MONASTIC AND BARONIAL REMAINS, WITH OTHER INTERESTING FRAGMENTS OF ANTIQUITY, Icttglattif, Wl%lt$, anil Scotland ILLUSTRATED BY UPWARDS OF ONE HUNDRED PLATES. BY G. J. PARKYNS, ESQ. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON: PRINTED FOR LONGMAN, HURST, REES, ORME, AND BROWN, PATERNOSTER- ROW. 1816. Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2014 http://archive.org/details/monasticbaronial01park ADVERTISEMENT. The title and general character of the present work will at once preclude any expectation that the author should be required to enter into a close investigation of the antiquities herein delineated, which are executed with a fidelity that has long since obtained a flatter- ing degree of public favour. Whatever literary illustrations therefore oc- cur, must be considered as entirely subordinate to the efforts of the pencil. To exhibit to the historian and antiquary a sketch of those mo- nastic, castellated, and other remains, neces- sarily forming objects of their curiosity, as they are or as they were ; to assist in preserving or elucidating those exquisite monuments of ages long since passed away, thereby conveying to vi a polished people a just sense of the religious, civil, and military talents, as also of the splen- dour of their ancestors ; and at the same time to offer an interesting pocket companion to the amateur, or the tourist, are the entire motives of the author. Of the origin and progress of the undertaking a variety of circumstances render some account necessary. An early intimacy with the late Captain Grose, arising from a similarity of ideas, ma- tured into friendship whilst the regiments, to which the author and he respecti vely belonged, were encamped on the same ground, towards the conclusion of the war in 1782, afterwards procured for him an acquaintance with Mr. James Moore, a gentleman whose talents, as an amateur draughtsman, claimed every considera- tion, and whose abilities at length rivetted the attention of the author to these subjects. Ere the first named celebrated and excellent man had completed his great work of Antiquities, he paid the debt of nature in Ireland. After his de- cease, being urged by their mutual friend, who vii made an offer of an extensive collection of sketches, taken by himself in various summer excursions, and assured of the valuable aid of Mr. Caley towards obtaining the requisite de- scriptions — for whose solicitude the utmost ac- knowledgments are due — the present writer was induced to undertake a publication somewhat similar to Mr. Grose's, but on a smaller scale ; of which a commencing volume was published in the year 1793, under the title of Monastic Remains, &c. The success attending this experiment was more than commensurate with the most san- guine wishes of its friends : the marked appro- bation of it by persons of taste, and the rapid sale of the edition, the major part being dis- posed of in the short space of four months, even without an advertisement, together with assist- ance, extensively and importantly increased, in- duced the author to proceed, with the intention of yearly preparing a volume for the press : cir- cumstances, however, unexpectedly arose, be- fore the second was completed, to retard its then viii continuation ; partly owing to a fire at the copper-plate printer's, which destroyed a con- siderable number of impressions, and many of the plates, and also partly to a sudden call to North America, where he was some years detained, endeavouring to settle the titles of considerable tracts of land he had unfortunate- ly been persuaded to purchase in Europe. During this suspension an unhandsome at- tempt was made to produce little less than the piracy of it : several of the principal subjects were copied, but in general in so indifferent a manner as not to claim much consideration. Had it rested on the merits of these several copies, it might not have been so bad ; but with an audacity scarcely paralleled, the indivi- dual endeavoured to wrest from the memory of the author's late friend the title of origina- lity. Such, together with a certain careless- ness in the execution, and a flagrant want of fidelity, as is instanced in the case of St. Dog- mail's Priory, where the object is delineated precisely the reverse of what it appears in nature, deserved a severe reprehension, which / ix surely was not lessened from the publication in which these views appeared taking place after the author's return to Great Britain, when it was well known he had resumed the work, and was prosecuting his favourite pursuit ; for its abandonment never, even for a moment, had entered into his imagination. The termination of the business, which hitherto has occupied him so as to retard the appearance of the second edition and continuation, now permits its being proceeded with, and the result is be- fore the public. The volume formerly ushered to the world being merely an experiment, the objects con- tained in it were fortuitously selected ; in the present, which becomes a new work, it will be considerably extended : the first of these vo- lumes, as originally proposed, is still confined to England and Wales ; the second embraces many interesting objects in North Britain. Any apology for a subject, which, as the ve- nerable Camden observes, never can be con- sidered without dignity ; and which, he adds, offers sweet food for noble minds, would, in this brief introductory advertisement, be at once ridiculous and impertinent. " Cast back thine eye, and ponder upon all, Which in her ample bosom, the vast Earth Enfolds : There shalt thou see the fatal scythe Of Time mow all before it, like the grass Of spring j shalt see the temples, palaces, The pride of Empire, and the wealth of Kings, From their foundations rock, and nought remain Of state, or city, once renown'd in fame, Save the faint rumour, that it once had been." Bertrand Collier, INDEX TO THE FIRST VOLUME. (Alphabetically arranged.) Page Abbotsbury, St. Catharine's Chapel, Dorsetshire . 39 Agatha's, St. Abbey, Yorkshire . . .63 Basingstoke, Holy Ghost Chapel, Hants. . . 61 Basingwerk Abbey, Flintshire . . .51 Bayham Abbey, Sussex . . .89 Biliegh Abbey, Essex . . . • 99 Binham Priory . . . . .75 Bishop's Waltham, Hampshire . . .105 Brougham Castle, Westmoreland . . .21 Buildwas Abbey, Shropshire . . .85 Byland Abbey, Yorkshire . . . .37 Caernarvon Castle, Eagle Tower, Caernarvonshire 55 Caldecot Castle, Monmouthshire . . . 9 Cerne Abbey, Dorsetshire • . . .65 Chepstow Castle, Monmouthshire . . .67 Cockermouth Castle, Cumberland . . .19 Colchester Castle, Essex . . . .59 Corfe Castle, Dorsetshire .... 7 Dogmael's, St. Priory, Pembrokeshire . . 29 Dover Roman Tower, Kent . . .33 Ewenny Priory, Glamorganshire . . .87 Flint ^Castle, Flintshire . . . . *79 Framlingham Castle, Suffolk . . .31 xii INDEX. Page Haverfordwest Priory, Pembrokeshire . . 25 Helmsley Castle, Yorkshire . . . *103 Kenil worth Castle, Warwickshire . . .69 Kidwelly Castle, Caermarthenshire . . *gi Kimmer Abbey, Merionethshire . . .73 Kirkham Priory, Yorkshire . . • '77 Leiston Abbey, Suffolk .... 3 Llawhaiden Castle, Pembrokeshire . . .23 Ludlow Castle, Shropshire . . . .81 Mettingham Castle, Suffolk . . .47 Milton Abbey, Dorsetshire . . .53 Minster Lovel Priory, Oxfordshire . . 27 Montgomery Castle, Montgomeryshire . . *57 Netley Abbey, Hampshire ... 5 Newark Priory, Surry . . . .41 Newport Castle, Pembrokeshire . . .35 Okehampton Castle, Devonshire . . 45 Oystermouth Castle, Glamorganshire . . *Q3 Pembroke Castle, Pembrokeshire . .119 Penrith Castle, Cumberland . . .11 Ragland Castle, Monmouthshire . . .97 Rieval Abbey, Yorkshire . • . .13 Rumborough Priory, Suffolk . . .17 Tinmouth Priory, Northumberland . . 49 Tunbridge Castle, Kent .... *83 Walsingham Chapel, Norfolk ... 1 Waverley Abbey, Surry .... 101 Wenlock Abbey, Shropshire . . .15 Westham Abbey Gate, Essex . . .115 White Castle, Monmouthshire • . .71 Winchelsea Gateway, Sussex . . .43 Wingfield Castle, Suffolk . . . .113 Worksop Priory, Nottinghamshire . . .109 The Publishers having been disappointed of Plates for the sub- jects marked *, it is their intention to deliver them hereafter to the purchasers of the work at a moderate charge. MONASTIC AND BARONIAL REMAINS, WALSINGHAM CHAPEL, NORFOLK. This place was once famous throughout England for pilgrimages to the Blessed Virgin, at a monastery built here by Richolde, a noble widow lady of the manor, about the time of Edward the Confessor, and four hun- dred years before the dissolution. Whoever had not made a visit and an offering to the Blessed Virgin of this place, was looked upon as impious and irreligious. Erasmus (who was an eye-witness) informs us, that Walsingham was almost wholly maintained by the great resort of travellers, and that the college had scarcely any other revenues, besides the offerings made to the Blessed Virgin. The church was splendid and beautiful, wherein was a small chapel of wood, into which the pilgrims were admitted, on each side, at a narrow door. There was VOL. I. B MONASTIC REMAINS little light visible, but from wax tapers, which had a very grateful smell ; and, as he relates, inwardly it was bright and shining, covered over with jewels, gold, and silver. All that now remains of the famous chapel of Wal- singham, is one grand arch, but of such beauty as to con- vey a fine idea of its former splendour ; it stands in the spacious garden of Mr. Warner; and walks in every direction to it are formed by avenues of trees and shrubs. An elegant oval window remains above the grand arch, the height of which to the centre is thirty-one yards. The wishing wells still remain near this arch; they are two circular stone pits, filled with water, inclosed within a square wall, where the pilgrims used to kneel and throw in a piece of gold, whilst they prayed for the accomplishment of their wishes. The arch is ornamented with a profusion of Gothic niches, and ornaments ; the refectory is converted into a barn, and forms a pleasing subject for the pencil ; a curious gateway in the street of Walsingham, leading to these ve- nerable ruins, still remains, through which the arch appears a striking and singular object # . In the town are the ruins of a priory, and four miles hence is the abbey church of Binham, with a curious front. This View was taken September 2, 1790. * It may not be improper to mention that Walsingham has been made the subject of several beautiful ballads, particularly that of " Gentle Herds- " man, tell to me," printed by Bishop Percy, in his Reliques of Ancient Poetry. AND ANCIENT CASTLES. LEISTON ABBEY, SUFFOLK. Built 1182, by Ranulph de Glanville, Lord Chief Justice of England : but the first habitation being near the sea, and inconvenient, Robert de Ufford, Earl of Suffolk, about 1363, erected a new abbey at a small distance; which was consumed by fire before 1389. It was, however, rebuilt, and continued in a flourishing state till the general dissolution ; the old abbey likewise remained till that time, and had some religious in it. Both the new and old house were dedicated to the Blessed Virgin. The ruins stand in an open country, about four miles from Saxmundham, and have an unfavourable appearance at a distance, but, on nearer inspection, many picturesque parts are to be seen. The church has been very sub- stantial, but is broken into detached masses, except on the side here shewn, where the lateral aisles are divided by the elegant lofty window of the transept. These aisles are of great service to the farmer who lives adjoining the abbey (in a house built with its ruins), forming a ma- gazine for his grain ; other parts are converted into stables. b 2 4 MONASTIC REMAINS The west end is curiously ornamented with Gothic arches, of free-stone, neatly inlaid in flint, agreeably to the custom of this county, and of Norfolk. A fine tower, belonging to the transept, is seen to great advantage from a square area, leading to the apartments of the convent, now an orchard. The order of this abbey was that of Premonstratensian canons. Before the erection of the new abbey, viz. in the 6 Edward II. A. D. 1312, the abbot obtained a charter for a market and fair here; but both have been long disused. In the new abbey, at the dissolution there re- mained, according to some accounts, fifteen monks: but Willis, in his History of Abbeys, says there were eighteen, besides the abbot. This View was taken August 28, 1790. ■ AND ANCIENT CASTLES. 