decastylus dipterus, 
 had 10 columns in front, 21 on the sides, a triple row in the 
 pronaus, and a double row of four columns between the antse 
 at the entrance of the cella in front. The columns were about 
 7 feet in diameter at the bottom of the shaft, and about 60 feet 
 high. The intercolumniation in the two fronts was 14 feet, 
 in the flank only 10y feet, and in the flank of the pronaus 
 something still less. There was no appearance of fluting in 
 the columns. The material was the white and blueish-gray 
 marble of the island. 
 
 3. Temple of Apollo Didymeus at Branchidce in the Milesia. 
 — Of this building there remain two columns with the archi- 
 trave, still standing : the remainder is an immense mass of ruin. 
 The proportions of the order are more slender than those of 
 Samus and Sardes, their height being 63 feet, with a diameter 
 of 6-|- feet at the base of the shaft. The architrave is lower, 
 and the building much less ancient than those two temples. It 
 was a decastylus dipterus, with 21 columns in the flanks, and 
 4 between the antse of the pronaus : in all 1 12. The fluting 
 
 f Meaning the largest Greek temple • for in the other passage just al- 
 luded to, he names it for the purpose of adding that it was smaller than 
 the labyrinth of Mreris in Egypt. Herod. 1. 2. c. 148. 1. 3. c. 60. 
 
349 
 
 of the columns is finished only in the exterior order ; in the 
 interior it exists only under the capital f. The material of 
 the temple is white marble — in some parts blueish. 
 
 4. Temple of Cijbebe at Sanies. — Of this the foregoing note 
 of Mr. Cockerell, the only person who has measured it with 
 care, has furnished the reader with all that is known. The plan 
 is constructed on the supposition, not yet sufficiently proved, 
 that it had 17 columns on the sides, and not more than a dou- 
 ble row at the back of the cella. Of the other particulars Mr. 
 C.'s measurements leave no doubt. 
 
 5. The Temple of Artemis Leucophryene — which is now a 
 mere heap of ruins, among other remains of the city of Magne- 
 sia on the Mseander. Its material is white marble, not of the 
 purest kind. The length is 198 feet, the breadth 106 ; mea- 
 sured, as usual, on the upper step of the stylobate. There were 
 8 columns in the fronts and 15 in the sides, measuring 4 feet 8 
 inches in diameter at the bottom of the shaft. The number of 
 columns was only 56 ; this temple being the example which 
 Vitruvius has given of the pseudodipterus, a mode of construc- 
 tion by which 38 columns were saved, and a larger space 
 was left for the reception of the people in the peristyle. The 
 central intercolumnium of the temple of Magnesia is found to 
 be three-fourths of a diameter greater than the other interco- 
 lumnia ; and we are informed by Vitruvius that such was exactly 
 the proportion of the central intercolumnium to the others in 
 the eustylus, a disposition so called as being the most harmo- 
 nious mode of proportioning the diameters to the intercolum- 
 nia. The other intercolumnia, however, of the temple of Mag- 
 nesia do not bear so large a proportion to the diameter of the 
 column, as the eustylus required. — Vitruvius informs us that 
 Hermogenes of Alabanda, the architect of the temple of Mag- 
 
 •f The fluting under the capital forming part of the same block as the 
 capital, was executed, together with it, before the column was erected — 
 the remainder of the fluting was the last operation after the columns were 
 erected ; and hence it happens that we so often find the columns of Greek 
 buildings fluted only under the capitals. The time and labour required 
 for the fluting finished with that perfection which the Greeks required, 
 were so great that it was often deferred until political circumstances no lon- 
 ger admitted of its execution ; the temple meantime being complete, with 
 the exception of this ornament. Almost all the great edifices of antiquity 
 attest that such immense undertakings are seldom over finished. 
 
350 
 
 nesia, was the inventor both of the Pseudodipterus and Eu- 
 stylus ; but in regard to the former at least, his merit seems not 
 to have been very great, as we now find from the observations 
 of two architects, Messrs. Harris and Angell, who have lately 
 resided six months at Selinus in Sicily for the purpose of exa- 
 mining the magnificent ruins at that place, which are much 
 more ancient than the time of Hermogenes, that the great tem- 
 ple of Jupiter as well as one of the hexastyles was constructed 
 on the principles of the pseudodipterus. 
 
 6. The Temple of Bacchus at Teos. — The ruins of this build- 
 ing afford only the diameter of the column (about 3 feet 8 
 inches at the base), with a few less important details of the other 
 parts of the construction. But we have some means of judging 
 of the dimensions of the temple, from its being the example 
 of the eustylus given by Vitruvius, who informs us also that 
 it wasahexastylus monopterus f. The columns therefore being 
 3.8 in diameter, and the intercolumniation of the eustylus 
 being 3 diameters in the centre with 2| in the four other in- 
 tercolumnia, the total length of the front must have been about 
 64 feet on the upper step, which is very nearly the breadth of 
 another Ionic hexastyle, namely the temple of Minerva at 
 Priene. If we suppose the number of columns in the sides at 
 Teos to have been the same as at Priene, namely 1 1 , these 
 two temples must have been nearly equal in length as well as 
 in breadth. It seems highly probable that such was the num- 
 ber of columns in the sides at Teos, because Vitruvius, who 
 chiefly extracted his theoretical system from the commentaries 
 of the great architects of the Asiatic temples, prescribes the 
 number of columns in the hexastyle to be not more than 1 1 . 
 One of those Asiatic writers, we know, was Hermogenes the ar- 
 chitect of the temple at Teos ; and he also was the inventor 
 of the eustylus or beautiful proportion, of which this temple 
 was an example J. 
 
 f Vitruv. 1. 3. c. 3. 1. 7. praef. Jocundus, in his edition of Vitruvius, 
 reads octastylus ; but all the best manuscripts have hexastylon or exasty- 
 lon. See Schneider's Note. 
 