5 NETLEY ABBEY, HAMPSHIRE. Founded, according to general tradition, by King Henry III. A. D. 1239, and to this opinion Bishop Tanner subscribes ; but Godwin, in his Life of Peter de Rupibus, Bishop of Winchester, attributes the foundation to him, as does also Leland. He probably began this monastery, but having died July 5, 1238, it is not likely that he put the finishing hand to the work. Neither the possessions of this abbey, nor the number of monks it contained, were very considerable ; for its value, at the time of its dissolution, did not amount to 2001. and there were only an abbot and twelve monks; the former cir- cumstance occasioned it to be included in the list of those monasteries dissolved by the Act 27 Henry VIII. and in the following year the site thereof was granted to Sir William Paulet. The beautiful remains of this abbey are situated near the Southampton river, and about three miles from that town, surrounded by well-wooded and gently rising grounds. Considerable vestigia of most of the apartments belonging to this religious foundation still exist : but the 6 MONASTIC REMAINS church exhibits melancholy picture of desolation, not an arch or pillar of the nave remaining entire. The east window, richly ornamented, contains an elegant circular compartment ; the west end is terminated by a lofty window, of which the arch only remains, richly mantled with ivy; the space between them is choaked up by heaps of ruins, overgrown with moss and briars. The south transept, here represented, is almost perfect, the roof excepted, which must formerly have been arched very curiously, as appears from a small fragment still in existence, though in imminent danger of falling. Perhaps no ruin in this kingdom has had so many fashionable visitors, or learned investigators, within its walls, or has employed the pencils of so many artists. This View was taken August 2, 179 1. / / AND ANCIENT CASTLES. 7 CORFE CASTLE, DORSETSHIRE. This castle is upwards of eight hundred years old, and is generally supposed to have been built by Edgar ; but this is only conjecture ; that King resided here. He left it to Elfrida his wife; who, to make an opening for the advancement of her second son to the throne, caused King Edward, her son-in-law, to be stabbed by an assassin whilst drinking a cup of wine ; this was done during the time that King paid her a hasty visit at her castle, after hunt- ing in this neighbourhood: hence he obtained the ap- pellation of Martyr. This place was considered of such importance, that it was the third which Simon Montfort Earl of Leicester required to be delivered up by King Henry III. after he had taken him at the battle of Lewes, during his disputes with his Barons, anno 1264. In 1327, King Edward II. after being deposed, was a short time confined in Corfe Castle, upon his removal from Kenil worth, and a little before his tragical death in Berkeley Castle. In 1643, it was bravely defended for King Charles I. by the lady of Lord Chief Justice Bankes, the then owner, in 8 MONASTIC REMAINS his absence, whose garrison never exceeded forty men ; and, although in want of provisions and ammunition, they are said to have repulsed the enemy three times before they were relieved by the Earl of Caernarvon. In 1645 it was again attacked and relieved ; but was taken soon after by treachery, and a great part of it blown up by order of the Parliament. Corfe Castle stands on a very high hill, four miles from Wareham ; at a distance, its towering keep rises magnifi- cently between two neighbouring hills, of a still greater elevation ; on a near advance, nothing finer can be con- ceived than when the whole view bursts at once on the sight. The entrance is from the town over a bridge of three lofty elliptic arches, which lead into a large area, bounded by walls with round towers at convenient dis- tances, several of which incline, from the effects of gun- powder. A second bridge and gateway leads to the keep, which is here represented ; this entrance has been defend- ed by a ditch and portcullis. This castle belongs to Henry Bankes, Esq. of Kingston Hall, a descendant of the above mentioned owner. This Viezo was taken July 30, 1791. AND ANCIENT CASTLES. CALDECOT CASTLE, MONMOUTHSHIRE. Camden says, " Near Caldecot, where the river Throgy " enters the Severn sea, I observed the wall of a castle u which formerly belonged to the constable of England, " and was held by the service of that office." This castle is five or six miles from Chepstow ; the walls are still to be seen in good preservation, but of no great height : they are of a square form, with round towers at the different angles. This place, from its level situation, does not seem to have been of great strength, though it has been deeply moated. The castle, as represented in this view, has an uncom- mon appearance; the principal entrance is of smooth stone, and increases in width towards the foundation ; the gate is lofty; one side of- it is covered with ivy, shooting from a prodigious root, whose branches run in every direction over it, giving a gloomy effect and dark shadow to the entrance. At a little distance the tower of Caldecot church is seen, and appears a pleasing object from the view here deli- neated. There has been a smaller entrance opposite, in a projecting angular tower, the top of which is machico- 10 MONASTIC REMAINS lated, and the pointed door almost filled up with earth. The inside of this building is totally in ruins. Leland, in his usual quaint mode of description, says no more of this place than what follows : " The castel of Calecoyd u Iongging to the kinge is in Base Venteland, toward " the Severn shore, not far from Matthern. At this u castel, as sum say, was King Henry VII. begotten." The following description of this castle is given in Ar- chaeol. Vol. v. p. 61. by John Strange, Esq. This castle has the form of an irregular pentagon, two sides of which make up the half of a square. One of these sides, which forms the principal front to the south, has, in the centre, a double square gateway and portcullis, and a round tower at each end. The other side of the square, which fronts the west, has also a round tower at each end. The three remaining sides, which complete the pentagon, are nearly equal, but instead of round, they liave octagonal towers at the ends ; it should seem, there- fore, that the different parts of this castle were built at different times. This View was taken July 19, 1787. AND ANCIENT CASTLES. 11 PENRITH CASTLE, CUMBERLAND. It is uncertain when, or by whom, this castle was built, but it does not appear to have been of remote antiquity ; it was inclosed with a ditch, and was of a square form, but of no great dimensions, though according to Leland, it was, " A strong castel of the kinges." Camden mentions this castle's being repaired during the reign of Henry VI. Nothing worthy of remark occurs in history respecting this place, until it was inhabited by Richard III. who when Duke of Gloucester, that he might more conveniently oppose the Scots, and keep the country in awe, resided here for some time, enlarging and strengthening the same with towers, and other works. This castle remained in the hands of the crown till the reign of King William III. who granted Penrith, with its dependencies, to William Bentinck, Earl of Port- land, ancestor to the present worthy owner, the Duke of Portland. The fabric, in the Civil Wars, was entirely ruined, the lead and timber being disposed of for the benefit of the Commonwealth. The view here represented was taken in the interior, and 12 MONASTIC REMAINS exhibits the cavities or passages within the thickness of the walls : it is extremely singular, that notwithstanding the weakness occasioned by these defects, the walls are still substantial and erect. It is conjectured by the ingenious Author of the Guide to the Lakes, that the arch which appears in the plate annexed, was originally a prison, but it has rather the appearance of having been a part of the foundation. This View was taken September, 1785. AND ANCIENT CASTLES. 13 RIEVAL ABBEY, YORKSHIRE. Rieval, or Rivaulx Abbey, the first of the Cistertian order in Yorkshire, was founded 1131, or the following year, by Walter Espec, a great man in the court of King Henry I. This Walter, having lost his son and heir, (who, by a fall from a horse, broke his neck,) built and endowed three monasteries ; viz. Rieval and Kirkham, in Yorkshire, and Wardon, in Bedfordshire. Many were the benefactors, and large the possessions of .this abbey, and Pope Alexander III. by his bull, dated 1 140, confirmed to the abbot of St. Mary's, at Rieval, and to his brethren and successors, all their possessions with divers privileges. At the dissolution, here were an abbot and twenty-three monks. The situation of Rieval Abbey, and the very noble ruins still existing, render it highly de- serving notice. In the magnificent demesnes of Mr. Dun- combe, near Helmesley, are two terraces of surprising length, the extremities ornamented with temples: the first commanding Helmesley town, and its noble castle, above the surrounding trees, and, deep beneath, a beautiful valley, with the river Rye winding among hanging woods ; 14 MONASTIC REMAINS the distance presenting a rich and extensive landscape. About the centre of this noble walk (near a mile in length) stands the house, and a similar situation cannot be found. The traveller, descending into the vale, and fording the river by a circuitous route, arrives at the other terrace, which is of a conical shape ; hence he looks down into a confined vale, on every side encompassed with hills ; and, deep beneath, the venerable and majestic remains of this abbey, strike him unexpectedly with inexpressible reverence. A steep nar- row path leads down to this sequestered spot ; and here may be seen the ruins of the church, which, excepting the tower and roof, is almost perfect. The masonry of the in- terior is of a clear brown stone, as perfect as if lately built, and highly ornamented : the ends of the aisle and transept, formed by high lancet windows, and the side aisles, unroofed, shew some beautiful flying buttresses. Large remains of the apartments belonging to the abbey, ad- joining these ruins, are overgrown with moss and briars, as if totally unfrequented by man : here is much scope for conjecture respecting the refectory, cloyster, dormitory, and indeed the general plan ; the more interesting, because these ruins have been but little visited by antiquaries. In short, Rieval, from the fine state of its remains, en- riched by weathertints and ivy, and its retired situation, would afford ample amusement for a week ; a hasty survey is inadequate to form a proper idea of its numerous beauties. This View was taken September 22, 118 9. / AND ANCIENT CASTLES. 15 WENLOCK ABBEY, SHROPSHIRE. About the year 680, St. Milburga, niece to Wol- phere, King of Mercia, erected a nunnery here, in which she lived and died Abbess, with the reputation of great sanctity. It was destroyed by the Danes, and restored by Leofric, Earl of Chester, in the time of Edward the Con- fessor; but being again decayed and forsaken, Roger de Montgomery, Earl of Arundel, Chichester, and Shrews- bury, in the 14th of William the Conqueror, erected in its place a monastery for Cluniac Monks. This being consi- dered as a cell to the House de Caritate in France, under- went the fate of the alien Priories, till it was naturalized 18th Richard II. The foundation of this abbey is, however, by Brompton and Leland, attributed to Warin, Earl of Shrewsbury. In addition to the grant of the founder, the church of Clun, with seven depending chapels, was given to these monks by Isabella de Say, whose charter was confirmed by King Edward III. This monastery, soon after the dissolution, was in the possession of Thomas Lawley, Esq. but he was probably not the original grantee ; for, according to Tanner, it 16 MONASTIC REMAINS was granted 36th Henry VIII. to Augustino de Augustinis ; from Lawley it passed, successively, to the families of Bertie, Gage, and Wynn. If the situation of Wenlock Abbey (from its proximity to the town), which has nothing to recommend it, be inferior to most religious houses, there are few more deserving of notice for richness of architecture, of which the interior exhibits fine specimens, in curiously-turned arches and pillars of elegant proportion; other parts, detached from the grand mass, are visible. Adjoining to this building are three circular arches, enriched with undulating fillet-work. Many years ago great part of this abbey v/as pulled down to rebuild some houses; even at the time when the annexed view was drawn, one of the clustered pillars of the church was nearly levelled with the ground, and a cart waited in the abbey to carry away the materials. Probably this was unknown to the late worthy owner, Sir Watkyn Williams Wynn, Bart, whose son, the present proprietor, it is hoped, will preserve the remains of this venerable edifice from Tuture dilapidations. About a mile hence, from a place called Wenlock-Edge, is a most extensive prospect, enriched by the winding of the Severn, and the distant view of Shrewsbury, which is nine miles from Wenlock. This View was taken September 7, 1787. I AND ANCIENT CASTLES. 17 RUM BOROUGH PRIORY, SUFFOLK. About the time of the Conquest, Blakere, with other Benedictine monks, were appointed to begin a small religious house here, which was to be subordinate to the abbey of St. Bennet of Hulm, in Norfolk. It was dedi- cated to St. Michael. In the reign of King Henry I. this cell, with all that belonged to it, was given, either by Stephen or his son Alan, Earls of Richmond and Britany, to the abbey of St. Mary at York. This gift was confirmed by Everard, Bishop of Norwich, who allowed the abbot and convent of the last mentioned house to place or displace the monks of Rumburgh at pleasure. It was suppressed, A. D. 1528, by Pope Clement's Bull, and granted to Cardinal Wolsey, towards the endowment of his college at Ipswich; but it afterwards came into the possession of the Earls of Oxford. No part remains of this priory but the church, now parochial. It is about six miles from Bungay, in the road from Hailesworth, a little to the right. The singularity of this building is its chief recom- mendation to a place in this work. This View repre- vol. i. c 18 MONASTIC REMAINS sents the tower, with its lancet windows and buttresses. The present roof is modern, and in form resembles a dove-cot ; the lower part of wood, the upper of brick : this in all probability now no longer remains, for at the time of taking this drawing it was tit contemplation to substitute another roof. This church is situated in a flat and woody country, and though near the road, is not easily to be discovered by the passengers. This View was taken August 29, 1790. / AND ANCIENT CASTLES. 19 COCKERMOUTH CASTLE, CUMBERLAND. This castle was the seat of Waldeof, Lord of Allerdale, and his successors, after they had removed from Pap castle (about a mile from this town) ; and some attribute the building of the castle to him, with the materials of his former residence. He was son of Gospatrick, Earl of Northumberland, and contemporary with William I. Some authors, however, suppose this castle to have been built soon after the Conquest by William de Meschines, brother to Ranulph, Earl of Chester, to whom the Conqueror gave that part of Cumberland called Cope- land, lying between the Dudden and the Darwent. From this William it came to Gilbert Pipard, and from him to Richard Lucy, by whose female issue it became at length vested in the Earls of Northumberland; for Maud, sister of Anthony de Lucy, marrying Henry de Percy, Earl of Northumberland, did, by a fine, in the reign of Richard II. A. D. 1384, settle the castle and honour of Cockermouth, with a large proportion of her inheritance, upon her said husband. Charles Seymour, Duke of Somerset, obtained this c 2 20 MONASTIC REMAINS castle from the Northumberland family by marrying an only daughter of Josceline the last Earl. It now belongs to the Earl of Egremont. Of this castle no part is habitable but the gatehouse, and two rooms on each floor, where the old stable stood adjoining thereto. It stands on a seemingly artificial mount, near the Darwent, and on the west side of the river Coker. The extent of the walls, which form nearly a square, is about six hundred yards, flanked by square towers : the one excepted which is represented in the annexed view, taken from the opposite side of the river. Affixed to the outer gate are five shields of arms, four of which are said to belong to the families of Moulton, Umfraville, Lucy, and Percy. The inside of this castle contains two distinct courts divided by a wall; in the furthest are several ruined apartments of the grand mansion, now laid open to view by a prodigious mass of one of the sides being destroyed, and only united at top by a narrow fragment impending over the observer's head in an alarming manner. Deep-vaulted dungeons still remain, and many other parts may be conjectured among these ruins, which afford considerable variety. A large part of the laud which belonged to this castle is now formed into a bowling-green. This View was taken October, 1785. AND ANCIENT CASTLES. 21 BROUGHAM CASTLE, WESTMORELAND. The first Roger Lord Clifford built the greatest part of this castle ; over the inner door of which he placed this inscription, " This made Roger." The chief part of the castle, towards the west, was built by his great- grandson, Roger de Clifford. He caused his own arms, to- gether with those of his wife, Maud Beauchamp, daughter of the Earl of Warwick, to be cut in stone. There is a pond called Maud's Pool, which bears her name to this day. By inquisition, taken after her death, 4th Henry IV. the jurors found that the castle of Brougham, and demesne thereto belonging, were worth nothing ; because, they say, it lieth altogether waste, by reason of the destruction made by the Scots ; and, that the whole profit of the castle and de- mesne is not sufficient for the reparation and safe keeping of the said castle. Robert de Clifford entertained here Robert de Baliol, King of Scotland, when he came hither to hunt. It is not known how it was alienated from this family. Here Francis Earl of Cumberland entertained King James I. on the 6th, 7th, and 8th of August, 1G17, on his return from his last progress into Scotland. 22 MONASTIC REMAINS This mansion having sustained injury in the Civil Wars of the seventeenth century, Anne Countess of Pembroke repaired the same, and caused a memorial thereof to be placed on the building. Since her time, this castle hath gone to decay, and suffered dilapidation from its owners, and is now in ruins. The keep of Brougham is of Norman architecture ; a huge square tower, very lofty and strong ; there was pro- bably little more of the castle in the time of the Viponts, predecessors of the Cliffords : Robert de Vipont obtained Brougham of King John in the fourth year of his reign, included with the Lordship, in the Barony of Appleby and Burgh. This fine ruin is situated on a gentle ascent on the bank of the river Eimont, called Yeoman ; the front to- wards which is formed by three square towers, connected by lofty walls ; the gateway to the north-east is shaded by some fine ash trees. The part above described is repre- sented in this view. Brougham castle stands on the bor- ders of Westmoreland, two or three miles distant from Penrith. This View zvas taken October, 1785. Z ondoiu PubUfTiai by Zonanurv & C."z 812. . AND ANCIENT CASTLES. 23 LLEHAIDEN CASTLE, PEMBROKESHIRE, Is situated on an eminence, about one mile from Haver- fordwest, and commands a beautiful prospect. From this castle, it is said, the Bishop of St. David's takes his baronry : it was one of the noble seats belonging to that see. About the year 1514, Bishop Vaughan repaired it, and built a chapel therein; but a century afterwards, viz. A. D. 1616, Bishop Milbourn procured a licence from the Archbishop of Canterbury for its demolition, the lead and great part of the other materials having been sold in the time of some of his predecessors. The priory, or chapel of the Blessed Virgin of Low- haden, in the diocese of St. David's, was united to the chancellorship of that cathedral church, by John, bishop thereof, A. D. 1501. The ruins of this castle are very lofty and magnificent, occupying a considerable space of ground, and conveying to the mind of the observer no unpleasing memorial of ancient grandeur. This castle has in former times been a place of consi- derable strength, surrounded by a deep moat, and, al- though a principal residence of the bishop, seems to have been originally intended for a fortress. 24 MONASTIC REMAINS The gateway, supported by noble round towers, is high and spacious, but is now detached from the wall of the castle, by a late tremendous breach; the ruins lying in confused heaps in the ditch. On leaving this fine ruin in the road to Narboth (from whence it is distant about four miles), the traveller descends the steep hill on which it stands, and after crossing a beautiful stream, his atten- tion is engaged by Llehaiden church, rendered interesting by its rural situation and simple architecture ; it stands on the bank of the river, and opposite to it is seen a noble wood rising to the summit of the castle hill. This View was taken July 25, 1788. AND ANCIENT CASTLES. c 25 HAVERFORDWEST PRIORY, PEMBROKESHIRE. This priory of Black Canons is supposed to have been founded by Robert de Haverford, lord of this place, before the year 1200; who, according to Dugdale, gave to these religious divers churches and tithes in his barony of Haverford; all which were confirmed to them by King Edward III. It was dedicated to St. Mary and Thomas the Martyr. Leland says of this place, " Haverfordwest lordship " hath the waullid town of Haverford and Castel. The " water of Mylford-Haven devidith the lordship from " Pembrooke. In Haverford town thre paroch chirches, u one of them withowt the towne in suburbe. Blak " Freres within the towne. Chanons without, suppressid These ruins are in a meadow, at a small distance from the town, and are situated close to a river, which here forms an elbow, and there is something very pleasing in their appearance. A well-formed pointed arch is the most remarkable feature in this priory, above the centre of which is a small raised wall, with a little arch for a bell. The 26 MONASTIC REMAINS inside of this building is unroofed. Much industry has been exerted to effect its destruction, and the marks of havock plainly appear in the present remains, though it must have been unprofitable labour from the toughness of its materials ; hence, it is to be hoped, these ruins will continue an ornament to the neighbourhood many years longer. They command a fine view of the town and castle. Haverfordwest is a neat, well-built, and populous place ; its castle, now the gaol, is a substantial pile. It had formerly an outer gate, with two portcullisses, and an inward gate : the walls were fortified with several towers, but the fortifications were demolished in the Civil Wars under Charles I. This View was taken August 25, 1788. AND ANCIENT CASTLES. 27 MINSTER LOVEL, OXFORDSHIRE. This was an alien priory of Benedictine monks : the church of this place being given to the abbey of St. Mary de Ibreio, or Yvri, by Maud, the wife of William Lovel, temp. Johannis : after the suppression of those houses, it was granted, 1st Edward IV. to Eton College. This place formerly was only called Minster, and was the estate of Roger de Cheny, who gave the tithes thereof to the monks of Einsham ; the Lovels of Tiche- marsh afterwards purchasing the same, about the time of Henry IV. it began to be called Minster-Lovel. Accord- ing to Camden, this family descended from one Lupel, a noble Norman, and long bore a considerable figure in these parts, till Francis Lord Lovel, chamberlain to King Richard III. having joined that prince at the battle of Bosworth, was, upon the accession of King Henry VII. under the necessity of leaving the realm ; and, his estate being seized, this manor was given to Jasper, Duke of Bedford, half-brother to King Henry VI. These ruins, distant about three miles from Witney, are seen about half a mile on the right of the high road 28 MONASTIC REMAINS between that town and Burford. The principal part of the conventual church is yet standing, of great strength ; in its original state it was not inelegant ; from the opposite side to that in the annexed delineation, bounding a spacious farm-yard, many mutilated fragments may be seen, and amongst others a large broken staircase. Some parts of this church, and of the priory barn, are now used for the purposes of husbandry. At a small distance a tower of the gateway remains. The small river Windrush passes near these ruins, and gives a pleasing effect to them. This priory is in a less sheltered situation than religious houses in general were. This View was taken July, 1784. / AND ANCIENT CASTLES. 29 ST. DOGMAEL'S PRIORY, PEMBROKESHIRE. These monks were Benedictines, and of that strict and reformed sort called the order of Tiron. This priory- was begun by Martin of Tours, a Norman by birth, who first conquered the country hereabouts, called Karnes, or Kemmeis, about the time of King William the First. Robert, the son of this Martin, endowed it with lands in the reign of Henry I. and his donations were confirmed by that monarch. This was but a small community, consist- ing only, according to a MS. in Benet College library, Cambridge, of five monks ; but Willis, in his History of Abbeys, asserts that the abbot and eight monks subscribed to the supremacy. It was dedicated to St. Mary, and was, after the dissolution, granted, 35 Henry VIII. to John Bradshaw. The ruins of this small priory are very pleasantly situated, in a most retired spot, close to the river Teivy, almost sur- rounded by high hills, and one mile distant from Cardigan, on the opposite side of the water. Enough of the church is standing to shew its original size, as well as its form, which was that of a cross ; but the ruins are now entirely dis- 30 MONASTIC REMAINS joined. The inside of the priory church, as here shewn, is the most considerable and interesting of these ruins ; a part of the neighbouring church is seen through the window, forming a pleasing accompaniment; but the chief ornament of these remains is a lofty grove of trees, contri- buting much to the rural appearance of St. Dogmael. This village is seated on a promontory which forms the northernmost part of the county of Pembroke, washed on one side by St. George's Channel, and on the other by the Teivy. From hence to Cardigan, along the banks of the river, are many picturesque views. This View was taken August 21, 1788. AND ANCIENT CASTLES. 