 \ It is probable that the observations of Vitruvius on the eustylus and 
 pseudodipterus contain merely the ideas and names of Hermogenes, made 
 into a system ; and that no other examples of these two classes were 
 known to Vitruvius than the temples of Teos and Magnesia. Selinus de- 
 
351 
 
 PLANS OF TEMPLES AT 
 
 1. Ephesus, Ionic. 
 425 feet long, 220 broad. 
 
 2. Samus, Ionic. 
 346 x 189. 
 
 3. Branchid.*:, Ionic. 
 304 x 65. 
 
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 251 x 144. 
 
 5. Magnesia, Ionic. 6. Teos, Ionic. 7. Priene, Ionic. 
 198x105. 122x64. 122x63. 
 
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 Doric. 
 
 358 x 17-'. 
 
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 Doric. 
 358 x 1 64. 
 
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 Corinthian. 
 354x171. 
 
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352 
 
 7. Although the temple of Minerva at Priene seems to have 
 closely resembled that of Bacchus at Teos in the length and 
 breadth, its other proportions were different, the intercolumnia 
 being smaller in proportion to the diameter of the column, 
 which measures four feet and a quarter at the bottom of the 
 shaft. The shaft was 38 feet high and fluted. The material of 
 the temple, as well as of the other buildings of the city, was 
 the stone of the mountain on which it stands— a blue and white 
 marble, not of a very compact texture. 
 
 Vitruvius has not spoken of the temple of Sardes, probably 
 because it was already in ruins in his time. The other six just 
 enumerated are the great examples of the Ionic order to which 
 he has particularly alluded, and which happen also to be the 
 temples of Asiatic Greece of which the existing ruins furnish 
 us with the most satisfactory details. There were other temples 
 of great celebrity in that country ; particularly those of Apollo 
 at Grynium and at Clarus, of Hercules at Erythne, and of 
 Minerva at Phocaea, to which we may add that of Cyzicus de- 
 stroyed by an earthquake in the reign of Antoninus Pius f ; but 
 no remains of these edifices, except that of Clarus, which is 
 stated by Captain Beaufort to have been of the Doric order, 
 have yet been discovered. 
 
 NOTE TO PAGE 268. 
 To the testimony of Livy as to the Phrygius might have 
 been added that of Appian ; but it is evident that in the descrip- 
 tion of the battle of Magnesia both the historians have drawn 
 from the same source, namely Polybius, and Appian is less par- 
 ticular than Livy as to the topography of the position. 
 
 stroyed by the Carthaginians was perhaps in his time nearly in the same 
 shapeless state of ruin that it is now. 
 
 f Plin. H. N. 1. 36. c. 22. Dion. Cass. 1. 70. ad fin. Dio says the co- 
 lumns were Tinroaopyunti ftiv -rdy^o;, vi^o; 2f vrivrnxovra trnyim. iKaffros Tt- 
 Tgxe ftteis, a description which, if true, justifies his assertion, that the tem- 
 ple was the largest in existence. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 AcMONIA, 167 
 
 Adalia, town and port of, 133. 
 The ancient Attaleia, 193. 
 Geographical remarks on the 
 ancient places on the road 
 from Adalia to Shugut, 144- 
 170 
 
 Mgse, or Ayas, site of, 208 
 
 Agameia, town and port of, 276 
 
 Agmonia, 25 note 
 
 Ak -serai, 75 
 
 Ak-shehr, the ancient Julias or 
 Juliopolis, 59 
 
 Alabanda, investigation of the 
 site of, 230-236 
 
 Aladan river, the Scopas of an- 
 cient geographers, 80 
 
 Alara village, 129. Fortified 
 hill of, 130. Probably the 
 ancient Ptolemais, 197 
 
 Alaya, town and port, history 
 and present state of, 12.3, 
 126. Journey thence to Ala- 
 ra, 129 
 
 Aleium Plain, 180, 215 
 
 Alexandria Troas, 273 
 
 Alibey Kiui, village, 95 
 
 Allah-Shehr, 25 
 
 Al tun Tash, village, 139. Route 
 thence to Kutaya, 140 
 
 Aludda, 25 note, 167 
 
 Amanus, Mount, remarks on the 
 passes of, 209, 210 
 
 Amorium, ancient history and 
 site of, 86-88 
 
 Amyzon, ruins of, 237, 238 
 
 Anaxia, 197 
 
 Anazarba, 218 
 
 Anchiale, 179. Historical no- 
 tice of, 214 
 
 Ancyra, 90 note. Various itine- 
 raries to and from that place, 
 72, 73. Probable site, 168, 
 169 
 