31 FRAMLINGHAM CASTLE, SUFFOLK. The castle of Framlingham is well situated, and has a fine effect when viewed from the south, the church and town adding much to the beauty of the view ; it is sup- posed to have been built in the time of the Saxons, and was given soon after the Conquest to the family of the Bigods, Earls of Norfolk, whose possessions lying chiefly in the counties of Norfolk and Suffolk, they made this their principal residence. Roger Bigod, the last Earl of Norfolk of this house, having, by his ill-conduct, made himself obnoxious to Edward I. that king obtained a conveyance of all his possessions, which were afterwards, with the earldom of Norfolk, given to Thomas of Bro- therton, his second son; from whom, by descent, this castle went to the Mowbrays, and from them, in like manner, to the Howards, successively Dukes of Norfolk. Thomas Howard, the second Duke of Norfolk of that house, was much attached to Framlingham, made it his principal seat, and greatly repaired it at the beginning of the sixteenth century; the fine fluted chimneys, and the gateway richly ornamented with the insignia of the 32 MONASTIC REMAINS Howard family, in bas-relief, yet remaining, were erected in his time, and he died in this castle in May 1524. Queen Mary, during the reign of her brother King Edward VI. resided much here with her great friend and favourite, Thomas Howard, third Duke of Norfolk, and was here when the news was brought her of the death of her brother, by which she succeeded to the throne : several instruments yet extant, signed by her, are dated from this castle : it came at length into possession of Thomas Howard, Earl of Suffolk, younger son of Thomas, fourth Duke of Norfolk. That nobleman having lavished immense sums in building at Audley-End, Charleton, &c. was forced to part with many fair estates, and this amongst the rest, which was purchased by Sir Robert Hitcham, Knight, Attorney-General in the reign of Charles I. who settled it, with other considerable pos- sessions, on the masters and fellows of Pembroke Hall, Cambridge, for charitable uses. The castle is now mostly a ruin, but the west part is fitted up for a workhouse for the poor of the town: in its walls may be discovered some of the ancient carved work, with which the interior apartments were formerly ornamented. This View, taken August 27, 1 7 90, shews the side of the gateway from the ditch. ROJOlN TOWER AT DOVER CASTLE, Z ondon, JPulli/TiiZ cu (At Act direct*. &y G.<7. farkyru.JZxj Oa£.'.*Jg>. / AND ANCIENT CASTLES. 39 ROMAN TOWER, DOVER, KENT. This ancient tower, or pharos, stands at the end of the old church in the castle of Dover, which is said to have been built by Lucius, the first christian king of the Britons, who reigned in Kent and Sussex, and endowed it with the toll and custom of the haven. According to Darell, the ancient chronicles of Dover recorded, that St. Phaganus first dedicated it to Christ, anno 156; but being profaned by the Saxons, it was again consecrated by St. Augustine. The base of this tower is octagonal without, quadran- gular within; the upper part is in circumference con- siderably less than the lower, it being diminished nearly about the centre by a slope. The top, supposed to have been formerly higher, is embattled. Upon four of the sides are Gothic windows, six feet high, handsomely turned with semicircular arches, formed of Roman bricks, which appear in every part of this singular building. The great square tower of the church adjoining, which appears to be of coeval antiquity, is at each angle pro- fusely covered with them. In the annexed View, repre- VOL. It D 34 MONASTIC REMAINS senting the west side of the Roman pharos, is another arch of Roman brick, and the regular lines here exhi- bited consist of double rows of the same ; between each are seven courses of hewn stone, alternately to the top. The door is on the east side, about six feet wide, and four- teen in height. This tower was used as a steeple, and had a ring of bells, which Sir George Rooke caused to be removed to Portsmouth ; since which the roof has been suffered to go to ruin, and now this building is exposed in its bleak situation to the weather ; one large beam is seen through the window in the View, hanging in a tremen- dous manner. In the church many persons of rank were buried. Darell mentions Sir Robert Ashton, who was constable of the castle in the year 1384, and his deputy Richard Malmain, who had monuments erected to them here, wherein they seem (says he) still to live and breathe in their effigies. Of these, or any other, no vestiges are remaining. This Vieiv was taken July 3, 1790. CASTJL1R AT KEWFOKT tlPOST USKE. Jtorulan. JPubl'Jhd en tfe^ct ctirec&i.fy G:x7. Parkyn^.TZtif. Oct. AND ANCIENT CASTLES. 35 NEWPORT CASTLE, PEMBROKE. This town, situated on the river Nevern, was built by Martin de Tours, who conquered the country of Kemmeis about the time of William the Conqueror : the castle here was either built by him, or his posterity : they made Newport a corporation, granting it several privi- leges, and constituting therein a portreeve and bailiff. The same family were likewise the founders of St. Dog- mael's Priory, on the Teivi, a mile from Cardigan. This castle was almost demolished by Llewellyn Prince of South Wales, anno 1215, being then possessed by the Flemings. The barony descended by marriage to the barons de .Audeley, who held it a long time, till, in the reign of Henry VIII. William Owen, a descendant from a daughter of Sir Nicholas Martin, recovered his right after a tedious litigation at law, and left it to his son George, an eminent antiquary, and friend of Camden. For want of issue male, it came into the hands of John Laugharne, of Lauriston, gentleman, and Mrs. Lloyd, of Bromwith, who were the owners in the year 1740. In that year, according to Bucks View of Newport D 2 36 MONASTIC REMAINS Castle, large remains were in existence ; but now nothing more is visible than the gateway here shewn. It stands on an eminence above the town, commanding a fine view of the bay of Newport, and consists of two stately round towers, gradually diminishing upwards : the space between them totally ruined, so as to render them, at present, entirely unconnected. That the ground behind the gate- way appears of a much greater elevation, is most pro- bably owing to the ruins of this edifice having fallen and choked up the space of entrance. Newport is at present a poor village, on the coast, between Kilgarron and Fisgard. This View was taken August 22, 1788. BYILANJD) ABjBF/T., Londm.TuiluhU as tAe Ace directs & ScW.JVw/s, fal 'Mali \Suty / /8O6 '. AND ANCIENT CASTLES. 37 BYLAND ABBEY, YORKSHIRE. In 1143, Roger de Mowbray removed the convent of Cistertian monks from Hode to a part of. his mother's jointure, near the river Rye, nearly opposite Rieval Abbey, which situation being found inconvenient, they removed to Stocking, and afterwards, in 1177, fixed on this spot, where the monks, having cleared and drained a large tract of land, built this noble abbey, dedicated to the Blessed Virgin. It was surrendered 1540 by the prior and twenty-four monks. Byland Abbey, of a date and style of architecture nearly coeval with Rieval, is about five miles distant from it, across a moor, from which, in descending a very steep hill, the prospect of a fine country, and of this abbey, opens on the direct approach to the village. This building has been miserably destroyed ; the parts remaining are the west front, and one end of the transept (the former here delineated) ; not a pillar of the nave is standing, but some parts of the lateral aisles may be seen. That this must have been a superb edifice is plainly proved by these grand remains. The door is richly ornamented, and the lancet 38 MONASTIC REMAINS windows are of an elegant form, above which has been a large circular one ; half of it is still remaining, and was per- fect within the memory of several persons now living. This building and Rieval are noble specimens of the style of architecture in the 1 2th century. The situation of Byland has been well chosen, and sheltered from the contiguous moors : the houses of the village are too close to it, but the ruins have a fine effect in the road to Coxwould. About a mile hence is Newburgh, the seat of the Earl of Fauconberg, formerly a priory, but in its present appear- ance no traces of antiquity are discernible. The learned antiquary, William Lambarde, informs us from ancient chronicles, that the Scots came to Bylaud in Edward the Second's time, burning and spoiling the country before them^ till the nobility meeting, resisted and repulsed them, A. D. 1322. AND ANCIENT CASTLES. 39 ABBOTSBURY ABBEY, DORSETSHIRE, Was founded by Orcius, or Orking, steward to King Canute, about the year 1026 : here he instituted a society of secular canons, who were, by him or his widow, not long afterwards, changed into a monastery of the Bene* dictine order, dedicated to St. Peter. Edward the Confessor, and William the Conqueror, ratified Orcius and his wife's benefactions to the monks here, and granted them certain immunities. By an inqui- sition taken 53 Henry III. the several lands, rents, and liberties of this abbey were set forth; the jury also found that the abbot held his estate of the king in capite, by the service of one knights-fee only, and not per baroniam, and therefore was no baron. This place is near the coast, and about eight miles from Weymouth. Of the religious house here many remains are in existence. The gateway, in good preservation, leads to a very spacious farm-yard, containing two houses, which, together with their offices, have been originally parts of the abbey. Not far from hence is a very large and lofty granary, of coeval antiquity with the other buildings, being 40 MONASTIC REMAINS formerly the abbot's barn. These remains are curious; but more worthy of notice is the beautiful chapel of St. Ca- therine, here represented, which stands on a high hill at a distance from the other ruins, commanding a view of the sea, and the small town of Abbotsbury : this is wholly built with stone, not a piece of timber being discoverable from its foundation to its roof ; the latter is curiously arched with ribs of stone, ornamented with Gothic work, and carved key-stones. On each side of the chapel is a handsome porch, and every part of the building is well supported by buttresses. Not a tree, and scarcely a shrub being visible on the hill where the chapel is situated, the view is rendered less pleasing than it otherwise would have been. This View was taken July 12, 1791, i AND ANCIENT CASTLES. 41 NEWARK PRIORY, SURREY. This priory of Black Canons was built by Ruald de Calva, and Beatrix his wife, with the assent of William Malbanc, their heir, to the honour of the Blessed Virgin Mary, and St. Thomas of Canterbury, in the reign of King Richard I. between 1189 and 1199, or probably earlier; and their endowment was confirmed by King Henry III. and Edward II. How far Weaver may be depended on is uncertain, but he ascribes the foundation of this priory to Sir Hugh Rous, or Rufus. Newark, Novus Locus, 01 Newsted Priory, as it is sometimes denominated, is situated on the river Wey, on a spot formerly called Aldebury, one mile from Ripley, and six from Guildford. The walls of the nave remain, but the east and west ends are totally destroyed; the s outh transept, and part of the north, are standing, but most of the parts near the foundation are in a mutilated state, occasioned by laborious endeavours to destroy this church, which Grose relates was preserved from total annihilation by the interposition of the late Right Ho- nourable Arthur Onslow. These ruins are in the centre 42 MONASTIC REMAINS of an open field, but being obscured by the intervening trees, are visible only at a small distance ; they still ex- hibit remains of their former consequence, and are worthy a visit from the curious. Newark Priory, with the estates belonging to it, were granted by King Henry VIII. in the year 1536, to Sir Anthony Brown, Knight, whose descendant, Henry Lord Viscount Montacute, sold it, about 1711, to Sir Richard Onslow, Bart, and the present owner is Lord Onslow. This View was taken August 5, 1788. \ / AND ANCIENT CASTLES. 43 WINCHELSEA GATEWAY, SUSSEX. This gate was built at the same time with the new town of Winchelsea, after the destruction of the old one by the terrible tempest in the year 1250, when it was overwhelmed by the sea. After that calamity, the in- habitants petitioned King Edward I. for a plot of ground to rebuild their town upon : which being granted, it was encompassed with a strong wall. But no sooner was Winchelsea finished, and beginning to flourish, than it was sacked, first by the French, and afterwards by the Spaniards ; and finally, on the retiring of the sea, it suddenly fell to decay. Its almost deserted streets, in which the grass grows, best express the present state of this once famous town; but the remains of ancient grandeur still render it in- teresting to an antiquary. The church, which, by the adjoining ruins, has doubtless been much larger, is still a noble building, containing several curious sepulchral figures. The monastery of Grey Friars is now the seat of Mr. Luxford, and the ruined church belonging to it is yet MONASTIC REMAINS standing in his garden. This View represents the gate leading to Rye, as it appears from the steep declivity of the hill whereon it stands ; the contrary way through the arch exhibits a prospect of the town of Rye, four miles distant, rising above the surrounding marshes, and form- ing a pleasing object ; and hence is seen, midway between the above place and Winchelsea, the heavy and inelegant castle built by King Henry VIII. with its large circular tower. A perforation in the roof of this gate forebodes its speedy destruction ; it seems capable however of repair at a trifling expense : but, unless that be undertaken soon, it will become dangerous. It is to be hoped, that the proper attention in this age to the works of antiquity may be the means of preserving somewhat longer a building so pleasing as Winchelsea Gateway. This View was taken July 16, 1790. AND ANCIENT CASTLES. 