 Andabilis, site of, ascertained, 
 74 
 
 Andriace, or Andraki, the port 
 of Myra, 183 
 
 Anemurium, or Anamur, 178, 
 199,200 
 
 Antiocheia of Pisidia, remarks 
 on the Roman road to, from 
 Apameia, 163, 164 
 
 Antiocheia in Cilicia, site of, 
 218. In Caria, 249 
 
 Antiphellus, notice of the ruins 
 of, 127, 185 
 
 Antonine Itinerary, illustrations 
 of, 25 note, 72, 73, 74. Most 
 to be depended on, 7b. Cor- 
 rected, 82 
 
 Apameia Clbotus, summary of 
 ancient evidences for deter- 
 mining the site of, 156-162. 
 Its probable site, 26. Re- 
 marks on the Roman road 
 from Apameia to Antiocheia 
 of Pisidia, 163, 164— toSyn- 
 nada, 164, 165 ; and to Do- 
 rylaeum, 165, 166 
 
 Aperlae, 188 
 
 Aphrodisias, or the citv of Ve- 
 2 A 
 
354 
 
 nus, 204. Its probable site, 
 250 
 
 Apollonia, probable site of, 1 63, 
 164 
 
 Arabissar, the probable site of 
 Alabanda, 233, 234 
 
 Archalla, site of, 65 
 
 Archelaium or Arcelaio, 25 
 
 Archelais, site of, 75. Itinera- 
 ries to and from thence, 73 
 
 Argaeus, Mount, 45 
 
 Argennum, Cape, 263 
 
 Arkhut-khan, 42 
 
 Arsinoe, 178. Its probable site, 
 201, 202 
 
 Arycanda, site of, 187 
 
 Arycandus river, 187 
 
 Ascania,Lake, the modern Bur- 
 dur, 145, 146 
 
 Ascanius, Lake, scenery of, de- 
 scribed, 7, 8 
 
 Asia Minor, physico-geographi- 
 cal structure of the central 
 part of, 51,52,91,92. Il- 
 lustrations of its ancient po- 
 litical and progressive geo- 
 graphy, 51, 53-90, On the 
 ancient places on the south- 
 ern coast of Asia Minor, 1 70- 
 218. Comparative geogra- 
 phy of the western and north- 
 ern parts of Asia Minor, 219- 
 312 
 
 Attaleia, city, notice of, 175. 
 Remarks on its geographical 
 situation, as stated by Strabo, 
 192, 193 
 
 Augae, 197 
 
 Axylus, region of, 65 ; described, 
 66 
 
 Azanitis, district, 1 68 
 
 Baiae, or Bayas, site of, 208 
 Bargylia, site of, 229 
 Beiad, the ancient Beudos Ve- 
 tus, 56 
 
 Beriam-Kalesi, ancient ruins at, 
 128 
 
 Bidjikli, 133, 134 
 
 Bithynia, notice of the principal 
 places in, 307 
 
 Bithynium, site of, 309 
 
 Branchidae, curious inscription 
 in boustrophedon at, 239, 
 240 notes. Proportions of 
 the temple of Apollo Didy- 
 meus at, 348 
 
 Bulwudun, village, notice of, 
 
 37. Journey thence to Ak- 
 
 shehr, ibid. 38-40. Stands on 
 
 the site of the ancient Ho\v- 
 
 foroy, 53 
 
 Burdur, town and salt lake of, 
 137, 138. Road thence to 
 Ketsiburlu described, 138. — 
 The lake of Burdur the Asca- 
 nia of ancient geographers, 
 145,146 
 
 Butshuklu, town, notice of, 135 
 
 Cabalis, 147 
 
 Caballucome, 90 
 
 Cadi, probable site of, 169 
 
 Caesareia, site of, 271 
 
 Caicus river, course of, 269. 
 Notice of principal places in 
 the valley of the Caicus, 269- 
 272 
 
 Calycadnus river, 111. Valley 
 of the Calycadnus, 116 
 
 Cappadocia, one of the prefec- 
 tures of, why called Cilicia, 
 63, 64. Cappadocia Antio- 
 chiana, 65- 
 
 Carallis or Caralleia, site of, 69 
 
 Caramanian mountaineers, con- 
 dition of, 113 
 
 Caria, notice of the principal 
 places in, 229-254 
 
 Carmylessus, 173, 182 
 
 Carura, citv and hot baths of, 
 251 
 
355 
 
 Caryanda, island, now a pen- 
 insula, 22", 228 
 
 Castabala, 64 
 
 Castel Rosso, island, present 
 state of, 127. Inscription 
 found there, 184 note 
 
 Catacombs of Doganlu describ- 
 ed, 22,23,34,35. Remarks 
 on the sculpture thereon, 26- 
 28. And inscriptions, 29, 
 30. One of these catacombs 
 the tomb of Midas, 30-33 
 
 Catarrhactes, river, 159, 175, 
 191 
 
 Cavaliere, Cape, 205 
 
 Caystrus, notice of towns in the 
 valley of the, 256-258 
 
 Cebrenia, site of, 274 
 
 Celaenae, 156, 158 
 
 Celenderis, remains of, describ- 
 ed, 115,116 
 
 Ceryneia, site of, 1 1 S 
 
 Cestrus, river, 175, 194 
 
 Chalcetor, site of, 237 
 
 Charadrus, 177, 199 
 
 Chelidoniae Islands, 174, 185 
 
 Christians of Asia Minor, con- 
 dition of, 7 
 
 Cibyra, site of, 148. Cibyr a mi- 
 nor, vestiges of, noticed, 196 
 
 Cibyratis, district of, 147 
 
 Cilicia and the Cilician Taurus, 
 63, 64. Description of by 
 Ammianus, 31 9. Towns in the 
 district of Cilicia Tracheia, 
 116,117. Strabo's descrip- 
 tion of Cilicia Tracheia (or 
 rugged) and Pedias (or plain ) 
 176-180. Geographical Illus- 
 trations of it, 197-218 
 
 Cissides, promontory of, 182 
 
 Cisthene, island, 173, 184 
 
 Clanudda, 25 note 
 
 Claudiopolis, site ot, 117, 319 
 
 Climax, Mount, passage of, bv 
 Alexander, 174, 175, 190 ' 
 
 Cnidus, ruins and inscription at, 
 
 226 note 
 Colossae, site of, 254, 255 
 Conni, or Conna, 25 note. Pro- 
 bable site of, 1 66 
 Coracesium, historical notice of, 
 
 177, 197, 198 
 Cormasa, 155 
 Corycus, coast of, 174, 189. 
 
 Promontory, 178. Now an 
 
 island, 212. Port, 262, 263 
 Corydalla, 184 
 Cotyaium, 24, 145, 167 
 Cragus, mount, 173, 182, 177. 
 
 199 
 Crambusa, island, 174, 189 
 Cressa, harbour, 222, 223 
 Cretopolis, 149 
 Crusaders, march of, illustrated, 
 
 313-318 
 Cuballum, 89 
 Cyana, 188 
 Cybebe, plan of the tern le of, 
 
 at Sardes, with observations, 
 
 342-346 
 Cybistra, site of, ascertained, 
 
 63 
 Cydnus, river, course of, 214 
 Cydrara, probable site of, 251 
 Cyprus, island, passage to, 1 18. 
 
 Town and port of Tzerina, ib. 
 
 Journey thence to Lefkosia, 
 
 119-121. To Larnaka, 121. 
 
 Return to Tzerina, 122. 
 Cyssus, port, site of, 262, 
 
 263 
 Cyzicus, site of, 260 
 
 Dacibyza, or Aaxi£v&, site of, 
 
 determined, 9 
 Dana, the same as the ancient 
 
 Tyana, 61. Ruins of this 
 
 place, 62 
 D'Anville, mistake of, corrected, 
 
 41, 55 
 Dashashelir, village of, 131 
 2 A 2 
 
356 
 
 Dil, ferry of, 5. This place how 
 formed, 10 
 
 Dinglar, the probable site of the 
 ancient Cela^nae, 156-158 
 
 Diocasareia,probablesiteof, 1 17 
 
 Docimia, 25. Site and quarries 
 of, 54, 55 
 
 Dogan-hissar, district of, 43 
 
 Doganlu, valley, catacomhs of, 
 22, 23, 34, 35. Remarks on 
 the sculpture thereof, 2G-28. 
 And on the inscriptions there- 
 on, 29, 30, 31. Date of the 
 principal monument, 32 
 
 Domhai, valley and town of, 138. 
 The ancient Tabac, 153. Route 
 thence to Sandukli described, 
 139 
 
 Doric Dialect, prevalence of, 
 227, 228, notes 
 
 Dorileo, 25 note 
 
 Doryluum, plain and river of, 
 18, 19,317. Site of this town 
 determined, 19. Remarks on 
 the Roman road thither, from 
 Apameia Cibotus, 165, 166. 
 And from Dorylu um to Phila- 
 delpheia, 167-169 
 
 Draco, river, course of, ascer- 
 tained, 9. Disasters of the 
 first crusaders among its pas- 
 ses, 10 
 
 Edrentis, site of, 272 
 
 Elaussa, 178. Present state of 
 this place, 213 
 
 Emir-dagh, mountainous range 
 of, 66 
 
 Kphesus, temple of Diana at, 
 258. Account of its relative 
 proportions, 346, 347. Why 
 no remains of it are left, 259 
 note 
 
 Epiphaneia, city, site of, 217 
 
 Ergasteria, mines of, 271 
 
 Erkle, the ancient Archalla, 65 
 
 Ermen£k, 1 17 
 
 Ermenek-su river, 1 1 1 
 
 Ersek, 10 
 
 Eski-hissar, 229 
 
 Eski-shehr, town of, 17. Stands 
 on the site of the ancient Do- 
 rylaeum, 1 8 Journey thence 
 to Seid-el-Ghazi, 20 
 