45 OKEHAMPTON CASTLE, DEVONSHIRE. Supposed to have been built by Baldwin de Briony, who was the owner at the time of the Conquest, as Doomsday Book records. It descended to Richard de Rivers, whose sister, Adeliga, marrying a Courtney, this place continued the seat of that noble family until the dis- putes -between the houses of York and Lancaster, when, in espousing the latter interest, Thomas de Courtney, and his brother John, lost their lives ; and this castle was seized by King Edward IV. in consequence thereof. That mo- narch granted Okehampton Castle, with the manor, to Sir John Dynham ; but they were forfeited by him, and again restored to the Courtneys by King Henry VII. Henry VIII. dismantled this castle and park, after the execution of Henry Courtney for a treasonable correspondence with Cardinal Pole. Edward Courtney, in the reign of Queen Mary, obtained a restoration ; but he dying without male issue, it came, by a female, to the Mohuns, Barons of Mohun and Okehampton; the male line of which family became extinct by the death of Lord Mohun, who fell in a duel with the Duke of Hamilton, in the year 1712: 46 MONASTIC REMAINS afterwards this estate came to Christopher Harris, of Haynes, Esq. by marriage with the heiress of that family. The pleasing though pensive thoughts which occupy the mind on visiting the scenes of ancient grandeur, are here rendered peculiarly so, from the gloomy situation of these ruins, situated in a valley, confined on each side by steep hills, and watered by a rapid stream. These remains are extremely scattered ; the south side is most connected and perfect, rising above some rich shrubs, pleasingly contrasted on the opposite side by a hanging wood, and between these a flat intervenes of excellent pasture. On a lofty mount, a large tower, belonging to the keep, is yet standing; but one half of it appears on the verge of falling. * This View was taken July 16, 1791. AND ANCIENT CASTLES. METTINGHAM CASTLE, SUFFOLK, Was first built by John surnamed de Norwich, who obtained a licence from King Edward III. to make a castle of his house in this town. On his death, in the 36th year of the reign of the above monarch, it came to his grandson John, who left the same to his cousin Catherine de Brews; but she soon after taking upon her the veil, Robert de Ufford Earl of Suffolk, and son of Margaret de Norwich, inherited this castle as next heir. From the Uffords it descended to the Mettinghams, who, being the lords of this town, took their name from it. In this castle, Sir John de Norwich, Knight, Vice Ad- miral of England, founded a college, or chantry, which was surrendered to King Henry VIII. in the 33d year of his reign. Mettingham Castle is distant from Bungay between two and three miles ; it appears to have been of a square form, and was defended by a deep moat, which still sur- rounds its ruins, filled with clear water. The annexed View represents the front of the gateway, flanked by lofty and narrow towers : this entrance faces a small common. 48 MONASTIC REMAINS The walls on each side of the gateway, against which sheds and stables have been erected, are much enriched by moss and ivy, added to which, the whole is shaded by stately ash trees, rendering Mettingham a very picturesque and interesting ruin. Some large fragments of the castle are scattered in various parts of the site. This residence being situated upon a flat, does not appear to have been of much strength, except what it might derive from its moat. This View teas taken August, 1729. ZtmdtlLft&ljfUt as lAc sia directs fry tr.JMirtcfif JCtq Jim/.ijfx. . AND ANCIENT CASTLES. 49 TINMOUTH PRIORY, NORTHUMBERLAND. A church of wood was erected here soon after the introduction of the Christian faith into Britain. About the middle of the seventh century, Oswald, King of the Northumbrians, rebuilt it of stone. In the new edifice, A. D. 651, the murdered body of Oswin, King of Deira, was interred. This royal martyr, who was afterwards canonized, became the patron saint of the place. In its exposed situation it was often ravaged by the Danes. Tosti, Earl of Northumberland, began to restore it, and it was endowed A. D. 1090, by the succeeding Earl Mowbray, who filled it with Black Monks from St. Alban's, to which place he made it a cell for ever. By this time it had been surrounded with fortifications : va- rious grants were made to it by successive kings : to the munificence of King John it owed many lands and great liberties ; the latter were infringed upon by Edward III. but he afterwards, from his respect to the two glorious martyrs, St. Alban and St. Oswin, fully restored them. This plate represents the east end of the church, which is still almost perfect, but the north side is laid open to vol. i. E 50 MONASTIC REMAINS the foundation, and every other part broken and detached. The windows are ornamented with the zig-zag Saxon embellishment, and the divisions, or pillars, between them are enriched with pilasters of five members, having foliated capitals. The architecture of this abbey is sin- gularly light and elegant; the broken groins of arches belonging to the roof were turned with rich mouldings. Among the eminent persons buried here, were Malcolm, King of Scots, and his son Edward, slain A. D. 1094, near Alnwick. The small building projecting from the east end of the church was the Oratory of St. Mary, wherein was the shrine of St. Oswin, erected over the place of his interment. The prior, with fifteen monks and three novices, surrendered this house January 12th, 1539. The site and most of the lands were granted, 5th Edward VI. to John Dudley, Duke of Northumber- land, on whose attainder in Queen Mary's time they reverted to the crown. This place was afterwards granted to the Percy family, and was resumed by government in 1783, for a place of arms and depository of stores. It is boldly situated on a piece of land projecting into the sea, with steep precipices on the north-east and south sides. This View was taken October, 1785. AND ANCtENT CASTLES. 51 BASINGWERK ABBEY, FLINTSHIRE. By whom this was founded is not certainly known. Tanner attributing it to Ranulph, Earl of Chester, A. D. 1131, who was poisoned, according to Dugdale's Baronage, in January 1153. He supposes it to have been afterwards much improved, and made an abbey for Cistertian Monks by King Henry II. Lei and asserts that this king was the first founder. Llewellyn Prince of North Wales confirmed the dona- tions made to this abbey, and David his son granted them also certain lands and revenues in the year 1240. The family of Montalt likewise were great benefactors. Basingwerk is situated on a flat near the water, one mile from Holywell; the remains are very considerable, but shew it to have been of a length disproportionate to its width ; the refectory seems most entire, wherein are three windows with pointed arches, but the doors are circular; at one end of the church are two doors, and adjoining to the refectory are six windows, inwardly rather of a circular form, none of them ornamented, except a small double one. E 2 52 MONASTIC REMAINS At the extremity of this building are three arches, almost circular, and supported by pillars, which appear to be still very solid, and, without being much ornamented, seem elegant from the simplicity of their construction. This Plate represents an inside view of part of these ruins. The architecture of this abbey is partly Saxon, having round arches, and short columns in some places ; in others, the narrow pointed Gothic window. A broken fore-ground, and some parts obscured by a well-formed tree, are highly advantageous to the scene. This View zvas taken August 23, 1791. AND ANCIENT CASTLES. 53 MILTON ABBEY, DORSETSHIRE. Founded by King Athelstan towards the middle of the tenth century, who endowed it, and placed therein Benedictine Monks, to pray for the soul of his brother Edwin, whom he had caused to be drowned, putting him to sea in an open vessel, without sails or oars, having previously procured false accusations to be made against him. He likewise presented to this monastery several holy relics, purchased from Rome, and other places; the principal curiosities of which were a piece of our Saviour's cross, and a large crucifix, composed of gold, silver, and precious stones. This fine abbey church stands between two and three miles from Milbourne, in the park of Lord Milton, whose elegant mansion adjoins it. The injury sustained by a tempest long since, has given the church a triangular form, its tower appearing in the manner here represented. By a record temp. Edward. II. it appears that the monas- tery, with its books and muniments, sustained great damage by lightning in the beginning of that reign, and it probably has been ever since in the state that it now is. 54 MONASTIC REMAINS The trellis work and pinnacles give a richness to the outside of the building, which otherwise is heavy : but the inside has been profusely adorned with florid Gothic work, many specimens of which have lately been destroyed (together with a fine screen, ornamented with ancient paintings of Kings) in the repair this church is now undergoing by Mr. Wyatt : but this seems to have been done with regret, and from necessity, for it should be mentioned injustice to the architect, that great pains are taken to restore to its pristine splendor one considerable part superbly gilt, and the new work is executed exactly in imitation of the old, in plaister of Paris, by an inge- nious artist. This View was taken July 26, 1791. E A G1LE T OWE BL CAEJLEfARVOH CASTLE. Icndcrt.Fublished. ty Longman, frCfidn.. AND ANCIENT CASTLES. 55 EAGLE TOWER, CAERNARVON CASTLE. This truly magnificent castle owes its origin to King Edward I. being built by him A. D. 1282, soon after he had conquered Wales : and it still remains, to outward appearance, in the same state as in his time. The inside consisted of two grand courts, divided by a strong building in the centre, now destroyed. The View annexed represents from the inside of the castle the Eagle Tower, which is of an immense size, and consists of ten angles ; it has likewise the addition of three slender turrets, issuing from the top, at equal distances. The battlements are perhaps the largest in the kingdom, being each of them not less than ten feet high. On one of the turrets is a mutilated stone figure of an eagle larger than life. This place is memorable for giving birth to Edward, the first Prince of Wales of the English line, on the 25th of April, 1284. The grand entrance of the castle is from the town : the gateway is very lofty, and was defended by four port- cullisses ; above it, in an ornamented niche, is a statue of Edward I. in the act of drawing his sword : the walls m MONASTIC REMAINS adjoining are very lofty, with angular towers throughout the whole building, at convenient stations. The walls next the river are built on the solid rock, having a grand appearance viewed from the opposite shore. On the inside, towards the water, is a perfect gallery of very considerable length, formed within the thickness of the walls, having windows to the court, and loopholes out- wardly for the discharge of arrows. From the summit of the Eagle Tower is a noble pro- spect of the strait of Menai, the Isle of Anglesea, &c. lliis View was taken Jugust 24, 178y. AND ANCIENT CASTLES. 57 MONTGOMERY CASTLE, MONTGOMERYSHIRE. The present castle was built, according to Powell, by King Henry III. in 1221, who granted it to his Great Justiciary, Hubert de Burgh ; soon after which it was besieged, but was relieved by the English. However, upon Prince Llewellyn assembling a great army, Hubert evacuated it in the year 1231. In process of time this castle came into the possession of Roger Mortimer, who died seised of it, A. D. 1354- ; it continued in his family for several descents, and after- wards became the seat of the Lords Herbert of Cherbury. In the Civil Wars Montgomery Castle was seized for the Parliament, 1644, by Sir Thomas Middleton, who, on the appearance of the king's army, suddenly retreated to Oswestry ; but having obtained a reinforcement, he, under the command of Sir William Brereton, gained a com- plete victory over the royal forces. This battle was fought very near to the castle, which was dismantled in a few years after by order of the Commons. Montgomery Castle has been so much defaced during the Civil Wars, that but few vestiges of it are discernible. 58 MONASTIC REMAINS A small part of a round tower remains ; this and some large fragments of the adjoining walls, are almost the whole of this once famous fortress, which by situation was almost impregnable. The country round it is ex- tremely interesting, and the prospect very extensive. The present View is not intended as a representation of the elevated height of the building, it being taken from a kind of terrace at the upper part of the hill. In the church at Montgomery are some sepulchral monuments worthy of observation. This View teas taken August 29, 1791. AND ANCIENT CASTLES. 59 COLCHESTER CASTLE, ESSEX. Norden attributes the building of this castle to Edward the Elder, but it is upon better authority said to be of Norman origin, and the work of Eudo Dapifer, founder of St. John's Abbey, in the time of William the Conqueror. After passing through the hands of various possessors, it came to the Crown, and was by King Ed- ward III. conferred on Sir Robert de Benhall, Knight, for life ; after whose death, Henry IV. granted it, in 1404, to his son Henry, Duke of Gloucester. In the reign of Henry VII. the castle belonged to John Vere, Earl of Oxford, in whose family it continued for many years. In 1688, John Wheeley purchased this ancient castle, with an intent to demolish the same for the profit of the materials; but after much mischief, he, for- tunately for the curious, discovered that the labour would be greater than the gain, and, in consequence, desisted, and sold it to Sir Isaac Rebow, of whose grandson Charles Gray, Esq. the late owner, purchased it. Colchester Castle and town sustained a blockade of ten weeks by General Fairfax in 1648, the garrison suffering 60 MONASTIC REMAINS great hardships for want of provisions ; but the defeat of the Scotch army under Duke Hamilton, by Cromwell, was the occasion of its surrender, when Sir Charles Lucas, and Sir George Lisle, two of the valiant commanders, were inhumanly shot. The form of this building is nearly square ; the walls twelve feet thick at the base, and eleven on the upper story ; the angles edged with Roman brick, which appears in great quantities throughout the whole building. The entrance on the south side is under a fine ornamented circular arch. This view is taken from the north-west angle of the castle, looking towards the town. On the distant tower is represented a cupola, erected by the above-mentioned Mr. Gray, which is by no means an injudicious addition to this curious pile. This View was taken August 26, 1790. H ®J7Y &B ©' S T CHAP E JL , AND ANCIENT CASTLES. 61 HOLY GHOST CHAPEL, BASINGSTOKE, HAMPSHIRE, Is not of much antiquity, having been erected in the early part of the reign of King Henry VIII. by William the first Lord Sandes, who obtained of that king a licence for its foundation, and the establishment of a guild by the name of the Brotherhood or Guild of the Holy Ghost. He endowed the same with an estate for the instruction of youth and maintenance of a priest to perform divine service. This Brotherhood came to the Crown in the 1st Edward VI. in pursuance of the act for the suppres- sion of colleges, free chapels, &c. The inhabitants of Basingstoke, through the mediation of Cardinal Pole, the Pope's Legate, and Archbishop of Canterbury, obtained of Queen Mary the restitution of this Guild to its original state; which having nothing belonging to it of a super- stitious tendency, continued uninterrupted till the Civil Wars, when it was seized on, and the chapel and school shut up, until Dr. Morley, Bishop of Winchester, ob- tained the restoration of this estate in 1670, to be applied to the purposes for which it was originally instituted. Camden says, the history of the Prophets, Apostles, 62 MONASTIC REMAINS and Disciples of Christ was very curiously described, with their several portraits upon the roof; and that Lord Sandes, the founder, was buried here. The ruins of the Holy Ghost Chapel are situated on a hill northward of the town ; it was chiefly built with brick, but faced with stone ; at the south-west angle is an hexa- gonal turret, ornamented with curious niches ; excepting this, the south wall, and a small part of the east end, are the only remaining parts. This view represents the inside. The inhabitants of Basingstoke continue to bury here, in preference to the parochial churchyard, being a much drier soil. This Viezv was taken June 28, 1791. §? Agatha's Abbey. BJ> i bylmgman.3IursLttr4s. Orrm t3ro wriJiizgrrwstAr Bx> w. Jem." 1*161$ AND ANCIENT CASTLES. G3 ST. AGATHA'S ABBEY, YORKSHIRE. Founded A. D. 1151, by Roaldus, Constable of Richmond Castle, as Tanner relates, for monks of the Pi emonstratensian order. Among the benefactors to this house were Roger de Mowbray, and Alan Bigod, whose grants were confirmed by King Edward III. Henry Lord Scroop had the patronage of this abbey in the 1 Oth year of the above reign, in which he was succeeded by his son William, who, for want of issue, left the same to his brother Richard Lord Scroop, by whom Bolton Castle was built, and who was high chancellor to King Richard II. He gave to these canons the manor of Brompton upon Swale, and having passed the prime of his life in state affairs, spent the remainder of his days, and much of his estate, in acts of piety, forming an establishment for the support of ten canons above the usual number of this monastery ; also two secular ones, and twenty-two poor men to celebrate divine service for the said Richard, his heirs, &c. ; and dying 4th Henry IV. was here interred, as was likewise his son Stephen. This abbey, seated somewhat more than a mile from 64 MONASTIC REMAINS Richmond, on the river Swale, for its rural situation, and elegant architecture, is well worthy notice. Most parts of the monastery yet remain. This plate is a representa- tion of the ruins near the river, taken from the south- west ; a large fissure would have caused the destruction of this end, had it not been for a buttress raised against the angle by some friendly hand, which may preserve this curious building some time longer, though evidently now in a dangerous state. The four intersecting arches on the side here exhibited are excellently turned. From hence is a noble prospect of the town of Richmond, with its magnificent castle, &c. This View zvas taken September 25, 1789. AND ANCIENT CASTLES. 65 CERNE ABBEY, DORSETSHIRE. St. Augustine, the monk, after he had converted Kent, travelled with his companions into the more remote parts of King Ethelbert's dominions preaching the gospel of Christ, and coming into this country, a great number of people offered themselves for baptism, in a place where no water was to be had, upon which, as the legend re- ports, a fountain of water sprang up miraculously, which was afterwards called St. Austin's Fountain. Here afterwards Oswald, brother to St. Edmund, king and martyr, led a hermit's life, and dying with the reputa- tion of great sanctity, was buried near this place, over whose relics Egelwald erected a small monastery of three religious persons. Upon this slender establishment Ailmer Earl of Cornwall began, temp. Edgari, and finished A.D. 987, an abbey for Benedictine monks. This foundation throve so well, that it was of considerable value at the time of the general dissolution. It was surrendered 1539, by the abbot and sixteen monks. This abbey, watered by a fine rivulet in a champain country, eight miles from Dorchester, was sheltered on VOL. I. f 66 MONASTIC REMAINS its sides by the surrounding hills : the only part now re- maining is a tower, called the Porter's Lodge : in the west front is a long projecting window ; the grand divi- sions are filled with armorial shields, in high preservation. At the north angle, from whence this drawing was made, is a winding staircase. The farm-house seen in the dis- tance was built with the materials of this abbey, and near to it is the pellucid spring, for which Cerne is famous. At the other end of the town is a large barn, of similar form and dimensions to that at Abbotsbury; it has every appearance of having been the granary of this monastery. This View was taken July 23, 1791. AND ANCIENT CASTLES. 67 CHEPSTOW CASTLE, MONMOUTHSHIRE. The erection of this castle is of uncertain date ; it was in early times the property of the Clares, Earls of Pembroke and Strighul, and probably owes its origin to some of them. This place came to the Bigods by mar- riage with a daughter of Richard, surnamed Strongbow, the last of that family. During the Civil Wars, Chepstow Castle was held for the King by Colonel Fitzmorris, and in October 1645, together with the town, was taken by Colonel Morgan, governor of Gloucester. In 1648, on the last effort of the royalists, the castle was surprised and taken by Sir Nicholas Kemish, who, with about forty men, fell in the siege they bravely sustained here against the enemy under Colonel Ewer, whom Cromwell had left before the place, after he, in person, had made an unsuc- cessful attempt to storm it. Henry Martin, the regicide, died in this castle, aged seventy-eight, in 1680-1, after having been confined here many years. Chepstow Castle, however remarkable as a fortress its situation must formerly have rendered it, is now in as f 2 68 MONASTIC REMAINS great a degree interesting to the traveller, particularly from the opposite side of the river Wye, over which, on the verge of a lofty rock, the mouldering walls of this magnificent pile occupy a considerable extent. The entrance, which is the subject of this plate, with a stately round tower parallel therewith, is of great beauty, enriched with herbage, weather tints, and ivy, in a most picturesque manner. This castle, under lease from his Grace the Duke of Beaufort, is in the occupation of Mrs. Williams, whose maternal ancestors have resided on this spot for a great number of years. Several beautiful drawings of Chepstow have been made by Sandby, and other artists ; among whom must not be omitted the late Mr. George Robertson, to whose me- mory the editor is happy to pay some small tribute of gratitude, in ascribing the origin of this work to his in- structions. This View teas taken May 22, 17$7. AND ANCIENT CASTLES. 69 KENILWORTH CASTLE, WARWICKSHIRE. Built in the reign of King Henry I. by Geoffry de Clinton, his chamberlain and treasurer. This castle was garrisoned by King Henry II. during his son's rebellion ; and granted by Henry III. to Simon Montfort, Earl of Leicester, who held it against that monarch in his disputes with his barons. At this place, in Edward I/s reign, was held the society of Knights of the Round Table, who exercised themselves in tilting, and other feats ; and within the same walls Edward II. the son and successor of the above king, experienced a close and rigorous con- finement, and here resigned his crown to his son Ed- ward III. Great part of the present castle was erected by John of Gaunt, in the reign of Richard II. Henry VIII. repaired this building with considerable cost ; and very noble addi- tions were made by Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, the great favourite of Queen Elizabeth : the costly and mag- nificent entertainments he displayed during her seventeen days visit here, in 1575, are well known. After the Civil Wars, Cromwell gave this castle and manor to several of 70 MONASTIC REMAINS his officers, who pulled down one side of Caesar's tower, drained the lake, and cut down the woods. This View is taken from the south-west, and represents three distinct parts of the castle : viz. a part erected by the Earl of Leicester, another called Caesar's tower, and the noble gateway built by the above nobleman, now a con- venient farm-house. Kenilworth, situate about midway between Coventry and Warwick, is one of the most extensive and superb remains in the kingdom ; and the ivy which covers great part of it is very remarkable for its luxuriant growth, and innumerable branches. This View was taken October 8, 1789. AND ANCIENT CASTLES. 71 WHITE CASTLE, MONMOUTHSHIRE. This castle is supposed to have been raised soon after the Norman Conquest; but history is silent as to its builder. In the reign of King Henry III. it was possessed by Hubert de Burgh, the great Earl of Kent, who in- curring the royal displeasure, nine articles were, by that monarch's order, drawn up against him in 1239, for treason, pretended to have been committed in his former management of the king's affairs. To each of these, it is said, he answered with such ability, modesty and submission, that all were satisfied with his innocence, though the king and crown lawyers endeavoured to prove him guilty. Probably, Henry, who was poor and extravagant, had an eye to Hubert's posses- sions in this prosecution ; for his wrath was not appeased till the earl had resigned into his hands this and his other castles. In 1267 the same monarch gave White Castle, inter alia, to his second son Edmund, Earl of Lancaster; but this Earldom was afterwards, by Edward III. erected into a Duchy in the 36th year of his reign, he having MONASTIC REMAINS created his son, John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, on his marriage with the daughter and heir of Henry the last of the male line of Edmund. White Castle has ever since belonged to the Duchy. It stands on an eminence, about nine miles from Mon- mouth, and six from Abergavenny. It was built in a simple style, and had no windows or lights, except nar- row loop-holes, which as usual grew wider inwards ; de- fence seeming to have been the principal consideration in this structure. The keep, in an oval form, was not en- tirely surrounded by an outer wall ; but had two ad- vanced works, one opposite to each end of it. The largest covered the draw-bridge, and grand entrance, and inclosed a considerable area, having four towers, and a gate formed by two projecting walls, which originally were joined by an arch, with rooms over it. The walls and towers of the keep are yet standing all round, and this view of it is taken from the deep trench which sur- rounds the same : the opposite bank rises to so great a height as to obscure the castle at a little distance ; though at a greater, this building appears a striking feature in the landscape. This View was taken August 16, 1788. ■* IK JIM M EE ABBEY, Lo/u£>n ~£u/>ti/h'cl a& l/icslc/ c/ac-rtr f>y tr.J JhrAyrw-Esy .Mar- 1 AND ANCIENT CASTLES. 