 Etenna, 149 
 
 Etennenses, 149 
 
 Eucarpia, 25, note. Its probable 
 site, 166 
 
 Eumeneia, site of, 156. In- 
 scription found there, 157 note 
 
 Eumenia, or Eumenia Pella, 25 
 
 Euphorbium, 165 
 
 Euromus, site of, 237 
 
 Eurymedon, river, 194 
 
 Euseheia ad Taurum, site of, 61 
 
 Ferry of the Dil, 5 
 Fortifications, Turkish, notice 
 of, 41 
 
 Gags, port, site ot, 185, 186 
 
 Germa, or Yerma, 25 
 
 Germanicopohs, or Germano- 
 polis, probable site of, 310, 
 311 
 
 Ghebse, or Givyza (town), no- 
 tice of, 4, 5. Description of 
 the road thence to Kizder- 
 w£nt, 5-7. Stands on the 
 site of the ancient Dacibyza, 9 
 
 Glaucus, river, 157 
 
 Gulnar, village, 113. Ancient 
 ruins there described, 113, 
 114 
 
 Hadrianopolis, 27 1 . Its proba- 
 ble site, 309 
 
 Hamaxia, 177, 198 
 
 Hamaxitus, site of, 273 
 
 Harpasa, town, probable site of, 
 249 
 
 Harpasus, river, course of, 249 
 
357 
 
 Hazret Mevlana, aturkish saint, 
 tomb of, 50 
 
 Helenopolis, 10, 314, 315 
 
 Heracleia. site of, 237. Ruins 
 of, 238, 239 
 
 Hermus, river, course of, 16*9, 
 266-268. Principal places in 
 the valley of Hermus, 264, 
 265 
 
 Hierapolis, ruins of, 252, 253. 
 Plan of the theatre and pa- 
 laestra of, 34 1 
 
 Hierus, river, 80 
 
 Homer's account of the Grecian 
 encampment against Troy 
 elucidated, 298-302. And of 
 the pursuit of Hector by 
 Achilles, 303-305 
 
 Hy pa-pa, site of, 256 
 
 Ilgun, village, 42. Stands on 
 the site of the ancient Phi- 
 lomelium, 59. Its lake, the 
 Trogitis of Strabo, 69 
 
 Ilistra, 102 
 
 llienses, village of, 275 
 
 Ilium, new, site of, 275 
 
 lnekbazar, the site of the ancient 
 Magnesia, 243-248 
 
 In-6ghi, village, 142. Journey 
 thence to Shughut, 143 
 
 Inscription, near Seid-el-Ghazi, 
 20. On the sculptured rock 
 of Doganlu, 30, 3 1 . At La- 
 dik, 44. At Karaman, 100. 
 At Eumeneia, 157 note. At 
 Castel Rosso, 184 note. In 
 the ruins of Olympus, 186 
 note*. At Rodos, 224 note. At 
 Cnidus, 226 note. OfStrato- 
 niceia, 229,329-331. At My- 
 lasa, 338. In boustrophedon 
 at Branchidie, 239, 240 notes. 
 At Olympia, 240 note, 241 
 note. At Magnesia, 245, 246, 
 notes. At Nysa, 339, 340 
 
 Ionia, notice of the principal 
 
 places on the coast of, 260- 
 
 264 
 Isaklii, district and village of, 
 
 described, 38-40 
 Isiouda, 153 
 Isium, tower of, 187 
 Isnik, or Nica a, present state 
 
 of, 11. Journey thence to 
 
 Lefke, 12 
 Itineraries, ancient, illustrated, 
 
 25 note, 67, 69, 72-74, 76- 
 
 78, 87, 154-170 
 
 Jerusalem Itinerary, illustra- 
 tions of, 72, 73, 74 
 
 Jullae, or Juliopolis, 25 note. Its 
 site ascertained, 59. Origin 
 of its name, 78, 79. Its situ- 
 ation described, 79, 80. Its 
 commercial and political ad- 
 vantages, 81. Its distance 
 from Nicaa, 72. Distance of 
 Ancyra from Juliopolis, ibid. 
 
 Kadiin Kiui, or Kanun-hana, 
 village, 43 
 
 Kakava, 127 
 
 Karaburnu, cape, 196 
 
 Karadagh, or the Black Moun- 
 tain, 45, 95 
 
 Karahissar, the site of the an- 
 cient Cybistra, 63 
 
 Karageli, the ancient Coralis, 
 or Caralis, 69 
 
 Karaman, mountains of, 45. 
 Plain of, 97. The town of 
 Karaman described, 98, 99 
 
 Karamania, description of, trans- 
 lated from Strabo, 173, 180. 
 Illustrations of it, 181-218 
 
 Kassaba, village, described, 9o, 
 96. Journey thence to Ka- 
 raman, 96 
 
 KatrreAc'pSov, island, notice of, 
 127 
 
358 
 
 Keltinderi, ruins of, 115, 116 
 
 Ketsiburlu, 138. The ancient 
 Apollonia probably situated 
 near this place, 163, 164 
 
 KlZuga., notice of, 4, 5, 9 
 
 Kilisa Hissar, or the Castle of 
 Kilisa, 6]. Stands on the 
 site of the ancient Tyana, 
 ibid. Ancient ruins of it, still 
 in existence, 62 
 
 Kirmir, river, the Hierus of 
 ancient geographers, 80 
 
 Kiuk-su, or Sky-blue river, 1 1 1 
 
 Kizderwent, or the pass of the 
 Girls, description of, 6, 7 
 
 Kharadra, 123 
 
 Kodus, river, 169 
 
 Koehler (General), journey of, 
 from Adalia to Shugut, 127- 
 143. Geographical observa- 
 tions on the ancient places 
 occurring in his route, 144- 
 170 
 
 Konia, town, modern state of, 
 46. Interview of the author 
 with the Pasha of, 47, 48. De- 
 scriptionof the place, 49, 50. 
 Journey thence to Tshumra, 
 93, 94 
 
 Kosru Khan, 35. Journey 
 thence to Bulwudun, 36, 37. 
 
 Kutaya,the ancient Cotyaeium, 
 mountain and town of, 145. 
 Journey thence to ln-6ghi, 
 141, 14-2. 
 
 Labranda, investigation of the 
 site of, 230-234 
 
 Ladik-el-Tchaus, 43. Ruins and 
 antiquities there, 44. Coun- 
 try around it described, 43. 
 Stands on the site of Laodi- 
 ceia Combusta, 53 
 
 Laertes, fortress of, 177. Its 
 probable site, 199 
 
 Lagina, 230 
 
 Lakes of the central part of Asia 
 Minor, 52. Of the Forty 
 Martyrs, 59. Salt lake of 
 Tatta, 70. OfBurdur, 137, 
 138 
 
 Laodiceia ad Lycum, remarks on 
 the Roman road from, to 
 Perge, 154, 155 
 
 Laodiceia Combusta, or Laudi- 
 cia Cataceeaumeno, 25 and 
 note. Remains of, 44 
 
 Laranda, 98 
 
 Larnaka, notice of, 122 
 
 Latmic Gulf, 239 
 
 Latmus, ruins of, 238, 239 
 
 Lefke, town, described, 12, 13 
 
 Lefkosia, or Aeuxocria, descrip- 
 tion of, 120, 121 
 
 Libyssa, site of, determined, 9 
 
 Limyra, site of, 1 86 
 
 Limyrus, river, 186, 187 
 
 Loryma, ruins of, 223 
 
 Lycaonia, limits of, 67. Cele- 
 brated for its downs, ibid. 68 
 
 Lyrbe, 149 
 
 Lysinoe, probable site of, 151, 
 152 
 
 Lystra, probable site of, 1 02 
 
 Maeander, river, 158 
 
 Magnesia, site of, 243, 244. 
 Notice of its ruins, 245. Pro- 
 portions of the temple of Arte- 
 mis Leucophryene at, 349, 
 350 
 
 Magydus, 194 
 
 Mallus, city, 180. Site of, 216 
 
 Malsum, village, notice of, 5. 
 Stands on the site of the an- 
 cient Libyssa, 9 
 
 Manlius, the consul, march of, 
 illustrated, 56-58, 89, 90 
 
 Marathesium, probable site of, 
 261 
 
 Marble, Phrygian, notice of, 
 36. And of thatof Synnada, 55 
 
Marmora, sea of, 2 
 
 Marsyas, river, sources of, 159, 
 1 6 1 endnote, 1 62. Why called 
 Catarrhactes, 159. Another 
 Marsyas. The sameasthe Tshi- 
 na of modern times, 234-236 
 
 Megarsus, city, site of, 216 
 
 Megiste, island, 184 
 
 Melas, river, 176, 196, 206 
 
 Men avgat, town, notice of, 130, 
 131 
 
 Mcndere, river, 139. A branch 
 of the Meander, 153, 154, 164 
 
 Midaium, 24, 25 
 
 Midas, tomb of, ascertained, 
 31-33 
 
 Milyas, 147 
 
 Mopsucrene, 74 
 
 Mopsuestia, 1 80. Historical 
 notice of, 2 1 7 
 
 Mout, town and territory of, 
 described, 107-109,319. Ru- 
 ins in its vicinity, 106. Its 
 cemetery, 109. Journey thence 
 to Sheikh Amur, 110-112 
 
 Mylae, cape, 205 
 
 Mylasa, 230. Copy of an anci- 
 ent inscription there, 338 
 
 Myndus, site of, 228 
 
 Myra, 173. Ruins of, 183. 
 Plan of its theatre, 321 
 
 Nagidus, historical notice and 
 
 probable site of, 200, 201 
 Nacoleia, site of, determined, 
 24, 26. Notice of this place, 
 24 note 
 Neapolis, probable site of, 26 1 
 Nephelis, promontory, 199,200 
 Nicrea, ruins of, 10, 11. Di- 
 stance thence to Juliopolis, 72 
 Nysa, site of, 248. Copies of 
 ancient inscriptions found 
 there, 3 C ;9, 340 
 
 Obelisk of C. Cassius Philiscus,8 
 Obrimas, river, 153, 154, 164 
 
 Olbasa, site of, 117 
 
 Olbe, 320 
 
 Olbia, 175. Conjectures on its 
 
 site, 190, 191, 192 
 Olympia, copy of inscription 
 
 found at, 240, 241, notes 
 Olympus, site of, 189. Copy of 
 
 an inscription found there, 
 
 186 note * 
 Orcaoryci, 88, 89 
 Orchestra of the Greek theatre, 
 
 construction of, 322 
 Orcistus, notice of, 7 1 
 Orthography, Turkish, remarks 
 
 on, 3 note*. And on the 
 
 modern Greek orthography, 4 
 
 note 
 Osman, tomb of, 15 
 
 Pala stra of Hierapolis, plan of, 
 341 
 
 Pamphylia, scenery of, descri- 
 bed, 131-133 
 
 Pandikhi, or Ha.vrl-xj.ov, village, 
 3, 8 
 
 Panionium, probable site of, 
 260, 261 
 
 Paphlagonia, notice of the prin- 
 cipal places in, 308-312 
 
 Parnassus, distance from An- 
 cyra to, 72. And from Par- 
 nassus to Archelais, 73 
 