73 KIMMER ABBEY, MERIONETHSHIRE, Was dedicated to St. Mary, and of the Cistertian order : it was founded, according to Speed, by Llewellyn, the son of Gervase, Prince of North Wales, about A. D.' 1200. Whether that Prince was really the founder has been matter of doubt ; he certainly, however, was a benefactor ; and there is a charter of confirmation made by him to this abbey in 1209, printed in the 1st volume of Dugdale's Monasticon. It seems to have been in a flourishing condition in 1231, for King Henry III. having made an expedition in Wales against Llewellyn, part of his army were deceitfully led into a morass by a monk of this house, which so exasperated the King that he re- solved to set it on fire : but his fury was soon appeased by the humiliation of the abbot, and the payment of three hundred marks, a considerable sum in those days. This abbey, a mile distant from Dolgelly, is near to the banks of the river Mowthy ; the walls of the church, yet remaining, are of a length disproportionate to the breadth, being almost forty paces long, and not above eight broad ; the east end has three lancet windows, scarcely discernible 74 MONASTIC REMAINS among the clustering ivy which surrounds them ; on the south side are three very neatly ornamented arches, and an aperture in the wall, in which was probably kept the holy water ; in this part of the building, likewise, was a semi-circular door, opposite to two small arches; and near them is a mutilated stone representing the head of a human figure. This View has been particularly described, on account of the obscurity of its situation, it being scarcely known by the inhabitants of the neighbouring town of Dolgelly, which is seated in the most fertile spot of the rocky county of Merioneth. This View was taken August 27, 1791. AND ANCIENT CASTLES. 75 BINHAM PRIORY, NORFOLK. The manor of Binham was bestowed by King Wil- liam the Conqueror on Peter de Valoines, his nephew, who, in conjunction with Albreda, his wife, early in the reigu of Henry I. established here a religious society, en- dowing it with the above manor, and other possessions ; with an express condition annexed, that it should be sub- ject to the Abbey of St. Al ban's, in the same manner as St. Pancras, at Lewes, in Sussex, was subject to the Abbey of Cluny, in Normandy. In the reign of King John, a dispute arose respecting the patronage of this priory, between Robert de Fitz- Walter and the prior of St. Alban's ; and Binham was besieged by the former, whereupon the king sent forces for its defence, which decided the question. Probably a similar circumstance happened in the reign of Edward II. as there is a record extant, in the 14th year of that king, directing the sheriff of Norfolk to arrest the prior and thirteen monks, and to deliver them to the abbot of St. Alban's. At the time of the Dissolution, there were here but 76 MONASTIC REMAINS six monks. It was granted, 33d Henry VIII. to Thomas Paston, Esq. of whose great-grandson it is reported, that he, having a design to build a mansion on the site of the priory, afterwards relinquished his intention, in conse- quence of the death of one of his workmen, who was killed in the act of undermining the foundation. This noble church is situate four miles from Walsing- ham, in the road to Wells. The most striking feature is the west end, now used as*the parish church: this is composed of three finely-executed arches, enriched with appropriate ornaments ; and these were surmounted by a window, in the grandest style of Gothic architecture, now, to the great detriment of its appearance, nearly destroyed, by being bricked up. That this church was formerly of greater extent is evident from several broken arches, of the Saxon form, which remain at the east end. This View was taken September 2, 1790. AND ANCIENT CASTLES. 77 KIRKHAM PRIORY, YORKSHIRE. This was a Monastery of Canons Regular of St. Augustine, founded to the honour of the Holy Trinity by Walter de Espec and Adeline his wife, with the consent of King Henry I. A. D. 1121, in consequence of the un- timely death of their only son and heir, Walter. Ailred, Abbot of Rieval, likewise founded by the above Walter de Espec, says he was of a giant-like stature, prudent in council, discreet in war, a trusty friend, and a loyal subject. He endowed this monastery with divers lands and tythes, and among other things with the tythes of venison and of all fowl taken in and about his rivers : he likewise granted them the tenth penny or tythe of the rents of his lands in Northumberland. In the year 1261, William de Roos granted to the prior and convent of Kirkham, and their successors, in lieu of the tythes of his hunting, three good wild beasts, and the rent of five pounds per annum, for which consideration the said canons did quit their claim of free cljase in Hamlake. Kirkham Priory was situated in a charming valley, close to the noble river Derwent, one mile from Whitewell, in 78 MONASTIC REMAINS the high road from York to Scarborough, and twelve miles from the former. The beautiful gate belonging to this priory is in so perfect a state as to have the statues still remaining in the niches (the principal whereof is an oval one containing the Virgin and Child), and several shields of arms. Behind the gate are some vaulted arches of the founda- tion ; and in the garden, formed on the site of the priory, is one very curious fragment of the cloister, still in entire preservation. These are all the remains, except an arch belonging to the church standing isolated at a small distance. — In front of the gate is a broken cross. This View was taken September 19, 1789. AND ANCIENT CASTLES. 79 FLINT CASTLE, FLINTSHIRE. This castle, though generally reckoned amongst those erected by King Edward L to curb the Welch, was in reality begun by Henry II. and finished by Edward. Among the remarkable occurrences transacted in Flint Castle, the most important was the seizure of King Richard II. who here fell into the hands of his cousin, the Duke of Lancaster, afterwards Henry IV. This event laid the foundation of the future disputes between the houses of York and Lancaster ; of the meeting a curious account is detailed by Mr. Pennant. From this period nothing very singular is related until the Civil Wars, when, after being closely besieged by Sir William Brereton and Sir Thomas Middleton, in 1643, it surrendered upon honourable terms. Some time after, it fell into the hands of the Royalists ; but, on the failure of that interest, was dismantled, with the other Welch castles, by order of the Commons, in 1647. On the Restoration, it was resumed by the Crown, and a governor is still ap- pointed. Owen Salisbury Brereton, Esq. at present holds that office. 80 MONASTIC REMAINS This castle, notwithstanding the depredations it has sustained from the ravages of time, still retains an awful appearance ; the masonry is deeply worn, and eaten through by the bleakness of its situation, the castle being built on a low rock, close to the sea-shore ; the shape was square, its area comprising nearly an acre of ground. Towards the river is the lofty round tower, represented in the annexed plate, from whence, at a distance, are seen fur- naces emitting vast columns of smoke. At the west angle are the remains of a huge round tower, detached from the connecting walls, but (what is rather unusual) built in a hollow. Flint Castle is not perceptible at a distance on the land side, being nearly on a level with the water. This View zws taken August 22, 179K LIMDjLOW C AS TJLE, . LonJon.PuJbKthcd tylorwrnan * C° 1S1L. AND ANCIENT CASTLES. 81 LUDLOW CASTLE, SHROPSHIRE, Was built by Roger de Montgomery soon after the Conquest : whose son joining Robert de Courthose against King Henry I. that monarch seized his castle. It was besieged by King Stephen, who is supposed to have taken it 1 139, when Gervase Pagnel held the same for the Em- press Maud. During this siege, Prince Henry, son of David King of Scots, was lifted from his horse by some grappling engine, from which danger Stephen delivered him with singular courage. In 1264 (during Henry II.'s disputes with his barons) it was taken by Simon de Mont- fort, Earl of Leicester. This was the residence of Arthur, eldest son of Henry VII. who died here, at the age of sixteen, in 1502. The court of the Marches of Wales, instituted in the reign of King Henry VIII. was held in this castle, where the Lord President generally resided ; which office, in 1 634, was occupied by the Earl of Bridgewater, when Milton's masque of Comus was here performed. In the Civil Wars it was garrisoned for Charles I. but in 1646 sur- rendered to the Parliament. VOL. I. g 82 MONASTIC REMAINS The town of Ludlow is noted for its pleasant situation and cleanliness, but more distinguished by the ruins of its magnificent castle, situated at the north-west angle thereof, upon a rock, commanding a delightful prospect, and a long narrow bridge terminated by a fine wood. The venerable height and strength of the walls and towers, outwardly still perfect and upright, continually presenting new forms to the beholder as he passes, excite a mingled sentiment of admiration and solemn regret. Some parts have been repaired, and still afford lodging for a family. The inside is very spacious, and some of it is used as a tennis court, for which by its great proportion it is admirably adapted. A very curious building stands by itself, of a circular form, the ornaments of which are Saxon, and very perfect : one small door in the wall is remarkable, being solely made of thin flaky stone, rivetted on each side with plates of iron, requiring great strength to open it. On the north side of the town there was a celebrated priory, but very little remains of it at present. This View was taken September 1 1, 1787. AND ANCIENT CASTLES, 83 TUNBRIDGE CASTLE, KENT, According to Camden, was built about the time of William Rufus, by Richard de Clare, who had it by exchange, for Briony, in Normandy. About the latter place there was a contest of long duration, which was at length compromised by Richard de Clare's acceptance of the town of Tunbridge in England ; on which occasion the Lowy of Briony was measured about with a line, and an equal quantity of ground was exchanged, the admeasurement being made with the same line. How the estate became the property of the Archbishops of Canterbury is not known; but his successors, Earls of Glocester, held the manor of Tunbridge of them, under condition that they should be stewards at the installation of the Archbishops, and should grant them the wardship of their children. Mr. King, in his Observations on Ancient Castles, gives a most curious and minute description of this ruin. The principal part now remaining, viz. the great tower of entrance, he says, appears manifestly, from the style of its ornaments, to have been erected either in the 84 MONASTIC REMAINS time of King John, or, at least, in the very beginning of the reign of Henry III. In 1263 Henry III. besieged Tunbridge Castle, and forced it to surrender at discretion. Herein was found the Countess of Glocester ; from whence, says Philipot, in his Survey of Kent, it may be inferred, that in those times it was esteemed if not the only, at least a principal mansion of those great lords of Tunbridge, the Earls of Glocester. This view represents the inner front : both were de- fended by enormous portcullises and machicolations, and between these was a double pair of strong gates. The round towers flanking this entrance have loops ; those in the inner front are of larger dimensions, being less exposed to the assaults of an enemy. This castle belongs to Mr. Hooker, whose garden and bowling-green occupy the inner area, bounded by the river. The keep is reduced to a mere circular wall, inclosing a group of tall fir trees. Tunbridge Castle is a fine object at a distance, particularly from the road to the Wells. This View was taken September , 1784. / AND AN G TENT CASTLES. 