 Pastures of the central part of 
 Asia Minor, 53 
 
 Patara, historical notice of, 1 82, 
 183. Theatre of, 320. Plan 
 of it, 321 
 
 Pelasgi, the common source o. 
 the Etruscans and Greeks, 
 29, note. Their architectu- 
 ral skill, ibid. 
 
 Persea of the Rhodii, historical 
 notice of, 181. Strabo's Ac- 
 scription of it, 221, 222. Il- 
 lustrations of it, 222-226 
 
 Pergamum, ruins of, 266 
 
 Perge, illustration of the Roman 
 
360 
 
 road to, from Laodiceia ad 
 Lycum, 154, 155 
 
 Pessinus, 25. Examination of 
 its site, 82-86 
 
 Peutinger Itinerary, or table, 
 illustrations of, 25 note, 69, 
 72, 73. Particularly of its 
 routes across Mount Taurus, 
 76-78, 87. From Laodiceia 
 ad Lycum to Perge, 154, 
 155. From Apameia to An- 
 tiocheia of Pisidia, 156-161. 
 From Apameia to Synnada, 
 164, 165. From Apameia 
 to Dorybrum, 165-166. 
 From Dorylrt'um to Philadel- 
 phia, 167-1/0 
 
 Phanse, port, site of, 264 
 
 Phaselis, 175, 190 
 
 Philadelphia, 25. Its probable 
 site, 1 17 
 
 Philomelium, site of, ascertained, 
 58, 59 
 
 Philomelo, 25 note 
 
 Phrygia, notices of the ancient 
 history of, 32, 33. Magnifi- 
 cent remains of ancient Phry- 
 gian art, described, 29-32, 
 33, 34. Topography of Phry- 
 gia Epictetus, 168, 169 
 
 Pityussa, island, 209 
 
 Poecile, rock, 178. Ancient 
 ruins there, 209, 210 
 
 UoXvSorbv, site of, 53 
 
 Pompeiopolis of Cilicia, histori- 
 cal notice of, 213, 214. 
 Pompeipolis of Paphlagonia, 
 its probable site, 310 
 
 Posideium, cape, 263 
 
 Potamio. site of 310 
 
 Prices of various commodities, 
 as fixed by one of the Roman 
 Emperors, table of, with il- 
 lustrative remarks, 332-338 
 
 Priene,proportions of the temple 
 of Bacchus at, 352 
 
 Prince's Islands, description of/2 
 
 Ptolemais, 1/6 
 Pydnae, 182 
 
 Pygela, probable site of, 26 1 
 Pylae Cilicue, 62 
 Pyramus, river, 179. Course 
 of, 215 
 
 Rhodian Colonies, notice of, 
 225, 226 
 
 Rhodiopolis, 184 
 
 Rhoeteium, probable site of, 
 275 
 
 Rhoge, island, 184 
 
 Rhope, island, 184 
 
 Rodos, ancient inscription at, 
 224 note 
 
 Ruins of Nicaea described, 10, 
 11. At Besh-Kardash, 17. 
 At Ladik, (Laodiceia Com- 
 busta,) 44. At Kilisa Hissar, 
 (the ancient Tyana,) 62. In 
 the vicinity of Kassaba, 95. 
 Of ancient Derbe, 101. At 
 Mout, 106. Of Celenderis, 
 115, 116. At Kakava, 127. 
 Of Antiphcllus, ibid. Of Tel- 
 missus, 128. Of Assus, ibid. 
 At Adalia, 133. Between 
 Bidjikli and Karabuniir Kiui, 
 134. Of Patara, 182. Of 
 Mvra and Andriace, 183. Of 
 Elaeussa, 213. Of Pompei- 
 opolis, 213. Of Amyzon, 
 237, 238. Of Latmus, or 
 Heracleia, 238. Of Priene 
 and Branchidse, 239, 240, 
 notes. Of Magnesia, 247. 
 Of Tralles, 246, 247. Of 
 Nysa, 248. Of Laodiceia, 
 
 25!, 252. 
 
 r\e u: P ,. n ~~i: 
 
 Hierapclis, 
 
 253. Of Sardes, 265, 342- 
 346. OfPergamum, 266 
 
 Sagalassus, or Selgessus, pro- 
 bable site of, 150 
 Sakaria, river, 1 2 
 Sandukli, 139 
 