85 BUILDWAS ABBEY, SHROPSHIRE, Built in 1135 by Roger de Clinton, Bishop of Co- ventry and Litchfield, to the honor of St. Mary and St. Chad, for monks of the order of Savigny, united after- wards to the Cistertians. King Stephen in the third year of his reign, A. D. 1139, confirmed this foundation, and further granted to them several immunities and pri vileges. Hugh Nonant, or Novant, a Norman. Bishop of Co- ventry, gave to these monks an inn in the city of Litch- field, for their reception when they went thither. Walter de Dunstanville, Robert Corbet, and Alan de Zouche, were benefactors : the latter gave them the town of Upton. At the Dissolution, here were twelve monks. The site, with all the lands belonging to this monastery in Shropshire, Staffordshire, and Derbyshire, were granted to Edward Lord Powis, 29th Henry VIII. This abbey is delightfully situated on the bank of the Severn in Coalbrook Dale, two miles from the iron bridge. The church was built in the form of a cross; some- 86 MONASTIC REMAINS thing of the tower and transept still remain, but the pecu- liar beauty of the building consists in the massive pillars of the nave, with handsome pointed arches ; the capitals are in the Saxon style ; the strength of these arches appears much greater than was necessary for the support of a church of the dimensions of Buildwas. This view repre- sents the west end, obscured by a thick cluster of ivy : connected therewith, by a wall, is a rich door-way, which probably belonged to some of the apartments of the monastery. Near the opposite end of the church is a house inhabited by Mr. Wilkinson; the intermediate space is occupied by the garden, to which this ruin is a pleasing accompaniment. The river Severn, between this place and the iron bridge, bounded by fine rocks, enriched by wood and herbage on one side, and hills opposite, with a road by the water side, presents most beautiful scenery. This View was taken September 22, 1789. AND ANCIENT CASTLES. 87 E WEN NY PRIORY, GLAMORGANSHIRE. At what period this priory, which was of the Bene- dictine Order, and dedicated to St. Michael, was first erected, we are not informed by either Dugdale, Tanner, or other writers on Monastic subjects; however, as early as A. D. 1141, it was, by Maurice de Londres, made a cell to the abbey of St. Peter's at Gloucester. The family of the Turbervilles were great benefactors to Ewenny Priory. One of this family, named Gilbert, directed that wheresoever he should die, his body should be interred in this church ; and appointed also, that it should be the bury- ing-place of his descendants. At the time of the dissolu- tion of the abbey of Gloucester, this priory came into the hands of the Crown, being then inhabited by only three monks, as appears by a manuscript in Bennet College Library, Cambridge. Its revenues were yearly 78l. 8d. in the whole, and 59l. 4s. clear. In the 37th Henry VIII. it was granted as part of the possessions of St. Peter, Gloucester, to Edward Carn, in fee. Ewenny Priory is about five miles from Cowbridge ; the church is of Saxon architecture, built in the form of a 88 MONASTIC REMAINS cross, and both nave and transept are still in a very per- fect state; the tower broad, low, and embattled, corre- sponds with the other parts of the building, which is of a style peculiarly heavy ; on which account a remarkable darkness and gloom are observable within. In the church is a mutilated monument of Paganus de Turberville, who according to vulgar tradition was the benefactor before spoken of. Near the church is an ancient man- sion, which, together with the priory, has been diffi- cult of access, by reason of the surrounding walls, moat, &c. One mile from hence, in a pleasant retired situation, on the margin of the river Ogmore, stand the desolated remains of the castle of that name, once the residence of the original founder of the priory here delineated. This View zoas taken August 31, 1788. AND ANCIENT CASTLES. 89 BAYHAM ABBEY, SUSSEX. This was formerly called Begeliam, or Benlin, and belonged to the Premonstratensian Order, and was first founded at Otteham, in Kent, by Ralph de Dena, and Robert de Dena, his son: who endowed it with lands in the reign of King Henry II. confirmed by Ela de Sack- ville, daughter of Ralph de Dena, and widow of Jordan de Sackville, lord of the manor of Buckhurst, in this county. Soon after this, Robert de Turnham gave the whole lordship of Begeham, and all his lands in Brokely, and divers other places, in pure and perpetual Frankal- moigne, to the canons of Brokely, to found an abbey in a part of it called Beaulieu. These canons having incorporated themselves with those of Otteham, removed hither in the reign of King John ; the extreme poverty of the latter being assigned as the reason. Walkelin de Maimenot, and Richard, Earl of Clare and Hereford, were also benefactors to this abbey. Bayham was dedicated to the Blessed Virgin, and was one of the smaller monasteries which Cardinal Wolsey ob- tained for the endowment of his colleges, nth Henry VIII. 90 MONASTIC REMAINS This abbey is about six miles from Tunbridge Wells, its situation very retired and woody, on a point of land in- closed between two branches of the river Tun. The re- mains of the abbey church stand in the garden of the Pratt family, who take the title of Viscount from hence, and whose mansion is contiguous. Two arches, one obscured by ivy, with a lofty fragment on the opposite side, are the only parts now in existence of the nave, but the transept is more perfect. It certainly has been a noble church, and notwithstanding the regu- larity of the garden walks, the ruins lose little of their ef- fect; the shrubs, flowers, and fruit-trees, scattered about, have a pleasing appearance, with here and there the remains of an abbot's tomb, heightening the impression of such a scene on the contemplative mind. This Plate exhibits a general view from the north-east through the broken parts ; the fine pillars which sup- ported the tower, with the variety of arches, and a broken winding staircase, will convey some idea of the present remains of this Abbey. An ash-tree of surprising dimen- sions, and great antiquity (now hollow), stands near these ruins. This View was taken October, 1784. AND ANCIENT CASTLES. 91 KIDWELLY CASTLE, CAERMARTHENSHIRE. This castle is about eight miles from Caermarthen, and is situated on a steep bank of the river Towy, to the east of Tenby Bay. It was built by Maurice de Londres, one of the twelve knights who conquered Glamorganshire, and had for his share the castle and manor of Ogmore : he, after a tedious war, made himself master of Kidwelly. This castle was destroyed by Cadogan ap Blethyn, but was rebuilt 1190 by Rhys, Prince of South Wales; it was again demolished 1215, but having been once more re- edified, fell to the crown, after various revolutions, and was granted by King Henry VII. to Sir Rice ap Thomas, Knight of the Garter, whose grandson forfeiting the same, it was bestowed on Richard Vaughan, Earl of Carbery, Lord President of Wales. Kidwelly Castle, from whatever point it is viewed, pre- sents a delightful subject for the pencil ; the exterior parts are still in a perfect state, and its situation is equally calculated for a strong hold, or a pleasant habitation. The river on the east, and a deep moat on the north side, have protected it. The grand entrance faces the south, 92 MONASTIC REMAINS presenting a formidable aspect, from its solemn appear- ance between heavy round towers; the angles are termi- nated by smaller, but similar ones; on the side near the river is a large projecting building, wherein was the cha- pel, from the foundation of which this view is taken, the distance being bounded by the church and part of the town. The church of Kidwelly is a beautiful object ; its elegant lofty spire, antique appearance, and handsome architec- ture, render it peculiarly interesting. One tower of the castle looking down upon the river has its roof remaining, from whence the prospect of vessels gliding past with the rapid tide is highly enlivening to the scene. This View was taken August 29, 1788. AND ANCIENT CASTLES. 98 OYSTERMOUTH CASTLE, GLAMORGANSHIRE, Is situated at the south-western extremity of the beautiful Bay of Swansea, about a quarter of a mile from the Mumble Light-house rock, which terminates the Point; it is built on a rising ground, and its position is well chosen. The site, considering that the edifice was built long before the invention of gunpowder, is com- manding, and formidable. This castle is not now more than three or four hundred paces distant from high water mark, although formerly it was probably much more inland, as, even within the memory of man, the sea has made very considerable encroachments on the shores of the Bay. The foundation of this castle has been generally attributed, with that of others in the neighbourhood, to Robert Fitzhammon, and his knights, the circumstance of whose introduction into South Wales may not be thought irrelevant to the present subject. Jocelyn-ap-Gwynat, Lord of Glamorgan, having re- belled with three other chiefs against Rhys-ap-Tudwr, Prince of South Wales, A. D. 1090, to give greater firmness to the union, Jestyn promised to Einion, one of 94 MONASTIC REMAINS the three, his daughter in marriage, on condition that he should procure the assistance of the Normans in the prosecution of the war against Rhys. Robert Fitzham- mon, a Norman Baron, was applied to, who, in conse- quence of this invitation, invaded South Wales, and laid the country waste ; Rhys, at the advanced age of ninety, met the rebels and their foreign assistants on the Black Mountain, near Brecon, where he was slain. Jestyn, elated with success, kept his engagements with the Nor- mans, but neglected to fulfil his promise to Einion, whom he treated with insult and derision. Einion, pro- voked at his ingratitude, hasted after the Normans to the sea shore, and found them already embarked. He waved his mantle in the air, as a signal of recal, which they obeyed; and Fitzhammon, having heard his complaints, mustered his forces, and marched against Jestyn, whom he deprived of his life and possessions. He then di- vided the lands among his twelve adherents, reserving to himself the sovereignty of the whole; leaving the rough and barren mountainous tracts to Einion. A dominion thus acquired was necessarily to be maintained by power, and Oystermouth was among the number of the castles built for the purpose of awing the people of the country. In the manner above related were the Lords Marches established in Wales. Oystermouth Castle does not cover an extensive tract of ground, not more, perhaps, than an acre, and appears, from its remains, to have combined the purposes of a AND ANCIENT CASTLES. 95 baronial residence with those of a defensive retreat. The subterraneous vaults are very entire, and well worth ex- ploring. The keep is of a square form, as is usual, in castles of Norman construction, and a gallery of com- munication, lined with loop-holes, joining the two small courts, into which it seems to have been divided, is in excellent preservation, and affords a good specimen of ancient military contrivance. Considerable vestiges of apartments, or barrack rooms, appear all round the castle. It is rather remarkable, that the walls, which are of a pentangular form, should be destitute of projections for their protection in flank, with the exception of two round towers, which stood at the gateway: the former existence of these is indicated only by two hollows in the wall, which formed the back part of them, and the remains of their foundation. This dilapidation has con- siderably injured the picturesque effect of the building. A considerable quantity of ivy covers the exterior walls; perhaps in this respect they are rather too exuberant, as the only part of them unshrouded by it is the south- west angle. The views from the time-worn battlements of Oystermouth are peculiarly extensive : they comprise, on the one hand, the Mumble rocks, village, and light- house; the whole of Swansea Bay, with its eastern boundaries, the mountains above Morgan and Aberavon, ending with the Sker Point; the distant shores of Somer- set and Devon terminate the prospect in a southerly di- rection across the Channel. The mouldering walls of the 96 MONASTIC REMAINS castle, and its surrounding scenery, have an effect in- discribably beautiful on a fine sun-set evening ; and a fervid imagination is then led to indulge itself, and to conjure up that sort of imagery so well expressed by a modern poet: Day set upon the castled steep; The battled towers, the donjon keep, The loop-hole grates where captives weep, The flanking walls that round it sweep, In yellow lustre shone. The warriors on the turrets high, Moving athwart the evening sky, Seem'd forms of giant height; Their armour, as it caught the rays, Flash'd back again the western blaze, In lines of dazzling light. AND ANCIENT CASTLES. 97 RAGLAND CASTLE, MONMOUTHSHIRE. This castle is supposed to be of no greater antiquity than about the time of King Henry VII. but its strength and size have been equal to those of most of our ancient fortresses, and very considerable and magnificent remains are yet standing ; it is situated in a rich country, eight miles from Monmouth. " This castle, once the seat of the Somersets, came into u that noble family, with the title of Lord Herbert, in u the reign of King Henry VII. by Charles Somerset's u marrying the daughter and heiress of William Herbert, " Earl of Huntingdon. Henry Somerset, Earl of Wor- " cester (and afterwards Marquis), held out this castle in " a gallant and remarkable manner for King Charles I. ;