361 
 
 Samus, proportions of the tem- 
 ple of Juno at, 548 
 
 Sangarius, river, celebrated for 
 its fish, 66 note * 
 
 Sardes, ruins of, 265. De- 
 scribed, 342-346 
 
 Saporda, 149 
 
 Sarpedonia, promontory of, 203, 
 204 
 
 Sarus, or Sihun, river, 215 
 
 Scamander,river,probable course 
 of, 290 
 
 Scamandria,probable site of,278 
 
 Scopas, river, 80 
 
 Scutarium, site of, determined, 8 
 
 Seid-el-Ghazi, village, 21. Co- 
 py of an ancient inscription in 
 its vicinity, 20. Description 
 of ancient catacombs near it, 
 22, 23 
 
 Sheikh Amur, village, 1 13. Jour- 
 ney thence to Gulnar, 113- 
 115 
 
 Shugut, town, described, 15, 
 16. Journey thence to Eski- 
 Shehr, 17 
 
 Siberis river, 80 
 
 Side, 176. Its present state, 
 195 
 
 Siderus, cape and harbour of, 
 
 . 189 
 
 Sigeium, site of, 276 
 
 Simena, site of, 188 
 
 Sinda, 152 
 
 Sitshanli, 139 
 
 Soli, city, 179 
 
 Solyma, Mount, 174, 189 
 
 Stadiasmus, or Periplus of Asia 
 Minor, illustrations of, 181, 
 182, 185-188, 191-201,202- 
 218 
 
 Stavros, 131 
 
 Strabo's description of Karama- 
 nia translated, 173-180. Ge- 
 ographical illustrations of it, 
 181-218 
 
 Stratoniceia, site of, 229-230. 
 Different names of, 235 and 
 note t- Ancient inscription 
 of, illustrated, 329-331 
 
 Sultanhissar, the site of the an- 
 cient Nysa, 248 
 
 Surigis, or Turkish postillions, 
 costume of, 38 
 
 Syedra, 177, 198 
 
 Synaus, probable site of, 169 
 
 Synnada, 25. Its site ascertain- 
 ed, 54-58. Remarks on the 
 Roman road to, from Antio- 
 cheia of Pisidia, 164, 165 
 
 Tabs, probable site of, 153 
 
 Ta^vov lisSlov, 1 53 
 
 Tatta, salt lake of, 70 
 
 Taurus, Mount, passage over, 
 into the valley of Calycadnus, 
 104-106-112 
 
 Tavium, probable site of, 31 1 
 
 Telmissus, 128. Theatre of, 320 
 
 Temple of Cybebe, at Sardis, de- 
 scription and plan of, 342- 
 346. Account of the relative 
 proportions of the principal 
 temples of Asia Minor, 346- 
 350. Plans of various ancient 
 temples, 351 
 
 Teos, proportions of the temple 
 of Bacchus at, 350 
 
 Termessus, ruins of, 146. Pas- 
 ses of, 147 
 
 Theatres of Patara and Myra, 
 plans of, 521. Points of dif- 
 ference between them and the 
 theatres of European Greece, 
 320,322. Plan and construc- 
 tion of a Roman theatre ac- 
 cording to Vitruvius, 323, 
 324. Construction of the 
 orchestra of the Greek theatre 
 according to him, 324, 325. 
 Advantage of the Asiatic over 
 the Greek theatres, 326, 327. 
 
362 
 
 Diameters of the principal an- 
 cient theatres in existence, in 
 Asia Minor, 328. And in Eu- 
 ropean Greece, 329. Plan of 
 the theatre of Hierapolis, 341 
 
 Themisonium, 1 55 
 
 Tolistobogii, 89, 90 
 
 Tolistochora, orTolosocorio, site 
 of, 90 
 
 Tomb of Midas, 31-34. Of 
 Hazret Mevlana, a Turkish 
 saint, 50 
 
 Tracheiotis, or Cilicia Tracheia, 
 notice of ancient towns in, 
 116, 117 
 
 Tralles, site of, 243. Notice of 
 its ruins, 246,247 
 
 Travelling, modern Turkish, de- 
 scribed, 3, 4, 104 
 
 Tripolis, notice of, 254 
 
 Troas, region of, 273. Notice 
 of remarkable places in, 273- 
 306 
 
 Troy, examination of the sup- 
 posed site of, 279-305 
 
 Tshaltigshi, village, 136. Route 
 thence to Burdur described, 
 137 
 
 Tshina, river, course and sour- 
 
 ces of, 234, 235 
 Tshumra, village, 94. Journey 
 
 thence to Kassaba, 94, 95 
 Tyre, probably the site of Cays- 
 
 trus, 257 
 Tzerina, town and port of, 1 1 8, 
 
 119 
 
 Vezir Khan, village, 13. Jour- 
 ney thence to Shugut, 14 
 
 Weather, state of, in Asia Mi- 
 nor, 6 
 
 Xenagoras, islands of, 184 
 Xenophon's account of the re- 
 treat of the ten thousand 
 Greeks, remarks on the geo- 
 graphical difficulties and dis- 
 crepancies in, 60, 61 
 Xerigordus, castle of, 10, 314 
 
 Yerma, the site of the ancient 
 
 Germa, 70, 7 1 
 Yorgan-Ladik, 43 
 
 Zephyrium, cape.. 179, 214 
 
 FINIS. 
 
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 Shoe- Lane, London. 
 
The 1 2lBt|>XMJ from 
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 SUMMITS of MTIDA. 
 
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